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diff --git a/42680-0.txt b/42680-0.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..65629ef --- /dev/null +++ b/42680-0.txt @@ -0,0 +1,33206 @@ +*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 42680 *** + +Transcriber's Note: + + Inconsistent hyphenation and spelling in the original document have + been preserved. Obvious typographical errors have been corrected. + + Italic text is denoted by _underscores_. + + The book uses both Phillippi and Phillipi. + + An upside-down T symbol is represented as [Symbol: upside-down T]. + + + + + [Illustration: Harris Newmark] + + + + + SIXTY YEARS + IN + SOUTHERN CALIFORNIA + + 1853-1913 + + CONTAINING THE REMINISCENCES OF + HARRIS NEWMARK + + EDITED BY + MAURICE H. NEWMARK + MARCO R. NEWMARK + + Every generation enjoys the use of a vast hoard bequeathed + to it by antiquity, and transmits that hoard, augmented by + fresh acquisitions, to future ages. In these pursuits, therefore, + the first speculators lie under great disadvantages, and, even + when they fail, are entitled to praise.--MACAULAY. + + _WITH 150 ILLUSTRATIONS_ + + + NEW YORK + The Knickerbocker Press + 1916 + + + + + COPYRIGHT, 1916 + BY + M. H. AND M. R. NEWMARK + + + + + To + THE MEMORY OF + MY WIFE + + + + +In Memoriam + + +At the hour of high twelve on April the fourth, 1916, the sun shone +into a room where lay the temporal abode, for eighty-one years and +more, of the spirit of Harris Newmark. On his face still lingered that +look of peace which betokens a life worthily used and gently +relinquished. + +Many were the duties allotted him in his pilgrimage; splendidly did he +accomplish them! Providence permitted him the completion of his final +task--a labor of love--but denied him the privilege of seeing it given +to the community of his adoption. + +To him and to her, by whose side he sleeps, may it be both monument +and epitaph. + +_Thy will be done!_ + + M. H. N. + M. R. N. + + + + +INTRODUCTION + + +Several times during his latter years my friend, Charles Dwight +Willard, urged me to write out my recollections of the five or six +decades I had already passed in Los Angeles, expressing his regret +that many pioneers had carried from this world so much that might have +been of interest to both the Angeleño of the present and the future +historian of Southern California; but as I had always led an active +life of business or travel, and had neither fitted myself for any sort +of literary undertaking nor attempted one, I gave scant attention to +the proposal. Mr. Willard's persistency, however, together with the +prospect of coöperation offered me by my sons, finally overcame my +reluctance and I determined to commence the work. + +Accordingly in June, 1913, at my Santa Monica home, I began to devote +a few hours each day to a more or less fragmentary enumeration of the +incidents of my boyhood; of my voyage over the great wastes of sea and +land between my ancestral and adopted homes; of the pueblo and its +surroundings that I found on this Western shore; of its people and +their customs; and, finally, of the men and women who, from then until +now, have contributed to the greatness of the Southland, and of the +things they have done or said to entitle their names to be recorded. +This task I finished in the early fall. During its progress I entered +more and more into the distant Past, until Memory conjured before me +many long-forgotten faces and happenings. In the end, I found that I +had jotted down a mass of notes much greater than I had expected. + +Thereupon the Editors began their duties, which were to arrange the +materials at hand, to supply names and dates that had escaped me, and +to interview many who had been principals in events and, accordingly, +were presumed to know the details; and much progress was made, to the +enlarging and enrichment of the book. But it was not long before they +found that the work involved an amount of investigation which their +limited time would not permit; and that if carried out on even the +modest plan originally contemplated, some additional assistance would +be required. + +Fortunately, just then they met Perry Worden, a post-graduate of +Columbia and a Doctor of Philosophy of the University of Halle, +Germany; a scholar and an author of attainments. His aid, as +investigator and adviser, has been indispensable to the completion of +the work in its present form. Dr. Worden spent many months searching +the newspapers, magazines and books--some of whose titles find special +mention in the text--which deal with Southern California and its past; +and he also interviewed many pioneers, to each of whom I owe +acknowledgment for ready and friendly coöperation. In short, no pains +was spared to confirm and amplify all the facts and narratives. + +Whether to arrange the matter chronologically or not, was a problem +impossible of solution to the complete satisfaction of the Editors; +this, as well as other methods, having its advantages and +disadvantages. After mature consideration, the chronological plan was +adopted, and the events of each year have been recorded more or less +in the order of their happening. Whatever confusion, if any, may arise +through this treatment of local history as a chronicle for ready +reference will be easily overcome, it is believed, through the dating +of the chapters and the provision of a comprehensive index; while the +brief chapter-heading, generally a reference to some marked occurrence +in that period, will further assist the reader to get his bearings. +Preference has been given to the first thirty years of my residence in +Los Angeles, both on account of my affectionate remembrance of that +time and because of the peculiarity of memory in advanced life which +enables us to recall remote events when more recent ones are +forgotten; and inasmuch as so little has been handed down from the +days of the adobe, this partiality will probably find favor. + +In collecting this mass of data, many discrepancies were met with, +calling for the acceptance or rejection of much long current here as +fact; and in all such cases I selected the version most closely +corresponding with my own recollection, or that seemed to me, in the +light of other facts, to be correct. For this reason, no less than +because in my narrative of hitherto unrecorded events and +personalities it would be miraculous if errors have not found their +way into the story, I shall be grateful if those who discover +inaccuracies will report them to me. In these sixty years, also, I +have met many men and women worthy of recollection, and it is certain +that there are some whose names I have not mentioned; if so, I wish to +disclaim any intentional neglect. Indeed, precisely as I have +introduced the names of a number for whom I have had no personal +liking, but whose services to the community I remember with respect, +so there are doubtless others whose activities, past or present, it +would afford me keen pleasure to note, but whom unhappily I have +overlooked. + +With this brief introduction, I give the manuscript to the printer, +not with the ambitious hope of enriching literature in any respect, +but not without confidence that I have provided some new material for +the local historian--perhaps of the future--and that there may be a +goodly number of people sufficiently interested to read and enjoy the +story, yet indulgent enough to overlook the many faults in its +narration. + + H. N. + + LOS ANGELES, + _December 31, 1915_. + + + + +FOREWORD + + +The Historian no longer writes History by warming over the pancakes of +his predecessors. He must surely know what they have done, and +how--and whereby they succeeded and wherein they failed. But his own +labor is to find the sidelights they did not have. Macaulay saves him +from doing again all the research that Macaulay had to do; but if he +could find a twin Boswell or a second Pepys he would rather have +either than a dozen new Macaulays. Since history is becoming really a +Science, and is no more a closet exploration of half-digested +arm-chair books, we are beginning to learn the overwhelming value of +the contemporary witness. Even a justice's court will not admit +Hearsay Evidence; and Science has been shamed into adopting the same +sane rule. Nowadays it demands the eye-witness. We look less for the +"Authorities" now, and more for the Documents. There are too many +histories already, such as they are--self-satisfied and oracular, but +not one conclusive. Every history is put out of date, almost daily, by +the discovery of some scrap of paper or some clay tablet from under +the ashes of Babylon. + +Mere Humans no longer read History--except in school where they have +to, or in study clubs where it is also Required. But a plain personal +narrative is interesting now as it has been for five thousand years. +The world's greatest book is of course compulsory; but what is the +_interesting_ part of it? Why, the stories--Adam and Eve; Abraham, +Isaac and Jacob; Saul and David and Samson and Delilah; Solomon, Job, +and Jesus the Christ! And if anyone thinks Moses worked-in a little +too much of the Family Tree--he doesn't know what biblical archæology +is doing. For it is thanks to these same "petty" details that modern +Science, in its excavations and decipherings, has verified the Bible +and resolved many of its riddles! + +Greece had one Herodotus. America had _four_, antedating the year +1600. All these truly great historians built from all the "sources" +they could find. But none of them quite give us the homely, vital +picture of life and feeling that one untaught and untamed soldier, +Bernal Diaz, wrote for us three hundred years ago when he was past +ninety, and toothless--and angry "because the historians didn't get it +straight." The student of Spanish America has often to wish there had +been a Bernal Diaz for every decade and every province from 1492 to +1800. His unstudied gossip about the conquest of Mexico is less +balanced and less authoritative, but far more illuminative, than the +classics of his leader, Cortez--a university man, as well as a great +conqueror. + +For more than a quarter of a century it was one of my duties to study +and review (for the _Nation_ and other critical journals) all sorts of +local chronicles all over Spanish and English America--particularly of +frontier times. In this work I have read searchingly many hundreds of +volumes; and have been brought into close contact with our greatest +students and editors of "History-Material," and with their standards. + +I have read no other such book with so unflagging interest and content +as these memoirs of Harris Newmark. My personal acquaintance with +Southern California for more than thirty years may color my interest +in names and incidents; but I am appraising this book (whose proofs I +have been permitted to read thoroughly) from the standpoint of the +student of history anywhere. Parkman and Fiske and Coues and Hodge and +Thwaites would join me in the wish that every American community might +have so competent a memorandum of its life and customs and growth, for +its most formative half-century. + +This is _not_ a history. It is two other much more necessary +things--for there is no such thing as a real History of Los Angeles, +and cannot be for years. These are the frank, naïve, conversational +memoirs of a man who for more than sixty years could say of Southern +California almost as truly as Æneas of his own time--"All of which I +saw, much of which I was." The keen observation, the dry humor, the +fireside intimacy of the talk, the equity and accuracy of memory and +judgment--all these make it a book which will be much more valued by +future generations of readers and students. We are rather too near to +it now. + +But it is more than the "confessions" of one ripe and noble +experience. It is, beyond any reasonable comparison, the most +characteristic and accurate composite picture we have ever had of an +old, brave, human, free, and distinctive life that has changed +incredibly to the veneers of modern society. It is the very mirror of +who and what the people were that laid the real foundations for a +community which is now the wonder of the historian. The very details +which are "not Big enough" for the casual reader (mentally over-tuned +to newspaper headlines and moving pictures) are the vital and enduring +merits of this unpretentious volume. No one else has ever set down so +many of the very things that the final historian of Los Angeles will +search for, a hundred years after all our oratories and "literary +efforts" have been well forgotten. It is a chronicle indispensable for +every public library, every reference library, the shelf of every +individual concerned with the story of California. + +It is the _Pepys's Diary_ of Los Angeles and its tributary domain. + + CHARLES F. LUMMIS. + + + + +PREFACE + + +The Editors wish to acknowledge the coöperation given, from time to +time, by many whose names, already mentioned in the text, are not +repeated here, and in particular to Drs. Leo Newmark and Charles F. +Lummis, and Joseph P. and Edwin J. Loeb, for having read the proofs. +They also wish to acknowledge Dr. Lummis's self-imposed task of +preparing the generous foreword with which this volume has been +favored. Gratitude is also due to various friends who have so kindly +permitted the use of photographs--not a few of which, never before +published, are rare and difficult to obtain. Just as in the case, +however, of those who deserve mention in these memoirs, but have been +overlooked, so it is feared that there are some who have supplied +information and yet have been forgotten. To all such, as well as to +several librarians and the following, thanks are hereby expressed: +Frederick Baker, Horace Baker, Mrs. J. A. Barrows, Prospero Barrows, +Mrs. R. C. Bartow, Miss Anna McConnell Beckley, Sigmund Beel, Samuel +Behrendt, Arthur S. Bent, Mrs. Dora Bilderback, C. V. Boquist, Mrs. +Mary Bowman, Allan Bromley, Professor Valentin Buehner, Dr. Rose +Bullard, J. O. Burns, Malcolm Campbell, Gabe Carroll, J. W. Carson, +Walter M. Castle, R. B. Chapman, J. H. Clancy, Herman Cohn, Miss +Gertrude Darlow, Ernest Dawson and Dawson's Bookshop, Louise Deen, +George E. Dimitry, Robert Dominguez, Durell Draper, Miss Marjorie +Driscoll, S. D. Dunann, Gottlieb Eckbahl, Richard Egan, Professor +Alfred Ewington, David P. Fleming, James G. Fowler, Miss Effie +Josephine Fussell, A. P. Gibson, J. Sherman Glasscock, Gilbert H. +Grosvenor, Edgar J. Hartung, Chauncey Hayes, George H. Higbee, Joseph +Hopper, Adelbert Hornung, Walter Hotz, F. A. Howe, Dr. Clarence +Edward Ide, Luther Ingersoll, C. W. Jones, Mrs. Eleanor Brodie Jones, +Reverend Henderson Judd, D. P. Kellogg, C. G. Keyes, Willis T. +Knowlton, Bradner Lee, Jr., H. J. Lelande, Isaac Levy, Miss Ella +Housefield Lowe, Mrs. Celeste Manning, Mrs. Morris Meyberg, Miss +Louisa Meyer, William Meying, Charles E. Mitchell, R. C. Neuendorffer, +S. B. Norton, B. H. Prentice, Burr Price, Edward H. Quimby, B. B. +Rich, Edward I. Robinson, W. J. Rouse, Paul P. Royere, Louis +Sainsevain, Ludwig Schiff, R. D. Sepúlveda, Calvin Luther Severy, Miss +Emily R. Smith, Miss Harriet Steele, George F. Strobridge, Father +Eugene Sugranes, Mrs. Carrie Switzer, Walter P. Temple, W. I. Turck, +Judge and Mrs. E. P. Unangst, William M. Van Dyke, August Wackerbarth, +Mrs. J. T. Ward, Mrs. Olive E. Weston, Professor A. C. Wheat and +Charles L. Wilde. + + + + +CONTENTS + + + PAGE + + IN MEMORIAM v + + INTRODUCTION vii + + FOREWORD xi + + PREFACE xv + + + CHAPTER + + I.--CHILDHOOD AND YOUTH, 1834-1853 1 + + II.--WESTWARD, HO! 1853 6 + + III.--NEW YORK--NICARAGUA--THE GOLDEN GATE, 1853 14 + + IV.--FIRST ADVENTURES IN LOS ANGELES, 1853 27 + + V.--LAWYERS AND COURTS, 1853 45 + + VI.--MERCHANTS AND SHOPS, 1853 60 + + VII.--IN AND NEAR THE OLD PUEBLO, 1853 80 + + VIII.--ROUND ABOUT THE PLAZA, 1853-1854 97 + + IX.--FAMILIAR HOME-SCENES, 1854 112 + + X.--EARLY SOCIAL LIFE, 1854 128 + + XI.--THE RUSH FOR GOLD, 1855 146 + + XII.--THE GREAT HORSE RACE, 1855 157 + + XIII.--PRINCELY _RANCHO_ DOMAINS, 1855 166 + + XIV.--ORCHARDS AND VINEYARDS, 1856 189 + + XV.--SHERIFF BARTON AND THE _BANDIDOS_, 1857 204 + + XVI.--MARRIAGE--THE BUTTERFIELD STAGES, 1858 220 + + XVII.--ADMISSION TO CITIZENSHIP, 1859 240 + + XVIII.--FIRST EXPERIENCE WITH THE TELEGRAPH, 1860 260 + + XIX.--STEAM-WAGON--ODD CHARACTERS, 1860 274 + + XX.--THE RUMBLINGS OF WAR, 1861 289 + + XXI.--HANCOCK--LADY FRANKLIN--THE DELUGE, 1861 299 + + XXII.--DROUGHTS--THE _ADA HANCOCK_ DISASTER, + 1862-1863 310 + + XXIII.--ASSASSINATION OF LINCOLN, 1864-1865 328 + + XXIV.--H. NEWMARK & COMPANY--CARLISLE-KING DUEL, + 1865-1866 342 + + XXV.--REMOVAL TO NEW YORK, AND RETURN, 1867-1868 359 + + XXVI.--THE CERRO GORDO MINES, 1869 379 + + XXVII.--COMING OF THE IRON HORSE, 1869 393 + + XXVIII.--THE LAST OF THE VIGILANTES, 1870 408 + + XXIX.--THE CHINESE MASSACRE, 1871 421 + + XXX.--THE WOOL CRAZE, 1872-1873 437 + + XXXI.--THE END OF VASQUEZ, 1874 452 + + XXXII.--THE SANTA ANITA _RANCHO_, 1875 472 + + XXXIII.--LOS ANGELES & INDEPENDENCE RAILROAD, 1876 485 + + XXXIV.--THE SOUTHERN PACIFIC, 1876 496 + + XXXV.--THE REVIVAL OF THE SOUTHLAND, 1877-1880 509 + + XXXVI.--CENTENARY OF THE CITY--ELECTRIC LIGHT, + 1881-1884 525 + + XXXVII.--REPETTO AND THE LAWYERS, 1885-1887 546 + + XXXVIII.--THE GREAT BOOM, 1887 564 + + XXXIX.--PROPOSED STATE DIVISION, 1888-1891 588 + + XL.--THE FIRST _FIESTAS_, 1892-1897 602 + + XLI.--THE SOUTHWEST ARCHÆOLOGICAL SOCIETY, + 1898-1905 616 + + XLII.--THE SAN FRANCISCO EARTHQUAKE, 1906-1910 633 + + XLIII.--RETROSPECTION, 1910-1913 641 + + INDEX 653 + + + + +ILLUSTRATIONS + + + FACING + PAGE + + HARRIS NEWMARK. IN HIS SEVENTY-NINTH YEAR + Engraved from a photograph _Frontispiece_ + + FACSIMILE OF A PART OF THE MS 2 + + REPRODUCTION OF SWEDISH ADVERTISEMENT 3 + + PHILIPP NEUMARK 10 + From a Daguerreotype + + ESTHER NEUMARK 10 + From a Daguerreotype + + J. P. NEWMARK 10 + From a Daguerreotype + + MR. AND MRS. JOSEPH NEWMARK 10 + + LOS ANGELES IN THE EARLY FIFTIES 11 + From a drawing of the Pacific Railway Expedition + + BELLA UNION AS IT APPEARED IN 1858 26 + From a lithograph + + JOHN GOLLER'S BLACKSMITH SHOP 27 + From a lithograph of 1858 + + HENRY MELLUS 50 + From a Daguerreotype + + FRANCIS MELLUS 50 + From a Daguerreotype + + JOHN G. DOWNEY 50 + + CHARLES L. DUCOMMUN 50 + + THE PLAZA CHURCH 51 + From a photograph, probably taken in the middle + eighties + + PIO PICO 68 + From an oil portrait + + JUAN BANDINI 68 + + ABEL STEARNS 68 + + ISAAC WILLIAMS 68 + + STORE OF FELIPE RHEIM 69 + + JOHN JONES 102 + + CAPTAIN F. MORTON 102 + + CAPTAIN AND MRS. J. S. GARCIA 102 + + CAPTAIN SALISBURY HALEY 102 + + _El Palacio_, HOME OF ABEL AND ARCADIA STEARNS 103 + From a photograph of the seventies + + THE LUGO RANCH-HOUSE, IN THE NINETIES 103 + + J. P. NEWMARK 112 + From a vignette of the sixties + + JACOB RICH 112 + + O. W. CHILDS 112 + + JOHN O. WHEELER 112 + + BENJAMIN D. WILSON 113 + + GEORGE HANSEN 113 + + DR. OBED MACY 113 + + SAMUEL C. FOY 113 + + MYER J. AND HARRIS NEWMARK 128 + From a Daguerreotype + + GEORGE CARSON 128 + + JOHN G. NICHOLS 128 + + DAVID W. ALEXANDER 129 + + THOMAS E. ROWAN 129 + + MATTHEW KELLER 129 + + SAMUEL MEYER 129 + + LOUIS SAINSEVAIN 154 + + MANUEL DOMINGUEZ 154 + + _El Aliso_, THE SAINSEVAIN WINERY 154 + From an old lithograph + + JACOB ELIAS 155 + + JOHN T. LANFRANCO 155 + + J. FRANK BURNS 155 + + HENRY D. BARROWS 155 + + MAURICE KREMER 168 + + SOLOMON LAZARD 168 + + MELLUS'S, OR BELL'S ROW 168 + From a lithograph of 1858 + + WILLIAM H. WORKMAN AND JOHN KING 169 + + PRUDENT BEAUDRY 169 + + JAMES S. MALLARD 169 + + JOHN BEHN 169 + + LOUIS ROBIDOUX 174 + + JULIUS G. WEYSE 174 + + JOHN BEHN 174 + + LOUIS BREER 174 + + WILLIAM J. BRODRICK 175 + + ISAAC R. DUNKELBERGER 175 + + FRANK J. CARPENTER 175 + + AUGUSTUS ULYARD 175 + + LOS ANGELES IN THE LATE FIFTIES 188 + From a contemporary sketch + + MYER J. NEWMARK 189 + + EDWARD J. C. KEWEN 189 + + DR. JOHN S. GRIFFIN 189 + + WILLIAM C. WARREN 189 + + HARRIS NEWMARK, WHEN (ABOUT) THIRTY-FOUR YEARS OLD 224 + + SARAH NEWMARK, WHEN (ABOUT) TWENTY-FOUR YEARS OF AGE 224 + + FACSIMILE OF HARRIS AND SARAH NEWMARK'S WEDDING + INVITATION 225 + + SAN PEDRO STREET, NEAR SECOND, IN THE EARLY SEVENTIES 254 + + COMMERCIAL STREET, LOOKING EAST FROM MAIN, ABOUT 1870 254 + + VIEW OF PLAZA, SHOWING THE RESERVOIR 255 + + OLD LANFRANCO BLOCK 255 + + WINFIELD SCOTT HANCOCK 290 + + ALBERT SIDNEY JOHNSTON 290 + + LOS ANGELES COUNTY IN 1854 291 + From a contemporary map + + THE MORRIS ADOBE, ONCE FRÉMONT'S HEADQUARTERS 291 + + EUGENE MEYER 310 + + JACOB A. MOERENHOUT 310 + + FRANK LECOUVREUR 310 + + THOMAS D. MOTT 310 + + LEONARD J. ROSE 311 + + H. K. S. O'MELVENY 311 + + REMI NADEAU 311 + + JOHN M. GRIFFITH 311 + + KASPARE COHN 342 + + M. A. NEWMARK 342 + + H. NEWMARK & CO.'S STORE, ARCADIA BLOCK, ABOUT 1875, + INCLUDING (LEFT) JOHN JONES'S FORMER PREMISES 343 + + H. NEWMARK & CO.'S BUILDING, AMESTOY BLOCK, ABOUT + 1884 343 + + DR. TRUMAN H. ROSE 370 + + ANDREW GLASSELL 370 + + DR. VINCENT GELCICH 370 + + CHARLES E. MILES, IN UNIFORM OF 38'S 370 + + FACSIMILE OF STOCK CERTIFICATE, PIONEER OIL CO. 371 + + AMERICAN BAKERY, JAKE KUHRTS'S BUILDING, ABOUT 1880 371 + + LOEBAU MARKET PLACE, NEAR THE HOUSE IN WHICH + HARRIS NEWMARK WAS BORN 384 + + STREET IN LOEBAU, SHOWING (RIGHT) REMNANT OF ANCIENT + CITY WALL 384 + + ROBERT M. WIDNEY 385 + + DR. JOSEPH KURTZ 385 + + ISAAC N. VAN NUYS 385 + + ABRAHAM HAAS 385 + + PHINEAS BANNING, ABOUT 1869 400 + + HENRI PENELON, IN HIS STUDIO 400 + + _Carreta_, EARLIEST MODE OF TRANSPORTATION 401 + + ALAMEDA STREET DEPOT AND TRAIN, LOS ANGELES & SAN + PEDRO RAILROAD 401 + + HENRY C. G. SCHAEFFER 428 + + LORENZO LECK 428 + + HENRY HAMMEL 428 + + LOUIS MESMER 428 + + JOHN SCHUMACHER 428 + + WILLIAM NORDHOLT 428 + + TURNVEREIN-GERMANIA BUILDING, SPRING STREET 429 + + VASQUEZ AND HIS CAPTORS 452 + (_Top_) D. K. SMITH, + WILLIAM R. ROWLAND, + WALTER E. RODGERS. + (_Middle_) ALBERT JOHNSON, + GREEK GEORGE'S HOME, + G. A. BEERS. + (_Bottom_) EMIL HARRIS, + TIBÚRCIO VASQUEZ, + J. S. BRYANT. + + GREEK GEORGE 453 + + NICOLÁS MARTINEZ 453 + + BENJAMIN S. EATON 464 + + HENRY T. HAZARD 464 + + FORT STREET HOME, HARRIS NEWMARK, SITE OF BLANCHARD + HALL; JOSEPH NEWMARK AT THE DOOR 464 + + CALLE DE LOS NEGROS (NIGGER ALLEY), ABOUT 1870 465 + + SECOND STREET, LOOKING EAST FROM HILL STREET, EARLY + SEVENTIES 465 + + ROUND HOUSE, WITH MAIN STREET ENTRANCE 476 + + SPRING STREET ENTRANCE TO GARDEN OF PARADISE 476 + + TEMPLE STREET, LOOKING WEST FROM BROADWAY, ABOUT + 1870 477 + + PICO HOUSE, SOON AFTER COMPLETION 477 + + WILLIAM PRIDHAM 500 + + BENJAMIN HAYES 500 + + ISAAC LANKERSHIM 500 + + RABBI A. W. EDELMAN 500 + + FORT STREET, FROM THE CHAPARRAL ON FORT HILL 501 + + ANTONIO FRANCO AND MARIANA CORONEL 520 + From an oil painting in the Coronel Collection + + FOURTH STREET, LOOKING WEST FROM MAIN 520 + + TIMMS LANDING 521 + From a print of the late fifties + + SANTA CATALINA, IN THE MIDDLE EIGHTIES 521 + + MAIN STREET LOOKING NORTH FROM SIXTH, PROBABLY IN + THE LATE SEVENTIES 530 + + HIGH SCHOOL, ON POUND CAKE HILL, ABOUT 1873 530 + + TEMPLE COURT HOUSE, AFTER ABANDONMENT BY THE + COUNTY 531 + + FIRST STREET, LOOKING EAST FROM HILL 531 + + SPRING STREET, LOOKING NORTH FROM FIRST, ABOUT 1885 566 + + CABLE CAR, RUNNING NORTH ON BROADWAY (PREVIOUSLY + FORT STREET), NEAR SECOND 567 + + EARLY ELECTRIC CAR, WITH CONDUCTOR JAMES GALLAGHER + (STILL IN SERVICE) 567 + + GEORGE W. BURTON 594 + + BEN C. TRUMAN 594 + + CHARLES F. LUMMIS 594 + + CHARLES DWIGHT WILLARD 594 + + GRAND AVENUE RESIDENCE, HARRIS NEWMARK, 1889 595 + + ISAIAS W. HELLMAN 616 + + HERMAN W. HELLMAN 616 + + CAMERON E. THOM 616 + + YGNÁCIO SEPÚLVEDA 616 + + FIRST SANTA FÉ LOCOMOTIVE TO ENTER LOS ANGELES 617 + + MAIN STREET, LOOKING NORTH, SHOWING FIRST FEDERAL + BUILDING, MIDDLE NINETIES 617 + + HARRIS AND SARAH NEWMARK, AT TIME OF GOLDEN WEDDING 636 + + SUMMER HOME OF HARRIS NEWMARK, SANTA MONICA 637 + + HARRIS NEWMARK, AT THE DEDICATION OF M. A. NEWMARK + & CO.'S ESTABLISHMENT, 1912 644 + + J. P. NEWMARK, ABOUT 1890 644 + + HARRIS NEWMARK BREAKING GROUND FOR THE JEWISH + ORPHANS' HOME, NOVEMBER 28TH, 1911 645 + + + + + SIXTY YEARS + IN + SOUTHERN CALIFORNIA + + + + +Sixty Years in Southern California + + + + +CHAPTER I + +CHILDHOOD AND YOUTH + +1834-1853 + + +I was born in Loebau, West Prussia, on the 5th of July, 1834, the son +of Philipp and Esther, _née_ Meyer, Neumark; and I have reason to +believe that I was not a very welcome guest. My parents, who were +poor, already had five children, and the prospects of properly +supporting the sixth child were not bright. As I had put in an +appearance, however, and there was no alternative, I was admitted with +good grace into the family circle and, being the baby, soon became the +pet. + +My father was born in the ancient town of Neumark; and in his youth he +was apprenticed to a dealer in boots and shoes in a Russian village +through which Napoleon Bonaparte marched on his way to Moscow. The +conqueror sent to the shop for a pair of fur boots, and I have often +heard my father tell, with modest satisfaction, how, shortly before he +visited the great fair at Nijni Novgorod, he was selected to deliver +them; how more than one ambitious and inquisitive friend tried to +purchase the privilege of approaching the great man, and what were his +impressions of the warrior. When ushered into the august presence, he +found Bonaparte in one of his characteristic postures, standing +erect, in a meditative mood, braced against the wall, with one hand to +his forehead and the other behind his back, apparently absorbed in +deep and anxious thought. + +When I was but three weeks old, my father's business affairs called +him away from home, and compelled the sacrifice of a more or less +continued absence of eight and one half years. During this period my +mother's health was very poor. Unfortunately, also, my father was too +liberal and extravagantly-inclined for his narrow circumstances; and +not being equipped to meet the conditions of the district in which we +lived and our economical necessities, we were continually, so to +speak, in financial hot water. While he was absent, my father traveled +in Sweden and Denmark, remitting regularly to his family as much as +his means would permit, yet earning for them but a precarious living. +In 1842 he again joined his family in Loebau, making visits to Sweden +and Denmark during the summer seasons from 1843 until the middle +fifties and spending the long winters at home. Loebau was then, as +now, of little commercial importance, and until 1849, when I was +fifteen years of age and had my first introduction to the world, my +life was very commonplace and marked by little worthy of special +record, unless it was the commotion centering in the cobble-paved +market-place, as a result of the Revolution of 1848. + +With the winter of 1837 had come a change in my father's plans and +enterprises. Undergoing unusually severe weather in Scandinavia, he +listened to the lure of the New World and embarked for New York, +arriving there in the very hot summer of 1838. The contrast in +climatic conditions proved most disastrous; for, although life in the +new Republic seemed both pleasing and acceptable to one of his +temperament and liberal views, illness finally compelled him to bid +America adieu. + + [Illustration: Facsimile of a Part of the MS.] + + [Illustration: "Note.--The 'F' in the above announcement is the + abbreviation for Fabian, one of Philipp Neumark's given names, at + one time used in business, but seldom employed in social + correspondence, and finally abandoned altogether."] + +My father was engaged in the making of ink and blacking, neither of +which commodities was, at that time, in such universal demand as it is +now; and my brother, Joseph Philipp, later known as J. P. Newmark, +having some time before left Sweden, where he had been assisting +him, for England, it was agreed, in 1849, after a family council, that +I was old enough to accompany my father on his business trips, +gradually become acquainted with his affairs, and thus prepare to +succeed him. Accordingly, in April of that year, I left the family +hearth, endeared to me, unpretentious though it was, and wandered with +my father out into the world. Open confession, it is said, is good for +the soul; hence I must admit that the prospect of making such a trip +attracted me, notwithstanding the tender associations of home; and the +sorrow of parting from my mother was rather evenly balanced, in my +youthful mind, by the pleasurable anticipation of visiting new and +strange lands. + +Any attempt to compare methods of travel in 1849, even in the +countries I then traversed, with those now in vogue, would be somewhat +ridiculous. Country roads were generally poor--in fact, very bad; and +vehicles were worse, so that the entire first day's run brought us +only to Lessen, a small village but twelve miles from home! Here we +spent the night, because of the lack of better accommodations, in +blankets, on the floor of the wayside inn; and this experience was +such a disappointment, failing to realize, as it did, my youthful +anticipations, that I was desperately homesick and ready, at the first +opportunity, to return to my sorrowing mother. The Fates, however, +were against any such change in our plans; and the next morning we +proceeded on our way, arriving that evening at the much larger town of +Bromberg. Here, for the first time, the roads and other conditions +were better, and my spirits revived. + +Next day we left for Stettin, where we took passage for Ystad, a small +seaport in southern Sweden. Now our real troubles began; part of the +trip was arduous, and the low state of our finances permitted us +nothing better than exposed deck-quarters. This was particularly +trying, since the sea was rough, the weather tempestuous, and I both +seasick and longing for home; moreover, on arriving at Ystad, after a +voyage of twelve hours or more, the Health Officer came on board our +boat and notified us that, as cholera was epidemic in Prussia, we +were prohibited from landing! This filled me with mortal fear lest we +should be returned to Stettin under the same miserable conditions +through which we had just passed; but this state of mind had its +compensating influence, for my tears at the discouraging announcement +worked upon the charity of the uniformed officials, and, in a short +time, to my inexpressible delight, we were permitted to land. With a +natural alertness to observe anything new in my experience, I shall +never forget my first impressions of the ocean. There seemed no limit +to the expanse of stormy waters over which we were traveling; and this +fact alone added a touch of solemnity to my first venture from home. + +From Ystad we proceeded to Copenhagen, where my father had intimate +friends, especially in the Lachmann, Eichel and Ruben families, to +whose splendid hospitality and unvarying kindness, displayed whenever +I visited their neighborhood, I wish to testify. We remained at +Copenhagen a couple of months, and then proceeded to Gothenburg. It +was not at this time my father's intention to burden me with serious +responsibility; and, having in mind my age, he gave me but little of +the work to do, while he never failed to afford me, when he could, an +hour of recreation or pleasure. The trip as a whole, therefore, was +rather an educational experiment. + +In the fall of 1849, we returned to Loebau for the winter. From this +time until 1851 we made two trips together, very similar to the one +already described; and in 1851, when I was seventeen years of age, I +commenced helping in real earnest. By degrees, I was taught the +process of manufacturing; and when at intervals a stock had been +prepared, I made short trips to dispose of it. The blacking was a +paste, put up in small wooden boxes, to be applied with a brush, such +a thing as waterproof blacking then not being thought of, at least by +us. During the summer of 1851, business carried me to Haparanda, about +the most northerly port in Sweden; and from there I took passage, +stopping at Luleå, Piteå, Umeå, Hernösand, Sundsvall, Söderhamn and +Gefle, all small places along the route. I transacted no business, +however, on the trip up the coast because it was my intention to +return by land, when I should have more time for trade; accordingly, +on my way back to Stockholm, I revisited all of these points and +succeeded beyond my expectations. + +On my trip north, I sailed over the Gulf of Bothnia which, the reader +will recollect, separates Sweden from Finland, a province most +unhappily under Russia's bigoted, despotic sway; and while at +Haparanda, I was seized with a desire to visit Torneå, in Finland. I +was well aware that if I attempted to do so by the regular routes on +land, it would be necessary to pass the Russian customhouse, where +officers would be sure to examine my passport; and knowing, as the +whole liberal world now more than ever knows, that a person of Jewish +faith finds the merest sally beyond the Russian border beset with +unreasonable obstacles, I decided to walk across the wide marsh in the +northern part of the Gulf, and thus circumvent these exponents of +intolerance. Besides, I was curious to learn whether, in such a +benighted country, blacking and ink were used at all. I set out, +therefore, through the great moist waste, making my way without much +difficulty, and in due time arrived at Torneå, when I proceeded +immediately to the first store in the neighborhood; but there I was +destined to experience a rude, unexpected setback. An old man, +evidently the proprietor, met me and straightway asked, "Are you a +Jew?" and seeing, or imagining that I saw, a delay (perhaps not +altogether temporary!) in a Russian jail, I withdrew from the store +without ceremony, and returned to the place whence I had come. +Notwithstanding this adventure, I reached Stockholm in due season, the +trip back consuming about three weeks; and during part of that period +I subsisted almost entirely on salmon, bear's meat, milk, and +_knäckebröd_, the last a bread usually made of rye flour in which the +bran had been preserved. All in all, I was well pleased with this +maiden-trip; and as it was then September, I returned to Loebau to +spend one more winter at home. + + + + +CHAPTER II + +WESTWARD, HO! + +1853 + + +In April, 1853, when I had reached the age of nineteen, and was +expected to take a still more important part in our business--an +arrangement perfectly agreeable to me--my father and I resumed our +selling and again left for Sweden. For the sake of economy, as well as +to be closer to our field of operations, we had established two +insignificant manufacturing plants, the one at Copenhagen, where we +packed for two months, the other at Gothenburg, where we also prepared +stock; and from these two points, we operated until the middle of May, +1853. Then a most important event occurred, completely changing the +course of my life. In the spring, a letter was received from my +brother, J. P. Newmark, who, in 1848, had gone to the United States, +and had later settled in Los Angeles. He had previously, about 1846, +resided in England, as I have said; had then sailed to New York and +tarried for a while in the East; when, attracted by the discovery of +gold, he had proceeded to San Francisco, arriving there on May 6th, +1851, being the first of our family to come to the Coast. In this +letter my brother invited me to join him in California; and from the +first I was inclined to make the change, though I realized that much +depended on my father. He looked over my shoulder while I read the +momentous message; and when I came to the suggestion that I should +leave for America, I examined my father's face to anticipate, if +possible, his decision. After some reflection, he said he had no +doubt that my future would be benefited by such a change; and while +reluctant enough to let me go, he decided that as soon as practicable +I ought to start. We calculated the amount of blacking likely to be +required for our trade to the season's end, and then devoted the +necessary time to its manufacture. My mother, when informed of my +proposed departure, was beside herself with grief and forthwith +insisted on my return to Loebau; but being convinced that she intended +to thwart my desire, and having in mind the very optimistic spirit of +my brother's letter, I yielded to the influence of ambitious and +unreflecting youth, and sorrowfully but firmly insisted on the +execution of my plans. I feared that, should I return home to defend +my intended course, the mutual pain of parting would still be great. I +also had in mind my sisters and brothers (two of whom, Johanna, still +alive, and Nathan, deceased, subsequently came to Los Angeles), and +knew that each would appeal strongly to my affection and regret. This +resolution to leave without a formal adieu caused me no end of +distress; and my regret was the greater when, on Friday, July 1st, +1853, I stood face to face with the actual realization, among absolute +strangers on the deck of the vessel that was to carry me from +Gothenburg to Hull and far away from home and kindred. + +With deep emotion, my father bade me good-bye on the Gothenburg pier, +nor was I less affected at the parting; indeed, I have never doubted +that my father made a great sacrifice when he permitted me to leave +him, since I must have been of much assistance and considerable +comfort, especially during his otherwise solitary travels in foreign +lands. I remember distinctly remaining on deck as long as there was +the least vision of him; but when distance obliterated all view of the +shore, I went below to regain my composure. I soon installed my +belongings in the stateroom, or cabin as it was then called, and began +to accustom myself to my new and strange environment. + +There was but one other passenger--a young man--and he was to have a +curious part in my immediate future. As he also was bound for Hull, +we entered into conversation; and following the usual tendency of +people aboard ship, we soon became acquaintances. I had learned the +Swedish language, and could speak it with comparative ease; so that we +conversed without difficulty. He gave Gothenburg as his place of +residence, although there was no one at his departure to wish him +God-speed; and while this impressed me strangely at the time, I saw in +it no particular reason to be suspicious. He stated also that he was +bound for New York; and as it developed that we intended to take +passage on the same boat, we were pleased with the prospect of having +each other's company throughout the entire voyage. Soon our relations +became more confidential and he finally told me that he was carrying a +sum of money, and asked me to take charge of a part of it. +Unsophisticated though I was, I remembered my father's warning to be +careful in transactions with strangers; furthermore, the idea of +burdening myself with another's responsibility seeming injudicious, I +politely refused his request, although even then my suspicions were +not aroused. It was peculiar, to be sure, that when we steamed away +from land, the young man was in his cabin; but it was only in the +light of later developments that I understood why he so concealed +himself. + +We had now entered the open sea, which was very rough, and I retired, +remaining in my bunk for two days, or until we approached Hull, +suffering from the most terrible seasickness I have ever experienced; +and not until we sailed into port did I recover my sea legs at all. +Having dressed, I again met my traveling companion; and we became +still more intimate. On Sunday morning we reached Hull, then boasting +of no such harbor facilities as the great Humber docks now in course +of construction; and having transferred our baggage to the train as +best we could, we proceeded almost immediately on our way to +Liverpool. While now the fast English express crosses the country in +about three hours, the trip then consumed the better part of the night +and, being made in the darkness, afforded but little opportunity for +observation. + +Hardly had we arrived in Liverpool, when I was surprised in a way +that I shall never forget. While attempting to find our bundles as +they came from the luggage van--a precaution necessitated by the poor +baggage system then in vogue, which did not provide for checking--my +companion and I were taken in hand by officers of the law, told that +we were under arrest, and at once conducted to an examining +magistrate! As my conscience was clear, I had no misgivings on account +of the detention, although I did fear that I might lose my personal +effects; nor was I at ease again until they were brought in for +special inspection. Our trunks were opened in the presence of the +Swedish Consul who had come, in the meantime, upon the scene; and mine +having been emptied, it was immediately repacked and closed. What was +my amazement, however, when my fellow-traveler's trunk was found to +contain a very large amount of money with which he had absconded from +Gothenburg! He was at once hurried away to police headquarters; and I +then learned that, after our departure, messages had been sent to both +Hull and Liverpool to stop the thief, but that through confusion in +the description, doubtless due to the crude and incomplete information +transmitted by telegraph (then by no means as thoroughly developed as +now), the Liverpool authorities had arrested the only two passengers +arriving there who were known to have embarked at Gothenburg, and I, +unfortunately, happened to be one of them. + +At the period whereof I write, there was a semimonthly steamer service +between Liverpool and New York; and as bad luck would have it, the +boat in which I was to travel paddled away while I was in the midst of +the predicament just described, leaving me with the unpleasant outlook +of having to delay my departure for America two full weeks. The one +thing that consoled me was that, not having been fastidious as to my +berth, I had not engaged passage in advance, and so was not further +embarrassed by the forfeiture of hard-earned and much-needed money. As +it was, having stopped at a moderately priced hotel for the night, I +set out the next morning to investigate the situation. Speaking no +English, I was fortunate, a few days later, in meeting a Swedish +emigration agent who informed me that the _Star King_, a three-masted +sailing vessel in command of Captain Burland--both ship and captain +hailing from Baltimore--was booked to leave the following morning; and +finding the office of the company, I engaged one of the six +first-class berths in the saloon. There was no second-cabin, or I +might have traveled in that class; and of steerage passengers the +_Star King_ carried more than eight hundred crowded and seasick souls, +most of whom were Irish. Even in the first-class saloon, there were +few, if any, of the ordinary comforts, as I soon discovered, while of +luxuries there were none; and if one had the misfortune to lose even +trifling delicacies such as I had, including half a dozen bottles of +assorted syrups--put up by good Mrs. Lipman, on my leaving Gothenburg, +and dropped by a bungling porter--the inconvenience of the situation +was intensified. + +We left Liverpool--which, unlike Hull, I have since seen on one of my +several visits to Europe--on the evening of the 10th of July. On my +way to the cabin, I passed the dining table already arranged for +supper; and as I had eaten very sparingly since my seasickness on the +way to Hull, I was fully prepared for a square meal. The absence not +only of smoke, but of any smell as from an engine, was also favorable +to my appetite; and when the proper time arrived, I did full justice +to what was set before me. Steamers then were infrequent on the +Atlantic, but there were many sailing vessels; and these we often +passed, so close, in fact, as to enable the respective captains to +converse with each other. In the beginning, we had an ample supply of +fresh meat, eggs and butter, as well as some poultry, and the first +week's travel was like a delightful pleasure excursion. After that, +however, the meat commenced to deteriorate, the eggs turned stale, and +the butter became rancid; and as the days passed, everything grew +worse, excepting a good supply of cheese which possessed, as usual, +the faculty of improving, rather than spoiling, as it aged. Mountain +water might justly have shown indignation if the contents of the +barrels then on board had claimed relationship; while coffee and +tea, of which we partook in the usual manner at the commencement of +our voyage, we were compelled to drink, after a short time, without +milk--the one black and the other green. Notwithstanding these +annoyances, I enjoyed the experience immensely, once I had recovered +from my depression at leaving Europe; for youth could laugh at such +drawbacks, none of which, after all, seriously affected my naturally +buoyant spirits. Not until I narrowly escaped being shot, through the +Captain's careless handling of a derringer, was I roused from a +monotonous, half-dreamy existence. + + [Illustration: Philipp Neumark + From a Daguerreotype] + + [Illustration: Esther Neumark + From a Daguerreotype] + + [Illustration: J. P. Newmark + From a Daguerreotype] + + [Illustration: Mr. and Mrs. Joseph Newmark] + + [Illustration: Los Angeles in the Early Fifties + From a drawing of the Pacific Railway Expedition] + +Following this escape, matters progressed without special incident +until we were off the coast of Newfoundland, when we had every reason +to expect an early arrival in New York. Late one afternoon, while the +vessel was proceeding with all sail set, a furious squall struck her, +squarely amidships; and in almost as short a time as it takes to +relate the catastrophe, our three masts were snapped asunder, falling +over the side of the boat and all but capsizing her. The utmost +excitement prevailed; and from the Captain down to the ordinary +seaman, all hands were terror-stricken. The Captain believed, in fact, +that there was no hope of saving his ship; and forgetful of all need +of self-control and discipline, he loudly called to us, "Every man for +himself!" at the same time actually tearing at and plucking his bushy +hair--a performance that in no wise relieved the crisis. In less than +half an hour, the fury of the elements had subsided, and we found +ourselves becalmed; and the crew, assisted by the passengers, were +enabled, by cutting away chains, ropes and torn sails, to steady the +ship and keep her afloat. After this was accomplished, the Captain +engaged a number of competent steerage passengers to help put up +emergency masts, and to prepare new sails, for which we carried +material. For twelve weary days we drifted with the current, +apparently not advancing a mile; and during all this time the +Atlantic, but recently so stormy and raging, was as smooth as a +mill-pond, and the wreckage kept close to our ship. It was about the +middle of August when this disaster occurred, and not until we had +been busy many days rigging up again did a stiff breeze spring up, +enabling us to complete our voyage. + +On August 28th, 1853, exactly forty-nine days after our departure from +Liverpool, we arrived at New York, reaching Sandy Hook in a fog so +dense that it was impossible to see any distance ahead; and only when +the fog lifted, revealing the great harbor and showing how +miraculously we had escaped collision with the numerous craft all +about us, was our joy and relief at reaching port complete. I cannot +recollect whether we took a pilot aboard or not; but I do know that +the peculiar circumstances under which we arrived having prevented a +health officer from immediately visiting us, we were obliged to cast +anchor and await his inspection the next morning. During the evening, +the Captain bought fresh meat, vegetables, butter and eggs, offered +for sale by venders in boats coming alongside; and with sharpened +appetites we made short work of a fine supper, notwithstanding that +various features of shore life, or some passing craft, every minute or +two challenged our attention, and quite as amply we did justice, on +the following morning, to our last breakfast aboard ship. As I +obtained my first glimpse of New York, I thought of the hardships of +my father there, a few years before, and of his compulsory return to +Europe; and I wondered what might have been my position among +Americans had he succeeded in New York. At last, on August 29th, 1853, +under a blue and inspiriting sky and with both curiosity and hope +tuned to the highest pitch, I first set foot on American soil, in the +country where I was to live and labor the remainder of my life, whose +flag and institutions I have more and more learned to honor and love. + +Before leaving Europe, I had been provided with the New York addresses +of friends from Loebau, and my first duty was to look them up. One of +these, named Lindauer, kept a boarding-house on Bayard Street near the +Five Points, now, I believe, in the neighborhood of Chinatown; and as +I had no desire to frequent high-priced hotels, I made my temporary +abode with him. I also located the house of Rich Brothers, associated +with the San Francisco concern of the same name and through whom I +was to obtain funds from my brother with which to continue my journey; +but as I had to remain in New York three weeks until their receipt, I +could do little more in furthering my departure than to engage +second-cabin passage _via_ Nicaragua by a line running in opposition +to the Panamá route, and offering cheapness as its principal +attraction. Having attended to that, I spent the balance of the time +visiting and seeing the city, and in making my first commercial +venture in the New World. In my impatience to be doing something, I +foolishly relieved Samuel, a brother of Kaspare Cohn, and a nephew of +mine, of a portion of his merchandise; but in a single day I decided +to abandon peddling--a difficult business for which, evidently, I was +never intended. After that, a painful experience with mosquitoes was +my only unpleasant adventure. I did not know until later that an +excited crowd of men were just then assembled in the neighborhood, in +what was styled the Universal Ice-Water Convention, and that not far +away a crowd of women, quite as demonstrative, excluded from the +councils of men and led by no less a personality than P. T. Barnum, +the showman, were clamoring for both Prohibition and Equal Suffrage! + + + + +CHAPTER III + +NEW YORK--NICARAGUA--THE GOLDEN GATE + +1853 + + +On September 20th, during some excitement due to the fear lest +passengers from New Orleans afflicted with yellow-fever were being +smuggled into the city despite the vigilance of the health +authorities, I left New York for Nicaragua, then popularly spoken of +as the Isthmus, sailing on the steamer _Illinois_ as one of some +eleven or twelve hundred travelers recently arrived from Europe who +were hurrying to California on that ship and the _Star of the West_. +The occasion afforded my numerous acquaintances a magnificent +opportunity to give me all kinds of advice, in the sifting of which +the bad was discarded, while some attention was paid to the good. One +of the important matters mentioned was the danger from drinking such +water as was generally found in the tropics unless it were first mixed +with brandy; and this led me, before departing, to buy a gallon +demijohn--a bulging bottle destined to figure in a ludicrous episode +on my trip from sea to sea. I can recall little of the voyage to the +eastern coast of Nicaragua. We kept well out at sea until we reached +the Bahama Islands, when we passed near Mariguana, felt our way +through the Windward Passage, and steered east of the Island of +Jamaica; but I recollect that it became warmer and warmer as we +proceeded farther south to about opposite Mosquito Gulf, where we +shifted our position in relation to the sun, and that we consumed nine +days in covering the two thousand miles or more between New York and +San Juan del Norte, or Grey Town. + +From San Juan del Norte--in normal times, a hamlet of four or five +hundred people clustered near one narrow, dirty street--we proceeded +up the San Juan River, nine hundred passengers huddled together on +three flat-bottomed boats, until, after three or four days, our +progress was interfered with, at Castillo Rapids, by a fall in the +stream. There we had to disembark and climb the rough grade, while our +baggage was carried up on a tramway; after which we continued our +journey on larger boats, though still miserably packed together, until +we had almost reached the mouth of Lake Nicaragua, when the water +became so shallow that we had to trust ourselves to the uncertain +_bongos_, or easily-overturned native canoes, or get out again and +walk. It would be impossible to describe the hardships experienced on +these crowded little steamboats, which were by no means one quarter as +large as the _Hermosa_, at present plying between Los Angeles harbor +and Catalina. The only drinking water that we could get came from the +river, and it was then that my brandy served its purpose: with the +addition of the liquor, I made the drink both palatable and safe. Men, +women and children, we were parched and packed like so many herring, +and at night there was not only practically no space between +passengers sleeping on deck, but the extremities of one were sure to +interfere with the body of another. The heat was indeed intense; the +mosquitoes seemed omnivorous; to add to which, the native officers in +charge of our expedition pestered us with their mercenary proceedings. +For a small cup of black coffee, a charge of fifty cents was made, +which leaves the impression that food was scarce, else no one would +have consented to pay so much for so little. This part of the trip was +replete with misery to many, but fortunately for me, although the +transportation company provided absolutely no conveniences, the +hardships could not interfere with my enjoyment of the delightful and +even sublime scenery surrounding us on all sides in this tropical +country. As the river had no great width, we were at close range to +the changing panorama on both banks; while the neighboring land was +covered with gorgeous jungles and vegetation. Here I first saw +orange, lemon and cocoanut trees. Monkeys of many kinds and sizes +were to be seen; and birds of variegated colors were plentiful, almost +innumerable varieties of parrots being visible. All these things were +novel to me; and notwithstanding the great discomforts under which we +traveled, I repeat that I enjoyed myself. + +A walk of a mile or two along the river bank, affording beneficial +exercise, brought us to Port San Carlos, from which point a larger +boat crossed the lake to Virgin Bay, where we took mules to convey us +to San Juan del Sur. This journey was as full of hardship as it was of +congeniality, and proved as interesting as it was amusing. Imagine, if +you please, nine hundred men, women and children from northern climes, +long accustomed to the ways of civilization, suddenly precipitated, +under an intensely hot tropical sun, into a small, Central American +landing, consisting of a few huts and some cheap, improvised tents +(used for saloons and restaurants), every one in search of a mule or a +horse, the only modes of transportation. The confusion necessarily +following the preparation for this part of the trip can hardly be +imagined: the steamship company furnished the army of animals, and the +nervous tourists furnished the jumble! Each one of the nine hundred +travelers feared that there would not be enough animals for all, and +the anxiety to secure a beast caused a stampede. + +In the scramble, I managed to get hold of a fine mule, and presently +we were all mounted and ready to start. This conglomeration of +humanity presented, indeed, a ludicrous sight; and I really believe +that I must have been the most grotesque figure of them all. I have +mentioned the demijohn of brandy, which a friend advised me to buy; +but I have not mentioned another friend who told me that I should be +in danger of sunstroke in this climate, and who induced me to carry an +umbrella to protect myself from the fierce rays of the enervating sun. +Picture me, then, none too short and very lank, astride a mule, a big +demijohn in one hand, and a spreading, green umbrella in the other, +riding through this southern village, and practically incapable of +contributing anything to the course of the mule. Had the animal been +left to his own resources, he might have followed the caravan; but in +my ignorance, I attempted to indicate to him which direction he should +take. My method was evidently not in accordance with the tradition of +guiding in just that part of the world; and to make a long story +short, the mule, with his three-fold burden, deftly walked into a +restaurant, in the most innocent manner and to the very great +amusement of the diners, but to the terrible embarrassment and +consternation of the rider. After some difficulty (for the restaurant +was hardly intended for such maneuvers as were required), we were led +out of the tent. This experience showed me the necessity of abandoning +either the umbrella or the brandy; and learning that lemonade could be +had at points along the route, I bade good-bye to the demijohn and its +exhilarating contents. From this time on, although I still displayed +inexpertness in control, his muleship and I gradually learned to +understand each other, and matters progressed very well, +notwithstanding the intense heat, and the fatigue natural to riding so +long in such an unaccustomed manner. The lemonade, though warm and, +therefore, dear at ten cents a glass, helped to quench my thirst; and +as the scenery was wonderful, I derived all the benefit and pleasure +possible from the short journey. + +All in all, we traversed about twelve miles on mule or horseback, and +finally arrived, about four o'clock in the afternoon of the day we had +started, at San Juan del Sur, thus putting behind us the most +disagreeable part of this uncomfortable trip. Here it may be +interesting to add that on our way across the Isthmus, we met a crowd +of disappointed travelers returning from the Golden Gate, on their way +toward New York. They were a discouraged lot and loudly declared that +California was nothing short of a _fiasco_; but, fortunately, there +prevailed that weakness of human nature which impels every man to earn +his own experience, else, following the advice of these discomfited +people, some of us might have retraced our steps and thus completely +altered our destinies. Not until the publication, years later, of the +_Personal Memoirs of General W. T. Sherman_, did I learn, with +peculiar interest, that the then rising soldier, returning to +California with his young wife, infant child and nurse, had actually +embarked from New York on the same day that I had, arriving in San +Francisco the same day that I arrived, and that therefore the +Shermans, whose experience with the mules was none the less trying and +ridiculous than my own, must have been members of the same party with +me in crossing the mosquito-infested Isthmus. + +There was no appreciable variation in temperature while I was in +Nicaragua, and at San Juan del Sur (whose older portion, much like San +Juan del Norte, was a village of the Spanish-American type with one +main street, up and down which, killing time, I wandered) the heat was +just as oppressive as it had been before. People often bunked in the +open, a hotel-keeper named Green renting hammocks, at one dollar each, +when all his beds had been taken. One of these hammocks I engaged; but +being unaccustomed to such an aërial lodging, I was most +unceremoniously spilled out, during a deep sleep in the night, falling +only a few feet, but seeming, to my stirred-up imagination, to be +sliding down through limitless space. Here I may mention that this +Nicaragua Route was the boom creation of a competitive service +generally understood to have been initiated by those who intended, at +the first opportunity, to sell out; and that since everybody expected +to pack and move on at short notice, San Juan del Sur, suddenly +enlarged by the coming and going of adventurers, was for the moment in +part a community of tents, presenting a most unstable appearance. A +picturesque little creek flowed by the town and into the Pacific; and +there a fellow-traveler, L. Harris, and I decided to refresh +ourselves. This was no sooner agreed upon than done; but a passer-by +having excitedly informed us that the creek was infested with +alligators, we were not many seconds in following his advice to +scramble out, thereby escaping perhaps a fate similar to that which +overtook, only a few years later, a near relative of Mrs. Henry +Hancock. + +At sundown, on the day after we arrived at San Juan del Sur, the +Pacific terminal, we were carried by natives through the surf to +small boats, and so transferred to the steamer _Cortez_; and then we +started, amidst great rejoicing, on the last lap of our journey. We +steamed away in a northerly direction, upon a calm sea and under the +most favorable circumstances, albeit the intense heat was most +unpleasant. In the course of about a week the temperature fell, for we +were steadily approaching a less tropical zone. Finally, on the 16th +of October, 1853, we entered the Golden Gate. + +Notwithstanding the lapse of many years, this first visit to San +Francisco has never been forgotten. The beauty of the harbor, the +surrounding elevations, the magnificence of the day, and the joy of +being at my journey's end, left an impression of delight which is +still fresh and agreeable in my memory. All San Francisco, so to +speak, was drawn to the wharf, and enthusiasm ran wild. Jacob Rich, +partner of my brother, was there to meet me and, without ceremony, +escorted me to his home; and under his hospitable roof I remained +until the morning when I was to depart for the still sunnier South. + +San Francisco, in 1853, was much like a frontier town, devoid of +either style or other evidences of permanent progress; yet it was +wide-awake and lively in the extreme. What little had been built, bad +and good, after the first rush of gold-seekers, had been destroyed in +the five or six fires that swept the city just before I came, so that +the best buildings I saw were of hasty and, for the most part, of +frame construction. Tents also, of all sizes, shapes and colors, +abounded. I was amazed, I remember, at the lack of civilization as I +understood it, at the comparative absence of women, and at the +spectacle of people riding around the streets on horseback like mad. +All sorts of excitement seemed to fill the air; everywhere there was a +noticeable lack of repose; and nothing perhaps better fits the scene I +would describe than some lines from a popular song of that time +entitled, _San Francisco in 1853_: + + City full of people, + In a business flurry; + Everybody's motto, + Hurry! hurry! hurry! + + Every nook and corner + Full to overflowing: + Like a locomotive, + Everybody going! + +One thing in particular struck me, and that was the unsettled state of +the surface on which the new town was being built. I recall for +example, the great quantity of sand that was continually being blown +into the streets from sand-dunes uninterruptedly forming in the +endless vacant lots, and how people, after a hard wind at night, would +find small sand-heaps in front of their stores and residences; so +that, in the absence of any municipal effort to keep the thoroughfares +in order, the owners were repeatedly engaged in sweeping away the +accumulation of sand, lest they might be overwhelmed. The streets were +ungraded, although some were covered with planks for pavement, and +presented altogether such an aspect of uncertainty that one might well +believe General Sherman's testimony that, in winter time, he had seen +mules fall, unable to rise, and had even witnessed one drown in a pool +of mud! Sidewalks, properly speaking, there were none. Planks and +boxes--some filled with produce not yet unpacked--were strung along in +irregular lines, requiring the poise of an acrobat to walk upon, +especially at night. As I waded through the sand-heaps or fell over +the obstructions designed as pavements, my thoughts reverted, very +naturally, to my brother who had preceded me to San Francisco two +years before; but it was not until some years later that I learned +that my distinguished fellow-countryman, Heinrich Schliemann, destined +to wander farther to Greece and Asia Minor, and there to search for +ancient Troy, had not only knocked about the sand-lots in the same +manner in which I was doing, but, stirred by the discovery of gold and +the admission of California to the Union, had even taken on American +citizenship. Schliemann visited California in 1850 and became +naturalized; nor did he ever, I believe, repudiate the act which makes +the greatest explorer of ancient Greece a burgher of the United +States! + +During my short stay in San Francisco, before leaving for Los +Angeles, I made the usual rounds under the guidance of Jacob Rich. +Having just arrived from the tropics, I was not provided with an +overcoat; and since the air was chilly at night, my host, who wore a +talma or large cape, lent me a shawl, shawls then being more used than +they are now. Rich took me to a concert that was held in a one-story +wooden shack, whereat I was much amazed; and afterward we visited a +number of places of louder revelry. Just as I found it to be a few +days later in Los Angeles, so San Francisco was filled with saloons +and gambling-houses; and these institutions were in such contrast to +the features of European life to which I had been accustomed, that +they made a strong impression upon me. There were no restrictions of +any sort, not even including a legal limit to their number, and people +engaged in these enterprises because, in all probability, they were +the most profitable. Such resorts attracted criminals, or developed in +certain persons latent propensities to wrong-doing, and perhaps it is +no wonder that Walker, but the summer previous, should have selected +San Francisco as headquarters for his filibustering expedition to +Lower California. By far the most talked-of man of that day was Harry +Meiggs--popularly known as "Honest Harry"--who was engaged in various +enterprises, and was a good patron of civic and church endeavor. He +was evidently the advance guard of the boomer organization, and built +the Long Wharf at North Beach, on a spot now at Commercial and +Montgomery streets, where later the Australian convict, trying to +steal a safe, was captured by the First Vigilance Committee; and so +much was Meiggs the envy of the less pyrotechnical though more +substantial people, that I repeatedly had my attention called, during +my brief stay in San Francisco, to what was looked upon as his +prodigious prosperity. But Meiggs, useful as he was to the society of +his day, finally ended his career by forging a lot of city scrip (a +great deal of which he sold to W. T. Sherman and his banking +associates), and by absconding to Peru, where he became prominent as a +banker and a developer of mines. + +Situated at the Plaza--where, but three years before, on the +admission of California as a State, the meeting of gold-seeking +pioneers and lassoing natives had been symbolized with streaming +banners, and the thirty-one stars were nailed to a rude pole--was the +El Dorado, the most luxurious gambling-place and saloon in the West, +despite the existence near by of the Bella Union, the Parker House and +the Empire. Music, particularly native Spanish or Mexican airs, played +its part there, as well as other attractions; and much of the life of +the throbbing town centered in that locality. It is my impression that +the water front was then Sansome Street; and if this be correct, it +will afford some idea of the large territory in San Francisco that is +made ground. + +As there was then no stage line between San Francisco and the South, I +was compelled to continue my journey by sea; and on the morning of +October 18th, I boarded the steamer _Goliah_--whose Captain was +Salisbury Haley, formerly a surveyor from Santa Bárbara--bound for Los +Angeles, and advertised to stop at Monterey, San Luis Obispo, Santa +Bárbara and one or two other landings formerly of importance but now +more or less forgotten. There were no wharves at any of those places; +passengers and freight were taken ashore in small boats; and when they +approached shallow water, everything was carried to dry land by the +sailors. This performance gave rise, at times, to most annoying +situations; boats would capsize and empty their passengers into the +water, creating a merriment enjoyed more by those who were secure than +by the victims themselves. On October 21st we arrived a mile or so off +San Pedro, and were disembarked in the manner above described, having +luckily suffered no such mishap as that which befell passengers on the +steamship _Winfield Scott_ who, journeying from Panamá but a month or +so later, at midnight struck one of the Anacapa Islands, now belonging +to Ventura County, running dead on to the rocks. The vessel in time +was smashed to pieces, and the passengers, several hundred in number, +were forced to camp on the island for a week or more. + +Almost from the time of the first visit of a steamer to San Pedro, the +_Gold Hunter_ (a side-wheeler which made the voyage from San +Francisco to Mazatlán in 1849), and certainly from the day in January +of that same year when Temple & Alexander put on their four-wheeled +vehicle, costing one thousand dollars and the second in the county, +there was competition in transporting passengers to Los Angeles. +Phineas Banning, Augustus W. Timms, J. J. Tomlinson, John Goller, +David W. Alexander, José Rúbio and B. A. Townsend were among the most +enterprising commission men; and their keen rivalry brought about two +landings--one controlled by Banning, who had come to Los Angeles in +1851, and the other by Timms, after whom one of the terminals was +named. Before I left San Francisco, Rich provided me with a letter of +introduction to Banning--who was then known, if I remember aright, as +Captain, though later he was called successively Major and General--at +the same time stating that this gentleman was a forwarding merchant. +Now, in European cities where I had heretofore lived, commission and +forwarding merchants were a dignified and, to my way of thinking, an +aristocratic class, which centuries of business experience had brought +to a genteel perfection; and they would have found themselves entirely +out of their element had their operations demanded their sudden +translation, in the fifties, to the west coast of America. At any +rate, upon arriving at San Pedro I had expected to find a man dressed +either in a uniform or a Prince Albert, with a high hat and other +appropriate appurtenances, and it is impossible to describe my +astonishment when Banning was pointed out to me; for I knew absolutely +nothing of the rough methods in vogue on the Pacific Coast. There +stood before me a very large, powerful man, coatless and vestless, +without necktie or collar, and wearing pantaloons at least six inches +too short, a pair of brogans and socks with large holes; while +bright-colored suspenders added to the picturesque effect of his +costume. It is not my desire to ridicule a gentleman who, during his +lifetime, was to be a good, constant friend of mine, but rather to +give my readers some idea of life in the West, as well as to present +my first impressions of Southern California. The fact of the matter is +that Banning, in his own way, was even then such a man of affairs +that he had bought, but a few months before, some fifteen wagons and +nearly five times as many mules, and had paid almost thirty thousand +dollars for them. I at once delivered the letter in which Rich had +stated that I had but a smattering of English and that it would be a +favor to him if Banning would help me safely on my way to Los Angeles; +and Banning, having digested the contents of the communication, looked +me over from head to foot, shook hands and, in a stentorian voice--loud +enough, I thought, to be heard beyond the hills--good-naturedly called +out, "_Wie geht's?_" After which, leading the way, and shaking hands +again, he provided me with a good place on the stage. + +Not a minute was lost between the arrival of passengers and the +departure of coaches for Los Angeles in the early fifties. The +competition referred to developed a racing tendency that was the talk +of the pueblo. The company that made the trip in the shortest time +usually obtained, through lively betting, the best of advertising and +the largest patronage; so that, from the moment of leaving San Pedro +until the final arrival in Los Angeles two and a half hours later, we +tore along at breakneck speed, over roads slowly traveled, but a few +years before, by Stockton's cannon. These roads never having been +cared for, and still less inspected, were abominably bad; and I have +often wondered that during such contests there were not more +accidents. The stages were of the common Western variety, and four to +six broncos were always a feature of the equipment. No particular +attention had been given to the harness, and everything was more or +less primitive. The stage was provided with four rows of seats and +each row, as a rule, was occupied by four passengers, the front row +including the oft-bibulous driver; and the fare was five dollars. + +Soon after leaving San Pedro, we passed thousands of ground squirrels, +and never having seen anything of the kind before, I took them for +ordinary rats. This was not an attractive discovery; and when later we +drove by a number of ranch houses and I saw beef cut into strings and +hung up over fences to dry, it looked as though I had landed on +another planet. I soon learned that dried beef or, as the natives +here called it, _carne seca_ (more generally known, perhaps, at least +among frontiersmen, as "jerked" beef or _jerky_) was an important +article of food in Southern California; but from the reminiscences of +various pioneers I have known, it evidently astonished others as much +as it did me. + +Having reached the Half-Way House, we changed horses; then we +continued and approached Los Angeles by San Pedro Street, which was a +narrow lane, possibly not more than ten feet wide, with growing +vineyards bordered by willow trees on each side of the road. It was on +a Sunday and in the midst of the grape season that I first beheld the +City of the Angels; and to these facts in particular I owe another odd +and unfavorable first impression of the neighborhood. Much of the work +connected with the grape industry was done by Indians and native +Mexicans, or Californians, as they were called, and every Saturday +evening they received their pay. During Saturday night and all day +Sunday, they drank themselves into hilarity and intoxication, and this +dissipation lasted until Sunday night. Then they slept off their +sprees and were ready to work Monday morning. During each period of +excitement, from one to three or four of these revelers were murdered. +Never having seen Indians before, I supposed them to represent the +citizenship of Los Angeles--an amusing error for which I might be +pardoned when one reflects that nine out of forty-four of the founders +of Los Angeles were Indians, and that, according to an official census +made the year before, Los Angeles County in 1852 had about +thirty-seven hundred domesticated Indians among a population of a +little over four thousand whites; and this mistake as to the typical +burgher, together with my previous experiences, added to my amazement. + +At last, with shouts and yells from the competing drivers, almost as +deafening as the horn-blowing of a somewhat later date, and hailed +apparently by every inhabitant and dog along the route, we arrived at +the only real hotel in town, the Bella Union, where stages stopped and +every city function took place. This hotel was a one-story, adobe +house enlarged in 1858 to two stories, and located on Main Street +above Commercial; and Dr. Obed Macy, who had bought it the previous +spring from Winston & Hodges, was the proprietor. + + [Illustration: Bella Union as it Appeared in 1858 + From a lithograph] + + [Illustration: John Goller's Blacksmith Shop + From a lithograph of 1858] + +My friend, Sam Meyer (now deceased, but for fifty years or more +treasurer of Forty-two, the oldest Masonic lodge in Los Angeles), who +had come here a few months in advance of me, awaited the arrival of +the stage and at once recognized me by my costume, which was anything +but in harmony with Southern California fashions of that time. My +brother, J. P. Newmark, not having seen me for several years, thought +that our meeting ought to be private, and so requested Sam to show me +to his store. I was immediately taken to my brother's place of +business where he received me with great affection; and there and then +we renewed that sympathetic association which continued many years, +until his death in 1895. + + + + +CHAPTER IV + +FIRST ADVENTURES IN LOS ANGELES + +1853 + + +Once fairly well settled here, I began to clerk for my brother, who in +1852 had bought out a merchant named Howard. For this service I +received my lodging, the cost of my board, and thirty dollars each +month. The charges for board at the Bella Union--then enjoying a +certain prestige, through having been the official residence of Pio +Pico when Stockton took the city--were too heavy, and arrangements +were made with a Frenchman named John La Rue, who had a restaurant on +the east side of Los Angeles Street, about two hundred feet south of +Bell's Row. I paid him nine dollars a week for three more or less +hearty meals a day, not including eggs, unless I provided them; in +this case he agreed to prepare them for me. Eggs were by no means +scarce; but steaks and mutton and pork chops were the popular choice, +and potatoes and vegetables a customary accompaniment. + +This La Rue, or Leroux, as he was sometimes called, was an interesting +personality with an interesting history. Born in France, he sailed for +the United States about the time of the discovery of gold in +California, and made his way to San Francisco and the mines, where +luck encouraged him to venture farther and migrate to Mazatlán, +Mexico. While prospecting there, however, he was twice set upon and +robbed; and barely escaping with his life, he once more turned +northward, this time stopping at San Pedro and Los Angeles. Here, +meeting Miss Bridget Johnson, a native of Ireland, who had just come +from New York by way of San Diego, La Rue married her, notwithstanding +their inability to speak each other's language, and then opened a +restaurant, which he continued to conduct until 1858 when he died, as +the result of exposure at a fire on Main Street. Although La Rue was +in no sense an eminent citizen, it is certain that he was esteemed and +mourned. Prior to his death, he had bought thirty or thirty-five acres +of land, on which he planted a vineyard and an orange-orchard; and +these his wife inherited. In 1862, Madame La Rue married John Wilson, +also a native of Ireland, who had come to Los Angeles during the year +that the _restaurateur_ died. He was a blacksmith and worked for John +Goller, continuing in business for over twenty years, and adding +greatly, by industry and wise management, to the dowry brought him by +the thrifty widow. + +I distinctly recall La Rue's restaurant, and quite as clearly do I +remember one or two humorous experiences there. Nothing in Los +Angeles, perhaps, has ever been cruder than this popular eating-place. +The room, which faced the street, had a mud-floor and led to the +kitchen through a narrow opening. Half a dozen cheap wooden tables, +each provided with two chairs, stood against the walls. The +tablecloths were generally dirty, and the knives and forks, as well as +the furniture, were of the homeliest kind. The food made up in +portions what it lacked in quality, and the diner rarely had occasion +to leave the place hungry. What went most against my grain was the +slovenliness of the proprietor himself. Flies were very thick in the +summer months; and one day I found a big fellow splurging in my bowl +of soup. This did not, however, faze John La Rue. Seeing the +struggling insect, he calmly dipped his coffee-colored fingers into +the hot liquid and, quite as serenely, drew out the fly; and although +one could not then be as fastidious as nowadays, I nevertheless found +it impossible to eat the soup. + +On another occasion, however, mine host's equanimity was disturbed. I +had given him two eggs one morning, to prepare for me, when Councilman +A. Jacobi, a merchant and also a customer of La Rue's, came in for +breakfast, bringing one more egg than mine. Presently my meal, +unusually generous, was served, and without loss of time I disposed of +it and was about to leave; when just then Jacobi discovered that the +small portion set before him could not possibly contain the three eggs +he had supplied. Now, Jacobi was not only possessed of a considerable +appetite, but had as well a definite unwillingness to accept less than +his due, while La Rue, on the other hand, was very easily aroused to a +high pitch of Gallic excitement; so that in less time than is required +to relate the story, the two men were embroiled in a genuine +Franco-Prussian dispute, all on account of poor La Rue's unintentional +interchange of the two breakfasts. Soon after this encounter, Jacobi, +who was an amateur violinist of no mean order, and had fiddled himself +into the affections of his neighbors, left for Berlin with a snug +fortune, and there after some years he died. + +Having arranged for my meals, my brother's next provision was for a +sleeping-place. A small, unventilated room adjoining the store was +selected; and there I rested on an ordinary cot furnished with a +mattress, a pillow, and a pair of _frazadas_, or blankets. According +to custom, whatever of these covers I required were taken each evening +from stock, and the next morning they were returned to the shelves. +Stores as well as houses were then almost without stoves or +fireplaces; and as it grew colder, I found that the blankets gave +little or no warmth. Indeed they were nothing more or less, +notwithstanding their slight mixture of wool, than ordinary +horse-blankets, on which account in winter I had to use five or six of +them to enjoy any comfort whatever; and since I experienced difficulty +in keeping them on the cot, I resorted at last to the device of +tacking them down on one side. + +In 1853, free-and-easy customs were in vogue in Los Angeles, +permitting people in the ordinary affairs of life to do practically as +they pleased. There were few if any restrictions; and if +circumscribing City ordinances existed--except, perhaps, those of 1850 +which, while licensing gaming places, forbade the playing of cards on +the street--I do not remember what they were. As was the case in San +Francisco, neither saloons nor gambling places were limited by law, +and there were no regulations for their management. As many persons as +could make a living in this manner kept such establishments, which +were conspicuous amid the sights of the town. Indeed, chief among the +surprises greeting me during my first few weeks upon the Coast, the +many and flourishing gambling dens caused me the greatest +astonishment. + +Through the most popular of these districts, a newly-found friend +escorted me on the evening of my arrival in Los Angeles. The quarter +was known by the euphonious title of Calle de los Negros--Nigger +Alley; and this alley was a thoroughfare not over forty feet wide +which led from Aliso Street to the Plaza, an extent of just one +unbroken block. At this period, there was a long adobe facing Los +Angeles Street, having a covered platform or kind of veranda, about +four feet from the ground, running its entire length. The building +commenced at what was later Sanchez Street, and reached, in an +easterly direction, to within forty feet, more or less, of the east +side of Nigger Alley, then continuing north to the Plaza. This formed +the westerly boundary, while a line of adobes on the other side of the +street formed the easterly line. The structure first described, and +which was demolished many years ago, later became the scene of the +beginning of an awful massacre to which I shall refer in due season. + +Each side of the alley was occupied by saloons and gambling houses. +Men and women alike were to be found there, and both sexes looked +after the gaming tables, dealing monte and faro, and managing other +contrivances that parted the good-natured and easy-going people from +their money. Those in charge of the banks were always provided with +pistols, and were ready, if an emergency arose, to settle disputes on +the spot; and only rarely did a case come up for adjustment before the +properly-constituted authorities, such as that in 1848, which remained +a subject of discussion for some time, when counterfeiters, charged +with playing at monte with false money, were tried before a special +court made up of Abel Stearns and Stephen C. Foster. Time was +considered a very important element during the play; and sanguinary +verdicts in financial disputes were generally rendered at once. + +Human life at this period was about the cheapest thing in Los Angeles, +and killings were frequent. Nigger Alley was as tough a neighborhood, +in fact, as could be found anywhere, and a large proportion of the +twenty or thirty murders a month was committed there. About as +plentiful a thing, also, as there was in the pueblo was liquor. This +was served generously in these resorts, not only with respect to +quantity, but as well regarding variety. In addition to the +prodigality of feasting, there was no lack of music of the native +sort--the harp and the guitar predominating. These scenes were +picturesque and highly interesting. Nigger Alley, for a while the +headquarters for gamblers, enjoyed through that circumstance a certain +questionable status; but in the course of years it came to be more and +more occupied by the Chinese, and given over to their opium-dens, +shops and laundries. There, also, their peculiar religious rites were +celebrated in just as peculiar a joss house, the hideously-painted +gods not in the least becoming a deterrent factor. Juan Apablasa was +among those who owned considerable property in Chinatown, and a street +in that quarter perpetuates his name. + +Having crossed the Plaza, we entered Sonora Town, where my friend told +me that every evening there was much indulgence in drinking, smoking +and gambling, and quite as much participation in dancing. Some of this +life, which continued in full swing until the late seventies, I +witnessed on my first evening in Los Angeles. + +Returning to Main Street, formerly Calle Principal, we entered the +Montgomery, one of the well-known gambling houses--a one-story adobe +about a hundred feet in width, in front of which was a shaded +veranda--situated nearly opposite the Stearns home, and rather +aristocratic, not only in its furnishings but also in its management. +This resort was managed by the fearless William C., or Billy Getman, +afterward Sheriff of Los Angeles County, whom I saw killed while +trying to arrest a lunatic. The Montgomery was conducted in an +orderly manner, and catered to the most fastidious people of Los +Angeles, supplying liquors of a correspondingly high grade; the charge +for a drink there being invariably twenty-five cents. It was provided +with a billiard parlor, where matches were often arranged for a stake +of hundreds of dollars. Games of chance there were for every +requirement, the long and the short purse being equally well +accommodated. The ranch owner could bet his hundreds, while he of +lowlier estate might tempt the fickle goddess according to his +narrower means. + +A fraternity of gamblers almost indigenous to California, and which +has been celebrated and even, to an extent, glorified by such writers +as Mark Twain, Bret Harte and others, was everywhere then in evidence +in Los Angeles; and while it is true that their vocation was +illegitimate, many of them represented nevertheless a splendid type of +man: generous, honest in methods, courageous in operations and +respected by everybody. It would be impossible, perhaps, to describe +this class as I knew them and at the same time to satisfy the modern +ideal; but pioneers will confirm my tribute to these early gamesters +(among whom they may recall Brand Phillips) and their redeeming +characteristics. + +As I have said, my brother, J. P. Newmark, was in partnership with +Jacob Rich, the gentleman who met me when I reached San Francisco; +their business being dry-goods and clothing. They were established in +J. N. Padilla's adobe on the southeast corner of Main and Requena +streets, a site so far "out of town" that success was possible only +because of their catering to a wholesale clientele rather than to the +retail trade; and almost opposite them, ex-Mayor John G. Nichols +conducted a small grocery in a store that he built on the Main Street +side of the property now occupied by Temple Block. There was an old +adobe wall running north and south along the east line of the lot, out +of which Nichols cut about fifteen feet, using this property to a +depth of some thirty feet, thus forming a rectangular space which he +enclosed. Here he carried on a modest trade which, even in addition to +his other cares, scarcely demanded his whole time; so that he would +frequently visit his neighbors, among whom Newmark & Rich were his +nearest friends. Often have I seen him therefore, long and lank, +seated in my brother's store tilted back in a chair against the wall +or merchandise, a cigar, which he never lighted, in his mouth, +exhorting his hearers to be patriotic and to purchase City land at a +dollar an acre, thereby furnishing some of the taxes necessary to +lubricate the municipal machinery. Little did any of us realize, as we +listened to this man, that in the course of another generation or so +there would spring into life a prosperous metropolis whose very heart +would be situated near where old Mayor Nichols was vainly endeavoring +to dispose of thirty-five-acre bargains at thirty-five dollars each--a +feature of municipal coöperation with prospective settlers which was +inaugurated August 13th, 1852, and repealed through dissatisfaction in +1854. Nichols, who, with J. S. Mallard and Lewis Granger, brought one +of the first three American families to settle here permanently, and +who married a sister of Mrs. Mallard, was the father of John Gregg +Nichols, always claimed to be the first boy born (April 24th, 1851), +of American parents, in Los Angeles. Nichols when Mayor was never +neglectful of his official duties, as may be seen from his record in +providing Hancock's survey, his construction of the Bath Street +School, his encouragement of better irrigation facilities, his +introduction of the first fruit grafts--brought, by the way, from +far-off New York--and his reëlection as Mayor in 1856, 1857, and 1858. +In 1869, another son, Daniel B. Nichols, of whom I shall speak, was a +participant in a fatal shooting affray here. + +A still earlier survey than that of Hancock was made by Lieutenant +Edward O. C. Ord--later distinguished in the Union Army where, +singularly enough, he was fighting with Rosecrans, in time a resident +of Los Angeles--who, in an effort to bring order out of the pueblo +chaos, left still greater confusion. To clear up the difficulty of +adobes isolated or stranded in the middle of the streets, the Common +Council in 1854 permitted owners to claim a right of way to the +thoroughfares nearest their houses. This brings to mind the fact that +the _vara_, a Spanish unit equal to about thirty-three inches, was a +standard in real estate measurements even after the advent of Ord, +Hancock and Hansen, who were followed by such surveyors as P. J. +Virgen (recalled by Virgen Street) and his partner Hardy; and also +that the _reata_ was often used as a yardstick--its uncertain length +having contributed, without doubt, to the chaotic condition +confronting Ord. + +Graded streets and sidewalks were unknown; hence, after heavy winter +rains mud was from six inches to two feet deep, while during the +summer dust piled up to about the same extent. Few City ordinances +were obeyed; for notwithstanding that a regulation of the City Council +called on every citizen to sweep in front of his house to a certain +point on Saturday evenings, not the slightest attention was paid to +it. Into the roadway was thrown all the rubbish: if a man bought a new +suit of clothes, a pair of boots, a hat or a shirt, to replace a +corresponding part of his apparel that had outlived its usefulness, he +would think nothing, on attiring himself in the new purchase, of +tossing the discarded article into the street where it would remain +until some passing Indian, or other vagabond, took possession of it. +So wretched indeed were the conditions, that I have seen dead animals +left on the highways for days at a time, and can recall one instance +of a horse dying on Alameda Street and lying there until a party of +Indians cut up the carcass for food. What made these street conditions +more trying was the fact that on hot days roads and sidewalks were +devoid of shade, except for that furnished by a few scattered trees or +an occasional projecting veranda; while at night (if I except the +illumination from the few lanterns suspended in front of barrooms and +stores) thoroughfares were altogether unlighted. In those nights of +dark streets and still darker tragedies, people rarely went out unless +equipped with candle-burning lanterns, at least until camphine was +imported by my brother, after which this was brought into general use. +Stores were lighted in the same manner: first with candles, then with +camphine and finally with coal-oil, during which period of advancement +lamps replaced the cruder contrivances. + +Southern California from the first took an active part in State +affairs. Edward Hunter and Charles E. Carr were the Assemblymen from +this district in 1853; and the following year they were succeeded by +Francis Mellus and Dr. Wilson W. Jones. Carr was a lawyer who had come +in 1852; Hunter afterward succeeded Pablo de la Guerra as Marshal. +Jones was the doctor who just about the time I came, while returning +from a professional call at the Lugos at about sunset, nearly rode +over the bleeding and still warm body of a cattle-buyer named Porter, +on Alameda Street. The latter had been out to the Dominguez _rancho_, +to purchase stock, and had taken along with him a Mexican named Manuel +Vergara who introduced himself as an experienced interpreter and +guide, but who was, in reality, a cutthroat with a record of one or +two assassinations. Vergara observed that Porter possessed +considerable money; and on their way back to Los Angeles shot the +American from behind. Jones quickly gave the alarm; and Banning, +Stanley and others of the volunteer mounted police pursued the +murderer for eighty-five or ninety miles when, the ammunition of all +parties being exhausted, Vergara turned on the one Vigilante who had +caught up with him and, with an adroit thrust of his knife, cut the +latter's bridle and escaped. In the end, however, some of Major +Heintzelman's cavalry at Yuma (who had been informed by a fleet Indian +hired to carry the news of the fugitive's flight) overtook Vergara and +shot him dead. These volunteer police or Rangers, as they were called, +were a company of one hundred or more men under command of Dr. A. W. +Hope, and included such well-known early settlers as Nichols, J. G. +Downey, S. C. Foster, Agustin Olvera, Juan Sepúlveda, Horace Bell, M. +Keller, Banning, Benjamin Hayes, F. L. Guirado, David Alexander, J. L. +Brent and I. S. K. Ogier. + +Under the new order of things, too, following the adoption in 1849 of +a State constitution, County organization in Los Angeles was effected; +and by the time I declared myself for American citizenship, several +elections had been held. Benjamin Hayes was District Judge in 1853; +Agustin Olvera was finishing his term as County Judge; Dr. Wilson W. +Jones was County Clerk and Recorder--two offices not separated for +twenty years or until 1873; Lewis Granger was County Attorney; Henry +Hancock was Surveyor; Francis Mellus (who succeeded Don Manuel +Garfias, once the princely owner but bad manager of the San Pasqual +_rancho_), was Treasurer; A. F. Coronel was Assessor; James R. Barton +was Sheriff and also Collector of Taxes; and J. S. Mallard, whose name +was given to Mallard Street, was Coroner. Russell Sackett was a +Justice of the Peace here when I arrived; and after a while Mallard +had a court as Justice, near my store on Commercial Street. All in +all, a group of rather strong men! + +The administrative officials of both the City and the County had their +headquarters in the one-story adobe building at the northwest corner +of Franklin Alley (later called Jail Street[1]) and Spring Street. In +addition to those mentioned, there was a Justice of the Peace, a +_Zanjero_, and a Jailer. António Franco Coronel had but recently +succeeded Nichols as Mayor; A. S. Beard was Marshal and Tax Collector; +Judge William G. Dryden was Clerk; C. E. Carr was Attorney; Ygnácio +Coronel was Assessor; and S. Arbuckle was Treasurer. + +António Franco Coronel, after whom Coronel Street is named, had just +entered upon the duties of Mayor, and was busy enough with the +disposal of donation lots when I first commenced to observe Los +Angeles' government. He came from Mexico to California with his +father, Don Ygnácio F. Coronel; and by 1850 he was the first County +Assessor. He lived at what is now Alameda and Seventh streets, and had +a brother, Manuel, who was City Assessor in 1858. + +Major Henry Hancock, a New Hampshire lawyer and surveyor, came to Los +Angeles in 1852, and at the time of my arrival had just made the +second survey of the city, defining the boundaries of the +thirty-five-acre City lots. I met him frequently, and by 1859 I was +well acquainted with him. He then owed Newmark, Kremer & Company some +money and offered, toward liquidation of the debt, one hundred and ten +acres of land lying along Washington and extending as far as the +present Pico Street. It also reached from Main Street to what is now +Grand Avenue. Newmark, Kremer & Company did not wish the land, and so +arranged with Hancock to take firewood instead. From time to time, +therefore, he brought great logs into town, to be cut up; he also +bought a circular saw, which he installed, with horse-power and +tread-mill, in a vacant lot on Spring Street, back of Joseph Newmark's +second residence. The latter was on Main Street, between First and the +northern junction of Main and Spring; and between this junction and +First Street, it may be interesting to note, there was in 1853 no +thoroughfare from Main to Spring. As I was living there, I acted as +his agent for the sale of the wood that was left after our settlement. +The fact is that Hancock was always land poor, and never out of debt; +and when he was particularly hard up, he parted with his possessions +at whatever price they would bring. The Major (earlier known as +Captain Hancock, who enjoyed his titles through his association with +the militia) retained, however, the celebrated La Brea _rancho_--bought +at a very early date from A. J. Rocha, and lying between the city and +the sea--which he long thought would furnish oil, but little dreamt +would also contain some of the most important prehistoric finds; and +this ranch, once managed by his wife, a daughter of Colonel Augustin +Haraszthy, the San Francisco pioneer, is now owned by his son, George +Allan Hancock. + +George Hansen, to whose far-reaching foresight we owe the Elysian Park +of to-day, was another professional man who was here before I reached +Los Angeles, having come to California in 1850, by way of Cape Horn +and Peru. When he arrived at Los Angeles, in 1853, as he was fond of +recounting, he was too poor to possess even surveying instruments; but +he found a friend in John Temple, who let him have one hundred dollars +at two per cent interest per month, then a very low rate. Thereupon +Hansen sent to San Francisco for the outfit that enabled him to +establish himself. I met Hansen for the first time in the last few +weeks of 1853, when he came to my brother's store to buy a suit of +clothes, his own being in rags. He had been out, very probably, on an +expedition such as subjected a surveyor, particularly in the early +days, to much hard work and fatigue. Hansen, a good student and fine +linguist, was prominent for many years and made more land measurements +hereabouts than did any one else; he had the real management, in fact, +of Hancock's second survey. + +Among others who were here, I might mention the Wheeler brothers. +Colonel John Ozias Wheeler, at various times an office-holder, came to +California from Florida, and having endured many hardships on the trip +along the Mississippi, Arkansas and Gila rivers, arrived at the Chino +_rancho_ on August 12th, 1849, afterward assisting Isaac Williams in +conveying a train of supplies back to the Colorado River. The next +year he was joined by his brother, Horace Z. Wheeler, who came by way +of the Isthmus, and later rose to be Appraiser-General of the Imperial +Customs at Yokohama; and the two young men were soon conducting a +general merchandise business in Los Angeles--if I recollect aright, in +a one-story adobe at the northeast corner of Main and Commercial +streets. Extravagant stories have been printed as to Wheeler's +mercantile operations, one narrative crediting him with sales to the +extent of five thousand dollars or more a day. In those times, +however, no store was large enough to contain such a stock; and two +successive days of heavy sales would have been impossible. In 1851 +Colonel Wheeler, who had been on General Andrés Pico's staff, served +as a Ranger; and in 1853 he organized the first military company in +Los Angeles. + +Manuel Requena, from Yucatan, was another man of influence. He lived +on the east side of Los Angeles Street, north of the thoroughfare +opened through his vineyard and named after him--later extended east +of Los Angeles Street. As early as June, 1836, Requena, then +_Alcalde_, made a census of this district. He was a member of the +first, as well as the second, third, fifth and seventh Common +Councils, and with David W. Alexander was the only member of the first +body to serve out the entire term. In 1852, Requena was elected a +Supervisor. Mrs. Requena was a sister of Mrs. Alexander Bell and Mrs. +James, or Santiago Johnson, and an aunt of Henry and Francis Mellus +and Mrs. J. H. Lander. Requena died on June 27th, 1876, aged +seventy-four years. + +Henry N. Alexander appeared in Los Angeles at about the same time that +I did--possibly afterward--and was very active as a Ranger. He too +occupied positions of trust, in business as well as public life, being +both City and County Treasurer--in the latter case, preceding Maurice +Kremer. It is not surprising, therefore, that he became Wells Fargo & +Company's agent when much uphill work had to be done to establish +their interests here. He married a daughter of Don Pedro Dominguez. +Alexander moved to Arizona, after which I lost track of him. + +John W. Shore, who was here in 1853, was County Clerk from 1854 to +1857, and again from 1860 to 1863. He always canvassed for votes on +horseback until, one day, he fell off and broke his leg, necessitating +amputation. This terminated his active campaigns; but through sympathy +he was reëlected, and by a larger majority. Shore was a Democrat. + +Mention of public officials leads me to speak of an interesting +personality long associated with them. On the west side of Spring +Street near First, where the Schumacher Building now stands, John +Schumacher conducted, in a single room, as was then common, a grocery +store and bar. A good-hearted, honest German of the old school, and a +first-class citizen, he had come from Würtemberg to America, and then, +with Stevenson's Regiment, to California, arriving in Los Angeles in +1847 or 1848. From here he went to Sutter's Creek, where he found a +nugget of gold worth eight hundred dollars, for which he was offered +land in San Francisco later worth millions--a tender which the +Würtemberger declined; and the same year that I arrived, he returned +to Los Angeles, whose activity had increased considerably since he had +last seen it. In 1855, Schumacher married Fräulein Mary Uhrie, from +which union six children including two sons, John and Frank G. +Schumacher, were born. The eldest daughter became Mrs. Edward A. +Preuss. Schumacher established his store, having bought nearly the +whole block bounded by Spring and First streets and Franklin Alley +for the value of his famous gold nugget; and there he remained until +the early seventies, the Schumacher Block being built, as I have said, +on a part of the property. Mrs. Schumacher in 1880 met with a tragic +death: while at the railway station in Merced, she was jolted from the +platform of a car and was instantly killed. + +For something else, however, Schumacher was especially known. When he +returned in 1853, he put on sale the first lager beer introduced into +Los Angeles, importing the same from San Francisco, of which +enterprise the genial German was proud; but Schumacher acquired even +more fame for a drink that he may be said to have invented, and which +was known to the early settlers as _Peach and Honey_. It contained a +good mixture with peach brandy, and was a great favorite, especially +with politicians and frequenters of the neighboring Courthouse, +including well-known members of the Bar, all of whom crowded John's +place, "between times," to enjoy his much-praised concoction. Whenever +in fact anyone had a cold, or fancied that he was going to be so +afflicted, he hastened to John for his reputedly-certain cure. +Schumacher, who served as Councilman in 1855, 1856 and 1857, was +proficient in languages and, as an interpreter, often gave his time +and services freely in assisting his less-gifted neighbors, +particularly the poor and unfortunate, to straighten out their +affairs. In the fall of 1860, he had a narrow escape through the +carelessness of a customer who threw a lighted match into a can of +powder. Schumacher owned some acreage in what was known as the Green +Meadows, a section located near what is now South Figueroa Street; and +this land he held with Jacob Bell, who was assassinated, as I shall +relate, by a Frenchman named Lachenais--hanged, in turn, by an +exasperated mob. + +Most political meetings of that period took place at the Plaza home of +Don Ygnácio Del Valle, first County Recorder. From 1841, Don Ygnácio +lived for some time on the San Francisco _rancho_ granted by the King +of Spain to his father and confirmed by patent in 1875. He also owned +the more famous Camulos _rancho_ on the Santa Clara River, consisting +of several thousand acres north and west of Newhall, afterward +selected by Helen Hunt Jackson as the setting for some of the scenes +in her novel, _Ramona_; and these possessions made him a man of great +importance. During his later life, when he had abandoned his town +residence, Del Valle dwelt in genteel leisure at the _rancho_, dying +there in 1880; and I will not miss this opportunity to attest his +patrician bearing and genial qualities. + +At the time of my arrival, there was but one voting precinct and the +polling place was located at the old municipal and County adobe +already spoken of; although later a second polls was established at +the Round House. Inside the room sat the election judges and clerks; +outside a window stood the jam of voters. The window-sill +corresponded to the thickness of the adobe wall, and was therefore +about three feet deep. This sill served as a table, upon it being +placed a soap- or candle-box, into which a hole had been cut for the +deposit of the votes. + +There was also no register, either great or small, and anyone could +vote. Each party printed its own tickets; and so could any candidate. +This resulted in great confusion, since there were always many tickets +in the field--as many, in fact, as there were candidates; yet the +entire proceeding had become legalized by custom. The candidate of one +party could thus use the ticket of the other, substituting his own +name for his opponent's, and leaving all of the remainder of the +ticket unchanged; in addition to which there was such a lack of +uniformity in the size and color of the ballots as greatly to add to +the confusion in counting. + +To make matters worse, the ballot-box was not easily reached because +of the crowd which was made up largely of the candidates and their +friends. Challenging was the order of the day; yet, after crimination +and recrimination, the votes were generally permitted to be cast. +Although it is true, of course, that many votes were legitimate, yet +aliens such as Mexicans, who had not even considered the question of +taking out citizenship papers, were permitted to vote while Indians +and half-breeds, who were not eligible to citizenship at all, were +irregularly given the franchise. The story is told of an election not +far from Los Angeles at which a whole tribe of Indians was voted; +while on another occasion the names on a steamer's passenger-list were +utilized by persons who had already voted, that very day, once or +twice! Cutting off the hair, shaving one's beard or mustache, +reclothing or otherwise transforming the appearance of the +voter--these were some of the tricks then practiced, which the new +registry law of 1866 only partially did away with. + +Sonorans, who had recently arrived from Mexico, as well as the aliens +I have mentioned, were easy subjects for the political manipulator. +The various candidates, for example, would round-up these prospective +voters like so many cattle, confine them in corrals (usually in the +neighborhood of Boyle Heights), keep them in a truly magnificent state +of intoxication until the eventful morning, and then put them in +stages hired from either Banning or Tomlinson for the purpose; and +from the time the temporary prisoners left the corral until their +votes had been securely deposited, they were closely watched by +guards. On reaching the voting place, the captives were unloaded from +the stage like so much inanimate baggage, and turned over to friends +of the candidate to whom, so to speak, for the time being they +belonged. One at a time, these creatures were led to vote; and as each +staggered to the ballot-box, a ticket was held up and he was made to +deposit it. Once having served the purpose, he was turned loose and +remained free until another election unless, as I have intimated, he +and his fellows were again corralled and made to vote a second or even +a third time the same day. + +Nearly all influential Mexicans were Democrats, so that this party +easily controlled the political situation; from which circumstance a +certain brief campaign ended in a most amusing manner. It happened +that Thomas H. Workman, brother of William H., once ran for County +Clerk, although he was not a Democrat. Billy was naturally much +interested in his brother's candidacy, and did what he could to help +him. On the evening before election, he rented a corral--located near +what is now Macy Street and Mission Road, on property later used by +Charles F., father of Alfred Stern, and for years in partnership with +L. J. Rose; and there, with the assistance of some friends, he herded +together about one hundred docile though illegal voters, most of whom +were Indians, kept them all night and, by supplying fire-water +liberally, at length led them into the state of bewilderment necessary +for such an occasion. The Democratic leaders, however, having learned +of this magnificent _coup_, put their heads together and soon resolved +to thwart Billy's plan. In company with some prominent Mexican +politicians led by Tomás Sanchez, they loaded themselves into a stage +and visited the corral; and once arrived there, those that could made +such flowery stump speeches in the native language of the horde that, +in fifteen or twenty minutes, they had stampeded the whole band! Billy +entered a vigorous protest, saying that the votes were _his_ and that +it was a questionable and even a damnable trick; but all his protests +were of no avail: the bunch of corralled voters had been captured in a +body by the opposition, deciding the contest. These were the methods +then in vogue in accordance with which it was considered a perfectly +legitimate transaction to buy votes, and there was no secret made of +the _modus operandi_ by either party. + +During these times of agitated politics, newspapers (such as they +were) played an important part. In them were published letters written +by ambitious candidates to themselves and signed, "The People," "A +Disinterested Citizen," or some equally anonymous phrase. As an +exception to the usual maneuver, however, the following witty +announcement was once printed by an office-seeker: + + George N. Whitman, not having been requested by "Many + Friends," or solicited by "Many Voters," to become a + candidate for the office of Township Constable, at the end + of the ensuing September election, offers himself. + +Here I am reminded of an anecdote at the expense of John Quincy Adams +Stanley, who in 1856 ran for Sheriff against David W. Alexander, and +was County Assessor in the middle seventies. Stanley was a very +decent but somewhat over-trusting individual; and ignoring suggestions +as to expenditures for votes, too readily believed promises of support +by the voters of the county, almost every one of whom gave him a +favorable pledge in the course of the campaign. When the ballots were +counted, however, and Stanley learned that he had received just about +fifty votes, he remarked, rather dryly: "I didn't know that there were +so many _damned liars_ in the county!" + +Another interesting factor in early elections was the vote of +Teháchepi, then in Los Angeles County. About thirty votes were cast +there; but as communication with Los Angeles was irregular, it was +sometimes necessary to wait a week or more to know what bearing the +decision of Teháchepi had on the general result. + +FOOTNOTE: + +[1] In April, 1872, officially named Franklin Street. + + + + +CHAPTER V + +LAWYERS AND COURTS + +1853 + + +In the primitive fifties there were but comparatively few reputable +lawyers in this neighborhood; nor was there, perhaps, sufficient call +for their services to insure much of a living to many more. To a +greater extent even than now, attorneys were called "Judge;" and at +the time whereof I write, the most important among them were Jonathan +R. Scott, Benjamin Hayes, J. Lancaster Brent, Myron Norton, General +Ezra Drown, Benjamin S. Eaton, Cameron E. Thom, James H. Lander, Lewis +Granger, Isaac Stockton, Keith Ogier, Edward J. C. Kewen and Joseph R. +Gitchell. In addition to these, there was a lawyer named William G. +Dryden, of whom I shall presently speak, and one Kimball H. Dimmick, +who was largely devoted to criminal practice. + +Scott, who had been a prominent lawyer in Missouri, stood very high, +both as to physique and reputation. In addition to his great stature, +he had a splendid constitution and wonderful vitality and was +identified with nearly every important case. About March, 1850, he +came here an overland emigrant, and was made one of the two justices +of the peace who formed, with the county judge, on June 24th, the +first Court of Sessions. He then entered into partnership with +Benjamin Hayes, continuing in joint practice with him until April, +1852, after which he was a member successively of the law firms of +Scott & Granger, Scott & Lander, and Scott, Drown & Lander. +Practicing law in those days was not without its difficulties, partly +because of the lack of law-books; and Scott used to tell in his own +vehement style how, on one occasion, when he was defending a French +sea captain against charges preferred by a rich Peruvian passenger, he +was unable to make much headway because there was but one volume +(Kent's _Commentaries_) in the whole pueblo that threw any light, so +to speak, on the question; which lack of information induced _Alcalde_ +Stearns to decide against Scott's client. Although the Captain lost, +he nevertheless counted out to Scott, in shining gold-pieces, the full +sum of one thousand dollars as a fee. In 1859, a daughter of Scott +married Alfred Beck Chapman, a graduate of West Point, who came to Los +Angeles and Fort Tejón, as an officer, about 1854. Chapman later +studied law with Scott, and for twenty years practiced with Andrew +Glassell. In 1863, Chapman succeeded M. J. Newmark as City Attorney; +and in 1868, he was elected District Attorney. If I recollect rightly, +Scott died in the sixties, survived by Mrs. Scott--a sister of both +Mrs. J. S. Mallard and Mrs. J. G. Nichols--and a son, J. R. Scott, +admitted in 1880 to practice in the Supreme Court. + +Hayes was District Judge when I came, and continued as such for ten or +twelve years. His jurisdiction embraced Los Angeles, San Diego, San +Luis Obispo and Santa Bárbara counties; and the latter section then +included Ventura County. The Judge had regular terms in these +districts and was compelled to hold court at all of the County seats. +A native of Baltimore, Hayes came to Los Angeles on February 3d, +1850--followed on St. Valentine's Day, 1852, by his wife whose journey +from St. Louis, _via_ New Orleans, Havana and Panamá, consumed +forty-three days on the steamers. He was at once elected the first +County Attorney, and tried the famous case against the Irving party. +About the same time Hayes formed his partnership with Scott. In +January, 1855, and while District Judge, Hayes sentenced the murderer +Brown; and in 1858 he presided at Pancho Daniel's trial. Hayes +continued to practice for many years, and was known as a jurist of +high standing, though on account of his love for strong drink, court +on more than one occasion had to be adjourned. During his residence +here, he was known as an assiduous collector of historical data. He +was a brother of both Miss Louisa Hayes, the first woman public-school +teacher in Los Angeles, later the wife of Dr. J. S. Griffin, and Miss +Helena Hayes, who married Benjamin S. Eaton. Judge Hayes died on +August 4th, 1877. + +Brent, a native of the South, was also a man of attainment, arriving +here in 1850 with a fairly representative, though inadequate library, +and becoming in 1855 and 1856 a member of the State Assembly. He had +such wonderful influence, as one of the Democratic leaders, that he +could nominate at will any candidate; and being especially popular +with the Mexican element, could also tell a good story or two about +fees. When trouble arose in 1851 between several members of the Lugo +family and the Indians, resulting finally in an attempted +assassination and the narrow escape from death of Judge Hayes (who was +associated with the prosecution of the case), several of the Lugos +were tried for murder; and Brent, whose defense led to their +acquittal, received something like twenty thousand dollars for his +services. He was of a studious turn of mind and acquired most of Hugo +Reid's Indian library. When the Civil War broke out, Brent went South +again and became a Confederate brigadier-general. Brent Street bears +his name. + +Norton, a Vermonter, who had first practiced law in New York, then +migrated west, and had later been a prime mover for, and a member of, +the first California Constitutional Convention, and who was afterward +Superior Court Judge at San Francisco, was an excellent lawyer, when +sober, and a good fellow. He came to the Coast in the summer of 1848, +was made First Lieutenant and Chief-of-Staff of the California +Volunteers, and drifted in 1852 from Monterey to Los Angeles. He +joined Bean's Volunteers, and in 1857 delivered here a flowery Fourth +of July oration. Norton was the second County Judge, succeeding +Agustin Olvera and living with the latter's family at the Plaza; and +it was from Norton's Court of Sessions, in May, 1855, that the +dark-skinned Juan Flores was sent to the State prison, although few +persons suspected him to be guilty of such criminal tendencies as he +later developed. Norton died in Los Angeles in 1887; and Norton Avenue +recalls his life and work. + +Judge Hayes' successor, Don Pablo de la Guerra, was born in the +_presidio_ of Santa Bárbara in 1819, a member of one of the most +popular families of that locality. Although a Spaniard of the +Spaniards, he had been educated in an Eastern college, and spoke +English fluently. Four times he was elected State Senator from Santa +Bárbara and San Luis Obispo, and was besides a member of the +Constitutional Convention of 1849. Late in 1863, he was a candidate +for District Judge when a singular opposition developed that might +easily have led, in later years at least, to his defeat. A large part +of the population of Santa Bárbara was related to him by blood or +marriage; and it was argued that, if elected, De la Guerra in many +cases would be disqualified from sitting as judge. On January 1st, +1864, however, Don Pablo took up the work as District Judge where +Hayes surrendered it. Just as De la Guerra in 1854 had resigned in +favor of Hunter, before completing his term as United States Marshal, +so now toward the end of 1873, De la Guerra withdrew on account of +ill-health from the district judgeship, and on February 5th, 1874, he +died. + +Drown was a lawyer who came here a few months before I did, having +just passed through one of those trying ordeals which might easily +prove sufficient to destroy the courage and ambition of any man. He +hailed from Iowa, where he had served as Brigadier-General of Militia, +and was bound up the Coast from the Isthmus on the steamer +_Independence_ when it took fire, off Lower California, and burned to +the water's edge. General Drown, being a good swimmer and a plucky +fellow, set his wife adrift on a hencoop and then put off for shore +with his two children on his back. Having deposited them safely on the +beach, he swam back to get his wife; but a brutal fellow-passenger +pushed the fainting woman off when her agonized husband was within a +few feet of her; she sank beneath the waves, and he saw his companion +go to her doom at the moment she was about to be rescued. Though +broken in spirit, Drown on landing at San Pedro came to Los Angeles +with his two boys, and put his best foot forward. He established +himself as a lawyer and in 1858 became District Attorney, succeeding +Cameron E. Thom; and it was during his term that Pancho Daniel was +lynched. In 1855, too, Drown instituted the first Los Angeles lodge of +Odd Fellows. Drown was an able lawyer, eloquent and humorous, and +fairly popular; but his generosity affected his material prosperity, +and he died, at San Juan Capistrano, on August 17th, 1863, none too +blessed with this world's goods. + +Dimmick, who at one time occupied an office in the old Temple Block on +Main Street, had rather an eventful career. Born in Connecticut, he +learned the printer's trade; then he studied law and was soon admitted +to practice in New York; and in 1846 he sailed with Colonel J. D. +Stevenson, in command of Company K, landing, six months later, at the +picturesquely-named Yerba Buena, on whose slopes the bustling town of +San Francisco was so soon to be founded. When peace with Mexico was +established, Dimmick moved to San José; after which with Foster he +went to the convention whose mission was to frame a State +constitution, and was later chosen Judge of the Supreme Court. In +1852, after having revisited the East and been defrauded of +practically all he possessed by those to whom he had entrusted his +California affairs, Dimmick came to Los Angeles and served as Justice +of the Peace, Notary Public and County Judge. He was also elected +District Attorney, and at another time was appointed by the Court to +defend the outlaw, Pancho Daniel. Dimmick's practice was really +largely criminal, which frequently made him a defender of +horse-thieves, gamblers and desperadoes; and in such cases one could +always anticipate his stereotyped plea: + + Gentlemen of the Jury: The District Attorney prosecuting my + client is paid by the County to convict this prisoner, + whether he be guilty or innocent; and I plead with you, + gentlemen, in the name of Impartial Justice, to bring in a + verdict of "Not guilty!" + +Through the help of his old-time friend, Secretary William H. Seward, +Dimmick toward the end of his life was appointed Attorney for the +Southern District of the United States in California; but on September +11th, 1861, he suddenly died of heart disease. + +Eaton, another prominent representative of the Bar, came from New +England as early as 1850, while California government was in its +infancy and life anything but secure; and he had not been here more +than a few months when the maneuvers of António Garra, Agua Caliente's +chief, threatened an insurrection extending from Tulare to San Diego +and made necessary the organization, under General J. H. Bean, of +volunteers to allay the terror-stricken community's fears. Happily, +the company's chief activity was the quieting of feminine nerves. On +October 3d, 1853, Eaton was elected District Attorney and in 1857, +County Assessor. Later, after living for a while at San Gabriel, Eaton +became a founder of the Pasadena colony, acting as its President for +several years; and in 1876 he was one of the committee to arrange for +the local Centennial celebration. Frederick Eaton, several times City +Engineer and once--in 1899-1900--Mayor of Los Angeles, is a son of +Benjamin Eaton and his first wife, Helena Hayes, who died a few years +after she came here, and the brother of Mrs. Hancock Johnston. He +reflects no little credit on his father by reason of a very early, +effective advocacy of the Owens River Aqueduct. Under his +administration, the City began this colossal undertaking, which was +brought to a happy consummation in the year 1913 through the +engineering skill of William Mulholland, Eaton's friend. In 1861, +Judge Eaton married Miss Alice Taylor Clark, of Providence, R. I., who +is still living. + + [Illustration: Henry Mellus + From a Daguerrotype] + + [Illustration: Francis Mellus + From a Daguerrotype] + + [Illustration: John G. Downey] + + [Illustration: Charles L. Ducommun] + + [Illustration: The Plaza Church + From a photograph, probably taken in the middle eighties] + +While I am upon this subject of lawyers and officialdom, a few words +regarding early jurists and court decorum may be in order. In 1853, +Judge Dryden, who had arrived in 1850, was but a Police Justice, not +yet having succeeded Dimmick as County Judge; and at no time was his +knowledge of the law and things pertaining thereto other than +extremely limited. His audacity, however, frequently sustained him in +positions that otherwise might have been embarrassing; and this +audacity was especially apparent in Dryden's strong opposition to +the criminal element. He talked with the volubility of a Gatling gun, +expressing himself in a quick, nervous manner and was, besides, very +profane. One day he was trying a case, when Captain Cameron E. Thom +(who had first come to Los Angeles in 1854, as the representative of +the National Government, to take testimony before Commissioner +Burrill) was one of the attorneys. During the progress of the case, +Thom had occasion to read a lengthy passage from some statute book. +Interrupting him, the Judge asked to see the weighty volume; when, +having searched in vain for the citation, he said in his +characteristic, jerky way: + +"I'll be ---- _damned_, Mr. Thom, if I can find that law!" + +All of which recalls to me a report, once printed in the _Los Angeles +Star_, concerning this same jurist and an inquest held by him over a +dead Indian: + + Justice Dryden and the Jury sat on the body. The verdict + was: "Death from intoxication, _or_ by the visitation of + God!" + +Dryden, who was possessed of a genial personality, was long remembered +with pleasure for participation in Fourth of July celebrations and +processions. He was married, I believe, in 1851, only one year after +he arrived here, to Señorita Dolores Nieto; and she having died, he +took as his second wife, in September, 1868, another Spanish lady, +Señorita Anita Dominguez, daughter of Don Manuel Dominguez. Less than +a year afterward, on September 10th, 1869, Judge Dryden himself died +at the age of seventy years. + +Thom, by the way, came from Virginia in 1849 and advanced rapidly in +his profession. It was far from his expectation to remain in Los +Angeles longer than was necessary; and he has frequently repeated to +me the story of his immediate infatuation with this beautiful section +and its cheering climate, and how he fell in love with the quaint +little pueblo at first sight. Soon after he decided to remain here, he +was assigned as associate counsel to defend Pancho Daniel, after the +retirement of Columbus Sims. In 1856, Thom was appointed both City +and District Attorney, and occupied the two positions at the same +time--an odd situation which actually brought it about, during his +tenure of offices, that a land dispute between the City and the County +obliged Thom to defend both interests! In 1863, he was a partner with +A. B. Chapman; and twenty years later, having previously served as +State Senator, he was elected Mayor of the city. Captain Thom married +two sisters--first choosing Miss Susan Henrietta Hathwell, and then, +sometime after her death, leading to the altar Miss Belle Cameron +Hathwell whom he had named and for whom, when she was baptized, he had +stood godfather. A man ultimately affluent, he owned, among other +properties, a large ranch at Glendale.[2] + +Another good story concerning Judge Dryden comes to mind, recalling a +certain Sheriff. As the yarn goes, the latter presented himself as a +candidate for the office of Sheriff; and in order to capture the vote +of the native element, he also offered to marry the daughter of an +influential Mexican. A bargain was concluded and, as the result, he +forthwith assumed the responsibilities and dangers of both shrieval +and matrimonial life. + +Before the Sheriff had possessed this double dignity very long, +however, a gang of horse-thieves began depredations around Los +Angeles. A _posse_ was immediately organized to pursue the +desperadoes, and after a short chase they located the band and brought +them into Los Angeles. Imagine the Sheriff's dismay, when he found +that the leader was none other than his own brother-in-law whom he had +never before seen! + +To make the story short, the case was tried and the prisoner was found +guilty; but owing to influence (to which most juries in those days +were very susceptible) there was an appeal for judicial leniency. +Judge Dryden, therefore, in announcing the verdict, said to the +Sheriff's brother-in-law, "The jury finds you guilty as charged," and +then proceeded to read the prisoner a long and severe lecture, to +which he added: "But the jury recommends clemency. Accordingly, I +declare you a free man, and you may go about your business." Thereupon +someone in the room asked: "What _is_ his business?" To which the +Judge, never flinching, shouted: "_Horse-stealing_, sir! +_horse-stealing!_" + +Lander was here in 1853, having come from the East the year previous. +He was a Harvard College graduate--there were not many on the Coast in +those days--and was known as a good office-practitioner; he was for +some time, in fact, the Bar's choice for Court Commissioner. I think +that, for quite a while, he was the only examiner of real estate +titles; he was certainly the only one I knew. On October 15th, 1852, +Lander had married Señorita Margarita, a daughter of Don Santiago +Johnson, who was said to have been one of the best known business men +prior to 1846. Afterward Lander lived in a cottage on the northeast +corner of Fourth and Spring streets. This cottage he sold to I. W. +Hellman in the early seventies, for four thousand dollars; and +Hellman, in turn, sold it at cost to his brother. On that lot, worth +to-day probably a million dollars, the H. W. Hellman Building now +stands. Lander died on June 10th, 1873. + +Granger was still another lawyer who was here when I arrived, he +having come with his family--one of the first American households to +be permanently established here--in 1850. By 1852, he had formed a +partnership with Jonathan R. Scott, and in that year attained +popularity through his Fourth of July oration. Granger was, in fact, a +fluent and attractive speaker, which accounted, perhaps, for his +election as City Attorney in 1855, after he had served the city as a +member of the Common Council in 1854. If I recollect aright, he was a +candidate for the district judgeship in the seventies, but was +defeated. + +Ogier, a lawyer from Charleston, S. C., came to California in 1849, +and to Los Angeles in 1851, forming a partnership on May 31st of that +year with Don Manuel Clemente Rojo, a clever, genial native of Peru. +On September 29th, Ogier succeeded William C. Ferrell, the first +District Attorney; in 1853, he joined the voluntary police; and later +served, for some years, as United States District Judge. He died at +Holcombe Valley in May, 1861. Ogier Street, formerly Ogier Lane, was +named for him. Rojo, after dividing his time between the law and the +Spanish editorial work on the _Star_, wandered off to Lower California +and there became a "sub-political chief." + +Kewen, a native of Mississippi and a veteran of the Mexican War, came +to Los Angeles in 1858 with the title of Colonel, after _fiasco_ +followed his efforts, in the Southern States, to raise relief for the +filibuster Walker, on whose expedition A. L. Kewen, a brother, had +been killed in the battle at Rivas, Nicaragua, in June, 1855. Once a +practitioner at law in St. Louis, Kewen was elected California's first +Attorney-General, and even prior to the delivery of his oration before +the Society of Pioneers at San Francisco, in 1854, he was +distinguished for his eloquence. In 1858, he was Superintendent of Los +Angeles City Schools. In the sixties, Kewen and Norton formed a +partnership. Settling on an undulating tract of some four hundred and +fifty acres near San Gabriel, including the ruins of the old Mission +mill and now embracing the grounds of the Huntington Hotel, Kewen +repaired the house and converted it into a cosy and even luxurious +residence, calling the estate ornamented with gardens and fountains, +_El Molino_--a title perpetuated in the name of the present suburb. +Kewen was also a member of the State Assembly and, later, District +Attorney. He died in November, 1879. + +Gitchell, United States District Attorney in the late fifties, +practiced here for many years. He was a jolly old bachelor and was +popular, although he did not attain eminence. + +Isaac Hartman, an attorney, and his wife, who were among the +particularly agreeable people here in 1853, soon left for the East. + +Volney E. Howard came with his family in the late fifties. He left San +Francisco, where he had been practicing law, rather suddenly, and at a +time when social conditions in the city were demoralized, and the +citizens, as in the case of the people of Los Angeles, were obliged to +organize a vigilance committee. William T. Coleman, one of the +foremost citizens of his city, led the Northern movement, and M. J. +Newmark, then a resident of San Francisco, was among those who +participated. Howard, who succeeded William T., afterward General +Sherman in leading the Law and Order contingent, opposed the idea of +mob rule; but the people of San Francisco, fully alive to the +necessity of wiping out the vicious elements, and knowing how hard it +was to get a speedy trial and an honest jury, had little sympathy with +his views. He was accordingly ordered out of town, and made his way, +first to Sacramento, then to the South. Here, with Kewen as their +neighbor, Howard and his talented wife, a lady of decidedly +blue-stocking tendencies, took up their residence near the San Gabriel +Mission; and he became one of the most reliable attorneys in Los +Angeles, serving once or twice as County Judge and on the Supreme +Court bench, as well as in the State Constitutional Convention of +1878-1879. + +Speaking of the informality of courts in the earlier days, I should +record that jurymen and others would come in coatless and, especially +in warm weather, without vests and collars; and that it was the +fashion for each juryman to provide himself with a jack-knife and a +piece of wood, in order that he might whittle the time away. This was +a recognized privilege, and I am not exaggerating when I say that if +he forgot his piece of wood, it was considered his further prerogative +to whittle the chair on which he sat! In other respects, also, court +solemnity was lacking. Judge and attorneys would frequently lock +horns; and sometimes their disputes ended violently. On one occasion, +for example, while I was in court, Columbus Sims, an attorney who came +here in 1852, threw an inkstand at his opponent, during an +altercation; but this contempt of court did not call forth his +disbarment, for he was later found acting as attorney for Pancho +Daniel, one of Sheriff Barton's murderers, until sickness compelled +his retirement from the case. As to panel-service, I recollect that +while serving as juror in those early days, we were once locked up for +the night; and in order that time might not hang too heavily on our +hands, we engaged in a sociable little game of poker. Sims is dead. + +More than inkstands were sometimes hurled in the early courts. On one +occasion, for instance, after the angry disputants had arrived at a +state of agitation which made the further use of canes, chairs, and +similar objects tame and uninteresting, revolvers were drawn, +notwithstanding the marshal's repeated attempts to restore order. +Judge Dryden, in the midst of the _mêlée_, hid behind the platform +upon which his Judgeship's bench rested; and being well out of the +range of the threatening irons, yelled at the rioters: + +"_Shoot away_, damn you! and to _hell_ with all of you!" + +After making due allowance for primitive conditions, it must be +admitted that many and needless were the evils incidental to court +administration. There was, for instance, the law's delay, which +necessitated additional fees to witnesses and jurors and thus +materially added to the expenses of the County. Juries were always a +mixture of incoming pioneers and natives; the settlers understood very +little Spanish, and the native Californians knew still less English; +while few or none of the attorneys could speak Spanish at all. In +translating testimony, if the interpreter happened to be a friend of +the criminal (which he generally was), he would present the evidence +in a favorable light, and much time was wasted in sifting biased +translations. Of course, there were interpreters who doubtless +endeavored to perform their duties conscientiously. George Thompson +Burrill, the first Sheriff, received fifty dollars a month as court +interpreter, and Manuel Clemente Rojo translated testimony as well; +officials I believe to have been honest and conscientious. + +While alluding to court interpreters and the general use of Spanish +during at least the first decade after I came to California, I am +reminded of the case of Joaquín Carrillo, who was elected District +Judge, in the early fifties, to succeed Judge Henry A. Tefft of Santa +Bárbara, who had been drowned near San Luis Obispo while attempting to +land from a steamer in order to hold court. During the fourteen years +when Carrillo held office, he was constantly handicapped by his little +knowledge of the English language and the consequent necessity of +carrying on all court proceedings in Spanish, to say nothing of the +fact that he was really not a lawyer. Yet I am told that Carrillo +possessed common sense to such a degree that his decisions were seldom +set aside by the higher courts. + +Sheriff Burrill had a brother, S. Thompson Burrill, who was a lawyer +and a Justice of the Peace. He held court in the Padilla Building on +Main Street, opposite the present site of the Bullard Block and +adjoining my brother's store; and as a result of this proximity we +became friendly. He was one of the best-dressed men in town, although, +when I first met him, he could not have been less than sixty years of +age. He presented me with my first dog, which I lost on account of +stray poison: evil-disposed or thoughtless persons, with no respect +for the owner, whether a neighbor or not, and without the slightest +consideration for pedigree, were in the habit of throwing poison on +the streets to kill off canines, of which there was certainly a +superabundance. + +Ygnácio Sepúlveda, the jurist and a son of José Andrés Sepúlveda, was +living here when I arrived, though but a boy. Born in Los Angeles in +1842, he was educated in the East and in 1863 admitted to the Bar; he +served in the State Legislature of the following winter, was County +Judge from 1870 to 1873, and District Judge in 1874. Five years later +he was elected Superior Judge, but resigned his position in 1884 to +become Wells Fargo & Company's representative in the City of Mexico, +at which capital for two years he was also American _Chargé +d'Affaires_. There to my great pleasure I met him, bearing his honors +modestly, in January, 1885, during my tour of the southern +republic.[3] Sepúlveda Avenue is named for the family. + +Horace Bell was a nephew of Captain Alexander Bell, of Bell's Row; and +as an early comer to Los Angeles, he joined the volunteer mounted +police. Although for years an attorney and journalist, in which +capacity he edited the _Porcupine_, he is best known for his +_Reminiscences of a Ranger_, a volume written in rather a breezy and +entertaining style, but certainly containing exaggerations. + +This reference to the Rangers reminds me that I was not long in Los +Angeles when I heard of the adventures of Joaquín Murieta, who had +been killed but a few months before I came. According to the stories +current, Murieta, a nephew of José María Valdez, was a decent-enough +sort of fellow, who had been subjected to more or less injustice from +certain American settlers, and who was finally bound to a tree and +horsewhipped, after seeing his brother hung, on a trumped-up charge. +In revenge, Murieta had organized a company of bandits, and for two or +three years had terrorized a good part of the entire State. Finally, +in August, 1853, while the outlaw and several of his companions were +off their guard near the Tejón Paso, they were encountered by Captain +Harry Love and his volunteer mounted police organized to get him, +"dead or alive;" the latter killed Murieta and another desperado known +as Three-fingered Jack. Immediately the outlaws were despatched, their +heads and the deformed hand of Three-fingered Jack were removed from +the bodies and sent by John Sylvester and Harry Bloodsworth to Dr. +William Francis Edgar, then a surgeon at Fort Miller; but a flood +interfering, Sylvester swam the river with his barley sack and its +gruesome contents. Edgar put the trophies into whiskey and arsenic, +when they were transmitted to the civil authorities, as vouchers for a +reward. Bloodsworth died lately. + +Daredevils of a less malicious type were also resident among us. On +the evening of December 31st, 1853, for example, I was in our store at +eight o'clock when Felipe Rheim--often called Reihm and even +Riehm--gloriously intoxicated and out for a good time, appeared on the +scene, flourishing the ubiquitous weapon. His celebration of the New +Year had apparently commenced, and he was already six sheets in the +wind. Like many another man, Felipe, a very worthy German, was +good-natured when sober, but a terror when drunk; and as soon as he +spied my solitary figure, he pointed his gun at me, saying, at the +same time, in his vigorous native tongue, "Treat, or _I shoot_!" I +treated. After this pleasing transaction amid the smoky obscurity of +Ramón Alexander's saloon, Felipe fired his gun into the air and +disappeared. Startling as a demand like that might appear to-day, no +thought of arrest then resulted from such an incident. + +The first New Year's Eve that I spent in Los Angeles was ushered in +with the indiscriminate discharging of pistols and guns. This method +of celebrating was, I may say, a novelty to me, and no less a +surprise; for of course I was unaware of the fact that, when the city +was organized, three years before, a proposition to prohibit the +carrying of firearms of any sort, or the shooting off of the same, +except in defense of self, home or property, had been stricken from +the first constitution by the committee on police, who reported that +such an ordinance could not at that time be enforced. Promiscuous +firing continued for years to be indulged in by early Angeleños, +though frequently condemned in the daily press, and such was its +effect upon even me that I soon found myself peppering away at a +convenient adobe wall on Commercial Street, seeking to perfect my aim! + + +FOOTNOTES: + +[2] Thom died on February 2d, 1915. + +[3] After an absence of thirty years, Judge Sepúlveda returned to Los +Angeles, in 1914, and was heartily welcomed back by his many friends +and admirers. + + + + +CHAPTER VI + +MERCHANTS AND SHOPS + +1853 + + +Trivial events in a man's life sometimes become indelibly impressed on +his memory; and one such experience of my own is perhaps worth +mentioning as another illustration of the rough character of the +times. One Sunday, a few days after my arrival, my brother called upon +a tonsorial celebrity, Peter Biggs, of whom I shall speak later, +leaving me in charge of the store. There were two entrances, one on +Main Street, the other on Requena. I was standing at the Main Street +door, unconscious of impending excitement, when a stranger rode up on +horseback and, without the least hesitation or warning, pointed a +pistol at me. I was not sufficiently amused to delay my going, but +promptly retreated to the other door where the practical joker, +astride his horse, had easily anticipated my arrival and again greeted +me with the muzzle of his weapon. These maneuvers were executed a +number of times, and my ill-concealed trepidation only seemed to +augment the diversion of a rapidly-increasing audience. My brother +returned in the midst of the fun and asked the jolly joker what in +hell he meant by such behavior; to which he replied: "Oh, I just +wanted to frighten the boy!" + +Soon after this incident, my brother left for San Francisco; and his +partner, Jacob Rich, accompanied by his wife, came south and rented +rooms in what was then known as Mellus's Row, an adobe building for +the most part one-story, standing alone with a garden in the rear, +and occupying about three hundred feet on the east side of Los Angeles +Street, between Aliso and First. In this row, said by some to have +been built by Barton & Nordholt, in 1850, for Captain Alexander Bell, +a merchant here since 1842, after whom Bell Street is named, and by +others claimed to have been the headquarters of Frémont, in 1846, +there was a second-story at the corner of Aliso, provided with a large +veranda; and there the Bell and Mellus families lived. Francis Mellus, +who arrived in California in 1839, had married the niece of Mrs. Bell, +and Bell having sold the building to Mellus, Bell's Row became known +as Mellus's Row. Finally, Bell repurchased the property, retaining it +during the remainder of his life; and the name was again changed. This +famous stretch of adobe, familiarly known as The Row, housed many +early shopkeepers, such as Ferner & Kraushaar, general merchants, +Kalisher & Wartenberg, and Bachman & Bauman. The coming to Los Angeles +of Mr. and Mrs. Rich enabled me to abandon La Rue's restaurant, as I +was permitted to board with them. None the less, I missed my brother +very much. + +Everything at that time indicating that I was in for a commercial +career, it was natural that I should become acquainted with the +merchants then in Los Angeles. Some of the tradesmen, I dare say, I +have forgotten; but a more or less distinct recollection remains of +many, and to a few of them I shall allude. + +Temple Street had not then been opened by Beaudry and Potts, although +there was a little _cul-de-sac_ extending west from Spring Street; and +at the junction of what is now Spring and Temple streets, there was a +two-story adobe building in which D. W. Alexander and Francis Mellus +conducted a general merchandise business, and at one time acted as +agents for Mellus & Howard of San Francisco. Mellus, who was born in +Salem, Massachusetts, February 3d, 1824, came to the Coast in 1839, +first landing at Santa Bárbara; and when I first met him he had +married Adelaida, daughter of Don Santiago Johnson, and our +fellow-townsman, James J. Mellus--familiarly known as plain Jim--was +a baby. Alexander & Mellus had rather an extensive business in the +early days, bringing goods by sailing vessel around Cape Horn, and +exchanging them for hides and tallow which were carried back East by +the returning merchantmen. They had operated more or less extensively +even some years before California was ceded to the United States; but +competition from a new source forced these well-established merchants +to retire. With the advent of more frequent, although still irregular +service between San Francisco and the South, and the influx of more +white people, a number of new stores started here bringing merchandise +from the Northern market, while San Francisco buyers began to outbid +Alexander & Mellus for the local supply of hides and tallow. This so +revolutionized the methods under which this tradition-bound old +concern operated that, by 1858, it had succumbed to the inevitable, +and the business passed into the hands of Johnson & Allanson, a firm +made up of Charles R. Johnson, soon to be elected County Clerk, and +Horace S. Allanson. + +Most of the commercial activity in this period was carried on north of +First Street. The native population inhabited Sonora Town, for the +most part a collection of adobes, named after the Mexican state whence +came many of our people; there was a contingent from other parts of +Mexico; and a small sprinkling of South Americans from Chile and Peru. +Among this Spanish-speaking people quite a business was done by +Latin-American storekeepers. It followed, naturally enough, that they +dealt in all kinds of Mexican goods. + +One of the very few white men in this district was José Mascarel (a +powerfully-built French sea-captain and master of the ship that +brought Don Luis Vignes to the Southland), who settled in Los Angeles +in 1844, marrying an Indian woman. He had come with Prudhomme and +others; and under Captain Henseley had taken part in the military +events at San Bartolo and the Mesa. By 1865, when he was Mayor of the +city, he had already accumulated a number of important real estate +holdings and owned, with another Frenchman, Juan Barri, a baker, the +block extending east on the south side of Commercial Street, from +Main to Los Angeles, which had been built in 1861 to take the place of +several old adobes. This the owners later divided, Mascarel taking the +southeast corner of Commercial and Main streets, and Barri the +southwest corner of Commercial and Los Angeles streets. In the +seventies, I. W. Hellman bought the Mascarel corner, and in 1883, the +Farmers & Merchants Bank moved to that location, where it remained +until the institution purchased the southwest corner of Fourth and +Main streets, for the erection of its own building. + +Andrés Ramirez was another Sonora Town merchant. He had come from +Mexico in 1844, and sold general merchandise in what, for a while, was +dubbed the Street of the Maids. Later, this was better known as Upper +Main Street; and still later it was called San Fernando Street. + +Louis Abarca was a tradesman and a neighbor of Ramirez. Prosperous +until the advent of the pioneer, he little by little became poorer, +and finally withdrew from business. + +Juan Bernard, a native of French Switzerland, whose daughter married +D. Botiller, now an important landowner, came to California by way of +the Horn, in search of the precious metal, preceding me to this land +of sunshine. For awhile, he had a brickyard on Buena Vista Street; but +in the late seventies, soon after marrying Señorita Susana Machado, +daughter of Don Agustin Machado, he bought a vineyard on Alameda +Street, picturesquely enclosed by a high adobe or brick wall much +after the fashion of a European _château_. He also came to own the +site of the Natick House. A clever linguist and a man of attractive +personality, he passed away in 1889. + +An American by the name of George Walters lived on Upper Main Street, +among the denizens of which locality he was an influential person. +Born at New Orleans as early as 1809, Walters had trapped and traded +in the Rocky Mountains, then teamed for awhile between Santa Fé and +neighboring points. Near the end of 1844, he left New Mexico in +company with James Waters, Jim Beckwith and other travelers, finally +reaching Los Angeles. Walters, who settled in San Bernardino, was at +the Chino Ranch, with B. D. Wilson and Louis Robidoux, when so many +Americans were made prisoners. + +Julian Chavez, after whom Chavez Street is named, was here in 1853. If +he was not native-born, he came here at a very early day. He owned a +stretch of many acres, about a mile northeast of Los Angeles. He was a +good, honest citizen, and is worthy of recollection. + +Ramón Alexander, a Frenchman often confused with David Alexander, came +to Los Angeles before 1850, while it was still a mere Mexican village. +Pioneers remember him especially as the builder of the long-famous +Round House, on Main Street, and as one who also for some time kept a +saloon near Requena Street. Alexander's wife was a Señorita Valdez. He +died in 1870. + +Antoine Laborie was another Frenchman here before the beginning of the +fifties. He continued to live in Los Angeles till at least the late +seventies. A fellow-countryman, B. Dubordieu, had a bakery in Sonora +Town. + +Philip Rheim, the good-natured German to whom I have referred, had a +little store and saloon, before I came, called _Los dos Amigos_, as +the proprietor of which he was known as Don Felipe. Nor was this title +amiss; for Felipe married a native woman and, German though he had +been, he gradually became, like so many others who had mated in the +same way, more and more Californian in manners and customs. + +A month after I arrived here, John Behn, who had a grocery business at +the northeast corner of First and Los Angeles streets, retired. He had +come to Los Angeles from Baden in 1848, and, after forming one or two +partnerships, had sold out to Lorenzo Leck, a German Dane, who reached +here in November, 1849, and whose son, Henry von der Leck, married a +daughter of Tom Mott and is living at San Juan Capistrano. Leck opened +his own store in 1854, and despite the trials to which he was to be +subjected, he was able, in 1868, to pay John Schumacher three thousand +dollars for a lot on Main Street. Leck had a liking for the +spectacular; and in the November previous to my arrival was active, as +I have been told, with Goller and Nordholt, in organizing the first +political procession seen in Los Angeles. The election of Pierce was +the incentive, and there were gorgeous transparencies provided for the +event. It was on this occasion that a popular local character, George +the Baker, burned himself badly while trying to fire off the +diminutive cannon borrowed from the Spanish _padre_ for the event. + +In the one-story adobe of Mascarel and Barri, on the corner of +Commercial and Main streets, now the site of the United States +National Bank, an Irishman named Samuel G. Arbuckle, who had come here +in 1850 and was associated for a short time with S. Lazard, conducted +a dry goods store. From 1852 to 1856, Arbuckle was City Treasurer. + +In the same building, and adjoining Arbuckle's, John Jones, father of +Mrs. J. B. Lankershim and M. G. Jones, carried on a wholesale grocery +business. Jones had left England for Australia, when forty-seven years +old, and a year later touched the coast of California at Monterey and +came to Los Angeles. Twice a year, Jones went north in a schooner, for +the purpose of replenishing his stock; and after making his purchases +and having the boat loaded, he would return to Los Angeles. Sometimes +he traveled with the round-bellied, short and jolly Captain Morton who +recalled his illustrious prototype, Wouter van Twiller, so humorously +described by Washington Irving as "exactly five feet six inches in +height, and six feet five inches in circumference;" sometimes he +sailed with Captain J. S. Garcia, a good-natured seaman. During his +absence, the store remained closed; and as this trip always required +at least six weeks, some idea may be obtained of the Sleepy Hollow +methods then prevailing in this part of the West. In 1854 or 1855, +Jones, who was reputed to be worth some fifty thousand dollars, went +to San Francisco and married Miss Doria Deighton, and it was generally +understood that he expected to settle there; but having been away for +a couple of years, he returned to the City of the Angels, this being +one of the first instances within my observation of the irresistible +attraction of Los Angeles for those who have once lived here. It is +my recollection that Jones bought from John G. Downey the Cristóbal +Aguilar home then occupied by W. H. and Mrs. Perry; a building the +more interesting since it was understood to have served, long in the +past and before the American occupation, as a _calabozo_ or jail, and +to have had a whipping-post supposed to have done much service in +keeping the turbulently-inclined natives quiet. How many of the old +adobes may at times have been used as jails, I am unable to say, but +it is also related that there stood on the hill west of the Plaza +another _cuartel_, afterward the home of B. S. Eaton, where Fred, +later Mayor of Los Angeles, was born. Like Felix Bachman and others, +Jones entered actively into trade with Salt Lake City; and although he +met with many reverses--notably in the loss of Captain Morton's _Laura +Bevan_, which sank, carrying down a shipload of uninsured goods--he +retired well-to-do. + +John, sometimes called Juan Temple--or Jonathan, as he used to sign +himself in earlier years--who paid the debt of Nature in 1866, and +after whom Temple Street is named, was another merchant, having a +store upon the piece of land (later the site of the Downey Block, and +now occupied by the Post Office) which, from 1849 to 1866, was in +charge of my friend, Don Ygnácio Garcia, his confidential business +agent. Garcia imported from Mexico both _serapes_ and _rebozos_; and +as every Mexican man and woman required one of these garments, Temple +had a large and very lucrative trade in them alone. Following the +death of Temple, Garcia continued under Hinchman, the executor of the +estate, until everything had been settled. + +It was really far back in 1827 when Temple came to Los Angeles, +started the first general merchandise store in town, and soon took +such a lead in local affairs that the first Vigilance Committee in the +city was organized in his store, in 1836. Toward the fifties, he +drifted south to Mexico and there acquired a vast stretch of land on +the coast; but he returned here, and was soon known as one of the +wealthiest, yet one of the stingiest men in all California. His real +estate holdings in or near Los Angeles were enormous; but the bad +judgment of his executor cost him dear, and valuable properties were +sacrificed. After his death, Temple's wife--who once accompanied her +husband to Paris, and had thus formed a liking for the livelier French +capital--returned to France with her daughter, later Doña Ajuria, to +live; and A. F. Hinchman, Temple's brother-in-law, who had been +Superintendent of Santa Bárbara County Schools, was appointed +administrator. Hinchman then resided in San Diego, and was intensely +partial to that place. This may have prejudiced him against Los +Angeles; but whatever the cause, he offered Temple's properties at +ridiculous prices, and some of the items of sale may now be +interesting. + +The present site of the Government Building, embracing as it then did +the forty-foot street north of it, was at that time improved with an +adobe building covering the entire front and running back to New High +Street; and this adobe, known after Temple's death as the Old Temple +Block, Hinchman sold for fifteen thousand dollars. He also disposed of +the new Temple Block, including the improvement at the south end which +I shall describe, for but sixteen thousand dollars. I remember quite +well that Ygnácio Garcia was the purchaser, and that, tiring of his +bargain in a couple of weeks, he resold the property to John Temple's +brother, Francisco, at cost. + +Hinchman, for fourteen thousand dollars, also disposed of the site of +the present Bullard Block, whereon Temple had erected a large brick +building, the lower part of which was used as a market while the upper +part was a theater. The terms in each of these three transactions were +a thousand dollars per annum, with interest at ten per cent. He sold +to the Bixbys the Cerritos _rancho_, containing twenty-six thousand +acres, for twenty thousand dollars. Besides these, there were eighteen +lots, each one hundred and twenty by three hundred and thirty feet, +located on Fort Street (now Broadway), some of which ran through to +Spring and others to Hill, which were bought by J. F. Burns and +William Buffum for one thousand and fifty dollars, or fifty dollars +each for the twelve inside and seventy-five dollars each for the six +corner lots. + +Returning to the Fort Street lots, it may be interesting to know that +the property would be worth to-day--at an average price of four +thousand dollars per foot--about nine million dollars. Eugene Meyer +purchased one of the lots (on the west side of Fort Street, running +through to Hill, one hundred and twenty by three hundred and thirty +feet in size), for the sum of one thousand dollars; and I paid him a +thousand dollars for sixty feet and the same depth. In 1874 I built on +this site the home occupied by me for about twelve years, after which +I improved both fronts for F. L. Blanchard. These two blocks are still +in my possession; the Broadway building is known as Blanchard Hall. +Blanchard, by the way, a comer of 1886, started his Los Angeles career +in A. G. Bartlett's music store, and has since always been closely +identified with art movements. He organized the system of cluster +street-lights in use here and was an early promoter of good roads. + + [Illustration: Pio Pico From an oil portrait] + + [Illustration: Juan Bandini] + + [Illustration: Abel Stearns] + + [Illustration: Isaac Williams] + + [Illustration: Store of Felipe Rheim] + +Charles L. Ducommun was here in business in 1853, he and John G. +Downey having arrived together, three years before. According to the +story still current, Ducommun, with his kit and stock as a watchmaker, +and Downey, with his outfit as a druggist, hired a _carreta_ together, +to transport their belongings from San Pedro to Los Angeles; but the +_carreta_ broke down, and the two pilgrims to the City of the Angels +had to finish their journey afoot. Ducommun's first store, located on +Commercial Street between Main and Los Angeles, was about sixteen by +thirty feet in size, but it contained an astonishing assortment of +merchandise, such as hardware, stationery and jewelry. Perhaps the +fact that Ducommun came from Switzerland, then even more than now the +chief home of watchmaking, explains his early venture in the making +and selling of watches; however that may be, it was to Charlie +Ducommun's that the bankrupt merchant Moreno--later sentenced to +fourteen or fifteen years in the penitentiary for robbing a +Frenchman--came to sell the Frenchman's gold watch. Moreno confessed +that he had organized a gang of robbers, after his failure in +business, and had murdered even his own lieutenants. Ducommun, +pretending to go into a rear room for the money, slipped out of the +back door and gave the alarm. Ducommun's store was a sort of +curiosity-shop containing many articles not obtainable elsewhere; and +he was clever enough, when asked for any rarity, to charge all that +the traffic would bear. I wonder what Charlie Ducommun would say if he +could return to life and see his sons conducting a large, modern +wholesale hardware establishment on an avenue never thought of in his +day and where once stretched acres of fruit and vine lands! Ducommun +Street commemorates this pioneer. + +Ozro W. Childs, who came to Los Angeles in November, 1850, was for +awhile in partnership with J. D. Hicks, the firm being known as Childs +& Hicks. They conducted a tin-shop on Commercial Street, in a building +about twenty by forty feet. In 1861, H. D. Barrows joined them, and +hardware was added to the business. Somewhat later the firm was known +as J. D. Hicks & Company. In 1871, Barrows bought out the Childs and +Hicks interests, and soon formed a partnership with W. C. Furrey, +although the latter arrived in Los Angeles only in 1872. When Barrows +retired, Furrey continued alone for several years. The W. C. Furrey +Company was next organized, with James W. Hellman as the active +partner of Furrey, and with Simon Maier, the meat-packer and brother +of the brewer, and J. A. Graves as stockholders. Hellman, in time, +succeeded this company and continued for himself. When Childs +withdrew, he went in for importing and selling exotic trees and +plants, and made his home place, in more modern days known as the +Huntington Purchase and running from Main to Hill and Eleventh to +Twelfth streets, wonderfully attractive to such tourists as then +chanced this way; he also claimed to be the pioneer floriculturist of +Los Angeles County. Toward the end of his life, Childs erected on Main +Street, south of First, a theater styled an opera house and later +known as the Grand, which was popular in its time. Childs Avenue bears +the family name. + +Labatt Brothers had one of the leading dry goods houses, which, +strange as it may seem, they conducted in a part of the Abel Stearns +home, corner of Main and Arcadia streets, now occupied by the Baker +Block. Their establishment, while the most pretentious and certainly +the most specialized of its day in town, and therefore patronized by +our well-to-do people, would nevertheless make but a sorry appearance +in comparison with even a single department in any of the mammoth +stores of to-day. + +Jacob Elias was not only here in 1853, in partnership with his brother +under the firm name of Elias Brothers, but he also induced some of his +friends in Augusta, Georgia, to migrate to California. Among those who +came in 1854 were Pollock, whose given name I forget, and L. C., +better known as Clem Goodwin. The latter clerked for awhile for Elias +Brothers, after which he associated himself with Pollock under the +title of Pollock & Goodwin. They occupied premises at what was then +the corner of Aliso Street and Nigger Alley, and the site, some years +later, of P. Beaudry's business when we had our interesting contest, +the story of which I shall relate in due time. Pollock & Goodwin +continued in the general merchandise business for a few years, after +which they returned to Augusta. Goodwin, however, came back to +California in 1864 a Benedick, and while in San Francisco accidentally +met Louis Polaski who was then looking for an opening. Goodwin induced +Polaski to enter into partnership with him, and the well-known early +clothing house of Polaski & Goodwin was thus established in the Downey +Block. In 1867, they bought out I. W. Hellman and moved over to the +southeast corner of Commercial and Main streets. Goodwin sold out to +Polaski in 1881, when the firm became Polaski & Sons; in 1883 Sam, +Isidor and Myer L. Polaski bought out their father, and in time +Polaski Brothers also withdrew. Goodwin became Vice-president of the +Farmers & Merchants Bank. Polaski died in 1900, Goodwin having +preceded him a short time before. Goodwin left his wife some valuable +property, and as they were without issue, she so richly endowed the +Children's Hospital, at her death, that the present building was made +possible. + +The Lanfranco brothers--Juan T. and Mateo--came from Genoa, Italy, by +way of Lima, Peru and New York, whence they crossed the Plains with +James Lick the carpenter later so celebrated, and they were both here +in business in 1853; Juan, a small capitalist or _petit rentier_, +living where the Lanfranco Building now stands, opposite the Federal +Building, while Mateo kept a grocery store on Main Street, not far +from Commercial. In 1854, Juan added to his independence by marrying +Señorita Petra Pilar, one of fourteen children of Don José Loreto +Sepúlveda, owner of the Palos Verdes _rancho_; the celebration of the +nuptials, in dancing and feasting, lasting five days. It was at that +ranch that a great stampede of cattle occurred, due to fright when the +pioneer sulky, imported by Juan Lanfranco from San Francisco, and then +a strange object, was driven into their midst. About 1861, the first +Lanfranco Building was erected. Mateo died on October 4th, 1873, while +Juan passed away on May 20th, 1875. His wife died in 1877. A daughter +married Walter Maxwell; a second daughter became the wife of Walter S. +Moore, for years Chief of the Fire Department; and still another +daughter married Arthur Brentano, one of the well-known Paris and New +York booksellers. + +Solomon Lazard and Maurice Kremer, cousins of about the same age, and +natives of Lorraine, were associated in 1853 under the title of Lazard +& Kremer, being located in a storeroom in Mellus's Row, and I may add +that since nearly all of the country development had taken place in +districts adjacent to San Gabriel, El Monte and San Bernardino, travel +through Aliso Street was important enough to make their situation one +of the best in town. Lazard had arrived in San Francisco in 1851, and +having remained there about a year, departed for San Diego, where it +was his intention to engage in the dry goods business. Finding that +there were not enough people there to maintain such an establishment +of even moderate proportions, Lazard decided upon the advice of a +seafaring man whom he met to remove his stock, which he had brought +from the Northern town, to Los Angeles. He told me that he paid +fifty-six dollars' steamer fare from San Francisco to San Diego, and +that the freight on his merchandise cost him twenty dollars a ton. +Among his native friends, Lazard was always known as Don Solomon, and +being popular, he frequently acted as floor-manager at balls and +fandangos. Lazard is still living at the good old age of eighty-seven +years. Kremer also reached here in 1852. In time, Timoteo Wolfskill, a +son of William Wolfskill, bought Kremer's interest, and the firm name +became Lazard & Wolfskill. Each of these worthy pioneers in his day +rendered signal service to the community--Lazard serving as Councilman +in 1862; and I shall have occasion, therefore, to refer to them again. +Abe Lazard, a brother of Solomon, who had spent some years in South +America, came in the late fifties. Dr. E. M. Lazard is a son of S. +Lazard. + +While speaking of San Diego, I may remark that it was quite fifteen +years before the interesting old Spanish settlement to the South, with +which I had no business relations, attracted me; and as I was no +exception, the reader may see how seldom the early settlers were +inclined to roam about merely for sight-seeing. + +In 1853, M. Norton and E. Greenbaum sold merchandise at the southwest +corner of Los Angeles and Commercial streets (when Jacob, J. L., an +early Supervisor and City Treasurer, 1863-64 and Moritz Morris, +Councilman in 1869-70, were competitors). In time, Jacob returned to +Germany, where he died. Herman Morris, a brother, was a local +newspaper reporter. Jacob Letter was another rival, who removed to +Oakland. Still another dealer in general merchandise was M. Michaels, +almost a dwarf in size, who emigrated to South America. Casper +Behrendt--father-in-law of John Kahn, a man prominent in many +movements--who arrived in 1851, was another Commercial Street +merchant. Still other early merchants whom I somewhat distinctly +recall were Israel Fleishman and Julius Sichel, who had a glassware, +crockery and hardware business; and L. Lasky, on Commercial Street. + +Thomas D. Mott, father of John Mott, the attorney, who was lured to +California by the gold-fever of 1849, and to Los Angeles, three years +later, by the climate, I met on the day of my arrival. His room +adjoined my brother's store, so that we soon formed an acquaintanceship +which ripened, in the course of time, into a friendship that endured +until the day of his death. In the early sixties, he was the +proprietor of a livery stable on Main Street, opposite the Stearns +home. He was very fond of hunting, being an expert at dropping a bird +on the wing; and frequently went dove-shooting with his friends. + +All of which, insignificant as it may at first appear, I mention for +the purpose of indicating the neighborhood of these operations. The +hunting-ground covered none other than that now lying between Main and +Olive streets from about Sixth Street to Pico, and teeming to-day, as +the reader knows, with activity and life. There sportsmen hunted, +while more matter-of-fact burghers frequently went with scythes to cut +grass for their horses. + +Prudent Beaudry, a native of Quebec destined to make and lose several +fortunes, was here when I came, having previously been a merchant in +San Francisco when staple articles--such as common tacks, selling at +sixteen dollars a package!--commanded enormous prices. Two or three +times, however, fire obliterated all his savings, and when he reached +Los Angeles, Beaudry had only about a thousand dollars' worth of goods +and two or three hundred dollars in cash. With these assets he opened +a small store on Main Street, opposite the Abel Stearns home; and +again favored by the economic conditions of the times, he added to his +capital very rapidly. From Main Street Beaudry moved to Commercial, +forming partnerships successively with a man named Brown and with one +Le Maître. As early as 1854, Beaudry had purchased the property at the +northeast corner of Aliso Street and Nigger Alley for eleven thousand +dollars, and this he so improved with the additional investment of +twenty-five thousand dollars that he made his now elongated adobe +bring him in an income of a thousand a month. As stated elsewhere, +Beaudry went to Europe in 1855, returning later to Montreal; and it +was not until 1861 or later that he came back to Los Angeles and +reëngaged in business, this time in his own building where until 1865 +he thrived, withdrawing, as I shall soon show, in the beginning of +1866. Beaudry Avenue recalls this early and important man of affairs. + +David W. Alexander, Phineas Banning's enterprising partner in +establishing wagon-trains, was here when I came and was rather an +influential person. An Irishman by birth, he had come to California +from Mexico by way of Salt Lake, in the early forties, and lived for +awhile in the San Bernardino country. From 1844 to 1849, John Temple +and he had a store at San Pedro, and still later he was associated in +business with Banning, selling out his interest in 1855. In 1850, +Alexander was President of the first Common Council of Los Angeles, +being one of the two members who completed their term; in 1852, he +visited Europe; and in September, 1855, he was elected Sheriff of the +County, bringing to his aid the practical experience of a Ranger. +Before keeping store, Alexander had farmed for awhile on the Rincon +_rancho_; he continued to hold a large extent of acreage and in 1872 +was granted a patent to over four thousand acres in the Providencia, +and in 1874 to nearly seventeen thousand acres in the Tejunga +_rancho_. George C. Alexander, David's brother, was Postmaster at San +Pedro in 1857. + +The Hazards arrived in 1853 with a large family of children, Captain +A. M. Hazard having made his way with ox-teams from the East, via Salt +Lake, on a journey which consumed nearly two years. At first they took +up a claim about four miles from Los Angeles, which was later declared +Government land. The eldest son, Daniel, was employed by Banning as a +teamster, traveling between Los Angeles and Yuma; but later he set up +in the teaming business for himself. George W. Hazard became a dealer +in saddlery in Requena Street; and taking an active interest in the +early history of Los Angeles, he collected, at personal sacrifice, +souvenirs of the past, and this collection has become one of the few +original sources available for research.[4] In 1889, Henry T. Hazard, +after having served the City as its Attorney, was elected Mayor, his +administration being marked by no little progress in the town's growth +and expansion. Henry, who married a daughter of Dr. William Geller, +and after whom Hazard Street is named, is the only one of the +brothers who survives. + +Sam Meyer, who met me, as related, when I alighted from the stage, was +another resident of Los Angeles prior to my coming. He had journeyed +from Germany to America in 1849, had spent four years in New Orleans, +Macon, and other Southern cities, and early in 1853 had come to +California. On Main Street, south of Requena, I found him, with +Hilliard Loewenstein, in the dry goods business, an undertaking they +continued until 1856, when Loewenstein returned to Germany, to marry a +sister of Meyer. Emanuel Loewenstein, one of the issue of this +marriage, and a jolly, charitable fellow, is well known about town. On +December 15th, 1861, Meyer married Miss Johanna,[5] daughter of S. C. +and Rosalia Davis, and the same year formed a partnership with Davis +in the crockery business. After two and a half years of residence in +Germany, Loewenstein returned to Los Angeles. Meyer, so long +identified with local freemasonry, died in 1903. A daughter married +Max Loewenthal, the attorney. + +Baruch Marks, one of the very few people yet living who were here when +I arrived, is now about ninety-one years of age, and still[6] a +resident of Los Angeles. He was with Louis Schlesinger (who lost his +life when the _Ada Hancock_ was destroyed) and Hyman Tischler in the +general merchandise business in 1853 at Mellus's Row, the firm being +known as B. Marks & Company; and having prospered, he went to Berlin. +There, after the Franco-Prussian War, when much disaster befell +speculators, he lost most of his means; and greatly reduced in +resources, he returned to Los Angeles. Since then, however, he has +never been able to retrieve his fortune. Luckily he enjoys good +health, even being able at his advanced age, as he told me recently, +to shave himself. + +In 1851, Herman Schlesinger reached Los Angeles and engaged in the dry +goods business with Tobias Sherwinsky. In 1855, Moritz Schlesinger, +Herman's brother, came here and clerked for the firm. In 1857, +Schlesinger & Sherwinsky, having made, approximately, fourteen +thousand dollars, which they divided, sold out to Moritz Schlesinger +and returned to Germany. A few years later Sherwinsky lost his money +and, coming back to California, located in San Diego where he died. +Schlesinger remained in Germany and died there, about 1900. + +Collins Wadhams had a general store on the northeast corner of Main +and Commercial streets--a piece of property afterward bought by +Charlie Ducommun. At another time, Wadhams & Foster were general +merchants who, succeeding to the business of Foster & McDougal, were +soon followed by Douglass, Foster & Wadhams. Clerking for this firm +when I came was William W. Jenkins, who left for Arizona, years +afterward, where he led an adventurous life. + +Henry G. Yarrow, often called _Cuatro Ojos_ or four eyes, from the +fact that he wore a pair of big spectacles on a large hooked nose, was +an eccentric character of the fifties and later. He once conducted a +store at the southwest corner of Los Angeles and Requena streets, and +was the Jevne of his day in so far as he dealt in superior and +exceptional commodities generally not found in any other store. In +other respects, however, the comparison fails; for he kept the +untidiest place in town, and his stock was fearfully jumbled together, +necessitating an indefinite search for every article demanded. The +store was a little low room in an adobe building about twenty feet +long and ten feet wide, with another room in the rear where Yarrow +cooked and slept. He was also a mysterious person, and nobody ever saw +the inside of this room. His clothes were of the commonest material; +he was polite and apparently well-bred; yet he never went anywhere for +social intercourse, nor did he wish anyone to call upon him except for +trade. Aside from the barest necessities, he was never known to spend +any money, and so he came to be regarded as a miser. One morning he +was found dead in his store, and for some time thereafter people dug +in his backyard searching for the earnings believed to have been +secreted there; but not a cent of his horde was ever found. There +were all kinds of rumors, however, respecting Yarrow. One was to the +effect that he was the scion of a noted English family, and that +disappointment in love had soured and driven him from the world; while +another report was that his past had been somewhat shady. Nobody, +apparently, knew the truth; but I personally believe that Yarrow was +honest, and know that when at one time, despite his efforts, he failed +in business, he endeavored to settle his debts upon the most honorable +basis. + +Charles Hale, later associated with M. W. Childs, had a tin-shop just +where Stearns's Arcadia Block now stands. This shop stood on elevated +ground, making his place of business rather difficult of access; from +which the reader will gain some idea of the irregular appearance of +the landscape in early days. Hale in time went to Mexico, where he was +reported to have made a fortune. + +August Ulyard arrived with his wife on the last day of December, 1852, +and rented a house near the Plaza. In competition with Joseph Lelong, +who had established his Jenny Lind bakery a couple of years previous, +Ulyard opened a bake-shop, making his first bread from yeast which +Mrs. Ulyard had brought with her across the Plains. There had been +nothing but French bread in Los Angeles up to that time, but Ulyard +began to introduce both German and American bread and cake, which soon +found favor with many; later he added freshly-baked crackers. After a +while, he moved to the site of the Natick House, at the southwest +corner of Main and First streets; and once he owned the southwest +corner of Fifth and Spring streets, on which the Alexandria Hotel now +stands. Having no children of their own, Ulyard and his wife adopted +first one and then another, until eventually they had a family of +seven! + +Picturing these unpretentious stores, I recall a custom long prevalent +here among the native population. Just as in Mexico a little lump of +sugar called a _pilon_, or something equally insignificant, was given +with even the smallest purchase, so here some trifle, called a +_pilon_, was thrown in to please the buyer. And if a merchant +neglected to offer such a gratuity, the customer was almost certain to +ask for it. + +Among the meat-handlers, there were several Sentous brothers, but +those with whom I was more intimately acquainted were Jean and Louis, +father of Louis Sentous the present French Consul, both of whom, if I +mistake not, came about the middle of the fifties. They engaged in the +sheep business; and later Louis had a packing-house of considerable +importance located between Los Angeles and Santa Monica, where he also +owned over a thousand acres of valuable land which he sold some time +before his death. They were very successful; and Sentous Street bears +their name. Jean died in 1903, and Louis a few years later. + +Refúgio Botello was another wholesale cattle- and meat-dealer. + +Arthur McKenzie Dodson, who came here in 1850 and later married Miss +Reyes, daughter of Nasário Dominguez, conducted a butcher shop and one +of the first grocery stores. He was also the first to make soap here. +For a while Dodson was in partnership with John Benner who, during a +quarter of a century when in business for himself, in the old Temple +adobe on Main Street, built up an important trade in the handling of +meat. James H. Dodson is Arthur's son. + +Santiago Bollo also kept a small grocery. + +"Hog" Bennett was here in the middle fifties. He raised and killed +hogs, and cured the ham and bacon which he sold to neighboring +dealers. + +Possessed as he was of an unusual sense of rectitude, I esteemed +Francisco Solano, father of Alfredo Solano, for his many good +qualities. He was in the butcher business in Sonora Town, and was +prosperous in the early fifties. + +An odd little store was that of Madame Salandie, who came to +California in 1849, on the same vessel that brought Lorenzo Leck. She +had a butcher shop; but, rather curiously, she was also a +money-lender. + +I believe that Jack Yates was here in 1853. He owned the first general +laundry, located on Los Angeles Street between First and Requena, and +conducted it with success and profit for many years, until he +succumbed to the competition of the Chinese. Yates's daughter, Miss +Mary D., married H. J. Woollacott, at one time a prominent financier. + +More than once, in recording these fragmentary recollections, I have +had occasion to refer to persons who, at one time or another, were +employed in a very different manner than in a later period of their +lives. The truth is that in the early days one's occupation did not +weigh much in the balance, provided only that he was honorable and a +good citizen; and pursuits lowly to-day were then engaged in by +excellent men. Many of the vocations of standing were unknown, in +fact, fifty or sixty years ago; and refined and educated gentlemen +often turned their attention to what are now considered humble +occupations. + +FOOTNOTES: + +[4] George Hazard died on February 8th, 1914. + +[5] Mrs. Meyer died on September 4th, 1914. + +[6] Marks died on July 9th, 1914. + + + + +CHAPTER VII + +IN AND NEAR THE OLD PUEBLO + +1853 + + +About the time when I arrived, Assessor António F. Coronel reported an +increase in the City and County assessment of over eight hundred and +five thousand dollars, but the number of stores was really limited, +and the amount of business involved was in proportion. The community +was like a village; and such was the provincial character of the town +that, instead of indicating the location of a store or office by a +number, the advertiser more frequently used such a phrase as "opposite +the Bella Union," "near the Express Office," or "_vis-à-vis_ to Mr. +Temple's." Nor was this of great importance: change of names and +addresses were frequent in business establishments in those days--an +indication, perhaps, of the restless spirit of the times. + +Possibly because of this uncertainty as to headquarters, merchants +were indifferent toward many advertising aids considered to-day rather +essential. When I began business in Los Angeles, most of the +storekeepers contented themselves with signs rudely lettered or +painted on unbleached cloth, and nailed on the outside of the adobe +walls of their shops. Later, their signs were on bleached cloth and +secured in frames without glass. In 1865, we had a painted wooden +sign; and still later, many establishments boasted of letters in gold +on the glass doors and windows. So too, when I first came here, +merchants wrote their own billheads and often did not take the trouble +to do that; but within two or three years afterward, they began to +have them printed. + +People were also not as particular about keeping their places of +business open all day. Proprietors would sometimes close their stores +and go out for an hour or two for their meals, or to meet in a +friendly game of billiards. During the monotonous days when but little +business was being transacted, it was not uncommon for merchants to +visit back and forth and to spend hours at a time in playing cards. To +provide a substitute for a table, the window sill of the thick adobe +was used, the visitor seating himself on a box or barrel on the +outside, while the host within at the window would make himself +equally comfortable. Without particularizing, it is safe to state that +the majority of early traders indulged in such methods of killing +time. During this period of miserably lighted thoroughfares, and +before the arrival of many American families, those who did not play +cards and billiards in the saloons met at night at each other's stores +where, on an improvised table, they indulged in a little game of draw. + +Artisans, too, were among the pioneers. William H. Perry, a carpenter +by trade, came to Los Angeles on February 1st, 1853, bringing with +him, and setting up here, the first stationary steam engine. In May, +1855, seeing an opportunity to expand, he persuaded Ira Gilchrist to +form a partnership with him under the name of W. H. Perry & Company. A +brief month later, however--so quickly did enterprises evolve in early +Los Angeles--Perry gave up carpentering and joined James D. Brady in +the furniture business. Their location was on Main Street between +Arcadia and the Plaza. They continued together several years, until +Wallace Woodworth--one of Tom Mott's horsemen who went out to avenge +the death of Sheriff Barton--bought out Brady's interest, when the +firm became Perry & Woodworth. They prospered and grew in importance, +their speciality being inside cabinet-work; and on September 6th, +1861, they established a lumber yard in town, with the first regular +saw- and planing-mills seen here. They then manufactured beehives, +furniture and upholstery, and contracted for building and +house-furnishing. In 1863, Stephen H., brother of Tom Mott, joined the +firm. Perry & Woodworth were both active in politics, one being a +Councilman, the other a Supervisor--the latter, a Democratic leader, +going as a delegate to the convention that nominated General Winfield +S. Hancock for the presidency. Their political affiliations indeed +gave them an influence which, in the awarding of contracts, was +sufficient to keep them supplied with large orders. Woodworth's demise +occurred in 1883. Perry died on October 30th, 1906. + +Nels Williamson, a native of Maine and a clever fellow, was another +carpenter who was here when I arrived. He had come across the Plains +from New Orleans in 1852 as one of a party of twenty. In the +neighborhood of El Paso de Águila they were all ambushed by Indians, +and eighteen members of the party were killed; Williamson, and Dick +Johnson, afterward a resident of Los Angeles, being the two that +escaped. On a visit to Kern County, Nels was shot by a hunter who +mistook him for a bear; the result of which was that he was badly +crippled for life. So long as he lived--and he approached ninety +years--Nels, like many old-timers, was horribly profane. + +Henri Penelon, a fresco-painter, was here in 1853, and was recognized +as a decorator of some merit. When the old Plaza Church was renovated, +he added some ornamental touches to it. At a later period, he was a +photographer as well as a painter. + +Among the blacksmiths then in Los Angeles was a well-known German, +John Goller, who conducted his trade in his own shop, occupying about +one hundred feet on Los Angeles Street where the Los Angeles Saddlery +Company is now located. Goller was an emigrant who came by way of the +Salt Lake route, and who, when he set up as the pioneer blacksmith and +wagon-maker, was supplied by Louis Wilhart, who had a tannery on the +west side of the river, with both tools and customers. When Goller +arrived, ironworkers were scarce, and he was able to command pretty +much his own prices. He charged sixteen dollars for shoeing a horse +and used to laugh as he told how he received nearly five hundred +dollars for his part in rigging up the awning in front of a +neighboring house. When, in 1851, the Court of Sessions ordered the +Sheriff to see that fifty lances were made for the volunteer Rangers, +Goller secured the contract. Another commission which he filled was +the making for the County of a three-inch branding-iron with the +letters, _L. A._ There being little iron in stock, Goller bought up +old wagon-tires cast away on the plains, and converted them into +various utensils, including even horseshoes. As an early wagon-maker +he had rather a discouraging experience, his first wagon remaining on +his hands a good while: the natives looked upon it with inquisitive +distrust and still clung to their heavy _carretas_. He had introduced, +however, more modern methods, and gradually he established a good +sale. Afterward he extended his field of operations, the late sixties +finding him shipping wagons all over the State. His prosperity +increased, and Mullaly, Porter & Ayers constructed for him one of the +first brick buildings in Los Angeles. A few years later, Goller met +with heavy financial reverses, losing practically all that he had. + +I have stated that no care was given to either the streets or +sidewalks, and a daily evidence of this was the confusion in the +neighborhood of John's shop, which, together with his yard, was one of +the sights of the little town because the blacksmith had strewn the +footway, and even part of the road, with all kinds of piled-up +material; to say nothing of a lot of horses invariably waiting there +to be shod. The result was that passers-by were obliged to make a +detour into the often muddy street to get around and past Goller's +premises. + +John Ward was an Angeleño who knew something of the transition from +heavy to lighter vehicles. He was born in Virginia and took part in +the Battle of New Orleans. In the thirties he went to Santa Fé, in one +of the earliest prairie schooners to that point; thence he came to Los +Angeles for a temporary stay, making the trip in the first carriage +ever brought to the Coast from a Yankee workshop. In 1849, he returned +for permanent residence; and here he died in 1859. + +D. Anderson, whose daughter married Jerry Newell, a pioneer of 1856, +was a carriage-maker, having previously been in partnership with a man +named Burke in the making of pack-saddles. After a while, when +Anderson had a shop on Main Street, he commenced making a vehicle +somewhat lighter than a road wagon and less elaborate than a carriage. +With materials generally purchased from me he covered the vehicle, +making it look like a hearse. A newspaper clipping evidences +Anderson's activity in the middle seventies--"a little shaky on his +pins, but cordial as ever." + +Carriages were very scarce in California at the time of my arrival, +although there were a few, Don Abel Stearns possessing the only +private vehicle in Los Angeles; and transportation was almost entirely +by means of saddle-horses, or the native, capacious _carretas_. These +consisted of a heavy platform, four or five by eight or ten feet in +size, mounted on two large, solid wheels, sawed out of logs, and were +exceedingly primitive in appearance, although the owners sometimes +decorated them elaborately; while the wheels moved on coarse, wooden +axles, affording the traveler more jounce than restful ride. The +_carretas_ served, indeed, for nearly all the carrying business that +was done between the _ranchos_ and Los Angeles; and when in operation, +the squeaking could be heard at a great distance, owing especially to +the fact that the air being undisturbed by factories or noisy traffic, +quiet generally prevailed. So solid were these vehicles that, in early +wars, they were used for barricades and the making of temporary +corrals, and also for transporting cannon. + +This sharp squeaking of the _carreta_, however, while penetrating and +disagreeable in the extreme, served a purpose, after all, as the +signal that a buyer was approaching town; for the vehicle was likely +to have on board one or even two good-sized families of women and +children, and the keenest expectation of our little business world was +consequently aroused, bringing merchants and clerks to the front of +their stores. A couple of oxen, by means of ropes attached to their +horns, pulled the _carretas_, while the men accompanied their families +on horseback; and as the roving oxen were inclined to leave the road, +one of the riders (wielding a long, pointed stick) was kept busy +moving from side to side, prodding the wandering animals and thus +holding them to the highway. Following these _carretas_, there were +always from twenty-five to fifty dogs, barking and howling as if mad. + +Some of the _carretas_ had awnings and other tasteful trimmings, and +those who could afford it spent a great deal of money on saddles and +bridles. Each _caballero_ was supplied with a _reata_ (sometimes +locally misspelled _riata_) or leathern rope, one end of which was +tied around the neck of the horse while the other--coiled and tied to +the saddle when not in use--was held by the horseman when he went into +a house or store; for hitching posts were unknown, with the natural +result that there were many runaways. When necessary, the _reata_ was +lowered to the level of the ground, to accommodate passers-by. Riders +were always provided with one or two pistols, to say nothing of the +knife which was frequently a part of the armament; and I have seen +even sabers suspended from the saddles. + +As I have remarked, Don Abel Stearns owned the first carriage in town; +it was a strong, but rather light and graceful vehicle, with a closed +top, which he had imported from Boston in 1853, to please Doña +Arcadia, it was said. However that may be, it was pronounced by Don +Abel's neighbors the same dismal failure, considering the work it +would be called upon to perform under California conditions, as these +wiseacres later estimated the product of John Goller's carriage shop +to be. Speaking of Goller, reminds me that John Schumacher gave him an +order to build a spring wagon with a cover, in which he might take his +family riding. It was only a one-horse affair, but probably because of +the springs and the top which afforded protection from both the sun +and the rain, it was looked upon as a curiosity. + +It is interesting to note, in passing, that John H. Jones, who was +brought from Boston as a coachman by Henry Mellus--while Mrs. Jones +came as a seamstress for Mrs. Mellus--and who for years drove for Abel +Stearns, left a very large estate when he died, including such +properties as the northeast corner of Fifth and Spring streets, the +northwest corner of Main and Fifth streets (where, for several years, +he resided,) and other sites of great value; and it is my recollection +that his wage as coachman was the sole basis of this huge +accumulation. Stearns, as I mention elsewhere, suffered for years from +financial troubles; and I have always understood that during that +crisis Jones rendered his former employer assistance. + +Mrs. Frémont, the General's wife, also owned one of the first +carriages in California. It was built to order in the East and sent +around the Horn; and was constructed so that it could be fitted up as +a bed, thus enabling the distinguished lady and her daughter to camp +wherever night might overtake them. + +Shoemakers had a hard time establishing themselves in Los Angeles in the +fifties. A German shoemaker--perhaps I should say a _Schuhmachermeister_! +--was said to have come and gone by the beginning of 1852; and less +than a year later, Andrew Lehman, a fellow-countryman of John Behn, +arrived from Baden and began to solicit trade. So much, however, did +the general stores control the sale of boots and shoes at that time, +that Lehman used to say it was three years before he began to make +more than his expenses. Two other shoemakers, Morris and Weber, came +later. Slaney Brothers, in the late sixties, opened the first shoe +store here. + +In connection with shoemakers and their lack of patronage, I am +reminded of the different foot gear worn by nearly every man and boy +in the first quarter of a century after my arrival, and the way they +were handled. Then shoes were seldom used, although clumsy brogans +were occasionally in demand. Boots were almost exclusively worn by the +male population, those designed for boys usually being tipped with +copper at the toes. A dozen pair, of different sizes, came in a case, +and often a careful search was required through several boxes to find +just the size needed. At such times, the dealer would fish out one +pair after another, tossing them carelessly onto the floor; and as +each case contained odd sizes that had proven unsalable, the none too +patient and sometimes irascible merchant had to handle and rehandle +the slow-moving stock. Some of the boots were highly ornamented at the +top, and made a fine exhibit when displayed (by means of strings +passing through the boot straps) in front of the store. Boot-jacks, +now as obsolete as the boots themselves, are also an institution of +that past. + +Well out in the country, where the Capitol Milling Company's plant now +stands, and perhaps as successor to a still earlier mill built there +by an Englishman, Joseph Chapman (who married into the Ortega +family--since become famous through Émile C. Ortega who, in 1898, +successfully began preserving California chilis),--was a small mill, +run by water, known as the Eagle Mills. This was owned at different +times by Abel Stearns, Francis Mellus and J. R. Scott, and conducted, +from 1855 to 1868, by John Turner, who came here for that purpose, and +whose son, William, with Fred Lambourn later managed the grocery store +of Lambourn & Turner on Aliso Street. The miller made poor flour +indeed; though probably it was quite equal to that produced by Henry +Dalton at the Azusa, John Rowland at the Puente, Michael White at San +Gabriel, and the Theodore brothers at their Old Mill in Los Angeles. +The quantity of wheat raised in Southern California was exceedingly +small, and whenever the raw material became exhausted, Turner's supply +of flour gave out, and this indispensable commodity was then procured +from San Francisco. Turner, who was a large-hearted man and helpful to +his fellows, died in 1878. In the seventies, the mill was sold to J. +D. Deming, and by him to J. Loew, who still controls the corporation, +the activity of which has grown with the city. + +Half a year before my coming to Los Angeles, or in April, 1853, nearly +twenty-five thousand square miles had been lopped off from Los Angeles +County, to create the County of San Bernardino; and yet in that short +time the Mormons, who had established themselves there in 1851 as a +colony on a tract of land purchased from Diego Sepúlveda and the three +Lugos--José del Carmen, José María and Vicente--and consisting of +about thirty-five thousand acres, had quite succeeded in their +agricultural and other ventures. Copying somewhat the plan of Salt +Lake City, they laid out a town a mile square, with right-angled +blocks of eight acres and irrigating _zanjas_ parallel with the +streets. In a short time, they were raising corn, wheat (some of it +commanding five dollars a bushel), barley and vegetables; and along +their route of travel, by way of the Mormon metropolis, were coming to +the Southland many substantial pioneers. From San Bernardino, Los +Angeles drew her supply of butter, eggs and poultry; and as three days +were ordinarily required for their transportation across what was then +known as the desert, these products arrived in poor condition, +particularly during the summer heat. The butter would melt, and the +eggs would become stale. This disadvantage, however, was in part +compensated for by the economical advantage of the industry and thrift +of the Mormons, and their favorable situation in an open, fertile +country; for they could afford to sell us their produce very +reasonably--fifteen cents a dozen for eggs, and three dollars a dozen +for chickens well satisfying them! San Bernardino also supplied all of +our wants in the lumber line. A lumber yard was then a prospect--seven +or eight years elapsing before the first yard and planing-mill were +established; and this necessary building material was peddled around +town by the Mormon teamsters who, after disposing of all they could in +this manner, bartered the balance to storekeepers to be later put on +sale somewhere near their stores. + +But two towns broke the monotony of a trip between Los Angeles and San +Bernardino, and they were San Gabriel Mission and El Monte. I need not +remind my readers that the former place, the oldest and quaintest +settlement in the county, was founded by Father Junípero Serra and his +associates in 1771, and that thence radiated all of their operations +in this neighborhood; nor that, in spite of all the sacrifice and +human effort, matters with this beautifully-situated Mission were in a +precarious condition for several decades. It may be less known, +however, that the Mission Fathers excelled in the cultivation of +citrus fruits, and that their chief competitors, in 1853, were +William Wolfskill and Louis Vignes, who were also raising seedling +oranges of a very good quality. The population of San Gabriel was then +principally Indian and Mexican, although there were a few whites +dwelling some distance away. Among these, J. S. Mallard, afterward +Justice of the Peace and father of the present City Assessor, Walter +Mallard, carried on a small business; and Mrs. Laura Cecelia +Evertsen--mother-in-law of an old pioneer, Andrew J. King, whose wife +is the talented daughter, Mrs. Laura Evertsen King--also had a store +there. Still another early storekeeper at the quaint settlement was +Max Lazard, nephew of Solomon Lazard, who later went back to France. +Another pioneer to settle near the San Gabriel River was Louis +Phillips, a native of Germany who reached California in 1850, by way +of Louisiana, and for a while did business in a little store on the +Long Wharf at San Francisco. Then he came to Los Angeles, where he +engaged in trade; in 1853, he bought land on which, for ten years or +until he removed to Spadra (where Mrs. Phillips still survives him), +he tilled the soil and raised stock. The previous year, Hugo Reid, of +whom I often heard my neighbors speak in a complimentary way, had died +at San Gabriel where he had lived and worked. Reid was a cultured +Scotchman who, though born in the British Isles, had a part, as a +member of the convention, in making the first Constitution for +California. He married an Indian woman and, in his leisure hours, +studied the Indians on the mainland and Catalina, contributing to the +Los Angeles _Star_ a series of articles on the aborigines still +regarded as the valuable testimony of an eyewitness. + +This Indian wife of the scholarly Reid reminds me of Nathan Tuch, who +came here in 1853, having formerly lived in Cleveland where he lost +his first wife. He was thoroughly honest, very quiet and genteel, and +of an affectionate disposition. Coming to California and San Gabriel, +he opened a little store; and there he soon married a full-blooded +squaw. Notwithstanding, however, the difference in their stations and +the fact that she was uneducated, Tuch always remained faithful to +her, and treated her with every mark of respect. When I last visited +Tuch and his shop, I saw there a home-made sign, reading about as +follows: + + THIS STORE BELONGS TO NATHAN TUCH, + NOW 73 YEARS OLD. + +When he died, his wife permitted his burial in the Jewish Cemetery. + +Michael White was another pioneer, who divided his time between San +Gabriel and the neighborhood that came to be known as San Bernardino, +near which he had the rancho Muscupiabe. Although drifting hither as +long ago as 1828, he died, in the late eighties, without farm, home or +friends. + +Cyrus Burdick was still another settler who, after leaving Iowa with +his father and other relatives in December, 1853, stopped for a while +at San Gabriel. Soon young Burdick went to Oregon; but, being +dissatisfied, he returned to the Mission and engaged in farming. In +1855, he was elected Constable; a year later, he opened a store at San +Gabriel, which he conducted for eight or nine years. Subsequently, the +Burdicks lived in Los Angeles, at the corner of First and Fort streets +on the site of the present Tajo Building. They also owned the +northeast corner of Second and Spring streets. This property became +the possession of Fred Eaton, through his marriage to Miss Helen L. +Burdick. + +Fielding W. Gibson came early in the fifties. He had bought at Sonora, +Mexico, some five hundred and fifty head of cattle, but his _vaqueros_ +kept up such a regular system of side-tracking and thieving that, by +the time he reached the San Gabriel Valley, he had only about +one-seventh of his animals left. Fancying that neighborhood, he +purchased two hundred and fifty acres of land from Henry Dalton and +located west of El Monte, where he raised stock and broom corn. + +El Monte--a name by some thought to refer to the adjacent mountains, +but actually alluding to the dense willow forests then surrounding the +hamlet--the oldest American settlement in the county, was inhabited by +a party of mixed emigrants, largely Texans and including Ira W. +Thompson who opened the first tavern there and was the Postmaster when +its Post Office was officially designated Monte. Others were Dr. Obed +Macy and his son Oscar, of whom I speak elsewhere, Samuel M. Heath and +Charlotte Gray, who became John Rowland's second wife; the party +having taken possession, in the summer of 1851, of the rich farming +tract along the San Gabriel River some eleven or twelve miles east of +Los Angeles. The summer before I came, forty or fifty more families +arrived there, and among them were A. J. King, afterward a citizen of +Los Angeles; Dr. T. A. Hayes, William and Ezekiel Rubottom, Samuel +King--A. J. King's father--J. A. Johnson, Jacob Weil, A. Madox, A. J. +Horn, Thomas A. Garey, who acquired quite a reputation as a +horticulturist, and Jonathan Tibbets, spoken of in another chapter. +While tilling the soil, these farmer folks made it their particular +business to keep Whigs and, later, Republicans out of office; and slim +were the chances of those parties in El Monte and vicinity, but +correspondingly enthusiastic were the receptions given Democratic +candidates and their followers visiting there. Another important +function that engaged these worthy people was their part in the +lynchings which were necessary in Los Angeles. As soon as they +received the cue, the Monte boys galloped into town; and being by +temperament and training, through frontier life, used to dealing with +the rougher side of human nature, they were recognized disciplinarians. +The fact is that such was the peculiar public spirit animating these +early settlers that no one could live and prosper at the Monte who was +not extremely virile and ready for any dare-devil emergency. + +David Lewis, a Supervisor of 1855, crossed the continent to the San +Gabriel Valley in 1851, marrying there, in the following year, a +daughter of the innkeeper Ira Thompson, just referred to. Thompson was +a typical Vermonter and a good, popular fellow, who long kept the +Overland Stage station. Sometime in the late fifties, Lewis was a +pioneer in the growing of hops. Jonathan Tibbets, who settled at El +Monte the year that I came to Los Angeles, had so prospered by 1871 +that he left for the mines in Mohave County, Arizona, to inaugurate a +new enterprise, and took with him some twenty thousand pounds of cured +pork and a large quantity of lard, which had been prepared at El +Monte. Samuel M. Heath was another El Monte pioneer of 1851; he died +in 1876, kindly remembered by many poor immigrants. H. L., J. S. and +S. D. Thurman were farmers at El Monte, who came here in 1852. E. C. +Parish, who arrived in 1854 and became a Supervisor, was also a +ranchman there. Other El Monte folks, afterward favorably spoken of, +were the Hoyts, who were identified with early local education. + +Dr. Obed Macy, father of Mrs. Sam Foy, came to Los Angeles from the +Island of Nantucket, where he was born, by way of Indiana, in which +State he had practiced medicine, arriving in Southern California about +1850 and settling in El Monte. He moved to Los Angeles, a year later, +and bought the Bella Union from Winston & Hodges; where were opened +the Alameda Baths, on the site of the building later erected by his +son Oscar. There Dr. Macy died on July 9th, 1857. Oscar, a printer on +the _Southern Californian_, had set type in San Francisco, swung a +miner's pick and afterward returned to El Monte where he took up a +claim which, in time, he sold to Samuel King. Macy Street recalls this +pioneer family. + +The San Fernando and San Juan Capistrano missions, and Agua Caliente, +were the only other settlements in Los Angeles County then; the +former, famous by 1854 for its olives, passing into history both +through the activity of the Mission Fathers and also the renowned +set-to between Micheltorena and Castro when, after hours of +cannonading and grotesque swinging of the would-be terrifying _reata_, +the total of the dead was--_a single mule!_ Then, or somewhat +subsequently, General Andrés Pico began to occupy what was the most +pretentious adobe in the State, formerly the abode of the _padres_--a +building three hundred feet long, eighty feet wide and with walls four +feet thick. + +In 1853, there was but one newspaper in the city--a weekly known as +_La Estrella de los Angeles_ or _The Los Angeles Star_, printed half +in Spanish, half in English. It was founded on May 17th, 1851, by John +A. Lewis and John McElroy, who had their printing office in the lower +room of a small wooden house on Los Angeles Street, near the corral of +the Bella Union hotel. This firm later became Lewis, McElroy & Rand. +There was then no telegraphic communication with the outside world, +and the news ordinarily conveyed by the sheet was anything but +important. Indeed, all such information was known, each week, by the +handful of citizens in the little town long before the paper was +published, and delays in getting mail from a distance--in one case the +post from San Francisco to Los Angeles being under way no less than +fifty-two days!--led to Lewis giving up the editorship in disgust. +When a steamer arrived, some little news found its way into the paper; +but even then matters of national and international moment became +known in Los Angeles only after the lapse of a month or so. The +admission of California to the Union in 1850, for example, was first +reported on the Coast six weeks after Congress had voted in +California's favor; while in 1852, the deaths of Clay and Webster were +not known in the West until more than a month after they had occurred. +This was a slight improvement, however, over the conditions in 1841 +when (it used to be said) no one west of the Rockies knew of President +Harrison's demise until over three months and a half after he was +buried! Our first Los Angeles newspaper was really more of an +advertising medium than anything else, and the printing outfit was +decidedly primitive, though the printers may not have been as badly +off as were the typos of the _Californian_. The latter, using type +picked up in a Mexican cloister, found no _W_'s among the Spanish +letters and had to set double _V_'s until more type was brought from +the Cannibal or Sandwich Islands! Which reminds me of José de la Rosa, +born in Los Angeles about 1790, and the first journeyman to set type +in California, who died over one hundred years old. But if the +_Estrella_ made a poor showing as a newspaper, I have no doubt that, +to add to the editor's misfortunes, the advertising rates were so low +that his entire income was but small. In 1854, the _Star_ and its +_imprenta_, as it was then styled, were sold to a company organized by +James S. Waite, who, a year later, was appointed Postmaster of the +city. Speaking of the _Star_, I should add that one of its first +printers was Charles Meyrs Jenkins, later City _Zanjero_, who had come +to California, a mere stripling, with his stepfather, George Dalton, +Sr. + +The Post Office, too, at this time, was far from being an important +institution. It was located in an adobe building on Los Angeles, +between Commercial and Arcadia streets, and Dr. William B. Osburn, +sometimes known as Osbourn--who came to California from New York in +1847, in Colonel Stevenson's regiment, and who had established a drug +store, such as it was, in 1850--had just been appointed Postmaster. A +man who in his time played many parts, Osburn had half a dozen other +irons in the fire besides politics (including the interests of a +floral nursery and an auction room), and as the Postmaster was +generally away from his office, citizens desiring their mail would +help themselves out of a soap box--subdivided like a pigeon house, +each compartment being marked with a letter; and in this way the +city's mail was distributed! Indifferent as Dr. Osburn was to the +postmastership (which, of course, could not have paid enough to +command anyone's exclusive services), he was rather a clever fellow +and, somewhat naturally perhaps for a student of chemistry, is said to +have made as early as August 9th, 1851, (and in connection with one +Moses Searles, a pioneer house and sign painter) the first +daguerreotype photographs produced in Los Angeles. For two years or +more, Dr. Osburn remained Postmaster, resigning his office on November +1st, 1855. While he was a notary public, he had an office in Keller's +Building on Los Angeles Street. J. H. Blond was another notary; he had +an office opposite the Bella Union on Main Street. Osburn died in Los +Angeles on July 31st, 1867. + +No sooner had I arrived in San Francisco, than I became aware of the +excitement incidental to the search for gold, and on reaching Los +Angeles, I found symptoms of the same fever. That year, as a matter of +fact, recorded the highest output of gold, something like sixty-five +million dollars' worth being mined; and it was not many months before +all was bustle in and about our little city, many people coming and +going, and comparatively few wishing to settle, at least until they +had first tried their luck with the pick and pan. Not even the +discovery of gold in the San Feliciano Cañon, near Newhall, in the +early forties--for I believe the claim is made that Southern +Californians, while searching for wild onions, had the honor of +digging out, in the despised "cow-counties," the first lump of the +coveted metal--had set the natives so agog; so that while the rush to +the mines claimed many who might otherwise have become permanent +residents, it added but little to the prosperity of the town, and it +is no wonder that, for a while, the local newspapers refused to give +events the notice which they deserved. To be sure, certain +merchants--among them dealers in tinware, hardware and groceries, and +those who catered especially to miners, carrying such articles as +gold-washers, canteens and camp-outfits--increased their trade; but +many prospective gold-seekers, on their way to distant diggings, +waited until they got nearer the scene of their adventures before +buying tools and supplies, when they often exhausted their purses in +paying the exorbitant prices which were asked. Barring the success of +Francisco Garcia who used gangs of Indians and secured in the one year +1855 over sixty thousand dollars' worth of gold--one nugget being +nearly two thousand dollars in value--the placer gold-mining carried +on in the San Gabriel and San Francisquito _cañons_ was on the whole +unimportant, and what gold-dust was produced at these points came to +Los Angeles without much profit to the toiling miners; so that it may +be safely stated that cattle- and horse-raising, of which I shall +speak in more detail, were Southern California's principal sources of +income. As for the gold dust secured, San Francisco was the +clearing-house for the Coast, and all of the dust ultimately found its +way there until sometime later Sacramento developed and became a +competitor. Coming, as I did, from a part of the world where gold dust +was never seen, at least by the layman, this sudden introduction to +sacks and bottles full of the fascinating yellow metal produced upon +me, as the reader may imagine, another one of those strange +impressions fixing so indelibly my first experiences in the new, raw +and yet altogether romantic world. + + + + +CHAPTER VIII + +ROUND ABOUT THE PLAZA + +1853-1854 + + +At the time of my arrival, the Plaza, long the nucleus of the original +settlement, was the center of life in the little community, and around +it clustered the homes of many of those who were uppermost in the +social scale, although some of the descendants of the finest Spanish +families were living in other parts of the city. This was particularly +so in the case of José Andrés Sepúlveda, who had a beautiful old adobe +on some acreage that he owned northwest of Sonora Town, near the place +where he constructed a stone reservoir to supply his house with water. +Opposite the old Plaza Church dwelt a number of families of position +and, for the most part, of wealth--in many cases the patrons of less +fortunate or dependent ones, who lived nearby. The environment was not +beautiful, a solitary pepper, somewhat north of the Plaza, being the +only shade-tree there; yet the general character of the homes was +somewhat aristocratic, the landscape not yet having been seriously +disturbed by any utilitarian project such as that of the City Fathers +who, by later granting a part of the old square for a prosaic water +tank, created a greater rumpus than had the combative soldiers some +years before. The Plaza was shaped much as it is at present, having +been reduced considerably, but five or six years earlier, by the +Mexican authorities: they had planned to improve its shape, but had +finished their labors by contracting the object before them. There was +no sign of a park; on the contrary, parts of the Plaza itself, which +had suffered the same fate as the Plaza in San Francisco, were used +as a dumping-ground for refuse. From time to time many church and +other festivals were held at this square--a custom no doubt traceable +to the Old World and to earlier centuries; but before any such affair +could take place--requiring the erecting of booths and banks of +vegetation in front of the neighboring houses--all rubbish had to be +removed, even at the cost of several days' work. + +Among the distinguished citizens of Los Angeles whose residences added +to the social prestige of the neighborhood was Don Ygnácio Del Valle, +father of R. F. Del Valle. Until 1861, he resided on the east side of +the square, in a house between Calle de los Negros and Olvera Street, +receiving there his intimate friends as well as those who wished to +pay him their respects when he was _Alcalde_, Councilman and member of +the State Legislature. In 1861, Del Valle moved to his ranch, Camulos. +Ygnácio Coronel was another eminent burgher residing on the east side +of the Plaza, while Cristóbal Aguilar's home faced the South. + +Not far from Del Valle's--that is, back of the later site of the Pico +House, between the future Sanchez Street and Calle de los +Negros--lived Don Pio Pico, then and long after a striking figure, not +merely on account of his fame as the last of the Mexican governors, +but as well because of his physique and personality. I may add that as +long as he lived, or at least until the tide of his fortune turned and +he was forced to sell his most treasured personal effects, he +invariably adorned himself with massive jewelry of much value; and as +a further conceit, he frequently wore on his bosom Mexican decorations +that had been bestowed upon him for past official services. Don Pio +really preferred country life at the _Ranchito_, as his place was +called; but official duties and, later, illness and the need of +medical care, kept him in town for months at a time. He had three +sisters, two of whom married in succession José António Carrillo, +another resident at the Plaza and the then owner of the site of the +future Pico House; while the third was the wife of Don Juan Forster, +in whose comfortable home Don Pio found a retreat when distressing +poverty overtook him in old age. Sanchez Street recalls still another +don of the neighborhood, Vicente Sanchez, grandfather of Tomás A. +Sanchez, who was domiciled in a two-story and rather elaborate +dwelling near Carrillo, on the south side of the Plaza. Sanchez Hall +stood there until the late seventies. + +The Beau Brummel of Los Angeles in the early fifties was Don Vicente +Lugo, whose wardrobe was made up exclusively of the fanciest patterns +of Mexican type; his home, one of the few two-story houses in the +pueblo, was close to Ygnácio Del Valle's. Lugo, a brother of Don José +María, was one of the heavy taxpayers of his time; as late as 1860, he +had herds of twenty-five hundred head of cattle, or half a thousand +more than Pio and Andrés Pico together owned. María Ballestero, Lugo's +mother-in-law, lived near him. + +Don Agustin Olvera dwelt almost opposite Don Vicente Lugo's, on the +north side of the Plaza, at the corner of the street perpetuating his +name. Don Agustin arrived from Mexico, where he had been _Juez de +Paz_, in 1834, or about the same time that Don Ygnácio Coronel came, +and served as Captain in the campaign of Flores against Frémont, even +negotiating peace with the Americans; then he joined Dr. Hope's +volunteer police, and was finally chosen, at the first election in Los +Angeles, Judge of the First Instance, becoming the presiding officer +of the Court of Sessions. Five or six years later, he was School +Commissioner. He had married Doña Concepción, one of not less than +twenty-two children of Don Santiago Arguello, son of a governor of +both Californias, and his residence was at the northeast end of the +Plaza, in an adobe which is still standing. There, while fraternizing +with the newly-arrived Americans, he used to tell how, in 1850, when +the movement for the admission of California as a State was under way, +he acted as secretary to a meeting called in this city to protest +against the proposal, fearing lest the closer association with +Northern California would lead to an undue burden of taxes upon the +South. Olvera Street is often written by mistake, Olivera. + +Francisco O'Campo was another man of means whose home was on the east +side of the Plaza. Although he was also a member of the new +_Ayuntamiento_, inaugurated in 1849, and although he had occupied +other offices, he was very improvident, like so many natives of the +time, and died, in consequence, a poor man. In his later years, he +used to sit on the curbstone near the Plaza, a character quite +forlorn, utterly dejected in appearance, and despondently recalling +the by-gone days of his prosperity. + +Don Cristóbal Aguilar, several times in his career an _Alcalde_, +several times a City Councilman beginning with the first organization +of Los Angeles, and even twice or thrice Mayor, was another resident +near the Plaza. His adobe on upper Main Street was fairly spacious; +and partly, perhaps, for that reason, was used by the Sisters of +Charity when they instituted the first hospital in Los Angeles. + +A short distance from the Plaza, on Olvera Street, had long stood the +home of Don José María Ábila, who was killed in battle in the early +thirties. It was there that Commodore Stockton made his headquarters, +and the story of how this was brought about is one of the entertaining +incidents of this warlike period. The widow Ábila, who had scant love +for the Americans, had fled with her daughters to the home of Don +Luis[7] Vignes, but not before she placed a native boy on guard, +cautioning him against opening either doors or windows. When the young +custodian, however, heard the flourishes of Stockton's brass band, he +could not resist the temptation to learn what the excitement meant; so +he first poked his head out of a window, and finally made off to the +Plaza. Some of Stockton's staff, passing by, and seeing the tasteful +furniture within, were encouraged to investigate, with the result that +they selected the widow Ábila's house for Stockton's abode. Another +Ábila--Francisco--had an adobe at the present southeast corner of San +Fernando and Alpine streets. + +Francisca Gallardo, daughter of one of the Sepúlvedas, lived in the +vicinity of the Plaza. + +The only church in Los Angeles at this time was that of _Nuestra +Señora la Reyna de los Angeles_, known as Our Lady, the Queen of the +Angels, at the Plaza; and since but few changes were made for years in +its exterior, I looked upon the edifice as the original adobe built +here in the eighties of the preceding century. When I came to inquire +into the matter, however, I was astonished to learn that the Church +dated back no farther than the year 1822, although the first attempt +at laying a corner-stone was made in 1815, probably somewhat to the +east of the old Plaza and a year or two after rising waters frustrated +the attempt to build a chapel near the river and the present Aliso +Street. Those temporary foundations seem to have marked the spot where +later the so-called Woman's Gun--once buried by Mexicans, and +afterward dug up by women and used at the Battle of Dominguez +Ranch--was long exposed to view, propped up on wooden blocks. The +venerable building I then saw, in which all communicants for want of +pews knelt on the floor or stood while worshiping, is still admired by +those to whom age and sacred tradition, and the sacrifices of the +early Spanish Fathers, make appeal. In the first years of my residence +here, the bells of this honored old pile, ringing at six in the +morning and at eight in the evening, served as a curfew to regulate +the daily activities of the town. + +Had Edgar Allan Poe lived in early Los Angeles, he might well have +added to his poem one more stanza about these old church bells, whose +sweet chimes, penetrating the peace and quiet of the sleepy village, +not alone summoned the devout to early mass or announced the time of +vespers, but as well called many a merchant to his day's labor and +dismissed him to his home or the evening's rendezvous. That was a time +of sentiment and romance, and the memory of it lingers pleasantly in +contrast with the rush and bustle of to-day, when cold and +chronometrical exactitude, instead of a careless but, in its time, +sufficient measure of the hours, arranged the order of our comings and +our goings. + +Incidental to the ceremonial activity of the old Church on the Plaza, +the _Corpus Christi_ festival was one of the events of the year when +not the least imposing feature was the opening procession around the +Plaza. For all these occasions, the square was thoroughly cleaned, +and notable families, such as the Del Valles, the Olveras, the Lugos +and the Picos erected before their residences temporary altars, +decorated with silks, satins, laces and even costly jewelry. The +procession would start from the Church after the four o'clock service +and proceed around the Plaza from altar to altar. There the boys and +girls, carrying banners and flowers, and robed or dressed in white, +paused for formal worship, the progress through the square, small as +the Plaza was, thus taking a couple of hours. Each succeeding year the +procession became more resplendent and inclusive, and I have a +distinct recollection of a feature incidental to one of them when +twelve men, with twelve great burning candles, represented the +Apostles. + +These midwinter festivities remind me that, on Christmas Eve, the +young people here performed pastoral plays. It was the custom, much as +it still is in Upper Bavaria, to call at the homes of various friends +and acquaintances and, after giving little performances such as _Los +Pastores_, to pass on to the next house. A number of the Apostles and +other characters associated with the life of Jesus were portrayed, and +the Devil, who scared half to death the little children of the hamlet, +was never overlooked. The _buñuelo_, or native doughnut, also added +its delight to these celebrations. + + [Illustration: John Jones] + + [Illustration: Captain F. Morton] + + [Illustration: Captain and Mrs. J. S. Garcia] + + [Illustration: Captain Salisbury Haley] + + [Illustration: El Palacio, Home of Abel and Arcadia Stearns + From a photograph of the seventies] + + [Illustration: The Lugo Ranch-house, in the Nineties] + +And now a word about the old Spanish Missions in this vicinity. It was +no new experience for me to see religious edifices that had attained +great age, and this feature, therefore, made no special impression. I +dare say that I visited the Mission of San Gabriel very soon after I +arrived in Los Angeles; but it was then less than a century old, and +so was important only because it was the place of worship of many +natives. The Protestant denominations were not as numerous then as +now, and nearly all of the population was Catholic. With the passing +of the years, sentimental reverence for the Spanish Fathers has grown +greater and their old Mission homes have acquired more and more the +dignity of age. Helen Hunt Jackson's _Ramona_, John S. McGroarty's +_Mission Play_ (in which, by the by, Señorita Lucretia, daughter of +R. F. and granddaughter of Don Ygnácio Del Valle, so ably portrays the +character of _Doña Josefa Yorba_) and various other literary efforts +have increased the interest in these institutions of the past. + +The missions and their chapels recall an old Mexican woman who had her +home, when I came to Los Angeles, at what is now the southeast corner +of San Pedro and First streets. She dwelt in a typical adobe, and in +the rear of her house was a vineyard of attractive aspect. Adjoining +one of the rooms of her dwelling was a chapel, large enough, perhaps, +to hold ten or twelve people and somewhat like those on the Dominguez +and Coronel estates; and this chapel, like all the other rooms, had an +earthen floor. In it was a gaudily-decorated altar and crucifix. The +old lady was very religious and frequently repaired to her sanctuary. +From the sale of grapes, she derived, in part, her income; and many a +time have I bought from her the privilege of wandering through her +vineyard and eating all I could of this refreshing berry. If the +grape-season was not on, neighbors were none the less always welcome +there; and it was in this quiet and delightful retreat that, in 1856, +I proposed marriage to Miss Sarah Newmark, my future wife, such a mere +girl that a few evenings later I found her at home playing +jackstones--then a popular game--with Mrs. J. G. Downey, herself a +child. + +But while Catholics predominated, the Protestant churches had made a +beginning. Rev. Adam Bland, Presiding Elder of the Methodists in Los +Angeles in 1854, had come here a couple of years before, to begin his +work in the good, old-fashioned way; and, having bought the barroom, +El Dorado, and torn down Hughes's sign, he had transformed the place +into a chapel. But, alas for human foresight, or the lack of it: on at +least a part of the new church lot, the Merced Theater later stood! + +Two cemeteries were in existence at the time whereof I write: the +Roman Catholic--abandoned a few years ago--which occupied a site on +Buena Vista Street, and one, now long deserted, for other +denominations. This cemetery, which we shall see was sadly neglected, +thereby occasioning bitter criticism in the press, was on Fort Hill. +Later, another burial-ground was established in the neighborhood of +what is now Flower and Figueroa streets, near Ninth, many years before +there was any thought of Rosedale or Evergreen. + +As for my co-religionists and their provision of a cemetery, when I +first came to Los Angeles they were without a definite place for the +interment of their dead; but in 1854 the first steps were taken to +establish a Jewish cemetery here, and it was not very long before the +first Jewish child to die in Los Angeles, named Mahler, was buried +there. This cemetery, on land once owned and occupied by José Andrés +Sepúlveda's reservoir, was beautifully located in a recess or little +pocket, as it were, among the hills in the northwest section of the +city, where the environment of nature was in perfect harmony with the +Jewish ideal--"Home of Peace." + +Mrs. Jacob Rich, by the way, had the distinction of being the first +Jewess to settle in Los Angeles; and I am under the impression that +Mrs. E. Greenbaum became the mother of the first Jewish child born +here. + +Sam Prager arrived in 1854, and after clerking a while, associated +himself with the Morrises, who were just getting nicely established. +For a time, they met with much success and were among the most +important merchants of their day. Finally they dissolved, and the +Morris Brothers bought the large tract of land which I have elsewhere +described as having been refused by Newmark, Kremer & Company in +liquidation of Major Henry Hancock's account. Here, for several years, +in a fine old adobe lived the Morris family, dispensing a bountiful +hospitality quite in keeping with the open-handed manner of the times. +In the seventies, the Morris Brothers sold this property--later known +as Morris Vineyard--after they had planted it to vines, for the +insignificant sum of about twenty thousand dollars. + +Following Sam Prager, came his brother Charles. For a short time they +were associated, but afterward they operated independently, Charles +Prager starting on Commercial Street, on May 19th, 1869. Sam Prager, +long known as "Uncle Sam," was a good-natured and benevolent man, +taking a deep interest in Masonic matters, becoming Master of 42, and +a regular attendant at the annual meetings of the Grand Lodge of +California. He was also Chairman of the Masonic Board of Relief until +the time of his death. Charles Prager and the Morrises have all gone +to that + + undiscovered country, from whose bourn + No traveler returns. + +In the summer of 1853, a movement was inaugurated, through the +combined efforts of Mayors Nichols and Coronel, aided by John T. +Jones, to provide public schools; and three citizens, J. Lancaster +Brent, Lewis Granger and Stephen C. Foster, were appointed School +Commissioners. As early as 1838, Ygnácio Coronel, assisted by his wife +and daughter, had accepted some fifteen dollars a month from the +authorities--to permit the exercise of official supervision--and +opened a school which, as late as 1854, he conducted in his own home; +thereby doubtless inspiring his son António to take marked interest in +the education of the Indians. From time to time, private schools, +partly subsidized from public funds, were commenced. In May, 1854, +Mayor Foster pointed out that, while there were fully five hundred +children of school age and the pueblo had three thousand dollars +surplus, there was still no school building which the City could call +its own. New trustees--Manuel Requena, Francis Mellus and W. T. B. +Sanford--were elected; and then happened what, perhaps, has not +occurred here since, or ever in any other California town: Foster, +still Mayor, was also chosen School Superintendent. The new energy put +into the movement now led the Board to build, late in 1854 or early in +1855, a two-story brick schoolhouse, known as School No. 1, on the +northwest corner of Spring and Second streets, on the lot later +occupied, first by the old City Hall and secondly by the Bryson Block. +This structure cost six thousand dollars. Strange as it now seems, the +location was then rather "out in the country;" and I dare say the +selection was made, in part, to get the youngsters away from the +residential district around the Plaza. There school was opened on +March 19th, 1855; William A. Wallace, a botanist who had been sent +here to study the flora, having charge of the boys' department and +Miss Louisa Hayes directing the division for girls. Among her pupils +were Sarah Newmark and her sisters; Mary Wheeler, who married William +Pridham; and Lucinda Macy, afterward Mrs. Foy, who recalls +participating in the first public school examination, in June, 1856. +Dr. John S. Griffin, on June 7th, 1856, was elected Superintendent. +Having thus established a public school, the City Council voted to +discontinue all subsidies to private schools. + +One of the early school-teachers was the pioneer, James F. Burns. +Coming with an emigrant train in 1853, Burns arrived in Los Angeles, +after some adventures with the Indians near what was later the scene +of the Mountain Meadow Massacre, in November of the same year. Having +been trained in Kalamazoo, Michigan, as a teacher, Burns settled, in +1854, in San Gabriel; and there with Cæsar C. Twitchell, he conducted +a cross-roads school in a tent. Later, while still living at San +Gabriel, Burns was elected County School Superintendent. Before +reaching here--that is, at Provo, Utah, on September 25th--the young +schoolmaster had married Miss Lucretia Burdick, aunt of Fred Eaton's +first wife. Burns, though of small stature, became one of the fighting +sheriffs of the County. + +Among others who conducted schools in Los Angeles or vicinity, in the +early days, were Mrs. Adam Bland, wife of the missionary; H. D. +Barrows and the Hoyts. Mrs. Bland taught ten or twelve poor girls, in +1853, for which the Common Council allowed her about thirty-five +dollars. Barrows was one of several teachers employed by William +Wolfskill at various times, and at Wolfskill's school not merely were +his own children instructed but those of the neighboring families of +Carpenter, Rowland and Pleasants as well. Mrs. Gertrude Lawrence Hoyt +was an Episcopal clergyman's wife from New York who, being made a +widow, followed her son, Albert H. Hoyt, to Los Angeles in 1853. +Young Hoyt, a graduate of Rutgers College and a teacher excited by the +gold fever, joined a hundred and twenty men who chartered the bark +_Clarissa Perkins_ to come around the Horn, in 1849; but failing as a +miner, he began farming near Sacramento. When Mrs. Hoyt came to Los +Angeles, she conducted a private school in a rented building north of +the Plaza, beginning in 1854 and continuing until 1856; while her son +moved south and took up seventy or eighty acres of land in the San +Gabriel Valley, near El Monte. In 1855, young Hoyt came into town to +assist his mother in the school; and the following year Mrs. Hoyt's +daughter, Mary, journeyed West and also became a teacher here. Later, +Miss Hoyt kept a school on Alameda Street near the site of the Los +Angeles & San Pedro Railroad depot. Mrs. Hoyt died in Los Angeles in +1863. Other early teachers were William McKee, Mrs. Thomas Foster and +Miss Anna McArthur. + +As undeveloped as the pueblo was, Los Angeles boasted, in her very +infancy, a number of physicians, although there were few, if any, +Spanish or Mexican practitioners. In 1850, Drs. William B. Osburn, W. +W. Jones, A. W. Hope, A. P. Hodges and a Dr. Overstreet were here; +while in 1851, Drs. Thomas Foster, John Brinckerhoff and James P. +McFarland followed, to be reënforced, in 1852, by Dr. James B. Winston +and, soon after, by Drs. R. T. Hayes, T. J. White and A. B. Hayward. +Dr. John Strother Griffin (General Albert Sidney Johnston's +brother-in-law and the accepted suitor of Miss Louisa Hayes) came to +Los Angeles in 1848, or rather to San Gabriel--where, according to +Hugo Reid, no physician had settled, though the population took drugs +by the barrel; being the ranking surgeon under Kearney and Stockton +when, on January 8th, they drove back the Mexican forces. He was also +one of the hosts to young W. T. Sherman. Not until 1854, however, +after Griffin had returned to Washington and had resigned his +commission, did he actually settle in Los Angeles. Thereafter, his +participation in local affairs was such that, very properly, one of +our avenues is named after him. Dr. Richard S. Den antedated all of +these gentlemen, having resided and practiced medicine in Los Angeles +in 1843, 1844 and again in the early fifties, though he did not dwell +in this city permanently until January, 1866. Den I knew fairly well, +and Griffin was my esteemed physician and friend. Foster and Griffin +were practitioners whom I best recall as being here during my first +years, one or two others, as Dr. Osburn and Dr. Winston, having +already begun to devote their time to other enterprises. + +Dr. Richard S. Den, an Irishman of culture and refinement, having been +for awhile with his brother, Nicholas Den, in Santa Bárbara, returned +to Los Angeles in 1851. I say, "returned," because Den had looked in +on the little pueblo before I had even heard its name. While in the +former place, in the winter of 1843-44, Den received a call from Los +Angeles to perform one or two surgical operations, and here he +practiced until drawn to the mines by the gold excitement. He served, +in 1846-47, as Chief Physician and Surgeon of the Mexican forces +during the Mexican War, and treated, among others, the famous American +Consul Larkin, whose surety he became when Larkin was removed to +better quarters in the home of Louis Vignes. Den had only indifferent +luck as a miner, but was soon in such demand to relieve the sufferers +from malaria that it is said he received as much as a thousand dollars +in a day for his practice. In 1854, he returned to Santa Bárbara +County, remaining there for several years and suffering great loss, on +account of the drought and its effects on his cattle. Nicholas Den, +who was also known in Los Angeles, and was esteemed for both his +integrity and his hospitality, died at Santa Bárbara in 1862. + +Old Dr. Den will be remembered, not only with esteem, but with +affection. He was seldom seen except on horseback, in which fashion he +visited his patients, and was, all in all, somewhat a man of mystery. +He rode a magnificent coal-black charger, and was himself always +dressed in black. He wore, too, a black felt hat; and beneath the hat +there clustered a mass of wavy hair as white as snow. In addition to +all this, his standing collar was so high that he was compelled to +hold his head erect; and as if to offset the immaculate linen, he tied +around the collar a large black-silk scarf. Thus attired and seated on +his richly-caparisoned horse, Dr. Den appeared always dignified, and +even imposing. One may therefore easily picture him a friendly rival +with Don Juan Bandini at the early Spanish balls, as he was on +intimate terms with Don and Doña Abel Stearns, acknowledged social +leaders. Dr. Den was fond of horse-racing and had his own favorite +racehorses sent here from Santa Bárbara, where they were bred. + +Dr. Osburn, the Postmaster of 1853, had two years before installed a +small variety of drugs on a few shelves, referred to by the +complimentary term of drug store. Dr. Winston also kept a stock of +drugs. About the same time, and before Dr. A. W. Hope opened the third +drug store in September, 1854, John Gately Downey, an Irishman by +birth, who had been apprenticed to the drug trade in Maryland and +Ohio, formed a partnership with James P. McFarland, a native of +Tennessee, buying some of Winston's stock. Their store was a long, +one-story adobe on the northwest corner of Los Angeles and Commercial +streets, and was known as McFarland & Downey's. The former had been a +gold-miner; and this experience intensified the impression of an +already rugged physique as a frontier type. Entering politics, as +Osburn and practically every other professional man then +did--doubtless as much as anything else for the assurance of some +definite income--McFarland secured a seat in the Assembly in 1852, and +in the Senate in 1853-54. About 1858, he returned to Tennessee and in +December, 1860, revisited California; after which he settled +permanently in the East. Downey, in 1859, having been elected +Lieutenant-Governor, was later made Governor, through the election of +Latham to the United States Senate; but his suddenly-revealed +sympathies with the Secessionists, together with his advocacy of a +bill for the apprenticing of Indians, contributed toward killing him +politically and he retired to private life. Dr. H. R. Myles, destined +to meet with a tragic death in a steamboat disaster which I shall +narrate, was another druggist, with a partner, Dr. J. C. Welch, a +South Carolinian dentist who came here in the early fifties and died +in August, 1869. Their drug store on Main Street, nearly opposite the +Bella Union, filled the prescriptions of the city's seven or eight +doctors. Considerably later, but still among the pioneer druggists, +was Dr. V. Gelcich, who came here as Surgeon to the Fourth California +Infantry. + +Speaking of druggists, it may be interesting to add that medicines +were administered in earlier days to a much greater extent than now. +For every little ailment there was a pill, a powder or some other +nostrum. The early _botica_, or drug store, kept only drugs and things +incidental to the drug business. There was also more of home treatment +than now. Every mother did more or less doctoring on her own account, +and had her well-stocked medicine-chest. Castor oil, ipecac, black +draught and calomel were generally among the domestic supply. + +The practice of surgery was also very primitive; and he was +unfortunate, indeed, who required such service. Operations had to be +performed at home; there were few or none of the modern scientific +appliances or devices for either rendering the patient immune or +contending with active disease. + +Preceded by a brother, Colonel James C. Foy--who visited California in +1850 and was killed in 1864, while in Sherman's army, by the bursting +of a shell--Samuel C. Foy started for San Francisco, by way of New +Orleans and the Isthmus, when he was but twenty-two years old and, +allured by the gold-fever, wasted a year or two in the mines. In +January, 1854, he made his way south to Los Angeles; and seeing the +prospect for trade in harness, on February 19th of that year opened an +American saddlery, in which business he was joined by his brother, +John M. Foy. Their store was on Main Street, between Commercial and +Requena. The location was one of the best; and the Foy Brothers +offering, besides saddlery, such necessities of the times as tents, +enjoyed one of the first chances to sell to passing emigrants and +neighboring _rancheros_, as they came into town. Some spurs, exhibited +in the County Museum, are a souvenir of Foy's enterprise in those +pioneer days. In May, 1856, Sam Foy began operating in cattle and +continued in that business until 1865, periodically taking herds +north and leaving his brother in charge of the store. + +In the course of time, the Foys moved to Los Angeles Street, becoming +my neighbors; and while there, in 1882, S. C. Foy, in a quaint +advertisement embellished with a blanketed horse, announced his +establishment as the "oldest business house in Los Angeles, still at +the old stand, 17 Los Angeles Street, next to H. Newmark & Company's." +John Foy, who later removed to San Bernardino, died many years ago, +and Sam Foy also has long since joined the silent majority; but one of +the old signs of the saddlery is still to be seen on Los Angeles +Street, where the son, James Calvert Foy, conducts the business. The +Foys first lived on Los Angeles Street, and then on Main. Some years +later, they moved to the corner of Seventh and Pearl streets, now +called Figueroa, and came to control much valuable land there, still +in possession of the family. A daughter of Samuel C. Foy is Miss Mary +Foy, formerly a teacher and later Public Librarian. Another daughter +married Thomas Lee Woolwine, the attorney. + +Wells Fargo & Company--formerly always styled Wells, Fargo & +Company--were early in the field here. On March 28th, 1854, they were +advertising, through H. R. Myles, their agent, that they were a joint +stock company with a capital of five hundred thousand dollars! + +FOOTNOTE: + +[7] Often spoken of as Don Louis. + + + + +CHAPTER IX + +FAMILIAR HOME-SCENES + +1854 + + +Many of the houses, as I have related, were clustered around and north +of the Plaza Church, while the hills surrounding the pueblo to the +West were almost bare. These same hills have since been subdivided and +graded to accommodate the Westlake, the Wilshire, the West Temple and +other sections. Main and Spring streets were laid out beyond First, +but they were very sparsely settled; while to the East of Main and +extending up to that street, there were many large vineyards without a +single break as far south as the Ninth Street of to-day, unless we +except a narrow and short lane there. To enable the reader to form an +accurate impression of the time spent in getting to a nearby point, I +will add that, to reach William Wolfskin's home, which was in the +neighborhood of the present Arcade Depot, one was obliged to travel +down to Aliso Street, thence to Alameda, and then south on Alameda to +Wolfskin's orchard. From Spring Street, west and as far as the coast, +there was one huge field, practically unimproved and undeveloped, the +swamp lands of which were covered with tules. All of this land, from +the heart of the present retail district to the city limits, belonged +to the municipality. I incline to the opinion that both Ord and +Hancock had already surveyed in this southwestern district; but +through there, nevertheless, no single street had as yet been cut. + + [Illustration: J. P. Newmark + From a vignette of the sixties] + + [Illustration: O. W. Childs] + + [Illustration: Jacob Rich] + + [Illustration: John O. Wheeler] + + [Illustration: Benjamin D. Wilson] + + [Illustration: Dr. Obed Macy] + + [Illustration: George Hansen] + + [Illustration: Samuel C. Foy] + +Not merely at the Plaza, but throughout Los Angeles, most of the +houses were built of adobe, or mud mixed with straw and dried for +months in the sun; and several fine dwellings of this kind were +constructed after I came. The composition was of such a nature that, +unless protected by roofs and verandas,[8] the mud would slowly wash +away. The walls, however, also requiring months in which to dry, were +generally three or four feet thick; and to this as well as to the +nature of the material may be attributed the fact that the houses in +the summer season were cool and comfortable, while in winter they were +warm and cheerful. They were usually rectangular in shape, and were +invariably provided with _patios_ and corridors. There was no such +thing as a basement under a house, and floors were frequently earthen. +Conventionality prescribed no limit as to the number of rooms, an +adobe frequently having a sitting-room, a dining-room, a kitchen and +as many bedrooms as were required; but there were few, if any, +"frills" for the mere sake of style. Most adobes were but one story in +height, although there were a few two-story houses; and it is my +recollection that, in such cases, the second story was reached from +the outside. Everything about an adobe was emblematic of hospitality: +the doors, heavy and often apparently home-made, were wide, and the +windows were deep. In private houses, the doors were locked with a +key; but in some of the stores, they were fastened with a bolt fitted +into iron receptacles on either side. The windows, swinging on hinges, +opened inward and were locked in the center. There were few curtains +or blinds; wooden shutters, an inch thick, also fastening in the +center, being generally used instead. If there were such conveniences +as hearths and fireplaces, I cannot recollect them, although I think +that here and there the _brasero_, or pan and hot coals, was still +employed. There were no chimneys, and the smoke, as from the kitchen +stove, escaped through the regular stacks leading out through a pane +in the window or a hole in the wall. The porches, also spoken of as +verandas and rather wide, were supported by equidistant perpendicular +posts; and when an adobe had two stories, the veranda was also +double-storied. Few if any vines grew around these verandas in early +days, largely because of the high cost of water. For the same reason, +there were almost no gardens. + +The roofs which, as I have intimated, proved as necessary to preserve +the adobe as to afford protection from the semi-tropical sun, were +generally covered with asphalt and were usually flat in order to keep +the tar from running off. As well as I can recollect, Vicente +Salsido--or Salcito, as his name was also written--who lived in or +somewhere near Nigger Alley, was the only man then engaged in the +business of mending pitch-roofs. When winter approached and the first +rainfall produced leaks, there was a general demand for Salsido's +services and a great scramble among owners of buildings to obtain +them. Such was the need, in fact, that more than one family, drowned +out while waiting, was compelled to move to the drier quarters of +relatives or friends, there to stay until the roofer could attend to +their own houses. Under a huge kettle, put up in the public street, +Salsido set fire to some wood, threw in his pitch and melted it. Then, +after he or a helper had climbed onto the roof, the molten pitch was +hauled up in buckets and poured over the troublesome leaks. Much of +this tar was imported from the North, but some was obtained in this +locality, particularly from so-called springs on the Hancock ranch, +which for a long time have furnished great quantities of the useful, +if unattractive, substance. This asphalt was later used for sidewalks, +and even into the eighties was employed as fuel. To return to Salsido, +I might add that in summer the pitch-roofer had no work at all. + +Besides the adobes with their asphalt roofs, some houses, erected +within the first quarter of the Nineteenth Century, were covered with +tiles. The most notable tiled building was the old Church, whose roof +was unfortunately removed when the edifice was so extensively +renovated. The Carrillo home was topped with these ancient tiles, as +were also José María Ábila's residence; Vicente Sanchez's two-story +adobe south of the Plaza, and the Alvarado house on First Street, +between Main and Los Angeles streets. + +It was my impression that there were no bricks in Los Angeles when I +first came, although about 1854 or 1855 Jacob Weixel had the first +regular brickyard. In conversation with old-timers, however, many +years ago, I was assured that Captain Jesse Hunter, whom I recall, had +built a kiln not far from the later site of the Potomac Block, on Fort +Street, between Second and Third; and that, as early as 1853, he had +put up a brick building on the west side of Main Street, about one +hundred and fifty feet south of the present site of the Bullard Block. +This was for Mayor Nichols, who paid Hunter thirty dollars a thousand +for the new and more attractive kind of building material. This +pioneer brick building has long since disappeared. Hunter seems to +have come to Los Angeles alone, and to have been followed across the +plains by his wife, two sons and three daughters, taking up his +permanent residence here in 1856. One of the daughters married a man +named Burke, who conducted a blacksmith and wagon shop in Hunter's +Building on Main Street. Hunter died in 1874. Dr. William A. Hammel, +father of Sheriff William Hammel, who came to California during the +gold excitement of '49, had one of the first red brick houses in Los +Angeles, on San Pedro Street, between Second and Third. + +Sometime in 1853, or perhaps in 1854, the first building erected by +the public in Los Angeles County was put together here of brick baked +in the second kiln ever fired in the city. It was the Town Jail on the +site of the present Phillips Block,[9] at the northwest corner of +Spring and Franklin streets. This building took the place of the first +County Jail, a rude adobe that stood on the hill back of the present +National Government Building. In that jail, I have understood, there +were no cells, and prisoners were fastened by chains to logs outside. + +_Zanja_ water was being used for irrigation when I arrived. A system +of seven or eight _zanjas_, or open ditches--originated, I have no +doubt, by the Catholic Fathers--was then in operation, although it +was not placed under the supervision of a _Zanjero_, or Water +Commissioner, until 1854. These small surface canals connected at the +source with the _zanja madre_, or mother ditch, on the north side of +the town, from which they received their supply; the _zanja madre_ +itself being fed from the river, at a point a long way from town. The +_Zanjero_ issued permits, for which application had to be made some +days in advance, authorizing the use of the water for irrigation +purposes. A certain amount was paid for the use of this water during a +period of twelve hours, without any limit as to the quantity consumed, +and the purchaser was permitted to draw his supply both day and night. + +Water for domestic uses was a still more expensive luxury. Inhabitants +living in the immediate neighborhood of _zanjas_, or near the river, +helped themselves; but their less-fortunate brethren were served by a +carrier, who charged fifty cents a week for one bucket a day, while he +did not deliver on Sunday at all. Extra requirements were met on the +same basis; and in order to avoid an interruption in the supply, +prompt settlement of the charge had to be made every Saturday evening. +This character was known as Bill the Waterman. He was a tall American, +about thirty or thirty-five years old; he had a mustache, wore long, +rubber boots coming nearly to his waist, and presented the general +appearance of a laboring man; and his somewhat rickety vehicle, drawn +by two superannuated horses, slowly conveyed the man and his barrel of +about sixty gallons capacity from house to house. He was a wise +dispenser, and quite alert to each household's needs. + +Bill obtained his supply from the Los Angeles River, where at best it +was none too clean, in part owing to the frequent passage of the river +by man and beast. Animals of all kinds, including cattle, horses, +sheep, pigs, mules and donkeys, crossed and recrossed the stream +continually, so that the mud was incessantly stirred up, and the +polluted product proved unpalatable and even, undoubtedly, +unhealthful. To make matters worse, the river and the _zanjas_ were +the favorite bathing-places, all the urchins of the hamlet disporting +themselves there daily, while most of the adults, also, frequently +immersed themselves. Both the yet unbridged stream and the _zanjas_, +therefore, were repeatedly contaminated, although common sense should +have protected the former to a greater or less extent; while as to the +latter there were ordinances drawn up by the Common Council of 1850 +which prohibited the throwing of filth into fresh water designed for +common use, and also forbade the washing of clothes on the _zanja_ +banks. This latter regulation was disobeyed by the native women, who +continued to gather there, dip their soiled garments in the water, +place them on stones and beat them with sticks, a method then popular +for the extraction of dirt. + +Besides Bill the Waterman, Dan Schieck was a water-vender, but at a +somewhat later date. Proceeding to the _zanja_ in a curious old cart, +he would draw the water he needed, fresh every morning, and make daily +deliveries at customers' houses for a couple of dollars a month. +Schieck forsook this business, however, and went into draying, making +a specialty of meeting Banning's coaches and transferring the +passengers to their several destinations. He was a frugal man, and +accumulated enough to buy the southwest corner of Franklin and Spring +streets. As a result, he left property of considerable value. He died +about twenty-five years ago; Mrs. Schieck, who was a sister of John +Fröhling, died in 1874. + +Just one more reference to the drinking-water of that period. When +delivered to the customer, it was emptied into _ollas_, or urn-shaped +vessels, made from burned clay or terra cotta. Every family and every +store was provided with at least one of these containers which, being +slightly porous, possessed the virtue (of particular value at a time +when there was no ice) of keeping the water cool and refreshing. The +_olla_ commonly in use had a capacity of four or five gallons, and was +usually suspended from the ceiling of a porch or other convenient +place; while attached to this domestic reservoir, as a rule, was a +long-handled dipper generally made from a gourd. Filters were not in +use, in consequence of which fastidious people washed out their +_ollas_ very frequently. These wide-mouthed pots recall to me an +appetizing Spanish dish, known as _olla-podrida_, a stew consisting of +various spiced meats, chopped fine, and an equally varied assortment +of vegetables, partaken of separately; all bringing to mind, perhaps, +Thackeray's sentimental _Ballad of Bouillabaisse_. Considering these +inconveniences, how surprising it is that the Common Council, in 1853, +should have frowned upon Judge William G. Dryden's proposition to +distribute, in pipes, all the water needed for domestic use. + +On May 16th, 1854, the first Masonic lodge--then and now known as +42--received its charter, having worked under special dispensation +since the preceding December. The first officers chosen were: H. P. +Dorsey, Master; J. Elias, Senior Warden; Thomas Foster, Junior Warden; +James R. Barton, Treasurer; Timothy Foster, Secretary; Jacob Rich, +Senior Deacon; and W. A. Smith, Tyler. + +For about three decades after my arrival, smallpox epidemics visited +us somewhat regularly every other year, and the effect on the town was +exceedingly bad. The whole population was on such a friendly footing +that every death made a very great impression. The native element was +always averse to vaccination and other sanitary measures; everybody +objected to isolation, and disinfecting was unknown. In more than one +familiar case, the surviving members of a stricken family went into +the homes of their kinsmen, notwithstanding the danger of contagion. +Is it any wonder, therefore, when such ignorance was universal, that +the pest spread alarmingly and that the death-rate was high? + +The smallpox wagon, dubbed the _Black Maria_, was a frequent sight on +the streets of Los Angeles during these sieges. There was an isolated +pesthouse near the Chavez Ravine, but the patients of the better class +were always treated at home, where the sanitation was never good; and +at best the community was seriously exposed. Consternation seized the +public mind, communication with the outside world was disturbed, and +these epidemics were the invariable signal for business disorder and +crises. + +This matter of primitive sanitation reminds me of an experience. To +accommodate an old iron bath-tub that I wished to set up in my Main +Street home in the late sixties, I was obliged to select one of the +bedrooms; since, when my adobe was built, the idea of having a +separate bathroom in a house had never occurred to any owner. I +connected it with the _zanja_ at the rear of my lot by means of a +wooden conduit; which, although it did not join very closely, answered +all purposes for the discharge of waste water. One of my children for +several years slept in this combination bath- and bedroom; and +although the plumbing was as old-fashioned as it well could be, yet +during all that time there was no sickness in our family. + +It was fortunate indeed that the adobe construction of the fifties +rendered houses practically fireproof since, in the absence of a +water-system, a bucket-brigade was all there was to fight a fire with, +and this rendered but poor service. I remember such a brigade at work, +some years after I came, in the vicinity of the Bell Block, when a +chain of helpers formed a relay from the nearest _zanja_ to the +blazing structure. Buckets were passed briskly along, from person to +person, as in the animated scene described by Schiller in the +well-known lines of _Das Lied von der Glocke_: + + _Durch der Hände lange Kette + Um die Wette + Fliegt der Eimer_;[10] + +a process which was continued until the fire had exhausted itself. +Francis Mellus had a little hand-cart, but for lack of water it was +generally useless. Instead of fire-bells announcing to the people that +a conflagration was in progress, the discharging of pistols in rapid +succession gave the alarm and was the signal for a general fusillade +throughout the neighboring streets. Indeed, this method of sounding a +fire-alarm was used as late as the eighties. On the breaking out of +fires, neighbors and friends rushed to assist the victim in saving +what they could of his property. + +On account of the inadequate facilities for extinguishing anything +like a conflagration, it transpired that insurance companies would not +for some time accept risks in Los Angeles. If I am not mistaken, S. +Lazard obtained the first protection late in the fifties and paid a +premium of four per cent. The policy was issued by the Hamburg-Bremen +Company, through Adelsdorfer Brothers of San Francisco, who also +imported foreign merchandise; and Lazard, thereafter, as the Los +Angeles agent for the Hamburg-Bremen Company, was the first insurance +underwriter here of whom I have any knowledge. Adelsdorfer Brothers, +it is also interesting to note, imported the first Swedish matches +brought into California, perhaps having in mind cause and effect with +profit at both ends; they put them on the retail market in Los Angeles +at twenty-five cents a package. + +This matter of fires calls to mind an interesting feature of the city +when I first saw it. When Henry, or Enrique Dalton sailed from +England, he shipped a couple of corrugated iron buildings, taking them +to South America where he used them for several years. On coming to +Los Angeles, he brought the buildings with him, and they were set up +at the site of the present corner of Spring and Court streets. In a +sense, therefore, these much-transported iron structures (one of +which, in 1858, I rented as a storeroom for wool) came to be among the +earliest "fire-proof" buildings here. + +As early as 1854, the need of better communication between Los Angeles +and the outside world was beginning to be felt; and in the summer of +that year the Supervisors--D. W. Alexander, S. C. Foster, J. +Sepúlveda, C. Aguilar and S. S. Thompson--voted to spend one thousand +dollars to open a wagon road over the mountains between the San +Fernando Mission and the San Francisco _rancho_. A rather broad trail +already existed there; but such was its grade that many a pioneer, +compelled to use a windlass or other contrivance to let down his +wagon in safety, will never forget the real perils of the descent. For +years it was a familiar experience with stages, on which I sometimes +traveled, to attach chains or boards to retard their downward +movement; nor were passengers even then without anxiety until the +hill- or mountain-side had been passed. + +During 1854, Mr. and Mrs. Joseph Newmark and family, whom I had met, +the year before, for a few hours in San Francisco, arrived here and +located in the one-story adobe owned by John Goller and adjoining his +blacksmith shop. There were six children--Matilda, Myer J., Sarah, +Edward, Caroline and Harriet--all of whom had been born in New York +City. With their advent, my personal environment immediately changed: +they provided me with a congenial home; and as they at once began to +take part in local social activities, I soon became well acquainted. +My aunt took charge of my English education, and taught me to spell, +read and write in that language; and I have always held her efforts in +my behalf in grateful appreciation. As a matter of fact, having so +early been thrown into contact with Spanish-speaking neighbors and +patrons, I learned Spanish before I acquired English. + +The Newmarks had left New York on December 15th, 1852, on the ship +_Carrington_, T. B. French commanding, to make the trip around the +Horn, San Francisco being their destination. After a voyage for the +most part pleasant, although not altogether free from disagreeable +features and marked by much rough weather, they reached the Golden +Gate, having been four months and five days on the ocean. One of the +enjoyable incidents _en route_ was an old-fashioned celebration in +which _Neptune_ took part when they crossed the equator. In a diary of +that voyage kept by Myer J. Newmark, mention is made that "our +Democratic President, Franklin Pierce, and Vice-President, William R. +King, were inaugurated March 4th, 1853;" which reminds me that some +forty years later Judge H. A. Pierce, the President's cousin, and his +wife who was of literary proclivities, came to be my neighbors in Los +Angeles. Mr. and Mrs. Newmark and their family remained in San +Francisco until 1854. + +Joseph Newmark, formerly Neumark, born June 15th, 1799, was, I assume, +the first to adopt the English form of the name. He was genuinely +religious and exalted in character. His wife, Rosa, whom he married in +New York in 1835, was born in London on March 17th, 1808. He came to +America in 1824, spent a few years in New York, and resided for a +while in Somerset, Connecticut, where, on January 21st, 1831, he +joined the Masonic fraternity. During his first residence in New York, +he started the Elm Street Synagogue, one of the earliest in America. +In 1840, we find him in St. Louis, a pioneer indeed. Five years later +he was in Dubuque, Iowa, then a frontier village. In 1846, he once +more pitched his tent in New York; and during this sojourn he +organized the Wooster Street Congregation. Immediately after reaching +Los Angeles, he brought into existence the Los Angeles Hebrew +Benevolent Society, which met for some time at his home on Sunday +evenings, and which, I think, was the first charitable institution in +this city. Its principal objects were to care for the sick, to pay +proper respect, according to Jewish ritual, to the dead, and to look +after the Jewish Cemetery which was laid out about that time; so that +the Society at once became a real spiritual force and continued so for +several years. The first President was Jacob Elias. Although Mr. +Newmark had never served as a salaried Rabbi, he had been ordained +and was permitted to officiate; and one of the immediate results of +his influence was the establishment of worship on Jewish holidays, +under the auspices of the Society named. The first service was held in +the rear room of an adobe owned by John Temple. Joseph Newmark also +inspired the purchase of land for the Jewish Cemetery. After Rabbi +Edelman came, my uncle continued on various occasions to assist him. +When, in course of time, the population of Los Angeles increased, the +responsibilities of the Hebrew Benevolent Society were extended. +Although a Jewish organization, and none but Jews could become members +of it or receive burial in the Jewish Cemetery, its aim was to give +relief, as long as its financial condition would permit, to every +worthy person that appeared, whoever he was or whatever his creed. +Recalling this efficient organization, I may say that I believe myself +to be one of but two survivors among the charter members--S. Lazard +being the other. + +Kiln Messer was another pioneer who came around the Horn about that +time, although he arrived here from Germany a year later than I did; +and during his voyage, he had a trying experience in a shipwreck off +Cape Verde where, with his comrades, he had to wait a couple of months +before another vessel could be signaled. Even then he could get no +farther toward his destination--the Golden Gate--than Rio de Janeiro, +where he was delayed five or six months more. Finally reaching San +Francisco, he took to mining; but, weakened by fever (an experience +common among the gold-seekers), he made his way to Los Angeles. After +brewing beer for a while at the corner of Third and Main streets, +Messer bought a twenty-acre vineyard which, in 1857, he increased by +another purchase to forty-five or fifty acres; and it was his good +fortune that this property was so located as to be needed by the Santa +Fé Railroad, in 1888, as a terminal. Toward the end of the seventies, +Messer, moderately well-to-do, was a grocer at the corner of Rose and +First streets; and about 1885, he retired. + +Joseph Newmark brought with him to Los Angeles a Chinese servant, to +whom he paid one hundred dollars a month; and, as far as I know, this +Mongolian was the first to come to our city. This domestic item has +additional interest, perhaps, because it was but five or six years +before that the first Chinese to emigrate from the Celestial Kingdom +to California--two men and a lone woman--had come to San Francisco in +the ship _Eagle_ from Hong Kong. A year later, there were half a +hundred Chinamen in the territory, while at the end of still another +year, during the gold excitement, nearly a thousand Chinese entered +the Golden Gate. + +The housekeeping experiences of Mr. and Mrs. Joseph Newmark remind me +that it was not easy in the early days to get satisfactory domestic +service. Indians, negroes and sometimes Mexicans were employed, until +the arrival of more Chinese and the coming of white girls. Joseph +Newmark, when I lived with his family, employed, in addition to the +Chinaman, an Indian named Pedro who had come with his wife from +Temécula and whose remuneration was fifty cents a day; and these +servants attended to most of the household duties. The annual _fiesta_ +at Temécula used to attract Pedro and his better-half; and while they +were absent, the Newmark girls did the work. + +My new home was very congenial, not the least of its attractions being +the family associations at meal-time. The opportunities for obtaining +a variety of food were not as good perhaps as they are to-day, and yet +some delicacies were more in evidence. Among these I might mention +wild game and chickens. Turkeys, of all poultry, were the scarcest and +most-prized. All in all, our ordinary fare has not changed so much +except in the use of mutton, certain vegetables, ice and a few +dainties. + +There was no extravagance in the furnishing of pioneer homes. Few +people coming to Los Angeles expected to locate permanently; they +usually planned to accumulate a small competency and then return to +their native heaths. In consequence, little attention was paid to +quality or styles, and it is hard to convey a comprehensive idea of +the prevailing lack of ordinary comforts. For many years the inner +walls of adobes were whitewashed--a method of mural finish not the +most agreeable, since the coating so easily "came off;" and only in +the later periods of frame houses, did we have kalsomined and +hard-finished wall surfaces. Just when papered and tinted walls came +in, I do not remember; but they were long delayed. Furniture was plain +and none too plentiful; and glassware and tableware were of an +inferior grade. + +Certain vegetables were abundant, truck-gardening having been +introduced here in the early fifties by Andrew Briswalter, an Alsatian +by birth and an original character. He first operated on San Pedro +Street, where he rented a tract of land and peddled his vegetables in +a wheelbarrow, charging big prices. So quickly did he prosper that he +was soon able to buy a piece of land, as well as a horse and wagon. +When he died, in the eighties, he bequeathed a large estate, +consisting of City and County acreage and lots, in the disposition of +which he unrighteously cut off his only niece. Playa del Rey was later +built on some of this land. Acres of fruit trees, fronting on Main, in +the neighborhood of the present Ninth and Tenth streets, and extending +far in an easterly direction, formed another part of his holding. It +was on this land that Briswalter lived until his last illness. He +bought this tract from O. W. Childs, it having originally belonged to +H. C. Cardwell, a son-in-law of William Wolfskill--the same Cardwell +who introduced here, on January 7th, 1856, the heretofore unknown +seedling strawberries. + +One Mumus was in the field nearly as soon as Briswalter. A few years +later, Chinese vegetable men came to monopolize this trade. Most of +their gardens neighbored on what is now Figueroa Street, north of +Pico; and then, as now, they peddled their wares from wagons. Wild +celery grew in quantities around the _zanjas_, but was not much liked. +Cultivated celery, on the other hand, was in demand and was brought +from the North, whence we also imported most of our cabbage, +cauliflower and asparagus. But after a while, the Chinese also +cultivated celery; and when, in the nineties, E. A. Curtis, D. E. +Smeltzer and others failed in an effort to grow celery, Curtis fell +back on the Chinese gardeners. The Orientals, though pestered by +envious workmen, finally made a success of the industry, helping to +establish what is now a most important local agricultural activity. + +These Chinese vegetable gardeners, by the way, came to practice a +trick[11] designed to reduce their expenses, and at which they were +sometimes caught. Having bargained with the authorities for a small +quantity of water, they would cut the _zanjas_, while the _Zanjero_ or +his assistants slept, steal the additional water needed, and, before +the arrival of the _Zanjero_ at daybreak, close the openings! + +J. Wesley Potts was an early arrival, having tramped across the Plains +all the way from Texas, in 1852, reaching Los Angeles in September. At +first, he could obtain nothing to do but haul dirt in a hand-cart for +the spasmodic patching-up of the streets; but when he had earned five +or six dollars in that way, he took to peddling fruit, first carrying +it around in a basket. Then he had a fruit stand. Getting the +gold-fever, however, Potts went to the mines; but despairing at last +of realizing anything there, he returned to Los Angeles and raised +vegetables, introducing, among other things, the first locally-grown +sweet potatoes put on the market--a stroke of enterprise recalling J. +E. Pleasants's early venture in cultivating garden pease. Later he was +widely known as a "weather prophet"--with predictions quite as likely +to be worthless as to come true. + +The prickly pear, the fruit of the cactus, was common in early Los +Angeles. It grew in profusion all over this Southern country, but +particularly so around San Gabriel at which place it was found in +almost obstructing quantities; and prickly pears bordered the gardens +of the Round House where they were plucked by visitors. Ugly enough +things to handle, they were, nevertheless, full of juice, and proved +refreshing and palatable when properly peeled. Pomegranates and +quinces were also numerous, but they were not cultivated for the +trade. Sycamore and oak trees were seen here and there, while the +willow was evident in almost jungle profuseness, especially around +river banks and along the borders of lanes. Wild mustard charmingly +variegated the landscape and _chaparral_ obscured many of the hills +and rising ground. In winter, the ground was thickly covered with +burr-clover and the poetically-named _alfilaria_. + +Writing of vegetables and fruit, I naturally think of one of +California's most popular products, the _sandía_ or watermelon, and of +its plenteousness in those more monotonous days when many and many a +_carreta_ load was brought to the indulging town. The melons were sold +direct from the vehicles, as well as in stores, and the street seemed +to be the principal place for the consumption of the luscious fruit. +It was a very common sight to see Indians and others sitting along the +roads, their faces buried in the green-pink depths. Some old-timers +troubled with diseases of the kidney, believing that there was virtue +in watermelon seeds, boiled them and used the tea medicinally. + +Fish, caught at San Pedro and peddled around town, was a favorite item +of food during the cooler months of the year. The _pescadero_, or +vender, used a loud fish horn, whose deep but not melodious tones +announced to the expectant housewife that he was at hand with a load +of sea-food. Owing to the poorer facilities for catching them, only a +few varieties of deep-water fish, such as barracuda, yellowtail and +rockfish were sold. + +Somewhere I have seen it stated that, in 1854, O. W. Childs brought +the first hive of bees from San Francisco at a cost of one hundred and +fifty dollars; but as nearly as I can recollect, a man named Logan +owned the first beehives and was, therefore, the pioneer +honey-producer. I remember paying him three dollars for a three-pound +box of comb-honey, but I have forgotten the date of the transaction. +In 1860, Cyrus Burdick purchased several swarms of bees and had no +difficulty in selling the honey at one dollar a pound. By the fall of +1861, the bee industry had so expanded that Perry & Woodworth, as I +have stated, devoted part of their time to the making of beehives. J. +E. Pleasants, of Santiago Cañon, known also for his Cashmere goats, +was another pioneer bee-man and received a gold medal for his exhibit +at the New Orleans Exposition. + +FOOTNOTES: + +[8] Verandas, spoken of locally as _corridors_; from which fact I may +use both terms interchangeably. + +[9] Recently razed. + +[10] Translated by Perry Worden for the centenary of _The Song of the +Bell_: + + Through each hand close-joined and waiting, + Emulating, + Flies the pail. + + +[11] History repeats itself: in 1915, ranchers at Zelzah were accused +of appropriating water from the new aqueduct, under cover of the +night, without paying for it. + + + + +CHAPTER X + +EARLY SOCIAL LIFE + +1854 + + +In June, 1854, my brother sold out, and I determined to establish +myself in business and thus become my own master. My lack of knowledge +of English was somewhat of a handicap; but youth and energy were in my +favor, and an eager desire to succeed overcame all obstacles. Upon +computing my worldly possessions, I found that I had saved nearly two +hundred and forty dollars, the sum total of my eight months' wages; +and this sum I invested in my first venture. My brother, J. P. +Newmark, opened a credit for me, which contributed materially to my +success; and I rented the store on the north side of Commercial +Street, about one hundred feet west of Los Angeles, owned by Mateo +Keller and just vacated by Prudent Beaudry. Little did I think, in so +doing, that, twelve years later, some Nemesis would cause Beaudry to +sell out to me. I fully realized the importance of succeeding in my +initial effort, and this requited me for seven months of sacrifices, +until January 1st, 1855, when I took an inventory and found a net +profit of fifteen hundred dollars. To give some idea of what was then +required to attain such success, I may say that, having no assistance +at all, I was absolutely a prisoner from early morning until late in +the evening--the usual hour of closing, as I have elsewhere explained, +being eight o'clock. From sweeping out to keeping books, I attended to +all my own work; and since I neither wished to go out and lock up nor +leave my stock long unprotected, I remained on guard all day, +giving the closest possible attention to my little store. + + [Illustration: Myer J. and Harris Newmark + From a Daguerreotype] + + [Illustration: George Carson] + + [Illustration: John G. Nichols] + + [Illustration: David W. Alexander] + + [Illustration: Thomas E. Rowan] + + [Illustration: Matthew Keller] + + [Illustration: Samuel Meyer] + +Business conditions in the fifties were necessarily very different +from what they are to-day. There was no bank in Los Angeles for some +years, although Downey and one or two others may have had some kind of +a safe. People generally hoarded their cash in deep, narrow buckskin +bags, hiding it behind merchandise on the shelves until the departure +of a steamer for San Francisco, or turning it into such vouchers as +were negotiable and could be obtained here. John Temple, who had a +ranch or two in the North (from which he sent cattle to his agent in +San Francisco), generally had a large reserve of cash to his credit +with butchers or bankers in the Northern city, and he was thus able to +issue drafts against his balances there; being glad enough to make the +exchange, free of cost. When, however, Temple had exhausted his cash, +the would-be remitter was compelled to send the coin itself by +express. He would then take the specie to the company's agent; and the +latter, in his presence, would do it up in a sealed package and charge +one dollar a hundred for safe transmission. No wonder, therefore, that +people found expressing coin somewhat expensive, and were more partial +to the other method. + +In the beginning of the fifties, too, silver was irregular in supply. +Nevada's treasures still lay undiscovered within the bowels of the +earth, and much foreign coin was in use here, leading the shrewdest +operators to import silver money from France, Spain, Mexico and other +countries. The size of coins, rather than their intrinsic value, was +then the standard. For example, a five-franc piece, a Mexican dollar +or a coin of similar size from any other country passed for a dollar +here; while a Mexican twenty-five-cent piece, worth but fourteen +cents, was accepted for an American quarter, so that these importers +did a "land-office" business. Half-dollars and their equivalents were +very scarce; and these coins being in great demand among gamblers, it +often happened that they would absorb the supply. This forced such a +premium that eighteen dollars in silver would commonly bring twenty +dollars in gold. + +Most of the output of the mines of Southern California--then rated as +the best dust--went to San Francisco assayers, who minted it into +octagonal and round pieces known as slugs. Among those issuing +privately-stamped coins were J. S. Ormsby (whose mark, _J. S. O._, +became familiar) and Augustus Humbert, both of whom circulated +eight-cornered ingots; and Wass Molitor & Co., whose slugs were always +round. Pieces of the value of from one to twenty-five dollars, and +even miniature coins for fractional parts of a dollar, were also +minted; while F. D. Kohler, the State Assayer, made an oblong ingot +worth about fifty dollars. Some of the other important assaying +concerns were Moffatt & Co., Kellogg & Co. and Templeton Reid. Baldwin +& Co. was another firm which issued coins of smaller denomination; and +to this firm belonged David Colbert Broderick, who was killed by +Terry. + +Usurers were here from the beginning, and their tax was often +ruinously exorbitant. So much did they charge for money, in fact, that +from two to twelve and a half per cent. _a week_ was paid; this +brought about the loss of many early estates. I recollect, for +example, that the owner of several thousand acres of land borrowed two +hundred dollars, at an interest charge of twelve and a half per cent. +for each week, from a resident of Los Angeles whose family is still +prominent in California; and that when principal and interest amounted +to twenty-two thousand dollars, the lender foreclosed and thus +ingloriously came into possession of a magnificent property. + +For at least twenty years after I arrived in Los Angeles, the credit +system was so irregular as to be no system at all. Land and other +values were exceedingly low, there was not much ready money, and while +the credit of a large rancher was small compared with what his rating +would be today because of the tremendous advances in land and stock, +much longer time was then given on running accounts than would be +allowed now. Bills were generally settled after the harvest. The +wine-grower would pay his score when the grape crop was sold; and the +cattleman would liquidate what he could when he sold his cattle. In +other words, there was no credit foundation whatever; indeed, I have +known accounts to be carried through three and four dry seasons. + +It is true, also, that many a fine property was lost through the mania +of the Californian for gambling, and it might be just as well to add +that the loose credit system ruined many. I believe, in fact, it is +generally recognized in certain lines of business that the too +flexible local fiscal practice of to-day is the descendant of the +careless methods of the past. + +My early experiences as a merchant afforded me a good opportunity to +observe the character and peculiarities of the people with whom I had +to deal. In those days a disposition to steal was a common weakness on +the part of many, especially Indians, and merchants generally suffered +so much from the evil that a sharp lookout had to be kept. On one +occasion, I saw a native woman deftly abstract a pair of shoes and +cleverly secrete them on her person; and at the conclusion of her +purchases, as she was about to leave the store, I stepped up to her, +and with a "_¡Dispense me Vd.!_" quietly recovered the _zapatos_. The +woman smiled, each of us bowed, the pilfering patron departed, and +nothing further was ever said of the affair. + +This proneness to steal was frequently utilized by early and astute +traders, who kept on hand a stock of very cheap but gaudy jewelry +which was placed on the counter within easy reach--a device which +prevented the filching of more valuable articles, while it attracted, +at the same time, this class of customers; and as soon as the esteemed +customers ceased to buy, the trays of tempting trinkets were removed. + +Shyness of the truth was another characteristic of many a native that +often had to be reckoned with by merchants wishing to accommodate, as +far as possible, while avoiding loss. One day in 1854, a middle-aged +Indian related to me that his mother (who was living half a block +north on Main Street, and was between eighty and ninety years of age) +had suddenly died, and that he would like some candles, for which he +was unable to pay, to place around the bed holding the remains of the +departed. I could not refuse this filial request, and straightway gave +him the wax tapers which were to be used for so holy a purpose. The +following day, however, I met the old woman on the street and she was +as lively a corpse as one might ever expect to see; leaving me to +conclude that she was lighted to her room, the previous night, by one +of the very candles supposed to be then lighting her to eternity. + +The fact that I used to order straw hats which came telescoped in +dozens and were of the same pattern (in the crown of one of which, at +the top, I found one morning a litter of kittens tenderly deposited +there by the store cat), recalls an amusing incident showing the +modesty of the times, at least in the style of ladies' bonnets. S. +Lazard & Company once made an importation of Leghorn hats which, when +they arrived, were found to be all trimmed alike--a bit of ribbon and +a little bunch of artificial flowers in front being their only +ornamentation! Practically, all the fair damsels and matrons of the +town were limited, for the season, to this supply--a fact that was +patent enough, a few days later, at a picnic held at Sainsevain's +favorite vineyard and well patronized by the feminine leaders in our +little world. + +But to return to one or two pioneers. David Workman died soon after he +came here, in 1854, with his wife whose maiden name was Nancy Hook. He +was a brother of William Workman and followed him to Los Angeles, +bringing his three sons, Thomas H.--killed in the explosion of the +_Ada Hancock_--Elijah H. and William H., who was for a while a printer +and later in partnership with his brother in the saddlery business. +Elijah once owned a tract of land stretching from what is now Main to +Hill streets and around Twelfth. Workman Street is named after this +family. + +Henry Mellus, brother of Francis Mellus, to whom I elsewhere more +fully refer, who had returned to New England, was among us again in +1854. Whether this was the occasion of Mellus's unfortunate +investment, or not, I cannot say; but on one of his trips to the East, +he lost a quarter of a million through an unlucky investment in iron. + +Jean B. Trudell (a nephew of Damien Marchessault and a cousin of P. +Beaudry), for a short time in partnership with S. Lazard, was an +old-timer who married Anita, the widow of Henry Mellus; and through +this union a large family resulted. He conducted salt works, from +which he supplied the town with all grades of cheap salt; and he stood +well in the community. Mrs. Trudell took care of her aunt, Mrs. Bell, +during her later years. + +With the growth of our little town, newspapers increased, even though +they did not exactly prosper. On the 20th of July, 1854, C. N. +Richards & Company started the _Southern Californian_, a name no doubt +suggested by that of the San Francisco journal, with William Butts as +editor; and on November 2d, Colonel John O. Wheeler joined Butts and +bought out Richards & Company. Their paper was printed in one of +Dalton's corrugated iron houses. The _Southern Californian_ was a +four-page weekly, on one side of which news, editorials and +advertisements, often mere translations of matter in the other +columns, were published in Spanish. One result of the appearance of +this paper was that Waite & Company, a month or so later, reduced the +subscription price of the _Star_--their new rate being nine dollars a +year, or six dollars in advance. + +In 1853, a number of Spanish-American restaurant keepers plied their +vocation, so that Mexican and Spanish cooking were always obtainable. +Then came the _cafetería_, but the term was used with a different +significance from that now in vogue. It was rather a place for +drinking than for eating, and in this respect the name had little of +the meaning current in parts of Mexico to-day, where a _cafetería_ is +a small restaurant serving ordinary alcoholic drinks and plain meals. +Nor was the institution the same as that familiarly known in Pacific +Coast towns, and particularly in Los Angeles--one of the first +American cities to experiment with this departure; where a +considerable variety of food (mostly cooked and warm) is displayed to +view, and the prospective diner, having secured his tray and napkin, +knife, fork and spoons, indicates his choice as he passes by the +steam-heated tables and is helped to whatever he selects, and then +carries both service and viands to a small table. + +The native population followed their own _cuisine_, and the visitor +to Spanish-American homes naturally partook of native food. All the +Mexican dishes that are common now, such as _tamales_, _enchiladas_ +and _frijoles_, were favorite dishes then. There were many saloons in +Sonora Town and elsewhere, and _mescal_ and _aguardiente_, popular +drinks with the Mexicans, were also indulged in by the first white +settlers. Although there were imported wines, the wine-drinkers +generally patronized the local product. This was a very cheap article, +costing about fifteen cents a gallon, and was usually supplied with +meals, without extra charge. _Tamales_ in particular were very popular +with the Californians, but it took some time for the incoming epicure +to appreciate all that was claimed for them and other masterpieces of +Mexican cooking. + +The _tortilla_ was another favorite, being a generous-sized maize +cake, round and rather thin, in the early preparation of which the +grain was softened, cleaned and parboiled, after which it was rolled +and crushed between two pieces of flat stone. Deft hands then worked +the product into a pancake, which was placed, sometimes on a piece of +stoneware, sometimes on a plate of iron, and baked, first on one side +and then on the other. A part of the trick in _tortilla_-baking +consisted in its delicate toasting; and when just the right degree of +parching had been reached, the crisp, tasty _tortilla_ was ready to +maintain its position even against more pretentious members of the +pancake family. + +_Pan de huevos_, or bread of eggs, was peddled around town on little +trays by Mexican women and, when well-prepared, was very palatable. +_Panocha_, a dark Mexican sugar made into cakes, was also vended by +native women. _Pinole_ was brought in by Indians; and as far as I can +remember, it could not have had a very exact meaning, since I have +heard the term applied both to ground pinenuts and ground corn, and it +may also have been used to mean other food prepared in the same +manner. Be this as it may, the value to the Indian came from the fact +that, when mixed with water, _pinole_ proved a cheap, but nutritious +article of diet. + +I have told of the old-fashioned, comfortable adobes, broad and +liberal, whose halls, rooms, verandas and _patios_ bespoke at least +comfort if not elaborateness. Among the old California families +dwelling within these houses, there was much visiting and +entertainment, and I often partook of this proverbial and princely +hospitality. There was also much merry-making, the firing of crackers, +bell-ringing and dancing the _fandango_, _jota_ and _cachucha_ marking +their jolly and whole-souled _fiestas_. Only for the first few years +after I came was the real _fandango_--so popular when Dana visited Los +Angeles and first saw Don Juan Bandini execute the dance--witnessed +here; little by little it went out of fashion, perhaps in part because +of the skill required for its performance. Balls and hops, however, +for a long time were carelessly called by that name. When the +_fandango_ really was in vogue, Bandini, António Coronel, Andrés Pico, +the Lugos and other native Californians were among its most noted +exponents; they often hired a hall, gave a _fandango_ in which they +did not hesitate to take the leading parts, and turned the whole +proceeds over to some church or charity. On such occasions not merely +the plain people (always so responsive to music and its accompanying +pleasures) were the _fandangueros_, but the flower of our local +society turned out _en masse_, adding to the affair a high degree of +_éclat_. There was no end, too, of good things to eat and drink, which +people managed somehow to pass around; and the enjoyment was not +lessened by the fact that every such dance hall was crowded to the +walls, and that the atmosphere, relieved by but a narrow door and +window or two, was literally thick with both dust and smoke. + +Still living are some who have memories of these old _fandango_ days +and the journeys taken from suburb to town in order to participate in +them. Doña Petra Pilar Lanfranco used to tell me how, as a young girl, +she came up from the old Palos Verdes ranch house in a _carreta_ and +was always chaperoned by a lady relative. On such occasions, the +_carreta_ would be provided with mattresses, pillows and covers, while +at the end, well strapped, was the trunk containing the finery to be +worn at the ball. To reach town even from a point that would now be +regarded as near, a start was generally made by four o'clock in the +morning; and it often took until late the same evening to arrive at +the Bella Union, where final preparations were made. + +One of the pleasant features of a _fandango_ or hop was the use of +_cascarones_, or egg-shells, filled with one thing or another, +agreeable when scattered, and for the time being sealed up. These +shells were generally painted; and most often they contained +many-colored pieces of paper, or the tinsel, _oropel_, cut up very +fine. Not infrequently the shell of the egg was filled with perfume; +and in the days when Californians were flush, gold leaf or even gold +dust was sometimes thus inclosed, with a wafer, and kept for the +_casamiento_, when it would be showered upon the fortunate bride. The +greatest compliment that a gentleman could pay a lady was to break one +of these _cascarones_ over her head, and often the compliment would be +returned; the floor, at the termination of such festivities, being +literally covered with the bits of paper and egg-shell. When the +_fandango_ was on in all its mad delight, a gentleman would approach a +lady to salute her, upon which she would bow her head slightly and +permit him, while he gently squeezed the egg-shell, to let its +contents fall gracefully over her head, neck and shoulders; and very +often she would cleverly choose the right moment--perhaps when he was +not looking--to politely reciprocate the courtesy, under which +circumstances he was in duty bound to detect, if he could, among the +smiling, blushing ladies, the one who had ventured so agreeably to +offend. Such was the courtliness, in fact, among the native population +that even at _fandangos_, in which the public participated and the +compliment of the _cascarón_ was almost universally observed, there +was seldom a violation of regard for another's feelings. When such +rowdyism did occur, however (prompted perhaps by jealousy), and bad +eggs or that which was even less aromatic, were substituted, serious +trouble ensued; and one or two fatalities are on record as growing out +of such senseless acts. Speaking of _fandangos_, it may be added that +in January, 1861, the Common Council of Los Angeles passed an +ordinance requiring the payment in advance of ten dollars for a +one-night license to hold any public dance within the city limits. + +The pueblo was so small in the fifties, and the number of white people +so limited that, whenever a newcomer arrived, it caused considerable +general excitement; and when it infrequently happened that persons of +note came for even a single night, a deputation of prominent citizens +made their short stay both noisy with cannonading and tiresome with +spread-eagle oratory. + +A very important individual in early days was Peter Biggs, or Nigger +Pete, a pioneer barber who came here in 1852, having previously been +sold as a slave to an officer at Fort Leavenworth and freed, in +California, at the close of the Mexican War. He was a black-haired, +good-natured man, then about forty years of age, and had a shop on +Main Street, near the Bella Union. He was, indeed, the only barber in +town who catered to Americans, and while by no means of the highest +tonsorial capacity, was sufficiently appreciative of his monopoly to +charge fifty cents for shaving and seventy-five cents for +hair-cutting. When, however, a Frenchman named Felix Signoret (whose +daughter married Ed. McGinnis, the high-toned saloon keeper) appeared, +some years later--a barber by trade, of whom we shall hear more +later--it was not long before Pete was seriously embarrassed, being +compelled, first to reduce his prices and then to look for more humble +work. In the early sixties, Pete was advertising as follows: + + NEW ORLEANS SHAVING SALOON + OPPOSITE MELLUS' STORE ON MAIN STREET. + + PRICES REDUCED! + To Keep Pace with the Times + Shaving 12½c. + Hair-cutting 25c. + Shampoo_n_ing 25c. + + Peter Biggs will always be on hand and ready to attend to + all business in his line, such as cleaning and polishing + the "understanding" together with an Intelligence Office + and City Express. Also washing and ironing done with all + neatness and despatch, at reasonable rates. + +Recalling Biggs and his barber shop, I may say that, in fitting up his +place, he made little or no pretension. He had an old-fashioned, +high-backed chair, but otherwise operated much as barbers do to-day. +People sat around waiting their turn; and as Biggs called "Next!" he +sprinkled the last victim with Florida water, applying to the hair at +the same time his _Bear Oil_ (sure to leave its mark on walls and +pillows), after which, with a soiled towel he put on the finishing +touch--for one towel in those days served many customers. But few +patrons had their private cups. Biggs served only men and boys, as +ladies dressed their own hair. To some extent, Biggs was a maker or, +at least, a purveyor of wigs. + +Besides Peter Biggs, a number of colored people lived in Los Angeles +at an early date--five of whom belonged to the Mexican Veterans--Bob +Owens and his wife being among the most prominent. Owens--who came +here from Texas in December, 1853--was known to his friends as Uncle +Bob, while Mrs. Owens was called Aunt Winnie. The former at first did +all kinds of odd jobs, later profiting through dealings with the +Government; while his good wife washed clothes, in which capacity she +worked from time to time for my family. They lived in San Pedro +Street, and invested their savings in a lot extending from Spring to +Fort streets, between Third and Fourth. Owens died in 1865. Their +heirs are wealthy as a result of this investment; in fact, I should +not be surprised if they are among the most prosperous negroes in +America. + +Another colored man of the sixties was named Berry, though he was +popularly known as Uncle George. He was indeed a local character, a +kind of popinjay; and when not busy with janitor or other all-around +scrubwork, sported among the negroes as an ultra-fashionable. + +Elsewhere I have spoken of the versatility of Dr. William B. Osburn, +who showed no little commendable enterprise. In October, 1854, he +shipped to an agricultural convention in Albany, New York, the first +Los Angeles grapes ever sent to the East; and the next year he +imported roses, shrubbery and fruit trees from Rochester. + +On October 13th, 1854, a good-for-nothing gambler, Dave Brown--who had +planned to rob John Temple on one of his business trips, but was +thwarted because Temple changed his route--murdered a companion, +Pinckney Clifford, in a livery stable at what was later to become the +corner of Main and Court streets; and next day the lawless act created +such general indignation that vengeance on Brown would undoubtedly +then and there have been wreaked had not Stephen C. Foster, who was +Mayor, met the crowd of citizens and persuaded them quietly to +disperse. In order to mollify the would-be Vigilantes, Foster promised +that, if the case miscarried in the courts and Brown was not given his +due, he would resign his office and would himself lead those who +favored taking the law into their own hands; and as Foster had been a +Lieutenant in the Rangers under Dr. Hope, showing himself to be a man +of nerve, the crowd had confidence in him and went its way. + +On November 30th, Brown was tried in the District Court, and Judge +Benjamin Hayes sentenced him to hang on January 12th, 1855--the same +date on which Felipe Alvitre, a half-breed Indian, was to pay the +penalty for killing James Ellington at El Monte. Brown's counsel were +J. R. Scott, Cameron E. Thom and J. A. Watson; and these attorneys +worked so hard and so effectively for their client that on January +10th, or two days before the date set for the execution, Judge Murray +of the Supreme Court granted Brown a stay, although apparently no +relief was provided for Alvitre. The latter was hanged in the +calaboose or jail yard, in the presence of a vast number of people, at +the time appointed. Alvitre having been strung up by Sheriff Barton +and his assistants, the rope broke, letting the wretch fall to the +ground, more dead than alive. This bungling so infuriated the crowd +that cries of "_Arriba! Arriba!_" (Up with him! up with him!) rent the +air. The executioners sprang forward, lifted the body, knotted the +rope together and once more drew aloft the writhing form. Then the +gallows was dismantled and the guards dismissed. + +The news that one execution had taken place, while the Court, in the +other case, had interfered, was speedily known by the crowds in the +streets and proved too much for the patience of the populace; and only +a leader or two were required to focus the indignation of the masses. +That leader appeared in Foster who, true to his word, resigned from +the office of Mayor and put himself at the head of the mob. Appeals, +evoking loud applause, were made by one speaker after another, each in +turn being lifted to the top of a barrel; and then the crowd began to +surge toward the jail. Poles and crowbars were brought, and a +blacksmith called for; and the prison doors, which had been locked, +bolted and barred, were broken in, very soon convincing the Sheriff +and his assistants--if any such conviction were needed--that it was +useless to resist. In a few minutes, Brown was reached, dragged out +and across Spring Street, and there hanged to the crossbeam of a +corral gateway opposite the old jail, the noose being drawn tight +while he was still attempting to address the crowd. + +When Brown was about to be disposed of, he was asked if he had +anything to say; to which he replied that he had no objection to +paying the penalty of his crime, but that he did take exception to a +"lot of _Greasers_" shuffling him off! Brown referred to the fact that +Mexicans especially were conspicuous among those who had hold of the +rope; and his coarsely-expressed objection striking a humorous vein +among the auditors, the order was given to indulge his fancy and +accommodate him--whereupon, Americans strung him up! One of those who +had previously volunteered to act as hangman for Brown was Juan +Gonzales; but within four months, that is, in May, 1855, Gonzales +himself was sent to the penitentiary by Judge Myron Norton, convicted +of horse-stealing. + +A rather amusing feature of this hanging was the manner in which the +report of it was served up to the public. The lynching-bee seemed +likely to come off about three o'clock in the afternoon, while the +steamer for San Francisco was to leave at ten o'clock on the same +morning; so that the schedules did not agree. A closer connection was +undoubtedly possible--at least so thought Billy Workman, then a typo +on the _Southern Californian_, who planned to print a full account of +the execution in time to reach the steamer. So Billy sat down and +wrote out every detail, even to the confession of the murderer on the +improvised gallows; and several hours before the tragic event actually +took place, the wet news-sheet was aboard the vessel and on its way +north. A few surplus copies gave the lynchers the unique opportunity, +while watching the stringing-up, of comparing the written story with +the affair as it actually occurred. + +While upon the subject of lynching, I wish to observe that I have +witnessed many such distressing affairs in Los Angeles; and that, +though the penalty of hanging was sometimes too severe for the crime +(and I have always deplored, as much as any of us ever did, the +administration of mob-justice) yet the safety of the better classes in +those troublous times often demanded quick and determined action, and +stern necessity knew no law. And what is more, others besides myself +who have also repeatedly faced dangers no longer common, agree with me +in declaring, after half a century of observation and reflection, that +milder courses than those of the vigilance committees of our young +community could hardly have been followed with wisdom and safety. + +Wood was the only regular fuel for many years, and people were +accustomed to buy it in quantities and to pile it carefully in their +yards. When it was more or less of a drug on the market, I paid as +little as three dollars and a half a cord; in winter I had to pay +more, but the price was never high. No tree was spared, and I have +known magnificent oaks to be wantonly felled and used for fuel. +Valuable timber was often destroyed by squatters guilty of a form of +trespassing that gave much trouble, as I can testify from my own +experience. + +Henry Dwight Barrows, who had been educated as a Yankee schoolmaster, +arrived in Los Angeles in December, 1854, as private tutor to William +Wolfskill. Other parts of Barrows's career were common to many +pioneers: he was in business for a while in New York, caught the +gold-fever, gave up everything to make the journey across the Isthmus +of Panamá, on which trip he was herded as one of seventeen hundred +passengers on a rickety Coast vessel; and finally, after some +unsuccessful experiences as a miner in Northern California, he made +his way to the Southland to accept the proffered tutorship, hoping to +be cured of the malarial fever which he had contracted during his +adventures. Barrows taught here three years, returned East by steamer +for a brief trip in 1857, and in 1859-60 tried his hand at cultivating +grapes, in a vineyard owned by Prudent Beaudry. On November 14th, +1860, Barrows was married to Wolfskill's daughter, Señorita Juana; and +later he was County School Superintendent. In 1861, President Lincoln +appointed Barrows United States Marshal, the duties of which office he +performed for four years. In 1864, having lost his wife he married the +widow (formerly Miss Alice Woodworth) of Thomas Workman. The same year +he formed a partnership with J. D. Hicks, under the firm name of J. D. +Hicks & Company, and sold tin and hardware for twelve or fifteen +years. In 1868, bereaved of his second wife, Barrows married Miss +Bessie Ann Greene, a native of New York. That year, too, he was joined +by his brother, James Arnold Barrows,[12] who came by way of Panamá +and bought thirty-five acres of land afterward obtained by the +University of Southern California. About 1874, Barrows was +manufacturing pipe. For years he dwelt with his daughter, Mrs. R. G. +Weyse, contributing now and then to the activities of the Historical +Society, and taking a keen interest[13] in Los Angeles affairs. + +About 1854 or 1855, I. M., Samuel and Herman (who must not be confused +with H. W.) Hellman, arrived here, I. M. preceding his brothers by a +short period. In time, I. M. Hellman, in San Francisco, married Miss +Caroline Adler; and in 1862 her sister, Miss Adelaide, came south on a +visit and married Samuel Hellman. One of the children of this union +is Maurice S. Hellman, who, for many years associated with Joseph F. +Sartori, has occupied an important position in banking and financial +circles. + +In 1854 or 1855, Bishop & Beale, a firm consisting of Samuel A. Bishop +and E. F. Beale, became owners of an immense tract of Kern County land +consisting of between two and three-hundred thousand acres. This vast +territory was given to them in payment for the work which they had +done in surveying the Butterfield Route, later incorporated in the +stage road connecting San Francisco with St. Louis. Recently I read an +account of Beale's having been an Indian Agent at the Reservation; but +if he was, I have forgotten it. I remember Colonel James F. Vineyard, +an Indian Agent and later Senator from Los Angeles; one of whose +daughters was married, in 1862, to Congressman Charles De Long, of +Nevada City, afterward United States Minister to Japan, and another +daughter to Dr. Hayes, of Los Angeles. + +Bishop, after a while, sold out his interest in the land and moved to +San José, where he engaged in street-car operations. He was married +near San Gabriel to Miss Frances Young, and I officiated as one of the +groomsmen at the wedding. After Bishop disposed of his share, Colonel +R. S. Baker became interested, but whether or not he bought Bishop's +interest at once, is not clear in my memory. It is worth noting that +Bakersfield, which was part of this great ranch, took its name from +Colonel Baker. Some time later, Baker sold out to Beale and then came +South and purchased the San Vicente Ranch. This _rancho_ comprised the +whole Santa Monica district and consisted of thirty thousand acres, +which Baker stocked with sheep. On a part of this land, the Soldiers' +Home now stands. + +Hilliard P. Dorsey, another typical Western character, was Register of +the Land Office and a leading Mason of early days. He lived in Los +Angeles in 1853, and I met him on the _Goliah_ in October of that +year, on the way south, after a brief visit to San Francisco, and +while I was bound for my new home. We saw each other frequently after +my arrival here; and I was soon on good terms with him. When I +embarked in business on my own account, therefore, I solicited +Dorsey's patronage. + +One day, Dorsey bought a suit of clothes from me on credit. A couple +of months passed by, however, without any indication on his part that +he intended to pay; and as the sum involved meant much to me at that +time, I was on the lookout for my somewhat careless debtor. In due +season, catching sight of him on the other side of the street, I +approached, in genuine American fashion, and unceremoniously asked him +to liquidate his account. I had not then heard of the notches in +Friend Dorsey's pistol, and was so unconscious of danger that my +temerity seemed to impress him. I believe, in fact, that he must have +found the experience novel. However that may be, the next day he +called and paid his bill. + +In relating this circumstance to friends, I was enlightened as to +Dorsey's peculiar propensities and convinced that youth and ignorance +alone had saved me from disaster. In other words, he let me go, as it +were, on probation. Dorsey himself was killed sometime later by his +father-in-law, William Rubottom, who had come to El Monte with Ezekiel +Rubottom, in 1852 or 1853. After quarreling with Rubottom, Dorsey, who +was not a bad fellow, but of a fiery temper, had entered the yard with +a knife in his hand; and Rubottom had threatened to shoot him if he +came any nearer. The son-in-law continued to advance; and Rubottom +shot him dead. M. J. Newmark, Rubottom's attorney, who had been +summoned to El Monte for consultation as to Dorsey's treatment of +Rubottom's daughter, was present at the fatal moment and witnessed the +shooting affray. + +Uncle Billy Rubottom, as he was familiarly called, came to Los Angeles +County after losing heavily through the bursting of Yuba Dam and was +one of the founders of Spadra. He named the settlement, laid out on a +part of the San José _rancho_, after his home town, Spadra Bluffs in +Arkansas, and opened a hotel which he made locally famous, during a +decade and a half, for barbecues and similar events, giving personal +attention (usually while in shirt-sleeves) to his many guests. In his +declining years, Uncle Billy lived with Kewen H. Dorsey, his grandson, +who was also prominent in masonic circles. + +FOOTNOTES: + +[12] Died, June 9th, 1914. + +[13] Died, August 7th, 1914. + + + + +CHAPTER XI + +THE RUSH FOR GOLD + +1855 + + +As I have already related, I made fifteen hundred dollars in a few +months, and in January, 1855, my brother advised me to form a +partnership with men of maturer years. In this I acquiesced. He +thereupon helped to organize the firm of Rich, Newmark & Company, +consisting of Elias Laventhal (who reached here in 1854 and died on +January 20th, 1902), Jacob Rich and myself. Rich was to be the San +Francisco resident partner, while Laventhal and I undertook the +management of the business in Los Angeles. We prospered from the +beginning, deriving much benefit from our San Francisco representation +which resulted in our building up something of a wholesale business. + +In the early fifties, Los Angeles was the meeting-place of a Board of +Land Commissioners appointed by the National Government to settle +land-claims and to prepare the way for that granting of patents to +owners of Southern California ranches which later awakened from time +to time such interest here. This interest was largely due to the fact +that the Mexican authorities, in numerous instances, had made the same +grant to different persons, often confusing matters badly. Cameron E. +Thom, then Deputy Land Agent, took testimony for the Commissioners. In +1855, this Board completed its labors. The members were Hiland Hall +(later Governor of Vermont,) Harry I. Thornton and Thompson Campbell; +and during the season they were here, these Land Commissioners formed +no unimportant part of the Los Angeles legal world. + +Thomas A. Delano, whose name is perpetuated in our local geography, +was a sailor who came to Los Angeles on January 4th, 1855, after +which, for fifteen or sixteen years, he engaged in freighting. He +married Señorita Soledad, daughter of John C. Vejar, the well-known +Spanish Californian. + +Slowness and uncertainty of mail delivery in our first decades +affected often vital interests, as is shown in the case of the +half-breed Alvitre who, as I have said, was sentenced to be executed. +One reason why the Vigilantes, headed by Mayor Foster, despatched +Brown was the expectation that both he and Alvitre would get a stay +from higher authority; and sure enough, a stay was granted Alvitre, +but the document was delayed in transit until the murderer, on January +12th, 1855, had forfeited his life! Curiously enough, another +Alvitre--an aged Californian named José Claudio--also of El Monte, but +six years later atrociously murdered his aged wife; and on April 28th, +1861, he was hanged. The lynchers placed him on a horse under a tree, +and then drove the animal away, leaving him suspended from a limb. + +Washington's Birthday, in 1855, was made merrier by festivities +conducted under the auspices of the City Guards, of which W. W. +Twist--a grocer and commission merchant at Beaudry's Block, Aliso +Street, and afterward in partnership with Casildo Aguilar--was +Captain. The same organization gave its first anniversary ball in May. +Twist was a Ranger, or member of the volunteer mounted police; and it +was he who, in March, 1857, formed the first rifle company. In the +early sixties, he was identified with the sheriff's office, after +which, venturing into Mexico, he was killed. + +Henry C. G. Schaeffer came to Los Angeles on March 16th, 1855, and +opened the first gunsmith shop in a little adobe on the east side of +Los Angeles Street near Commercial, which he soon surrounded with an +attractive flower garden. A year after Schaeffer came, he was followed +by another gunsmith, August Stoermer. Schaeffer continued, however, to +sell and mend guns and to cultivate flowers; and twenty years later +found him on Wilmington Street, near New Commercial, still encircled +by one of the choicest collections of flowers in the city, and the +first to have brought here the night-blooming cereus. With more than +regret, therefore, I must record that, in the middle seventies, this +warm-hearted friend of children, so deserving of the good will of +everyone, committed suicide. + +Gold was discovered at Havilah, Kern County, in 1854; and by the early +spring of 1855 exaggerated accounts of the find had spread broadcast +over the entire State. Yarn after yarn passed from mouth to mouth, one +of the most extravagant of the reports being that a Mexican doctor and +alchemist suddenly rode into Mariposa from the hills, where he had +found a gulch paved with gold, his horse and himself being fairly +covered with bags of nuggets. The rush by gold-seekers on their way +from the North to Los Angeles (the Southern gateway to the fields) +began in January, 1855, and continued a couple of years, every steamer +being loaded far beyond the safety limit; and soon miles of the rough +highways leading to the mines were covered with every conceivable form +of vehicle and struggling animals, as well as with thousands of +footsore prospectors, unable to command transportation at any price. +For awhile, ten, twelve and even fifteen per cent. interest a month +was offered for small amounts of money by those of the prospectors who +needed assistance, a rate based on the calculation that a wide-awake +digger would be sure of eight to ten dollars a day, and that with such +returns one should certainly be satisfied. This time the excitement +was a little too much for the Los Angeles editors to ignore; and in +March the publisher of the _Southern Californian_, himself losing his +balance, issued an "extra" with these startling announcements: + + STOP THE PRESS! GLORIOUS NEWS FROM KERN RIVER! BRING OUT + THE BIG GUN! + + There are a thousand gulches rich with gold, and room for + ten thousand miners! Miners average $50.00 a day. One man + with his own hands took out $160.00 in a day. Five men in + ten days took out $4,500.00. + +The affair proved, however, a ridiculous failure; and William Marsh, +an old Los Angeles settler and a very decent chap, who conducted a +store at Havilah, was among those who suffered heavy loss. Although +some low-grade ore was found, it was generally not in paying +quantities. The dispersion of this adventurous mass of humanity +brought to Los Angeles many undesirable people, among them gamblers +and desperadoes, who flocked in the wake of the gold-diggers, making +another increase in the rough element. Before long, four men were +fatally shot and half a dozen wounded near the Plaza, one Sunday +night. + +When the excitement about the gold-finds along the Kern River was at +its height, Frank Lecouvreur arrived here, March 6th, on the steamship +_America_, lured by reports then current in San Francisco. To save the +fare of five dollars, he trudged for ten hours all the way from San +Pedro, carrying on his shoulders forty pounds of baggage; but on +putting up at the United States Hotel, then recently started, he was +dissuaded by some experienced miners from venturing farther up the +country. Soon after, he met a fellow-countryman from Königsberg, named +Arnold, who induced him, on account of his needy condition, to take +work in his saloon; but disliking his duties and the rather frequent +demands upon his nervous system through being shot at, several times, +by patrons not exactly satisfied with Lecouvreur's locomotion and his +method of serving, the young German quit the job and went to work as a +carriage-painter for John Goller. In October, Captain Henry Hancock, +then County Surveyor, engaged Lecouvreur as flagman, at a salary of +sixty dollars; which was increased twenty-five per cent. on the trip +of the surveyors to the Mojave. + +March 29th, 1855, witnessed the organization of the first Odd Fellows' +lodge--No. 35--instituted here. General Ezra Drown was the leading +spirit; and others associated with him were E. Wilson High, Alexander +Crabb, L. C. Goodwin, William C. Ardinger, Morris L. Goodman and M. M. +Davis. + +During the fifties, the Bella Union passed under several successive +managements. On July 22d, 1854, Dr. Macy sold it to W. G. Ross and a +partner named Crockett. They were succeeded, on April 7th, 1855, by +Robert S. Hereford. Ross was killed, some years afterward, by C. P. +Duane in San Francisco. + +In pursuit of business, in 1855, I made a number of trips to San +Bernardino, some of which had their amusing incidents, and most of +which afforded pleasure or an agreeable change. Meeting Sam Meyer on +one of these occasions, just as I was mounted and ready to start, I +invited him to accompany me; and as Sam assured me that he knew where +to secure a horse, we started down the street together and soon passed +a shop in which there was a Mexican customer holding on to a _reata_ +leading out through the door to his saddled nag. Sam walked in; and +having a casual acquaintance with the man, asked him if he would lend +him the animal for a while? People were generous in those days; and +the good-hearted Mexican, thinking perhaps that Sam was "just going +around the corner," carelessly answered, "_Sí, Señor_," and proceeded +with his bartering. Sam, on the other hand, came out of the shop and +led the horse away! After some days of minor adventures, when we lost +our path near the Old Mission and had to put back to El Monte for the +night, we arrived at San Bernardino; and on our return, after watering +the horses, Sam found in his unhaltered steed such a veritable Tartar +that, in sheer desperation, he was about to shoot the borrowed beast! + +On another one of these trips I was entertained by Simon Jackson, a +merchant of that town, who took me to a restaurant kept by a Captain +Weiner. This, the best eating-place in town, was about ten feet square +and had a mud floor. It was a miserably hot day--so hot, in fact, that +I distinctly remember the place being filled with flies, and that the +butter had run to oil. Nature had not intended Weiner to cater to +sensitive stomachs, at least not on the day of which I speak, and to +make matters worse, Weiner was then his own waiter. He was wallowing +around in his bare feet, and was otherwise unkempt and unclean; and +the whole scene is therefore indelibly impressed on my memory. When +the slovenly Captain bawled out: "Which will you have--chops or +steak?" Jackson straightened up, threw out his chest, and in evidence +of the vigor of his appetite, just as vociferously answered: "I want a +steak _as big as a mule's foot_!" + +Living in San Bernardino was a customer of ours, a celebrity by the +name of Lewis Jacobs. He had joined the Mormon Church and was a +merchant of worth and consequence. Jacobs was an authority on all +matters of finance connected with his town, and anyone wishing to know +the condition of business men in that neighborhood had only to apply +to him. Once when I was in San Bernardino, I asked him for information +regarding a prospective patron who was rather a gay sort of +individual; and this was Jacobs's characteristic reply: "A very fine +fellow: he plays a little poker, and drinks a little whiskey!" Jacobs +became a banker and in 1900 died on shipboard while returning from +Europe, leaving a comfortable fortune and the more valuable asset of a +good name. + +In referring to Alexander & Mellus and their retirement from business, +I have said that merchandise required by Southern Californians in the +early days, and before the absorption of the Los Angeles market by San +Francisco, was largely transported by sailing vessels from the East. +When a ship arrived, it was an event worthy of special notice, and +this was particularly the case when such sailing craft came less and +less often into port. Sometimes the arrival of the vessel was heralded +in advance; and when it was unloaded, the shrewd merchants used +decidedly modern methods for the marketing of their wares. In 1855, +for example, Johnson & Allanson advertised as follows: + + NEW GOODS! NEW GOODS! + + Direct from the Atlantic States, 112 Days' Passage. + + Samples of the Cargo at our Store in the Stearns Building; + and the entire Cargo will be disposed of cheap, for cash. + + Goods delivered at San Pedro or Los Angeles. + +From the above announcement, it must not be inferred that these Los +Angeles tradesmen brought to this port the whole shipload of +merchandise. Such ships left but a small part of their cargo here, the +major portion being generally consigned to the North. + +The dependence on San Francisco continued until the completion of our +first transcontinental railway. In the meantime, Los Angeles had to +rely on the Northern city for nearly everything, live stock being +about the only exception; and this relation was shown in 1855 by the +publication of no less than four columns of San Francisco +advertisements in the regular issue of a Los Angeles newspaper. Much +of this commerce with the Southland for years was conducted by means +of schooners which ran irregularly and only when there was cargo. They +plied between San Francisco and San Pedro, and by agreement put in at +Santa Bárbara and other Coast places such as Port San Luis, when the +shipments warranted such stops. N. Pierce & Company were the owners. +One of these vessels in 1855 was the clipper schooner _Laura Bevan_, +captained by F. Morton and later wrecked at sea when Frank Lecouvreur +just escaped taking passage on her; and another was the _Sea Serpent_, +whose Captain bore the name of Fish. + +I have said that in 1849 the old side-wheeler _Gold Hunter_ had +commenced paddling the waters around here; but so far as I can +remember, she was not operating in 1853. The _Goliah_, on the other +hand, was making two round trips a month, carrying passengers, mail +and freight from San Francisco to San Diego, and stopping at various +Coast points including San Pedro. In a vague way, I also remember the +mail steamer _Ohio_ under one of the Haleys, the _Sea Bird_, at one +time commanded by Salisbury Haley, and the _Southerner_; and if I am +uncertain about others, the difficulty may be due to the fact that, +because of unseaworthiness and miserable service, owners changed the +names of ships from time to time in order to allay the popular +prejudice and distrust, so that during some years, several names were +successively applied to the same vessel. It must have been about 1855 +or 1856 that the _Senator_ (brought to the Coast by Captain Coffin, +January 28th, 1853) was put on the Southern run, and with her advent +began a considerably improved service. As the schooners were even more +irregular than the steamers, I generally divided my shipments, giving +to the latter what I needed immediately, and consigning by the +schooners, whose freight rates were much lower, what could stand +delay. One more word about the _Goliah_: one day in the eighties I +heard that she was still doing valiant service, having been sold to a +Puget Sound company. + +Recalling these old-time side-wheelers whose paddles churned the water +into a frothing foam out of all proportion to the speed with which +they drove the boat along her course, I recall, with a feeling almost +akin to sentiment, the roar of the signal-gun fired just before +landing, making the welcome announcement, as well to the traveler as +to his friends awaiting him on shore, that the voyage had been safely +consummated. + +Shortly after my arrival in Los Angeles, the transportation service +was enlarged by the addition of a stage line from San Francisco which +ran along the Coast from the Northern city to the Old Town of San +Diego, making stops all along the road, including San José, San Luis +Obispo, Santa Bárbara and San Buenaventura, and particularly at Los +Angeles, where not only horses, but stages and supplies were kept. The +stage to San Diego followed, for the most part, the route selected +later by the Santa Fé Railroad. + +These old-time stages remind me again of the few varieties of vehicles +then in use. John Goller had met with much skepticism and ridicule, as +I have said, when he was planning an improvement on the old and clumsy +_carreta_; and when his new ideas did begin to prevail, he suffered +from competition. E. L. Scott & Company came as blacksmiths and +carriage-makers in 1855; and George Boorham was another who arrived +about the same time. Ben McLoughlin was also an early wheelwright. +Among Goller's assistants who afterward opened shops for themselves, +were the three Louis's--Roeder, Lichtenberger and Breer; Roeder and +Lichtenberger[14] having a place on the west side of Spring Street +just south of First. + +Thomas W. Seeley, Captain of the _Senator_, was very fond of Los +Angeles diversions, as will appear from the following anecdote of the +late fifties. After bringing his ship to anchor off the coast, he +would hasten to Los Angeles, leaving his vessel in command of First +Mate Butters to complete the voyage to San Diego and return, which +consumed forty-eight hours; and during this interval, the old Captain +regularly made his headquarters at the Bella Union. There he would +spend practically all of his time playing poker, then considered the +gentleman's game of chance, and which, since the mania for Chemical +Purity had not yet possessed Los Angeles, was looked upon without +criticism. When the steamer returned from San Diego, Captain Seeley, +if neither his own interest in the game nor his fellow-players' +interest in his pocketbook had ebbed, would postpone the departure of +his ship, frequently for even as much as twenty-four hours, thus +adding to the irregularity of sailings which I have already mentioned. +Many, in fact, were the inconveniences to which early travelers were +subjected from this infrequency of trips and failure to sail at the +stated hour; and to aggravate the trouble, the vessels were all too +small, especially when a sudden excitement--due, perhaps, to some new +report of the discovery of gold--increased the number of intending +travelers. It even happened, sometimes, that persons were compelled to +postpone their trip until the departure of another boat. Speaking of +anchoring vessels off the coast, I may add that high seas frequently +made it impossible to reach the steamers announced to leave at a +certain time; in which case the officers used to advertise in the +newspapers that the time of departure had been changed. + + [Illustration: Louis Sainsevain] + + [Illustration: Manuel Dominguez] + + [Illustration: El Aliso, the Sainsevain Winery] + + [Illustration: Jacob Elias] + + [Illustration: John T. Lanfranco] + + [Illustration: J. Frank Burns] + + [Illustration: Henry D. Barrows + From an old lithograph] + +When Captain Seeley was killed in the _Ada Hancock_ disaster, in 1863, +First Mate Butters was made Captain and continued for some time in +command. Just what his real fitness was, I cannot say; but it seemed +to me that he did not know the Coast any too well. This impression +also existed in the minds of others; and once, when we were +supposed to be making our way to San Francisco, the heavy fog lifted +and revealed the shore thirty miles north of our destination; +whereupon a fellow-passenger exclaimed: "Why, Captain, this isn't at +all the part of the Coast where we should be!" The remark stung the +sensitive Butters, who probably was conscious enough of his +shortcomings; and straightway he threatened to put the offending +passenger in irons! + +George F. Lamson was an auctioneer who arrived in Los Angeles in 1855. +Aside from the sale of live stock, there was not much business in his +line; although, as I have said, Dr. Osburn, the Postmaster, also had +an auction room. Sales of household effects were held on a Tuesday or +a Wednesday; while horses were offered for sale on Saturdays. Lamson +had the typical auctioneer's personality; and many good stories were +long related, illustrating his humor, wit and amusing impudence by +which he often disposed, even to his friends, of almost worthless +objects at high prices. A daughter Gertrude, widely known as Lillian +Nance O'Neill, never married; another daughter, Lillian, is the wife +of William Desmond, the actor. + +In 1854, Congress made an appropriation of fifty thousand dollars +which went far toward opening up the trade that later flourished +between Los Angeles and Salt Lake City. This money was for the survey +and location of a wagon-road between San Bernardino and the Utah +capital; and on the first of May, 1855, Gilbert & Company established +their Great Salt Lake Express over that Government route. It was at +first a pony express, making monthly trips, carrying letters and +stopping at such stations as Coal Creek, Fillmore City, Summit Creek +and American Fork, and finally reaching Great Salt Lake; and early +having good Los Angeles connections, it prospered sufficiently to +substitute a wagon-service for the pony express. Although this was at +first intended only as a means of connecting the Mormon capital with +the more recently-founded Mormon settlement at San Bernardino, the +extension of the service to Los Angeles eventually made this city the +terminus. + +Considerable excitement was caused by the landing at San Pedro, in +1855, of a shipload of Mormons from Honolulu. Though I do not recall +that any more recruits came subsequently from that quarter, the +arrival of these adherents of Brigham Young added color to his +explanation that he had established a Mormon colony in California, as +a base of operations and supplies for converts from the Sandwich +Islands. + +Thomas Foster, a Kentuckian, was the sixth Mayor of Los Angeles, +taking office in May, 1855. He lived opposite Masonic Hall on Main +Street, with his family, among whom were some charming daughters, and +was in partnership with Dr. R. T. Hayes, in Apothecaries' Hall near +the Post Office. He was one of the first Masons here and was highly +esteemed; and he early declared himself in favor of better school and +water facilities. + +About the second week of June, 1855, appeared the first Spanish +newspaper in Los Angeles under the American _régime_. It was called +_El Clamor Público_, and made its appeal, socially, to the better +class of native Californians. Politically, it was edited for +Republicans, especially for the supporters, in 1856, of Frémont for +President. Its editor was Francisco P. Ramirez; but though he was an +able journalist and a good typo--becoming, between 1860 and 1862, +State Printer in Sonora and, in 1865, Spanish Translator for the State +of California--the _Clamor_, on December 31st, 1859, went the way of +so many other local journals. + +FOOTNOTE: + +[14] Lichtenberger died some years ago; Roeder died February 20th, +1915. + + + + +CHAPTER XII + +THE GREAT HORSE RACE + +1855 + + +From all accounts, Fourth of July was celebrated in Los Angeles with +more or less enthusiasm from the time of the City's reorganization, +although afterward, as we shall see, the day was often neglected; but +certainly in 1855 the festivities were worthy of remembrance. There +was less formality, perhaps, and more cannonading than in later years; +music was furnished by a brass band from Fort Tejón; and Phineas +Banning was the stentorian "orator of the day." Two years previously, +Banning had provided a three days' celebration and barbecue for the +Fourth, attended by my brother; and I once enjoyed a barbecue at San +Juan Capistrano where the merriment, continuing for half a week, +marked both the hospitality and the leisurely habits of the people. In +those days (when men were not afraid of noise) boys, in celebrating +American Independence, made all the hullabaloo possible, untrammeled +by the nonsense of "a sane Fourth." + +On the Fourth of July and other holidays, as well as on Sundays, men +from the country came to town, arrayed in their fanciest clothes; and, +mounted upon their most spirited and gaily-caparisoned _caballos de +silla_, or saddle-horses, they paraded the streets, as many as ten +abreast, jingling the metallic parts of their paraphernalia, admired +and applauded by the populace, and keenly alive to the splendid +appearance they and their outfits made, and to the effect sure to be +produced on the fair _señoritas_. The most popular thoroughfare for +this purpose was Main Street. On such occasions, the men wore short, +very tight-fitting jackets of bright-colored material--blue, green and +yellow being the favorite colors--and trimmed with gold and silver +lace or fringe. These jackets were so tight that often the wearers put +them on only with great difficulty. The _calzoneras_, or pantaloons, +were of the same material as the jackets, open on the side and flanked +with brass buttons. The openings exposed the _calzoncillos_, or +drawers. A fashionable adjunct was the Mexican garter, often costing +ten to fifteen dollars, and another was the high-heeled boot, so small +that ten minutes or more were required to draw it on. This boot was a +great conceit; but though experiencing much discomfort, the victim +could not be induced to increase the size. + +The _serape_, worn by men, was the native substitute for the overcoat. +It was a narrow, Mexican blanket of finest wool, multicolored and +provided with a hole near the center large enough to let the wearer's +head through; and when not in actual use, it was thrown over the +saddle. The head-gear consisted in winter of a broad-rimmed, +high-crowned, woolen _sombrero_, usually brown, which was kept in +place during fast travel or a race by a ribbon or band fastened under +the chin; often, as in the familiar case of Ygnácio Lugo, the hat was +ornamented with beads. In summer, the rider substituted a shirt for +the _serape_ and a Panamá for the _sombrero_. The _caballero's_ +outfit, in the case of some wealthy dons, exceeded a thousand dollars +in value; and it was not uncommon for fancy costumes to be handed down +as heirlooms. + +The women, on the other hand, wore skirts of silk, wool or cotton, +according to their wealth or the season. Many of the female conceits +had not appeared in 1853; the grandmothers of the future suffragettes +wore, instead of bonnets and hats, a _rebozo_, or sort of scarf or +muffler, which covered their heads and shoulders and looked +delightfully picturesque. To don this gracefully was, in fact, quite +an art. Many of the native California ladies also braided their hair, +and wore circular combs around the back of their heads; at least this +was so until, with the advent of a greater number of American women, +their more modern, though less romantic, styles commenced to prevail, +when even the picturesque _mantilla_ was discarded. + +Noting these differences of dress in early days, I should not forget +to state that there were both American and Mexican tailors here; among +the former being one McCoy and his son, merry companions whose +copartnership carousals were proverbial. The Mexican tailor had the +advantage of knowing just what the native requirements were, although +in the course of time his _Gringo_ rival came to understand the tastes +and prejudices of the _paisano_, and to obtain the better share of the +patronage. The cloth from which the _caballero's_ outfit was made +could be found in most of the stores. + +As with clothes and tailors, so it was with other articles of apparel +and those who manufactured them; the natives had their own shoe- and +hat-makers, and their styles were unvarying. The genuine Panamá hat +was highly prized and often copied; and Francisco Velardes--who used a +grindstone bought of John Temple in 1852, now in the County +Museum--was one who sold and imitated Panamás of the fifties. A +product of the bootmakers' skill were leathern leggings, worn to +protect the trousers when riding on horseback. The _Gringos_ were then +given to copying the fashions of the natives; but as the pioneer +population increased, the Mexican came more and more to adopt American +styles. + +Growing out of these exhibitions of horsemanship and of the natives' +fondness for display, was the rather important industry of making +Mexican saddles, in which quite a number of skilled _paisanos_ were +employed. Among the most expert was Francisco Moreno, who had a little +shop on the south side of Aliso Street, not far from Los Angeles. One +of these hand-worked saddles often cost two hundred dollars or more, +in addition to which expensive bridles, bits and spurs were deemed +necessary accessories. António María Lugo had a silver-mounted saddle, +bridle and spurs that cost fifteen hundred dollars. + +On holidays and even Sundays, Upper Main Street--formerly called the +Calle de las Virgenes, or Street of the Maids, later San Fernando +Street--was the scene of horse races and their attendant festivities, +just as it used to be when money or gold was especially plentiful, if +one may judge from the stories of those who were here in the +prosperous year, 1850. People from all over the county visited Los +Angeles to take part in the sport, some coming from mere curiosity, +but the majority anxious to bet. Some money, and often a good deal of +stock changed hands, according to the success or failure of the +different favorites. It cannot be claimed, perhaps, that the Mexican, +like the _Gringo_, made a specialty of developing horseflesh to +perfection; yet Mexicans owned many of the fast horses, such as Don +José Sepúlveda's _Sydney Ware_ and _Black Swan_, and the Californian +_Sarco_ belonging to Don Pio Pico. + +The most celebrated of all these horse races of early days was that +between José Andrés Sepúlveda's _Black Swan_ and Pio Pico's _Sarco_, +the details of which I learned, soon after I came here, from Tom Mott. +Sepúlveda had imported the _Black Swan_ from Australia, in 1852, the +year of the race, while Pico chose a California steed to defend the +honors of the day. Sepúlveda himself went to San Francisco to receive +the consignment in person, after which he committed the thoroughbred +into the keeping of Bill Brady, the trainer, who rode him down to Los +Angeles, and gave him as much care as might have been bestowed upon a +favorite child. They were to race nine miles, the _carrera_ commencing +on San Pedro Street near the city limits, and running south a league +and a half and return; and the reports of the preparation having +spread throughout California, the event came to be looked upon as of +such great importance, that, from San Francisco to San Diego, whoever +had the money hurried to Los Angeles to witness the contest and bet on +the result. Twenty-five thousand dollars, in addition to five hundred +horses, five hundred mares, five hundred heifers, five hundred calves +and five hundred sheep were among the princely stakes put up; and the +wife of José Andrés was driven to the scene of the memorable contest +with a veritable fortune in gold slugs wrapped in a large +handkerchief. Upon arriving there, she opened her improvised purse and +distributed the shining fifty-dollar pieces to all of her attendants +and servants, of whom there were not a few, with the injunction that +they should wager the money on the race; and her example was followed +by others, so that, in addition to the cattle, land and merchandise +hazarded, a considerable sum of money was bet by the contending +parties and their friends. The _Black Swan_ won easily. The peculiar +character of some of the wagers recalls to me an instance of a later +date when a native customer of Louis Phillips tried to borrow a wagon, +in order to bet the same on a horse race. If the customer won, he was +to return the wagon at once; but if he lost, he was to pay Phillips a +certain price for the vehicle. + +Many kinds of amusements marked these festal occasions, and +bull-fights were among the diversions patronized by some Angeleños, +the Christmas and New Year holidays of 1854-55 being celebrated in +that manner. I dare say that in earlier days Los Angeles may have had +its Plaza de Toros, as did the ancient metropolis of the great country +to the South; but in the later stages of the sport here, the +_toreador_ and his colleagues conducted their contests in a +gaudily-painted corral, in close proximity to the Plaza. They were +usually proclaimed as professionals from Mexico or Spain, but were +often engaged for a livelihood, under another name, in a less +dangerous and romantic occupation near by. Admission was charged, and +some pretense to a grandstand was made; but through the apertures in +the fence of the corral those who did not pay might, by dint of hard +squinting, still get a peep at the show. In this corral, in the +fifties, I saw a fight between a bear and a bull. I can still +recollect the crowd, but I cannot say which of the infuriated animals +survived. Toward the end of 1858, a bull-fight took place in the Calle +de Toros, and there was great excitement when a horse was instantly +killed. + +Cock-fights were also a very common form of popular entertainment, and +sports were frequently seen going around the streets with fighting +cocks under each arm. The fights generally took place in Sonora Town, +though now and then they were held in San Gabriel. Mexicans carried on +quite a trade in game roosters among the patrons of this pastime, of +whom M. G. Santa Cruz was one of the best known. Sometimes, too, +roosters contributed to still another brutal diversion known as +_correr el gallo_: their necks having been well greased, they would be +partially buried in the earth alongside a public highway, when riders +on fleet horses dashed by at full speed, and tried to seize the fowls +and pull them out! This reminds me of another game in which horsemen, +speeding madly by a succession of suspended, small rings, would try, +by the skillful handling of a long spear, to collect as many of the +rings as they could--a sport illustrated in one of the features of the +modern merry-go-round. + +The easy-going temperament of the native gave rise to many an amusing +incident. I once asked a woman, as we were discussing the coming +marriage of her daughter, whom the dark-eyed _señorita_ was to marry; +whereupon she replied, "I forget;" and turning to her daughter, she +asked: "_¿Como se llama?_" (What did you say was his name?) + +George Dalton bought a tract of land on Washington, east of San Pedro +Street, in 1855, and set out a vineyard and orchard which he continued +to cultivate until 1887, when he moved to Walnut Avenue. Dalton was a +Londoner who sailed from Liverpool on the day of Queen Victoria's +coronation, to spend some years wandering through Pennsylvania and +Ohio. About 1851, he followed to the Azusa district his brother, Henry +Dalton, who had previously been a merchant in Peru; but, preferring +the embryo city to the country, he returned to Los Angeles to live. +Two sons, E. H. Dalton, City Water Overseer, in 1886-87, and Winnall +Travelly Dalton, the vineyardist, were offspring of Dalton's first +marriage. Elizabeth M., a daughter, married William H. Perry. Dalton +Avenue is named after the Dalton family. + +In another place I have spoken of the dearth of trees in the town when +I came, though the editor of the _Star_ and others had advocated +tree-planting. This was not due to mere neglect; there was prejudice +against such street improvement. The School Trustees had bought a +dozen or more black locust-trees, "at eight bits each," and planted +them on the school lot at Second and Spring streets. Drought and +squirrels in 1855 attacked the trees, and while the pedagogue went +after the "varmints" with a shot-gun, he watered the trees from the +school barrel. The carrier, however, complained that drinking-water +was being wasted; and only after several rhetorical bouts was the +schoolmaster allowed to save what was already invested. The +locust-trees flourished until 1884, when they were hewn down to make +way for the City Hall. + +Two partially-successful attempts were made, in 1855, to introduce the +chestnut-tree here. Jean Louis Sainsevain, coming to Los Angeles in +that year, brought with him some seed; and this doubtless led Solomon +Lazard to send back to Bordeaux for some of the Italian variety. +William Wolfskill, who first brought here the persimmon-tree, took a +few of the seeds imported by Lazard and planted them near his +homestead; and a dozen of the trees later adorned the beautiful garden +of O. W. Childs who, in the following year, started some black walnut +seed obtained in New York. H. P. Dorsey was also a pioneer walnut +grower. + +My brother's plans at this time included a European visit, commencing +in 1855 and lasting until 1856, during which trip, in Germany, on +November 11th, 1855, he was married. After his Continental tour, he +returned to San Francisco and was back in Los Angeles some time before +1857. On this European voyage, my brother was entrusted with the care +and delivery of American Government documents. From London he carried +certain papers to the American Minister in Denmark; and in furtherance +of his mission, he was given the following introduction and passport +from James Buchanan, then Minister Plenipotentiary to the Court of St. +James and later President of the United States: + + No. 282 BEARER OF DESPATCHES + + LEGATION OF THE UNITED STATES OF AMERICA AT LONDON. + + To all to whom these presents shall come, Greeting; + + Know Ye, that the bearer hereof, Joseph P. Newmark, Esq., + is proceeding to Hamburgh and Denmark, bearing Despatches + from this Legation, to the United States' Legation at + Copenhagen. + + These are therefore to request all whom it may concern, to + permit him to pass freely without let or molestation, and + to extend to him such friendly aid and protection, as would + be extended to Citizens and Subjects of Foreign Countries, + resorting to the United States, bearing Despatches. + + In testimony whereof, I, James Buchanan, Envoy + Extraordinary and Minister Plenipotentiary, of the United + States of America, at London, have hereunto set my hand, + and caused the Seal of this Legation to be affixed this + Tenth day of July A.D. 1855 and of the Independence of the + United States the Eightieth. + + (Signed,) + + JAMES BUCHANAN. + + (Seal of the Legation of the U. S. + of America to Great Britain.) + + +I have always accepted the fact of my brother's selection to convey +these documents as evidence that, in the few years since his arrival +in America, he had attained a position of some responsibility. Aside +from this, I am inclined to relate the experience because it shows the +then limited resources of our Federal authorities abroad, especially +as compared with their comprehensive facilities to-day, including +their own despatch agents, messengers and Treasury representatives +scattered throughout Europe. + +A trip of Prudent Beaudry abroad about this time reminds me that +specialization in medical science was as unknown in early Los Angeles +as was specialization in business, and that persons suffering from +grave physical disorders frequently visited even remoter points than +San Francisco in search of relief. In 1855, Beaudry's health having +become seriously impaired, he went to Paris to consult the famous +oculist, Sichel; but he received little or no benefit. While in +Europe, Beaudry visited the Exposition of that year, and was one of +the first Angeleños, I suppose, to see a World's Fair. + +These early tours to Europe by Temple, Beaudry and my brother, and +some of my own experiences, recall the changes in the manner of +bidding Los Angeles travelers _bon-voyage_. Friends generally +accompanied the tourist to the outlying steamer, reached by a tug or +lighter; and when the leave-taking came, there were cheers, +repetitions of _adiós_ and the waving of hats and handkerchiefs, which +continued until the steamer had disappeared from view. + +The first earthquake felt throughout California, of which I have any +recollection, occurred on July 11th, 1855, somewhat after eight +o'clock in the evening, and was a most serious local disturbance. +Almost every structure in Los Angeles was damaged, and some of the +walls were left with large cracks. Near San Gabriel, the adobe in +which Hugo Reid's Indian wife dwelt was wrecked, notwithstanding that +it had walls four feet thick, with great beams of lumber drawn from +the mountains of San Bernardino. In certain spots, the ground rose; in +others, it fell; and with the rising and falling, down came chimneys, +shelves full of salable stock or household necessities, pictures and +even parts of roofs, while water in barrels, and also in several of +the _zanjas_, bubbled and splashed and overflowed. Again, on the 14th +of April, the 2d of May and the 20th of September of the following +year, we were alarmed by recurring and more or less continuous shocks +which, however, did little or no damage. + + + + +CHAPTER XIII + +PRINCELY _RANCHO_ DOMAINS + +1855 + + +Of the wonderful domains granted to the Spanish dons some were still +in the possession of their descendants; some had passed into the hands +of the Argonauts; but nothing in the way of subdividing had been +attempted. The private ownership of Los Angeles County in the early +fifties, therefore, was distinguished by few holders and large tracts, +one of the most notable being that of Don Abel Stearns, who came here +in 1829, and who, in his early adventures, narrowly escaped exile or +being shot by an irate Spanish governor. Eventually, Stearns became +the proud possessor of tens of thousands of acres between San Pedro +and San Bernardino, now covered with cities, towns and hamlets. The +site of the Long Beach of to-day was but a small part of his Alamitos +_rancho_, a portion of the town also including some of the Cerritos +acres of John Temple. Los Coyotes, La Habra and San Juan Cajón de +Santa Ana were among the Stearns ranches advertised for sale in 1869. +Later, I shall relate how this Alamitos land came to be held by Jotham +Bixby and his associates. + +Juan Temple owned the Los Cerritos _rancho_, consisting of some +twenty-seven thousand acres, patented on December 27th, 1867, but +which, I have heard, he bought of the Nieto heirs in the late +thirties, building there the typical ranch-house, later the home of +the Bixbys and still a feature of the neighborhood. Across the +Cerritos Stockton's weary soldiers dragged their way; and there, or +near by, Carrillo, by driving wild horses back and forth in +confusion, and so creating a great noise and dust, tricked Stockton +into thinking that there were many more of the mounted enemy than he +had at first supposed. By 1853, Temple was estimated to be worth, in +addition to his ranches, some twenty thousand dollars. In 1860, Los +Cerritos supported perhaps four thousand cattle and great flocks of +sheep; on a portion of the same ranch to-day, as I have remarked, Long +Beach stands. + +Another citizen of Los Angeles who owned much property when I came, +and who lived upon his ranch, was Francis Phinney Fisk Temple, one of +the first Los Angeles supervisors, a man exceptionally modest and +known among his Spanish-speaking friends as Templito, because of his +five feet four stature. He came here, by way of the Horn, in 1841, +when he was but nineteen years of age, and for a while was in business +with his brother John. Marrying Señorita Antónia Margarita Workman, +however, on September 30th, 1845, Francis made his home at La Merced +Ranch, twelve miles east of Los Angeles, in the San Gabriel Valley, +where he had a spacious and hospitable adobe after the old Spanish +style, shaped something like a _U_, and about seventy by one hundred +and ten feet in size. Around this house, later destroyed by fire, +Temple planted twenty acres of fruit trees and fifty thousand or more +vines, arranging the whole in a garden partly enclosed by a fence--the +exception rather than the rule for even a country nabob of that time. +Templito also owned other ranches many miles in extent; but misfortune +overtook him, and by the nineties his estate possessed scarcely a +single acre of land in either the city or the county of Los Angeles; +and he breathed his last in a rude sheep herder's camp in a corner of +one of his famous properties. + +Colonel Julian Isaac Williams, who died some three years after I +arrived, owned the celebrated Cucamonga and Chino ranches. As early as +1842, after a nine or ten years' residence in Los Angeles, Williams +moved to the Rancho del Chino, which included not merely the Santa Ana +del Chino grant--some twenty-two thousand acres originally given to +Don António María Lugo, in 1841--but the addition of twelve to +thirteen thousand acres, granted in 1843 to Williams (who became +Lugo's son-in-law) making a total of almost thirty-five thousand +acres. On that ranch Williams built a house famed far and wide for its +spaciousness and hospitality; and it was at his _hacienda_ that the +celebrated capture of B. D. Wilson and others was effected when they +ran out of ammunition. Williams was liberal in assisting the needy, +even despatching messengers to Los Angeles, on the arrival at his +ranch of worn-out and ragged immigrants, to secure clothing and other +supplies for them; and it is related that, on other occasions, he was +known to have advanced to young men capital amounting in the aggregate +to thousands of dollars, with which they established themselves in +business. By 1851, Williams had amassed personal property estimated to +be worth not less than thirty-five thousand dollars. In the end, he +gave his _ranchos_ to his daughters as marriage-portions: the Chino to +Francisca, or Mrs. Robert Carlisle, who became the wife of Dr. F. A. +McDougall, Mayor in 1877-78, and, after his death, Mrs. Jesurun; and +the Cucamonga to María Merced, or Mrs. John Rains, mother-in-law of +ex-Governor Henry T. Gage, who was later Mrs. Carrillo. + +Benjamin Davis Wilson, or Benito Wilson, as he was usually called, who +owned a good part of the most beautiful land in the San Gabriel Valley +and who laid out the trail up the Sierra Madre to Wilson's Peak, was +one of our earliest settlers, having come from Tennessee _via_ New +Mexico, in 1841. In June, 1846, Wilson joined the riflemen organized +against Castro, and in 1848, having been put in charge of some twenty +men to protect the San Bernardino frontier, he responded to a call +from Isaac Williams to hasten to the Chino _rancho_ where, with his +compatriots, he was taken prisoner. Somewhat earlier--I have +understood about 1844--Wilson and Albert Packard formed a partnership, +but this was dissolved near the end of 1851. In 1850, Wilson was +elected County Clerk; and the following year, he volunteered to patrol +the hills and assist in watching for Garra, the outlaw, the report of +whose coming was terrorizing the town. In 1853, he was Indian Agent +for Southern California. It must have been about 1849 that Wilson +secured control, for a while, of the Bella Union. His first wife +was Ramona Yorba, a daughter of Bernardo Yorba, whom he married in +February, 1844, and who died in 1849. On February 1st, 1853, Wilson +married again, this time Mrs. Margaret S. Hereford, a sister-in-law of +Thomas S. Hereford; they spent many years together at Lake Vineyard, +where he became one of the leading producers of good wine, and west of +which he planted some twenty-five or thirty thousand raisin grape +cuttings, and ten or twelve hundred orange trees, thus founding Oak +Knoll. I shall have occasion to speak of this gentleman somewhat +later. By the time that I came to know him, Wilson had accumulated +much real estate, part of his property being a residence on Alameda +Street, corner of Macy; but after a while he moved to one of his +larger estates, where stands the present Shorb station named for his +son-in-law and associate J. De Barth Shorb, who also had a place known +as Mountain Vineyard. Don Benito died in March, 1878. + + [Illustration: Maurice Kremer] + + [Illustration: Solomon Lazard] + + [Illustration: Mellus's, or Bell's Row + From a lithograph of 1858] + + [Illustration: William H. Workman and John King] + + [Illustration: Prudent Beaudry] + + [Illustration: James S. Mallard] + + [Illustration: John Behn] + +Colonel Jonathan Trumbull Warner, master of Warner's Ranch, later the +property of John G. Downey, and known--from his superb stature of over +six feet--both as Juan José Warner and as Juan Largo, "Long John," +returned to Los Angeles in 1857. Warner had arrived in Southern +California, on December 5th, 1831, at the age of twenty-eight, having +come West, from Connecticut, _via_ Missouri and Salt Lake, partly for +his health, and partly to secure mules for the Louisiana market. Like +many others whom I have known, Warner did not intend to remain; but +illness decided for him, and in 1843 he settled in San Diego County, +near the California border, on what (later known as Warner's Ranch) +was to become, with its trail from old Sonora, historic ground. There, +during the fourteen years of his occupancy, some of the most stirring +episodes of the Mexican War occurred; during one of which--Ensign +Espinosa's attack--Don Juan having objected to the forcible searching +of his house, he had his arm broken. There, also, António Garra and +his lawless band made their assault, and were repulsed by Long John, +who escaped on horseback, leaving in his wake four or five dead +Indians. For this, and not for military service, Warner was dubbed +Colonel; nor was there anyone who cared to dispute his right to the +title. In 1837, Juan married Miss Anita Gale, an adopted daughter of +Don Pio Pico, and came to Los Angeles; but the following year, Mrs. +Warner died. Warner once ran against E. J. C. Kewen for the +Legislature but, after an exceedingly bitter campaign, was beaten. In +1874 Warner was a notary public and Spanish-English interpreter. For +many years his home was in an orchard occupying the site of the +Burbank Theater on Main Street. Warner was a man of character and +lived to a venerable age; and after a decidedly arduous life he had +more than his share of responsibility and affliction, even losing his +sight in his declining years. + +William Wolfskill, who died on October 3d, 1866, was another pioneer +well-established long before I had even thought of California. Born in +Kentucky at the end of the Eighteenth Century--of a family originally +of Teutonic stock (if we may credit a high German authority) traced +back to a favorite soldier of Frederick the Great--Wolfskill in 1830 +came to Los Angeles, for a short time, with Ewing Young, the noted +beaver-trapper. Then he acquired several leagues of land in Yolo and +Solano counties, sharing what he had with his brothers, John and +Mateo. Later he sold out, returned to Los Angeles, and bought and +stocked the _rancho_ Lomas de Santiago, which he afterward disposed of +to Flint, Bixby & Company. He also bought of Corbitt, Dibblee & Barker +the Santa Anita _rancho_ (comprising between nine and ten thousand +acres), and some twelve thousand besides; the Santa Anita he gave to +his son, Louis, who later sold it for eighty-five thousand dollars. +Besides this, Wolfskill acquired title to a part of the _rancho_ San +Francisquito, on which Newhall stands, disposing of that, however, +during the first oil excitement, to the Philadelphia Oil Company, at +seventy-five cents an acre--a good price at that time. Before making +these successful realty experiments, this hero of desert hardships had +assisted to build, soon after his arrival here, one of the first +vessels ever constructed and launched in California--a schooner fitted +out at San Pedro to hunt for sea otter. In January, 1841, Wolfskill +married Doña Magdalena Lugo, daughter of Don José Ygnácio Lugo, of +Santa Bárbara. A daughter, Señorita Magdalena, in 1865 married Frank +Sabichi, a native of Los Angeles, who first saw the light of day in +1842. Sabichi, by the way, always a man of importance in this +community, is the son of Mateo and Josefa Franco Sabichi (the mother, +a sister of António Franco Coronel), buried at San Gabriel Mission. J. +E. Pleasants, to whom I elsewhere refer, first made a good start when +he formed a partnership with Wolfskill in a cattle deal. + +Concerning Mateo, I recall an interesting illustration of early fiscal +operations. He deposited thirty thousand dollars with S. Lazard & +Company and left it there so long that they began to think he would +never come back for it. He did return, however, after many years, when +he presented a certificate of deposit and withdrew the money. This +transaction bore no interest, as was often the case in former days. +People deposited money with friends in whom they had confidence, not +for the purpose of profit but simply for safety. + +Elijah T. Moulton, a Canadian, was one of the few pioneers who +preceded the Forty-niners and was permitted to see Los Angeles well on +its way toward metropolitan standing. In 1844 he had joined an +expedition to California organized by Jim Bridger; and having reached +the Western country, he volunteered to serve under Frémont in the +Mexican campaign. There the hardships which Moulton endured were far +severer than those which tested the grit of the average emigrant; and +Moulton in better days often told how, when nearly driven to +starvation, he and a comrade had actually used a remnant of the Stars +and Stripes as a seine with which to fish, and so saved their lives. +About 1850, Moulton was Deputy Sheriff under George T. Burrill; then +he went to work for Don Louis Vignes. Soon afterward, he bought some +land near William Wolfskill's, and in 1855 took charge of Wolfskill's +property. This resulted in his marriage to one of Wolfskill's +daughters, who died in 1861. In the meantime, he had acquired a +hundred and fifty acres or more in what is now East Los Angeles, and +was thus one of the first to settle in that section. He had a dairy, +for a while, and peddled milk from a can or two carried in a wagon. +Afterward, Moulton became a member of the City Council. + +William Workman and John Rowland, father of William or Billy Rowland, +resided in 1853 on La Puente _rancho_, which was granted them July +22d, 1845, some four years after they had arrived in California. They +were leaders of a party from New Mexico, of which B. D. Wilson, Lemuel +Carpenter and others were members; and the year following they +operated with Pico against Micheltorena and Sutter, Workman serving as +Captain, and Rowland as Lieutenant, of a company of volunteers they +had organized. The ranch, situated about twenty miles east of Los +Angeles, consisted of nearly forty-nine thousand acres, and had one of +the first brick residences erected in this neighborhood. Full title to +this splendid estate was confirmed by the United States Government in +April, 1867, a couple of years before Workman and Rowland, with the +assistance of Cameron E. Thom, divided their property. Rowland, who in +1851 was supposed to own some twenty-nine thousand acres and about +seventy thousand dollars' worth of personal property, further +partitioned his estate, three or four years before his death in 1873, +among his nearest of kin, giving to each heir about three thousand +acres of land and a thousand head of cattle. One of these heirs, the +wife of General Charles Forman, is the half-sister of Billy Rowland by +a second marriage. + +John Reed, Rowland's son-in-law, was also a large land-proprietor. +Reed had fallen in with Rowland in New Mexico, and while there married +Rowland's daughter, Nieves; and when Rowland started for California, +Reed came with him and together they entered into ranching at La +Puente, finding artesian water there, in 1859. Thirteen years before, +Reed was in the American army and took part in the battles fought on +the march from San Diego to Los Angeles. After his death on the ranch +in 1874, his old homestead came into possession of John Rowland's son, +William, who often resided there; and Rowland, later discovering oil +on his land, organized the Puente Oil Company. + +Juan Forster, an Englishman, possessed the Santa Margarita _rancho_, +which he had taken up in 1864, some years after he married Doña +Ysidora Pico. She was a sister of Pio and Andrés Pico, and there, as a +result of that alliance, General Pico found a safe retreat while +fleeing from Frémont into Lower California. Forster for a while was a +seaman out of San Pedro. When he went to San Juan Capistrano, where he +became a sort of local _Alcalde_ and was often called Don San Juan or +even San Juan Capistrano, he experimented with raising stock and +became so successful as a _ranchero_ that he remained there twenty +years, during which time he acquired a couple of other ranches, in San +Diego and Los Angeles counties, comprising quite sixty thousand acres. +Forster, however, was comparatively land-poor, as may be inferred from +the fact that even though the owner of such a princely territory, he +was assessed in 1851 on but thirteen thousand dollars in personal +property. Later Don Juan lorded it over twice as much land in the +ranches of Santa Margarita and Las Flores. His fourth son, a namesake, +married Señorita Josefa del Valle, daughter of Don Ygnácio del Valle. + +Manuel, Pedro, Nasário and Victoria Dominguez owned in the +neighborhood of forty-eight thousand acres of the choicest land in the +South. More than a century ago, Juan José Dominguez received from the +King of Spain ten or eleven leagues of land, known as the Rancho de +San Pedro; and this was given by Governor de Sola, after Juan José's +death in 1822, to his brother, Don Cristóbal Dominguez, a Spanish +officer. Don Cristóbal married a Mexican commissioner's daughter, and +one of their ten children was Manuel, who, educated by wide reading +and fortunate in a genial temperament and high standard of honor, +became an esteemed and popular officer under the Mexican _régime_, +displaying no little chivalry in the battle of Dominguez fought on his +own property. On the death of his father, Don Manuel took charge of +the Rancho de San Pedro (buying out his sister Victoria's interest of +twelve thousand acres, at fifty cents an acre) until in 1855 it was +partitioned between himself, his brother, Don Pedro and two nephews, +José António Aguirre and Jacinto Rocha. One daughter, Victoria, +married George Carson in 1857. At his death, in 1882, Dominguez +bequeathed to his heirs twenty odd thousand acres, including +Rattlesnake Island in San Pedro Bay. James A. Watson, an early-comer, +married a second daughter; John F. Francis married a third, and Dr. +del Amo married a fourth. + +Henry Dalton, who came here sometime before 1845, having been a +merchant in Peru, owned the Azusa Ranch of over four thousand acres, +the patent to which was finally issued in 1876, and also part of the +San Francisquito Ranch of eight thousand acres, allowed him somewhat +later. Besides these, he had an interest, with Ygnácio Palomares and +Ricardo Vejar, in the San José _rancho_ of nearly twenty-seven +thousand acres. As early as the twenty-first of May, 1851, Dalton, +with keen foresight, seems to have published a plan for the +subdivision of nine or ten thousand acres into lots to suit limited +ranchers; but it was some time before Duarte and other places, now on +the above-mentioned estates, arose from his dream. On a part of his +property, Azusa, a town of the Boom period, was founded some +twenty-two miles from Los Angeles, and seven or eight hundred feet up +the Azusa slope; and now other towns also flourish near these +attractive foothills. One of Dalton's daughters was given in marriage +to Louis, a son of William Wolfskill. Dalton's brother, George, I have +already mentioned as having likewise settled here. + +Of all these worthy dons, possessing vast landed estates, Don António +María Lugo, brother of Ygnácio Lugo, was one of the most affluent and +venerable. He owned the San António _rancho_, named I presume after +him; and in 1856, when he celebrated his seventy-fifth birthday, was +reputed to be the owner of fully twenty-nine thousand acres and +personal property to the extent of seventy-two thousand dollars. Three +sons, José María, José del Carmen and Vicente Lugo, as early as 1842 +also acquired in their own names about thirty-seven thousand acres. + + [Illustration: Louis Robidoux] + + [Illustration: Julius G. Weyse] + + [Illustration: John Behn] + + [Illustration: Louis Breer] + + [Illustration: William J. Broderick] + + [Illustration: Isaac R. Dunkelberger] + + [Illustration: Frank J. Carpenter] + + [Illustration: Augustus Ulyard] + +Louis Robidoux, a French-American of superior ability who, like many +others, had gone through much that was exciting and unpleasant to +establish himself in this wild, open country, eventually had an +immense estate known as the Jurupa _rancho_, from which on September +26th, 1846, during the Mexican War, B. D. Wilson and others rode forth +to be neatly trapped and captured at the Chino; and where the outlaw +Irving later encamped. Riverside occupies a site on this land; and the +famous Robidoux hill, usually spoken of as the Robidoux mountain, once +a part of Louis's ranch and to-day a Mecca for thousands of tourists, +was named after him. + +Many of the _rancheros_ kept little ranch stores, from which they sold +to their employees. This was rather for convenience than for profit. +When their help came to Los Angeles, they generally got drunk and +stayed away from work longer than the allotted time; and it was to +prevent this, as far as possible, that these outlying stores were +conducted. + +Louis Robidoux maintained such a store for the accommodation of his +hands, and often came to town, sometimes for several days, on which +occasions he would buy very liberally anything that happened to take +his fancy. In this respect he occasionally acted without good +judgment, and if opposed would become all the more determined. Not +infrequently he called for so large a supply of some article that I +was constrained to remark that he could not possibly need so much; +whereupon he would repeat the order with angry emphasis. I sometimes +visited his ranch and recall, in particular, one stay of two or three +days there in 1857 when, after an unusually large purchase, Robidoux +asked me to assist him in checking up the invoices. The cases were +unpacked in his ranchhouse; and I have never forgotten the amusing +picture of the numerous little Robidoux, digging and delving among the +assorted goods for all the prizes they could find, and thus rendering +the process of listing the goods much more difficult. When the +delivery had been found correct, Robidoux turned to his Mexican wife +and asked her to bring the money. She went to the side of the room, +opened a Chinese trunk such as every well-to-do Mexican family had +(and sometimes as many as half a dozen), and drew therefrom the +customary buckskin, from which she extracted the required and rather +large amount. These trunks were made of cedar, were gaudily painted, +and had the quality of keeping out moths. They were, therefore, +displayed with pride by the owners. Recently on turning the pages of +some ledgers in which Newmark, Kremer & Company carried the account of +this famous _ranchero_, I was interested to find there full +confirmation of what I have elsewhere claimed--that the now renowned +Frenchman spelled the first syllable of his name _Ro-_, and not _Ru-_, +nor yet _Rou-_, as it is generally recorded in books and newspapers. + +I should refrain from mentioning a circumstance or two in Robidoux's +life with which I am familiar but for the fact that I believe +posterity is ever curious to know the little failings as well as the +pronounced virtues of men who, through exceptional personality or +association, have become historic characters; and that some knowledge +of their foibles should not tarnish their reputation. Robidoux, as I +have remarked, came to town very frequently, and when again he found +himself amid livelier scenes and congenial fellows, as in the late +fifties, he always celebrated the occasion with a few intimates, +winding up his befuddling bouts in the arms of Chris Fluhr, who winked +at his weakness and good-naturedly tucked him away in one of the +old-fashioned beds of the Lafayette Hotel, there to remain until he +was able to transact business. After all, such celebrating was then +not at all uncommon among the best of Southern California people, nor, +if gossip may be credited, is it entirely unknown to-day. Robert +Hornbeck, of Redlands, by the way, has sought to perpetuate this +pioneer's fame in an illustrated volume, _Roubidoux's Ranch in the +70's_, published as I am closing my story. + +Robidoux's name leads me to recur to early judges and to his +identification with the first Court of Sessions here, when there was +such a sparseness even of _rancherías_. Robidoux then lived on his +Jurupa domain, and not having been at the meeting of township justices +which selected himself and Judge Scott to sit on the bench, and +enjoying but infrequent communication with the more peopled districts +of Southern California, he knew nothing of the outcome of the +election until sometime after it had been called. More than this, +Judge Robidoux never actually participated in a sitting of the Court +of Sessions until four or five weeks after it had been almost daily +transacting business! + +Speaking of ranches, and of the Jurupa in particular, I may here +reprint an advertisement--a miniature tree and a house heading the +following announcement in the _Southern Californian_ of June 20th, +1855: + + The Subscriber, being anxious to get away from Swindlers, + offers for sale one of the very finest _ranchos_, or tracts + of land, that is to be found in California, known as the + Rancho de Jurupa, Santa Ana River, in the County of San + Bernardino. + +Bernardo Yorba was another great landowner; and I am sure that, in the +day of his glory, he might have traveled fifty to sixty miles in a +straight line, touching none but his own possessions. His ranches, on +one of which Pio Pico hid from Santiago Arguello, were delightfully +located where now stand such places as Anaheim, Orange, Santa Ana, +Westminster, Garden Grove and other towns in Orange County--then a +part of Los Angeles County. + +This leads me to describe a shrewd trick. Schlesinger & Sherwinsky, +traders in general merchandise in 1853, when they bought a wagon in +San Francisco, brought it here by steamer, loaded it with various +attractive wares, took it out to good-natured and easy-going Bernardo +Yorba, and wheedled the well-known _ranchero_ into purchasing not only +the contents, but the wagon, horses and harness as well. Indeed, their +ingenuity was so well rewarded, that soon after this first lucky hit, +they repeated their success, to the discomfiture of their competitors; +and if I am not mistaken, they performed the same operation on the old +don several times. + +The Verdugo family had an extensive acreage where such towns as +Glendale now enjoy the benefit of recent suburban development, +Governor Pedro Fages having granted, as early as 1784, some thirty-six +thousand acres to Don José María Verdugo, which grant was reaffirmed +in 1798, thereby affording the basis of a patent issued in 1882, to +Julio Verdugo _et al_, although Verdugo died in 1858. To this Verdugo +_rancho_, Frémont sent Jesus Pico--the Mexican guide whose life he had +spared, as he was about to be executed at San Luis Obispo--to talk +with the Californians and to persuade them to deal with Frémont +instead of Stockton; and there on February 21st, 1845, Micheltorena +and Castro met. Near there also, still later, the celebrated Casa +Verdugo entertained for many years the epicures of Southern +California, becoming one of the best-known restaurants for Spanish +dishes in the State. Little by little, the Verdugo family lost all +their property, partly through their refusal or inability to pay +taxes; so that by the second decade of the Twentieth Century the +surviving representatives, including Victoriano and Guillermo Verdugo, +were reduced to poverty.[15] + +Recalling Verdugo and his San Rafael Ranch let me add that he had +thirteen sons, all of whom frequently accompanied their father to +town, especially on election day. On those occasions, J. Lancaster +Brent, whose political influence with the old man was supreme, took +the Verdugo party in hand and distributed, through the father, +fourteen election tickets, on which were impressed the names of +Brent's candidates. + +Manuel Garfias, County Treasurer a couple of years before I came, was +another land-baron, owning in his own name some thirteen or fourteen +thousand acres of the San Pasqual Ranch. There, among the picturesque +hills and valleys where both Pico and Flores had military camps, now +flourish the cities of Pasadena and South Pasadena, which include the +land where stood the first house erected on the ranch. It is my +impression that beautiful Altadena is also on this land. + +Ricardo Vejar, another magnate, had an interest in a wide area of rich +territory known as the San José Ranch. Not less than twenty-two +thousand acres made up this _rancho_ which, as early as 1837, had been +granted by Governor Alvarado to Vejar and Ygnácio Palomares who died +on November 25th, 1864. Two or three years later, Luis Arenas joined +the two, and Alvarado renewed his grant, tacking on a league or two of +San José land lying to the West and nearer the San Gabriel mountains. +Arenas, in time, disposed of his interest to Henry Dalton; and Dalton +joined Vejar in applying to the courts for a partitioning of the +estate. This division was ordered by the Spanish _Alcalde_ six or +seven years before my arrival; but Palomares still objected to the +decision, and the matter dragged along in the tribunals many years, +the decree finally being set aside by the Court. Vejar, who had been +assessed in 1851 for thirty-four thousand dollars' worth of personal +property, sold his share of the estate for twenty-nine thousand +dollars, in the spring of 1874. It is a curious fact that not until +the San José _rancho_ had been so cut up that it was not easy to trace +it back to the original grantees, did the authorities at Washington +finally issue a patent to Dalton, Palomares and Vejar for the +twenty-two thousand acres which originally made up the ranch. + +The Machados, of whom there were several brothers--Don Agustin, who +died on May 17th, 1865, being the head of the family--had title to +nearly fourteen thousand acres. Their ranch, originally granted to Don +Ygnácio Machado in 1839 and patented in 1873, was known as La Ballona +and extended from the city limits to the ocean; and there, among other +stock, in 1860, were more than two thousand head of cattle. + +The Picos acquired much territory. There were two brothers--Pio, who +as Mexican Governor had had wide supervision over land, and Andrés, +who had fought throughout the San Pasqual campaigns until the +capitulation at Cahuenga, and still later had dashed with spirit +across country in pursuit of the murderers of Sheriff Barton. Pio Pico +alone, in 1851, was assessed for twenty-two thousand acres as well as +twenty-one thousand dollars in personal property. Besides controlling +various San Fernando ranches (once under B. H. Lancaro's management), +Andrés Pico possessed La Habra, a ranch of over six thousand acres, +for which a patent was granted in 1872, and the ranch Los Coyotes, +including over forty-eight thousand acres, patented three years later; +while Pio Pico at one time owned the Santa Margarita and Las Flores +_ranchos_, and had, in addition, some nine thousand acres known as +Paso de Bartolo. In his old age the Governor--who, as long as I knew +him, had been strangely loose in his business methods, and had +borrowed from everybody--found himself under the necessity of +obtaining some thirty or forty thousand dollars, even at the expense +of giving to B. Cohn, W. J. Brodrick and Charles Prager, a blanket +mortgage covering all of his properties. These included the Pico +House, the Pico Ranch on the other side of the San Gabriel River--the +homestead on which has for some time been preserved by the ladies of +Whittier--and property on Main Street, north of Commercial, besides +some other holdings. When his note fell due Pico was unable to meet +it; and the mortgage was foreclosed. The old man was then left +practically penniless, a suit at law concerning the interpretation of +the loan-agreement being decided against him. + +Henry C. Wiley must have arrived very early, as he had been in Los +Angeles some years before I came. He married a daughter of Andrés Pico +and for a while had charge of his San Fernando Ranch. Wiley served, at +one time, as Sheriff of the County. He died in 1898. + +The _rancho_ Los Nietos or, more properly speaking, perhaps, the Santa +Gertrudis, than whose soil (watered, as it is, by the San Gabriel +River) none more fertile can be found in the world, included indeed a +wide area extending between the Santa Ana and San Gabriel rivers, and +embracing the ford known as Pico Crossing. It was then in possession +of the Carpenter family, Lemuel Carpenter having bought it from the +heirs of Manuel Nieto, to whom it had been granted in 1784. Carpenter +came from Missouri to this vicinity as early as 1833, when he was but +twenty-two years old. For a while, he had a small soap-factory on the +right bank of the San Gabriel River, after which he settled on the +ranch; and there he remained until November 6th, 1859, when he +committed suicide. Within the borders of this ranch to-day lie such +places as Downey and Rivera. + +Francisco Sanchez was another early _ranchero_--probably the same who +figured so prominently in early San Francisco; and it is possible that +J. M. Sanchez, to whom, in 1859, was re-granted the forty-four hundred +acres of the Potrero Grande, was his heir. + +There were two large and important landowners, second cousins, known +as José Sepúlveda; the one, Don José Andrés, and the other, Don José +Loreto. The father of José Andrés was Don Francisco Sepúlveda, a +Spanish officer to whom the San Vicente Ranch had been granted; and +José Andrés, born in San Diego in 1804, was the oldest of eleven +children. His brothers were Fernando, José del Carmen, Dolores and +Juan María; and he also had six sisters. To José Andrés, or José as he +was called, the San Joaquín Ranch was given, an enormous tract of land +lying between the present Tustin, earlier known as Tustin City, and +San Juan Capistrano, and running from the hills to the sea; while, on +the death of Don Francisco, the San Vicente Ranch, later bought by +Jones and Baker, was left to José del Carmen, Dolores and Juan María. +José, in addition, bought eighteen hundred acres from José António +Yorba, and on this newly-acquired property he built his ranchhouse, +although he and his family may be said to have been more or less +permanent residents of Los Angeles. Fernando Sepúlveda married a +Verdugo, and through her became proprietor of much of the Verdugo +_rancho_. The fact that José was so well provided for, and that +Fernando had come into control of the Verdugo acres, made it mutually +satisfactory that the San Vicente Ranch should have been willed to the +other sons. The children of José Andrés included Miguel, Maurício, +Bernabé, Joaquín, Andrónico and Ygnácio, and Francisca, wife of James +Thompson, Tomása, wife of Frank Rico, Ramona, wife of Captain +Salisbury Haley of the _Sea Bird_, Ascención, wife of Tom Mott, and +Tranquilina. The latter, with Mrs. Mott and Judge Ygnácio, are still +living here. + +Don José Loreto, brother of Juan and Diego Sepúlveda, father of Mrs. +John T. Lanfranco, and a well-known resident of Los Angeles County in +early days, presided over the destinies of thirty-one thousand acres +in the Palos Verdes _rancho_, where Flores had stationed his soldiers +to watch the American ship _Savannah_. Full patent to this land was +granted in 1880. + +There being no fences to separate the great ranches, cattle roamed at +will; nor were the owners seriously concerned, for every man had his +distinct, registered brand and in proper season the various herds were +segregated by means of _rodeos_, or round-ups of strayed or mixed +cattle. On such occasions, all of the _rancheros_ within a certain +radius drove their herds little by little into a corral designated for +the purpose, and each selected his own cattle according to brand. +After segregation had thus been effected, they were driven from the +corral, followed by the calves, which were also branded, in +anticipation of the next _rodeo_. + +Such round-ups were great events, for they brought all the _rancheros_ +and _vaqueros_ together. They became the _raison d'être_ of elaborate +celebrations, sometimes including horse-races, bull-fights and other +amusements; and this was the case particularly in 1861, because of the +rains and consequent excellent season. + +The enormous herds of cattle gathered at _rodeos_ remind me, in fact, +of a danger that the _rancheros_ were obliged to contend with, +especially when driving their stock from place to place: Indians +stampeded the cattle, whenever possible, so that in the confusion +those escaping the _vaqueros_ and straggling behind might the more +easily be driven to the Indian camps; and sometimes covetous ranchmen +caused a similar commotion among the stock in order to make thieving +easier. + +While writing of ranches, one bordering on the other, unfenced and +open, and the enormous number of horses and cattle, as well as men +required to take care of such an amount of stock, I must not forget to +mention an institution that had flourished, as a branch of the +judiciary, in palmier Mexican days, though it was on the wane when I +arrived here. This was the Judgeship of the Plains, an office charged +directly with the interests of the ranchman. Judges of the Plains were +officials delegated to arrange for the _rodeos_, and to hold informal +court, in the saddle or on the open hillside, in order to settle +disputes among, and dispense justice to, those living and working +beyond the pales of the towns. Under Mexican rule, a Judge of the +Plains, who was more or less a law unto himself, served for glory and +dignity (much as does an English Justice of the Peace); and the latter +factor was an important part of the stipulation, as we may gather from +a story told by early Angeleños of the impeachment of Don António +María Lugo. Don António was then a Judge of the Plains, and as such +was charged with having, while on horseback, nearly trampled upon +Pedro Sanchez, for no other reason than that poor Pedro had refused to +"uncover" while the Judge rode by, and to keep his hat off until his +Honor was unmistakably out of sight! When, at length, Americans took +possession of Southern California, Judges of the Plains were given +less power, and provision was made, for the first time, for a modest +_honorarium_ in return for their travel and work. + +For nearly a couple of decades after the organization of Los Angeles +under the incoming white pioneers, not very much was known of the vast +districts inland and adjacent to Southern California; and one can well +understand the interest felt by our citizens on July 17th, 1855, when +Colonel Washington, of the United States Surveying Expedition to the +Rio Colorado, put up at the Bella Union on his way to San Francisco. +He was bombarded with questions about the region lying between the San +Bernardino Mountain range and the Colorado, hitherto unexplored; and +being a good talker, readily responded with much entertaining +information. + +In July, 1855, I attained my majority and, having by this time a fair +command of English, I took a more active part in social affairs. +Before he married Margarita, daughter of Juan Bandini, Dr. J. B. +Winston, then interested in the Bella Union, organized most of the +dances, and I was one of his committee of arrangements. We would +collect from the young men of our acquaintance money enough to pay for +candles and music; for each musician--playing either a harp, a guitar +or a flute--charged from a dollar to a dollar and a half for his +services. Formal social events occurred in the evening of almost any +day of the week. Whenever Dr. Winston or the young gallants of that +period thought it was time to have a dance, they just passed around +the hat for the necessary funds, and announced the affair. Ladies were +escorted to functions, although we did not take them in carriages or +other vehicles but tramped through the dust or mud. Young ladies, +however, did not go out with gentlemen unless they were accompanied by +a chaperon, generally some antiquated female member of the family. + +These hops usually took place at the residence of Widow Blair, +opposite the Bella Union and north of the present Post Office. There +we could have a sitting-room, possibly eighteen by thirty feet square; +and while this was larger than any other room in a private house in +town, it will be realized that, after all, the space for dancing was +very limited. We made the best, however, of what we had; the +refreshments, at these improvised affairs, were rarely more than +lemonade and _olla_ water. + +Many times such dances followed as a natural termination to another +social observance, transmitted to us, I have no doubt, by the romantic +Spanish settlers here, and very popular for some time after I came. +This good old custom was serenading. We would collect money, as if for +dancing; and in the evening a company of young men and chaperoned +young ladies would proceed in a body to some popular girl's home +where, with innocent gallantry, the little band would serenade her. +After that, of course, we were always glad to accept an invitation to +come into the house, when the ladies of the household sometimes +regaled us with a bit of cake and wine. + +Speaking of the social life of those early days, when warm, +stimulating friendships and the lack of all foolish caste distinctions +rendered the occasions delightfully pleasant, may it not be well to +ask whether the contrast between those simple, inexpensive pleasures, +and the elaborate and extravagant demands of modern society, is not +worth sober thought? To be sure, Los Angeles then was exceedingly +small, and pioneers here were much like a large family in plain, +unpretentious circumstances. There were no such ceremonies as now; +there were no four hundred, no three hundred, nor even one hundred. +There was, for example, no flunky at the door to receive the visitor's +card; and for the very good reason that visiting cards were unknown. +In those pastoral, pueblo days it was no indiscretion for a friend to +walk into another friend's house without knocking. Society of the +early days could be divided, I suppose, into two classes: the +respectable and the evil element; and people who were honorable came +together because they esteemed each other and liked one another's +company. The "gold fish" of the present age had not yet developed. We +enjoyed ourselves together, and without distinction were ready to +fight to the last ditch for the protection of our families and the +preservation of our homes. + +In the fall of 1855, Dr. Thomas J. White, a native of St. Louis and +Speaker of the Assembly in the first California Legislature convened +at San José, in December, 1849, arrived from San Francisco with his +wife and two daughters, and bought a vineyard next to Dr. Hoover's +ten-acre place where, in three or four years, he became one of the +leading wine-producers. Their advent created quite a stir, and the +house, which was a fine and rather commodious one for the times, soon +became the scene of extensive entertainments. The addition of this +highly-accomplished family was indeed quite an accession to our social +ranks. Their hospitality compared favorably even with California's +open-handed and open-hearted spirit, and soon became notable. Their +evening parties and other receptions were both frequent and lavish, so +that the Whites quickly took rank as leaders in Los Angeles. While yet +in Sacramento, one of the daughters, who had fallen in love with E. J. +C. Kewen when the latter was a member of the White party in crossing +the great Plains, married the Colonel; and in 1862, another daughter, +Miss Jennie, married Judge Murray Morrison. A son was T. Jeff White, +who named his place _Casalinda_. In the late fifties, Dr. White had a +drug-store in the Temple Building on Main Street. + +It was long before Los Angeles had anything like a regular theater, or +even enjoyed such shows as were provided by itinerant companies, some +of which, when they did begin to come, stayed here for weeks; although +I remember having heard of one ambitious group of players styling +themselves _The Rough and Ready Theater_, who appeared here very early +and gave sufficient satisfaction to elicit the testimony from a local +scribe, that "when Richmond was conquered and laid off for dead, the +enthusiastic auditors gave the King a smile of decided approval!" +Minstrels and circuses were occasionally presented, a minstrel +performance taking place sometime in the fifties, in an empty store on +Aliso Street, near Los Angeles. About the only feature of this event +that is now clear in my memory is that Bob Carsley played the bones; +he remained in Los Angeles and married, later taking charge of the +foundry which Stearns established when he built his Arcadia Block on +Los Angeles Street. An Albino also was once brought to Los Angeles and +publicly exhibited; and since anything out of the ordinary challenged +attention, everybody went to see a curiosity that to-day would attract +but little notice. Speaking of theatrical performances and the +applause bestowed upon favorites, I must not forget to mention the +reckless use of money and the custom, at first quite astounding to me, +of throwing coins--often large, shining slugs--upon the stage or +floor, if an actor or actress particularly pleased the spendthrift +patron. + +In October, 1855, William Abbott, who was one of the many to come to +Los Angeles in 1853, and who had brought with him a small stock of +furniture, started a store in a little wooden house he had acquired on +a lot next to that which later became the site of the Pico House. +Abbott married Doña Merced Garcia; and good fortune favoring him, he +not only gradually enlarged his stock of goods, but built a more +commodious building, in the upper story of which was the Merced +Theater, named after Abbott's wife, and opened in the late sixties. +The vanity of things mundane is well illustrated in the degeneration +of this center of early histrionic effort, which entered a period of +decay in the beginning of the eighties and, as the scene of +disreputable dances, before 1890 had been pronounced a nuisance. + +During the first decade under the American _régime_, Los Angeles +gradually learned the value of reaching toward the outside world and +welcoming all who responded. In 1855, as I have said, a brisk trade +was begun with Salt Lake, through the opening up of a route--leading +along the old Spanish trail to Santa Fé. Banning & Alexander, with +their usual enterprise, together with W. T. B. Sanford, made the first +shipment in a heavily-freighted train of fifteen wagons drawn by one +hundred and fifty mules. The train, which carried thirty tons, was +gone four months; having left Los Angeles in May, it returned in +September. In every respect the experiment was a success, and +naturally the new route had a beneficial effect on Southern California +trade. It also contributed to the development of San Bernardino, +through which town it passed. Before the year was out, one or two +express companies were placarding the stores here with announcements +of rates "To Great Salt Lake City." Banning, by the way, then +purchased in Salt Lake the best wagons he had, and brought here some +of the first vehicles with spokes to be seen in Los Angeles. + +The school authorities of the past sometimes sailed on waters as +troubled as those rocking the Educational Boards to-day. I recall an +amusing incident of the middle fifties, when a new set of Trustees, +having succeeded to the control of affairs, were scandalized, or at +least pretended to be, by an action of their predecessors, and +immediately adopted the following resolution: + + _Resolved_, that page seven of the School Commissioners' + Record be pasted down on page eight, so that the indecorous + language written therein by the School Commissioners of + 1855, can never again be read or seen, said language being + couched in such terms that the present School Commissioners + are not willing to read such record. + +Richard Laughlin died at his vineyard, on the east side of Alameda +Street, in or soon after 1855. Like William Wolfskill, Ewing +Young--who fitted out the Wolfskill party--and Moses Carson, brother +of the better-known Kit and at one time a trader at San Pedro, +Laughlin was a trapper who made his way to Los Angeles along the Gila +River. This was a waterway of the savage Apache country traversed even +in 1854--according to the lone ferryman's statistics--by nearly ten +thousand persons. In middle life, Laughlin supported himself by +carpentry and hunting. + +With the increase in the number and activity of the Chinese in +California, the prejudice of the masses was stirred up violently. This +feeling found expression particularly in 1855, when a law was passed +by the Legislature, imposing a fine of fifty dollars on each owner or +master of a vessel bringing to California anyone incapable of becoming +a citizen; but when suit was instituted, to test the act's validity, +it was declared unconstitutional. At that time, most of the opposition +to the Chinese came from San Franciscans, there being but few coolies +here. + +Certain members of the same Legislature led a movement to form a new +State, to be called Colorado and to include all the territory south of +San Luis Obispo; and the matter was repeatedly discussed in several +subsequent sessions. Nothing came of it, however; but Kern County was +formed, in 1866, partly from Los Angeles County and partly from +Tulare. About five thousand square miles, formerly under our County +banner, were thus legislated away; and because the mountainous and +desert area seemed of little prospective value, we submitted +willingly. In this manner, unenlightened by modern science and +ignorant of future possibilities, Southern California, guided by no +clear and certain vision, drifted and stumbled along to its +destiny. + + [Illustration: Los Angeles in the Late Fifties + From a contemporary sketch] + + [Illustration: Myer J. Newmark] + + [Illustration: Dr. John S. Griffin] + + [Illustration: Edward J. C. Kewen] + + [Illustration: William C. Warren] + +FOOTNOTE: + +[15] Julio Chrisostino Verdugo died early in March, 1915, supposed to +be about one hundred and twelve years old. + + + + +CHAPTER XIV + +ORCHARDS AND VINEYARDS + +1856 + + +During 1856, I dissolved with my partners, Rich and Laventhal, and +went into business with my uncle, Joseph Newmark, J. P. Newmark and +Maurice Kremer, under the title of Newmark, Kremer & Company. Instead +of a quasi wholesale business, we now had a larger assortment and did +more of a retail business. We occupied a room, about forty by eighty +feet in size, in the Mascarel and Barri block on the south side of +Commercial Street (then known as Commercial Row), between Main and Los +Angeles streets, our modest establishment being almost directly +opposite the contracted quarters of my first store and having the +largest single storeroom then in the city; and there we continued with +moderate success, until 1858. + +To make this new partnership possible, Kremer had sold out his +interest in the firm of Lazard & Kremer, dry goods merchants, the +readjustment providing an amusing illustration of the manner in which +business, with its almost entire lack of specialization, was then +conducted. When the stock was taken, a large part of it consisted, not +of dry goods, as one might well suppose, but of--cigars and tobacco! + +About the beginning of 1856, Sisters of Charity made their first +appearance in Los Angeles, following a meeting called by Bishop Amat +during the preceding month, to provide for their coming, when Abel +Stearns presided and John G. Downey acted as Secretary. Benjamin +Hayes, Thomas Foster, Ezra Drown, Louis Vignes, Ygnácio del Valle and +António Coronel coöperated, while Manuel Requena collected the +necessary funds. On January 5th, Sisters María Scholastica, María +Corzina, Ana, Clara, Francisca and Angela arrived--three of them +coming almost directly from Spain; and immediately they formed an +important adjunct to the Church in matters pertaining to religion, +charity and education. It was to them that B. D. Wilson sold his Los +Angeles home, including ten acres of fine orchard, at the corner of +Alameda and Macy streets, for eight thousand dollars; and there for +many years they conducted their school, the Institute and Orphan +Asylum, until they sold the property to J. M. Griffith, who used the +site for a lumber-yard. Griffith, in turn, disposed of it to the +Southern Pacific Railroad Company. Sister Scholastica, who celebrated +in 1889 her fiftieth anniversary as a sister, was long the Mother +Superior. + +The so-called First Public School having met with popular approval, +the Board of Education in 1856 opened another school on Bath Street. +The building, two stories in height, was of brick and had two rooms. + +On January 9th, John P. Brodie assumed charge of the _Southern +Californian_. Andrés Pico was then proprietor; and before the +newspaper died, in 1857, Pico lost, it is said, ten thousand dollars +in the venture. + +The first regular course of public lectures here was given in 1856 +under the auspices of a society known as the Mechanics' Institute, and +in one of Henry Dalton's corrugated iron buildings. + +George T. Burrill, first County Sheriff, died on February 2d, his +demise bringing to mind an interesting story. He was Sheriff, in the +summer of 1850, when certain members of the infamous Irving party were +arraigned for murder, and during that time received private word that +many of the prisoners' friends would pack the little court room and +attempt a rescue. Burrill, however, who used to wear a sword and had a +rather soldierly bearing, was equal to the emergency. He quickly sent +to Major E. H. Fitzgerald and had the latter come post-haste to town +and court with a detachment of soldiers; and with this superior, +disciplined force he overawed the bandits' _compañeros_ who, sure +enough, were there and fully armed to make a demonstration. + +Thomas E. Rowan arrived here with his father, James Rowan, in 1856, +and together they opened a bakery. Tom delivered the bread for a short +time, but soon abandoned that pursuit for politics, being frequently +elected to office, serving in turn as Supervisor, City and County +Treasurer and even, from 1893 to 1894, as Mayor of Los Angeles. +Shortly before Tom married Miss Josephine Mayerhofer in San Francisco +in 1862--and a handsome couple they made--the Rowans bought from Louis +Mesmer the American Bakery, located at the southwest corner of Main +and First streets and originally established by August Ulyard. When +James Rowan died about forty years ago, Tom fell heir to the bakery; +but as he was otherwise engaged, he employed Maurice Maurício as +manager, and P. Galta, afterward a prosperous business man of +Bakersfield, as driver. Tom, who died in 1899, was also associated as +cashier with I. W. Hellman and F. P. F. Temple in their bank. Rowan +Avenue and Rowan Street were both named after this early comer. + +The time for the return of my brother and his European bride now +approached, and I felt a natural desire to meet them. Almost +coincident, therefore, with their arrival in San Francisco, I was +again in that growing city in 1856, although I had been there but the +year previous. + +On April 9th, occurred the marriage of Matilda, daughter of Joseph +Newmark, to Maurice Kremer. The ceremony was performed by the bride's +father. For the subsequent festivities, ice, from which ice cream was +made, was brought from San Bernardino; both luxuries on this occasion +being used in Los Angeles, as far as I can remember, for the first +time. + +To return to the Los Angeles _Star_. When J. S. Waite became +Postmaster, in 1855, he found it no sinecure to continue even such an +unpretentious and, in all likelihood, unprofitable news-sheet and at +the same time attend to Uncle Sam's mail-bags; and early in 1856 he +offered "the entire establishment at one thousand dollars less than +cost." Business was so slow at that time, in fact, that Waite--after, +perhaps, ruefully looking over his unpaid subscriptions--announced +that he would "take wood, butter, eggs, flour, wheat or corn" in +payment of bills due. He soon found a ready customer in William A. +Wallace, the Principal of the boys' school who, on the twelfth of +April, bought the paper; but Waite's disgust was nothing to that of +the schoolteacher who, after two short months' trial with the +editorial quill, scribbled a last doleful _adiós_. "The flush times of +the pueblo, the day of large prices and pocket-books, are past," +Wallace declared; and before him the editor saw "only picayunes, bad +liquor, rags and universal dullness, when neither pistol-shots nor +dying groans" could have any effect, and "when earthquakes would +hardly turn men in their beds!" Nothing was left for such a destitute +and discouraged quillman "but to wait for a _carreta_ and get out of +town." Wallace sold the paper, therefore, in June, 1856, to Henry +Hamilton, a native of Ireland who had come to California in 1848 an +apprenticed printer, and was for some years in newspaper work in San +Francisco; and Hamilton soon put new life into the journal. + +In 1856, the many-sided Dr. William B. Osburn organized a company to +bore an artesian well west of the city; but when it reached a depth of +over seven hundred feet, the prospectors went into bankruptcy. + +George Lehman, early known as George the Baker (whose shop at one time +was on the site of the Hayward Hotel), was a somewhat original and +very popular character who, in 1856, took over the Round House on Main +Street, between Third and Fourth, and there opened a pleasure-resort +extending to Spring Street and known as the Garden of Paradise. The +grounds really occupied on the one hand what are now the sites of the +Pridham, the Pinney and the Turnverein, and on the other the Henne, +the Breed and the Lankershim blocks. There was an entrance on Main +Street and one, with two picket gates, on Spring. From the general +shape and appearance of the building, it was always one of the first +objects in town to attract attention; and Lehman (who, when he +appeared on the street, had a crooked cane hanging on his arm and a +lemon in his hand), came to be known as "Round House George." The +house had been erected in the late forties by Raimundo, generally +called Ramón, or Raymond Alexander, a sailor, who asserted that the +design was a copy of a structure he had once seen on the coast of +Africa; and there Ramón and his native California wife had lived for +many years. Partly because he wished to cover the exterior with vines +and flowers, Lehman nailed boards over the outer adobe walls and thus +changed the cylinder form into that of an octagon. An ingenious +arrangement of the _parterre_ and a peculiar distribution of some +trees, together with a profusion of plants and flowers--affording cool +and shady bowers, somewhat similar to those of a typical beer or wine +garden of the Fatherland--gave the place great popularity; while two +heroic statues--one of _Adam_ and the other of _Eve_--with a +conglomeration of other curiosities, including the _Apple Tree_ and +the _Serpent_--all illustrating the world-old story of Eden--and a +moving panorama made the Garden unique and rather famous. The balcony +of the house provided accommodation for the playing of such music, +perhaps discordant, as Los Angeles could then produce, and nearby was +a framework containing a kind of swing then popular and known as +"flying horses." The bar was in the Garden, near a well-sweep; and at +the Main Street entrance stood a majestic and noted cactus tree which +was cut down in 1886. The Garden of Paradise was opened toward the end +of September, 1858, and so large were the grounds that when they were +used, in 1876, for the Fourth of July celebration, twenty-six hundred +people were seated there. + +This leads me to say that Arthur McKenzie Dodson, who established a +coal- and wood-yard at what was later the corner of Spring and Sixth +streets, started there a little community which he called +Georgetown--as a compliment, it was said, to the famous Round House +George whose bakery, I have remarked, was located on that corner. + +On June 7th, Dr. John S. Griffin, who had an old fashioned, classical +education, and was a graduate, in medicine, of the University of +Pennsylvania, succeeded Dr. William B. Osburn as Superintendent of the +Los Angeles City Schools. + +In these times of modern irrigation and scientific methods, it is hard +to realize how disastrous were climatic extremes in an earlier day: in +1856, a single electric disturbance, accompanied by intense heat and +sandstorms, left tens of thousands of dead cattle to tell the story of +drought and destruction. + +During the summer, I had occasion to go to Fort Tejón to see George C. +Alexander, a customer, and I again asked Sam Meyer if he would +accompany me. Such a proposition was always agreeable to Sam; and, +having procured horses, we started, the distance being about one +hundred and fifteen miles. + +We left Los Angeles early one afternoon, and made our first stop at +Lyons's Station, where we put up for the night. One of the brothers, +after whom the place was named, prepared supper. Having to draw some +thick blackstrap from a keg, he used a pitcher to catch the treacle; +and as the liquid ran very slowly, our sociable host sat down to talk +a bit, and soon forgot all about what he had started to do. The +molasses, however, although it ran pretty slowly, ran steadily, and +finally, like the mush in the fairy-tale of the enchanted bowl, +overflowed the top of the receptacle and spread itself over the dirt +floor. When Lyons had finished his chat, he saw, to his intense +chagrin, a new job upon his hands, and one likely to busy him for some +time. + +Departing next morning at five o'clock we met Cy Lyons, who had come +to Los Angeles in 1849 and was then engaged with his brother Sanford +in raising sheep in that neighborhood. Cy was on horseback and had two +pack animals, loaded with provisions. "Hello, boys! where are you +bound?" he asked; and when we told him that we were on our way to Fort +Tejón, he said that he was also going there, and volunteered to save +us forty miles by guiding us over the trail. Such a shortening of our +journey appealed to us as a good prospect, and we fell in behind the +mounted guide. + +It was one of those red-hot summer days characteristic of that region +and season, and in a couple of hours we began to get very thirsty. +Noticing this, Cy told us that no water would be found until we got to +the Rancho de la Liebre, and that we could not possibly reach there +until evening. Having no _bota de agua_ handy, I took an onion from +Lyons's pack and ate it, and that afforded me some relief; but Sam, +whose decisions were always as lasting as the fragrance of that +aromatic bulb, would not try the experiment. To make a long story +short, when we at last reached the ranch, Sam, completely fagged out, +and unable to alight from his horse, toppled off into our arms. The +chewing of the onion had refreshed me to some extent, but just the +same the day's journey proved one of the most miserable experiences +through which I have ever passed. + +The night was so hot at the ranch that we decided to sleep outdoors in +one of the wagons; and being worn out with the day's exposure and +fatigue, we soon fell asleep. The soundness of our slumbers did not +prevent us from hearing, in the middle of the night, a snarling bear, +scratching in the immediate neighborhood. A bear generally means +business; and you may depend upon it that neither Sam, myself nor even +Cy were very long in bundling out of the wagon and making a dash for +the more protecting house. Early next morning, we recommenced our +journey toward Fort Tejón, and reached there without any further +adventures worth relating. + +Coming back, we stopped for the night at Gordon's Station, and the +next day rode fully seventy miles--not so inconsiderable an +accomplishment, perhaps, for those not accustomed to regular saddle +exercise. + +A few months later, I met Cy on the street. "Harris," said he, "do you +know that once, on that hot day going to Fort Tejón, we were within +three hundred feet of a fine, cool spring?" "Then why in the devil," I +retorted, "didn't you take us to it?" To which Cy, with a chuckle, +answered: "Well, I just wanted to see what would happen to you!" + +My first experience with camp meetings was in the year 1856, when I +attended one in company with Miss Sarah Newmark, to whom I was then +engaged, and Miss Harriet, her sister--later Mrs. Eugene Meyer. I +engaged a buggy from George Carson's livery stable on Main Street; and +we rode to Ira Thompson's grove at El Monte, in which the meeting was +held. These camp meetings supplied a certain amount of social +attraction to residents, in that good-hearted period when creeds +formed a bond rather than a hindrance. + +It was in 1856 that, in connection with our regular business, we began +buying hides. One day a Mexican customer came into the store and, +looking around, said: "_¿Compra cueros?_" (Do you buy hides?) "_Sí, +señor_," I replied, to which he then said: "_Tengo muchos en mi +rancho_" (I have many at my ranch). "Where do you live?" I asked. +"Between Cahuenga and San Fernando Mission," he answered. He had come +to town in his _carreta_, and added that he would conduct me to his +place, if I wished to go there. + +I obtained a wagon and, accompanied by Samuel Cohn, went with the +Mexican. The native jogged on, _carreta_-fashion, the oxen lazily +plodding along, while the driver with his ubiquitous pole kept them in +the road by means of continual and effective prods, delivered first on +one side, then on the other. It was dark when we reached the ranch; +and the night being balmy, we wrapped ourselves up in blankets, and +slept under the adobe veranda. + +Early in the morning, I awoke and took a survey of the premises. To my +amazement, I saw but one little kipskin hanging up to dry! When at +length my Mexican friend appeared on the scene, I asked him where he +kept his hides? (_¿Donde tiene usted los cueros?_) At which he pointed +to the lone kip and, with a characteristic and perfectly indifferent +shrug of the shoulders, said: "_¡No tengo más!_" (I have no more!) + +I then deliberated with Sam as to what we should do; and having +proceeded to San Fernando Mission to collect there, if possible, a +load of hides, we were soon fortunate in obtaining enough to +compensate us for our previous trouble and disappointment. On the way +home, we came to a rather deep ditch preventing further progress. +Being obliged, however, to get to the other side, we decided to throw +the hides into the ditch, placing one on top of the other, until the +obstructing gap was filled to a level with the road; and then we drove +across, if not on dry land, at least on dry hides, which we reloaded +onto the wagon. Finally, we reached town at a late hour. + +In this connection, I may remind the reader of Dana's statement, in +his celebrated _Two Years before the Mast_, that San Pedro once +furnished more hides than any other port on the Coast; and may add +that from the same port, more than forty years afterward, consignments +of this valuable commodity were still being made, I myself being +engaged more and more extensively in the hide trade. + +Colonel Isaac Williams died on September 13th, having been a resident +of Los Angeles and vicinity nearly a quarter of a century. A +Pennsylvanian by birth, he had with him in the West a brother, Hiram, +later of San Bernardino County. Happy as was most of Colonel Williams' +life, tragedy entered his family circle, as I shall show, when both of +his sons-in-law, John Rains and Robert Carlisle, met violent deaths at +the hands of others. + +Jean Louis Vignes came to Los Angeles in 1829, and set out the Aliso +Vineyard of one hundred and four acres which derived its name, as did +the street, from a previous and incorrect application of the Castilian +_aliso_, meaning alder, to the sycamore tree, a big specimen of which +stood on the place. This tree, possibly a couple of hundred years old, +long shaded Vignes' wine-cellars, and was finally cut down a few years +ago to make room for the Philadelphia Brew House. From a spot about +fifty feet away from the Vignes adobe extended a grape arbor perhaps +ten feet in width and fully a quarter of a mile long, thus reaching to +the river; and this arbor was associated with many of the early +celebrations in Los Angeles. The northern boundary of the property was +Aliso Street; its western boundary was Alameda; and part of it was +surrounded by a high adobe wall, inside of which, during the troubles +of the Mexican War, Don Louis enjoyed a far safer seclusion than many +others. On June 7th, 1851, Vignes advertised El Aliso for sale, but +it was not subdivided until much later, when Eugene Meyer and his +associates bought it for this purpose. Vignes Street recalls the +veteran viticulturist. + +While upon the subject of this substantial old pioneer family, I may +give a rather interesting reminiscence as to the state of Aliso Street +at this time. I have said that this street was the main road from Los +Angeles to the San Bernardino country; and so it was. But in the +fifties, Aliso Street stopped very abruptly at the Sainsevain +Vineyard, where it narrowed down to one of the willow-bordered, +picturesque little lanes so frequently found here, and paralleled the +noted grape-arbor as far as the river-bank. At this point, Andrew +Boyle and other residents of the Heights and beyond were wont to cross +the stream on their way to and from town. The more important travel +was by means of another lane known as the Aliso Road, turning at a +corner occupied by the old Aliso Mill and winding along the Hoover +Vineyard to the river. Along this route the San Bernardino stage +rolled noisily, traversing in summer or during a poor season what was +an almost dry wash, but encountering in wet winter raging torrents so +impassable that all intercourse with the settlements to the east was +disturbed. For a whole week, on several occasions, the San Bernardino +stage was tied up, and once at least Andrew Boyle, before he had +become conversant with the vagaries of the Los Angeles River, found it +impossible for the better part of a fortnight to come to town for the +replenishment of a badly-depleted larder. Lovers' Lane, willowed and +deep with dust, was a narrow road now variously located in the minds +of pioneers; my impression being that it followed the line of the +present Date Street, although some insist that it was Macy. + +Pierre Sainsevain, a nephew of Vignes, came in 1839 and for a while +worked for his uncle. Jean Louis Sainsevain, another nephew, arrived +in Los Angeles in 1849 or soon after, and on April 14th, 1855, +purchased for forty-two thousand dollars the vineyard, cellars and +other property of his uncle. This was the same year in which he +returned to France for his son Michel and remarried, leaving another +son, Paul, in school there. Pierre joined his brother; and in 1857 +Sainsevain Brothers made the first California champagne, first +shipping their wine to San Francisco. Paul, now a resident of San +Diego, came to Los Angeles in 1861. The name endures in Sainsevain +Street. + +The activity of these Frenchmen reminds me that much usually +characteristic of country life was present in what was called the city +of Los Angeles, when I first saw it, as may be gathered from the fact +that, in 1853, there were a hundred or more vineyards hereabouts, +seventy-five or eighty of which were within the city precincts. These +did not include the once famous "mother vineyard" of San Gabriel +Mission, which the _padres_ used to claim had about fifty thousand +vines, but which had fallen into somewhat picturesque decay. Near San +Gabriel, however, in 1855, William M. Stockton had a large vineyard +nursery. William Wolfskill was one of the leading vineyardists, having +set out his first vine, so it was said, in 1838, when he affirmed his +belief that the plant, if well cared for, would flourish a hundred +years! Don José Serrano, from whom Dr. Leonce Hoover bought many of +the grapes he needed, did have vines, it was declared, that were +nearly a century old. When I first passed through San Francisco, _en +route_ to Los Angeles, I saw grapes from this section in the markets +of that city bringing twenty cents a pound; and to such an extent for +a while did San Francisco continue to draw on Los Angeles for grapes, +that Banning shipped thither from San Pedro, in 1857, no less than +twenty-one thousand crates, averaging forty-five pounds each. It was +not long, however, before ranches nearer San Francisco began to +interfere with this monopoly of the South, and, as, a consequence, the +shipment of grapes from Los Angeles fell off. This reminds me that +William Wolfskill sent to San Francisco some of the first Northern +grapes sold there; they were grown in a Napa Valley vineyard that he +owned in the middle of the fifties, and when unloaded on the Long +Wharf, three or four weeks in advance of Los Angeles grapes, brought +at wholesale twenty-five dollars per hundred weight! + +With the decline in the fresh fruit trade, however, the making and +exportation of wine increased, and several who had not ventured into +vineyarding before, now did so, acquiring their own land or an +interest in the establishments of others. By 1857, Jean Louis Vignes +boasted of possessing some white wine twenty years old--possibly of +the same vintage about which Dr. Griffin often talked, in his +reminiscences of the days when he had been an army surgeon; and Louis +Wilhart occasionally sold wine which was little inferior to that of +Jean Louis. Dr. Hoover was one of the first to make wine for the +general market, having, for a while, a pretty and well-situated place +called the Clayton Vineyard; and old Joseph Huber, who had come to +California from Kentucky for his health, began in 1855 to make wine +with considerable success. He owned the Foster Vineyard, where he died +in July, 1866. B. D. Wilson was also soon shipping wine to San +Francisco. L. J. Rose, who first entered the field in January, 1861, +at Sunny Slope, not far from San Gabriel Mission, was another +producer, and had a vineyard famous for brandy and wine. He made a +departure in going to the foothills, and introduced many varieties of +foreign grapes. By the same year, or somewhat previously, Matthew +Keller, Stearns & Bell, Dr. Thomas J. White, Dr. Parrott, Kiln Messer, +Henry Dalton, H. D. Barrows, Juan Bernard and Ricardo Vejar had +wineries, and John Schumacher had a vineyard opposite the site of the +City Gardens in the late seventies. L. H. Titus, in time, had a +vineyard, known as the Dewdrop, near that of Rose. Still another wine +producer was António María Lugo, who set out his vines on San Pedro +Street, near the present Second, and often dwelt in the long adobe +house where both Steve Foster, Lugo's son-in-law, and Mrs. Wallace +Woodworth lived, and where I have been many times pleasantly +entertained. + +Dr. Leonce Hoover, who died on October 8th, 1862, was a native of +Switzerland and formerly a surgeon in the army of Napoleon, when his +name--later changed at the time of naturalization--had been Huber. Dr. +Hoover in 1849 came to Los Angeles with his wife, his son, Vincent A. +Hoover, then a young man, and two daughters, the whole family +traveling by ox-team and prairie schooner. They soon discovered rich +_placer_ gold-beds, but were driven away by hostile Indians. A +daughter, Mary A., became the wife of Samuel Briggs, a New Hampshire +Yankee, who was for years Wells Fargo's agent here. For a while the +Hoovers lived on the Wolfskill Ranch, after which they had a vineyard +in the neighborhood of what is now the property of the Cudahy Packing +Company. Vincent Hoover was a man of prominence in his time; he died +in 1883. Mrs. Briggs, whose daughter married the well-known physician, +Dr. Granville MacGowan, sold her home, on Broadway between Third and +Fourth streets, to Homer Laughlin when he erected the Laughlin +Building. Hoover Street is named for this family. + +Accompanied by his son William, Joseph Huber, Sr., in 1855 came to Los +Angeles from Kentucky, hoping to improve his health; and when the +other members of his family, consisting of his wife and children, +Caroline, Emeline, Edward and Joseph, followed him here, in 1859, by +way of New York and the Isthmus, they found him settled as a +vineyardist, occupying the Foster property running from Alameda Street +to the river, in a section between Second and Sixth streets. The +advent of a group of young people, so well qualified to add to what +has truthfully been described by old-time Angeleños as our family +circle, was hailed with a great deal of interest and satisfaction. In +time, Miss Emeline Huber was married to O. W. Childs, and Miss +Caroline was wedded to Dr. Frederick Preston Howard, a druggist who, +more than forty years ago, bought out Theodore Wollweber, selling the +business back to the latter a few years later. The prominence of this +family made it comparatively easy for Joseph Huber, Jr., in 1865, to +secure the nomination and be elected County Treasurer, succeeding M. +Kremer, who had served six years. Huber, Sr., died about the middle +sixties. Mrs. Huber lived to be eighty-three years old. + +José de Rúbio had at least two vineyards when I came--one on Alameda +Street, south of Wolfskill's and not far from Coronel's, and one on +the east side of the river. Rúbio came here very early in the +century, after having married Juana, a daughter of Juan María Miron, a +well-known sea captain, and built three adobe houses. The first of +these was on the site of the present home of William H. Workman, on +Boyle Heights; the second was near what was later the corner of +Alameda and Eighth streets, and the third was on Alameda Street near +the present Vernon Avenue. One of his ranches was known as "Rúbio's," +and there many a barbecue was celebrated. In 1859, Rúbio leased the +Sepúlveda Landing, at San Pedro, and commenced to haul freight, to and +fro. Señor and Señora Rúbio[16] had twenty-five children, of whom five +are now living. Another Los Angeles vineyardist who lived near the +river when I came was a Frenchman named Clemente. + +Julius Weyse also had a vineyard, living on what is now Eighth Street +near San Pedro. A son, H. G. Weyse, has distinguished himself as an +attorney and has served in the Legislature; another, Otto G., married +the widow of Edward Naud, while a third son, Rudolf G., married a +daughter of H. D. Barrows. + +The Reyes family was prominent here; a daughter married William +Nordholt. Ysidro had a vineyard on Washington Street; and during one +of the epidemics, he died of smallpox. His brother, Pablo, was a +rancher. + +While on the subject of vineyards, I may describe the method by which +wine was made here in the early days and the part taken in the +industry by the Indians, who always interested and astounded me. +Stripped to the skin, and wearing only loin-cloths, they tramped with +ceaseless tread from morn till night, pressing from the luscious fruit +of the vineyard the juice so soon to ferment into wine. The grapes +were placed in elevated vats from which the liquid ran into other +connecting vessels; and the process exhaled a stale acidity, scenting +the surrounding air. These Indians were employed in the early fall, +the season of the year when wine is made and when the thermometer as a +rule, in Southern California, reaches its highest point; and this +temperature coupled with incessant toil caused the perspiration to +drip from their swarthy bodies into the wine product, the sight of +which in no wise increased my appetite for California wine. + +A staple article of food for the Indians in 1856, by the way, was the +acorn. The crop that year, however, was very short; and streams having +also failed, in many instances, to yield the food usually taken from +them, the tribes were in a distressed condition. Such were the +aborigines' straits, in fact, that _rancheros_ were warned of the +danger, then greater than ever, from Indian depredations on stock. + +In telling of the Sisters of Charity, I have forgotten to add that, +after settling here, they sent to New York for a portable house, which +they shipped to Los Angeles by way of Cape Horn. In due time, the +house arrived; but imagine their vexation on discovering that, +although the parts were supposed to have been marked so that they +might easily be joined together, no one here could do the work. In the +end, the Sisters were compelled to send East for a carpenter who, +after a long interval, arrived and finished the house. + +Soon after the organization of a Masonic lodge here, in 1854, many of +my friends joined, and among them my brother, J. P. Newmark, who was +admitted on February 26th, 1855, on which occasion J. H. Stuart was +the Secretary; and through their participation in the celebration of +St. John's Day (the twenty-fourth of June,) I was seized with a desire +to join the order. This I did at the end of 1856, becoming a member of +Los Angeles Lodge No. 42, whose meetings were held over Potter's store +on Main Street. Worshipful Master Thomas Foster initiated me, and on +January 22d, 1857, Worshipful Master Jacob Elias officiating, I took +the third degree. I am, therefore, in all probability, the oldest +living member of this now venerable Masonic organization. + +FOOTNOTE: + +[16] Señora de Rúbio survived her husband many years, dying on October +27th, 1914, at the age of one hundred and seven, after residing in Los +Angeles ninety-four years. + + + + +CHAPTER XV + +SHERIFF BARTON AND THE _BANDIDOS_ + +1857 + + +In the beginning of 1857, we had a more serious earthquake than any in +recent years. At half-past eight o'clock on the morning of January +9th, a tremor shook the earth from North to South; the first shocks +being light, the quake grew in power until houses were deserted, men, +women and children sought refuge in the streets, and horses and cattle +broke loose in wild alarm. For perhaps two, or two and a half minutes, +the _temblor_ continued and much damage was done. Los Angeles felt the +disturbance far less than many other places, although five to six +shocks were noted and twenty times during the week people were +frightened from their homes; at Temple's _rancho_ and at Fort Tejón +great rents were opened in the earth and then closed again, piling up +a heap or dune of finely-powdered stone and dirt. Large trees were +uprooted and hurled down the hillsides; and tumbling after them went +the cattle. Many officers, including Colonel B. L. Beall--well known +in Los Angeles social circles--barely escaped from the barracks with +their lives; and until the cracked adobes could be repaired, officers +and soldiers lived in tents. It was at this time, too, that a +so-called tidal wave almost engulfed the _Sea Bird_, plying between +San Pedro and San Francisco, as she was entering the Golden Gate. +Under the splendid seamanship of Captain Salisbury Haley, however, his +little ship weathered the wave, and he was able later to report her +awful experience to the scientific world. + +This year also proved a dry season; and, consequently, times became +very bad. With two periods of adversity, even the richest of the +cattle-kings felt the pinch, and many began to part with their lands +in order to secure the relief needed to tide them over. The effects of +drought continued until 1858, although some good influences improved +business conditions. + +Due to glowing accounts of the prospects for conquest and fortune +given out by Henry A. Crabb, a Stockton lawyer who married a Spanish +woman with relatives in Sonora, a hundred or more filibusters gathered +in Los Angeles, in January, to meet Crabb at San Pedro, when he +arrived from the North on the steamer _Sea Bird_. They strutted about +the streets here, displaying rifles and revolvers; and this would seem +to have been enough to prevent their departure for Sonita, a little +town a hundred miles beyond Yuma, to which they finally tramped. The +filibusters were permitted to leave, however, and they invaded the +foreign soil; but Crabb made a mess of the undertaking, even failing +in blowing up a little church he attacked; and those not killed in the +skirmish were soon surrounded and taken prisoners. The next morning, +Crabb and some others who had paraded so ostentatiously while here, +were tied to trees or posts, and summarily executed. Crabb's body was +riddled with a hundred bullets and his head cut off and sent back in +_mescal_; only one of the party was spared--Charley Evans, a lad of +fifteen years, who worked his way to Los Angeles and was connected +with a somewhat similar invasion a while later. + +In January, also, when threats were made against the white population +of Southern California, Mrs. Griffin, the wife of Dr. J. S. Griffin, +came running, in all excitement, to the home of Joseph Newmark, and +told the members of the family to lock all their doors and bolt their +windows, as it was reported that some of the outlaws were on their way +to Los Angeles, to murder the white people. As soon as possible, the +ladies of the Griffin, Nichols, Foy, Mallard, Workman, Newmark and +other families were brought together for greater safety in Armory +Hall, on Spring Street near Second, while the men took their places +in line with the other citizens to patrol the hills and streets. + +A still vivid impression of this startling episode recalls an +Englishman, a Dr. Carter, who arrived here some three years before. He +lived on the east side of Main Street near First, where the McDonald +Block now stands; and while not prominent in his profession, he +associated with some estimable families. When others were volunteering +for sentry-work or to fight, the Doctor very gallantly offered his +services as a Committee of One to care for the ladies--far from the +firing line! + +On hearing of these threats by native _bandidos_, James R. Barton, +formerly a volunteer under General S. W. Kearny and then Sheriff, at +once investigated the rumors; and the truth of the reports being +verified, our small and exposed community was seized with terror. + +A large band of Mexican outlaws, led by Pancho Daniel, a convict who +had escaped from San Quentin prison, and including Luciano Tapía and +Juan Flores, on January 22d had killed a German storekeeper named +George W. Pflugardt, in San Juan Capistrano, while he was preparing +his evening meal; and after having placed his body on the table, they +sat around and ate what the poor victim had provided for himself. On +the same occasion, these outlaws plundered the stores of Manuel +Garcia, Henry Charles and Miguel Kragevsky or Kraszewski; the last +named escaping by hiding under a lot of wash in a large +clothes-basket. When the news of this murder reached Los Angeles, +excitement rose to fever-heat and we prepared for something more than +defense. + +Jim Barton, accompanied by William H. Little and Charles K. Baker, +both constables, Charles F. Daley, an early blacksmith here, Alfred +Hardy and Frank Alexander--all volunteers--left that evening for San +Juan Capistrano, to capture the murderers, and soon arrived at the San +Joaquín Ranch, about eighteen miles from San Juan. There Don José +Andrés Sepúlveda told Barton of a trap set for him, and that the +robbers outnumbered his _posse_, two to one; and urged him to send +back to Los Angeles for more volunteers. Brave but reckless Barton, +however, persisted in pushing on the next day, and so encountered some +of the marauders in Santiago Canyon. Barton, Baker, Little and Daley +were killed; while Hardy and Alexander escaped. + +When Los Angeles was apprised of this second tragedy, the frenzy was +indescribable, and steps were taken toward the formation of both a +Committee of Safety and a Vigilance Committee--the latter to avenge +the foul deed and to bring in the culprits. In meeting this emergency, +the El Monte boys, as usual, took an active part. The city was placed +under martial law, and Dr. John S. Griffin was put in charge of the +local defenses. Suspicious houses, thought to be headquarters for +robbers and thieves, were searched; and forty or fifty persons were +arrested. The State Legislature was appealed to and at once voted +financial aid. + +Although the Committee of Safety had the assistance of special foot +police in guarding the city, the citizens made a requisition on Fort +Tejón, and fifty soldiers were sent from that post to help pursue the +band. Troops from San Diego, with good horses and plenty of +provisions, were also placed at the disposition of the Los Angeles +authorities. Companies of mounted Rangers were made up to scour the +country, American, German and French citizens vying with one another +for the honor of risking their lives; one such company being formed at +El Monte, and another at San Bernardino. There were also two +detachments of native Californians; but many Sonorans and Mexicans +from other States, either from sympathy or fear, aided the murdering +robbers and so made their pursuit doubly difficult. However, the +outlaws were pursued far into the mountains; and although the first +party sent out returned without effecting anything (reporting that the +desperadoes were not far from San Juan and that the horses of the +pursuers had given out) practically all of the band, as will be seen, +were eventually captured. + +Not only were vigorous measures taken to apprehend and punish the +murderers, but provision was made to rescue the bodies of the slain, +and to give them decent and honorable burial. The next morning, after +nearly one hundred mounted and armed men had set out to track the +fugitives, another party, also on horseback, left to escort several +wagons filled with coffins, in which they hoped to bring back the +bodies of Sheriff Barton and his comrades. In this effort, the posse +succeeded; and when the remains were received in Los Angeles on Sunday +about noon, the city at once went into mourning. All business was +suspended, and the impressive burial ceremonies, conducted on Monday, +were attended by the citizens _en masse_. Oddly enough, there was not +a Protestant clergyman in town at the time; but the Masonic Order took +the matter in hand and performed their rites over those who were +Masons, and even paid their respects, with a portion of the ritual, to +the non-Masonic dead. + +General Andrés Pico, with a company of native mounted Californians, +who left immediately after the funeral, was especially prominent in +running down the outlaws, thus again displaying his natural gift of +leadership; and others fitted themselves out and followed as soon as +they could. General Pico knew both land and people; and on capturing +Silvas and Ardillero, two of the worst of the _bandidos_, after a hard +resistance, he straightway hung them to trees, at the very spot where +they had tried to assassinate him and his companions. + +In the pursuit of the murderers, James Thompson (successor, in the +following January, to the murdered Sheriff Getman) led a company of +horsemen toward the Tejunga; and at the Simi Pass, high upon the +rocks, he stationed United States soldiers as a lookout. Little San +Gabriel, in which J. F. Burns, as Deputy Sheriff, was on the watch, +also made its contribution to the restoration of order and peace; for +some of its people captured and executed three or four of Daniels's +and Flores's band. Flores was caught on the top of a peak in the +Santiago range; all in all, some fifty-two culprits were brought to +Los Angeles and lodged in jail; and of that number eleven were lynched +or legally hung. + +When the Vigilance Committee had jailed a suspected murderer, the +people were called to sit in judgment. We met near the veranda of the +Montgomery, and Judge Jonathan R. Scott having been made Chairman, a +regular order of procedure, extra-legal though it was, was followed; +after announcing the capture, and naming the criminal, the Judge +called upon the crowd to determine the prisoner's fate. Thereupon some +one would shout: "_Hang him!_" Scott would then put the question +somewhat after the following formula: "Gentlemen, you have heard the +motion; all those in favor of hanging So-and-So, will signify by +saying, Aye!" + +And the citizens present unanimously answered, _Aye!_ + +Having thus expressed their will, the assemblage proceeded to the +jail, a low, adobe building behind the little Municipal and County +structure, and easily subdued the jailer, Frank J. Carpenter, whose +daughter, Josephine, became Frank Burns's second wife. The prisoner +was then secured, taken from his cell, escorted to Fort Hill--a rise +of ground behind the jail--where a temporary gallows had been +constructed, and promptly despatched; and after each of the first +batch of culprits had there successively paid the penalty for his +crime, the avengers quietly dispersed to their homes to await the +capture and dragging in of more cutthroats. + +Among those condemned by vote at a public meeting in the way I have +described, was Juan Flores, who was hanged on February 14th, 1857, +well up on Fort Hill, in sight of such a throng that it is hardly too +much to say that practically every man, woman and child in the pueblo +was present, not to mention many people drawn by curiosity from +various parts of the State who had flocked into town. Flores was but +twenty-one years of age; yet, the year previous he had been sent to +prison for horse-stealing. At the same time that Flores was executed, +Miguel Blanco, who had stabbed the militiaman, Captain W. W. Twist, in +order to rob him of a thousand dollars, was also hanged. + +Espinosa and Lopez, two members of the robber band, for a while eluded +their pursuers. At San Buenaventura, however, they were caught, and on +the following morning, Espinosa was hung. Lopez again escaped; and it +was not until February 16th that he was finally recaptured and +despatched to other realms. + +Two days after Juan Flores was sent to a warmer clime, Luciano Tapía +and Thomas King were executed. Tapía's case was rather regrettable, +for he had been a respectable laborer at San Luis Obispo until Flores, +meeting him, persuaded him to abandon honest work. Tapía came to Los +Angeles, joined the robber band and was one of those who helped to +kill Sheriff Barton. + +In 1857, the Sisters of Charity founded the Los Angeles Infirmary, the +first regular hospital in the city, with Sister Ana, for years well +known here, as Sister Superior. For a while, temporary quarters were +taken in the house long occupied by Don José María Aguilar and family, +which property the Sisters soon purchased; but the next year they +bought some land from Don Luis Arenas, adjoining Don José Andrés +Sepúlveda's, and were thus enabled to enlarge the hospital. Their +service being the best, in time they were enabled to acquire a +good-sized, two-story building of brick, in the upper part of the +city; and there their patients enjoyed the refreshing and +health-restoring environment of garden and orchard. + +It was not until this year that, on the corner of Alameda and Bath +streets, Oscar Macy, City Treasurer in 1887-88, opened the first +public bath house, having built a water-wheel with small cans attached +to the paddles, to dip water up from the Alameda _zanja_, as a medium +for supplying his tank. He provided hot water as well as cold. Oscar +charged fifty cents a bath, and furnished soap and towels. + +In 1857, the steamship _Senator_ left San Francisco on the fifth and +twentieth of each month and so continued until the people wanted a +steamer at least once every ten days. + +Despite the inconvenience and expense of obtaining water for the home, +it was not until February 24th that Judge W. G. Dryden--who, with a +man named McFadden, had established the nucleus of a system--was +granted a franchise to distribute water from his land, and to build a +water-wheel in the _zanja madre_. The Dryden, formerly known as the +Ábila Springs and later the source of the Beaudry supply, were near +the site selected for the San Fernando Street Railway Station; and +from these springs water was conveyed by a _zanja_ to the Plaza. +There, in the center, a brick tank, perhaps ten feet square and +fifteen feet high, was constructed; and this was filled by means of +pumps, while from the tank wooden pipes distributed water to the +consumer. + +So infrequently did we receive intelligence from the remoter parts of +the world throughout the fifties that sometimes a report, especially +if apparently authentic, when finally it reached here, created real +excitement. I recall, more or less vividly, the arrival of the stages +from the _Senator_, late in March, and the stir made when the news was +passed from mouth to mouth that Livingstone, the explorer, had at last +been heard from in far-off and unknown Africa. + +Los Angeles schools were then open only part of the year, the School +Board being compelled, in the spring, to close them for want of money. +William Wolfskill, however, rough pioneer though he was, came to the +Board's rescue. He was widely known as an advocate of popular +education, having, as I have said, his own private teachers; and to +his lasting honor, he gave the Board sufficient funds to make possible +the reopening of one of the schools. + +In 1857, I again revisited San Francisco. During the four years since +my first visit a complete metamorphosis had taken place. Tents and +small frame structures were being largely replaced with fine buildings +of brick and stone; many of the sand dunes had succumbed to the march +of improvement; gardens were much more numerous, and the uneven +character of streets and sidewalks had been wonderfully improved. In a +word, the spirit of Western progress was asserting itself, and the +city by the Golden Gate was taking on a decidedly metropolitan +appearance. + +Notwithstanding various attempts at citrus culture in Southern +California, some time elapsed before there was much of an orange or +lemon industry in this vicinity. In 1854, a Dr. Halsey started an +orange and lime nursery, on the Rowland place, which he soon sold to +William Wolfskill, for four thousand dollars; and in April, 1857, when +there were not many more than a hundred orange trees bearing fruit in +the whole county, Wolfskill planted several thousand and so +established what was to be, for that time, the largest orange orchard +in the United States. He had thrown away a good many of the lemon +trees received from Halsey, because they were frost-bitten; but he +still had some lemon, orange and olive trees left. Later, under the +more scientific care of his son, Joseph Wolfskill, who extended the +original Wolfskill grove, this orchard was made to yield very large +crops. + +In 1857, a group of Germans living in San Francisco bought twelve +hundred acres of waste, sandy land, at two dollars an acre, from Don +Pacífico Onteveras, and on it started the town of Anaheim--a name +composed of the Spanish _Ana_, from Santa Ana, and the German _Heim_, +for home; and this was the first settlement in the county founded +after my arrival. This land formed a block about one and a quarter +miles square, some three miles from the Santa Ana River, and five +miles from the residence of Don Bernardo Yorba, from whom the company +received special privileges. A. Langenberger, a German, who married +Yorba's daughter, was probably one of the originators of the Anaheim +plan; at any rate, his influence with his father-in-law was of value +to his friends in completing the deal. There were fifty shareholders, +who paid seven hundred and fifty dollars each, with an Executive +Council composed of Otmar Caler, President; G. Charles Kohler, +Vice-President; Cyrus Beythien, Treasurer; and John Fischer, +Secretary; while John Fröhling, R. Emerson, Felix Bachman, who was a +kind of Sub-treasurer, and Louis Jazyinsky, made up the Los Angeles +Auditing Committee. George Hansen, afterward the colony's +Superintendent, surveyed the tract and laid it out in fifty +twenty-acre lots, with streets and a public park; around it a live +fence of some forty to fifty thousand willow cuttings, placed at +intervals of a couple of feet, was planted. A main canal, six to seven +miles long, with a fall of fifteen to twenty feet, brought abundant +water from the Santa Ana River, while some three hundred and fifty +miles of lateral ditches distributed the water to the lots. On each +lot, some eight or ten thousand grape vines were set out, the first as +early as January, 1858. On December 15th, 1859, the stockholders came +south to settle on their partially-cultivated land; and although but +one among the entire number knew anything about wine-making, the dream +of the projectors--to establish there the largest vineyard in the +world--bade fair to come true. The colonists were quite a curious +mixture--two or three carpenters, four blacksmiths, three watchmakers, +a brewer, an engraver, a shoemaker, a poet, a miller, a bookbinder, +two or three merchants, a hatter and a musician; but being mostly of +sturdy, industrious German stock, they soon formed such a prosperous +and important little community that, by 1876, the settlement had grown +to nearly two thousand people. A peculiar plan was adopted for +investment, sale and compensation: each stockholder paid the same +price at the beginning, and later all drew for the lots, the +apportionment being left to chance; but since the pieces of land were +conceded to have dissimilar values, those securing the better lots +equalized in cash with their less lucky associates. Soon after 1860, +when Langenberger had erected the first hotel there, Anaheim took a +leading place in the production of grapes and wine; and this position +of honor it kept until, in 1888, a strange disease suddenly attacked +and, within a single year, killed all the vines, after which the +cultivation of oranges and walnuts was undertaken. Kohler and Fröhling +had wineries in both San Francisco and Los Angeles, the latter being +adjacent to the present corner of Central Avenue and Seventh Street; +and this firm purchased most of Anaheim's grape crop, although some +vineyard owners made their own wine. Morris L. Goodman, by the way, +was here at an early period, and was one of the first settlers of +Anaheim. + +Hermann Heinsch, a native of Prussia, arrived in Los Angeles in 1857 +and soon after engaged in the harness and saddlery business. On March +8th, 1863, he was married to Mary Haap. Having become proficient at +German schools in both music and languages, Heinsch lent his time and +efforts to the organization and drill of Germans here, and contributed +much to the success of both the Teutonia and the Turnverein. In 1869, +the Heinsch Building was erected at the corner of Commercial and Los +Angeles streets; and as late as 1876 this was a shopping district, a +Mrs. T. J. Baker having a dressmaking establishment there. After a +prosperous career, Heinsch died on January 13th, 1883; his wife +followed him on April 14th, 1906. R. C. Heinsch, a son, survives them. + +Major Walter Harris Harvey, a native of Georgia once a cadet at West +Point, but dismissed for his pranks (who about the middle of the +fifties married Eleanor, eldest full sister of John G. Downey, and +became the father of J. Downey Harvey, now living in San Francisco), +settled in California shortly after the Mexican War. During the first +week in May, 1857, or some four years before he died, Major Harvey +arrived from Washington with an appointment as Register of the Land +Office, in place of H. P. Dorsey. At the same time, Don Agustin Olvera +was appointed Receiver, in lieu of General Andrés Pico. These and +other rotations in office were due, of course, to national +administration changes, President Buchanan having recently been +inaugurated. + +One of the interesting legal inquiries of the fifties was conducted in +1857 when, in the District Court here, António María Lugo, crowned +with the white of seventy-six winters, testified, at a hearing to +establish certain claims to land, as to what he knew of old _ranchos_ +hereabouts, recalling many details of the pueblo and incidents as far +back as 1785. He had seen the San Rafael Ranch, for example, in 1790, +and he had also roamed, as a young man, over the still older Dominguez +and Nietos hills. + +Charles Henry Forbes, who was born at the Mission San José, came to +Los Angeles County in 1857 and, though but twenty-two years old, was +engaged by Don Abel Stearns to superintend his various _ranchos_, +becoming Stearns's business manager in 1866, with a small office on +the ground-floor of the Arcadia Block. In 1864, Forbes married Doña +Luisa Olvera, daughter of Judge Agustin Olvera, and a graduate of the +Sisters' school. On the death of Don Abel, in 1871, Forbes settled up +Stearns's large estate, retaining his professional association with +Doña Arcadia, after her marriage to Colonel Baker, and even until he +died in May, 1894. + +As I have intimated, the principal industry throughout Los Angeles +County, and indeed throughout Southern California, up to the sixties, +was the raising of cattle and horses--an undertaking favored by a +people particularly fond of leisure and knowing little of the latent +possibilities in the land; so that this entire area of magnificent +soil supported herds which provided the whole population in turn, +directly or indirectly, with a livelihood. The live stock subsisted +upon the grass growing wild all over the county, and the prosperity of +Southern California therefore depended entirely upon the season's +rainfall. This was true to a far greater extent than one might +suppose, for water-development had received no attention outside of +Los Angeles. If the rainfall was sufficient to produce feed, dealers +came from the North and purchased our stock, and everybody thrived; +if, on the other hand, the season was dry, cattle and horses died and +the public's pocket-book shrank to very unpretentious dimensions. As +an incident in even a much later period than that which I here have in +mind, I can distinctly remember that I would rise three or four times +during a single meal to see if the overhanging clouds had yet begun to +give that rain which they had seemed to promise, and which was so +vital to our prosperity. + +As for rain, I am reminded that every newspaper in those days devoted +much space to weather reports or, rather, to gossip about the weather +at other points along the Coast, as well as to the consequent +prospects here. The weather was the one determining factor in the +problem of a successful or a disastrous season, and became a very +important theme when ranchers and others congregated at our store. + +And here I may mention, _à propos_ of this matter of rainfall and its +general effects, that there were millions of ground-squirrels all over +this country that shared with other animals the ups and downs of the +season. When there was plenty of rain, these squirrels fattened and +multiplied; but when evil days came, they sickened, starved and +perished. On the other hand, great overflows, due to heavy rainfalls, +drowned many of these troublesome little rodents. + +The raising of sheep had not yet developed any importance at the time +of my arrival; most of the mutton then consumed in Los Angeles coming +from Santa Cruz Island, in the Santa Bárbara Channel, though some was +brought from San Clemente and Santa Catalina islands. On the latter, +there was a herd of from eight to ten thousand sheep in which Oscar +Macy later acquired an interest; and L. Harris, father-in-law of H. W. +Frank, the well- and favorably-known President and member of the Board +of Education, also had extensive herds there. They ran wild and needed +very little care, and only semi-yearly visits were made to look after +the shearing, packing and shipping of the wool. Santa Cruz Island had +much larger herds, and steamers running to and from San Francisco +often stopped there to take on sheep and sheep-products. + +Santa Catalina Island, for years the property of Don José María +Covarrúbias--and later of the eccentric San Francisco pioneer James +Lick, who crossed the plains in the same party with the Lanfranco +brothers and tried to induce them to settle in the North--was not far +from San Clemente; and there, throughout the extent of her hills and +vales, roamed herd after herd of wild goats. Early seafarers, I +believe it has been suggested, accustomed to carry goats on their +sailing vessels, for a supply of milk, probably deposited some of the +animals on Catalina; but however that may be, hunting parties to this +day explore the mountains in search of them. + +Considering, therefore, the small number of sheep here about 1853, it +is not uninteresting to note that, according to old records of San +Gabriel for the winter of 1828-29, there were then at the Mission no +less than fifteen thousand sheep; while in 1858, on the other hand, +according to fairly accurate reports, there were fully twenty thousand +sheep in Los Angeles County. Two years later, the number had doubled. + +George Carson, a New Yorker who came here in 1852, and after whom +Carson Station is named, was one of the first to engage in the sheep +industry. Soon after he arrived, he went into the livery business, to +which he gave attention even when in partnership successively with +Sanford, Dean and Hicks in the hardware business, on Commercial +Street. On July 30th, 1857, Carson married Doña Victoria, a daughter +of Manuel Dominguez; but it was not until 1864 that, having sold out +his two business interests (the livery to George Butler and the +hardware to his partner), he moved to the ranch of his father-in-law, +where he continued to live, assisting Dominguez with the management of +his great property. Some years later, Carson bought four or five +hundred acres of land adjoining the Dominguez acres and turned his +attention to sheep. Later still, he became interested in the +development of thoroughbred cattle and horses, but continued to help +his father-in-law in the directing of his ranch. When rain favored the +land, Carson, in common with his neighbors, amassed wealth; but during +dry years he suffered disappointment and loss, and on one occasion was +forced to take his flocks, then consisting of ten thousand sheep, to +the mountains, where he lost all but a thousand head. It cost him ten +thousand dollars to save the latter, which amount far exceeded their +value. In this movement of stock, he took with him, as his lieutenant, +a young Mexican named Martin Cruz whom he had brought up on the +_rancho_. Carson was one of my cronies, while I was still young and +single; and we remained warm friends until he died. + +Almost indescribable excitement followed the substantiated reports, +received in the fall of 1857, that a train of emigrants from Missouri +and Arkansas, on their way to California, had been set upon by +Indians, near Mountain Meadow, Utah, on September 7th, and that +thirty-six members of the party had been brutally killed. Particularly +were the Gentiles of the Southwest stirred up when it was learned that +the assault had been planned and carried through by one Lee, a Mormon, +whose act sprang rather from the frenzy of a madman than from the +deliberation of a well-balanced mind. The attitude of Brigham Young +toward the United States Government, at that time, and his alleged +threat to "turn the Indians loose" upon the whites, added color to the +assertion that Young's followers were guilty of the massacre; but +fuller investigation has absolved the Mormons, I believe, as a +society, from any complicity in the awful affair. Some years later the +two Oatman girls were rescued from the Indians (by whom they had been +tattooed), and for a while they stayed at Ira Thompson's, where I saw +them. + +In 1857, J. G. Nichols was reëlected Mayor of Los Angeles, and began +several improvements he had previously advocated, especially the +irrigating of the plain below the city. By August 2d, _Zanja_ No. 2 +was completed; and this brought about the building of the Aliso Mill +and the further cultivation of much excellent land. + +One of the passengers that left San Francisco with me for San Pedro on +October 18th, 1853, who later became a successful citizen of Southern +California, was Edward N. McDonald, a native of New York State. We had +sailed from New York together, and together had finished the long +journey to the Pacific Coast, after which I lost track of him. +McDonald had intended proceeding farther south, and I was surprised at +meeting him on the street, some weeks after my arrival, in Los +Angeles. Reaching San Pedro, he contracted to enter the service of +Alexander & Banning, and remained with Banning for several years, +until he formed a partnership with John O. Wheeler's brother, who +later went to Japan. McDonald, subsequently raised sheep on a large +scale and acquired much ranch property; and in 1876, he built the +block on Main Street bearing his name. Sixteen years later, he erected +another structure, opposite the first one. When McDonald died at +Wilmington, on June 10th, 1899, he left his wife an estate valued at +about one hundred and sixty thousand dollars which must have increased +in value, since then, many fold. + +N. A. Potter, a Rhode Islander, came to Los Angeles in 1855, bringing +with him a stock of Yankee goods and opening a store; and two years +later he bought a two-story brick building on Main Street, opposite +the Bella Union. Louis Jazynsky was a partner with Potter, for a +while, under the firm name of Potter & Company; but later Jazynsky +left Los Angeles for San Francisco. Potter died here in 1868. + +Possibly the first instance of an Angeleño proffering a gift to the +President of the United States--and that, too, of something +characteristic of this productive soil and climate--was when Henry D. +Barrows, in September, called on President Buchanan, in Washington +and, on behalf of William Wolfskill, Don Manuel Requena and himself, +gave the Chief Executive some California fruit and wine. + +I have before me a Ledger of the year 1857; it is a medium-sized +volume bound in leather, and on the outside cover is inscribed, in the +bold, old-fashioned handwriting of fifty-odd years ago, the simple +legend, + + NEWMARK, KREMER & COMPANY + +Each page is headed with the name of some still-remembered worthy of +that distant day who was a customer of the old firm; and in 1857, a +customer was always a friend. According to the method of that period +the accounts are closed, not with balancing entries and red lines but, +in the blackest of black ink, with the good, straightforward and +positive inscription, _Settled_. + +The perusal of this old book carries me back over the vanished years. +As the skull in the hand of the ancient monk, so does this antiquated +volume recall to me how transitory is this life and all its affairs. A +few remain to tell a younger generation the story of the early days; +but the majority, even as in 1857 they carefully balanced their scores +in this old Ledger, have now closed their accounts in the great Book +of Life. They have settled with their heaviest Creditor; they have +gone before Him to render their last account. With few or no +exceptions, they were a manly, sterling race, and I have no doubt that +He found their assets far greater than their liabilities. + + + + +CHAPTER XVI + +MARRIAGE--THE BUTTERFIELD STAGES + +1858 + + +In January, 1858, I engaged, in the sheep business. After some +investigation, I selected and purchased for an insignificant sum, just +west of the present Hollenbeck Home on Boyle Avenue, a convenient +site, which consisted of twenty acres of land, through which a ditch +conducted water to Don Felipe Lugo's San António _rancho_--a flow +quite sufficient, at the time, for my herd. These sheep I pastured on +adjacent lands belonging to the City; and as others often did the +same, no one said me Nay. Everything progressed beautifully until the +first of May, when the ditch ran dry. Upon making inquiry, I learned +that the City had permitted Lugo to dig a private ditch across this +twenty-acre tract to his ranch, and to use what water he needed during +the rainy season; but that in May, when the authorities resumed their +irrigation service, the privilege was withdrawn. I was thus deprived +of water for the sheep. + +Despite the fact that there was an adobe on the land, I could not +dispose of the property at any price. One day a half-breed known as +the Chicken Thief called on me and offered a dozen chickens for the +adobe, but--not a chicken for the land! Stealing chickens was this +man's profession; and I suppose that he offered me the medium of +exchange he was most accustomed to have about him. + +Sheriff William C. Getman had been warned, in the tragic days of 1858, +to look out for a maniac named Reed; but almost courting such an +emergency, Getman (once a dashing Lieutenant of the Rangers and +bearing grapeshot wounds from his participation in the Siege of +Mexico) went, on the seventh of January, with Francis Baker to a +pawnbroker, whose establishment, near Los Angeles and Aliso streets, +was popularly known as the Monte Pio. There the officers found Reed +locked and barricaded in a room; and while the Sheriff was endeavoring +to force an entrance, Reed suddenly threw open the door, ran out and, +to the dismay of myself and many others gathered to witness the +arrest, pulled a pistol from his pocket, discharged the weapon, and +Getman dropped on the spot. The maniac then retreated into the +pawnbroker's from which he fired at the crowd. Deputy Baker--later +assistant to Marshal Warren, who was shot by Dye--finally killed the +desperado, but not before Reed had fired twenty to thirty shots, four +or five of which passed through Baker's clothing. When the excited +crowd broke into the shop, it was found that the madman had been armed +with two derringers, two revolvers and a bowie knife--a convenient +little arsenal which he had taken from the money-lender's stock. The +news of the affray spread rapidly through the town and everywhere +created great regret. Baker, who had sailed around the Horn a couple +of years before I arrived, died on May 17th, 1899, after having been +City Marshal and Tax Collector. + +Such trouble with men inclined to use firearms too freely was not +confined to maniacs or those bent on revenge or robbery. On one +occasion, for example, about 1858, while passing along the street I +observed Gabriel Allen, known among his intimates as Gabe Allen, a +veteran of the War with Mexico--and some years later a Supervisor--on +one of his jollifications, with Sheriff Getman following close at his +heels. Having arrived in front of a building, Gabe suddenly raised his +gun and aimed at a carpenter who was at work on the roof. Getman +promptly knocked Allen down; whereupon the latter said, "You've got +me, Billy!" Allen's only purpose, it appeared, was to take a shot at +the innocent stranger and thus test his marksmanship. + +This Gabe Allen was really a notorious character, though not +altogether bad. When sober, he was a peaceable man; but when on a +spree, he was decidedly warlike and on such occasions always "shot up +the town." While on one of these jamborees, for example, he was heard +to say, "I'll shoot, if I only kill six of them!" In later life, +however, Allen married a Mexican lady who seems to have had a +mollifying influence; and thereafter he lived at peace with the world. + +During the changing half-century or more of which I write, Los Angeles +has witnessed many exciting street scenes, but it is doubtful if any +exhibition here ever called to doors, windows and the dusty streets a +greater percentage of the entire population than that of the +Government camels driven through the town on January 8th, 1858, under +the martial and spectacular command of Ned, otherwise Lieutenant, and +later General and Ambassador E. F. Beale, and the forbear of the +so-called hundred million dollar McLean baby; the same Lieutenant +Beale who opened up Beale's Route from the Rio Grande to Fort Tejón. +The camels had just come in from the fort, having traveled forty or +more miles a day across the desert, to be loaded with military stores +and provisions. As early as the beginning of the fifties, Jefferson +Davis, then in Congress, had advocated, but without success, the +appropriation of thirty thousand dollars for the purchase of such +animals, believing that they could be used on the overland routes and +would prove especially serviceable in desert regions; and when Davis, +in 1854, as Secretary of War, secured the appropriation for which he +had so long contended, he despatched American army officers to Egypt +and Arabia to make the purchase. Some seventy or seventy-five camels +were obtained and transported to Texas by the storeship _Supply_; and +in the Lone Star State the herd was divided into two parts, half being +sent to the Gadsden Purchase, afterward Arizona, and half to +Albuquerque. In a short time, the second division was put in charge of +Lieutenant Beale who was assisted by native camel-drivers brought from +abroad. Among these was Philip Tedro, or Hi Jolly--who had been picked +up by Commodore Dave Porter--and Greek George, years afterward host +to bandit Vasquez; and camels and drivers made several trips back and +forth across the Southwest country. Once headquartered at Fort Tejón, +they came to Los Angeles every few weeks for provisions; each time +creating no little excitement among the adult population and affording +much amusement, as they passed along the streets, to the small boy. + +To return to Pancho Daniel, the escaped leader of the Barton +murderers. He was heard from occasionally, as foraging north toward +San Luis Obispo, and was finally captured, after repeated efforts to +entrap and round him up, by Sheriff Murphy, on January 19th, 1858, +while hiding in a haystack near San José. When he was brought to Los +Angeles, he was jailed, and then released on bail. Finally, Daniel's +lawyers secured for him a change of venue to Santa Bárbara; and this +was the last abuse that led the public again to administer a little +law of its own. Early on the morning of November 30th, Pancho's body +was found hanging by the neck at the gateway to the County Jail yard, +a handful of men having overpowered the keeper, secured the key and +the prisoner, and sent him on a journey with a different destination +from Santa Bárbara. + +On February 25th, fire started in Childs & Hicks's store, on Los +Angeles Street, and threatened both the Bella Union and _El Palacio_, +then the residence of Don Abel Stearns. The brick in the building of +Felix Bachman & Company and the volunteer bucket-brigade prevented a +general conflagration. Property worth thousands of dollars was +destroyed, Bachman & Company alone carrying insurance. The +conflagration demonstrated the need of a fire engine, and a +subscription was started to get one. + +Weeks later workmen, rummaging among the _débris_, found five thousand +dollars in gold, which discovery produced no little excitement. Childs +claimed the money as his, saying that it had been stolen from him by a +thieving clerk; but the workmen, undisturbed by law, kept the +treasure. + +A new four-page weekly newspaper appeared on March 24th, bearing the +suggestive title, the _Southern Vineyard_, and the name of Colonel J. +J. Warner, as editor. By December, it had become a semi-weekly. +Originally Democratic, it now favored the Union party; it was edited +with ability, but died on June 8th, 1860. + +On March 24th, I married Sarah, second daughter of Joseph Newmark, to +whom I had been engaged since 1856. She was born on January 9th, 1841, +and had come to live in Los Angeles in 1854. The ceremony, performed +by the bride's father, took place at the family home, at what is now +501 North Main Street, almost a block from the Plaza, on the site of +the Brunswig Drug Company; and there we continued to live until about +1860. + +At four o'clock, a small circle of intimates was welcomed at dinner; +and in the evening there was a house-party and dance, for which +invitations printed on lace-paper, in the typography characteristic of +that day, had been sent out. Among the friends who attended, were the +military officers stationed at Fort Tejón, including Major Bell, the +commanding officer, and Lieutenant John B. Magruder, formerly Colonel +at San Diego and later a Major General in the Civil War, commanding +Confederate forces in the Peninsula and in Texas, and eventually +serving under Maximilian in Mexico. Other friends still living in Los +Angeles who were present are Mr. and Mrs. S. Lazard, Mrs. S. C. Foy, +William H. Workman, C. E. Thom and H. D. Barrows. Men rarely went out +unarmed at night, and most of our male visitors doffed their +weapons--both pistols and knives--as they came in, spreading them +around in the bedrooms. The ladies brought their babies with them for +safe-keeping, and the same rooms were placed at their disposal. +Imagine, if you can, the appearance of this nursery-arsenal! + + [Illustration: Harris Newmark, when (about) Thirty-four Years Old] + + [Illustration: Sarah Newmark, when (about) Twenty-four Years of Age] + + [Illustration: Facsimile of Harris and Sarah Newmark's Wedding + Invitation] + +It was soon after we were married that my wife said to me one day, +rather playfully, but with a touch of sadness, that our meeting might +easily have never taken place; and when I inquired what she meant, she +described an awful calamity that had befallen the Greenwich Avenue +school in New York City, which she attended as a little girl, and +where several hundred pupils were distributed in different +classrooms. The building was four stories in height; the ground floor +paved with stones, was used as a playroom; the primary department was +on the second floor; the more advanced pupils occupied the third; +while the top floor served as a lecture-room. + +On the afternoon of November 20th, 1851, Miss Harrison, the Principal +of the young ladies' department, suddenly fell in a faint, and the +resulting screams for water, being misunderstood, led to the awful cry +of _Fire!_ It was known that the pupils made a dash for the various +doors and were soon massed around the stairway, yet a difference of +opinion existed as to the cause of the tragedy. My wife always said +that the staircase, which led from the upper to the first floor, _en +caracole_, gave way, letting the pupils fall; while others contended +that the bannister snapped asunder, hurling the crowded unfortunates +over the edge to the pavement beneath. A frightful fatality resulted. +Hundreds of pupils of all ages were precipitated in heaps on to the +stone floor, with a loss of forty-seven lives and a hundred or more +seriously crippled. + +My wife, who was a child of but eleven years, was just about to jump +with the rest when a providential hand restrained and saved her. + +News of the disaster quickly spread, and in a short time the crowd of +anxious parents, kinsfolk and friends who had hastened to the scene in +every variety of vehicle and on foot, was so dense that the police had +the utmost difficulty in removing the wounded, dying and dead. + +From Geneva, Switzerland, in 1854, a highly educated French lady, +Mlle. Theresa Bry, whose oil portrait hangs in the County Museum, +reached Los Angeles, and four years later married François Henriot, a +gardener by profession, who had come from _la belle France_ in 1851. +Together, on First Street near Los Angeles, they conducted a private +school which enjoyed considerable patronage; removing the institution, +in the early eighties, to the Arroyo Seco district. This matrimonial +transaction, on account of the unequal social stations of the +respective parties, caused some little flurry: in contrast to her own +beauty and ladylike accomplishments, François's manners were +unrefined, his stature short and squatty, while his full beard +(although it inspired respect, if not a certain feeling of awe, when +he came to exercise authority in the school) was scraggy and unkempt. +Mme. Henriot died in 1888, aged eighty-seven years, and was followed +to the grave by her husband five years later. + +In 1858, the outlook for business brightened in Los Angeles; and Don +Abel Stearns, who had acquired riches as a _ranchero_, built the +Arcadia Block, on the corner of Los Angeles and Arcadia streets, +naming it after his wife, Doña Arcadia, who, since these memoirs were +commenced, has joined the silent majority. The structure cost about +eighty thousand dollars, and was talked of for some time as the most +notable business block south of San Francisco. The newspapers hailed +it as an ornament to the city and a great step toward providing what +the small and undeveloped community then regarded as a fire-proof +structure for business purposes. Because, however, of the dangerous +overflow of the Los Angeles River in rainy seasons, Stearns elevated +the building above the grade of the street and to such an extent that, +for several years, his store-rooms remained empty. But the enterprise +at once bore some good fruit; to make the iron doors and shutters of +the block, he started a foundry on New High Street and soon created +some local iron-casting trade. + +On April 24th, Señora Guadalupe Romero died at the age, it is said, of +one hundred and fifteen years. She came to Los Angeles, I was told, as +far back as 1781, the wife of one of the earliest soldiers sent here, +and had thus lived in the pueblo about seventy-seven years. + +Some chapters in the life of Henry Mellus are of more than passing +interest. Born in Boston, he came to California in 1835, with Richard +Henry Dana, in Captain Thompson's brig _Pilgrim_ made famous in the +story of _Two Years before the Mast_; clerked for Colonel Isaac +Williams when that Chino worthy had a little store where later the +Bella Union stood; returned to the East in 1837 and came back to the +Coast the second time as supercargo. Settling in San Francisco, he +formed with Howard the well-known firm of Howard & Mellus, which was +wiped out, by the great fire, in 1851. Again Mellus returned to +Massachusetts, and in 1858 for a third time came to California, at +length casting his fortune with us in growing Los Angeles. On Dana's +return to San Pedro and the Pacific Coast in 1859, Mellus--who had +married a sister of Francis Mellus's wife and had become a +representative citizen--entertained the distinguished advocate and +author, and drove him around Los Angeles to view the once familiar and +but little-altered scenes. Dana bore all his honors modestly, +apparently quite oblivious of the curiosity displayed toward him and +quite as unconscious that he was making one of the memorable visits in +the early annals of the town. Dana Street serves as a memorial to one +who contributed in no small degree to render the vicinity of Los +Angeles famous. + +Just what hotel life in Los Angeles was in the late fifties, or about +the time when Dana visited here, may be gathered from an anecdote +often told by Dr. W. F. Edgar, who came to the City of the Angels for +the first time in 1858. Dr. Edgar had been ordered to join an +expedition against the Mojave Indians which was to start from Los +Angeles for the Colorado River, and he put up at the old Bella Union, +expecting at least one good night's rest before taking to the saddle +again and making for the desert. Dr. Edgar found, however, to his +intense disgust, that the entire second story was overcrowded with +lodgers. Singing and loud talking were silenced, in turn, by the +protests of those who wanted to sleep; but finally a guest, too full +for expression but not so drunk that he was unable to breathe +hoarsely, staggered in from a Sonora Town ball, tumbled into bed with +his boots on, and commenced to snort, much like a pig. Under ordinary +circumstances, this infliction would have been grievous enough; but +the inner walls of the Bella Union were never overthick, and the +rhythmic snoring of the late-comer made itself emphatically audible +and proportionately obnoxious. Quite as emphatic, however, were the +objections soon raised by the fellow-guests, who not only raised them +but threw them, one after another--boots, bootjacks and sticks +striking, with heavy thud, the snorer's portal; but finding that even +these did not avail, the remonstrants, in various forms of deshabille, +rushed out and began to kick at the door of the objectionable bedroom. +Just at that moment the offender turned over with a grunt; and the +excited army of lodgers, baffled by the unresisting apathy of the +sleeper, retreated, each to his nest. The next day, breathing a sigh +of relief, Edgar forsook the heavenly regions of the Bella Union and +made for Cajón Pass, eventually reaching the Colorado and the place +where the expedition found the charred remains of emigrants' wagons, +the mournful evidence of Indian treachery and atrocity. + +Edgar's nocturnal experience reminds me of another in the good old +Bella Union. When Cameron E. Thom arrived here in the spring of 1854, +he engaged a room at the hotel which he continued to occupy for +several months, or until the rains of 1855 caused both roof and +ceiling to cave in during the middle of the night, not altogether +pleasantly arousing him from his slumbers. It was then that he moved +to Joseph Newmark's, where he lived for some time, through which +circumstance we became warm friends. + +Big, husky, hearty Jacob Kuhrts, by birth a German and now living here +at eighty-one years of age, left home, as a mere boy, for the sea, +visiting California on a vessel from China as early as 1848, and +rushing off to Placer County on the outbreak of the gold-fever. +Roughing it for several years and narrowly escaping death from +Indians, Jake made his first appearance in Los Angeles in 1858, soon +after which I met him, when he was eking out a livelihood doing odd +jobs about town, a fact leading me to conclude that his success at the +mines was hardly commensurate with the privations endured. It was just +about that time, when he was running a dray, that, attracted by a +dance among Germans, Jake dropped in as he was; but how sorry an +appearance he made may perhaps be fancied when I say that the +door-keeper, eyeing him suspiciously, refused him admission and +advised him to go home and put on his Sunday go-to-meetings. Jake went +and, what is more important, fortunately returned; for while spinning +around on the knotty floor, he met, fell in love with and ogled +Fräulein Susan Buhn, whom somewhat later he married. In 1864, Kuhrts +had a little store on Spring Street near the adobe City Hall; and +there he prospered so well that by 1866 he had bought the northwest +corner of Main and First streets, and put up the building he still +owns. For twelve years he conducted a grocery in a part of that +structure, living with his family in the second story, after which he +was sufficiently prosperous to retire. Active as his business life has +been, Jake has proved his patriotism time and again, devoting his +efforts as a City Father, and serving, sometimes without salary, as +Superintendent of Streets, Chief of the Fire Department and Fire +Commissioner. + +In 1858, John Temple built what is now the south wing of the Temple +Block standing directly opposite the Bullard Building; but the Main +Street stores being, like Stearns's Arcadia Block, above the level of +the sidewalk and, therefore, reached only by several steps, proved +unpopular and did not rent, although Tischler & Schlesinger, heading a +party of grain-buyers, stored some wheat in them for a while or until +the grain, through its weight, broke the flooring, and was +precipitated into the cellar; and even as late as 1859, after +telegraph connection with San Francisco had been completed, only one +little space on the Spring Street side, in size not more than eight by +ten feet, was rented, the telegraph company being the tenants. One day +William Wolfskill, pointing to the structure, exclaimed to his +friends: "What a pity that Temple put all his money there! Had he not +gone into building so extravagantly, he might now be a rich man." +Wolfskill himself, however, later commenced the construction of a +small block on Main Street, opposite the Bella Union, to be occupied +by S. Lazard & Company, but which he did not live to see completed. + +Later on, the little town grew and, as this property became more +central, Temple removed the steps and built the stores flush with the +sidewalk, after which wide-awake merchants began to move into them. +One of Temple's first important tenants on Main Street was Daniel +Desmond, the hatter. His store was about eighteen by forty feet. Henry +Slotterbeck, the well-known gunsmith, was another occupant. He always +carried a large stock of gunpowder, which circumstance did not add +very much to the security of the neighborhood. + +On the Court Street side, Jake Philippi was one of the first to +locate, and there he conducted a sort of _Kneipe_. His was a large +room, with a bar along the west side. The floor was generously +sprinkled with sawdust, and in comfortable armchairs, around the good, +old-fashioned redwood tables, frequently sat many of his German +friends and patrons, gathered together to indulge in a game of +_Pedro_, _Skat_ or whist, and to pass the time pleasantly away. Some +of those who thus met together at Jake Phillippi's, at different +periods of his occupancy, were Dr. Joseph Kurtz, H. Heinsch, Conrad +Jacoby, Abe Haas, C. F. Heinzeman, P. Lazarus, Edward Pollitz, A. +Elsaesser and B. F. Drackenfeld, who was a brother-in-law of Judge +Erskine M. Ross and claimed descent from some dwellers on the Rhine. +He succeeded Frank Lecouvreur as bookkeeper for H. Newmark & Company, +and was in turn succeeded, on removing to New York, by Pollitz; while +the latter was followed by John S. Stower, an Englishman now residing +in London, whose immediate predecessor was Richard Altschul. +Drackenfeld attained prominence in New York, and both Altschul and +Pollitz in San Francisco. Of these, Drackenfeld and Pollitz are dead. + +Most of these convivial frequenters at Phillipi's belonged to a sort +of _Deutscher Klub_ which met, at another period, in a little room in +the rear of the corner of Main and Requena streets, just over the cool +cellar then conducted by Bayer & Sattler. A stairway connected the two +floors, and by means of that communication the _Klub_ obtained its +supply of lager beer. This fact recalls an amusing incident. When +Philip Lauth and Louis Schwarz succeeded Christian Henne in the +management of the brewery at the corner of Main and Third streets, the +_Klub_ was much dissatisfied with the new brew and forthwith had Bayer +& Sattler send to Milwaukee for beer made by Philip Best. Getting +wind of the matter, Lauth met the competition by at once putting on +the market a brand more wittily than appropriately known as "Philip's +Best." Sattler left Los Angeles in the early seventies and established +a coffee-plantation in South America where, one day, he was killed by +a native wielding a _machete_. + +The place, which was then known as Joe Bayer's, came to belong to Bob +Eckert, a German of ruddy complexion and auburn hair, whose +good-nature brought him so much patronage that in course of time he +opened a large establishment at Santa Monica. + +John D. Woodworth, a cousin, so it was said, of Samuel Woodworth, the +author of _The Old Oaken Bucket_, and father of Wallace Woodworth who +died in 1883, was among the citizens active here in 1858, being +appointed Postmaster, on May 19th of that year, by President Buchanan. +Then the Post Office, for a twelvemonth in the old Lanfranco Block, +was transferred north on Main Street until, a year or two later, it +was located near Temple and Spring streets. + +In June, the Surveyor-General of California made an unexpected demand +on the authorities of Los Angeles County for all the public documents +relating to the County history under Spanish and Mexican rule. The +request was at first refused; but finally, despite the indignant +protests of the press, the invaluable records were shipped to San +Francisco. + +I believe it was late in the fifties that O. W. Childs contracted with +the City of Los Angeles to dig a water-ditch, perhaps sixteen hundred +feet long, eighteen inches wide and about eighteen inches deep. As I +recollect the transaction, the City allowed him one dollar per running +foot, and he took land in payment. While I cannot remember the exact +location of this land, it comprised in part the wonderfully important +square beginning at Sixth Street and running to Twelfth, and taking in +everything from Main Street as far as and including the present +Figueroa. When Childs put this property on the market, his wife named +several of the streets. Because of some grasshoppers in the vicinity, +she called the extension of Pearl Street (now Figueroa) Grasshopper +or Calle de los Chapules[17]; her Faith Street has been changed to +Flower; for the next street to the East, she selected the name of +Hope; while as if to complete the trio of the Graces, she christened +the adjoining roadway--since become Grand--Charity. The old Childs +home place sold to Henry E. Huntington some years ago, and which has +been subdivided, was a part of this land. + +None of the old settlers ever placed much value on real estate, and +Childs had no sooner closed this transaction than he proceeded to +distribute some of the land among his own and his wife's relatives. He +also gave to the Catholic Church the block later bounded by Sixth and +Seventh streets, between Broadway and Hill; where, until a few years +ago, stood St. Vincent's College, opened in 1855 on the Plaza, on the +site now occupied by the Pekin Curio Store. In the Boom year of 1887, +the Church authorities sold this block for one hundred thousand +dollars and moved the school to the corner of Charity and Washington +streets. + +Andrew A. Boyle, for whom the eastern suburb of Los Angeles, Boyle +Heights, was named by William H. Workman, arrived here in 1858. As +early as 1848, Boyle had set out from Mexico, where he had been in +business, to return to the United States, taking with him some twenty +thousand Mexican dollars, at that time his entire fortune, safely +packed in a fortified claret box. While attempting to board a steamer +from a frail skiff at the mouth of the Rio Grande, the churning by the +paddle-wheels capsized the skiff, and Boyle and his treasure were +thrown into the water. Boyle narrowly escaped with his life; but his +treasure went to the bottom, never to be recovered. It was then said +that Boyle had perished; and his wife, on hearing the false report, +was killed by the shock. Quite as serious, perhaps, was the fact that +an infant daughter was left on his hands--the same daughter who later +became the wife of my friend, William H. Workman. Confiding this child +to an aunt, Boyle went to the Isthmus where he opened a shoe store; +and later coming north, after a San Francisco experience in the +wholesale boot and shoe business, he settled on the bluff which was to +be thereafter associated with his family name. He also planted a small +vineyard, and in the early seventies commenced to make wine, digging a +cellar out of the hill to store his product. + +The brick house, built by Boyle on the Heights in 1858 and always a +center of hospitality, is still standing, although recently remodeled +by William H. Workman, Jr. (brother of Boyle Workman, the banker), who +added a third story and made a cosy dwelling; and it is probably, +therefore, the oldest brick structure in that part of the town. + +Mendel was a younger brother of Sam Meyer, and it is my impression +that he arrived here in the late fifties. He originally clerked for +his brother, and for a short time was in partnership with him and +Hilliard Loewenstein. In time, Meyer engaged in business for himself. +During a number of his best years, Mendel was well thought of +socially, with his fiddle often affording much amusement to his +friends. All in all, he was a good-hearted, jovial sort of a chap, who +too readily gave to others of his slender means. About 1875, he made a +visit to Europe and spent more than he could afford. At any rate, in +later life he did not prosper. He died in Los Angeles a number of +years ago. + +Thomas Copley came here in 1858, having met with many hardships while +driving an ox-team from Fort Leavenworth to Salt Lake and tramped the +entire eight hundred miles between the Mormon capital and San +Bernardino. On arriving, he became a waiter and worked for a while for +the Sisters' Hospital; subsequently he married a lady of about twice +his stature, retiring to private life with a competence. + +Another arrival of the late fifties was Manuel Ravenna, an Italian. He +started a grocery store and continued the venture for some time; then +he entered the saloon business on Main Street. Ravenna commissioned +Wells Fargo & Company to bring by express the first ice shipped to Los +Angeles for a commercial purpose, paying for it an initial price of +twelve and a half cents per pound. The ice came packed in blankets; +but the loss by melting, plus the expense of getting it here, made the +real cost about twenty-four cents a pound. Nevertheless, it was a +clever and profitable move, and brought Ravenna nearly all of the best +trade in town. + +John Butterfield was originally a New York stage-driver and later the +organizer of the American Express Company, as well as projector of the +Morse telegraph line between New York and Buffalo. As the head of John +Butterfield & Company, he was one of my customers in 1857. He +contracted with the United States, in 1858, as President of the +Overland Mail Company, to carry mail between San Francisco and the +Missouri River. To make this possible, sections of the road, afterward +popularly referred to as the Butterfield Route, were built; and the +surveyors, Bishop and Beale, were awarded the contract for part of the +work. It is my recollection that they used for this purpose some of +the camels imported by the United States Government, and that these +animals were in charge of Greek George to whom I have already +referred. + +Butterfield chose a route from San Francisco coming down the Coast to +Gilroy, San José and through the mountain passes; on to Visalia and +Fort Tejón, and then to Los Angeles, in all some four hundred and +sixty-two miles. From Los Angeles it ran eastward through El Monte, +San Bernardino, Temécula and Warner's Ranch to Fort Yuma, and then by +way of El Paso to St. Louis. In this manner, Butterfield arranged for +what was undoubtedly the longest continuous stage-line ever +established, the entire length being about two thousand, eight hundred +and eighty miles. The Butterfield stages began running in September, +1858; and when the first one from the East reached Los Angeles on +October 7th, just twenty days after it started, there was a great +demonstration, accompanied by bon-fires and the firing of cannon. On +this initial trip, just one passenger made the through journey--W. L. +Ormsby, a reporter for the New York _Herald_. This stage reached San +Francisco on October 10th, and there the accomplishment was the +occasion, as we soon heard, of almost riotous enthusiasm. + +Stages were manned by a driver and a conductor or messenger, both +heavily armed. Provender and relief stations were established along +the route, as a rule not more than twenty miles apart, and sometimes +half that distance. The schedule first called for two stages a week, +then one stage in each direction, every other day; and after a while +this plan was altered to provide for a stage every day. There was +little regularity, however, in the hours of departure, and still less +in the time of arrival, and I recollect once leaving for San Francisco +at the unearthly hour of two o'clock in the morning. + +So uncertain, indeed, were the arrival and departure of stages, that +not only were passengers often left behind, but mails were actually +undelivered because no authorized person was on hand, in the lone +hours of the night, to receive and distribute them. Such a ridiculous +incident occurred in the fall of 1858, when bags of mail destined for +Los Angeles were carried on to San Francisco, and were returned by the +stage making its way south and east, fully six days later! Local +newspapers were then more or less dependent for their exchanges from +the great Eastern centers on the courtesy of drivers or agents; and +editors were frequently acknowledging the receipt of such bundles, +from which, with scissors and paste, they obtained the so-called news +items furnished to their subscribers. + +George Lechler, here in 1853, who married Henry Hazard's sister, drove +a Butterfield stage and picked up orders for me from customers along +the route. + +B. W. Pyle, a Virginian by birth, arrived in Los Angeles in 1858, and +became, as far as I can recall, the first exclusive jeweler and +watchmaker, although Charley Ducommun, as I have said, had handled +jewelry and watches some years before in connection with other things. +Pyle's store adjoined that of Newmark, Kremer & Company on Commercial +Street, and I soon became familiar with his methods. He commissioned +many of the stage-drivers to work up business for him on the +Butterfield Route; and as his charges were enormous, he was enabled, +within three or four years, to establish himself in New York. He was +an exceedingly clever and original man and a good student of human +affairs, and I well remember his prediction that, if Lincoln should be +elected President, there would be Civil War. When the United States +Government first had under consideration the building of a +trans-isthmian canal, Pyle bought large tracts of land in Nicaragua, +believing that the Nicaraguan route would eventually be chosen. +Shortly after the selection of the Panamá survey, however, I read one +day in a local newspaper that B. W. Pyle had shot himself, at the age +of seventy years. + +In 1857, Phineas Banning purchased from one of the Dominguez brothers +an extensive tract some miles to the North of San Pedro, along the arm +of the sea, and established a new landing which, in a little while, +was to monopolize the harbor business and temporarily affect all +operations at the old place. Here, on September 25th, 1858, he started +a community called at first both San Pedro New Town and New San Pedro, +and later Wilmington--the latter name suggested by the capital of +Banning's native State of Delaware. Banning next cultivated a tract of +six hundred acres, planted with grain and fruit where, among other +evidences of his singular enterprise, there was soon to be seen a +large well, connected with a steam pump of sufficient force to supply +the commercial and irrigation wants of both Wilmington and San Pedro. +Banning's founding of the former town was due, in part, to heavy +losses sustained through a storm that seriously damaged his wharf, and +in part to his desire to outdo J. J. Tomlinson, his chief business +rival. The inauguration of the new shipping point, on October 1st, +1858, was celebrated by a procession on the water, when a line of +barges loaded with visitors from Los Angeles and vicinity, and with +freight, was towed to the decorated landing. A feature of the +dedication was the assistance rendered by the ladies, who even tugged +at the hawser, following which host and guests liberally partook of +the sparkling beverages contributing to enliven the festive occasion. + +In a short time, the shipping there gave evidence of Banning's +wonderful go-ahead spirit. He had had built, in San Francisco, a +small steamer and some lighters, for the purpose of carrying +passengers and baggage to the large steamships lying outside the +harbor. The enterprise was a shrewd move, for it shortened the +stage-trip about six miles and so gave the new route a considerable +advantage over that of all competitors. Banning, sometimes dubbed "the +Admiral," about the same time presented town lots to all of his +friends (including Eugene Meyer and myself), and with Timms Landing, +the place became a favorite beach resort; but for want of foresight, +most of these same lots were sold for taxes in the days of long ago. I +kept mine for many years and finally sold it for twelve hundred +dollars; while Meyer still owns his. As for Banning himself, he built +a house on Canal Street which he occupied many years, until he moved +to a more commodious home situated half a mile north of the original +location. + +At about this period, three packets plied between San Francisco and +San Diego every ten days, leaving the Commercial Street wharf of the +Northern city and stopping at various intermediate points including +Wilmington. These packets were the clipper-brig _Pride of the Sea_, +Captain Joseph S. Garcia; the clipper-brig _Boston_, Commander W. H. +Martin; and the clipper-schooner _Lewis Perry_, then new and in charge +of Captain Hughes. + +In the fall of 1858, finding that our business was not sufficiently +remunerative to support four families, Newmark, Kremer & Company +dissolved. In the dissolution, I took the clothing part of the +business, Newmark & Kremer retaining the dry goods. + +In November or December, Dr. John S. Griffin acquired San Pasqual +_rancho_, the fine property which had once been the pride of Don +Manuel Garfias. The latter had borrowed three thousand dollars, at +four per cent. per month, to complete his manorial residence, which +cost some six thousand dollars to build; but the ranch proving +unfavorable for cattle, and Don Manuel being a poor manager, the debt +of three thousand dollars soon grew into almost treble the original +amount. When Griffin purchased the place, he gave Garfias an +additional two thousand dollars to cover the stock, horses and +ranch-tools; but even at that the doctor drove a decided bargain. As +early as 1852, Garfias had applied to the Land Commission for a +patent; but this was not issued until April 3d, 1863, and the +document, especially interesting because it bore the signature of +Abraham Lincoln, brought little consolation to Garfias or his proud +wife, _née_ Ábila, who had then signed away all claim to the splendid +property which was in time to play such a _rôle_ in the development of +Los Angeles, Pasadena and their environs. + +On November 20th, Don Bernardo Yorba died, bequeathing to numerous +children and grandchildren an inheritance of one hundred and ten +thousand dollars' worth of personal property, in addition to +thirty-seven thousand acres of land. + +Sometime in December, 1858, Juan Domingo--or, as he was often called, +Juan Cojo or "Lame John," because of a peculiar limp--died at his +vineyard on the south side of Aliso Street, having for years enjoyed +the esteem of the community as a good, substantial citizen. Domingo, +who successfully conducted a wine and brandy business, was a Hollander +by birth, and in his youth had borne the name of Johann Groningen; but +after coming to California and settling among the Latin element, he +had changed it, for what reason will never be known, to Juan Domingo, +the Spanish for John Sunday. The coming of Domingo, in 1827, was not +without romance; he was a ship's carpenter and one of a crew of +twenty-five on the brig _Danube_ which sailed from New York and was +totally wrecked off San Pedro, only two or three souls (among them +Domingo) being saved and hospitably welcomed by the citizens. On +February 12th, 1839, he married a Spanish woman, Reymunda Feliz, by +whom he had a large family of children. A son, J. A. Domingo, was +living until at least recently. A souvenir of Domingo's lameness, in +the County Museum, is a cane with which the doughty sailor often +defended himself. Samuel Prentiss, a Rhode Islander, was another of +the _Danube's_ shipwrecked sailors who was saved. He hunted and fished +for a living and, about 1864 or 1865, died on Catalina Island; and +there, in a secluded spot, not far from the seat of his labors, he +was buried. As the result of a complicated lumber deal, Captain Joseph +S. Garcia, of the _Pride of the Sea_, obtained an interest in a small +vineyard owned by Juan Domingo and Sainsevain; and through this +relation Garcia became a minor partner of Sainsevain in the Cucamonga +winery. Mrs. Garcia is living in Pomona; the Captain died some ten +years ago at Ontario. + +_A propos_ of the three Louis, referred to--Breer, Lichtenberger and +Roeder--all of that sturdy German stock which makes for good American +citizenship, I do not suppose that there is any record of the exact +date of Breer's arrival, although I imagine that it was in the early +sixties. Lichtenberger, who served both as a City Father and City +Treasurer, arrived in 1864, while Roeder used to boast that the ship +on which he sailed to San Francisco, just prior to his coming to Los +Angeles, in 1856 brought the first news of Buchanan's election to the +Presidency. Of the three, Breer--who was known as Iron Louis, on +account of his magnificent physique, suggesting the poet's smith, +"with large and sinewy hands," and muscles as "strong as iron +bands,"--was the least successful; and truly, till the end of his +days, he earned his living by the sweat of his brow. In 1865, +Lichtenberger and Roeder formed a partnership which, in a few years, +was dissolved, each of them then conducting business independently +until, in comfortable circumstances, he retired. Roeder, an early and +enthusiastic member of the Pioneers, is never so proud as when paying +his last respects to a departed comrade: his unfeigned sorrow at the +loss apparently being compensated for, if one may so express it, by +the recognition he enjoyed as one of the society's official committee. +Two of the three Louis are dead.[18] Other early wheelwrights and +blacksmiths were Richard Maloney, on Aliso Street, near Lambourn & +Turner's grocery, and Page & Gravel, who took John Goller's shop when +he joined F. Foster at his Aliso Street forge. + +FOOTNOTES: + +[17] Mexican corruption of the Aztec _chapollin_, grasshopper. _Cf._ +Chapultepec, Grasshopper Hill.--CHARLES F. LUMMIS. + +[18] Louis Roeder died on February 20, 1915 + + + + +CHAPTER XVII + +ADMISSION TO CITIZENSHIP + +1859 + + +In 1858, my brother, to whom the greater opportunities of San +Francisco had long appealed, decided upon a step that was to affect +considerably my own modest affairs. This was to remove permanently to +the North, with my sister-in-law; and in the Los Angeles _Star_ of +January 22d, 1859, there appeared the following: + + Mr. Joseph P. Newmark has established a commission-house in + San Francisco, with a branch in this city. From his + experience in business, Mr. Newmark will be a most + desirable agent for the sale of our domestic produce in the + San Francisco market, and we have no doubt will obtain the + confidence of our merchants and shippers. + +This move of my brother's was made, as a matter of fact, at a time +when Los Angeles, in one or two respects at least, seemed promising. +On September 30th, the building commenced by John Temple in the +preceding February, on the site of the present Bullard Block, was +finished. Most of the upper floor was devoted to a theater, and I am +inclined to think that the balance of the building was leased to the +City, the court room being next to the theater, and the ground floor +being used as a market. To the latter move there was considerable +opposition, affecting, as the expenditures did, taxes and the public +treasury; and one newspaper, after a spirited attack on the "Black +Republicans," concluded its editorial with this patriotic appeal: + + Citizens! Attend to your interests; guard your pocketbooks! + +This building is one of the properties to which I refer as sold by +Hinchman, having been bought by Dr. J. S. Griffin and B. D. Wilson who +resold it in time to the County. + +A striking feature of this market building was the town clock, whose +bell was pronounced "fine-toned and sonorous." The clock and bell, +however, were destined to share the fate of the rest of the structure +which, all in all, was not very well constructed. At last, the heavy +rains of the early sixties played havoc with the tower, and toward the +end of 1861 the clock had set such a pace for itself regardless of the +rest of the universe that the newspapers were full of facetious jibes +concerning the once serviceable timepiece, and many were the queries +as to whether something could not be done to roof the mechanism? The +clock, however, remained uncovered until Bullard demolished the +building to make room for the present structure. + +Elsewhere I have referred to the attempt, shortly after I arrived +here, or during the session of the Legislature of 1854-55, to divide +California into two states--the proposition, be it added of a San +Bernardino County representative. A committee of thirteen, from +different sections of the commonwealth, later substituted a bill +providing for three states: Shasta, in the North; California, at the +middle; Colorado, in the South; but nothing evolving as a result of +the effort, our Assemblyman, Andrés Pico, in 1859 fathered a measure +for the segregation of the Southern counties under the name of +Colorado, when this bill passed both houses and was signed by the +Governor. It had to be submitted to the people, however, at the +election in September, 1859; and although nearly twenty-five hundred +ballots were cast in favor of the division, as against eight hundred +in the negative, the movement was afterward stifled in Washington. + +Damien Marchessault and Victor Beaudry having enthusiastically +organized the Santa Anita Mining Company in 1858, H. N. Alexander, +agent at Los Angeles for Wells Fargo & Company, in 1859 announced that +the latter had provided scales for weighing gold-dust and were +prepared to transact a general exchange business. This was the same +firm that had come through the crisis with unimpaired credit when +Adams & Company and many others went to the wall in the great +financial crash of 1855. + +I have mentioned the Mormon Colony at San Bernardino and its +connection, as an offshoot, with the great Mormon city, Salt Lake; now +I may add that each winter, for fifteen or twenty years, or until +railroad connection was established, a lively and growing trade was +carried on between Los Angeles and Utah. This was because the Mormons +had no open road toward the outside world, except in the direction of +Southern California; for snow covered both the Rockies and the Sierra +Nevadas, and closed every other highway and trail. A number of Mormon +wagon-trains, therefore, went back and forth every winter over the +seven hundred miles or more of fairly level, open roadways, between +Salt Lake and Los Angeles, taking back not only goods bought here but +much that was shipped from San Francisco to Salt Lake via San Pedro. I +remember that in February, 1859, these Mormon wagons arrived by the +Overland Route almost daily. + +The third week in February witnessed one of the most interesting +gatherings of _rancheros_ characteristic of Southern California life I +have ever seen. It was a typical _rodeo_, lasting two or three days, +for the separating and re-grouping of cattle and horses, and took +place at the residence of William Workman at La Puente _rancho_. +Strictly speaking, the _rodeo_ continued but two days, or less; for, +inasmuch as the cattle to be sorted and branded had to be deprived for +the time being of their customary nourishment, the work was +necessarily one of despatch. Under the direction of a Judge of the +Plains--on this occasion, the polished cavalier, Don Felipe Lugo--they +were examined, parted and branded, or re-branded, with hot irons +impressing a mark (generally a letter or odd monogram) duly registered +at the Court House and protected by the County Recorder's certificate. +Never have I seen finer horsemanship than was there displayed by those +whose task it was to pursue the animal and throw the lasso around the +head or leg; and as often as most of those present had probably seen +the feat performed, great was their enthusiasm when each _vaquero_ +brought down his victim. Among the guests were most of the _rancheros_ +of wealth and note, together with their attendants, all of whom made +up a company ready to enjoy the unlimited hospitality for which the +Workmans were so renowned. + +Aside from the business in hand of disposing of such an enormous +number of mixed-up cattle in so short a time, what made the occasion +one of keen delight was the remarkable, almost astounding ability of +the horseman in controlling his animal; for lassoing cattle was not +his only forte. The _vaquero_ of early days was a clever rider and +handler of horses, particularly the bronco--so often erroneously +spelled broncho--sometimes a mustang, sometimes an Indian pony. Out of +a drove that had never been saddled, he would lasso one, attach a +halter to his neck and blindfold him by means of a strap some two or +three inches in width fastened to the halter; after which he would +suddenly mount the bronco and remove the blind, when the horse, +unaccustomed to discipline or restraint, would buck and kick for over +a quarter of a mile, and then stop only because of exhaustion. With +seldom a mishap, however, the _vaquero_ almost invariably broke the +mustang to the saddle within three or four days. This little Mexican +horse, while perhaps not so graceful as his American brother, was +noted for endurance; and he could lope from morning till night, if +necessary, without evidence of serious fatigue. + +Speaking of this dexterity, I may add that now and then the early +Californian _vaquero_ gave a good exhibition of his prowess in the +town itself. Runaways, due in part to the absence of hitching posts +but frequently to carelessness, occurred daily; and sometimes a clever +horseman who happened to be near would pursue, overtake and lasso the +frightened steed before serious harm had been done. + +Among the professional classes, J. Lancaster Brent was always popular, +but never more welcomed than on his return from Washington on +February 26th, 1859, when he brought the United States patent to the +Dominguez _rancho_, dated December 18th, 1858, and the first document +of land conveyance from the American Government to reach California. + +In mercantile circles, Adolph Portugal became somewhat prominent, +conducting a flourishing business here for a number of years after +opening in 1854, and accumulating, before 1865, about seventy-five +thousand dollars. With this money he then left Los Angeles and went to +Europe, where he made an extremely unprofitable investment. He +returned to Los Angeles and again engaged in mercantile pursuits; but +he was never able to recover, and died a pauper. + +Corbitt, who at one time controlled, with Dibblee, great ranch areas +near Santa Bárbara, and in 1859 was in partnership with Barker, owned +the Santa Anita _rancho_, which he later sold to William Wolfskill. +From Los Angeles, Corbitt went to Oregon, where he became, I think, a +leading banker. + +Louis Mesmer arrived here in 1858, then went to Fraser River and +there, in eight months, he made twenty thousand dollars by baking for +the Hudson Bay Company's troops. A year later he was back in Los +Angeles; and on Main Street, somewhere near Requena, he started a +bakery. In time he controlled the local bread trade, supplying among +others the Government troops here. In 1864, Mesmer bought out the +United States Hotel, previously run by Webber & Haas, and finally +purchased from Don Juan N. Padilla the land on which the building +stood. This property, costing three thousand dollars, extended one +hundred and forty feet on Main Street and ran through to Los Angeles, +on which street it had a frontage of about sixty feet. Mesmer's son +Joseph is still living and is active in civic affairs. + +William Nordholt, a Forty-niner, was also a resident of Los Angeles +for some time. He was a carpenter and worked in partnership with Jim +Barton; and when Barton was elected Sheriff, Nordholt continued in +business for himself. At length, in 1859, he opened a grocery store on +the northwest corner of Los Angeles and First streets, which he +conducted for many years. Even in 1853, when I first knew him, +Nordholt had made a good start; and he soon accumulated considerable +real estate on First Street, extending from Los Angeles to Main. He +shared his possessions with his Spanish wife, who attended to his +grocery; but after his death, in perhaps the late seventies, his +children wasted their patrimony. + +Notwithstanding the opening of other hotels, the Bella Union continued +throughout the fifties to be the representative headquarters of its +kind in Los Angeles and for a wide area around. On April 19th, 1856, +Flashner & Hammell took hold of the establishment; and a couple of +years after that, Dr. J. B. Winston, who had had local hotel +experience, joined Flashner and together they made improvements, +adding the second story, which took five or six months to complete. +This step forward in the hostelry was duly celebrated, on April 14th, +1859, at a dinner, the new dining-room being advertised, far and wide, +as "one of the finest in all California." + +Shortly after this, however, Marcus Flashner (who owned some +thirty-five acres at the corner of Main and Washington streets, where +he managed either a vineyard or an orange orchard), met a violent +death. He used to travel to and from this property in a buggy; and one +day--June 29th, 1859--his horse ran away, throwing him out and killing +him. In 1860, John King, Flashner's brother-in-law, entered the +management of the Bella Union; and by 1861, Dr. Winston had sole +control. + +Strolling again, in imagination, into the old Bella Union of this +time, I am reminded of a novel method then employed to call the guests +to their meals. When I first came to Los Angeles the hotel waiter rang +a large bell to announce that all was ready; but about the spring of +1859 the fact that another meal had been concocted was signalized by +the blowing of a shrill steam-whistle placed on the hotel's roof. This +brought together both the "regulars" and transients, everyone +scurrying to be first at the dining-room door. + +About the middle of April, Wells Fargo & Company's rider made a fast +run between San Pedro and Los Angeles, bringing all the mail matter +from the vessels, and covering the more than twenty-seven miles of +the old roundabout route in less than an hour. + +The Protestant Church has been represented in Los Angeles since the +first service in Mayor Nichols' home and the missionary work of Adam +Bland; but it was not until May 4th, 1859, that any attempt was made +to erect an edifice for the Protestants in the community. Then a +committee, including Isaac S. K. Ogier, A. J. King, Columbus Sims, +Thomas Foster, William H. Shore, N. A. Potter, J. R. Gitchell and +Henry D. Barrows began to collect funds. Reverend William E. Boardman, +an Episcopalian, was invited to take charge; but subscriptions coming +in slowly, he conducted services, first in one of the school buildings +and then in the Court House, until 1862 when he left. + +Despite its growing communication with San Francisco, Los Angeles for +years was largely dependent upon sail and steamboat service, and each +year the need of a better highway to the North, for stages, became +more and more apparent. Finally, in May, 1859, General Ezra Drown was +sent as a commissioner to Santa Bárbara, to discuss the construction +of a road to that city; and on his return he declared the project +quite practicable. The Supervisors had agreed to devote a certain sum +of money, and the Santa Barbareños, on their part, were to vote on the +proposition of appropriating fifteen thousand dollars for the work. +Evidently the citizens voted favorably; for in July of the following +year James Thompson, of Los Angeles, contracted for making the new +road through Santa Bárbara County, from the Los Angeles to the San +Luis Obispo lines, passing through Ventura--or San Buenaventura, as it +was then more poetically called--Santa Bárbara and out by the Gaviota +Pass; in all, a distance of about one hundred and twenty-five miles. +Some five or six months were required to finish the rough work, and +over thirty thousand dollars was expended for that alone. + +Winfield Scott Hancock, whom I came to know well and who had been here +before, arrived in Los Angeles in May, 1859, to establish a depot for +the Quartermaster's Department which he finally located at +Wilmington, naming it Drum Barracks, after Adjutant-General Richard +Coulter Drum, for several years at the head of the Department of the +West. Hancock himself was Quartermaster and had an office in a brick +building on Main Street near Third; and he was in charge of all +Government property here and at Yuma, Arizona Territory, then a +military post. He thus both bought and sold; advertising at one time, +for example, a call for three or four hundred thousand pounds of +barley, and again offering for sale, on behalf of poor Uncle Sam, the +important item of a lone, braying mule! Hancock invested liberally in +California projects, and became interested, with others, in the Bear +Valley mines; and at length had the good luck to strike a rich and +paying vein of gold quartz. + +Beaudry & Marchessault were among the first handlers of ice in Los +Angeles, having an ice-house in 1859, where, in the springtime, they +stored the frozen product taken from the mountain lakes fifty miles +away. The ice was cut into cubes of about one hundred pounds each, +packed down the _cañons_ by a train of thirty to forty mules, and then +brought in wagons to Los Angeles. By September, 1860, wagon-loads of +San Bernardino ice--or perhaps one would better say compact snow--were +hawked about town and bought up by saloon-keepers and others, having +been transported in the way I have just described, a good seventy-five +miles. Later, ice was shipped here from San Francisco; and soon after +it reached town, the saloons displayed signs soliciting orders. + +Considering the present popularity of the silver dollar along the +entire Western Coast, it may be interesting to recall the stamping of +these coins, for the first time in California, at the San Francisco +mint. This was in the spring of 1859, soon after which they began to +appear in Los Angeles. A few years later, in 1863, and for ten or +fifteen years thereafter, silver half-dimes, coined in San Francisco, +were to be seen here occasionally; but they were never popular. The +larger silver piece, the dime, was more common, although for a while +it also had little purchasing power. As late as the early seventies +it was not welcome, and many a time I have seen dimes thrown into the +street as if they were worthless. This prejudice against the smaller +silver coins was much the same as the feeling which even to-day +obtains with many people on the Coast against the copper cent. When +the nickel, in the eighties, came into use, the old Californian +tradition as to coinage began to disappear; and this opened the way +for the introduction of the one-cent piece, which is more and more +coming into popular favor. + +In the year 1859, the Hellman brothers, Isaias W. and Herman W., +arrived here in a sailing-vessel with Captain Morton. I. W. Hellman +took a clerkship with his cousin, I. M. Hellman, who had arrived in +1854 and was established in the stationery line in Mellus's Row, while +H. W. Hellman went to work in June, 1859, for Phineas Banning, at +Wilmington. I. W. Hellman immediately showed much ability and greatly +improved his cousin's business. By 1865, he was in trade for himself, +selling dry-goods at the corner of Main and Commercial streets as the +successor to A. Portugal; while H. W. Hellman, father of Marco H. +Hellman, the banker, and father-in-law of the public-spirited citizen, +Louis M. Cole, became my competitor, as will be shown later, in the +wholesale grocery business. + +John Philbin, an Irishman, arrived here penniless late in the fifties, +but with my assistance started a small store at Fort Tejón, then a +military post necessary for the preservation of order on the Indian +Reservation; and there, during the short space of eighteen months, he +accumulated twenty thousand dollars. Illness compelled him to leave, +and I bought his business and property. After completing this +purchase, I engaged a clerk in San Francisco to manage the new branch. +As John Philbin had been very popular, the new clerk also called +himself "John" and soon enjoyed equal favor. It was only when Bob +Wilson came into town one day from the Fort and told me, "That chap +John is gambling your whole damned business away; he plays seven-up at +twenty dollars a game, and when out of cash, puts up blocks of +merchandise," that I investigated and discharged him, sending Kaspare +Cohn, who had recently arrived from Europe, to take his place. + +It was in 1859, or a year before Abraham Lincoln was elected +President, that I bought out Philbin, and at the breaking out of the +War, the troops were withdrawn from Fort Tejón, thus ending my +activity there as a merchant. We disposed of the stock as best we +could; but the building, which had cost three thousand dollars, +brought at forced sale just fifty. Fort Tejón, established about 1854, +I may add, after it attained some fame as the only military post in +Southern California where snow ever fell, and also as the scene of the +earthquake phenomena I have described, was abandoned altogether as a +military station on September 11th, 1864. Philbin removed to Los +Angeles, where he invested in some fifty acres of vineyard along San +Pedro Street, extending as far south as the present Pico; and I still +have a clear impression of the typical old adobe there, so badly +damaged by the rains of 1890. + +Kaspare remained in my employ until he set up in business at Red +Bluff, Tehama County, where he continued until January, 1866. In more +recent years, he has come to occupy an enviable position as a +successful financier. + +Somewhat less than six years after my arrival (or, to be accurate, on +the fifteenth day of August, 1859, about the time of my mother's death +at Loebau), and satisfying one of my most ardent ambitions, I entered +the family of Uncle Sam, carrying from the District Court here a +red-sealed document, to me of great importance; my newly-acquired +citizenship being attested by Ch. R. Johnson, Clerk, and John O. +Wheeler, Deputy. + +On September 3d, the Los Angeles _Star_ made the following +announcement and salutation: + + CALLED TO THE BAR--At the present term of the District + Court for the First Judicial District, Mr. M. J. Newmark + was called to the bar. We congratulate Mr. Newmark on his + success, and wish him a brilliant career in his profession. + +This kindly reference was to my brother-in-law, who had read law in +the office of E. J. C. Kewen, then on Main Street, opposite the Bella +Union, and had there, in the preceding January, when already eleven +attorneys were practicing here, hung out his shingle as Notary Public +and Conveyancer--an office to which he was reappointed by the Governor +in 1860, soon after he had been made Commissioner for the State of +Missouri to reside in Los Angeles. About that same time he began to +take a lively interest in politics; being elected, on October 13th, +1860, a delegate to the Democratic County Convention. A. J. King was +also admitted to the Bar toward the end of that year. + +We who have such praise for the rapid growth of the population in Los +Angeles must not forget the faithful midwives of early days, when +there was not the least indication that there would ever be a lying-in +hospital here. First, one naturally recalls old Mrs. Simmons, the +_Sarah Gamp_ of the fifties; while her professional sister of the +sixties was Lydia Rebbick, whose name also will be pleasantly spoken +by old-timers. A brother of Mrs. Rebbick was James H. Whitworth, a +rancher, who came to Los Angeles County in 1857. + +Residents of Los Angeles to-day have but a faint idea, I suppose, of +what exertion we cheerfully submitted to, forty or fifty years ago, in +order to participate in a little pleasure. This was shown at an outing +in 1859, on and by the sea, made possible through the courtesy of my +hospitable friend, Phineas Banning, details of which illustrate the +social conditions then prevailing here. + +Banning had invited fifty or sixty ladies and gentlemen to accompany +him to Catalina; and at about half-past five o'clock on a June morning +the guests arrived at Banning's residence where they partook of +refreshments. Then they started in decorated stages for New San Pedro, +where the host (who, by the way, was a man of most genial temperament, +fond of a joke and sure to infuse others with his good-heartedness) +regaled his friends with a hearty breakfast, not forgetting anything +likely to both warm and cheer. After ample justice had been done to +this feature, the picknickers boarded Banning's little steamer _Comet_ +and made for the outer harbor. + +There they were transferred to the United States Coast Survey ship +_Active_, which steamed away so spiritedly that in two hours the +passengers were off Catalina; nothing meanwhile having been left +undone to promote the comfort of everyone aboard the vessel. During +this time Captain Alder and his officers, resplendent in their naval +uniforms, held a reception; and unwilling that the merrymakers should +be exposed without provisions to the wilds of the less-trodden island, +they set before them a substantial ship's dinner. Once ashore, the +visitors strolled along the beach and across that part of the island +then most familiar; and at four o'clock the members of the party were +again walking the decks of the Government vessel. Steaming back +slowly, San Pedro was reached after sundown; and, having again been +bundled into the stages, the excursionists were back in Los Angeles +about ten o'clock. + +I have said that most of the early political meetings took place at +the residence of Don Ygnácio del Valle. I recall, however, a mass +meeting and barbecue, in August, 1859, in a grove at El Monte owned by +inn-keeper Thompson. Benches were provided for the ladies, prompting +the editor of the _Star_ to observe, with characteristic gallantry, +that the seats "were fully occupied by an array of beauty such as no +other portion of the State ever witnessed." + +On September 11th, Eberhard & Koll opened the Lafayette Hotel on Main +Street, on the site opposite the Bella Union where once had stood the +residence of Don Eulógio de Celis. Particular inducements to families +desiring quiet and the attraction of a table "supplied with the +choicest viands and delicacies of the season" were duly advertised; +but the proprietors met with only a moderate response. On January 1st, +1862, Eberhard withdrew and Frederick W. Koll took into partnership +Henry Dockweiler--father of two of our very prominent young men, J. H. +Dockweiler, the civil engineer and, in 1889, City Surveyor, and +Isidore B. Dockweiler, the attorney--and Chris Fluhr. In two years, +Dockweiler had withdrawn, leaving Fluhr as sole proprietor; and he +continued as such until, in the seventies, he took Charles Gerson into +partnership with him. It is my recollection, in fact, that Fluhr was +associated with this hotel in one capacity or another until its name +was changed, first to the Cosmopolitan and then to the St. Elmo. + +Various influences contributed to causing radical social changes, +particularly throughout the county. When Dr. John S. Griffin and other +pioneers came here, they were astonished at the hospitality of the +ranch-owners, who provided for them, however numerous, shelter, food +and even fresh saddle-horses; and this bounteous provision for the +wayfarer continued until the migrating population had so increased as +to become something of a burden and economic conditions put a brake on +unlimited entertainment. Then a slight reaction set in, and by the +sixties a movement to demand some compensation for such service began +to make itself felt. In 1859, Don Vicente de la Osa advertised that he +would afford accommodation for travelers by way of his ranch, _El +Encino_; but that to protect himself, he must consider it "an +essential part of the arrangement that visitors should act on the good +old rule and--pay as one goes!" + +In 1859, C. H. Classen, a native of Germany, opened a cigar factory in +the Signoret Building on Main Street, north of Arcadia; and believing +that tobacco could be successfully grown in Los Angeles County, he +sent to Cuba for some seed and was soon making cigars from the local +product. I fancy that the plants degenerated because, although others +experimented with Los Angeles tobacco, the growing of the leaf here +was abandoned after a few years. H. Newmark & Company handled much +tobacco for sheep-wash, and so came to buy the last Southern +California crop. When I speak of sheep-wash, I refer to a solution +made by steeping tobacco in water and used to cure a skin disease +known as scab. It was always applied after shearing, for then the wool +could not be affected and the process was easier. + +Talking of tobacco, I may say that the commercial cigarette now for +sale everywhere was not then to be seen. People rolled their own +cigarettes, generally using brown paper, but sometimes the white, +which came in reams of sheets about six by ten inches in size. +Kentucky leaf was most in vogue; and the first brand of granulated +tobacco that I remember was known as _Sultana_. Clay pipes, then +packed in barrels, were used a good deal more than now, and brier +pipes much less. There was no duty on imported cigars, and their +consequent cheapness brought them into general consumption. +Practically all of the native female population smoked cigarettes, for +it was a custom of the country; but the American ladies did not +indulge. While spending an enjoyable hour at the County Museum +recently, I noticed a cigarette-case of finely-woven matting that once +belonged to António María Lugo, and a bundle of cigarettes, rolled up, +like so many matches, by Andrés Pico; and both the little _cigarillos_ +and the holder will give a fair understanding of these customs of the +past. + +Besides the use of tobacco in cigar and cigarette form, and for pipes, +there was much consumption of the weed by chewers. _Peachbrand_, a +black plug saturated with molasses and packed in caddies--a term more +commonly applied to little boxes for tea--was the favorite chewing +tobacco fifty years or more ago. It would hardly be an exaggeration to +say that nine out of ten Americans in Los Angeles indulged in this +habit, some of whom certainly exposed us to the criticism of Charles +Dickens and others, who found so much fault with our manners. + +The pernicious activity of rough or troublesome characters brings to +recollection an aged Indian named Polonia, whom pioneers will easily +recollect as having been bereft of his sight, by his own people, +because of his unnatural ferocity. He was six feet four inches in +height, and had once been endowed with great physical strength; he was +clad, for the most part, in a tattered blanket, so that his mere +appearance was sufficient to impress, if not to intimidate, the +observer. Only recently, in fact, Mrs. Solomon Lazard told me that to +her and her girl playmates Polonia and his fierce countenance were the +terror of their lives. He may thus have deserved to forfeit his life +for many crimes; but the idea of cutting a man's eyes out for any +offense whatever, no matter how great, is revolting in the extreme. +The year I arrived, and for some time thereafter, Polonia slept by +night in the corridor of Don Manuel Requena's house. With the aid of +only a very long stick, this blind Indian was able to find his way all +over the town. + +Sometime in 1859, Daniel Sexton, a veteran of the battles of San +Bartolo and the Mesa, became possessed of the idea that gold was +secreted in large sacks near the ruins of San Juan Capistrano; and +getting permission, he burrowed so far beneath the house of a citizen +that the latter, fearing his whole home was likely to cave in, +frantically begged the gold-digger to desist. Sexton, in fact, came +near digging his own grave instead of another's, and was for a while +the good-natured butt of many a pun. + +Jacob A. Moerenhout, a native of Antwerp, Belgium, who had been French +Consul for a couple of years at Monterey, in the latter days of the +Mexican _régime_, removed to Los Angeles on October 29th, 1859, on +which occasion the Consular flag of France was raised at his residence +in this city. As early as January 13th, 1835, President Andrew Jackson +had appointed Moerenhout "U. S. Consul to Otaheite and the Rest of the +Society Islands," the original Consular document, with its quaint +spelling and signed by the vigorous pen of that President, existing +to-day in a collection owned by Dr. E. M. Clinton of Los Angeles; and +the Belgian had thus so profited by experience in promoting trade and +amicable relations between foreign nations that he was prepared to +make himself _persona grata_ here. Salvos of cannon were fired, while +the French citizens, accompanied by a band, formed in procession and +marched to the Plaza. In the afternoon, Don Louis Sainsevain in honor +of the event set a groaning and luxurious table for a goodly company +at his hospitable residence. There patriotic toasts were gracefully +proposed and as gracefully responded to. The festivities continued +until the small hours of the morning, after which Consul Moerenhout +was declared a duly-initiated Angeleño. + + [Illustration: San Pedro Street, near Second, in the Early Seventies] + + [Illustration: Commercial Street, Looking East from Main, about 1870] + + [Illustration: View of Plaza, Showing the Reservoir] + + [Illustration: Old Lanfranco Block] + +Surrounded by most of his family, Don Juan Bandini, a distinguished +Southern Californian and a worthy member of one of the finest Spanish +families here, after a long and painful illness, died at the home of +his daughter and son-in-law, Doña Arcadia and Don Abel Stearns, in +Los Angeles, on November 4th, 1859. Don Juan had come to California +far back in the early twenties, and to Los Angeles so soon thereafter +that he was a familiar and welcome figure here many years before I +arrived. + +It is natural that I should look back with pleasure and satisfaction +to my association with a gentleman so typically Californian, +warm-hearted, genial and social in the extreme; and one who dispensed +so large and generous a hospitality. He came with his father--who +eventually died here and was buried at the old San Gabriel +Mission--and at one time possessed the Jurupa _rancho_, where he +lived. Don Juan was a lawyer by profession, and had written the best +part of a history of early California, the manuscript of which went to +the State University. The passing glimpse of Bandini, in sunlight and +in shadow, recorded by Dana in his classic _Two Years before the +Mast_, adds to the fame already enjoyed by this native Californian. + +Himself of a good-sized family, Don Juan married twice. His first +wife, courted in 1823, was Dolores, daughter of Captain José +Estudillo, a _comandante_ at Monterey; and of that union were born +Doña Arcadia, first the wife of Abel Stearns and later of Colonel R. +S. Baker; Doña Ysidora, who married Lieutenant Cave J. Coutts, a +cousin of General Grant; Doña Josefa, later the wife of Pedro C. +Carrillo (father of J. J. Carrillo, formerly Marshal here and now +Justice of the Peace at Santa Monica), and the sons, José María +Bandini and Juanito Bandini. Don Juan's second wife was Refúgio, a +daughter of Santiago Arguello and a granddaughter of the governor who +made the first grants of land to _rancheros_ of Los Angeles. She it +was who nursed the wounded Kearny and who became a friend of +Lieutenant William T. Sherman, once a guest at her home; and she was +also the mother of Doña Dolores, later the wife of Charles R. Johnson, +and of Doña Margarita whom Dr. James B. Winston married after his +rollicking bachelor days. By Bandini's second marriage there were +three sons: Juan de la Cruz Bandini, Alfredo Bandini and Arturo +Bandini. + +The financial depression of 1859 affected the temperament of citizens +so much that little or no attention was paid to holidays, with the one +exception, perhaps, of the Bella Union's poorly-patronized Christmas +dinner; and during 1860 many small concerns closed their doors +altogether. + +I have spoken of the fact that brick was not much used when I first +came to Los Angeles, and have shown how it soon after became more +popular as a building material. This was emphasized during 1859, when +thirty-one brick buildings, such as they were, were put up. + +In December, Benjamin Hayes, then District Judge and holding court in +the dingy old adobe at the corner of Spring and Franklin streets, +ordered the Sheriff to secure and furnish another place; and despite +the fact that there was only a depleted treasury to meet the new +outlay of five or six thousand dollars, few persons attempted to deny +the necessity. The fact of the matter was that, when it rained, water +actually poured through the ceiling and ran down the court-room walls, +spattering over the Judge's desk to such an extent that umbrellas +might very conveniently have been brought into use; all of which led +to the limit of human patience if not of human endurance. + +In 1859, one of the first efforts toward the formation of a Public +Library was made when Felix Bachman, Myer J. Newmark, William H. +Workman, Sam Foy, H. S. Allanson and others organized a Library +Association, with John Temple as President; J. J. Warner, +Vice-President; Francis Mellus, Treasurer; and Israel Fleishman, +Secretary. The Association established a reading-room in Don Abel +Stearns's Arcadia Block. An immediate and important acquisition was +the collection of books that had been assembled by Henry Mellus for +his own home; other citizens contributed books, periodicals and money; +and the messengers of the Overland Mail undertook to get such Eastern +newspapers as they could for the perusal of the library members. Five +dollars was charged as an initiation fee, and a dollar for monthly +dues; but insignificant as was the expense, the undertaking was not +well patronized by the public, and the project, to the regret of many, +had to be abandoned. + +This effort to establish a library recalls an Angeleño of the fifties, +Ralph Emerson, a cousin, I believe, though somewhat distantly removed, +of the famous Concord philosopher. He lived on the west side of +Alameda Street, in an adobe known as Emerson's Row, between First and +Aliso streets, where Miss Mary E. Hoyt, assisted by her mother, had a +school; and where at one time Emerson, a strong competitor of mine in +the hide business, had his office. Fire destroyed part of their home +late in 1859, and again in the following September. Emerson served as +a director on the Library Board, both he and his wife being among the +most refined and attractive people of the neighborhood. + +It must have been late in November that Miss Hoyt announced the +opening of her school at No. 2 Emerson Row, in doing which she +followed a custom in vogue with private schools at that time and +published the endorsements of leading citizens, or patrons. + +Again in 1861, Miss Hoyt advertised to give "instruction in the higher +branches of English education, with French, drawing, and ornamental +needlework," for five dollars a month; while three dollars was asked +for the teaching of the common branches and needlework, and only two +dollars for teaching the elementary courses. Miss Hoyt's move was +probably due to the inability of the Board of Education to secure an +appropriation with which to pay the public school teachers. This lack +of means led not only to a general discussion of the problem, but to +the recommendation that Los Angeles schools be graded and a high +school started. + +Following a dry year, and especially a fearful heat wave in October +which suddenly ran the mercury up to one hundred and ten degrees, +December witnessed heavy rains in the mountains inundating both +valleys and towns. On the fourth of December the most disastrous rain +known in the history of the Southland set in, precipitating, within a +single day and night, twelve inches of water; and causing the rise of +the San Gabriel and other rivers to a height never before recorded and +such a cataclysm that sand and _débris_ were scattered far and wide. +Lean and weakened from the ravaging drought through which they had +just passed, the poor cattle, now exposed to the elements of cold rain +and wind, fell in vast numbers in their tracks. The bed of the Los +Angeles River was shifted for, perhaps, a quarter of a mile. Many +houses in town were cracked and otherwise damaged, and some caved in +altogether. The front of the old Church, attacked through a leaking +roof, disintegrated, swayed and finally gave way, filling the +neighboring street with impassable heaps. + +I have spoken of the Market House built by John Temple for the City. +On December 29th, there was a sale of the stalls by Mayor D. +Marchessault; and all except six booths were disposed of, each for the +term of three months. One hundred and seventy-three dollars was the +rental agreed upon; and Dodson & Company bid successfully for nine out +of thirteen of the stalls. By the following month, however, complaints +were made in the press that, though the City Fathers had "condescended +to let the suffering public" have another market, they still prevented +the free competition desired; and by the end of August, it was openly +charged that the manner in which the City Market was conducted showed +"a gross piece of favoritism," and that the City Treasury on this +account would suffer a monthly loss of one hundred dollars in rents +alone. + +About 1859, John Murat, following in the wake of Henry Kuhn, +proprietor of the New York Brewery, established the Gambrinus in the +block bounded by Los Angeles, San Pedro and First and what has become +Second streets. The brewery, notwithstanding its spacious yard, was +anything but an extensive institution, and the quality of the product +dispensed to the public left much to be desired; but it was beer, and +Murat has the distinction of having been one of the first Los Angeles +brewers. The New York's spigot, a suggestive souvenir of those +convivial days picked up by George W. Hazard, now enriches a local +museum. + +These reminiscences recall still another brewer--Christian Henne--at +whose popular resort on Main Street, on the last evening of 1859, +following some conferences in the old Round House, thirty-eight Los +Angeles Germans met and formed an association which they called the +Teutonia-Concordia. The object was to promote social intercourse, +especially among Germans, and to further the study of German song. C. +H. Classen was chosen first President; H. Hammel, Vice-President; H. +Heinsch, Secretary; and Lorenzo Leck, Treasurer. + +How great were the problems confronting the national government in the +development of our continent may be gathered from the strenuous +efforts--and their results--to encourage an overland mail route. Six +hundred thousand dollars a year was the subsidy granted the +Butterfield Company for running two mail coaches each way a week; yet +the postal revenue for the first year was but twenty-seven thousand +dollars, leaving a deficit of more than half a million! But this was +not all that was discouraging: politicians attacked the stage route +administration, and then the newspapers had to come to the rescue and +point out the advantages as compared with the ocean routes. Indians, +also, were an obstacle; and with the arrival of every stage, one +expected to hear the sensational story of ambushing and murder rather +than the yarn of a monotonous trip. When new reports of such outrages +were brought in, new outcries were raised and new petitions, calling +on the Government for protection, were hurriedly circulated. + + + + +CHAPTER XVIII + +FIRST EXPERIENCE WITH THE TELEGRAPH + +1860 + + +In 1860, Maurice Kremer was elected County Treasurer, succeeding H. N. +Alexander who had entered the service of Wells Fargo & Company; and he +attended to this new function at his store on Commercial Street, where +he kept the County funds. I had my office in the same place; and the +salary of the Treasurer at the time being but one hundred and +twenty-five dollars a month, with no allowance for an assistant, I +agreed to act as Deputy Treasurer without pay. As a matter of fact, I +was a sort of Emergency Deputy only, and accepted the responsibility +as an accommodation to Kremer, in order that when he was out of town +there might be someone to take charge of his affairs. It is very +evident, however, that I did not appreciate the danger connected with +this little courtesy, since it often happened that there were from +forty to fifty thousand dollars in the money-chest. An expert burglar +could have opened the safe without special effort, and might have gone +scot-free, for the only protector at night was my nephew, Kaspare +Cohn, a mere youth, who clerked for me and slept on the premises. + +Inasmuch as no bank had as yet been established in Los Angeles, Kremer +carried the money to Sacramento twice a year; nor was this +transportation of the funds, first by steamer to San Francisco, thence +by boat inland, without danger. The State was full of desperate +characters who would cut a throat or scuttle a ship for a great deal +less than the amount involved. At the end of five or six years, +Kremer was succeeded as County Treasurer by J. Huber, Jr. I may add, +incidentally, that the funds in question could have been transported +north by Wells Fargo & Company, but their charges were exorbitant. At +a later period, when they were better equipped and rates had been +reduced, they carried the State money. + +On January 2d, Joseph Paulding, a Marylander, died. Twenty-seven years +before, he came by way of the Gila, and boasted having made the first +two mahogany billiard tables constructed in California. + +The same month, attention was directed to a new industry, the +polishing and mounting of _abalone_ shells, then as now found on the +coast of Southern California. A year or so later, G. Fischer was +displaying a shell brooch, colored much like an opal and mounted in +gold. By 1866, the demand for _abalone_ shells had so increased that +over fourteen thousand dollars' worth was exported from San Francisco, +while a year later consignments valued at not less than thirty-six +thousand dollars were sent out through the Golden Gate. Even though +the taste of to-day considers this shell as hardly deserving of such a +costly setting, it is nevertheless true that these early ornaments, +much handsomer than many specimens of quartz jewelry, soon became +quite a fad in Los Angeles. Natives and Indians, especially, took a +fancy to the _abalone_ shell, and even much later earrings of that +material were worn by the Crow scout Curley, a survivor of the Custer +Massacre. In 1874, R. W. Jackson, a shell-jeweler on Montgomery +Street, San Francisco, was advertising here for the rarities, offering +as much as forty and fifty dollars for a single sound red, black or +silver shell, and from fifty to one hundred dollars for a good green +or blue one. Incidentally, it is interesting to note that the Chinese +consumed the _abalone_ meat in large quantities. + +Broom-making was a promising industry in the early sixties, the +Carpenters of Los Nietos and F. W. Gibson of El Monte being among the +pioneers in this handiwork. Several thousand brooms were made in that +year; and since they brought three dollars a dozen, and cost but +eleven cents each for the handles and labor, exclusive of the corn, a +good profit was realized. + +Major Edward Harold Fitzgerald, well known for campaigns against both +Indians and bandits, died on January 9th and was buried with military +honors. + +On January 10th, Bartholomew's Rocky Mountain Circus held forth on the +Plaza, people coming in from miles around to see the show. It was then +that the circus proprietor sought to quiet the nerves of the anxious +by the large-lettered announcement, "A strict Police is engaged for +the occasion!" + +The printing of news, editorials and advertisements in both English +and Spanish recalls again not only some amusing incidents in court +activities resulting from the inability of jurists and others to +understand the two languages, but also the fact that in the early +sixties sermons were preached in the Catholic Church at Los Angeles in +English and Spanish, the former being spoken at one mass, the latter +at another. English proper names such as John and Benjamin were +Spanished into Juan and Benito, and common Spanish terms persisted in +English advertisements, as when Don Juan Ávila and Fernando Sepúlveda, +in January, announced that they would run the horse _Coyote_ one +thousand _varas_, for three thousand dollars. In 1862, also, when +Syriaco Arza was executed for the murder of Frank Riley, the peddler, +and the prisoner had made a speech to the crowd, the Sheriff read the +warrant for the execution in both English and Spanish. Still another +illustration of the use of Spanish here, side by side with English, is +found in the fact that in 1858 the Los Angeles assessment rolls were +written in Spanish, although by 1860 the entries were made in English +only. + +A letter to the editor of the _Star_, published on January 28th, 1860, +will confirm my comments on the primitive school conditions in Los +Angeles in the first decade or two after I came. The writer complained +of the filthy condition of the Boys' Department, School No. 1, in +which, to judge by the mud, "the floor did not seem to have been swept +for months!" The editor then took up the cudgel, saying that the Board +formerly paid a man for keeping the schoolroom clean, but that the +Common Council had refused any longer to pass the janitor's bills; +adding that, in his opinion, the Council had acted wisely! If the +teacher had really wished the schoolroom floor to be clean, contended +the economical editor, he should have appointed a pupil to swing a +broom each day or, at least, _each week_, and otherwise perform the +necessary duties on behalf of the health of the school. + +The year 1860 witnessed the death of Don António María Lugo--brother +of Don José Ygnácio Lugo, grandfather of the Wolfskills--uncle of +General Vallejo and the father-in-law of Colonel Isaac Williams, who +preceded Lugo to the grave by four years. For a long time, Lugo lived +in a spacious adobe built in 1819 near the present corner of East +Second and San Pedro streets, and there the sons, for whom he obtained +the San Bernardino _rancho_, were born. In earlier days, or from 1813, +Don António lived on the San António Ranch near what is now Compton; +and so well did he prosper there that eleven leagues were not enough +for the support of his cattle and flocks. It was a daughter of Lugo +who, having married a Perez and being made a widow, became the wife of +Stephen C. Foster, her daughter in turn marrying Wallace Woodworth and +becoming María Antónia Perez de Woodworth; and Lugo, who used to visit +them and the business establishments of the town, was a familiar +figure as a sturdy _caballero_ in the streets of Los Angeles, his +ornamental sword strapped in Spanish-soldier fashion to his +equally-ornamental saddle. Don António died about the first of +February, aged eighty-seven years. + +About the middle of February, John Temple fitted up the large hall +over the City Market as a theater, providing for it a stage some +forty-five by twenty feet in size--in those days considered an +abundance of platform space--and a "private box" on each side, whose +possession became at once the ambition of every Los Angeles gallant. +Temple brought an artist from San Francisco to paint the scenery, Los +Angeles then boasting of no one clever enough for the work; and the +same genius supervised the general decoration of the house. What was +considered a record-breaking effort at making the public comfortable +was undertaken in furnishing the parquet with armchairs and in filling +the gallery with two tiers of raised benches, guaranteeing some chance +of looking over any broad _sombreros_ in front; and to cap the +enterprise, Temple brought down a company of players especially to +dedicate his new house. About February 20th, the actors arrived on the +old _Senator_; and while I do not recall who they were or what they +produced, I believe that they first held forth on Washington's +Birthday when it was said: "The scenery is magnificent, surpassing +anything before exhibited in this city." + +The spring of 1860 was notable for the introduction of the Pony +Express as a potent factor in the despatch of transcontinental mail; +and although this new service never included Los Angeles as one of its +terminals, it greatly shortened the time required and, naturally if +indirectly, benefited the Southland. Speed was, indeed, an ambition of +the new management, and some rather extraordinary results were +attained. About April 20th, soon after the Pony Express was started, +messages were rushed through from St. Louis to San Francisco in eight +and a half days; and it was noised about that the Butterfields planned +a rival pony express, over a route three hundred miles shorter, that +would reach the Coast in seven days. About the end of April, mail from +London and Liverpool reached Los Angeles in twenty or twenty-one days; +and I believe that the fastest time that the Pony Express ever made +was in March, 1861, when President Lincoln's message was brought here +in seven days and seventeen hours. This was somewhat quicker than the +passage of the report about Fort Sumter, a month afterward, which +required twelve days, and considerably faster than the transmission, +by the earlier methods of 1850, of the intelligence that California +had been admitted to the Union--a bit of news of the greatest possible +importance yet not at all known here, I have been told, until six +weeks after Congress enacted the law! Which reminds me that the death +of Elizabeth Barrett Browning, the poet, although occurring in Italy +on June 29th, 1861, was first announced in Los Angeles on the +seventeenth of the following August! + +In February or March, the sewer crossing Los Angeles Street and +connecting the Bella Union with the _zanja_ (which passed through the +premises of Francis Mellus) burst, probably as the result of the +recent rains, discharging its contents into the common yard; and in +short order Mellus found himself minus two very desirable tenants. For +a while, he thought of suing the City; and then he decided to stop the +sewer effectually. As soon as it was plugged up, however, the Bella +Union found itself cut off from its accustomed outlet, and there was +soon a great uproar in that busy hostelry. The upshot of the matter +was that the Bella Union proprietors commenced suit against Mellus. +This was the first sewer--really a small, square wooden pipe--whose +construction inaugurated an early chapter in the annals of +sewer-building and control in Los Angeles. + +Competition for Government trade was keen in the sixties, and +energetic efforts were made by merchants to secure their share of the +crumbs, as well as the loaves, that might fall from Uncle Sam's table. +For that reason, Captain Winfield Scott Hancock easily added to his +popularity as Quartermaster, early in 1860, by preparing a map in +order to show the War Department the relative positions of the various +military posts in this district, and to emphasize the proximity of Los +Angeles. + +One day in the Spring a stranger called upon me with the interesting +information that he was an inventor, which led me to observe that +someone ought to devise a contrivance with which to pluck oranges--an +operation then performed by climbing into the trees and pulling the +fruit from the branches. Shortly after the interview, many of us went +to the grove of Jean Louis Sainsevain to see a simple, but ingenious +appliance for picking the golden fruit. A pair of pincers on a light +pole were operated from below by a wire; and when the wire was pulled, +the fruit, quite unharmed by scratch or pressure, fell safely into a +little basket fastened close to the pincers. In the same year, Pierre +Sainsevain established the first California wine house in New York and +bought the Cucamonga vineyard, where he introduced new and better +varieties of grapes. But bad luck overtook him. In 1870, grasshoppers +ate the leaves and destroyed the crop. + +Small as was the population of Los Angeles County at about this time, +there was nevertheless for a while an exodus to Texas, due chiefly to +the difficulty experienced by white immigrants in competing with +Indian ranch and vineyard laborers. + +Toward the middle of March, much interest was manifested in the +welfare of a native Californian named Serbo--sometimes erroneously +given as Serbulo and even Cervelo--Varela who, under the influence of +bad whiskey, had assaulted and nearly killed a companion, and who +seemed certain of a long term in the State prison. It was recalled, +however, that when in the fall of 1846, the fiendish Flores, resisting +the invasion of the United States forces, had captured a number of +Americans and condemned them to be dragged out and shot, Varela, then +a soldier under Flores, and a very brave fellow, broke from the ranks, +denounced the act as murder, declared that the order should never be +carried out except over his dead body, and said and did such a number +of things more or less melodramatic that he finally saved the lives of +the American prisoners. Great sympathy was expressed, therefore, when +it was discovered that this half-forgotten hero was in the toils; and +few persons, if any, were sorry when Varela was induced to plead +guilty to assault and battery, enabling the court to deal leniently +with him. Varela became more and more addicted to strong drink; and +some years later he was the victim of foul play, his body being found +in an unfrequented part of the town. + +A scrap-book souvenir of the sixties gives us an idyllic view of +contemporaneous pueblo life, furnishing, at the same time, an idea of +the newspaper English of that day. It reads as follows: + + With the exception of a little legitimate shooting affair + last Saturday night, by which some fellow had well-nigh the + top of his head knocked off, and one or two knock-downs and + drag-outs, we have had a very peaceful week indeed. Nothing + has occurred to disturb the even tenor of our way, and our + good people seem to be given up to the quiet enjoyment of + delicious fruits and our unequalled climate,--each one + literally under his own vine and fig tree, revelling in + fancy's flights, or luxuriating among the good things which + he finds temptingly at hand. + +The demand for better lighting facilities led the Common Council to +make a contract, toward the end of March, with Tiffany & Wethered, who +were given a franchise to lay pipes through the streets and to +establish gas-works here; but the attempt proved abortive. + +In this same year, the trip east by the Overland Stage Route, which +had formerly required nearly a month, was accomplished in eighteen or +nineteen days; and toward the end of March, the Overland Company +replaced the "mud-wagons" they had been using between Los Angeles and +San Francisco with brightly-painted and better-upholstered Concord +coaches. Then the Los Angeles office was on Spring Street, between +First and Second--on the lot later bought by Louis Roeder for a +wagon-shop, and now the site of the Roeder Block; and there, for the +price of two hundred dollars, tickets could be obtained for the entire +journey to St. Louis. + +Foreign coin circulated in Los Angeles, as I have said, for many +years, and even up to the early sixties Mexican money was accepted at +par with our own. Improved facilities for intercourse with the outside +world, however, affected the markets here, and in the spring of that +year several merchants refused to receive the specie of our southern +neighbor at more than its actual value as silver. As a result, these +dealers, though perhaps but following the trend elsewhere, were +charged openly with a combination to obtain an illegitimate profit. + +In 1860, while Dr. T. J. White was Postmaster, a regulation was made +ordering all mail not called for to be sent to the Dead Letter Office +in Washington, within a week after such mail had been advertised; but +it was not until the fall of 1871 that this order was really put into +operation in our neighborhood. For some time this worked great +hardship on many people living in the suburbs who found it impossible +to call promptly for their mail, and who learned too late that +letters intended for them had been returned to the sender or +destroyed. + +Political enthusiasm was keen in early days, as is usual in small +towns, and victorious candidates, at least, knew how to celebrate. On +Monday, May 7th, 1860, Henry Mellus was elected Mayor; and next day, +he and the other City officers paraded our streets in a four-horse +stagecoach with a brass band. The Mayor-elect and his _confrères_ were +stuffed inside the hot, decorated vehicle, while the puffing musicians +bounced up and down on the swaying top outside, like pop-corn in a +frying-pan. + +More than a ripple of excitement was produced in Los Angeles about the +middle of May, when Jack Martin, Billy Holcomb and Jim Ware, in from +Bear Valley, ordered provisions and paid for the same in shining gold +dust. It was previously known that they had gone out to hunt for bear, +and their sudden return with this precious metal, together with their +desire to pick up a few appliances such as are not ordinarily used in +trapping, made some of the hangers-on about the store suspicious. The +hunters were secretly followed, and were found to return to what is +now Holcomb Valley; and then it was learned that gold had been +discovered there about the first of the month. For a year or two, many +mining camps were formed in Holcomb and Upper Holcomb valleys, and in +that district the town of Belleville was founded; but the gold, at +first apparently so plentiful, soon gave out, and the excitement +incidental to the discovery subsided. + +While some men were thus digging for treasure, others sought fortune +in the deep. Spearing sharks, as well as whales, was an exciting +industry at this period; sharks running in large numbers along the +coast, and in the waters of San Pedro Bay. In May, Orin Smith of Los +Angeles, with the aid of his son, in one day caught one hundred and +three sharks, from which he took only the livers; these, when boiled, +yielding oil which, burned fairly well, even in its crude state. +During the next year, shark-hunting near Rattlesnake Island continued +moderately remunerative. + +Sometime in the spring, another effort was made to establish a tannery +here and hopes were entertained that an important trade might thus be +founded. But the experiment came to naught, and even to-day Los +Angeles can boast of no tannery such as exists in several other +California cities. + +With the approach of summer, Elijah and William H. Workman built a +brick dwelling on Main Street, next to Tom Rowan's bakery, and set +around it trees of several varieties. The residence, then one of the +prettiest in town, was built for the boys' mother; and there, with +her, they dwelt. + +That sectarian activity regarding public schools is nothing new in Los +Angeles may be shown from an incident, not without its humorous side, +of the year 1860. T. J. Harvey appeared with a broadside in the press, +protesting against the reading of the Bible in schoolrooms, and saying +that he, for one, would "never stand it, come what may." Some may +still remember his invective and his pyrotechnical conclusion: +"_Revolution! War!! Blood!!!_" + +During Downey's incumbency as Governor, the Legislature passed a law, +popularly known as the Bulkhead Bill, authorizing the San Francisco +Dock and Wharf Company to build a stone bulkhead around the +water-front of the Northern city, in return for which the company was +to have the exclusive privilege of collecting tolls and wharfage for +the long period of fifty years, a franchise the stupendous value of +which even the projectors of that date could scarcely have +anticipated. Downey, when the measure came before him for final +action, vetoed the bill and thus performed a judicious act--perhaps +the most meritorious of his administration. + +Whether Downey, who on January 9th had become Governor, was really +popular for any length of time, even in the vicinity of his home, may +be a question; but his high office and the fact that he was the first +Governor from the Southland assured him a hearty welcome whenever he +came down here from the capital. In June Downey returned to Los +Angeles, accompanied by his wife, and took rooms at the Bella Union +hotel, and besides the usual committee visits, receptions and speeches +from the balcony, arranged in honor of the distinguished guests, +there was a salute of thirteen guns, fired with all ceremony, which +echoed and re-echoed from the hillsides. + +In 1860, a number of delegates, including Casper Behrendt and myself, +were sent to San Francisco to attend the laying of the corner-stone, +on the twenty-fifth of June, of the Masonic Temple at the corner of +Post and Montgomery streets. We made the trip when the weather was not +only excessively hot, but the sand was a foot deep and headway very +slow; so that, although we were young men and enjoyed the excursion, +we could not laugh down all of the disagreeable features of the +journey. It was no wonder, therefore, that when we arrived at Visalia, +where we were to change horses, Behrendt wanted a shave. While he was +in the midst of this tonsorial refreshment, the stage started on its +way to San Francisco; and as Behrendt heard it passing the shop, he +ran out--with one side of his face smooth and clean, while the other +side was whiskered and grimy--and tried to stop the disappearing +vehicle. Despite all of his yelling and running, however, the stage +did not stop; and finally, Behrendt fired his pistol several times +into the air. This attracted the attention of the sleepy driver, who +took the puffing passenger on board; whereupon the rest of us chaffed +him about his singular appearance. Behrendt[19] did not have much +peace of mind until we reached the Plaza Hotel at San Juan Bautista +("a relic," as someone has said, "of the distant past, where men and +women played billiards on horseback, and trees bore human fruit"), +situated in a sweet little valley, mountain-girdled and well watered; +where he was able to complete his shave and thus restore his +countenance to its normal condition. + +In connection with this anecdote of the trip to San Francisco, I may +add another story. On board the stage was Frederick J. McCrellish, +editor of the _Alta California_--the principal Coast paper, bought by +McCrellish & Company in 1858--and also Secretary of the telegraph +company at that time building its line between San Francisco and Los +Angeles. When we reached a point between Gilroy and Visalia, which +was the temporary terminus of the telegraph from San Francisco, +McCrellish spoke with some enthusiasm of the Morse invention and +invited everybody on the stage to send telegrams, at his expense, to +his friends. I wrote out a message to my brother in San Francisco, +telling him about the trip as far as I had completed it, and passed +the copy to the operator at the clicking instrument. It may be hard +for the reader to conceive that this would be an exciting episode in a +man's life; but since my first arrival in the Southland there had been +no telegraphic communication between Los Angeles and the outside +world, and the remembrance of this experience at the little wayside +station was never to be blotted from my mind. I may also add that of +that committee sent to the Masonic festivities in San Francisco, +Behrendt and I are now the only surviving members. + +It has been stated that the population of Los Angeles in 1850 was but +sixteen hundred and ten. How true that is I cannot tell. When I came +to the city in 1853, there were some twenty-six hundred people. In the +summer of 1860 a fairly accurate census was made, and it was found +that our little town had four thousand three hundred and ninety-nine +inhabitants. + +Two distinguished military men visited Los Angeles in the midsummer of +1860. The first was General James Shields who, in search of health, +arrived by the Overland Route on the twenty-fourth of July, having +just finished his term in the Senate. The effect of wounds received at +the battle of Cerro Gordo, years before, and reports as to the climate +of California started the General westward; and quietly he alighted +from the stage at the door of the Bella Union. After a while, General +Shields undertook the superintending of a Mexican mine; but at the +outbreak of the Civil War, although not entirely recovered, he +hastened back to Washington and was at once appointed a +Brigadier-General of volunteers. The rest of his career is known. + +A week later, General, or as he was then entitled, Colonel John C. +Frémont drew up at the Plaza. His coming to this locality in +connection with the Temescal tin mine and Mariposa forestry interests +had been heralded from Godey's ranch some days before; and when he +arrived on Tuesday, July 31st, in company with Leonidas Haskell and +Joseph C. Palmer, the Republicans were out in full force and fired a +salute of twenty-five guns. In the evening, Colonel Frémont was waited +upon in the parlors of the Bella Union by a goodly company, under the +leadership of the Republican Committee, although all classes, +irrespective of politics, united to pay the celebrated California +pioneer the honors due him. + +Alexander Godey, to whose _rancho_ I have just referred, was a man of +importance, with a very extensive cattle-range in Kern County not far +from Bakersfield, where he later lived. He occasionally came to town, +and was an invariable visitor at my store, purchasing many supplies +from me. These and other provisions, which Godey and his neighbors +sent for, were transported by burro- or mule-train to the ranches in +care of Miguel Ortiz, who had his headquarters in Los Angeles. Loading +these so-called pack-trains was an art: by means of ropes and slats of +wood, merchandise was strapped to the animal's sides and back in such +a fashion that it could not slip, and thus a heavy, well-balanced load +was conveyed over the plain and the mountain trails. + +By 1860, the Germans were well-organized and active here in many ways, +a German Benevolent Society, called the Eintracht, which met Tuesday +and Friday evenings in the Arcadia Block for music drill under +Director Heinsch, affording stimulating entertainment and +accomplishing much good. The Turnverein, on the other hand, took an +interest in the success of the Round House, and on March 12th put up a +liberty pole on top of the oddly-shaped building. Lager beer and other +things deemed by the Teutonic brethren essential to a Garden of +Paradise and to such an occasion were freely dispensed; and on that +day Lehman was in all his glory. + +A particular feature of this Garden of Paradise was a cabbage, about +which have grown up some traditions of the Brobdingnagian sort that +the reader may accept _in toto_ or with a grain of salt. It was +planted when the place was opened, and is said to have attained, by +December, 1859, a height of twelve feet, "with a circumference" (so +averred an ambiguous chronicler of the period, referring doubtless to +crinolines) "equal to that of any fashionably-attired city belle +measuring eight or ten feet." By July, 1860, the cabbage attained a +growth, so the story goes, of fourteen feet four inches although, +George always claimed, it had been cropped twenty or more times and +its leaves used for _Kohlslau_, _Sauerkraut_ and goodness knows what. +I can afford the modern reader no better idea of Lehman's personality +and resort than by quoting the following contemporaneous, if not very +scholarly, account: + + THE GARDEN OF PARADISE. Our friend George of the Round + House, who there keeps a garden with the above captivating + name, was one of the few who done honor to the Fourth. He + kept the National Ensign at the fore, showed his + fifteen-foot cabbage, and dealt _Lager_ to admiring crowds + all day. + +Among the popular pleasure-resorts of 1860 was the Tivoli Garden on +the Wolfskill Road, conducted by Charles Kaiser, who called his +friends together by placarding the legend, "Hurrah for the Tivoli!" +Music and other amusements were provided every Sunday, from two +o'clock, and dancing could be enjoyed until late in the night; and as +there was no charge for admission, the place was well patronized. + +When the Fourth of July, 1859, approached and no preparation had been +made to observe the holiday, some children who were being instructed +in calisthenics by A. F. Tilden began to solicit money, their childish +enthusiasm resulting in the appointing of a committee, the collecting +of four hundred dollars, and a picnic in Don Luis Sainsevain's +enclosed garden. A year later, Tilden announced that he would open a +place for gymnastic exercises in "Temple's New Block;" charging men +three dollars for the use of the apparatus and the privilege of a +shower-bath, and training boys at half rates. This was the origin of +systematic physical culture in Los Angeles. + +FOOTNOTE: + +[19] Died November 19th, 1913. + + + + +CHAPTER XIX + +STEAM-WAGON--ODD CHARACTERS + +1860 + + +Early in 1860, Phineas Banning and J. J. Tomlinson, the energetic +rivals in lighterage and freighting at San Pedro, embarked as lumber +merchants, thereby anticipating the enormous trade that has flowed for +years past from the North through Los Angeles to Southern California +and Arizona. Having many teams, they hauled lumber, when traffic was +not sufficient to keep their wagon-trains busy, from the harbor to the +city or even, when there was need, to the _ranchos_. It must have been +in the same year that F. P. F. Temple, at a cost of about forty +thousand dollars for lumber alone, fenced in a wide acreage, at the +same time building large and substantial barns for his stock. By the +summer of that year, Banning was advertising lumber, delivered in Los +Angeles; and from October 1st, Banning & Hinchman had an office near +the northern junction of Main and Spring streets. A couple of years +before, Banning in person had directed the driving of seventeen mule +teams, from San Pedro to Fort Yuma, covering, in twelve or thirteen +days, the two hundred and thirty miles of barely passable road. The +following March, Banning and Tomlinson, who had so often opposed each +other even in the courts, came to an understanding and buried the +hatchet for good. + +At this time, Joseph Everhardt, who, with Frederick W. Koll, had +conducted the Lafayette Hotel, sold out and moved to San Francisco, +marrying Miss R. Mayer, now John Lang's widow, sister-in-law of Kiln +Messer. Later, Everhardt went to Sonoma and then to Victoria, B. C., +in each place making his mark; and in the latter city he died. + +Like both Messer and Lang, Everhardt had passed through varied and +trying experiences. The owner of the Russ Garden restaurant in 1849, +in lively San Francisco, he came to Los Angeles and took hold of the +hotel Lafayette. With him was a partner named Fucht; but a free fight +and display of shooting irons, such as often enlivened a California +hotel, having sent the guests and hangers-on scurrying to quarters, +induced Fucht to sell out his interests in very short order, whereupon +Everhardt took in with him Frederick W. Koll, who lived on a site now +the southeast corner of Seventh and Spring streets where he had an +orange-grove. + +Pursuing Indians was dangerous in the extreme, as Robert Wilburn found +when he went after some twenty head of cattle stolen from Felix +Bachman by Pi-Ute or Paiute Indians in January, 1860, during one of +their marauding expeditions into California. Wilburn chased the red +men but he never came back; and when his body was found, it was +pierced with three or four arrows, probably shot at him simultaneously +by as many of the cattle-thieves. + +Don Tomás A. Sanchez, Sheriff from 1860 to 1867, had a record for +physical courage and prowess, having previously been an officer under +Pico in the Mexican War days, and having later aided Pico in his +efforts to punish Barton's murderers. Sanchez had property; and in +1887 a patent was granted his estate for four thousand or more acres +in the ranch known as _Ciénega ó Paso de la Tijera_. + +Destructive fires in the open country, if not as common as now, still +occasionally stirred our citizens. Such a fire broke out in the San +Fernando Valley in the middle of July, and spread so rapidly that a +square mile and a half of territory was denuded and charred. Not only +were there no organized means to fight such fires, but men were +compelled to sound the alarm through couriers on horseback; and if the +wind happened to be blowing across the plains, even the fleetest +horseman had all he could do to avoid the flames and reach in time the +widely-separated _rancheros_. Here I may add that as late as the +sixties all of the uninhabited parts of Los Angeles, especially to +the of Main Street, were known as plains, and "crossing the plains" +was an expression commonly used with a peculiarly local significance. + +So wretched were the roads in the early decades after my arrival, and +so many were the plans proposed for increasing the rapidity of travel, +that great curiosity was excited in 1860 when it was announced that +Phineas Banning had bought a "steam-wagon" and would soon introduce a +kind of vehicle such as Los Angeles, at least, had never before seen. +This steam-wagon was a traction engine built by J. Whitman & Sons, at +Leeds, England, and was already on its way across the ocean. It had +been ordered by Richard A. Ogden, of San Francisco, for the Patagonia +Copper Mining Company, a trial before shipping having proved that, +with a load of thirty-eight tons, the engine could attain a speed of +five miles an hour; and Banning paid handsomely for the option of +purchasing the vehicle, on condition that it would ultimately prove a +success. + +The announcement was made in April, and by early June the engine had +reached San Francisco where it made the run to Mission Dolores in +three-quarters of an hour. All the San Francisco papers told of "the +truly wonderful machine," one reporter averring that "the engineer had +so perfect control that a visit was made to various parts of the city, +to the astonishment and gratification of the multitude;" and since +these accounts were immediately copied by the Los Angeles papers +(which added the official announcement that Captain Hughes had loaded +the engine on board his schooner, the _Lewis Perry_, and was bringing +it south as fast as he could), popular excitement rose like the +mercury in summer, and but one more report was needed to make it the +absorbing talk of the hour. That came on the twenty-eighth of July, +when the _Star_ announced: "The steam-wagon has arrived at San Pedro;" +and it was not long before many persons went down to the port to get a +sight of the wonderful object. + +And wait they did. Although the _Star_ said that "all our citizens +were anxiously, hourly, expecting to see Major Banning heave in sight +at the foot of Main Street," no Banning hove! Instead, on the fourth +of August, the same _Star_ broke forth with this lament: "The +steam-wagon is at San Pedro, and we regret to learn that it is likely +to remain there. So far, all attempts to reach this city with freight +have failed." And that was the end of the steam-wagon experiment here. + +In every community there are characters who, for one reason or +another, develop among their fellows a reputation for oddity. We have +all seen the good-natured, rather stout old gentleman, whose claim to +dignity is his old-fashioned Prince Albert and rather battered-looking +silk hat, but who, although he boasts many friends, is never +successful in the acquisition of this world's goods. We have seen, +too, the vender of ice-cream, _tamales_ or similar commodity, who in +his youth had been an opera singer or actor, but whose too intensive +thirst rendered him impossible in his profession and brought him far +down in the world. Some were dangerous criminals; some were harmless, +but obnoxious; others still were harmless and amusing. Many such +characters I have met during my sixty years in Los Angeles; and each +filled a certain niche, even those whose only mission was to furnish +their fellows with humor or amusement having thus contributed to the +charm of life. + +Viejo Cholo, or Old Half-breed, a Mexican over sixty years of age who +was never known by any other name, was such an eccentric character. He +was half blind; wore a pair of white linen pantaloons, and for a +mantle used an old sheet. This he threw over his shoulders; and thus +accoutered, he strutted about the streets like a Spanish cavalier. His +cane was a broom-handle; his lunch-counter, the swill-bucket; and when +times were particularly bad, Viejo begged. The youngsters of the +pueblo were the bane of Cholo's existence and the torment of his +infirmity and old age. + +Cholo was succeeded by Pinikahti, who was half Indian and half +Mexican. He was not over four feet in height and had a flat nose, a +stubby beard and a face badly pockmarked; and he presented, +altogether, as unkempt and obnoxious an appearance as one might +imagine. Pinikahti was generally attired in a well-worn straw hat, the +top of which was missing, and his long, hair stuck out in clumps and +snarls. A woolen undershirt and a pair of overalls completed his +costume, while his toes, as a rule, protruded from his enormous boots. +Unlike Viejo Cholo, Pinikahti was permitted to go unmolested by the +juvenile portion of the population, inasmuch as, though half-witted, +he was somewhat of an entertainer; for it was natural for him to play +the flute and--what was really interesting--he made his own +instruments out of the reed that grew along the river banks. Pinikahti +cut just the holes, I suppose, that produced what seemed to him proper +harmony, and on these home-made flutes performed such airs as his +wandering fancy suggested. He always played weird tunes and danced +strange Indian dances; and through these crude gifts he became, as I +have said, sufficiently popular to enjoy some immunity. Nevertheless, +he was a professional beggar; and whatever he did to afford amusement, +was done, after all, for money. This was easily explained, for money +alone would buy _aguardiente_, and Pinikahti had little use for +anything else. _Aguardiente_, as the word was commonly used in +Southern California, was a native brandy, full of hell fire; and so +the poor half-breed was always drunk. One day Pinikahti drank a glass +too much, and this brought about such a severance of his ties with +beautiful Los Angeles that his absorption of one spirit released, at +last, the other. + +Sometime in the eventful sixties, a tall, angular, muscular-looking +woman was here, who went by the singular _sobriquet_ of Captain Jinks, +a title which she received from a song then very popular, the first +couplet of which ran something like this: + + I'm Captain Jinks of the Horse Marines, + I feed my horse on pork and beans! + +She half strode, half jerked her way along the street, as though +scanning the lines of that ditty with her feet. She was strong for +woman's rights, she said; and she certainly looked it. + +Chinamen were not only more numerous by 1860, but they had begun to +vary their occupations, many working as servants, laundrymen or farm +hands. In March, a Chinese company was also organized to compete for +local fish trade. + +In 1860, Émile Bordenave & Company opened the Louisiana Coffee Saloon +as a French restaurant. Roast duck and oysters were their specialty, +and they charged fifty cents a meal. But they also served "a plate at +one bit."[20] Some years later, there was a two-bit restaurant known +as Brown's on Main Street, near the United States Hotel, where a good, +substantial meal was served. + +James, often called Santiago Johnson, who, for a short time prior to +his death about 1860 or 1861, was a forwarder of freight at San Pedro, +came to Los Angeles in 1833 with a cargo of Mexican and Chinese goods, +and after that owned considerable ranch property. In addition to +ranching, he also engaged extensively in cattle-raising. + +Peter, popularly known as Pete or Bully Wilson, a native of Sweden, +came to Los Angeles about 1860. He ran a one horse dray; and as soon +as he had accumulated sufficient money, he bought, for twelve hundred +dollars, the southeast corner of Spring and First streets, where he +had his stable. He continued to prosper; and his family still enjoy +the fruits of his industry. + +The same year, George Smith started to haul freight and baggage. He +had four horses hitched to a sombre-looking vehicle nicknamed the +_Black Swan_. + +J. D. Yates was a grocer and provision-dealer of 1860, with a store on +the Plaza. + +I have referred to Bishop Amat as presiding over the Diocese of +Monterey and Los Angeles; but Los Angeles was linked with Monterey, +for a while, even in judicial matters. Beginning with 1860 or 1861 +(when Fletcher M. Haight, father of Governor H. H. Haight, was the +first Judge to preside), the United States Court for the Southern +District of California was held alternately in the two towns +mentioned, Colonel J. O. Wheeler serving as Clerk and the Court for +the Southern term occupying seven rooms of the second story of John +Temple's Block. These alternate sessions continued to be held until +about 1866 when the tribunal for the Southern District ceased to exist +and Angeleños were compelled to apply to the court in San Francisco. + +For years, such was the neglect of the Protestant burial ground that +in 1860 caustic criticism was made by each newspaper discussing the +condition of the cemetery: there was no fence, headstones were +disfigured or demolished, and there was little or no protection to the +graves. As a matter of fact, when the cemetery on Fort Hill was +abandoned, but few of the bodies were removed. + +By 1860, the New England Fire Insurance Company, of Hartford, +Connecticut, was advertising here through its local agent, H. +Hamilton--our friend of the Los Angeles _Star_. Hamilton used to +survey the applicants' premises, forward the data to William Faulkner, +the San Francisco representative, who executed the policy and mailed +the document back to Los Angeles. After a while, Samuel Briggs, with +Wells Fargo & Co., represented the Phoenix Insurance Company. + +H. Newmark & Company also sold insurance somewhat later, representing +the Commercial Union Insurance Company. About 1880, however, they +disposed of their insurance interests to Maurice Kremer, whose main +competitor was W. J. Brodrick; and from this transaction developed the +firm of Kremer, Campbell & Company, still in that business. Not only +in this connection but elsewhere in these memoirs it may be noted how +little specialization there was in earlier days in Los Angeles; in +fact it was not until about 1880 that this process, distinctive of +economic progress, began to appear in Los Angeles. I myself have +handled practically every staple that makes up the very great +proportion of merchandising activity, whereas my successors of to-day, +as well as their competitors, deal only in groceries and kindred +lines. + +Two brothers, Émile and Théophile Vaché, in the fall of 1860, started +what has become the oldest firm--Vaché Frères--in the local wine +business, at first utilizing the Bernard residence at Alameda and +Third streets, in time used by the Government as a bonded warehouse. +Later, they removed to the building on Aliso Street once occupied by +the Medical College, where the cellars proved serviceable for a +winery. There they attempted the manufacture of cream of tartar from +wine-crystals, but the venture was not remunerative. In 1881, the +Vachés, joined by their brother Adolphe, began to grow grapes in the +Barton Vineyard in San Bernardino County, and some time afterward they +bought near-by land and started the famous Brookside Vineyard. Émile +is now dead; while Théophile, who retired and returned to Europe in +1892, retaining an interest in the firm of T. Vaché & Company, passes +his hours pleasantly on the picturesque island of St. George d'Oléron, +in the Charente Inférieure, in his native France. + +On September 21st, Captain W. S. Hancock, who first came to Los +Angeles in connection with the expedition against the Mojave Indians +in 1858, sought to establish a new kind of express between Los Angeles +and Fort Mojave, and sent out a camel in charge of Greek George to +make the trial trip. When they had been gone two and a half days, the +regular express messenger bound for Los Angeles met them at Lane's +Crossing, apparently in none too promising a condition; which later +gave rise to a report that the camel had died on the desert. This +occasioned numerous newspaper squibs _à propos_ of both the speed and +the staying powers of the camel as contrasted with those of the burro; +and finally, in October, the following announcement appeared placarded +throughout the town: + + BY POULTERER, DE RO &. ELDRIDGE ----OFFICE AND + SALESROOM, CORNER CALIFORNIA & FRONT STREETS, SAN + FRANCISCO. + + PEREMPTORY SALE OF BACTRIAN CAMELS IMPORTED FROM THE AMOOR + RIVER EX CAROLINE E. FOOTE. + + ON WEDNESDAY, OCT. 10, 1860, WE WILL SELL AT PUBLIC AUCTION + IN LOTS TO SUIT PURCHASERS, FOR CASH, 13 BACTRIAN CAMELS, + + From a cold and mountainous country, comprising 6 males and + 7 females, (5 being with young,) all in fine health and + condition. + + * * * For further particulars, inquire of the Auctioneers. + +In 1858, Richard Garvey came to Los Angeles and entered the Government +service as a messenger, between this city and New Mexico, for Captain +W. S. Hancock. Later, he went to the Holcomb Valley mines, where he +first met Lucky Baldwin; and by 1872 he had disposed of some San +Bernardino mine properties at a figure which seemed to permit his +retirement and ease for the rest of his life. For the next twenty +years, he was variously employed, at times operating for Baldwin. +Garvey is at present living in Los Angeles. + +What was one of the last bullfights here, toward the end of September, +when a little child was trodden upon in the ring, reminds me not only +of the succeeding sports, including horse-racing, but as well that +Francis Temple should be credited with encouraging the importation and +breeding of good horses. In 1860 he paid seven thousand dollars, then +considered an enormous sum, for _Black Warrior_; and not long +afterward he bought _Billy Blossom_ at a fancy figure. + +A political gathering or two enlivened the year 1860. In July, when +the local sentiment was, to all appearances, strongly in favor of +Breckenridge and Lane, the Democratic candidates for President and +Vice-President, one hundred guns were fired in their honor; and great +was the jubilation of the Democratic hosts. A later meeting, under the +auspices of the Breckenridge Club, was held in front of the Montgomery +saloon on Main Street. Judge Dryden presided, and Senator Milton S. +Latham was the chief speaker. A number of ladies graced the occasion, +some seated in chairs near by and others remaining in their vehicles +drawn up in a semicircle before the speaker's stand. As a result of +all this effort, the candidates in question did lead in the race here, +but only by four votes. On counting the ballots the day after +election, it was found that Breckenridge had two hundred and +sixty-seven votes, while Douglas, the Independent Democratic nominee, +had polled two hundred and sixty-three. Of permanent interest, +perhaps, as showing the local sentiment on other questions of the +time, is that Lincoln received in Los Angeles only one hundred and +seventy-nine votes. + +Generally, a candidate persuaded his friends to nominate and endorse +him, but now and then one came forward and addressed the public +directly. In the fall of 1860, the following announcement appeared in +the _Southern News_: + + TO THE VOTERS OF LOS ANGELES TOWNSHIP: + + I am a candidate for the office of Justice of the Peace, + and I desire to say to you, frankly, that I want you all to + vote for me on the 6th of November next. I aspire to the + office for two reasons,--first, because I am vain enough to + believe that I am capable of performing the duties + required, with credit to myself and to the satisfaction of + all good citizens; second, because I am poor, and am + desiring of making an honest living thereby. + + WILLIAM G. STILL. + +During my first visit to San Francisco, in the fall of 1853, and while +_en route_ to Los Angeles, my attention was called to a line of +electric telegraph, then just installed between the Golden Gate and +the town, for use in reporting the arrival of vessels. About a month +later a line was built from San Francisco to Sacramento, Stockton and +around to San José. Nothing further, however, was done toward reaching +Southern California with the electric wire until the end of May or the +beginning of June, 1860, when President R. E. Raimond and Secretary +Fred. J. McCrellish (promoters of the Pacific & Atlantic Telegraph +Company, organized in 1858 to reach San António, Texas, and Memphis, +Tennessee) came to Los Angeles to lay the matter before our citizens. +Stock was soon subscribed for a line through the city and as far as +Fort Yuma, and in a few days Banning had fifty teams ready to haul the +telegraph poles, which were deposited in time along the proposed +route. In the beginning, interest was stimulated by the promise that +the telegraph would be in operation by the Fourth of July; but +Independence Day came and went, and the best that the telegraph +company could do was to make the ambiguous report that there were so +and so many "holes in the ground." Worse than that, it was announced, +toward the end of July, that the stock of wire had given out; and +still worse, that no more could be had this side of the Atlantic +States! That news was indeed discouraging; but by the middle of +August, twenty tons of wire were known to be on a clipper bound for +San Francisco, around the Horn, and five tons were being hurried here +by steamer. The wire arrived, in due season, and the most energetic +efforts were made to establish telegraphic communication between Los +Angeles and San Francisco. It was while McCrellish was slowly +returning to the North, in June, that I met him as narrated in a +previous chapter. + +Finally, at eight o'clock on October 8th, 1860, a few magic words from +the North were ticked out in the Los Angeles office of the telegraph +company. Two hours later, as those familiar with our local history +know, Mayor Henry Mellus sent the following memorable message to H. F. +Teschemacher, President of the San Francisco Board of Supervisors: + + Allow me, on behalf of the citizens of Los Angeles, to send + you greeting of fellowship and good-feeling on the + completion of the line of telegraph which now binds the two + cities together. + +Whereupon, the next day, President Teschemacher (who, by the way, was +a well-known importer, having brought the first almond seed from the +Mediterranean in the early fifties) replied to Mayor Mellus: + + Your despatch has just been received. On behalf of the + citizens of San Francisco, I congratulate Los Angeles, + trusting that the benefit may be mutual. + +A ball in Los Angeles fittingly celebrated the event, as will be seen +from the following despatch, penned by Henry D. Barrows, who was then +Southern California correspondent of the _Bulletin_: + + LOS ANGELES, October 9, 1860, 10.45 A. M. + + Here is the maiden salutation of Los Angeles to San + Francisco by lightning! This despatch--the first to the + press from this point--the correspondent of the _Bulletin_ + takes pleasure in communicating in behalf of his + fellow-citizens. The first intelligible communication by + the electric wire was received here last night at about + eight o'clock, and a few hours later, at a grand and + brilliant ball, given in honor of the occasion, despatches + were received from San Francisco announcing the complete + working of the entire line. Speeches were made in the + crowded ball-room by E. J. C. Kewen and J. McCrellish. News + of Colonel Baker's election in Oregon to the United States + Senate electrified the Republicans, but the Breckenridges + doubted it at first. Just before leaving yesterday, Senator + Latham planted the first telegraph pole from this point + east, assisted by a concourse of citizens. + +Barrows' telegram concluded with the statement, highly suggestive of +the future commercial possibilities of the telegraph, that the steamer +_Senator_ would leave San Pedro that evening with three thousand or +more boxes of grapes. + +On October 16th, the steamer _J. T. Wright_, named after the +boat-owner and widely advertised as "new, elegant, and fast," arrived +at San Pedro, in charge of Captain Robert Haley; and many persons +professed to see in her appearance on the scene new hope for +beneficial coastwise competition. After three or four trips, however, +the steamer was withdrawn. + +Leonard John Rose, a German by birth, and brother-in-law of H. K. S. +O'Melveny, arrived with his family by the Butterfield Stage Route in +November, having fought and conquered, so to speak, every step of his +way from Illinois, from which State, two years before, he had set out. +Rose and other pioneers tried to reach California along the +Thirty-fifth parallel, a route surveyed by Lieutenant Beale but +presenting terrific hardships; on the sides of mountains, at times, +they had to let down their wagons by ropes, and again they almost died +of thirst. The Mojave Indians, too, set upon them and did not desist +until seventeen Indians had been killed and nine whites were slain or +wounded, Rose himself not escaping injury. With the help of other +emigrants, Rose and his family managed to reach Albuquerque, where +within two years in the hotel business he acquired fourteen thousand +dollars. Then, coming to Los Angeles, he bought from William Wolfskill +one hundred and sixty acres near the old Mission of San Gabriel, and +so prospered that he was soon able to enlarge his domain to over two +thousand acres. He laid out a splendid vineyard and orange grove, and +being full of ambition, enterprise and taste, it was not long before +he had the show-place of the county. + +Apparently, Temple really inaugurated his new theater with the coming +to Los Angeles in November of that year of "the Great Star Company of +Stark & Ryer," as well as with the announcement made at the time by +their management: "This is the first advent of a theatrical company +here." Stark & Ryer were in Los Angeles for a week or two; and though +I should not vouch for them as stars, the little hall was crowded each +night, and almost to suffocation. There were no fire ordinances then +as to filling even the aisles and the window-sills, nor am I sure that +the conventional fire-pail, more often empty than filled with water, +stood anywhere about; but just as many tickets were sold, regardless +of the seating capacity. Tragedy gave way, alternately, to comedy, one +of the evenings being devoted to _The Honeymoon_; and as this was not +quite long enough to satisfy the onlookers, who had neither trains nor +boats to catch, there was an after-piece. In those days, when Los +Angeles was entirely dependent on the North for theatrical and similar +talent, it sometimes happened that the steamer was delayed or that the +"star" failed to catch the ship and so could not arrive when expected; +as a result of which patrons, who had journeyed in from the ranches, +had to journey home again with their curiosity and appetite for the +histrionic unsatisfied. + +Prisoners, especially Indians, were employed on public works. As late +as November, 1860, the Water Overseer was empowered to take out any +Indians who might be in the calaboose, and to use them for repairing +the highways and bridges. + +About 1860, Nathan Jacoby came to Los Angeles, on my invitation, as I +had known him in Europe; and he was with me about a year. When I sold +out, he entered the employ of M. Kremer and later went into business +for himself. As the senior partner of Jacoby Brothers, he died +suddenly in 1911. Associated with Nathan at different periods were his +brothers, Herman, Abraham, Morris, Charles and Lesser Jacoby, all of +them early arrivals. Of this group, Charles and Lesser, both active in +business circles in their day, are also dead. + +Toward the end of 1860, Solomon Lazard returned to France, to visit +his mother; but no sooner had he arrived at his old home and +registered, according to law, with the police, than he was arrested, +charged with having left his fatherland at the age of seventeen, +without having performed military duty. In spite of his American +citizenship, he was tried by court-martial and sentenced to a short +imprisonment; but through the intervention of the United States +Minister, Charles J. Faulkner--the author of the Fugitive Slave Law of +1850--and the clemency of the Emperor Napoleon III., he was finally +released. He had to furnish a substitute, however, or pay a fine of +fifteen hundred francs; and he paid the fine. At length, +notwithstanding his unpleasant experience, Lazard arrived in Los +Angeles about the middle of March, 1861. + +Tired of the wretched sidewalks, John Temple, in December, 1860, set +to work to introduce an improvement in front of his Main Street block, +an experiment that was watched with interest. Bricks were covered with +a thick coating of asphalt brought from La Brea Ranch, which was +smoothed while still warm and then sprinkled with sand; the +combination promising great durability. In the summer season, however, +the coating became soft and gluey, and was not comfortable to walk +upon. + +I have already spoken of the effect of heat and age on foodstuffs such +as eggs and butter, when brought over the hot desert between San +Bernardino and Los Angeles. This disadvantage continued for years; nor +was the succeeding plan of bringing provisions from San Francisco and +the North by way of the ocean without its obstacles. A. Ulyard, the +baker, realized the situation, and in December advertised "fresh +crackers, baked in Los Angeles, and superior to those half spoiled by +the sea voyage." + +Previous to the days of warehouses, and much before the advent of +railroads, the public hay-scale was an institution, having been +constructed by Francis Mellus in the dim past. Exposed to the +elements, it stood alone out in the center of Los Angeles Street, +somewhat south of Aliso; and in the lawless times of the young town +was a silent witness to the numerous crimes perpetrated in the +adjacent Calle de Los Negros. Onto its rough platform the neighboring +farmers drove their heavy loads, often waiting an hour or two for the +arrival of the owner, who alone had the key to its mysterious +mechanism. Speaking of this lack of a warehouse brings to my mind the +pioneer of 1850, Edouard Naud, who first attracted attention as a +clever pastryman with a little shop on Commercial Street where he made +a specialty of lady-fingers--selling them at fifty cents a dozen. +Engaging in the wool industry, he later become interested in wool and +this led him in 1878 to erect Naud's warehouse on Alameda Street, at +present known as the Union Warehouse.[21] Naud died in 1881. His son, +Edward, born in Los Angeles, is famous as an amateur _chef_ who can +prepare a French dinner that even a professional might be proud of. + +In May, as elsewhere stated, Henry Mellus was elected Mayor of Los +Angeles; and on the twenty-sixth of December he died--the first to +yield that office to the inexorable demands of Death. The news of his +demise called forth unfeigned expressions of regret; for Mellus was +not only a man of marked ability, but he was of genial temperament and +the soul of honor. + +FOOTNOTES: + +[20] Twelve and one-half cents. + +[21] Destroyed by fire on September 22d, 1915. + + + + +CHAPTER XX + +THE RUMBLINGS OF WAR + +1861 + + +The year 1861 dawned dark and foreboding. On the twentieth of the +preceding December, South Carolina had seceded, and along the Pacific, +as elsewhere, men were anxiously wondering what would happen next. +Threats and counter-threats clearly indicated the disturbed state of +the public mind; and when, near Charleston Harbor, a hostile shot was +fired at the _Star of the West_, the certainty of further trouble, +particularly with the coming inauguration of Lincoln, was everywhere +felt. + +Aside, however, from these disturbing events so much affecting +commercial life, the year, sandwiched between two wet seasons, was in +general a prosperous one. There were evil effects of the heavy rains, +and business in the spring was rather dull; but cattlemen, upon whose +success so many other people depended, took advantage of the favoring +conditions and profited accordingly. + +During the period of the flood in 1859-60, the river, as we have seen, +was impassable, and for months there was so much water in the bed, +ordinarily dry, that foot-passage was interrupted. In January, 1861, +therefore, the Common Council, under the influence of one of its +members, E. Moulton, whose dairy was in East Los Angeles, provided a +flimsy foot-bridge in his neighborhood. If my memory serves me, +construction was delayed, and so the bridge escaped the next winter's +flood, though it went down years later. + +On January 9th, the schooner _Lewis Perry_ arrived at anchorage, to be +towed across the bar and to the wharf by the little steamer[22] +_Comet_. This was the first sea-going vessel that had ever visited New +San Pedro with a full cargo, and demonstrated, it was thought by many, +that the port was easily navigable by vessels drawing eleven feet of +water or less! Comments of all kinds were made upon this event, one +scribe writing: + + We expect to see coasting steamers make their regular trips + to New Town, discharging freight and loading passengers on + the wharf, safe from the dangers of rough weather, instead + of lying off at sea, subjecting life and property to the + perils of southeast gales and the breakers. The _Senator_ + even, in the opinion of experienced persons, might easily + enter the channel on the easterly side of Dead Man's + Island, and thence find a safe passage in the Creek. _It + will yet happen!_ + +John M. Griffith came to Los Angeles in 1861, having four years +previously married a sister of John J. Tomlinson. With the latter he +formed a partnership in the passenger and freight-carrying business, +their firm competing with Banning & Company until 1868, when Tomlinson +died. + +This same year, at the age of about eighteen, Eugene Meyer arrived. He +first clerked for Solomon Lazard, in the retail dry-goods business; +and in 1867 he was admitted into partnership. On November 20th of that +year Meyer married Miss Harriet, the youngest daughter of Joseph +Newmark--who officiated. + +Felix Bachman, who came in 1853, was at various times in partnership +with Philip Sichel (after whom Sichel Street is named, and Councilman +in 1862), Samuel Laubheim and Ben Schloss, the firm being known as +Bachman & Company; and on Los Angeles Street near Commercial they +carried on the largest business in town. Bachman secured much Salt +Lake trade and in 1861 opposed high freight rates; but although well +off when he left here, he died a poor man in San Francisco, at the age +of nearly one hundred years. + + [Illustration: Winfield Scott Hancock] + + [Illustration: Albert Sidney Johnston] + + [Illustration: Los Angeles County in 1854 From a contemporary map] + + [Illustration: The Morris Adobe, once Frémont's Headquarters] + +In 1861, Adolph Junge arrived and established a drug-store in the +Temple Block, his only competitor being Theodore Wollweber; and there +he continued for nearly twenty years, one of his prescription books, +now in the County Museum, evidencing his activity. For a while, F. J. +Gieze, the well-known druggist for so many years on North Main Street, +and an arrival of '74, clerked for Junge. At the beginning of the +sixties, Dr. A. B. Hayward practiced medicine here, his office being +next to Workman Brothers' saddlery, on Main Street. Wollweber's name +recalls a practical joke of the late sixties, when some waggish friend +raised the cry that there was a bear across the river, and induced my +Teutonic neighbor to go in hot pursuit. After bracing himself for the +supreme effort, Wollweber shot the beast dead; only to learn that the +bear, a blind and feeble animal, was a favorite pet, and that it would +take just twenty-five dollars to placate the irate owner! + +The absence in general of shade trees was so noticeable that when John +Temple, on January 31st, planted a row facing Temple Building there +was the usual town gossip. Charley Ducommon followed Temple's example. +Previously, there had been several wide-spreading trees in front of +the Bella Union hotel, and it came to pass within the next five years +that many pepper-trees adorned the streets. + +In 1861, the Post Office was removed from North Spring Street to a +frame building on Main Street, opposite Commercial. About the same +time when, owing to floods, no mail arrived for three or four weeks +and someone facetiously hung out a sign announcing the office "To +Let!" the Washington postal authorities began issuing stamped +envelopes, of the values of twelve and twenty-four cents, for those +business men of Los Angeles and the Pacific Coast who were likely to +use the recently-developed Pony Express. + +Matthew Keller, or Don Mateo, as he was called, who died in 1881, was +a quaint personality of real ability, who had a shop on the northwest +corner of Los Angeles and Commercial streets, and owned the adjoining +store in which P. Beaudry had been in business. His operations were +original and his advertising unique, as will be seen from his +announcement in the _Star_ in February: + + M. KELLER, TO HIS CUSTOMERS + + You are hereby notified that the time has at last arrived + when you must pay up, without further delay, or I shall be + obliged to invoke the aid of the law and the lawyers. + + Your most ob't servant, + M. KELLER. + +Which warning was followed, in the next issue, by this: + + M. KELLER, TO HIS CUSTOMERS + + The Right of Secession Admitted! + + You are hereby notified that the time has arrived when you + must pay up, without further delay, or I shall be obliged + to invoke the aid of the law and the lawyers. + + After such settlement, slow-payers are requested to secede. + + M. KELLER. + + (to be augmented next week) + +This later advertisement, with the line in parenthesis, continued to +be printed, week after week, without change, _for at least twelve +months_. + +The following year, Keller, in flaring headlines, offered for sale the +front of his Los Angeles vineyard, facing on Aliso Street, in building +lots of twenty by one hundred feet, saying, in his prospectus: + + Great improvements are on the _tapis_ in this quarter. + Governor Downey and the intrepid Beaudry propose to open a + street to let the light of day shine in upon their dark + domains. On the Equerry side of Aliso Street, "what fine + legs your master has," must run to give way for more + permanent fixtures. Further on, the Prior estates are about + to be improved by the astute and far-seeing Templito; and + Keller sells lots on the sunny side of Aliso Street. The + map is on view at my office; come in and make your + selections,--first come, first served! Terms will be made + handy! + + M. KELLER. + +Nathaniel Pryor--sometimes known as Don Miguel N. Pryor or Prior--is +the pioneer referred to by Keller. At the age of thirty, it is said, +in 1828, he came here, and fifteen or twenty years later, about the +time that he was a _Regidor_ or Councilman, was one of eight or ten +Easterners who had farms within the pueblo district. His property, in +part a vineyard, included what is now Commercial to First streets and +possibly from Los Angeles Street to the river; on it was an adobe +which is still standing on Jackson Street, and is the only mud-brick +structure in that section. For a while, and probably because he had +loaned Pryor some money, F. P. F. Temple had an interest in the +estate. Pryor was twice married, having a son, Charles, by his first +wife, and a son, Nathaniel, Jr., by his second. Pablo Pryor of San +Juan was another son. The first Mrs. Pryor died about 1840, and is one +of the few--with the mother of Pio Pico--buried inside of the old +church at the Plaza. The second Mrs. Pryor, who inherited the +property, died about 1857. A granddaughter, Mrs. Lottie Pryor, is a +surviving member of this family. + +During the administration of Padre Blas Raho, a genial, broad-minded +Italian, several attempts were made, beginning with 1857 or 1858, to +improve the old church at the Plaza; and in 1861, the historic +edifice, so long unchanged, was practically rebuilt. The front adobe +wall, which had become damaged by rains, was taken down and +reconstructed of brick; some alterations were made in the tower; and +the interesting old tiled roof was replaced--to the intense regret of +later and more appreciative generations--with modern, less durable +shingles. A fence was provided, and trees, bushes and plants were set +out. The church was also frescoed, inside and out, by Henri Penelon, +the French pioneer artist and photographer, who painted upon the wall +the following inscription: + + _Los Fieles de Esta Parroquia á la Reina de los Angeles, 1861._[23] + +Early in March, Sanchez Street was opened by the Common Council. It +was opposite the northern section of Arcadia Block, passed through +the properties of Sanchez, Pico, Coronel and others, and terminated at +the Plaza. + +The Los Angeles Mounted Rifles, part of the five thousand militia +wanted by California, was organized on March 6th at a meeting in the +Court House presided over by George W. Gift, with M. J. Newmark, who +became an officer in the company, as Secretary. + +Late in March, John Fröhling rented from the City Fathers a space +under the Temple Market building for a wine cellar; and in December, +1860, at the close of his vintage, when he had conducted a hearty +harvest-home celebration, he filled the vault with pipes and other +casks containing twenty thousand or more gallons of native wines. In a +corner, a bar was speedily built; and by many Angeleños that day not +associated with at least one pilgrimage to Fröhling's cool and rather +obscure recesses was considered incomplete. + +Few who witnessed the momentous events of 1861 will forget the +fever-heat of the nation. The startling news of the attack on Fort +Sumter took twelve days by Pony Express to reach the Coast, the +overland telegraph not being completed until six months later; but +when, on the twenty-fourth of April, the last messenger in the relay +of riders dashed into San Francisco with the story, an excited +population was soon seething about the streets. San Francisco +instantly flashed the details south, awakening here much the same +mingled feelings of elation and sorrow. + +When the war thus broke out, Albert Sidney Johnston, a fellow-townsman +who had married a sister of Dr. J. S. Griffin, and who, in 1857, had +successfully placed Utah under Federal control, resigned from his +command as head of the Department of the Pacific--General Edwin V. +Sumner succeeding him--and, being a Southerner, left for the South, by +way of Warner's Ranch and the Overland Route, with about a hundred +companions, most of whom were intercepted at Fort Yuma through the +orders of Captain W. S. Hancock. According to Senator Cornelius Cole, +Sumner arrived at Johnston's headquarters in San Francisco after dark; +and in spite of Johnston's protest, insisted on assuming command at +once. Johnston took up arms for the Confederacy, and was made a +Brigadier-General; but at Shiloh he was killed, the news of his death +causing here the sincerest regret. I shall speak of the loss of one of +General Johnston's sons in the disaster to the _Ada Hancock_; another +son, William Preston, became President of Tulane University. + +Others of our more enthusiastic Southerners, such as Cameron E. Thom +and J. Lancaster Brent, also joined the Rebellion and proceeded to the +seat of war. Thom, who has since attained much distinction, returned +to Los Angeles, where he is still living[24]. Brent never came back +here, having settled near New Orleans; and there I again met him, +while I was attending the Exposition. He had fought through the War, +becoming a General before its close; and he told me that he had been +arrested by Federal officers while on his way to the South from Los +Angeles, but had made his escape. + +Among the very few who went to the front on the Union side and +returned here was Charles Meyrs Jenkins, already referred to as a city +_Zanjero_. Owing to the possible need of troops here, as well as to +the cost of transportation, volunteers from the Pacific slope were not +called for and Jenkins joined an Eastern cavalry battalion organized +in October, 1862. Even then, he and his comrades were compelled to pay +their own way to the Atlantic seaboard, where they were incorporated +into the Second Massachusetts Cavalry. Jenkins engaged in twenty +battles, and for fifteen months was a prisoner of war confined at both +Andersonville and Libby; suffering such terrible hardships that he was +but one of three, out of a hundred and fifty of his battalion, who +came out alive. + +Not everyone possibly even among those familiar with the building of +the Los Angeles & San Pedro Railroad, knows that an effort was made, +as far back as 1861, to finance a railroad here. About the middle of +February in that year, Murray Morrison and Abel Stearns, Assemblymen, +learned of the willingness of Eastern capitalists to build such a road +within eighteen months, providing the County would subscribe one +hundred thousand dollars toward the undertaking, and the City fifty +thousand. The Legislature therefore on May 17th, 1861, granted the +franchise; but important as was the matter to our entire district, +nothing further was done until 1863 to give life to the movement. + +For almost a decade after I came here, St. Valentine's Day was seldom +observed in Los Angeles; but about 1861 or 1862, the annual exchange +of decorated cards, with their sentimental verses, came to be somewhat +general. + +Phineas Banning was a staunch Republican and an ardent Abolitionist; +and it was not extraordinary that on May 25th, at a grand Union +demonstration in Los Angeles, he should have been selected to present +to the Union Club, in his characteristically vigorous manner, an +American flag made for the occasion. Columbus Sims, as President, +accepted the emblem, after which there was a procession, led by the +First Dragoons' band, many participants being on horseback. In those +days such a procession had done its duty when it tramped along Main +Street and around the Plaza and back, by way of Spring Street, as far +as First; and everyone was in the right frame of mind to hear and +enjoy the patriotic speeches made by Captain Winfield Scott Hancock, +General Ezra Drown and Major James Henry Carleton, while in the +distance was fired a salute of thirty-four guns--one for each State in +the Union. + +Senator William McKendree Gwin was another man of prominence. +Following his search for gold with the Forty-niners--due, he used to +say, to advice from John C. Calhoun, who, probably taking his cue from +Dana's prophecy in _Two Years Before the Mast_, one day put his finger +on the map and predicted that, should the bay now called San Francisco +ever be possessed by Americans, a city rivaling New York would spring +up on its shores--Gwin came to Los Angeles occasionally, and never +forgot to visit me at my home. In 1861, he was arrested by the Federal +Government for his known sympathy with the South, and was kept a +prisoner for a couple of years; after which he went to France and +there planned to carry through, under force of arms, the colonization +of Sonora, Mexico, depending in vain on Napoleon III. and Maximilian +for support. Notwithstanding this futile effort, Gwin became a leader +in national Democratic councils, and was an intimate adviser of Samuel +J. Tilden in his historic campaign. + +Oscar Macy, son of Dr. Obed Macy, having as a newspaper man +enthusiastically advocated the election of Frémont in 1856, was +appointed, on Lincoln's inauguration, to the Collectorship of Customs +at San Pedro; a post which he continued to fill even after the office +had been reduced to an inspectorship, later resigning in favor of +George C. Alexander. This recalls another appointment by Lincoln--that +of Major António María Pico, a nephew of Pio Pico, to the Receivership +of Public Moneys at Los Angeles. Pico lived at San José; and finding +that his new duties exiled him from his family, he soon resigned the +office. + +Old-time barbers, as the reader may be aware, were often surgeons, and +the arrival in Commercial Street, in the early sixties, of J. A. +Meyer, "late of San Francisco," was announced in part as follows: + + Gentlemen will be waited on and have Shaving, + Hair-Dressing, and Shampooing prepared in the most + luxurious manner, and in the finest style of the art; while + Cupping, Bleeding, and Teeth-Extracting will also be + attended to! + +Fort Tejón had been pretty well broken up by June, when a good deal of +the army property was moved to Los Angeles. Along with Uncle Sam's bag +and baggage, came thirty or more of the camels previously mentioned, +including half a dozen "young uns." For some months they were +corralled uncomfortably near the genial Quartermaster's Main Street +office; but in October they were removed to a yard fixed up for them +on D. Anderson's premises, opposite the Second Street schoolhouse. + +Starting with the cook brought to Los Angeles by Joseph Newmark, the +Chinese population in 1861 had increased to twenty-one men and eight +women--a few of them cooks and servants, but most of them working in +five or six laundries. About the middle of June of that year, Chun +Chick arrived from San Francisco and created a flurry, not merely in +Chinatown, but throughout our little city, by his announcement that he +would start a store here; and by the thirteenth of July, this pioneer +Chinese shop, a veritable curiosity shop, was opened. The +establishment was on Spring Street, opposite the Court House; and +besides a general assortment of Chinese goods, there was a fine +display of preserves and other articles hitherto not obtainable in +town. Chun Chick was clever in his appeals of "A Chinese Merchant to +the Public;" but he nevertheless joined the celebrities advertised for +delinquent taxes. Chun Chick--or, as he appeared on the tax +collector's list, Chick Chun--was down for five hundred dollars in +merchandise, with one dollar and twenty-five cents for City, and the +same amount for school taxes. Sing Hop, Ching Hop and Ah Hong were +other Chinamen whose memory failed at the critical tax time of that +year. + +For years, until wharves made possible for thousands the pleasures of +rod and reel, clams, since used for bait, were almost a drug on the +market, being hawked about the streets in 1861 at a dollar a bucket--a +price not very remunerative considering that they came from as far +north as San Buenaventura. + +FOOTNOTES: + +[22] A term locally applied to tugs. + +[23] "The Faithful of this Parish, to the Queen of the Angels." + +[24] Captain Thom died on February 2d, 1915. + + + + +CHAPTER XXI + +HANCOCK--LADY FRANKLIN--THE DELUGE + +1861 + + +When the Civil War began, California and the neighboring territory +showed such pronounced Southern sympathies that the National +Government kept both under close surveillance, for a time stationing +Major, afterward General James Henry Carleton--in 1862 sent across the +Colorado River when the Government drove out the Texans--with a force +at Camp Latham, near Ballona, and dispatching another force to Drum +Barracks, near Wilmington. The Government also established a thorough +system of espionage over the entire Southwest. In Los Angeles and +vicinity, many people, some of whom I mention elsewhere, were +arrested; among them being Henry Schaeffer who was taken to Wilmington +Barracks but through influential friends was released after a few +days. On account of the known political views of their proprietors, +some of the hotels also were placed under watch for a while; but +beyond the wrath of the innkeepers at the sentinels pacing up and down +their verandas, nothing more serious transpired. Men on both sides +grew hot-headed and abused one another roundly, but few bones were +broken and little blood was shed. A policy of leniency was adopted by +the authorities, and sooner or later persons arrested for political +offenses were discharged. + +The ominous tidings from beyond the Colorado, and their effect, +presaging somewhat the great internecine conflict, recalls an +unpublished anecdote of Winfield Scott Hancock, who was a graduate of +West Point, an intense patriot and a "natural born" fighter. One day +in 1861, coincident with the Texan invasion, and while I was visiting +him in his office on Main Street near Third (after he had removed from +the upstairs rooms adjoining the Odd Fellows' Hall in the Temple +Building), John Goller dropped in with the rumor that conspirators, in +what was soon to become Arizona, were about to seize the Government +stores. Hancock was much wrought up when he heard the report, and +declared, with angry vehemence, that he would "treat the whole damned +lot of them as common thieves!" In the light of this demonstration and +his subsequent part as a national character of great renown, Hancock's +speech at the Fourth of July celebration, in 1861, when the patriotic +Angeleños assembled at the Plaza and marched to the shady grove of Don +Luis Sainsevain, is worthy of special note. Hancock made a sound +argument for the preservation of the Union, and was heartily +applauded; and a few days afterward one of the local newspapers, in +paying him a deserved tribute, almost breathed an augury in saying: + + Captain Hancock's loyalty to the Stars and Stripes has + never for a moment been doubted, and we hope he may be + advanced in rank and honors, and live to a green old age, + to see the glorious banner of our country yet waving in + peaceful glory over a united, prosperous, and happy people. + +Few of us, however, who heard Hancock speak on that occasion, dreamed +to what high position he would eventually attain. + +Soon after this episode, that is, in the early part of August, 1861, +Hancock left for the front, in company with his wife; and taking with +him his military band, he departed from San Pedro on the steamer +_Senator_. Some of my readers may know that Mrs. Hancock--after whom +the ill-fated _Ada Hancock_ was named--was a Southern woman, and +though very devoted to her husband, had certain natural sympathies for +the South; but none, I dare say, will have heard how she perpetrated +an amusing joke upon him on their way north. When once out upon the +briny deep, she induced the musicians to play _Dixie_, to the great +amusement of the passengers. Like many Southerners, Mrs. Hancock was +an Episcopalian and frequently contributed her unusual musical talent +to the service of the choir of St. Athanasius Church, the little +edifice for a while at the foot of Pound Cake Hill--first the location +of the Los Angeles High School and now of the County Courthouse--and +the forerunner of the Episcopal Pro-Cathedral, on Olive Street +opposite Central Park. + +Having in mind the sojourn in Los Angeles for years of these +representative Americans, the following editorial from the Los Angeles +_Star_ on the departure of the future General and Presidential +nominee, seems to me now of more than passing significance: + + While resident here, Captain Hancock took great interest in + our citizens, the development of our resources, and the + welfare of this section of the country; and as a + public-spirited, enterprising gentleman, he will be missed + from among us, and his most estimable lady will long live + in the hearts of her many friends. We desire their + prosperity, happiness, and long life, wherever their lot + may be cast. + +The establishing of Drum Barracks and Camp Drum at Wilmington was a +great contribution to the making of that town, for the Government not +only spent over a million dollars in buildings and works there, and +constantly drew on the town for at least part of its supplies, but +provisions of all kinds were sent through Wilmington to troops in +Southern California, Utah, Yuma, Tucson and vicinity, and New Mexico. + +P. H., popularly known as Major Downing, was employed by Banning for +some time during the War to take charge of the great wagon-trains of +Government supplies sent inland; and later he opened a general +merchandise store in Wilmington, after which he transacted a large +volume of business with H. Newmark & Company. + +At the breaking out of the War, the Southern Overland Mail Route was +discontinued and a contract was made with Butterfield for service +along a more central course, by way of Great Salt Lake. There was then +a stage six times a week; and a branch line ran to Denver, the +terminus having been changed from St. Joseph to Omaha. Twenty days was +the time allowed the company to get its stages through during eight +months of the year, and twenty-three days for the more uncertain +winter months. This contract was made for three years, and one million +dollars a year was the compensation allowed the Butterfields. After +the War, the old route was resumed. + +J. De Barth Shorb came to Los Angeles at the commencement of the War, +as Assistant Superintendent of the Philadelphia & California Oil +Company; and in 1867 he bought the Temescal grant and began to mine +upon the property. The same year he married a daughter of B. D. +Wilson, establishing a relationship which brought him a partnership in +the San Gabriel Wine Company, of which he eventually became manager. +His position in this community, until he died in 1895, was important, +the little town of Shorb testifying to one of his activities. + +Not only were the followers of the indefatigable _padres_ rather tardy +in taking up the cultivation of olives, but the olive-oil industry +hereabouts was a still later venture. As an illustration, even in 1861 +somewhat less than five hundred gallons of olive oil was made in all +Los Angeles County, and most of that was produced at the San Fernando +Mission. + +How important was the office of the _Zanjero_, may be gathered from +the fact that in 1861 he was paid twelve hundred dollars a year, while +the Mayor received only eight hundred dollars and the Treasurer two +hundred dollars less than the Mayor. At the same time, the Marshal, +owing to the hazardous duties of his office, received as much as the +Mayor; the City Attorney one hundred dollars less than the Treasurer; +and the Clerk but three hundred and fifty. + +By 1861, there were serious doubts as to the future of cattle-raising +in Southern California, but Banning & Company came forward proposing +to slaughter at New San Pedro and contracted with John Temple, John +Rains and others, to do their killing. For a while, the enterprise +was encouraged; Temple alone having six hundred head so disposed of +and sold. + +In September, Columbus Sims, the popular attorney of unique +personality who from 1856 to 1860 had been Clerk of the United States +District Court, was appointed Lieutenant-Colonel in the United States +Army and placed in charge of Camp Alert, at the Pioneer Race Course, +San Francisco, where twelve companies were soon assembled; and a month +or two later he was made Colonel in the Second Cavalry. Late in +December of that year, however, he had an altercation with D. D. +Colton, in San Francisco, when blows were exchanged and Sims drew "a +deadly weapon." For this, the doughty Colonel was arrested and held to +await the action of the Grand Jury; but I am under the impression that +nothing very serious befell the belligerent Sims as a result. + +On September 11th, H. Stassforth, after having bought out A. W. +Schulze, announced a change in the control of the United States Hotel, +inviting the public, at the same time, to a "free lunch," at half-past +four o'clock the following Sunday. Stassforth was an odd, but +interesting character, and stated in his advertisement that guests +were at liberty, when they had partaken of the collation, to judge if +he could "keep a hotel." Whether successful or otherwise, Stassforth +did not long continue in control, for in November, 1862, he disposed +of the business to Webber & Haas, who in turn sold it to Louis Mesmer. + +In the fall, an atrocious murder took place here, proving but the +first in a series of vile deeds for which, eventually, the culprit +paid with his own life at the hands of an infuriated populace. On +Sunday evening, September 30th, some Frenchmen were assembled to sit +up with the body of one of their recently-deceased countrymen; and at +about eleven o'clock a quarrel arose between two of the watchers, A. +M. G., or Michel Lachenais--a man once of good repute, who had cast +some slurs at the French Benevolent Society--and Henry Delaval, a +respected employee of the Aliso Mills who spiritedly defended the +organization. Lachenais drew a weapon, approached Delaval and tried to +shoot him; but the pistol missed fire. Thereupon Lachenais, enraged, +walked toward a lamp, adjusted two other caps, and deliberately shot +Delaval through the body. The next day his victim died. Lachenais made +his escape and so eluded the authorities that it was not until the +middle of February, 1866, that he surrendered himself to Deputy +Sheriff Henderson. Then he was tried, but was acquitted. + +About October, Remi Nadeau, a Canadian, after whom Nadeau Street is +named and father of George A. Nadeau, came across the Plains to Los +Angeles, having spent the previous winter, _en route_, in Salt Lake +City; and for a while he teamed between here and Montana. Within the +year, believing that San Francisco offered a larger field, he moved to +that city and continued his operations there. + +In the front part of a little building on Main Street, between Second +and Third, Lorenzo Leck, whom I have already mentioned, conducted a +grocery, living with his family in the rear. He was a plain, +unassuming, honest Dane of the old school, who attended scrupulously +to his business and devoted his Sundays and holidays to modest +amusements. On such days, he would put his wife, Caroline, and their +children on a little wagon that he owned and take them to his vineyard +on the outskirts of the town; and there he would enjoy with them those +rural pastimes to which he had been accustomed in the Fatherland, and +which to many early-comers here were a source of rest and delight. + +On the afternoon of Saturday, October 17th, Francisco Cota, a Mexican +boy fifteen years of age, entered Leck's store while he was out, and, +taking advantage of the fact that Frau Leck was alone, whipped out a +knife, stabbed her to death, stole what cash was in sight and then +escaped to a vineyard, where he hid himself. John W. Henderson, the +son of A. J. Henderson, a Deputy Sheriff here still living in Los +Angeles, came in soon after and finding Mrs. Leck horribly disfigured, +he gave the alarm. Neighbors and friends at once started in pursuit +and caught Cota; and having tied a rope around the murderer's neck +during the excitement they dragged him down to Alameda Street, where I +witnessed the uproar. As they proceeded by way of Aliso Street, the +mob became more and more infuriated, so that before it reached the +spot which had been selected for his execution, the boy had been +repeatedly stabbed and was nearly dead. At length, he was strung up as +a warning to other malefactors. + +A short time after this melancholy event, I was driving with my wife +to the Cerritos _rancho_ and, missing our road, we stopped at a +Mexican home to inquire the way. The woman who answered our summons +proved to be one who knew, and was known by all Los Angeles merchants +on account of her frequent excursions to town; she was, in fact, the +mother of the Mexican boy who had been mobbed and hung for the murder +of poor Leck's wife! The sight of _Gringos_ kindled anew her maternal +wrath; and she set up such a hue and cry as to preclude any further +intelligible conversation. + +California being so far removed from the seat of war did not awake to +its full significance until the credit of the Government began to +decline. Four weeks were required, it is well to remember, to complete +the trip from New York to San Francisco _via_ Panamá, and our +knowledge of events in the East was far from perfect. Until the +completion of the continental telegraph in October, 1861, the only +immediate news that reached the Coast came privately and we were, +therefore, pretty much in the dark until the arrival of Eastern +papers, and even after that telegraphing was so expensive that our +poorly-patronized little news-sheets could not afford the outlay. A +few of us therefore made up a purse of one hundred dollars a month, +which small sum enabled us to allay our anxiety at least in the case +of very important happenings. + +It must not be forgotten, though, that we then had a little relief +from San Francisco, whose newspapers, containing some telegraphic +despatches, arrived in town perhaps three to four days after their +publication. I may add, in fact, that it was not until about the +beginning of the eighties that Los Angeles dailies could afford the +luxury of regular direct telegrams. + +In other respects as well, editing a local newspaper during the War +was apt to entail financial loss. The Los Angeles _News_, for +instance, was outspoken for the Union and so escaped the temporary +eclipse suffered by the _Star_ through Government censorship; but the +Unionists being in a decided minority in the community, pickings for +the _News_ were mighty poor. Perhaps this want of patronage suggested +the advisability, in 1863 (when that paper was published by C. R. +Conway and Alonzo Waite, on Main Street, opposite the express office), +of reducing the subscription rate to five dollars a year. + +Probably one of the most interesting visits to Los Angeles ever made +by a well-known personage was the sudden call with which Lady +Franklin, the wife of the eminent, lost Arctic explorer, honored our +little town far back in 1861. The distinguished lady, accompanied by +Mrs. Cracroft, her niece, Commodore and Madame Watkins and Collector +and Mrs. Rankin, arrived at San Pedro on the _Golden State_ during the +first week in November and was driven, with her companions, to the +Bella Union hotel, from which she made such short excursions about the +city as were then possible; and as sympathy for her in her sorrow, and +admiration for her long years of plucky though vain search for her +husband were still general, every courtesy possible was afforded her. +During Lady Franklin's stay Benjamin D. Wilson arranged a delightful +garden party at his hospitable mansion at Lake Vineyard in her +ladyship's honor, and Phineas Banning also entertained her with a +reception and collation at his San Pedro home; and these receptions +and collations were as enjoyable as they were notable. After a day or +two, Lady Franklin and her party left on the _Senator_ for San +Francisco, being accorded, as the vessel weighed anchor, a marked +ovation. + +For many years funerals were attended by men on horseback and by women +on foot, as hacks were unknown in early days; and while the good +citizens were doubtless then conducted to their last resting-place in +a manner just as satisfactory to themselves as are their descendants +who are buried according to present-day customs, those who followed in +the train were very seriously inconvenienced by the melancholy, dusty +processions to the old and now-forgotten burial-grounds; for in those +days the trip, in summer exceedingly hot and in winter through rain +and mud, was a long, fatiguing one. + +Speaking of funerals, a strange sight was witnessed in our streets +about the end of November, 1861, attending the burial of a child. The +father and mother, both native Californians, were seated in a wagon, +in which was also placed the strikingly plain little coffin or box +containing the dead. Beside the wagon walked an old man, playing a +fiddle. Two or three persons followed in the deep mud; the whole +forming a weird picture, said to be the relic of an almost obsolete +back-woods custom. + +Banning & Hinchman's _Comet_ proving insufficient, the _Gondolier_ was +put on in the fall of 1861 and became a familiar craft in the +conveying of passengers and freight between New San Pedro and the +ships lying off the harbor. + +Two years previous to the completion of the telegraph from San +Francisco to Los Angeles--that is, in 1858--the first continental +telegraph was undertaken; and by October, 1861, Governor Downey of +California sent a congratulatory message to President Lincoln. On +November 7th, the line was open to the public. Several months before, +all the companies in the State had consolidated into the California +State Telegraph Company. Banning & Hinchman having succeeded, for a +short season, Phineas Banning, the sub-contractor for the building of +the first telegraph, they made an effort, following the establishment +of communication between the Atlantic and the Pacific, to secure a +line to New San Pedro; and at the end of October, 1861, the first +telegraph pole in the long row from Los Angeles to the harbor was +formally set. About the middle of November, this line was completed; +and though it was widely proclaimed as "working like a charm," the +apparatus soon got out of order and by the following January there +were many complaints that both poles and wire had fallen to the +ground, blocking the thoroughfares and entangling animals in such a +way as to become a nuisance. Indeed, there was soon a public demand +either to repair the telegraph or to remove it altogether and throw +the equipment away. Soon after the first of February, 1862, the line +was working again; but by that time the telegraph to San Francisco had +gotten out of order! And so great were the difficulties in repairing +that line, that Los Angeles was not again talking uninterruptedly over +the wire with its neighbor until July. + +On November 15th, the first number of _El Amigo del Pueblo_, printed +in Spanish, appeared from the shop of José E. Gonzales & Company; but +native support being withheld, "The Friend of the People" starved to +death in the following May. + +Whaling, like shark-hunting, continued brisk in 1861 and 1862, and +many vessels were fitted out at San Pedro; Los Angeles merchants +selling them most of their supplies. The sea-monsters usually moved up +the coast about the first of the year, the males keeping in toward the +shore going up, and the females hugging the coast, coming down; and +small boats such as Captain W. Clark's _Ocean_, used to take from four +hundred and fifty to five hundred barrels of oil in five or six weeks. +For six days, in March, 1862, San Pedro whalers harpooned a whale a +day, bringing to the landing over two hundred barrels of oil as a +result of the week's labor. + +The bitter fight between Abolitionists and Southern sympathizers was +immediately reflected in the public schools. Defenders of the Union +worked for a formal oath of allegiance to the National Government, as +a preliminary to granting teachers' certificates; while the +Confederates, incensed at what they deemed a violation of personal +rights, assailed the institutions. The result was that attendance at +the public schools gradually fell off until, in the winter of 1865-66, +only about three hundred and fifty children of school age were being +instructed by public teachers; another third of a thousand was in +private schools, while some three hundred and sixty-nine were not on +any roster. + +The gloom naturally caused by the outbreak of war was sometimes +penetrated by the brightness of social life, and among the happier +occasions of the winter of 1861 was the marriage, on December 23d, in +the presence of a large circle of friends, of Tom D. Mott to +Ascención, daughter of Don José Andrés and Doña Francisca Ábila +Sepúlveda. + +The winter of 1861-62 recorded the greatest of all floods, especially +in the North where, in December and January, something like +thirty-five inches of rain was precipitated. In Los Angeles County the +rivers soon rose and overflowed the lowlands; but the rise was +gradual, causing the loss of but few or no lives and permitting the +stock to reach the neighboring hills in safety. In Anaheim the water +was four feet deep in the streets and people had to seek flight to the +uplands or retreat to the roofs of their little houses. Vineyards were +sometimes half-ruined with the layers of deep sand; banks of streams +were lined for miles with driftwood; and ranchers saw many a clod of +their farms carried off and deposited to enrich their neighbors, miles +away. For a month it rained so steadily that the sun peeped out for +scarcely an hour. + +I witnessed this inundation in Los Angeles, where much damage was done +to business buildings, especially to Mellus's Row, and saw merchants +in water up to their waists, trying to save their goods. The wall of +the room occupied by Sam Meyer fell first, whereupon Hellman & Brother +became intensely interested in the removal of their stock, while poor +Sam, knee-deep in water, sadly contemplated his losses. Before the +Hellmans had made much headway, they observed a tendency on the part +of their walls to crumble, and their exit was neither graceful nor +delayed. After that the store occupied by Meyer & Breslauer caved in, +smashing show cases and shelves, and ruining a large amount of +merchandise. The ludicrous picture of this rush for "safety first" is +not a fit reflection of the feelings of those pioneers who saw the +results of years of labor obliterated in a moment. Friends and +neighbors lent assistance to the unfortunate, and helped to save what +they could. After this flood, Hellman & Brother and Sam Meyer removed +to the Arcadia Block, while Meyer & Breslauer secured accommodations +north of the Plaza Church. + + + + +CHAPTER XXII + +DROUGHTS--THE _ADA HANCOCK_ DISASTER + +1862-1863 + + +On the first of January, 1862, after an experience of about five +years, I retired from the selling of clothing, which was never +congenial to me; and as I had been buying hides and wool on a small +scale since the middle of the fifties, I forthwith devoted myself to +the commission business. Frenchmen from the Basque country, among whom +were Miguel Leonis, Gaston Oxarart, Domingo Amestoy and Domingo +Bastanchury, had commenced to appear here in 1858 and to raise sheep; +so that in 1859 large flocks were brought into Southern California, +the sheep commanding a price of three dollars and a half per head. My +own operations, exceedingly small in the beginning, increased in +importance, and by 1862 I was fairly equipped for this venture. Corn, +barley and wheat were also then being raised, and I busied myself with +these commodities as well. + + [Illustration: Eugene Meyer] + + [Illustration: Jacob A. Moerenhout] + + [Illustration: Frank Lecouvreur] + + [Illustration: Thomas D. Mott] + + [Illustration: Leonard J. Rose] + + [Illustration: H. K. S. O'Melveny] + + [Illustration: Remi Nadeau] + + [Illustration: John M. Griffith] + +Most of the early sheepmen prospered and in time bought large tracts +of land for their flocks, and with all of them I had dealings of more +or less importance. Amestoy's career is worthy of particular mention +as exemplifying the three cardinal virtues of business: honesty, +application and frugality. He and his wife took in washing; and while +the husband went from house to house, leading a horse with a large +basket strapped to either side, to collect and deliver the clothes, +the wife toiled at the tub. In the end, what they together had +saved became the foundation of their important investments in sheep +and land. Pedro Larronde, another early sheepman, married the widow of +his Basque fellow-countryman, Etchemendy, the tippling baker. + +Having regularly established a commission business, I brought +consignments of varied merchandise from San Francisco on the +semi-monthly steamer _Goliah_, whose Captain at one time was Robert +Haley, and at another his brother Salisbury Haley, a brother-in-law of +Tom Mott; and I disposed of them to small dealers with whom I thus +became pretty well acquainted. These consignments were sold almost as +soon as they arrived. I was careful to bring in only staple articles +in the grocery line, and it was long before I appreciated the +advantage of carrying sufficient stock to supply a regular demand. On +the return trips of the steamer to San Francisco I forwarded such +produce as I had accumulated. + +I do not recall any important changes in 1862, the declining months of +which saw the beginning of the two years' devastating drought. The +Civil War was in progress, but we were so far from the scene of strife +that we were not materially affected. Sympathy was very general here +for the Confederate cause, and the Government therefore retained in +Wilmington both troops and clerks who were paid in a badly-depreciated +currency, which they were obliged to discount at exorbitant rates, to +get money at all; while other employees had to accept vouchers which +were subject to a still greater discount. Notwithstanding these +difficulties, however, pay-day increased the resources of the pueblo +considerably. + +Hellman & Brother, a partnership consisting of I. M. and Samuel +Hellman, dissolved, on January 2d, I. M. continuing in the dry goods +business while Sam took the books and stationery. Another brother and +associate, H. M. Hellman, a couple of years before had returned to +Europe, where he died. If my memory is accurate, I. W. remained with +I. M. Hellman until the former, in 1865, bought out A. Portugal. +Samuel A. Widney, who later had a curio store, was for a while with +Sam Hellman in a partnership known as Hellman & Widney. + +On January 17th, Don Louis Vignes passed away in Los Angeles, at the +age of ninety-one years. + +January also witnessed one of those typical scenes, in the fitting out +of a mule- and wagon-train, never likely to be seen in Los Angeles +again. Two hundred wagons and twelve hundred mules, mostly brought +from San Francisco on steamers, were assembled for a trip across the +desert to convey Government stores. + +M. J. Newmark became a partner, on February 1st, in the firm of +Howard, Butterworth & Newmark, Federal and State Attorneys with +offices in the Temple Building, Los Angeles, and Armory Hall, San +Francisco; and it was considered at the time a rapid advance for a man +of but twenty-three years of age. The Los Angeles _Star_ of that date, +in fact, added a word of good fellowship: "We congratulate friend +Newmark on the association." + +The intimate relations characteristic of a small community such as +ours, and the much more general effect then than nowadays of any +tragical occurrence have already been described. Deep sympathy was +therefore awakened, early in February, on the arrival of the steamer +_Senator_ and the rapid dissemination of the report that Dr. Thomas +Foster, the ex-Mayor, had been lost overboard, on January 29th, on the +boat's trip northward. Just what happened to Foster will never be +known; in San Francisco it was reported that he had thrown himself +into the sea, though others who knew him well looked upon the cause of +his death as accidental. + +But slight attention was paid to the report, brought in by horsemen +from San Bernardino on February 4th, that an earthquake had occurred +there in the morning, until Captain Tom Seeley returned with the +_Senator_ to San Pedro and told about a seismic disturbance at sea, +during which he struck the wildest storm off Point Concepción, in all +his sea-faring experience. Sailors were then better all-round seamen +than now; yet there was greater superstition in Jack Tar's mind, and +such a storm made a deep impression upon his imagination. + +I have alluded to the dependence of Los Angeles on the outside world, +no better evidence of which, perhaps, can be cited than that on the +twenty-second of February, George W. Chapin & Company of San Francisco +advertised here to furnish servants and other help to anyone in the +Southland. About the same time, San Bernardino parties, wishing to +bore a little artesian well, had to send to the Northern metropolis +for the necessary machinery. + +In October, 1860, as I have intimated, Phineas Banning took A. F. +Hinchman into partnership, the firm being known as Banning & Hinchman, +and they seemed to prosper; but on February 12th, 1862, the public was +surprised at the announcement of the firm's dissolution. Banning +continued as proprietor, and Hinchman became Banning's Los Angeles +agent. + +Although cattle-raising was the mainstay of Southern California for +many years, and gold-mining never played a very important part here, +Wells Fargo & Co., during the spring, frequently shipped thousands of +dollars' worth of gold at a time, gathered from Santa Anita, San +Gabriel and San Fernando _placers_, while probably an equally large +amount was forwarded out through other channels. + +I have already pointed to the clever foresight shown by Abel Stearns +when he built the Arcadia Block and profited by the unhappy experience +of others, with rain that flooded their property; but I have not +stated that in elevating his new building considerably above the grade +of the street, somewhat regardless of the rights of others, he caused +the surplus water to run off into neighboring streets and buildings. +Following the great storm of 1861-62, the City sued Stearns for +damages, but he won his case. More than that, the overflow was a +Godsend to him, for it induced a number of people to move from +Mellus's Row to Arcadia Block at a time when the owner of vast ranches +and some of the best town property was already feeling the pinch of +the alternate dry and over-wet seasons. The fact is, as I shall soon +make clear, that before Stearns had seen the end of two or three +successive dry seasons yet to come, he was temporarily bankrupt and +embarrassed to the utmost. + +By April, the walls and roof for the little Protestant Church at +Temple and New High streets had been built, and there the matter +rested for two years, when the structure, on which the taxes were +unpaid, was advertised for sale. + +We have seen that the first Jewish services here were held soon after +the arrival of Joseph Newmark in 1854; under the same disadvantageous +conditions as had hampered the Protestant denominations, Mr. Newmark +volunteered to officiate on the principal holidays until 1862, when +the Reverend Abraham Wolf Edelman arrived. Born at Warsaw in 1832, +Rabbi Edelman came to America in 1851, immediately after he was +married to Miss Hannah Pessah Cohn, and settled successively in New +York, Paterson and Buffalo. Coming to California in 1859, he resided +in San Francisco until 1862, when he was chosen Rabbi of the orthodox +Congregation B'nai B'rith of Los Angeles, and soon attained +distinction as a Talmudic scholar and a preacher. The first services +under Rabbi Edelman were held in Stearns's, or Arcadia Hall; next, the +Congregation worshipped in Leck's Hall on Main Street between Second +and Third; and finally, through the courtesy of Judge Ygnácio +Sepúlveda, the court room was used. In 1873 the Jews of Los Angeles +erected their first synagogue, a brick building entered by a steep +stairway leading to a platform, and located on the east side of Fort +Street between Second and Third, on what is now the site of the Copp +Building next to the City Hall. In 1886, when local Jewry instituted a +much more liberal ritual, Rabbi Edelman's convictions induced him to +resign. The purchase of a lot for a home on the corner of Sixth and +Main streets proved a fortunate investment, later enabling him to +enjoy a well-deserved comfort and to gratify his charitable +inclinations. It is a strange coincidence that Reverend Edelman's +first marriage ceremony was that which blessed Samuel Prager; while +the last occasion on which he performed the solemn rites for the +dead--shortly before his own death in 1907--was for the same friend. +A. M. Edelman, the architect, and Dr. D. W. Edelman, both well-known +here, are sons of the Rabbi. + +As late in the season as April, hail and snow fell in and near Los +Angeles. To the North of the city, the white mantle quite hid the +mountains and formed a new and lower snow-line; while within the city, +the temperature so lowered that at several intervals during the day, +huge hail-stones beat against the window-panes--a very unusual +experience for Angeleños. + +Because of political charges preferred against A. J. King, then Under +Sheriff of the County, the latter, on April 10th, was arrested by +Henry D. Barrows, United States Marshal, who had been appointed by +President Lincoln, the year previous. Colonel Carleton, Commander of +the Southern Military Division, however, soon liberated King. On the +last day of the year, the Under Sheriff married the estimable Miss +Laura C. Evertsen. + +Travelers to Europe have often suffered much annoyance through +safe-conduct regulations, but seldom have Americans had their liberty +thus restricted by their own authorities. Toward the middle of June, +word was received in Los Angeles that, owing to the suspicion lest +disloyalists were embarking for Aspinwall, all passengers for +California _via_ the Isthmus would be required to take out passports. + +Anticipating, by forty years or more, Luther Burbank's work, attention +was directed, as early as 1862, to the possibility of eating the +cactus and thus finding, in this half-despised plant of the desert, +relief from both hunger and thirst. Half a century later, in 1913, Los +Angeles established the cactus candy industry through which the boiled +pulp of the _bisnaga_, often spoken of as the fishhook, barrel and +nigger-head variety, is made deliciously palatable when siruped from +ten to thirty days. + +Ygnácio Sepúlveda, declared by the Los Angeles _Star_ "a young +gentleman of liberal education, and good, natural endowments, already +versed in legal studies," on September 6th was admitted to the +District Court Bar. + +On January 18th, 1860, the first number of the _Semi-Weekly Southern +News_ appeared, containing advertisements in both English and Spanish. +It was issued by C. R. Conway and Alonzo Waite, who charged +twenty-five cents a copy, or seven dollars a year. On October 8th, +1862, the title was changed to the _Los Angeles Semi-Weekly News_. + +In 1860, the Bella Union, as I have said, was under the management of +John King, who came here in 1856; while in 1861 J. B. Winston & +Company, who were represented by Henry Reed, controlled the hotel. In +1862 or 1863, John King and Henry Hammel were the managers. + +I have told of the purchase of the San Pasqual _rancho_ by Dr. J. S. +Griffin. On December 11th, Dr. and Mrs. Griffin for five hundred +dollars sold to B. D. Wilson and wife some six hundred and forty acres +of that property; and a few hours afterward the Wilsons disposed of +two hundred and sixty-two acres for one thousand dollars. The +purchaser was Mrs. Eliza G. Johnston, wife of General Albert Sidney +Johnston. Mrs. Johnston at once built a neat residence on the tract +and called it _Fair Oaks_, after the plantation in Virginia on which +she had been born; and from this circumstance the name of the now +well-known Fair Oaks Avenue in Pasadena is derived. At the time of her +purchase Mrs. Johnston had hoped to reside there permanently; but the +tragic fate of her son in the _Ada Hancock_ disaster, following the +untimely death of her husband at Shiloh, and the apparent uselessness +of the land, led her to sell to Judge B. S. Eaton what to-day would be +worth far more than thousands of acres in many parts of the Southern +States. A curious coincidence in the relations of General Sumner, who +superseded General Johnston, to the hero of Shiloh is that, later in +the War, Sumner led a corps of Union troops at Fair Oaks, Virginia! + +Don Ygnácio Coronel, father of António Franco Coronel, and the early +school patron to whom I have referred, died in Los Angeles on December +19th, aged seventy years. He had come to California in 1834, and had +long been eminent in political councils and social circles. I recall +him as a man of strong intellect and sterling character, kind-hearted +and popular. + +Another effort, without success, to use camels for transportation over +the California and adjacent sands, was made in January, 1863, when a +camel express was sent out from New San Pedro to Tucson. + +Elsewhere I have indicated the condition of the public cemetery. While +an adobe wall enclosed the Roman Catholic burial-place, and a brick +wall surrounded the Jewish resting-place for the dead, nothing was +done until 1863 to improve the Protestant cemetery, although +desecration went so far that the little railing around the grave of +poor Mrs. Leck, the grocer's wife who had been murdered, was torn down +and burned. Finally, the matter cried to Heaven so audibly that in +January, Los Angeles Masons appropriated one hundred and fifty dollars, +to be added to some five hundred dollars raised by popular +subscription; and the Common Council having appointed a committee to +supervise the work, William H. Perry put up the fence, making no +charge for his services. + +About the middle of January word was received in Los Angeles of the +death, at Baltimore, of Colonel B. L. Beall, commander for years of +the Fort Tejón garrison, and active in the Mojave and Kern River +campaigns. + +Death entered our home for the first time, when an infant daughter, +less than a month old, died this year on February 14th. + +In February, the editor of the _News_ advised the experiment of +growing cotton as an additional activity for the Colorado Indians, who +were already cultivating corn, beans and melons. Whether this +suggestion led William Workman into cotton culture, I do not know; at +any rate, late in November of the same year F. P. F. Temple was +exhibiting about town some well-matured bolls of cotton raised on +Workman's ranch, and the next spring saw in El Monte a number of +fields planted with cotton seed. A year later, J. Moerenhout sent Los +Angeles cotton to an exhibition in France, and received from across +the water official assurance that the French judges regarded our +product as quite equal to that grown in the Southern States. This gave +a slight impetus to cotton-culture here and by January, 1865, a number +of immigrants had arrived, looking for suitable land for the +production of this staple. They soon went to work, and in August of +that year many fields gave promise of good crops, far exceeding the +expectations of the experimenters. + +In the month of March a lively agitation on behalf of a railroad began +in the public press, and some bitter things were said against those +who, for the sake of a little trade in horses or draying, were opposed +to such a forward step; and under the leadership of E. J. C. Kewen and +J. A. Watson, our Assemblymen at that session, the Legislature of 1863 +passed an act authorizing the construction of the Los Angeles & San +Pedro Railroad. A public meeting was called to discuss the details and +to further the project; but once more no railroad was built or even +begun. Strange as it seems, the idea of a railroad for Los Angeles +County in 1863 was much too advanced for the times. + +Billed as one who had "had the honor of appearing before King William +IV. and all the principal crowned heads of Europe," Professor Courtier +held forth with an exhibition of magic in the Temple Theatre; drawing +the usual crowd of--royalty-haters! + +In 1863, Santa Catalina was the scene of a gold-mining boom which soon +came to naught, and through an odd enough occurrence. About April, +Martin M. Kimberly and Daniel E. Way staked out a claim or two, and +some miners agreed on a code of laws for operations in what was to be +known as the San Pedro Mining District, the boundaries of which were +to include all the islands of the County. Extensive claims, chiefly in +Cherry and Joly valleys and on Mineral Hill, were recorded, and +streets were laid out for a town to be known as Queen City; but just +as the boom seemed likely to mature, the National Government stepped +in and gave a quietus to the whole affair. With or without foundation, +reports had reached the Federal authorities that the movement was but +a cloak to establish there well-fortified Confederate headquarters for +the fitting out and repair of privateers intended to prey upon the +coast-wise traders; and on February 5th, 1864, Captain B. R. West, +commanding the Fourth California Infantry, ordered practically all of +the miners and prospectors to leave the island at once. The following +September the National troops were withdrawn, and after the War the +Federal authorities retained control of a point on the island deemed +serviceable for lighthouse purposes. + +In the spring of 1863, feeling ill, I went to San Francisco to consult +Dr. Toland, who assured me that there was nothing serious the matter +with me; but wishing to satisfy myself more thoroughly, I resorted to +the same means that I dare say many others have adopted--a medical +examination for life insurance! Bernhard Gattel, general agent of the +Germania Life Insurance Company, at 315 Montgomery Street, wrote out +my application; and on March 20th, a policy, numbered 1472, was +issued, making me, since the fall of 1913, the oldest living +policy-holder in the Southwest, and the twentieth oldest of the +Germania's patrons in the world. + +Californians, during that period of the War when the North was +suffering a series of defeats, had little use for greenbacks. At one +time, a dollar in currency was worth but thirty-five cents, though +early in April it was accepted at sixty-five, late in August at +ninety, and about the first of October at seventy-five cents; even +interest-bearing gold notes being worth no more. This condition of the +money market saw little change until some time in the seventies; and +throughout the War greenbacks were handled like any other commodity. +Frank Lecouvreur, in one of these periods, after getting judgment in a +suit against Deputy Surveyor William Moore, for civil engineering +services, and being paid some three hundred and eighty-three dollars +in greenbacks, was disconcerted enough when he found that his currency +would command but one hundred and eighty dollars in gold. San +Francisco merchants realized fortunes when a decline occurred, as they +bought their merchandise in the East for greenbacks and sold it on the +Coast for gold. Los Angeles people, on the other hand, enjoyed no such +benefit, as they brought their wares from San Francisco and were +therefore obliged to liquidate in specie. + +Among the worst tragedies in the early annals of Los Angeles, and by +far the most dramatic, was the disaster on April 27th to the little +steamer _Ada Hancock_. While on a second trip, in the harbor of San +Pedro, to transfer to the _Senator_ the remainder of the passengers +bound for the North, the vessel careened, admitting cold water to the +engine-room and exploding the boiler with such force that the boat was +demolished to the water's edge; fragments being found on an island +even half to three-quarters of a mile away. Such was the intensity of +the blast and the area of the devastation that, of the fifty-three or +more passengers known to have been on board, twenty-six at least +perished. Fortunate indeed were those, including Phineas Banning, the +owner, who survived with minor injuries, after being hurled many feet +into the air. Among the dead were Thomas W. Seeley, Captain of the +_Senator_; Joseph Bryant, Captain of the _Ada Hancock_; Dr. H. R. +Myles, the druggist, who had been in partnership, opposite the Bella +Union, with Dr. J. C. Welch, an arrival of the early fifties who died +in 1869; Thomas H. Workman, Banning's chief clerk; Albert Sidney +Johnston, Jr.; William T. B. Sanford, once Postmaster; Louis +Schlesinger and William Ritchie, Wells Fargo's messenger, to whom was +entrusted ten thousand dollars, which, as far as my memory goes, was +lost. Two Mormon missionaries, _en route_ to the Sandwich Islands, +were also killed. Still another, who lost not only his treasure but +his life, was Fred E. Kerlin of Fort Tejón: thirty thousand dollars +which he carried with him, in greenbacks, disappeared as mysteriously +as did the jewelry on the persons of others, and from these +circumstances it was concluded that, even in the presence of Death, +these bodies had been speedily robbed. Mrs. Banning and her mother, +Mrs. Sanford, and a daughter of B. D. Wilson were among the wounded; +while Miss M. Hereford, Mrs. Wilson's sister and the _fiancée_ of Dr. +Myles, was so severely injured that, after long suffering, she also +died. Although the accident had happened about five o'clock in the +afternoon, the awful news, casting a general and indescribable gloom, +was not received in town until nearly eight o'clock; when Drs. Griffin +and R. T. Hayes, together with an Army surgeon named Todd, hastened +in carriages to the harbor where soldiers from Camp Drum had already +asserted their authority. Many of the victims were buried near the +beach at New San Pedro. While I was calling upon Mrs. Johnston to +express my sympathy, the body of her son was brought in; and words +cannot describe the pathos of the scene when she addressed the +departed as if he were but asleep. + +In June the Government demanded a formal profession of loyalty from +teachers, when Miss Mary Hoyt and Miss Eliza Madigan took the oath, +but Mrs. Thomas Foster and William McKee refused to do so. The +incident provoked bitter criticism, and nothing being done to punish +the recalcitrants, the Los Angeles Board of Education was charged with +indifference as to the allegiance of its public servants. + +During 1863 sectional feeling had grown so bitter on account of the +War that no attempt was made to celebrate the Fourth of July in town. +At Fort Latham, however, on the Ballona Ranch, the soldiers observed +the day with an appropriate demonstration. By the end of July, troops +had been sent from Drum Barracks to camp in the city--for the +protection, so it was asserted, of Union men whose lives were said to +be in danger, although some people claimed that this movement was +rather for the purpose of intimidating certain leaders with known +sympathy for the South. This military display gave Northerners more +backbone; and on the twenty-sixth of September a Union mass-meeting +was held on Main Street in front of the Lafayette Hotel. + +Eldridge Edwards Hewitt, a Mexican War veteran who came to California +in 1849 to search for gold, arrived in Los Angeles on July 31st and +soon went on a wild-goose chase to the Weaver Diggings in Arizona, +actually tramping with luggage over five hundred miles of the way! +After his return, he did odd jobs for his board, working in a +stationery and toy store on Main Street, kept by the Goldwater +Brothers, Joe and Mike, who had arrived in the early sixties; and +later he entered the employ of Phineas Banning at Wilmington, with +whom he remained until the completion of the Los Angeles & San Pedro +Railroad in 1870, when he became its Superintendent. When the Southern +Pacific obtained control of that road in 1873, Hewitt was made Agent, +and after the extension of the line from San Francisco he was +appointed Division Superintendent. In that capacity he brought Senator +Leland Stanford to me, as I shall elsewhere relate, to solicit H. +Newmark and Company's patronage. + +It was in 1863 that Dr. J. S. Griffin, father of East Los Angeles, +purchased two thousand acres in that section, at fifty cents an acre; +but even at that price he was only induced to buy it by necessity. +Griffin wanted sheep-pasture, and had sought to secure some eight +hundred acres of City land along the river; but as this would prevent +other cattle or sheep from approaching the water to drink, the Common +Council refused Griffin's bid on the smaller area of land and he was +compelled to buy the _mesa_ farther back. It seems to me that B. D. +Wilson, J. G. Downey and Hancock M. Johnston, General Johnston's son, +also had something to do with this transaction. Both Downey and +Griffin avenues derived their names from the association of these two +gentlemen with that section. + +A smallpox epidemic which had started in the previous fall spread +through Los Angeles in 1863, and owing possibly to the bad sanitary +and climatic conditions much vigilance and time were required to +eradicate it; compulsory vaccination not having been introduced (as it +finally was at the suggestion of Dr. Walter Lindley) until the summer +of 1876. The dread disease worked its ravages especially among the +Mexicans and Indians, as many as a dozen of them dying in a single +day; and these sufferers and their associates being under no +quarantine, and even bathing _ad libitum_ in the _zanjas_, the pest +spread alarmingly. For a time fatalities were so frequent and the +nature of the contagion so feared that it was difficult to persuade +undertakers to bury the dead, even without funeral or other ceremony. + +Following the opening of the Owens River Mines this year, Los Angeles +merchants soon established a considerable trade with that territory. +Banning inaugurated a system of wagon-trains, each guarded by a +detachment of soldiers. The San Fernando mountains, impassable for +heavy teaming, were an obstacle to regular trade with the new country +and compelled the use of a circuitous route over poor roads. It became +necessary, therefore, to consider a means of overcoming the +difficulty, much money having already been spent by the County in an +abortive attempt to build a tunnel. This second plan likewise came to +naught, and it was in fact more than a decade before the Southern +Pacific finally completed the famous bore. + +Largely because of political mistakes, including a manifestation of +sympathy for the Southern Confederacy that drew against him Northern +resentment and opposition, John G. Downey, the Democratic nominee for +Governor, was defeated at the election in September; Frederick F. Low, +a Republican, receiving a majority of over twenty thousand votes. + +In October, a peddler named Brun was murdered near Chino. Brun's +brother, living at San Bernardino and subsequently a merchant of +prominence there, offered two hundred dollars of his slender savings +as a reward for the capture of the slayer; but nothing ever came of +the search. + +In November the stern necessities of war were at last driven home to +Angeleños when, on the ninth of that somber month, Don Juan Warner, +Deputy Provost Marshal, appeared with his big blank books and began to +superintend the registering of all able-bodied citizens suitable for +military service. To many, the inquisition was not very welcome and, +had it not been for the Union soldiers encamped at Drum Barracks, this +first step toward compulsory enrollment would undoubtedly have +resulted in riotous disturbances. + +I have frequently named Tom Mott, but I may not have said that he was +one of the representative local Democratic politicians of his day. He +possessed, indeed, such influence with all classes that he was not +only elected Clerk of Los Angeles County in 1863, but succeeded +himself in 1865, 1867 and 1869, afterward sitting in the State +Assembly; and in 1876, he was appointed a delegate to the National +Convention that nominated Samuel J. Tilden for the Presidency. His +relations in time with Stanford, Crocker, Huntington and Hopkins were +very close, and for at least twenty-five years he acted as their +political adviser in all matters appertaining to Southern California. +Tall, erect and dignified, scrupulously attired and distinguished by +his flowing beard, Tom was for more than half a century a striking +figure in Los Angeles. + +A most brutal murder took place on November 15th on the desert not far +from Los Angeles, but few days passing before it was avenged. A poor +miner, named R. A. Hester, was fatally attacked by a border ruffian +known as Boston Daimwood, while some confederates, including the +criminals Chase, Ybarra and Olivas, stood by to prevent interference. +In a few hours officers and citizens were in the saddle in pursuit of +the murderous band; for Daimwood had boasted that Hester was but the +first of several of our citizens to whom he intended to pay his +respects. Daimwood and his three companions were captured and lodged +in jail, and on the twenty-first of November two hundred or more armed +Vigilantes forced the jail doors, seized the scoundrels and hung them +to the _pórtico_ of the old City Hall on Spring Street. Tomás Sanchez, +the Sheriff, talked of organizing a _posse comitatus_ to arrest the +committee leaders; but so positive was public sentiment, as reflected +in the newspapers, in support of the summary executions, that nothing +further was heard of the threat. + +An incident of value in the study of mob-psychology accentuated the +day's events. During the lynching, the clattering of horses' hoofs was +heard, when the cry was raised that cavalry from Drum Barracks was +rushing to rescue the prisoners; and in a twinkling those but a moment +before most demonstrative were seen scurrying to cover in all +directions. Instead, however, of Federal soldiers, the horsemen were +the usual contingent of El Monte boys, coming to assist in the +neck-tie party. + +Besides the murderers lynched, there was an American boy named Wood of +about eighteen years; and although he had committed no offense more +vicious than the theft of some chickens, he paid the penalty with his +life, it having been the verdict of the committee that while they +were at it, the jail might as well be cleared of every malefactor. A +large empty case was secured as a platform on which the victim was to +stand; and I shall never forget the spectacle of the youth, apparently +oblivious of his impending doom, as he placed his hands upon the box +and vaulted lightly to the top (just as he might have done at an +innocent gymnastic contest), and his parting salutation, "I'm going to +die a game _hen-chicken!_" The removal of the case a moment later, +after the noose had been thrown over and drawn about the lad's head, +left the poor victim suspended beyond human aid. + +On that same day, a sixth prisoner barely escaped. When the crowd was +debating the lynchings, John P. Lee, a resident of El Monte who had +been convicted of murder, was already under sentence of death; and the +Vigilantes, having duly considered his case, decided that it would be +just as well to permit the law to take its course. Some time later, J. +Lancaster Brent, Lee's attorney, appealed the case and obtained for +his client a new trial, finally clearing Lee of the charges against +him, so that, in the end, he died a natural death. + +I frequently saw Lee after this episode, and vividly recall an +unpleasant interview years later. The regularity of his visits had +been interrupted, and when he reappeared to get some merchandise for a +customer at El Monte, I asked him where he had been. He explained that +a dog had bitten a little girl, and that while she was suffering from +hydrophobia she had in turn attacked him and so severely scratched his +hands and face that, for a while, he could not show himself in public. +After that, whenever I saw Lee, I was aware of a lurking, if +ridiculous, suspicion that the moment might have arrived for a new +manifestation of the rabies. + +Speaking of the Civil War and the fact that in Southern California +there was less pronounced sentiment for the Union than in the Northern +part of the State, I am reminded of a relief movement that emphasized +the distinction. By the middle of November San Francisco had sent over +one hundred and thirty thousand dollars to the United States Sanitary +Commission, and an indignant protest was voiced in some quarters that +Los Angeles, up to that date, had not participated. In time, however, +the friends of the Union here did make up a small purse. + +In 1863 interest in the old San Juan Capistrano Mission was revived +with the reopening of the historic structure so badly damaged by the +earthquake of 1812, and a considerable number of townspeople went out +to the first services under the new roof. When I first saw the +Mission, near Don Juan Forster's home, there was in its open doors, +windows and cut-stone and stucco ruins, its vines and wild flowers, +much of the picturesque. + +On November 18th, 1862, our little community was greatly stirred by +the news that John Rains, one of Colonel Isaac Williams' sons-in-law +and well known in Los Angeles, had been waylaid and killed on the +highway near the Azusa _rancho_ the night before. It was claimed that +one Ramón Carrillo had hired the assassins to do the foul deed; and +about the middle of February, 1863, a Mexican by the name of Manuel +Cerradel was arrested by Thomas Trafford, the City Marshal, as a +participant. In time, he was tried and sentenced to ten years in San +Quentin Prison. On December 9th, Sheriff Tomás Sanchez started to take +the prisoner north, and at Wilmington boarded the little steamer +_Cricket_ to go out to the _Senator_, which was ready to sail. A +goodly number of other passengers also boarded the tugboat, though +nothing in particular was thought of the circumstance; but once out in +the harbor, a group of Vigilantes, indignant at the light sentence +imposed, seized the culprit at a prearranged signal, threw a noose +about his neck and, in a jiffy, hung him to the flagstaff. When he was +dead, the body was lowered and stones--brought aboard in packages by +the committee, who had evidently considered every detail--were tied to +the feet, and the corpse was thrown overboard before the steamer was +reached. This was one of the acts of the Vigilantes that no one seemed +to deprecate. + +Toward the end of 1861, J. E. Pleasants, while overseeing one of +Wolfskill's ranches, hit the trail of some horse thieves and, +assisted by City Marshal William C. Warren, pursued and captured +several, who were sent to the penitentiary. One, however, escaped. +This was Charles Wilkins, a veritable scoundrel who, having stolen a +pistol and a knife from the Bella Union and put the same into the +hands of young Wood (whose lynching I have described), sent the lad on +his way to the gallows. A couple of years later Wilkins waylaid and +murdered John Sanford, a rancher living near Fort Tejón and a brother +of Captain W. T. B. Sanford, the second Postmaster of Los Angeles; and +when the murderer had been apprehended and was being tried, an +exciting incident occurred, to which I was an eye-witness. On November +16th, 1854, Phineas Banning had married Miss Rebecca Sanford, a sister +of the unfortunate man; and as Banning caught sight of Wilkins, he +rushed forward and endeavoured to avenge the crime by shooting the +culprit. Banning was then restrained; but soon after, on December +17th, 1863, he led the Vigilance Committee which strung up Wilkins on +Tomlinson & Griffith's corral gateway where nearly a dozen culprits +had already forfeited their lives. + + + + +CHAPTER XXIII + +ASSASSINATION OF LINCOLN + +1864-1865 + + +Of all years of adversity before, during or since the Civil War, the +seemingly interminable year of 1864 was for Southern California the +worst. The varying moves in the great struggle, conducted mostly by +Grant and Lee, Sherman and Farragut, buoyed now one, now the other +side; but whichever way the tide of battle turned, business and +financial conditions here altered but little and improved not a whit. +The Southwest, as I have already pointed out, was more dependent for +its prosperity on natural conditions, such as rain, than upon the +victory of any army or fleet; and as this was the last of three +successive seasons of annihilating drought, ranchman and merchant +everywhere became downhearted. During the entire winter of 1862-63 no +more than four inches of rain had fallen, and in 1864 not until March +was there a shower, and even then the earth was scarcely moistened. +With a total assessment of something like two million dollars in the +County, not a cent of taxes (at least in the city) was collected. Men +were so miserably poor that confidence mutually weakened, and +merchants refused to trust those who, as land and cattle-barons, but a +short time before had been so influential and most of whom, in another +and more favorable season or two, were again operators of affluence. +How great was the depreciation in values may be seen from the fact +that notes given by Francis Temple, and bearing heavy interest, were +peddled about at fifty cents on the dollar and even then found few +purchasers. + +As a result of these very infrequent rains, grass started up only to +wither away, a small district around Anaheim independent of the +rainfall on account of its fine irrigation system, alone being green; +and thither the lean and thirsty cattle came by thousands, rushing in +their feverish state against the great willow-fence I have elsewhere +described. This stampede became such a menace, in fact, that the +Anaheimers were summoned to defend their homes and property, and +finally they had to place a mounted guard outside of the willow +enclosures. Everywhere large numbers of horses and cattle died, as +well as many sheep, the plains at length being strewn with carcasses +and bleached bones. The suffering of the poor animals beggars +description; and so distressed with hunger were they that I saw +famished cattle (during the summer of 1864 while on a visit to the +springs at Paso de Robles) crowd around the hotel veranda for the +purpose of devouring the discarded matting-containers which had held +Chinese rice. I may also add that with the approach of summer the +drought became worse and worse, contributing in no small degree to the +spread of smallpox, then epidemic here. Stearns lost forty or fifty +thousand head of live stock, and was much the greatest sufferer in +this respect; and as a result, he was compelled, about June, 1865, to +mortgage Los Alamitos _rancho_, with its twenty-six thousand acres, to +Michael Reese of San Francisco, for the almost paltry sum of twenty +thousand dollars. Even this sacrifice, however, did not save him from +still greater financial distress. + +In 1864, two Los Angeles merchants, Louis Schlesinger and Hyman +Tischler, owing to the recent drought foreclosed a mortgage on several +thousand acres of land known as the Ricardo Vejar property, lying +between Los Angeles and San Bernardino. Shortly after this +transaction, Schlesinger was killed while on his way to San Francisco, +in the _Ada Hancock_ explosion; after which Tischler purchased +Schlesinger's interest in the ranch and managed it alone. + +In January, Tischler invited me to accompany him on one of the +numerous excursions which he made to his newly-acquired possession, +but, though I was inclined to go, a business engagement interfered +and kept me in town. Poor Edward Newman, another friend of Tischler's, +took my place. On the way to San Bernardino from the _rancho_, the +travelers were ambushed by some Mexicans, who shot Newman dead. It was +generally assumed that the bullets were intended for Tischler, in +revenge for his part in the foreclosure; at any rate, he would never +go to the ranch again, and finally sold it to Don Louis Phillips, on +credit, for thirty thousand dollars. The inventory included large +herds of horses and cattle, which Phillips (during the subsequent wet +season) drove to Utah, where he realized sufficient from their sale +alone to pay for the whole property. Pomona and other important places +now mark the neighborhood where once roamed his herds. Phillips died +some years ago at the family residence which he had built on the ranch +near Spadra. + +James R. Toberman, after a trying experience with Texan Redskins, came +to Los Angeles in 1864, President Lincoln having appointed him United +States Revenue Assessor here, an office which he held for six years. +At the same time, as an exceptional privilege for a Government +officer, Toberman was permitted to become agent for Wells Fargo & +Company. + +Again the Fourth of July was not celebrated here, the two factions in +the community still opposing each other with bitterness. Hatred of the +National Government had increased through an incident of the previous +spring which stirred the town mightily. On the eighth or ninth of May, +a group stood discussing the Fort Pillow Massacre, when J. F. +Bilderback indiscreetly expressed the wish that the Confederates would +annihilate every negro taken with arms, and every white man, as well, +who might be found in command of colored troops; or some such equally +dangerous and foolish sentiment. The indiscretion was reported to the +Government authorities, and Bilderback was straightway arrested by a +lieutenant of cavalry, though he was soon released. + +Among the most rabid Democrats, particularly during the Civil War +period, was Nigger Pete the barber. One hot day in August, patriotic +Biggs vociferously proclaimed his ardent attachment to the cause of +Secession; whereupon he was promptly arrested, placed in charge of +half a dozen cavalrymen, and made to foot it, with an iron chain and +ball attached to his ankle, all the way from Los Angeles to Drum +Barracks at Wilmington. Not in the least discouraged by his uncertain +position, however, Pete threw his hat up into the air as he passed +some acquaintances on the road, and gave three hearty cheers for Jeff +Davis, thus bringing about the completion of his difficulty. + +For my part, I have good reason to remember the drought and crisis of +1864, not alone because times were miserably hard and prosperity +seemed to have disappeared forever, or that the important revenue from +Uncle Sam, although it relieved the situation, was never sufficient to +go around, but also because of an unfortunate investment. I bought and +shipped many thousands of hides which owners had taken from the +carcasses of their starved cattle, forwarding them to San Francisco by +schooner or steamer, and thence to New York by sailing vessel. A large +number had commenced to putrefy before they were removed, which fact +escaped my attention; and on their arrival in the East, the +decomposing skins had to be taken out to sea again and thrown +overboard, so that the net results of this venture were disastrous. +However, we all met the difficulties of the situation as +philosophically as we could. + +There were no railroads in California until the late sixties and, +consequently, there was no regular method of concentration, nor any +systematic marketing of products; and this had a very bad economic +effect on the whole State. Prices were extremely high during her early +history, and especially so in 1864. Barley sold at three and a half +cents per pound; potatoes went up to twelve and a half cents; and +flour reached fifteen dollars per barrel, at wholesale. Much flour in +wooden barrels was then brought from New York by sailing vessels; and +my brother imported a lot during a period of inflation, some of which +he sold at thirteen dollars. Isaac Friedlander, a San Francisco +pioneer, who was not alone the tallest man in that city but was as +well a giant operator in grain and its products, practically +monopolized the wheat and flour business of the town; and when he +heard of this interference, he purchased all the remainder of my +brother's flour at thirteen dollars a barrel, and so secured control +of the situation. + +Just before this transaction, I happened to be in San Francisco and +noticing the advertisement of an approaching flour auction, I attended +the sale. This particular lot was packed in sacks which had been eaten +into by rats and mice and had, in consequence, to be resacked, +sweepings and all. I bought one hundred barrels and shipped the flour +to Los Angeles, and B. Dubordieu, the corpulent little French baker, +considered himself fortunate in obtaining it at fifteen dollars per +barrel. + +Speaking of foodstuffs, I may note that red beans then commanded a +price of twelve and a half cents per pound, until a sailing vessel +from Chile unexpectedly landed a cargo in San Francisco and sent the +price dropping to a cent and a quarter; when commission men, among +them myself, suffered heavy losses. + +In 1864, F. Bachman & Company sold out. Their retirement was ascribed +in a measure to the series of bad years, but the influence of their +wives was a powerful factor in inducing them to withdraw. The firm had +been compelled to accept large parcels of real estate in payment of +accounts; and now, while preparing to leave, Bachman & Co. sacrificed +their fine holdings at prices considered ridiculous even then. The +only one of these sales that I remember was that of a lot with a +frontage of one hundred and twenty feet on Fort Street, and a +one-story adobe house, which they disposed of for four hundred +dollars. + +I have told of Don Juan Forster's possessions--the Santa Margarita +_rancho_, where he lived until his death, and also the Las Flores. +These he obtained in 1864, when land was worth but the merest song, +buying the same from Pio Pico, his brother-in-law. The two ranches +included over a hundred and forty thousand acres, and pastured some +twenty-five thousand cattle, three thousand horses and six or seven +thousand sheep; yet the transaction, on account of the season, was a +fiscal operation of but minor importance. + +The hard times strikingly conduced to criminality and, since there +were then probably not more than three or four policemen in Los +Angeles, some of the desperadoes, here in large numbers and not +confined to any particular nationality or color, took advantage of the +conditions, even making several peculiar nocturnal assaults upon the +guardians of the peace. The methods occasionally adopted satisfied the +community that Mexican _bandidos_ were at work. Two of these worthies +on horseback, while approaching a policeman, would suddenly dash in +opposite directions, bringing a _reata_ (in the use of which they were +always most proficient) taut to the level of their saddles; and +striking the policeman with the hide or hair rope, they would throw +him to the ground with such force as to disable him. Then the +ingenious robbers would carry out their well-planned depredations in +the neighborhood and disappear with their booty. + +J. Ross Browne, one of the active Forty-niners in San Francisco and +author of _Crusoe's Island_ and various other volumes dealing with +early life in California and along the Coast, was on and off a visitor +to Los Angeles, first passing through here in 1859, _en route_ to the +Washoe Gold fields, and stopping again in 1864. + +Politics enlivened the situation somewhat in the fall of this year of +depression. In September, the troops were withdrawn from Catalina +Island, and the following month most of the guard was brought in from +Fort Tejón; and this, creating possibly a feeling of security, paved +the way for still larger Union meetings in October and November. +Toward the end of October, Francisco P. Ramirez, formerly editor of +_El Clamor Público_, was made Postmaster, succeeding William G. Still, +upon whose life an attempt had been made while he was in office. + +As an illustration of how a fortunate plunger acquired property now +worth millions, through the disinclination on the part of most people +here to add to their taxes in this time of drought, I may mention two +pieces of land included in the early Ord survey, one hundred and +twenty by one hundred and sixty-five feet in size--one at the +southwest corner of Spring and Fourth streets, the other at the +southeast corner of Fort and Fourth--which were sold on December 12th, +1864, for _two dollars and fifty-two cents_, delinquent taxes. The tax +on each lot was but one dollar and twenty-six cents, yet only one +purchaser appeared! + +About that very time, there was another and noteworthy movement in +favor of the establishment of a railroad between Los Angeles and San +Pedro. In December, committees from outside towns met here with our +citizens to debate the subject; but by the end of the several days' +conference, no real progress had been made. + +The year 1865 gave scant promise, at least in its opening, of better +times to come. To be sure, Northern arms were more and more +victorious, and with the approach of Lincoln's second inauguration the +conviction grew that under the leadership of such a man national +prosperity might return. Little did we dream that the most dramatic of +all tragedies in our history was soon to be enacted. In Southern +California the effects of the long drought continued, and the +certainty that the cattle-industry, once so vast and flourishing, was +now but a memory, discouraged a people to whom the vision of a far +more profitable use of the land had not yet been revealed. + +For several years my family, including three children, had been +shifting from pillar to post owing to the lack of residences such as +are now built to sell or lease, and I could not postpone any longer +the necessity of obtaining larger quarters. We had occupied, at +various times, a little shanty on Franklin Street, owned by a +carpenter named Wilson; a small, one-story brick on Main Street near +First, owned by Henne, the brewer; and once we lived with the Kremers +in a one-story house, none too large, on Fort Street. Again we dwelt +on Fort Street in a little brick house that stood on the site of the +present Chamber of Commerce building, next door to Governor Downey's, +before he moved to Main Street. The nearest approach to convenience +was afforded by our occupancy of Henry Dalton's two-story brick on +Main Street near Second. One day a friend told me that Jim Easton had +an adobe on Main Street near Third, which he wished to sell; and on +inquiry, I bought the place, paying him a thousand dollars for +fifty-four feet, the entire frontage being occupied by the house. Main +Street, beyond First, was practically in the same condition as at the +time of my arrival, no streets running east having been opened south +of First. + +After moving in, we were inconvenienced because there was no driveway, +and everything needed for housekeeping had to be carried, in +consequence, through the front door of the dwelling. I therefore +interviewed my friend and neighbor, Ygnácio Garcia, who owned a +hundred feet adjoining me, and asked him if he would sell or rent me +twenty feet of his property; whereupon he permitted me the free use of +twenty feet, thus supplying me with access to the rear of my house. A +few months later, Alfred B. Chapman, Garcia's legal adviser (who, by +the way, is still alive)[25] brought me a deed to the twenty feet of +land, the only expense being a fee of twenty-five dollars to Chapman +for making out the document; and later Garcia sold his remaining +eighty feet to Tom Mott for five dollars a foot. This lot is still in +my possession. In due time, I put up a large, old-fashioned wooden +barn with a roomy hay-loft, stalls for a couple of horses or mules, +and space for a large flat-truck, the first of the kind for years in +Los Angeles. John Simmons had his room in the barn and was one of my +first porters. I had no regular driver for the truck, but John usually +served in that capacity. + +Incidentally to this story of my selecting a street on which to live, +I may say that during the sixties Main and San Pedro streets were +among the chief residential sections, and Spring Street was only +beginning to be popular for homes. The fact that some people living on +the west side of Main Street built their stables in back-yards +connecting with Spring Street, retarded the latter's growth. + +Here I may well repeat the story of the naming of Spring Street, +particularly as it exemplifies the influence that romance sometimes +has upon affairs usually prosaic. Ord, the surveyor, was then more +than prepossessed in favor of the delightful Señorita Trinidad de la +Guerra, for whose hand he was, in fact, a suitor and to whom he always +referred as _Mi Primavera_--"My Springtime;" and when asked to name +the new thoroughfare, he gallantly replied, "Primavera, of course! +Primavera!" + +On February 3d, a wind-storm, the like of which the proverbial "oldest +inhabitant" could scarcely recall, struck Los Angeles amidships, +unroofing many houses and blowing down orchards. Wolfskill lost +heavily, and Banning & Company's large barn at the northeast corner of +Fort and Second streets, near the old schoolhouse, was demolished, +scarcely a post remaining upright. A curious sight, soon after the +storm began to blow, was that of many citizens weighing down and +lashing fast their roofs, just as they do in Sweden, Norway and +Switzerland, to keep them from being carried to unexpected, not to say +inconvenient, locations. + +In early days, steamers plying up and down the Pacific Coast, as I +have pointed out, were so poor in every respect that it was necessary +to make frequent changes in their names, to induce passengers to +travel on them at all. As far back as 1860, one frequently heard the +expression, "the old tubs;" and in 1865, even the best-known boat on +the Southern run was publicly discussed as "the rotten old _Senator_," +"the old hulk" and "the floating coffin." At this time, there was a +strong feeling against the Steam Navigation Company for its arbitrary +treatment of the public, its steamers sometimes leaving a whole day +before the date on which they were advertised to depart; and this +criticism and dissatisfaction finally resulted in the putting on of +the opposition steamer _Pacific_ which for the time became popular. + +In 1865, Judge Benjamin S. Eaton tried another agricultural experiment +which many persons of more experience at first predicted would be a +failure. He had moved into the cottage at _Fair Oaks_, built by the +estimable lady of General Albert Sidney Johnston, and had planted five +thousand or more grapevines in the good though dry soil; but the lack +of surface water caused vineyardists to shake their heads +incredulously. The vines prospered so well that, in the following +year, Eaton planted five or six times as many more. He came to the +conclusion, however, that he must have water; and so arranged to bring +some from what is now known as Eaton's Cañon. I remember that, after +his vines began to bear, the greatest worry of the Judge was not the +matter of irrigation, but the wild beasts that preyed upon the +clustering fruit. The visitor to Pasadena and Altadena to-day can +hardly realize that in those very localities both coyotes and bears +were rampant, and that many a night the irate Judge was roused by the +barking dogs as they drove the intruders out of the vineyard. + +Tomlinson & Company, always energetic competitors in the business of +transportation in Southern California, began running, about the first +of April, a new stage line between Los Angeles and San Bernardino, +making three trips a week. + +On the fifteenth of April, my family physician, Dr. John S. Griffin, +paid a professional visit to my house on Main Street, which might have +ended disastrously for him. While we were seated together by an open +window in the dining-room, a man named Kane ran by on the street, +shouting out the momentous news that Abraham Lincoln had been shot! +Griffin, who was a staunch Southerner, was on his feet instantly, +cheering for Jeff Davis. He gave evidence, indeed, of great mental +excitement, and soon seized his hat and rushed for the door, hurrahing +for the Confederacy. In a flash, I realized that Griffin would be in +awful jeopardy if he reached the street in that unbalanced condition, +and by main force I held him back, convincing him at last of his +folly. In later years the genial Doctor frankly admitted that I had +undoubtedly saved him from certain death. + +This incident brings to mind another, associated with Henry Baer, +whose father, Abraham, a native of Bavaria and one of the earliest +tailors here, had arrived from New Orleans in 1854. When Lincoln's +assassination was first known, Henry ran out of the house, singing +_Dixie_ and shouting for the South; but his father, overtaking him, +brought him back and gave him a sound whipping--an act nearly breaking +up the Baer family, inasmuch as Mrs. Baer was a pronounced +Secessionist. + +The news of Lincoln's assassination made a profound impression in Los +Angeles, though it cannot be denied that some Southern sympathizers, +on first impulse, thought that it would be advantageous to the +Confederate cause. There was, therefore, for the moment, some +ill-advised exultation; but this was promptly suppressed, either by +the military or by the firm stand of the more level-headed members of +the community. Soon even radically-inclined citizens, in an effort to +uphold the fair name of the town, fell into line, and steps were taken +fittingly to mourn the nation's loss. On the seventeenth of April, the +Common Council passed appropriate resolutions; and Governor Low having +telegraphed that Lincoln's funeral would be held in Washington on the +nineteenth, at twelve o'clock noon, the Union League of Los Angeles +took the initiative and invited the various societies of the city to +join in a funeral procession. + +On April 19th all the stores were closed, business was suspended and +soldiers as well as civilians assembled in front of Arcadia Block. +There were present United States officers, mounted cavalry under +command of Captain Ledyard; the Mayor and Common Council; various +lodges; the Hebrew Congregation B'nai-B'rith; the Teutonia, the French +Benevolent and the Junta Patriotica societies, and numerous citizens. +Under the marshalship of S. F. Lamson the procession moved slowly over +what to-day would be regarded as an insignificantly short route: west +on Arcadia Street to Main; down Main Street to Spring as far as First; +east on First Street to Main and up Main Street, proceeding back to +the City Hall by way of Spring, at which point the parade disbanded. + +Later, on the same day, there were memorial services in the upper +story of the old Temple Court House, where Rev. Elias Birdsall, the +Episcopal clergyman, delivered a splendid oration and panegyric; and +at the same time, the members of the Hebrew Congregation met at the +house of Rabbi A. W. Edelman. Prayers for the martyred President were +uttered, and supplication was made for the recovery of Secretary of +State Seward. The resolutions presented on this occasion concluded as +follows: + + RESOLVED, that with feelings of the deepest sorrow we + deplore the loss our country has sustained in the untimely + end of our late President; but as it has pleased the + Almighty to deprive this Country of its Chief and great + friend, we bow with submission to the All-wise Will. + +I may add that, soon after the assassination of the President, the +Federal authorities sent an order to Los Angeles to arrest anyone +found rejoicing in the foul deed; and that several persons, soon in +the toils, were severely dealt with. In San Francisco, too, when the +startling news was flashed over the wires, Unionist mobs demolished +the plants of the _Democratic Press_, the _News Letter_ and a couple +of other journals very abusive toward the martyred Emancipator; the +editors and publishers themselves escaping with their lives only by +flight and concealment. + +Notwithstanding the strong Secessionist sentiment in Los Angeles +during much of the Civil War period, the City election resulted in a +Unionist victory. José Mascarel was elected Mayor; William C. Warren, +Marshal; J. F. Burns, Treasurer; J. H. Lander, Attorney; and J. W. +Beebe, Assessor. The triumph of the Federal Government doubtless at +once began to steady and improve affairs throughout the country; but +it was some time before any noticeable progress was felt here. +Particularly unfortunate were those who had gone east or south for +actual service, and who were obliged to make their way, finally, back +to the Coast. Among such volunteers was Captain Cameron E. Thom who, +on landing at San Pedro, was glad to have J. M. Griffith advance him +money enough to reach Los Angeles and begin life again. + +Outdoor restaurant gardens were popular in the sixties. On April 23d, +the Tivoli Garden was reopened by Henry Sohms, and thither, on +holidays and Sundays, many pleasure-lovers gravitated. + +Sometime in the spring and during the incumbency of Rev. Elias +Birdsall as rector, the Right Reverend William Ingraham Kip, who had +come to the Pacific Coast in 1853, made his first visit to the +Episcopal Church in Los Angeles, as Bishop of California, although +really elevated to that high office seven years before. Bishop Kip was +one of the young clergy who pleaded with the unresponsive culprits +strung up by the San Francisco Vigilance Committee of 1856; and later +he was known as an author. The Reverend Birdsall, by the way, was +Rector of St. Paul's School on Olive Street, between Fifth and Sixth, +as late as 1887. + +John G. Downey subdivided the extensive Santa Gertrudis _rancho_ on +the San Gabriel River in the spring, and the first deed was made out +to J. H. Burke, a son-in-law of Captain Jesse Hunter. Burke, a man of +splendid physique, was a blacksmith whose Main Street shop was next to +the site of the present Van Nuys Hotel. Downey and he exchanged +properties, the ex-Governor building a handsome brick residence on +Burke's lot, and Burke removing his blacksmith business to Downey's +new town where, by remaining until the property had appreciated, he +became well-to-do. + +I have alluded to the Dominguez _rancho_, known as the San Pedro, but +I have not said that, in 1865, some four thousand acres of this +property were sold to Temple & Gibson at thirty-five cents an acre, +and that on a portion of this land G. D. Compton founded the town +named after him and first called Comptonville. It was really a +Methodist Church enterprise, planned from the beginning as a pledge to +teetotalism, and is of particular interest because it is one of the +oldest towns in Los Angeles County, and certainly the first "dry" +community. Compton paid Temple & Gibson five dollars an acre. + +Toward the end of the War, that is, in May, Major-General Irwin +McDowell, the unfortunate commander of the Army of the Potomac who had +been nearly a year in charge of the Department of the Pacific, made +Los Angeles a long-announced visit, coming on the Government steamer +_Saginaw_. The distinguished officer, his family and suite were +speedily whirled to the Bella Union, the competing drivers shouting +and cursing themselves hoarse in their efforts to get the General or +the General's wife, in different stages, there first. As was customary +in those simpler days, most of the townsfolk whose politics would +permit called upon the guest; and Editor Conway and other Unionists +were long closeted with him. After thirty-six hours or more, during +which the General inspected the local Government headquarters and the +ladies were driven to, and entertained at, various homes, the party, +accompanied by Collector James and Attorney-General McCullough, +boarded the cutter and made off for the North. + +Anticipating this visit of General McDowell, due preparations were +made to receive him. It happened, however, as I have indicated, that +José Mascarel was then Mayor; and since he had never been able to +express himself freely in English, though speaking Spanish as well as +French, it was feared that embarrassment must follow the meeting of +the civil and military personages. Luckily, however, like many scions +of early well-to-do American families, McDowell had been educated in +France, and the two chiefs were soon having a free and easy talk in +Mascarel's native tongue. + +An effort, on May 2d, better to establish St. Vincent's College as the +one institution of higher learning here was but natural at that time. +In the middle of the sixties, quite as many children attended private +academies in Los Angeles County as were in the public schools, while +three-fifths of all children attended no school at all. At the +beginning of the Twentieth Century, two-thirds of all the children in +the county attended public schools. + +FOOTNOTE: + +[25] Died, January 22d, 1915. + + + + +CHAPTER XXIV + +H. NEWMARK & CO.--CARLISLE-KING DUEL + +1865-1866 + + +From 1862 I continued for three years, as I have told, in the +commission business; and notwithstanding the bad seasons, I was thus +pursuing a sufficiently easy and pleasant existence when a remark +which, after the lapse of time, I see may have been carelessly +dropped, inspired me with the determination to enter again upon a more +strenuous and confining life. + +On Friday, June 18th, 1865, I was seated in my little office, when a +Los Angeles merchant named David Solomon, whose store was in the +Arcadia Block, called upon me and, with much feeling, related that +while returning by steamer from the North, Prudent Beaudry had made +the senseless boast that he would drive every Jew in Los Angeles out +of business. Beaudry, then a man of large means, conducted in his +one-story adobe building on the northeast corner of Aliso and Los +Angeles streets the largest general merchandise establishment this +side of San Francisco. I listened to Solomon's recital without giving +expression to my immediately-formed resolve; but no sooner had he left +than I closed my office and started for Wilmington. + + [Illustration: Kaspare Cohn] + + [Illustration: M. A. Newmark] + + [Illustration: H. Newmark & Co.'s Store, Arcadia Block, about 1875, + Including (left) John Jones's Former Premises] + + [Illustration: H. Newmark & Co.'s Building, Amestoy Block, about + 1884] + +During the twelve years that I had been in California the forwarding +business between Los Angeles and the Coast had seen many changes. +Tomlinson & Company, who had bought out A. W. Timms, controlled the +largest tonnage in town, including that of Beaudry, Jones, Childs and +others; while Banning & Company, although actively engaged in the +transportation to Yuma of freight and supplies for the United States +Government, were handicapped for lack of business into Los Angeles. I +thought, therefore, that Phineas Banning would eagerly seize an +opportunity to pay his score to the numerous local merchants who had +treated him with so little consideration. Besides, a very close +intimacy existed between him and myself, which may best be illustrated +by the fact that, for years past when short of cash, Banning used to +come to my old sheet-iron safe and help himself according to his +requirements. + +Arriving in Wilmington, I found Banning loading a lot of teams with +lumber. I related the substance of Solomon's remarks and proposed a +secret partnership, with the understanding that, providing he would +release me from the then existing charge of seven dollars and a half +per ton for hauling freight from Wilmington to Los Angeles, I should +supply the necessary capital, purchase a stock of goods, conduct the +business without cost to him and then divide the profits if any should +accrue. Banning said, "I must first consult Don David," meaning +Alexander, his partner, promising at the same time to report the +result within a few days. While I was at dinner, therefore, on the +following Sunday, Patrick Downey, Banning's Los Angeles agent, called +on me and stated that "the Chief" was in his office in the Downey +Block, on the site of Temple's old adobe, and would be glad to see me. + +Without further parleying, Banning accepted my proposition; and on the +following morning, or June 21st, I rented the last vacant store in +Stearns's Arcadia Block on Los Angeles Street, which stands to-day, by +the way, much as it was erected in 1858. It adjoined John Jones's, and +was nearly opposite the establishment of P. Beaudry. There I put up +the sign of H. Newmark, soon to be changed to H. Newmark & Company; +and it is a source of no little gratification to me that from this +small beginning has developed the wholesale grocery firm of M. A. +Newmark & Company.[26] + +At that time, Stearns's property was all in the hands of the Sheriff, +Tomás Sanchez, who had also been appointed Receiver; and like all the +other tenants, I rented my storeroom from Deputy A. J. King. Rents and +other incomes were paid to the Receiver, and out of them a regular +monthly allowance of fifty dollars was made to Stearns for his private +expenses. The stock on Stearns's ranches, by the way, was then in +charge of Pierre Domec, a well-known and prosperous man, who was here +perhaps a decade before I came. + +My only assistant was my wide-awake nephew, M. A. Newmark, then +fifteen years of age, who had arrived in Los Angeles early in 1865. At +my request Banning & Company released their bookkeeper, Frank +Lecouvreur, and I engaged him. He was a thoroughly reliable man and +had, besides, a technical knowledge of wagon materials, in which, as a +sideline, I expected to specialize. While all of these arrangements +were being completed, the local business world queried and buzzed as +to my intentions. + +Having rented quarters, I immediately telegraphed my brother, J. P. +Newmark, to buy and ship a quantity of flour, sugar, potatoes, salt +and other heavy staples; and these I sold, upon arrival, at cost and +steamer freight plus seven dollars and a half per ton. Since the +departure of my brother from Los Angeles for permanent residence in +San Francisco (where he entered into partnership with Isaac Lightner, +forming J. P. Newmark & Company), he had been engaged in the +commission business; and this afforded me facilities I might +otherwise not have had. Inasmuch also, as all of my neighbors were +obliged to pay this toll for hauling, while I was not, they were +forced to do business at cost. About the first of July, I went to San +Francisco and laid in a complete stock paralleling, with the exception +of clothing and dry goods, the lines handled by Beaudry. Banning, who +was then building prairie schooners for which he had ordered some +three hundred and fifty tons of iron and other wagon materials, joined +me in chartering the brig _Tanner_ on which I loaded an equal tonnage +of general merchandise, wagon parts and blacksmith coal. The very +important trade with Salt Lake City, elsewhere described, helped us +greatly, for we at once negotiated with the Mormon leaders; and giving +them credit when they were short of funds, it was not long before we +were brought into constant communication with Brigham Young and +through his influence monopolized the Salt Lake business. + +Thinking over these days of our dealings with the Latterday Saints, I +recall a very amusing experience with an apostle named Crosby, who +once brought down a number of teams and wagons to load with supplies. +During his visit to town, I invited him and several of his friends to +dinner; and in answer to the commonplace inquiry as to his preference +for some particular part of a dish, Crosby made the logical Mormonite +reply that _quantity_ was what appealed to him most--a flash of wit +much appreciated by all of the guests. During this same visit, Crosby +tried hard to convert me to Mormonism; but, after several ineffectual +interviews, he abandoned me as a hopeless case. + +At another time, while reflecting on my first years as a wholesale +grocer, I was led to examine a day-book of 1867 and to draw a +comparison between the prices then current and now, when the high cost +of living is so much discussed. Raw sugar sold at fourteen cents; +starch at sixteen; crushed sugar at seventeen; ordinary tea at sixty; +coal oil at sixty-five cents a gallon; axle-grease at seventy-five +cents per tin; bluing at one dollar a pound; and wrapping paper at one +dollar and a half per ream. Spices, not yet sold in cans, cost three +dollars for a dozen bottles; yeast powders, now superseded by baking +powder, commanded the same price per dozen; twenty-five pounds of shot +in a bag cost three dollars and a half; while in October of that year, +blacksmith coal, shipped in casks holding fifteen hundred and +ninety-two pounds each, sold at the rate of fifty dollars a ton. + +The steamers _Oriflamme_, _California_, _Pacific_ and _Sierra Nevada_ +commenced to run in 1866 and continued until about the middle of the +seventies. The _Pacific_ was later sunk in the Straits of San Juan de +Fuca; and the _Sierra Nevada_ was lost on the rocks off Port Harford. +The _Los Angeles_, the _Ventura_ and the _Constantine_ were steamers +of a somewhat later date, seldom going farther south than San Pedro +and continuing to run until they were lost. + +To resume the suggestive story of I. W. Hellman, who remained in +business with his cousin until he was able in 1865 to buy out Adolph +Portugal and embark for himself, at the corner of Main and Commercial +streets: during his association with large landowners and men of +affairs, who esteemed him for his practicality, he was fortunate in +securing their confidence and patronage; and being asked so often to +operate for them in financial matters, he laid the foundation for his +subsequent career as a banker, in which he has attained such success. + +The Pioneer Oil Company had been organized about the first of +February, with Phineas Banning, President; P. Downey, Secretary; +Charles Ducommon, Treasurer; and Winfield S. Hancock, Dr. John S. +Griffin, Dr. J. B. Winston, M. Keller, B. D. Wilson, J. G. Downey and +Volney E. Howard among the trustees; and the company soon acquired +title to all _brea_, petroleum or rock oil in San Pasqual _rancho_. In +the early summer, Sackett & Morgan, on Main Street near the Post +Office, exhibited some local kerosene or "coal-oil;" and experimenters +were gathering the oil that floated on Pico Spring and refining it, +without distillation, at a cost of ten cents a gallon. Coming just +when Major Stroble announced progress in boring at la Cañada de Brea, +these ventures increased here the excitement about oil and soon after +wells were sunk in the Camulos _rancho_. + +On Wednesday afternoon, July 5th, at four o'clock, occurred one of the +pleasant social occasions of the mid-sixties--the wedding of Solomon +Lazard and Miss Caroline, third daughter of Joseph Newmark. The +bride's father performed the ceremony at M. Kremer's residence on Main +Street, near my own adobe and the site on which, later, C. E. Thom +built his charming residence, with its rural attractions, diagonally +across from the pleasant grounds of Colonel J. G. Howard. The same +evening at half-past eight a ball and dinner at the Bella Union +celebrated the event. + +While these festivities were taking place, a quarrel, ending in a +tragedy, began in the hotel office below. Robert Carlisle, who had +married Francisca, daughter of Colonel Isaac Williams, and was the +owner of some forty-six thousand acres comprising the Chino Ranch, +fell into an altercation with A. J. King, then Under Sheriff, over the +outcome of a murder trial; but before any further damage was done, +friends separated them. + +About noon on the following day, however, when people were getting +ready to leave for the steamer and everything was life and bustle +about the hotel, Frank and Houston King, the Under Sheriff's brothers, +passing by the bar-room of the Bella Union and seeing Carlisle inside, +entered, drew their six-shooters and began firing at him. Carlisle +also drew a revolver and shot Frank King, who died almost instantly. +Houston King kept up the fight, and Carlisle, riddled with bullets, +dropped to the sidewalk. There King, not yet seriously injured, struck +his opponent on the head, the force of the blow breaking his weapon; +but Carlisle, a man of iron, put forth his little remaining strength, +staggered to the wall, raised his pistol with both hands, took +deliberate aim and fired. It was his last, but effective shot, for it +penetrated King's body. + +Carlisle was carried into the hotel and placed on a billiard-table; +and there, about three o'clock, he expired. At the first exchange of +shots, the people nearby, panic-stricken, fled, and only a merciful +Providence prevented the sacrifice of other lives. J. H. Lander was +accidentally wounded in the thigh; some eight or ten bystanders had +their clothes pierced by stray bullets; and one of the stage-horses +dropped where he stood before the hotel door. When the first shot was +fired, I was on the corner of Commercial Street, only a short distance +away, and reached the scene in time to see Frank King expire and +witness Carlisle writhing in agony--a death more striking, considering +the murder of Carlisle's brother-in-law, John Rains. Carlisle was +buried from the Bella Union at four o'clock the next day. King's +funeral took place from A. J. King's residence, two days later, at +eight o'clock in the morning. + +Houston King having recovered, he was tried for Carlisle's murder, but +was acquitted; the trial contributing to make the affair one of the +most mournful of all tragic events in the early history of Los +Angeles, and rendering it impossible to express the horror of the +public. One feature only of the terrible contest afforded a certain +satisfaction, and that was the splendid exhibition of those qualities, +in some respects heroic, so common among the old Californians of that +time. + +July was clouded with a particularly gruesome murder. George Williams +and Cyrus Kimball of San Diego, while removing with their families to +Los Angeles, had spent the night near the Santa Ana River, and while +some distance from camp, at sunrise next morning, were overtaken by +seven armed desperadoes, under the leadership of one Jack O'Brien, and +without a word of explanation, were shot dead. The women, hearing the +commotion, ran toward the spot, only to be commanded by the robbers to +deliver all money and valuables in their possession. Over three +thousand dollars--the entire savings of their husbands--was secured, +after which the murderers made their escape. _Posses_ scoured the +surrounding country, but the cutthroats were never apprehended. + +Stimulated, perhaps, by the King-Carlisle tragedy, the Common Council +in July prohibited everybody except officers and travelers from +carrying a pistol, dirk, sling-shot or sword; but the measure lacked +public support, and little or no attention was paid to the law. + +Some idea of the modest proportion of business affairs in the early +sixties may be gathered from the fact that, when the Los Angeles Post +Office, on August 10th, was made a money-deposit office, it was +obligatory that all cash in excess of five hundred dollars should be +despatched by steamer to San Francisco. + +In 1865, W. H. Perry, having been given a franchise to light the city +with gas, organized the Los Angeles City Gas Company, five years later +selling out his holdings at a large profit. A promise was made to +furnish free gas for lamps at the principal crossings on Main Street +and for lights in the Mayor's office, and the consumers' price at +first agreed upon was ten dollars a thousand cubic feet. + +The history of Westlake Park is full of interest. About 1865, the City +began to sell part of its public land, in lots of thirty-five acres, +employing E. W. Noyes as auctioneer. Much of it went at five and ten +dollars an acre; but when the district now occupied by the park and +lake was reached, the auctioneer called in vain for bids at even a +dollar an acre; nobody wanted the alkali hillocks. Then the auctioneer +offered the area at twenty-five cents an acre, but still received no +bids, and the sale was discontinued. In the late eighties, a number of +citizens who had bought land in the vicinity came to Mayor Workman and +promised to pay one-half of the cost of making a lake and laying out +pleasure grounds on the unsightly place; and as the Mayor favored the +plan, it was executed, and this was the first step in the formation of +Westlake Park. + +On September 2d, Dr. J. J. Dyer, a dentist from San Francisco, having +opened an office in the Bella Union hotel, announced that he would +visit the homes of patrons and there extract or repair the sufferers' +teeth. The complicated equipment of a modern dentist would hardly +permit of such peripatetic service to-day, although representatives of +this profession and also certain opticians still travel to many of the +small inland towns in California, once or twice a year, stopping in +each for a week or two at a time. + +I have spoken of the use, in 1853, of river water for drinking, and +the part played by the private water-carrier. This system was still +largely used until the fall when David W. Alexander leased all the +public water-works for four years, together with the privilege of +renewing the lease another four or six years. Alexander was to pay one +thousand dollars rental a year, agreeing also to surrender the plant +to the City at the termination of his contract. On August 7th, +Alexander assigned his lease to Don Louis Sainsevain, and about the +middle of October Sainsevain made a new contract. Damien Marchessault +associated himself with Don Louis and together they laid pipes from +the street now known as Macy throughout the business part of the city, +and as far (!) south as First Street. These water pipes were +constructed of pine logs from the mountains of San Bernardino, bored +and made to join closely at the ends; but they were continually +bursting, causing springs of water that made their way to the surface +of the streets. + +Conway & Waite sold the _News_, then a "tri-weekly" supposed to appear +three times a week, yet frequently issued but twice, to A. J. King & +Company, on November 11th; and King, becoming the editor, made of the +newspaper a semi-weekly. + +To complete what I was saying about the Schlesingers: In 1865, Moritz +returned to Germany. Jacob had arrived in Los Angeles in 1860, but +disappearing four years later, his whereabouts was a mystery until, +one fine day, his brother received a letter from him dated, "Gun Boat +_Pocahontas_." Jake had entered the service of Uncle Sam! The +_Pocahontas_ was engaged in blockade work under command of Admiral +Farragut; and Jake and the Admiral were paying special attention to +Sabine Pass, then fortified by the Confederacy. + +On November 27th, Andrew J. Glassell and Colonel James G. Howard +arrived together in Los Angeles. The former had been admitted to the +California Bar some ten or twelve years before; but in the early +sixties he temporarily abandoned his profession and engaged in +ranching near Santa Cruz. After the War, Glassell drifted back to the +practice of law; and having soon cast his lot with Los Angeles, +formed a partnership with Alfred B. Chapman. Two or three years later, +Colonel George H. Smith, a Confederate Army officer who in the early +seventies lived on Fort Street, was taken into the firm; and for years +Glassell, Chapman and Smith were among the leading attorneys at the +Los Angeles Bar. Glassell died on January 28th, 1901. + +To add to the excitement of the middle sixties, a picturesque street +encounter took place, terminating almost fatally. Colonel, the +redoubtable E. J. C. Kewen, and a good-natured German named Fred +Lemberg, son-in-law to the old miller Bors, having come to blows on +Los Angeles Street near Mellus's Row, Lemberg knocked Kewen down; +whereupon friends interfered and peace was apparently restored. Kewen, +a Southerner, dwelt upon the fancied indignity to which he had been +subjected and went from store to store until he finally borrowed a +pistol; after which, in front of John Jones's, he lay in wait. When +Lemberg, who, because of his nervous energy, was known as the Flying +Dutchman, again appeared, rushing across the street in the direction +of Mellus's Row, the equally excited Colonel opened fire, drawing from +his adversary a retaliatory round of shots. I was standing nearly +opposite the scene and saw the Flying Dutchman and Kewen, each dodging +around a pillar in front of The Row, until finally Lemberg, with a +bullet in his abdomen, ran out into Los Angeles Street and fell to the +ground, his legs convulsively assuming a perpendicular position and +then dropping back. After recovering from what was thought to be a +fatal wound, Lemberg left Los Angeles for Arizona or Mexico; but +before he reached his destination, he was murdered by Indians. + +I have told of the trade between Los Angeles and Salt Lake City, which +started up briskly in 1855, and grew in importance until the +completion of the transcontinental railroad put an end to it. Indeed, +in 1865 and 1866 Los Angeles enterprise pushed forward until +merchandise was teamed as far as Bannock, Idaho, four hundred and +fifty miles beyond Salt Lake, and Helena, Montana, fourteen hundred +miles away. This indicates to what an extent the building of +railroads ultimately affected the early Los Angeles merchants. + +The Spanish drama was the event of December 17th, when Señor Don +Guirado L. del Castillo and Señora Amelia Estrella del Castillo played +_La Trenza de sus Cabellos_ to an enthusiastic audience. + +In 1865 or 1866, William T. Glassell, a younger brother of Andrew +Glassell, came to Los Angeles on a visit; and being attracted by the +Southwest country, he remained to assist Glassell & Chapman in +founding Orange, formerly known as Richland. No doubt pastoral +California looked good to young Glassell, for he had but just passed +eighteen weary months in a Northern military prison. Having thought +out a plan for blowing up the United States ironclads off Charleston +Harbor, Lieutenant Glassell supervised the construction of a +cigar-shaped craft, known as a _David_, which carried a torpedo +attached to the end of a fifteen-foot pole; and on October 5th, 1863, +young Glassell and three other volunteers steamed out in the darkness +against the formidable new _Ironsides_. The torpedo was exploded, +doing no greater damage than to send up a column of water, which fell +onto the ship, and also to hurl the young officers into the bay. +Glassell died here at an early age. + +John T. Best, the Assessor, was another pioneer who had an adventurous +life prior to, and for a long time after, coming to California. Having +run away to sea from his Maine home about the middle fifties, Best +soon found himself among pirates; but escaping their clutches, he came +under the domination of a captain whose cruelty, off desolate Cape +Horn, was hardly preferable to death. Reaching California about 1858, +Best fled from another captain's brutality and, making his way into +the Northern forests, was taken in and protected by kind-hearted +woodmen secluded within palisades. Successive Indian outbreaks +constantly threatened him and his comrades, and for years he was +compelled to defend himself against the savages. At last, safe and +sound, he settled within the pale of civilization, at the outbreak of +the Civil War enlisting as a Union officer in the first battalion of +California soldiers. Since then Best has resided mostly in Los +Angeles. + +The year 1866 is memorable as the concluding period of the great War. +Although Lee had surrendered in the preceding April, more than fifteen +months elapsed before the Washington authorities officially proclaimed +the end of the Titanic struggle which left one-half of the nation +prostrate and the other half burdened with new and untold +responsibilities. By the opening of the year, however, one of the +miracles of modern history--the quiet and speedy return of the soldier +to the vocations of peace--began, and soon some of those who had left +for the front when the War broke out were to be seen again in our +Southland, starting life anew. With them, too, came a few pioneers +from the East, harbingers of an army soon to settle our valleys and +seasides. All in all, the year was the beginning of a brighter era. + +Here it may not be amiss to take up the tale of the mimic war in which +Phineas Banning and I engaged, in the little commercial world of Los +Angeles, and to tell to what an extent the fortunes of my competitors +were influenced, and how the absorption of the transportation charge +from the seaboard caused their downfall. O. W. Childs, in less than +three months, found the competition too severe and surrendered "lock, +stock and barrel;" P. Beaudry, whose vain-glorious boast had stirred +up this rumpus, sold out to me on January 1st, 1866, just a few months +after his big talk. John Jones was the last to yield. + +In January, 1866, I bought out Banning, who was soon to take his seat +in the Legislature for the advancing of his San Pedro Railroad +project, and agreed to pay him, in the future, seven dollars and a +half per ton for hauling my goods from Wilmington to Los Angeles, +which was mutually satisfactory; and when we came to balance up, it +was found that Banning had received, for his part in the enterprise, +an amount equal to all that would otherwise have been charged for +transportation and a tidy sum besides. + +Sam, brother of Kaspare Cohn, who had been in Carson City, Nevada, +came to Los Angeles and joined me. We grew rapidly, and in a short +time became of some local importance. When Kaspare sold out at Red +Bluff, in January, 1866, we tendered him a partnership. We were now +three very busy associates, besides M. A. Newmark, who clerked for us. + +Several references have been made to the trade between Los Angeles and +Arizona, due in part to the needs of the Army there. I remember that +early in February not less than twenty-seven Government wagons were +drawn up in front of H. Newmark & Company's store, to be loaded with +seventy to seventy-five tons of groceries and provisions for troops in +the Territory. + +Notwithstanding the handicaps in this wagon-train traffic, there was +still much objection to railroads, especially to the plan for a line +between Los Angeles and San Pedro, some of the strongest opposition +coming from El Monte where, in February, ranchers circulated a +petition, disapproving railroad bills introduced by Banning into the +Legislature. A common argument was that the railroad would do away +with horses and the demand for barley; and one wealthy citizen who +succeeded in inducing many to follow his lead, vehemently insisted +that two trains a month, for many years, would be all that could be +expected! By 1874, however, not less than fifty to sixty freight cars +were arriving daily in Los Angeles from Wilmington. + +Once more, in 1866, the Post Office was moved, this time to a building +opposite the Bella Union hotel. There it remained until perhaps 1868, +when it was transferred to the northwest corner of Main and Market +streets. + +In the spring of 1866, the Los Angeles Board of Education was +petitioned to establish a school where Spanish as well as English +should be taught--probably the first step toward the introduction into +public courses here of the now much-studied _castellano_. + +In noting the third schoolhouse, at the corner of San Pedro and +Washington streets, I should not forget to say that Judge Dryden +bought the lot for the City, at a cost of one hundred dollars. When +the fourth school was erected, at the corner of Charity and Eighth +streets, it was built on property secured for three hundred and fifty +dollars by M. Kremer, who served on the School Board for nine years, +from 1866, with Henry D. Barrows and William Workman. There, a few +years ago, a brick building replaced the original wooden structure. +Besides Miss Eliza Madigan, teachers of this period or later were the +Misses Hattie and Frankie Scott, daughters of Judge Scott, the Misses +Maggie Hamilton, Eula P. Bixby, Emma L. Hawkes, Clara M. Jones, H. K. +Saxe and C. H. Kimball; a sister of Governor Downey, soon to become +Mrs. Peter Martin, was also a public school teacher. + +Piped gas as well as water had been quite generally brought into +private use shortly after their introduction, all pipes running along +the surface of walls and ceilings, in neither a very judicious nor +ornamental arrangement. The first gas-fixtures consisted of the +old-fashioned, unornamented drops from the ceiling, connected at right +angles to the cross-pipe, with its two plain burners, one at either +end, forming an inverted T ([Symbol: upside-down T]); and years passed +before artistic bronzes and globes, such as were displayed in +profusion at the Centennial Exposition, were seen to any extent here. + +In September, Leon Loeb arrived in Los Angeles and entered the employ +of S. Lazard & Company, later becoming a partner. When Eugene Meyer +left for San Francisco on the first of January, 1884, resigning his +position as French Consular Agent, Loeb succeeded him, both in that +capacity and as head of the firm. After fifteen years' service, the +French Government conferred upon Mr. Loeb the decoration of an Officer +of the Academy. As Past Master of the Odd Fellows, he became in time +one of the oldest members of Lodge No. 35. On March 23d, 1879, Loeb +married my eldest daughter, Estelle; and on July 22d, 1911, he died. +Joseph P. and Edwin J. Loeb, the attorneys and partners of Irving M. +Walker, (son-in-law of Tomás Lorenzo Duque),[27] are sons of Leon +Loeb. + +In the summer there came to Los Angeles from the Northern part of +California an educator who had already established there and in +Wisconsin an excellent reputation as a teacher. This was George W. +Burton, who was accompanied by his wife, a lady educated in France and +Italy. With them they brought two assistants, a young man and a young +woman, adding another young woman teacher after they arrived. The +company of pedagogues made quite a formidable array; and their number +permitted the division of the school--then on Main near what is now +Second Street--into three departments: one a kind of kindergarten, +another for young girls and a third for boys. The school grew and it +soon became necessary to move the boys' department to the vestry-room +of the little Episcopal Church on the corner of Temple and New High +streets. + +Not only was Burton an accomplished scholar and experienced teacher, +but Mrs. Burton was a linguist of talent and also proficient in both +instrumental and vocal music. Our eldest children attended the Burton +School, as did also those of many friends such as the Kremers, Whites, +Morrises, Griffiths, the Volney Howards, Kewens, Scotts, Nichols, the +Schumachers, Joneses and the Bannings. + +Daniel Bohen, another watchmaker and jeweler, came after Pyle, +establishing himself, on September 11th, on the south side of +Commercial Street. He sold watches, clocks, jewelry and spectacles; +and he used to advertise with the figure of a huge watch. S. +Nordlinger, who arrived here in 1868, bought Bohen out and continued +the jewelry business during forty-two years, until his death in 1911, +when, as a pioneer jeweler, he was succeeded by Louis S. and Melville +Nordlinger, who still use the title of S. Nordlinger & Sons. + +Charles C. Lips, a German, came to Los Angeles from Philadelphia in +1866 and joined the wholesale liquor firm of E. Martin & Company, +later Lips, Craigue & Company, in the Baker Block. As a volunteer +fireman, he was a member of the old Thirty-Eights; a fact adding +interest to the appointment, on February 28th, 1905, of his son, +Walter Lips, as Chief of the Los Angeles Fire Department. + +On October 3d, William Wolfskill died, mourned by many. Though but +sixty-eight years of age, he had witnessed much in the founding of our +great Southwestern commonwealth; and notwithstanding the handicaps to +his early education, and the disappointments of his more eventful +years, he was a man of marked intelligence and remained unembittered +and kindly disposed toward his fellow-men. + +A good example of what an industrious man, following an ordinary +trade, could accomplish in early days was afforded by Andrew Joughin, +a blacksmith, who came here in 1866, a powerful son of the Isle of +Man, measuring over six feet and tipping the beam at more than two +hundred pounds. He had soon saved enough money to buy for five hundred +dollars a large frontage at Second and Hill streets, selling it +shortly after for fifteen hundred. From Los Angeles, Joughin went to +Arizona and then to San Juan Capistrano, but was back here again in +1870, opening another shop. Toward the middle seventies, Joughin was +making rather ingenious plows of iron and steel which attracted +considerable attention. As fast as he accumulated a little money, he +invested it in land, buying in 1874, for six thousand dollars, some +three hundred and sixty acres comprising a part of one of the Ciénega +_ranchos_, to which he moved in 1876. Seven years later, he purchased +three hundred and five acres once called the Tom Gray Ranch, now known +by the more pretentious name of Arlington Heights. In 1888, three +years after he had secured six hundred acres of the Palos Verdes +_rancho_ near Wilmington, the blacksmith retired and made a grand tour +of Europe, revisiting his beloved Isle of Man. + +Pat Goodwin was another blacksmith, who reached Los Angeles in 1866 or +1867, shoeing his way, as it were, south from San Francisco, through +San José, Whisky Flat and other picturesque places, in the service of +A. O. Thorn, one of the stage-line proprietors. He had a shop first on +Spring Street, where later the Empire Stables were opened, and +afterward at the corner of Second and Spring streets, on the site in +time bought by J. E. Hollenbeck. + +Still another smith of this period was Henry King (brother of John +King, formerly of the Bella Union), who in 1879-80 served two terms as +Chief of Police. Later, A. L. Bath was a well-known wheelwright who +located his shop on Spring Street near Third. + +In 1866, quite a calamity befell this pueblo: the abandonment by the +Government of Drum Barracks. As this had been one of the chief sources +of revenue for our small community, the loss was severely felt, and +the immediate effect disastrous. About the same time, too, Samuel B. +Caswell (father of W. M. Caswell, first of the Los Angeles Savings +Bank and now of the Security), who had come to Los Angeles the year +before, took into partnership John F. Ellis, and under the title of +Caswell & Ellis, they started a good-sized grocery and merchandise +business; and between the competition that they brought and the +reduction of the circulating medium, times with H. Newmark & Company +became somewhat less prosperous. Later, John H. Wright was added to +the firm, and it became Caswell, Ellis & Wright. On September 1st, +1871, the firm dissolved. + +FOOTNOTES: + +[26] Fifty years after this unpretentious venture in Arcadia Block, +that is, in the summer of 1915, the half-centenary of M. A. Newmark & +Company and their predecessors was celebrated with a picnic in the +woodlands belonging to Universal City, the holiday and its pleasures +having been provided by the firm as a compliment to its employees. On +that occasion, a loving-cup was presented by the employees to M. A. +Newmark, who responded feelingly to the speech by M. H. Newmark. +Another, but somewhat differently inscribed cup was tendered Harris +Newmark in an address by Herman Flatau, bringing from the venerable +recipient a hearty reply, full of genial reminiscence and natural +emotion, in which he happily likened his commercial enterprise, once +the small store in Los Angeles Street, to a snowball rolling down the +mountain-side, gathering in momentum and size and, fortunately, +preserving its original whiteness. Undoubtedly, this Fifty-Year +Jubilee will take its place among the pleasantest experiences of a +long and varied career.--THE EDITORS. + +[27] Died on April 6th, 1915. + + + + +CHAPTER XXV + +REMOVAL TO NEW YORK, AND RETURN + +1867-1868 + + +The reader may already have noted that more than one important move in +my life has been decided upon with but little previous deliberation. +During August, 1866, while on the way to a family picnic at La +Ballona, my brother suggested the advisability of opening an office +for H. Newmark & Company in New York; and so quickly had I expressed +my willingness to remove there that, when we reached the _rancho_, I +announced to my wife that we would leave for the East as soon as we +could get ready. Circumstances, however, delayed our going a few +months. + +My family at this time consisted of my wife and four children; and +together on January 29th, 1867, we left San Pedro for New York, by way +of San Francisco and Panamá, experiencing frightfully hot weather. +Stopping at Acapulco, during Maximilian's revolution, we were +summarily warned to keep away from the fort on the hill; while at +Panamá yellow fever, spread by travelers recently arrived from South +America, caused the Captain to beat a hasty retreat. Sailing on the +steamer _Henry Chancey_ from Aspinwall, we arrived at New York on the +sixth of March; and having domiciled my family comfortably, my next +care was to establish an office on the third floor at 31 and 33 +Broadway, placing it in charge of M. J. Newmark, who had preceded me +to the metropolis a year before. In a short time, I bought a home on +Forty-ninth Street, between Sixth and Seventh avenues, then an +agreeable residence district. An intense longing to see my old home +next induced me to return to Europe, and I sailed on May 16th for +Havre on the steam-propeller _Union_; the band playing _The Highland +Fling_ as the vessel left the pier. In mid-ocean, the ship's propeller +broke, and she completed the voyage under sail. Three months later, I +returned on the _Russia_. The recollection of this journey gives me +real satisfaction; for had I not taken it then, I should never again +have seen my father. On the twenty-first of the following November, or +a few months after I last bade him good-bye, he died at Loebau, in the +seventy-fifth year of his age. My mother had died in the summer of +1859. + +It was during this visit that, tarrying for a week in the brilliant +French capital, I saw the Paris Exposition, housed to a large extent +in one immense building in the Champ de Mars. I was wonderfully +impressed with both the city and the fair, as well as with the +enterprising and artistic French people who had created it, although I +was somewhat disappointed that, of the fifty thousand or more +exhibitors represented, but seven hundred were Americans. + +One little incident may be worth relating. While I was standing in the +midst of the machinery one day, the _gendarmes_ suddenly began to +force the crowd back, and on retreating with the rest, I saw a group +of ladies and gentlemen approaching. It was soon whispered that they +were the Empress Eugénie and her suite, and that we had been commanded +to retire in order to permit her Majesty to get a better view of a new +railroad coach that she desired to inspect. + +Not long ago I was reading of a trying ordeal in the life of Elihu B. +Washburne, American Minister to France, who, having unluckily removed +his shoe at a Court dinner, was compelled to rise with the company on +the sudden appearance of royalty, and to step back with a stockinged +foot! The incident recalled an experience of my own in London. I had +ordered from a certain shoemaker in Berlin a pair of patent-leather +gaiters which I wore for the first time when I went to Covent Garden +with an old friend and his wife. It was a very warm evening and the +performance had not progressed far before it became evident that the +shoes were too small. I was, in fact, nearly overcome with pain, and +in my desperation removed the gaiters (when the lights were low), +quietly shoved them under the seat and sat out the rest of the +performance with a fair degree of comfort and composure. Imagine my +consternation, however, when I sought to put the shoes on again and +found the operation almost impossible! The curtain fell while I was +explaining and apologizing to my friends; and nearly every light was +extinguished before I was ready to emerge from the famous opera house +and limp to a waiting carriage. + +A trifling event also lingers among the memories of this revisit to my +native place. While journeying towards Loebau in a stage, I happened +to mention that I had married since settling in America; whereupon one +of my fellow-passengers inquired whether my wife was white, brown or +black? + +Major Ben C. Truman was President Johnson's private secretary until he +was appointed, in 1866, special agent for the Post Office department +on the Pacific Coast. He came to Los Angeles in February, 1867, to +look after postal matters in Southern California and Arizona, but more +particularly to reëstablish, between Los Angeles and points in New +Mexico, the old Butterfield Route which had been discontinued on +account of the War. Truman opened post offices at a number of places +in Los Angeles County. On December 8th, 1869, the Major married Miss +Augusta Mallard, daughter of Judge J. S. Mallard. From July, 1873, +until the late summer of 1877, he controlled the Los Angeles _Star_, +contributing to its columns many excellent sketches of early life in +Southern California, some of which were incorporated in one or more +substantial volumes; and of all the pioneer journalists here, it is +probable that none have surpassed this affable gentleman in brilliancy +and genial, kindly touch. Among Truman's books is an illustrated work +entitled _Semi-Tropical California_, dedicated, with a _Dominus +vobiscum_, to Phineas Banning and published in San Francisco, 1874; +while another volume, issued seven years later, is devoted to +_Occidental Sketches_. + +A fire, starting in Bell's Block on Los Angeles Street, on July 13th, +during my absence from the city, destroyed property to the value of +sixty-four thousand dollars; and the same season, S. Lazard & Company +moved their dry goods store from Bell's Row to Wolfskill's building on +Main Street, opposite the Bella Union hotel. + +Germain Pellissier, a Frenchman from the Hautes-Alpes, came to Los +Angeles in August, and for twenty-eight years lived at what is now the +corner of Seventh and Olive streets. Then the land was in the country; +but by 1888, Pellissier had built the block that bears his name. On +settling here, Pellissier went into sheep-raising, scattering stock in +Kern and Ventura counties, and importing sheep from France and +Australia in order to improve his breed; and from one ram alone in a +year, as he demonstrated to some doubting challengers, he clipped +sixty-two and a half pounds of wool. + +P. Beaudry began to invest in hill property in 1867, at once improving +the steep hillside of New High Street, near Sonora Town, which he +bought in, at sheriff's sale, for fifty-five dollars. Afterward, +Beaudry purchased some twenty acres between Second, Fourth, Charity +and Hill streets, for which he paid five hundred and seventeen +dollars; and when he had subdivided this into eighty lots, he cleared +about thirty thousand dollars. Thirty-nine acres, between Fourth and +Sixth, and Pearl and Charity streets, he finally disposed of at a +profit, it is said, of over fifty thousand dollars. + +John G. Downey having subdivided Nieto's _rancho_, Santa Gertrudis, +the little town of Downey, which he named, soon enjoyed such a boom +that sleepy Los Angeles began to sit up and take notice. Among the +early residents was E. M. Sanford, a son-in-law of General John W. +Gordon, of Georgia. A short time before the founding of Downey, a +small place named Galatin had been started near by, but the flood of +1868 caused our otherwise dry rivers to change their courses, and +Galatin was washed away. This subdividing at once stimulated the +coming of land and home-seekers, increased the spirit of enterprise +and brought money into circulation. + +Soon afterward, Phineas Banning renewed the agitation to connect Los +Angeles with Wilmington by rail. He petitioned the County to assist +the enterprise, but the larger taxpayers, backed by the +over-conservative farmers, still opposed the scheme, tooth and nail, +until it finally took all of Banning's influence to carry the project +through to a successful termination. + +George S. Patton, whose father, Colonel Patton of the Confederate +Army, was killed at Winchester, September 19th, 1864, is a nephew of +Andrew Glassell and the oldest of four children who came to Los +Angeles with their mother and her father, Andrew Glassell, Sr., in +1867. Educated in the public schools of Los Angeles, Patton afterward +attended the Virginia Military Institute, where Stonewall Jackson had +been a professor, returning to Los Angeles in September, 1877, when he +entered the law firm of Glassell, Smith & Patton. In 1884, he married +Miss Ruth, youngest daughter of B. D. Wilson, after which he retired +to private life. One of Patton's sisters married Tom Brown; another +sister became the wife of the popular physician, Dr. W. Le Moyne +Wills. In 1871, his mother, relict of Colonel George S. Patton, +married her kinsman, Colonel George H. Smith. + +John Moran, Sr., conducted a vineyard on San Pedro Street near the +present Ninth, in addition to which he initiated the soda-water +business here, selling his product at twenty-five cents a bottle. Soda +water, however, was too "soft" a drink to find much favor and little +was done to establish the trade on a firm basis until 1867, when H. W. +Stoll, a German, drove from Colorado to California and organized the +Los Angeles Soda Water Works. As soon as he began to manufacture the +aerated beverages, Stevens & Wood set up the first soda-water fountain +in Los Angeles, on North Spring Street near the Post Office. After +that, bubbling water and strangely-colored syrups gained in popularity +until, in 1876, quite an expensive fountain was purchased by Preuss & +Pironi's drug store, on Spring Street opposite Court. And what is +more, they brought in hogsheads from Saratoga what would be difficult +to find in all Los Angeles to-day: Congress, Vichy and Kissingen +waters. Stoll, by the way, in 1873, married Fräulein Louisa Behn, +daughter of John Behn. + +An important industry of the late sixties and early seventies was the +harvesting of castor beans, then growing wild along the _zanjas_. They +were shipped to San Francisco for manufacturing purposes, the oil +factories there both supplying the ranchmen with seed and pledging +themselves to take the harvest when gathered. In 1867, a small +castor-oil mill was set up here. + +The _chilicothe_--derived, according to Charles F. Lummis, from the +Aztec, _chilacayote_, the wild cucumber, or _echinocystes fabacea_--is +the name of a plaything supplied by diversified nature, which grew on +large vines, especially along the slope leading down to the river on +what is now Elysian Park, and in the neighborhood of the hills +adjacent to the Mallard and Nichols places. Four or five of these +_chilicothes_, each shaped much like an irregular marble, came in a +small burr or gourd; and to secure them for games, the youngsters +risked limb, if not life, among the trees and rocks. Small circular +holes were sometimes cut into the nuts; and after the meat, which was +not edible, had been extracted, the empty shells were strung together +like beads and presented, as necklaces and bracelets, to sisters and +sweethearts. + +Just about the time when I first gazed upon the scattered houses of +our little pueblo, the Pacific Railway Expedition, sent out from +Washington, prepared and published a tinted lithograph sketch of Los +Angeles, now rather rare. In 1867, Stephen A. Rendall, an Englishman +of Angora goat fame, who had been here, off and on, as a photographer, +devised one of the first large panoramas of Los Angeles, which he sold +by advance subscription. It was made in sections; and as the only view +of that year extant, it also has become notable as an historical +souvenir. + +Surrounded by his somewhat pretentious gallery and his mysterious +darkroom on the top floor of Temple's new block, V. Wolfenstein also +took good, bad and indifferent photographs, having arrived here, +perhaps, in the late sixties, and remaining a decade or more, until +his return to his native Stockholm where I again met him. He operated +with slow wet-plates, and pioneers will remember the inconvenience, +almost tantamount to torture, to which the patron was subjected in +sitting out an exposure. The children of pioneers, too, will recall +his magic, revolving stereoscope, filled with fascinating views at +which one peeped through magnifying glasses. + +Louis Lewin must have arrived here in the late sixties. Subsequently, +he bought out the stationery business of W. J. Brodrick, and P. +Lazarus, upon his arrival from Tucson in 1874, entered into +partnership with him; Samuel Hellman, as was not generally known at +the time, also having an interest in the firm which was styled Louis +Lewin & Company. When the Centennial of the United States was +celebrated here in 1876, a committee wrote a short historical sketch +of Los Angeles; and this was published by Lewin & Company. Now the +firm is known as the Lazarus Stationery Company, P. Lazarus[28] being +President. Lewin and Lazarus married into families of pioneers: Mrs. +Lewin is a daughter of S. Lazard, while Mrs. Lazarus is a daughter of +M. Kremer. Lewin died at Manilla on April 5th, 1905. + +On November 18th, the Common Council contracted with Jean Louis +Sainsevain to lay some five thousand feet of two- and three-inch iron +pipe at a cost of about six thousand dollars in scrip; but the great +flood of that winter caused Sainsevain so many failures and losses +that he transferred his lease, in the spring or summer of 1868, to Dr. +J. S. Griffin, Prudent Beaudry, and Solomon Lazard, who completed +Sainsevain's contract with the City. + +Dr. Griffin and his associates then proposed to lease the water-works +from the City for a term of fifty years, but soon changed this to an +offer to buy. When the matter came up before the Council for adoption, +there was a tie vote, whereupon Murray Morrison, just before resigning +as President of the Council, voted in the affirmative, his last +official act being to sign the franchise. Mayor Aguilar, however, +vetoed the ordinance, and then Dr. Griffin and his colleagues came +forward with a new proposition. This was to lease the works for a +period of thirty years, and to pay fifteen hundred dollars a year in +addition to performing certain things promised in the preceding +proposition. + +At this stage of the negotiations, John Jones made a rival offer, and +P. McFadden, who had been an unsuccessful bidder for the Sainsevain +lease, tried with Juan Bernard to enter into a twenty-year contract. +Notwithstanding these other offers, however, the City authorities +thought it best, on July 22d, 1868, to vote the franchise to Dr. +Griffin, S. Lazard and P. Beaudry, who soon transferred their +thirty-year privileges to a corporation known as the Los Angeles City +Water Company, in which they became trustees. Others associated in +this enterprise were Eugene Meyer, I. W. Hellman, J. G. Downey, A. J. +King, Stephen Hathaway Mott--Tom's brother--W. H. Perry and Charles +Lafoon. A spirited fight followed the granting of the thirty-year +lease, but the water company came out victorious. + +In the late sixties, when the only communities of much consequence in +Los Angeles County were Los Angeles, Anaheim and Wilmington, the +latter place and Anaheim Landing were the shipping ports of Los +Angeles, San Bernardino and Arizona. At that time, or during some of +the especially prosperous days of Anaheim, the slough at Anaheim +Landing (since filled up by flood) was so formed, and of such depth, +that heavily-loaded vessels ran past the warehouse to a considerable +distance inland, and there unloaded their cargoes. At the same time +the leading Coast steamers began to stop there. Not many miles away +was the corn-producing settlement, Gospel Swamp. + +I have pointed out the recurring weakness in the wooden pipes laid by +Sainsevain and Marchessault. This distressing difficulty, causing, as +it did, repeated losses and sharp criticism by the public, has always +been regarded as the motive for ex-Mayor Marchessault's death on +January 20th, when he committed suicide in the old City Council room. + +Jacob Loew arrived in America in 1865 and spent three years in New +York before he came to California in 1868. Clerking for a while in San +Francisco, he went to the Old Town of San Diego, then to Galatin, and +in 1872 settled in Downey; and there, in conjunction with Jacob +Baruch, afterward of Haas, Baruch & Company, he conducted for years +the principal general merchandise business of that section. On coming +to Los Angeles in 1883, he bought, as I have said, the Deming Mill now +known as the Capitol Mills. Two years later, on the second of August, +he was married to my daughter Emily. + +Dr. Joseph Kurtz, once a student at Giessen, arrived in Los Angeles on +February 3d, with a record for hospital service at Baltimore during +the Civil War, having been induced to come here by the druggist, Adolf +Junge, with whom for a while he had some association. Still later he +joined Dr. Rudolph Eichler in conducting a pharmacy. For some time +prior to his graduation in medicine, in 1872, Dr. Kurtz had an office +in the Lanfranco Building. For many years, he was surgeon to the +Southern Pacific Railroad Company and consulting physician to the +Santa Fé Railroad Company, and he also served as President of the Los +Angeles College Clinical Association. I shall have further occasion to +refer to this good friend. Dr. Carl Kurtz is distinguishing himself in +the profession of his father. + +Hale fellow well met and always in favor with a large circle, was my +Teutonic friend, Lewis Ebinger, who, after coming to Los Angeles in +1868, turned clay into bricks. Perhaps this also recalled the days of +his childhood when he made pies of the same material; but be that as +it may, Lewis in the early seventies made his first venture in the +bakery business, opening shop on North Spring Street. In the bustling +Boom days when real estate men saw naught but the sugar-coating, +Ebinger, who had moved to elaborate quarters in a building at the +southwest corner of Spring and Third streets, was dispensing cream +puffs and other baked delicacies to an enthusiastic and unusually +large clientele. But since everybody then had money, or thought that +he had, one such place was not enough to satisfy the ravenous +speculators; with the result that John Koster was soon conducting a +similar establishment on Spring Street near Second, while farther +north, on Spring Street near First, the Vienna Bakery ran both Lewis +and John a merry race. + +Dr. L. W. French, one of the organizers of the Odontological Society +of Southern California, also came to Los Angeles in 1868--so early +that he found but a couple of itinerant dentists, who made their +headquarters here for a part of the year and then hung out their +shingles in other towns or at remote ranches. + +One day in the spring of 1868, while I was residing in New York City, +I received a letter from Phineas Banning, accompanied by a sealed +communication, and reading about as follows: + + DEAR HARRIS: + + Herewith I enclose to you a letter of the greatest + importance, addressed to Miss Mary Hollister (daughter, as + you know, of Colonel John H. Hollister), who will soon be + on her way to New York, and who may be expected to arrive + there by the next steamer. + + This letter I beg you to deliver to Miss Hollister + personally, immediately upon her arrival in New York, + thereby obliging + + Yours obediently, + + (Signed) PHINEAS BANNING. + +The steamer referred to had not yet arrived, and I lost no time in +arranging that I should be informed, by the company's agents, of the +vessel's approach, as soon as it was sighted. This notification came, +by the by, through a telegram received before daylight one bitterly +cold morning, when I was told that the ship would soon be at the dock; +and as quickly as I could, I procured a carriage, hastened to the +wharf and, before any passengers had landed, boarded the vessel. There +I sought out Miss Hollister, a charming lady, and gave her the +mysterious missive. + +I thought no more of this matter until I returned to Los Angeles when, +welcoming me back, Banning told me that the letter I had had the honor +to deliver aboard ship in New York contained nothing less than a +proposal of marriage, his solicitation of Miss Hollister's heart and +hand! + +One reason why the Bella Union played such an important _rôle_ in the +early days of Los Angeles, was because there was no such thing as a +high-class restaurant; indeed, the first recollection I have of +anything like a satisfactory place is that of Louis Vielle, known by +some as French Louis and nicknamed by others Louis _Gordo_, or Louis +the Fat. Vielle came to Los Angeles from Mexico, a fat, jolly little +French caterer, not much over five feet in height and weighing, I +should judge, two hundred and fifty pounds; and this great bulk, +supported as it was by two peg-like legs, rendered his appearance +truly comical. His blue eyes, light hair and very rosy cheeks +accentuated his ludicrous figure. Louis, who must have been about +fifty-four years of age when I first met him, then conducted his +establishment in John Lanfranco's building on Main Street, between +Commercial and Requena; from which fact the place was known as the +Lanfranco, although it subsequently received the more suggestive +title, the What Cheer House. Louis was an acknowledged expert in his +art, but he did not always choose to exert himself. Nevertheless his +lunches, for which he charged fifty or seventy-five cents, according +to the number of dishes served, were well thought of, and it is +certain that Los Angeles had never had so good a restaurant before. At +one time, our caterer's partner was a man named Frederico Guiol, whom +he later bought out. Louis could never master the English language, +and to his last day spoke with a strong French accent. His florid +cheeks were due to the enormous quantity of claret consumed both at +and between meals. He would mix it with soup, dip his bread into it +and otherwise absorb it in large quantities. Indeed, at the time of +his fatal illness, while he was living with the family of Don Louis +Sainsevain, it was assumed that over-indulgence in wine was the cause. +Be that as it may, he sickened and died, passing away at the Lanfranco +home in 1872. Vielle had prospered, but during his sickness he spent +largely of his means. After his death, it was discovered that he had +been in the habit of hiding his coin in little niches in the wall of +his room and in other secret places; and only a small amount of the +money was found. A few of the real pioneers recollect Louis _Gordo_ +as one who added somewhat to the comfort of those who then patronized +restaurants; while others will associate him with the introduction +here of the first French dolls, to take the place of rag-babies. + +Both Judge Robert Maclay Widney and Dr. Joseph P. Widney, the surgeon, +took up their residence in Los Angeles in 1868. R. M. Widney set out +from Ohio about 1855 and, having spent two years in exploring the +Rockies, worked for a while in the Sacramento Valley, where he chopped +wood for a living, and finally reached Los Angeles with a small trunk +and about a hundred dollars in cash. Here he opened a law and +real-estate office and started printing the _Real Estate Advertiser_. +Dr. Widney crossed the Continent in 1862, spent two years as surgeon +in the United States Army in Arizona, after which he proceeded to Los +Angeles and soon became one of the charter members of the Los Angeles +Medical Society, exerting himself in particular to extend Southern +California's climatic fame. + +I have spoken of the ice procured from the San Bernardino mountains in +rather early days, but I have not said that in summer, when we most +needed the cooling commodity, there was none to be had. The +enterprising firm of Queen & Gard, the first to arrange for regular +shipments of Truckee River ice in large quantities by steamer from the +North, announced their purpose late in March, 1868, of building an ice +house on Main Street; and about the first of April they began +delivering daily, in a large and substantial wagon especially +constructed for that purpose and which, for the time being, was an +object of much curiosity. Liberal support was given the enterprise; +and perhaps it is no wonder that the perspiring editor of the _News_, +going into ecstasies because of a cooling sample or two deposited in +his office, said, in the next issue of his paper: + + The founding of an ice depot is another step forward in the + progress that is to make us a great City. We have Water and + Gas, and now we are to have the additional luxury of Ice! + + [Illustration: Dr. Truman H. Rose] + + [Illustration: Dr. Vincent Gelcich] + + [Illustration: Andrew Glassell] + + [Illustration: Charles E. Miles, in Uniform of 38's] + + [Illustration: Facsimile of Stock Certificate, Pioneer Oil Co.] + + [Illustration: American Bakery, Jake Kuhrts's Building, about 1880] + +Banning's fight for the Los Angeles & San Pedro Railroad has been +touched upon more than once. Tomlinson, his rival, opposed the +project; but his sudden death, about two weeks before the election in +1868, removed one of the serious obstacles. When the vote was taken, +on March 24th, as to whether the City and County should bond +themselves to encourage the building of the railroad, seven hundred +votes were cast in favor of, and six hundred and seventy-two votes +against, the undertaking, leaving Banning and his associates ready to +go ahead. By the way, as a reminder of the quondam vogue of Spanish +here, it may be noted that the proclamation regarding the railroad, +published in 1868, was printed in both English and Spanish. + +On May 16th, Henry Hamilton, whose newspaper, the _Star_, during part +of the War period had been suspended through the censorship of the +National Government, again made his bow to the Los Angeles public, +this time in a half-facetious leader in which he referred to the "late +unpleasantness" in the family circle. Hamilton's old-time vigor was +immediately recognized, but not his former disposition to attack and +criticize. + +Dr. H. S. Orme, once President of the State Board of Health of +California, arrived in Los Angeles on July 4th and soon became as +prominent in Masonic as in medical circles. Dr. Harmon, an early +successor to Drs. Griffin and Den, first settled here in 1868, +although he had previously visited California in 1853. + +Carl Felix Heinzeman, at one time a well-known chemist and druggist, +emigrated from Germany in 1868 and came direct to Los Angeles, where +after succeeding J. B. Saunders & Company, he continued, in the +Lanfranco Building, what grew to be the largest drug store south of +San Francisco. Heinzeman died on April 29th, 1903. About the same +period, a popular apothecary shop on Main Street, near the Plaza, was +known as Chevalier's. In the seventies, when hygiene and sanitation +were given more attention, a Welshman named Hughes conducted a +steam-bath establishment on Main Street, almost opposite the Baker +Block, and the first place of its kind in the city. + +Charles F. Harper[29] of Mississippi, and the father of ex-Mayor +Harper, in 1868 opened with R. H. Dalton a hardware store in the Allen +Block, corner of Spring and Temple streets, thus forerunning Coulter & +Harper, Harper & Moore, Harper, Reynolds & Company and the +Harper-Reynolds Company. + +Michel Lèvy, an Alsatian, arrived in San Francisco when but seventeen +years of age, and after various experiences in California and Nevada +towns, he came to Los Angeles in 1868, soon establishing, with Joe +Coblentz, the wholesale liquor house of Lèvy & Coblentz. The latter +left here in 1879, and Lèvy continued under the firm name of M. Lèvy & +Company until his death in 1905. + +Anastácio Cárdenas, a dwarf who weighed but one and a half pounds when +born, came to Los Angeles in 1867 and soon appeared before the public +as a singer and dancer. He carried a sword and was popularly dubbed +"General." A brother, Ruperto, long lived here. + +When the Canal & Reservoir Company was organized with George Hansen as +President and J. J. Warner as Secretary, P. Beaudry contributed +heavily to construct a twenty-foot dam across the _cañon_, below the +present site of Echo Park, and a ditch leading down to Pearl Street. +This first turned attention to the possibilities in the hill-lands to +the West; and in return, the City gave to the company a large amount +of land, popularly designated as canal and reservoir property. + +In 1868, when there was still not a three-story house in Los Angeles, +James Alvinza Hayward, a San Franciscan, joined John G. Downey in +providing one hundred thousand dollars with which to open, in the old +Downey Block on the site of the Temple adobe, the first bank in Los +Angeles, under the firm name of Hayward & Company. The lack of +business afforded this enterprise short shrift and they soon retired. +In July of the same year, I. W. Hellman, William Workman, F. P. F. +Temple and James R. Toberman started a bank, with a capital of one +hundred and twenty-five thousand dollars, under the title of Hellman, +Temple & Company, Hellman becoming manager. + +I do not remember when postal lock-boxes were first brought into use, +but I do recollect that in the late sixties Postmaster Clarke had a +great deal of trouble collecting quarterly rents, and that he finally +gave notice that boxes held by delinquents would thereafter be nailed +up. + +A year or two after the Burtons had established themselves here, came +another pedagogue in the person of W. B. Lawlor, a thick-set, bearded +man with a flushed complexion, who opened a day-school called the +Lawlor Institute; and after the Burtons left here to settle at +Portland, Oregon, where Burton became headmaster of an academy for +advanced students, many of his former pupils attended Lawlor's school. +The two institutions proved quite different in type: the Burton +training had tended strongly to languages and literature, while +Lawlor, who was an adept at short-cut methods of calculation, placed +more stress on arithmetic and commercial education. Burton, who +returned to Los Angeles, has been for years a leading member of the +_Times_ editorial staff, and _Burton's Book on California and its +Sunlit Skies_ is one of this author's contributions to Pacific Coast +literature; his wife, however, died many years ago. Lawlor, who was +President of the Common Council in 1880, is also dead. + +The most popular piano-teacher of about that time was Professor Van +Gilpin. + +William Pridham came to Los Angeles in August, having been transferred +from the San Francisco office of Wells Fargo & Company, in whose +service as pony rider, clerk at Austin, Nevada, and at Sacramento, and +cashier in the Northern metropolis he had been for some ten years. +Here he succeeded Major J. R. Toberman, when the latter, after long +service, resigned; and with a single office-boy, at one time little +Joe Binford, he handled all the business committed to the company's +charge. John Osborn was the outside expressman. Then most of the heavy +express matter from San Francisco was carried by steamers, but letters +and limited packages of moment were sent by stage. With the advent of +railroads, Pridham was appointed by Wells Fargo & Company +Superintendent of the Los Angeles district. On June 12th, 1880, he +married Miss Mary Esther, daughter of Colonel John O. Wheeler, and +later moved to Alameda. Now, after fifty-one years of association +with the express business, Pridham still continues to be officially +connected with the Wells Fargo company. + +Speaking of that great organization, reminds me that it conducted for +years a mail-carrying business. Three-cent stamped envelopes, +imprinted with Wells Fargo & Company's name, were sold to their +patrons for ten cents each; and to compensate for this bonus, the +Company delivered the letters entrusted to them perhaps one to two +hours sooner than did the Government. + +This recalls to me a familiar experience on the arrival of the mail +from the North. Before the inauguration of a stage-line, the best time +in the transmission of mail matter between San Francisco and Los +Angeles was made by water, and Wells Fargo messengers sailed with the +steamers. Immediately upon the arrival of the boat at San Pedro, the +messenger boarded the stage, and as soon as he reached Los Angeles, +pressed on to the office of the Company, near the Bella Union, where +he delivered his bagful of letters. The steamer generally got in by +five o'clock in the morning; and many a time, about seven, have I +climbed Signal or Pound Cake Hill--higher in those days than now, and +affording in clear weather a view of both ocean and the smoke of the +steamer--upon whose summit stood a house, used as a signal station, +and there watched for the rival stages, the approach of which was +indicated by clouds of dust. I would then hurry with many others to +the Express Company's office where, as soon as the bag was emptied, we +would all help ourselves unceremoniously to the mail. + +In August, General Edward Bouton, a Northern Army officer, came to Los +Angeles and soon had a sheep ranch on Boyle Heights--a section then +containing but two houses; and two years later he camped where +Whittier now lies. In 1874, he bought land for pasture in the San +Jacinto Valley, and for years owned the ocean front at Alamitos Bay +from Devil's Gate to the Inlet, boring artesian wells there north of +Long Beach. + +Louis Robidoux, who had continued to prosper as a _ranchero_, died in +1868 at the age of seventy-seven years. + +With the usual flourish of spades, if not of trumpets, ground was +broken for the Los Angeles & San Pedro Railroad at Wilmington on +September 19th, and toward the end of November, the rails had been +laid about a mile out from Wilmington. + +The last contract for carrying the Overland Mail was given to Wells +Fargo & Company on October 1st and pledged a round remuneration of one +million, seven hundred and fifty thousand dollars per annum, while it +also permitted passengers and freight to be transported; but the +Company came to have a great deal of competition. Phineas Banning, for +example, had a stage-line between Los Angeles and Yuma, in addition to +which mail and passengers were carried in buckboards, large wagons and +jerkies. Moreover there was another stage-line between Tucson and El +Paso, and rival stage-lines between El Paso and St. Louis; and in +consequence, the Butterfield service was finally abandoned. + +This American vehicle, by the by, the jerky, was so named for the very +good reason that, as the wagon was built without springs, it _jerked_ +the rider around unmercifully. Boards were laid across the wagon-box +or bed for seats, accommodating four passengers; and some space was +provided in the back for baggage. To maintain one's position in the +bumping, squeaking vehicle at all, was difficult; while to keep one's +place on the seat approached the impossible. + +Of the various Los Angeles roadways in 1868, West Sixth Street was +most important in its relation to travel. Along this highway the daily +Overland stages entered and departed from the city; and by this route +came all the Havilah, Lone Pine, Soledad and Owens River trade, as +well as that of the Ballona and Ciénega districts. Sixth Street also +led to the Fair Grounds, and over its none too even surface dashed +most of the sports and gallants on their way to the race course. + +I have said that I returned to New York, in 1867, presumably for +permanent residence. Soon after I left Los Angeles, however, Samuel +Cohn became desperately ill, and the sole management of H. Newmark & +Company suddenly devolved on Sam's brother Kaspare. This condition of +affairs grew so bad that my return to Los Angeles became imperative. +Accordingly, leaving my family, I took passage on October 31st, 1868, +for San Francisco, and returned to Los Angeles without delay. Then I +wired my wife to start with the children for the Coast, and to have +the furniture, including a Chickering grand piano, just purchased, +shipped after them; and when they arrived, we once more took +possession of the good old adobe on Main Street, where we lived +contentedly until 1874. This piano, by the way, which came by freight +around Cape Horn, was one of the first instruments of the kind seen +here, John Schumacher having previously bought one. While we were +living in New York, Edward J. Newmark, my wife's brother, died here on +February 17th, 1868. + +Before I left for New York, hardly anything had been done, in +subdividing property, save perhaps by the Lugos and Downey, and at +Anaheim and Wilmington. During the time that I was away, however, +newspapers and letters from home indicated the changes going on here; +and I recall what an impression all this made upon me. On my way down +from San Francisco on Captain Johnson's _Orizaba_ in December--about +the same time that the now familiar locomotive _San Gabriel_ reached +Wilmington--land-agents were active and people were talking a great +deal about these subdivisions; and by the time I reached Los Angeles +I, too, was considerably stirred up over the innovations and as soon +as possible after my return hastened out to see the change. The +improvements were quite noticeable, and among other alterations +surprising me were the houses people had begun to build on the +approaches to the western hills. I was also to learn that there was a +general demand for property all over the city, Colonel Charles H. +Larrabee, City Attorney in 1868, especially having bought several +hundred feet on Spring and Fort streets. Later, I heard of the +experiences of other Angeleños aboard ship who were deluged with +circulars advertising prospective towns. + +To show the provincial character of Los Angeles fifty years ago, I +will add an anecdote or two. While I was in New York, members of my +family reported by letter, as a matter of extraordinary interest, the +novelty of a silver name-plate on a neighboring front door; and when I +was taken to inspect it, a year later, I saw the legend, still novel: + + Mr. and Mrs. Eugene Meyer + +In the metropolis I had found finger-bowls in common use, and having +brought back with me such a supply as my family would be likely to +need, I discovered that it had actually fallen to my lot to introduce +these desirable conveniences into Los Angeles. + +William Ferguson was an arrival of 1868, having come to settle up the +business of a brother and remaining to open a livery stable on North +Main Street near the Plaza, which he conducted for ten years. +Investing in water company stock, Ferguson abandoned his stable to +make water-pipes, a couple of years later, perhaps, than J. F. +Holbrook had entered the same field. Success enabled Ferguson to build +a home at 303 South Hill Street, where he found himself the only +resident south of Third. + +This manufacture here of water pipe recalls a cordial acquaintance +with William Lacy, Sr., an Englishman, who was interested with William +Rowland in developing the Puente oil fields. His sons, William, Jr., +and Richard H., originators of the Lacy Manufacturing Company, began +making pipe and tanks a quarter of a century ago. + +C. R. Rinaldi started a furniture business here in 1868, opening his +store almost opposite the Stearns's home on North Main Street. Before +long he disposed of an interest to Charles Dotter, and then, I think, +sold out to I. W. Lord and moved to the neighborhood of the San +Fernando Mission. About the same time, Sidney Lacey, who arrived in +1870 and was a popular clerk with the pioneer carpet and wall-paper +house of Smith & Walter, commenced what was to be a long association +with this establishment. In 1876, C. H. Bradley bought out Lord, and +the firm of Dotter & Bradley, so well known to householders of forty +years ago, came into existence. In 1884, H. H. Markham (soon to be +Congressman and then Governor of the State), with General E. P. +Johnson bought this concern and organized the Los Angeles Furniture +Company, whose affairs since 1910, (when her husband died), have been +conducted by the President, Mrs. Katherine Fredericks. + +Conrad Hafen, a German-Swiss, reached Los Angeles in December, 1868, +driving a six-horse team and battered wagon with which he had braved +the privations of Death Valley; and soon he rented a little vineyard, +two years later buying for the same purpose considerable acreage on +what is now Central Avenue. Rewarded for his husbandry with some +affluence, Hafen built both the old Hafen House and the new on South +Hill Street, once a favorite resort for German arrivals. He retired in +1905. + +FOOTNOTES: + +[28] Died on September 30th, 1914. + +[29] Died on September 13th, 1915. + + + + +CHAPTER XXVI + +THE CERRO GORDO MINES + +1869 + + +It was early in 1869 that I was walking down Spring Street one day and +saw a crowd at the City Hall. On a large box stood Mayor Joel H. +Turner, and just as I arrived a man leaning against the adobe wall +called out, "Seven dollars!" The Mayor then announced the bid--for an +auction was in progress--"Seven dollars once, seven dollars twice, +seven dollars three times!" and as he raised his hand to conclude the +sale, I called out, "A half!" This I did in a spirit of fun; in fact, +I did not even know what was being offered! "Seven dollars fifty once, +seven dollars fifty twice, seven dollars fifty three times, and +sold--to Harris Newmark!" called the Mayor. I then inquired what I had +bought, and was shown the location of about twenty acres, a part of +nine hundred being sold by the City at prices ranging from five to ten +dollars an acre. + +The piece purchased was west of the city limits, and I kept it until +1886 when I had almost forgotten that I was the owner. Then George +Williamson, one of the first salesmen of H. Newmark & Company, who +became a boomer of the period, bought it from me for ten thousand +dollars and resold it within two weeks for fourteen thousand, the +Sunset Oil Company starting there, as the land was within what was +known as the oil district. Since the opening of streets in all +directions, I have lost trace of this land, but incline to the belief +that it lies in the immediate vicinity of the Wilshire district. + +My experience reminds me of Colonel John O. Wheeler's investment in +fifty or sixty acres at what is now Figueroa and Adams streets. Later, +going to San Francisco as a Customs officer, he forgot about his +purchase until one day he received a somewhat surprising offer. + +On January 1st, A. J. King and R. H. Offutt began to publish a daily +edition of the _News_, hitherto a semi-weekly, making it strongly +Democratic. There was no Sunday issue and twelve dollars was the +subscription. On October 16th, Offutt sold his interest to Alonzo +Waite, and the firm became King & Waite. In another year King had +retired. + +How modest was the status of the Post Office in 1869 may be gathered +from the fact that the Postmaster had only one assistant, a boy, both +together receiving fourteen hundred dollars in greenbacks, worth but a +thousand dollars in gold. + +Henry Hammel, for years connected with the Bella Union, and a partner +named Bremerman leased the United States Hotel on February 1st from +Louis Mesmer; and in March, John King succeeded Winston & King as +manager of the Bella Union. King died in December, 1871. + +In the winter of 1868-69, when heavy rains seriously interfered with +bringing in the small supply of lumber at San Pedro, a coöperative +society was proposed, to insure the importation each summer of enough +supplies to tide the community over during the wintry weather. Over +one hundred persons, it was then estimated, had abandoned building, +and many others were waiting for material to complete fences and +repairs. + +Thanks to Contractor H. B. Tichenor's vigor in constructing the Los +Angeles & San Pedro Railroad, public interest in the venture, by the +beginning of 1869, had materially increased. In January, a vessel +arrived with a locomotive and a steam pile-driver; and a few days +later a schooner sailed into San Pedro with ties, sleepers and rails +enough for three miles of the track. Soon, also, the locomotive was +running part of the way. The wet winter made muddy roads, and this led +to the proposal to lay the tracks some eight or ten miles in the +direction of Los Angeles, and there to transfer the freight to +wagons. + +Stearns Hall and the Plaza were amusement places in 1869. At the +latter, in January, the so-called _Paris Exposition Circus_ held +forth; while Joe Murphy and Maggie Moore, who had just favored the +passengers on the _Orizaba_, on coming south from San Francisco, with +a show, trod the hall's more classic boards. + +Ice a quarter of an inch thick was formed here for several days during +the third week in January, and butchers found it so difficult to +secure fat cattle that good beef advanced to sixteen and a quarter +cents a pound. + +On January 20th, I purchased from Eugene Meyer the southern half of +lots three and four in block five, fronting on Fort Street between +Second and Third, formerly owned by William Buffum and J. F. Burns. +Meyer had paid one thousand dollars for one hundred and twenty feet +front and three hundred and thirty feet depth; and when I bought half +of this piece for one thousand dollars, it was generally admitted that +I had paid all that it was worth. + +Isaac Lankershim--father of J. B. Lankershim and Mrs. I. N. Van +Nuys--who first visited California in 1854, came from San Francisco in +1869 and bought, for one hundred and fifteen thousand dollars, part of +Andrés Pico's San Fernando _rancho_, which he stocked with sheep. Levi +Strauss & Company, Scholle Brothers, L. and M. Sachs & Company of San +Francisco and others, were interested in this partnership, then known +as the San Fernando Farm Association; but Lankershim was in control +until about one year later, when Isaac Newton Van Nuys arrived from +Monticello, where he had been merchandising, and was put permanently +in charge of the ranch. At this period Lankershim lived there, for he +had not yet undertaken milling in Los Angeles. A little later, +Lankershim and Van Nuys successfully engaged in the raising of wheat, +cultivating nearly sixty thousand acres, and consigning some of their +harvests to Liverpool. This fact recalls a heavy loss in the spring of +1881, when the _Parisian_, which left Wilmington under Captain Reaume, +foundered at sea with nearly two hundred and fifty tons of wheat and +about seventy-five tons of flour belonging to them. + +J. B. Lankershim, owner of the well-known hotel bearing his name, +after the death of his father made some very important investments in +Los Angeles real estate, including the northwest corner of Broadway +and Seventh Street, now occupied by the building devoted to Bullock's +department store. + +M. N. Newmark, a nephew of mine and President of the Newmark Grain +Company, arrived in 1869, and clerked for H. Newmark & Company until +1871, in which year he established a partnership with S. Grand in +Compton, selling general merchandise. This partnership lasted until +1878, when Newmark bought out Grand. He finally disposed of the +business in 1889 and, with D. K. Edwards, organized the firm of +Newmark & Edwards. In 1895 Edwards sold out his interest. + +Victor Ponet, a native of Belgium, and once Belgian Consul here, while +traveling around the world, landed in California in 1867 and two years +later came to Los Angeles. Attracted by the climate and Southern +California's possible future, Ponet settled here, engaging first in +the pioneer manufacture and importation of mirrors and picture frames; +and before his retirement to live in Sherman, he had had experience +both as undertaker and banker.[30] + +In 1869, General W. S. Rosecrans came south in the interest of the +proposed San Diego & Gila Railroad, never constructed. The General, as +a result, took up land around Sausal Redondo, and there by the summer +of 1869 so many people (who insisted that Rosecrans had appropriated +public land) had squatted, that he was put to no end of trouble in +ejecting them. + +Though I have witnessed most of the progress in Southern California, +it is still difficult to realize that so much could have been +accomplished within the life-time of one man. During 1868-69 only +twenty-two hundred boxes of oranges were shipped from Los Angeles, +while the Southern counties' crop of oranges and lemons for 1913-14 is +estimated, I am told, at about twelve million boxes! + +Due to the eight-day shindy marking the celebration of the Chinese New +Year, demand for a more concentrated rumpus was voiced in February, +1869, threatening an agitation against John Chinaman. + +The same month, residents, wishing a school in which German should be +taught, and a gymnasium, petitioned the Common Council to acquire a +lot in New High Street for the purpose. + +About 1869, the Los Angeles Social Club which, to the best of my +recollection, was the first of its kind in the city, was organized, +with headquarters in the earliest building erected by I. W. Hellman, +at the northwest corner of Los Angeles and Commercial streets. Among +other pioneer members were Captain Cameron E. Thom, Tom Mott, Eugene +Meyer, Sam and Charles Prager, Tom Rowan, I. W. and H. W. Hellman, S. +Lazard, W. J. Brodrick, John Jones, Kaspare Cohn, A. C. Chauvin, M. +and J. L. Morris, Leon Loeb, Sam Meyer, Dr. F. A. McDougal, B. Cohn +and myself. Somewhat later, the Club moved to the east side of Los +Angeles Street, between Commercial and Aliso. Still later, it +dissolved; and although it did not become the direct ancestor of any +of the several well-known social organizations in the Los Angeles of +to-day, I feel that it should be mentioned as having had the honor of +being their precursor and model. + +Speaking of social organizations, I may say that several Los Angeles +clubs were organized in the early era of sympathy, tolerance and good +feeling, when the individual was appreciated at his true worth and +before the advent of men whose bigotry has sown intolerance and +discord, and has made a mockery of both religion and professed ideals. + +It must have been early in the sixties that Alexander Bell sold the +southern end of his property to H. Heinsch, the saddler. On February +23d, 1869, the directors of the San Pedro Railroad selected the Mike +Madigan lot on Alameda Street, on a part of which the owner was +conducting a livery-stable, as the site for the depot in Los Angeles; +and Heinsch having allowed the authorities to cut through his +property, the extension of Commercial and Requena streets eastward +from Los Angeles to Alameda was hastened. + +Late on February 14th, the news was circulated of a shocking tragedy +in the billiard saloon of the Lafayette Hotel, and at once aroused +intense regret, affecting, as the affair did, the standing and +happiness of two well-known Los Angeles families. About eight o'clock, +Charles Howard, a young lawyer of prominence and a son of Volney E. +Howard, met Daniel B. Nichols, son of the ex-Mayor; and some dispute +between them having reached its climax, both parties drew weapons and +fired. Howard was killed and Nichols wounded, though not fatally, as +was at first thought. The tragedy--the cause of which was never +generally known--made a profound impression. + +The work of extending water mains along Fort, Spring and other streets +progressed steadily until the Los Angeles Water Company struck a snag +which again demonstrated the city's dependence. Difficulty in coupling +pipes called a halt, and the management had to send all the way to San +Francisco for _a complete set of plumbers' tools_! + +In the spring, Tileston, Emery & Company, a Los Angeles and San +Gabriel firm, brought south the first steam separator seen here and +took contracts to thrash the farmers' grain. On June 3d they started +the machine, and many persons went out to see it work. Among features +pointed out were precautions against fire from the engine, which the +contractors declared made "everything perfectly safe." + +From its inception, Wilmington sought, in one way or another, to rival +Los Angeles, and in April threw down the gauntlet. A. A. Polhamus, a +workshop engineer of the Los Angeles & San Pedro Railroad, (in 1887, a +manufacturer of straw wrapping paper somewhere between here and +Wilmington,) had built a velocipede; and no sooner was it noised about +than John Goller set to work to eclipse the achievement. About one +o'clock, therefore, on April 25th one of Goller's apprentices suddenly +appeared ready to make the first experiment. The streets were soon +crowded and interest was at fever heat. The young fellow straddled the +wheels, moved about half a block, and then, at the junction of Main +and Spring streets, executed a first-class somersault! Immediately, +however, other intrepid ones tried their skill, and the velocipede +was voted a successful institution of our young and progressive city. + + [Illustration: Loebau Market Place, near the House in which Harris + Newmark was Born] + + [Illustration: Street in Loebau, Showing (right) Remnant of ancient + City Wall] + + [Illustration: Robert M. Widney] + + [Illustration: Dr. Joseph Kurtz] + + [Illustration: Isaac N. Van Nuys] + + [Illustration: Abraham Haas] + +By the first week in May, the velocipede craze had spread, crowds +congregating daily on Main Street to see the antics of the boys; and +soon H. F. Laurence announced the opening in Stearns's Hall, on May +14th, of a Velocipede School, where free instruction would be given: +afternoons to _ladies_ and evenings to men; and to further stimulate +interest, Laurence announced a raffle on May 15th of "a splendid +velocipede." By May 22d, J. Eastman had obtained permission of the +Common Council to build a velocipede track on the historic old Plaza; +but evidently he did not make use of the privilege, for a newspaper +writer was soon giving vent to the following sarcasm: + + Our City Fathers tried to make a little coin by leasing the + Plaza as a velocipede circle or square; but, so far, the + velocipedist has failed to connect. I dare say the cost of + cleaning up the place of weeds backed the poor soul out! + +It happened in 1869 that Judson, the financier, and Belshaw, a +practical miner, began working their lead mines in Cerro Gordo, in the +Owens River country; and as the handling of the ore necessitated a +great many wagons, Remi Nadeau obtained the contract for the +transportation of the ore brought down to Wilmington and then shipped +by boat to San Francisco. Remi had returned here about 1866, after +having been in San Francisco for four or five years; and eventually he +built the Nadeau Hotel at the corner of Spring and First streets, +where A. Bouelle, father of Frank A. Bouelle, had formerly kept a +little grocery store in an adobe. This ore was loaded on to very large +wagons, each drawn on level stretches by twelve or fourteen mules, but +requiring as many as twenty or more mules while crossing the San +Fernando Mountains--always regarded as one of the worst places on the +route. In order not to return with empty wagons, Nadeau purchased +supplies of every description, which he sold to people along the +route; and in this way he obtained the best financial results. This +was about the same time that Victor Beaudry (Prudent's brother, who +came in 1855, to mine at San Gabriel) opened a store at Camp +Independence, Inyo County, and became a stockholder in the Cerro Gordo +mines. In the early eighties, Beaudry was interested with his brother +in local real estate movements. He died in Montreal in 1888. + +After a time, the mines yielded so much ore that Nadeau found himself +short of transportation facilities; but with the assistance of Judson +& Belshaw, as well as H. Newmark & Company, he was enabled to increase +his capacity until he operated thirty-two teams. Los Angeles was then +the southern terminus of his operations, although, during the building +of the numerous Southern Pacific tunnels, his headquarters were +removed to San Fernando, and still later, on the completion of the +railroad, to Mojave. Nadeau's assistant, Willard G. Halstead, +son-in-law of H. K. W. Bent, handled most of the business when Nadeau +was absent; A. E. Lott was foreman of teams and continually rode up +and down the line of operations; while Thomas O'Brien was +station-agent at Cerro Gordo. The contract had been very profitable to +Judson & Belshaw; yet when the agreement expired on January 1st, 1872, +they wished to renew it at a lower figure. Nadeau, believing that no +one else could do the work satisfactorily, refused the new terms +offered; whereupon Judson & Belshaw entered into an arrangement with +William Osborn, a liveryman, who owned a few teams. + +The season of 1871-72 was by no means a good one and barley was high, +involving a great expense to Nadeau in feeding four or five hundred +animals; and right there arose his chief difficulty. He was in debt to +H. Newmark & Company and therefore proposed that he should turn his +outfit over to us; but as we had unlimited confidence both in his +integrity and in his ability, we prevailed on him to keep and use his +equipment to the best advantage. The suggestion was a fortunate one, +for just at this time large deposits of borax were discovered in the +mountains at Wordsworth, Nevada, and Nadeau commenced operations +there with every promise of success. In his work of hauling between +Cerro Gordo and Los Angeles, Nadeau had always been very regular, his +teams with rare exceptions arriving and leaving on schedule time; and +even when, occasionally, a wagon did break down, the pig-lead would be +unloaded without delay, tossed to the side of the trail and left there +for the next train; a method that was perfectly safe, since thieves +never disturbed the property. Osborn, on the other hand, soon proved +uncertain and unreliable, his wagons frequently breaking down and +causing other accidents and delays. To protect themselves, Judson & +Belshaw were compelled to terminate their contract with him and reopen +negotiations with Nadeau; but the latter then rejected their advances +unless they would buy a half-interest in his undertaking and put up +one hundred and fifty thousand dollars for the construction and +maintenance of the numerous stations that had become necessary for the +proper development of his business. Nadeau also made it a condition +that H. Newmark & Company be paid. The stations already constructed or +proposed were Mud Springs, Lang's Station, Mojave, Red Rock, Panamint, +Indian Wells, Little Lake, Haiwee Meadows and Cartago. Before these +were built, the teamsters camped in the open, carrying with them the +provisions necessary for man and beast. Cartago was on the south side +of Owens Lake, Cerro Gordo being on the north side, eighteen miles +opposite; and between these points the miniature side-wheeler +_Bessie_, of but twenty tons capacity, operated. + +An interesting fact or two in connection with Owens Lake may be +recorded here. Its water was so impregnated with borax and soda that +no animal life could be sustained. In the winter, the myriads of wild +duck were worth talking about; but after they had remained near the +lake for but a few days, they were absolutely unpalatable. The +teamsters and miners operating in the vicinity were in the habit of +sousing their clothes in the lake for a few minutes, and when dried, +the garments were found to be as clean as if they had passed through +the most perfect laundry. Even a handful of the water applied to the +hair would produce a magnificent lather and shampoo. + +Judson & Belshaw were compelled to accept Nadeau's terms; and Nadeau +returned from Nevada, organized in 1873 the Cerro Gordo Freighting +Company, and operated more extensively than ever before until he +withdrew, perhaps five years after the completion of the Southern +Pacific Railroad and just before the petering out of the Cerro Gordo +Mines. In their palmy days, these deposits were the most extensive +lead-producers of California; and while the output might not have been +so remarkable in comparison with those of other lead mines in the +world, something like eighty-five to ninety bars, each weighing about +one hundred pounds, were produced there daily. Most of this was +shipped, as I have said, to San Francisco; and for a while, at least, +from there to Swansea, Wales. + +Nadeau at one time was engaged in the industry of raising sugar-beets +at the Nadeau _rancho_, near Florence, now Nadeau Station; and then he +attempted to refine sugar. But it was bad at best, and the more sugar +one put in coffee, the blacker the coffee became. + +On April 24th, 1869, under Mayor Joel Turner's administration, the Los +Angeles Board of Education came into existence. + +In the early sixties, the City authorities promised to set out trees +at the Plaza, providing neighboring property-owners would fence in the +place; but even though Governor Downey supplied the fence, no trees +were planted, and it was not until the spring of 1869 that any grew on +the public square. This loud demand for trees was less for the sake of +the usual benefits than to hide the ugliness of the old water tank. + +On May 9th, F. G. Walther issued the first number of the _Los Angeles +Chronik_, a German weekly journal that survived scarcely three months. + +The tenth of May was another red-letter day for the Pacific Coast, +rejoicing, as it did, in the completion of the Central Pacific at +Promontory Point in Utah. There, with a silver hammer, Governor +Stanford drove the historic gold spike into a tie of polished +California laurel, thus consummating the vast work on the first +trans-continental railroad. This event recalls the fact that, in the +railway's construction, Chinese labor was extensively employed, and +that in 1869 large numbers of the dead bodies of Celestials were +gathered up and shipped to Sacramento for burial. + +William J. Brodrick, after wandering in Peru and Chile, came to Los +Angeles in 1869 and started as a stationer; then he opened an +insurance office, and still later became interested in the Main Street +Railway and the water company. On May 8th, 1877, Brodrick married Miss +Laura E., daughter of Robert S. Carlisle. On October 18th, 1898, +Brodrick died, having been identified with many important activities. + +Hacks and omnibuses first came into use in 1869. Toward the end of May +of that year, J. J. Reynolds, who had long been popular as a driver +between Los Angeles and Wilmington, purchased a hack and started in +business for himself, appealing to his "reputation for good driving +and reliability" as a reasonable assurance that he would bring his +patrons right side up to their scattered homes; and so much was he in +demand, both in the city and its suburbs, that a competitor, J. +Hewitt, in the latter part of June ordered a similar hack to come by +steamer. It arrived in due time and was chronicled as a "luxurious +vehicle." Hewitt regularly took up his stand in the morning in front +of the Lafayette Hotel; and he also had an order slate at George +Butler's livery-stable on Main Street. + +During the sixties, Dr. T. H. Rose, who had relinquished the practice +of medicine for the career of a pedagogue, commenced work as Principal +of the Boys' Grammar School on Bath Street, and in 1869 was elected +Superintendent of City Schools. He held this office but about a year, +although he did not resign from educational work here until 1873. +During his incumbency, he was Vice-Principal of the first Teachers' +Institute ever held here, contributing largely toward the founding of +the first high school and the general development of the schools prior +to the time when Dr. Lucky, the first really professional teacher, +assumed charge. On leaving Los Angeles, Dr. Rose became Principal of +the school at Healdsburg, Sonoma County, where he married a Mrs. +Jewell, the widow of an old-time, wealthy miner; but he was too +sensitive and proud to live on her income and, much against her +wishes, insisted on teaching to support himself. In 1874, he took +charge of the high school at Petaluma, where the family of Mrs. Rose's +first husband had lived; and the relationship of the two families +probably led to Rose and his wife separating. Later, Dr. Rose went to +the Sandwich Islands to teach, but by 1883, shortly before he died, he +was back in Los Angeles, broken in health and spirit. Dr. Rose was an +excellent teacher, a strict disciplinarian and a gentleman. + +The retirement of Dr. Rose calls to mind a couple of years during +which Los Angeles had no City School Superintendent. While Rose was +Principal, a woman was in charge of the girls' department; and the +relations between the schoolmaster and the schoolmistress were none +too friendly. When Dr. Rose became Superintendent, the schoolma'am +instantly disapproved of the choice and rebelled; and there being no +law which authorized the governing of Los Angeles schools in any other +manner than by trustees, the new Superintendent had no authority over +his female colleague. The office of Superintendent of City Schools, +consequently, remained vacant until 1873. + +Dr. James S. Crawford had the honor, as far as I am aware, of being +one of the first regular dentists to locate in Los Angeles. As an +itinerant he had passed the winters of 1863, 1864 and 1865 in this +city, afterward going east; and on his return to California in 1869 he +settled in the Downey Block at Spring and Main streets, where he +practiced until, on April 14th, 1912, he died in a Ventura County +camp. + +In 1864, the California Legislature, wishing to encourage the silk +industry, offered a bounty of two hundred and fifty dollars for every +plantation of five thousand mulberry trees of two years' growth, and a +bounty of three hundred dollars for each one hundred thousand salable +cocoons; and in three years an enormous number of mulberry trees, in +various stages of growth, was registered. Prominent among silk-growers +was Louis Prévost, who rather early had established here an extensive +mulberry-tree nursery and near it a large cocoonery for the rearing +of silk worms; and had planned, in 1869, the creation of a colony of +silk-worms whose products would rival even those of his native _belle +France_. The California Silk Center Association of Los Angeles was +soon formed, and four thousand acres of the _rancho_ once belonging to +Juan Bandini, fourteen hundred and sixty acres of the Hartshorn Tract +and three thousand one hundred and sixty-nine acres of the Jurupa, on +the east side of the Santa Ana River, were purchased. That was in June +or July; but on August 16th, in the midst of a dry season, Louis +Prévost died, and the movement received a serious setback. To add to +the reverses, the demand for silk-worm eggs fell off amazingly; while +finally, to give the enterprise its death-blow, the Legislators, +fearful that the State Treasury would be depleted through the payment +of bounties, withdrew all State aid. + +The Silk Center Association, therefore, failed; but the Southern +California Colony Association bought all the land, paying for it +something like three dollars and a half an acre. To many persons, the +price was quite enough: old Louis Robidoux had long refused to list +his portion for taxes, and some one had described much of the acreage +as so dry that even coyotes, in crossing, took along their canteens +for safety! A town called at first Jurupa, and later Riverside, was +laid out; a fifty thousand-dollar ditch diverted the Santa Ana River +to a place where Nature had failed to arrange for its flowing; and in +a few months a number of families had settled beside the artificial +waterway. Riversiders long had to travel back and forth to Los Angeles +for most of their supplies (a stage, still in existence, being used by +ordinary passengers), and this made a friendly as well as profitable +business relation with the older and larger town; but experiments soon +showing that oranges could grow in the arid soil, Riverside in course +of time had something to sell as well as to buy. + +Who was more familiar both to the youth of the town and to grown-ups +than Nicolás Martinez, in summer the purveyor of cooling ice cream, in +winter the vender of hot _tamales_! From morning till night, month in +and month out during the sixties and seventies, Martinez paced the +streets, his dark skin made still swarthier in contrast to his white +costume--a shirt, scarcely tidy, together with pantaloons none too +symmetrical and hanging down in generous folds at the waist. On his +head, in true native fashion, he balanced in a small hooped tub what +he had for sale; he spoke with a pronounced Latin accent, and his +favorite method of announcing his presence was to bawl out his wares. +The same receptacle, resting upon a round board with an opening to +ease the load and covered with a bunch of cloths, served both to keep +the _tamales_ hot and the ice cream cool; while to dispense the +latter, he carried in one hand a circular iron tray, in which were +holes to accommodate three or four glasses. Further, for the +convenience of the exacting youth of the town, he added a spoon to +each cream-filled glass; and what stray speck of the ice was left on +the spoon after the youngster had given it a parting lick, Nicolás, +bawling anew to attract the next customer, fastidiously removed with +his tobacco-stained fingers! + +FOOTNOTE: + +[30] Died, February 9th, 1914. + + + + +CHAPTER XXVII + +COMING OF THE IRON HORSE + +1869 + + +The Los Angeles & San Pedro Railroad continued in 1869 to be the local +theme of most importance, although its construction did not go on as +rapidly as had been promised. The site for a depot, it is true, had +been selected; but by June 14th, only six miles were finished. Farmers +were loud in complaints that they had been heavily taxed, and in +demanding that the road be rushed to completion, in order to handle +the prospectively-large grain crop. Additional gangs were therefore +employed, and by the twentieth of July, seven more miles of track had +been laid. In the meantime, the Sunday School at Compton enjoyed the +first excursion, the members making themselves comfortable on benches +and straw in some freight cars. + +As the work on the railroad progressed, stages, in addition to those +regularly running through from Los Angeles to Wilmington, began +connecting with the trains at the temporary terminus of the railroad. +People went down to Wilmington to see the operations, not merely on +the track, but in the machine shops where the cars for freight, +express, baggage, smoking and passenger service (designed by A. A. +Polhamus, the machinist) were being built under the superintendence of +Samuel Atkinson, who had been brought West by the San Francisco & San +José Valley Railroad, because of a reputation for railroad experience +enjoyed by few, if by any other persons on the Coast. The Company also +had a planing mill and wheelwright shop under the charge of George W. +Oden. + +By the first of August, both the railroad and connecting stages were +advertising Sunday excursions to the beach, emphasizing the chance to +travel part of the way by the new means of transit. Curiously, +however, visitors were allowed to enjoy the sea-breezes but a short +time: arriving at Wilmington about ten or half-past, they were +compelled to start back for Los Angeles by four in the afternoon. Many +resorters still patronized the old service; and frequently the regular +stages, racing all the way up from the steamer, would actually reach +the city half an hour earlier than those transferring the passengers +from the railway terminus which was extended by August 1st to a point +within four miles of town. + +When eighteen miles had been finished, it was reported that General +Stoneman and his post band would make an excursion on the first train, +accompanied by General Banning and leading citizens of the town; but +strong opposition to the Company laying its tracks through the center +of "The Lane," now Alameda Street, having developed, the work was +stopped by injunction. The road had been constructed to a point +opposite the old Wolfskill home, then "far from town," and until the +matter was settled, passengers and freight were unloaded there. + +Great excitement prevailed here shortly after sundown on Wednesday +evening, August 21st, when the mail-stage which had left for Gilroy +but a short time before came tearing back to town, the seven or eight +passengers excitedly shouting that they had been robbed. The stage had +proceeded but two miles from Los Angeles when four masked highwaymen +stepped into the road and ordered, "Hands up!" Among the passengers +was the well-known and popular Ben Truman who, having learned by +previous experience just what to do in such a ticklish emergency and +"being persuaded that the two barrels of cold steel had somewhat the +proportions of a railway tunnel," sadly but promptly unrolled one +hundred and eighty dollars in bills, and quite as sadly deposited, in +addition, his favorite chronometer. The highwayman picked up the +watch, looked it over, shook his head and, thanking Ben, returned it, +expressing the hope that, whatever adversity might overwhelm him, he +should never be discovered with such a timepiece! All in all, the +robbers secured nearly two thousand dollars; but, strange to relate, +they overlooked the treasure in the Wells Fargo chest, as well as +several hundred dollars in greenbacks belonging to the Government. +Sheriff J. F. Burns and Deputy H. C. Wiley pursued and captured the +robbers; and within about a week they were sent to the Penitentiary. + +On the same evening, at high tide, the little steamer christened _Los +Angeles_ and constructed by P. Banning & Company to run from the wharf +to the outside anchorage, was committed to the waters, bon-fires +illuminating quite distinctly both guests and the neighboring +landscape, and lending to the scene a weird and charming effect. + +In a previous chapter I have given an account of Lady Franklin's visit +to San Pedro and Los Angeles, and of the attention shown her. Her +presence awakened new interest in the search for her lamented husband, +and paved the way for the sympathetic reception of any intelligence +likely to clear up the mystery. No little excitement, therefore, was +occasioned eight years later by the finding of a document at San +Buenaventura that seemed "like a voice from the dead." According to +the story told, as James Daly (of the lumber firm of Daly & Rodgers) +was walking on the beach on August 30th, he found a sheet of paper a +foot square, much mutilated but bearing, in five or six different +languages, a still legible request to forward the memoranda to the +nearest British Consul or the Admiralty at London. Every square inch +of the paper was covered with data relating to Sir John Franklin and +his party, concluding with the definite statement that Franklin had +died on June 11th, 1847. Having been found within a week of the time +that the remnant of Dr. Hall's party, which went in search of the +explorer, had arrived home in Connecticut with the announcement that +they had discovered seven skeletons of Franklin's men, this document, +washed up on the Pacific Coast, excited much comment; but I am unable +to say whether it was ever accepted by competent judges as having been +written by Franklin's associates. + +In 1869, the long-familiar adobe of José António Carrillo was razed to +make way for what, for many years, was the leading hotel of Los +Angeles. This was the Pico House, in its decline known as the National +Hotel, which, when erected on Main Street opposite the Plaza at a cost +of nearly fifty thousand dollars, but emphasized in its contrasting +showiness the ugliness of the neglected square. Some thirty-five +thousand dollars were spent in furnishing the eighty-odd rooms, and no +little splurge was made that guests could there enjoy the luxuries of +both gas and baths! In its palmy days, the Pico House welcomed from +time to time travelers of wide distinction; while many a pioneer, +among them not a few newly-wedded couples now permanently identified +with Los Angeles or the Southland, look back to the hostelry as the +one surviving building fondly associated with the olden days. Charles +Knowlton was an early manager; and he was succeeded by Dunham & +Schieffelin. + +Competition in the blacking of boots enlivened the fall, the Hotel +Lafayette putting boldly in printer's ink the question, "Do You Want +to Have Your Boots Blacked in a Cool, Private Place?" This challenge +was answered with the following proclamation: + + Champion Boot-Black! Boots Blacked Neater and Cheaper than + Anywhere Else in the City, at the _Blue Wing_ Shaving + Saloon by D. Jefferson. + +Brickmaking had become, by September, quite an important industry. Joe +Mullally, whose brickyard was near the Jewish Cemetery, then had two +kilns with a capacity of two hundred and twenty-five thousand; and in +the following month he made over five hundred thousand brick. + +In course of time, the Los Angeles & San Pedro Railroad was completed +to the Madigan lot, which remained for several years the Los Angeles +terminus; and justly confident that the difficulty with the +authorities would be removed, the Company pushed work on their depot +and put in a turn-table at the foot of New Commercial Street. There +was but one diminutive locomotive, though a larger one was on its way +around the Horn from the East and still another was coming by the +Continental Railway; and every few days the little engine would go out +of commission, so that traffic was constantly interrupted. At such +times, confidence in the enterprise was somewhat shaken; but new +rolling stock served to reassure the public. A brightly-painted +smoking-car, with seats mounted on springs, was soon the "talk of the +town." + +I have spoken of J. J. Reynolds's early enterprise and the competition +that he evoked. Toward the end of July, he went up to San Francisco +and outdid Hewitt by purchasing a handsome omnibus, suitable for hotel +service and also adapted to the needs of families or individuals +clubbing together for picnics and excursions. This gave the first +impetus to the use of hotel 'buses, and by the first Sunday in +September, when the cars from Wilmington rolled in bringing passengers +from the steamer _Orizaba_, the travelers were met by omnibuses and +coaches from all three hotels, the Bella Union, the United States and +the Lafayette; the number of vehicles, public and private, giving the +streets around the railroad depot a very lively appearance. + +Judge W. G. Dryden, so long a unique figure here, died on September +10th and A. J. King succeeded him as County Judge. + +A notable visit to Los Angeles was that of Secretary William H. Seward +who, in 1869, made a trip across the Continent, going as far north as +Alaska and as far south as Mexico, and being everywhere +enthusiastically received. When Seward left San Francisco for San +Diego, about the middle of September, he was accompanied by Frederick +Seward and wife (his son and daughter-in-law), General W. S. +Rosecrans, General Morton C. Hunter, Colonel Thomas Sedgwick and +Senator S. B. Axtell; and the news of their departure having been +telegraphed ahead, many people went down to greet them on the arrival +of the steamer _Orizaba_. After the little steamer _Los Angeles_ had +been made fast to the wharf, it was announced, to everyone's +disappointment, that the Secretary was not coming ashore, as he wished +to continue on his way to San Diego. + +Meanwhile, the Common Council had resolved to extend the hospitality +of the City to the distinguished party; and by September 19th, posters +proclaimed that Seward and his party were coming and that citizens +generally would be afforded an opportunity to participate in a public +reception at the Bella Union on September 21st. A day in advance, +therefore, the Mayor and a Committee from the Council set out for +Anaheim, where they met the distinguished statesman on his way, whence +the party jogged along leisurely in a carriage and four until they +arrived at the bank of the Los Angeles River; and there Seward and his +friends were met by other officials and a cavalcade of eighty citizens +led by the military band of Drum Barracks. The guests alighted at the +Bella Union and in a few minutes a rapidly-increasing crowd was +calling loudly for Mr. Seward. + +The Secretary, being welcomed on the balcony by Mayor Joel H. Turner, +said that he had been laboring under mistakes all his life: he had +visited Rome to witness celebrated ruins, but he found more +interesting ruins in the Spanish Missions (great cheers); he had +journeyed to Switzerland to view its glaciers, but upon the Pacific +Coast he had seen rivers of ice two hundred and fifty feet in breadth, +five miles long and God knows how high (more cheers); he had explored +Labrador to examine the fisheries, but in Alaska he found that the +fisheries came to him (Hear! hear! and renewed applause); he had gone +to Burgundy to view the most celebrated vineyards of the world, but +the vineyards of California far surpassed them all! (Vociferous and +deafening hurrahs, and tossing of bouquets.) + +The next day the Washington guests and their friends were shown about +the neighborhood, and that evening Mr. Seward made another and equally +happy speech to the audience drawn to the Bella Union by the playing +of the band. There were also addresses by the Mayor, Senator Axtell, +ex-Governor Downey and others, after which, in good old American +fashion, citizens generally were introduced to the associate of the +martyred Lincoln. At nine o'clock, a number of invited guests were +ushered into the Bella Union's dining-room where, at a bounteous +repast, the company drank to the health of the Secretary. This brought +from the visitor an eloquent response with interesting local +allusions. + +Secretary Seward remarked that he found people here agitated upon the +question of internal improvements--for everywhere people wanted +railroads. Californians, if they were patient, would yet witness a +railroad through the North, another by the Southern route, still +another by the Thirty-fifth parallel, a fourth by the central route, +and lastly, as the old plantation song goes, one "down the middle!" +California needed more population, and railroads were the means by +which to get people. + +Finally, Mr. Seward spoke of the future prospects of the United +States, saying much of peculiar interest in the light of later +developments. We were already great, he affirmed; but a nation +satisfied with its greatness is a nation without a future. We should +expand, and as mightily as we could; until at length we had both the +right and the power to move our armies anywhere in North America. As +to the island lying almost within a stone's throw of our mainland, +ought we not to possess Cuba, too? + +Other toasts, such as "The Mayor and Common Council," "The Pioneers," +"The Ancient Hospitality of California," "The Press," "The Wine Press" +and "Our Wives and Sweethearts," were proposed and responded to, much +good feeling prevailing notwithstanding the variance in political +sentiments represented by guests and hosts; and everyone went home, in +the small hours of the morning, pleased with the manner in which Los +Angeles had received her illustrious visitors. The next day, Secretary +Seward and party left for the North by carriages, rolling away toward +Santa Barbara and the mountains so soon to be invaded by the puffing, +screeching iron horse. + +Recollecting this banquet to Secretary Seward, I may add an amusing +fact of a personal nature. Eugene Meyer and I arranged to go to the +dinner together, agreeing that we were to meet at the store of S. +Lazard & Company, almost directly opposite the Bella Union. When I +left Los Angeles in 1867, evening dress was uncommon; but in New York +I had become accustomed to its more frequent use. Rather naturally, +therefore, I donned my swallowtail; Meyer, however, I found in a +business suit and surprised at my query as to whether he intended +going home to dress? Just as we were, we walked across the street and, +entering the hotel, whom should we meet but ex-Mayor John G. Nichols, +wearing a grayish linen duster, popular in those days, that extended +to his very ankles; while Pio and Andrés Pico came attired in blue +coats with big brass buttons. Meyer, observing the Mayor's outfit, +facetiously asked me if I still wished him to go home and dress +according to Los Angeles fashion; whereupon I drew off my gloves, +buttoned up my overcoat and determined to sit out the banquet with my +claw-hammer thus concealed. Mr. Seward, it is needless to say, was +faultlessly attired. + +The Spanish archives were long neglected, until M. Kremer was +authorized to overhaul and arrange the documents; and even then it was +not until September 16th that the Council built a vault for the +preservation of the official papers. Two years later, Kremer +discovered an original proclamation of peace between the United States +and Mexico. + +Elsewhere I allude to the slow development of Fort Street. For the +first time, on the twenty-fourth of September street lamps burned +there, and that was from six to nine months after darkness had been +partially banished from Nigger Alley, Los Angeles, Aliso and Alameda +streets. + + [Illustration: Phineas Banning, about 1869] + + [Illustration: Henri Penelon, in his Studio] + + [Illustration: Carreta, Earliest Mode of Transportation] + + [Illustration: Alameda Street Depot and Train, Los Angeles & San + Pedro Railroad] + +Supplementing what I have said of the Los Angeles & San Pedro Railroad +depot: it was built on a lot fronting three hundred feet on Alameda +Street and having a depth of one hundred and twenty feet, its +situation being such that, after the extension of Commercial Street, +the structure occupied the southwest corner of the two highways. +Really, it was more of a freight-shed than anything else, without +adequate passenger facilities; a small space at the North end +contained a second story in which some of the clerks slept; and in a +cramped little cage beneath, tickets were sold. By the way, the +engineer of the first train to run through to this depot was James +Holmes, although B. W. Colling ran the first train stopping inside the +city limits. + +About this time the real estate excitement had become still more +intense. In anticipation of the erection of this depot, Commercial +Street property boomed and the first realty agents of whom I have any +recollection appeared on the scene, Judge R. M. Widney being among +them. I remember that two lots--one eighty by one hundred and twenty +feet in size at the northwest corner of First and Spring streets, and +the other having a frontage of only twenty feet on New Commercial +Street, adjacent to the station--were offered simultaneously at twelve +hundred dollars each. Contrary, no doubt, to what he would do to-day, +the purchaser chose the Commercial Street lot, believing that location +to have the better future. + +Telegraph rates were not very favorable, in 1869, to frequent or +verbose communication. Ten words sent from Los Angeles to San +Francisco cost one dollar and a half; and fifty cents additional was +asked for the next five words. After a while, there was a reduction of +twenty-five per cent, in the cost of the first ten words, and fifty +per cent, on the second five. + +Twenty-four hundred voters registered in Los Angeles this year. + +In the fall, William H. Spurgeon founded Santa Ana some five miles +beyond Anaheim on a tract of about fifty acres, where a number of the +first settlers experimented in growing flax. + +It is not clear to me just when the rocky Arroyo Seco began to be +popular as a resort, but I remember going there on picnics as early as +1857. By the late sixties, when Santa Monica Cañon also appealed to +the lovers of sylvan life, the Arroyo had become known as Sycamore +Grove--a name doubtless suggested by the numerous sycamores there--and +Clois F. Henrickson had opened an establishment including a little +"hotel," a dancing-pavilion, a saloon and a shooting-alley. Free lunch +and free beer were provided for the first day, and each Sunday +thereafter in the summer season an omnibus ran every two hours from +Los Angeles to the Sycamores. After some years, John Rumph and wife +succeeded to the management, Frau Rumph being a popular _Wirtin_; and +then the Los Angeles Turnverein used the grove for its public +performances, including gymnastics, singing and the old-time +sack-racing and target-shooting. + +James Miller Guinn, who had come to California in November, 1863 and +had spent several years in various counties of the State digging for +gold and teaching school, drifted down to Los Angeles in October and +was soon engaged as Principal of the public school at the new town of +Anaheim, remaining there in that capacity for twelve years, during +part of which time he also did good work on the County School Board. + +Under the auspices of the French Benevolent Society and toward the end +of October, the corner-stone of the French Hospital built on City +donation lots, and for many years and even now one of the most +efficient institutions of our city, was laid with the usual +ceremonies. + +On October 9th, the first of the new locomotives arrived at Wilmington +and a week later made the first trial trip, with a baggage and +passenger car. Just before departure a painter was employed to label +the engine and decorate it with a few scrolls; when it was discovered, +too late, that the artist had spelled the name: LOS ANGEL_O_S. On +October 23d, two lodges of Odd Fellows used the railway to visit Bohen +Lodge at Wilmington, returning on the first train, up to that time, +run into Los Angeles at midnight. + +October 26th was a memorable day, for on that date the Los Angeles & +San Pedro Railroad Company opened the line to the public and invited +everybody to enjoy a free excursion to the harbor. Two trains were +dispatched each way, the second consisting of ten cars; and not less +than fifteen hundred persons made the round trip. Unfortunately, it +was very warm and dusty, but such discomforts were soon forgotten in +the novelty of the experience. On the last trip back came the +musicians; and the new Los Angeles depot having been cleared, cleaned +up and decorated for a dedicatory ball, there was a stampede to the +little structure, filling it in a jiffy. + +Judge H. K. S. O'Melveny, who first crossed the Plains from Illinois +on horseback in 1849, came to Los Angeles with his family in November, +having already served four years as a Circuit Judge, following his +practice of law in Sacramento. He was a brother-in-law of L. J. Rose, +having married, in 1850, Miss Annie Wilhelmina Rose. Upon his arrival, +he purchased the southwest corner of Second and Fort streets, a lot +one hundred and twenty by one hundred and sixty-five feet in size, and +there he subsequently constructed one of the fine houses of the +period; which was bought, some years later, by Jotham Bixby for about +forty-five hundred dollars, after it had passed through various hands. +Bixby lived in it for a number of years and then resold it. In 1872, +O'Melveny was elected Judge of Los Angeles County; and in 1887, he was +appointed Superior Judge. H. W. O'Melveny, his second son, came from +the East with his parents, graduating in time from the Los Angeles +High School and the State University. Now he is a distinguished +attorney and occupies a leading position as a public-spirited citizen, +and a patron of the arts and sciences. + +In his very readable work, _From East Prussia to the Golden Gate_, +Frank Lecouvreur credits me with having served the commonwealth as +Supervisor. This is a slight mistake: I was an unwilling candidate, +but never assumed the responsibilities of office. In 1869, various +friends waited upon me and requested me to stand as their candidate +for the supervisorship; to which I answered that I would be glad to +serve my district, but that I would not lift a finger toward securing +my election. H. Ábila was chosen with six hundred and thirty-one +votes, E. M. Sanford being a close second with six hundred and +sixteen; while five hundred and thirty-seven votes were cast in my +favor. + +Trains on the new railway began to run regularly on November 1st; and +there still exists one of the first time-tables, bearing at the head, +"Los Angeles & San Pedro Railroad" and a little picture of a +locomotive and train. At first, the train scheduled for two stated +round trips a day (except on steamer days, when the time was +conditioned by the arrival and departure of vessels) left Wilmington +at eight o'clock in the morning and at one o'clock in the afternoon, +returning at ten in the morning and four in the afternoon. The fare +between Los Angeles and Wilmington was one dollar and fifty cents, +with an additional charge of one dollar to the Anchorage; while on +freight from the Anchorage to Los Angeles, the tariff was: dry goods, +sixteen dollars per ton; groceries and other merchandise, five +dollars; and lumber, seven dollars per thousand feet. + +After the formal opening of the railroad, a permanent staff of +officers, crew and mechanicians was organized. The first +Superintendent was H. W. Hawthorne, who was succeeded by E. E. Hewitt, +editor of the _Wilmington Journal_. N. A. McDonald, was the first +conductor; Sam Butler was the first and, for a while, the only +brakeman, and the engineers were James McBride and Bill Thomas. The +first local agent was John Milner; the first agent at Wilmington, John +McCrea. The former was succeeded by John E. Jackson, who from 1880 to +1882 served the community as City Surveyor. Worthy of remark, perhaps, +as a coincidence, is the fact that both Milner and McCrea ultimately +became connected in important capacities with the Farmers & Merchants +Bank. + +The first advertised public excursion on the Los Angeles & San Pedro +Railroad after its opening was a trip to Wilmington and around San +Pedro Harbor, arranged for November 5th, 1869. The cars, drawn by the +locomotive _Los Angeles_ and connecting with the little steamer of the +same name, left at ten and returned at three o'clock in the afternoon. +Two dollars was the round-trip fare, while another dollar was exacted +from those who went out upon the harbor. + +In the late seventies, a Portuguese named Fayal settled near what is +now the corner of Sixth and Front streets, San Pedro; and one Lindskow +took up his abode in another shack a block away. Around these rude +huts sprang up the neighborhoods of Fayal and Lindville, since +absorbed by San Pedro. + +Probably the first attempt to organize a fire company for Los Angeles +was made in 1869, when a meeting was called on Saturday evening, +November 6th, at Buffum's Saloon, to consider the matter. A temporary +organization was formed, with Henry Wartenberg as President; W. A. +Mix, Vice-President; George M. Fall, Secretary; and John H. Gregory, +Treasurer. An initiation fee of two dollars and a half, and monthly +dues of twenty-five cents, were decided upon; and J. F. Burns, B. +Katz, Emil Harris, George Pridham, E. B. Frink, C. D. Hathaway, P. +Thompson, O. W. Potter, C. M. Small and E. C. Phelps were charter +members. A committee appointed to canvass for subscriptions made +little progress, and the partial destruction of Rowan's American +Bakery, in December, demonstrating the need of an engine and hose +cart, brought out sharp criticism of Los Angeles's penuriousness. + +About the middle of November, Daniel Desmond, who had come on October +14th of the preceding year, opened a hat store on Los Angeles Street +near New Commercial, widely advertising the enterprise as a pioneer +one and declaring, perhaps unconscious of any pun, that he proposed to +fill a want that had "long been felt." The steamer _Orizaba_, which +was to bring down Desmond's goods, as ill luck would have it left half +of his stock lying on the San Francisco pier; and the opening, so much +heralded, had to be deferred several weeks. As late as 1876, he was +still the only exclusive hatter here. Desmond died on January 23d, +1903, aged seventy years, and was succeeded by his son, C. C. Desmond. +Another son, D. J. Desmond, is the well-known contractor. + +Toward the close of November, Joseph Joly, a Frenchman, opened the +Chartres Coffee Factory on Main Street opposite the Plaza, and was the +pioneer in that line. He delivered to both stores and families, and +for a while seemed phenomenally successful; but one fine morning in +December it was discovered that the "Jolly Joseph" had absconded, +leaving behind numerous unpaid bills. + +The first marble-cutter to open a workshop in Los Angeles was named +Miller. He came toward the end of 1869 and established himself in the +Downey Block. Prior to Miller's coming, all marble work was brought +from San Francisco or some source still farther away, and the delay +and expense debarred many from using that stone even for the pious +purpose of identifying graves. + +With the growth of Anaheim as the business center of the country +between the new San Gabriel and the Santa Ana rivers, sentiment had +been spreading in favor of the division of Los Angeles County; and at +the opening of the Legislature of 1869-70, Anaheim had its official +representative in Sacramento, ready to present the claims of the +little German settlement and its thriving neighbors. The person +selected for this important embassy was Major Max von Stroble; and he +inaugurated his campaign with such sagacity and energy that the bill +passed the Assembly and everything pointed to an early realization of +the scheme. It was not, however, until Los Angeles awoke to the fact +that the proposed segregation meant a decided loss, that opposition +developed in the Senate and the whole matter was held up. + +Stroble thereupon sent posthaste to his supporters for more cash, and +efforts were made to get the stubborn Senate to reconsider. Doubtless +somebody else had a longer purse than Stroble; for in the end he was +defeated, and the German's dream did not come true until long after he +had migrated to the realms that know no subdivisions. One of the +arguments used in favor of the separation was that it took two days's +time, and cost six dollars, for the round trip to the Los Angeles +Courthouse; while another contention then regarded as of great +importance was that the one coil of hose pipe owned by the County was +kept at Los Angeles! Stroble, by-the-way, desired to call the new +county Anaheim. + +Major von Stroble was a very interesting character. He was a German +who had stood shoulder to shoulder with Carl Schurz and Franz Sigel in +the German Revolution of 1848, and who, after having taken part in the +adventures of Walker's filibustering expedition to Nicaragua, finally +landed in Anaheim, where he turned his attention to the making of +wine. He soon tired of that, and in 1867 was found boring for oil on +the Brea Ranch, again meeting with reverses where others later were so +successful. He then started the movement to divide Los Angeles County +and once more failed in what was afterward accomplished. Journalism in +Anaheim next absorbed him and, having had the best of educational +advantages, Stroble brought to his newspaper both culture and the +experience of travel. + +The last grand effort of this adventurous spirit was the attempt to +sell Santa Catalina Island. Backed by the owners, Stroble sailed for +Europe and opened headquarters near Threadneedle Street in London. In +a few weeks he had almost effected the sale, the contract having been +drawn and the time actually set for the following day when the +money--a cool two hundred thousand pounds--was to be paid; but no +Stroble kept tryst to carry out his part of the transaction. Only the +evening before, alone and unattended, the old man had died in his room +at the very moment when Fortune, for the first time, was to smile upon +him! Eighteen or twenty years later, Catalina was sold for much less +than the price once agreed upon. + + + + +CHAPTER XXVIII + +THE LAST OF THE VIGILANTES + +1870 + + +As I have somewhere related, I began buying hides as far back as 1855, +but it was not until 1870 that this branch of our business assumed +such importance as to require more convenient quarters. Then we bought +a place on the southeast corner of Alameda and Commercial streets, +facing sixty feet on Alameda and having a depth of one hundred and +sixty-five feet, where we constructed a hide-house and erected a press +for baling. We paid P. Beaudry eleven hundred dollars for the lot. The +relatively high price shows what the Los Angeles & San Pedro Railroad +depot had done for that section. In the days when hides were sent by +sailing-vessels to the East, a different method of preparing them for +shipment was in vogue. The wet hides having been stretched, small +stakes were driven into the ground along the edge of, and through the +skins, thus holding them in place until they had dried and expanding +them by about one-third; in this condition they were forwarded loose. +Now that transportation is more rapid and there are tanneries in +California, all hides are handled wet. + +In 1870, business life was centered on Los Angeles Street between +Commercial and Arcadia; and all the hotels were north of First Street. +Fort Street ended in a little bluff at a spot now between Franklin and +First streets. Spring Street was beginning to take on new life, and +yet there was but one gas lamp along the entire roadway, though many +were the appeals to add another lamp, "say, as far as First Street!" + +Sometime in January, a number of ladies of this city met and, through +the exertions of Mrs. Rosa Newmark, wife of Joseph Newmark, formed the +Ladies' Hebrew Benevolent Society. Mrs. Newmark, as was once pointed +out in a notable open-air meeting of women's clubs (to which I +elsewhere refer), never accepted any office in the Society; but for +years she was untiring in her efforts in the cause of charity. The +first officers were: President, Mrs. W. Kalisher; Vice-President, Mrs. +Harris Newmark; Treasurer, Mrs. John Jones; Secretary, Mrs. B. Katz; +and Collector, Mrs. A. Baer. Three Counselors--Henry Wartenberg, I. M. +Hellman and myself--occasionally met with the ladies to advise them. + +Aside from the fact of its importance as the pioneer ladies' +benevolent organization instituted in Los Angeles, the Society found a +much-needed work to do. It was then almost impossible to obtain +nurses, and the duty devolved on members to act in that capacity, +where such assistance was required, whether the afflicted were rich or +poor. It was also their function to prepare the dead for interment, +and to keep proper vigil over the remains until the time of burial. + +During the year 1869 or 1870, as the result of occasional gatherings +in the office of Dr. Joseph Kurtz, the Los Angeles Turnverein was +organized with eleven members--Emil Harris leading in the movement, +assisted by Dr. Kurtz, Ed. Preuss, Lorenzo Leck, Philip and Henry +Stoll, Jake Kuhrts, Fred Morsch, C. C. Lips and Isaac Cohn. Dr. Kurtz +was elected President. They fraternized for a while at Frau Wiebecke's +Garden, on the west side of Alameda near First Street, about where the +Union Hardware and Metal Company now stands; and there, while beer and +wine were served in the open air, the Teutons gratified their love of +music and song. Needing for their gymnastics more enclosed quarters, +the Turnverein rented of Kalisher & Wartenberg the barn on Alameda +Street between Ducommon and First, used as a hide-house; and in that +rough-boarded shack, whose none too aromatic odors are still a +souvenir to many a pioneer resident, the _Turners_ swung and vaulted +to their heart's content. Classes were soon arranged for boys; and the +envy of all was the lad who, after numerous risks to limb and neck, +proudly topped the human pyramid. Another garden of this period often +patronized by the Turnverein was Kiln Messer's, on First Street +between Alameda and the river. + +The Post Office was moved this year from the corner of North Main and +Market streets to the middle of Temple Block, but even there the +facilities were so inadequate that Wells Fargo & Company, in June, put +up a letter-box at the corner of Main and Commercial streets which was +emptied but once a day, at four o'clock in the afternoon, save on +steamer days when letters were taken out at half-past nine. One other +box was at the sole railroad depot, then at the corner of Alameda and +Commercial streets. The Post Office at that time was also so miserably +illuminated that citizens fumbled about to find their letter-boxes, +and ladies were timid about entering the building at night. +Postmasters were allowed small reserves; and for some time in 1870 the +Los Angeles Post Office was entirely out of one- and two-cent stamps. + +In February, the way was prepared for the first city directory when +the houses of Los Angeles were ordered to be numbered, a public +discussion of the need for a directory having taken place the previous +December. When the collaborators began to collect names and other +data, there were many refusals to answer questions; but the little +volume of seventy pages was finally published in 1871. + +Until 1870 Los Angeles had no bookbinder, all binding having had to be +sent to San Francisco; and a call was then sent out to induce a +journeyman to settle here. + +On the fourteenth of February, Phineas Banning was married to Miss +Mary, daughter of Colonel J. H. Hollister--the affair being the +consummation of a series of courtly addresses in which, as I have +related, it was my pleasurable privilege to play an intermediary part. +As might be expected of one who was himself an experienced and +generous entertainer, the wedding was a social event to be long and +pleasantly remembered by the friends of the bride and groom. Mrs. +Banning, who for years maintained an attractive home on Fort Hill, is +now living on Commonwealth Avenue. + +About this time, Colonel Isaac R. Dunkelberger came to Los Angeles to +live, having just finished his fifth year in the army in Arizona, +following a long service under Northern banners during the Civil War. +While here, the Colonel met and courted Miss Mary Mallard, daughter of +Judge Mallard; and on February 26th, 1867, they were married. For +eight years, from March, 1877, Dunkelberger was Postmaster. He died on +December 5th, 1904, survived by his widow and six children. While +writing about this estimable family, it occurs to me that Mary, then a +little girl, was one of the guests at my wedding. + +Frank Lecouvreur, who was Surveyor of Los Angeles County from 1870 +until 1873, was a native of East Prussia and like his predecessor, +George Hansen, came to California by way of the Horn. For a while, as +I have related, he was my bookkeeper. In 1877, he married Miss +Josephine Rosanna Smith who had renounced her vows as a nun. Ten years +later he suffered a paralytic stroke and was an invalid until his +death, on January 17th, 1901. + +Once introduced, the telegraph gradually grew in popularity; but even +in 1870, when the Western Union company had come into the field and +was operating as far as the Coast, service was anything but +satisfactory. The poles between Los Angeles and San Francisco had +become rotten and often fell, dragging the wires with them, and +interrupting communication with the North. There were no wires, up to +that time, to Santa Bárbara or San Bernardino; and only in the spring +of that year was it decided to put a telegraph line through to San +Diego. When the Santa Bárbara line was proposed, the citizens there +speedily subscribed twenty-two hundred and forty-five dollars; it +having been the company's plan always to get some local stockholders. + +As the result of real estate purchases and exchanges in the late +sixties and early seventies between Dr. J. S. Griffin, Phineas +Banning, B. D. Wilson, P. Beaudry and others, a fruit-growing colony +was planned in April, when it was proposed to take in some seventeen +hundred and fifty acres of the best part of the San Pasqual _rancho_, +including a ten-thousand-dollar ditch. A company, with a capital stock +of two hundred thousand dollars divided into four thousand shares of +fifty dollars each, was formed to grow oranges, lemons, grapes, +olives, nuts and raisins, John Archibald being President; R. M. +Widney, Vice-President; W. J. Taylor, Secretary; and the London & San +Francisco Bank, Treasurer. But although subscription books were opened +and the scheme was advertised, nothing was done with the land until D. +M. Berry and others came from Indiana and started the Indiana Colony. + +A rather uncommon personality for about thirty years was Fred Dohs, +who came from Germany when he was twenty-three and engaged in trading +horses. By 1870 he was managing a barber shop near the Downey Block, +and soon after was conducting a string band. For many years, the +barber-musician furnished the music for most of the local dances and +entertainments, at the same time (or until prices began to be cut) +maintaining his shop, where he charged two bits for a shave and four +bits for a hair-cut. During his prosperity, Dohs acquired property, +principally on East First Street. + +The first foot-bridge having finally succumbed to the turbulent waters +of the erratic Los Angeles River, the great flood of 1867-68 again +called the attention of our citizens to the necessity of establishing +permanent and safe communication between the two sides of the stream; +and this agitation resulted in the construction by Perry & Woodworth +of the first fairly substantial bridge at the foot of the old Aliso +Road, now Macy Street, at an outlay of some twenty thousand dollars. +Yet, notwithstanding the great necessity that had always existed for +this improvement, it is my recollection that it was not consummated +until about 1870. Like its poor little predecessor carried away by the +uncontrolled waters, the more dignified structure was broken up by a +still later flood, and the pieces of timber once so carefully put +together by a confident and satisfied people were strewn for a mile or +two along the river banks. + +'Way back in the formative years of Los Angeles, there were suddenly +added to the constellation of noteworthy local characters two jovial, +witty, good-for-nothing Irishmen who from the first were pals. The two +were known as Dan Kelly and Micky Free. Micky's right name was Dan +Harrington; but I never knew Kelly to go under any other appellation. +When sober, which was not very frequent, Dan and Micky were +good-natured, jocular and free from care, and it mattered not to +either of them whether the morrow might find them well-fed and at +liberty or in the jail then known as the Hotel de Burns: "sufficient +unto the day is the evil thereof" was the only philosophy they knew. +They were boon companions when free from drink; but when saturated, +they immediately fought like demons. They were both in the toils quite +ten months of the year, while during the other two months they carried +a hod! Of the two, Micky was the most irredeemable, and in time he +became such a nuisance that the authorities finally decided to ship +him out of the country and bought him a ticket to Oregon. Micky got as +far as San Pedro, where he traded his ticket for a case of delirium +tremens; but he did something more--he broke his leg and was bundled +back to Los Angeles, renewing here the acquaintance of both the +bartender and the jailer. Some years later, he astonished the town by +giving up drink and entering the Veterans's Home. When he died, they +gave him a soldier's honors and a soldier's grave. + +In 1870, F. Bonshard imported into Los Angeles County some five or six +hundred blooded Cashmere goats; and about the same time or perhaps +even earlier, J. E. Pleasants conducted at Los Nietos a similar +enterprise, at one time having four or five hundred of a superior +breed, the wool of which brought from twenty-five to thirty-five cents +a pound. The goat-fancying Pleasants also had some twelve hundred +Angoras. + +On June 1st, Henry Hamilton, who two years before had resumed the +editorship of the Los Angeles _Star_, then a weekly, issued the first +number of the _Daily Star_. He had taken into partnership George W. +Barter, who three months later started the _Anaheim Gazette_. In 1872, +Barter was cowhided by a woman, and a committee formally requested the +editor to vamose the town! Barter next bought the _Daily Star_ from +Hamilton, on credit, but he was unable to carry out his contract and +within a year Hamilton was again in charge. + +At the beginning of this decade, times in Arizona were really very +bad. H. Newmark & Company, who had large amounts due them from +merchants in that Territory, were not entirely easy about their +outstanding accounts, and this prompted Kaspare Cohn to visit our +customers there. I urged him to consider the dangers of the road and +to abandon his project; but he was determined to go. The story of the +trip, in the light of present methods and the comparative safety of +travel, is an interesting one, and I shall relate his experiences as +he described them to me. + +He started on a Saturday, going by stage (in preference to buckboard) +from Los Angeles to San Bernardino, and from there rode, as the only +passenger, with a stage-driver named Brown, passing through Frink's +Ranch, Gilman's, White River, Agua Caliente, Indian Wells, Toros, Dos +Palmas, Chuckawalla, Mule Springs and Willow Springs. H. Newmark & +Company had forwarded, on a prairie schooner driven by Jesse Allen of +Los Angeles, a considerable amount of merchandise which it was their +intention should be sold in Arizona, and the freighting charge upon +which was to be twelve and a half cents per pound. In Chuckawalla, +familiarly called Chucky Valley, the travelers overtook Allen and the +stock of goods; and this meeting in that lonesome region was the cause +of such mutual rejoicing that Kaspare provided as abundant an +entertainment as his limited stores would permit. Resuming their +journey from Chuckawalla, the driver and his companion soon left Allen +and his cumbersome load in the rear. + +It was near Granite Wash, as they were jogging along in the evening, +that they noticed some Indian fire signals. These were produced by +digging a hole in the ground, filling it with combustible material, +such as dry leaves, and setting fire to it. From the smoldering that +resulted, smoke was emitted and sparks burst forth. Observing these +ticklish warnings, the wayfarers sped away and escaped--perhaps, a +tragic fate. Arriving at Ehrenberg on a Tuesday morning, Kaspare +remained there all night. Still the only passenger, he left the next +day; and it may be imagined how cheering, after the previous +experience, was the driver's remark that, on account of the lonesome +character of the trip, and especially the danger from scalping +Apaches, he would never have departed without some company! + +Somewhere between Granite Wash and Wickenberg, a peculiar rattling +revealed a near-by snake, whereupon Kaspare jumped out and shot the +reptile, securing the tail and rattles. Changing horses or resting at +Tyson's Wells, McMullen's and Cullen's Station, they arrived the next +night at Wickenberg, the location of the Vulture Mines, where Kaspare +called upon the Superintendent--a man named Peoples--to collect a +large amount they owed us. Half of the sum was paid in gold bars, at +the rate of sixteen dollars per ounce, while the other half we lost. + +A niece of M. Kremer lived in Wickenberg, where her husband was in +business. She suffered a great deal from headaches, and a friend had +recommended, as a talisman, the possession of snake rattles. Kaspare, +with his accustomed gallantry, produced the specimen which he had +obtained and gave it to the lady; and it is to be hoped that she was +as permanently relieved of her pain as so many nowadays are cured of +imaginary troubles by no more substantial superstitions. + +Making short stops at Wilson's Station, Antelope Station, Kirkland +Valley, Skull Valley and Mint Valley, Kaspare reached Prescott, some +four hundred and thirty miles from San Bernardino, and enquired after +Dan Hazard, the ex-Mayor's brother and one of our customers--who died +about the middle of the eighties--and learned that he was then on his +way to St. Louis with teams to haul back freight for Levi Bashford +who, in addition to being an important trader, was Government Receiver +of Public Moneys. Kaspare decided to remain in Prescott until Hazard +returned; and as Jesse Allen soon arrived with the merchandise, +Kaspare had ample time to sell it. Bashford, as a Government official, +was not permitted to handle such goods as matches and cigars, which +bore revenue stamps, but Kaspare sold him quantities of lard, beans, +coffee, sugar and other supplies. He sold the revenue-stamped articles +to Buffum & Campbell, the former of whom had once been a well-known +resident of Los Angeles. He also disposed of some goods to Henderson +Brothers, afterward prominent bankers of Tucson and Globe, Arizona. In +the meantime, Dan Hazard returned and settled his account in full. + +Kaspare remained in Prescott nearly four weeks. Between the +collections that he made and the money which he received for the +consigned merchandise, he had about thirteen thousand dollars in +currency to bring back with him. With this amount of money on his +person, the return trip was more than ever fraught with danger. +Mindful of this added peril, Kaspare kept the time of his departure +from Prescott secret, no one, with the exception of Bashford, being in +his confidence. He prepared very quietly; and at the last moment, one +Saturday afternoon, he slipped into the stage and started for +California. Brown was again his companion as far as Ehrenberg. There +he met Frank Ganahl and Charles Strong, both soon to become Southern +Californians; and knowing them very well, their companionship +contributed during the rest of the trip not only pleasure but an +agreeable feeling of security. His arrival in Los Angeles afforded me +much relief, and the story of his adventures and success added more +than a touch of interest. + +The first street-sprinklers in Los Angeles were owned and operated +about the middle of July by T. W. McCracken, who was allowed by the +Council to call upon residents along the route for weekly +contributions to keep the water wagon going. + +I have told of the establishing of Hellman, Temple & Company as +bankers. In September, the first-named bought out his partners and +continued, until 1871, as Hellman & Company. + +With the commencement of autumn, when the belief prevailed that little +or nothing could be done toward persuading the Common Council to +beautify the Plaza, a movement to lay out and embellish the five-acre +tract bounded by Hill and Olive, and Fifth and Sixth streets, met with +such favor that, by the first week in October, some eight hundred +dollars had been subscribed for the purpose. On November 19th a public +meeting was held, presided over by Prudent Beaudry, Major H. M. +Mitchell serving as Secretary; and it was suggested to call the +proposed square the Los Angeles Park, and to enclose it, at a cost of +about five hundred dollars, with a fence. Another two hundred dollars +was soon made up; and the services of L. Carpenter, who offered to +plow the land prior to sowing grass-seed, were accepted in lieu of a +subscription. Both George Lehman and Elijah Workman showed their +public spirit by planting what have since become the largest trees +there. Sometime later, the name was changed to Central Park, by which +it is still known. + +The first hackney coach ever built in Los Angeles was turned out in +September by John Goller for J. J. Reynolds--about the same time that +the Oriental Stage Company brought a dozen new Concord coaches from +the East--and cost one thousand dollars. Goller was then famous for +elaborate vehicles and patented spring buggies which he shipped even +to pretentious and bustling San Francisco. Before the end of November, +however, friends of the clever and enterprising carriage-maker were +startled to hear that he had failed for the then not insignificant sum +of about forty thousand dollars. + +Up to the fall of the year, no connection existed between Temple and +First Streets west of Spring; but on the first day of September, a cut +through the hill, effected by means of chain-gang labor and continuing +Fort Street north, was completed, to the satisfaction of the entire +community. + +About the middle of October, a petition was presented to the Common +Council calling attention to the fact that the Los Angeles Water +Company two years before had agreed to erect a fountain on the Plaza; +and declaring that the open place was little short of a "scarecrow for +visitors." The Company immediately replied that it was ready to put up +the fountain; and in November the Council ordered the brick tank taken +away. At the beginning of August, 1871, the fountain began playing. + +During the second marshalship of William C. Warren, when Joe Dye was +one of his deputy officers, there was great traffic in Chinese women, +one of whom was kidnaped and carried off to San Diego. A reward of a +hundred dollars was offered for her return, and she was brought back +on a charge of theft and tried in the Court of Justice Trafford, on +Temple Street near Spring. During the trial, on October 31st, 1870, +Warren and Dye fell into a dispute as to the reward; and the quarrel +was renewed outside the courtroom. At a spot near the corner of Spring +and Temple streets Dye shot and killed Warren; and in the scrimmage +several other persons standing near were wounded. Dye was tried, but +acquitted. Later, however, he himself was killed by a nephew, Mason +Bradfield, whose life he had frequently threatened and who fired the +deadly bullet from a window of the New Arlington Hotel, formerly the +White House, at the southeast corner of Commercial and Los Angeles +streets. Mrs. C. P. Bradfield, Bradfield's mother and a teacher, who +came in 1875, was the author of certain text-books for drawing, +published by A. S. Barnes & Company of New York. + +Failures in raising and using camels in the Southwest were due, at +least partially, to ignorance of the animal's wants, a company of +Mexicans, in the early sixties, overloading some and treating them so +badly that nearly all died. Later, Frenchmen, who had had more +experience, secured the two camels left, and by 1870 there was a herd +of no less than twenty-five on a ranch near the Carson River in +Nevada, where they were used in packing salt for sixty miles or more +to the mills. + +On October 31st, the first Teacher's Institute held in Los Angeles +County was opened, with an attendance of thirty-five, in the old Bath +Street schoolhouse, that center being selected because the school +building at Spring and Second streets, though much better adapted to +the purpose, was considered to be too far out of town! County +Superintendent W. M. McFadden was President; J. M. Guinn was +Vice-President; and P. C. Tonner was Secretary; while a leader in +discussions was Dr. Truman H. Rose, who there gave a strong impetus to +the founding of the first high school. + +Soon after this Institute was held, the State Legislature authorized +bonds to the amount of twenty thousand dollars for the purpose of +erecting another schoolhouse; and the building was soon to be known as +the Los Angeles High School. W. H. Workman, M. Kremer and H. D. +Barrows were the building committee. + +Mentioning educators, I may introduce the once well-known name of +Professor Adams, an instructor in French who lived here in the early +seventies. He was so very urbane that on one occasion, while overdoing +his polite attention to a lady, he fell off the sidewalk and badly +broke his leg! + +In a previous chapter I have spoken of a Frenchman named Lachenais who +killed a fellow-countryman at a wake, the murder being one of a +succession of crimes for which he finally paid the penalty at the +hands of a Vigilance Committee in the last lynching witnessed here. + +Lachenais lived near where the Westminster Hotel now stands, on the +northeast corner of Main and Fourth streets, but he also had a farm +south of the city, adjoining that of Jacob Bell who was once a partner +in sheep-raising with John Schumacher. The old man was respectable and +quiet, but Lachenais quarreled with him over water taken from the +_zanja_. Without warning, he rode up to Bell as he was working in his +field and shot him dead; but there being no witnesses to the act, this +murder remained, temporarily, a mystery. One evening, as Lachenais (to +whom suspicion had been gradually directed), was lounging about in a +drunken condition, he let slip a remark as to the folly of anyone +looking for Bell's murderer; and this indiscretion led to his arrest +and incarceration. + +No sooner had the news of Lachenais's apprehension been passed along +than the whole town was in a turmoil. A meeting at Stearns's Hall was +largely attended; a Vigilance Committee was formed; Lachenais's record +was reviewed and his death at the hands of an outraged community was +decided upon. Everything being arranged, three hundred or more armed +men, under the leadership of Felix Signoret, the barber--Councilman in +1863 and proprietor of the Signoret Building opposite the Pico +House--assembled on the morning of December 17th, marched to the jail, +overcame Sheriff Burns and his assistants, took Lachenais out, dragged +him along to the corral of Tomlinson & Griffith (at the corner of +Temple and New High streets) and there summarily hanged him. Then the +mob, without further demonstration, broke up; the participants going +their several ways. The reader may have already observed that this was +not the first time that the old Tomlinson & Griffith gate had served +this same gruesome purpose. + +The following January, County Judge Y. Sepúlveda charged the Grand +Jury to do its duty toward ferreting out the leaders of the mob, and +so wipe out this reproach to the city; but the Grand Jury expressed +the conviction that if the law had hitherto been faithfully executed +in Los Angeles, such scenes in broad daylight would never have taken +place. The editor of the _News_, however, ventured to assert that this +report was but another disgrace. + + + + +CHAPTER XXIX + +THE CHINESE MASSACRE + +1871 + + +H. Newmark & Company enjoyed associations with nearly all of the most +important wool men and _rancheros_ in Southern California, our office +for many years being headquarters for these stalwarts, as many as a +dozen or more of whom would ofttimes congregate, giving the store the +appearance of a social center. They came in from their ranches and +discussed with freedom the different phases of their affairs and other +subjects of interest. Wheat, corn, barley, hay, cattle, sheep, +irrigation and kindred topics were passed upon; although in 1871 the +price of wool being out of all proportion to anything like its +legitimate value, the uppermost topic of conversation was wool. These +meetings were a welcome interruption to the monotony of our work. Some +of the most important of these visitors were Jotham, John W. and +Llewellyn Bixby, Isaac Lankershim, L. J. Rose, I. N. Van Nuys, R. S. +Baker, George Carson, Manuel Dominguez, Domingo Amestoy, Juan Matías +Sanchez, Dan Freeman, John Rowland, John Reed, Joe Bridger, Louis +Phillips, the brothers Garnier, Remi Nadeau, E. J. Baldwin, P. Banning +and Alessandro Repetto. There was also not a weather prophet, near or +far, who did not manage to appear at these weighty discussions and +offer his oracular opinions about the pranks of the elements; on which +occasions, one after another of these wise men would step to the door, +look at the sky and broad landscape, solemnly shake his head and then +render his verdict to the speculating circle within. According as the +moon emerged "so that one could hang something upon it," or in such a +manner that "water would run off" (as they pictured it), we were to +have dry or rainy weather; nor would volumes of talk shake their +confidence. Occasionally, I added a word, merely to draw out these +weather-beaten and interesting old chaps; but usually I listened +quietly and was entertained by all that was said. Hours would be spent +by these friends in chatting and smoking the time away; and if they +enjoyed the situation half as much as I did, pleasant remembrances of +these occasions must have endured with them. Many of those to whom I +have referred have ended their earthly careers, while others, living +in different parts of the county, are still hale and hearty. + +A curious character was then here, in the person of the reputed son of +a former, and brother of the then, Lord Clanmorris, an English +nobleman. Once a student at Dr. Arnold's famous Rugby, he had knocked +about the world until, shabbily treated by Dame Fortune, he had become +a sheepherder in the employ of the Bixbys. + +M. J. Newmark, who now came to visit us from New York, was admitted to +partnership with H. Newmark & Company, and this determined his future +residence. + +As was natural in a town of pueblo origin, plays were often advertised +in Spanish; one of the placards, still preserved, thus announcing the +attraction for January 30th, at the Merced Theater: + + TEATRO MERCED + + LOS ANGELES + + Lunes, Enero 30, de 1871 + + Primero Función de la Gran Compañia Dramática, De Don Tomás + Maguire, El Empresario Veterano de San Francisco, VEINTE Y + CUATRO Artistas de ambos sexos, todos conocidos como + ESTRELLAS de primera clase. + +In certain quarters of the city, the bill was printed in English. + +Credit for the first move toward the formation of a County Medical +Society here should probably be given to Dr. H. S. Orme, at whose +office early in 1871 a preliminary meeting was held; but it was in the +office of Drs. Griffin and Widney, on January 31st, that the +organization was effected, my friend Griffin being elected President; +Dr. R. T. Hayes, Vice-President; Dr. Orme, Treasurer; and Dr. E. L. +Dow, Secretary. Thus began a society which, in the intervening years, +has accomplished much good work. + +Late in January, Luther H. Titus, one of several breeders of fast +horses, brought from San Francisco by steamer a fine thoroughbred +stallion named _Echo_, a half-brother of the celebrated trotter +_Dexter_ which had been shipped from the East in a Central Pacific car +especially constructed for the purpose--in itself something of a +wonder then. Sporting men came from a distance to see the horse; but +interest was divided between the stallion and a mammoth turkey of a +peculiar breed, also brought west by Titus, who prophesied that the +bird, when full grown, would tip the beam at from forty-five to fifty +pounds. + +Early in February, the first steps were taken to reorganize and +consolidate the two banking houses in which Downey and Hellman were +interested, when it was proposed to start the Bank of Los Angeles, +with a capital of five hundred thousand dollars. Some three hundred +and eighty thousand dollars of this sum were soon subscribed; and by +the first week in April, twenty-five per cent. of the capital had been +called in. John G. Downey was President and I. W. Hellman was Cashier; +their office was in the former rooms of Hellman, Temple & Company. On +the tenth of April the institution was opened as the Farmers & +Merchants Bank; and on July 10th, J. G. Downey, Charles Ducommun, O. +W. Childs, I. M. Hellman, George Hansen, A. Glassell, J. S. Griffin, +José Mascarel and I. W. Hellman were chosen Trustees. From the first +the Bank prospered, so that when the crisis of 1875 tested the +substantiability of the financial institutions here, the Farmers & +Merchants rode the storm. In April, 1871, Hellman inaugurated a +popular policy when he offered to pay interest on time deposits, for +it brought many clients who had previously been accustomed to do their +banking in San Francisco; and before long the Bank advertised one +hundred thousand dollars to lend on good security. + +On February 14th, Stephen Samsbury, known as Buckskin Bill, and a man +named Carter murdered the twin brothers Bilderback who had taken up +some land very close to Verdugo--now incorporated in Glendale--and +were engaged in chopping wood; the murderers coveting the land and +planning to sell the fuel. Deputy Sheriff Dunlap went in pursuit of +the desperadoes, and noticing some loose earth in the roadbed near by, +he thrust a stick into the ground and so uncovered the blood-stained +end of a blanket which led to the finding of the bodies. + +J. F. Burns, who, at eighty-three years of age, still manifests his +old time spirit, being then Sheriff, pursued Buckskin Bill until the +twenty-fourth of June. A young soldier on the way to Fort Yuma met +Burns at San Pedro, and having agreed to sell him certain information +about the fugitive, revealed the fact that Bill had been seen near +Tecate, mounted on a horse, with his squaw and infant riding a mule. +The chase had previously taken the Sheriff from Verdugo Cañon to White +Pine, Nevada, and back to Los Angeles; and acting on this new clue, +Burns obtained a requisition on the Mexican Governor from Judge +Ygnácio Sepúlveda, and went to Lower California where, with Felipe +Zarate, a Mexican officer, he located the man after two or three days' +search. About twenty miles north of Real Castillo, the Sheriff found +the fugitive, and in the ensuing fight Samsbury accidentally shot +himself; and so terribly did the wounded man suffer that he begged +Burns to finish him at once. The Sheriff, refusing, improved the +opportunity to secure a full confession of Bill's numerous crimes, +among which figured the killing of five other men--besides the +Bilderback brothers--in different parts of California. + +After Samsbury died, Burns cut off his foot--known to have six +toes--and placed it in _mescal_, a popular and strongly-intoxicating +beverage of the Mexicans; and when later the Sheriff presented this +trophy to the good citizens of California, it was accepted as abundant +proof that the man he had gone after had been captured and disposed +of. The Legislature promptly paid Burns nearly five thousand dollars; +but Los Angeles County, which had pledged two hundred dollars' reward, +refused to recompense the doughty Sheriff and has never since made +good its promise. In 1889, Burns was Chief of Police, with Emil Harris +as his Captain. + +The earliest move toward the formation of a Los Angeles Board of Trade +was made, not in 1883, nor even in 1873--when the first Chamber of +Commerce began--but in 1871, a fact that seems to be generally +forgotten. Late in February of that year, a number of leading shippers +came together to discuss Coast trade and other interests; and B. L. +Peel moved that a Board of Trade be organized. The motion was carried +and the organization was effected; but with the waning of enthusiasm +for the improvements proposed or, perhaps, through the failure of its +members to agree, the embryonic Board of Trade soon died. + +In February, B. L. Peel & Company installed the telegraph in their +commission office--probably the first instance of a private wire in +local business history. + +At the outset of the somewhat momentous decade of the seventies, +Hellman, Haas & Company was established, with H. W. Hellman, Jacob +Haas and B. Cohn partners; their first store being on the east side of +Los Angeles Street opposite H. Newmark & Company's. Abraham Haas, who +came in December, 1873, had a share in his brother's venture from the +start; but it was not until 1875, when he bought out Cohn's interest, +that he became a partner. Ten years after the firm commenced business, +that is, in 1881, Jacob Baruch, who had come to California with J. +Loew, and with him had made his start at Galatin, was admitted to +partnership; and in 1889, a year after Jacob Haas's death, Haas & +Baruch bought out H. W. Hellman. Then it was that Haas, Baruch & +Company, a name so agreeably known throughout Southern California, +first entered the field, their activity--immediately felt--permitting +very little of the proverbial grass to grow under one's feet. On +January 7th, 1909, Jacob Baruch died. Haas since December 12th, 1900 +has been a resident of San Francisco. + +This year the United States Government began the great work of +improving Wilmington or San Pedro Harbor. The gap between Rattlesnake +and Dead Man's islands was closed by means of a breakwater, creating a +regular current in the channel; and dredging to a depth of seventeen +or eighteen feet first made it possible for vessels of size to cross +the bar at low tide. Among those active in preparing documents for +Congress and securing the survey was Judge R. M. Widney, of whose +public services mention has been made; while Phineas Banning, at his +own expense, made trips to Washington in behalf of the project. + +A genuine novelty was introduced in 1871, when Downs & Bent late in +February opened a roller-skating rink at Teutonia Hall. Twenty-five +cents was charged for admission, and an additional quarter demanded +for the use of skates. Ladies and gentlemen flocked to enjoy the new +sensation; a second rink was soon opened in Los Angeles and another in +El Monte; and among those who became proficient skaters was Pancho +Coronel, one of the social lions of his day. In time, however, the +craze waned, and what had been hailed as fashionable because of its +popularity in the great cities of the East, lost in favor, +particularly among those of social pretensions. + +In March, a call for a meeting to organize an Agricultural Society for +the Counties of Los Angeles, Santa Bárbara, San Bernardino, Kern and +San Diego brought together a large number of our citizens. L. J. Rose +and his neighbor L. H. Titus, Dr. J. S. Griffin, Colonel J. J. Warner, +Judge H. K. S. O'Melveny, Judge A. J. King, John G. Downey, F. N. +Slaughter and many others including myself became actively interested, +and then and there started the Southern District Agricultural Society +which, for years, contributed so much to advance the agricultural +interests of Southern California. Annual trotting races, lasting a +week, lent impetus to the breeding of fine stock, for which this part +of the State became famous. L. J. Rose was the moving spirit in this +enterprise; and he it was who induced me and other friends to +participate. + +Even the first ice machine, in March, did not freeze the price below +four cents per pound. + +Edited by Henry C. Austin, the _Evening Express_ made its first +appearance on March 27th. It was started by the printers, George and +Jesse Yarnell, George A. Tiffany, J. W. Paynter and Miguel Verelo; but +James J. Ayers--in 1882 State Printer--who was one of the founders of +the San Francisco _Morning Call_, succeeded Austin in 1875, and then +the Yarnells and Verelo retired. + +L. V. Prudhomme, better known as Victor Prudhomme--a name sometimes, +but probably incorrectly, spelled Prudhon--who is said to have come +from France about the middle of the thirties, died here on May 8th. +His wife was a Spanish woman and for a while they resided on the east +side of Main Street between Requena and First, not far from my +brother's store. As a rather active member of the French Colony, he +was a man in good standing, and was engaged, it seems to me, in the +wine industry. He also owned some land near San Bernardino and was +continually visiting that place. + +On May 27th, S. J. Millington, announced as "the pioneer dancing +master of California," opened a dancing academy at Stearns's Hall, and +it at once sprang into social favor. He had morning classes for +children and evening classes for adults. I happen to recall the +circumstances more clearly for I was one of his committee of patrons. +Dances, by the way, were given frequently, and were often attended in +costume and even in disguise. I remember such an occasion in the early +seventies when elaborate toilettes and variety of dress marked an +advance in these harmless diversions. Conspicuous among the guests was +John Jones, elderly and seldom given to frivolity, who appeared in the +character of the Father of his Country. + +In early June, a Chinese junk, cruising in search of _abalones_, +attracted no little attention at San Pedro as a primitive and clumsy +specimen of marine architecture. + +The sudden and abnormal demand for the _abalone_ shell offered such +large returns as to tempt men to take desperate chances in hunting for +them among the rocks. Sometime in the seventies, a Chinaman, searching +near San Diego, thrust his hand into an open shell and the _abalone_ +closed upon his wrist with such an irresistible grip that the +unfortunate shell-hunter was held fast until overtaken by the rising +tide and drowned. + +For many years Los Angeles booklovers were supplied by merchants who +sold other things, or who conducted a limited loan library in +conjunction with their business. Such a circulating collection Samuel +Hellman displayed in February, 1871. The first exclusively book and +periodical store was opened in the same year, by Brodrick & Reilly, +adjoining the Post Office on Spring street. + +Albert Fenner Kercheval, who took up his residence in 1871 on the west +side of Pearl Street near the end of Sixth, on what was formerly known +as the Gelcich Place, first came to California--Hangtown--in 1849 and +experienced much the same kind of mining adventure as inspired Bret +Harte. On his second visit to the Coast, Kercheval raised strawberries +and early tomatoes, for which he found a ready sale in San Francisco; +and in his spare moments he wrote poems--collected and published in +1883 under the title of _Dolores_--some of which rather cleverly +reflect California life. + +On June 19th, the Teutonia-Concordia society merged with the Los +Angeles Turnverein, forming the Turnverein-Germania; and about the +same time, the original home of the _Verein_, a frame building on +South Spring Street, was erected. In that year, also, the first German +school was founded--the sessions being conducted at the old Round +House. + + [Illustration: + + (_Standing_) Lorenzo Leck + Louis Mesmer + William Nordholt + + (_Sitting_) Henry C. G. Schaeffer + Henry Hammel + John Schumacher] + + [Illustration: Turnverein-Germania Building, Spring Street] + +Having had no fitting celebration of the Fourth of July for years, a +number of citizens in 1871 called a meeting to consider the matter, +and A. J. Johnston, L. Lichtenberger, W. H. Perry, J. M. Griffith, +John Wilson, O. W. Childs and myself were appointed to make +arrangements. A list of forty or fifty leading merchants willing to +close their places of business on Independence Day was drawn up; a +program was easily prepared; and the music, display of flags and +bunting, and the patriotic addresses awakened, after such a neglect of +the occasion, new and edifying emotions. + +Slight regard was formerly paid by officers to the safety or life of +the Indian, who had a persistent weakness for alcohol; and when +citizens did attend to the removal of these inebriates, they +frequently looked to the Municipality for compensation. For instance: +at a meeting of the Common Council, in July, Pete Wilson presented a +bill of two dollars and a half "for the removal of a nuisance," which +nuisance, upon investigation, was shown to have been a drunken squaw +whom he had retired from the street! The Council, after debating the +momentous question of reimbursement, finally reached a compromise by +which the City saved just--twenty-five cents. + +Alexander Bell died on July 24th, after a residence of twenty-nine +years in Los Angeles. + +Beginning with the seventies, attention was directed to Santa Monica +as a possible summer resort, but it was some years before many people +saw in the Bay and its immediate environment the opportunities upon +which thousands have since seized. In the summer of 1871 less than +twenty families, the majority in tents, sojourned there among the +sycamore groves in the Cañon where J. M. Harned had a bar and +"refreshment parlor." The attractions of beach and surf, however, were +beginning to be appreciated, and so were the opportunities for +shooting--at Tell's and elsewhere; and on Sundays two or three hundred +excursionists frequently visited that neighborhood, Reynolds, the +liveryman, doing a thriving business carrying people to the beach. + +Speaking of this gradual awakening to the attractions of Santa Monica, +I recall that school children of the late sixties held their picnics +at the Cañon, going down on crowded stages where the choicest seats +were on the box; and that one of the most popular drivers of that +period was Tommy O'Campo. He handled the reins with the dexterity of a +Hank Monk, and before sunrise Young America would go over to the +corral, there to wait long and patiently in order to get an +especially desirable seat on Tommy's stage. + +With the completion of the Los Angeles & San Pedro Railroad, +excursions to Catalina began to be in vogue; but as the local +population was small, considerable effort was needed sometimes to +secure enough patrons to make the trips pay. Thus an excursion for +Sunday, August 13th, was advertised by the skipper of the steamer +_Vaquero_, a couple of dollars for the round trip being charged, with +half price for children; but by Saturday morning the requisite number +of subscribers had not been obtained, and the excursion was called +off. + +Otto J. and Oswald F. Zahn, sons of Dr. Johann Carl Zahn who came here +about 1871, were carrier-pigeon fanciers and established a service +between Avalon and Los Angeles, fastening their messages, written on +tissue paper, by delicate wire to the birds' legs. For some time the +Catalina Pigeon Messengers, as they were called, left Avalon late in +the afternoon, after the last steamer, bringing news that appeared in +the Los Angeles newspapers of the following morning. Usually the birds +took a good hour in crossing the channel; but on one occasion, _Blue +Jim_, the champion, covered the distance of forty-eight miles in fifty +minutes. + +On the evening of August 23d, the announcement came over the wires of +Don Abel Stearns's death in San Francisco, at five o'clock that +afternoon, at the Grand Hotel. Late in October, his body was brought +to Los Angeles for final interment, the tombstone having arrived from +San Francisco a week or two previously. Awesome indeed was the scene +that I witnessed when the ropes sustaining the eight hundred pound +metallic casket snapped, pitching the coffin and its grim contents +into the grave. I shall never forget the unearthly shriek of Doña +Arcadia, as well as the accident itself. + +With the wane of summer, we received the startling news of the death, +through Indians, of Frederick Loring, the young journalist and author +well known in Los Angeles, who was with the United States Exploring +Expedition to Arizona as a correspondent of _Appleton's Journal_. +"Bootless, coatless and everything but lifeless," as he put it, he +had just escaped perishing in Death Valley, when the stage party was +attacked by Apaches, and Loring and four other passengers were killed. + +In September, during Captain George J. Clarke's administration as +Postmaster, foreign money-orders began to be issued here for the first +time, payable only in Great Britain and Ireland, twenty-five cents +being charged for sending ten dollars or less; and shortly afterward, +international money-orders were issued for Germany and some other +Continental countries. Then five or six hundred letters for Los +Angeles County were looked upon as rather a large dispatch by one +steamer from San Francisco and the North; and the canceling of from +twelve to fifteen dollars' worth of stamps a day was regarded as "big +business." + +Vincent Collyer--the Peace Commissioner sent out with General O. O. +Howard by the Government in 1868--who eventually made himself most +unpopular in Arizona by pleading the cause of the scalping Apaches in +the fall of 1871, put up at the Pico House; when public feeling led +one newspaper to suggest that if the citizens wished "to see a +_monster_," they had "only to stand before the hotel and watch Collyer +pass to and fro!" + +In the fall, tidings of Chicago's awful calamity by fire reached Los +Angeles, but strange to say, no public action was taken until the +editor of the Los Angeles _News_, on October 12th, gave vent to his +feelings in the following editorial: + + Three days ago the press of this City called upon the + public generally to meet at a stated hour last evening, at + the County Courtroom, to do something towards alleviating + the sufferings of the destitute thousands in Chicago. The + calamity which has overtaken that unfortunate City has + aroused the sympathy of the world, and the heart and pulse + of civilized humanity voluntarily respond, extending + assistance in deeds as well as in words. From all parts of + the globe, where the name of Chicago is known, liberal + donations flow into a common treasury. We had hoped to be + able to add the name of Los Angeles among the list, as + having done its duty. But in whatever else she may excel, + her charity is a dishonorable exception. Her bowels are + absolute strangers to sympathy, when called upon to + practically demonstrate it. At the place of meeting, + instead of seeing the multitude, we were astonished to find + but three persons, viz: Governor Downey, John Jones, and a + gentleman from Riverside, who is on a visit here. Anything + more disgraceful than this apathy on the part of her + inhabitants she could not have been guilty of. For her + selfishness, she justly deserves the fearful fate that has + befallen the helpless one that now lies stricken in the + dust. Let her bow down her head in shame. Chicago, our + response to your appeal is, _Starve_! _What do we care?_ + +This candid rebuke was not without effect; a committee was immediately +formed to solicit contributions from the general public, and within an +hour a tidy sum had been raised. By October 18th the fund had reached +over two thousand dollars, exclusive of two hundred and fifty dollars +given by the Hebrew Benevolent Society and still another hundred +dollars raised by the Jewish ladies. + +About the twenty-first of October a "war" broke out near Nigger Alley +between two rival factions of the Chinese on account of the forcible +carrying off of one of the companies' female members, and the steamer +_California_ soon brought a batch of Chinamen from San Francisco, sent +down, it was claimed, to help wreak vengeance on the abductors. On +Monday, October 23d some of the contestants were arrested, brought +before Justice Gray and released on bail. It was expected that this +would end the trouble; but at five o'clock the next day the factional +strife broke loose again, and officers, accompanied by citizens, +rushed to the place to attempt an arrest. The Chinese resisted and +Officer Jesus Bilderrain was shot in the right shoulder and wrist, +while his fifteen-year-old brother received a ball in the right leg. +Robert Thompson, a citizen who sprang to Bilderrain's assistance, was +met by a Chinaman with two revolvers and shot to death. Other shots +from Chinese barricaded behind some iron shutters wounded a number of +bystanders. + +News of the attacks and counter-attacks spread like wildfire, and a +mob of a thousand or more frenzied beyond control, armed with pistols, +guns, knives and ropes, and determined to avenge Thompson's murder, +assembled in the neighborhood of the disturbance. While this solid +phalanx was being formed around Nigger Alley, a Chinaman, waving a +hatchet, was seen trying to escape across Los Angeles Street; and Romo +Sortorel, at the expense of some ugly cuts on the hand, captured him. +Emil Harris then rescued the Mongolian; but a detachment of the crowd, +yelling "Hang him! shoot him!" overpowered Harris at Temple and Spring +streets, and dragged the trembling wretch up Temple to New High +street, where the familiar framework of the corral gates suggested its +use as a gallows. With the first suspension, the rope broke; but the +second attempt to hang the prisoner was successful. Other Chinamen, +whose roofs had been smashed in, were rushed down Los Angeles Street +to the south side of Commercial, and there, near Goller's wagon shop, +between wagons stood on end, were hung. Alarmed for the safety of +their cook, Sing Ty, the Juan Lanfrancos hid the Mongolian for a week, +until the excitement had subsided. + +Henry T. Hazard was lolling comfortably in a shaving saloon, under the +luxurious lather of the barber, when he heard of the riot; and +arriving on the scene, he mounted a barrel and attempted to +remonstrate with the crowd. Some friends soon pulled him down, warning +him that he might be shot. A. J. King was at supper when word was +brought to him that Chinese were slaughtering white people, and he +responded by seizing his rifle and two revolvers. In trying one of the +latter, however, it was prematurely discharged, taking the tip off a +finger and putting him _hors de combat_. Sheriff Burns could not reach +the scene until an hour after the row started and many Chinamen had +already taken their celestial flight. When he arrived, he called for a +_posse comitatus_ to assist him in handling the situation; but no one +responded. He also demanded from the leader of the mob and others that +they disperse; but with the same negative result. About that time, a +party of rioters started with a Chinaman up Commercial Street to +Main, evidently bent on hanging him to the Tomlinson & Griffith gate; +and when Burns promised to attempt a rescue if he had but two +volunteers, Judge R. M. Widney and James Goldsworthy responded and the +Chinaman was taken from his tormentors and lodged in jail. Besides +Judge Widney, Cameron E. Thom and H. C. Austin displayed great courage +in facing the mob, which was made up of the scum and dregs of the +city; and Sheriff Burns is also entitled to much credit for his part +in preventing the burning of the Chinese quarters. All the efforts of +the better element, however, did not prevent one of the most +disgraceful of all disturbances which had occurred since my arrival in +Los Angeles. On October 25th, when Coroner Joseph Kurtz impanelled his +jury, nineteen bodies of Chinamen alone were in evidence and the +verdict was: "Death through strangulation by persons unknown to the +jury." Emil Harris's testimony at the inquest, that but one of the +twenty-two or more victims deserved his fate, about hits the mark and +confirms the opinion that the slight punishment to half a dozen of the +conspirators was very inadequate. + +At the time of the massacre, I heard a shot just as I was about to +leave my office, and learned that it had been fired from that part of +Chinatown facing Los Angeles Street; and I soon ascertained that it +had ended Thompson's life. Anticipating no further trouble, however, I +went home to dinner. When I returned to town, news of the riot had +spread, and with my neighbors, Cameron E. Thom and John G. Downey, I +hurried to the scene. It was then that I became an eye-witness to the +heroic, if somewhat comical parts played by Thom and Burns. The +former, having climbed to the top of a box, harangued the crowd, while +the Sheriff, who had succeeded in mounting a barrel, was also +addressing the tumultuous rabble in an effort to restore order. +Unfortunately, this receptacle had been coopered to serve as a +container, not as a rostrum; and the head of the cask under the +pressure of two hundred pounds or more of official avoirdupois +suddenly collapsed and our Worthy Guardian of the Peace dropped, with +accelerated speed, clear through to the ground, and quite +unintentionally, for the moment at least, turned grim tragedy into +grotesque comedy. + +Following this massacre, the Chinese Government made such a vigorous +protest to the United States that the Washington authorities finally +paid a large indemnity. During these negotiations, Chinese throughout +the country held lamentation services for the Los Angeles victims; and +on August 2d, 1872, four Chinese priests came from San Francisco to +conduct the ceremonies. + +In 1870, F. P. F. Temple, who had seen constructed two sections of the +building now known as Temple Block, made the fatal blunder of +accepting the friendly advice that led him to erect the third section +at the junction of Spring and Main streets, and to establish therein a +bank under the name of Temple & Workman. The building, costing in the +neighborhood of one hundred and fifty thousand dollars, was all that +could have been desired, proving by long odds the most ornamental +edifice in the city; and when, on November 23d, 1871, the bank was +opened in its comfortable quarters on the Spring Street side of the +block, nothing seemed wanting to success. The furnishings were +elaborate, one feature of the office outfit being a very handsome +counter of native cedar, a decided advance in decoration over the +primitive bare or painted wood then common here. Neither Temple, who +had sold his fine ranch near Fort Tejón to embark in the enterprise, +nor Workman had had any practical experience in either finance or +commerce; and to make matters worse, Workman, being at that time a +very old man, left the entire management to his son-in-law, Temple, in +whom he had full confidence. It soon became evident that anybody could +borrow money with or without proper security, and unscrupulous people +hastened to take advantage of the situation. In due season I shall +tell what happened to this bank. + +In the preceding spring when the Coast-line stage companies were still +the only rivals to the steamers, a movement favoring an opposition +boat was started, and by June leading shippers were discussing the +advisability of even purchasing a competitive steamer; all the +vessels up to that time having been owned by companies or individuals +with headquarters in the Northern metropolis. Matthew Keller was then +in San Francisco; and having been led to believe that a company could +be financed, books were opened for subscriptions in Los Angeles, Santa +Bárbara, San Luis Obispo and elsewhere. For lack of the necessary +support, this plan was abandoned; but late in July a meeting was held +in the Bella Union to further consider the matter. Among those present +was George Wright, long engaged in coast shipping; and he proposed to +sell the control of the _Olympia_. + +H. Newmark & Company being considerably interested in the movement, +declared themselves ready to coöperate in improving the situation; for +which reason great surprise was expressed when, in December, 1871, B. +L. Peel, the commission merchant, made an attack on us, openly +charging that, although "the largest shippers in the city," we had +revoked our pledge to sustain the opposition to high freight rates, +and so had contributed toward defeating the enterprise! It is true +that we finally discouraged the movement, but for a good and +sufficient reason: Wright was in the steamship business for anything +but his health. His method was to put on a tramp steamer and then cut +passenger and freight rates ridiculously low, until the regular line +would buy him out; a project which, on former occasions, had caused +serious disturbances to business. When therefore Wright made this +offer, in 1871, H. Newmark & Company forthwith refused to participate. +I shall show that, when greater necessity required it, we took the +lead in a movement against the Southern Pacific which, for lack of +loyalty on the part of many of the other shippers, met not only with +disastrous failure but considerable pecuniary loss to ourselves. + +On December 18th, 1871, Judge Murray Morrison died. Three days later, +his wife, Jennie, whom we knew as the attractive daughter of Dr. +Thomas J. White, also breathed her last. + + + + +CHAPTER XXX + +THE WOOL CRAZE + +1872-1873 + + +As already stated, the price of wool in 1871 was exceedingly high and +continued advancing until in 1872 when, as a result, great prosperity +in Southern California was predicted. Enough wool had been bought by +us to make what at that time was considered a very handsome fortune. +We commenced purchasing on the sheep's back in November, and continued +buying everything that was offered until April, 1872, when we made the +first shipment, the product being sold at forty-five cents per pound. +As far as I am aware, the price of wool had never reached fifty cents +anywhere in the world, it being ordinarily worth from ten to twelve +cents; and without going into technicalities, which would be of no +interest to the average reader, I will merely say that forty-five +cents was a tremendously high figure for dirty, burry, California wool +in the grease. When the information arrived that this sale had been +effected, I became wool-crazy, the more so since I knew that the +particular shipment referred to was of very poor quality. + +Colonel R. S. Baker, who was living on his ranch in Kern County, came +to Los Angeles about that time, and we offered him fifty cents a pound +for Beale & Baker's clip amounting to one hundred and seventy-five +thousand pounds. His reply was that it would be impossible to sell +without consulting Beale; but Beale proved as wool-crazy as I, and +would not sell. It developed that Beale & Baker did not succeed in +effecting a sale in San Francisco, where they soon offered their +product, and that they concluded to ship it to Boston; the New England +metropolis then, as now, being the most important wool-center in the +United States. Upon its arrival, the wool was stored; and there it +remained until, as Fate would have it, the entire shipment was later +destroyed in the great Boston fire of 1872. As a result of this +tremendous conflagration, the insurance company which carried their +policy failed and Beale & Baker met with a great loss. + +The brothers Philip, Eugène and Camille Garnier of the Encino +Ranch--who, while generally operating separately, clubbed together at +that time in disposing of their product--had a clip of wool somewhat +exceeding one hundred and fifty thousand pounds. The spokesman for the +three was Eugène, and on the same day that I made Colonel Baker the +offer of fifty cents, I told Eugène that I would allow him forty-eight +and a half cents for the Garnier product. This offer he disdainfully +refused, returning immediately to his ranch; and now, as I look back +upon the matter, I do not believe that in my entire commercial +experience I ever witnessed anything demonstrating so thoroughly, as +did these wool transactions, the monstrous greed of man. The sequel, +however, points the moral. My offer to the Garnier Brothers was made +on a Friday. During that day and the next, we received several +telegrams indicating that the crest of the craze had been reached, and +that buyers refused to take hold. On Monday following the first visit +of Eugène Garnier, he again came to town and wanted me to buy their +wool at the price which I had quoted him on Friday; but by that time +we had withdrawn from the market. My brother wired that San Francisco +buyers would not touch it; hence the Garnier Brothers also shipped +their product East and, after holding it practically a full year, +finally sold it for sixteen and a half cents a pound in currency, +which was then worth eighty-five cents on the dollar. The year 1872 is +on record as the most disastrous wool season in our history, when +millions were lost; and H. Newmark & Company suffered their share in +the disaster. + +It was in March that we purchased from Louis Wolfskill, through the +instrumentality of L. J. Rose, the Santa Anita _rancho_, consisting of +something over eight thousand acres, paying him eighty-five thousand +dollars for this beautiful domain. The terms agreed upon were twenty +thousand dollars down and four equal quarterly payments for the +balance. In the light of the aftermath, the statement that our +expectations of prospective wool profits inspired this purchase seems +ludicrous, but it was far from laughable at the time; for it took less +than sixty days for H. Newmark & Company to discover that buying +ranches on any such basis was not a very safe policy to follow and +would, if continued, result in disaster. Indeed, the outcome was so +different from our calculations, that it pinched us somewhat to meet +our obligations to Wolfskill. This purchase, as I shall soon show, +proved a lucky one, and compensated for the earlier nervous and +financial strain. John Simmons, who drove H. Newmark & Company's truck +and slept in a barn in my back yard on Main Street, was so reliable a +man that we made him overseer of the ranch. When we sold the property, +Simmons was engaged by Lazard Frères, the San Francisco bankers, to do +special service that involved the carrying of large sums of money. + +When we bought the Santa Anita, there were five eucalyptus or blue gum +trees growing near the house. I understood at the time that these had +been planted by William Wolfskill from seed sent to him by a friend in +Australia; and that they were the first eucalyptus trees cultivated in +Southern California. Sometime early in 1875, the Forest Grove +Association started the first extensive tract of eucalyptus trees seen +in Los Angeles, and in a decade or two the eucalyptus had become a +familiar object; one tree, belonging to Howard & Smith, florists at +the corner of Olive and Ninth streets, attaining,[31] after a growth +of nineteen years, a height of one hundred and thirty-four feet. + +On the morning of March 26th, Los Angeles was visited by an earthquake +of sufficient force to throw people out of bed, many men, women and +children seeking safety by running out in their night-clothes. A day +or two afterward excited riders came in from the Owens River Valley +bringing reports which showed the quake to have been the worst, so far +as loss of life was concerned, that had afflicted California since the +memorable catastrophe of 1812. + +Intending thereby to encourage the building of railroads, the +Legislature, on April 4th, 1870, authorized the various Boards of +Supervisors to grant aid whenever the qualified voters so elected. +This seemed a great step forward, but anti-railroad sentiment, as in +the case of Banning's line, again manifested itself here. The Southern +Pacific, just incorporated as a subsidiary of the Central Pacific, was +laying its tracks down the San Joaquín Valley; yet there was grave +doubt whether it would include Los Angeles or not. It contemplated a +line through Teháchepi Pass; but from that point two separate surveys +had been made, one by way of Soledad Pass via Los Angeles, through +costly tunnels and over heavy grades; the other, straight to the +Needles, over an almost level plain along the Thirty-fifth parallel, +as anticipated by William H. Seward in his Los Angeles speech. At the +very time when every obstacle should have been removed, the opposition +so crystallized in the Legislature that a successful effort was made +to repeal the subsidy law; but thanks to our representatives, the +measure was made ineffective in Los Angeles County, should the voters +specifically endorse the project of a railroad. + +In April, 1872, Tom Mott and B. D. Wilson wrote Leland Stanford that a +meeting of the taxpayers, soon to be called, would name a committee to +confer with the railroad officials; and Stanford replied that he would +send down E. W. Hyde to speak for the company. About the first of May, +however, a few citizens gathered for consultation at the Board of +Trade room; and at that meeting it was decided unanimously to send to +San Francisco a committee of two, consisting of Governor Downey and +myself, there to convey to the Southern Pacific Company the overtures +of the City. We accordingly visited Collis P. Huntington, whose +headquarters were at the Grand Hotel; and during our interview we +canvassed the entire situation. In the course of this interesting +discussion, Huntington displayed some engineer's maps and showed us +how, in his judgment, the railroad, if constructed to Los Angeles at +all, would have to enter the city. When the time for action arrived, +the Southern Pacific built into Los Angeles along the lines indicated +in our interview with Huntington. + +On Saturday afternoon, May 18th, 1872, a public meeting was held in +the Los Angeles Court-house. Governor Downey called the assembly to +order; whereupon H. K. S. O'Melveny was elected President and Major +Ben C. Truman, Secretary. Speeches were made by Downey, Phineas +Banning, B. D. Wilson, E. J. C. Kewen and C. H. Larrabee; and +resolutions were adopted pledging financial assistance from the +County, provided the road was constructed within a given time. A +Committee was then appointed to seek general information concerning +railroads likely to extend their lines to Los Angeles; and on that +Committee I had the honor of serving with F. P. F. Temple, A. F. +Coronel, H. K. S. O'Melveny, J. G. Downey, S. B. Caswell, J. M. +Griffith, Henry Dalton, Andrés Pico, L. J. Rose, General George +Stoneman and D. W. Alexander. A few days later, Wilson, Rose and W. R. +Olden of Anaheim were sent to San Francisco to discuss terms with the +Southern Pacific; and when they returned, they brought with them +Stanford's representative, Hyde. Temple, O'Melveny and I were made a +special committee to confer with Hyde in drawing up ordinances for the +County; and these statutes were immediately passed by the Supervisors. +The Southern Pacific agreed to build fifty miles of its main trunk +line through the County, with a branch line to Anaheim; and the +County, among other conditions, was to dispose of its stock in the Los +Angeles & San Pedro Railroad to the Southern Pacific Company. + +When all this matter was presented to the people, the opposition was +even greater than in the campaign of 1868. One newspaper--the _Evening +Express_--while declaring that "railway companies are soulless +corporations, invariably selfish, with a love for money," even +maintained that "because they are rich, they have no more right to +build to us than has Governor Downey to build our schoolhouses." +Public addresses were made to excited, demonstrative audiences by +Henry T. Hazard, R. M. Widney and others who favored the Southern +Pacific. On the evening of November 4th, or the night before the +election, the Southern Pacific adherents held a torchlight procession +and a mass-meeting, at the same time illuminating the pueblo with the +customary bonfires. When the vote was finally counted, it was found +that the Southern Pacific had won by a big majority; and thus was made +the first concession to the railroad which has been of such paramount +importance in the development of this section of the State. + +In 1872, Nathaniel C. Carter, who boasted that he made for the +Government the first American flag woven by machinery, purchased and +settled upon a part of the Flores _rancho_ near San Gabriel. Through +wide advertising, Carter attracted his Massachusetts friends to this +section; and in 1874 he started the Carter excursions and brought +train-loads of people to Los Angeles. + +Terminating a series of wanderings by sea and by land, during which he +had visited California in 1849, John Lang, father of Gustav J. (once a +Police Commissioner), came to Los Angeles for permanent residence in +1872, bringing a neat little pile of gold. With part of his savings he +purchased the five acres since known as the Laurel Tract on Sixteenth +Street, where he planted an orchard, and some of the balance he put +into a loan for which, against his will, he had to take over the lot +on Spring Street between Second and Third where the Lang Building now +stands. Soon after his advent here, Lang found himself one of four +persons of the same name, which brought about such confusion between +him, the pioneer at Lang's Station and two others, that the bank +always labelled him "Lang No. 1," while it called the station master +"Lang No. 2." In 1866, Lang had married, in Victoria, Mrs. Rosine +Everhardt, a sister of Mrs. Kiln Messer; and his wife refusing to live +at the lonesome ranch, Lang bought, for four hundred dollars, the lot +on Fort Street on which Tally's Theater now stands, and built there a +modest home from which he went out daily to visit his orchard. Being +of an exceedingly studious turn of mind, Lang devoted his spare time +to profitable reading; and to such an extent had he secluded himself +that, when he died, on December 9th, 1900, he had passed full thirty +years here without having seen Santa Monica or Pasadena. Nor had he +entered the courtroom more than once, and then only when compelled to +go there to release some property seized upon for taxes remaining +unpaid by one of the other John Langs. Regarded by his family as +idealistic and kind-hearted, John Lang was really such a hermit that +only with difficulty were friends enough found who could properly +serve as pall-bearers. + +On June 2d, B. F. Ramirez and others launched the Spanish newspaper, +_La Cronica_, from the control of which Ramirez soon retired to make +way for E. F. de Celis. Under the latter's leadership, the paper +became notable as a Coast organ for the Latin race. Almost +simultaneously, A. J. King and A. Waite published their City +Directory. + +On the seventeenth of July our family circle was gladdened by the +wedding festivities of Kaspare Cohn and Miss Hulda, sister of M. A. +Newmark. The bride had been living with us for some time as a member +of our family. + +I have spoken of the attempt made, in 1859, to found a Public Library. +In 1872, there was another agitation that led to a mass-meeting on +December 7th, in the old Merced Theatre on Main Street; and among +others present were Judge Ygnácio Sepúlveda, General George H. +Stoneman, Governor John G. Downey, Henry Kirk White Bent, S. B. +Caswell, W. J. Brodrick, Colonel G. H. Smith, W. B. Lawlor and myself. +The Los Angeles Library Association was formed; and Downey, Bent, +Brodrick, Caswell and I were appointed to canvas for funds and +donations of books. Fifty dollars was charged for a life membership, +and five dollars for yearly privileges; and besides these +subscriptions, donations and loans of books maintained the Library. +The institution was established in four small, dark rooms of the old +Downey Block on Temple and Spring streets, where the Federal Building +now stands, and where the _Times_, then the youngest newspaper in Los +Angeles, was later housed; and there J. C. Littlefield acted as the +first Librarian. In 1874, the State Legislature passed an enabling act +for a Public Library in Los Angeles, and from that time on public +funds contributed to the support of the worthy undertaking. + +On January 1st, 1873, M. A. Newmark, who had come to Los Angeles eight +years before, was admitted into partnership with H. Newmark & Company; +and three years later, on February 27th, he married Miss Harriet, +daughter of J. P. Newmark. Samuel Cohn having died, the associates +then were: Kaspare Cohn, M. J. Newmark, M. A. Newmark and myself. + +On February 1st, 1873, two job printers, Yarnell & Caystile, who had +opened a little shop at 14 Commercial Street, began to issue a +diminutive paper called the _Weekly Mirror_, with four pages but ten +by thirteen inches in size and three columns to the page; and this +miniature news-sheet, falling wet from the press every Saturday, was +distributed free. Success greeted the advertising venture and the +journal was known as the smallest newspaper on the Coast. A month +later, William M. Brown joined the firm, thenceforth called Yarnell, +Caystile & Brown. On March 19th, the publishers added a column to each +page, announcing, rather prophetically perhaps, their intention of +attaining a greatness that should know no obstacle or limit. In +November, the _Mirror_ was transferred to a building on Temple Street, +near the Downey Block, erected for its special needs; and there it +continued to be published until, in 1887, it was housed with the +_Times_. + +Nels Williamson, to whom I have referred, married a native +Californian, and their eldest daughter, Mariana, in 1873 became the +wife of António Franco Coronel, the gay couple settling in one of the +old pueblo adobes on the present site of Bishop & Company's factory; +and there they were visited by Helen Hunt Jackson when she came here +in the early eighties. In 1886, they moved opposite to the home that +Coronel built on the southwest corner of Seventh Street and Central +Avenue. Educated here at the public and the Sisters' schools, Mrs. +Coronel was a recognized leader in local society, proving very +serviceable in the preparation of _Ramona_ and receiving, in return, +due acknowledgment from the distinguished authoress who presented her +with the first copy of the book published. + +Daniel Freeman, a Canadian who came in 1873, was one of many to be +attracted to California through Nordhoff's famous book. After looking +at many ranches, Freeman inspected the Centinela with Sir Robert +Burnett, the Scotch owner then living there. Burnett insisted that the +ranch was too dry for farming and cited his own necessity of buying +hay at thirty dollars a ton; but Freeman purchased the twenty-five +thousand acres, stocked them with sheep and continued long in that +business, facing many a difficulty attendant upon the dry seasons, +notably in 1875-76, when he lost fully twenty-two thousand head. + +L. H. Titus, who bought from J. D. Woodworth the land in his San +Gabriel orchard and vineyard, early used iron water-pipes for +irrigation. A bold venture of the same year was the laying of iron +water-pipes throughout East Los Angeles, at great expense, by Dr. John +S. Griffin and Governor John G. Downey. About the same time, the +directors of the Orange Grove Association which as we shall later see +founded Pasadena, used iron pipe for conducting water, first to a good +reservoir and then to their lands, for irrigating. In 1873 also, the +Alhambra Tract, then beginning to be settled as a fashionable suburb +of Los Angeles, obtained its water supply through the efforts of B. D. +Wilson and his son-in-law, J. De Barth Shorb, who constructed large +reservoirs near the San Gabriel Mission, piped water to Alhambra and +sold it to local consumers. + +James R. Toberman, destined to be twice rechosen Mayor of Los Angeles, +was first elected in 1873, defeating Cristóbal Aguilar, an honored +citizen of early days, who had thrice been Mayor and was again a +candidate. Toberman made a record for fiscal reform by reducing the +City's indebtedness over thirty thousand dollars and leaving a balance +of about twenty-five thousand in the Treasury; while, at the same +time, he caused the tax-rate during his administration to dwindle, +from one dollar and sixty cents per hundred to one dollar. Toberman +Street bears this Mayor's name. + +In 1873, President Grant appointed Henry Kirk White Bent, who had +arrived in 1868, Postmaster of Los Angeles. + +The several agitations for protection against fire had, for a long +time no tangible results--due most probably to the lack of water +facilities; but after the incorporation of the Los Angeles Water +Company and the introduction of two or three hydrants, thirty-eight +loyal citizens of the town in April organized themselves into the +first volunteer fire company, popularly termed the 38's, imposing a +fee of a dollar a month. Some of the yeomen who thus set the ball +a-rolling were Major Ben C. Truman, Tom Rowan, W. J. Brodrick, Jake +Kuhrts, Charley Miles, George Tiffany, Aaron Smith, Henry T. Hazard, +Cameron E. Thom, Fred Eaton, Matthew Keller, Dr. J. S. Crawford, +Sidney Lacey, John Cashin and George P. McLain; and such was their +devotion to the duty of both allaying and producing excitement, that +it was a treat to stand by the side of the dusty street and watch the +boys, bowling along, answer the fire-bell--the fat as well as the lean +hitched to their one hose-cart. This cart, pulled by men, was known as +the _jumper_--a name widely used among early volunteer firemen and so +applied because, when the puffing and blowing enthusiasts drew the +cart after them, by means of ropes, the two-wheeled vehicle jumped +from point to point along the uneven surface of the road. The first +engine of the 38's, known as Fire Engine No. 1, was housed, I think, +back of the Pico House, but was soon moved to a building on Spring +Street near Franklin and close to the City Hall. + +About 1873, or possibly 1874, shrimps first appeared in the local +market. + +In 1873, the Los Angeles _Daily News_ suspended publication. A. J. +King had retired on the first of January, 1870, to be succeeded by +Charles E. Beane; on October 10th, 1872, Alonzo Waite had sold his +interest and Beane alone was at the helm when the ship foundered. + +To resume the narrative of the _Daily Star_. In July, Henry Hamilton +sold both the paper and the job-printing office for six thousand +dollars to Major Ben C. Truman, and the latter conducted the _Star_ +for three or four years, filling it brimful of good things just as his +more fiery predecessor had done. + +John Lang--"number two"--the cultivator of fruit on what was afterward +Washington Gardens, who established Lang's Station and managed the +sulphur springs and the hotel there, in July killed a bear said to +have been one of the grizzliest grizzlies ever seen on the Coast. Lang +started after Mr. Bruin and, during an encounter in the San Fernando +range that nearly cost his life, finally shot him. The bear tipped the +beam--forbid it that anyone should question the reading of the +scales!--at two thousand, three hundred and fifty pounds; and later, +as gossip had it, the pelt was sold to a museum in Liverpool, England. +This adventure, which will doubtless bear investigation, recalls +another hunt, by Colonel William Butts, later editor of the _Southern +Californian_, in which the doughty Colonel, while rolling over and +over with the infuriated beast, plunged a sharp blade into the +animal's vitals; but only after Butts's face, arms and legs had been +horribly lacerated. Butts's bear, a hundred hunters in San Luis Obispo +County might have told you, weighed twenty-one hundred pounds--or +more. + +Dismissing these bear stories, some persons may yet be interested to +learn of the presence here, in earlier days, of the ferocious wild +boar. These were met with, for a long time, in the wooded districts of +certain mountainous land-tracts owned by the Ábilas, and there wild +swine were hunted as late as 1873. + +In the summer, D. M. Berry, General Nathan Kimball, Calvin Fletcher +and J. H. Baker came to Los Angeles from Indianapolis, representing +the California Colony of Indiana, a coöperative association which +proposed to secure land for Hoosiers who wished to found a settlement +in Southern California. This scheme originated with Dr. Thomas Balch +Elliott of Indianapolis, Berry's brother-in-law and an army surgeon +who had established the first grain elevator in Indiana and whose +wife, now ill, could no longer brave the severe winters of the middle +West. + +Soon after their arrival, Wall Street's crash brought ruin to many +subscribers and the members of the committee found themselves stranded +in Los Angeles. Berry opened a real estate office on Main Street near +Arcadia, for himself and the absent Elliott; and one day, at the +suggestion of Judge B. S. Eaton, Baker visited the San Pasqual +_rancho_, then in almost primeval glory, and was so pleased with what +he saw that he persuaded Fletcher to join Dr. Elliott, Thomas H. Croft +of Indianapolis and himself in incorporating the San Gabriel Orange +Grove Association, with one hundred shares at two hundred and fifty +dollars each. The Association then bought out Dr. J. S. Griffin's +interest, or some four thousand acres in the ranch, paying about +twelve dollars and a half per acre, after which some fifteen hundred +of the choicest acres were subdivided into tracts of from fifteen to +sixty acres each. + +The San Pasqual settlement was thus called for a while the Indiana +Colony, though but a handful of Hoosiers had actually joined the +movement; and Dr. and Mrs. Elliott, reaching Los Angeles on December +1st, 1874, immediately took possession of their grant on the banks of +the Arroyo Seco near the Frémont Trail. On April 22d, 1875, The +Indiana Colony was discontinued as the name of the settlement; it +being seen that a more attractive title should be selected. Dr. +Elliott wrote to a college-mate in the East for an appropriate Indian +name; and _Pasadena_ was adopted as Chippewa for "Crown of the +Valley." Linguists, I am informed, do not endorse the word as Indian +of any kind, but it is a musical name, and now famous and +satisfactory. Dr. Elliott threw all his energy into the cultivation of +oranges, but it was not long before he saw, with a certain prophetic +vision, that not the fruit itself, but the health-giving and charming +qualities of the San Pasqual climate were likely to prove the real +asset of the colonists and the foundation of their prosperity. +Pasadena and South Pasadena, therefore, owe their existence largely to +the longing of a frail Indiana woman for a less rigorous climate and +her dream that in the sunny Southland along the Pacific she should +find health and happiness. + +M. J. Newmark was really instrumental, more than anyone else, in first +persuading D. M. Berry to come to California. He had met Berry in New +York and talked to him of the possibility of buying the Santa Anita +_rancho_, which we were then holding for sale; and on his return he +traveled homeward by way of Indiana, stopping off at Indianapolis in +order to bring Berry out here to see the property. Owing to the high +price asked, however, Berry and his associates could not negotiate the +purchase, and so the matter was dropped. + +Lawson D. Hollingsworth and his wife, Lucinda, Quakers from Indiana, +opened the first grocery at the crossroads in the new settlement, and +for many years were popularly spoken of as Grandpa and Grandma +Hollingsworth. Dr. H. T. Hollingsworth, their son, now of Los Angeles, +kept the Post Office in the grocery, receiving from the Government for +his services the munificent sum of--twenty-five cents a week. + +The summer of 1873 was marked by the organization of a corporation +designed to advance the general business interests of Los Angeles and +vicinity. This was the Chamber of Commerce or, as it was at first +called, the Board of Trade; and had its origin in a meeting held on +August 1st in the old Court-House on the site of the present Bullard +Block. Ex-Governor John G. Downey was called to the chair; and J. M. +Griffith was made Secretary _pro tem_. Before the next meeting, over +one hundred representative merchants registered for membership, and on +August 9th, a constitution and by-laws were adopted, a board of eleven +Directors elected and an admission fee of five dollars agreed upon. +Two days later, the organization was incorporated, with J. G. Downey, +S. Lazard, M. J. Newmark, H. W. Hellman, P. Beaudry, S. B. Caswell, +Dr. J. S. Griffin, R. M. Widney, C. C. Lips, J. M. Griffith and I. W. +Lord, as Directors; and these officers chose Solomon Lazard as the +first President and I. W. Lord as the first Secretary. Judge Widney's +office in the Temple Block was the meeting-place. The Chamber unitedly +and enthusiastically set to work to push forward the commercial +interests of Southern California; and the first appropriation by +Congress for the survey and improvement of San Pedro Harbor was +effected mainly through the new society's efforts. Descriptive +pamphlets setting forth the advantages of our locality were +distributed throughout the East; and steps were taken to build up the +trade with Arizona and the surrounding territory. In this way the +Chamber of Commerce labored through the two or three succeeding years, +until bank failures, droughts and other disasters, of which I shall +speak, threw the cold blanket of discouragement over even so +commendable an enterprise and for the time being its activities +ceased. + +On October 3d, C. A. Storke founded the _Daily and Weekly Herald_, +editing the paper until August, 1874 when J. M. Bassett became its +editor. In a few months he retired and John M. Baldwin took up the +quill. + +In the autumn of 1873, Barnard Brothers set in operation the first +woolen mill here, built in 1868 or 1869 by George Hansen and his +associates in the Canal and Reservoir Company. It was located on the +ditch along the _cañon_ of the Arroyo de Los Reyes--now Figueroa +Street; and for fifteen years or more was operated by the Barnards and +the Coulters, after which it was turned into an ice factory. + +In March of the preceding year, I sent my son Maurice to New York, +expecting him there to finish his education. It was thought best, +however, to allow him, in 1873, to proceed across the ocean and on to +Paris where he might also learn the French language, at that time an +especially valuable acquisition in Los Angeles. To this latter +decision I was led when Zadoc Kahn, Grand Rabbi of Paris and afterward +Grand Rabbi of France, and a brother-in-law of Eugene Meyer, signified +his willingness to take charge of the lad; and for three years the +Grand Rabbi and his excellent wife well fulfilled their every +obligation as temporary guardians. How great an advantage, indeed, +this was will be readily recognized by all familiar with the published +life of Zadoc Kahn and his reputation as a scholar and pulpit orator. +He was a man of the highest ideals, as was proved in his unflinching +activity, with Émile Zola, in the defense and liberation of the +long-persecuted Dreyfus. + +Sometime in December, L. C. Tibbetts, one of the early colonists at +Riverside, received a small package from a friend at Washington, D. +C., after having driven sixty-five miles to Los Angeles to get it; and +he took it out of the little express office without attracting any +more attention than to call forth the observation of the clerk that +some one must care a lot about farming to make so much fuss about two +young trees. "'Tis nothing, says the fool!" The package in question +contained two small orange trees from Bahia, Brazil, brought to the +United States by the Agricultural Department and destined to bestow +upon Tibbetts the honor of having originated the navel orange industry +of California. + +In 1873, Drum Barracks at Wilmington were offered by the Government at +public auction; and what had cost a million dollars or so to install, +was knocked down for less than ten thousand dollars to B. D. Wilson, +who donated it for educational purposes. + +During the winter of 1873-74, the Southern Pacific commenced the +construction of its Anaheim branch; and the first train from Los +Angeles to the thriving, expectant German settlement made the run in +January, 1875. + +Max Cohn, a nephew, arrived in Los Angeles in 1873 and clerked for H. +Newmark & Company for a number of years. In December, 1885, when I +retired from the wholesale grocery business, Max became a full +partner. In 1888, failing health compelled him, although a young man, +to seek European medical advice; and he entered a sanatorium at +Falkenstein, in the Taunus Mountains where, in 1889, he died. + +FOOTNOTE: + +[31] Blown down, in a wind-storm, on the night of April 13th, 1915. + + + + +CHAPTER XXXI + +THE END OF VASQUEZ + +1874 + + +Although a high school had been proposed for Los Angeles as early as +1860, it was not until 1873, during Dr. W. T. Lucky's superintendency +and under his teaching, that high-school courses were inaugurated +here. Then the more advanced students were accommodated in the +schoolhouse on Pound Cake Hill, where the Court-house now stands; and +from this humble beginning the present high-school system of Los +Angeles has been evolved. Later, under Dr. T. H. Rose's leadership, +the grammar departments were removed to the other school buildings and +the High School was conducted as an independent institution. + +In 1874, S. Lazard & Company dissolved, Eugene and Constant Meyer +succeeding, on June 15th, under the firm name of Eugene Meyer & +Company or, as the store was better known, the City of Paris. + +Charles H., or Charley White, long prominent in the passenger +department of the Southern Pacific, entered the service of the Los +Angeles & San Pedro Railroad in 1874, as John Milner's assistant, and +soon became the regular ticket-agent here. After forty years of +invaluable service, he is still with the Southern Pacific occupying +the important position of Chief Clerk of the General Passenger Office. + + [Illustration: Vasquez and his Captors + + (_Top_) D. K. Smith, + William R. Rowland, + Walter E. Rodgers. + + (_Middle_) Albert Johnson, + Greek George's Home, + G. A. Beers. + + (_Bottom_) Emil Harris, + Tibúrcio Vasquez, + J. S. Bryant.] + + [Illustration: Greek George] + + [Illustration: Nicolás Martinez] + +George H. Peck, County Superintendent of Schools between 1874 and +1876, was a Vermonter who came in 1869 and bought five hundred acres +of land near El Monte. On his first visit to the Coast, Peck +handled hay in San Francisco when it was worth two hundred dollars a +ton; then he mined a little; and subsequently he opened the first +public school in Sacramento and the first industrial school in San +Francisco. + +Andrew A. Weinschank, a veteran of the Battle of Vera Cruz who came to +Los Angeles in 1856, died on February 16th, 1874. For a while, he sold +home-made sauerkraut, pickles and condiments, and was one of a +well-known family in the German pioneer group here. Carrie, one of +Weinschank's daughters, married a circus man named Lee who made +periodical visits to Los Angeles, erecting a small tent, at first +somewhere in the neighborhood of the present _Times_ Building, in +which to conduct his show. Later, Polly Lee became a rider in the +circus and with her father electrified the youth of the town when Lee, +in the character of _Dick Turpin_, and mounted on his charger, _Black +Bess_, carried off the weeping Polly to his den of freebooters. A son, +Frank A. Weinschank, was a pioneer plumber. + +In the early seventies, while the Southern Pacific Railway was +building from San Francisco to San José, some twelve or fifteen +bandits, carousing at a country dance in the Mexican settlement, +Panamá (about six miles south of Bakersfield) planned to cross the +mountains and hold up the pay-car. They were unsuccessful; whereupon, +they turned their attention to the village of Tres Pinos, robbed +several store-keepers and killed three or four men. They were next +heard of at little Kingston, in Tulare County, where they plundered +practically the whole town. Then they once more disappeared. + +Presently various clues pointed to the identity of the chief _bandido_ +as one Tibúrcio Vasquez, born in Monterey in the thirties, who had +taken to the life of an outlaw because, as he fantastically said, some +_Gringos_ had insolently danced off with the prettiest girls at +_fandangos_, among them being his sweetheart whom an American had +wronged. With the exception of his Lieutenant, Chavez, he trusted no +one, and when he moved from place to place, Chavez alone accompanied +him. In each new field he recruited a new gang, and he never slept in +camp with his followers. + +Although trailed by several sheriffs, Vasquez escaped to Southern +California leading off the wife of one of his associates--a bit of +gallantry that contributed to his undoing, as the irate husband at +once gave the officers much information concerning Vasquez's life and +methods. One day in the spring of 1874, Vasquez and three of his +companions appeared at the ranch of Alessandro Repetto, nine miles +from town, disguised as sheep-shearers. The following morning, while +the inmates of the ranch-house were at breakfast, the highwaymen +entered the room and held up the defenceless household. Vasquez +informed Repetto that he was organizing a revolution in Lower +California and merely desired to borrow the trifling sum of eight +hundred dollars. Repetto replied that he had no money in the house; +but Vasquez compelled the old man to sign a check for the sum +demanded, and immediately dispatched to town a boy working for +Repetto, with the strict injunction that if he did not return with the +money alone, and soon, his master would be shot. + +When the check was presented at the Temple & Workman Bank, Temple, who +happened to be there, became suspicious but could elicit from the +messenger no satisfactory response to his questions. The bank was but +a block from the Courthouse; and when Sheriff Rowland hurriedly came, +in answer to a summons, he was inclined to detain the lad. The boy, +however, pleaded so hard for Repetto's life that the Sheriff agreed to +the messenger's returning alone with the money. Soon after, Rowland +and several deputies started out along the same trail; but a lookout +sighted the approaching horsemen and gave the alarm. Vasquez and his +associates took to flight and were pursued as far as Tejunga Pass; but +as the cutthroats were mounted on fresh horses, they escaped. Even +while being pursued, Vasquez had the audacity to fleece a party of men +in the employ of the Los Angeles Water Company who were doing some +work near the Alhambra Tract. The well-known Angeleño and engineer in +charge, Charles E. Miles, was relieved of an expensive gold watch. + +In April, 1874, Sheriff Rowland heard that Vasquez had visited the +home of "Greek George"--the Smyrniot camel-driver to whom I have +referred--and who was living about ten miles from Los Angeles, near +the present location of Hollywood. Rowland took into his confidence D. +K. Smith and persuaded him to stroll that way, ostensibly as a +farmer's hand seeking employment; and within two weeks Smith reported +to Rowland that the information as to Vasquez's whereabouts was +correct. Rowland then concluded to make up a _posse_, but inasmuch as +a certain element kept Vasquez posted regarding the Sheriff's +movements, Rowland had to use great precaution. Anticipating this +emergency, City Detective Emil Harris--four years later Chief of +Police--had been quietly transferred to the Sheriff's office; in +addition to whom, Rowland selected Albert Johnson, Under Sheriff; B. +F. Hartley, a local policeman; J. S. Bryant, City Constable; Major +Henry M. Mitchell, an attorney; D. K. Smith; Walter Rodgers, +proprietor of the Palace Saloon; and G. A. Beers, a correspondent of +the _San Francisco Chronicle_. All these were ordered to report, one +by one with their horses, shortly after midnight, at Jones's Corral on +Spring Street near Seventh. Arms and ammunition, carefully packed, +were likewise smuggled in. Whether true or not that Vasquez would +speedily be informed of the Sheriff's whereabouts, it is certain that, +in resolving not to leave his office, Rowland sacrificed, for the +public weal, such natural ambition that he cannot be too much +applauded; not even the later reward of eight thousand dollars really +compensating him for his disappointment. + +By half-past one o'clock in the morning, the eight members of the +_posse_ were all in the saddle and silently following a circuitous +route. At about daybreak, in dense fog, they camped at the mouth of +Nichols's Canyon--two miles away from the house of Greek George--where +Charles Knowles, an American, was living. When the fog lifted, +Johnston, Mitchell, Smith and Bryant worked their way to a point +whence they could observe Greek George's farm; and Bryant, returning +to camp, reported that a couple of gray horses had been seen tied near +the ranch-house. Shortly thereafter, a four-horse empty wagon, driven +by two Mexicans, went by the _cañon_ and was immediately stopped and +brought in. The Mexicans were put in charge of an officer, and about +the same time Johnston came tearing down the ravine with the startling +statement that Vasquez was undoubtedly at Greek George's! + +A quick consultation ensued and it was decided by the _posse_ to +approach their goal in the captured vehicle, leaving their own horses +in charge of Knowles; and having warned the Mexicans that they would +be shot if they proved treacherous, the deputies climbed into the +wagon and lay down out of sight. When a hundred yards from the house, +the officers stealthily scattered in various directions. Harris, +Rodgers and Johnston ran to the north side, and Hartley and Beers to +the west. Through an open door, Vasquez was seen at the breakfast +table, and Harris, followed by the others, made a quick dash for the +house. A woman waiting on Vasquez attempted to shut the officers out; +but Harris injected his rifle through the half-open door and prevented +her. During the excitement, Vasquez climbed through a little window, +and Harris, yelling, "There he goes!" raised his Henry rifle and shot +at him. By the time Harris had reached the other side of the house, +Vasquez was a hundred feet away and running like a deer toward his +horse. In the meantime, first Hartley and then the other officers used +their shotguns and slightly wounded him again. Vasquez then threw up +his hands, saying: "Boys, you've done well! but I've been a damned +fool, and it's my own fault!" The identity of the bandit thus far had +not been established; and when Harris asked his name, he answered, +"Alessandro Martinez."[32] In the meantime, captors and prisoner +entered the house; and Vasquez, who was weakened from his wounds, sat +down, while the young woman implored the officers not to kill him. At +closer range, a good view was obtained of the man who had so long +terrorized the State. He was about five feet six or seven inches in +height, sparely built, with small feet and hands--in that respect by +no means suggesting the desperado--with a low forehead, black, coarse +hair and mustache, and furtive, cunning eyes. + +By this time, the entire _posse_, excepting Mitchell and Smith (who +had followed a man seen to leave Greek George's), proceeded to search +the house. The first door opened revealed a young fellow holding a +baby in his arms. He, the most youthful member of the organization, +had been placed on guard. There were no other men in the house, +although four rifles and six pistols, all loaded and ready for use, +were found. Fearing no such raid, the other outlaws were afield in the +neighborhood; and being warned by the firing, they escaped. One of +Vasquez's guns, by the way, has been long preserved by the family of +Francisco Ybarra and now rests secure in the County Museum. + +Underneath one of the beds was found Vasquez's vest containing Charley +Miles's gold watch, which Harris at once recognized. The prisoner was +asked whether he was seriously hurt and he said that he expected to +die, at the same time admitting that he was Vasquez and asking Harris +to write down some of his bequests. He said that he was a single man, +although he had two children living at Elizabeth Lake; and he +exhibited portraits of them. He protested that he had never killed a +human being, and said that the murders at Tres Pinos were due to +Chavez's disobedience of orders. + +The officers borrowed a wagon from Judge Thompson--who lived in the +neighborhood--into which they loaded Vasquez, the boy and the weapons, +and so proceeded on their way. When they arrived near town, Smith and +Mitchell caught up with them. Mitchell was then sent to give advance +notice of Vasquez's capture and to have medical help on hand; and by +the time the party arrived, the excitement was intense. The City +Fathers, then in session, rushed out pellmell and crowds surrounded +the Jail. Dr. K. D. Wise, Health Officer, and Dr. J. P. Widney, County +Physician, administered treatment to the captive. Vasquez, in irons, +pleaded that he was dying; but Dr. Widney, as soon as he had examined +the captive, warned the Sheriff that the prisoner, if he escaped, +would still be game for a long day's ride. Everybody who could, +visited him and I was no exception. I was disgusted, however, when I +found Vasquez's cell filled with flowers, sent by some white women of +Los Angeles who had been carried away by the picturesque career of the +_bandido_; but Sheriff Rowland soon stopped all such foolish +exuberance. + +Vasquez admitted that he had frequently visited Mexicans in Los +Angeles, doing this against the advice of his lieutenant, Chavez, who +had warned him that Sheriff Rowland also had good friends among the +Mexicans. + +Among those said to have been in confidential touch with Vasquez was +Mariano G. Santa Cruz, a prominent figure, in his way, in Sonora Town. +He kept a grocery about three hundred feet from the old Plaza Church, +on the east side of Upper Main Street, and had a curiously-assorted +household. There on many occasions, it is declared, Vasquez found a +safe refuge. + +Five days after the capture, Signor Repetto called upon the prisoner, +who was in chains, and remarked: "I have come to say that, so far as +_I_ am concerned, you can settle that little account with God +Almighty!" Vasquez, with characteristic flourishes, thanked the +Italian and began to speak of repayment, when Repetto replied: "I do +not expect that. But I beg of you, if ever you resume operations, +never to visit _me_ again." Whereupon Vasquez, placing his hand +dramatically upon his breast, exclaimed: "Ah, Señor, I am a cavalier, +with a cavalier's heart!"--_¡Señor Repetto, yo soy un caballero, con +el corazón de un caballero!_ + +As soon as Vasquez's wounds were healed, he was taken by Sheriff +Rowland to Tres Pinos and there indicted for murder. Miller & Lux, the +great cattle owners, furnished the money, it was understood, for his +defense--supposedly as a matter of policy. His attorneys asked for, +and obtained, a change of venue, and Vasquez was removed to San José. +There he was promptly tried, found guilty and, in March, 1875, hanged. + +Many good anecdotes were long told of Vasquez; one of which was that +he could size up a man quickly, as to whether he was a native son or +not, by the direction in which he would roll a cigarette--toward or +away from himself! As soon as the long-feared bandit was in captivity, +local wits began to joke at his expense. A burlesque on Vasquez was +staged late in May at the Merced Theater; and the day the outlaw was +captured, a merchant began his advertisement: "VASQUEZ says that +MENDEL MEYER has the Finest and Most Complete Stock of Dry Goods and +Clothing, etc." + +In the spring of 1874, Charles Maclay, with whom were associated +George K. and F. B. Porter, purchased the San Fernando _rancho_ which +consisted of fifty-six thousand acres and embraced the old Spanish +Mission; and on April 20th, Maclay invited fifty of his friends to a +picnic on his newly-acquired possession. During the day some one +suggested founding a town there. The name of the new settlement was to +be decided by a vote of the participants, and almost unanimously they +selected the title of San Fernando. Within a couple of weeks, hundreds +of lots were sold and the well-known colony was soon on the way to +prosperity. Boring for petroleum commenced in the San Fernando +Mountains about that time, and the new town became the terminus of the +Southern Pacific until the long tunnel was completed. Maclay, who was +a native of Massachusetts, came to California at about the same time +as I did; he was at first a tanner in Santa Cruz, but later came south +and, entering into politics in addition to his other activities, +became State Senator, in which position he attained considerable local +prominence. + +A charming home of the seventies was that of Dr. and Mrs. Shaw, +pioneers situated, as I recollect, on San Pedro Street perhaps as far +south as what is now Adams. They conducted a diversified nursery, +including some orange trees, to obtain which Shaw had journeyed all +the way to Nicaragua. + +Toward the end of April, 1874, General E. F. Beale and Colonel R. S. +Baker, representing themselves and New York capitalists, sought +support for a new railroad project--a single-track line to run from +this city to Shoo-Fly Landing, located, I think, near the present +Playa del Rey and considerably north of San Pedro; where a town, +Truxton--doubtless named after the General's son--was to be founded. +The proposed railway was to be known as the Los Angeles & Truxton +Railroad, with a route from the western part of the city in the +direction of Ciénega and the Rincon de los Bueyes, and along a corner +of the Ballona. The estimated length of the line was fourteen miles, +and the projectors claimed that it would enable the Angeleño to reach +San Francisco within thirty hours, with but one night at sea, and so +add to the comfort, convenience and cheapness of passenger travel. A +new harbor and an additional pier stretching far into the ocean were +to be features of the enterprise; but for some reason or other, +nothing grew out of the movement. As late as the following September, +the promoters were still interviewing councilmen and ranch-owners; but +the Los Angeles & Truxton Railroad remained a mere fancy of the +financier and engineer. + +For a resort that never came to be settled by a community, Truxton +acquired some fame in the early seventies, a rumor also being current +in the summer of 1874 that a fine sea-shore hotel was to be built +there. A clipping before me of the same date even says that "the roads +to Santa Monica, Truxton and Will Tell's are in splendid order--the +former being the finest natural highway on the Pacific Coast." + +F. X. Eberle and wife, Marsetes, came here in 1874, bought six or +seven acres on the corner of San Pedro and the present Eighth streets, +and fitted up the City Gardens, with bowling alleys, swings, lawns and +bowers, erecting there also a picturesque windmill. + +I have expressed the surprise that I felt, when, upon my return from +New York in 1868, I observed that the approaches to the hills were +dotted here and there with little homes. This extension of the +residence area, together with the general lack of street and sidewalk +improvements making travel to and from the town somewhat inconvenient, +suggested, I have no doubt, the need of the first street railroad +here. In 1869, Judge R. M. Widney, together with his associates, +obtained a fifty-year franchise; and by 1874, the little Spring and +Sixth Street line--in time bought by S. C. Hubbell and J. E. +Hollenbeck--had been built and was in operation. It is my recollection +that this line (partly paid for by subscriptions from property owners +along the selected route, each of whom contributed fifty cents per +running foot) began at the Plaza and extended as far out as Pearl and +Sixth streets by way of Main, Spring, First, Fort, Fourth, Hill, Fifth +and Olive; and that it was at the Sixth and Pearl Street terminus that +the almost miniature wooden barn was put up. For the convenience of +the traveling public, two bob-tailed, one-horse cars with a small +platform at each end were used over a single track approximately but +two and a half miles in length; and to permit these cars to pass each +other when they met halfway along the line, a turnout or side-track +was constructed. Many a time at such a siding have I wasted precious +minutes awaiting the arrival of the other, belated car; and the +annoyance of these delays was accentuated when, in winter, the cars +stuck in the mud and often required an hour or more to make the run +from one end of the line to the other. Indeed, the ties having been +laid almost on the surface of the streets, service in bad weather was +sometimes suspended altogether. Each car was in charge of a driver who +also acted as conductor and was permitted to stop as often as he +pleased to take on or let off passengers; and while the single horse +or mule jogged along slowly, the driver, having wound his reins around +the handle of the brake, would pass through the never-crowded vehicle +and take up the fares. Single rides cost ten cents; four tickets were +sold for two bits; and twenty tickets were given for a dollar. So +provincial was the whole enterprise that passengers were expected to +purchase their tickets either at W. J. Brodrick's book store or of Dr. +Fred. P. Howard, the druggist. At a later period, a metal box with a +glass front was installed, into which the passenger was required to +drop his coin or ticket. + +In those modest days, small compensation in public utility +enterprises--if such they could be called--was quite acceptable; and +since the Spring and Sixth Street line had proven rather profitable, +it was not long before W. J. Brodrick, Governor Downey, O. W. Childs, +Dave Waldron, I. W. Hellman and others inaugurated a second +horse-railway. This was popularly known as the Main Street line and +extended straight down Main Street from Temple Block to Washington +Gardens. Much the same kind of equipment was used, one horse or mule +poking along with a bob-tailed car in tow, seating at most eight or +ten passengers; but the fare for adults was ten cents, and for +children five. At night, the motor power and the couple of cars were +housed in a barn at either Main or Washington Street. + +Soon after this line was in running order, it was extended from +Washington south to Jefferson, out Jefferson to Wesley (now +University) Avenue, and thence to the race-track at Agricultural Park; +and there the shed for this section was erected. Still later, a branch +was built out Washington Street to Figueroa, and down Figueroa to +Jefferson, where it connected with the first extension. No formal +transfers were made, transfer-tickets first coming into vogue in Los +Angeles about 1889. Two routes for the cars were arranged, both +running between Temple Block and the race-track. The entire system was +controlled by the Main Street & Agricultural Park Railroad Company, +with which W. J. Brodrick was associated as its first President, +continuing in that office until his death in 1898. In 1877, Colonel +John O. Wheeler, the quondam journalist, was Manager. Later, E. M. +Loricke was Superintendent--the same Loricke who built the line +between Oakland and Berkeley, and was finally killed by one of his own +cars. James Gallagher, who went to work for the Main Street & +Agricultural Park Railroad Company in October, 1888, and who had +charge also of one of the first electric cars run here, is still a +street-car conductor pleasantly known, with the longest record for +service of any conductor in the city. As I have said, travel in winter +was anything but expeditious and agreeable; and it was not uncommon +for passengers, when a car left the track, to get out and assist in +the operation of putting it back. Notwithstanding these drawbacks, +however, the mule-car novelty became popular with some; and one +Spanish girl in particular, whose father amply supplied her with +pocket-money, was a frequent passenger, riding back and forth, from +hour to hour, for months. As late as 1887, there were no cars before +six o'clock in the morning or after ten o'clock at night; and in that +same year, serious complaint was made that, despite a city ordinance +forbidding any street railway company to carry more than forty persons +in a car drawn by a single horse, the ordinance was shamefully +disregarded. Another regulation then frequently disobeyed was supposed +to limit smoking to the rear end of street cars. + +The same year, D. V. Waldron bought about thirty-five acres on the +southwest corner of Main and Washington streets, soon known as the +Washington Gardens, later Chute's Park. These Gardens, among the most +popular pleasure resorts here, were served by the Main Street cars +which ran direct to the gate. In addition to a Sunday afternoon +variety show that held forth in a small pavilion and secured most of +its talent from Wood's Opera House, there was also dancing for those +who wished to indulge. I may add that this so-called opera house was +nothing more than a typical Western song and dance resort, the gallery +being cut up into boxes where the actresses, between the acts, mingled +with the crowd. Patrons indulged in drinking and smoking; and the bar +in front did a thriving business. An insignificant collection of +animals--one of which, an escaping monkey, once badly bit +Waldron--attracted not only the children, but their elders as well; +and charmingly-arranged walks, amid trees and bowers, afforded +innocent and healthful means of recreation. Waldron later went to +Alaska, where a tragic death closed his career: alone and in want, he +was found, in May, 1911, dead in his hut. + +Waldron and Eberle's prosperity may have influenced George Lehman's +fortunes; but however that was, he always maintained his popularity. +Many a joke was cracked at his expense; yet everybody had a good word +for him. Here is a newspaper note of '74: + + Round House George is making great improvements in his + property at Fort and Sixth streets. He has already, at + great expense, _set out a post and whitewashed a cactus + plant_! + +The popularity of the 38's Fire Company soon inspired a second group +of the good men of Los Angeles; and in 1874 or 1875, George Furman, +George E. Gard, Joe Manning, John R. Brierly, Bryce McClellan and +others started Confidence Engine Company No. 2, obtaining a steamer +known as an Amoskeag, which they installed in a building on Main +Street near First, on what was later the site of Childs' Opera House. +It soon developed, as in the days of the San Pedro stages when the +most important feature of the trip was the race to town, that a +conflagration was a matter of secondary importance, the mad dash, in +rivalry, by the two companies being the paramount object. This was +carried to such an extent that the day following a fire was largely +given to discussing the race, and the first thing that everybody +wished to know was, who got there first? Indeed, I believe that many +an alarm was sounded to afford the boys around town a good chance to +stake their bets! All this made the fire-laddies the most popular +groups in the pueblo; and in every public parade for years the +volunteer fire companies were the chief attraction. In 1876, Walter S. +Moore, an arrival of 1875, became the Confidence Engine Company's +Secretary, that being the commencement of his career as a builder of +the department. In 1877, Moore was elected President, occupying that +office till 1883 when he was made Chief Engineer of the Los Angeles +Fire Department. + +On May 13th, 1874, the Los Angeles _Daily Star_ contained the +following reference to Mr. and Mrs. Joseph Newmark and an event of +particular interest to me and my family: + + Mr. Newmark, _père_ and wife, were among the passengers for + San Francisco by the _Senator_ yesterday. This well-known + and highly-esteemed couple go to attend the marriage of + their son, Judge M. J. Newmark, which event occurs on the + seventh proximo, as announced in the Star some time ago. + + [Illustration: Benjamin S. Eaton] + + [Illustration: Henry T. Hazard] + + [Illustration: Fort Street Home, Harris Newmark, Site of Blanchard + Hall; Joseph Newmark at the Door] + + [Illustration: Calle de los Negros (Nigger Alley), about 1870] + + [Illustration: Second Street, Looking East from Hill Street, Early + Seventies] + +Eugene Meyer and myself attended the wedding, leaving Los Angeles by +stage and completely surprising the merry company a few moments before +the groom's father performed the ceremony. The fair bride was Miss +Sophie Cahen, and the occasion proved one of the very agreeable +milestones in an interesting and successful career. The first-born of +this union, Henry M. Newmark, now of Morgan & Newmark, has attained +civic distinction, being President of the Library Board. + +The reason we journeyed north by stage was to escape observation, for +since the steamer-service had been so considerably improved, most of +our friends were accustomed to travel by water. The Pacific Mail +Steamship Company at that time was running the _Senator_, the +_Pacific_, the _Orizaba_ and the _Mohongo_, the latter being the +gunboat sold by the Government at the end of the War and which +remained on the route until 1877; while the line controlled by +Goodall, Nelson & Perkins or Goodall, Nelson & Company had on their +list the _Constantine_, the _Kalorama_, the _Monterey_ and the _San +Luis_, sometimes also running the _California_, which made a specialty +of carrying combustibles. A year later, the _Ancon_ commenced to run +between San Francisco and San Diego, and excepting half a year when +she plied between the Golden Gate and Portland, was a familiar object +until 1884. + +The Farmers & Merchants Bank, on June 15th, 1874, moved to their new +building on the west side of Main Street, opposite the Bella Union. + +On July 25th, 1874, Conrad Jacoby commenced in the old Lanfranco +Building the weekly _Sued-Californische Post_; and for fifteen years +or more it remained the only German paper issued in Southern +California. Jacoby's brother, Philo, was the well-known sharpshooter. + +Henry T. Payne, the early photographer, was probably the first to go +out of town to take views in suburbs then just beginning to attract +attention. Santa Monica was his favorite field, and a newspaper +clipping or two preserve the announcements by which the wet-plate +artist stimulated interest in his venture. One of these reads: + + Mr. Payne will be at Santa Monica next Sunday, and take + photographic views of the camp, the ocean, the surrounding + scenery, and such groups of campers and visitors as may see + fit to arrange themselves for that purpose; + +while another and rather contradictory notice is as follows: + + To make photographs of _moving_ life, such as Mr. Payne's + bathing scenes at Santa Monica next Sunday, _it is + absolutely necessary that everybody should keep perfectly + still_ during the few seconds the plate is being exposed, + for the least move might completely spoil an otherwise + beautiful effect. Santa Monica, with its bathers in nice + costume, sporting in the surf, with here and there an + artistically-posed group basking in the sunshine, ought to + make a beautiful picture. + +As late as 1874, Fort Street--not yet called Broadway--was almost a +plain, except for the presence of a few one-story adobe houses. J. M. +Griffith, the lumberman, put up the first two-story frame +dwelling-house between Second and Third streets, and Judge H. K. S. +O'Melveny the second; shortly after which Eugene Meyer and myself +built our homes in the same block. These were put upon the lots +formerly owned by Burns & Buffum. Within the next two or three years, +the west side of Fort Street between Second and Third was the choicest +residence neighborhood in the growing city, and there was certainly +not the remotest idea at that time that this street would ever be used +for business purposes. Sometime later however, as I was going home one +day, I met Griffith and we walked together from Spring Street down +First, talking about the new County Bank and its Cashier, J. M. +Elliott--whom Griffith had induced four years previously to come to +Los Angeles and take charge of Griffith, Lynch & Company's lumber yard +at Compton. We then spoke of the city's growth, and in the course of +the conversation he said: "Newmark, Fort Street is destined to be the +most important business thoroughfare in Los Angeles." I laughed at +him, but Time has shown the wisdom of Griffith's prophecy. + +The construction of this Fort Street home I commenced in the spring, +contracting with E. F. Keysor as the architect, and with Skinner & +Small as the builders. In September, we moved in; and I shall never +forget a happy compliment paid us the first evening. We had already +retired when the sound of music and merriment made it unmistakable +that we were being serenaded. Upon opening the door, we saw a large +group of friends; and having invited them into the house, the +merrymakers remained with us until the early morning hours. + +In July, 1874, the Los Angeles County Bank was started with a capital +of three hundred thousand dollars, its first directors being R. S. +Baker, Jotham Bixby, George S. Dodge, J. M. Griffith, Vincent A. +Hoover, Jonathan S. Slauson and H. B. Tichenor, with J. M. Elliott as +Cashier. Its first location was the room just rented by the Farmers & +Merchants Bank adjoining the Bella Union, the County Bank's step in +that direction being due, no doubt, to a benevolent desire to obtain +some of its predecessor's business; and in July, 1878, it moved into +the Temple & Workman banking-room, after the latter's failure. For a +while the County Bank did both a commercial and a savings business; +but later it forfeited the savings clause of its charter, and its +capital was reduced to one hundred thousand dollars. In time, John E. +Plater, a well-known Angeleño, became a controlling factor. + +About the end of 1874, Edward F. Spence, who had come to California by +way of the Nicaragua route a year earlier than myself, reached Los +Angeles. In 1884, Spence was elected Mayor on the Republican ticket. +In the course of time, he withdrew somewhat from activity in Los +Angeles and became a heavy investor in property at Monrovia. + +In 1874 or 1875, there appeared on the local scene a man who, like his +second cousin, United States Senator Mallory of Florida, was destined +to become a character of national renown; a man who as such could and, +as a matter of fact, did serve his constituents faithfully and well. +That man was Stephen M. White. He was born in San Francisco a few +weeks before I saw that harbor city, and was, therefore, a Native Son, +his parents having come to the Coast in 1849. While a youth, he was +sent to Santa Clara where, in June, 1871, he graduated from the +well-known college; he read law at Watsonville and later at Santa +Cruz; and having been admitted to the Bar in 1874, he shortly +afterward came to the Southland. + +Arriving in Los Angeles, White studied law with John D. Bicknell, who +afterward took him into partnership; and he soon proved to be a +brilliant lawyer. He was also an orator of the first magnitude; and +this combination of talent made him not only prominent here, but +attracted great attention to him from beyond the confines of city and +county. Standing as a Democrat in 1882, he was elected District +Attorney by a large majority and in that capacity served with +distinction, in the end declining renomination. In 1886 he was elected +State Senator and soon became President of the Senate, and then acting +Lieutenant Governor. After a phenomenal career both in his profession +and in the public service--during which he was one of three counsel +elected by the California Legislature to maintain the Scott Exclusion +Act before the United States Supreme Court and thus conclude the +controversy in the Chae Chan Ping case--he was elected to the United +States Senate, and there, too, his integrity and ability shone +resplendent. + +The zeal with which White so successfully entered the conflict against +C. P. Huntington in the selection of a harbor for Los Angeles was +indefatigable; and the tremendous expenditures of the Southern Pacific +in that competition, commanding the best of legal and scientific +service and the most powerful influence, are all well known. +Huntington built a wharf--four thousand six hundred feet long--at Port +Los Angeles, northwest of Santa Monica, after having obtained control +of the entire frontage; and it was to prevent a monopoly that White +made so hard a fight in Congress in behalf of San Pedro. The virility +of his repeated attacks, his freedom from all contaminating influence +and his honesty of purpose--these are some of the elements that +contributed so effectively to the final selection of San Pedro Harbor. +On February 21st, 1901, Senator White died. While at his funeral, I +remarked to General H. G. Otis, his friend and admirer, that a +suitable monument to White's memory ought to be erected; and on +December 11th, 1908, the statue in front of the County Courthouse was +unveiled.[33] + +Hotel competition was lively in 1874. Charles Knowlton concluded his +advertisement of the Pico House with a large index-finger and the +following assurance: + + The unpleasant odor of gas has entirely disappeared since + the building of the new sewer! + +Hammel & Denker announced for the United States (commonly known as the +U. S.): + + We have all _Spring Beds_ at this Hotel! + +Fluhr & Gerson--the latter long a popular chap about town--claimed for +the Lafayette: + + The Eating Department will be conducted with especial care; + +and this was some of the bait displayed by the Clarendon, formerly the +Bella Union: + + Carriages are kept standing at the door for the use of the + guests, and every effort is being made by COL. B. L. BEAL, + the Present Manager, to render the guests comfortable and + happy. + +A couple of years later, the name of the Clarendon was changed to the +St. Charles; next to which, during the Centennial year, the Grand +Central, pretentious of name though small of dimension, opened with a +splurge. Hammel & Denker continued to manage the United States Hotel. +The Lafayette in time became, first the Cosmopolitan and then the St. +Elmo. + +Octavius Morgan, a native of the old cathedral town of Canterbury, +England, came to Los Angeles in 1874 and associated himself with the +architect, E. F. Keysor, the two forming the firm of Keysor & Morgan. +They were charter members of the Southern California Architects +Association, and for many years Morgan and his associates have largely +influenced the architectural styles of Los Angeles. + +A really picturesque old-timer even now at the age of nearly seventy, +and one who, having withstood the lure of the modern automobile, is +still daily driving a "one-hoss" buggy to the office of the Los +Angeles Soap Company, is J. A. Forthman. In 1874, he brought a small +stock of groceries from San Francisco and started a store at what is +now Sixth and Olive streets; but at the end of three months, having +sold out at a loss, he bought a quarter interest in a little soap +plant conducted by C. W. Gibson. Soon thereafter, vats and fat were +moved to their present site on First Street. In 1875, W. B. Bergin and +in 1879, Gideon Le Sage joined Forthman and Gibson; and in 1887, the +latter sold out to his associates. J. J., a brother of W. B. Bergin, +was added to the force in 1895. For many years the concern dealt in +hides, and this brought us into close business relations. I have +referred to the death of four children. Edith, a child of six, was +taken from us on October 15th, 1874. + +While William F. Turner, son of the miller, was busy in his little +store near the Puente Mills about three miles from El Monte, on the +third of June, 1874, a Californian named Romo, who lived at Pio Pico's +_Ranchito_, entered and bought some goods, also asking to be shown a +pair of boots. Turner stooped to reach the articles, when the stranger +drew a pruning-knife across his throat. In defense, the storekeeper +caught hold of the sharp blade with both hands and thereby crippled +himself for the rest of his days. + +Turner had been in the habit of closing before dark on account of the +rough element near by; and when he did not return home at the +accustomed hour, Mrs. Turner, taking with her a little five-shooter, +set out to find him and arrived in the midst of the murderous assault. +Her pistol missed fire, but she succeeded in seizing the assassin and +dragging him away from her husband; after which, the Mexican shot her +just as Turner, bleeding, fell in the road. The explosion aroused a +neighbor who reached the scene after Romo had fled with some +boots--mostly for one foot!--and seventy dollars in cash. + +When the news passed from mouth to mouth in El Monte, a _posse_ +started out to hunt for the Mexican; but after two days' unsuccessful +search, they gave up the job. Then Fred Lambourn, who had a share in +Turner's business, rushed in on Jake Schlesinger, shouting excitedly, +"By God, Jake, I know where the fellow is!" and Jake and others +responded by saddling their horses and hurrying to a rendezvous at +Durfee's farm. The party of nineteen, including John Broaded and Bill +Cooper, broke up into divisions of one or two and in time found +themselves wading in and out of the San Gabriel River and the Puente +Creek. Soon old Dodson spied their quarry floundering across stream; +and when Schlesinger took a pop at him, the culprit cried out, "Don't +shoot!" and agreed to come ashore. Of the money stolen, all but a few +dollars was found on the prisoner; nevertheless, the captors told him +that, as soon as Turner should identify him, he would be hung and that +there was not much time for foolishness. Romo said that he had +assaulted the storekeeper in order to get money with which, on the +following Sunday, to marry; that his immediate need was a cigar; and +that, if he must die, he would like to have his friends notified, that +they might bury him. Jake handed the doomed man his only weed; and +soon after, five or six masked men rode up and announced that they +would care for the criminal. Then they drove under a tree on the bank +of the river and there, in short order, the cutthroat was hanged. + +Pio Pico soon heard of the lynching and sent Jake and the El Monte +boys word that he would come over and "kill the whole damned lot" of +them; in reply to which, El Monte forwarded to the last of the Mexican +governors a cordial invitation to come, at the same time pledging to +receive him in true California style--with due hospitality and warmth. +This was contemporaneous with the Vasquez excitement, and Romo was +probably bent on imitating the outlaw. + +FOOTNOTES: + +[32] Not the Spanish Alejandro; a variation doubtless suggested by the +Italian Repetto's forename. + +[33] Executive Committee of the Memorial Fund: M. P. Snyder, Chairman; +Joseph Scott, Secretary; James C. Kays, Treasurer; F. W. Braun, A. B. +Cass, R. F. Del Valle, I. B. Dockweiler, W. J. Hunsaker, M. H. Newmark +and H. G. Otis. + + + + +CHAPTER XXXII + +THE SANTA ANITA _RANCHO_ + +1875 + + +Until near the end of the seventies, there was very little done toward +the laying of sewers, although the reader will remember that a private +conveyor connected the Bella Union with the _zanja_ running through +Mellus's Row. Los Angeles Street from First to Second, in 1873, had +one of brick and wood; and in 1875, a brick sewer was built from the +corner of Main and Arcadia streets down to Winston and thence to Los +Angeles Street. It must have been in the early seventies that a wooden +sewer was constructed on Commercial Street from Los Angeles to +Alameda, and another on New High Street for about one block. In 1879, +one of brick was laid from Los Angeles and Commercial as far north as +Arcadia, and connecting with the Main Street sewer. At about the same +time, vitrified clay was used on a portion of Temple Street. My +impression is that there was no _cloaca_ laid on Spring Street until +after 1880, while it was still later that Fort, Hill and Olive streets +were served. As late as 1887, Hope Street had no sewer and very little +conduit-building, if any, had been undertaken south of Seventh or west +of Flower. + +In January, 1875, the Commercial Bank, that was to change five years +later into the First National, began business. Most of the +incorporators were San Diego men--among them being Captain Henry +Wilcox--although four--L. J. Rose, S. H. Mott, R. M. Town and Edward +Bouton--were from Los Angeles. M. S. Patrick, of Chicago, was +President; and Edward F. Spence was Cashier. Their room was on Main +Street between Commercial and Requena. J. E. Hollenbeck, who was +succeeded by Spence, was the first President of the National Bank. J. +M. Elliott, made Cashier in 1885, has for years well filled the office +of President. A pillar of strength in this institution is +Vice-president Stoddard Jess. + +Captain Wilcox, owner of the Colorado Steam Navigation Company, who +finally sold out to the Pacific Mail Steamship Company, brought to +California, on his own vessel in 1848, the first light-houses. He +married Señorita María Antónia Arguello, the granddaughter of an early +Governor of California. One of his daughters became the wife of +Lieutenant Randolph Huntington Miner, and another married Lieutenant +J. C. Drake. Captain Wilcox had induced E. F. Spence to come from San +Diego to Los Angeles, and thereby gave a decided impetus to the +starting of the Commercial Bank. + +Milton Lindley, formerly an Indiana saddle-maker and Treasurer of Los +Angeles County in 1879, arrived here in 1875, accompanied by Walter, +the physician; Henry, the banker, who settled at Whittier; Albert, an +attorney; and Miss Ida B., a teacher. In the eighties, he was twice +Supervisor. Dr. Walter Lindley, once a Minnesota schoolmaster, so soon +established himself that in 1878 he was elected health officer and, in +1880, a member of the Board of Education. The following year, he was +President of the County Medical Society. With Dr. Widney, he +contributed to the literature setting forth California's natural +attractions; and with his brother-in-law, Dr. John R. Haynes, he took +a leading part in organizing the California Hospital. Both Lindley and +Haynes have identified themselves with many other important local +institutions and movements. + +Madame Caroline Severance, already distinguished as the founder, in +1868, of the first woman's club in America--the New England, of +Boston--took up her residence in Los Angeles in 1875 and soon made her +home, _El Nido_, the center of many notable sociological and +philanthropic activities. Especially active was she in promoting the +free kindergarten, working in coöperation with Mrs. Grover Cleveland +and Kate Douglas Wiggin, the California author who was her _protégée_ +and resided for some time at _El Nido_ when she was first becoming +famous as a story-writer. + +On March 27th, the _Weekly Mirror_ was again enlarged and a +subscription rate of one dollar a year was charged. By the beginning +of 1876, a bindery was established in connection with the printery; +and a Potter cylinder press--one of the first operated west of the +Rockies--was installed. + +E. J. Baldwin bought the Santa Anita _rancho_, in April, from H. +Newmark & Company--a transaction recalled thirty-eight years later +when, in 1913, the box which had been sealed and placed in the +corner-stone of the Trinity Methodist Episcopal Church, at about the +time of the sale, was brought forth from its long burial. Baldwin had +just sold his controlling interest in the Ophir mine of the Comstock +district for five million, five hundred thousand dollars. In the same +year, we purchased of the Vejar estate the splendid vineyard of fifty +acres commencing at Washington Street, on the south and a little east +of Main Street, and taking in many important sections of to-day; +selling it, in the early eighties, to Kaspare Cohn who, in turn, +disposed of it during the boom of that decade. George Compère, +somewhat noted as a local entomologist, cared for this vineyard while +we owned it. Baldwin died on March 1st, 1909. + +The sale of the Santa Anita is not without an incident or two, +perhaps, of exceptional interest. On "Lucky" Baldwin's first visit, he +offered us one hundred and fifty thousand dollars for the property; +but learning that we wanted two hundred thousand dollars, he started +off in a huff. Then Reuben Lloyd, the famous San Francisco attorney +who accompanied him, said on reaching the sidewalk, "Lucky, go back +and buy that ranch, or they'll raise the price on you!" and Baldwin +returned, carrying under his arm a tin-box (containing several million +dollars) from which he drew forth twelve thousand, five hundred, +tendering the same as a first payment. + +One can hardly refer to Baldwin without recalling H. A. Unruh, in the +late sixties in the employ of the Central Pacific. It is my impression +that I first met him at the Baldwin Hotel in San Francisco. This +meeting may have occurred nearly thirty-five years ago; and after his +removal to the Santa Anita Ranch, where he took charge of Baldwin's +interests in the Southland, he transacted a large amount of business +with H. Newmark & Co. In 1887, Unruh was also in partnership at La +Puente with a man named Carroll, the firm advertising as "Agents for +Baldwin's Grain Warehouse, Wells Fargo & Co.'s Express and +Postmaster." When Baldwin died, his will named Unruh executor; Bradner +W. Lee being the attorney. + +Ravenna, on the Southern Pacific, was a town of the middle seventies, +at whose start James O'Reilly, an Irishman of medium build, with +reddish hair and a pug nose decidedly indented at the bridge, turned +up with a happy-go-lucky air. Always slovenly, he wore a big, black +slouch hat on the back of his head, as well as a good-natured +expression, in days of prosperity, on his comical face. He had a +grocery, famed for a conglomeration of merchandise not at all improved +by age and hard usage; and this he sold to a none too fastidious +clientele. He also cooked for himself, bragging that he was +sufficiently adroit to throw a slapjack up the chimney and catch it in +the pan, _outside the shanty_ on its flop or turn! When Jim took to +working a couple of claims known as the New York and Parnell Mines, +his tribulations began: he spent more in the development of his +property than he ever recovered, and claim-jumpers bothered him to +death. In truth, once ascribing debatable motives to a man prowling +there, he took aim at the intruder and--shot off an ear! Later, he +married; but his wife soon divorced him. In time, his troubles +affected his mind; and having lost everything and come to fancy +himself an alchemist, he would sit for hours in the burning sun (his +temples plastered with English mustard) industriously stirring a +pestle and convinced that he could bring about a transmutation of the +mortarful of mud. In the end, this good-natured Son of Erin was one +day found dead in his little shanty. + +J. A. Graves arrived in Los Angeles on June 5th and soon entered the +office of Brunson & Eastman, lawyers. The following January he was +admitted to practice before the Supreme Court and then became a member +of the firm of Brunson, Eastman & Graves, dissolved in 1878. +Practicing alone for a couple of years, Graves, in 1880, formed a +partnership with J. S. Chapman. On the dissolution of this firm, in +1885, Graves joined, first H. W. O'Melveny and then J. H. Shankland; +Graves, O'Melveny & Shankland continuing until January, 1904. On June +1st, 1903, Graves became Vice-president of the Farmers & Merchants +National Bank. In the fall of 1879, the young attorney married Miss +Alice H., daughter of J. M. Griffith, and for nine years they lived at +the corner of Fort and Third streets. In 1888 they removed to +Alhambra, where they still live. In 1912, Graves published some +entertaining reminiscences entitled, _Out of Doors California and +Oregon_. + +Colonel W. E. Morford, a native of New Jersey and, late in the +eighties, Superintendent of Streets, returned to Los Angeles in 1875, +having previously been here. Morford had been assistant to Captain +Sutter; and when he left San Francisco on March 14th, 1849, to return +East, he carried the first gold taken from the diggings in the +exciting era of 1848. This gold was sent by Frank Lemon, a member of +Stevenson's Regiment, to his brother William, a partner of John +Anderson, the New York tobacco merchant; and Morford liked to tell +how, when the strange find was displayed on August 22d, in a little +window of the well-known jewelry store of Benedict at 7 Wall Street +near a high-hatted guard, the narrow thoroughfare was soon beyond hope +of police control, thousands of curious, excited people struggling to +get a glimpse of the California treasure. + + [Illustration: Round House, with Main Street Entrance] + + [Illustration: Spring Street Entrance to Garden of Paradise] + + [Illustration: Temple Street, Looking West from Broadway, about 1870] + + [Illustration: Pico House, soon after Completion] + +Moses Langley Wicks was a Mississippian who for some years had a law +office at Anaheim until, in 1877 or 1878, he removed to Los Angeles +and soon became an active operator in real estate. He secured from +Jonathan S. Slauson--who organized the Azusa Land and Water Company +and helped lay out the town--the Dalton section of the San José +Ranch. Wicks was also active in locating the depot of the Santa Fé +Railroad, carrying through at private expense the opening of Second +Street from Main almost to the river. A brother, Moye Wicks, long an +attorney here, later removed to the State of Washington. + +Southern California was now prospering; in fact, the whole State was +enjoying wonderful advantages. The great Comstock mines were at the +height of their prosperity; the natural resources of this part of the +country were being developed; land once hard to sell, at even five +dollars an acre, was being cut up into small tracts; new hamlets and +towns were starting up; money was plentiful and everybody was happy. + +About this time my brother, J. P. Newmark, and I made a little tour, +visiting Lake Tahoe--an unusual trip in that day--as well as the mines +of Nevada. Virginia City, Gold Hill and other mining-camps were the +liveliest that I had ever seen. My friend, General Charles Forman, was +then Superintendent of the Overman and Caledonia Mines, and was +engaged in constructing a beautiful home in Virginia City. After the +collapse of the Nevada boom in the early eighties, he transported this +house to Los Angeles, at a freight expense of eleven hundred and +thirty-five dollars and a total cost of over six thousand, and located +it on ten acres of land near the present site of Pico and Figueroa +streets, where Mr. and Mrs. Forman, still residents of Los Angeles, +for years have enjoyed their home. + +Miners were getting high wages and spending their money lavishly, +owners of buildings in Virginia City receiving from four to eight per +cent. a month on their investments. W. C. Ralston, President of the +Bank of California at San Francisco, was largely responsible for this +remarkable excitement, for he not only lent money freely but he lent +it regardless of conservative banking principles. He engaged in +indiscriminate speculation, for a time legitimatizing illegitimacy, +and people were so incited by his example that they plunged without +heed. All of Nevada's treasure was shipped to San Francisco, whose +prosperity was phenomenal. From San Francisco the excitement spread +throughout the State; but these conditions, from the nature of things, +could not endure. From Bull to Bear is but a short step when the +public is concerned, and it happened accordingly, as it so frequently +does, that the cry of "Save yourself, if you can!" involved California +in a general demoralization. One day in October, 1875, when Ralston's +speculation had indeed proven disastrous, the Bank of California +closed its doors; and a few days after this, Ralston, going a-swimming +in the neighborhood of the North Beach at San Francisco, was +drowned--whether a suicide or not, no one knows. In the meantime, the +recessional frenzy extended all over the State, and every bank was +obliged to close its doors. Those of Los Angeles were no exception to +the rule; and it was then that Temple & Workman suspended. I. W. +Hellman, who was on a European trip at the time, forthwith returned to +Los Angeles, re-opened the doors of the Farmers & Merchants Bank and +resumed business just as if nothing had happened. Following this +panic, times became dreadfully bad; from greatest prosperity, we +dropped to the depths of despair. Specie disappeared from circulation; +values suffered, and this was especially true of real estate in +California. + +Temple & Workman's Bank, for reasons I have already specified, could +not recover. Personally, these gentlemen stood well and had ample +resources; but to realize on these was impossible under conditions +then existing. They applied to E. J. Baldwin, a Monte Cristo of that +period, for a loan. He was willing to advance them two hundred and ten +thousand dollars, but upon two conditions: first, that they would give +him a blanket-mortgage on their combined real estate; secondly, that +their intimate friend, Juan Matías Sanchez, would include in the +mortgage his splendid tract consisting of twenty-two hundred acres of +the finest land around the Old Mission. Sanchez, who transacted a good +deal of business with H. Newmark & Company, came to me for advice. I +felt convinced that Temple & Workman's relief could be at best but +temporary, although I am sure that they themselves believed it would +be permanent, and so I strenuously urged Sanchez to refuse; which he +finally promised me to do. So impressive was our interview that I +still vividly recall the scene when he dramatically said: "_¡No quiero +morir de hambre!_"--"I do not wish to die of hunger!" A few days later +I learned, to my deep disappointment, that Sanchez had agreed, after +all, to include his lands. In the course of time, Baldwin foreclosed +and Sanchez died very poor. Temple also, his pride shattered +--notwithstanding his election in 1875 to the County Treasurership +--died a ruined man; and Workman soon committed suicide. Thus ended in +sorrow and despair the lives of three men who, in their day, had +prospered to a degree not given to every man, and who had also been +more or less distinguished. Baldwin bought in most of the land at +Sheriff's sale; and when he died, in 1909, after an adventurous career +in which he consummated many transactions, he left an estate of about +twenty millions. A pathetic reminder of Sanchez and his one-time +prosperity is an _asador_ or meat toaster, from the old Sanchez +homestead, now exhibited at the County Museum. + +In 1874, Senator John P. Jones came south and engaged with William M. +Stewart, his senatorial colleague (once an obscure lawyer in +Downieville, and later a Nevada Croesus), in mining at Panamint, +purchasing all their supplies in Los Angeles. About the same time, +Colonel R. S. Baker, who had shortly before bought the San Vicente +_rancho_, sold a two-thirds interest in the property to Jones; and one +of their first operations was the laying out of the town of Santa +Monica. After the hotel and bath-houses had been built, an auction +sale of lots took place on July 16th, 1875, and was attended by a +large number of people, including myself; prospective buyers coming +from as far as San Francisco to compete with bidders from the +Southland. Tom Fitch, already known as the "Silver-tongued Orator," +was the auctioneer and started the ball rolling with one of his most +pyrotechnical efforts. He described the place about to be founded as +"The Zenith City by the Sunset Sea," and painted a gorgeous vista of +the day when the white sails of commerce would dot the placid waters +of the harbor, and the products of the Orient would crowd those of +the Occident at the great wharves that were to stretch far out into +the Pacific! + +Then Tom turned his attention and eloquence to the sale of the lots, +which lay along Ocean Avenue, each sixty by one hundred and fifty feet +in size. Calling for a bid, he announced the minimum price of three +hundred dollars for sites along the ocean front. Several friends--I. +M. Hellman, I. W. Hellman, Kaspare Cohn, Eugene Meyer and M. J. +Newmark--had authorized me to act for them; and I put in the first bid +of three hundred dollars. Fitch accepted, and stated that as many more +of these lots as I wanted could be had at the same price; whereupon I +took five, located between Utah and Oregon avenues. These we divided +among us, each taking fifty feet front, with the expectation of +building summer homes; but strange to say, none of us did so, and in +the end we sold our unimproved ground. Some years later, I bought a +site in the next block and built a house which I still occupy each +year in the summer season. + +Three early characters of Santa Monica had much to do with the actual +starting of the place. The one, L. G. Giroux, a Canadian, walked out +to Santa Monica one day in 1875, to get a glimpse of the surf, and +came back to town the owner of a lot on which he soon built the second +permanent house there--a small grocery and liquor shop. In the +eighties, Giroux did good public service as a Supervisor. The second, +Billy Rapp, also came in 1875 and built a small brick house on the +west side of Second Street somewhere between Utah and Arizona avenues. +There, after marrying a German _Frau_, he opened a saloon; and +pleasure-seekers visiting Santa Monica on Sundays long remembered +Billy's welcome and how, on the arrival of the morning train from Los +Angeles, he always tapped a fresh keg of lager. After a while, he +closed his saloon and sold the little building for a town hall. Hard +times in later years rapped at Billy's door, forcing him to work on +the public streets until 1899, when he died. The third settler was +George Boehme, who landed with the first steamer and, within an hour +or two, invested in lots. His family is there to-day. + +Another pioneer Santa Monica family was that of William D. Vawter who, +with his sons, W. S. and E. J., originally members of the Indiana +Colony at Pasadena, removed to the beach in 1875. My relations with +these gentlemen were quite intimate when they conducted a general +merchandise business, that being but one of their numerous +enterprises. Of late years, W. S. Vawter has twice been Postmaster at +Santa Monica. + +In 1875, Paul Kern, who had come to Los Angeles in 1854 and was for +years a baker, set to work to improve a piece of property he owned at +the junction of South Main and Spring streets, between Eighth and +Ninth. At the end of this property he erected a two-story brick +building--still to be seen--in the lower part of which he had a +grocery and a saloon, and in the upper part of which he lived. + +Toward the middle of the seventies, A. Ulyard, the baker, embarked in +the carrying of passengers and freight between Los Angeles and Santa +Monica, sending a four-horse stage from here at half-past seven every +morning, and from Santa Monica at half-past three in the afternoon, +and calling at all four Los Angeles hotels as well as at the private +residences of prospective patrons. One dollar was the fare charged. + +Ralph Leon had the only regular cigar store here in the late sixties, +occupying a part of the United States Hotel; and he was very +prosperous until, unable to tolerate a nearby competitor--George, a +brother of William Pridham--he took up a new stand and lost much of +his patronage. Pridham opened the second cigar store, about 1872 or +1873, next to the hotel; and Leon moved to a shop near the Farmers & +Merchants Bank. + +The names of these early dealers remind me of an interesting custom +especially popular with Captain Thom, Billy Workman and other lovers +of the aromatic weed. Instead of buying cigars by the piece, each of +these inveterate smokers purchased a box at a time, wrote his name on +the lid and left it on a shelf of the dealer; and from time to time +they would slip in by a rear door and help themselves--generally from +their own or, occasionally, from their neighbor's supply. When Leon +discovered that the patron's box was empty, he would have it +refilled. + +In the autumn, Temple & Workman were obliged to suspend. After closing +temporarily, they made an effort to resume, but a run on the Bank +deprived them of all reserves and they finally had to close their +doors. It was the worst of all bank failures here, the creditors +losing everything. Some idea of the disaster may be gathered from the +fact that the Receiver finally sold worthless securities to the extent +of about three hundred thousand dollars for the paltry sum of thirty +dollars. + +On the sixth of November, 1875, Mrs. Joseph Newmark, my wife's mother, +died here surrounded by her nearest of kin. + +During the construction of the Southern Pacific Railway, Sisson, +Wallace & Company, who furnished both labor and supplies, brought M. +Dodsworth to Los Angeles and like many of their employees, he remained +here after the railroad was completed. He engaged in the pork-packing +business, for a long period prospered and built a residence on the +southwest corner of Sixth and Main streets, opening it with a large +reception. He was an honorable man and had a host of friends; but +about 1887, when the Santa Fé had been built to Los Angeles, the large +Eastern packers of hog products sent agents into Southern California +and wiped Dodsworth out of business. + +S. J. Mathes came in 1875, helped enlarge the _Mirror_ and was +identified with the _Times_; but failing health, forcing him to +abandon office work, led him in the eighties to conduct Pullman +excursions, in which undertaking he became a pioneer, bringing +thousands of tourists to the Southland. He also toured the country +with a railway car exhibit known as "California on Wheels," pointing +the way of exploitation to later Chambers of Commerce. + +Toward the end of the year, when attention was being centered on the +coming exposition at Philadelphia, I was asked by the Chamber of +Commerce to assist in editing a report on the resources, conditions, +population, climatic advantages and mercantile interests of the city +and county of Los Angeles. The aim of the Board was to make the report +truthful and helpful, and to distribute it gratis, particularly at +the Centennial. Ben C. Truman wrote about cities, towns and climate; +Judge R. M. Widney reported on railroads; H. McClellan, the steamship +agent (who preceded Willis Parris, the present representative and once +a competent bill-clerk in the employ of H. Newmark & Company) and +brother of Bryce and George F. McClellan, told of ocean navigation; +Dr. J. E. Fulton, of Fulton Wells, discussed farming; Dr. J. P. Widney +described our harbor; D. M. Berry argued for real estate; Governor +Downey presented banks and banking; M. Keller and L. J. Rose treated +of vine culture; J. de B. Shorb looked after semi-tropical fruits and +nuts, and T. A. Garey--himself the owner of a charming place on San +Pedro Street, where his spiritualistic tendencies kept him up at night +awaiting the arrival of spooks--considered other fruits and nurseries; +W. J. Brodrick stated our advance in trades, professions, churches and +societies; E. C. French summed up about stock; Captain Gordon +recounted our prospects for beet culture; while H. D. Barrows and I +prepared data as to the commerce of Southern California. Thus +compactly put together, this booklet certainly led many Easterners to +migrate West and to settle in Los Angeles and vicinity. + +In the early seventies, Grange Stores, brought into existence by a +craze for coöperation, were scattered throughout the State, and Milton +H. La Fetra in February, 1875 helped to organize one here. In time, +this establishment became known, first as Seymour & Company and then +as Seymour, Johnson & Company, their location being on Main Street +near First. + +W. H. Northcraft's activity as an auctioneer began about the middle of +the seventies. For a while, he had an office in Temple Block, but +about 1880 moved to the east side of Los Angeles Street near Requena; +later to the Signoret Building, and still later to the Baker Block. In +1879, Thomas B. Clark, still well known "in the profession," came to +Los Angeles and, marrying Northcraft's daughter, joined his +father-in-law in partnership. C. L. Northcraft, a son, was added to +the firm. Alonzo B. Cass came to Los Angeles in 1888, accompanied by +his brothers, and soon after, as Cass Brothers' Stove Company, they +started a hardware store on Third Street, purchasing some of +Northcraft & Clark's stock of merchandise. A. B. Cass, who served as +President of the Chamber of Commerce in 1901, has freely given of his +time to public movements. As President of the Home Telephone & +Telegraph Company, he has had much to do with their local success. E. +W. Noyes was also a popular, old-time auctioneer, remaining in harness +until he was seventy-five years old or more. + +The mention of these names recalls the auction of past decades, such a +familiar feature of Los Angeles life. In few respects were the methods +of early days at all like those of our own: there were no catalogues, +no neatly-arranged store-rooms and but little expert service; noise +and bluff constituted a good, even important portion of the necessary +auctioneering talent; household effects were usually offered at homes; +horses--and these constituted the objects of most early auctioneering +activities--were trotted up and down Los Angeles Street for display +and sale. + + + + +CHAPTER XXXIII + +LOS ANGELES & INDEPENDENCE RAILROAD + +1876 + + +Once Santa Monica's boom had been launched, the town developed as had +few other suburbs of Los Angeles. Within nine or ten months a thousand +inhabitants pointed with satisfaction to one hundred and sixty houses +and perhaps half as many tents. Senator Jones built a wharf and pushed +to completion the Los Angeles & Independence Railroad; and the road +was opened to the public on Wednesday, December 1st, 1875, with a +depot on San Pedro Street near Wolfskill Lane. Two trains a day were +run--one leaving Los Angeles for Santa Monica at half-past nine in the +morning and another at a quarter after four in the afternoon; the +trains from Santa Monica for Los Angeles departing at half-past seven +in the morning and half-past two in the afternoon. On January 5th, +1876, the Railroad Company offered sixty single commutation tickets +for ten dollars; and a few days later, the conductor and other train +employees appeared in uniform, each wearing on his cap what was then +considered an innovation, the badge of his office. Captain Joseph U. +Crawford was Superintendent and Chief Engineer. + +From the start the Road did a thriving freight business, although +passenger traffic was often interfered with. Early in January, 1876, +for instance, the train from Santa Monica failed to make its +appearance, the engineer having spied a bit of ground suspiciously +soft in the _ciénaga_--locally spelled _ciénega_--refused, despite +the protests of passengers, to proceed! + +There were also inconveniences of travel by steamer such as arose from +the uncertainty whether a vessel running between San Francisco and San +Diego would put in at San Pedro or Santa Monica. According to +conditions, or perhaps through the desire to throw a little trade one +way or the other, the captain might insist on stopping at one port, +while friends had assembled to greet the traveler at the other. A +single car, with such objects of wonder as air brakes and Miller +couplers drew Sunday crowds; and when, about the middle of January, +the Company carried down ten car-loads of people on a single day and +brought them back safely, substantial progress, it was generally felt, +had been made. + +In February, the Santa Monica Land Company was pushing its sales of +real estate, and one of its announcements began with the headlines: + + SANTA MONICA! + The Wonderful Young City and Seaport of + Southern California! + The Future Terminus of the Union & Texas Pacific Railroad! + +the advertisement winding up with the declaration that several hundred +vessels, including the largest boats of the Pacific Mail Steamship +Company, had already loaded and discharged at the wharf in all +weathers! + +My memory is obscure as to just when Senator Jones built his splendid +mansion at the corner of Ocean and Nevada avenues, but I think it was +about 1890. I certainly recollect that it was then considered the most +extensive and elaborate home in the vicinity of Los Angeles. + +Rather late in January, H. Newmark & Company had their first +experience with burglars who scaled the wall behind the store one +Saturday night, cut away enough brick to enable them to throw back the +bolt of the door, then barricaded the front doors by means of crowbars +and proceeded to open the safe, which was of the old Tilton & +McFarland pattern. The face was forced off, but the eight hundred +dollars in the safe remained intact and undisturbed, the burglars +making a total haul of only five dollars. Other merchants also +suffered at this time from the depredations of cracksmen. + +Following this futile attack, we sent for a new safe of the Hall type. +Scarcely had a month elapsed, however, when a second attempt was made +in much the same way. Then the burglars went to work in real earnest +and soon effected an entrance into the money-drawers. But, alas! the +entire contents secured would not have provided half a dozen +_tamales_! This fact, probably, aroused the ire of the rascals, for +they mutilated the front of the prettily-decorated safe before +leaving, and tried to destroy the combination. The best excuse--and +perhaps not such a bad one--that the police had to offer for not +furnishing Los Angeles Street better protection, was that the night +was dark, the street and sidewalks flooded and that a policeman, who +had tried the beat, had been nearly drowned! + +In February, trains on the Los Angeles & Independence Railroad began +to leave Los Angeles at ten o'clock in the morning and five o'clock in +the afternoon, and Santa Monica at eight and four o'clock, the Company +deeming it a sufficient inducement to allow excursionists five or six +hours to bathe, fish or picnic. Round-trip tickets, good for the day +and date only, were sold at a dollar each; and the management reserved +the right, on steamer days, to change the schedule to fit the +sailings. When a fourth passenger coach was added to the equipment, +the Company declared that the accommodations between this city and +Santa Monica were "equal to those on any road along the entire Coast;" +but the high-water mark of effort was reached when it was announced +that the "splendid palace car dubbed _Santa Monica_, which had carried +Senator Jones to Washington," was then being sent south from San +Francisco for the convenience of the Company's patrons. In March, +while the San Pedro Street Railway was being built, another official +announcement said that "in the course of a few days the people of this +city will have the _honor_ and delight of seeing a _palace_ car +standing on a railroad track near the Pico House;" and about the end +of March printer's ink displayed this appeal to the expectant public: + + Go, by all means, to the grand seaside excursion to Santa + Monica on Friday, for among the objects of interest will be + Senator Jones's magnificent new palace-car now being + completed by the tailors (_sic_) which will have three + _salons_, supplied with tables and all the usual comforts, + and two private compartments, the whole sumptuously + furnished and partly upholstered with crimson velvet! + +On February 14th, General Andrés Pico died at his residence, 203 Main +Street, and was buried from his home on the following day. + +On March 1st, work was commenced on the San Pedro Street Railway, +which in time was extended from the Santa Monica station to the Plaza, +_via_ San Pedro, Los Angeles, Arcadia and Sanchez streets. The gauge +was that of the Los Angeles & Independence Railway, thus permitting +freight cars to be hauled to the center of the city; on which account +business men looked upon the new road as a boon. Passenger cars soon +ran from the depot to the Pico House; and as the fare was but five +cents, or thirty tickets for a dollar, this line was rewarded with a +fair patronage. At the end of 1876, four street railways were in +operation here. + +In March, also, two hundred pleasure-seekers, then considered a +generous outpouring, went down to Santa Monica on a single Sunday; and +within the first three months of the year, the Land Company there +gathered in about seventy-three thousand dollars--selling a lot almost +every day. South Santa Monica was then looked upon as the finer part +of the growing town, and many of my friends, including Andrew +Glassell, Cameron E. Thom, General George Stoneman, E. M. Ross, H. M. +Mitchell, J. D. and Dr. Frederick T. Bicknell and Frank Ganahl, bought +sites there for summer villas. + +Micajah D. Johnson, twice City Treasurer, was a Quaker who came here +in 1876. He built at Santa Monica a hotel which was soon burned; and +later he became interested in the colony at Whittier, suggesting the +name of that community. + +In 1876, the City purchased a village hook-and-ladder truck in San +Francisco which, drawn by hand in the vigorous old-fashioned way, +supplied all our needs until 1881. + +In 1876, the Archer Freight and Fare Bill, which sought to regulate +railroad transportation, engrossed the attention of commercial +leaders, and on March 9th, President S. Lazard called together the +Directors of the Chamber of Commerce at the office of Judge Ygnácio +Sepúlveda. Besides President Lazard, there were present R. M. Widney, +W. J. Brodrick, M. J. Newmark, E. E. Hewitt and I. W. Lord. Little +time was lost in the framing of a despatch which indicated to our +representatives how they would be expected to vote on the matter. +Several speeches were made, that of M. J. Newmark focusing the +sentiment of the opposition and contributing much to defeat the +measure. Newmark expressed surprise that a bill of such interest to +the entire State should have passed the Lower House apparently without +discussion, and declared that Southern Californians could never afford +to interfere with the further building of railroads here. Our +prosperity had commenced with their construction, and it would be +suicidal to force them to suspend. + +In a previous chapter I have spoken of the rate--ten dollars per +thousand--first charged for gas, and the public satisfaction at the +further reduction to seven dollars and a half. This price was again +reduced to six dollars and seventy-five cents; but lower rates +prevailing elsewhere, Los Angeles consumers about the middle of March +held a public meeting to combat the gas monopoly. After speeches more +lurid, it is to be feared, than any gas flame of that period, a +resolution was passed binding those who signed to refrain from using +gas for a whole year, if necessary, beginning with the first of April. +Charles H. Simpkins, President of the Los Angeles Gas Company, +retorted by insisting that, at the price of coal, the Company could +not possibly sell gas any cheaper; but a single week's reflection, +together with the specter of an oil-lamp city, led the Gas Company, +on March 21st, to grant a reduction to six dollars a thousand. + +Will Tell was a painter in 1869 and had his shop in Temple Block, +opposite the Court House. Early in 1876 he opened a lunch and +refreshment house at the corner of Fourth Street and Utah Avenue in +Santa Monica, where he catered to excursionists, selling hunting +paraphernalia and fishing tackle, and providing "everything, including +fluids." Down at what is now Playa del Rey, Tell had conducted, about +1870, a resort on a lagoon covered with flocks of ducks; and there he +kept eight or ten boats for the many hunters attracted to the spot, +becoming more and more popular and prosperous. In 1884, however, +raging tides destroyed Tell's happy hunting grounds; and for fifteen +or twenty years, the "King's Beach" was more desert than resort. Tell +continued for a while at Santa Monica and was an authority on much +that had to do with local sport. + +On Sunday, April 9th, the Cathedral of Sancta Vibiana, whose +corner-stone had been laid in 1871 on the east side of Main Street +south of Second, was opened for public service, its architecture +(similar to that of the Puerto de San Miguel in Barcelona, Spain) at +once attracting wide attention. As a matter of fact, the first +corner-stone had been placed, on October 3d, 1869, on the west side of +Main Street between Fifth and Sixth, when it was expected that the +Cathedral was to extend to Spring Street. The site, however (and oddly +enough,) was soon pronounced, "too far out of town," and a move was +undertaken to a point farther north. In more recent years, efforts +have been made to relocate the bishop's church in the West End. A +feature of the original edifice was a front railing, along the line of +the street, composed of blocks of artificial stone made by Busbard & +Hamilton who in 1875 started a stone factory, the first of its kind +here, in East Los Angeles. + +Victor Dol, who arrived here in the Centennial year and became the +Delmonico of his day, kept a high-grade restaurant, known as the +Commercial in the old Downey Block, about one hundred and fifty feet +north of the corner of Spring and Temple streets. The restaurant was +reached through a narrow passageway that first led into an open court +paved with brick, in the center of which a fountain played. Crossing +this court, the interested patron entered the main dining-room, where +an excellent French dinner was served daily at a cost of but fifty +cents, and where the popular _chef_ furnished many of the notable +banquets of his time. Dol also had a number of private dining-rooms, +where the epicures of the period were wont to meet, and for the +privilege of dining in which there was an additional charge. Dol's +Commercial was a popular institution for more than a quarter of a +century. + +Dol then had in his employ an uncle, who was a rather mysterious +individual, and who proved to be a French anarchist. It was said that +his pet scheme for regulating the government of Louis Philippe met +with such scant approval that, one fine day, he found himself in jail. +Escaping in course of time from the anxious and watchful authorities, +he made his way to the outside world and finally located here. After +the Franco-Prussian War of 1870-71, he was supposed to have returned +to his native land, where he once more satisfied his peculiar +propensity for patriotic activity by tearing down and burning, in +company with other so-called Communists, some of the most beautiful +buildings in all Paris. + +In the spring of 1876, Los Angeles boasted of another French +restaurant, a dining place called the Oriental and conducted by a +Frenchman, C. Casson and a German, H. Schmitt. It was on Main Street +opposite the Pico House, and much ado was made of the claim that +everything was "in European style" and that it was "the largest and +most commodious restaurant south of San Francisco." + +Human nature--at least of the feminine type--was much the same, +thirty-five or forty years ago, as it is to-day. Such a conclusion, at +least, the reader may reach after scanning an Easter advertisement of +Miss Hammond, an 1876 milliner who had a little shop at 7 North Spring +Street and who then made the following announcement to those of her +fashion-loving sex: + + Miss Hammond, who has just received a splendid lot of new + styles of hats, bonnets, silks, ribbons, etc., invites the + ladies of Los Angeles to call at her place of business + before purchasing elsewhere. One glance into her + show-window will be enough to project any modern heart into + a state of palpitation. + +Elsewhere I have mentioned the salt works near Redondo's site. Dr. H. +Nadeau (who came here in 1876, had an office in the Grand Central +Hotel and was soon elected Coroner) was once called there and started +with a constable and an undertaker--the latter carrying with him a +rough board coffin for the prospective "subject." Losing their way, +the party had to camp for the night on the plains; whereupon the +Coroner, opening the coffin, crawled in and "slept like a brick!" + +John Edward Hollenbeck, who in 1888 built the Hollenbeck Hotel, +returned to Los Angeles in the spring of 1876--having been here in +1874, when he made certain realty investments--secured land on the +east side of the Los Angeles River, spent a large sum of money for +improvements and soon built a residence exceptionally fine for that +time. And in this beautiful home, in close proximity to Boyle Avenue, +he lived until his death, on September 2d, 1885, at the age of +fifty-six years. Succeeding A. C. Bilicke in 1903, John S. Mitchell, +long a prominent Angeleño, is still controlling this busy hostelry. + +I have spoken of an adobe on ten acres of land I once purchased to +secure water for my flock of sheep. After Hollenbeck had built his +home on Boyle heights, he was so disturbed by a company of Mexicans +who congregated in this adobe that, in sheer desperation, he asked me +in 1882 to sell him the land. I did so, and we agreed upon six hundred +and twenty-five dollars as a price for the entire piece. + +Hollenbeck then made another noteworthy investment. H. C. Wiley owned +a lot, one hundred and twenty feet by one hundred and sixty-five, on +the southeast corner of Fort and Second streets, where he lived in a +small cottage. He had mortgaged this property for six thousand +dollars; but since, under his contract, Wiley was not required to pay +interest, the mortgagee tired of the loan. Hollenbeck bought the +mortgage and made a further advance of four thousand dollars on the +property. He finally foreclosed, but at the same time did the handsome +thing when he gave Mrs. Wiley, a daughter of Andrés Pico, a deed for +the forty feet on Fort Street upon which the cottage stood. These +forty feet are almost directly opposite Coulter's dry goods store. + +So many ranchers had again and again unsuccessfully experimented with +wheat in this vicinity that when I. N. Van Nuys, in 1876, joined Isaac +Lankershim in renting lands from the company in which they were +interested, and in planting nearly every acre to that staple grain, +failure and even ruin were predicted by the old settlers. Van Nuys, +however, selected and prepared his seed with care and the first season +rewarded them with a great harvest, which they shipped to Liverpool. +Thus was inaugurated the successful cultivation of wheat in Southern +California on a large scale. In 1878, the depot of the Southern +Pacific at the corner of Alameda and Commercial streets had become too +small for the Company's growing business, compelling them to buy on +San Fernando Street; and Lankershim and his associates purchased the +old structure from the Company for the sum of seventeen thousand, five +hundred dollars, and there erected a flour mill which they conducted +until the ranch was sold, a few years ago. + +One of the very interesting cases in the Los Angeles courts was that +which came before Judge H. K. S. O'Melveny on May 15th when Mrs. +Eulalia Perez Guillen, one hundred and thirty years old according to +the records of the church at San Gabriel, claimed the right to exhibit +herself at the Centennial Exposition in Philadelphia as a California +curiosity. She was accompanied to court by a daughter, Mariana and +their counsel, F. P. Ramirez; but there was also present another +daughter, Mrs. de White, who brought Attorney Stephen M. White to +assist in opposing the visionary scheme. Mariana admitted that she had +not the means to humor the old lady in her hobby, while Mrs. de White +objected that her mother was in her dotage and could not travel as far +as Philadelphia. The Judge granted the old lady liberty to live with +either daughter, but required of Mariana a bond of five hundred +dollars as a guarantee that she would not take her mother out of the +county. + +On May 17th, William Workman was gathered to his fathers, later being +buried near the little chapel at La Puente, side by side with John +Rowland, his early comrade and life-long friend. + +An early and popular educator here was Miss E. Bengough who, about +1870, had started her "Select School for Young Ladies and Children," +and who on June 5th had one of her "commencements" in the Spring +Street school house. At the beginning of the eighties, the Bengough +school was at No. 3 Third Street. Miss Bengough died, a number of +years ago, after having been for some years at the Hollenbeck Home. + +Glowing descriptions of the Centennial Exposition first attracted the +attention of Madame Helena Modjeska, the Polish lady eventually so +famous, and the presence here of a small Polish colony finally induced +her and her husband, Charles Bozenta Chlapowski, to make the dubious +experiment of abandoning the stimulation of Old World culture and +committing themselves to rustic life near the bee ranch of J. E. +Pleasants in Santiago Cañon. Heaps of cigarettes, books and musical +instruments were laid in to help pass the hours pleasantly; but +disaster of one kind or another soon overtook the idealists who found +that "roughing it" in primeval California suggested a nightmare rather +than a pleasant dream. Forced to take up some more lucrative +profession, Madame Modjeska, in July, 1877, made her _début_ in San +Francisco as _Adrienne Lecouvreur_ and was soon starring with Booth. +This radical departure, however, did not take the gifted lady away for +good; her love for California led her to build, near the site of their +first encampment and in what they called the Forest of Arden, a +charming country home to which she repaired when not before the +footlights. Still later, she lived near Newport. More than one public +ovation was tendered Madame Modjeska in Los Angeles, the community +looking upon her as their own; and I remember a reception to her at +O. W. Childs's home when I had a better opportunity for noting her +unostentatious and agreeable personality. Modjeska Avenue is a +reminder of this artist's sojourn here. + +In June, W. W. Creighton started the _Evening Republican_; but during +the winter of 1878-79 the paper, for lack of support, ceased to be +published. + +Andrew W. Ryan, a Kilkenny Irishman commonly called Andy, after +footing it from Virginia City to Visalia, reached Los Angeles on +horseback and found employment with Banning as one of his drivers. +From 1876 to 1879, he was County Assessor, later associating himself +with the Los Angeles Water Company until, in 1902, the City came into +control of the system. + + + + +CHAPTER XXXIV + +THE SOUTHERN PACIFIC + +1876 + + +Before the completion of the San Fernando tunnel, a journey East from +Los Angeles by way of Sacramento was beset with inconveniences. The +traveler was lucky if he obtained passage to San Fernando on other +than a construction train, and twenty to twenty-four hours, often at +night, was required for the trip of the Telegraph Stage Line's +creaking, swaying coach over the rough road leading to Caliente--the +northern terminal--where the longer stretch of the railroad north was +reached. The stage-lines and the Southern Pacific Railroad were +operated quite independently, and it was therefore not possible to buy +a through-ticket. For a time previously, passengers took the stage at +San Fernando and bounced over the mountains to Bakersfield, the point +farthest south on the railroad line. When the Southern Pacific was +subsequently built to Lang's Station, the stages stopped there; and +for quite a while a stage started from each side of the mountain, the +two conveyances meeting at the top and exchanging passengers. Once I +made the journey north by stage to Tipton in Tulare County, and from +Tipton by rail to San Francisco. The Coast Line and the Telegraph Line +stage companies carried passengers part of the way. The Coast Line +Stage Company coaches left Los Angeles every morning at five o'clock +and proceeded _via_ Pleasant Valley, San Buenaventura, Santa Bárbara, +Guadalupe, San Luis Obispo and Paso de Robles Hot Springs, and +connected at Soledad with the Southern Pacific Railroad bound for San +Francisco by way of Salinas City, Gilroy and San José; and this line +made a speciality of daylight travel, thus offering unusual +inducements to tourists. There was no limit as to time; and passengers +were enabled to stop over at any point and to reserve seats in the +stage-coaches by giving some little notice in advance. + +In 1876, I visited New York City for medical attention and for the +purpose of meeting my son, Maurice, upon his return from Paris. I left +Los Angeles on the twenty-ninth of April by the Telegraph Stage Line, +traveling to San Francisco and thence east by the Central Pacific +Railroad; and I arrived in New York on the eighth of May. My son +returned, June 29th, on the steamer _Abyssinia_; and a few days later +we started for home. While in Brooklyn, on June 4th, I attended +Plymouth Church and heard Henry Ward Beecher preach on "Serve Thy +Master with a Will." His rapid transition from the pathetic to the +humorous, and back to the pathetic, was most effective. + +Our itinerary brought us to the Centennial Exhibition in Philadelphia, +on the Fourth of July; and aside from the peculiar satisfaction at +being present on historic ground upon that anniversary, I recall, with +pleasure, many experiences and impressions new and interesting, +notwithstanding the inconvenience caused by the great crowds. At the +Exhibition, which had a circumference of only three and a half miles, +I saw California's small but very creditable display; and I remember +my astonishment at seeing a man seated before an apparatus, apparently +in the act of printing letters. He was demonstrating an early +typewriter, and I dictated to my wife half a dozen lines which he +rapidly typed upon paper. Of the various nations, the Japanese and the +Chinese attracted me most. Machinery Hall, with its twelve hundred +machines all run by one huge Corliss engine, was as noisy as it was +interesting. The New York _Herald_ and the _Times_ were printed there +daily. In the Art Gallery there was one marble figure so beautifully +draped that a young lady, passing by, said: "Father, why don't they +remove that lace shawl from the statue?" During the evening, on the +balconies of the Union League Club, we enjoyed a torchlight parade +never to be forgotten. + +On our way West we stopped at Salt Lake City; and as we had been +informed that Brigham Young would be at the Opera House that evening, +we attended the performance. I have forgotten the name of the play, +but Rose Eytinge was the star. Brigham sat in his private box with two +of his wives; and as it was a very hot night in July and the building +was packed with people, his wives were both fanning him assiduously +and otherwise contributing to his comfort. The following day we called +at his residence to see him, expecting to renew an acquaintanceship +established years before; but to our regret he was ill and could not +receive us. A few months later, he died. + +Leaving Salt Lake City early in August, we traveled by the Central +Pacific to San Francisco where several days were very pleasantly spent +with my brother and his family, and from there we left for Los +Angeles, taking the Southern Pacific to its terminus at Lang's +Station. Proceeding over the mountain by stage, we arrived at what is +now the south end of the long tunnel and there boarded the train for +this city. + +Among others who went from Los Angeles to the Philadelphia Centennial +was Ben C. Truman. He took with him specimens of choice California +plants, and wrote letters, from various stations on the way, to his +paper, the _Star_. Governor and Mrs. Downey, whom I met in New York in +June, were also at the Exhibition. + +Ben Truman's visit recalls the enterprise of preparing a booklet for +circulation at the exposition setting forth the advantages of Los +Angeles, and the fact that the _Star_ was the first to propose sending +copies of the local newspapers to Philadelphia, at the same time +agreeing to contribute its share. In that connection, it also referred +to a previous, similar experiment, endorsed by Truman, in these words: + + This City has never been so prosperous as when the Chamber + of Commerce sent fifty papers each week for one year of the + _Herald_, _Express_ and _Star_, to the leading hotels and + libraries throughout the country, a movement inaugurated + and carried out by Mr. M. J. Newmark. Those few papers, + distributed where they would do the most good, filled our + hotels and boarding houses, and sent joy to the hearts of + the real estate dealers. It's a most trifling thing to do, + and "there's millions in it." + +Another interesting experiment in early advertising, by means of the +stereopticon, was made in 1876 when the Los Angeles photographer, +Henry T. Payne, exhibited at Philadelphia a fine selection of views +designed to inform the spectator about Southern California and to +attract him hither. Toward the end of May, Payne left for the East, +taking with him a first-class stereopticon and nearly a thousand +lantern slides of the old wet-plate process, the views being the +product of Payne's own skill and labor. + +For some time prior to 1876, the suitable observance here of the +anniversary of the Nation's independence had been frequently +discussed, and when James J. Ayers called a meeting of citizens in the +County Court House, on the evening of April 29th, and another on May +6th, it was decided to celebrate the Fourth of July in a manner worthy +of the occasion. Committees were appointed to arrange the details; and +when the eventful day arrived, the largest throngs in the City's +history assembled to give vent to their patriotism. + +The procession--led by Grand Marshal H. M. Mitchell, assisted by +Marshals Eugene Meyer, Francisco Guirado, John F. Godfrey and Otto von +Ploennies, mounted on the best-groomed steeds of the Fashion +Stables--formed towards ten o'clock and was half an hour in passing +the corner of Temple, Spring and Main streets. The Woods Opera House +Band, the Los Angeles Guard and the Los Angeles Rifleros assisted. The +parade wended its tortuous way from the Aliso Mills in the northeast +to the Round House in the south. + +An interesting feature of the march was the division of Mexican War +Veterans. Forty-two of these battle-scarred soldiers, a number of whom +had become prominent in civic life, lined up, among them General +George Stoneman, Captain William Turner, Dr. J. S. Griffin, Major +Henry Hancock, S. C. Foster, John Schumacher, L. C. Goodwin, D. W. +Alexander and A. W. Timms. Another feature worthy of note was the +triumphal chariot of the French Benevolent Society, in which three +young ladies represented respectively the Goddess of Liberty, France +and America. Fire Engine Company No. 38, Confidence Engine Company No. +2 and the Hook and Ladder Company formed another division, followed by +several societies and secret orders. In one float thirteen young +ladies represented the thirteen original colonies and in another +twenty-five damsels portrayed the rest of the States. There were also +the Forty-niners, the butchers and the other tradesmen; while George +and Martha Washington accompanied the Philadelphia Brewery! + +For this local celebration of the Centennial, streets, public +buildings, stores and private residences were beautifully decorated, +portraits of Washington being everywhere. Hellman, Haas & Company, S. +C. Foy, the Los Angeles Social Club and H. Newmark & Company were +among those who especially observed the day. There was a triple arch +on Main Street, with a center span thirty feet wide and thirty feet +high, and statues of Washington, Grant and others. The railroad depots +and trains were also fittingly adorned; and at the residence and +grounds of Consular Agent Moerenhaut, the Stars and Stripes, with the +French tricolor, were displayed under the legend, "Friends Since One +Hundred Years." The Pico House was perhaps the most elegantly adorned, +having a column, a flagstaff and a Liberty cap, with the enthusiastic +legends: + + 1776. 1876. Now for 1976! + To the patrons of the Pico House: May you live 100 years! + No North, no South, no East, no West! + + [Illustration: William Pridham] + + [Illustration: Benjamin Hayes] + + [Illustration: Isaac Lankershim] + + [Illustration: Rabbi A. W. Edelman] + + [Illustration: Fort Street, from the Chaparral on Fort Hill] + +The Round House gardens having been reached, the literary and musical +program began. The band played _Hail Columbia!_ and General Phineas +Banning, the presiding officer, introduced the Rev. T. T. Packard who +delivered the opening prayer. Banning then made a short patriotic +address; _America_ was sung by several church choirs of the city; +Professor Thomas A. Saxon read the _Declaration of Independence_; the +choirs sang the _Red, White and Blue_; and J. J. Ayers, as poet of the +occasion, read an original poem. _Yankee Doodle_ came after that; and +then James G. Eastman, as orator of the day, delivered the address, +reviewing the civilization and wonders of every age, and tickling the +hearers' vanity with perorations such as this: + + When the mournful zephyrs, passing the plain where Marathon + once stood, shall find no mound to kiss; when the arch of + Titus shall have been obliterated; the Colosseum crumbled + into antique dust; the greatness of Athens degenerated into + dim tradition; Alexander, Cæsar and Napoleon forgotten; the + memories of Independence Hall shall still bloom in + imperishable freshness! + +At the conclusion of the oration, Jacob A. Moerenhout, the venerable +French representative, spoke very appropriately of the relation of +France to America in our great Revolutionary struggle; after which the +Rev. A. W. Edelman concluded the exercises by pronouncing the +benediction. The celebration had a soul in it and no doubt compensated +in patriotic sincerity for what it may have lacked in classical +elegance. + +Incidental to this commemoration, the Literary Committee having in +charge the exercises had named Don J. J. Warner, Judge Benjamin Hayes +and Dr. J. P. Widney a sub-committee to compile the most interesting +data about the old town from the Spanish occupancy by the founding of +the Mission at San Gabriel; and on the Fourth of July, or within less +than two months after their appointment, the historians produced their +report--to which I have already referred--a document, known as _An +Historical Sketch of Los Angeles County, California_, which, in spite +of the errors due to the short period allotted the editors, is still +interesting and valuable; portraying, as it does, various +characteristics of early life in the Southland and preserving to +posterity many names and minor facts. + +In the summer of 1875, fifteen hundred men began to dig their way into +the San Fernando Mountains; and about the end of the first week in +September, 1876, the long tunnel was completed--a bore six thousand +nine hundred and forty feet in length, beginning twenty-seven miles +from Los Angeles. During the course of construction, vast quantities +of candles, generally the best, were employed to furnish light for the +workmen, H. Newmark & Company supplying most of the illuminants. + +Some of the facts concerning the planning, building and attendant +celebration of this now famous tunnel should be peculiarly interesting +to the Angeleño of to-day, as also to his descendants, for not only do +they possess intrinsic historical importance, but they exemplify as +well both the comparative insignificance of Los Angeles at the time +when this great engineering feat was so successfully undertaken and +the occasional futility of human prophecies, even when such prophecies +are voiced by those most fitted at the time to deliver them. + +I have already mentioned the interview which Governor Downey and I had +with Collis P. Huntington, in San Francisco, when we presented the +arguments of Los Angeles for the extension of the Southern Pacific +Railroad to this point. The greatest difficulty, from an engineering +standpoint, was the boring and finishing of the San Fernando tunnel, +and the then small town of Los Angeles was compelled to pass through +much discouragement before she became the Southern terminus of the +road, a selection of the most vital importance to her future +prosperity and growth. In the first place, a Mr. Rice, whose office +was in Temple Block, represented the Railroad Company in telling the +citizens of Los Angeles that if they did not appropriate toward the +undertaking two hundred and fifty thousand dollars--then an enormous +sum of money--Los Angeles would be left out of the line of travel and +the railroad would be built so as to pass several miles inland, +compelling our city to make a choice between putting in a branch to +connect with the main line or resigning any claim she might have to +become a railroad center. In fact, this is precisely what occurred in +the case of Visalia and a number of other towns; that is to say: they +are to-day the termini of railroad feeders, instead of a part of the +main line as they perhaps might have been. + +When this threat or warning was delivered, an agitation immediately +set in, both to collect the money that the Company demanded and to +influence its management to include Los Angeles on the main line. +Judge R. M. Widney was one of the prominent figures in the local +campaign. The Chamber of Commerce, through its President, Solomon +Lazard, also buckled on its armor in behalf of Los Angeles and entered +the lists. Notably it sent a telegram to the United States Senate--the +railroad, as is well known, having received land-grants of inestimable +value from Congress and being considered, therefore, susceptible to +influence; and this telegram was penned with such classical eloquence +that it poured seventy-five dollars into the coffers of the telegraph +company. The net result of the campaign was the decision of the +Railroad Company to include Los Angeles among the favored stations. + +The politics of the situation having thus been satisfactorily settled, +the engineering problems began to cast their shadows. General Stoneman +stated that the tunnel bore could not be effected, an opinion which +was by no means uncommon at that time. Others again said that people +would never be induced to travel through so long a tunnel; still +another set of pessimists stated that the winter rains would cause it +to cave in, to which Senator Stanford laconically replied that it was +"too damned dry in Southern California for any such catastrophe." This +railroad and the tunnel, however, were fortunately to become one of +those happy instances in which the proposals of man and the disposals +of the Lord are identical, for in course of time both found their +completion under the able direction of railroad genius, assisted in no +small way by the gangs of thousands of Orientals who did the hard +road-work. + +As in the case with practically every Southern Californian enterprise, +the finishing of this great undertaking was accompanied by a rather +elaborate celebration. A delegation of San Francisco citizens, one of +whom was my brother, met at Newhall a delegation from Los Angeles +including S. Lazard[34] and myself, and I thus have the pleasant +recollection of having been among the very first who went through the +tunnel on that initial trip. Having arrived at Newhall, the citizens +of the Northern and Southern cities symbolized, by fraternal +handshaking, the completion of this new and strongest bond between +them. Amidst general rejoicing, and with thousands of Chinamen lined +up on either side of the track, each at full attention and all +presenting their--_shovels!_--General D. D. Colton drove the golden +spike which bound the rails from the North with the rails from the +South. After considerable speech-making and celebrating, most of the +company boarded the train for Los Angeles, where the jollification was +concluded with a banquet, a ball, illuminations and other festivities. +Possibly due to the great increase in Chinese brought to Southern +California through railroad work, repeated demonstrations against the +Mongolians were made here at meetings during the summer. + +Shortly after the completion of the Southern Pacific Railroad the +people of Los Angeles became very much dissatisfied with the Company's +method of handling their business, and especially with the arbitrary +rulings of J. C. Stubbs in making freight rates. On one occasion, for +example, a shipper approached Stubbs and asked for a rate on a carload +of potatoes from San Francisco to Tucson. Stubbs asked him how much he +expected to pay for the potatoes and what he would get for them; and +having obtained this information, he allowed the shipper a small +profit and took the balance for freight. This dissatisfaction on the +part of an enterprising community accustomed to some liberality found +in time such an open expression that Charles F. Crocker, one of the +original promoters of the Central, and one of the owners of the +Southern Pacific, who had occasionally visited Los Angeles, came down +to confer with the City Council at a public meeting. + +Crocker, as President of the Central Pacific Railroad Company, was a +very important man, and I felt at the time that he was most +discourteously received by those with whom he had come to discuss the +situation. The meeting, which I attended, was held in the small +Council Room, and I well remember the oppressive closeness. The place +was, indeed, packed; people were smoking and chewing tobacco; and the +reader may perhaps imagine the extreme condition of both the +atmosphere and the floor. This, however, was not all: when one of the +Councilmen--out of regard, I suppose, for the railroad President's +other engagements--asked that Mr. Crocker be permitted to address the +City Fathers, J. S. Thompson, a revolutionary Councilman, stood up and +declared that the San Francisco magnate would be heard when his time +came and--not before! How this lack of consideration impressed the +visitor may be seen from the conclusion of my story. + +After a while, Crocker was allowed to speak; and in the course of his +remarks he stated that the Southern Pacific Railroad Company had +invested a great amount of money, and that it was necessary to realize +proper interest on their expenditure. Thereupon, Isaac W. Lord, one of +the spectators, after whom Lordsburg was named, arose and begged to +tell a little story. An ambitious individual, he said, who had once +built a hotel on the desert at a cost of one hundred and fifty +thousand dollars, was without a guest until, one day, a lone traveler +rode across the burning sands and put up for the night at the +hostelry. Next morning, the stranger was handed a bill for +seventy-five dollars; and upon inquiring why so much had been charged, +the proprietor explained that he had spent one hundred and fifty +thousand dollars in building the hotel; that the stranger was, thus +far, the first and only guest; and that, therefore, he must pay his +part of the interest on the investment. + +The story, to Mr. Crocker's discomfiture, brought a loud laugh; and it +was then, before the laughter had died out, that the famous railroad +man, resuming the debate, made his memorable threat: + +"If this be the spirit in which Los Angeles proposes to deal with the +railroad upon which the town's very vitality must depend, _I will +make grass to grow in the streets of your city_!" + +And, considering the fate that has befallen more than one community +which coldly regarded the proposals of these same California +railroads, Crocker's warning was not without significance. + +The Crocker incident having left matters in a worse state than before, +Colonel Eldridge E. Hewitt, agent for the Southern Pacific, brought +Governor Stanford to my office and introduced him. Stanford stated +that his road would soon be in operation and expressed the hope that +H. Newmark & Company would patronize it. I told Stanford that our +relations with the steamship company had always been very pleasant, +but that we would be very glad to give his line a share of our +business, if rates were made satisfactory. At the same time, the +Southern Pacific Railroad Company, having secured control of the Los +Angeles & San Pedro Railroad, issued circulars announcing that steamer +freight would henceforth be classified. As this was a violent +departure from established precedents, it foreshadowed trouble; and, +sure enough, rates moved upward from eight to as high as thirty +dollars a ton, according to classification. + +H. Newmark & Company and Hellman, Haas & Company, who were the +heaviest shippers in Los Angeles, together with a number of other +merchants, decided to charter a steamer or sailing vessel. James +McFadden, of Santa Ana, owned the tramp steamboat _Newport_ which +plied between San Francisco and Newport Landing, in an irregular +lumber-trade; and this, after some negotiations, we engaged for three +years, on the basis of three dollars per ton. Having made this +contract, we entered valiantly into the contest; and, in order +suitably to impress the Southern Pacific Railroad Company with our +importance, we loaded the vessel, on her initial trip, to the +gunwales. Now cargo, on arriving at Wilmington at that time, used to +be loaded into cars, brought to Los Angeles and left in the freight +shed until we removed it at our convenience; but when the _Newport_ +arrived, the vessel was unloaded and the merchandise put into the +warehouse at Wilmington, where it was held several days before it was +reshipped. On its arrival in Los Angeles, the Railroad Company gave +notice that removal must be effected within twenty-four hours, or +demurrage would be charged; and since, with the small facilities in +those days at our command, so prompt a withdrawal of an entire cargo +was a physical impossibility, our expenses were straightway heavily +increased. + +Subsequent to this first shipment, we adopted a more conservative +policy, in spite of which our troubles were to multiply. The Southern +Pacific Railroad Company named a rate of three dollars a ton in less +than carload lots between San Francisco and way-stations, and this +induced many of our country customers to trade in that city. At the +same time, the Company carried many lines between San Francisco and +Los Angeles free of charge, potatoes and other heavy items being +favored. The mask was now discarded, and it became evident that we +were engaged in a life-and-death struggle. + +Had there been a united front, the moral effect might have sustained +us in the unequal contest; but unfortunately, H. Newmark & Company +were abandoned by every shipper in Los Angeles except Hellman, Haas & +Company, and we soon found that fighting railroad companies recalled +the adage, "The game's not worth the candle." At the end of ten months +of sacrifices, we invoked the assistance of my former partner and +friend, Phineas Banning, who was then associated with the Southern +Pacific; and he visited the officials in San Francisco in our behalf. +Stanford told him that the Railroad Company, rather than make a single +concession, would lose a million dollars in the conflict; but Banning +finally induced the Company to buy the _Newport_, which brought to a +close the first fight in Los Angeles against a railroad. + +In the winter of 1876-77, a drought almost destroyed the sheep +industry in Southern California. As a last resort, the ranchers, +seeing the exhausted condition of their ranges, started to drive their +sheep to Arizona, New Mexico or Utah; but most of them fell by the +way. + +Again, we had the coincidence of drought and a fatal epidemic of +smallpox, not only leaving death in its wake, but incidentally +damaging business a good deal. Mrs. Juan Lanfranco was one of those +who died; Mr. and Mrs. Solomon Lazard lost a son, and a grocer by the +name of Henry Niedecken, who had a little frame store where the +Angelus Hotel now stands, as well as many others, succumbed. + +FOOTNOTE: + +[34] Died, January 13, 1915, in the ninetieth year of his age. + + + + +CHAPTER XXXV + +THE REVIVAL OF THE SOUTHLAND + +1877-1880 + + +The late seventies were marked by an encouraging awakening of national +energy and a growing desire on the part of the Angeleño, +notwithstanding the excessive local dullness, to bring the outside +world a pace or two nearer; as a result of which, things began to +simmer, while there was an unmistakable manifestation on the part of +those at places more or less remote to explore the almost unknown +Southwest, especially that portion bordering on the Pacific. + +I have already noted, with varying dates, the time when patents to +land were issued. These dates remind me of the long years during which +some of the ranch owners had to wait before they received a clear +title to their vast estates. Although, as I have said, the Land +Commission was in session during the first decade of my residence +here, it was a quarter of a century and more, in some cases, after the +Commissioners had completed their reports before the Washington +authorities issued the desired patents confirming the Mexican grants; +and by that time, not a few of those who had owned the ranches at the +beginning of the American occupancy were dead and buried. + +William Mulholland, who was really trained for navigation and had +followed the sea for four or five years, steered for Los Angeles in +1877 and associated himself with the Los Angeles Water Company, giving +his attention especially to hydraulic engineering and passing as it +were in 1902, with the rest of the water-plant, to the City when it +bought the Company out. + +On March 22d, the Common Council changed the name of Nigger Alley, in +the adobe days known as Calle de los Negros, to that of Los Angeles +Street; and thus faded away a designation of Los Angeles' early +gambling district long familiar to old settlers. The same year, the +City marshalship, which J. J. Carrillo had held during 1875-76, was +discontinued, and J. F. Gerkins was appointed the first Chief of +Police. + +Part of the property included in the blanket mortgage given by Temple +& Workman to E. J. Baldwin was Temple Block; and when this was sold at +sheriff's sale in 1877, H. Newmark & Company decided to acquire it if +they could. Dan Freeman, acting for Baldwin, was our only competitor; +and after a somewhat spirited contest, the property was knocked down +to us. In 1909, we sold Temple Block to the City of Los Angeles. Quite +a large contribution of money was then made by adjoining landowners, +with the understanding that the site would form the nucleus for a +civic center; but thus far this solemn promise remains unfulfilled +--more's the shame, especially since the obligation is precisely +coincidental with the City's needs. + +In 1877, Colonel R. S. Baker erected the block bearing his name on the +site of the historic adobe home of Don Abel Stearns, the walls of +which structure, when demolished, killed two of the workmen. This +building, the most modern of that period, immediately became the scene +of much retail activity; and three wide-awake merchants--Eugène +Germain, George D. Rowan and Rev. B. F. Coulter--moved into it. +Germain was the first of these to arrive in Los Angeles, coming in +1870 and, soon after, establishing several trading posts along the +line of the Southern Pacific during its construction through Arizona. +One day, while inspecting branches in this wild and woolly region, +Germain ran into a party of cowboys who were out gunning; and just for +a little diversion, they took to peppering the vicinity of his feet, +which attention persuaded him into a high-step less graceful than +alert. Germain came to occupy many positions of trust, being +appointed, in 1889, Commissioner from California to the Paris +Exposition, and later American Consul at Zurich, Switzerland. Next +among the tenants was George D. Rowan, who opened a grocery store in +the Strelitz Block, opposite the old Jail, remaining there until the +completion of Baker's building; thus supplying another illustration of +the tendency then predominating to gravitate toward the extreme +northern end of the town. In several enterprises, Rowan was a pioneer: +he brought from Chicago the first phaeton seen on our streets; and in +conjunction with Germain, he inaugurated the shipping of California +products, in carload lots, to the Eastern market. He was also one of +the first to use pennies here. Withdrawing from the grocery trade, in +1882, he busied himself with real estate until 1892, when he retired. +A public-spirited man, he had the greatest confidence in the future of +Los Angeles, and was instrumental in subdividing much important +acreage, including the block between Sixth, Seventh, Hill and Olive +streets, which he sold in sixty-foot lots at prices as low as six +hundred dollars each. He was a prime mover in having the name of Fort +Street altered to that of Broadway, certainly a change of questionable +propriety considering the origin of the old name. Rowan died on +September 7th, 1901. His sons, R. A. and P. D. Rowan, constitute the +firm of R. A. Rowan & Company. Reverend Coulter, father of Frank M. +Coulter,[35] brought his family to Los Angeles on September 17th, +1877, and after a short association in the hardware firm of Harper & +Coulter, he entered the dry goods field as B. F. Coulter, now the +Coulter Dry Goods Company. In 1878, Coulter bought the woolen mills on +Pearl Street near Fifth. Coulter was a man of genial temperament and +great integrity; and I shall have occasion to speak of him again. + +R. F. Del Valle was born in December, 1854, at the Plaza ancestral +home, where, before the family's removal to Camulos _rancho_, I +frequently saw him playing when I attended the political councils at +his father's home. By the by, I believe that J. L. Brent had his law +office there, which may account for those gatherings. Del Valle's +boyhood days were spent in and around Los Angeles. He studied law in +San Francisco and returned to Los Angeles in 1877, a promising young +orator and attorney. Since that period he has been in public life +practically all of the time. For some time past he has been a member +of the Water Board. He has been frequently honored by the Democratic +party, especially in 1880, when as elector he was instructed to vote +for our former fellow-townsman, General W. S. Hancock. In 1890, Del +Valle married Mrs. Helen Caystile, widow of Thomas Caystile and +daughter of Caleb E. White, a Pomona horticulturist and sheepman. + +A murder case of the late seventies was notable on account of the +tragic fate of two indirect participants. On October 10th, G. M. +Waller, custodian of the land company's bath-house at Santa Monica, +detected Victor Fonck, who had been warned to keep off the premises, +in the act of erecting a private bath-house on the beach, and shot him +in the leg, from which wound, after two days, Fonck died. In his +defense, Waller claimed that, as watchman, he was acting under orders +from E. S. Parker, the land company's agent. Waller was found guilty +of involuntary homicide and sentenced on January 25th, 1878, to one +year in the Penitentiary. Parker, on the other hand, was convicted of +murder in the second degree, and on March 8th was sentenced to ten +years' imprisonment. This severe and unexpected punishment caused a +mental excitement from which Parker soon died; and, but a few days +later, his broken-hearted wife fell dead. + +Annual public fairs were centers of social life as late as the middle +of the seventies, one being held, about 1876 or 1877, in the old +Alameda Street depot, which, decorated with evergreens and flowers, +had been transformed into a veritable garden. With succeeding years, +these displays, for some time in Horticultural Hall on Temple Street, +came to be more and more enchanting. Still later, one or more flower +festivals were held in Hazard's Pavilion on Fifth Street, near Olive, +that of 1889 in particular attracting, in the phraseology of a local +newspaper, "one of the largest and most brilliant gatherings in the +history of the city." It is indeed a pity that these charming +exhibitions, requiring but the mere bringing together of some of the +flowers so bountifully supplied us, have been abandoned. + +On February 1st, 1878, twenty-three years after the Odd Fellows first +organized here, their newly-constructed hall in the Oxarart Block at +108 North Spring Street was dedicated with elaborate ceremonies. + +About 1878, Captain George J. Clarke, who had been Postmaster from +1866 to 1873, and who lived well out of town, offered me sixty feet +adjoining my home on Fort Street, a site now occupied by the J. W. +Robinson Company. He asked one hundred dollars a foot for the Fort +Street frontage alone, but as only sixteen dollars a foot had been +paid for the full depth to Hill Street of the piece I already owned, I +refused to purchase; nor was I persuaded even when he threatened to +erect a livery stable next to my house. + +Another item respecting land values, and how they impressed me: in +1878, Nadeau purchased, for twenty thousand dollars, the site of the +Nadeau Hotel, whereupon I told him that he was crazy; but later events +proved him to have been a better judge than I. + +Sometime in the late seventies, Jerry Illich started a chop-house on +North Main Street and prospered so well that in time he was able to +open a larger and much finer establishment which he called the Maison +Dorée. This restaurant was one of the best of the time, and became the +_rendezvous_ of men about town. In 1896, Jerry moved again, this time +to Third Street opposite the Bradbury Block; and thither went with him +his customers of former days. When Illich died in December, 1902, he +had the finest restaurant in the city. + +In April the Public Library was transferred to the care of the City. +In the beginning, as I have stated, a fee of five dollars was charged +to patrons; somewhat later, it is my recollection, a legislative +enactment permitted a small addition to the tax-rate for the partial +support of this worthy enterprise, and this municipal assistance +enabled the directors to carry the work along even though the annual +membership fee was reduced to four dollars, payable quarterly. + +On September 25th, General John C. Frémont arrived in Los Angeles on +his way to Arizona, of which Territory he had been appointed Governor; +and accompanied by his wife and daughter, he was driven at once to the +St. Charles Hotel. There, in response to a demonstration by the +citizens, he referred to the great changes which had taken place here +during his absence of thirty years. Two days later, General Frémont +and family left for Yuma, the explorer traveling that route by means +of the iron horse for the first time. + +Benjamin Franklin Taylor, the lecturer and author, visited Los +Angeles, in 1878, and wrote the sympathetic book, _Between the Gates_, +full of just discrimination and hopeful views respecting the +Southland. + +Some new ordinances regulating vegetable venders having been passed in +the winter of 1878-79, the Chinese peddlers went on a strike, and for +some time refused, to the inconvenience of their dependent customers, +to supply any truck-farm products. + +During the Postmastership of Colonel Isaac R. Dunkelberger, the Post +Office was moved, in 1879, to the Oxarart Block on North Spring Street +near First. There it continued for eight years, contributing much +toward making the neighborhood an important commercial center. + +M. J. Newmark, having sold to his partners his interest in the firm of +H. Newmark & Company, left Los Angeles, in 1879, for San Francisco, +after building a residence on Spring Street next to the southwest +corner of Spring and Seventh and adjoining the dwellings owned by +Kaspare Cohn and M. A. Newmark. Each of these houses stood on a +sixty-foot lot; and to protect themselves from possibly unpleasant +neighbors, the holders had bought the corner of Seventh and Spring +streets for four hundred and twenty-five dollars. On his departure, M. +J. Newmark committed his affairs to my care, desiring to dispose of +his place; and I offered it to I. N. Van Nuys for seven thousand five +hundred dollars, which represented the cost of the house alone. Times +were quite hard in Los Angeles at this period; and when Van Nuys said +that he would give six thousand five hundred dollars for it, I +accepted his offer and induced the owners to sell to him the corner +lot for four hundred and seventy-five dollars. This is the earlier +history of the corner now occupied by the I. N. Van Nuys Building, in +which the First National Bank conducts its affairs. + +Long before there was any necessity for cutting Sixth Street through, +east of Main, George Kerckhoff (who, in 1879, had brought his family +from Indiana) bought the six acres formerly belonging to the intrepid +pioneer, J. J. Warner, and, in the midst of this pretty orchard, built +the home in which he continued to reside until 1896, when he died. +William G. Kerckhoff, a son, came with his father and almost +immediately engaged in the lumber business with James Cuzner. An +ordinary man might have found this enterprise sufficient, especially +as it expanded with the building up of our Southland communities; but +this was not so with the younger Kerckhoff, who in 1892 entered the +ice business, after which effort, within ten years, he evolved the San +Gabriel Electric Company. Henry E. Huntington then associated himself +with this enterprise, somewhat later buying that part of the Kerckhoff +property on which the Huntington Building, opposite the Kerckhoff, now +stands; and as a result of the working together of two such minds, +huge electrical enterprises culminated in the Pacific Light and Power +Company. + +The year 1879 was tragic in my family. On the 20th of January, our son +Philip, only nine years of age, died of diphtheria; and a trifle more +than three weeks later, on February 11th, Leo, a baby of three years, +succumbed to the same treacherous disease. Barely had the grave closed +on the second, when a daughter became seriously ill, and after her +recovery, in a fit of awful consternation we fled the plague-infected +house and the city, taking with us to San Francisco, Edward, a son of +five years. But alas! hardly had we returned to town, when he also +died, on March 17th, 1879. + +In May, Judge R. M. Widney broached to the Rev. A. M. Hough, Rev. M. +M. Bovard, E. F. Spence, Dr. J. P. Widney and G. D. Compton his +project for the first Protestant institution of higher learning in +Southern California; and meeting with their encouragement, certain +land in West Los Angeles, consisting of three hundred and eight acres, +was accepted in trust as a gift from I. W. Hellman, J. G. Downey and +O. W. Childs, forty acres being later added. In 1880, the first +building was put up on Wesley Avenue; and on the sixth of October the +college was opened. Most of the projectors were Methodists; and the +institution, since known as the University of Southern California, +became a Methodist college. The beginning of the institution has been +odd: its first department of arts was built, in 1883, at Ontario; +while two years later its theological school was opened at San +Fernando. Recently, under the energetic administration of President F. +D. Bovard, the University has made much progress. + +A. B. Chapman, about 1879, joined C. T. Paul in opening a hardware +store at 12 Commercial Street, with a little tin-shop opposite; and +they soon introduced here the first gasoline stoves, to which the +insurance companies at once seriously objected. + +Probably the earliest Los Angeles newspaper published in French was a +weekly, _L'Union Nouvelle_, which commenced in 1879 with P. Ganée as +editor. + +Exceeding the limits of animated editorial debate into which the rival +journalists had been drawn in the heated campaign of 1879, William A. +Spalding, a reporter on the _Evening Express_, waited for Joseph D. +Lynch, the editor of the _Herald_, at about eleven o'clock in the +morning of August 16th, and peppered away with a bull-dog pistol at +his rival, as the latter, who had just left the Pico House, was +crossing Spring Street from Temple Block to go to the _Herald_ office. +Lynch dropped his cane, and fumbled for his shooting-iron; but by the +time he could return the fire, A. de Celis and other citizens had +thrust themselves forward, making it doubly perilous to shoot at all. +Spalding sent the bullet which wounded, not his adversary, but a +bystander, L. A. Major of Compton. + +Colonel G. Wiley Wells arrived in 1879, after a Civil War career in +which his left arm was permanently crippled. He also served as United +States District Attorney in Mississippi, where he prosecuted many of +the Ku-Klux Klan, and as United States Consul-General to China, where +he had a varied experience with men and affairs. With A. Brunson, he +formed the law partnership of Brunson & Wells, having offices in the +Baker Block. The next year, Bradner W. Lee, a nephew of Wells, who had +arrived here in 1879, was added to the firm. After fifteen years' +practice in the local courts, during which time Wells became a noted +figure, he retired to private life at Santa Monica, disposing of his +extensive law library, consisting of some six thousand volumes, to his +successors, Works & Lee. + +Henry Milner Mitchell, to whom I have referred as assisting to run +down Vasquez, reached Los Angeles by way of Nicaragua in 1868, and was +successively a surveyor, a reporter, a law student and, finally, from +1878 to 1879, Sheriff. In 1879, he was admitted to practice before the +Supreme Court of California, and in the same year, he married the +eldest daughter of Andrew Glassell. Eventually he met a very tragic +death: while hunting near the scene of Vasquez's capture, he was shot +by a friend who mistook him for a deer. + +Colonel Henry Harrison Markham, a New Yorker, pitched his tent in Los +Angeles and Pasadena in 1879, and was elected to Congress from the +Sixth District, defeating R. F. Del Valle. He succeeded in getting one +hundred and fifty thousand dollars for a public building and +appropriations for Wilmington and other harbors; and he also aided in +establishing army headquarters at Los Angeles for Arizona, New Mexico +and Southern California. + +Carl Seligman left Germany for America in 1879 and spent a year in San +Francisco, after which he removed to Tucson, Arizona. And there he +remained, engaged in the wholesale and retail grocery business until, +on December 6th, 1885, he married my daughter Ella, following which +event he bought an interest in the firm of M. A. Newmark & Company. + +The early eighties witnessed a commercial development so marked as to +remind one of the proverbial grass that could be heard to grow. During +an entire century, business (centered, like social life, more or less +about the Plaza) had crawled southward to First Street, a distance of +but three or four blocks; and now, in five or six years, trade passed +First, extended along both Main and Spring streets and reached almost +to, or just beyond Second. At this time, the Baker Block, at the +corner of North Main and Arcadia streets, which contained the first +town ticket-office of the Southern Pacific Railroad, was still the +center of the retail trade of Los Angeles. + +And yet some idea of the backwardness of the city, even then, may be +obtained from the fact that, in 1880, on the southwest corner of +Spring and Second streets where the Hollenbeck Hotel was later built, +stood a horse corral; while the old adobe on the lot at the corner of +First and Spring streets, which was torn down later to make room for +the Hotel Nadeau, was also still there. + +Obadiah Truax Barker settled in Los Angeles in 1880 and, with Otto +Mueller, started a furniture and carpet business, known as Barker & +Mueller's, at 113 North Spring Street. Strange as it seems, however, +the newcomers found themselves too far from the business district; +and, on Mueller's retiring, O. T. Barker & Sons moved to a store near +the Pico House. Now the firm is Barker Brothers. + +In fond recollection, the homely cheerfulness of the old-time adobe +recurs again and again. The eighties, however, were characterized by +another form of dwelling, fashionable and popular; some examples of +which, half-ruined, are still to be seen. This was the frame house, +large and spacious with wide, high, curving verandas, semicircular +bay-windows, towers and cupolas. Flower-bordered lawns generally +encircled these residences; there were long, narrow hallways and more +spare bedrooms than the less intimate hospitality of to-day suggests +or demands. + +On January 1st, 1880, the District Court of Los Angeles was abolished +to give way to the County Court; on which occasion Don Ygnácio +Sepúlveda, the last of the District Court judges, became the first +County Judge. + +The first cement pavement in the city was laid on Main Street north of +First by a man named Floyd. Having bought Temple Block, we were +thinking of surrounding it with a wooden sidewalk. Floyd recommended +cement, asking me, at the same time, to inspect a bit of pavement +which he had just put down. I did so, and took his advice; and from +this small beginning has developed the excellent system of paving now +enjoyed by Los Angeles. + +In 1880, there visited Southern California a man who not only had a +varied and most interesting past, but who was destined to have an +important future. This was Abbot Kinney, a blood relation of Emerson, +Holmes and old General Harrison, and a student of law and medicine, +commission merchant, a botanical expert, cigarette manufacturer and +member of the United States Geological Survey; a man, too, who had +traveled through, and lived long in Europe, Asia and Africa; and who, +after seeing most of our own Northwest, was on his way to settle in +Florida in search of health. While in San Francisco he heard of the +recently-formed Sierra Madre Colony, whither he made haste to go; and +after a month or two there, he liked it so well that he decided to +remain on the gentle slope, found there a home and lay out a farm. At +that time we had a customer by the name of Seabury, who owned one +hundred and sixty acres along the foothills; and this land he had +mortgaged to us to secure a note. When Kinney came, he bought a place +adjoining Seabury's, and this led him to take over the mortgage. In +due season, he foreclosed and added the land to his beautiful +property, which he named _Kinneloa_. + +All Kinney's combined experience was brought to bear to make his +estate pleasurable, not only to himself but for the casual visitor and +passer-by; and in a short time he became well known. He also was made +a Special Commissioner of the United States to examine into the +condition of the Mission Indians of Southern California; and on this +commission he served with Helen Hunt Jackson, so famous as _H. H._ +or, especially in California, as the author of _Ramona_, visiting with +her all the well-known Indian _rancherías_ between San Diego and +Monterey, in addition to the twenty-one Franciscan Missions. + +Toward the end of April, F. P. F. Temple passed away at the Merced +Ranch and was buried in the family burying-ground at La Puente. This +recalls to mind that, in early days, many families owned a hallowed +acre where, as summoned one by one, they were laid side by side in +rest eternal. + +On May 16th, John W. Bixby died, at his Long Beach estate. About 1871 +he had entered his brother Jotham's service, supervising the sheep +ranch; and to John Bixby's foresight was attributed, first the renting +and later the purchase of the great ranch controlled, through +foreclosure of mortgage, by Michael Reese. A year or two before +Bixby's death, five thousand acres were set aside for the town of Los +Alamitos, but John never saw the realization of his dream to establish +there a settlement. + +It was on the eighteenth of the same month that my brother found it +necessary to visit Carlsbad for the benefit of his health, and the +decision occasioned my removal to San Francisco to look after his +affairs. What was expected to be a brief absence really lasted until +September, 1882, when he and his family returned to America and San +Francisco, and I came back to Los Angeles, with which, of course, I +had continued in close communication. During our absence, my wife's +father, Joseph Newmark, died rather suddenly on October 19th, 1881. + + [Illustration: Antonio Franco and Mariana Coronel + From an oil painting in the Coronel Collection] + + [Illustration: Fourth Street, Looking West from Main] + + [Illustration: Timms Landing + From a print of the late fifties] + + [Illustration: Santa Catalina, in the Middle Eighties] + +Reference has been made to the movement, in 1859, for the division of +California into two states. In the spring of 1880, John G. Downey +republished the original act and argued that it was still valid; and +Dr. J. P. Widney contended that the geographical, topographical, +climatic and commercial laws were all working for the separation of +California into two distinct civil organizations. Not long after, at a +mass-meeting in Los Angeles called to forward the improvement of +Wilmington harbor, an Executive Committee consisting of J. G. +Downey, W. H. Perry, E. F. Spence, Dr. J. P. Widney, A. B. Moffitt and +J. G. Estudillo was named to see what could be done; and this +Committee appointed a Legal Committee, consisting of Henry T. Hazard, +R. M. Widney, George H. Smith, C. E. Thom, A. Brunson, S. C. Hubbell +and H. A. Barclay. The latter Committee endorsed Downey's view that +Congress could admit the new State; and it arranged for a convention +which met on September 8th, 1881. There the gist of the sentiment was +that State division was a necessity, but that the time was not yet +ripe! + +In 1880, Jotham Bixby & Company sold four thousand acres of their +celebrated Cerritos Ranch to an organization known as the American +Colony, and in a short time Willmore City, named after W. E. Willmore +and the origin of Long Beach, was laid out and widely advertised. +Willmore, a teacher, had been fairly successful as a colonizer in +Fresno County; but after all his dreaming, hard work and investments, +he lost all that he had, like so many others, and died broken-hearted. +The earliest recollection I have of a storekeeper at Long Beach was my +customer, W. W. Lowe. + +At an early period in the development of Santa Monica, as we have +seen, Senator Jones built a wharf there; but the Los Angeles & +Independence Railroad, expected to become the outlet on the Pacific +Coast of a supposedly great mining district in Inyo County, never +reached farther east than Los Angeles. The Southern Pacific Railroad +Company, desiring to remove this competition, obtained possession of +the new road, razed the warehouse and condemned and half dismantled +the wharf; and by setting up its terminus at Wilmington, it +transferred there the greater part of its shipping and trade. By 1880, +Santa Monica, to-day so prosperous, had shrunk to but three hundred +and fifty inhabitants. + +Competition compelled us, in 1880, to put traveling salesmen into the +field--an innovation we introduced with reluctance, involving as it +did no little additional expense. + +Near the end of August, a Citizens' Committee was appointed to +receive and entertain President Rutherford B. Hayes, whose visit to +Los Angeles, as the first President to come here, caused quite a stir. +His stay was very brief. During the few hours that he was here, he and +his party were driven around the neighborhood in open hacks. + +In the midst of his successive Greenback campaigns, General Ben. F. +Butler sojourned for a few days, in 1880, in Los Angeles and was the +recipient of many attentions. + +At the beginning of this decade, the Los Angeles & San Pedro Railway +was extended to Timms' Landing, the well-known old shipping point; and +San Pedro then began to grow in earnest, both on the bluff and in the +lowlands bordering on the bay. Wharves were projected; and large +vessels, such as would have startled the earlier shippers, yet none +too large at that, made fast to their moorings. But the improvement of +yesterday must make way for that of to-day, and even now the Harbor +Commissioners are razing historic Timms' Point. Penning again this +familiar cognomen, I am reminded of what, I dare say, has been +generally forgotten, that the Bay of Avalon was also once called +Timms' Landing or Cove--after A. W. Timms, under-officer in the United +States Navy--and that the name was changed prior to the Bannings' +purchase of Catalina. + +Frequent reference has been made to those who, in one way or another, +sought to infuse new commercial life here and more rapidly to expand +the city; but, after all, George Lehman, of whom I have already +spoken, was perhaps _the_ pioneer local boomer before that picturesque +word had become incorporated in the Angeleño's vocabulary. Nor were +his peculiarities in this direction entirely confined to booming, for +he did considerable buying as well. Lehman's operations, however, most +unfortunately for himself, were conducted at too early a period, and +his optimism, together with his extensive, unimproved holdings, +wrought his downfall. Besides the Round House and gardens, he owned +real estate which would now represent enormous value, in proof of +which I have only to mention a few of his possessions at that time: +the southwest corner of Sixth and Spring streets; the northeast +corner of Sixth and Hill streets; large frontages and many other +corners on Main, Spring, Fort and Hill streets. Practically none of +this property brought any income, so that when the City began to grade +and improve the streets, Lehman's assessments compelled him to give a +fifteen thousand dollar blanket mortgage to Lazard Frères of San +Francisco. + +Lehman soon found himself beyond his depth and defaulted in the +payment of both principal and interest. Not only that, but with a +complacency and a confidence in the future that were sublime, he +refused to sell a single foot of land, and Lazard Frères with a worthy +desire, natural to bankers, to turn a piece of paper into something +more negotiable, foreclosed the mortgage, in 1879, and shut the gates +of the Garden of Paradise forever; and a sheriff's sale was advertised +for the purpose of concluding this piece of financial legerdemain. I +attended the sale, and still distinctly remember with much amusement +some of the incidents. + +The vociferous auctioneer mounted the box or barrel provided for him +and opened the program by requesting an offer for the corner of Hill +and Second streets, a lot one hundred and twenty by one hundred and +sixty feet in size. Nor did he request in vain. + +One of the heroes of the occasion was Louis Mesmer, a friend of +Lehman, whose desire it was to take a talking part in the proceedings, +force up the prices and so help the latter. Amidst the familiar, +"Going, going, going!" accordingly, the bidding began and, under the +incentive of Mesmer's bullish activities, the figures soon reached +four hundred dollars, the last bidder being Eugene Meyer, local agent +for the mortgagee. At this juncture Mesmer, in his enthusiasm, doubled +the bid to eight hundred dollars, expecting, of course, to induce +someone to raise the price, already high for that day, still higher. + +But "the best-laid schemes o' mice an' men gang aft a-gley." How +eagerly Mesmer awaited the fruition of his shrewd manipulation! how he +listened in hopeful anticipation to the repeated, "Going, going, +going!" of the auctioneer! In vain, however, he waited, in vain he +listened. To his mortification and embarrassment, his astounded ear +was greeted with the decisive, "Gone!--for eight hundred dollars! Sold +to Louis Mesmer!" + +Mesmer had bought, for more than it was worth, a piece of property +which he did not want, a catastrophe realized as well by all the +others present as it was patent to the victim himself. The crowd +relished keenly the ludicrous situation in which Mesmer found himself, +encumbered as he was with an investment which he had had no intention +of making; and throughout the remainder of the contest he was +distinguished only by his silence. + +Poor old George! His vision was accurate: Los Angeles was to become +great, but her splendid expansion was delayed too long for him to +realize his dreams. When Lehman died, he was buried in a pauper's +grave; and toward the end of the eighties, the adobe Round House, once +such a feature of George Lehman's Garden of Paradise, was razed to +make way for needed improvements. + +I have spoken of the intolerable condition of the atmosphere in the +Council Chamber when Charles Crocker made his memorable visit to Los +Angeles to consult with the City Fathers. In the eighties, when the +Common Council met in the southeast corner of the second floor of +Temple Block, the same objectionable use of tobacco prevailed, with +the result that the worthy Aldermen could scarcely be distinguished +twenty-five feet away from the rough benches on which sat the equally +beclouded spectators. + +Doubtless the atmosphere of the court room was just as foul when the +Mayor, as late at least as 1880, passed judgment each morning, sitting +as a Justice, on the crop of disorderlies of the preceding night. Then +not infrequently some neighbor or associate of the Mayor himself, +caught in the police dragnet, appeared among the drowsy defendants! + +FOOTNOTE: + +[35] Died on October 27th, 1915. + + + + +CHAPTER XXXVI + +CENTENARY OF THE CITY--ELECTRIC LIGHT + +1881-1884 + + +The year 1881 opened with what, for Los Angeles, was a curious natural +phenomenon--snow falling in February and covering the streets and +plains with a white mantle. So rare was the novelty that many +residents then saw the oddly-shaped flakes for the first time. It was +about that time, according to my recollection, that another attempt +was made to advertise Los Angeles through her far-famed climate, an +effort which had a very amusing termination. Prominent men of our city +invited the California Editorial Association, of which Frank Pixley of +the _Argonaut_ was President, to meet in Los Angeles that year, with +the far-sighted intention of having them give wider publicity to the +charms and fame of our winters. During this convention, a banquet was +held in the dining-room of the St. Elmo Hotel, then perhaps called the +Cosmopolitan. After a fine repast and a flow of brilliant eloquence, +principally devoted to extolling our climatic wonders, the +participants dispersed. But what was the surprised embarrassment of +the Los Angeles boomers, on making their exit, to find pieces of ice +hanging from all points of vantage and an intense cold permeating and +stiffening their bones. Thus ended, amid the few icicles Los Angeles +has ever known, the first official attempt to extend the celebrity of +our glorious and seductive climate. + +In February, Nathaniel C. Carter, to whom I have referred as a pioneer +in arranging railroad excursions for tourists coming to California, +bought from E. J. Baldwin some eleven hundred acres of the Santa Anita +Ranch, comprising the northern and wilder portion which sloped down +from the base of the Sierra Madre Mountains. This he subdivided, +piping water from the hills; and by wide advertising he established +Sierra Madre, appropriating the name already selected by a neighboring +colony. + +In 1881, J. M. Guinn, who for a decade or more had been Principal of +the schools at Anaheim, was made Superintendent of Los Angeles City +Schools. + +A tragedy attracted unusual attention in the early eighties, owing, in +part, to the social connections of the persons involved. Francisco, or +Chico Forster, as he was popularly called, the sporting son of Don +Juan Forster, had been keeping company with a Señorita Abarta, a young +woman of superb stature, whose father was French and mother was +Mexican; and having promised to marry her, he betrayed her confidence. +Her insistence that Forster should keep his word had its _dénouement_ +when, one day, at her behest, they visited the Plaza church; but +Forster so far endeavored to postpone the ceremony that he returned to +the carriage, in which he had left her, declaring that no priest could +be found. Then they drove around until they reached the corner of +Commercial and Los Angeles streets, half a block from H. Newmark & +Company's. There the young woman left the carriage, followed by +Forster; and on reaching the sidewalk, she said to him in Spanish, +"_¿Chico, que vas hacer?_" ("What are you going to do?") Forster gave +some evasive answer, and Señorita Abarta shot him dead. She was +arrested and tried; but owing to the expert evidence in her behalf +given by Dr. Joseph Kurtz she was exonerated, to the satisfaction of +nearly the entire community. Among those who followed the proceedings +closely with a view to publishing the dramatic story was George Butler +Griffin, traveler and journalist, who, having recently arrived, had +joined the staff of the _Express_, later becoming somewhat noted as a +student of local history. + +At a meeting in Turnverein Hall, on March 24th, the German Ladies' +Benevolent Society of Los Angeles, so long known for its commendable +work, was organized. Mrs. John Milner was elected President; Mrs. D. +Mahlstedt, Vice-President; Mrs. John Benner, Secretary; and Mrs. Jacob +Kuhrts, Treasurer. + +Savarie J., _alias_ Professor Brewster, was a simple-minded freak of +the freakish eighties, who dropped into Los Angeles--as such +characters generally do--without anyone knowing much about his origin. +It was during the time that walking matches were much in vogue, and +whenever one of these took place, Savarie J. was sure to participate. +He was the only man in town that took Savarie J. seriously, and I +assume that he was generally entered rather to attract spectators than +for any other purpose. One day the Professor disappeared and no clue +to his whereabouts could be discovered until his dead body was found +far out on the desert. He had walked once too often and too far! + +Fabian was a Frenchman and a jack-at-all-trades doing odd jobs around +town, whose temperament and out-spoken way of expressing himself used +to produce both amusement and surprise. On one occasion, when he took +offense at the daughter of a prominent family for whom he was working, +he sought out the lady of the house and said to her: "Madam, your sons +are all right, but _your daughters are no good_!" + +Two other names not forgotten by householders of an earlier day in Los +Angeles are John Hall and Henry Buddin. The former, whose complexion +was as black as his soul was white, came to Los Angeles a great many +years ago. He was a whitewasher by trade and followed this calling for +a livelihood, later giving it up to run an express wagon; and I can +still see John plying about town and driving in summer between Los +Angeles and Santa Monica, his wagon piled high with household effects, +as our good citizens moved from one dwelling to another or went on +their way to the shore of the sea. I remember, also, that one day some +unnatural parent left a newborn, white infant on John Hall's steps. He +was never able to locate the mother of the little fellow, and +therefore took the foundling into his home and raised him as his son. +Moses was the name John very appropriately bestowed upon the baby; and +the white lad grew into manhood in the midst of this negro family. +Like Fabian, Buddin proved himself handy in doing odd jobs of +carpentering and upholstering, and was in frequent demand. + +On September 5th, at the conclusion of the City's first century, or, +more strictly speaking, one hundred years and a day after the founding +of Los Angeles, a noteworthy celebration was undertaken. A population +of about twelve thousand was all that Los Angeles then boasted; but +visitors added greatly to the crowd, and the town took on a true +holiday appearance. Main Street was decorated with an arch, bearing +the inclusive figures, _1781-1881_; and the variegated procession, +under the grand marshalship of General George Stoneman, was made up of +such vehicles, costumed passengers and riders as suggested at once the +motley but interesting character of our city's past. There were old, +creaking _carretas_ that had seen service in pioneer days; there were +richly-decorated saddles, on which rode gay and expert horsemen; and +there were also the more up-to-date and fashionable carriages which, +with the advent of transcontinental railroading, had at last reached +the Coast. Two Mexican Indian women--one named Benjamina--alternately +scowling and smiling, and declared to be, respectively, one hundred +and three and one hundred and fourteen years old, formed a feature of +the procession. Clouds of dust, from the crowding auditors, greeted +the orators of the day, who spoke not only in English and Spanish, but +also in French; there were festal games and sports characteristic of +the olden time; and the celebration concluded with a Spanish _baile_, +at which dancing was continued until the following morning. + +One of the musical celebrities of her time, and a native of Los +Angeles of whom the city was justly proud, was Miss Mamie Perry, +daughter of Mr. and Mrs. William H. Perry. In 1880, she went to Italy +and studied under Sangiovanni and in September, 1881, made her +_début_, singing in Milan, Florence, Mantua and Bologna the title +_rôle_ of Petrella's opera, _Contessa d'Amalfi_. In other cities, she +attained further distinction. A musical career was interrupted by her +marriage, in 1883, to Charles W. Davis; but, after his untimely death +in 1889, Mrs. Perry-Davis returned to Italy, a notable _musicale_ in +Turnverein Hall being given, as a farewell honor, on April 22d. Still +later, she returned to Los Angeles and married C. Modini Wood. + +When the funeral of President Garfield took place at Washington, on +September 27th, his memory was also honored in Los Angeles. A +procession started at two o'clock from Spring Street and marched to +the Plaza, Colonel John O. Wheeler acting as Grand Marshal and George +E. Gard, Chief of Police, leading the way. A catafalque, draped with +black, star-bedecked silk and green smilax, and surmounted by a +shrouded eagle and a little child--Laura Chauvin, daughter of A. C. +Chauvin, the grocer--kneeling and representing Columbia lamenting the +loss of the martyred chief, was drawn by six horses, followed by the +honorary pallbearers and by civic and official bodies. Judge Volney E. +Howard, as President, introduced Dr. J. P. Widney, who read the +resolutions of condolence, after which A. Brunson delivered the +eulogy. Mrs. Garfield, the President's widow, who first came to winter +in California in 1899, finally built her own winter home in Pasadena, +in October, 1904. + +S. A. and M. A. Hamburger, who were engaged in business in Sacramento, +concluded they would do better if they secured the right opening in +the Southland; and having persuaded their father, Asher Hamburger, to +join them in the new enterprise, they came to Los Angeles in November, +1881, and established their present business, under the firm name of +A. Hamburger & Sons. D. A. Hamburger, who had been reading law, joined +them in January, 1883. For years, until his death on December 2d, +1897, the elder Hamburger participated actively in all the affairs of +the concern. They first opened on Main Street near Requena--close to +the popular dry-goods store of Dillon & Kenealy, conducted by Richard +Dillon & John Kenealy--what was known as the People's Store, +occupying a one-story building with a room containing not more than +twenty-five hundred square feet; but having outgrown this location, +they moved to the Bumiller Block. Again obliged to seek more room, the +Phillips Block, at the corner of Spring and Franklin streets, was +built for their use on the site of the old City and County Building +and the Jail. In 1908, the Hamburgers moved to their extensive +building on Broadway and Eighth Street. + +Owen Brown, son of the famous John Brown of Ossawatomie, and long the +only survivor of the little party that seized the arsenal at Harpers +Ferry, came West late in 1881 and settled with his brother Jason, +already at Pasadena. A horseback trail up one of the neighboring +mountains still leads the traveler to speak in friendly spirit of this +late pioneer, who died in 1889 and is buried near the foothills. Five +years later, Jason Brown returned to Ohio. + +The _Daily Times_, a Republican sheet started by Nathan Cole and James +Gardiner, began on December 4th to be issued six days in the week. +Both publishers within a month were succeeded by Yarnell, Caystile & +Mathes, owners of the _Mirror_. So successful was the paper that it +soon grew to be a nine-column folio. + + [Illustration: Main Street, Looking North from Sixth, Probably in the + Late Seventies] + + [Illustration: High School, on Pound Cake Hill, about 1873] + + [Illustration: First Street, Looking East from Hill] + + [Illustration: Temple Court House, after Abandonment by the County] + +In the height of the Winter season of 1881-82, when the semi-tropical +glory of Southern California was most appealing, Helen Hunt Jackson, +exploring the Southwest for materials of value in the study of the +Indian, came to Los Angeles and met, as I have already related, Abbot +Kinney, himself a student of the aborigines. She also met Don António +F. and Doña Mariana Coronel; and finding in the latter a highly +intelligent and affable lady, she passed some hours each day at the +hospitable Coronel mansion, driving out there from her hotel and +reclining under the broad palm trees. When Mrs. Jackson first came, +with her pencils and note-books, the retiring Señora (as she used to +tell me), having little comprehension of the Eastern lady's ambitious +plans, looked with some suspicion on the motives of her enthusiastic +visitor; but fortunately this half-distrust was dispelled by the +warmth of the author's geniality, and Doña Mariana, opening both her +house and heart, contributed inestimably to the success of the now +famous _Ramona_, most of the rough notes for which were written at a +little table on the Coronel veranda. On Doña Mariana's advice, Mrs. +Jackson selected the Del Valle ranchhouse at the Camulos, as the +best-preserved and most typical place for a background; although, +disappointed in not finding the Del Valles at home, and consequently +seeing the imagined headquarters of Ramona for but an hour or two, she +was compelled to rely upon her Los Angeles hostess for many of the +interesting and singularly accurate details. On departing from +Southern California, Mrs. Jackson wrote for the _Century Magazine_ a +charming description of life at the old Coronel adobe, whence she +never departed without a carriageful of luscious fruit. She also added +her tribute to the attractions of the San Gabriel and San Fernando +valleys. Now the world at large has been made more conversant with the +poetical past of Los Angeles for the most part through the novel +_Ramona_. + +In 1882, the telephone was first introduced here, H. Newmark & Company +so early subscribing for the service that they were given 'phone No. +5, the old River Station having No. 1. But it may amuse the reader to +know that this patronage was not pledged without some misgivings lest +the customary noises around the store might interfere with hearing, +and so render the curious instrument useless! + +On January 20th, Don Juan Forster died at his Santa Margarita rancho, +in San Diego County; followed to the grave but a few months later by +Mrs. Forster, a sister of Pio Pico. + +As rugged as the climate of his native State of Maine, A. T. Currier, +after the usual hazardous life of the pioneer on the plains and in +mines, proved his good judgment when, in the late sixties, after +riding through California in search of the best place to found a home, +he selected a ranch close to that of Louis Phillips. For years, I had +pleasant relations with Currier; and I must confess that it was not +easy to decide, in 1882, when two such friends as he and Billy +Rowland were the opposing candidates, how I should vote for Sheriff. +Currier was elected. + +The Arroyo Vista--later and more correctly named the Vista del +Arroyo--kept by Mrs. Emma C. Bangs, was the only hotel in the Pasadena +settlement in 1882, and not infrequently passengers who journeyed +there by the narrow, stuffy stage, running every day except Sunday, +found on arriving that they could not be accommodated. So small, in +fact, was the hostelry that it became necessary to advertise when all +the rooms had been taken. The stage left for Los Angeles at nine +o'clock in the morning and returned at three; and the driver, who was +a student of the classics from the East, doled out to the passengers +both crossroad data and bits of ancient lore. + +Fire having destroyed the State Normal School at San José, in 1880, +then the only institution of its kind in California, the Legislature, +on March 14th, 1881, provided for the establishing here of a branch; +and the following March George Gephard, a German who had come in 1875, +raised eight thousand dollars to purchase the orange grove at Bellevue +Terrace, near Fifth Street and Charity, for a site. On August 29th, +1882, the school was opened with Charles H. Allen of San Francisco as +first Principal, two other teachers and sixty-one students. In 1883, +Allen was succeeded by President Ira More and the school became an +independent institution. Edward T. Pierce, who followed Professor +More, retired in 1904. An instructor there for twenty-two years was +Professor Melville Dozier, who made for California, by way of Panamá, +in 1868. Largely through the devotion of these pioneer teachers, as +well as through those qualities which have marked the administration +of Dr. Jesse F. Millspaugh, scholar and pedagogue, for nearly the last +decade, this Normal School has grown, each year, from a very humble +beginning until now it sends out hundreds of men and women into one of +the noblest of all professions. + +A commencement of the Los Angeles High School of particular interest +to me was celebrated in June in the old Turnverein Hall, on Spring +Street--Superintendent James M. Guinn presenting the diplomas--when my +daughter Ella graduated. Among her instructors had been Mrs. Chloe P. +Jones, for three years Principal of the school and for one year +Superintendent (having been the last incumbent, at the same time, of +both offices), and the late Mrs. Anna Averill, a noted club woman. +Mrs. Jones came to California from Ohio in 1873, taught for a while in +Santa Rosa and, after a year of grade work here, began to instruct in +the new high school; and there, after a service of nearly four +decades, she is still a highly esteemed member of the staff. Mrs. +Averill was the first woman to enter the Board of Education; and in +her honor a bell was placed on the Mission Road, El Camino Real, to +celebrate her seventieth birthday. + +Colonel Harrison Gray Otis, who had been a farmer's boy, printer, +Union soldier, foreman of the Government printing office, newspaper +correspondent and editor, and had first visited Los Angeles late in +1874 or 1875 to familiarize himself with local conditions, on August +1st, 1882 joined the firm of Yarnell, Caystile & Mathes, thereupon +assuming the management of both the _Times_ and the weekly _Mirror_. +In October, 1883, Yarnell and Mathes retired. A year later, the +Times-Mirror Company was incorporated with a capital stock of forty +thousand dollars. + +Notwithstanding the failure of the _Evening Republican_, in 1878-79, +Nathan Cole, Jr. started another afternoon daily, the _Evening +Telegram_, on August 19th. It was very neatly printed; was delivered +by carrier at sixty-five cents a month; and was a pioneer here in +inserting free advertisements for those desiring situations. + +In the spring of 1882, my attention had been called to the public need +of proper facilities for obtaining a drink of good water; and no one +else having moved in the matter, the following communication was sent, +during the heated summer, to the City authorities: + + LOS ANGELES, August 25, 1882. + + To the Honorable, The Council of Los Angeles City: + + GENTLEMEN:-- + + The undersigned hereby tender to the city a drinking + fountain, as per the accompanying cut, to be placed on that + portion of Temple Block fronting the junction of Main and + Spring streets, for the free use of the public, and subject + to the approval of your honorable body. + + Respectfully, + H. NEWMARK & CO. + +About the same time Stephen H. Mott, Secretary of the Los Angeles City +Water Company, promised enough drinking water, free of charge, to +supply the fountain. + +The unpretentious gift having been accepted, the fountain was +installed. The design included an iron pedestal and column, surmounted +by a female figure of attractive proportions; while below, the water +issued from the mouth of a lion's head. Though but seven feet in +height and not to be compared with more ambitious designs seen here +later, the fountain may have given some incentive to city service and +adornment. + +It has been shown that Remi Nadeau bought the southwest corner of +Spring and First streets at what I then considered a ridiculously high +price. On that site, in 1882, he commenced building the Hotel +Nadeau--the first four-story structure in town. This fact is not +likely to escape my memory, since he acquired the necessary funds out +of the profit he made in a barley speculation involving the sale, by +H. Newmark & Company, of some eighty thousand bags of this cereal; his +gain representing our loss. It thus happened that I participated in +the opening festivities (which began with a banquet and ended with a +ball) to a greater extent than, I dare say, the average guest ever +suspected. For many years thereafter, the Nadeau, now comparatively +so deserted, was the center of social and business life in Los +Angeles. + +On October 11th occurred the death of Don Manuel Dominguez, his wife +surviving him but a few months. + +In 1882, F. H. Howland, representing the Brush Electric Lighting +Company, made an energetic canvass in Los Angeles for the introduction +of the electric light; and by the end of the third week in August, +forty or more arc lamps had been ordered by business houses and +private individuals. He soon proposed to light the city by seven +towers or spliced masts--each about one hundred and fifty feet +high--to be erected within an area bounded by the Plaza, Seventh, +Charity and Main streets, and supplied from a power-house at the +corner of Banning and Alameda streets. The seven masts were to cost +seven thousand dollars a year, or somewhat more than was then being +paid for gas. This proposition was accepted by the Council, popular +opinion being that it was "the best advertisement that Los Angeles +could have;" and when Howland, a week later, offered to add three or +four masts, there was considerable satisfaction that Los Angeles was +to be brought into the line of progress. On the evening of December +31st, the city was first lighted by electricity when Mayor Toberman +touched the button that turned on the mysterious current. Howland was +opposed by the gas company and by many who advanced the most +ridiculous objections: electric light, it was claimed, attracted bugs, +contributed to blindness and had a bad effect on--ladies' complexions! + +In 1883, Herman Flatau came to Los Angeles from Berlin and soon +entered the employ of H. Newmark & Company. His first duty was to bale +hides; in a year, he was a porter in the grocery department; and by +another year he had advanced to a place in the billing-office. Since +then, he has risen step by step until he is now a stockholder in M. A. +Newmark & Company and is taken into the most confidential and +important councils of that firm. On the nineteenth of February, 1888, +Flatau married Miss Fanny Bernstein, a lady distinguished as the +first girl graduate of a Los Angeles high school to enter the State +University, receiving therefrom the Ph.B. degree. + +Dr. Elizabeth A. Follansbee registered in Los Angeles in February, +1883, and as one of the earliest women physicians here soon secured an +enviable position in the professional world, being called to the chair +for diseases of children in the College of Medicine of the University +of Southern California. + +J. W. Robinson in 1833 established a small dry goods shop at the +corner of Temple and Spring streets, which he named the Boston Dry +Goods Store.[36] A couple of years later he moved into the Jones Block +opposite the Court House, the growth of his business having warranted +such a change. In 1895 the block next to Blanchard Hall was built by +this firm, and this he has occupied ever since. In March, 1896, the +present manager, J. M. Schneider, became associated with the Boston +Dry Goods Co., which was incorporated in 1891. N. B. Blackstone, a +kinsman of Robinson, once in business with him, in time withdrew and +set up for himself, under his own name, on Broadway. + +One of the most shocking railroad accidents in the history of +California blotted the calendar for January 20th, when over twenty +persons were killed and sudden grief was brought to several happy Los +Angeles circles. About three o'clock on a cold wintry night, an +express train, bound south, stopped at the Teháchepi Station, near the +summit; and while the engineer and fireman on the detached locomotive +and tender were busy loading water and fuel, and the conductor was in +the office making his report, the brakeman, with what proved to be +uncalculating gallantry, was hastening to escort a young lady from the +car to the railway station. In his hurry, he had forgotten to apply +the brakes; and before he could return, the entire train, started by a +heavy gale, had begun to move away--at the outset slowly, then +dashing, with ever-increasing momentum, down the heavy mountain grade! + +The conductor, upon leaving the depot, was the first to discover that +the cars had started away; the disappearing lights having become so +faint as to be scarcely visible. The passengers, too, had noticed +nothing unusual until too late; when the train, plunging along at +fearful velocity, leaped the track and fell in a heap to the ravine +below. The old-fashioned lamps and stoves set fire to the _débris_; +with the result that those who were not crushed were burned. The dead +and wounded were brought to Los Angeles as quickly as possible; but +the remains of some were never identified. Governor Downey, who was on +the train, was rescued, though for years he suffered from the nervous +shock; but among those lost was his charming wife. + +Marshall & Henderson established themselves, in 1883, in the wholesale +iron and wagon-supply trade; whereupon we sold that branch of our +business to them. Shortly after, we vacated the storerooms in the +Arcadia Block, which we had continuously occupied since the +establishing of H. Newmark & Company in 1865, and moved to the +two-story Amestoy Building on Los Angeles Street, north of Requena, +but a few paces from the corner on which I had first clerked for my +brother. + +At a meeting in the office of the Los Angeles Produce Exchange, in the +Arcadia Block on Los Angeles Street on March 9th, presided over by C. +W. Gibson when J. Mills Davies acted as Secretary, the Board of Trade +of Los Angeles was organized, M. Dodsworth, C. W. Gibson, A. Haas, J. +M. Davies, Eugène Germain, J. J. Mellus, John R. Mathews, Walter S. +Maxwell, I. N. Van Nuys and myself being the incorporators. Six +directors--Gibson, Van Nuys, Haas, Dodsworth, Mathews and +Newmark--were chosen. On March 14th, 1883, the Board was formally +incorporated for fifty years. After a while the Board met in the Baker +Block, and still later it assembled in a two-story brick structure at +the northwest corner of Fort and First streets. In October, 1906, the +Board of Trade and the Wholesalers' Board of Trade were consolidated, +the new organization becoming known as the Wholesalers' Board of +Trade. This move was initiated by Herman Flatau. + +The republication, in the Los Angeles _Express_ of March 23d, 1908, +under the caption, "Twenty-five Years Ago To-day," of several +paragraphs, savoring of village gossip such as the following-- + + Some very fine nugas [_nougats?_] are to be seen at Dol's + Commercial Restaurant. They are meant for the + silver-wedding feast at Mr. Newmark's-- + +calls to mind an event of March 21st, when my wife and I celebrated +our silver wedding at our home on Fort Street. At half-past six in the +evening, all of my employees sat down at dinner with us, having come +in a body to tender their congratulations. A reunion of three +generations of the Newmarks, some of whom then saw one another for the +first time, came to a close a week or two later. + +As the anniversary approached, I prepared a surprise for my wife, +arranging that her brother, Abraham Newmark of St. Louis, should be +present in Los Angeles for the occasion. His visit, however, had a +grievous termination: while in San Francisco on his way home from Los +Angeles, death came to him suddenly in the home of a friend. + +In May, the Los Angeles Board of Education sold the northwest corner +of Spring and Second streets--a lot one hundred and twenty by one +hundred and sixty-five feet, where the City, in 1854, had built the +first schoolhouse--to the city authorities for thirty-one thousand +dollars; and the next year the Council erected on the inside sixty +feet the first municipal building of consequence. When the Boom was at +its height in 1887, the City sold the balance of the lot with its +frontage on Spring Street and a depth of one hundred and five feet for +one hundred and twenty thousand dollars, to John Bryson, Sr., an +arrival of 1879 and ten years later Mayor of Los Angeles; and George +H. Bonebrake (who came a year earlier than Bryson, and was in his day +a prominent financier) opened, if my memory serves me correctly, the +first agency for Eastern vehicles. Together, they built the Bryson +Block. + +This sale and purchase reminds me that when the lot was cleared to +make way for the new City Hall, ten or twelve fine black locust trees +were felled, much to the regret of many old-timers. These were the +same shade trees for the preservation of which Billy McKee, the early +schoolmaster, had risked bodily encounter with the irate waterman. + +When the Board of Education sold this lot, it bought another, which +extended from Fort Street to Spring between Fifth and Sixth streets +and had a frontage of one hundred and twenty feet on each street. The +price paid was twelve thousand five hundred dollars. This is the lot +now known as Mercantile Place, whose retention or sale has been so +much debated and which, with its many small stores, reminds the +traveler not a little of those narrow but cosy, and often very +prosperous, European streets and alleys on both sides lined with +famous shops. + +August 22d was the date of the City ordinance creating Elysian Park, +the act leading the early settler back to pueblo days when the land in +question passed from Mexican to American control and remained a part +of the City lots, already described, and never subdivided and sold. + +The last companies of volunteer firemen were organized in 1883, one +being in the Morris Vineyard, a district between what is now Main, +Hill, Fifteenth and Sixteenth streets, and the other in East Los +Angeles, where a hose company was formed. + +During September or October, a party of distinguished German bankers +and statesmen, who had come to the United States to investigate +certain branches of business, visited Los Angeles. The most important +of this commission was Dr. Edward Lasker of the German Reichstag, +other eminent members being Henry Villard, President of the Northern +Pacific Railroad, and Judge Siemens, President of the German Bank of +Berlin. A committee, consisting of I. W. Hellman, C. C. Lips, M. +Morris, A. W. Edelman, Conrad Jacoby, Dr. Joseph Kurtz and myself took +charge of these gentlemen, as well as a number of others, whose names +I forget. Dr. Lasker, during his brief stay, accepted the hospitality +of my home, and there received considerable honor at the hands of his +German admirers, a large body of enthusiasts serenading him. Even +while with us, it was evident that Dr. Lasker was an ailing man; and +on the fifth of the following January, while riding in a carriage in +Galveston, he suddenly died. + +General George H. Stoneman, when he retired from the army in 1871, +settled near San Gabriel; and continuing more or less in public life, +he was elected in 1883 Governor of California. + +In December, 1883, Eugene Meyer sold out to Nathan Cahn and Leon Loeb, +his partners in the City of Paris store, and engaged in banking with +Lazard Frères, in San Francisco, in which enterprise he continued +until 1892, when he moved to New York and became one of the managing +partners of the same institution in that city, retiring from active +business nearly a decade later. + +When Meyer left, he sold his home on Fort Street, which had originally +cost him six thousand, to Moses L. Wicks for sixteen thousand dollars; +and his friends told him that so successful a sale proved the Meyer +luck. Wicks in time resold it to John D. Bicknell, whose heirs still +own it. + +With the coming at Christmas in 1883 of Robert N. Bulla, began a +career that has made itself felt in local legal, political, +commercial, social and scientific circles. In 1884, he joined the law +firm of Bicknell & White; nine years later, he was representing his +district in the State Assembly; in 1897, he was a State Senator; and +his efficient activity as a director of the Chamber of Commerce, +together with his forensic talent, lead one to anticipate his rise to +further distinction in that body. As a director of the Southwest +Museum, Bulla performs another of his services to the community. + +After an unsuccessful canvass made by Judge Noah Levering, which +resulted in the attendance of just four persons, the Historical +Society of Southern California was finally organized at meetings in +Temple Block, in November and December, 1883. J. J. Warner was the +first President; H. D. Barrows, A. F. Coronel, J. G. Downey and John +Mansfield, the Vice-Presidents; J. M. Guinn, Treasurer; and C. N. +Wilson, Secretary. For a time, the Society's meetings were held in the +City Council room, after that in the County Court room; and later at +the houses of the members. On February 12th, 1891, the Society was +incorporated. + +_Le Progrès_, a seven-column paper, was started here, in 1883, as the +organ of the French population, some rather prominent citizens of +Gallic origin becoming the stockholders. Dr. Pigné du Puytren was the +first editor, and he was succeeded, in a year or two, by Georges Le +Mésnager, the wine-grower. + +On February 18th, another flood of unusual proportions, continuing +until May, devastated the Southland. Following several days of heavy +rain, the river rose and fifty houses and large sections of vineyards +and orchards in the low-lying portions of the city were carried away +by the mad waters; several lives being lost. In that year, the Santa +Ana cut its new channel to the sea, deviating from the old course from +one to three miles, but still holding to the southwest, a direction +apparently characteristic of rivers in this vicinity. + +Speaking of rains, reminds me that, in 1884, one of the difficulties +in the way of solving the water problem was removed in the purchase, +by the City of Los Angeles, for fifty thousand dollars, of Colonel +Griffith J. Griffith's right to the water of the Los Angeles River. + +Charles F. Lummis, long a distinguished and always a +picturesquely-recognizable resident, walked across the continent "for +fun and study," from Cincinnati to Los Angeles, by a roundabout route +of 3507 miles in one hundred and forty-three days, in 1884, having +made an arrangement with the Los Angeles _Times_ to which he +contributed breezy letters on the way. The day after his arrival he +became city editor of that newspaper, and in the last Apache campaign, +in 1886, he was its war correspondent. In 1887 a stroke of paralysis +sent him to New Mexico; and recovering, he spent several years +exploring and studying Spanish-America from Colorado to Chile, +becoming acknowledged here and abroad as an authority on the history +and the peoples of the lands he visited. In 1893, returning from Peru, +he edited for a dozen years the _Land of Sunshine_ magazine (later +_Out West_); after that founding the Landmarks Club to which we owe +the preservation, from utter ruin, of several of the old Missions. +This club has lately been reorganized to care for all of the +twenty-one Missions of the State. Later Lummis incorporated the +Sequoya League which has so much bettered the condition of thousands +of California Indians--securing, in particular, for the evicted +Warner's Ranch Indians a better reservation than that from which they +were driven. From 1905 to 1911 he was Librarian of the Los Angeles +Public Library. In 1903 he founded the Southwest Society of the +Archæological Institute of America which conducted many scientific +expeditions in Arizona, New Mexico and Guatemala, acquired valuable +collections and maintained the first free public exhibits of science +in Southern California. In 1907 he and others incorporated the +Southwest Museum, whereupon the Society conveyed to it all its +collections, a twenty-acre site and the fifty thousand dollars +bequeathed by Mrs. Carrie M. Jones for the first buildings. Besides +other and many literary activities, Lummis has published over a dozen +notable books on the Southwest and Spanish America.[37] Clad in +corduroys from Barcelona--coat and trousers, with very wide wales, of +olive or green--wearing no vest, but having a shirt of heavy +drawn-work of the Pueblo Indians (with whom he dwelt six years), a +red-and-white _faja_ or waist-band made by the same people, and a grey +_sombrero_ banded with Mexican braided horse-hair, Lummis roams the +desert or is welcome at the most exclusive functions; having already +been a guest many times at the White House and the palaces of Diaz and +other presidents in Spanish America. "I don't change my face for +company," he says, "then why my garb--so long as both are clean?" An +interesting figure at scientific meetings and on the lecture platform, +Lummis is equally so at home where, after twenty years' work with his +own hands, he is still building his stone "castle," _El Alisal_; and +as his house is a rendezvous for artists, musicians, authors and +scientists, his guests often find him toiling as either carpenter or +mason. The _Alisal_, by the way, is built around the huge sycamore +under which Greek George camped with his camels on his first arrival +in Los Angeles nearly sixty years ago. + +In 1884, Colonel H. Z. Osborne--always a foremost citizen of the town +and in 1912 a most energetic President of the Chamber of Commerce--and +E. R. Cleveland bought the _Express_; and two years later they +organized the Evening Express Company, J. Mills Davies, once Secretary +of the Board of Trade, becoming business manager. In 1897, Colonel +Osborne was appointed United States Marshal for the Southern +California District, whereupon Charles Dwight Willard became general +manager of the paper, to be succeeded by J. B. Abell. For a short time +in 1900, the _Express_ fell into the hands of a group of men, of whom +John M. Miller acted as President and Richard Beebe served as +Secretary. + +O. W. Childs opened his new theater known as Childs' Opera House, on +Main Street south of First, in what was then the center of the city, +on May 24th, when the _School for Scandal_ was given, Mlle. Rhea +taking the leading part. This, the first theater of real consequence +built in Los Angeles, had a seating capacity of eighteen hundred; and +for some time, at least, an entertainment was booked there for every +night of the week. Frequently, too, whenever anything of moment was +going to happen there, Childs sent me an invitation to occupy his +private box. + +An interesting personality for many years was C. P. Switzer, a +Virginian, who came in 1853 with Colonel Hollister, W. H. Perry and +others. Switzer became a contractor and builder; but in 1884, in +search of health, he moved to an eminence in the Sierras, where he +soon established Switzer's Camp, which gradually became famous as a +resort generally reached on burros. A few years ago, "Commodore" +Switzer--or Sweitzer as he was also called--retired, but the camp, +more than ever popular, has been continued as "Switzer's." + +Toward the middle of the eighties, excitement among citrus growers +throughout Southern California gave way to deep depression due to the +continued ravages of the fluted scale, a persistent insect whose home, +according to research, is Australia, and which had found its way, on +Australian plants (and especially on _Acacia latifolia_) into South +Africa, New Zealand and California, arriving on the Pacific Coast +about 1868. This particular species, known to the scientist as the +_Icerya purchasi_, resisted and survived all insecticide sprayings, +washes and fumigation, and for a while it seemed that one of the most +important and growing industries of the Southland was absolutely +doomed. Indeed, not until 1889, when the result of Albert Koebele's +mission to Australia, as a representative of the Department of +Agriculture, was made known, did hope among the citrus orchardists +revive. In that year, the tiny ladybird--styled by the learned the +_Novius cardinalis_, but more popularly spoken of as the ladybug--the +most effective enemy of the fluted scale, was introduced here, the +Government establishing, among other stations, an experimental +laboratory on the Wolfskill ranch under the charge of Professor D. W. +Coquillett; and so rapidly was this tiny favorite of children +propagated and disseminated, that the dreaded scale was exterminated +and the crops were saved. Wolfskill, by the way, though he fought hard +with the assistance of his foreman, Alexander Craw, to save his noted +trees, lacked the coöperation of his neighbors; and the injury then +inflicted largely influenced him to subdivide his famous citrus +property. + +With the arrival on March 1st, 1887, of J. O. Koepfli, a man came on +the scene who during the next twenty-five years was to be not only one +of the real forces in the development of the city, but, as a +whole-souled gentleman, was to surround himself, through his +attractive personality, with a large circle of representative and +influential friends. As President of the Merchants' Association, his +record was such that in 1896 he was elected a director of the Chamber +of Commerce where, during twelve years, he performed valiant service +on all the important committees. His work in behalf of the harbor and +the Owens River aqueduct is especially memorable. He was President of +the Chamber in 1905 and 1906. With such men as C. D. Willard and R. W. +Burnham, he founded the Municipal League, whose President he was for +seven years. His efforts were always free from the taint of personal +aggrandizement, and he thus had the public confidence. He is a member +of the well-known firm of Bishop & Company. + +Among the present social organizations of the city, the Los Angeles +Athletic Club takes second place in point of age. It was organized in +1879 by forty young men, among whom were Fred Wood, Bradner W. Lee, +Mark G. Jones, Frank M. Coulter, Frank A. Gibson, John S. Thayer, M. +H. Newmark, W. G. Kerckhoff, Alfredo Solano, J. B. Lankershim, W. M. +Caswell, James C. Kays, Joseph Binford, and Samuel Dewey. The initial +meeting took place in Wood's office in the McDonald Block, and a hall +in the Arcadia Building was the Club's earliest headquarters. J. B. +Lankershim was the first President. A few years later, the Club moved +to the Downey Block; and there the boys had many a merry bout. In the +course of time, the gymnasium was located on Spring Street, between +Fourth and Fifth; now it occupies its own spacious and elaborate +building on Seventh Street, at the corner of Olive, the Club's +quarters being among the finest of their kind in America. + +FOOTNOTES: + +[36] May 1st, 1914, the J. W. Robinson Dry Goods Co. contracted to +move to Seventh Street between Grand Avenue and Hope Street. This is +one of the notable examples of leapfrog that real estate operators +have played in Los Angeles, to the detriment perhaps, at times, of the +town itself. + +[37] In 1915, in recognition of historical work, the King of Spain +conferred upon Lummis the dignity of a Knight Commander of the Royal +Order of Isabel la Católica. + + + + +CHAPTER XXXVII + +REPETTO AND THE LAWYERS + +1885-1887 + + +Ten or twelve months after the starting of the first cable railway +here, Los Angeles, in 1885, resumed the march of progress, this time +with an electric street car line. Poles--with huge arms stretching out +into the middle of the street and often spoken of derisively as +gallows-poles--and wires were strung along Los Angeles and San Pedro +streets, down Maple Avenue to Pico Street and thence westward to what +was known as the Electric Homestead Tract, just outside of the city +limits. A company owned much land not likely to be sold in a hurry, +and to exploit the same rapidly, the owners built the road. F. H. +Howland, who introduced the electric light here, was a prime mover in +this project, but ill fortune attended his efforts and he died a poor +man. + +On January 11th, my wife and I left for a trip to the City of Mexico, +where we spent four or five days and were pleasantly entertained, +before going to the New Orleans Exposition, by our old friend, Judge +Ygnácio Sepúlveda and his wife. Previous to crossing the border, we +stored our trunks in El Paso and received them upon our return, +strapped as before. Some valuables, however, which I had hidden away +in the linen were missing when I reopened the trunk, and have never +been recovered. Among other companions on this outing were Fred, son +of J. M. Griffith, and James S., son of Jonathan S. Slauson. By the +bye, James himself has had an honorable public career, having served +in one of his activities as President of the Chamber of Commerce. + +Early in March, I believe, sewing was first introduced into the public +schools of Los Angeles, the Board of Education consenting to it only +as an experiment. + +Two celebrities divided the honors in the spring and summer in local +circles: United States Senator John Sherman, who visited Los Angeles +on May 8th, 1885, and Sir Arthur Sullivan, the distinguished English +composer, of _Pinafore_ and _Mikado_ fame, who tarried near the ocean +in the hot days of August. + +About 1885, a Dr. Sketchley, who enjoyed some reputation for his work +in the natural history field and had been a traveler through many +remote countries, brought to Los Angeles quite a collection of +ostriches and opened, about where Tropico lies, an amusement resort +known as "The Ostrich Farm." Having provided a coach to connect with +the end of the Temple Street cable cars and advertised the strange +peculiarities of his finely-feathered animals, the Doctor soon did a +thriving business, notwithstanding the task of caring for the birds in +their new environment. Later, Sketchley removed from Los Angeles to +Red Bluff; but there he failed and lost all that he had. + +Soon after Dr. Sketchley arrived here with his ostriches and three or +four men and one woman from Madras, Edwin Cawston, an Englishman now +retired and living in Surrey, happening (while on a tour through +America) to glance at an article in _Harper's Magazine_ pointing out +the possibilities of successfully raising ostriches, returned to +London, secured the necessary capital and in 1887 began shipping these +camel-birds from South Africa to Los Angeles. Many of the +easily-affected creatures died at sea; yet forty, as good luck would +have it, survived, and with them Cawston and a partner named Fox +opened a second "ostrich farm" at Washington Gardens. In time, Cawston +transferred his establishment to La Habra, associating with himself E. +H. Rydall as publicity agent; and in 1908 the Cawston Ostrich Farm, +between Los Angeles and Pasadena, was incorporated. + +Quite naturally with the advent of the settler from the East and the +Middle West, the _zanjas_, in early years so serviceable both for +domestic and irrigation purposes and, therefore, more or less +venerable, came to be looked upon as mere surface-conveyers and public +nuisances; a sign, in 1883, at the corner of Sixth and Olive streets +warning teamsters against crossing the ditch. By 1885, such opposition +had developed that most of the _zanjas_ were condemned, the one +extending from Requena Street to Adams _via_ Figueroa being, if I am +right, one of the last that was buried from view. + +For some time, East Los Angeles maintained its character as a village +or small town, and in 1885 the _East Side Champion_, started and +edited by Edward A. Weed, voiced the community's interests. + +This year was marked by the demise of a number of well-known +Angeleños. On the second of March, John Schumacher, a man esteemed and +beloved by many, died here of apoplexy, in the seventieth year of his +age. Six days later, General Phineas Banning, who had been sick for +several months, expired at San Francisco, his wife and daughters being +with him; and on March 12th, he was buried in Rosedale Cemetery. In +his declining years, illness often compelled General Banning to remain +at home in Wilmington; and when needing the services of his physician, +Dr. Joseph Kurtz, he would send a locomotive to fetch him. On June +5th, Dr. Vincent Gelcich, the pioneer surgeon, died here at the age of +fifty-six years. + +In 1885, the first medical school in Los Angeles was founded in the +house once occupied by Vaché Frères, the wine-makers, on Aliso Street +between Lyons and Center. For years the school was conducted as a part +of the University of Southern California, and Dr. J. P. Widney was +Dean. + +In the fall of 1885 Dr. M. Dorothea Lummis, a graduate in medicine of +the Boston University, settled in Los Angeles and in time became +President of the Los Angeles County Homeopathic Medical Society. +Distinguished in her profession, Dr. Lummis became a leader in humane +endeavor, reorganizing here the Society for the Prevention of Cruelty +to Animals and founding the Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to +Children. + +The first train of the Santa Fé Railroad to enter the city of Los +Angeles ran from Colton over the rails of the Southern Pacific, on +November 29th, the two corporations having come to an agreement to use +the one set of tracks until the spring of 1887, when the Santa Fé +finished building from San Bernardino to its junction with the Los +Angeles & San Gabriel Valley Railroad. The locomotive bore the name, +_L. Severy_--a prominent director in the Company, and the father of +the well-known resident of Pasadena--and the number 354. + +After twenty years' association with the wholesale grocery business, I +withdrew, on December 5th, 1885, from H. Newmark & Company, and on +that day the business was absorbed by M. A. Newmark, M. H. Newmark, +Max Cohn and Carl Seligman, and continued as M. A. Newmark & Company. +This gave me the opportunity of renewing my association with one of my +earliest partners, Kaspare Cohn, the new firm becoming K. Cohn & +Company; and the change in my activities found me once again shipping +hides and wool. + +Looking through the haze of years, many are the recollections--often +vague, it is true--of those with whom I had business relations. In the +picturesque adobe days, the majority of my customers were +simple-mannered natives such as Manuel Carizosa, on South Alameda +Street; José María Dávila, in Sonora Town next door to José María +Fuentes, his competitor; and M. G. Santa Cruz, in the same district. +Jordan Brothers, Americans, kept store on Aliso Street opposite the +Aliso Mill, and G. Ginnochio, father-in-law of James Castruccio, on +Macy Street, near the river; while Bernardino Guirado, Mrs. John G. +Downey's brother, and Max Schwed supplied the wants of Los Nietos. J. +B. Savarots, who went to South America when he sold out to J. +Salaberri & Company--a firm composed of two Basques, Juan Salaberri +and Domingo Oyharzabel--was in general merchandise in San Juan +Capistrano. Hippolyte Cahen (whose widow is a member of the Lazarus +Stationery Company,) had an up-to-date general store at Anaheim; and +Simon Cahen, son-in-law of Bernard Cohn, was similarly occupied in the +Azusa district. Others of about the same period, were Dominico Rivara, +who established himself on Main Street near Commercial, shortly to be +succeeded by Vignolo & Sanguinetti, in whose store--known as La +Esperanza and near Castruccio Brothers' La Mariposa--Jim Moiso bought +an interest. Two more Main Street merchants were A. C. Chauvin, who +conducted his El Dorado Store in the Lanfranco Building, and his +neighbor, Joe Lazarowich. And near them Francisco Vassallo had his +little fruit stand. The erratic Lucas Sciscisch, who terminated his +life as a suicide, attended diligently to business on First Street, +near Los Angeles; and not so very far away Thomas Strohm was laying +the foundation, in his grocery trade, for that popularity which caused +him, in the eighties, to be chosen Chief of the Fire Department. +António Valle, who built on the northeast corner of First and Los +Angeles streets (calling the block in honor of his five sons, the Five +Brothers), for a number of years had a grocery store on Main Street +near Requena and not far from the butcher shop of Vickery & Hinds. + +In view of the ravages of time among the ranks of these old-timers, it +is a satisfaction to observe that at least some of those who were +active before I retired are still in the trade. The first-comer was +George A. Ralphs, who, reaching Los Angeles as a boy, learned +brick-masonry and was known as the Champion Bricklayer of California +until, while on a hunting expedition, he lost an arm.[38] With a man +named Francis, he started, in 1877, the Ralphs & Francis Grocery, on +the old Georgetown corner. This was the beginning of the Ralphs +Grocery Company. In February, 1882, Hans Jevne, a Norwegian by birth, +who had been associated with his brother in Chicago, came to Los +Angeles, and a few months later he opened a small grocery store in the +Strelitz Block at 38 and 40 North Spring Street. In less than no time, +so to speak, the good housewives of the town were able to secure the +rarest tidbits from all the markets of the world; and not only that, +but Jevne, since his advent here, has been identified with most +important steps in the evolution of the city. W. F. Ball for thirty +years or more has been a tobacconist, and for thirty years, or +somewhat less, has occupied the same premises on Spring Street, north +of First. The Williams family came from England in 1882, and George +soon established his grocery business out in what was then known as +the University district, where he bought a block of land. George has +given of his time for the public weal, having been for several terms a +City Councilman. Another Los Angeles merchant who has attained success +is Albert Cohn; and while his start in life, in an independent career, +began a couple of years after my retirement, he had been in my employ +as a clerk almost from the time of his arrival, in 1882. Marius Bellue +has been located on South Alameda Street so long that it seems as +though he must have arrived here in the Year One. + +So much for the merchants of the city; among such tradesmen in the +districts outside of Los Angeles, I can recall but three active in my +day and still active in this. Alphonse Weil, a native of the sunny +slopes of France, has grown up with the town of Bakersfield. John R. +Newberry opened his doors in 1882, and, after moving to Los Angeles in +1893, commenced that meteoric career, during which he established +stores throughout Los Angeles and its suburbs. George A. Edgar, about +thirty-one years ago, brought a stock of groceries and crockery to +Santa Ana and deposited the contents of his cases in the same +location, and on the same shelves, from which he still caters to his +neighbors. + +The great flood of 1886 reached its first serious state on January +19th. All of Los Angeles between Wilmington Street and the hills on +the east side was inundated; levees were carried off as if they were +so much loose sand and stubble; and for two or three weeks railway +communication with the outside world was impossible. + +During this inundation on January 19th, Martin G. Aguirre, who was a +deputy under Sheriff George E. Gard, gave an exhibition of great +courage. So rapidly had the waters risen that many persons were +marooned; and it was only by throwing himself on the back of his +favorite horse that Aguirre, at very great risk, rescued twenty or +more people from drowning, the number including many children. In the +last attempt, Aguirre nearly lost his own life. Somewhat of a hero, in +November, 1888, he was elected Sheriff, defeating Tom Rowan for that +office. + +Rebecca Lee Dorsey, another of the early women practitioners of +medicine, came to Los Angeles in January, 1886, a graduate both of +Eastern colleges and of a leading Vienna hospital. Peddling vegetables +as a child, later working as a servant and hiring out as a nurse while +finishing her course in Europe, Dr. Dorsey was of a type frequently +found among the early builders of the Southwest. + +Largely to a board of Commissioners, consisting of Mayor E. F. Spence, +H. Sinsabaugh and the ever-ready Jake Kuhrts, appointed in 1886 when +provision was made for a paid fire department, is due the honor of +having successfully arranged the present excellent system in Los +Angeles. + +It was in 1886 that we bought the Repetto _rancho_, under +circumstances of such interest that it may be well to tell something +about the owner and his connections. Alessandro Repetto was an Italian +of such immense size that he was compelled, when standing, to shift +the weight of his body from one leg to the other. He was miserly in +the extreme, but this was compensated for by his honesty and +uprightness of character. He was also far from being neat, and I +remember the way in which he dispensed hospitality when I visited his +ranch to buy wool. He would bring out some very ordinary wine and, +before serving it, would rinse out the glasses with his fat fingers; +and it was courtesy alone that prompted me to partake of what he +offered. He lived on his ranch, but when attacked by his last illness, +he took a room at the New Arlington Hotel, formerly the White House, +on the southeast corner of Commercial and Los Angeles streets. + +There, finding him alone and neglected, I advised him to go to the +Sisters' Hospital on Ann Street; but the change did not save him and +after a few days he died. A fellow Italian named Scotti, a knave of a +chap who was with him in his last moments, knowing that I was +Repetto's executor, soon brought to my house a lot of papers which he +had taken from the dead man's pockets. + +Repetto being a recluse somewhat on the misanthropic order, I had +difficulty in getting pallbearers for his funeral, one of my +applications being to James Castruccio, President of the Italian +Benevolent Society and then Italian Consul, who said that Repetto had +never helped anyone, but that if I would give, in his name, five +hundred dollars to charity, the attendants would be supplied. To this +I demurred, because Repetto had made no such provision in his will; +and Castruccio giving me no satisfaction, I went to Father Peter, +explained to him that Repetto had bequeathed six thousand dollars to +the Church, and stated my needs; whereupon Father Peter arranged for +the bearers. All the provisions for the funeral having been settled, I +cabled to his brother and heir, then living in the mountains near +Genoa, whose address I had obtained from Castruccio. Repetto had +really hated this brother and, in consequence, he had very unwillingly +bequeathed him his large estate. + +In due season, the brother, a hunchback, appeared on deck as an +intimate with Scotti, and I found him to be an uncouth, ignorant +fellow and a man who had probably never handled a ten-dollar gold +piece or its equivalent in his life. He had on shoes that an elephant +might have worn, a common, corduroy suit, a battered hat and plenty of +dirt. Wishing to take him to Stephen M. White, my lawyer, I advised +the purchase of new clothes; but in this, as in other matters, I +appealed in vain. So miserly was he indeed, that one day, having +purchased a five-cent loaf of bread in Sonora Town, he was seen to +hide himself behind a building while he ate it, doubtless fearful lest +someone might ask him for a bite. + +Alessandro Repetto had lived with an Indian woman by whom he had a +son; and a Los Angeles attorney soon had himself appointed guardian, +declaring that the property belonged, not to the brother, but to the +boy. This, because the woman had never left her husband, was +blackmail, pure and simple; besides Repetto had willed the lad some +property in San Gabriel. Stephen M. White was the attorney for the +estate; but when this lawsuit started, Scotti advised the +unsophisticated brother to take other lawyers. Two men, accordingly, +one named Robarts and the other Jim Howard, suddenly appeared at the +trial; and when I asked why they were there, they replied that they +had been engaged by Repetto's brother. Four hundred and seventy-five +dollars settled this extortion, the lawyers taking all but twenty-five +dollars, which was paid to the mother of the boy. + +Early in the morning, a few days later--either on Christmas or New +Year's--there was a knock at my door; and when the girl answered the +call, the Sheriff was found there with the interesting news that +Repetto had been arrested and that he wished me to bail him out! I +learned that Robarts and Howard had presented him with a bill for +three thousand five hundred dollars, for services; and that, since the +money was not immediately forthcoming, they had trumped up some sort +of a charge and had had the foreigner incarcerated. White advised a +settlement, and after much difficulty we succeeded in having their +bill reduced to three thousand dollars, which we paid. + +Repetto's troubles now seemed at an end; but just as he was ready to +leave for Italy, Scotti put in an appearance with a claim for benefits +bestowed, which the much-fleeced Italian refused to pay. Scotti, +knowing along which road the unfortunate man would travel, was early +at San Gabriel with the Sheriff, to intercept Repetto and return him +to limbo; and the Genoese being brought back, he again appealed to me. +It was now my turn, as executor, to have an interesting inning with +Scotti. While I was settling the estate, I was made aware that Repetto +had loaned another Italian named G. Bernero, on his note, some three +thousand dollars; but this document I missed, and it was only by +accident that I traced it to Scotti. He had abstracted it from the +papers found in Repetto's pocket, carried it to the borrower, and sold +it back to him, for four hundred dollars! I recovered this note and +collected the balance due; nevertheless, when Scotti had Repetto +arrested, I threatened the former with prosecution on the charge of +stealing and selling the note, with the result that Scotti did not +press his suit and Repetto was released. + +In connection with this move by Scotti, Robarts and Howard reappeared +to defend Repetto, notwithstanding his previous announcement that he +would have nothing more to do with them; and to bolster up their +claim, they drew forth a paper certifying that Repetto had engaged +them to attend to any law business he might have while he was in this +country! Repetto, now really alarmed, once more quickly settled; but +the crafty Robarts and Howard had another bill up their sleeves, this +time for three or four thousand dollars, and poor Repetto was obliged +to pay that, too! + +Kaspare Cohn, J. D. Bicknell, I. W. Hellman and S. M. White, in +conjunction with myself, bought the Repetto Ranch from the brother, +before he left for Italy, for sixty thousand dollars. All in all, the +heir, who survived the date of his windfall but a few years, carried +away with him the snug sum of one hundred thousand dollars. + +This fine domain, lying between Whittier and Los Angeles, was +apportioned long before 1899, among the five purchasers. In that year, +Kaspare Cohn and I, on the advice of William Mulholland, developed +water on our undivided share, meeting with as great a success as has +attended all of the operations of that eminent engineer. After an +abundance of water was secured, we sold the property in five-acre and +smaller lots, locating the town site of Newmark near the tracks of the +San Pedro, Los Angeles & Salt Lake Railroad, and naming the entire +settlement Montebello. + +It was in the spring of 1886 that Colonel H. H. Boyce, who had been +business manager of the Times-Mirror Company, was bought out by +Colonel H. G. Otis and became editor-in-chief and general manager of +the Los Angeles _Tribune_, conducting the paper, during his short +association, with some vigor. + +One more reference to the _Times-Mirror_ publishing house. On April +8th, the company was reorganized, with Colonel H. G. Otis as President +and General Manager, Albert McFarland as Vice-President and Treasurer +and William A. Spalding as Secretary. About the middle of July, the +company bought the corner of Fort and First streets, and in the +following May moved to its new home erected there. On February 1st, +1887, the _Times_ began to appear seven days in the week. + +After grinding away for ten years as the sole owner of the Los Angeles +_Herald_, J. D. Lynch, in 1886, took into partnership his former +associate, James J. Ayers, and once more the alliance of these +puissant forces made of the paper a formidable bulwark for the +Democracy. + +Colonel John Franklin, or plain J. F. Godfrey as he was known in those +days, was rather a prominent attorney in his time; and I knew him very +well. About 1886, as chairman of a Democratic committee, he headed the +delegation that invited me to become a candidate for Mayor of Los +Angeles; but a contemplated European trip compelled me to decline the +honor. + +In the spring of 1886, a falling out between the Southern Pacific and +the Santa Fé railroads brought on a rate-war, disastrous enough to +those companies but productive of great benefit to Los Angeles. +Round-trip tickets from points as far east as the Missouri River were +hammered down to fifteen dollars, and for a few days, Charley White +(who then conducted the Southern Pacific office in the Baker Block, +and had full authority to make new fares) defied the rival road by +establishing a tourist rate of just one dollar! When normality again +prevailed, the fare was advanced to fifty dollars for first-class +passage and forty dollars for second-class. The low rate during the +fight encouraged thousands of Easterners to visit the Coast, and in +the end many sacrificed their return coupons and settled here; while +others returned to their Eastern homes only to prepare for permanent +removal West. In a sense, therefore, this railroad war contributed to +the Boom of a year or two later. + +Freight as well as passenger rates were slashed during this spasmodic +contest, and it was then that the ridiculous charge of one dollar per +ton permitted me to bring in by rail, from Chicago, several carloads +of coal, which I distributed among my children. Such an opportunity +will probably never again present itself to Los Angeles. + +Another interesting shipment was that of a carload of willow-ware from +New York, the freight-bill for which amounted to eight dollars and +thirty-five cents. These goods ordinarily bear a very high tariff; but +competition had hammered everything down to a single classification +and rate. I remember, also, that M. A. Newmark & Company brought from +New York a train-load of Liverpool salt, then a staple commodity here, +paying a rate of sixty cents per ton. + +Stimulated, perhaps, through the setting aside of Elysian Park by the +City Council, another pleasure-ground, then known as East Los Angeles +Park, was assured to the public toward the middle of the eighties; the +municipal authorities at the same time spending about five thousand +dollars to improve the Plaza, one of the striking features of which +was a circular row of evergreens uniformly trimmed to a conical shape. + +On October 14th, H. T. Payne and Edward Records published the initial +number of the Los Angeles _Tribune_, this being the first newspaper +here to appear seven days in the week. The following January, a +company was incorporated and for years the _Tribune_ was well +maintained. + +Charles Frederick Holder, the distinguished naturalist, came to +California in search of health,[39] in 1886, and settled in Pasadena, +where he was appointed Professor of Zoölogy in the Throop Institute. +An enthusiastic admirer of the Southland and an early explorer of its +islands and mountain ranges, Professor Holder has devoted much +attention to Pasadena and the neighboring coast. As early as 1891, he +published _Antiquities of Catalina_; later he wrote his spirited +Southern California book on _Life and Sport in the Open_; and with +his gift for popularizing, probably no other scientific writer has +contributed more to make known, both in America and abroad, this +attractive portion of our great State. + +Prudent and Victor Beaudry bought considerable land on the west side +of New High Street, probably in 1887, including the site of one of the +old _calabozos_; and as some of the purchase was a hill, he spent +about one hundred thousand dollars grading the property, excavating +fifty thousand or more cubic feet of earth and building the great +retaining wall, finished in 1888, four hundred and sixty-five feet +long and fifty feet high, and containing two hundred thousand cubic +feet of stone. When he was ready, Beaudry began to advertise the +superior merits of his land; and I still have in my possession one of +the flaring circulars, printed in red ink, including such headlines as +these: + + NOW IS THE TIME! + + DON'T SHUT YOUR EYES AND TURN YOUR BACK! + +and the following: + + Have a Home on the Hills! Stop paying rent in the Valleys! + View from your own home the broad Pacific, the green hills + and the model city! Best water supply. Drainage perfect. + Best sunny exposures. Pure air, and away from fogs! + + Have a Home on the line of the great Cable Railway system! + + Mark your Catalogue before the day of sale! + + February 15, 16 and 17, at 10 o'clock each Day. + + Bear in mind that this property is on the HILLS, and on the + line of the Cable Railway System! No such opportunity has + ever been offered to the people of Southern California. + Public School and Young Ladies' Seminary in the immediate + vicinity. + +Four years after he had built the Nadeau Block, Remi Nadeau died +here, at the age of sixty-eight, on January 15th. The same month, +another man of marked enterprise, Llewellyn J., brother of Reese and +William Llewellyn, founded the Llewellyn Iron Works, attaining a +success and fame very natural considering that the Llewellyns' father, +David, and uncle, Reese before them had acquired a reputation as +ironworkers both in Wales and San Francisco. + +In January, Fred W. Beau de Zart and John G. Hunsicker established +_The Weekly Directory_, whose title was soon changed to that of _The +Commercial Bulletin_. Under the able editorship of Preston McKinney, +the _Bulletin_ is still fulfilling its mission. + +Phineas, son of J. P. Newmark, my brother, came to Los Angeles in 1887 +and associated himself with M. A. Newmark & Company. In July, 1894, he +bought out the Southern California Coffee and Spice Mills, and in the +following September, his younger brother, Samuel M. Newmark, also came +to Los Angeles and joined him under the title of Newmark Brothers. On +December 26th, 1910, the city suffered a sad loss in the untimely +death of the elder brother. Sam's virility has been amply shown in his +career as a business man and in his activity as a member of the +Municipal League directorate. + +Among the hotels of the late eighties were the Belmont and the +Bellevue Terrace, both frame buildings. The former, at the terminus of +the Second Street Cable Railway, was known for its elevation, view, +fresh air and agreeable environment of lawn and flower-bed, and the +first floor was surrounded with broad verandas. For a while it was +conducted by Clark & Patrick, who claimed for it "no noise, dirt or +mosquitoes." The latter hotel, on Pearl Street near Sixth, was four +stories in height and had piazzas extending around three of them; both +of these inns were quite characteristic of Southern California +architecture. The Bellevue Terrace, so full of life during the buoyant +Boom days, still stands, but alas! the familiar old pile has +surrendered to more modern competitors. + +The Tivoli Opera House, on Main Street between Second and Third, was +opened by McLain & Lehman in 1887, and for a time it was one of the +attractions of the city. It presented a curious mixture of Egyptian, +East Indian and Romanesque styles, and was designed by C. E. Apponyi, +an architect who had come to the Coast in 1870. The stage was the +largest, except one--that of the San Francisco Grand Opera House--on +the Coast, and there were eight proscenium boxes. The theater proper +stood in the rear of the lot, and entrance thereto was had through the +building fronting on the street; and between the two structures there +was a pretty garden, with grottos and fountains, and a promenade +gallery above. + +In February, the Postmaster packed the furniture and other +outfit--only two or three good loads--and moved the Post Office to the +Hellman Building, at the corner of North Main and Republic streets; +but it was soon transferred to an office on Fort Street, south of +Sixth, a location so far from the center of the city as to give point +to cards distributed by some wag and advertising rates for sleeping +accommodations to the new office. In that year, the sum-total of the +receipts of the Los Angeles Post Office was not much over seventy-four +thousand dollars. During the twelve months of the Boom, mail for over +two hundred thousand transients was handled; and a familiar sight of +the times was the long column of inquirers, reminding one of the +famous lines in early San Francisco when prospectors for gold paid +neat sums for someone else's place nearer the general delivery window. + +I have told of some incidents in the routine of court proceedings +here, in which both judge and counselor played their parts. Now and +then the juror also contributed to the diversion, as was evidenced in +the late eighties when a couple of jurymen in a San Gabriel Cañon +water case created both excitement and merriment through a practical +joke. Tiring of a midnight session, and bethinking himself of the new +invention to facilitate speaking at a distance, one of the jurors +telephoned police headquarters that rioters were slashing each other +at a near-by corner; whereupon the guardians of the peace came tearing +that way, to the merriment of the "twelve good men and true" peeking +out from an upper window. The police having traced the telephone +message, the jury was duly haled before the judge; and the latter, +noting the reticence of the accused, imposed a fine of twenty-five +dollars upon each member of the box for his prank. + +William H. Workman, who had repeatedly served the City as Councilman, +was elected Mayor of Los Angeles in 1887. During Workman's +administration, Main, Spring and Fort streets were paved. + +About 1887, Benjamin S. Eaton, as President, took the lead in +organizing a society designed to bring into closer relationship those +who had come to California before her admission to the Union. There +were few members; and inasmuch as the conditions imposed for +eligibility precluded the possibility of securing many more, this +first union of pioneers soon ceased to exist. + +Professor T. S. C. Lowe, with a splendid reputation for scientific +research, especially in the field of aëronautics--having acquired his +first experience with balloons, as did also Graf Ferdinand Zeppelin, +by participating in the Union army maneuvers during our Civil +War--took up, in the late eighties, the business of manufacturing gas +from water, which he said could be accomplished beyond any doubt for +eight cents a thousand feet. C. F. Smurr, the capable Los Angeles +agent of the Southern Pacific Railroad Company, as well as Hugh +Livingston Macniel, son-in-law of Jonathan S. Slauson and then Cashier +of the Main Street Savings Bank, became interested with Lowe and +induced Kaspare Cohn and me to participate in the experiment. + +Accordingly, we purchased six acres of land on the southeast corner of +Alameda and Seventh streets for fifteen thousand dollars, and there +started the enterprise. We laid pipes through many of the streets and, +in the course of a few months, began to manufacture gas which it was +our intention to sell to consumers at one dollar per thousand feet. +The price at which gas was then being sold by the Los Angeles Gas +Company was one dollar and fifty cents per thousand, and we therefore +considered our schedule reasonable. Everything at the outset looked so +plausible that Smurr stated to his associates that he would resign his +position with the railroad and assume the management of the new gas +works; but to our chagrin, we found that gas was costing us more than +one dollar per thousand, and as one discouragement followed another, +Smurr concluded not to take so radical a step. Yet we remained in +business in the hope that the Los Angeles Gas Company would rather buy +us out than reduce their price fifty cents a thousand feet, and sure +enough, it was not so very long before they did. The large gas tank +now standing at the corner of Seventh and Alameda streets is the +result of this transaction. + +Late in the spring, Senator Stanford and a party of Southern Pacific +officials visited Los Angeles with the view of locating a site for the +new and "magnificent railroad station" long promised the city, and at +the same time to win some of the popular favor then being accorded the +Santa Fé. For many years, objection had been made to the tracks on +Alameda Street, originally laid down by Banning; and hoping to secure +their removal, Mayor Workman offered a right of way along the +river-front. This suggestion was not accepted. At length the owners of +the Wolfskill tract donated to the railroad company a strip of land, +three hundred by nineteen hundred feet in size, fronting on Alameda +between Fourth and Sixth streets, with the provision that the company +should use the same only for railroad station purposes; and Stanford +agreed to put up a "splendid arcade," somewhat similar in design to, +but more extensive and elaborate than, the Arcade Depot at Sacramento. +Soon after this, the rest of that celebrated orchard tract, for over +fifty years in the possession of the Wolfskill family, was subdivided, +offered at private sale and quickly disposed of. + +The old-fashioned, one-horse street car had been running on and off +the tracks many a year before the City Railroad, organized, in the +middle eighties, by I. W. Hellman and his associates, W. J. Brodrick, +John O. Wheeler and others, made its more pretentious appearance on +the streets of Los Angeles. This, the first line to use double tracks +and more modern cars with drivers and conductors, followed a route +then considered very long. Starting as it did at Washington Street and +leading north on Figueroa, it turned at Twelfth Street into Olive and +thence, zigzagging by way of Fifth, Spring, First, Main, Marchessault, +New High, Bellevue Avenue, Buena Vista, College, Upper Main and San +Fernando streets, it passed River Station (the Southern Pacific depot +on San Fernando Street), and ran out Downey Avenue as far as the +Pasadena Railroad depot. + +The year 1885 saw the addition of another Spanish name to the local +map in the founding of Alhambra, now one of the attractive and +prosperous suburbs of Los Angeles. + +Sometime in the spring of 1885, or perhaps a little earlier, the +Second Street Cable Railway was commenced when Isaac W. Lord turned a +spadeful of earth at the corner of Second and Spring streets; and +within a few months cars were running from Bryson Block west on Second +Street over Bunker Hill along Lakeshore Avenue and then by way of +First Street to Belmont Avenue, soon bringing about many improvements +on the route. And if I am not mistaken, considerable patronage came +from the young ladies attending a boarding school known as Belmont +Hall. Henry Clay Witmer was a moving spirit in this enterprise. In +course of time the cable railway connected with the steam dummy line, +landing passengers in a watermelon patch--the future Hollywood. + +Unlike Sierra Madre, so long retarded for want of railway facilities, +Monrovia--founded in May, 1886, by William N. Monroe, at an altitude +of twelve hundred feet, and favored by both the Santa Fé and the +Southern Pacific systems--rapidly developed, although it did not +attain its present importance as a foothill town until it had passed +through the usual depression of the late eighties, due to the collapse +of the Boom, of which I am about to speak. + +FOOTNOTES: + +[38] On June 21st, 1914, Mr. Ralphs lost his life in a deplorable +accident in the San Bernardino Mountains, being crushed by a huge +bowlder; although his wife escaped by springing from the rolling rock. + +[39] Died on October 10th, 1915. + + + + +CHAPTER XXXVIII + +THE GREAT BOOM + +1887 + + +Not as impulsively perhaps as on previous occasions, I left Los +Angeles for Europe on April 30th, 1887, accompanied by my wife and our +two children, Marco and Rose. Mrs. Eugene Meyer, my wife's youngest +sister, and her daughter joined us at San Francisco and traveled with +us as far as Paris. We took passage on the French ship _Normandie_, +departing from the Morton Street Pier in New York on May 14th, and +nine days later we landed at Havre, from which port we proceeded to +the French capital. + +On this trip we visited France, England, Scotland, Ireland, Belgium, +Holland, Denmark, Germany, Austria--including Bohemia--and Italy. We +also touched at points in Sweden, although we did not "do" that +country thoroughly until a later voyage. While in Germany, where I met +my nephew Leo--son of J. P. Newmark--then a student in Strassburg, I +was impressed with the splendid hotels and State highways, and the +advantage taken of natural resources; and from Ems on July 22d, I +wrote a letter on the subject to Kaspare Cohn, which I later found had +been published by one of the Los Angeles dailies. During this journey +we traveled with M. J. Newmark and his family. It was also on this +tour, on June 10th, that I returned to my native town of Loebau, both +to visit the graves of my parents and once more to see some relatives +and a few old friends. + +In Paris we had an exciting experience as observers of a +conflagration that might have terminated seriously for us. We had +been thinking of going to the Opéra Comique in the evening, but +instead had accepted an invitation to dinner at the residence of +Alexander Weil, the well-known international banker, formerly of San +Francisco; and only on our return to the Hôtel du Helder, a +comfortable family hostelry in the Rue du Helder (within a couple of +blocks of the theater), did we learn of a disastrous fire in the opera +house which caused the loss of many lives. For blocks around, streets +and sidewalks were roped in and great was the confusion everywhere. +The following day a number of solicitous inquiries arrived from +friends in America. + +In connection with our departure for this tour of Europe, I am +reminded of a unique gift to my wife of a diary in eight volumes, +tastefully bound in Russian leather--the whole neatly encased for +traveling. With almost painful regularity my wife entered there her +impressions and recollections of all she saw, refusing to retire at +night, as a rule, until she had posted up her book for the day. +Glancing over these pages written in her distinct, characteristically +feminine hand, I note once more the intellectual vigor and perspicuity +displayed by my companion in this, her first contact with European +life and customs. + +It was during my absence, on May 2d, that Erskine Mayo Ross was +appointed, by President Cleveland, Judge of the new United States +District Court just established. He was then in partnership with +Stephen M. White. A native of Belpré, Virginia, he had come to Los +Angeles in 1868 to study law with his uncle, Cameron E. Thom. Soon +admitted to the Bar, he was elected in 1879, at the age of +thirty-four, to the Supreme Bench of the State. The Judge, with whom I +have been on friendly terms since his arrival, is still living in Los +Angeles, a familiar and welcome figure in club circles. + +Speaking of this esteemed Judge, I am reminded of a visit here, in +1887, of Justice Stephen J. Field, when he sat with Judge Ross in the +United States Circuit Court, the sessions of which were then held over +the Farmers & Merchants National Bank at the corner of Main and +Commercial streets. On that occasion the members of the Bar, +irrespective of party, united to do him honor; and Justice Field, in +turn, paid a warm tribute to Los Angeles and her hospitality. + +D. W. Hanna, a Michigan pedagogue who had come to Los Angeles in 1884 +to open Ellis College on Fort Street near Temple--burned in +1888--established on September 2d, 1885, the Los Angeles College, a +boarding school for girls, in a couple of buildings at the corner of +Fifth and Olive streets. In 1887 Hanna, having formed a stock company, +erected a new school structure at the southwest corner of Eighth and +Hope streets, where eighteen teachers soon instructed some two hundred +and fifty students. But the institution failed, and the building, +still standing, was finally bought by Abbot Kinney and named the +Abbotsford Inn. + +In a note regarding the life and accomplishments of Mme. Severance, I +have referred to the distinguished _rôle_ played by this Angeleña in +the early advocacy of the kindergarten for America. It took three +years, however, for the educational authorities here to awake to the +significance of the departure, for it was not until 1887 that +Froebel's plan was admitted for experiment into the Los Angeles +schools. + +A group of Presbyterian clergymen from Los Angeles and vicinity in +1887 joined in establishing Occidental College--now, as developed +under John Willis Baer, one of the promising institutions of the +Southwest--locating its site east of the city between First and Second +streets, both lots and acreage having been donated with the usual +Southern California liberality. There, the following year, the main +college building was erected; but in 1896 that structure and most of +its contents were destroyed by fire. + + [Illustration: Spring Street, Looking North from First, about 1885] + + [Illustration: Cable Car, Running North on Broadway (Previously Fort + Street), near Second] + + [Illustration: Early Electric Car, with Conductor James Gallagher + (still in Service)] + +Early in June, as ex-Mayor E. F. Spence was about to leave for Europe, +some enthusiasm was created in educational circles by the announcement +that he would deed certain property, including the lot at the corner +of Pearl and Sixth streets (on which the Gates Hotel now stands), to +the University of Southern California for the establishing of a +telescope on Mount Wilson. The matter had been communicated to +President M. M. Bovard, who ordered a glass from the celebrated +Cambridge grinders, Alvan Clark & Sons. When President Bovard died, +Spence was too ill to arrange the details necessary to the further +carrying out of his plans; the property that he had promised to give +remained part of his estate; and the great glass, when ground, had to +be resold, the University of Chicago becoming the lucky purchaser. As +all the scientific world knows, the Carnegie Foundation at Washington +some years later established, to the extension of California's fame, +the celebrated Wilson telescopes on the mountain Spence once had in +view. + +Early in June, also, Smith & McPhee issued a directory of Los Angeles. +But two weeks afterward, George W. Maxwell published another book of +addresses with more than _five thousand_ additional names! The second +directory listed over eighteen thousand adults, from which fact it was +estimated that Los Angeles then had a population of quite sixty +thousand. + +In 1887, Mrs. Charlotte LeMoyne Wills, wife of the attorney, John A. +Wills, and daughter of Dr. Francis Julius LeMoyne (who in 1876 erected +at Washington, Pennsylvania, the first modern crematory in the world, +notwithstanding that he was denied permission by the cemetery +authorities there and was compelled to construct the furnace on his +property outside of the town), inspired the establishing here of what +is said to have been the second crematory in the United States and +certainly the first built west of the Rocky Mountains. It was opened +at Rosedale Cemetery by the Los Angeles Crematory Society, which +brought to the Coast an incinerating expert. Dr. W. LeMoyne Wills, a +son, was one of the leading spirits in the enterprise and among the +first directors of the local organization. The first cremation +occurred in June; and the first body so disposed of was that of the +wife of Dr. O. B. Bird, a homeopathic physician. The experiment +stirred up a storm of adverse, as well as of favorable criticism. + +The brothers Beaudry were interested, doubtless through their +undeveloped hill-property, in organizing the Temple Street Cable +Railway, running from the foot of Temple Street at Spring out Temple +as far west as Union Avenue, with cars operated every ten minutes. The +Company had an office at No. 10 Court Street, and the Directors were: +Prudent Beaudry, Victor Beaudry, Walter S. Maxwell, E. T. Wright, the +surveyor, Octavius Morgan, Ralph Rogers, Thomas Stovell, John Milner +and E. A. Hall. + +About July, the trustees of James Lick sold Santa Catalina Island to +George R. Shatto (who founded Avalon[40]--at first giving it his +name--and after whom Shatto Street is called), the price fixed upon +being one hundred and fifty thousand dollars, Shatto making a partial +payment; whereupon the latter agreed to resell the island to an +English syndicate. Failure to find there the store of minerals they +expected, however, led the English bankers to refuse the property; and +in 1892, after a friendly suit had reëstablished the title of the Lick +trustees, they disposed of that part of the estate (for about the same +price offered Shatto), to William, J. B. and Hancock Banning--sons of +my old friend, Phineas Banning--the three forming the Santa Catalina +Island Company. Several years later, George S. Patton was admitted as +a partner. Little by little Catalina became a favorite resort, +although it was years before there was patronage enough to warrant a +daily steamer service. In the summer of 1887, for example, at the +height of the Boom, William Banning, manager of the Wilmington +Transportation Company, ran the steamer _Falcon_ (whose Captain was J. +W. Simmie) only once every seven or eight days. Then the vessel used +to leave San Pedro wharf at one o'clock in the afternoon and return +the next day in time to connect with the three o'clock train for Los +Angeles. The fare for the round trip was four dollars. + +The year 1887 witnessed the completion of the Arcadia Hotel at Santa +Monica, named after Doña Arcadia, wife of Colonel R. S. Baker. It was +built on a bluff, was four stories high and had a great veranda with +side wings; and with its center tower and cupola was more imposing +than any hotel there to-day. Under the proprietorship of J. W. Scott, +the Arcadia became one of the first fine suburban hotels in Southern +California. + +As late as 1887 there was no passenger service between the city and +Santa Monica from six to seven o'clock in the evening, though I cannot +say just how many trains ran during the day. I am sure, however, that +there were not many. Merchants spending their summers at the beach +were more inconvenienced through this lack of evening service than at +any other time; and after repeated complaints, a coach was hooked onto +a freight train. Later, the Board of Trade objected to this slow +method, and arrangements were made for another passenger train. + +Speaking of Santa Monica in the late eighties, I am reminded of a +gravity railroad, somewhat on the principle of the present-day +roller-coaster, which was opened near the Arcadia Hotel and as a +novelty was a great success. The track was not more than fifteen feet +above the ground at its highest point of elevation--just sufficient to +give the momentum necessary for an undulating movement. + +As the final sequence to the events of three or four preceding years, +Los Angeles, at the time when I left for Europe, had already advanced +beyond the threshold of her first really violent "boom;" and now +symptoms of feverish excitement were everywhere noticeable in Southern +California. The basis of real estate operations, heretofore sane +enough, was quickly becoming unbalanced, a movement that was growing +more and more intensified, as well as general; and as in the case of a +mighty stream which accumulates overwhelming power from many feeders, +there was a marshalling, as it were, in Los Angeles of these forces. +The charms of climate and scenery (widely advertised, as I have said, +at the Philadelphia Centennial and, later, through the continuous +efforts of the first and second Chambers of Commerce and the Board of +Trade), together with the extension of the Southern Pacific to the +East and the building of the Santa Fé Railroad, had brought here a +class of tourists who not only enjoyed the winter, but ventured to stay +through the summer season; and who, having remained, were not long in +seeking land and homesteads. The rapidly-increasing demand for lots +and houses caused hundreds of men and women to enter the local +real-estate field, most of whom were inexperienced and without much +responsibility. When, therefore, the news of their phenomenal activity +got abroad, as was sure to be the case, hordes of would-be speculators +--some with, but more without knowledge of land-manipulation, and many +none too scrupulous--rushed to the Southland to invest, wager or +swindle. Thousands upon thousands of Easterners swelled the number +already here; dealers in realty sprang up like mushrooms. It was then +that the demand for offices north of First Street, exceeding the +supply, compelled many an agent unwillingly to take accommodations +farther south and brought about much building, even to--Second Street! +It also happened that a dozen or more competitors occupied a single +store-room. Selling and bartering were carried on at all hours of the +day or night, and in every conceivable place; agents, eager to keep +every appointment possible, enlisted the services of hackmen, hotel +employees and waiters to put them in touch with prospective buyers; +and the same properties would often change hands several times in a +day, sales being made on the curbstone, at bars or restaurant tables, +each succeeding transfer representing an enhanced value. Although I +was abroad during the height of this period, psychologically so +interesting, newspapers, letters and photographs from home--supplemented, +on my return, by the personal narratives of friends--supplied me with +considerable information of the craze. + +As I have already remarked, the coming of the Santa Fé--as well as the +ensuing railroad war--was a very potent factor in this temporary +growth and advance in values; and soon after the railroad's advent, a +dozen towns had been laid out on the line between Los Angeles and San +Bernardino, the number doubling within a few months. Indeed, had the +plan of the boomers succeeded, the whole stretch between the two +cities would have been solidly built up with what in the end proved, +alas! to be but castles in the air. Wherever there was acreage, there +was room for new towns; and with their inauguration, thousands of +buyers were on hand to absorb lots that were generally sold on the +installment plan. More frequently than otherwise, payments became +delinquent and companies "went broke;" and then the property reverted +to acreage again. This sometimes led to serious complications, +especially when the contract between the landowner and the so-called +syndicate allowed the latter to issue clear title to those who paid +for their lots. In such cases, the acreage when recovered by the +original owner would be dotted here and there with small possessions; +and to reinstate his property was, as a rule, no easy task. This, of +course, refers to the failures of which there were more than enough; +on the other hand, many of the towns inaugurated during the Boom +period not only have survived and prospered, but have become some of +our most attractive and successful neighbors. + +If every conceivable trick in advertising was not resorted to, it was +probably due to oversight. Bands, announcing new locations, were seen +here and there in street cars, hay and other wagons and carriages +(sometimes followed by fantastic parades a block long); and for every +new location there was promised the early construction of magnificent +hotels, theaters or other attractive buildings that seldom +materialized. When processions filled the streets, bad music filled +the air. Elephants and other animals of jungle and forest, as well as +human freaks--the remnants of a stranded circus or two--were gathered +into shows and used as magnets; while other ingenious methods were +often invoked to draw crowds and gather in the shekels. The statements +as to climate were always verified, but in most other respects poor +Martin Chuzzlewit's experience in the Mississippi town of Eden affords +a rather graphic story of what was frequently in progress here during +the never-to-be-forgotten days of the Boom. As competition waxed +keener, dishonest methods were more and more resorted to; thus +schemers worked on the public's credulity and so attracted many a +wagon-load of people to mass-meetings, called ostensibly for the +purpose of advancing some worthy cause but really arranged to make +possible an ordinary sale of real estate. An endless chain of free +lunches, sources of delight to the hobo element in particular, drew +not only these chronic idlers but made a victim of many a worthier +man. Despite all of this excitement, the village aspect in some +particulars had not yet disappeared: in vacant lots not far from the +center of town it was still not unusual to see cows contentedly +chewing their cud and chickens scratching for a living. In 1889, +however, the Council governed this feature of domestic life by +ordinance, and thenceforth there was less of the "cock's shrill +clarion." + +Extraordinary situations arose out of the speculative mania, as when +over-ambitious folks, fearful perhaps lest they might be unable to +obtain corner- and other desirably-situated lots, stationed themselves +in line two or three days before the date of anticipated land-sales; +and even though quite twenty selections were frequently the limit to +one purchase, the more optimistic of our boomers would often have two +or three substitutes waiting in a line extending irregularly far down +the sidewalk and assuming at night the appearance of a bivouac. I have +heard it said that as much as a hundred dollars would be paid to each +of these messengers, and that the purchaser of such service, +apprehensive lest he might be sold out, would visit his representative +many times before the eventful day. Later, this system was improved +and official place-numbers were given, thus permitting people to +conduct their negotiations without much loss of time. + +So little scientific consideration was given to actual values that +they were regulated according to calendar and clock; lots in new +subdivisions remaining unsold were advertised to advance to certain +new prices at such and such an hour, on such and such a day. After +these artificial changes, investors would gleefully rub their hands +and explain to the downcast outsider that they had "just gotten in in +time;" and the downcast outsider, of whom there were many, yielding +after repeated assaults of this kind, would himself become inoculated +with the fever and finally prove the least restrained boomer of them +all. From what I read at the time and heard after my return, I may +safely declare that during the height of the infection, two-thirds of +our population were, in a sense, more insane than sane. + +Syndicates, subdivisions and tracts: these were the most popular terms +of the day and nearly everybody had a finger in one or the other pie. +There were enough subdivisions to accommodate ten million people; and +enough syndicates to handle the affairs of a nation. And talking +about syndicates: the disagreement of members themselves as to values +frequently prevented the consummation of important sales and resulted +in the loss of large profits to the objectors as well as to their +associates. In many a well-authenticated case, the property remained +on the owners' hands until it became almost worthless. + +Wide-awake syndicates evolved new methods, one of which--the lottery +plan--became popular. A piece of land would be prepared for the +market; and after the opening of streets, as many chances would be +sold as there were lots in the tract. On the eventful day, the +distribution took place in the presence of the interested and eager +participants, each of whom made a selection as his number was drawn. +To increase the attractiveness of some of these offers, cottages and +even more elaborate houses were occasionally promised for subsequent +erection on a few lots. The excitement at many of these events, I was +informed, beggared description. Among others sold in this manner at +the beginning, or possibly even just before the Boom, were the +Williamson Tract, beginning at the corner of Pico and Figueroa streets +and once the home-place of the Formans, and the O. W. Childs orchard +on the east side of Main Street and running south from what is now +about Eleventh. Both of these drawings took place in Turnverein Hall, +and the chances sold at about three hundred and fifty dollars each. + +Tricksters, of whom at such times there are always enough, could +exercise their mischievous proclivities; and the unwary one, who came +to be known as the tenderfoot, was as usual easily hoodwinked. Land +advertised as having "water privileges" proved to be land _under +water_ or in dry creeks; land described as possessing scenic +attractions consisted of--mountains and chasms! So situated were many +of these lots that no use whatever could be made of them; and I +presume that they are without value even now. One of the effects of +subdividing a good part of the ten thousand or more acres of +agricultural land in the city then irrigated from the _zanjas_ was +both to reduce the calls for the service of the city _Zanjero_, and to +lessen considerably the importance and emoluments of his office. + +Advertisers tried to outdo themselves and each other in original and +captivating announcements; with the result that, while many displayed +wit and good humor, others were ridiculously extravagant. The Artesian +Water Company came onto the market with three hundred acres of land +near Compton and the assurance that "while the water in this section +will be stocked, the stock will not be watered." Alvan D. Brock, +another purveyor of ranches, declared: + + I mean business, and do not allow any alfalfa to grow under + my feet. + +A. F. Kercheval, the poet, to whom I have already referred, relieved +himself of this exuberance regarding the Kercheval Tract (on Santa Fe +Avenue, between Lemon and Alamo streets): + + HE OR SHE + That Hesitates is Lost! + An axiom that holds good in real estate, as well as in + affairs of the heart. + Selah! + +Another advertisement read as follows: + + HALT! HALT! HALT! + Speculators and Homeseekers, Attention! + $80,000--Eighty Thousand Dollars--$80,000 + Sold in a Day at the Beautiful + McGarry Tract + Bounded by Ninth and Tenth and Alameda Streets. + Come Early, before they are All Gone! + +Still another was displayed: + + Boom! Boom! + + ARCADIA! + + Boom! Boom! + +And now and then, from a quarter to a full page would be taken to +advertise a new town or subdivision, with a single word--the name of +the place--such as + + [Illustration: RAMIREZ!] + +Vernon and Vernondale were names given to subdivisions on Central +Avenue near Jefferson Street. Advertising the former, the real-estate +poet was called into requisition with these lines: + + Go, wing thy flight from star to star, + From world to luminous world as far + As the universe spreads its flaming wall, + Take all the pleasure of all the spheres, + And multiply each through endless years, + One Winter at Vernon is worth them all! + +while, in setting forth the attractions of the Lily Langtry Tract, the +promoter drew as follows from the store of English verse: + + Sweet Vernon, loveliest village of the plain, + Where health and plenty cheers the laboring swain, + Where smiling Spring its earliest visit paid, + And parting Summer's lingering blooms delayed; + +concluding the announcement with the following lines characteristic of +the times: + + Catch on before the whole country rushes to Vernondale! + Every man who wishes a home in Paradise should locate in this, + the loveliest district of the whole of Southern California. + This is where the orange groves are loveliest! + This is where the grapes are most luxuriant! + This is where the vegetation is grandest! + This is where the flowers are prettiest! + +With the Boom affecting not only Los Angeles but also each acre of her +immediate vicinity, Pasadena and the district lying between the two +towns took on new life. Five thousand inhabitants boasted a million +dollars in deposits and a couple of millions invested in new +buildings; while "gilt-edged Raymond," a colony surrounding the +Raymond Hotel, became a bustling center. In March, George Whitcomb +laid out Glendora, naming it (with the use of a couple of additional +letters) after his wife, Ledora; and at the first day's sale, he +auctioned off three hundred lots. In December, the old-established +town of Pomona was incorporated. Whittier, started by Quakers from +Indiana, Iowa and Illinois, and christened in honor of the New England +poet, began at this time with a boom, two hundred thousand dollars' +worth of property having been sold there in four months. This +prosperity led one newspaper to say with extreme modesty: + + Whittier is the coming place! It will dwarf Monrovia and + eclipse Pasadena. Nothing can stop it! The Quakers are + coming in from all over the United States; + +and another journal contained an advertisement commencing as follows: + + WHITTIER! WHITTIER!! WHITTIER!!! + Queen of the Foothills and Crown of the San Gabriel Valley. + +I. W. Lord established Lordsburg--or at least an elaborate hotel +there, for in those days a good hotel was half of a town; and when +Lordsburg slumped, he sold the building to a colony of Dunkers for a +college. Nadeau Park was projected as a town at the junction of the +Atchison, Topeka & Santa Fé's Ballona road and the Southern Pacific. +Santa Ana, too, after its sale in June of over eighty thousand +dollars' worth of land, came forward in the summer with this confident +salutation: + + THIS IS PURE GOLD!!! + Santa Ana, + The Metropolis of Southern California's Fairest Valley! + Chief Among Ten Thousand, or the One + Altogether Lovely! + Beautiful! Busy! Bustling! Booming! It + Can't be Beat! + The town now has the biggest kind + of a big, big boom. + A Great Big Boom! And you + Can Accumulate Ducats by Investing! + +Fullerton was started in July, when ninety-two thousand dollars +changed hands within half a day; and conditions favoring the young +community, it survived. Rivera, in the Upper Los Nietos Valley, also +then came into being. The glories of Tustin (founded in 1867 by +Columbus Tustin, but evidencing little prosperity until twenty years +later) were proclaimed through such unassuming advertisements as this: + + TUSTIN + THE BEAUTIFUL + Unexcelled in charm and loveliness. + An Earthly Eden Unsurpassed in + Wealth of Flower and Foliage. + However, Imagination Cannot Conceive It: + It must be seen to be realized, + +supplemented by the following versification: + + When the Angel of Peace to Earth first descended, + To bless with his presence the children of men, + 'Mid the fairest of scenes his pathway e'er tended, + And unto his smile the glad earth smiled again. + He joyed in the fragrance of orange and roses, + And loved 'mid their glances to linger or roam, + And he said: "Here in Tustin, where Beauty reposes, + I also will linger or build me a home!" + +In April, Jonathan S. Slauson and a company of Los Angeles capitalists +laid out and started the town of Azusa, on a slope eight hundred feet +high in a rich and promising country. Not so far away was Palomares, +announced through the following reassuring poster: + + Grand Railroad Excursion and Genuine + AUCTION SALE! + _No Chenanekin!!_ + Thursday, June 7, 1887. + Beautiful Palomares, Pomona Valley! + Lunch, Coffee, Lemonade, and Ice Water Free! + Full Band of Music. + +And here it may not be without interest to note the stations then +passed in making such an excursion from Los Angeles to the new town: +Commercial Street, Garvanza, Raymond, Pasadena, Lamanda Park (named, +Henry W. O'Melveny tells me, after Amanda, wife of L. J. Rose), Santa +Anita, Arcadia, Monrovia, Duarte, Glendora, San Dimas and Lordsburg. +Providencia _rancho_, consisting of seventeen thousand acres of +mountain and valley, was opened up in 1887 and the new town of Burbank +was laid out; J. Downey Harvey, J. G. Downey's heir, and David +Burbank, the good-natured dentist and old-timer, then living on the +site of the Burbank Theater (once the orchard of J. J. Warner), being +among the directors. About the same time, twelve thousand acres of the +Lankershim _rancho_, adjoining the Providencia, were disposed of. +Sixty-five dollars was asked for a certificate of stock, which was +exchangeable later for an acre of land. Glendale was another child of +the Boom, for the development of which much dependence was placed on +a new motor railroad. Rosecrans and its Addition were two other tracts +relying on improved facilities for communicating with Los Angeles. +Under the caption, _Veni, Vidi, Vici!_ a motor road was promised for +service within ninety days; and lots, from one hundred dollars up, +were then to be advanced five hundred per cent! Excursions, +accompanied by Colonel Bartlett's Seventh Infantry Band, to +"magnificent Monte Vista, the Gem of the Mountains! the Queen of the +Valley!" near San Fernando, fifteen miles from Los Angeles, were among +the trips arranged. + +Speaking of the Boom, I recall an amusing situation such as now and +then relieved the dark gloom of the aftermath. When a well-known +suburb of Los Angeles was laid out, someone proposed that a road be +named Euclid Avenue; whereupon a prominent citizen protested +vigorously and asked _what Mr. Euclid had ever done for Southern +California_? + +During 1887, and at the suggestion of George E. Gard, many neighboring +towns--a number of which have long since become mere memories--donated +each a lot, through whose sale a Los Angeles County exhibit at the +reunion of the Grand Army of the Republic was made possible; and among +these places were Alosta, Gladstone, Glendora, Azusa, Beaumont, +Arcadia, Raymond, San Gabriel, Glendale, Burbank, Lamar's Addition to +Alosta, Rosecrans, St. James, Bethune, Mondonville, Olivewood, +Oleander, Lordsburg, McCoy's[41] Addition to Broad Acres, Ivanhoe, New +Vernon, Alta Vista, Nadeau Park, Bonita Tract, San Dimas, Port +Ballona, Southside, Ontario, Walleria and Ocean Spray. When the lots +were sold at Armory Hall, some ten thousand dollars was +realized--twelve hundred and seventy-five dollars, paid by Colonel +Banbury for a piece of land at Pasadena, being the highest price +brought. Not even the celebrity given the place through the gift of a +lot to the Grand Old Man of England saved Gladstone; and St. James +soon passed into the realms of the forgotten, notwithstanding that one +hundred and fifty vehicles and five hundred people were engaged, in +June, in caring for the visitors who made their way to the proposed +town-site, five miles from Anaheim, and bought, when there, forty +thousand dollars' worth of property in a few hours. + +Ben E. Ward--a good citizen whose office was in the renovated +municipal adobe--operated with Santa Monica realty during the Boom, +somewhat as did Colonel Tom Fitch in the cradle days of the bay city. +He ran private trains and sold acre and villa lots, and five-and +ten-acre farms, for ten per cent. of the price "at the fall of the +hammer;" the balance of the first quarter payable on receipt of the +agreement, and the other payments in six, twelve and eighteen months. +On one occasion in June, Ward was advertising as follows: + + HO, FOR THE BEACH! + To-morrow, To-morrow! + Grand Auction Sale at + Santa Monica. + 350--Acres--350 + + One of the Grandest Panoramic Views the Human Eye ever + rested upon, including Ballona, Lake and Harbor, with its + outgoing and in-coming vessels, the Grand Old Pacific, the + handsome new Hotel Arcadia, while in the distance may be + seen Los Angeles, the Pride of All, and the coming city of + two hundred thousand people. + +Long Beach came in for its share of the Boom. In July, H. G. Wilshire +(after whom, I believe, Wilshire Boulevard was named), as general +manager of the new hotel at that place, offered lots at one hundred +and fifty dollars and upward, advertising under the caption, "Peerless +Long Beach!" and declaring that the place was "no new settlement, but +a prosperous town of two thousand people," to be "reached without +change of cars." The hotel was to be doubled in size, streets were to +be sprinkled and bathhouses--with hot and cold water--were to be +built. One of the special attractions promised was even a +billiard-room for ladies! But the hotel was afterward destroyed by +fire, and Long Beach dwindled away until, in 1890, it had scarcely a +population of five hundred. + +Besides the improving of Santa Monica and the expanding of San Pedro, +several harbor projects were proposed in the days of the Boom. About +the first of June, 1887, Port Ballona--formerly Will Tell's--began to +be advertised as "The Future Harbor of Southern California" and the +ocean terminus of the California Central Railroad, which was a part of +the Atchison, Topeka & Santa Fé system. In August, thousands of people +assembled at the beach to celebrate the opening of La Ballona Harbor. +The enterprise had been backed by Louis Mesmer, Bernard Mills, Frank +Sabichi and others; and Mesmer, General Nelson A. Miles, ex-Governor +Stoneman, Eugène Germain and J. D. Lynch were among the speakers. A +syndicate, headed by J. R. Tuffree, which purchased the Palos Verdes +_rancho_, announced its intention of creating the harbor of Catalina +at Portuguese Bend. The syndicate was to build there a large hotel +named Borromea, while a Mr. Kerckhoff, encouraged by the prospect of a +railroad around Point Firmin, was to erect another huge hotel and lay +out a watering place. + +As the Boom progressed and railroads continued to advertise Los +Angeles, the authorities began to look with consternation on the +problem of housing the crowds still booked to come from the East; and +it was soon recognized that many prospective settlers would need to +roost, for a while, as best they could in the surrounding territory. +The Hotel Splendid, an enterprise fostered by Hammel & Denker, +proprietors of the United States Hotel, was then commenced on Main +Street, between Ninth and Tenth, though it was never completed. +Numerous capitalists and business houses encouraged the proposition; +yet the site was sold, but a single generation ago, to O. T. Johnson, +a local philanthropist, for about twenty-five thousand dollars--a +conservative estimate placing its present value at not much less than +two and a half millions. + +But there are other indications of the strength, or perhaps the +weakness, of the Boom. In 1887, the total assessment of the young City +and County was three million dollars, or about one-third that +recorded for the longer-developed City and County of San Francisco. In +one day in July, real estate valued at $664,000 was transferred; on +another day in the same month, $730,000 worth; and soon after, in one +day, property to the value of $930,000 changed hands. From forty +million dollars in March, 1886, the wealth of the county jumped, in +just two years, to one hundred and three millions. So many, indeed, +were the purchasers of real estate in Los Angeles at that time who +soon left the town and were seldom or never heard of again, and so +many were the sales effected by proxy, that even in August of 1887 one +of the newspapers contained over three pages of taxes listed on +property whose possessors were unknown. + +During this wild excitement, few men of position or reputation who +came to town escaped interrogation as to what they thought of the +Boom. "Phil" D. Armour, head of the Armour Packing Company, was one +who arrived late in July, and whose opinion was immediately sought; +and his answer indicated the unbounded confidence inspired in the +minds of even outsiders by the unheard-of development of land values. +"Boom--will it break soon?" repeated Armour and proceeded to answer +his own query. "There is no boom to break! This is merely the +preliminary to a boom which will so outclass the present activities +that its sound will be as thunder to the cracking of a hickory nut!" +Nor was Armour the only one who was so carried away by the phenomena +of the times: San Francisco watched Los Angeles with wonder and +interest, marveling at all she heard of the magic changes south of the +Teháchepi, and asking herself if Los Angeles might not be able to +point the way to better methods of city-building? + +I have thus endeavored to give a slight idea of the lack of mental +poise displayed by our good people in the year 1887, when the crop of +millionaires was so great that to be one was no distinction at all. +But alas! the inevitable collapse came and values tumbled fully as +rapidly as they had advanced, finding many (who but a short period +before had based their worth on investments figured at several times +their value) loaded with overwhelming debts and mortgages quite +impossible of liquidation. Indeed, readjustments took years and years +to accomplish; and so it happened that many an imaginary Croesus +then became the bidder, often unsuccessful, for humble employment. +Just as is always the case, too, in periods such as I have described, +the depression, when it came was correspondingly severe and sudden. +Many of our greatest boomers and speculators lost all hope; and more +than one poor suicide so paid the price of his inordinate craving for +wealth. + +To be sure, some level-headed people, acting more conservatively than +the majority, in time derived large profits from the steady increase +in values. Those who bought judiciously during that period are now the +men of wealth in Los Angeles; and this is more particularly true as to +ownership in business sections of the city. Even at the height of the +Boom but little property on any of the streets south of Fifth was +worth more than two hundred dollars a foot. Following the Boom, there +was an increase of building, much of it doubtless due to contracts +already entered into. + +Incidental to the opening of the Southern Pacific Railroad's route +between the North and South by way of the coast, on August 20th, a +great railway _fête_ was held at Santa Bárbara, the first through +trains from San Francisco and Los Angeles meeting at that point. A +procession, illustrating the progress in transportation methods from +the burro pack and stage coach to the modern train of cars, filed +about the streets of the old Spanish town. On the return of the Los +Angeles excursion train, however, a defective culvert near the Camulos +Ranch caused the cars, with one hundred and fifty passengers, to +plunge down an embankment--luckily with but few casualties. + +L. E. Mosher, who had much literary ability and is still remembered as +the author of the poem, _The Stranded Bugle_, joined the _Times_ staff +in August and became prominently identified with the conduct of that +newspaper. Later, he left journalism and entered on a business career +in New York; but experiencing reverses, he returned to Los Angeles. +Failing here, he at length committed suicide, to the deep regret of a +large circle of friends. + +Late in August, the paving of Main Street, the first thoroughfare of +Los Angeles to be so improved, was begun, much to the relief of our +townspeople who had too long borne the inconvenience of dusty and +muddy roadways, and who, after heavy rains the winter before, had in +no uncertain fashion given utterance to their disgust at the backward +conditions. This expression was the result of a carefully and +generally organized movement; for one morning it was discovered that +all of the principal streets were covered with mounds of earth +resembling little graves, into each of which had been thrust imitation +tombstones bearing such inscriptions as the following: + + BEWARE OF QUICKSAND! + FARE FOR FERRYING ACROSS, 25 CENTS. + NO DUCK-HUNTING ALLOWED IN THIS POND! + BOATS LEAVE THIS LANDING EVERY HALF-HOUR. + REQUIESCAT IN PACE! + +This year, the _Sued-Californische Post_, which had been established +in 1874, began to appear as a daily, with a weekly edition, the +Germans in Los Angeles in the eighties representing no mean portion of +the burgher strength. + +In 1887, the Turnverein-Germania sold to L. J. Rose and J. B. +Lankershim, for removal and renovation, the frame structure on Spring +Street which for so many years had served it as a home, and erected in +its place a substantial brick building costing about forty thousand +dollars. Six or seven years afterward, the society resold that +property--to be used later as the Elks' Hall--for one hundred thousand +dollars; then it bought the lot at 319 and 321 South Main Street, and +erected there its new stone-fronted Turner Hall. On the occasion of +the corner-stone laying, on August 14th, 1887, when the +Turnverein-Germania, the Austrian Verein and the Schwabenverein joined +hands and voices, the Germans celebrated their advancement by +festivities long to be remembered, ex-Mayor Henry T. Hazard making the +chief address; but I dare say that the assembly particularly enjoyed +the reminiscences of the pioneer President, Jake Kuhrts, who took his +hearers back to the olden days of the Round House (that favorite +rendezvous which stood on the very spot where the new building was to +rise) and pointed out how Time had tenderly and appropriately joined +the associations of the Past with those of the Present. Turner Hall, +with its restaurant, brought our German citizens into daily and +friendly intercourse, and long served their rapidly-developing +community. + +How true it is that a man should confine himself to that which he best +understands is shown in the case of L. J. Rose, who later went into +politics, and in 1887 was elected State Senator. Neglecting his +business for that of the public, he borrowed money and was finally +compelled to dispose of his interest in the New York house. Indeed, +financially speaking, he went from bad to worse; and the same year he +sold his magnificent estate to an English syndicate for $1,250,000, +receiving $750,000 in cash and the balance in stock. The purchasers +made a failure of the enterprise and Rose lost $500,000. He was almost +penniless when on May 17th, 1899, he died--a suicide. + +Rose was an indefatigable worker for the good of the community, and +was thoroughly interested in every public movement. For years he was +one of my intimate friends; and as I write these lines, I am moved +with sentiments of sadness and deep regret. Let us hope that, in the +life beyond, he is enjoying that peace denied him here. + +The Los Angeles & San Gabriel Valley Railroad, begun the previous year +by J. F. Crank and destined to be absorbed by the Santa Fé, was opened +for traffic to Pasadena on September 17th by a popular excursion in +which thousands participated. + +With the increase in the number and activity of the Chinese here, came +a more frequent display of their native customs and ceremonies, the +joss house and the theater being early instituted. On October 21st, a +street parade, feast and theatrical performance with more or less +barbarous music marked a celebration that brought Mongolians from near +and far. + +On October 24th, Cardinal Gibbons made his first visit to Los +Angeles--the most notable call, I believe, of so eminent a prelate +since my settling here. + +One of the numerous fires of the eighties that gave great alarm was +the blaze of October 28th, which destroyed the Santa Fé Railroad depot +and with it a trainload of oil. The conflagration proved obstinate to +fight, although the good work of the department prevented its spread. +A host of people for hours watched the spectacular scene. + +The Raymond Hotel, commonly spoken of as belonging to Pasadena +although standing just inside the city to the south, was completed in +November; and catering exclusively to tourists, its situation on an +eminent knoll overlooking the towns and orange-groves contributed to +make it widely famous. In April, 1895, it was swept by fire, to be +rebuilt on larger and finer lines. The hotel La Pintoresca, on Fair +Oaks Avenue, burned four or five years ago, was another Pasadena +hostelry, where I often stopped when wishing to escape the hurly-burly +of city life. Now its site and gardens have been converted into a +public park. + +In November, following the efforts made by the Board of Trade to +secure one of the veterans' homes projected by Congress, the managers +of the National Home for Disabled Volunteer Soldiers visited Los +Angeles. A committee, representing business men and the Grand Army, +showed the visitors around; and as a result of the coöperation of +General Nelson A. Miles, Judge Brunson (representing Senator Jones) +and others, three hundred acres of the old San Vicente _rancho_ were +donated by the Jones and Baker estates and the Santa Monica Land and +Water Company, as were also three hundred acres of the Wolfskill +Tract. Orchards were laid out, and barracks, chapel, hospital and +extra buildings for a thousand men erected. Near this worthy +institution, housing as it now does more than two thousand veterans, +has developed and prospered--thanks to the patronage of these soldiers +and their families--the little town of Sawtelle. + +In November, local Democratic and Republican leaders, wishing to +draft a new charter for Los Angeles, agreed on a non-partisan Board +consisting of William H. Workman, Cameron E. Thom, I. R. Dunkelberger, +Dr. Joseph Kurtz, Walter S. Moore, Jeremiah Baldwin, General John +Mansfield, P. M. Scott, J. H. Book, José G. Estudillo, Charles E. Day, +Thomas B. Brown, W. W. Robinson, A. F. Mackey and George H. Bonebrake; +and the following 31st of May the Board was duly elected. Workman was +chosen Chairman and Moore, Secretary; and on October 20th the result +of their deliberations was adopted by the City. In January, 1889, the +Legislature confirmed the action of the Common Council. The new +charter increased the number of wards from five to nine, and provided +for the election of a councilman from each ward. + +As the result of an agitation in favor of Los Angeles, the Southwest +headquarters of the United States Army were transferred from Whipple +Barracks, Arizona, about the beginning of 1887, the event being +celebrated by a dinner to Brigadier-General Nelson A. Miles, at the +Nadeau Hotel. Within less than a year, however, General Miles was +transferred to San Francisco, General B. H. Grierson succeeding him at +this post. + +FOOTNOTES: + +[40] Largely destroyed by fire, November 29th, 1915. + +[41] Bearing the name of Frank McCoy, who died on March 4th, 1915. + + + + +CHAPTER XXXIX + +PROPOSED STATE DIVISION + +1888-1891 + + +By agreement among property owners, the widening of Fort Street from +Second to Ninth began in February, 1888. This was not accomplished +without serious opposition, many persons objecting to the change on +the ground that it would ruin the appearance of their bordering lots. +I was one of those, I am frank to say, who looked with disfavor on the +innovation; but time has shown that it was an improvement, the widened +street (now known as Broadway), being perhaps the only fine business +avenue of which Los Angeles can boast. + +Booth and Barrett, the famous tragedians, visited Los Angeles together +this winter, giving a notable performance in Child's Opera House, +their combined genius showing to greatest advantage in the +presentation of _Julius Cæsar_ and _Othello_. + +Toward the end of the seventies, I dipped into an amusing volume, _The +Rise and Fall of the Mustache_, by Robert J. Burdette--then associated +with the _Burlington Hawkeye_--little thinking that a decade later +would find the author famous and a permanent resident of Southern +California.[42] His wife, Clara Bradley Burdette, whom he married in +1899 and who is well known as a clubwoman, has been associated with +him in many local activities. + +George Wharton James, an Englishman, also took up his residence in +Southern California in 1888, finally settling in Pasadena, although +seven years previously he had been an interested visitor in Los Angeles. +James has traveled much in the Southwest; and besides lecturing, he has +written ten or twelve volumes dealing in a popular manner with the +Spanish Missions and kindred subjects. + +Through the publication by D. Appleton & Company of one of the early +books of value dealing with our section of the State, progress was +made, in the late eighties, in durably advertising the Coast. This +volume was entitled, _California of the South_; and as a +scientifically-prepared guide was written by two fellow-townsmen, Drs. +Walter Lindley and J. P. Widney. + +Very shortly after their coming to Los Angeles, in April, 1888, I had +the pleasure of meeting Mr. and Mrs. Tomás Lorenzo Duque with whom I +have since been on terms of intimacy. Mr. Duque, a Cuban by birth, is +a broad-minded, educated gentleman of the old school. + +Frederick William Braun established on May 1st, at 127 New High +Street, the first exclusively wholesale drug house in Southern +California, later removing to 287 North Main Street, once the site of +the adobe in which I was married. + +The same season my brother, whose health had become precarious, was +again compelled to take a European trip; and it was upon his return in +September, 1890, that he settled in Los Angeles, building his home at +1043 South Grand Avenue, but a few doors from mine. + +The coast-line branch of the Santa Fé Railroad was opened in August +between Los Angeles and San Diego. + +W. E. Hughes has been credited with suggesting the second and present +Chamber of Commerce, and J. F. Humphreys is said to have christened it +when it was organized on October 15th. E. W. Jones was the first +President and Thomas A. Lewis the first Secretary. In addition to +these, S. B. Lewis, Colonel H. G. Otis, J. V. Wachtel (a son-in-law of +L. J. Rose), Colonel I. R. Dunkelberger and William H. Workman are +entitled to a great deal of credit for the movement. So well known is +this institution, even internationally, and so much has been written +about it, that I need hardly speak of its remarkable and honorable +part in developing Southern California and all of the Southland's most +valuable resources. + +Late in the fall the Los Angeles Theater, a neat brick edifice, was +opened on Spring Street, between Second and Third. At that time, other +places of amusement were the Childs or Grand Opera House, Mott Hall, +over Mott Market--an unassuming room without stage facilities, where +Adelina Patti once sang, and where Charles Dickens, Jr., gave a +reading from his father's books--and Hazard's Pavilion at Fifth and +Olive, built on the present site of the Temple Auditorium by Mayor H. +T. Hazard and his associate, George H. Pike. During the Boom +especially and for a few years thereafter (as when in 1889, Evangelist +Moody held forth), this latter place was very popular; and among +celebrities who lectured there was Thomas Nast, _Harpers'_ great +cartoonist, who had so much to do with bringing Boss Tweed to justice. +As Nast lectured, he gave interesting exhibitions of his genius to +illustrate what he had to say; and many of his sketches were very +effective. Doubtless alluding to the large audience gathered to do him +honor, the artist said: "Ladies and Gentlemen, I will now show you how +to draw a big house," whereupon he rapidly sketched one. + +On the morning of October 21st, the _Los Angeles Times_ created one of +the most noted surprises in the history of American politics, making +public the so-called Murchison letters, through which the British +diplomat Lord Sackville West, caught strangely napping, was recalled +in disgrace from his eminent post as British Minister to Washington. +In 1882, George Osgoodby located at Pomona. Though of English +grandparents, Osgoodby possessed a strong Republican bias; and wishing +to test the attitude of the Administration toward Great Britain, he +formed the scheme of fathoming Cleveland's purpose even at the British +Minister's expense. Accordingly, on September 4th, 1888--in the midst +of the Presidential campaign--he addressed Lord West, signing himself +Charles F. Murchison and pretending that he was still a loyal though +naturalized Englishman needing advice as to how to vote. "Murchison" +reminded his lordship that, just as a small State had defeated +Tilden, so "a mere handful of naturalized countrymen might easily +carry California." The British Minister was betrayed by the plausible +words; and on September 13th he answered the Pomona farmer, at the +same time indicating his high regard for Cleveland as a friend of +England. Osgoodby gave the correspondence publicity through the +_Times_; and instantly the letters were telegraphed throughout America +and to England, where they made as painful an impression as they had +caused jubilation or anger in this country. How, as a consequence, +diplomatic relations between America and England were for a while +broken off, is familiar history. + +During the winter of 1888-89, Alfred H. and Albert K. Smiley, twin +brothers who had amassed a fortune through successful hotel management +at summer-resorts in the mountains of New York, came to California and +purchased about two hundred acres near Redlands, situated on a ridge +commanding a fine view of San Timoteo Cañon; and there they laid out +the celebrated Cañon Crest Park, more popularly known as Smiley +Heights. They also gave the community a public library. On account of +their connections, they were able to attract well-to-do settlers and +tourists to their neighborhood and so contribute, in an important way, +to the development and fame of Redlands. + +The City Hall was erected, during the years 1888-89, on the east side +of Broadway between Second and Third streets on property once +belonging to L. H. Titus. As a detail indicating the industrial +conditions of that period, I may note that John Hanlon, the +contractor, looked with pride upon the fact that he employed as many +as thirty to forty workmen and all at one time! + +Another effort in the direction of separating this part of California +from the northern section was made in December, 1888 and here received +enthusiastic support. General William Vandever, then a representative +in Congress from the Sixth District, introduced into that body a +resolution providing for a State to be called South California. Soon +after, a mass meeting was held in Hazard's Pavilion, and a campaign +was opened with an Executive Committee to further the movement; +but--California is still, and I hope will long continue to be, a +splendid undivided territory. + +On January 1st, 1889, Pasadena held her first Rose Tournament. There +were chariot races and other sports, but the principal event was a +parade of vehicles of every description which, moving along under the +graceful burden of their beautiful floral decorations, presented a +magnificent and typically Southern California winter sight. The +tournament was so successful that it has become an annual event +participated in by many and attracting visitors from near and far. It +is managed by a permanent organization, the Tournament of Roses +Association, whose members in 1904 presented Tournament Park, one of +the City's pleasure-grounds, to Pasadena. + +Once outdistanced by both Main and Spring streets, and yet more and +more rising to importance as the city grew, Fort Street--a name with +an historical significance--in 1889 was officially called Broadway. + +Fred L. Baker, who reached Los Angeles with his father, Milo Baker in +1874, designed in 1889, and when he was but twenty-four years of age, +the first locomotive built in Los Angeles. It was constructed at the +Baker Iron Works for the Los Angeles County Railroad, and was dubbed +the _Providencia_; and when completed it weighed fifteen tons. + +On February 16th, Jean Louis Sainsevain, everywhere pleasantly known +as Don Louis, died here, aged seventy-three years. + +I have spoken of L. J. Rose's love for thoroughbred horses. His most +notable possession was _Stamboul_, the celebrated stallion, which he +sold for fifty thousand dollars. At Rose Meade, toward the end of the +eighties, there were about a hundred and twenty pedigreed horses; and +at a sale in 1889 fifty of these brought one hundred and ninety +thousand dollars. This reminds me that early in April, the same year, +Nicolás Covarrúbias (in whose stable on Los Angeles Street, but a +short time before, nearly a hundred horses had perished by fire) sold +_Gladstone_ to L. H. Titus for twenty-five hundred dollars. + +General Volney E. Howard died in May, aged eighty years, just ten +years after he had concluded his last notable public service as a +member of the State Constitutional Convention. + +One of those who well illustrate the constant search for the ideal is +Dr. Joseph Kurtz. In the spring of 1889 he toured Europe to inspect +clinics and hospitals; and inspired by what he had seen, he helped, on +his return, to more firmly establish the Medical College of Los +Angeles, later and now a branch of the University of California. + +In 1889, I built another residence at 1051 South Grand Avenue, and +there we lived for several years. As in the case of our Fort Street +home, in which four of our children died, so here again joy changed to +sorrow when, on November 18th, 1890, our youngest daughter, Josephine +Rose, was taken from us at the age of eight years. + +The Los Angeles Public Library was once more moved in July from the +Downey Block to the City Hall where, with some six thousand books and +about one hundred and thirty members, it remained until April, 1906, +when it was transferred by Librarian Charles F. Lummis to the Annex of +the Laughlin Building. It then had over one hundred thousand volumes. +In the fall of 1908, it was removed to the new Hamburger Building. + +Colonel James G. Eastman, who arrived in Los Angeles during the late +sixties, associated himself with Anson Brunson in the practice of law +and, as a cultured and aristocratic member of the Bar, became well +known. For the centennial celebration here he was chosen to deliver +the oration; yet thirteen years later he died in the County Poorhouse, +having in the meantime sunk to the lowest depths of degradation. +Drinking himself literally into the gutter, he lost his self-respect +and finally married a common squaw. + +The early attempts to create another county, of which Anaheim was to +have been the seat, are known. In 1889, the struggle for division was +renewed, but under changed conditions. Santa Ana, now become an +important town and nearer the heart of the proposed new county, was +the more logical center; but although Anaheim had formerly strongly +advocated the separation, she now opposed it. The Legislature, +however, authorized the divorce, and the citizens chose Santa Ana as +their county seat; and thus on August 1st, Orange County began its +independence. + +Although the cable lines on Second and Temple streets were not +unqualified successes, J. F. Crank and Herman Silver in 1887 obtained +a franchise for the construction of a double-track cable railway in +Los Angeles, and in 1889 both the Boyle Heights and the Downey Avenue +lines were in operation. On August 3d, 1889, the Boyle Heights section +of the Los Angeles Cable Railway was inaugurated with a luncheon at +the Power House--invitations to which had been sent out by the Boyle +Heights Board of Trade, William H. Workman, President--preceded by a +parade of cars; and on November 2d, the official opening with its +procession of trains on the Downey Avenue line culminated, at noon, +with speech-making at the Downey Avenue Bridge, and in the evening +with a sham battle and fireworks. Some old-timers took part in the +literary exercises, and among others I may mention Mayor Henry T. +Hazard, Dr. J. S. Griffin, General R. H. Chapman and the +Vice-President and Superintendent of the system, J. C. Robinson. The +East Los Angeles line started at Jefferson Street, ran north on Grand +Avenue to Seventh, east on Seventh to Broadway, north on Broadway to +First, east on First to Spring, north on Spring to the Plaza, down San +Fernando Street, then on the viaduct built over the Southern Pacific +tracks and thence out Downey Avenue. The Boyle Heights line started on +Seventh Street at Alvarado, ran along Seventh to Broadway, up Broadway +to First and east on that street to the junction of First and Chicago +streets. Quite a million dollars, it is said, was invested in the +machinery and tracks--so soon to give way to the more practicable +electric trolley trams--to say nothing of the expenditures for rolling +stock; and for the time being the local transportation problem seemed +solved, although the cars first used were open, without glass +windows, and the passengers in bad weather were protected only by +curtains sliding up and down. To further celebrate the accomplishment, +a banquet was given Colonel J. C. Robinson on December 18th, 1889. +Herman Silver, to whom I have just referred, had not only an +interesting association as a friend of Lincoln, but was a splendid +type of citizen. He achieved distinction in many activities, but +especially as President of the City Council. + + [Illustration: George W. Burton] + + [Illustration: Ben C. Truman] + + [Illustration: Charles F. Lummis] + + [Illustration: Charles Dwight Willard] + + [Illustration: Grand Avenue Residence (left), Harris Newmark, 1889] + +On November 4th, Bernard Cohn, one of the originators of Hellman, Haas +& Company (now Haas, Baruch & Company, the well-known grocers), and a +pioneer of 1856, died. During the late seventies and early eighties, +he was a man of much importance, both as a merchant and a City Father, +sitting in the Council of 1888 and becoming remarkably well-read in +the ordinances and decrees of the Los Angeles of his day. + +Like Abbot Kinney, Dr. Norman Bridge, an authority on tuberculosis, +came to Sierra Madre in search of health, in 1890; lived for a while +after that at Pasadena, and finally settled in Los Angeles. Five or +six years after he arrived here, Dr. Bridge began to invest in +Californian and Mexican oil and gas properties. Despite his busy life, +he has found time to further higher culture, having served as Trustee +of the Throop Institute and as President of the Southwest Museum, to +both of which institutions he has made valuable contributions; while +he has published two scholarly volumes of essays and addresses. + +Thomas Edward Gibbon who, since his arrival in 1888, has influenced +some of the most important movements for the benefit of Los Angeles, +and whose activities have been so diversified, in 1890 bought the +_Daily Herald_, becoming for several years the President of its +organization and its managing editor. During his incumbency, Gibbon +filled the columns with mighty interesting reading. + +After living in Los Angeles thirty years and having already achieved +much, I. W. Hellman moved to San Francisco on March 2d, 1890, and +there reorganized the Nevada Bank. Still a resident of the northern +city, he has become a vital part of its life and preëminent in its +financial affairs. + +Judge Walter Van Dyke was here in the early fifties, although it was +some years before I knew him; and I am told that at that time he +almost concluded a partnership with Judge Hayes for the practice of +law. He was Judge of the Superior Court when the City of Los Angeles +claimed title--while I was President of the Temple Block Company--to +about nine feet of the north end of Temple Block. The instigator of +this suit was Louis Mesmer, who saw the advantage that would accrue to +his property, at the corner of Main and Requena streets, if the square +should be enlarged; but we won the case. A principal witness for us +was José Mascarel, and our attorneys were Stephen M. White and +Houghton, Silent & Campbell. My second experience with Judge Van Dyke +was in 1899, when I bought a lot from him at Santa Monica. This +attempt to enlarge the area at the junction reminds me of the days +when the young folks of that neighborhood used to play tag and other +games there. Baseball, here called town-ball, was another game +indulged in at that place. + +Temple Block came to be known as Lawyer's Block because the upper +floors were largely given over to members of that profession; and many +of the attorneys I have had occasion to speak of as being here after +our acquisition of the building had their headquarters there. Thus I +became acquainted with Judge Charles Silent who, like his partner, +Sherman Otis Houghton, hailed from San José in 1886, or possibly 1885, +the two doubtless coming together. Judge Houghton brought with him a +reputation for great physical and moral courage; and the two friends +formed with Alexander Campbell the law firm of Houghton, Silent & +Campbell. Judge Charles Silent, a native of Baden, Germany (born +Stumm, a name Englished on naturalization), father of Edward D. Silent +and father-in-law of Frank J. Thomas, once served as Supreme Court +Judge in Arizona, to which office he was appointed by President Hayes; +and since his arrival here, he has occupied a position of prime +importance, not only on account of his qualifications as an attorney +but also through the invaluable service he has always rendered this +community. The judge now possesses a splendid orange orchard near the +foothills, where he is passing his declining years. In the same way I +had pleasant relations with the barrister, C. White Mortimer, for a +long time the popular English Vice-consul, who came from Toronto. +Among other attorneys whom it was a pleasure to know were Aurelius W. +Hutton; John D. Bicknell (once a partner of Stephen M. White); J. H. +Blanchard; Albert M. Stephens; General John Mansfield (who, by the +way, was the first Lieutenant-Governor under the Constitution of +1879); Thomas B. Brown, District Attorney from 1880 until 1882; Will +D. Gould; Julius Brousseau; J. R. Dupuy, twice District Attorney; and +General J. R. McConnell. Most of these gentlemen were here before +1880. On the twentieth of January, 1889, M. L. Graff, a practicing +attorney, reached Los Angeles, and until my family broke up +housekeeping, he was a regular and welcome visitor in my home. + +Ferdinand K. Rule came to Southern California in 1890 and soon after +associated himself with the old Los Angeles Terminal Railroad. He was +a whole-souled, generous man, and was henceforth identified with +nearly every movement for the welfare of his adopted city. + +Charles Dudley Warner, the distinguished American author, revisited +Los Angeles in May, 1890, having first come here in March, three years +before, while roughing it on a tour through California described in +his book, _On Horseback_, published in 1888. On his second trip, +Warner, who was editor of _Harper's Magazine_, came ostensibly in the +service of the Harpers, that firm later issuing his appreciative and +well-illustrated volume, _Our Italy_, in which he suggested certain +comparisons between Southern California and Southern Europe; but the +Santa Fé Railroad Company, then particularly desirous of attracting +Easterners to the Coast, really sent out the author, footing most if +not all of the bills. Mrs. Custer, widow of the General, was another +guest of the Santa Fé; and she also wrote about Southern California +for periodicals in the East. + +News of the death, in New York City, of General John C. Frémont was +received here the day after, on July 14th, and caused profound +regret. + +In the fall, Henry H. Markham stood for the governorship of California +and was elected, defeating ex-Mayor Pond of San Francisco by a +majority of about eight thousand votes--thereby enabling the Southland +to boast of having again supplied the foremost dignitary of the State. + +After several years of post-graduate study in higher institutions of +learning in Germany, Leo Newmark, son of J. P. Newmark, in 1887 +received his degree of Doctor of Medicine from the University of +Strassburg. He then served in leading European hospitals, returning in +1890 to his native city, San Francisco, where he has attained much +more than local eminence in his specialty, the diseases of the nerves. + +The public pleasure-grounds later known as Hollenbeck Park were given +to the City, in 1890-91, by William H. Workman and Mrs. J. E. +Hollenbeck, Workman donating two-thirds and Mrs. Hollenbeck one-third +of the land. Workman also laid out the walks and built the dam before +the transfer to the City authorities. Mrs. Hollenbeck suggested the +title, Workman-Hollenbeck Park; but Billy's proverbial modesty led him +to omit his own name. At about the same time, Mrs. Hollenbeck, +recognizing the need of a refuge for worthy old people, and wishing to +create a fitting memorial to her husband (who had died in 1885), +endowed the Hollenbeck Home with thirteen and a half acres in the +Boyle Heights district; to maintain which, she deeded, in trust to +John D. Bicknell, John M. Elliott, Frank A. Gibson, Charles L. +Batcheller and J. S. Chapman, several valuable properties, the most +notable being the Hollenbeck Hotel and a block on Broadway near +Seventh. + +More than once I have referred to the Chino Ranch, long the home of +pioneer Isaac Williams. In his most extravagant dreams, he could not +have foreseen that, in the years 1890-91 there would grow on many of +his broad acres the much-needed sugar-beet; nor could he have known +that the first factory in the Southland to extract sugar from that +source would be erected in a town bearing the name of Chino. The +inauguration of this important activity in Southern California was due +to Henry T. and Robert Oxnard, the last-named then being engaged in +cane-sugar refining in San Francisco. Henry T., who had previously +ventured in the beet-sugar field in Nebraska, while on the Coast was +impressed with the possibilities in our soil and climate; and after a +survey of the State, he reached the conclusion that of all California +the South offered the conditions most favorable to his plans. +Accordingly, he entered into negotiations with Richard Gird, then the +owner of the Chino Ranch, who made some preliminary experiments; and +the outcome was the factory started there in the season of 1890-91, +under the superintendency of Dr. Portius, a German agricultural +chemist. In this initial enterprise the Oxnards met with such success +that they extended their operations, in 1898 establishing a second and +larger factory in Ventura County, in what soon came to be called +Oxnard, Dr. Portius again taking charge. + +Five or six years after the Oxnards opened their Chino factory, J. +Ross Clark and his brother, Senator William A. Clark, commenced the +erection of a plant at Alamitos; and in the summer of 1897, the first +beets there were sliced, under the superintendency of G. S. Dyer, now +in Honolulu. Since then, under a protective policy, several more +refineries have started up in the neighborhood of Los Angeles. + +In January, 1891, the Home of Peace Society was organized by the +Hebrew ladies of Los Angeles, largely through the exertions of Mrs. M. +Kremer, who was the first to conceive the idea of uniting Jewish women +for the purpose of properly caring for and beautifying the last +resting-place of their dead. + +Amos G. Throop, of Chicago, more familiarly known among his friends +and fellow-citizens as Father Throop, founded at Pasadena in 1891 the +institution at first called Throop University and now known as the +Throop College of Technology, giving it two hundred thousand dollars +and becoming its first President. The next year, when it was decided +to specialize in manual training and polytechnic subjects, the name +was again changed--remaining, until 1913, Throop Polytechnic +Institute. + +The Southern California Science Association, later called the Southern +California Academy of Science, was organized in 1891 with Dr. A. +Davidson as its first President, and Mrs. Mary E. Hart as Secretary. +For five years, it struggled for existence; but having been +reorganized and incorporated in 1896, it has steadily become a factor +for intellectual progress. + +The Friday Morning Club began its existence in April, 1891, as one of +the social forces in the city, many of the leading lecturers of the +country finding a place on its platform; and in 1899 the Club built +its present attractive home on Figueroa Street. + +As far as I was familiar with the facts, I have endeavored in these +recollections to emphasize the careers of those who from little have +builded much, and quite naturally think of William Dennison Stephens +whom I came to know through his association as a salesman from 1891 +until 1902 with M. A. Newmark & Company, after which he engaged with +J. E. Carr on Broadway, between Sixth and Seventh streets, in the +retail grocery business. Much of his success I attribute to honest, +steady purpose and a winning geniality. By leaps and bounds, Stephens +has advanced--in 1907 to the presidency of the Chamber of Commerce; in +1908 to the grand commandership of Knights Templars in California; in +1909 to the mayoralty of Los Angeles; and in 1910 to one of the +advisory committee for the building of the aqueduct. At present, he is +the Congressman from the Tenth Congressional District. + +Three years before Congressman Stephens entered the employ of the +Newmarks, Robert L. Craig had just severed his relations with them to +form, with R. H. Howell of Louisiana, the third wholesale grocery +house to come to Los Angeles. In the course of a few years, Howell & +Craig sold out; but Craig, being young and ambitious, was not long in +organizing another wholesale grocery known as Craig & Stuart, which +was succeeded by R. L. Craig & Company. At Craig's untimely death, +Mrs. Craig, a woman of unusual mental talent, took the reins and, as +one of the few women wholesale grocers in the country, has since +guided the destinies of the concern; still finding time, in her +arduous life, to serve the public as a very wide-awake member of the +Board of Education. + +Four other names of those once associated with my successors and who +have been instrumental in establishing important commercial houses +here are, P. A., a brother of M. A. Newmark; E. J. Levy; Frank +Humphreys, now deceased; and D. Wiebers. The first-named, for some +years connected with Brownstein, Newmark & Louis--now Brownstein & +Louis--inaugurated and is at the head of P. A. Newmark & Company; +while Levy, Humphreys and Wiebers incorporated the Standard Wooden +Ware Company. + +In 1891, the Terminal Railroad was completed from Los Angeles to East +San Pedro, and rapid connection was thus established between Pasadena +and the ocean, the accomplishment being celebrated, on November 14th, +by an excursion. The road ran _via_ Long Beach and Rattlesnake, later +known as Terminal Island--a place that might become, it was hoped, the +terminus of one of the great transcontinental railroads; and since the +island is now the end of the San Pedro, Los Angeles & Salt Lake +Railroad, that hope has been realized. It was in connection with this +railway enterprise that Long Beach made the great mistake of giving +away the right of thoroughfare along her ocean front. + +FOOTNOTE: + +[42] Dr. Burdette died on November 19th, 1914. + + + + +CHAPTER XL + +THE FIRST _FIESTAS_ + +1892-1897 + + +Accompanied by my family, I traveled to Alaska, in 1892, going as far +as Muir Glacier and visiting, among other places, Metlakahtla (where +we met Father William Duncan, the famous missionary and _Arctander_), +Sitka, Juneau and the Treadwell Mines, near which the town of +Treadwell has since developed. To-day, the tourist starts from +Seattle; but we left Tacoma, sailing north about the seventh of July. +I found much to inspire me in that rather extreme portion of the +globe, where I was profoundly impressed with the vast forests and +colossal rivers of ice, so emblematic of Nature's law of eternal +change. Our party was especially fortunate in witnessing the rare +sight of huge masses of ice as, with sound of thunder, they broke from +the glacier and floated away, brilliantly-tinted bergs, to an +independent, if passing, existence. + +Having arrived in the Bay of Sitka, our ship, the _Queen of the +Pacific_, struck a submerged rock. Instantly excitement and even +frenzy prevailed. Levi Z. Leiter, a member of the firm of Field, +Leiter & Company of Chicago, was so beside himself with fear that he +all but caused a panic, whereupon the Captain ordered the First Mate +to put the Chicagoan and his family ashore. Leiter, however, was +shamed by his daughter, Miss Mary Victoria--afterward Lady Curzon and +wife of the Viceroy of India--who admonished him not to make a scene; +and having no desire to be left for a protracted stay in Sitka, he +came to his senses and the commotion somewhat abated. + +Meantime, not knowing how much damage had been done to the vessel, I +hastily proceeded to gather our party together, when I missed Marco +and only after considerable trouble found the boy in the cabin--such +is the optimism of youth--with a huge sandwich in his hand, not in the +least excited over the possible danger nor in any mood to allow a +little incident of that kind to dissipate his appetite. When it became +evident that the ship had sustained no vital damage, the Captain +announced that as soon as a higher tide would permit we should proceed +on our way. + +In 1892, Abbot Kinney and F. G. Ryan, disregarding the craze for +property along the bluffs of old Santa Monica, gave practical evidence +of their faith in the future of the sand dunes hereabouts by buying an +extensive strip of land on the ocean-front, some of it being within +the town of Santa Monica but most of it stretching farther south. They +induced the Santa Fé to lay out a route to Ocean Park as the new town +was to be called; and having erected piers, a bath house and an +auditorium, they built numerous cottages. Hardly was this enterprise +well under way, however, when Ryan died and T. H. Dudley acquired his +share in the undertaking. In 1901, A. R. Fraser, G. M. Jones and H. R. +Gage purchased Dudley's half interest; and the owners began to put the +lots on the market. One improvement after another was made, involving +heavy expenditures; and in 1904, Ocean Park was incorporated as a +city. + +E. L. Doheny and a partner had the good luck to strike some of the +first oil found in quantities within the city limits. They began +operations in February on West State Street, in the very residence +section of the town; and at about one hundred and sixty feet below the +surface, they found oil enough to cause general excitement. Mrs. Emma +A. Summers, who had been dealing in real estate since she came in +1881, quickly sank a well on Court Street near Temple which in a short +time produced so lavishly that Mrs. Summers became one of the largest +individual operators in crude oil. She is now known as the Oil Queen. + +At the suggestion of Mrs. M. Burton Williamson, an interesting +open-air meeting of the Los Angeles Historical Society was held on the +evening of March 28th at the residence of Don António and Doña Mariana +Coronel, near the corner of Central Avenue and Seventh Street. Three +hundred guests assembled to enjoy the proverbial Spanish hospitality +of this distinguished couple, and to hear reports of the activities of +various Los Angeles societies. Don António possessed, as is well +known, valuable historical and ethnological collections; and some of +his choicest curios were that evening placed at the service of his +guests. Professor Ira More participated, presiding at a table once +used by the first Constitutional Governor, Echeandia, and I still +recall the manner in which António chuckled when he told us how he had +swapped "four gentle cows" for the piece of furniture; while, instead +of a gavel, Señora Coronel had provided a bell long used to summon the +Indians to Mission service. + +As early as the height of the great Boom, Professor T. S. C. Lowe (to +whom I have referred in the story of an experiment in making gas) +advocated the construction of a railroad up the mountain later +officially designated Mt. Lowe; and almost immediately financiers +acted on the proposal and ordered the route surveyed. The collapse of +the Boom, however, then made the financing of the project impossible; +and the actual work of building the road was begun only in 1892. On +the Fourth of July of the following year, the first car carrying a +small party of invited guests successfully ascended the incline; and +on August 23d the railway was formally opened to the public, the +occasion being made a holiday. In 1894, the Mt. Lowe Astronomical +Observatory was built. At one time, the railway was owned by Valentine +Peyton, my agreeable neighbor and friend then and now residing on +Westlake Avenue. + +In June, 1893, the Los Angeles Post Office was moved from its location +at Broadway near Sixth Street to the National Government Building at +the southeast corner of Main and Winston streets, which had just been +completed at a cost of one hundred and fifty thousand dollars. + +Seized with the same desire that animated many thousands who +journeyed to Chicago, I visited the World's Fair in the fall of 1893. +Everywhere I was impressed with the extraordinary progress made, +especially by Americans, since the display in Philadelphia; and I was +naturally proud of the exhibits from California in charge of my +fellow-townsman, Ben Truman. + +Russell Judson Waters, a well-known banker and member of Congress from +the Sixth District between 1899 and 1903, came from Redlands in 1894 +and another Southern Californian who has turned his attention to +literary endeavor: his novel, _El Estranjero_, dealing with past local +life. + +Joseph Scott, who has risen to distinction in the California legal +world, alighted in Los Angeles in June, having tried without success +to obtain newspaper work in Boston, in 1887, although equipped with a +letter of introduction from John Boyle O'Reilly. In New York, with +only two dollars in his pocket, he was compelled to shoulder a hod; +but relief came: as Scott himself jovially tells the story, he was +carrying mortar and brick on a Tuesday in February, 1890, and but two +days later he faced a body of students at St. Bonaventura's College in +Allegany, New York, as instructor in rhetoric! Within ten months after +Scott came to Southern California, he was admitted to practice at the +Los Angeles Bar; and since then he has been President of the Chamber +of Commerce. He is now a member of the Board of Education, and all in +all his services to the commonwealth have been many and important. + +The existence of the Merchants' Association, which was organized in +1893 with W. C. Furrey as President and William Bien (succeeded the +following year by Jacob E. Waldeck, son-in-law of Samuel Hellman) as +Secretary, was somewhat precarious until 1894. In that year, Los +Angeles was suffering a period of depression, and a meeting was called +to devise ways and means for alleviating the economic ills of the city +and also for attracting to Los Angeles some of the visitors to the +Midwinter Fair then being held in San Francisco. At that meeting, Max +Meyberg, a member of the Association's executive committee, suggested +a carnival; and the plan being enthusiastically endorsed, the coming +occasion was dubbed _La Fiesta de Los Angeles_. Meyberg was appointed +Director-General; and the following persons, among others, were +associated with him in the undertaking: Mayor T. E. Rowan, F. W. Wood, +R. W. Pridham, H. Jevne, J. O. Koepfli, Leon Loeb, H. T. Hazard, +Charles S. Walton and M. H. Newmark. + +The _Fiesta_ lasted from the 10th to the 13th of April and proved a +delightful affair. The participants marched in costume to the City +Hall during a meeting of the Council, usurped the Government, elected +a Queen--Mrs. O. W. Childs, Jr.--to preside over the destinies of the +City during the _Fiesta_ and communicated to everybody a spirit of +uncontrollable enthusiasm based on a feeling of the most genuine +patriotic sentiment. The result was thoroughly successful, the +carnival bringing out the real Californian fellowship--whole-souled +and ringing true. Indeed, it is conceded by all who have seen Los +Angeles grow, that this first _Fiesta_ and the resulting strengthening +of the Association have been among the earliest and, in some respects, +the most important elements contributory to the wonderful growth and +development of our city. A few evenings after the conclusion of the +celebration, and while the streets were brilliantly illuminated with +Bengal fire, the leaders again marched in a body, this time to the +hall over Mott Market, where they not only laid plans for the second +_Fiesta_, but installed J. O. Koepfli as President of the Merchants' +Association. + +So enthusiastic had the citizens of Los Angeles really become that in +the years 1895 and 1896 the _Fiesta_ was repeated and many prominent +people supported the original committee, assisting to make the second +festival almost equal to the first. Among these patrons were John +Alton, Hancock Banning, W. A. Barker, A. C. Bilicke, L. W. Blinn, W. +C. Bluett, R. W. Burnham, John M. Crawley, James Cuzner, J. H. +Dockweiler, T. A. Eisen, J. A. Foshay, John F. Francis, A. W. +Francisco, H. W. Frank, Dan Freeman, Mrs. Jessie Benton Frémont, W. M. +Garland, T. E. Gibbon, J. T. Griffith, Harley Hamilton, R. H. Howell, +Sumner P. Hunt, A. Jacoby, General E. P. Johnson, John Kahn, F. W. +King, Abbot Kinney, E. F. C. Klokke, J. Kuhrts, Dr. Carl Kurtz, J. B. +Lankershim, General C. F. A. Last, S. B. Lewis, H. Lichtenberger, +Charles F. Lummis, Simon Maier, D. C. McGarvin, John R. Mathews, James +J. Mellus, L. E. Mosher, Walter S. Newhall, J. W. A. Off, Colonel H. +Z. Osborne, Colonel H. G. Otis, Madison T. Owens, W. C. Patterson, +Niles Pease, A. Petsch, John E. Plater, R. W. Pridham, Judge E. M. +Ross, F. K. Rule, Frank Sabichi, J. T. Sheward, Colonel W. G. +Schreiber, John Schumacher, Professor P. W. Search, Edward D. Silent, +Alfredo Solano, George H. Stewart, Frank J. Thomas, D. K. Trask, Ben +C. Truman, I. N. Van Nuys, K. H. Wade, Stephen M. White, Frank +Wiggins, C. D. Willard, Dr. W. Le Moyne Wills, W. B. Wilshire, H. J. +Woollacott and W. D. Woolwine. + +This second _Fiesta_ brought into the local field two men then +unknown, but each destined to play an important part in the affairs of +Los Angeles. J. O. Koepfli, President of the Merchants' Association, +and M. H. Newmark, Chairman of the Finance Committee, selected Felix +J. Zeehandelaar (a reporter for the Los Angeles _Herald_ during the +short ownership of John Bradbury) as financial and publicity agent; +with the result that more than thirty thousand dollars was collected +and valuable advertising was secured. At that time, the Finance +Committee also discovered the undeveloped talent of Lynden Ellsworth +Behymer, since so well known as the impresario, who, in managing with +wonderful success the sale of tickets for the various events, laid the +foundation for his subsequent career. Commencing with Adelina Patti, +there have been few celebrities in the musical world that Behymer's +enterprise has not succeeded in bringing to Los Angeles; his greatest +accomplishment in recent seasons being the booking of the Chicago +Grand Opera Company, in February, 1913, under a guarantee of +eighty-eight thousand dollars. + +Second in chronological order among the larger societies of women, and +doubtless equal to any in the importance of its varied activities, the +Ebell Club was organized in 1894, due time providing itself with a +serviceable and ornate home, within which for years broad courses of +departmental study have been prosecuted with vigor. + +After worshiping for more than fifteen years in the old Synagogue on +Fort Street, and five years more after that name was changed to +Broadway (during which period, from 1881 until I started, in 1887, on +my second European trip, it was my privilege to serve as President of +the Congregation), the reformed Jews of Los Angeles built, in 1894, +the Temple B'nai B'rith on the corner of Hope and Ninth streets. In +the meantime, following the resignation of Dr. A. W. Edelman, in 1886, +Dr. Emanuel Schreiber for two years occupied the pulpit; and then +Reverend A. Blum came from Galveston to succeed him. From the early +part of 1895, Rabbi M. G. Solomon held the office until 1899. It was +during his administration, it may be interesting to observe, and while +Herman W. Hellman was President, that the present Temple was +consecrated. + +In 1894, Homer Laughlin, of Ohio, during a visit purchased from Mrs. +Mary A. Briggs the property on Broadway between Third and Fourth +streets, where she had lived. Three years later, he moved to Los +Angeles and began the erection of the Homer Laughlin fire-proof +building, adding to the same, in 1905, a reinforced concrete annex. + +At midnight, on April 17th, Don António Franco Coronel died at his +home in Los Angeles, aged seventy-seven years. In less than four +months, his life-long friend, Don Pio Pico died here--on September +11th, aged ninety-three years. + +The Belgian hare aberration was a spasmodic craze of the nineties and +when I remember what the little rabbit did to our judgment then, it +brings to mind the black-tulip bubble of Holland though, in point of +genuine foolishness, I should award the prize to the former. A +widely-copied newspaper article, claiming for the flesh of the timid +Belgian rodent extraordinary qualities and merit, led first hundreds, +then thousands, to rig up hare-coops for the breeding of the animal, +expecting to supply the world with its much-lauded meat. Before long, +people abandoned profitable work in order to venture into the new +field, and many were those who invested thousands of dollars in +Belgian hare companies. During the wild excitement attention was also +given to the raising of hares for exhibition, and fancy prices were +paid for the choicest specimens. At last, the bubble burst: the supply +far exceeded the now-diminishing demand and the whole enterprise +collapsed. + +A lively election in 1895 was that which decided the immediate future +of a suburb of Los Angeles where, on April 27th of the same year, Don +Juan Warner, who had lived there with his daughter, Mrs. Rúbio, went +to his rest. This was University Place, in 1880 a mere hamlet, though +three years later it had a post office of its own. In 1895, an effort +was made to annex the community, with Vernon, Rosedale and Pico +Heights; but the measure was defeated, and only on June 12th, 1899 was +the college district annexed to Los Angeles. For some years, the +boundary line of the town at that point followed such a course through +house-lots that residents there, still at home, often ate in the +county and slept within the city! + +The early nineties were full of the spirit of accomplishment, and +notwithstanding the failure of the Electric Homestead Tract +Association and its street car line, already described, a successful +electric railway system for Los Angeles was at length installed. In +1892, a route was laid out to Westlake Park, the company having been +encouraged by a subsidy of fifty thousand dollars pledged by owners of +property most likely to be affected by the service; and by 1895 the +electric traction system was so general that even the bob-tailed cars +on Main Street gave way to the new order of things. At this early +stage in the application of electricity to street cars, some of the +equipment was rather primitive. Wooden poles, for example, were a part +of the trolley; and as they were easily broken, conductors were fined +a dollar for any accident to the rod with which they might have to do! +Electricity--when it was forthcoming at all--was only harnessed to +impel the vehicle; but there were no devices for using the current to +warm the car, and instead of an electric light, an _oil_ lamp, hung +onto the dashboard, faintly illuminated the soft roadbed of the +irregular tracks. The most active promoters of the improvements of +1895 were the two brothers, William Spencer and Thomas J. Hook, who +operated mainly in the southwestern part of the city, developing that +rather sparsely-settled district and introducing what was the best and +most handsome rolling stock seen here up to that time. + +B. F. Coulter, who from 1881 to 1884 had preached here as a clergyman +of the Christian Church, in 1895 built a place of worship at his own +expense, on Broadway near Temple Street, costing twenty thousand +dollars--no inconsiderable sum for that time. + +Sometime in March appeared the first issue of the _Los Angeles +Record_, a one-cent evening paper started by E. W. Scripps as "the +poor man's advocate." It was really another one of the many +enterprising Scripps newspapers scattered throughout the country and +championing, more or less, Socialistic principles; in accordance with +which Scripps, from the outset, distributed some of the stock among +his working associates. At the present time, W. H. Porterfield is the +editor-in-chief, and W. T. Murdoch the editor. + +Thomas J. Scully, a pioneer school teacher who came to Los Angeles the +same year that I did, died here in 1895. For some time Scully was the +only teacher in the county outside of the city, but owing to the +condition of the public treasury he actually divided his time between +three or four schools, giving lessons in each a part of the year. +After a while, the schoolmaster gazed longingly upon a lovely vineyard +and its no less lovely owner; and at last, by marrying the +proprietress, he appropriated both. This sudden capture of wife and +independence, however, was too much for our unsophisticated pedagogue: +Scully entered upon a campaign of intemperance and dissipation; his +spouse soon expelled him from his comfortable surroundings, and he was +again forced to earn his own living with birch and book. + +Inoffensive in the extreme, yet with an aberration of mind more and +more evident during twenty years, Frederick Merrill Shaw, a +well-informed Vermonter born in 1827, shipped for California as cook +on the brig _Sea Eagle_ and arrived in San Francisco in September, +1849, where he helped to build, as he always claimed, the first +three-story structure put up there. Well-proportioned and standing +over six feet in height, Shaw presented a dignified appearance; that +is, if one closed an eye to his dress. Long ago, he established his +own pension bureau, conferring upon me the honor of a weekly +contributor; and when he calls, he keeps me well-posted on what he's +been doing. His weary brain is ever filled with the phantoms of great +inventions and billion-dollar corporations, as his pocketful of maps +and diagrams shows; one day launching an aerial navigation company to +explore the moon and the next day covering California with railroad +lines as thick as are automobiles in the streets of Los Angeles. + +On September 21st, my brother, J. P. Newmark, to whom I am so +indebted, and who was the cause of my coming to California, died at +his home, in the sixty-ninth year of his age; his demise being rather +sudden. During the extended period of his illness, he was tenderly +nursed by his wife, Augusta; and I cannot pay my sister-in-law too +high a tribute for her devoted companionship and aid, and her real +self-sacrifice. Mrs. Newmark long survived her husband, dying on +January 3d, 1908 at the age of seventy-four. + +The reader will permit me, I am certain, the privilege of a fraternal +eulogy: in his acceptance and fulfillment of the responsibilities of +this life, in the depth and sincerity of his feeling toward family and +friend, my brother was the peer of any; in his patient, silent +endurance of long years of intense physical suffering and in his +cheerfulness, which a manly courage and philosophical spirit inspired +him to diffuse, he was the superior of most; and it was the possession +of these qualities which has preserved his personality, to those who +knew him well, far beyond the span of natural existence. + +In May, 1896, the Merchants' Association consolidated with the +Manufacturers' Association (of which R. W. Pridham was then +President), and after the change of name to the Merchants & +Manufacturers' Association, inaugurated the first local exhibit of +home products, using the Main Street store of Meyberg Brothers for the +display. On August 1st, 1897, Felix J. Zeehandelaar, later also Consul +of the Netherlands, became the stalwart, enthusiastic and now +indispensable Secretary, succeeding, I believe, William H. Knight. + +This same year Major Ben. C. Truman, formerly editor of the _Star_, +together with George D. Rice & Sons established the _Graphic_, which +is still being published under the popular editorship of Samuel T. +Clover. In 1900, Truman was one of the California Commissioners to the +Paris Exposition. After his foreign sojourn, he returned to Los +Angeles and, with Harry Patton, started a weekly society paper called +the _Capitol_. Rather recently, by the advantageous sale of certain +property early acquired, Ben and his good wife have come to enjoy a +comfortable and well-merited degree of prosperity. Clover came to Los +Angeles in 1901; was editor and publisher of the _Express_ for four +years; and in 1905 started the _Evening News_, continuing the same +three years despite the panic of 1907. A year previously, he purchased +the _Graphic_, more than one feature of which, and especially his +"Browsings in an Old Book Shop," have found such favor. + +W. A. Spalding, whose editorial work on Los Angeles newspapers--dating +from his association with the _Herald_ in 1874, and including service +with both the _Express_ and the _Times_--in 1896 assumed the business +management of his first love, the _Herald_. After again toiling with +the quill for four years, he was succeeded by Lieutenant Randolph H. +Miner. + +The magnificent interurban electric system of Los Angeles is indebted +not a little to the brothers-in-law, General M. H. Sherman and E. P. +Clark--the former a Yankee from Vermont, and the latter a Middle +Westerner from Iowa--both of whom had settled in Arizona in the early +seventies. While in the Territory, Sherman taught school and, under +appointment by Governor Frémont as Superintendent of Instruction, laid +the foundation of the public school system there. Both came to Los +Angeles in 1889, soon after which Sherman organized the Consolidated +Electric Railway Company. In 1896, the old steam railroad--which about +the late eighties had run for a year or so between Los Angeles and the +North Beach, by way of Colegrove and South Hollywood--was equipped +with electrical motor power and again operated through the enterprise +of Eli P. Clark, President of the Los Angeles Pacific Railroad +Company. Together, Sherman and Clark built an electrical road to +Pasadena, thus connecting the mountains with the sea. + +In 1896, I dissolved partnership with Kaspare Cohn, taking over the +hide business and, having fitted up a modest office under the St. Elmo +Hotel, revived with a degree of satisfaction the name of H. Newmark & +Company. + +A notable career in Los Angeles is that of Arthur Letts who in 1896 +arrived here with barely five hundred dollars in his pocket and, as it +would appear, in answer to a benign Providence. J. A. Williams & +Company, after a brief experience, had found the corner of Broadway +and Fourth Street too far south, and their means too limited, to +weather the storm; so that their badly-situated little department +store was soon in the hands of creditors. This was Letts' opportunity: +obtaining some financial assistance, he purchased the bankrupt stock. +His instantaneous success was reflected in the improvement of the +neighborhood, and thereafter both locality and business made rapid +progress together. + +Meredith P. Snyder, who became a resident in 1880 and started business +by clerking in a furniture store, in 1896 was elected to the office of +mayor, on a municipal water-works platform. + +During the presidential campaign of 1896, when the West went wild over +"16 to 1," and it looked as if W. J. Bryan would sweep aside all +opposition here, an organization known as the Sound Money League +undertook to turn the tide. George H. Stewart was elected President, +the other members of the Executive Committee being John F. Francis, +Frank A. Gibson, R. W. Burnham and M. H. Newmark. So strenuous was the +campaign, and so effective was the support by the public, that when +the sun set on that memorable Tuesday in November, Los Angeles was +found to be still strong for sound principles. Perhaps the most +remarkable outpouring in the political history of the city took place +during this period when business men, regardless of previous party +affiliations, turned out to hear Tom Reed, the "Czar" of the House of +Representatives. + +It was in the Christmas season of 1896 that Colonel Griffith J. +Griffith so generously filled the stocking of Los Angeles with his +immensely important gift of Griffith Park, said to be, with its three +thousand and more diversified acres, magnificent heights and +picturesque roadways--some of which, with their dense willow growth, +remind me of the shaded lanes described in earlier chapters--the +second largest pleasure ground in the world. + +On July 1st, 1897, the Atlantic & Pacific Railroad was absorbed by the +Santa Fé; Charles W. Smith, the receiver, having brought order out of +chaos after the former road in 1895 had met with disaster. + +Dr. Henry S. Orme, H. W. O'Melveny, J. M. Griffith, J. W. Gillette, A. +L. Bath, J. M. Guinn, M. Teed, J. M. Elliott and W. A. Spalding on +August 2d met in the office of the _Daily Herald_, in the Bradbury +Block on Third Street, to consider the organization of an Old +Settlers' Society. At that meeting a committee, consisting of Dr. J. +S. Griffin, Henry W. O'Melveny, Benjamin S. Eaton, H. D. Barrows, J. +M. Guinn, Dr. H. S. Orme, J. W. Gillette and myself was appointed to +direct the movement. On August 10th, we selected the Los Angeles +County Pioneers of Southern California as the name of the society and +decided that eligibility should be limited to those who had resided in +the county twenty-five years. A public meeting was held at the Chamber +of Commerce on September 4th, 1897 and the twenty-five persons present +signed the roll. The first President chosen was Benjamin S. Eaton and +the first Secretary, J. M. Guinn. + +Dr. William F. Edgar, who had resided here continuously for over +thirty years, died on August 23d, at the age of seventy-three; a sword +given to him by General Phil Kearney resting among the floral +tributes. The tenth of the following November witnessed the death of +George Hansen, the surveyor, whose body (in accordance with his +expressed wish) was cremated. On the same day, J. J. Ayers died. + +This year, when the town was full of unemployed, hundreds of men were +set at work to improve Elysian Park, a move suggested by Judge Charles +Silent. + +Frank Walker, who had been here for a while in the middle of the +eighties and had gone away again, returned to Los Angeles about 1897 +and set himself up as a master builder. While contracting for certain +unique bungalows, his attention was directed to the possibility of +utilizing the power of the sun, with the result that he soon patented +a solar heater, similar to those now extensively built into Southern +California residences, and organized a company for exploiting the +invention. + + + + +CHAPTER XLI + +THE SOUTHWEST ARCHÆOLOGICAL SOCIETY + +1898-1905 + + +A cloud, considerably larger than a man's hand, flecked the skies at +the dawn of 1898 and troubled many who had been following the course +of events in Cuba. So, too, like the thrill sent through the nation at +the firing on Fort Sumter, the startling intelligence of the +destruction of the United States battleship _Maine_ electrified and +united the people. Along the Coast, intense excitement scarcely +permitted Westerners to keep themselves within bounds; and instant was +the display of patriotic fervor, Southern Californians willingly +shouldering their share of the unavoidable war burdens. + +On January 22d, John G. Nichols, several times Mayor of Los Angeles +and always a welcome figure on the streets, died here at the age of +eighty-five years. + + [Illustration: Isaias W. Hellman] + + [Illustration: Herman W. Hellman] + + [Illustration: Cameron E. Thom] + + [Illustration: Ygnácio Sepúlveda] + + [Illustration: Main Street, Looking North, Showing First Federal + Building, Middle Nineties] + + [Illustration: First Santa Fé Locomotive to Enter Los Angeles] + +Colonel Harrison Gray Otis, soldier, Union officer, Government +official in Alaska and President of the Los Angeles _Times_ publishing +company, was appointed by President McKinley, on May 27th, a +Brigadier-General of the United States Volunteers, following which he +was assigned to a command in the Philippines, where he saw active +service until honorably discharged in 1899, after the fall of Malolos, +the insurgent capital. During General Otis's absence, his influential +son-in-law, the large-hearted, big man of affairs, Harry Chandler, +Vice-President of the corporation, was general manager of the _Times_; +while L. E. Mosher was managing editor. In 1897, Harry E. Andrews +joined the _Times_ staff, in 1906 becoming managing editor and +infusing into the paper much of its characteristic vigor. In 1899, +Hugh McDowell, who had entered the employ of the _Times_ four years +before, began his long editorship of the _Times'_ magazine, a +wide-awake feature which has become more and more popular. During many +years, Mrs. Eliza A. Otis, the General's gifted wife, now deceased, +also contributed to both the _Times_ and the _Mirror_. From the +beginning, the paper has been Republican and in every respect has +consistently maintained its original policies. Especially in the fight +for San Pedro harbor, it was an important element and did much to +bring the energetic campaign to a successful termination. + +Paul De Longpré, the French artist who made his mark, when but eleven +years old, in the Salon of 1876, was a distinguished member of a +little group of Frenchmen arriving in the late nineties. In 1901, he +bought a home at Hollywood and there surrounded himself with three +acres of choicest gardens--one of the sights of suburban Los +Angeles--which became an inspiration to him in his work as a painter +of flowers. De Longpré died in Hollywood, on June 29th, 1911. + +On August 23d, my excellent friend, Dr. John Strother Griffin, for +nearly fifty years one of the most efficient and honored residents of +Los Angeles, died here. + +A career such as should inspire American youth is that of Henry T. +Gage (long in partnership with the well-known bibliophile, W. I. +Foley,) a native of New York who in 1877, at the age of twenty-four, +began the practice of law in Los Angeles, to be elected, twenty-one +years later, Governor of California. A handsome man, of splendid +physique--acquired, perhaps, when he started as a sheep-dealer--he is +also genial in temperament, and powerful and persuasive in oratory; +qualifications which led to his selection, I dare say, to second the +nomination at Chicago, in 1888, of Levi P. Morton for the +Vice-Presidency. Ex-Governor Gage's wife was Miss Fannie V., daughter +of John Rains and granddaughter of Colonel Isaac Williams. + +April 27, 1899 was printed large and red upon the calendar for both +Los Angeles and San Pedro, when the engineers, desiring to commence +work on the harbor in true spectacular fashion, brought a load of +quarried rock from Catalina to dump on the breakwater site. President +McKinley sent an electric spark from the White House, intended to +throw the first load of ballast splashing into the bay; but the barge +only half tilted, interfering with the dramatic effect desired. +Nevertheless, the festivities concluded with the usual procession and +fireworks. + +Movements of great importance making for a municipal water-system +occurred in 1899, the thirty years' contract with the assigns of John +S. Griffin, P. Beaudry, S. Lazard and others having expired on July +22d, 1898. An arbitration committee, consisting of Charles T. Healey +for the Company and James C. Kays--long a citizen of importance and +Sheriff from 1887 to 1888--for the City, failed to agree as to the +valuation of the Los Angeles City Water Company's plant, whereupon +Colonel George H. Mendell was added to the board; and on May 12th, +1899, Kays and Mendell fixed their estimate at $1,183,591, while +Healey held out for a larger sum. In August, the citizens, by a vote +of seven to one, endorsed the issuing of two million dollars of City +bonds, to pay the Water Company and to build additional equipment; and +the water-works having been transferred to the municipality, five +commissioners were appointed to manage the system. + +During August, 1899, the Reverend Dr. Sigmund Hecht of Milwaukee took +into his keeping the spiritual welfare of Los Angeles Reformed Jewry; +and it is certainly a source of very great satisfaction to me that +during his tenure of office his good fellowship has led him, on more +than one occasion, to tender the altar of the Jewish temple for +Christian worship. Scholarly in pursuits and eloquent of address, Dr. +Hecht for sixteen years has well presided over the destinies of his +flock, his congregation keeping pace with the growth of the city. + +Incursions of other jobbing centers into Los Angeles territory induced +our leading manufacturers and wholesalers to combine for offensive as +well as defensive purposes; and on October 11th, 1899, in answer to a +call, an enthusiastic meeting was held in Room 86, Temple Block, +attended by J. Baruch, J. O. Koepfli, J. Saeger, R. L. Craig, L. +Kimble, L. C. Scheller, George H. Wigmore, F. W. Braun, C. C. +Reynolds, I. A. Lothian, W. S. Hunt, A. H. Busch, M. H. Newmark and +others, who elected Baruch, President; Koepfli, First Vice-President; +Reynolds, Second Vice-President; Scheller, Treasurer; and Braun, +Secretary. A couple of weeks later, A. M. Rawson was named Secretary, +Braun having resigned to accept the Third Vice-Presidency; and on +November 3d, the Associated Jobbers of Southern California, as the +organization was called, was re-christened the Associated Jobbers of +Los Angeles. Meanwhile at a quiet luncheon, Koepfli and Newmark had +entered into negotiations with Charles D. Willard, with the result +that, when Rawson withdrew on February 28th, 1900, Willard assumed the +duties of Secretary, holding the office for years, until compelled by +sickness, on January 18th, 1911, to relinquish the work. On February +21st, 1900, Baruch having resigned, M. H. Newmark began a service of +twelve years as President. The strength of the organization was +materially increased when, in March, 1908, F. P. Gregson, well up in +the traffic councils of the Atchison, Topeka & Santa Fé Railroad, +assumed the management of the recently-established traffic bureau. + +On April 10th, 1908, after many years of hardship, financial trouble +and disappointment, during which the Executive Committee and Secretary +Willard had frequent conferences with J. C. Stubbs and William Sproule +(then Stubbs's assistant) of the Southern Pacific, and W. A. Bissell, +of the Atchison, Topeka & Santa Fé Railroad, it became evident that +more equitable rates for shippers into the San Joaquín Valley and +elsewhere could not peaceably be obtained. A promised readjustment, +lowering Los Angeles rates about twenty per cent., had been published; +but at the request of the San Francisco merchants, the new +tariff-sheet was repudiated by the transportation companies. A +rehearing was also denied by them. The Associated Jobbers then carried +the case before the newly-created Railroad Commission and obtained +concessions amounting to fifty per cent. of the original demands. +Guided by their astute Traffic Manager, F. P. Gregson, the jobbers, +not satisfied with the first settlement, in 1910 renewed their +activity before the Commission; and on the 15th of the following +February, still further reductions were announced. The last rates +authorized in 1912 are still in effect. + +In 1899, James M. Guinn, after some years of miscellaneous work in the +field of local annals, issued his _History of Los Angeles County_, +following the same in 1907 with a _History of California and the +Southern Coast Counties_. As I write, he has in preparation a still +more compendious work to be entitled, _Los Angeles and Environs_. + +At half-past four o'clock on the morning of December 25th, a slight +shock of earthquake was felt in Los Angeles; but it was not until some +hours later that the telegraph reported the much greater damage +wrought at San Jacinto, Riverside County. There, walls fell in heaps; +and a peculiar freak was the complete revolution of a chimney without +the disturbance of a single brick! Six squaws, by the falling of their +adobes at the Reservation some miles away, were instantly killed. When +day dawned and the badly-frightened people began to inspect the +neighborhood, they found great mountain-crevices, into some of which +even large trees had fallen. + +Toward the end of the nineties, Henry E. Huntington sold much or all +of his large holdings in the San Francisco railways and began both to +buy up Los Angeles railway stocks and to give his personal attention +to the city's traffic-problems. At the same time, he bent his energies +to the crowning work of his life--the development of the various +interurban electric systems focusing in Los Angeles. In 1902, the road +to Long Beach was completed; and in the following year electric cars +began to run to Monrovia and Whittier. In 1903, the seven-story +Huntington or Pacific Electric Building at the corner of Main and +Sixth streets was finished. The effect of these extensive improvements +on local commerce and on the value of real estate (as well as their +influence on the growth of population through the coming of tourists +seeking the conveniences and pleasures of social life) cannot, +perhaps, be fully estimated--a fact which the people of this city +should always remember with gratitude. + +During the winter of 1899-1900, business cares so weighed upon me that +I decided temporarily to cast off all worry and indulge myself with +another visit to the Old World. This decision was reached rather +suddenly and, as my friends insist, in a perfectly characteristic +manner: one morning I hastened to the steamship office and bought the +necessary tickets; and then I went home leisurely and suggested to my +wife that she prepare for a trip to Europe! + +About the first of January, therefore, we left Los Angeles, reached +Naples on February 1st and traveled for nine months through Great +Britain, France, Germany, Italy, Switzerland, Norway, Sweden and +Denmark. I returned to my birthplace, Loebau, which in my youth had +appeared of such importance; but although somewhat larger than it used +to be, it now nevertheless seemed small and insignificant. + +While making this tour of Europe, I revisited Sweden and renewed my +acquaintance with the families that had been so kind to me as a boy. +Time had lamentably thinned the ranks of the older generation, but +many of the younger, especially those of my own age, were still there. +Those only who have had a similar experience will appreciate my +pleasure in once again greeting these steadfast friends. I also +reviewed numerous scenes formerly so familiar. It is impossible to +describe my emotions on thus again seeing this beautiful country, or +to convey to the reader the depth of my respect and affection for her +intelligent, thrifty and whole-souled people, especially when I +remembered their liberal encouragement of my father about forty years +before. + +Thanks to the indefatigable labors of Mrs. A. S. C. Forbes of Los +Angeles, the beautiful ceremony of strewing flowers upon the restless +ocean waters in honor of the naval dead was first observed at Santa +Monica on Memorial Day in 1900, and bids fair to become an appropriate +national custom. + +Señora António F. Coronel entrusted to the Chamber of Commerce, on +June 6th, the invaluable historical souvenirs known as the Coronel +Collection; and now[43] for years these exhibits, housed in the +Chamber of Commerce Building, have been one of the sights of the city, +a pleasure and a stimulation alike to tourist and resident. + +A good anecdote as to the transfer of this collection is related on +the authority of Miss Anna B. Picher, President of the Boundary League +and the lady who made the first move to secure the interesting League +mementos now preserved and displayed at the County Museum. When the +matter of making the Coronel heirlooms more accessible to the public +was brought to Señora Coronel's attention, she not only showed a +lively interest, but at once agreed to make the donation. She imposed, +however, the condition that Miss Picher should bring to her M. J. +Newmark and John F. Francis, then directors, in whose integrity and +acumen she had great confidence. This was done; and these gentlemen +having pledged their personal attention and sponsorship, the Señora +committed the historic objects to the Chamber of Commerce for the +benefit, forever, of all the people. + +The Los Angeles _Herald_, on July 7th, passed into the hands of a +group of stockholders especially interested in petroleum, Wallace R. +Hardison being President and General Manager, and R. H. Hay Chapman, +Managing Editor. At the same time the newspaper's policy became +Republican. + +The Harvard School was opened, on September 25th by Grenville C. Emery +and was the first notable military academy for youth in Los Angeles. +After many terms of successful work under Congregational auspices, the +School has passed to the control of the Rt. Reverend J. H. Johnson, as +trustee for the Episcopal Church, which has acquired other valuable +school properties in the Southland; Professor Emery remitting fifty +thousand dollars of the purchase price in consideration of a promise +to perpetuate his name. + +A tunnel was put through Bunker Hill--by the way, one of the highest +of downtown elevations--from Hill Street to Hope on Third, in 1901, +bringing the western hill district into closer touch with the business +center of the town and greatly enhancing the value of neighboring +property. The delay in cutting through First and Second streets, which +would afford so much relief to the municipality, is a reproach against +the good sense of the City. + +The Los Angeles _Express_, which enjoys the honor of being the oldest +daily newspaper still published in Los Angeles, and which, for fifteen +years, has been so well managed by H. W. Brundige, was sold in January +to Edwin T. Earl, who moved the plant to a building erected for it on +Fifth Street between Broadway and Hill. Earl came to Los Angeles in +1885, having previously for years packed and shipped fruit on a large +scale. In 1890, as a result of the obstacles handicapping the sending +of fresh fruit to the East, Earl invented a new refrigerator car with +ventilating devices; and unable to get the railroads to take over its +construction, he organized a company for the building of the +conveyors. On selling out to the Armours, Earl made large investments +in Los Angeles real estate. A few years ago, the _Express_ was moved +to Hill Street near Seventh. Possibly owing to the renewed interest in +local historical study, the _Express_, in 1905, commenced the +republication of news items of "Twenty-five Years Ago To-day"--a +feature of peculiar pleasure to the pioneer. + +William F. Grosser, who died on April 15th, was long active in Los +Angeles Turnverein circles, having popularized science before +institutions and lecture-courses existed here for that purpose. A +native of Potsdam, Prussia, Grosser came to Southern California _via_ +Panamá, and on settling in Los Angeles, laid out the Grosser Tract. +Having been an advanced student of astronomical science and +microscopy, and possessing a good-sized portable telescope, he was +soon in demand by societies and schools, for which he lectured without +financial remuneration. One of Grosser's sisters, Mrs. A. +Jelinek--whose husband, a Boston cabinet-maker, had an interesting +part in the carving of the chair made from "the spreading chestnut +tree" and presented to the poet Longfellow by the school children of +Cambridge--has been for years an honored resident of Ocean Park, where +she was one of the early investors. A granddaughter is Fräulein Elsa +Grosser, the violinist. + +On April 24th, Samuel Calvert Foy died, aged seventy-one, survived by +his wife and six children. + +A little town in Ventura County, bearing the name of the famous +student and author, recalls the death near here in July of Charles +Nordhoff, whose pioneer book, _California: For Health, Pleasure and +Residence_, published in the early seventies, did more, I dare say, +than any similar work to spread the fame of the Southland throughout +the East. + +Charles Brode, who died in August, first saw Los Angeles in 1868, when +he came here to nurse Edward J., my wife's brother, in his last +illness. He then opened a grocery store at South Spring Street near +Second, and was active in Turnverein and Odd Fellow circles. The +mention of Brode recalls the name of one who has attained distinction +here: even as a messenger boy at the California Club in the eighties, +Oscar Lawler gave promise of an important future. He had come from +Iowa as a child, and his personality, ability and ambition soon +brought him prominently before the Bar and the people. He served as +United States Attorney for this district from 1906 until 1909, when he +became Assistant to the Attorney-General of the United States. He is +high in Masonic circles, being Past Grand Master of the Masonic Grand +Lodge of California. In 1901, he married Miss Hilda, daughter of +Charles Brode. + +Catalina Island, in the summer of 1902, established wireless +connection with the mainland, at White's Point; and on August 2d, the +first messages were exchanged. On March 25th of the following year +began the publication of the Catalina newspaper known as the +_Wireless_. + +After graduating from the University of California in 1902, my son +Marco attended for a while the University of Berlin; after which he +returned to Los Angeles and entered the house of M. A. Newmark & +Company. + +The women of California, in the late eighties, wishing to pay Mrs. +John C. Frémont an appropriate tribute, presented her with a residence +at the northwest corner of Hoover and Twenty-eighth streets, Los +Angeles where, on December 27th, 1902, at the age of seventy-eight +years, she died. Mrs. Frémont was a woman of charming personality and +decidedly intellectual gifts; and in addition to having written +several meritorious works, she was engaged, at the time of her death, +on her autobiography. Her ashes were sent East to the banks of the +Hudson, to be interred beside those of her distinguished husband; but +her daughter, Miss Elizabeth Benton Frémont, has continued to reside +here in the family homestead. + +On the site of one of my early homes, the corner-stone of the new +Chamber of Commerce was laid on March 28th with impressive Masonic +ceremonies. The principal address was made by Jonathan S. Slauson. +Ferdinand K. Rule was then President of the Chamber; and the Building +Committee consisted of M. J. Newmark, Chairman; A. B. Cass, Homer +Laughlin, F. K. Rule, H. S. McKee and James A. Foshay--the latter for +sixteen years, beginning with the middle nineties, having demonstrated +his efficiency as Superintendent of City Schools. + +Early in 1903, G. A. Dobinson, a Shakespearian student and teacher of +elocution, induced me to build a hall on Hope Street near Eleventh, +connected with a small theater; and there, in the spring of 1904, he +opened the well-known Dobinson School, which he conducted until 1906. +Then the Gamut Club, an organization of 1904--whose first President +was Professor Adolph Willhartitz,[44] the artistic German +pianist--moved in. + +The pioneer experiments with the navel orange have already been +referred to; a late episode associates the luscious fruit with a +President of the United States. On May 6th, amid great festivity +participated in by all Riverside, Theodore Roosevelt replanted, in +front of Frank Miller's Mission Inn, one of the original, historic +trees. + +William K. Cowan came to Los Angeles as a jeweler in 1887, later +embarked in the bicycle trade and was one of the first men in Los +Angeles to sell automobiles, at length building in 1903 at 830 South +Broadway the first large garage here. + +Some months later, if I recollect aright, witnessed the advent on our +streets of a number of horseless carriages, and I was seized with a +desire to possess not one, but two. My acquisitions were both +electric, and soon I was extending, right and left, invitations to my +friends to ride with me. On the first of these excursions, however, +one of the machines balked and the second also broke down; and to make +a long story short, no mechanic in town being sufficiently expert to +straighten out the difficulty, I soon disposed of them in disgust for +about seven hundred dollars. + +In 1903, a notable change was made, and one decidedly for the better +interests of the public schools, when one hundred citizens, pursuant +to a change in the City's charter, selected a non-partizan Board of +Education consisting of John D. Bicknell, Joseph Scott, J. M. Guinn, +Jonathan S. Slauson, Charles Cassatt Davis, Emmet H. Wilson and W. J. +Washburn. + +On October 23d the Southwest Society was founded here by Charles F. +Lummis with Jonathan S. Slauson as its first President; Charles F. +Lummis, Secretary and W. C. Patterson, Treasurer. Associated with +these officers were J. O. Koepfli, M. A. Hamburger, General H. G. +Otis, Henry W. O'Melveny, Major E. W. Jones, J. A. Foshay, the Right +Reverend Thomas J. Conaty, J. D. Bicknell and others. In the +beginning, it was a branch of the Archæological Institute of America; +but so rapid was the Society's growth that, in three years, it had +fifty per cent. more members than belonged to the thirty-year-old +parent organization in Boston, with which it remained affiliated until +1913 when it withdrew in order that all its funds might go toward the +maintenance of the Southwest Museum, a corporation founded in 1907 as +the result of the Southwest Society's labors. + +The first plant of the Los Angeles _Examiner_, a newspaper owned by +William Randolph Hearst, was installed in 1903 by Dent H. Robert, then +and now publisher of the San Francisco _Examiner_. The paper, +illustrated from the start, made its first appearance on December 12th +and sprang into immediate favor. R. A. Farrelly was the first managing +editor. The office of the paper was on the west side of Broadway near +Fifth Street, where it remained for ten years, during which it +rendered valuable service to the community, notably in conducting a +successful campaign for the sale of seven hundred and twenty thousand +dollars' worth of school bonds which had hitherto proven unmarketable. +In the meantime, Robert had been succeeded, first by a Mr. Strauss, +and then by Henry Lowenthal and William P. Leech, while Farrelly was +followed by Foster Coates, Arthur Clark and W. P. Anderson. In 1908, +the enterprising Maximilian F. Ihmsen assumed the responsibilities of +publisher, and at the same time Frederick W. Eldridge became the +efficient managing editor. Under the able direction of these +experienced men, this morning daily has attained its highest +prosperity, marked by removal in the fall of 1913 to the _Examiner_ +Building at Broadway and Eleventh Street. + +Abbot Kinney, foreseeing a future for the tide-flats and lagoons south +of Ocean Park, in 1904 purchased enough acreage whereon to build the +now well-known Venice, which, as its name implies, was to be adorned +with canals, bridges and arcades. Through Kinney's remarkable spirit +of enterprise, a wonderful transformation was effected in a single +year. Such in fact was the optimism of this founder of towns that, in +order to amply supply the necessary funds, he closed out important +city holdings including the Flat Iron Square, lying between Eighth and +Ninth, and Main and Spring streets, the Abbotsford Inn property and +the large southeast corner of Spring and Sixth streets, at present +occupied by the Grosse Building. Kinney's foresight, courage and +persistence have been rewarded, the dreams of his prime becoming the +realities of his more advanced age. + +The task of building here a King's Highway--El Camino Real--intended +to connect all the missions and _presidios_ between San Diego and +Sonoma was undertaken in the troublous days of Don Gaspar de Portolá +and Father Junípero Serra; but time in a measure obliterated this +landmark. Since 1904, however, such kindred spirits as Miss Anna B. +Picher--for nearly twenty years a zealous toiler for the preservation +of our historic monuments, and whose zeal in behalf of the royal road +was paramount--Mr. and Mrs. A. S. C. Forbes, Dr. Milbank Johnson, R. +F. Del Valle, Mrs. C. R. Olney of Oakland and Frank Ey, Mayor of Santa +Ana, have so caused the work to prosper that at the present time much +of the original highway is about to be incorporated with the good +State roads of California. The first bell for one of the mission-bell +guide posts (designed, by the way, by Mrs. Forbes) was dedicated at +the Plaza Church on August 15th, 1906; and since then some four +hundred of these indicators have been placed along the Camino Real. + +An interesting attempt to transplant a small Eastern town to +California was made in 1904 when Alfred Dolge, the founder of +Dolgeville, New York (and the author of the elaborate work, _Pianos +and their Makers_, published in 1911 at little Covina), established +Dolgeville in Los Angeles County, opening there, with three hundred or +more operatives, a felt works for piano fixtures. The experiment had +been undertaken because of expected advantages in the supply of wool; +but changes in the tariff ruined the industry, and after some years of +varying prosperity, Dolgeville was annexed to Alhambra. + +A syndicate, styled the Los Angeles Herald Company, whose President +was Frank G. Finlayson, in 1904 bought the _Herald_, at that time +under the editorial management of Robert M. Yost. + +Future generations will doubtless be as keen to learn something about +the preserving of albacore, commonly spoken of as tuna, as I should +like to know how and by whom sardines were first successfully put into +cans. The father of this industry is Albert P. Halfhill, a Minnesotan +drawn here, in 1892, through the opportunities for packing mackerel on +this southern coast. In 1894, we find him organizing the California +Fish Company, soon to be known as the Southern California Fish +Company. In 1904, Halfhill, while experimenting with various western +sea-foods, accidentally discovered the extraordinary quality of the +albacore, a briny-deep heavyweight so interesting to the angler and so +mysterious to the scientist. As a mere bit of gossip, Halfhill's +assurance that M. A. Newmark & Company purchased the first canned tuna +is entitled to mention. + +The Turnverein-Germania took a notable step forward this year by +buying a lot, one hundred by three hundred feet, on South Figueroa, +between Pico and Fifteenth streets; and on September 3d, 1905, the new +club building and gymnasium were formally opened. + +William H. Workman in 1904 was elected Treasurer of the City of Los +Angeles for the third time, his first term of office having begun in +1901. This compliment was the more emphatic because Workman was a +Democrat and received four thousand five hundred votes more than his +opponent--and that, too, only a month after Roosevelt had carried Los +Angeles by a majority of thirteen thousand. + +In a previous chapter, I have described the vender of _tamales_ and +ice-cream, so familiar through his peculiar voice as well as his +characteristic costume. About 1905, another celebrity plying a trade +in the same line, and known as Francisco, appeared here and daily made +his rounds through the more fashionable Westlake district. He had a +tenor voice of rare quality and power, and used it, while exquisitely +rendering choice _arias_, to advertise his wares. Such was his merit +that lovers of music, as soon as his presence was known, paused to +listen; with the natural result that business with Francisco was never +dull. Whenever a grand opera company came to town, the Italian was +there, in a front seat of the gallery; and so great was his +enthusiastic interest in the performance of those whose voices were +often inferior to his own, that he could be seen, with gaze fixed on +the proscenium, passionately beating time as if to direct the +orchestra. Seven or eight years ago, the long-favorite Francisco was +foully murdered, and under strange circumstances; leading many to +believe that, having perhaps degraded himself from his former estate +and fleeing, an alien, to an unknown land, he had fallen at last the +victim of a _vendetta_. + +In 1905, I took part in a movement, headed by Joseph Mesmer, to raise +by subscription the funds necessary to buy the old Downey +Block--fronting on Temple and North Main streets, and extending +through to New High--for the purpose of presenting it to the National +Government for a Federal Building site. Unusual success attended our +efforts, and the transfer to Uncle Sam was duly made. In the meantime, +an appropriation of eight hundred thousand dollars had been secured +for the building, and it was with no little surprise and +disappointment when the bids for construction were opened, in May, +1906, that the lowest was found to be nearly a million dollars. This +delayed matters until the following fall. In October, the site at the +corner of Main and Winston streets was sold for three hundred and +fourteen thousand dollars; and the deficiency having thus been +supplied, it was not long before the new building was in course of +construction. + +Desiring to celebrate the fifty years which had elapsed since, perched +upon an ox-cart, he rode into Los Angeles for the first time, William +H. Workman on January 21st gave a banquet to five hundred pioneers in +Turnverein Hall, the menu being peculiarly _mejicano_. The +reminiscences, speeches and quips were of the friendliest and best; +and the whole affair was one that recalled to both host and guests the +_dolce far niente_ days of dear old Los Angeles. + +On February 21st, the San Pedro, Los Angeles & Salt Lake Railroad was +completed--the fourth transcontinental line, with its connections, to +enter Los Angeles. + +In the spring, A. C. and A. M. Parson bought a tract of land on +Alamitos Bay and there, at the mouth of the San Gabriel River, founded +Naples, with features somewhat similar to those at Venice; but unlike +the latter town, the new Naples has never developed into a crowded +resort. + +Arriving in California in 1869, at the age of seven, Frank Putnam +Flint, a native of Massachusetts concerning whom much of importance +might be related, was elected in 1905 United States Senator from +California. His brother, Motley H. Flint, high in Masonic circles, has +also enjoyed an important career, having long been associated with +many local public movements. + +An optimist of optimists, still young though having passed more than +one milestone on the road to success, Willis H. Booth came to Los +Angeles a mere lad and is a product of the Los Angeles High School and +the State University. Before, while and since filling the office of +President of the Chamber of Commerce, Booth has been identified with +nearly everything worth while here and gives promise of an important +and interesting future. He is now one of the Vice-Presidents of the +Security Trust and Savings Bank. + +In August, Juan B. Bandini, second son of the famous Don Juan, died at +Santa Monica. Two of Bandini's daughters were noted Los Angeles +belles--Arcadia, who became the wife of John T. Gaffey, of San Pedro; +and Dolores, who married into the well-known literary family, the +Wards, of London. + +Strenuous efforts were made in 1905 to house the Historical Society of +Southern California, which, incorporated on February 12th, 1891, +boasts of being the oldest organization of its kind on the Coast and +the only one doing State work; and the Legislature appropriated one +hundred and twenty-five thousand dollars for a building. Governor +Pardee, however, vetoed the bill--an act which later contributed to +the endowment, by the State, of the comely County Museum in which the +Historical Society now has its home. + +In the spring of 1905, the then eight-year-old town of Redondo, with +her large hotel and busy wharf, and famed for her fields of +carnations, became the scene of one of those infrequent, but typically +American, real estate frenzies which come suddenly, last a few days +and as suddenly depart. This particular attack, not to say epidemic, +was brought on by one or two newspaper headlines announcing to the +breakfasting reader that Henry E. Huntington had decided to spend +millions of dollars in making immense railroad and other improvements +in the seaside town, and that this would at once raise Redondo from +the humble status of a village to almost metropolitan dignity. In +about as little time as is required to relate it, the astonished +beach-dwellers found themselves overwhelmed by a surging mass of +humanity struggling for the privilege of buying lots. The real estate +offices were soon surrounded by hundreds of people, fighting, pushing +and shoving, all possessed of but the one idea--to buy. + +And they bought. They bought corners and they bought in the middle of +the blocks; they bought heaps of sand and holes in the ground; they +bought in one breath and sold in the next; they bought blindly and +sold blindly. Redondo had become a huge, unregulated stock exchange, +lots instead of stocks for five days becoming the will-o'-the-wisps of +the fated bidders, until the boom collapsed leaving hundreds with lots +they had never seen and which, for the time being, they could not sell +at any price. + +Huntington did not spend his millions--at least then and there. +Redondo did not suddenly become a big center. Yet, in passing through +the experience of many a town, Redondo has gradually grown in +population and importance, even developing something of a +suburb--Clifton-by-the-Sea. Such was the famous boom of 1905; and such +will probably be the story of similar California booms to come. + +FOOTNOTES: + +[43] Installed, of late, in the County Museum. + +[44] Died on January 12th, 1915, aged seventy-eight years. + + + + +CHAPTER XLII + +THE SAN FRANCISCO EARTHQUAKE + +1906-1910 + + +On January 1st, 1906, after more than half a century of commercial +activity--with some things well done, and some poorly enough--during +which it has never been my ambition to better myself at the expense of +others, I retired from business to enjoy the moderate but sufficient +affluence which years of varying fortune had bestowed upon me. + +Rather early in the morning of April 18th, news was received here of +the awful calamity that had befallen San Francisco; and with lightning +rapidity the report spread throughout the city. Newspaper and +telegraph offices were besieged for particulars as to the earthquake, +which, strange to say, while it also affected even San Diego, was +scarcely felt here; and within a couple of hours, more than a thousand +telegrams were filed at one office alone, although not a single +message was despatched. Thousands of agitated tourists and even +residents hastened to the railroad stations, fearing further seismic +disturbance and danger, and bent on leaving the Coast; and soon the +stations and trains were so congested that little or nothing could be +done with the panic-stricken crowds. Meanwhile, more and more details +of the widespread disaster poured in; and Los Angeles began to +comprehend how paralyzing to her sister cities must have been the +wreck and ruin following, first, the shaking of the earth, and then +the much more serious fires and explosions. Soon, too, refugees from +the North commenced flocking into our city; and these thousands, none +with complete and few with decent attire, each pleading pathetically +for assistance, told the sad tale much more frankly than could the +noisy newsboy, with his flaring headlines and shrill, intermittent +_Extra!_ + +Long before much information was secured as to just what had happened, +public-spirited men and women, some under the banners of regular +organizations, some acting independently, moved energetically to +afford relief. The newspapers led off with large subscriptions, while +the Chamber of Commerce, Board of Trade and the Merchants & +Manufacturers' Association swelled the amount. Eventually some two +hundred and fifty thousand dollars was raised. At the same time, and +within two or three hours after the terrifying news had first been +received, the Directors of the Chamber of Commerce met and appointed +various committees headed by Francis Quarles Story, a patriotic and +indomitable citizen who arrived in 1883; and having the valuable +coöperation of Frank Wiggins, who served as Secretary, they went +actively to work to render the most practical assistance possible. A +Supply Committee, of which M. H. Newmark was chairman, by five o'clock +the same afternoon had assembled fourteen carloads of goods, partly +donated and partly sold to the Committee at cost, to go by rail, and +nine carloads to go from San Pedro by water. This train full of +necessaries was the first relief of its kind that reached San +Francisco; other shipments of supplies followed daily; and with the +first relief train went a corps of surgeons, under the chairmanship of +Dr. L. M. Powers, Health Officer, who established a hospital in the +Jefferson Square Building, treating two thousand patients in less than +three weeks. Among the chairmen of the several committees were: J. O. +Koepfli, J. Baruch, R. W. Burnham, Niles Pease, Perry Weidner, John E. +Coffin, J. J. Fogarty, W. L. Vail, D. C. McGarvin, W. A. Hammel, F. +Edward Gray, Mrs. R. M. Widney and D. J. Desmond; while H. B. Gurley, +long identified with Frank Wiggins in Chamber of Commerce work, was +Assistant Secretary. + +In this way was our sister-city laid low; but only, as it were, for a +moment. While the flames were yet consuming the old San Francisco, +her children were courageously planning the new; and supported by that +well-nigh superhuman spirit which community misfortune never fails to +inspire--the spirit that transforms weakness into strength, and +transmutes, as by an altruistic alchemy, the base metal of "eachness" +into the pure gold of "allness"--this stricken people built and built +until, to-day, less than a decade after that memorable night, there +stands by the Golden Gate a finer and more beautiful city than the one +from which it sprang. And, as if to emphasize to other nations the +fulness of San Francisco's accomplishment, her invincible citizens are +now organizing and triumphantly carrying out a great world's +exposition. + +One incident of this period of excitement and strain is perhaps worthy +of record as evidence of the good fellowship existing between Los +Angeles and the prostrate city. On May 2d the Executive Committee[45] +of the Associated Jobbers passed resolutions discouraging any effort +to take advantage of San Francisco's plight, and pledging to help +restore her splendid commercial prestige; whereupon Samuel T. Clover +made this editorial comment in the Los Angeles _Evening News_: + + We commend the reading of these expressions of kindly good + will to every pessimist in the country, as an evidence that + all commercial honor is not wiped out in this grossly + materialistic age. The resolutions, as passed, are an honor + to the Jobbers' Association in particular, and a credit to + Los Angeles in general. The _Evening News_ desires to + felicitate President Newmark and his associates on the + lofty attitude they have taken in the exigency. We are + proud of them. + +Among the many who at this time turned their faces toward Los Angeles +is Hector Alliot, the versatile Curator of the Southwest Museum. Born +in France and graduating from the University of Lombardy, Dr. Alliot +participated in various important explorations, later settling in San +Francisco. Losing in the earthquake and fire everything that he +possessed, Alliot came south and took up the quill, first with the +_Examiner_ and then the _Times_.[46] + +Mr. and Mrs. M. Kremer, on April 9th, celebrated their golden wedding; +less than a year later, both were dead. Mrs. Kremer passed away on +March 5th, 1907, and her husband followed her two days later--an +unusual dispensation. + +In July, I was seized with an illness which, without doubt, must have +precluded the possibility of writing these memoirs had it not been for +the unselfish attendance, amounting to real self-sacrifice, of Lionel +J. Adams. From that time until now, in fair weather or foul, in good +health or ill, Adams uncomplainingly and, indeed cheerfully, has +bestowed upon me the tender care that contributed to the prolongation +of my life; and it affords me peculiar pleasure to record, not only +the debt of gratitude that I owe him and the sincere friendship so +long marking our relations, but also his superior character as a man. + +J. M. Griffith, for years a leading transportation agent and lumber +merchant, died here on October 16th. Griffith Avenue is named after +him. Just two weeks later, William H. Perry passed away--a man of both +influence and affluence, but once so poor and tattered that when he +arrived, in February, 1854, he was unable to seek work until he had +first obtained, on credit, some decent clothes. + +Sometime about 1907, Major Ben C. Truman, both a _connoisseur_ of good +wines and an epicure, figured in an animated controversy as to the +making of mint-julep, the battle waging around the question whether a +julep's a julep, or not a julep, with the mint added before or after a +certain stage in the concocting! + + [Illustration: Harris and Sarah Newmark, at Time of Golden Wedding] + + [Illustration: Summer Home of Harris Newmark, Santa Monica] + +In an exceedingly informal manner, at the Westlake Avenue residence of +my daughter, Mrs. L. Loeb, my wife and I on the 24th of March, 1908 +celebrated our golden wedding anniversary, the occasion being the +more unusual because both the nuptials and the silver wedding +festivity had occurred in Los Angeles.[47] Our pleasure on that +occasion was intensified by the presence of friends with whom, during +most of our married life, we had maintained unbroken the most amicable +relations. + +Many years after spur-track switching charges had been abolished +throughout other industrial districts of the United States, the +Western railroads continued to assess this charge in Los Angeles, to +the extent that, as was estimated, our merchants were paying through +this tribute alone an amount not less than $250,000 a year. In August, +1908, however, or shortly after F. P. Gregson became identified with +the Associated Jobbers, suit was filed by M. H. Newmark, as President, +before the Interstate Commerce Commission; and on May 7th, 1910, a +decision was rendered in favor of local shippers. But unfortunately +this decision was reversed on July 20th, 1911, by the Commerce +Court.[48] Joseph P. Loeb and Edward G. Kuster, young attorneys, +handled the case in a manner recognized among men of their profession +as being unusually brilliant; while Gregson brought together a mass of +valuable facts. This was probably the most notable of all the cases of +its kind in the commercial history of Los Angeles. The other directors +at the time the suit was brought were: J. O. Koepfli, C. C. Reynolds, +F. W. Braun, L. C. Scheller, H. R. Boynton, A. Douglass, D. Wiebers, +W. H. Joyce, W. E. Hampton and E. H. Greppin. + +Not the least interesting step forward in providing Los Angeles with a +harbor was the acquisition of a strip of land known as the Shoe String +connecting Los Angeles with San Pedro and Wilmington. This practical +idea made possible in 1909 the unhampered consolidation of the three +places; and before the beginning of April their various civic bodies +had been considering the formation of committees to bring this about. +On Saturday, April 3d, the Los Angeles appointees met at the rooms of +the Chamber of Commerce for permanent organization. They were William +D. Stephens, Mayor of Los Angeles; Stoddard Jess; Homer Hamlin, City +Engineer; F. W. Braun; J. A. Anderson, Attorney for the Harbor +Commission and ex-member of the Board of Public Works; Leslie R. +Hewitt, City Attorney; Frank Simpson; Joseph Scott, President of the +Board of Education; M. H. Newmark, President of the Associated +Jobbers; J. M. Schneider, President of the Merchants and +Manufacturers' Association; A. P. Fleming, Secretary of the Harbor +Commission; ex-Mayor M. P. Snyder, H. Jevne, O. E. Farish, President +of the Realty Board; and F. J. Hart. Jess was elected President; +Fleming, Secretary; and to the admirable manner in which they +conducted the campaign, much of the ultimate success of the movement +must be attributed. The delegates from San Pedro and Wilmington +refused to go on until the Associated Jobbers had pledged themselves +to obtain for the harbor districts, after consolidation was effected, +the same freight advantages enjoyed by Los Angeles. This promise was +given and fulfilled. Various other pledges were outlined in the +Committee's report and adopted by the City Council; but many of these +assurances have not thus far been carried out by the authorities. Then +a vigorous campaign was projected, as a result of which both +elections--that of Wilmington and Los Angeles on August 5th, and the +other, of San Pedro and Los Angeles, on August 12th--resulted in +handsome majorities for consolidation. These substantial victories +were fittingly celebrated throughout the consolidated cities; and on +February 13th, 1910, the port became officially known as Los Angeles +Harbor. + +In April, 1906, the one hundred thousand books of the Los Angeles +Public Library, then under the administration of Charles F. Lummis, +were moved from the City Hall to the Laughlin Building. With the +opening of September, 1908, the Library was again moved by the same +Librarian, this time to the Hamburger Building.[49] + +On the evening of October 11th, 1909, I attended a banquet tendered to +President Taft by the City of Los Angeles, at the Shrine Auditorium. +Every honor was shown the distinguished guest, and his stay of two or +three days was devoted to much sight-seeing, to say nothing of the +patriotic efforts of many politicians whose laudable desire was to +whisper in the Presidential ear _à propos_ of government employment. + +The election of George Alexander as Mayor on November 10th, 1909 was +largely responsible for the later success of the Progressive +party--with whose Socialistic policies I am not in sympathy. W. C. +Mushet, the more acceptable candidate, ran on a ticket endorsed by +business-men organized under the chairmanship of M. H. Newmark, while +George A. Smith was the Republican candidate. Alexander's campaign was +managed by Meyer Lissner, an arrival of 1896 who had a brief +experience as a jeweler before he turned his attention to law. He +possessed much political sagacity, and was therefore quick to turn the +Alexander success to the advantage of Hiram Johnson who was soon +elected Governor. George N. Black, who came here a child in 1886, and +graduated from the Los Angeles High School, later being President of +the California State Realty Confederation and Grand President of the +Independent Order B'nai B'rith of this district, directed Smith's +campaign. + +On January 29th, 1910, the citizens of Los Angeles, under the +leadership of Max Meyberg, tendered to D. A. Hamburger (Chairman), +Perry W. Weidner, Fred L. Baker, William M. Garland, M. C. Neuner, +Dick Ferris and F. J. Zeehandelaar, the committee in charge of the +first Aviation Meet here, a banquet at the Alexandria Hotel. The +contests had occurred a few days before at Dominguez Field, on a part +of the once famous _rancho_; and to see the aërial antics of the huge +man-made birds, as they swiftly ascended and descended, was no less +nerve-racking, at least to me, than it was interesting. + +Litigation having established a clear title to the property once held +by the Sixth District Agricultural Association, and the State, the +declared owner, having agreed to lease the ground to the County and +the City for fifty years, decisive steps were taken in January, 1910, +by the Historical Society of Southern California to provide the Museum +building now such a source of civic pride. Other bodies, including the +Fine Arts League, the Southern California Academy of Science and a +branch of the Cooper Ornithological Society, were invited to +coöperate, each being promised a place in the park and museum plans; +and by the middle of February, the supervisors had agreed to vote the +necessary building funds. On July 11th, 1910, in the presence of a +large and representative gathering at Exposition Park, ground was +broken for the building, although the corner-stone was not laid until +the 10th of December. + + * * * * * + +In the dark hours of the night of April 25th, 1910, after an illness +of four days and almost entirely free from suffering, she who had +shared with me the joys and sorrows of over half a century was called +to her reward. She passed from this life as she had passed through +it--gently and uncomplainingly. I was left in the midst of a gloom +that I thought would be forever black; for six out of our eleven +children had preceded their mother, whose spirit on that night was +reunited with theirs. I was soon to find, however, how true it is that +"The Lord tempers the wind to the shorn lamb." Common misfortune and +common memories made but stronger the tie, always strong, between my +children and myself. Time has performed his kindly offices: he has +changed the anguish of grief to the solace of recollection; and in +assisting me to realize that I was permitted so long and so happy a +companionship, he has turned my heart from its first bitterness to +lasting gratitude. + +FOOTNOTES: + +[45] President, M. H. Newmark; First Vice-President, J. O. Koepfli; +Second Vice-President, C. C. Reynolds; Third Vice-President, F. W. +Braun; Treasurer, L. C. Scheller; Secretary, Charles Dwight Willard; +Directors: H. R. Boynton, J. Baruch, P. A. Benjamin, A. Douglass, I. +A. Lothian and D. Wiebers. + +[46] One of Dr. Alliot's most recent accomplishments is a +comprehensive _Bibliography of Arizona_, recently published--the +result of Dr. J. A. Munk's liberal provision. + +[47] On July 5th, 1915, Mr. and Mrs. S. Lazard celebrated their golden +wedding, Mrs. Lazard being the third daughter of Mr. and Mrs. Joseph +Newmark to enjoy the privilege--almost unique in a single family, and +that will become the more remarkable if Mrs. Eugene Meyer (the fourth +daughter) and her husband live to commemorate, on the 20th of +November, 1917, the fiftieth anniversary of their marriage. + +[48] The Supreme Court of the United States, on June 8th, 1914, +affirmed the decision of the Interstate Commerce Court, and thus was +obliterated this very iniquitous charge. + +[49] On June 1st, 1914, the Library--directed by Everett R. Perry, who +came to Los Angeles in the fall of 1911, from the staff of the New +York Public Library--was removed to the Metropolitan Building at the +northwest corner of Broadway and Fifth Street, its shelves, a month +later, holding 227,894 volumes. + + + + +CHAPTER XLIII + +RETROSPECTION + +1910-1913 + + +At one o'clock in the morning of October 1st, 1910, occurred the most +heinous crime in the history of Los Angeles. This was the dynamiting, +by the evil element of union labor, of the building and plant of the +Los Angeles _Times_, resulting in the sudden extinction of no less +than twenty human lives and the destruction of the property of the +corporation. The tragedy, lamented in obsequies of the most impressive +kind ever witnessed in this city, was followed by the construction, on +the same site and at the earliest moment, of the present home of the +_Times_. The trial of some of those deemed responsible for this +disaster brought to the fore John D. Fredericks, District Attorney[50] +in 1900, 1902, 1906 and 1910. + +Not the least of the many and far-reaching losses entailed through the +ruin of this printery was a _History of the Medical Profession of +Southern California_ by Dr. George H. Kress, with an introduction by +Dr. Walter Lindley--a work of extended research almost ready for +publication. After all such material as could be saved from the ruins +had been assembled, an abridged edition of the volume once planned was +issued. + +In strong contrast to this annihilation of man by his brother, were +the peaceful exercises marking the afternoon of the previous Sunday, +June 19th, when the Kaspare Cohn Hospital, on Stephenson Avenue, was +dedicated; a worthy charity made possible through the munificence, +several years before, of the pioneer after whom the hospital is named. + +As Superintendent of City Schools here for four years beginning in +1906, C. E. Moore laid the foundation for that national reputation +which, in July, 1910, led to his being called as a professor to Yale +University. + +Jacob A. Riis, the famous Danish-American sociologist, who was so +instrumental in cleaning up New York's tenement districts, visited Los +Angeles for the fourth time, on March 10th, 1911, lecturing at the +Temple Auditorium on "The Battle with the Slum." + +The City Council having created a Harbor Board, Mayor George +Alexander, in October, 1909, appointed Stoddard Jess, Thomas E. Gibbon +and M. H. Newmark as Commissioners. In March, 1911, at a popular +election, the Board was made a charter body, and Mayor Alexander +reappointed the gentlemen named. Owing, however, to the numerous +difficulties thrown in the way of the Commissioners in the +accomplishment of their work, M. H. Newmark resigned in December, 1911 +and Stoddard Jess in January, 1912; while Thomas E. Gibbon, for many +years one of the most formidable advocates of a free harbor, met with +such continued obstacles that he was compelled, in the summer of 1912, +to withdraw. + +Having left Los Angeles, as I have said, in 1879, Myer J. Newmark made +San Francisco his home until December, 1894, at which time he returned +here and became associated with Kaspare Cohn. In December, 1905, he +once more took up his abode in San Francisco where, on May 10th, 1911, +he died at the age of seventy-two years. + +The first issue of the Los Angeles _Tribune_, a wide-awake sheet +projected by Edwin T. Earl, owner of the _Express_, appeared on July +4th, flying the banner of the Progressive party, but making its +strongest appeal for support as the first one-cent morning newspaper +on the Coast, and a readable journal advocating the moral uplift of +the community. Like all the other newspapers of this period, the +_Tribune_ was illustrated with photo-engravings. + +In 1911, William R. Hearst, of national newspaper fame, bought the Los +Angeles _Daily Herald_, making it at the same time an evening +newspaper and placing it under the management of Guy B. Barham. The +latter had come to Southern California with his father, Richard M. +Barham, who located in 1873 at Anaheim, conducting there the old +Planters' Hotel. After school was out, Guy did chores. Graduating, he +worked for Hippolyte Cahen, the Anaheim merchant; then he kept books +for Eugene Meyer & Company, and in time became Deputy Internal Revenue +Collector. For some years he has been a Custom House broker, in which +activity, in addition to his newspaper work, he is still successfully +engaged. + +The Federal Telegraph Company, which had established itself in Los +Angeles in the fall of 1910, inaugurated in July, 1911 a wireless +service with San Francisco and other Coast cities; and just a year +later it effected communication with Honolulu, although oddly enough +at first, owing to atmospheric conditions, it was necessary to flash +all messages across the waste of waters during the night. For some +years, the giant steel masts erected by the Company in the +southwestern part of the city have puzzled the passer-by. + +At half-past three o'clock on November 28th, I turned the first +spadeful of earth in the breaking of ground for the Jewish Orphans' +Home of Southern California. This privilege was accorded me because, +in response to the oft-expressed wish of my wife to assist those +dependent children bereft of their natural protectors, I had helped, +in a measure, shortly after her demise, to assure the success of the +proposed asylum. + +Sixteen years after Colonel Griffith J. Griffith agreeably surprised +Los Angeles in the presentation of Griffith Park, his munificent +bounty again manifested itself in another Christmas donation, that of +one hundred thousand dollars for the construction of an observatory on +Mount Hollywood, the highest point in Griffith Park. Incidental to the +making of this gift, due official recognition of the Colonel's +large-heartedness was displayed at a public meeting in the City Hall, +in which I had the honor of participating. + +M. A. Newmark & Company in February, 1912 removed to their present +quarters on Wholesale Street--a building (it may some day be +interesting to note) five stories high with a floor space of one +hundred and thirty thousand square feet. + +In common with the rest of the civilized world, Los Angeles, on April +15th, was electrified with the news of the collision between an +iceberg and the great ocean steamer _Titanic_ which so speedily +foundered with her 1535 helpless souls. For a day or two, it was hoped +that no one with Los Angeles connections would be numbered among the +lost; but fate had decreed that my nephew, Edgar J. Meyer, a son of +Mr. and Mrs. Eugene Meyer, should perish. He was one of those who +heroically hastened to the aid of the women and children; nor did he +rest until he saw his wife and child placed in one of the lifeboats. +They were saved, but he went down, with other gallant men, among whom +I may mention Walter M. Clark, son of J. Ross Clark, of this city. + +Nor can I refrain, while mentioning this awful catastrophe, from +alluding to another example of courage and conjugal devotion[51] than +which, perhaps, neither song nor story portrays one more sublime. As +the huge liner was sinking into the dark abyss, one frail woman +declined to become the beneficiary of that desperate command, "_Women +and children first!_" The wife of Isadore Straus, unafraid though face +to face with Death and Eternity, still clung to her loyal husband, +refusing, even in that terrible moment, to leave him. She chose rather +to die by his side; and as the black sea roared out its chill welcome, +it received one who, in the manner of her going, left a precious +heritage for all mankind. + + [Illustration: Harris Newmark, at the Dedication of M. A. Newmark & + Co.'s Establishment, 1912] + + [Illustration: J. P. Newmark, about 1890] + + [Illustration: Harris Newmark Breaking Ground for the Jewish Orphans' + Home, November 28th, 1911] + +Through a high school friendship of my son Marco I came to know quite +well one who, though physically handicapped, acquired much +international fame. I refer to Homer Lea, a native of Denver, who came +to Los Angeles in 1890, at the age of fourteen, studied at the High +School, Occidental College and at Stanford, and then conceived the +monumental idea of freeing the Chinese from the despotism of the old +Manchurian dynasty. Making his first trip to China in 1900, he took an +active part in a revolutionary campaign; and returning to America a +Lieutenant-General and a force in the Chinese Republican party, he +devoted himself to drilling Chinese troops, and to literary work, some +of his writings, notably _The Valor of Ignorance_, when widely +translated, bringing him repute as a military strategist. Having +married Mrs. Ethel Powers, General Lea, late in 1911, joined Dr. Sun +Yat Sen, the Chinese leader, and proceeded with him from London to +Shanghai, only to arrive there after the revolution had actually +started. Even then success was not to crown his labors; during the +convention called to establish the Republic, General Lea was stricken +with paralysis and his public career was at an end. He returned to +Southern California; and at Ocean Park on November 1st, 1912, while +looking out toward the land that he loved so well, Homer Lea yielded +up his soul. He was not destined to see the fulfillment of his dream; +but when the people for whom he labored shall some day have +established a true democracy, his name will loom large in their +history. + +In December, the Museum of History, Science and Art, so favorably +situated in Exposition Park, was informally opened[52] to the public +under the scholarly administration of Dr. Frank S. Daggett, who had +been appointed Director the year previous; and during the few months +following, Professor Daggett, backed by the Board of Supervisors, +carried forward with such enterprise the excavations of the pits at La +Brea _rancho_ that, before the ornate building was ready to receive +the finds, a unique collection of fossils invaluable for the study of +California fauna had been assembled. The discovery of these evidences +of primeval animal life, already concentrating the attention of the +scientific world, may well be regarded with pride by every Southern +Californian; while the proper housing here of precious souvenirs +recalling those whose lives have contributed so much to making Los +Angeles what it was and is, will permanently add to the attractions of +the Southland. + +Pluckily resisting the inroads of an insidious disease, yet cheerful +under all the discouraging circumstances and as deeply interested as +ever in the welfare of this community, Charles Dwight Willard has been +confined to his home for many months. On my last visit I found him +very feeble,[53] though still fired with a resistless enthusiasm; the +power of his mind asserting itself over the flesh in forcible, if +quiet, expression. We sat in a comfortable little bower at his home on +San Rafael Heights, with Mrs. Willard, his faithful companion; and +after he had uttered an earnest desire to see these memoirs published, +we chatted about his life and his activities here. Born in Illinois +and graduating from the University of Michigan, an affection of the +lungs, brought on by an attack of typhoid fever, induced him in 1888 +to come to Los Angeles in search of a milder climate. His first +occupation here was to serve as a reporter for the _Times_, and then +for the morning _Herald_. In 1891, he was elected Secretary of the +Chamber of Commerce; and during the six years of his incumbency he +raised the membership from one hundred and fifty to a thousand, at the +same time contributing in a powerful manner to the leading part played +by this organization in the fight for a free harbor. During that +period also, in conjunction with Frank A. Pattee and Harry Brook (both +well-known wielders of the pen), he started the _Land of Sunshine_ +(six months later taken over by Charles F. Lummis, as editor, and in +1902 renamed the _Out West Magazine_;) while in 1897 he assumed the +management of the Los Angeles _Express_, from which he resigned two +years later. In 1892, he organized with others the Municipal League, +serving it ever since as either Secretary or Vice-President, and in +the same energetic way in which he toiled as Secretary of the +Associated Jobbers. In his literary capacity, Willard has been equally +efficient, being the author of a compact _History of Los Angeles_, a +_History of the Los Angeles Chamber of Commerce_, _The Free Harbor +Contest_ and a high school text-book on city government, all of +which, as well as contributions to the San Francisco _Argonaut_, have +been favorably received by a discerning public. + +Frank Wiggins' name is considered by many of his friends a synonym for +that of the Chamber of Commerce. Like his predecessor, Charles D. +Willard, Wiggins came to California for his health; and upon its +restoration, identified himself with the Chamber of Commerce on +September 17th, 1889, becoming Secretary in 1897. Although ferociously +bewhiskered, he is the mildest and best-natured man in town. He has +had charge, in all parts of the country, of many exhibits so unique +and so successful that he is known from coast to coast. + +On May 24th, 1913, while many thousand people were assembled at Long +Beach for a Southern California celebration of Empire Day, one of the +worst of local catastrophes occurred through the caving-in of the +defective floor of a crowded dancing pavilion. Medical and police aid +were at once despatched from Los Angeles; but the result of the +accident, the death of forty persons and injury to many more, cast a +deep spell over the two cities. + +Dr. Charles F. Lummis, assisted by other public-spirited men and women +of Los Angeles including Lieutenant-General Adna R. Chaffee[54] (the +first President), Joseph Scott, Mrs. Clara B. Burdette, Miss Mary E. +Foy, M. H. Newmark and William Lacy, on the last day of 1907 +incorporated the Southwest Museum.[55] On the 1st of March, 1910, Dr. +Lummis, celebrating his fifty-first birthday, conveyed to the Museum +his priceless collection of _Americana_. A sightly eminence of +seventeen acres near Sycamore Grove was secured; and on November 16th, +1912, ground was broken with the formalities usual to such events, the +first spadeful being turned by Miss Elizabeth Benton Frémont, daughter +of the Pathfinder, followed by General Chaffee and Dr. Lummis. An +inspiring feature of the day was the raising by Miss Frémont and +General Chaffee of the same flag that on August 16th, 1842 General +Frémont had unfurled on the crest of the Rocky Mountains. On this +occasion Henry W. O'Melveny presented a certified check for fifty +thousand dollars, the bequest of Mrs. Carrie M. Jones. This auspicious +beginning was followed, on July 9th, 1913, by the pouring of the first +concrete.[56] How broadly and well those have built who planned this +much-needed institution may be seen from both the distinguishing +architectural features of the structure, including the caracole tower +of cement, and the location--one of the most notable occupied by any +museum in the United States. + +Dr. J. A. Munk, an Ohioan, to whom I have just referred, has not been +in Los Angeles as long as many others, having arrived only in 1892, +but he is known among his friends for his charming personality, and +among historians and scientists for his splendid collection of +_Arizoniana_--commenced on his first trip to Arizona in 1884--all of +which has been given to the Southwest Museum. + +Among the features of the Southwest Museum is the large square, or +so-called Torrance Tower, the funds for which were generously provided +by Jared S. Torrance, whose residence in Pasadena dates from 1887. In +that year he came from the Empire State; and ever since he has been an +active participator in the development of Southern California. The +town of Torrance is an example of his enterprise. + +My sixty years' residence in Los Angeles has been by no means free +from the ordinary family cares, vicissitudes and sorrows, and it seems +proper that I should refer to the physicians who, in times of illness, +have ministered to the comfort of my home and its inmates. Our first +doctor was John S. Griffin, and he continued in that capacity until I +left for New York. Shortly before 1873, Dr. Griffin, whose advancing +age compelled him to withdraw from general practice, had been calling +Dr. Joseph Kurtz into consultation; and it was then that the latter +became my family physician. For a short time, I consulted Dr. Charles +A. H. De Szigethy, a relic of the old school, whose nauseating doses +were proverbial; and then Dr. John R. Haynes, now well known as an +advocate of Socialism, who had arrived from Philadelphia in May, 1887, +assumed the responsibility. Again a long period elapsed before events +caused a change. In the year 1897, my nephew, Dr. Philip Newmark, came +to Los Angeles from Berlin and succeeded Dr. Haynes. + +Notwithstanding these mutations and cares, my friends have often +insisted that I am quick and perhaps even sprightly for my age, and +have more than once asked to what I attribute this activity and +alertness. It is due, I think, first, to the inheritance from my +parents of a strong constitution; and, secondly, to the preservation +of my health by a moderate, though never over-abstemious, manner of +living. + +To begin with, ever since I traveled with my father in Sweden, I have +kept my mind healthfully employed, while I have never long deprived +myself of rest. I have also always used tobacco and liquor in +moderation; and in this connection I can testify that, although wine +and beer were at the free disposal of my children, they have grown up +to use it either most temperately or not at all. This fact I ascribe +to liberal views on such subjects; for it has always been my belief +that to prohibit is to invite, whereas to furnish a good example and +at the same time to warn, is to insure rational restriction and +limitation. In short, in preparation for a vigorous old age, I have +followed as closely as I could the ancient ideal, "A sound mind in a +sound body." + +At the age of nineteen, I came to Los Angeles; and after a lapse of +exactly sixty years--that is, on October 21st, 1913--I find myself +completing these reminiscences, ruminating on the past, and attempting +a prophecy for the future. + +A battle of eighty years with the world cannot, in the nature of human +affairs, leave any man or woman unscarred; but I have learned many +things, and among them the consolations of philosophy. It would be +presumption on my part to make complaint against the inscrutable +decrees of that Providence which guides the destinies of us all; I +dwell, rather, on the manifold blessings which have been my lot in +this life--the decision of Fate which cast my lines in the pleasant +places of Southern California; the numerous excellent and estimable +friends whom I have met on life's highway; the many years of happiness +vouchsafed me to enjoy; and, finally, whatever degree of success has +attended my more serious efforts. + +When I came, Los Angeles was a sleepy, ambitionless adobe village with +very little promise for the future. The messenger of Optimism was +deemed a dreamer; but time has more than realized the fantasies of +those old village oracles, and what they said would some day come to +pass in Los Angeles, has come and gone, to be succeeded by things much +greater still. We possessed however, even in that distant day, one +asset, intangible it is true, but as invaluable as it was +intangible--the spirit popularly called "Western," but which, after +all, was largely the pith of transferred Eastern enterprise. This +characteristic seized upon a vast wilderness--the same which Daniel +Webster declared, in the Senate of the United States, unworthy of +membership in the sisterhood of States; and within this extensive area +it builded great cities, joined its various parts with steel and iron, +made great highways out of the once well-nigh impassable cattle-paths, +and from an elemental existence developed a complex civilization. Nor +is there to-day in all this region a greater or finer city than fair +Los Angeles. + +Many of us saw it grow; none of us foresaw that growth, even from +decade to decade. + +"Westward the course of empire takes its way." When Bishop Berkeley so +poetically proclaimed this historic truth, even he could hardly have +had in mind the shores of the Pacific; but here we have an empire, and +one whose future is glorious. This flourishing city stands, in fact, +with its half million or more human beings and its metropolitan +activities, at the threshold of a new era. The operations of Nature +change so slowly as to show almost no change at all: the Southern +California of the coming years will still possess her green hills and +vales, her life-giving soil, her fruits, flowers and grain, and the +same sun will shine upon her with the same generous warmth, out of the +same blue sky, as ever. The affairs of men, on the other hand, change +rapidly. After gigantic labor initiated but ten short years ago, the +Panamá Canal is dedicated to the use of mankind, and through its +crowded waters will come the ships of every nation, bringing to the +marts of Los Angeles choice products to be exchanged for our own. For +this and other reasons, I believe that Los Angeles is destined to +become, in not many years, a world-center, prominent in almost every +field of human endeavor; and that, as nineteen hundred years ago the +humblest Roman, wherever he might find himself, would glow with pride +when he said, "I am a Roman!" so, in the years to come, will the son +of the metropolis on these shores, wheresoever his travels may take +him, be proud to declare, + + "I AM A CITIZEN OF LOS ANGELES!" + + +FOOTNOTES: + +[50] In 1914, Fredericks was the Republican candidate for the +Governorship of California. + +[51] Even while this manuscript is being revised, the name of another +Angeleño--that of the lamented A. C. Bilicke, a self-made man of large +accomplishments, who perished on May 7th, 1915, in the awful +destruction of the _Lusitania_--is added to the scrolls of the +ill-starred. + +[52] The formal dedication took place on November 5th, 1913. + +[53] During the night of January 21st, 1914, Willard died--on the +anniversary of his birth. + +[54] Died on November 1st, 1914. + +[55] The present officers are: President, Dr. Norman Bridge; +Vice-Presidents, Mrs. Clara B. Burdette, Joseph Scott and J. S. +Torrance; Founder Emeritus, Charles F. Lummis; Treasurer, Stoddard +Jess; Curator, Hector Alliot; Directors, Dr. Norman Bridge, Robert N. +Bulla, Mrs. Clara B. Burdette, E. P. Clark, Charles F. Lummis, Dr. J. +A. Munk, M. H. Newmark, Joseph Scott and J. S. Torrance. + +[56] On December 6th, 1913, the corner-stone for the building already +looming large was laid by the Rt. Reverend Thomas J. Conaty--the +broad-minded, scholarly and much-respected Bishop of Monterey and Los +Angeles, who died on September 18th, 1915--and by General Chaffee. + + + + +INDEX + + + A + + Abalones, 427; shells as jewelry, 261; gatherer trapped, 428 + + Abarca, Luis (Louis), 63 + + Abarta, Señorita, 526 + + Abbotsford Inn, 566, 627 + + Abbott, William and Mrs. (_née_ Garcia), 186 + + Abell, J. B., 543 + + Ábila, Francisco, 100 + + Ábila, H., 403 + + Ábila, José María and Señora, 100 + + Ábila ranch, 447; springs, 210 + + Abolitionists, 296, 308 + + _Acacia latifolia_, 544 + + Acapulco, 359 + + Acorns, as Indian food, 203 + + Aqueduct, Owens River, 50 + + _Active_, U. S. ship, 251 + + Adams, Lionel J., 636 + + Adams, Professor, 419 + + Adams Street, 459 + + Adams & Co., 242 + + _Ada Hancock_, disaster to steamer, 75, 109, 132, 154, 295, + 300, 316, 319, 329 + + Adelsdorfer Bros., 120 + + Adler, Adelaide (later Mrs. Samuel Hellman), 142 + + Adler, Caroline (later Mrs. I. M. Hellman), 142 + + Adobe, municipal and county, 36, 40, 41, 209, 256, 324, 338, + 530 + + Adobes, 31, 32, 38, 61, 62, 63, 65, 66, 67, 73, 76, 78, 80, + 81, 94, 97, 99, 100, 101, 103, 104, 109, 113, 115, 119, 121, + 124, 134, 147, 165, 167, 193, 197, 202, 220, 256, 257, 263, + 293, 317, 335, 343, 347, 372, 376, 396, 444, 466, 492, 510, + 518, 620 + + _Adrienne Lecouvreur_, Modjeska in, 494 + + Advertisements, 137, 151, 177, 281, 292, 297, 396, 422, 465, + 469, 486, 492, 558; pictures in, 356 + + Advertising, freak, 571; boom --, 573ff. + + Æneas, xiii + + Africa, 193, 211 + + Agricultural Park, 462, 640; -- Society, 426 + + Agua Caliente, 50, 92, 414 + + _Aguardiente_, 134, 278 + + Aguilar, Casildo, 147 + + Aguilar, Cristóbal, 66, 98, 100, 120, 366, 445 + + Aguilar, José María, 210 + + Aguirre, José António, 174 + + Aguirre, Martin G., 551 + + Alameda Street, 63, 112, 187, 197, 201, 304, 383, 394, 400, + 408, 493, 562 + + Alamitos, Los, 599, 520 + + Alamitos Bay, 374, 630 + + Alamitos ranch, 166, 329 + + Alaska, 397, 463, 602 + + Albacore, 628 + + Albino, exhibition of, 186 + + Albuquerque, 222 + + Alder, 197 + + Alder, Captain, 251 + + Alexander, David W., 23, 35, 38, 43, 61, 64, 74, 120, 218, + 343, 350, 441, 500; Mrs. -- (formerly Mrs. Francis Mellus), + 227; -- & Banning, 218; -- & Mellus, 62, 151 + + Alexander, Frank, 206 + + Alexander, George, 639, 642 + + Alexander, George C., 74, 194, 297 + + Alexander, Henry N., 39, 241, 260; Mrs. --, 39 + + Alexander, Ramón (Raimundo), 59, 64, 193 + + Alexandria Hotel, 77, 639 + + Alfilaria, 126 + + Alhambra and A. Tract, 445, 454, 563, 628 + + Alisal, El, 543 + + _Aliso, El_, 198 + + _Aliso_, meaning of, 197 + + Aliso Mill, 198, 218, 303, 499 + + Aliso Road, 198, 412; -- Street, 71, 112, 197, 198, 238, + 288, 292, 400 + + Aliso Vineyard, 197, 198 + + Allanson, Horace S., 62, 256 + + Allen Block, 372 + + Allen, Charles H., 532 + + Allen, Gabriel, 221 + + Allen, Jesse, 414, 416 + + Alliot, Hector, 635, 636, 647 + + Alosta, 579; Lamar's Addition to, 579 + + _Alta California_, 270 + + Altadena, 178, 337 + + Alta Vista, 579 + + Alton, John, 606 + + Altschul, Richard, 230 + + Alvarado house, the, 115 + + Alvitre, Felipe, 139 + + Alvitre, José Claudio, 147 + + Amat, Thaddeus, 189, 279 + + America, foreign ideas as to, 361 + + _America_, steamship, 149 + + American Bakery, 405 + + American boy, first born here, 33 + + American Colony, 521 + + American Express Co., 234 + + American Fork, 155 + + Amestoy, Domingo, 310, 421; -- Building, 537 + + _Amigo del Pueblo, El_, 308 + + _Amigos, Los dos_, 64 + + Amo, Dr. del, 174 + + Amusements, 102, 124, 135, 161, 182, 183, 186, 192, 229, + 263, 282, 286, 318, 352, 372, 381, 383, 384, 409, 422, 463, + 488, 547, 569, 592, 596, 605 + + Anaheim, 177, 212, 309, 329, 376, 398, 401, 406, 441, 451, + 526, 580, 593 + + Anaheim, proposed County of, 406, 593 + + _Anaheim Gazette_, 414 + + Anaheim Landing, 366 + + Anchorage, 404 + + _Ancon_, steamer, 465 + + Anderson, D., 83, 297 + + Anderson, J. A., 638 + + Anderson, John, 476 + + Anderson, W. P., 627 + + Andersonville, 295 + + Andrews, Harry E., 616 + + Anecdotes, 43, 51, 52, 53, 56, 82, 141, 151, 155, 162, 175, + 176, 177, 183, 190, 196, 222, 269, 283, 300, 301, 325, 336, + 337, 338, 345, 419, 458, 474, 492, 523, 579, 598, 610 + + Angelus Hotel, 508 + + Angels, City of the, 25, 68 + + Animals, Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to, 548 + + Antelope Station, 415 + + Apablasa, Juan, 31 + + Apache Indians, 188, 415 + + Apothecaries' Hall, 156 + + Appleton & Co., D., 589; _Appleton's Journal_, 430 + + Apponyi, C. E., 559 + + Arbuckle, Samuel G., 36, 65 + + Arcade Depot, 112 + + Arcadia, 574, 578, 579 + + Arcadia Block, 77, 186, 214, 226, 229, 256, 272, 293, 309, + 313, 338, 342, 343, 537, 545 + + Arcadia, Doña (see under Baker, Bandini, Stearns) + + Arcadia Hall (see Stearns Hall) + + Arcadia Hotel, 314, 568, 580 + + Arcadia Street, 226, 408, 518 + + Archæological Institute of America, 626 + + Archer Freight and Fare Bill, 489 + + Archibald, John, 412 + + Archives, L. A., removed to San Francisco, 231 + + Ardinger, William C., 150 + + Arenas, Luis, 179, 210 + + _Argonaut_, San Francisco, 525, 647 + + Arguello, Concepción, 99 + + Arguello, María António, 473 + + Arguello, Refúgio, 255 + + Arguello, Santiago, 99, 177, 255 + + Arizona, 222, 354, 361, 366, 370, 414, 430, 431, 450, 507, + 510, 514, 542, 587, 648 + + _Arizona, Bibliography of_, 636 + + _Arizoniana_, 648 + + Arlington Heights, 357 + + Armory Hall, 205; new --, 579; --, San Francisco, 312 + + Armour, Phil D., 582; -- & Co., 582, 623 + + Arnold, Thomas, 422 + + Arroyo de los Reyes, 450 + + Arroyo Seco, 225, 401, 448 + + Artesian wells and water company, 192, 313, 574 + + Arza, Syriaco, 262 + + Asparagus, 125 + + Asphalt, 114; for sidewalks, 114, 287 + + Aspinwall, 315 + + Assayers, 130 + + Associated Jobbers of Los Angeles, 619, 635, 637; of + Southern California, 619 + + Atchison, Topeka & Santa Fé Railroad, 63, 83, 123, 153, 482, + 556, 562, 569, 570, 576, 581, 585, 597, 603, 614, 619; coast + line, 589; depot, 477, 586; first train, 549 + + Atkinson, Samuel, 393 + + Atlantic & Pacific Railroad, 614 + + Atlantic States, imports from, 151 + + Auctioneers and auctioneering, 155, 281, 349, 379, 483, 484, + 523, 578, 580 + + Austin, Henry C., 427, 434 + + Australia, 160, 439, 544; noted --n convict, 21 + + Austria, 564; Austrian Verein, 584 + + Automobiles, 626 + + Avalon, 430, 522, 568 + + Averill, Anna, 533 + + Aviation meet, first, 639 + + Ávila, Juan, 262 + + Axtell, S. B., 397, 399 + + Ayers, James J., 427, 499, 501, 556, 614 + + _Ayuntamiento_, 100 + + Aztec, derivation from the, 364 + + Azusa and Azusa ranch, 87, 162, 174, 326, 476, 578, 579 + + + B + + Babylon, xi + + Bachman, Felix, 66, 212, 256, 275, 290; -- & Co., 223, 290, + 332; -- & Bauman, 61 + + Baer, Abraham, 337; Mrs. --, 338, 409 + + Baer, Henry, 337 + + Baer, John Willis, 566 + + Bahama Islands, 14 + + Bahia, Brazil, 451 + + Bailes, 528 + + Baker, Arcadia (_née_ Bandini), 215, 255, 568 + + Baker, Charles K., 206 + + Baker, Edward Dickenson, 285 + + Baker, Francis, 221 + + Baker, Frederick, xv + + Baker, Fred L., 592, 639 + + Baker, George the, 192 + + Baker, Horace, xv + + Baker, J. H., 447 + + Baker, Milo, 592; -- Iron Works, 592 + + Baker, R. S., 143, 181, 215, 255, 421, 437, 459, 467, 479, + 510, 568, 586 + + Baker, Mrs. T. J., 214 + + Baker Block, 70, 356, 510, 517, 518, 556 + + Bakers and bakeries, 77, 191, 244, 311, 332, 367, 368 + + Bakersfield, 143, 453, 496 + + Baldwin, E. J. ("Lucky"), 282, 421, 474, 475, 478, 510, 526; + --'s Grain Warehouse, 475; -- Hotel, 475 + + Baldwin & Co., 130 + + Baldwin, Jeremiah, 587 + + Baldwin, John M., 450 + + Ball, W. F., 551 + + _Ballad of Bouillabaisse_, 118 + + Ballestero, María, 99 + + Ballona, La, 179, 299, 321, 359, 375, 460, 580; Port --, + 581; --Railroad, 576 + + Balls, 109, 284, 427 + + Banbury, Colonel, 579 + + Bandini, Alfredo, 255 + + Bandini, Arcadia (later Señora Stearns and Señora Baker), + 255 + + Bandini, Arcadia (later Mrs. J. T. Gaffey), 631 + + Bandini, Arturo, 255 + + Bandini, Dolores (later Mrs. Johnson), 255 + + Bandini, Dolores (later Mrs. Ward), 631 + + Bandini, José María, 255 + + Bandini, Josefa (later Señora P. C. Carrillo), 255 + + Bandini, Juan 109, 135, 183, 254, 391, 631; Señora -- (_née_ + Estudillo), 255; Señora -- (_née_ Arguello), 255 + + Bandini, Juan B., 631 + + Bandini, Juan de la Cruz, 255 + + Bandini, Juanito, 255 + + Bandini, Margarita (later Mrs. J. B. Winston), 183, 255 + + Bandits (_bandidos_), 206, 333, 453 + + Bangs, Mrs. Emma C., 532 + + Banks and bankers, 171, 242, 416, 423, 435, 466, 467, 482; + first --, 372; b. failures, 423, 479, 482; B. of California, + 477, 478; -- of L. A., 423; Commercial --, 472; First Nat'l + --, 472. (See Farmers & Merchants' --.) + + Banning, Hancock, 522, 568, 606 + + Banning, J. B., 522, 568 + + Banning, Phineas, 23, 35, 42, 74, 157, 199, 218, 236, 248, + 250, 274, 276, 283, 296, 301, 306, 313, 320, 321, 322, 327, + 343, 345, 346, 353, 354, 356, 361, 363, 368, 370, 375, 394, + 410, 412, 421, 426, 441, 495, 500, 507, 548, 562, 568; -- + Mrs. (_née_ Sanford), 320; (_née_ Hollister), 368, 411; -- & + Alexander, 187; -- & Co., 290, 302, 336, 343, 344, 395; -- & + Hinchman, 274, 307, 313 + + Banning, William, 522, 568 + + Banquets, 254, 399, 594, 595, 630, + + Barbecues, 145, 202 + + Barbers, 137, 297, 396, 412, 420; as surgeons, 297 + + Barcelona, Spain, 490 + + Barclay, H. A., 520 + + Barham, Guy B., 643 + + Barham, Richard M., 643 + + Barker, Obadiah Truax, 518; -- & Mueller, O. T. -- & Sons, + -- Bros., 518 + + Barker, partner of Corbitt, 244 + + Barker, W. A., 606 + + Barley, 247, 331, 354, 386, 534 + + Barnard Bros., 450 + + Barnes & Co., A. S., 418 + + Barnum, P. T., 13 + + Barracuda, 127 + + Barrett, Lawrence, 588 + + Barri, Juan, 62, 65; -- & Mascarel Block, 189 + + Barrows, Henry Dwight, 69, 106, 141, 200, 202, 219, 224, + 246, 284, 315, 355, 419, 483, 541, 614; Mrs. -- (_née_ + Wolfskill), 142; (_née_ Woodworth), 142; (_née_ Greene), 142 + + Barrows, James Arnold, 142; Mrs. --, xv + + Barrows, Prospero, xv + + Barter, George W., 414 + + Bartlett, A. G., 68, 579 + + Bartolo, Paso de, 180 + + Barton, James R., 36, 55, 81, 118, 139, 179, 206ff., 223, + 244, 275; -- & Nordholt, 61; -- Vineyard, 281 + + Bartow, Mrs. R. C., xv + + Baruch, Jacob, 367, 425, 619, 634, 635 + + Baseball, called town-ball, 596 + + Bashford, Levi, 416 + + Basques, 310, 549 + + Bassett, J. M., 450 + + Bastanchury, Domingo, 310 + + Batcheller, Charles L., 598 + + Bathing, in ocean, 466; in river, 116; in _zanjas_, 322 + + Baths and bathrooms, 92, 119, 210, 371, 396 + + Bath Street, 210; -- School, 33, 190, 389, 419 + + Bath, A. L., 358, 614 + + Bayer, Joe, 231; -- & Sattler, 230 + + Beaches, excursions to, 250, 429, 486, 487; growing + popularity of, 394 + + Beale, E. F., 143, 222, 285, 459; --'s Route, 222; -- & + Baker, 437 + + Beale, Truxton, 460 + + Beal(l), B. L., 204, 317, 469 + + Bean, J. H., 50; --'s Volunteers, 47 + + Beane, Charles E., 446 + + Beans, 332; castor --, 364 + + Bears, 195, 291, 337, 447 + + Bear Valley Mines, 247, 268 + + Beard, A. S., 36 + + Beau de Zart, Fred W., 559 + + Beaudry, Prudent, 61, 70, 73, 128, 132, 142, 164, 165, 211, + 291, 292, 342ff., 353, 362, 365, 366, 372, 386, 408, 412, + 417, 449, 558, 567, 618 + + Beaudry, Victor, 241, 386, 558, 567 + + Beaudry Avenue, 74 + + Beaudry & Marchessault, 247 + + Beaumont, 579 + + Beckley, Anna McConnell, xv + + Beckwith, Jim, 63 + + Beebe, J. W., 339 + + Beebe, Richard, 543 + + Beecher, Henry Ward, 497 + + Beel, Sigmund, xv + + Beer, 123, 230, 258, 272, 273, 402; -- gardens, 193, 409, + 460 + + Beers, G. A., 455 + + Bees and beehives, 81, 127, 494 + + Beet-sugar, 388; first factory, 598 + + Behn, John, 64, 86, 364 + + Behn, Louisa, 364 + + Behrendt, Casper, 72, 270, 271 + + Behrendt, Samuel, xv + + Behymer, Lynden Ellsworth, 607 + + Belgian hare aberration, 608 + + Bell, Alexander, 57, 61, 383, 429; Mrs. --, 38, 61, 133 + + Bell, Horace, 35, 57 + + Bell, Jacob, 40, 419 + + Bell, Major, 224 + + _Bell, Song of the_, 119 + + Bell Street, 61 + + Bella Union, 25, 27, 80, 92, 93, 94, 110, 136, 150, 154, + 169, 183, 184, 219, 223, 226, 227, 228, 229, 245, 250, 251, + 256, 265, 269, 271, 272, 291, 306, 316, 327, 341, 347, 348, + 349, 354, 358, 362, 369, 380, 397, 398, 399, 400, 436, 469, + 472 + + Bella Union, San Francisco, 22 + + Belleville, 268 + + Bellevue Terrace, 532, 559 + + Bells, Plaza Church, 101 + + Bell's Row or Block, 27, 57, 61, 119, 362 + + Bellue, Marius, 551 + + Belmont, the, 559 + + Belmont Hall, 563 + + Belshaw (of Judson & --), 385 + + Benedict, Samuel W., 476 + + Bengough, E., and the -- School, 494 + + Benjamin, P. A., 635 + + Benjamina, 528 + + Benner, John, 78; Mrs. --, 527 + + Bennett, "Hog," 78 + + Bent, Arthur S., xv + + Bent, Henry Kirk White, 386, 443, 446 + + Bergin, J. J. and W. B., 470 + + Berkeley, George, 650 + + Berlin, University of, 624 + + Bernard, Juan, 63, 200, 280, 366; Mrs. --, 63 + + Bernero, George, 554 + + Bernstein, Fanny, 535 + + Berry, D. M., 412, 447ff., 483 + + Berry, George, 138 + + _Bessie_, steamboat, 387 + + Best, John T., 352 + + Bethune, 579 + + Betting on races, 160; with cattle, merchandise, land, 161 + + _Between the Gates_, 514 + + Beythien, Cyrus, 212 + + Bicknell, Frederick T., 488 + + Bicknell, John D., 468, 488, 540, 555, 597, 598, 626; -- & + White, 540 + + Bicycles, 626 + + Bien, William, 605 + + Biggs, Peter, 60, 137, 138, 330 + + Bigotry, Russian, 5; a later phase of local social life, 383 + + Bilderback Brothers, 424 + + Bilderback, J. F., 330 + + Bilderback, Dora, xv + + Bilderrain, Jesus, 432 + + Bilicke, A. C., 492, 606, 644 + + Bill (Hickey), the Waterman, 116, 117, 350 + + Billiards and b. tables, 81, 261, 384 + + _Billy Blossom_, race horse, 282 + + Binford, Joe, 373, 545 + + Bird, O. B., 567 + + Birdsall, Elias, 339, 340 + + Bishop, Samuel A., 143; -- & Beale, 143, 234 + + Bishop & Co., 444, 545 + + Bissell, W. A., 619 + + Bits (coin), 162, 279, 461; (harness), 159 + + Bixby, Eula P., 355 + + Bixby, John W., 421, 520 + + Bixby, Jotham, 67, 166, 403, 421, 422, 467, 520; -- & Co., + 521 + + Bixby, Llewellyn, 67, 421 + + _Black Bess_, circus horse, 453 + + Black, George N., 639 + + Blacking, early, 4 + + _Black Maria_, 118 + + Blacksmiths, 82, 115, 140, 153, 213, 231, 340, 357, 358 + + Blackstone, N. B., 536 + + _Black Swan_, race horse, 160, 161; dray, 279 + + _Black Warrior_, race horse, 282 + + Blair, Widow, 184 + + Blanchard F. L., 68; -- Hall, 68, 536 + + Blanchard, J. H., 597 + + Blanco, Miguel, 209 + + Bland, Adam, 103, 246; Mrs. --, 106 + + Blankets, Mexican, 29, 158 + + Bleeding, 297 + + Blinn, L. W., 606 + + Blond, J. H., 94 + + Bloodsworth, Harry, 58 + + Bluett, W. C., 606 + + _Blue Jim_, carrier pigeon, 430 + + Blue Wing Shaving Saloon, 396 + + Blum, A., 608 + + B'nai B'rith, 314, 338, 339, 608; used for Christian + worship, 618 + + Boar, wild, 447 + + Board of Education, 105, 162, 187, 190, 211, 216, 262, 321, + 354, 388, 538, 539, 547, 626 + + Board of Trade, attempt to organize, 425, 537, 569, 586, 634 + + Boardman, William E., 246 + + Boehme, George, 480 + + Bohen, Daniel, 356; -- Lodge, 402 + + Bollo, Santiago, 78 + + Bonaparte, Napoleon, 1 + + Bonebrake, George H., 539, 587 + + Bonita Tract, 579 + + Bonnets, all of one pattern, 132 + + Bonshard, F., 413 + + Book, J. H., 587 + + Bookbinders, 213, 410 + + Bookstores, 428 + + Boom, development of the Great, 569; height of, 581; + collapse of, 582; activities of tricksters, 573; advertising + during, 573-580; assessments, 582; purchases of land by + non-residents, 582; 174, 232, 367, 379, 556, 559, 560, 563, + 568, 569ff., 590, 604 + + Boom, early real estate, 401 + + Boorham, George, 153 + + Bootblacks, 396 + + Booth, Edwin, 494, 588 + + Booth, Willis H., 631 + + Boot-jacks, 87 + + Boots, 86, 158 + + Boquist, C. V., xv Borax and Owens Lake, 387 + + Bordenave & Co., Émile, 279 + + Bors, the miller, 351 + + _Boston_, clipper-brig, 237 + + Boston Dry Goods Store, 536 + + Boston, market for wool, 438; fire, 438 + + Boswell, James, xi + + _Bota de agua_, 195 + + Botello, Refúgio, 78 + + Bothnia, Gulf of, 5 + + _Boticas_, 110 + + Botiller, D., 63 + + Boundary League, 622 + + Bouelle, A., 385 + + Bouelle, Frank A., 385 + + Bounties to encourage silk industry, 390 + + Bouton, Edward, 374, 472 + + Bovard, F. D., 516 + + Bovard, M. M., 516, 566 + + Bowman, Mary, xv + + Boyce, H. H., 555 + + Boyle, Andrew, 198, 232; Mrs. --, 232; -- Avenue, 220; -- + Heights, 198, 202, 232, 374, 492, 551, 598 + + Boynton, H. R., 635, 637 + + Bradbury, John, 607 + + Bradbury Block, 513, 614 + + Bradfield, Mason, 418 + + Bradfield, Mrs. C. P., 418 + + Bradley, C. H., 377 + + Brady, Bill, 160 + + Brady, James D., 81 + + Brandy for tropics, 14; S. Calif. --, 200, 238 + + Branding iron, 83, 242 + + _Brasero_, 113 + + Braun, Frederick William, 469, 589, 619, 635, 637, 638 + + Brea, 114, 287, 346 + + Brea _rancho_, la, 37, 114, 287, 407, 645 + + Breakwaters, 426, 618 + + Breckenridge, John C., 282; -- Democrats, 285 + + Breed Block, 192 + + Breer, Louis, 153, 239 + + Bremerman, hotel-keeper, 380 + + Brent, J. Lancaster, 35, 45, 47, 105, 178, 243, 295, 325, + 512; --Street, 47 + + Brentano, Mrs. Arthur, 71 + + Breweries: Gambrinus, 258; Henne, 230, 259; New York, 258; + Philadelphia, 197, 500; brewer at Anaheim, 213 + + Brewster, "Professor," 527 + + Bricks and b. making, 63, 83, 115, 226, 233, 256, 269, 355, + 367, 396; champion b. layer, 550 + + Bridge, Norman, 595, 647 + + Bridger, Jim, 171 + + Bridger, Joe, 421 + + Bridles, 85, 159 + + Brierly, John R., 464 + + Briggs, Mary A., 201, 608 + + Briggs, Samuel, 201, 280 + + Brinckerhoff, John, 107 + + Briswalter, Andrew, 124, 125 + + Broad Acres, McCoy's Addition to, 579 + + Broadway, naming of, 466, 511, 588, 592 + + Broadway Department Store, 613 + + Broaded, John, 471 + + Brock, Alvan D., 574 + + Brode, Charles, 624 + + Brode, Hilda, 624 + + Broderick, David Colbert, 130 + + Brodie, John P., 190 + + Brodrick, W. J., 180, 280, 365, 383, 389, 443, 446, 461, + 462, 483, 489, 562; -- & Reilly, 428 + + Bromberg, Prussia, 3 + + Bromley, Allan, xv + + Broncos, 243 + + Brook, Harry, 646 + + Brookside Vineyard, 281 + + Broom-making, 261 + + Brousseau, Julius, 597 + + Brown, stage-driver, 414, 416 + + Brown, Dave, 46, 139ff. + + Brown, Jason, 530 + + Brown, John of Ossawatomie, 530 + + Brown, Owen, 530 + + Brown, Thomas B., 363, 587, 597 + + Brown, Tom, 363 + + Brown, William M., 444 + + Brown's Restaurant, 279 + + Browne, J. Ross, 333 + + Browning, Elizabeth Barrett, 264 + + Brownstein & Louis, 601 + + Brownstein, Newmark & Louis, 601 + + _Browsings in an Old Book Shop_, 612 + + Brun, murdered peddler, 323 + + Brundige, H. W., 623 + + Brunson, Anson, 517, 520, 521, 586, 593; -- & Eastman, 476; + -- Eastman & Graves, 476; -- & Wells, 517 + + Brunswig Drug Co., 224 + + Brush Electric Lighting Co., 535 + + Bry, Theresa, 225 + + Bryan, William J., 613 + + Bryant, J. S., 455 + + Bryant, Joseph, 320 + + Bryson, John, 538; -- Block, 105, 539, 563 + + Buchanan, James, 163, 214, 219, 231, 239 + + Buckboards, 375, 414 + + Bucket-brigade, 119 + + Buckskin Bill, 424 + + Buddin, Henry, 527 + + Buehner, Valentin, xv + + Buffum, William, 67, 381, 466; -- & Campbell, 416; --'s + Saloon, 405 + + Buggies, spring, 417 + + Buhn, Susan, 229 + + Bulkhead Bill, 269 + + Bull-fights, 161, 182, 282 + + Bulla, Robert N., 540, 647 + + Bullard, Rose, xv + + Bullard Block, 67, 115, 229, 240, 449 + + _Bulletin, The Commercial_, 559 + + _Bulletin_, San Francisco, 284, 285 + + Bullock's Department Store, 382 + + Bumiller Block, 530 + + Bunker Hill, 563, 622; -- tunnel, 622 + + _Buñuelo_, 102 + + Burbank, David, 578 + + Burbank, Luther, 315 + + Burbank, 578, 579 + + Burbank Theater, 170, 578 + + Burdette, Clara B., 588, 647 + + Burdette, Robert J., 588 + + Burdick, Cyrus, 90, 127 + + Burdick, Helen L., 90 + + Burdick, Lucretia, 106 + + Burglaries, 486 + + Burgundy, 398 + + Burials, 307, 406, 409, 430; private --, 494, 520 + + Burke, J. H., 84, 115, 340 + + Burland, Captain, 10ff. + + _Burlington Hawkeye_, 588 + + Burnett, Sir Robert, 445 + + Burnham, R. W., 545, 606, 613, 634 + + Burns, J. F., 67, 106, 208, 209, 339, 381, 395, 405, 420, + 424, 433, 466; Mrs. --, 209 + + Burns, Hôtel de, 413 + + Burns, J. O., xv + + Burns & Buffum, 466 + + Burr-clover, 126 + + Burrill, George Thompson, 56, 57, 171, 190 + + Burrill, S. Thompson, 51, 57 + + Burros, 272, 544, 583 + + Burton, George W., and Mrs., 356, 373; --'s School, 356; + _Burton's Book on California_, 373 + + Busbard & Hamilton, 490 + + Business, center of, 214; -- conditions in the fifties, 129; + --depression, 334, 339; -- district, extension of area, 518, + 570; --methods, 62, 311; -- prosperity, 289; -- + specialization, lack of, 189, 280; --, temporary closing of, + 65, 81; --, trend northward, 511 + + Butler, visit of Benjamin F., 522 + + Butler, George, 217, 389 + + Butler, Sam, 404 + + Butterfield, John, 234, 301; -- & Co., 234; -- routes and + stages, 143, 234, 235, 259, 285, 361, 375 + + Butters, First Mate, 154 + + Butts, William, 133, 447 + + + C + + _Caballero_, 85, 158 + + _Caballos de silla_, 157 + + Cabbage, 125, 272 + + Cable railway, first, 546, 563; Boyle Heights --, 594; + Downey Avenue --, 594; Second Street --, 559, 563, 594; + Temple Street --, 547, 558, 567, 594; -- viaduct, 594; + description of cars, 595 + + _Cachucha_, 135 + + _Cactus_, 126, 463; -- as food, 315 + + Cafeterías, then and now, 133 + + Cahen, Hippolyte, 549, 643; Mrs. --, 549 + + Cahen, Simon, 550 + + Cahen, Sophie, 465 + + Cahn, Nathan, 540 + + Cahuenga, 179, 196 + + Cajón Pass, 228 + + _Calabozos_, 66, 558 + + Caler, Otmar, 212 + + Calhoun, John C., 296 + + Caliente, 496 + + California, 6, 14; -- Constitutional Convention, 47, 48, 49, + 55, 89; admission of --, 22, 93; advertising -- in the East, + 597; -- Governors from the Southland, 109, 269, 378, 540, + 598, 617; -- Legislature, first speaker of, 185; Fourth -- + Infantry, 318; -- soldiers in the Civil War, 294, 295, 300, + 353; -- at the Centennial, 497, 498; unhealthy -- + prosperity, 477; -- fauna, 645; -- fruits, first carload + shipments, 511; _California_, steamer, 346, 465; California + Central Railroad, 581; -- Editorial Association, 525; -- + Fish Co., 628; --Hospital, 473; -- Silk Center Association, + 391; -- State Telegraph Co., 307; University of --, 593; "-- + on Wheels," 482 + + _California of the South_, 589 + + _California: for Health, Pleasure and Residence_, 624 + + _California and the Southern Coast Counties, History of_, + 620 + + _Californian_, 93 + + _Calzoncillos_ and _calzoneras_, 158 + + Camels and camel-express, 222, 234, 297, 281, 316, 418, 543 + + Camino Real, El, 533, 627; -- guide posts, 628 + + Camp Alert, 303; -- Independence, 386; -- Latham, 299 + + Campbell, Alexander, 596 + + Campbell, Malcolm, xv + + Campbell, Thompson, 146 + + Camphine, imported by J. P. Newmark, 34 + + Camping, 429 + + Camp meetings, 195 + + Camulos _rancho_, 40, 98, 347, 511, 531, 583 + + Cañada de Brea, la, 346 + + Canal & Reservoir Co., 372, 450 + + Candidates' announcements, 43, 283 + + Candles, 34, 183; for lighting tunnels, 502 + + Cannibal Islands, 93 + + Cañon Crest Park, 591 + + Canterbury, England, 469 + + _Capitol_, the, 612 + + Capitol Mills and Co., 87, 367 + + Caracole Tower, 648 + + Cárdenas, Anastácio, 372 + + Cárdenas, Ruperto, 372 + + Card-playing, 55, 81, 230 + + Cardwell, H. C., 125 + + Carizosa, Manuel, 549 + + Carleton, James Henry, 296, 299, 315 + + Carlisle, Laura E., 389 + + Carlisle, Robert and Mrs., 168, 197, 347, 348, 389 + + Carnations, 631 + + Carnegie Foundation, 567 + + _Carne seca_, 25 + + Carpenter, Frank J., 209 + + Carpenter, Joseph, 209 + + Carpenter, L., 417 + + Carpenter, Lemuel, 106, 172, 180, 261 + + Carpenters, 81, 203, 213 + + Carr, Charles E., 35, 36 + + Carr, J. E., 600 + + _Carrera_, 160 + + _Carretas_, 68, 83ff., 126, 135, 153, 192, 196, 528 + + Carriages and c. makers, 83ff., 184, 417 + + Carrier-pigeons, 430 + + Carrillo, J. A., 98, 99, 114, 396; Señora -- (_née_ Pico), + 98; + + Carrillo, Joaquín, 56, 57 + + Carrillo, J. J., 255, 510 + + Carrillo, Pedro C. and Mrs., 255 + + Carrillo, Ramón, 326 + + _Carrington_, ship, 121 + + Carroll, Gabe, xv + + Carsley, Bob, 186 + + Carson, George, 174, 196, 217, 421; Mrs. --, 174, 217 + + Carson, J. W., xv + + Carson, Kit, 187 + + Carson, Moses, 187 + + Carson River, 418 + + Carson Station, 217 + + Cartago, 387 + + Carter, Dr., 206 + + Carter, Nathaniel C., 442, 525; -- excursions, 442 + + _Casalinda_, 185 + + _Casamiento_, 136 + + _Cascarones_, 136 + + Cashin, John, 446 + + Cashmere goats, 127, 413 + + Cass, Alonzo B., 469, 484, 625; -- Bros. Stove Co., 484 + + Casson, C., 491 + + Castillo Rapids, 15 + + Castle, Walter M., xv + + Castor-oil mill, 364 + + Castro, José, 178 + + Castruccio Bros., 550; James --, 549, 553 + + Caswell, Samuel B., 358, 441, 443, 449; -- & Ellis, 358; --, + Ellis & Wright, 358 + + Caswell, W. M., 358, 545 + + Catalina (see under Santa Catalina Island) + + _Catalina, Antiquities of_, 558 + + Cathedral of Sancta Vibiana, 490 + + Catholics, Roman, 102, 103, 232 + + Cattle, 90, 95, 110, 160, 215, 263, 302, 332, 334; --, bet + on races, 160; branding of --, 182, 242; --, driven to Utah, + 330; --, effect of drought on, 329; slaughtering of --, 302; + stampeding of --, 182; --, stolen by Indians, 275 + + Cauliflower, 125 + + Cawston, Edwin, 547; -- Ostrich Farm, 547 + + Caystile, Helen, 512 + + Caystile, Thomas, 512 + + Celery, 125 + + Cellars dug in hillsides, 233 + + Cemeteries: Evergreen, 104; at Flower and Figueroa, 104; + Fort Hill, 104, 280; Jewish, 104, 122, 317; Protestant, 103, + 104, 280, 317; Roman Catholic, 103, 317; Rosedale, 104 + + Censorship, Federal, 371 + + Centenary of Los Angeles, 528 + + Centennial Exhibition, 355, 482, 493, 497, 499, 569, 605; -- + parade, Philadelphia, 498; celebration in Los Angeles, 50, + 365, 593 + + Centinela Ranch, 445 + + Central American village life, 16 + + Central Avenue, 378 + + Central Pacific Railroad, 388, 423, 440, 475, 497, 504 + + Central Park, 417 + + _Century Magazine_, 531 + + Cerradel, Manuel, 326 + + Cerritos, los, 166; -- _rancho_, 67, 166, 521 + + Cerro Gordo, 386; -- Freighting Co., 388; -- mines, 385 + + Chaffee, Adna R., 647 + + Chamber of Commerce, first, 425, 449, 450, 482, 489, 498, + 503, 569 + + Chamber of Commerce, present, 334, 569, 589, 622, 634, 647; + --Building, 625 + + _Chamber of Commerce, History of the_, 646 + + Champagne, California, 199 + + Chandler, Harry, 616 + + _Chaparral_, 126 + + Chapels, private, 103 + + Chapin & Co., George W., 313 + + Chapman, Alfred Beck, 46, 52, 335, 351; Mrs. --, 46 + + Chapman, A. B., 516 + + Chapman, J. S., 476, 598 + + Chapman, Joseph, 87 + + Chapman, R. B., xv + + Chapman, R. H., 594, 622 + + _Chapollin_, 232 + + Chapules, Calle de los, 232 + + Chapultepec, 232 + + Charity Street, 232, 355, 535 + + Charity, Sisters of, 189, 203, 210 + + Charles, Henry, 206 + + Charleston Harbor, 352 + + Charter, City, 587 + + Chartres Coffee Factory, 405 + + Chauvin, A. C., 383, 529, 550 + + Chauvin, Laura, 529 + + Chavez, Julian, 64; -- Ravine, 118; -- Street, 64 + + Chavez, Vasquez's aide, 453, 457 + + Chestnut trees, 163 + + Chevalier's Apothecary, 371 + + Chicago, fire at, 431; -- Grand Opera Co., 607; -- World's + Fair, 605 + + Chicken Thief, the, 220 + + Children, Society for Prevention of Cruelty to, 549 + + Children's Hospital, 70 + + Childs, M. W., 77 + + Childs, O. W., 69, 125, 127, 163, 201, 223, 231, 342, 353, + 423, 428, 462, 495, 516, 543, 573; Mrs. -- and the naming of + streets, 201, 231; -- Avenue, 69; -- & Hicks, 69, 223; -- + Grand Opera House, 464, 543, 588, 590 + + Childs, Mrs. O. W., Jr., 606 + + Chile, 332, 389, 542 + + _Chilicothe_, 364 + + Chilis, California, 87 + + Chimneys, 113 + + China, Revolution in, 645 + + Chinatown, 31, 434 + + Chinese, 31, 79, 123ff., 188, 261, 278, 297, 382, 389, 418, + 428, 503; agitation against the --, 504; at the Centennial, + 497; -- feuds, 432; first -- here, 123; -- goods and shops, + 279, 298; -- Government demands indemnity, 435; -- junk, + 427; -- massacre, 423ff.; -- music and festivals, 585; -- + peddlers of vegetables, 514; -- priests and memorial + services, 435; -- trunks, 175; -- women, traffic in, 418, + 432 + + Chino, 598; -- _rancho_, 38, 63, 167, 168, 175, 226, 347, + 598 + + Chlapowski, Charles Bozenta, 494 + + Cholera in Prussia, 4 + + Cholo, Viejo, 277 + + Chop-house restaurants, 513 + + Christian worship in Jewish temple, 618 + + Christians, church of, 610 + + Christmas Eve celebration, 102 + + _Chronik_, Los Angeles, 388 + + _Chronicle_, San Francisco, 455 + + Chuckawalla (Chucky Valley), 414 + + Church festivals, 98 + + Church of Our Lady of Los Angeles, 100 + + Chute's Park, 463 + + Chuzzlewit, Martin, 571 + + Ciénega _rancho_, 357, 375, 460 + + Ciénega ó Paso de la Tijera, 275 + + Cigarettes, 252, 253; --, use by Vasquez, 459 + + Cigars, 253 + + Circuses, 186, 381, 453 + + Citrus fruits, 88; industry threatened by scale, 544 + + City Gardens, 200, 460 + + City Guards, 147 + + City Hall (adobe), 229, 256, 338, 379; (second), 105, 539; + (present), 314, 591, 593 + + City lots, 33, 36, 112, 125, 322, 379, 402, 539 + + City Market, auction of stalls, 258 + + City Marshal, last, 510 + + City officials, salaries of, 302 + + City of Paris store, 452, 540 + + Civic Center proposed, 510 + + Civil War, 47, 236, 289, 299, 305, 311, 323, 325, 330, 334, + 339, 352, 353, 616; -- and aëronautics, 561 + + _Clamor Público, El_, 156, 333 + + Clams, 298 + + Clancy, J. H., xv + + Clanmorris, Lord, 422 + + Clarendon Hotel, 469 + + _Clarissa Perkins_, bark, 107 + + Clark, Alice Taylor, 50 + + Clark, Arthur, 627 + + Clark, Eli P., 612, 647 + + Clark, J. Ross, 599, 644 + + Clark, Thomas B., 483 + + Clark, W., 308 + + Clark, Walter M., 644 + + Clark, William A., 599 + + Clark & Patrick, 559 + + Clark & Sons, Alvan, 567 + + Clarke, George J., 373, 431, 513 + + Classen, C. H., 252, 259 + + Clay, Henry, 93 + + Clayton Vineyard, 200 + + Clemente, vineyardist, 202 + + Cleveland, E. R., 543 + + Cleveland, Grover, 565, 590; Mrs. --, 474 + + Clifford, Pinckney, 139 + + Clifton-by-the-Sea, 632 + + Climate of Southern California, 271, 370, 382, 448; + advertising of, 525, 569, 571 + + Clinton, E. M., 254 + + Clock-tower, 241 + + Clover, Samuel T., 612, 635 + + Clubs, 230, 272, 383, 409, 473, 545, 600, 604, 607, 624 (see + also Turnverein) + + Coal, blacksmith, 345; --, shipped at low rates, 557 + + Coal Creek, 155 + + Coal oil refined without distillation, 346 + + Coast freighting, 331 + + Coast Line Stage Co., 496 + + Coastwise boat service, 246, 366 + + Coates, Foster, 627 + + Coblentz, Joe, 372 + + Cock fights, 161 + + Coffin, Captain, 153 + + Coffin, John E., 634 + + Coffins, 208; use of one as bed, 492 + + Cohn, Albert, 551 + + Cohn, Bernard, 180, 383, 425, 550, 595 + + Cohn, Herman, xv + + Cohn, Isaac, 409 + + Cohn, Kaspare and Mrs., 13, 249, 260, 353, 354, 376, 383, + 414ff., 443, 444, 474, 480, 514, 549, 555, 561, 564, 613; + -- Hospital, 641; Kaspare Cohn & Co., 549 + + Cohn, Max, 451, 549 + + Cohn, Samuel, 13, 196, 353, 375, 444 + + Coins, early American, 247; bits, 162, 279; small coin + despised, 247; importation of foreign, 129, 267 + + Cole, Cornelius, 294 + + Cole, Louis M., 248 + + Cole, Nathan, 530 + + Cole, Nathan, Jr., 533 + + Colegrove, 612 + + Coleman, William T., 55 + + Colling, B. W., 401 + + Collyer, Vincent, 431 + + Colorado River, 38, 227, 228; -- Indians, 317 + + Colorado, proposed State of, 188, 241 + + Colorado Steam Navigation Co., 473 + + Colton, D. D., 303, 504; town of --, 549 + + _Comet_, 250, 290, 307 + + Commerce Court, 637 + + Commercial Bank, 472 + + Commercial Restaurant, 490, 538 + + Commercial Street, 36, 128, 189, 293, 383, 400, 401, 408, + 472, 493, 578; New --, 401, 405 + + Commercial Street wharf, San Francisco, 237 + + Commercial Union Insurance Co., 280 + + Commission merchants, 310, 342, 434, 436 + + Compère, George, 474 + + Compton, G. D., 340, 516; Compton (Comptonville), 263, 340, + 382, 393, 466, 574 + + Comstock Mines, 474, 477 + + Conaty, Thomas J., 626, 648 + + Concord coaches, 417 + + Confederates and the Confederacy, 295, 308, 311, 318, 323, + 325, 337, 338 + + Confidence Engine Co., No. 2, 464, 500 + + Congregational Church, 622 + + Conscription, proposed, 323 + + Consolidated Electric Railway Co., 612 + + Consolidation of Los Angeles with harbor towns, 638 + + _Constantine_, steamer, 346, 465 + + _Contessa d'Amalfi_, 529 + + Continental Railway, 397 + + Continental telegraph, 307 + + Conway, C. R., 306, 315, 341, 350 + + Cooper, Bill, 471 + + Cooper Ornithological Society, 640 + + Copenhagen, 4, 6 + + Copley, Thomas, 233 + + Copp Building, 314 + + Coquillett, D. W., 544 + + Corbitt, William, 244; --, Dibblee & Barker, 170 + + Corn, 366 + + Coronel, António F., 36, 80, 105, 135, 171, 190, 201, 316, + 441, 444, 530, 604, 608; Señora (Mariana, _née_ Williamson) + --, 444, 530, 604, 622; -- chapel, 103; -- home, 444, 530 + + Coronel, Manuel, 36 + + Coronel, Pancho, 426 + + Coronel, Ygnácio, 36, 98, 99, 105, 316; Señora, 105 + + Coronel Collection, 622 + + Coronel Street, 36 + + Coroner sleeps in coffin, 492 + + _Corpus Christi_, 101 + + _Correr el gallo_, 162 + + Corridors, 113 + + Corrugated iron buildings, 120, 190 + + _Cortez_, 19 + + Cortez, Hernando, xii + + Corzina, María, 190 + + Cosmopolitan Hotel, 252, 469, 525 + + Cota, Francisco, 304 + + Cota, María Engracia (later Señora Dominguez), 535 + + Cotton, experiments in cultivating, 317 + + Coues, Elliott, xii + + Coulter, B. F., 450, 510, 511, 610; -- & Harper, 372, 511; + -- Dry Goods Co., 511 + + Coulter, Frank M., 511, 545 + + Council Room, intolerable atmosphere of, 505, 524 + + County Court, 518; -- Judge, first, 518 + + County Medical Society, 423, 473 + + County Treasurer, work and emoluments, 260 + + Court house, -- Temple, 40, 240, 242, 286, 449; --, present, + 301, 452 + + Court of Sessions, first, 176 + + Courtier, "Professor," 318 + + Courtroom, untenantable, 256; -- used for religious + services, 246, 314 + + Courts and court life, 45, 46, 50, 55, 56, 493, 560 + + Coutts, Cave J. and Mrs. -- (_née_ Bandini), 255 + + Covarrúbias, José María, 216 + + Covarrúbias, Nicolás, 592 + + Covent Garden, 360 + + Cowan, William K., 625 + + Cowboy sport, 510 + + Cow counties, 95 + + Cows and chickens, legislation governing, 572 + + _Coyote_, race horse, 262 + + Coyotes, 337, 391 + + Coyotes, Los, 166, 180 + + Crabb, Alexander, 150 + + Crabb, Henry A., 205 + + Crackers, first locally-baked, 77, 288 + + Cracroft, Mrs., 306 + + Craig, Robert L., 600, 619; Mrs. --, 600; -- & Stuart, 600; + -- & Co., R. L., 600 + + Crank, J. F., 585, 594 + + Craw, Alexander, 544 + + Crawford, James S., 390, 446 + + Crawford, Joseph U., 485 + + Crawley, J. M., 606 + + Credit, shaken, 328; -- system, little, 130 + + Creighton, W. W., 495 + + Crematory and cremations, first, 567 + + _Cricket_, steamboat, 326 + + Criminals and crimes, 25, 31, 35, 58, 68, 139, 205, 221, + 223, 304, 323, 324, 326, 327, 330, 333, 394, 418, 419, 424, + 432, 453, 470, 486, 512, 641 + + Crocker, Charles F., 324, 504ff., 524; famous threat to + punish Los Angeles, 506 + + Croft, Thomas H., 448 + + _Cronica, La_, 443 + + Crosby, Mormon Apostle, 345 + + "Crown of the Valley," 448 + + _Crusoe's Island_, 333 + + Cruz, Martin, 217 + + _Cuartel_, 66 + + Cuatro Ojos, 76 + + Cuba, 252, 399, 616 + + Cucamonga, _rancho_, 167, 168; -- vineyard, 265; -- winery, + 239 + + Cudahy Packing Co., 201 + + _Cuisine_, native, 133 + + Cullen's Station, 415 + + Cupping, 297 + + Curley, scout, 261 + + Currency, depreciation of, 311, 319 + + Currier, A. T., 531 + + Curtis, E. A., 125 + + Curzon, Lady, 602 + + Custer Massacre, 261 + + Custer, Mrs. George Armstrong, 597 + + Cuzner, James, 515, 606 + + + D + + Daggett, Frank S., 645 + + Daguerreotype, first one made here, 94 + + Daimwood, Boston, 324 + + Dairies, 289 + + Daley, Charles F., 206 + + Dalton, E. H., 162 + + Dalton, Eliza M., 162 + + Dalton, George, 94, 162, 174 + + Dalton, Henry (Enrique), 87, 90, 120, 162, 174, 179, 190, + 200, 335, 441, 476 + + Dalton, R. H., 372 + + Dalton, Winnall Travelly, 162 + + Dalton Avenue, 162 + + Daly, James, 395; -- & Rodgers, 395 + + Dana, Richard Henry, 135, 197, 226, 227, 255, 296; -- + Street, 227 + + Dancing and dances, 136, 183, 402, 427; licenses for --, 137 + + Daniel, Pancho, 46, 49, 51, 55, 206, 208, 223 + + _Danube_, shipwrecked brig, 238 + + Darlow, Gertrude, xv + + Date Street, 198 + + David, a kind of torpedo, 352 + + Davidson, A., 599 + + Davies, J. Mills, 537, 543 + + Dávila, José María, 549 + + Davis, Charles Cassatt, 626 + + Davis, Charles W., 529 + + Davis, Jefferson, 222, 331, 337 + + Davis, Johanna, 75 + + Davis, M. M., 150 + + Davis, S. C., 75 + + Dawson, Ernest, xv + + Dawson's Book Shop, xv + + Day, Charles E., 587 + + Dead bodies, robbery of, 320 + + Dead Man's Island, 290, 426 + + Dean, hardware dealer, 217 + + Death Valley, 378, 431 + + De Celis, A., 516 + + De Celis, Eulógio F., 251, 443 + + Decoration Day, 621 + + Deen, Louise, xv + + Deighton, Doria, 65 + + De la Guerra, Pablo, 48 + + De la Osa, Vicente, 252 + + Delano, Thomas A., 147 + + Delaval, Henry, 303 + + Del Castillo, Guirado L., 352; Amelia Estrella --, 352 + + De Long, Charles, 143 + + De Longpré, Paul, 617 + + Del Valle, Josefa, 173 + + Del Valle, Lucretia, 103 + + Del Valle, R. F., 98, 103, 469, 511, 517, 628 + + Del Valle, Ygnácio, 40, 41, 98, 99, 102, 103, 173, 190, 251, + 511; --ranch house, 531 + + Deming, J. D., 87; -- Mill, 367 + + _Democratic Press_, 339 + + Democrats, 91, 323, 330, 380 + + Den, Nicholas, 108 + + Den, R. S., 107ff., 371 + + Denmark, 2, 4, 6, 564, 621 + + Dentists, 297, 368; itinerant --, 349, 368, 390 + + Desmond, C. C., 405 + + Desmond, Daniel, 230, 405 + + Desmond, D. J., 405, 634 + + Desmond, William, 155 + + Desert travel, 312, 316, 354 + + Desperadoes, 149, 333 + + De Szigethy, Charles A. H., 649 + + _Deutscher Klub_, 230 + + Devil's Gate, 374 + + De White, Mrs., 493 + + Dewdrop Vineyard, 200 + + Dewey, Samuel, 545 + + _Dexter_, race horse, 423 + + Diaz, Bernal, viii + + Diaz, Porfirio, 542 + + Dibblee, ranchman, 244 + + _Dick Turpin_, 453 + + Dickens, Charles, 253, 590 + + Dickens, Charles, Jr., 590 + + Dillon, Richard, 529; -- & Kenealy, 529 + + Dimitry, George E., xv + + Dimmick, Kimball H., 45, 49, 50 + + Directories, city, 443, 567; first, 410 + + _Directory_, the _Weekly_, 559 + + Disasters, 22, 48, 154, 165, 204, 224, 238, 312, 319, 439, + 536, 644, 647 (see, also, Droughts and Floods) + + District Court of Los Angeles, 518 + + _Dixie_, 301, 338 + + Dobinson, G. A., 625; -- School, 625 + + Dockweiler, Henry, 251 + + Dockweiler, Isidore B., 251, 469 + + Dockweiler, J. H., 251, 606 + + Dodge, George S., 467 + + Dodson, Arthur McKenzie, 78, 193 + + Dodson, James H., 78; -- & Co., 258 + + Dodson, William R., 471 + + Dodsworth, M., 482, 537 + + Dogs, poisoning of, 57 + + Doheny, E. L., 603 + + Dohs, Fred, 412 + + Dol, Victor, 490 + + Dolge, Alfred, 628; Dolgeville, New York and California, 628 + + Dolls, French, 370 + + _Dolores_, 428 + + Domec, Pierre, 344 + + Domestic inconveniences, 335 + + Domestics, 123, 124, 297, 313 + + Domingo, J. A., 238 + + Domingo, Juan, 238 + + Dominguez, Anita, 51 + + Dominguez, Cristóbal, 173 + + Dominguez, Juan José, 173 + + Dominguez, Manuel, 51, 173, 217, 236, 340, 421, 535; Señora + --, 535; -- chapel, 103; -- Field, 639; _rancho_ --, 35, + 214, 217, 244, 246, 340, 639; battle of --, 101 + + Dominguez, Nasário, 78, 173 + + Dominguez, Pedro, 39, 173 + + Dominguez, Reyes, 78 + + Dominguez, Robert, xv + + Dominguez, Victoria, 173 + + Dominguez, Victoria (later Mrs. George Carson), 174, 217 + + Door-plates, 377 + + Doors, how fastened, 113 + + Dorado, El, barroom, Los Angeles, 103; --, barroom, San + Francisco, 22; --, store, 550 + + Dorsey, H. P., 118, 143, 144, 163, 214 + + Dorsey, Kewen H., 145 + + Dorsey, Rebecca Lee, 552 + + Dotter, Charles, 377; -- & Bradley, 378 + + Douglas, Stephen A., 282 + + Douglass, A., 635, 637 + + Dow, E. L., 423 + + Downey, Eleanor, 214 + + Downey, John Gately, 35, 66, 68, 109, 169, 189, 214, 269, + 292, 307, 322, 323, 334, 340, 346, 355, 362, 366, 372, 376, + 388, 399, 423, 426, 432, 434, 440, 441, 442, 443, 445, 449, + 462, 483, 498, 502, 516, 521, 537, 541, 578; Mrs. --, 103, + 498, 537, 549; --, town of, 180, 340, 362, 367; -- Avenue, + 322; -- Block, 66, 70, 343, 372, 390, 406, 443, 545, 593, + 630; -- Bridge, 594 + + Downey, Patrick, 343, 346 + + Downing, P. H., 301 + + Downs & Bent, 426 + + Dozier, Melville, 532 + + Drackenfeld, B. F., 230 + + Drake, J. C., 473 + + Draper, Durell, xv + + Drays, 74, 116, 138, 279, 527 + + Dress, evening, in Los Angeles, 400; native --, 158 + + Dreyfus, Alfred, 451 + + Drinking and drunkenness, 24, 25, 31, 32, 58, 60, 369, 413, + 429, 463 + + Driscoll, Marjorie, xv + + Droughts and their effects, 108, 203, 205, 257, 311, 313, + 328, 329, 331, 333, 334, 391, 445, 507; smallpox, incidental + to --, 322, 329, 508 + + Drown, Ezra, 45, 48, 149, 189, 246, 296; death of Mrs. --, + 48 + + Druggists and drug stores, 109, 185, 371, 461, 589 + + Drum, Richard Coulter, 247; Camp --, 301, 321; -- Barracks, + 247, 299, 301, 321, 331, 358, 398, 451 + + Dryden, William G., 36, 45, 50ff., 56, 118, 210, 282, 354, + 397; Mrs. -- (_née_ Nieto), 51; Mrs. -- (_née_ Dominguez), + 51; -- Springs, 210 + + Duane, C. P., 150 + + Duarte, 174, 578 + + Dubordieu, B., 64, 332 + + Ducks, 279, 490; wild --, Owens Lake, 387 + + Ducommun, Charles L., 68ff., 76, 235, 291, 346, 423; -- + Hardware Co., 69; -- Street, 69 + + Dudley, T. H., 603 + + Duels, 347, 348, 351, 384, 516 + + Dunann, S. D., xv + + Duncan, Father William, 602 + + Dunham, Ed., 396; -- & Schieffelin, 396 + + Dunkelberger, Isaac R., 411, 514, 587, 589; Mrs. --, 411 + + Dunkers, 576 + + Dunlap, Deputy Sheriff, 424 + + Dupuy, J. R., 597 + + Duque, Tomás Lorenzo, 355, 589; Mrs. --, 589 + + Durfee's farm, 471 + + Dutchman, Flying, 351 + + Du Puytren, Pigné, 541 + + Dye, Joseph F., 221, 418 + + Dyer, G. S., 599 + + Dyer, J. J., 349 + + + E + + _Eagle_, ship, 123 + + Eagle Mills, 87, 123 + + Earl, Edwin T., 623, 642 + + Earthquakes, 165, 204, 312, 439, 620, 633ff. + + East Los Angeles, 322, 445, 539, 548; -- Park, 557 + + Eastman, James G., 501, 593 + + Eastman, J., 385 + + Easton, Jim, 335 + + _East Prussia to the Golden Gate, From_, 403 + + _East Side Champion_, 548 + + Eaton, Benjamin S., 45, 50, 66, 316, 336, 448, 561, 614; + Mrs. --(_née_ Hayes), 47, 50; Mrs. -- (_née_ Clark), 50; + --'s Cañon, 337 + + Eaton, Frederick, 50, 66, 90, 106, 446 + + Ebell Club, 607 + + Eberle, F. X., 460, 463; Marsetes --, 460 + + Ebinger, Lewis, 367 + + Echeandia, José María, 604 + + _Echo_, race horse, 423 + + Echo Park, 372 + + Eckbahl, Gottlieb, xv + + Eckert, Bob, 231 + + Edelman, A. M., 314 + + Edelman, Abraham Wolf, 122, 314, 339, 501, 540, 608 + + Edelman, D. W., 314 + + Edgar, George A., 551 + + Edgar, William Francis, 58, 227, 614 + + Edwards, D. K., 382 + + Egan, Richard, xv + + Ehrenberg, 415 + + Eichler, Rudolph, 367 + + Eighth Street, 202 + + Eintracht Society, 272 + + Eisen, T. A., 606 + + Eldridge, Frederick W., 627 + + Elections, 42, 44, 401, 442, 613 + + Electric Homestead Tract, 546; -- Association, 609 + + Electric light, distributed from high masts, 535; objections + to its introduction, 535 + + Electric railways, first, 462, 546, 594, 609, 612, 620 + + Elias, Jacob, 70, 118, 122, 203; -- Bros., 70 + + Elizabeth Lake, 457 + + Elks Hall, 584 + + Ellington, James, 139 + + Elliott, John M., 466, 473, 598, 614 + + Elliott, Thomas Balch, 447, 448; Mrs. --, 448 + + Ellis College, 566 + + Ellis, John F., 358 + + Elm Street Synagogue, New York, organized by Joseph Newmark, + 122 + + El Monte (see under Monte) + + Elsaesser, A., 230 + + Elysian Park, 37, 364, 539, 557, 615 + + Emerson, Ralph, 212, 257 + + Emerson, Ralph Waldo, 257, 519 + + Emerson Row, 257 + + Emery, Grenville C., 622 + + Empire Saloon, San Francisco, 22 + + Empire Stables, 357 + + Employment agency, 138 + + Ems, 564 + + _Enchiladas_, 134 + + Encino, El, 252, 438 + + Episcopalians and Episcopal Church, 246, 339, 340, 356, 361, + 622 + + Equator, celebration of crossing, 121 + + Esperanza store, La, 550 + + Espinosa, bandit, 209 + + Espinosa, Ensign, 169 + + Espionage in Southern California, 299 + + Estates lost through easy credit, 130, 131 + + Encino, El, 252, 438 + + _Estranjero, El_, 605 + + _Estrella de los Angeles, La_, 92, 93 + + Estudillo, Dolores, 255 + + Estudillo, José G., 521, 587 + + Estudillo, José, 255 + + Etchemendy, Juan, 311 + + Eucalyptus trees, 439; notable tree blown down, 439 + + Euclid Avenue, 579 + + Eugénie, Empress, 360 + + Europe, travel to, 165 + + Evans, Charley, 205 + + Everhardt, Joseph, 251, 274, 275; -- Mrs., 442; -- & Koll, + 251 + + Evertsen, Laura Cecilia, 89, 315 + + Ewington, Alfred, xv + + _Examiner_, Los Angeles, 626, 636; -- Building, 627; --, San + Francisco, 627 + + Excursions, 250, 393, 394, 404, 442, 488, 525; dependent on + subscriptions, 430; -- and fares, 430 + + Exposition Park, 640, 645 + + _Express, Evening_, and _Los Angeles_, 427, 441, 498, 516, + 526, 538, 543, 612, 623, 642, 646 + + Express business, 138, 373 + + Express, Pony (see Pony Express) + + Ey, Frank, 628 + + Eytinge, Rose, 498 + + + F + + Fabian, 527 + + Fair Grounds, 375 + + Fair Oaks, 316, 337; -- Avenue, 316 + + Fairs, public, 512 + + Faith Street, 232 + + _Faja_, 542 + + _Falcon_, steamer, 568 + + Falkenstein, Germany, 451 + + Fall, George M., 405 + + Families, large, 178, 202 + + _Fandangos_, 135, 136, 453 + + _Fandangueros_, 135 + + Fares, excursion, 430; --, steamer, 71, 568; --, railroad, + 404 + + Farish, O. E., 638 + + Farmers, 126, 354, 363, 393 (see, also, under Ranchers) + + Farmers & Merchants Bank, 63, 70, 404, 423, 465, 467, 476, + 478, 481, 565 + + Farragut, David Glasgow, 328, 350 + + Farrelly, R. A., 627 + + Fashion Stables, 499 + + Faulkner, Charles J., 287 + + Faulkner, William, 280 + + Fayal, 404, 405 + + Federal Building, 67, 444, 604, 630 + + Federal Government and Secession, 318, 321, 330, 339 + + Federal Telegraph Co., 643 + + Feliz, Reymunda, 238 + + Fences scarce on ranches, 182 + + Ferguson, William, 377 + + Ferner & Kraushaar, 61 + + Ferrell, William C., 53 + + Ferris, Dick, 639 + + Fiddle used at funerals, 307 + + Field, Stephen J., 565 + + Field, Leiter & Co., 602 + + _Fiestas de los Angeles_, 605ff. + + Figueroa Street, 104, 125, 232, 380, 450, 548 + + Fillmore City, 155 + + Fine Arts League, 640 + + Finger-bowls, first here, 377 + + Finland, 5 + + Finlayson, Frank G., 628 + + Fires, fire-fighting, and fire companies, 119, 120, 223, + 225, 229, 257, 275, 288, 356, 362, 405, 446, 464, 489, 500, + 539, 565, 566, 568, 586, 593, 633, 640; first engine, 446; + first protection, 120; hand-cart, 119; ordinances, 286; + racing to fires, 464; San Francisco, 633ff.; volunteer + firemen, 446, 464, 539 + + Fire insurance companies: Phoenix and New England, 280 + + Firearms, free use of, 59, 60 + + Fire-proof buildings, first, 120, 190 + + Fireworks, 594 + + Firmin, Point, 581 + + First Dragoons' Band, 296 + + First National Bank, 472, 515 + + First Street, 62, 112, 408, 417, 518, 543, 570 + + Fischer, John, 212 + + Fischer, G., 261 + + Fish and fish trade, 127, 278 + + Fish, Captain, 152 + + Fiske, John, xii + + Fitch, Tom, 479, 580 + + Fitzgerald, Edward Harold, 190, 262 + + Five Brothers, the, 550 + + Five Points, New York, 12 + + Flag presentation, early, 296 + + Flashner, Marcus, 245; -- & Hammel, 245 + + Flat Iron Square, 627 + + Flatau, Herman, 344, 535, 538 + + Flax, experiments with, 401 + + Fleishman, Israel, 72, 256 + + Fleming, A. P., 638 + + Fleming, David P., xv + + Fletcher, Calvin, 447 + + Flint, Bixby & Co., 170 + + Flint, Frank Putnam, 630 + + Flint, Motley H., 631 + + Floods, 257, 258, 309, 313, 362, 365, 412, 541, 551 + + Floors, earthen, 113 + + Florence, 388 + + Flores, José María, 178, 182 + + Flores, Juan, 47, 206, 208, 210 + + Flores, Las, 173, 180, 332, 442 + + Flour, 322, 331; -- mills, 493 + + Flowers, festivals of, 512; painter of --, 617; -- strewn on + waters, 621 + + Flower Street, 232, 472 + + Floyd, pavement layer, 519 + + Fluhr, Chris, 176, 251, 252; -- & Gerson, 469 + + Flying horses, 193 + + Fogarty, J. J., 634 + + Foley, W. I., 617 + + Follansbee, Elizabeth A., 536 + + Fonck, Victor, 512 + + Foodstuffs, affected by heat, 88, 287; prices, 331, 332; + supply, 88; variety, 124 + + Foot-bridges, 289, 412 + + Forbes, A. S. C., 628; Mrs. --, 621, 628 + + Forbes, Charles Henry, 214 + + Forest of Arden, 494 + + Forest Grove Association, 439 + + Forman, Charles, 172, 477, 573 + + Forster, Francisco (Chico), 526 + + Forster, Juan, 98, 173, 326, 332, 526, 531; Doña -- (_née_ + Pico), 98, 173, 531 + + Fort Hill, 104, 209, 280, 417 + + Fort Pillow Massacre, 330 + + Fort Street, 400, 408, 417, 466, 472, 561; called Broadway, + 511, 592; property values on, 67, 332, 381; prophecy as to, + 466; widening of, 588 + + Fort Tejón, 194, 195, 207, 234 + + Fort Yuma, 424 + + Forthman, J. A., 470 + + Forwarding, 23, 74, 236, 242, 272, 274, 312, 342, 343, 351, + 373; toll for, 345 (see Camel-express) + + Foshay, James A., 606, 625 + + Fossils, excavation of, at La Brea _rancho_, 645 + + Foster, F., 239 + + Foster, Stephen C., 30, 35, 49, 105, 120, 139, 140, 147, + 200, 263, 500; Mrs. --, 263 + + Foster, Thomas, 107, 108, 118, 156, 189, 203, 246, 312, 321; + Mrs. --, 107 + + Foster, Timothy, 118 + + Foster & McDougal, 76 + + Foster Vineyard, 200, 201 + + Foundry, Stearns, 186, 226 + + Fountains, 418; presentation to city, 534 + + Four-story structure, first, 534 + + Fourth of July celebrations, 47, 157, 193, 273, 300, 321, + 330, 428, 429, 499 + + Fowler, James G., xv + + Fox, ostrich handler, 547 + + Foy Bros., 110 + + Foy, James C., 110 + + Foy, James Calvert, 111 + + Foy, John M., 110, 111 + + Foy, Mary E., 111, 647 + + Foy, Samuel C., 110, 111, 205, 256, 500, 624; Mrs. --, 92, + 106, 205, 224 + + Frame buildings, first on Fort Street, 466; -- of the + seventies, 518 + + France, 564, 621 + + Francisco, A. W., 606 + + Francisco, the vender, 629 + + Francis, John F., 174, 606, 613, 622 + + Frank, H. W., 216, 606 + + Franklin, John, 306; supposed records of, 395 + + Franklin, Lady, visit to Los Angeles, 306, 395 + + Franklin Alley, 36, 40 + + Franklin Street, 36, 334, 408 + + Fraser, A. R., 603 + + _Frazadas_, 29 + + Fredericks, John D., 641 + + Fredericks, Katherine, 378 + + _Free Harbor Contest_, 646 + + Free, Micky, 413 + + Free lunches, 303, 402, 571 + + Freeman, Dan, 421, 445, 510, 606 + + Freight: dissatisfaction with rates, 504, 506; high rates, + 290, 404; shipment of --, 153 + + Freighting along the coast, 345, 435; -- by teams, 290, 416 + + Frémont, Elizabeth Benton, 625, 647 + + Frémont, J. C., 61, 99, 156, 171, 173, 178, 272, 297, 514, + 597, 612, 648; -- Trail, 448 + + Frémont, Jessie Benton, 606, 625; carriage of, 86; gift of + residence to, and death of, 625 + + French, E. C., 483 + + French, L. W., 368 + + French, T. B., 121 + + French Benevolent Society, 303, 338, 402, 500 + + French bread, 77 + + French Consul, 254 + + French Hospital, 402 + + French language, 341, 450, 528 + + Frenchmen, 199, 207 + + French newspapers, 516, 541 + + French Restaurant, 279 + + Friday Morning Club, 600 + + Friedlander, Isaac, 331 + + _Frijoles_, 134 + + Frink, E. B., 405; --'s Ranch, 414 + + Fröhling, John, 117, 212, 213, 294 + + Frosts, 212, 525 + + Fruit, sent to the President, 219; peddler of, 126; -- + grafts, first from New York, 33; -- trees imported from the + East, 139 + + Fuentes, José María, 549 + + Fullerton, 577 + + Fulton, J. E., 483; -- Wells, 483 + + Funeral customs, 306, 307 + + Furman, George, 464 + + Furniture, 81, 377 + + Furrey, W. C., 69, 605 + + Fussell, Effie Josephine, xv + + + G + + Gadsden Purchase, 222 + + Gaffey, John T. and Mrs., 631 + + Gage, H. R., 603 + + Gage, Henry T., 168, 617; Mrs. -- (_née_ Rains), 617 + + Galatin, 362, 367, 425 + + Gale, Anita, 170 + + Gallagher, James, 462 + + Gallardo, Francisca, 100 + + Galta, P., 191 + + Gamblers and gambling, 29ff., 149, 510; property lost + through --, 131; -- at San Francisco, 21, 29 + + Gamut Club, 625 + + Ganahl, Frank J., 416, 488 + + Ganée, P., 516 + + Garage, first, 626 + + Garcia, Francisca, 95 + + Garcia, Joseph S., 65, 237, 239; Mrs. --, 239 + + Garcia, Manuel, 206 + + Garcia, Merced, 186 + + Garcia, Ygnácio, 66, 67, 335 + + Gard, George E., 464, 529, 552, 579 + + Garden of Paradise, 192, 272, 273, 523 + + Garden Grove, 177 + + Gardens, few, 54, 69, 114, 124, 147, 163, 192; outdoor --, + 273, 275, 340, 410, 463, 500 + + Gardiner, James, 530 + + Garey, Thomas A., 91, 483 + + Garfias, Manuel, 36, 178, 237, 238 + + Garfield, James A., memorial services here, 529; Mrs. --, + resident, 529 + + Garland, W. M., 606, 639 + + Garnier Bros., 421, 438; --, Camille, Eugène, Philip, 438 + + Garra, António, 50, 168, 169 + + Garter, Mexican, 158 + + Garvanza, 578 + + Garvey, Richard, 282 + + Gas, 267, 349, 355, 370, 396, 561, 604; -- fixtures, 355; -- + Co., 349, 561; -- rates, 489 + + Gasoline stoves, 516 + + Gates Hotel, 566 + + Gattel, Bernhard, 319 + + Gaviota Pass, 246 + + Gefle, 4 + + Gelcich, V., 110, 428, 548 + + Geller, William, 74 + + George the Baker, 65 + + Georgetown, 193 + + Gephard, George, 532 + + Gerkins, J. F., 510 + + Germain, Eugène, 510, 537, 581 + + German bankers and statesmen, visit of, 539 + + German Benevolent Society, 272; -- of ladies, 527 + + German bread, 77 + + German hotels and highways, 564 + + German language, demand for teaching the, 383 + + German music, 213, 214, 259, 272, 409, 584; -- newspapers, + 388, 465, 584; first German newspaper here, 465; -- school, + first, 428 + + Germania Life Insurance Co., 319 + + Germans and Germany, 207, 212, 272, 378, 453, 564, 621; + German-born American citizens, 239; travel in Germany in + 1849, 3 + + Gerson, Charles, 251, 469 + + Getman, William C. (Billy), 31, 208, 220, 221 + + Gibbon, Thomas Edward, 595, 606, 642 + + Gibbons, James, 586 + + Gibson, A. P., xv + + Gibson, C. W., 470, 537 + + Gibson, Fielding W., 90, 261 + + Gibson, Frank A., 545, 598, 613 + + Gieze, F. J., 291 + + Gift, George W., 294 + + Gila River, 38, 188, 261; --, passage by emigrants, 188 + + Gilbert & Co., 155 + + Gilchrist, Ira, 81 + + Gillette, J. W., 614 + + Gilman's, 414 + + Gilroy, 234, 497 + + Ginnochio, G., 549 + + Gird, Richard, 599 + + Giroux, L. G., 480 + + Gitchell, Joseph R., 45, 54, 246 + + Glaciers, 398, 602 + + Gladstone, William Ewart, 579; --, proposed town of, 579, + 593 + + _Gladstone_, race horse, 593 + + Glasscock, J. Sherman, xv + + Glassell, Andrew, 363 + + Glassell, Andrew J., 350, 352, 363, 423, 488, 517; -- & + Chapman, 352; --, Chapman & Smith, 351; --, Smith & Patton, + 363 + + Glassell, Wm. T., 352 + + Glendale, 177, 424, 578, 579 + + Glendora, 576, 578, 579 + + Goats, Angora, 413; --, Cashmere, 413; --, wild, 216 + + Godey, Alexander, 272; --'s ranch, 272 + + Godfrey, John F., 499, 556 + + Gold, 39, 94, 95, 142, 247, 268, 321, 333, 380, 402, 476; + appreciation of --, 319; -- bars, 415; -- dust, 95, 96, 130, + 242; found in ruins, 223; -- mining, 148, 149, 201, 228; --, + searching for, 254, 313, 318, 386; -- notes, 319; -- nugget, + 39, 40; -- and the San Francisco Clearing House, 95 + + Gold Hill, Nevada, 477 + + Golden Gate, 17, 19, 121, 123, 204, 211, 283, 635 + + _Golden State_, steamer, 306 + + _Gold Hunter_, steamer, 22, 152 + + Goldwater, Joe and Mike, 321 + + _Goliah_, 22, 143, 152, 153, 311 + + Goller, John, 28, 65, 82, 85, 121, 149, 153, 239, 300, 384, + 417, 433 + + _Gondolier_, 307 + + Gonzales, Juan, 140 + + Gonzales & Co., José E., 308 + + Goodall, Nelson & Perkins, Goodall, Nelson & Co., 465 + + Goodman, Morris L., 150, 213 + + Goodwin, L. C., 70, 150, 500; Mrs. --, 70 + + Goodwin, Pat, 357 + + Gordo, Louis, 369, 370 + + Gordon, John W., 362 + + Gordon, Captain, 483 + + Gordon's Station, 195 + + Gospel Swamp, 366 + + Gothenburg, 4, 6, 7, 8, 9 + + Gould, Will D., 597 + + Government, messenger to New Mexico, 282; -- stores, + transportation of, 354 + + Graff, M. L., 597 + + Grand Army of the Republic, 579 + + Grand Avenue, 232 + + Grand Central Hotel, 469, 492 + + Grand Hotel, San Francisco, 430, 440 + + Grand Opera House, 590 + + Grand Rabbi of France, 450 + + Grand, S., 382 + + Grange stores, 483 + + Granger, Lewis, 33, 36, 45, 53, 105 + + Granite Wash, 414, 415 + + Grant, U. S., 255, 328, 446, 500 + + Grapes, 25, 103, 139, 142, 199, 265, 285, 412, 576; --, + first sent east, 139; vines grown in dry soil, 337 + + _Graphic_, 612 + + Grasshoppers, 266 + + Grasshopper Street, 232 + + Graves, J. A., 69, 475; --, O'Melveny & Shankland, 476 + + Gray, Charlotte, 91 + + Gray, F. Edward, 634 + + Gray, William H., 432 + + _Greasers_, 140 + + Great Salt Lake, 302 + + Greek George, 223, 234, 281, 455, 457, 543 + + Greenbacks, 319, 380, 522 + + Greenbaum, E., 72; Mrs. --, mother of first Jewish child + born here, 104 + + Green Meadows, 40 + + Greenwich Avenue School catastrophe, New York, 224 + + Greene, Bessie Anne, 142 + + Gregory, John H., 405 + + Gregson, F. P., 619, 637 + + Greppin, E. H., 637 + + Grey Town, 14 + + Grierson, B. H., 587 + + Griffin, George Butler, 526 + + Griffin, John S., 47, 106, 107, 108, 193, 200, 205, 207, + 237, 241, 252, 294, 316, 320, 322, 337, 346, 365, 371, 412, + 423, 426, 445, 448, 449, 500, 594, 614, 617, 618, 648; Mrs. + --, 47, 205, 316; -- Avenue, 322 + + Griffith, Alice H., 476 + + Griffith, Fred, 546 + + Griffith, Griffith J., 541, 614, 643; -- Park, 614, 643 + + Griffith, J. M., 190, 290, 340, 356, 428, 441, 449, 466, + 476, 546, 614, 636; -- Avenue, 636; -- Lynch & Co., 466 + + Griffith, J. T., 606 + + _Gringos_, 159, 160, 305, 453 + + Groningen, Johann, 238 + + Grosse Building, 627 + + Grosser, Elsa, 624 + + Grosser, William F., 623 + + Grosser Tract, 623 + + Grosvenor, Gilbert H., xv + + Guadalupe, 496 + + Guatemala, 542 + + Guerra, Pablo de la, 35, 48 + + Guerra, Trinidad de la, 336 + + Guillen, Eulalia Perez, 493 + + Guillen, Mariana, 493 + + Guinn, James Miller, 402, 419, 526, 533, 541, 614, 620, 626 + + Guiol, Frederico, 369 + + Guirado, Bernardino, 549 + + Guirado, F. L., 35 + + Guirado, Francisco, 499 + + Gunsmiths, 147, 230 + + Gurley, H. B., 634 + + Gwin, William McKendree, 296 + + Gymnasiums, Turnverein, 192, 409, 584, 629; 273; petition + for a --, 383, 545 + + + H + + Haap, Mary, 213 + + Haas, Abraham, 230, 425, 537; --, Baruch & Co., 367, 425, + 595 + + Haas, Jacob, 425 + + Habra, la, 166, 179, 547 + + _Hacienda_, 168 + + Hacks, 306, 389, 417 + + Hafen, Conrad, 378; --, Hafen House, 378 + + Haight, Fletcher M., 279 + + Haight, H. H., 279 + + Hail, 314 + + Haiwee Meadows, 387 + + Hale, Charles, 77 + + Haley, Robert, 285, 311 + + Haley, Salisbury, 22, 152, 181, 204, 311; Mrs. --, 181 + + Halfhill, Albert P., 628 + + Half-Way House, 25 + + Hall, Charles Francis, 395 + + Hall, E. A., 568 + + Hall, Hiland, 146 + + Hall, John, 527 + + Halle University, Germany, viii + + Halsey, Dr., 211, 212 + + Halstead, Willard G., 386 + + Hamburg-Bremen Fire Insurance Co., 120 + + Hamburger, Asher, 529; -- & Sons, A., 529; -- Building, 593, + 639 + + Hamburger, D. A., 529, 639 + + Hamburger, M. A., 529, 626 + + Hamburger, S. A., 529 + + Hamilton, Harley, 606 + + Hamilton, Henry, 192, 280, 371, 413, 446 + + Hamilton, Maggie, 355 + + Hamlin, Homer, 638 + + Hammel, Henry, 259, 316, 380; -- & Denker, 469, 581 + + Hammel, William A., 115 + + Hammel, William A., Jr., 115, 634 + + Hammond, Miss L. J., milliner, 491 + + Hampton, W. E., 637 + + _Hancock, Ada_, disaster, 75, 132, 300, 329 + + Hancock, George Allan, 37 + + Hancock, Henry, 34, 36, 37, 104, 112, 149, 500; Mrs. --, 18, + 37; --'s surveys, 33, 38; -- ranch, 114 + + Hancock, Winfield Scott, 82, 246, 247, 265, 281, 282, 294, + 296, 297, 299, 300, 301, 346, 512; Mrs. --, 300 (see under + _Hancock, Ada_) + + Hangtown, 428 + + Hanlon, John, 591 + + Hanna, D. W., 566 + + Hansen, George, 34, 37, 38, 212, 372, 411, 423, 450, 614 + + Haparanda, 4, 5 + + Haraszthy, Augustin, 37 + + _Harbor Contest, The Free_, 646 + + Hardison, Wallace R., 622 + + Hardy, Alfred, 206, 207 + + Hardy, surveyor, 34 + + Hard times, 256, 333 + + Harford, Port, 346 + + Harmon, J., 371 + + Harned, J. M., 429 + + Harper, Arthur C., 372 + + Harper, Charles F., 371; -- & Moore, --, Reynolds & Co., + Harper-Reynolds Co., -- & Coulter, 372 + + Harper's Ferry, 530 + + _Harper's Magazine_, 547, 597; -- _Weekly_, 590 + + Harris, Emil, 405, 409, 425, 433, 434, 455ff. + + Harris, L., 18, 216 + + Harrison, William Henry, 93, 519 + + Harrison, Miss, 225 + + Hart, F. J., 638 + + Hart, Mary E., 599 + + Harte, Bret, 32, 428 + + Hartley, B. F., 455 + + Hartman, Isaac and Mrs., 54 + + Hartshorn Tract, 391 + + Hartung Edgar J., xv + + Harvard School, 622 + + Harvey, J. Downey, 214 + + Harvey, T. J., 269 + + Harvey, Walter Harris and Mrs., 214 + + Haskell, Leonidas, 272 + + Hathaway, C. D., 405 + + Hathwell, Belle Cameron (later Mrs. C. E. Thom), 52 + + Hathwell, Susan Henrietta (later Mrs. C. E. Thom), 52 + + Hat-makers, native, 159 + + Hatter, first, 230, 405; 213 + + Havilah, 148, 149, 375 + + Hawkes, Emma L., 355 + + Hawthorne, H. W., 404 + + Hay, high price of, 445, 453 + + Hayes, Benjamin, 35, 45, 46, 48, 139, 189, 256, 501, 596; + Mrs. --, 46 + + Hayes, Chauncey, xv + + Hayes, Helena (later, Mrs. B. S. Eaton), 47, 50 + + Hayes, Louisa (later, Mrs. J. S. Griffin), 47, 106, 107 + + Hayes, Rutherford B., 522, 596 + + Hayes, R. T., 107, 143, 156, 320, 423 + + Hayes. T. A., 91 + + Haynes, John R., 473, 649 + + Hay-scale, public, 288 + + Hayward, A. B., 107, 291 + + Hayward, James Alvinza, 372; -- & Co., 372 + + Hayward Hotel, 192 + + Hazard, A. M., 74 + + Hazard, Dan, 74, 415, 416 + + Hazard, George W., 74, 258 + + Hazard, Henry T., 74, 235, 415, 433, 442, 446, 521, 584, + 590, 594, 606; Mrs. --, 74; --'s Pavilion, 512, 590, 592; -- + Street, 75 + + Healdsburg, 389 + + Healey, Charles T., 618 + + Hearst, William Randolph, 626, 643 + + Heat, excessive, 257 + + Heath, Samuel M., 91, 92 + + Hebrew Benevolent Society, 122, 432; --, Ladies', 409 + + Hecht, Sigmund, 618 + + Heinsch, Hermann, 213, 214, 230, 259, 272, 383; Mrs. --, + 213; --Building, 214 + + Heinsch, R. C., 214 + + Heintzelman, Henry, 35 + + Heinzeman, C. F., 230, 371 + + Hellman, H. M., 142, 311 + + Hellman, Herman W., 53, 142, 248, 383, 425, 449, 608; --, + Haas & Co., 425, 500, 506, 595; -- Building, 53 + + Hellman, I. M., 142, 248, 311, 409, 423, 480; -- & Bro., + 309, 311, 462, 478, 480, 539 + + Hellman, I. W., 53, 63, 70, 191, 248, 311, 346, 366, 372, + 383, 423, 516, 555, 560, 562, 595; -- Building No. 1, 383; + -- Temple & Co., 372, 416, 423; -- & Co., 417 + + Hellman, James W., 69 + + Hellman, Marco H., 248 + + Hellman, Maurice S., 143 + + Hellman, Samuel, 142, 311, 365, 428, 605; -- & Widney, 311 + + Henderson, A. J., 304 + + Henderson Bros., 416 + + Henderson, John W., 304 + + Henne, Christian, 230, 259, 334; -- Block, 192 + + Henrickson, Clois F., 401 + + Henriot, François and Mme., 225 + + _Henry_ steamer, _Chancey_, 359 + + Henseley, Captain, 62 + + _Herald_, Los Angeles, 450, 498, 516, 556, 595, 607, 612, + 614, 622, 628, 643, 646 + + _Herald_, New York, 234 + + Hereford, M., 320 + + Hereford, Margaret S., 169 + + Hereford, Robert S., 150 + + Hereford, Thomas S., 169 + + Herodotus, xii + + Hester, R. A., 324 + + Hewitt, Eldridge Edwards, 321, 404, 489, 506 + + Hewitt, J., 389, 397 + + Hewitt, Leslie R., 638 + + _Hermosa_, steamer, 15 + + Hernösand, 4 + + Hickey, William (Bill, the Waterman), 116, 117, 350 + + Hicks, J. D., 69, 142, 217; -- & Co., 69, 142 + + Hides and hide-business, 196, 197, 257, 331, 408, 613; + shipping hides, 197 + + Higbee, George H., xv + + High, E. Wilson, 150 + + High School, Los Angeles, 301, 419, 452, 532 + + Hill-property, 376, 460, 558 + + Hill Street, 377, 472 + + Hinchman, A. F., 66, 67, 241, 313 + + Historical Society of Southern California, 541, 604, 631, + 640; open air meeting of, 604 + + Hodge, Frederick Webb, xii + + Hodges, A. P., 107 + + Holbrook, J. F., 377 + + Holcomb, William, 268; -- Valley and -- Mines, 268, 282 + + Holder, Charles Frederick, 557 + + Hollenbeck, John Edward, 357, 461, 473, 492; Mrs. --, 598; + -- Home, 220, 494, 598; -- Hotel, 492, 518, 598; -- Park, + 598 + + Hollingsworth, H. T., 449 + + Hollingsworth, Lawson D. and Mrs., 449 + + Hollister, John H., 368, 410, 543 + + Hollister, Mary, 368, 410 + + Hollywood, 455, 563, 612, 617 + + Hollywood, Mount, 643 + + Holmes, James, 401 + + Holmes, Oliver Wendell, 519 + + Home of Peace Society, 104, 599 + + Home Telephone and Telegraph Co., 484 + + Homes, furnishing of, 113, 124 + + Honolulu, 156; --, wireless telegraphing to, 643 + + _Honeymoon, The_, 286 + + Hook, Thomas J., 609 + + Hook, William Spencer, 609 + + Hoover (formerly Huber), Leonce, 185, 199, 200, 201; -- + Street, 201; -- Vineyard, 198 + + Hoover, Mary A., 201 + + Hoover, Vincent A., 200, 201, 467 + + Hope, A. W., 35, 99, 107, 109 + + Hope Street, 232, 472 + + Hopkins, Mark, 324 + + Hopper, Joseph, xv + + Horn, A. J., 91 + + Horn, Cape, 37, 62, 86, 107, 121, 123, 167, 203, 221, 284, + 352, 397, 411 + + Hornbeck, Robert, 176 + + Hornung, Adelbert, xv + + Horses, 243, 318, 332, 354; --, bet on races, 160; --, + breaking in, 243; --, breeding of, 95, 215, 423, 592; --, + effect of drought on, 215, 329; horse-thieving, 326; runaway + --, 243 + + Horse cars, 460ff., 562, 609 + + Horsemanship, 242, 243 + + Horse-racing, 109, 160, 182, 375 + + Horticultural Hall, 512 + + Hospitality, 113, 135; --, Spanish-American, 71, 150, 252, + 604; -- of the City, 341, 398 + + Hospitals, 210, 250 + + Hotels and hotel life, 227, 245, 369, 380, 396, 397, 408, + 481; --, advertising, 469; lack of, during Boom, 581; under + surveillance, 299; Hotel Splendid, 581. (_See, also_, under + Alexandria, Angelus, Bella Union, Bellevue Terrace, Belmont, + Cosmopolitan, Hollenbeck, Lafayette, Lanfranco, Lankershim, + Nadeau, National, New Arlington, Pico, St. Charles, St. + Elmo, United States, What Cheer House, etc.) + + Hotz, Walter, xvi + + Hough, A. M., 515 + + Houghton, Sherman Otis, 596; --, Silent & Campbell, 596 + + House, building, 82; --, furnishing, 82; --, moving of, 477; + --, three-story, 372 + + Howard, Charles, 384 + + Howard, Fred H., 439; -- & Smith, 439 + + Howard, Frederick Preston and Mrs., 201, 461 + + Howard, James G., 347, 350, 554, 555 + + Howard, O. O., 431 + + Howard, Volney E., 54, 55, 346, 356, 384, 529, 593; Mrs. --, + 55; --, Butterworth & Newmark, 312 + + Howard, William D. M., 227; -- & Mellus, 227 + + Howard-Nichols duel, 384 + + Howe, F. A., xvi + + Howell, R. H., 600, 606; -- & Craig, 600 + + Howland, F. H., 535, 546 + + Hoyt, Albert H., 106 + + Hoyt, Gertrude Lawrence, 92, 106, 107, 258 + + Hoyt, Mary, 107, 257, 321 + + Hubbell, S. C., 461, 521 + + Huber, Caroline, 201 + + Huber, Edward, 201 + + Huber, Emeline, 201 + + Huber, Joseph, 200, 201; Mrs. --, 201 + + Huber, Joseph, 201, 261 + + Huber, William, 201 + + Hudson River, 625 + + Hughes, Captain, 237, 276 + + Hughes, saloon-keeper, 103 + + Hughes, W. E., 589 + + Hughes, steam-bath proprietor, 371 + + Hull, England, 7, 8, 10 + + Human life, disregard for, 31 + + Humber Docks, 8 + + Humbert, Augustus, 130 + + Humphreys, Frank, 601 + + Humphreys, J. F., 589 + + Hunsaker, W. J., 469 + + Hunsicker, John G., 559 + + Hunt, Sumner P., 606 + + Hunt, W. S., 619 + + Hunter, Edward, 35 + + Hunter, Jesse, 115, 340 + + Hunter, Morton C., 397 + + Hunting grounds, 73 + + Huntington, Collis P., 324, 440, 468, 502 + + Huntington, Henry E., 232, 515, 620, 631, 632; -- Building, + 515, 620; -- Purchase, 69; -- Hotel, 54 + + Hutton, Aurelius W., 597 + + Hydrophobia, 325 + + Hyde, E. W., 440 + + Hydrants, 446 + + + I + + Ice, 233, 247, 370; first --, 191; formed here, 381; -- + house, 247, 370; -- machine, first, 427; -- wagon, 370 + + Ice cream, first, 191, 391; venders, 391, 629 + + Ice Water Convention, 13 + + _Icerya purchasi_, 544 + + Icicles, 525 + + Idaho, 351 + + Ide, Clarence Edward, xvi + + Ihmsen, Maximilian F., 627 + + Illich, Jerry, 513 + + Illinois, 576 + + _Illinois_, steamer, 14 + + _Imprenta_, 94 + + _Independence_, steamer, 48 + + Indian Wells, 387, 414 + + Indiana, 576; --, Colony, 412, 447, 481 + + Indians, 25, 35, 42, 47, 62, 82, 89, 95, 105, 106, 123, 124, + 126, 131, 134, 165, 169, 182, 202, 203, 217, 218, 227, 228, + 248, 253, 259, 261, 262, 266, 275, 277, 281, 285, 286, 317, + 322, 330, 352, 415, 429, 430, 431, 448, 519, 528, 530, 542, + 553, 604; Polonia, 253; -- agents, 143, 168; --, dances of, + 278; fire signals, 415; Apache --, 431, 541; Chippewa --, + 448; Colorado River --, 317; pueblo --, 542; -- as illegal + voters, 43; -- reservation and adobes, 248, 620 + + Ingersoll, Luther, xvi + + Institute, Sisters', 190 + + Institute, Teachers', 389 + + Insurance, 120, 223, 389, 516 + + Interstate Commerce Commission, 637 + + Inyo County, 386, 521 + + Iowa, 576 + + Iron buildings, corrugated, 120, 133, 190 + + _Ironsides_, 352 + + Irrigation, 115, 213, 215, 218, 329 + + Irving party, 46, 175, 190 + + Irving, Washington, 65 + + Isthmuses, the, and Isthmian travel, 15, 38, 48, 201, 232, + 315 + + Italian Benevolent Society, 553 + + Ivanhoe, 579 + + + J + + Jackson, Andrew, 254 + + Jackson, Helen Hunt (_H. H._), 41, 102, 444, 519, 530 + + Jackson, John E., 404 + + Jackson, R. W., 261 + + Jackson, Simon, 150 + + Jackson Street, 293 + + Jackstones, 103 + + Jacobi, A., 28 + + Jacobs, Lewis, 151 + + Jacoby, Abraham, 287, 606; -- Bros., 287 + + Jacoby, Charles, 287 + + Jacoby, Conrad, 230, 465, 540 + + Jacoby, Herman, 287 + + Jacoby, Lesser, 287 + + Jacoby, Morris, 287 + + Jacoby, Nathan, 286 + + Jacoby, Philo, 465 + + Jail, old, 115, 286, 511, 530 + + Jail Street, 36 + + Jamaica, 14 + + James, Collector, 341 + + James, George Wharton, 588 + + Janeiro, Rio de, 123 + + Japanese at the Centennial, 497 + + Jazynsky, Louis, 212, 219 + + Jefferson, D., 396 + + Jelinek, Mrs. A., 623 + + Jenkins, Charles Meyers, 94, 295 + + Jenkins, William W., 76 + + Jenny Lind Bakery, 77, 191 + + Jerkies, 375 + + Jerky, 25 + + Jess, Stoddard, 473, 638, 642, 647 + + Jevne, Hans, 76, 550, 606, 638 + + Jewish Cemetery, 104, 122, 396 + + Jewish Orphans Home of Southern California, 643 + + Jewish reformed ritual, 314 + + Jewish services, 122, 314, 608, 618 + + Jewish synagogue, first, 314 + + Jewish temple, 608 + + Jewish women, 104, 409, 432, 535, 599, 644 + + Jews, threat to drive out the, 342 + + Jinks, Captain, 278 + + Johnson, Adelaida, 61 + + Johnson, Albert, 455 + + Johnson, Andrew, 361 + + Johnson, Bridget, 28 + + Johnson, Captain, 376 + + Johnson, Charles R., 62, 249, 255; Mrs. --, 255; -- & + Allanson, 62, 151 + + Johnson, Dick, 82 + + Johnson, E. P., 378, 606 + + Johnson, Hiram, 639 + + Johnson, J. A., 91 + + Johnson, James (Santiago), 53, 61, 279; Mrs. --, 38 + + Johnson, Joseph H., 622 + + Johnson, Margarita, 53 + + Johnson, Micajah D., 488 + + Johnson, Milbank, 628 + + Johnson, O. T., 581 + + Johnston, A. J., 428 + + Johnston, Albert Sidney, 107, 294, 316, 337; Mrs. --, 316, + 321, 337 + + Johnston, Albert Sidney, Jr., 320 + + Johnston, Hancock M., 322; Mrs. --, 50 + + Johnston, William Preston, 295 + + Jolly, Hi, 222 + + Joly, Joseph, 405 + + Jones, C. W., xv + + Jones, Chloe P., 533 + + Jones, Clara M., 355 + + Jones, Eleanor Brodie, xv + + Jones, E. W., 589, 626 + + Jones, G. M., 603 + + Jones, John, 65, 342, 353, 356, 366, 383, 427, 432; Mrs. --, + 65, 409 + + Jones, John H., 85, 86; Mrs. (Carrie M.) --, 85, 542, 648 + + Jones, John P., 181, 479, 485ff., 521, 586 + + Jones, John T., 105 + + Jones, M. G., 65, 545 + + Jones, Wilson W., 35, 107 + + Jones Block, 536 + + Jones's Corral, 455 + + Jordan Bros., 549 + + _Jota_ 135 + + Joughin, Andrew, 357 + + Joyce, W. H., 637 + + Juan, Cojo, 238 + + Judd, Henderson, xvi + + Judges of the Plains, 182, 183, 242 + + Judson & Belshaw, 385ff. + + Juez de Paz, 99 + + _Julius Cæsar_, 588 + + Jumper, 446 + + Juneau, 602 + + Junge, Adolph (Adolf), 290, 367 + + Junta Patriotica, 338 + + Jurupa _rancho_, 175ff., 255, 391 + + + K + + Kahn, John, 72, 606 + + Kahn, Zadoc and Mme., 450 + + Kaiser, Charles, 273 + + Kalamazoo, Mich., 106 + + Kalisher, W., 61; Mrs. --, 409; -- & Wartenberg, 61, 409 + + _Kalorama_, steamer, 465 + + Kane, Mr., 337 + + Katz, B., 405; Mrs. --, 409 + + Kays, James C., 469, 545, 618 + + Kearney, Phil., 614 + + Kearny, S. W., 206, 255 + + Keller, M., 35, 128, 200, 292, 293, 346, 436, 446, 483 + + Keller's Building, 94 + + Kellogg, D. P., xvi + + Kellogg & Co., 130 + + Kelly, Dan, 413 + + Kenealy, John, 529 + + Kercheval, Albert Fenner, 428, 574; -- Tract, 574 + + Kerckhoff, George, 515 + + Kerckhoff, William G., 515, 545; -- Building, 515 + + Kerckhoff, Mr., 581 + + Kerlin, Fred E., 320 + + Kern, Paul, 481 + + Kern County, 188, 272, 426, 437 + + Kern River, 148, 149, 317 + + Kerosene, 346 + + Kewen, A. L., 54 + + Kewen, Edward J. C., 45, 54, 55, 170, 185, 249, 285, 318, + 351, 356, 441; Mrs. --, 185 + + Keyes, C. G., xvi + + Keysor, E. F., 466, 470; -- & Morgan, 470 + + Kimball, C. H., 355 + + Kimball, Cyrus, 348 + + Kimball, Nathan, 447 + + Kimberly, Martin M., 318 + + Kimble, L., 619 + + Kindergarten, 356, 566 + + King, Andrew J., 89, 91, 246, 250, 315, 344, 347, 350, 366, + 380, 397, 426, 433, 443, 446; Mrs. --, 89, 315; -- & Co., + 350; -- & Waite, 380 + + King, Frank, 347 + + King, F. W., 606 + + King, Henry, 358 + + King, Houston, 347 + + King, John, 245, 316, 358, 380 + + King, Samuel, 91, 92 + + King, Thomas, 210 + + King, William R., 121 + + King-Carlisle duel, 347ff. + + Kingston, Tulare Co., 453 + + _Kinneloa_, 519 + + Kinney, Abbot, 519, 530, 566, 595, 603, 606, 627 + + Kip, William Ingraham, 340 + + Kirkland Valley, 415 + + Klokke, E. F. C., 606 + + _Knäckebröd_, 5 + + _Kneipe_, Temple Block 230 + + Knight, William H., 612 + + Knights Commander, Order of, 542 + + Knowles, Charles, 455 + + Knowlton, Charles, 396, 455, 469 + + Knowlton, Willis T., xvi + + Koebele, Albert, 544 + + Koepfli, J. O., 544, 606, 619, 626, 634, 635, 637 + + Kohler, F. D., 130 + + Kohler, G. Charles, 212, 213; -- & Fröhling, 213 + + Koll, Frederick W., 251, 275 + + Koster, John, 368 + + Kragevsky, Miguel, 206 + + Kremer, Campbell & Co., 280 + + Kremer, Maurice, 39, 71, 72, 189, 191, 201, 260, 280, 287, + 334, 347, 355, 365, 400, 415, 419, 636; Mrs. -- (_née_ + Newmark), 191, 599, 636 + + Kress, George H., 641 + + Kuhn, Henry, 258 + + Kuhrts, Jacob, 228, 229, 409, 446, 552, 585, 606; Mrs. --, + 229, 527 + + Ku-Klux Klan, 516 + + Kurtz, Carl, 367, 606 + + Kurtz, Joseph, 230, 367, 409, 434, 526, 540, 548, 587, 593, + 649 + + Kuster, Edward G., 637 + + + L + + Labatt Bros., 69 + + Laborie, Antoine, 64 + + Labrador, 398 + + Lacey, Sidney, 377, 446 + + Lachenais, A. M. G., 40, 303, 419 + + Lacy, Richard H., 377; -- Manufacturing Co., 377 + + Lacy, William, 377, 647 + + Lacy, William, Jr., 377 + + Ladies, escorting of, 184; -- at political gatherings, 282 + + Ladybird, 544 + + Ladybug, 544 + + Lafayette Hotel, 176, 251, 275, 321, 384, 389, 396, 397, 469 + + La Fetra, Milton H., 483 + + Lafoon, Charles, 366 + + Lager beer, first, 40 + + Lamanda Park, 578 + + Lambourn, Fred, 87, 471 + + Lamps, coal oil, 34 + + Lamson, George F., 155 + + Lamson, Gertrude, 155 + + Lamson, S. F., 338 + + Lancaro, B. H., 179 + + Land bet on races, 161 + + Land Commission, 238 + + Land Commissioners, Board of, 146, 509 + + Landmarks Club, 542 + + Land Office, Register of, 143, 214 + + Land values, unscientific consideration of (see under + Property) + + _Land of Sunshine_, 542, 646 + + Land patents, 509 + + Land syndicates in the Boom, 572 + + Lander, James H., 45, 53, 339, 348; Mrs. --, 38, 53 + + Lane, the, 394 + + Lane, Joseph, 282 + + Lane's Crossing, 281 + + Lanes, 25, 112, 126, 198, 394, 485, 614 + + Lanfranco Block, new, 371; --, old, 71, 231, 367, 369, 465, + 550; the --, hotel. 369 + + Lanfranco, Juan T., 70, 71, 216, 369, 433; Mrs. --, 71, 181, + 508 + + Lanfranco, Mateo, 70, 216 + + Lanfranco, Petra Pilar, 135 + + Lang, Gustav J., 442 + + Langenberger, A. and Mrs., 212 + + Langs, confusion as to, 442; Lang, John, No. 1, 274, 442; + --, No. 2, 442, 447; --'s Station, 387, 447, 496, 498 + + Lankershim, Isaac, 381, 421, 493; -- Ranch, 578 + + Lankershim, J. B., 381, 584, 606; Mrs. --, 65; -- Block, 192 + + Lanterns, candle, camphine, coal oil, 34 + + Largo, Juan, 169 + + Larkin, Thomas O., American Consul, 108 + + La Rue, John, 27ff., 61 + + Larrabee, Charles H., 376, 441 + + Larronde, Pedro, 311 + + Lasker, Edward, 539 + + Lasky, L., 72 + + Lasso, 243 + + Latham, Milton S., 109, 282, 285; Camp --, 299; Fort --, 321 + + Latterday Saints, 345 + + Laubheim, Samuel, 290 + + Laughlin, Homer, 201; -- Building, 201, 608, 625, 638; -- + Annex, 593 + + Laughlin, Richard, 187 + + Laundries, first, 78, 298, 310 + + _Laura Bevan_, wreck of, 66, 152 + + Laurel Tract, 442 + + Laurence, H. F., 385 + + Lauth, Philip, 230 + + Laventhal, Elias, 146, 189 + + Lawler, Oscar, 624; Mrs. --, 624 + + Lawlor, W. B., 373, 443; -- Institute, 373 + + Lawyers, 45ff.; --', fees, 47; --' Block, 596 + + Lazard, Abe, 72 + + Lazard, E. M., 72 + + Lazard Frères, 439, 522, 540 + + Lazard, Max, 89 + + Lazard, Solomon, 65, 71, 89, 120, 123, 133, 163, 224, 287, + 290, 347, 365, 366, 383, 449, 489, 503, 504, 508, 618, 637; + Mrs. --, 224, 253, 347, 508, 637; -- & Co., 132, 171, 229, + 355, 362, 400, 452; -- & Kremer, 71, 189; -- & Wolfskill, 72 + + Lazarowich, Joe, 550 + + Lazarus, P., 230, 365; Mrs. --, 365; -- Stationery Co., 365 + + Lea, Homer, 644 + + Lead mines, 385, 388 + + Lechler, George and Mrs., 235 + + Leck, Henry v. d. and Mrs., 64 + + Leck, Lorenzo, 64, 78, 259, 304, 409; Mrs. --, 304, 317; + --'s Hall, 314 + + Lecouvreur, Frank, 149, 152, 230, 319, 344, 403, 411; Mrs. + --, 411 + + Lectures, public, 190, 623 + + Ledger, reflections caused by an old, 219 + + Ledyard, Captain, 338 + + Lee, Bradner W., 475, 516, 517 + + Lee, Bradner W., Jr., xvi + + Lee, Charles, 453 + + Lee, John D., 217 + + Lee, John P., 325 + + Lee, Robert Edward, 328, 353 + + Leech, William P., 627 + + Leeds, England, 276 + + Leggings, leather, 159 + + Legislature appealed to, 207 + + Lehman, Andrew, 86 + + Lehman, George, 192, 193, 272, 273, 417, 463, 522ff. + + Leiter, Levi Z., 602 + + Leiter, Mary Victoria, 602 + + Lelande, H. J., xvi + + Lelong, Joseph, 77 + + Lemberg, Fred, 351 + + Lemons, and lemon-culture, 211, 212, 412 + + Lemon, Frank, 476 + + Lemon, William, 476 + + Le Mésnager, George, 541 + + Le Moyne, Francis Julius, 567 + + Leon, Ralph, 481 + + Leonis, Miguel, 310 + + Le Sage, Gideon, 470 + + Lessen, 3 + + Letter boxes, 94, 410 + + Letter, Jacob, 72 + + Letts, Arthur, 613 + + Levering, Noah, 540 + + Levy, E. J., 601 + + Levy, Isaac, xvi + + Levy, Michael, 372; -- & Co., 372; -- Coblentz, 372 + + Lewin, Louis and Mrs. 365; -- Co., Louis, 365 + + Lewis, David, 91; and Mrs., 93 + + Lewis, John A., 93; --, McElroy & Rand, 93 + + _Lewis Perry_, 237, 276, 290 + + Lewis, S. B., 589, 607 + + Lewis, Thomas A., 589 + + Libby Prison, 295 + + Libraries, loan, 428 + + Library Association, Los Angeles, 443 + + Library, Los Angeles, 257, 443, 513, 542, 593, 638; --, + first, 256; transferred to the City, 513 + + Lichtenberger, H., 607 + + Lichtenberger, Louis, 153, 154, 428 + + Lick, James, 71, 216, 568 + + Liebre, Rancho de la, 195 + + _Lied von der Glocke, das_, 119 + + Life insurance, 319 + + _Life and Sport in the Open_, 558 + + Lighthouses, first here, 473; --, at Catalina, 319 + + Lighting of streets and buildings, 34, 349, 408, 410 + + Lightner, Isaac, 344 + + Lily Langtry Tract, 575 + + Lincoln, Abraham, 142, 236, 238, 249, 264, 289, 297, 307, + 315, 330, 334, 337, 338, 339, 399, 595; vote in Los Angeles, + 282 + + Lindley, Albert, 473 + + Lindley, Henry, 473 + + Lindley, Ida B., 473 + + Lindley, Milton, 473 + + Lindley Walter, 322, 473, 589, 641 + + Lindskow, 404 + + Lindville, 405 + + Lips, Charles C., 356, 409, 449, 539 + + Lips, Walter, 356; --, Craigue & Co., 356 + + Lissner, Meyer, 639 + + Little, W. H., 206, 207 + + Littlefield, J. C., 444 + + Little Lake, 387 + + Liverpool, England, 8, 9, 10, 381, 447, 493 + + Livery stables, 377, 383, 389, 429 + + Livingstone, David, 211 + + Llewellyn, David, 559 + + Llewellyn, Llewellyn J., 559; -- Iron Works, 559 + + Llewellyn, Reese, 559 + + Llewellyn, William, 559 + + Lloyd, Reuben, 474 + + Locomotives (see under Railroads) + + Lock-boxes, postal, 372 + + Locust trees, black, 162, 539 + + Loeb, Edwin J., xv., 355 + + Loeb, Joseph P., xv., 355, 637 + + Loeb, Leon, 355, 383, 540, 606; Mrs. --, 355, 636 + + Loebau, 1, 5, 7, 12, 360, 361, 564, 621 + + Loew, Jacob, 87, 367, 425; Mrs. --, 367 + + Loewenstein, Emanuel, 75 + + Loewenstein, Hilliard, 75, 233; Mrs. --, 75 + + Loewenthal, Max, 75 + + Logan, honey dealer, 127 + + Lomas de Santiago _rancho_, 170 + + London, 360, 407 + + London & San Francisco Bank, 412 + + Lone Pine, 375 + + Long Beach, 166, 167, 374, 519, 580, 601, 620; -- disaster, + 647 + + Longevity, 493, 528, 649 + + Longfellow, Henry W., 624 + + Lopez, bandit, 209 + + Lord, Isaac W., 377, 449, 489, 505, 563, 576 + + Lordsburg, 576, 578 + + Loricke, E. M., 462 + + Loring, Frederick, 430, 431 + + Los Angeles, 6, xv., 22ff., 36, 52, 205, 231, 240, 258, 313, + 338, 348, 349, 365, 379, 388, 400, 402, 417, 440ff., 445, + 504, 510, 528, 539, 541, 557, 598, 614, 618, 626, 640, 642, + 643; extension of hospitality, 398, 639 + + Los Angeles advertised at the Centennial, 483, 498 + + Los Angeles and consolidation with harbor towns, 638 + + _Los Angeles and Environs_, 620 + + Los Angeles and the Civil War, 294, 299ff., 305, 308, 311, + 316, 318, 321, 323, 326, 328, 330, 333, 334, 337ff., 350, + 353, 371 + + Los Angeles and the Southern Pacific Railroad problem, 440 + ff, 489, 502ff + + Los Angeles as market for the interior, 385; as market for + whalers, 308 + + Los Angeles charity, criticism of, 431 + + Los Angeles Coffee Saloon, 279 + + Los Angeles College, 566 + + Los Angeles College Clinical Association, 367 + + Los Angeles County, 25, 35, 92, 188, 426; organization of, + 35; ownership of, 166; proposed divisions of, 406, 593; + reward unpaid, 425 + + _Los Angeles County, An Historical Sketch of_, 365, 501 + + _Los Angeles County, History of_, (Guinn) 620 + + Los Angeles County Bank, 466 + + Los Angeles County Homeopathic Medical Society, 548 + + Los Angeles County Railroad, 592 + + Los Angeles Court House, adobe, 40, 256; Temple --, 67, 294, + 339, 441, 449; present --, 301, 452 + + Los Angeles Crematory Society, 567 + + Los Angeles, early views of, 364 + + Los Angeles Furniture Co., 378 + + Los Angeles Gas Co., 489 + + Los Angeles Guards, 499 + + Los Angeles Harbor, 545, 637, 642; -- Board, 642; -- + dredging, 426; proposed harbors, 581. (See _Harbor + Contest_.) + + _Los Angeles, History of_, (Willard) 646 + + Los Angeles High School, 301, 419, 452, 532; first -- + student to enter State University, 536 + + Los Angeles Infirmary, 210 + + Los Angeles Medical Society, 370 + + Los Angeles Pacific Railroad Co., 613 + + Los Angeles, panoramic views of, 364 + + Los Angeles Produce Exchange, 537 + + Los Angeles Rifleros, 499 + + Los Angeles River, 116, 258, 289, 398, 412; --, right to + water of, 541 + + Los Angeles Saddlery Co., 82 + + Los Angeles Savings Bank, 358 + + Los Angeles Soap Co., 470 + + Los Angeles Social Club, 383, 500 + + Los Angeles Soda Water Works, 363 + + _Los Angeles_: steamer, 346; little steamer, 395, 398, 404; + locomotive, 402, 404 + + Los Angeles Street, 30, 288, 383, 400, 408, 433, 472, 510 + + Los Angeles Terminal Railroad, 597 + + Los Angeles Theater, 590 + + Los Angeles Water Co., 366, 377, 384, 389, 418, 446, 510, + 534, 617 + + Los Angeles & Independence Railroad, 485, 487, 488, 521, + 569; --depot, 485 + + Los Angeles & San Gabriel Valley Railroad, 549, 585 + + Los Angeles & San Pedro Railroad, 295, 318, 321, 334, 353, + 354, 363, 370, 375, 380, 383, 384, 393, 396, 404, 408, 430, + 440, 441, 452, 506, 521; --, depot, (later owned by the + Southern Pacific) 107, 383, 393, 400, 401, 403; first train + into Los Angeles, 401; first regular trains, 403; first + midnight train, 402; first popular excursion, 402 + + Los Angeles & Truxton Railroad, 460 + + Lothian, I. A., 619, 635 + + Lott, A. E., 386 + + Lotteries, land sales by, 573 + + Louis French, 369 + + Louis Vielle (Louis _Gordo_), 369 + + Louisiana Coffee Saloon, 279 + + Love, Harry, 58 + + Lover's Lane, 198 + + Low, Frederick, F., 323, 338 + + Lowe, Ella Housefield, xvi + + Lowe, T. S. C., 561, 604; -- Railroad, Mount, 604; -- + Astronomical Observatory, 604 + + Lowe, W. W., 521 + + Lowenthal, Henry, 627 + + Lucky, W. T., 389, 452 + + Lugo, António María, and the Lugo family, 35, 47, 74, 102, + 135, 159, 167, 168, 174, 183, 200, 214, 253, 263, 376 + + Lugo, Felipe, 220, 242 + + Lugo, José del Carmen, 87, 174 + + Lugo, José María, 87, 99, 174 + + Lugo, José Ygnácio, 171, 263 + + Lugo, Magdalena, 171 + + Lugo, Vicente, 87, 99, 102, 174 + + Lugo, Ygnácio, 74, 158, 174 + + Luleå, 4 + + Lumber-famine, 380 + + Lumber, from San Bernardino, 88; -- yards, 81, 88, 274, 380 + + Lummis, Charles F., 232, 364, 541ff., 593, 607, 626, 638, + 646, 647, 648; personality, 542; on the memoirs of Harris + Newmark, xii + + Lummis, M. Dorothea, 548 + + _L'Union Nouvelle_, 516 + + _Lusitania_, sinking of the, 644 + + Last, C. F. A., 607 + + Lynch, Joseph D., 516, 556, 581 + + Lynchings: Brown, 140; Alvitre, 147; Flores, 209; Daniel, + 223; Cota, 304; Daimwood, 324; wholesale, 325; Cerradel, + 326; Wilkins, 327; Lachenais, 420; Chinese, 30, 433; --, + defense of, 141; --, El Monte boys at, 91, 324, 471 + + Lyons, Cy, 194, 195; --'s Station, 194 + + Lyons, Sanford, 194 + + + M + + Macaulay, Thomas Babington, xi + + MacGowan, Granville, 201 + + McArthur, Anna, 107 + + McBride, James, 404 + + McConnell, J. R., 597 + + McCoy, Frank, 579 + + McCracken, T. W., 416 + + McCrea, John, 404 + + McCrellish, Frederick J., 270, 271, 283ff.; -- & Co., 270 + + McCullough, J. G., 341 + + McDonald, Edward N., 218; -- Block, 206, 218, 545 + + McDonald, N. A., 404 + + McDougal, F. A. and Mrs., 168, 383 + + McDowell, Hugh, 617 + + McDowell, Irwin, 341 + + McElroy, John, 93 + + McFadden, James, 506 + + McFadden, P., 366 + + McFadden, William, 419 + + McFarland, Albert, 556 + + McFarland, James P., 107, 109; -- & Downey, 109 + + McGarry Tract, 574 + + McGarvin, D. C., 607 + + McGinnis, Ed., 137 + + McGroarty, John S., 102 + + McGuire, Thomas, 422 + + McKee, H. S., 625 + + McKee, William, 107, 163, 321, 539 + + McKinley, William, 616, 618 + + McKinney, Preston, 559 + + McLain, George P., 446; -- & Lehman, 559 + + McClellan, Bryce, 464, 483 + + McClellan, George F., 483 + + McClellan, H., 483 + + McLoughlin, Ben, 153 + + McMullen's Station, 415 + + Machado, Augustin, 63, 179 + + Machado, Susana, 63 + + Machado, Ygnácio, 179 + + _Machete_, 231 + + Mackey, A. F., 587 + + Maclay, Charles, 459 + + Macniel, Hugh Livingston, 561 + + Macy, Lucinda, 106 + + Macy, Obed, 26, 91, 92, 150, 297; -- Street, 92, 198, 412 + + Macy, Oscar, 91, 92, 210, 216, 297 + + Madigan, Eliza, 321, 355 + + Madigan, Mike, 383; -- lot, 396 + + Madox, A., 91 + + Madras, 547 + + Magic performances, 318 + + Magruder, John B., 224 + + Mahler, first Jewish child to die here, 104 + + Mahlstedt, Mrs. D., 527 + + Maier, Simon, 69, 607 + + Mail, dead-letter, 267; --, disturbed, 291; --, sent by + express company, 374, 375; Overland --, 256, 259; uncertain + arrival of --, 235, 374; -- routes, 361; improvement in + despatch of --, 264; small amount of -- business, 431; + introduction of money-orders by --, 431; -- by stages, 234, + 373, 374 + + Main Street, 31, 32, 73, 112, 125, 158, 335, 472, 518, 519, + 535, 543, 561, 573, 584 + + Main Street Savings Bank, 561 + + Main Street & Agricultural Park Railway Co., 389, 462 + + _Maine_, the, 616 + + Maison Dorée, 513 + + Major, L. A., 516 + + Mallard, Augusta, 361 + + Mallard, Joseph Stillman, 33, 36, 89, 205, 361, 364, 411; + Mrs. --, 46; -- Street, 36 + + Mallard, Mary, 411 + + Mallard, Walter, 89 + + Mallory, Stephen Russell, 467 + + Maloney, Richard, 239 + + Manilla, 365 + + Manning, Celeste, xvi + + Manning, Joe, 464 + + Mansfield, John, 541, 587, 597 + + Manufacturers' Association, 611 + + Marble-cutter, first, 406 + + Marchessault, Damien, 132, 241, 258, 350, 366 + + Mariguana, 14 + + Mariposa, 148 + + Mariposa, La, 550 + + Mariposa Big Trees, 272 + + Market House, Temple, 240, 241, 258, 263, 294 + + Markham, Henry Harrison, 378, 517, 598 + + Marks, Baruch, 75; -- & Co., B., 75 + + Marriages, native, 136 + + Marsh, William, 149 + + Marshall & Henderson, 537 + + Marshals, U. S., 315, 543 + + Martial law, 207 + + Martin & Co., E., 356 + + Martin, Jack, 268 + + Martin, Mrs. Peter, 355 + + Martin, W. H., 237 + + Martinez, Nicolás, 391 + + Mascarel, José, 62, 63, 65, 339, 341, 423, 596; -- & Barri, + 189 + + Masonic Temple, San Francisco, laying of corner-stone, 270 + + Masons, F. & A., 156, 208, 317, 371, 624; Lodge No. 42, 26, + 105, 118, 203 + + Massachusetts Cavalry, Second, 295 + + Matches, Swedish, 120 + + Mathes, S. J., 482 + + Mathews, John R., 537 + + Maurício, Maurice, 191 + + Maximilian, Emperor, 224, 359 + + Maxwell, George W., 567 + + Maxwell, Walter S., 71, 537, 568; Mrs. --, 71 + + Mayerhofer, Josephine, 191 + + Mayors of Los Angeles, 32, 33, 36, 50, 100, 105, 115, 147, + 218, 288, 302, 372, 379, 388, 398, 399, 445, 467, 556, 561, + 566, 613, 616, 638, 639, 642; Mayor as Justice of Peace, 524 + + Mazatlán, 23, 27 + + Meat-packers, 482 + + Meat, price affected by cold, 381 + + Mechanics' Institute, 190 + + Medical aid, visiting Europe for, 164 + + Medical colleges, Los Angeles, 280, 593; first medical + school, 548 + + _Medical Profession of Southern California, History of the_, + 641 + + Medicines, early, 110 + + Meiggs, Harry, 21 + + Mellus, Francis, 35, 36, 39, 61, 87, 105, 119, 132, 137, + 227, 256, 265, 288; Mrs. --, 61, 227 + + Mellus, Henry, 39, 85, 132, 133, 226, 227, 256, 268, 284, + 288; Mrs. --, 85, 133, 227; -- & Howard, 61 + + Mellus, James J., 61, 537, 607 + + Mellus' Row, 60, 61, 71, 75, 248, 309, 313, 351, 472 + + Mendell, George H., 618 + + Mercantile Place, 539 + + Merced Ranch, 167, 520 + + Merchandise, bet on races, 161; --, early prices of, 73 + + Merchandising, extravagant stories about, 38 + + Merchants' Association, 605, 611 + + Merchants and Manufacturers' Association, 611, 634 + + Merchants, small stocks of, 311; --, tricks of, 131, 177 + + Merrymaking, 135 + + _Mesa_, 322 + + _Mescal_, 134, 205, 424 + + Mesmer, Joseph, 244, 630 + + Mesmer, Louis, 191, 244, 303, 380, 523, 581, 596 + + Messer, Kiln, 123, 200, 274, 275, 410; Mrs. --, 442 + + Methodists, 103, 340, 516 + + Metlakahtla, 602 + + Metropolitan Building, 639 + + Mexican War, 108, 169; -- Veterans, 138, 499 + + Mexicans, 89, 322, 330, 333; _cuisine_ of, 102, 133, 630; + dress of, 99, 157; goods of, 62, 66, 279; as laborers, 25; + as outlaws, 206, 333; as illiterate voters, 42 + + Mexico, 397; peace proclamation of, 400 + + Mexico, City of, 57, 546 + + Meyberg, Max, 605, 606, 639; -- Bros., 611 + + Meyberg, Mrs. Morris, xvi + + Meyer, Constant, 452 + + Meyer, Edgar J., 644 + + Meyer, Eugene, 68, 198, 237, 290, 355, 366, 377, 381, 383, + 400, 450, 452, 464, 466, 480, 499, 523, 540, 644; Mrs. --, + 196, 290, 377, 564, 637, 644; -- & Co., Eugene, 452, 643 + + Meyer, Isaac A., 309; -- & Breslauer, 309 + + Meyer, J. A., 297 + + Meyer, Louisa, xvi + + Meyer, Mendel, 233, 459 + + Meyer, Samuel, 26, 75, 150, 194, 233, 309, 383; Mrs. --, 75 + + Meyer & Breslauer, 309 + + Meying, William, xvi + + Michaels, M., 72 + + Micheltorena, Manuel, 92, 178 + + Midwinter Fair, San Francisco, 605 + + _Mikado_, 547 + + Miles, Charles E., 446, 454, 457 + + Miles, Nelson A., 581, 586, 587 + + Military academy, first, 622; -- bands, 296, 394, 398, 579; + -- posts, Los Angeles trade with, 265 + + Milk, early peddling of, 172 + + Miller, marble cutter, 406 + + Miller, John M., 543 + + Miller & Lux, 458 + + Milliner's advertisement, 492 + + Millington, S. J., 427 + + Mills and millers, 54, 87, 213, 218, 367, 381, 470, 581 + + Millspaugh, Jesse F., 532 + + Milner, John, 404, 452, 568; Mrs. --, 527 + + Miner, Randolph Huntington, 473, 612; Mrs. --, 473 + + Mining and miners, 17, 94, 108, 123, 126, 148, 149, 228, + 268, 271, 318, 321, 385ff., 474, 475, 476, 477 + + Minstrels, 186 + + Mint Valley, 415 + + Minting, early, 130 + + Miron, Juan María, 202 + + Miron, Juana, 202 + + _Mirror_, Los Angeles, 444, 474, 482, 530, 533, 617 + + Mission Dolores, 276 + + Mission Fathers, 88, 92, 101, 115, 199 + + Mission Inn, Frank Miller's, 625 + + Mission Play, 102 + + Mission Road, 42, 533 + + Missions (see under Spanish Missions) + + Mitchell, Charles E., xvi + + Mitchell, Henry Milner, 417, 455, 457, 488, 499; --, shot by + mistake, 517; Mrs. --, 517 + + Mitchell, John S., 492 + + Mix, W. A., 405 + + Mob, psychology of the, 324 + + Modjeska, Helena, 494, 495; -- Avenue, 495 + + Moerenhaut, Jacob A., 254, 317, 501 + + Moffatt & Co., 130 + + Moffitt, A. B., 521 + + Mohave County, Arizona, 92 + + _Mohongo_, 465 + + Moiso, Jim, 550 + + Mojave, desert, 317; Fort --, 281; --, town of, 386, 387 + + _Molino, El_, 54 + + Mondonville, 579 + + Money, exchange with San Francisco, 129; expressing -- as + coin to San Francisco, 129; hoarding -- in bags, 129; -- + orders, first foreign, 431 + + Monk, Hank, 429 + + Monroe, William N., 563 + + Monrovia, 467, 563, 576, 578, 620 + + Montana, 304, 351 + + Monte, El, 71, 88, 90, 91, 92, 107, 150, 196, 207, 234, 251, + 261, 317, 324, 325, 354, 426, 452, 471 + + Montebello, 535 + + Monterey, 22, 47, 254, 255, 279, 520 + + _Monterey_, steamer, 465 + + Monte Vista, 579 + + Montgomery Saloon, 31, 209, 282 + + Moody, Dwight L., 590 + + Moore, C. E., 642 + + Moore, Maggie, 381 + + Moore, Walter S., 71, 464, 587; Mrs. --, 71 + + Moore, William, 319 + + Moran, John, 363 + + More, Ira, 532, 604 + + Moreno, bankrupt, 68 + + Moreno, Francisco, 159 + + Morford, W. E., 476 + + Morgan, Octavius, 469, 568 + + Morgan, Cosmo, 465; -- & Newmark, 465 + + Mormons, 87, 88, 151, 155, 156, 217, 218, 242, 320, 345 + + _Morning Call_, San Francisco, 427 + + Morris, Herman, 72 + + Morris, Jacob, 72 + + Morris, J. L., 72, 383 + + Morris, Moritz, 72, 356, 383, 540; -- Bros., 104; -- + Vineyard, 104, 539 + + Morris, shoemaker, 86 + + Morrison, Murray, 185, 295, 365, 436; Mrs. --, 185, 436 + + Morsch, Fred, 409 + + Mortimer, C. White, 597 + + Morton, F., 65, 66, 152, 248 + + Morton, Levi P., 617 + + Mosher, L. E., 583, 607, 616 + + Mosquito Gulf, 14 + + Mott, John G., 72 + + Mott, Stephen Hathaway, 82, 366, 472, 534 + + Mott, Thomas D., 64, 72, 73, 81, 82, 160, 181, 309, 311, + 323, 324, 335, 366, 383, 440; Mrs. --, 181, 309; -- Hall, + 590; -- Market, 590 + + Moulton, Elijah T., 171, 289; Mrs. --, 171 + + Mountain Meadow Massacre, 106, 217 + + Mountain travel, difficulty of, 120, 121, 285 + + Mounted Rifles, Los Angeles, 294 + + Mud Springs, 387 + + Mueller, Otto, 518 + + Muir Glacier, 602 + + Mulberry-tree, 390 + + Mule Springs, 414 + + Mules, 16, 92, 312; on street railways, 462; mule trains, + 187, 312, 385 + + Mulholland, William, 50, 509, 555 + + Mullally, Joe, 396; --, Porter & Ayers, 83 + + Mumus, 125 + + Municipal and County Adobe, 36, 40, 41, 209, 256, 324, 338, + 530 + + Municipal League, 545, 646 + + Munk, J. A., 636, 647, 648 + + Murat, John, 258 + + "Murchison, Charles F.," 590; -- Letters, 590 + + Murders, 31, 35, 46, 58, 139, 190, 206, 303, 304, 323, 324, + 326, 327, 330, 340, 418, 424, 430, 432, 470, 512, 629 + + Murdoch, W. T., 610 + + Murieta, Joaquín, 58 + + Murphy, Joe, 381 + + Murphy, Sheriff, 223 + + Muscupiabe, 90 + + Museum of History, Science and Art, 110, 159, 238, 253, 258, + 291, 457, 479, 622, 631, 640, 645 + + Mushet, W. C., 639 + + Music, early, 157, 183, 193, 268, 398; Spanish and Mexican, + --, 22, 31; -- teachers, 373; musicians, 183, 213, 214, 412 + + Mustard, wild, 126 + + Mutton, 216 + + Myles, Henry R., 109, 111, 320 + + + N + + Nadeau, George A., 304 + + Nadeau, H., 492 + + Nadeau, Remi, 304, 385ff., 421, 513, 534, 558; -- Block, + 558; --Hotel, 385, 513, 518, 534, 587; -- Park, 576, 579; -- + Station, 388; _rancho_, 388 + + Napa Valley, 199 + + Naples, 621 + + Naples, California, 630 + + Nast, Thomas, 590 + + Natick House, 63, 77 + + _Nation, The_, xii + + National Hotel, 396 + + Natives, naïve temperaments of, 162 + + Naud, Edouard, 202, 288; Mrs. --, 202; --'s Warehouse, 288 + + Needles, 440 + + Negroes, 123, 138, 330, 527; negro troops, 330 + + Negros, Calle de los, 30, 98, 288, 510 + + Neuendorffer, R. C., xvi + + Neumark, West Prussia, 1 + + Neuner, M. C., 639 + + Nevada Bank, San Francisco, 595 + + New Arlington Hotel, 418, 552 + + New High Street, 472 + + Newberry, John R., 551 + + Newell, Jerry, 83 + + Newfoundland, storm off, 11 + + Newhall, Walter S., 607 + + Newhall, 41, 95, 170, 504 + + Newman, Edward, 330 + + Newmark, Abraham, son of Joseph Newmark, 538 + + Newmark, Augusta, wife of J. P. Newmark, 163, 191, 240; + death of, 611 + + Newmark Bros., 559 + + Newmark, Caroline, daughter of Joseph Newmark, 121, 347 + + Newmark, Edith, daughter of Harris Newmark, 470 + + Newmark, Edward J., son of Joseph Newmark, 121, 376, 624 + + Newmark, Edward J., son of Harris Newmark, 515 + + Newmark, Ella, daughter of Harris Newmark, 517, 533 + + Newmark, Emily, daughter of Harris Newmark, 367 + + Newmark, Estelle, daughter of Harris Newmark, 355 + + Newmark (Neumark), Esther, mother of Harris Newmark, 1, 2, + 3, 7; death of, 360 + + Newmark, Harriet, daughter of Joseph Newmark, 121, 195, 290 + + Newmark, Harriet, daughter of J. P. Newmark, 444 + + Newmark (Neumark), Harris, son of Philipp Neumark, birth, 1; + boyhood, 2; accompanies father to Sweden, 3, 649; first + experience at sea, 3; in Denmark and Sweden, 4; returns to + Loebau, 4; becomes shoeblacking apprentice, 4; visits + Finland, 5; experience with Russian bigotry, 5; last winter + at Loebau, 5; invited by brother, J. P. Newmark, to come to + California, 6; leaves Gothenburg for America, 7; forms + peculiar acquaintance, 7ff.; lands at Hull, 8; arrested + with fellow-passenger at Liverpool, 9; misses steamer, 9; + sails from Liverpool, 10; narrowly escapes shipwreck, 11; + arrives at New York, 12; tries peddling--for a day, 13; + sails for California _via_ Nicaragua, 14; crosses the + Isthmus, 15; adventure on a mule, 16; shares the + vicissitudes of the trip with Lieutenant William Tecumseh + Sherman, 17; reaches the Pacific, 18; enters the Golden + Gate, 19; meets Mr. and Mrs. Joseph Newmark and family, 121; + absorbed with early San Francisco life, 19ff.; continues + sea-trip to Southern California, 22; disembarks at San + Pedro, 22; meets Phineas Banning, 23; comes by stage to Los + Angeles, 24; amazed at first sight of Indians, squirrels and + _carne seca_, 25; reunion with brother, 26; clerks for + brother, 27; makes rounds of Los Angeles gambling dens, 30 + ff.; faces gun of drunken neighbor, 58; and confronts weapon + of another joker, 60; early associations with Mayor Nichols, + 32; acts as agent for Henry Hancock, 37; lives in the family + of Joseph Newmark, 121; first meeting with George Hansen, + 37; friendship with George Carson, 217; learns Spanish + before English, 121; becomes charter member of Los Angeles + Hebrew Benevolent Society, 123; establishes himself in + business, 128; sacrifices necessary to attain success, 128; + first business profits, 128; duns a debtor at some personal + risk, 144; becomes partner in Rich, Newmark & Co., 146; + business trips and adventures, 150ff.; attends bull-fight, + 161; experiences first earthquake, 165; participates in + early social life, 183; forms friendship with Cameron E. + Thom, 228; proposes marriage to Miss Sarah Newmark, 103; + third business venture, 189; revisits San Francisco, 191; + rides horseback to Fort Tejón, 194ff.; begins buying hides, + 196; joins the Masonic order, 203; second experience with + earthquake, 204; as Vigilante, 205; again visits San + Francisco, 211; dealings with Louis Robidoux, 175; engages + in sheep business, 220; eyewitness to slaying of Sheriff + Getman, 221; marries Miss Sarah Newmark, 224, 589; engages + in the clothing trade, 237; unfortunate business venture at + Fort Tejón, 248; participates in a _rodeo_, 242; forms + friendship with Winfield Scott Hancock, 246; N. on Hancock's + patriotism, 300; becomes citizen of the United States, 249; + associations with Juan Bandini, 255; appointed Deputy County + Treasurer, 260; delegate to Masonic ceremonies, San + Francisco, 270; first opportunity to use the telegraph, 271; + cordial relations with Senator Gwin, 296; sees lynching of + Cota, 304; embarks in the commission business, 310; suffers + first loss of a child, 317; is examined for health and + becomes pioneer policy holder of Germania Insurance Company, + 319; present at wholesale lynching, 324; condones lynch-law, + 141; probable narrow escape from accidental assassination, + 330; observes fearful effect of drought, 329; loss in hide + speculation, 331; pays high price for flour and beans, 332; + buys first home, 335; plays poker in jury-room, 55; + represses an anti-Lincoln demonstration and saves a friend, + 337; in response to a threat, establishes, with Phineas + Banning, the firm of H. Newmark, soon H. Newmark & Co., 342 + ff.; takes Frank Lecouvreur into his service, 344; dealings + with Mormons, 345; forces business competitors to + capitulate, 353; buys out Banning, 353; spectator at the + King-Carlisle duel, 348; also at the Kewen-Lemberg affray, + 351; decides to remove to New York, 359; with family, + crosses the Isthmus of Panamá, 359; opens branch office in + the metropolis, 359; buys home in New York, 359; revisits + Europe, and sees again birthplace and father, 360; at the + Paris Exposition of 1867, 360; unpleasant predicament at + Covent Garden, 360; bears to Miss Mary Hollister proposal of + marriage from Phineas Banning, 368; returns to Los Angeles, + 376; imports one of the first grand pianos seen here, 376; + introduces finger-bowls, 377; installs bathroom in adobe, + 119; buys city acreage at auction, 379; purchases site for + home on Fort Street, 68, 381; helps organize first social + club, 383; friendship with Remi Nadeau, 386ff.; assists in + welcoming William H. Seward, 398; with an amusing result, + 400; involuntary candidate for Supervisorship, 403; + counsellor to Ladies' Hebrew Benevolent Society, 409; + intimate relations with early ranchers, 421; helps organize + Sixth District Agricultural Society, 426; on committee to + arrange patriotic celebration, 428; witnesses Chinese + massacre, 434; psychologically affected by the wool craze, + 437ff.; member of committee to invite Southern Pacific + Railroad Company to build into Los Angeles, 440, 502; helps + prepare County railroad ordinances, 441; one of the founders + of the Public Library, 443; visits Vasquez in captivity, + 458; travels to San Francisco by stage, 465; N. on the + future of Fort Street, 466; housewarming, 467; first meeting + with Lucky Baldwin, 474; visits Lake Tahoe, 477; advises + Juan Matías Sanchez against risking his property, 478; buys + first lot sold in Santa Monica, 480; coöperates in editing + Chamber of Commerce report for Centennial, 482; by stage and + rail to San Francisco, 496; visits Centennial Exhibition, + 497; crossing Continent to New York by rail, 497; makes use + of early typewriter, 497; again in San Francisco, 498; takes + part in the opening of San Fernando Tunnel, 504; N. on + discourteous treatment of C. F. Crocker by municipal + authorities, 504; relations with Leland Stanford, 322, 506; + dealings with John E. Hollenbeck, 492; failure to appreciate + land-values, 513; sells Van Nuys Building site, 515; removes + temporarily to San Francisco, 520; President of the + Congregation, B'nai B'rith, 608; President, Temple Block + Co., 596; meets Mme. Modjeska, 495; director, Board of + Trade, 537; celebrates silver wedding, 538; entertains Dr. + Edward Lasker, 540; tours Mexico and visits New Orleans + Exposition, 546; retires from wholesale grocery business, + 549; with Kaspare Cohn forms K. Cohn & Co., 549; resumes + shipping of hides and wool, 549; relations with Alessandro + Repetto, 552ff.; administrator of Repetto's estate, 553; + one of the purchasers of the Repetto _rancho_, 552, 555; a + founder of Newmark and Montebello, 555; invited to stand as + candidate for Mayor, 556; brings in Eastern coal at + fabulously low rates, 557; again tours Europe, 564; N. on + State division, 592; invests in gas-making plant, 561; in + Alaska, 602; at the Chicago Fair, 605; dissolves partnership + with Kaspare Cohn, 613; revives H. Newmark & Co., 613; on + Pioneer Society committee, 614; N.'s tribute to his brother, + J. P. Newmark, 611; builds residence on Grand Avenue, 593; + once more buys a lot at Santa Monica, 596; final visit to + Europe, 621; builds Blanchard Hall, 68; buys electric + automobiles--and soon sells them, 626; proposes monument to + S. M. White, 469; erects Gamut Club, 625; participates in a + movement to provide land for Federal Building, 630; retires + from business, 633; N.'s tribute to Lionel J. Adams, 636; + golden wedding anniversary, 636; at banquet to William H. + Taft, 639; N. on the death of his wife, 640; recollections + of family physicians, 648; breaks ground for Jewish Orphans' + Home, 643; joins in testimonial to Griffith J. Griffith, + 643; speech at the half-century jubilee of M. A. Newmark & + Co., 344; receives loving cup, 344; at Santa Monica, looking + backward, vii, 649; views on longevity and health, 649; + attitude toward alcohol and tobacco, 649; pride in Los + Angeles, 651; object in writing his memoirs, ix, 477 + + Newmark & Co., H., wholesale grocers, establishing of the + firm, 343; monopolize trade, 345; supply Government stores, + 354; agents for insurance, 280; affected by hard times, 358; + open branch office in New York, 359; trade with Arizona, + 414; declared "the largest shippers," 436; attitude toward a + proposed opposition steamer, 436; assistance rendered Remi + Nadeau, 386ff.; dealers in wool, 437; purchase the Santa + Anita _rancho_, 439; the first to operate a two horse + flat-truck, 439; sale of the Santa Anita, 474; their + patronage solicited by Leland Stanford, 322, 506; twice + burglarized, 486; fight with the Southern Pacific Railroad + Co., 506; purchase of Temple Block, 510; early to employ + traveling salesmen, 521; loss in barley speculation, 534; + among the first to use the telephone, 531; give fountain to + the City, 534; removal from Arcadia Block to Amestoy + Building, Los Angeles Street, 537; dissolution of the firm, + 549; revival, a decade later, 613; 111, 230, 252, 301, 375, + 379, 382, 422, 425, 444, 451, 475, 478, 500, 502, 514, 521, + 526, 535 + + Newmark, Henry M., son of Myer J. Newmark, 465 + + Newmark, Hulda, niece of Harris Newmark, 443 + + Newmark (Neumark), Johanna, sister of Harris Newmark, 7 + + Newmark (Neumark), Joseph, uncle of Harris Newmark, and + first to adopt the English form of the name, 122; + personality, 122; reaches New York, 122; organizes there Elm + Street and Wooster Street synagogues, 122; joins the Masons, + at Somerset, Connecticut, 122; marries Miss Rosa Levy, 122; + removes to St. Louis, 122; then to Dubuque, 122; arrives in + Los Angeles, 121ff.; brings first Chinese servant seen + here, 123, 297; establishes Los Angeles Hebrew Benevolent + Society, 122; officiates as rabbi, 122; holds first Jewish + service in Los Angeles, 122, 314; leads movement for a Los + Angeles Jewish cemetery, 122; performs ceremony at marriage + of sons and daughters, 191, 224, 290, 347, 464; member of + Newmark, Kremer & Co., 189; death of, 520; 37, 205, 228, + 409, 464, 637 + + Newmark (Neumark, Joseph Philipp), J. P., brother of Harris + Newmark, 2; and first of family to come to California, 6; + assists father in Sweden, 3; goes to England, 3; embarks for + America, is drawn to San Francisco by the gold fever, and + settles in Los Angeles, 6; buys out Howard, 27; partner of + Jacob Rich, 19, 32; as merchant, 27, 37, 57, 73, 427; + wholesaler, 32; imports first camphine to Los Angeles, 34; + attends three-day barbecue, 157; sends for Harris, 6; + furnishing him with funds, 13; and gives him employment, 27; + interrupts an entertainment, 60; removes to San Francisco, + 60; sells out and establishes credit for his brother, 128; + acts also as his business adviser, 146, 359; helps organize + Rich, Newmark & Co., 146; becomes a Mason, 203; revisits + Europe, 163; bearer of U. S. Government despatches, 163; + marries, in Germany, Fräulein Augusta Leseritz, 163; returns + from Europe, 191; member of Newmark, Kremer & Co., 189; + removes again to San Francisco, 240; activity there as + commission merchant, 240, 344, 438; forms partnership with + Isaac Lightner under title of J. P. Newmark & Co., 344; + advises Harris to remove to New York, 359; visits Lake Tahoe + and the mines of Nevada, 477; member of the delegation from + San Francisco to attend the opening of the San Fernando + tunnel, 503; visits Carlsbad, 520; returns to San Francisco, + 520; journeys again to Europe, 589; and returns to Los + Angeles, 589; death of, 611; 26, 271, 444, 559, 564, 598; -- + & Kremer, 237; --, Kremer & Co., 36, 104, 176, 189, 219, + 235, 237; -- & Rich, 33; -- & Co., J. P., 344 + + Newmark, Josephine Rose, youngest daughter of Harris + Newmark, 564, 593 + + Newmark, Leo, son of Harris Newmark, 515 + + Newmark, Leo, son of J. P. Newmark, xv, 564, 598 + + Newmark, Marco R., son of Harris Newmark, accompanies + parents to Europe, 564; visits Alaska, 603; graduates from + the University of California and attends the University of + Berlin, 624; enters the wholesale grocery trade, 624; + friendly association with Homer Lea, 644; vii + + Newmark, Matilda, daughter of Joseph Newmark, 121, 191 + + Newmark (Neumark), Morris A., nephew of Harris Newmark, + arrives in Los Angeles, 344; clerks for H. Newmark, later H. + Newmark & Co., 354; admitted as partner, 444; marries + Harriet, daughter of J. P. Newmark, 444; helps organize M. + A. Newmark & Co., 549; participates in their fiftieth + anniversary, and receives silver cup, 344; 443, 514, 601 + + Newmark & Co., M. A., successors to H. Newmark & Co., 549; + removal to Wholesale Street, 644; celebrate their fiftieth + anniversary, 343; 517, 535, 559, 600, 624, 629, 644 + + Newmark, Maurice H., son of Harris Newmark, sent to school + in New York and Paris, 450; partner in M. A. Newmark & Co., + 549; association with first three _fiestas_, 606, 607; + member of Executive Committee of Sound Money League, 613; + President of Associated Jobbers, 619, 635, 637; Chairman of + Supply Committee for Relief of San Francisco, 634; helps + incorporate Southwest Museum, 647; member of Executive + Committee, Stephen M. White Memorial Fund, 469; one of + Committee on Harbor Consolidation, 638; Chairman, W. C. + Mushet Campaign Committee, 639; appointed Harbor + Commissioner, 642; resigns from Commission, 642; presents + silver cup to M. A. Newmark, at half-century jubilee, 344; + v, 497, 545, 642 + + Newmark (Neumark), Max N., nephew of Harris Newmark, 382; -- + & Edwards, 382; -- Grain Co., 382 + + Newmark, Myer J., son of Joseph Newmark, journeys to + California _via_ the Horn, 121; keeps diary of the voyage, + 121; arrives in Los Angeles, 121; serves, later, as member + of the Coleman Vigilance Committee, San Francisco, 55; + admitted to the Bar, 249; as attorney, witnesses killing of + Dorsey by Rubottom, 144; helps organize the first public + library here, 256; partner in Howard, Butterworth & Newmark, + 312; Secretary of Los Angeles Mounted Rifles, 294; City + Attorney, 46; represents H. Newmark & Co., in New York, 359; + member of H. Newmark & Co., 422, 444; indirectly associated + with the founding of Pasadena, 449; marries Miss Sophie + Cahen, 464; early purchaser of land at Santa Monica, 480; + opposes anti-railroad legislation, 489; pioneer in + advertising Los Angeles in the East, 499; retires from H. + Newmark & Co. and removes to San Francisco, 514; on + Committee, Chamber of Commerce (later becoming President), + 625; instrumental in securing the Coronel Collection, 622; + in Europe, 564; returns to Los Angeles, 642; association + with Kaspare Cohn, 642; returns to San Francisco, 642; death + there, 642 + + Newmark (Neumark), Nathan, brother of Harris Newmark, 7 + + Newmark (Neumark), Philip, son of Nathan Newmark, 649 + + Newmark (Neumark), Philip A., nephew of Harris Newmark, 601; + -- & Co., P., 601 + + Newmark, Philip H., son of Harris Newmark, 515 + + Newmark (Neumark), Philipp, native of Neumark, West Prussia, + and father of Harris Newmark, 1, 360; sent, as a boy, to + Napoleon Bonaparte, 1; manufacturer of blacking and ink, 2; + travels in Sweden and Denmark, 2, 621; voyages to New York, + 2; returns to Europe, 2; resumes enterprises in Denmark and + Scandinavia, 3ff.; takes Harris into business, 4; operates, + with son, workshops at Copenhagen and Gothenburg, 6, 7, 649; + consents to lad's departure for California, 7; warns Harris + against strangers, 8; death, 360 + + Newmark, Phineas, son of J. P. Newmark, 559 + + Newmark, Rosa, wife of Joseph Newmark, 122; removes to Los + Angeles, 121, 123; Prime mover in formation of Ladies' + Hebrew Benevolent Society, 409; death of, 482; 464, 637 + + Newmark, Samuel M., son of J. P. Newmark, 559; -- Bros., 559 + + Newmark, Sarah, daughter of Joseph Newmark and wife of + Harris Newmark, arrives here _via_ the Horn, 121; narrow + escape in school catastrophe, 224; engaged to Harris + Newmark, 103; marriage, 224; Vice-President, Ladies' Hebrew + Benevolent Society, 409; celebrates silver wedding, 538; + visits Mexico, 546; tours Europe, 564; keeps diary of the + journey, 565; revisits Europe, 621; celebrates golden + wedding, 636; death, 640; interest in orphans, 643; 106, 195 + + Newmark, Los Angeles County, 555 + + New Mexico, 282, 301, 361, 507, 542 + + New Orleans Exposition, 546 + + New Orleans Shaving Saloon, 137 + + Newport, 494 + + Newport Landing, 506 + + _Newport_, steamboat, 506, 507 + + _News, Evening_, 612, 635 + + _News_, Los Angeles, 283, 306, 315, 316, 317, 350, 370, 380, + 420, 431, 446 + + News, slow transmission of, 93, 211; -- of the War, 305 + + _News Letter_, 339 + + Newspapers, first issues of, 92, 133, 156, 223, 308, 318, + 388, 427, 443, 444, 450, 465, 495, 516, 530, 533, 541, 548, + 557, 559, 584, 626, 642; --, first free advertising, 533; + --, from the East, 235, 256; illustrated --, 627, 642; first + seven-day issues, 557; --, during the Boom, 574ff; --, + during the Civil War, 305, 339, 371 + + New Town (San Pedro), 236, 290 + + New Vernon, 579 + + New Year's, early celebration of, 58, 59 + + New York City, 12, 13, 14, 17, 359, 497; shipment of hides + to, 331 + + _New York Herald_, 497 + + New York Mine, 475 + + _New York Times_, 497 + + Nicaragua, 14, 18, 236, 459 + + Nicaragua Route, 13, 18, 467, 517; --, Lake, 15 + + Nichols, Daniel B., 33, 384 + + Nichols, John Gregg, 32, 33, 35, 36, 105, 115, 205, 218, + 246, 356, 364, 384, 400, 616; Mrs. --, 46 + + Nichols, John Gregg, Jr., 33 + + Nichols' Canyon, 455 + + Nickels, 248 + + _Nido, El_, 473 + + Niedecken, Henry, 508 + + Nieto, Dolores, 51 + + Nieto, Manuel, 180 + + Nietos, _rancho_, Los, 180, 214, 261, 362; town of --, 549; + -- Valley, 413, 577 + + Nigger Alley, 30, 31, 400, 432, 433, 510 + + Nordhoff, Charles, 445, 624; --, town of, 624 + + Nordholt, William, 65, 202, 244; Mrs. --, 202, 245 + + Nordlinger, Louis S., 356 + + Nordlinger, Melville, 356 + + Nordlinger, S., 356; -- & Sons, 356 + + _Normandie_, 564 + + North Beach, San Francisco, 478 + + North Beach, Santa Monica, 612 + + Northcraft, C. L., 483 + + Northcraft, W. H., 483; -- & Clark, 484 + + Norton, Myron, 45, 47, 54, 140; -- Avenue, 48 + + Norton, M., 72 + + Norton, S. B., xvi + + Norway, 336, 621 + + _Novius cardinalis_, 544 + + Noyes, E. W., 349, 484 + + _Nuestra Señora Reyna de los Angeles, La_, 100 + + Nurses, scarcity of trained, 409 + + Nuts, 412 + + + O + + Oak Knoll, 169 + + Oak trees, 126 + + Oath of allegiance, 308, 321 + + Oatman girls, 218 + + O'Brien, Jack, 348 + + O'Brien, Thomas, 386 + + O'Campo, Francisco, 99, 100 + + O'Campo, Tommy, 429 + + Occidental College, 566 + + _Occidental Sketches_, 361 + + _Ocean_, steamer, 308 + + Ocean Park, 603, 627, 645 + + Ocean Spray, 579 + + Odd characters, 253, 277, 527, 528, 610 + + Odd Fellows Lodge No. 35, 49, 149, 355, 402, 624; -- halls, + 300, 513 + + Oden, George N., 394 + + Odontological Society of Southern California, 368 + + Off, J. W. A., 607 + + Offices, 570; furnishing of --, 435, 570 + + Offutt, R. H., 380 + + Ogier, Isaac Stockton Keith, 35, 45, 53, 246; -- Street + (Lane), 54 + + _Ohio_, steamer, 152 + + Oil, 377, 379, 407, 622; -- found in residence district, + 603; -- hair, 138; -- Queen, 603 + + Olden, W. R., 441 + + Old Mission, 54, 150 + + _Old Oaken Bucket, The_, 231 + + Old Settler's Society, 614 + + Oleander, 579 + + Olives and their culture, 92, 212, 302, 412, 472; -- oil, + 302 + + Olive Street, 73, 472 + + Olivewood, 579 + + _Olla-podrida_, 118 + + _Ollas_, 117, 184 + + Olney, Mrs. C. R., 628 + + Olvera, Agustin, 35, 47, 99, 102, 214, 215; -- Street, 99 + + Olvera, Louisa (later Mrs. C. H. Forbes), 214 + + _Olympia_, 436 + + O'Melveny, H. K. S., 285, 403, 426, 441, 466, 493; Mrs. --, + 403 + + O'Melveny, H. W., 403, 476, 578, 614, 626, 648 + + Omnibuses, 389, 397, 402 + + O'Neill, Lillian Nance, 155 + + _On Horseback_, 597 + + Ontario, 516, 579 + + Onteveras, Pacífico, 212 + + Opéra Comique, Paris, 565 + + Ophir Mine, 474 + + Orange, town of, 177, 352 + + Orange County, 177, 594 + + Orange Grove Association, 445, 448 + + Oranges and orange groves, 211, 212, 286, 352, 382, 391, + 412, 448, 532, 576, 578; orange trees brought from + Nicaragua, 459; first navel oranges, 451, 625; device for + picking oranges, 265 + + Orchards, 28, 112, 162, 573, 578 + + Ord, E. O. C., 33, 34, 112, 336; -- Survey, 334 + + O'Reilly, James, 475 + + O'Reilly, John Boyle, 605 + + Oriental Restaurant, 491 + + Oriental Stage Co., 417 + + _Oriflamme_, 346 + + _Orizaba_, 376, 381, 397, 398, 405, 465 + + Orme, Henry S., 371, 423, 614 + + Ormsby, J. S., 130 + + Ormsby, W. L., 234 + + _Oropel_, 136 + + Orphans, homes for, 190, 643 + + Ortega, Émile C., 87 + + Ortiz, Miguel, 272 + + Osborn, John, 373 + + Osborn, William, 386, 387 + + Osborne, H. Z., 543, 607 + + Osburn, William B., 94, 107, 108, 109, 138, 155, 192, 194 + + Osgoodby, George, 590 + + Ostriches, 547; the Ostrich Farm, 547 + + Otaheite, 254 + + _Othello_, 588 + + Otis, Harrison Gray, 468, 533, 555, 556, 557, 589, 607, 616, + 626; Mrs. --, 617 + + Otter hunting, 170 + + _Our Italy_, 597 + + _Out of Doors California and Oregon_, 476 + + "Out of town," 32, 105 + + _Out West Magazine_, 542, 646 + + Overland Mail, 259, 301, 375; -- Co., 234; -- Route, 234, + 242, 271, 294; -- staging, 91, 234, 267 + + Overman & Caledonia mines, 477 + + Overstreet, Dr., 107 + + Owens, Bob, 138; Mrs. (Aunt Winnie), 138 + + Owens Lake, cleansing properties of, 387 + + Owens, Madison T., 607 + + Owens River and country, 375, 385ff.; -- Aqueduct, 50, 545; + -- Mines, 322, 385ff.; -- Valley, 440 + + Oxarart, Gaston, 310; -- Block, 513 + + Oxnard, Henry T., 598; --, town of, 599 + + Oxnard, Robert, 598 + + Ox-teams, 201, 233 + + Oyharzabel, Domingo, 549 + + Oysters, 279 + + + P + + _Pacific_, 336, 346, 465 + + Pacific & Atlantic Telegraph Co., 283 + + Pacific Coast compared to other countries, 398 + + Pacific Electric Building, 620 + + Pacific Light and Power Co., 515 + + Pacific Mail Steamship Co., 465, 486 + + Pacific Railway Expedition, 364; --'s view of Los Angeles, + 364 + + Packard, Albert, 168 + + Packard, T. T., 500 + + Packet Service, Coast, 152, 153, 237 + + Pack-trains, 272 + + Padilla, Juan N., 32, 244; -- Building, 57 + + _Padres_ (see Mission Fathers) + + _Paisano_, 159 + + Palace Saloon, 455 + + Palacio, El, 223 + + Palmas, Dos, 414 + + Palmer, Joseph C., 272 + + Palomares, Ygnácio, 174, 179; --, town of, 578 + + Palos Verdes _rancho_, 71, 182, 357, 581 + + Panamá Canal, 236, 651; -- Route and travel, 13, 46, 142, + 305, 315, 359, 532, 623; -- hat, 158, 159; --, Kern County, + 453 + + Panamint, 387, 479 + + _Pan de huevos_, 134 + + Panic following prosperity, 478 + + _Panocha_, 134 + + Paper, local manufacture of, 384 + + Pardee, George C., 631 + + Paris, 67, 360, 450, 564; --, Commune, 491; --, Exposition, + 1855, 164; --, Exposition, 1867, 360 + + Paris Exposition Circus, 381 + + Parish, E. C., 92 + + _Parisian_, 381 + + Parker House, San Francisco, 22 + + Parker, E. S., 512 + + Parkman, Francis, xii + + Parks, 97, 388, 417, 539, 557, 614, 643 + + Parnell mines, 475 + + Parris, Willis, 483 + + Parrott, Dr., 200 + + Parson, A. C., 630 + + Parson, A. M., 630 + + Pasadena, 178, 238, 316, 337, 445, 557, 576, 578, 579, 585, + 586, 592, 599, 601, 613; --, Colony and Settlement, 50, 532; + --, origin of name, 448; South --, 586; -- Railroad, 563 + + Paso de Águila, El, 82 + + Paso de Robles, 329, 496 + + Paso, El, 546 + + Passports, 163, 315 + + _Pastores, Los_, 102 + + Pastrymen, 288 + + Patagonia Copper Mining Co., 276 + + Patents to lands, 146, 166, 172, 173, 174, 179, 182, 244, + 275, 509 + + _Patios_, 113, 135 + + Patrick, M. S., 472 + + Pattee, Frank A., 646 + + Patterson, W. C., 607, 626 + + Patti, Adelina, 590, 607 + + Patton, George S. and Mrs., 363 + + Patton, George S., Jr., 363, 568; Mrs. --, 363 + + Patton, Harry, 612 + + Paul, C. T., 516 + + Paulding, Joseph, 261 + + Pavements, 519, 561, 584 + + Pawnbrokers, 221 + + Payne, Henry T., 465, 499, 557 + + Paynter, J. W., 427 + + Peach and honey, 40 + + _Peachbrand_, chewing tobacco, 253 + + Pearl Street, 231, 362, 461, 559 + + Pease, 126 + + Pease, Niles, 607, 634 + + Peck, George H., 452, 453 + + _Pedro_, game of, 230 + + Pedro, the Indian, 124 + + Peel. B. L., 425, 436; -- & Co., B. L., 425 + + Pekin Curio Store, 232 + + Pellissier, Germain, 362 + + Penelon, Henri, 82, 293 + + Pennies, 248, 511 + + Peoples, Superintendent, 415 + + People's Store, 530 + + Pepper trees, 97, 291 + + Pepys, Samuel xi; -- Diary, xiii + + Perry, Everett R., 639 + + _Perry, Lewis_, 237, 276 + + Perry, Mamie (Perry-Davis, later Mrs. Modini Wood), 528, 529 + + Perry, W. H., 66, 81, 162, 317, 349, 366, 428, 521, 528, + 543, 636; Mrs. --, 66, 162, 528; -- & Co., 81; -- & + Woodworth, 81, 82, 127, 412 + + Persimmon tree, 163 + + Peru, 71, 120, 162, 389, 542 + + _Pescadero_, 127 + + Pesthouse, 118 + + Peter, Father, 553 + + Petroleum, 459 + + Petsch, A., 607 + + Peyton, Valentine, 604 + + Pflugardt, George W., 206 + + Phæton, first here, 511 + + Phelps, E. C., 405 + + Philadelphia, 497; -- Brewery, 197, 500; --, Centennial at, + 497; --Oil Co., 170; -- & California Oil Co., 302 + + Philbin, John, 248, 249 + + "Philip's Best" beer, 231 + + Philippines, 616 + + Philippi, Jake, 230 + + Phillips, Louis, 89, 531; -- Block, 115, 530; 161, 330, 421; + Mrs. --, 89 + + Photographers, 82, 293, 364, 465; wet-plate --, 365 + + Physical culture, first, 273 + + Physicians, 26, 58, 92, 94, 99, 106, 107ff., 193, 227, 237, + 245, 322, 389, 423, 548, 589, 593, 598, 641, 648 + + Pianos, 376 + + _Pianos and their Makers_, 628 + + Picayune, 192 + + Picher, Anna B., 622, 628 + + Picnics, 132, 397, 401, 429 + + Pico, Andrés, 38, 92, 99, 135, 172, 173, 178, 179, 180, 190, + 208, 214, 381, 400, 441, 488, 493; -- ranches, 179 + + Pico, António María, 297 + + Pico, Jesus, 178 + + Pico, Pio, 27, 98, 99, 102, 160, 170, 173, 177, 179, 180, + 293, 294, 297, 332, 400, 471, 531, 608; -- Crossing, 180; -- + Heights, 609; --House, 98, 180, 186, 396, 431, 469, 488, + 491, 500, 516, 518; --ranches, 180; -- Spring, 346; -- + Street, 73, 125 + + Pico, Ysidora, 173 + + Pierce, Edward T., 532 + + Pierce, Franklin, 65, 121 + + Pierce, H. A., 121 + + Pierce, N. & Co., 152 + + Pigeon messengers, 430 + + Pig lead, 387 + + Pike, George H., 590 + + _Pilgrim_, brig, 226 + + _Pilon_, 77 + + _Pinafore_, 547 + + Pinikahti, 277, 278 + + Pinney Block, 192 + + _Pinole_, 134 + + Pintoresca, 586 + + Pioneer Oil Co., 346 + + Pioneer Race Course, 303 + + Pioneers, banquet to, 630; neglected duty of --, vii; early + proposed society of --, 561; -- first as tourists, 353 + + Pioneers of Southern California, Los Angeles County, 239, + 614 + + Pipes, clay and brier, 253 + + Pipes, iron, 365, 377, 384, 445; -- wooden, 350, 366 + + Pitch-roofs, 114 + + Piteå, 4 + + Pi-Utes, 275 + + Pixley, Frank, 525 + + Plains, continental, 71, 77, 82, 304, 403; local + significance of, 276 + + Planters Hotel, Anaheim, 643 + + Plater, John E., 467, 607 + + Playa del Rey, 125, 459, 490 + + Plaza, 30, 31, 47, 66, 97, 98, 99, 100, 101, 106, 107, 112, + 115, 149, 210, 224, 232, 254, 262, 272, 281, 285, 294, 296, + 300, 381, 385, 388, 417, 418, 461, 488, 511, 518, 535, 557; + -- water tank, 211, 388, 418 + + Plaza Church, 82, 97, 100, 101, 112, 114, 258, 293, 628; --, + repairing of, 293 + + Plaza Hotel, San Juan Bautista, 270 + + Plaza, San Francisco, 21, 98 + + Pleasant Valley, 496 + + Pleasants, J. E., 106, 126, 127, 171, 326, 413, 494 + + Ploennies, Otto von, 499 + + Plows, iron and steel, 357 + + Plumbers' tools, brought from San Francisco, 384 + + Plunger, luck of a, 333 + + _Pocahontas_, gunboat, 350 + + Poe, Edgar Allan, 101 + + Poker playing, 55, 154 + + Polaski, Isidor, 70 + + Polaski, Louis, 70; -- & Goodwin, 70; -- & Sons, 70 + + Polaski, Myer L., 70 + + Polaski, Samuel, 70; -- Bros., 70 + + Polhamus, A. A., 384, 393 + + Police, first chief of, 510; lack of --, 333; poor -- + protection, 487 + + Politeness, accident due to excessive, 419 + + Political celebrations, 268; -- gatherings, 40, 282, 511 + + Pollitz, Edward, 230 + + Pollock, merchant, 70; -- & Goodwin, 70 + + Polonia, 253 + + Pomegranates, 126 + + Pomona, 330, 576; -- Valley, 578 + + Pond, Edward B., 598 + + Ponet, Victor, 382 + + Pony Express, 245, 264, 291, 294, 373 + + Population of Los Angeles, 25, 266, 271, 528, 567 + + Porches, 113 + + _Porcupine_, 57 + + Portable houses, 203 + + Port Ballona, 579; -- Harford, 346; -- Los Angeles, 468; -- + San Carlos, 16; -- San Luis, 152 + + Porter, David Dixon, 222 + + Porter, F. B., 459 + + Porter, George K., 459 + + Porter, murder of, 35 + + Porterfield, W. H., 610 + + Portius, Dr., 599 + + Portland, Oregon, 373 + + Portolá, Gaspar de, 627 + + Portugal, Adolph, 244, 248, 311, 346 + + Portuguese Bend, 581 + + _Posse_, Sheriff's, 206, 348, 455, 457, 471; -- _comitatus_, + 324, 433 + + Postage stamps, sale of, 431; --, scarcity of, 410 + + Post, delay of, 93, 147, 264 + + Postmasters, remuneration of early, 380, 449 + + Post Office, 66, 94, 231, 291, 349, 354, 372, 380, 410, 514, + 560, 604, 630 + + Potatoes, 331 + + Potomac Block, 115 + + Potrero Grande, 181 + + Potter, Nehemiah A., 203, 218, 246; -- & Co., 219 + + Potter, O. W., 405 + + Potts, J. Wesley, 61, 126 + + Poulterer, De Ro & Eldridge, 281 + + Pound Cake Hill, 301, 374, 452 + + Powers, Ethel, 645 + + Powers, L. M., 634 + + Prager, Charles, 104, 180, 383 + + Prager, Sam, 104, 105, 314, 383 + + Prairie schooners, 201, 345, 414 + + Prentice, B. H., xvi + + Presbyterians, 566 + + Prescott, 415, 416 + + President of the United States, gift to, 219 + + Prentiss, Samuel, 238 + + Preuss, Edward, 409; Mrs. --, 39; -- & Pironi, 363 + + Prévost, Louis, 390 + + Price, Burr, xvi + + Prices of commodities, early, 345 + + Prickly pear, 126 + + _Pride of the Sea_, clipper-brig, 237 + + Pridham, George, 405, 481 + + Pridham, R. W., 606, 607, 611 + + Pridham, William, 106, 373, 374, 481; Mrs. --, 373; -- + Block, 192 + + Principal, Calle, 31 + + Prisoners on public works, 286 + + Pro-Cathedral, Episcopal, 301 + + Processions, 101, 254, 296, 338, 442, 499, 528, 529, 606 + + _Progrès, le_, 541 + + Progressive Party, 639, 642 + + Prohibition, convention, 13; first -- community, 340 + + Promontory Point, Utah, 388 + + Property, low valuations of, 37, 220, 379, 572 + + Protestants and the Protestant Church, 102, 103, 208, 246, + 313, 314, 516 + + _Providencia_, locomotive, 592 + + Providencia _rancho_, 74, 578 + + Provincial life in the late sixties, 377 + + Prudhomme (Prudhon), L. Victor, 62, 427 + + Pryor, Charles, 293 + + Pryor, Lottie, 293 + + Pryor (Prior), Nathaniel (Miguel N.), 292, 293; Mrs. --, + first wife, 293; Mrs. --, second wife, 293 + + Pryor, Nathaniel, Jr., 293 + + Pryor, Pablo, 293 + + Pueblo-like life of the early sixties, 266 + + Puente, la, 475, 494, 520; -- Creek, 471; -- Mills, 470; -- + oil, 172, 377; -- _rancho_, 87, 172, 242, 377 + + Puerto San Miguel, Barcelona, 490 + + Pursuits, humble, 79 + + Pyle, B. W., 235, 236 + + + Q + + Quakers, 449, 576 + + Quartermaster, U. S. A., 246, 265, 297 + + Queen City, proposed town of, 318 + + Queen & Gard, 370 + + _Queen of the Pacific_, steamship, 602 + + Quimby, C. H., xvi + + Quinces, 126 + + + R + + Race track, 462 + + Raffles, 385 + + Raho, Padre Blas, 293 + + Railroads, 331, 352, 363, 370, 373, 380, 402, 423, 430, 440, + 452, 486, 507, 556, 562, 581, 583, 604, 614, 630; accidents, + 536, 583; affected by steamers, 404; Railroad Commission, + 620; excursions, 393, 394, 404, 430, 442, 485, 525; first + fight against the -- companies, 506, 507; locomotives, 376, + 380, 397, 402; first one built here, 592; war between --s, + 556, 570; San Pedro -- (see Los Angeles & San Pedro R. R.); + opposition to --s, 354, 441; private cars, 487; Seward's + prediction as to --s, 399 + + Raimond, R. E., 283 + + Rainfall, effect and importance of, 34, 215, 309, 329, 360, + 380; rains, 241, 289, 328, 329, 487, 541 + + Rains, Fannie V., 617 + + Rains, John, 197, 302, 326, 348, 617; Mrs. --, 168 + + Raisins, 412 + + Ralphs, George A., 550; Mrs. --, 550; -- & Francis Grocery, + 550; --Grocery Co., 550 + + Ralston, W. C., 477, 478 + + Ramirez, Andrés, 63 + + Ramirez, B. F., 443 + + Ramirez, Francisco P., 156, 333, 493 + + Ramirez, town of, 575 + + _Ramona_, 41, 102, 445, 520, 531 + + _Rancherias_, 176, 520 + + Ranch stores, 175 + + _Ranchito_, 98, 470 + + _Ranchos_ and _rancheros_, 84, 110, 166ff., 175, 181, 214, + 242, 313, 329, 332, 340, 344, 421; ranch fences, 167, 274; + Spanish ranch houses, 167 + + _Ranger, Reminiscences of a_, 58 + + Rangers, 35, 53, 58, 74, 83, 99, 139, 147, 207, 221 + + Rankin, Collector, 306 + + Rapp, William, 480 + + Rate war, 556, 557 + + Rattlesnakes, 415 + + Rattlesnake Island, 174, 268, 426, 601 + + Ravenna, Manuel, 233, 234, 475 + + Ravenna, town of, 475 + + Rawson, A. M., 619 + + Raymond, 576, 578, 579; -- Hotel, 576, 586 + + Real Castillo, 424 + + _Real Estate Advertiser_, 370 + + Real estate, 232, 332, 333, 362, 401, 513, 522, 569ff., + 583; leap frog with --, 536; sudden advances in --, 570 + + Realty agents, first, 401 + + _Reata_, 34, 85, 92, 150, 333 + + Reaume, Captain, 381 + + Rebbick, Lydia, 250 + + _Rebozos_, 66, 158 + + _Record, Los Angeles_, 610 + + Records, Edward, 557 + + Redlands, 176, 591 + + Redondo, boom at, 631, 632; -- Salt Works, 133, 492 + + Red Rock, 387 + + Redwood, 230 + + Reed, Henry, 316 + + Reed, maniac, 220 + + Reed, Thomas Brackett, 614 + + Reese, Michael, 329, 520 + + Refreshments, 184 + + Refrigerator cars, 623 + + Registration of 1869 voters, 401 + + Reid, Hugo, 89, 107; Mrs. --, 165; --, library of, 47 + + Reid, Templeton, 130 + + Religious services held in courts, 314, 339 + + Rendall, Stephen A., 364 + + Repetto, Alessandro, 421, 454, 458, 552ff.; -- _rancho_, + 450, 552, 555; --'s brother, 553ff. + + _Republican, Evening_, 495, 533 + + Republicans, 91, 285, 296, 323, 639; "black" --, 240 + + Requena, Manuel, 38, 105, 190, 219, 253; -- Street, 32, 38 + + Restaurant life, early, 27, 369, 490; outdoor restaurants, + 340 + + Reward unpaid by L. A. County, 425 + + Reyes, Pablo, 202 + + Reyes, Ysidro, 202 + + Reynolds, C. C., 619, 635, 637 + + Reynolds, J. J., 389, 397, 417, 429 + + Rhea, Mlle., 543 + + Rheim, Philip (Felipe), 58, 59, 64 + + Rice, 329 + + Rice, George D., 612 + + Rice, Mr., 502 + + Rich, B. B., xvi + + Rich, Jacob, 19, 21, 23, 24, 32, 60, 61, 118, 189; Mrs. --, + first Jewess to settle here, 60, 61, 104; -- Bros., 12; -- & + Laventhal, 189; --, Newmark & Co., 146 + + Richards, C. N. & Co., 133 + + Richland, 352 + + Rico, Mr. and Mrs., 181 + + Riis, Jacob A., 642 + + Riley, Frank, 262 + + Rinaldi, C. R., 377 + + Rincon de los Bueyes, 460 + + Rincon _rancho_, 74 + + Rio Colorado, U. S. Surveying Expedition to, 183 + + Rio Grande, 222, 232 + + _Rise and Fall of the Mustache, The_, 588 + + Ritchie, William, 320 + + Rivara, Dominico, 550 + + Rivera, 180, 577 + + Riverside, 175, 391, 451 + + River Station, 531 + + Robarts, John, 535, 554ff. + + Robert, Dent H., 626 + + Robidoux Hill, 175 + + Robidoux, Louis, 64, 174, 176, 177, 374, 391; Señora --, + 175; --Mount, 175; -- _rancho_, 391; --, spelling of name, + 176 + + Robinson, Edward I., xvi + + Robinson, J. C., 594, 595 + + Robinson, J. W., 536; -- Co., 513; -- Dry Goods Co., 536 + + Robinson, W. W., 587 + + Rocha, A. J., 37 + + Rocha, Jacinto, 174 + + Rock-fish, 127 + + Rocky Mountain Circus, Bartholomew's, 262 + + Rodeos, 182, 242 + + Rodgers, Walter E., 455 + + Roeder, Louis, 153, 154, 239, 267; -- Block, 267 + + Rogers, Ralph, 568 + + Rojo, Manuel Clemente, 53, 54, 56 + + Roller-skating, 426 + + Roman Catholics (see under Catholics) + + Rome, 398 + + Romero, Guadalupe, 226 + + Roofs, of tar, 114; --, tiled, 114; --, weighted with + stones, 336 + + Roosevelt, Theodore, 625, 629 + + Roosters, game, 162 + + Rosa, José de la, 93 + + Rose, Annie Wilhelmina, 403 + + Rose, L. J., 43, 200, 285, 286, 403, 421, 426, 427, 439, + 441, 472, 483, 578, 584, 585, 589, 592; Mrs. (Amanda) --, + 578; Rose Meade, 592 + + Rose, Truman H., 389, 390, 419, 452; Mrs. --, 390 + + Rosecrans, William Starke, 33, 382, 397; --, town of, 579 + + Rosedale, 609; -- Cemetery, 548, 567 + + Rose Tournament at Pasadena, first, 592 + + Roses, imported from the East, 139 + + Ross, Erskine Mayo, 230, 488, 565, 607 + + Ross, W. G., 150 + + Round House, 41, 64, 126, 192, 259, 272, 273, 428, 499, 522, + 585; --George, 193, 463 + + Rouse, W. J., xvi + + Row, The, 61, 351 + + Rowan, George D., 510 + + Rowan, James, 191 + + Rowan, P. D., 511 + + Rowan, R. A., 511; -- & Co., 511 + + Rowan, Thomas E., 191, 269, 383, 405, 446, 552, 606; Mrs. + --, 191; --Avenue, 191; -- Street, 191 + + Rowland, John, 87, 91, 106, 172, 211, 421, 494; Mrs. --, 91 + + Rowland, Nieves, 172 + + Rowland, William (Billy), 172, 377, 454, 455, 458, 532 + + Royere, Paul P., xii + + Rúbio, José de, 23, 201, 202; Señora --, 202, 609; Rúbio's, + 202 + + Rubottom, Ezekiel, 91, 144 + + Rubottom, William (Uncle Billy), 91, 144 + + Rugby School, 422 + + Rule, Ferdinand K., 597, 607, 625 + + Rumph, John and Frau, 402 + + Russ Garden, San Francisco, 275 + + _Russia_, steamship, 360 + + Ryan, Andrew W., 495 + + Ryan, F. G., 603 + + Rydall, E. H., 547 + + + S + + Sabichi, Frank, 171, 607 + + Sabichi, Josefa Franco, 171 + + Sabichi, Mateo, 171 + + Sabine Pass, 350 + + Sachs & Co., L. & M., 381 + + Sackett & Morgan, 346 + + Sackett, Russell, 36 + + Sackville-West, Lord, 590 + + Sacramento, 260, 389, 403, 453, 496, 562 + + Saddle-horses, 157 + + Saddles and saddlery, 74, 82, 85, 110, 111, 132, 157, 159, + 291, 383, 473, 528 + + Saeger, J., 619 + + Safes, for valuables and money, 129, 343, 487 + + _Saginaw_, steamer, 341 + + Sailing vessels, 237, 290, 345; from and to the Atlantic, + 151, 331. (See also under Cape Horn) + + Sainsevain, Jean Louis, 132, 163, 197, 198, 239, 254, 265, + 273, 300, 350, 365, 366, 369, 592; -- Bros., 199; -- Street, + 199; -- Vineyard, 198 + + Sainsevain, Louis, xvi + + Sainsevain, Michel, 199 + + Sainsevain, Paul, 199 + + Sainsevain, Pierre, 198, 199, 265 + + St. Athanasius Church, 301 + + St. Charles Hotel, 469, 514 + + St. Elmo Hotel, 252, 469, 525, 613 + + St. George d'Oléron, France, 281 + + St. James, 579 + + St. Louis, 416 + + St. Paul's School, 340 + + St. Valentine's Day, 46, 296 + + St. Vincent's College, 232, 341 + + Salaberri, Juan, 549; -- & Co., J., 549 + + Salandie, Mme., 78 + + Salesmen, traveling, 521 + + Salinas City, 497 + + Saloons, 21, 29, 30, 31, 39, 59, 64, 134, 149, 209, 230, + 347, 405, 480, 570; --, synonym for shops, 137, 396 + + Salsido, Vicente, 114 + + Salt Lake City, 66, 74, 155, 187, 233, 248, 304, 345, 351, + 498; --, Great, 187; --, trade with, 187, 290 + + Salt Lake Express, Great, 155 + + Salt Lake Route, 82 + + Salt, Liverpool, 557 + + Samsbury, Stephen, 424 + + San António _rancho_, 174, 220, 263 + + San Bernardino, 71, 74, 88, 90, 150, 155, 165, 187, 198, + 207, 233, 234, 242, 287, 312, 313, 323, 337, 366, 411, 414, + 415, 549; -- County, 87, 281, 426 + + San Bernardino Mountains, 350, 370; --, ice from, 191, 247, + 370 + + San Bernardino _rancho_, 263 + + San Buenaventura, 153, 209, 246, 298, 395, 496 + + San Carlos, Port, 16 + + San Clemente Island, 216 + + San Diego, 28, 67, 71, 152, 160, 207, 397, 398, 411, 418, + 472, 589, 633; --, Old Town, 153, 367; -- County, 426, 531 + + San Diego, 520, 589, 633 + + San Diego & Gila River Railroad, 382 + + San Dimas, 578, 579 + + San Feliciano Cañon, 95 + + San Fernando, 386, 459, 496, 516, 579; -- Farm Association, + 381 + + San Fernando Mission, 92, 120, 196, 459 + + San Fernando Mountains, 321, 323, 385, 459, 502 + + San Fernando placers, 313 + + San Fernando ranches, 179, 180, 381, 459 + + San Fernando Street, 63, 160, 493; -- railroad station, 211 + + San Fernando tunnel, 323, 386, 459, 496, 502; --, declared + impossible, 503; --, inauguration of, 504 + + San Fernando Valley, 275, 531; -- and bears, 447 + + San Francisco, 19ff., 39, 71, 73, 120, 152, 153, 160, 199, + 211, 216, 233, 240, 242, 260, 283, 284, 294, 296, 322, 325, + 359, 397, 401, 411, 417, 453, 497, 504; -- compared with Los + Angeles, 582; --, dependence of Los Angeles on, 73, 152, + 305, 311, 313, 332, 384, 405, 406, 410, 438; theatrical + talent from --, 286, 381, 422; -- earthquake and fire, 633 + ff., 636; relief furnished -- by Los Angeles, 634; --, first + three-story building there, 610; -- Grand Opera House, 560; + lead shipped to --, 388; -- Dock & Wharf Co., 269; -- + _rancho_, 40, 120; --& San José Valley Railroad, 393; -- as + a standard of comparison, 491 + + San Francisquito Cañon, 95; -- Ranch, 170, 174 + + San Gabriel, 50, 54, 71, 87, 89, 90, 106, 107, 126, 161, + 165, 199, 208, 376, 384, 386, 579; -- Cañon, 95; locomotive, + 376 + + San Gabriel Electric Co., 515 + + San Gabriel Mission, 55, 88, 102, 171, 199, 200, 255, 286, + 493, 501 + + San Gabriel Mountains, 179 + + San Gabriel placers, 313 + + San Gabriel River, 91, 180, 257, 471; New --, 406 + + San Gabriel, sheep at, 216 + + San Gabriel Valley, 90, 91, 107, 168, 374, 531, 576 + + San Gabriel Wine Co., 302 + + San Jacinto and Valley, 374, 620 + + San Joaquín Ranch, 181, 206 + + San Joaquín Valley, 440; -- rate case, 619, 620 + + San José, 153, 234, 357, 453, 458, 497 + + San José _rancho_, 144, 174, 178, 179, 476 + + San Juan Bautista, 270 + + San Juan Cajón de Santa Ana, 166 + + San Juan Capistrano, 157, 181; Don San Juan and Don San Juan + Capistrano, 173; -- Mission, 92, 206, 207, 254, 326 + + San Juan de Fuca, 346 + + San Juan del Norte, 14, 15, 18 + + San Juan del Sur, 16, 17, 18 + + San Juan River, 15 + + San Luis Obispo, 22, 48, 153, 178, 188, 246, 496; -- County, + 246, 447 + + _San Luis_, 465 + + San Pasqual _rancho_, 36, 178, 237, 316, 346, 412, 448 + + San Pedro, 22, 23, 24, 27, 48, 68, 74, 127, 152, 155, 156, + 170, 173, 188, 197, 199, 202, 205, 227, 236, 245, 250, 274, + 276, 290, 301, 302, 306, 308, 346, 359, 380, 395, 404, 424, + 427, 460, 468, 522, 637, 638 + + San Pedro Harbor, 174, 268, 290, 320, 404, 426, 450, 468, + 581, 617, 618; -- fight, 617 + + San Pedro, journey by foot from, 68, 149 + + San Pedro, Los Angeles & Salt Lake Railroad, 341, 535, 630 + + San Pedro, New, 236, 250, 290, 302, 307, 317, 321 + + San Pedro New Town, 236, 290, 307 + + San Pedro Railroad (see under Los Angeles) + + San Pedro, _rancho de_, 173, 340 + + San Pedro Street, 25, 160, 200, 202, 335, 459; -- Railway, + 487, 488 + + San Pedro Wharf, 568 + + San Quentin Prison, 206, 326 + + San Rafael Ranch, 178, 214; -- Heights, 646 + + San Timoteo Cañon, 591 + + San Vicente _rancho_, 143, 181, 479, 586 + + Sanchez, Francisco, 181 + + Sanchez Hall, 99 + + Sanchez, Juan Matías, 181, 421, 478 + + Sanchez, Pedro, 183 + + Sanchez, Tomás A., 43, 99, 275, 324, 326, 344 + + Sanchez, Vicente, 99, 114, 294; -- Street, 99, 293 + + _Sandía_, 126 + + Sandwich Islands, 93, 156, 320, 390 + + Sandy Hook, 12 + + Sanford, E. M., 362, 403 + + Sanford, John, 327 + + Sanford, Rebecca, 327 + + Sanford, W. T. B., 105, 187, 320, 327; Mrs. --, 320 + + Sanford, Mr., 217 + + Sangiovanni, A. Bergamo, 528 + + Sanitary Commission, U. S., and San Francisco 325; -- and + Los Angeles, 326 + + Sanitation, primitive, 119 + + Sansome Street, San Francisco, 22 + + Santa Ana, 166, 177, 401, 576, 594; -- River, 212, 348, 391, + 406; --, new channel, 541 + + Santa Anita, 578; -- Mining Co., 241; -- placers, 313; -- + _rancho_, 170, 244, 439, 449, 474, 526 + + Santa Bárbara, 22, 48, 108, 152, 153, 244, 246, 399, 411, + 436, 496, 583; -- Channel, 216; -- County, 108, 426; --, + road to, 246 + + Santa Catalina Island, 15, 89, 216, 238, 318, 333, 407, 430, + 522, 568, 624; 1859 excursion to --, 250ff.; proposed + harbor of --, 581; --Co., 568 + + Santa Clara River, 40 + + Santa Cruz Island, 216 + + Santa Cruz, Mariano G., 162, 458, 549 + + Santa Fé Railroad (see Atchison, Topeka & Santa Fé) + + Santa Fé, town of, 63, 83, 187 + + Santa Gertrudis _rancho_, 180, 340, 362 + + Santa Margarita _rancho_, 173, 180, 332, 531 + + Santa Monica, 231, 429, 460, 465, 466, 468, 479ff., 485 + ff., 490, 568, 569, 580, 581, 603, 621; advertising --, 486, + 580; sale of first lots at --, 479, 480; gravity railroad, + 569; opposition of Southern Pacific Railroad to --, 521; -- + Cañon, 401, 429; -- hotels, 479, 488, 568; -- Land Co., 486, + 488, 586; --, South, 488 + + _Santa Monica_, palace car, 487 + + Santiago Cañon, 127, 207, 494 + + _Sarah Gamp_, 250 + + Saratoga mineral waters, 363 + + _Sarco_, race horse, 160 + + Sartori, Joseph F., 143 + + Saunders & Co., J. B., 371 + + Sausal Redondo, 382 + + _Savannah_, war-ship, 182 + + Savarie J., 527 + + Savarots, J. B., 549 + + Sawmill, first, 81 + + Sawtelle, 586 + + Saxe, H. K., 355 + + Saxon, Thomas A., 501 + + Scale, fluted, 544 + + Schaeffer, Henry C. G., 147, 299 + + Scheller, L. C., 619, 635, 637 + + Schieck, Dan and Mrs., 117 + + Schieffelin, Charles L., 396 + + Schiff, Ludwig, xvi + + Schiller, Johann Christoph Friedrich, 119 + + Schlesinger, Herman, 75, 177; -- & Sherwinsky, 76, 177 + + Schlesinger, Jacob, 350, 471 + + Schlesinger, Louis, 320, 329 + + Schlesinger, Moritz, 75, 76, 350 + + Schliemann, Heinrich, 20 + + Schloss, Benjamin, 290 + + Schmitt, H., 491 + + Schneider, J. M., 536, 638 + + Scholle Bros., 381 + + _School for Scandal_, 543 + + School teachers, 163, 402 + + Schools, 54, 105ff., 156, 190, 211, 262, 308, 321, 341, + 354, 355, 356, 390, 419, 453, 494, 526, 533, 547, 610, 625, + 626, 642; --, lack of public money for, 257; -- closed for + want of money, 211; dirty --, 262; private --, 106, 225, + 257, 341, 494, 563, 622; -- and sectarianism, 269; sewing in + --, 547. (See also under Teachers) + + Schooners, coastwise freight, 65, 152, 170, 237, 276, 290, + 331 + + Schreiber, Emanuel, 608 + + Schreiber, W. G., 607 + + Schulze, A. W., 303 + + Schumacher, Frank G., 39 + + Schumacher, John, 39, 40, 64, 85, 200, 356, 376, 419, 500; + Mrs. --, 39, 40; -- Building, 39, 40 + + Schumacher, John, Jr., 39, 607 + + Schurz, Carl, 406 + + Schwabenverein, 584 + + Schwarz, Louis, 230 + + Schwed, Max, 549 + + Sciscisch, Lucas, 550 + + Scott Exclusion Act, 468 + + Scott, Frankie, 355 + + Scott, Hattie, 355 + + Scott, Jonathan R., 45, 46, 53, 87, 139, 176, 209, 355, 356; + Mrs. --, 46 + + Scott, J. R., Jr., 46 + + Scott, J. W., 568 + + Scott, Joseph, 469, 605, 626, 638, 647 + + Scott, P. M., 587 + + Scott & Co., E. L., 153 + + Scotti, 553ff. + + Scripps, E. W., 610 + + Scully, Thomas J., 610 + + _Sea Bird_, steamer, 152, 181, 204, 205 + + Seabury, Mr., 519 + + Sea-captains, 10, 11, 12, 22, 46, 65, 66, 121, 152, 153, + 154, 226, 251, 276, 308, 311, 312, 320, 352, 359; brutality + of --, 352 + + _Sea Eagle_, brig, 610 + + Search, P. W., 607 + + Searles, Moses, 94 + + _Sea Serpent_, schooner, 152 + + Seattle, 602 + + Second Street, 419, 477, 518, 563, 570 + + Security of property on the desert, 387 + + Security Trust and Savings Bank, 358, 631 + + Sedgwick, Thomas, 397 + + Seeley, Thomas W., 154, 312, 320 + + Seligman, Carl, 517, 549 + + _Semi-Tropical California_, 361 + + _Semi-Weekly Southern News_ (see under _News_) + + _Senator_, steamer, 153, 154, 210, 264, 285, 290, 300, 306, + 312, 320, 326, 336, 465 + + Sentous, Jean, 78; -- Street, 78 + + Sentous, Louis, 78 + + Sentous, Louis, Jr., 78 + + Sepúlveda, Andrónico, 181 + + Sepúlveda, Ascención, 181, 309 + + Sepúlveda, Bernabé, 181 + + Sepúlveda, Diego, 87, 181 + + Sepúlveda, Dolores, 181 + + Sepúlveda, Fernando, 181, 262 + + Sepúlveda, Francisca Ábila, 309 + + Sepúlveda, Francisca, 100, 181 + + Sepúlveda, J., 120 + + Sepúlveda, Joaquín, 181 + + Sepúlveda, José Andrés, 57, 97, 104, 160, 181, 206, 210, + 309; Señora --, 160; -- Avenue, 57 + + Sepúlveda, José del Carmen, 181 + + Sepúlveda, José Loreto, 71, 181 + + Sepúlveda, Juan, 35, 181 + + Sepúlveda, Juan María, 181 + + Sepúlveda Landing, 202 + + Sepúlveda, Maurício, 181 + + Sepúlveda, Miguel, 181 + + Sepúlveda, Petra Pilar, 71 + + Sepúlveda, Ramona, 181 + + Sepúlveda, R. D., xvi + + Sepúlveda, Tomása, 181 + + Sepúlveda, Tranquilina, 181 + + Sepúlveda, Ygnácio, 57, 181, 314, 420, 424, 443, 489, 519, + 546; Mrs. --, 546 + + Sequoya League, 542 + + _Serapes_, 66, 158 + + Serenades, 184, 467 + + Serra, Junípero, 88, 627 + + Serrano, José, 199 + + Servants, Chinese, 123; Indian --, 124; --, San Francisco + agency for, 313 + + Seventh Infantry Band, 579 + + Seventh Street, 472, 535 + + Severance, Caroline, 473, 566 + + Severy, Calvin Luther, xvi + + Severy, Luther, 549 + + Seward, Frederick and Mrs., 397 + + Seward, William Henry, 49, 339, 397ff., 440 + + Sewers, 265, 469, 472 + + Sexton, Daniel, 254 + + Seymour, (Johnson) & Co., 483 + + Shankland, J. H., 476 + + Shark hunting, 268, 308 + + Shasta, proposed State of, 241 + + Shatto, George R., 568; -- Street, 568 + + Shaw, Dr. and Mrs., 459 + + Shaw, Frederick Merrill, 610 + + Sheep, 167, 216, 218, 220, 310, 322, 332, 362, 374, 381, + 419, 437, 445, 507; -- shearing, 362; --, bet on races, 160; + -- wash, 252 + + Sherman, John, 547 + + Sherman, M. H., 612 + + Sherman, William Tecumseh, 17, 18, 20, 21, 55, 107, 255, 328 + + Sherman, town of, 382 + + Sherwinsky, Tobias, 75, 177 + + Sheward, J. T., 607 + + Shields, James, 271 + + Shiloh, Battle of, 295, 316 + + Shoes and shoemakers, 86, 159, 213 + + Shoe-String strip, the, 637 + + Shoo-Fly Landing, 459 + + Shooting alleys, 402 + + Shorb, J. de Barth, 169, 302, 445, 483; Mrs. --, 302; -- + Station, 169, 302 + + Shore, John W., 39 + + Shore, William H., 246 + + Shrimps, 446 + + Shrine Auditorium, 639 + + Shrubbery, imported from the East, 139 + + Sichel, Julius, 72 + + Sichel, Parisian oculist, 164 + + Sichel, Philip, 290 + + Sichel Street, 290 + + Sidewalks, 20, 34, 211, 226, 229, 287, 343, 518 + + Side-wheelers, 153 + + Siemens, Judge, 539 + + Sierra Madre and Colony, 168, 519, 526, 563, 595; -- + Mountains, 526 + + _Sierra Nevada_, 346 + + Sigel, Franz, 406 + + Signal Hill, 374 + + Signoret, Felix, 137, 420; -- Building, 252, 420 + + Signs, early, 80, 111; --, painters of, 94 + + Silent, Charles, 596, 615 + + Silent, Edward D., 596, 607 + + Silk industry, 390; -- worms, 391 + + Silver, Herman, 594, 595 + + Silver, supply of in the fifties, 129; -- coins, first from + San Francisco mint, 247 + + Simi Pass, 208 + + Simmie, J. W., 568 + + Simmons, John, 335, 439 + + Simmons, Mrs., nurse, 250 + + Simpkins, Charles H., 489 + + Simpson, Frank, 638 + + Sims, Columbus, 51, 55, 246, 296, 303 + + Sinsabaugh, H., 552 + + Sisson, Wallace & Co., 482 + + Sisters' Hospital, 100, 233, 553 + + Sisters of Charity, 100, 189, 190, 203; Sister Ana, 190, + 210; --Angela, 190; -- Clara, 190; -- Francisca, 190; -- + María Corzina, 190; -- María Scholastica, 190 + + Sitka, 602 + + "Sixteen to One," 613 + + Sixth District Agricultural Association, 640 + + Sixth Street, 73, 231, 375, 461, 515 + + _Skat_, 230 + + Skinner & Small, 467 + + Sketchley, Dr., 547 + + Skull Valley, 415 + + Slaney Bros., 86 + + Slaughter, F. N., 426 + + Slauson, James S., 546 + + Slauson, Jonathan S., 467, 476, 546, 561, 578, 625, 626 + + Slotterbeck, Henry, 230 + + Slugs, gold, 130, 160; --, thrown to actors, 186 + + Small, C. M., 405 + + Smallpox, 118, 202, 322, 329, 508 + + Smeltzer, D. E., 125 + + Smiley, Albert K., 591 + + Smiley, Alfred H., 591; -- Heights, 591 + + Smith, Aaron, 446 + + Smith, Charles W., 614 + + Smith, D. K., 455, 457 + + Smith, Emily R., xvi + + Smith, George, 279 + + Smith, George A., 639 + + Smith, George H., 351, 363, 443, 521; Mrs. --, 363 + + Smith, Josephine Rosanna, 411 + + Smith, Orin, 268 + + Smith, William A., 118 + + Smith & McPhee, 567 + + Smith & Walter, 377 + + Smoking, 252; -- in the street cars, 463 + + Smurr, C. F., 561 + + Snow, 314, 525 + + Snyder, Meredith P., 469, 613, 638 + + Soap, first manufacture of, 78 + + Social customs, 135, 136, 184, 224, 228, 347 + + Social distinctions, absence of, 185 + + Social life, simplicity of, 185; --, marked by cordiality, + 135, 184, 312, 383 + + Society Islands, 254 + + Soda in Owens Lake, 387 + + Soda water and fountains, 363 + + Söderhamn, 4 + + Sohms, Henry, 340 + + Solano, Alfredo, 78, 545, 607 + + Solano, Francisco, 78 + + Solar heater, inventor of, 615 + + Soldiers, 586; -- Home, 143; --, return of, to the Coast, + 353 + + Soledad, 375, 496; -- Pass, 440 + + Solomon, David, 342, 343 + + Solomon, M. S., 608 + + _Sombrero_, 158, 264 + + _Song of the Bell, The_, 119 + + Sonita, 205 + + Sonora, 42, 90, 205 + + Sonora Town, 31, 62ff., 78, 97, 134, 161, 227, 362, 458, + 549 + + Sortorel, Romo, 433 + + Sound Money League, 613 + + South Africa, 547 + + South California, proposed State of, 591 + + South Pasadena, 178, 448 + + Southern California, 22, 26, 95, 146, 166ff., 168, 176, + 183, 187, 205, 211, 215, 242, 252, 261, 274, 328, 334, 421, + 437, 439, 450, 477, 493, 503, 519, 520, 530, 544, 569, 597, + 616, 640, 645, 650; -- in State affairs, 35, 353, 406 + + Southern California Academy of Science, 599, 640; -- Science + Association, 599 + + Southern California Architects Association, 470 + + Southern California Coffee and Spice Mills, 559 + + Southern California Colony Association, 391 + + Southern California Fish Co., 628 + + Southern California, University of, 566 + + _Southern Californian_, 92, 133, 141, 148, 177, 190, 447 + + _Southern News_ (see under _News_) + + Southern Overland Mail Route, 301 + + Southern Pacific Railroad Co., 190, 322, 388, 450, 451, 453, + 468, 475, 482, 493, 496, 498, 503ff., 506, 510, 517, 521, + 549, 556, 561, 563, 569, 576, 619; threat to cut off Los + Angeles, 502; Arcade Depot, 112, 512, 531, 562; River + Station, 531, 562; --, Coast line, 583 + + _Southern Vineyard_ (see under Vineyard) + + _Southerner_, 152 + + Southland, new interest in the, 509 + + Southside, 579 + + Southwest Museum, 595, 635, 647, 648 + + Southwest Society, 542, 626 + + Spadra, 89, 144, 330 + + Spain, King of (Alfonso XIII.), 542; grant from King of + Spain, 40 + + Spalding, William A., 516, 556, 612 + + Spanish-American War, 616 + + Spanish archives, 400; -- drama, 352; -- families, 97; -- + Fathers, 101; -- language and names, 56, 93, 133, 170, 262, + 308, 315, 354, 371, 422, 528, 563; -- Missions, 102, 326, + 398, 520, 542, 589, 604; --newspapers, 93, 156, 308, 443; -- + -Mexican restaurants, 133, 178 + + Speculation during the Boom, mania for, 572 + + Spence, Edward F., 467, 473, 516, 521, 552, 566 + + Spencer, William, 609 + + Spikes, golden, 388, 504 + + Spiritualism, 483 + + Sports, 157, 159ff., 182, 242, 282, 401, 423, 490 + + Spring Street, 112, 335, 336, 401, 408, 417, 419, 472, 518, + 561; --, origin of the name, 336; Spring and Sixth Street + Railway, 460ff. + + Sproule, William, 619 + + Spurgeon, William H., 401 + + Spurs, 110, 159 + + Squatters, 382 + + Squirrels, ground, 24, 163, 215 + + Stages and staging, 117, 198, 234, 235, 246, 270, 302, 337, + 357, 374, 389, 391, 393, 394, 414, 416, 429, 435, 464, 465, + 481, 496, 497, 498, 532, 583; coast line, 153; express and + mail by stages, 234, 373; staging from San Pedro to Los + Angeles, 24, 341, 464; from Los Angeles to San Francisco, + 464; stage robberies, 394 + + _Stamboul_, stallion, 592 + + Stamped envelopes, 291, 374 + + Standard Wooden Ware Co., 601 + + Stanford, Leland, 322, 324, 388, 440, 503, 506, 507, 562 + + Stanley, John Quincy Adams, 35, 43, 44 + + _Star King_, 10 + + _Star_, Los Angeles, 54, 89, 92, 93, 94, 133, 162, 191, 240, + 249, 262, 276, 280, 292, 301, 306, 312, 315, 361, 371, 414, + 446, 447, 464, 498, 612 + + _Star of the West_, steamship, 14, 289 + + Stark & Ryer, 286 + + Stassforth, H., 303 + + State divisions, proposed, 188, 241, 520, 521, 591 + + State moneys, how carried to Sacramento, 260 + + State Normal School, 532 + + Stationers, 389 + + Stealing, Indians prone to, 131 + + Steam-bath, 371 + + Steam Navigation Co., 336 + + Steam separator, first, 384 + + Steam wagon, 276 + + Steamers, 237, 290, 346, 366, 395; little --, or tugs, 165, + 237, 290, 398; --, affecting schedule of trains, 404; + arrival of -- announced by a signal gun, 153; change of + names, 152; competition of --, 285, 435; departure of -- + affected by high seas, 154; or dependent on whim of captain, + 154; express sent by --, 373; -- and mail, 374; Pacific --, + 336; coastwise service of --, 22, 149, 152, 154, 210, 300, + 311, 312, 336, 381, 432, 436, 460, 465, 486, 506; service + often miserable, 336, and inconvenient, 486 + + Stearns, Abel, 30, 46, 70, 73, 77, 84ff., 109, 151, 166, + 189, 214, 215, 223, 226, 229, 255, 295, 313, 329, 343, 344, + 377, 430, 510; -- & Bell, 200; -- carriage, 85; -- Hall, + 314, 381, 385, 420, 427; Doña Arcadia -- (_née_ Bandini), + 85, 109, 254, 430 + + Steele, Harriet, xvi + + Stephens, Albert M., 597 + + Stephens, William Dennison, 600, 638 + + Stereopticon, early used in advertising, 499 + + Stern, Alfred, 43 + + Stern, Charles F., 43 + + Stettin, Germany, 3, 4 + + Stevens & Wood, 363 + + Stevenson, J. D., & --'s Regiment, 39, 49, 94, 476 + + Stewart, George H., 607, 613 + + Stewart, William M., 479 + + Still, William G., 283, 333 + + Stock breeding, 427 + + Stockholm, 5 + + Stockton, Robert Field, 24, 100, 178 + + Stockton, William M., 199 + + Stoermer, August, 147 + + Stoll, H. W., 363, 409 + + Stoll, Philip, 409 + + Stone, artificial, 490 + + Stoneman, George H., 394, 441, 443, 488, 499, 503, 528, 540, + 581 + + Storke, C. A., 450 + + Storms, off Newfoundland, 11; of 1856, 194; incidental to + earthquakes, 312 + + Story, Francis Quarles, 634 + + Stovell, Thomas, 568 + + Stower, John S., 230 + + _Stranded Bugle, The_, 583 + + Strassburg, 564; University of --, 598 + + Straus, Isadore and Mrs., 644 + + Strauss, Mr., 627 + + Strauss, Levi & Co., 381 + + Strawberries, 125, 428 + + Street of the Maids, 63, 159 + + Street railways: first (Spring & Sixth Street), 460, 461, + 609; second (Main Street line), 389, 462; tickets, how sold, + 461; transfers, 462; first double-track, 562 + + Streets, lighting of, 34, 68, 267, 349, 400, 408; --, bad + condition of, 34, 307, 584; --, filled with refuse, 34; --, + neglect of, 83; --, ungraded, 34; street numbers, absence + of, 80; -- parades in, 338, 499ff., 528, 529; + street-scenes, 222; -- sprinklers, 416 + + Strelitz Block, 511, 550 + + Stroble, Max von, 346, 406 + + Strobridge, George F., xvi + + Strohm, Thomas, 550 + + Strong, Charles, 416 + + Stuart, J. H., 203 + + Stubbs, J. C., 504, 619 + + Subdividing and subdivisions, 292, 376, 570, 572ff. + + _Sued-Californische Post_, 465, 584 + + Suffrage Convention, Equal, 13 + + Sugar-beets, 388, 598; beet-sugar refining, 388, 598 + + Sugranes, Eugene, xvi + + Sulky, pioneer, 71 + + Sullivan, Arthur, 547 + + _Sultana_, 253 + + Summer outings, 429, 481 + + Summers, Emma A., 603 + + Summit Creek, 155 + + Sumner, Edwin V., 294, 316 + + Sumter, Fort, 266, 294, 616 + + Sundsvall, 4 + + Sunny Slope, 200 + + Sunset Oil Co., 379 + + Sun Yat Sen, 645 + + Superintendent of Schools, 105, 106, 389, 390, 419, 452, + 526, 642; office once vacant, 396 + + _Supply_, steamship, 222 + + Supreme Court, 637 + + Surgeons and early surgery, 108, 110, 297 + + Surveyors and surveys, 33, 34, 36, 38, 112, 149, 411 + + Sutter, John A., 476; --'s Creek, 39 + + Swamps, 112 + + Swansea, Wales, 388 + + Sweden, 2, 3, 6, 336, 564, 621 + + Sweet-potatoes, 126 + + Switching-charge case, 637 + + Switzer, Carrie, xii + + Switzer (Sweitzer), C. P., 543; --'s Camp, 543 + + Switzerland, 336, 398 + + Sycamore Grove, 401, 647 + + Sycamore tree, 126, 197, 401, 543 + + _Sydney Ware_, race horse, 160 + + Sylvester, John, 58 + + + T + + Tacoma, 602 + + Taft, William H., banquet to, 639 + + Tag, game of, 596 + + Tahoe Lake, 477 + + Tailors, 338; American --, 159; Mexican --, 159 + + Tajo Building, 90 + + Tally, Thomas L., 443; --'s Theater, 443 + + _Tamales_, 134, 277, 391; _tamale_ vender, 391, 629 + + _Tanner_, brig, 345 + + Tannery, 82; attempt to establish a --, 269 + + Tapía, Luciano, 206, 210 + + Tatooing, by Indians, 218 + + Taxes, 298, 333, 446; --, property sold for delinquent, 334, + 443; --, delinquent during Boom, 582; --, not collected, 328 + + Taylor, Benjamin Franklin, 514 + + Taylor, W. J., 412 + + Teachers, 47, 92, 105ff., 111, 141, 163, 190, 257, 263, + 308, 331, 355, 356, 373, 389, 390, 402, 419, 473, 494, 532, + 539, 610; first woman public school teacher, 47 + + Teachers' Institute, first, 418 + + Tecate, 424 + + Tedro, Philip, 222 + + Teed, M., 614 + + Tefft, Henry A., 56 + + Teháchepi, 44, 440, 582; disaster near --, 536 + + Tejón, Fort, 46, 204, 222, 234, 248, 297, 317, 327, 333; -- + Band, 157; -- Paso, 58 + + Tejunga Pass, 208, 454; -- _rancho_, 74 + + _Telegram, Evening_, 533 + + Telegram, $75 to U. S. Senate, 503 + + Telegraph, electric, and telegraphing, 234, 271, 283ff., + 305, 307, 308, 411; rates, 401; undeveloped --, 9; first + wire into a business office, 425; shortage of wire, 284; + wireless --, 624, 643 + + Telegraph Stage Line, 496, 497 + + Telephone, 560; --, first introduction here, 531 + + Telescopes, astronomical, 566 + + Tell, Will, and Tell's Place, 429, 460, 490, 581 + + Temécula, 124, 234 + + Temescal mines, 272, 302 + + Temple Auditorium, 590 + + Temple, Francis Phinney Fisk, 67, 167, 274, 282, 292, 317, + 328, 372, 435, 441, 454, 479; known as _Templito_, 167, 292; + death of, 167, 479, 520; -- _rancho_, 435; -- & Workman, + 435, 454, 467, 478, 482, 510 + + Temple, John (Juan), 37, 66ff., 74, 80, 122, 129, 139, 159, + 165, 229, 240, 256, 258, 263, 287, 291, 302; Mrs. --, 67; -- + Building (adobe), 67, 78, 291, 343, 372; -- Court House, 67, + 339, 440; -- Market, 240, 294; -- _rancho_, 204; --, sale of + properties, 67; -- Street, 61, 66, 417, 472; -- Theater, + 240, 263, 286, 318; subdivision of West Temple Street, 61, + 112; -- & Alexander, 23; -- & Gibson, 340 + + Temple Block, 32, 67, 229, 273, 279, 300, 312, 364, 410, + 435, 462, 490, 510, 519, 524, 534, 596 + + Terminal Island, 601 + + Terminal Railroad, 601 + + Terry, David S., 130 + + Teschemacher, H. F., 284 + + Teutonia, 214, 338; -- Hall, 426; -- Concordia, 259, 428 + + Texans, 91; exodus to Texas, 266 + + Thackeray, William Makepeace, 118 + + Thayer, John S., 545 + + Theaters, 185, 543, 559; John Temple's Theater, 240, 263, + 286, 318; Merced Theater, 103, 186, 422, 443, 450; Rough and + Ready Theater, 186; Spanish theater, 352, 422; theatrical + plays postponed, 286 + + Theodore Bros., 87 + + Thirty-Eights, firemen, 356, 446, 464, 500 + + Thirty-fifth parallel, 285, 399, 440 + + Thom, Cameron E., 45, 49, 51, 52, 139, 146, 172, 224, 228, + 295, 339, 347, 383, 434, 446, 481, 488, 521, 565, 587; Mrs. + -- (first wife, _née_ Hathwell), 52; Mrs. -- (second wife, + _née_ Hathwell), 52 + + Thomas, Bill, 404 + + Thomas, Frank J., 596, 607 + + Thompson, Captain, 226 + + Thompson, Ira W., 91, 196, 218, 251 + + Thompson, James, 181, 208, 246 + + Thompson, J. S., 505; Mrs. --, 181 + + Thompson, Judge, 457 + + Thompson, P., 405 + + Thompson, Robert, 432, 433, 434 + + Thompson, S. S., 120 + + Thorn, A. O., 357 + + Thornton, Harry I., 146 + + Threadneedle Street, 407 + + Three-fingered Jack, 58 + + Throop, Amos G. ("Father"), 599; -- College of Technology, + 599 + + Thurman, H. L., 92 + + Thurman, J. S., 92 + + Thurman, S. D., 92 + + Thwaites, Reuben Gold, xii + + Tibbetts, Jonathan, 91 + + Tibbetts, L. C., 451 + + Tichenor, H. B., 380, 467 + + Tiffany, George A., 427, 446 + + Tiffany & Wethered, 267 + + Tilden, A. F., 273 + + Tilden, Samuel J., 297, 323, 591 + + Tileston, Emery & Co., 384 + + _Times_, Los Angeles, 373, 444, 482, 530, 533, 541, 556, + 583, 590, 591, 612, 616, 617, 636, 646; Times-Mirror Co., + 533, 555, 556, 557; the Times Building, 453; --, destruction + of, 641; _Times Magazine_, 617 + + Timms, Augustus W., 23, 342, 500, 522; -- Cove, 522; -- + Landing, 23, 237, 522; -- Point, 522 + + Tipton, 496 + + Tischler, Hyman, 75, 329, 330; -- & Schlesinger, 229 + + _Titanic_, steamship, disaster to the, 644 + + Titus, L. H., 200, 423, 426, 445, 591, 593 + + Tivoli Garden, 273, 340; -- Opera House, 559 + + Toasts, old-fashioned, 399 + + Tobacco, 253, 505, 649; -- growing, 252; indulgence in --; + by women, 253 + + Toberman, James R., 330, 372, 373, 445, 446, 535; -- Street, + 446 + + Todd, Surgeon, 321 + + Toland, Dr. H. H., 319 + + Tomatoes, early, 428 + + Tom Gray Ranch, 357 + + Tomlinson, J. J., 23, 42, 236, 274, 290, 370, 371; -- & Co., + 337, 342; -- & Griffith, 420; -- corral gate, 327, 420, 433 + + Tonner, P. C., 419 + + _Toreador_, 161 + + Torneå, 5 + + Toros, 414 + + Toros, Calle de, 161 + + Torrance, Jared S., 647; -- Tower, 648 + + _Tortillas_, 134 + + Tourists, great influx of, 570 + + Tournament Park, Pasadena, 592; Tournament of Roses + Association, 592 + + Town ball, 596 + + Town, R. M., 472 + + Towns, frenzied founding of, 570 + + Townsend, B. A., 23 + + Trafford, Thomas, 326, 418 + + Transatlantic travel, 10ff., 67, 163, 164, 360, 564, 621 + + Trask, D. K., 607 + + Travel, difficulties of railway, 393, 496 + + Treadwell and Treadwell Mines, 602 + + Treasure, digging for, 254 + + Trees, 269, 291, 388; --, dearth of early, 162, 291; + Mariposa big --, 272; --, objection to watering, 163; --, + sacrificed for fuel, 141 + + _Trenza de sus Cabellos, la_, 352 + + Tres Pinos, 453, 457 + + _Tribune, Daily_, Los Angeles, 556 + + _Tribune_, Los Angeles, 642 + + Trinity Methodist Church, corner-stone opening, 474 + + Tropical life, 15 + + Tropico, 547 + + Truck, first flat, 335 + + Truck gardening, 124, 125 + + Truckee River, 370 + + Trudell, Jean B., 132; Mrs. -- (formerly, Mrs. Henry + Mellus), 133 + + Truman, Ben C., 361, 394, 441, 446, 447, 483, 498, 605, 607, + 612, 636; Mrs. --, 361, 612 + + Truth, native shyness of, 131 + + Truxton, 460 + + Tuch, Nathan, 89 + + Tucson, 301, 317, 375, 504 + + Tuffree, J. R., 581 + + Tulare County, 188 + + Tules, 112 + + Tuna, canned, 628 + + Tunnels, 496, 502, 504, 622; made and needed, 623 + + Turck, W. I., xvi + + Turkey, mammoth, 423 + + Turner, Joel H., 379, 388, 398, 399 + + Turner, John, 87 + + Turner, William, 500 + + Turner, William F., 87, 470; Mrs. --, 470 + + Turntable, first railroad, 397 + + Turnverein, 214, 272, 402, 409, 410, 428, 623; -- Building, + first, 428; -- Block, 192; Turnverein-Germania, 428, 584, + 629; -- Hall, 192, 526, 529, 533, 573, 584, 630 + + Tustin (Tustin City), 181, 577 + + Tustin, Columbus, 577, 578 + + Twain, Mark, 32 + + Tweed, William Marcy, 590 + + "Twenty-five Years Ago To-day," 623 + + Twist, W. W., 147, 209 + + Twitchell, Cæsar C., 106 + + _Two Years before the Mast_, 197, 226, 255, 296 + + Typewriter, first, 497 + + Ty, Sing, 433 + + Tyson's Wells, 415 + + + U + + Uhrie, Marie, 39 + + Ulyard, August, 77, 191, 287, 481; Mrs. --, 77 + + Umeå, 4 + + Unangst, E. P. and Mrs., xvi + + Union Hardware and Metal Co., 409 + + Union League, 338; -- Club, Philadelphia, 498 + + _Union_, steamer, 360 + + Union Warehouse, 288 + + Union & Texas Pacific Railroad, 486 + + Unionists, 224, 296, 306, 321, 333, 339, 341; --, San + Francisco, 339 + + United States and North America, 399 + + United States Army and officers, 166, 171, 173, 221, 224, + 247, 271, 272, 297, 303, 341, 358; headquarters, 246, 265, + 297, 299, 301, 311, 321, 341, 358, 517, 587 + + United States Circuit Court, 565; -- District Court, first + judge, 279 + + United States Government, 299, 308, 311, 321, 339, 353, 426, + 435, 630 + + United States Hotel, 149, 244, 279, 303, 380, 397, 469, 481, + 581 + + Universal City, 344 + + University of California, 403, 536, 624, 631 + + University of Chicago, 567 + + University of Southern California, 516, 536, 548 + + University Place, 609 + + Unruh, H. A., 475 + + Upper Main Street, 63, 159 + + Usurers, 130 + + Utah, 507, 301, 330 + + + V + + Vaccination, opposition to, 118, 322 + + Vaché, Adolphe, 281 + + Vaché, Émile, 280; -- Frères, 280, 548 + + Vaché, Théophile, 280; -- & Co., T., 281 + + Vail, W. L., 634 + + Valdez, José María, 58 + + Valle, António, 550 + + Vallejo, General, 263 + + _Valor of Ignorance, The_, 645 + + Vandever, William, 591 + + Van Dyke, Walter, 596 + + Van Dyke, William M., xvi + + Van Gilpin, Professor, 373 + + Van Nuys, Isaac Newton, 381, 421, 493, 514, 515, 537, 607; + --Building, 515; -- Hotel, 340 + + _Vaquero_, steamship, 430 + + _Vaqueros_, 90, 182, 243 + + _Vara_, the, 33, 262 + + Varela, Serbo, 266 + + Vasquez, Tibúrcio, 223, 453ff., 471, 517; --, recipient, in + cell, of flowers, 458; --, executed, 458 + + Vassallo, Francisco, 550 + + Vawter, E. J., 481 + + Vawter, William D., 481 + + Vawter, W. S., 481 + + Vegetables, 88, 124ff., 192, 272, 317, 332, 428, 504, 514, + 552; --peddled to steamers, 12 + + Vejar, John C., 147 + + Vejar, Ricardo, 174, 178, 200, 329; -- Vineyard, 474 + + Vejar, Soledad, 147 + + Velardes, Francisco, 159 + + Velocipedes, 384 + + Venice, 627, 630 + + Ventura (see San Buenaventura) + + _Ventura_, 346 + + Ventura County, 22, 599 + + Verandas, 113 + + Verde, Cape, 123 + + Verdugo Cañon, 424; --, Casa, 178 + + Verdugo family, 177 + + Verdugo, Guillermo, 178 + + Verdugo, José María, 177; -- _rancho_, 178, 181, 424 + + Verdugo, Julio, 178 + + Verdugo, Julio Chrisostino, 178 + + Verdugo, Victoriano, 178 + + Verelo, Miguel, 427 + + Vergara, Manuel, 35 + + Vernon, 575, 609 + + Vernon Avenue, 202 + + Vernondale, 575 + + Vickery & Hinds, 550 + + Vielle, Louis, 369 + + Vigilance Committees, 66, 139, 147, 207ff., 324ff., 419; + --, San Francisco, 21, 54, 340 + + Vignes, Jean Louis, 62, 89, 100, 108, 171, 190, 197, 198, + 200, 312; --Street, 198 + + Vignolo & Sanguinetti, 550 + + Villard, Henry, 539 + + Vineyard, James F., 143 + + Vineyard, Lake, 169, 306 + + _Vineyard, Southern_, 224 + + Vineyards, 25, 103, 112, 132, 142, 162, 197ff., 200, 213, + 233, 238, 249, 265, 281, 286, 292, 293, 300, 337, 363, 378, + 398, 445, 474, 610; -- affected by floods, 309; mother + vineyard, 199 + + Vintage, 294 + + Virgen, P. J., 34; -- Street, 34 + + Virgenes, Calle de las, 159 + + Virgin Bay, 16 + + Virginia City, Nevada, 477 + + Visalia, 270, 234; -- and the Southern Pacific, 503 + + Visiting, 81 + + Visitors, commotion caused by, 137 + + Vista del Arroya, 532 + + Voting precinct, first, 41 + + Vulture Mines, 415 + + + W + + Wachtel, J. V., 589 + + Wackerbarth, August, xvi + + Wade, K. H., 607 + + Wadhams, Collins, 76; -- & Foster, 76 + + Wagons, 24, 83; --, bet on races, 161; --, used for gallows, + 433; --from Salt Lake, 187; spring-wagon, 85; wagon-trains, + 242, 322, 354 + + Waite, Alonzo, 306, 315, 350, 380, 443, 446 + + Waite, James S., 94, 191, 192; -- & Co., 133 + + Waldeck, Jacob E., 605 + + Waldron, Dave, 462, 463 + + Walker, Frank, 615 + + Walker, Irving M., 355 + + Walker, William, 21, 54, 407 + + Wall Street, 448 + + Wallace, William A., 106, 192 + + Waller, G. M., 512 + + Walleria, 579 + + Walnut seed, black, 163 + + Walters, George, 63 + + Walther, F. G., 388 + + Walton, Charles S., 606 + + Ward, Ben E., 580 + + Ward, Mrs. J. T., xvi + + Ward, John, 83 + + Wards, London publishers, 631 + + Ware, Jim, 268 + + Warehouses, 288 + + Warner, Charles Dudley, 597 + + Warner, Jonathan Trumbull (Juan José), 169, 170, 224, 256, + 323, 372, 426, 501, 515, 541, 578, 609; --, Mrs., 170; --'s + Ranch, 169, 234, 294, 542 + + Warren, William C., 221, 327, 339, 418 + + Wartenberg, Henry, 61, 405, 409 + + Washburn, W. J., 626 + + Washburne, Elihu B., 360 + + Washing clothes, mode of, 117; --, in the river, 117 + + Washington, Colonel, 183 + + Washington Gardens, 447, 462, 463, 547 + + Washington, George and Martha, 500; --'s Birthday + Celebrations, 147, 264 + + Washington Street, 474 + + Washoe Gold Fields, 333 + + Wass Molitor & Co., 130 + + Watchmakers, 68, 213, 235, 356 + + Water, 211, 355, 360, 365, 370, 372, 418, 446, 533, 613, + 618; --Commissioner, 116; -- Companies, 366, 377, 384, 418, + 446, 454, 495, 509, 534; -- dam, 372; -- ditch, Child's 231; + domestic -- supply, 116, 117; --, Los Angeles River, 116; + water system, nucleus of, 210; --, objection to use of, 163; + --, peddling of, 116, 117, 350; -- pipes, iron, 377, 384, + 445; -- pipes, wooden, 211, 350, 366; --, pollution of, 116; + --, scarcity of, 114; --, stealing of, 125; --, _zanja_, + 115, 116 + + Watermelons, 126, 563; seeds of, for medicinal uses, 127 + + Waters, James, 63 + + Waters, Russell Judson, 605 + + Watkins, Commodore, 306 + + Watson, James A., 139, 174, 318 + + Way, Daniel E., 318 + + Weapons, carrying, 224; --, forbidden, 348 + + Weather prophets, 126, 421 + + Weaver Diggings, 321 + + Webber & Haas, 244, 303 + + Weber, shoemaker, 86 + + Webster, Daniel, 93, 650 + + Weddings, 136, 224, 347, 410, 464, 538, 636, 637 + + Weed, Edward A., 548 + + _Weekly Mirror_, see under _Mirror_ + + Weidner, Perry W., 634, 639 + + Weil, Alexander, 565 + + Weil, Alphonse, 551 + + Weil, Jacob, 91 + + Weiner, Captain, 150 + + Weinschank, Andrew A., 453 + + Weinschank, Caroline, 453 + + Weinschank, Frank A., 453 + + Weixel, Jacob, 115 + + Welch, J. C., 109, 320 + + Wells Fargo & Co., 39, 57, 111, 201, 233, 241, 245, 260, + 261, 280, 313, 320, 330, 373ff., 395, 410, 475 + + Wells, G. Wiley, 517 + + Wesley Avenue, 462, 516 + + West, B. R., 318 + + Western Union Telegraph Co., 411 + + Westlake district, 629; -- Park, 349, 609; --, subdivision, + 112 + + Westminster, 177; -- Hotel, 419 + + Weston, Olive E., xvi + + West Prussia, 1 + + Weyse, H. G., 202 + + Weyse, Julius, 202 + + Weyse, Otto G., and Mrs., 202 + + Weyse, Rudolf G., 202; Mrs. --, 142, 202 + + Whaling, 268, 308 + + Wharf, Long, San Francisco, 21, 89, 199; --, Port Los + Angeles, 468 + + Wharf, Santa Monica, 485 + + Wharves, absence of, 19, 22, 56 + + What Cheer House, 369 + + Wheat, 332, 381, 493 + + Wheat, A. C., xvi + + Wheeler, Horace Z., 38, 218 + + Wheeler, John Ozias, 38, 133, 218, 249, 279, 373, 379, 462, + 529, 562; -- Bros., 38 + + Wheeler, Mary Esther, 106, 373 + + Wheelwrights, 82, 84, 115, 153, 239, 358, 384 + + Whigs, 91 + + Whipping post, 66 + + Whipple Barracks, Arizona, 587 + + Whisky Flat, 357 + + Whist, 230 + + Whitcomb, George, 576 + + Whitcomb, Ledora, 576 + + White, Caleb E., 512 + + White, Charles H., 452, 556 + + White, Jennie, 185, 436 + + White, Michael, 87, 90 + + White House, 219, 542, 618; --, hotel, 418, 552 + + White Pine, Nevada, 424 + + White River, 414 + + White, Stephen M., 467, 553ff., 565, 596, 597, 607; --, + monument to, 468 + + White, Thomas J., 107, 185, 200, 267, 356, 436 + + White, T. Jeff, 185 + + White's Point, 624 + + Whitman, George N., 43 + + Whittier, John Greenleaf, 576; --, town of, 180, 374, 555, + 576, 620; --, origin of name, 489 + + Whitworth, James H., 250 + + Wholesalers' Board of Trade, 538 + + Wickenberg, 415 + + Wicks, Moye, 477 + + Wicks, Moses Langley, 476, 540 + + Widney, Joseph P., 370, 423, 457, 483, 501, 516, 521, 529, + 548, 589 + + Widney, Robert Maclay, 370, 401, 412, 426, 434, 442, 449, + 460, 483, 489, 503, 515, 521; Mrs. --, 634 + + Widney, Samuel A., 311 + + Wiebecke's beer garden, Frau, 409 + + Wiebers, D., 601, 635, 637 + + Wiggin, Kate Douglas, 474 + + Wiggins, Frank, 607, 634, 647 + + Wigmore, George H., 619 + + Wilburn, Robert, 275 + + Wilcox, Henry, 472, 473 + + Wild animals, first, 463 + + Wilde, Charles L., xvi + + Wiley, H. C., 180, 395, 492; Mrs. --, 180, 493 + + Wilhart, Louis, 82, 200 + + Wilkins, Charles, 327 + + Willard, Charles Dwight, vii, 543, 545, 607, 619, 635, 646; + Mrs. --, 646, 647 + + Willhartitz, Adolph, 625 + + Williams, Francisca, 168, 347 + + Williams, George, 348 + + Williams, George, grocer, 551 + + Williams, Hiram, 197 + + Williams, J. A. & Co., 613 + + Williams, Julian Isaac, 38, 167, 168, 197, 226, 263, 326, + 347, 598, 617; --, Mrs., 347 + + Williams, María Merced, 168 + + Williamson, George, 379 + + Williamson, Mariana, 444 + + Williamson, Mrs. M. Burton, 603 + + Williamson, Nels, 82, 444 + + Williamson Tract, 573 + + Willmore, W. E., 521; -- City, 521 + + Willows, 126, 198, 212, 329, 614 + + Willow Springs, 414 + + Wills, Mrs. Charlotte LeMoyne, 567 + + Wills, John A., 567 + + Wills, W. LeMoyne, 363, 567, 607 + + Wilmington, 218, 236, 247, 299, 301, 311, 321, 326, 342, + 353, 363, 366, 375, 376, 381, 384, 389, 393ff., 397, 402, + 404, 506, 520, 548, 637, 638; --, charge for hauling from, + 343; -- Harbor, 426; --shipping, 236; --, Southern Pacific + Railroad influence in favor of, 521; -- Street, 551; -- + Transportation Co., 568 + + _Wilmington Journal_, 404 + + Wilmington, Delaware, 236 + + Wilshire, H. G., 580; -- Boulevard, 580 + + Wilshire, W. B., 607 + + Wilshire district, 379; -- subdivision, 112 + + Wilson, Benjamin (Benito) Davis, 63, 168, 172, 175, 190, + 200, 241, 302, 306, 316, 320, 322, 346, 363, 412, 440, 445, + 451; Mrs. -- (_née_ Yorba), 169; Mrs. -- (formerly Mrs. M. + S. Hereford), 169, 316, 320; proposed -- College, 451; --, + Mount, 566; --'s Peak, 168 + + Wilson, Bob, 248 + + Wilson, C. N., 541 + + Wilson, Emmet H., 626 + + Wilson, John, 28, 428 + + Wilson, Peter (Bully), 279, 429 + + Wilson, Ruth, 363 + + Wilson's Station, 415 + + Windmills, 460 + + Windstorms, 336 + + Windward Passage, 14 + + Wine cellars, 294; -- gardens, 193 + + Wineries, wine-making and wines, 134, 200, 202, 203, 219, + 233, 238, 239, 265, 280, 294, 369, 407 + + _Winfield Scott_, steamship, wreck of, 22 + + Winston, James B., 107, 108, 109, 183, 245, 255, 346, 380; + Mrs. --, 183, 255; -- & Co., J. B., 316; -- & Hodges, 26, + 92; -- & King, 380 + + _Wireless_, 624 + + Wise, K. D., 457 + + Witmer, Henry Clay, 563 + + Wolfenstein, V., 364 + + Wolfskill, John, 170; -- Tract, 586 + + Wolfskill, Joseph, 212, 263 + + Wolfskill, Juana, 142 + + Wolfskill, Louis, 170, 174, 263, 439 + + Wolfskill, Magdalena, 171 + + Wolfskill, Mateo, 170, 171 + + Wolfskill, Timoteo, 72 + + Wolfskill, William, 72, 89, 106, 112, 125, 142, 163, 170, + 174, 187, 199, 201, 211, 212, 219, 229, 244, 286, 326, 336, + 357, 394, 439; Mrs. --, 171; -- Building, 362; -- Lane, 485; + -- orange grove, 212; --ranch and subdivision, 544; -- Road, + 273; -- Tract, 562; -- Vineyard, 201 + + Wollweber, Theodore, 201, 291 + + Woman's Gun, 101; -- rights, 278 + + Women's clubs, 473, 600, 607; --, open air meeting of, 409 + + Wood as fuel, 37, 141 + + Wood, lynching of, 324, 327 + + Wood, C. Modini, 529; --, Mrs. (see under Perry) + + Wood, F. W., 606 + + Wood, John, 463; --'s Opera House, 463; --'s Band, 499 + + Woodworth, Alice, 142 + + Woodworth, John D., 231, 445 + + Woodworth, Samuel, 231 + + Woodworth, Wallace, 81, 231, 263; --, Mrs., 200, 263 + + Wool, and the wool-craze, 288, 421, 437ff., 628; woolen + mills, 450, 511 + + Woollacott, H. J., 79, 607 + + Woolwine, Thomas Lee, 111 + + Woolwine, W. D., 607 + + Wooster Street Congregation, New York, 122 + + Worden, Perry, viii., 119 + + Workman, Antónia Margarita, 167 + + Workman, Boyle, 233 + + Workman, David and Mrs., 132 + + Workman, Elijah H., 132, 269, 417 + + Workman, Thomas H., 42, 132, 142, 320; Mrs. --, 142 + + Workman, William, 132, 172, 205, 242, 317, 355, 372, 479, + 494 + + Workman, William H., 42, 43, 132, 141, 202, 224, 232, 256, + 269, 349, 419, 481, 561, 587, 589, 594, 598, 629, 630; -- + Bros., 291; -- Street, 132 + + Workman, William H., Jr., 233 + + Works, John D., 517; -- & Lee, 517 + + Wright, E. T., 568 + + Wright, George, 436 + + Wright, John H., 358 + + Wright, J. T., 285 + + + Y + + _Yankee Doodle_, 501 + + Yankee notions, 218 + + Yarnell, George, 427; -- & Caystile, --, Caystile & Brown, + 444; --, Caystile & Mathes, 530, 533 + + Yarnell, Jesse, 427 + + Yarrow, Henry G., 76 + + Yates, J. D., 78, 279 + + Yates, Mary D., 79 + + Ybarra, Francisco, 457 + + Yeast powders, 346 + + Yellow fever, 14, 359 + + Yellow tail, 127 + + Yerba Buena, 49 + + Yorba, Bernardo, 169, 177, 212, 238 + + Yorba, José António, 181 + + Yorba, Josefa, 103 + + Yorba, Ramona, 169 + + Yost, Robert M., 628 + + Young, Brigham, 156, 218, 345, 498 + + Young, Ewing, 170, 187 + + Young, Frances, 143 + + Ystad, 3, 4 + + Yuma, Fort, 35, 74, 205, 234, 247, 274, 283, 294, 301, 343, + 375, 514 + + + Z + + Zahn, Johann Carl, 430 + + Zahn, Oswald F., 430 + + Zahn, Otto J., 430 + + _Zanjas_, 88, 115, 119, 125, 210, 218, 265, 322, 364, 472, + 548, 573; _zanja madre_, 116, 210 + + _Zanjero_, 36, 94, 116, 125, 286, 295, 302, 573 + + Zarate, Felipe, 424 + + Zeehandelaar, Felix J., 607, 611, 639 + + Zeppelin, Ferdinand, 561 + + Zola, Émile, 451 + + + + + +End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Sixty Years in Southern California +1853-1913, by Harris Newmark + +*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 42680 *** |