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diff --git a/42495-8.txt b/42495-8.txt deleted file mode 100644 index 0aa32b6..0000000 --- a/42495-8.txt +++ /dev/null @@ -1,1956 +0,0 @@ -The Project Gutenberg EBook of The Channel Islands, by Joseph Morris - -This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with -almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or -re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included -with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org - - -Title: The Channel Islands - -Author: Joseph Morris - -Release Date: April 8, 2013 [EBook #42495] - -Language: English - -Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1 - -*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE CHANNEL ISLANDS *** - - - - -Produced by Melissa McDaniel and the Online Distributed -Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This file was -produced from images generously made available by The -Internet Archive) - - - - - - - -Transcriber's Note: - - Inconsistent hyphenation and spelling in the original document have - been preserved. Obvious typographical errors have been corrected. - - Italic text is denoted by _underscores_ and bold text by =equal - signs=. - - - - - [Illustration] - - - - - _Beautiful Britain_ - - _The Channel Islands_ - - _By_ - _Joseph E. Morris B.A._ - - - _London Adam & Charles Black_ - _Soho Square W_ - _1911_ - - - - -CONTENTS - - - CHAPTER PAGE - - I. JERSEY 5 - - II. GUERNSEY 32 - - III. ALDERNEY, SARK, AND THE LESSER ISLANDS 53 - - INDEX 63 - - - - -LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS - - - 1. ST. PETER PORT, GUERNSEY _Frontispiece_ - - FACING PAGE - - 2. THE CASQUET ROCKS AND LIGHTHOUSE 9 - - 3. MONT ORGUEIL CASTLE, JERSEY 16 - - 4. LA CORBIÈRE LIGHTHOUSE, JERSEY 25 - - 5. THE NEEDLE ROCK, GRÈVE AU LANÇON, JERSEY 27 - - 6. THE PEA STACKS, JERBOURG, GUERNSEY 30 - - 7. MOULIN HUET, GUERNSEY 32 - - 8. HERM AND JETHOU FROM GUERNSEY 43 - - 9. A FIELD OF CHRYSANTHEMUMS IN GUERNSEY 46 - - 10. THE COUPÉE, SARK 49 - - 11. THE SISTER ROCKS, ALDERNEY 56 - - 12. NOIRMONT POINT, JERSEY _On the cover_ - - - - -THE CHANNEL ISLANDS - - - - -CHAPTER I - -JERSEY - - -If on a fine day we take our stand on one of the terraces, or -battlements, of Mont Orgueil Castle--and there is hardly a pleasanter -spot in Jersey in which to idle away a sunny summer afternoon--we -shall realize more completely than geography books can tell us that -the Channel Islands really constitute the last remnants of the ancient -Norman dukedom that still belong to the English Crown. For there, -across the water, not more than twenty miles away, and stretching from -north of Carteret far southwards towards Granville and Mont St. -Michel, is the long white line of the Norman coast itself--on a clear -day it is even possible to make out the tall, twin spires of -Coutances, half a dozen miles inland, crowning, like Lincoln or Ely, -their far-seen hill. No part of France, it is true, approaches so -closely to Jersey as Cap de la Hague (the extreme north-west point of -the Cotentin) approaches to the north-east corner of Alderney. Still, -under certain atmospheric conditions--such, for example, as Wordsworth -experienced when he wrote his fine sonnet headed _Near Dover, -September, 1802_--the "span of waters"--hardly greater than the -Straits of Dover themselves--really seems almost to shrink to the -dimensions of "a lake or river bright and fair." Contrast with this -proximity the long stretches of open sea that separate these islands -from Weymouth or Southampton, and we begin to realize how, physically -at any rate, Jersey is more properly France than England: - - Elle est pour nous la France, et, dans son lit des fleurs, - Elle en a le sourire et quelquefois les pleurs. - -The impression thus gained is hardly diminished when we quit our lofty -watch-tower and descend to the plain. The Channel Islands are -doubtless destined in the end to be wholly anglicized, but the process -is one of imperceptible transition. A curious French patois, that is -really the last relics of the ancient Norman speech, is still the -common language of the people. "It is probably," says Mr. Bicknell, -in his charming _Little Guide_, "the nearest approach now extant to -the French spoken at the time of the Norman Conquest by the Normans in -England." French is also the language used commonly in the country -churches; and it is strange to follow the familiar English liturgy -rendered thus in a foreign tongue. The Channel Islands, though -jealously retaining their ancient independence, and as separate in -many respects from England as are Canada and Australia, are yet -integrally part of the established English Church. The Reformation -freed them from the yoke of Coutances only to subject them to the yoke -of Winchester. French, too, or rather Norman, is the curious "Clameur -de Haro" that plays so strange a part in the ancient island law. This -is the regular machinery, in actions connected with real estate, to -maintain the existing _status in quo_ till the action can be fought -out at length; and in Jersey is set in motion by the plaintiff -himself, whereas in England it is necessary to invoke the Courts of -Law. "At the disputed place the aggrieved person, in the presence of -two witnesses, orders the aggressor or his agent to desist by -exclaiming: 'Haro! Haro! Haro! A l'aide, mon Prince, on me fait -tort.' After this he denounces the aggressor by exclaiming: 'Je vous -ordonne de quitter cet ouvrage'; upon which, unless he desist -instantly, he is liable to be punished for breach of the King's -authority, the property being supposed to be under the King's special -protection from the moment the 'cry' is made." Afterwards the action -is tried; and, of course, if it prove that the complainant has invoked -the "haro" wrongly (the word is said by some to be derived from the -Frankish "haran," to cry out, or shout; but by others to be a -corrupted form of "Ah Rollo"--the first Norman Duke--or "Ah Rou"--Oh -my King), he is liable to be fined by the court. It is sometimes said -that this strange process was in constant use in Normandy long before -the arrival of Rollo and his fierce followers from the North. - - [Illustration: THE CASQUET ROCKS AND LIGHTHOUSE. - This group of rocks lies N.N.E. of Guernsey, and is passed by the - steamers which serve the islands from England.] - -French, again, is the architecture of the churches, that in some ways -has no parallel in England. French, in many particulars, is the aspect -of the towns, whose long rows of whitewashed houses, with their -never-ending sun-blinds, testify to a warmth and sunlight too -conspicuously rare in England. Actually French are many of the faces -that one encounters in the streets or on the quays. The Channel -Islands of late years have become a favourite touring-ground for -summer visitors from France, who so seldom venture to cross the -Channel to explore the beauties of England itself. The admirable -little _Guides Joanne_ now include a volume on the _Iles Anglaises de -la Manche_. It is amusing, however, to read in this work that in one -respect at least Jersey is still definitely English. "L'observation -stricte du dimanche règne à Saint-Hélier comme en Angleterre. La ville -déserte, avec ses boutiques fermées, offre un silence sépulchral." But -the closed shops, if not the sepulchral silence, are now becoming -common in France itself. - -Mont Orgueil, where we stand, is not a bad starting-point from which -to commence our exploration of Jersey. Happy, indeed, the visitor who -arrives at this little port from France--and the steamer comes from -Carteret in little more than an hour. Most English tourists, on the -other hand, make Jersey first at St. Helier, which happens to be a -town of considerable dulness, and compares very badly with St. Peter -Port, in Guernsey. Mont Orgueil, however, may be reached at once from -St. Helier by one of the two strange little railways that traverse the -south coast of the island. The traveller should quit the train at the -previous station of Gorey Village, and walk thence across Gorey Common -to the Castle. This last, placed bravely on its boss of rugged rock, -grows more and more impressive the nearer we approach it. Superb in -situation, and unusually picturesque, this "hill of pride" has yet few -features of real architectural interest. Parts of it date from about -the end of the twelfth century, and the archæologist, of course, will -gather "sermons" from every stone of it. But the ordinary sight-seer -will be best delighted with the picturesque approach up long flights -of steps past successive gateways; with the beautiful views of land -and sea to be got from its towers; and, best of all, by the general -view of the castle itself, dominating the little harbour that crouches -below its walls. The structure is built of a soft-red granite, that is -very pleasant to look on, and not least so in spring, when its broken -walls are beautifully variegated with a thousand brilliantly orange -wallflowers. One is reminded for a moment of the famous verse-- - - A rose-red city, half as old as time-- - -which is said to have won the Newdigate prize for Dean Burgon's poem -on _Petra_. Nor is Mont Orgueil by any means lacking in tragic -"foot-notes" to history. William Prynne had been condemned to lifelong -imprisonment by the Star Chamber in 1634, and to lose both his ears in -the pillory. Two years previously he had published his _Histriomastix_, -"a volume of over a thousand pages," in which he had upheld, with many -ancient and modern instances, the immorality of the drama and of -play-acting. Unfortunately, at about this time Henrietta Maria had -herself taken part in some private theatricals, and a certain passage -in the index, "reflecting on the character of female actors in -general, was construed as an aspersion on the Queen." For this, and -other offences, he received the savage sentence, which was carried -into execution with unrelenting cruelty. At first he was imprisoned in -the Tower; but three years later (having in the meanwhile been found -guilty of another "seditious libel," and branded on both cheeks) he -was removed, first to Carnarvon Castle, and afterwards to Mont -Orgueil. With the meeting of the Long Parliament, in 1640, Prynne was -immediately set at liberty. In Jersey he had occupied an enforced and -tedious leisure by indulging a propensity for verse-making. His -_Mount Orgueil, or Divine and Profitable Meditations_, was -published in 1641; and _A Pleasant Purge for a Roman Catholic_ in -1642; "Rhyme," says Mr. C. H. Firth, in the _Dictionary of National -Biography_, "is the only poetical characteristic they possess." A line -or two may be quoted from _Mount Orgueil_ as a sample: - - _Mount Orgueil Castle_ is a lofty pile, - Within the Easterne parts of _Jersy Isle_, - Seated upon _a Rocke_, full large and high, - Close by the Sea-shore, next to Normandie. - -The poet then goes on to tell us how this stronghold is sometimes -assaulted--but assaulted to no purpose--by sea and wind, "two -boystrous foes": - - For why this fort is built upon a _Rocke, - And so by Christs owne verdict free from shocke - Of floods and winds; which on it oft may beate, - Yet never shake it_, but themselves defeate. - -Less than a decade later and the walls of Mont Orgueil witnessed still -blacker tragedy. The quarrel of the Bandinels and the Carterets is an -ugly page of history that almost recalls in its unrelenting ferocity -some of the worst clan "vendettas" of the Highlands. The trouble -began, apparently, with the action of Sir Philip de Carteret, when -Governor of Jersey, in attempting to deprive David Bandinel--the -writer does not know the rights and wrongs of the quarrel--of part of -his tithes as Dean of the island. Shortly after this the Civil War -began in England, and the Channel Islands were immediately plunged -into internecine strife. Philip de Carteret was leader of the -Royalists, while Bandinel espoused the cause of the Parliament. The -latter at first was triumphant, and Carteret and his wife, Elizabeth, -were respectively besieged by the Parliamentary troops, the one in -Elizabeth Castle, and the other in Mont Orgueil. Carteret was not -quite sixty years old, but the severities of the siege were too great -for him. There were wrongs, no doubt, on both sides; but the Puritans -seem certainly to have acted on occasion with a surly lack of -generosity that goes far to atone for the brutal persecution by the -Royalist party of a man like Prynne. In 1644, when Colonel Morris was -besieged in Pontefract, we read in the diary of Nathan Drake that "the -enemy basely stayed all wine from coming to the Castle for serving of -the Communion upon Easter Day, although Forbus (their Governor) had -graunted p'tection for the same, and one Browne of Wakefield said if -it was for our damnation we should have it, but not for our -Solvation." Similarly, in Jersey, the Parliamentary Committee, of whom -Dean Bandinel was one, refused the dying Sir Philip the last -consolations of religion, and even (according to some accounts) the -presence of his wife. This, too, after an appeal so piteous as might -well have drawn - - iron tears down Pluto's cheek, - And made Hell grant what Love did seek. - -Send me Mr. La Cloche, implored the sick man, "to administer unto me -such comforts as are necessary and usual in these extremities, and -that you would permitt my poor wife to come unto me, to doe me that -last duty, as to close my eyes. The Lord forgive you, as I doe forgive -you all." One is glad to read, however, in the _Dictionary of National -Biography_, that Lady Carteret was in fact allowed to visit her -husband, though almost at his very last gasp. "When the flooring of -[St. Ouen's] church was altered 229 years afterwards, the body of Sir -Philip enclosed in a leaden shell was uncovered, when it was found by -the late Francis Le Maistre to be as white as wax, to have suffered -very little decay, and to measure 6 feet 4 inches." - -Presently the "jade Fortune" changed her favours, and the island was -recovered for the King by Sir George Carteret, nephew and son-in-law -to its former Governor. Dean Bandinel and his son James, the Rector of -St. Mary's, were immediately clapped into prison in Mont Orgueil -Castle, in the same cell that had formerly been occupied by Prynne. It -does not appear that they were treated harshly, but Sir George was a -man of cruel severity, and it may well be that they dreaded his -further resentment. Anyhow, father and son resolved on a romantic -escape. At about three o'clock in the morning, on the stormy night of -February 10, 1644, they attempted to lower themselves from the window -of their cell by a rope made of knotted napkins, sheets, and pieces of -cord. "It is improbable that they had reconnoitred this place in the -daytime," says Durell, "for had they been aware of the great -elevation, they would never have made the attempt, as long as they -were in their senses." Durell wrote in 1837, when the Tour de Mont -(completed by Henry Paulet in 1553) was in existence for the whole of -its height. This is said to have been 200 feet high, and the place of -imprisonment of the Bandinels was immediately under its battlements. -The building was supposed to be dangerous, and is now pulled down to -its basement. Anyhow, when James Bandinel came to the bottom of the -rope--he was the first to venture on the perilous descent--he found it -was much too short. He allowed himself to drop on the rocks below, and -was seriously hurt by the fall. His father, still less fortunate, was -only halfway down, when the flimsy rope parted in two. He was thus -dashed to the earth from a much greater height than his son, and was -found lying there next morning in a dying condition. The son, after -wrapping his insensible old father in his cloak, had attempted to make -good his own escape. He was caught, however, a few days later, and -conducted back in triumph to his cell. That same day the gates of Mont -Orgueil had been opened to allow his father's body to be taken to the -grave. David Bandinel was buried in St. Martin's Churchyard, two miles -to the north-west of Mont Orgueil by the Faldouet road. I have -searched for his grave on the east side of the churchyard, but there -seems now to be no memorial, and the hawthorn that once marked it has -vanished. It is said, however, to be in close proximity to the -tombstones of Lucy and Mary Roche Jackson. His wife and son were -afterwards laid by his side. - - [Illustration: MOUNT ORGUEIL CASTLE, JERSEY. - The name, meaning "Mount of Pride," is said to have been given to the - castle after Sir Reginald de Carteret's successful defence of it - against du Guesclin in 1374.] - -Mont Orgueil was unsuccessfully besieged by the French under the -leadership of the Duc de Bourbon and the great Bertrand du Guesclin, -Marshal of France (whose splendid tomb may still be seen in the north -chapel of St. Laurent, at Le Puy), in 1374. It was in honour of this -achievement that it received its present name from Thomas, Duke of -Clarence, and brother of Henry V. - -Looking southward from Mont Orgueil at low tide it is possible to -realize the extraordinary difficulties that attend the navigation of -the Jersey seas. The coast from this point to St. Aubin is flat, but -as far as eye can see the surface of the water is a vast archipelago -of broken rocks and reefs. Still farther out to sea is the hardly -submerged plateau of the Minquiers, with here and there a point that -just lifts above high water. There is a second stretch of low sandy -coast on the west of the island, at St. Ouen's Bay, guarded in its -turn by a second reef of rocks. Nor do these exhaust the possibilities -of coming to ruin on this iron coast. It is not without reason that -the steam-packets from England run in the daytime only in summer, -when the long light evenings give every opportunity of picking their -way through the narrow passages. The fate of the _Stella_ (on the -afternoon of Maunday Thursday, 1899), somewhere in the neighbourhood -of the terrible Casquets, is still too vivid in men's memories to need -re-telling. The exact point of striking is unknown. The _Stella_ -settled down in the afternoon mist, and no man has ever traced her, or -identified her grave in "the vast and wandering" main. - -Most that is best in Jersey is identified with its coast, except, -perhaps, for the archæologist, who will want to push a little inland, -to investigate the ancient churches of St. Mary, St. Lawrence, and St. -Peter. Inland, too, is the Prince's Tower, built on the Hougue-Hambye -in the eighteenth century. The mound is associated with a serpent -legend, that perhaps has points of contact with the well-known stories -of the Sockburn and Laidley "worms." The old chapel that adjoins it -was remodelled by Richard Mabon, Dean of Jersey, in 1525. He had -returned from a pilgrimage to the Holy Land, and constructed an -imitation of the Holy Sepulchre; just as Opice Adornes, a hundred -years earlier, had erected the Church of Jerusalem at Bruges. -Preserved in this now-deserted chapel is a font for the exact parallel -of which we shall look in vain in England, though analogous cases -occur in our country, and some precisely similar instances may be -found in France. Attached to the inside of the bowl is a smaller bowl, -which was probably meant to catch the drippings of the consecrated -water that ran off the baby's head. This is the ceremony demanded in -terms by the _Rituale Romanum_, as cited in Mr. F. Bond's beautiful -book on Fonts (p. 60): "Ne aqua ex infantis capite in fontem, sed vel -in sacrarium baptisterii prope ipsum fontem ex-structum defluat, aut -in aliquo vase ad hunc usum parato recepta, in ipsius baptisterii vel -in ecclesiæ sacrarium effundatur." Modern Roman Catholic fonts are now -often constructed in two separate partitions, and this is said to be -the origin of the plural _fonts baptismaux_, of such constant -occurrence in France. - -Most of the interest of Jersey, however, except its fields of giant -cabbage-stalks, and its green lanes of quaint little pollarded trees, -will probably be found on the sea-coast, or near it. Let us, from Mont -Orgueil, set our faces to the west, calling, on our way towards -modern St. Helier, at the two ancient parish churches of Grouville and -St. Clement's. In Grouville churchyard are buried seven soldiers who -fell in a skirmish with a detachment of the French who had been left -behind by Rullecourt, when he landed on this spot and advanced on St. -Helier on January 6, 1781. Grouville church itself has little -interest. Like other churches in the island, it is built of granite, -and has windows with good Flamboyant tracery, except where this last -has been cut away for the insertion of ugly "church-warden" sashes. It -possesses, however, in the south wall of the south chapel, a very -curious feature, the object of which is obscure. This is a niche on -the level of the floor, with a late segmental head, and with what -seems a broken cavity in the lower part at the back. I do not know -whether this was once used as an oven for baking the sacramental -wafer, such as those that are sometimes thought to have been found in -the Surrey churches of Limpsfield, Nutfield, and Dunsfold. St. -Clement's, a mile to the south, and lying off the direct road to St. -Helier, should be visited for the sake of its ancient wall-paintings. -One of these exhibits St. Michael; another St. Margaret of Antioch, -emerging from the body of the dragon, who had vainly tried to swallow -her; and another St. Barbara of Heliopolis, standing near her tower. -Still more interesting are the scanty relics of the "Trois Vifs" and -the "Trois Morts"--the legend of the three Kings, who, when hunting in -the forest, were suddenly confronted by three open graves, or by three -hideous skeletons. The classical instance of this morality is in the -Campo Santo at Pisa; and there is another fine example, in a kind of -vestry, on the south side of the great abbey-church of St. Riquier, -near Abbeville. It was altogether rather a favourite subject with -medieval, religious artists, not less than twenty-three examples being -recorded in England by Mr. Keyser, as well as one at Ste. Marie du -Chastel, in Guernsey. It must not be confounded with the parallel -"Dance of Death," of which there are only five recorded instances, in -addition to the one at old St. Paul's. There is still a grand example -of this last on the back of the north choir stalls, in the strange old -abbey-church of La Chaise Dieu, in Central France. - -St. Helier, we have hinted, is a somewhat tedious town; by which we -mean only that the place contains few objects of special interest, -and is a trifle too large and urban for so very small an island. No -doubt some of its aspects are agreeable enough. The parish church is a -restored building of small architectural interest, but contains the -grave of the gallant Major Pierson, who fell in Jersey, in 1781, in -the conflict with the French in the Royal Square. His adversary, -Rullecourt, who also perished, is buried on the north of the -churchyard. Rullecourt landed to the east of St. Helier during the -night of January 5, and took the town by a sudden assault. The -Governor, Major Moses Corbet, was captured in his bed; and was forced -to sign a capitulation, as well as an order to Major Pierson to -surrender the troops in his charge. Pierson, however, charged the -enemy in the Royal Square, where they had barricaded themselves, and -fell at the first assault. Undeterred by the loss of their leader, the -Jersey soldiers and militia-men continued fighting, and cleared the -French from the town. St. Helier possesses yet other claims to -historical distinction, in the mystery of James de la Cloche. This -last was the eldest illegitimate son of Charles II., and is known to -have been a Jerseyman. His story has recently attracted much -attention; and Mr. Andrew Lang, in his _Valet's Tragedy_, once even -went so far as to suggest that de la Cloche was "The Man with the Iron -Mask." This theory he afterwards abandoned; but it is still stoutly -maintained by Miss Edith Carey in her beautiful volume on the Channel -Islands. It is remarkable, indeed, that James de la Cloche disappears -finally from history after November 16, 1668, whilst "The Man with the -Iron Mask" makes his first appearance on the scene on July 19, 1669. -De la Cloche may also, when in London, have easily learned secrets -from his father, as to Romish plots, that imperilled the crown of -Charles II., and may well have caused anxiety to Louis XIV. "Doubts," -says Miss Carey, "may be cast on a theory which involves an apparently -affectionate father consigning his son to a living tomb, and a King of -France spending money and trouble to keep a King of England's secret. -But in reply it must be urged that Charles's conduct is consistent -with all we read in history respecting his cowardly selfishness. In -reply to complaints made to him of Lauderdale's cruelty in Scotland, -he said: 'I perceive that Lauderdale has been guilty of many bad -things against the people of Scotland, but I cannot find out that he -has acted against my interests.'" - -Charles' headquarters, when a boy in Jersey, were in Elizabeth Castle, -whither he was sent by his father for greater safety in 1646. Later in -the same year he left for Fontainebleau, but returned to the Channel -Islands in September, 1649. In the meanwhile the elder Charles had -perished on the scaffold at Whitehall; and Jersey, unlike Guernsey, -still loyalist to the core, was one of the few places--Pontefract -Castle, in Yorkshire, was another--where his son was immediately -proclaimed as King, on February 17, 1649. Elizabeth Castle itself is -another of those picturesque places of semi-insulation that are not -uncommon among historical sites--Holy Island, and the two Mounts St. -Michael, are other famous examples. At time of low water it is -picturesquely approached by a rough and rocky causeway across the -sands; but the building itself has been greatly altered, and presents -very little archæological interest. - -From St. Helier westward, round the half-moon curve of St. Aubin Bay, -past West Park, Millbrook, and Beaumont, is now largely a crescent of -continuous houses. St. Aubin's itself is a picturesque little -watering-place, with far greater natural advantages than its bigger -neighbour. Immediately to the south of the town begins at once the -fine, red line of granite cliffs, which, turning definitely westward -at Noirmont Point, continues, past Portelet and St. Brelade's Bays, to -the south-west corner of the island at Corbière Point. Portelet Bay is -a charming recess, with the rocky little Ile au Guerdain in its -centre. On the summit of this last is Janvrin's Tower. It is said that -Philippe Janvrin, returning home from Nantes, then desolated with -plague, was forced to undergo quarantine in this bay in 1721; and that -here the poor wretch died within actual sight of home, but without -ever exchanging a word with his wife and children. He was buried at -first in the Ile au Guerdain, but afterwards removed to St. Brelade's -churchyard. - - [Illustration: LA CORBIÈRE LIGHTHOUSE, JERSEY. - The white tower stands at the extremity of a particularly dangerous - reef.] - -St. Brelade's Bay, nearly two miles across, if we measure from Le Fret -to La Moye Point, is perhaps the most gracious on the Jersey coast. -The church has a very picturesque outline, with a saddle-backed tower -like that of St. Sampson's, in Guernsey. It was admirably restored a -few years ago, when the plaster was stripped from the vaulted roof -that is common to most old churches in the Channel Islands, and is -probably analogous to the vaulted roofs of the fortified churches of -Pembrokeshire. Mr. Bicknell, however, is wrong in saying that "the -interior walls ... look very dignified in their original condition." -Nothing is more certain than that medieval churches--at any rate in -cases where the walls are of rubble masonry--were plastered, and -commonly covered with wall-paintings. Such plastering and old -wall-painting may still be found at St. Brelade's in the Chapelle ès -Pécheurs, or Fishermen's Chapel, that remains in the parish -churchyard. These, according to Mr. Keyser, represent parts of two -Dooms or Final Judgments, Our Lord before Herod, an Annunciation, the -Assumption of the Virgin, and the Offering of the Magi. They probably -date from the fifteenth century, and the attendant makes them visible -by the simple expedient of throwing the light on them with a mirror. -The existence of this old chapel side by side with the parish -church--the same thing seems formerly to have happened at -Grouville--is a subject of curious inquiry. Chantrey chapels were -sometimes built in churchyards--there is still a fourteenth-century -example at Carew, in Pembrokeshire, and there was formerly one at -Newdigate, in Surrey--but these would be generally of later date; -whereas the Fishermen's Chapel is supposed to date from quite the -beginning of the twelfth century. In the grounds of the St. Brelade's -Hotel is an ancient cross of the kind that is stated by Mr. Bicknell -formerly to have "stood at nearly every place where four cross roads -met in the island." - - [Illustration: THE NEEDLE ROCK, GRÈVE AU LANÇON, JERSEY.] - -The walk across the south coast of Jersey, from Mont Orgueil to the -Corbière, taking the train for the four dull miles, where there is -nothing to see, between St. Helier and St. Aubin, will probably almost -exhaust, except for the archæologist of the Dry-as-Dust school, the -artificial attractions of the island of Jersey. Of course, there are -other antiquities to see: St. Ouen's Manor, for example, now recently -restored, and the ancient house of the Carterets; the cromlechs at -Gorey and the Coupéron; and the seven old churches that we have not -yet visited. But when we have seen the wall-paintings at St. Brelade's -and St. Clement's; have inspected Elizabeth Castle, and the curious -font at Prince's Tower; and, above all, have made every stick and -stone of Mont Orgueil our own treasured possession, it will be time -for most of us to turn our attention, less to the artificial -attractions of Jersey, than to its wonderful natural beauties. It is -lucky that these lie mostly on the north coast, which is well out of -reach of St. Helier. It would be sad indeed if this silent succession -of bays, stretching in stern sublimity from Grosnez Point to the long -useless breakwater on the south of Fliquet Bay, were infested with -tea-gardens, and boarding-houses, and villas. For this twelve miles of -coast is both wholly unspoilt, and one of the loveliest imaginable. -Brakes, no doubt, in the season, with their hordes of jolly trippers, -invade for a few hours the sacred silences of Grève de Lecq and Rozel -Bay. These, however, are limited to definite times and places; nor -will it be hard for the quiet lover of Nature to evade their unwelcome -gaieties. Every inch of this glorious stretch of coast should be -walked over, if possible; should often be revisited; and should be -lingered over lovingly. Where else have these rose-red cliffs a -counterpart, jutting out into the bluest, or most emerald, of seas, -and haunted by myriads of clanging sea-fowl, unless it be on the -borders of lost Lyonesse? Waters that rest on a granite bed are always -of amazing translucency-- - - Pleased to watch the waters sleep, - Round Iona green and deep-- - -and those that never rest round the igneous cliffs of Jersey are no -exception to this beautiful rule. Here and there, of course, the -explorer will come across some special point of interest, though the -coast, to be enjoyed at its best, must always be enjoyed as a whole. -At Grève de Lecq is a cave to visit which thoroughly entails some very -rough scrambling, and some rather giddy climbing up an almost vertical -cliff. Less than two miles to the east, as the crow flies--it adds to -the distance enormously to follow all the sinuosities of this deeply -indented coast--is the Creux-du-Vis, or Devil's Hole--one of those -strange, roofless caverns, connecting with the sea by a tunnel through -which the tide ebbs and flows, but set back some little distance from -the margin of the cliff, that are found again in Sark, in the Creux -Derrible and Pot. In many respects they resemble the famous -"pot-holes" that occur in the mountain limestone of the Craven -district in North-West Yorkshire, though their origin, it is clear, is -wholly different. Creux, of course, is connected with the French -_creuser_, to dig; and "derrible," which has nothing whatever to do -with "terrible," is an old Norman word, unknown to modern French, that -really expresses the same idea: "Cavité d'un rocher formée par un -éboulement de terre, attenant à un précipice." "Creux" is used again -of artificial cromlechs. East of the Creux-du-Vis is the Mouriers -Waterfall, where a little stream leaps down the rocks into the sea. -The path along the cliff is rather giddy, and those who take it must -remember that a slip may be followed by fatal consequences, like the -accident that happened to Mrs. Guille, in 1871, at the Gouffre, in -Guernsey. The steep grass slopes in spring are plentifully sprinkled -with the dainty yellow blossoms of the little wild narcissus. Beyond -Sorel Point comes suddenly the deep hollow of La Houle, guarded by -granite cliffs of sheer sublimity; and beyond this, in long -succession, round innumerable intervening points, come Mourier, and -Bonne Nuit, and Giffard, and Bouley, and Rozel, and Fliquet Bays. A -week may well be spent, and more than a week, in leisurely exploration -of this gloriously broken coast. Or the visitor who has less energy, -or is weary of much scrambling, may sit here day after day in the -sunshine, on promontory or cliff, watching the "blind wave" at its -never-ending business of "feeling round its ocean hall." There are -less pleasant ways than this of spending a summer holiday for those -whose brains are fagged by weeks of dull work in London. And always -across the water, far-seen on the dim horizon, are the faint grey -lines of the Cotentin, and the cliffs of fairy-like Sark. - - - - - [Illustration: THE PEA STACKS (TAS DE POIS), JERBOURG, GUERNSEY. - Isolated and wall-sided masses of rock of this type are typical of - the Channel Islands.] - - - - -CHAPTER II - -GUERNSEY - - -Jersey, with larger acreage and a bigger population, is content to -form a kingdom by itself; Guernsey is fain to ally itself with its -immediate neighbour, Sark, and even seek bonds of union with Alderney, -twenty miles away. The diversity maintained jealously in these little -islands, which an Englishman is too hastily accustomed to regard in a -lump, is complex and even amusing. Just a few trivial details must -suffice. In Guernsey the toad is altogether unknown, except for some -few stuffed specimens in the Guille-Allès Museum; whereas Jersey -exhibits an exaggerated species that is supposed to be quite peculiar -to itself. The mole, again, though common in Jersey and Alderney, is -unknown in Guernsey, though the last has a field-vole of its own. -Guernsey, in fact, is supposed to have become an island at least -14,000 years ago, whilst Jersey was torn asunder from France not -more than 3,000 years before Christ. Guernsey thus received only the -Continental fauna that flourished at the period of its final -insulation. All the islands, like Iceland, are exempt from poisonous -snakes. In domestic animals, again, the distinction is strongly -marked. Jersey has a picturesque cow of its own, mottled white and -yellow, placid, and rather big. Guernsey, on the other hand, has a -smaller breed of cattle, much more wiry in movement, and a kind of -tawny red. Beasts from Guernsey and Alderney are allowed to -inter-breed, but the Jersey cattle are looked on as undesirable -aliens, and sternly prohibited from the sister State. In all three -instances the cattle are tethered when at pasture, as happens also in -some parts of France. The animal, thus driven to forage in a circle, -perhaps crops the ground more closely than when free to range at will. - - [Illustration: MOULIN HUET, GUERNSEY. - A particularly attractive bay on the southern side of the island.] - -Guernsey, whatever were its merits half-a-hundred years ago, will now, -perhaps, be found the dullest of the Channel Islands. Owing to the -frenzy for intensive cultivation, the inland parts of the island are -now literally covered with glass. Acre after acre of ugly rows of -hothouses have displaced over most of the interior what once were -pleasant fields. Attached to each such settlement is an ugly concrete -house, and each has a skeleton iron windmill, for pumping up water, -that completes the repellent aspect of the scene. The writer has -travelled over most of the island on foot to explore its twelve old -churches, and investigate its coast. Frankly, he is driven to put on -record that he found it a dismal task. Features, of course, remain of -interest and beauty, if one is willing to walk about in blinkers, and -seldom raise one's eyes above the ground. The old, granite-built -farmhouses, standing back, as a rule, but a little from the road, are -uncommon, and extremely picturesque. Inland Guernsey, again, possesses -one single glory that is almost unknown in Jersey. Everywhere in the -island, commencing even with the very suburbs of St. Peter Port -itself, the low, green, sod walls that divide the little fields are -covered with millions of saffron primroses. Such a wealth of primroses -I have never seen elsewhere--not even in the remotest lanes of the -Surrey or Sussex Wealds. How the primrose has survived in such -excessive fertility, with so huge a population, and with such bitter -cultivation, is a problem easily stated, but not very easily solved. -Whether it is likely long to survive is a question one fears to ask. -In Sark, again, the primrose--though here it is no marvel--carpets the -ground like daisies on a "wet bird-haunted English lawn"; like -daisies, too, in Switzerland, the stalks of the Sark primrose grow to -remarkable length. But as soon as we cross to Jersey--and when the -writer noted this strong contrast, he crossed directly from Guernsey -to Jersey, and almost directly from Jersey to Sark--the primrose is -seen no more by thousands in the hedge-side. The only spot where I -have noticed it growing in profusion in the larger island was on the -prehistoric "hougue" at Prince's Tower. - -Guernsey, however, though thus irritatingly spoilt in its -interior--for the visitor comes to see beautiful scenery, and not to -assist at a horticultural triumph--still possesses in its south coast -a feature of distinction that neither recklessness nor greed of money -has so far been able to spoil. It also possesses in St. Peter Port a -capital so pleasant, and withal so picturesque, that it makes one -desiderate all the more keenly the beautiful environment in which it -was once set. Approaching this port in the early morning light, the -colour and grouping of the little town seem almost fantastically -correct. Surely this more resembles an imaginary sketch than a city -actually realized in this commonplace, workaday world. St. Peter's -Church, in the middle of the picture, has just the required outline, -and is set in just the right place. The tall, brown houses behind it, -with their mellow red roofs, are of just the right colour, and in just -the right number. The new church of St. Barnabas is just rightly -designed, and is built just exactly where it ought to be built. And -lastly, the wooded amphitheatre behind all, with its sprinkling of -white villas, is just neither more nor less than such a background -ought to be. A composition like this on the drop-scene of a theatre -would scarcely surprise us, but here we rub our eyes. We land; and the -cheerful anticipation of the sea-view is hardly hurt at all by contact -with actual fact. A pleasanter little town than this, or more full of -bustling happiness, is not readily conceived. Darker aspects no doubt -are there, but they do not obtrude on the casual view. - -Castle Cornet, immediately on our left as we approach the harbour, -holds much the same position to St. Peter Port as Elizabeth Castle -holds to St. Helier. Castle Cornet, indeed, is connected with the -mainland by a causeway; but as a building it is equally uninteresting. -In fact, the only object of antiquarian interest in St. Peter Port is -the old parish church, so conspicuous on the quay. This has a central -tower, with a good leaded spire, that is luckily not twisted like the -leaded spire at Chesterfield. At the side is a small cote for the -sanctus bell, exactly as at Barnstaple, in Devonshire. More frequently -these cotes were placed on the east gable of the nave, whilst at -Oxenton, in Gloucestershire, the sanctus bell swings to the present -day in a curious little opening high up on the south face of the -fifteenth-century tower. It is possible, too, or even probable, that -the curious "low-side" windows--once absurdly called "leper -windows"--which generally occur, when they occur at all, towards the -south-west corner of the chancel, were used to enable the sanctus bell -to be rung through their opening by hand. On the ringing of this bell -the passer-by would bow his head in reverential awe, just as the -peasants in Millet's picture bow their heads at the ringing of the -Angelus. Inside, the chief feature of St. Peter's Church is the -strangeness of the nave arcades, the arches of which spring from -piers that are only two or three feet high. Notice also the Flamboyant -tracery of the windows, so typical of the Channel Islands, and the -very striking piscina in the south aisle of the choir. - -Historically the chief interest of Guernsey is comparatively recent, -and centres round the residence here of Victor Hugo. After the _Coup -d'État_ Hugo settled first in Jersey, where he occupied a house in -Marine Terrace. But the English Government, which maintained friendly -relations with the new French Imperialism, pleased him little better -than that of his native land. His conduct, indeed, was as wantonly -tactless as that of an earlier fellow-poet. If Shelley flaunted his -tract on the _Necessity of Atheism_ in the face of grave clerical dons -at Oxford, Hugo and his comrades were equally reckless when they -imagined that _la justice_ or _la verité_ were wronged. "Encore un -pas," cried this enthusiast bravely, "et l'Angleterre sera une annexe -de l'Empire français, et Jersey un canton de l'arrondissement de -Coutances." The occasion of this outbreak was the banishment of three -of his compatriots from the island in 1855. "Et maintenant," thundered -the poet in retort, "expulsez nous." Whether he intended it or not, -he was taken at his word. The protest was written on October 17, 1855, -and Friday, November 2, 1855, saw the expulsion of the whole band, 33, -who had signed the defiant document. Hugo at once removed to St. -Peter Port, and established himself there in Hauteville House. Here he -resided from 1855 to 1870, when Sedan rendered possible his return to -France, and the house still belongs to his family. To the Guernsey -visitor it is now a place of pious pilgrimage, not less than that -other old house, in Paris, in the charming Place des Vosges. Much of -the furniture and fittings remains almost exactly as he left them -fifty years ago, and much is of real historic interest. Thus a table -in the Red Dining-room once belonged to Charles II. of England; whilst -a fire-screen was worked by Madame Pompadour, and some bead-work -belonged to Queen Christina of Sweden. From the upper windows it is -possible to enjoy the same lovely view towards Sark, with Jethou and -Herm in the middle distance, that is got from all the upper parts of -St. Peter Port--as, for instance, from the grounds of the Priaulx -Library, or from the gardens of the Old Government House Hotel. - -It is pleasanter to picture Victor Hugo at Guernsey, writing here his -novel, _Les Travailleurs de la Mer_--the scene of which is laid at -Torteval, in the extreme south-west corner of the island--and always -looking longingly towards the invisible shores of France, than to -dwell on certain other episodes in the history of the island, which, -however disagreeable, cannot lightly be put aside. The tale of Bailiff -Gaultier de la Salle, though wholly misconceived, will not quickly be -displaced from its niche in island tradition. He is said to have -resided in the Ville au Roi, though it is hardly likely that the house -now pointed out as his is really as old as the fourteenth century. A -neighbour called Massey had an easement to draw water which took him -in front of the Bailiff's windows. Annoyed at this invasion of his -treasured privacy, Gaultier laid a trap to get rid of the intruder. -Doubtless he had read the old history of Joseph, and of the silver cup -that was hidden in the corn-sack of Benjamin. But Gaultier's intention -was far less kindly, and he concealed the two silver cups in Massey's -wheat-rick in order that Massey might be accused of their theft. Here -is some deep confusion in the story, for we should naturally have -expected that the discovery of the wine-cups would be made the -machinery for fixing the crime on the victim. Why else should the cups -be hidden in Massey's wheat-rick, when they might easily have been -hidden in some much surer place? Anyhow, the Bailiff, suborning -perjured evidence, fixed so black a case on Massey that the Judge -pronounced sentence of death. Then, at the last moment, there burst -into the court-house a witness who had found the cups that very -morning in taking down the rick. Whatever evidence had procured the -condemnation of Massey might well have seemed quadrupled by this new -and damning fact. But the inconsistent story makes the Bailiff exclaim -in anger: "Thou wretch, did I not tell thee not to touch that rick?" -Convicted thus by the words of his own mouth, the Bailiff was sent to -the self-same death as he had schemed for a fellow-citizen. The place -of his execution--an oblong recess in the wall, not unlike those in -which road-makers break stones--is still pointed out at the -"Friquet-au-Gibet"; and a rudely-scratched cross on the pavement near -at hand indicates the spot where the criminal received his last -Communion on the way to the gallows. Miss Edith Carey styles this -story "pure invention," and thinks that it "is probably derived from -a confused recollection of the doings and motives of the rival 'wicked -Bailiff' of Jersey, Hoste Nicolle." There was really, however, as Miss -Carey establishes, a Gaultier (Walter) de la Salle, who was condemned -to death in 1320 for having assisted in imprisoning a certain Ranulph -Gaultier in Castle Cornet, "and there wickedly killing him by various -tortures." - - [Illustration: HERM AND JETHOU FROM GUERNSEY. - These two little islands add greatly to the picturesqueness of the - scenery of the eastern shores of Guernsey.] - -Another dark picture, and unhappily more authentic, is the burning, -with attendant circumstances of extraordinary brutality, of three poor -heretic women, by order of Dean Amy and Bailiff Helier Gosselin, on -July 18, 1556. The mother, Katherine Cauches, was tied to a stake in -the middle, with a married daughter on either hand--Guillemine Gilbert -and Perotine Massey. An attempt was made to strangle them before the -faggots were lighted--a merciful privilege that was also extended to -women in executions for "petty treason"--but one of them, at least, -fell alive into the fire. This poor wretch, Perotine Massey, the wife -of a Protestant pastor, was delivered of a baby in the middle of the -flames. The child was rescued from the burning by a man called House, -but cast back again by order of the Bailiff. This repulsive -incident is preserved by Foxe, and is interwoven by Tennyson in _Queen -Mary_: - - Sir, in Guernsey, - I watch'd a woman burn; and in her agony, - The mother came upon her--a child was born-- - And, sir, they hurl'd it back into the fire. - -St. Peter Port is an admirable centre from which to visit every -quarter of the compact little island; but, indeed, as already -adumbrated, there is but little in Guernsey (except for the -antiquarian) that is really worth seeing outside its capital, except -the south coast. St. Sampson's may be visited for its picturesque -church, which is one of the oldest and most interesting on the island. -The road by which we gain it is so ugly--one continued line of -houses--that no one need hesitate to use the electric tram, which was -one of the earliest of its kind in the British dominions. It is hardly -worth while to get out on the way to visit the poor remains of Ivy -Castle: the situation of the ruins is unusually unpicturesque, and the -ruins themselves are uninteresting. Opposite St. Sampson's itself, -across the busy little harbour, is the rather better ruin of Vale -Castle. This would be exceedingly pleasant to look on, were it not -for the mammoth granite-quarries that pave the streets of -Westminster, but effectually disfigure what were once the charms of -Guernsey. The Castle itself, like Ivy Castle, is little more than a -shell; in fact, the latter has the additional credit of what is -possibly a chapel, with a rudely vaulted stone roof. Ivy Castle, -moreover, boasts at least authentic pedigree, having first been -built--if the date be really right--by Robert, Duke of Normandy, -before the Norman Conquest; whereas of the origin of Vale Castle -practically nothing is known. Its ancient title, Le Château de St. -Michel l'Archange, is perhaps responsible for the tradition that it -was built by monks from Mont St. Michel as a place of protection for -the neighbouring priory in case of a sudden invasion. From Vale -Castle, if we like, we may cross the island--here less than a couple -of miles broad--to Vale Church, built on the edge of what was once a -sea-creek, but has long since silted up, or been reclaimed. It is -pleasanter, however, to follow round the coast, past Bordeaux Harbour, -and across breezy L'Ancresse Common, especially as this takes us past -the L'Autel de Déhus, and the L'Autel des Vardes, the two finest -remaining dolmens in the Channel Islands. The finest of all is -supposed to have been that which was discovered behind St. Helier in -1785, and which was "unanimously voted" to the then Governor, Marshal -Conway, "in a moment of enthusiasm." The Marshal, unfortunately, in -another moment of enthusiasm, carried it off and re-erected it at his -country seat in Berkshire. These Channel Island dolmens are of wholly -different type from the familiar cromlechs of the mushroom pattern of -Kits Coty House, near Aylesford, or of Pentre Evan, in Pembrokeshire. -They are, in fact, considerable, stone-built, subterranean -burial-chambers, with traces in some instances of a long succession of -interments. The islanders call them "pouquelayes"; which is derived by -Miss Carey from either the Celtic _pwca_, a fairy, and _lies_, a -place, or from _pouq_, an excavation, and _lekh_, a stone. In this -connection it is interesting that they are supposed to be haunted by -fairies--one is called the Creux des Fées, and another the Roche à la -Fée--who are supposed to "bring ill-luck on those who interfere with -them, a fact which has saved many of them from the spoiler." "The -restorer, however," adds Mr. Bicknell dryly, "has unfortunately not -been idle, and the Little People do not appear to have found a -punishment to 'fit the crime' in this case." Unhappily the same must -be admitted in the case of the navvies employed on the harbour works -in Alderney, who "amused themselves by smashing up all the megaliths -that they could lay their hands on." Many of the relics from these -cist-vaens--bones and pottery--have found their way into the Lukis -Museum at St. Peter Port. - -Vale church itself, not far from the Grand Havre, and in a flat, -unlovely neighbourhood, is possibly the most interesting, -architecturally, in the island. The chancel arch should be noticed, -with its chevron ornament; the chancel, vaulted in two compartments (in -contrast with the rude, pointed vaults of most of the other churches); -the piscina in the aisle; and the wall arcade. Another striking -feature is the brackets for images on the columns of the arcade, -between the nave and its aisle. A series like this is uncommon; though -there is a group of churches in West Yorkshire--sometimes supposed to -have been built by the Tempest family--Kirkby Malham is the -finest--which has traces of canopied niches in the same position. The -finest single niche that the writer knows of this kind is on the -south side of the nave in the fine, fifteenth-century church of -Lechlade, in Gloucestershire. Towards the west end of the churchyard -is another tumble-down dolmen. Thus Christians of the twentieth -century are buried in the same soil that received the bones of their -neolithic ancestors no one knows how many thousands of years ago. - - [Illustration: A FIELD OF CHRYSANTHEMUMS IN GUERNSEY. - The climate encourages the growing of flowers, and the northern half - of the island is mostly devoted to this industry.] - -Though Vale is not uninteresting, it is with a feeling of relief that -one turns one's back on this north corner of the island that once -perhaps was so beautiful, but is now so hopelessly spoilt. The glory -of Guernsey, as already stated, is now wholly confined to its south -coast. Moulin Huet is a gracious bay, too well known from photographs -to need further description; whilst the little Saints Bay to the west -of it--a shrine within a shrine--is almost equally charming. Westward -from Icart Point, itself a splendid promontory, the coast sweeps round -in another great curve to La Moye Point; beyond which, again, to -Pleinmont, at the south-west corner of the island, the cliffs, though -everywhere deeply indented, continue, on the whole, a more uniform -direction. The great hollow between Icart and La Moye Points is -apparently nameless, unless it be Icart Bay. There is no authoritative -Ordnance map of the Channel Islands, to which one might adhere -whether right or wrong; and the best map of Guernsey with which I am -acquainted, in the late Mr. C. B. Black's guide-book, gives the name -Icart to the eastern recess of the great main bay, and Petit Bot and -Portelet to the two small recesses to the west of it. Anyhow, Petit -Bot is the most secret and intimate of the three, and entirely -picturesque with its disused mill and martello tower. This is one of -the points on the coast to which the chars-à-bancs descend from St. -Peter Port; and the drive down the glen by which we approach it is -delightful. The next calling point is Le Gouffre, just beyond La Moye -Point, which here runs out into the sea in long ribs of warm red -granite. Here the cars generally halt for a couple of hours, whilst -the tripper feasts on lobster in the pleasant little inn. The Gouffre -may be taken as roughly the centre of the grand seven miles of cliff -line of this splendid south coast. The section hence to the west is -less frequently explored, though the picturesque cave of the Creux -Mahie, again roughly halfway, is often paid a visit, and is well worth -visiting. Pleinmont and Torteval come into the "Toilers of the Deep"; -and this corner of the island, the farthest of all from St. Peter -Port, is luckily less injured than the rest. The north-west coast of -Guernsey, from Pleinmont Point to Vale, past the huge sweeping -hollows--some of them singularly symmetrical--of Rocquaine, Perelle, -Vazon, and Cobo Bays, is chiefly a matter of rocky beach and of slight -elevations shelving down in gentle declivity to the sea. The -glass-houses, moreover, which have languished much at Torteval, -flourish again in amazing vigour as we draw near Cobo Bay. There are -two points of interest, however, in this corner of the island that -justify even the dull, direct journey by which we approach them from -St. Peter Port. The first of these is the little Chapel of St. -Apolline, which is stated in all the guide-books, on documentary -evidence, to have been founded by Nicolas Henry in 1394, or -thereabouts. Even documentary evidence, in architectural matters, is -not always to be trusted. Only the day before writing these lines the -writer was re-visiting the Lady Chapel at St. Albans Cathedral, which -is said to have been built--again on documentary evidence--_circa_ -1310; though the Inventory lately published by the Royal Commission on -Historical Monuments adds cautiously: "The tracery of these windows -... is very advanced in character for the date." The tracery, indeed, -is so advanced, if the date be really right, as hopelessly to confuse -all previously held notions as to the systematic evolution of English -architecture. That the building was at any rate finished by this date -is altogether incredible. I notice that the late Lord Grimthorpe, in -his pugnacious little handbook, after setting out the evidence from -the Abbey Records, adds significantly, "but the style of the windows -suggests a much later date." And the case is much the same with this -Chapel of St. Apolline. On October 13, 1392, Nicolas Henry received -permission from the monastery of Mont St. Michel, in Normandy, to -alienate certain fields to provide an endowment for the Chapel of -Notre Dame de la Perelle, _which he had recently erected_; and in an -Act of the Royal Court, dated June 6, 1452, we come across the phrase, -"La Chapelle de Notre Dame de la Perelle appellée la Chapelle Sainte -Apolline." Certainly the identification seems complete. On the other -hand, the writer believes that no one visiting this chapel who has -previously read Professor Baldwin Brown's beautiful volume on Saxon -Architecture--and it so happened that the writer paid his first visit -to the Channel Islands almost immediately after its perusal--can fail -to detect in this building quite a number of _criteria_ that are there -set out as indicating, at any rate in England, a pre-Conquest era of -building. Unfortunately I have kept no note of these features, but the -impression then made on my mind is vivid. I may, of course, be wrong; -but it seems to me at least possible that we have here the solitary -survivor--far older than the Fishermen's Chapel at St. Brelade's in -Jersey--of those many chapels that are known to have been built in the -Channel Islands in the eighth and ninth centuries by the successors of -St. Magloire. - - [Illustration: THE COUPÉE, SARK. - A romantic and almost terrifying pathway among the precipitous rocks - of the island.] - -The other point of interest in the neighbourhood of L'Erée is the -rocky islet of Lihou, approached by a causeway across the sands, or -more properly the rocks, but only at low tide. Here are the scanty -fragments of the Priory and Chapel of Notre Dame de la Roche, -apparently a cell to the monastery of Mont St. Michel, which seems to -have had so much to do with the spiritual matters of the Channel -Islands. The tide at St. Michael's Mount is said to rush up across the -level sands more quickly than the fleetest horse can gallop, and -visitors to Lihou will be well advised to remember that here again -its onset is unexpected and swift. At L'Erée village is another -dolmen, the Creux des Fées, to which passing allusion has already been -made. St. Peter's Church in this neighbourhood--in full, St. Pierre du -Bois--is perhaps the handsomest, though not necessarily the most -interesting, of all the twelve churches in the island, and exhibits -some Flamboyant work of a very pleasing character. - - - - -CHAPTER III - -ALDERNEY, SARK, AND THE LESSER ISLANDS - - -Hitherto, in dealing with the two larger of the Channel Islands, we -have found their claims to natural beauty in their coasts. The -interior of Jersey is no doubt pleasant, with its lush-green valleys -running north and south, with its quiet little villages, and with its -never-ending potato-fields. The interior of Guernsey, on the other -hand, is frankly hideous, save here and there a cottage, or a -picturesque old farm, hidden in the folding of some safely secluded -dell. But in both cases alike the real distinction of the island is -limited to cliffs that for warmth of colour and strangeness of -contortion can surely be paralleled in Cornwall alone. Sark, on the -contrary, is almost wholly coast; the interior in comparison is a -negligible quantity! And almost as much may be said of Alderney. Both -these islands are exceedingly small--Sark being only a trifle more -than three miles in length, and about one and three-quarters of a mile -in breadth (measuring, not precisely from east to west, but at right -angles to the axis); and Alderney being about three and a half miles -in length, from north-east to south-west, and one and a quarter miles -in breadth. Alderney is undoubtedly the less beautiful of the two, and -is probably by far the least frequently visited of all the different -members of the Norman archipelago. The voyage from St. Peter Port, in -a very small boat, and made only two or three times in a week, is -dreaded, and not without reason, by those for whom rough seas have no -welcome. Alderney, again, is the least foreign of the Channel Islands -in local colour, though nearest France in situation; and here the old -Norman patois has been entirely replaced by English. It possesses in -its capital, St. Anne, a small, old-fashioned country town that is -wholly without parallel anywhere else in the islands. The harbour is -at Braye, a short mile north from the centre of the town; and the -visitor, in strong contrast with what happens at Sark, is landed in -the least romantic corner of the island. Of the old church nothing now -remains but a picturesque tower, and even this does not seem to be -mediæval. The new church was erected from designs by Sir Gilbert -Scott, and is, perhaps, the most striking modern building in the -Channel Islands. The interior of Alderney, or Aurigny, to use the -French form-- - - Her crew hath seen Castile's black fleet, beyond Aurigny's isle-- - -is strongly individualized, and rather wild and remote. One feels at -once that this little island has a flavour of its own--a state of -things no longer felt among the villadom and glass-houses of Guernsey. -The strength of Alderney, however, lies chiefly in its west and south -coasts; no one would visit the island except to visit these, or unless -one happened to be an enthusiast for the world's neglected and -inaccessible spots. I do not know how far the barbarous quarrying that -was projected some six or seven years ago on the south side of the -island has since been carried out, or how far it has injured the -amenities of the coast. Anyhow, the Two Sisters, towards the -south-west corner of the island, are hardly to be rivalled in their -splintered grandeur, even in Jersey or Sark. - -To Sark we come at last in our long exploration of the Channel -Islands, and for Sark we may well be content to have waited patiently, -and to have wandered far. For this, by universal acclamation, is -certainly the gem of the whole group. Already we have often seen it in -the distance--a long, level line of cliff (save where broken by the -Coupée)--from the north coast of Jersey, or from the piers at St. -Peter Port. Now, as we approach it more closely, threading the narrow -strait between Herm and Jethou, and doubling the cliffs of Little Sark, -at the south corner of the island, this hitherto unbroken, monotonous -wall begins to resolve itself into an infinity of broken cliffs and -promontories, isolating and half concealing a thousand fairy-like -bays. Surely nowhere else is another coast like this--everywhere so -irregular in its general trend and outline--everywhere so deeply -bitten into by the mordant unrest of the sea. Sark, we have said -already, is little else than coast; and certainly it is the coast -which first arrests and charms us, and the coast which lingers last -and most clearly in our memory, when other impressions begin to be -obliterated, or vanish altogether in the steady lapse of years. Not a -yard of this gracious girdle of cliff is monotonous, or repeats -itself, or is even grim (as parts of the coast of Alderney are grim), -or is relatively less interesting, or less beautiful, or dull; -everywhere and always it is singularly lovely, and everywhere and -always at the same high pitch. There is really very little to be said -about Sark, except that the whole island is beautiful throughout: -there is nothing to be gained by giving a long catalogue of successive -promontories, caves, and bays. It was thus that Olivia made a schedule -of her beauty--"_item_, two lips indifferent red; _item_, two grey -eyes, with lids to them; _item_, one neck, one chin, and so -forth"--and at the end of the inventory we have no better picture of -the real Olivia than before she was thus appraised in detail. - - [Illustration: THE SISTER ROCKS, ALDERNEY. - This island is generally ignored by visitors to the group, but the - quaint little town of St. Anne and the fine rocks at the southern end - are quite worth seeing.] - -The history of Sark, for so small an island, is unusually interesting, -and in some respects instructive. It is set out by Miss Carey in an -interesting chapter, and some of its episodes may be summarized here. -Sark, like its sister islands, must have been occupied by neolithic -man, for the remains of two poor dolmens still exist in the island, -and formerly, no doubt, there were very many more. St. Magloire, in -the sixth century, built a chapel and founded a small monastery in -the island, but apparently he found it unpopulated when first he -arrived. In the middle of the fourteenth century the island was -inhabited by a crew of lawless wreckers, who were a menace to the -navigation of the whole Manche. The merchants of Rye and Winchelsea -then put their heads together, and agreed to do by subtlety what they -could not effect by force. Landing on Sark with an armed force must -well-nigh have been impossible, till Helier de Carteret cut his tunnel -through the rocks, when he colonized the island in the reign of Queen -Elizabeth. The merchants, accordingly, constructed a piece of strategy -that may well have been borrowed from the Trojan horse, but in that -case was certainly invested with much ingenious detail of its own. The -story is told by Sir Walter Raleigh in his _History of the World_, -though, as Miss Carey points out, he postdates the incident by some -200 years, and describes it as having occurred to the crew of a -Flemish ship. "Yet by the industry of a gentleman of the _Netherlands_ -[the island] was in this sort regained. He anchored in the Road with -one Ship, and, pretending the death of his Merchant, he besought the -_French_ that they might bury their Merchant in hallowed Ground, and -in the Chapel of that Isle.... Whereto (with Condition that they -should not come ashore with any Weapon, not so much as with a Knife), -the _French_ yielded. Then did the _Flemings_ put a coffin into their -Boat, not filled with a Dead Carcass, but with Swords, Targets, and -Harquebuzes. The French received them at their Landing, and, searching -everyone of them so narrowly as they could not hide a Penknife, gave -them leave to draw their Coffin up the Rocks with great difficulty.... -The Flemings on the Land, when they had carried their Coffin into the -Chapel, shut the Door to them, and, taking their Weapons out of the -Coffin, set upon the French." - -The final settlement of Sark--which the French call Serq--dates only -from the reign of Queen Elizabeth, when Helier de Carteret established -himself on the then deserted island, and planted there forty families, -whom he brought from his native Jersey. He also built a church, and -instituted a Presbyterian Vicar, Cosmé Brevint--being himself a -Presbyterian--who continued to hold office till his death in 1576, -being one who spared, or flattered, no one, "great or small, in his -reprehensions." It is rightly said that the constitution of Sark is -still largely feudal in character. The land is parcelled out into the -original forty holdings, and some of these are said still to be held -by descendants of the original holders. The lord of the island is -still the Seigneur, though the lordship has passed from the hands of -the de Carterets--it is said that they were compelled to part with it -by reason of their lavish expenditure on the thankless Stuart cause. -In the so-called "Battery" at the back of the Manor-House is one of -the old guns that were given by Elizabeth to Helier de Carteret. It is -inscribed, "Don de Sa Majesté la Royne Elizabeth, au Seigneur de Serq, -A.D. 1572." - -Of the smaller islands of the Norman archipelago only a word or two -need be added here. Roughly halfway between Sark and Guernsey, and -separated from each other by a narrow passage that is difficult to -navigate by reason of its hidden rocks and surging tides, are the -small twin islands of Jethou and Herm. The latter is now occupied by a -German Prince, the great-grandson of the famous Prussian leader, the -exact place of whose meeting with Wellington after the field of -Waterloo--whether at Belle Alliance, or farther along the road towards -Genappe--has often been made the topic of historical discussion, and -is anyhow the subject of a well-known picture. Jethou is considerably -the smaller of the two, and is principally devoted to the purpose of a -rabbit-warren. In Herm are some remains of the old Chapel of St. -Tugual, incorporated with the outbuildings of the present manor-house. -Previous to 1770 Herm was inhabited by deer; and Mr. Bicknell tells us -that they "used to take advantage of the tide to swim over to the Vale -in Guernsey to feed, returning on the next tide." Certainly it is -lucky that there are now no deer in Herm, since they would not find -much pasture now at Vale. - -Jethou and Herm belong to Guernsey, and once, no doubt, were -physically parts of it. As seen from St. Peter Port, with Sark dimly -descried on the distant horizon, they still contribute largely to -Guernsey's most charming seascape. Alderney and Sark, again, have each -their attendant isle. Jersey alone, though the biggest of them all, is -a planet without a satellite. The islet peculiar to Sark is Brecqhou, -or the Ile des Marchants, which lies off its west coast, and is -separated from it by the narrow Gouliot Strait, only a few hundred -yards wide. Though measuring more than seventy acres, and possessed of -a small landing-place, it is at present as innocent of human -habitation as was Sark itself immediately before the coming of Helier -de Carteret. Burhou is situated at a considerably greater distance to -the north-west of Alderney, from which it is separated by the -never-resting Swinge. This is, perhaps, the least visited among all -the lesser islands, as is Alderney itself among the major four. - - - - -INDEX - - -_The principal reference is given first after names_ - - Alderney, 54, 32, 46, 53, 57, 61, 62 - - Architecture, 8 - - Amy, Dean, 42 - - - Bailiff Helier Gosselin, 42 - - Bandinel, David, Dean, 13-16 - - Bandinel, James, 16 - - Bandinels and Carterets, quarrel of, 121 - - Beaumont, 24 - - Blücher, Prince, 60 - - Bordeaux Harbour, 44 - - Braye, Alderney, 54 - - Brecqhou, 61 - - Burhou, 62 - - - Cabbage-stalks, giant, 19 - - Carteret, 5, 9 - - Carteret, Helier de, 58, 59, 60, 62 - - Carteret, Lady, 13, 14 - - Carteret, Sir George, 15 - - Carteret, Sir Philip de, 12, 13, 14 - - Castle Cornet, 36, 37, 42 - - Cattle, Guernsey, 33 - - Chantrey chapels, 26 - - Charles II., 22, 23, 24, 39 - - Christina, Queen of Sweden, 39 - - Civil War, the, 13 - - "Clameur de Haro," 7 - - Cloche, James de la, eldest illegitimate son of Charles II., 22 - - Cobo Bay, 49 - - Corbet, Major Moses, 22 - - Corbière Point, 25, 27 - - Coupée, the, Sark, 56 - - Coutances, 5, 7 - - Creux des Fées, 52, 45 - - Creux-du-Vis, or Devil's Hole, 29 - - Creux Mahie, 48 - - Cromlechs, see Dolmens - - - Dolmens, 27, 44, 45, 47, 52, 57 - - Du Guesclin, Bertrand, 17 - - - Elizabeth Castle, 24, 13, 26, 36 - - - Font at Prince's Tower, Jersey, 19 - - French language and patois, 6-7 - - - Gaultier de la Salle, Bailiff, 40, 42 - - Gaultier, Ranulph, 42 - - Gorey, 10 - - Gouffre, the, 30, 48 - - Gouliot Strait, 61 - - Granite quarries, 44 - - Grève de Lecq, 28, 29 - - Grouville, 26 - - Grouville, churches of, 20 - - Guernsey, 30-61 - - Guernsey, south coast of, 47 - - Guillemine, Gilbert, 42 - - - Hauteville House, 39 - - Henrietta Maria, Queen, 11 - - Heretic-burning in Guernsey, 42 - - Herm, 60, 61, 39 - - Hugo, Victor, 38, 39, 40 - - - Icart Bay, 47 - - Icart Point, 47 - - Ile de Guerdain, 25 - - Ile des Marchants, 61 - - Intensive cultivation, 33 - - "Iron Mask, Man with the," 23 - - Ivy Castle, 43, 44 - - - Janvrin's Tower, 25 - - Jersey, 5-31 - - Jersey churches, 18 - - Jersey, coast of, 28 - - Jersey cows, 33 - - Jethou, 61, 39, 60 - - - Kirkby Malham, 46 - - Kit's Coty House, 45 - - - L'Ancresse Common, 44 - - La Houle, 30 - - La Moye Point, 25, 47, 48 - - L'Erée, 51, 52 - - Le Fret Point, 25 - - Lihou, 51 - - Louis XIV., 23 - - Lukis Museum at St. Peter Port, 46 - - - Mabon, Richard, Dean of Jersey, 18 - - Massey, Perotine, 42 - - Millbrook, 24 - - Minquiers, 17 - - Mont Orgueil Castle, 5, 9-19, 27 - - Mont St. Michel, 5, 24, 44, 50, 51 - - Morris, Colonel, 13 - - Moulin Huet, Guernsey, 47 - - Mouriers Waterfall, 30 - - - Navigation of the Jersey Seas, 17 - - Noirmont Point and Bay, 25 - - Norman speech, relics of, 6, 54 - - - Old Government House Hotel, 39 - - Old Priaulx Library, 39 - - - Perelle Bay, 49 - - Petit Bot Bay, 48 - - Pierson, Major, 22 - - Pleinmont, 47, 48, 49 - - Pompadour, Mme., 39 - - Pontefract Castle, 13, 24 - - Portelet Bay (Guernsey), 48 - - Portelet Bay (Jersey), 25 - - Primroses in Guernsey and Sark, 34, 35 - - Prince's Tower, Jersey, 18, 27, 35 - - Priory of Notre Dame de la Roche, 51 - - Prynne, William, 11, 13, 15 - - - Raleigh, Sir W., 58 - - Robert, Duke of Normandy, 44 - - Roche à la Fée, 45 - - Rocquaine Bay, 49 - - Rozel, Jersey, 28, 30 - - Rullecourt, 20, 22 - - - Sacrament, refusal of, 14 - - St. Anne, Alderney, 54 - - St. Apolline Chapel, 49, 50 - - St. Aubin Bay, 24 - - St. Aubin's, 24 - - St. Brelade's Bay, 25 - - St. Brelade's Chapel, 26, 51 - - St. Brelade's Hotel, cross at, 27 - - St. Helier, 21, 9, 22, 24, 45 - - Ste. Marie du Chastel, 21 - - St. Ouen's Bay, 17 - - St. Ouen's Church, 14 - - St. Ouen's Manor, 27 - - St. Peter Port, 34, 35, 36, 37, 39, 43, 54, 61 - - St. Peter's Church, Guernsey, 52 - - St. Sampson's, Guernsey, 25, 43 - - St. Tugual, Chapel of, Herm, 61 - - Saints' Bay, 47 - - Sark, 31, 53-60 - - Sark, the Creux Derrible, 29 - - Sark, the Manor House, 60 - - Scott, Sir Gilbert, 55 - - Serpent legend, a, 18 - - Snakes, absence of, 33 - - Sorel Point, 30 - - Star Chamber, the, 11 - - _Stella_, loss of the, 18 - - Sunday in Jersey, 9 - - Swinge, the, 62 - - - Torteval, 40, 48, 49 - - - Vale Castle, 43, 44 - - Vale Church, 44, 46 - - Vazon Bay, 49 - - - Wall-paintings at St. Brelade's, 26 - - West Park, Jersey, 24 - - Wordsworth, Wm., 6 - - -BILLING AND SONS, LTD., PRINTERS, GUILDFORD. - - - - -AGENTS - - =AMERICA= - THE MACMILLAN COMPANY - 64 & 66 Fifth Avenue, NEW - YORK - - =AUSTRALASIA= - OXFORD UNIVERSITY - PRESS - 205 Flinders Lane, MELBOURNE - - =CANADA= - THE MACMILLAN COMPANY - OF CANADA, LTD. - St. Martin's House, 70 Bond - Street, TORONTO - - =INDIA= - MACMILLAN & COMPANY, - LTD. - Macmillan Building, BOMBAY - 309 Bow Bazaar Street, CALCUTTA - - - PUBLISHED BY - ADAM & CHARLES BLACK - SOHO SQ., LONDON - - - - - -End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of The Channel Islands, by Joseph Morris - -*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE CHANNEL ISLANDS *** - -***** This file should be named 42495-8.txt or 42495-8.zip ***** -This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: - http://www.gutenberg.org/4/2/4/9/42495/ - -Produced by Melissa McDaniel and the Online Distributed -Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This file was -produced from images generously made available by The -Internet Archive) - - -Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions -will be renamed. - -Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no -one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation -(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without -permission and without paying copyright royalties. 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