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diff --git a/42482.txt b/42482.txt deleted file mode 100644 index 57f5242..0000000 --- a/42482.txt +++ /dev/null @@ -1,6992 +0,0 @@ -The Project Gutenberg EBook of A Five Years' Residence in Buenos Ayres, by -George Thomas Love - -This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with -almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or -re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included -with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org - - -Title: A Five Years' Residence in Buenos Ayres - During the years 1820 to 1825 - -Author: George Thomas Love - -Release Date: April 8, 2013 [EBook #42482] - -Language: English - -Character set encoding: ASCII - -*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK FIVE YEARS IN BUENOS AYRES *** - - - - -Produced by Rene Anderson Benitz, Adrian Mastronardi, and -the Online Distributed Proofreading Team at -http://www.pgdp.net - - - - - - - - - - A - FIVE YEARS' RESIDENCE - IN - BUENOS AYRES, - - DURING THE YEARS 1820 to 1825: - - CONTAINING - REMARKS ON THE COUNTRY AND INHABITANTS; - AND A VISIT TO - COLONIA DEL SACRAMENTO. - - - BY AN ENGLISHMAN. - - - _WITH AN APPENDIX_, - CONTAINING - RULES AND POLICE OF THE PORT OF BUENOS AYRES, - NAVIGATION OF THE RIVER PLATE, &c. &c. - - - _SECOND EDITION._ - - - LONDON: - PUBLISHED BY G. HEBERT, 88, CHEAPSIDE. - - 1827. - - - LONDON - Stirling, Printer, 20 Ironmonger Lane, Cheapside. - - - - -PREFACE. - - -At a time when the rich and fertile provinces of South America are daily -becoming increased objects of commercial consideration--when their -riches and advantages are constantly forming the bases of fresh -speculations--and when, under the security offered to person and -property by the liberal institutions of a free and independent -government, communication with them is every hour becoming more -extended,--an illustration of their local affairs, customs, manners, and -people, cannot but be interesting. - -Of these provinces, the one which forms the subject of the following -Remarks is far from being the least important. Without adverting to the -fertility of the soil, and the general healthiness of the climate, the -prospects which Buenos Ayres presents in a mercantile point of view, -forming, as she does, from her situation, the medium of communication -with the whole interior of this vast continent, must ever render her an -object of considerable importance to a commercial nation like England. -Nor is she less a source of interest to the politician and the -philanthropist. To Buenos Ayres is due the credit of setting the noble -example to the other provinces, of bursting asunder the shackles of a -despotic mother-country, whose selfish policy had long immured them -under the deepest veil of ignorance and degradation, debarring them from -any communication with the rest of the world, in order that she might -reap the exclusive advantage of those treasures with which Nature had -enriched them. Nor has Buenos Ayres confined herself to example merely, -but, from the moment of having secured her own independence, she has -never ceased to encourage and assist the other states in throwing off -the same degrading yoke. - -It is true, that preceding works have thrown much light on these -countries, and the subjects I have here handled have been treated by -abler pens than mine; but, besides the expensiveness of those works, -which renders them inaccessible to a great class of readers, the subject -is so new, and embraces such a wide field of research, that an abundant -harvest still remains for fresh labourers. Having confined myself to one -portion of this vast territory, I have been able to enter into a minuter -detail of many things that have been cursorily passed over by preceding -writers; and, finally, having resided in the country which is the -subject of these Remarks during the last five years, my means of -observation have been neither few nor limited. - - - - -CONTENTS. - - - PAGE - The Port--Custom-House Regulations 1 - Visit of the Health Boat 2 - Outer and Inner Roads 3 - Pilots 4 - Port of Ensenada -- - Barraccas -- - Navigation of the River Plate -- - _Balandras_, or lighters, for lading and unlading vessels -- - Carts used for embarking and disembarking -- - - Packets between Buenos Ayres and Monte Video 5 - - Climate 6 - - Diseases 9 - - Environs of the City -- - - Alameda, or Public Walk 10 - - The Beach, crowded with Sailors -- - - Coffee-Houses and Hotels 11 - - Public Buildings: The Fort--Consulado--Cabildo--Bank--House - of Representatives--Custom-House--Public - Library--Botanical Museum--Retiro--Residencia 14 to 16 - - Squares and Streets 16 - - Houses 17 - - Churches 18 - - Theatre 22 - - Circus 33 - - FOREIGN RESIDENTS. - - British: Merchants, Shopkeepers, Medical Men, &c. 33 to 35 - British Commercial Subscription-Room 37 - Establishment of Packets from Falmouth 39 - Dispute between Captain Willis and the Government 41 - Treaty with England 43 - English Females at Buenos Ayres 44 - Many Englishmen have married Buenos-Ayrean Wives 45 - Death of Mr. Dallas, and of Mr. Rowcroft 47 - Death of Jack Hall -- - Irish Yankies 48 - - North-American Residents 49 - Death of Mr. Rodney 51 - - Frenchmen 52 - - Portuguese 53 - - Germans, Italians, Prussians, &c. 54 - -NATIVE (OR CREOLE) AND SPANISH INHABITANTS. - - Persons, Dispositions, and Manners 55 - Compliments of Salutation 57 - Practice of giving Flowers to Visitors -- - Smoking Segars -- - Politeness 58 - Yerba, or Tea of Paraguay 59 - Time of Meals -- - _Siesta_, or Afternoon Nap -- - _Tertulias_, or Public Dances 60 - Sweetmeats much eaten 61 - Etiquette, when walking in public, and in the ball-room -- - Dancing 62 - Music -- - Consulado Musical School-Room 63 - Philharmonics, a Musical Subscription Society 64 - Mothers watch their Daughters with great strictness -- - Marriages take place early 65 - Washerwomen on the Beach 66 - Treatment of Slaves 67 - Superstition of the Negroes 68 - Orderly conduct of the lower orders -- - Beggars very annoying 69 - Savings Bank -- - Propensity to Gaming 70 - Bathing practised by all Classes -- - - Dress 71 - Females make their own Clothes 74 - - Travelling -- - Value and description of the Horses 75 - Arrival of some English Horses in the _Rhoda_ -- - Country Waggons 77 - - Sports and Amusements:--Horse-racing--Sailing-- - Cock-fighting--Hunting--Shooting--Fishing 78 - Throwing the Lasso -- - Annual Fair near the Recolator 79 - - Provisions: Beef--Mutton--Poultry--Wines--Beer 81 to 85 - Vegetables -- - Fruit 86 - Other Animal and Vegetable Productions -- - - Population 89 - - Trade and Manufactures -- - Exports 89 - Imports--List of Vessels that arrived in 1821, 2, 3, 4 90 - Shops in Buenos Ayres very numerous 92 - English Manufactures very cheap 93 - - Currency, &c.--Notes engraved in England 95 - Average of Exchange 96 - Bank of Buenos Ayres--Funds -- - - Education and Literature 97 - College School--Academy in the Merced Church -- - Mrs. Hyne's Seminary -- - Many Buenos Ayreans speak and write English 98 - College of Stonyhurst, near Liverpool 99 - Education of Females -- - Variedades et Mensagero de Londres 100 - Newspapers published in Buenos Ayres 101 - Printing Offices -- - - Religion 102 - Contrast of the Catholic and Protestant faith -- - Reception of an Archbishop, who arrived in 1824 -- - Times of Public Worship 103 - Oration-Time 104 - Music of the Masses -- - Confession 105 - Figures of the Virgin Mary kept in glass cases 106 - Priesthood not illiberal -- - Friars 107 - Suppression of the Monasteries -- - Convents for Nuns 111 - Religious Processions: St. Rosario, and St. Nicholas 113 - Feast of Corpus Christi 113 - Observances during Lent--Passion Week--Holy - Thursday--Good Friday--Burning of Judas 113 to 114 - Procession of the Holy Ghost 117 - - Funeral Ceremonies 119 - Masses for the repose of the Soul -- - Protestant Burying-Ground 120 - - Police, &c. 121 - Assassination very frequent among the lower orders 122 - Thieves ingenious 123 - Boys about the Theatre-door great thieves 124 - Modes of Punishment: Shooting--Public Whipping-- - Imprisonment--Working in the Streets, ironed 126 - A great increase of crime in 1824 -- - First execution for forgery 126 - Committals before Trial 127 - Law proceedings expensive and tardy -- - Passports required to leave Buenos Ayres 128 - - Army--Punishment of flogging resorted to 130 - Bands of Music -- - Custom to fire the Fort Guns on the 4th of July, the - Anniversary of Whitelock's Defeat 131 - - Government, and Public Events 133 - Governor and Public Officers--Junta, or Senate 134 - AEra of the Independence of Buenos Ayres--Celebration - of its Anniversary--Sports of the day 135 - Frequent Political Revolutions in 1820--Rodriguez - appointed Governor 138 - Administration of Rivadavia 139 - Two persons shot for state offences, in October, 1820 141 - Attempt at another Revolution--Execution of Garcia -- - Execution of Colonel Peralto and Urien 142 - Carrera shot at Mendoza 143 - San Martin embarked for England 144 - A day set apart for the Funereal Rites of Gen. Belgrano -- - Visit of a New-Zealand Chief 145 - Dinner on St. Andrew's Day 146 - Camden Packet took home the treaty with England 146 - Rejoicings for the Victory of Ayacucho -- - Arrival of a Brazilian Frigate 148 - Opinion of Foreigners with regard to his Majesty - George IV. of England 148 - Mr. Canning popular in Buenos Ayres 149 - A Triumphal Car paraded through the streets 152 - - Concluding Remarks -- - Great want of population, and consequent insecurity - of the country -- - Ravages of the Indians--Four officers detained and murdered - by them, in 1822--Description of the Indians 154 - Very little employment for Clerks in Buenos Ayres -- - Mechanics and Labourers sure of employment 155 - Farming not a profitable concern -- - Grazing farms more beneficial -- - Emigrants will not find the same comfort as at home 156 - French faction at Buenos Ayres -- - Contrast between Frenchmen and Englishmen -- - Inducements to Emigration 158 - - Colonia del Sacramento 159 - - Appendix.--Rules of the Port 167 - Anchorage Dues 168 - Police of the Port -- - Penalties to which those are subject who destroy the - line of Buoys established by Government 169 - Instructions for sailing from Buenos Ayres to Monte - Video 170 - ---- ---- ---- from Monte Video to Buenos Ayres 172 - Variation of Depth of Water between the Banks Ortiz - and Chico 174 - Positions of the Ten Buoys in the River Plate 175 - - - - -REMARKS DURING _A FIVE YEARS' RESIDENCE_ IN BUENOS AYRES. - - -The city of Buenos Ayres, when viewed from the outer roads at a distance -of about eight miles, has an imposing appearance. The domes of the -numerous churches, the public buildings, &c. give it an air of grandeur, -which a nearer approach diminishes. On landing, the dilapidated mole -(destroyed by the storm of the 21st August, 1820) and the mean streets -near the beach, do not augur well for the beauty of the town: it -requires an inspection rightly to appreciate it, for there are edifices -worthy of attention. When I landed, in October, 1820, two cannons, -forty-two-pounders, in very good condition, were mounted on the mole: -they had the Spanish royal arms engraven on them, and inscriptions, -purporting, that one was cast at Seville, and the other at Lima, some -sixty years since. - -A passenger is not exposed to any particular custom-house obstructions -when he comes on shore. Should he bring his trunks with him, he is -simply requested to open them, and a slight examination takes place. -Several obnoxious customs have lately been abolished. Formerly, a -sentinel was posted, to prevent any one passing to the water-side at -the mole without first asking permission at the guard-house on the -beach. The system of vessels being obliged to wait, upon their arrival, -in the outer roads, for the visit of the health boat from shore, has -also undergone reform. Masters may now leave their vessels immediately. -It is necessary to go on board the gun-brig, which is now stationed in -the inner roads, and there await the visit of the health boat, which -comes off by a signal from this brig, and very little delay occurs. Upon -the old plan, vessels often remained, through bad weather or neglect, -four or five days before they were visited; during which time no -communication was allowed with the shore. A manifest of the cargo, -the ship's papers,[1] letters, &c. are given to the visiting officer, -provided no consul or agent of the nation whose flag the vessel bears -resides in Buenos Ayres. - - [1] The unsettled state of the country formerly deterred masters of - vessels from giving up their registers, fearing they might be lost; - and various shifts were resorted to as substitutes, such as rendering - Mediterranean passes, apprentice indentures, any thing in the shape of - parchment or printing--all went current. Some years since, Matthews, - an adjutant of the port, who had been aid-de-camp to Admiral Gravina, - at the battle of Trafalgar, detected a trick of this sort, the parties - not being aware that he understood English. Matthews was a Spaniard - born, but educated in London. - -The removal of the brig of war from the outer roads has taken away the -occasion of much offence. Disputes were continually occurring, from her -firing at vessels and boats to bring them to. The boat of the Countess -of Chichester, the first packet that arrived from Falmouth, had -two shots fired at her, when going on shore with Mr. Pousset, the -vice-consul. Captain Little, who was on board the packet at the time, -not knowing what to make of this firing, ordered the guns to be -double-shotted, and the crew to get under arms. A representation was -made, and an apology promptly given. Serious misunderstandings, however, -I am persuaded, must, some time or other, have occurred, had the brig -continued outside, and pursued the same system. - -It is only since October, 1821, that the health boat has been regularly -established. The enforcement of the quarantine laws, and the prevention -of smuggling, were the reasons assigned for it; but there were probably -other motives, one of which might be, to prevent the boats of British -men-of-war from boarding vessels of their own nation before their -visit boat. It would, however, be difficult, strictly to enforce the -quarantine laws at Buenos Ayres. Vessels have frequently arrived at -night, or in a fog, and the captains have come on shore without being -visited, not being aware of the regulations. - -The outer and inner roads are, in fact, open roadsteads; neither of them -possessing good anchorage. A strong wind from the E. or S.E. blowing -almost direct on land, is always dangerous; and vessels often drive. -In the storm of the 21st August, 1820, in which sixty vessels of all -descriptions were lost, the wind was at S.E. The winter season is much -better for shipping than the summer; as in the latter, the wind blows -fresh nearly every afternoon from the eastward. Good anchors and cables -are very necessary in the river Plate; chain cables particularly. - -In the outer roads, the average depth of water is 18 feet, in the inner -roads, 18: at high tides, there is 25 feet in the outer, and 13 in the -inner roads. A Pampero wind, blowing off the land from the W. or W.S.W. -causes at times a very low river, leaving not more than 5 feet water in -the inner, and 8 in the outer roads. The banks that divide the roads are -then dry, and people ride on horseback upon them. This extreme low tide -does not often happen. The brig Candidate, salt-laden from the Cape -de Verds, was lost, on the 13th June, 1823, near the Ortiz bank, from -an occurrence of this sort: the water having suddenly left her, she -foundered at her anchors. The state of the tide sometimes causes great -delay to vessels leaving the inner roads; days, and even a week, being -lost at some periods. - -Pilots, appointed and paid by the government, conduct vessels to and -from the outer and inner roads: two of them are Englishmen, Lee and -Robinson; the others are Portuguese and Creolian, who speak a little -English. The charge for pilotage is about 10 dollars each way. Masters -piloting their own vessels, which is now and then the case, do not -thereby save the charges. - -The port of Ensenada, situated 30 miles S.E. from Buenos Ayres, has good -anchorage; and for vessels drawing much water, it is preferable to go -thither. They incur more experience of lighterage, if they require to -be hove down; but it is the only place appertaining to Buenos Ayres in -which it can be done, and the charge is great. Ensenada is only a small, -dull village. Mules are shipped with greater facility there, than at -Buenos Ayres. - -The Barraccas is a creek on the south of the town, in which schooners -and small craft repair their defects. - -The river Plate may well be called the "hell of navigators:" a survey of -it was made by Captain Heywood, in H.M.S. Nereus, and his chart, though -not exactly correct, is considered to be the best. Buoys have been -lately placed by the government upon the Ortiz and Chico banks;[2] and -they have long had in agitation, the building of a mole, a dock for -shipping, and other extensive works. In addition to a French engineer, -a Quaker gentleman, named Bevans, is engaged. He arrived from London, -with his family, in October, 1822; but, for want of means, nothing of -importance has yet been done. Raising moles and docks is no trifling -undertaking, in a country so destitute of labourers. To remedy the -latter defect, 200 Irishmen, it is said, are coming out under the care -of Colonel O'Brien, one of San Martin's officers. Mr. Bevans has been -traveling about the country, for the purpose of collecting information -of the requisites necessary for his undertaking: he has, however, to -encounter many obstacles. A trifling tax on shipping would be cheerfully -agreed to for an undertaking so important. - - [2] For Instructions for navigating the river Plate, see _Appendix_; - where also will be found the Rules of the Port, Dues to be paid by - Vessels, &c. - -Several pilot boats cruise about the river Plate, from which pilots may -be obtained. - -In addition to the difficulty of large vessels getting up the river, an -adequate freight cannot be procured for them in Buenos Ayres. The Lord -Lynedoch, a ship of 550 tons, with a numerous crew of Lascars, remained -sixteen months and at last took a cargo of mules to the Isle of France. -Vessels of 150 to 200 tons burthen are the most likely to get employed. - -Vessels discharge and take in their cargoes by means of lighters, called -_balandras_. An English gentleman, Mr. Cope, has several in his employ, -and does the chief part of the English and American business. Should -there be the least swell upon the water, these lighters cannot lie -alongside; it is only in fine weather that work can be performed. - -Boat-hire is dear: to the outer roads, 8 dollars 4 reals, to the inner, -in proportion. The boatmen are mostly Englishmen, strong, active -fellows. - -The landing-place, at what was once the mole, is very bad; heavy boats -cannot get near. Carts are used to embark and disembark, for which there -is no fixed charge; they get what they can, like our watermen at home. -Those whose business leads them often afloat, find it a great tax, and -some prefer riding on the backs of their sailors, to paying it. It is -seldom there is water sufficient for boats to come close in, and they -are at all times liable to damage, from the pieces of rock, wrecks, &c. -near the shore. - -Buenos Ayres, at the present period, may be said not to possess a navy; -neither, indeed, is so expensive an establishment necessary. The captain -of the port, Don Batista Azopardo, is an Italian by birth; he is said -to be a well-meaning man. He commanded an armed vessel in the last war, -and has been once or twice a prisoner to the English. There are likewise -a number of marine officers in the service of Buenos Ayres. The -_Aranzazu_, national brig of war, so long anchored in the outer roads, -has a crew chiefly English; some of them are refractory seamen from the -merchant vessels. The marines are black soldiers. - - * * * * * - -There are three regular packets which run between Buenos Ayres and Monte -Video; the _Pepa_, _Dolores_, and _Mosca_, schooners. Seventeen dollars -are charged for the passage each way, every thing being provided, except -beds. This passage, which is about 150 miles, is sometimes made in 12 or -14 hours; at others, it takes several days. The favourite packet is the -_Pepa_, an American-built schooner, with good accommodations, commanded -by Campbell, an Englishman, who, from his skill and attention, is -peculiarly fitted for such an employment. - - * * * * * - -The CLIMATE of Buenos Ayres, taken generally, is decidedly good, and -more congenial to English habits than that most places abroad. Its -salubrity, however, is overrated: a consumptive person must not think -of coming here; many of that class have been obliged to fly to Mendoza -and other climes, to escape the vicisitudes of this. - -The spring months of September, October, November, and the autumn -ones of April and May, are the most agreeable parts of the year. The -thermometer, at those seasons, averages about 60; and we have repeated -clear and bracing weather, intermingled, however, with inclement days. - -The summer is not so hot as the latitude would denote. A sea breeze sets -in, at times, towards the afternoon; but this is not regular. December -and January are the hottest months. On some days of oppressive heat, the -thermometer may average 80, and at others, the pleasing temperature of -70 and 75. In January, 1824, for nearly a week it was 96 in the shade: -the oldest inhabitant never remembered such a continuance of heat. -When the heat is at the greatest, a _pampero_ suddenly comes, with its -accompaniment of rain, thunder and lightning, and cools the air. These -Pampero winds from the W. and W.S.W. with nothing to impede their -progress across the extended Pampas, blow with great violence, raising -clouds of dust, and obliging every one to close windows and doors. Being -off the land, they are not dangerous to shipping; though vessels at -the mouth of the river have been blown in sea hundreds of miles, by -a Pampero. The thunder and lightning to an European is terrific: the -lightning is often dangerous. - -The dust, fleas, and musquitos, render the summer months very -disagreeable. The fleas are a great annoyance, the houses being filled -with them; the very dust breeds them; and they seem to have a great -partiality for foreigners. I don't observe that the natives heed them. -They laugh at the English mode of washing the rooms to get rid of these -vermin; their plan is, to strew the room with fennel, sweeping that -and the fleas altogether into the street. Musquitos are another of the -disagreeables. - -A north wind, in summer, is very unpleasant, the heated atmosphere -relaxing both mind and body. The combined effects of heat, dust, and -wind, make the enjoyment of an evening promenade extremely precarious. - -In summer, the pastures frequently catch fire, from the intenseness of -the heat. In 1821, Mr. Halsey, an American gentleman, who has a large -sheep farm, sustained a considerable loss by an event of this kind, -many of his sheep having been burnt. The same heat that occasioned Mr. -Halsey's loss brought on a violent Pampero; and, from the dust and -burning ashes that enveloped the city, one might have supposed that -the days of Herculaneum and Pompeii were about to return. - -The winter is mild, yet there are days of piercing cold in the months of -June, July, and August; and thin ice may be seen in the morning, but not -any snow. We have here the penetrating rains, mists, and November days -of England, without its comforts: from these circumstances, and the heat -of the summer, Englishmen feel the cold much more than in England, and -cling to their fire-sides, for they have introduced those luxuries, and -the natives in some cases follow our example; otherwise, the ladies wrap -themselves up in their shawls, and the gentlemen in their capotes, and -thus pass the severe days of winter. The thermometer in winter is -generally at 40 to 50, sometimes at 35. - -The roads, after heavy rains, are nearly impassable, forming _pantanas_, -or mud holes, which are dangerous to travellers; but, on the return of -fine weather; they quickly dry again. The dead horses and dogs, that lie -about the roads, quickly decay. - -The rich pastures afford food to the cattle all the year round. The -winter's general mildness prevents the necessity of housing them. - -That Buenos Ayres possesses a fine climate, no one can deny; but not -to the extent its panegyrists have stated. I speak as I have found it, -having in vain looked for that Italian sky, soul-breathing softness -in the air, that some pretend to have found: but it may be defined a -healthy, warm climate. - -The various and sudden changes to which the British climate is subject, -form a fruitful grumbling topic to many Englishmen and foreigners, who -can fancy nothing that is not foreign. According to their accounts, even -the moon shines better here than at home. I will venture to assert, that -we have in England more real fine days in May, June, July, August, and -September, than in the best months at Buenos Ayres. Of our delightful -summer evenings, they have nothing to compare. To make any contrast of -a winter, in latitude 34, and that of 50, is out of the question. - -In this part of South America, earthquakes are only heard of; we dread -not, here, the catastrophes of Peru, Chili, and Mexico. - - * * * * * - -The prevalent DISEASES of Buenos Ayres are fevers, sore throats, -rheumatism, and others common to Europe. Strangers are subject to -rheumatism from the dampness and searching winds. Sore throats, in -many instances, have been fatal. - -It has often been observed, that we feel the effects of free-drinking -here, more than in England. I have experienced this more than once, and -thought it peculiar to myself, till others complained of the same. - - * * * * * - -The country round Buenos Ayres is uninteresting; all is dreary sameness. -But where, indeed, shall we find the charming scenery of our dear -England,--its hills and dales, parks, thick-set hedges, and splendid -mansions? We miss, too, that endless chirping of birds, ever heard in -our thick-set hedges. Here, the equestrian takes his ride merely for the -sake of exercise, and not from any pleasure the country can afford. I -did not expect to find villas, parks, and cultivated grounds; but I -thought it would be more diversified. - -In a place where horses are so cheap, one might conclude that Englishmen -would be continually on horseback, but they soon get tired of a -recreation, in which nothing but exercise is concerned. The most -frequented ride is to the village of Isidro, fifteen miles from the -city, the Richmond of this place. On Sundays and holidays much company -resort thither. It has some attractions in point of scenery. - -The Barracca road is good--upon a par with those of England. -Horse-racing and other sports are practised there, both by Englishmen -and natives. - -A ride in the neighbourhood of Buenos Ayres is not, however, entirely -devoid of interest; especially in the fruit season, when the _quintas_, -or farm-houses, with the peach trees weighed down by delicious fruit, -the orange trees (though this is not their soil), and the wild aloe, so -common in this and the opposite continent of Africa, afford an agreeable -prospect. But the wild rose, blackberries, and the mass of roots and -plants of English fields and hedges, are not to be seen. The trees (if -they can be called so) are of a nature so dwarfish, that they seem like -apologies for trees, stinted in their growth by bad nursing. - - * * * * * - -The _Alameda_, or public walk of Buenos Ayres, is upon the beach, near -the mole. It is totally unworthy such a city, and in the neighbourhood -of all the rabble of the town. It is only about 200 yards in length, -with rows of trees the height of bushes on each side, and brick seats, -which are too much honoured by the fair forms that use them. A moderate -assemblage frequent this walk on Sunday evenings: the beauty and dress -of the females could alone tempt a stranger to visit it. On other days -it is deserted, except by some elderly gentlemen, who, as in our St. -James's Park and Kensington Gardens, are glad to escape from the -multitude, and commune with themselves. - - * * * * * - -The beach well deserves its nick-name of _Wapping_; being crowded with -sailors of all nations, grog-shops, stores, &c. The English sailors -idling about the beach would man a ship of war. A stranger, seeing so -many English faces, might suppose it an English colony. At night, the -sailors in the grog-shops dance, to the music of the fiddle and flute, -reels, and the College hornpipe in perfection, astonishing the Spanish -girls. At one of these _pulperias_, or grog-shops, on the beach, a -large picture was lately hoisted, of H.M.S. Boyne in full sail, flags, -signals, &c. streaming. The English sailors mustered in great numbers -upon this occasion, and rent the air with their cheers. - -The seamen upon the beach are, at times, disorderly; but not more so -than in other countries. American sailors have been the most refractory, -causing their captains infinite trouble. The captain of an American ship -going to sea, lately, made application to the captain of one of our -packets, for irons, to punish his mutinous crew; but he replied, that he -never had such articles on board his ship. - -In no part of the world are masters of vessels subject to such annoyance -from the desertion of their crews.[3] Men get into the hands of crimps, -who conceal them, and exact their own price from those who are in want -of sailors. This has been in some measure rectified lately, especially -since the suppression of privateering. Many sailors roam about the -country, working as labourers; but they soon get tired of that, and -hanker after their old employment, as an old coachman likes to hear the -smack of the whip. These "beach-rangers," as they are called, have often -wished to enter for his majesty's ships that have been lying off Buenos -Ayres; but few or none have been accepted. Sailors begin to find there -is no service equal to our's. - - [3] On the 4th December, 1823, the Dutch ship of war _Lynx_, of 30 - guns, arrived at Buenos Ayres, on her way to the Pacific; and thirty - of the crew deserted, during her stay of nineteen days. The boats came - on shore latterly with armed marines, and the men were not permitted - to land. - - The French brig of war _Faune_ arrived on the 11th, and sailed on the - 23d June, 1824: she lost six men by desertion. This brig brought to - Buenos Ayres the French Admiral, Rosamel. - - * * * * * - -There are two English COFFEE-HOUSES, or HOTELS; Faunch's, and Keen's. -The former is a very superior one, and provides the dinners given upon -our national days, such as St. George's, St. Andrew's, &c. besides -numerous private dinners of Englishmen, Americans, Creolians, &c. It is -situated near the Fort. Faunch, the master, and his wife, have had great -experience in their profession in London; and the style of his dinners -is hardly to be exceeded there. The king's birth-day dinner is kept -up with great _eclat_: the room is surrounded by flags of different -nations; and they have both vocal and instrumental music. From 70 to 80 -persons generally sit down to table, including the ministers of the -country, who are always invited. The government pay us the compliment of -hoisting the flag at the Fort, on that day. - -Another hotel, kept by a respectable North-American female, Mrs. Thorn, -a widow, is much resorted to by the Americans. - -In the above coffee-houses, they charge 40 dollars per month for board -and lodging. An abatement is made to those who agree to remain a certain -period. Dinner for one person, including a pint of wine, is a dollar; -breakfast, tea, and supper, from 2 to 4 reals each; and a bed per night, -4 reals. - -On the beach, near the Fort, is a tavern, or eating-house, called the -Commercial Hotel; the master of which is a Spaniard, but most of the -waiters and servants are French: they have, likewise, an English waiter. -Dishes of all sorts can be procured there. To dine well, the price -amounts to nearly the same as at other taverns. The large dining-room -will accommodate from 70 to 80 persons, and is neatly fitted up. -Pictures of the battle of Alexandria, the storming of Seringapatam; -portraits of the French Marshals, Bertrand, Drouet, Foy, &c.; and views -of Paris and other cities, are suspended round the room. - -The Cafe de la Victoria, in Buenos Ayres, is very splendid; we have -nothing of the sort in London. It may not perhaps vie with the Mille -Colonnes, or other Parisian coffee-houses. There are, likewise, in -Buenos Ayres, those of St. Marco, the Catalan, and Cafe de Martin. They -have all large court-yards, or _patios_, attached to them, and stand -upon a great space of ground, more than could be well spared in London -for such purposes, where land is so valuable. These _patios_, in summer, -are covered with awnings, affording an agreeable retreat from the sun's -heat. They have wells of good water. To each also is attached a billiard -table; and, as this is a pastime to which they are much addicted, the -tables are always crowded. The coffee-rooms are covered with shewy -French paper, representing scenes in India, Otaheite, Don Quixote, and -designs from Grecian and Roman history. - -A new coffee-house was opened in December, 1824, near the church of St. -Michael. The music, illuminations, and fireworks, in front of the -establishment, on the evening of its opening, attracted a great -concourse of people. - -About four miles from town is a public-house called the York Hotel, kept -by a native. Creolian masters and mates of vessels, upon their hired -horses, at one dollar per afternoon, generally stop there; and the -horses are so accustomed to it, that it is with difficulty they will go -beyond it. - -In the coffee-houses the charges are very moderate: a wine-glass of -liqueurs, brandy, or any other cordial, tea, coffee, and bread, half -a real; with toast, one real. The waiters do not expect fees, as in -England: a _capitas_, or head waiter, superintends the coffee-room.[4] - - [4] In the coffee-houses, the waiters are very inquisitive, and in a - manner that one cannot be angry with. A knight of the napkin got me - into conversation, asking me a host of questions about England and - Englishmen, declaring, that he liked them better than any foreigners; - and, after passing those compliments, which I received with due - reverence, he eagerly demanded the reason of the English having such - red faces? I knew he could not mean mine, as I am dark, and of a - sallow complexion; so I told him, that the rich people drank a great - deal of Port wine, and the poor equally so of beer, which accounted - for the bloom he had noticed. - -In the arrangements and decoration of coffee-houses, the French and -Spaniards far outstrip us. The English are not a coffee-house-going -people: that time which other nations spend in them, the Englishman -passes in business, or with his family. - -Many Englishmen, upon their first arrival, reside with Spanish -families, to improve themselves in the language: forty dollars per month -is the charge. The houses of Mrs. Cassamajor and Mrs. Rubio take in -boarders; these families are of the highest respectability, and they -have several accomplished daughters, whose society is very interesting; -but Spanish cookery, with its garlic and grease, no more pleases an -English taste, than does that of the French. - - * * * * * - -Of the PUBLIC BUILDINGS, the Fort is the seat of government, the -Downing-Street of Buenos Ayres: it is situated near the river, with -residences inside. Though surrounded by a ditch, with cannon mounted on -the ramparts, drawbridges, &c. it could make but little defence against -a serious attack. One would suppose, that those who chose the spot on -which the city is built, had in view the prevention of attack by hostile -fleets, the shallowness of the water being a defence against any danger -of this kind. - -The Consulado is a respectable-looking house; it contains a Court of -Justice, or Appeals, for persons cited for debt, of which they regulate -the payment according to the ability of the party summoned, very similar -to our Courts of Request. In cases of debt they are very lenient, -seldom committing to prison, except for a flagrant attempt at fraud, -and sometimes giving the debtor five years to pay his creditors, -which is almost tantamount to a release. Disputes are decided by the -magistrates, at the Consulado, with an impartiality that gives universal -satisfaction. The English disputants, it has been observed, are very -numerous, causing more trouble than those of all the rest of the town -put together. The Post-Office is held in this building; and on the first -floor (for the house is one story high) is a Music School, in the -morning for young ladies, and in the evening for gentlemen. - -The Cabildo, or Town-House, has nothing remarkable about it, but the -church tower, and a long balcony in front: it is built in the Plaza, of -which it forms the western boundary. The great powers possessed by the -Members of the Cabildo, according to the old Spanish law, have been -reformed within these three years. It has a prison for criminal -offenders; and the head Police-Office is near it. - -The Bank, and the adjoining range of houses, are lofty and handsome. - -The House of Representatives has been lately constructed; it follows -the model, on a minor scale, of the French Chamber at Paris, and forms -a perfect theatre. The members are seated in the pit, the president -and secretary on the stage, and the spectators in the boxes. A bell -announces the commencement and the close of business. The orators, when -speaking, remain seated; so that they have no opportunity to display the -graces of action. It is well lighted, by tasteful chandeliers. The armed -soldiery, both inside and outside the house, destroys the idea of -republicanism. - -The Custom-House has no pretensions to notice, on the score of -appearance, whatever it may merit for its convenience. It was proposed -to build another, in the extensive grounds and gardens of the suppressed -monastery of Le Merced; but this, like many other propositions, has been -abandoned. - -The Public Library is a credit to this infant state; it contains about -21,000 volumes. Every respectable person is allowed admittance, to -peruse the books. Mr. Moreno, who speaks English, is the librarian. -Some choice drawings of medals from France are in the library. - -There is a small Botanical Museum; but the country furnishes few -specimens of plants. - -The Retiro, occupied as barracks, is on the north extremity of the -city, and has nothing worthy of notice about it, but its theatrical -appearance, and daubs of paintings on the walls. There is a large space -in front, called the Bull Ring, in which bull-fights used to take place. -The band performs there, for a short time, in the afternoon. It is here -that criminals are shot, when the punishment is not for a state offence. -Being situated upon high ground, and near the river, the Retiro has -a pleasant prospect. In one of the streets near it, is a large brick -building, built for a distillery, twelve years since, by Mr. Thwaites, -an Englishman. The speculation did not answer, and the house is now in -a state of dilapidation. A windmill, west of the town, is a conspicuous -object; it is the only one in the country, and was erected by Mr. -Stroud, also an Englishman. It had, for some time, the fate of the -distillery; but I have heard that it now flourishes. - -The Residencia, on the south side of the Fort, is appropriated as an -hospital. There are two or three other public hospitals, including one -for foundlings. - - * * * * * - -The Grand Plaza is a large square, environed by buildings: on the east -is the Recoba, a piazza with shops; on the west, the Cabildo; on the -north, a part of the cathedral; and on the south, a range of shops. -There is a pyramid in the centre, which, on festival nights, is -illuminated. If paved, it would be an admirable place for the parade -of troops; at present, wet weather renders it almost impassable. - -A second Plaza has been made, adjoining the other, near the Fort, by -the removal of the market-place and some dirty sheds and stabling. - -The river, the fort, some neat buildings on the south, the handsome -arch, under which there is a passage to the two plazas, the towers of -St. Francisco's church, and the Cabildo, taken in perspective from -Faunch's Hotel, would form a good picture. - -At night, the streets are respectably lighted by lamps fastened to the -walls, which extend as far as the eye can reach in some of the principal -thoroughfares, in St. Francisco Street particularly. A stranger, on -viewing this street, would imbibe no mean opinion of the city. The -lamps do not afford any thing like the illumination of the gas lights of -London; they are equal, however, to those used before the introduction -of gas. - -From the state of the pavements, except in the principal streets, -walking at night is very disagreeable--in wet weather, dangerous; and -here are no accommodating hackney coaches to jump into. - -It is intended to pave all the streets; but, from the scarcity of -workmen and materials, it will be some time before this can be effected. -Those that have pavements, bating their narrowness, are similar to the -streets of London; the unpaved ones are very miserable. - - * * * * * - -The HOUSES of Buenos Ayres are mostly built of brick, and white-washed. -Very few of them are one story high: they are flat-roofed, with a high -parapet, and have a court-yard attached. The windows are protected by -iron bars placed lengthwise in the front, so that a Londoner might fancy -them lock-up houses. They form a complete fortification; and the loss -sustained in Whitelock's attack ceases to excite surprise, recollecting -that our troops had to run the gauntlet through an enemy they could not -get at. - -Many of the houses occupy a large extent of ground. The _sala_ is the -principal room. The roofs of the houses, denominated the _azotea_, are -very pleasant, especially near the river; and the party-walls are so -low, that a person can traverse whole streets upon the house-tops. The -inhabitants do not fear robberies, relying upon the strength of their -doors, iron-barred windows, and barking dogs: of the latter, two or -three are in a house. The bars in the window fronts are an excellent -contrivance, and quite necessary, in a climate requiring so much air, -and likewise for security, the street windows being close to the -foot-path, and no areas to protect them. They report that this fashion -is a remnant of Spanish jealousy; at any rate, it does their invention -credit. Many of the mansions are specimens of Moorish architecture; -those belonging to the richer class are splendidly furnished with -carpets, handsome mirrors, &c. So little wood is used in building, there -is no fear of fire. Extensive houses, formerly occupied by the first -families of the country, are now tenanted by British merchants; and the -salas that were once graced by beauty, music, and the dance, are now -stored with dry goods, and nothing is heard but the hum of business. - -House rent is very high: for a moderate-sized house, from 60 to 80 -dollars per month. - - * * * * * - -CHURCHES.--In Catholic countries, the attention of the Protestant -traveller is ever attracted towards the churches. Their gorgeous -decorations, music, dress of the priesthood, &c. form so great a -contrast to the simplicity of the reformed religion, that we gaze, as -if viewing the splendid scenery of some theatrical spectacle, and, for -the moment, cease to be astonished at the influence which this imposing -church has exercised, and still continues to exercise, over a great -portion of the Christian world. If the Spaniards in Europe are supposed -to surpass all other Catholic nations in their strict adherence to the -rights and ceremonies of "holy church," they have not neglected to -transplant to South America this formidable engine of power. The charms -of its music, and its general magnificence, must have bewildered the -imagination of the natives, and insured to the Spaniards complete -authority. - -I have visited most of the churches of Buenos Ayres, with feelings I can -scarcely describe. My mind was ever strongly imbued with recollections -of those youthful readings of monastic institutions, of cowled monks -and nuns, which, in our Protestant land, we only read of; but to have -the reality before me, absorbed every faculty--I gave a loose to -fancy--every thought was engaged. - -I believe the following to be a tolerably correct list of the churches -and chapels in Buenos Ayres:-- - - The Cathedral. - St. Francisco. - St. Domingo. - St. Ignatio, or College Church. - St. Catalina (Convent of Nuns). - St. Juan (ditto). - St. Nicholas. - St. Miguel. - Residencia. - Montserrat. - La Merced. - La Conception. - Loccaro. - Recolator. - La Piedad. - - _Chapels._ - St. Lucia. - St. Roque. - Hospital. - -The Cathedral is a large domed building, built of brick, as indeed they -all are. Its outside presents nothing particular, with the exception of -its loftiness; and, in common with the rest, it has crosses placed upon -every prominent part. A new front is building towards the Plaza; but -it gets on very slowly, the scaffolding being so very expensive. The -interior is lofty and spacious; it is ornamented with figures of the -Virgin Mary and the infant Jesus, in glittering attire. Jesus on the -cross, and saints in strict costume, occupy places at the different -altars. Flowers, artificial and real, are plentifully bestowed, and -relics are strewed in all directions, informing the foreigner that he is -in a land where Catholicism once existed in all its pristine grandeur. -These emblems of peace, in the body of the church, are shaded by those -of war from above. Suspended from the ceiling are about twenty flags, -taken from the Spaniards on various occasions, as at Monte Video, Maypu, -&c. _Fernando VII._ is inscribed upon most of them. The grand altar is -adorned with costly gems; and when the large and numerous candles are -lighted, the effect is grand. The organ and choir are good: the tones -of the former vibrating through the aisles, and the kneeling females in -black attire, make an impression of no ordinary nature. The government -and municipal authorities attend at the Cathedral on state and feast -days, forming processions to and from the church. The Sunday mass, about -twelve o'clock, is attended by most of the fashion and beauty of the -town. - -Of the churches, that of St. Francisco seems most profusely ornamented. -Virgins and saints of all descriptions occupy every altar and nook of -the interior, clothed in rich and fanciful attire, which the devotion of -the faithful has bestowed. The grand altar is very brilliant; and when -fully lighted, it appears a sheet of gold. Some of the ornaments, I -should think, are valuable. This edifice is of considerable length, and -contains twenty friars of the order of St. Francisco, the only community -of the sort now existing in Buenos Ayres. The towers are paved with -tiling, which, at a distance, looks like marble. St. Francisco's church -is my favourite, for, child-like, I am attracted by glitter. - -The College church is one I rarely visit, from prejudice or revenge at -an insult offered to me by one of the servants, who told me Englishmen -had no business there, and absolutely took my arm to conduct me out. In -any other place I should have chastised him.--It is a gloomy structure, -both outside and inside, even with the usual decorations. The Holy Ghost -proceeds on its different missions from this church. - -St. Domingo church is large, with a spacious dome. It had, until the -suppression, in 1822, forty-eight friars of the Dominican order; amongst -whom was an Irish priest, Father Burke, who, from motives of kindness, -is still allowed to occupy his apartment. He is more than 70 years of -age, and much esteemed by the British as well as natives, being divested -of those prejudices which so often disgrace his cloth. The rooms of the -friars, and the garden, make it a comfortable retreat. The interior of -St. Domingo is light and airy, without much decoration; but it contains -objects that swell the beating hearts of Englishmen--British standards -ranged around the dome, the trophies of Beresford's and Whitelock's -expeditions. Crawford, with part of his division, it will be -recollected, took refuge in this church. I have viewed those flags with -the most painful recollections, obtained, as they were, not in open -fight, but by concealed and inaccessible enemies; and have felt for the -fate of my unhappy countrymen, slaughtered, without an opportunity to -retaliate, by those who could not have stood one half-hour before them -in a fair field of battle. This city is almost the only one in the world -that can boast the possession of such prizes. - -The church of Le Merced is a very pretty building, with a dome and -tower. The interior is compact, and, in splendour, very little inferior -to St. Francisco; containing virgins, Madonas, holy pictures, &c. &c. in -gorgeous abundance, with the usual quantity of confessional boxes. It is -much resorted to. Until lately, it held forty-five friars, of the order -of Le Merced; a peculiar order, allowing its professors, it is said, to -wear concealed arms. One of the regiments attends divine service, and -their band performs, in this church. - -The description of one may be said to include a description of all the -churches, as they partake of the same general character, excepting only -that some are more splendid than others. No impediment is offered to the -admission of foreigners into these sacred buildings; and they may roam -about _ad libitum_. The obstruction I received in the College church, I -am persuaded, was the unauthorized act of the fellow who offered it. To -avoid singularity, it is best to conform to their mode of devotion. The -eye of curiosity will, now and then, be directed towards a stranger; but -this is to be expected, though some gentlemen express a repugnance to -visit their churches for that reason, and a fear of intruding. - -The churches, with the buildings attached, gardens, &c. occupy a great -extent of ground; particularly those of St. Juan and Catalina, which -were erected at a time when religious enthusiasm was at its height. - - * * * * * - -The THEATRE, as an edifice, has nothing to boast. The exterior looks -like a stable; but the interior is better than the outside promises. It -has been much improved since my arrival. They sadly want a new theatre. -There is a plot of ground near the Plaza just adapted for it: but unless -the government take it in hand, the public spirit of individuals, I -fear, will not; and yet, with a people so theatrically inclined, it is -somewhat surprising. Almost the first inquiry of a foreigner is of the -Theatre: at present, they smile at its insignificance. - -The pit is large, extending a considerable length from the stage, with -backs to the seats, and partitions to each, which serve as a rest for -the arms: they are numbered, and let out under the appellation of -"_lunetas_;" every person proceeding to his own seat; thus the crowding -and fighting, for places, so common in our theatres, is avoided. No -females are admitted into the pit. - -In the dress circle, some blue silk spread over the panels of the boxes -is all that distinguishes it from the others. - -The dress boxes will contain about eight persons each. As they have not -any seats affixed to them, those who engage them send chairs; or the -theatre will supply them, by paying a trifle for their use. The price -of a box, for a night's performance, is three dollars. These boxes, and, -indeed, places for every other part of the house, may be taken for a -certain period called a "_function_," which lasts ten nights. Many -families engage their boxes this way, which makes them come reasonable. - -Under the dress circle, and even with the pit, are boxes called -_palcos_, at 21/2 dollars per night. - -The _cazuela_, or gallery, is similar to the one at Astley's, except -that it is not so large. It is appropriated to females alone. The -keeping females thus crowded together in a theatre, and separated from -their natural protectors, seems an abominable practice. A stranger is -apt to form erroneous opinions of the fair occupants of the cazuela, and -can scarcely believe that the most respectable are to be found there: -but it is so; and husbands, brothers, and friends, wait for them at the -gallery door. This custom, it is said, they inherit from the Moors. The -_goddesses_ of the cazuela behave in the most orderly manner; much more -so, I suspect, than my countrywomen would, similarly situated. - -Over the stage is inscribed the words--"_Es la Comedia Espejo de la -Vida_." - -The Governor's box was close to the stage, on what in the London -theatres is denominated the Prince's side of the house; and the -_cabildo_, or box of the chief magistracy, was in front. But now the -Governor's box is removed to what was the _cabildo_, and the English -consul occupies the one lately the Governor's. The Governor, except on -national days, seldom attends the theatre. - -That important personage, the prompter, has his little tub, as usual, -in the middle of the stage, destroying all the illusion of the scene, -and, from necessity, obliging the audience to hear him as well as the -performers. Senor Zappucci, an Italian, intent, one evening, upon -impressing the audience with the drollery of a comic song, fell through -the prompter's hole; and the spectators began to consider whether this -was a part of his song. Fortunately he was not hurt. The superior -arrangement, in this respect, of the English theatres, might afford a -lesson to the most prejudiced foreigners. - -The admittance is two reals to all parts of the house: but this does not -include a seat. It is, therefore, necessary to take a whole box, or a -single place in the pit (which costs three reals), in addition to the -admission. - -Soldiers, who constitute every where the police of the city, were -formerly stationed both inside and outside of the theatre; but this -is no longer the case; and the eye of the republican citizen is not -offended by their presence at places of public amusement. - -No refreshments are sold in the theatre; we never hear the "Choice -fruit, ladies and gentlemen, and a bill of the play!" and the spectators -in the pit are saved the nuisance of having the peelings of oranges and -apples dropped upon them. But then they are not condemned to sit five or -six hours, as in our theatres; three hours and a half is the utmost. The -pit audience generally walk out between the acts, and reassume their -seats without disturbance or difficulty. - -Smoking in the theatre is not allowed; but such charms has the segar, -that they watch the opportunity of the absence of the police to smoke in -the lobbies. - -The theatre continues open all the year round, with the exception of -Lent; and then music is permitted. - -The regular nights of performance are Sundays and Thursdays; though -there are sometimes performances on Tuesdays, saints' days, &c. Sunday -nights are the most crowded, as in all Catholic countries. On rainy -nights there is no performance. - -The usual performances at the theatre consist of a play and farce; with -singing, sometimes, between the acts. - -"_Othello_" is at times performed--not that of our Shakspeare, but a -translation from the French. Its absurdities and tameness no Englishman -can endure with common patience; he looks in vain for those bursts that -overpower the imagination, and electrify the spectators. - -An ingenious English gentleman translated Cumberland's "_Wheel of -Fortune_," and "_The Jew_;" but they are too sentimental to please this -audience. "_Love laughs at Locksmiths_" and "_Matrimony_," from the -original French, are stock pieces; and "_The Scottish Outlaw_," and -"_Charles Edward Stuart_" are very successful. - -The performers are about equal to those of our country theatres. Of the -females, Dona Trinidad Guevra takes the lead. She has a good figure, a -tolerably expressive face, and a sweet, plaintive voice. In such parts -as _Letitia Hardy_, and _Maria_, in "_The Citizen_," she excels; and -likewise in the sentimental. - -Velarde is their first male performer, and plays tragedy, comedy, -farce--it would be unkind to say, with _Silvester Daggerwood_--and -"makes nothing of them;" for, in comedy, he has talent: his tragedy -is not first-rate. He has the merit of dressing his characters with -some regard to costume. I have seen him personate a British officer, -with a uniform coat nearly a copy of those worn by our Foot-Guard -officers.--The general manner of dress upon the stage, at times, -approaches to the burlesque. An English nobleman is always made to -wear the order of the Garter, and a star, whether in street, forest, -or drawing-room. Senor Rosquellas, in the part of _Lord Leicester_ or -_Essex_ (I know not which) in Rossini's "_Queen Elizabeth_," wears the -dress of a modern French field-marshal: his taste and experience should -reform this. - -Senor Culebras (in English, Mr. Snake) is made the butt of the juvenile -part of the audience--the _Claremont_ of this theatre. When he appears -to give out the play, they vociferate his name. Why they thus make sport -of him, I know not, except that he has a peculiarly spare person, and is -a sort of deputy manager, the Mr. Lamp of the company. He is said to be -a sensible man, speaking the Spanish language very correctly. As an -actor, he is both chaste and pleasing. - -In low comedy, they have a good actor, named Felipe David, the Liston -of the company; and one Senor Vera, who is a useful performer, as well -as singer, and has abilities of no mean order. His representation of -_Colonel Cox_, in the play of "_Charles Edward Stuart_," founded upon -an incident after the battle of Culloden, forcibly brought to my -recollection Lovegrove's _Rattan_, in the farce of "_The Bee-Hive_." - -Our English actresses, when they come on the stage, "prepared for woe," -have their white pocket-handkerchiefs pinned to their clothes: here they -are held in the hands. Both customs are ridiculous; and the constant -application they make of them in this theatre renders it more so. - -The orchestra consists of twenty-eight instrumental performers. The -symphonies between the acts are from Haydn, Mozart, &c. &c. as in the -English theatres. The performances are ushered in by an overture, -generally selected with great taste. - -The musical department has greatly improved; and they get through -difficult compositions with considerable spirit: constant practice, and, -above all, the great exertions of Senor Rosquellas has effected this. -This gentleman, a Spaniard by birth, made his first _debut_ before a -Buenos Ayres audience in 1822, as a vocalist. His science has enabled -him to surmount the imperfections of a very indifferent voice, and he is -always heard with pleasure. Mr. Rosquellas[5] may be called the founder -of the Buenos Ayres Opera; for, until he came, the orchestra was very -indifferent. Mr. Rosquellas speaks English, and is married to an English -lady. He has been in London, and, I believe, sung with Braham there. -He was ably seconded by Senor Vacani, also from Rio Janeiro, the best -_buffo_ I have seen (Naldi, perhaps, excepted). We had the music of -Rossini night after night to delighted audiences: the duet of "_Al' -idea di quell metallo_," from "_The Barber of Seville_," is as great -a favourite here as in Europe. - - [5] As Mr. R. is an important personage in Buenos Ayres, I cannot - forbear relating an anecdote of him:--In an excursion to Rio Janeiro, - he took away with him a slave girl, reporting (or scandal had done - so for him) that she was a present from the governor's lady, as a - trifling reward for the pleasure his musical talents had afforded her. - This coming to the ears of the lady made her highly indignant, saying, - that "she was not in the habit of giving away her slaves." Rosquellas, - upon his return, was sent to prison, and made to account for the - slave, by paying a round sum of money. - -The departure of Vacani left a blank in the musical world, which has -been since, in some degree, compensated by the appearance of Dona -Angelina Tani. She has a fine tenor voice; the lower tones are of great -depth, and some of them she elicits with great effect in a trio from -Rossini's "_Elizabeth Queen of England_." - -During the Lent of 1824, we had some delightful musical treats, -which rendered the representations of their regular drama very dull, -particularly to a foreigner. - -An English mechanic, by name Waldegrave, was tempted to make a trial -upon this stage as a singer. He sung "_The Beautiful Maid_," and "_The -Bewildered Maid_;" but he failed to make any impression. His voice was -good, but he wanted grace. - -In English singing, I doubt whether the inimitable Braham would please -them. They smile at the idea of our having a talent for music. The -finest compositions of Arne, Storace, Shield, Braham, &c. might stand -a chance of being suspected to be stolen from foreign composers; -for nothing goes down but Italian or Spanish music. Rosquellas, -from being a Spaniard, and singing their popular songs, such as the -"_Contrabandista_," &c. is just to their taste: for, though no longer -owning the Spanish sway, they still cling to that music which charmed -them in their youth. - -With a people so fond of dancing, one would expect to find a regular -corps de ballet at the theatre; but a dance was not to be seen, except, -now and then, dancers from the Rio Janeiro Theatre accepted engagements -for a limited period, until Monsieur and Madame Touissaint, from the -Paris and London Opera, arrived, who meet with great and deserved -encouragement. - -The bolero, fandango, and the pleasing castanets, seem peculiar only to -Spain: I had thought to have found them common here. The Touissaints -have introduced the bolero, and dance charmingly. - -An Englishman, at a foreign theatre, cannot help being struck with the -stillness and order, which form so great a contrast to what he has been -accustomed to at home. The theatre of Buenos Ayres, in this respect, -might serve as an example to those of more polished nations.[6] But, -notwithstanding Lord Byron's remark, that he would never write a play -for our winter theatres, whilst the one-shilling gallery was suffered to -remain; I prefer their boisterous mirth, and its many inconveniences, to -the monotony of the foreign stage. The magnificence and ingenuity of our -Christmas pantomime, which every body pretends to despise, and yet which -all go to see, with the joyous faces of so many children seated round -the boxes, convulsed with laughter at the drolleries of a Grimaldi, are -not to be paralleled elsewhere. A London theatre is, indeed, a world -within itself. - - [6] I once witnessed a most disgraceful scene at the Theatre Francais, - at Paris. Talma was performing _Cinna_--the house was crowded, when - some English ladies entered the boxes, escorted by two of their - countrymen, military officers. It was at the time when the British - army occupied Paris. In taking off their shawls, the backs of the - ladies were, for a moment, turned towards the pit; when a yelling - commenced from that quarter, which would have disgraced savages. The - interference of the British officers increased the confusion; the - most insulting gestures were resorted to; and the ladies quitted the - theatre in tears, affording a noble triumph to those brave champions - of etiquette. - -Sometimes a straggling English sailor will wander into this theatre; but -not understanding it, he soon leaves it for the grog shop. A sailor is -always a troublesome inmate of a theatre. Two of them were passing their -remarks rather loudly, one evening: the audience laughed; but not so the -police, for they handed the two poor fellows into the street. Jack swore -that he had had many a row at the Liverpool and Portsmouth play-house, -without being molested; and damned such liberty as that at Buenos Ayres. -I got my weather-beaten countrymen away, seeing them inclined to resist; -for unarmed men stand but a poor chance with a police of bayonets and -swords. - -Managers and actors quarrel in the new as well as in the old world. -Velarde has had one or two disputes, and left the theatre. The audience -insisted upon his return, and the manager was obliged to yield. The -actor's appearance, after these squabbles, is made a triumph by his -friends; and the ladies in the cazuela throw bouquets, literally -strewing the stage with flowers. These disagreements give rise to formal -appeals to the public, from both parties, in the shape of printed -addresses. In Velarde's dispute, the manager had charged him with -getting drunk. The actor indignantly denied this; but allowed that, on -the 25th of May (the anniversary of their independence), he did get a -little merry, broke glasses, and quarrelled with the landlord, in honour -of the day, as every good patriot should do; and, in answer to a remark -that had been made upon the graces of his person, he stated, that he did -not possess Jacob's ladder, to climb to heaven, and ask God why he was -not made an Adonis. - -A certain priest, Castaneda, having, in a publication, attacked the -character of Dona Trinidad, for wearing upon the stage the portrait of -a married gentleman (as he asserted), the lady absented herself from -the theatre for some nights. On her re-appearance, she was greeted with -applause; the audience reasoning, like our's in the affair of Mrs. H. -Johnstone and Braham, that the public have nothing to do with private -character. - -Performers, at times, in Buenos Ayres, announce their own benefits--even -the females. A lady will address the audience with all the earnestness -so important an occasion demands, and will go round the house, -delivering bills of the intended performance, couched in high-flown -language, "To the immortal and respectable public of Buenos Ayres," &c. -&c. They know how to "bill the town," as well as any English country -manager. Previous to a benefit night, they have a custom of illuminating -the front of the theatre, and exhibiting a transparency of the proposed -representation;[7] with bonfires, rockets, and a band of music at the -door. This has been ridiculed by one of the newspapers, but it still -continues in a degree. - - [7] A performance was advertised for a benefit, founded upon the - battle of Salamanca. In the front of the theatre, on the evening - previous, a transparency was exhibited, representing the discomfited - French pursued by Wellington and his troop: they had, likewise, a - British flag hoisted. All this was too much for Monsieur to bear; and - a scuffle took place, in an attempt to haul the flag down. On the play - night, an O.P. row was expected, but all went off quietly. - -The British are not great patrons to the theatre: they assign, as a -cause, the want of attraction; but business, and their inclination -to society among themselves, are perhaps the chief reasons of their -neglect. There are, however, a number of Englishmen, who find relief -from the cares of business, and are constant attendants at the theatre; -some of them, without any fixed object, stroll about, earnestly gazing -at the pretty girls, whom they designate by particular names. I have -been much amused, when they have pointed out to me the different ladies, -under their fixed appellations; as, Imogen, Euphrosyne, Discretion, -Corinna, Zenobia, the Greeks, &c. One gentleman, Don Geronimo Salas, -they have named the King, from his great likeness to George the Fourth -of England. The resemblance is considerable; only that Don Geronimo is -not so corpulent as his Majesty. It is not every day we see men with -persons so corpulent as his Britannic Majesty and Don Geronimo: the -former (national prejudice apart) does indeed look like a king; the -latter is a very handsome man. - -It is not uncommon to see infants a few months old, in the arms of their -mothers, and slaves, at the play. - -The ladies attend the boxes in their most brilliant attire, combining -neatness with elegance, mostly in white; the neck and bosom partly -exposed, just enough to excite admiration, without alarming the most -fastidious modesty; a gold chain, or other ornament, is now and then -suspended from the neck; the dress, with short sleeves; the hair -tastefully arranged; a simple comb, and a few real or artificial flowers -braided about the hair. - -On a full night, the theatre presents a spectacle of lovely women, that -a stranger would hardly expect. I have often contemplated them, with -their dark expressive eyes and raven hair, adding, if possible, more -beauty to countenances already so beautiful. - -I think no city in the world, of the same population, can boast more -charming females than Buenos Ayres. Their appearance and brilliancy, at -the theatre, is not exceeded either at Paris or London; and I write from -a tolerable acquaintance with the theatres of both capitals. It is true, -the costly diamonds and waving plumes, that blaze from the persons of -the British and French fair, are not to be seen in Buenos Ayres: those -appendages, however, in my humble opinion, add not to female loveliness. - -The theatre was re-opened on the 16th January, 1825, under the -management of Messrs. Rosquellas and others, after having been -closed two months for the purpose of repairs and alterations. Great -improvements have been made: the seats in the pit are covered with -crimson velvet; the whole interior of the house has been cleaned and -painted; the stage thrown more forward, and the orchestra enlarged. A -new drop-scene is exhibited, with the arms of the country and other -devices painted upon it; and, from being better lighted, the theatre -has now a neat appearance. - -The operatic department constitutes the chief attraction of the theatre: -in this they have Rosquellas, Vacani (the renowned _buffo_), the younger -Vacani, Vera, the two Senoras Tanis, and Dona Angelina Tani, who sings -as exquisitely as ever. Vacani, upon his re-appearance, after a short -absence, was hailed with shouts of approbation, and bouquets of flowers -thrown upon the stage. - -In the dance, we have Touissaint, his wife, and a corps de ballet, -including some Portuguese comic dancers from Rio Janeiro. Regular -ballets of action now take place, in lieu of the pas de deux, and pas -seul, of one or two principal dancers. - -Under the old Spanish regime, the season of Lent was the most gloomy -part of the year; it is now the gayest: we have operas and ballets two -and three times a week, to delighted audiences; selections from _The -Barber of Seville_, _Figaro_, _Henry IV._ &c. the orchestra led by -Masoni, the skilful Masoni, whose talent draws forth raptures of -applause. - -It is in contemplation to get up regular operas, instead of detached -pieces: _Don Giovanni_ has been mentioned--Rosquellas to be the hero; he -would both look and perform it admirably, at least to those who have not -seen Ambrogetti. - -At the theatre door, on performance nights, several handsome carriages -are now to be seen, with lighted lamps and well-dressed servants, -belonging to English and other families. When I arrived, in 1820, -scarcely one was in existence. Were a Spaniard to revisit this place, -after an absence of a few years, he would feel surprised at the -alteration; the rigid fasts of the church laid aside for innocent -enjoyments, the hum of business greeting his ear, and European strangers -every where meeting his eye. Old Spain's ancient dominion of Buenos -Ayres is gone for ever: a few of the old school may yet cling to the -mother country; but the grand mass of the people, especially the younger -branches, are decidedly patriots. - -An amateur performance took place, on the 21st February, 1825, for -the benefit of the widows and orphans of those who had fallen in the -revolutionary wars. It was a full house, and profitable--the reverse -of Silvester Daggerwood's. Orders are not admitted to the Buenos -Ayres theatre. The play was _Virginius_; and the different parts were -sustained by gentlemen of the city, in a style so creditable, as to put -to the blush the regular actors. - -A North-American Frenchman, named Stanislaus, last from the Havannah, -has given several exhibitions at the theatre upon galvanism, -slight-of-hand, &c. aided by machinery, the best I have seen of the -sort. His performance was more than upon a par with our English -professors. The natives declared, he must have dealings with the devil; -or how could he transport handkerchiefs from the pockets of individuals -in the theatre to the lofty towers of the Cabildo, in the Plaza? and -this, they asserted, he had done. Stanislaus was rewarded with good -houses. His pronunciation of the Spanish language excited bursts of -laughter; it was a mixture of Spanish, French, and English. - -A Lecture on Astronomy was attempted; but it did not meet with the -success it merited, either from a want of taste for this instructive -science, or that the audience conceived the theatre an improper place. -The lecturer reading his part, diminished the effect. - - * * * * * - -An Englishman (Bradley) has a CIRCUS, which is sometimes open on Sunday -afternoons, and on saints' days. Bradley is a decent horseman and clown; -but he has to contend with many disadvantages. - - * * * * * - -BRITISH RESIDENTS.--Before entering into a detail of the manners and -customs of the native or Spanish part of the population, I shall take -some notice of the various FOREIGNERS who have become residents in this -city. Of these the most numerous are the ENGLISH: I have heard, that the -province of Buenos Ayres contains, of men, women, and children, 3500 -British individuals, according to a census taken in 1822. - -The British merchants are a respectable body in Buenos Ayres: the -commerce of the country is chiefly in their hands; and, taking the -clerks, servants, and others employed in their barraccas, or hide -warehouses, as well as in their houses, the numbers are very imposing. -Most houses have a Spanish clerk, who (as well as his English brethren) -generally boards and lodges in the house. - -The following is a list of the British mercantile establishments at -present existing in Buenos Ayres:-- - - Messrs. Brown, Buchanan, and Co. Agents for Lloyd's. - Dickson, Montgomery, & Co. - M'Crackan and Jamieson. - Miller, Eyes, and Co. - Miller, Robinson, & Co. - Winter, Britain, & Co. - Plowes, Noble, & Co. - Duguid and M'Kerrell. - Bertram, Armstrong, & Co. - Heyworth and Carlisle. - William P. Robertson & Co. - Anderson, Weir, & Co. - Tayleure, Cartwright, & Co. - William Hardesty & Co. - Joseph and Joshua Thwaites. - John Gibson & Co. - Hugh Dallas & Co. - Peter Sheridan. - John Appleyard. - Messrs. John Bailey. - C. S. Harvey. - Thomas Eastman. - Thomas Fair. - Thomas Nelson. - Green and Hodgson. - Richard and William Orr. - Jump and Priestley. - Stewart and M'Call. - John Ludlam. - James G. Helsby. - Henry Hesse. - John M'Dougall & Co. - John Harratt & Co. - R. B. Niblett. - Daniel Mackinlay. - Thomas Barton. - George Macfarlane. - Stephen Puddicomb. - Robert Utting. - -Most of the above houses have their corresponding firms at Rio Janeiro, -Monte Video, Chili, and Peru, forming an immense link, of no mean -importance, to the trade of Great Britain. - -Our merchants, in Buenos Ayres, are not only land and stock-holders; -but, since the establishment of the Bank, they have become Bank -Directors. In thus identifying themselves with the country, I am -persuaded, they will not forfeit one iota of their independence. - -In 1821, the British merchants in Buenos Ayres advanced to the Buenos -Ayrean government a sum of money, by way of loan, which was punctually -repaid, contrary to the expectations of many; for as this money was lent -only a few months after a revolution, when Ramirez and Carrera were in -the field, threatening the province, its return was problematical. - -The majority of the British merchants are natives of Scotland, -proverbial for their talent and activity in trade. Without being -accused of undue partiality, I may safely assert, that our merchants do -honour to the country in which they are domiciled. Quoting the language -of Don Valentin Gomez, at the King's birth-day dinner, of April 23, -1823, "The English citizens have shewn themselves worthy of the -distinguished character they have acquired. In Buenos Ayres, they have -always been good fathers of families, and good guests. The province owes -them every protection." - -The clerks in the mercantile houses are kept pretty closely to business, -from eight in the morning till near the same hour at night, holidays -excepted, which is fagging work. - -Besides the merchants, there are a host of English shopkeepers. The -street of La Piedad is full of them; and they retail almost every -article that can be mentioned. In all parts of the city, the eye -continually meets with English, and their inscriptions in front of the -shops; as, _Zapatero Ingles_ (English Shoemaker), _Sastre_ (Tailor), -_Carpenteria_ (Carpenter), _Roloxero_ (Watchmaker), &c. &c.; and -the quantity of British subjects dispersed all over the country, as -collectors of hides, agriculturists, &c. is more than would be believed. - -A trifling jealousy is, at times, to be observed amongst the natives, -at the numbers of the English resident here; the former supposing that -we have a monopoly of business, and drain the country of money. These -false reasoners in political economy cannot comprehend that, in trade, -obligations are mutual, and that for our goods we buy their produce, -often at a ruinous price. All increase of population to a new and -thinly-peopled country, like Buenos Ayres, just released from a -disgraceful thraldrom, ought to be viewed as a benefit: the well -informed know it to be so. - -The British medical practitioners at Buenos Ayres are--Drs. Leper, -Dick, Oughan,[8] Jenkinson, and Whitfield: the two last are -apothecaries. Drs. Leper and Dick are surgeons in his majesty's navy, -and are allowed to be men of talent, and have good practice. - - [8] Dr. Oughan has returned to England, in the _Kingfisher_ packet: - some eccentricities in the doctor's conduct occasioned the British - consul to make application for his being sent home. - -A physician here is not so profitable a concern as in England: the -guinea fee dwindles to a dollar per visit, though to a favourite doctor -they make presents. Once, in London, I remember seeing thirty single -guineas, for as many visits, lying upon a doctor's table, the result -of a morning's work; and this was thought but little, to pay for house -expences, carriage, &c. - -A Medical Board has been formed here, which, a short time since, -examined into the qualifications of the different medical men, -propounding questions which, I am told, would have puzzled Esculapius -himself to answer. Two unfortunate Irishmen were caught in the trap, -and forbidden to practise. Paddy, at no time, likes his talent to be -depreciated: accordingly, one of them took up the pen, and wrote a long -philippic; the other did not confine himself to this, but made use of -language, in the full senate of medical sages, that consigned him to a -dungeon for three weeks, and he was afterwards banished the country. A -French doctor was suspended, for an error in the accouchement of a lady. - -There is a North-American doctor (Bond), and plenty of native ones. - -I should think this would be an excellent place for quack doctors; -indeed, they are beginning the trade already. A medicine called -_Panquimagoge_, invented by a man named Le Roy, "the immortal Le Roy," -as the papers stated, was puffed up, as being a certain cure for -all complaints, equalling the miracles of Prince Hohenlohe. He who -doubted the efficacy of _Panquimagoge_, was rated an _ignoramus_. Its -discoverer, it was added, had a statue of gold erected to his memory in -the Havannah. During this infatuation, the medicine sold at an enormous -price; but the bubble soon burst: several persons became seriously -ill, and others absolutely lost their lives, by taking it. The former -enthusiasts looked quite "chop-fallen." Strange to say, several -Englishmen were the dupes of this quackery; indeed, the old and young, -healthy and infirm, all took _Panquimagoge_. - -Several English have purchased _estancias_, or farms for breeding of -cattle; but, I fear, they will find some difficulty in competing with -the natives, who have every advantage over them in this branch of -commerce. - -The British Commercial Subscription Room, in Buenos Ayres, is a concern -entirely British; and none but those of that nation are, by the laws -of the room, allowed to subscribe. The present subscribers are about -fifty-six; and it is supported at a moderate expence. It has been -established since the year 1810, and affords not only a relaxation, -but a source of continual information. A constant look-out is kept for -vessels arriving and departing; and entries are made of them, and sent -home. By means of excellent telescopes, national flags can be discerned -at a great distance. They have a constant supply of English newspapers: -the Courier, the Times, Morning Chronicle, Bell's Messenger, Liverpool -and other Gazettes, as well as those of Buenos Ayres, Price Currents, -Shipping List, Quarterly Review, Edinburgh Review, Navy List, and other -publications. The room contains the best maps of Arrowsmith, of the four -quarters of the globe; charts of the river Plate; a picture of Nelson's -death, finely executed, and another of the battle of Copenhagen. -A committee have the management of the room, but its general -superintendence devolves on the secretary. Correct mercantile -information can always be obtained there; and every stranger is at -perfect liberty to collect the news of the day, although, from the -nature of the institution, none but British subjects can subscribe. -To enjoy the privilege of reading in the rooms, the parties must be -regularly introduced by a subscriber.[9] All British residents of -respectability are expected to subscribe. - - [9] Clerks are no longer permitted to enter the reading-room, unless - they subscribe, or make application to their employers for a ticket: - this they have declined to do, and keep aloof from the room, depriving - themselves of their chief source of amusement. - -The members dine together once in every quarter, at Faunch's hotel, and -discuss the affairs of the society. - -The British Commercial Room is held in the house of Mrs. Clark,[10] Dona -Clara; and what person has visited Buenos Ayres without hearing of this -lady--the "Lady Bountiful" of the place? - - [10] Mrs. C. formerly possessed a handsome competence, gained by - keeping an hotel; but her fortune has been much reduced, by advances - made to her late husband, Captain Taylor, and by losses in different - speculations. She has now retired from business, and lives upon a - moderate annuity. Her adopted daughter, Dona Panchita, who is grown - a fine girl, resides with her. Captain Taylor was a visionary, yet a - good-hearted man; he died in October, 1822. I am informed that it was - he who first lowered the Royal Spanish flag, and hoisted the Patriot - flag, at the Fort, at the beginning of the revolution. - -There is a library of English books attached to the room, consisting of -600 volumes, and which is every day increasing. It is a distinct affair; -and natives of all countries can subscribe to it. Several Creole -gentlemen, who speak English, North Americans, &c. belong to it. The -secretary to the Commercial Room acts as librarian. - -Some individuals have attributed illiberality to the Commercial Room, in -not permitting those of other nations to become members; but, waiving -the right which the British have for an establishment of their own, if -they like to support it, Great Britain might be involved in war, and it -could not then be pleasant to come in daily contact with natives of -hostile countries. - -Letters arriving by British vessels were, until October, 1821, -forwarded to the Commercial Room, which collected and paid the -government the postage; but this arrangement always caused great -jealousy to foreigners, and they are now sent to the Post Office, where -every facility is afforded. Many English letters, however, to persons -up the country, never reach their destination, from the practice of -allowing any one to take letters from the office who will pay for them: -mean curiosity has caused the loss of many letters by this mode. - -The recent establishment of packets to Buenos Ayres (the first of which, -the Countess of Chichester, arrived on the 16th April, 1824) is an event -of some consequence. They bring the correspondence for Chili and Peru, -opening a direct and speedy communication with regions, which Spanish -jealousy, not many years ago, had shut out from the rest of the world. -The captains of these packets must not, for the present, expect to find -their employments to Buenos Ayres very lucrative: but little specie goes -home, and there are few passengers that can afford to pay the packet -price, which really is not exorbitant, considering the excellent -accommodations and fare provided; _viz._ For the cabin, L80 sterling; -steerage, L40. Their arrival is looked forward to with great anxiety -by all classes. At first, they made long passages; latterly, they -have improved in this respect: the _Lord Hobart_ packet came out in -forty-seven days; the _Eclipse_ brought thirteen passengers, chiefly -gentlemen connected with mining affairs. They will soon prove a -profitable employment to their commanders; and, certainly, the system -altogether reflects the highest credit upon the British government, the -only nation which has such an establishment. - -The inclination which Englishmen, engaged in business, have, when at -home, to live away from the scene of their pursuits, at a short distance -from town, is shewn here; and we have the Stockwells, the Kenningtons, -the Newingtons, the Camberwells, &c. of Buenos Ayres, with the attached -farm-yards, orchards, and gardens, similar to those in the vicinity of -London, wanting only the stages, and the eighteen-penny ride from the -Bank and Gracechurch Street. Their houses may be easily recognized, from -the degree of neatness and comfort attached. The house of Mr. Fair, -situated upon an eminence near the water-side, southward of the Fort, is -a good land-mark. Mr. F. has lately built it at a considerable expence. -Mr. Cope's house, near the Retiro, I think the most pleasantly situated -of all. - -The British have been engaged in numerous disputes with this government. -The last that occurred was in April, 1821, upon the decree ordering all -foreigners to take up arms; which the British very properly refused to -do, for it could not be expected they would submit to be made parties in -their quarrels. Captain O'Brien, of H.M.S. _Slaney_, then at anchor -in the outer roads,[11] was appointed British agent, and a long -correspondence took place. The affair was, however, settled by the -merchants, and Captain O'Brien felt displeased, conceiving that, having -been thrust forward officially, every arrangement ought to have come -through him. This quarrel caused some stir in Buenos Ayres. One or -two members of the Junta threatened us lustily; but those Tybalts -were silenced by the moderate party. Since then, Mr. Rivadavia's -administration has made every thing go on amicably and smoothly. - - [11] The _Slaney_ was stationed in the outer roads, from January, - 1821, to February, 1822. Captain Stanhope assumed the command in - October, 1821, Captain O'Brien having been promoted. A laughable event - happened during her stay in the outer roads:--She was accustomed to - signalize with the shore. One day, a black fellow was ordered to - whitewash the wall from which the signals were made on land: he was - mistaken by those on board for a signal ball; and, by a reference, - his position corresponded with the order, to bend sails. Accordingly, - the boatswain piped all hands, and never were sails bent with more - dispatch: the crew, tired of their monotonous life, felt eager to - leave, and with alacrity obeyed the command. During this time, Blackee - had taken another position on the wall: book opened again--it made - the number, to unmoor the ship. This corroboration of the first order - was hailed with joy. Another movement was imperfectly understood; it - seemed to convey--send a boat on shore for the captain; and a boat was - sent for explanation. Captain O'Brien was astonished: the wall was - examined; and there they found the black man harmlessly pursuing - his work, unconscious of the important part he had been performing, - exposed to the ardent gaze, and raising the beating hearts, of 150 - men. At a distance of eight miles from the shore, a mistake of this - sort cannot surprise. The crew were greatly disappointed, and, taking - hold of one of their shipmates, a black man, declared that, as they - amused themselves on land by making signals with one of his colour, he - should be the answering pennant. - -The dispute between Captain Willes, of H.M.S. _Brazen_, and the -government of Buenos Ayres, caused a considerable bustle. Captain W. was -ordered, by his instructions, to board all vessels of his nation upon -their arrival; in the execution of which, his boat was fired upon by the -gun-brig stationed outside. Other disagreements took place; and Captain -W. was ordered to quit the shore in two hours. He did so. When on board, -fruitless efforts took place to accommodate matters. The boats of -H.M. ship took possession of their brig, and sent her to the inner -roads. The public mind was inflamed by a string of falsehoods and -misrepresentations published in the _Centinella_ newspaper; the doors of -one or two English houses had threatening placards stuck upon them; and -a list was handed about for signatures, to avenge the insult offered -to their flag. I am not aware, if they meant to attack the _Brazen_; -volunteers for such an expedition, I should think, would have been -scarce. The British addressed a note to Captain W. soliciting, that, if -consistent with his duty, he would leave Buenos Ayres, as the present -irritation might lead to extremes. The _Brazen_ sailed for Colonia; her -captain stating, that nothing but consideration for his countrymen on -shore should have tempted him so to do: and thus the affair ended. - -The government had promised protection to British persons and property, -the quarrel being a private one; but retaliation would, no doubt, have -taken place, had Captain Willes remained, and seized any of their -vessels. The Buenos Ayres government were somewhat precipitate in their -proceedings, and wanting in their respect to the officer of a nation, -which, if not in alliance, was on terms of strictest friendship with -them. It was regretted by many, that Captain Willes refused to come on -shore, when solicited by Mr. Rivadavia. Our captain was sadly hampered -by what he conceived to be his duty, and the alarm on shore. Those -gentlemen who had been long settled in the country, with their wives and -families, wished, I have no doubt, that the Brazen had been a thousand -miles off, particularly the female branches; though none, I trust, -possessed spirits so mean, as to brook insult for the enjoyment of -present comfort. - -The outer roads had long been an object of dispute. I regret that, in -this instance, it should have deprived us of the society of an officer, -whose amiable manners and disposition delight all who have the happiness -of knowing him. At Monte Video, Captain Willes was literally adored. I -do not think the British would have been seriously molested, for they -had numerous friends in the town, and Captain Willes was not without his -advocates. A pamphlet, shortly after, appeared, said to be written by an -Englishman, exposing the malevolence of the _Centinella_. - -The appointment of consuls will prevent these disputes in future. Our -naval officers are not the best diplomatists; they would, as a member in -the House of Commons observed, "much rather fight than write." - -Some Germans, in Buenos Ayres, were in a terrible fright, lest they -should be taken for Englishmen, when the supposed work of retaliation -should begin. In complexion and appearance, they much resemble us, and -they nearly all speak English. Germans and Americans are all denominated -Englishmen by the natives; they cannot find out the distinction. -A Creole boy once told me, that he supposed every body to be my -countryman, that could say, _How do you do?_ in English. - -In the little disagreements that take place on the beach between the -sailors and the natives, the term _English brute_ is always applied to -the former. These disputes are rare, for our sailors do not mix much -amongst them. - -Mr. Woodbine Parish, the British consul-general for Buenos Ayres, -seems well adapted for the station he fills: his manners are mild and -gentlemanly. The two vice-consuls, Messrs. Griffiths and Pousset, -share in the same praise; the latter, in countenance and figure, much -resembles the royal family; if he were a trifle more portly, one might -fancy him the Duke of York. - -The different states of this part of South America, such as Entre Rios, -Cordova, Santa Fe, Mendoza, &c. sent Members, to attend the congress in -Buenos Ayres, empowering the government to act for them in the treaty -with England; which, after considerable discussion, has been signed and -ratified. Mr. Parish, attended by the vice-consuls and other gentlemen, -went in state to pay his respects to the governor upon the occasion. The -reception of the consul was, of course, flattering: the flag was hoisted -at the fort, and a gun fired. The clause which caused most debate in the -congress, was that of religious toleration. Some of the members seemed -alarmed. It was, however, allowed, with free liberty for Protestants to -build their own places of public worship. This is something gained from -ancient prejudices. I have not, however, a high opinion of English -devoutness in Buenos Ayres. We have now a sort of prayer, or methodist -meeting, held in a private house. A captain of a Liverpool brig brought -out some religious tracts, which he circulated, and hoisted the Bethel -flag in his vessel: I fear he found Buenos Ayres an uncongenial spot for -those subjects. - -Another article in this treaty which has given general satisfaction, is, -that no British subject shall be compelled to military service. In any -disputes upon this topic, the British have been the only foreigners -who have stood forward to resist it; the others have remained passive -spectators. - -On Sundays and holidays, the British and American consuls hoist the -flags of their respective nations from the tops of their houses. The -Buenos Ayres flag floats by the side of the American: Colonel Forbes, -like a skilful manager, studies the taste of the town. - -I have noticed, that many of my countrymen, in their desire to visit -their native land, still talk of returning to Buenos Ayres. They -certainly must feel some attachment to a country in which they have -lived happily for a series of years. Eight or ten years of absence from -home makes a great alteration amongst our dearest friends; some are -dead, and others are absent, or indifferent. In England, too, every one -must be content to mix with the crowd. - -A great many of the English are perfect masters of the Spanish language, -having obtained their knowledge of it by a long residence in the -country, and by coming to it at a very early age. I have been surprised -at the quickness with which English children learn it: in a few months -they are able to carry on a conversation, whilst those of riper age take -years to attain it. When a man gets near thirty years of age, he feels -little inclination to study languages. - -In mentioning any thing of the English females in Buenos Ayres, I feel -a delicacy bordering on timidity, and ought to recollect the homely -proverb, "The least said is the soonest mended." Certain, however, it -is, that, with some exceptions, they are not a fair specimen of our -country. Those placed in the higher circles are few in number, and -appear to be amiable women, as are many whom I will take the liberty of -calling the second class; but with respect to the lower orders, I can -only say, that I have been more than once reminded of the neighbourhood -of St. Giles's. In reply to some remarks of a Spanish lady, I mustered -courage to tell her, that, in spite of all the charming women of Buenos -Ayres, we had those at home who equalled, if not far surpassed them; of -which I would speedily convince her, could I, with Harlequin's wand, -waft her to my country, where they may be seen in all their charms of -beauty and splendour; and that the few who traversed the ocean, formed -no criterion, a voyage to South America being rather a serious -undertaking for a lady. - -In commenting upon the dowdy appearance which some of the British -females make in this country, I am not singular;--all my countrymen -converse upon it, and join me in my opinion. - -Families should never think of bringing pretty unmarried servant girls -with them from Europe; they are almost sure of losing them. Be the girls -ever so determined, they will find a difficulty in resisting the offers -of marriage from the numerous English bachelor mechanics, who are at a -sad loss for wives:--a Spanish wife is not to their taste. Therefore, -those who wish to keep their servants, must choose the ugliest they can -procure--something that may be an antidote to the warm passions of -our English Damons. An importation of British females with tolerable -personal charms would answer here, as well as in many other places -abroad. I wish some adventurer would beat up for recruits amongst the -nursery maids at the west end of the town in London; it would be an -excellent speculation, and serve the poor girls into the bargain. - -Several Englishmen have married Buenos Ayrean ladies; and, from all -accounts, they do not repent having done so. The worst of it is, in -marrying into Spanish families, one may be said to marry all the family, -for they expect to reside under the same roof. The English resist this, -and with success: the good sense of their wives will make them conform -to our ideas; yet the parting of a beloved daughter from the paternal -roof must be a painful task for parents, whose only consolation is in -yielding her to the arms of the man she loves. - -Englishmen married to Spanish females have been, in a degree, obliged to -conform to the Catholic ceremonies of marriage. The over-scrupulous will -start at this; but, if they have ever been in love, they will readily -conceive that these oaths of form may be swallowed with as much ease as -many of the absurd ones of our Custom-House. The difference of religion, -in liberal minds, cannot in any way disturb domestic harmony: we differ -only in forms. - -So great were religious prejudices not many years ago, that a lady would -have hesitated, and her family interfered to prevent a marriage with one -of "heretic creed." The alteration is a credit to their understandings; -it evinces that they are neither bigots nor fanatics. A generation of -children are now springing up, half English, half Creolian, speaking -both languages; their fathers teaching them English, their mothers -Spanish. Could we look a few years forward, and see these youngsters -grown to maturity, loving the land of their birth, and having a yearning -towards that of their fathers, what important consequences may not -result, in cementing friendships between nations that once regarded each -other with a rooted dislike. - -Englishmen who have married in this country, I should presume, intend -making it their adopted land. It is an alternative that would cause -me to pause: I could not consent to lose the hope of again seeing my -paternal home. Now, if I could fancy such an event, as taking my Buenos -Ayrean wife with me to London, lodging her in some fashionable mansion -near Grosvenor Square, or in the Square itself--visiting the Opera and -all the Theatres--pointing out to her Rossini, Catalani, our Braham, -Stephens, Kean, and Macready, and explaining their different talents, -poor Rosquellas, and the Senoras Tani, would be quite forgotten; and, -instead of a ride on the Barracca Road, or to San Jose de Flores, San -Isidro, &c. conducting her along the Queen's Road to Putney, Richmond, -or Windsor--taking a stroll with her in Kensington Gardens--Heavens! -whither will my imagination lead me? and why cannot I persuade some -kind-hearted Creolian to give me his daughter, and two hundred thousand -dollars, in return for the fond love I should lavish on her? - -The marriages of English people have been performed by captains of -vessels of war, or in the presence of two or three merchants, whose -signatures are said to be sufficient acts of parliament. The residence -of a consul will obviate some of these difficulties. - -The British community, in Buenos Ayres, lost one of its chief ornaments, -by a melancholy suicide, which took place in December, 1824--that of -Mr. Dallas, who cut his throat with a razor: disappointment in business -is stated to be the cause. He has not left his equal in Buenos Ayres; -his character fully warranted that expressive term in the English -language--a perfect gentleman. - -The death of Mr. Rowcroft, in Peru, caused infinite regret amongst -the British in Buenos Ayres, by whom he was much respected. He was, -probably, the first alderman of the city of London that ever crossed the -Andes. It was hard to meet his death by the bullets of foreign soldiery. -It is some consolation, that accident alone caused the fatal affair. It -is said, that he was taken for a Spanish officer, Mr. R. being clothed -in his uniform as Colonel of the City Light Horse, a dress he appeared -particularly proud of. - -A son of Sir Robert Wilson arrived here, and went to Peru; but he soon -returned, and went to the Brazils, in order to join his father's friend, -Lord Cochrane. - -Amongst my countrymen in this city, may be found some very eccentric -characters, who would be accounted originals even at home. - -Who has visited Buenos Ayres without having heard of the noisy drunken -Englishman, Jack Hall, the Caleb Quotem of the town, and who, in -appearance and dress, looked as if he had just escaped from Newgate. -Poor Jack died in July, 1824, and was carried to the grave in his own -cart, which had, for a series of years, borne so many of his countrymen -to their last abode, and on that account was called "the English -hearse." Hall was a Jack of all trades, painter, glazier, whitewasher, -&c. &c. The Spaniards, when he first arrived amongst them, viewed him as -a prodigy. - -Irishmen naturalized into American citizens, or what are called "Irish -Yankies," from time to time pass through Buenos Ayres, on their route to -different parts: I have known several. It is heart-rending to think, -that political events should thus have estranged men from their native -country, and made them its bitterest enemies. It is true, they "rail -against a rock they cannot pull down." If an excuse can be found for -them, it is that the hopes of their youth have been blighted, and that -oppression has made them aliens to their native land. North Americans -remark, that those who abuse Great Britain most in the United States -are our own countrymen. I believe it; and in the falsification of their -long-told predictions of England's downfall, there is a wider field -opened for their hate, and to brood upon what is to happen to ill-fated -England. - -As regards some Irishmen whom I have known (or, if it must be so, "Irish -Yankies"), I sincerely regret that I cannot embrace them, take them by -the hand, and call them countrymen. I have noticed them to be men of -warm imaginations; and when listening to any detail of Irish intrepidity -in the French war--and where is it that Irish blood has not flowed in -torrents for the cause of Great Britain?--their hearts appeared elated, -and they knew every Irish officer who had distinguished himself; they -spoke of his deeds with rapture, and, for the moment, assumed their -natural character of British subjects;--for, say what they will, a man -feels little enthusiasm in the glories of any nation but his own. I -congratulated one upon the change in his ideas:--he started; "No," said -he, "I regret not the past; I am, and ever will remain, an American -citizen." - - * * * * * - -There are three NORTH-AMERICAN mercantile houses--Mr. Ford; Zimmerman -and Co.; and Stewart and M'Call. The residents are few, excepting -the casual visitors. I find a difficulty in distinguishing them -from Englishmen, though a Creole friend of mine pretended to do it, -describing the Americans as generally wearing white hats, spectacles, -and carrying a stick. This observation I afterwards found tolerably -correct. We laugh at their phrases--"I guess,"--"I calculate,"--"I -expect," &c.; and they retort upon our continual use of "You know," -in conversation. It will be well for the two nations, if their future -differences consist only in laughing at each other's peculiarities of -speech. - -The North Americans carry on a considerable trade in this river, and -have brought some valuable cargoes from China and India. Flour, lumber, -a few dry goods, soap, &c. are their general import; salt vessels also -arrive from the Cape de Verd, which article is at times very profitable. -Now and then the domestic manufactures of North America are brought to -this market; but the profit of them, if any, must be very small. The -immense capital, machinery, and talent of England, must for a long time -give her the advantage over every other nation; and as regards North -America, I should not suppose it would answer her purpose to divert -her population from the health-inspiring pursuits of agriculture to a -pernicious manufacture. Their chief commerce is in flour; and owing -to one or two bad harvests in this province, the advantages have been -great. It has been sold at thirty dollars per barrel; the cost in North -America being only seven or eight. During the year 1823, upwards of -70,000 barrels of flour was thus imported into Buenos Ayres. For a -country so luxuriant in soil to be dependent upon foreigners for bread, -appears strange; but agriculture is yet young in South America. - -The North-American trade is mostly carried on in ships with supercargoes: -the captains are a superior set of men. But few English ships arrive; -they are nearly all brigs, commanded by our roughest seamen: but these -brigs often contain valuable cargoes. The Americans manage to run about -the world with small cargoes. A number of their vessels come here for -the purpose of being sold and broken up; which seems to be a good -speculation, if we may judge from the number hauled upon the beach for -that purpose: those ships that cut such a dashing figure at first sight, -have only "a goodly outside, but are rotten within." - -The circumstance of North America having been the first to acknowledge -the independence of this province has not insured to her any particular -commercial privileges. In a coffee-house, one evening, I witnessed a -serious debate amongst some Creolians; one of them, in the heat of -argument, asserted that the acknowledgment by North America was of no -more consequence to the state, than if the province of Santa Fe had done -so. The acknowledgment by Spain and England is what materially interests -them: North America, however, has decidedly paved the way for this. - -Although there are a great many North-American mechanics, yet we find -very few of them have shops of their own in Buenos Ayres. In the -manufacture of boots, shoes, hats, &c. as well as dry goods, they must -yield the palm to us. In the stores, a preference is given to English -hams, cheeses, &c.; but I have tasted American articles of this -description, of good quality. The Americans, aware of the partiality, -pass off many of their goods as English; and I have purchased American -soap with the British crown impressed upon it. - -Perhaps in no part of the world has such a marked distance been kept -between Americans and Englishmen as in Buenos Ayres; but this, I rejoice -to observe, is subsiding. Both parties are to blame. The English are -said to be the most conceited nation on earth; it may be true, but our -North-American friends have a touch of that quality likewise. When told -of this; their reply, that "their vices they inherit from us; their -virtues are peculiarly their own." - -Mr. Rodney, the minister from North America, departed this life on the -10th of June, 1824. His death was sudden, from an attack of apoplexy. -The evening previous to his decease, he had a large assemblage of -visitors at his house. He was a plain republican of the old school, and -much esteemed by all parties: he has left a large family. The government -of Buenos Ayres evinced the most marked respect to his memory.[12] -Colonel Forbes is the Secretary of Legation: he has been in Buenos Ayres -since October, 1820, and acted as agent to the United States till the -arrival of Mr. Rodney. - - [12] The following are extracts from the decrees issued by the - government on the occasion:-- - - "A sepulchral monument, at the expense of the government, shall be - raised over the remains of the Honourable Caesar Augustus Rodney, as a - memorial of gratitude. - - "In the funeral rites to be observed towards so distinguished a - citizen, the following orders shall be executed. A Battalion of - Infantry, with four pieces of Light Artillery, shall be stationed at - the place where the body is to be buried. As the corpse leaves the - house of his decease, the fort shall fire a national salute. Another - similar salute shall be executed by the Light Artillery, on the entry - of the corpse into the cemetery. On putting it into the grave, the - battalion being formed, shall fire a general discharge. - - "The general staff of the army, and the chiefs of all the departments, - shall be invited to meet at the house of the government, to accompany - the ministers during the said funeral rites." - - The funeral was the grandest thing of the sort ever seen in this - country. A great concourse of people of all nations attended, on - horse and foot; not the least remarkable of whom were the Catholic - clergymen. In the detail published of the ceremonies, we read the - following observations:-- - - "In addition to the civil authorities who attended, it was peculiarly - pleasing to all the Protestants, to observe the public respect shewn - by the attendance of the head of the church, and many of the most - distinguished Catholic clergymen, the Rector of the University, - &c.; proclaiming, in the most unequivocal manner, the increasing - liberality of this Catholic people. They had, before, kindly granted - the Protestants the privilege of a burial-ground; and on this - occasion they attended, with the greatest respect, to all the - exercises of the funeral, and mingled their sympathies with our's. - Their high-minded example in this instance is at once indicative - of the elevation and nobleness of their character, and worthy the - imitation of Christians of every name and country." - - Mr. Rivadavia made an oration over the grave; the concluding words - ran thus:-- - - "Illustrious soul of Caesar Augustus Rodney! return to the bosom - of thy Creator, with the elevation and confidence to which you - are entitled. Being his image here on earth, separate not thy - compassionate regard from this country, which is so highly honoured - in preserving your remains. Yes, we will preserve them, as the most - precious treasure that this soil can receive." [_Taking some earth in - his hand._] "And thou earth! that art going to cover these venerable - remains, receive also the honour of being mingled with the most - fruitful seeds of virtue, and cause it to produce similar heroes, - that may immortalize the American name." - - * * * * * - -The FRENCH are numerous in Buenos Ayres; report says, they are equal in -number to the British, but I do not believe it. Their trade here, what -there is of it, must be advantageous: they bring every requisite for the -ladies' toilet; fans, silk stockings, perfumery, scented waters, gloves, -jewellery, and those nic-nacs in which the French so much excel. Some -shops make a great figure in French goods, as silks, shawls, and every -essential to gratify female taste. Roquin, Meyer, & Co. is the chief -mercantile French house; but there are numbers of Buenos Ayrean and -other firms, that import largely from France, as do also some English -houses. - -There are many gentlemanly and intelligent men amongst the French -settled in Buenos Ayres; but the mass will not bear a comparison with -the British in point of respectability. Frenchmen themselves allow this, -and laugh at the billiard-markers and waiters of Parisian growth. The -superior class are to be found in the best societies of the city. Their -lively manners and conversation have ever been a contrast to the reserve -of the English; and, as companions, they may be more sought after than -my modest countrymen: a Frenchman is at home in all countries. - -The English likewise visit the first families, and give at times -splendid entertainments, or _tertulias_; yet, I have fancied, they -appear more happy when amongst themselves. Their behaviour has been -attributed to pride and many other causes: the French term "_mauvaise -honte_," affords a better solution. Notwithstanding these drawbacks, I -am convinced, the British character is esteemed; and, however the French -may beat us in companionship, they cannot deprive us of that esteem. - -The news of Napoleon's death caused great tribulation in French society -at Buenos Ayres. It was some time ere they would believe it; it must be -a trick, they said, of the English; and until the causes of his death -became so well authenticated, expressions of foul play were more than -whispered. Their love for this "man of blood" has ceased to astonish -me: were I a Frenchman, it is probable I should love him too.[13] On -Bonaparte's birth-day, in 1821, I observed the tri-coloured flag, waving -from a French _pulperia_ near the beach. This flag, once so formidable, -and which made every Briton prepare for "bloody fight," now floats -harmlessly in Buenos Ayres, being used as a signal for merchant vessels. - - [13] A translation of O'Meara's work, in French, has appeared in - Buenos Ayres, with the consequent conclusion, that Sir Hudson Lowe - must be a perfect brute. In Spanish, we have one or two diatribes - against the British government, and their tyranny exercised on the - seas; but the malignity so apparent in the observations destroys their - effect. - - * * * * * - -A great many PORTUGUESE are residents of Buenos Ayres, as merchants, -shopkeepers, &c.; they carry on a constant commerce with the Brazils. - -The jealousy, bordering upon contempt, in which the Spaniards affect -to hold the Portuguese, is very conspicuous here. At the theatre, -when a Portuguese character is represented, the performer is arrayed -fantastically, strutting about the stage with self-assumed importance, -amidst vehement laughter and applause, as fervent and more boisterous -than that bestowed upon Sheridan's "little cunning Portuguese," Isaac -Mendoza. - - * * * * * - -GERMANS, ITALIANS, and, indeed, the natives of all countries, are to be -met with in Buenos Ayres, as merchants, store and shopkeepers, &c. - -Mr. Schmaling, agent to the PRUSSIAN _Linen Company_, has lately -established an extensive mercantile house in Buenos Ayres. The Prussian -cloths and flannels have been bought with much avidity, a preference -being given to them from their being cheaper, and some say better than -our's. Mr. S. sold his cloths 20 per cent. cheaper than the English -could afford to sell. It is hard to be undersold in a foreign market, in -what was once considered our staple commodity. British skill, however, I -have no doubt, will surmount this temporary advantage: the repeal of the -wool tax may be one step towards it. - - * * * * * - -PERSONS, DISPOSITIONS, and MANNERS of the NATIVE or SPANISH -INHABITANTS.--It might be supposed, from the latitude in which Buenos -Ayres is situated, that the faces and general appearance of the natives -would partake of a dusky hue: as regards the male sex, this is certainly -the case, though here and there the reverse is seen. Of the females, -however, many can boast a countenance of roses and lilies, equal to -those of a colder climate. Amongst the mulatto cast, there are some -pretty girls. I have noticed that some distinctions are kept up, -the word _mulatto_ being often used as a term of reproach: this is -illiberal. One or two families of red-haired children are rather -remarkable in a country where the darker hue predominates. I really -thought they were of Scotch extraction, till I was informed to the -contrary. Some scandalous wits have dared to be jocular on the occasion, -asserting that they must be the offspring of Beresford's Scotch -regiment, the 71st, who were here in 1806. - -It is rarely we see, in Buenos Ayres, a person marked with the small -pox, vaccination being generally practised;[14] and very few deformed -people. Indeed, the generality of them may be called handsome. The young -men are well grown, possess good figures, and their manners render them -truly agreeable. - - [14] Foreign nations duly appreciate this invaluable discovery. In - England alone, the birth-place of its immortal author, a portion (I - believe, a very small one) still persist in denying its efficacy: "A - prophet is no prophet in his own country." - -Faces may be seen here, of female beauty, worthy a painter's study;--the -intelligent dark eye, polished forehead, and persons moulded by grace -itself. England is called the land of beauty, and it deserves its name; -but beauty is not peculiar to England alone. Buenos Ayres contains -within its walls as much loveliness as imagination can dream of.[15] - - [15] Conspicuous amongst the fair-haired beauties of Buenos Ayres, is - the Senorita Dona Segunda Iglesia. This young lady (and she is not yet - sixteen) is a perfect Hebe. Dona Isaaca, her sister, two years younger - than herself, forms a charming counterpart of the fair Segunda. - - Another accomplished and elegant girl, whom we Englishmen have named - the Marchioness (from her likeness in face to the Marchioness of - Hertford), attracts much admiration. She is an enthusiast in music: - at the theatre, when the orchestra performs any of her favourite - airs, her animated countenance evinces the emotion which this divine - science inspires. - -The stately elegance of walk, for which the Spanish ladies are so -remarkable, is in no place more conspicuous than in Buenos Ayres; and it -is not confined to the upper class--females of all descriptions possess -it; one must therefore conclude it to be an acquired accomplishment. If -my fair countrywomen would deign to imitate them in this respect, and -get rid of that ungraceful postman-like pace they now have, I should -love them all the better. - -The inhabitants possess a happy medium between French vivacity and -English reserve. An Englishman feels at home with them; for should he be -deficient in the language, he need not fear that his blunders will be -laughed at. In sickness, they are proverbial for their kind attention, -as many of my countrymen have experienced, preparing every little -delicacy they think will please. It is only to know these people, to -esteem them. - -Their happy disposition, and having so few real cares, protect them -from suicide, that calamity which afflicts populous Europe. The future -provision for a family, indeed, scarcely enters their thoughts, in a -country where "a fathom of beef can be purchased for sixpence." This -expression was used by an English "beach-ranger," when trying to prevail -upon some of a Falmouth packet's crew to desert. - -Although there may be families who, in the common acceptation of -the term, are well off, yet I do not think there are many who are -extraordinarily rich, that is to say, worth from 30 to L50,000 sterling. -Houses, cattle, and land constitute the best property. - -The enthusiasm with which the Spaniards regard the female sex, like most -other things, has, doubtless, been exaggerated. In Buenos Ayres, if they -have not exactly caught this enthusiasm, they have done better: their -attentions are founded on real respect to the virtues of the sex, and -are therefore more likely to last. - -The character given to Spaniards of all descriptions for jealousy of -their females, must have been either fabulous, or a great change has -taken place; for nothing approaching to it can be observed in their -descendants here. The gentlemen conduct themselves with the most marked -politeness towards the females, paying them the greatest attention and -respect. I have heard it asserted, that they make negligent husbands. In -every populous city, no doubt, many of this class are to be found; but -those Buenos Ayrean husbands, whom I have the pleasure of knowing, seem -devotedly attached to their wives, behaving with a tenderness not every -day found even in England, that land of domestic felicity. - -The ladies appear equal in affection; and are kind and tender mothers. -It is pleasing to see the care and fondness they bestow on their -children. A stranger need not be a day in Buenos Ayres without -discovering this; and such traits speak volumes. They do not follow the -unmotherly practice of putting their infants out to nurse, thinking it -no disgrace to suckle their own offspring. In my opinion, there is as -fair a proportion of married happiness in this city, as can be found in -those that bear a name of being more domesticated. - -The compliments of salutation are much the name as in England with the -gentlemen, _viz._ the good old hearty shake of the hand. The French -embrace of the males, kissing each other, is not followed; for which I -am better pleased. Much as I esteem my friends of Buenos Ayres, I wish -no other than female lips to touch my cheek. The salutation of the -females, on bidding adieu for long journeys, or on returning from one, -is kissing and embracing each other: in this respect they differ but -little from British females--perhaps a little more fervent. I have seen -ladies, when returned from a voyage to Monte Video, hug their old black -servant, who has come to meet them on the beach, with all the ardour of -affection, so different from our notions of propriety. - -Should a lady be seized with a fit of yawning, she crosses herself with -the most burlesque sanctity. The style in which they cross themselves, -requires a rehearsal to understand it: they touch the cheeks, chin, and -bosom, quick, with the thumb, or, as a military man would denominate it, -"in double quick time." - -A very pleasing practice exists, of giving flowers to visitors, as a -mark of respect: some fair lady hands a rose or tulip. I recollect, a -charming girl gave me a rose, a few days after my arrival, and my vanity -was not a little gratified by it; and I felt some mortification in -finding it was only the common civility of the place. - -Smoking segars is a general practice--I might almost add, with men, -women, and children; the ladies of the better class always excepted, -though report says, they will, in secret, take the luxury of a segar. I -hope report has erred in this respect--indeed, I think it has; for such -an outrage against my English feelings, as a Buenos Ayrean lady smoking, -would abate much of the enthusiasm I feel for them. In the male sex I -like to see it; and the pleasure it seems to afford, has repeatedly made -me regret that I am no smoker. Here boys of eight, nine, and ten years -of age, may be seen smoking. - -The English soon get into the fashion; and most of them are as fond of -the segar as the natives, who are smoking from the time they get up, -until they go to bed. If they ride on horseback, a segar is in their -mouths. Should they want a light in the streets, it is only to stop the -first person they meet smoking, to obtain one. I have often smiled to -see a first-rate Creolian dandy lighting his segar from that of some -dirty black fellow. - -Havannah segars are the favourites; but they are dear, and not at all -times to be had in perfection. The paper ones, or segars de Hoja, made -from the tobacco-leaf, are mostly used, and by many preferred. The -manufacture of them affords employment to a great many people, including -females. - -So refined are their ideas of politeness, that a person smoking -invariably takes the segar from his mouth, when passing another in the -street. - -In another branch of politeness, Buenos Ayres is not outdone, even by -Paris itself; _viz._ the constant custom of taking off the hat, when -meeting each other in the street. The English mode of touching the hat -is too groom and footman-like, to be followed here: their's is taken -entirely from the head; and, when in compliment to ladies, they remain -uncovered until the objects of their politeness have passed. It is -managed gracefully--removing the hat from behind, similar to those -who are accustomed to wear wigs; it may be, to save the fronts from -dilapidation, which such continual calls on them would occasion.[16] - - [16] I remember once meeting a Frenchman at Paris, whom I had known at - London in rather indifferent circumstances. He had obtained an office - in the palace of the Thuilleries; and, upon my congratulating him - thereon, he said, that it was all very well, except the d----d hat - business. On asking for an explanation, he stated, that, being a - public officer, he was obliged to take his hat off so often, that it - cost him L30 per annum for that single article. - -The plant called _yerba_, the growth of Paraguay and the Brazils, is -the tea of Buenos Ayres. They drink it out of a small globe, to which -a tube is fixed, nearly as long as our tobacco-pipe; it is called the -matte-pot, and the beverage drawn from the yerba, is the _matte_. These -pots are generally of silver; and they hand them from one to the other, -in drinking--a practice not the most cleanly. When I first saw the tubes -in the ladies' mouths, I conceived they were smoking. Matte has not a -bad flavour, but nothing equal to tea. It is reported by some to be -pernicious to the teeth. In visiting parties it is always handed round. -It carries such an idea of the tobacco-pipe, that I do not much admire -seeing these matte-pots in the hands of ladies. - -The general time of meals in Buenos Ayrean families is pretty nearly -as follows:--They have _matte_ the first thing, which they often take -in bed; at eight or nine, they have what we should call breakfast, -beef-steaks, &c.; dinner at two and three; _matte_ at six and seven, -followed often by a supper. The fashionable London hours of breakfasting -at one and two in the afternoon, and dining at eight and nine in the -evening, have not travelled to this quarter of the globe yet. They drink -wine out of tumbler glasses. - -The _siesta_, or afternoon nap, is not so regularly taken as formerly: -they have got more into the habits of business, and cannot afford time -for sleeping in the day; and it does away with the remark, that, during -_siesta_ time, nobody is to be seen in the streets, but Englishmen and -dogs. The _siesta_ has its regular season; it is supposed to begin with -the summer season, in October, and end at the close of the summer, or -passion week. The plodding and industrious world cry out against this -practice, as encouraging sloth; but I think a nap after dinner, in warm -latitudes, both refreshing and conducive to health. - -Houses are not provided with the convenience of bells: their servants -are summoned either by calling, or making a noise upon the tables. At -meals, the servants and slaves are in attendance at the table. - -They retire to rest, in winter, at ten or eleven; in summer, later, as -at this season they enjoy the cool of the evening from the azoteas, or -from seats near the windows. - -A walk in the streets on a fine summer's night is not uninteresting, -from the number of ladies walking and at the windows. Evening is the -time devoted by ladies to shopping. A night previous to a holiday or -Sunday, the shops are crowded. - -In families of respectability, which have unmarried daughters, weekly -_tertulias_, or public dances, are often held during the winter, which, -they say, are for the purpose of shewing the young ladies off, and -getting them husbands: as I am not in the secret, I only give it as I -hear it. - -These dances are got up at very little expence or preparation. One -of the ladies presides at the piano; the refreshments are cakes, -sweetmeats, and liqueurs: a few dollars provides for all; and I like -their plan--it looks more like a friendly entertainment. The sumptuous -repasts provided on such occasions in England, bespeak so much of -ceremony as considerably to mar the pleasure. - -On birth-days, compliments are sent and received, with presents of -sweetmeats, &c. and dinners and tertulias are given. Those days are more -kept up than with us; but the itinerant musicians, about the doors, has -a little fallen off lately. - -Sweetmeats are much eaten, and by the children in large quantities. In -coffee-houses they sprinkle the toast with sugar: an English child would -call them "sugar-babies." I am not dentist enough to decide whether -this is one of the causes of decayed teeth, so often observed in young -people, and the prevailing malady of the tooth-ache; but persons are -continually seen with their faces tied up for this complaint: it is, -indeed, a disease of the country. Bad teeth is a sad drawback, as they -are both "useful and ornamental;" and the purchase of new teeth and -gums, in Buenos Ayres, would be rather difficult: besides, all the world -must know about it. In London and Paris, such things pass as nothing. - -When walking in public, the female rarely takes the arm of a gentleman, -except it be night. This seems to us an unsocial fashion. At dark, -however, the restriction ceases, and ladies will then honour us by -accepting our arm: with married persons this is more common. The -Englishman and his wife, in spite of Spanish modes, are seen trotting -comfortably along the Alameda, on a Sunday, arm-in-arm, as if at home. - -Neither is it the fashion for gentlemen to escort the ladies, but to the -theatre, or public places: their visits and shopping are in company only -with their own sex. If a fair lady should wave this rule, and allow -us to proceed by their side for a few streets, it would be the height -of vulgarity to offer the arm. In England we have other notions of -gentility. - -At the ball room, the females sit together, when not engaged in dancing. -During this pause, some gentleman will, with hesitating steps, approach -them, and solicit a lady to waltz, or dance a minuet with him. - -The Spaniards pride themselves upon the delicacy and respect with which -they treat the females; and though there are many Spanish customs which -I think "more honoured in the breach than the observance," this is one, -I trust, will last for ever. - -The Buenos Ayreans are passionately fond of dancing. Their evening hours -are given to this pastime: in their houses, daughters, mothers, nay, -grandmothers, will enjoy it with all the spirit of youth. To me it is -the most gratifying sight--a proof that age is not always accompanied by -moroseness. I have been delighted to see father, mother, daughters, and -sons, dancing with that apparent happiness, as if life had no other -object but enjoyment. - -Walking in the environs of the town, one evening, a family dance -attracted my attention; and I looked through the windows. The ladies saw -me, and the master of the house came out, entreating me to enter, with -the Spanish compliment, "that his house and family were entirely at my -service." He seemed disappointed at my declining the invitation. These -evening family dances are very fascinating. - -It is said, a Frenchman, from his gaiety, never gets old; the -observation applies with equal truth to this people. In our peculiar -England, education, climate, and the state of society, render its -inhabitants more thoughtful and care-worn: we regard as frivolity what -other nations consider the essentials of existence; yet, in general, we -are not the gloomy people foreigners would paint us. We can love, and -hate, too, with all or more of the fervour ascribed to warmer climes. - -Of the dances, some are pretty. The steps of the Spanish dances have a -great sameness. The ladies appear graceful; but, indeed, when is it they -do not? - -The _cielito_, or little heaven, is opened by the parties chaunting a -part of a song all the time in movement, and smacking their fingers -together; it then proceeds to the figure. - -The _contre-danse_ is involved in intricacies and positions rather -difficult to a stranger; twisting the arms, and running in and out, -like the game of Thread-my-needle, or, excepting the tumbling part, the -comic dance in Mother Goose. The English contre-danse has more life and -variety both in music and figure. - -Waltzing is a favourite: they have not read the lectures of our -moralists upon it, but indulge in the mazes of this luxurious dance. - -The minuet dance here is, I think, tame and ungraceful. - -The piano forte is the favourite musical instrument; and every -well-educated young lady is supposed to possess some knowledge of it. -I have heard them perform with great taste and skill. The young and -interesting daughter of Don Cornelius Saavedra, Dona Dominga, I thought, -excelled; and, with instruction, would be a proficient. This young lady, -with a countenance just "budding into beauty," has talents, which, if -properly cultivated, will adorn society. Her father, Don Cornelius, was -the first Director of the Province after the Revolution, and one of the -old and respectable families. His manners are very pleasing: in person, -he much resembles a British general officer. Like many others, he has -forsaken the sword for the ploughshare, and resides upon his estate, -ninety miles from town, on the banks of the Parana. - -A good piano will sell for 1000 dollars: the English, in this likewise, -take the lead, and those of Clementi, Stodart, &c. are found in many -houses; Miss Saavedra has a fine-toned one of Clementi's. The French and -German pianos do not readily sell. - -Male teachers of music (and, on mentioning these, the remark of -Anastasius occurs to me) find good employment in this city, where all -are so musical. An English lady, Miss Robinson, gives lessons on this -heavenly science. - -The Consulado musical school-rooms, with the young ladies warbling -there on a morning, repeatedly attract the attention of the passing -pedestrian. At one o'clock, attended by their mammas and slaves, with -music-book under arm, those little syrens trudge home. On one or two -occasions, there has been a public trial of musical skill, a sort of -show-off before their relations and friends. - -A musical subscription society, called The Philharmonics, has been -established, and the most respectable natives and foreigners are -subscribers. The vocal and instrumental performers from the theatre -attend there. It is a superior affair, and held in a spacious sala of -what was formerly a prison--the "Coona:" Orpheus has driven away the -ministers of justice. - -Using an English phrase, the mothers of Buenos Ayres keep "a sharp -look-out" after their daughters, attending them to public places, and in -the streets. Should the mother, by any chance, be absent, the care is -probably delegated to a slave or servant, who may have their secret -orders whispered to them, as well as other trusty centinels. But cannot -the slave be bribed? If report speaks true, they are so; and the ardent -lover has been ready to embrace the black messenger that has conveyed to -him tidings from a beloved mistress. - -Young ladies before marriage are, by some mothers, watched with great -strictness, not unlike austerity. I fear, females here, as well as in -other countries, have often given their hands without their hearts. -"Why did you marry?" said a friend of mine to a lady who seemed unhappy. -"To gain my liberty," she eagerly exclaimed, "as many others have done -before me." - -Marriage with the Buenos Ayres female takes place at an early age, -frequently at thirteen and fourteen. Certain it is, they ripen into -womanhood much sooner than those of our clime; and their beauties more -quickly fade. An English female at forty looks as young as a Buenos -Ayrean at thirty. How many charming and attractive women we find in -England at the age of forty; and though I cannot quite agree with our -gracious sovereign in his admiration of "fair, fat, and forty," -yet I have known, at home, some ladies at that age with charms and -acquirements sufficient to alarm a sensitive heart. In Buenos Ayres -I have likewise seen females whose beauty seems to improve as years -advance; but this is a rare occurrence. - -In marriage, the custom of all the family living together seems strange -to English ideas, and we cannot help picturing petty jealousies and -quarrels amongst such a groupe. Custom, however, and their natural -happy temper, free from the corroding cares of more populous countries, -prevent these. I cannot help admiring their happiness in this respect, -and I trust they may long enjoy it. I know the misery I should feel, -were I a father, to see a beloved child depart for ever from the -parental roof. - -Married females still preserve their maiden name, conjoined with that of -their husband's. The children by such marriage bear the surname of the -father. The saint's-day on which they may be born provides them with a -Christian name; and, as the Romish church has a saint for every day in -the calendar, the difficulties that the Rev. Mr. Shandy had to encounter -are avoided. - -In the lottery of names, people of all classes take their chance. It is -rather droll to hear the black girls addressing each other by the names -of Eugenia, Marcela, Florencia, &c. Some fair ladies bear the pretty -romantic names of Rosaria, Irene, Magdalena, Victoria, Martina, -Fortunata, Celestina, Adriana, &c. whilst others, not so fortunate in -their time of coming into the world, are obliged to be content with the -ordinary ones of Juana, Tomasa, &c. But what is there in a name? a rose -would smell as sweet under any other name. - -John is unquestionably the most vulgar of all names; it is worse -than Tom: every body applies it, when unacquainted with one's real -appellation. In Buenos Ayres, a stranger is addressed as "Don Juan." The -Toms and Jacks of the Spanish vocabulary are softened down into Tomas -and Juan. - -The Spanish custom, when speaking or writing to an individual, of using -the Christian name instead of the surname, is very pleasing; and as I -am a great lover of the romantic, it will necessarily follow, that I am -more charmed with Don Carlos, Don Henrico, Don Guillermo, &c. than plain -Mr. Smith, Mr. Wilkins, and Mr. Tomkins; and Dona Clara, Dona Dominga, -and Dona Saturnina, than Miss Williams, Miss White, and Miss Brown. - -Respectable families think it no disgrace to let lodgings, take in -washing, make and mend clothes and linen: these occupations are not -looked upon as belonging to the inferior orders, as with us. Their -slaves perform the laborious part.[17] I was not a little surprised, -when I first arrived, to have an application from the wife of an Alcalde -to perform any jobs in needle-work that I might have. I concluded the -lady meant to jest. The wife of an Alcalde, a sitting magistrate, to -take in needle-work! thought I. What would the Sir Richard Birnies and -the other sages of Bow-street, Marlborough-street, &c. say to this? - - [17] The washerwomen of Buenos Ayres present a singular spectacle to a - stranger. They pursue their avocation on the beach; and this soap-sud - army extends for nearly two miles: all the washing of the town is - performed there, by black women-slaves, and servants. At a distance - upon the water, it looks like surf breaking upon the shore. They wash - well, extending the linen upon the ground to dry. Robberies amongst - them are punished by ducking. A wedding, or other joyous ceremony, - is celebrated with African magnificence: a canopy is formed from the - linen, and the heroine of the day placed under it; red handkerchiefs - for flags are carried upon sticks, with saucepans, drums, &c. They - dance pas-seuls, after the mode of Guinea and Mosambique, I presume. - The music consists of singing and clapping of hands; thunders of - applause follow--Parisot and Angiolini never received more; a general - shout ends the entertainments. Their adherence to African customs is - a peculiar trait. At the approach of rain, confusion seems at its - height, and "chaos come again;" the ladies hurrying in all directions, - to save their linen from "the pitiless storm." - -Washing is dear--four to ten dollars per month, according to the clothes -washed. - -Slavery has been abolished here, since the year 1810: those born prior -to that time, remain slaves.[18] The humanity of the Spaniards to their -slaves, compared with other nations, is well known: in Buenos Ayres they -are treated with great kindness. The female slaves are often placed more -on the footing of friends, than either slaves or servants. They attend -their ladies when visiting, seating themselves on the ground in the -room in which their mistress may be, and witnessing the dances that -continually take place amongst the members of families. These slave -girls, in consequence, become quite knowing and accomplished, in -their way; and, from being so much in the fashionable world, imitate -their superiors. I have observed them dance the minuet, and Spanish -_contre-danse_, with great elegance. The men slaves, when deserving, -are treated with equal kindness: it does honour to the humane hearts of -their employers; and I almost adore them for it. In other countries, -it has been my lot to see those unfortunate people treated with -barbarity--even by my own countrymen. No ill effects in the end can -possibly result from kind behaviour to the slaves: in Buenos Ayres, -they appear affectionate, happy, and grateful. Of course, discontented -spirits are to be found; but I speak in a general sense. Of an evening -(though I believe it is not a constant rule), I have seen female slaves -seated in the same chamber with their mistress and family, at -needle-work. - - [18] I heard a slave boy once complaining, that he was a most - unfortunate fellow, in having been born only one day before the decree - passed for the abolition of slavery: "Could I have remained unborn," - said he, "only one day longer, I should have been a happy boy, and no - slave." - -Slaves can demand their paper, that is, the deed which binds them, and -seek other employers; and, for cruelty, can allege a complaint with the -_alcalde_. For serious misbehaviour, a proprietor can have them punished -by flogging, &c. There are other chastisements for females. - -The men slaves are not numerous; a great portion of them having enlisted -as soldiers. - -The English prefer having servants, to slaves, in their houses, and have -purchased but few. Those black gentlemen, in the employ of Englishmen, -have picked up a little of our language, which they are proud of -displaying. - -A great many North-American black men are about the town, and on the -beach; crowding the _pulperias_. - -The negroes have great confidence in the effect of charms for different -diseases: they stick a small bean-shell to the forehead for the -headache; another for the tooth-ache, &c. They wear, likewise, round the -neck, a cross, with a piece of leather in the shape of a small morocco -purse, like those sold in London: this is a religious badge. - -The excellent and orderly conduct observed by the lower order of people -in the streets, compared with other countries, is very remarkable: no -obscene insulting jests meet the ear; and persons may accompany modest -females in the street, without dread of molestation from the groups of -all descriptions strolling about, who evince towards the stranger every -respect: we cannot but esteem them, for thus contributing to render a -foreigner's abode in this city so free from apprehension. - -The riotous noise of the English lower orders is by some called one of -the evils of liberty, and I could not consent to curtail that liberty -even to purchase civility from them. I should, however, be glad if they -would condescend to copy, in some degree, Buenos Ayrean manners. I do -not wish them to be servile--good manners is not servility; but to -moderate that effusion of liberty, descending sometimes to ferocity. - -Drunkenness is not a vice of this country; the rabble of blacks and -porters are at times so. The mechanic employs his spare hours with -the guitar: on a summer's night, the doors and windows are open, when -they are to be seen singing, and dancing, and smoking the segar. My -countrymen of the same grade, at home, prefer the comforts of society -in a public house, where they can, over their grog and song, damn the -ministers and taxes, swearing that they are true-born Britons, back and -bone. - -From the orderly conduct observed in the streets of Buenos Ayres, -a stranger would suppose it a most moral city; we have no drunken -disorderly females, creating abhorrence and disgust. Intrigue is common -enough, but then it is modestly managed: besides, a lady's frailty is -not considered an offence so heinous as in our scrupulous England; more -compassion exists for the lovely sinners. Here are no crim. con. actions -to amuse some amorous judge and counsel, and inflame the passions. - -This country has its portion of beggars, who are, at times, very -annoying, besieging the court-yards, &c. The best way to get rid of -them is to exclaim "_Perdone por Dios!_" (pardon for God's sake). This -expression, singular as it may appear, seldom fails in its effect; but -"_Perdone por Dios!_" would have but little chance amongst the sturdy -beggars of Europe. - -The operation of lousing, so common in old Spain, is followed here, in -a degree, amongst a particular class. It is a most unseemly sight, for -female fingers to perform the office of combs. - -A great aversion used to exist to reside in a house in which a person -had died of a fever, until it was thoroughly cleaned. - -A savings bank has been established, upon the English plan; I doubt -if it will suit the meridian of Buenos Ayres: they are too careless -of to-morrow. If beef was one real per pound, their ideas would be -different; the labourer would be more industrious, and not refuse to -work on a rainy day, which is the case now. A tolerable sum has been -collected for the savings bank. - -A propensity to gaming exists with the Buenos Ayreans; I mean with the -male part. The vices of London's fashionable dames, in this respect, are -not followed by the fair that inhabit the banks of La Plata. - -There are no houses publicly appropriated for gaming, the government -having discountenanced this: but what can impede the infatuated -gamester? A few nights after my arrival, I visited a gambling-house; -they were playing a game like those of our E.O. tables. The police -entered;--I thought they were going to take us all into custody, in -the London mode; but they were more considerate, and only took the -principals: several Englishmen were in the room. If I am correctly -informed, Buenos Ayres contains individuals who, in the management of -the dice-box, might cope with gentlemen in the parish of St. James, -which some South American deputies, resident in London, can vouch for. - -Even the boys of Buenos Ayres have a _penchant_ for gambling; especially -the milk-boys, who often go home _minus_ the day's receipts. - -Bathing in summer by all classes, particularly the ladies, is one of -the fashionable recreations of the place; and as regards the latter, a -stranger is not a little interested; for here are no Ramsgate, Margate, -or Brighton machines, to shield them from prying eyes. They use bathing -clothes, and the operations of undressing, dressing, &c. are managed -with great dexterity. - -They bathe in front of the town, attended by their female slaves. I have -often smiled to see them splashing about the water, with their hair -dishevelled, like a groupe of mermaids, wanting but the comb and glass -to make the picture perfect. At dark, the scene continues, and not being -exposed to the unhallowed eyes of man, they give a loose to joy and -merriment. Many lanterns are lighted, and the quantity of them convey -an idea of a Chinese festival. Bathing machines would be a great -accommodation, as it is necessary to walk nearly a quarter of a mile to -get out of depth; and, except in some parts, the bottom is stony and -disagreeable. It is altogether a wretched place for bathing. - -Some _soi-disant_ modest persons (foreigners) take occasion to censure -this fashion of the females bathing, denominating it indecent. The -assertion is hardly a fair one. It has long been the custom; and such is -the circumspection used, that a bathing machine could scarcely add to -the decorum of the scene. Some grotesque scenes sometimes occur, such -as the lower orders of women bathing and smoking the segar at the same -time. Umbrellas are at times used to shade off the sun. No respectable -person ventures near the place occupied by the bathing females. - - * * * * * - -DRESS.--In their attire, the gentlemen of Buenos Ayres follow the -English fashion, except that they have not had the folly to imitate us -in our French short-tailed coats, which were only worn by porters and -oyster-men when I was in England. From the summer's heat, jackets and -light trowsers are worn, with straw hats, particularly those singularly -shaped ones from Chili. It is not genteel to wear jackets at the -theatre, or at parties. From November to March, light clothing is very -agreeable, except now and then during some days of cold. - -In England, they would smile to see the dress of the boys in Buenos -Ayres; they have long coats, capotes, large hats, Wellington trowsers, -and boots; and this for children of eight and nine years of age, who -look like men of Lilliput. - -The dress of the Buenos Ayrean ladies, I think, includes all that is -charming in female attire. The street dress is enchanting, equal to that -of our ball-room. White is the prevailing colour. The waist is neither -so short as the French, nor so long as the English. Shawls of all -descriptions are worn; some of them serve both for veil and shawl, -covering the bosom, and hanging loosely over the back part of the head: -the face is never concealed. In fine weather, they throw the shawl -entirely from the head, and walk the streets in conscious beauty, -heedless of the admiring eyes that will, in spite of resolution, turn -to gaze at them, as fancied beings of another sphere. Many times I have -done this, and found it impossible to withdraw my eyes, till distance, -or the fear of being observed, has obliged me. Those provoking fair ones -wear the frock and petticoat of that shortness, as just to expose enough -of the leg and ancle to increase the temptation. The persons of some of -them are symmetry itself. - -So eager are the Buenos Ayrean ladies to display advantageously their -pretty feet and ancles, that they wear such tight shoes, as must cause -them infinite pain, which is evident from the limping manner in which -they are often observed to walk. - -The ball dress is similar to that worn in the theatre; there may be -more of ornament, but some young ladies whom I could name want "no more -diamonds than their eyes can give." - -Some ladies change their dress three and four times in a day. - -The greatest attention is paid to the hair, which is suffered to grow to -a considerable length, and is fastened by a comb behind, with ringlets -in the front. Caps or bonnets are never worn, even in extreme old age. -The elderly lady has her white locks as carefully combed as when in -youth; and the same peculiar style of managing the veil. They have not -recourse to powder, or other disguises, to hide the approach of age. In -company, they are exceedingly free and talkative, and very cheerful. -It is a sight not devoid of interest, to see them gliding along, in -their black attire, to church, at which they are the most constant -visitants--the faded forms of what was once, perhaps, so lovely. - -The sable dress worn by the ladies at church, and which I so much -admire, is the ancient Spanish costume, the _basquina_. - -The wearing of mourning does not continue so long as with us; -neither are young and handsome widows disfigured by those close and -melancholy-looking caps that we see in England. - -I am so charmed with the costume of the Spanish ladies, that I begin to -think my dislike of the cap and bonnet has something of prejudice in it. -If fortune should conduct me again to England, it will be some time ere -I shall fancy those articles of dress. In Buenos Ayres, the sight of -them are my perfect abhorrence: at home, they are more applicable to the -climate. - -Fans are the ladies constant companions--in the street, theatre, ball, -and chamber; and their style of using them is unique, and, I think, -graceful. They are expensive: I have heard of sixty to seventy dollars -being given for one. The French send a great many, with all the -embellishments so peculiar to that nation. - -The dress of the female children displays equal taste with that of -their elders; from which, indeed, there is little difference--the -short-sleeved frock, silk stockings, curled hair, and fan. They walk the -streets with immense importance--the miniatures of those of maturer age. - -The children of Buenos Ayres are handsome; many of the female part, -perfect seraphs, bidding fair to fill up the void that time will soon -occasion in those whose charms now so much delight us. I sometimes -look at these little creatures with a feeling almost bordering upon -melancholy, to think that, in a few years, they will replace those who -at this period shine forth in all the heaven of beauty, to be themselves -replaced, another and another race succeeding. Who can prize life, when -our dream of happiness is so short; the vale of coming years so soon -casting its blight upon all our ardent, youthful fancies? - -The females are really industrious, making their own clothes, and, I am -informed, the silk shoes they wear: a British lady is lost without the -milliner's aid. One of that profession might answer here, if it were -only for the novelty of the thing. - - * * * * * - -TRAVELLING.--Not many carriages or coaches are to be seen; but they -increase in number. The _calle coche_, or street coach, is much used; it -is drawn by two horses, or mules, with a postillion, and in shape very -much resembles our bakers' carts: the passengers are seated sideways. -Some English merchants and Creoles have carriages after the English -mode; but the nature of the roads and streets does not afford them a -great opportunity to "show off." Morris, an Englishman, carries on a -profitable trade as coach-maker: he is, indeed, the only good one in the -town. - -The travelling carriages, that convey families to their estates, -hundreds of miles distant, are heavy cumbersome machines, in the old -Spanish style. A family going to the country is no ordinary sight; -the mules and waggons following with the baggage, and the quantity of -out-riders, slaves, and servants, in _ponchos_ and little dirty hats, -surrounding the carriages containing the ladies and female slaves, -appear like a banditti escorting their plunder. - -A gentleman travelling has dirty white leather boots, large spurs, -poncho, slouching hat, pistols, sword, dagger, and knife; he appears a -complete robber captain--in fact, another Rugantino: he has generally -one or two slaves to attend him. - -There are post-houses on the road, and those leading to Chili are very -regular. A constant supply of horses and guides are kept; but persons -mostly go on horseback, for the sake of expedition. The journey is thus -made to the Andes in about fourteen days. Crossing the mountains, and -getting to Santiago, in Chili, will take about three weeks, from Buenos -Ayres; but the horse must always be kept at a full gallop. Carriages are -expensive, and very dilatory, but they save a great deal of fatigue. - -There are persons in Europe who suppose that horses may be obtained in -South America for the trouble of catching them: but that is not exactly -the case in this province; here they have all owners. - -Horses may be bought from 3 to 100 dollars, according to their quality; -a very good one may be had for seventeen dollars. They average about 12 -or 13 hands high, and have the tail mostly long. They will endure much -fatigue. Their pace is the gallop, or canter; trotting, the horse's -natural pace, appears quite unnatural here; but we must not include -those trained for the carriage or gig. There are some fine horses in -Buenos Ayres; and by those who have not seen the hunters, the dray, and -the heavy horse of Europe, they will be admired. To tell a native that -horses have been sold in England for 2, 3, 4, and 5000 guineas, would -hardly gain belief.[19] If these animals are cheap here, the keep of -them is dear--from 12 to 17 dollars per month. Hay is not much used: -grass may be purchased from the country, every morning, from the grass -carts that pass through the town. - - [19] Great curiosity was excited by the arrival in the brig Rhoda from - London, of three English draught horses and a mare, sent out by Mr. - Rivadavia, as a present to the government. The animals were landed in - good condition, notwithstanding their having endured a confinement of - thirteen weeks on board ship. Their great size and muscular appearance - excited universal admiration. What would the Buenos Ayreans say, could - they see our regiments of Life-Guards, and heavy cavalry, and the - cattle in the brewer's drays and coal waggons? An English groom - attended the horses to the stables, and numbers went to view them - there. - - I am afraid, that the sanguine hopes of improving the breed of - horses, in this country, by the introduction of English ones, will - not be realized; for, in spite of their boasted climate and pastures, - I am persuaded, neither will be found congenial to our horses, who, - being accustomed to the ever-verdant plains of England, can ill bear - the long drought and oppressive heat of this country. The people, - too, are prejudiced in favour of their own cattle; and were they to - pay attention to them, they would indeed be excellent; but their - treatment of horses may be compared to the manner in which Esquimaux - treat their dogs. Comfortable stabling and grooming are unknown here. - Horses are so cheap and plentiful, they are little valued. - - Some English blood horses, for Mr. W. P. Robertson, of this place, - unfortunately perished during the passage from England. Had they - arrived, the Buenos Ayreans might have witnessed the hunter and - draught horse of Great Britain. Our countrymen in Buenos Ayres seemed - highly delighted to see their country horses; and, as they passed the - beach, the sailors eyed the animals with rapture, commenting upon - their noble appearance. - - A quantity of English sheep, stated to be Merinos, likewise came out - in the Rhoda. - -They have no convenience like the livery stables of England. The -horses are put under a shed, or left in the open air; the mild climate -requiring no other care. Those employed in drudgery with carts, at the -custom-house, &c. are as hard worked as our post and hackney-coach -horses. - -English saddles are in vogue. The _ricado_, or saddle of the country, -keeps its sway, being so constructed that on journeys it serves for -saddle and bed. The Spanish bridle and bit are preferred both by the -English and the natives. The Spanish fashion of having the stirrups long -is invariably followed, and I think it more graceful than our mode. - -Silver stirrups, spurs, &c. are not so much in use as formerly. Horses, -bridles, and saddles were repeatedly stolen in the streets; but such -events, from the regularity of the police, do not often happen now. -Every horse has a burnt mark, by which its owner can be traced. - -The ladies ride on horseback; but they neither look so well in their -riding attire, or manage the horse so dexterously, as the British -ladies. - -The lower orders of countrymen ride with one toe in the stirrup, and -gallop for miles in that way. - -They strap the front of the horses' legs, to prevent their running away, -in the streets. Galloping is not permitted in the town. - -The country waggons are roofed with hides, and have large wheels: the -creaking of the latter is very disagreeable; but they will not take the -trouble to grease them. Whole families and parties, going long journeys, -live and sleep for weeks or months together in waggons drawn by oxen. -Six or eight of them are yoked, in pairs, to a log of wood at the back -of the horns, to which the rope harness is tied, and they are thus made -to draw the burthen from the head. They are urged on by poles with a -sharp substance at the end: the drivers have likewise a piece of lead, -in shape and size like our constables' staffs, with which they belabour -the poor animal about the horns. They sadly want a Mr. Martin here. From -being so constantly goaded, these animals have got a mischievous trick -of kicking; and, not being aware of them, I once received a favour of -this sort, which has since made me (to use the sailor's phrase) "give -them a wide birth." - - * * * * * - -SPORTS and AMUSEMENTS.--Near the Recolator is a decent even road, where, -on fine evening, are horse-races. The natives ride without saddle; and -the animals have great spirit. Englishmen sometimes get up a race, the -natives acting as jockeys. - -Exercise on the water is not a popular amusement. The inhabitants have -no taste for sailing-boats and rowing-matches: the river, it is true, -has no very great inducement for aquatic sports. - -A particular class of the people are very fond of cock-fighting, and -will give thirty to forty dollars for a good English game-cock. The -packet sailors have brought some out, and sold them well. The native -game-cocks are good, but not equal in strength and courage to the -English. - -Greyhounds and foxhounds would come to a bad market, for neither climate -nor country is adapted for hunting. My fox-hunting countrymen would -be out of their element here: foxes there are none; but deer are -plentiful. Athletic sports must be confined to countries more congenial -to them. - -The amateurs of shooting would be at home: birds abound so much as -almost to destroy the pleasure of the sport. A short distance from town, -there are lakes, with wild ducks, geese, swans, &c. In cold weather, and -in other periods, flocks fly over the town, and alight near the beach. -The black-necked swans are fine birds; and wild ducks, which are always -an excellent dish at table, are much better than the tame ones: the -market is well supplied with them. There are also excellent partridges, -of a larger size than our's; but there are no pheasants. English -sportsmen, habited in the mode of their country, with fustian jacket, -gun fastened to the horse, and the dogs behind, greatly enjoy this -recreation: they bring to my recollection our sporting farmers of -Gloucestershire and Norfolk, revived in South-America. The Frenchmen -in this country are fond of the sport: they go out, dressed in French -sporting costume, with cap and jacket, and on foot. I have observed -that this amusement is, in a great measure, confined to foreigners; the -natives take very little interest in it. The cockney sportmen of Buenos -Ayres sometimes amuse themselves by shooting gulls on the beach. - -The country affords little facility to follow fishing as a sport; -and the fish found in the river, with a few exceptions, is not worth -catching. They fish on horseback. Two horses are attached, one to each -end of the net,--a man standing on their backs, in the manner of one -of Astley's equestrians; and they go so deeply in the water, that the -horses are, at times, obliged to swim. I have expected to see the men -thrown off. The net is then hauled to the shore; the fish that is fit -for the market is taken out, and the rest thrown or given away. People -don't go out fishing at a distance, in boats. The sailors on board the -vessels in the roads catch great quantities of fish, but they are of a -very indifferent kind: one called the cat-fish is the most common. - -Throwing the _lasso_ is a favourite amusement of this country, and -is performed by the natives with great dexterity. A man on horseback, -holding the _lasso_ (a rope looped at the end) rides amongst a herd of -cattle, casting the rope towards the object he wishes to entrap; the -first attempt almost always succeeds, and the animal is fast secured by -the leg. They practice this _lasso_ from boyhood: it is a formidable -weapon, against a flying enemy. - -An annual fair is held on some open ground, before the Recolator church, -about two miles from the fort, and one mile north of the town. It -commences on the 12th of October (the nativity of Nostra Senora del -Pilar), and continues a week. The amusements are not very great: -there are a few booths for eating and drinking, swings, two or three -humourless clowns running about, and a military band. The national -British and American flags are hoisted from houses and booths devoted to -good cheer, rented for the occasion by individuals of those nations. At -night, the country people dance till a late hour in the booths; they may -be observed to perfection then. I wandered into several; and the Gaucho -ladies and gentlemen behaved with the greatest politeness, offering me -a seat, and entreating me to dance. The guitar was the music, with the -usual accompaniments of singing, and snapping the fingers during the -dance. On fine evenings a very elegant assemblage attend this fair, -which is a promenade for the beauties of the city; but being held -so near the equinox, the weather is generally unsettled. In 1822, a -tremendous storm took place, one night of the fair, overwhelming booths, -flags, and preparations; hundreds took refuge in the church. At the -theatre (in which I happened to be during the storm), the dust filled -the interior, obscuring the stage. The small stones and dust, rattling -against the walls and windows, had the effect of what one might suppose -of a shower of small shot. - -The fair at the Recolator, in 1824, as regarded amusements, was very -dull. The promenade, however, was well attended: the _elegantes_, and -others of Buenos Ayres, appeared in their best attire; and the dashing -mulatto girls, in silk stockings, white dresses, and veils, seemed -determined to rival the fair ones of higher birth. As usual, the -equinoctial gales vented their spite at this devoted fair.[20] - - [20] On the second day of the fair, it blew a gale of wind, in which a - boat, belonging to H.M. brig of war, _Plover_, was upset, between the - inner and outer roads, and five men were drowned. A subscription was - opened for their families, in England, and 500 dollars were collected. - Mr. Poussett, the vice-consul, generously exerted himself to forward - this charitable act. - -During Carnival they have a disgusting practice: in place of music, -masques, and dancing, they amuse themselves by throwing buckets and pans -of water from the tops of houses and windows, sousing every passenger -that passes, and following each other, from house to house, in regular -water attacks. Egg-shells filled with water are also thrown: these are -sold in the streets. The audience, on leaving the theatre the night -before Carnival, get a plentiful salute of them. It lasts three days; -and many persons go out of town to avoid it, as it is hardly possible to -walk the streets without a ducking. The ladies receive no mercy; neither -do they deserve any, for they take a most active part. Repeatedly, on -passing groups of them, at night, an egg of water has been adroitly put -into my bosom. Those whose occupations lead them into the street, must -expect a wetting. Strangers seem to join in the sports with great glee. -An English master of a vessel, just arrived, received a bucket of water. -Not being aware of the practice, he took up bricks, swearing he would -break every window in the house. He could scarcely be pacified. Many -persons have been seriously ill from the effects of Carnival playing. -The newspapers and police have interfered to suppress it, hitherto, -without effect, though it is somewhat lessened. They follow it as an -ancient custom of the country; and, like other absurdities, it will, I -suppose, die a natural death. If the ladies knew how much it detracts -from feminine softness, surely it would be discontinued by them. - -In 1825, government seized the opportunity of the victory in Peru, to -devote the three days of Carnival to public rejoicings. Handbills were -accordingly issued, requesting fathers and masters of families to assist -them, and prevent water-throwing, denominating it "disgraceful to a -civilized people." The appeal had, in some degree, the desired effect: -at night, however, the water-playing folks could not resist indulging in -their favourite amusement--sprinkling the pedestrians with water from -phials; especially in the Plaza, where, some mischief-loving girls -managed to accommodate me with some of their favours in this way. In -time, the good sense of the people will banish this, as they have many -other of their antique and absurd customs; for instance, the musical -exhibitions during Lent--a triumph gained by reason over bigotry and -priestcraft. - - * * * * * - -PROVISIONS.--The new market, in the centre of the town, is convenient, -and well supplied: soldiers are stationed in the outlets, to keep order. -Beef is sold at three reals the _arroba_, or 25 lb.; mutton, for the -whole sheep, six reals. Veal is not allowed to be killed; and pork is -very bad indeed, and seldom used at table. Turkeys cost from 5 to 7 -reals; ducks and fowls, 31/2 reals each; partridges and pigeons, 11/2 real -the pair: geese are moderate--3 reals each. Vegetables are very dear: -cabbages, one real; carrots, green peas, cauliflowers, spinage, &c. in -the same proportion. - -Although the chief articles of life are, at first cost, so cheap, the -expense of fire in cooking makes them come almost, if not quite, as dear -as in England. Coals are imported from England, and are dear. - -The beef is good, but much inferior to our's; and their fashion of -always baking it gives it a taste of the charcoal and wood, and renders -it insipid. They have no idea of roasting by the spit. Mr. Booth, an -Englishman, who keeps a store, is noted for having dinners in the -English style. - -In summer, meat will not keep beyond the day, and cattle are slaughtered -in the morning for the day's consumption; in winter, the night previous. -In England, meat kept two or three days is supposed to eat more tender; -here, it is the reverse--as report tells me, for I have never been -housekeeper enough to know from experience. - -Mutton is indifferent: from some farms, they tell me, good mutton can be -procured, but it has not been my lot to partake of any of this superior -sort. The natives have not much relish for mutton: sheep were, at one -time, of so little value, that, in the country, they were killed, and -used as fuel for brick-kilns. This has improved, and will continue -to do so, from the number of well-stocked sheep farms, that now send -large droves far into the interior for sale. Mr. Halsey, an American -gentleman, has a large concern of this nature. - -The poultry bought in the market are not of the best description; they -are in general, diminutive and tough. To have good poultry, it is -necessary for persons to fatten them themselves, or purchase them at -farms that can be depended upon. Ducks are better; the turkeys are -large, and, when properly reared, eat tender; the geese are indifferent. -Partridges are large and tender, and very excellent. The ordinary -poultry, in a manner, live upon beef, for which they seem to have a -peculiar _penchant_. I have seen beef and corn placed before turkeys, -and they preferred the former. In a place where so many animals exist -upon beef, the pig, it may be believed, comes in for his full share. -Indeed, all animals, in this country, appear to live upon beef. The -quantity that is wasted would be most acceptable to the poor in populous -Europe. - -This country is as famous for the quantity of beef produced, as the Cape -of Good Hope is for sheep. A bullock now costs eight dollars, without -the hide; formerly, they could be purchased at ten reals. The hide now -sells for six dollars. Some of the _estancias_ have from forty to fifty -thousand head of cattle of all classes. - -An order exists, that beef is not to be sold at more than three reals -the arroba, at market. The year of 1823 was one of great drought, and -the cattle perished by thousands: the beef market was in so terrible a -condition, that scarcely any were to be had, and what there was was very -bad; for cattle could not be brought to market, but at a very great loss -to the owners. The impolicy of a fixed price in an open market, except -when monopoly is apprehended, was fully proved. When any beef came to -market, there was perfect fighting for it with the slaves and servants -of families and others. The poor endured privations with patience: John -Bull would have been more riotous. - -Besides the principal market, there are others in different parts of the -town; and beef is sold in carts, that take their stations in yards and -outbuildings, holding a butcher's shop, the ground serving for block. -The first sight of this operation, so different to the cleanliness and -style of English butcher's shops, is sufficient to disgust a stranger. - -Salt, or corned beef, is only to be had good in winter, and then it is -nothing like that we get in England. It is only at English or American -tables this dish is to be seen: the natives pretend not to understand -it; I have seen them, notwithstanding, partake of a buttock of beef with -great relish. - -A beef-steak is so entirely an English dish, that it preserves in all -climates its original name: they may be had in the coffee-houses here, -but, like the French "_bif-tik_," are no great things. - -The Gauchos in the country exist upon beef: bread is a rarity with them. -Having no ovens, they are obliged to roast the beef upon sticks placed -lengthwise. I wish they were under the same necessity in Buenos Ayres; I -should eat it with much better appetite. The true roast beef is only to -be obtained amongst those Gauchos.[21] - - [21] These Gauchos are a peculiar race: some wear their hair long, - and plaited, Chinese fashion; and, in addition to their other - singularities of dress, they wear handkerchiefs tied under the chin, - and hanging loose behind. A group of them in a field, seated round a - fire, is all we can fancy of Macbeth's witches. - -_Carne conquiero_ (beef baked with part of the hide attached), and -_mater ambre_, or kill hunger (baked beef, with sauce _piquant_), is -relished by many here; but I am not one of the number. - -The sausages I should like, were it not for the abhorrent garlic in -them. - -The dainties of English hams, cheese, potatoes, &c. are bought at the -stores; the two former, at four reals the pound; the latter, one real: -the duties are rather high upon them. Bottled beer may be purchased at -four reals per bottle; and draught beer may sometimes be had. Articles -of the above description are almost wholly imported from England. The -length of the voyage will not permit our rich English cheeses to be -brought here; consequently, we are deprived of the luxury of a real -"Welch rabbit." The Penco cheese, brought from the district of that -name, in Chili, approaches nearest to our toasting cheese. - -Bread is dear: two small loaves (a trifle larger than our French rolls), -one madio. They decrease the size according to the price of flour. That -made of American flour is the best. They are, at present, entirely -dependent upon foreign importation; and the Americans have taken away -immense sums of money. The corn of the country, from some unaccountable -cause--a want of attention, or deficient harvests--is nothing equal to -the demand. They generally grind the corn at the bakehouses, which, by a -late order, are removed out of town. Mules are employed in the grinding. - -Tea is not much drank by the natives, though more so than formerly. In -English families, it is, as at home, an article of the first necessity; -it sells here from 1 to 11/2 dollar per lb. Coffee is 31/2 reals per lb. -Lump sugar, dear and scarce; that of Havannah and Brazils is used. -Chocolate, from 21/2 to 3 reals per lb. - -Altogether, living in Buenos Ayres is much more expensive than in -England, without its various comforts. - -Here are wines of all sorts, "from humble Port to imperial Tokay," and -but little good. Port and Madeira are retailed at one dollar per bottle; -champaigne, a dollar and a half. Of French and Spanish wines, there -are great quantities. The cheapest and common drink is the wine of -Catalonia, or, as it is denominated, Carlon wine, which is sold at from -two to three reals per bottle, and is far from an unpleasant beverage. -Not much wine is made in the country; that of Mendoza has a sweet taste, -like our homemade wines. - -Beer is only used as a _bonne bouche_. Bottled beer has not that relish -to me, that the London draught porter has. Brandy, gin, and rum, are -abundant. The latter arrives from the Brazils, Havannah, and Isle of -France. The good old Jamaica rum is a scarce commodity. Cana, a sort of -white brandy, from the Havannah, Brazils, and Spain, and called Spanish -brandy, is much drank, and makes capital punch. - -The vegetables of this country, to my thinking, are not very enticing. -We miss the delicious flavour of the summer cabbage, large asparagus, -and peas, that we have at home. A good salad, with cucumbers and onions, -may be procured. Turnips are scarce and bad. Indian corn grows in -abundance. - -English potatoes are much sought after: the packet sailors have brought -a great many;[22] and so eager were the English potatoe merchants to -obtain them, that they quarrelled one with the other, and their disputes -were referred to the Consulado, who must have imbibed strange opinions -of the trading English. All efforts to raise potatoes on this soil have -failed: they are small and insipid. An Englishman, Mr. Billinghurst, has -been endeavouring, some years, to effect this object without success. -Those grown at Monte Video are something better. In Peru, they are -thought equal, if not superior, to our's: but our islands appear to be -their home. - - [22] The packet sailors are allowed a portion of trade; and the most - profitable of their imports have been potatoes and game-cocks. These - packet sailors are complete pedlars. - -The peaches in their season, from January to March, are excellent, and -the consumption great, being esteemed healthy: they are sold in all -parts--in the markets, shops, and hawked about the streets. From eight -to ten can be purchased for a _madio_ (three-pence English money). The -strawberries, apples, pears, cherries, &c. are, for their quality, not -worthy of notice. Grapes are tolerable. Oranges will not thrive in this -climate; and the lemons are very inferior. Gooseberries, currants, and -plums are unknown, except by name. After all the praises bestowed upon -the fruits grown in tropical and warm climates, they cannot, in the -gross, equal those of others. What have they to compensate for the -green-gage, gooseberries, currants, strawberries, cherries, apples, -pears, and plums of every description? Travellers must not believe all -they hear in Europe; they will not find the fields and boughs, in South -America, teeming with every species of fruit, free to those who choose -to gather them. - - * * * * * - -In addition to those already noticed, this country produces very few -OTHER ANIMAL OR VEGETABLE PRODUCTIONS. Indeed, persons who wish to send -presents to England are often at a loss what to forward, the country not -producing any great variety, either in the animal or vegetable world. - -The herds of cattle that exist in the Pampas are immense: of this we -can form a tolerably correct estimate from annual exports. In one year a -million of ox and cow hides were exported. - -Mules are numerous and cheap; they cost from two to four dollars each. -There is a traffic in them, but not very great, to the Isle of France -and West Indies. The expense of provender and fitting for such a -freight, and the numbers that die during a voyage, lessen the profits -considerably; and vessels will not venture upon each troublesome -shipmates when any thing else offers. - -A great many tigers are found up the country, and about the islands of -the river Parana; but they have nothing of the ferocity or terrific -grandeur of the East-Indian tygers: they are, in fact, more like -leopards; and those that I have seen are not larger than a common sheep -dog. They will, however, often attack individuals; and several have been -devoured by them. - -The tiger-cats are plentiful. - -Buenos Ayres swarms with dogs, and none of them very valuable. An -English bull-dog would beat fifty such. They had an abominable practice -of sending criminals, under a guard, into the streets, armed with heavy -clubs, for the purpose of killing the dogs they met with, leaving the -carcases in the street to rot. Many a pet has been slaughtered this way. -Some more humane method might be devised, to lessen the number of dogs, -than this cruel and disgusting mode: it has been lately discontinued. -Hydrophobia, I conceive, they only know by name, as I have never heard -of any accident from it. - -Of the small field animals the nutria, for the sake of its skin, it the -most valuable, and forms a valuable article of export. They are, in -shape, much like rats; but are larger, and have long front teeth -projecting: they are quite harmless. - -The _armadillo_ is the South-American hedge-hog, without the prickly -substances they have in Europe: the natives eat them. - -Here are, also, the _boscatcha_, or South-American badger; and a pretty -little animal, like a weasel, which is often tamed, and runs about the -house. - -Rats and ants are a great annoyance in this country: they swarm in the -houses, and are very active in their vocations. The former are not so -ferocious as the English ones, who often, when retreat is cut off, fight -most ratfully. The Buenos Ayres rats are better educated. - -The fire-fly, on summer nights, is seen gliding through the air. - -This not being a woody country, the feathered creation presents very -little variety. Here are the canary, cardinal, common sparrow, owls, &c. - -About Paraguay, and where it is more intersected, there are some -beautiful birds, including the parrot and parroquet; the latter are -likewise plentiful on the other side of the river, in Entre Rios, -&c.[23] - - [23] The parrots brought from the Brazils, Paraguay, &c. to Buenos - Ayres, differ in nothing from those we every day see in England; and - they chatter as loudly, generally in the following strain--"_Lorito - Real_," (Royal Poll); "_Pare la Espana y no para la Portugal!_" (Spain - for ever and no Portugal); "_Est casada?_" (Are you married?) "_Aye, - Jesus!_" (O, Jesus!) - -Ostriches are very numerous in the Pampas. - -The beautiful and scarce little humming-bird, now and then, makes its -appearance among the lowers. I have made several efforts to catch them, -but without success. - -This portion of South America, in the summer of 1824-25, was most -seriously annoyed by locusts; the memory of the oldest inhabitant cannot -recollect such a swarm. The air was darkened, and the ground strewed, -with the millions of those devouring insects: a north wind brought them -down from the Parana, like a snow-storm. The fruit trees, plants, &c. -dreadfully suffered. The inhabitants have an idea, that, by ringing -bells, beating tin saucepans, and other noises of this description, -locusts can be frightened away. An easterly wind, rain, and cold -weather, are, I believe, their only destroyers. The months of December, -1824 and January, 1825, were foggy, dry months, the wind constantly -from the north; and, for want of water, a great mortality took place in -the country among the cattle. - -Mushrooms and water-cresses are not very plentiful: they are more found -in the neighbourhood of Ensenada; as are also leeches, for which doctors -give a good price. - -The flowers reared in this country must likewise yield, in beauty and -sweetness, to our own: we do not see the polyanthus, moss rose, and many -others that strew their beauties over the British isles. - - * * * * * - -POPULATION.--The province of Buenos Ayres, which extends nearly 500 -miles in length, with a breadth undefined (perhaps equal to its length), -has only a population of about 150,000 souls; and Patagonia, which is -under the same government, 1000. - -It is estimated, that in the population of Buenos Ayres, there are five -females to one male. If this be correct, some ladies are likely to come -under the horrid list of old maids. That more female births take place -in comparison with those of Europe cannot be doubted. I know families of -eight, nine, and ten daughters, and perhaps one son. The causes of such -disproportion, I must leave the natural philosophers to develope. - - * * * * * - -TRADE and MANUFACTURES.--From its extensive produce, Buenos Ayres will -ever command attention in a mercantile point of view. - -The exports consist of ox hides of all descriptions, horse hides, horse -hair, wool, tallow, nutria skins, horns, chinchilla skins, salted beef, -and silver in hard dollars and bars. - -The quantity of European goods annually imported is very great: I -am surprised how they find vent for them. The cargoes brought from -Liverpool, of manufactured goods, of Manchester, Glasgow, &c. are of -considerable value, often from 70 to 80, and L100,000. - -The following is a list of square-rigged merchant vessels that entered -the port of Buenos Ayres in the years 1821, 1822, 1823, and 1824:-- - - In 1821. In 1822. In 1823. In 1824. - - British[24] 128 183 113 110 - American 42 75 80 143[25] - French 19 21 24 21 - Swedish 7 11 6 14 - Sardinian 3 7 6 6 - Danish 1 1 5 10 - Dutch 2 4 6 8 - - [24] Of the British vessels, the following were from London and - Liverpool; the remainder from Gibraltar, Rio Janeiro, the Havannah, - &c. &c. - - In 1821. In 1822. In 1823. In 1824. - - From Liverpool 33 35 23 - From London 10 7 8 - - [25] The number of American vessels in 1824, compared with former - years, is very great. They were chiefly laden with flour, which, - although now a losing speculation, has, lately, been beneficial. - -Under the Portuguese, Brazilian, and Buenos Ayrean flags, brigs and -small craft are daily arriving and sailing from and to Rio Janeiro, and -all parts of the Brazils, Patagonia, and trading in the River Plate, and -up the rivers of the interior. - -A number of American vessels are sold, as well as broken up, in Buenos -Ayres, which, assuming the flag of the country, trade with Rio Janeiro, -Rio Grande, Patagonia, &c. Many of them are under the command of -Englishmen and North Americans, who, at no great distance of time will -carry the Buenos Ayrean flag to every part of the world. This country -must for some time rely upon foreigners for their shipping. The -population are not maritimely inclined. - -Several persons gain a livelihood by leaving notices, or _avisos_, of -vessels arriving, and their cargoes. - -A long report upon the trade of this country has been drawn up by a -committee of British merchants, and presented to the Consul, extracts -from which have appeared in the English newspapers. Great talent has -been exhibited in the detail and writing of this report, although I -think the picture has been too highly painted. - -Should the trade of Paraguay be thrown open to Buenos Ayres, it will be -of great advantage. The present Governor, Francia, follows the Jesuits' -system; and Pekin is not more secluded from the inspection of strangers. -Some unfortunate Englishmen, who ventured there with goods, had both -their persons and property detained, and no satisfactory intelligence -has been received of them. In February, 1823, a memorial was sent -to Sir Thomas Hardy, by their friends in Buenos Ayres, entreating -his interference. This memorial has been forwarded to the British -government. It is surprising that the people of Paraguay, a country -so rich in its natural productions should be quiet under such severe -restrictions. One is led to suppose, from their passiveness, that they -are content with the system. Francia, however, has lately permitted -communication and trade with the Portuguese in Brazil; Itapua, on the -frontiers, being the depot town. - -They have no regular exchange for the merchants to meet in, at Buenos -Ayres. A new general Commercial Room is about to be established, to -which persons of all nations will be allowed to subscribe. Some late -regulations of the British Room have given offence; the committee of -which, in derision, have been named "the Holy Alliance," and have had -several anonymous letters addressed to them, upon their aristocratical -notions in a foreign country. The refusal to allow any but British -subjects to subscribe to the Commercial Room, has been much commented -upon; some years back it might have been advisable, but at this period -a more liberal system would perhaps be better. - -The Creoles of the country now engage in mercantile pursuits with great -avidity; and commerce has spread into so many hands, that money does not -roll in quite so fast as formerly. - -The competition amongst the store-keepers materially diminishes their -profits, and reduces the concern upon a level with English chandlers' -shops. - -The number of shops in Buenos Ayres is very great; they abound in the -streets leading from the Plaza. Every shop and house has a proportion of -taxes levied upon it: and there is also a species of property tax upon -the English plan. The taxes now imposed considerably diminish the -profits they used to make. - -The linen-drapers have a choice assortment from all countries, neatly -arranged. Their shops are well lighted; and although they fall very -short of the splendour of the London ones, yet they are equal to some -of those of our best country towns: they are open till nine and ten at -night. They call the Buenos Ayreans a lazy people: the shopkeepers, at -least, do not merit this epithet. - -The shopmen are mostly young men, who appear to have all the persuasive -arts of their brethren in London, prevailing upon their fair customers -to get rid of their money, and subjecting them to a good scolding from -husbands and mammas, for extravagance, leading to pouting and sulks for -a week. Those gentlemen of the shop have a great deal to answer for. - -Every article of apparel, both for male and female, can be purchased at -the retail shops, of which there are many: they have coats, waistcoats, -trowsers, &c. hanging in front, in the mode of Monmouth Street. Mr. -Niblett was the first Englishman that opened a shop of this description. -A great many Englishmen have their clothes sent from England: but the -duty and incidental expences make them come as dear as if made here. - -Buenos Ayres contains several English tailors, whose work is tolerably -well, considering they have not English workmen; although not with that -exquisite finish which is to be seen in London. A coat will cost thirty -dollars, trowsers twelve; the rest in proportion. The town swarms with -Creolian and other tailors. - -Manufactories for hats exist in Buenos Ayres: one of them, Varangot's, -has a considerable trade, and they are really good, from seven to eight -dollars each, far superior to our second-rate hats; the misfortune is, -that on the approach of rainy weather they act as a perfect barometer, -and get limp. - -Of the hats imported into Buenos Ayres the English are preferred; but -the heavy duty has brought out those of an inferior description. At -present, there are some good ones at ten or twelve dollars each, which -at that price meet with a ready sale. The French import a quantity of -hats; but the quality of them is much inferior to our's. - -English manufactured goods are cheap; the market has been overstocked, -and, I fear, does not yield much profit to the adventurers. I have -bought English stockings cheaper than I could buy them in London, -leather gloves (a good pair) for a dollar. It is cheaper to purchase a -stock of linen here than at home. I have purchased good white cotton -neckcloths, after the rate of sixpence each. In summer, cotton shirting -is preferred. - -English saddles and bridles are imported largely; we thus return them -their own hides, manufactured into choice and costly goods. Of the many -saddlers' shops, several are kept by Englishmen; as also watch-makers, -with loads of English watches. - -All sorts of hardware, as knives and forks, and scissars, are imported -from England, and can be obtained at a cheap rate; also furniture, such -as tables, chairs, &c. Of the latter, the North Americans bring great -quantities. - -India goods are sought after, particularly the China crape shawls. - -Articles of stationery arrive from every quarter: Spanish writing-paper -from Gibraltar and the Mediterranean, and I think it of better quality -than ours, at least more pleasant to write upon. - -Barbers' shops are in great abundance. - -At the _pulperias_, or grog-shops, they sell almost every article of -life; they are, indeed, perfect chandlers' shops. - -The pastrycooks neither cut a figure in their shops, nor in the articles -they sell; here are no hot buns or tarts on a morning, nor stale pastry -for the ragamuffin boys to purchase. Sweetmeats are the order of the -day. - -A pastrycook's shop in the English style, I am confident, would -succeed--with the addition of hot rolls in the morning: none of those -luxuries are known here. - -A good portrait-painter, I conceive, would meet with encouragement in -Buenos Ayres: at any rate they would have a fine field for study. An -English artist, named Herve, practised some months: indisposition forced -him to leave. - -It had occurred to me, that a pawnbroker would be a good business in -Buenos Ayres; but I find every shopkeeper, or monied person acts in that -capacity, and that respectable persons do not hesitate to send silver -spoons, matte-pots, and other valuables, to pledge from day to day--at -what interest (or if any) I know not, though I am apprehensive some of -them are guilty of what we should call usury. Poverty is a crime in -England; here they dread not exposure: but such is my delicacy in money -affairs, I should prefer being under an obligation to the gentlemen -with three balls, and to slide in at one of their secret doors, to the -publicity practised here. - -An Englishman has lately undertaken a speculation which has cost him -a considerable sum, to have the exclusive privilege of taking cattle -in the Falkland islands--in fact, to be sole proprietor for a term -of years. He has forwarded to his new sovereignty a small colony of -settlers, servants, &c.; the chances of his success are very doubtful. -Buenos Ayres claims the jurisdiction of these islands, and those claims -will not cause such a dispute as in the year 1770. The voyage to them -from Buenos Ayres is made in about fourteen days. - - * * * * * - -CURRENCY, &c.--In the year 1822 silver became so scarce, that, it was -impossible to get change of a doubloon without allowing a consideration -for it. Foreigners, of course, bore the blame of draining the country -of the money. To remedy the evil, small notes were issued; and, shortly -after, a large supply of copper coin arrived, that had been contracted -for in England. This currency of paper and copper was something so new, -that not a few sneers and forebodings took place. The facility that -paper money affords to business, however, soon began to be experienced -in Buenos Ayres. Previous to its issue, if a person had to receive a -hundred dollars, it was necessary to hire a porter to carry it, and -for larger quantities a cart; besides the endless trouble of counting -thousands of dollars, often in reals and madios, and the detection of -bad money: hours and days of valuable time were consumed by it. The -collecting clerks are no longer tormented with counting piles of silver, -before they take it from the house. Saturdays are the days appropriated -for money collecting. - -Notes, engraved in England, are now issued on a grand scale, from 5 to -1000 dollars, upon the security of the government and bank; the people -are reconciled to it, and begin to find that a currency of gold and -silver is not at all times a proof of the credit or riches of a -nation.[26] - - [26] Englishmen, on their first visit to France, soon after the peace - of 1814, were eager to receive French gold; but they soon tired of it, - and asked for paper. I was at Peregaux and Lafitte's banking-house at - Paris, when an application of that nature was made: the clerk replied, - that France must first get credit, before she could venture upon - bank-notes. - -Besides the above notes, the present currency consists of the doubloon -of 17 dollars; the half, quarter, and half-quarter doubloon; the dollar, -half dollar, and quarter dollar; with reals, madios, and quartillos. The -hard dollars are scarce, being bought up for exportation. - -In exporting money, there is a small duty of two per cent. to pay. Being -so trifling, it prevents smuggling, which was formerly the case. Making -returns in produce, however, is at all times preferred to money, when it -can be obtained at any thing like a moderate rate; but it is at times so -scarce and dear, that it renders the purchasing ruinous. - -The average exchange for the last three years has been forty-five pence -the Spanish dollar. - -The Bank of Buenos Ayres opened in 1822, the first thing of the sort in -this province. Its capital is one million of dollars, in 1000 shares, of -1000 dollars each. The number of directors are ten, _viz._ six Creolian -gentlemen, and four British. It has hitherto proved a profitable -concern. The Bank shares rose from par to 170, but quickly declined to -90 and 100 per cent. premium, at which price they seem stationary. The -last dividend paid on Bank stock was after the rate of 30 per cent. - -The reported establishment of a National Bank, has created some alarm, -amongst the present Bank proprietors; numerous controversies have taken -place in the newspapers, upon the occasion. The affair, however, seems -at rest for the present. - -The government funds of Buenos Ayres have lately had a considerable -rise, from 28 to 100. The bulls carry all before them; and the bears -have had to pay pretty handsomely. Who knows but a Stock Exchange may be -established here some years hence? - -Considerable sums of money have been made by the advance in the public -funds in Buenos Ayres; and, from the eagerness of all classes to -speculate in them, it is probable that lame ducks will not be confined -to Capel Court. Every shopkeeper now dabbles in the funds; and, in a -market so confined, the mischief may be very serious. - - * * * * * - -EDUCATION, and LITERATURE.--The government expresses the most laudable -anxiety to forward education, by patronizing schools upon the -Lancasterian system; and the numerous seminaries in this city are a -credit to the people. - -The College School consists of 125 youths, from the age of 15 to 16 or -17 years of age. In their walks, they wear black clothes, with a light -blue ribbon over their coat. Their behaviour is better than that of the -boys at our public schools: a person may mix amongst them, without being -subject to those insolent remarks so common at home, and which makes a -stranger dread to enter their precincts. - -At the Buenos Ayres College, pupils are taught every branch of -the classics. They have not the advantage of professors, as at -Oxford, Cambridge, Eton, Westminster, and the rest of our public -schools--professors, whose talents not only confer honour upon their -country, but on the human species generally. Some students have elicited -considerable talents. A younger branch of the Belgrano family, Manuel, -wrote a play founded on _The Virgin of the Sun_, which was performed -with success; he has likewise acquired a knowledge of the English -language, and is at present employed in the British Consul's office. - -In the Merced Church, an academy is held for the instruction of 30 -youths in the study of divinity. - -Among the numerous seminaries here, is one kept by an English lady, Mrs. -Hyne, which receives great encouragement; she has had 70 scholars at a -time, who are taught, with other requisites, the English language. From -the anxiety expressed by parents, that their children should attain this -language, the next generation will become completely anglicised. In -placing them under the care of a Protestant lady, they are not so -narrow-minded as to fear that their religion will be tampered with. -One of the stripling scholars conversed with me the other day in good -English, which he had learned in a very short period. - -A number of Buenos Ayrean gentlemen speak and write the English language -with much fluency and correctness. Don Manuel Sarratea, late a governor -of the province, and who resided some time in London as their minister, -is a proficient, and a man of talent. To the British he is very -attentive, and is much respected by them. Don Miguel Riglos is another -instance: this gentleman has made the tour of Great Britain, and speaks -English with so little of foreign accent, that, on my introduction -to him, I supposed him to be an Englishman: his manners are very -prepossessing and amiable. Some self-taught young men have also an -excellent idea of it, and others express a great desire to learn it. It -has now become a branch of education in their public schools; and, from -the continued intercourse they are likely to have with the British and -North Americans, and others who speak the English tongue, the utility -of learning it will become every day more apparent, and, as regards -business, it will be of greater importance than the French. - -The prejudices of ages is fast wearing away: the South-Americans, -and, Spain herself, no longer view us as renegades, heretics, -"God-abandoned." Twenty years back, England and Englishmen were as -little known or understood by the Buenos Ayreans, as is the interior of -the Chinese empire now to the rest of the world. For centuries past, -care was taken to inflame the passions of the Spaniards against us and -our country; and it is not strange that a remnant of this animosity yet -remains. Their best poets have stigmatised us: I recollect hearing, in -Buenos Ayres, that part of Lope de Vegas' popular ballad-- - - "My brother Don John to England's gone, - To kill the Drake, the Queen to take, - And the heretics all to destroy; - And he shall bring you a Protestant maid - To be your slave, &c." - -It is gratifying to observe, that those Creolians who have been in -England evince the greatest attachment to us. - -In the college of Stonyhurst, near Liverpool, are several Buenos -Ayrean youths, who have been sent thither to be educated. The -British government deserves praise for the countenance given to this -establishment; silencing at once the complaints of our own Catholics, in -not having a proper place to educate their sons, and bringing the youth -of foreign nations in contact with our's, from whence it is natural -to expect they will feel an attachment to a country where they have -received almost their first impressions. So far from its infecting our -population with Catholicism,[27] the reverse would seem more probable. -It will give strangers an opportunity of judging, from actual -observation, of the institutions of our country, and the advantages -arising from a liberal system of government. - - [27] A book entitled _A History of the Jesuits_, but which is - chiefly filled with attacks upon the Roman Catholic faith, holds out - Stonyhurst College as pregnant with danger, asserting that it has - already increased the number of Catholics in its immediate vicinity. - Lancashire has always been a catholic county, and it is to be expected - that people will crowd to a neighbourhood that contains edifices - devoted to their manner of worship. I cannot believe that any - considerable number of Proselytes has been made: we are too sensible - of the happiness enjoyed under our own, to be caught with the glare of - another church. - -The education bestowed upon females is far from being solid: reading, -writing, music, and dancing, are all that is thought necessary. In the -two last they are enthusiasts, and some of the proficients; the study -of languages, or deep reading, is not thought of consequence. Spanish -husbands, they say, have an antipathy to blue-stocking wives: from the -natural talent of the females, they would soon be adepts in more -abstruse studies. - -If the Buenos Ayrean ladies do not possess the higher branches of -learning, they have an indescribable sweetness of manners, free from -affectation, at once giving confidence to the timid stranger, and -delightful to all who have the happiness to know them. They seldom -address a person but with a smile, listen attentively to conversation, -without that listless indifference, and answering with the monosyllables -of _yes_ and _no_, that I have witnessed in some societies. - -The time may arrive, when South America may have to boast her Madame de -Staels and a host of female literati; and another Corinna may conduct -her lover over Southern scenery, the snow-topt Andes, and Imperial -Cusco, with as much soft enthusiasm as belongs to her Italian rival. At -present, however, their natural talent is thrown into the shade, for -want of cultivation. - -The letter-writing between female friends is very energetic: I caught -a glimpse of one, which ran thus--"Farewell, my idolized and beloved -friend! receive the heart of your devoted, constant, faithful, &c." -Notwithstanding this fervour, we never hear of those fatal love -attachments that end so tragically with us: is it that, south of the -line, the female heart is so tenderly moulded, they will not bid the -despairing lover die? or, are they convinced, "that men have died, and -worms have eaten them, but not for love," and therefore doubt the truth -of man's protestations? Alas! I fear that, in this love-inspiring city -of Buenos Ayres, it is possible to find Violas and Rosalinds, but not -many Juliets, and of the other sex still fewer Werters. - -The Spanish language is certainly delightful; its very sounds bring to -recollection the Don Guzmans and Don Antonios of chivalric days. I wish -they would make it the fashionable study in England, as in good queen -Elizabeth's reign, instead of the trifling French. From the great -changes in the Spanish world, and our South-American connections, it -must ever be an object of importance. - -A work published in London, by Mr. Ackerman, in the Spanish language, -with plates, called _Variedades et Mensagero de Londres_, has numerous -purchasers here. It is published quarterly, and reflects great credit -on its author. This publication will afford to the South Americans an -excellent idea of Great Britain and Europe generally;[28] it contains -selections from our best authors. - - [28] Many of the Buenos Ayreans, of the second and third grade, have - most confused notions of London. They think that all England is in - London; and in speaking of the arrival of a vessel from Liverpool, - Falmouth, or any other port, they add Liverpool in London, Falmouth in - London; and when speaking of English passengers arriving, no matter - from what part, they are all from London. Seeing so many Englishmen in - their country, gentry of the above description have the most exalted - notions of themselves, and of the superiority of Buenos Ayres over the - rest of the world. We must not blame their self-importance; for we - have a tolerable share of it ourselves, else the world has terribly - belied us. - -The NEWSPAPERS published in Buenos Ayres are, the _Argus_, _Teatro del -Opinion_, _Republicano_, and _State Register_. There was, likewise, a -Sunday paper, called the _Centinella_, which has been discontinued--for -what reason I know not, for it was managed with ability. The freedom of -the press may be said to exist in a degree here; to the same extent as -in England, would be dangerous at present. - -The _Mercantile Gazette_, edited by Mr. Hallet, a North-American -gentleman, is very useful; it has every sort of commercial information. -A newspaper of the same description, the _Diario_, carried on by a -Portuguese, failed for want of requisite attention. - -A number of ephemeral productions appear from time to time, "to fret and -strut their hour upon the stage, and then are heard no more." - -In the almanack of 1824, there is a selection of English puns and Joe -Miller's jests, to amuse the Buenos Ayreans, and give them a specimen of -English low wit. - - * * * * * - -The PRINTING-OFFICES are spacious, and furnished with every requisite, -from London. An English printer, Mr. Cook, is employed in one of the -offices, and report states his professional talents to be of the first -order. - - * * * * * - -RELIGION.--Previous to the late treaty with Great Britain, no other -place of public worship was allowed in Buenos Ayres, except those of the -Romish church; and it was only after much discussion, that the article -allowing religious toleration was obtained. - -The Catholic faith has been denominated a religion of the fancy; the -Protestant, one of the mind. A book I have lately read, Blunt's _Italy_, -ingeniously endeavours to prove that most of the Catholic ceremonies -are remnants of Paganism; and the author illustrates his arguments by -comparing the Roman with the Popish festivals. The great similarity -would certainly incline one to give credence to the assertion. The -reformed church, however, has its incongruities likewise. In Buenos -Ayres I have not witnessed any thing like the superstition that reigns -in Belgium; bigots there are, but not more than in some of our sects at -home. The rising generation of Buenos Ayres have gone from one extreme -to another, and are quite Voltairians: at the theatre, during a portrait -exhibition of different public characters, that of Voltaire ran away -with all the applause. - -In January, 1824, an archbishop, named Don Juan Muzi, arrived from Rome -with a large suite, in a Sardinian brig, which hoisted the Papal flag in -addition to her own, and fired a salute. Some time ago, such an event -would have put the whole town in commotion; as it was, few attended to -see him land, and his reception by the government was any thing but -cordial: he shortly after departed for Chili. During his abode, he -lodged at Faunch's Hotel, and there gave his benedictions to the -crowds that visited him, who were mostly females, attracted, I thought, -more from curiosity than from any other motive. The manifest of the -archbishop's effects raised a smile:--there were beads, crosses, and -every trifling appendage of the church. The archbishop himself, from his -venerable aspect and mild manners, engaged the esteem of all; but the -Papal power is on the wane here now, whatever it might have been in -other times. The Catholic church, however, under the care of a liberal -priesthood, and shorn of its superstitions, will insure the respect of -all countries. - -A church, in Catholic countries, ever possesses something to strike the -eye, though there may not be service going on. There are generally to -be seen numbers of poor old women, before their saint, counting their -beads, the low murmurings of their prayers alone breathing the silence -of the place: many times have I advanced with cautious steps, fearing -to interrupt their devotions. The absence of a congregation gives one, -likewise, an opportunity of a closer inspection of the glittering -altars, virgins, saints, and Madonas. No fear exists that sacrilegious -hands would dare purloin any thing from the sacred walls; alas! in -England, our thieves would not be so scrupulous. - -The churches, on a Sunday, or feast day, are worthy a stranger's -attention; and he must be cold indeed, that can view such an assemblage -of beauty unmoved: the dress, the veil, and prostrate persons; indeed, -we might picture other Lauras besides Petrarch's: it is almost enough to -make one turn renegade, forsake the religion of our fathers, and rush -into the bosom of a church so enchanting. - -Public worship takes place at various hours: one mass, as early as six -in the morning, and the sweet girls and their mothers are seen hurrying -to church at that early hour. - -Families going to mass are attended by slaves and servants carrying the -carpeting upon which they kneel. Of books they have few enough; and -would, I dare say, stare to see our London footmen, in gorgeous -liveries, looking like Austrian field-marshals, walking behind their -mistresses, with a load of books, to church, and the host of carriages -that attend a fashionable chapel. - -Upon entering or leaving a church, many of the congregation are content -to receive the holy water at second hand; that is to say, one who is -near the vessel which contains it will dip his fingers in, and furnish -to three or four other persons drops of the sacred element, to make the -sign of the cross. The ladies often condescend to mark with this water -the foreheads of their female slaves and attendants. - -At "oration time," in the dusk of evening, a small bell tingles from the -churches, when, it is presumed, every true Catholic whispers a prayer. -In Buenos Ayres, I am afraid, this is not always the case. - -Some of the music sung in the masses is very pretty: friars and boys -are the vocalists, selected from the best voices. Friar Juan, at the -Cathedral, has a fine bass voice. The Portuguese hymn they sing with -science; but, as I had heard this hymn at the Portuguese Ambassador's -Chapel in London, in which several of the first-rates of the Opera took -parts, the effect here was diminished: they select, too, from profane -music, and I applaud them for it, following the remark attributed to our -Rev. Rowland Hill, on the introduction of "Rule Britannia," and "Hearts -of Oak," into his chapel--"It is really a great shame the devil should -have all the pretty tunes to himself." If music be the "food of love," -it is equally so of religion, insensibly leading the mind to an -enthusiasm, and that softness, that compensates for "a dull age of -pain." I wish they would reform the dismal hum-drum music of our English -churches. I do not wish the lively dance; but something a little less -gloomy than the present mode. My English friends will be shocked to hear -that in a Buenos Ayres church they have played and sung to the charming -air that opens our petit opera of _Paul and Virginia_, "See from ocean -rising." At Monte Video, I heard the Tyrolean war song, or our "Merrily -O," upon the organ, in a church. Music and religion have, and will, -raise these people to war and desperation; other causes must combine to -have the same effect upon Englishmen. - -Persons of both sexes go to confession very young--even at the early age -of ten years. At church confessions, the priest is seated in the box, -to which there is an iron-grating on one side, and through this he hears -the confession of the parties upon their knees outside. I have seen -several women confess;--somehow or other the sex have more devotion than -us men. Doubtless, it is a relief to the overcharged heart to unbosom -itself, and receive the consolations of religion; and I can fancy the -happiness experienced from the gentle expostulations of an amiable -priest, who, in censuring the errors, bids the sinner not despair of -mercy. We, of Protestant creed, appeal to God alone, disdaining earthly -interference. This system of divulging our inmost thoughts has, at all -times, been an argument with the opponents of the Romish church, who -instance, that the peace of families or nations are at the mercy of a -mortal man; and if breaches of confidence are rare, still some villain -might betray his trust, and ruin his unsuspecting victims. To the honour -of the Catholic priesthood, such probabilities are very remote. I am -afraid that I should make a sad father confessor: loveliness upon the -bended knee before me would destroy all my philosophy; I should at once -accord them absolution, remission, and every thing else; and, forgetful -of my oaths and sacred calling, turn suppliant at the feet of those who -came to me as their pastor and guide. - -Females are at times seen in the streets habited as nuns, in flannel -vestments, crosses, beads, &c. the effect of a vow made during sickness -or penance. The sins of some of these young creatures cannot have been -very flagrant: I should have pardoned them for the pleasure of receiving -their confessions again. There is likewise a house in which females pass -weeks in penitence and prayer. - -It is observed of the Spanish female, that she will give herself up -to all the voluptuousness of pleasure, haste to the church, and, -prostrating herself before her favourite saint, return to sin again. -I will not venture to be so severe a censurer as to hazard an opinion -upon this: but, as my eye wandered over the countenances of many a -fair creature of Buenos Ayres, kneeling in graceful beauty before the -inanimate saint, I fancied all and more than books had ever told me; -for, "with faces that seemed as if they had just looked in Paradise, and -caught its early beauty," I fancied that many of earthly mould shared in -those contemplations so seemingly devoted to heaven. - -Small figures of the Virgin Mary, in glass cases, are kept in the -apartments of various homes. In apothecaries' shops I have particularly -noticed them, to bespeak a blessing, doubtless, upon their physic. In -the mansions of the poorer class they are more frequently seen; the -costly saint and miserable dirty furniture of the rooms contrasted. A -full-length figure of a saint, in a wire cage, with lamps on each side, -is in the street of Le Cuyo, placed in accordance with a vow made in -a period of danger; but, in general, there are less externals of the -church in the public streets and roads than might be expected. - -On passing a church, it was a constant custom to take off the hat; -but few do it now. The beggars about these holy edifices clamour for -charity, for the love of God and St. Rosario, or any other apostle -favourite. These beggars are great thieves; I have lost several articles -by their professional visits to my lodgings. They do not shoulder -crutches and wooden legs, either to fight or run, as their London -brethren, upon the approach of the police. One of my friends told me of -an old woman, in Buenos Ayres, that spits upon every person she supposes -to be an Englishman. Not having had the fortune to receive this lady's -favours, I cannot vouch for the truth of the story. - -The priesthood are not so illiberal as report makes them out; they are -painted to us as having a fixed hatred to Protestants, conceiving them -to be the authors of all the obloquy the Catholics have endured from -time to time. It must be recollected, that we have our errors on the -score of prejudice likewise. - -The friars of Buenos Ayres have amongst their body men of considerable -learning; and, whatever hostility exists towards the system, they, as -individuals, do not generally share in it. There may be one or two black -sheep in the flock; and scandal takes care to blazen forth their deeds, -particularly all that relates to their amours, but the common frailty -of our nature should teach us to be merciful judges where love is -concerned. The people have much respect for them; and, from what I have -heard, they deserve it. Formerly, it is related, that on any offender -being flogged in the public streets, the appearance of a priest calling -for mercy would stop the infliction. If this was the case in England, -our unflogged thieves would be bound to pray for them. - -Four years since, two Englishmen having quarrelled, one of them ran into -Le Merced church for protection from his opponent, who followed, and -beat him under the very robes of the priest; a guard was called, and -the offender taken into custody. Having an excellent character, he was -liberated from prison on bail; and the affair ended in an expensive law -suit. Some years back, he would have been severely punished for his -inconsiderate conduct. - -Some of the friars are handsome men: I have remarked one of them a -counterpart of Young the actor. Their dress, shaven crown, and dark -hair, added much to their appearance: the ugly attire they now wear, is -a sad drawback. In my casual rencontres with them, I ever found them -polite and attentive, effacing that diffidence which a stranger feels in -venturing upon their hallowed precincts. The inquisition has never been -established in Buenos Ayres; but I have often been cruel enough to -fancy, that such and such a priest had a countenance like an inquisitor. - -The suppression of the monasteries, in 1822, caused a great deal of -discussion. There were those of the well-inclined who were not without -apprehensions, and seemed disposed to let the presumed evil continue, -rather than risk a change. The government must have felt their own -strength, when they determined to reform so influential a portion of the -church, having to encounter the prejudices and fanaticism of those grown -grey in the old order of things, who regarded meddling with the church -as little short of heresy. The friars were, in a manner, domesticated -with the first families of Buenos Ayres, and ever received as welcome -guests. They must (at least, some of them) have felt great reluctance -to quit the convents, in which they had expected to remain for life, -and regret at parting with the attire of their order. Discontent was -engendered, at times, almost amounting to threats, which found vent in a -conspiracy, ending in the banishment of Tagle, its author; and another -more serious one, of the 19th March, 1823. The result of these abortive -attempts served to confirm the power and influence of the existing -government. The majority of the people, I should conceive, thought an -alteration necessary in the clergy: many of that majority had visited -Europe, and became divested of the narrow policy the Spaniards had -taught them. - -Elderly ladies, of all countries, are allowed to be more pious than the -rest of society. The friars in Buenos Ayres found them staunch advocates -of their cause. - -To counteract the strong feeling that existed for the friars, the -press of the day had recourse to ridicule, as well as to argument: -a publication called the "_Llobera_," teemed with paragraphs and -anecdotes, often so indecent that it injured the cause it proposed to -serve. This print was soon laid aside. In the mean time, the suppression -gradually went on; and all that now remains of the monasteries of Buenos -Ayres are the Franciscans. The buildings will soon perhaps be converted -to other uses. The ejected friars, throwing off their habit, assumed -a clerical half-dress, very similar to that of our clergymen; and the -Dominicans, Mercedites, &c. are now met in the streets, as simple -citizens, no longer wearing the livery of the founders of those orders. -Three years ago, groupes of friars were continually about the church -doors, in coffee-houses, and the streets, segar smoking, apparently -under no church restrictions: when a reform was agitated, they were -more strict, and the convent gates were closed at a certain hour. The -Franciscans, who yet keep together, are rarely to be seen abroad, except -the messengers, or lay brothers, who are, in dress and figure, no bad -copy of their prototype, in _The Duenna_. - -If the original rules of monastic institutions were put in full force, -few claimants would be found for the honour of entering them. A suitable -provision has been made for those who have left their convents; the -government appropriating the lands attached for the benefit of the -state. Time appears, in some measure, to have healed the wounds of the -discontented, though there are some who pretend the flame is smothered, -and not burnt out; "Give it vent," they say, "and 'twill blaze again." - -There are two convents for NUNS, St. Juan and St. Catalina, each -containing about thirty. The regulations of St. Juan's are very rigid: -they wear clothing of the coarsest nature, and the beds, and every other -accommodation, are of the same description. No one is permitted to see -them, except their nearest relations, and that very rarely. Heavens! how -ardent must be that devotion, that can voluntarily embrace such a life! -A female, on her first entrance, may leave at the end of a year; but, -after that time, she is professed, and must conform to the rules. Very -few, I believe, take advantage of this option. Such is the force of -religious enthusiasm, that they gladly bid farewell to the world, -wishing no father, mother, lover, friend, but their God and Saviour. - -At St. Catalina's they are not so strict, being allowed indulgences -unknown to the self-immolated of St. Juan. - -I have never seen any of the fair inhabitants of these convents; but -when the nuns of Buenos Ayres have formed the subject of conversation, I -have eagerly listened, expecting to hear something of disappointed love, -or confidence betrayed. Alas it was in vain: the ladies of St. Juan and -Catalina are nuns from the dull routine of religion, with one exception -only, if my information is true; and advantage was not taken to quiz -my avidity for nunnery news. The tale runs, that St. Juan's convent -does contain, a victim of "despised love." Her lover, an officer, of -course--for what men in trade ever think of love?--joined the army -in Peru, and married another. At the age of seventeen, the fair, -betrayed girl fearlessly took the veil, chiding her weeping mother -for her cruelty, nay, sinfulness, at shewing such affliction for what -constituted her daughter's only happiness. An account of the ceremony -was given me;--but who shall take the field in description, after the -glowing details we have read in romances? and especially at second-hand. - -The majority of the nuns in these two convents are aged, having received -very few additions, lately, of the youthful class. Has man, false man, -become more constant, no longer striving to break the heart of the -doting fair one or, are the ladies less sensitive, preferring, at all -hazards, this bustling world to the cloister's gloom, exclaiming with -Sheridan's _Clara_, - - "Adieu, thou dreary pile, where never dies - "The sullen echo of repentant sighs!" - -In the most minute affairs of the Romish church, there is a formula, -which, having antiquity for its basis, imposes upon the mind of its -followers; and, as regards a conventual life, the first dawn of such a -wish, even before the parties quit their parents' house, amounts to a -ceremony. In the year 1822, my curiosity was gratified by an exhibition -of this sort. I was invited to a house, in which a lady, about to become -a nun, was receiving the last farewells of her friends. It was evening; -and it was with difficulty that I gained admittance from the crowd -outside. The lady was seated in the _sala_; arrayed in her best attire; -her head and neck decorated with jewellery; such is the fashion, this -being a contrast to the dress she was about to assume. Music was heard; -and it seemed more like a party met for gaiety, than one in which -the afterpiece was to be so serious--the taking from the world a -fellow-creature. The lady--I was going to write, victim--was all smiles; -no regrets were apparent in her bosom; she received the adieus of her -friends with calm composure. A friar, attached perhaps to the convent, -was in the room: in taking her final leave, she was escorted by him and -her relatives. With a firm step, bowing to all around, she quitted the -room. In passing our party (consisting of several Englishmen), I thought -she eyed us particularly; we bowed to her; and the door closed upon us. -That same night, I am informed, she was conducted to the gloomy walls of -St. Juan, and has since taken the veil. The lady appeared about nineteen -or twenty years of age; she was not handsome, but the occasion rendered -her very interesting. - -The first RELIGIOUS PROCESSION I had ever seen, was that of St. Rosario, -in Buenos Ayres; and it is not possible I can forget the impression it -made upon me. Those details which, when a school-boy, I dwelt upon with -such delight, were now, in my manhood, brought full before my eyes, -losing nothing of their interest; on the contrary, I found that -imagination does not always come up to the reality. The churches of -France and Belgium I had visited with far different emotions: Spain, and -Spanish connexions, thought I, contain all that can fix the attention of -the Protestant inquirer, who wishes to see the Catholic church the same -in the nineteenth as in the fourteenth century. Spain clings to it; with -its many imperfections, as a fond lover to an idolized mistress; else -they would not have suffered foreigners to overrun their soil. What -would the heroes of Roncevalles and Pavia have said to those events? - -The figure of St. Rosario, full-robed, was carried by soldiers, on a -stage. The Virgin, on another stage, followed, flanked by numbers of the -faithful carrying large lighted candles; these were chiefly old men, -and boys. The host, and attendant priests wafting incense towards -this sacred emblem, formed a conspicuous part; with groups of friars -chaunting their prayers, in which they are joined by the crowd. A huge -cross, apparently of silver, and borne by friars, precedes the whole. -A small band of violinists attend, and accompany the singing: they -reminded me of our itinerant musicians, that serenade us of an evening -in London. The military band has a better effect. A halt is made, at -intervals, at the corners of streets, or opposite temporary altars, -which the devotion of the pious has raised in front of their houses: -they consist of tables, covered with white linen, with small images of -Jesus, the Virgin, crosses, &c. &c. and a mirror, garnished with flowers -and other decorations. Soldiers march in front and rear. They, as well -as every one else near the procession, are uncovered; and when the -ceremonies of the host are going on, all must kneel. The houses display -silks, tapestry, and other finery, arranged in front, in the streets -through which the cavalcade passes; and the balconies are filled with -spectators. The saints and his dumb attendants (the images), are finally -deposited at their head-quarters, the church. A great quantity of -females are always to be seen at those exhibitions, fervently -ejaculating their "Ave-Marias." - -These processions vary but very little, except that I thought there was -more of preparation, banners, &c. in that of St. Nicholas, on the 6th -December. The streets were profusely adorned, road and foot-path strewed -with flowers, leaves, and boughs. Small cannon were placed on the -pavement near the church, the firing of which, and the discharge of -rockets and other fire-works, gave notice that the saint and his holy -attendants were about to leave the church. Gentlemen, both civil -and military, of the first families, at times, bear banners in the -procession. These days being kept as holidays, a vast concourse stroll -about the decorated streets before the attraction of the day begins. The -windows, house-tops, and benches ranged near the houses, are occupied by -females, the lovely persons of some of whom might move an anchorite. A -scene so new has almost upset my sober reasoning; and I have looked at -the host, friars, crosses, music, and all the et ceteras, till I could -nearly fancy that time had rolled back, and found me living when the -Catholic church knew no rival. - -The feast of St. Nicholas, in December, 1824, was but a mockery of its -former splendour: however, the church of San Nicholas was illuminated, -and looked very pretty; and we had some bonfires, music, and fire-works. -A procession was to have taken place, but the government would not pay -the expense, and the church, in its present reduced state, cannot afford -it. The devotees muttered their Ave-Marias and maledictions; but, as St. -Nicholas did not interfere in their behalf, all went off quietly. - -The feast of Corpus Christi is another grand day. The whole body of -friars, with banners and flags of their different orders, mustered on -the occasion, and, before the suppression of the monasteries, they -constituted a decent battalion. The dress of the friars differs in -nothing to what we find represented in England,--the cowl and crown, -with the small cross suspended. The processions, in the course of the -year, used to be very numerous. Since the dispersion of the friars, they -are somewhat shorn of their beams; and, by-and-by, the sight of a friar -may be a curiosity. To decorate the churches on these occasions, the -priests borrow candlesticks, silks, &c. of their neighbours. - -During Lent, sermons are preached on an evening, in various churches. -The congregations are numerous, and the females always kneel. The custom -of allowing males to be seated in church, while the other sex are upon -their knees, appears strange. - -As the theatre is situated opposite the Merced church, during the -sermons of the Lent evenings, some of the congregation may be seen -wandering from the church to the theatre. - -In passion week, there are various masses and sermons. - -The afternoon and evening of Holy Thursday bring forth all the world -into the streets: every house appears deserted. The concourse is -astonishing: the great proportion are females. A rule of Catholic -creed enjoins them to visit seven churches on this day; and this they -religiously perform, stopping but a few minutes in each church, just -time enough to kneel, and utter a short prayer. The governor and his -aides-de-camp, likewise, go to seven churches. A crowd of both sexes -assemble round the doors, especially of the Cathedral, absolutely -blocking up the road way, kneeling, counting beads, and in earnest -prayer. - -In 1821, I saw images and other insignia of the church at the corners of -the principal streets; prisoners ironed, with their guards, soliciting -charity; small tables, with virgins, Jesus, and crosses: but these -customs have much fallen off. Near a church, those altars are still -raised on Holy Thursday, and people press around, to kiss the garments -of the "mother of God." Near St. Juan's church, in 1824, I observed a -pretty design of this nature upon a small scale, and envied the kisses -it received from some charming girls. On this night, too, the military -bands muster in their best dresses, with drums muffled, and other marks -of mourning. They advance across the Plaza, and through the streets, at -a solemn pace, playing music even more melancholy than the Dead March -in Saul, preceded by one of the soldiers carrying, on a pole, a balloon -with transparencies, and a light inside, which makes them look a -counterpart of those that paraded London streets, a few years ago, from -the lottery offices. During this period of mourning, both sexes are -clothed in black. This continual crowd in the streets, and the peculiar -church attire, serve to attract one's attention; it is so much the -reverse of our English mode: we go to church in all the colours of the -rainbow. - -In addition to other observances of Holy Thursday the flags of vessels -belonging to Catholic nations are half-masted, yards crossed, and at the -Fort, likewise, they remain till near twelve o'clock on the Saturday, at -which hour cannon are fired, yards squared, the flag run up, bells rung, -and shops are opened, for the joyful resurrection. But the bells do not -give us those inspiring peals that we hear from our churches of St. -Martin's, St. Clement's, and from the far-famed Bow bells: here, they -are an inharmonious jangle. Our churches, so superb in architectural -splendour, would astonish those gentlemen who fancy an Englishman's -taste only leads him towards vending merchandize, and receiving the -proceeds. - -Good Friday passes as a solemn day of prayer and mourning. - -The burning of Judas is a grotesque affair. Stuffed figures, like our -old Guys, are suspended from ropes in the middle of the street, charged -with combustibles and fire-works. On the night of Saturday, they are -fired, and Mr. Judas is blown up, amidst the shouts of the multitude. -This, like our Guy Fawkes, has much fallen off, and may soon drop -altogether. The newspapers have designated it barbarism. I am not for -meddling with the sports of the lower orders, if they do not offend -decency. The quarrel with Captain O'Brien happened about Easter, 1821; -and one of the Judases of that period was observed in something of the -dress of a naval officer: report said, it was meant for Captain O'Brien. -It was ordered to be taken down. The people took very little interest -in that dispute. When it was at its height, the Captain passed through -a crowd opposite the College church, and they treated him with great -respect, making way for the "English Commandant" to pass. "We may all -suffer in this business," said our captain to one of his countrymen; -"but we shall, if extremes are resorted to, be gloriously revenged." - -The holy or passion week in 1825 passed off much as usual. On the -Thursday evening the ladies crowded the churches and streets in their -black attire; and being a fine moonlight night, the scene (to me at -least) was very interesting; and although I did not follow the custom -of visiting seven churches on this evening, I went to four. At the -Cathedral I remained a considerable time, listening to the music of the -vespers. The fine bass voice of Friar Juan was sadly missed. He was -banished for being concerned in the conspiracy of the 19th March, 1823. -Valentin Gomez, one of the canons of the church, sat in full pontifical -robes. Some of the Spaniards were jesting, in the church, upon his -portly appearance, so different from the figure he cut at nearly the -same period last year, when shipwrecked upon the English bank in the -river Plate. I felt much impressed with my visit to the Cathedral: every -thing combined to make me so;--the music, lights, and glittering altars, -with the prostrate females attended by their slaves and servants. - -The sermons at the churches, on the evenings of Lent, were well -attended. The friar who preached at the church of Le Merced always -attracted great crowds. At the porch of this church was placed an image -of Christ, as large as life, in the act of being scourged; many devout -females kissed the ropes which tied the wrists of the image. - -Till late in the evening of Holy Thursday, people were kneeling before -the church doors, counting beads, and saying their Ave-Marias. At nine -o'clock at night, three military bands of music, of the artillery, -Cacadores, and Legion de la Patria, each preceded by the globe, or -balloon, with transparencies, carried upon a pole, entered the Plaza -with drums muffled, and playing solemn airs. The artillery band was -much admired; Masoni, and other professors, performed in it. I followed -two of the bands to their barracks, at the Retiro. The night was lovely; -and it was late ere I returned home, my thoughts entirely absorbed in -the scenes of the day. - -On the afternoon of Good Friday, the mass at the cathedral was well -attended. - -The custom of burning Judas has fallen off. On the Saturday, this year, -the rain fell in torrents; but, a few nights after, Judas was burnt near -the Victoria coffee-house, amidst fire-works and music. - -Another great object of attention to us Protestants is the Holy Ghost -proceeding through the streets, to administer the last offices of -religion to those who are presumed to be in a dying state. The holy -father, and one attendant, both richly attired, are seated in a coach -drawn by white mules. They go at a walking pace, with a few soldiers for -escort; negresses, boys, and others, carrying lighted lanterns, both by -night and day. A bell warns passengers of its approach, when all within -view must be uncovered, and, when they are near the carriage, kneel. -This last operation, not being very agreeable in dirty weather, -foreigners try to avoid his holiness altogether, by going up other -streets. Equestrians descend from their horses, and kneel. At night, -lights are placed in the windows of the houses they pass, and their -inmates kneel. Why do you kneel? said I, to a slave boy, at a house in -which I resided. "Because God is in the coach," he replied. A brutal -soldier, of the escort, once knocked an Englishman down, for not -kneeling in time. The magistrates took cognizance of it; and, I hear, -that strangers are not now obliged to kneel, though common respect will -always teach them to be uncovered. In passing the guardhouses, the -guards turn out, drums are beat, &c. They have now a large bell, -the small one having been mistaken for those belonging to the -water carts:[29] a Londoner might mistake it for the bell of the -six-o'clock-afternoon postman. - - [29] Carts, with a bell affixed, go about the streets vending water. - The city is but ill provided with water, that in the river being - considered unwholesome. Mr. Bevans, the engineer, has sunk the ground - at the Recolator to a great depth, for the purpose of forming a well - to supply the town with water. The work still goes on; but, hitherto, - the desired water is not to be found. - -Great veneration is paid to all that concerns this ceremony of the Holy -Ghost: the very mules, it is said, were formerly looked upon as sacred. -In passing coffee-houses, billiard-players, and gamblers of all -descriptions, leave their profane games, to kneel. At the theatre, the -performance is stopped; actors and actresses kneel on the stage, and the -audience upon their seats. I have several times been present at scenes -of this sort, and regarded them with great curiosity; though I have been -very angry with the holy father, and impious enough to wish he had taken -another route. I recollect, during an opera, one evening, the cavalcade -passed no less than three times, and interrupted a delightful duet -between Rosquellas and Senora Tani. - -The summer of 1824-5, judging from the frequent appearance of the Holy -Ghost in the streets, must have been rather a sickly one. Great respect -is still paid to this holy visitant, who generally selects the evening -to pay his visits. A smile will now and then take place, when the -procession suddenly appears in a crowded neighbourhood, forcing all to -bend the knee. The contrast of such Catholic customs with those of our -sober England often occurs to me. - -I am informed that great preparations take place in the sick chamber, -where the sacrament is to be given. I do not admire this. The patient, -enfeebled by disease, concludes there is no hope left; and often yields -to despair. In England, on such occasions, a clergyman comes without -pomp or attendants: his attentions are more like those of a friend, and -he insensibly prepares the mind of the sufferer for the purposes of his -visit. But we have much to correct in the dismal funeral bell, closing -shops and windows, usual with us at burials. Life hourly presents enough -to remind us of death, without those auxiliaries. - - * * * * * - -FUNERAL CEREMONIES.--The room in which a corpse is deposited is lighted; -large candles are placed round the coffin; and the wainscoting, tables, -&c. are covered with white furniture, crosses, &c. The windows are often -thrown open, for passengers to view the scene of death, as a warning -that "to this complexion we must come at last." I remember my surprise -on first seeing a spectacle of this sort. The corpse of a female about -thirty lay shrouded in her coffin, the lid of which was taken off, with -her hands folded over her breast, and a small cross placed between them. -The gaudy coffin, and the lights around it, gave it the appearance of -wax work; indeed, I had an impression that it was so, for some minutes, -not being aware of the country's fashion in this affair. - -Deceased persons are interred twenty-four hours after their decease; a -necessary precaution in a warm climate. From the crowded state of the -church-yards, they are now taken to the New Burial-Ground, at the -Recolator; and corpses were removed thither from the church-yards, after -having been buried some time. Scenes of confusion, in consequence, -took place; with various imprecations from near relations, as mothers, -husbands, and wives, upon recognizing the bodies of those whom they -never expected to have seen again in this world. - -The hearses are modelled after the French fashion, and are not followed -by mourners. The relatives of the deceased attend the burial-ground to -receive the body, and the church ceremonies of mass, &c. take place some -days after. - -The death of a friar, or any priest, is announced by a particular -tolling of the bell. - -The masses for the repose of the soul are performed at various churches, -according to the wish of the relatives, who issue printed notices, -inviting the friends of the deceased. Any one is at liberty to attend. -Those of respectability, who can afford to pay, have several masses: but -it is rather an expensive affair. The ceremony lasts from one to two -hours. An imitation coffin is placed near the altar, surrounded by -lights. If it be for a military or public man, the sword and hat are -placed on the coffin, and a company of soldiers fire a volley at the -church door. Towards the end of the mass, candles are put into the hands -of the male part of the congregation, and in a few minutes taken from -them again, and extinguished. At the close, the priests and friars, -headed by their superior, take their station, in two lines, near the -door, and receive and return the obeisances of the congregation. -The relations and particular friends adjourn to the dwelling-house -(sometimes to the refectory of the church), where a repast is prepared, -of cakes, fruit, wine, liqueurs, beer, &c. the room being lighted, and -hung with black and white decorations. I have heard some charming music -in these masses, and it is far from being an unimpressive scene: the -holding a light at the requiem of those we loved, carries with it a -pleasing idea. There is, however, more real feeling in the simple -country church-yard funerals in England, than in all this appeal to -the senses. - -A fantastic ornamented hearse, for carrying the bodies of children -to their last home, has lately come into use. It has plumes of white -feathers streaming from the top, and is drawn by two mules; the rider, -a boy, is clothed after the manner of Astley's equestrians. - -Until the year 1821, the Protestants had no allotted place of burial; -and, to satisfy the jealousy of the church, various subterfuges were -obliged to be resorted to, in order to obtain something like a christian -funeral. The government gave permission, and a piece of ground was -bought, near the Retiro, for a cemetery, which has been inclosed, and -a small chapel, with a neat portico of the Doric order, erected. The -expence amounted to 4800 dollars, which was defrayed by Protestants of -all classes: the British, were, of course, the chief contributors. The -number buried there, from January 1821, to June 1824, was 71; of which -60 were British subjects. The service is read by some of the parties -present. - -At the funerals in the Protestant Burial-Ground, I have seen many Buenos -Ayreans, both male and female, attracted thither by curiosity; they paid -great attention, and expressed their approbation of our method of making -the graves so deep. - -Before this ground was opened, Protestants were buried without any -service being read, and the shallow ground was hastily filled up. It was -a favour that their fellowman was allowed to take up his "everlasting -rest" in holy Catholic earth. I saw an English sailor interred in the -Cathedral church-yard: a police-man attended, to see that no unfair -means had been used, and three or four friars were strolling about. The -sailor mourners eyed them askance, declaring it was shameful that they -did not offer to perform the funeral service: "But what can you expect," -they added, "in such an unchristianlike land?" Their resentment was -increased by seeing the mutilated body of a dead black child, which, -from the nature of their graves, had made its appearance above the -surface. - - * * * * * - -POLICE, &c.--To every barrier or parish an _alcalde_, or sitting -magistrate, is appointed, who takes cognizance of the offences and -disputes in his jurisdiction, and superintends the night-patrole. Every -male is liable to be called out to act as watchman for the night; and he -must attend, or provide a substitute, which costs six reals; and as this -happens very often, strangers find it a tax. The patrole are armed with -musquets and bayonets, and proceed through the streets at intervals -during the night, visiting public houses, &c. - -The most inferior officer connected with the police, or any public -office, carries a rusty dragoon sword with him as his staff of office. -The very messenger that delivers the summons for the nightly patrole -comes thus armed, and upon the least provocation out goes the sword: -this has been of late years a little corrected. - -Buenos Ayres can boast of a well-disposed and orderly population. -Robberies are sometimes committed, but nothing to the extent that might -be supposed; many more are committed in an English city of the same -magnitude, notwithstanding the expensive police. I have been out at all -hours of the night, and have felt myself as secure as though I were in -London, and perhaps more so. - -The only time that I ever met with any thing like annoyance or -interruption in the streets, was from a soldier on guard at the Cabildo, -who made an attempt to push me from the pavement. I did not wish to -notice the affair; but a Creole friend insisted that I should do so, -stating, that in London he presumed Englishmen protected strangers when -insulted. He went with me to the guard-house, alleged a complaint before -an officer, and the soldier was confined: he appeared to be drunk. - -The great blot of this country is, that amongst the lower orders, upon -the least quarrel, knives are out; and what in England would vent itself -in black eyes and bloody noses, here ends in murder; and until certain -and speedy punishment follows these deeds, it will ever be so. The -crime has decreased since the administration of Mr. Rivadavia, and -the enactment of the law prohibiting the wearing of knives; still -it continues in a degree. Justice is tardy, and the chance that the -criminal may again be at liberty deters people from prosecuting, -dreading his future vengeance. In England, where the law is strong, -every one assists to apprehend an offender; but here a lukewarmness -exists. - -Several have, within these three years, suffered death for murder. I am -inclined to think, that a law upon the plan of Lord Ellenborough's act -would do much to stop it. A Portuguese, some months since, stabbed to -death the servant of Mr. Bevans, the Quaker engineer, in open day. The -opponents of boxing, in England, should pause ere they so decidedly -condemn it; its suppression might lead to more fatal results in deciding -quarrels. - -It was a common event, long after I arrived, to see bodies of persons -who had been stabbed in some broil, exposed in the Plaza, to be -recognized by their relatives or friends, with a saucer placed at their -side to collect money to pay the expences of burying them. - -These murders are confined to the very lowest orders of the people, -and are generally the effect of a drunken quarrel. I must do them the -justice to say, that I have not heard of any deliberate assassination, -committed either upon a native or foreigner. Their annals are free from -the refined murders of polished Europe, even, I regret to add, of our -own England; we must not always cite the latter as an example, when we -censure the abuses of other countries. - -This stabbing system was thought so little of in Buenos Ayres, that no -one cared to seize the murderer. If by chance he was apprehended, a -short imprisonment sufficed, and he was then set at liberty to commit -more crimes. Six or seven murders have been related to me, as known to -have been committed by one man with apparent impunity; and that these -things should be so, excites the astonishment of all strangers. - -Foreigners newly arrived were accustomed to carry pistols about their -persons at night; but this is very seldom the case now--they have more -confidence. - -The thieves, in some of their feats, may rank in ingenuity with the -second-rate ones with us. One of their operations is hooking out -clothes, linen, &c. from rooms, by means of a long pole with a hook at -the end; and if the windows are not fastened at night, a risk is run of -being robbed, though the iron bars should prevent any one from entering. -Some friends of mine, lodging at the American Hotel, were plundered by -those pole gentlemen one night, although sleeping three in a room, and -they knew not of their loss until the morning, when they missed coats, -trowsers, &c.; a writing-desk had also been hauled towards the window, -the valuables taken out, and the loose papers scattered about the street -and room. The comparing notes in the morning of their losses, and -cursing the marauders, was laughable enough. Another friend was awoke at -break of day, and observed his waistcoat dangling in the middle of the -room from the top of a pole, and a man's arm extended through the iron -bars of the window guiding it. My friend having a sword could with ease -have cut off the thief's arm, but his humanity prompted him rather to -make an alarm; upon which the pole and waistcoat were dropped, and the -vagabond made his escape. Very serious losses of papers have been -sustained by this mode of robbery. - -The boys about the theatre door begging for the return tickets, or -"contre-signs," were a great annoyance; they were perfect thieves, -and very impudent. I have lost several pocket handkerchiefs by their -talents. Having refused to give my pass-check one night, they secretly -followed me, and when near the wall of the Merced church, to my great -surprise, saluted me with a shower of stones and bricks: I pursued -the young rascals, but it was without effect. The soldiers prevent -occurrences of this sort now, and two or three that were caught in the -fact have been punished. - -The boys in the streets of Buenos Ayres are as saucy a set of ragamuffins -as those of London, without that daring and instant battle of the English -boys. Many of their juvenile sports are similar to our's; as kite flying, -pitch in the hole, &c. They have a system of managing their kites, which -may be called privateering: a knife is affixed to the tail of the kite, -with which they endeavour to entangle other kites, and cut the string; -should they succeed, knife, kite, string--all become lawful prize. -Cricket, trap-ball, hoops, tops, and skipping, they do not practise. -Riding on the backs of sheep, harnessed as horses, is another amusement; -and those mutton cavalry are very expert. - -The boys of the upper class are exceedingly well-behaved, and have very -pleasing manners: they excel our's in this respect. The greatest care is -bestowed upon them; and we do not meet with that roughness among them, -which is observable in my young countryfolks. The Buenos Ayres boy -addresses a stranger in the street hat in hand, and with the greatest -respect. - -Since my abode in Buenos Ayres, I have been lucky enough to keep clear -of all law proceedings; and never, until lately, visited a judicial -court, except from curiosity. I was, however, requested to appear, in -order to speak to the character of an English sailor, who was imprisoned -at the Cabildo for a row, on the beach. I visited the prison, and found -poor Jack roaming about a spacious yard, with lots of other prisoners; -he spoke highly of the kind treatment he had received in prison. The -presiding judge, or magistrate (a most gentlemanly man), after hearing -the depositions read, discharged the sailor, no witnesses appearing -for the prosecution. Mr. Poussett, the vice-consul, attended upon this -occasion, and received every attention from the judge. - -The mode of punishment by death is shooting; many think that hanging -would be more appropriate for murder, and that the soldier's death ought -to be reserved for a soldier: however, death cancels all crimes. - -In a public whipping, the offender is placed on a horse or mule, with -his back bared, and his hands tied, and at the corners of streets he -receives his punishment: those disgusting scenes I always avoid, if I -can. I came once in contact with one: the poor wretch did not seem to -suffer much; I fancied I had been as severely flogged at school. They -appeared to strike him about a dozen quick blows at a time, with a piece -of wood like a scrubbing-brush with some sharp substance attached. - -Those ordered for imprisonment, are made to work in the streets, heavily -ironed. - -Sailors are punished by being put in the stocks; and for criminal -offences, they are made to work in the streets in irons. - -The close of the year 1824 witnessed a great increase of crime in Buenos -Ayres. An atrocious murder was committed by two black fellows, upon a -Genoese, who kept a tin shop near the College church. The murderers -were apprehended, and shot at the Retiro, and their bodies afterwards -suspended upon a gallows. A boy, accessary to the fact (having let the -villains into the house), escaped capital punishment, being under the -age regulated by law: he was, however, present at the execution. Two -fellows broke into the house of Mr. Nelson, an English merchant, and -stabbed his man-servant in several places; an alarm being given, they -effected their escape. The servant recovered from his wounds. Numerous -other robberies have taken place; amongst which, Mr. Parvin, an American -clergyman, and three of his friends, were stripped of their clothes, a -short distance from town. - -The first execution in this country for forgery took place in February, -1825, upon the person of Marcelo Valdivia, who was shot at the Retiro. -By the old Spanish law, a person convicted of forgery was condemned to -lose his hand. This young man had been before sentenced to death for the -same crime, but his punishment was commuted to exposure in the Plaza, -imprisonment for eight years, and banishment for life. In July, 1824, he -underwent the first part of his sentence, being seated in the Plaza for -four hours, with the notes he had forged suspended from his breast. -In prison, he committed other forgeries, including a forged order for -his own release. The government have been highly applauded for their -firmness in punishing this criminal. His friends applied to the British -consul for his intercession, which was declined. Colonel Forbes, the -American agent, was much censured for having, in 1821, interfered and -saved a murderer from justice. - -A black woman was shot, for attempting the life of her mistress. The -execution of a female is a rare thing in this country. - -Much as Buenos Ayres has improved in her jurisprudence, she has still a -great deal to amend--that part which relates to committal before trial -for civil offences particularly. The two following circumstances passed -under my observation. - -Upon the first issue of paper money, some forgeries were detected. An -English captain, West, of the brig _Fortune_, conversing on this subject -at a tavern, remarked, that a forgery might easily be effected; and that -the gentlemen in that line at home would not be long about such a thing. -This was reported to the police; and he was sent to prison without -examination, upon suspicion of knowing of the forged notes, and was not -released for some days. - -In another case, Captain Harrison, of the brig _Asia_, was imprisoned -nearly a month, for bringing a false report of Monte Video being -blockaded; which was indeed partly true, Brazilian schooners of war -having been off there, and sailed for Colonia. - -If such regulations were followed in England, we must build more prisons -as well as churches, and I know not what would become of the gentlemen -of the Stock Exchange. - -The trial by jury, which alone is worth fighting for, may yet reach -South America. Every abuse cannot at once be rectified; they have, -already, done wonders in this country. - -Law proceedings are as expensive and tardy here, as in other parts of -the globe. What with depositions, answers, &c. the suit goes on for -years to the great benefit of lawyers; but they have reformed a great -deal of the old obnoxious Spanish laws, particularly as they related to -foreigners and their property. By the old law, when a foreigner died, -their property in the country went to the state. - -To leave Buenos Ayres, if it is only for a neighbouring town, passports -must be obtained, which cost two dollars to quit the country, and four -reals for any neighbouring town. Surprise is expressed that we can -manage without those ceremonies in England; some passengers arriving -from thence were once asked by a visiting officer for their English -passports. - - * * * * * - -ARMY.--The standing army of the province consists of from 2500 to 3000 -men in six regiments, _viz._ three of infantry, and three of cavalry. Of -the infantry, there is one regiment of artillery, one Cacadores, and one -of the line. There are also two regiments of Civicas, or militia. - -The troops have lately improved, both in appearance and discipline; and -indeed, there was great need of it: at present, a great deal cannot be -said in their praise. Their manoeuvres are few, such as forming line, -companies, &c. and some minor movements, as firing volleys, street -firing, &c. sufficient, probably, for the warfare in which they are -likely to be engaged. The sudden change of front, close column, solid -squares, the quick deploying into line, close firing, and rapid bayonet -charge, are not to be seen among the troops of Buenos Ayres. Against -veterans they could make but a feeble resistance; but in defending -the town, with the assistance of the inhabitants and their house -fortifications, they would be invincible; and to this mode of fighting -I would advise the Buenos Ayreans to trust, should their city ever again -be attacked. - -The artillery corps are better: they work the guns with smartness, and -have a good train of artillery, of six, eight, and twelve pounders, -taken from the Spaniards at Monte Video and other places. Repeated -exercise and firing take place with those great guns, early in a -morning, on the beach. - -The uniform coat of the soldiers is blue, with different facings of red, -white, and green: they have caps like our infantry. The undress is a -foraging cap, with a loop hanging on one side, trowsers of all colours, -and some without shoes or stockings. The recruits are not immediately -clothed in the soldier's uniform, but drilled in all their dirt and -native raggedness. The population will not admit of the mode of -recruiting practised in Europe; they take every one they can: the -equipments and material of their army are not, in consequence, very -imposing. - -If the men, in their attire, look sometimes like Sir John Falstaff's -famed regiment--not so the officers; they have fine showy uniforms, and -cocked hats with the national cockade. The subaltern part are young men; -the colonels make a good soldier-like appearance. Colonel Ramirez, in -his blue coat and gold epaulets, always puts me in mind of a British -naval officer; and Colonel Alvarez, who was wounded in our storming of -Monte Video, reminds me of Raymond of Drury-Lane theatre. - -There are some French and German officers in the service: the former, in -blue coats and white facings, still look like the soldiers of Napoleon. - -The only English officer at present in the military service of Buenos -Ayres, is a gentleman named Charles Bowness; who, from having been -nearly fifteen years in this country, is, in appearance, more like a -Spaniard than an Englishman. He left England when very young, and has -not heard of his family since his departure. - -It was seldom that military officers were seen out of uniform; they wore -it in the theatre, in the coffee-house, and in the assembly. But this -fashion has changed; and when not on duty, the dress of the citizen is -now preferred. On the continent of Europe, we are in constant contact -with the military, and as constantly reminded of military despotism. - -The infantry soldier is armed with a musquet and bayonet: the musquets -have the Tower of London mark, and, as well as the cavalry swords, would -look all the better for cleaning. The sergeants of infantry do not -carry halberts. The regular cavalry are few in number, and not quite -so brilliant as the Marquis of Anglesea's crack regiment, or the Tenth -Hussars. - -The punishment of flogging is resorted to: I have often heard the cries -of the sufferers belonging to a black regiment, quartered near my abode. -I fear it is impossible to keep discipline without it, or public opinion -would, long ere this, have suppressed it in England. - -The bands of music attached to the regiments have made great progress -in their profession: three years ago they were hardly bearable. -Unfortunately, now, the ruling military authorities will not give us -much opportunity of judging of their talents. They were accustomed, on a -fine evening, to leave the Fort, in the summer at nine, in the winter at -eight o'clock, and crossing the Plaza, take their station in one of the -streets adjoining, generally the street of Victoria, or, as we named it, -Bond Street, from its being the fashionable one, and filled with shops: -here they would entertain us for an hour or more, and I have been -gratified in hearing many tunes that charmed me in Europe, such as the -overture to _Lodoiska_, &c. Another attraction was the number of girls -that nightly attended: many a lover ("how silvery sweet sound lovers' -tongues by night") has taken this opportunity to address his fair one. -On a moonlight night, I have frequently viewed the countenances and -elegant figures of the sweet creatures, no envious bonnet intercepting; -and now some unmusical being has deprived me of this pleasure--I wish he -would read Lorenzo's observation in the _Merchant of Venice_ upon those -who lack taste in music. - -About four times in the week, however, at eight or nine in the evening, -one of the military bands parade from the Fort to their barracks at the -Retiro, and at times we have heard some good music. On a fine night much -company attend. From constant practice, the regimental musical bands -have become proficients in their art; they perform some fine pieces of -music, including the overture to _Lodoiska_, and the _Polacca_ from the -opera of _The Cabinet_. Braham ever occurs to my memory, when I hear the -latter performed, and the enthusiasm with which a London audience always -hail this song. - -The dresses of the bands are of the Turkish costume, and though not so -splendid as our third regiment of foot-guards, are equal to those of the -line. They have instruments of English manufacture, all that constitutes -a military band--triangle, cymbals, and bells, similar to our first -regiment of Guards. - -In 1820, some English shopkeepers and mechanics, in the excess of their -zeal, determined to form a corps of cavalry, to act as body-guard to the -governor. Twenty or thirty equipped themselves in a light blue jacket, -and nondescript cap, and attended the procession as the life-guards of -the state. The St. George assault, and vulgar exercise of the sword, -made no part of their discipline. Now, whether Englishmen make but a -poor figure when armed in the service of a foreign people, or that -opinion is against it, from Coriolanus downwards, I know not; certain it -is, that this regiment has decreased from its full complement to some -five or six rank and file. - -It was the custom until lately, to fire the fort guns on every 4th of -July, the anniversary of our expedition under Whitelock. If they have -discontinued it to spare us the mortification of being reminded of such -an event, from my very soul I thank them;--it is a subject that makes -the heart ache to think upon. No one can view the houses of Buenos Ayres -without being struck with the impossibility of taking a town by such -a mode of attack as it was our fate to pursue, against an inflamed -population who were, from the highest to the lowest, our enemies. -Well-informed men know that 5 or 6000 troops, with an adequate -artillery, might have taken the town without scarcely entering it, and, -what is more, by proper precautions might have kept it. The Spaniards -had no troops of any consequence to oppose us; and if all the population -of the town had ventured out of their fastnesses to combat us, the -issue would not have been for one moment doubtful; for, as the lamented -General Ross observed, when inquiring of an American friend of mine, his -prisoner, the force near Baltimore, "I ask you, sir, of the regulars; it -may rain militia." - -Our wounded, they tell me, were treated with kindness, especially by the -female part of the population, who had been amongst the most inveterate -of our foes. The heretic Englishman is not looked upon with that horror -now, as it was formerly the fashion to paint him. - -In the Annual Almanack, the following paragraph is tacked to the fatal -4th of July:--"Service in St. Domingo church: thanks to our Senora and -St. Rosario, for the triumph, under their protection, in the year 1807, -in having vanquished 12,000 English who attacked us." With Macbeth, I am -ready to exclaim, "May that pernicious hour stand aye accursed in the -calendar!" - -That such unlooked-for success should have inflated their imaginations -is to be expected; but, in justice to this kind people, I must mention, -that in English company they never in any way allude to the affair. They -are well aware of the disadvantages we had to encounter, and that our -troops were exposed to an absolute massacre. - -I could fill pages with the anecdotes that have been told me of -Beresford, Pack, and other officers; but it is a theme I care not to -dwell upon. - - * * * * * - -GOVERNMENT, and PUBLIC EVENTS.--The government of Buenos Ayres is an -attempt at republicanism, without its simplicity. However, if the people -are contented, we must not quarrel about forms, or expect an Utopia. I -am no particular friend to republics; I have seen and enjoyed so much -real liberty and happiness under the limited monarchy of my own country, -that I can fancy no other form of government better. - -The present governor, Don Gregorio Heras, is a military man: he served -in several campaigns against the Spaniards, and is reported to be a man -of decided character. In his opening speech to the junta, he observed, -that, "being determined to obey the laws himself, he expected every -one else to do the same." Senor Heras is tall and personable, about -forty-five years of age, with rather an expressive countenance. His -title is Governor and Captain-General of the Province of Buenos Ayres. -His prerogatives are very limited. - -The governor, when taking the air in his carriage, has an escort of -two dragoons; when on horseback, he is generally accompanied by his -aides-de-camp. - -Every public officer is allowed a soldier, who acts both as guard and -servant, and is called the _Ordenanza_. The French Engineer cuts a great -figure, with his soldier riding behind him: our humble Quaker prefers -walking.[30] - - [30] One cannot help smiling at the contrast which the two state - engineers of Buenos Ayres present--our Quaker with his broad brim and - plain clothes, and the dashing Frenchman in large cocked hat; the - only point of similarity is in their both wearing large hats, though - differently shaped. Upon the installation of the new governor, the - usual notice was given for public officers to attend the procession in - full uniform; Mr. Bevans did attend--not in military attire, but in - full conventicle dress, as became the man of peace, and looked a - comfortable respectable gentleman. He was seated in a carriage with - a military officer, and, but for that, I could have fancied him a - wealthy miller from Uxbridge, Quaker Town, proceeding to hear the - price of corn. The singularity of Quaker costume attracted much - notice, upon the first arrival of Mr. Bevans: they stared at him in - the streets, but offered no insult; now and then a vagabond boy would - call out "_Lobo!_" Mr. B. is a very good-tempered man. - -Senor Garcia fills the office of secretary of state, having succeeded -Mr. Rivadavia. - -The Junta, or senate, consists of forty-eight members, who are elected -annually: Senor Don Manuel Pinto is the president. The last election -brought in several of the radical party; one or two of whom are the -Humes of the Buenos-Ayres House of Commons. Since the secession of Mr. -Rivadavia, Senor Gomez leads the ministerial side. - -Senor Dorrego, who now distinguishes himself as an opposition speaker, -is a colonel. In 1820, when the town was threatened by some armed -countrymen, called Monteneros, he, on the spur of the moment, collected -porters and carmen, and drove the enemy away, proving himself a dashing -soldier. For a short period he assumed the "imperial purple," until -Rodriguez and his Colorados, in October, 1820, displaced him. - -On the evening of the day on which the election for the members of the -Junta terminates, a military band, with the balloon, or globe, preceding -it, and attended by a crowd of young men, parades through the streets. -The band stops opposite the houses of the members, and performs an air -or two; the mob--if there is such a thing as a mob in Buenos Ayres--all -the time shouting, "Viva la Patria!" "The representatives of the people -for ever!" &c. If the Buenos Ayreans were to see our last day of -an election--the thousands of mobility and patriots, hoarse with -bawling--the banners--the rough music of marrow-bones and cleavers, -tuned from counter-tenor to double bass--the sight, I think, would -astonish, if not frighten them.[31] - - [31] Sir Murray Maxwell, of H.M.S. _Briton_, lying at Monte Video, - honoured us with a visit, in June, 1824. The last time I saw this - veteran seaman, previous to his arrival here, was under a shower of - cabbage stumps, carrots, turnips, mud, &c. upon the hustings at Covent - Garden, when a candidate to represent Westminster. Sir Murray's - unaffected and amiable manners greatly pleased the British in Buenos - Ayres; and the remembrance of his Chinese exploits rendered him an - object of considerable interest. It was a singular coincidence that - the French Admiral, Rosamel, who had been Sir Murray's prisoner, in - the war with France, should, at the same time, be on a visit to Buenos - Ayres. The French admiral, who, in person, looks a complete John Bull, - attended the theatre, with his officers, in full uniform. His is the - nation for effect. Our officers seldom visit the theatre; and when - they do, it is in plain clothes. The French naval uniform appears more - like a military one--the blue coat, buttoned close to the neck, and - tassels. - -The 25th of May, 1810, is the aera of the independence of Buenos Ayres; -the period when, the French armies having overrun Spain, the people -of this city deposed the viceroy, and appointed a junta of nine as -a provisional government. This event is annually commemorated by a -festival of three days. It commences on the evening of the 24th, -when the Plaza is illuminated, by means of a lofty circle, formed of -wood-work, erected round it. At sunrise on the 25th, the national hymn -is sung by boys, &c. opposite the pyramid in the Plaza: to hail the -rising sun is a Peruvian custom. In the day-time, various sports take -place: greased masts are erected, at the summit of which are shawls, -watches, and purses of money; and whoever can reach the top, may take -any one of the above prizes. An English sailor, in 1822, brought down -all the stock in trade, wrapping the shawls about his body, and putting -the watches, money, and other articles, in his pockets and mouth. On his -descent, he was surrounded by soldiers, who took away his booty; and -on Jack making a shew of resistance, they marched him to prison. The -bystanders, however, were indignant at this, and he was soon released, -and allowed to retain one of the prizes. These masts cause great -diversion, as very few succeed in mounting them; and our sailor was -highly applauded. There is also an ingenious machine, called _rompe -cabeza_, or break head, consisting of a pole placed lengthwise on -pivots, elevated from the ground, with a cord on which to rest the feet. -The difficulty is in getting along this pole; in doing which, hundreds -are thrown off: the successful candidate obtains a piece of money. -Military music plays at night in the galleries of the Cabildo; and -fire-balloons and fire-works are let off, the latter emitting their -balls of fire among the people. From the careless manner in which the -fire-works are used by boys in the streets, I am surprised that no -accidents happen. - -The theatre is open every night of the holidays, and is always crowded; -the anthem is sung; and they have extra lights, &c. The governor and his -suite attend. - -In the College church, on the 25th of May, prizes are distributed to -those young females who have excelled in any particular branch of their -studies. The ladies of the town take great interest in this, and attend -the church in crowds. The organ performs during the ceremony, as well as -other music. - -In 1821, the rejoicings went off gloomily, with little or no -preparations. - -The arrangements in May, 1822, were the best that I have seen. The -weather--indeed, every thing combined in its favour. Children of both -sexes, dressed in fanciful costume, danced upon a stage in the Plaza, -and at the theatre, and were drawn through the streets upon ornamental -cars, by persons disguised as lions, tigers, and leopards. The music of -the Plaza dance even now dwells upon my mind, producing remembrances I -can scarcely account for. Its soft and pretty music ought to make it a -standard dance for the 25th May. In this May, of 1822, I was delighted, -and, for the moment, relieved from worldly cares. I strayed, at evening, -about the Plaza: the mimic angels I could almost fancy real; and the -sweet dark-eyed girls that every moment met my eye were, to me, Houris -of Mahomet's Paradise. The illusion was complete: but, alas! like all -other earthly pleasures, it has passed away--would that I could add, as -a "dream slightly remembered." A troop of equestrians rode through the -streets, dressed like Astley's horsemen, and masqued: they proceeded to -the Alameda, and fixing a small ring to a cord in the middle, they each -endeavoured to pull it down at full gallop. - -In 1823, the weather was cold and wet. The Quaker made an effort to -light the Police-Office with gas; it only partially succeeded: the words -_Viva la Patria_ blazed out at intervals. Considering the obstacles, I -am astonished he did so much. - -In 1824, the weather was fine; but, to me, the affair appeared -altogether inferior to 1822. There was no dancing, or Astley's troop; -the fire-works were something better, and were judiciously placed on the -arch, instead of the Cathedral, as heretofore. - -On the 25th of May, the governor and the public officers, with the -dignitaries of the church, walk in state to the Cathedral church, at -which there is a solemn service. - -In 1824, the new governor, Don Gregorio Heras, gave a grand dinner at -the Fort: 120 sat down, including the American minister, the English -consul and two vice-consuls, and many foreigners. The dessert was -superb; not like those we have, but chiefly of sweetmeats; sugar -castles, fortifications, and other designs made up of this latter -article. - -Velarde gave a very comic description of the Fiestas, at the theatre, in -blank verse, in the character of a Gaucho, seated with his companions -round a fire, smoking, to whom he is relating the events of the day, -and, among the rest, of the English sailor climbing the mast like a cat. -This actor displays abilities of no ordinary merit in this style of -acting. - -These four days passed without a single robbery, or even the dread of -such an event. Few cities in Europe can boast as much, with a population -of 60,000 persons. - -It is said, that the diversions of the 25th of May, from the expense, -and uncertainty of the weather, are to be discontinued, or at least -postponed to another part of the year. I hope they are not to be done -away with. Some few hours may surely be taken from the cares of life, -and devoted to enjoyment, in spite of the heartless censure of the few. - -It is not my intention to enter into an historical detail of the -political events that have agitated this country since the declaration -of its independence: they would alone occupy more space than I have -proposed to myself for these Remarks. The notice of a few events, -however, connected with public affairs, since my residence in this -city, and of public men, may not be uninteresting in this place. - -The year 1820, in which I arrived, was remarkable for its frequent -political changes. Scarcely any of the several chiefs, who rapidly -succeeded each other at the head of government, retained their power -more than a few weeks, till Don Martin Rodriguez, at the head of his -Colorados,[32] or Red Men, (so named from the colour of their _ponchos_, -or cloaks), having succeeded in an attack upon the town, put down the -Civicas, or militia, who, although appointed to preserve the peace of -the city, by their frequent insurrections, kept it in a constant state -of agitation. A battle was fought in the streets of the town, and many -lives were lost. He was finally confirmed Governor, on the 6th October, -1820, and continued in office for three years, the period prescribed -by law. Since that time the government has assumed an appearance of -stability, and improvements have taken place in every department of the -administration. - - [32] These Colorados are all cavalry. I saw them drawn up in the - Plaza; and, whilst gazing at the singularity of their appearance, one - of them claimed me a countryman of his. He spoke to me in English, and - told me he had been fourteen years in the country. He was, probably, - one of Beresford's men; many of whom, as well as deserters from - Whitelock's army, are to be found in the province. Some of them, - from having been so long accustomed to the Spanish language, have - absolutely forgotten their own; of this I have known several - instances. - - These British deserters find various employments. Hearing an Irish - cobler, one day, in a miserable stall, bewailing his sad lot, and - regretting that he had left the army; I asked him what army? "By - Jasus," said he, one of "Whitelock's regiment; and if I was in it - now, I should have a comfortable pension by this time."--"Why did you - leave it?"--"They embarked without me."--"Or, in other words, you - deserted."--"By the powers! you have hit it; and a bad day's job I - made of it," said he. - -Don Martin Rodriguez is a tall, well-looking man, and a good soldier. -Without the possession of any very shining abilities, he has done more -for the benefit of the state than any of his predecessors, and retired -from office with the esteem of all parties. He was succeeded by Don -Gregorio Heras, the present governor, in April, 1824. - -During his government, Rodriguez owed much to the able administration -of Don Bernadino Rivadavia, who may be considered the William Pitt of -Buenos Ayres. He entered office, as minister, in 1821, and left it with -Senor Rodriguez; the law requiring that ministers should resign, or be -re-elected, with the new governor. Mr. R. was strenuously entreated to -continue in his situation; but he steadily refused, and his friends -deplored the determination. One of the first acts of his administration -was to annihilate privateering.[33] By him the revenue was simplified -and increased; public plunderers could no longer escape detection; and -his firmness awed the disturbers of public peace, and made the province -respected by foreigners. In the suppression of the monasteries, he -encountered every species of obloquy from a certain class. Now that -passion has in some degree subsided, his opponents, and even the -priesthood, must allow, that he had no other motive but his country's -good; and they cannot deny him the merit of disinterestedness and -unshaken resolution. Strangers of all descriptions are grateful to -him for the protection and attention he has shewn them, and the -encouragement given to their pursuits, which add to the capital and -prosperity of the country. The greatest eulogium that can be bestowed -upon Mr. Rivadavia's government is a comparison of Buenos Ayres in 1821 -and 1824, the periods when he accepted and when he retired from office. -His administration forms an aera in the political annals of the state, -and will rank him as an able--nay, more--an honest minister. His system, -it is said, will be strictly followed by his successors: I trust it may, -for the good of their country. - - [33] A great deal of money was made and lost by speculators, at the - time privateering was allowed in Buenos Ayres. The last vessel that - sailed was the _Heroine_ (formerly the French _Braak_), commanded by a - North American, named Mason, and which was captured by the Portuguese - frigate _Perola_. Mason has been confined at Lisbon, more than two - years. His wife, an English lady, and large family, reside in Buenos - Ayres. - -Mr. Rivadavia was bred to the law. He has been represented to me as a -man of strong passions, with nothing of the courtier in his manners, -which, at times, approach to abruptness. The three years he was in -office have proved that he possesses first rate talents as a statesman. -Political as well as personal enemies every man must expect, in a -situation like his; and though such a consideration might not have -intimidated him from again accepting office, very possibly it might have -had some influence, conceiving, that, as the foundation was laid for a -good system of government, they should not reproach him with clinging to -office for the sake of power and emolument. - -Mr. Rivadavia has visited both France and England in a public capacity, -and has again sailed for Europe, in the _Walsingham_ packet, in part -to superintend the education of his son, who is now, I believe, in the -college of Stonyhurst. He will carry with him a distinguished name; -before, he was in a manner unknown. He speaks a little English, and very -good French. - -In person, Mr. Rivadavia has some peculiarities; and were he much before -the public in London, I fear, he would not long escape the wicked -pencils of our caricaturists: should it be so, he cannot complain; he -will find the king, and the first people in the realm, not spared by -them. His figure is short and thick, with a dark complexion; and he -generally walks with one arm behind him. He wears black clothes, with -tight pantaloons, displaying Herculean limbs. - -As an orator, Mr. Rivadavia is not very imposing; he has a deep sonorous -voice, and is eloquent--but not exactly a Cicero. - -In October, 1820, two persons were shot in the Plaza, near the Fort, -for state offences connected with the revolution of the period--one a -military officer, and the other a drum-major. The former was executed -in a _poncho_, in which disguise he was taken. They were conducted from -the Fort in heavy irons, each holding a small cross, and accompanied -by friars on each side, to whom the criminals eagerly listened. At the -fatal spot their sentence was read: they were placed on seats, and tied; -the priests slowly withdrew, still whispering comfort to the unhappy -men; an officer waved his handkerchief--and they were no more. The band -struck up the tune of "The Downfall of Paris," as the troops marched -past the bodies. A number of females witnessed the appalling sight from -the neighbouring balconies. - -On the night or morning of the 19th March, 1823, an attempt was made at -another revolution, upon the plea that the religion of the country was -in danger. Gregorio Tagle, a lawyer, and a man of some talent, was -the chief of this conspiracy: he had been formerly one of the state -ministers; and, after its failure, he escaped to Colonia. The -disturbance began by some hundreds of Gauchos from the country galloping -into the town, shouting "_Viva la religion!_" &c. &c. They overpowered -the guard at the Cabildo, released the prisoners, and began to toll the -bell; and at that hour (two o'clock in the morning) it did certainly -frighten the town "from its strict propriety." In the Plaza they were -received by a discharge of musquetry from a few troops, who had advanced -out of the Fort, and who, after killing and wounding several, put the -rest to the rout. Garcia, a Colonel, implicated in the plot, was shot a -few days afterwards: he met his fate with firmness. - -This execution was followed by two more, those of Colonel Peralto -and Urien. The latter had been an officer both in the Buenos-Ayrean -and Peruvian services, and now suffered for a participation in the -conspiracy, and a murder committed some years ago. He was in confinement -at the Cabildo, awaiting his sentence for the latter offence, and being -a relation of Mr. Rivadavia, interest was making to save him, when -the conspirators released him. Strict search was made for the escaped -criminal; and in a few days, he surrendered himself, upon a promise of -pardon on condition of his making discoveries of those concerned in the -late conspiracy. Several were arrested upon his depositions; amongst -them, an English shopkeeper named Hargreaves, whom he accused of selling -fire-arms to the rioters at one and two in the morning of the 19th -March. An examination proved that all the accusations were false: the -accused were released, and Urien desired to prepare for death. - -Urien was well known in the coffee-houses of Buenos Ayres; he was much -in debt, and some of his creditors were Englishmen. The murder of which -he was convicted, was committed in conjunction with a female, the wife -of the murdered man, and the body had been cut in pieces, and buried at -different times. Since the murder, he had been in Peru, and had also -lived in Buenos Ayres, unsuspicious of discovery. Having a fine person -and countenance, he was a favourite with the ladies, and a complete "man -upon town." - -The execution of Urien and Colonel Peralto took place between ten and -eleven o'clock in the morning: they were conducted from the Cabildo -prison, ironed, and under a strong guard. They moved slowly along the -Plazas to the appointed spot, near the Fort, where they were both -uncovered, each holding a cross, and attended by priests: the person -of Urien attracted much attention, on account of his tall figure, and -dark expressive countenance. He was dressed in a silk _levita_, or -frock-coat, and walked unsupported, and with great firmness; a smile now -and then appeared upon his face, as he conversed with the priests. He -would have gained universal sympathy, but for his great crimes; as it -was, disgust was mingled with pity, that such a man should be so guilty. -The other wretched man, Peralta, covered with a large great coat, with -his head bound up, and supported by his friends and the priests, seemed -the picture of misery. At the arch which parts the Plazas, the sentence -was read to the prisoners; and again near the fatal place, at which -it was some time ere they arrived, from the slowness with which the -procession moved. Near the Fort, Urien eyed the artillerymen at their -guns, upon the ramparts: his resolution appeared to falter, and he -apparently wished to prolong the time at the place of execution by -conversation with those about him. At length he was seated. His -companion, during this delay, had taken his seat, and, at this last -trying moment, was more composed than Urien. The soldiers fired: Peralta -fell dead; but Urien still kept his seat, appearing only slightly -wounded. The drums, which began to beat, were stopped, and a horrible -scene ensued. Several soldiers placed their musquets at the head of -Urien: they missed fire, one after the other; at last, one exploded, -which, from the report it made, could only have been slightly charged. -The poor wretch fell upon the ground, but was not dead; and he -endeavoured to raise himself up upon his elbow. Other musquets were -discharged, and Urien moved no more. The feelings of the spectators, -during this appalling spectacle, may well be conceived. The hearse and -coffin were in attendance; and, after the troops had passed, the bodies -were placed in them, and taken for interment. A great concourse attended -the execution. Peralta was much pitied, having borne an excellent -character. The ceremony altogether was terrible; and the part in which -the magistrate reads the sentence appears singular to a stranger: a man -repeats every word after him in a loud voice; he is selected, I presume, -for this qualification. - -Jose Miguel Carrera, so conspicuous in the revolutions of this part -of South America, was shot, at Mendoza, in 1821. He was a Chilian by -birth, and belonged to one of the first families there: he was a man of -considerable abilities. The execution of his two brothers, Antonio and -Luis, in that same city, and other political affairs, had made him vow -eternal enmity to the government of Buenos Ayres; particularly to San -Martin, whom he much disliked. In his vengeance, he had raised the -Indians to assist him. This act lost him many of his friends, who -now viewed him with a kind of horror, as chief of barbarians. He was -betrayed into the hands of his enemies, and immediately put to death, -which, it is almost needless to observe, he underwent with courage, and -was buried, it is said, in the same grave with the brothers he so dearly -loved. - -Carrera was in the prime of life, tall, and elegantly formed: his -desperation and courage rank him as one of Lord Byron's heroes, though -not exactly "with one virtue linked to a thousand crimes." His widow -(who has been a fine woman), and infant family, I afterwards saw at -Buenos Ayres. One of the latter, a little girl not five years of age, -was imprudently asked, in my presence, what had become of her father? -"Murdered by the Mendoceans," she quickly replied. - -San Martin, having retired from public life, embarked at Buenos Ayres -for France and England, attended by his daughter. His wife, one of the -daughters of the late Senor Escalada, died a short time since in this -city. San Martin is a tall, stout man, about forty-five years of age: -he is said to be rich. He has his detractors; however, they cannot deny -him one great military qualification, that of a determined mind. In his -dispute with Lord Cochrane, the latter had decidedly the best of the -argument, judging from a pamphlet which his lordship has published. - -The late General Belgrano, a native of this province, and who -distinguished himself in several actions against the Spaniards, has -a day set apart for funereal rites: it takes place in June, the -anniversary of his death. - -In the month of October, 1824, the visit of a New-Zealand chief to -Buenos Ayres, by name Tippahee Cupa, attracted much curiosity; he -arrived in the British ship _Urania_, Captain Reynolds. Tippahee came -alongside this ship in Cook's Straits, with a war canoe filled with -his people, and, in spite of the remonstrances and even force used by -Captain R. refused to quit the vessel, expressing his determination -to proceed to England. He bade his followers an affectionate adieu, -enjoining obedience to his successor during his absence. The _Urania_ -sailed for London with her passenger the 8th December, 1824. - -Tippahee, when he first arrived in Buenos Ayres, was clothed in an old -red coat, formerly belonging to a London postman. The English paid him -many attentions, inviting him to dine at their houses, and new clothing -him. His behaviour at table was easy and unembarrassed; and, when -requested, he would perform the dances and war songs of New Zealand. He -understood a little of the English language, and spoke a few words of -it; his intelligent manners, and circumspect conduct, rendered him an -universal favourite. On the map he could trace the ship's course from -New Zealand to Lima and Buenos Ayres. He knew an Englishman immediately; -the Spaniards he did not much admire, fancying they viewed him with -contempt, and was glad to get among Englishmen. His age is about forty; -he possesses amazing strength; his tattooed face and appearance always -attracted a crowd after him in Buenos Ayres. On board ship he was found -very useful, doing all sorts of work, but he positively declined to go -aloft. The fate of Captain Thompson, and the crew of the British ship -_Boyd_, ought to bespeak caution in using coercion with these savage -chieftains of New Zealand. In Cruise's book of New Zealand, Tippahee was -shewn a picture of a chief of his country, with which he was greatly -delighted. The object of his journey to England is to solicit arms and -ammunition, to place him upon a par with a rival chief, who possesses -those requisites. - -At the dinner given on St. Andrew's day, in December, 1824, by the -Scotch gentlemen, Mr. Parish, the British consul, hinted at the speedy -acknowledgment of the independence of Buenos Ayres by his government. -This intimation was received with great enthusiasm by a numerous -company, among whom were the principal members of government. - -The _Camden_ packet took home the treaty between the British and -Buenos-Ayrean governments, with several passengers, including Mr. -Griffiths, one of the vice-consuls, and Mr. Nunez, a Creolian gentleman, -secretary to Mr. Rivadavia. The _Lord Hobart_ packet took home passenger -Mr. M'Crackan, many years a merchant in this country, and a worthy man. - -Don Carlos Alvear, and Don Felix Castro, have proceeded to England from -Buenos Ayres: the former makes it on his way to the United States of -North America, to which he is appointed minister. Their mission to -London is supposed to have reference to the loan about negotiating. -The security to British capitalists is surely as good, if not better -than in many other cases in which they have lent money. There are no -restrictions upon interest: the average has been 12 per cent.; but this -is decreasing. - -Alvear was formerly a director of Buenos Ayres, and is a very active -man. In the early part of his life, he narrowly escaped destruction, -when going to Spain in one of the Spanish frigates captured, in 1804, by -Captain Graham Moore. The frigate in which he had taken his passage was -one that blew up, and he had only left it prior to the action, to pay a -visit on board another ship: some of his nearest relatives perished in -the explosion. - -Should Alvear harbour any dislike to our country, it may be attributed -to this shocking catastrophe; but, I am persuaded, his good sense has, -long ere this, made him view it as one of the accidents inseparable from -the quarrel of nations. - -At eight o'clock in the evening of the 21st January, 1825, an express -entered Buenos Ayres with news of the battle of Ayacucho, in Peru. -A victory so decisive and unexpected caused a tumult of joy: people -crowded round the coffee-houses, listening to the different orators -describing the victory; it brought to one's recollection the crowds at -the newspaper offices in London, upon similar occasions. At ten o'clock -at night, a triple salute was fired from the Fort, which was answered by -another from the _Aranzazu_ brig of war, anchored in the inner roads, -and a Brazilian brig of war. Partial illuminations and fire-works took -place the same evening. - -On the 22d January, there was a performance at the theatre, when the -national hymn was sung, amidst loud _vivas_ for Bolivar, Sucre, &c.; -and Colonel Ramirez read the official detail to the audience from the -boxes. The theatre was decorated with silks and national emblems, and -illuminated with extra lights: an ode upon the victory was sold at the -doors, and a military band stationed there. - -The rejoicings continued for three nights, with bonfires, illuminations, -and military music in the gallery of the Cabildo; the pyramid in the -Plaza was illuminated, and surrounded by transparencies, &c. The people -seemed mad with joy; I could scarcely have believed them capable of such -enthusiasm; and though, perhaps, these ebullitions are not at all times -to be taken as a test of patriotism, yet I am persuaded, the mass of the -people sincerely rejoiced. - -The Coffee-house de la Victoria was thronged both inside and out; -and wine and beer were drank in profusion. Various toasts were given, -amongst which was "Religious Toleration." There was abundance of -speechifying, describing the past and the future, with the happiness in -reserve for the inhabitants of the province of the Rio de la Plata. Some -hundreds formed themselves into military array, and, with banners and -music, proceeded through the streets, singing the national hymn, and -shouting opposite the houses of known patriots with loud _vivas_. At the -residence of the British Consul they cheered for England, the King of -England, and liberty. At the American minister's, similar compliments -were bestowed on North America. Colonel Forbes invited them inside, -and pledged them in bumpers of wine. During the whole of the night the -assemblage continued in the streets, with music and singing; yet but few -irregularities took place. Some violent spirits declaimed against the -Brazilians, and, it is said, windows were broken at the Brazilian -Consul's house;[34] but this act was quickly discountenanced by the -rest. In fact, they have nothing here which can put one in mind of a -mob, especially an English mob. The bands that paraded the streets were -composed of the most genteel young men of the town. A young man named -Saravia is looked up to as a sort of leader and manager on these popular -occasions; possessing abundance of wit, activity, a tolerable share of -oratory, and staunch patriotism, Saravia plays no insignificant part in -the politics of Buenos Ayres. - - [34] The arrival of a Brazilian frigate _Maria de Gloria_, of - thirty-two guns, Captain Beaurepaire, on 7th March, 1825, caused much - conversation and speculation upon their errand; such as coming to - demand satisfaction for insults offered to their consul, &c. A - burlesque letter appeared in the _Argentina_ newspaper upon the - subject. Considerable animosity exists against the Brazilians, in - consequence of their continuing to occupy the other side of the river. - The frigate departed on 16th March. The officers appeared well-behaved - men. - -Public dinners were given at Faunch's Hotel. Eighty Creolian gentlemen -sat down to an entertainment of this description. The dining-room was -decorated with flags of all nations, portraits of Bolivar, Sucre, &c.; -and military music was in attendance, which played "God save the King!" -upon the King of England's health being proposed.[35] - - [35] It is amusing to hear the opinion which most foreigners entertain - of his majesty George IV. of Great Britain. They fancy him another Don - Giovanni. I was riding with a Portuguese officer, near Colonia, one - evening in December, 1821, when we heard the discharge of minute guns - fired from H.M.S. _Slaney_, in the outer roads of Buenos Ayres, upon - the death of the Queen. I explained to the Portuguese the cause of the - firing: he smiled, and exclaimed, "Is it possible that your libertine - King has ordered a mourning salvo upon such an occasion? surely it - must mean a rejoicing." The people in Colonia, I found, harboured - pretty much the same opinion; so I thought it behoved me, as a good - and loyal subject, to take up the cudgels in defence of his majesty, - of whom I am a great admirer; and I took great pains to impress upon - them, that the chief failings laid to his majesty's charge were - nothing more than those so common with our countrymen, _viz._ a too - enthusiastic devotion at the shrines of Venus and Bacchus. - -Another dinner was given by Don Gregorio Heras, the governor, at the -house of the Consulado, in the same style and splendour, and rivalling -even London itself. The bumper toasts were numerous and appropriate.[36] - - [36] Among the toasts given at one of the banquets held in honour - of the victory of Ayacucho, Mr. Canning's health was drank in the - following terms:--"_El Sabio Ministro de Inglaterra, el primer - Estadista del mundo, el Honorable George Canning, fiel amigo de la - libertad! la justicia preside en sus deliberaciones; su nombre sera - un motivo de placer para nostros, y para las generaciones que nos - sucedan._" Translation: "The learned Minister of England, the first - Statesman in the world, the Honourable George Canning, the faithful - friend of liberty! justice presides in his deliberations; his name - will be an honour to place amongst our's, and the generations which - succeed us." - - Mr. Canning is highly popular in Buenos Ayres, especially with the - Creolian part of the inhabitants: a report that he had resigned - office, created much uneasiness, as he is looked up to as the firmest - friend of South American liberty. The _eclat_ of his ministerial - career throws into the shade the Castlereagh quarrel, and his alleged - desertion of the King in the affair of the Queen. Such appears to be - Mr. Canning's popularity, that his enemies may now "scoff in safety." - -A subscription ball and supper was likewise given by some of the Buenos -Ayrean gentlemen, at the Consulado. English and other foreigners -attended in considerable numbers. The _patio_, or court-yard, covered -by an awning, and brilliantly decorated, was devoted to dancing: the -concourse of ladies was very great, who, by their style of dancing and -charming attire, rendered the scene exceedingly fascinating, upon a par -with any such amusements in Europe. The dancing continued all night, and -until nearly seven o'clock on the Sunday morning, not having any Bishop -of London or sanctified gentry to interfere. Unfortunately, the night -proved intensely hot. The supper table was laid out in the grand saloon. - -The North-American gentlemen resident in Buenos Ayres, on the 23d -February, 1825, gave a similar entertainment at the same building, the -Consulado, in honour of the victory of Ayacucho, and of Washington's -birth-day. Having more time for preparation, and the evening being cool -it was the most superb affair ever seen in this country; and as regarded -effect, it could hardly be surpassed. The awning was arranged in the -form of a dome; and the walls of the court-yard in which the dance was -held were covered with flags: Buenos Ayrean, Peruvian, Chilian, British, -and American, were most conspicuous. The glare of light falling on these -colours, with the sylph-like movements of the ladies mingling in the -dance, made all appear enchantment, realizing the fables of Eastern -romance. "London cannot beat this!" exclaimed a John Bull just arrived -from England, as he entered the scene of festivity: the graceful -attitudes and appearance of the female part of the company evidently -surprised him. The music was of the first description; Masoni and other -professors presiding. It was the first entertainment given in this -country by the North Americans to the Buenos Ayres public; and they -certainly succeeded to the utmost, reflecting the highest honour upon -their liberality and patriotism. It may be said that "all the world" of -Buenos Ayres was there, and they did not separate until seven o'clock -the next morning. The exterior of the Consulado was illuminated, with -the names of _Washington_, _Bolivar_, _Sucre_. - -The substantial part of these different entertainments was superintended -by Faunch, the English hotel keeper, the only man in this country -competent to the undertaking: his arrangements would not disgrace -Messrs. Gunter and Debatt. - -The town was illuminated during the three nights of Carnival. In the -Plaza, the names of the South-American heroes blazed from the "Casa de -Policia." The _rompe cabeza_ (or break head), greased masts, and other -sports, took place; two military bands of music playing alternately. The -weather being fine, added to the pleasure; the streets and Plaza were -filled with people. I viewed the scene as an event, perhaps, never -to occur again--I mean as to such a continuance of enthusiasm and -festivals; and, like Noodle and Doodle, "as we never saw the like -before, 'tis fit we make the most of it." I had, too, my forebodings, -and was not quite so sanguine as to the future moral happiness of the -country: for as population increases, its attendants, crime and misery, -follow. - -The theatre was open the three nights; the national hymn was sung, the -house decorated, &c. The British consul, with his suite, attended on one -of the nights of Carnival; and on the Sunday, went in state from the -Fort to the Cathedral church. All the public officers were in the -train, including the foreign consuls. It was a walking procession; and -Mr. Poussett, the British vice-consul, walked with Mr. Slacum, the -North-American consul. Some forty or fifty years back, who could have -dreamt of such an event--a British consul joining in a procession with a -consul of her colonies, now independent, to celebrate the independence -of another part of the American continent. - -Buenos Ayres illuminations are of a very inferior description, a candle -or two placed in each window; no tasteful transparencies. The house of -Mr. Losana was an exception: he had a transparency of the British and -North American national arms, and an incessant rattling of fire-works -(crackers) from the roof and windows of his mansion. - -On the 24th February, a triumphal car was paraded through the streets, -followed by a piece of artillery, and another car containing arms of -all descriptions, the whole preceded by persons bearing torches, and -military music. The grand car was adorned with flags: the British flag I -did not observe amongst them. When the cavalcade reached the Plaza, it -was overtaken by a Pampero wind, with the usual accompaniment of dust, -obscuring the atmosphere, and obliging shops and windows to be instantly -closed. The London pickpockets, during these squalls would find ample -field for their talents. - -During the rejoicings for the Ayacucho victory, the _Aranzazu_ brig of -war had the flag of old Spain floating under that of Buenos Ayres. - - * * * * * - -CONCLUDING REMARKS.--The great want of this country is population; and -until it is increased by an industrious race, agriculture will remain at -its present low ebb; and they will have no sure defence against distant -enemies, powerful neighbours, and the ravages of the Indians. It would -be advantageous to encourage emigration from the over-peopled countries -of Europe, give them protection and an interest in the country; -then Buenos Ayres may reach those high destinies which her sanguine -politicians pretend to see in perspective; but it is not by simple -talking, that this is to be done. England reached her present greatness -by degrees, and by various sacrifices. I am aware that many in Buenos -Ayres view the influx of strangers with jealousy, and talk very highly -of their powerful means, &c. But, setting aside the old adage, that -"boasters do the least," what could protect them, if an alteration -should take place in European politics, and any one of the states of -Europe, without fear of obstruction, should determine to appropriate -the province of Buenos Ayres to itself? The 150,000 men, women, and -children, that now inhabit it, would stand a miserable chance against -the hordes that would be then let loose upon them. Therefore, an -increase of population, having all the rights of citizens, would be an -increase of power; and, in defence of their property and homes, they -would all join heart and hand to drive the spoilers from their adopted -land. - -If, however, an attack from any European power be considered an event -too distant or improbable to create any apprehension, Buenos Ayres has a -more immediate danger to provide against, from an enemy whose attacks -are neither problematical nor easily to be parried. This province is -unfortunately exposed to the ravages of the Indians, who murder the -inhabitants, and carry off the cattle, spreading desolation and terror -around. They are frequently within a hundred miles of the city, and in -1823 they approached much nearer. They advance in general, from the S. -or S.E. quarter, in bodies of 3, 4, 5, and 600, armed with spear -and lasso. In using the last, they are almost sure to entrap the -unfortunates within their reach. The forces opposed to them appear -inadequate; the horses, unable to endure the hardships of such a -campaign, have not been found equal to those of the Indians; and -as prisoners taken by them seldom meet with mercy, it has inspired -timidity. When likely to be hard pressed, the Indians disperse in all -directions, flying to their inaccessible retreats. The late Governor -Rodriguez headed several expeditions against them, but without any -marked success. - -Four officers of Buenos Ayres, in 1823, were sent with a message to -the Indians, who were detained and murdered. One of them, a Polish -gentleman, named Bullicusque, had been in Napoleon's army, and was much -esteemed. He had some talent at caricature: one which he made of Mr. -Rivadavia attempting to climb the _Rompe Cabeza_, in allusion to the -suppression of the Friars, caused some mirth. - -That any portion of the civilized part of South America should, at -this period, be held in terror by Indians, is a disgrace to Spanish -management, after 350 years of possession. The East Indies, and its -hundred millions of people subject to British sway, present rather a -different spectacle: they are in peace, and under the protection of -the laws; the once powerful Mahratta nation, the Pindarees, and other -warlike tribes having been subdued or conciliated within our time. The -suppression of the predatory Indians about this province is a legacy -left by the Spaniards to their late colonists. - -The Indians of South America are, in persons and countenance, a striking -contrast to those of Africa. They have long black hair, flat faces, -short thick persons, and complexions of the mulatto cast, without any -thing in their countenances to denote ferocity, judging from those I -have seen in the streets of Buenos Ayres as prisoners. They have a -slight clothing, but it is very filthy. The woolly hair and tawny skin -are not seen amongst them. They are much attached to their _caciques_, -or chiefs. - -In the present state of the province, it is a question whether it would -not be sound policy to take into pay 3 or 4000 foreign troops, and, by -placing them in cantonments on the exposed frontiers, awe the Indians, -and give the state a greater respect with other nations. - -Every Buenos Ayrean who really loves his country, will view the arrival -of a settler emigrant amongst them more as a benefit than an injury. - -Some of my countrymen are of opinion, that the acknowledgment of the -independence of Buenos Ayres by the British government will induce many -to emigrate from home, and thus add to the strength, industry, and -capital of this province. I should rejoice at such an occurrence; our -England, Ireland, and Scotland, can well spare from their too numerous -population. - -But, unless a person has some settled object of business, Buenos Ayres -will not prove the most eligible place to speculate upon for employment. - -Clerks, unless they possess strong recommendations, or come expressly -engaged, had better not venture upon the voyage: they will, in all -probability, meet with great disappointment. The mercantile houses -have their clerks sent from the firms at home; little chance in that -capacity, therefore, remains for others. Many have returned to England, -finding that to continue here was only making bad worse. - -It is professions of the first necessity that succeed. Mechanics are -sure of employment, and with prudence can save money. A journeyman -carpenter may earn, by piece-work, four to five dollars per day; their -regular wages from the English masters are from forty to forty-five -and forty-eight dollars per month. Braziers, blacksmiths, &c. do -well: Englishmen have shops in all those branches. Labourers of all -descriptions are in request. - -Farming I do not conceive a profitable concern: labour is high, and the -foreign farmer, from the sort of men he must employ, is continually -exposed to petty thefts, the punishment of which causes great annoyance -and trouble. English labourers generally manage to leave their master -the moment they become useful. Several Englishmen have tried the system -of farming, without much success; it is more adapted to the natives, -and, from what I have heard, they make nothing extraordinary of it. It -is possible that a man with a capital of 800 to 1000_l._ may more than -live; but it ought to be a strong temptation to induce an individual -with that property to leave his country, and to be well assured of the -probable advantages of such an experiment. At the present moment a rapid -fortune is not to be made as a farmer; he must be content to plod on for -years, with great anxiety, and labour to boot. The soil, rich as it is, -requires artificial aid. - -It is in holding _estancias_, or grazing farms, that money has been -made; and from the high price of hides, and the continual demand for -them, this affords every prospect of advantage. - -Emigrants will not find the conveniences they have at home, but as many -comforts as they can possibly expect in a foreign land, including the -favourable climate. - -An English female, upon her first arrival in this country would not find -herself very comfortable; it must take some time to reconcile her to -the loss of home, dress, mode of living--every thing so different; the -only alleviation is in the society of her country folks, and the kind -behaviour of the people, which will soon soften those feelings, and -when somewhat conversant in the language, she would become attached to -Spanish society, from whom she may be assured of receiving the most -delicate attentions that hospitality can prompt. - -A person will not be long in Buenos Ayres without picking up -acquaintances with its inhabitants; amongst whom are some very -intelligent young men. I have sometimes thought it would give me -pleasure to conduct one of them to England, to be--not exactly a Mentor -(needing that myself), but a sort of escort to him in the modern -Babylon, London; to explain its many varieties, from the mansions of the -nobility, down to the _fondas_ of St. Giles's, where plates, knives, and -forks, are chained to the tables, to prevent the customers walking off -with them. - -Common report asserts, that a strong French faction exists in Buenos -Ayres. I will not pretend to offer an opinion upon this. Three years -ago, I thought there was a decided leaning towards France: but I do not -think there is so much now. If it were only for the sake of consistency, -they must be ashamed of French politics, and the war in Spain, -undertaken, as "an experiment to try the fidelity of the French army," -according to Monsieur Chateaubriand, who asserted that a few months -campaigning had done more good for France than years of peace. That a -portion of the inhabitants may be attached to the French, is probable; -their manners and religion assimilate more than ours. An Englishman -is looked upon as a strange creature, different from the rest of the -world. Other nations have not that characteristic of country (excepting -the North Americans): a Frenchman, Italian, &c. mixes in the crowd as -one of the country in which he resides, and is scarcely recognized as a -foreigner; but nature seems to have placed her peculiar mark upon us, -and, in conjunction with our law against expatriation, seems to assert, -that "once an Englishman, always an Englishman." It would appear that -strangers can almost discover us blindfold: often, on the darkest night, -I have been accosted by boys and others as an Englishman. - -The old Spanish part of the population, I dare say, dislike, and can -never forgive us; we are ever the subject of their sneering remarks, and -must expect to be so. That we can act from principles of pure honour, -appears to them impossible; and they affect to trace self-interest at -the bottom of all our professions, particularly as to the proceedings -of the British government toward South America, which have gained us so -much popularity with those states; and given British politics the lead, -which indeed never stood more high in Buenos Ayres than at the present -moment. - -Englishmen are aware that very few like them as a nation, however they -may respect them as individuals; and should our country be once on the -wane, there would be plenty of helping hands to press us further down. -It requires no extraordinary sagacity to account for this animosity. -I am certain, however, we have numerous friends in Buenos Ayres. The -rising generation have, in a manner, grown up with us. Time will wear -away antiquated prejudices, and it will be seen that the calumnies which -have been heaped upon our nation for ages, have not been deserved. Many -fine young Englishmen reside in Buenos Ayres in mercantile and other -employments: this portion associate a great deal with the inhabitants, -with whom they have formed a perfect intimacy. - -I do not expect emigration from England yet, to any great extent. The -English people, in general, have a repugnance to live under foreign -laws, and where the influence of a religion prevails which from -childhood they have been taught to believe is inimical to their own. -But, waving these considerations, they would have little else to -complain of. Here is a rich soil, without any dread of sands and -blights, as at the Cape of Good Hope; and if they cannot amass -a fortune, they are sure to live, and that comfortably. Of the -kind-hearted inhabitants I have already spoken: my countrymen may be -assured, there are no foreigners with whom he will find himself so much -at home as with the Buenos Ayreans. Therefore, I again repeat, that -farmers with a small capital may gain a livelihood--perhaps, more; -labourers are sure of constant employment; and mechanics are ever -in request. The climate is congenial; the government are their sure -protectors; and the people, in spite of every prejudice, esteem our -nation. The age of revolutions, I think, is past; and, during their -utmost violence, strangers were never molested. British vessels from -Liverpool are continually arriving: and the cost of the passage is -moderate. - -Whenever fate conducts me from this country, I shall quit it with regret -for any other place but my native home, and must always feel the most -sincere esteem and gratitude towards the fine and generous people -amongst whom I have so long resided, and where I have enjoyed happiness -I little thought to experience out of Great Britain. I came to Buenos -Ayres somewhat prejudiced, expecting to observe illiberality and -bigotry, in place of the many amiable qualities of which I have found -them possessed; and although I am as complete an home-sick Englishman as -ever quitted his paternal shores, yet such is my attachment to Buenos -Ayres, that I look up to it as my second home, and feel the deepest -interest in its welfare. - - - - -COLONIA DEL SACRAMENTO. - - -I visited Colonia del Sacramento for a short period. It lies east of -Buenos Ayres, distant across the river thirty miles, and may sometimes -be seen from the latter city: when this is the case, it denotes a change -of weather to wind or rain. - -Colonia is fortified both on the land and sea side: heavy guns are -mounted on the lines, and it is capable of making a good defence. It is -now in the possession of the Brazilian government. In December, 1821, -during my abode there, it was occupied by the Portuguese, and 600 -European troops constituted the garrison; they were all light infantry, -and had served in the Peninsular war. I should suppose them a "crack -regiment," for in appearance they fully equalled British troops: the -uniform, brown jackets with black facings, and caps similar to our's. -Most of the officers wore orders for services in Europe. The music -consisted of bugle trumpets. Parade every morning: officers marched -to their guard, colours trooped, and all the evolutions of the parade -in St. James's Park. On Sundays they mustered in their best uniform, -governor attending, for church. I could not but express my admiration, -at the fine order and discipline of the troops, to a Portuguese officer. -He answered, that whatever improvement had taken place, was entirely -owing to British example and instruction; that we had found them a mob, -and transformed them to decent soldiers. It will be long ere Spain can -put forth such troops. - -The officers, in Colonia, were good-looking gentlemanly men, speaking a -little French and English, picked up in campaigning. Many of them had -married, and preferred remaining in the country, when the regiment was -ordered away, turning farmers, cattle dealers, &c. - -The governor (Rodriguez) is a veteran of the Peninsula. Strangers, upon -their arrival, are introduced to him. I found him working in his garden, -at a cottage, near the town: he received me with great civility. How -strangely the Spanish and Portuguese character has been represented -to us at home! I cannot discover that assumption of dignity and pride -attributed to them; on the contrary, they are of very amiable manners. - -In Colonia, the soldiers were much esteemed, and industrious men. A -comparison with those of Buenos Ayres would be invidious. - -The officers must have had a monotonous life, in so dull a place as -Colonia. They were great favourites with the ladies; and, in riding -about the country, visiting, and dancing, whiled away their spare time. - -The soldiers were quartered in different houses: their behaviour -reminded me of the domestic character of our troops; I observed them -nursing children, and busily employed about the house, with nothing of -that swaggering consequence so usual with foreign troops. The Duke of -Wellington discovered and rightly appreciated their merits, which have -brought such renown upon the military annals of Portugal. - -The world are accustomed to speak very slightingly of the Portuguese -character as a nation; and when the deeds in the Peninsula have been -mentioned, it has been said, "they have fought well, because British -bayonets were at their backs." Those same British have done the -Portuguese army the justice their bravery deserves; and the pitiful -sneers of their calumniatos will fall harmless. - -Our saucy sailors, too, in the plenitude of their impudence, must have -their joke at the Portuguese: I remember, upon my first trip to sea, I -was called from the cabin to look at a Portuguese man-of-war, which, -they told me, had just hove in sight: I did look, but no vessel was to -be seen. At last, the sailors pointed out to me a nautilus, with all -sail set, skimming along the water which they asserted, was a Portuguese -ship of the line. - -Colonia has about 800 inhabitants. There are very few good houses: the -greater part may be called huts, and are occupied by a mixture of South -Americans, old Spaniards, Portuguese, and some half-dozen of Englishmen -married to South-American ladies. - -The governor's house is a very ordinary building. The streets are -irregular; and the town altogether presents a most miserable appearance. - -The town cannot afford a tavern; there is only a paltry billiard-room, -in a public house, to which the Portuguese officers resorted. - -The inhabitants of Colonia are very hospitable. I attended a birth-day -feast, at one of their _quintas_; forty persons sat down to a dinner -of beef, fowls, turkey, pastry, &c. The wine went merrily round, under -a continual call for _bompas_ (bumpers); and after dinner, there was -dancing. Some Portuguese officers were present, with their young Spanish -wives. - -At those dinner parties, they have a practice of throwing bits of bread -at each other; and I felt some degree of surprise at first receiving -those bread shots. - -The captain of the port, Mr. Short, is an Englishman, belonging to the -Portuguese navy, and is very attentive to his countrymen, whom business -may call there: the same may be said of Mr. Bridgman, who has been many -years resident in the town. - -Colonia has but little trade. Small craft from Monte Video and Buenos -Ayres, bound up the river to Paysan Lee, &c. and sometimes British and -other vessels call in, to ship produce. A vessel can anchor within a -quarter of a mile from the shore, in 31/2 fathom water. The harbour is -good, considering the bad anchorage of this river. There is a constant -communication overland with Monte Video; the distance is about 150 -miles. To load vessels of any burthen, craft are sent from Buenos Ayres. -There is a dangerous reef near the harbour, on which a British brig (the -_Euxine_) was wrecked, in March, 1824. - -Our ships of war, stationed in the outer roads of Buenos Ayres, send -their boats for brush-wood to the Island of St. Gabriel, near Colonia. -The church is a conspicuous land-mark, and looks very much like an -English country church, in its exterior; the interior has nothing of -splendour to boast--no organ, or decorations; the service is confided to -some poor old priests, who are fast approaching their earthly end. - -If Colonia in itself has nothing attractive, the country around makes -ample amends, being interspersed with small hills, dales, lakes, and -agreeable rides--affording a fine field to the sportsman. The prospect -of the river is uninterrupted, assuming the appearance of a perfect sea. -Here is every facility for bathing: the water is clear and bracing. This -side of the river, in point of scenery, is far beyond the Buenos Ayrean: -an Englishman, however, regards it with almost equal indifference. If -any particular view is pointed out, Sussex, Kent, Devonshire, crowd -upon his thoughts; in comparison with which, the flat coast and few -diminutive hills of this part of South America appear insignificant. - -In the environs of Colonia are many comfortable _quintas_, or -farm-houses. Provisions are dearer than in Buenos Ayres, and the beef -is not so good. - -In the neighbourhood are found the birds called cardinals, from having -a tuft of feathers upon their heads shaped like a cardinal's hat. Their -plumage is pretty; and they sing. Care is required to convey them safe -to Europe. - -The air plant is a singular production of this place; it grows on -bushes, and will thrive in the open air, without the aid of mould. - -I think it possible, a few years hence, that Colonia may start from its -present inferiority, and take a station commensurate with the advantages -it possesses as a port in the river Plate. It was occupied by a division -of our army in 1807. History reminds us of our countryman, Penrose, and -the mishaps he encountered here in 1762. - -Lately, the church and several houses have been damaged, and some lives -lost, by the blowing up of a magazine of gunpowder. - -The occupation of the Banda Oriental by the Portuguese, and now by the -Brazilians, has been the subject of a strong remonstrance from the -government of Buenos Ayres. The original plea of the disturbed state of -the country, and danger thereby to the neighbouring Brazilian provinces, -no longer existing, Don Valentin Gomez[37] was sent to Rio Janeiro, but -returned without accomplishing his object. The Brazilian flag still -waves, and is likely to do so, from the fortresses of Monte Video, -Colonia, Maldonado, and the adjacent country. I am not aware upon -what arguments the Brazilians determine to keep their hold, excepting -possibly that of "might constituting right." Buenos Ayres would seem -its more natural protector. A portion of the inhabitants, it is likely, -prefer that the country should remain under its present masters, -satisfied with the manner in which authority has been exercised, and -dreading revolutions. - - [37] Senor Don Valentin Gomez belongs to the clergy: he has talents - and eloquence, and is withal a handsome man, with a face as rosy as an - English fox-hunter. As he was returning from Rio, in the British brig - _Agenoria_, the brig struck upon the English bank in the river Plate, - on the 11th March, 1824: there were eleven passengers on board. - The captain left the vessel to get assistance, which was promptly - dispatched from Buenos Ayres; but before any thing effectual could be - done, eleven persons had quitted the wreck, on four rafts: one was - picked up by a Portuguese vessel, containing five persons, who, after - enduring great misery, arrived at Rio Janeiro; of the other three - no tidings have since been heard. Those that remained on the wreck, - amongst whom was Mr. Gomez, and Mr. George Brittain, an Englishman, - were preserved: they, too, encountered great privations. This - misfortune caused great anxiety in Buenos Ayres, from the extensive - connections of Senor Gomez, and his secretary, Lucca, a young man of - considerable acquirements, and who was one that perished. The brig of - war, in the outer roads, was ordered to signalize, should she gain - information from vessels arriving; and, on doing so, the Fort fired a - gun, and hoisted a flag; crowds went to the beach. Upon Padre Gomez's - arrival, he was met by relations and friends, the females crying - for joy. The sufferings of the Padre had not blanched the roses in - his cheeks: he came on shore as blooming as ever. Blame has been - attributed to the captain: he had often navigated this river, and, - perhaps, was too confident. A Danish and American ship passed at the - time of the wreck, and have been much censured for not rendering - assistance. - -The old Spanish part of the population bear no particular love to the -Patriots: of the two, it is doubtful which they hate most, the Patriots -or the English. - -Buenos Ayres would find it difficult to dislodge the Brazilians by -force, though there are advocates for this measure. Prudence, I trust, -will guide their resolves; and if injustice has been perpetrated, let -revenge be deferred until it can be securely taken. The separation, -after centuries of fellowship, and falling under foreign dominion, must -be galling. - -If Buenos Ayres held the Banda Oriental, she would be a powerful state, -which it is the policy of the court of Rio de Janeiro to prevent. Its -fortresses, fine climate and country, improving population, influx of -emigrants, under a strong government, would make even the empire of -Brazil to look about them. However, such an event is distant; every -thing leads me to think its present occupants will long keep possession. - - - - -APPENDIX. - - - RULES of the PORT of Buenos Ayres; DUES to be paid by Foreign and - National Vessels; PENALTIES to which those are subject who violate - the Laws of the Police, or who attempt to destroy in any manner - the line of Buoys established on the Ortiz and Chico Banks, Mount - Santiago, and Point Lara, or those which the Government may - hereafter establish on other points of the river for the safety - of navigators. - - -RULES OF THE PORT. - -Article 1. The guard ship, in the inner roads, on observing a vessel -anchor in the outer roads, will hoist a red flag at the mizen mast, as -a signal to the captain of the vessel which has arrived, to proceed -towards the shore in his boat. - -2. The said captain, taking with him his papers, will go on board the -guard ship. - -3. On the arrival of the boat, the commandant of the guard ship will -desire her to anchor astern, and will then hoist a yellow flag, for the -health boat to come and pass the visit. - -4. The commandant of the guard ship must not permit any communication -between his crew and those of the boat, until after the health visit. - -5. The captain will be interrogated by the health and war visit; and if -he does not answer truly, he will be tried by the laws of the country. - -6. If the weather will not permit the health-boat to pass the visit, the -commandant of the guard-ship will wait till they make signals from the -shore. Those signals will generally be, to permit the boat of the vessel -which has arrived to disembark on the quay. If, nevertheless, the -weather be too boisterous, and the boat cannot come on shore, the -commandant of the guard-ship may permit the crew to go on board him, and -then the guard-ship herself will be considered in a state of quarantine, -and must not communicate with any person, be who they may, until after -the health visit has passed. - -7. When the health visit has fulfilled her office, the commandant of -the guard-ship will strike the red and yellow flags, mentioned in the -Articles 1st and 3d. - -8. Having permission to communicate with the shore, captains will -present themselves at the Captain of the Port's office, where they will -fully inform him of the police of the port. - -9. On arriving at the anchorage of Point Lara, captains who wish to -enter the port of Ensenada, will hoist a flag at the mizen-mast, proceed -to the vicinity of the fortress, and there wait the health and war -visit. They are expressly forbidden to communicate with any person, -under the penalties established by the quarantine laws. - -10. Ships of war are an exception; they are not required to conform to -the above articles. - -11. All ships of war, in which the crew may be attacked by a contagious -disorder, will hoist a yellow flag, and be subject to the laws of -quarantine. - - -ANCHORAGE DUES. - -For foreign vessels, by the ton, four reals. - -For national vessels, from foreign parts, two reals. - -The dues mentioned in the two preceding articles must be paid, half on -arrival, and half on the departure of the vessel. - -National and foreign vessels, which neither take nor receive cargo, will -only pay half the dues mentioned above. - -Foreign vessels will pay, besides, on their entry, twelve dollars for -the health visit, and twelve dollars more upon their departure for the -health certificate. - -National vessels only pay half for the visit and the health certificate. - -The charges for pilots are included in the anchorage dues. - - -POLICE OF THE PORT. - -Article 1. Every vessel anchored in the port of Buenos Ayres must -mutually render each other assistance, in case of drifting, or other -risk of average. Those who refuse will be subject to the sentence and -penalties prescribed by law. - -2. In consequence of the little depth of water, it is expressly -enjoined to every vessel anchored in the port to have on its anchors -correspondent buoys, as vessels coming in and going out, not seeing -the buoys, run a risk of striking on the anchors. Those who fail using -precaution in this respect will be responsible for the averages and -losses that may result from it. - -3. Vessels which have not buoys will give notice to the Captain of the -Port, who will send some, with a pilot to place them. The anchor must -not be raised without a permission to that effect. - -4. At the moment of anchoring, the regular pilots will take care to -inform the captains, that they may provide themselves with every thing -necessary for the anchorage of their vessels; and if the pilot discovers -an infraction of this article, he will immediately inform the Captain -of the Port, under the penalty of being himself punished with all the -rigour prescribed by law, as negligence in this respect may cause the -greatest losses and averages. - -5. If, in consequence of bad weather, the anchors and cables of a vessel -fail to hold, and it can be proved that those same cables and anchors -do not correspond with the size of the vessel, or that the cables were -in bad condition, then the said vessel shall be responsible for the -averages that may be occasioned thereby. - -6. Every vessel from foreign parts, who moor themselves in the port, -without asking for a pilot at the Captain of the Port's office, will -be, by this proceeding, responsible for all the averages which may be -occasioned thereby, and will have no right of claim, in case they suffer -damage themselves. - -7. Every vessel anchored, who may have its long boat or boat astern, -and, seeing another vessel under sail, neglects to haul them up out of -the way, not only will forfeit the right to claim in case of average, -but will even be responsible for that which such negligence may -occasion. - -8. It is expressly forbidden to every vessel in the port to throw any -thing into the water, of their ballast, or any other object that does -not float, under the penalties prescribed by law. - -9. It is forbidden to each vessel, under any pretext whatever, except at -the moment of her arrival, to fire salutes, in the inner roads at least, -without having first obtained permission of the Captain of the Port. The -captain of a vessel who infringes upon this article, will be placed at -the disposal of the government. - -10. Boats belonging to vessels anchored in the outer and inner roads -must go on board one hour after sun-set. - -11. All boats found on shore after the evening gun, and until the -morning gun has been fired, will be dismantled, and the crew punished -according to the case and circumstances. - - -PENALTIES TO WHICH THOSE ARE LIABLE WHO DESTROY IN ANY MANNER THE LINE -OF BUOYS ESTABLISHED BY THE GOVERNMENT. - -Article 1. To throw a kedge anchor, or hold on in any manner whatever to -the said buoys, the punishment of the galleys. - -2. Those who take them away, or change their places, unless it be by the -authority of government, will be punished with all the rigour of the -law, even to the penalty of death. - -3. They will punish equally those who make a fire on the said buoys, or -by any other means attempt to destroy them. - -4. Every captain will receive, on his arrival, a copy of these -regulations; the cost of which will be included in the dues of the port. - - -The Government approves the above regulations, orders them to be -printed, and fixes the price of each copy at two reals, to be -distributed according to the tenor of the last article. - - (Signed) HERAS. - By order of the Government, - (Signed) IGNACIO ALVAREZ. - -_Buenos Ayres, July,_ 1824. - - * * * * * - - - INSTRUCTIONS for sailing from the Outer Roads of Buenos Ayres to Monte - Video, by the North and South of the Chico Bank. - -_By the North, or Main Channel._ - -1. From three fathoms in the outer roads, steer E. by S. by the compass, -until Point Santiago of the Ensenada of Barragan bears S.W. by the -compass. Off this point, you will find from 51/2 to 6 fathoms of water, -according to the state of the river. - -2. When the above-mentioned point bears S.W. steer E.N.E. until you make -the Ortiz Bank, which will be when you lessen your water to 3 or 31/2 -fathoms. This bank may be approached, on the South side, without danger, -as the water diminishes gradually. It is a very good guide to navigate -in the night, or in thick weather. - -3. From 3 fathoms on the Ortiz Bank, steer S.E. by the compass, until -you make Point Indio. In this track, you will deepen your water to 5 or -51/2 fathoms, crossing the middle channel, according to the state of the -river. Passing the middle of the channel, the water diminishes -gradually, according as you near the land. - -4. When you think you are about 7, 8, or 9 miles from the land, which -will be in 31/4 or 31/2 fathoms of water, steer E.S.E. and coast it along. - -5. When Point Indio bears S.W. by the compass, steer N.E. by E. until -you see Monte Video, which may be seen about 30 or 33 miles distant from -the top of a common-sized vessel. Keeping your course N.E. by E. you -will continue in 31/2 fathoms of water, until you find yourself 6 or 7 -leagues from Monte Video. - -6. When you find 5 fathoms of water, you will be 9 or 10 miles from the -harbour of Monte Video. - -From the said 5 fathoms to the harbour, it will lessen to 21/2. - - -_By the South of the Chico Bank._ - -1. From 3 fathoms in the outer roads, steer E. by S. as before, until -you have 6 fathoms off Ensenada. - -Before you lose sight of the town of Quilmes, you can see Point Lara, -which is easily known by a grove on the side of the river. - -S.E. of Point Lara, there is a large _ombu_ tree on Mr. Wright's -_stancia_, distant about 21/2 miles. - -E.S.E. of Point Lara is the Point and Mount of Santiago, easily seen at -the distance of 7 miles. - -2. Having passed the bank of Ensenada, which runs out about 5 miles from -Point Lara to the N.E. by N. steer S.E. by compass, until you find -yourself 5 or 6 miles from land. - -3. When 5 or 6 miles from land, steer E.S.E. by compass, to keep along -the shore. - -Before you lose sight of Point Santiago, you will see the _ombu_ tree of -the Balandra to the E.S.E. distant about 14 miles, and is one of those -nearest the river. - -From this _ombu_, the N.W. point of the Chico Bank bears N. 30 deg. E. -Keeping an E.S.E. course, after you have run a short distance, you will -see Point Atalaya, resembling two mounts. Keeping still on the same -course, you will see many _ombu_ trees; and when you have run about -six miles, you will see a large grove of them, where lies the town of -Magdalene. The church of Magdalene is easily discovered, having two -steeples, the largest at the east. - -From this church, the S.W. point of the Chico Bank bears N. 15 deg. E. by -the compass. - -Between the Chico Bank and the land, the least water you find is between -the S.E. point and the coast; when the river is low, you have generally -about 17 feet. - -Having passed the church, you may keep farther from the shore, as you -have likewise passed the Chico Bank; and keeping on your course E.S.E. -you will see four _ombu_ trees, being the last you will see. - -After passing the last _ombu_ trees, the shore is level, with shrubs, -grass, turfs, and junks, until you make Point Indio, about 15 miles -distant. - -Point Indio is low level land, with only one tree on it; and to the S.E. -you can see two large groves of tallow wood and espinillos. - -These mounts are near Point Piedras and Point Indio. - -From Point Indio, the S.E. part of the Ortiz Bank bears N. 30 deg. E. by -compass, distant about 14 miles. - - * * * * * - - - INSTRUCTIONS for sailing from Monte Video to Buenos Ayres, when - passing by the Channels to the North and to the South of the Chico - Bank. - -_By the North side of the Chico Bank._ - -1. Being athwart the points which form the Port of Monte Video, steer to -the S.W. of the compass for the space of thirty miles. - -2. Then change to the W.S.W. of the compass, until you can make out la -Punta del Indio, or Point Indian. - -3. Having made Cape Indian, steer to the W. of the compass, until the -bearing of the said Cape be at S.S.W. distant 7 or 8 miles. - -4. As soon as you have the Cape Indian to the S.S.W. of the compass, -steer to the N.W. in order to make the two first buoys of the Ortiz -Bank, which you will approach at the distance of about one or half a -mile, being cautious to have 15 feet water, in case there should be -little water in the river. - -5. Here, you will change your course to the W. of the compass, taking -care to pass to the distance of the two last buoys, which are to the -N.W. of Chico Bank; for if the river should ebb with rapidity, and there -should be a strong current on the larboard-tack, you would run the risk -to pass too near. Continue to steer to the W. by which means you will -make out Ensenada, and the Point Lara, which last you will recognise by -a tufted tree, called the _ombu_, which is to the S.E. of this point; -and on the brink of the river, before you are out of sight of Point -Lara, you will perceive a small wood of _ombus_, situated on the hill -of the village of Quilmes; afterwards you will see the towers of Buenos -Ayres, and the vessels anchored in the roads, towards which you will -direct yourself. - - -_From Punta del Indio, or Cape Indian, passing to the Southward of the -Chico Bank._ - -_Observation, to know La Punta del Indio, or Cape Indian._--Making -sail to the N.W. at a distance of about 7 or 8 miles from La Punta de -Piedras, or Point Piedras, you observe, to the N.W. of this Point, two -woods of _talas_ (American trees), visible at a distance of about 7 -miles from the said Cape. - -To the N.W. of this wood of _talas_, there is a plain, which extends -about 4 miles. You will perceive then a small wood, or copse, remarkable -by a tree of _tala_, which forms the Point of Cape Indian. - -When you have made the Cape Indian to the S.S.W. distance about 7 to -8 miles, steer to the W.N.W. of the compass; you will discover three -_ombus_ (tufted trees) upon the hills, upon the land of the Magdalene, -distant about one league from the river. Continuing your course, you -will observe six _ombus_, situated in the Village of Magdalene, and -which appear to be on the same line; at the fifth _ombu_ you will -perceive the Church, with its two little towers; that of the E. is -larger than that of the W. Observe, that the first buoy, placed to the -S.E. of the Bank Chico, is to the N. 15 deg. E. of the compass from this -church. - -In making the first _ombu_ S.S.W. of the compass, at a distance from -land of about 6 miles, you will see, with a spy-glass, to the N.W. in -running over the horizon, and of the elevation of an ordinary-size -vessel. When the weather is clear, and a smooth sea, you will see just -5 miles distance, the buoy which is placed upon the Bank Chico, and upon -a bottom of 3 fathoms. To the W.N.W. of this buoy, distance of 3 miles, -there is only 11/2 fathom. In passing one mile to the S. of this same -buoy, you will discover another to the W. 3/4 N.W. distant 4 miles. When -you have passed the second buoy, you can sail without any fear to the -W.N.W. at a distance from land of about 7 or 8 miles; because the Bank -Chico pointed out by the second buoy remains to the N.N.W. of the -compass. - -Passing the two buoys situated to the S.E. of the Bank Chico, and -continuing to sail W.N.W. you will distinguish several _ombus_ situated -upon some hills. When you close in the two small woods of _talas_, upon -the side of the river, then you close in to the Point of the Atalaya, -and arrive to the small wood, or copse of _talas_, you will have passed -the Bank Chico. - -Leaving the copse of _talas_, the coast is very low, and presents small -regions of sand, to a distance of about 6 miles; that which follows, and -which is more raised, is the Forest of Santiago of the Ensenada: to the -end of this Forest, there is three leagues of length; it is the Point, -or Cape de Santiago of Ensenada of Barragan: arrived there, follow the -same directions that have been given in the first course from Monte -Video to Buenos Ayres. - - -_Observations._ - -In the passage from Monte Video to the Southern Coast, the bottom is -bad, as well as in the environs of Cape Indian. - -From Cape Indian, as far as the first _ombu_, situated upon the land of -the Magdalene, you must not anchor nearer than 6 or 7 miles from the -shore, because there is a ridge of rocks, which extends itself to more -than 5 miles, and on which anchors will not hold. - - -_Variation of Depth of Water from Monte Video to Buenos Ayres, between -the Banks Ortiz and Chico._ - -Leaving Monte Video, having the Cape to the S.W. you will find 21/2 or 3 -fathoms of water; at 9 miles, you will find 5 fathoms; at 18 miles from -thence, you will not find more than 31/2 fathoms; at 30 miles farther, you -will have a quarter of a fathom less; proceed 33 miles farther, and the -sounding lead will give you once more 31/2 fathoms; in short you will find -the same depth of 31/2 fathoms, until you find yourself within six miles -of the Southern Coast. - -From Cape Indian, with the 31/2 fathoms, steering to N.W. towards the Bank -Ortiz, the sounding lead will give you from 41/2 to 5 fathoms, according -as the river flows or ebbs; when you do not find more than 3 fathoms, -then you will be on the brink of the Bank Ortiz. - -From the 3 fathoms from the brink of the Bank Ortiz, steer to the W. -towards Buenos Ayres; your soundings will increase progressively from 51/2 -to 6 fathoms, according as the river is either low or high. - -At the commencement of the 6 fathoms, you will make the Point of -Santiago of Ensenada to the S.W. of the compass. - -This same depth of water continues, until you find yourself N. & S. with -the Point or Cape Lara. Keep always steering to the W. of the compass, -as before mentioned, and the soundings will diminish to 3 fathoms. If, -during this passage, the river ebbed, you would have 3 fathoms from the -Village des Quilmes. - -By the course, and the differences of soundings above-mentioned, you -will be able to navigate by night, or when the weather will not permit -you to make out the marks. - -Between the two Buoys which are placed to the N.W. of the Bank Chico and -Ortiz, you will find 51/2 and 6 fathoms, according as the river is high or -low. - -Between the Banks Chico and Ortiz, the anchorage is good, and the -anchors hold tolerably well. - -In the environs of the Bank Ortiz, vessels are less subject to part from -their anchors, because the bottom is mud and sand. - -From the Cape Indian to Buenos Ayres, the currents flow from the E.S.E. -to the W.N.W.; their rapidity is much about from 11/2 to 2 miles an hour. - -In tacking, when the wind is contrary, a great deal of way can be made -by means of the currents. - -From the S.E. extremity of the Bank Ortiz, to the S.E. extremity of -the Bank Chico, as you gradually proceed up the river, you will find -yourself nearer the Bank Ortiz than the land; you will keep taking from -3 fathoms along the chain of rocks which run along the coast, until 3 -short fathoms on the side of the Bank Ortiz. Observe, that during this -tack, when you find yourself in 4 or 41/2 fathoms, you are then nearer the -bank than the land. - -Having doubled the Bank Ortiz, you can safely proceed until you have 3 -fathoms of water; for the depth diminishes gradually. - -In tacking about between the Bank Chico and Ortiz, you can, as before -said, run your tacks upon all the points of the Bank Ortiz as long as -you are in 3 fathoms water. But in the tacks which you run upon the Bank -Chico, you must put about ship as soon as the sounding line does not -give you more than 4 fathoms, because this bank is full of pointed -rocks, particularly at the place where the second buoy is placed, upon -the point from the N.W. to the S.E.; it is also equally rocky from the -first buoy to the S.E. as far as three miles to the W.N.W. because on -the two points you find no more than 11/2 fathom water. - - * * * * * - - -POSITIONS of the TEN BUOYS placed on different Banks in the River Plate. - -_Upon the Bank Chico there are Four Red Buoys._ - -1st. Is placed at the S.E. extremity of the Bank Chico, on a bottom of 3 -fathoms. From this Point, you make the Magdalene Church at the S. 15 deg. W. -of the compass. - -2d. Is placed at the S. extremity of the Bank, on a bottom of 3 fathoms. -It is situated at the W. 1/4 N.W. of the first, distant 4 miles: you make -the Church, at 15 deg. E. - -3d. Is situated to the N. 1/4 N.W. of the second, distant 4 miles, upon a -bottom of 11/2 fathom; it is in the middle of the Bank. You make the Point -of Atalaya to the S.W. of the compass. - -4th. Is placed at the N.W. extremity of the Bank, on a bottom of 3 -fathoms, to the W.N.W. of the third, distant 4 miles. You make the Point -of Atalaya to the S. 24 deg. W. of the compass, distant 101/2 miles. - - -_Upon the Bank Ortiz are placed Four Black Buoys._ - -1st. Is at the S.E. extremity of the Bank Ortiz, on a bottom of 3 -fathoms. From the buoy, you make Cape Indian to the S.W. 1/4 S. of the -compass: you will, at the same time, see, from the deck of a vessel of -an ordinary size, and on a clear day, the buoy, and the coast of Cape -Indian. - -2d. Is at the S. extremity of the Bank Ortiz, on a bottom of 3 fathoms, -and to the N.N.E. of the buoy of the S.E. of the Bank Chico. - -3d. Is placed upon the side of the Bank Ortiz, on a bottom of 3 fathoms, -to the N.N.E. of the middle of the Bank Chico. - -4th. Finds itself upon the Bank Ortiz, by 3 fathoms, and to the N. of -the one of the N.W. of the Bank Chico. - - -_To the Ensenada de Barragan, on the Banks of Santiago and Lara, are -placed Two Black Buoys._ - -1st. Black Buoy is upon the Bank of Santiago, in 3 fathoms: the bearing -of this buoy has the Point of the Santiago to the S. 28 deg. E. and Point -Lara to the S. 53 deg. W. of the compass. - -2nd. Black Buoy is placed upon the Bank Lara, on a bottom of two -fathoms, on the bearing of Point Lara to the S.E. 1/4 S. and the Point -of Santiago to the S. 63 deg. E. - -These two buoys are placed to warn Navigators to pass to the Northward. - - -_Observations._ - -The Bank Chico is not parallel with the S. coast, because, from the -first buoy of S.E. you take the bearing of the third buoy to the N. 42 deg. -W. of the compass. This bank is nine miles in length. - -This Bank forms to the N. a pretty considerable bay; it extends itself -from the buoy of the S.E. to a distance of 4 miles to the N.W. In the -middle of this bay, you have 31/2 fathoms; but in steering to the S.S.W. -of the compass, at a distance of 150 fathoms, you will only find 11/2 -fathom. - -In the S. part, this bank forms another bay; it extends itself from the -buoy of the N.W. as far as that of the Point of the S. in the direction -of the S.E. 1/4 S. distance about 6 miles; and in all this bay, in -following the edge of the bank, there is 31/2 fathom water. - - - - -THE END. - - -Printed by R. Macdonald, 30, Great Sutton Street, Clerkenwell, London. - - - * * * * * - - - Transcriber's Note: Some page numbers listed in the Table of Contents - have been changed to more accurately denote the appropriate page. No - attempt has been made to standardize spelling inconsistencies within - this text. However, a few printing errors have been amended and noted - within the following table. - - Page | Original Word | Amended Word - -----+---------------+------------- - vii | Processsion | Procession - 11 | Saliors | Sailors - 20 | Dominician | Dominican - 38 | subscriber. | subscriber.[9] - 48 | bilghted | blighted - 130 | musc | music - 139 | Gregogorio | Gregorio - 163 | orignal | original - - - - - -End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of A Five Years' Residence in Buenos Ayres, by -George Thomas Love - -*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK FIVE YEARS IN BUENOS AYRES *** - -***** This file should be named 42482.txt or 42482.zip ***** -This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: - http://www.gutenberg.org/4/2/4/8/42482/ - -Produced by Rene Anderson Benitz, Adrian Mastronardi, and -the Online Distributed Proofreading Team at -http://www.pgdp.net - - -Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions -will be renamed. - -Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no -one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation -(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without -permission and without paying copyright royalties. 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