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diff --git a/42278-0.txt b/42278-0.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..9944af7 --- /dev/null +++ b/42278-0.txt @@ -0,0 +1,1914 @@ +*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 42278 *** + +Note: Project Gutenberg also has an HTML version of this + file which includes the original illustrations. + See 42278-h.htm or 42278-h.zip: + (http://www.gutenberg.org/files/42278/42278-h/42278-h.htm) + or + (http://www.gutenberg.org/files/42278/42278-h.zip) + + + Images of the original pages are available through + Internet Archive. See + https://archive.org/details/toymakingathomeh00adamiala + + + + + +TOY-MAKING AT HOME + +How to Make a Hundred Toys from Odds and Ends + +by + +MORLEY ADAMS + + + + + + + +New York +Frederick A. Stokes Company +Publishers + +Printed in Great Britain. + + + + +PREFACE + + +This work has been compiled with the assistance of Mr. Walter Higgins, +the well-known instructor in woodwork. + +The volume fulfils a long-felt want in that it supplies fascinating +amusement for evenings at home. The making of toys is an engrossing +pastime, and the home-made toy is invariably more novel than the +shop-bought article and of superior quality, besides which there is +always a satisfaction in "I made it myself." + +The purpose of the book is to give simple and easily understood +instructions and plain diagrams and sketches for making toys from the +odds and ends that are usually discarded as useless. Matches, Match +Boxes, Cotton Reels, Cocoa Tins, Cigar Boxes, and even Egg Shells +comprise the materials from which are evolved Shops, Working Models, +Dolls' Furniture, Boats, Steam Engines, Windmills, and scores of other +toys dear to the hearts of boys and girls. + +Perhaps the chief charm of the occupation is that literally dozens of +toys can be made at a cost of less than a penny. Every toy described in +this book is practicable, and can be easily made by anyone possessing +the smallest amount of handicraft skill. At the same time the +instructions are such as will prove of the utmost value to instructors +of handicraft classes. + + MORLEY ADAMS. + + + + +TOY-MAKING AT HOME + + + + +TOYS FROM ODDS AND ENDS + + +In every household there are countless things which are thrown away +immediately they have served one purpose. Cotton-reels may be taken as +an instance. It does not occur to the majority of people that these +little wooden articles, strongly made and well finished, may be put to +some use, even when the cotton has been wound from them. Yet from them +quite useful furniture can be made and playthings innumerable. And +so it is with many other things--match boxes, broken clothes pegs, +cocoa tins, mustard tins, egg shells, cigar boxes, nut shells, corks, +incandescent-mantle cases, old broom handles: there is no end to the +list. + +In the following pages we have set out to explain, largely to boys and +girls, just how these odds and ends may be used for the construction of +toys, games, and interesting models. The list is not by any means +complete: such examples as are given are merely suggestive examples. The +boy or girl who has patiently and thoughtfully made some of them will be +in a position to devise and construct many more on similar lines. + + +Most boys and girls are familiar with those little _paper windmills_, +which turn round gaily in the gentlest breeze--the ones which the +rag-and-bone man gives in exchange for an old bottle. They make a +capital toy for baby brothers and sisters, and they are very easy to +make. All you need is a six-inch square of stiff paper--coloured for +preference--and two pieces of cardboard, each an inch square. First, you +draw out your square as in Fig. 1, and then cut down the diagonals +nearly to the centre square. Now take hold of a corner, and fold it over +to the centre. Secure it there with a small dab of glue. Serve each of +the other corners in turn in similar fashion. Now glue on your two +cardboard squares--one at the centre of the back and the other in the +front, covering the folded corners (Fig. 2). All you need now is a stout +pin to push through the centre of the cards into the end of a stick. + +[Illustration: FIG. 1.] + +[Illustration: FIG. 2.] + +Now if you nail two strips of wood in the form of a cross, and pin on +four or five differently coloured wheels, you will have a jolly little +toy for which baby will thank you (Fig. 3). + +[Illustration: FIG. 3.] + +_N.B._--We shall frequently mention the word "glue" in the course of +this little volume: therefore we had better explain just what we mean. +Unless we state definitely otherwise, we refer to the prepared glue sold +in tubes under various names--"Seccotine," "Le Page's Liquid Glue" and +so on. These adhesives are admirable for all light work. They act best +when put on thinly, and allowed partially to dry before the parts are +pressed together. + + +A very interesting little toy, which you can make in a few minutes, is +the + +_Colour Wheel._--Take a piece of white cardboard, and from it cut a +circle about 3 inches across. Now from the middle of this cut another +circle about 3/4 in. across. This can be done quite easily by putting a +sharp-pointed knife blade into the compass in place of a pencil. + +Divide the circle into seven equal parts, and paint or crayon the +sections with the colours of the rainbow--red, orange, yellow, green, +blue, indigo, violet. + +When this is dry, make a large loop of string and put it through the +round hole of the card; and hold the ends of the loop one in each hand. +Now if you turn the string at one end as if you were turning a skipping +rope, and then suddenly pull it tight, your card will revolve very +rapidly, and you will find that instead of a coloured card you have what +appears to be a light grey one. This is really a little piece of +science, for it shows that the white light about us is really made up of +the different colours of the rainbow (Fig. 4). + +[Illustration: FIG. 4.] + + +_A simple Counting Top._--Take a piece of cardboard, and on it draw two +hexagons having 1-inch sides. To draw a hexagon, first draw a circle +with its radius equal to the length of the side of the hexagon. Then +without altering the compass measure off the radius six times round the +circumference, and join the neighbouring points. Now cut out each of +these and from each one cut out one triangular section (Fig. 5). Scratch +lightly along the other lines with the back of the knife-point. Now bend +these so as to form two five-sided pyramids. Close up the open space by +binding the edges together with a strip of gummed paper (Fig. 6). When +you have done this, place the two pyramids base to base, and secure them +by means of small strips of gummed paper fixed along the edges. Bind all +the edges in similar fashion for the sake of uniformity. All that is +necessary now is to make a hole at the apex of each pyramid, and push an +ordinary safety match through (Fig. 7). Now if you twirl the match in +your fingers, and release it suddenly, the top will spin for quite a +long time. To use it as a "counting top" or "dice top" paint the numbers +1 to 5 on the five triangular surfaces of the upper pyramid. Then when +the top ceases spinning, the uppermost number is the one which counts. + +[Illustration: FIG. 5.] + +[Illustration: FIG. 6.] + +[Illustration: FIG. 7.] + + +_Tents for Toy Soldiers._--Boys who play with lead soldiers often find +that, in making up a game, they require some tents for the camp. These +are quite easily made either from paper or from calico. Their size will +depend, of course, upon the size of the soldiers; and it will be quite +easy to construct them to measure two or three times the measurements +given here. Here is a picture of one (Fig. 8). + +[Illustration: FIG. 8.] + +First cut out a cardboard circle for the base of the tents, say 2 in. +radius. Now for the sloping canvas sides--the conical part, that +is--draw out another circle, this time with a radius of 4 in. Only a +part of this will be used; and to know just how much, roll the base +circle round the circumference of the larger circle until it has +completed one of its own revolutions (see Fig. 9). In cutting this out, +one or two tongues should be left jutting out from the circumference: +these fold over the edge of the base circle and secure the sloping sides +in position. All we need now is a thin stick, about 4 in. long, to act +as a centre pole. This should be glued to the centre of the base, and +should have the sloping sides glued around it. A little paper flag at +the top will complete the little structure. + +[Illustration: FIG. 9.] + + +Most boys, and not a few girls, love to play at "soldiers" and there is +no reason why each boy should not make himself a complete suit of +armour, so that the game may be more real. + +_The Helmet._--With care this is not at all difficult to make: what +difficulty there is lies in the adjustment and the size. First it is +necessary to find out the distance round the head. This can be done +with a piece of string; or, better still, with a linen inch-tape. +Suppose the distance round is 21 in.: then the helmet can be made in +seven sections, each 3 in. wide at the base. When these are brought +together, they converge at the top to form a typical Norman headpiece +(Fig. 10). + +[Illustration: FIG. 10.] + +Using stiff paper, cut the seven sections as in Fig. 11. These should be +glued together, so that the connecting flanges are inside. (_N.B._--In +doing this, it is very necessary to let the glue get nearly dry before +pressing the pieces together: if it is quite fresh, the strain will pull +the pieces apart.) Then at the apex of the sections glue on a circular +piece of cardboard, about 1-1/2 in. across. For the ring at the base, +cut a strip, just about 22 in. long, and having ornamented it in any +fashion you please, glue the two ends together so as to form a circlet +which will just go round the sections. Fix this to the seven sections +with dabs of glue. + +[Illustration: FIG. 11.] + +All that is necessary now is a coating of aluminium paint to give just +that real dull metallic appearance. If this paint is not available, you +can cover with silver paper, but this is not nearly as effective. + + +_The Breastplate._--While there is really less to do, and fewer sections +to adjust, this presents quite as much difficulty as the helmet. It is +best made in two sections. The exact shape can only be decided by trial: +roughly, it is that shown in Fig. 12. The best method of procedure is to +cut out two of these in newspaper, and fix them together with doll-pins, +and then try them on in much the same way as a tailor fits a +waist-coat--altering pins and cutting out shapes until the requisite fit +is obtained. When this is done the two final sections can be cut out in +cardboard (not omitting flanges), glued together and painted. If you are +good at painting, you can ornament the two sides with a heraldic device +in crimson or gold. + +[Illustration: FIG. 12.] + +To fix it, when wearing, strings are used. Small holes are bored at the +four ends (and eyelets fixed in, if you can do so) and knotted strings +passed through. Tie the bottom pair across the back with a knot (not a +"grannie"). Now take one of the ends of this, and tie it with a string +from one of the shoulder pieces. If the other shoulder piece be tied in +similar fashion to the other back string, then the breastplate will be +held correctly in position. The strings and all the back gear will be +covered by the cloak and mantle, similar to that which knights in olden +days wore over their armour. + +Before you put the breastplate on you can tie a towel or apron to come +just to the knees: this will take the place of the "surcoat" (and serve +to hide your knickers). + +For "greaves" or leg-armour you can cut out and paint cardboard shapes, +like those shown in Fig. 13. These, when fixed with string, look quite +well. + +[Illustration: FIG. 13.] + + +While we are talking of soldiers, we may as well give details of + +_A War Game._--Most boys are familiar with the game known as +"Tiddley-winks," in which the object is to make small bone counters hop +into a cup by pressing their edges with a large bone counter. + +These materials can be used for a very interesting war game, consisting +of the siege of a fort. The fort is simply a front elevation, similar to +that shown in Fig. 14. This is drawn out in pencil on a piece of stout +cardboard (or fretwood) and coloured in with paints or crayons. The +windows are then cut out; and the whole thing made to stand upright by +the addition of two or three triangular supports (Fig. 15). These are +hinged on to the back by means of strong tape or canvas, so that the +whole thing can pack up flat. + +[Illustration: FIG. 14.] + +Each player in turn places his small counters (generally six) anywhere +in front of the fortress. He is now the attacking party, and his object +is to shoot his counters through the different windows. If he succeeds +in sending a counter through a window, then he "kills" that number of +the enemy. The winner may be either the person who secures the greatest +number of "kills" in a certain number of attempts--twenty-four, for +instance--or the person who first succeeds in scoring say 50 "kills." +Any shot missing the fort entirely--_i.e._ going right over or missing +at the sides--is a wasted shot, and counts one off the player's score. + +[Illustration: FIG. 15.] + + +We propose to describe how to construct a simple + +_Toy Cannon_--one quite easily made at a negligible cost and yet quite +effective. The only extra cost will be that of a piece of strong +elastic: the remainder being made of such things as cigar-or +chocolate-box wood. Fig. 16 shows the finished article; and a careful +study of this illustration will make clear much of the method of +manufacture. + +[Illustration: FIG. 16.] + +We commence with the stand. This is quite simple, being composed of five +pieces of cigar-box wood, a rectangular base, two sides cut as shown, +and two small end-pieces to give the sides stability. The measurements +you can decide for yourself: we suggest a base 5 in. long and 2 in. +wide, and side about 2-1/2 or 3 in. high, as being suitable to the +thickness of cigar-box wood. + +The cannon itself is not very difficult, if made square instead of +cylindrical. The barrel is composed of four pieces of thin wood glued +together as shown in Fig. 17. The pieces are about 6 in. long, and are +cut and fitted to such a width as will leave a square hole in which the +rod can move easily. On the under side of this barrel are fixed two +pieces of wood--one about 1-1/2 in. long and 3/4 in. wide at the end +near the mouth: to this the elastic will be fixed. The other, a piece +about 1-1/4 in. long and square in section, is fixed about midway along +the barrel, and will act as an axle on which the cannon can swing. + +[Illustration: FIG. 17.] + +The rod by which the shot is ejected should be square in section, and +about 5 in. long. At the rear end of it should be fixed two side-pieces +to act as stops to prevent the elastic forcing the rod too far into the +barrel. A nail driven through these two pieces will prevent the elastic +slipping out each time the cannon is fired (Fig. 18). + +[Illustration: FIG. 18.] + +All that remains now is the fixing of the elastic. It should be slipped +through the slot at the end of the rod, and the two ends fixed as shown +in the first illustration. + +If desired, this cannon can be used in connection with the skittles as +described on page 30, and in fact the pegs can be quite easily carved +into the similitude of soldiers and used for the game. It can also find +a place in the "cokernut shy" described on page 31. + + +Have you ever tried + +_Making Pictures with Matches?_--This is a very interesting occupation, +and one which will fully test your ingenuity and your patience. Instead +of using lines drawn with a crayon to suggest a certain object, you +replace these lines with match sticks, bent and straight, and so obtain +nearly the same effect. You can start with the plain outline of some +simple object such as a sailing boat or a truck or a house, and you can +then proceed to more difficult shapes, learning how to suggest masses of +shadow by placing match sticks closely together. + +In actual practice, you get a large sheet of brown paper, and move the +matches about until the right position is obtained: then you fix the +matches to the paper one by one by means of a dab of glue. In time you +will astonish everybody (yourself included) by the ease with which you +can build up really intricate pictures. Specimens accurately done and +tastefully mounted make very acceptable little presents (Fig. 19). + +[Illustration: FIG. 19.] + + +Deft fingers and a big fund of patience render it quite possible to +construct + +_Models from Match Sticks_, with the aid of just one or two accessories +such as paper and glue. Placed side by side, and glued to each other, +and to a cardboard or paper foundation, matches (particularly the larger +sort) give quite an impression of solidity--which you will notice if you +refer to the picture of the cupboard given in Fig. 20. In this a +cardboard foundation is made according to Fig. 21, and the matches cut +to the correct lengths and glued into position. In making the +foundation, draw out carefully as shown, cut through the plain lines, +and scratch along the dotted lines. Then bend into shape, and secure by +means of strips of gummed tape or paper. + +[Illustration: FIG. 20.] + +[Illustration: FIG. 21.] + +To suggest the panel in the door, glue matches round the outside edges +as shown, and leave the cardboard showing in the centre. If you want the +door to open outwards, you will have to bevel the edges of the two +matches where the cupboard bends, because, by the nature of the model, +the hinge (that is, the cardboard itself) is on the inside. + +In similar fashion you can make countless little objects--all varieties +of dolls' furniture and fittings, money boxes, trinket cases, &c. If the +matches are stained with bright colours, and tastefully arranged, and +the whole varnished, some splendid effects can be obtained. + + +Talking thus of matches leads us to the description of another model in +connection with the same articles. This is a + +_Novel Match Striker._--Any article which is useful makes a desirable +present, especially if it has about it a certain amount of novelty. For +instance, a match holder makes a nice little gift, and is generally +appreciated. If, however, it is of a type which the recipient has never +seen, it will be doubly welcome. + +One rather novel match holder and striker can be made in the following +way. Obtain a funny picture--for preference, one that has a large figure +in the foreground. Fig. 22 shows the type of picture we mean. Glue this +on to a piece of stout cardboard. Suppose the picture shows a man's +head. Then let his beard act as the striker. To secure this, cut out a +piece of fine sandpaper, exactly the shape of the man's beard (or +whatever it may be), and glue it into position on the picture. Then at +the side glue on a little holder for the matches. This can be made of +cardboard specially, or an ordinary match-box cover can have the bottom +stopped, and be glued on. As far as possible this should be a part of +the picture. + +[Illustration: FIG. 22.] + +All sorts of pictures can be done in this fashion: dogs, with strikers +on the tail; pigs, with strikers on the back; elephants; grotesque men, +&c. + +If you like you can glue the picture on to fretwood, and cut out the +figure or a part of it, and arrange it, so that it will stand upright on +a wooden base. This will tax your own ingenuity. + +There is in every house one thing out of which the enterprising boy or +girl can make any number of models and toys: that is the empty match +box. Its shape and formation lend themselves to the construction of all +sorts of things--houses, trams, dolls' furniture, &c. &c.--the only +other requisites being a sharp knife, a ruler, one or two pieces of +cardboard (or better still, thin pine veneer), a number of large matches +(or better still, match stales).[1] + + [1] These match "stales," which are very useful in toy-making, + can be purchased from Byrant & May, Fairfield Works, Bow, + London, E., at 1s. per bundle of 1500. The pine veneer costs 1s. + 6d. per dozen pieces, each 3 ft. 6 in. long. + + +You can start with the simplest form of + +_Railway Truck_, consisting merely of the inner part, or tray of a match +box, with two match-stick axles glued across the bottom, and four +cardboard wheels secured in position by means of "doll pins" (Fig. 23); +and then you can proceed to the most elaborate vehicles, bridges, +buildings, furniture, machines, &c. + +[Illustration: FIG. 23.] + + +To give an idea of the method, we show how to put together a small +overhead + +_Tram Car._--In the first place you want two pieces of veneer or +cardboard, measuring 11-1/4 by 4-3/4 in. and 11-1/4 by 5 in.--to act +respectively as the lower and upper decks. The actual method of +construction can best be understood by a careful study of Fig. 24. The +lower deck rests on four cardboard wheels. These are fixed by means of +doll pins to two wooden axles (match stales) glued right across the +under side of the lower deck. On this the structure is built up with +match boxes. Three covers are placed lengthways along each side and +glued into position. Then above these come five match trays, which, when +standing up, take up just the same space. These are glued into position, +facing outwards, and projecting about 1/4 in. beyond the under covers. + +[Illustration: FIG. 24.] + +Across the top of the two sides so formed is glued the second sheet of +veneer or cardboard, 11-1/4 by 5 in., to form the upper deck. Five +covers placed end to end exactly make up a side for this, and one at +each end completes the superstructure. Two covers, placed end to end, +make a suitable back and front for the lower deck, while two pieces of +veneer, 3-3/4 by 4-1/2 in., effectively close up the inside of the car. + +The trolley pole is provided by a wooden skewer, glued to the lower +deck, and passing through a hole in the centre of the upper. That +completes the tram for all practical purposes. If you desire to make +your model more elaborate, you can construct a cardboard or wooden +stairway at each end, connecting the upper and lower decks; and you can +replace the sheets of veneer at each end of the inside by properly +constructed doorways; and so on. + + +Another excellent toy, constructed with match boxes--and one very much +appreciated by little brothers and sisters--is the + +_Model Stores._--Once again this will be best understood by reference to +the illustration (Fig. 25). The stores consist of a counter and a back +fitment--the two mounted on a base board. For the counter, five +complete match boxes should be glued side by side and then mounted on +six empty covers. The trays of the five complete boxes should then be +given handles to make them into drawers. For these handles nothing can +beat a boot button. The small metal loop is pushed through a hole in the +end of the tray, and then secured in position by means of a tiny wooden +wedge pushed through the loop on the inside. + +[Illustration: FIG. 25.] + +The back fitment consists of a block of twenty covers, five in a row, +and four rows deep. These are glued into position. The two lower rows +are deprived of their trays to make storage partitions, and the two +upper are fitted with handles as above. Surmounting this block is an +upper fitment consisting of five trays glued together so as to stand +upright at the back of the block, leaving a free shelf in front (as in +most grocers' shops). Finally there is a row of three trays placed +endways on the top of the five just mentioned. + +For "playing at shops" a little model like this is invaluable. + + +_A Red-Cross Cart._--For this a large empty match tray is required. +Across the under side a short length of match stale is glued, to act as +an axle for the two wheels. These can be cut from either veneer or +cardboard. A good plan is to cut out a circle in fairly stiff cardboard, +and glue a covering of veneer on each side; this adds to the appearance +of the wheel and makes it stiffer. If veneer alone is used, two circles +must be cut out for each wheel, and glued together with the grain at +right angles. The wheels should be fixed in position with doll pins. + +For the tilt a piece of veneer bent over and glued to the inner sides of +the match box will do quite well. The red cross may be painted on, but +will look considerably better if cut from some light red paper and +stuck on. All that remains is to supply the shafts. For this two pieces +of stale of the requisite length should be glued to the under side of +the body of the cart. Fig. 26 shows the completed model. + +[Illustration: FIG. 26.] + + +Another military model, slightly more difficult to adjust, is + +_A Maxim Gun._--For this two wheels, each about 2-1/2 in. across, must +be constructed in the manner described above. + +The body of the machine is easier to make than describe. Fig. 27 shows +the under side. A small match box is taken and along one long edge of +the top a piece of stale is glued, projecting 1/4 in. at each end. This +stale is the axle. Two full-length stales are then glued so that they +meet at the end furthest from the axle. To render these projecting +pieces more stable, a triangular piece of veneer is glued across them at +the place of meeting. + +[Illustration: FIG. 27.] + +The two wheels are then fixed in position by means of doll pins. For the +front of the machine a screen is required, and a piece of veneer or card +is cut as shown in Fig. 28, and glued to the front edge of the match +box. Through the hole in this screen will project the actual gun itself. +For this a piece of wooden skewer or slender dowel will do. This can be +attached to the top of the box by means of glue, and can be wedged up +into a horizontal position if found to slant too much. + +[Illustration: FIG. 28.] + +A coat of dull grey paint will add greatly to the realistic appearance +of this interesting little toy. + + +Many other things can be made, too, for use when playing with toy +soldiers. One such model is + +_A Step Bridge_, as shown in Fig. 29. This is a very pretty little +model, and one quite delightful to make. For it we require four 1-3/4 +in. or 2-1/4 in. match boxes, a piece of cardboard or veneer, and some +match stales. + +[Illustration: FIG. 29.] + +The cardboard should be cut to the width of the match box that is, +either 1-3/4 in. or 2-1/4 in., and to a length of 4-1/2 in. At each end +of this should be glued the side of a match box. In this way the actual +bridge itself is formed. The step is provided at each end by a match +box, lying down, and glued to the standing box. + +The remaining task is the cutting and fitting of the match stales to +provide the railings--and this is the part requiring great care. +Reference to the sketch will give a much better idea of the design than +any amount of explanation. The stales will be cut to the following +lengths: two at 4-1/2 in., eight at 2-1/2 in., and four at 2 in. You can +finish off your model by pointing some of the stales; but this is not +at all necessary if you have used a sharp knife and made clean cuts. If +in fitting up the stales you find the glue is not sufficient, you can +strengthen the important joints by use of doll pins. + + +One other splendid use to which match boxes and stales can be put is the +provision of the lighter sorts of furniture for the dolls' house. We +give two examples typical of the extent to which these simple materials +may be applied. + +_A Doll's Umbrella Stand_ is a very happy little idea--very simple but +extremely effective. At the two ends of a small match-box tray, long +stales are glued, projecting underneath to act as short legs to keep the +tray from the ground. Near the top of these upright stales, four others +are fixed to act as a strengthening frame. These last should be secured +in place with doll pins in addition to the ordinary dab of tube glue. +Then across the frame so made should be fixed one or two short lengths +of stale in order to divide the stand into two or three compartments. +Fig. 30 shows the completed stand. + +[Illustration: FIG. 30.] + + +_A Doll's Fender_ is another article of similar type. For this we +require a cardboard or veneer base and a number of stales. The base is +cut out so as to measure at the most 5 in. in length; 5 in. by 1-1/4 in. +is a very suitable size. Now on three sides this will have a rail, +constructed with stales alone. A pillar is required about 1/8 in. from +each corner: this pillar should be about 3/4 in. high. Stretching from +pillar to pillar and glued to the base will be three pieces--one a long +one, approximately 4-1/2 in. long, and the other two short ones, about +3/4 in. in length. Above these, and not far below the tops of the +pillars, will be fixed a parallel series of long and short rails, fixed +into position with doll pins and glue. Very short pieces glued into an +upright position between the two long parallel rails add to the +stability of the structure and improve the appearance (Fig. 31). If you +can stain the different pieces with black and brown to represent iron +and copper, then a very effective representation of a fender will be +obtained. + +[Illustration: FIG. 31.] + +With a little ingenuity a set of fireirons--poker, tongs, and +shovel--can be devised and constructed from match stales. + + +In similar fashion countless other objects can be copied in miniature +with most pleasing results. We have not space here to detail the +construction of any more; but we would suggest that some of the +following might be attempted: bedstead, table, chair, deck chair +(folding), camp bed (folding). + +The construction of one or two of these will doubtless suggest many +more, and reveal to the reader the boundless possibilities of this +peculiarly fascinating pastime. + + +There is another broken household article on which the young toy-maker +may not cast eyes of scorn, and that is the broken clothes peg. In +skilful hands, this is capable of reconstruction to very useful ends. + +In the first place, if you can use a pocket-knife with some degree of +skill, you will be able to chip out of a few broken pegs quite a +respectable set of + +_Chess Men._--The pegs must be sawn across cleanly just through the +centre of the knob end: they will then stand upright. A few clean cuts +with a pocket-knife will quite easily suggest a king or a castle or a +bishop. The knight will, of course, provide most in the way of +difficulty--as he is generally shown with a horse's head. A few +painstaking attempts, however, should result in the obtaining of a +credible likeness. Fig. 32 shows the construction of a "pawn." + +[Illustration: FIG. 32.] + + +_Skittle Men._--Another piece of work for the pocket-knife expert is the +provision of a set of funny skittle men for use in the game of catapult +skittles (see below). These can be cut out to any quaint shape, and may +be caricatures of well-known people, or of trades, &c. Much amusement +can be got out of the cutting and painting of these grotesque little +figures. Hats can be provided for them by glueing on little rings of +cardboard (Fig. 33). + +[Illustration: FIG. 33.] + + +_A Catapult Game._--Probably every boy knows what a catapult is--and +what fun there is in the using of it. Happy young fingers pull back the +powerful elastic, and bright eyes watch the stone go whizzing away. +There is a fluttering of white wings: something falls; and there, lying +in the road, is a motionless lump of flesh and feathers--all that +remains of what was a beautiful little bird, pouring out its heart in +joyful song. + +Boys who think for a minute will not want to use the catapult in that +cruel fashion: they will prefer a game in which no harm is done, in +which no innocent creature is harmed, but which provides just as much +fun. "Catapult skittles" is such a game. + +It consists simply of a board with a catapult at one end, and a set of +skittles at the other. The broken peg skittles dealt with above will do +admirably for this (Fig. 34). + +The catapult itself can also be made with two pegs. These should be cut +off cleanly at the forks. Two holes, about 3 in. apart, should then be +bored in the base board (for this, a piece of plank about 3 ft. or 4 ft. +long will do quite well), and the pegs screwed on (see Fig. 39 on page +34). + +[Illustration: FIG. 34.] + +For ammunition all you need is an unlimited number of little pieces of +cardboard, folded in two. These carry well, are quite heavy enough to +upset the skittles, and, above all, are not likely to hurt, even if they +do strike a player. + +If you wish to vary the game slightly, you can rig up a "cokernut shy" +in place of the skittles. This you will find very popular at Christmas +time, particularly if you play for the nuts. + +For this you want some wire hoops on which to stand the nuts. To make +these, take a piece of stiff wire about 5 in. long and bend one end in +the shape of a small circle, about 1/2 in. across. Now bend this loop so +that it is at right angles to the wire; then when the wire is upright +the circle will be horizontal (Fig. 35). Sharpen the other end with a +file. Make three or four like this, and then some more an inch shorter, +and a third lot two inches shorter. These must then be driven into the +other end of the catapult board so that they are not too close together; +otherwise the game is too easy. + +[Illustration: FIG. 35.] + +Now all you need is a cardboard shelter. This can be oblong at the ends +and triangular at the sides; but the shape is quite immaterial so long +as the "shy" is properly shut in. Fig. 36 shows a suitable arrangement. + +[Illustration: FIG. 36.] + + +Another tip-top game, for the making of which you can use broken clothes +pegs, is the "_ring-board_" or "_indoor quoits_." This consists simply +of a board with a number of pegs projecting from it. The object of the +game is to throw a number of rings in such a fashion that they will +lodge on the pegs, scoring points according to the numbers marked at +each peg. The board may be hung on the wall, or else placed flat on the +floor. In the former case, the pegs must have a slightly upward slant, +so that the rings will not tumble off easily; in the latter the rings +must be upright. + +To make either game, obtain a piece of wood about 18 in. square. You +will probably need to join up boards for this. If you get three pieces +of 6-in. board, each 18 in. long, and secure these side by side by means +of a couple of battens, nailed right across the back, the result will be +a square of the right size (Fig. 37). + +[Illustration: FIG. 37.] + +Now mark out the board as in Fig. 38. At the points where the dotted +lines cross you will fix the projecting pegs. + +[Illustration: FIG. 38.] + +For these last take some broken pegs, and saw them off cleanly, just +above the fork. If the board is to be a ground board, cut them quite +level; if an upright board, then slightly slanting (Fig. 39). These must +be secured in place by long thin screws driven in from the back--the +correct holes having been bored in the base board. Now give each peg a +number--assigning the higher numbers to the more difficult pegs--and +paint the number on the back board close to the peg. + +[Illustration: FIG. 39.] + +For rings various things can be used. Old brass curtain rings are +suitable in some respects, especially for the ground game, but they are +very noisy. Thick india-rubber rings are frequently used, and can be +purchased quite cheaply at any "games" shop. Rings made of stout cord, +or thin rope, are frequently played with, especially on board ship, +where the ground game is very popular. Should there be any difficulty in +obtaining or making any of these, then it is a very simple matter to cut +rings from a sheet of thick cardboard. + +The great objection to the upright game is the nuisance of the falling +rings. This may be avoided partly by constructing a cardboard "catcher" +to fit underneath. This is simply a cardboard triangle, or rather two +right-angled triangles joined together by tape so as to bend easily and +be strong: these are nailed to the two under edges of the board (Fig. +40). + +[Illustration: FIG. 40.] + + +Another splendid shooting toy is the _Dart Box_. For this you need a +wooden box of some sort. Size and shape do not matter very much, but a +box with ends roughly square would do best: one 15 in. long, 6 in. wide, +and 6 in. deep would be admirable for the purpose. + +On the inside of one end paint a target, and number each division, +assigning higher numbers to the spots more difficult to hit (Fig. 41). +Now in the centre of the opposite end bore a circular hole with a +diameter of about 3/8 in.; and across this, on the outside of the box, +fasten a strong piece of ribbon elastic--nailing down each end with a +piece of wood (Fig. 42). For the dart, take a butcher's wooden skewer, +and into the pointed end introduce a piece of a stout needle. + +[Illustration: FIG. 41.] + +[Illustration: FIG. 42.] + +When shooting with this toy, hold the box firmly, open the lid, fit the +dart in the hole from the inside, and draw back the elastic. When you +have taken careful aim, close down the lid and let go. + +This is a capital toy, and provides endless amusement. Also it is a very +desirable one as far as shooting is concerned, for the closing down of +the lid ensures perfect safety. + + +While talking of making things from clothes pegs, we may as well give +particulars of one or two things which will appeal rather more to our +girl readers. + + +_A Key Rack_ such as that shown in Fig. 43 is just such an article as a +girl would take a delight in making, because of its simplicity and its +prettiness. + +[Illustration: FIG. 43.] + +The only materials required are two pegs, some hooks, and a length of +ribbon. Take the two pegs--which should be nicely turned ones--and wedge +the prongs one within the other so that the pegs remain fixed at right +angles. In doing this, push the pegs in tightly, but take care not to +split the pegs in so doing. Using a bradawl, make a hole through the +junction of the prongs, and screw in a hook: the common sort as used on +dressers, &c., will do quite well. Now bore holes midway between the +junction and the knobs, and screw in two more hooks. + +If now a coat of enamel be given to the pegs--say green in colour--and +if ribbons (pale blue) be tastily arranged as shown in the sketch, then +a very pretty and useful little article will result. + + +Yet another splendid little article from pegs is a + +_Picture Postcard Stand_, for which the only necessities will be two +pegs and a piece of wood for a base (Fig. 44). + +[Illustration: FIG. 44.] + +This base should be about 4-1/2 in. long and about 2-1/2 in. wide. It +can be cut from wood of any thickness, but a piece about 3/8 in. thick +is the most suitable. Find the centre of each end edge of the base, and +draw a line right across the wood. If now you measure in one inch from +each end you will get the two spots to which to affix the pegs. + +These last must first of all have one prong removed, or rather enough of +a prong to leave a quarter-inch stump projecting. This stump should be +rounded with a sharp knife, and then the whole peg should be finished +off with glass-paper. These pegs must then be fixed knob downwards on to +the base. Fig. 39 on page 34 shows a suitable method for this. + +If you are at all skilful with your tools you will be able to cut a nice +moulding round the edge of the base, and so improve the artistic effect +of your model. + +Two thin coats of varnish, or of good enamel, will complete this +attractive little article. + + +One little wooden toy, quite interesting in itself, and very useful when +playing with "soldiers," is + +_The Windlass._--Some odd pieces of lath or cigar-box wood, a cotton +reel, a length of string, some stout wire, and some glue and pins, +provide all the necessaries. The cotton reel should be the largest +obtainable. + +Fig. 45 shows the completed work. First of all, make a square base for +the windlass. If the reel is 3 in. long, cut off four lengths of lath +(or four inch-strips of cigar-wood box) each 4 in. long, and glue these +into a hollow square, two under and two over. Now cut off two more +lengths, 3 in. long, for the upright supports--making the top ends +pointed to hold the slanting covers. + +[Illustration: FIG. 45.] + +Before these side-pieces are glued and pinned into position, it will be +necessary to insert the reel. Get a piece of skewer, or lead pencil, 4 +in. long, and glue it into the hole in the reel. At one end of the axle +so formed will be placed the handle. This can be made in several ways, +either with wood or wire, or a mixture of the two (Figs. 46, 47, 48 show +some varieties, which may also be useful in making other toys). Holes +just large enough to allow the axle to turn freely must then be cut in +the side supports. + +The two slanting covers should be about 4 in. long, so as to allow a +trifle to project at each end, and should be from 3/4 in. to 1 in. wide. +The two edges which meet to form the apex of the cover should be +bevelled off so as to form a clean join. + +In making this model it would perhaps be as well to use carpenter's glue +in place of the prepared stuff. + +[Illustration: FIG. 46.] + +[Illustration: FIG. 47.] + +[Illustration: FIG. 48.] + + +From the material supplied by one or two empty cigar boxes, many +interesting things can be made, especially articles for use with +dolls--cradles, carts, furniture, &c. If these articles are of no use to +you, they come in very handy for presents to little sisters and friends, +especially when well made and carefully finished. + + +_A Doll's Cradle_ is perhaps one of the simplest to commence with. To a +box from which the lid has been removed, it is only necessary to add two +rockers. These can be cut out from the lid by means of a fret saw, and +then smoothed down with glass-paper. Fig. 49 shows the best shape for +the rockers, which should be glued on about an inch from each end of the +box (Fig. 50). Great care should be taken that the two rockers are as +nearly alike as possible, otherwise the cradle will not swing to and fro +freely. + +[Illustration: FIG. 49.] + +[Illustration: FIG. 50.] + + +_A Doll's Cart_ is also comparatively easy to make, the only really +trying part being the cutting of the four wheels. + +For the body of the cart use a cigar box which has been deprived of its +lid, and planed down level round the edges. To the under side of this +body, and about one inch from each end, glue two pieces of wood to which +to fix the wheels. Strengthen these joins by means of short pins driven +through. Fix the wheels to these pieces by means of pins (Fig. 51). In +order to support these two wheel-holders, stretch another piece across +the space between them, at right angles to each, gluing it firmly to the +two centres. + +[Illustration: FIG. 51.] + +The wheels should be cut with a fret saw, if you possess one. If you do +not possess one, then draw out the circle on the wood, and cut the +square containing the circle. Then saw off the corners to form an +eight-sided figure, and go on cutting off corners until you get down to +the circle, which you can finish off with glass-paper (Fig. 52). + +[Illustration: FIG. 52.] + +A little hook or ring should be attached at the bottom of one end, in +order that a string may be tied on, and the vehicle drawn along. + + +_A Jack-in-the-Box._--One of the most old-fashioned of toys, this never +loses its interest. The box required for it is practically cubical: +therefore 6 four-inch squares of cigar-box wood must be cut out. Two of +these will need to be cut down to 3-3/4 in. in width, so that the +four-inch bottom and lid will fit: so from two squares cut a strip 1/4 +in. wide. Glue and pin together the two 3-3/4 pieces and two of the +four-inch pieces to form a hollow square. To this will be fixed one of +the other four-inch pieces to form a bottom; and at the other end the +remaining four-inch piece will be hinged (or wired on like the lid of a +chocolate box). + +Before the bottom is finally put on, it will be necessary to attach the +mechanism. For this you will require a strong piece of spring about 6 +in. long when released, and a doll's head. One end of the spring must be +fixed to the centre of the base. You can do this by means of tiny wire +staples (bent pins with the heads nipped off) hammered over the wire +into the base, and then bent back on the opposite side of the wood (Fig. +53). At the other end of the spring a piece of cardboard must be fixed, +and to it the doll's head must be firmly glued. When the mechanism is +complete, nail on the bottom, and fix the lid. + +[Illustration: FIG. 53.] + +Into the centre of the front edge of the lid drive a small nail, or +stout pin, and on the box just below fix a revolving catch hook. This +you can quite easily cut from an old piece of fairly thick tin (Fig. +54). In this way an effective means is provided of releasing the lid and +enabling the "Jack" to shoot out suddenly. + +[Illustration: FIG. 54.] + + +_The Jig-saw Puzzle_ was at one time a very popular toy, and there are +signs that its popularity is being revived. If it does not interest you +particularly, it will provide a little brother or sister with endless +amusement. + +In reality the puzzle consists merely of a picture (generally an +interesting coloured one) glued very firmly to a piece of fretwood or +cigar-box wood. This is then by means of a fret saw cut into a great +many pieces, shaped as quaintly and awkwardly as possible (see Fig. 55). +These pieces are then jumbled up into disorder, and passed on to the +little one in order that the shapes may be fitted into place and the +original picture reconstructed. + +[Illustration: FIG. 55.] + + +Somewhat after the style of the "jig-saw" puzzle just described is the + +_Geometrical Puzzle_ shown in Fig. 56. Each of these consists of a +capital letter divided up by one or two straight lines into right-angled +triangles and other geometrical shapes. While very simple to look at +when completed, these little puzzles are by no means easy to solve when +the odd pieces are given in a jumbled state. The capital letters should +be drawn on a piece of cigar-box wood, and then carefully cut out with a +fret saw, or, better still, with a tenon saw if you have one. If you +cannot manage wood, then the puzzle can be done in stout cardboard and +cut out with a sharp thin knife. + +[Illustration: FIG. 56.] + + +Of other cheaply made puzzles + +_The Reels and String Puzzle_ is highly entertaining. The only materials +required for it are the lid of a cigar box, two cotton reels, two +beads, and a length of smooth string or thin silk cord. The making is +simplicity itself. All you need do is cut the lid in halves and bore +three holes in a line in one of the halves. Of course you can ornament +your wood as much as you like, but that will in no way increase or +decrease the effectiveness of the puzzle. + +When you have cut it out and finished it off nicely with glass-paper, +thread the beads and reels as shown in Fig. 57. Take special care that +you do not make any mistake in the arrangement, or your solution will +result in a hopeless tangle. + +[Illustration: FIG. 57.] + +The object of the puzzle is to get the two cotton reels, which, as you +see, are now on quite separate loops, on to one loop. To solve it +proceed as follows: Take hold of the centre loop, and pull it down to +its full extent. Now pass the right-hand reel through the loop. Taking +care not to twist the cord, pass this loop through the hole on the +right-hand side, over the bead, and then draw it back again. + +Now if you follow the same procedure with the left-hand reel you will +find that the centre loop is released and can be pulled through the +centre hole. Then will the two reels slide down side by side. + + +One thoroughly entertaining and, to a certain extent, bewildering puzzle +is + +_The Three-hole Puzzle._--Really the puzzle consists of a piece of thin +wood with three holes cut in it. These three holes are respectively +circular, square, and triangular (Fig. 58). The problem is to cut one +block of wood which will pass through each hole and at the same time fit +the hole exactly. + +[Illustration: FIG. 58.] + +Can it be done? At first it looks to be quite impossible; but there is a +very neat solution to the difficulty. + +First cut out your holes. To do this get a cigar-box lid and draw out +the three figures, taking care that the length of the side of the square +and the length of the side of the triangle and the length of the +diameter of the circle are equal. Now, using your fret saw, cut out +these holes very neatly and precisely. + +For the block you need a small cylinder of wood: an odd piece of broken +broom handle will do admirably. This must be cut and finished with +glass-paper so that it will fit the circular hole exactly. Now saw a +piece just as long as the cylinder is wide. This looked at in one way +gives an exact square which will fit the second hole. Thus two holes are +catered for. + +Finally, for the third hole the cylinder must be tapered on two sides. +To do this draw a diameter at one end and then gradually pare away a +flat surface till the triangular section is obtained. + +Fig. 59 shows how the block, when turned in different ways, fits the +three holes. + +[Illustration: FIG. 59.] + + +Another toy which can be made quite easily from cigar-box wood is + +_A Model Signal._--First cut two strips of wood, half an inch wide and +as long as you can get them, which will be 8 or 9 in. These will stand +upright on a base board, and form the sides of the standard. Now between +these two you must glue shorter pieces of half-inch strip, so as to make +the standard solid at the top and bottom, and leave a hollow slot, 1 in. +long, in which the signal arm will fit and work up and down (Fig. 60). + +[Illustration: FIG. 60.] + +Now cut out and paint a signal arm, about 2-1/2 in. long. Fix this by +means of a pin passing through the two sides of the standard, and +through the arm about 3/4 in. from the square end. If it does not move +easily in the slot, take off the top surface with glass-paper. Before +fixing the signal arm in position, bore a small hole 1/4 in. from the +square end, and knot in a piece of twine or thin wire to act as a +connection between the movable arm and the controlling lever (Fig. 61). + +[Illustration: FIG. 61.] + +At the base of the standard fix the controlling lever. This consists of +a small strip, with a pin passing through one end into the standard. +Adjust the length of the twine or wire, so that when the signal arm is +down, the lever is horizontal; and when the lever is pressed down, the +arm rises. You can make a little contrivance for fixing the lever by +erecting a small post close to the standard, and gluing on two stops, +under which to rest the free end of the lever in its two positions (Fig. +62). + +[Illustration: FIG. 62.] + +If you prefer it, you can have the controlling lever at a distance from +the signal post. You will then need a longer wire, and a little pulley +wheel at the base of the standard. You must exercise your own ingenuity +for this. + + +Another interesting little scientific toy, which has the additional +advantage of being useful, is the _Weather House_, or the _Man and Woman +Barometer_. This consists of a little house with two doorways, at which +appear two figures, one in fine weather, and the other in dull (Fig. +63). + +[Illustration: FIG. 63.] + +With patience and care this is not very difficult to make. For the house +itself you can use an old cigar box, or, if you prefer it, you can make +the entire house in cardboard. This is, of course, easier, but not very +durable. If you are going to use the cigar box, you will need first to +cut the lid and bottom into something like the shape of a house end. You +will then have to nail the lid down, and add two slanting pieces for the +sides of the roof: and that will complete the house. + +However, before you nail down the lid and put on the roof, you will need +to understand the mechanism. First you will bore a round hole in the top +of the roof, just behind the front gable. This hole is for a round peg +to which the revolving base is attached. + +The actual mechanism of the toy consists of a piece of catgut (an old +violin string, or a tennis-racket string). This passes through the +centre of a small flat piece of wood on which the two figures are +balanced. Just in front of the string a piece of wire (a bent hairpin +will do admirably) is fixed, so as to form a loop through which the +catgut can pass (see Fig. 64). The other end of the catgut is fixed to +the peg which fits in the hole in the roof. + +[Illustration: FIG. 64.] + +For the man and woman you can use two of the grotesque figures cut from +clothes pegs. Screws passed through the revolving base will secure the +figures firmly and at the same time add a little weight, and so improve +the balance. + +When there is moisture in the air the catgut will twist. You must fit +together the different parts and then, by turning the peg to right or +left, adjust the position of the figures so that the lady appears in +fine weather and the gentleman in wet. + + +A toy of unfailing attraction for boys--and girls as well--is + +_The Marble Board._--This may be quite a simple affair--such as a boy +can carry in his pocket for use in the playground--just a piece of wood, +such as a cigar-box lid, with a number of holes cut along one edge, and +a handle added (Fig. 65); or it may be a much more elaborate form +intended for use as a table game. + +[Illustration: FIG. 65.] + +In this latter case there is a front board, similar to that in the +simple form; but behind each hole there is a little compartment for the +collection of the marbles (Fig. 66). To make this you need two pieces of +wood, about 2 in. wide, and as long as the table is broad: any sort of +wood will do. These are for the front and back of the contrivance. The +front must next be marked out for the marble holes, allowing about 1 in. +for the hole and 1 in. for the space between. Of course, the wider the +spaces between the more difficult it becomes to score. These holes must +then be cut out by means of a fret saw, or, if you do not possess one, +by means of saw and chisel. The back and front must then be secured in +position by means of end-pieces nailed or screwed on. These should be +about 3 in. long. + +[Illustration: FIG. 66.] + +The next piece of work is the adjustment of the partitions. For these +cigar-box wood is best. You can either cut these partitions to the exact +distance between the front and the back, and glue them into position; or +else you can make them a little larger, and fit them into grooves cut +into the front and back: but that is a nice little piece of carpentry +for you. + +When you have done this, all that is necessary is to give the whole +thing a coat of paint, and place numbers over the various holes--taking +care that you do not put all the high numbers together. + +Boards similar to this are used in the Colonies for a game known as +"Bobs." Larger balls are used, and propelled by means of a cue as in +billiards. If you can obtain the balls, this is a delightful game, and +one well worth making. + + +_A Wooden Wind Wheel_ for the garden is a splendid little model to +make--interesting in itself, but doubly desirable because so much can be +done with it. Of course, it can be made quite small and very simple, and +still provide unending amusement to smaller brothers and sisters; but +for our own purpose it is just as well to make a larger and stronger +specimen, one which can be employed as a power station for the working +of smaller toys. + +The main parts are: (1) a circular hub, about 2-1/2 to 3 in. in +diameter, and 1 to 1-1/4 in. in thickness (for the smaller varieties a +cotton reel will do admirably); (2) six or eight sails, each about 6 or +7 in. long and 3 in. wide at the extreme end, tapering down to a little +more than the width of the hub at the other; (3) a hardwood axle; and +(4) a driving wheel. For this last a cotton reel will do splendidly, +especially one of those with wide flanges and a slender centre. The +general arrangement is shown in Fig. 67. + +[Illustration: FIG. 67.] + +The cutting of the hub is not a very difficult matter if you have a fret +saw. It should be cut across the grain if you can get a suitable piece +of wood. The sails also are quite easy to make. For these you cannot +beat cigar-box wood. The cutting of the grooves in the hub for the +insertion of the sails is the most trying piece of work. These grooves +should be just large enough to allow the sails to fit tightly, and +should be cut at an angle of 45° across the hub. The sails should then +be glued in with carpenter's glue. + +For the axle secure a piece of round wood, such as an odd length of +half-inch dowel-rod. This should be cut to a length of about 4-1/2 to 5 +in. On this should be fixed the wheel itself, and, at a sufficient +distance to prevent the sails catching the string, the bearing wheel. A +French nail in each end of the axle will then secure it in position +between the side supports and secure an easy running. + +If you have a play shed in the garden, this apparatus can be erected at +the top of a high post projecting through or at the side of the roof. +The driving strings can then pass through a hole in the roof or the +wall, and the power can be transmitted by a double pulley wheel and +another driving string. If you have no play shed, it is not at all +difficult to rig it up outside a window. You can try that, and prove +your own inventive abilities. + + +_How to use the Wind Power Machine._--One thing which this mechanism +will drive in good fashion is an overhead tramway system--a very pretty +little toy when in working order. + +For this all that is required is a number of cotton reels, a length of +stout cord, and one or two of the model trams described on page 21. If +you care to, you can make proper "standards" for the cotton reels. Fig. +68 shows such an arrangement. The flat base is for heavy weights when +the system is rigged up on a table or other place where nails cannot be +used. These reels must turn freely to allow the easy passage of the +cable. In one place there must be a double reel (Fig. 69) for the +transmission of the power. The lower reel will act as the ordinary cable +wheel, while the other, glued firmly to it, will carry the driving belt +from the wind machine described above. + +[Illustration: FIG. 68.] + +[Illustration: FIG. 69.] + +The model trams must be fixed to the cable. This is done by means of two +wires, fixed to the pole of the tram and twined round the cable. When +this is connected up and the cable drawn tightly round the standard +reels, the vehicles circulate rapidly on what is really a complete model +tramway system. + + +Another interesting contrivance to which the wind power can be harnessed +is + +_A Roundabout._--This attractive little toy can be made quite readily +from one or two reels, and four ordinary wooden skewers. + +The first thing required is a base board, for which any tolerably smooth +and heavy piece of wood will suffice. Now in the centre of this fix an +upright piece of thick wire (a knitting needle will do); and glue on a +cotton reel at the base of this. + +In order to secure the absolutely smooth running of the roundabout it +will be necessary to improvise some sort of "bearings." For this there +is nothing better than two hard glass beads. If one of these beads be +sunk into the top of the reel just mentioned, and the other fixed in +the bottom of another loose reel, the upper one will revolve freely on +the lower (Fig. 70). This loose reel will be the driving wheel of the +contrivance and will hold the power band from the wind wheel. Fixed to +this running wheel, and immediately above, will be another reel for the +actual merry-go-round. Into the sides of this uppermost reel bore four +holes, and insert the pointed ends of the four skewers, arranging them +so that all four are at right angles. The running will be facilitated if +another glass bead is sunk in the top of this reel. + +[Illustration: FIG. 70.] + +All that remains now to complete the roundabout is to fix four +figures--horses, boats, or similar--at one end of each skewer. These +figures can be drawn on cardboard and cut out; or they can be sawn from +fretwood. + + +Another interesting variation of this toy is the + +_Fairy Light Wheel._--For this, instead of fixing figures at the ends of +the skewers, obtain four egg shells, and suspend them by means of wires +from the ends of the arms (Fig. 71). Now if little night-lights or odd +ends of candle be placed in the egg shells and lighted, a very pretty +effect is obtained when the whole is made to revolve. + +[Illustration: FIG. 71.] + + +A toy which is always welcome to boys and girls is + +_A Pair of Scales._--Moreover this is a toy which can be made quite +accurately with the aid of a few quite ordinary materials. To a pair of +scales--or a balance, as it is sometimes called--there are generally +these parts: (1) a balancing arm, generally called the beam; (2) an +upright standard on which the beam is supported; (3) two scale pins, and +chains (or strings) to suspend them; (4) a base board to which the +upright standard is fixed. Fig. 72 shows the sort of thing we mean. + +[Illustration: FIG. 72.] + +Now of these things not one presents any real difficulty. For the base +board any piece of wood about a foot long, 5 in. wide, and 3/4 in. thick +will do quite well. For the upright standard you require a piece of wood +about 9 in. long and 1 in. square--one end of which must be fixed to the +base board. The method of doing this will depend very largely on your +degree of proficiency in the art of carpentry. If you know how to make a +mortise and tenon joint, that will be the most suitable. If you cannot +attain to that, then perhaps you can make a hole just as large as the +standard, and sink the standard in the base. If you are not at all an +expert, then you must just nail or screw your standard to the centre of +the base. + +Before you do this, however, there is something to be done to the other +end. You must cut a slot 1/2 in. wide and 1-1/2 in. deep (Fig. 73_a_); +then you must cut away small triangular pieces from the centres of the +tongues left (Fig. 73_b_); and finally you must nail to the sides of the +V so formed two little strips of tin (Fig. 73_c_). + +[Illustration: FIG. 73.] + +The next thing to be constructed is the "beam." For this you will need a +piece of fretwood (or other thin wood) about 9 or 10 in. long and about +1 in. wide. To support this on the metal V pieces you will need a thin +piece of steel--such as a piece of an old pocket-knife blade. This will +be driven through the centre of the beam, and will project equally on +either side (Fig. 74). Remember, it must fit tightly; so when you cut +the slot for it, do not make it too wide. + +[Illustration: FIG. 74.] + +For the scale pans two canister lids will do quite well. Bore three +holes in each of the rims--measuring off the distances with a compass, +so that the holes are equally far apart, and suspend the pans by means +of three strings passing into holes in the ends of the beam. If, when +you have completed the work, the beam does not hang perfectly +horizontal, then you must add weight or subtract weight from one side or +the other. You can do this by paring off tiny pieces from the end of the +beam, or you can stick on dabs of sealing wax till the correct balance +is obtained. + +If you cannot get any proper _weights_, then it is not a very difficult +matter to make some. To do this, all that you need is to get some +cardboard and a supply of sand, and to borrow a complete set of weights. +First of all make a number of little cardboard cubes, having sides +varying from 3/4 in. to 3 in. Draw each one out on cardboard (Fig. 75); +cut it out; and bind up with gummed tape--leaving one side ungummed. On +one pan of the balance put this thing, and on the other pan put a +proper weight (say 1/2 oz). Now pour in sand into the little cube until +it exactly balances the correct weight. When it does, wet the binding, +and stick down the remaining side. Finally print the correct weight on +one face of the cube. + +[Illustration: FIG. 75.] + +In similar fashion you can proceed to make all the different weights +that you are likely to require, from 1/2 oz. upwards. While not very +substantial, these little weights will last quite a long time, if they +are handled with care. + + +Engines of all sorts are always fascinating to boys and girls, and later +on we shall describe some excellent ones. At this point we wish to +describe what is possibly one of the simplest forms of engine known, and +certainly one of the earliest. It is the engine driven by a flanged +wheel, which itself is made to turn by the weight of something falling +on the flanges. The commonest form of this wheel is the water wheel, +where the weight of the water falling on the wheel causes the +revolution. + +As water is generally a "messy" thing to operate with, especially on +such a contrivance as this, we have substituted something else. + +For the working of very light toys, sand provides an alternative motive +power. If a flanged wheel be made after the fashion of a water wheel, +and a steady stream of sand allowed to descend on to the flanges, then +the wheel will rotate as long as the supply of sand lasts, and the power +may be transmitted by pulley wheels for the working of some simple +mechanism. + + +Fig. 76 shows + +_A Sand-power Engine._--The large driving wheel consists of two circles +of thick cardboard, each about 6 in. across, firmly glued together. +These two circles are bevelled, and fixed facing inwards, so that a +groove is left in which the power band can run. + +[Illustration: FIG. 76.] + +Through the centre of the driving wheel thus fashioned a piece of +dowelling or old lead pencil is fixed, projecting 1/4 in. on one side, +and about 1-1/2 in. on the other. Nails are driven in the two ends of +this axle, and the wheel is suspended between supports, glued and +screwed firmly to a base board. + +The flanged sand wheel is next constructed. For this, four oblong pieces +of cardboard, 1-1/4 in. wide and about 2 in. long, are cut out. A line +is scratched along each of these about 1/2 in. from the end, and the +cardboard bent so as to form a scoop to hold the sand for an instant. +These four flanges are then glued to the axle, and the side of the +driving wheel. If the sand wheel so made is not sufficiently firm, then +another small cardboard circle can be glued to the flanges, on the side +remote from the driving wheel: this will strengthen the wheel and in no +way interfere with the running. + +All that is necessary now is to erect some sort of sand supply: for this +a large canister will do. A tiny hole must be punched in the bottom of +the tin, and a revolving trap made with another piece of tin. This is +simple enough: all you need to do is cut a piece of tin about 3/4 in. +long and 1/2 in. wide, and punch a hole in one end. This pierced tin +should then be placed so that the unbroken end of the slip covers the +supply hole. A forked rivet should then be passed through the hole in +the slip and through the bottom of the canister and fixed in place (Fig. +77); the trap can then be made to revolve, and the sand supply started +or stopped at will. The canister should be placed above the wheel so +that a thin stream falls on the flanges and turns the wheel. + +[Illustration: FIG. 77.] + +If a string be now passed round the outside edge of the driving wheel, +the mechanism can be harnessed to any toy and the motive power supplied. +For instance, the contrivance can be erected on a flat hull similar to +that shown in Fig. 83, page 70; and the power band, passing through a +hole in the centre of the hull, can be connected with the propeller by +means of a rod (in place of the elastic). The resultant machine, though +not highly efficient, is yet quite attractive. + + +Another material from which some delightful toys can be contrived is +"tin," or, as it is more correctly called, "tinned iron." This is the +stuff cocoa tins and mustard tins and many other articles are made of. +Perhaps the simplest toy we can commence with is + +_A Rotating Snake._--For this secure a clean flat piece of thin tin--the +piece which the little patent cutter removes from the top of a round +cigarette tin will do admirably--and, using a soft lead pencil, draw on +it a spiral snake, such as is shown in Fig. 78. Now cut along the lines +with a stout pair of scissors, or else with a sharp-pointed knife. Pull +out the resultant spiral till it is stretched as in Fig. 79, and mount +it by means of the tail on an upright piece of pointed stout wire. The +serpent will rotate on this for a considerable time. + +[Illustration: FIG. 78.] + +[Illustration: FIG. 79.] + +If you are good at bent-wire work, you will be able to make a wire stand +by which to fix it on a lamp chimney or gas globe: it will then revolve +continuously, and with considerable speed. + + +_A Tin-can Steam Roller._--This is a nice piece of metal work, and, when +finished well, provides a proper little toy. To construct it you need +several tins--a round tin, such as a cocoa tin, about 2 in. across and 4 +in. long; an oblong tin, about 3-1/2 in. by 3 in. by 2 in., such as the +larger-sized mustard tins; a round cigarette tin, about 2-1/2 in. across +and 3-1/4 in. deep; two equal-sized tin lids from canisters, each about +4 in. across; and a cotton reel. These, the main items, when put +together, yield a model similar to that shown in Fig. 80. + +[Illustration: FIG. 80.] + +The fixing is quite a simple affair. With a pair of metal shears (or +strong scissors) you cut away a portion of the top of the cocoa tin, so +as to leave three tongues. Then on the side of the oblong mustard tin +you mark three lines to correspond with the three tongues, and cut them +through so as to form three slots into which the tongues may fit. Now, +if the tongues be bent outwards or inwards, then the two tins will hold +firmly together, and give the boiler and cab of the machine (Fig. 81). + +Before bending these, however, it is necessary to bore a hole in the +under side of the boiler for the fixing of the front roller. This is +attached to the boiler by means of a narrow strip of tin bent twice at +right angles, and kept in place by means of a forked brass rivet or a +strong brass paper fastener so that it will revolve freely. This narrow +strip of tin just fits over the cigarette tin--a piece of knitting +needle being used as axle, passing through holes bored in the centre of +the bottom and lid of the tin, and through the ends of the slip. + +For the larger rear wheels the lids of two canisters can be used, or, if +something is required giving a more definite impression of solidity, two +flat boot-polish tins can be substituted. Another piece of knitting +needle passes through the centre of these, and through holes in the +sides of the cab, and so acts as axle. This is kept in place by means of +dabs of sealing wax. + +For the stack you can use a long thin cotton reel, or, better still, you +can fix on another small tin by the method shown in Fig. 81. + +[Illustration: FIG. 81.] + +The turning of the front wheel can be regulated by means of two strings +passing from the two right-angle strips through a hole into the cab. If +you can fix the strings to a piece of wood as shown in Fig. 82, you will +be able to steer properly. A hole in the bottom of the cab, and a piece +of wood stretched tightly across the top, should enable you to set up +the steering apparatus. + +[Illustration: FIG. 82.] + + +_A Working Motor Boat._--To construct a motor boat that will travel a +considerable distance is not really a difficult matter. All that is +necessary is a piece of board for a hull, a wood or metal propeller, and +a yard or two of strong elastic: these, carefully adjusted, will do all +that is necessary. + +For the hull, a piece of 5/8 in. or 3/4 in. board, about 18 in. long +will do. This can be cut to the boat shape by means of a pocket knife or +a spokeshave, and finished off with glass-paper. It should be +sharp-pointed at the bows, about 3 in. to 4 in. at the centre, tapering +down to a width of 2 in. at the stern. In the centre of the hull nail a +block of wood, and to it glue two funnels (Fig. 83). For these, the odd +lengths cut off from bamboo curtain poles will do admirably; or, if +these be not obtainable, a couple of incandescent-mantle cases will +suffice. + +[Illustration: FIG. 83.] + +The adjustment of the motive power is the difficult task. First, you +will need to purchase a couple of yards of suitable elastic: this is +sold at most large toy shops, and costs usually a penny a yard. To fix +this into place beneath the hull you will need to construct two metal +supports. If you can get an old tin box made from metal sufficiently +stout, that will do; if not, then you had better buy a piece of sheet +brass, No. 20 gauge: 6 in. by 4 in. will be ample. Draw out these +supports as shown in Figs. 84 and 85, and bend them into shape as in +Figs. 86 and 87--one for the bow and one for the stern. Screw on the bow +one about 1-1/2 in. or 2 in. from the point, and the stern one in the +middle of the end. + +[Illustration: FIG. 84.] + +[Illustration: FIG. 85.] + +[Illustration: FIG. 86.] + +[Illustration: FIG. 87.] + +Now into the bow support fix a loop of stout wire to hold the rubber +strands, making it sufficiently large to rest against the sides and so +prevent turning. At the stern support adjust the propeller bearings. On +the care with which these are adjusted depends largely the success of +the model. Take a piece of wire (1/16-inch brass is best) and bend it as +in Fig. 88, introducing a hard smooth glass bead. This "bead" runs more +freely against the metal, and so facilitates the working. Now stretch +the elastic between the two loops, arranging it so that there are six or +eight strands. To work the model, turn the propeller round and round +till the strands of elastic are very tightly twisted, place on the +surface of the water, and then release the propeller. Fig. 83 shows the +completed model. + +[Illustration: FIG. 88.] + + +All boys love a toy that "goes"; and so a short account showing how to +make + +_A Steamboat_ that will actually travel on the water will be very +welcome. Our boat, which in reality is not a "steam" boat, inasmuch as +no steam is generated, is very simple in its construction and possesses +neither wheels nor pistons nor cranks, nor any of the things that one +associates with a steamer. + +The whole motive power is supplied by one or two candle ends, and a bent +piece of strong metal tubing. This last can scarcely be called either +"odds" or "ends"; and you will probably have to purchase it at a shop +selling model-engine fittings, but a few pence will cover the cost. You +must get an eight-inch piece of solid drawn copper or brass tubing, with +an inside diameter of 1/8 in. (_N.B._--Do not let the man sell you +soldered tubing, for it will certainly crack when you bend it.) + +The next operation is the most difficult: it is bending the tube to the +shape shown in Fig. 89. This must be done very gently, otherwise you +will crack or dent it. The loop shown should have a diameter of about +5/8 to 3/4 of an inch. + +[Illustration: FIG. 89.] + +The actual boat itself can be of any shape. If you happen to have an old +wooden hull suitable to the purpose, use that; if not, then a flat hull +similar to that described on page 70 will do quite well. Fix the bent +tubing at the stern of the boat, so that the two open ends project over +the edge and dip beneath the surface of the water (Fig. 90). Two pieces +of wire bent as in Fig. 90_a_ will hold the tubing in place. + +[Illustration: FIG. 90.] + +All that you need do now is place the candles under the loop of the tube +and heat it. (If you have a tiny spirit lamp, that will act more +effectively, of course.) The heat from the candles makes the air in the +tube very hot. This hot air is expelled from one arm of the tube; and a +current of water rushes up one arm of the tube and down the other with +considerable force. It is this current that causes the boat to move. + + +_Another Working Steamboat._--This time our boat will merit its +name--for we shall have a boiler, and generate a supply of steam. + +If you look at Fig. 91 you will get a good idea of the construction of +this model, and realise how simple it really is. The boiler is provided +by a medium-sized flat oblong tin, with the lid soldered down so that it +is steam tight. For the purpose of putting water into the boiler when +necessary, a hole is bored in the lid, and a cork fitted tightly. + +[Illustration: FIG. 91.] + +In one end of the boiler, and towards the top, you must make a pin hole. +When the water boils well, the steam is expelled through this tiny hole +with considerable force; and to this is due the motion of the craft. + +The remainder of the fitting up is soon done. A flat hull similar to +that described on page 70 is prepared, and four flat-headed nails driven +in, so that the four corners of the boiler can each stand on a nail +head. The rudder is cut from an old piece of tin, and pressed into a +knife-cut made in the centre of the stern of the hull. + +The boiler is placed into position with the steam hole facing the stern, +and lighted candle ends are then placed underneath the boiler--as many +as possible; for the more the candles the greater the heat, and +consequently the greater the force of steam. It will help matters along +considerably if the boiler is first of all filled with hot water, +instead of cold; but be careful not to scald yourself in doing this. + +When steam is up, the boat should travel along at quite a comfortable +pace. + + +Apart from the materials dealt with there are numerous little fragments. +A pane of glass is broken, for instance, and in most cases all the +pieces are thrown away. Now this is quite unnecessary, for from them can +be made some + +_Japanese Wind Bells._--Probably most boys and girls have heard or seen +the jolly little "wind bells" which the Japanese people make, and which +many English folk now hang in their houses. As they are made simply of +slips of glass and pieces of wool or string, there is not much +difficulty in their construction; and they are worth all the trouble you +take, for their merry little tinkle is a pleasing sound. + +The slips of glass--they are generally little rectangles, varying from 1 +in. to 2 in. in width, and 2 in. to 4 in. in length--are suspended so +that when a gentle breeze disturbs them the corners strike gently. To +secure a proper suspension, you can either take a board, 6 in. square, +and hang the strings from it, or you can make a conical wire frame, +about 6 in. across, and hang the pieces of wool (or string) from the two +rings (Fig. 92). The pieces of glass, which can be of any shape and +size, should be fixed by means of sealing wax. It is usual to give the +glass slips a few dabs of colour, so as to give a brighter effect at +night. If you can introduce one or two pieces of coloured glass, the +same effect will result. + +[Illustration: FIG. 92.] + + +Other _broken_ things, too, can be turned to account. + +One such toy, made up of things otherwise quite useless, is + +_A Musical Box._--This entertaining musical toy, capable of producing +the most beautiful sound effects, can quite easily be made with a few +broken wine glasses. So long as the bowl part of the glass is intact, it +does not matter to what extent the stem or foot part has been damaged, +provided there is enough of the stem remaining to insert in a wooden +block. + +The sound effects are produced by rubbing the ball of the finger gently +round the rim of the glass. For this the finger-tip must be absolutely +clean, particularly of any grease, and must be thoroughly wet. Probably +for the first time or two of rubbing nothing will occur. If that is so, +continue wetting the finger, and rub it on an india-rubber sponge or a +piece of soft india-rubber. You will know at once when the finger-tip is +in the right condition, for it will commence to "drag" on the rim. +Eventually a most beautiful pealing note will be emitted, which note +will alter slightly in tone if water be poured into the glass. + +If in this way you can secure eight glasses tuned exactly to an octave, +then you have the wherewithal to produce tunes. When you have obtained +the glasses, then it is quite easy to fit them into a box quite close +together, leaving just enough room for the fingers to move round. Blocks +of wood must be nailed to the bottom of the box, and holes bored in +these blocks just exactly large enough to admit the stem (see Fig. 93). + +[Illustration: FIG. 93.] + + +_A Fleet of Nutshell Boats_ floating on a bowl of water makes a very +pretty little picture--nor are these little crafts at all difficult to +make. For the hull a nice evenly-shaped walnut shell is required: this +should be cleaned out, trimmed with a sharp knife, and scrubbed with a +stiff brush. For the mast a match stick will suffice. To keep this in +position glue two match sticks right across the widest part of the +hull--one on each side of the mast--and then put a daub of glue at the +bottom of the hull and others where the cross-bars touch the mast. + +The sail consists merely of a piece of paper with two holes through +which the mast passes. A glance at Fig. 94 will reveal the method of +fitting up, and show what a trim little craft can result from such a +simple origin. + +[Illustration: FIG. 94.] + + +One other toy which has always been deservedly popular is + +_The Jumping Frog._--If you are skilful with your pocket knife you can +cut out a representation of the animal from a lump of wood, and paint it +to make it more realistic. If, however, you have not the requisite +skill, you can still construct the toy by using a walnut shell in place +of the carved model. In either case the actual mechanism for "jumping" +is the same. + +You want a good-sized shell, or rather half-shell, some very strong thin +twine, and a match. First you must bore two holes in the sides of the +shell, not too near the edge, then tie a loop of twine round the holes +and the edge (Fig. 95). Now if you put a piece of match stick between +the strings, and twist the string by turning the match round, you will +complete the jumping mechanism (Fig. 96). Keep your finger on the match +to prevent it flying back, and carefully turn the shell upside down on +the table, holding it all the time. Now if you press one finger on the +side of the shell so that it slips suddenly from under, then your frog +will perform an astounding leap in the air. But, in your eagerness to +get a big jump, do not twist the string too tightly, otherwise the holes +will break out. + +[Illustration: FIG. 95.] + +[Illustration: FIG. 96.] + +If, as mentioned above, you are skilful enough to cut out the frog, you +will need to hollow out the body so that there will be room for the +turning of the match. + +You can also do very much the same with a fowl's "wishbone" if you tie a +loop of string round the two prongs and use the match as shown above. + + +The shell of an ordinary hen's egg does not seem to give much scope for +construction. Yet much can be done with it. One of the best things you +can make is + +_An Egg-shell Yacht._--Next time mother is making cakes, or anything +which needs eggs, tell her you want the shell intact, and ask her to let +you blow out the contents. To do this, bore a small hole at each end, +and blow. Of course, if you have ever collected birds' eggs, and are an +adept at egg-blowing, you will only need one hole. + +Stop up the holes with sealing wax or plasticene. This complete shell is +to form the hull of the yacht; it will be necessary to add a keel, +mainmast, bowsprit, &c., to finish the craft. + +For the mainmast get a very thin piece of wood--a very thin piece of +bamboo or a piece of split cane will do--and pass it carefully through +two holes which have previously been bored in the opposite sides of the +shell. Let it project an inch or two below (Fig. 97_a_). Fix in position +by means of sealing wax. In similar fashion arrange a bowsprit. + +[Illustration: FIG. 97.] + +As the hull is very light, it will be necessary to have a good steadying +keel. A piece of sheet lead about 2 in. long and 1 in. wide will do +admirably. Secure it to the shell and the projecting piece of mainmast +by means of sealing wax (Fig. 97_b_). + +Now if this floats properly you can proceed with the rigging, which may +be as simple or as elaborate as you please. Fasten the spars to the +mainmast by means of very thin wire. (Sealing wax will do, but is not at +all reliable for this.) For the sails use tough tissue paper, gluing the +main and top sails in position, and fixing the jib and foresails by +means of threads. + +The addition of a cardboard rudder--fixed by wax--will complete a trim +little craft which will sail in approved regatta fashion, if it has been +properly adjusted (Fig. 98). + +[Illustration: FIG. 98.] + + +Nor must broken egg shells be despised. These can be decorated with +paints, and some very amusing little articles provided. Legs and arms +can be added, fixed into place with dabs of sealing wax; clothes can be +devised; and grotesque little toys improvised--toys suitable for the +decoration of the Christmas tree or sale at bazaars, &c. + + +Quite a number of amusing little toys can be made from those cylindrical +cardboard cases in which incandescent mantles are usually sold. For the +most part the only things needed for the construction are a sharp knife +(one with a very thin blade preferred), a tube of glue, one or two odd +pieces of cardboard, and some paints. + + +_A Money Box_, for instance, is always useful, and, by the aid of the +paint box, can be made very attractive. + +Take off the two end covers, and glue one end of the case to a circle of +thick cardboard, about 1/4 in. larger in radius than the case. Now for +the other end construct a conical top. To do this, draw out a circle +with a radius of about 1-1/4 in. and cut out a sector (see Fig. 9, p. +8). The two ends can then be brought together and fixed with a piece of +glued tape, and the whole thing can be glued to the other end of the +case. + +Before this is done, however, the money slot should be cut in the side. +Much can be done to make the article attractive by a judicious use of +the paints. The money slot, for instance, can be regarded as the mouth, +and a grotesque face drawn round it. + +If you care to cover the conical top with felt or flannel, you can make +the model very funny indeed. In the spring you can damp the felt or +flannel, and spread on grass seeds: these will grow and give your +grotesque figure a fine crop of bright green hair (Fig. 99). Of course, +if you are going to damp the upper parts of the model, you must obtain +and use some sort of waterproof glue. + +[Illustration: FIG. 99.] + + +_A Pin-hole Camera_ is another extremely simple yet extraordinarily +interesting contrivance (Fig. 100). + +[Illustration: FIG. 100.] + +For this you require two mantle cases, one just large enough to slide +easily into the other. Take the smaller one, and cover one end with +tissue paper. This must be done neatly and strongly, otherwise, as the +case slides up and down in the outer one, the tissue will tear. You +should draw out on the tissue a circle just as large as the end of the +case, and then all round, draw and cut little pointed tags to lap over +the edges and stick down (Fig. 101). + +[Illustration: FIG. 101.] + +One end of the outer case should be covered with thick brown paper in +just the same way, and a tiny pin hole pricked exactly in the centre of +the brown-paper end. + +Now if a lighted candle be placed near to the pin hole, and if the inner +case be moved to and fro till the right spot is found, an exact picture +of the candle flame will be seen on the tissue paper. + + +_A Doll's Easy Chair._--Apart from accurate and careful cutting there is +not very much difficulty in this. Take a mantle case and remove the +covers. Now draw a line from end to end and use this as a base line, +measuring the distances to right and left to the different points: this +will ensure accuracy. Fig. 102 shows one design suitable for the +purpose; but you will possibly like to make up your own. The fitting of +the seat is done as follows: On a piece of cardboard mark out a circle +having the same radius as the case, and another circle with a radius 1/8 +in. larger. Cut this out as shown in Fig. 103. Now cut a slot a little +more than half-way across the case from the front, at a level suitable +for the seat, and into this slide the seat. If the slot has not been cut +far enough across, go on cutting till the seat fits correctly in the +case. Then glue it in position. + +[Illustration: FIG. 102.] + +[Illustration: FIG. 103.] + +All that is now required is a coat of paint, and any ornamentation you +may care to add. + + +In conclusion we would point out once more what we stated at the +beginning--namely, that the examples given are intended merely to +suggest ways and means of making countless other articles. + + + Printed by The Edinburgh Art Printing Co. Ltd. + Edinburgh + + + + + * * * * * * + + + + +Transcriber's note: + +Illustrations have been moved to logical locations between +paragraphs. + +The following suspected error was changed in the text: on page +69, changed "somethng" to "something" + +*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 42278 *** |