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diff --git a/42278.txt b/42278.txt deleted file mode 100644 index 604192d..0000000 --- a/42278.txt +++ /dev/null @@ -1,2306 +0,0 @@ -The Project Gutenberg eBook, Toy-Making at Home, by Morley Adams - - -This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with -almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or -re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included -with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org - - - - - -Title: Toy-Making at Home - How to Make a Hundred Toys from Odds and Ends - - -Author: Morley Adams - - - -Release Date: March 8, 2013 [eBook #42278] - -Language: English - -Character set encoding: ISO-646-US (US-ASCII) - - -***START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK TOY-MAKING AT HOME*** - - -E-text prepared by Chris Curnow, Erica Pfister-Altschul, and the Online -Distributed Proofreading Team (http://www.pgdp.net) from page images -generously made available by Internet Archive (https://archive.org) - - - -Note: Project Gutenberg also has an HTML version of this - file which includes the original illustrations. - See 42278-h.htm or 42278-h.zip: - (http://www.gutenberg.org/files/42278/42278-h/42278-h.htm) - or - (http://www.gutenberg.org/files/42278/42278-h.zip) - - - Images of the original pages are available through - Internet Archive. See - https://archive.org/details/toymakingathomeh00adamiala - - - - - -TOY-MAKING AT HOME - -How to Make a Hundred Toys from Odds and Ends - -by - -MORLEY ADAMS - - - - - - - -New York -Frederick A. Stokes Company -Publishers - -Printed in Great Britain. - - - - -PREFACE - - -This work has been compiled with the assistance of Mr. Walter Higgins, -the well-known instructor in woodwork. - -The volume fulfils a long-felt want in that it supplies fascinating -amusement for evenings at home. The making of toys is an engrossing -pastime, and the home-made toy is invariably more novel than the -shop-bought article and of superior quality, besides which there is -always a satisfaction in "I made it myself." - -The purpose of the book is to give simple and easily understood -instructions and plain diagrams and sketches for making toys from the -odds and ends that are usually discarded as useless. Matches, Match -Boxes, Cotton Reels, Cocoa Tins, Cigar Boxes, and even Egg Shells -comprise the materials from which are evolved Shops, Working Models, -Dolls' Furniture, Boats, Steam Engines, Windmills, and scores of other -toys dear to the hearts of boys and girls. - -Perhaps the chief charm of the occupation is that literally dozens of -toys can be made at a cost of less than a penny. Every toy described in -this book is practicable, and can be easily made by anyone possessing -the smallest amount of handicraft skill. At the same time the -instructions are such as will prove of the utmost value to instructors -of handicraft classes. - - MORLEY ADAMS. - - - - -TOY-MAKING AT HOME - - - - -TOYS FROM ODDS AND ENDS - - -In every household there are countless things which are thrown away -immediately they have served one purpose. Cotton-reels may be taken as -an instance. It does not occur to the majority of people that these -little wooden articles, strongly made and well finished, may be put to -some use, even when the cotton has been wound from them. Yet from them -quite useful furniture can be made and playthings innumerable. And -so it is with many other things--match boxes, broken clothes pegs, -cocoa tins, mustard tins, egg shells, cigar boxes, nut shells, corks, -incandescent-mantle cases, old broom handles: there is no end to the -list. - -In the following pages we have set out to explain, largely to boys and -girls, just how these odds and ends may be used for the construction of -toys, games, and interesting models. The list is not by any means -complete: such examples as are given are merely suggestive examples. The -boy or girl who has patiently and thoughtfully made some of them will be -in a position to devise and construct many more on similar lines. - - -Most boys and girls are familiar with those little _paper windmills_, -which turn round gaily in the gentlest breeze--the ones which the -rag-and-bone man gives in exchange for an old bottle. They make a -capital toy for baby brothers and sisters, and they are very easy to -make. All you need is a six-inch square of stiff paper--coloured for -preference--and two pieces of cardboard, each an inch square. First, you -draw out your square as in Fig. 1, and then cut down the diagonals -nearly to the centre square. Now take hold of a corner, and fold it over -to the centre. Secure it there with a small dab of glue. Serve each of -the other corners in turn in similar fashion. Now glue on your two -cardboard squares--one at the centre of the back and the other in the -front, covering the folded corners (Fig. 2). All you need now is a stout -pin to push through the centre of the cards into the end of a stick. - -[Illustration: FIG. 1.] - -[Illustration: FIG. 2.] - -Now if you nail two strips of wood in the form of a cross, and pin on -four or five differently coloured wheels, you will have a jolly little -toy for which baby will thank you (Fig. 3). - -[Illustration: FIG. 3.] - -_N.B._--We shall frequently mention the word "glue" in the course of -this little volume: therefore we had better explain just what we mean. -Unless we state definitely otherwise, we refer to the prepared glue sold -in tubes under various names--"Seccotine," "Le Page's Liquid Glue" and -so on. These adhesives are admirable for all light work. They act best -when put on thinly, and allowed partially to dry before the parts are -pressed together. - - -A very interesting little toy, which you can make in a few minutes, is -the - -_Colour Wheel._--Take a piece of white cardboard, and from it cut a -circle about 3 inches across. Now from the middle of this cut another -circle about 3/4 in. across. This can be done quite easily by putting a -sharp-pointed knife blade into the compass in place of a pencil. - -Divide the circle into seven equal parts, and paint or crayon the -sections with the colours of the rainbow--red, orange, yellow, green, -blue, indigo, violet. - -When this is dry, make a large loop of string and put it through the -round hole of the card; and hold the ends of the loop one in each hand. -Now if you turn the string at one end as if you were turning a skipping -rope, and then suddenly pull it tight, your card will revolve very -rapidly, and you will find that instead of a coloured card you have what -appears to be a light grey one. This is really a little piece of -science, for it shows that the white light about us is really made up of -the different colours of the rainbow (Fig. 4). - -[Illustration: FIG. 4.] - - -_A simple Counting Top._--Take a piece of cardboard, and on it draw two -hexagons having 1-inch sides. To draw a hexagon, first draw a circle -with its radius equal to the length of the side of the hexagon. Then -without altering the compass measure off the radius six times round the -circumference, and join the neighbouring points. Now cut out each of -these and from each one cut out one triangular section (Fig. 5). Scratch -lightly along the other lines with the back of the knife-point. Now bend -these so as to form two five-sided pyramids. Close up the open space by -binding the edges together with a strip of gummed paper (Fig. 6). When -you have done this, place the two pyramids base to base, and secure them -by means of small strips of gummed paper fixed along the edges. Bind all -the edges in similar fashion for the sake of uniformity. All that is -necessary now is to make a hole at the apex of each pyramid, and push an -ordinary safety match through (Fig. 7). Now if you twirl the match in -your fingers, and release it suddenly, the top will spin for quite a -long time. To use it as a "counting top" or "dice top" paint the numbers -1 to 5 on the five triangular surfaces of the upper pyramid. Then when -the top ceases spinning, the uppermost number is the one which counts. - -[Illustration: FIG. 5.] - -[Illustration: FIG. 6.] - -[Illustration: FIG. 7.] - - -_Tents for Toy Soldiers._--Boys who play with lead soldiers often find -that, in making up a game, they require some tents for the camp. These -are quite easily made either from paper or from calico. Their size will -depend, of course, upon the size of the soldiers; and it will be quite -easy to construct them to measure two or three times the measurements -given here. Here is a picture of one (Fig. 8). - -[Illustration: FIG. 8.] - -First cut out a cardboard circle for the base of the tents, say 2 in. -radius. Now for the sloping canvas sides--the conical part, that -is--draw out another circle, this time with a radius of 4 in. Only a -part of this will be used; and to know just how much, roll the base -circle round the circumference of the larger circle until it has -completed one of its own revolutions (see Fig. 9). In cutting this out, -one or two tongues should be left jutting out from the circumference: -these fold over the edge of the base circle and secure the sloping sides -in position. All we need now is a thin stick, about 4 in. long, to act -as a centre pole. This should be glued to the centre of the base, and -should have the sloping sides glued around it. A little paper flag at -the top will complete the little structure. - -[Illustration: FIG. 9.] - - -Most boys, and not a few girls, love to play at "soldiers" and there is -no reason why each boy should not make himself a complete suit of -armour, so that the game may be more real. - -_The Helmet._--With care this is not at all difficult to make: what -difficulty there is lies in the adjustment and the size. First it is -necessary to find out the distance round the head. This can be done -with a piece of string; or, better still, with a linen inch-tape. -Suppose the distance round is 21 in.: then the helmet can be made in -seven sections, each 3 in. wide at the base. When these are brought -together, they converge at the top to form a typical Norman headpiece -(Fig. 10). - -[Illustration: FIG. 10.] - -Using stiff paper, cut the seven sections as in Fig. 11. These should be -glued together, so that the connecting flanges are inside. (_N.B._--In -doing this, it is very necessary to let the glue get nearly dry before -pressing the pieces together: if it is quite fresh, the strain will pull -the pieces apart.) Then at the apex of the sections glue on a circular -piece of cardboard, about 1-1/2 in. across. For the ring at the base, -cut a strip, just about 22 in. long, and having ornamented it in any -fashion you please, glue the two ends together so as to form a circlet -which will just go round the sections. Fix this to the seven sections -with dabs of glue. - -[Illustration: FIG. 11.] - -All that is necessary now is a coating of aluminium paint to give just -that real dull metallic appearance. If this paint is not available, you -can cover with silver paper, but this is not nearly as effective. - - -_The Breastplate._--While there is really less to do, and fewer sections -to adjust, this presents quite as much difficulty as the helmet. It is -best made in two sections. The exact shape can only be decided by trial: -roughly, it is that shown in Fig. 12. The best method of procedure is to -cut out two of these in newspaper, and fix them together with doll-pins, -and then try them on in much the same way as a tailor fits a -waist-coat--altering pins and cutting out shapes until the requisite fit -is obtained. When this is done the two final sections can be cut out in -cardboard (not omitting flanges), glued together and painted. If you are -good at painting, you can ornament the two sides with a heraldic device -in crimson or gold. - -[Illustration: FIG. 12.] - -To fix it, when wearing, strings are used. Small holes are bored at the -four ends (and eyelets fixed in, if you can do so) and knotted strings -passed through. Tie the bottom pair across the back with a knot (not a -"grannie"). Now take one of the ends of this, and tie it with a string -from one of the shoulder pieces. If the other shoulder piece be tied in -similar fashion to the other back string, then the breastplate will be -held correctly in position. The strings and all the back gear will be -covered by the cloak and mantle, similar to that which knights in olden -days wore over their armour. - -Before you put the breastplate on you can tie a towel or apron to come -just to the knees: this will take the place of the "surcoat" (and serve -to hide your knickers). - -For "greaves" or leg-armour you can cut out and paint cardboard shapes, -like those shown in Fig. 13. These, when fixed with string, look quite -well. - -[Illustration: FIG. 13.] - - -While we are talking of soldiers, we may as well give details of - -_A War Game._--Most boys are familiar with the game known as -"Tiddley-winks," in which the object is to make small bone counters hop -into a cup by pressing their edges with a large bone counter. - -These materials can be used for a very interesting war game, consisting -of the siege of a fort. The fort is simply a front elevation, similar to -that shown in Fig. 14. This is drawn out in pencil on a piece of stout -cardboard (or fretwood) and coloured in with paints or crayons. The -windows are then cut out; and the whole thing made to stand upright by -the addition of two or three triangular supports (Fig. 15). These are -hinged on to the back by means of strong tape or canvas, so that the -whole thing can pack up flat. - -[Illustration: FIG. 14.] - -Each player in turn places his small counters (generally six) anywhere -in front of the fortress. He is now the attacking party, and his object -is to shoot his counters through the different windows. If he succeeds -in sending a counter through a window, then he "kills" that number of -the enemy. The winner may be either the person who secures the greatest -number of "kills" in a certain number of attempts--twenty-four, for -instance--or the person who first succeeds in scoring say 50 "kills." -Any shot missing the fort entirely--_i.e._ going right over or missing -at the sides--is a wasted shot, and counts one off the player's score. - -[Illustration: FIG. 15.] - - -We propose to describe how to construct a simple - -_Toy Cannon_--one quite easily made at a negligible cost and yet quite -effective. The only extra cost will be that of a piece of strong -elastic: the remainder being made of such things as cigar-or -chocolate-box wood. Fig. 16 shows the finished article; and a careful -study of this illustration will make clear much of the method of -manufacture. - -[Illustration: FIG. 16.] - -We commence with the stand. This is quite simple, being composed of five -pieces of cigar-box wood, a rectangular base, two sides cut as shown, -and two small end-pieces to give the sides stability. The measurements -you can decide for yourself: we suggest a base 5 in. long and 2 in. -wide, and side about 2-1/2 or 3 in. high, as being suitable to the -thickness of cigar-box wood. - -The cannon itself is not very difficult, if made square instead of -cylindrical. The barrel is composed of four pieces of thin wood glued -together as shown in Fig. 17. The pieces are about 6 in. long, and are -cut and fitted to such a width as will leave a square hole in which the -rod can move easily. On the under side of this barrel are fixed two -pieces of wood--one about 1-1/2 in. long and 3/4 in. wide at the end -near the mouth: to this the elastic will be fixed. The other, a piece -about 1-1/4 in. long and square in section, is fixed about midway along -the barrel, and will act as an axle on which the cannon can swing. - -[Illustration: FIG. 17.] - -The rod by which the shot is ejected should be square in section, and -about 5 in. long. At the rear end of it should be fixed two side-pieces -to act as stops to prevent the elastic forcing the rod too far into the -barrel. A nail driven through these two pieces will prevent the elastic -slipping out each time the cannon is fired (Fig. 18). - -[Illustration: FIG. 18.] - -All that remains now is the fixing of the elastic. It should be slipped -through the slot at the end of the rod, and the two ends fixed as shown -in the first illustration. - -If desired, this cannon can be used in connection with the skittles as -described on page 30, and in fact the pegs can be quite easily carved -into the similitude of soldiers and used for the game. It can also find -a place in the "cokernut shy" described on page 31. - - -Have you ever tried - -_Making Pictures with Matches?_--This is a very interesting occupation, -and one which will fully test your ingenuity and your patience. Instead -of using lines drawn with a crayon to suggest a certain object, you -replace these lines with match sticks, bent and straight, and so obtain -nearly the same effect. You can start with the plain outline of some -simple object such as a sailing boat or a truck or a house, and you can -then proceed to more difficult shapes, learning how to suggest masses of -shadow by placing match sticks closely together. - -In actual practice, you get a large sheet of brown paper, and move the -matches about until the right position is obtained: then you fix the -matches to the paper one by one by means of a dab of glue. In time you -will astonish everybody (yourself included) by the ease with which you -can build up really intricate pictures. Specimens accurately done and -tastefully mounted make very acceptable little presents (Fig. 19). - -[Illustration: FIG. 19.] - - -Deft fingers and a big fund of patience render it quite possible to -construct - -_Models from Match Sticks_, with the aid of just one or two accessories -such as paper and glue. Placed side by side, and glued to each other, -and to a cardboard or paper foundation, matches (particularly the larger -sort) give quite an impression of solidity--which you will notice if you -refer to the picture of the cupboard given in Fig. 20. In this a -cardboard foundation is made according to Fig. 21, and the matches cut -to the correct lengths and glued into position. In making the -foundation, draw out carefully as shown, cut through the plain lines, -and scratch along the dotted lines. Then bend into shape, and secure by -means of strips of gummed tape or paper. - -[Illustration: FIG. 20.] - -[Illustration: FIG. 21.] - -To suggest the panel in the door, glue matches round the outside edges -as shown, and leave the cardboard showing in the centre. If you want the -door to open outwards, you will have to bevel the edges of the two -matches where the cupboard bends, because, by the nature of the model, -the hinge (that is, the cardboard itself) is on the inside. - -In similar fashion you can make countless little objects--all varieties -of dolls' furniture and fittings, money boxes, trinket cases, &c. If the -matches are stained with bright colours, and tastefully arranged, and -the whole varnished, some splendid effects can be obtained. - - -Talking thus of matches leads us to the description of another model in -connection with the same articles. This is a - -_Novel Match Striker._--Any article which is useful makes a desirable -present, especially if it has about it a certain amount of novelty. For -instance, a match holder makes a nice little gift, and is generally -appreciated. If, however, it is of a type which the recipient has never -seen, it will be doubly welcome. - -One rather novel match holder and striker can be made in the following -way. Obtain a funny picture--for preference, one that has a large figure -in the foreground. Fig. 22 shows the type of picture we mean. Glue this -on to a piece of stout cardboard. Suppose the picture shows a man's -head. Then let his beard act as the striker. To secure this, cut out a -piece of fine sandpaper, exactly the shape of the man's beard (or -whatever it may be), and glue it into position on the picture. Then at -the side glue on a little holder for the matches. This can be made of -cardboard specially, or an ordinary match-box cover can have the bottom -stopped, and be glued on. As far as possible this should be a part of -the picture. - -[Illustration: FIG. 22.] - -All sorts of pictures can be done in this fashion: dogs, with strikers -on the tail; pigs, with strikers on the back; elephants; grotesque men, -&c. - -If you like you can glue the picture on to fretwood, and cut out the -figure or a part of it, and arrange it, so that it will stand upright on -a wooden base. This will tax your own ingenuity. - -There is in every house one thing out of which the enterprising boy or -girl can make any number of models and toys: that is the empty match -box. Its shape and formation lend themselves to the construction of all -sorts of things--houses, trams, dolls' furniture, &c. &c.--the only -other requisites being a sharp knife, a ruler, one or two pieces of -cardboard (or better still, thin pine veneer), a number of large matches -(or better still, match stales).[1] - - [1] These match "stales," which are very useful in toy-making, - can be purchased from Byrant & May, Fairfield Works, Bow, - London, E., at 1s. per bundle of 1500. The pine veneer costs 1s. - 6d. per dozen pieces, each 3 ft. 6 in. long. - - -You can start with the simplest form of - -_Railway Truck_, consisting merely of the inner part, or tray of a match -box, with two match-stick axles glued across the bottom, and four -cardboard wheels secured in position by means of "doll pins" (Fig. 23); -and then you can proceed to the most elaborate vehicles, bridges, -buildings, furniture, machines, &c. - -[Illustration: FIG. 23.] - - -To give an idea of the method, we show how to put together a small -overhead - -_Tram Car._--In the first place you want two pieces of veneer or -cardboard, measuring 11-1/4 by 4-3/4 in. and 11-1/4 by 5 in.--to act -respectively as the lower and upper decks. The actual method of -construction can best be understood by a careful study of Fig. 24. The -lower deck rests on four cardboard wheels. These are fixed by means of -doll pins to two wooden axles (match stales) glued right across the -under side of the lower deck. On this the structure is built up with -match boxes. Three covers are placed lengthways along each side and -glued into position. Then above these come five match trays, which, when -standing up, take up just the same space. These are glued into position, -facing outwards, and projecting about 1/4 in. beyond the under covers. - -[Illustration: FIG. 24.] - -Across the top of the two sides so formed is glued the second sheet of -veneer or cardboard, 11-1/4 by 5 in., to form the upper deck. Five -covers placed end to end exactly make up a side for this, and one at -each end completes the superstructure. Two covers, placed end to end, -make a suitable back and front for the lower deck, while two pieces of -veneer, 3-3/4 by 4-1/2 in., effectively close up the inside of the car. - -The trolley pole is provided by a wooden skewer, glued to the lower -deck, and passing through a hole in the centre of the upper. That -completes the tram for all practical purposes. If you desire to make -your model more elaborate, you can construct a cardboard or wooden -stairway at each end, connecting the upper and lower decks; and you can -replace the sheets of veneer at each end of the inside by properly -constructed doorways; and so on. - - -Another excellent toy, constructed with match boxes--and one very much -appreciated by little brothers and sisters--is the - -_Model Stores._--Once again this will be best understood by reference to -the illustration (Fig. 25). The stores consist of a counter and a back -fitment--the two mounted on a base board. For the counter, five -complete match boxes should be glued side by side and then mounted on -six empty covers. The trays of the five complete boxes should then be -given handles to make them into drawers. For these handles nothing can -beat a boot button. The small metal loop is pushed through a hole in the -end of the tray, and then secured in position by means of a tiny wooden -wedge pushed through the loop on the inside. - -[Illustration: FIG. 25.] - -The back fitment consists of a block of twenty covers, five in a row, -and four rows deep. These are glued into position. The two lower rows -are deprived of their trays to make storage partitions, and the two -upper are fitted with handles as above. Surmounting this block is an -upper fitment consisting of five trays glued together so as to stand -upright at the back of the block, leaving a free shelf in front (as in -most grocers' shops). Finally there is a row of three trays placed -endways on the top of the five just mentioned. - -For "playing at shops" a little model like this is invaluable. - - -_A Red-Cross Cart._--For this a large empty match tray is required. -Across the under side a short length of match stale is glued, to act as -an axle for the two wheels. These can be cut from either veneer or -cardboard. A good plan is to cut out a circle in fairly stiff cardboard, -and glue a covering of veneer on each side; this adds to the appearance -of the wheel and makes it stiffer. If veneer alone is used, two circles -must be cut out for each wheel, and glued together with the grain at -right angles. The wheels should be fixed in position with doll pins. - -For the tilt a piece of veneer bent over and glued to the inner sides of -the match box will do quite well. The red cross may be painted on, but -will look considerably better if cut from some light red paper and -stuck on. All that remains is to supply the shafts. For this two pieces -of stale of the requisite length should be glued to the under side of -the body of the cart. Fig. 26 shows the completed model. - -[Illustration: FIG. 26.] - - -Another military model, slightly more difficult to adjust, is - -_A Maxim Gun._--For this two wheels, each about 2-1/2 in. across, must -be constructed in the manner described above. - -The body of the machine is easier to make than describe. Fig. 27 shows -the under side. A small match box is taken and along one long edge of -the top a piece of stale is glued, projecting 1/4 in. at each end. This -stale is the axle. Two full-length stales are then glued so that they -meet at the end furthest from the axle. To render these projecting -pieces more stable, a triangular piece of veneer is glued across them at -the place of meeting. - -[Illustration: FIG. 27.] - -The two wheels are then fixed in position by means of doll pins. For the -front of the machine a screen is required, and a piece of veneer or card -is cut as shown in Fig. 28, and glued to the front edge of the match -box. Through the hole in this screen will project the actual gun itself. -For this a piece of wooden skewer or slender dowel will do. This can be -attached to the top of the box by means of glue, and can be wedged up -into a horizontal position if found to slant too much. - -[Illustration: FIG. 28.] - -A coat of dull grey paint will add greatly to the realistic appearance -of this interesting little toy. - - -Many other things can be made, too, for use when playing with toy -soldiers. One such model is - -_A Step Bridge_, as shown in Fig. 29. This is a very pretty little -model, and one quite delightful to make. For it we require four 1-3/4 -in. or 2-1/4 in. match boxes, a piece of cardboard or veneer, and some -match stales. - -[Illustration: FIG. 29.] - -The cardboard should be cut to the width of the match box that is, -either 1-3/4 in. or 2-1/4 in., and to a length of 4-1/2 in. At each end -of this should be glued the side of a match box. In this way the actual -bridge itself is formed. The step is provided at each end by a match -box, lying down, and glued to the standing box. - -The remaining task is the cutting and fitting of the match stales to -provide the railings--and this is the part requiring great care. -Reference to the sketch will give a much better idea of the design than -any amount of explanation. The stales will be cut to the following -lengths: two at 4-1/2 in., eight at 2-1/2 in., and four at 2 in. You can -finish off your model by pointing some of the stales; but this is not -at all necessary if you have used a sharp knife and made clean cuts. If -in fitting up the stales you find the glue is not sufficient, you can -strengthen the important joints by use of doll pins. - - -One other splendid use to which match boxes and stales can be put is the -provision of the lighter sorts of furniture for the dolls' house. We -give two examples typical of the extent to which these simple materials -may be applied. - -_A Doll's Umbrella Stand_ is a very happy little idea--very simple but -extremely effective. At the two ends of a small match-box tray, long -stales are glued, projecting underneath to act as short legs to keep the -tray from the ground. Near the top of these upright stales, four others -are fixed to act as a strengthening frame. These last should be secured -in place with doll pins in addition to the ordinary dab of tube glue. -Then across the frame so made should be fixed one or two short lengths -of stale in order to divide the stand into two or three compartments. -Fig. 30 shows the completed stand. - -[Illustration: FIG. 30.] - - -_A Doll's Fender_ is another article of similar type. For this we -require a cardboard or veneer base and a number of stales. The base is -cut out so as to measure at the most 5 in. in length; 5 in. by 1-1/4 in. -is a very suitable size. Now on three sides this will have a rail, -constructed with stales alone. A pillar is required about 1/8 in. from -each corner: this pillar should be about 3/4 in. high. Stretching from -pillar to pillar and glued to the base will be three pieces--one a long -one, approximately 4-1/2 in. long, and the other two short ones, about -3/4 in. in length. Above these, and not far below the tops of the -pillars, will be fixed a parallel series of long and short rails, fixed -into position with doll pins and glue. Very short pieces glued into an -upright position between the two long parallel rails add to the -stability of the structure and improve the appearance (Fig. 31). If you -can stain the different pieces with black and brown to represent iron -and copper, then a very effective representation of a fender will be -obtained. - -[Illustration: FIG. 31.] - -With a little ingenuity a set of fireirons--poker, tongs, and -shovel--can be devised and constructed from match stales. - - -In similar fashion countless other objects can be copied in miniature -with most pleasing results. We have not space here to detail the -construction of any more; but we would suggest that some of the -following might be attempted: bedstead, table, chair, deck chair -(folding), camp bed (folding). - -The construction of one or two of these will doubtless suggest many -more, and reveal to the reader the boundless possibilities of this -peculiarly fascinating pastime. - - -There is another broken household article on which the young toy-maker -may not cast eyes of scorn, and that is the broken clothes peg. In -skilful hands, this is capable of reconstruction to very useful ends. - -In the first place, if you can use a pocket-knife with some degree of -skill, you will be able to chip out of a few broken pegs quite a -respectable set of - -_Chess Men._--The pegs must be sawn across cleanly just through the -centre of the knob end: they will then stand upright. A few clean cuts -with a pocket-knife will quite easily suggest a king or a castle or a -bishop. The knight will, of course, provide most in the way of -difficulty--as he is generally shown with a horse's head. A few -painstaking attempts, however, should result in the obtaining of a -credible likeness. Fig. 32 shows the construction of a "pawn." - -[Illustration: FIG. 32.] - - -_Skittle Men._--Another piece of work for the pocket-knife expert is the -provision of a set of funny skittle men for use in the game of catapult -skittles (see below). These can be cut out to any quaint shape, and may -be caricatures of well-known people, or of trades, &c. Much amusement -can be got out of the cutting and painting of these grotesque little -figures. Hats can be provided for them by glueing on little rings of -cardboard (Fig. 33). - -[Illustration: FIG. 33.] - - -_A Catapult Game._--Probably every boy knows what a catapult is--and -what fun there is in the using of it. Happy young fingers pull back the -powerful elastic, and bright eyes watch the stone go whizzing away. -There is a fluttering of white wings: something falls; and there, lying -in the road, is a motionless lump of flesh and feathers--all that -remains of what was a beautiful little bird, pouring out its heart in -joyful song. - -Boys who think for a minute will not want to use the catapult in that -cruel fashion: they will prefer a game in which no harm is done, in -which no innocent creature is harmed, but which provides just as much -fun. "Catapult skittles" is such a game. - -It consists simply of a board with a catapult at one end, and a set of -skittles at the other. The broken peg skittles dealt with above will do -admirably for this (Fig. 34). - -The catapult itself can also be made with two pegs. These should be cut -off cleanly at the forks. Two holes, about 3 in. apart, should then be -bored in the base board (for this, a piece of plank about 3 ft. or 4 ft. -long will do quite well), and the pegs screwed on (see Fig. 39 on page -34). - -[Illustration: FIG. 34.] - -For ammunition all you need is an unlimited number of little pieces of -cardboard, folded in two. These carry well, are quite heavy enough to -upset the skittles, and, above all, are not likely to hurt, even if they -do strike a player. - -If you wish to vary the game slightly, you can rig up a "cokernut shy" -in place of the skittles. This you will find very popular at Christmas -time, particularly if you play for the nuts. - -For this you want some wire hoops on which to stand the nuts. To make -these, take a piece of stiff wire about 5 in. long and bend one end in -the shape of a small circle, about 1/2 in. across. Now bend this loop so -that it is at right angles to the wire; then when the wire is upright -the circle will be horizontal (Fig. 35). Sharpen the other end with a -file. Make three or four like this, and then some more an inch shorter, -and a third lot two inches shorter. These must then be driven into the -other end of the catapult board so that they are not too close together; -otherwise the game is too easy. - -[Illustration: FIG. 35.] - -Now all you need is a cardboard shelter. This can be oblong at the ends -and triangular at the sides; but the shape is quite immaterial so long -as the "shy" is properly shut in. Fig. 36 shows a suitable arrangement. - -[Illustration: FIG. 36.] - - -Another tip-top game, for the making of which you can use broken clothes -pegs, is the "_ring-board_" or "_indoor quoits_." This consists simply -of a board with a number of pegs projecting from it. The object of the -game is to throw a number of rings in such a fashion that they will -lodge on the pegs, scoring points according to the numbers marked at -each peg. The board may be hung on the wall, or else placed flat on the -floor. In the former case, the pegs must have a slightly upward slant, -so that the rings will not tumble off easily; in the latter the rings -must be upright. - -To make either game, obtain a piece of wood about 18 in. square. You -will probably need to join up boards for this. If you get three pieces -of 6-in. board, each 18 in. long, and secure these side by side by means -of a couple of battens, nailed right across the back, the result will be -a square of the right size (Fig. 37). - -[Illustration: FIG. 37.] - -Now mark out the board as in Fig. 38. At the points where the dotted -lines cross you will fix the projecting pegs. - -[Illustration: FIG. 38.] - -For these last take some broken pegs, and saw them off cleanly, just -above the fork. If the board is to be a ground board, cut them quite -level; if an upright board, then slightly slanting (Fig. 39). These must -be secured in place by long thin screws driven in from the back--the -correct holes having been bored in the base board. Now give each peg a -number--assigning the higher numbers to the more difficult pegs--and -paint the number on the back board close to the peg. - -[Illustration: FIG. 39.] - -For rings various things can be used. Old brass curtain rings are -suitable in some respects, especially for the ground game, but they are -very noisy. Thick india-rubber rings are frequently used, and can be -purchased quite cheaply at any "games" shop. Rings made of stout cord, -or thin rope, are frequently played with, especially on board ship, -where the ground game is very popular. Should there be any difficulty in -obtaining or making any of these, then it is a very simple matter to cut -rings from a sheet of thick cardboard. - -The great objection to the upright game is the nuisance of the falling -rings. This may be avoided partly by constructing a cardboard "catcher" -to fit underneath. This is simply a cardboard triangle, or rather two -right-angled triangles joined together by tape so as to bend easily and -be strong: these are nailed to the two under edges of the board (Fig. -40). - -[Illustration: FIG. 40.] - - -Another splendid shooting toy is the _Dart Box_. For this you need a -wooden box of some sort. Size and shape do not matter very much, but a -box with ends roughly square would do best: one 15 in. long, 6 in. wide, -and 6 in. deep would be admirable for the purpose. - -On the inside of one end paint a target, and number each division, -assigning higher numbers to the spots more difficult to hit (Fig. 41). -Now in the centre of the opposite end bore a circular hole with a -diameter of about 3/8 in.; and across this, on the outside of the box, -fasten a strong piece of ribbon elastic--nailing down each end with a -piece of wood (Fig. 42). For the dart, take a butcher's wooden skewer, -and into the pointed end introduce a piece of a stout needle. - -[Illustration: FIG. 41.] - -[Illustration: FIG. 42.] - -When shooting with this toy, hold the box firmly, open the lid, fit the -dart in the hole from the inside, and draw back the elastic. When you -have taken careful aim, close down the lid and let go. - -This is a capital toy, and provides endless amusement. Also it is a very -desirable one as far as shooting is concerned, for the closing down of -the lid ensures perfect safety. - - -While talking of making things from clothes pegs, we may as well give -particulars of one or two things which will appeal rather more to our -girl readers. - - -_A Key Rack_ such as that shown in Fig. 43 is just such an article as a -girl would take a delight in making, because of its simplicity and its -prettiness. - -[Illustration: FIG. 43.] - -The only materials required are two pegs, some hooks, and a length of -ribbon. Take the two pegs--which should be nicely turned ones--and wedge -the prongs one within the other so that the pegs remain fixed at right -angles. In doing this, push the pegs in tightly, but take care not to -split the pegs in so doing. Using a bradawl, make a hole through the -junction of the prongs, and screw in a hook: the common sort as used on -dressers, &c., will do quite well. Now bore holes midway between the -junction and the knobs, and screw in two more hooks. - -If now a coat of enamel be given to the pegs--say green in colour--and -if ribbons (pale blue) be tastily arranged as shown in the sketch, then -a very pretty and useful little article will result. - - -Yet another splendid little article from pegs is a - -_Picture Postcard Stand_, for which the only necessities will be two -pegs and a piece of wood for a base (Fig. 44). - -[Illustration: FIG. 44.] - -This base should be about 4-1/2 in. long and about 2-1/2 in. wide. It -can be cut from wood of any thickness, but a piece about 3/8 in. thick -is the most suitable. Find the centre of each end edge of the base, and -draw a line right across the wood. If now you measure in one inch from -each end you will get the two spots to which to affix the pegs. - -These last must first of all have one prong removed, or rather enough of -a prong to leave a quarter-inch stump projecting. This stump should be -rounded with a sharp knife, and then the whole peg should be finished -off with glass-paper. These pegs must then be fixed knob downwards on to -the base. Fig. 39 on page 34 shows a suitable method for this. - -If you are at all skilful with your tools you will be able to cut a nice -moulding round the edge of the base, and so improve the artistic effect -of your model. - -Two thin coats of varnish, or of good enamel, will complete this -attractive little article. - - -One little wooden toy, quite interesting in itself, and very useful when -playing with "soldiers," is - -_The Windlass._--Some odd pieces of lath or cigar-box wood, a cotton -reel, a length of string, some stout wire, and some glue and pins, -provide all the necessaries. The cotton reel should be the largest -obtainable. - -Fig. 45 shows the completed work. First of all, make a square base for -the windlass. If the reel is 3 in. long, cut off four lengths of lath -(or four inch-strips of cigar-wood box) each 4 in. long, and glue these -into a hollow square, two under and two over. Now cut off two more -lengths, 3 in. long, for the upright supports--making the top ends -pointed to hold the slanting covers. - -[Illustration: FIG. 45.] - -Before these side-pieces are glued and pinned into position, it will be -necessary to insert the reel. Get a piece of skewer, or lead pencil, 4 -in. long, and glue it into the hole in the reel. At one end of the axle -so formed will be placed the handle. This can be made in several ways, -either with wood or wire, or a mixture of the two (Figs. 46, 47, 48 show -some varieties, which may also be useful in making other toys). Holes -just large enough to allow the axle to turn freely must then be cut in -the side supports. - -The two slanting covers should be about 4 in. long, so as to allow a -trifle to project at each end, and should be from 3/4 in. to 1 in. wide. -The two edges which meet to form the apex of the cover should be -bevelled off so as to form a clean join. - -In making this model it would perhaps be as well to use carpenter's glue -in place of the prepared stuff. - -[Illustration: FIG. 46.] - -[Illustration: FIG. 47.] - -[Illustration: FIG. 48.] - - -From the material supplied by one or two empty cigar boxes, many -interesting things can be made, especially articles for use with -dolls--cradles, carts, furniture, &c. If these articles are of no use to -you, they come in very handy for presents to little sisters and friends, -especially when well made and carefully finished. - - -_A Doll's Cradle_ is perhaps one of the simplest to commence with. To a -box from which the lid has been removed, it is only necessary to add two -rockers. These can be cut out from the lid by means of a fret saw, and -then smoothed down with glass-paper. Fig. 49 shows the best shape for -the rockers, which should be glued on about an inch from each end of the -box (Fig. 50). Great care should be taken that the two rockers are as -nearly alike as possible, otherwise the cradle will not swing to and fro -freely. - -[Illustration: FIG. 49.] - -[Illustration: FIG. 50.] - - -_A Doll's Cart_ is also comparatively easy to make, the only really -trying part being the cutting of the four wheels. - -For the body of the cart use a cigar box which has been deprived of its -lid, and planed down level round the edges. To the under side of this -body, and about one inch from each end, glue two pieces of wood to which -to fix the wheels. Strengthen these joins by means of short pins driven -through. Fix the wheels to these pieces by means of pins (Fig. 51). In -order to support these two wheel-holders, stretch another piece across -the space between them, at right angles to each, gluing it firmly to the -two centres. - -[Illustration: FIG. 51.] - -The wheels should be cut with a fret saw, if you possess one. If you do -not possess one, then draw out the circle on the wood, and cut the -square containing the circle. Then saw off the corners to form an -eight-sided figure, and go on cutting off corners until you get down to -the circle, which you can finish off with glass-paper (Fig. 52). - -[Illustration: FIG. 52.] - -A little hook or ring should be attached at the bottom of one end, in -order that a string may be tied on, and the vehicle drawn along. - - -_A Jack-in-the-Box._--One of the most old-fashioned of toys, this never -loses its interest. The box required for it is practically cubical: -therefore 6 four-inch squares of cigar-box wood must be cut out. Two of -these will need to be cut down to 3-3/4 in. in width, so that the -four-inch bottom and lid will fit: so from two squares cut a strip 1/4 -in. wide. Glue and pin together the two 3-3/4 pieces and two of the -four-inch pieces to form a hollow square. To this will be fixed one of -the other four-inch pieces to form a bottom; and at the other end the -remaining four-inch piece will be hinged (or wired on like the lid of a -chocolate box). - -Before the bottom is finally put on, it will be necessary to attach the -mechanism. For this you will require a strong piece of spring about 6 -in. long when released, and a doll's head. One end of the spring must be -fixed to the centre of the base. You can do this by means of tiny wire -staples (bent pins with the heads nipped off) hammered over the wire -into the base, and then bent back on the opposite side of the wood (Fig. -53). At the other end of the spring a piece of cardboard must be fixed, -and to it the doll's head must be firmly glued. When the mechanism is -complete, nail on the bottom, and fix the lid. - -[Illustration: FIG. 53.] - -Into the centre of the front edge of the lid drive a small nail, or -stout pin, and on the box just below fix a revolving catch hook. This -you can quite easily cut from an old piece of fairly thick tin (Fig. -54). In this way an effective means is provided of releasing the lid and -enabling the "Jack" to shoot out suddenly. - -[Illustration: FIG. 54.] - - -_The Jig-saw Puzzle_ was at one time a very popular toy, and there are -signs that its popularity is being revived. If it does not interest you -particularly, it will provide a little brother or sister with endless -amusement. - -In reality the puzzle consists merely of a picture (generally an -interesting coloured one) glued very firmly to a piece of fretwood or -cigar-box wood. This is then by means of a fret saw cut into a great -many pieces, shaped as quaintly and awkwardly as possible (see Fig. 55). -These pieces are then jumbled up into disorder, and passed on to the -little one in order that the shapes may be fitted into place and the -original picture reconstructed. - -[Illustration: FIG. 55.] - - -Somewhat after the style of the "jig-saw" puzzle just described is the - -_Geometrical Puzzle_ shown in Fig. 56. Each of these consists of a -capital letter divided up by one or two straight lines into right-angled -triangles and other geometrical shapes. While very simple to look at -when completed, these little puzzles are by no means easy to solve when -the odd pieces are given in a jumbled state. The capital letters should -be drawn on a piece of cigar-box wood, and then carefully cut out with a -fret saw, or, better still, with a tenon saw if you have one. If you -cannot manage wood, then the puzzle can be done in stout cardboard and -cut out with a sharp thin knife. - -[Illustration: FIG. 56.] - - -Of other cheaply made puzzles - -_The Reels and String Puzzle_ is highly entertaining. The only materials -required for it are the lid of a cigar box, two cotton reels, two -beads, and a length of smooth string or thin silk cord. The making is -simplicity itself. All you need do is cut the lid in halves and bore -three holes in a line in one of the halves. Of course you can ornament -your wood as much as you like, but that will in no way increase or -decrease the effectiveness of the puzzle. - -When you have cut it out and finished it off nicely with glass-paper, -thread the beads and reels as shown in Fig. 57. Take special care that -you do not make any mistake in the arrangement, or your solution will -result in a hopeless tangle. - -[Illustration: FIG. 57.] - -The object of the puzzle is to get the two cotton reels, which, as you -see, are now on quite separate loops, on to one loop. To solve it -proceed as follows: Take hold of the centre loop, and pull it down to -its full extent. Now pass the right-hand reel through the loop. Taking -care not to twist the cord, pass this loop through the hole on the -right-hand side, over the bead, and then draw it back again. - -Now if you follow the same procedure with the left-hand reel you will -find that the centre loop is released and can be pulled through the -centre hole. Then will the two reels slide down side by side. - - -One thoroughly entertaining and, to a certain extent, bewildering puzzle -is - -_The Three-hole Puzzle._--Really the puzzle consists of a piece of thin -wood with three holes cut in it. These three holes are respectively -circular, square, and triangular (Fig. 58). The problem is to cut one -block of wood which will pass through each hole and at the same time fit -the hole exactly. - -[Illustration: FIG. 58.] - -Can it be done? At first it looks to be quite impossible; but there is a -very neat solution to the difficulty. - -First cut out your holes. To do this get a cigar-box lid and draw out -the three figures, taking care that the length of the side of the square -and the length of the side of the triangle and the length of the -diameter of the circle are equal. Now, using your fret saw, cut out -these holes very neatly and precisely. - -For the block you need a small cylinder of wood: an odd piece of broken -broom handle will do admirably. This must be cut and finished with -glass-paper so that it will fit the circular hole exactly. Now saw a -piece just as long as the cylinder is wide. This looked at in one way -gives an exact square which will fit the second hole. Thus two holes are -catered for. - -Finally, for the third hole the cylinder must be tapered on two sides. -To do this draw a diameter at one end and then gradually pare away a -flat surface till the triangular section is obtained. - -Fig. 59 shows how the block, when turned in different ways, fits the -three holes. - -[Illustration: FIG. 59.] - - -Another toy which can be made quite easily from cigar-box wood is - -_A Model Signal._--First cut two strips of wood, half an inch wide and -as long as you can get them, which will be 8 or 9 in. These will stand -upright on a base board, and form the sides of the standard. Now between -these two you must glue shorter pieces of half-inch strip, so as to make -the standard solid at the top and bottom, and leave a hollow slot, 1 in. -long, in which the signal arm will fit and work up and down (Fig. 60). - -[Illustration: FIG. 60.] - -Now cut out and paint a signal arm, about 2-1/2 in. long. Fix this by -means of a pin passing through the two sides of the standard, and -through the arm about 3/4 in. from the square end. If it does not move -easily in the slot, take off the top surface with glass-paper. Before -fixing the signal arm in position, bore a small hole 1/4 in. from the -square end, and knot in a piece of twine or thin wire to act as a -connection between the movable arm and the controlling lever (Fig. 61). - -[Illustration: FIG. 61.] - -At the base of the standard fix the controlling lever. This consists of -a small strip, with a pin passing through one end into the standard. -Adjust the length of the twine or wire, so that when the signal arm is -down, the lever is horizontal; and when the lever is pressed down, the -arm rises. You can make a little contrivance for fixing the lever by -erecting a small post close to the standard, and gluing on two stops, -under which to rest the free end of the lever in its two positions (Fig. -62). - -[Illustration: FIG. 62.] - -If you prefer it, you can have the controlling lever at a distance from -the signal post. You will then need a longer wire, and a little pulley -wheel at the base of the standard. You must exercise your own ingenuity -for this. - - -Another interesting little scientific toy, which has the additional -advantage of being useful, is the _Weather House_, or the _Man and Woman -Barometer_. This consists of a little house with two doorways, at which -appear two figures, one in fine weather, and the other in dull (Fig. -63). - -[Illustration: FIG. 63.] - -With patience and care this is not very difficult to make. For the house -itself you can use an old cigar box, or, if you prefer it, you can make -the entire house in cardboard. This is, of course, easier, but not very -durable. If you are going to use the cigar box, you will need first to -cut the lid and bottom into something like the shape of a house end. You -will then have to nail the lid down, and add two slanting pieces for the -sides of the roof: and that will complete the house. - -However, before you nail down the lid and put on the roof, you will need -to understand the mechanism. First you will bore a round hole in the top -of the roof, just behind the front gable. This hole is for a round peg -to which the revolving base is attached. - -The actual mechanism of the toy consists of a piece of catgut (an old -violin string, or a tennis-racket string). This passes through the -centre of a small flat piece of wood on which the two figures are -balanced. Just in front of the string a piece of wire (a bent hairpin -will do admirably) is fixed, so as to form a loop through which the -catgut can pass (see Fig. 64). The other end of the catgut is fixed to -the peg which fits in the hole in the roof. - -[Illustration: FIG. 64.] - -For the man and woman you can use two of the grotesque figures cut from -clothes pegs. Screws passed through the revolving base will secure the -figures firmly and at the same time add a little weight, and so improve -the balance. - -When there is moisture in the air the catgut will twist. You must fit -together the different parts and then, by turning the peg to right or -left, adjust the position of the figures so that the lady appears in -fine weather and the gentleman in wet. - - -A toy of unfailing attraction for boys--and girls as well--is - -_The Marble Board._--This may be quite a simple affair--such as a boy -can carry in his pocket for use in the playground--just a piece of wood, -such as a cigar-box lid, with a number of holes cut along one edge, and -a handle added (Fig. 65); or it may be a much more elaborate form -intended for use as a table game. - -[Illustration: FIG. 65.] - -In this latter case there is a front board, similar to that in the -simple form; but behind each hole there is a little compartment for the -collection of the marbles (Fig. 66). To make this you need two pieces of -wood, about 2 in. wide, and as long as the table is broad: any sort of -wood will do. These are for the front and back of the contrivance. The -front must next be marked out for the marble holes, allowing about 1 in. -for the hole and 1 in. for the space between. Of course, the wider the -spaces between the more difficult it becomes to score. These holes must -then be cut out by means of a fret saw, or, if you do not possess one, -by means of saw and chisel. The back and front must then be secured in -position by means of end-pieces nailed or screwed on. These should be -about 3 in. long. - -[Illustration: FIG. 66.] - -The next piece of work is the adjustment of the partitions. For these -cigar-box wood is best. You can either cut these partitions to the exact -distance between the front and the back, and glue them into position; or -else you can make them a little larger, and fit them into grooves cut -into the front and back: but that is a nice little piece of carpentry -for you. - -When you have done this, all that is necessary is to give the whole -thing a coat of paint, and place numbers over the various holes--taking -care that you do not put all the high numbers together. - -Boards similar to this are used in the Colonies for a game known as -"Bobs." Larger balls are used, and propelled by means of a cue as in -billiards. If you can obtain the balls, this is a delightful game, and -one well worth making. - - -_A Wooden Wind Wheel_ for the garden is a splendid little model to -make--interesting in itself, but doubly desirable because so much can be -done with it. Of course, it can be made quite small and very simple, and -still provide unending amusement to smaller brothers and sisters; but -for our own purpose it is just as well to make a larger and stronger -specimen, one which can be employed as a power station for the working -of smaller toys. - -The main parts are: (1) a circular hub, about 2-1/2 to 3 in. in -diameter, and 1 to 1-1/4 in. in thickness (for the smaller varieties a -cotton reel will do admirably); (2) six or eight sails, each about 6 or -7 in. long and 3 in. wide at the extreme end, tapering down to a little -more than the width of the hub at the other; (3) a hardwood axle; and -(4) a driving wheel. For this last a cotton reel will do splendidly, -especially one of those with wide flanges and a slender centre. The -general arrangement is shown in Fig. 67. - -[Illustration: FIG. 67.] - -The cutting of the hub is not a very difficult matter if you have a fret -saw. It should be cut across the grain if you can get a suitable piece -of wood. The sails also are quite easy to make. For these you cannot -beat cigar-box wood. The cutting of the grooves in the hub for the -insertion of the sails is the most trying piece of work. These grooves -should be just large enough to allow the sails to fit tightly, and -should be cut at an angle of 45 deg. across the hub. The sails should -then be glued in with carpenter's glue. - -For the axle secure a piece of round wood, such as an odd length of -half-inch dowel-rod. This should be cut to a length of about 4-1/2 to 5 -in. On this should be fixed the wheel itself, and, at a sufficient -distance to prevent the sails catching the string, the bearing wheel. A -French nail in each end of the axle will then secure it in position -between the side supports and secure an easy running. - -If you have a play shed in the garden, this apparatus can be erected at -the top of a high post projecting through or at the side of the roof. -The driving strings can then pass through a hole in the roof or the -wall, and the power can be transmitted by a double pulley wheel and -another driving string. If you have no play shed, it is not at all -difficult to rig it up outside a window. You can try that, and prove -your own inventive abilities. - - -_How to use the Wind Power Machine._--One thing which this mechanism -will drive in good fashion is an overhead tramway system--a very pretty -little toy when in working order. - -For this all that is required is a number of cotton reels, a length of -stout cord, and one or two of the model trams described on page 21. If -you care to, you can make proper "standards" for the cotton reels. Fig. -68 shows such an arrangement. The flat base is for heavy weights when -the system is rigged up on a table or other place where nails cannot be -used. These reels must turn freely to allow the easy passage of the -cable. In one place there must be a double reel (Fig. 69) for the -transmission of the power. The lower reel will act as the ordinary cable -wheel, while the other, glued firmly to it, will carry the driving belt -from the wind machine described above. - -[Illustration: FIG. 68.] - -[Illustration: FIG. 69.] - -The model trams must be fixed to the cable. This is done by means of two -wires, fixed to the pole of the tram and twined round the cable. When -this is connected up and the cable drawn tightly round the standard -reels, the vehicles circulate rapidly on what is really a complete model -tramway system. - - -Another interesting contrivance to which the wind power can be harnessed -is - -_A Roundabout._--This attractive little toy can be made quite readily -from one or two reels, and four ordinary wooden skewers. - -The first thing required is a base board, for which any tolerably smooth -and heavy piece of wood will suffice. Now in the centre of this fix an -upright piece of thick wire (a knitting needle will do); and glue on a -cotton reel at the base of this. - -In order to secure the absolutely smooth running of the roundabout it -will be necessary to improvise some sort of "bearings." For this there -is nothing better than two hard glass beads. If one of these beads be -sunk into the top of the reel just mentioned, and the other fixed in -the bottom of another loose reel, the upper one will revolve freely on -the lower (Fig. 70). This loose reel will be the driving wheel of the -contrivance and will hold the power band from the wind wheel. Fixed to -this running wheel, and immediately above, will be another reel for the -actual merry-go-round. Into the sides of this uppermost reel bore four -holes, and insert the pointed ends of the four skewers, arranging them -so that all four are at right angles. The running will be facilitated if -another glass bead is sunk in the top of this reel. - -[Illustration: FIG. 70.] - -All that remains now to complete the roundabout is to fix four -figures--horses, boats, or similar--at one end of each skewer. These -figures can be drawn on cardboard and cut out; or they can be sawn from -fretwood. - - -Another interesting variation of this toy is the - -_Fairy Light Wheel._--For this, instead of fixing figures at the ends of -the skewers, obtain four egg shells, and suspend them by means of wires -from the ends of the arms (Fig. 71). Now if little night-lights or odd -ends of candle be placed in the egg shells and lighted, a very pretty -effect is obtained when the whole is made to revolve. - -[Illustration: FIG. 71.] - - -A toy which is always welcome to boys and girls is - -_A Pair of Scales._--Moreover this is a toy which can be made quite -accurately with the aid of a few quite ordinary materials. To a pair of -scales--or a balance, as it is sometimes called--there are generally -these parts: (1) a balancing arm, generally called the beam; (2) an -upright standard on which the beam is supported; (3) two scale pins, and -chains (or strings) to suspend them; (4) a base board to which the -upright standard is fixed. Fig. 72 shows the sort of thing we mean. - -[Illustration: FIG. 72.] - -Now of these things not one presents any real difficulty. For the base -board any piece of wood about a foot long, 5 in. wide, and 3/4 in. thick -will do quite well. For the upright standard you require a piece of wood -about 9 in. long and 1 in. square--one end of which must be fixed to the -base board. The method of doing this will depend very largely on your -degree of proficiency in the art of carpentry. If you know how to make a -mortise and tenon joint, that will be the most suitable. If you cannot -attain to that, then perhaps you can make a hole just as large as the -standard, and sink the standard in the base. If you are not at all an -expert, then you must just nail or screw your standard to the centre of -the base. - -Before you do this, however, there is something to be done to the other -end. You must cut a slot 1/2 in. wide and 1-1/2 in. deep (Fig. 73_a_); -then you must cut away small triangular pieces from the centres of the -tongues left (Fig. 73_b_); and finally you must nail to the sides of the -V so formed two little strips of tin (Fig. 73_c_). - -[Illustration: FIG. 73.] - -The next thing to be constructed is the "beam." For this you will need a -piece of fretwood (or other thin wood) about 9 or 10 in. long and about -1 in. wide. To support this on the metal V pieces you will need a thin -piece of steel--such as a piece of an old pocket-knife blade. This will -be driven through the centre of the beam, and will project equally on -either side (Fig. 74). Remember, it must fit tightly; so when you cut -the slot for it, do not make it too wide. - -[Illustration: FIG. 74.] - -For the scale pans two canister lids will do quite well. Bore three -holes in each of the rims--measuring off the distances with a compass, -so that the holes are equally far apart, and suspend the pans by means -of three strings passing into holes in the ends of the beam. If, when -you have completed the work, the beam does not hang perfectly -horizontal, then you must add weight or subtract weight from one side or -the other. You can do this by paring off tiny pieces from the end of the -beam, or you can stick on dabs of sealing wax till the correct balance -is obtained. - -If you cannot get any proper _weights_, then it is not a very difficult -matter to make some. To do this, all that you need is to get some -cardboard and a supply of sand, and to borrow a complete set of weights. -First of all make a number of little cardboard cubes, having sides -varying from 3/4 in. to 3 in. Draw each one out on cardboard (Fig. 75); -cut it out; and bind up with gummed tape--leaving one side ungummed. On -one pan of the balance put this thing, and on the other pan put a -proper weight (say 1/2 oz). Now pour in sand into the little cube until -it exactly balances the correct weight. When it does, wet the binding, -and stick down the remaining side. Finally print the correct weight on -one face of the cube. - -[Illustration: FIG. 75.] - -In similar fashion you can proceed to make all the different weights -that you are likely to require, from 1/2 oz. upwards. While not very -substantial, these little weights will last quite a long time, if they -are handled with care. - - -Engines of all sorts are always fascinating to boys and girls, and later -on we shall describe some excellent ones. At this point we wish to -describe what is possibly one of the simplest forms of engine known, and -certainly one of the earliest. It is the engine driven by a flanged -wheel, which itself is made to turn by the weight of something falling -on the flanges. The commonest form of this wheel is the water wheel, -where the weight of the water falling on the wheel causes the -revolution. - -As water is generally a "messy" thing to operate with, especially on -such a contrivance as this, we have substituted something else. - -For the working of very light toys, sand provides an alternative motive -power. If a flanged wheel be made after the fashion of a water wheel, -and a steady stream of sand allowed to descend on to the flanges, then -the wheel will rotate as long as the supply of sand lasts, and the power -may be transmitted by pulley wheels for the working of some simple -mechanism. - - -Fig. 76 shows - -_A Sand-power Engine._--The large driving wheel consists of two circles -of thick cardboard, each about 6 in. across, firmly glued together. -These two circles are bevelled, and fixed facing inwards, so that a -groove is left in which the power band can run. - -[Illustration: FIG. 76.] - -Through the centre of the driving wheel thus fashioned a piece of -dowelling or old lead pencil is fixed, projecting 1/4 in. on one side, -and about 1-1/2 in. on the other. Nails are driven in the two ends of -this axle, and the wheel is suspended between supports, glued and -screwed firmly to a base board. - -The flanged sand wheel is next constructed. For this, four oblong pieces -of cardboard, 1-1/4 in. wide and about 2 in. long, are cut out. A line -is scratched along each of these about 1/2 in. from the end, and the -cardboard bent so as to form a scoop to hold the sand for an instant. -These four flanges are then glued to the axle, and the side of the -driving wheel. If the sand wheel so made is not sufficiently firm, then -another small cardboard circle can be glued to the flanges, on the side -remote from the driving wheel: this will strengthen the wheel and in no -way interfere with the running. - -All that is necessary now is to erect some sort of sand supply: for this -a large canister will do. A tiny hole must be punched in the bottom of -the tin, and a revolving trap made with another piece of tin. This is -simple enough: all you need to do is cut a piece of tin about 3/4 in. -long and 1/2 in. wide, and punch a hole in one end. This pierced tin -should then be placed so that the unbroken end of the slip covers the -supply hole. A forked rivet should then be passed through the hole in -the slip and through the bottom of the canister and fixed in place (Fig. -77); the trap can then be made to revolve, and the sand supply started -or stopped at will. The canister should be placed above the wheel so -that a thin stream falls on the flanges and turns the wheel. - -[Illustration: FIG. 77.] - -If a string be now passed round the outside edge of the driving wheel, -the mechanism can be harnessed to any toy and the motive power supplied. -For instance, the contrivance can be erected on a flat hull similar to -that shown in Fig. 83, page 70; and the power band, passing through a -hole in the centre of the hull, can be connected with the propeller by -means of a rod (in place of the elastic). The resultant machine, though -not highly efficient, is yet quite attractive. - - -Another material from which some delightful toys can be contrived is -"tin," or, as it is more correctly called, "tinned iron." This is the -stuff cocoa tins and mustard tins and many other articles are made of. -Perhaps the simplest toy we can commence with is - -_A Rotating Snake._--For this secure a clean flat piece of thin tin--the -piece which the little patent cutter removes from the top of a round -cigarette tin will do admirably--and, using a soft lead pencil, draw on -it a spiral snake, such as is shown in Fig. 78. Now cut along the lines -with a stout pair of scissors, or else with a sharp-pointed knife. Pull -out the resultant spiral till it is stretched as in Fig. 79, and mount -it by means of the tail on an upright piece of pointed stout wire. The -serpent will rotate on this for a considerable time. - -[Illustration: FIG. 78.] - -[Illustration: FIG. 79.] - -If you are good at bent-wire work, you will be able to make a wire stand -by which to fix it on a lamp chimney or gas globe: it will then revolve -continuously, and with considerable speed. - - -_A Tin-can Steam Roller._--This is a nice piece of metal work, and, when -finished well, provides a proper little toy. To construct it you need -several tins--a round tin, such as a cocoa tin, about 2 in. across and 4 -in. long; an oblong tin, about 3-1/2 in. by 3 in. by 2 in., such as the -larger-sized mustard tins; a round cigarette tin, about 2-1/2 in. across -and 3-1/4 in. deep; two equal-sized tin lids from canisters, each about -4 in. across; and a cotton reel. These, the main items, when put -together, yield a model similar to that shown in Fig. 80. - -[Illustration: FIG. 80.] - -The fixing is quite a simple affair. With a pair of metal shears (or -strong scissors) you cut away a portion of the top of the cocoa tin, so -as to leave three tongues. Then on the side of the oblong mustard tin -you mark three lines to correspond with the three tongues, and cut them -through so as to form three slots into which the tongues may fit. Now, -if the tongues be bent outwards or inwards, then the two tins will hold -firmly together, and give the boiler and cab of the machine (Fig. 81). - -Before bending these, however, it is necessary to bore a hole in the -under side of the boiler for the fixing of the front roller. This is -attached to the boiler by means of a narrow strip of tin bent twice at -right angles, and kept in place by means of a forked brass rivet or a -strong brass paper fastener so that it will revolve freely. This narrow -strip of tin just fits over the cigarette tin--a piece of knitting -needle being used as axle, passing through holes bored in the centre of -the bottom and lid of the tin, and through the ends of the slip. - -For the larger rear wheels the lids of two canisters can be used, or, if -something is required giving a more definite impression of solidity, two -flat boot-polish tins can be substituted. Another piece of knitting -needle passes through the centre of these, and through holes in the -sides of the cab, and so acts as axle. This is kept in place by means of -dabs of sealing wax. - -For the stack you can use a long thin cotton reel, or, better still, you -can fix on another small tin by the method shown in Fig. 81. - -[Illustration: FIG. 81.] - -The turning of the front wheel can be regulated by means of two strings -passing from the two right-angle strips through a hole into the cab. If -you can fix the strings to a piece of wood as shown in Fig. 82, you will -be able to steer properly. A hole in the bottom of the cab, and a piece -of wood stretched tightly across the top, should enable you to set up -the steering apparatus. - -[Illustration: FIG. 82.] - - -_A Working Motor Boat._--To construct a motor boat that will travel a -considerable distance is not really a difficult matter. All that is -necessary is a piece of board for a hull, a wood or metal propeller, and -a yard or two of strong elastic: these, carefully adjusted, will do all -that is necessary. - -For the hull, a piece of 5/8 in. or 3/4 in. board, about 18 in. long -will do. This can be cut to the boat shape by means of a pocket knife or -a spokeshave, and finished off with glass-paper. It should be -sharp-pointed at the bows, about 3 in. to 4 in. at the centre, tapering -down to a width of 2 in. at the stern. In the centre of the hull nail a -block of wood, and to it glue two funnels (Fig. 83). For these, the odd -lengths cut off from bamboo curtain poles will do admirably; or, if -these be not obtainable, a couple of incandescent-mantle cases will -suffice. - -[Illustration: FIG. 83.] - -The adjustment of the motive power is the difficult task. First, you -will need to purchase a couple of yards of suitable elastic: this is -sold at most large toy shops, and costs usually a penny a yard. To fix -this into place beneath the hull you will need to construct two metal -supports. If you can get an old tin box made from metal sufficiently -stout, that will do; if not, then you had better buy a piece of sheet -brass, No. 20 gauge: 6 in. by 4 in. will be ample. Draw out these -supports as shown in Figs. 84 and 85, and bend them into shape as in -Figs. 86 and 87--one for the bow and one for the stern. Screw on the bow -one about 1-1/2 in. or 2 in. from the point, and the stern one in the -middle of the end. - -[Illustration: FIG. 84.] - -[Illustration: FIG. 85.] - -[Illustration: FIG. 86.] - -[Illustration: FIG. 87.] - -Now into the bow support fix a loop of stout wire to hold the rubber -strands, making it sufficiently large to rest against the sides and so -prevent turning. At the stern support adjust the propeller bearings. On -the care with which these are adjusted depends largely the success of -the model. Take a piece of wire (1/16-inch brass is best) and bend it as -in Fig. 88, introducing a hard smooth glass bead. This "bead" runs more -freely against the metal, and so facilitates the working. Now stretch -the elastic between the two loops, arranging it so that there are six or -eight strands. To work the model, turn the propeller round and round -till the strands of elastic are very tightly twisted, place on the -surface of the water, and then release the propeller. Fig. 83 shows the -completed model. - -[Illustration: FIG. 88.] - - -All boys love a toy that "goes"; and so a short account showing how to -make - -_A Steamboat_ that will actually travel on the water will be very -welcome. Our boat, which in reality is not a "steam" boat, inasmuch as -no steam is generated, is very simple in its construction and possesses -neither wheels nor pistons nor cranks, nor any of the things that one -associates with a steamer. - -The whole motive power is supplied by one or two candle ends, and a bent -piece of strong metal tubing. This last can scarcely be called either -"odds" or "ends"; and you will probably have to purchase it at a shop -selling model-engine fittings, but a few pence will cover the cost. You -must get an eight-inch piece of solid drawn copper or brass tubing, with -an inside diameter of 1/8 in. (_N.B._--Do not let the man sell you -soldered tubing, for it will certainly crack when you bend it.) - -The next operation is the most difficult: it is bending the tube to the -shape shown in Fig. 89. This must be done very gently, otherwise you -will crack or dent it. The loop shown should have a diameter of about -5/8 to 3/4 of an inch. - -[Illustration: FIG. 89.] - -The actual boat itself can be of any shape. If you happen to have an old -wooden hull suitable to the purpose, use that; if not, then a flat hull -similar to that described on page 70 will do quite well. Fix the bent -tubing at the stern of the boat, so that the two open ends project over -the edge and dip beneath the surface of the water (Fig. 90). Two pieces -of wire bent as in Fig. 90_a_ will hold the tubing in place. - -[Illustration: FIG. 90.] - -All that you need do now is place the candles under the loop of the tube -and heat it. (If you have a tiny spirit lamp, that will act more -effectively, of course.) The heat from the candles makes the air in the -tube very hot. This hot air is expelled from one arm of the tube; and a -current of water rushes up one arm of the tube and down the other with -considerable force. It is this current that causes the boat to move. - - -_Another Working Steamboat._--This time our boat will merit its -name--for we shall have a boiler, and generate a supply of steam. - -If you look at Fig. 91 you will get a good idea of the construction of -this model, and realise how simple it really is. The boiler is provided -by a medium-sized flat oblong tin, with the lid soldered down so that it -is steam tight. For the purpose of putting water into the boiler when -necessary, a hole is bored in the lid, and a cork fitted tightly. - -[Illustration: FIG. 91.] - -In one end of the boiler, and towards the top, you must make a pin hole. -When the water boils well, the steam is expelled through this tiny hole -with considerable force; and to this is due the motion of the craft. - -The remainder of the fitting up is soon done. A flat hull similar to -that described on page 70 is prepared, and four flat-headed nails driven -in, so that the four corners of the boiler can each stand on a nail -head. The rudder is cut from an old piece of tin, and pressed into a -knife-cut made in the centre of the stern of the hull. - -The boiler is placed into position with the steam hole facing the stern, -and lighted candle ends are then placed underneath the boiler--as many -as possible; for the more the candles the greater the heat, and -consequently the greater the force of steam. It will help matters along -considerably if the boiler is first of all filled with hot water, -instead of cold; but be careful not to scald yourself in doing this. - -When steam is up, the boat should travel along at quite a comfortable -pace. - - -Apart from the materials dealt with there are numerous little fragments. -A pane of glass is broken, for instance, and in most cases all the -pieces are thrown away. Now this is quite unnecessary, for from them can -be made some - -_Japanese Wind Bells._--Probably most boys and girls have heard or seen -the jolly little "wind bells" which the Japanese people make, and which -many English folk now hang in their houses. As they are made simply of -slips of glass and pieces of wool or string, there is not much -difficulty in their construction; and they are worth all the trouble you -take, for their merry little tinkle is a pleasing sound. - -The slips of glass--they are generally little rectangles, varying from 1 -in. to 2 in. in width, and 2 in. to 4 in. in length--are suspended so -that when a gentle breeze disturbs them the corners strike gently. To -secure a proper suspension, you can either take a board, 6 in. square, -and hang the strings from it, or you can make a conical wire frame, -about 6 in. across, and hang the pieces of wool (or string) from the two -rings (Fig. 92). The pieces of glass, which can be of any shape and -size, should be fixed by means of sealing wax. It is usual to give the -glass slips a few dabs of colour, so as to give a brighter effect at -night. If you can introduce one or two pieces of coloured glass, the -same effect will result. - -[Illustration: FIG. 92.] - - -Other _broken_ things, too, can be turned to account. - -One such toy, made up of things otherwise quite useless, is - -_A Musical Box._--This entertaining musical toy, capable of producing -the most beautiful sound effects, can quite easily be made with a few -broken wine glasses. So long as the bowl part of the glass is intact, it -does not matter to what extent the stem or foot part has been damaged, -provided there is enough of the stem remaining to insert in a wooden -block. - -The sound effects are produced by rubbing the ball of the finger gently -round the rim of the glass. For this the finger-tip must be absolutely -clean, particularly of any grease, and must be thoroughly wet. Probably -for the first time or two of rubbing nothing will occur. If that is so, -continue wetting the finger, and rub it on an india-rubber sponge or a -piece of soft india-rubber. You will know at once when the finger-tip is -in the right condition, for it will commence to "drag" on the rim. -Eventually a most beautiful pealing note will be emitted, which note -will alter slightly in tone if water be poured into the glass. - -If in this way you can secure eight glasses tuned exactly to an octave, -then you have the wherewithal to produce tunes. When you have obtained -the glasses, then it is quite easy to fit them into a box quite close -together, leaving just enough room for the fingers to move round. Blocks -of wood must be nailed to the bottom of the box, and holes bored in -these blocks just exactly large enough to admit the stem (see Fig. 93). - -[Illustration: FIG. 93.] - - -_A Fleet of Nutshell Boats_ floating on a bowl of water makes a very -pretty little picture--nor are these little crafts at all difficult to -make. For the hull a nice evenly-shaped walnut shell is required: this -should be cleaned out, trimmed with a sharp knife, and scrubbed with a -stiff brush. For the mast a match stick will suffice. To keep this in -position glue two match sticks right across the widest part of the -hull--one on each side of the mast--and then put a daub of glue at the -bottom of the hull and others where the cross-bars touch the mast. - -The sail consists merely of a piece of paper with two holes through -which the mast passes. A glance at Fig. 94 will reveal the method of -fitting up, and show what a trim little craft can result from such a -simple origin. - -[Illustration: FIG. 94.] - - -One other toy which has always been deservedly popular is - -_The Jumping Frog._--If you are skilful with your pocket knife you can -cut out a representation of the animal from a lump of wood, and paint it -to make it more realistic. If, however, you have not the requisite -skill, you can still construct the toy by using a walnut shell in place -of the carved model. In either case the actual mechanism for "jumping" -is the same. - -You want a good-sized shell, or rather half-shell, some very strong thin -twine, and a match. First you must bore two holes in the sides of the -shell, not too near the edge, then tie a loop of twine round the holes -and the edge (Fig. 95). Now if you put a piece of match stick between -the strings, and twist the string by turning the match round, you will -complete the jumping mechanism (Fig. 96). Keep your finger on the match -to prevent it flying back, and carefully turn the shell upside down on -the table, holding it all the time. Now if you press one finger on the -side of the shell so that it slips suddenly from under, then your frog -will perform an astounding leap in the air. But, in your eagerness to -get a big jump, do not twist the string too tightly, otherwise the holes -will break out. - -[Illustration: FIG. 95.] - -[Illustration: FIG. 96.] - -If, as mentioned above, you are skilful enough to cut out the frog, you -will need to hollow out the body so that there will be room for the -turning of the match. - -You can also do very much the same with a fowl's "wishbone" if you tie a -loop of string round the two prongs and use the match as shown above. - - -The shell of an ordinary hen's egg does not seem to give much scope for -construction. Yet much can be done with it. One of the best things you -can make is - -_An Egg-shell Yacht._--Next time mother is making cakes, or anything -which needs eggs, tell her you want the shell intact, and ask her to let -you blow out the contents. To do this, bore a small hole at each end, -and blow. Of course, if you have ever collected birds' eggs, and are an -adept at egg-blowing, you will only need one hole. - -Stop up the holes with sealing wax or plasticene. This complete shell is -to form the hull of the yacht; it will be necessary to add a keel, -mainmast, bowsprit, &c., to finish the craft. - -For the mainmast get a very thin piece of wood--a very thin piece of -bamboo or a piece of split cane will do--and pass it carefully through -two holes which have previously been bored in the opposite sides of the -shell. Let it project an inch or two below (Fig. 97_a_). Fix in position -by means of sealing wax. In similar fashion arrange a bowsprit. - -[Illustration: FIG. 97.] - -As the hull is very light, it will be necessary to have a good steadying -keel. A piece of sheet lead about 2 in. long and 1 in. wide will do -admirably. Secure it to the shell and the projecting piece of mainmast -by means of sealing wax (Fig. 97_b_). - -Now if this floats properly you can proceed with the rigging, which may -be as simple or as elaborate as you please. Fasten the spars to the -mainmast by means of very thin wire. (Sealing wax will do, but is not at -all reliable for this.) For the sails use tough tissue paper, gluing the -main and top sails in position, and fixing the jib and foresails by -means of threads. - -The addition of a cardboard rudder--fixed by wax--will complete a trim -little craft which will sail in approved regatta fashion, if it has been -properly adjusted (Fig. 98). - -[Illustration: FIG. 98.] - - -Nor must broken egg shells be despised. These can be decorated with -paints, and some very amusing little articles provided. Legs and arms -can be added, fixed into place with dabs of sealing wax; clothes can be -devised; and grotesque little toys improvised--toys suitable for the -decoration of the Christmas tree or sale at bazaars, &c. - - -Quite a number of amusing little toys can be made from those cylindrical -cardboard cases in which incandescent mantles are usually sold. For the -most part the only things needed for the construction are a sharp knife -(one with a very thin blade preferred), a tube of glue, one or two odd -pieces of cardboard, and some paints. - - -_A Money Box_, for instance, is always useful, and, by the aid of the -paint box, can be made very attractive. - -Take off the two end covers, and glue one end of the case to a circle of -thick cardboard, about 1/4 in. larger in radius than the case. Now for -the other end construct a conical top. To do this, draw out a circle -with a radius of about 1-1/4 in. and cut out a sector (see Fig. 9, p. -8). The two ends can then be brought together and fixed with a piece of -glued tape, and the whole thing can be glued to the other end of the -case. - -Before this is done, however, the money slot should be cut in the side. -Much can be done to make the article attractive by a judicious use of -the paints. The money slot, for instance, can be regarded as the mouth, -and a grotesque face drawn round it. - -If you care to cover the conical top with felt or flannel, you can make -the model very funny indeed. In the spring you can damp the felt or -flannel, and spread on grass seeds: these will grow and give your -grotesque figure a fine crop of bright green hair (Fig. 99). Of course, -if you are going to damp the upper parts of the model, you must obtain -and use some sort of waterproof glue. - -[Illustration: FIG. 99.] - - -_A Pin-hole Camera_ is another extremely simple yet extraordinarily -interesting contrivance (Fig. 100). - -[Illustration: FIG. 100.] - -For this you require two mantle cases, one just large enough to slide -easily into the other. Take the smaller one, and cover one end with -tissue paper. This must be done neatly and strongly, otherwise, as the -case slides up and down in the outer one, the tissue will tear. You -should draw out on the tissue a circle just as large as the end of the -case, and then all round, draw and cut little pointed tags to lap over -the edges and stick down (Fig. 101). - -[Illustration: FIG. 101.] - -One end of the outer case should be covered with thick brown paper in -just the same way, and a tiny pin hole pricked exactly in the centre of -the brown-paper end. - -Now if a lighted candle be placed near to the pin hole, and if the inner -case be moved to and fro till the right spot is found, an exact picture -of the candle flame will be seen on the tissue paper. - - -_A Doll's Easy Chair._--Apart from accurate and careful cutting there is -not very much difficulty in this. Take a mantle case and remove the -covers. Now draw a line from end to end and use this as a base line, -measuring the distances to right and left to the different points: this -will ensure accuracy. Fig. 102 shows one design suitable for the -purpose; but you will possibly like to make up your own. The fitting of -the seat is done as follows: On a piece of cardboard mark out a circle -having the same radius as the case, and another circle with a radius 1/8 -in. larger. Cut this out as shown in Fig. 103. Now cut a slot a little -more than half-way across the case from the front, at a level suitable -for the seat, and into this slide the seat. If the slot has not been cut -far enough across, go on cutting till the seat fits correctly in the -case. Then glue it in position. - -[Illustration: FIG. 102.] - -[Illustration: FIG. 103.] - -All that is now required is a coat of paint, and any ornamentation you -may care to add. - - -In conclusion we would point out once more what we stated at the -beginning--namely, that the examples given are intended merely to -suggest ways and means of making countless other articles. - - - Printed by The Edinburgh Art Printing Co. Ltd. - Edinburgh - - - - - * * * * * * - - - - -Transcriber's note: - -Illustrations have been moved to logical locations between -paragraphs. - -The following suspected error was changed in the text: on page -69, changed "somethng" to "something" - - - -***END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK TOY-MAKING AT HOME*** - - -******* This file should be named 42278.txt or 42278.zip ******* - - -This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: -http://www.gutenberg.org/dirs/4/2/2/7/42278 - - - -Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions -will be renamed. - -Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no -one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation -(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without -permission and without paying copyright royalties. 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