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diff --git a/42112-8.txt b/42112-8.txt deleted file mode 100644 index 062dfdd..0000000 --- a/42112-8.txt +++ /dev/null @@ -1,13521 +0,0 @@ -Project Gutenberg's The Yellowstone National Park, by Hiram Martin Chittenden - -This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with -almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or -re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included -with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org - - -Title: The Yellowstone National Park - Historical and Descriptive - -Author: Hiram Martin Chittenden - -Release Date: February 17, 2013 [EBook #42112] - -Language: English - -Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1 - -*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK *** - - - - -Produced by Greg Bergquist, Tom Cosmas and the Online -Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This -file was produced from images generously made available -by The Internet Archive/American Libraries.) - - - - - - - -Transcriber's Notes - - Text emphasis is denoted as _Text_ for italic and =Text= for bold. - Whole and fractional parts are shown as 4-2/3. - - - * * * * * - - - - -[Illustration: Grand Falls of the Yellowstone and Old Faithful -Geyser.] - - THE - Yellowstone National Park - HISTORICAL AND DESCRIPTIVE - - Illustrated with Maps, Views and Portraits - - - BY - - - Hiram Martin Chittenden - Captain, Corps of Engineers, United States Army - - - [Illustration] - - - CINCINNATI - THE ROBERT CLARKE COMPANY - 1895 - - - - - Copyright, 1895, - - By Hiram Martin Chittenden. - - Dedication. - - TO THE MEMORIES OF - - John Colter - - AND - - James Bridger, - - PIONEERS IN THE WONDERLAND - OF THE - Upper Yellowstone. - - - - -PREFACE. - - -Twenty-five years ago, this date, a company of gentlemen were encamped -at the Forks of the Madison River in what is now the Yellowstone -National Park. They had just finished the first complete tour of -exploration ever made of that region. Fully realizing the importance -of all they had seen, they asked what ought to be done to preserve so -unique an assemblage of wonders to the uses for which Nature had -evidently designed them. It required no argument to show that -government protection alone was equal to the task, and it was agreed -that a movement to secure such protection should be inaugurated at -once. So rapidly did events develop along the line of this idea, that -within the next eighteen months the "Act of Dedication" had become a -law, and the Yellowstone National Park took its place in our country's -history. - -The wide-spread interest which the discovery of this region created -among civilized peoples has in no degree diminished with the lapse of -time. In this country particularly the Park to-day stands on a firmer -basis than ever before. The events of the past two years, in matters -of legislation and administration, have increased many fold the -assurances of its continued preservation, and have shown that even the -petty local hostility, which has now and then menaced its existence, -is yielding to a wiser spirit of patriotism. - -The time therefore seems opportune, in passing so important an epoch -in the history of the Park, and while many of the actors in its -earlier scenes are still among us, to collect the essential facts, -historical and descriptive, relating to this region, and to place them -in form for permanent preservation. The present literature of the -Park, although broad in scope and exhaustive in detail, is -unfortunately widely scattered, somewhat difficult of access, and in -matters of early history, notably deficient. To supply a work which -shall form a complete and connected treatment of the subject, is the -purpose of the present volume. - -It deals first and principally with the history of the Upper -Yellowstone from the days of Lewis and Clark to the present time. The -main text is supplemented by a considerable amount of appendical -matter, the most important features of which are a complete list of -the geographical names of the Park, with their origin and -signification; a few biographical sketches of the early explorers; and -a bibliography of the literature pertaining to this region. - -The descriptive portion of the work contains a succinct, though -comprehensive, treatment of the various scientific and popular -features of the Park. While it is sufficient for all the requirements -of ordinary information, it purposely refrains from a minute -discussion of those details which have been, or are now being, -exhaustively treated by the scientific departments of the government. - -In describing a region whose fame rests upon its natural wonders, the -assistance of the illustrative art has naturally been resorted to. The -various accompanying maps have all been prepared especially for this -work and are intended to set forth not only present geography but -historical features as well. The folded map embodies every thing to -date from the latest geographical surveys. It will bear careful study, -and this has been greatly simplified by a system of marginal -references to be used with the list of names in Appendix A. - -The illustrations cover every variety of subject in the Park and -represent the best results of photographic work in that region. They -are mostly from the studio of Mr. F. J. Haynes, of St. Paul, the -well-known Park photographer, who has done so much by his art to -disseminate a knowledge of the wonders of the Yellowstone. A -considerable number are from views taken during the Hayden surveys by -Mr. William H. Jackson, now of Denver, Colorado. A few excellent -subjects are from the amateur work of Captain C. M. Gandy, Assistant -Surgeon, U. S. A., who was stationed for some years on duty in the -Park. The portraits are restricted to the few early explorers who -visited the Upper Yellowstone prior to the creation of the Park. - -To any one who is familiar with the recent history of the Park, a work -like the present would seem incomplete without some reference to those -influences which endanger its future existence. A brief discussion of -this subject is accordingly presented, which, without considering -particular schemes, exposes the dangerous tendencies underlying them -all. - -In the course of a somewhat extended correspondence connected with the -preparation of this work, the author has become indebted for much -information that could not be found in the existing literature of the -Park. He desires in this place to return his sincere acknowledgments -to all who have assisted him, and to refer in a special manner. - -To the Hon. N. P. Langford, of St. Paul, whose long acquaintance with -the Upper Yellowstone country has made him an authority upon its -history. - -To Dr. Elliott Coues, of Washington, D. C., who has contributed, -besides much general assistance, the essential facts relating to the -name "Yellowstone." - -To Captain George S. Anderson, 6th U. S. Cavalry, Superintendent of -the Park, for the use of his extensive collection of Park literature. - -To Prof. Arnold Hague, and others, of the U. S. Geological Survey, for -many important favors. - -To Prof. J. D. Butler, of Madison, Wis., for biographical data -relating to James Bridger. - -To Dr. R. Ellsworth Call, of Cincinnati, Ohio, for valuable assistance -pertaining to the entire work. - -To the Hon. D. M. Browning, Commissioner of Indian Affairs, for -important data relating to the Indian tribes in the vicinity of the -Yellowstone Park. - -To the officers of the War and Interior Departments, the U. S. Fish -Commission, the U. S. Bureau of Ethnology, and of the U. S. Coast and -Geodetic Survey, for public documents and other information of great -value. - -To R. T. Durrett, LL.D., of Louisville, Ky.; Mr. J. G. Morrison, of -the Library of Congress, Washington, D. C.; Mr. J. D. Losecamp, of -Billings, Mont.; Mr. George Bird Grinnell, of _Forest and Stream_, New -York City; Major James F. Gregory, Corps of Engineers, U. S. A.; -Lieutenant Wm. H. Bean, Second Cavalry, U. S. A.; Hon. David E. -Folsom, White Sulphur Springs, Mont.; Washington Mathews, Major and -Surgeon, U. S. A.; Dr. A. C. Peale, of Philadelphia, Pa.; William -Hallett Phillips, of Washington, D. C.; Dr. Lyman B. Sperry, of -Bellevue, O.; Mrs. Matilda Cope Stevenson, of Washington, D. C.; Mrs. -Sirena J. Washburn, of Greencastle, Ind.; Miss Isabel Jelke, of -Cincinnati, O.; Mr. O. B. Wheeler, of St. Louis, Mo.; Mr. O. D. -Wheeler, of St. Paul, Minn.; Mr. J. H. Baronett, of Livingston, Mont.; -Mr. W. T. Hamilton, of Columbus, Mont.; Mr. Richard Leigh, of Wilford, -Idaho; Mr. Edwin L. Berthoud, of Golden, Colo.; and Miss Laura S. -Brown, of Columbus, O. H. M. C. - -Columbus, Ohio, _September 19, 1895_. - - - - -CONTENTS. - - - PART I.--HISTORICAL. - - Chapter I.--"Yellowstone" 1 - - Chapter II.--Indian Occupancy of the Upper Yellowstone 8 - - Chapter III.--John Colter 20 - - Chapter IV.--The Trader and Trapper 32 - - Chapter V.--Early knowledge of the Yellowstone 40 - - Chapter VI.--James Bridger 51 - - Chapter VII.--Raynolds Expedition 58 - - Chapter VIII.--Gold in Montana 65 - - Chapter IX.--Discovery 72 - - Chapter X.--The National Park Idea--Its Origin and Realization 87 - - Chapter XI.--Why So Long Unknown 98 - - Chapter XII.--Later Explorations 103 - - Chapter XIII.--An Indian Campaign through the National - Park 111 - - Chapter XIV.--Administrative History of the Park 127 - - Chapter XV.--The National Park Protective Act 142 - - - PART II.--DESCRIPTIVE. - - Chapter I.--Boundaries and Topography 148 - - Chapter II.--Geology of the Park 156 - - Chapter III.--Geysers 162 - - Chapter IV.--Hot Springs 172 - - Chapter V.--Fossil Forests of the Yellowstone 175 - - Chapter VI.--Fauna of the Yellowstone 181 - - Chapter VII.--Flora of the Yellowstone 187 - - Chapter VIII.--The Park as a Health Resort 193 - - Chapter IX.--The Park in Winter 198 - - Chapter X.--Roads, Hotels, and Transportation 201 - - Chapter XI.--Administration of the Park 206 - - Chapter XII.--A Tour of the Park--Preliminary 209 - - Chapter XIII.--A Tour of the Park--North Boundary to - Mammoth Hot Springs 211 - - Chapter XIV.--A Tour of the Park--Mammoth Hot Springs - to Norris Geyser Basin 217 - - Chapter XV.--A Tour of the Park--Norris Geyser Basin to - Lower Geyser Basin 221 - - Chapter XVI.--A Tour of the Park--Lower Geyser Basin - to Upper Geyser Basin 228 - - Chapter XVII.--A Tour of the Park--Upper Geyser Basin - to Yellowstone Lake 237 - - Chapter XVIII.--A Tour of the Park--Yellowstone Lake to - the Grand Cañon of the Yellowstone 248 - - Chapter XIX.--A Tour of the Park--Grand Cañon of the - Yellowstone to Junction Valley 260 - - - PART III.--THE FUTURE. - - Chapter I.--Hostility to the Park 267 - - Chapter II.--Railroad Encroachment and Change of Boundary 270 - - Chapter III.--Conclusion 281 - - -APPENDIX A. - - Geographical Names in the Yellowstone National Park 285 - - I.--Introductory 285 - - II.--Mountain Peaks 289 - - III.--Streams 313 - - IV.--Water-falls 324 - - V.--Lakes 327 - - VI.--Miscellaneous Features 338 - - VII.--Geysers 342 - - -APPENDIX B. - - Legislation and Regulations now in Force affecting the - Yellowstone National Park 345 - - -APPENDIX C. - - Appropriations on Account of the Yellowstone National - Park 357 - - -APPENDIX D. - - List of Superintendents of the Yellowstone National - Park 359 - - -APPENDIX E. - - Bibliography of the Yellowstone National Park 361 - - - - -The Yellowstone National Park. - - - - -PART I.--Historical. - -CHAPTER I. - -"YELLOWSTONE." - - -Lewis and Clark passed the first winter of their famous -trans-continental expedition among the Mandan Indians, on the Missouri -River, sixty-six miles above the present capital of North Dakota. When -about to resume their journey in the spring of 1805, they sent back to -President Jefferson a report of progress and a map of the western -country based upon information derived from the Indians. In this -report and upon this map appear for the first time, in any official -document, the words "Yellow Stone" as the name of the principal -tributary of the Missouri. - -It seems, however, that Lewis and Clark were not the first actually to -use the name. David Thompson, the celebrated explorer and geographer, -prominently identified with the British fur trade in the North-west, -was among the Mandan Indians on the Missouri River from December 29, -1797, to January 10, 1798. While there he secured data, mostly from -the natives, from which he estimated the latitude and longitude of -the source of the Yellowstone River. In his original manuscript -journal and field note-books, containing the record of his -determinations, the words "Yellow Stone" appear precisely as used by -Lewis and Clark in 1805. This is, perhaps, the first use of the name -in its Anglicised form, and it is certainly the first attempt to -determine accurately the geographical location of the source of the -stream.[A] - -[A] Thompson's estimate: - -Latitude, 43° 39' 45" north. Longitude, 109° 43' 17" west. - -Yount Peak, source of the Yellowstone (Hayden): - -Latitude, 43° 57' north. Longitude, 109° 52' west. - -Thompson's error: - -In latitude, 17' 15". In longitude, 8' 43", or about 21 miles. - - -Neither Thompson nor Lewis and Clark were originators of the name. -They gave us only the English translation of a name already long in -use. "This river," say Lewis and Clark, in their journal for the day -of their arrival at the mouth of the now noted stream, "had been known -to the French as the _Roche Jaune_, or, as we have called it, the -Yellow Stone." The French name was, in fact, already firmly -established among the traders and trappers of the North-west Fur -Company, when Lewis and Clark met them among the Mandans. Even by the -members of the expedition it seems to have been more generally used -than the new English form; and the spellings, "Rejone," "Rejhone," -"Rochejone," "Rochejohn," and "Rochejhone," are among their various -attempts to render orthographically the French pronunciation. - -Probably the name would have been adopted unchanged, as so many other -French names in our geography have been, except for the recent cession -of Louisiana to the United States. The policy which led the government -promptly to explore, and take formal possession of, its extensive -acquisition, led it also, as part of the process of rapid -Americanization, to give English names to all of the more prominent -geographical features. In the case of the name here under -consideration, this was no easy matter. The French form had already -obtained wide currency, and it was reluctantly set aside for its less -familiar translation. As late as 1817, it still appeared in newly -English-printed books,[B] while among the traders and trappers of the -mountains, it survived to a much later period. - -[B] Bradbury's "Travels in the Interior of America." See Appendix E. - -By whom the name _Roche Jaune_, or its equivalent form _Pierre Jaune_, -was first used, it would be extremely interesting to know; but it is -impossible to determine at this late day. Like their successor, -"Yellow Stone," these names were not originals, but only translations. -The Indian tribes along the Yellowstone and upper Missouri rivers had -names for the tributary stream signifying "yellow rock,"[C] and the -French had doubtless adopted them long before any of their number saw -the stream itself. - -[C] The name "Elk River" was also used among the Crow Indians. - -The first explorations of the country comprised within the present -limits of the State of Montana are matters of great historic -uncertainty. By one account it appears that, between the years 1738 -and 1753, Pierre Gaultier de Varennes, the Sieur de la Verendrye, and -his sons, particularly the Chevalier de la Verendrye, conducted -parties of explorers westward, from Lake Superior to the Assinnaboine -River, thence south to the Mandan country, and thence to the very -sources of the Missouri. Even the date, January 12, 1743, is given for -their first ascent of the Rocky Mountains. But such is the dearth of -satisfactory evidence relating to these explorations, that positive -inferences concerning them are impossible. The most that can be said -is, that if De la Verendrye visited these regions, as is generally -believed, to him doubtless belongs the honor of having adopted from -original sources the name of the Yellowstone River. - -The goal of De la Verendrye's explorations was the Pacific Ocean; but -the French and Indian war which robbed France of her dominion in -America, prevented his ever reaching it. Following him, at the -distance of nearly half a century, came the traders and trappers of -the North-west Fur Company. As already noted, they were among the -Mandans as early as 1797, and the name _Roche Jaune_ was in common use -among them in 1804. They appear to have been wholly ignorant of the -work of De la Verendrye, and it is quite certain that, prior to 1805, -none of them had reached the Yellowstone River. Lewis and Clark -particularly record the fact, while yet some distance below the -junction of this river with the Missouri, that they had already passed -the utmost limit of previous adventure by white men. Whatever, -therefore, was at this time known of the Yellowstone could have come -to these traders only from Indian sources.[D] - -[D] An interesting reference to the name "Yellowstone," in an entirely -different quarter, occurs on Pike's map of the "Internal Provinces of -Spain," published in 1810. It is a corrupt Spanish translation in the -form of "_Rio de Piedro Amaretto del Missouri_," (intended of course -to be _Rio de la Piedra Amarilla del Missouri_) river of the Yellow -Stone of the Missouri. No clue has been discovered of the source from -which Pike received this name; but the fact of its existence need -occasion no surprise. The Spanish had long traded as far north as the -Shoshone country, and had mingled with the French traders along the -lower Missouri. Lewis and Clark found articles of their manufacture -among the Shoshones in 1805. There is also limited evidence of early -intercourse between them and the Crow nation. That the name of so -important a stream as the Yellowstone should have become known to -these traders is therefore not at all remarkable. There is, however, -no reason to suppose that the Spanish translation antedates the -French. It certainly plays no part in the descent of the name from the -original to the English form, and it is of interest in this connection -mainly as showing that, even at this early day, the name had found its -way to the provinces of the south. - -We thus find that the name, which has now become so celebrated, -descends to us, through two translations, from those native races -whose immemorial dwelling-place had been along the stream which it -describes. What it was that led them to use the name is easily -discoverable. The Yellowstone River is pre-eminently a river with -banks of yellow rock. Along its lower course "the flood plain is -bordered by high bluffs of yellow sandstone." Near the mouth of the -Bighorn River stands the noted landmark, Pompey's Pillar, "a high -isolated rock" of the same material. Still further up, beyond the -mouth of Clark's fork, is an extensive ridge of yellow rock, the -"sheer, vertical sides" of which, according to one writer, "gleam in -the sunlight like massive gold." All along the lower river, in fact, -from its mouth to the Great Bend at Livingston, this characteristic -is more or less strikingly present. - -Whether it forms a sufficiently prominent feature of the landscape to -justify christening the river from it, may appear to be open to doubt. -At any rate the various descriptions of this valley by early explorers -rarely refer to the same locality as being conspicuous from the -presence of yellow rock. Some mention it in one place, some in -another. Nowhere does it seem to have been so striking as to attract -the attention of all observers. For this reason we shall go further in -search of the true origin of the name, to a locality about which there -can be no doubt, no difference of opinion. - -Seventy-five miles below the ultimate source of the river lies the -Grand Cañon of the Yellowstone, distinguished among the notable cañons -of the globe by the marvelous coloring of its walls. Conspicuous among -its innumerable tints is yellow. Every shade, from the brilliant -plumage of the yellow bird to the rich saffron of the orange, greets -the eye in bewildering profusion. There is indeed other color, -unparalleled in variety and abundance, but the ever-present background -of all is the beautiful fifth color of the spectrum. - -So prominent is this feature that it never fails to attract attention, -and all descriptions of the Cañon abound in references to it. -Lieutenant Doane (1870) notes the "brilliant yellow color" of the -rocks. Captain Barlow and Doctor Hayden (1871) refer, in almost the -same words, to the "yellow, nearly vertical walls." Raymond (1871) -speaks of the "bright yellow of the sulphury clay." Captain Jones -(1873) says that "about and in the Grand Cañon the rocks are nearly -all tinged a brilliant yellow." These early impressions might be -repeated from the writings of every subsequent visitor who has -described the scenery of the Yellowstone. - -That a characteristic which so deeply moves the modern beholder should -have made a profound impression on the mind of the Indian, need hardly -be premised. This region was by no means unknown to him; and from the -remote, although uncertain, period of his first acquaintance with it, -the name of the river has undoubtedly descended. - -Going back, then, to this obscure fountain-head, the original -designation is found to have been - - _Mi tsi a-da-zi_,[E] Rock Yellow River. - -And this, in the French tongue, became - - _Roche Jaune_ and _Pierre Jaune_; - -and in English, - - _Yellow Rock_ and _Yellow Stone_. - -Established usage now writes it - - _Yellowstone_. - -[E] Minnetaree, one of the Siouan family of languages. - - - - -CHAPTER II. - -INDIAN OCCUPANCY OF THE UPPER YELLOWSTONE. - - -It is a singular fact in the history of the Yellowstone National Park -that no knowledge of that country seems to have been derived from the -Indians. The explanation ordinarily advanced is that the Indians had a -superstitious fear of the geyser regions and always avoided them. How -far this theory is supported by the results of modern research is an -interesting inquiry. - -Three great families of Indians, the Siouan, the Algonquian, and the -Shoshonean, originally occupied the country around the sources of the -Yellowstone. Of these three families the following tribes are alone of -interest in this connection: The Crows (_Absaroka_) of the Siouan -family; the Blackfeet (_Siksika_) of the Algonquian family; and the -Bannocks (_Panai'hti_), the Eastern Shoshones, and the Sheepeaters -(_Tukuarika_) of the Shoshonean family. - -The home of the Crows was in the Valley of the Yellowstone below the -mountains where they have dwelt since the white man's earliest -knowledge of them. Their territory extended to the mountains which -bound the Yellowstone Park on the north and east; but they never -occupied or claimed any of the country beyond. Their well-known tribal -characteristics were an insatiable love of horse-stealing and a -wandering and predatory habit which caused them to roam over all the -West from the Black Hills to the Bitter Root Mountains and from the -British Possessions to the Spanish Provinces. They were generally, -although by no means always, friendly to the whites, but enemies of -the neighboring Blackfeet and Shoshones. Physically, they were a -stalwart, handsome race, fine horsemen and daring hunters. They were -every-where encountered by the trapper and prospector who generally -feared them more on account of their thievish habits than for reasons -of personal safety. - -The Blackfeet dwelt in the country drained by the headwaters of the -Missouri. Their territory was roughly defined by the Crow territory on -the east and the Rocky Mountains on the west. Its southern limit was -the range of mountains along the present north-west border of the -Park and it extended thence to the British line. The distinguishing -historic trait of these Indians was their settled hostility to their -neighbors whether white or Indian. They were a tribe of perpetual -fighters, justly characterized as the Ishmaelites of their race. From -the day in 1806, when Captain Lewis slew one of their number, down to -their final subjection by the advancing power of the whites, they -never buried the hatchet. They were the terror of the trapper and -miner, and hundreds of the pioneers perished at their hands. Like the -Crows they were a well-developed race, good horsemen and great rovers, -but, in fight, given to subterfuge and stratagem rather than to open -boldness of action. - -In marked contrast with these warlike and wandering tribes were those -of the great Shoshonean family who occupied the country around the -southern, eastern, and western borders of the Park, including also -that of the Park itself. The Shoshones as a family were an inferior -race. They seem to have been the victims of some great misfortune -which had driven them to precarious methods of subsistence and had -made them the prey of their powerful and merciless neighbors. The -names "Fish-eaters," "Root-diggers," and other opprobrious epithets, -indicate the contempt in which they were commonly held. For the most -part they had no horses, and obtained a livelihood only by the most -abject means. Some of the tribes, however, rose above this degraded -condition, owned horses, hunted buffalo, and met their enemies in open -conflict. Such were the Bannocks and the Eastern Shoshones--tribes -closely connected with the history of the Park, one occupying the -country to the south-west near the Teton Mountains, and the other that -to the south-east in the valley of Wind River. The Shoshones were -generally friendly to the whites, and for this reason they figure less -prominently in the books of early adventure than do the Crows and -Blackfeet whose acts of "sanguinary violence" were a staple article -for the Indian romancer. - -It was an humble branch of the Shoshonean family which alone is known -to have permanently occupied what is now the Yellowstone Park. They -were called _Tukuarika_, or, more commonly, Sheepeaters. They were -found in the Park country at the time of its discovery and had -doubtless long been there. These hermits of the mountains, whom the -French trappers called "_les dignes de pitié_," have engaged the -sympathy or contempt of explorers since our earliest knowledge of -them. Utterly unfit for warlike contention, they seem to have sought -immunity from their dangerous neighbors by dwelling among the -inaccessible fastnesses of the mountains. They were destitute of even -savage comforts. Their food, as their name indicates, was principally -the flesh of the mountain sheep. Their clothing was composed of skins. -They had no horses and were armed only with bows and arrows. They -captured game by driving it into brush inclosures. Their rigorous -existence left its mark on their physical nature. They were feeble in -mind, diminutive in stature, and are always described as a "timid, -harmless race." They may have been longer resident in this region than -is commonly supposed, for there was a tradition among them, apparently -connected with some remote period of geological disturbance, that most -of their race were once destroyed by a terrible convulsion of -nature. - -[Illustration: HISTORICAL CHART OF THE YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK - -_Opp. page 11._] - -Such were the Indian tribes who formerly dwelt within or near the -country now embraced in the Yellowstone National Park. That the -Sheepeaters actually occupied this country, and that wandering bands -from other tribes occasionally visited it, there is abundant and -conclusive proof. Indian trails,[F] though generally indistinct, were -every-where found by the early explorers, mostly on lines since -occupied by the tourist routes. One of these followed the Yellowstone -Valley entirely across the Park from north to south. It divided at -Yellowstone Lake, the principal branch following the east shore, -crossing Two-Ocean-Pass, and intersecting a great trail which -connected the Snake and Wind River Valleys. The other branch passed -along the west shore of the lake and over the divide to the valleys of -Snake River and Jackson Lake. This trail was intersected by an -important one in the vicinity of Conant Creek leading from the Upper -Snake Valley to that of Henry Fork. Other intersecting trails -connected the Yellowstone River trail with the Madison and Firehole -Basins on the west and with the Bighorn Valley on the east. - -[F] See historical chart, opposite. - -The most important Indian trail in the Park, however, was that known -as the Great Bannock Trail. It extended from Henry Lake across the -Gallatin Range to Mammoth Hot Springs, where it was joined by another -coming up the valley of the Gardiner. Thence it led across the -Black-tail Deer plateau to the ford above Tower Falls; and thence up -the Lamar Valley, forking at Soda Butte, and reaching the Bighorn -Valley by way of Clark's Fork and the Stinkingwater River. This -trail was certainly a very ancient and much-traveled one. It had -become a deep furrow in the grassy slopes, and it is still distinctly -visible in places, though unused for a quarter of a century. - -Additional evidence in the same direction may be seen in the -wide-spread distribution of implements peculiar to Indian use. Arrows -and spear heads have been found in considerable numbers. Obsidian -Cliff was an important quarry, and the open country near the outlet of -Yellowstone Lake a favorite camping-ground. Certain implements, such -as pipes, hammers, and stone vessels, indicating the former presence -of a more civilized people, have been found to a limited extent; and -some explorers have thought that a symmetrical mound in the valley of -the Snake River, below the mouth of Hart River, is of artificial -origin. Reference will later be made to the discovery of a rude -granite structure near the top of the Grand Teton, which is -unquestionably of very ancient date. - -Dr. A. C. Peale, prominently connected with the early geological -explorations of this region, states that the Rustic Geyser in the Hart -Lake Geyser Basin is "bordered by logs which are coated with a -crystalline, semi-translucent deposit of geyserite. These logs were -evidently placed around the geyser by either Indians or white men a -number of years ago, as the coating is thick and the logs firmly -attached to the surrounding deposit."[G] - -[G] Page 298, Twelfth Annual Report of Dr. Hayden. See Appendix E. It -is more than probable that this was the work of trappers. - -More recent and perishable proofs of the presence of Indians in the -Park were found by the early explorers in the rude wick-e-ups, brush -inclosures, and similar contrivances of the lonely Sheepeaters; and it -is not improbable that many of the arrow and spear heads were the work -of these Indians. - -The real question of doubt in regard to Indian occupancy of, or visits -to, the Park, is therefore not one of fact, but of degree. The -Sheepeaters certainly dwelt there; but as to other tribes, their -acquaintance with it seems to have been very limited. No word of -information about the geyser regions ever fell from their lips, except -that the surrounding country was known to them as the Burning -Mountains. With one or two exceptions, the old trails were very -indistinct, requiring an experienced eye to distinguish them from game -trails. Their undeveloped condition indicated infrequent use. Old -trappers who have known this region for fifty years say that the -great majority of Indians never saw it. Able Indian guides in the -surrounding country became lost when they entered the Park, and the -Nez Percés were forced to impress a white man as guide when they -crossed the Park in 1877. - -An unknown writer, to whom extended reference will be made in a later -chapter, visited the Upper Geyser Basin in 1832, accompanied by two -Pend d'Oreilles Indians. Neither of these Indians had ever seen or -apparently heard of the geysers, and "were quite appalled" at the -sight of them, believing them to be "supernatural" and the "production -of the Evil Spirit." - -Lieutenant Doane, who commanded the military escort to the Yellowstone -Expedition of 1870, says in his report:[H] - -"Appearances indicated that the basin [of the Yellowstone Lake] had -been almost entirely abandoned by the sons of the forest. A few lodges -of Sheepeaters, a branch remnant of the Snake tribe, wretched beasts -who run from the sight of a white man, or from any other tribe of -Indians, are said to inhabit the fastnesses of the mountains around -the lakes, poorly armed and dismounted, obtaining a precarious -subsistence, and in a defenseless condition. We saw, however, no -recent traces of them. The larger tribes never enter the basin, -restrained by superstitious ideas in connection with the thermal -springs." - -[H] Page 26, "Yellowstone Expedition of 1870." See Appendix E. - -In 1880, Col. P. W. Norris, Second Superintendent of the Park, had a -long interview on the shore of the Yellowstone Lake with We-Saw, "an -old but remarkably intelligent Indian" of the Shoshone tribe, who was -then acting as guide to an exploring party under Governor Hoyt, of -Wyoming, and who had previously passed through the Park with the -expedition of 1873 under Captain W. A. Jones, U. S. A. He had also -been in the Park region on former occasions. Colonel Norris records -the following facts from this Indian's conversation:[I] - -"We-Saw states that he had neither knowledge nor tradition of any -permanent occupants of the Park save the timid Sheepeaters.... He said -that his people (Shoshones) the Bannocks and the Crows, occasionally -visited the Yellowstone Lake and River portions of the Park, but very -seldom the geyser regions, which he declared were '_heap, heap, bad_,' -and never wintered there, as white men sometimes did with horses." - -[I] Page 38, Annual Report of Superintendent of the Park for 1881. - -It seems that even the resident Sheepeaters knew little of the geyser -basins. General Sheridan, who entered the Park from the south in 1882, -makes this record in his report of the expedition:[J] - -"We had with us five Sheep Eating Indians as guides, and, strange to -say, although these Indians had lived for years and years about Mounts -Sheridan and Hancock, and the high mountains south-east of the -Yellowstone Lake, they knew nothing about the Firehole Geyser Basin, -and they exhibited more astonishment and wonder than any of us." - -[J] Page 11, Report on Explorations of Parts of Wyoming, Idaho and -Montana, 1882. See Appendix E. - -Evidence like the foregoing clearly indicates that this country was -_terra incognita_ to the vast body of Indians who dwelt around it, and -again this singular fact presents itself for explanation. Was it, as -is generally supposed, a "superstitious fear" that kept them away? The -incidents just related give some color to such a theory; but if it -were really true we should expect to find well authenticated Indian -traditions of so marvelous a country. Unfortunately history records -none. It is not meant by this to imply that reputed traditions -concerning the Yellowstone are unknown. For instance, it is related -that the Crows always refused to tell the whites of the geysers -because they believed that whoever visited them became endowed with -supernatural powers, and they wished to retain a monopoly of this -knowledge. But traditions of this sort, like most Indian curiosities -now offered for sale, are evidently of spurious origin. Only in the -names "Yellowstone" and "Burning Mountains" do we find any original -evidence that this land of wonders appealed in the least degree to the -native imagination. - -The real explanation of this remarkable ignorance appears to us to -rest on grounds essentially practical. There was nothing to induce the -Indians to visit the Park country. For three-fourths of the year that -country is inaccessible on account of snow. It is covered with dense -forests, which in most places are so filled with fallen timber and -tangled underbrush as to be practically impassable. As a game country -in those early days it could not compare with the lower surrounding -valleys. As a highway of communication between the valleys of the -Missouri, Snake, Yellowstone, and Bighorn Rivers, it was no -thoroughfare. The great routes, except the Bannock trail already -described, lay on the outside. All the conditions, therefore, which -might attract the Indians to this region were wanting. Even those -sentimental influences, such as a love of sublime scenery and a -curiosity to see the strange freaks of nature, evidently had less -weight with them than with their pale-face brethren. - -Summarizing the results of such knowledge, confessedly meager, as -exists upon this subject, it appears: - -(1.) That the country now embraced in the Yellowstone National Park was -occupied, at the time of its discovery, by small bands of Sheepeater -Indians, probably not exceeding in number one hundred and fifty souls. -They dwelt in the neighborhood of the Washburn and Absaroka Ranges, and -among the mountains around the sources of the Snake. They were not -familiar with the geyser regions. - -(2.) Wandering bands from other tribes occasionally visited this -country, but generally along the line of the Yellowstone River or the -Great Bannock Trail. Their knowledge of the geyser regions was extremely -limited, and very few had ever seen or heard of them. It is probable -that the Indians visited this country more frequently in earlier times -than since the advent of the white man. - -(3.) The Indians avoided the region of the Upper Yellowstone from -practical, rather than from sentimental, considerations. - -The legal processes by which the vast territory of these various -tribes passed to the United States, are full of incongruities -resulting from a general ignorance of the country in question. By the -Treaty of Fort Laramie, dated September 17, 1851, between the United -States on the one hand, and the Crows, Blackfeet and other northern -tribes on the other, the Crows were given, as part of their territory, -all that portion of the Park country which lies east of the -Yellowstone River; and the Blackfeet, all that portion lying between -the Yellowstone River and the Continental Divide. This was before any -thing whatever was known of the country so given away. None of the -Shoshone tribes were party to the treaty, and the rights of the -Sheepeaters were utterly ignored. That neither the Blackfeet nor the -Crows had any real claim to these extravagant grants is evidenced by -their prompt relinquishment of them in the first subsequent treaties. -Thus, by treaty of October 17, 1855, the Blackfeet agreed that all of -their portion of the Park country, with much other territory, should -be and remain a common hunting ground for certain designated tribes; -and by treaty of May 17, 1868, the Crows relinquished all of their -territory south of the Montana boundary line. - -That portion of the Park country drained by the Snake River was always -considered Shoshone territory, although apparently never formally -recognized in any public treaty. By an unratified treaty, dated -September 24, 1868, the provisions of which seem to have been the -basis of subsequent arrangements with the Shoshonean tribes, all this -territory and much besides was ceded to the United States, and the -tribes were located upon small reservations. - -It thus appears that at the time the Park was created, March 1, 1872, -all the territory included in its limits had been ceded to the United -States except the hunting ground above referred to, and the narrow -strip of Crow territory east of the Yellowstone where the north -boundary of the Park lies two or three miles north of the Montana -line. The "hunting ground" arrangement was abrogated by statute of -April 15, 1874, and the strip of Crow territory was purchased under an -agreement with the Crows, dated June 12, 1880, and ratified by -Congress, April 11, 1882, thus extinguishing the last remaining Indian -title to any portion of the Yellowstone Park. - - - - -CHAPTER III. - -JOHN COLTER. - - -Lewis and Clark passed the second winter of their expedition at the -mouth of the Columbia River. In the spring and summer of 1806 they -accomplished their return to St. Louis. Upon their arrival at the site -of their former winter quarters among the Mandans, an incident -occurred which forms the initial point in the history of the -Yellowstone National Park. It is thus recorded in the journal of the -expedition under date of August 14 and 15, 1806:[K] - -"In the evening we were applied to by one of our men, Colter, who was -desirous of joining the two trappers who had accompanied us, and who -now proposed an expedition up the river, in which they were to find -traps and give him a share of the profits. The offer was a very -advantageous one, and, as he had always performed his duty, and his -services might be dispensed with, we agreed that he might go provided -none of the rest would ask or expect a similar indulgence. To this -they cheerfully answered that they wished Colter every success and -would not apply for liberty to separate before we reached St. Louis. -We therefore supplied him, as did his comrades also, with powder, -lead, and a variety of articles which might be useful to him, and he -left us the next day." - -[K] Pages 1181-2, Coues' "Lewis and Clark." See Appendix E. - -To our explorers, just returning from a two years' sojourn in the -wilderness, Colter's decision seemed too remarkable to be passed over -in silence. The journal continues: - -"The example of this man shows us how easily men may be weaned from -the habits of civilized life to the ruder but scarcely less -fascinating manners of the woods. This hunter has now been absent for -many years from the frontiers, and might naturally be presumed to have -some anxiety, or some curiosity at least, to return to his friends and -his country; yet just at the moment when he is approaching the -frontiers, he is tempted by a hunting scheme to give up those -delightful prospects, and go back without the least reluctance to the -solitude of the woods." - -Colter seems to have stood well in the esteem of his officers. Besides -the fair character given him in his discharge, the record of the -expedition shows that he was frequently selected when one or two men -were required for important special duty. That he had a good eye for -topography may be inferred from the fact that Captain Clark, several -years after the expedition was over, placed upon his map certain -important information on the strength of Colter's statements, who -alone had traversed the region in question. In another instance, when -Bradbury, the English naturalist, was about to leave St. Louis to join -the Astorians in the spring of 1811, Clark referred him to Colter, who -had returned from the mountains, as a person who could conduct him to -a certain natural curiosity on the Missouri some distance above St. -Charles. Colter had not seen the place for six years. In the _Missouri -Gazette_, for April 18, 1811, he is referred to as a "celebrated -hunter and woodsman." These glimpses of his record, and a remarkable -incident to be related further on, clearly indicate that he was a man -of superior mettle to that of the average hunter and trapper. - -Colter's whereabouts during the three years following his discharge -are difficult to fix upon. It may, however, be set down as certain -that he and his companions ascended the Yellowstone River, not the -Missouri. Captain Clark's return journey down the first-mentioned -stream had made known to them that it was better beaver country than -the Missouri, and Colter's subsequent wanderings clearly indicate that -his base of operations was in the valley of the Yellowstone near the -mouth of the Bighorn, Pryor's Fork, or other tributary stream. - -In the summer of 1807, he made an expedition, apparently alone, -although probably in company with Indians, which has given him title -to a place in the history of the Yellowstone Park, and which was -destined in later years to assume an importance little enough -suspected by him at the time. His route appears upon Lewis and Clark's -map of 1814, and is there called "Colter's route in 1807." There is no -note or explanation, and we are left to retrace, on the basis of a -dotted line, a few names, and a date, one of those singular individual -wanderings through the wilderness which now and then find a permanent -place in history. - -The "route," as traced on the map, starts from a point on Pryor's -Fork, the first considerable tributary of the Yellowstone above the -mouth of the Bighorn. Colter's intention seems to have been to skirt -the eastern base of the Absaroka Range until he should reach an -accessible pass across the mountains of which the Indians had -probably told him; then to cross over to the headwaters of Pacific or -gulf-flowing streams; and then to return by way of the Upper -Yellowstone. - -[Illustration: /* _Opp. page 22._ */ - -Colter's Route in 1807.] - -Accordingly, after he had passed through Pryor's Gap, he took a -south-westerly direction as far as Clark's Fork, which stream he -ascended for some distance, and then crossed over to the -Stinkingwater. Here he discovered a large boiling spring, strongly -impregnated with tar and sulphur, the odor of which, perceptible for a -great distance around, has given the stream its "unhappy name." - -From this point Colter continued along the eastern flank of the -Absaroka Range, fording the several tributaries of the Bighorn River -which flow down from that range, and finally came to the upper course -of the main stream now known as Wind River. He ascended this stream to -its source, crossing the divide in the vicinity of Lincoln or Union -Pass, and found himself upon the Pacific slope. The map clearly shows -that at this point he had reached what the Indians called the "summit -of the world" near by the sources of all great streams of the west. -That he discovered one of the easy passes between Wind River and the -Pacific slope, is evident from the reference in the _Missouri Gazette_ -already alluded to and here reproduced for the first time. It is from -the pen of a Mr. H. M. Brackenridge, a contemporary writer of note on -topics of western adventure. It reads: - -"At the head of the Gallatin Fork, and of the Grosse Corne of the -Yellowstone [the Bighorn River], from discoveries since the voyage of -Lewis and Clark, it is found less difficult to cross than the -Allegheny Mountains. Coulter, a celebrated hunter and woodsman, -informed me that a loaded wagon would find no obstruction in passing." - -The "discoveries" are of course those of Colter, for no other white -man at this time had been in those parts. - -From the summit of the mountains he descended to the westward; crossed -the Snake River and Teton Pass to Pierre's Hole, and then turned -north, recrossing the Teton Range by the Indian trail in the valley of -what is now Conant Creek, just north of Jackson Lake.[L] Thence he -continued his course until he reached Yellowstone Lake,[L] at some -point along its south-western shore. He passed around the west shore -to the northernmost point of the Thumb, and then resumed his northerly -course over the hills arriving at the Yellowstone River in the valley -of Alum Creek. He followed the left bank of the river to the ford just -above Tower Falls, where the great Bannock Trail used to cross, and -then followed this trail to its junction with his outward route on -Clark's Fork. From this point he re-crossed to the Stinkingwater, -possibly in order to re-visit the strange phenomena there, but more -probably to explore new trapping territory on his way back. He -descended the Stinkingwater until about south of Pryor's Gap, when he -turned north and shortly after arrived at his starting point. - -[L] For the names given by Captain Clark to these bodies of water, see -Appendix A, "Jackson Lake" and "Yellowstone Lake." - -The direction of Colter's progress, as here indicated, and the -identification of certain geographical features noted by him, differ -somewhat from the ordinary interpretation of that adventure. But, -while it would be absurd to dogmatize upon so uncertain a subject, it -is believed that the theory adopted is fairly well supported by the -facts as now known. It must in the first place be assumed that Colter -exercised ordinary common sense upon this journey and availed himself -of all information that could facilitate his progress. It is probable -that he was under the guidance of Indians who knew the country; but if -not, he frequently stopped, like any traveler in an unknown region, to -inquire his way. He sought the established trails, low mountain -passes, and well-known fords, and did not, as the map suggests, take a -direction that would carry him through the very roughest and most -impassable mountain country on the continent. It is necessary to -orient his map so as to make both his outgoing and return routes -extend nearly due north and south, instead of north-east and -south-west, in order to reconcile his geography at all with the modern -maps. With these precautions some of the difficulty of the situation -disappears. - -Colter, it is therefore assumed, followed the great trail along the -Absarokas to the Wind River Valley, and crossed the divide by one of -the easy passes at its head. His two crossings of the Teton range were -along established trails. He evidently lost his bearings somewhat in -the vicinity of the Yellowstone Lake, but as soon as he arrived at the -river below the lake he kept along the trail until he reached the -important crossing at Tower Falls. If he was in company with Indians -who had ever been through that country before, he learned that it -would be no advantage to cross at Mud Geyser, inasmuch as he would -strike the great Bannock Trail at the next ford below. Moreover, the -distance below the lake to the point where Colter touched the -Yellowstone is clearly greater than that to the Mud Geyser Ford. The -bend in the river at the Great Falls, and the close proximity of the -Washburn Range to the river, are distinctly indicated. The locality -noted on the map as "Hot Springs Brimstone" is evidently not that near -the Mud Geyser, as generally assumed, but instead, that of the now -world-renowned Mammoth Hot Springs. As will be seen from the map, it -is nearer the Gallatin River than it is to the Yellowstone _where -Colter crossed_. If Colter visited the Springs from Tower Falls, as is -not unlikely, a clue is supplied to the otherwise perplexing reference -to the Gallatin River in the above extract from the _Missouri -Gazette_, for it would thus appear that he was near the sources of -both the Grosse Corne and of the Gallatin. - -The essential difficulties in the way of this theory (and they exist -with any possible theory that can be advanced) are the following: (1.) -There is no stream on the map that can stand for the Snake River -either above or below Jackson Lake, although Colter must have crossed -it in each place. "Colter's River" comes nearest the first location, -and may possibly be intended to represent that stream; but Clark's -evident purpose to drain Jackson Lake into the Bighorn River doubtless -led to a distortion of the map in this locality. (2.) The erroneous -shape given to the Yellowstone Lake will be readily understood by any -one who has visited its western shore. The jutting promontories to -the eastward entirely conceal from view the great body of the lake and -give it a form not unlike that upon Clark's map. (3.) The absence of -the Great Falls from the map is not easily accounted for, although the -location and trend of the Grand Cañon are shown with remarkable -accuracy. (4.) The absence of the many hot springs districts, through -which Colter passed, particularly that at the west end of the -Yellowstone Lake, may be explained by the same spirit of incredulity -which led to the rejection of all similar accounts for a period of -more than sixty years. It is probable that Clark was not willing to -recognize Colter's statements on this subject further than to note on -his map the location of the most wonderful of the hot springs groups -mentioned by him. - -The direction in which Colter traveled is a matter of no essential -importance, and that here adopted is based solely upon the -consideration that the doubling of the trail upon itself between -Clark's Fork and the Stinkingwater River, and the erratic course of -the route around Yellowstone Lake, can not be well accounted for on -the contrary hypothesis.[M] - -[M] In adopting, as Colter's point of crossing the Yellowstone, the -ford at Tower Creek, the author has followed the Hon. N. P. Langford, -in his reprint of Folsom's "Valley of the Upper Yellowstone." (See -Appendix E.) All other writers who have touched upon the subject have -assumed the ford to be that near the Mud Geyser. - -Such, in the main, is "Colter's route in 1807." That he was the -discoverer of Yellowstone Lake, and the foremost herald of the strange -phenomena of that region, may be accepted as beyond question. He did -not, as is generally supposed, see the Firehole Geyser Basins. But he -saw too much for his reputation as a man of veracity. No author or -map-maker would jeopardize the success of his work by incorporating in -it such incredible material as Colter furnished. His stories were not -believed; their author became the subject of jest and ridicule; and -the region of his adventures was long derisively known as "Colter's -Hell."[N] - -[N] This name early came to be restricted to the locality where Colter -discovered the tar spring on the Stinkingwater, probably because few -trappers ever saw the other similar localities visited by him. But -Colter's descriptions, so well summed up by Irving in his "Captain -Bonneville," undoubtedly refer in large part to what he saw in the -Yellowstone and Snake River Valleys. - -The story of Colter's subsequent experience before he returned to St. -Louis is thrilling in the extreme. Although it has no direct bearing -upon this narrative, still, since it is part of the biography of the -discoverer of the Upper Yellowstone, it can not be omitted. The -detailed account we owe to the naturalist Bradbury, already referred -to. He saw Colter above St. Louis in the spring of 1811, one year -after his return from the mountains, and received the story directly -from him. All other accounts are variations from Bradbury. Irving, who -has made this story an Indian classic, borrows it _in toto_. Perhaps -in all the records of Indian adventure there is not another instance -of such a miraculous escape, in which the details are throughout so -clearly within the range of possibility. It is a consistent narrative -from beginning to end. In briefest outline it is as follows: - -When Colter returned from his expedition of 1807, he found Manuel -Lisa, of the Missouri Fur Company, already in the country, where he -had just arrived from St. Louis. With him was one Potts, believed to -be the same person who had been a private in the party of Lewis and -Clark. In the spring of 1808, Colter and his old companion in arms set -out to the headwaters of the Missouri on a trapping expedition. It was -on a branch of Jefferson Fork that they went to work, and here they -met with their disastrous experience. - -One morning while they were in a canoe examining their traps they were -surprised by a large party of Blackfeet Indians. Potts attempted -resistance and was slain on the spot. Colter, with more presence of -mind, gave himself up as the only possible chance of avoiding -immediate death. The Indians then consulted as to how they should kill -him in order to yield themselves the greatest amount of amusement. -Colter, upon being questioned as to his fleetness of foot, sagaciously -replied that he was a poor runner (though in fact very swift), and the -Indians, believing that it would be a safe experiment, decided that he -should run for his life. Accordingly he was stripped naked and was led -by the chief to a point three or four hundred yards in advance of the -main body of the Indians. Here he was told "_to save himself if he -could_," and the race began--one man against five hundred. - -The Indians quickly saw how they had been outwitted, for Colter flew -away from them as if upon the wings of the wind. But his speed cost -him dear. The exertion caused the blood to stream from his mouth and -nostrils, and run down over his naked form. The prickly pear and the -rough ground lacerated his feet. Six miles away across a level plain -was a fringe of cottonwood on the banks of the Jefferson River. Short -of that lay not a shadow of chance of concealment. It was a long race, -but life hung upon the issue. The Indians had not counted on such -prodigious running. Gradually they fell off, and when Colter ventured -for the first time to glance back, only a small number were in his -wake. Encouragement was now added to hope, and he ran even faster than -before. - -But there was one Indian who was too much for him. He was steadily -shortening the distance between them, and at last had arrived within a -spear's throw. Was Colter to be slain by a single Indian after having -distanced five hundred? He would see. Suddenly whirling about, he -confronted the Indian, who was astounded at the sudden move and at -Colter's bloody appearance. He tried to hurl his spear but stumbled -and broke it as he fell. Colter seized the pointed portion and pinned -the Indian to the earth. - -Again he resumed his flight. He reached the Jefferson, and discovered, -some distance below, a raft of driftwood against the head of an -island. He dived under this raft and found a place where he could get -his head above water. There, in painful suspense, he awaited -developments. The Indians explored the island and examined the raft, -but Colter's audacious spirit was beyond their comprehension. It did -not occur to them that he was all the time surveying their movements -from his hiding place under the timber, and they finally abandoned the -search and withdrew. Colter had saved himself. When evening came he -swam several miles down the river and then went ashore. For seven -days he wandered naked and unarmed, over stones, cacti, and the -prickly pear, scorched by the heat of noon and chilled by the frost of -night, finding his sole subsistence in such roots as he might dig, -until at last he reached Lisa's trading post on the Bighorn River. - -Even this terrible adventure could not dismay the dauntless Colter, -and he remained still another year in the mountains. Finally, in the -spring of 1810, he got into a canoe and dropped down the river, "three -thousand miles in thirty days," reaching St. Louis, May 1st, after an -absence of six years. - -Colter remained in St. Louis for a time giving Clark what information -he could concerning the places he had seen, and evidently talking a -great deal about his adventures. Finally he retired to the country -some distance up the Missouri, and married. Here we again catch a -glimpse of him when the Astorians were on their way up the river. As -Colter saw the well appointed expedition setting out for the -mountains, the old fever seized him again and he was upon the point of -joining the party. But what the hardships of the wilderness and the -pleasures of civilization could not dissuade him from doing, the -charms of a newly-married wife easily accomplished. Colter remained -behind; and here the curtain of oblivion falls upon the discoverer of -the Yellowstone. It is not without genuine satisfaction that, having -followed him through the incredible mazes of "Colter's Hell," we bid -him adieu amid surroundings of so different a character. - - - - -CHAPTER IV. - -THE TRADER AND TRAPPER. - - -For sixty years after Lewis and Clark returned from their expedition, -the headwaters of the Yellowstone remained unexplored except by the -trader and trapper. The traffic in peltries it was that first induced -extensive exploration of the west. Concerning the precious metals, the -people seem to have had little faith in their abundant existence in -the west, and no organized search for them was made in the earlier -years of the century. But that country, even in its unsettled state, -had other and important sources of wealth. Myriads of beaver inhabited -the streams and innumerable buffalo roamed the valleys. The buffalo -furnished the trapper with means of subsistence, and beaver furs were -better than mines of gold. Far in advance of the tide of settlement -the lonely trapper, and after him the trader, penetrated the unknown -west. Gradually the enterprise of individuals crystallized around a -few important nuclei and there grew up those great fur-trading -companies which for many years exercised a kind of paternal sway over -the Indians and the scarcely more civilized trappers. A brief resumé -of the history of these companies will show how important a place they -occupy in the early history of the Upper Yellowstone. - -The climax of the western fur business may be placed at about the year -1830. At that time three great companies operated in territories whose -converging lines of separation centered in the region about -Yellowstone Lake. The oldest and most important of them, and the one -destined to outlive the others, was the world-renowned Hudson's Bay -Company. It was at that time more than a century and a half old. Its -earlier history was in marked contrast with that of later years. -Secure in the monopoly which its extensive charter rights guaranteed, -it had been content with substantial profits and had never pushed its -business far into new territory nor managed it with aggressive vigor. -It was not until forced to action by the encroachments of a dangerous -rival, that it became the prodigious power of later times. - -This rival was the great North-west Fur Company of Montreal: It had -grown up since the French and Indian War, partly as a result of that -conflict, and finally took corporate form in 1787. It had none of the -important territorial rights of the Hudson's Bay Company, but its lack -of monopoly was more than made up by the enterprise of its promoters. -With its bands of Canadian frontiersmen, it boldly penetrated the -north-west and paid little respect to those territorial rights which -its venerable rival was powerless to enforce. It rapidly extended its -operations far into the unexplored interior. Lewis and Clark found its -traders among the Mandans in 1804. In 1811 the Astorians saw its first -party descend the Columbia to the sea. Two years later the American -traders on the Pacific Coast were forced to succumb to their British -rivals. - -A long and bitter strife now ensued between the two British companies. -It even assumed the magnitude of civil war, and finally resulted in a -frightful massacre of unoffending colonists. The British government -interfered and forced the rivals into court, where they were brought -to the verge of ruin by protracted litigation. A compromise was at -last effected in 1821 by an amalgamation of the two companies under -the name of the older rival. - -But in the meantime a large part of their best fur country had been -lost. In 1815 the government of the United States excluded British -traders from its territory east of the Rocky Mountains. To the west of -this limit, however, the amalgamated company easily forced all its -rivals from the field. No American fur company ever attained the -splendid organization, nor the influence over the Indians, possessed -by the Hudson's Bay Company. At the time of which we write it was -master of the trade in the Columbia River valley, and the eastern -limit of its operations within the territory of the United States was -nearly coincident with the present western boundary of the Yellowstone -Park. - -The second of the great companies to which reference has been made was -the American Fur Company. It was the final outcome of John Jacob -Astor's various attempts to control the fur trade of the United -States. Although it was incorporated in 1809, it was for a time -overshadowed by the more brilliant enterprises known as the Pacific -Fur Company and the Southwest Fur Company. The history of Mr. Astor's -Pacific Fur Company, the dismal experiences of the Astorians, and the -deplorable failure of the whole undertaking, are matters familiar to -all readers of Irving's "Astoria." - -The other project gave for a time more substantial promise of -success. A British company of considerable importance, under the name -of the Mackinaw Company, with headquarters at Michilimacinac, had for -some time operated in the country about the headwaters of the -Mississippi now included in the states of Wisconsin and Minnesota. -Astor succeeded in forming a new company, partly with American and -partly with Canadian capital. This company bought out the Mackinaw -Company, and changed the name to South-west Fur Company. But scarcely -had its promising career begun when it was cut short by the War of -1812. - -The failure of these two attempts caused Mr. Astor to turn to the old -American Fur Company. The exclusion Act of 1815 enabled him to buy at -his own price the North-west Fur Company's posts on the upper rivers, -and the American Company rapidly extended its trade over all the -country, from Lake Superior to the Rocky Mountains. Its posts -multiplied in every direction, and at an early date steamboats began -to do its business up the Missouri River from St. Louis. It gradually -absorbed lesser concerns, such as the Missouri Fur Company, and the -Columbia Fur Company, and in 1823 was reorganized under the name of -The North American Fur Company. In 1834, Astor sold his interests to -Chouteau, Valle and Company, of St. Louis, and retired from the -business. At this time the general western limit of the territory -operated in by this formidable company was the northern and eastern -slope of the mountains which bound the Yellowstone Park on the north -and east. Its line of operations was down the river to St. Louis, and -its great trading posts were located at frequent intervals between. - -The third of the great rival companies was the Rocky Mountain Fur -Company, which originated in St. Louis in 1822, and received its full -organization in 1826 under the direction of Jedediah Smith, David -Jackson and William Sublette. Among the leading spirits, who at one -time or another guided its affairs, was the famous mountaineer James -Bridger to whom frequent reference will be made. - -This company had its general center of operations on the head waters -of Green River to the west of South Pass. Unlike the other companies, -it had no navigable stream along which it could establish posts and -conduct its operations. By the necessities of its exclusively mountain -trade it developed a new feature of the fur business. The _voyageur_, -with his canoe and oar, gave way to the mountaineer, with his saddle -and rifle. The trading post was replaced by the annual rendezvous, -which was in many points the forerunner of the later cattle "roundups" -of the plains. These rendezvous were agreed upon each year at -localities best suited for the convenience of the trade. Hither in the -spring came from the east convoys of supplies for the season's use. -Hither repaired also the various parties of hunters and trappers and -such bands of Indians as roamed in the vicinity. These meetings were -great occasions, both in the transaction of business and in the round -of festivities that always prevailed. After the traffic of the -occasion was over, and the plans for the ensuing year were agreed -upon, the convoys returned to the States and the trappers to their -retreats in the mountains. The field of operations of this company -was very extensive and included about all of the West not controlled -by the Hudson's Bay and American Fur Companies. - -Thus was the territory of the great West practically parceled out -among these three companies.[O] It must not be supposed that there was -any agreement, tacit or open, that each company should keep within -certain limits. There were, indeed, a few temporary arrangements of -this sort, but for the most part each company maintained the right to -work in any territory it saw fit, and there was constant invasion by -each of the proper territories of the other. But the practical -necessities of the business kept them, broadly speaking, within the -limits which we have noted. The roving bands of "free trappers" and -"lone traders," and individual expeditions like those of Captain -Bonneville and Nathaniel J. Wyeth, acknowledged allegiance to none of -the great organizations, but wandered where they chose, dealing by -turns with each of the companies. - -[O] A singular and striking coincidence at once discloses itself to -any one who compares maps showing the territories operated in by these -three companies, and those which belonged to the three great families -of Indians mentioned in a preceding chapter. By far the larger part of -the Hudson's Bay Company's territory, as far west as the main range of -the Rocky Mountains, was Algonquian. The American Fur Company's -territory was almost entirely Siouan, and that of the Rocky Mountain -Fur Company, Shoshonean. - -Nor did any company maintain an exclusive monopoly of its peculiar -methods of conducting business. The American Fur Company frequently -held rendezvous at points remote from its trading posts; and the Rocky -Mountain Fur Company in later years resorted to the Missouri River as -its line of supplies. In fact, the interests of the two companies -finally became to such an extent dependent upon each other that a -union was effected, in 1839, under the firm name of P. Chouteau, Jr. - -The records of those early days abound in references to the fierce -competition in trade which existed between these great organizations. -It led to every manner of device or subterfuge which might deceive a -rival as to routes, conceal from him important trapping grounds, -undermine the loyalty of his employes or excite the hostility of the -Indians against him. It often led to deeds of violence, and made the -presence of a rival band of trappers more dreaded than a war party of -the implacable Blackfeet. - -The vigor and enterprise of these traders caused their business to -penetrate the remotest and most inaccessible corners of the land. -Silliman's Journal for January, 1834, declares that-- - -"The mountains and forests, from the Arctic Sea to the Gulf of Mexico, -are threaded through every maze by the hunter. Every river and -tributary stream, from the Columbia to the Rio del Norte, and from the -Mackenzie to the Colorado of the West, from their head waters to their -junctions, are searched and trapped for beaver." - -That a business of such all-pervading character should have left a -region like our present Yellowstone Park unexplored would seem -extremely doubtful. That region lay, a sort of neutral ground, between -the territories of the rival fur companies. Its streams abounded with -beaver; and, although hemmed in by vast mountains, and snow-bound most -of the year, it could not have escaped discovery. In fact, every part -of it was repeatedly visited by trappers. Rendezvous were held on -every side of it, and once, it is believed, in Hayden Valley, just -north of Yellowstone Lake. Had the fur business been more enduring, -the geyser regions would have become known at least a generation -sooner. - -But a business carried on with such relentless vigor naturally soon -taxed the resources of nature beyond its capacity for reproduction. In -regions under the control of a single organization, as in the vast -domains of the Hudson's Bay Company, great care was taken to preserve -the fur-bearing animals from extinction; but in United States -territory, the exigencies of competition made any such provision -impossible. The poor beaver, as at a later day the buffalo, quickly -succumbed to his ubiquitous enemies. There was no spot remote enough -for him to build his dam in peace, and the once innumerable multitude -speedily dwindled away. The few years immediately preceding and -following 1830 were the halcyon days of the fur trade in the United -States. Thenceforward it rapidly declined, and by 1850 had shrunk to a -mere shadow of its former greatness. With its disappearance the early -knowledge of the Upper Yellowstone also disappeared. Subsequent -events--the Mormon emigration, the war with Mexico, and the discovery -of gold--drew attention, both private and official, in other -directions; and the great wonderland became again almost as much -unknown as in the days of Lewis and Clark. - - - - -CHAPTER V. - -EARLY KNOWLEDGE OF THE YELLOWSTONE. - - -On the west bank of the Yellowstone River, a quarter of a mile above -the Upper Falls, in a ravine now crossed by a lofty wooden bridge, -stands a pine tree, on which is the oldest record, except that of -Colter, of the presence of white men within the present limits of the -Park. It is an inscription, giving the initials of a name and the date -when inscribed. It was discovered in 1880 by Col. P. W. Norris, then -Superintendent of the Park. It is now practically illegible from -overgrowth, although some of the characters can still be made out. -Col. Norris, who saw it fifteen years ago, claims to have successfully -deciphered it. He verified the date by counting the annual rings on -another tree near by, which bore hatchet marks, presumably of the same -date. The time that had elapsed since these cuts were made -corresponded well with the inscribed date. The inscription was: - - J O R - Aug 19 1819 - -Efforts have been made to trace this inscription to some of the early -noted trappers, but the attempt can hardly succeed. Even if an -identity of initials were established, the identity of individuals -would still remain in doubt. Nothing short of some authentic record of -such a visit as must have taken place can satisfy the requirements of -the case. In the absence of any such record, the most that can be -said is that the inscription is proof positive that the Park country -was visited by white men, after Colter's time, fully fifty years -before its final discovery. - -Col. Norris' researches disclosed other similar evidence, although in -no other instance with so plain a clue as to date. Near Beaver Lake -and Obsidian Cliff, he found, in 1878, a cache of marten traps of an -old pattern used by the Hudson's Bay Company's trappers fifty years -before. He also examined the ruins of an ancient block-house -discovered by Frederick Bottler at the base of Mt. Washburn, near the -Grand Cañon of the Yellowstone. Its decayed condition indicated great -age. In other places, the stumps of trees, old logs used to cross -streams, and many similar proofs, were brought to light by that -inveterate ranger of the wilderness. - -The Washburn party, in 1870, discovered on the east bank of the -Yellowstone, just above Mud Geyser, the remains of a pit, probably -once used for concealment in shooting water fowl. - -In 1882, there was still living in Montana, at the advanced age of one -hundred and two years, a Frenchman by the name of Baptiste Ducharne. -This man spent the summers of 1824 and 1826 on the Upper Yellowstone -River trapping for beaver. He saw the Grand Cañon and Falls of the -Yellowstone and the Yellowstone Lake. He passed through the geyser -regions, and could accurately describe them more than half a century -after he had seen them. - -A book called "The River of the West,"[P] published in 1871, but -copyrighted in 1869, before the publication of any modern account of -the geyser regions, contains the record of an adventure in the -Yellowstone three years after those of Ducharne. The book is a -biography of one Joseph Meek, a trapper and pioneer of considerable -note. The adventure to which reference is made took place in 1829, and -was the result of a decision by the Rocky Mountain Fur Company to -retire from competition with the Hudson's Bay Company in the Snake -River Valley. In leaving the country, Captain William Sublette, the -chief partner, led his party up Henry Fork, across the Madison and -Gallatin Rivers, to the high ridge overlooking the Yellowstone, at -some point near the present Cinnabar Mountain. Here the party was -dispersed by a band of Blackfeet, and Meek, one of its members, became -separated from his companions. He had lost his horse and most of his -equipment and in this condition he wandered for several days, without -food or shelter, until he was found by two of his companions. His -route lay in a southerly direction, to the eastward of the -Yellowstone, at some distance back from the river. On the morning of -the fifth day he had the following experience: - -"Being desirous to learn something of the progress he had made, he -ascended a low mountain in the neighborhood of his camp, and behold! -the whole country beyond was smoking with vapor from boiling springs, -and burning with gases issuing from small craters, each of which was -emitting a sharp, whistling sound. When the first surprise of this -astonishing scene had passed, Joe began to admire its effect from an -artistic point of view. The morning being clear, with a sharp frost, -he thought himself reminded of the City of Pittsburg, as he had beheld -it on a winter morning, a couple of years before. This, however, -related only to the rising smoke and vapor; for the extent of the -volcanic region was immense, reaching far out of sight. The general -face of the country was smooth and rolling, being a level plain, -dotted with cone-shaped mounds. On the summit of these mounds were -small craters from four to eight feet in diameter. Interspersed among -these on the level plain were larger craters, some of them from four -to six miles across. Out of these craters, issued blue flames and -molten brimstone."[Q] - -[P] See Appendix E. - -[Q] Page 75, "River of the West." - -Making some allowance for the trapper's tendency to exaggeration, we -recognize in this description the familiar picture of the hot springs -districts. The precise location is difficult to determine; but Meek's -previous wanderings, and the subsequent route of himself and his -companions whom he met here, show conclusively that it was one of the -numerous districts east of the Yellowstone, which were possibly then -more active than now. - -This book affords much other evidence of early knowledge of the -country immediately bordering the present Park. The Great Bend of the -Yellowstone where Livingston now stands, was already a famous -rendezvous. The Gardiner and Firehole Rivers were well known to -trappers; and a much-used trail led from the Madison across the -Gallatin Range to the Gardiner, and thence up the Yellowstone and East -Fork across the mountains to the Bighorn Valley. - -In Vol. I, No. 17, August 13, 1842, of _The Wasp_, a Mormon paper -published at Nauvoo, Ill., occurs the first, as it is by far the best, -of all early accounts of the geyser regions prior to 1870. It is an -extract from an unpublished work, entitled _Life in the Rocky -Mountains_. Who was the author will probably never be known; but that -he was a man of culture and education, altogether beyond the average -trader, is evident from the passing glimpse which we have of his work. -He apparently made his visit from some point in the valley of Henry -Fork not far west of the Firehole River, for, at the utmost allowance, -he traveled only about sixty or seventy miles to reach the geyser -basins. The evidence is conclusive that the scene of this visit was -the Upper Geyser Basin. It fits perfectly with the description, while -numerous insuperable discrepancies render identification with the -Lower Basin, which some have sought to establish, impossible. -Following is this writer's narrative: - -"I had heard in the summer of 1833, while at rendezvous, that -remarkable boiling springs had been discovered on the sources of the -Madison, by a party of trappers, in their spring hunt; of which the -accounts they gave, were so very astonishing, that I determined to -examine them myself, before recording their description, though I had -the united testimony of more than twenty men on the subject, who all -declared they saw them, and that they really were as extensive and -remarkable as they had been described. Having now an opportunity of -paying them a visit, and as another or a better might not occur, I -parted with the company after supper, and taking with me two Pend -d'Oreilles (who were induced to take the excursion with me, by the -promise of an extra present,) set out at a round pace, the night being -clear and comfortable. We proceeded over the plain about twenty miles, -and halted until daylight, on a fine spring, flowing into Camas Creek. -Refreshed by a few hours' sleep, we started again after a hasty -breakfast, and entered a very extensive forest, called the Pine Woods; -(a continued succession of low mountains or hills, entirely covered -with a dense growth of this species of timber;) which we passed -through and reached the vicinity of the springs about dark, having -seen several lakes or ponds on the sources of the Madison, and rode -about forty miles; which was a hard day's ride, taking into -consideration the rough irregularity of the country through which we -traveled. - -"We regaled ourselves with a cup of coffee, the materials for making -which we had brought with us, and immediately after supper, lay down -to rest, sleepy and much fatigued. The continual roaring of the -springs, however, (which was distinctly heard,) for some time -prevented my going to sleep, and excited an impatient curiosity to -examine them, which I was obliged to defer the gratification of until -morning, and filled my slumbers with visions of waterspouts, -cataracts, fountains, _jets d'eau_ of immense dimensions, etc., etc. - -"When I arose in the morning, clouds of vapor seemed like a dense fog -to overhang the springs, from which frequent reports or explosions of -different loudness, constantly assailed our ears. I immediately -proceeded to inspect them, and might have exclaimed with the Queen of -Sheba, when their full reality of dimensions and novelty burst upon my -view, 'the half was not told me.' - -"From the surface of a rocky plain or table, burst forth columns of -water, of various dimensions, projecting high in the air, accompanied -by loud explosions, and sulphurous vapors, which were highly -disagreeable to the smell. The rock from which these springs burst -forth was calcareous, and probably extends some distance from them, -beneath the soil. The largest of these beautiful fountains projects a -column of boiling water several feet in diameter, to the height of -more than one hundred and fifty feet, in my opinion; but the party of -Alvarez, who discovered it, persist in declaring that it could not be -less than four times that distance in height--accompanied with a -tremendous noise. These explosions and discharges occur at intervals -of about two hours. After having witnessed three of them, I ventured -near enough, to put my hand into the waters of its basin, but withdrew -it instantly, for the heat of the water in this immense cauldron was -altogether too great for my comfort; and the agitation of the water, -the disagreeable effluvium continually exuding, and the hollow -unearthly rumbling under the rock on which I stood, so ill accorded -with my notions of personal safety, that I retreated back -precipitately to a respectful distance. The Indians, who were with me, -were quite appalled, and could not by any means be induced to approach -them. They seemed astonished at my presumption in advancing up to the -large one, and when I safely returned, congratulated me upon my -'narrow escape.' They believed them to be supernatural and supposed -them to be the production of the Evil Spirit. One of them remarked -that hell, of which he had heard from the whites, must be in that -vicinity. The diameter of the basin into which the waters of the -largest jet principally fall, and from the center of which, through a -hole in the rock, of about nine or ten feet in diameter, the water -spouts up as above related, may be about thirty feet. There are many -other smaller fountains, that did not throw their waters up so high, -but occurred at shorter intervals. In some instances the volumes were -projected obliquely upward, and fell into the neighboring fountains, -or on the rock or prairie. But their ascent was generally -perpendicular, falling in and about their own basins or apertures. - -"These wonderful productions of nature are situated near the center of -a small valley, surrounded by pine-covered hills, through which a -small fork of the Madison flows." - -Here we have a description, as from the pen of some earlier Doane or -Langford, free from exaggeration and true to the facts. No one who has -seen the Upper Geyser Basin will question its general correctness. The -writer then goes on to relate what he has learned from others, but -here exaggeration creeps in and this part of his narrative is less -reliable. It continues: - -"From several trappers who had recently returned from the Yellow -Stone, I received an account of boiling springs that differ from those -seen on Salt River only in magnitude, being on a vastly larger scale; -some of their cones are from twenty to thirty feet high, and forty to -fifty paces in circumference. Those which have ceased to emit boiling, -vapor, etc., of which there were several, are full of shelving -cavities, even some fathoms in extent, which give them, inside, an -appearance of honey-comb. The ground for several acres extent in -vicinity of the springs is evidently hollow, and constantly exhales a -hot steam or vapor of disagreeable odor, and a character entirely to -prevent vegetation. They are situated in the valley at the head of -that river near the lake, which constitutes its source. - -"A short distance from these springs, near the margin of the lake, -there is one quite different from any yet described. It is of a -circular form, several feet in diameter, clear, cold and pure; the -bottom appears visible to the eye, and seems seven or eight feet below -the surface of the earth or water, without meeting any resistance. -What is most singular with respect to this fountain is the fact that -at regular intervals of about two minutes, a body or column of water -bursts up to the height of eight feet, with an explosion as loud as -the report of a musket, and then falls back into it; for a few seconds -the water is roily, but it speedily settles and becomes transparent as -before the effusion. A slight tremulous motion of the water, and a low -rumbling sound from the caverns beneath, precede each explosion. This -spring was believed to be connected with the lake by some subterranean -passage, but the cause of its periodical eruptions or discharges, is -entirely unknown. I have never before heard of a cold spring, whose -waters exhibit the phenomena of periodical explosive propulsion, in -form of a jet. The geysers of Iceland, and the various other European -springs, the waters of which are projected upwards, with violence and -uniformity, as well as those seen on the head waters of the Madison, -are invariably hot." - -The cold water geyser above described, although, apparently a myth, -may not have been so after all. In many places along the west shore of -the Yellowstone Lake there are visible protuberances in the water -surface where boiling springs from beneath force the cold water -upward. It is quite possible that this spring was so connected with -the lake as to keep constantly filled with cold water to a -considerable depth; and that the eruptive energy of the spring was -expended in lifting the superincumbent mass without giving any visible -indication of the thermal action below. - -The whole article forms the most interesting and authentic reference -to the geyser regions published prior to 1870. It proves beyond -question that a knowledge of this region existed among the early -trappers, and confirms our previous deduction that the wide range of -the fur business could not have left it unexplored. - -In a letter addressed by General Bonneville to the Montana Historical -Society,[R] since the creation of the Yellowstone Park, he states -that, at the time of his sojourn in the mountains, in 1831-4, the -geyser regions were known to his men, although he had not personally -seen them. He also remembered having seen the trader Alvarez, referred -to in the above article. - -[R] See Appendix E, "Transactions Montana Historical Society." - -In 1844, a large party of trappers entered the Upper Yellowstone -Valley from the south, passed around the west shore of the Yellowstone -Lake to the outlet, where they had a severe battle with the Blackfeet -Indians, in a broad open tract at that point. The remains of their old -corral were still visible as late as 1870. - -There are numerous other interesting, though less definite, references -to an early knowledge of the Yellowstone; but those we have given show -their general character. The important fact to remember is that this -knowledge was barren of result. For the most part it existed only in -the minds of illiterate men, and perished with them. It never caught -the public ear and did not in the least degree hasten the final -discovery. Historically interesting these early adventures will always -be; as are also the Norse voyages to America; but they are very far -from being the Columbus voyage of discovery. - - - - -CHAPTER VI. - -JAMES BRIDGER. - - -Of the early characters whose names are closely linked with the -history of the Yellowstone, the most distinguished is James Bridger, a -sketch of whose life is given in Appendix A, under "Bridger Lake." -That he had often been in the region of the Yellowstone Park, and was -familiar with its unique features, is now well known. His first -personal knowledge of them is believed to date from 1824, when he is -supposed to have been upon the upper Yellowstone. It is certain that -before 1840 he knew of the existence of the geysers in the Firehole -Valley, although at that time he had probably not seen them himself. -Between 1841 and 1844 Bridger was leader of a grand hunting and -trapping expedition, which for upward of two years, wandered over the -country from the Great Falls of the Missouri to Chihuahua, Mexico. At -some time during this expedition he entered the region of the upper -Yellowstone and saw most of its wonders. His descriptions of the -geysers and other remarkable features of that locality can be traced -back nearly to this period and present an accuracy of detail which -could come only from personal observation. - -Among the records of these descriptions the earliest is that by -Captain J. W. Gunnison, of the Corps of Topographical Engineers, who -was associated with Captain Howard Stansbury, of the same corps, in -the Salt Lake Expedition of 1849-50. The record is found in -Gunnison's History of the Mormons,[S] and dates back to this -expedition. It reads: - -"He [Bridger] gives a picture, most romantic and enticing, of the head -waters of the Yellow Stone. A lake, sixty miles long, cold and -pellucid, lies embosomed among high precipitous mountains. On the west -side is a sloping plain, several miles wide, with clumps of trees and -groves of pine. The ground resounds with the tread of horses. Geysers -spout up seventy feet high, with a terrific, hissing noise, at regular -intervals. Water-falls are sparkling, leaping and thundering down the -precipices, and collect in the pool below. The river issues from this -lake, and for fifteen miles roars through the perpendicular cañon at -the outlet. In this section are the 'Great Springs,' so hot that meat -is readily cooked in them, and as they descend on the successive -terraces, afford at length delightful baths. On the other side is an -acid spring, which gushes out in a river torrent; and below is a cave, -which supplies 'vermillion' for the savages in abundance." - -[S] Page 151, Gunnison's History of the Mormons. See Appendix E. - -In this admirable summary we readily discover the Yellowstone Lake, -the Grand Cañon, the Falls, the geyser basins, the Mammoth Hot -Springs, and Cinnabar Mountain. Prior to 1860, Bridger had related -these accounts to Captain Warren, Captain Raynolds, Doctor Hayden, and -others, and although he seems to have convinced these gentlemen that -there was something in his stories, they still attributed less to fact -than to fancy. - -In his efforts to disseminate a knowledge of this region, Bridger was -as determined as Colter had been before him, and with little better -success. He tried to have his narratives published, but no periodical -would lend itself to his service. The editor of the _Kansas City -Journal_ stated editorially in 1879 that Bridger had told him of these -wonders fully thirty years before. He prepared an article from -Bridger's description, but suppressed it because his friends ridiculed -the whole thing as incredible. He later publicly apologized to -Bridger, who was then living at Westport, Missouri.[T] - -[T] Of interest in this connection is the following extract from a -recent letter to the writer by the present managing editor of the -_Kansas City Journal_: - -"The interview had with Bridger was in the year 1856. He told Col. R. -T. Van Horn, Editor of the _Journal_, which was published at that -time, the story of the Park with the geysers, and at the same time, -drew with a piece of charcoal on a piece of wrapping paper an outline -of the route necessary to be taken by a railroad should it ever cross -the continent, which route is exactly on the line that is now crossed -by the Union Pacific. - -In this conversation, he told the Colonel about the mud springs and -the other wonders of that part of the country, or to use his own -expression, 'it was a place where hell bubbled up.' - -The Colonel was much interested in the matter at the time and took -notes of the account, but did not print it because a man who claimed -to know Bridger, told him that he would be laughed out of town if he -printed 'any of old Jim Bridger's lies.'" - -The persistent incredulity of his countrymen, and their ill-concealed -suspicion of his honesty, to say nothing of his mental soundness, were -long a cloud upon Bridger's life; but, more fortunate than his -prototype, Colter, he lived to see himself triumphantly vindicated. -Whether from disgust at this unmerited treatment, or because of his -love of a good story, Bridger seems finally to have resolved that -distrust of his word, if it must exist, should at least have some -justification. He was in fact noted for "drawing the long bow to an -unparalleled tension," and for never permitting troublesome scruples -of conscience to interfere with the proper embellishment of his yarns. -These were generally based upon fact, and diligent search will -discover in them the "soul of truth" which, according to Herbert -Spencer, always exists "in things erroneous." These anecdotes are -current even yet among the inhabitants of the Yellowstone, and the -tourist who remains long in the Park will not fail to hear them. - -When Bridger found that he could not make his hearers believe in the -existence of a vast mass of volcanic glass, now known to all tourists -as the interesting Obsidian Cliff, he supplied them with another glass -mountain of a truly original sort. Its discovery was the result of one -of his hunting trips and it happened in this wise. - -Coming one day in sight of a magnificent elk, he took careful aim at -the unsuspecting animal and fired. To his great amazement, the elk not -only was not wounded, but seemed not even to have heard the report of -the rifle. Bridger drew considerably nearer and gave the elk the -benefit of his most deliberate aim; but with the same result as -before. A third and a fourth effort met with a similar fate. Utterly -exasperated, he seized his rifle by the barrel, resolved to use it as -a club since it had failed as a firearm. He rushed madly toward the -elk, but suddenly crashed into an immovable vertical wall which proved -to be a mountain of perfectly transparent glass, on the farther side -of which, still in peaceful security, the elk was quietly grazing. -Stranger still, the mountain was not only of pure glass, but was a -perfect telescopic lens, and, whereas, the elk seemed but a few -hundred yards off, it was in reality twenty-five miles away! - -Another of Bridger's discoveries was an ice-cold spring near the -summit of a lofty mountain, the water from which flowed down over a -long smooth slope, where it acquired such a velocity that it was -boiling hot when it reached the bottom.[U] - -[U] This story, which is taken from the report of Captain W. F. -Raynolds, was one of Bridger's favorites, and it is even said that he -did not regard it as pleasantry at all, but as plain matter of fact. -Mr. Langford, who often heard him relate it, says that he generally -described the stream as flowing over the smooth surface of a rock, and -reasoned that, as two sticks rubbed together produce heat by friction, -so the water rubbing over the rock became hot. In proof, he cited an -instance where the water was hot only in close proximity to the rock -and not at the surface. Mr. Langford found a partial confirmation of -the fact, but not of the theory, in fording the Firehole River in -1870. He passed over the smooth deposit of an active hot spring in the -bed of the stream, and found that the stream bottom and the water in -contact with it were hot. - -An account, in which the "soul of truth" is not so readily apparent, -is that of a mining prospector of this region, who, in later times, -met a unique and horrible fate. He had for days been traveling with a -party toward a prodigious diamond set in the top of a mountain, where, -even at noonday, it shone with a luster surpassing the sun. He arrived -at length on the top of the mountain only to see the diamond on -another summit apparently as far away as ever. Disheartened and weary, -he thought to save the labor of descent by taking advantage of an -extremely smooth face of the mountain, and accordingly sat down upon -his shovel, as upon a toboggan, and let slide. There was a vacant -place around the camp-fire that evening, and next day the rest of the -party, passing along the base of the mountain, found an infusible clay -pipe and the molten remains of a shovel. Warned by the fate of their -comrade, the superstitious survivors forbore any further search for -the diamond. - -To those who have visited the west shore of the Yellowstone Lake, and -know how simple a matter it is to catch the lake trout and cook them -in the boiling pools without taking them from the line, the ground -work of the following description will be obvious enough. Somewhere -along the shore an immense boiling spring discharges its overflow -directly into the lake. The specific gravity of the water is less than -that of the lake, owing probably to the expansive action of heat, and -it floats in a stratum three or four feet thick upon the cold water -underneath. When Bridger was in need of fish it was to this place that -he went. Through the hot upper stratum he let fall his bait to the -subjacent habitable zone, and having hooked his victim, cooked him _on -the way out_! - -In like manner the visitor to the region of petrifactions on Specimen -Ridge in the north-east corner of the Park, and to various points in -the hot springs districts, will have no difficulty in discovering the -base material out of which Bridger contrived the following picturesque -yarn. According to his account there exists in the Park country a -mountain which was once cursed by a great medicine man of the Crow -nation. Every thing upon the mountain at the time of this dire event -became instantly petrified and has remained so ever since. All forms -of life are standing about in stone where they were suddenly caught by -the petrifying influences, even as the inhabitants of ancient Pompeii -were surprised by the ashes of Vesuvius. Sage brush, grass, prairie -fowl, antelope, elk, and bears may there be seen as perfect as in -actual life. Even flowers are blooming in colors of crystal, and birds -soar with wings spread in motionless flight, while the air floats with -music and perfumes siliceous, and the sun and the moon shine with -petrified light! - -In this way Bridger avenged himself for the spirit of distrust so -often shown for what he had related. The time presently came, however, -when the public learned, not only how large a measure of truth there -was in his stories, but also how ingenious a tale he could weave from -very inadequate material. - - - - -CHAPTER VII. - -RAYNOLDS' EXPEDITION. - - -On the 13th of April, 1859, Captain W. F. Raynolds, of the Corps of -Topographical Engineers, U. S. A., was ordered to explore "the region -of country through which flow the principal tributaries of the -Yellowstone River, and the mountains in which they, and the Gallatin -and Madison Forks of the Missouri, have their source." This was the -first government expedition[V] directed to the precise locality which -is now embraced in the Yellowstone National Park. It is interesting to -us, not for what it accomplished--for it fortunately failed to -penetrate the Upper Yellowstone country--but because it gives an -admirable _resumé_, in the form of a report and a map, of the -geographical knowledge of that country down to the date of actual -discovery. - -[V] Accompanying this expedition as geologist was Dr. F. V. Hayden, -whose name is so intimately connected with the history of the -Yellowstone Park. James Bridger was guide to the party. - -Captain Raynolds was in the field during the two seasons of 1859 and -1860; but it was only in the summer of 1860 that he directed his -efforts toward the country in which we are particularly interested. In -May of that year the expedition left its winter quarters at Deer -Creek, Wyo., and marched to the junction of the Wind River and the -Popo Agie where these streams unite under the name of Bighorn River. -Here the party divided. One division under Captain Raynolds was to -ascend the Wind River to its source and then cross to the head waters -of the Yellowstone. This stream they were to follow down to the Great -Bend, and then cross over to the Three Forks of the Missouri. The -other party, under Lieutenant Maynadier, was to skirt the east and -north flanks of the Absaroka Range and to join the first party at the -Three Forks, if possible, not later than July 1st. - -Captain Raynolds was charged with other instructions than those -mentioned in his order, which must be kept in mind in order properly -to account for the final outcome of the expedition. A total eclipse of -the sun was to occur on July 18th of that year, and its line of -greatest occultation lay north of the British boundary. It was desired -that Captain Raynolds should be present in that locality in time to -observe the eclipse. This condition, rather than impassable mountains -or unmelted snows, was the chief obstacle to a thorough exploration of -the Upper Yellowstone. - -The two parties separated May 24th. Captain Raynolds, according to his -programme, kept up the Wind River valley, and with much difficulty -effected a crossing by way of Union Pass--which he named--to the -western slope of the mountains. He then turned north seeking a passage -to the head waters of the Yellowstone. When nearly opposite Two-Ocean -Pass, he made a strenuous effort to force his way through, spending -two days in the attempt. But it was still June and the snow lay deep -on the mountains. It was a physical impossibility to get through at -that point, and the risk of missing the eclipse forebade efforts -elsewhere. The Captain was deeply disappointed at this result. He -writes: - -"My fondly cherished schemes of this nature were all dissipated by the -prospect before us; ... and I therefore very reluctantly decided to -abandon the plan to which I had so steadily clung." - -It seems not a little singular that so experienced a guide as Bridger -should not have conducted the party up the valley of the Snake River -and thence over the low divide between that stream and the Yellowstone -Lake--a route which was perfectly practicable even as early as June. -But the plan does not appear to have been entertained, and the -expedition passed around the Park region to the west, arriving at the -Three Forks on the 29th of June. - -Lieutenant Maynadier wisely made no attempt to cross the Absaroka -Range, which rose continuously on his left. Had he done so, the deep -snow at that season would have rendered his efforts futile. He kept -close to the flank of the mountains until he reached the valley of the -Yellowstone north of the Park, and then hastened to join his -commanding officer at the appointed rendezvous. He reached the Three -Forks on the 3d day of July. - -The expedition had now completely encircled the region of the Upper -Yellowstone. At one point Captain Raynolds had stood where his eye -could range over all that country which has since become so famous; -but this was the limit of his endeavor. The Yellowstone wonderland was -spared the misfortune of being discovered at so early a day--a fact -quite as fortunate as any in its history. - -It will be interesting now to survey this region as known at the time -of the Raynolds Expedition. Nothing of importance occurred to increase -public knowledge of it until 1870, and Captain Raynolds'[W] Report is -therefore the latest authentic utterance concerning it prior to the -date of actual discovery. In this report Captain Raynolds says: - -"Beyond these [the mountains south-east of the Park], is the valley of -the Upper Yellowstone, which is as yet a _terra incognita_. My -expedition passed entirely around, but could not penetrate it.... -Although it was June, the immense body of snow baffled all our -exertions, and we were compelled to content ourselves with listening -to marvelous tales of burning plains, immense lakes, and boiling -springs, without being able to verify these wonders. I know of but two -men who claim to have ever visited this part of the Yellowstone -Valley--James Bridger and Robert Meldrum. The narratives of both these -men are very remarkable, and Bridger, in one of his recitals, -described an immense boiling spring, that is a perfect counterpart of -the geysers of Iceland. As he is uneducated, and had probably never -heard of the existence of such natural wonders elsewhere, I have -little doubt that he spoke of that which he had actually seen.... -Bridger also insisted that immediately west[X] of the point at which -we made our final effort to penetrate this singular valley, there is a -stream of considerable size, which divides and flows down either side -of the water-shed, thus discharging its waters into both the Atlantic -and Pacific Oceans." - -[W] See Bibliography. Appendix E, "Explorations of the Yellowstone," -etc. - -[X] Actually north-east. - -The Captain concludes this particular part of his report as follows: - -"I can not doubt, therefore, that at no very distant day, the -mysteries of this region will be fully revealed; and, although small -in extent, I regard the valley of the Upper Yellowstone as the most -interesting unexplored district in our widely expanded country." - -Lieutenant Maynadier also contributes a few interesting observations -upon this region. The vast importance of that extensive mass of -mountains, as a reservoir of waters for the country round about, -impressed him deeply. He says, somewhat ostentatiously: - -"As my fancy warmed with the wealth of desolation before me, I found -something to admire in the calm self-denial with which this region, -content with barren magnificence, gives up its water and soil to more -favored countries." - -Of the Yellowstone River, he was told that it had its source "in a -lake in the impenetrable fastnesses of the Rocky Mountains;" and that -for some distance below the lake it flowed through a narrow gorge, up -which "no one has ever been able to travel." - -[Illustration: - - MAP - OF THE - SOURCES of the YELLOWSTONE - AS KNOWN BETWEEN 1860 AND 1870 - FROM THE MAP - _OF_ - RAYNOLDS EXPEDITION OF 1860 - -_Opp. page 62._] - -But it is the map prepared by Captain Raynolds that tells a more -interesting story even than his written report. It reveals at once to -the eye what was known as well as what was unknown of the Upper -Yellowstone. Extending in a south-easterly and north-westerly -direction, is a large elliptical space, within which geographical -features are represented by dotted lines, indicating that they are put -in by hearsay only. In the midst of a surrounding country, which is -already mapped with great accuracy, there is a region wholly unknown -to the geographer. A cordon of mountains encircles it, and shows the -limit of official effort to gain a correct knowledge of it. Within -this enchanted inclosure lies the region approximately defined by the -44th and 45th parallels of latitude and the 110th and 111th meridians -of longitude, which now constitutes the Yellowstone National Park. -There one may catch glimpses, through the uncertain haze of tradition, -of the geysers, hot springs, Lake, Falls, Grand Cañon, Mammoth Hot -Springs, and Two-Ocean Pass. This was the net result of fifty years' -desultory wandering in and about and over this "mystic" region. - -Raynolds' report, it must be remembered, was the first official -recognition in any form of the probable existence of extensive -volcanic phenomena in the region of the Upper Yellowstone. Had it been -published immediately after the expedition, and had not public -attention been totally engrossed with other matters of overshadowing -importance, this region must have become fully known in the early -Sixties. But within a month after the return of Captain Raynolds to -civilization there had taken place the national election which was the -signal for attempted armed disruption of the Union. A year later found -every officer of the Army called to new fields of duty. Western -exploration entirely ceased until 1865, and was not vigorously resumed -for some years thereafter. Captain Raynolds' report did not appear -until 1868, although his map was published several years earlier in -order to meet a demand for it by the new settlers in western Montana, -Nothing transpired in the meantime to make the general public familiar -with this region, and the picture here given is therefore -substantially correct down to the date of the celebrated Washburn -expedition. - - - - -CHAPTER VIII. - -GOLD IN MONTANA. - - -Perhaps the most fascinating pages of American history are those which -recount the annals of the discoveries of gold and silver. No one can -appreciate the magnitude of those various movements by a simple -perusal of statistics of the mineral wealth which they disclosed. He -must pass through the mining belts and note how almost every rod of -ground, over vast tracts of country, is filled with prospect holes -that attest the miner's former presence. If the trapper carried the -tools of his trade to haunts remote and inaccessible, the miner, with -his pick and shovel, certainly outdid him. One can readily understand -that, as soon as such a movement should be directed toward the region -of the Upper Yellowstone, the wonders of that region would speedily be -revealed. - -The presence of gold in the mountains of Montana was first noticed as -far back as 1852. Later, in 1858, the Stuart brothers, James and -Granville, founders of Montana, discovered gold in the Deer Lodge -Valley; but they were destitute of equipments, and so constantly -exposed to the hostility of the Blackfeet, that they went to Fort -Bridger in the south-west corner of Wyoming, and did not return until -late in 1860. - -It was in 1860 and 1861 that the rich mines on the Salmon and Boisé -rivers were discovered. In 1862 the tide of discovery swept across -the mountains into Montana. The rich mines on Pioneer Creek, the Big -Prickly Pear, the Big Hole River, North Boulder Creek, and at Bannock -and other points, became known. Although there were scarcely a -thousand people in Montana in the winter of 1862-3, the news of the -great discoveries marshaled a host of immigrants ready to enter the -territory in the following spring. These were largely re-enforced by -adventurers from both the northern and southern states, who, with -little credit to their courage or patriotism, sought in these remote -regions exemption from the tributes and levies of war. The immigrants -were welcomed in the spring of 1863 by the news of the discovery of -Alder Gulch, the richest of all gold placers. The work of prospecting, -already being pushed with vigor, was stimulated to an extraordinary -degree by this magnificent discovery. Prospecting parties scoured the -country in all directions, often with loss of life through the -Indians, but rarely, after the first two or three years, with any -substantial success. Some of these expeditions have a particular -connection with our narrative because they passed across portions of -what is now the Yellowstone Park. - -The most important of them occurred in August and September, 1863. It -was led by Walter W. DeLacy, an engineer and surveyor of some -distinction in the early history of Montana. The party at one time -numbered forty-two men, although this number did not continue constant -throughout the expedition. Its sole object was to "prospect" the -country. Evidently nothing in the line of topographical reconnaissance -was thought of, for Captain DeLacy says "there was not a telescope, -and hardly a watch, in the whole party." - -The expedition left Virginia City, August 3d; passed south into Idaho -until it struck the Snake River, and then ascended that stream to the -region about Jackson Lake. Near the mouth of Buffalo Fork a halt was -made, a corral was built to hold the stock, and a miners' meeting held -at which rules were adopted to govern the miners in the contemplated -examination of the country. The party then broke up into small groups -and set out in different directions so as to cover as much ground as -possible. The last four days of August were spent in this search, but -with failure in every direction. This discouragement led to the -abandonment of the expedition. Fifteen men set out for home by the way -they had come, while DeLacy and twenty-seven men resolved to reach the -Madison River and the settlements by going north. A day later this -party entered the territory which is now the Yellowstone Park. - -The route lay up the Snake River to its junction with Lewis River -where the hot springs of that locality were discovered. Here another -separation occurred. About half the party went back down the river to -re-examine a locality where they thought they had found some fair -prospects. They soon returned, however, unsuccessful. The main party -under DeLacy ascended the hills to the west of the river to seek a -more practicable route. They soon reached the summit of the plateau -where they discovered what are now Hering and Beula lakes, and noted -their divergent drainage. Thence they passed north over Pitchstone -Plateau until they struck the valley of Moose Creek. They descended -this stream for a few miles and came to a large lake, which they -supposed to be tributary to either the Madison or the Yellowstone -Rivers. To their great surprise they found, upon rounding its southern -point, that it drained _south_ into the Snake. This is what is now -called Shoshone Lake. - -From the outlet of the lake, DeLacy sent a man down stream to examine -the river. This reconnaissance resulted in the discovery of Lewis Lake -and the hot springs basin there. When DeLacy resumed his route, he -followed along the east shore of the lake to its northern extremity, -and then ascended the beautiful open valley of DeLacy Creek. He -crossed the Continental Divide at the head of the valley, and camped -on the evening of September 8th some miles beyond the Divide toward -the Firehole River. The next morning, September 9, 1863, he came upon -the considerable stream of hot water which flows down a mountain -ravine into the Lower Geyser Basin close by the Great Fountain Geyser. -The reader will learn with some amazement that our party thought -little enough of this wonderful locality to pass directly through it -without halt or perceptible delay. Before the camping hour of the -afternoon had arrived, they were many miles away at the junction of -the Gibbon and Firehole rivers. - -The other section of the party, which had gone down the Snake from its -junction with Lewis River, soon returned, followed up the river to -Lewis and Shoshone lakes, passed around the western end of the latter -lake discovering its extensive geyser basin, and thence crossed over -to the Madison. This stream they descended through the geyser basins, -and followed the main party to the settlements. - -DeLacy might have passed into history as the real discoverer of the -Yellowstone wonderland, but for the fact that he failed to appreciate -the true importance of what he saw. In that, however, he was no -exception to the general rule of immigrants. The search for gold with -them so far overshadowed all other matters, that it would have -required something more than geysers to divert them, even momentarily, -from its prosecution. Although DeLacy kept a daily journal of his -expedition, and noted therein the various items of interest along his -route, he did not publish it until 1876, long after public interest -had been strongly attracted to the geyser regions. He did, however, -publish a map of the country through which he passed, and on this map -he correctly noted the drainage of Shoshone Lake--something which the -Folsom, Washburn, and Hayden (1871), expeditions all failed to do. He -also noted the various hot springs localities through which the party -passed. In a letter published in Raymond's "Mineral Resources of the -States and Territories West of the Rocky Mountains," in 1869, before -the date of the Washburn Expedition, he called attention to the -existence of geysers at the head of Shoshone Lake and on the Madison -River. - -DeLacy's account, as finally published, is an interesting early view -of this region, and is remarkable for its general correctness. That he -failed to publish his discoveries must be regarded as fortunate so far -as the Park is concerned, for the time had not yet come when it was -desirable that the real character of this country should be made -known. - -From 1863 to 1869 there were many other prospecting parties in the -region of the Upper Yellowstone. In 1863 one of these parties, -numbering thirty or forty men, ascended the Yellowstone and the East -Fork to the mouth of Soda Butte Creek, and thence crossed an -intervening ridge to the next northern tributary of the East Fork. -Here all their horses were stolen by Indians. There were left only one -or two mules on which was packed all the baggage they could carry, the -rest being concealed in a cache. The party then separated into two -portions and prospected the country for several days in the vicinity -of Clark's Fork. They finally returned, emptied the cache, and -descended to the Yellowstone where they found fair prospects near the -present north boundary of the Park. The expedition has no permanent -interest for this narrative except that it left the two geographical -names, "Cache Creek" and "Bear Gulch." - -In 1864, a party of seventy-three men under James Stuart passed from -Deer Lodge, Montana, to the Yellowstone Valley, and thence around the -east base of the Absaroka Range into the valley of the Stinkingwater. -The object of this expedition was to punish the Indians for outrages -of the previous year, and also to prospect the country for gold. At -the Stinkingwater, Stuart was compelled to return home. The party then -separated into groups that gradually worked their way back to the -Montana settlements. One of these small parties went as far south as -the Sweetwater River, then crossed to the Green and Snake Rivers, and -re-crossed the Continental Divide at Two-Ocean Pass. They descended -the Yellowstone, past the Lake and Grand Cañon, and beyond the -present limits of the Park. Norris found remnants of their camp -debris seventeen years afterward. - -In 1866, a party under one George Huston left Virginia City, Montana, -and ascended the Madison River to the geyser basins. Thence they -crossed to the Yellowstone at Mud Geyser, ascended the river to the -lake, passed completely around the latter, discovering Hart Lake on -their way, and then descended the Yellowstone by the Falls and Cañon, -to Emigrant Gulch. Here they were interviewed by a newspaper reporter, -and an account of their travels was published in the _Omaha Herald_. -They had seen about all there was to be seen in the whole region. - -At least two parties traversed the Park country in 1867. One of these -gave names to Crevice, Hell-roaring and Slough Creeks. An account of -the wanderings of the other party appeared in the _Montana Post_ of -that year. - -Many other parties and individuals passed through this region during -the Montana mining craze. Their accounts appeared now and then in the -local papers, and were reprinted throughout the country. By 1869, -probably very few of the reading public had not heard rumors of a -strange volcanic region in the Far West. In Montana, particularly, -repeated confirmation of the old trappers' tales was gradually -arousing a deep interest, and the time was fast approaching when -explorations for the specific purpose of verifying these rumors were -to begin. - - - - -CHAPTER IX. - -DISCOVERY. - - -The discovery of the Yellowstone Wonderland--by which is here meant -its full and final disclosure to the world--was the work of three -parties who visited and explored it in the years 1869, 1870, and 1871, -respectively. The first of these expeditions was purely a private -enterprise. It consisted of three men, and was the first party to -enter this country with the express purpose of verifying or refuting -the floating rumors concerning it. The second expedition was of a -mixed character, having semi-official sanction, but being organized -and recruited by private individuals. This was the famous "Yellowstone -Expedition of 1870"--the great starting point in the post-traditional -history of the Park. The third expedition was strictly official, under -the military and scientific departments of the government. It was a -direct result of the explorations of 1870, and was intended to satisfy -the public demand for accurate and official information concerning -this new region of wonders. It was the final and necessary step in -order that the government might act intelligently and promptly for the -preservation of what was believed to be the most interesting -collection of wonders to be found in the world.[Y] - -[Y] For diagram of routes, see Historical Chart, p. 11. - - -THE EXPEDITION OF 1869. - -The question of setting definitely at rest the constantly multiplying -rumors of wonderful volcanic phenomena around the sources of the -Yellowstone, began to be seriously agitated among the people of -Montana as early as 1867. An expedition was planned for that year but -came to nothing. A like result attended a similar effort the following -year. In 1869, the proposition came near materializing, but fell -through at the last moment owing to the failure to obtain a military -escort. There were three members of this proposed expedition, however, -who refused to be frightened off by any dangers which the situation at -that time promised. They had already provided themselves with an -elaborate equipment, and were determined, with escort or without it, -to undertake the trip. The names of these men were David E. Folsom, C. -W. Cook, and William Peterson, the last named being a native of -Denmark. Armed with "repeating rifles, Colt's six-shooters, and -sheath-knives," with a "double-barreled shot gun for small game;" and -equipped with a "good field-glass, pocket compass and thermometer," -and utensils and provisions "for a six weeks' trip," they set out from -Diamond City on the Missouri River, forty miles from Helena, September -6, 1869. - -The route lay up the Missouri to the Three Forks; thence _via_ Bozeman -and Fort Ellis to the Yellowstone River; and thence up the Yellowstone -to its junction with the East Fork inside the present limits of the -Park. From this point they crossed to the east bank and followed up -the river, passing through the many groups of hot springs to be found -east of the Grand Cañon. On September 21st, they arrived at the Falls -of the Yellowstone, where they remained an entire day. Some distance -above the rapids they re-crossed to the west shore and then ascended -the river past Sulphur Mountain and Mud Volcano to Yellowstone Lake. -They then went to the extreme west shore of the lake and spent some -time examining the surpassingly beautiful springs at that point. -Thence they crossed the mountains to Shoshone Lake, which they took to -be the head of the Madison, and from that point struck out to the -north-west over a toilsome country until they reached the Lower Geyser -Basin near Nez Percé Creek. Here they saw the Fountain Geyser in -action and the many other phenomena in that locality. They ascended -the Firehole River to Excelsior Geyser and Prismatic Lake, and then -turned down the river on their way home. They were absent on the -expedition thirty-six days. - -It is said that these explorers were so astonished at the marvels they -had seen that "they were, on their return, unwilling to risk their -reputations for veracity by a full recital of them to a small company -whom their friends had assembled to hear the account of their -explorations." But Mr. Folsom later prepared a most entertaining -narrative of his journey which was published in the _Western Monthly_, -of Chicago, in July, 1871.[Z] This article deserves a high rank in the -literature of the Park. It is free from exaggeration and contains -some descriptions unsurpassed by any subsequent writer. The article, -and personal interviews with the author and his companions, had a -strong influence in leading to the important expedition next to be -described. - -[Z] It is only through the undiminished loyalty of Mr. N. P. Langford -to every thing pertaining to the welfare of the Yellowstone National -Park that this article has been saved from oblivion. The office of the -_Western Monthly_ was destroyed by the great Chicago fire of 1871, and -all the files of the magazine were lost. Mr. Folsom had lost or given -away all copies in his possession. So far as is known there is but one -remaining copy of this issue and that is owned by Mr. Langford. In -1894, Mr. Langford caused the article to be reprinted in handsome -pamphlet form, with an interesting preface by himself, and it will now -receive the recognition which it justly deserves. - - -THE EXPEDITION OF 1870. - -The Yellowstone Expedition of 1870, more commonly known as the -Washburn-Doane Expedition, was the culmination of the project of -discovery to which frequent reference has already been made. At this -time the subject was exciting a profound interest throughout Montana, -and the leading citizens of the territory were active in organizing a -grand expedition. General Sheridan, who passed through Helena just -prior to his departure for the scene of the Franco-German War, spent -some time in arranging for a military escort to accompany the party. -The project did not assume definite shape until about the middle of -August, and when the time for departure arrived, Indian alarms caused -a majority of the party to repent their decision to join it. Finally, -their were only nine persons who were willing to brave all dangers for -the success of the undertaking. These nine were: - -General Henry D. Washburn, Surveyor-General of Montana, chief of the -expedition, and author of a series of valuable "notes" describing -it.[AA] - -[AA] See Appendix E. - -Hon. Nathaniel P. Langford, who published a series of articles in -_Scribner's Magazine_,[AB] which gave general publicity to the news of -discovery. He became first Superintendent of the Park. - -[AB] See Appendix E. - -Hon. Cornelius Hedges, who first proposed setting apart this region as -a National Park. - -Hon. Truman C. Everts, ex-U. S. Assessor for Montana, whose experience -upon the expedition forms the most painful and thrilling chapter in -the annals of the Yellowstone. - -Hon. Samuel T. Hauser, President of the First National Bank of Helena, -and later Governor of Montana. - -Walter Trumbull, son of the late Senator Trumbull. He published an -account of the expedition in the _Overland Monthly_ for June, -1871.[AC] - -[AC] See Appendix E. - -Other civilian members of the expedition were Benjamin Stickney, Jr., -Warren C. Gillette, and Jacob Smith. - -The personnel of this party is sufficient evidence of the wide-spread -interest which was being taken at the time in the region of the Upper -Yellowstone. - -The party proceeded from Helena to Fort Ellis, one hundred and -twenty-five miles, where they were to receive a military escort -promised by General Hancock, at that time commanding the department in -which Fort Ellis was located. The post order detailing this escort is -dated August 21, 1870, and directs Lieutenant Gustavus C. Doane, -Second Cavalry, with one sergeant and four privates, "to escort the -Surveyor-General of Montana to the falls and lakes of the Yellowstone -and return." There is a significant absence in this order of any -reference to geysers or hot springs; and the discreet post commander -evidently did not intend to commit himself to a recognition of their -existence on the strength of such knowledge as was then available. His -incredulity was indeed largely shared by the members of the party -themselves. Mr. Hedges subsequently said: - -"I think a more confirmed set of skeptics never went out into the -wilderness than those who composed our party, and never was a party -more completely surprised and captivated with the wonders of nature." - -Lieutenant Doane, than whom no member of the expedition holds a more -honorable place in its history, has left on record a similar -confession. - -The party as finally organized, including two packers and two colored -cooks, numbered nineteen individuals. Thirty-five horses and mules, -thoroughly equipped for a month's absence, completed the "outfit," and -made altogether quite an imposing cavalcade. - -August 22, 1870, the expedition left Fort Ellis, crossed to the -Yellowstone, and ascended that stream through the First and Second -Cañons, past the "Devil's Slide" and Cinnabar Mountain, to the present -north boundary line of the Park at the mouth of the Gardiner River. At -this point they were within five miles of the celebrated Mammoth Hot -Springs which are now the first attraction to meet the tourist's eye -on entering the Park. But the party kept close to the Yellowstone, -instead of taking the modern route up the Gardiner, and missed this -wonder altogether. - -It was August 26th when the expedition entered the present territory -of the Park. Lieutenant Doane and Mr. Everts, with one soldier and two -hunters picked up on the way, rode in advance along the brink of the -Third Cañon and across the high plateau between the Gardiner and Tower -Creek, camping at nightfall upon the latter stream. In the broad open -valley near the junction of the Yellowstone and East Fork, a small -tepid sulphur spring gave them the first evidence of their approach to -the regions of volcanic activity. - -Next day, the remainder of the party arrived. Two days were spent in -examining the beautiful Tower Falls, and--to our tyros in geyser -exploration--the wonderful hot spring formations to be seen at that -point. Here they also had for the first time glimpses of the Grand -Cañon of the Yellowstone. - -The party left Tower Creek on the 29th of August, and followed up the -river over the east flank of Mount Washburn. As their progress lifted -them rapidly above the surrounding country, a marvelously beautiful -landscape unfolded itself to their view. Presently an interesting -incident occurred, which shall stand here in Lieutenant Doane's own -language: - -"Through the mountain gap formed by the cañon, and on the interior -slopes some twenty [evidently a misprint] miles distant, an object now -appeared which drew a simultaneous expression of wonder from every one -of the party. A column of steam, rising from the dense woods to the -height of several hundred feet, became distinctly visible. We had all -heard fabulous stories of this region, and were somewhat skeptical of -appearances. At first it was pronounced a fire in the woods, but -presently some one noticed that the vapor rose in regular puffs, as -if expelled with great force. Then conviction was forced upon us. It -was indeed a great column of steam, puffing away on the lofty mountain -side, escaping with a roaring sound audible at a long distance, even -through the heavy forest. A hearty cheer rang out at this discovery, -and we pressed onward with renewed enthusiasm." - -The party then ascended the lofty mountain to their right, now known -as Mt. Washburn, and from its summit looked around upon the vast -panorama which is now included in the Yellowstone National Park. Had -old James Bridger been present at that moment, he would have received -ample vindication for long-standing injustice at the hands of his -incredulous countrymen. _There_ were the Cañon and Falls and Lake of -the Yellowstone, with evidence enough of boiling springs and geysers! -The enthusiasm of the party was unbounded, and Lieutenant Doane -exultingly declares that they were "more than satisfied with the -opening up of the campaign." - -The pack-train continued its course along the side of the mountain, -and went into camp after a march of only twelve miles. That evening, -Messrs. Washburn, Doane, and Hedges went on ahead of the main party, -discovering the extensive mud springs at the southern base of the -mountain, and finally reached the verge of a cliff beyond which yawned -the stupendous cañon of the Yellowstone. It was the first real view -from near by, but darkness prevented further examination. - -The next day saw the arrival of the party at the Falls of the -Yellowstone, close by the mouth of Cascade Creek, which, with its -Crystal Falls, received that day their present names. The remainder of -this day, August 30th, and the next, were spent in exploring the cañon -and measuring the heights of the falls. Messrs. Hauser and Stickney -descended the sides of the cañon to the brink of the river about two -miles below the falls; and Lieutenant Doane and Private McConnell -accomplished the same difficult feat further down. It needs not to be -said that the members of the party were profoundly impressed with the -incomparable scenery of the Grand Cañon, although their descriptions -of it are, perhaps, least satisfactory of any they have left us. - -From the Cañon the party ascended the now placid river amid -ever-changing wonders. They passed Sulphur Mountain and the uncanny -region around the Mud Volcano and Mud Geyser, then crossed to the east -shore of the river, and finally went into camp, September 3d, on the -shore of the Yellowstone Lake. Here our explorers were again in -ecstacies, and not without cause; for, seen under favoring conditions, -this "watery solitude" is one of the most beautiful objects in nature. - -After a day spent in this camp, the expedition continued by slow -stages up the east shore of the lake. Messrs. Doane and Langford -scaled the lofty Absaroka Range just east of the lake, being the first -white men known to have accomplished this feat, and their names now -designate two of its noblest summits. - -September 7th, the party forded the Upper Yellowstone and traversed -the almost impassable labyrinths of fallen timber between the several -projecting arms. on the south of the lake. It was on this portion of -the route, September 9th, that Mr. Everts became separated from his -party, lost his horse with all his accoutrements, and commenced those -"thirty-seven days of peril," which so nearly cost him his life. This -unfortunate affair cast a deep gloom over the little party and -seriously interfered with the progress of the expedition. A week was -spent in searching for the lost companion, without other result than -the discovery of the hot springs basins at Hart Lake and on the west -shore of the Yellowstone Lake. - -At length it was concluded that Mr. Everts had either been killed or -had wandered back home; and it was resolved to wait no longer. The -party were surfeited with sight-seeing, and believed that they had now -covered the whole ground. They therefore determined to strike across -the mountains to the Madison and follow that stream to the -settlements. They set out on the morning of September 17th, over -rugged hills and through fallen timber, crossing the Continental -Divide twice, and camping that night in an open glade on a small -branch of the Firehole. While passing the second time over the Divide, -they caught a glimpse of Shoshone Lake and erroneously thought it to -be the head of the Firehole River. - -At 9 A. M., September 18th, the march was resumed. The party soon -reached the Firehole just above Kepler Cascade and thence followed -down the course of the stream. Tourists who have visited the Park -since 1891, when the new road from the Upper Basin to the Lake was -opened, will remember that immediately after leaving "Old Faithful" -they plunge into an unbroken pine forest and see no other evidences -of geyser action until they reach the Lake. The situation of our -homeward-bound explorers can thus be easily understood. They were -traveling toward the geysers. The dense forest concealed every thing -beyond the radius of a few hundred feet. In unsuspecting mood, bent -only on getting home to tell their wonderful story, and perhaps to -find their missing companion, they moved down the river, crossing it -considerably below the site of the present bridge above the Upper -Basin, and suddenly emerged from the timber into an open treeless -valley. It was nearly noon of a clear, cool September day. Directly in -front of them, scarcely two hundred yards away, a vertical column of -water and steam was shooting upward a hundred and fifty feet into the -air. The bright sunlight turned the clear water into a mass of -glittering crystals, and a gentle breeze wafted the vast white curtain -of steam far to the right across the valley. Thus it was that "Old -Faithful," as if forewarned of the approach of her distinguished -visitors, gave them her most graceful salutation; and thus she bowed -out the era of tradition and fable, and ushered the civilized world -into the untrodden empire of the Fire King. Little wonder that our -astonished explorers "spurred their jaded horses," and "gathered -around the wonderful phenomenon." - -The party spent only the remainder of the day and the following -morning in the Upper Basin; but in that time saw seven of the -principal geysers in action, and gave them their present names.[AD] -They then passed down the river through the Middle and Lower Basins, -but stopped to examine only such curiosities as were close by the -river. Their rations were nearly gone, their lost companion was not -found, and the desire to tell what they had already seen was greater -than the desire to see more. They therefore made haste for home, and -on the evening of September 19th encamped where the Firehole and -Gibbon Rivers unite to form the Madison. From this point the party -journeyed steadily homeward, conversing on the expedition of the past -month, and planning how their great discovery might best be brought to -the attention of the world. - -[AD] See list of geysers, Appendix A. - -The news of this expedition created intense and wide-spread interest -throughout the country. Messrs. Washburn, Hedges, Trumbull, and -others, prepared numerous descriptive articles for the local Montana -papers, many of them among the best that have ever been written upon -the Park, and these were reproduced in every important paper in the -land. The _Helena Herald_, of October 27, 1870, only a month after the -return of the party, refers to the extraordinary interest aroused by -these articles, so unlike the sixty years' indifference which had -marked the history of this region. - -These preliminary and hasty reports were followed by more studied -efforts. Lieutenant Doane's masterly report was completed December 15, -1870. Besides its intrinsic merit, it has the distinction of being the -first official report upon the Upper Yellowstone country. It passed -through the customary military channels and was finally sent to -Congress, February 24, 1871. Prof. S. F. Baird, of the Smithsonian -Institution, also presented the information gathered by Lieutenant -Doane to the Philosophical Society of Washington during the winter. - -Messrs. Langford and Trumbull prepared entertaining magazine articles, -which, however, could not be gotten to press until the following May -and June. But Mr. Langford in the meantime did effective work from the -lecture stand. In Helena, Minneapolis, New York and Washington, he -told the story of what he had seen. In Washington, the Hon. James G. -Blaine, Speaker of the House, presided at the lecture, and in the -audience was Dr. F. V. Hayden, who was destined to play a prominent -part in the history of the Yellowstone Park. - -From whatever point of view considered, this expedition is one of the -most remarkable in our annals. From Helena to the farthest point -reached by the party, the route passed over was nearly three hundred -miles long. The region of the Upper Yellowstone is perhaps the most -difficult of access in the entire country. Even to-day, it is an -almost certain place in which to get lost, if one is not thoroughly -familiar with wilderness travel and happens to stray away from the -beaten path. In 1870, moreover, the danger from hostile Indians was a -constant and formidable menace, and the party was more than once -reminded of it during the progress of the expedition. But in spite of -all these difficulties, the success of the enterprise was so complete, -its incidents were so full of romance, and its results were so -far-reaching and important, that it well deserves the wide attention -it has received. - - -THE JOINT GOVERNMENT EXPEDITION OF 1871. - -The direct result of the expedition of 1870 was to cause the U. S. -Geological Survey to change its programme for the season of 1871, so -as to give attention to the new wonderland; and also to cause the -military authorities to send a well-appointed engineer party to the -same locality. These two expeditions, one under Dr. Hayden and the -other under Captains Barlow and Heap, of the Engineer Corps of the -Army, moved for the most part together, camping near each other, and -accompanied by the same military escort. Particular attention will -here be given only to such features of these expeditions as pertain to -new discoveries. - -At the very outset of their journey, they branched off from the -Washburn route at the mouth of the Gardiner River, and by ascending -this stream, discovered the wonderful formations now known as the -Mammoth Hot Springs. From this point, the parties traveled eastward to -Tower Creek; thence over Mt. Washburn, and past the Cañon and Falls, -to Sulphur Mountain, Mud Geyser, and the Lake; thence by a new route -across the mountains to the Lower Geyser Basin; thence to the Upper -Basin; thence east, across the mountains again, past Shoshone Lake to -Yellowstone Lake; thence around the head of this body of water to its -outlet; thence across the country, by separate routes, to the mouth of -Soda Butte Creek; and thence down the East Fork to Baronett's Bridge -(which had been built only a few months before), and out of the Park -by way of Mammoth Hot Springs. - -The original work done by these parties, besides the discovery of the -springs on the Gardiner, was the opening of a route between the -Yellowstone River and the Lower Geyser Basin; the exploration of the -Lower Basin; the mapping of the shore line of Yellowstone Lake, by Dr. -Hayden; the mapping of the head waters of the Snake River, by Captain -Barlow; and some hasty explorations in the valley of the East Fork of -the Yellowstone, now called Lamar River. - -The chief value of these explorations, however, was not in the line of -original discovery, but in the large collection of accurate data -concerning the entire region. The photographs were of immense value. -Description might exaggerate, but the camera told the truth; and in -this case the truth was more remarkable than exaggeration. -Unfortunately for Captain Barlow's collection, the great Chicago fire -almost entirely destroyed it. The same cause delayed the appearance of -his report until six weeks after the Park Bill was passed. An -interesting and complete summary, however, appeared as a supplement in -the _Chicago Journal_ for January 13, 1872. The report and collection -of photographs and specimens by Dr. Hayden were therefore the -principal results of this season's work, and they played a decisive -part in the events of the winter of 1871-2. - -With the close of the expeditions of 1871, the discovery of the -Yellowstone wonderland was made complete. It remained to see what -Congress would do with so unique and valuable a possession. - - - - -CHAPTER X. - -THE NATIONAL PARK IDEA--ITS ORIGIN AND REALIZATION. - - -The first steamboat to ascend the Missouri River as far as to the -mouth of the Yellowstone arrived at that point on the 26th of June, -1832. By a happy coincidence it bore the name _Yellowstone_. We are -indebted for the conception of the National Park idea to a passenger -upon this boat who was destined to become one of the most interesting -characters America has produced. Every one bears in memory those -pictures of Indian life which thrilled their youthful imagination with -visions of camping-grounds, council fires, exciting buffalo hunts, and -the wild and picturesque costumes of the red men. Very few, however, -realize how largely all that is best in these pictures has flowed from -a single source. The name of George Catlin is by no means familiar -except to the specialist. His work reaches the public eye through so -many different channels, and so often without any acknowledgment of -its origin, that the origin itself is very generally lost to view. - -To no other individual does the Indian race owe so much for the -perpetuity in history and art of its life and customs. From an early -age he displayed an enthusiasm for every thing pertaining to the -aboriginal races which can be adequately described only by the word -worship. He abandoned the profession for which he had been educated, -and enlisted his whole energy in the service of brush and pencil, -apparently for the single purpose of indulging this passion of his -life. He once wrote: - -"Unaided and unadvised, I resolved to use my art and so much of the -labors of my future life as might be required in rescuing from -oblivion the looks and customs of the vanishing races of native man in -America, to which I plainly saw they were hastening before the -approach and certain progress of civilization."[AE] - -[AE] Manners, Customs, etc., of the North American Indians. See -Appendix E. - -This high purpose Catlin followed throughout the remainder of his life -with unwavering fidelity. He visited almost every Indian tribe in -North America, gathering sketches and making descriptive notes. He -also visited South America, and afterward spent many years in Europe -exhibiting his work. The result of his labors was a gallery of more -than six hundred pictures, now happily forever safe under the -protection of the Smithsonian Institution in Washington, wherein he -delineated the portraits of famous chiefs and the scenes and customs -of Indian life. This work he supplemented with the scarcely less -valuable work of his pen, leaving behind him probably the best popular -description of the native races that has ever been written. His work -is a perennial fountain to which students of Indian themes will ever -resort. Valuable as it was considered in his lifetime, each passing -year makes it more valuable still. - -Catlin's enthusiasm for every thing pertaining to Indian life, and the -grief with which he beheld the certain fading away of it all before -the rapid progress of civilization, suggested to him the idea which -was to find partial fulfillment at the time to which our narrative -has now been carried. In order to preserve, at least on a small scale, -the native fauna of America, and a remnant of the Indian races, he -proposed that the government should set apart, in some suitable -locality of the West, a large tract of land, to be preserved forever -as a "_Nation's Park_, containing man and beast, in all the wildness -and freshness of their nature's beauty." With his natural enthusiasm -and vigor, he unfolded his idea, concluding: - -"I would ask no other monument to my memory, nor any other enrollment -of my name among the famous dead, than the reputation of having been -the founder of such an institution." - -In the report of the late Prof. Joseph Henry to the Board of Regents -of the Smithsonian Institution for 1871, it is stated that Catlin made -a proposition to the government in 1832 "to reserve the country around -these [the Yellowstone] geysers as a public park." While it is more -than probable, considering the date, and the wide acquaintance of Mr. -Catlin with the traders and Indians of the West, that he had heard of -the geyser regions, still there is not sufficient evidence attainable -to justify our acceptance of the above statement. But in every thing -else except the particular locality, and the plan of providing a -reservation for the Indians, Catlin's idea was the same as that -finally adopted by Congress. - -Although the project of creating a vast National Park in the West -originated with George Catlin, it is certain that Congress could never -have been brought to act favorably upon it, except under the influence -of some extraordinary motive. That motive was supplied when the -innumerable unique and marvelous wonders of the Yellowstone were made -known. Their preservation at once became a matter of high public duty, -which could be accomplished only by reserving from settlement the -region around them. - -Since the Park was created and has to such a marked degree received -the approval of the people, numerous claimants have arisen for the -honor of having first suggested the idea. In truth, no special credit -for originality should attach to the matter. It was a natural, an -unavoidable proposition. To those who first saw these wonders, and -were not so absorbed with gold-seeking as to be incapable of -appreciating their importance, it was clear that, within a few years, -they must become objects of universal interest. It was equally clear -that the land around them would soon be taken up by private parties, -and that the beautiful formations would be carried off for mercenary -purposes; in short, that the history of Niagara and of the Yosemite -would repeat itself in the Yellowstone. To avoid such a calamity only -one course was open, and that was for the government to retain control -of the entire region. That the necessity of such a course should have -been set forth independently by several different parties, as we find -it to have been, is therefore not in the least surprising. - -But in as much as the development of the project must have started -from some one source, it is of interest historically to determine what -this source was. We find it to have been the Washburn Expedition of -1870.[AF] The subject was discussed by the party at the first camp -after leaving the geyser regions near the junction of the Firehole and -Gibbon Rivers. The date was September 19, 1870. The members of the -party were sitting around the camp-fire after supper, conversing about -what they had seen, and picturing to themselves the important pleasure -resort which so wonderful a region must soon become. The natural -impulse to turn the fruits of discovery to the personal profit of the -discoverer made its appearance, and it was suggested that it would be -a "profitable speculation" to take up land around the various objects -of interest. The conversation had not proceeded far on these lines -when one of the party, Cornelius Hedges, interposed and said that -private ownership of that region, or any part of it, ought never to be -countenanced; but that it ought to be set apart by the government and -forever held to the unrestricted use of the people. This higher view -of the subject found immediate acceptance with the other members of -the party. It was agreed that the project should be at once set afoot -and pushed vigorously to a finish. - -[AF] Mr. Folsom deserves mention in this connection. In the manuscript -of his article in the _Western Monthly_ was a reference to the Park -idea; but the publishers cut out a large part of his paper, giving -only the descriptions of the natural wonders, and this reference was -cut out with the rest. Mr. Folsom also suggested the idea to General -Washburn, of which fact Mr. N. P. Langford is still a living witness. -From Mr. Folsom's suggestion, however, as from Mr. Catlin's, no direct -result can be traced. - -As soon as the party reached Helena, a series of articles appeared in -the daily papers of that city describing the late expedition, and in -one of these, written by Mr. Hedges and published in the _Helena -Herald_ November 9, 1870, occurs what is believed to be the first -public reference to the Park project. - -The next mention of the subject was in Mr. Langford's lecture, -delivered, as already related, in Washington, January 19, 1871; in New -York, January 21, 1871; and at a later date in Minneapolis. At each of -these places he closed his lecture with a reference to the importance -of setting apart this region as a National Park. The _New York -Tribune_ of January 23, 1871, thus quotes Mr. Langford: - -"This is probably the most remarkable region of natural attractions in -the world; and, while we already have our Niagara and Yosemite, this -new field of wonders should be at once withdrawn from occupancy, and -set apart as a public National Park for the enjoyment of the American -people for all time." - -Such is the origin of the idea which has found realization in our -present Yellowstone Park. The history of the Act of Dedication, by -which the Park was created, may be briefly told. The general plan for -a vigorous prosecution of the project was arranged in Helena, Montana, -mainly by Nathaniel P. Langford, Cornelius Hedges, and William H. -Clagett, who had just been elected delegate to Congress from Montana, -and who had already himself independently urged the importance of -converting this region into a public park. Mr. Langford went to -Washington when Congress convened, and he and Mr. Clagett drew the -Park Bill, except as to description of boundaries, which was furnished -by Dr. Hayden. The bill was introduced in the House by Mr. Clagett, -December 18, 1871. Senator Pomeroy, of Kansas, had expressed a desire -to perform a like service in the Senate, and accordingly Mr. Clagett, -as soon as he had presented the measure to the House, took a copy to -the Senate chamber and gave it to Senator Pomeroy, who immediately -introduced it. In each House it was referred to the Committee on -Public Lands. In the Senate no formal report was prepared. In the -House the Hon. Mark H. Dunnell, of Minnesota, chairman of the -sub-committee having the bill in charge, addressed a letter under date -of January 27, 1872, to the Secretary of the Interior, asking his -opinion upon the proposed measure. The Secretary replied, under date -of January 29th, fully indorsing the project, and submitting a brief -report by Dr. Hayden, which forcibly presented all the main features -of the case. - -The bill, being thus before Congress, was put through mainly by the -efforts of three men, Dr. F. V. Hayden, N. P. Langford, and Delegate -William H. Clagett. Dr. Hayden occupied a commanding position in this -work, as representative of the government in the explorations of 1871. -He was thoroughly familiar with the subject, and was equipped with an -exhaustive collection of photographs and specimens gathered the -previous summer. These were placed on exhibition, and were probably -seen by all members of Congress. They did a work which no other agency -could do, and doubtless convinced every one who saw them that the -region where such wonders existed should be carefully preserved to the -people forever. Dr. Hayden gave to the cause the energy of a genuine -enthusiasm, and his work that winter will always hold a prominent -place in the history of the Park. - -Mr. Langford, as already stated, had publicly advocated the measure in -the previous winter. He had rendered service of the utmost importance, -through his publications in _Scribner's Magazine_ in the preceding -May and June. Four hundred copies of these magazines were brought and -placed upon the desks of members of Congress on the days when the -measure was to be brought to vote. During the entire winter, Mr. -Langford devoted much of his time to the promotion of this work. - -The Hon. William H. Clagett, as delegate from the Territory most -directly interested in the passage of the bill, took an active -personal part in its advocacy from beginning to end. - -Through the efforts of these three gentlemen, and others less -conspicuously identified with the work, this measure received perhaps -the most thorough canvass of any bill that has ever passed Congress. -All the members were personally visited and, with few exceptions, won -to the cause. The result was a practical unanimity of opinion when the -measure came to a vote. This first took place in the Senate, the bill -being passed by that body January 30th. It was warmly supported upon -its passage by several members and opposed by one, Senator Cole, of -California; a fact the more remarkable because that Senator had in his -own state--in the preemption by private parties of the Yosemite -wonderland--the most convincing example possible of the wisdom of such -a measure as that proposed. - -The Senate bill came up from the Speaker's table in the House of -Representatives, February 27th. Mr. Dunnell stated that the Committee -on Public Lands had instructed him to ask the House to pass the Senate -bill. Hon. H. L. Dawes, of Massachusetts, warmly advocated the -measure, which was then passed by a decisive vote.[AG] The bill -received the President's signature March 1, 1872. - -[AG] No yea and nay vote was taken in the Senate. The vote in the -House was--yeas, 115; nays, 65; not voting, 60. - -This subject has been treated somewhat in detail because there has -long been a false impression among the people as to who it was that -first put forward this important project. To no individual is the -public more indebted for the creation of the Park than to Dr. F. V. -Hayden, who was long prominently connected with the geological surveys -of the government. But he did not, as is generally supposed, originate -the idea. His statement in his report for 1878, Vol. II, p. xvii, -that, "so far as is now known, the idea of setting apart a large tract -about the sources of the Yellowstone River, as a National Park, -originated with the writer," is entirely erroneous; and there is the -less excuse for the error in that Dr. Hayden had himself heard the -measure advocated by Mr. Langford in his Washington lecture. In fact, -he is known to have said in later years, only a short time before his -death, while residing in Philadelphia, that when the project was first -talked of among the members of his party, in the summer of 1871, he -personally disapproved it because he doubted the practicability of -adequately guarding so vast a region; but that, upon further -reflection, he became converted to the measure and was thereafter its -most ardent advocate. - -But it is not so much actual facts, as what men believe these facts to -be, that controls human action; and it is unquestionably true that the -above quotation correctly expresses the views of the great majority -of members of Congress when the Park measure was before that body. It -is not too much to say that Dr. Hayden's influence, as the official -representative of the government, was a controlling factor in the -passage of that measure. - -Perhaps no act of our national Congress has received such general -approbation at home or such profuse commendation from foreigners as -that creating the Yellowstone National Park. The lapse of twenty years -has only served to confirm and extend its importance; and to give -additional force to the sentiment so well expressed by the Earl of -Dunraven when he visited the Park in 1874: - -"All honor then to the United States for having bequeathed as a free -gift to man the beauties and curiosities of 'Wonderland.' It was an -act worthy of a great nation, and she will have her reward in the -praise of the present army of tourists, no less than in the thanks of -the generations of them yet to come."[AH] - -[AH] Page xi, "The Great Divide." See Appendix E. - -It was a notable act, not only on account of the transcendent -importance of the territory it was designed to protect, but because it -was a marked innovation in the traditional policy of governments. From -time immemorial privileged classes have been protected by law in the -withdrawal, for their exclusive enjoyment, of immense tracts for -forests, parks and game preserves. But never before was a region of -such vast extent as the Yellowstone Park set apart for the use of all -the people without distinction of rank or wealth. - -The example thus set by the United States has been widely followed. -We have now the Yosemite and Sequoia National Parks, and numerous -parks upon the sites of great battle-fields. The State of New York has -a Niagara Park and contemplates setting apart a portion of the -Adirondack region. Minnesota has the Itasca State Park, including the -sources of the Mississippi. Canada also has a public park at Niagara, -and a large reservation in the midst of the finest scenery of the -Rocky Mountains. New Zealand has set a part for public use the region -of her hot springs and geysers. Finally the question is being mooted -of reserving a vast tract of Africa wherein the large game of that -continent may be kept from annihilation. - - - - -CHAPTER XI. - -WHY SO LONG UNKNOWN? - - -There is no more singular fact connected with the history of the Upper -Yellowstone country than its long immunity from the presence of white -men. From the date when Lewis and Clark first stood at the Three Forks -of the Missouri, less than one hundred miles distant from this notable -region, sixty-five years elapsed before it was fully known. In the -meantime all the surrounding country had been thoroughly explored. -Cities, villages, farms and highways had been established throughout -the west. A railroad had been built across the continent. But around -the head waters of the Yellowstone, the most attractive region of all, -it was still _terra incognita_. A fact so remarkable requires adequate -explanation. - -The most difficult feature of the question is the fact that no -knowledge of this region appears ever to have been derived from the -Indians. Lewis and Clark were told of the Great Falls of the Missouri, -and of other notable geographical features, long before they saw them. -But of the far more wonderful falls of the Yellowstone, of the great -lake in the mountains, or of the marvelous volcanic phenomena in the -same neighborhood, they received no hint. There is not a single -instance on record, so far as we can discover, except in the meager -facts noted in an earlier chapter, where rumors of this strange -country appear to have fallen from the lips of Indians. And yet it -was not a region unknown to them, for they had certainly passed back -and forth across it for a long period in the past. Their deep silence -concerning it is therefore no less remarkable than mysterious. - -But how was it that the long period of the fur trade should have -passed without disclosing this country? To this question a more -satisfactory answer may be returned. The Upper Yellowstone country was -indeed, as we have seen, frequently visited in these early years. But -it was never favorite territory. Old trappers say that, although it -abounded in beaver, they were not so plentiful as in lower altitudes, -while on the streams impregnated with mineral matter, the furs were -not so good. The seasons also were unpropitious. The winter snows were -so deep--they came so early and remained so late--that little could be -done there except from the middle of June to the middle of September. -But furs taken during the summer months are of inferior quality, and -there was consequently no inducement to trap. Moreover it was -generally at this time that the gatherings at posts and rendezvous -took place, and after these were over but little time remained. Causes -like these prevented extensive operations in this region, and -doubtless only a comparatively small number of trappers ever saw it. - -Then, the interest of the trader was against the dissemination of any -knowledge which might induce immigration and hasten the certain ruin -of his occupation. The stress of competition also caused him to remain -silent concerning the places he had seen, lest a rival should profit -thereby. He took no pains to reveal the country, and the trappers were -too illiterate to do so had they wished. With the one notable -exception which has been mentioned in a previous chapter, no -important press notice of these regions appeared during the entire -sixty-five years. - -The fur business itself quickly ran its course, and with it -disappeared all probability of an early discovery of the geyser -regions from this cause. The war with Mexico followed, with the vast -cession of territory which it secured. Then came the highly important -discovery of gold in California. Already the Mormon emigration had -taken place. These great events completely changed the character and -purpose of western exploration. The whole west was forgotten excepting -only California and the Salt Lake Valley, and the routes leading to -them. None of these led close to the geyser regions. On the north were -the British fur trader's route, and the Missouri River route, both of -which led directly west to the Columbia. To the south was the great -thoroughfare along the Platte River and though South Pass, leading to -Utah, California and Oregon. Still further south were the long known -routes near the border of Old Mexico. It was hopelessly improbable -that gold seekers bound to the Pacific Coast along any of these routes -would stray into the mountain fastnesses about the sources of the -Yellowstone. - -Finally the whole energy of the government in the field of exploration -was directed away from this region. In the period from 1804-6, the -date of Lewis and Clark's expedition, to 1870, the date of the real -discovery of the Park, there were no fewer than one hundred and ten -explorations in the country west of the Mississippi, nearly all of -which had government authority, and were conducted on a scientific -basis. Of these, eighty-four were in the territory lately acquired -from Mexico, and mostly in the far south and west. Nineteen were east -of the Bighorn Mountains, five north of the Yellowstone, and only two -in the region about the Upper Yellowstone. Of these two expeditions -one was that of Lewis and Clark, and was in no wise intended to -explore the Upper Yellowstone further than might be necessary to find -a good route to the Pacific. This leaves but a single expedition of -the whole number, that of Captain Raynolds, which was directed to this -specific territory. How the purpose of this expedition was defeated by -the heavy snow in the mountains and by the solar eclipse of 1860, has -been elsewhere related. - -And so it came about that it was the gold-seeker who finally revealed -the well-kept secret of the Yellowstone. Itself destitute of mineral -wealth, this region could not escape the ubiquitous prospector. It was -not, indeed, by him that it was publicly proclaimed to the world. He -cared little for any country that was destitute of "color" or "pay." -But the hints he dropped put others on the track and opened the door -to real discovery. - -This fact of long delay in the discovery of the Upper Yellowstone is -the most important in its history. Had it been known at an earlier -date, its fate would have been deplorably different. The period of the -fur traders was too early for the interest of the people to demand, or -the power of the government to enforce, its protection. If Captain -Raynolds had discovered it, all its most valuable tracts would have -been preempted long before the government would have been able to give -it attention. Fortunately, the discovery was delayed until there was -a considerable population in the country near by, and the government -was prepared actively to consider the matter. Before settlers could -establish a permanent foothold, the Park was created, and all the -vexatious obstacles, which might otherwise have defeated the project, -were avoided. - - - - -CHAPTER XII. - -LATER EXPLORATIONS. - - -As soon as the remarkable character of the country about the sources -of the Yellowstone became generally known, there was a rush of -explorers to its borders. Every expedition that could possibly extend -the field of its labors in that direction did so, and there was -scarcely a summer during the next twenty years that the Park was not -the scene of some official exploration or visit. - -By far the most important of these were the various expeditions under -the United States Geological Survey. Dr. Hayden was again in the -country with two parties in 1872, and very widely extended the range -of observations of the previous year. In 1878, survey parties again -entered the Park and resumed work there on a much more minute and -extensive scale. The result of that year's explorations appeared in -1883 in the form of an elaborate report by Dr. Hayden and his -co-workers, which entered with much detail into the more important -subjects of scientific interest. It was embellished with a great -number of engravings and colored plates, and with an exhaustive series -of topographical and geological maps. The work was again taken up in -1883, and was continued for several years. All questions of scientific -importance were investigated more thoroughly than ever before, and -many valuable official reports and monographs, together with a superb -map, have been the result. - -In 1872, General John Gibbon, U. S. A., with a considerable party, -made a tour of the Park, passing by the usual route from Mammoth Hot -Springs _via_ Mt. Washburn, the Grand Cañon, and the Lake, to the -Firehole Geyser Basins. On his way home he attempted to ascend the -north Fork of the Madison, following an old trail; but he abandoned -the attempt after going a few miles. His name, which was given to the -river, has also attached to many other features along that valley. - -In 1873, Captain William A. Jones, of the Corps of Engineers, passed -through the Park as part of a more extended reconnaissance. He was the -first to carry a party through the "impassable barrier" of the -Absaroka Range. Jones Creek, just east of the northern portion of the -Yellowstone Lake, shows where the party entered the Park. From the -Lake the expedition passed down the east bank of the river to the -valley of Junction Butte; thence west to Mammoth Hot Springs; thence -back over the usual trail _via_ Tower Creek, Mt. Washburn, the Grand -Cañon and Mud Geyser, to the Lower Geyser Basin; thence _via_ the -Upper Basin to the west shore of the Yellowstone Lake; thence to the -Upper Yellowstone River; thence through Two-Ocean Pass and Two-Gwo-Tee -Pass to the valley of Wind River. The chief results of this -expedition, in the line of original discovery, were the passage of the -Absaroka Range, the verification of the traditional "Two-Ocean Water," -between Atlantic and Pacific Creeks, in Two-Ocean Pass, and the -discovery of the extremely easy pass (Two-Gwo-Tee[AI]) over the -Continental Divide, between the Snake and Wind Rivers. Prof. Theodore -B. Comstock accompanied the expedition as geologist. A valuable report -of the reconnaissance appeared in 1875.[AJ] - -[AI] So named by Captain Jones for one of his Indian guides. - -[AJ] See Appendix E. - -In 1875, Captain William Ludlow, of the Corps of Engineers, made a -reconnaissance from Carroll, Montana, on the Missouri River, to the -Yellowstone Park and return. In the Park he followed the previously -traveled routes and developed little in the line of original -discovery. He succeeded, however, in obtaining a very accurate -measurement of the height of the Yellowstone Falls, and his report[AK] -forms one of the ablest brief descriptions of the Park extant. Among -his civil assistants was George Bird Grinnell, now widely known as the -editor of _Forest and Stream_, and as one of the most steadfast and -watchful guardians the Park has ever had. - -[AK] See Appendix E. - -During the same season a distinguished party, consisting of the -Secretary of War, Gen. W. W. Belknap, and several prominent officers -and civilians, with Lieutenant G. C. Doane, of National Park fame, as -guide, made a complete tour of the Park. An exceedingly interesting -narrative[AL] of the trip was written by Gen. W. E. Strong, who was a -member of the party. - -[AL] See Appendix E. - -In 1877, Gen. W. T. Sherman and staff made a tour of the Park. His -letters on the subject to the Secretary of War, and the official -report prepared by Gen. O. M. Poe of his staff, form a valuable -contribution to the literature of the Park.[AM] - -[AM] See Appendix E. - -In the same year Gen. O. O. Howard crossed the reservation in pursuit -of the Nez Percés Indians. - -In 1880, the Hon. Carl Schurz, Secretary of the Interior, accompanied -by Gen. Crook with a large number of officers and soldiers, and an -immense pack train, entered the Park from the valley of Henry Fork and -made an extended tour. - -In 1881, Captain W. S. Stanton, of the Corps of Engineers, made a -reconnaissance through the Park, entering by the way of Soda Butte -Creek, and passing out by the Madison Valley. The most important -result of his work in the Park was a more accurate table of distances -over some of the routes than had previously been in use. - -In July and August of this year, the Hon. John W. Hoyt, Governor of -Wyoming, with a military escort under command of Major Julius W. -Mason, U. S. A., made an extended reconnaissance to discover a -practicable wagon route to the Yellowstone Park from the south-east. -He entered the Park by way of the Upper Yellowstone, passed through it -by way of Yellowstone and Shoshone Lakes, the Firehole Geyser Basins, -the Grand Cañon, the lower end of Yellowstone Lake, and left it along -the route by which Captain Jones had entered in 1873. - -In the years 1881 and 1882, General Sheridan, with parties of -considerable size, twice crossed the Park and visited its most -important points. His expeditions were of great value to the Park from -the forcible warning which he gave to the public concerning the -demoralized condition of its civil administration. - -[Illustration: - - _Terry Engr. Co._ _Haynes, Photo., St. Paul._ - -1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 - -Presidential Party of 1883. - -1. John Schuyler Crosby, Governor of Montana Territory; 2. Michael V. -Sheridan, Lieutenant-Colonel and Military Secretary; 3. Philip H. -Sheridan, Lieutenant-General, U. S. Army; 4. Anson Stager, -Brigadier-General, U. S. Volunteers; 5. W. P. Clark, Captain Second -Cavalry, U. S. Army; 6. Chester A. Arthur, President of the United -States; 7. Dan. G. Rollins, Surrogate of New York; 8. James F. -Gregory, Lieutenant-Colonel and Aide-de-camp; 9. Robert T. Lincoln, -Secretary of War; 10. George G. Vest, United States Senator from -Missouri.] - -The most elaborate expedition that ever passed through this region -took place in August, 1883.[AN] It included among its members the -President of the United States, the Secretary of War, the -Lieutenant-General of the Army, a United States Senator, and several -other distinguished officers and civilians. The interesting part of -the journey lay between Fort Washakie, Wyo., and the Northern Pacific -Railroad at Cinnabar, Mont. The party traveled entirely on horseback, -accompanied by one of the most complete pack trains ever organized in -this or any other country, and escorted by a full troop of cavalry. -Couriers were stationed every twenty miles with fresh relays, and by -this means communication was daily had with the outside world. The -whole distance traveled was 350 miles, through some of the wildest, -most rugged, and least settled portions of the west. No accident or -drawback occurred to mar the pleasure of the expedition. The great -pastime _en route_ was trout fishing, in which the President and -Senator Vest were acknowledged leaders. The phenomenal "catches" of -these distinguished sportsmen might pass into history as typical "fish -stories," were they not vouched for by the sober record of official -dispatches, and the unerring evidence of photographer Haynes' camera. -The elaborate equipment of this expedition, the eminent character of -its _personnel_, and the evident responsibility resting upon those who -conducted it, attracted a great deal of attention at the time, and -gave it a prominent place in the annals of Western Wyoming.[AO] - -[AN] The year 1883 seems to have been the banner year for -distinguished visitors to the Park. The list of arrivals for that year -includes the President of the United States and a member of his -cabinet; the Chief-Justice and an Associate Justice of the United -States Supreme Court; the General, Lieutenant-General, and a large -number of other distinguished officers of the army; six United States -Senators; one Territorial Governor; a prominent railroad president; -the Ministers from Great Britain and Germany; the President of the -Admiralty Division of the High Court of Justice, England; three -members of Parliament; and a considerable number of other eminent -personages, both from this country and abroad. - -[AO] See Appendix E--"A Journey through the Y. N. P., etc." - -To these various expeditions must be added the extensive, though -desultory, explorations of P. W. Norris during the five years that he -was Superintendent of the Park. - -It has thus come about that the Yellowstone National Park, though -remote, inaccessible, and of great extent, is about the most -thoroughly explored section of the United States. Within the territory -bounded by the 44th and 45th parallels of latitude, and the 110th and -111th meridians of longitude, there are nearly four hundred -geographical names. The names of hot springs and geysers would -probably double the number. To appreciate this fact, it must be -remembered that there are no settlements in the Park, and that -counties, townships, cities, and villages, which on ordinary maps form -so large a proportion of the names, are here entirely absent. That -region has indeed been a paradise for the explorer, the topographer, -and the geologist; and its splendid opportunities have not gone -unimproved. - -Although not strictly in the line of original exploration, the few -winter journeys that have been made through the Park may nevertheless -most appropriately be considered in this place, reserving for a later -chapter a description of the difficult and hazardous nature of these -undertakings. The first of these expeditions was in 1887, under the -auspices of the _New York World_, and was led by Frederick Schwatka, -the Arctic explorer. It was organized on a grand scale, "with Arctic -'sleeping bags,' the Norwegian 'ski,' the Canadian 'web' snow shoe, -and toboggans to carry supplies, photographic equipment, and -astronomical instruments." But the elaborate outfit proved fatal to -the enterprise, which quickly resulted in a magnificent failure. The -conditions were different from those in Arctic travel, and the recent -fall of light snow negatived any attempt to move toboggans through it -successfully. The party consumed three days in getting to Norris, a -distance of twenty miles. Here Lieutenant Schwatka became ill and the -expedition was abandoned. - -But Mr. F. J. Haynes, the well known Park photographer, who had -accompanied the party, resolved to continue the tour in order to -secure a collection of winter views. Three other members of the party -joined him. They abandoned the toboggan and strapped the baggage on -their backs. They went by way of the usual route to the Upper Geyser -Basin, where they were snow-bound for five days in a fearful blizzard. -Thence they went to the Grand Cañon, and from that point over Mount -Washburn to Yancey's. On this part of the trip the party nearly lost -their lives, wandering for three days in a blinding storm without food -or shelter. The circuit covered about two hundred miles, and the -temperature ranged from ten to fifty-two degrees below zero during the -entire trip of twenty-nine days. - -In March, 1894, two very important winter expeditions were made in the -Park. Mr. F. J. Haynes went through for the purpose of extending his -line of winter views, and also of photographing the Park game. -Accompanying him was Felix Burgess, government scout. - -Following this party by a few days, and joining it at the Grand Cañon, -came another party with a staff correspondent of _Forest and Stream_. -This gentleman, Mr. E. Hough, of Chicago, Ill., made the entire round -of the Park, studying its game and other similar matters.[AP] His -narrative, published in _Forest and Stream_, forms one of the most -entertaining and valuable contributions yet made to the literature of -the Park. These two expeditions played an important part in securing -the enactment of the National Park Protective Act, in May, 1894. - -[AP] See Appendix E, "Yellowstone Park Game Exploration." - - - - -CHAPTER XIII. - -AN INDIAN CAMPAIGN THROUGH THE YELLOWSTONE PARK. - - -In a letter dated at Fort Ellis, Montana Territory, August 19, 1877, -addressed to the Hon. George W. McCreary, Secretary of War, the -writer, General W. T. Sherman, then on a tour of inspection of the -"country north of the Union Pacific Railroad," tells of his recent -visit to the Yellowstone National Park. This was about the period when -our Indian wars in the Far West were at their height. Only a year had -elapsed since the Custer massacre. It was the crisis of the Indian -military question. There was at that time scarcely a spot in the whole -Missouri and Yellowstone Valleys that was safe from Indian -depredations. Naturally, therefore, General Sherman had his mind upon -this subject when his small party, comparatively unprotected, were -traveling through the wilds of the National Park. But he saw nothing -there to excite his fears, and in the letter above referred to, says: -"We saw no signs of Indians and felt at no moment more sense of danger -than we do here." It will presently be seen how delusive was this -fancied security, and by how narrow a margin it escaped resulting -disastrously to the General's party. - -The tour from Fort Ellis to the Park and return had taken from August -4th to August 18th. On the latter date, the party met an ingoing -company of tourists from Helena composed of the following persons: A. -J. Weikert, Richard Dietrich, Frederick Pfister, Joseph Roberts, -Charles Kenck, Jack Stewart, August Foller, Leslie Wilke, L. Duncan, -and Benjamin Stone (colored cook). The party followed the usual route -to the Grand Cañon and Falls of the Yellowstone, where they were in -camp August 24th. - -As they were entering the territory of the Park, another party was on -the point of leaving it after a tour of about two weeks. This party -was composed of the following persons, most of whom were from -Radersburg, Montana: George F. Cowan and wife, Frank and Ida -Carpenter, brother and sister of Mrs. Cowan, Charles Mann, William -Dingee, Albert Oldham, A. J. Arnold, and a Mr. Meyers. They had formed -a permanent camp in the Lower Geyser Basin, where the Fountain Hotel -now stands, and from that point had made daily short excursions to the -various localities of interest. They all visited the geyser basins and -some of the party crossed to the Lake and Cañon of the Yellowstone. -They must have been seen by Sherman's party, for they were directly in -his route. The party had completed their tour of the Park, August 23d, -and had arranged to set out for home early on the following morning. - -In order to understand the unfortunate turn which the affairs of these -two tourist parties were about to take, it will be necessary to -explain, in briefest outline, the cause and previous incidents of one -of the most remarkable Indian campaigns in our history. - -From the time of Lewis and Clark, the Nez Percé Indians had dwelt in -what are now the States of Oregon, Washington, and Idaho. Their -territory extended from the Salmon River on the south to the Pelouse -River on the north, and from the Bitter Root Mountains westward into -the present States of Idaho and Washington. In 1855, they ceded to the -United States a part of their territory, and the principal chiefs -located in the several portions of the remainder. In 1860, gold was -discovered on the reservation and the usual gold rush followed. The -danger of a conflict with the Indians became so great that a temporary -arrangement, pending action by the government, was made between them -and their Indian agent, opening a portion of the reservation "to the -whites in common with the Indians for mining purposes." - -But the settlers did not stop with these concessions. In defiance of -law, they built the town of Lewiston on the reservation, and gave -other proofs of their project for permanent occupancy. It soon became -necessary for the government to take some decisive step, and this was -accomplished in 1863 by a new treaty in which the Indians relinquished -three of their most important valleys, the Wallowa, the Alpowai, and -the Salmon River. - -The treaty, however, was far from receiving the general assent of all -the chiefs. A formidable faction, headed by Chiefs Joseph, Looking -Glass, Big Thunder, White Bird, and others, refused to be bound by it, -and were henceforth referred to in official reports as the "Non-treaty -Nez Percés." For a time the authorities made no effort to enforce the -new treaty, and the Indians were "tacitly permitted to roam" over -their ancient hunting-grounds. - -This condition of affairs continued for thirteen years with various -efforts in the meantime to arrive at some more satisfactory -settlement. Finally, in 1876, a civil and military commission was -appointed to visit the Nez Percé Indians, to examine into their -grievances, and to determine what measures were necessary for a -permanent settlement of the question. The report[AQ] of this -Commission is interesting, both for the facts it relates in regard to -the tribal life and characteristics of the Nez Percé Indians, and for -the heroic treatment of the long-standing troubles which it -recommends. - -[AQ] See Report of Secretary of the Interior, 1877, part 1, p. 607. -See also Appendix E, "Nez Percé Indians," etc. - -These Indians were altogether a peculiar people. The early -missionaries had converted them to the Christian faith, and, whether -from that cause, or from natural proclivity, they were among the most -religious of our Indian tribes. There is a general concensus of -authorities that, despite certain grave defects of character, they -were, mentally and morally, far above the average Indian. In later -times, approaching the period covered by this sketch, they fell under -the influence of a class of mystics called "dreamers," who taught a -doctrine of land ownership which was the immediate cause of all their -subsequent troubles. This doctrine was, in substance, that "the -'Creative Power,' when he made the earth, made no marks, no lines of -division or separation, upon it, and that it should be allowed to -remain as it is;" that it "should not be disturbed by man, and that -any cultivation of the soil, or other improvements, any voluntary -submission to the control of government," were incompatible with the -true purpose for which it was made. At bottom it was the broad -principle that no man or aggregation of men can take from other men -the right to enjoy what nature has made free for all. Why the -Commission should characterize this doctrine as "pernicious," unless a -thing is pernicious whenever it is impracticable, is not easy to -understand. From the point of view of the nomadic life of the redmen, -it is hard to conceive a theory of land tenure, or the want of it, -more nearly approaching a perfect ideal. - -Unfortunately for such a doctrine, at the point at which American -history had now arrived, it was no longer possible of realization; and -any attempt to put it in force could not result otherwise than in -failure. So it was with Joseph and his followers. The government for a -long time overlooked their infractions of the Treaty of 1863, but -finally was compelled to interfere. The Commission recommended that -the existing treaty be enforced, by military aid if necessary. The -recommendation was approved, and to General O. O. Howard fell the task -of putting the Indians on their proper reservation. - -For a time it seemed that they would be induced to submit without the -employment of active force; but just as success was apparently -assured, the Indians murdered some twenty white men, women, and -children, in revenge for one of their number killed the previous year. -Peaceful negotiations came at once to an end, and the military -authorities assumed control of the situation. This was June 13, 1877. - -Between that date and July 12th, three battles were fought, in which -both sides suffered severely, and the Indians displayed extraordinary -fighting ability. They then left their country--as it proved, not to -return--and set out across the mountains to their oft-visited "buffalo -country," in the Judith Basin, far to the eastward of the Upper -Missouri. - -But their route lay too close to the military post of Fort Missoula -and to the towns in the more thickly settled portions of Montana. They -bore off to the southward, through a country with whose people they -were well acquainted, and with whom they had often traded in previous -excursions to the buffalo country. Here they found friends and -obtained the supplies they needed. - -In the meantime, General Gibbon, with a small force, which he had -gathered from Forts Benton, Shaw, and Missoula, and from volunteers -among Montana citizens, was in close pursuit. He overtook the Indians -on the Big Hole River, in South-western Montana, where a desperate -battle ensued, in which his own force was severely handled. - -The Indians then passed south into Idaho, with Howard in pursuit, -swung around to the east, and re-crossed into Montana by way of Henry -Lake. Near Camas Creek, they had an engagement with the pursuing -troops. - -Howard arrived at Henry Lake at 8 A. M., August 23d, just as the -Indians had left. The long marches compelled him to halt at this point -for three or four days, to rest his men and replenish his supplies. -This gave the Indians a considerable start, of which, however, they -took only a leisurely advantage. Their route lay across the -Yellowstone Park, which they entered by Targhee Pass, and on the night -of August 23d they encamped on the Firehole River, in the Yellowstone -National Park, a short distance from where we left the Radersburg -tourists, and less than twenty miles from the camp of the Helena -party. The interest of the campaign for the next week centers chiefly -upon the fortunes of these unlucky excursionists. - -Before sunrise on the morning of August 24th, Arnold and Dingee, who -had got up to prepare the camp fire, saw Indians approaching. The rest -of the party were promptly aroused. The Indians at first professed to -be friendly and little alarm was felt; but the party nevertheless had -no appetite for breakfast, and immediately broke camp and started down -the river toward home. But they were soon surrounded by the increasing -number of Indians, who began to give indications that trouble was at -hand. They were told that it would be unsafe to proceed down stream -further, that the only course was to turn back with the Indians. This -they were soon forced to do. After traveling some two miles up Nez -Percé Creek, it became impossible to take the wagons further. The -horses were unhitched and the ladies mounted upon them, and in this -manner the march was resumed. At this point Mr. Frank Carpenter was -induced to hasten to the front in search of Chief Looking Glass to see -if he could not secure the party's release; but his suspicions -becoming soon aroused, he refused to go further, and returned. In -fact, it turned out later that Looking Glass was not in front at the -time and that the pretense that he was, was a mere subterfuge to aid -in scattering the party. The captives were now taken up the East Fork -of the Firehole (Nez Percé Creek) to the foot of Mary Mountain, where -a consultation with the chiefs was had. Mr. Cowan was spokesman for -the whites, and Poker Joe, who knew English well, for the Indians. The -party were here set at liberty, their horses, guns and ammunition -were taken, they were given other horses instead, and, just as the -Indians were about to resume their march, they were told to depart by -the back trail. After proceeding some three-fourths of a mile, they -were overtaken by some seventy-five young and war-painted bucks, and -were compelled to countermarch. It was about this time that two of the -party were given a hint by a friendly Indian and made their escape in -the brush. The rest continued their way back to the point where they -had been liberated and some distance beyond in the direction of Mary -Lake. Just as they reached the first sharp ascent of the mountain -about 2 P. M., in the midst of dense timber, the attack began. At the -first fire Cowan was struck in the thigh and fell from his horse. His -wife instantly rushed to his side, threw her arms around his neck, and -strenuously resisted the Indians in their further attempts to kill -him. But they partially pulled her away and an Indian shot Cowan again -in the head. He was then left for dead. - -In the meantime, Carpenter had had a narrow escape. A young Indian had -drawn his revolver upon him, when Carpenter, remembering his religion, -quickly made a sign of the cross. He was then hid by the Indians in a -clump of underbrush until the trouble was over, and was assured that -the ladies should not be harmed.[AR] - -[AR] The Indians denied that Carpenter was saved because of making a -sign of the cross although they remembered his making it. The chiefs -had strictly enjoined their followers that the whites were not to be -injured. When the few lawless bucks began the attack, some of the -other Indians interfered. Poker Joe was sent back by the chiefs for -the same purpose when they surmised what was going on. He succeeded in -preventing further trouble, and Carpenter's escape was due to this -cause. - -The other members of the party scattered promptly when the firing -began. All of them escaped to the brush, but one of them was wounded -in the attempt, and fell behind a log where he lay concealed until the -Indians had gone. - -This left Carpenter and his two sisters captive. They were taken along -with the Indians, each being lashed to a pony behind an Indian. The -captives became separated and did not see each other until ten o'clock -that night at the Indian camp near Mary Lake. The next day, August -25th, the march was resumed, and the party were taken across the -Yellowstone at the ford near Mud Geyser. Here Carpenter's fate was put -to a vote of the chiefs and by a majority of one he was given his -life. In the afternoon, the ladies were given each a pony, and, with -Carpenter, were escorted by Poker Joe back across the river. They were -then taken a mile down stream and told to depart--instructions which -they obeyed with no want of alacrity. - -Strange to say none of the party had been killed. Cowan, who had been -twice shot, and stoned also by the Indians, when they saw lingering -evidences of life, nevertheless survived. About five o'clock in the -afternoon he recovered consciousness, and drew himself up by the bow -of a tree, when lo! close behind him was another Indian with his rifle -ready to fire. He tried to get away, but the Indian fired and the ball -passed through his left hip. He now gave up hope as he fell again to -the ground. The Indian, however, did not come up. After waiting until -every one had apparently gone, Cowan crawled along till about -mid-night, seeking a place of greater safety, and then waited for -day. At daybreak he commenced crawling back toward the old camp, a -distance of eight or ten miles. He passed the abandoned wagons on the -way, where he found a dog belonging to the party. It took him four -days to reach the old camp, but once there he found matches, coffee, -and some other articles which helped him to keep alive. The day after -his arrival, he was picked up by Howard's scouts. - -Arnold, who had escaped to the brush before Cowan was shot, and had -wandered for four days until finally picked up by Howard's command -near Henry Lake, came along with the troops on the 29th, and remained -with Cowan until their arrival in Bozeman. They were taken by Howard -to near Baronett's Bridge, and then sent down the river. - -Already Carpenter and his sisters had made their way down the river, -passing close to the camp of the other party of tourists near the -Falls--whom they might have saved had they chanced to see them--and -were met by a party of soldiers under Lieutenant Schofield twelve -miles from Mammoth Hot Springs. They were escorted to the springs, -whence they went to Bottler's ranch, some distance below the Park, and -a short time afterward returned to Radersburg. It was about two weeks -before Mrs. Cowan learned that her husband was still alive. After all -these miraculous escapes, it is interesting to know that Mr. Cowan and -his wife survived to make another tour of the Park a few years later -under better conditions. - -It will not be necessary to follow in detail the fortunes of the rest -of the party. They all escaped, though with much suffering, in their -wanderings through the wilderness. - -When the captive members of the party were being marched down the -Yellowstone slope east of Mary Lake, they heard considerable firing in -the timber to their right. This is thought to have been an attack upon -two prospectors who were known to have been in the neighborhood at the -time, and who have never since been heard of. - -The party of Helena tourists in camp near the Falls of the Yellowstone -on the night of August 24th, were less fortunate than the Radersburg -party. On the morning of the 25th, they started up the river toward -the Mud Geyser. They had gone about a mile beyond Sulphur Mountain -when they discovered moving bodies of men, part of whom were fording -the river. Careful scrutiny showed them to be Indians, and the party -rightly divined that they must be the hostile Nez Percés. They hastily -retraced their steps and went into camp in the timber near the forks -of Otter Creek, about a mile and a half above the Upper Falls of the -Yellowstone. Here they remained undisturbed all day and the following -night. On the morning of the 26th, Weikert and Wilkie set out to scout -the country. They went as far as Sulphur Mountain, and finding every -thing clear, started back to camp to report. When entering the timber -just north of Alum Creek, they suddenly met a band of Indians who -promptly opened fire on them. A flight and pursuit of considerable -duration ended in the escape of both men; but not until Weikert had -been wounded. This party of Indians had just attacked and dispersed -the group in camp. They had stolen upon the camp as dinner was being -prepared, and a volley of musketry was the first warning the tourists -had of their presence. There was instant flight and most of the party -managed to get away. But Kenck was soon overtaken and killed; and -Stewart after being severely wounded, prevailed on the Indians to -spare his life. - -Weikert and Wilkie, who had hastened back to camp after their own -encounter, found every thing in confusion, and all the party gone. -They soon fell in with several of them, and together they set out for -Mammoth Hot Springs. - -And now began another series of wanderings through the trackless -wilderness of the Park. Two of the party made their way by way of the -Madison River, where they were given food by soldiers, to Virginia -City and thence to Helena. The rest of the survivors after much -hardship reached Mammoth Hot Springs, and soon after left the Park -with the exception of Weikert, Dietrich, the colored cook, Stone, and -a man named Stoner. - -On August 31st, Weikert and one McCartney, owner of the first hotel -ever built in the Park, went to the Falls of the Yellowstone in order -if possible to learn the fate of the missing members of the party. -Shortly after their departure from the Springs a band of Indians -prowled across the country from the Yellowstone to the Gardiner and -went down the latter stream as far as Henderson's Ranch near the -present town of Cinnabar. After a brief skirmish and a general pillage -here, they went back to Mammoth Hot Springs. Stoner and the colored -cook fled precipitately, but Dietrich, believing the Indians to be -friendly scouts, remained behind and was shot dead in the door of the -hotel. Stone made a lucky escape by climbing a tree, and his -subsequent ludicrous recital of his experience became a standing jest -among the inhabitants of the Yellowstone. - -Weikert and McCartney went back to the old camp on Otter Creek, where -they buried Kenck's remains and gathered up whatever of value the -Indians had left. On their way back, when on the head waters of Black -Tail Deer Creek, they met the band of Indians who had just slain -Dietrich at Mammoth Hot Springs. A lively skirmish ensued, in which -Weikert lost his horse. The two men succeeded in finding refuge in -some neighboring brushwood. - -Just as the Indians went into camp on the night of August 23d, their -first day in the Park, they captured one Shively who was on his way to -Montana from the Black Hills. As Shively professed to know the -country, which the Nez Percés had never seen before, they impressed -him into their service as guide. He was with them thirteen days and -claims to have served them faithfully, as well as to have received -fair treatment from them. At any rate he won their confidence by his -behavior, and was watched so carelessly that he escaped one dark night -just as the Indians were crossing the north-east boundary of the Park. - -As soon as the command at Henry Lake had become recuperated, the -pursuit was vigorously resumed. Howard followed in the track of the -Indians as far as to the ford of the Yellowstone; but instead of -crossing at this point, he descended the river by the left bank to -the site of Baronett's celebrated first bridge over the Yellowstone. -From the Lower Geyser Basin to this bridge a road had to be opened for -the wagons. It was a prodigious undertaking, but was performed with -astonishing rapidity under the direction of Capt. W. F. Spurgin, -Twenty-first Infantry. The bridge was found partially destroyed by the -Indians and had to be repaired, after which the line of march was -continued up the Lamar and Soda Butte Valleys, and across the divide -to the valley of Clark's Fork. - -The authorities had been widely warned of the probable route of the -Indians and were lying in wait to intercept them. Gen. Sturgis -expected to do this as they emerged from the Absaroka Mountains; but -unfortunately he stationed himself in the wrong pass and left the one -which the Indians took unguarded. By this loss of time he fell in -behind both the Indians and Howard, who was now in close pursuit. The -Indians crossed the Yellowstone September 12th. Here Sturgis overtook -them with a company of cavalry and a slight conflict ensued. The -Indians then struck north, apparently for the British line. On -September 23d they crossed the Missouri at Cow Island and resumed -their march north. But they were intercepted by Gen. Miles in the Bear -Paw Mountains and a severe fight followed, at the northern base of the -range on Snake Creek, less than thirty miles from the boundary. The -Indians were utterly defeated and Looking Glass was killed. Most of -the survivors surrendered unconditionally and the rest escaped across -the line. This was on October 5, 1877. - -Since the first outbreak, June 13th, three months and twenty-two days -had elapsed. The flight and pursuit had extended over 1,500 miles. -There had been no fewer than fifteen engagements. The whites had lost -6 officers and 121 soldiers and citizens killed, and 13 officers and -127 soldiers and citizens wounded. A large part of the Indian losses -could never be ascertained, but their known losses were 151 killed, 88 -wounded and 489 captured. - -This celebrated campaign is well intended to elicit the fullest -sympathy for the unfortunate Nez Percés. A vast deal of sentiment has -been wasted upon the cause of the red man. Opinions have ranged from -the extreme views of Catlin, who could see no wrong in the Indian, to -those of the rabid frontiersman whose creed was "no good Indian but a -dead one." But, if there ever was a case where sympathy might well -incline to the side of the Indian, it is the one under consideration. - -The Nez Percés had always been friendly to the whites, and it was -their boast that they had never slain a white man. They were -intelligent, brave, and humane. In this campaign they bought supplies -which they might have confiscated; they saved property which they -might have destroyed; they spared hundreds of lives which other -Indians would have sacrificed. If some of the more lawless element -committed various outrages, they might justly reply that the whites -had fired into their tents where their women and children were -sleeping. In short, their conduct in this campaign places them in all -respects vastly nearer the standard of civilized people than any other -of the native tribes of the continent. - -In estimating the causes that led to the war, history can not fail to -establish that the Indians were in the right. It was a last desperate -stand against the inevitable destiny which was robbing the Indian of -his empire; a final protest against the intolerable encroachments of -the pale face. In defense of this principle, the Nez Percés staked -their all on a single throw. They lost, and were irretrievably ruined. -They were transported to a distant territory, and the land of their -fathers they saw no more.[AS] - -[AS] After the surrender, Joseph and a few of his followers were sent -to Fort Leavenworth, where they remained until July, 1878, when they -were taken to the Indian Territory. After languishing here for seven -years, they were established on the Colville Reservation in -Washington. - -The campaign of 1877 was the only one in which tourists of the -National Park were ever subjected to serious danger from the Indians. -It has left its mark indelibly upon the Park. "Nez Percé Creek" will -always remind the traveler of the terrible danger in which another -party of tourists was once placed upon the borders of that stream. -"Howard's Trail" will not soon be effaced from the forests and -mountains where Captain Spurgin, with brilliant expedition, built the -first passable highway through that tangled wilderness. - - * * * * * - -In 1878, there was a slight alarm in the Park caused by an ephemeral -raid of the Bannock Indians; but, beyond the loss of a few horses, no -damage was done. - - - - -CHAPTER XIV. - -ADMINISTRATIVE HISTORY OF THE PARK. - - -The Act of Dedication of the Yellowstone National Park indicates in -clear terms the purposes for which it was created. These are: - -(1.) The preservation of its natural curiosities, its forests, and its -game. - -(2.) The reservation of its territory from private occupancy so that -it may remain in unrestricted freedom "for the benefit and enjoyment -of the people." - -(3.) The granting of such leases and other privileges as may be -necessary for the comfort and convenience of visitors. - -One grave omission in the original act, and the long-continued failure -of Congress to remedy it by subsequent legislation, in a large degree -nullified these important purposes. Strange as it may seem, for -twenty-two years, or until the spring of 1894, there was no law -defining offenses in the Park or providing a penalty for their -commission. Wanton vandalism, destruction of game, or burning of -forests, could be visited with no heavier punishment than ejection -from the Park and confiscation of "outfit." In the reports of every -Superintendent, for more than a score of years, this condition of -affairs was brought to the attention of Congress. Meanwhile there were -experienced all the evils of a license which at times was wholly -unchecked and which has never until very recently been under proper -control. - -This long-standing misfortune was aggravated by another scarcely less -serious--the failure of Congress for several years to appropriate -funds for the protection and improvement of the Park. For this -failure, however, no one can justly be held faultily responsible. The -promoters of the Park project had based extravagant expectations upon -the results to be derived from leases. They believed that the revenue -from this source would amply cover the expense of opening the -necessary highways and providing a proper police force. They did not -make due allowance, for the fact that there was at that time no -railroad within 500 miles; that the new reservation was an almost -impassable wilderness, and that the construction of roads and bridges -must necessarily precede any profitable tourist business. Neither do -they seem to have realized that these leases could not, in the nature -of things, yield a revenue commensurate with the work of opening up so -wild and extensive a country. The argument of self-support was a -mistaken one. It did an important work, however, for it is doubtful if -Congress would have created this reservation had it not believed that -no additional public burden was to be incurred thereby. - -The subsequent results of this erroneous impression were in every way -unfortunate. It was several years (1872 to 1878) before any money was -appropriated for the Park, which, in the meanwhile, was left wholly -without means for its improvement and protection. The Secretary of the -Interior might indeed publish rules and regulations for its -government, but they could avail but little so long as there was no -authority to carry them into execution. In fact, the only valuable -result of the creation of the Park during these years was the -exclusion of settlers from its territory. - -Shortly after the Park was created, the Hon. N. P. Langford was -appointed its first Superintendent. The selection was in every sense -an admirable one. Mr. Langford had been a member of the famous -Washburn Expedition, and an earnest worker in securing the Act of -Dedication. He was intimately acquainted with all phases of western -life, and was an enthusiast upon the subject of his new charge. But, -from the first, his hands were completely tied. No money was ever -allowed him for his services, nor for any other form of expenditure in -the interests of the Park. He was, therefore, powerless to accomplish -effective work. His office, which he held for about five years, was a -source of great annoyance to him; for he was frequently, and most -unjustly, charged in the public press with the responsibility for a -condition of things for which he was in no sense to blame. - -In 1877, there appeared, as Mr. Langford's successor, one of the most -unique and picturesque, as well as one of the most important, -characters in the history of the Park. This was Philetus W. Norris, of -Michigan. He was appointed immediately upon the advent of President -Hayes' administration, and held office very nearly five years, or -almost exactly the same length of time as his predecessor. - -Norris filled with varying capacity the rôles of explorer, -path-finder, poet, and historian in the Park. He was a man of -extraordinary energy, and, if not in the fullest sense a practical -man, he had at least the invaluable quality of being able to produce -results. He entered upon his new field of duty with a genuine -enthusiasm, and he was fortunate in receiving from Congress -substantial means with which to carry out his plans. - -The work of Norris' administration may be conveniently considered -under three heads: his discoveries, his road building, and his -reports. - -He was pre-eminently an explorer. He not only traveled repeatedly over -all the known trails, but he penetrated the unknown sections of the -Park in every direction. Though not the discoverer, he first made -generally known the geyser basin that bears his name. He explored and -reported upon the Hoodoo region, and first called prominent attention -to the noble cañon of the Middle Gardiner. But the most important -feature of his explorations was the study he made of the history and -antiquities of the Park. We owe more to him than to any one else for -evidence of the former presence of white men in that region. His -discoveries also in the matter of prehistoric races and of early -Indian history possess scientific value. - -In the rôle of road builder, Norris was a pioneer in the Park. Before -his time, wagons could get up the Gardiner to Mammoth Hot Springs, and -up the Madison to the Lower Geyser Basin. He opened the way direct -from Mammoth Hot Springs to the Upper Geyser Basin, from the Lower -Basin to the Yellowstone River, Lake, and Falls, and from Mammoth Hot -Springs to Tower Creek. He thus shortened the old pack-train route by -one-third, and foreshadowed the general road system which Lieutenant -Kingman later formulated into a permanent project of improvement. As a -road engineer, he was not a distinguished success. His work was -ill-conceived and poorly executed, but at the same time it gave access -to many places wholly inaccessible before. All the difference between -poor roads and none at all may justly be placed to his credit. - -The third and most important feature of Norris' work was his official -reports and other writings. As he was always doing something, although -seldom in the best way, so he was always saying something, with the -same constitutional defect. Nevertheless, he has left in his five -annual reports a great deal of useful information, which he -supplemented by a long series of articles in the _Norris Suburban_, a -paper at that time largely read throughout the West. It is not too -much to say that he was a prime mover in the strong awakening of -public sentiment in regard to the Park which began to show itself -toward the close of his administration. - -Norris' work in the Yellowstone Park can not be passed over without -praise. It left its mark, as its author did his name, in every -quarter. But one thing must be charged to his account--an almost total -failure to _protect_ the Park. He did, indeed, by his public -utterances, denounce the vandalism and game destruction that were then -rampant; but he did little in a practical way to prevent them--no -more, in fact, than his predecessor, although he was given the means. - -Norris was succeeded in February, 1882, by Patrick H. Conger, of Iowa. -Of this Superintendent, it need only be said that his administration -was throughout characterized by a weakness and inefficiency which -brought the Park to the lowest ebb of its fortunes, and drew forth -the severe condemnation of visitors and public officials alike. This -administration is an important one, however, for it marks the period -of change in public sentiment already referred to, and the -commencement of reform in the government of the reservation. - -As if the unfortunate condition of affairs due to the lack of suitable -laws for the reservation were not enough, there arose in the early -part of Superintendent Conger's administration a new and even more -formidable danger, under the euphemistic title of the Yellowstone Park -Improvement Company. Previous to this time, there had been no regular -leases in the Park. Several informal permits for occupancy had been -granted, and a small number of inferior buildings had been erected. In -1880, there were nine of these buildings, nearly all of them being -plain log-cabins, with earth roofs, of the common frontier pattern. -Only two, the headquarters building at Mammoth Hot Springs and -Marshall's Hotel in the Lower Geyser Basin, rose in dignity above the -primitive type. No one as yet thought of remaining in the Park during -the winter season. - -But it finally dawned upon certain sagacious individuals that here was -a rare opportunity to exploit the government for their private -emolument under the generous guise of improving the Park, and catering -to the comfort of the tourist. A company was accordingly formed, and a -valuable ally secured in the person of the Assistant Secretary of the -Interior, who granted a lease of 4,400 acres in tracts of about a -square mile at each of the great points of interest. It was urged in -defense of this sweeping grant, that it was hoped in that way to -secure the protection which had yet failed to be found by any other -method. It was thought that, if responsible parties could be given -exclusive control of these natural curiosities, they would, at least -from motives of self-interest, preserve them. But such a monopolistic -privilege was clearly opposed to the spirit of the Act of Dedication. -Why set apart this region for the free and unrestricted enjoyment of -the people, if the Secretary of the Interior could give to private -parties absolute control of all its most important localities? Was -this a proper interpretation of "small parcels of ground," as -specified in the act? The danger involved in this action was indeed a -grave one, and it at once aroused a storm of protest throughout the -country. - -It was about this time also that there began to appear those various -railroad and segregation projects which from that time to the present -have been a formidable menace to the continued existence of the Park. -A more extensive consideration of this particular subject is reserved -for a later chapter. - -It thus became apparent as early as 1882, that immediate and radical -measures must be adopted if the Park was to be preserved in its -original condition. General Sheridan who passed through that region in -1881, 1882, and 1883, gave forcible warning of the impending danger, -and urgently appealed to the public sentiment of the country in favor -of some action which should avert it. The Governor of Montana made an -earnest appeal to Congress. Other influential voices united in the -same cause, and already it was broadly hinted that the only salvation -of the Park lay in turning it over to the military. The whole matter -was brought prominently before the next Congress, and in March, 1883, -a clause in the Sundry Civil Bill containing the annual appropriation -for the Park, forbade the granting of leases of more than ten acres to -any single party, authorized the Secretary of the Interior to call -upon the Secretary of War for troops to patrol the Park, and provided -for the employment of ten assistant superintendents who were to -constitute a police force. Thus was the bold scheme of the Improvement -Company frustrated, and the foundation laid for the present -administrative system. The Secretary of the Interior, however, seems -not to have wished to avail himself of military assistance, and it was -several years before this provision of the law was put into operation. - -It was in this same year that the killing of birds and animals in the -Park, and the taking of fish by any other method than by hook and -line, were absolutely prohibited. Previously, hunting had been allowed -so far as was necessary to supply the wants of camping parties--a -concession that practically operated as an unrestricted license. - -The failure of Congress to enact needed legislation at length became -so nearly chronic that relief was sought in another direction. Nearly -all the territory of the Park, and all its great attractions, were -within the limits of Wyoming. Might it not therefore be within the -province of territorial legislation to furnish the necessary legal -protection? The subject was agitated, and in the winter of 1884, an -act was passed, designed "to protect and preserve the timber, game, -fish, and natural curiosities of the Park," and for other purposes. -The act was very stringent in its provisions, and clearly indicated -the deep-seated nature of the disease which it has designed to cure. -But it totally failed of its purpose. The attempt at territorial -control of what was really a national institution was in itself a -grave blunder. Then, the officials chosen to execute the law seem to -have been poorly qualified for the purpose, and to have displayed -lamentable want of tact and moderation. Some of their arrests were -so tyrannical and inexcusable, as to create universal protest. -The spectacle of the assistant superintendents--federal -officials--sharing, as informers, the fines levied by a territorial -court, was not designed to create respect for the new authority. At -length the unpopularity of the law became so extreme, that it was -repealed March 10, 1886. - -Although so unwise a measure could not stand, the first effect of its -repeal was to advertise the fact that the Park was practically without -legal protection. Matters became even worse than before. The common -verdict, as gathered from official reports and other sources, is that -the body of police, styled assistant superintendents, were notoriously -inefficient if not positively corrupt. They were, for the most part, -creatures of political favoritism, and were totally unused to the -service required of them. Commissioned as guardians of the rarest -natural wonders on the globe, they not infrequently made merchandise -of the treasures which they were appointed to preserve. Under their -surveillance, vandalism was practically unchecked, and the slaughter -of game was carried on for private profit almost in sight of the -superintendent's quarters. Already some of the rarer species of -animals had suffered a depletion in numbers from which they have -never recovered; and the prediction of Prof. Comstock, in 1874, seemed -on the point of realization, that "the zoological record of to-day" -was about to "pass into the domain of the paleontologist." - -The difficulties that beset the administration of the Park seem to -have been too great for Superintendent Conger to grapple with -successfully, and he resigned, July 28, 1884. It may at least be said -in his favor, that, weak as his management had been, no charge of -corruption or dishonesty was ever brought against him. - -In his place was appointed, August 4, 1884, Robert E. Carpenter, of -Iowa. Mr. Carpenter's views of the requirements of his office were -clear and positive; and he promptly set about to carry them into -execution. In his opinion, the Park was created to be an instrument of -profit to those who were shrewd enough to grasp the opportunity. Its -protection and improvement were matters of secondary consideration. -Instead of remaining at his post during the winter season, he went to -Washington, and there, in concert with a member of the Improvement -Company, very nearly succeeded in carrying a measure through Congress -by which important tracts upon the Reservation were to be thrown open -to private occupancy. So confident of success were these conspirators -that they even located claims upon the tracts in question, and their -names appeared on claim notices posted to designate the localities. -Fortunately the measure failed of passage, but the scandal of -Superintendent Carpenter's conduct led to his prompt removal from -office. - -On the day of his removal, May 29, 1885, Colonel David W. Wear, of -Missouri, was appointed to the vacancy. Colonel Wear appears to have -been admirably fitted for the place. He at once set out to reform the -administration of the Park, and his intelligent and vigorous measures -gave the highest encouragement to those who had been familiar with the -previous condition of affairs. But, as has often happened before, and -will often happen again, he was made to suffer for the sins of his -predecessors. The bad repute into which the government of the Park had -fallen was not easily removed, and Congress finally declined to -appropriate money for a protection which did not protect. The -Secretary of the Interior was thus compelled to call upon the -Secretary of War for assistance. The régime of civilian -superintendents passed away, and that of the military superintendents -began. The change was bitterly opposed by the Secretary of the -Interior and by all who held or hoped to hold places under the old -order; but the sequel quickly proved the wisdom of this action of -Congress. The old order necessarily felt the evil of our patronage -system of office-holding; but no single act ever went so far to -eliminate this fruitful source of misfortune as the assignment of the -administrative control of the Park to the officers and soldiers of the -army. - -August 20, 1886, marks the turning point in the administrative history -of the Reservation. It was upon that day that Captain Moses Harris, -First U. S. Cavalry, relieved the civilian Superintendent of his -duties, and soldiers supplanted the so-called assistant -Superintendents as a Park police. Henceforth an entirely new order was -to obtain. It was to be seen how much could be accomplished, even in -the absence of laws, toward a vigorous and healthful administration. -Trespassers upon the Reservation were promptly removed. The -regulations were revised and extended, printed upon cloth, and posted -in all parts of the Park; and their violation was visited with summary -punishment to the full extent of the Superintendent's authority. -Abuses of leasehold rights were searchingly inquired into and reported -to the department. As soon as this show of real authority was made -manifest, and it became apparent that here was a man who meant what he -said, a great part of the difficulty was over. Nothing in fact -conduces so much to the infraction of law as a belief in the -incompetency or dishonesty of those delegated to enforce it, and the -removal of this cause was a long step in the right direction. - -The Park was particularly fortunate in its first military -Superintendent. Captain Harris possessed in a marked degree the -qualities required for that position. He was vigorous and -uncompromising in suppressing lawlessness, just and impartial in his -rulings, and untiring in his watchfulness for the public interest. -Although his immediate superior, the Secretary of the Interior, had -strenuously opposed the installation of the military in the Park, he -never failed to pay a high tribute to the efficiency with which the -new Superintendent performed his duties. In fact, this high opinion of -Captain Harris' services was soon shared by all who were familiar with -the situation. Even _Forest and Stream_, whose fidelity to the best -interests of the Park has been a distinguishing feature of that -journal for the past fifteen years, was fain to admit, although it -had regarded the change as impolitic, that under Captain Harris' -guardianship "the Park had been cared for as it never had been -before." - -Captain Harris remained in charge for nearly three years, and was -succeeded, June 1, 1889, by Captain F. A. Boutelle, First U. S. -Cavalry. That the evil of political interference and private -intriguing was not yet wholly eliminated from the affairs of the Park -became manifest when Captain Boutelle undertook to enforce the -regulations against a prominent employe of the hotel company. For -causes not publicly understood, he was unexpectedly relieved from duty -January 21, 1891, and Captain George S. Anderson, Sixth U. S. Cavalry, -the present Superintendent, was assigned in his place. - -Going back now to the Yellowstone Park Improvement Company, the -history of that erratic concern will be briefly traced. It is -important first to state, however, that the conduct of private -business in the Park has, until recent years, been most -unsatisfactory. The Park was long unfortunate in the men who sought to -carry on business within its borders, and even yet it is not wholly -free from the evil of unscrupulous and dishonest schemers. The strife, -backbiting, struggle to ruin each other, which seemed to be the chief -purpose of those who at first sought government favors on the -Reservation, can be understood only by those who have seen them, or -have gone to the trouble to examine official correspondence. More than -once has the government made these troubles the subject of special -investigation, although generally with indifferent results. - -The new hotel company had a meteoric career, promising great things, -but effecting no permanent improvement except the partial construction -of the Mammoth Hot Springs Hotel. Its fortunes early collapsed, and -the opening of the tourist season of 1885 found the great building in -the possession of unpaid workmen, who held it under a kind of military -guard until their wages should be paid. - -This company, and other lesser concerns, gradually transferred their -rights to a new company, called the Yellowstone Park Association, -which is still in operation. It is largely identified with the -Northern Pacific Railroad, and although it has a practical monopoly of -the tourist business, it has never subjected itself to the charge of -using that monopoly to the disadvantage of the public. From the old -and unsatisfactory condition of things it has built up a hotel system -which, though incomplete, is far ahead of what could be reasonably -expected in a region so remote from the great centers of civilization. - -It was in the early part of Conger's administration that the -government took up in earnest the question of road construction. For -some years, the public, thoroughly weary of Norris' roads, had been -urging the necessity of sending an engineer officer to take charge of -that important matter. This agitation bore fruit in 1883 in the -assignment of Lieutenant D. C. Kingman, of the Corps of Engineers, to -the charge of this work. His tour of duty ran through three years, and -resulted in the greatest improvement to the road system. He prepared -the project which has served as a basis of all subsequent work, and he -did much toward carrying it into execution. His reports were -especially valuable, not only in matters connected with his -particular work, but also those pertaining to the general welfare of -the Reservation. He was among the first to lift a warning voice -against the grave danger of railroad encroachment, and no one since -his time has presented this matter in a more convincing light. - -The years 1894 and 1895 have brought a radical improvement to the -administrative status of the Park. May 4, 1894, the long desired code -of laws was enacted. On August 3d of the same year, an act was passed -further regulating the question of leases and removing the most -serious defects of previous legislation. In the autumn of the same -year, the road work was taken from the charge of a non-resident -engineer with headquarters in St. Paul, and placed in direct charge of -the Superintendent, thus bringing the entire administrative control -under a single head. - -These two years have also witnessed a decided check to the schemes of -those who still persist in believing that the Park was created for -their personal aggrandizement. Strong adverse reports have been -submitted, practically for the first time, by Congressional Committees -against the so-called Segregation project, the admission of railroads -into the Park, and the construction of an electric railway therein. - -With the exception of the lack of a sufficient force of scouts -properly to patrol that region, the condition of affairs on the -Reservation is now eminently satisfactory--far more so than at any -previous period. - - - - -CHAPTER XV. - -THE NATIONAL PARK PROTECTIVE ACT. - - -One of the most important milestones in the history of the Park has -been so recently set that the public is as yet not fully conscious of -its existence. It has already been stated that for more than twenty -years the Park was wholly without adequate statutory protection; and -that this long-standing defect was finally remedied by the enactment -of a comprehensive measure in the spring of 1894. The circumstances -attending the passage of this Act, and the prompt manner in which a -great misfortune was changed into a lasting benefit, form one of those -singular instances of good fortune which have so largely characterized -the history of this region. - -Bills providing suitable protection for the Park were introduced at -the First Session of the Fifty-third Congress, just as they have been -for the past twenty years, and apparently with not much greater chance -of success. The wanton recklessness of those who seek special -privileges in the Park, and are unwilling that any measure for its -welfare shall pass unless coupled with their own private schemes, -threatened this time, as hitherto, to defeat Congressional action. But -an unforeseen event, of such powerful bearing as practically to -override all opposition, occurred in March, 1894, and quickly brought -about the desired consummation. - -It is well known that the only herd of bison, now roaming in their -native condition within the present limits of the United States, is in -the Yellowstone National Park. There has always been a lively interest -in the preservation of this herd, and its extinction would be regarded -as a deplorable calamity. With proper protection, it will undoubtedly -flourish, but there is no margin for carelessness or neglect. - -During the winter of 1894, Captain George S. Anderson, U. S. A., -Superintendent of the Park, learned that snow-shoe tracks had been -seen along Astringent Creek in the Pelican Valley east of the -Yellowstone River, in territory ranged over by the buffalo in winter. -The same tracks were seen near Soda Butte station pointing toward -Cooke City. Inquiry proved them to have been made by one Howell, a -well-known poacher and lawless character, who was evidently driving -his trade in the winter buffalo country. It was apparent that he had -left the Park for supplies and would soon return. Captain Anderson -accordingly laid his plans for capture. - -There has been given a brief account of the winter expedition through -the Park in the spring of 1894, of which Mr. F. J. Haynes and Scout -Burgess were members. Burgess was instructed to examine the country -east of the Yellowstone and obtain, if possible, a clue to Howell's -whereabouts. Early on the morning of March 12th, he set out from the -Lake hotel with a single companion, Private Troike, of the Sixth -Cavalry, and before it was scarcely daylight struck a dim snow shoe -trail in the valley of Astringent Creek. Soon after, he found the -poacher's teepe and a number of buffalo heads hung up, by means of a -pulley, to the limb of a tree so as to be out of the reach of wolves. -Every thing indicated that the poacher was there for a business of -some duration and magnitude. - -Leaving the teepe and following Howell's morning trail for some -distance, Burgess' attention was soon arrested by six rifle reports. -These six shots slew five buffalo. Burgess soon discovered Howell, -engaged in skinning the head of one of the buffalo. His rifle was -leaning against another some fifteen feet from him. A dog (but this -Burgess did not know) was coiled up under the leg of a buffalo. -Burgess thus had the dangerous duty to perform of crossing the -intervening space of some four hundred yards, where there was no cover -and where he might easily be seen by Howell or the dog. Considering -the desperate character of these poachers, and the fact that Burgess -was armed only with a revolver as against Howell's rifle, the peril -involved in this capture may be easily appreciated. But fortune was on -Burgess' side. A heavy storm was on, and the wind was blowing direct -from Howell to Burgess. This prevented the dog from scenting approach, -and Howell from hearing any noise, from the leeward. Burgess did not -stop to reckon the chances of success, but promptly sallied forth upon -his intended victim. On his way he ran upon an open ditch about ten -feet wide. To make a snow shoe jump on level ground is a feat of much -difficulty; but Burgess managed to accomplish it. By good fortune -nothing happened to arouse Howell, and Burgess got within fifteen feet -of him before he was aware that there was any one within as many -miles. With Burgess' cocked revolver over him, he discreetly -surrendered. Private Troike was summoned, the rifle and accoutrements -were seized, and the party set out at once for the Lake hotel. But -such are the difficulties of snow shoe travel in this region, that it -was long after dark before they reached their destination. - -The Yellowstone Park Association keeps a solitary watchman at each of -its hotels during winter, and has a telephone line connecting each -with Mammoth Hot Springs. By virtue of this lucky fact, Howell's -capture, though made some sixty miles from the nearest telegraph -station, and in a region where winter travel is impossible except on -snow shoes, was made known to the Superintendent before 9:30 P. M. -that day. By another stroke of good fortune a representative of -_Forest and Stream_ was at that moment present at Mammoth Hot Springs. -He had arrived but two days before and remained a guest of the -Superintendent prior to a tour of the Park, which began two days -later. The news of Howell's capture was at once put on the wire, and -in less that twenty-four hours, _Forest and Stream_ was represented in -Washington with a new and powerful argument for the passage of the -Offenses Bill. The imminent danger of the speedy and entire extinction -of the only remaining herd of buffalo in the country produced the -desired effect in Congress, and on May 7, 1894, the bill became a law. - -It was throughout a most fortunate combination of circumstances that -made this consummation possible. A Superintendent thoroughly devoted -to the care of his important charge, and fearless in the execution of -his duty; a scout who had the nerve to make an arrest full of peril to -himself; the existence of a winter telephone line to the heart of that -inaccessible region; the presence at Mammoth Hot Springs of a -representative of that journal which holds first rank among the -protectors of the Park; and uncommon good, luck in minor details, -caused this important event to cast its influence into the national -councils almost before the echo of the poacher's rifle shots had died -away among the mountains. Howell's act was a misfortune--a grievous -misfortune--to the game interests of the Park; but its immediate -result in legislation will prove a benefit of far greater consequence. - -Howell was brought to Mammoth Hot Springs and was there imprisoned in -the Fort Yellowstone guardhouse, and his case reported to Washington. -As there was no law for his trial and punishment, the Secretary of the -Interior in due time ordered his release. He was accordingly put out -of the Park and forbidden to return without permission. But with his -habitual disregard of authority, he came back during the following -summer and was discovered by the Superintendent in a barber's chair at -Mammoth Hot Springs Hotel. He was promptly arrested and tried under -the new law for violating the orders of the Superintendent in -returning. He was convicted and sentenced to one month's imprisonment -and fifty dollars fine. He thus became the Park Haman--first to be -hanged upon the gallows of his own building. - -Howell appealed the case to the U. S. District Court sitting at -Cheyenne, Wyoming, and was released upon the technical ground that, as -the prohibition against returning to the Park was merely an order from -the Superintendent, and not explicitly authorized by the regulations -of the Secretary of the Interior, the offense did not come within the -purview of the law. This defect in the regulations has since been -remedied and the conviction of Howell, therefore, notwithstanding his -final release, has all the force of precedent. - - - - -PART II.--Descriptive. - - - - -CHAPTER I. - -BOUNDARIES AND TOPOGRAPHY. - - -At the time when the bill creating the Yellowstone Park was before -Congress there had been no detailed survey of that region, and the -boundaries, as specified in the bill, were to some extent random -guesses. The exploring parties of 1870 and 1871 had seen all the more -important points of interest. To include these in the proposed -reservation, the framers of the bill passed two lines due east and -west, one through the junction of the Yellowstone and Gardiner Rivers, -and one through a point ten miles south of the most southerly point of -the Yellowstone Lake; and two lines due north and south, one through a -point ten miles east of the easternmost point of Yellowstone Lake, and -one through a point fifteen miles west of the most westerly point of -Shoshone (then called Madison) Lake. The nearly rectangular area thus -resulting was found to lie mainly in the north-west corner of Wyoming, -with narrow strips, two or three miles wide, overlapping into the -Territories of Montana and Idaho. The mean dimensions of the -Reservation were 61.8 miles by 53.6 miles, giving an area of 3312.5 -square miles. - -By presidential proclamation, dated September 10, 1891, a large area -to the east and south of the Park was set apart as a Forest Reserve, -under the provisions of an Act of March 3, 1891, and was placed in -charge of the Superintendent of the Park. By this action the area -reserved from settlement around the sources of the Yellowstone was -increased to about 5,000 square miles. It should be remembered, -however, that this additional reserve is not a direct creation by Act -of Congress, and it therefore does not stand upon the same substantial -footing as the original Reservation. - -The chief topographical features of the Park are as follows: - - -DRAINAGE AREAS. - -Three great rivers receive the waters of the Yellowstone Park--the -Yellowstone, the Missouri, and the Snake. The first two rivers are on -the Atlantic slope; the third is on the Pacific slope. The areas -drained by them are approximately: - - By the Yellowstone. 1,900 square miles. - By the Missouri, 730 square miles. - By the Snake, 682 square miles. - -The Yellowstone River has its source in the snow drifts of Yount Peak, -twenty-five miles south-east of the Park. It enters the Reservation -six miles west of the south-east corner; crosses it in a direction -somewhat west of north, and leaves it at a point about nineteen miles -east of the north-west corner. Near the center of the Park it flows -through the celebrated lake of the same name, and further north passes -through two remarkable cañons before it leaves the Reservation. Its -principal tributaries within the Park are the Lamar River (commonly -called the East Fork), from the east, and Gardiner River from the -west. The Lamar River rises nearly due east of the outlet of -Yellowstone Lake and flows north-westerly, joining the main stream -near Junction Butte. Its principal tributary is Soda Butte Creek, -which rises just outside the north-east corner of the Park and joins -the Lamar River near the extinct hot spring cone from which it derives -its name. - -Gardiner River is the second largest tributary of the Yellowstone, and -drains the extensive area between the Washburn and Gallatin Mountains. - -The low-water discharge of the Yellowstone River, as measured by the -writer, in 1891, a little below the lake outlet, is 1,598 cubic feet -per second; as measured by the United States Geological Survey, in -1886, 1,525 cubic feet. The discharge at the north boundary of the -Park can not be less than 2,000 cubic feet. - -The Missouri River drainage flows into the Gallatin and Madison forks -of that stream. The Gallatin drains only a small area in the extreme -north-west corner of the Park. The Madison is formed by the junction -of the Gibbon and Firehole Rivers, about twelve miles east of the west -boundary of the Park. The Gibbon takes its rise a few miles west of -the Falls of the Yellowstone, and flows in a south-west direction. The -Firehole rises in Madison Lake, and flows north to its junction with -the Gibbon. Its principal tributaries are the Little Firehole River -and Iron Creek on the west, and Nez Percé Creek on the east. - -The Snake River drains the south-west portion of the Park. It rises -about fifteen miles south of Yellowstone Lake, just outside the Park. -It then takes a northerly circuit into the Park, receiving the waters -of Hart and Lewis Rivers, and leaves the Reservation just north of -Jackson Lake. Its principal tributary is the Lewis River, which drains -Shoshone and Lewis Lakes. Several large streams, Bechler and Falls -Rivers among them, cross the south-west boundary of the Park and join -the main Snake further south. - -The line of separation between this water-shed and those of the -Yellowstone and the Missouri, is the Continental Divide, the irregular -course of which can be readily understood by consulting the map. - -In the entire Park there are about thirty-six named lakes with a total -area of nearly 165 square miles. Of these lakes, twenty-one, with an -area of 143 square miles, are on the Yellowstone slope; eight, with an -area of perhaps two square miles, are on the Missouri slope; and -seven, with an area of about twenty square miles, are on the Snake -River slope. The four principal lakes--Yellowstone, Shoshone, Lewis, -and Hart--are clustered near the Continental Divide at its lowest -point, the first being on the Atlantic slope, and the others on the -Pacific. - -There are upon the various streams of the Park no fewer than -twenty-five interesting water-falls, where the streams descend from -the Park plateau to the lower surrounding country. - - -MOUNTAIN SYSTEM - -As the Yellowstone River is the most important stream in the Park, so -the Absaroka Range, in which it has its source, is the most important -mountain system. It extends north and south along the entire eastern -border. To the south it is prolonged under the name of the Sierra -Shoshone Mountains as far as the Wind River Valley, while north of -Soda Butte Creek it extends to the Great Bend of the Yellowstone under -the name Snowy Range. The various larger summits are remarkably -uniform in elevation. From Index Peak on the north to Yount Peak on -the south, there are more than thirty named mountains with an average -altitude of 10,400 feet. The variation from this mean is slight. The -range, throughout its length, is full of noble views, and, as seen -from across the Yellowstone Lake, is one of the finest exhibitions of -mountain scenery on the continent. - -The next most important range is the Gallatin, situated in the -north-west corner of the Park, at the head of the Gallatin River. It -has about seventeen named peaks, with an average altitude of 9,800 -feet. The highest peak, Electric, is the loftiest mountain in the -Park. - -The Washburn Range, a detached mountain system, originally known as -the "Elephant's Back," is situated between the Grand Cañon of the -Yellowstone and the Gardiner River. It has seven christened summits, -with an average altitude of 9,800 feet. The most conspicuous peak of -the range, as well as the most noted mountain of the Park, is Mt. -Washburn. - -The Red Mountain Range is a small, detached group of mountains between -Hart and Lewis Lakes. Its principal summit, Mt. Sheridan, affords -probably the finest view to be had in that entire region. - -The Teton Range lies mainly outside the Park, its northern spurs -barely touching the southern boundary. It extends north and south -along the west shore of Jackson Lake, and is a very noted range of -mountains. Its highest summit, the Grand Teton, has no competitor for -altitude nearer than Fremont Peak, seventy-five miles distant. - -The Big Game Ridge lies along the south boundary of the Park, and is -the source of the Snake River. It has six named peaks, with an average -altitude of 9,800 feet. - -Besides these various groups of mountains, there are a few detached -peaks worthy of note, which can not be conveniently classified with -any of the principal ranges. - - -PLATEAUS. - -A considerable portion of the Park area is composed of what may be -termed plateaus, elevated tracts of land, not so high as the mountain -ranges, but much higher than the valleys. Ordinarily, these are to be -found along the divides between the larger streams. The more important -are the Pitchstone Plateau, between the Snake River and the head -waters of the Bechler and Fall Rivers, with a mean altitude of 8,500 -feet; Highland Plateau, between the Yellowstone and the Madison -Rivers, altitude 8,300 feet; Mirror Plateau, between the Yellowstone -and the Lamar Rivers, altitude 9,000 feet; Mt. Everts Plateau, between -the Yellowstone and the Gardiner, altitude 7,000 feet; and the Madison -Plateau, west of the Lower Geyser Basin, altitude 8,300 feet. - - -VALLEYS. - -These form an exceedingly important part of the Park topography. The -largest is Junction Valley, including its branches along the -Yellowstone and the Lamar Rivers. It is an extensive, grassy tract, -stretching well back upon the mountain sides, and forming a fine -pasturage for game. For scientific research, its fossil forests and -other features make it an extremely interesting section. - -Hayden Valley is the next in size and importance, and occupies an -important tract along the Yellowstone River, between the Lake and -Falls, mostly on the west side, in the vicinity of Alum Creek. - -The Madison Valley, and its extensions up the Firehole and Gibbon -Rivers, are chiefly noteworthy as being the locality of the three -great geyser regions of the Park. - -The Swan Lake Flats, Willow Park, the Shoshone and Falls River Basins, -are other important examples of typical mountain valleys. - - -ALTITUDES. - -The lowest point in the Park is at the junction of the Yellowstone and -the Gardiner Rivers, 5,360 feet above sea level; the highest is the -summit of Electric Peak, six miles distant, 11,155 feet. To give a -general idea of the altitudes of different points in the Park, -particularly of those which the tourist visits, the following list is -presented:[AT] - - Gardiner, Mont. 5,400 feet. - Mammoth Hot Springs hotel 6,215 " - Glen Creek Bridge above Golden Gate 7,245 " - Indian Creek Bridge 7,275 " - Beaver Lake 7,360 " - Norris Road Junction 7,470 " - Gibbon Meadows 7,315 " - Gibbon and Firehole Rivers, junction of 6,780 " - Lower Geyser Basin (mouth of Nez Percé Creek) 7,125 " - Upper Geyser Basin (near Castle Geyser) 7,300 " - Mouth of Spring Creek 7,600 " - Isa Lake, Continental Divide 8,300 " - Yellowstone Lake 7,741 " - Road at Mud Volcano 7,705 " - Cañon Hotel 7,850 " - Junction Valley near Yancey's 6,150 " - Divide between the Black-tail and Gardiner 6,550 " - -[AT] From profile of road system. For additional elevations, see list -of names in Appendix A. - - -SCENERY. - -The mountain scenery of the Park is not so imposing as that of -Colorado and some other parts of the Rocky Mountain region; but it is -more varied and beautiful. The eye is not wearied with the constant -sight of vast and bare mountain cliffs, but finds relief in attractive -lakes, streams, glades, parks, forests, and every combination of -effects that helps to produce a beautiful landscape. - - - - -CHAPTER II. - -Geology of the Park. - - -Nature seems, from the first, to have designed this region for a -mountain park. In geological chronology it was near the close of the -Cretaceous Period, that the lifting of the great mountain systems of -the West into their present positions was practically finished. In the -formation of these mountains, the general outline of the Yellowstone -Park was already marked out, probably in much more striking features -than at present. A vast rim of mountains, visible now in the Absaroka, -Snowy, Gallatin, Teton, and Snake River Ranges, hemmed in the -extensive area which has since become so famous. Subsequent events -have greatly modified its original form, but the grand outlines at -first determined are still distinctly visible. - -In the Tertiary Period, which was next in order of time after the -Cretaceous, changes of the greatest importance occurred, consisting -principally in the outpouring of enormous masses of volcanic material. -The origin of these lava flows has been traced to a few craters, one -of which was near Mt. Washburn, another in the Red Mountain Range, and -a third near the sources of the Lamar River. Mt. Washburn has long -been recognized as part of the rim of an ancient volcano. Both it and -Mt. Sheridan, the two mountains which bore the principal part in -working out the present features of that country, still remain the -most prominent peaks from which the modern visitor can contemplate -the work they have performed. - -The outpourings at first consisted of andesitic lavas. They largely -changed the appearance of the mountain ranges and to some extent -filled up the interior basin. The flows were not continuous but were -separated by long intervals of quiet, during which vegetation and the -agencies of erosion were actively at work. - -After the cessation of the andesitic eruptions, a quiescent period of -great length ensued. Then came the period of rhyolitic flows, the -centers of volcanic activity being as before Mts. Washburn and -Sheridan. These flows built up the present Park plateau, and -constitute the great bulk of the rocks which the tourist now sees. - -Following the period of rhyolitic eruptions, orographic agencies were -active in producing extensive faults or displacements, which in -certain localities radically changed the relative positions of the -rocks. - -The last exhibitions of volcanic energy were in the form of basaltic -eruptions. These took place in part through ordinary volcanic craters, -and in part through cracks or seams in the rocks, where they may still -be seen forming extensive dykes. The basalt is of relatively limited -extent, but its striking and picturesque forms wherever it appears -make it more interesting to the tourist than any of the other rocks. - -The great variety of superficial appearances which these volcanic -rocks have assumed makes the Park one of the best laboratories in the -world for their study. - -The continuance of these various outpourings doubtless extended into -Quaternary time. Then came the Glacial Epoch, the epoch of -wide-spread ice-carving, which still further modified the surface of -the country. The paths of the ancient glaciers have in several -instances been made out and their transported material may readily be -distinguished. One glacier flowed from the Gallatin Range eastward -across Terrace Mountain, where it joined another moving westwardly -from the Absaroka Range. The united streams continued down the -Gardiner and Yellowstone Valleys, in which vast masses of drift still -mark their ancient route. - -Glacial action and the common agents of denudation have given the Park -country its present general aspect. These later modifications have -indeed been extensive, and the great variety of form now seen in the -valleys, cañons and hills is the result of their combined action. The -Yellowstone Cañon is a marked example of erosion on a large scale. A -direct result of its formation was the partial draining of Yellowstone -Lake, which had previously existed at a much higher level than now, -and spread over the entire area of the present Hayden Valley. - -Since the cessation of the basaltic lava flows there seem to have been -no further lava outpourings in this region. The old volcanoes have -been long extinct and their craters have been modified almost beyond -recognition. But evidences of the power which once worked beneath them -are still abundant, although no longer on so imposing a scale. It is -the hot springs and geysers still in existence which partly render -this region so widely celebrated. That this thermal action originates -mainly in the same source of energy which once poured out the vast -fields of lava, there is no reason to doubt. Many plausible -explanations are advanced to account for the existence of subterranean -heat, but whatever may be its real origin it is doubtless the same for -both classes of phenomena. - -The action which is now observable has continued in an ever-decreasing -degree since the close of the lava period. Over vast tracts of the -Park plateau, the rocks are entirely decomposed to unknown depths by -the ascending superheated vapors. Some idea of the extent of this -action may be obtained at the Grand Cañon, which has cut its way a -thousand feet downward into the decomposed volcanic rock without yet -reaching its bottom. The infinite variety of chemic products resulting -from this decomposition has given the Cañon its wonderful coloration. - -The same condition largely prevails over the Park plateau. Where now -are dense forests and no superficial evidence of unusual conditions, -there will frequently be found, by digging beneath the surface, the -familiar proof that thermal activity once prevailed there. In -constructing the tourist route from the Upper Geyser Basin to the -Yellowstone Lake, where for nearly the whole distance there is a -complete absence of hot springs, the evidences of former volcanic -activity were found to be abundant. - -Facts like these clearly demonstrate that, from a geologic standpoint, -thermal activity in the Park is gradually becoming extinct; and many -persons, taking alarm at this evidence, imagine that the unique -phenomena of the Yellowstone are of an evanescent character, and that -the time is not far remote when they will be known only as matters of -history. There is, however, no occasion for such misgiving. The -present condition is the result of processes that run back probably -for millions of years; certainly for periods of time compared with -which recorded history is insignificant. The same rate of progress -would produce no perceptible change in the lifetime of an individual. - -Some who have visited the geyser regions more than once assert that, -after an interval of several years, they observe a marked diminution -in thermal activity. But this is probably because a second visit -ordinarily makes a less vivid impression than a first. The weight of -reliable evidence is certainly the other way. Mr. David E. Folsom, -leader of the Expedition of 1869, made a tour of the Park during the -present season of 1895. He says: "I had a very vivid recollection of -all I saw twenty-six years ago, and I note no important change." -Professor Arnold Hague, probably the best living authority upon the -scientific features of the Park, has compared the hot springs and -geysers by means of authentic records covering intervals of several -years, and he declares that he finds "no diminution in the intensity -of action or in the amount of discharge from the springs and geysers, -since they have been subject to careful observation." While it is -certain that springs are constantly becoming inactive, it is no less -certain that others replace them, and it may be confidently assumed -that the progress toward ultimate extinction will be inappreciable in -our time or for many generations to come. - -The distribution of thermal springs over the surface of the earth is -probably more general than is commonly supposed. Only one extensive -area is practically without them, and that is the Continent of -Australia. Africa, also, has very few. But in other parts of the -globe they are found almost without number, ranging from the Equator -to the Arctic Circle, and from sea-level to the lofty table lands of -Thibet. - -The three localities, however, in which they abound in such numbers -and magnitude as to attract marked attention are, in the order of -their discovery, Iceland, New Zealand, and the Yellowstone National -Park. In extent, variety, and magnitude of accompanying phenomena, and -in geologic age, the above order is reversed. Iceland has probably the -most famous geyser in the world, principally because it was for a long -time the only known geyser, and consequently received a great deal of -scientific attention; but judging from published descriptions it is -clearly inferior to several now known in the Firehole Geyser Basin. - -Three notable features of similarity in these geyser regions are the -presence of volcanic rocks of remote or recent origin; proximity to -the earth's surface of active sources of subterranean heat; and the -presence of a great number of lakes. In all three cases, lava, heat -and water are the characteristic geologic and physical accompaniments -of those particular phenomena which will now be described more in -detail. - - - - -CHAPTER III. - -GEYSERS. - - -The hot springs of the Yellowstone National Park may be roughly -divided into two classes, eruptive and non-eruptive. To the first the -term _geyser_ is applied, while the term _hot springs_ is restricted -to the second. These two classes pass into each other by insensible -gradations and the line of demarcation it is not possible to draw. The -following description will pertain only to those examples about which -there is no doubt, and which may be taken as types of their class. - -A geyser may be defined as a periodically eruptive hot spring. The -name, as might be expected, is of Icelandic origin, and comes from the -verb _geysa_, _to gush_. The general characteristics of a true geyser, -as illustrated by the most perfect example known, Old Faithful in the -Yellowstone Park, are the following: - -(1.) There is an irregular tube descending from the earth's surface to -some interior source of heat. - -(2.) The mouth of this tube may be either a self-built mound or cone -(as in the example), or simply an open pool. - -(3.) Into this tube meteoric water finds its way and is subjected to -the action of heat. - -(4.) The result is an eruption and expulsion of the water from the -tube with more or less violence. - -(5.) The eruption is generally preceded by slight preliminary -upheavals leading gradually to the final outburst. - -(6.) After cessation of the eruption there is usually a considerable -escape of steam. - -(7.) A quiescent period, generally of indeterminate duration, follows -during which the conditions necessary for an eruption are reproduced. - -Geyser phenomena have attracted a great deal of scientific attention, -and many theories have been advanced to explain them. Passing over for -the present the various less important views, attention will first be -given to Bunsen's theory, because it is, upon the whole, the most -satisfactory explanation yet advanced. This theory was a direct -deduction from observations upon the Great Geyser of Iceland, and has -been experimentally illustrated by artificial examples. - -The fundamental principle upon which it is based is the well known -fact that the temperature of the boiling point of water varies with -the pressure to which the water is subjected. At the sea level, under -the pressure of one atmosphere (fifteen pounds to the square inch), -the boiling point is about 212 degrees Fahrenheit. Under a pressure of -two atmospheres it is 250 degrees; of three, 275 degrees; of four, 293 -degrees, and so on. At an altitude like that of the Park plateau, -where the atmospheric pressure is much less than at sea level, the -normal boiling point is about 198 degrees, but the law of variation -due to pressure conditions applies exactly as in lower altitudes. - -If water, subjected to great pressure, be heated to a temperature -considerably above that of its normal boiling point, and if then the -pressure be suddenly relieved, it will almost instantaneously be -converted into steam; a fact which always operates to enhance the -danger from the explosion of steam boilers. Applying this principle -to the case of an ordinary geyser, it will readily be seen that in the -long irregular tube descending to great depths there are present the -necessary conditions for subjecting the water to great pressure. At -the surface the pressure is that of the weight of the atmosphere -corresponding to the altitude; at a certain depth below (33 feet at -the sea level, but less at higher altitudes) it is twice as great; at -double this depth three times as great, and so on. - -Suppose, now, that there is an interior heat at some point along the -geyser tube well below the surface. The boiling point of water in the -vicinity of the heat supply will be higher than at the surface in -definite relation to its distance down. If the tube be of large -diameter and the circulation quite free, the water will never reach -this point, for it will rise nearer the top, where the boiling point -is lower and will pass off in steam. The spring will thus be simply a -boiling or quiescent spring. But if the tube be comparatively small -and if the circulation be in any way impeded, the temperature at the -source of heat will rise until it reaches a boiling point -corresponding to its depth. Steam will result, and will rise through -the water, gradually increasing the temperature in the upper portions -of the tube. After a time the water throughout the entire tube becomes -heated nearly to the boiling point and can no longer condense the -steam rising from below; which then rapidly accumulates until its -expansive power is great enough to lift the column above and project -some of the water from the basin or cone. This lessens the weight of -the column and relieves the pressure at every point. In places where -the water had been just below the boiling point, it is now above, and -more steam is rapidly produced. This throws out more water, still -further lightens the column, and causes the generation of more steam, -until finally the whole contents of the tube are ejected with terrific -violence. - -From this explanation it is apparent that any thing which impedes the -circulation of water in the geyser tube will expedite the eruption. -The well-known effect of "soaping geysers" may thus be accounted for. -As oil thrown upon waves gives a viscosity to the surface, which -greatly moderates their violence, so does the addition of soap or lye -make the water of the geyser tube less free to circulate, and thus -hasten the conditions precedent to an eruption. - -The apparently contrary process of violently agitating the water of -the geyser, as by stirring it with a stick, sometimes produces the -same effect; but this results from the sudden forcing upward of masses -of superheated water, instead of allowing them to rise and gradually -cool. - -That Bunsen's theory really explains the phenomena of geyser action -there can be little doubt. It is true that in no single geyser does -one find a perfect example of the theory. But it must be remembered -that typical conditions probably never exist. The point of application -of heat; the mode of application, whether from the heated surface of -rocks or from superheated steam issuing into the tube; the diameter -and regularity of the tube; the point of inflow of the cold water; are -all matters which influence the eruption and determine its character. -In the endless variety of conditions in nature one need not wonder at -the varying results. He should rather wonder that in a single instance -nature has produced a combination of such perfection as is found in -Old Faithful, which, for thousands of years has performed its duty -with the regularity of clock work. - -There are various other theories, each with some particular merit, -which may be briefly referred to. Sir George Mackenzie, who visited -Iceland in 1810-11, thought the geyser tube at some point beneath the -surface curved to one side and then upward, communicating with a -chamber in the immediate vicinity of the source of heat. The water in -this chamber becomes heated above the boiling point, and, expanding, -forces the water from the chamber into the tube until the chamber is -finally emptied to the level of the mouth of the tube. Any further -expulsion of water lessens the weight of the column of water above. -Bunsen's theory comes into play, and with the accumulated pressure of -the steam in the chamber, produces a violent eruption. - -Prof. Comstock, who visited the Park in 1873, thought that there were -two chambers, the lower being in contact with the source of heat, and -the upper acting as a sort of trap in the geyser tube. After a -sufficient force of steam has accumulated in the lower chamber, it -ejects the contents of the chamber above. - -S. Baring-Gould, who visited Iceland in 1863, observed that if a tube -be bent into two arms of unequal length, the shorter of which is -closed, and if the tube be filled with water and the shorter arm then -heated, all the characteristic phenomena of geyser action result, the -water being finally ejected, with explosive violence from the longer -tube. - -Now, it is probable that in nature each of these theories may find -illustration, but it must still be acknowledged that in all cases -Bunsen's theory is the partial explanation, and in many the only -adequate one. - -The most superficial examination of the geysers in the Park will -disclose two widely different characteristics as regards their -external appearance and mode of eruption. On this basis they may be -divided into two classes--the fountain geysers and the cone geysers. - -In the fountain geyser there is no cone or mound, but in its place a -considerable pool which in intervals of rest bears perfect resemblance -to the larger quiescent springs. The eruption generally consists of a -succession of prodigious impulses by which vast quantities of water -are thrown up one after another. There is ordinarily no continuous -jet. To geysers of this class, Mackenzie's and Comstock's theories -would seem to find closer application than to any others. Noted -examples are the Fountain, the Great Fountain, the Grand and the -Giantess Geysers. - -The cone geysers, on the other hand, have no pool about the crater, -and water is not generally visible in the tube. There is always a -self-built cone or mound of greater or less prominence, ranging from a -broad gently-sloping mound, like that of Old Faithful, to a huge cone -like that of the Castle. The eruptions from these geysers usually take -the form of a continuous jet, and are more in accordance with the -theory of Bunsen. Prominent examples are the Giant, the Castle, Old -Faithful, the Lone Star, and the Union. - -[Illustration: _Terry Engr. Co._ - - _U. S. Geological Survey of the Territories._ - -Cone of the Giant Geyser.] - -[Illustration: _Terry Engr. Co._ - - _First sketch ever made._[AU]--_Trumbull._ - -Cone of Giant Geyser.] - -[AU] This sketch and a similar one of the Castle Geyser cone and two -of the Yellowstone Falls are the _very first_ ever made of these -objects. They were made in 1870 by Walter Trumbull, a member of the -Washburn Party, and by Private Charles Moore, one of the escort under -Lieutenant Doane. Moore was a man of excellent education and -considerable culture, and it was a matter of comment among the members -of the Expedition that he should be content with the condition of a -private soldier. His quaint sketches of the Falls forcibly remind one -of the original picture of Niagara made by Father Hennepin in 1697. - -An interesting and singular fact pertaining to this region is that in -most cases the springs and geysers have no underground connection with -each other. Water in contiguous pools stands at different levels, and -powerful geysers play with no apparent effect upon others near by. - -It is another interesting question to know whence comes the water for -these geysers and hot springs. Into the hidden caverns of "Old -Faithful" flow nearly a million of gallons per hour. This is a large -stream, but it is a mere trifle compared with the entire outflow of -hot water throughout the Park. The subterranean passages by which the -necessary supply is furnished to all these thousands of springs, -certainly constitute the most intricate and extensive system of -water-works of which there is any knowledge. - -Not least wonderful of the features of the great geysers are the -marvelous formations which surround them, more exquisitely beautiful -than any production of art. They are really much handsomer than those -to be found around the ordinary quiescent springs. The falling or the -dashing of the hot water seems to be in some way essential to the -finest results. To say that these rocky projections simulate -cauliflower, sponge, fleeces of wool, flowers or bead-work, conveys -but a feeble hint of their marvelous beauty. It is indeed a most -interesting fact that nature here produces in stone, by the almost -mechanical process of deposition from cooling water, the identical -forms elsewhere produced by the very different processes of animal and -vegetable life. - -[Illustration: - - _Terry Engr. Co._ _U. S. Geological Survey of the Territories._ - -Specimens of Geyserite.] - -These formations are all silica and are of flinty hardness. Bunsen, -and Prof. Le Conte following him, assert it to be a rule that the -presence of silica in the water is essential to the development of a -geyser. In one sense this is true, and in another it is not. Should -the heated waters find a ready-made tube, like a fissure in solid -rock, this would serve for a geyser tube as well as any other. The -Monarch Geyser, in Norris Geyser Basin, seems to have originated in -this way. But in the general case, geyser tubes are built up, not -found ready made. In such cases silica is an indispensable ingredient -of the water. A calcareous deposit, like that at Mammoth Hot Springs, -would lack strength to resist the violent strain of an eruption. So it -is found to be a fact that silica is the chief mineral ingredient in -the water of all important geysers. - - - - -CHAPTER IV. - -HOT SPRINGS. - - -Under this general head will be included all thermal phenomena of the -Park, except the geysers. The term will cover the quiescent springs, -the boiling springs, the mud springs, or "paint pots," and the steam -vents and fumaroles. - -The quiescent spring seems to stand at the opposite pole from the -geyser. The conditions are such that the water nowhere reaches a -temperature sensibly above the boiling point. The surface therefore -steams quietly away, unruffled except by the passing breeze. - -The great attraction of these springs is in the inimitable coloring of -the water. It is not simply the beautiful green or blue of great -depths of clear water. In no ordinary pool can one find all the colors -of the spectrum, flitting about, as though seen through a revolving -prism. Sometimes there is an iridescent effect similar to that of a -film of oil upon water; but there is no oil here. There are doubtless -many contributing causes that produce these remarkable effects. There -is first a great depth of clear water which always presents a -beautiful appearance. Then there are the mineral deposits on the sides -of the crater, producing indefinite reflection, the effects of which -are multiplied by the refractive power of the water. The mineral -ingredients dissolved or suspended in the water doubtless add to the -effect. - -The hot springs on the Gardiner River are wholly different in -character from those in any other part of the Park. The water of these -springs holds carbonate of lime in solution while most of the others -contain silica. To this fact must be attributed the peculiar character -of the formations at Mammoth Hot Springs. Wherever the deposits of -springs are calcareous, the character of the formations is the same, -and generally different from those produced by the deposit of silica. -They rise in terraces one above another, and mold for themselves -overhanging bowls of transcendent beauty in form and color. In the -tints displayed by the water, however, these springs are not unlike -others in the Park. - -[Illustration: - - _Terry Engr. Co._ _Haynes, Photo., St. Paul._ - -Cleopatra Terrace.] - -The rims about the quiescent springs are often very beautiful, and the -observer is astonished to see how they stand up above the general -surface of the ground so evenly built that the water has hardly a -choice of route in flowing away. Tyndall, however, makes this -puzzling phenomenon clear. He says: - -"Imagine the case of a simple thermal siliceous spring, whose waters -trickle down a gentle incline; the water thus exposed evaporates -speedily, and silica is deposited. This deposit gradually elevates the -side over which the water passes, until finally the latter has to take -another course. The same takes place here; the ground is elevated as -before, and the spring has to move forward. Thus it is compelled to -travel round and round, discharging its silica and deepening the shaft -in which it dwells, until finally, in the course of ages, the simple -spring has produced that wonderful apparatus which has so long puzzled -and astonished both the traveler and the philosopher." - -The boiling spring is intermediate between the quiescent spring and -the geyser. The circulation is sufficiently free to prevent a great -rise of temperature in the lower depths of the tube, and nothing more -than a surface ebullition, often extremely violent, results. These -springs are generally objects of secondary interest. They are simply -enormous caldrons; any kettle placed over a brisk fire simulates their -action on a small scale. - -The mud springs, or Paint Pots, as they are now always called, are -extremely curious phenomena. They are caused by the rising of steam -through considerable depths of earthy material. The water is just -sufficient in quantity to keep the material in a plastic condition, -and the steam operates upon it precisely as it does upon a kettle of -thick mush. Generally there are various mineral ingredients, mostly -oxides of iron, which impart different colors to different parts of -the group. As the steam puffs up here and there from the thick mass, -it forms the mud into a variety of imitative figures, prominent among -which is that of the lily. These figures immediately sink back into -the general mass, only to be formed anew by other puffs of steam. The -material is so fine as to be almost impalpable between the fingers. -Lieutenant Doane, however, justly observes that "mortar might well be -good after being constantly worked for perhaps ten thousand years." - -Other phenomena very common throughout the Park are steam vents or -fumaroles in which there is no water or only a very small quantity. -They are not ordinarily of much popular interest, although there are a -few remarkable examples. Among these may be mentioned the Black -Growler in the Norris Geyser Basin, and Steamboat Spring on the east -shore of the Yellowstone Lake. - -The hot spring areas of the Park are both numerous and extensive. They -abound throughout the valleys of the Yellowstone, the Madison, and the -Snake Rivers, and the number of individual springs is several -thousand. - - - - -CHAPTER V. - -FOSSIL FORESTS OF THE YELLOWSTONE. - - -A region of great popular and scientific interest in the Yellowstone -Park, although as yet hardly known to the tourist, owing to the -incomplete condition of the road system, is that of the Fossil Forests -in the north-east corner of the Park. The facts which have been -brought to light concerning the origin of these forests are worthy of -particular consideration. - -The trees are found to occur in different planes or horizons of -growth, one above another, until the whole series represents a -thickness of many hundreds, and possibly thousands, of feet. Going -back to the first of these growths, it is found to have been destroyed -by an outpouring of volcanic material, which partially or wholly -submerged it. After the flow had ceased, the ordinary atmospheric and -aqueous agencies began work, eroding the surface in some places and -depositing the products of erosion in others, while vegetation rapidly -covered the newly-formed soil. A subsequent flow destroyed this second -growth and gave a new horizon, on which the same process was repeated. -This continued until there were at least nine, and probably twelve, of -these consecutive growths. - -[Illustration: - - _Terry Engr. Co._ _U. S. Geological Survey of the Territories._ - -Section of Amethyst Mountains.] - -The lava flows in this particular section do not seem to have been -characterized by great heat. They were composed of volcanic -agglomerate, in which there was a large admixture of mud and water, -with sufficient heat to destroy life, but not to char or consume its -products. The percolation of siliceous waters gradually turned the -arboreal vegetation into stone by the process of substitution, and -thus preserved in these silent monuments a record of the events which -once transpired there. When the last of the eruptions had ceased, -there existed in this locality a vast depth of volcanic _ejectamenta_, -composed of many layers, on each of which was standing, buried in the -layer next above, the trunks of extinct forest growths. - -[Illustration: - - _Terry Engr. Co._ _Haynes, Photo., St. Paul._ - -Petrified Trees near Yancey's.] - -After the cessation of volcanic activity, the eroding agencies of the -Quaternary Period carved out the valley of the Lamar River through -these accumulated flows, and laid bare the remains of their vegetable -growths. To-day the tourist may see upon the slopes of Specimen Ridge, -side by side, the living and the dead, the little conifers of present -growth and the gigantic trunks of unknown species which flourished -there eons ago. - -Some of the petrifactions are very perfect. Roots, bark, parts showing -incipient decay, worm holes, leaves--all are preserved with absolute -fidelity. The rings of annual growth may be counted, and these -indicate for the larger trees an age of not less than five hundred -years. Some of the stumps are fully ten feet in diameter. Here and -there the ponderous roots stand imbedded in the rock face of the -cliff, where erosion has not yet undermined them. In one case, a large -tree that had fallen before petrifaction lies partly exposed, both -ends being still imbedded in the rock. Some hollow trees show -interiors beautifully lined with holocrystalline quartz. - -How long it took each growth to reach maturity; how long it flourished -afterward before destruction; and how long the several lava flows -suspended vegetable growth; are matters largely conjectural. But at -the very lowest estimate the time represented by these various -accumulations can not be less than five thousand years. - -That these early trees were of a different species from those which -now flourish there, need not excite surprise, for climatic and other -conditions are wholly changed. But an equal difference seems also to -have prevailed between the successive growths, the trees of which were -not only unlike each other, but nearly all were of species hitherto -unknown to science. Fortunately the rare perfection of some of the -specimens, particularly of the leaves and bark, have greatly -simplified their classification, and have given valuable clues to -their geologic age. - -The products of these petrifactions in time strewed the surface of the -ground with such an abundance of specimens as to give the locality its -present name. Most of the lighter specimens, and some of the heavier, -have been carried away. - -Besides the general interest of these old forests to the casual -observer, they are of great value to science, for probably in no other -part of the globe can a similar chapter of its history be found more -clearly recorded. - - - - -CHAPTER VI. - -FAUNA OF THE YELLOWSTONE. - - -The universal curiosity of people to see what are popularly called -wild animals, especially those larger species which never frequent the -precincts of civilization, is a fact of which it is not easy to give a -philosophical explanation. In this country the rapid disappearance, -amounting almost to annihilation, of the large game is looked upon as -a great misfortune; and in later years there has arisen a fixed -purpose that protection shall be secured for the surviving remnants of -those species which once with the red man held possession of the -continent. The statutes of nearly every state give evidence of the -universality of this sentiment. - -As a means of accomplishing such a purpose, no institution promises to -be more effectual than the Yellowstone Park. It ought, in this -respect, to be a complete realization of Catlin's dream. Its -importance as a game preserve was recognized in the Act of Dedication, -and has become more and more pronounced as acquaintance with it has -increased. - -The Park is fortunately better adapted for this purpose than any other -tract of similar extent in America. It offers very little to tempt the -cupidity of man. Its mineral wealth is buried so deeply under the lava -that no miner will ever reach it. Its altitude and climate unfit it -for agriculture. Its forests, though excellent for shade, are of -little value for lumber. But as a home for the native species of the -continent, it possesses unrivaled advantages. These are admirably -summed up in the following paragraph from the pen of Prof. Hague: - -[Illustration: - - _Terry Engr. Co._ _Haynes, Photo., St. Paul._ - -Park Elk.] - -"The broad expanse of forest incloses sequestered nooks, and enticing -grassy parks, with absolute seclusion in mountain recesses admirably -adapted for the homes of wild animals. It is the great diversity of -its physical features, offering within a restricted area. all the -requirements for animal life, which fits it for the home of big game. -Abundant food supply, shelter from wind and weather in winter, cool -resorts on the uplands in summer, favorable localities for breeding -purposes and the rearing of young, all are found here. The Park -supplies what is really needed--a zoological reservation where big -game may roam unmolested by the intrusion of man, rather than a -zoological garden inclosed by fences, and the game fed or sustained -more or less by artificial methods."[AV] - -[AV] "The Yellowstone National Park as a Game Preserve." See Appendix -E. - -[Illustration: - - _Terry Engr. Co._ _Haynes, Photo., St. Paul._ - -Park Buffalo.] - -It is a matter of profound regret that the many years of lax -administration in the Park to a great degree nullified its purposes as -a game preserve. Killing of wild animals was not absolutely prohibited -until 1883, and the restricted license previously in force was -shamefully abused. Some of the larger species were greatly reduced in -numbers, while in a few instances they were practically exterminated. -In later years, the elk, antelope, deer, bear and beaver, have rapidly -regained their former numbers, and there is no reason to apprehend -their extinction. There are now no fewer than 30,000 elk in the Park. -For the buffalo, mountain sheep, and a few other varieties, the -prospect is good, though not so flattering. The number of buffalo does -not probably exceed two hundred, and the possibility of their early -extinction has led the Smithsonian Institution to allot a sum of money -for the construction of a large inclosure in the Park, where at least -a portion of the herd can be kept and be thus more carefully -protected. Of the moose, mountain lion, wolverine, lynx, wild cat, -marten, and otter the perpetuation is more doubtful. They were too -much reduced in numbers during the game slaughtering era. The smaller -species, such as porcupines, foxes, gophers, squirrels, woodchucks, -and the like, flourish in great numbers. - -The tourist often feels a keen disappointment in passing through the -Park in that he does not see more game, and he not infrequently -expresses positive doubts of its existence. He should remember, -however, that it is the nature of wild game to shun the haunts of man. -If he will remain for some time in the Park and will frequent those -regions remote from the tourists routes he will see game in plenty. In -one important instance he rarely goes away disappointed. Bruin -generally accommodates him. The fine instincts of that intelligent -brute have shown him that it is much easier to get a living from the -refuse about the hotels than to forage for it in the wilds of -parsimonious nature. Nightfall, therefore, always brings him about to -the great delight of the game-seeking tourist. The incidents of each -season to which these bears unwittingly give rise are among the -amusing features of tourist life in that region. - -The herbivorous game generally seek the seclusion of the hills in -summer, but the deep snows of winter will not permit them to remain -there. At that season they descend to the valleys, of which the most -important are the Hayden, the Junction, and the Pelican Valleys, and -those about the headwaters of the Snake River. The preservation of -these tracts as a free winter pasturage is absolutely essential to the -perpetuity of game in the Yellowstone Park. - -Although an ornithologist, in passing through the Park, would report a -list of native birds so extensive as to lead one to think that they -abound in great numbers, there is really a noticeable absence of the -winged tribes. There are birds, of course, but in numbers, variety, -and beauty not to be compared with those in lower altitudes. The only -varieties that would attract attention from any but specialists are -the larger birds, which are often quite plentiful about the lakes. -There are great numbers of pelicans, gulls, fish-hawks, and cranes, -with now and then a wild swan. Eagles are not uncommon, while hawks, -woodpeckers, and robins are frequently seen. The sharp-tailed or -willow grouse is common, and in the fall of the year astonishing -numbers of wild geese and ducks frequent the marshes. There are many -other varieties, conspicuous mainly for their paucity of numbers. - -Piscatorially speaking, the Yellowstone National Park has no rival as -a paradise for the angler. The generous gift of nature and the -admirable work of the United States Fish Commission, supplemented by -the wise protection of the government, leave nothing to be desired by -even the most devout follower of Isaak Walton. - -Not all the streams of the Park were originally stocked with fish. -Where the waters leave the great volcanic plateau and fall to the -underlying formations, the cataracts form impassable barriers to the -ascent of fish. In the lower courses of all the streams there were -native trout, but above the falls, with one exception, there were -none. The exception of the Yellowstone River and Lake is a most -interesting one. Why the Falls of the Yellowstone, the highest and -most impassable of all, should apparently have proven no barrier, is -at first a puzzling question. But the solution is to be found in -Two-Ocean Pass. Across this remarkable divide fish may easily make -their way, and the Yellowstone Lake is unquestionably stocked from -this direction. We thus have an example, probably without parallel, of -an extensive body of water on the Atlantic slope stocked by nature -with fish from the Pacific. - -The trout of the Yellowstone Lake are to some extent infected with a -disease which renders them unfit for eating. In earlier times -particularly, this condition was generally prevalent. But more -recently the disease seems to be disappearing, and in time it will -probably die out altogether. - -In 1889 and 1890, the United States Fish Commission undertook to stock -all the fishless streams in the Park, and planted about 83,000 -yearling trout in the various streams and lakes. The varieties were -Brook, Lake, Loch Leven, and Von Behr trout. Recent examination of -these plants shows that all have taken decisive root, and that within -a few years there will not be a hidden stream or lake in the Park -which will be without its attractions for the sportsman. - - - - -CHAPTER VII. - -FLORA OF THE YELLOWSTONE. - - -The most conspicuous feature of the Park flora is the wide extent of -forest growth which covers some eighty-four per cent of its area. This -is the more noticeable because the surrounding country below the -mountains is practically treeless. The Park forests consist almost -exclusively of pine and fir. The trees are generally tall and slender -and of little use for lumber. They are usually unattractive in -appearance, although in some places among the mountains the spruce and -fir attain a size, form and hue of foliage that are exceedingly -beautiful. - -Among the several species may be noted the following: - -Black pine (_Pinus Murrayana_) so called from the dark hue of its -foliage when seen in dense bodies. - -Red fir (_Pseudotsuga Douglasii_) the largest variety in the Park, -sometimes attaining a diameter of five feet. - -Balsam (_Abies subalpina_). It flourishes near the snow fields and is -the beauty of the forest. - -Spruce (_Pinus Engelmanni_). Like the preceding it flourishes at high -altitudes. It is tall and slender, and is good for lumber. - -Red cedar (_Juniperus virginiana_) is found to a limited extent. - -Poplar or aspen (_Populus tremuloides_) flourishes among the sheltered -foot-hills. - -Dwarf maple is occasionally found. - -Willow thickets abound in great abundance. - -Of these varieties the first is found more abundantly than all the -others combined. In many places it has fallen down and strews the -country to such an extent as to be absolutely impassable on horseback. -There is very little timber of marketable value, and at first thought -it would seem that nature has here lavished her energies in a most -wasteful manner. - -But the great value of these forest growths, is their agency in the -conservation of a water supply for the surrounding country. A glance -at the map will show that the Park is in the midst of a vast arid -region extending far into the surrounding states. The reclamation of -these desert wastes, and their conversion into productive lands, can -be accomplished by irrigation alone, and for this purpose the abundant -streams which descend from the mountains are the indispensable water -supply. - -From the summit of the Grand Teton, the range of vision covers -probably the most remarkable group of river sources upon the earth. To -the north rises the Missouri which flows three thousand miles through -Montana, the Dakotas, Iowa, Nebraska, Kansas and Missouri. To the east -rises the Yellowstone, which, after leaving the Park, flows four -hundred miles through southern and eastern Montana until it unites -with the Missouri. From the eastern foot-hills of the Absaroka and -Shoshone Ranges flow the Wind and Big Horn Rivers through the -extensive valleys of the same names in Wyoming and Montana. -Southwardly, across the Wind River Range rises the Platte which flows -eastward eight hundred miles through Wyoming and Nebraska. From the -west flank of these mountains issue the tributaries of the Green River -(afterward the Colorado) which flows through Wyoming, Utah and Arizona -into the Gulf of California. Finally, interlaced with the sources of -the Yellowstone, and the Missouri, are those of the Snake River which -flows through Wyoming, Idaho and Washington into the Columbia, and -thus reaches the Pacific. - -Not only do these streams rise in this limited area; they derive from -it most of their waters. In the arid lowlands they receive but slight -accessions, and often actually shrink under evaporation. It is -therefore from a relatively small tract of country that the future -water supply must come for portions of ten states in the great arid -belt of the west. - -The conditions which nature has established around this remarkable -fountain-head are admirably adapted for the creation and maintenance -of an unlimited water supply. Over an area of more than 5,000 square -miles there prevails an average altitude of perhaps 7,500 feet; -sufficient to insure enormous annual snowfalls, but not so great as to -prevent their complete melting in summer. But, that they may not melt -too rapidly, the whole region is covered with a thick forest growth -cutting off the intense rays of the summer sun, and covering the -ground with a vegetable mold through which the surface waters filter -but slowly. It is a conservative estimate, based upon observations in -connection with road work in the Park, that these forests prolong the -melting of the snows from four to six weeks. This condition greatly -lessens the liability to sudden floods, and maintains a generous -supply of water far into the summer. - -It has been estimated[AW] that from the Park alone, at low water, -there flows per second 4,000 cubic feet of water. If the time ever -comes when this supply is so far used as to threaten exhaustion, there -will be found in the basin of Yellowstone Lake the most perfect -facilities in the world for the construction of an artificial -reservoir of almost limitless capacity at a comparatively -insignificant cost. A dam could be thrown across the gorge at the -first rapids in the Yellowstone below the Lake, and without injuring -the natural condition of that region, could easily be made to -quadruple the present capacity of the Lake. - -[AW] By Dr. William Hallock, United States Geological Survey. - -The Park with its contiguous area thus presents magnificent -possibilities in the development of the surrounding -country--possibilities of which its founders little dreamed, but which -they unconsciously foreshadowed when they declared that this region -should be forever set apart for the "benefit" as well as for the -"enjoyment" of the people. - -Besides its wealth of trees, the Park produces other interesting -flora. Interspersed among the forests and ornamenting the open glades -are flowers and shrubs in endless profusion. We quote from the -description of one of the early visitors: - -"The choke-cherry, the goose-berry, the buffalo-berry, and black and -red currants, are found along the streams and in moist places of the -middle and lower altitudes. The meadows and hill-sides are spangled -with bright-colored flowers, among which may be noted the -bee-larkspur, the columbine, the harebell, the lupine, the evening -primrose, the aster, the painted cup, the gentian, and various kinds -of euphorbia. It is not uncommon to find daises, buttercups, -forget-me-nots, white-ground phlox, and other field flowers -flourishing in profusion near the melting snow banks during the month -of August. Scarcely a night throughout the year passes without frost, -even though the temperature by day is over 80 F., so that all forms of -vegetation in the Park grow and bloom under somewhat unusual -conditions. Indeed, when ice forms in the water-pails of camping -parties during the night, as often happens, and the petals of the -flowers become crisp with frost; even then the blooms are not harmed, -but thaw out bright and fresh when the hot sun touches them." - -The flowers form a most attractive feature of the Park, and give an -interesting study of the way in which altitude and temperature affect -well known varieties. It is only after a second look that one can -trace in the mountain dandelion, huckleberry, and other species a -resemblance to those of lower altitudes. The extreme shortness of the -season causes vegetation to mature quickly, and before the flush of -spring has disappeared from the leaves the palor of autumn makes its -appearance. - -The mountain grasses are generally abundant in the open country and -even in many places among the forests. The writer just quoted says: - -"The pasturage on the many open spaces is excellent, the mountain -meadows being covered with a mat of nutritious grasses. The -predominating variety is the bunch grass, upon which the horses of -tourists generally subsist, keeping in good condition without the need -of oats. Among other kinds, are the blue joint, fescue, and beard -grasses, as well as Alpine timothy, all of which grow luxuriantly." - -The early autumns tinge the foliage of the willow parks and other -groups of shrubbery with a wealth of color not often seen elsewhere. -Even the frost on the grass upon sharp mornings seems to have a -peculiar beauty, and one may trace terrestrial rainbows in all the -perfection of those set in the sky. - - - - -CHAPTER VIII. - -THE PARK IN WINTER. - - -From the end of September to the end of May the Park is closed to the -tourist; that is, the hotels do not receive guests, and camping is too -precarious to be attempted. It is generally possible, however, to get -into the Park as late as the middle or end of November, very rarely as -late as Christmas. In May, the snowfalls are light, but the -accumulations of the previous winter render traveling out of the -question. With great difficulty the hotel company reaches its nearest -hotels as early as May 16. Some of the roads remain impassable fully a -month later. - -What the fall of snow is in the upper Park has never been determined; -but at Mammoth Hot Springs, altitude 6,200 feet, an average for six -years, from November to April inclusive, is ten feet per year, with a -maximum of fifteen feet and a minimum of five. But on the Park -Plateau, 1,000 to 1,500 feet higher, the fall is certainly much -greater. No doubt its light depth aggregates twenty feet. The weight -of this snow often destroys the railing of bridges and injures the -buildings of the Park. - -The drifts accumulate in phenomenal magnitude. No matter how deep a -ravine may be, the wind will pile the snow up in it until it is level -with the surrounding country. Some of these drifts on the mountain -sides are hundreds of feet deep and never entirely melt away. Even on -the general plateau they last until the middle of July. The Cañon -Hotel is almost buried every winter. The snow actually reaches the -second story windows, and the drift behind the hotel would last -throughout the summer were its melting not facilitated by cutting it -in pieces with shovels. It verily seems that all the conditions of -climate here conspire to make this region one of the snowiest in the -world. - -Of course, general access to the Park under such conditions is wholly -out of the question. Only on snow-shoes is it possible at all. The -hotel company has a watchman at each of its buildings, who drags out a -lonely existence through the two hundred days from November to May. He -can talk over the telephone line with Mammoth Hot Springs, and at long -intervals he receives a call, and perhaps mail, from "Telephone Pete," -who travels the line to keep it in order. In some places, also, small -squads of soldiers are stationed for the winter. - -The art of traveling by snow-shoe is a thoroughly interesting one, -notwithstanding the fact that it is about the most difficult method of -travel known and is rarely resorted to except from sheer necessity. - -The instrument used in the Park for this purpose is called a _ski_ -(pronounced skee). It is a long slender strip of wood--ash, Norway -pine, or hickory--some twelve feet long, four or five inches wide, and -just thick enough to give needed strength. About midway of its length -is a strap through which the toe is slipped and by which the foot -pulls the _ski_ along. The bearing surface of the two _skis_ is about -eight square feet, and holds the weight of the body even in soft snow -without sinking more than a few inches. The bottom surface is -polished smooth and then rubbed with a mixture of tallow and beeswax -to make it free from friction. A pole is an important accompaniment, -aiding to slide the traveler along and steady him on the _skis_. It -also serves as a brake in descending steep hills, the traveler sitting -astride it and bearing the rear end into the snow. - -Down hill work is indeed glorious. No express train can rival the -_ski_ for speed. Its only drawback is danger of accident. On level -country _ski_ traveling is simply walking on a board walk, except that -the pedestrian carries the board with him, and makes and unmakes the -road as fast as he goes. This is hard enough, especially if the snow -is sticky, but when it comes to up hill traveling it is a truly -laborious matter. If the hill is steep, there is danger of losing -one's grip on the snow and sliding backward down the hill. Where the -ascent is too steep to work up by direct forward movement, -"corduroying" is resorted to. The traveler works up sidewise, stepping -up a foot or so with the upper _ski_ and following with the lower. -Generally this sidewise movement is combined with a slight forward -movement, the _skis_ being pointed up hill at as steep an inclination -as they will hold. - -The dress and equipment of the snow-shoe traveler are reduced to a -minimum consistent with protection from the climate. This protection -is really needed only at camping places, for the extraordinary -exertion of traveling keeps the body in a continuous glow of warmth. -Generally, warm woolen underwear, with canvas surface garments to keep -out the wind and to shed snow, are the essential features of the -dress. No overcoat is worn, but a tightly drawn belt takes its place. -The feet are the weak point. "Natural wool socks, then a pair of -Indian moccasins, then a pair of heavy gray army socks, then Arctic -overshoes and leggings," is the description of an equipment actually -used. A broad hat is frequently worn to keep snow out of the neck, and -colored glasses are indispensable to prevent snow blindness. - -Baggage is limited to the strictest necessities, and is so packed that -it will rest uniformly on the back from the shoulders to the hips. - -No eating of snow or drinking of water can be safely indulged in while -_en route_. The traveler must go strictly "dry" between meals. - -[Illustration: - - _Terry Engr. Co._ _Haynes, Photo., St. Paul._ - -Geyser Basins in Winter.] - -Of course traveling of this sort is attended with much peril. A man -must rely wholly on himself. No wagon or saddle is available if he is -injured or sick. Heavy storms may blind him and cause him to lose his -way. In short, a snow-shoe trip through the Park is an undertaking -which requires a vigorous physique, a determined will, and a good fund -of courage. Very few, except those whose duty has required it, have -ever made the attempt. But it is the unanimous verdict of those who -have, that, glorious as the Park is in summer, it is even more -glorious in winter. One can readily understand this to be so. -Evergreen forests never appear to better advantage than when -laden with snow. Ice formations always enhance the beauty of -water-falls.[AX] The rolling open valleys of the Park must be doubly -beautiful when robed in drifted snow. It is a pity that this silvery -landscape should forever remain excluded from the general view. - -[AX] For picture of Grand Cañon in winter, see p. 257. - - - - -CHAPTER IX. - -THE PARK AS A HEALTH RESORT. - - -The climate of the Yellowstone National Park, to any one with a fair -reserve of health, is of the most beneficial kind. The general public -will be interested in the subject only as it relates to that season -when it is possible to visit the Park. - -For the six months beginning with May, the average temperature will -not vary much from the following figures, Fahrenheit: - - Maximum. Minimum. Mean. - - May 77° 25° 49° - June 87° 30° 55° - July 91° 36° 64° - August 90° 36° 61° - September 85° 25° 54° - October 72° 18° 41° - -These temperatures are for Mammoth Hot Springs. For the Park Plateau -they should be diminished by not less than ten degrees. No month of -the year in that region passes without ice-forming frosts. It will be -seen that during June, July, August, and September, the thermometer -makes excursions to the neighborhood of the nineties. This, however, -is only in the middle of the day, and is due to the direct intensity -of the sun's rays. No such heat pervades the general atmosphere. As -soon as the sun is near setting, the temperature falls rapidly. The -night temperature rarely gets above 55° or 60°, and averages scarcely -half as much. The Park is noted for its delightful sleep-giving -qualities, which constitute no small part of its claim as a health -resort. - -Summer in the Park is comparatively short. It may not be strictly true -that "the Park has only three seasons, July, August, and Winter," but -it is true that July and August are the only two months free from the -ordinary characteristics of winter. Snows are frequent in June and -September, while May and October are well on the snowy side of the -year. July and August are the Park summer. The weather is settled. The -air is pure and bracing and not too cold. The long imprisoned -vegetation bursts suddenly into full life and beauty, and in a short -period take place all the changes which require months in lower -altitudes. - -That there is life and health in that summer atmosphere, no one who -has breathed it will deny. At the same time, as has already been -hinted, it is healthful only for those who have some foundation to -build upon. Persons suffering from any form of heart disease or -advanced pulmonary trouble, or those greatly reduced in strength from -any cause, would better stay away. The altitude and sharp air might -prove too severe. - -A matter which has naturally attracted considerable inquiry is the -therapeutic value of the mineral springs of the Park. The -superstitious faith in the efficacy of mineral waters to restore -health, which has characterized mankind in all ages, caused the -physically afflicted to hail the discovery of that region as the -promised fountain of new life. The first explorers to ascend the -Gardiner in 1871 found "numbers of invalids" encamped on its banks, -where the hot waters from Mammoth Hot Springs enter the stream; and it -is recorded that "they were most emphatic in their favorable -expressions in regard to their sanitary effects." - -But this impression was very evanescent. No one now goes to the Park -because of its mineral waters. Nevertheless, it would be wholly -premature to assume that there is no medicinal virtue in them. -Certainly there is in the Park almost every variety of mineral spring; -there are abundant and luxurious waters for bathing; and it is not at -all improbable that the opportunities afforded in this region may yet -be utilized to the great advantage of the public. - -But for health-giving qualities, the Park will never be dependent on -its mineral waters. Its true value lies in other and more potent -influences. The pure water of its snow-fed streams, the exhilarating -atmosphere, the bracing effect of altitude, the wholesome fatigue of -daily rambles over the rough, mountainous country, the fragrant odor -of the pine boughs which every-where pervades the atmosphere, and, -above all, the beautiful and varied scenery, which exalts the mind and -diverts the attention from cares that are too often the real cause of -physical ills--these are the true virtues of the Yellowstone Park as a -health resort. - - - - -CHAPTER X. - -ROADS, HOTELS, TRANSPORTATION. - - -The Park, as is well known, is a very extensive tract of country, and -its various points of interest are widely separated from each other. -The question of ways and means for getting comfortably through it is -an all-important one. If the roads are bad, the hotels ill-kept, or -the transportation uncomfortable, no amount of grandeur of natural -scenery can compensate for these defects. In making a tour of the -Park, the visitor travels not less than 150 miles, sometimes -considerably more, and remains in the Park about one week. He is thus -quite at the mercy of those who have the management and control of -those matters which form the subject of this chapter. - -The road system of the Park, when completed, will comprise a belt -line, connecting the principal centers of interest; approaches, by -which access may be had to the Park from different directions; side -roads, leading from the main route to isolated points of interest; and -trails, by which pack outfits can reach desired points to which -regular roads will never be built. - -The belt line includes Mammoth Hot Springs, Norris Geyser Basin, Lower -Geyser Basin, Upper Geyser Basin, the Yellowstone Lake, the Grand -Cañon, and Junction Valley. A cross-road passes from Norris to the -Grand Cañon. - -The approaches are not all yet selected, but in time there will be at -least one on each side of the Park. - -Trails are important adjuncts of the Park road system. They were long -ago selected and opened up, and they are of great importance in -patroling the Park. They are also much used by those tourists who -remain for a considerable time. - -The mileage of the completed road system will be about as follows: - - Belt line 163 miles. - Approaches 105 " - Side roads 22 " - --- - Total mileage of Park system, exclusive of trails 290 " - -In regard to construction, it is hardly necessary to say that nothing -but the best macadamized roads should be built. The inherent -difficulties of the work are great. The soil in many places is of the -most wretched character. The country is exceedingly rough. The streams -are almost without number. The snow lies on some of the roads until -the middle of June. The mud in the wet season is bad, and the dust of -the dry season is worse. The soft volcanic rocks, which so generally -prevail, make poor road metal. But all these difficulties can be -overcome, if Congress will but provide for a systematic completion of -the project. At present, the annual allowance is too small to promise -any thing like good work, and it will be many years before the hopes -of the government engineers in the matter will be realized. - -The work itself is as attractive as ever falls to the lot of the road -engineer, and it is doubtful if another opportunity exists to develop -a road system which, if properly done, will reflect so much credit -upon the government building it. It is used by visitors from all -lands. It passes through every variety of scenery. It presents every -known problem of road engineering. In short, it combines all the -elements to make it, when complete, one of the noted highways of the -world. - -[Illustration: - - _Terry Engr. Co._ _Gandy._ - -Kingman Pass. (Showing roadway along side of cliff.)] - -It is not impossible that the tourist may yet be carried by boat from -the west shore of the Lake to near the head of the Falls, nor that a -bridge worthy of its surroundings--an arch of the native rock so -studied as to simulate a natural bridge--will span the river near the -Upper Falls and give access to the many splendid views from the right -bank of the Grand Cañon. - -The tourist transportation of the Park is done mostly by coach, -ordinarily with four horses each. Surreys and saddle horses are also -provided when desired. The present system is the result of long -development, and is very satisfactory. With proper roads, it would be -all that could be desired. - -Electric transportation in the Park has often been suggested, but -there are certain grave objections, to be discussed in a later -chapter, which will probably always prevent its introduction. - -[Illustration: - - _Terry Engr. Co._ _Haynes, Photo., St. Paul._ - -Yellowstone Park Coach.] - -When the hotel system of the Park is complete, there will be no fewer -than seven good houses and three lunch stations along the belt line -and approaches. The hotels will be at Mammoth Hot Springs, Norris -Geyser Basin, Lower Geyser Basin, Upper Geyser Basin, Yellowstone -Lake, Grand Cañon, and Junction Valley. The present management of the -hotels has developed into a very efficient system. It is conducted by -a single company whose business headquarters is at Mammoth Hot -Springs, from which point all supplies are shipped. A telegraph line -connects it with points in the interior and with the outside world. -The manager of each hotel knows in advance the number of guests he -must provide for, and the convenience of the tourist is thus carefully -arranged beforehand. With a reasonable extension and development of -the present system, the Park will be admirably equipped in this -respect. - -Besides the regular tourists--those who make the usual trip, stopping -at the hotels--there are hundreds who pass through the Park with -camping outfits. During the months of July and August and early -September, this is by no means an undesirable method. It is less -comfortable, to be sure, than the ordinary method, but at the same -time it is less expensive and more independent. In the latter part of -August, the Park fairly swarms with these camping parties. They give -the authorities plenty to do, for the danger of forest conflagrations -from their camp fires is very great. - - - - -CHAPTER XI. - -ADMINISTRATION OF THE PARK. - - -The administration of the Park is assigned by law to the Secretary of -the Interior, who delegates his authority to a local Superintendent. -By statute, also, the Secretary of the Interior is authorized to call -upon the Secretary of War for such details of troops as may be -necessary to protect the Park. Owing to the failure of Congress to -provide for a civilian Superintendent and police force, since 1886, -the Secretary of the Interior has found it necessary to avail himself -of this second statute, so that the present working of the Park -administration is on this wise: - -An army officer, commanding the troops of the Park, is the -representative of the Secretary of the Interior, and is called the -Acting Superintendent of the Park, on the assumption that the old -_régime_ of civilian Superintendents is only temporarily suspended. -The Superintendent is charged with the enforcement of the rules and -regulations provided for the government of the Park. As to all such -matters, he receives his instructions direct from the Secretary of the -Interior, and he annually submits to that official a report upon the -condition of the Park. For a police force, he has two troops of -cavalry, which he stations throughout the Park as necessity requires. -He has also one civilian scout, paid for from the appropriation for -the army, whose duty it is to patrol the 5,000 square miles, more or -less, in the original reservation and the forest reserve![AY] - -[AY] A portion of the latest appropriation for the Park is authorized -to be expended in the employment of additional scouts. This policy -ought to be continued. - -The specific duties which form the burden of the Superintendent's work -are: - -1. To see that all leases and privileges granted by the Secretary of -the Interior to private parties are strictly observed, and that all -business conducted in the Park is in pursuance of government authority -and in accordance with specific conditions and limitations. - -2. The protection of the Park from vandalism. This is a very important -matter. The pardonable desire to carry off specimens from the -beautiful formations, and the unpardonable craze to cover them with -individual names, would, if unrestrained, soon quite destroy what -nature, through long ages, has so laboriously produced. - -3. The protection of game. All around the Park are hordes of -law-breakers, who let pass no opportunity to destroy the surviving -species. To avert this calamity requires the utmost vigilance of the -Park police. - -4. The preservation of forests. This has always been the most onerous -and trying duty of Park officials. The importance of the forests is so -far-reaching that their destruction would be a public calamity. No -exertion can be considered too great which may prevent it. - -5. The construction of roads and bridges in the Park. - -Other functions which the Superintendent fills are the social duties -of his position, which at certain seasons exact much of his attention. -Official visitors depend upon him entirely for pilotage through the -Park. Private parties bring letters soliciting favors, and on the -whole he finds his time well occupied with these pleasant, though -sometimes onerous, duties. - -The office building of the Superintendent, who is also commanding -officer of Fort Yellowstone, is at Mammoth Hot Springs. A pretty -little garrison is built upon the white formation opposite the hotel, -and in winter, the whole military force, except small detachments in -various places, is gathered at that point. - -At Mammoth Hot Springs are also located the post-office and jail, and -at this point the judicial officers of the Park hold court to try -offenses against the Park statutes and regulations. - - - - -CHAPTER XII. - -A TOUR OF THE PARK. - -_Preliminary._ - - -In the following description there will be mentioned in succinct -outline all the notable features of interest in the Yellowstone -National Park. For more detailed information, the reader is referred -to the list of names in "Appendix A." - -The necessary limit of space forbids any thing like extended -description, even if the inherent difficulties of such a task would -permit. Captain Ludlow has well stated the nature of these -difficulties: - -"The Park scenery, as a whole," he says, "is too grand, its scope too -immense, its details too varied and minute, to admit of adequate -description, save by some great writer, who, with mind and pen equally -trained, can seize upon the salient points, and, with just -discrimination, throw into proper relief the varied features of -mingled grandeur, wonder, and beauty." - -Of the many who have attempted, with pen or pencil, to reproduce the -wonders of the Yellowstone, no one has yet completely satisfied these -important requirements. The writer, for his part, will modestly -decline any such undertaking, and, like that pioneer explorer, Folsom, -will confine his descriptions "to the bare facts." He will, however, -occasionally call to aid those who have seen and written of these -wonders. To the early explorers, in particular, who entered this -region before it became generally known, its strange phenomena -appealed with an imaginative force which the guide-book tourist of -to-day can hardly realize. This may account for the fact that some of -these explorers, who have never, before or since, put pen to paper -with any literary purpose in view, have left in their narratives -strokes of word painting which the most gifted writer would find it -difficult to excel. - -The season selected for the tour will be the early days of July. The -rain and snow and chilly air, not uncommon in June, are gone. The -drought and smoke of August and September are still remote. Even -mosquitoes, so amazingly plentiful at certain seasons (Langford found -them on the very summit of the Grand Teton), have not yet made their -appearance. It is late enough, however, to call forth in their richest -glory the magnificent profusion of flowers which every-where abound in -the Park. The air is at its best, full of life and energy, and so -clear that it confounds distances and gives to objects, though far -away, a distinctness quite unknown in lower altitudes. The skies, as -they appear at this season, surpass the sunny skies of Italy, and the -tourist will find in their empyreal depths a beauty and fascination -forever lacking in the dingy air of civilization. In short, the open -air stage trips through that rich mountain atmosphere will form one of -the most attractive and invigorating features of the tour. - -Without further preliminary, the rôle of guide will now be assumed, -and the tourist will be conducted through the wonders of this -celebrated country, following, over most of the distance, the present -general route. - - - - -CHAPTER XIII. - -A TOUR OF THE PARK. - -_North Boundary to Mammoth Hot Springs._ - - -[Illustration: - - _Terry Engr. Co._ _Gandy._ - -Gardiner River.] - -Distance five miles. The road for most of the way lies in the valley -of the Gardiner. The principal points of interest en route are: - -_The Junction of the Yellowstone and Gardiner Rivers_ which determines -the north boundary of the Park. It lies in the State of Montana, the -state line being two miles further south. The old prospector's route -bore off at this point and kept up the valley of the Yellowstone. -Folsom took this route in 1869; so did the Wasburn party in 1870. -Hayden and Barlow in 1871 kept along the Gardiner and thus saw the -Mammoth Hot Springs. - -_The Gardiner Cañon_ is a precipitous valley of loose gray walls -suggestive of danger from falling rocks. The nests of fish-hawks here -and there crown detached pinnacles. The most striking feature of the -cañon is the river, a typical mountain torrent of such rapid fall over -its rocky bed that it is a continuous succession of foaming cascades. - -Some four miles up the river, at the point where the road leaves it, -the tourist gets his first sight of any indication of subterranean -heat. This is a large stream of hot water, in early times called the -_Boiling River_, issuing from an opening in the rocks and emptying -directly into the river. It is formed of the collected waters of -Mammoth Hot Springs which find their way to this point through -underground passages. It was here that "numbers of invalids" were -encamped when Hayden and Barlow saw the spot in 1871. - -From the last crossing of the Gardiner a winding road, which rises 600 -feet in its length of one mile, brings the tourist to the -world-renowned _Mammoth Hot Springs_, and to the administrative and -business headquarters of the Park. - -[Illustration: - - _Terry Engr. Co._ _U. S. Geological Survey of the Territories._ - -Mammoth Hot Springs. - -Bunsen Peak in the distance.] - -[Illustration: - - _U. S. Geological Survey of the Territories._ - -Pulpit Terrace.] - -First in importance, among the many points of interest accessible from -this locality, are the _Hot Springs Terraces_. These have been built -one upon another until the present active portion constitutes a hill -rising 300 feet above the site of the Mammoth Hot Springs Hotel. The -formation about these springs, it will be remembered, is calcareous, -and to this fact is due its distinctive character, so different from -the silica formations which prevail nearly every-where else in the -Park. The overhanging bowls which these deposits build up are among -the finest specimens of Nature's work in the world, while the water -which fills them is of that peculiar beauty to be found only in -thermal springs. Speaking of this feature Dr. Hayden says: - -"The wonderful transparency of the water surpasses any thing of the -kind I have ever seen in any other portion of the world. The sky, with -the smallest cloud that flits across it, is reflected in its clear -depths, and the ultramarine colors, more vivid than the sea, are -greatly heightened by constant, gentle vibrations. One can look down -into the clear depths and see, with perfect distinctness, the -minutest ornament on the inner sides of the basins; and the exquisite -beauty of the coloring and the variety of forms baffle any attempt to -portray them either with pen or pencil."[AZ] - -[AZ] Page 69 Hayden's Report for 1871. See Appendix E. - -_Cleopatra Spring_, _Jupiter Terrace_, _Pulpit Terrace_, _Minerva -Terrace_, the _Narrow Gauge Terrace_--an incongruous name for a long -fissure spring--the _White Elephant_, another fissure spring, and the -_Orange Geyser_, a very pretty formation, dome-shaped, with a -pulsating spring in the top, are among the most interesting of the -active springs. - -_Liberty Cap_ is the cone of an extinct spring and stands forty-five -feet high and twenty feet through at the base. - -_Bath Lake_ is a warm pool of considerable size, much used in bathing. - -Scattered over the formation in every direction are caves, springs, -steam-vents, handsome deposits, and curiosities without number to -attract and detain the visitor. Many of them, like _Cupid's Cave_, the -_Devil's Kitchen_, and _McCartney's Cave_, are of much interest. In -the last-mentioned cave, or, more properly, crater, an elk fell one -winter when the crater was level full with light snow. His antlers -caught between the sides of the crater, holding him in a suspended -position until he perished. He was found the following spring by Mr. -McCartney. - -Besides the hot springs features, there are other important objects of -interest in this neighborhood. - -[Illustration: - - _Terry Engr. Co._ _Haynes, Photo., St. Paul._ - -Golden Gate.] - -[Illustration: - - _Terry Engr. Co._ _Ingersoll._ - -Osprey Falls.] - -_Lookout Hill_ is a prominent rounded elevation opposite the hotel. -Upon its summit is a block-house, built by Colonel Norris, in 1879, as -a headquarters building for the Superintendent. The awkward and -inconvenient location was selected for its defensible qualities. It -will be remembered that the two previous years, 1877 and 1878, had -witnessed the Nez Percé and Bannock incursions into the Park. - -_The Falls and Cañon of the Middle Gardiner_, distant four miles from -the hotel, are the finest scenery of the kind in the Park, excepting -only the Grand Cañon of the Yellowstone. - -_Bunsen Peak_ is a conspicuous summit located between the Middle and -West Forks of the Gardiner. Its western face terminates in _Cathedral -Rock_, a bold cliff that overhangs the valley of _Glen Creek_. - -_Golden Gate_ and _Kingman Pass_ are names applied to the picturesque -cañon of Glen Creek. It is justly considered one of the gems of the -Park scenery. The skillful engineering feat of carrying the tourist -route through this difficult cañon was performed by Lieutenant D. C. -Kingman, of the Corps of Engineers, U. S. A., in 1884-5. _Rustic -Falls_ is a handsome cataract near the head of the pass. The best view -in this vicinity is to be had from above the pass, looking through it -toward Mt. Everts. - -Besides Bunsen Peak, the tourist will find _Terrace Mountain_, -_Sepulcher Mountain_, and _Electric Peak_ ever ready to satisfy -whatever ambition for mountain climbing he may possess. - -The _East Gardiner Cañon_ affords some fine views, and the falls and -rapids at its head are extremely beautiful. It is through this cañon -that access can most easily be had to the summit of _Mt. Everts_. This -last name is given to a feature which bears almost no resemblance to -the ordinary conception of a mountain. It is simply a broad table-land -extending from the Yellowstone south and terminating in the lofty and -conspicuous bluff just across the Gardiner from Mammoth Hot Springs. -The mountain derives its chief popular interest from the Everts -episode, which is described in the Appendix under "Mt. Everts." It is -also of great interest to scientific inquirers. The view from the -prominent point opposite the forks of the Gardiner is very fine. The -whole Mammoth Hot Springs formation and the group of buildings near -it; the cañons and falls of the three Gardiners; and the array of -mountain peaks across the valley, form a rare and attractive -landscape. - -Mt. Everts and the surrounding country are the home of the Park -antelope and mountain sheep. - -As explained elsewhere, Mammoth Hot Springs is the official and -business headquarters of the Park. The handsome garrison of Fort -Yellowstone is built on the white formation, and with the hotel and -transportation buildings, the post-office, and various other -structures, gives the place a village appearance not to be seen in any -other part of the Park. - - - - -CHAPTER XIV. - -A TOUR OF THE PARK. - -_Mammoth Hot Springs to Norris Geyser Basin._ - - -Distance, twenty miles. The first object of interest, after ascending -the long hill above the Springs (four miles), is the _Gallatin Range_ -of mountains, which bursts into full view upon emerging from Kingman -Pass. Its various peaks--_Joseph_, _Gray_, _Bannock_, _Quadrant_, _the -Dome_, _Mt. Holmes_, and others--still retain the heavy snow drifts of -the previous winter. Some of these peaks remain in sight for thirty -miles along the tourist route. - -_Swan Lake_ (4.5 miles) is a little pond on the right of the road. - -_Willow Park_ (8 miles) comprises the valley of the lower course of -Obsidian Creek. It is a dense growth of willows, and forms an -attractive sight, either in the fresh foliage of spring or in its -autumnal coloring. - -_Apollinaris Spring_ (10 miles) is on the left of the roadway, in a -pine forest. Tourists generally stop and try its water. - -_Obsidian Cliff_ (12 miles) is composed of a kind of volcanic glass, -black as anthracite, which abounds at this point in enormous masses. -The Indians once quarried implements of war and the chase here, and -many fine arrowheads have been picked up by explorers. The building of -the first road along the base of this cliff has some historic -celebrity, owing to the novel method employed. It was done by Colonel -Norris, who thus describes it: - -[Illustration: - - _Terry Engr. Co._ _Haynes, Photo., St. Paul._ - -Obsidian Cliff and Beaver Lake.] - -"Obsidian there rises like basalt in vertical columns many hundreds of -feet high, and countless huge masses had fallen from this utterly -impassable mountain into the hissing hot spring margin of an equally -impassable lake, without either Indian or game trail over the -glistering fragments of Nature's glass, sure to severely lacerate. As -this glass barricade sloped from some 200 or 300 feet high against the -cliff at an angle of some 45° to the lake, we--with the slivered -fragments of timber thrown from the heights--with huge fires, heated -and expanded, and then men, well screened by blankets held by others, -by dashing cold water, suddenly cooled and fractured the large masses. -Then, with huge levers, steel bars, sledge, pick, and shovels, and -severe laceration of at least the hands and faces of every member of -the party, we rolled, slid, crushed, and shoveled one-fourth of a -mile of good wagon road midway along the slope; it being, so far as I -am aware, the only road of native glass upon the continent."[BA] - -[BA] Annual Report Superintendent of the Park, 1878. - -The reader may now be inclined to take issue with our judgment of -Norris' practical turn for road building. He will at least readily -indorse our opinion of the old mountaineer's literary ability. (See -"Norris Peak," Appendix A.) - -_Beaver Lake_ has its outlet opposite the base of Obsidian Cliff. It -is formed by ancient beaver dams, now entirely overgrown with -vegetation. The old dam extends in a sinuous line entirely across the -valley, and, although apparently less than a yard thick, is quite -impervious to water. The lake is a great resort for water fowl later -in the year. - -_Roaring Mountain_ (15.5 miles) is a high hill on the left of the -road, with a powerful steam vent near the summit. Nothing which can -now be heard from the road would suggest the name. - -_Twin Lakes_ (16 miles) are two exquisitely beautiful ponds, if only -seen in a good sunlight and with a tranquil surface. The peculiar -green of the water is perhaps to be seen nowhere except in the -National Park. A most singular feature of these two lakes is that, -although so close together, they never simultaneously exhibit the same -colors. - -_The Frying Pan_ (17.75 miles) is a small basin of geyserite, on the -right of the road, vigorously stewing away in a manner which reminds -one of a kitchen spider in operation. - -After passing Obsidian Cliff evidences of hot spring action constantly -increase, until they reach their climax in the _Norris Geyser Basin_. -There are but few other places in the Park where the odor of sulphur -is so general and offensive as on this portion of the tourist route. - -Norris Geyser Basin is clearly among the more recent volcanic -developments of this region. Its rapid encroachment upon the forest -growth, and the frequent appearance of new springs and the -disappearance of others, indicate its relatively recent origin. -Compared with the Firehole Geyser Basin it is of minor importance; but -coming first to the notice of the tourist it receives a large amount -of attention. It has only one prominent geyser, the _Monarch_, which -throws a column about 100 feet high. The _Constant_ is visible from -the roadway in the bottom of a large tract of geyserite which is -unsafe for pedestrians. It makes up in frequency of action what it -lacks in power. The most noteworthy feature of the basin has received -the appropriate name _Hurricane_. It is a prodigious steam vent whose -violent gusts bear a striking resemblance to the driving blasts of a -tempest. It also discharges a large amount of water. The _Black -Growler_, close by the road side, is a similar phenomenon. - -Among the less important features of this basin may be mentioned the -_Congress_, _Constant_, _Arsenic_, _Echinus_, _Fearless_, _Pearl_, -_Vixen_, _Minute Man_, and _Mew Crater_, all geysers; the _Emerald -Pool_, a quiescent spring; and the _Locomotive_ and _Mud Geyser_, -boiling springs. - -From the Norris Hotel a drive of three miles up the Gibbon River, on -the cross road leading to the Grand Cañon, carries the tourist to -_Virginia Cascade_, a unique and picturesque water-fall in a rocky -cañon of considerable beauty. - -[Illustration: - - _Terry Engr. Co._ _Haynes, Photo., St. Paul._ - -Black Growler.] - -[Illustration: - - _Terry Engr. Co._ _Haynes, Photo., St. Paul._ - -Gibbon Cañon.] - - - - -CHAPTER XV. - -A TOUR OF THE PARK. - -_Norris Geyser Basin to Lower Geyser Basin._ - - -Distance, 20 miles. The road follows the Gibbon River to within three -miles of its mouth, then crosses a point of land to the Firehole, and -ascends the right bank of the latter stream to the Lower Basin. - -_Gibbon Meadows_ (3 miles) is a broad open bottom, sometimes called -Elk Park, just at the head of Gibbon Cañon. - -The _Gibbon Paint Pots_ (4 miles) are on the left of the road, near -the head of the cañon, and one-fourth of a mile away. - -_Monument Geyser Basin_ (4.5 miles) is on the high hill just west of -the upper end of Gibbon Cañon. It is an interesting spot, but rarely -visited owing to its inaccessibility. It was discovered and named by -Col. Norris. - -The _Gibbon Cañon_ (4.5 to 10.5 miles) affords the tourist one of the -pleasantest rides in the Park. The mountains rise boldly from the -river on either side, and present several particularly fine views. The -road lies close to the river's edge, and the stream is an important -adjunct to the scenery. - -_Beryl Spring_ (5 miles) is close to the road on the side opposite the -river. It boils violently and discharges a large amount of water. The -steam from it frequently obscures the roadway. - -The _Soda and Iron Spring_ (7.5 miles), like Apollinaris Spring -already mentioned, is a frequent stopping-place for tourists. - -_Gibbon Falls_ (8 miles) is a water-fall of very irregular outline, -but withal one of much beauty. The road hangs on the side of the cliff -far above it, and affords a lovely view of the forest-covered valley -below. - -About half way between the point where the road leaves the Gibbon -River and that where it touches the Firehole, is the junction of the -belt line with the western approach which enters the Park by way of -Madison Cañon. A beautiful cascade, some distance from the tourist -route, may be found on the Firehole River about a mile above its -mouth. Just as the road (the old Norris Road) commences to descend -from the high plateau between the Gibbon and the Firehole, a glimpse -is had of the _Teton Mountains_. They are among the most striking in -the entire Rocky Mountain Region. For half a century after the -overland journey of the Astorians, they were the chief landmarks in -that trackless wilderness, and long bore the name of Pilot Knobs. They -are distinctly visible from every important peak in the Park, although -they are themselves outside its limits. As seen from the point, at -which we have arrived, they are fifty miles away. They rise -precipitously from the west shore of _Jackson Lake_ (also outside of -the Park) and with it form a scene of grandeur which ought to be -included in the reservation. In 1872, Langford and Stevenson ascended -the Grand Teton, being the first white men ever to reach the -summit.[BB] - -[BB] Some doubt has been expressed in recent years as to the actual -accomplishment of this feat. It probably arose from an erroneous -statement by Doctor Hayden in his report for 1872 that the granite -inclosure was found "on the top of the Grand Teton." As a matter of -fact it was found on a point somewhat lower, and is clearly so stated -by Mr. Langford both in an official report to Dr. Hayden (Hayden, -1872, p. 89) and in his "Ascent of Mt. Hayden" (Scribner's, June, -1873, p. 145). A subsequent explorer, who ascended the mountain to the -site of this principal object of interest, came to the conclusion, -doubtless as a result of the erroneous account given by Hayden, that -this was what Langford and Stevenson called the summit. But the -references above given, and a more detailed and circumstantial account -furnished by Mr. Langford at the writer's request, effectually -demolish this theory. - -[Illustration: - - _Terry Engr. Co._ _Haynes, Photo., St. Paul._ - -The Teton Range. - -The Grand Teton in the center.] - -They were astonished to find, on a point but little lower than the -main summit, a rude shelter of granite slabs evidently put in place by -human hands ages ago. - -_Nez Percé Creek_ (18 miles) is the largest branch of the Firehole, -and is of historic interest from its connection with the Indian -campaign of 1877. It forms the north boundary of the _Lower Geyser -Basin_. Two miles beyond it is the _Fountain Hotel_. - -To attempt any thing like a detailed description of the Firehole -Geyser regions would be intolerable alike to reader and author. Of the -objects of interest, any one of which in other localities would -attract marked attention, there are several thousand. In the present -description, therefore, only the more important features will be -noticed--those notable objects to see which is an indispensable part -of any well ordered tour of the Park. - -The _Fountain Geyser_ is a typical example of the first class of -geysers described in a previous chapter. Its proximity to the hotel -(one-fourth mile) causes it to be much visited. - -_The Mammoth Paint Pots_, a little way east of the Fountain, are -probably the most prominent example of this class of phenomena in the -Park. - -The _Great Fountain Geyser_ lies a mile and a half south-east of the -Fountain. It is the chief wonder of the Lower Basin, and, in some -respects, the most remarkable geyser in the Park. Its formation is -quite unlike that of any other. At first sight the visitor is tempted -to believe that some one has here placed a vast pedestal upon which to -erect a monument. It is a broad, circular table about two feet high, -composed entirely of hard siliceous deposit. In its surface are -numerous pools molded and ornamented in a manner quite unapproached, -at least on so large a scale, in any other part of the Park. In the -center of the pedestal, where the monument ought to stand, is a large -irregular pool of great depth, full of hot water, forming, to all -appearances, a lovely quiescent spring. At times of eruption, the -contents of this spring are hurled bodily upward to a height sometimes -reaching 100 feet. The torrent of water which follows the prodigious -down-pouring upon the face of the pedestal, flows away in all -directions over the white geyserite plain. No visitor to the -Yellowstone can afford to miss the Great Fountain Geyser. - -In this vicinity are several of the handsomest springs in the Park. -One in particular lies just across the hot stream which flows a little -to the south of the Great Fountain. It is shaped like an egg set -endwise in the ground with the upper part of the shell broken off. It -is an exquisite trifle. - -In a small valley, extending to the north-east from the Great -Fountain, are several objects worthy of notice. One of these is an -immense hot lake, by far the largest in the Park. _Steady Geyser_ and -_Young Hopeful_, near the head of the valley, are not remarkable in -this land of geysers. - -The principal attraction of the locality is what has come to be called -the _Firehole_. It is at the extreme upper end of the valley, -difficult to find, and unsatisfactory to visit when the wind agitates -the water surface. It is a large hot spring from the bottom of which, -to all appearances, a light colored flame is constantly issuing, only -to be extinguished in the water before it reaches the surface. At -times it has a distinct ruddy tinge and it always flickers back and -forth like the lambent flame of a torch. When seen under favorable -conditions, the illusion is perfect, and the beholder is sure that he -has at last caught a glimpse of the hidden fires which produce the -weird phenomena of this region. But it is only illusion. Through a -fissure in the rock gas or superheated steam escapes and divides the -water, just as bubbles do on a smaller scale. The reflection from the -surface thus formed accounts for the appearance, which is intensified -by the black background formed by the sides and bottom of the pool. - -The Lower Geyser Basin has an area of thirty square miles. Conspicuous -among its topographical features are the _Twin Buttes_, two prominent -peaks west of the river which dominate the entire basin. A little way -south of these is _Fairy Fall_, a pretty cascade 250 feet high. - -There will be included in this chapter, as more properly belonging to -it than to the next, a description of the _Midway Geyser Basin_. Its -principal interest lies in the stupendous character of its phenomena. - -[Illustration: - - _Terry Engr. Co._ _Haynes, Photo., St. Paul._ - -Excelsior Geyser.] - -_Excelsior Geyser_, as a dynamic agent, has no equal in the Park. It -is really a water volcano, and its eruptions have nothing of the -characteristic display of a genuine geyser. Its crater is a vast -seething cauldron close by the brink of the Firehole River, into -which, in non-eruptive periods even, it pours 4,000 gallons of water -per minute. The shape of the crater is irregular. Its dimensions are -about 330 by 200 feet, and 20 feet deep. It was not known to be a -geyser until 1878, and did not really disclose its true character -until the winter of 1881. During the remainder of that year and 1882, -it gave continuous exhibitions of its power. Its water column was more -than 50 feet in diameter, and at times rose to the enormous height of -250 feet. At such times, it doubled the volume of water in the -Firehole River. Its eruptions were frequently accompanied by the -ejection of large rocks. A second period of activity took place in -1888, since which time it has remained inactive. - -_Prismatic Lake_ is the most perfect spring of its kind in the world. -It rests on the summit of a self-built mound, sloping very gently in -all directions. Down this slope the overflow from the spring descends -in tiny rivulets, every-where interlaced with each other. A map of the -mound resembles a spider web, with the spider (the spring) in the -center. The pool is 250 by 300 feet in size. Over the lake hangs an -ever-present cloud of steam, which itself often bears a crimson tinge, -reflected from the waters below. The steam unfortunately obscures the -surface of the lake, and one involuntarily wishes for a row-boat, in -which to explore its unseen portions. Wherever visible, there is a -varied and wonderful play of colors, which fully justifies the name. - -_Turquoise Spring_ is another large pool, 100 feet in diameter, and -rivals Prismatic Lake in the beauty of its coloring. - -The Midway Geyser Basin contains hundreds of other springs, some of -them very beautiful, but the Basin is mainly noted for the three -features just described. - - - - -CHAPTER XVI. - -A TOUR OF THE PARK. - -_Lower Geyser Basin to Upper Geyser Basin._ - - -Distance, nine miles. Road follows the Firehole River. Midway Geyser -Basin, already described, is passed four miles out. No other object of -interest is met until the visitor actually arrives at the _Upper -Basin_. - -This locality is probably the most popular with the tourist of any in -the Park. Its two rivals, the Grand Cañon and the Yellowstone Lake, -are so unlike it as not to admit of any comparison. It is the home of -the genus _geyser_, as seen in its highest development. There are -fifteen examples of the first magnitude and scores of less important -ones.[BC] The quiescent pools and springs are also numerous and of -great beauty. - -[BC] For list of names of geysers, with heights of eruptions, see -Appendix A, VII. - -The first important feature _en route_ is the _Biscuit Basin_, which -is reached by a side road leading to the west bank of the Firehole -River. It contains a fine geyser and several beautiful springs. The -most interesting are the _Jewell Geyser_ and the _Sapphire Pool_. Near -this locality is the _Mystic Falls_, a fine cascade, on the Little -Firehole River. - -_Artemesia Geyser_ comes next to the attention of the tourist. It has -been known as a geyser only since 1886. It is on the right of the -roadway, at a considerably lower level. - -[Illustration: - - SKETCH MAP - OF THE - UPPER GEYSER BASIN - - _Opp. page 228._ -] - -The _Morning Glory_ is a little further up stream. In this beautiful -object the quiescent pool is at its best. Its exquisite bordering and -the deep cerulean hue of its transparent waters make it, and others -like it, objects of ceaseless admiration. - -The _Fan Geyser_ is close by the Firehole on the east bank, not far -above the Morning Glory. The _Riverside_ is also on the east bank at -the point where the road crosses the river. It is an inconspicuous -object when not in eruption, and one would scarcely suspect it of -being a geyser. It spouts obliquely across the river, and not, like -most geysers, vertically. - -[Illustration: - - _Gandy._ - -Grotto Geyser Cone.] - -Next in order, after crossing the river to the Westbank, is the -_Grotto_, remarkable for its irregular and cavernous crater. A little -further on, close to the river, stands the broken crater of one of -the Park's greatest geysers, the _Giant_. Lieutenant Doane compared -its crater to a "huge shattered horn." - -A few hundred feet further up stream, still close to the river, is the -_Oblong_. Directly across the road, but a short distance away, is the -_Splendid_, well worthy of its name; and near it, sometimes playing -simultaneously, is the _Comet_. - -To the westward from the Firehole, nearly on the divide between it and -Iron Creek, is a lovely spring, called the _Punch-bowl_. Across the -divide in the _Iron Creek_ valley is the _Black Sand Basin_, a unique -but beautiful pool. Near it is another attraction, _Specimen Lake_, so -named from an abundance of specimens of partly petrified wood. The -limit of curiosities in this direction is _Emerald Pool_, which -competent judges pronounce to be the finest quiescent spring in the -Park. - -Returning to the Firehole by a different route, we pass a large spring -or geyser known as the _Three Crater Spring_. Its three craters are -connected by narrow water ways, making one continuous pool, though fed -from three sources. - -A thousand feet to the north, stands the most imposing crater in the -Park, that of the _Castle_ geyser. It is frequently seen in moderate -eruption, but rarely when doing its best. As ordinarily seen, it -throws a column of water only 50 or 60 feet, but at times it plays as -high as 150 or 200 feet. - -[Illustration: - - _Terry Engr. Co._ _Haynes, Photo., St. Paul._ - -Castle Geyser.] - -[Illustration: - - _Terry Engr. Co._ _First sketch ever made._[BD] - -Castle Geyser Cone.] - -[BD] See foot note, page 168. - -Crossing the river to its right bank, nearly opposite the Castle, -there are found within a narrow compass three noted geysers, the -_Sawmill_, _Turban_, and _Grand_. Of these, the last is by far the -finest, and ranks among the very greatest geysers in the world. It was -not seen by the Washburn Party, in 1870, but it seems to have been the -first geyser to welcome to the Upper Basin the Hayden and Barlow -parties in 1871. Captain Barlow says of its eruption:[BE] - -"This grand fountain continued to play for several minutes. When dying -down, I approached to obtain a closer view of the aperture whence had -issued such a powerful stream. A sudden gush of steam drove me away, -following which the water was again impelled upward and upward, far -above the steam, till it seemed to have lost the controlling force of -gravity, and that it would never cease to rise. The roar was like the -sound of a tornado, but there was no apparent effort; a steady stream, -very graceful and perfectly vertical, except as a slight breeze may -have waved it to and fro. Strong and smooth, it continued to ascend -like the stream from a powerful steam fire-engine. We were all lost -in astonishment at the sudden and marvelous spectacle. The proportions -of the fountain were perfect. The enthusiasm of the party was -manifested in shouts of delight. Under the excitement of the moment, -it was estimated to be from three to five hundred feet in height." - -[BE] Page 25, "Reconnaissance of the Yellowstone River."--See Appendix -E. - -Further up the river on the same side and at some distance back, are -the _Lion_, _Lioness_ and the two _Cubs_, an interesting group, -including one notable geyser. Half way up a high mound of geyserite -which covers a large area on the north side of the river, is an -exquisitely beautiful formation called, from its appearance, the -_Sponge_. - -[Illustration: - - _Terry Engr. Co._ _Haynes, Photo., St. Paul._ - -The Bee Hive Geyser.] - -On the top of the mound is another of the great geysers, thought by -the Washburn Party to be the greatest in the world, the _Giantess_. It -belongs to the class of fountain geysers, and when not in action -strongly resembles a quiescent spring. Its eruptions are infrequent -and irregular, but when it does play it is a sight not to be -forgotten. Mr. Langford thus describes the first eruption known to -have been seen by white men:[BF] - -"We were standing on the side of the geyser nearest the sun, the -gleams of which filled the sparkling columns of water and spray with -myriad rainbows, whose arches were constantly changing--dipping and -fluttering hither and thither, and disappearing only to be succeeded -by others, again and again, amid the aqueous column, while the minute -globules, into which the spent jets were diffused when falling, -sparkled like a shower of diamonds, and around every shadow which the -denser clouds of vapor, interrupting the sun's rays, cast upon the -column, could be seen a luminous circle, radiant with all the colors -of the prism, and resembling the halo of glory represented in -paintings as encircling the head of Divinity. All that we had -previously witnessed seemed tame in comparison with the perfect -grandeur and beauty of this display." - -[BF] "The Wonders of the Yellowstone." See Appendix E. - -Between the Giantess and the river is the _Bee Hive_, also one of the -most prominent geysers. The symmetry of its cone is only surpassed by -the regularity of its water column. From an artistic point of view it -is the most perfect geyser in the Park. Its slender jet attains a -great height and is vertical and symmetrical throughout. - -Crossing again to the west bank of the stream and ascending to the -very head of the basin, we come to the last and most important of the -geysers, _Old Faithful_. Any other geyser, any five other geysers, -could be erased from the list better than part with Old Faithful. The -Giant, Giantess, Grand, Splendid, and Excelsior, have more powerful -eruptions. The Bee Hive is more artistic. The Great Fountain has a -more wonderful formation. But Old Faithful partakes in a high degree -of all these characteristics, and, in addition, has the invaluable -quality of uniform periodicity of action. It is in fact the most -perfect of all known geysers. - -To it fell the honor of welcoming civilized man to this region. It was -the first geyser named. It stands at the head of the basin and has -been happily called "The Guardian of the Valley." - -It is located in the center of an oblong mound, 145 by 215 feet at the -base, 20 by 54 feet at the summit, and about 12 feet high. The tube, -which seems to have originated in a fissure in the rock, has an inside -measurement of 2 by 6 feet. - -[Illustration: - - _Terry Engr. Co._ _U. S. Geological Survey of the Territories._ - - Castle Geyser. - - Geyser in action. - - Crater of Old Faithful. - -Upper Geyser Basin.] - -[Illustration: - - _Terry Engr. Co._ _U. S. Geological Survey of the Territories._ - -Old Faithful.] - -The ornamentation about the crater, though limited in extent, is -nowhere surpassed for beauty of form and color. In particular, the -three small pools on the north side of the crater and very close to it -are specimens of the most remarkable handiwork which Nature has -lavished upon this region. A singular fact is that the waters in these -three pools, although so close together as apparently to be subject to -the same conditions, are of different colors. Speaking of these -marvelous appearances, Lieutenant Doane says: [BG] - -"One instinctively touches the hot ledges with his hands, and sounds -with a stick the depths of the cavities in the slope, in utter doubt -of the evidence of his own eyes.... It is the most lovely inanimate -object in existence." - -[BG] Page 29, "Yellowstone Expedition of 1870." See Appendix E. - -In its eruption this geyser is equally fascinating. It always gives -ample warning, and visitors have time to station themselves where the -view will be most perfect. The graceful column rises, at first with -apparent effort, but later with evident ease, to a height of 150 feet. -The noise is simply that of a jet of water from an ordinary hose, only -in intensity corresponding to the greater flow. The steam, when -carried laterally by a gentle breeze, unfurls itself like an enormous -flag from its watery standard. The water is of crystal clearness and -the myriad drops float in the air with all manner of brilliant -effects. To quote Lieutenant Doane again: - -"Rainbows play around the tremendous fountain, the waters of which -fall about the basin in showers of brilliants, and then rush steaming -down the slopes to the river." - -The uniform periodicity of this geyser is its most wonderful and most -useful characteristic. It never fails the tourist. With an average -interval of sixty-five minutes, it varies but little either way. Night -and day, winter and summer, seen or unseen, this "tremendous fountain" -has been playing for untold ages. Only in thousands of years can its -lifetime be reckoned; for the visible work it has wrought, and its -present infinitely slow rate of progress, fairly appall the inquirer -who seeks to learn its real age. - -It is worth while, however, to note the enormous work which this -geyser daily performs. A conservative estimate, based upon an extended -series of observations made in 1878 by the United States Geological -Survey, shows that the outpour for an average eruption is not less -1,500,000 gallons, which gives 33,225,000 gallons per day. This would -supply a city of 300,000 inhabitants. The combination of conditions by -which the supply of heat and water, and the form of tube, are so -perfectly adapted to their work, that even a chronometer is scarcely -more regular in its action, is one of the miracles of nature. - -[Illustration: - - _Terry Engr. Co._ _U. S. Geological Survey of the Territories._ - -Kepler Cascade.] - - - - -CHAPTER XVII. - -A TOUR OF THE PARK. - -_Upper Geyser Basin to the Yellowstone Lake._ - - -Distance, nineteen miles. The route ascends the Firehole River to the -mouth of Spring Creek, which stream it follows to the Continental -Divide. For seven miles it then lies on the Pacific slope, after which -it descends the mountains to the Yellowstone Lake. The drive is one of -the most pleasant in the Park, and the scenery is unconventional and -wild. - -_Kepler Cascade_ (1.25 miles) is a fascinating water-fall. Lieutenant -Doane, who first wrote of it, says:[BH] - -"These pretty little falls, if located on an eastern stream, would be -celebrated in history and song; here, amid objects so grand as to -strain conception and stagger belief, they were passed without a -halt." - -[BH] Page 27, "Yellowstone Expedition of 1870." See Appendix E. - -We counsel the tourist not to so pass them. - -Half a mile up the Firehole, above the mouth of Spring Creek, is the -_Lone Star Geyser_ (4 miles). This geyser is conspicuous chiefly for -its fine cone. It plays frequently to a height of 40 or 50 feet. - -_Madison Lake_, ten miles further up the valley, is the ultimate lake -source of the Madison River. This lake, with possibly the exception of -Red Rock Lake, the source of the Jefferson, is further from the sea by -direct water-course than any other lake on the globe. - -Returning down the Firehole, we enter the mouth of _Spring Creek -Cañon_ (3.5 miles), which the road traverses for a distance of two and -one-half miles. This narrow, winding, rocky cañon, under the shadow of -the Continental Divide, is full of picturesque turns and surprises. - -[Illustration: - - _Terry Engr. Co._ _Haynes, Photo., St. Paul._ - -Lone Star Geyser.] - -The first crossing of the _Continental Divide_ (8.5 miles) is through -a narrow cañon, _Craig Pass_, hemmed in by precipitous cliffs, -inclosing a lily-covered pond, _Isa Lake_, which rests squarely upon -the doubtful ground between the two oceans. - -[Illustration: - - _Terry Engr. Co._ _Haynes, Photo., St. Paul._ - -Shoshone Lake.] - -_Shoshone Point_ (10.5 miles) is in the center of the large -amphitheater-shaped tract which is drained by the branches of _De Lacy -Creek_. It overlooks _Shoshone Lake_ and the broad basin surrounding -it, and gives a second glimpse of the Teton Mountains. - -[Illustration: - - _Terry Engr. Co._ - -Isa Lake and Craig Pass.] - -Shoshone Lake is a lovely body of water, with an area of twelve square -miles and a most picturesque shore line. On its west shore is a geyser -basin, second in importance only to those on the Firehole. Among its -many interesting features may be mentioned the _Union Geyser_, of -which the middle crater plays to a height of 100 feet; and the _Bronze -Geyser_, very striking because of the perfect metallic luster of its -formation. - -From Shoshone Point, the road again ascends to the Continental Divide, -and then drops down the Atlantic slope toward the Yellowstone Valley. - -_Lake View_ (18 miles) is at a point where a sudden turn in the forest -road brings the tourist, quite without warning, in full view of one of -the most striking water landscapes in the world. The whole vista of -the _Yellowstone Lake_ is spread out before him, still 300 feet below -where he is standing. Far to the right and left, along the distant -eastern shore, extends the _Absaroka Range_ of mountains, many of its -summits still capped with snow. Every-where the dark pine forests come -down to the water's edge, in fine contrast with the silver surface of -the lake. The sparkling of the waves, the passage of the cloud -shadows, and, in sheltered coves, the tranquil mirror of the waters, -all combine to make the picture one to be long remembered. - -The Yellowstone Lake is about 7,741 feet, nearly a mile and a half, -above the level of the sea. It has a shore line of 100 miles, and an -area of 139 square miles. Its maximum depth is 300 feet, and its -average depth about 30 feet. It is fed almost entirely from the -springs and snow drifts of the Absaroka Range. Its waters are icy -cold, clear and transparent to great depths, and literally swarm with -trout. It is subject to heavy south-west winds, and at times is lashed -into tempestuous seas. - -[Illustration: - - _Terry Engr. Co._ _U.S. Geological Survey of the Territories._ - -Yellowstone Lake.] - -The shape of the lake was compared by the early explorers to the form -of the human hand. The resemblance is exceedingly remote, and one -writer has well observed that only the hand of a base ball player who -has stood for years behind the bat could satisfy the comparison. The -"fingers" have now been generally dropped from the maps and replaced -by the usual names; but "West Thumb" seems to have become a fixture. - -Surpassing the Yellowstone Lake both in area and altitude there are -but few lakes in the world. Lake Titticaca, in Peru, and one or two -others in the less explored regions of the Andes; and also a few lakes -on the lofty table-land of Thibet, comprise the number. - -The Yellowstone Lake has been a theme of enthusiastic praise by all -who have ever seen it; but what seems to us the most exquisite tribute -it has ever received is to be found in the farewell words of Mr. -Folsom, when, in 1869, he regretfully turned away from its western -shore into the deep forests which surround it:[BI] - -"As we were about departing on our homeward trip, we ascended the -summit of a neighboring hill and took a final look at Yellowstone -Lake. Nestled among the forest-crowned hills which bounded our -visions, lay this inland sea, its crystal waves dancing and sparkling -in the sunlight as if laughing with joy for their wild freedom. It is -a scene of transcendent beauty which has been viewed by but few white -men, and we felt glad to have looked upon it before its primeval -solitude should be broken by the crowds of pleasure seekers which at -no distant day will throng its shores." - -[BI] Page 20, Langford's reprint of the "Valley of the Upper -Yellowstone." See Appendix E. - -[Illustration: - - _Terry Engr. Co._ _Gandy._ - -Fishing Cone.] - -On the west shore of the lake is an extensive and important hot -springs basin. The principal features are the _Paint Pots_, not -inferior to those near the Fountain Hotel; two of the largest and most -beautiful quiescent springs in the Park; the _Lake Shore_ Geyser, -which plays frequently to a height of about 30 feet; an unnamed geyser -of considerable power but of very infrequent action; and the -celebrated _Fishing Cone_ where unfortunate trout find catching and -cooking painfully near together. - -From the west shore of the lake a visit can be advantageously made to -_Hart Lake_ and _Mount Sheridan_. The lake is probably the prettiest -in the Park. Near it, on the tributary _Witch Creek_, is a small but -important geyser basin. The principal features are the _Deluge_, -_Spike_ and _Rustic_ geysers, and the _Fissure Group_ of springs. The -Rustic Geyser is remarkable in having about it a cordon of logs, -evidently placed there by the Indians or white men many years ago. The -logs are completely incrusted with the deposits of the springs. - -Mt. Sheridan would rank with Mt. Washburn as a popular peak for -mountain climbers were it only more accessible. No summit in the Park -affords a finer prospect. - -From the west shore to the Lake Outlet the tourist may travel either -by stage around the border of the lake, or by boat across it. If he -does not want to miss one of the notable features of the tour he will -not omit the boat ride. In fact, a steamboat ride, at an altitude more -than a quarter of a mile greater than that of the summit of Mt. -Washington is not an every day diversion. From near the center of the -lake the view is surpassingly fine. To the south and south-west the -long arms of the lake penetrate the dark forest-crowned hills, which -are but stepping stones to the lofty mountains behind them. Far beyond -these may again be seen for the third time the familiar peaks of the -Tetons. All along the eastern shore stand the serried peaks of the -Absaroka Range, the boundary which nature has so well established -along the eastern border of the Park. A notable feature of this range -is the profile of a human face formed by the superimposed contours of -two mountains, one several miles behind the other. The best effect is -had from points between _Stevenson Island_ and the _Lake Hotel_. The -face is looking directly upward. A similar profile, noted by the -early explorers from the summit of Mt. Washburn, and nearly in the -same locality as this, although of course not the same feature, was -called by them the "Giant's Face," or the "Old Man of the Mountain." - -[Illustration: - - _Terry Engr. Co._ _Gandy._ - -Natural Bridge.] - -On the north-east shore of the lake are _Steamboat Spring_, and other -thermal phenomena worth visiting. From _Bridge Bay_ at the north-west -of the lake, a trip of a mile will take the tourist to an extremely -interesting freak of nature in the form of a _Natural Bridge_ over a -small tributary of Bridge Creek. The arch is forty-one feet high with -a thirty foot span. As seen from the down stream side it is very -regular and symmetrical. - -Some twenty miles above the head of the lake is the celebrated -_Two-Ocean Pass_, long known to the early trappers. It is probably the -most remarkable example of such a phenomenon in the world. Although -the fact of its existence was asserted and stoutly maintained by -Bridger for many years prior to the discovery of the Park region, it -was generally disbelieved until Captain Jones crossed the pass in -1873. It has since been visited and described by Hayden in 1878, by -Hague in 1884, and by Prof. Evermann of the United States Fish -Commission in 1891. The following facts and map are taken from Prof. -Evermann's report: - -[Illustration: - - _Terry Engr. Co._ - -Sketch of Two-Ocean Pass.] - -The pass is in a nearly level grassy park hemmed in by the surrounding -hills, and is 8,150 feet above the level of the sea. Its extreme -length is about one mile and its extreme breadth about three-fourths -of a mile. From the north a stream issues from a cañon, _a_, and -divides at _b_, part flowing to Atlantic Creek and part to Pacific -Creek. A similar stream, _c_, with a similar division, _d_, comes from -the south. At extreme low water, these divisions may possibly -disappear and all the water flow either one way or the other. But at -ordinary and high stages the water flows both ways. These streams are -by no means insignificant rivulets, but substantial water-courses -capable of affording passage to fish of considerable size. - -Here, then, we have the very interesting phenomenon of a single stream -upon the summit of the continent dividing and flowing part one way and -part the other, and forming a continuous water connection between the -Atlantic and Pacific Oceans over a distance of nearly 6,000 miles. - -A most singular and interesting acoustic phenomenon of this region, -although rarely noticed by tourists, is the occurrence of strange and -indefinable overhead sounds. They have long been noted by explorers, -but only in the vicinity of Shoshone and Yellowstone Lakes. They seem -to occur in the morning, and to last only for a moment. They have an -apparent motion through the air, the general direction noted by -writers being from north to south. The following descriptions are from -the pens of those who have given some study to these strange sounds. -Prof. S. A. Forbes says: - -"It put me in mind of the vibrating clang of a harp lightly and -rapidly touched high up above the tree tops, or the sound of many -telegraph wires swinging regularly and rapidly in the wind, or, more -rarely, of faintly heard voices answering each other overhead. It -begins softly in the remote distance, draws rapidly near with louder -and louder throbs of sound, and dies away in the opposite direction; -or it may seem to wander irregularly about, the whole passage lasting -from a few seconds to half a minute or more."[BJ] - -[BJ] "Overhead sounds in the vicinity of Yellowstone Lake." See -Appendix E. - -Mr. Edwin Linton thus describes it: - -"It seemed to begin at a distance, grow louder overhead where it -filled the upper air, and suggested a medley of wind in the tops of -pine trees, and in telegraph wires, the echo of bells after being -repeated several times, the humming of a swarm of bees, and two or -three other less definite sources of sound, making in all a composite -which was not loud, but easily recognized, and not at all likely to be -mistaken for any other sound in these mountain solitudes."[BK] - -[BK] "Overhead sounds in the vicinity of Yellowstone Lake." See -Appendix E. - -No rational explanation has ever been advanced for this remarkable -phenomenon. Its weird character is in keeping with its strange -surroundings. In other lands and times it would have been an object of -superstitious reverence or dread, and would have found a permanent -place in the traditions of the people. - - - - -CHAPTER XVIII. - -A TOUR OF THE PARK. - -_The Yellowstone Lake to Grand Cañon of the Yellowstone._ - - -Distance seventeen miles. The road follows the Yellowstone River along -the west bank all the way. - -Just after the tourist leaves the Lake Hotel, he will see on the right -of the roadway a small monument. It was placed there, in 1893, by the -United States Corps of Engineers to mark a position accurately -determined from astronomical observations by the United States Coast -and Geodetic Survey in 1892. It is of value as a point of reference in -surveys and other similar work.[BL] - -[BL] Latitude, 44° 33' 16.1" north. - Longitude, 110° 23' 43.1" west. - Magnetic variation about 19° east. - -_Mud Volcano_ (7.5 miles) is a weird, uncanny object, but, -nevertheless, a very fascinating feature and one which the tourist -should stop and examine. It is an immense funnel-shaped crater in the -side of a considerable hill on the west bank of the river. The mud -rises some distance above a large steam vent in the side of the crater -next the hill, and chokes the vent until the steam has accumulated in -sufficient force to lift the superincumbent mass. As the imprisoned -steam bursts forth, it hurls the mud with great violence against the -opposite side of the crater, making a heavy thud which is audible for -half a mile. These outbursts take place every few seconds. - -[Illustration: - - _Terry Engr. Co._ _Haynes, Photo., St. Paul._ - -Yellowstone River, between Lake and Falls.] - -A striking example of the strange commingling of dissimilar features -in the hot springs districts is found in the _Grotto_, a spring of -perfectly clear water, not far from the Mud Volcano. It is acted upon -by the steam in a manner precisely similar to that of the Mud Volcano, -but its waters issue directly from the rock, and are entirely clear. - -_Mud Geyser_, now rarely seen in action, was an important geyser -twenty years ago. As it became infrequent in its eruptions, and -tourists rarely saw them, the name was unconsciously, but mistakenly, -transferred to the Mud Volcano, which has none of the characteristics -of a geyser. - -The locality where these objects are found has considerable historic -interest. The ford just below the Mud Volcano was long used by the -hunters and trappers who passed up and down the river. Folsom crossed -it in 1869, and the Washburn party in 1870. The Nez Percés encamped -here two days, in 1877, and here transpired a part of the episode -elsewhere related. Hither came General Howard, in pursuit of the -Indians, although he did not cross the river at this point. - -_Trout Creek_ (9.5 miles) has a most peculiar feature, where the -tourist route crosses it, in the form of an extraordinary doubling of -the channel upon itself. It was this stream which Mr. Hedges, in 1870, -called "a lazy creek coiled up like a monster serpent under a sand -bluff." - -_Sulphur Mountain_ (11.5 miles) is half a mile back from the main -route. At its base is a remarkable _Sulphur Spring_, always in a -state of violent ebullition, although discharging only a small amount -of water. This is highly impregnated with sulphur, and leaves a yellow -border along the rivulet which carries it away. The best time to visit -Sulphur Mountain is on a clear sharp morning. The myriad little steam -vents which cover the surface of the hill are then very noticeable. - -_Hayden Valley_ is a broad grassy expanse extending several miles -along the river and far back from it on the west side. It was once a -vast arm of the lake. It comprises some fifty square miles, and is an -important winter range for the Park buffalo and elk. - -[Illustration: - - _Terry Engr. Co._ _Gandy._ - -Rapids Above Falls.] - -[Illustration: - - _Terry Engr. Co._ _U. S. Geological Survey of the Territories._ - -Upper Fall of the Yellowstone. - -Distant view.] - -The river along the lower portion of this valley is the most tranquil -and lovely stream imaginable--broad, deep, transparent, flowing -peacefully around its graceful curves, disturbed only by the splashing -trout which inhabit it. There is little here to suggest the mad -turmoil into which it is soon to plunge. At a point fifteen miles -below the lake, the river and road are forced by the narrowing valley -close together. The stream becomes suddenly broken into turbulent -cascades as it dashes violently between precipitous banks and among -massive boulders. - -The road also becomes decidedly picturesque. Hung up on the almost -vertical cliff overlooking the rapids, it forms a short drive -unsurpassed for interest anywhere else in the Park. At one point it -crosses a deep ravine over the highest bridge on the road system. Just -to the left of this bridge, in the bottom of the ravine, still stands -the tree upon which some white man carved his initials away back in -1819. - -Half a mile below the head of the rapids, the river suddenly contracts -its width to less than fifty feet, turns abruptly to the right, and -disappears. It is the _Upper Fall_ of the Yellowstone. In some -respects, this cataract differs from almost any other. Although the -ledge over which it falls is apparently perpendicular, the velocity of -flow at the crest of the fall is so great that the water pours over as -if on the surface of a wheel. Visitors at Niagara have noticed the -difference in this respect between the almost vertical sheet of water -on the American side and the well-rounded flow at the apex of the -Horseshoe Fall. The height of the Upper Fall of the Yellowstone is 112 -feet. - -From this point, the character of the scenery is wild and rugged. A -ride of a few hundred yards brings the tourist to a sharp bend in the -road, which at once unfolds to him the whole vista of the _Grand Cañon -of_ _the Yellowstone_. The sight is so impressive and absorbing that -the chances are he will cross the ravine of _Cascade Creek_ without -even noticing the lovely _Crystal Falls_ almost beneath his feet. - -[Illustration: - - _Terry Engr. Co._ - -Original Sketch.[BM] - -[BM] See foot-note, page 168.] - -[Illustration: - - _Terry Engr. Co._ _U. S. Geological Survey of the Territories._ - -Grand Cañon of the Yellowstone. - -Looking down--probably from Lookout Point.] - -[Illustration: - - _Terry Engr. Co._ _Haynes, Photo., St. Paul._ - -Grand Cañon of the Yellowstone. - -From Inspiration Point--looking up stream. Lower Fall in the -distance.] - -The _Cañon Hotel_ is half a mile beyond Cascade Creek, in an open -park, a little way back from the brink of the Cañon. From its porch, -the crest of the Upper Fall can be seen, and the roar of both -cataracts is distinctly audible. This hotel and that at the lake are -the most desirable in the Park for a protracted stay. - -The Grand Cañon of the Yellowstone is acknowledged by all beholders to -stand without parallel among the natural wonders of the globe. Other -cañons, the Yosemite, for example, have greater depths and more -imposing walls; but there are none which, in the words of Captain -Ludlow, "unite more potently the two requisites of majesty and -beauty." The cañon itself is vast. A cross-section in the largest part -measures 2,000 feet at the top, 200 feet at the bottom, and is 1,200 -feet deep, giving an area of over three acres. But such a gorge in any -other part of the world would not be what it is here. Its sides would -soon be clothed with vegetation, and it would be simply an immense -valley, beautiful, no doubt, but not what it is in the Yellowstone -National Park. - -There are three distinct features which unite their peculiar glories -to enhance the beauty of this cañon. These are the cañon itself, the -water-fall at its head, and the river below. - -It is the volcanic rock through which the river has cut its way that -gives the Grand Cañon its distinctive character. It is preëminently a -cañon of color. The hue has no existence which can not be found there. -"Hung up and let down and spread abroad are all the colors of the -land, sea, and sky," says Talmage, without hyperbole. From the dark, -forest-bordered brink, the sides descend for the most part with the -natural slope of the loose rock, but frequently broken by vertical -ledges and isolated pinnacles, which give a castellated and romantic -air to the whole. Eagles build their nests here, and soar midway -through the vast chasm, far below the beholder. The more prominent of -the projecting ledges cause many turns in the general course of the -cañon, and give numerous vantage places for sight-seeing. _Lookout -Point_ is one of these, half a mile below the Lower Falls. -_Inspiration Point_, some two miles farther down, is another. The -gorgeous coloring of the cañon walls does not extend through its -entire length of twenty miles. In the lower portion, the forests have -crept well down to the water's edge. Still, it is every-where an -extremely beautiful and impressive sight. Along the bottom of the -cañon, numerous steam vents can be seen, one of which, it is said, -exhibits geyseric action. In places, the cañon walls almost shut out -the light of day from the extreme bottom. Lieutenant Doane, who made -the dangerous descent several miles below the Falls, records that "it -was about three o'clock P. M., and stars could be distinctly seen, so -much of the sunlight was cut off from entering the chasm." - -The _Lower Fall_ of the Yellowstone must be placed in the front rank -of similar phenomena. It carries not one-twentieth the water of -Niagara, but Niagara is in no single part so beautiful. Its height is -310 feet. Its descent is very regular, slightly broken by a point of -rock on the right bank. A third of the fall is hidden behind the vast -cloud of spray which forever conceals the mad play of the waters -beneath; but the mighty turmoil of that recess in the rocks may be -judged from the deep-toned thunder which rises in ceaseless cadence -and jars the air for miles around. - -[Illustration: - - _Terry Engr. Co._ _Haynes, Photo., St. Paul._ - -Lower Fall of the Yellowstone--from below.] - -[Illustration: - - _Terry Engr. Co._ - -Original Sketch.[BN] - -[BN] See foot-note, page 168.] - -To many visitors the stream far down in the bottom of the cañon is the -crowning beauty of the whole scene. It is so distant that its rapid -course is diminished to the gentlest movement, and its continuous roar -to the subdued murmur of the pine forests. Its winding, hide-and-seek -course, its dark surface when the shadows cover it, its bright limpid -green under the play of the sunlight, its ever recurring foam-white -patches, and particularly its display of life where all around is -silent and motionless, make it a thing of entrancing beauty to all who -behold it. - -It is not strange that this cañon has been a theme for writer, -painter, and photographer, from its discovery to the present time. But -at first thought it is strange that all attempts to portray its -beauties are less satisfactory than those pertaining to any other -feature of the Park. The artist Moran acknowledged that "its beautiful -tints were beyond the reach of human art;" and General Sherman said of -this artist's celebrated effort: "The painting by Moran in the Capitol -is good, but painting and words are unequal to the subject." - -In photography, the number of pictures by professional and amateur -artists, that have been made of this cañon is prodigious. But -photography can only reproduce the form, it is powerless in the -presence of such an array of colors as here exists. - -[Illustration: - - _Terry Engr. Co._ _Haynes, Photo., St. Paul._ - -Lower Fall of the Yellowstone--from above.] - -[Illustration: - - _Terry Engr. Co._ _Haynes, Photo., St. Paul._ - -Grand Cañon in Winter. - -Probably from Lookout Point.] - -The pen itself is scarcely more effective than the pencil or camera. -Folsom, who first wrote of the cañon, frankly owned that "language is -entirely inadequate to convey a just conception of the awful grandeur -and sublimity of this masterpiece of nature's handiwork." Time has -shown this confession to be substantially true. From the clumsy work -of the casual newspaper scribe, to the giddy flight of that eminent -clergyman, who fancied he saw in this cañon a suitable hall for the -great judgment, with the nations of the earth filing along the bottom -upon waters "congealed and transfixed with the agitations of that -day," all descriptions do injustice to their subject. They fall short -of their mark or overreach it. They are not true to nature. We shall -therefore pass them by, with one exception, and shall commend our -readers to a study of this great wonderwork from the pine-clad verge -of the Grand Cañon itself. - -The exception to which reference is made relates to the Grand Cañon in -winter. It has been explained in another place why it is that the -winter scenery of the Park must ever remain a sealed book except to -those few hardy adventurers who are willing to brave the perils of -winter travel in that region. It is a pleasure, therefore, to give at -first hand what one of those intrepid spirits felt as he stood upon -Lookout Point less than two years ago, and saw the famous cañon clad -in its annual mantle of white. He says:[BO] - -"I suppose thousands have stood grasping the stem of that same sturdy, -ragged tree, and have looked in silence as we did. They have seen the -cañon in summer, and I wish they might all see it also in the depth of -winter. Now the glorious colors of the walls were gone, but the peaks -and crosses and pinnacles were there, free of all color, but done in -clean, perfect white. It was "frozen music"--the diapason of nature's -mightiest and most mysterious anthem all congealed in white, visible, -palpable, authentic. No thinking man could stand there and not feel -the exalted and compelling theme go thrilling to his heart." - -[BO] E. Hough, in _Forest and Stream_, June 30, 1894, p. 553. - -[Illustration: - - _Terry Engr. Co._ _U. S. Geological Survey._ - -Granite Block, near Inspiration Point.] - -Back perhaps a quarter of a mile from Inspiration Point, but within -fifty yards of the brink of the cañon, is a huge rectangular block of -granite which rests alone in the woods, a most singular and striking -object. It is evidently an intruder in unfamiliar territory, for there -is not a particle of granite outcrop known to exist within twenty -miles. It must have been transported to this place from some distant -quarry by the powerful agencies of the Glacial Epoch. - -To the eastward from the Grand Cañon are several interesting hot -springs districts, and there is one notable group at the southern base -of Mount Washburn. - - - - -CHAPTER XIX. - -A Tour of the Park. - -_The Grand Cañon of the Yellowstone to Junction Valley._ - - -Distance twenty-two miles.[BP] From the Grand Cañon north lies the -true scenic portion of the tourist route. Hitherto, the main -attractions have been the geyser basins, the Yellowstone Lake, and the -Grand Cañon. The tourist has probably frequently expressed his -disappointment at not finding as much rugged mountain scenery as he -had expected. But from this point on he will have no cause to -complain. - -[BP] The distances given in this chapter are only approximate, the -surveys for a wagon road from the cañon to Mammoth Hot Springs, via -Mt. Washburn, not being yet completed. - -_Mt. Washburn_ (12 miles) is the most celebrated peak in the Park, and -the first to receive its present name. Its prominence justifies its -notoriety, but the real cause of it is the fact that for eight years -the main tourist route lay across it. From its summit the Washburn -party received the first definite confirmation of the truth of the -rumors that led them into this region. All reports and magazine -articles which first gave a knowledge of the Park to the world were -written by persons who had crossed this mountain. As the view from its -summit is comprehensive and grand, covering almost the entire Park, it -of course figured prominently in all narratives. Tourists fell into -the custom established by the first explorers, of leaving their -cards in a receptacle for the purpose on the summit. Many eminent -names are to be seen there. It is a matter for congratulation that the -progress upon the road system will soon restore this mountain to its -former place in the tourist route. - -[Illustration: - - _Terry Engr. Co._ _U. S. Geological Survey of the Territories._ - -Tower Falls.] - -_Tower Falls_ (20 miles) is perhaps the most graceful cataract in the -Park, and should never be passed without a visit. It is on Tower Creek -only a short distance back from the Yellowstone. Lieutenant Doane says -in his report:[BQ] - -"Nothing can be more chastely beautiful than this lovely cascade, -hidden away in the dim light of overshadowing rocks and woods, its -very voice hushed to a low murmur, unheard at the distance of a few -hundred yards. Thousands might pass by within a half mile and not -dream of its existence; but once seen, it passes to the list of most -pleasant memories." - -[BQ] Page 8, "Yellowstone Expedition of 1870." See Appendix E. - -Near this point on both banks of the river are numerous sulphur -fumaroles, the last evidence of subterraneous fire which the tourist -will encounter on his trip. A little way above the mouth of the stream -is the old Bannock Ford, the same by which Colter crossed in 1807. It -is the only practicable ford within twenty miles in either direction. - -_Junction Butte_ (22 miles) is on the right bank of the Yellowstone in -the angle between that stream and the East Fork. It stands not only -near one of the most important stream junctions in the Park, but also -near a not less important road junction. It is a very striking object. -Its summit is nearly flat, and its sides near the summit are -perpendicular. Below this is a steep slope composed of enormous masses -of finely broken stone disengaged from the cliff by the force of the -elements. It is a fitting landmark for its important situation. - -[Illustration: - - _Terry Engr. Co_ _U. S. Geological Survey of the Territories._ - -First Bridge Over the Yellowstone.] - -_Baronett's Bridge_ crosses the river immediately opposite Junction -Butte. It is the first and only bridge yet (1895) built across the -Yellowstone within the limits of the Park. It was built by the well -known mountaineer, J. H. Baronett, in the spring of 1871, for the -convenience of Clark's Fork miners. It was partially destroyed by the -Nez Percés in 1877, but was repaired by Howard's command, and still -further repaired the following year by Baronett and Norris. In 1880, -it was replaced by a more substantial structure. At present it enjoys -the unique distinction of being a private toll bridge on a government -reservation. - -_Junction Valley_,[BR] described elsewhere, is a name properly -applicable to the valley inclosed by Crescent Hill, Mt. Washburn, -Specimen Ridge, and the mountains north of Lamar River. This valley, -and those of tributary streams, form the largest treeless tract in the -Park. - -[BR] The popular name for this locality is "Yancey's," from John -Yancey, who has long held a lease in the Valley of Lost Creek at the -foot of Crescent Hill. He has kept a sort of hotel or stopping place -for the convenience of travelers to Cooke City, as well as for -tourists between the Grand Cañon and Mammoth Hot Springs by way of Mt. -Washburn. - -_Amethyst Mountain_, _Specimen Ridge_, and the _Fossil Forests_ are -names at once suggestive of the action of geological agencies which -have been described in another chapter. Amethyst, limpid quartz, milky -quartz, chalcedony, carnelian, prase, chrysoprase, banded agate, -flint, jaspers of all colors, semi-opal, calcite, and many other -varieties abound. The forest petrifactions present one of the most -interesting scientific problems in the Park. - -The _Lamar River Cañon_ (7 miles above Junction Butte) is a gorge -about half a mile long, the chief characteristic of which is the -enormous number and size of boulders which have fallen into it. These -are almost spherical in shape, and, in many instances, are as smooth -as if from the hand of a stone glazier. They are piled up like -billiard balls, to such a depth that the stream flows entirely out of -sight beneath them.[BS] - -[BS] Above the head of this cañon are the remains of what seems to -have once been a bridge, but no record concerning it has come to the -writer's notice. - -_Soda Butte_ (15 miles above Junction Butte) and _Soda Butte Cañon_, -extending from Soda Butte to Cooke City, are worthy of much attention. -The cañon in particular is as wonderful a bit of scenery as any -mountains afford. It is every-where rugged, majestic and imposing, and -there is no point in its twelve miles length that does not present a -landscape deserving of the tourist's careful study. Mr. W. H. Weed, -who has done much work in the Park, and particularly in this section, -says of this valley: - -"To the eastward Soda Butte Valley penetrates the heart of the rugged -Sierra, whose high peaks rise in castellated forms. The visitor, -disappointed perhaps in the mountain scenery of the Park, after -traveling the usual route over the dusty roads of the Park plateau, -will here find mountain views that are sure to fulfill his -expectations, while the neighborhood is not lacking in curiosities -that in another land would attract visitors from far and wide."[BT] - -[BT] Fossil Forests of the Yellowstone. See Appendix E. - -_Cooke City_ is a small mining camp just outside the north-east corner -of the Park in the midst of the Clark's Fork mining district. It is of -interest in this connection only on account of its notorious hostility -to the Yellowstone National Park. - -_Death Gulch_, reputed to exist in the valley of Cache Creek, is like -Bridger's Glass Mountain, mostly a product of the imagination. It -seems that some animals were once poisoned there, and that later, -certain explorers, finding them, attributed their death to an escape -of carbonic acid gas from the earth. The name has found its way into -maps and reports of highest authority, but the object itself has no -existence. - -The _Hoodoo Region_ is near the head of Miller Creek just outside the -original reservation, although within the Forest Reserve addition. -This mysterious region furnishes probably the most striking example in -existence of the effects of erosion and wind action upon masses of -moderately soft rock. The region was discovered by miners in 1870, but -was first explored and reported upon by Colonel Norris in 1880, who -thus describes it:[BU] - -"Nearly every form, animate or inanimate, real or chimerical, ever -actually seen or conjured by the imagination, may here be observed. -Language does not suffice to properly describe these peculiar -formations; sketches may probably do something, and photographs more, -to convey a conception of their remarkable character, but actual -observation is absolutely necessary to adequately impress the mind -with the wild, unearthly appearance of these eroded Hoodoos of the -Goblin Land. These monuments are from fifty to two or three hundred -feet in height, with narrow, tortuous passages between them, which -sometimes are tunnels through permanent snow or ice fields, where the -big-horn sheep hide in safety; while the ceaseless but ever changing -moans of the wild winds seem to chant fitting requiems to these -gnome-like monuments of the legendary Indian gods." - -[BU] Page 8, Annual Report, Superintendent of the Park, for the year -1880. - -Returning to Junction Valley, and following down the Yellowstone, the -tourist soon arrives at the _Third Cañon_ (the third above Livingston, -the Grand Cañon being fourth), which extends from the eastern limit of -Junction Valley to the north boundary of the Park. Located anywhere -else, away from the overshadowing splendor of the Grand Cañon, it -would become celebrated. Some of the views, particularly from the high -ground north of Mt. Everts, overlooking by nearly 2,000 feet the vast -chasm through which the turbulent river flows, are among the most -impressive in the entire region. - -From the immediate vicinity of the Third Cañon, the road crosses the -plateau of Black Tail Deer Creek to the valley of the East Gardiner. -The tour terminates at Mammoth Hot Springs. - - - - -PART III.--The Future. - - - - -CHAPTER I. - -HOSTILITY TO THE PARK. - - -From what has been thus far set forth the reader can not have failed -to observe how fortunate have been the events, both in prehistoric and -in recent times, which have made the Yellowstone National Park what it -is to-day. In the course of long ages Nature developed this region -into its present attractive form, and filled it with wonders which -will never fail to command the admiration of men. She placed it upon -the very apex of the continent, and made of it an inexhaustible -reservoir of water for a perennial supply to the parched and rainless -desert around it. She interspersed among its forests an abundance of -parks and valleys, where the native fauna of the continent, elsewhere -fast passing away, may find protection in all future time. With -infinite foresight she made it unfit for the gainful occupations of -men, so that every motive to appropriate it for private use is -removed. - -For many years after the white man first looked within its borders, a -rare combination of circumstances prevailed to keep it from becoming -generally known until the time had arrived when the government could -effectually reserve it from settlement. Finally, since its formal -erection into a public park, the same good fortune has attended it, in -spite of many adverse influences, until it has become thoroughly -intrenched in the good opinion of the people. - -So fully has the experience of the past quarter century confirmed the -wisdom of setting apart this region for public uses, that it ought no -longer to be necessary to say a word in favor of its continued -preservation. To most people it will seem impossible that there should -be any one who would seek the mutilation or destruction of this -important reservation. Unfortunately there are many such. No session -of Congress for twenty years has been free from attempted legislation -hostile to the Park. The schemes to convert it into an instrument of -private greed have been many, and strange as it may seem, they are -invariably put forward by those very communities to whom the Park is, -and must ever remain, the chief glory of their section. It is a -lamentable proof of the dearth of patriotic spirit that always betrays -itself whenever the interests of individuals and of the public come -into collision. Nevertheless it is a great satisfaction to know that -this spirit of hostility is confined to an infinitesimal portion of -the whole people. Excepting a few mine owners and their following, a -handful of poachers, one or two railroad corporations, and a few -greedy applicants for special franchises, the people of the country -are a unit in favor of the strictest preservation of this great -national pleasure ground. No better proof of this can be had than the -fact that the Park has successfully withstood for so long a period -every attack that has been made upon it. - -It will not do, however, to assume that, because these schemes have -hitherto failed, they will always continue to fail. Since they have -their origin in speculative ventures, they will be put forward so long -as they offer the least pecuniary inducement. The certainty of this, -and the danger of their ultimate success, justify the assignment of a -brief space to a consideration of this subject. - - - - -CHAPTER II. - -RAILROAD ENCROACHMENT AND CHANGE OF BOUNDARY. - - -Nearly all of the enterprises that have been put forward in opposition -to the true interests of the Reservation partake of the nature of -railroad encroachment. Without entering into the merits of particular -projects, it will be sufficient to explain in general terms the -reasons why the government has always opposed them. - -Railroads in the Yellowstone Park are objectionable because: - -(1.) They will mar, and in places destroy, that natural condition -which is one of its greatest charms. From the first it has been the -wish of those who know any thing of the Yellowstone that it should -remain as nature made it. The instructions of the Interior Department -to the first Superintendent of the Park, two months after the Act of -Dedication became a law, thus announced the policy of the government -upon this subject: - -"It is not the desire of the Department that any attempts shall be -made to beautify or adorn this reservation, but merely to preserve -from injury or spoliation the timber, mineral deposits, and various -curiosities of that region, so far as possible, in their natural -condition." - -It requires no argument to show that nothing would so interfere with -this natural condition as the construction of a railroad through that -country; and the danger involved in these projects early became -apparent to all who were well acquainted with the situation. As early -as 1883, Lieutenant Kingman thus refers to this subject in his annual -report, wherein he describes his proposed road system for the Park: - -"The plan for improvement which I have submitted is given in the -earnest hope and upon the supposition that it [the Park] will be -preserved as nearly as may be as the hand of nature left it--a source -of pleasure to all who visit it, and a source of wealth to no one. If -the Park ever becomes truly popular and national, it will be when the -people come to know and appreciate its delightful summer climate, the -wonderful efficiency of its baths and its mineral waters, as well as -the natural wonders, beauties and curiosities to be seen there. Then, -if there are numerous small, quiet hotels scattered here and there -throughout the Park, where visitors can have plain and simple -accommodations at moderate prices, the overworked and the sick, as -well as the curious, will come here, not to be awed by the great falls -and astounded by the geysers, and then to go away, but will come here -and will remain for weeks and months, and will find what they seek, -rest, recreation and health. But if it ever becomes the resort of -fashion, if its forests are stripped to rear mammoth hotels, if the -race-course, the drinking saloon and gambling-table invade it, if its -valleys are scarred by railroads, and its hills pierced by tunnels, if -its purity and quiet are destroyed and broken by the noise and smoke -of the locomotive; ... then it will cease to belong to the whole -people, and will interest only those that it helps to enrich, and -will be unworthy the care and protection of the National Government." - -The history of the twelve years since the above was written confirms -in every point this forcible presentation of the case. - -(2.) Railroads will unavoidably seriously cripple the present tourist -routes. They must of necessity occupy the valleys. But it is through -these that the tourist route passes, and it is frequently the case -that they are not wide enough for both. In many cases the roadway -would be forced back upon the hills, and in others its present -location would have to be changed. It is certain that the admirable -system of roads, which the government is slowly working out, would -receive irreparable injury at the hands of any railroad which might be -built through that region. - -(3.) Railroads would mean the inevitable destruction of the large -game. The winter snows are too deep among the hills for game to -subsist there. It is necessary to come down into the valleys, where -there is more grass and less snow. But, as already stated, it is -through these valleys that railroads must pass if at all. The trains -would frighten the animals back into the hills, where starvation would -await them. Moreover, the loss of game from poaching would be greatly -aggravated by the increased facility of clandestine access to that -region. - -(4.) Railroads would destroy the Park forests. During July, August, -and September, there are always long periods of dry weather when the -dense bodies of fallen timber, the impenetrable tangles of underbrush, -and the luxuriant prairie grass are a mass of inflammable tinder. A -spark converts it into a conflagration. A railroad winding its way -through this country would render protection against fires, even now a -matter of great difficulty, wholly out of the question. Referring to -this subject in his annual report for 1894, the Superintendent of the -Park says: - -"Six months from the entrance of the first locomotive within the -limits of the Park, there will not be one acre of its magnificent -forests left unburned." - -What such a catastrophe would mean to the future development of the -surrounding country may be appreciated by a perusal of our chapter on -the Flora of the Yellowstone. - -(5.) As a matter of public policy, the granting of a railway franchise -in the Park is objectionable because it necessarily creates a -perpetual monopoly of a public privilege. There is no practicable way -to avoid it. It has been proposed to compel the railroad to share the -advantage of this monopoly with the public, by paying a certain -percentage of earnings on its Park business to constitute an -improvement fund. With Union Pacific history fresh in the public mind, -the government will not be likely to enter into a partnership of that -precarious nature. - -From the foregoing exposition, it is clear that only the most cogent -reasons should ever sanction the construction of railroads in the -Yellowstone Park. These reasons, from the standpoint of the railroad -companies, as set forth by the promoters of a recent bill before -Congress, fall under two heads. - -In the first place, it is speciously urged that a railroad would -render the Park more accessible, cheapen the cost of visiting it, and -make it fulfill more perfectly its original design as a park for the -people. To all this it may be replied that the people do not want the -improvement at the price they must pay for it. By an almost unanimous -voice they oppose it. It is true that the Park is not as accessible as -one might wish it to be, or as it soon will be. But to make it easily -accessible, it is by no means necessary that a railroad should pass -through it. A line touching the southern boundary and communicating -with the central portions of the country would answer every practical -purpose. The pretext that a railroad across the Reservation will -greatly aid the tourist is erroneous. The points of interest are so -scattered about that a coach would be in any case a necessity, and all -the railroad would really save to the tourist would be the distance -from the boundary to the belt line. - -Neither will such a railroad materially lessen the cost of a visit, -which has always been, and will always be, in the main, getting _to_ -that region. The Reservation is 1,500 miles from the center of -population of the country, and it is this remote location that makes -visiting it cost. The outlay after getting there is trifling in -comparison with that of coming and going. Whether a railroad pass -though the Park, or simply touch its southern border, will not -appreciably affect this principal item. - -In the second place, it is urged that the Park stands directly in the -path of the railroads and so "acts as a blockade to the development of -three large states." As this will always form the staple argument for -granting a right-of-way for railroads across the Reservation, it will -be well to scrutinize it somewhat carefully. - -It is not at all a question of whether the country about the Park is -at present sufficiently supplied with railroads. The important -question is: Will any portion of this territory be better served by a -railroad that may be built across the Reservation than by one coming -from another direction? The most superficial examination of the map, -even by one not personally acquainted with the country, will answer -this question in the negative. The Yellowstone Valley on the north, -the Bighorn Valley on the east, the Jackson Lake country on the south, -and the Madison and Henry Fork Valleys on the west, find their natural -outlets by routes not passing through the Yellowstone Park. A railroad -entering the Park on one side through a lofty wall of mountains, and -leaving it on the other through a similar wall, after traversing the -inclosed plateau for a distance of perhaps seventy-five or one hundred -miles, would be almost as much lost to the country outside as if for -this whole distance it were built through a tunnel. In fact, the true -welfare both of the Park and of the surrounding country would be best -served by a line passing through the Wind River Valley, across one of -the easy passes into the Valley of the Snake, and thence along the -southern border of the Park, past Jackson Lake and the northern spur -of the Teton Range, into the valleys of Idaho and Montana. This would -give the Park a needed southern approach, and would directly serve a -vast tract of territory. Tributary either to this line, or to one -north of the Park, or to both, another would soon be built along the -extensive Valley of the Bighorn. No imaginable route across the -National Park could so well subserve both local and public interests. - -From an engineering point of view, the Yellowstone Park is poor -railroad country. It could be crossed, to be sure, but not easily, and -not at all except by monopolizing portions of the tourist route. The -long winter season of nearly seven months would interpose an almost -insuperable obstacle to the successful operation of any line which -might be built. We quote again from the report of the Park -Superintendent for the year 1894: - -"The great amount of moisture furnished by the lake and its numerous -tributaries gives a mantle of snow that will average fifteen feet in -depth, and with the strong winds prevailing in this mountainous -country no railroad could be kept running during the six months of -winter without being entirely inclosed in snow sheds, which would -prove destructive to the natural beauty of the Park." - -In short, it is certain that, were it not for the special inducements -which a monopoly of Park travel offers, no railroad could afford to -locate its line across that territory. - -Closely related to this general subject is that of building an -electric line for tourist transportation within the Park. It is at -once apparent that the objections to such a railroad are much less -formidable than to one operated by steam locomotives. The danger of -fire is eliminated. The unsightly character of an ordinary railway -outfit is exchanged for attractive tourist cars. The power plant, -being located in cañons and operated by water, would give no outward -evidence of its existence. There being no long trains of cars, no -smoke, no screeching of locomotives, the game would not be much more -frightened by it than by the stage coaches. In winter, traffic would -be suspended and the game would be undisturbed on the ranges. The -line, by its greater speed, would be a convenience to tourists having -but a short time at their disposal, and also to those, infirm in -health, who find the long stage rides fatiguing. - -Such are the merits of an electric railway for tourist transportation -in this country. If the people really desired it, and if it could be -built and operated by the government, so as to exclude as far as -possible all corporate management of Park business, there would be no -serious objection to the project. Of course it should never be -permitted, as some times proposed, to use the present wagon roads. -These must not in any event be interfered with. - -The question then is, Do the people desire this kind of -transportation? Fortunately we can answer this question with -authority. In 1892, a vote upon it was obtained from the tourists of -that season. The result was a majority of more than five to one -against it. In giving their votes, tourists frequently went beyond the -specific question at issue to express their emphatic disapproval of -the construction of any kind of railroad in the Park. The whole result -was a gratifying proof of the deep-seated interest of the people in -this Reservation, and of their unalterable wish that it remain forever -free from the handiwork of man. In fact, to almost every body in these -days, a coaching tour like that through the Yellowstone, is a decided -novelty. There is no other place in this country, probably not in the -world, where one approaching it can be had. The people enjoy it. They -would prefer to see it developed and perfected, rather than replaced -by the noisy car, to get away from which they have come so far. - -In the long and fruitless struggle to secure rights-of-way for -railroads, the promoters of these projects have resorted to various -indirect methods the most noteworthy of which is a proposal to change -the boundary line of the Park. We have elsewhere explained how this -boundary was originally determined. For a random line, which of -necessity it largely was, it was a most excellent one. No one would -have been dissatisfied with it were it not that it was subsequently -found to stand in the way of certain private enterprises. - -When it became apparent that the government would never consent to the -construction of a railroad within the Park, it was sought to compass -the same end by cutting off all that portion of the Reservation lying -outside of, and including, the proposed right-of-way. - -In accordance with the proverbial policy of indirection which -characterizes schemes of this sort, the real purpose of this -proposition is always veiled under a beneficent guise, intended to -make its promoters appear as zealous guardians of the Park, rather -than what they really are--conspirators for its destruction. The -proposed change of boundary is ostensibly based upon the alleged -necessity of having a natural boundary--that is, a boundary along the -courses of streams. The present line, it is urged, is unmarked and no -one knows where it is. A stream is a definite, visible line, seen and -known by every one.[BV] - -[BV] It is of course unnecessary to point out that an artificial line -can easily be marked so that there shall be no uncertainty about its -location. The hollowness of purpose on the part of those who propose -this argument is disclosed by the fact that, of the 280 miles, more or -less, in the proposed boundary, they provide a natural line for only -about 50 miles--or along that precise portion where they want to build -a railroad. All the rest of the way an artificial line is good -enough! - -The pernicious fallacy that lurks in this argument is plainly visible -if we look a little beneath the surface. _Never permit the boundaries -of the Yellowstone Park to be brought down into the valleys._ Nature -has indeed built the proper boundaries; but they are mountain ranges, -not valleys. A thousand Chinese walls heaped together would not form a -barrier like the Absarokas on the east, the Snowy Range on the north, -the Gallatin Range on the west, and the Tetons and the Big Game Ridge -on the south. Along the present boundary line there are very few -places where it is possible to build human habitations. No poacher or -law breaker can there fix his stealthy abode ready at a favorable -opportunity to dash across it. But if it were in the bottom of the -valleys, a whole colony of these dangerous individuals would soon -infest every border of the Park. Police surveillance, in any case -extremely difficult, would then be well-nigh impossible. No! Whatever -changes may be made in the boundary of the Park, let it always be kept -among the mountain tops. - -What the success of any of these projects to cut off, or segregate, -portions of the Park would mean, may be judged from a single -instance--that, namely, of the north-east corner of the Park. In this -strip of territory are some of the finest scenery and most -interesting scientific curiosities to be found upon the Reservation. -It is the great winter grazing ground for the elk, and by estimate -based upon actual count no fewer than 20,000 of these noble animals -find their winter subsistence here. That all of this game would be -almost instantly annihilated by the segregation of this strip goes -without saying. More than this, the admission to the very heart of the -Park of that class of reckless characters, who even now are its -greatest source of danger, would vastly enhance the difficulty of -protecting the remaining portions. - -It is well to emphasize by repetition the few important facts -pertaining to this question: - -(1.) There are no private interests on the borders of the Park whose -development is jeopardized by the refusal of the government to give -access to them by a railroad across the Reservation. They can all be -reached from the outside without encountering greater obstacles than -have been overcome in scores of other places throughout the West. - -(2.) There is no need of a railroad in the Park so far as the comfort -or advantage of the tourists is concerned. A line along the southern -border would answer quite as well, and would serve the surrounding -country better. - -(3.) There is no occasion to construct an electric line in the Park. -Nearly all of those who visit that region oppose it. - -(4.) There is no necessity for changing the present boundaries of the -Reservation. - - - - -CHAPTER III. - -CONCLUSION. - - -It is in respect of the foregoing matters that the Yellowstone -National Park has most to fear. The general public, although always in -favor of its preservation, knows nothing of the merit of these various -projects. A bill is introduced in Congress in the interest of some -private enterprise. It is supported by representations and statistics -gotten up for the occasion. There may be no one at hand to refute -them, and they are the only information upon which Congress can act. -More than once these bills have been reported favorably from -committee, when every essential statement in the committee's report -was contrary to fact. Unless some friend of the Park is present, ready -and willing to devote time, and perhaps money, to its defense, there -is only too much danger that these measures will eventually prove -successful. - -Thus far, the Park has never been lacking in such friends; and there -is no more encouraging fact in its history than this, that some one -has always been on guard against any thing which might work to its -injury. Men like Senator Vest in official position, or William Hallett -Phillips in private life, and journals like _Forest and Stream_, have -stood for years, in a purely public-spirited manner, without -remunerative inducement of any sort, and often in face of the -bitterest vituperation and abuse, against the designs of selfish and -unscrupulous schemers. In like manner, government officials connected -with the Park have always, with one or two exceptions, earnestly -opposed these dangerous projects. It is plain to any one who is -familiar with its inside history, that, but for the agencies just -mentioned, there would not be to-day any Yellowstone Park at all. It -is equally plain, that so long as friends like these are forthcoming, -the Park has little to fear from its enemies. - -In still another respect, the Park has been unfortunate where it had a -right to expect better things. Prior to the admission of Montana, -Wyoming, and Idaho into the Union of States, its interests were looked -after in Congress, particularly in the Senate, by a few members who -took great pride in promoting its welfare. But when the above -territories were admitted to the Union, these gentlemen very naturally -turned over the charge, which they had voluntarily assumed, to the -members from the new States, as being thereafter its proper guardians. -It was, of course, believed that in them, if in any one, the Park -would find needed championship and protection. It is a matter of great -regret that these very reasonable expectations have not been realized. -A glance at the list of bills pertaining to the Yellowstone National -Park, which have been presented to Congress in the past six years, -will show that nearly every objectionable measure has been fathered by -the very men whose first duty would seem to have been to oppose them. -In a speech opposing the Segregation Project, delivered in the Senate -in the winter of 1892-3, Senator Vest referred to this subject with -justifiable indignation. He said: - -"When those States [Montana, Wyoming, and Idaho] were territories, and -not represented in the Senate, I considered it the duty of every -Senator, as this Park belonged to all the people of the United States, -... to defend its integrity, and to keep it for the purposes for which -it was originally designed. Since Senators have come from those -States, who, of course, must be supposed to know more about that Park -than those of us who live at a distance, and since they have -manifested a disposition to mutilate it, I must confess that my -interest in it has rather flagged, and I feel very much disposed, in -plain language, to wash my hands of the whole business. If the -constituencies, who are more benefited than any others can possibly be -in the Park, are willing to see it cut off, the best disposition of -the matter would be to turn it open to the public, let the full greed -and avarice of the country have their scope, let the geysers be -divided out and taken for the purpose of washing clothes, ... let the -water of that splendid water-fall in the Yellowstone River be used to -turn machinery, let the timber be cut off; in other words, destroy the -Park, and make it a sacrifice to the greed of this advanced age in -which we live." - -It is only fair to say that generally these members do not personally -favor the measures to which they lend official countenance and -comfort. One can find a practical, if not a morally justifiable, -excuse for their course in the exigencies of political life which too -often constrain men to official action not in accordance with their -private judgment. Unquestionably, a majority of the people of these -young and enterprising states are immovably opposed to any thing which -may tend to mutilate or destroy this important reservation; and -it is not believed that their broader patriotism will ever be -overridden by the narrow and perverted wishes of a few straggling -constituencies.[BW] - -[BW] The almost prophetic warning of Captain Harris in his last report -as Superintendent of the Park has a peculiar force in this connection: - -"In my experience in connection with this National Park, I have been -very forcibly impressed with the danger to which it is subjected by -the greed of private enterprise. All local influence centers in -schemes whereby the Park can be used for pecuniary advantage. In the -unsurpassed grandeur of its natural condition, it is the pride and -glory of the nation; but if, under the guise of improvement, selfish -interests are permitted to make merchandise of its wonders and -beauties, it will inevitably become a by-word and a reproach." - -Finally, the effect of a single evil precedent upon the future of the -Park must be kept constantly in mind. The door once opened, though by -never so small a degree, can not again be closed; but will sooner or -later be thrown wide open. A privilege granted to one can not be -denied to another. If one corner of the Park is cut off, other -portions will share the same fate. If one railroad is granted a right -of way across the reservation, another can not be refused. The only -way to avoid these dangers is to keep the door entirely closed. - -There is now but little real need of further positive legislation. -Some provision should of course be made for an adequate police force, -and ample means should be provided to perfect the system of roads. -Happily this duty involves no appreciable burden. It requires no -continuing outlay to "beautify and adorn." And when it is done, the -further policy of the government toward the Park should be strictly -negative, designed solely to preserve it unimpaired, as its founders -intended, for the "benefit and enjoyment" of succeeding generations. - - - - -APPENDIX A. - -GEOGRAPHICAL NAMES IN THE YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. - - -I. - -INTRODUCTORY. - -In common experience, the importance of geographical names lies in -their use as a means of identification. To describe an object there -must be a name, and for this purpose one name is as good as another. -But if the reason be sought why a particular name happened to be -selected, it will generally be found to arise, not from this practical -necessity, but from some primary fact or tradition, or from some -distinguished character, in the annals of the community where it -occurs. In its mountains and valleys, its lakes and streams, and in -its civil divisions, the cradle history of a country may always be -found recorded. - -In newly-discovered countries, the naming of geographical features is -the dearest prerogative of the explorer, as it is also the one most -liable to abuse from personal vanity or egotism. The desire to attach -his name, or those of his personal friends, to the prominent landmarks -of the globe, where the eye of posterity may never escape them, is a -weakness from which no discoverer has yet shown himself free. - -In a region like the Yellowstone National Park, destined for all time -to be a resort for the lovers of science and pleasure, this temptation -was quite irresistible; so much so, that, when the expeditions of 1870 -and 1871 left the field, they left little worth naming behind them. -And yet the honor thus gained has not, we venture to say, been all -that its votaries desired. Small is the number of tourists who stop to -inquire for whom Mary Lake, DeLacy Creek, or Stevenson Island was -named. Fewer still are aware that Mt. Everts was _not_ christened in -honor of a distinguished American statesman of similar name, but in -commemoration of one of the most thrilling individual experiences in -American history. So with all these personal names. The lively -satisfaction with which they were given finds no counterpart in the -languid indifference with which the modern visitor mechanically -repeats them. - -In as much as it fell to the lot of the United States Geological -Survey to originate a great many of the names in our western -geography, it is interesting to know from official sources the -principles which governed in this important work. Writing upon this -point, Dr. Hayden says:[BX] - -"In attaching names to the many mountain peaks, new streams, and other -geographical localities, the discovery of which falls to the pleasant -lot of the explorer in the untrodden wilds of the West, I have -followed the rigid law of priority, and given the one by which they -have been generally known among the people of the country, whether -whites or Indians; but if, as is often the case, no suitable -descriptive name can be secured from the surroundings, a personal one -may then be attached, and the names of eminent men who have identified -themselves with the great cause, either in the fields of science or -legislation, naturally rise first in the mind." - -[BX] Page 8, Fifth Annual Report of Dr. Hayden. - -In the more recent and thorough survey of the Park by the United -States Geological Survey, it became necessary to provide names for -those subordinate features which, in a less restricted field, the -early explorers had thought unworthy of notice. Professor Arnold -Hague, upon whom this work has principally fallen, thus states the -rule which he has followed:[BY] - -"In consultation with Mr. Henry Gannett, geologist in charge of -geography, it was agreed that the necessary new names to designate the -unnamed mountains, valleys, and streams should be mainly selected from -the beasts, birds, fishes, trees, flowers, and minerals found within -the Park or the adjacent country." - -[BY] Page 152, Part I, Annual Report United States Geological Survey -for year ending June 30, 1887. - -The christening of the hot springs and geysers of the Park has been -singularly fortunate. The names are in all cases characteristic. They -are not studied efforts, but are simply the spontaneous utterances -from first impressions by those who had never seen, and had heard but -little of, similar phenomena. It is doubtful if the most careful study -could improve them, and tourists will agree with General Poe who -referred as follows to this subject when he visited the Park in -1877:[BZ] - -"The region of these geysers has been rightly named Fire Hole, and one -almost wonders that in this country, where the tendency is to name -natural objects after men who have a temporary prominence, this -interesting place and its assemblage of wonders should have so -completely escaped, and in general and in particular received names so -very appropriate." - -[BZ] Page 79, "Inspection made in the Summer of 1877, etc." See -Appendix E. - -In the race for the geographical honors of the Park, the prize fell -neither to the United States Geological Survey nor even to Colonel -Norris, though each was a close competitor. It was won by that -mythical potentate of whose sulphurous empire this region is thought -by some to be simply an outlying province. Starting with "Colter's -Hell," the list grew until it contained "Hell Roaring Creek," "Hell -Broth Springs," "Hell's Half Acre," "Satan's Arbor," and the Devil's -"Den," "Workshop," "Kitchen," "Stairway," "Slide," "Caldron," "Punch -Bowl," "Frying Pan," "Well," "Elbow," "Thumb," "Inkstand," etc., etc. -It is some satisfaction to know that this rude and fiery nomenclature -is gradually falling into disuse. - -In a measure from sympathy with the purpose of the early name-givers, -and to help those who take an interest in such matters to know when, -by whom, and why the geographical names of the Park were given, a -complete list of these names, with a few from adjacent territory, has -been prepared. The letters and numbers immediately after the names -(except those in parentheses) give marginal references on the map to -facilitate identification. The date of christening and the name of the -christening party next follow. When these can not now be determined -with precision, the work is credited to the authors of the map upon -which they first appear. Next comes whatever account is discoverable -of the origin of the names, authority being quoted, as far as -possible, from the writings of whoever bestowed them. Wherever an -object was named from some natural characteristic, as its form, color, -composition, or other peculiarity, or from the birds, beasts, fishes, -insects, trees, flowers, shrubs or minerals of the Park, the single -word "characteristic" denotes the fact. The abbreviation "U. S. G. S." -is for "United States Geological Survey." - - -APPENDIX A. - -II. - -MOUNTAIN RANGES, PEAKS, BUTTES, RIDGES, HILLS. - - [The numbers in parentheses denote elevations. These are taken from - the latest map by the United States Geological Survey, and are the - same as that of the one hundred foot contour nearest the summit. - The true elevation of the ultimate peak is in each case slightly - greater, lying somewhere between the figure given and an altitude - one hundred feet higher.] - -_Abiathar Peak_ (10,800)--C: 14--1885--U. S. G. S.--For Charles -_Abiathar_ White, Paleontologist, U. S. Geological Survey. - -_Absaroka Range_, A-X: 12-16--1885--U. S. G. S.--This range of -mountains has had an unfortunate christening history. It was first -known as the Yellowstone Range, from its close relation to the -Yellowstone River, of which it is the source. The original name dates -from as far back as 1863, and was adopted by the first explorers of -the Park country. It was officially recognized in 1871, by both the -Corps of Engineers and the United States Geological Survey. When the -Park was created this range became its real eastern boundary, and many -of its peaks were named for those who had borne prominent parts in its -history. The name had thus an added claim to perpetuity. It passed -into general use, and appears in all the writings of the United States -Geological Survey down to 1883. - -In 1873, Captain W. A. Jones, of the Corps of Engineers, led an -expedition through these mountains--the first that ever crossed them. -He gave them a new name, "Sierra Shoshone." Except for the fact that -he was violating the rule of priority, his action in giving this -name, as well as his judgment in its selection, were of unquestionable -propriety. It was a tribe of the Shoshonean family who alone dwelt in -the Park, or among these mountains, and it was entirely fitting to -commemorate this fact in a distinct and permanent manner. The name -passed rapidly into public use, and by 1880 had practically supplanted -the original name. - -For reasons that can hardly be made to appear satisfactory, the United -States Geological Survey, in 1883, or soon after, rejected both these -names and adopted in their place Absaroka, "the Indian name of the -Crow nation" (Hague). Of course this action can have no pretense of -justification from the standpoint of the "rigid law of priority." -There are very few instances in American geography of a similar -disregard for the rights of previous explorers. Unfortunately, not -even the argument of appropriateness can be urged in its defense. -These mountains, except that portion north of the Park, were never -properly Crow territory, and the name is thus distinctly an -importation. Its future use is now unhappily assured, on account of -its formal adoption (for reasons wholly inadequate, it is true,) by -the United States Board on Geographical Names. Against the influence -of the government, with its extensive series of publications, even -though committed to the perpetuation of an error, it is idle to -contend; but it is greatly to be deplored that a feature of the Park -scenery of such commanding prominence should not bear a name at least -remotely suggestive of some natural or historical association. - -_Amethyst Mountain_ (9,423)--F: 11--1872--U. S. G. S.--Characteristic. - -_Antler Peak_ (10,200)--E: 4--1885--U. S. G. S.--Characteristic. - -_Atkins Peak_ (10,900)--N: 14--1885--U. S. G. S.--For John D. C. -Atkins, Indian Commissioner, 1885-1888. - -_Avalanche Peak_ (10,500)--L: 13--1885--U. S. G. S.--Characteristic. - -_Bannock Peak_ (10,400)--D: 4--1885--U. S. G. S.--From the name of a -tribe of Indians who inhabited the country to the south-west of the -Park, and were finally settled on a reservation in southern Idaho. -What is known as the Great Bannock Trail, passed along the valley of -Indian Creek, some distance south of this mountain. The spelling here -given is that which custom seems finally to have settled upon; but -Bannack would more nearly express the original pronunciation. The -various spellings, some sixteen in number, come from the original -_Panai'hti_, or _Bannai'hti_, meaning southern people. - -_Barlow Peak_ (9,500)--Q: 10--1895--U. S. G. S.--For Captain (now -Colonel) J. W. Barlow, Corps of Engineers, U. S. A., leader of the -military expedition which entered the Park region in 1871. His name -was first applied to the upper course of the Snake River, but was -recently transferred to a neighboring mountain peak. - -[Illustration: COLONEL J. W. BARLOW.] - -_Baronett Peak_ (10,300)--C: 13--1878--U. S. G. S.--For C. J. -Baronett, "Yellowstone Jack," a famous scout and guide, closely -connected with the history of the National Park, and builder of the -first bridge across the Yellowstone River. - -Baronett's career was adventurous beyond the average man of his class. -He was born in Glencoe, Scotland, in 1829. His father was in the -British naval service, and he early began to follow the sea. In his -multitudinous wanderings we find him on the coast of Mexico during the -Mexican War; on the Chinese coast in 1850, where he deserted his ship -and fled to San Francisco; in 1852, in Australia after gold; the next -year in Africa, still on a gold hunt; then in Australia again and in -San Francisco; next in the Arctic seas as second mate on a whaling -vessel; back in California in 1855; courier for Albert Sidney Johnston -in the Mormon War; later in Colorado and California searching for -gold; scout in the Confederate service until 1863; then in Mexico with -the French under Maximilian, who made him a captain; back in -California in 1864, and in Montana in September of the same year, -where he at once set out on a prospecting trip which took him entirely -through the region of the Yellowstone Park; later in the service of -Gen. Custer as scout in the Indian territory; then in Mexico and -finally back in Montana in 1870; finder of the lost Everts; builder of -his celebrated bridge in 1871; in the Black Hills in 1875, where he -slew a local editor who had unjustly reflected upon him in his paper; -scout in the Sioux, Nez Percé, and Bannock Wars, 1876-8; Indian trader -for many years; engaged in innumerable prospecting ventures; and -still, at the age of sixty-six, searching with his old time ardor for -the elusive yellow metal. - -[Illustration: C. J. BARONETT.] - -_Big Game Ridge_--Q-T: 9-11--1895--U. S. G. S.--Characteristic. - -_Birch Mils_ (7,300)--R: 4--1885--U. S. G. S.--Characteristic. - -_Bison Peak_ (8,800)--D: 12--1878--U. S. G. S.--Characteristic. - -_Bobcat Ridge_ (9,500)--T: 9--1895--U. S. G. S.--Characteristic. - -_Bunsen Peak_ (9,100)--D: 6--1872--U. S. G. S.--For the eminent -chemist and physicist, Robert Wilhelm Bunsen; inventor of the Bunsen -electric cell and of the Bunsen Gas Burner; co-discoverer with -Kirchoff of the principle of Spectrum Analysis; and the first thorough -investigator of the phenomena of geyser action. (See Chapter III, Part -II.) - -_Cathedral Peak_ (10,600)--J: 13--1885--U. S. G. S.--Characteristic. - -_Chittenden, Mt._ (10,100)--K: 12--1878--U. S. G. S.--"Of the -prominent peaks of this [the Absaroka] range may be mentioned Mount -Chittenden, named for Mr. George B. Chittenden, whose name has long -been identified with this survey."--Gannett.[CA] - -[CA] Page 482, Twelfth Annual Report of Dr. Hayden. - -_Cinnabar Mountain_ (7,000)--A: 5--Named prior to 1870.--"So named -from the color of its rocks, which have been mistaken for Cinnabar, -although the red color is due to iron."--Hayden. The Devil's Slide -(also named before 1870) is on this mountain. - -_Colter Peak_ (10,500)--O: 13--1885--U. S. G. S.--For John Colter. -(See Part I, Chapter III.) - -_Crags, The_ (9,000)--E: 3--1885--U. S. G. S.--Characteristic. - -_Crescent Hill_ (7,900)--D: 9--1885--U. S. G. S.--Characteristic. - -_Crow Foot Ridge_ (9,700)--D-E: 3--1885--U. S. G. S.--Characteristic. - -_Doane, Mt._ (10,500)--M: 13--1870--Washburn Party--For Lieutenant -Gustavus C. Doane, 2d Cavalry, U. S. Army, commander of the military -escort to the celebrated Wasburn Expedition of 1870. - -Lieutenant Doane was born in Illinois, May 29, 1840, and died in -Bozeman, Mont., May 5, 1892. At the age of five he went with his -parents, in wake of an ox team, to Oregon. In 1849 his family went to -California at the outbreak of the gold excitement. He remained there -ten years, in the meanwhile working his way through school. In 1862 he -entered the Union service, went east with the California Hundred, and -then joined a Massachusetts cavalry regiment. He was mustered out in -1865 as a First Lieutenant. He joined the Carpet-baggers and is said -to have become mayor of Yazoo City, Mississippi. He was appointed a -Second Lieutenant in the Regular Army in 1868, and continued in the -service until his death, attaining the rank of Captain. - -[Illustration: CAPTAIN GUSTAVUS C. DOANE.] - -Doane's whole career was actuated by a love of adventure. He had at -various times planned a voyage to the Polar regions, or an expedition -of discovery into Africa. But fate assigned him a middle ground, and -he became prominently connected with the discovery of the Upper -Yellowstone country. His part in the Expedition of 1870 is second to -none. He made the first official report upon the wonders of the -Yellowstone, and his fine descriptions have never been surpassed by -any subsequent writer. Although suffering intense physical torture -during the greater portion of the trip, it did not extinguish in him -the truly poetic ardor with which those strange phenomena seem to have -inspired him. Dr. Hayden says of this report: "I venture to state, as -my opinion, that for graphic description and thrilling interest it -has not been surpassed by any official report made to our government -since the times of Lewis and Clark."[CB] - -[CB] Page 8, Fifth Annual Report of Dr. Hayden. - -Lieutenant Doane and Mr. Langford were the first white men known to -have ascended any of the higher peaks of the Absaroka Range. From the -summit of the mountain so ascended, Mr. Langford made the first known -authentic sketch of Yellowstone Lake. This sketch was used soon after -by General Washburn in compiling an official map of that section of -country, and he was so much pleased with it that he named the mountain -from which it was taken, Mt. Langford. At Mr. Langford's request, he -named a neighboring peak, Mt. Doane. - -_Dome, The_ (9,900)--E: 4--1885--U. S. G. S.--Characteristic. - -_Druid Peak_ (9,600)--D: 12--1885--U. S. G. S.--Characteristic. - -_Dunraven Peak_ (9,700)--F: 9--1878--U. S. G. S.--"This I have named -Dunraven Peak in honor of the Earl of Dunraven, whose travels and -writings have done so much toward making this region known to our -cousins across the water."--Gannett.[CC] - -[CC] Page 478, Twelfth Annual Report of Dr. Hayden. - -Dunraven visited the Park in 1874. In 1876, he published his "Great -Divide," describing his travels in the West. The irrepressible Colonel -Norris named this peak after himself, and coupled it with Mt. Washburn -in a characteristic poem. But the United States Geological Survey -decided otherwise, and transferred the colonel's name to the -north-east corner of the Park. (See "Mt. Norris.") - -_Eagle Peak_ (10,800)--O: 14--1885--U. S. G. S.--Characteristic. - -_Echo Peak_ (9,600)--E: 4--1885--U. S. G. S.--Characteristic. - -_Electric Peak_ (11,155)--B: 4-5--1872--U. S. G. S.--From the -following circumstance, described by Mr. Henry Gannett, who ascended -the mountain with surveying instruments, July 26, 1872:[CD] - -"A thunder-shower was approaching as we neared the summit of the -mountain. I was above the others of the party, and, when about fifty -feet below the summit, the electric current began to pass through my -body. At first I felt nothing, but heard a crackling noise, similar to -a rapid discharge of sparks from a friction machine. Immediately -after, I began to feel a tingling or pricking sensation in my head and -the ends of my fingers, which, as well as the noise, increased -rapidly, until, when I reached the top, the noise, which had not -changed its character, was deafening, and my hair stood completely on -end, while the tingling, pricking sensation was absolutely painful. -Taking off my hat partially relieved it. I started down again, and met -the others twenty-five or thirty feet below the summit. They were -affected similarly, but in a less degree. One of them attempted to go -to the top, but had proceeded but a few feet when he received quite a -severe shock, which felled him as if he had stumbled. We then returned -down the mountain about three hundred feet, and to this point we still -heard and felt the electricity." - -[CD] Page 807, Sixth Annual Report of Dr. Hayden. - -_Elephant Back_ (8,600)--J: 9--1871--U. S. G. S.--Characteristic. "On -account of the almost vertical sides of this mountain, and the rounded -form of the summit, it has received the name of the Elephant's -Back."--Hayden.[CE] - -[CE] Page 98, Fifth Annual Report of Dr. Hayden. - -This name, as now applied, refers to a different feature from that -originally designated by it. Many years before the Park was -discovered, it was used to denote the long ridge of which Mt. Washburn -is the commanding summit, and which was distinctly visible from beyond -the present limits of the Park, both north and south. It so appears -upon Raynolds' map of 1860, and was so used by the Washburn -Expedition (1870), by Captain Barlow (1871), and by Captain Jones -(1873). The United States Geological Survey, however, in 1871, -transferred the name to an inconspicuous ridge more than a thousand -feet lower than the surrounding mountains. Whether the change was made -by accident or design does not appear. Captain Ludlow, as late as -1875, refers to it and deplores the fact that it had taken place. - -_Everts, Mt._ (7,900)--C: 7--1870--Washburn Party.--For Hon. Truman C. -Everts, member of the Expedition of 1870, whose terrible experience is -elsewhere alluded to. The following succinct account is from the pen -of Lieutenant Doane, and is in the main correct:[CF] - -"On the first day of his absence, he had left his horse standing -unfastened, with all his arms and equipments strapped upon his saddle; -the animal became frightened, ran away into the woods, and he was left -without even a pocket knife as a means of defense. Being very -near-sighted, and totally unused to traveling in a wild country -without guides, he became completely bewildered. He wandered down to -the Snake River Lake [Hart Lake], where he remained twelve days, -sleeping near the hot springs to keep from freezing at night, and -climbing to the summits each day in the endeavor to trace out his -proper course. Here he subsisted on thistle-roots, boiled in the -springs, and was kept up a tree the greater part of one night by a -California lion. After gathering and cooking a supply of -thistle-roots, he managed to strike the south-west point of the -[Yellowstone] Lake, and followed around the north side to the -Yellowstone [River], finally reaching our [old] camp opposite the -Grand Cañon. He was twelve days out before he thought to kindle a fire -by using the lenses of his field-glass, but afterward carried a -burning brand with him in all his wanderings. Herds of game passed by -him during the night, on many occasions when he was on the verge of -starvation. In addition to a tolerable supply of thistle-roots, he had -nothing for over thirty days but a handful of minnows and a couple of -snow-birds. Twice he went five days without food, and three days -without water, in that country which is a net-work of streams and -springs. He was found on the verge of the great plateau, above the -mouth of Gardiner's River. A heavy snow-storm had extinguished his -fire; his supply of thistle-roots was exhausted; he was partially -deranged, and perishing with cold. A large lion was killed near him, -on the trail, which he said had followed him at a short distance for -several days previously. It was a miraculous escape, considering the -utter helplessness of the man, lost in a forest wilderness, and with -the storms of winter at hand." - -[CF] Page 37, "Yellowstone Expedition of 1870." See Appendix E. - -On the thirty-seventh day of his wanderings (September 9th to October -16th), he was discovered by Jack Baronett and George A. Pritchett, -near the great trail on a high mountain a few miles west of Yancey's. -Baronett threw up a mound of stones to mark the spot. He carried -Everts in his arms the rest of that day, and passed the night on a -small tributary of Black-tail Deer Creek. The next day he was taken on -a saddle to near the mouth of the Gardiner. - -The commemoration of this adventure in the naming of Mt. Everts was an -awkward mischance. The mountain which should bear the name is Mt. -Sheridan. It was named for Everts by the Washburn Party the night -before he was lost, in recognition of his having been the first white -man (except Mr. Hedges, who was with him) known to have visited its -summit. In the writings of the Washburn Party after their return, it -is so used; one very interesting article, by Mr. Hedges, with this -name as a title, being published in the _Helena Herald_ before it was -known that Mr. Everts had been found. But the name, Mt. Everts, was -finally given to the broad plateau between the Gardiner and the -Yellowstone, a feature which is not a mountain at all, and which is -ten miles from where Everts was found. The actual locality of the -finding was erroneously supposed to be near "Rescue Creek." - -In 1871, Captain Barlow ascended the mountain which should have borne -the name of Everts, and called it Mt. Sheridan, in ignorance of its -former christening. - -_Factory Hill_ (9,500)--O: 8--1885--U. S. G. S.--The term "factory" -has at various times been applied to several different localities in -the Park, because of their striking resemblance on frosty mornings to -an active factory town. The resemblance was noted as far back as 1829. -The name has now become fixed, as above indicated. - -_Flat Mountain_ (9,000)--N: 9--1871--U. S. G. -S.--Characteristic.--This mountain had already been named by the -Washburn Party Yellow Mountain, from its color. - -_Folsom Peak_ (9,300)--E: 8--1895--U. S. G. S.--For David E. Folsom, -leader of the Expedition of 1869, and author of the first general -description of the valley of the Upper Yellowstone. - -[Illustration: DAVID E. FOLSOM.] - -_Forellen Peak_ (9,700)--T: 5--1885--U. S. G. S.--From the German name -for Trout. - -_Gallatin Range_--A-F: 1-4--Name in use prior to 1870. Raynolds has -"Mt. Gallatin" on his map. Gallatin River (see name) rises in this -range. - -_Garnet Hill_ (7,000)--C: 9--1878--U. S. G. S.--Characteristic. - -_Giant Castle_ (10,000)--K: 14-15--1873--Jones--Characteristic. - -_Gibbon Hill_ (8,600)--H: 6--1885--U. S. G. S.--From the Gibbon River. - -_Gravel Peak_ (9,600)--T: 11--U. S. G. S.--Characteristic. - -_Gray Peak_ (10,300)--C-D: 4--1885--U. S. G. S.--Characteristic. - -_Grizzly Peak_ (9,700)--L: 12--1885--U. S. G. S.--Characteristic. - -_Hancock, Mt._ (10,100)--R: 10--1871--Barlow--For General W. S. -Hancock, U. S. Army, who, as commanding officer of the Department of -Dakota, had lent his active aid in the prosecution of the Yellowstone -Explorations. - -_Hawk's Rest_ (9,800)--R: 14--1885--U. S. G. S.--Characteristic. - -_Hedges Peak_ (9,500)--G: 9--1895--U. S. G. S.--For Cornelius Hedges, -a prominent member of the Washburn Expedition, author of a series of -descriptive articles upon the trip, and first to advance and publicly -advocate the idea of setting apart that region as a National Park. - -_Holmes, Mt._ (10,300)--F: 4--1878--U. S. G. S.--For W. H. Holmes, -Geologist, U. S. Geological Survey. This peak had been previously -called Mt. Madison. - -_Horseshoe Hill_ (8,200)--E: 6--1885--U. S. G. S.--Characteristic. - -_Hoyt, Mt._ (10,400)--L: 13--1881--Norris--For the Hon. John W. Hoyt, -then Governor of Wyoming. - -_Huckleberry Mountain_ (9,700)--S: 7--1885--U. S. G. -S.--Characteristic. - -_Humphreys, Mt._ (11,000)--N: 14--1871--Barlow--For General A. A. -Humphreys, then Chief of Engineers, U. S. A. - -_Index Peak_ (11,740)--C: 16--This mountain, and Pilot Knob near it, -received their names from unknown sources prior to 1870. - -"One of them [the peaks] derives its name from its shape, like a -closed hand with the index-finger extending upward, while the other is -visible from so great a distance on every side that it forms an -excellent landmark for the wandering miner, and thus its appropriate -name of Pilot Knob."--Hayden.[CG] - -[CG] Page 48, Sixth Annual Report of Dr. Hayden. - -_Joseph Peak_ (10,300)--C: 4--1885--U. S. G. S.--For Chief Joseph, the -famous Nez Percé leader in the war of 1877. He deservedly ranks among -the most noted of the North American Indians. His remarkable conduct -of the campaign of 1877 and his uniform abstinence from those -barbarous practices which have always characterized Indian warfare, -were a marvel to all who were familiar with the facts. No Indian chief -ever commanded to such a degree the respect and even friendship of his -enemies. - -_Junction Butte_ (6,500)--D: 10--When or by whom given not known. The -name arose, of course, from the fact that this butte stands at the -junction of the two important streams, the Yellowstone and Lamar -Rivers. Barlow records that the Butte was known as "Square Butte" at -the time of his visit in 1871. - -_Lake Butte_ (8,600)--K: 11--1878--Characteristic. - -_Landmark, The_ (8,800)--F: 6--1885--U. S. G. S.--Characteristic. - -_Langford, Mt._ (10,600)--M: 13--1870--Washburn Party--For the Hon. -Nathaniel Pitt Langford, first Superintendent of the Yellowstone -National Park. - -Mr. Langford was born August 9, 1832, in Westmoreland, Oneida County, -New York. His early life was spent on his father's farm, and his -education was obtained by winter attendance at district school. At -nineteen, he became clerk in the Oneida Bank of Utica. In 1854, he -went to St. Paul, where we find him, in 1855, cashier of the banking -house of Marshall & Co., and in 1858, cashier of the Bank of the -State of Minnesota. In 1862, he went to Montana as second in command -of the Northern Overland Expedition, consisting of 130 men and 53 -wagons drawn by oxen. In 1864, he was made Collector of Internal -Revenue for the new territory. In 1868, he was appointed by President -Johnson Governor of Montana, but as this was after the Senate's -imbroglio with the President and its refusal to confirm any more -presidential appointments, he did not reach this office. He was one of -the famous Montana Vigilantes, a member of the Yellowstone Expedition -of 1870, and first Superintendent of the newly created Park. In 1872, -he was appointed National Bank Examiner for the Pacific States and -Territories, and held the office for thirteen years. He now resides in -St. Paul, Minnesota. He is author of a series of articles in -_Scribner's_ for 1871, describing the newly-discovered wonders of the -Yellowstone, and of the important work, "Vigilante Days and Ways," the -most complete history in existence of that critical period in Montana -history. - -[Illustration: NATHANIEL PITT LANGFORD.] - -The notable part which Mr. Langford bore in the discovery of the Upper -Yellowstone country, and in the creation of the Yellowstone National -Park, has been fully set forth elsewhere. He has always been its -ardent friend, and his enthusiasm upon the subject in the earlier days -of its history drew upon him the mild raillery of his friends, who -were wont to call him, "National Park" Langford--a soubriquet to -which the initials of his real name readily lent themselves. - -For the circumstance of naming Mt. Langford, see "Mt. Doane." - -_Mary Mountain_ (8,500)--J: 7--Probably so named by tourists from Mary -Lake, which rests on the summit. - -_Moran, Mt._ (12,800)--W: 5--1872--U. S. G. S.--For the artist, Thomas -Moran, who produced the picture of the Grand Cañon now in the Capitol -at Washington. - -_Needles, The_ (9,600)--E: 14--1885--U. S. G. S.--Characteristic. - -_Norris, Mt._ (9,900)--E: 13--1878--U. S. G. S.--For Philetus W. -Norris, second Superintendent of the Park, and the most conspicuous -figure in its history. - -[Illustration: PHILETUS W. NORRIS.] - -He was born at Palmyra, New York, August 17, 1821. At the age of -eight, he was tourist guide at Portage Falls on the Genesee River, New -York, and at seventeen he was in Manitoba in the service of British -fur traders. In 1842, he settled in Williams County, Ohio, where he -founded the village of Pioneer. Between 1850 and 1860 he visited the -Far West. At the outbreak of the Civil War, he entered the army and -served a short time as spy and captain of scouts. He was then placed -in charge of Rebel prisoners on Johnson's Island. He next entered -politics as member of the Ohio House of Representatives, but being -later defeated for the State Senate, he joined the United States -Sanitary Commission and went again to the front. He soon returned and -became trustee of certain landed property near the City of Detroit -belonging to officers and soldiers of both armies. These lands he -reclaimed at great expense from their original swampy condition, and -built thereon the village of Norris, now part of Detroit. In 1770, he -went west again and undertook to enter the Park region in June of that -year, but permitted the swollen condition of the streams to defeat his -project. He thus missed the honor which a few months later fell to the -Washburn Party--a misfortune which he never ceased to deplore. In -1875, he again visited the Park, and in 1877, became its second -Superintendent. In 1882, he returned to Detroit, after which he was -employed by the government to explore old Indian mounds, forts, -villages, and tombs, and to collect relics for the National Museum. He -died at Rocky Hill, Kentucky, January 14, 1885. He is author of the -following works: Five Annual Reports as Superintendent of the Park; -"The Calumet of the Coteau," a volume of verse, with much additional -matter relating to the Park; and a long series of articles on "The -Great West," published in the _Norris Suburban_ in 1876-8. - -The above sketch sufficiently discloses the salient characteristic of -Norris' career. His life was that of the pioneer, and was spent in -dealing first blows in the subjugation of a primeval wilderness. He -was "blazing trails," literally and figuratively, all his days, -leaving to others the building of the finished highway. It is -therefore not surprising that his work lacks the element of -completeness, which comes only from patient attention to details. -Nowhere is this defect more apparent than in his writings. A distinct -literary talent, and something of the poet's inspiration, were, to use -his own words, "well nigh strangled" by the "stern realities of border -life." His prose abounds in aggregations of more than one hundred -words between periods, so ill arranged and barbarously punctuated as -utterly to bewilder the reader. His verse--we have searched in vain -for a single quatrain that would justify reproduction. Nevertheless, -his writings, like his works, were always to some good purpose. They -contained much useful information, and, being widely read throughout -the West, had a large and beneficial influence. - -Perhaps no better or more generous estimate of his character can be -found than in the following words of Mr. Langford who knew him well: -"He was a good man, a true man, faithful to his friends, of very kind -heart, grateful for kindnesses, of more than ordinary personal -courage, rather vain of his poetical genius, and fond of perpetuating -his name in prominent features of scenery." - -Concerning which last characteristic it may be noted that three -mountain peaks, one geyser basin, one pass, and an uncertain number of -other features of the Park, were thought by Colonel Norris deserving -of this distinction. With inimitable fidelity to this trait of his -character, he had even selected as his final resting-place the -beautiful open glade on the south side of the Grand Cañon, just below -the Lower Falls. - -_Observation Peak_ (9,300)--G: 8--1885--U. S. G. S.--Characteristic. - -_Obsidian Cliff_ (7,800)--F: 6--1878--Norris--Characteristic. - -_Paint Pot Hill_ (7,900)--H: 6--1885--U. S. G. S.--Characteristic. - -_Pelican Cone_ (9,580)--I: 12--1885--U. S. G. S.--Near source of -Pelican Creek. - -_Pilot Knob_ (11,977)--C: 16--See "Index Peak." - -_Piñon Peak_ (9,600)--S: 10--1885--U. S. G. S.--Characteristic. - -_Prospect Peak_ (9,300)--D-E: 8--1885--U. S. G. S.--Characteristic. - -_Pyramid Peak_ (10,300)--J: 14--1895--U. S. G. S.--Characteristic. - -_Quadrant Mountain_ (10,200)--D: 4--1878--U. S. G. S.--Characteristic. - -_Red Mountain Range_--P: 7-8--U. S. G. S.--Characteristic. - -_Reservation Peak_ (10,600)--M: 14--1895--U. S. G. S.--Characteristic. - -_Roaring Mountain_ (8,000)--F: 6--1885--U. S. G. S.--"It takes its -name from the shrill, penetrating sound of the steam constantly -escaping from one or more vents near the summit."--Hague. - -_Saddle Mountain_ (11,100)--H: 15--1880--Norris--Characteristic. - -_Schurz Mt._ (10,900)--N: 14--1885--U. S. G. S.--For Carl Schurz, -Secretary of the Interior during President Hayes' administration. This -name was first given by Colonel Norris to the prominent ridge on the -west side of the Gibbon Cañon. - -_Sepulcher Mountain_ (9,500)--B-C: 5-6--The origin of this name is -unknown. The following remarks concerning it are from the pen of Prof. -Wm. H. Holmes:[CH] - -"Why this mountain received such a melancholy appellation I have not -been able to discover. So far as I know, the most important thing -buried beneath its dark mass is the secret of its structure. It is -possible that the form suggested the name." - -[CH] Page 15, Twelfth Annual Report of Dr. Hayden. - -_Sheepeater Cliffs_ (7,500)--D: 7--1879--Norris--From the name of a -tribe of Indians, the only known aboriginal occupants of what is now -the Yellowstone Park. (See Chapter II, Part II.) It was upon one of -the "ancient and but recently deserted, secluded, unknown haunts" of -these Indians, that Colonel Norris, "in rapt astonishment," stumbled -one day, and was so impressed by what he saw, that he gave the -neighboring cliff its present name. He thus describes this -retreat:[CI] - -"It is mainly carpeted with soft grass, dotted, fringed, and overhung -with small pines, firs and cedars, and, with the subdued and mingled -murmur of the rapids and cataracts above and below it, and the -laughing ripple of the gliding stream, is truly an enchanting dell--a -wind and storm sheltered refuge for the feeble remnant of a fading -race." - -[CI] Page 10, Annual Report Superintendent of the Park for 1879. - -_Sheridan Mt._ (10,250)--P: 8--1871--Barlow--For Gen. P. H. Sheridan, -who actively forwarded all the early exploring expeditions in this -region, and, at a later day, twice visited the Park. His public -warnings at this time of the danger to which the Park was exposed from -vandals, poachers, and railroad promoters, and his vigorous appeal for -its protection, had great influence in bringing about a more efficient -and enlightened policy in regard to that reservation. (See "Mt. -Everts.") - -_Signal Hills_ (9,500)--M: 12--1871--U. S. G. S.--A ridge extending -back from Signal Point on the Yellowstone Lake. - -_Silver Tip Peak_ (10,400)--K: 13--1885--U. S. G. S.--Characteristic. - -_Specimen Ridge_ (8,700)--E: 11--Name known prior to -1870.--Characteristic. (See Chapter V, Part II.) - -_Stevenson, Mt._ (10,300)--M: 13--1871--U. S. G. S.--For James -Stevenson, long prominently connected with the U. S. Geological -Survey. - -"In honor of his great services not only during the past season, but -for over twelve years of unremitting toil as my assistant, oftentimes -without pecuniary reward, and with but little of the scientific -recognition that usually comes to the original explorer, I have -desired that one of the principal islands of the lake and one of the -noble peaks reflected in its clear waters should bear his name -forever."--Hayden.[CJ] - -[CJ] Page 5, Fifth Annual Report of Dr. Hayden. - -Mr. Stevenson was born in Maysville, Ky., December 24, 1840. He early -displayed a taste for exploration and natural history, and such -reading as his limited education permitted was devoted to books -treating of these subjects. At the age of thirteen he ran away from -home and joined a party of Hudson's Bay Fur Company's traders, bound -up the Missouri River. On the same boat was Dr. F. V. Hayden, then on -his way to explore the fossiliferous region of the Upper Missouri and -Yellowstone Rivers. Noticing Stevenson's taste for natural history he -invited him to join him in his work. Stevenson accepted; and thus -began a relation which lasted for more than a quarter of a century, -and which gave direction to the rest of his life. - -[Illustration: JAMES STEVENSON.] - -He was engaged in several explorations between 1850 and 1860, -connected with the Pacific railroad surveys, and with others under -Lieutenants G. K. Warren and W. F. Raynolds. In 1861 he entered the -Union service as a private soldier, and left it in 1865 with an -officer's commission. After the war he resumed his connection with Dr. -Hayden. He was mainly instrumental in the organization of the United -States Geological Survey of the Territories in 1867, and during the -next twelve years he was constantly engaged in promoting its welfare. -When the consolidation of the various geographical and geological -surveys took place in 1879, under the name of the United States -Geological Survey, he became associated with the United States Bureau -of Ethnology. He had always shown a taste for ethnological -investigations and his scientific work during the rest of his life was -in this direction, principally among the races of New Mexico and -Arizona. He died in New York City July 25, 1888. - -In the paragraph quoted above from Dr. Hayden there is more than any -but the few who are familiar with the early history of the geological -surveys will understand. It rarely happens that a master is so far -indebted to a servant for his success, as was true of the relation of -Dr. Hayden and James Stevenson. Stevenson's great talent lay in the -organization and management of men. His administrative ability in the -field was invaluable to the Survey of which Hayden was chief, and his -extraordinary influence with Congressmen was a vital element in its -early growth. His part in the Yellowstone Explorations of 1871 and -1872 is second to none in importance. It will not be forgotten that he -was the first to build and launch a boat upon the Yellowstone Lake, -nor that he, and Mr. Langford who was with him, were the first white -men to reach the summit of the Grand Teton. - -_Storm Peak_ (9,500)--E: 8--1885--U. S. G. S.--Characteristic. - -_Survey Peak_ (9,200)--T: 4--1885--U. S. G. S. This mountain was a -prominent signaling point for the Indians. It was first named Monument -Peak by Richard Leigh who built a stone mound on its summit. - -_Table Mountain_ (10,800)--O: 14--1885--U. S. G. S.--Characteristic. - -_Terrace Mountain_ (8,100)--C: 6--1878--U. S. G. S.--Characteristic. - -_Teton, Grand_ (13,691)--Not on Map.--This mountain has borne its -present name for upward of four score years. Through more than half a -century it was a cynosure to the wandering trapper, miner and -explorer. The name has passed into all the literature of that period, -which will ever remain one of the most fascinating in our western -history. Indeed, it has become the classic designation of the most -interesting historic summit of the Rocky Mountains. That it should -always retain this designation in memory of the nameless pioneers who -have been guided by it across the wilderness, and thousands of whom -have perished beneath its shadow, would seem to be a self-evident -proposition. Individual merit, no matter how great, can never justify -the usurpation of its place by any personal name whatever. An attempt -to do this was made in 1872 by the United States Geological Survey who -rechristened it Mt. Hayden. The new name has never gained any local -standing, and although it has crept into many maps its continued use -ought to be discouraged. It is greatly to the credit of Dr. Hayden -that he personally disapproved the change, so far at least, as very -rarely, if ever, to refer to the mountain by its new name. - -_Three Rivers Peak_ (9,900)--E: 4--1885--U. S. G. S.--Branches of the -Madison, Gallatin and Gardiner Rivers take their rise from its slopes. - -_Thunderer, The_ (10,400)--D: 14--1885--U. S. G. S.--Seemingly a great -focus for thunder storms. - -_Top Notch Peak_ (10,000)--L: 13--1895--U. S. G. S.--Characteristic. - -_Trident, The_ (10,000)--Q-R: 14--1885--U. S. G. S.--Characteristic. - -_Trilobite Point_ (9,900)--F: 4--1885--U. S. G. S.--Characteristic. - -_Turret Mountain_ (10,400)--P: 14--1878--Characteristic.--Called by -Captain Jones "Round-head or Watch Tower." - -_Twin Buttes_ (8,400)--K: 14--1870--Washburn Party.--Characteristic. - -_Washburn, Mt._ (10,000)--F: 9--1870--Washburn Party.--For General -Henry Dana Washburn, chief of the Yellowstone Expedition of 1870. - -General Washburn was born in Windsor, Vt., March 28, 1832. His parents -moved to Ohio during his infancy. He received a common school -education and at fourteen began teaching school. He entered Oberlin -College, but did not complete his course. At eighteen he went to -Indiana where he resumed school-teaching. At twenty-one he entered the -New York State and National Law School, from which he graduated. At -twenty-three he was elected auditor of Vermilion county, Indiana. - -His war record was a highly honorable one. He entered the army as -private in 1861 and left it as brevet brigadier-general in 1865. His -service was mainly identified with the Eighteenth Indiana, of which he -became colonel. He was in several of the western campaigns, notably in -that of Vicksburg, in which he bore a prominent part. In the last year -of the war he was with Sherman's army, and for a short time after its -close was in command of a military district in southern Georgia. In -1864, he was elected to Congress over the Hon. Daniel W. Voorhees, and -again, in 1866, over the Hon. Solomon W. Claypool. At the expiration -of his second term he was appointed by President Grant, -surveyor-general of Montana, which office he held until his death. - -[Illustration: GEN. HENRY DANA WASHBURN.] - -It was during his residence in Montana that the famous Yellowstone -Expedition of 1870 took place. His part in that important work is -perhaps the most notable feature of his career. As leader of the -expedition he won the admiration and affection of its members. He was -the first to send to Washington specimens from the geyser formations. -He ardently espoused the project of setting apart this region as a -public park and was on his way to Washington in its interest when his -career was cut short by death. The hardship and exposure of the -expedition had precipitated the catastrophe to which he had long been -tending. He left Helena in November, 1870, and died of consumption at -his home in Clinton, Indiana, January 26, 1871. - -General Washburn's name was given to this mountain by a unanimous vote -of the party on the evening of August 28, 1870, as a result of the -following incident related by Mr. Langford: - -"Our first Sunday in camp was at Tower Creek. The forest around us was -very dense, and we were somewhat at a loss in deciding what course we -needed to follow in order to reach Yellowstone Lake. We had that day -crossed a _fresh_ Indian trail, a circumstance which admonished us of -the necessity of watchfulness so as to avoid disaster. While we were -resting in camp, General Washburn, without our knowledge, and -unattended, made his way to the mountain, from the summit of which, -overlooking the dense forest which environed us, he saw Yellowstone -Lake, our objective point, and carefully noted its direction from our -camp. This intelligence was most joyfully received by us, for it -relieved our minds of all anxiety concerning our course of travel, and -dispelled the fears of some of our party lest we should become -inextricably involved in that wooded labyrinth." - -_White Peaks_ (9,800)--F : 4--1895--U. S. G. S.--Characteristic. - -_Wild Cat Peak_ (9,800)--T : 8--1885--U. S. G. S.--Characteristic. - -_Yount Peak_ (Hayden, 11,700; Hague, 12,250)--Not on map.--1878--U. S. -G. S.--Source of the Yellowstone.--Named for an old trapper and guide -of that region. - - -APPENDIX A. - -III. - -STREAMS. - - [Map locations refer only to outlets, or to points where streams - pass off the limits of the map. Altitudes refer to the same points, - but are given only in the most important cases.] - -_Agate Creek_--E : 10--1878--U. S. G. S.--Characteristic. - -_Alum Creek_--H : 9--Name known prior to 1870--Characteristic. - -_Amethyst Greek_--E : 12--1878--U. S. G. S.--Flows from Amethyst -Mountain. - -_Amphitheater Creek_--D : 13--1885--U. S. G. S.--From form of valley -near its mouth. - -_Antelope Creek_--E : 10--1870--Washburn Party--Characteristic.--This -name is often applied locally to a tributary of the Yellowstone just -above Trout Creek. - -_Arnica Creek_--L : 8--1885--U. S. G. S.--Characteristic. - -_Aster Creek_--P : 7--1885--U. S. G. S.--Characteristic. - -_Astrigent Creek_--J : 12--1885--U. S. G. S.--Characteristic. - -_Atlantic Creek_--S : 13--1873--Jones--Flows from Two-Ocean-Pass down -the Atlantic slope. - -_Badger Creek_--P : 13--1885--U. S. G. S.--Characteristic. - -_Basin Creek_--Q : 9--1885--U. S. G. S.--Characteristic. - -_Bear Creek_--B : 7--1863--Party of prospectors under one Austin. On -the way they found fair prospects in a creek on the east side of the -Yellowstone, and finding also a hairless cub, called the gulch -"Bear."--Topping. - -_Bear Creek_--K : 11--1885--U. S. G. S.--Characteristic. - -_Beaver Creek_--O : 9--1885--U. S. G. S.--Characteristic. - -_Beaver Dam Creek_--O : 12--1871--U. S. G. S.--Characteristic. - -_Bechler River_--R : 1--1872--U. S. G. S.--For Gustavus R. Bechler, -topographer on the Snake River Division of the Hayden Expedition of -1872. - -_Berry Creek_--U : 6--1885--U. S. G. S.--Characteristic. - -_Black-tail Deer Creek_--B : 8--Named prior to 1870--Characteristic. - -_Bluff Creek_--H : 10--1885--U. S. G. S.--Characteristic. - -_Bog Creek_--H : 10--1885--U. S. G. S.--Characteristic. - -_Boone Creek_--T : 1--Named prior to 1870--For Robert Withrow, an -eccentric pioneer of Irish descent, who used to call himself "Daniel -Boone the Second." - -_Bridge Creek_--K : 9--1871--U. S. G. S.--Characteristic. - -"At one point, soon after leaving camp, we found a most singular -natural bridge of the trachyte, which gives passage to a small stream, -which we called Bridge Creek."--Hayden. - -"Natural Bridge" is really over a branch of Bridge Creek. - -_Broad Creek_--F : 10--1871--Barlow--Characteristic. - -_Buffalo Creek_--D : 11--Prior to 1870--Naming party -unknown--Characteristic. - -_Burnt Creek_--E : 10--1885--U. S. G. S.--Characteristic. - -_Cache Creek_--F : 13--1863--Prospecting party under one Austin were -in camp on this stream when they were surprised by Indians, and all -their stock stolen except one or two mules. Being unable to carry all -their baggage from this point, they _cached_ what they could not place -on the mules, or could not themselves carry. From this circumstance -arose the name. - -_Calfee Creek_--F : 13--1880--Norris--For H. B. Calfee, a photographer -of note. - -"Some seven miles above Cache Creek we passed the mouth of another -stream in a deep, narrow, timbered valley, which we named Calfee -Creek, after the famous photographer of the Park. Five miles further -on, we reached the creek which Miller recognized as the one he -descended in retreating from the Indians in 1870, and which, on this -account, we called Miller's Creek."--Norris.[CK] - -[CK] Page 7, Annual Report Superintendent of the Park for 1880. - -_Cañon Creek_--1 : 5--1885--U. S. G. S.--Characteristic. - -_Carnelian Creek_--E : 9--1885--U. S. G. S.--Characteristic. - -_Cascade Creek_--G : 8--1870--Washburn Party--Characteristic. - -_Chalcedony Creek_--E : 12--1885--U. S. G. S.--Characteristic. - -_Chipmunk Creek_--O : 11--1885--U. S. G. S.--Characteristic. - -_Clear Creek_--L : 11--1878--U. S. G. S.--Characteristic. - -_Cliff Creek_--Q : 13--1885--U. S. G. S.--Characteristic. - -_Clover Creek_--G : 13--1885--U. S. G. S.--Characteristic. - -_Cold Creek_--H : 14--1885--U. S. G. S.--Characteristic. - -_Columbine Creek_--M : 11--1885--U. S. G. S.--Characteristic. - -_Conant Creek_--T : 1--Prior to 1870--By Richard Leigh for one All -Conant, who went to the mountains in 1865, and who came near losing -his life on this stream. - -_Cotton Grass Creek_--H : 9--1885--U. S. G. S.--Characteristic. - -_Cougar Creek_--G : 2--1885--U. S. G. S.--Characteristic. - -_Coulter Creek_--R : 8--1885--U. S. G. S.--For John M. Coulter, -botanist in the Hayden Expedition of 1872. - -_Crawfish Creek_--R : 6--1885--U. S. G. S--Characteristic. - -_Crevice Creek_--C : 7--1867--Prospecting party under one Lou -Anderson. - -"They found gold in a crevice at the mouth of the first Stream above -Bear, and named it, in consequence, Crevice Gulch. Hubbel went ahead -the next day for a hunt, and upon his return he was asked what kind of -a stream the next creek was. "It's a hell roarer," was his reply, and -Hell Roaring is its name to this day. The second day after this, he -was again ahead, and, the same question being asked him, he said: -"'Twas but a slough." When the party came to it, they found a rushing -torrent, and, in crossing, a pack horse and his load were swept away, -but the name of Slough Creek remains."--Topping. - -_Crooked Creek_--R : 10--1885--U. S. G. S.--Characteristic. - -_Crow Creek_--K : 15--1885--U. S. G. S.--Characteristic. - -_Crystal Creek_--D : 11--1885--U. S. G. S.--Characteristic. - -_Cub Creek_--L : 11--1885--U. S. G. S.--Characteristic. - -_Deep Creek_--E : 10--1873--Jones--Characteristic. - -_De Lacy Creek_--M : 6--1880--Norris--For Walter W. De Lacy, first -white man known to have passed along the valley. (See "Shoshone -Lake.") First named Madison Creek by the Hayden party in 1871. - -_Duck Creek_--G : 3--1895--U. S. G. S.--Characteristic. - -_Elk Creek_--D : 9--Named prior to 1870--Characteristic. - -_Elk Tongue Creek_--C : 12--U. S. G. S.--Characteristic. - -_Escarpment Creek_--Q : 13--1885--U. S. G. S.--Characteristic. - -_Fairy Creek_--J : 4--1871--Barlow--From "Fairy Falls," which see. - -_Falcon Creek_--R : 13--1885--U. S. G. S.--Characteristic. - -_Falls River_--S : 1--1872--U. S. G. S.--Characteristic. - -_Fan Creek_--C : 2--1885--U. S. G. S.--Characteristic. - -_Fawn Creek_--C : 5--1878--U. S. G. S.--Characteristic. - -_Firehole River_--I : 4--This name and "Burnt Hole" have been used to -designate the geyser basins and the stream flowing through them since -at least as far back as 1830. Captain Bonneville says it was well -known to his men. The term "Hole" is a relic of the early days when -the open valleys or parks among the mountains were called "holes." The -descriptive "fire, naturally arose from the peculiar character of -that region." - -_Firehole, Little_--L : 4--1878--U. S. G. S.--From main stream. - -_Flint Creek_--F : 13--1885--U. S. G. S.--Characteristic. - -_Forest Creek_--Q : 7--1885--U. S. G. S--Characteristic. - -_Fox Creek_--R : 11--1885--U. S. G. S.--Characteristic. - -_Gallatin River_--A : 1--1805--Lewis and Clark--For Albert Gallatin, -Secretary of War under President Jefferson. - -_Gardiner River_ (5360)--B : 6--This name, which, after "Yellowstone," -is the most familiar and important name in the Park, is the most -difficult to account for. The first authentic use of the name occurs -in 1870, in the writings of the Washburn party. In Mr. Langford's -journal, kept during the expedition, is the following entry for August -25, 1870: "At nineteen miles from our morning camp we came to Gardiner -River, at the mouth of which we camped." As the party did not -originate the name, and as they make no special reference to it in any -of their writings, it seems clear that it must already have been known -to them at the time of their arrival at the stream. None of the -surviving members has the least recollection concerning it. The stream -had been known to prospectors during the preceding few years as Warm -Spring Creek, and the many "old timers" consulted on the subject -erroneously think that the present name was given by the Washburn -Party or by the Hayden Party of 1871. What is its real origin is -therefore a good deal of a mystery. - -The only clue, and that not a satisfactory one, which has come under -our observation, is to be found in the book "River of the West," -already quoted. Reference is there made to a trapper by the name of -Gardiner, who lived in the Upper Yellowstone country as far back as -1830, and was at one time a companion of Joseph Meek, the hero of the -book. In another place it is stated that in 1838, Meek started alone -from Missouri Lake (probably Red Rock Lake) "for the Gallatin Fork of -the Missouri, trapping in a mountain basin called Gardiner's Hole.... -On his return, in another basin called Burnt Hole, he found a buffalo -skull, etc." As is well known, the sources of the Gallatin and -Gardiner are interlaced with each other, and this reference strongly -points to the present Gardiner Valley as "Gardiner's Hole." The route -across the Gallatin Range to Mammoth Hot Springs, and thence back by -way of the Firehole Basin, was doubtless a natural one then as it is -now. It is therefore reasonable to suppose that this name came from an -old hunter in the early years of the century, and that the Washburn -Party received it from some surviving descendant of those times. - -_Geode Creek_--C : 8--1878--U. S. G. S.--Characteristic. - -_Geyser Creek_--H : 6--1878--U. S. G. S.--Characteristic. - -_Gibbon River_--I : 4--1872--U. S. G. S.--For Gen. John Gibbon, U. S. -A., who first explored it. - -"We have named this stream in honor of Gen. John Gibbon, United States -Army, who has been in military command of Montana for some years, and -has, on many occasions, rendered the survey most important -services."--Hayden.[CL] - -[CL] Page 55, Sixth Annual Report of Dr. Hayden. - -_Glade Creek_--S : 6--1885--U. S. G. S.--Characteristic. - -_Glen Creek_--C : 6--1885--U. S. G. S.--Characteristic. - -_Gneiss Creek_--G : 1--1885--U. S. G. S.--Characteristic. - -_Gravel Creek_--U : 10--1895--U. S. G. S.--Characteristic. - -_Grayling Creek_--F : 1--1885--U. S. G. S.--Characteristic. - -_Grouse Creek_--O : 10--1885--U. S. G. S.--Characteristic. - -_Harebell Creek_--R : 8--1885--U. S. G. S.--Characteristic. - -_Hart River_--Q : 9--1872--U. S. G. S.--From Hart Lake, of which it is -the outlet. (See "Hart Lake.") - -_Hell Roaring Creek_--C : 9--1867--"See Crevice Creek." - -_Indian Creek_--E : 6--1878--U. S. G. S.--See "Bannock Peak." - -_Iron Creek_--L : 4--1871--U. S. G. S.--Characteristic. - -_Jasper Creek_--D : 11--1885--U. S. G. S.--Characteristic. - -_Jay Creek_--S : 13--1885--U. S. G. S.--Characteristic. - -_Jones Creek_--K : 15--1880--Norris--For Captain (now -Lieutenant-Colonel) W. A. Jones, Corps of Engineers, U. S. A., who -first explored it. Captain Jones was leader of an important expedition -through the Park in 1873, and has since been largely identified with -the development of the Park road system. - -_Jumper Creek_--J : 6--1885--U. S. G. S.--Characteristic. - -_Lamar River_ (5,970)--D : 10--1885--U. S. G. S.--For the Hon. L. Q. -C. Lamar, Secretary of the Interior during the first administration of -President Cleveland. The stream is locally known only by its original -designation, the "East Fork of the Yellowstone." - -_Lava Creek_--D : 7--1885--U. S. G. S.--Characteristic. - -_Lewis River_--R : 7--1872--U. S. G. S.--From "Lewis Lake," which see. - -_Lizard Creek_--U : 6--1885--U. S. G. S.--Characteristic. - -_Lost Creek_--D : 9--1885--U. S. G. S.--Characteristic. - -_Lupine Creek_--D : 7--1885--U. S. G. S.--Characteristic. - -_Lynx Creek_--Q : 13--1885--U. S. G. S.--Characteristic. - -_Madison River_--G : 1--1805--Lewis and Clark--For James Madison, -Secretary of State to Thomas Jefferson. - -_Magpie Creek_--J : 6--1885--U. S. G. S.--Characteristic. - -_Maple Creek_--G : 2--1885--U. S. G. S.--Characteristic. - -_Mason Creek_--L : 16--1881--Norris--For Major Julius W. Mason, U. S. -A., commander of escort to Gov. Hoyt, of Wyoming, on the latter's -reconnaissance for a wagon road to the Park in 1881. - -_Meadow Creek_--M : 11--1885--U. S. G. S.--Characteristic. - -_Middle Creek_--L : 15--1885--U. S. G. S.--Characteristic. - -_Miller Creek_--G : 13--1880--Norris--For a mountaineer named Miller. -See "Calfee Creek." - -_Mink Creek_--T : 11--1885--U. S. G. S.--Characteristic. - -_Mist Creek_--I : 14--1885--U. S. G. S.--Characteristic. - -_Moose Creek_--N : 6--1885--U. S. G. S.--Characteristic. - -_Moss Creek_--G : 10--1885--U. S. G. S.--Characteristic. - -_Mountain Creek_--P : 13--1885--U. S. G. S.--Characteristic. - -_Mountain Ash Creek_--R : 3--1885--U. S. G. S.--Characteristic. - -_Nez Percé Creek_ (7,237)--J : 4--1878--U. S. G. S.--The Nez Percé -Indians passed up this stream on their raid through the Park in 1877. -It had previously been called "East Fork of the Firehole." Prof. -Bradley, of the U. S. Geological Survey, christened it Hayden's Fork -in 1872. (See Chapter XIII, Part I.) - -_Obsidian Creek_--E : 6--1879--Norris--Characteristic. - -_Opal Creek_--E : 12--1885--U. S. G. S.--Characteristic. - -_Otter Creek_--H : 8--1885--U. S. G. S.--Characteristic. - -_Outlet Creek_--P : 9--1895--U. S. G. S.--Characteristic. - -_Owl Creek_--T : 5--1885--U. S. G. S.--Characteristic. - -_Pacific Creek_--W : 11--1873--Jones--Flows from Two-Ocean Pass down -the Pacific slope. - -_Panther Creek_--D : 5--1878--U. S. G. S.--Characteristic. - -_Pebble Creek_--D : 13--1885--U. S. G. S.--Characteristic. - -_Pelican Creek_--K : 10--Probably named by the Washburn Party in 1870. -Hayden and Barlow, in 1871, use the name as though it were already a -fixture. Mr. Hedges says of this stream: - -"About the mouth of the little stream that we had just crossed were -numerous shallows and bars, which were covered by the acre with ducks, -geese, huge white-breasted cranes, and long-beaked pelicans, while the -solitary albatross, or sea-gull, circled above our heads with a saucy -look that drew many a random shot, and cost one, at least, its life." - -_Phlox Creek_--Q : 13--1885--U. S. G. S.--Characteristic. - -_Plateau Creek_--C : 12--1885--U. S. G. S.--Characteristic. - -_Polecat Creek_--S : 6--1885--U. S. G. S.--Characteristic. - -_Quartz Creek_--E : 10--1885--U. S. G. S.--Characteristic. - -_Rabbit Creek_--K : 4--1885--U. S. G. S.--Characteristic. - -_Raven Creek_--J: 12--1885--U. S. G. S.--Characteristic. - -_Red Creek_--Q: 8--1885--U. S. G. S.--Characteristic. - -_Rescue Creek_--C: 7--1878--U. S. G. S.--Where Everts was not found. -(See "Mt. Everts.") - -_Rocky Creek_--O: 12--1885--U. S. G. S.--Characteristic. - -_Rose Creek_--D: 12--1885--U. S. G. S.--Characteristic. - -_Sedge Creek_--K: 11--1885--U. S. G. S.--Characteristic. - -_Senecio Creek_--S: 13--1885--U. S. G. S.--Characteristic. - -_Sentinel Creek_--J: 4--1872--U. S. G. S.--"The two central ones -[geyser mounds] are the highest, and appear so much as if they were -guarding the Upper Valley, that this stream was called Sentinel -Branch." Bradley. - -_Shallow Creek_--F: 11--1895--U. S. G. S.--Characteristic. - -_Sickle Creek_--Q: 10--1885--U. S. G. S.--Characteristic. - -_Slough Creek_--D: 10--1867--See "Crevice Creek." - -_Snake River_ (6,808)--W: 8--1805--Lewis and Clark--From the Snake or -Shoshone Indians, who dwelt in its valley. - -_Soda Butte Creek_--E: 12--Probably named by miners prior to 1870. -From an extinct geyser or hot spring cone near the mouth of the -stream. - -_Solfatara Creek_--G: 6--1885--U. S. G. S.--Characteristic. - -_Solution Creek_--M: 8--1885--U. S. G. S.--The outlet of Riddle Lake. - -_Sour Creek_--H: 9--1871--Barlow--Characteristic. - -_Spirea Creek_--R: 6--1885--U. S. G. S.--Characteristic. - -_Spring Creek_--M: 5--1885--U. S. G. S.--Characteristic. - -_Spruce Creek_--J: 6--1885--U. S. G. S.--Characteristic. - -_Squirrel Creek_--N: 5--1878--U. S. G. S.--Characteristic. - -_Stellaria Creek_--C: 3--1885--U. S. G. S.--Characteristic. - -_Stinkingwater River_--L: 16--1807--John Colter--From an offensive hot -spring near the junction of the principal forks of the stream. A most -interesting fact, to which attention was first publicly called by -Prof. Arnold Hague, is the occurrence on the map, which Lewis and -Clark sent to President Jefferson in the spring of 1805, of the name -"Stinking Cabin Creek," very nearly in the locality of the river -Stinkingwater. Prof. Hague, who published an interesting paper -concerning this map in _Science_ for November 4, 1877, thinks that -possibly some trapper had penetrated this region even before 1804. But -with Lewis and Clark's repeated statements that no white man had -reached the Yellowstone prior to 1805, it seems more likely that the -name was derived from the Indians. - -_Straight Creek_--E: 5--1885--U. S. G. S.--Characteristic. - -_Sulphur Creek_--G: 9--1878--U. S. G. S.--Characteristic.--Locally -this name is applied to a stream which flows from the hot springs at -the base of Sulphur Mountain. - -_Surface Creek_--G: 9--1885--U. S. G. S.--Characteristic. - -_Surprise Creek_--P: 9--1885--U. S. G. S.--Its course, as made known -by recent explorations, was surprisingly different from that which -earlier explorations had indicated. - -_Tangled Creek_--J: 4--1885--U. S. G. S.--Characteristic.--A hot water -stream which flows in numberless interlaced channels. - -_Thistle Creek_--J: 10--1885--U. S. G. S.--Characteristic. - -_Thoroughfare Creek_--R: 13--1885--U. S. G. S.--Its valley forms part -of a very practicable route across the Yellowstone Range. - -_Timothy Creek_--G: 13--1885--U. S. G. S.--Characteristic. - -_Tower Creek_--D: 10--1870--Washburn Party--From "Tower Falls," which -see. - -_Trail Creek_--O: 12--1873--Jones--From an elk trail along it. - -_Trappers' Creek_--P: 13--1885--U. S. G. S.--A great beaver resort. - -_Trout Greek_--I: 9--1885--U. S. G. S.--Characteristic. - -_Violet Creek_--I: 8--1872--U. S. G. S.--Characteristic.--"We named -the small stream Violet Creek, from the profusion of violets growing -upon its banks." Peale. - -_Weasel Creek_--K: 9--1895--U. S. G. S.--Characteristic. - -_Willow Creek_--H: 14--1885--U. S. G. S.--Characteristic. - -_Winter Creek_--E: 6--1885--U. S. G. S.--Characteristic. - -_Witch Creek_--O: 8--1878--U. S. G. S.--Probably from the prevalence -of hot springs phenomena along its entire course. - -_Wolverine Creek_--R: 8--1885--U. S. G. S.--Characteristic. - -_Yellowstone River_ (8,100 and 5,360)--U: 16 (enters map); A: 5 -(leaves map).--See Part I, Chapter I. - - -APPENDIX A. - -IV. - -WATER-FALLS. - - [Figures in parentheses indicate approximate heights of falls in - feet. These in most cases are not to be relied upon as strictly - accurate, there having been no published record of actual - measurements, except in the case of the Yellowstone Falls.] - -_Collonade Falls_--F: 3--1885--U. S. G. S.--Characteristic. - -_Crystal Falls_ (129)--G: 8--1870--Washburn -Party.--Characteristic.--The total fall includes three cascades. - -_Fairy Fall_ (250)--K: 4--1871--Barlow.--Characteristic. - -_Firehole Falls_ (60)--I: 4--Takes name from river. - -_Gibbon Falls_ (80)--I: 5--Takes name from river. - -_Iris Falls_--P: 3--1885--U. S. G. S.--Characteristic. - -_Kepler Cascade_ (80)--L: 5--1881--Norris.--For the son of Hon. John -W. Hoyt, Ex-Governor of Wyoming, who accompanied his father on a -reconnaissance for a wagon road to the Park in 1881. Norris speaks of -him as "an intrepid twelve-year old" boy who "unflinchingly shared in -all the hardships, privations, and dangers of the explorations of his -father," which included many hundred miles of travel on horseback -through that difficult country; and in admiration for the lad's pluck, -he named this cascade in his honor. - -_Lewis Falls, Upper_ (80)--P: 7--Takes name from river. - -_Lewis Falls, Lower_ (50)--Q: 7--Takes name from river. - -_Moose Falls_--R: 6--1885--U. S. G. S.--Characteristic. - -_Mystic Falls_--L: 4--1885--U. S. G. S.--Characteristic. - -_Osprey Falls_ (150)--D: 6--1885--U. S. G. S. - -_Ouzel Falls_--P: 3--1885--U. S. G. S.--Characteristic. - -_Rainbow Falls_ (140)--R: 4--1885--U. S. G. -S.--Characteristic.--Height includes total of three falls. - -_Rustic Falls_ (70)--D: 6--1878--Norris--Characteristic. - -_Silver Cord Cascade_--G: 9--1885--U. S. G. S.--Characteristic. - -_Terraced Falls_--R: 4--1885--U. S. G. S.--Characteristic. - -_Tower Falls_ (132)--D: 10--1870--Washburn Party--Characteristic. - -"By a vote of a majority of the party this fall was called Tower -Fall."--Washburn. - -"At the crest of the fall the stream has cut its way through -amygdaloid masses, leaving tall spires of rock from 50 to 100 feet in -height, and worn in every conceivable shape.... Several of them stand -like sentinels on the very brink of the fall."--Doane. - -_Undine Falls_ (60)--D: 7--1885--U. S. G. S.--Characteristic. - -_Union Falls_--Q: 4--1885--U. S. G. S.--Characteristic. - -_Virginia Cascade_ (60)--H: 7--1886--By E. Lamartine, at that time -foreman in charge of government work in Park.--For the wife of the -Hon. Chas. Gibson, President of the Yellowstone Park Association. - -_Wraith Falls_ (100)--D: 7--1885--U. S. G. S.--Characteristic. - -_Yellowstone Falls_ (Upper 112; Lower 310)--H: 9--From the river which -flows over them.[CM] - -[CM] Record of the various measurements of the Upper and Lower Falls -of the Yellowstone River. - -Folsom (1869) Upper Fall, 115 feet. Method not stated. Lower Fall, 350 -feet. Method not stated. - -Doane (1870) Upper Fall, 115 feet. Line. - -Langford (1870) Lower Fall, 350 feet. Line stretched on an incline. - -Moore's Sketch (1870) Lower Fall, 365 feet. Method not stated. - -Hayden (1871) Upper Fall, 140 feet. Method not stated. Lower Fall, 350 -feet. Method not stated. - -Gannett (1872) Upper Fall, 140 feet. Barometer. Lower Fall, 395 feet. -Comparison of angles subtended by Falls and by a tree of known height. - -Jones (1873) Upper Fall, 150 feet. Barometer. Lower Fall, 329 feet. -Barometer. - -Ludlow (1875) Upper Fall, 110 feet. Line. Lower Fall, 310 feet. Line. - -Gannett (1878) Upper Fall, 112 feet. Line. Lower Fall, 297 feet. Line -stretched on an incline. - -U. S. G. S. (Recent) Upper Fall, 109 feet. Method not stated. Lower -Fall, 308 feet. Method not stated. - -Chittenden (1892) Upper Fall, 112 feet between point of first descent -and level of pool below. Measured by means of a transit instrument. -Width of gorge at brink of fall, and a few feet above water surface, -48 feet. - - -APPENDIX A. - -V. - -LAKES. - - [Figures in parentheses denote elevations.] - -_Beach Lake_ (8,150)--K: 8--1885--U. S. G. S.--Characteristic. - -_Beaver Lake_ (7,415)--F: 6--1879--Norris--Characteristic. - -_Beula Lake_ (7,530)--R: 5--1872--U. S. G. S.--Characteristic. - -[Illustration: JAMES BRIDGER.] - -_Bridger Lake_ (7,900)--R: 13--Name a fixture prior to 1870.--For -James Bridger, the Daniel Boone of the Rockies, and one of the most -remarkable products of the trapping and gold-seeking eras. - -He was born in Richmond, Va., in March, 1804, and died in Washington, -Jackson Co., Mo., July 17, 1881. He must have gone west at a very -early age for he is known to have been in the mountains in 1820. -_Niles Register_ for 1822 speaks of him as associated with Fitzpatrick -in the Rocky Mountain Fur Company. Another record of this period -reveals him as leader of a band of whites sent to retake stolen horses -from the hostile Bannocks. In 1832, he had become a resident partner -in the Rocky Mountain Fur Company. That he was a recognized leader -among the early mountaineers while yet in his minority seems beyond -question. He became "The Old Man of the Mountains" before he was -thirty years of age. - -Among the more prominent achievements of Bridger's life may be noted -the following: He was long a leading spirit in the great Rocky -Mountain Fur Company. He discovered Great Salt Lake and the noted Pass -that bears his name. He built Fort Bridger in the lovely valley of -Black Fork of Green River, where transpired many thrilling events -connected with the history of the Mormons and "Forty-niners." He had -explored, and could accurately describe, the wonders of the -Yellowstone fully a quarter of a century before their final discovery. - -In person he was tall and spare, straight and agile, eyes gray, hair -brown and long, and abundant even in old age; expression mild, and -manners agreeable. He was hospitable and generous, and was always -trusted and respected. He possessed to a high degree the confidence of -the Indians, one of whom, a Shoshone woman, he made his wife. - -Unquestionably Bridger's chief claim to remembrance by posterity rests -upon the extraordinary part he bore in the exploration of the West. -The common verdict of his many employers, from Robert Campbell down to -Captain Raynolds, is that as a guide he was without an equal. He was -a born topographer. The whole West was mapped out in his mind as in an -exhaustive atlas. Such was his instinctive sense of locality and -direction that it used to be said that he could "smell his way" where -he could not see it. He was not only a good topographer in the field, -but he could reproduce his impressions in sketches. "With a buffalo -skin and a piece of charcoal," says Captain Gunnison, "he will map out -any portion of this immense region, and delineate mountains, streams, -and the circular valleys, called 'holes,' with wonderful accuracy." -His ability in this line caused him always to be in demand as guide to -exploring parties, and his name is connected with scores of prominent -government and private expeditions. - -His lifetime measures that period of our history during which the West -was changed from a trackless wilderness to a settled and civilized -country. He was among the first who went to the mountains, and he -lived to see all that had made a life like his possible swept away -forever. His name survives in many a feature of our western geography, -but in none with greater honor than in this little lake among the -mountains that he knew so well; and near the source of that majestic -stream with which so much of his eventful life was identified. - -_Delusion Lake_ (7,850)--M: 9--1878--U. S. G. S.--This lake was long -supposed to be an arm of the Yellowstone Lake, and, in the fanciful -comparison of the main lake to the form of the human hand, occupied -the position of the index finger. The delusion consisted in this -mistaken notion of a permanent connection between the two lakes. - -_Dryad Lake_ (8,250)--K: 8--1885--U. S. G. S.--Characteristic. - -_Duck Lake_ (7,850)--M: 7--1885--U. S. G. S.--Characteristic. - -_Fern Lake_ (8,150)--H: 11--1885--U. S. G. S.--Characteristic. - -_Frost Lake_--(7,350)--I: 14--Unknown-Characteristic. - -_Gallatin Lake_ (9,000)--E: 4--1885--U. S. G. S.--Source of the -Gallatin River. - -_Goose Lake_ (7,100)--K: 4--1885--U. S. G. S.--Characteristic. - -_Grassy Lake_ (7,150)--R: 5--1885--U. S. G. S.--Characteristic. - -_Grebe Lake_ (7,950)--G: 8--1885--U. S. G. S.--Characteristic. - -_Grizzly Lake_ (7,490)--F: 5--1885--U. S. G. S.--Characteristic. - -_Hart Lake_ (7,469)--P: 9--According to Hayden, "long known to the -hunters of the region as Heart Lake." Named prior to 1870 for an old -hunter by the name of Hart Hunney who in early times plied his trade -in this vicinity. He was possibly one of Bonneville's men, for he -seems to have known the General well and to have been familiar with -his operations. He was killed by a war party of Crows in 1852. - -The spelling, _Heart_, dates from the expeditions of 1871. The notion -that the name arose from the shape of the lake seems to have -originated with Captain Barlow. It has generally been accepted -although there is really no similarity between the form of the lake -and that of a heart. Lewis Lake is the only heart-shaped lake in that -locality. - -Everts named Hart Lake, Bessie Lake, after his daughter. - -_Henry Lake_ (6,443)--A noted lake outside the limits of the Park -passed by tourists entering the park from the west. It is named for a -celebrated fur trader, Andrew Henry, who built a trading post in that -vicinity in 1809. - -_Hering Lake_ (7,530)--R: 5--1878--U. S. G. S.--For Rudolph Hering, -Topographer on the Snake River Division of the Hayden Survey for 1872. - -_Indian Pond_--J: 11--1880--Norris.--An ancient, much-used -camping-ground of Indians. "My favorite camp on the Yellowstone Lake -(and it evidently has been a favorite one for the Indian) has ever -been upon the grove-dotted bluff, elevated thirty or forty feet above -the lake, directly fronting Indian Pond."--Norris. - -_Isa Lake_ (8,250)--L: 6--1893--N. P. R. R.--For Miss Isabel Jelke, of -Cincinnati. - -_Jackson Lake_ (6,000)--U-W: 6--Date unknown.--For David Jackson, a -noted mountaineer and fur trader, and one of the first three partners -of the Rocky Mountain Fur Company. This lake was discovered by John -Colter and was named by Clark _Lake Biddle_, in honor of Nicholas -Biddle, who first gave to the world an authentic edition of the -journal of the celebrated Lewis and Clark Expedition. - -_Jenny Lake_--South of Leigh Lake and off the map.--1872--U. S. G. -S.--For the wife of Richard Leigh. She was a Shoshone Indian. - -_Leigh Lake_--W: 5--1872--U. S. G. S.--For Richard Leigh ("Beaver -Dick"), a noted hunter, trapper, and guide in the country around the -Teton Mountains. The nickname "Beaver Dick" arose, not from the fact -that Leigh was an expert beaver trapper, but on account of the -striking resemblance of two abnormally large front teeth in his upper -jaw to the teeth of a beaver. The Indians called him "The Beaver." - -_Lewis Lake_ (7,720)--O: 7--1872--U. S. G. S.--For Captain Lewis of -"Lewis and Clark" fame. - -"As it had no name, so far as we could ascertain, we decided to call -it Lewis Lake, in memory of that gallant explorer Captain Meriwether -Lewis. The south fork of the Columbia, which was to have perpetuated -his name, has reverted to its Indian title Shoshone, and is commonly -known by that name, or its translation, Snake River. As this lake lies -near the head of one of the principal forks of that stream, it may not -be inappropriately called Lewis Lake."--Bradley.[CN] - -[CN] Page 249, Sixth Annual Report of Dr. Hayden. - -_Loon Lake_ (6,400)--R: 3--1885--U. S. G. S.--Characteristic. - -_Lost Lake_ (8,500)--M: 7--1885--U. S. G. S.--Characteristic.--This is -probably Norris' Two-Ocean-Pond, and is doubtless also the lake -referred to by Hayden in the following paragraph from his report for -1871: - -"We camped at night on the shore of a lake which seemed to have no -outlet. It is simply a depression which receives the drainage of the -surrounding hills. It is marshy around the shores, and the surface is -covered thickly with the leaves and flowers of a large yellow -lily."--Hayden. - -_Madison Lake_ (8,250)--N: 4--1872--U. S. G. S.--Head of the Madison -River. - -"A small lake, covering perhaps sixty acres, occupies the southern end -of the [Firehole] valley, where it bends to the eastward; and as the -ultimate lake source of the Madison River, is the only proper -possessor of the name 'Madison Lake.'"--Bradley.[CO] - -[CO] Page 243, Sixth Annual Report of Dr. Hayden. - -_Mallard Lake_ (8,000)--L: 5--1885--U. S. G. S.--Characteristic. - -_Mary Lake_ (8,100)--J: 7--1873--Tourist Party.--Circumstance recorded -by Rev. E. J. Stanley, one of the party, and author of the book -"Rambles in Wonderland," describing the tour. The following extract is -from his book: - -"We passed along the bank of a lovely little lakelet, sleeping in -seclusion in the shade of towering evergreens, by which it is -sheltered from the roaring tempests. It is near the divide, and on its -pebbly shore some members of our party unfurled the Stars and Stripes, -and christened it Mary's Lake, in honor of Miss Clark, a young lady -belonging to our party." - -This lake appears on Jones' map for the same year as Summit Lake. -Everts is said to have passed it in his wanderings, but there is no -reliable evidence to that effect. - -_Mirror Lake_ (8,700)--G: 12--1885--U. S. G. S.--Characteristic. - -_Obsidian Lake_ (7,650)--E: 6--1885--U. S. G. S.--Characteristic. - -_Riddle Lake_ (7,950)--N: 8--1872--U. S. G. S.-- - -"'Lake Riddle' is a fugitive name, which has been located at several -places, but nowhere permanently. It is supposed to have been used -originally to designate the mythical lake, among the mountains, -whence, according to the hunters, water flowed to both oceans. I have -agreed to Mr. Hering's proposal to attach the name to this lake, which -is directly upon the divide at a point where the waters of the two -oceans start so nearly together, and thus to solve the unsolved -'riddle' of the 'two-ocean-water.'"--Bradley.[CP] This was a year -before Captain Jones verified the existence of Two-Ocean-Pass. - -[CP] Page 250, Sixth Annual Report of Dr. Hayden. - -_Shoshone Lake_ (7,740)--M-N: 5-6--1872--U. S. G. S.--From Shoshone, -or Snake River, which here finds its source. This lake was first named -De Lacy Lake, after its discoverer. The Washburn Party (1870) appear -to have named it after their leader. In 1871, Doctor Hayden, failing -to identify its location, and believing it to be tributary to the -Madison River, renamed it Madison Lake. It is this name which appears -on the first map of the Park and in the Act of Dedication, where the -west boundary of the Park is described as being "fifteen miles west of -the most western point of Madison Lake." In 1872, when the correct -drainage of the lake was discovered, the name "Madison Lake" was -transferred to its present location (See "Madison Lake"), and its -place supplied by "Shoshone Lake." The Act of Dedication is therefore -misleading, and it is necessary to know that "Madison Lake" of the -Act, is "Shoshone Lake" now, in order to understand the true location -of the west boundary of the Park. - -In changing the name from "De Lacy" to "Shoshone," Prof. F. H. -Bradley, of the United States Geological Survey, took occasion to -reflect severely and unjustifiably upon De Lacy's work in mapping the -country.[CQ] - -[CQ] Page 24, Sixth Annual Report of Dr. Hayden. - -De Lacy felt deeply wronged by this action, and Dr. Hayden promised -him that he would set the matter right; but nothing was done. At a -later day, Colonel Norris endeavored to do De Lacy tardy justice by -placing his name on the stream which enters the lake from the north -and drains the beautiful valley now crossed by the tourist route. This -name remained for several year's, when it also was removed by the -United States Geological Survey, and its place filled by "Heron -Creek." During the past year, however, the name "De Lacy Creek" has -been restored. - -_Summit Lake_ (8,450)--M: 3--1885--U. S. G. S.--Near Continental -Divide. - -_Swan Lake_ (7,200)--D: 6--1879--Norris--Characteristic. - -_Sylvan Lake_ (8,300)--L: 13--1878--U. S. G. S.--Characteristic. - -_Tern Lake_ (8,150)--I: 11--1885--U. S. G. S.--Characteristic. - -_Trout Lake_ (6,850)--D: 13--1885--U. S. G. S.--Characteristic. - -_Turbid Lake_ (7,800)--K: 11--1878--U. S. G. S.--Characteristic. - -_Twin Lakes_ (7,450)--G: 6--1885--U. S. G. S.--Characteristic. - -_Wapiti Lake_ (8,500)--H: 11--1885--U. S. G. S.--Characteristic. - -_White Lake_ (8,150)--I: 11--1885--U. S. G. S.--Characteristic. - -_Woods, Lake of the_ (7,550)--F: 6--1885--U. S. G. S.--Characteristic. - -_Yellowstone Lake_ (7,741)--K--0: 8--12--From the river which flows -through it. This lake was named, on the map showing "Colter's Route in -1807," Lake Eustis, in honor of William Eustis, Secretary of War to -President Madison, 1809 to 1812. - -Later it appears as Sublette Lake, in honor of the noted fur trader, -William Sublette. It is even said at one time to have borne the -"fugitive name," Riddle Lake. But it early became known by its present -name. - - * * * * * - -The islands of this lake are seven in number. They seem to have all -been named by the United States Geological Survey largely for the -employes of the survey. They are: - -_Carrington Island._ For Campbell Carrington, zoologist. - -_Dot Island._ A mere dot on the map. - -_Frank Island._ For the brother of Henry W. Elliott, a member of the -Hayden Expedition of 1871. This Island was renamed Belknap Island in -1875 by the members of Secretary Belknap's party, who passed through -the Park in that year. The name, however, never came into use. - -_Molly Island._--For the wife of Mr. Henry Gannett. - -_Peale Island._--For Dr. A. C. Peale, author of the elaborate report -on thermal springs which appears in Hayden's report for 1878. - -_Pelican Roost._--Characteristic. - -_Stevenson Island._--For James Stevenson. See "Mt. Stevenson." - - * * * * * - -The bays are also seven in number, of which only the following merit -notice: - -_Mary Bay._--Named by Henry W. Elliott for Miss Mary Force. - -_Thumb._--From the old fancy that the form of the lake resembled that -of the human hand. - -_Bridge Bay._--From Bridge Creek. See "Bridge Creek." - -The capes are thirteen in number. We need notice only Signal Point, -which was much used in signaling by the early explorers; Steamboat -Point, named from the Steamboat Springs near by; and Storm Point, so -named because it receives the full force of the prevailing south-west -winds from across the lake. - -"_The Annie._"--The first boat on the Yellowstone Lake was a small -canvass craft 12 feet long by 3-1/2 feet wide. Dr. Hayden records -that, it was, christened _The Annie_, "by Mr. Stevenson, in compliment -to Miss Anna L. Dawes, the amiable daughter of Hon. H. L. Dawes." - -[Illustration: "The Annie."] - -The boat was extemporized by Mr. James Stevenson from such materials -as could be picked up. In the classic picture of this historic craft, -the persons in the boat are James Stevenson and Henry W. Elliott. An -original photograph of the boat now adorns the cabin of the _Zillah_, -the small steamboat which conveys tourists about the Lake. - - -APPENDIX A. - -VI. - -MISCELLANEOUS FEATURES. - - [Numbers in parentheses indicate altitudes.] - -_Craig Pass_ (8,300)--L: 6--1891--From the maiden name of Mrs. Ida -Craig Wilcox, the first tourist to cross the pass. - -[Illustration: FERDINAND VANDIVEER HAYDEN] - -_Hayden Valley_ (7,800)--H-J: 8-10-1878--U.S.G.S. For the eminent -American geologist, Ferdinand Vandiveer Hayden, M.D., LL. D., whose -important part in the history of the Yellowstone National Park has -been fully set forth in previous pages. The following condensed sketch -of his life is from the pen of Dr. A. C. Peale:[CR] - -[CR] Bulletin Philosophical Society of Washington, Vol. VI, pp. -476-478. - -... "He was born at Westfield, Mass., September 7, 1829.... His father -died when he was about ten years of age, and about two years later he -went to live with an uncle at Rochester, in Lorain County, Ohio, where -he remained for six years. He taught in the country district schools -of the neighborhood during his sixteenth and seventeenth years, and -at the age of eighteen went to Oberlin College, where he was graduated -in 1850.... - -"He studied medicine with Dr. J. S. Newberry, at Cleveland, and at -Albany was graduated Doctor of Medicine in the early part of 1853. -After his graduation, he was sent by Prof. James Hall, of New York, to -the Bad Lands of White River, in Dakota. The years 1854 and 1855 he -spent exploring and collecting fossils in the Upper Missouri country, -mainly at his own expense. From 1856 until 1859, he was connected as -geologist with the expeditious of Lieutenant Warren, engaged in -explorations in Nebraska and Dakota. From 1859 until 1862, he was -surgeon, naturalist, and geologist with Captain W. F. Raynolds, in the -exploration of the Yellowstone and Missouri Rivers. In October, 1862, -he was appointed acting assistant surgeon and assistant medical -inspector until June, 1865, when he resigned, and was brevetted -lieutenant-colonel for meritorious services during the war. He then -resumed his scientific work, and in 1866 made another trip to the Bad -Lands of Dakota, this time in the interest of the Academy of Natural -Sciences of Philadelphia. In 1865, he was elected professor of -mineralogy and geology in the University of Pennsylvania, which -position he resigned in 1872. From 1867 to 1879, his history is that -of the organization of which he had charge, which began as a -geological survey of Nebraska, and became finally the Geological -Survey of the Territories.... From 1879 until December, 1886, he was -connected with the United States Geological Survey as geologist. His -health began to fail soon after his connection with this organization, -and gradually became worse, and he lived only a year after his -resignation. - -"In 1876, the degree of LL.D. was conferred upon him by the University -of Rochester, and in June, 1886, he received the same degree from the -University of Pennsylvania. He was a member of seventeen scientific -societies in the United States, among them the National Academy of -Sciences, and was honorary and corresponding member of some seventy -foreign societies. A bibliography of his writings includes 158 titles. - -"... The gentleness and diffidence, approaching even timidity, which -impressed his fellow-students at Oberlin, characterized Dr. Hayden -throughout his life, and rendered it somewhat difficult for those who -did not know him intimately to understand the reasons for his success, -which was undoubtedly due to his energy and perseverance, qualities -which were equally characteristic of him as a boy and student and in -later life. His desire to forward the cause of science was sincere and -enthusiastic, and he was always ready to modify his views upon the -presentation of evidence. He was intensely nervous, frequently -impulsive, but ever generous, and his honesty and integrity undoubted. -The greater part of his work for the government and for science was a -labor of love." - -_Jones Pass_ (9,450)--K: 12--1880--Norris--For its discoverer, Captain -W. A. Jones, Corps of Engineers, U. S. A., who passed through it in -1873. - -_Kingman Pass_ (7,230)--D: 6--1883--U. S. G. S.--The pass of which -Golden Gate is the northern entrance. For Lieutenant D. C. Kingman, -Corps of Engineers, U. S. A., who built the road through the pass. - -_Norris Geyser Basin_ (7,527)--G-H: 6--For P. W. Norris, who first -explored and described it, and opened it up to tourists. It was, -however, discovered in 1872 by E. S. Topping and Dwight Woodruff, who -were led in that direction by noticing from the summit of Bunsen Peak -a vast column of steam ascending to the southward. The day after this -discovery, a tourist party, including a Mr. and Mrs. H. H. Stone, of -Bozeman, Montana, visited it from Mammoth Hot Springs, and then -continued their course, by way of the general line of the present -route, to the Firehole Geyser Basin. Mrs. Stone was the first white -woman to visit the Park. - -_Norris Pass_ (8,260)--M : 6--1879--Norris--For its discoverer. - -_Raynolds Pass_ (6,911)--Not on map.--Crosses the Continental Divide -to the northward of Henry Lake, and connects the valley of Henry Fork -with that of the Madison. Named for Captain W. F. Raynolds, who led -his expedition through it in 1860. - -_Sylvan Pass_ (8,650)--L : 13--1895--U. S. G. S.--Characteristic. - -_Targhee Pass_ (7,063)--Not on map.--Crosses the Continental Divide to -the eastward of Henry Lake, and leads from the valley of Henry Fork to -that of the Madison. The origin and orthography of this name are -uncertain. In Hayden's Report for 1872, occur three spellings, -Targhee, Tyghee, and Tahgee. The weight of evidence is in favor of the -form here adopted. There was an impression among the Hayden Survey -people, in 1872, that the name was given in honor of some -distinguished Indian Chief; but that there was no definite information -on the point is evident from the following statements, taken from -Hayden's Report for 1872. On page 56, it is stated that _Tahgee_ Pass -"was named years ago for the head chief of the Bannocks." On page 227, -it is said that _Tyghee_ Pass "was named for an old Shoshone chief who -was wont to use it." The real origin is thus left somewhat obscure, -but it is probable that the notion that the pass was named for an -Indian chief may have some foundation in fact. There was living among -the Bannocks within the present memory of white men a chief whose name -was pronounced _Ti-gee_. - - -APPENDIX A. - -VII. - -LIST OF THE PROMINENT GEYSERS. - -The numbers in the third column are the highest recorded eruptions. -The numbers in the fourth and fifth columns are not to be taken as -indicating the correct duration or periodicity of eruptions. The -prevalent notion that geysers exhibit uniform periodicity of action, -is erroneous. There is only one geyser of importance in the Park that -can be depended on, and that is Old Faithful. The figures for the -other geysers are merely rough averages, true, perhaps, as the mean of -a year's observations, but not at all to be relied upon in predicting -particular eruptions. - - The following abbreviations are used: "M. H. S.," for Mammoth Hot - Springs; "N. G. B.," "L. G. B.," "M. G. B.," "U. G. B.," "S. G. - B.," and "H. G. B.," for the Norris, Lower, Middle, Upper, - Shoshone, and Hart Lake, Geyser Basins respectively; "E. S. Y." and - "W. S. Y." for the East and West Shores respectively of the - Yellowstone Lake; "s." for second; "m." for minute; "h." for hour; - and "d." for day. - - -------------+-----------+---------------------------+----------------- - | | Eruptions. | - Name. | Location. +---------+--------+--------+ Authors of - | | Height. | Dura- | Inter- | Names. - | | | tion. | val. | Remarks. - -------------+-----------+---------+--------+--------+----------------- - | | | | | - Arsenic | N. G. B. | -- | -- | -- | U. S. G. S. - Artemesia | U. G. B. | 150 ft. | 10 m. | 2 d. | U. S. G. S. - Atomizer | U. G. B. | 20 ft. | 10 m. | -- | Unknown. - Bead | L. G. B. | -- | -- | -- | Has a - | | | | | "beautifully - | | | | | beaded tube." - | | | | | --Comstock. - Bee Hive | U. G. B. | 220 ft. | 8 m. | 20 h. | Washburn Party. - Bijou | U. G. B. | -- | -- | -- | U. S. G. S. - Bulger | U. G. B. | 5 ft. | -- | -- | U. S. G. S. - Castle | U. G. B. | 100 ft. | 25 m. | 24 h. | Washburn Party. - | | | | | "From a - | | | | | distance it - | | | | | strongly - | | | | | resembles an - | | | | | old feudal - | | | | | castle partially - | | | | | in ruins." - | | | | | --Doane. - Catfish | L. G. B. | -- | -- | -- | U. S. G. S. - Chinaman | U. G. B. | -- | -- | -- | U. S. G. S. Really - | | | | | a quiescent - | | | | | spring. Sometimes - | | | | | called a geyser - | | | | | from the - | | | | | circumstance - | | | | | that a Chinaman - | | | | | who had used it - | | | | | for a wash-tub - | | | | | caused an - | | | | | eruption by the - | | | | | soap put in the - | | | | | spring, thus - | | | | | initiating the - | | | | | practice of - | | | | | "soaping - | | | | | geysers." - Clepsydra | L. G. B. | 50 ft. | 10 s. | 3 m. | "Like the ancient - | | | | | water-clock of - | | | | | that name, it - | | | | | marks the passage - | | | | | of time by the - | | | | | discharge of - | | | | | water."--Comstock - | | | | | (1873). - Comet | U. G. B. | 60 ft. | 1 m. | -- | U. S. G. S. - Congress | N. G. B. | -- | -- | -- | Came into - | | | | | existence in the - | | | | | winter of 1893. - | | | | | Like the - | | | | | memorable 53d - | | | | | Congress, for - | | | | | which it is - | | | | | named, its - | | | | | performance - | | | | | is sadly - | | | | | incommensurate - | | | | | with its - | | | | | promises. - Constant | N. G. B. | 40 ft. | 10 s. | 1 m. | Norris. - Cubs | U. G. B. | -- | -- | -- | See "Lion." - Deluge | H. G. B. | 15 ft. | -- | -- | U. S. G. S. - Echinus | N. G. B. | 20 ft. | -- | -- | U. S. G. S. - Economic | U. G. B. | -- | -- | -- | No water lost in - | | | | | eruption; all - | | | | | falls back into - | | | | | crater. - Excelsior | M. G. B. | 300 ft. | -- | 1 to 4 | "A geyser so - | | | | h. | immeasurably - | | | | | excelling any - | | | | | other ancient or - | | | | | modern known - | | | | | to history - | | | | | that I find but - | | | | | one name fitting, - | | | | | and herein - | | | | | christen it the - | | | | | Excelsior." - | | | | | --Norris. The - | | | | | Sheridan parties - | | | | | in 1881 and 1882 - | | | | | called it the - | | | | | Sheridan Geyser. - Fan | U. G. B. | 60 ft. | 10 m. | 8 h. | Washburn Party. - Fearless | N. G. B. | -- | -- | -- | Norris. - Fissure | N. G. B. | 100 ft. | 20 m. | 2 h. | U. S. G. S. - Fitful | L. G. B. | 3 ft. | -- | -- | Comstock. - Fountain | L. G. B. | 60 ft. | 15 m. | 4 h. | U. S. G. S. - Giant | U. G. B. | 200 ft. | 90 m. | 6 d. | Washburn Party. - Giantess | U. G. B. | 250 ft. | 12 h. | 14 d. | Washburn Party. - Grand | U. G. B. | 200 ft. | 20 m. | 20 h. | U. S. G. S. - Gray Bulger | L. G. B. | 1 ft. | 30 s. | 1 m. | U. S. G. S. - Great | L. G. B. | 100 ft. | -- | -- | U. S. G. S. - Fountain | | | | | --Called - | | | | | Architectural - | | | | | Fountain in - | | | | | 1871. - Grotto | U. G. B. | 40 ft. | 30 m. | 4 h. | Washburn Party. - Jet | L. G. B. | 15 ft. | -- | -- | U. S. G. S. - Jewell | U. G. B. | 50 ft. | 1 m. | 50 m. | U. S. G. S. - Lion | U. G. B. | 60 ft. | 8 m. | 24 h. | With Lioness and - | | | | | Cubs, called - | | | | | "The Chimneys" - | | | | | by Barlow in - | | | | | 1871; renamed - | | | | | "Trinity" - | | | | | Geysers by - | | | | | Comstock - | | | | | in 1873; most - | | | | | isolated cone - | | | | | called "Niobe" by - | | | | | U. S. G. S. in - | | | | | 1878; present - | | | | | name given by - | | | | | Norris in 1881. - Lioness | U. G. B. | 80 ft. | 10 m. | 24 h. | See "Lion." - Lone Star | M : 5. | 60 ft. | 10 m. | 40 m. | Unknown. First - | | | | | called "The - | | | | | Solitary" by the - | | | | | U. S. G. S. in - | | | | | 1872. - Minute | N. G. B. | 40 ft. | 20 s. | 90 s. | Norris. - Model | U. G. B. | -- | -- | -- | Geyser on a small - | | | | | scale. - Monarch | N. G. B. | 125 ft. | 20 m. | 12 h. | Norris. - Mortar | N. G. B. | 60 ft. | 6 m. | 8 h. | "Resembles in its - | | | | | eruption the - | | | | | particular piece - | | | | | of ordnance from - | | | | | which it derives - | | | | | its name." Haynes - | | | | | Guide Book. - Mud Geyser | N. G. B. | 10 ft. | 5 m. | 20 m. | Norris. - Mud Geyser | I : 9 | 30 ft. | 20 m. | 3 h. | Washburn Party. - Oblong | U. G. B. | 40 ft. | 4 m. | 8 h. | U. S. G. S. - Old Faithful | U. G. B. | 150 ft. |4-1/2 m.| 65 m. | Washburn Party. - Pearl | N. G. B. | -- | -- | -- | U. S. G. S. - Pebble | N. G. B. | 50 ft. | -- | 75 m. | U. S. G. S. - Pink Cone | L. G. B. | -- | -- | -- | U. S. G. S. - Restless | U. G. B. | -- | -- | -- | U. S. G. S. - Riverside | U. G. B. | 80 ft. | 15 m. | 8 h. | U. S. G. S. - Rosette | L. G. B. | 30 ft. | -- | -- | U. S. G. S. - Rustic | H. G. B. | 47 ft. | 4 m. | 15 m. | U. S. G. S. - Sawmill | U. G. B. | 35 ft. | -- | -- | U. S. G. S. - Sentinel | U. G. B. | 20 ft. | -- | -- | Barlow. - Shield | S. G. B. | -- | -- | -- | U. S. G. S. - Spasmodic | U. G. B. | 5 ft. | -- | -- | U. S. G. S. - Spike | H. G. B. | -- | -- | -- | U. S. G. S. - Splendid | U. G. B. | 200 ft. | 10 m. | 3 h. | Norris. - Sponge | U. G. B. | -- | -- | -- | From appearance of - | | | | | its crater. - Steady | L. G. B. | 30 ft. | -- | -- | U. S. G. S. - Surprise | U. G. B. | 100 ft. | 2 m. | -- | - Turban | U. G. B. | 20 ft. | 25 m. | -- | U. S. G. S. "From - | | | | | the fancied - | | | | | appearance of - | | | | | some of the large - | | | | | globular masses - | | | | | in its basin to - | | | | | a Turkish - | | | | | head-dress." - | | | | | --Peale. - Union (1) | S. G. B. | 114 ft. | 60 m. | 5 h. | U. S. G. S. in - (2) | -- | 66 ft | -- | -- | 1872. - (3) | -- | 3 ft. | -- | -- | So named "because - | | | | | of its - | | | | | combination - | | | | | of the various - | | | | | forms of geyseric - | | | | | action."--Peale. - | | | | | No. 1 is North - | | | | | Cone; No. 2 - | | | | | Middle Cone; - | | | | | and No. 3 South - | | | | | Cone. - Vixen | N. G. B. | -- | -- | -- | Norris. - White Dome | L. G. B. | 12 ft. | -- | -- | U. S. G. S. - Young | U. G. B. | 20 ft. | -- | -- | Earl of Dunraven. - Faithful | | | | | - Young | L. G. B. | 20 ft. | -- | -- | U. S. G. S. - Hopeful | | | | | - - - -APPENDIX B. - -LEGISLATION AND REGULATIONS NOW IN FORCE AFFECTING THE YELLOWSTONE -NATIONAL PARK. - - -THE ACT OF DEDICATION. - - An Act to set apart a certain tract of land lying near the - headwaters of the Yellowstone River as a public park. - -_Be it enacted by the Senate and House of Representatives of the -United States of America in Congress assembled_, That the tract of -land in the Territories of Montana and Wyoming lying near the -headwaters of the Yellowstone River, and described as follows, to wit: -commencing at the junction of Gardiner's River with the Yellowstone -River and running east of the meridian, passing ten miles to the -eastward of the most eastern point of Yellowstone Lake; thence south -along the said meridian to the parallel of latitude, passing ten miles -south of the most southern point of Yellowstone Lake; thence west -along said parallel to the meridian, passing fifteen miles west of the -most western point of Madison Lake; thence north along said meridian -to the latitude of the junction of the Yellowstone and Gardiner's -Rivers; thence east to the place of beginning, is hereby reserved and -withdrawn from settlement, occupancy, or sale under the laws of the -United States, and dedicated and set apart as a public park or -pleasuring ground for the benefit and enjoyment of the people; and all -persons who shall locate, or settle upon, or occupy the same or any -part thereof, except as hereinafter provided, shall be considered -trespassers and removed therefrom. - -Sec. 2. That said public park shall be under the exclusive control of -the Secretary of the Interior, whose duty it shall be as soon as -practicable, to make and publish such rules and regulations as he may -deem necessary or proper for the care and management of the same. Such -regulations shall provide for the preservation from injury or -spoliation of all timber, mineral deposits, natural curiosities, or -wonders within said park, and their retention in their natural -condition. - -The Secretary may, in his discretion, grant leases for building -purposes, for terms not exceeding ten years, of small parcels of -ground, at such places in said park as shall require the erection of -buildings for the accommodation of visitors; all of the proceeds of -said leases, and all other revenues that may be derived from any -source connected with said park, to be expended under his direction in -the management of the same and the construction of roads and -bridle-paths therein. He shall provide against the wanton destruction -of the fish and game found within said park and against their capture -or destruction for the purposes of merchandise or profit. He shall -also cause all persons trespassing upon the same after the passage of -this act to be removed therefrom, and generally shall be authorized to -take all such measures as shall be necessary or proper to fully carry -out the objects and purposes of this act. - - _Approved March 1, 1872._ - -Signed by: - -James G. Blaine, Speaker of the House. - -Schuyler Colfax, Vice-President of the United States and President of -the Senate. - -Ulysses S. Grant, President of the United States. - - -MILITARY ASSISTANCE AUTHORIZED FOR PROTECTING THE PARK - -SUNDRY CIVIL BILL FOR 1883. - -... The Secretary of War, upon the request of the Secretary of the -Interior, is hereby authorized and directed to make the necessary -details of troops to prevent trespassers or intruders from entering -the park for the purpose of destroying the game or objects of -curiosity therein, or for any other purpose prohibited by law, and to -remove such persons from the park if found therein.... - - _Approved, March 3, 1883._ - - * * * * * - -ADMISSION OF THE STATE OF WYOMING. - -Sec. 2. ... _Provided_, That nothing in this act contained shall -repeal or affect any act of Congress relating to the Yellowstone -National Park, or the reservation of the park as now defined, or as -may be hereafter defined or extended, or the power of the United -States over it; and nothing contained in this act shall interfere with -the right and ownership of the United States in said park and -reservation as it now is or may hereafter be defined or extended by -law: but exclusive legislation, in all cases whatsoever, shall be -exercised by the United States, which shall have exclusive control and -jurisdiction over the same; but nothing in this proviso contained -shall be construed to prevent the service within said park of civil -and criminal process lawfully issued by the authority of said state; -and the said state shall not be entitled to select indemnity school -lands for the sixteenth and thirty-sixth sections that may be in said -park reservation, as the same is now defined or may be hereafter -defined.... - - _Approved, July 10, 1890._ - -THE NATIONAL PARK PROTECTIVE ACT. - - An Act to protect the birds and animals in Yellowstone National - Park, and to punish crimes in said park, and for other purposes. - -_Be it enacted by the Senate and House of Representatives of the -United States of America in Congress assembled_, That the Yellowstone -National Park, as its boundaries now are defined, or as they may be -hereafter defined or extended, shall be under the sole and exclusive -jurisdiction of the United States; and that all the laws applicable to -places under the sole and exclusive jurisdiction of the United States -shall have force and effect in said park; provided, however, that -nothing in this Act shall be construed to forbid the service in the -park of any civil or criminal process of any court having jurisdiction -in the States of Idaho, Montana and Wyoming. All fugitives from -justice taking refuge in said park shall be subject to the same laws -as refugees from justice found in the State of Wyoming. - -Sec. 2. That said park, for all the purposes of this Act, shall -constitute a part of the United States judicial district of Wyoming -and the District and Circuit Courts of the United States in and for -said district shall have jurisdiction of all offenses committed within -said park. - -Sec. 3. That if any offense shall be committed in said Yellowstone -National Park, which offense is not prohibited or the punishment is -not specially provided for by any law of the United States or by any -regulation of the Secretary of the Interior, the offender shall be -subject to the same punishment as the laws of the State of Wyoming in -force at the time of the commission of the offense may provide for a -like offense in the said State; and no subsequent repeal of any such -law of the State of Wyoming shall affect any prosecution for said -offense committed within said park. - -Sec. 4. That all hunting, or the killing, wounding, or capturing at -any time of any bird or wild animal, except dangerous animals, when it -is necessary to prevent them from destroying human life or inflicting -an injury, is prohibited within the limits of said park; nor shall any -fish be taken out of the waters of the park by means of seines, nets, -traps, or by the use of drugs or any explosive substances or -compounds, or in any other way than by hook and line, and then only at -such seasons and in such times and manner as may be directed by the -Secretary of the Interior. That the Secretary of the Interior shall -make and publish such rules and regulations as he may deem necessary -and proper for the management and care of the park and for the -protection of the property therein, especially for the preservation -from injury or spoliation of all timber, mineral deposits, natural -curiosities, or wonderful objects within said park; and for the -protection of the animals and birds in the park, from capture or -destruction, or to prevent their being frightened or driven from the -park; and he shall make rules and regulations governing the taking of -fish from the streams or lakes in the park. Possession within the said -park of the dead bodies, or any part thereof, of any wild bird or -animal shall be _prima facie_ evidence that the person or persons -having the same are guilty of violating this Act. Any person or -persons, or stage or express company or railway company, receiving for -transportation any of the said animals, birds or fish so killed, taken -or caught, shall be deemed guilty of a misdemeanor, and shall be fined -for every such offense, not exceeding three hundred dollars. Any -person found guilty of violating any of the provisions of this Act or -any rule or regulation that may be promulgated by the Secretary of the -Interior with reference to the management and care of the park, or for -the protection of the property therein, for the preservation from -injury or spoliation of timber, mineral deposits, natural curiosities -or wonderful objects within said park, or for the protection of the -animals, birds and fish in the said park, shall be deemed guilty of a -misdemeanor, and shall be subjected to a fine of not more than one -thousand dollars or imprisonment not exceeding two years, or both, and -be adjudged to pay all costs of the proceedings. - -That all guns, traps, teams, horses, or means of transportation of -every nature or description used by any person or persons within said -park limits when engaged in killing, trapping, ensnaring, or capturing -such wild beasts, birds, or wild animals shall be forfeited to the -United States, and may be seized by the officers in said park and held -pending the prosecution of any person or persons arrested under charge -of violating the provisions of this Act, and upon conviction under -this Act of such person or persons using said guns, traps, teams, -horses, or other means of transportation, such forfeiture shall be -adjudicated as a penalty in addition to the other punishment provided -in this Act. Such forfeited property shall be disposed and accounted -for by and under the authority of the Secretary of the Interior. - -Sec. 5. That the United States Circuit Court in said district shall -appoint a commissioner, who shall reside in the park, who shall have -jurisdiction to hear and act upon all complaints made, of any and all -violations of the law, or of the rules and regulations made by the -Secretary of the Interior for the government of the park, and for the -protection of the animals, birds, and fish and objects of interest -therein, and for other purposes authorized by this Act. Such -commissioner shall have power, upon sworn information, to issue -process in the name of the United States for the arrest of any person -charged with the commission of any misdemeanor, or charged with the -violation of the rules and regulations, or with the violation of any -provision of this Act prescribed for the government of said park, and -for the protection of the animals, birds, and fish in the said park, -and to try the person so charged, and, if found guilty, to impose the -punishment and adjudge the forfeiture prescribed. In all cases of -conviction, an appeal shall lie from the judgment of said commissioner -to the United States District Court for the district of Wyoming, said -appeal to be governed by the laws of the State of Wyoming providing -for appeals in cases of misdemeanor from justices of the peace to the -District Court of said State; but the United States Circuit Court in -said district may prescribe rules of procedure and practice for said -commissioner in the trial of cases, and for appeal to said United -States District Court. Said commissioner shall also have power to -issue process as hereinbefore provided for the arrest of any person -charged with the commission of any felony within the park, and to -summarily hear the evidence introduced, and, if he shall determine -that probable cause is shown for holding the person so charged for -trial, shall cause such person to be safely conveyed to a secure place -for confinement, within the jurisdiction of the United States District -Court in said State of Wyoming, and shall certify a transcript of the -record of his proceedings and the testimony in the case to the said -court, which court shall have jurisdiction of the case; provided, that -the said commissioner shall grant bail in all cases bailable under the -laws of the United States or of said State. All process issued by the -commissioner shall be directed to the marshal of the United States for -the district of Wyoming; but nothing herein contained shall be -construed as preventing the arrest by any officer of the government or -employe of the United States in the park, without process, of any -person taken in the act of violating the law or any regulation of the -Secretary of the Interior; provided, that the said commissioner shall -only exercise such authority and powers as are conferred by this Act. - -Sec. 6. That the marshal of the United States for the district of -Wyoming may appoint one or more deputy marshals for said park, who -shall reside in said park, and the said United States District and -Circuit Courts shall hold one session of said courts annually at the -town of Sheridan, in the State of Wyoming, and may also hold other -sessions at any other place in said State of Wyoming, or in said -National Park, at such dates as the said courts may order. - -Sec. 7. That the commissioner provided for in this Act shall, in -addition to the fees allowed by law to commissioners of the Circuit -Courts of the United States, be paid an annual salary of one thousand -dollars, payable quarterly, and the marshal of the United States, and -his deputies, and the attorney of the United States and his assistants -in said district, shall be paid the same compensation and fees as are -now provided by law for like services in said district. - -Sec. 8. That all costs and expenses arising in cases under this Act, -and properly chargeable to the United States, shall be certified, -approved, and paid as like costs and expenses in the courts of the -United States are certified, approved, and paid under the laws of the -United States. - -Sec. 9. That the Secretary of the Interior shall cause to be erected -in the park a suitable building to be used as a jail, and also having -in said building an office for the use of the commissioner, the cost -of such building not to exceed five thousand dollars, to be paid out -of any moneys in the Treasury not otherwise appropriated, upon the -certificate of the Secretary as a voucher therefor. - -Sec. 10. That this act shall not be construed to repeal existing laws -conferring upon the Secretary of the Interior and the Secretary of War -certain powers with reference to the protection, improvement, and -control of the said Yellowstone National Park. - - _Approved, May 7, 1894._ - - -LEASES IN THE YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. - - An act concerning leases in the Yellowstone National Park. - -_Be it enacted by the Senate and House of Representatives of the -United States of America in Congress assembled_, That the Secretary -of the Interior is hereby authorized and empowered to lease to any -person, corporation, or company, for a period not exceeding ten years, -at such annual rental as the Secretary of the Interior may determine, -parcels of land in the Yellowstone National Park, of not more than ten -acres in extent for each tract, and not in excess of twenty acres in -all to any one person, corporation, or company, on which maybe erected -hotels and necessary out-buildings; provided, that such lease or -leases shall not include any of the geysers or other objects of -curiosity or interest in said park, or exclude the public from free -and convenient approach thereto, or include any ground within -one-eighth of a mile of any of the geysers or the Yellowstone Falls, -the Grand Cañon, or the Yellowstone River, Mammoth Hot Springs, or any -object of curiosity in the park; and provided, further, that such -leases shall not convey, either expressly or by implication, any -exclusive privilege within the park except upon the premises held -thereunder and for the time therein granted. Every lease hereafter -made for any property in said park shall require the lessee to observe -and obey each and every provision in any Act of Congress, and every -rule, order, or regulation made, or which may hereafter be made and -published by the Secretary of the Interior concerning the use, care, -management, or government of the park, or any object or property -therein, under penalty of forfeiture of such lease, and every such -lease shall be subject to the right of revocation and forfeiture, -which shall therein be reserved by the Secretary of the Interior; and -provided, further, that persons or corporations now holding leases of -ground in the park may, upon the surrender thereof, be granted new -leases hereunder, and upon the terms and stipulations contained in -their present leases, with such modifications, restrictions, and -reservations as the Secretary of the Interior may prescribe. - -This Act, however, is not to be construed as mandatory upon the -Secretary of the Interior, but the authority herein given is to be -exercised in his sound discretion. - -That so much of that portion of the Act of March third, eighteen -hundred and eighty-three, relating to the Yellowstone Park, as -conflicts with this Act, be, and the same is hereby, repealed. - - _Approved, August 3, 1894._ - - -RULES AND REGULATIONS FOR THE GOVERNMENT OF THE YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL -PARK. - -1895. - -[Promulgated by the Secretary of the Interior.] - -RULES AND REGULATIONS OF THE YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. - -1. It is forbidden to remove or injure the sediments or incrustations -around the geysers, hot springs, or steam vents; or to deface the same -by written inscription or otherwise; or to throw any substance into -the springs or geyser vents; or to injure or disturb, in any manner, -or to carry off any of the mineral deposits, specimens, natural -curiosities, or wonders within the park. - -2. It is forbidden to ride or drive upon any of the geyser or hot -spring formations, or to turn loose stock to graze in their vicinity. - -3. It is forbidden to cut or injure any growing timber. Camping -parties will be allowed to use dead or fallen timber for fuel. - -4. Fires shall be lighted only when necessary, and completely -extinguished when not longer required. The utmost care should be -exercised at all times to avoid setting fire to the timber and grass, -and any one failing to comply therewith shall be peremptorily removed -from the park. - -5. Hunting or killing, wounding, or capturing of any bird or wild -animal, except dangerous animals, when necessary to prevent them from -destroying life or inflicting an injury, is prohibited. The outfits, -including guns, traps, teams, horses, or means of transportation used -by persons engaged in hunting, killing, trapping, ensnaring, or -capturing such birds or wild animals, or in possession of game killed -in the park under other circumstances than prescribed above, will be -forfeited to the United States, except in cases where it is shown by -satisfactory evidence that the outfit is not the property of the -person or persons violating this regulation, and the actual owner -thereof was not a party to such violation. Firearms will only be -permitted in the park on the written permission of the Superintendent -thereof. On arrival at the first station of the park guard, parties -having firearms will turn them over to the sergeant in charge of the -station, taking his receipt for them. They will be returned to the -owners on leaving the park. - -6. Fishing with nets, seines, traps, or by use of drugs or explosives, -or in any other way than with hook and line, is prohibited. Fishing -for purposes of merchandise or profit is forbidden by law. Fishing may -be prohibited by order of the Superintendent of the park in any of the -waters of the park, or limited therein to any specified season of the -year, until otherwise ordered by the Secretary of the Interior. - -7. No person will be permitted to reside permanently or to engage in -any business in the park without permission, in writing, from the -Department of the Interior. The Superintendent may grant authority to -competent persons to act as guides, and revoke the same in his -discretion, and no pack trains shall be allowed in the park unless in -charge of a duly registered guide. - -8. The herding or grazing of loose stock or cattle of any kind within -the park, as well as the driving of such stock or cattle over the -roads of the park, is strictly forbidden, except in such cases where -authority therefor is granted by the Secretary of the Interior. - -9. No drinking saloon or bar-room will be permitted within the limits -of the park. - -10. Private notices or advertisements shall not be posted or displayed -within the park, except such as may be necessary for the convenience -and guidance of the public, upon buildings on leased ground. - -11. Persons who render themselves obnoxious by disorderly conduct or -bad behavior, or who violate any of the foregoing rules, will be -summarily removed from the park, and will not be allowed to return -without permission in writing from the Secretary of the Interior or -the Superintendent of the Park. - -Any person who violates any of the foregoing regulations will be -deemed guilty of a misdemeanor, and be subjected to a fine, as -provided by the Act of Congress, approved May 7, 1894, "to protect the -birds and animals in Yellowstone National Park, and to punish crimes -in said park, and for other purposes," of not more than one thousand -dollars or imprisonment not exceeding two years, or both, and be -adjudged to pay all costs of the proceedings. - - Hoke Smith, - _Secretary of the Interior_. - - - - -APPENDIX C. - -APPROPRIATIONS FOR THE YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. - - - Act June 20, 1878. To protect, preserve, and improve - the Park $10,000 00 - - " Mar. 3, 1879. To protect, preserve, and improve - the Park 10,000 00 - - " June 16, 1880. To protect, preserve, and improve - the Park 15,000 00 - - " Mar. 3, 1881. To protect, preserve, and improve - the Park 15,000 00 - - " Mar. 3, 1881. Deficiency for 1880 89 76 - - " Aug. 5, 1882. " " 1881 155 00 - - " Aug. 7, 1882. For protection and improvement - of Park 15,000 00 - - " Aug. 7, 1882. To reimburse P. W. Norris for - salary and expenses, April 18, - 1877, to June 30, 1878 3,180 41 - - " Mar. 3, 1883. For protection and improvement - of Park 40,000 00 - - " July 7, 1884. For protection and improvement - of Park 40,000 00 - - " Mar. 3, 1885. For protection and improvement - of Park 40,000 00 - - Joint Resolution of - July 1 and July - 15, 1886 Compensation of Superintendent - and employes for month of - July, 1886 934 25 - - Act Aug. 4, 1886. For construction of roads and - bridges 20,000 00 - - " Mar. 3, 1887. For construction of roads and - bridges 20,000 00 - - Act Oct. 2, 1888. For construction of roads and - bridges 25,000 00 - - " Mar. 2, 1889. For construction of roads and - bridges 50,000 00 - - " Aug. 30, 1890. For construction of roads and - bridges 75,000 00 - - " Sept. 30, 1890. Reimbursement of Superintendent - Conger 169 37 - - " Mar. 3, 1891. For construction of roads and - bridges 75,000 00 - - " Aug. 5, 1892. For construction of roads and - bridges 45,000 00 - - " Mar. 3, 1893. For construction of roads and - bridges 30,000 00 - - " May 4, 1894. For erection of court-house and - jail 5,000 00 - - " Aug. 18, 1894. For construction of roads and - bridges 30,000 00 - - " Aug. 18, 1894. For salary of Commissioner - provided by Act of May 4, 1894 1,000 00 - - " Mar. 2, 1895. For construction of roads and - bridges 30,000 00 - - " Mar. 2, 1895. For salary of Commissioner 1,000 00 - - " Mar. 2, 1895. For reimbursement of John W. - Meldrum 385 75 - ----------- - Total $596,914 54 - - Receipts from leases $8,358 94 - - Expenditures from same 4,053 45 - - Balance 4,305 49 - ----------- - Outlay for 23 years $592,609 05 - - Average annual outlay less than 25,000 00 - - - - -APPENDIX D. - -LIST OF SUPERINTENDENTS OF THE YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. - - - _Name._ _Length of Service._ _Compensation._ - - Nathaniel P. Langford Appointed May 10, - 1872; removed April - 18, 1877 No compensation. - - Philetus W. Norris Appointed April 18, - 1877 Do. - Commissioned July 5, - 1878; removed - February 2, 1882 $1,500 per annum. - - Patrick H. Conger Commissioned February - 2, 1882; resigned - July 28, 1884 $2,000 per annum. - - Robert E. Carpenter Commissioned August - 4, 1884; removed May - 29, 1885 Do. - - David W. Wear Commissioned May 29, - 1885. Congress failed - to appropriate for - office from August 1, - 1886 Do. - - Capt. Moses Harris Acting Superintendent - of Park. August 10, - 1886, detailed by - Secretary of War, in - pursuance of Act March - 3, 1883 (22 Statutes, - 627). Relieved from - duty June 1, 1889 No compensation - other than army - pay. - - Capt. F. A. Boutelle Acting Superintendent - of Park; assigned - June 1, 1889, relieving - Capt. Moses Harris No compensation - other than army - pay. - - Capt. Geo. S. Anderson. Acting Superintendent - of Park; assigned - January 21, 1891, - relieving Capt. F. A. - Boutelle Do. - - - - -APPENDIX E. - -BIBLIOGRAPHY OF THE LITERATURE OF THE YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. - - -The following bibliography is intended to contain the names of such -books and magazine articles in the English language as treat in whole -or in part of the Yellowstone National Park. It does not include -references in encyclopedias or school textbooks, nor, with few -exceptions, articles from the daily or weekly journals. Those who -desire to consult the more general literature relating to the geysers -and hot springs of the world are referred to the excellent work of Dr. -A. C. Peale, published in 1883, in the Twelfth Annual Report of Dr. -Hayden, pp. 427-449. - -The present list is carefully indexed under the more prominent words -of the titles and under the names of the authors; but the full title -of each work is given only once. To pass from any other reference to -the corresponding full title, note the number following the reference -and look for the title which is preceded by the same number. The -abbreviation "Y. N. P." is for "Yellowstone National Park." - - -1. Action of Geysers. _Westminster Review_, vol. lxvii, p. 207. - -Allen, C. J., 6. - -2. American Big Game Hunting. The Book of the Boone and Crockett Club, -vol. i. Editors, Theodore Roosevelt and George Bird Grinnell. New -York. Forest and Stream Publishing Company. 1893. Contains numerous -references to the Y. N. P. and an article entitled "The Yellowstone -Park as a Game Preserve," by Arnold Hague. - -3. Among the Geysers of the Yellowstone. E. Roberts. In his -_Shoshone_. New York. Harper Brothers. 1888. pp. 202-245. - -4. Analyses of some Geyser Deposits. By Henry Leffmann. _Chemical -News._ London, vol. xliii, p. 124. - -5. Analyses of the Waters of the Y. N. P. By Frank A. Gooch and James -E. Whitfield, Bulletin No. 47, U. S. Geological Survey, Washington: -Government Printing Office. 1888. - -Anderson, G. S., 8, 24, 61. - -6. Annual Reports of Officers of the Corps of Engineers in charge of -the Construction of Roads and Bridges. Including, to the present time, -reports by Lieutenant (now Captain) D. C. Kingman, Captain (now Major) -C. B. Sears, Major Charles J. Allen, Lieutenant W. E. Craighill, Major -(now Lieutenant-Colonel) W. A. Jones, and Lieutenant (now Captain) H. -M. Chittenden. Washington: Government Printing Office. - -7. Annual Reports of Secretaries of the Interior, from 1871 to the -present time. Washington: Government Printing Office. - -8. Annual Reports of Superintendents of the Park. Including, to the -present time, reports by N. P. Langford, P. W. Norris, P. H. Conger, -D. W. Wear, Captain (now Major, retired) Moses Harris, Captain F. A. -Boutelle, and Captain George S. Anderson. Washington: Government -Printing Office. - -9. Annual Report (Fifth: 1871) of the U. S. Geological Survey of the -Territories. By Dr. F. V. Hayden, with sub-reports by A. C. Peale, -Joseph Leidy and T. C. Porter, Washington: Government Printing Office. -1872. - -10. Annual Report (Sixth: 1872) of the U. S. Geological Survey of the -Territories. By Dr. F. V. Hayden, with sub-reports by Dr. A. C. Peale, -F. H. Bradley, C. H. Merriam, Henry Gannett, J. M. Coulter and N. P. -Langford. Washington: Government Printing Office. 1873. - -11. Annual Report (Twelfth: 1878) of the U. S. Geological and -Geographical Survey of the Territories. By Dr. F. V. Hayden, with -sub-reports by W. H. Holmes, Dr. A. C. Peale and Henry Gannett. -Washington: Government Printing Office. 1883. This report contains Dr. -Peale's exhaustive treatise upon the thermal phenomena of the park; -his general treatise on the hot springs and geysers of the world, and -his elaborate bibliography pertaining to these subjects. - -12. Annual Reports of the United States Geological Survey. The serial -numbers of these reports begin with June 30, 1880, the first report -being for the year ending at that time. Nearly all these reports -contain valuable references to the Park, most of them being from the -pen of Prof. Arnold Hague. One article of great importance, by Walter -Harvey Weed (Ninth Annual Report, 1888, pp. 613-676), on the formation -of hot springs deposits through the agency of vegetable growth, -deserves particular notice. Washington: Government Printing Office. - -13. Aquatic Invertebrate Fauna of the Y. N. P., Preliminary Report -upon. S. A. Forbes. Bulletin United States Fish Commission for 1891, -p. 215. Washington: Government Printing Office. 1893. - -Arthur, Chester A., 66. - -14. Ascent of Mt. Hayden. N. P. Langford. _Scribner's_ (Old) -_Monthly_, vol. vi, p. 129. - -15. Astoria.--Washington Irving.--Chapter xv contains a reference to -John Colter. - -Attractions of the Y. N. P., 96. - -16. Attractions of the Y. N. P. _Kansas City Review._ April 1880, p. -743. - -17. Autumn in the Yellowstone Park. L. Rutgers. In his _On and off -the Saddle_. New York: Putnam, 1894, pp. 1-19. - -Barlow, Captain J. W., 94. - -18. Battle of the Big Hole. G. O. Shields. Chicago and New York: Rand, -McNally & Company. 1889. Contains an account of the Nez Percé -Campaign. - -Beam, Wm., 21. - -19. Bicycle Tour of the Y. N. P. First. W. O. Owen. _Outing_, vol. -xviii p. 191. - -20. Black Hills, The, and American Wonderland. H. N. Maguire. _The -Lakeside Library_, vol. iv, p. 298. - -21. Bonneville, Captain, The Adventures of. Washington Irving. Chapter -xxiii contains a reference to John Colter, the Stinkingwater River, -and to "Colter's Hell." - -22. Botanical Observations in Western Wyoming. C. C. Parry. _American -Naturalist_, vol. viii, pp. 9, 102, 175, 211. - -Boutelle, Capt. F. A., 8. - -Brackett, W. S., 63. - -Bradbury, J., 115. - -Bradley, F. H., 10. - -Brockett, G. P., 152 - -Brown, R., 125. - -Bunce, O. B., 83. - -Butler, J. D., 65. - -23. Calumet of the Coteau. P. W. Norris. Philadelphia: J. B. -Lippincott & Co., 1883. - -24. Camping in the Y. N. P. Captain Geo. S. Anderson. _Youth's -Companion_, October 17, 1895, p. 488. Gives exhaustive directions for -those desiring to camp through the Park. - -Catlin, George, 62. - -Chittenden, H. M., 6, 98. - -25. Chronicles of the Yellowstone. E. S. Topping. St. Paul: Pioneer -Press Company. 1883. - -Commissioner of Fish and Fisheries, Report of, 91. - -Comstock, T. B., 45, 90, 118, 141. - -Conger, P. H., 8. - -26. Congressional Reports (only the more important): - - To accompany House Bill 764 (Act of Dedication), 42d Cong., 2d - Session. - - Report of a Special Committee of the House of Representatives - appointed by the Speaker on the 4th day of March, 1885, to - investigate, among other things, the Y. N. P. House Report No. - 1,076, 49th Cong., 1st Sess., pp. 245-270. - - Report of the Committee on Public Lands on the administration of - the Y. N. P. in compliance with House resolution of April 8, 1892. - House Report No. 1,956, 52d Cong., 1st Sess., pp. 295. - - Adverse Report on the admission of steam railways within the Park. - House Report No. 1,386, 53d Cong., 2d Sess. - - Adverse Report on the admission of electric railways within the - Park. House Report No. 1,387, 53d Cong., 2d Sess. - - Adverse Report on Segregation project and change of boundaries. - House Report No. 1,763, 53d Cong., 3d Sess. - -27. Contributions to the Geological Chemistry of the Y. N. P. Henry -Leffmann and Wm. Beam. _American Journal of Science._ 3d series, vol. -xxv, p. 104. - -28. Cooke City _versus_ the National Park. New York: _Forest and -Stream_, December 8, 1892, p. 16. - -Cope, E. D., 145. - -Corps of Engineers, Officers of, Annual Reports of, 6. - -Coues, Elliott, 57. - -Coulter, J. M., 10. - -Craighill, W. E., 6. - -Dana, E. S., 89. - -De Lacy, W., 72, 114. - -De Vallibus, 132. - -Donne, G. C., 136. - -Donaldson, T., 87. - -Driscoll, C. F., 142. - -Dudley, W. H., 159. - -Dunraven, Earl of, 53. - -29. Earth, The, and its Inhabitants. Élisée Reclus. Vol. iii. New -York: D. Appleton & Co. 1893. Contains numerous references to the Y. -N. P. - -Eccles, James, 70, 99. - -Eldridge, G. H., 44. - -30. Elk Hunt, An, at Two-Ocean Pass. Theodore Roosevelt. _The -Century_, vol. xliv, p. 713. - -Ellsworth, Spencer, 86. - -31. Enchanted Land, The, or an October Ramble among the Geysers, etc., -of the Y. N. P. Illustrated. 8vo. pp. 48. Paper. R. E. Strahorn. -Omaha. 1881. - -Evermann, B. W., 91. - -Everts, T. C., 110. - -32. Expedition through the Big Horn Mountains, Y. N. P., etc., in -1881. Report by Lieutenant-General P. H. Sheridan, with sub-reports by -Lieutenant-Colonel J. F. Gregory, A. D. C., Surgeon W. H. Forwood, U. -S. A., and Captain S. C. Kellogg, U. S. A. Washington: Government -Printing Office. 1882. - -33. Expedition to the Yellowstone. _Analectic Magazine_, vol. xv, pp. -293, 347. - -34. Exploration of Parts of Wyoming, Idaho, and Montana, in 1882. -Report by Lieutenant-General P. H. Sheridan, with sub-reports by -Lieutenant-Colonel J. F. Gregory, A. D. C., and Surgeon W. H. Forwood, -U. S. A. Washington: Government Printing Office. 1882. - -35. Exploration of the Yellowstone and the Country drained by that -River. W. F. Raynolds, Brevet Brigadier-General U. S. A. Sen. Ex. Doc. -No. 77, 40th Cong., 1st Sess. On page 10 is a reference to the geyser -regions. - -36. Falls of the Yellowstone. Howard O'Neil. _Southern Magazine_, vol. -ix., p. 219. - -37. Falls of the Yellowstone. Moses Thatcher. _The Contributor._ Salt -Lake City. Vol. v, p. 140. - -Ferris, G. T., 84. - -38. Fifth Avenue to Alaska. Edward Pierrepont. New York: G. P. Putnam -Sons, 1884, p. 237. Printed for private circulation only. - -Folsom, D. E., 119. - -Forbes, S. A., 13. - -Forest Reservation, The Y. N. P. as a, 157. - -Forwood, W. H., 32, 34. - -39. Fossil Forests of the Volcanic Tertiary Formations of the Y. N. P. -W. H. Holmes. Bulletin United States Geological Survey, vol. v, p. -125. Washington: Government Printing Office. 1879. - -40. Fossil Forests of the Yellowstone. Walter Harvey Weed. _School of -Mines Quarterly_, vol. xiii, no. 3. - -41. Fossil Forests of the Yellowstone. Prof. Samuel E. Tillman. United -States Military Academy. _Popular Science Monthly_, vol. xliii, p. -301, July, 1893. - -42. Fossil Forests of the Yellowstone. Prof. Frank H. Knowlton, P. H. -D. _The Epoch_, vol. i, no. 1, p. 18. April, 1895. - -Francis, E., 49. - -Frankland, E., 143. - -Game Exploration, Y. N. P., 158. - -Game Preserve, The Y. N. P. as a, 2. - -Gannett, H., 10, 11, 153. - -Geike, A., 48. - -Geological Chemistry of the Y. N. P. Contributions to the, 27. - -43. Geological History of the Y. N. P. Arnold Hague. _Transactions -American Institute of Mining Engineers_, vol. xvi, 1888. Also in -Smithsonian Report for 1892, p. 133. - -44. Geological Reconnaissance in North-western Wyoming. George Homans -Eldridge. Bulletin 119, United States Geological Survey. Washington: -Government Printing Office. 1894. - -45. Geology of Western Wyoming. Theo. B. Comstock. _American Journal -of Science._ 3d series, vol. vi, p. 426. - -Geyser Deposits, Analyses of, 4. - -Geyserland, Pilgrimage to, 86. - -Geysers, Action of, 1. - -46. Geysers and how they are explained. Joseph Le Conte. _Popular -Science Monthly_, vol. xii, p. 407. - -47. Geysers, Comparisons of. A. C. Peale. _Science_, vol. ii, p. 101. - -48. Geysers of the Yellowstone. Archibald Geike. _Macmillan_, vol. -xliv, p. 421. Same article, _Appleton's Journal_, vol. xxvi, p. 538; -and _Eclectic Magazine_, vol. xcviii, p. 124. - -49. Geysers of the Yellowstone. E. Francis. _Nineteenth Century_, vol. -xi, p. 369. Same article in Living Age, vol. cliii, p. 31, and -_Eclectic Magazine_, vol. xcviii, p. 598. - -Geysers of the Yellowstone, Among the, 3. - -Geyser Regions, The World's, 134. - -Geysers, Soaping, 102, 103, 104. - -50. Gigantic "Pleasuring Ground," A. _Nature_, vol. vi, pp. 397, 437. - -51. Glacial Phenomena in the Y. N. P. W. H. Holmes. _American -Naturalist_, vol. xv, p. 203. - -52. Gold Hunt on the Yellowstone, A. Edward B. Nealley. -_Lippincott's_, vol. ix, p. 204. - -Gooch, F. A., 5. - -53. Great Divide, The. Earl of Dunraven. London: Chatto and Windus. -1876. - -54. Great West, The. A Journal of Rambles over Mountain and Plain. P. -W. Norris. A long series of articles under the above title appeared in -the _Norris Suburban_ in 1876, '7, '8. They deal largely with the Y. -N. P., and contain much of historic value. Norris subsequently -rearranged and extended these articles with a view to publication in -book form; but death interrupted his purpose. The manuscript is now in -the possession of William Hallett Phillips, of Washington, D. C. - -Gregory, J. F., 32, 34, 66. - -Grinnell, G. B., 2, 61, 89. - -55. Grotto Geyser, The. F. V. Hayden. Washington: Government Printing -Office. 1876. - -56. Guide Books of the Y. N. P. The guide books of the Park are -numerous; but as they are all similar in character, and generally -supplanted by the latest issue, it seems unnecessary to give a full -list of them. Among those who have prepared guides or manuals of the -Park, of practical value to the tourist, may be mentioned H. J. -Norton, P. W. Norris, Henry J. Winser, G. L. Henderson, W. W. & S. K. -Wiley, W. C. Riley, F. J. Haynes, A. B. Guptill, and the Northern -Pacific and Union Pacific Railway Companies. The leading authorities -at the present time are Haynes' (St. Paul) Guide Book and O. D. -Wheeler's (N. P. R. R.) "Wonderland" Series. See "Wonderland Series." - -Gunnison, J. W., 77. - -Guptill, A. B., 56, 148. - -Hague, Arnold, 2, 12, 43, 67, 102, 154, 156, 157. - -Harris, Moses, 8. - -Harrison, Carter, 107. - -Hayden, F. V., 9, 10, 11, 55, 59, 60, 117, 127, 128, 140, 160. - -Hayden, Mt., Ascent of, 14. - -Haynes, F. J., 56, 66, 162. - -Heap, D. P., 94. - -Hedges, C., 137. - -Henderson, G. L., 56, 161. - -Heizman, C. L., 90, 108. - -57. History of the Expeditions under the Command of Lewis and Clark, -to the Sources of the Missouri River, thence across the Rocky -Mountains and down the Columbia River to the Pacific Ocean. Performed -during the Years 1804-5-6, by Order of the Government of the United -States. Elliott Coues. 4 vols. New York: Francis P. Harper. 1893. -Pages 283, 1153, 1154, 1181, and 1182 contain references to the Y. N. -P. - -Holmes, W. H., 11, 39, 51, 82. - -58. Horseback Rides through the Y. N. P. H. J. Norton. Virginia City, -Mont. 1874. The first real guide book of the Park. - -59. Hot Springs and Geysers of the Yellowstone and Firehole Rivers. F. -V. Hayden. _American Journal of Science_, vol. ciii, pp. 105, 161. - -60. Hot Springs of the Y. N. P. F. V. Hayden. In _The Great West_, -Philadelphia: Franklin Publishing Co. 1880. - -Hough, E., 158. - -Howard, O. O., 79, 81. - -Hoyt, J. W., 93. - -61. Hunting in Many Lands. Book of the Boone and Crockett Club. Vol. -ii. Editors, Theodore Roosevelt and George Bird Grinnell. New York: -Forest and Stream Publishing Company. 1895. Contains an article by -Captain G. S. Anderson, 6th U. S. Cavalry, on "Protection in the Y. N. -P.", and one by the Editors on "The Yellowstone Park Protective Act." - -Iddings, J. P., 156. - -62. Illustrations of the Manners, Customs, and Condition of the North -American Indians. George Catlin. 2 vols. London: Henry G. Bohn. 1857. -Pages 261-2 contain reference to Catlin's Park project. Published also -in New York. 1841. - -63. Indian Remains on the Upper Yellowstone. William S. Brackett. -Smithsonian Institute Report for 1892, p. 577. - -64. Inspection Made in the Summer of 1877 by Generals P. H. Sheridan -and W. T. Sherman. Contains letters from General Sherman to the -Secretary of War, and reports by General Sheridan, Colonel O. M. Poe, -and other officers. Washington: Government Printing Office. 1878. - -Irving, Washington, 15, 21. - -65. John Colter. Professor J. D. Butler. _Magazine American History_, -vol. xii, no. 1, p. 83. - -Jones, W. A., 6, 90. - -Jones, W. P., 153. - -Jordan, D. S., 92, 150. - -Joseph, Nez Percé, 81. - -66. Journey through the Yellowstone National Park and North-western -Wyoming. 1883. Photographs of Party and Scenery along the Route -Traveled, and Copies of the Associated Press Dispatches sent whilst En -Route. Washington: Government Printing Office. - -This book, of which only twelve copies were ever made, is the record -of the journey of President Arthur through the Park as the guest of -Lieutenant-General Sheridan in 1883. The dispatches were mostly -written by Lieutenant-Colonel M. V. Sheridan, Military Secretary, and -by Lieutenant-Colonel James F. Gregory, Aide-de-Camp; but at least one -dispatch was written by each of the other members of the party, except -the President. All the dispatches were read to and approved by the -President before being sent. No newspaper correspondent accompanied -the expedition. The photographs, which form an important feature of -the book, were taken by F. J. Haynes, who accompanied the party. - -Kellogg, S. C., 32. - -Kingman, D. C., 6. - -Knowlton, F. H., 42. - -Koch, Peter, 144. - -Langford, N. P., 8, 10, 14, 119, 120, 129, 137. - -Le Conte, Joseph, 46. - -Leffmann, Henry, 4, 27. - -Leidy, Joseph, 9. - -Lewis and Clark, 57. - -Liederkranz Expedition to the Y. N. P., 159. - -Linton, Edwin, 85. - -Ludlow, William, 89. - -Maguire, H. N., 20. - -67. Map of the North-west, An Early. Arnold Hague. _Science_, vol. x, -p. 217. - -68. Map of the Y. N. P. _Science_, vol. xi, p. 255. - -69. Marvels of the Yellowstone. _Leisure Hour_, vol. xxi, p. 134. - -Merriam, C. H., 10. - -70. Microscopical Character of Vitreous Rocks of Montana. Frank Rutley -and James Eccles. _Quarterly Journal Geological Society_, London, vol. -xxxvii, p. 391. - -71. Military Road from Fort Walla Walla to Fort Benton, Report on -Construction of. Captain John Mullan, U. S. A. Washington: Government -Printing Office. 1863. Pages 19 and 53 refer to geysers and hot -springs near the Upper Yellowstone. - -72. Mineral Resources of the States and Territories. Rossiter W. -Raymond. Washington: Government Printing Office. 1869. Page 142 quotes -W. W. De Lacy in regard to hot springs on the Firehole and Snake -Rivers. - -73. Mineral Springs of the United States. A. C. Peale. Bulletin No. -32, United States Geological Survey. Washington: Government Printing -Office. - -74. Mineral Springs of the United States. A. C. Peale. _Popular -Science Monthly_, vol. xxx, p. 711. - -75. Mineral Springs of the United States and Canada. G. E. Walton. -_Popular Science Monthly_, vol. iii, p. 515. - -76. Mineral Waters of the Y. N. P. A. C. Peale. _Science_, vol. xvii, -p. 36. - -Mitchell, S. W., 112. - -Montana Historical Society, Transactions of, 114. - -77. Mormons or Latter Day Saints, A History of. Captain J. W. -Gunnison, U. S. A. Philadelphia: Lippincott, Grambo & Co. 1852. Also -Philadelphia: J. B. Lippincott & Co. 1856. Page 151 contains a -reference to Bridger's knowledge of the geyser regions. - -Mullan, John, 71. - -National Park, Our Great, 83. - -Nealley, E. B., 52. - -78. New North-west, The. _The Century_, vol. xxiv, p. 504. - -79. Nez Percé Campaign, The, Reports of General Howard and other -officers upon. Vol. i, Reports of Secretary of War for 1877. -Washington: Government Printing Office. 1877. - -Nez Percé Campaign, The, 18, 79, 80, 81. - -80. Nez Percé Indians, Report of Civil and Military Commission to -inquire into Grievances of. Vol. i, Report of Secretary of the -Interior for 1877, p. 607. Nez Percé War described on pp. 405-409, -same volume. Washington: Government Printing Office. 1877. - -81. Nez Percé Joseph. History of the Nez Percé Campaign of 1877. -General O. O. Howard. Boston. Lee and Shepard. 1881. - -Norris, P. W., 8, 23, 54, 56. - -Northern Pacific Railway Co., 56, 126. - -Norton, H. J., 56, 58. - -82. Notes on an Extensive Deposit of Obsidian in the Y. N. P. W. H. -Holmes. _American Naturalist_, vol. xiii, p. 247. - -Obsidian in the Y. N. P., 82. - -O'Neil, H., 36. - -83. Our Great National Park. O. B. Bunce. In _Picturesque America; or, -the Land we Live in_, vol. i, p. 292. New York: D. Appleton & Co. -1872. - -84. Our Native Land, or Glances at American Scenery and Places. -George T. Ferris. New York: D. Appleton & Co., 1886, pp. 148-178. - -Overhead Sounds in the Vicinity of the Yellowstone Lake. S. A. Forbes. -Page 215, _Preliminary Report on Aquatic Invertebrate Fauna, in the Y. -N. P._, 13. - -85. Overhead Sounds in the Vicinity of the Yellowstone Lake. Edwin -Linton. _Science_, vol. xxii, No. 561, p. 244. - -Owen, W. O., 19. - -Parry, C. C., 22, 90. - -Peale, A. C., 9, 10, 11, 47, 73, 74, 76, 109, 134. - -Peck, J. K., 155. - -Pierrepont, Edward, 38. - -86. Pilgrimage to Geyserland. Spencer Ellsworth. Lacon, Ill. 1883. - -Poe, O. M., 64. - -Porter, R. P., 153. - -Porter, T. C., 9. - -Protection in the Y. N. P., 61. - -Protective Act, Y. N. P., 61. - -87. Public Domain, The. Its History with Statistics. Thomas Donaldson. -Washington: Government Printing Office, 1884, p. 1294. - -88. Rambles in Wonderland. Edwin J. Stanley. New York: D. Appleton & -Co. 1873. - -Raymond, R. W., 72, 104, 105, 106, 130. - -Raynolds, W. F., 35. - -Reclus, Élisée, 29. - -89. Reconnaissance from Carroll, Montana, to the Y. N. P. Captain (now -Lieutenant-Colonel) Wm. Ludlow, Corps of Engineers, U. S. A., with -sub-reports by George Bird Grinnell and Edward S. Dana. Appendix N N, -Chief of Engineers' Report for 1876. Washington: Government Printing -Office. 1876. Also published separately in quarto, 155 pages. 1876. - -90. Reconnaissance of North-western Wyoming, including the Y. N. P., -made in the summer of 1873. Captain W. A. Jones, of the Corps of -Engineers, with sub-reports by Prof. Theo. B. Comstock, Dr. C. L. -Heizman, U. S. A., and Dr. C. C. Parry. Washington: Government -Printing Office. 1875. - -91. Reconnaissance of the Streams and Lakes of Western Montana and -North-western Wyoming. Barton W. Evermann. In Report of the United -States Commissioner of Fish and Fisheries. Washington: Government -Printing Office. 1892, pp. 1-58. - -92. Reconnaissance of the Streams and Lakes of the Yellowstone -National Park, Wyoming, in the interests of the United States Fish -Commission. David Starr Jordan. Bulletin United States Fish -Commission, vol. ix, pp. 41-63. Washington: Government Printing -Office. 1890. - -93. Reconnaissance for a Wagon Road to the National Park. Gov. John W. -Hoyt, of Wyoming. In Annual Report of Secretary of the Interior, 1881. -Vol. ii, p. 1074. Washington: Government Printing Office. 1881. - -94. Reconnaissance of the Yellowstone River in 1871. Captains Barlow -and Heap, of the United States Corps of Engineers. Sen. Ex. Doc. No. -66, 42d Cong., 2d Sess. - -95. Report upon United States Geographical Surveys West of the One -Hundredth Meridian. Captain George M. Wheeler, Corps of Engineers, U. -S. A. Washington: Government Printing Office. 1889. Vol. i contains a -memoir upon the Voyages, Explorations, and Surveys pertaining to that -portion of the United States west of the Mississippi River from the -year 1500 to 1880, including an epitome of a Memoir by Lieutenant G. -K. Warren, covering the period from 1800 to 1857. - -96. Resources of Montana Territory and Attractions of the Y. N. P. R. -E. Strahorn. Helena, Montana: Montana Legislative Assembly. 1879. - -Richardson, James, 131. - -Riley, W. C., 56. - -97. River of the West, The. Frances Fuller Victor. Hartford, Conn.: -Columbian Book Company. 1871. Pages 75 and 76 contain a description of -some of the hot springs districts of the Park as seen in 1829. - -98. Roads in the Y. N. P. Lieutenant H. M. Chittenden, U. S. A. _Good -Roads_, vol. v, no. 1, p. 1. - -Roberts, E., 3, 146. - -99. Rocky Mountain Region of Wyoming and Idaho. James Eccles. _Alpine -Journal_, London. Vol. ix, p. 241. - -Rollins, A. W., 111. - -Roosevelt, Theodore, 2, 30, 61. - -Rutgers, L., 17. - -Rutley, F., 70. - -Saltus, J. S., 123. - -Sanitarium, A Winter, 124. - -Sargent, C. S., 149. - -100. Scorodite from the Y. N. P. J. Edward Whitfield. Bulletin U. S. -G. S., No. 55. Washington: Government Printing Office. 1889. - -Sears, C. B., 6. - -Secretaries of the Interior, Annual Reports of, 7, 80, 93. - -Sessions, F. C., 147. - -Sheridan, M. V., 66. - -Sheridan, P. H., 32, 34, 64, 66. - -Sherman, W. T., 64. - -Shields, G. O., 18. - -101. Siliceous Pebbles from the Geyser of the Yellowstone Cañon. A. P. -Townsend. _American Chemist_, vol. iii, p. 288. - -Siliceous Sinter, Formation of, 12. - -102. Soaping Geysers. Arnold Hague. _Science_, vol. xiii, p. 382. Also -in Smithsonian Report for 1892, p. 153. - -103. Soaping Geysers. _Popular Science Monthly_, vol. xxxvii, p. 139. - -104. Soaping Geysers. R. W. Raymond. Transactions of the American -Institute of Mining Engineers, Buffalo Meeting, October, 1888. - -Stanley, E. J., 88. - -105. Statistics of Mines and Mining. Rossiter W. Raymond. Washington: -Government Printing Office. 1870. Page 312 contains references to the -geysers of the Yellowstone. - -106. Statistics of Mines and Mining. Rossiter W. Raymond. Washington: -Government Printing Office. 1872. Pages 213-216 contain a reference to -the geysers from the pen of General Washburn. - -Strahorn, R. E., 31, 96. - -Strong, W. E., 116. - -107. Summer's Outing, A, or, The Old Man's Story. Carter Harrison. -Chicago: Dibble Publishing Company. 1891. - -Superintendents of the Y. N. P., Annual Reports of, 8. - -Tetons, The Three, 111. - -Thatcher, M., 37. - -108. Therapeutical Value of the Springs in the Y. N. P. Dr. C. L. -Heizmann, U. S. A. Philadelphia. _Medical Times_, vol. vi, p. 409. - -109. Thermal Springs of the Y. N. P., Report on. A. C. Peale. _Popular -Science Monthly_, vol. xxiii, p. 515. - -110. Thirty-seven Days of Peril. Truman C. Everts. _Scribner's -Monthly_, vol. iii, p. 1. - -111. Three Tetons, The. Alice Wellington Rollins. _Harper's_, vol. -lxxiv, p. 869. - -112. Through the Yellowstone Park to Fort Custer. Dr. S. Weir -Mitchell. _Lippincott's_, vol. xxvi, p. 29. - -113. Through the Yellowstone Park on Horseback. G. W. Wingate. New -York: Orange Judd. Co. 1886. - -Tillman, S. E., 41. - -Topping, E. S., 25. - -Townsend, A. P., 101. - -114. Transactions Montana Historical Society, vol. i. Helena, Montana: -Rocky Mountain Publishing Company. 1876. Contains numerous references -to the Upper Yellowstone, the most important of which is an article -entitled "Trip up the South Snake River," by Walter W. De Lacy. - -115. Travels in the Interior of America in the years 1808-10-11. John -Bradbury. Liverpool: 1817. - -Travertine, Formation of, 12. - -Trip up the South Snake River in 1863. Walter W. De Lacy, 114. - -116. Trip to the Y. N. P., in July, August and September, 1875. Gen. -W. E. Strong. Washington. 1876. - -Trumbull, Walter, 121, 137. - -117. Two-Ocean Pass, The So-called. Dr. F. V. Hayden. Vol. v, -Bulletins United States Geological Survey of the Territories, p. 223. - -Two-Ocean Pass, 30, 91, 117. - -118. Unexplained Phenomena of the Geyser Basins of the Y. N. P. -Theodore B. Comstock. _Popular Science Monthly_, vol. xii, p. 372. - -Union Pacific Railroad Company, 56. - -United States Geological Survey, Annual Reports of, 9 to 12. - -119. Valley of the Upper Yellowstone. David E. Folsom. _Western -Monthly_, vol. iv, p. 60, July, 1870. Reprinted by Mr. N. P. Langford, -with an interesting preface by himself. St. Paul, Minn. 1894. - -Vegetation of Hot Waters, 12. - -Victor, F. F., 97. - -120. Vigilante Days and Ways. N. P. Langford. St. Paul: D. D. Merrill -& Co. 1893. Contains numerous references to the Park. - -Walton, G. E., 75. - -Warren, G. K., 95. - -Washburn, H. D., 106, 137. - -121. Washburn Yellowstone Expedition, The. Walter Trumbull. _Overland -Monthly_, vol. vi, pp. 431, 489. - -122. _Wasp, The._ Vol. i, No. 17, August 13, 1842. Contains the -article quoted on pp. 44-49, stated to have been an extract from an -unpublished work entitled "Life in the Rocky Mountains." Author -unknown. _The Wasp_ was a Mormon paper, published at Nauvoo, Ill. - -Wear, D. W., 8. - -Weed, W. H., 12, 40, 156. - -123. Week in the Yellowstone, A. J. Sanford Saltus. New York: -Knickerbocker Press. 1895. Printed for private circulation. - -Wheeler, G. M., 95. - -Wheeler, O. D., 56, 126. - -Whitfield, J. E., 5, 100. - -Wiley, W. W. and S. K., 56. - -Wilson, S. A., 135. - -Wingate, G. W., 113. - -Winser, H. J., 56. - -124. Winter Sanitarium for the American Continent. _Popular Science -Monthly_, vol. xxvii, p. 290. - -125. Wonderland of America. Robert Brown. In the _Countries of the -World_, vol. iv. London, Paris, and New York. - -Wonderland, American, The Black Hills and, 20. - -Wonderland, Rambles in, 88. - -126. Wonderland Series. O. D. Wheeler. Annual Publication of Northern -Pacific Railroad Company, describing the country along the line of -that railroad. These books all contain valuable articles on the Park. -They include "6,000 Miles through Wonderland," 1893, "Indianland and -Wonderland," 1894, and "Sketches of Wonderland," 1895. - -127. Wonders of the Rocky Mountains. The Y. N. P. How to reach it. F. -V. Hayden. In _Williams' Illustrated Guide to the Pacific Railroad, -California_, etc. New York. 1876. - -128. Wonders of the West. More about the Yellowstone. F. V. Hayden. -_Scribner's Monthly_, vol. iii, No. 4, p. 388. - -129. Wonders of the Yellowstone, The. N. P. Langford. _Scribner's -Monthly_, vol. ii, pp. 1, 113. - -130. Wonders of the Yellowstone, The. Rossiter W. Raymond. In his -_Camp and Cabin_. New York: Fords, Howard & Hulburt. 1880. - -131. Wonders of the Yellowstone, The. James Richardson. New York: -Scribner, Armstrong & Co. 1872. - -132. Wonders of the Yellowstone, The. De Vallibus. _Contributor_, Salt -Lake City, vol. v, pp. 5, 47, 86. - -133. Wonders of the Yellowstone Region. _Chambers' Journal_, vol. li, -p. 315. - -134. World's Geyser Regions, The. A. C. Peale. _Popular Science -Monthly_, vol. xxvii, p. 494. - -Wright, G. M., 156. - -Yellowstone, Chronicles of the, 25. - -Yellowstone Expedition, 121. - -135. Yellowstone Expedition of 1863. S. A. Wilson. _Magazine Western -History_, vol. xiii, pp. 448, 668. - -136. Yellowstone Expedition of 1870, Report upon. Lieutenant Gustavus -C. Doane. Sen. Ex. Doc. No. 51, 41st Cong., 3d Sess. - -137. Yellowstone Expedition of 1870. A Series of Articles in Montana -Papers, describing the Expedition. These consisted of articles by Mr. -Langford in the _Helena Herald_; "Notes" by General Washburn in the -same paper; a series of articles, including "Sulphur Mountain and Mud -Volcano," "Hell-broth Springs," "Yellowstone Lake," "Mt. Everts," and -others, by Mr. Hedges, published in the _Herald_; and a similar series -in the _Helena Gazette_ by Walter Trumbull. These articles appeared -between September 26, 1870, immediately after the return of the -Expedition, and November 12th, the date of the banquet given to Mr. -Everts after his miraculous escape from his terrible adventure. - -Yellowstone, Expedition to the, 33. - -Yellowstone, Exploration of the, 35. - -Yellowstone, Falls of the, 36, 37. - -Yellowstone, Fossil Forests of the, 39, 40, 41, 42. - -Yellowstone, Geysers and Hot Springs of the, 3, 31, 48, 49, 59, 60. - -Yellowstone, Gold Hunt on the, 52. - -Yellowstone, Indian Remains on the, 63. - -Yellowstone Lake, Overhead Sounds in the Vicinity of, 13, 85. - -Yellowstone, Marvels of the, 69. - -138. Yellowstone National Park. _Scribner's Monthly_, vol. iv, p. 120. - -139. Yellowstone National Park. _Manhattan Illustrated Monthly_, vol. -iv, No. 2, p. 129, August, 1884. - -140. Yellowstone National Park. F. V. Hayden. _American Journal of -Science_, vol. ciii, p. 294. - -141. Yellowstone National Park. Theo. B. Comstock. _American -Naturalist_, vol. viii, pp. 65, 155. - -142. Yellowstone National Park. Charles F. Driscoll. _American -Architect_, vol. xiii, p. 130. - -143. Yellowstone National Park. E. Frankland. _Popular Science -Monthly_, vol. xxvii, p. 289. - -144. Yellowstone National Park. Peter Koch. _Magazine American -History_, vol. xi, p. 497. - -145. Yellowstone National Park. E. D. Cope. _American Naturalist_, -vol. xix, p. 1017. - -146. Yellowstone National Park. E. Roberts. _Art Journal_, vol. xl, -pp. 193, 325. - -147. Yellowstone National Park. F. C. Sessions. _Magazine Western -History_, vol. vi, p. 433. - -148. Yellowstone National Park. A. B. Guptill. _Outing_, vol. xvi, p. -256. - -149. Yellowstone National Park. C. G. Sargent. _Garden and Forest_, -vol. vii, p. 131. - -150. Yellowstone National Park. D. S. Jordan. _Around the World_, vol. -i, p. 148. - -151. Yellowstone National Park. (Anon.) _Nature_, vol. v, p. 403; vi, -pp. 397, 437. - -152. Yellowstone National Park. G. P. Brockett. In _Our Western -Empire_, chap. xxii. Philadelphia, 1881. - -153. Yellowstone National Park. Robert P. Porter, Henry Gannett, and -W. P. Jones. In _The West from the Census of 1880_. Chicago: Rand, -McNally & Co. 1882. - -154. Yellowstone National Park. Arnold Hague. Extract from the -proceedings of the Fifth Session of the International Congress of -Geologists. Washington, 1891. - -155. Yellowstone National Park. J. K. Peck. In his _Seven Wonders of -the World_. New York: Hunt and Eaton, p. 71. - -Yellowstone National Park, Analyses of Waters of, 5. - -Yellowstone National Park, Aquatic Invertebrate Fauna of, 13. - -Yellowstone National Park, Attractions of, 16, 96. - -Yellowstone National Park, Autumn in, 17. - -Yellowstone National Park, Camping in, 24. - -Yellowstone National Park, Cooke City _versus_, 28. - -Yellowstone National Park, Expeditions to or through, 32, 34. - -Yellowstone National Park, First Bicycle Tour of, 19. - -156. Yellowstone National Park Folio. (In preparation.) A publication -by the United States Geological Survey, consisting of four geological -and four topographical maps; a descriptive text by Prof. Arnold Hague, -of the United States Geological Survey; and a geological text by Prof. -Hague as Geologist in Charge, assisted by Messrs. J. P. Iddings, W. H. -Weed, and G. M. Wright. It is understood that this Folio is presently -to be followed by an exhaustive Monograph upon the Park. - -157. Yellowstone National Park as a Forest Reservation. Arnold Hague. -_Nation_, vol. xlvi, p. 9. - -158. Yellowstone National Park Game Exploration. E. Hough. Under the -above title a series of thirteen articles appeared in _Forest and -Stream_ in the summer of 1894, the first article appearing in the -issue of May 5, and the last in that of August 25 of that year. These -articles are of great interest and value as forming probably the most -complete discussion of the game question in the Park that has yet -appeared. Their descriptions of snow-shoe traveling and of the winter -scenery of that region are well worthy of perusal. The graphic -narrative of the arrest of the poacher, Howell, is an important -feature. - -Yellowstone National Park as a Game Preserve, 2. - -Yellowstone National Park, Geological Chemistry of, 27. - -Yellowstone National Park, Geological History of, 43. - -Yellowstone National Park, Glacial Phenomena in, 51. - -Yellowstone National Park, Guide Books of, 56. - -Yellowstone National Park, Horseback Rides through, 58. - -Yellowstone National Park, Hot Springs and Geysers of, 3, 31, 48, 49, -59, 60. - -Yellowstone National Park. How to reach it, 127. - -159. Yellowstone National Park from the Hurricane Deck of a Cayuse; -or, The Liederkranz Expedition to Geyserland. W. H. Dudley. Butte -City, Montana. 1886. - -Yellowstone National Park, Journey through, 66. - -Yellowstone National Park, Map of, 68. - -Yellowstone National Park, Mineral Waters of, 76. - -160. Yellowstone National Park and the Mountain Regions of Portions of -Idaho, Nevada, Colorado, and Utah. F. V. Hayden. Boston. 1876. Large -folio. - -Yellowstone National Park, Obsidian in, 82. - -161. Yellowstone National Park, Past, Present, and Future. Facts for -the Consideration of the Committee on Territories for 1891, and Future -Committees. G. L. Henderson. Washington: Gibson Brothers. 1891. - -162. Yellowstone National Park in Photogravure. F. J. Haynes. Fargo, -North Dakota. 1887. - -Yellowstone National Park, Protection in, 61. - -Yellowstone National Park, Protective Act, 61. - -Yellowstone National Park, Reconnaissance to, 89, 90. - -Yellowstone National Park, Reconnaissance of Streams and Lakes of, 91, -92. - -Yellowstone National Park, Reconnaissance for a Wagon Road to, 93. - -Yellowstone National Park, Roads in, 98. - -Yellowstone National Park, Scorodite in, 100. - -Yellowstone National Park, Therapeutical Value of Springs of, 108. - -Yellowstone National Park, Thermal Springs of, 109. - -Yellowstone National Park, Through the, to Fort Custer, 112. - -Yellowstone National Park, Through the, on Horseback, 113. - -Yellowstone National Park, A Trip to, 116. - -Yellowstone National Park, Unexplained Phenomena of, 118. - -Yellowstone River, Reconnaissance of, 94. - -Yellowstone, Valley of the Upper, 119. - -Yellowstone, A Week in the, 123. - -Yellowstone, Wonders of the, 129, 130, 131, 132, 133. - - -INDEX. - - - [Appendices A and E being carefully arranged alphabetically, names - found in them are not included in this index unless they also occur - in the main body of the work. The few abbreviations used are - self-explanatory.] - - - Absaroka, Indian name for Crow Tribe, 8. - Absaroka Range, name considered, 289. - described, 152, 240. - first ascent of, 80, 295. - first crossed, 104. - profile of human face in, 243. - Act of Dedication becomes a law, 95. - comments upon, 96, 97. - history of, 92-5. - provisions of, 127. - text of, 345. - vote on, 95. - Act of 1883, Military Assistance in protecting Park, 134, 347. - Act of 1890, admitting Wyoming, 347. - Act of 1894, National Park Protective Act, 141, 145, 348. - Act of 1894, regulating leases, 141, 352. - Adirondacks, proposal for reservation in, 97. - Administration of the Park, 206-8. - Administrative History of the Y. N. P., 127-141. - Adverse reports on railroad projects, etc., 141. - Africa, preserve for big game in, 97. - thermal springs of, 161. - Alder Gulch, discovery of gold in, 66. - Algonquian family of Indians, 8. - territory, 37. - Altitudes in the Y. N. P., 154. - Alvarez, Spanish trader, 46, 49. - American Fur Company, historical sketch of, 34-5, 38. - American Fur Company, territory of, 35, 37. - Amethyst Mountain, 263. - Anderson, Captain G. S., eighth superintendent Y. N. P., 139. - plans capture of Howell, 143. - quoted, 273, 276. - Andesitic lava flows in Y. N. P., 157. - "Annie," first boat on Y. Lake, 336. - Antelope, habitat of, in Y. N. P., 216. - Apollinaris Spring, 217. - Appropriations for the Y. N. P., 357. - Area of the Y. N. P., 148. - Arnold, A. J., member of Helena tourist party, 112, 120. - Arsenic Geyser, 220. - Artemesia Geyser, 228. - Arthur, Chester A., visits Y. N. P., 107, 371. - Assistant Superintendents, Y. N. P., 135. - Astor, John Jacob, and the American fur trade, 34. - Astorians, The, 21, 23. - departure of, for Pacific coast, 31 - surrender to N. W. Fur Co., 33. - Astringent Creek, 143. - Atlantic Creek, 246. - Atmosphere of the Y. N. P., 199, 210. - Australia, thermal springs of, 161. - Autumn foliage in the Y. N. P., 192. - - - Baird, S. F., presents Lieutenant Doane's report to Phil. Soc. of - Washington, 83. - Bannock Indians, 8, 10. - incursion of, into Y. N. P., 126, 215. - territory of, 10. - Bannock Peak, 217. - Bannock Trail, 17, 24, 43. - Baring-Gould's theory of geyser action, 166. - Barlow, Captain J. W., expedition of, 85-6, 291. - quoted, 6, 231, 344. - report of, 86. - Baronett, C. J., biographical sketch, 292. - Baronett's Bridge burned, 124. - history of, 261. - Basaltic lava flows in Y. N. P., 157. - Bath Lake, 214. - Battle of trappers and Indians near Y. Lake, 49. - Battle of the Big Hole, 116. - Bays of the Y. Lake, 335. - Bears and tourists, 184. - Bear Creek, 70. - Beaver Lake, 219. - Bechler River, 151. - Bee Hive Geyser, 234. - Belknap, W. W., visits Y. N. P., 105. - Beryl Spring, 221. - Bibliography of the Y. N. P., 361. - Biddle Lake, first name for Jackson Lake, 331. - Big Game Ridge, 153. - Big Hole, Battle of the, 116. - Bighorn River, Lisa's fort on, 29, 31. - source of, 188. - Big Thunder, Nez Percé chief, 113. - Birds in the Y. N. P., 185. - Biscuit Basin, 228. - Blackfeet Indians, 8, 9. - territory of, 8, 9, 18. - treaties with, 18, 19. - Black Growler, 175, 220. - Black Sand Basin, 230. - Blaine, J. G., introduces Langford at Washington lecture, 84. - signs Act of Dedication, 346. - Block house, ancient, in Y. N. P., 41. - Boat, first on Y. Lake, 337. - Boat ride on Y. Lake, 243. - Boiling River, 212. - Boiling Springs in Y. N. P., 174. - Bonneville, Captain, 37. - refers to Firehole River, 49, 316. - Bottler's Ranch, 120. - Boundaries of the Y. N. P., 148, 278-280, 333. - Boutelle, Captain F. A., Seventh Superintendent of the Park, 139. - Bradbury, John, 3, 21. - Bradbury, John, interviews Colter, 28. - Bradley, F. H., quoted, 321, 331, 332, 333. - Bridge, Baronett. See _Baronett's Bridge_. - Bridge Creek, 244. - Bridge, Natural, 244. - Bridge over the Y. River, 203. - Bridger, James, ability of as guide, 328. - biographical sketch, 327. - acquaintance of with Park country, 51, 52, 61. - disbelieved by the public, 53, 57. - guide to Captain Raynolds, 59. - his stories, 54-56. - partner in Rocky Mountain Fur Company, 36. - and Two-Ocean Pass, 61, 245. - British Fur Companies, strife between, 34. - British Fur Traders excluded from U. S. Territory, 34. - Bronze Geyser, 240. - Buffalo of Y. N. P., 143, 184. - Buildings at Mammoth Hot Springs, 209, 216. - Buildings in Y. N. P. in 1880, 132. - Bunsen Peak, 215. - Bunsen's theory of geyser action, 163-5. - Burgess, Felix, government scout, 110. - arrests Howell, 143, 144. - "Burning Mountains," 13, 16. - - - Cache Creek, name of, 70. - Calcareous Springs in the Y. N. P., 173. - California, discovery of gold in, 39, 100. - Camas Creek, Battle of, 116. - Camping in the Y. N. P., 205. - Canadian National Park, 97. - Canadian Niagara Park, 97. - Cañon Hotel, 253. - Capes of the Y. Lake, 336. - Carpenter, Frank and Ida, members of Radersburg tourist party, 112. - experiences of, with Nez Percés, 117-19. - Carpenter, R. E., Fourth Superintendent Y. N. P., 136. - removed from office, 136. - Cascade Creek, 180, 253. - Castle Geyser, 167, 230. - Cathedral Rock, 215. - Catlin, George, biographical sketch of, 87-8. - Indian Gallery of, 88. - originates Park idea, 89. - quoted, 88-9. - Chittenden, Lieutenant, H. M., measures height of Upper Fall, 326. - Chouteau, Valle & Co. buy out Astor, 35. - Clagett W. H., his work for Park bill, 92, 94. - Claimants for credit of originating Park idea, 90. - Clark's Fork Mining District, 264. - Clark, Wm., gives names to Y. Lake and Jackson Lake, 24. - mentioned, 5, 21, 22. - receives information from Colter, 27, 31. - Cleopatra Spring, 214. - Climate of the Y. N. P., 189, 198. - Coast and Geodetic Survey, monument of, near Y. Lake, 248. - Cold-water geyser, 48. - Cole, Senator, remarks of, on Park bill, 94. - Colfax, Schuyler, signs Act of Dedication, 346. - Color of rock in Grand Cañon, 253. - water in Hot Springs, 172, 213. - Colter, John, adventure of, with the Blackfeet, 28-31. - character of, 21. - declines to join the Astorians, 31. - discovers Grand Cañon of the Y., 27. - discovers Jackson Lake, 24. - discovers Mammoth Hot Springs, 26. - discovers Tar Spring on the Stinkingwater, 23. - discovers Y. Lake, 24, 27. - gives Clark information, 31. - marries, 31. - receives discharge from Lewis and Clark, 20. - returns to St. Louis, 31. - whereabouts of, in winter of 1806-7, 22. - "Colter's Hell," 28, 31. - "Colter's River," 26. - "Colter's Route in 1807," 25-7. - Comet Geyser, 230. - Commission to examine into grievances of Nez Percé Indians, 114, 115. - Comstock, T. B., member of Captain Jones' party in 1873, 105. - Comstock, T. B., his theory of geyser action, 166. - quoted 342, 343, 344. - Conant Creek, trail along, 12, 24. - Cone Geysers, 167. - Conger, P. H., Third Superintendent of Y. N. P., 131. - resigns, 136. - Congress abolishes civilian police force in Park, 137. - Congress Geyser, 220. - Congressional Reports on Y. N. P., 141. - Constant Geyser, 220. - Continental Divide, 151, 238. - Cook, C. W., Member of Folsom Party in 1869, 73. - Cooke City, 264. - "Corduroying" on snow-shoes, 195. - Cost of visiting Y. N. P., 274. - Cowan, Mr. and Mrs. George F., members Radersburg tourist party, 112. - experiences of, with Nez Percés, 118-120. - re-visit Park, 120. - Craig Pass, 238, 338. - Cretaceous Period in Y. N. P., 156. - Crevice Creek, 71. - Crook, General George, visits Park, 106. - Crosby, Schuyler, appeals to Congress for protection to Y. N. P., 133. - member of presidential party, 1883, 107. - Crow Indians, territory of, 8, 18. - treaties with, 18, 19. - tribal characteristics, 8. - Crystal Falls, 80, 253. - Cubs, The, 232. - Cupid's Cave, 214. - - - Danger to future existence of Y. N. P., 281. - Dawes, Hon. H. L., 94, 336. - Dawes, Miss Anna L., 336. - Death Gulch, 264. - De Lacy Creek, 239. - De Lacy, W. W., discovers Lower Geyser Basin, 68. - discovers Shoshone Lake, 68. - history of his expedition, 67-69. - Deluge Geyser, 243. - Denudation and erosion, work of, in Y. N. P., 158. - "Devil," frequency of name in Y. N. P., 287, 388. - Devil's Kitchen, 214. - Diamond, The, Bridger's story of, 35. - Dietrich, Richard, member of Helena tourist party, 111. - killed by Nez Percés, 122. - Dingee, William, member of Helena tourist party, 112. - Discovery of gold, 65, 66. - Discovery of the Y., 72. - long delay in, 101. - Doane, Lieutenant G. C., ascends Absaroka Range, 80, 295. - biographical sketch, 294. - commands escort to Washburn Expedition, 14, 76. - descends Grand Cañon, 80. - guide to General Belknap, 105. - measures height of Upper Falls, 325. - quoted, 6, 14, 78, 175, 235, 237, 254, 261, 297, 325, 343. - report of, upon Washburn Expedition, 83. - Dome, The, 217. - Drainage areas of Y. N. P., 149. - "Dreamers" among the Nez Percés, 114. - Du Charne, Baptiste, upon the Upper Y. in 1824, 41. - Duncan, L., member of Helena tourist party, 1877, 111. - Dunnell, M. H., and Park bill, 93. - Dunraven, Earl of, 9. - publishes "Great Divide," 295. - quoted, 96. - visits Y. N. P., 295. - - - Early knowledge of the Y., 50, 60. - East Gardiner Cañon and Falls, 215. - Echinus Geyser, 220. - Elephant Back, original name for Washburn Range, 152, 296. - Electric Peak, 152, 215. - Electric railways in Y. N. P., 204, 276, 277, 280, 365. - Elk in Y. N. P., 184, 280. - Elliott, H. W., 336, 337. - Emerald Pool (Norris Geyser Basin), 220. - (Upper Geyser Basin), 230. - Equipment for snow-shoe traveling, 195. - Erosion, work of, in Y. N. P., 158. - Eustis Lake, first name for Y. Lake, 335. - Eustis, William, 334. - Evermann, B. W., describes Two-Ocean Pass, 245. - Everts, Mt., 153, 215, 216. - Everts, T. C., experience of, in 1870, 81, 297. - member of Washburn Party, 76. - Excelsior Geyser, 226. - Expedition of 1869. See _Folsom Expedition_. - of 1870. See _Washburn Expedition_. - Explorations by U. S. Government, relation of to Y. N. P., 100. - Explorers, rush of, to Y. N. P., 103. - - - Face, profile of in Absaroka Range, 293. - Fairy Fall, 226. - Falls River, 151. - Basin, 154. - Falls of the Yellowstone described, 251, 254. - measurement of, 80, 105, 325-6. - not on Colter's map, 27. - Fan Geyser, 229. - Fauna of the Y. N. P., 181. - Fearless Geyser, 220. - Firehole Cascade, 222. - Spring, 225. - River, 43, 150. - Fish Commission U. S., work of, in Y. N. P., 186. - Fishes of the Y. N. P., 185, 186. - Fishing Cone, story of, 56. - Fishing Cone, west shore Y. Lake, 242. - Fishless streams of the Y. N. P., 186. - Flora of the Y. N. P., 187. - Flow of water from Y. N. P., 190. - Flowers of the Y. N. P., 190. - Foller, August, member of Helena tourist party, 112. - Folsom, D. E., 73. - article by, in _Western Monthly_, 74. - measures Falls of the Y., 325. - quoted, 160, 241, 256. - suggests Park idea, 91. - Folsom Expedition, 72-4. - Forbes, S. A., quoted, 246. - Ford of the Y. River at Mud Geyser, 26, 249. - at Tower Creek, 261. - _Forest and Stream_, 145, 281, 383. - Forest Reserve, 148. - Forests of the Y. N. P., economic value of, 188. - effect of railroads upon, 272. - extent of, 187. - preservation of, 207. - Formations about geysers, 169. - Fort Yellowstone, 208, 216. - Fossil Forests of the Y., 177-180, 263. - Fountain Geyser, 167, 223. - Fountain geysers, 167. - Fountain Hotel, 223. - "Free trappers," 37. - French name for Y. River, 2, 7. - French and Indian War, 4. - Friends of the Y. N. P., 281. - Frying Pan, 219. - Funds for the Y. N. P.; lack of, 128. - Fur companies, growth and history, 32-36. - territory controlled by, 37. - Fur trade, climax in, 32, 39. - competition in, 38. - decline of, 39, 100. - in its relation to western exploration, 32, 99, 100. - - - Gallatin Range, 152. - Gallatin River, 26, 150. - Game preserve, the Y. N. P. as a, 181. - Game in the Y. N. P., destruction of, 183. - killing of, prohibited, 134. - present condition of, 184, 383. - protection of, 181, 207. - tourists and, 184. - Gandy, Captain C. M., photographic work of, in Y. N. P., vii. - Gannett, Henry, measures heights of Falls, 326. - quoted, 293, 295, 296. - Gardiner's Hole, 317. - Gardiner River, 150, 212. - early known to trappers, 43, 318. - Geographical names, importance of, 285. - policy of the U. S. G. S. in regard to, 286. - in the Y. N. P., 108, 285-6. - Geologic activity diminishing, 159. - Geology of the Y. N. P., 156-161. - Geyser action, theories concerning, 163-6. - "Geyser," etymology of, 162. - Geyser regions of the world, 160-161. - Geysers, description of, 162. - formations about, 169. - Soaping, 165. - underground connection, 169. - water supply for, 169. - Giant Geyser, 167, 230. - Giantess Geyser, 167, 232. - "Giant's Face," 244. - Gibbon Cañon, 221. - Gibbon Falls, 222. - Gibbon, John, 104. - battle of, with Nez Percés, 116. - Gibbon Meadows, 221. - Gibbon Paintpots, 221. - Gibbon River, 104, 150, 221. - Gillette, W. C., member of Washburn Party, 76. - Glacial Epoch in Y. N. P., 158. - Glaciers, channels of, 158. - Glass Mountain, Bridger's story, 54. - Gold, discovery of, 65. - in California, 39, 100. - in Idaho, 65. - in Montana, 65, 66. - in the Nez Percé Reservation, 113. - Golden Gate, 215. - Gold-seekers on the Yellowstone, 101. - Government officials and protection of Y. N. P., 282. - Grand Cañon of the Y., colors in, 6, 254. - Colter discovers the, 27. - description of, 253-8. - in winter, 257. - Grand Geyser, 167, 231. - Grand Teton, 153. - ascent of, 222, 309. - granite blocks near summit, 12, 222, 223. - name considered, 323. - Granite Block near Grand Cañon, 258. - Granite Blocks near summit of Grand Teton, 12, 222, 223. - Grant, U. S., signs Act of Dedication, 346. - Gray Peak, 217. - Great Bend of the Y., 6, 43. - Great Fountain Geyser, 167, 224. - Green River, 188. - Grinnell, G. B., 105. - Grotto Geyser, 229. - Grotto Spring, 249. - Gunnison, Captain J. W., and James Bridger, 52. - quoted, 52, 329. - - - Hague, Arnold, quoted, 160, 182, 286, 290, 306, 321. - referred to, 245, 322. - Hancock, Gen. W. S., 76, 300. - Harris, Captain Moses, quoted, 284. - Sixth Superintendent Y. N. P., 138. - Hart Lake, 151, 242 - Geyser Basin, 243. - Hauser, S. T., descends Grand Cañon, 80. - member of Washburn Party, 76. - Hayden and Barlow discover Mammoth Hot Springs, 85. - route of, 85, 86. - Hayden Expedition of 1871, 85, 86. - results, 86. - Hayden Expeditions of 1872 and 1878, 103. - Hayden, F. V., biographical sketch, 338-340. - connection of, with Park bill, 86, 92, 93, 95. - explorations of, in Y. N. P., 85, 103. - geologist to Captain Raynolds, 59. - quoted, 6, 95, 213, 286, 293, 294, 296, 301, 307, 314, 317, 330, - 332, 341. - referred to, 245. - Hayden Valley, 154, 250. - Haynes, F. J., accompanies Presidential party, 107, 371. - winter tours of Y. N. P., 109. - work of, in Y. N. P., vii. - Health resort, Y. N. P. as a, 199. - Heap, Captain D. P., with Captain Barlow, 1871, 85. - Hedges, Cornelius, member of Washburn Party, 76, 83. - quoted, 32, 76, 249, 320. - originates National Park project, 91. - _Helena Herald_, and Washburn Expedition, 83. - Helena tourists, 1877, 111. - experiences of, with Nez Percés, 121, 122. - Hell Roaring Creek, 71, 287. - Henry, Andrew, fur trader, 330. - Henry, Joseph, quoted, 89. - Henry Lake, 330. - Howard's command at, 116. - Highland Plateau, 153. - Holmes, Mount, 217. - Holmes, Wm. H., quoted, 306. - Hoodoo Region, 265. - Hostility to the Y. N. P., vi., 267-9. - Hotel system of Y. N. P., 204. - Hot Spring, color of water in, 172, 213. - Hot Springs of the Y. N. P., 162, 172-5. - Hot Springs and Geysers, water supply for, 169. - Hot Springs in Grand Cañon, 254. - Hough, E., connection of, with the Howell episode, 145, 383. - quoted, 258. - winter tour of, through Y. N. P., 110, 145. - Howard, General O. O., and Nez Percé campaign, 106, 115, 116, 123. - "Howard's Trail," 126. - Howell the Poacher, capture and conviction of, 144-6. - Hoyt, J. W., expedition of, 15, 106. - Hudson's Bay Fur Company, historical sketch 33-5. - territory of, 34, 37. - Hurricane, The, 220. - Huston, George, crosses Park country, 71. - - - Iceland, thermal springs of, 161. - Idaho, admission of, to Union, 282. - Indians and name Yellowstone, 3, 7, 16. - implements of, in Y. N. P., 12. - knowledge of, concerning the geyser regions, 8, 13-17, 98. - title of, to Y. N. P., 19. - traditions of, concerning Y. N. P., 16. - trails of, in Y. N. P., 11, 12, 13. - treaties with, 18, 19. - tribes of, near Y. N. P., 8. - visits of, to Park country, 17. - Inscription on pine tree near Grand Cañon, 40, 251. - Inspiration Point, 254. - Invalids at Mammoth Hot Springs in 1871, 200, 212. - Irving, Washington, quotes Bradbury, 28. - Isa Lake, 238. - Islands of Y. Lake, 335. - Itasca State Park, 97. - - - Jackson, David, fur trader, 36. - Jackson Lake, first named by Wm. Clark, 24, 331. - discovered, 24. - mentioned, 152, 222. - Jackson, W. H., photographer in Y. N. P., vii. - Jefferson Fork, scene of Colter's adventure, 29. - Jefferson, Thomas, 1. - Jewel Geyser, 228. - Jones Creek, 104. - Jones, Captain W. A., discovers and names Two-Gwo-Tee Pass, 105. - discovers Two-Ocean Pass, 104, 245. - expedition of, 15, 104. - first to cross Absaroka Range, 104. - measures Y. Falls, 326. - names mountains east of Park, 289. - quoted, 6. - Joseph, Non-treaty Nez Percé chief, 113, 126. - estimate of his character, 301. - Joseph Peak, 217. - Junction Butte, 261. - Junction Valley, 154, 263. - Jupiter Terrace, 214. - - - _Kansas City Journal_, editor of, rejects Bridger's statements, 53. - Kenck, Charles, member Helena Tourist Party, 112. - killed by Nez Percés, 122. - Kepler Cascade, 237. - Killing of game in Y. N. P. prohibited, 134. - Kingman, Lieutenant D. C., prepares project for Park road system, 140. - quoted, 271. - reports of, 140. - Kingman Pass, 215. - - - Lake Shore Geyser, 242. - Lake View, 240. - Lakes of the Y. N. P., 151. - Lamar River, 150. - Cañon of, 263. - Langford, N. P., 27, 55. - advocates Park project, 92. - ascends Absaroka Range, 80, 295. - ascends Grand Teton, 222, 309. - biographical sketch of, 302. - first Superintendent Y. N. P., 129. - lectures on the Washburn Expedition, 84. - measures height of Lower Fall, 325. - member of the Washburn Expedition, 75. - publishes articles on Washburn Expedition, 84. - quoted, 92, 232, 305, 312, 317. - reprints Folsom's article, 74. - work of, for Park Bill, 92-3. - Laws for Y. N. P., lack of, 127. - Leases, Act of 1894 regulating, 141, 352. - of land to Y. N. P. Improvement Co., 132. - and privileges in Y. N. P., 132, 207. - revenue from, 128. - Lewis and Clark among the Mandans, 1. - expedition of, 101. - give Colter his discharge, 20. - and North-west Fur Co., traders, 33. - use name "Yellow Stone," 1, 2. - quoted, 20. - return journey of, 20. - send report to President Jefferson, 1. - Lewis Lake, 151. - Lewis, Meriwether, kills a Blackfoot Indian, 9. - Lewis River, 151. - Liberty Cap, 214. - "Life in the Rocky Mountains," referred to, 44. - quoted from, 44, 48. - Lincoln Pass, 23. - Linton, Edwin, quoted, 247. - Lion Geyser, 232. - Lioness Geyser, 232. - Lisa, Manuel, at mouth of Bighorn River, 29. - Locomotive Spring, 220. - Lone Star Geyser, 167, 237. - "Lone Traders," 37. - Looking Glass, Nez Percé chief, 113. - Lookout Hill, 214. - Lookout Point, 254. - Louisiana, cession of to U. S., 3. - Lower Fall of the Y., described, 254. - recorded measurements of, 325-6 - Lower Geyser Basin, 223. - Ludlow, Captain William, explorations of, 105. - measures Falls of Y., 105, 326. - quoted, 209, 253, 297. - report of, 105. - - - Mackenzie, theory of geyser action, 166. - Madison Lake, 237, 333. - Madison Plateau, 153. - Madison River, 150. - Madison Valley, 154. - Mammoth Hot Springs, buildings at, 209, 216. - described, 173, 212. - discovery of, 26, 85. - Mandan Indians, 1, 2, 4. - Mann, Charles, member of Radersburg Tourist party, 112. - Map of Y. N. P., vii. - Map, Raynolds', 63. - Marten traps, discovery of cache of, 41. - Mason, Major J. W., commands escort to Governor Hoyt, 106. - Maynadier, Lieutenant, commands detachment of Raynolds Party, 59, 60. - quoted, 62. - McCartney, C. J., attacked by Nez Percés, 123. - McCartney Cave, 214. - Meek, Joseph, adventures of, 42. - Members of Congress from States near Park, 282-3. - Mexico, war with, 39, 100. - Middle Gardiner Falls and Cañon, 215. - Midway Geyser Basin, 226. - Mileage of Park Road System, 202. - Miles, General N. A., intercepts and captures Nez Percés, 124. - Mineral Springs of the Y. N. P., therapeutic value of, 199 - Minerva Terrace, 214. - Minnetaree, Indian dialect, 7. - Minute Man, 220. - Mirror Plateau, 153. - Missouri Fur Co., 29, 35. - _Missouri Gazette_, extract from, 21, 23. - Missouri River, 1, 4, 150, 188. - Missouri River, fur trade along, 35. - _Mi tsi a-da-zi_, Indian name for Yellowstone, 7. - Monarch Geyser, 220. - Montana Territory, becomes a state, 288. - early explorations in, 3. - emigration to, 66. - population of, in 1862, 66. - Monument Geyser Basin, 221. - Monument, survey, 248. - Moore, Charles, sketches by, 168. - records height of Falls, 326. - Moran, Thomas, painting by, 256. - quoted, 256. - Mormon emigration, 39, 100. - Morning Glory, 229. - Mound, artificial in Y. N. P., 12. - Mountain sheep of Y. N. P., 216. - Mountain stream of hot water, Bridger's story, 55. - Mountain Systems of the West, formation of, 156. - of the Y. N. P., 151, 152. - Mud Geyser, Norris Geyser Basin, 220. - Y. River, 249, - Mud Volcano, 248. - Mystic Fall, 228. - - - Names of Hot Springs and Geysers, 287. - Narrow Gauge Terrace, 214. - National Park project, origin of, 87-92. - National Park Protective Act, 110, 141-5, 348. - National Parks on sites of battle-fields, 97. - Natural Bridge, 244. - Navigation of Y. Lake and River, 203. - New Crater Geyser, 220. - _New York Tribune_ quotes Langford on Park project, 92. - New Zealand, thermal springs of, 97, 161. - Nez Percé Creek, 126, 150, 223. - Nez Percé Indians attack Y. N. P. tourists, 118, 121. - cede territory to U. S., 113. - characteristics of, 114. - fate of, 126. - impress white man as guide, 14. - incursion of, into Y. N. P., 117-123, 215. - surrender to Miles, 124. - territory of, 112. - treaties with, 113. - Nez Percé War, beginning of, 115. - causes of, 112, 115. - criticism upon, 125. - statistics of, 125. - Niagara Falls compared with the Falls of the Y., 251, 254. - original sketch of, 168. - Niagara Park, Canadian, 97. - New York State, 97. - Non-treaty Nez Percés, 113. - Norris, P. W., biographical sketch of, 303. - builds road of volcanic glass, 218. - criticism of his work, 131. - discoveries of, 40, 41, 108, 130. - names Dunraven Peak after himself, 295. - quoted, 15, 218, 265, 307, 314, 324, 331, 343. - road work of, 130. - second Superintendent Y. N. P., 14, 129, 130. - writings of, 131. - Norris Geyser Basin, 220, 340. - discovery of, 340. - North-west Fur Company and name "Yellowstone," 4. - sketch of, 33. - - - Oblong Geyser, 230. - Obsidian Cliff, 217. - first road past, 218. - Indian quarry at, 12, 217. - Old Faithful, 167, 234-6. - discovery of, 82. - Oldham, Albert, member Radersburg tourist party, 112. - "Old Man of the Mountains," 244. - Orange Geyser, 214. - Original sketches of Park scenery, 168, 169. - Orographic agencies, work of, in Park, 157. - Overhead sounds near Y. Lake, 246. - - - Pacific Creek, 246. - Pacific Fur Co., 34. - Paintpots described, 174. - on west shore Y. Lake, 242. - Peale, A. C., quoted, 13, 323, 344. - work of, in Y. N. P., 361, 363. - Pearl Geyser, 220. - Pend d'Oreilles Indians in geyser basins, 14, 45. - Peterson, W., member of Folsom party, 73. - Petrifactions in Y. N. P., Bridger's story, 56. - perfection of, 179. - Pfister, Frederick, member of Helena tourist party, 112. - Phillips, W. H., connection of, with Y. N. P., 281. - Photography of Grand Cañon, 256. - _Pierre Janne._ See _Roche Janne_. - Pierre's Hole, 24. - Pike, Z. M., gives Spanish translation of _Pierre Janne_, 5. - Pine, prevalence of, in Y. N. P., 188. - Pine tree inscribed with date 1819, 40, 251. - Pitchstone Plateau, 153. - Plateaus of the Y. N. P., 153. - Platte River, 188. - Poe, General O. M., 105. - quoted, 287. - Pompey's Pillar, 5. - Potts, companion of Colter, 29. - Precedent, effect of, upon future of Y. N. P, 284. - Presidential Party of 1883, 107, 371. - Prismatic Lake, 227. - Private interests and Y. N. P., 280. - Prospecting expeditions in the Upper Y., 7, 66-71. - Prospectors, unknown, slain by Nez Percés, 121. - Protection of game, 181, 207. - Protective Act, Y. N. P., 110, 141. - Public business in Y. N. P., 139. - Pulpit Terrace, 214. - Punch bowl, 230. - Pryor's Fork, 22. - Pryor's Gap, 23, 24. - - - Quadrant Mountain, 217. - Quiescent Springs, 172-3. - - - Radersburg tourist party, 1877, 112. - experiences of, with Nez Percés, 117-120. - Railroads and the Y. N. P., 133, 270-6, 280, 365. - Rapids of the Y. River, 251. - Raymond, R. W., quoted, 6. - Raynolds, Captain W. F., expedition of, 58, 59, 101. - map of, 62. - quoted, 60, 61, 62. - report of, 63. - Red Mountain Range, 152. - Rendezvous in the fur trade, 36. - Reservoir, Y. Lake as a, 190. - Rhyolitic rocks in Y. N. P., 157. - "River of the West," 42. - quoted from, 42, 317. - River sources in and near Y. N. P., 188. - Riverside Geyser, 229. - Road system of the Y. N. P., 140, 201-7. - Roberts, Joseph, member of Helena tourist party, 112. - _Roche Janne_, French name for Y. River, 2, 3, 7. - Rocky Mountains ascended by De La Verendrye, 4. - Rocky Mountain Fur Company sketch, of, 36, 38. - territory of, 36, 37. - Routes from the east to the Pacific Coast, 100. - Rules and Regulations for the Y. N. P., 354. - Rustic Falls, 215. - Rustic Geyser, old logs around, 13, 243. - - - Sapphire Pool, 228. - Scenery of the Y. N, P., 155, 209. - in winter, 197. - Scenic portion of tourist route, 260. - Schemes to destroy the Y. N. P., 268. - Schofield, Lieutenant, meets Radersburg tourists, 120. - Schurz, Carl, visits Park, 106. - Schwatka, Frederick, attempts winter journey through Y. N. P., 108. - Seasons in the Y. N. P., 193, 199 - Secretary of the Interior applies for military aid, 137. - instruction of, to first superintendent, 270. - Segregation projects, 133, 278, 280, 365. - Sepulcher Mountain, 215. - Sequoia National Park, 97. - Sheepeater Indians, 8, 18, 306. - characteristics of, 10, 11. - ignorant of geyser regions, 15. - number of, 17. - original occupants of park country, 10, 11, 13, 14, 17. - relics of, 13. - Sheridan Mt., 15, 152, 242. - an extinct volcano, 156. - Sheridan, General P. H., aids exploration and discovery, 75. - gives public warning of dangers to Park, 106, 133. - quoted, 15. - visits Park, 106, 107. - Sherman, General W. T., quoted, 111, 256. - visits Park, 105. - Shively, Nez Percé guide, 123. - Shoshonean family of Indians, 8. - territory, 37. - Shoshone Indians, 8, 18. - characteristics of, 9, 10. - Spanish articles among, 5. - treaty with, 18. - Shoshone Geyser Basin, 239. - Shoshone Lake, 151, 239, 333. - Shoshone Point, 239. - Sierra Shoshone Range, 152. - Silica, its function in geyser formation, 170. - Siouan family of Indians, 8. - territory, 37. - _Ski_, Norwegian snow-shoe, 194. - Slough Creek, 71. - Smith, Jacob, member of Washburn Party, 76. - Smith, Jedediah, fur trader, 36. - Snake Creek, battle of, 124. - Snake River, 26, 150. - Snowfall in Y. N. P., 193. - Snow-shoe traveling in Y. N. P., 194, 195, 196. - Snowy Range, 152. - Soaping Geysers, 165, 343. - Soda Butte, 264. - Cañon, 264. - Creek, 150. - Soda Spring, 221. - Solar eclipse of 1860, 59. - South-west Fur Co., 35. - Spanish traders and name "Yellowstone," 5. - Specimen Ridge, 179, 180, 263. - Spike Geyser, 243. - Splendid Geyser, 230. - Sponge, The, 232. - Spring Creek Cañon, 238. - Spurgin, Captain W. F., builds road for Howard across - Y. N. P., 124, 126. - Stage rides in Y. N. P., 277. - Stanley, E. J., quoted, 322. - Stanton, Captain W. S., makes reconnaissance through Y. N. P., 106. - Steady Geyser, 225. - Steamboat, first to reach mouth of Y. River, 87. - Steamboat Spring, 175, 244. - Steam vents, 175. - Stevenson, James, ascends Grand Teton, 222, 309. - biographical sketch, 307-308. - builds first boat on Y. Lake, 337. - Stewart, J., member of Helena party of tourists, 112. - Stickney, Benj., member of Washburn party, 76. - descends to bottom of Grand Cañon, 80. - Stinking Cabin Creek, 322. - Stone, Benj., experience of with Nez Percés, 123. - member Helena party of tourists, 112. - Stone, Mrs. H. H., first white woman to visit Park, 340. - Streams of Y. N. P., fish in, 186. - Strong, Gen. W. E., accompanies Secretary Belknap to Y. N. P., 105. - Stuart, James, 65, 70. - Sturgis, General S. D., attacks Nez Percés, 124. - fails to intercept Nez Percés, 124. - Sublette Lake, early name for Y. Lake, 335. - Sublette, William, fur trader, 36. - Subterranean heat, origin of, 158. - Sulphur Mountain, 249. - Spring, 250. - Superintendents of the Park, duties of, 206, 207. - list of, 359. - Swan Lake, 217. - Flats, 154. - - - Talmage, T. DeWitt, quoted, 253, 257. - Temperatures in Y. N. P., 198. - Terraces, formation of, 173, 212. - Terrace Mountain, 215. - Tertiary Period in Y. N. P., 156. - Teton, Grand. See _Grand Teton_. - Teton Pass, 24. - Teton Range, 152, 222, 243. - Therapeutic value of springs in Y. N. P., 199. - Thermal activity in Y. N. P. not diminishing, 160. - Thermal springs, geographical distribution of, 160. - Third Cañon of the Y., 266. - Thompson, David, and name "Yellowstone," 1, 2. - and source of Y. River, 2. - Thumb of Y. Lake, 241, 335. - Topping, E. S., quoted, 313, 315. - Tour of the Y. N. P., best season for, 210. - Tourists and wild animals in Y. N. P., 184. - Tourists' season in Y. N. P., 193. - Tower Falls, 261. - discovered, 78. - Transportation in the Y. N. P., 204. - Trappers ignorant of geyser regions, 99. - Treaties with Indians, 18, 19. - Tree inscribed with date 1819, 40, 251. - Trees of Y. N. P., 187. - Trout Creek, serpentine course of, 249. - Trout in Y. Lake, 186. - Trumbull, Walter, member Washburn Party, 76. - publications by, 83, 84. - sketches by, 169. - _Tukuarika_, native name for Sheepeater Indians, 8, 10. - Turban Geyser, 230. - Turquoise Spring, 227. - Twin Buttes, 225. - Twin Lakes, 219. - Two-Gwo-Tee Pass, 105. - Two-Ocean Pass, 59, 105, 245, 333. - crossed by fish, 186. - discovered, 104, 245. - Tyndall, John, quoted, 174. - - - Union Geyser, 167, 239. - Pass, 23, 59. - U. S. Geological Survey, explorations under, 103. - measurements by, of height of Falls, 326. - names by, in Y. N. P., 286. - Unknown visitor to geyser basins in 1833, 14, 44. - Upper Fall of the Y., 251. - Upper Geyser Basin, 228. - discovery of, 82. - visited in 1833, 44. - - - Valleys of the Y. N. P., 153. - Vandalism in the Y. N. P., 207. - Verendrye, Chevalier de la, explorations of, 4. - Vest, Senator G. C., connection of with Y. N. P., 281. - member Presidential party, 1883, 107. - quoted, 282. - Virginia Cascade, 220. - Visitors to Y. N. P. in 1883, 107. - Vixen Geyser, 220. - Volcanic rocks in Y. N. P., 157. - - - War of Rebellion, 63. - War with Mexico, 100. - Washburn Expedition of 1870, history of, 75-84. - organization of, 75-7. - results of, 84. - revives Park idea, 90. - Washburn, General H. D., biographical sketch, 311. - chief of Washburn Expedition, 75. - "notes" of, upon Washburn Expedition, 83. - quoted, 325. - Washburn, Mt., 152, 260. - an extinct volcano, 156. - Washburn Range, 17,152. - original name of, 152. - on Colter's map, 26. - _Wasp_, The, 48. - Watchmen at Park hotels in winter, 194. - Water-falls of Y. N. P., 151, 324. - Wear, D. W., Fifth Superintendent Y. N. P., 137. - Weed, W. H., quoted, 264. - Weikert, A. J., member of Helena tourist party, 111. - experience of, with Nez Percés, 123-6. - We-Saw, Shoshone Indian, 15. - West Shore geyser basin, 242. - White Bird, Nez Percé chief, 113. - White Elephant, 214. - Wilkie, Leslie, member Helena tourist party, 112. - Willow Park, 154, 217. - Wingate, G. W., quoted, 190. - Winter journeys through the Y. N. P., 108. - Winter in the Y. N. P., 197, 198. - Witch Creek, 243. - Wyeth, Nathaniel J., 37. - Wyoming, admission of, to Union, 282,347. - Wyoming Territory attempts to protect Park, 134, 135. - - - "Yancey's," 263. - "Yellowstone," origin of name, 1-7. - Spanish translation of, 5, note. - _Yellowstone_, first steamboat at mouth of Y. River, 87. - Yellowstone, discovery of the, 72. - early knowledge of the, 40, 50, 60. - fossil forests of the, 177-180, 263. - gold-seekers on the, 101. - Grand Cañon of, colors in, 6, 254. - Third Cañon of the, 266. - Upper, prospecting expeditions on the, 66-71. - Upper, why so long unknown, 99, 101. - Yellowstone Falls, compared with Niagara, 251, 254. - Lower, 251, 254. - measurement of heights, 80, 325-6. - Upper, 261. - Yellowstone Lake, 151, 240, 241. - bays of, 333. - boat ride on, 243. - capes of, 336. - compared with other lakes, 241. - discovered, 24, 27, 80. - first boat on, 337. - form of, 240. - islands of, 335. - monument on shore of, 248. - names of, 334. - navigation of, 203. - overhead sounds near, 246. - reservoir possibilities of, 190. - thumb, of, 241. - trout of, 186. - Yellowstone National Park, administration of, 206. - administrative history of, 127-148. - altitudes in, 154. - area of, 148. - Assistant Superintendents of, 135. - atmosphere of, 210. - autumn foliage of, 192. - basaltic lava flows in, 157. - birds, 185. - boundaries of, 148, 278-280. - buffalo of, 143, 184. - buildings of, in 1880, 132. - calcareous springs of, 173. - camping in, 205. - climate of, 189, 198. - Congressional Reports on, 141. - cost of visiting, 274. - Cretaceous Period in, 156. - danger to future existence of, 281. - drainage areas of, 149. - economic importance of, 190. - electric railways in, 204, 276-280. - elk in, 280. - exploration of, 103, 108. - fauna of, 181. - fishes of, 185-6. - flora of, 187. - flow of water from, 190. - flowers of, 190. - forests of, 187, 188. - fossil forests of, 177-180, 263. - friends of, 281. - funds for, 128. - game in, 134, 181-4, 207. - geographical names in, 108, 285-6. - geology of, 156. - Glacial Epoch in, 158. - healthfulness of, 199. - hostility to, vi, 267, 269. - hotel system of, 204. - hot springs of, 172-5. - Indian knowledge of. See "_Indian_." - lakes of the, 151. - laws for, 127. - leases in, 141, 207. - mineral springs of, 199. - mountain systems of, 151-2. - nature of country in, 16, 17. - Nez Percé incursion into, 117, 123, 215. - petrifactions in, 56, 179. - plateaus of, 153. - private interests and, 280. - Protective Act, 110, 141. - public business in, 139. - railroads and. See _Railroads_. - rhyolitic rocks in, 157. - road system of, 201. - rules and regulations for, 354. - scenery of, 155, 197, 209, 260. - schemes to destroy, 268. - season for tour of, 210. - seasons of, 199. - snow in, 193. - snow-shoe traveling in, 194-6. - source of great rivers near, 188. - stage rides through the, 277. - Superintendents of, 206-7, 359. - Tertiary Period in, 156. - thermal springs of, 161. - tour of, 210, _et seq._ - tourist transportation in, 204. - trees of, 187. - valleys of, 153. - vandalism in, 207. - visitors to, in 1883, 107. - volcanic rocks in, 157. - water falls of, 324. - winter in, 193, 197, 198. - winter journeys through, 108. - Yellowstone Park Association, 140. - Yellowstone Park Improvement Company, 132, 139, 140. - Yellowstone River, 149, 250, 256. - bridge over, 203. - color of banks, 5, 6. - flow of, 150. - fords, 26, 249, 261. - Great Bend of, 6, 43. - junction of, with Gardiner, 211. - navigation of, 203. - source of, 2, 188. - Yosemite Wonderland, 90, 94, 97, 253. - Young Hopeful, 225. - Yount Peak, source of the Y. River, 2, 149. - - - _Zillah, The_, tourist boat on Y. Lake, 336. - - - - - * * * * * - - - -Transcriber's Notes - - - Small captioned text was not converted to ALL CAPS. - The images were moved so that they would not split paragraphs. - - - - - - - -End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of The Yellowstone National Park, by -Hiram Martin Chittenden - -*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK *** - -***** This file should be named 42112-8.txt or 42112-8.zip ***** -This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: - http://www.gutenberg.org/4/2/1/1/42112/ - -Produced by Greg Bergquist, Tom Cosmas and the Online -Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This -file was produced from images generously made available -by The Internet Archive/American Libraries.) - - -Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions -will be renamed. - -Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no -one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation -(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without -permission and without paying copyright royalties. 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