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diff --git a/42112-0.txt b/42112-0.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..3129a34 --- /dev/null +++ b/42112-0.txt @@ -0,0 +1,13131 @@ +*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 42112 *** + +Transcriber's Notes + + Text emphasis is denoted as _Text_ for italic and =Text= for bold. + Whole and fractional parts are shown as 4-2/3. + + + * * * * * + + + + +[Illustration: Grand Falls of the Yellowstone and Old Faithful +Geyser.] + + THE + Yellowstone National Park + HISTORICAL AND DESCRIPTIVE + + Illustrated with Maps, Views and Portraits + + + BY + + + Hiram Martin Chittenden + Captain, Corps of Engineers, United States Army + + + [Illustration] + + + CINCINNATI + THE ROBERT CLARKE COMPANY + 1895 + + + + + Copyright, 1895, + + By Hiram Martin Chittenden. + + Dedication. + + TO THE MEMORIES OF + + John Colter + + AND + + James Bridger, + + PIONEERS IN THE WONDERLAND + OF THE + Upper Yellowstone. + + + + +PREFACE. + + +Twenty-five years ago, this date, a company of gentlemen were encamped +at the Forks of the Madison River in what is now the Yellowstone +National Park. They had just finished the first complete tour of +exploration ever made of that region. Fully realizing the importance +of all they had seen, they asked what ought to be done to preserve so +unique an assemblage of wonders to the uses for which Nature had +evidently designed them. It required no argument to show that +government protection alone was equal to the task, and it was agreed +that a movement to secure such protection should be inaugurated at +once. So rapidly did events develop along the line of this idea, that +within the next eighteen months the "Act of Dedication" had become a +law, and the Yellowstone National Park took its place in our country's +history. + +The wide-spread interest which the discovery of this region created +among civilized peoples has in no degree diminished with the lapse of +time. In this country particularly the Park to-day stands on a firmer +basis than ever before. The events of the past two years, in matters +of legislation and administration, have increased many fold the +assurances of its continued preservation, and have shown that even the +petty local hostility, which has now and then menaced its existence, +is yielding to a wiser spirit of patriotism. + +The time therefore seems opportune, in passing so important an epoch +in the history of the Park, and while many of the actors in its +earlier scenes are still among us, to collect the essential facts, +historical and descriptive, relating to this region, and to place them +in form for permanent preservation. The present literature of the +Park, although broad in scope and exhaustive in detail, is +unfortunately widely scattered, somewhat difficult of access, and in +matters of early history, notably deficient. To supply a work which +shall form a complete and connected treatment of the subject, is the +purpose of the present volume. + +It deals first and principally with the history of the Upper +Yellowstone from the days of Lewis and Clark to the present time. The +main text is supplemented by a considerable amount of appendical +matter, the most important features of which are a complete list of +the geographical names of the Park, with their origin and +signification; a few biographical sketches of the early explorers; and +a bibliography of the literature pertaining to this region. + +The descriptive portion of the work contains a succinct, though +comprehensive, treatment of the various scientific and popular +features of the Park. While it is sufficient for all the requirements +of ordinary information, it purposely refrains from a minute +discussion of those details which have been, or are now being, +exhaustively treated by the scientific departments of the government. + +In describing a region whose fame rests upon its natural wonders, the +assistance of the illustrative art has naturally been resorted to. The +various accompanying maps have all been prepared especially for this +work and are intended to set forth not only present geography but +historical features as well. The folded map embodies every thing to +date from the latest geographical surveys. It will bear careful study, +and this has been greatly simplified by a system of marginal +references to be used with the list of names in Appendix A. + +The illustrations cover every variety of subject in the Park and +represent the best results of photographic work in that region. They +are mostly from the studio of Mr. F. J. Haynes, of St. Paul, the +well-known Park photographer, who has done so much by his art to +disseminate a knowledge of the wonders of the Yellowstone. A +considerable number are from views taken during the Hayden surveys by +Mr. William H. Jackson, now of Denver, Colorado. A few excellent +subjects are from the amateur work of Captain C. M. Gandy, Assistant +Surgeon, U. S. A., who was stationed for some years on duty in the +Park. The portraits are restricted to the few early explorers who +visited the Upper Yellowstone prior to the creation of the Park. + +To any one who is familiar with the recent history of the Park, a work +like the present would seem incomplete without some reference to those +influences which endanger its future existence. A brief discussion of +this subject is accordingly presented, which, without considering +particular schemes, exposes the dangerous tendencies underlying them +all. + +In the course of a somewhat extended correspondence connected with the +preparation of this work, the author has become indebted for much +information that could not be found in the existing literature of the +Park. He desires in this place to return his sincere acknowledgments +to all who have assisted him, and to refer in a special manner. + +To the Hon. N. P. Langford, of St. Paul, whose long acquaintance with +the Upper Yellowstone country has made him an authority upon its +history. + +To Dr. Elliott Coues, of Washington, D. C., who has contributed, +besides much general assistance, the essential facts relating to the +name "Yellowstone." + +To Captain George S. Anderson, 6th U. S. Cavalry, Superintendent of +the Park, for the use of his extensive collection of Park literature. + +To Prof. Arnold Hague, and others, of the U. S. Geological Survey, for +many important favors. + +To Prof. J. D. Butler, of Madison, Wis., for biographical data +relating to James Bridger. + +To Dr. R. Ellsworth Call, of Cincinnati, Ohio, for valuable assistance +pertaining to the entire work. + +To the Hon. D. M. Browning, Commissioner of Indian Affairs, for +important data relating to the Indian tribes in the vicinity of the +Yellowstone Park. + +To the officers of the War and Interior Departments, the U. S. Fish +Commission, the U. S. Bureau of Ethnology, and of the U. S. Coast and +Geodetic Survey, for public documents and other information of great +value. + +To R. T. Durrett, LL.D., of Louisville, Ky.; Mr. J. G. Morrison, of +the Library of Congress, Washington, D. C.; Mr. J. D. Losecamp, of +Billings, Mont.; Mr. George Bird Grinnell, of _Forest and Stream_, New +York City; Major James F. Gregory, Corps of Engineers, U. S. A.; +Lieutenant Wm. H. Bean, Second Cavalry, U. S. A.; Hon. David E. +Folsom, White Sulphur Springs, Mont.; Washington Mathews, Major and +Surgeon, U. S. A.; Dr. A. C. Peale, of Philadelphia, Pa.; William +Hallett Phillips, of Washington, D. C.; Dr. Lyman B. Sperry, of +Bellevue, O.; Mrs. Matilda Cope Stevenson, of Washington, D. C.; Mrs. +Sirena J. Washburn, of Greencastle, Ind.; Miss Isabel Jelke, of +Cincinnati, O.; Mr. O. B. Wheeler, of St. Louis, Mo.; Mr. O. D. +Wheeler, of St. Paul, Minn.; Mr. J. H. Baronett, of Livingston, Mont.; +Mr. W. T. Hamilton, of Columbus, Mont.; Mr. Richard Leigh, of Wilford, +Idaho; Mr. Edwin L. Berthoud, of Golden, Colo.; and Miss Laura S. +Brown, of Columbus, O. H. M. C. + +Columbus, Ohio, _September 19, 1895_. + + + + +CONTENTS. + + + PART I.--HISTORICAL. + + Chapter I.--"Yellowstone" 1 + + Chapter II.--Indian Occupancy of the Upper Yellowstone 8 + + Chapter III.--John Colter 20 + + Chapter IV.--The Trader and Trapper 32 + + Chapter V.--Early knowledge of the Yellowstone 40 + + Chapter VI.--James Bridger 51 + + Chapter VII.--Raynolds Expedition 58 + + Chapter VIII.--Gold in Montana 65 + + Chapter IX.--Discovery 72 + + Chapter X.--The National Park Idea--Its Origin and Realization 87 + + Chapter XI.--Why So Long Unknown 98 + + Chapter XII.--Later Explorations 103 + + Chapter XIII.--An Indian Campaign through the National + Park 111 + + Chapter XIV.--Administrative History of the Park 127 + + Chapter XV.--The National Park Protective Act 142 + + + PART II.--DESCRIPTIVE. + + Chapter I.--Boundaries and Topography 148 + + Chapter II.--Geology of the Park 156 + + Chapter III.--Geysers 162 + + Chapter IV.--Hot Springs 172 + + Chapter V.--Fossil Forests of the Yellowstone 175 + + Chapter VI.--Fauna of the Yellowstone 181 + + Chapter VII.--Flora of the Yellowstone 187 + + Chapter VIII.--The Park as a Health Resort 193 + + Chapter IX.--The Park in Winter 198 + + Chapter X.--Roads, Hotels, and Transportation 201 + + Chapter XI.--Administration of the Park 206 + + Chapter XII.--A Tour of the Park--Preliminary 209 + + Chapter XIII.--A Tour of the Park--North Boundary to + Mammoth Hot Springs 211 + + Chapter XIV.--A Tour of the Park--Mammoth Hot Springs + to Norris Geyser Basin 217 + + Chapter XV.--A Tour of the Park--Norris Geyser Basin to + Lower Geyser Basin 221 + + Chapter XVI.--A Tour of the Park--Lower Geyser Basin + to Upper Geyser Basin 228 + + Chapter XVII.--A Tour of the Park--Upper Geyser Basin + to Yellowstone Lake 237 + + Chapter XVIII.--A Tour of the Park--Yellowstone Lake to + the Grand Cañon of the Yellowstone 248 + + Chapter XIX.--A Tour of the Park--Grand Cañon of the + Yellowstone to Junction Valley 260 + + + PART III.--THE FUTURE. + + Chapter I.--Hostility to the Park 267 + + Chapter II.--Railroad Encroachment and Change of Boundary 270 + + Chapter III.--Conclusion 281 + + +APPENDIX A. + + Geographical Names in the Yellowstone National Park 285 + + I.--Introductory 285 + + II.--Mountain Peaks 289 + + III.--Streams 313 + + IV.--Water-falls 324 + + V.--Lakes 327 + + VI.--Miscellaneous Features 338 + + VII.--Geysers 342 + + +APPENDIX B. + + Legislation and Regulations now in Force affecting the + Yellowstone National Park 345 + + +APPENDIX C. + + Appropriations on Account of the Yellowstone National + Park 357 + + +APPENDIX D. + + List of Superintendents of the Yellowstone National + Park 359 + + +APPENDIX E. + + Bibliography of the Yellowstone National Park 361 + + + + +The Yellowstone National Park. + + + + +PART I.--Historical. + +CHAPTER I. + +"YELLOWSTONE." + + +Lewis and Clark passed the first winter of their famous +trans-continental expedition among the Mandan Indians, on the Missouri +River, sixty-six miles above the present capital of North Dakota. When +about to resume their journey in the spring of 1805, they sent back to +President Jefferson a report of progress and a map of the western +country based upon information derived from the Indians. In this +report and upon this map appear for the first time, in any official +document, the words "Yellow Stone" as the name of the principal +tributary of the Missouri. + +It seems, however, that Lewis and Clark were not the first actually to +use the name. David Thompson, the celebrated explorer and geographer, +prominently identified with the British fur trade in the North-west, +was among the Mandan Indians on the Missouri River from December 29, +1797, to January 10, 1798. While there he secured data, mostly from +the natives, from which he estimated the latitude and longitude of +the source of the Yellowstone River. In his original manuscript +journal and field note-books, containing the record of his +determinations, the words "Yellow Stone" appear precisely as used by +Lewis and Clark in 1805. This is, perhaps, the first use of the name +in its Anglicised form, and it is certainly the first attempt to +determine accurately the geographical location of the source of the +stream.[A] + +[A] Thompson's estimate: + +Latitude, 43° 39' 45" north. Longitude, 109° 43' 17" west. + +Yount Peak, source of the Yellowstone (Hayden): + +Latitude, 43° 57' north. Longitude, 109° 52' west. + +Thompson's error: + +In latitude, 17' 15". In longitude, 8' 43", or about 21 miles. + + +Neither Thompson nor Lewis and Clark were originators of the name. +They gave us only the English translation of a name already long in +use. "This river," say Lewis and Clark, in their journal for the day +of their arrival at the mouth of the now noted stream, "had been known +to the French as the _Roche Jaune_, or, as we have called it, the +Yellow Stone." The French name was, in fact, already firmly +established among the traders and trappers of the North-west Fur +Company, when Lewis and Clark met them among the Mandans. Even by the +members of the expedition it seems to have been more generally used +than the new English form; and the spellings, "Rejone," "Rejhone," +"Rochejone," "Rochejohn," and "Rochejhone," are among their various +attempts to render orthographically the French pronunciation. + +Probably the name would have been adopted unchanged, as so many other +French names in our geography have been, except for the recent cession +of Louisiana to the United States. The policy which led the government +promptly to explore, and take formal possession of, its extensive +acquisition, led it also, as part of the process of rapid +Americanization, to give English names to all of the more prominent +geographical features. In the case of the name here under +consideration, this was no easy matter. The French form had already +obtained wide currency, and it was reluctantly set aside for its less +familiar translation. As late as 1817, it still appeared in newly +English-printed books,[B] while among the traders and trappers of the +mountains, it survived to a much later period. + +[B] Bradbury's "Travels in the Interior of America." See Appendix E. + +By whom the name _Roche Jaune_, or its equivalent form _Pierre Jaune_, +was first used, it would be extremely interesting to know; but it is +impossible to determine at this late day. Like their successor, +"Yellow Stone," these names were not originals, but only translations. +The Indian tribes along the Yellowstone and upper Missouri rivers had +names for the tributary stream signifying "yellow rock,"[C] and the +French had doubtless adopted them long before any of their number saw +the stream itself. + +[C] The name "Elk River" was also used among the Crow Indians. + +The first explorations of the country comprised within the present +limits of the State of Montana are matters of great historic +uncertainty. By one account it appears that, between the years 1738 +and 1753, Pierre Gaultier de Varennes, the Sieur de la Verendrye, and +his sons, particularly the Chevalier de la Verendrye, conducted +parties of explorers westward, from Lake Superior to the Assinnaboine +River, thence south to the Mandan country, and thence to the very +sources of the Missouri. Even the date, January 12, 1743, is given for +their first ascent of the Rocky Mountains. But such is the dearth of +satisfactory evidence relating to these explorations, that positive +inferences concerning them are impossible. The most that can be said +is, that if De la Verendrye visited these regions, as is generally +believed, to him doubtless belongs the honor of having adopted from +original sources the name of the Yellowstone River. + +The goal of De la Verendrye's explorations was the Pacific Ocean; but +the French and Indian war which robbed France of her dominion in +America, prevented his ever reaching it. Following him, at the +distance of nearly half a century, came the traders and trappers of +the North-west Fur Company. As already noted, they were among the +Mandans as early as 1797, and the name _Roche Jaune_ was in common use +among them in 1804. They appear to have been wholly ignorant of the +work of De la Verendrye, and it is quite certain that, prior to 1805, +none of them had reached the Yellowstone River. Lewis and Clark +particularly record the fact, while yet some distance below the +junction of this river with the Missouri, that they had already passed +the utmost limit of previous adventure by white men. Whatever, +therefore, was at this time known of the Yellowstone could have come +to these traders only from Indian sources.[D] + +[D] An interesting reference to the name "Yellowstone," in an entirely +different quarter, occurs on Pike's map of the "Internal Provinces of +Spain," published in 1810. It is a corrupt Spanish translation in the +form of "_Rio de Piedro Amaretto del Missouri_," (intended of course +to be _Rio de la Piedra Amarilla del Missouri_) river of the Yellow +Stone of the Missouri. No clue has been discovered of the source from +which Pike received this name; but the fact of its existence need +occasion no surprise. The Spanish had long traded as far north as the +Shoshone country, and had mingled with the French traders along the +lower Missouri. Lewis and Clark found articles of their manufacture +among the Shoshones in 1805. There is also limited evidence of early +intercourse between them and the Crow nation. That the name of so +important a stream as the Yellowstone should have become known to +these traders is therefore not at all remarkable. There is, however, +no reason to suppose that the Spanish translation antedates the +French. It certainly plays no part in the descent of the name from the +original to the English form, and it is of interest in this connection +mainly as showing that, even at this early day, the name had found its +way to the provinces of the south. + +We thus find that the name, which has now become so celebrated, +descends to us, through two translations, from those native races +whose immemorial dwelling-place had been along the stream which it +describes. What it was that led them to use the name is easily +discoverable. The Yellowstone River is pre-eminently a river with +banks of yellow rock. Along its lower course "the flood plain is +bordered by high bluffs of yellow sandstone." Near the mouth of the +Bighorn River stands the noted landmark, Pompey's Pillar, "a high +isolated rock" of the same material. Still further up, beyond the +mouth of Clark's fork, is an extensive ridge of yellow rock, the +"sheer, vertical sides" of which, according to one writer, "gleam in +the sunlight like massive gold." All along the lower river, in fact, +from its mouth to the Great Bend at Livingston, this characteristic +is more or less strikingly present. + +Whether it forms a sufficiently prominent feature of the landscape to +justify christening the river from it, may appear to be open to doubt. +At any rate the various descriptions of this valley by early explorers +rarely refer to the same locality as being conspicuous from the +presence of yellow rock. Some mention it in one place, some in +another. Nowhere does it seem to have been so striking as to attract +the attention of all observers. For this reason we shall go further in +search of the true origin of the name, to a locality about which there +can be no doubt, no difference of opinion. + +Seventy-five miles below the ultimate source of the river lies the +Grand Cañon of the Yellowstone, distinguished among the notable cañons +of the globe by the marvelous coloring of its walls. Conspicuous among +its innumerable tints is yellow. Every shade, from the brilliant +plumage of the yellow bird to the rich saffron of the orange, greets +the eye in bewildering profusion. There is indeed other color, +unparalleled in variety and abundance, but the ever-present background +of all is the beautiful fifth color of the spectrum. + +So prominent is this feature that it never fails to attract attention, +and all descriptions of the Cañon abound in references to it. +Lieutenant Doane (1870) notes the "brilliant yellow color" of the +rocks. Captain Barlow and Doctor Hayden (1871) refer, in almost the +same words, to the "yellow, nearly vertical walls." Raymond (1871) +speaks of the "bright yellow of the sulphury clay." Captain Jones +(1873) says that "about and in the Grand Cañon the rocks are nearly +all tinged a brilliant yellow." These early impressions might be +repeated from the writings of every subsequent visitor who has +described the scenery of the Yellowstone. + +That a characteristic which so deeply moves the modern beholder should +have made a profound impression on the mind of the Indian, need hardly +be premised. This region was by no means unknown to him; and from the +remote, although uncertain, period of his first acquaintance with it, +the name of the river has undoubtedly descended. + +Going back, then, to this obscure fountain-head, the original +designation is found to have been + + _Mi tsi a-da-zi_,[E] Rock Yellow River. + +And this, in the French tongue, became + + _Roche Jaune_ and _Pierre Jaune_; + +and in English, + + _Yellow Rock_ and _Yellow Stone_. + +Established usage now writes it + + _Yellowstone_. + +[E] Minnetaree, one of the Siouan family of languages. + + + + +CHAPTER II. + +INDIAN OCCUPANCY OF THE UPPER YELLOWSTONE. + + +It is a singular fact in the history of the Yellowstone National Park +that no knowledge of that country seems to have been derived from the +Indians. The explanation ordinarily advanced is that the Indians had a +superstitious fear of the geyser regions and always avoided them. How +far this theory is supported by the results of modern research is an +interesting inquiry. + +Three great families of Indians, the Siouan, the Algonquian, and the +Shoshonean, originally occupied the country around the sources of the +Yellowstone. Of these three families the following tribes are alone of +interest in this connection: The Crows (_Absaroka_) of the Siouan +family; the Blackfeet (_Siksika_) of the Algonquian family; and the +Bannocks (_Panai'hti_), the Eastern Shoshones, and the Sheepeaters +(_Tukuarika_) of the Shoshonean family. + +The home of the Crows was in the Valley of the Yellowstone below the +mountains where they have dwelt since the white man's earliest +knowledge of them. Their territory extended to the mountains which +bound the Yellowstone Park on the north and east; but they never +occupied or claimed any of the country beyond. Their well-known tribal +characteristics were an insatiable love of horse-stealing and a +wandering and predatory habit which caused them to roam over all the +West from the Black Hills to the Bitter Root Mountains and from the +British Possessions to the Spanish Provinces. They were generally, +although by no means always, friendly to the whites, but enemies of +the neighboring Blackfeet and Shoshones. Physically, they were a +stalwart, handsome race, fine horsemen and daring hunters. They were +every-where encountered by the trapper and prospector who generally +feared them more on account of their thievish habits than for reasons +of personal safety. + +The Blackfeet dwelt in the country drained by the headwaters of the +Missouri. Their territory was roughly defined by the Crow territory on +the east and the Rocky Mountains on the west. Its southern limit was +the range of mountains along the present north-west border of the +Park and it extended thence to the British line. The distinguishing +historic trait of these Indians was their settled hostility to their +neighbors whether white or Indian. They were a tribe of perpetual +fighters, justly characterized as the Ishmaelites of their race. From +the day in 1806, when Captain Lewis slew one of their number, down to +their final subjection by the advancing power of the whites, they +never buried the hatchet. They were the terror of the trapper and +miner, and hundreds of the pioneers perished at their hands. Like the +Crows they were a well-developed race, good horsemen and great rovers, +but, in fight, given to subterfuge and stratagem rather than to open +boldness of action. + +In marked contrast with these warlike and wandering tribes were those +of the great Shoshonean family who occupied the country around the +southern, eastern, and western borders of the Park, including also +that of the Park itself. The Shoshones as a family were an inferior +race. They seem to have been the victims of some great misfortune +which had driven them to precarious methods of subsistence and had +made them the prey of their powerful and merciless neighbors. The +names "Fish-eaters," "Root-diggers," and other opprobrious epithets, +indicate the contempt in which they were commonly held. For the most +part they had no horses, and obtained a livelihood only by the most +abject means. Some of the tribes, however, rose above this degraded +condition, owned horses, hunted buffalo, and met their enemies in open +conflict. Such were the Bannocks and the Eastern Shoshones--tribes +closely connected with the history of the Park, one occupying the +country to the south-west near the Teton Mountains, and the other that +to the south-east in the valley of Wind River. The Shoshones were +generally friendly to the whites, and for this reason they figure less +prominently in the books of early adventure than do the Crows and +Blackfeet whose acts of "sanguinary violence" were a staple article +for the Indian romancer. + +It was an humble branch of the Shoshonean family which alone is known +to have permanently occupied what is now the Yellowstone Park. They +were called _Tukuarika_, or, more commonly, Sheepeaters. They were +found in the Park country at the time of its discovery and had +doubtless long been there. These hermits of the mountains, whom the +French trappers called "_les dignes de pitié_," have engaged the +sympathy or contempt of explorers since our earliest knowledge of +them. Utterly unfit for warlike contention, they seem to have sought +immunity from their dangerous neighbors by dwelling among the +inaccessible fastnesses of the mountains. They were destitute of even +savage comforts. Their food, as their name indicates, was principally +the flesh of the mountain sheep. Their clothing was composed of skins. +They had no horses and were armed only with bows and arrows. They +captured game by driving it into brush inclosures. Their rigorous +existence left its mark on their physical nature. They were feeble in +mind, diminutive in stature, and are always described as a "timid, +harmless race." They may have been longer resident in this region than +is commonly supposed, for there was a tradition among them, apparently +connected with some remote period of geological disturbance, that most +of their race were once destroyed by a terrible convulsion of +nature. + +[Illustration: HISTORICAL CHART OF THE YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK + +_Opp. page 11._] + +Such were the Indian tribes who formerly dwelt within or near the +country now embraced in the Yellowstone National Park. That the +Sheepeaters actually occupied this country, and that wandering bands +from other tribes occasionally visited it, there is abundant and +conclusive proof. Indian trails,[F] though generally indistinct, were +every-where found by the early explorers, mostly on lines since +occupied by the tourist routes. One of these followed the Yellowstone +Valley entirely across the Park from north to south. It divided at +Yellowstone Lake, the principal branch following the east shore, +crossing Two-Ocean-Pass, and intersecting a great trail which +connected the Snake and Wind River Valleys. The other branch passed +along the west shore of the lake and over the divide to the valleys of +Snake River and Jackson Lake. This trail was intersected by an +important one in the vicinity of Conant Creek leading from the Upper +Snake Valley to that of Henry Fork. Other intersecting trails +connected the Yellowstone River trail with the Madison and Firehole +Basins on the west and with the Bighorn Valley on the east. + +[F] See historical chart, opposite. + +The most important Indian trail in the Park, however, was that known +as the Great Bannock Trail. It extended from Henry Lake across the +Gallatin Range to Mammoth Hot Springs, where it was joined by another +coming up the valley of the Gardiner. Thence it led across the +Black-tail Deer plateau to the ford above Tower Falls; and thence up +the Lamar Valley, forking at Soda Butte, and reaching the Bighorn +Valley by way of Clark's Fork and the Stinkingwater River. This +trail was certainly a very ancient and much-traveled one. It had +become a deep furrow in the grassy slopes, and it is still distinctly +visible in places, though unused for a quarter of a century. + +Additional evidence in the same direction may be seen in the +wide-spread distribution of implements peculiar to Indian use. Arrows +and spear heads have been found in considerable numbers. Obsidian +Cliff was an important quarry, and the open country near the outlet of +Yellowstone Lake a favorite camping-ground. Certain implements, such +as pipes, hammers, and stone vessels, indicating the former presence +of a more civilized people, have been found to a limited extent; and +some explorers have thought that a symmetrical mound in the valley of +the Snake River, below the mouth of Hart River, is of artificial +origin. Reference will later be made to the discovery of a rude +granite structure near the top of the Grand Teton, which is +unquestionably of very ancient date. + +Dr. A. C. Peale, prominently connected with the early geological +explorations of this region, states that the Rustic Geyser in the Hart +Lake Geyser Basin is "bordered by logs which are coated with a +crystalline, semi-translucent deposit of geyserite. These logs were +evidently placed around the geyser by either Indians or white men a +number of years ago, as the coating is thick and the logs firmly +attached to the surrounding deposit."[G] + +[G] Page 298, Twelfth Annual Report of Dr. Hayden. See Appendix E. It +is more than probable that this was the work of trappers. + +More recent and perishable proofs of the presence of Indians in the +Park were found by the early explorers in the rude wick-e-ups, brush +inclosures, and similar contrivances of the lonely Sheepeaters; and it +is not improbable that many of the arrow and spear heads were the work +of these Indians. + +The real question of doubt in regard to Indian occupancy of, or visits +to, the Park, is therefore not one of fact, but of degree. The +Sheepeaters certainly dwelt there; but as to other tribes, their +acquaintance with it seems to have been very limited. No word of +information about the geyser regions ever fell from their lips, except +that the surrounding country was known to them as the Burning +Mountains. With one or two exceptions, the old trails were very +indistinct, requiring an experienced eye to distinguish them from game +trails. Their undeveloped condition indicated infrequent use. Old +trappers who have known this region for fifty years say that the +great majority of Indians never saw it. Able Indian guides in the +surrounding country became lost when they entered the Park, and the +Nez Percés were forced to impress a white man as guide when they +crossed the Park in 1877. + +An unknown writer, to whom extended reference will be made in a later +chapter, visited the Upper Geyser Basin in 1832, accompanied by two +Pend d'Oreilles Indians. Neither of these Indians had ever seen or +apparently heard of the geysers, and "were quite appalled" at the +sight of them, believing them to be "supernatural" and the "production +of the Evil Spirit." + +Lieutenant Doane, who commanded the military escort to the Yellowstone +Expedition of 1870, says in his report:[H] + +"Appearances indicated that the basin [of the Yellowstone Lake] had +been almost entirely abandoned by the sons of the forest. A few lodges +of Sheepeaters, a branch remnant of the Snake tribe, wretched beasts +who run from the sight of a white man, or from any other tribe of +Indians, are said to inhabit the fastnesses of the mountains around +the lakes, poorly armed and dismounted, obtaining a precarious +subsistence, and in a defenseless condition. We saw, however, no +recent traces of them. The larger tribes never enter the basin, +restrained by superstitious ideas in connection with the thermal +springs." + +[H] Page 26, "Yellowstone Expedition of 1870." See Appendix E. + +In 1880, Col. P. W. Norris, Second Superintendent of the Park, had a +long interview on the shore of the Yellowstone Lake with We-Saw, "an +old but remarkably intelligent Indian" of the Shoshone tribe, who was +then acting as guide to an exploring party under Governor Hoyt, of +Wyoming, and who had previously passed through the Park with the +expedition of 1873 under Captain W. A. Jones, U. S. A. He had also +been in the Park region on former occasions. Colonel Norris records +the following facts from this Indian's conversation:[I] + +"We-Saw states that he had neither knowledge nor tradition of any +permanent occupants of the Park save the timid Sheepeaters.... He said +that his people (Shoshones) the Bannocks and the Crows, occasionally +visited the Yellowstone Lake and River portions of the Park, but very +seldom the geyser regions, which he declared were '_heap, heap, bad_,' +and never wintered there, as white men sometimes did with horses." + +[I] Page 38, Annual Report of Superintendent of the Park for 1881. + +It seems that even the resident Sheepeaters knew little of the geyser +basins. General Sheridan, who entered the Park from the south in 1882, +makes this record in his report of the expedition:[J] + +"We had with us five Sheep Eating Indians as guides, and, strange to +say, although these Indians had lived for years and years about Mounts +Sheridan and Hancock, and the high mountains south-east of the +Yellowstone Lake, they knew nothing about the Firehole Geyser Basin, +and they exhibited more astonishment and wonder than any of us." + +[J] Page 11, Report on Explorations of Parts of Wyoming, Idaho and +Montana, 1882. See Appendix E. + +Evidence like the foregoing clearly indicates that this country was +_terra incognita_ to the vast body of Indians who dwelt around it, and +again this singular fact presents itself for explanation. Was it, as +is generally supposed, a "superstitious fear" that kept them away? The +incidents just related give some color to such a theory; but if it +were really true we should expect to find well authenticated Indian +traditions of so marvelous a country. Unfortunately history records +none. It is not meant by this to imply that reputed traditions +concerning the Yellowstone are unknown. For instance, it is related +that the Crows always refused to tell the whites of the geysers +because they believed that whoever visited them became endowed with +supernatural powers, and they wished to retain a monopoly of this +knowledge. But traditions of this sort, like most Indian curiosities +now offered for sale, are evidently of spurious origin. Only in the +names "Yellowstone" and "Burning Mountains" do we find any original +evidence that this land of wonders appealed in the least degree to the +native imagination. + +The real explanation of this remarkable ignorance appears to us to +rest on grounds essentially practical. There was nothing to induce the +Indians to visit the Park country. For three-fourths of the year that +country is inaccessible on account of snow. It is covered with dense +forests, which in most places are so filled with fallen timber and +tangled underbrush as to be practically impassable. As a game country +in those early days it could not compare with the lower surrounding +valleys. As a highway of communication between the valleys of the +Missouri, Snake, Yellowstone, and Bighorn Rivers, it was no +thoroughfare. The great routes, except the Bannock trail already +described, lay on the outside. All the conditions, therefore, which +might attract the Indians to this region were wanting. Even those +sentimental influences, such as a love of sublime scenery and a +curiosity to see the strange freaks of nature, evidently had less +weight with them than with their pale-face brethren. + +Summarizing the results of such knowledge, confessedly meager, as +exists upon this subject, it appears: + +(1.) That the country now embraced in the Yellowstone National Park was +occupied, at the time of its discovery, by small bands of Sheepeater +Indians, probably not exceeding in number one hundred and fifty souls. +They dwelt in the neighborhood of the Washburn and Absaroka Ranges, and +among the mountains around the sources of the Snake. They were not +familiar with the geyser regions. + +(2.) Wandering bands from other tribes occasionally visited this +country, but generally along the line of the Yellowstone River or the +Great Bannock Trail. Their knowledge of the geyser regions was extremely +limited, and very few had ever seen or heard of them. It is probable +that the Indians visited this country more frequently in earlier times +than since the advent of the white man. + +(3.) The Indians avoided the region of the Upper Yellowstone from +practical, rather than from sentimental, considerations. + +The legal processes by which the vast territory of these various +tribes passed to the United States, are full of incongruities +resulting from a general ignorance of the country in question. By the +Treaty of Fort Laramie, dated September 17, 1851, between the United +States on the one hand, and the Crows, Blackfeet and other northern +tribes on the other, the Crows were given, as part of their territory, +all that portion of the Park country which lies east of the +Yellowstone River; and the Blackfeet, all that portion lying between +the Yellowstone River and the Continental Divide. This was before any +thing whatever was known of the country so given away. None of the +Shoshone tribes were party to the treaty, and the rights of the +Sheepeaters were utterly ignored. That neither the Blackfeet nor the +Crows had any real claim to these extravagant grants is evidenced by +their prompt relinquishment of them in the first subsequent treaties. +Thus, by treaty of October 17, 1855, the Blackfeet agreed that all of +their portion of the Park country, with much other territory, should +be and remain a common hunting ground for certain designated tribes; +and by treaty of May 17, 1868, the Crows relinquished all of their +territory south of the Montana boundary line. + +That portion of the Park country drained by the Snake River was always +considered Shoshone territory, although apparently never formally +recognized in any public treaty. By an unratified treaty, dated +September 24, 1868, the provisions of which seem to have been the +basis of subsequent arrangements with the Shoshonean tribes, all this +territory and much besides was ceded to the United States, and the +tribes were located upon small reservations. + +It thus appears that at the time the Park was created, March 1, 1872, +all the territory included in its limits had been ceded to the United +States except the hunting ground above referred to, and the narrow +strip of Crow territory east of the Yellowstone where the north +boundary of the Park lies two or three miles north of the Montana +line. The "hunting ground" arrangement was abrogated by statute of +April 15, 1874, and the strip of Crow territory was purchased under an +agreement with the Crows, dated June 12, 1880, and ratified by +Congress, April 11, 1882, thus extinguishing the last remaining Indian +title to any portion of the Yellowstone Park. + + + + +CHAPTER III. + +JOHN COLTER. + + +Lewis and Clark passed the second winter of their expedition at the +mouth of the Columbia River. In the spring and summer of 1806 they +accomplished their return to St. Louis. Upon their arrival at the site +of their former winter quarters among the Mandans, an incident +occurred which forms the initial point in the history of the +Yellowstone National Park. It is thus recorded in the journal of the +expedition under date of August 14 and 15, 1806:[K] + +"In the evening we were applied to by one of our men, Colter, who was +desirous of joining the two trappers who had accompanied us, and who +now proposed an expedition up the river, in which they were to find +traps and give him a share of the profits. The offer was a very +advantageous one, and, as he had always performed his duty, and his +services might be dispensed with, we agreed that he might go provided +none of the rest would ask or expect a similar indulgence. To this +they cheerfully answered that they wished Colter every success and +would not apply for liberty to separate before we reached St. Louis. +We therefore supplied him, as did his comrades also, with powder, +lead, and a variety of articles which might be useful to him, and he +left us the next day." + +[K] Pages 1181-2, Coues' "Lewis and Clark." See Appendix E. + +To our explorers, just returning from a two years' sojourn in the +wilderness, Colter's decision seemed too remarkable to be passed over +in silence. The journal continues: + +"The example of this man shows us how easily men may be weaned from +the habits of civilized life to the ruder but scarcely less +fascinating manners of the woods. This hunter has now been absent for +many years from the frontiers, and might naturally be presumed to have +some anxiety, or some curiosity at least, to return to his friends and +his country; yet just at the moment when he is approaching the +frontiers, he is tempted by a hunting scheme to give up those +delightful prospects, and go back without the least reluctance to the +solitude of the woods." + +Colter seems to have stood well in the esteem of his officers. Besides +the fair character given him in his discharge, the record of the +expedition shows that he was frequently selected when one or two men +were required for important special duty. That he had a good eye for +topography may be inferred from the fact that Captain Clark, several +years after the expedition was over, placed upon his map certain +important information on the strength of Colter's statements, who +alone had traversed the region in question. In another instance, when +Bradbury, the English naturalist, was about to leave St. Louis to join +the Astorians in the spring of 1811, Clark referred him to Colter, who +had returned from the mountains, as a person who could conduct him to +a certain natural curiosity on the Missouri some distance above St. +Charles. Colter had not seen the place for six years. In the _Missouri +Gazette_, for April 18, 1811, he is referred to as a "celebrated +hunter and woodsman." These glimpses of his record, and a remarkable +incident to be related further on, clearly indicate that he was a man +of superior mettle to that of the average hunter and trapper. + +Colter's whereabouts during the three years following his discharge +are difficult to fix upon. It may, however, be set down as certain +that he and his companions ascended the Yellowstone River, not the +Missouri. Captain Clark's return journey down the first-mentioned +stream had made known to them that it was better beaver country than +the Missouri, and Colter's subsequent wanderings clearly indicate that +his base of operations was in the valley of the Yellowstone near the +mouth of the Bighorn, Pryor's Fork, or other tributary stream. + +In the summer of 1807, he made an expedition, apparently alone, +although probably in company with Indians, which has given him title +to a place in the history of the Yellowstone Park, and which was +destined in later years to assume an importance little enough +suspected by him at the time. His route appears upon Lewis and Clark's +map of 1814, and is there called "Colter's route in 1807." There is no +note or explanation, and we are left to retrace, on the basis of a +dotted line, a few names, and a date, one of those singular individual +wanderings through the wilderness which now and then find a permanent +place in history. + +The "route," as traced on the map, starts from a point on Pryor's +Fork, the first considerable tributary of the Yellowstone above the +mouth of the Bighorn. Colter's intention seems to have been to skirt +the eastern base of the Absaroka Range until he should reach an +accessible pass across the mountains of which the Indians had +probably told him; then to cross over to the headwaters of Pacific or +gulf-flowing streams; and then to return by way of the Upper +Yellowstone. + +[Illustration: /* _Opp. page 22._ */ + +Colter's Route in 1807.] + +Accordingly, after he had passed through Pryor's Gap, he took a +south-westerly direction as far as Clark's Fork, which stream he +ascended for some distance, and then crossed over to the +Stinkingwater. Here he discovered a large boiling spring, strongly +impregnated with tar and sulphur, the odor of which, perceptible for a +great distance around, has given the stream its "unhappy name." + +From this point Colter continued along the eastern flank of the +Absaroka Range, fording the several tributaries of the Bighorn River +which flow down from that range, and finally came to the upper course +of the main stream now known as Wind River. He ascended this stream to +its source, crossing the divide in the vicinity of Lincoln or Union +Pass, and found himself upon the Pacific slope. The map clearly shows +that at this point he had reached what the Indians called the "summit +of the world" near by the sources of all great streams of the west. +That he discovered one of the easy passes between Wind River and the +Pacific slope, is evident from the reference in the _Missouri Gazette_ +already alluded to and here reproduced for the first time. It is from +the pen of a Mr. H. M. Brackenridge, a contemporary writer of note on +topics of western adventure. It reads: + +"At the head of the Gallatin Fork, and of the Grosse Corne of the +Yellowstone [the Bighorn River], from discoveries since the voyage of +Lewis and Clark, it is found less difficult to cross than the +Allegheny Mountains. Coulter, a celebrated hunter and woodsman, +informed me that a loaded wagon would find no obstruction in passing." + +The "discoveries" are of course those of Colter, for no other white +man at this time had been in those parts. + +From the summit of the mountains he descended to the westward; crossed +the Snake River and Teton Pass to Pierre's Hole, and then turned +north, recrossing the Teton Range by the Indian trail in the valley of +what is now Conant Creek, just north of Jackson Lake.[L] Thence he +continued his course until he reached Yellowstone Lake,[L] at some +point along its south-western shore. He passed around the west shore +to the northernmost point of the Thumb, and then resumed his northerly +course over the hills arriving at the Yellowstone River in the valley +of Alum Creek. He followed the left bank of the river to the ford just +above Tower Falls, where the great Bannock Trail used to cross, and +then followed this trail to its junction with his outward route on +Clark's Fork. From this point he re-crossed to the Stinkingwater, +possibly in order to re-visit the strange phenomena there, but more +probably to explore new trapping territory on his way back. He +descended the Stinkingwater until about south of Pryor's Gap, when he +turned north and shortly after arrived at his starting point. + +[L] For the names given by Captain Clark to these bodies of water, see +Appendix A, "Jackson Lake" and "Yellowstone Lake." + +The direction of Colter's progress, as here indicated, and the +identification of certain geographical features noted by him, differ +somewhat from the ordinary interpretation of that adventure. But, +while it would be absurd to dogmatize upon so uncertain a subject, it +is believed that the theory adopted is fairly well supported by the +facts as now known. It must in the first place be assumed that Colter +exercised ordinary common sense upon this journey and availed himself +of all information that could facilitate his progress. It is probable +that he was under the guidance of Indians who knew the country; but if +not, he frequently stopped, like any traveler in an unknown region, to +inquire his way. He sought the established trails, low mountain +passes, and well-known fords, and did not, as the map suggests, take a +direction that would carry him through the very roughest and most +impassable mountain country on the continent. It is necessary to +orient his map so as to make both his outgoing and return routes +extend nearly due north and south, instead of north-east and +south-west, in order to reconcile his geography at all with the modern +maps. With these precautions some of the difficulty of the situation +disappears. + +Colter, it is therefore assumed, followed the great trail along the +Absarokas to the Wind River Valley, and crossed the divide by one of +the easy passes at its head. His two crossings of the Teton range were +along established trails. He evidently lost his bearings somewhat in +the vicinity of the Yellowstone Lake, but as soon as he arrived at the +river below the lake he kept along the trail until he reached the +important crossing at Tower Falls. If he was in company with Indians +who had ever been through that country before, he learned that it +would be no advantage to cross at Mud Geyser, inasmuch as he would +strike the great Bannock Trail at the next ford below. Moreover, the +distance below the lake to the point where Colter touched the +Yellowstone is clearly greater than that to the Mud Geyser Ford. The +bend in the river at the Great Falls, and the close proximity of the +Washburn Range to the river, are distinctly indicated. The locality +noted on the map as "Hot Springs Brimstone" is evidently not that near +the Mud Geyser, as generally assumed, but instead, that of the now +world-renowned Mammoth Hot Springs. As will be seen from the map, it +is nearer the Gallatin River than it is to the Yellowstone _where +Colter crossed_. If Colter visited the Springs from Tower Falls, as is +not unlikely, a clue is supplied to the otherwise perplexing reference +to the Gallatin River in the above extract from the _Missouri +Gazette_, for it would thus appear that he was near the sources of +both the Grosse Corne and of the Gallatin. + +The essential difficulties in the way of this theory (and they exist +with any possible theory that can be advanced) are the following: (1.) +There is no stream on the map that can stand for the Snake River +either above or below Jackson Lake, although Colter must have crossed +it in each place. "Colter's River" comes nearest the first location, +and may possibly be intended to represent that stream; but Clark's +evident purpose to drain Jackson Lake into the Bighorn River doubtless +led to a distortion of the map in this locality. (2.) The erroneous +shape given to the Yellowstone Lake will be readily understood by any +one who has visited its western shore. The jutting promontories to +the eastward entirely conceal from view the great body of the lake and +give it a form not unlike that upon Clark's map. (3.) The absence of +the Great Falls from the map is not easily accounted for, although the +location and trend of the Grand Cañon are shown with remarkable +accuracy. (4.) The absence of the many hot springs districts, through +which Colter passed, particularly that at the west end of the +Yellowstone Lake, may be explained by the same spirit of incredulity +which led to the rejection of all similar accounts for a period of +more than sixty years. It is probable that Clark was not willing to +recognize Colter's statements on this subject further than to note on +his map the location of the most wonderful of the hot springs groups +mentioned by him. + +The direction in which Colter traveled is a matter of no essential +importance, and that here adopted is based solely upon the +consideration that the doubling of the trail upon itself between +Clark's Fork and the Stinkingwater River, and the erratic course of +the route around Yellowstone Lake, can not be well accounted for on +the contrary hypothesis.[M] + +[M] In adopting, as Colter's point of crossing the Yellowstone, the +ford at Tower Creek, the author has followed the Hon. N. P. Langford, +in his reprint of Folsom's "Valley of the Upper Yellowstone." (See +Appendix E.) All other writers who have touched upon the subject have +assumed the ford to be that near the Mud Geyser. + +Such, in the main, is "Colter's route in 1807." That he was the +discoverer of Yellowstone Lake, and the foremost herald of the strange +phenomena of that region, may be accepted as beyond question. He did +not, as is generally supposed, see the Firehole Geyser Basins. But he +saw too much for his reputation as a man of veracity. No author or +map-maker would jeopardize the success of his work by incorporating in +it such incredible material as Colter furnished. His stories were not +believed; their author became the subject of jest and ridicule; and +the region of his adventures was long derisively known as "Colter's +Hell."[N] + +[N] This name early came to be restricted to the locality where Colter +discovered the tar spring on the Stinkingwater, probably because few +trappers ever saw the other similar localities visited by him. But +Colter's descriptions, so well summed up by Irving in his "Captain +Bonneville," undoubtedly refer in large part to what he saw in the +Yellowstone and Snake River Valleys. + +The story of Colter's subsequent experience before he returned to St. +Louis is thrilling in the extreme. Although it has no direct bearing +upon this narrative, still, since it is part of the biography of the +discoverer of the Upper Yellowstone, it can not be omitted. The +detailed account we owe to the naturalist Bradbury, already referred +to. He saw Colter above St. Louis in the spring of 1811, one year +after his return from the mountains, and received the story directly +from him. All other accounts are variations from Bradbury. Irving, who +has made this story an Indian classic, borrows it _in toto_. Perhaps +in all the records of Indian adventure there is not another instance +of such a miraculous escape, in which the details are throughout so +clearly within the range of possibility. It is a consistent narrative +from beginning to end. In briefest outline it is as follows: + +When Colter returned from his expedition of 1807, he found Manuel +Lisa, of the Missouri Fur Company, already in the country, where he +had just arrived from St. Louis. With him was one Potts, believed to +be the same person who had been a private in the party of Lewis and +Clark. In the spring of 1808, Colter and his old companion in arms set +out to the headwaters of the Missouri on a trapping expedition. It was +on a branch of Jefferson Fork that they went to work, and here they +met with their disastrous experience. + +One morning while they were in a canoe examining their traps they were +surprised by a large party of Blackfeet Indians. Potts attempted +resistance and was slain on the spot. Colter, with more presence of +mind, gave himself up as the only possible chance of avoiding +immediate death. The Indians then consulted as to how they should kill +him in order to yield themselves the greatest amount of amusement. +Colter, upon being questioned as to his fleetness of foot, sagaciously +replied that he was a poor runner (though in fact very swift), and the +Indians, believing that it would be a safe experiment, decided that he +should run for his life. Accordingly he was stripped naked and was led +by the chief to a point three or four hundred yards in advance of the +main body of the Indians. Here he was told "_to save himself if he +could_," and the race began--one man against five hundred. + +The Indians quickly saw how they had been outwitted, for Colter flew +away from them as if upon the wings of the wind. But his speed cost +him dear. The exertion caused the blood to stream from his mouth and +nostrils, and run down over his naked form. The prickly pear and the +rough ground lacerated his feet. Six miles away across a level plain +was a fringe of cottonwood on the banks of the Jefferson River. Short +of that lay not a shadow of chance of concealment. It was a long race, +but life hung upon the issue. The Indians had not counted on such +prodigious running. Gradually they fell off, and when Colter ventured +for the first time to glance back, only a small number were in his +wake. Encouragement was now added to hope, and he ran even faster than +before. + +But there was one Indian who was too much for him. He was steadily +shortening the distance between them, and at last had arrived within a +spear's throw. Was Colter to be slain by a single Indian after having +distanced five hundred? He would see. Suddenly whirling about, he +confronted the Indian, who was astounded at the sudden move and at +Colter's bloody appearance. He tried to hurl his spear but stumbled +and broke it as he fell. Colter seized the pointed portion and pinned +the Indian to the earth. + +Again he resumed his flight. He reached the Jefferson, and discovered, +some distance below, a raft of driftwood against the head of an +island. He dived under this raft and found a place where he could get +his head above water. There, in painful suspense, he awaited +developments. The Indians explored the island and examined the raft, +but Colter's audacious spirit was beyond their comprehension. It did +not occur to them that he was all the time surveying their movements +from his hiding place under the timber, and they finally abandoned the +search and withdrew. Colter had saved himself. When evening came he +swam several miles down the river and then went ashore. For seven +days he wandered naked and unarmed, over stones, cacti, and the +prickly pear, scorched by the heat of noon and chilled by the frost of +night, finding his sole subsistence in such roots as he might dig, +until at last he reached Lisa's trading post on the Bighorn River. + +Even this terrible adventure could not dismay the dauntless Colter, +and he remained still another year in the mountains. Finally, in the +spring of 1810, he got into a canoe and dropped down the river, "three +thousand miles in thirty days," reaching St. Louis, May 1st, after an +absence of six years. + +Colter remained in St. Louis for a time giving Clark what information +he could concerning the places he had seen, and evidently talking a +great deal about his adventures. Finally he retired to the country +some distance up the Missouri, and married. Here we again catch a +glimpse of him when the Astorians were on their way up the river. As +Colter saw the well appointed expedition setting out for the +mountains, the old fever seized him again and he was upon the point of +joining the party. But what the hardships of the wilderness and the +pleasures of civilization could not dissuade him from doing, the +charms of a newly-married wife easily accomplished. Colter remained +behind; and here the curtain of oblivion falls upon the discoverer of +the Yellowstone. It is not without genuine satisfaction that, having +followed him through the incredible mazes of "Colter's Hell," we bid +him adieu amid surroundings of so different a character. + + + + +CHAPTER IV. + +THE TRADER AND TRAPPER. + + +For sixty years after Lewis and Clark returned from their expedition, +the headwaters of the Yellowstone remained unexplored except by the +trader and trapper. The traffic in peltries it was that first induced +extensive exploration of the west. Concerning the precious metals, the +people seem to have had little faith in their abundant existence in +the west, and no organized search for them was made in the earlier +years of the century. But that country, even in its unsettled state, +had other and important sources of wealth. Myriads of beaver inhabited +the streams and innumerable buffalo roamed the valleys. The buffalo +furnished the trapper with means of subsistence, and beaver furs were +better than mines of gold. Far in advance of the tide of settlement +the lonely trapper, and after him the trader, penetrated the unknown +west. Gradually the enterprise of individuals crystallized around a +few important nuclei and there grew up those great fur-trading +companies which for many years exercised a kind of paternal sway over +the Indians and the scarcely more civilized trappers. A brief resumé +of the history of these companies will show how important a place they +occupy in the early history of the Upper Yellowstone. + +The climax of the western fur business may be placed at about the year +1830. At that time three great companies operated in territories whose +converging lines of separation centered in the region about +Yellowstone Lake. The oldest and most important of them, and the one +destined to outlive the others, was the world-renowned Hudson's Bay +Company. It was at that time more than a century and a half old. Its +earlier history was in marked contrast with that of later years. +Secure in the monopoly which its extensive charter rights guaranteed, +it had been content with substantial profits and had never pushed its +business far into new territory nor managed it with aggressive vigor. +It was not until forced to action by the encroachments of a dangerous +rival, that it became the prodigious power of later times. + +This rival was the great North-west Fur Company of Montreal: It had +grown up since the French and Indian War, partly as a result of that +conflict, and finally took corporate form in 1787. It had none of the +important territorial rights of the Hudson's Bay Company, but its lack +of monopoly was more than made up by the enterprise of its promoters. +With its bands of Canadian frontiersmen, it boldly penetrated the +north-west and paid little respect to those territorial rights which +its venerable rival was powerless to enforce. It rapidly extended its +operations far into the unexplored interior. Lewis and Clark found its +traders among the Mandans in 1804. In 1811 the Astorians saw its first +party descend the Columbia to the sea. Two years later the American +traders on the Pacific Coast were forced to succumb to their British +rivals. + +A long and bitter strife now ensued between the two British companies. +It even assumed the magnitude of civil war, and finally resulted in a +frightful massacre of unoffending colonists. The British government +interfered and forced the rivals into court, where they were brought +to the verge of ruin by protracted litigation. A compromise was at +last effected in 1821 by an amalgamation of the two companies under +the name of the older rival. + +But in the meantime a large part of their best fur country had been +lost. In 1815 the government of the United States excluded British +traders from its territory east of the Rocky Mountains. To the west of +this limit, however, the amalgamated company easily forced all its +rivals from the field. No American fur company ever attained the +splendid organization, nor the influence over the Indians, possessed +by the Hudson's Bay Company. At the time of which we write it was +master of the trade in the Columbia River valley, and the eastern +limit of its operations within the territory of the United States was +nearly coincident with the present western boundary of the Yellowstone +Park. + +The second of the great companies to which reference has been made was +the American Fur Company. It was the final outcome of John Jacob +Astor's various attempts to control the fur trade of the United +States. Although it was incorporated in 1809, it was for a time +overshadowed by the more brilliant enterprises known as the Pacific +Fur Company and the Southwest Fur Company. The history of Mr. Astor's +Pacific Fur Company, the dismal experiences of the Astorians, and the +deplorable failure of the whole undertaking, are matters familiar to +all readers of Irving's "Astoria." + +The other project gave for a time more substantial promise of +success. A British company of considerable importance, under the name +of the Mackinaw Company, with headquarters at Michilimacinac, had for +some time operated in the country about the headwaters of the +Mississippi now included in the states of Wisconsin and Minnesota. +Astor succeeded in forming a new company, partly with American and +partly with Canadian capital. This company bought out the Mackinaw +Company, and changed the name to South-west Fur Company. But scarcely +had its promising career begun when it was cut short by the War of +1812. + +The failure of these two attempts caused Mr. Astor to turn to the old +American Fur Company. The exclusion Act of 1815 enabled him to buy at +his own price the North-west Fur Company's posts on the upper rivers, +and the American Company rapidly extended its trade over all the +country, from Lake Superior to the Rocky Mountains. Its posts +multiplied in every direction, and at an early date steamboats began +to do its business up the Missouri River from St. Louis. It gradually +absorbed lesser concerns, such as the Missouri Fur Company, and the +Columbia Fur Company, and in 1823 was reorganized under the name of +The North American Fur Company. In 1834, Astor sold his interests to +Chouteau, Valle and Company, of St. Louis, and retired from the +business. At this time the general western limit of the territory +operated in by this formidable company was the northern and eastern +slope of the mountains which bound the Yellowstone Park on the north +and east. Its line of operations was down the river to St. Louis, and +its great trading posts were located at frequent intervals between. + +The third of the great rival companies was the Rocky Mountain Fur +Company, which originated in St. Louis in 1822, and received its full +organization in 1826 under the direction of Jedediah Smith, David +Jackson and William Sublette. Among the leading spirits, who at one +time or another guided its affairs, was the famous mountaineer James +Bridger to whom frequent reference will be made. + +This company had its general center of operations on the head waters +of Green River to the west of South Pass. Unlike the other companies, +it had no navigable stream along which it could establish posts and +conduct its operations. By the necessities of its exclusively mountain +trade it developed a new feature of the fur business. The _voyageur_, +with his canoe and oar, gave way to the mountaineer, with his saddle +and rifle. The trading post was replaced by the annual rendezvous, +which was in many points the forerunner of the later cattle "roundups" +of the plains. These rendezvous were agreed upon each year at +localities best suited for the convenience of the trade. Hither in the +spring came from the east convoys of supplies for the season's use. +Hither repaired also the various parties of hunters and trappers and +such bands of Indians as roamed in the vicinity. These meetings were +great occasions, both in the transaction of business and in the round +of festivities that always prevailed. After the traffic of the +occasion was over, and the plans for the ensuing year were agreed +upon, the convoys returned to the States and the trappers to their +retreats in the mountains. The field of operations of this company +was very extensive and included about all of the West not controlled +by the Hudson's Bay and American Fur Companies. + +Thus was the territory of the great West practically parceled out +among these three companies.[O] It must not be supposed that there was +any agreement, tacit or open, that each company should keep within +certain limits. There were, indeed, a few temporary arrangements of +this sort, but for the most part each company maintained the right to +work in any territory it saw fit, and there was constant invasion by +each of the proper territories of the other. But the practical +necessities of the business kept them, broadly speaking, within the +limits which we have noted. The roving bands of "free trappers" and +"lone traders," and individual expeditions like those of Captain +Bonneville and Nathaniel J. Wyeth, acknowledged allegiance to none of +the great organizations, but wandered where they chose, dealing by +turns with each of the companies. + +[O] A singular and striking coincidence at once discloses itself to +any one who compares maps showing the territories operated in by these +three companies, and those which belonged to the three great families +of Indians mentioned in a preceding chapter. By far the larger part of +the Hudson's Bay Company's territory, as far west as the main range of +the Rocky Mountains, was Algonquian. The American Fur Company's +territory was almost entirely Siouan, and that of the Rocky Mountain +Fur Company, Shoshonean. + +Nor did any company maintain an exclusive monopoly of its peculiar +methods of conducting business. The American Fur Company frequently +held rendezvous at points remote from its trading posts; and the Rocky +Mountain Fur Company in later years resorted to the Missouri River as +its line of supplies. In fact, the interests of the two companies +finally became to such an extent dependent upon each other that a +union was effected, in 1839, under the firm name of P. Chouteau, Jr. + +The records of those early days abound in references to the fierce +competition in trade which existed between these great organizations. +It led to every manner of device or subterfuge which might deceive a +rival as to routes, conceal from him important trapping grounds, +undermine the loyalty of his employes or excite the hostility of the +Indians against him. It often led to deeds of violence, and made the +presence of a rival band of trappers more dreaded than a war party of +the implacable Blackfeet. + +The vigor and enterprise of these traders caused their business to +penetrate the remotest and most inaccessible corners of the land. +Silliman's Journal for January, 1834, declares that-- + +"The mountains and forests, from the Arctic Sea to the Gulf of Mexico, +are threaded through every maze by the hunter. Every river and +tributary stream, from the Columbia to the Rio del Norte, and from the +Mackenzie to the Colorado of the West, from their head waters to their +junctions, are searched and trapped for beaver." + +That a business of such all-pervading character should have left a +region like our present Yellowstone Park unexplored would seem +extremely doubtful. That region lay, a sort of neutral ground, between +the territories of the rival fur companies. Its streams abounded with +beaver; and, although hemmed in by vast mountains, and snow-bound most +of the year, it could not have escaped discovery. In fact, every part +of it was repeatedly visited by trappers. Rendezvous were held on +every side of it, and once, it is believed, in Hayden Valley, just +north of Yellowstone Lake. Had the fur business been more enduring, +the geyser regions would have become known at least a generation +sooner. + +But a business carried on with such relentless vigor naturally soon +taxed the resources of nature beyond its capacity for reproduction. In +regions under the control of a single organization, as in the vast +domains of the Hudson's Bay Company, great care was taken to preserve +the fur-bearing animals from extinction; but in United States +territory, the exigencies of competition made any such provision +impossible. The poor beaver, as at a later day the buffalo, quickly +succumbed to his ubiquitous enemies. There was no spot remote enough +for him to build his dam in peace, and the once innumerable multitude +speedily dwindled away. The few years immediately preceding and +following 1830 were the halcyon days of the fur trade in the United +States. Thenceforward it rapidly declined, and by 1850 had shrunk to a +mere shadow of its former greatness. With its disappearance the early +knowledge of the Upper Yellowstone also disappeared. Subsequent +events--the Mormon emigration, the war with Mexico, and the discovery +of gold--drew attention, both private and official, in other +directions; and the great wonderland became again almost as much +unknown as in the days of Lewis and Clark. + + + + +CHAPTER V. + +EARLY KNOWLEDGE OF THE YELLOWSTONE. + + +On the west bank of the Yellowstone River, a quarter of a mile above +the Upper Falls, in a ravine now crossed by a lofty wooden bridge, +stands a pine tree, on which is the oldest record, except that of +Colter, of the presence of white men within the present limits of the +Park. It is an inscription, giving the initials of a name and the date +when inscribed. It was discovered in 1880 by Col. P. W. Norris, then +Superintendent of the Park. It is now practically illegible from +overgrowth, although some of the characters can still be made out. +Col. Norris, who saw it fifteen years ago, claims to have successfully +deciphered it. He verified the date by counting the annual rings on +another tree near by, which bore hatchet marks, presumably of the same +date. The time that had elapsed since these cuts were made +corresponded well with the inscribed date. The inscription was: + + J O R + Aug 19 1819 + +Efforts have been made to trace this inscription to some of the early +noted trappers, but the attempt can hardly succeed. Even if an +identity of initials were established, the identity of individuals +would still remain in doubt. Nothing short of some authentic record of +such a visit as must have taken place can satisfy the requirements of +the case. In the absence of any such record, the most that can be +said is that the inscription is proof positive that the Park country +was visited by white men, after Colter's time, fully fifty years +before its final discovery. + +Col. Norris' researches disclosed other similar evidence, although in +no other instance with so plain a clue as to date. Near Beaver Lake +and Obsidian Cliff, he found, in 1878, a cache of marten traps of an +old pattern used by the Hudson's Bay Company's trappers fifty years +before. He also examined the ruins of an ancient block-house +discovered by Frederick Bottler at the base of Mt. Washburn, near the +Grand Cañon of the Yellowstone. Its decayed condition indicated great +age. In other places, the stumps of trees, old logs used to cross +streams, and many similar proofs, were brought to light by that +inveterate ranger of the wilderness. + +The Washburn party, in 1870, discovered on the east bank of the +Yellowstone, just above Mud Geyser, the remains of a pit, probably +once used for concealment in shooting water fowl. + +In 1882, there was still living in Montana, at the advanced age of one +hundred and two years, a Frenchman by the name of Baptiste Ducharne. +This man spent the summers of 1824 and 1826 on the Upper Yellowstone +River trapping for beaver. He saw the Grand Cañon and Falls of the +Yellowstone and the Yellowstone Lake. He passed through the geyser +regions, and could accurately describe them more than half a century +after he had seen them. + +A book called "The River of the West,"[P] published in 1871, but +copyrighted in 1869, before the publication of any modern account of +the geyser regions, contains the record of an adventure in the +Yellowstone three years after those of Ducharne. The book is a +biography of one Joseph Meek, a trapper and pioneer of considerable +note. The adventure to which reference is made took place in 1829, and +was the result of a decision by the Rocky Mountain Fur Company to +retire from competition with the Hudson's Bay Company in the Snake +River Valley. In leaving the country, Captain William Sublette, the +chief partner, led his party up Henry Fork, across the Madison and +Gallatin Rivers, to the high ridge overlooking the Yellowstone, at +some point near the present Cinnabar Mountain. Here the party was +dispersed by a band of Blackfeet, and Meek, one of its members, became +separated from his companions. He had lost his horse and most of his +equipment and in this condition he wandered for several days, without +food or shelter, until he was found by two of his companions. His +route lay in a southerly direction, to the eastward of the +Yellowstone, at some distance back from the river. On the morning of +the fifth day he had the following experience: + +"Being desirous to learn something of the progress he had made, he +ascended a low mountain in the neighborhood of his camp, and behold! +the whole country beyond was smoking with vapor from boiling springs, +and burning with gases issuing from small craters, each of which was +emitting a sharp, whistling sound. When the first surprise of this +astonishing scene had passed, Joe began to admire its effect from an +artistic point of view. The morning being clear, with a sharp frost, +he thought himself reminded of the City of Pittsburg, as he had beheld +it on a winter morning, a couple of years before. This, however, +related only to the rising smoke and vapor; for the extent of the +volcanic region was immense, reaching far out of sight. The general +face of the country was smooth and rolling, being a level plain, +dotted with cone-shaped mounds. On the summit of these mounds were +small craters from four to eight feet in diameter. Interspersed among +these on the level plain were larger craters, some of them from four +to six miles across. Out of these craters, issued blue flames and +molten brimstone."[Q] + +[P] See Appendix E. + +[Q] Page 75, "River of the West." + +Making some allowance for the trapper's tendency to exaggeration, we +recognize in this description the familiar picture of the hot springs +districts. The precise location is difficult to determine; but Meek's +previous wanderings, and the subsequent route of himself and his +companions whom he met here, show conclusively that it was one of the +numerous districts east of the Yellowstone, which were possibly then +more active than now. + +This book affords much other evidence of early knowledge of the +country immediately bordering the present Park. The Great Bend of the +Yellowstone where Livingston now stands, was already a famous +rendezvous. The Gardiner and Firehole Rivers were well known to +trappers; and a much-used trail led from the Madison across the +Gallatin Range to the Gardiner, and thence up the Yellowstone and East +Fork across the mountains to the Bighorn Valley. + +In Vol. I, No. 17, August 13, 1842, of _The Wasp_, a Mormon paper +published at Nauvoo, Ill., occurs the first, as it is by far the best, +of all early accounts of the geyser regions prior to 1870. It is an +extract from an unpublished work, entitled _Life in the Rocky +Mountains_. Who was the author will probably never be known; but that +he was a man of culture and education, altogether beyond the average +trader, is evident from the passing glimpse which we have of his work. +He apparently made his visit from some point in the valley of Henry +Fork not far west of the Firehole River, for, at the utmost allowance, +he traveled only about sixty or seventy miles to reach the geyser +basins. The evidence is conclusive that the scene of this visit was +the Upper Geyser Basin. It fits perfectly with the description, while +numerous insuperable discrepancies render identification with the +Lower Basin, which some have sought to establish, impossible. +Following is this writer's narrative: + +"I had heard in the summer of 1833, while at rendezvous, that +remarkable boiling springs had been discovered on the sources of the +Madison, by a party of trappers, in their spring hunt; of which the +accounts they gave, were so very astonishing, that I determined to +examine them myself, before recording their description, though I had +the united testimony of more than twenty men on the subject, who all +declared they saw them, and that they really were as extensive and +remarkable as they had been described. Having now an opportunity of +paying them a visit, and as another or a better might not occur, I +parted with the company after supper, and taking with me two Pend +d'Oreilles (who were induced to take the excursion with me, by the +promise of an extra present,) set out at a round pace, the night being +clear and comfortable. We proceeded over the plain about twenty miles, +and halted until daylight, on a fine spring, flowing into Camas Creek. +Refreshed by a few hours' sleep, we started again after a hasty +breakfast, and entered a very extensive forest, called the Pine Woods; +(a continued succession of low mountains or hills, entirely covered +with a dense growth of this species of timber;) which we passed +through and reached the vicinity of the springs about dark, having +seen several lakes or ponds on the sources of the Madison, and rode +about forty miles; which was a hard day's ride, taking into +consideration the rough irregularity of the country through which we +traveled. + +"We regaled ourselves with a cup of coffee, the materials for making +which we had brought with us, and immediately after supper, lay down +to rest, sleepy and much fatigued. The continual roaring of the +springs, however, (which was distinctly heard,) for some time +prevented my going to sleep, and excited an impatient curiosity to +examine them, which I was obliged to defer the gratification of until +morning, and filled my slumbers with visions of waterspouts, +cataracts, fountains, _jets d'eau_ of immense dimensions, etc., etc. + +"When I arose in the morning, clouds of vapor seemed like a dense fog +to overhang the springs, from which frequent reports or explosions of +different loudness, constantly assailed our ears. I immediately +proceeded to inspect them, and might have exclaimed with the Queen of +Sheba, when their full reality of dimensions and novelty burst upon my +view, 'the half was not told me.' + +"From the surface of a rocky plain or table, burst forth columns of +water, of various dimensions, projecting high in the air, accompanied +by loud explosions, and sulphurous vapors, which were highly +disagreeable to the smell. The rock from which these springs burst +forth was calcareous, and probably extends some distance from them, +beneath the soil. The largest of these beautiful fountains projects a +column of boiling water several feet in diameter, to the height of +more than one hundred and fifty feet, in my opinion; but the party of +Alvarez, who discovered it, persist in declaring that it could not be +less than four times that distance in height--accompanied with a +tremendous noise. These explosions and discharges occur at intervals +of about two hours. After having witnessed three of them, I ventured +near enough, to put my hand into the waters of its basin, but withdrew +it instantly, for the heat of the water in this immense cauldron was +altogether too great for my comfort; and the agitation of the water, +the disagreeable effluvium continually exuding, and the hollow +unearthly rumbling under the rock on which I stood, so ill accorded +with my notions of personal safety, that I retreated back +precipitately to a respectful distance. The Indians, who were with me, +were quite appalled, and could not by any means be induced to approach +them. They seemed astonished at my presumption in advancing up to the +large one, and when I safely returned, congratulated me upon my +'narrow escape.' They believed them to be supernatural and supposed +them to be the production of the Evil Spirit. One of them remarked +that hell, of which he had heard from the whites, must be in that +vicinity. The diameter of the basin into which the waters of the +largest jet principally fall, and from the center of which, through a +hole in the rock, of about nine or ten feet in diameter, the water +spouts up as above related, may be about thirty feet. There are many +other smaller fountains, that did not throw their waters up so high, +but occurred at shorter intervals. In some instances the volumes were +projected obliquely upward, and fell into the neighboring fountains, +or on the rock or prairie. But their ascent was generally +perpendicular, falling in and about their own basins or apertures. + +"These wonderful productions of nature are situated near the center of +a small valley, surrounded by pine-covered hills, through which a +small fork of the Madison flows." + +Here we have a description, as from the pen of some earlier Doane or +Langford, free from exaggeration and true to the facts. No one who has +seen the Upper Geyser Basin will question its general correctness. The +writer then goes on to relate what he has learned from others, but +here exaggeration creeps in and this part of his narrative is less +reliable. It continues: + +"From several trappers who had recently returned from the Yellow +Stone, I received an account of boiling springs that differ from those +seen on Salt River only in magnitude, being on a vastly larger scale; +some of their cones are from twenty to thirty feet high, and forty to +fifty paces in circumference. Those which have ceased to emit boiling, +vapor, etc., of which there were several, are full of shelving +cavities, even some fathoms in extent, which give them, inside, an +appearance of honey-comb. The ground for several acres extent in +vicinity of the springs is evidently hollow, and constantly exhales a +hot steam or vapor of disagreeable odor, and a character entirely to +prevent vegetation. They are situated in the valley at the head of +that river near the lake, which constitutes its source. + +"A short distance from these springs, near the margin of the lake, +there is one quite different from any yet described. It is of a +circular form, several feet in diameter, clear, cold and pure; the +bottom appears visible to the eye, and seems seven or eight feet below +the surface of the earth or water, without meeting any resistance. +What is most singular with respect to this fountain is the fact that +at regular intervals of about two minutes, a body or column of water +bursts up to the height of eight feet, with an explosion as loud as +the report of a musket, and then falls back into it; for a few seconds +the water is roily, but it speedily settles and becomes transparent as +before the effusion. A slight tremulous motion of the water, and a low +rumbling sound from the caverns beneath, precede each explosion. This +spring was believed to be connected with the lake by some subterranean +passage, but the cause of its periodical eruptions or discharges, is +entirely unknown. I have never before heard of a cold spring, whose +waters exhibit the phenomena of periodical explosive propulsion, in +form of a jet. The geysers of Iceland, and the various other European +springs, the waters of which are projected upwards, with violence and +uniformity, as well as those seen on the head waters of the Madison, +are invariably hot." + +The cold water geyser above described, although, apparently a myth, +may not have been so after all. In many places along the west shore of +the Yellowstone Lake there are visible protuberances in the water +surface where boiling springs from beneath force the cold water +upward. It is quite possible that this spring was so connected with +the lake as to keep constantly filled with cold water to a +considerable depth; and that the eruptive energy of the spring was +expended in lifting the superincumbent mass without giving any visible +indication of the thermal action below. + +The whole article forms the most interesting and authentic reference +to the geyser regions published prior to 1870. It proves beyond +question that a knowledge of this region existed among the early +trappers, and confirms our previous deduction that the wide range of +the fur business could not have left it unexplored. + +In a letter addressed by General Bonneville to the Montana Historical +Society,[R] since the creation of the Yellowstone Park, he states +that, at the time of his sojourn in the mountains, in 1831-4, the +geyser regions were known to his men, although he had not personally +seen them. He also remembered having seen the trader Alvarez, referred +to in the above article. + +[R] See Appendix E, "Transactions Montana Historical Society." + +In 1844, a large party of trappers entered the Upper Yellowstone +Valley from the south, passed around the west shore of the Yellowstone +Lake to the outlet, where they had a severe battle with the Blackfeet +Indians, in a broad open tract at that point. The remains of their old +corral were still visible as late as 1870. + +There are numerous other interesting, though less definite, references +to an early knowledge of the Yellowstone; but those we have given show +their general character. The important fact to remember is that this +knowledge was barren of result. For the most part it existed only in +the minds of illiterate men, and perished with them. It never caught +the public ear and did not in the least degree hasten the final +discovery. Historically interesting these early adventures will always +be; as are also the Norse voyages to America; but they are very far +from being the Columbus voyage of discovery. + + + + +CHAPTER VI. + +JAMES BRIDGER. + + +Of the early characters whose names are closely linked with the +history of the Yellowstone, the most distinguished is James Bridger, a +sketch of whose life is given in Appendix A, under "Bridger Lake." +That he had often been in the region of the Yellowstone Park, and was +familiar with its unique features, is now well known. His first +personal knowledge of them is believed to date from 1824, when he is +supposed to have been upon the upper Yellowstone. It is certain that +before 1840 he knew of the existence of the geysers in the Firehole +Valley, although at that time he had probably not seen them himself. +Between 1841 and 1844 Bridger was leader of a grand hunting and +trapping expedition, which for upward of two years, wandered over the +country from the Great Falls of the Missouri to Chihuahua, Mexico. At +some time during this expedition he entered the region of the upper +Yellowstone and saw most of its wonders. His descriptions of the +geysers and other remarkable features of that locality can be traced +back nearly to this period and present an accuracy of detail which +could come only from personal observation. + +Among the records of these descriptions the earliest is that by +Captain J. W. Gunnison, of the Corps of Topographical Engineers, who +was associated with Captain Howard Stansbury, of the same corps, in +the Salt Lake Expedition of 1849-50. The record is found in +Gunnison's History of the Mormons,[S] and dates back to this +expedition. It reads: + +"He [Bridger] gives a picture, most romantic and enticing, of the head +waters of the Yellow Stone. A lake, sixty miles long, cold and +pellucid, lies embosomed among high precipitous mountains. On the west +side is a sloping plain, several miles wide, with clumps of trees and +groves of pine. The ground resounds with the tread of horses. Geysers +spout up seventy feet high, with a terrific, hissing noise, at regular +intervals. Water-falls are sparkling, leaping and thundering down the +precipices, and collect in the pool below. The river issues from this +lake, and for fifteen miles roars through the perpendicular cañon at +the outlet. In this section are the 'Great Springs,' so hot that meat +is readily cooked in them, and as they descend on the successive +terraces, afford at length delightful baths. On the other side is an +acid spring, which gushes out in a river torrent; and below is a cave, +which supplies 'vermillion' for the savages in abundance." + +[S] Page 151, Gunnison's History of the Mormons. See Appendix E. + +In this admirable summary we readily discover the Yellowstone Lake, +the Grand Cañon, the Falls, the geyser basins, the Mammoth Hot +Springs, and Cinnabar Mountain. Prior to 1860, Bridger had related +these accounts to Captain Warren, Captain Raynolds, Doctor Hayden, and +others, and although he seems to have convinced these gentlemen that +there was something in his stories, they still attributed less to fact +than to fancy. + +In his efforts to disseminate a knowledge of this region, Bridger was +as determined as Colter had been before him, and with little better +success. He tried to have his narratives published, but no periodical +would lend itself to his service. The editor of the _Kansas City +Journal_ stated editorially in 1879 that Bridger had told him of these +wonders fully thirty years before. He prepared an article from +Bridger's description, but suppressed it because his friends ridiculed +the whole thing as incredible. He later publicly apologized to +Bridger, who was then living at Westport, Missouri.[T] + +[T] Of interest in this connection is the following extract from a +recent letter to the writer by the present managing editor of the +_Kansas City Journal_: + +"The interview had with Bridger was in the year 1856. He told Col. R. +T. Van Horn, Editor of the _Journal_, which was published at that +time, the story of the Park with the geysers, and at the same time, +drew with a piece of charcoal on a piece of wrapping paper an outline +of the route necessary to be taken by a railroad should it ever cross +the continent, which route is exactly on the line that is now crossed +by the Union Pacific. + +In this conversation, he told the Colonel about the mud springs and +the other wonders of that part of the country, or to use his own +expression, 'it was a place where hell bubbled up.' + +The Colonel was much interested in the matter at the time and took +notes of the account, but did not print it because a man who claimed +to know Bridger, told him that he would be laughed out of town if he +printed 'any of old Jim Bridger's lies.'" + +The persistent incredulity of his countrymen, and their ill-concealed +suspicion of his honesty, to say nothing of his mental soundness, were +long a cloud upon Bridger's life; but, more fortunate than his +prototype, Colter, he lived to see himself triumphantly vindicated. +Whether from disgust at this unmerited treatment, or because of his +love of a good story, Bridger seems finally to have resolved that +distrust of his word, if it must exist, should at least have some +justification. He was in fact noted for "drawing the long bow to an +unparalleled tension," and for never permitting troublesome scruples +of conscience to interfere with the proper embellishment of his yarns. +These were generally based upon fact, and diligent search will +discover in them the "soul of truth" which, according to Herbert +Spencer, always exists "in things erroneous." These anecdotes are +current even yet among the inhabitants of the Yellowstone, and the +tourist who remains long in the Park will not fail to hear them. + +When Bridger found that he could not make his hearers believe in the +existence of a vast mass of volcanic glass, now known to all tourists +as the interesting Obsidian Cliff, he supplied them with another glass +mountain of a truly original sort. Its discovery was the result of one +of his hunting trips and it happened in this wise. + +Coming one day in sight of a magnificent elk, he took careful aim at +the unsuspecting animal and fired. To his great amazement, the elk not +only was not wounded, but seemed not even to have heard the report of +the rifle. Bridger drew considerably nearer and gave the elk the +benefit of his most deliberate aim; but with the same result as +before. A third and a fourth effort met with a similar fate. Utterly +exasperated, he seized his rifle by the barrel, resolved to use it as +a club since it had failed as a firearm. He rushed madly toward the +elk, but suddenly crashed into an immovable vertical wall which proved +to be a mountain of perfectly transparent glass, on the farther side +of which, still in peaceful security, the elk was quietly grazing. +Stranger still, the mountain was not only of pure glass, but was a +perfect telescopic lens, and, whereas, the elk seemed but a few +hundred yards off, it was in reality twenty-five miles away! + +Another of Bridger's discoveries was an ice-cold spring near the +summit of a lofty mountain, the water from which flowed down over a +long smooth slope, where it acquired such a velocity that it was +boiling hot when it reached the bottom.[U] + +[U] This story, which is taken from the report of Captain W. F. +Raynolds, was one of Bridger's favorites, and it is even said that he +did not regard it as pleasantry at all, but as plain matter of fact. +Mr. Langford, who often heard him relate it, says that he generally +described the stream as flowing over the smooth surface of a rock, and +reasoned that, as two sticks rubbed together produce heat by friction, +so the water rubbing over the rock became hot. In proof, he cited an +instance where the water was hot only in close proximity to the rock +and not at the surface. Mr. Langford found a partial confirmation of +the fact, but not of the theory, in fording the Firehole River in +1870. He passed over the smooth deposit of an active hot spring in the +bed of the stream, and found that the stream bottom and the water in +contact with it were hot. + +An account, in which the "soul of truth" is not so readily apparent, +is that of a mining prospector of this region, who, in later times, +met a unique and horrible fate. He had for days been traveling with a +party toward a prodigious diamond set in the top of a mountain, where, +even at noonday, it shone with a luster surpassing the sun. He arrived +at length on the top of the mountain only to see the diamond on +another summit apparently as far away as ever. Disheartened and weary, +he thought to save the labor of descent by taking advantage of an +extremely smooth face of the mountain, and accordingly sat down upon +his shovel, as upon a toboggan, and let slide. There was a vacant +place around the camp-fire that evening, and next day the rest of the +party, passing along the base of the mountain, found an infusible clay +pipe and the molten remains of a shovel. Warned by the fate of their +comrade, the superstitious survivors forbore any further search for +the diamond. + +To those who have visited the west shore of the Yellowstone Lake, and +know how simple a matter it is to catch the lake trout and cook them +in the boiling pools without taking them from the line, the ground +work of the following description will be obvious enough. Somewhere +along the shore an immense boiling spring discharges its overflow +directly into the lake. The specific gravity of the water is less than +that of the lake, owing probably to the expansive action of heat, and +it floats in a stratum three or four feet thick upon the cold water +underneath. When Bridger was in need of fish it was to this place that +he went. Through the hot upper stratum he let fall his bait to the +subjacent habitable zone, and having hooked his victim, cooked him _on +the way out_! + +In like manner the visitor to the region of petrifactions on Specimen +Ridge in the north-east corner of the Park, and to various points in +the hot springs districts, will have no difficulty in discovering the +base material out of which Bridger contrived the following picturesque +yarn. According to his account there exists in the Park country a +mountain which was once cursed by a great medicine man of the Crow +nation. Every thing upon the mountain at the time of this dire event +became instantly petrified and has remained so ever since. All forms +of life are standing about in stone where they were suddenly caught by +the petrifying influences, even as the inhabitants of ancient Pompeii +were surprised by the ashes of Vesuvius. Sage brush, grass, prairie +fowl, antelope, elk, and bears may there be seen as perfect as in +actual life. Even flowers are blooming in colors of crystal, and birds +soar with wings spread in motionless flight, while the air floats with +music and perfumes siliceous, and the sun and the moon shine with +petrified light! + +In this way Bridger avenged himself for the spirit of distrust so +often shown for what he had related. The time presently came, however, +when the public learned, not only how large a measure of truth there +was in his stories, but also how ingenious a tale he could weave from +very inadequate material. + + + + +CHAPTER VII. + +RAYNOLDS' EXPEDITION. + + +On the 13th of April, 1859, Captain W. F. Raynolds, of the Corps of +Topographical Engineers, U. S. A., was ordered to explore "the region +of country through which flow the principal tributaries of the +Yellowstone River, and the mountains in which they, and the Gallatin +and Madison Forks of the Missouri, have their source." This was the +first government expedition[V] directed to the precise locality which +is now embraced in the Yellowstone National Park. It is interesting to +us, not for what it accomplished--for it fortunately failed to +penetrate the Upper Yellowstone country--but because it gives an +admirable _resumé_, in the form of a report and a map, of the +geographical knowledge of that country down to the date of actual +discovery. + +[V] Accompanying this expedition as geologist was Dr. F. V. Hayden, +whose name is so intimately connected with the history of the +Yellowstone Park. James Bridger was guide to the party. + +Captain Raynolds was in the field during the two seasons of 1859 and +1860; but it was only in the summer of 1860 that he directed his +efforts toward the country in which we are particularly interested. In +May of that year the expedition left its winter quarters at Deer +Creek, Wyo., and marched to the junction of the Wind River and the +Popo Agie where these streams unite under the name of Bighorn River. +Here the party divided. One division under Captain Raynolds was to +ascend the Wind River to its source and then cross to the head waters +of the Yellowstone. This stream they were to follow down to the Great +Bend, and then cross over to the Three Forks of the Missouri. The +other party, under Lieutenant Maynadier, was to skirt the east and +north flanks of the Absaroka Range and to join the first party at the +Three Forks, if possible, not later than July 1st. + +Captain Raynolds was charged with other instructions than those +mentioned in his order, which must be kept in mind in order properly +to account for the final outcome of the expedition. A total eclipse of +the sun was to occur on July 18th of that year, and its line of +greatest occultation lay north of the British boundary. It was desired +that Captain Raynolds should be present in that locality in time to +observe the eclipse. This condition, rather than impassable mountains +or unmelted snows, was the chief obstacle to a thorough exploration of +the Upper Yellowstone. + +The two parties separated May 24th. Captain Raynolds, according to his +programme, kept up the Wind River valley, and with much difficulty +effected a crossing by way of Union Pass--which he named--to the +western slope of the mountains. He then turned north seeking a passage +to the head waters of the Yellowstone. When nearly opposite Two-Ocean +Pass, he made a strenuous effort to force his way through, spending +two days in the attempt. But it was still June and the snow lay deep +on the mountains. It was a physical impossibility to get through at +that point, and the risk of missing the eclipse forebade efforts +elsewhere. The Captain was deeply disappointed at this result. He +writes: + +"My fondly cherished schemes of this nature were all dissipated by the +prospect before us; ... and I therefore very reluctantly decided to +abandon the plan to which I had so steadily clung." + +It seems not a little singular that so experienced a guide as Bridger +should not have conducted the party up the valley of the Snake River +and thence over the low divide between that stream and the Yellowstone +Lake--a route which was perfectly practicable even as early as June. +But the plan does not appear to have been entertained, and the +expedition passed around the Park region to the west, arriving at the +Three Forks on the 29th of June. + +Lieutenant Maynadier wisely made no attempt to cross the Absaroka +Range, which rose continuously on his left. Had he done so, the deep +snow at that season would have rendered his efforts futile. He kept +close to the flank of the mountains until he reached the valley of the +Yellowstone north of the Park, and then hastened to join his +commanding officer at the appointed rendezvous. He reached the Three +Forks on the 3d day of July. + +The expedition had now completely encircled the region of the Upper +Yellowstone. At one point Captain Raynolds had stood where his eye +could range over all that country which has since become so famous; +but this was the limit of his endeavor. The Yellowstone wonderland was +spared the misfortune of being discovered at so early a day--a fact +quite as fortunate as any in its history. + +It will be interesting now to survey this region as known at the time +of the Raynolds Expedition. Nothing of importance occurred to increase +public knowledge of it until 1870, and Captain Raynolds'[W] Report is +therefore the latest authentic utterance concerning it prior to the +date of actual discovery. In this report Captain Raynolds says: + +"Beyond these [the mountains south-east of the Park], is the valley of +the Upper Yellowstone, which is as yet a _terra incognita_. My +expedition passed entirely around, but could not penetrate it.... +Although it was June, the immense body of snow baffled all our +exertions, and we were compelled to content ourselves with listening +to marvelous tales of burning plains, immense lakes, and boiling +springs, without being able to verify these wonders. I know of but two +men who claim to have ever visited this part of the Yellowstone +Valley--James Bridger and Robert Meldrum. The narratives of both these +men are very remarkable, and Bridger, in one of his recitals, +described an immense boiling spring, that is a perfect counterpart of +the geysers of Iceland. As he is uneducated, and had probably never +heard of the existence of such natural wonders elsewhere, I have +little doubt that he spoke of that which he had actually seen.... +Bridger also insisted that immediately west[X] of the point at which +we made our final effort to penetrate this singular valley, there is a +stream of considerable size, which divides and flows down either side +of the water-shed, thus discharging its waters into both the Atlantic +and Pacific Oceans." + +[W] See Bibliography. Appendix E, "Explorations of the Yellowstone," +etc. + +[X] Actually north-east. + +The Captain concludes this particular part of his report as follows: + +"I can not doubt, therefore, that at no very distant day, the +mysteries of this region will be fully revealed; and, although small +in extent, I regard the valley of the Upper Yellowstone as the most +interesting unexplored district in our widely expanded country." + +Lieutenant Maynadier also contributes a few interesting observations +upon this region. The vast importance of that extensive mass of +mountains, as a reservoir of waters for the country round about, +impressed him deeply. He says, somewhat ostentatiously: + +"As my fancy warmed with the wealth of desolation before me, I found +something to admire in the calm self-denial with which this region, +content with barren magnificence, gives up its water and soil to more +favored countries." + +Of the Yellowstone River, he was told that it had its source "in a +lake in the impenetrable fastnesses of the Rocky Mountains;" and that +for some distance below the lake it flowed through a narrow gorge, up +which "no one has ever been able to travel." + +[Illustration: + + MAP + OF THE + SOURCES of the YELLOWSTONE + AS KNOWN BETWEEN 1860 AND 1870 + FROM THE MAP + _OF_ + RAYNOLDS EXPEDITION OF 1860 + +_Opp. page 62._] + +But it is the map prepared by Captain Raynolds that tells a more +interesting story even than his written report. It reveals at once to +the eye what was known as well as what was unknown of the Upper +Yellowstone. Extending in a south-easterly and north-westerly +direction, is a large elliptical space, within which geographical +features are represented by dotted lines, indicating that they are put +in by hearsay only. In the midst of a surrounding country, which is +already mapped with great accuracy, there is a region wholly unknown +to the geographer. A cordon of mountains encircles it, and shows the +limit of official effort to gain a correct knowledge of it. Within +this enchanted inclosure lies the region approximately defined by the +44th and 45th parallels of latitude and the 110th and 111th meridians +of longitude, which now constitutes the Yellowstone National Park. +There one may catch glimpses, through the uncertain haze of tradition, +of the geysers, hot springs, Lake, Falls, Grand Cañon, Mammoth Hot +Springs, and Two-Ocean Pass. This was the net result of fifty years' +desultory wandering in and about and over this "mystic" region. + +Raynolds' report, it must be remembered, was the first official +recognition in any form of the probable existence of extensive +volcanic phenomena in the region of the Upper Yellowstone. Had it been +published immediately after the expedition, and had not public +attention been totally engrossed with other matters of overshadowing +importance, this region must have become fully known in the early +Sixties. But within a month after the return of Captain Raynolds to +civilization there had taken place the national election which was the +signal for attempted armed disruption of the Union. A year later found +every officer of the Army called to new fields of duty. Western +exploration entirely ceased until 1865, and was not vigorously resumed +for some years thereafter. Captain Raynolds' report did not appear +until 1868, although his map was published several years earlier in +order to meet a demand for it by the new settlers in western Montana, +Nothing transpired in the meantime to make the general public familiar +with this region, and the picture here given is therefore +substantially correct down to the date of the celebrated Washburn +expedition. + + + + +CHAPTER VIII. + +GOLD IN MONTANA. + + +Perhaps the most fascinating pages of American history are those which +recount the annals of the discoveries of gold and silver. No one can +appreciate the magnitude of those various movements by a simple +perusal of statistics of the mineral wealth which they disclosed. He +must pass through the mining belts and note how almost every rod of +ground, over vast tracts of country, is filled with prospect holes +that attest the miner's former presence. If the trapper carried the +tools of his trade to haunts remote and inaccessible, the miner, with +his pick and shovel, certainly outdid him. One can readily understand +that, as soon as such a movement should be directed toward the region +of the Upper Yellowstone, the wonders of that region would speedily be +revealed. + +The presence of gold in the mountains of Montana was first noticed as +far back as 1852. Later, in 1858, the Stuart brothers, James and +Granville, founders of Montana, discovered gold in the Deer Lodge +Valley; but they were destitute of equipments, and so constantly +exposed to the hostility of the Blackfeet, that they went to Fort +Bridger in the south-west corner of Wyoming, and did not return until +late in 1860. + +It was in 1860 and 1861 that the rich mines on the Salmon and Boisé +rivers were discovered. In 1862 the tide of discovery swept across +the mountains into Montana. The rich mines on Pioneer Creek, the Big +Prickly Pear, the Big Hole River, North Boulder Creek, and at Bannock +and other points, became known. Although there were scarcely a +thousand people in Montana in the winter of 1862-3, the news of the +great discoveries marshaled a host of immigrants ready to enter the +territory in the following spring. These were largely re-enforced by +adventurers from both the northern and southern states, who, with +little credit to their courage or patriotism, sought in these remote +regions exemption from the tributes and levies of war. The immigrants +were welcomed in the spring of 1863 by the news of the discovery of +Alder Gulch, the richest of all gold placers. The work of prospecting, +already being pushed with vigor, was stimulated to an extraordinary +degree by this magnificent discovery. Prospecting parties scoured the +country in all directions, often with loss of life through the +Indians, but rarely, after the first two or three years, with any +substantial success. Some of these expeditions have a particular +connection with our narrative because they passed across portions of +what is now the Yellowstone Park. + +The most important of them occurred in August and September, 1863. It +was led by Walter W. DeLacy, an engineer and surveyor of some +distinction in the early history of Montana. The party at one time +numbered forty-two men, although this number did not continue constant +throughout the expedition. Its sole object was to "prospect" the +country. Evidently nothing in the line of topographical reconnaissance +was thought of, for Captain DeLacy says "there was not a telescope, +and hardly a watch, in the whole party." + +The expedition left Virginia City, August 3d; passed south into Idaho +until it struck the Snake River, and then ascended that stream to the +region about Jackson Lake. Near the mouth of Buffalo Fork a halt was +made, a corral was built to hold the stock, and a miners' meeting held +at which rules were adopted to govern the miners in the contemplated +examination of the country. The party then broke up into small groups +and set out in different directions so as to cover as much ground as +possible. The last four days of August were spent in this search, but +with failure in every direction. This discouragement led to the +abandonment of the expedition. Fifteen men set out for home by the way +they had come, while DeLacy and twenty-seven men resolved to reach the +Madison River and the settlements by going north. A day later this +party entered the territory which is now the Yellowstone Park. + +The route lay up the Snake River to its junction with Lewis River +where the hot springs of that locality were discovered. Here another +separation occurred. About half the party went back down the river to +re-examine a locality where they thought they had found some fair +prospects. They soon returned, however, unsuccessful. The main party +under DeLacy ascended the hills to the west of the river to seek a +more practicable route. They soon reached the summit of the plateau +where they discovered what are now Hering and Beula lakes, and noted +their divergent drainage. Thence they passed north over Pitchstone +Plateau until they struck the valley of Moose Creek. They descended +this stream for a few miles and came to a large lake, which they +supposed to be tributary to either the Madison or the Yellowstone +Rivers. To their great surprise they found, upon rounding its southern +point, that it drained _south_ into the Snake. This is what is now +called Shoshone Lake. + +From the outlet of the lake, DeLacy sent a man down stream to examine +the river. This reconnaissance resulted in the discovery of Lewis Lake +and the hot springs basin there. When DeLacy resumed his route, he +followed along the east shore of the lake to its northern extremity, +and then ascended the beautiful open valley of DeLacy Creek. He +crossed the Continental Divide at the head of the valley, and camped +on the evening of September 8th some miles beyond the Divide toward +the Firehole River. The next morning, September 9, 1863, he came upon +the considerable stream of hot water which flows down a mountain +ravine into the Lower Geyser Basin close by the Great Fountain Geyser. +The reader will learn with some amazement that our party thought +little enough of this wonderful locality to pass directly through it +without halt or perceptible delay. Before the camping hour of the +afternoon had arrived, they were many miles away at the junction of +the Gibbon and Firehole rivers. + +The other section of the party, which had gone down the Snake from its +junction with Lewis River, soon returned, followed up the river to +Lewis and Shoshone lakes, passed around the western end of the latter +lake discovering its extensive geyser basin, and thence crossed over +to the Madison. This stream they descended through the geyser basins, +and followed the main party to the settlements. + +DeLacy might have passed into history as the real discoverer of the +Yellowstone wonderland, but for the fact that he failed to appreciate +the true importance of what he saw. In that, however, he was no +exception to the general rule of immigrants. The search for gold with +them so far overshadowed all other matters, that it would have +required something more than geysers to divert them, even momentarily, +from its prosecution. Although DeLacy kept a daily journal of his +expedition, and noted therein the various items of interest along his +route, he did not publish it until 1876, long after public interest +had been strongly attracted to the geyser regions. He did, however, +publish a map of the country through which he passed, and on this map +he correctly noted the drainage of Shoshone Lake--something which the +Folsom, Washburn, and Hayden (1871), expeditions all failed to do. He +also noted the various hot springs localities through which the party +passed. In a letter published in Raymond's "Mineral Resources of the +States and Territories West of the Rocky Mountains," in 1869, before +the date of the Washburn Expedition, he called attention to the +existence of geysers at the head of Shoshone Lake and on the Madison +River. + +DeLacy's account, as finally published, is an interesting early view +of this region, and is remarkable for its general correctness. That he +failed to publish his discoveries must be regarded as fortunate so far +as the Park is concerned, for the time had not yet come when it was +desirable that the real character of this country should be made +known. + +From 1863 to 1869 there were many other prospecting parties in the +region of the Upper Yellowstone. In 1863 one of these parties, +numbering thirty or forty men, ascended the Yellowstone and the East +Fork to the mouth of Soda Butte Creek, and thence crossed an +intervening ridge to the next northern tributary of the East Fork. +Here all their horses were stolen by Indians. There were left only one +or two mules on which was packed all the baggage they could carry, the +rest being concealed in a cache. The party then separated into two +portions and prospected the country for several days in the vicinity +of Clark's Fork. They finally returned, emptied the cache, and +descended to the Yellowstone where they found fair prospects near the +present north boundary of the Park. The expedition has no permanent +interest for this narrative except that it left the two geographical +names, "Cache Creek" and "Bear Gulch." + +In 1864, a party of seventy-three men under James Stuart passed from +Deer Lodge, Montana, to the Yellowstone Valley, and thence around the +east base of the Absaroka Range into the valley of the Stinkingwater. +The object of this expedition was to punish the Indians for outrages +of the previous year, and also to prospect the country for gold. At +the Stinkingwater, Stuart was compelled to return home. The party then +separated into groups that gradually worked their way back to the +Montana settlements. One of these small parties went as far south as +the Sweetwater River, then crossed to the Green and Snake Rivers, and +re-crossed the Continental Divide at Two-Ocean Pass. They descended +the Yellowstone, past the Lake and Grand Cañon, and beyond the +present limits of the Park. Norris found remnants of their camp +debris seventeen years afterward. + +In 1866, a party under one George Huston left Virginia City, Montana, +and ascended the Madison River to the geyser basins. Thence they +crossed to the Yellowstone at Mud Geyser, ascended the river to the +lake, passed completely around the latter, discovering Hart Lake on +their way, and then descended the Yellowstone by the Falls and Cañon, +to Emigrant Gulch. Here they were interviewed by a newspaper reporter, +and an account of their travels was published in the _Omaha Herald_. +They had seen about all there was to be seen in the whole region. + +At least two parties traversed the Park country in 1867. One of these +gave names to Crevice, Hell-roaring and Slough Creeks. An account of +the wanderings of the other party appeared in the _Montana Post_ of +that year. + +Many other parties and individuals passed through this region during +the Montana mining craze. Their accounts appeared now and then in the +local papers, and were reprinted throughout the country. By 1869, +probably very few of the reading public had not heard rumors of a +strange volcanic region in the Far West. In Montana, particularly, +repeated confirmation of the old trappers' tales was gradually +arousing a deep interest, and the time was fast approaching when +explorations for the specific purpose of verifying these rumors were +to begin. + + + + +CHAPTER IX. + +DISCOVERY. + + +The discovery of the Yellowstone Wonderland--by which is here meant +its full and final disclosure to the world--was the work of three +parties who visited and explored it in the years 1869, 1870, and 1871, +respectively. The first of these expeditions was purely a private +enterprise. It consisted of three men, and was the first party to +enter this country with the express purpose of verifying or refuting +the floating rumors concerning it. The second expedition was of a +mixed character, having semi-official sanction, but being organized +and recruited by private individuals. This was the famous "Yellowstone +Expedition of 1870"--the great starting point in the post-traditional +history of the Park. The third expedition was strictly official, under +the military and scientific departments of the government. It was a +direct result of the explorations of 1870, and was intended to satisfy +the public demand for accurate and official information concerning +this new region of wonders. It was the final and necessary step in +order that the government might act intelligently and promptly for the +preservation of what was believed to be the most interesting +collection of wonders to be found in the world.[Y] + +[Y] For diagram of routes, see Historical Chart, p. 11. + + +THE EXPEDITION OF 1869. + +The question of setting definitely at rest the constantly multiplying +rumors of wonderful volcanic phenomena around the sources of the +Yellowstone, began to be seriously agitated among the people of +Montana as early as 1867. An expedition was planned for that year but +came to nothing. A like result attended a similar effort the following +year. In 1869, the proposition came near materializing, but fell +through at the last moment owing to the failure to obtain a military +escort. There were three members of this proposed expedition, however, +who refused to be frightened off by any dangers which the situation at +that time promised. They had already provided themselves with an +elaborate equipment, and were determined, with escort or without it, +to undertake the trip. The names of these men were David E. Folsom, C. +W. Cook, and William Peterson, the last named being a native of +Denmark. Armed with "repeating rifles, Colt's six-shooters, and +sheath-knives," with a "double-barreled shot gun for small game;" and +equipped with a "good field-glass, pocket compass and thermometer," +and utensils and provisions "for a six weeks' trip," they set out from +Diamond City on the Missouri River, forty miles from Helena, September +6, 1869. + +The route lay up the Missouri to the Three Forks; thence _via_ Bozeman +and Fort Ellis to the Yellowstone River; and thence up the Yellowstone +to its junction with the East Fork inside the present limits of the +Park. From this point they crossed to the east bank and followed up +the river, passing through the many groups of hot springs to be found +east of the Grand Cañon. On September 21st, they arrived at the Falls +of the Yellowstone, where they remained an entire day. Some distance +above the rapids they re-crossed to the west shore and then ascended +the river past Sulphur Mountain and Mud Volcano to Yellowstone Lake. +They then went to the extreme west shore of the lake and spent some +time examining the surpassingly beautiful springs at that point. +Thence they crossed the mountains to Shoshone Lake, which they took to +be the head of the Madison, and from that point struck out to the +north-west over a toilsome country until they reached the Lower Geyser +Basin near Nez Percé Creek. Here they saw the Fountain Geyser in +action and the many other phenomena in that locality. They ascended +the Firehole River to Excelsior Geyser and Prismatic Lake, and then +turned down the river on their way home. They were absent on the +expedition thirty-six days. + +It is said that these explorers were so astonished at the marvels they +had seen that "they were, on their return, unwilling to risk their +reputations for veracity by a full recital of them to a small company +whom their friends had assembled to hear the account of their +explorations." But Mr. Folsom later prepared a most entertaining +narrative of his journey which was published in the _Western Monthly_, +of Chicago, in July, 1871.[Z] This article deserves a high rank in the +literature of the Park. It is free from exaggeration and contains +some descriptions unsurpassed by any subsequent writer. The article, +and personal interviews with the author and his companions, had a +strong influence in leading to the important expedition next to be +described. + +[Z] It is only through the undiminished loyalty of Mr. N. P. Langford +to every thing pertaining to the welfare of the Yellowstone National +Park that this article has been saved from oblivion. The office of the +_Western Monthly_ was destroyed by the great Chicago fire of 1871, and +all the files of the magazine were lost. Mr. Folsom had lost or given +away all copies in his possession. So far as is known there is but one +remaining copy of this issue and that is owned by Mr. Langford. In +1894, Mr. Langford caused the article to be reprinted in handsome +pamphlet form, with an interesting preface by himself, and it will now +receive the recognition which it justly deserves. + + +THE EXPEDITION OF 1870. + +The Yellowstone Expedition of 1870, more commonly known as the +Washburn-Doane Expedition, was the culmination of the project of +discovery to which frequent reference has already been made. At this +time the subject was exciting a profound interest throughout Montana, +and the leading citizens of the territory were active in organizing a +grand expedition. General Sheridan, who passed through Helena just +prior to his departure for the scene of the Franco-German War, spent +some time in arranging for a military escort to accompany the party. +The project did not assume definite shape until about the middle of +August, and when the time for departure arrived, Indian alarms caused +a majority of the party to repent their decision to join it. Finally, +their were only nine persons who were willing to brave all dangers for +the success of the undertaking. These nine were: + +General Henry D. Washburn, Surveyor-General of Montana, chief of the +expedition, and author of a series of valuable "notes" describing +it.[AA] + +[AA] See Appendix E. + +Hon. Nathaniel P. Langford, who published a series of articles in +_Scribner's Magazine_,[AB] which gave general publicity to the news of +discovery. He became first Superintendent of the Park. + +[AB] See Appendix E. + +Hon. Cornelius Hedges, who first proposed setting apart this region as +a National Park. + +Hon. Truman C. Everts, ex-U. S. Assessor for Montana, whose experience +upon the expedition forms the most painful and thrilling chapter in +the annals of the Yellowstone. + +Hon. Samuel T. Hauser, President of the First National Bank of Helena, +and later Governor of Montana. + +Walter Trumbull, son of the late Senator Trumbull. He published an +account of the expedition in the _Overland Monthly_ for June, +1871.[AC] + +[AC] See Appendix E. + +Other civilian members of the expedition were Benjamin Stickney, Jr., +Warren C. Gillette, and Jacob Smith. + +The personnel of this party is sufficient evidence of the wide-spread +interest which was being taken at the time in the region of the Upper +Yellowstone. + +The party proceeded from Helena to Fort Ellis, one hundred and +twenty-five miles, where they were to receive a military escort +promised by General Hancock, at that time commanding the department in +which Fort Ellis was located. The post order detailing this escort is +dated August 21, 1870, and directs Lieutenant Gustavus C. Doane, +Second Cavalry, with one sergeant and four privates, "to escort the +Surveyor-General of Montana to the falls and lakes of the Yellowstone +and return." There is a significant absence in this order of any +reference to geysers or hot springs; and the discreet post commander +evidently did not intend to commit himself to a recognition of their +existence on the strength of such knowledge as was then available. His +incredulity was indeed largely shared by the members of the party +themselves. Mr. Hedges subsequently said: + +"I think a more confirmed set of skeptics never went out into the +wilderness than those who composed our party, and never was a party +more completely surprised and captivated with the wonders of nature." + +Lieutenant Doane, than whom no member of the expedition holds a more +honorable place in its history, has left on record a similar +confession. + +The party as finally organized, including two packers and two colored +cooks, numbered nineteen individuals. Thirty-five horses and mules, +thoroughly equipped for a month's absence, completed the "outfit," and +made altogether quite an imposing cavalcade. + +August 22, 1870, the expedition left Fort Ellis, crossed to the +Yellowstone, and ascended that stream through the First and Second +Cañons, past the "Devil's Slide" and Cinnabar Mountain, to the present +north boundary line of the Park at the mouth of the Gardiner River. At +this point they were within five miles of the celebrated Mammoth Hot +Springs which are now the first attraction to meet the tourist's eye +on entering the Park. But the party kept close to the Yellowstone, +instead of taking the modern route up the Gardiner, and missed this +wonder altogether. + +It was August 26th when the expedition entered the present territory +of the Park. Lieutenant Doane and Mr. Everts, with one soldier and two +hunters picked up on the way, rode in advance along the brink of the +Third Cañon and across the high plateau between the Gardiner and Tower +Creek, camping at nightfall upon the latter stream. In the broad open +valley near the junction of the Yellowstone and East Fork, a small +tepid sulphur spring gave them the first evidence of their approach to +the regions of volcanic activity. + +Next day, the remainder of the party arrived. Two days were spent in +examining the beautiful Tower Falls, and--to our tyros in geyser +exploration--the wonderful hot spring formations to be seen at that +point. Here they also had for the first time glimpses of the Grand +Cañon of the Yellowstone. + +The party left Tower Creek on the 29th of August, and followed up the +river over the east flank of Mount Washburn. As their progress lifted +them rapidly above the surrounding country, a marvelously beautiful +landscape unfolded itself to their view. Presently an interesting +incident occurred, which shall stand here in Lieutenant Doane's own +language: + +"Through the mountain gap formed by the cañon, and on the interior +slopes some twenty [evidently a misprint] miles distant, an object now +appeared which drew a simultaneous expression of wonder from every one +of the party. A column of steam, rising from the dense woods to the +height of several hundred feet, became distinctly visible. We had all +heard fabulous stories of this region, and were somewhat skeptical of +appearances. At first it was pronounced a fire in the woods, but +presently some one noticed that the vapor rose in regular puffs, as +if expelled with great force. Then conviction was forced upon us. It +was indeed a great column of steam, puffing away on the lofty mountain +side, escaping with a roaring sound audible at a long distance, even +through the heavy forest. A hearty cheer rang out at this discovery, +and we pressed onward with renewed enthusiasm." + +The party then ascended the lofty mountain to their right, now known +as Mt. Washburn, and from its summit looked around upon the vast +panorama which is now included in the Yellowstone National Park. Had +old James Bridger been present at that moment, he would have received +ample vindication for long-standing injustice at the hands of his +incredulous countrymen. _There_ were the Cañon and Falls and Lake of +the Yellowstone, with evidence enough of boiling springs and geysers! +The enthusiasm of the party was unbounded, and Lieutenant Doane +exultingly declares that they were "more than satisfied with the +opening up of the campaign." + +The pack-train continued its course along the side of the mountain, +and went into camp after a march of only twelve miles. That evening, +Messrs. Washburn, Doane, and Hedges went on ahead of the main party, +discovering the extensive mud springs at the southern base of the +mountain, and finally reached the verge of a cliff beyond which yawned +the stupendous cañon of the Yellowstone. It was the first real view +from near by, but darkness prevented further examination. + +The next day saw the arrival of the party at the Falls of the +Yellowstone, close by the mouth of Cascade Creek, which, with its +Crystal Falls, received that day their present names. The remainder of +this day, August 30th, and the next, were spent in exploring the cañon +and measuring the heights of the falls. Messrs. Hauser and Stickney +descended the sides of the cañon to the brink of the river about two +miles below the falls; and Lieutenant Doane and Private McConnell +accomplished the same difficult feat further down. It needs not to be +said that the members of the party were profoundly impressed with the +incomparable scenery of the Grand Cañon, although their descriptions +of it are, perhaps, least satisfactory of any they have left us. + +From the Cañon the party ascended the now placid river amid +ever-changing wonders. They passed Sulphur Mountain and the uncanny +region around the Mud Volcano and Mud Geyser, then crossed to the east +shore of the river, and finally went into camp, September 3d, on the +shore of the Yellowstone Lake. Here our explorers were again in +ecstacies, and not without cause; for, seen under favoring conditions, +this "watery solitude" is one of the most beautiful objects in nature. + +After a day spent in this camp, the expedition continued by slow +stages up the east shore of the lake. Messrs. Doane and Langford +scaled the lofty Absaroka Range just east of the lake, being the first +white men known to have accomplished this feat, and their names now +designate two of its noblest summits. + +September 7th, the party forded the Upper Yellowstone and traversed +the almost impassable labyrinths of fallen timber between the several +projecting arms. on the south of the lake. It was on this portion of +the route, September 9th, that Mr. Everts became separated from his +party, lost his horse with all his accoutrements, and commenced those +"thirty-seven days of peril," which so nearly cost him his life. This +unfortunate affair cast a deep gloom over the little party and +seriously interfered with the progress of the expedition. A week was +spent in searching for the lost companion, without other result than +the discovery of the hot springs basins at Hart Lake and on the west +shore of the Yellowstone Lake. + +At length it was concluded that Mr. Everts had either been killed or +had wandered back home; and it was resolved to wait no longer. The +party were surfeited with sight-seeing, and believed that they had now +covered the whole ground. They therefore determined to strike across +the mountains to the Madison and follow that stream to the +settlements. They set out on the morning of September 17th, over +rugged hills and through fallen timber, crossing the Continental +Divide twice, and camping that night in an open glade on a small +branch of the Firehole. While passing the second time over the Divide, +they caught a glimpse of Shoshone Lake and erroneously thought it to +be the head of the Firehole River. + +At 9 A. M., September 18th, the march was resumed. The party soon +reached the Firehole just above Kepler Cascade and thence followed +down the course of the stream. Tourists who have visited the Park +since 1891, when the new road from the Upper Basin to the Lake was +opened, will remember that immediately after leaving "Old Faithful" +they plunge into an unbroken pine forest and see no other evidences +of geyser action until they reach the Lake. The situation of our +homeward-bound explorers can thus be easily understood. They were +traveling toward the geysers. The dense forest concealed every thing +beyond the radius of a few hundred feet. In unsuspecting mood, bent +only on getting home to tell their wonderful story, and perhaps to +find their missing companion, they moved down the river, crossing it +considerably below the site of the present bridge above the Upper +Basin, and suddenly emerged from the timber into an open treeless +valley. It was nearly noon of a clear, cool September day. Directly in +front of them, scarcely two hundred yards away, a vertical column of +water and steam was shooting upward a hundred and fifty feet into the +air. The bright sunlight turned the clear water into a mass of +glittering crystals, and a gentle breeze wafted the vast white curtain +of steam far to the right across the valley. Thus it was that "Old +Faithful," as if forewarned of the approach of her distinguished +visitors, gave them her most graceful salutation; and thus she bowed +out the era of tradition and fable, and ushered the civilized world +into the untrodden empire of the Fire King. Little wonder that our +astonished explorers "spurred their jaded horses," and "gathered +around the wonderful phenomenon." + +The party spent only the remainder of the day and the following +morning in the Upper Basin; but in that time saw seven of the +principal geysers in action, and gave them their present names.[AD] +They then passed down the river through the Middle and Lower Basins, +but stopped to examine only such curiosities as were close by the +river. Their rations were nearly gone, their lost companion was not +found, and the desire to tell what they had already seen was greater +than the desire to see more. They therefore made haste for home, and +on the evening of September 19th encamped where the Firehole and +Gibbon Rivers unite to form the Madison. From this point the party +journeyed steadily homeward, conversing on the expedition of the past +month, and planning how their great discovery might best be brought to +the attention of the world. + +[AD] See list of geysers, Appendix A. + +The news of this expedition created intense and wide-spread interest +throughout the country. Messrs. Washburn, Hedges, Trumbull, and +others, prepared numerous descriptive articles for the local Montana +papers, many of them among the best that have ever been written upon +the Park, and these were reproduced in every important paper in the +land. The _Helena Herald_, of October 27, 1870, only a month after the +return of the party, refers to the extraordinary interest aroused by +these articles, so unlike the sixty years' indifference which had +marked the history of this region. + +These preliminary and hasty reports were followed by more studied +efforts. Lieutenant Doane's masterly report was completed December 15, +1870. Besides its intrinsic merit, it has the distinction of being the +first official report upon the Upper Yellowstone country. It passed +through the customary military channels and was finally sent to +Congress, February 24, 1871. Prof. S. F. Baird, of the Smithsonian +Institution, also presented the information gathered by Lieutenant +Doane to the Philosophical Society of Washington during the winter. + +Messrs. Langford and Trumbull prepared entertaining magazine articles, +which, however, could not be gotten to press until the following May +and June. But Mr. Langford in the meantime did effective work from the +lecture stand. In Helena, Minneapolis, New York and Washington, he +told the story of what he had seen. In Washington, the Hon. James G. +Blaine, Speaker of the House, presided at the lecture, and in the +audience was Dr. F. V. Hayden, who was destined to play a prominent +part in the history of the Yellowstone Park. + +From whatever point of view considered, this expedition is one of the +most remarkable in our annals. From Helena to the farthest point +reached by the party, the route passed over was nearly three hundred +miles long. The region of the Upper Yellowstone is perhaps the most +difficult of access in the entire country. Even to-day, it is an +almost certain place in which to get lost, if one is not thoroughly +familiar with wilderness travel and happens to stray away from the +beaten path. In 1870, moreover, the danger from hostile Indians was a +constant and formidable menace, and the party was more than once +reminded of it during the progress of the expedition. But in spite of +all these difficulties, the success of the enterprise was so complete, +its incidents were so full of romance, and its results were so +far-reaching and important, that it well deserves the wide attention +it has received. + + +THE JOINT GOVERNMENT EXPEDITION OF 1871. + +The direct result of the expedition of 1870 was to cause the U. S. +Geological Survey to change its programme for the season of 1871, so +as to give attention to the new wonderland; and also to cause the +military authorities to send a well-appointed engineer party to the +same locality. These two expeditions, one under Dr. Hayden and the +other under Captains Barlow and Heap, of the Engineer Corps of the +Army, moved for the most part together, camping near each other, and +accompanied by the same military escort. Particular attention will +here be given only to such features of these expeditions as pertain to +new discoveries. + +At the very outset of their journey, they branched off from the +Washburn route at the mouth of the Gardiner River, and by ascending +this stream, discovered the wonderful formations now known as the +Mammoth Hot Springs. From this point, the parties traveled eastward to +Tower Creek; thence over Mt. Washburn, and past the Cañon and Falls, +to Sulphur Mountain, Mud Geyser, and the Lake; thence by a new route +across the mountains to the Lower Geyser Basin; thence to the Upper +Basin; thence east, across the mountains again, past Shoshone Lake to +Yellowstone Lake; thence around the head of this body of water to its +outlet; thence across the country, by separate routes, to the mouth of +Soda Butte Creek; and thence down the East Fork to Baronett's Bridge +(which had been built only a few months before), and out of the Park +by way of Mammoth Hot Springs. + +The original work done by these parties, besides the discovery of the +springs on the Gardiner, was the opening of a route between the +Yellowstone River and the Lower Geyser Basin; the exploration of the +Lower Basin; the mapping of the shore line of Yellowstone Lake, by Dr. +Hayden; the mapping of the head waters of the Snake River, by Captain +Barlow; and some hasty explorations in the valley of the East Fork of +the Yellowstone, now called Lamar River. + +The chief value of these explorations, however, was not in the line of +original discovery, but in the large collection of accurate data +concerning the entire region. The photographs were of immense value. +Description might exaggerate, but the camera told the truth; and in +this case the truth was more remarkable than exaggeration. +Unfortunately for Captain Barlow's collection, the great Chicago fire +almost entirely destroyed it. The same cause delayed the appearance of +his report until six weeks after the Park Bill was passed. An +interesting and complete summary, however, appeared as a supplement in +the _Chicago Journal_ for January 13, 1872. The report and collection +of photographs and specimens by Dr. Hayden were therefore the +principal results of this season's work, and they played a decisive +part in the events of the winter of 1871-2. + +With the close of the expeditions of 1871, the discovery of the +Yellowstone wonderland was made complete. It remained to see what +Congress would do with so unique and valuable a possession. + + + + +CHAPTER X. + +THE NATIONAL PARK IDEA--ITS ORIGIN AND REALIZATION. + + +The first steamboat to ascend the Missouri River as far as to the +mouth of the Yellowstone arrived at that point on the 26th of June, +1832. By a happy coincidence it bore the name _Yellowstone_. We are +indebted for the conception of the National Park idea to a passenger +upon this boat who was destined to become one of the most interesting +characters America has produced. Every one bears in memory those +pictures of Indian life which thrilled their youthful imagination with +visions of camping-grounds, council fires, exciting buffalo hunts, and +the wild and picturesque costumes of the red men. Very few, however, +realize how largely all that is best in these pictures has flowed from +a single source. The name of George Catlin is by no means familiar +except to the specialist. His work reaches the public eye through so +many different channels, and so often without any acknowledgment of +its origin, that the origin itself is very generally lost to view. + +To no other individual does the Indian race owe so much for the +perpetuity in history and art of its life and customs. From an early +age he displayed an enthusiasm for every thing pertaining to the +aboriginal races which can be adequately described only by the word +worship. He abandoned the profession for which he had been educated, +and enlisted his whole energy in the service of brush and pencil, +apparently for the single purpose of indulging this passion of his +life. He once wrote: + +"Unaided and unadvised, I resolved to use my art and so much of the +labors of my future life as might be required in rescuing from +oblivion the looks and customs of the vanishing races of native man in +America, to which I plainly saw they were hastening before the +approach and certain progress of civilization."[AE] + +[AE] Manners, Customs, etc., of the North American Indians. See +Appendix E. + +This high purpose Catlin followed throughout the remainder of his life +with unwavering fidelity. He visited almost every Indian tribe in +North America, gathering sketches and making descriptive notes. He +also visited South America, and afterward spent many years in Europe +exhibiting his work. The result of his labors was a gallery of more +than six hundred pictures, now happily forever safe under the +protection of the Smithsonian Institution in Washington, wherein he +delineated the portraits of famous chiefs and the scenes and customs +of Indian life. This work he supplemented with the scarcely less +valuable work of his pen, leaving behind him probably the best popular +description of the native races that has ever been written. His work +is a perennial fountain to which students of Indian themes will ever +resort. Valuable as it was considered in his lifetime, each passing +year makes it more valuable still. + +Catlin's enthusiasm for every thing pertaining to Indian life, and the +grief with which he beheld the certain fading away of it all before +the rapid progress of civilization, suggested to him the idea which +was to find partial fulfillment at the time to which our narrative +has now been carried. In order to preserve, at least on a small scale, +the native fauna of America, and a remnant of the Indian races, he +proposed that the government should set apart, in some suitable +locality of the West, a large tract of land, to be preserved forever +as a "_Nation's Park_, containing man and beast, in all the wildness +and freshness of their nature's beauty." With his natural enthusiasm +and vigor, he unfolded his idea, concluding: + +"I would ask no other monument to my memory, nor any other enrollment +of my name among the famous dead, than the reputation of having been +the founder of such an institution." + +In the report of the late Prof. Joseph Henry to the Board of Regents +of the Smithsonian Institution for 1871, it is stated that Catlin made +a proposition to the government in 1832 "to reserve the country around +these [the Yellowstone] geysers as a public park." While it is more +than probable, considering the date, and the wide acquaintance of Mr. +Catlin with the traders and Indians of the West, that he had heard of +the geyser regions, still there is not sufficient evidence attainable +to justify our acceptance of the above statement. But in every thing +else except the particular locality, and the plan of providing a +reservation for the Indians, Catlin's idea was the same as that +finally adopted by Congress. + +Although the project of creating a vast National Park in the West +originated with George Catlin, it is certain that Congress could never +have been brought to act favorably upon it, except under the influence +of some extraordinary motive. That motive was supplied when the +innumerable unique and marvelous wonders of the Yellowstone were made +known. Their preservation at once became a matter of high public duty, +which could be accomplished only by reserving from settlement the +region around them. + +Since the Park was created and has to such a marked degree received +the approval of the people, numerous claimants have arisen for the +honor of having first suggested the idea. In truth, no special credit +for originality should attach to the matter. It was a natural, an +unavoidable proposition. To those who first saw these wonders, and +were not so absorbed with gold-seeking as to be incapable of +appreciating their importance, it was clear that, within a few years, +they must become objects of universal interest. It was equally clear +that the land around them would soon be taken up by private parties, +and that the beautiful formations would be carried off for mercenary +purposes; in short, that the history of Niagara and of the Yosemite +would repeat itself in the Yellowstone. To avoid such a calamity only +one course was open, and that was for the government to retain control +of the entire region. That the necessity of such a course should have +been set forth independently by several different parties, as we find +it to have been, is therefore not in the least surprising. + +But in as much as the development of the project must have started +from some one source, it is of interest historically to determine what +this source was. We find it to have been the Washburn Expedition of +1870.[AF] The subject was discussed by the party at the first camp +after leaving the geyser regions near the junction of the Firehole and +Gibbon Rivers. The date was September 19, 1870. The members of the +party were sitting around the camp-fire after supper, conversing about +what they had seen, and picturing to themselves the important pleasure +resort which so wonderful a region must soon become. The natural +impulse to turn the fruits of discovery to the personal profit of the +discoverer made its appearance, and it was suggested that it would be +a "profitable speculation" to take up land around the various objects +of interest. The conversation had not proceeded far on these lines +when one of the party, Cornelius Hedges, interposed and said that +private ownership of that region, or any part of it, ought never to be +countenanced; but that it ought to be set apart by the government and +forever held to the unrestricted use of the people. This higher view +of the subject found immediate acceptance with the other members of +the party. It was agreed that the project should be at once set afoot +and pushed vigorously to a finish. + +[AF] Mr. Folsom deserves mention in this connection. In the manuscript +of his article in the _Western Monthly_ was a reference to the Park +idea; but the publishers cut out a large part of his paper, giving +only the descriptions of the natural wonders, and this reference was +cut out with the rest. Mr. Folsom also suggested the idea to General +Washburn, of which fact Mr. N. P. Langford is still a living witness. +From Mr. Folsom's suggestion, however, as from Mr. Catlin's, no direct +result can be traced. + +As soon as the party reached Helena, a series of articles appeared in +the daily papers of that city describing the late expedition, and in +one of these, written by Mr. Hedges and published in the _Helena +Herald_ November 9, 1870, occurs what is believed to be the first +public reference to the Park project. + +The next mention of the subject was in Mr. Langford's lecture, +delivered, as already related, in Washington, January 19, 1871; in New +York, January 21, 1871; and at a later date in Minneapolis. At each of +these places he closed his lecture with a reference to the importance +of setting apart this region as a National Park. The _New York +Tribune_ of January 23, 1871, thus quotes Mr. Langford: + +"This is probably the most remarkable region of natural attractions in +the world; and, while we already have our Niagara and Yosemite, this +new field of wonders should be at once withdrawn from occupancy, and +set apart as a public National Park for the enjoyment of the American +people for all time." + +Such is the origin of the idea which has found realization in our +present Yellowstone Park. The history of the Act of Dedication, by +which the Park was created, may be briefly told. The general plan for +a vigorous prosecution of the project was arranged in Helena, Montana, +mainly by Nathaniel P. Langford, Cornelius Hedges, and William H. +Clagett, who had just been elected delegate to Congress from Montana, +and who had already himself independently urged the importance of +converting this region into a public park. Mr. Langford went to +Washington when Congress convened, and he and Mr. Clagett drew the +Park Bill, except as to description of boundaries, which was furnished +by Dr. Hayden. The bill was introduced in the House by Mr. Clagett, +December 18, 1871. Senator Pomeroy, of Kansas, had expressed a desire +to perform a like service in the Senate, and accordingly Mr. Clagett, +as soon as he had presented the measure to the House, took a copy to +the Senate chamber and gave it to Senator Pomeroy, who immediately +introduced it. In each House it was referred to the Committee on +Public Lands. In the Senate no formal report was prepared. In the +House the Hon. Mark H. Dunnell, of Minnesota, chairman of the +sub-committee having the bill in charge, addressed a letter under date +of January 27, 1872, to the Secretary of the Interior, asking his +opinion upon the proposed measure. The Secretary replied, under date +of January 29th, fully indorsing the project, and submitting a brief +report by Dr. Hayden, which forcibly presented all the main features +of the case. + +The bill, being thus before Congress, was put through mainly by the +efforts of three men, Dr. F. V. Hayden, N. P. Langford, and Delegate +William H. Clagett. Dr. Hayden occupied a commanding position in this +work, as representative of the government in the explorations of 1871. +He was thoroughly familiar with the subject, and was equipped with an +exhaustive collection of photographs and specimens gathered the +previous summer. These were placed on exhibition, and were probably +seen by all members of Congress. They did a work which no other agency +could do, and doubtless convinced every one who saw them that the +region where such wonders existed should be carefully preserved to the +people forever. Dr. Hayden gave to the cause the energy of a genuine +enthusiasm, and his work that winter will always hold a prominent +place in the history of the Park. + +Mr. Langford, as already stated, had publicly advocated the measure in +the previous winter. He had rendered service of the utmost importance, +through his publications in _Scribner's Magazine_ in the preceding +May and June. Four hundred copies of these magazines were brought and +placed upon the desks of members of Congress on the days when the +measure was to be brought to vote. During the entire winter, Mr. +Langford devoted much of his time to the promotion of this work. + +The Hon. William H. Clagett, as delegate from the Territory most +directly interested in the passage of the bill, took an active +personal part in its advocacy from beginning to end. + +Through the efforts of these three gentlemen, and others less +conspicuously identified with the work, this measure received perhaps +the most thorough canvass of any bill that has ever passed Congress. +All the members were personally visited and, with few exceptions, won +to the cause. The result was a practical unanimity of opinion when the +measure came to a vote. This first took place in the Senate, the bill +being passed by that body January 30th. It was warmly supported upon +its passage by several members and opposed by one, Senator Cole, of +California; a fact the more remarkable because that Senator had in his +own state--in the preemption by private parties of the Yosemite +wonderland--the most convincing example possible of the wisdom of such +a measure as that proposed. + +The Senate bill came up from the Speaker's table in the House of +Representatives, February 27th. Mr. Dunnell stated that the Committee +on Public Lands had instructed him to ask the House to pass the Senate +bill. Hon. H. L. Dawes, of Massachusetts, warmly advocated the +measure, which was then passed by a decisive vote.[AG] The bill +received the President's signature March 1, 1872. + +[AG] No yea and nay vote was taken in the Senate. The vote in the +House was--yeas, 115; nays, 65; not voting, 60. + +This subject has been treated somewhat in detail because there has +long been a false impression among the people as to who it was that +first put forward this important project. To no individual is the +public more indebted for the creation of the Park than to Dr. F. V. +Hayden, who was long prominently connected with the geological surveys +of the government. But he did not, as is generally supposed, originate +the idea. His statement in his report for 1878, Vol. II, p. xvii, +that, "so far as is now known, the idea of setting apart a large tract +about the sources of the Yellowstone River, as a National Park, +originated with the writer," is entirely erroneous; and there is the +less excuse for the error in that Dr. Hayden had himself heard the +measure advocated by Mr. Langford in his Washington lecture. In fact, +he is known to have said in later years, only a short time before his +death, while residing in Philadelphia, that when the project was first +talked of among the members of his party, in the summer of 1871, he +personally disapproved it because he doubted the practicability of +adequately guarding so vast a region; but that, upon further +reflection, he became converted to the measure and was thereafter its +most ardent advocate. + +But it is not so much actual facts, as what men believe these facts to +be, that controls human action; and it is unquestionably true that the +above quotation correctly expresses the views of the great majority +of members of Congress when the Park measure was before that body. It +is not too much to say that Dr. Hayden's influence, as the official +representative of the government, was a controlling factor in the +passage of that measure. + +Perhaps no act of our national Congress has received such general +approbation at home or such profuse commendation from foreigners as +that creating the Yellowstone National Park. The lapse of twenty years +has only served to confirm and extend its importance; and to give +additional force to the sentiment so well expressed by the Earl of +Dunraven when he visited the Park in 1874: + +"All honor then to the United States for having bequeathed as a free +gift to man the beauties and curiosities of 'Wonderland.' It was an +act worthy of a great nation, and she will have her reward in the +praise of the present army of tourists, no less than in the thanks of +the generations of them yet to come."[AH] + +[AH] Page xi, "The Great Divide." See Appendix E. + +It was a notable act, not only on account of the transcendent +importance of the territory it was designed to protect, but because it +was a marked innovation in the traditional policy of governments. From +time immemorial privileged classes have been protected by law in the +withdrawal, for their exclusive enjoyment, of immense tracts for +forests, parks and game preserves. But never before was a region of +such vast extent as the Yellowstone Park set apart for the use of all +the people without distinction of rank or wealth. + +The example thus set by the United States has been widely followed. +We have now the Yosemite and Sequoia National Parks, and numerous +parks upon the sites of great battle-fields. The State of New York has +a Niagara Park and contemplates setting apart a portion of the +Adirondack region. Minnesota has the Itasca State Park, including the +sources of the Mississippi. Canada also has a public park at Niagara, +and a large reservation in the midst of the finest scenery of the +Rocky Mountains. New Zealand has set a part for public use the region +of her hot springs and geysers. Finally the question is being mooted +of reserving a vast tract of Africa wherein the large game of that +continent may be kept from annihilation. + + + + +CHAPTER XI. + +WHY SO LONG UNKNOWN? + + +There is no more singular fact connected with the history of the Upper +Yellowstone country than its long immunity from the presence of white +men. From the date when Lewis and Clark first stood at the Three Forks +of the Missouri, less than one hundred miles distant from this notable +region, sixty-five years elapsed before it was fully known. In the +meantime all the surrounding country had been thoroughly explored. +Cities, villages, farms and highways had been established throughout +the west. A railroad had been built across the continent. But around +the head waters of the Yellowstone, the most attractive region of all, +it was still _terra incognita_. A fact so remarkable requires adequate +explanation. + +The most difficult feature of the question is the fact that no +knowledge of this region appears ever to have been derived from the +Indians. Lewis and Clark were told of the Great Falls of the Missouri, +and of other notable geographical features, long before they saw them. +But of the far more wonderful falls of the Yellowstone, of the great +lake in the mountains, or of the marvelous volcanic phenomena in the +same neighborhood, they received no hint. There is not a single +instance on record, so far as we can discover, except in the meager +facts noted in an earlier chapter, where rumors of this strange +country appear to have fallen from the lips of Indians. And yet it +was not a region unknown to them, for they had certainly passed back +and forth across it for a long period in the past. Their deep silence +concerning it is therefore no less remarkable than mysterious. + +But how was it that the long period of the fur trade should have +passed without disclosing this country? To this question a more +satisfactory answer may be returned. The Upper Yellowstone country was +indeed, as we have seen, frequently visited in these early years. But +it was never favorite territory. Old trappers say that, although it +abounded in beaver, they were not so plentiful as in lower altitudes, +while on the streams impregnated with mineral matter, the furs were +not so good. The seasons also were unpropitious. The winter snows were +so deep--they came so early and remained so late--that little could be +done there except from the middle of June to the middle of September. +But furs taken during the summer months are of inferior quality, and +there was consequently no inducement to trap. Moreover it was +generally at this time that the gatherings at posts and rendezvous +took place, and after these were over but little time remained. Causes +like these prevented extensive operations in this region, and +doubtless only a comparatively small number of trappers ever saw it. + +Then, the interest of the trader was against the dissemination of any +knowledge which might induce immigration and hasten the certain ruin +of his occupation. The stress of competition also caused him to remain +silent concerning the places he had seen, lest a rival should profit +thereby. He took no pains to reveal the country, and the trappers were +too illiterate to do so had they wished. With the one notable +exception which has been mentioned in a previous chapter, no +important press notice of these regions appeared during the entire +sixty-five years. + +The fur business itself quickly ran its course, and with it +disappeared all probability of an early discovery of the geyser +regions from this cause. The war with Mexico followed, with the vast +cession of territory which it secured. Then came the highly important +discovery of gold in California. Already the Mormon emigration had +taken place. These great events completely changed the character and +purpose of western exploration. The whole west was forgotten excepting +only California and the Salt Lake Valley, and the routes leading to +them. None of these led close to the geyser regions. On the north were +the British fur trader's route, and the Missouri River route, both of +which led directly west to the Columbia. To the south was the great +thoroughfare along the Platte River and though South Pass, leading to +Utah, California and Oregon. Still further south were the long known +routes near the border of Old Mexico. It was hopelessly improbable +that gold seekers bound to the Pacific Coast along any of these routes +would stray into the mountain fastnesses about the sources of the +Yellowstone. + +Finally the whole energy of the government in the field of exploration +was directed away from this region. In the period from 1804-6, the +date of Lewis and Clark's expedition, to 1870, the date of the real +discovery of the Park, there were no fewer than one hundred and ten +explorations in the country west of the Mississippi, nearly all of +which had government authority, and were conducted on a scientific +basis. Of these, eighty-four were in the territory lately acquired +from Mexico, and mostly in the far south and west. Nineteen were east +of the Bighorn Mountains, five north of the Yellowstone, and only two +in the region about the Upper Yellowstone. Of these two expeditions +one was that of Lewis and Clark, and was in no wise intended to +explore the Upper Yellowstone further than might be necessary to find +a good route to the Pacific. This leaves but a single expedition of +the whole number, that of Captain Raynolds, which was directed to this +specific territory. How the purpose of this expedition was defeated by +the heavy snow in the mountains and by the solar eclipse of 1860, has +been elsewhere related. + +And so it came about that it was the gold-seeker who finally revealed +the well-kept secret of the Yellowstone. Itself destitute of mineral +wealth, this region could not escape the ubiquitous prospector. It was +not, indeed, by him that it was publicly proclaimed to the world. He +cared little for any country that was destitute of "color" or "pay." +But the hints he dropped put others on the track and opened the door +to real discovery. + +This fact of long delay in the discovery of the Upper Yellowstone is +the most important in its history. Had it been known at an earlier +date, its fate would have been deplorably different. The period of the +fur traders was too early for the interest of the people to demand, or +the power of the government to enforce, its protection. If Captain +Raynolds had discovered it, all its most valuable tracts would have +been preempted long before the government would have been able to give +it attention. Fortunately, the discovery was delayed until there was +a considerable population in the country near by, and the government +was prepared actively to consider the matter. Before settlers could +establish a permanent foothold, the Park was created, and all the +vexatious obstacles, which might otherwise have defeated the project, +were avoided. + + + + +CHAPTER XII. + +LATER EXPLORATIONS. + + +As soon as the remarkable character of the country about the sources +of the Yellowstone became generally known, there was a rush of +explorers to its borders. Every expedition that could possibly extend +the field of its labors in that direction did so, and there was +scarcely a summer during the next twenty years that the Park was not +the scene of some official exploration or visit. + +By far the most important of these were the various expeditions under +the United States Geological Survey. Dr. Hayden was again in the +country with two parties in 1872, and very widely extended the range +of observations of the previous year. In 1878, survey parties again +entered the Park and resumed work there on a much more minute and +extensive scale. The result of that year's explorations appeared in +1883 in the form of an elaborate report by Dr. Hayden and his +co-workers, which entered with much detail into the more important +subjects of scientific interest. It was embellished with a great +number of engravings and colored plates, and with an exhaustive series +of topographical and geological maps. The work was again taken up in +1883, and was continued for several years. All questions of scientific +importance were investigated more thoroughly than ever before, and +many valuable official reports and monographs, together with a superb +map, have been the result. + +In 1872, General John Gibbon, U. S. A., with a considerable party, +made a tour of the Park, passing by the usual route from Mammoth Hot +Springs _via_ Mt. Washburn, the Grand Cañon, and the Lake, to the +Firehole Geyser Basins. On his way home he attempted to ascend the +north Fork of the Madison, following an old trail; but he abandoned +the attempt after going a few miles. His name, which was given to the +river, has also attached to many other features along that valley. + +In 1873, Captain William A. Jones, of the Corps of Engineers, passed +through the Park as part of a more extended reconnaissance. He was the +first to carry a party through the "impassable barrier" of the +Absaroka Range. Jones Creek, just east of the northern portion of the +Yellowstone Lake, shows where the party entered the Park. From the +Lake the expedition passed down the east bank of the river to the +valley of Junction Butte; thence west to Mammoth Hot Springs; thence +back over the usual trail _via_ Tower Creek, Mt. Washburn, the Grand +Cañon and Mud Geyser, to the Lower Geyser Basin; thence _via_ the +Upper Basin to the west shore of the Yellowstone Lake; thence to the +Upper Yellowstone River; thence through Two-Ocean Pass and Two-Gwo-Tee +Pass to the valley of Wind River. The chief results of this +expedition, in the line of original discovery, were the passage of the +Absaroka Range, the verification of the traditional "Two-Ocean Water," +between Atlantic and Pacific Creeks, in Two-Ocean Pass, and the +discovery of the extremely easy pass (Two-Gwo-Tee[AI]) over the +Continental Divide, between the Snake and Wind Rivers. Prof. Theodore +B. Comstock accompanied the expedition as geologist. A valuable report +of the reconnaissance appeared in 1875.[AJ] + +[AI] So named by Captain Jones for one of his Indian guides. + +[AJ] See Appendix E. + +In 1875, Captain William Ludlow, of the Corps of Engineers, made a +reconnaissance from Carroll, Montana, on the Missouri River, to the +Yellowstone Park and return. In the Park he followed the previously +traveled routes and developed little in the line of original +discovery. He succeeded, however, in obtaining a very accurate +measurement of the height of the Yellowstone Falls, and his report[AK] +forms one of the ablest brief descriptions of the Park extant. Among +his civil assistants was George Bird Grinnell, now widely known as the +editor of _Forest and Stream_, and as one of the most steadfast and +watchful guardians the Park has ever had. + +[AK] See Appendix E. + +During the same season a distinguished party, consisting of the +Secretary of War, Gen. W. W. Belknap, and several prominent officers +and civilians, with Lieutenant G. C. Doane, of National Park fame, as +guide, made a complete tour of the Park. An exceedingly interesting +narrative[AL] of the trip was written by Gen. W. E. Strong, who was a +member of the party. + +[AL] See Appendix E. + +In 1877, Gen. W. T. Sherman and staff made a tour of the Park. His +letters on the subject to the Secretary of War, and the official +report prepared by Gen. O. M. Poe of his staff, form a valuable +contribution to the literature of the Park.[AM] + +[AM] See Appendix E. + +In the same year Gen. O. O. Howard crossed the reservation in pursuit +of the Nez Percés Indians. + +In 1880, the Hon. Carl Schurz, Secretary of the Interior, accompanied +by Gen. Crook with a large number of officers and soldiers, and an +immense pack train, entered the Park from the valley of Henry Fork and +made an extended tour. + +In 1881, Captain W. S. Stanton, of the Corps of Engineers, made a +reconnaissance through the Park, entering by the way of Soda Butte +Creek, and passing out by the Madison Valley. The most important +result of his work in the Park was a more accurate table of distances +over some of the routes than had previously been in use. + +In July and August of this year, the Hon. John W. Hoyt, Governor of +Wyoming, with a military escort under command of Major Julius W. +Mason, U. S. A., made an extended reconnaissance to discover a +practicable wagon route to the Yellowstone Park from the south-east. +He entered the Park by way of the Upper Yellowstone, passed through it +by way of Yellowstone and Shoshone Lakes, the Firehole Geyser Basins, +the Grand Cañon, the lower end of Yellowstone Lake, and left it along +the route by which Captain Jones had entered in 1873. + +In the years 1881 and 1882, General Sheridan, with parties of +considerable size, twice crossed the Park and visited its most +important points. His expeditions were of great value to the Park from +the forcible warning which he gave to the public concerning the +demoralized condition of its civil administration. + +[Illustration: + + _Terry Engr. Co._ _Haynes, Photo., St. Paul._ + +1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 + +Presidential Party of 1883. + +1. John Schuyler Crosby, Governor of Montana Territory; 2. Michael V. +Sheridan, Lieutenant-Colonel and Military Secretary; 3. Philip H. +Sheridan, Lieutenant-General, U. S. Army; 4. Anson Stager, +Brigadier-General, U. S. Volunteers; 5. W. P. Clark, Captain Second +Cavalry, U. S. Army; 6. Chester A. Arthur, President of the United +States; 7. Dan. G. Rollins, Surrogate of New York; 8. James F. +Gregory, Lieutenant-Colonel and Aide-de-camp; 9. Robert T. Lincoln, +Secretary of War; 10. George G. Vest, United States Senator from +Missouri.] + +The most elaborate expedition that ever passed through this region +took place in August, 1883.[AN] It included among its members the +President of the United States, the Secretary of War, the +Lieutenant-General of the Army, a United States Senator, and several +other distinguished officers and civilians. The interesting part of +the journey lay between Fort Washakie, Wyo., and the Northern Pacific +Railroad at Cinnabar, Mont. The party traveled entirely on horseback, +accompanied by one of the most complete pack trains ever organized in +this or any other country, and escorted by a full troop of cavalry. +Couriers were stationed every twenty miles with fresh relays, and by +this means communication was daily had with the outside world. The +whole distance traveled was 350 miles, through some of the wildest, +most rugged, and least settled portions of the west. No accident or +drawback occurred to mar the pleasure of the expedition. The great +pastime _en route_ was trout fishing, in which the President and +Senator Vest were acknowledged leaders. The phenomenal "catches" of +these distinguished sportsmen might pass into history as typical "fish +stories," were they not vouched for by the sober record of official +dispatches, and the unerring evidence of photographer Haynes' camera. +The elaborate equipment of this expedition, the eminent character of +its _personnel_, and the evident responsibility resting upon those who +conducted it, attracted a great deal of attention at the time, and +gave it a prominent place in the annals of Western Wyoming.[AO] + +[AN] The year 1883 seems to have been the banner year for +distinguished visitors to the Park. The list of arrivals for that year +includes the President of the United States and a member of his +cabinet; the Chief-Justice and an Associate Justice of the United +States Supreme Court; the General, Lieutenant-General, and a large +number of other distinguished officers of the army; six United States +Senators; one Territorial Governor; a prominent railroad president; +the Ministers from Great Britain and Germany; the President of the +Admiralty Division of the High Court of Justice, England; three +members of Parliament; and a considerable number of other eminent +personages, both from this country and abroad. + +[AO] See Appendix E--"A Journey through the Y. N. P., etc." + +To these various expeditions must be added the extensive, though +desultory, explorations of P. W. Norris during the five years that he +was Superintendent of the Park. + +It has thus come about that the Yellowstone National Park, though +remote, inaccessible, and of great extent, is about the most +thoroughly explored section of the United States. Within the territory +bounded by the 44th and 45th parallels of latitude, and the 110th and +111th meridians of longitude, there are nearly four hundred +geographical names. The names of hot springs and geysers would +probably double the number. To appreciate this fact, it must be +remembered that there are no settlements in the Park, and that +counties, townships, cities, and villages, which on ordinary maps form +so large a proportion of the names, are here entirely absent. That +region has indeed been a paradise for the explorer, the topographer, +and the geologist; and its splendid opportunities have not gone +unimproved. + +Although not strictly in the line of original exploration, the few +winter journeys that have been made through the Park may nevertheless +most appropriately be considered in this place, reserving for a later +chapter a description of the difficult and hazardous nature of these +undertakings. The first of these expeditions was in 1887, under the +auspices of the _New York World_, and was led by Frederick Schwatka, +the Arctic explorer. It was organized on a grand scale, "with Arctic +'sleeping bags,' the Norwegian 'ski,' the Canadian 'web' snow shoe, +and toboggans to carry supplies, photographic equipment, and +astronomical instruments." But the elaborate outfit proved fatal to +the enterprise, which quickly resulted in a magnificent failure. The +conditions were different from those in Arctic travel, and the recent +fall of light snow negatived any attempt to move toboggans through it +successfully. The party consumed three days in getting to Norris, a +distance of twenty miles. Here Lieutenant Schwatka became ill and the +expedition was abandoned. + +But Mr. F. J. Haynes, the well known Park photographer, who had +accompanied the party, resolved to continue the tour in order to +secure a collection of winter views. Three other members of the party +joined him. They abandoned the toboggan and strapped the baggage on +their backs. They went by way of the usual route to the Upper Geyser +Basin, where they were snow-bound for five days in a fearful blizzard. +Thence they went to the Grand Cañon, and from that point over Mount +Washburn to Yancey's. On this part of the trip the party nearly lost +their lives, wandering for three days in a blinding storm without food +or shelter. The circuit covered about two hundred miles, and the +temperature ranged from ten to fifty-two degrees below zero during the +entire trip of twenty-nine days. + +In March, 1894, two very important winter expeditions were made in the +Park. Mr. F. J. Haynes went through for the purpose of extending his +line of winter views, and also of photographing the Park game. +Accompanying him was Felix Burgess, government scout. + +Following this party by a few days, and joining it at the Grand Cañon, +came another party with a staff correspondent of _Forest and Stream_. +This gentleman, Mr. E. Hough, of Chicago, Ill., made the entire round +of the Park, studying its game and other similar matters.[AP] His +narrative, published in _Forest and Stream_, forms one of the most +entertaining and valuable contributions yet made to the literature of +the Park. These two expeditions played an important part in securing +the enactment of the National Park Protective Act, in May, 1894. + +[AP] See Appendix E, "Yellowstone Park Game Exploration." + + + + +CHAPTER XIII. + +AN INDIAN CAMPAIGN THROUGH THE YELLOWSTONE PARK. + + +In a letter dated at Fort Ellis, Montana Territory, August 19, 1877, +addressed to the Hon. George W. McCreary, Secretary of War, the +writer, General W. T. Sherman, then on a tour of inspection of the +"country north of the Union Pacific Railroad," tells of his recent +visit to the Yellowstone National Park. This was about the period when +our Indian wars in the Far West were at their height. Only a year had +elapsed since the Custer massacre. It was the crisis of the Indian +military question. There was at that time scarcely a spot in the whole +Missouri and Yellowstone Valleys that was safe from Indian +depredations. Naturally, therefore, General Sherman had his mind upon +this subject when his small party, comparatively unprotected, were +traveling through the wilds of the National Park. But he saw nothing +there to excite his fears, and in the letter above referred to, says: +"We saw no signs of Indians and felt at no moment more sense of danger +than we do here." It will presently be seen how delusive was this +fancied security, and by how narrow a margin it escaped resulting +disastrously to the General's party. + +The tour from Fort Ellis to the Park and return had taken from August +4th to August 18th. On the latter date, the party met an ingoing +company of tourists from Helena composed of the following persons: A. +J. Weikert, Richard Dietrich, Frederick Pfister, Joseph Roberts, +Charles Kenck, Jack Stewart, August Foller, Leslie Wilke, L. Duncan, +and Benjamin Stone (colored cook). The party followed the usual route +to the Grand Cañon and Falls of the Yellowstone, where they were in +camp August 24th. + +As they were entering the territory of the Park, another party was on +the point of leaving it after a tour of about two weeks. This party +was composed of the following persons, most of whom were from +Radersburg, Montana: George F. Cowan and wife, Frank and Ida +Carpenter, brother and sister of Mrs. Cowan, Charles Mann, William +Dingee, Albert Oldham, A. J. Arnold, and a Mr. Meyers. They had formed +a permanent camp in the Lower Geyser Basin, where the Fountain Hotel +now stands, and from that point had made daily short excursions to the +various localities of interest. They all visited the geyser basins and +some of the party crossed to the Lake and Cañon of the Yellowstone. +They must have been seen by Sherman's party, for they were directly in +his route. The party had completed their tour of the Park, August 23d, +and had arranged to set out for home early on the following morning. + +In order to understand the unfortunate turn which the affairs of these +two tourist parties were about to take, it will be necessary to +explain, in briefest outline, the cause and previous incidents of one +of the most remarkable Indian campaigns in our history. + +From the time of Lewis and Clark, the Nez Percé Indians had dwelt in +what are now the States of Oregon, Washington, and Idaho. Their +territory extended from the Salmon River on the south to the Pelouse +River on the north, and from the Bitter Root Mountains westward into +the present States of Idaho and Washington. In 1855, they ceded to the +United States a part of their territory, and the principal chiefs +located in the several portions of the remainder. In 1860, gold was +discovered on the reservation and the usual gold rush followed. The +danger of a conflict with the Indians became so great that a temporary +arrangement, pending action by the government, was made between them +and their Indian agent, opening a portion of the reservation "to the +whites in common with the Indians for mining purposes." + +But the settlers did not stop with these concessions. In defiance of +law, they built the town of Lewiston on the reservation, and gave +other proofs of their project for permanent occupancy. It soon became +necessary for the government to take some decisive step, and this was +accomplished in 1863 by a new treaty in which the Indians relinquished +three of their most important valleys, the Wallowa, the Alpowai, and +the Salmon River. + +The treaty, however, was far from receiving the general assent of all +the chiefs. A formidable faction, headed by Chiefs Joseph, Looking +Glass, Big Thunder, White Bird, and others, refused to be bound by it, +and were henceforth referred to in official reports as the "Non-treaty +Nez Percés." For a time the authorities made no effort to enforce the +new treaty, and the Indians were "tacitly permitted to roam" over +their ancient hunting-grounds. + +This condition of affairs continued for thirteen years with various +efforts in the meantime to arrive at some more satisfactory +settlement. Finally, in 1876, a civil and military commission was +appointed to visit the Nez Percé Indians, to examine into their +grievances, and to determine what measures were necessary for a +permanent settlement of the question. The report[AQ] of this +Commission is interesting, both for the facts it relates in regard to +the tribal life and characteristics of the Nez Percé Indians, and for +the heroic treatment of the long-standing troubles which it +recommends. + +[AQ] See Report of Secretary of the Interior, 1877, part 1, p. 607. +See also Appendix E, "Nez Percé Indians," etc. + +These Indians were altogether a peculiar people. The early +missionaries had converted them to the Christian faith, and, whether +from that cause, or from natural proclivity, they were among the most +religious of our Indian tribes. There is a general concensus of +authorities that, despite certain grave defects of character, they +were, mentally and morally, far above the average Indian. In later +times, approaching the period covered by this sketch, they fell under +the influence of a class of mystics called "dreamers," who taught a +doctrine of land ownership which was the immediate cause of all their +subsequent troubles. This doctrine was, in substance, that "the +'Creative Power,' when he made the earth, made no marks, no lines of +division or separation, upon it, and that it should be allowed to +remain as it is;" that it "should not be disturbed by man, and that +any cultivation of the soil, or other improvements, any voluntary +submission to the control of government," were incompatible with the +true purpose for which it was made. At bottom it was the broad +principle that no man or aggregation of men can take from other men +the right to enjoy what nature has made free for all. Why the +Commission should characterize this doctrine as "pernicious," unless a +thing is pernicious whenever it is impracticable, is not easy to +understand. From the point of view of the nomadic life of the redmen, +it is hard to conceive a theory of land tenure, or the want of it, +more nearly approaching a perfect ideal. + +Unfortunately for such a doctrine, at the point at which American +history had now arrived, it was no longer possible of realization; and +any attempt to put it in force could not result otherwise than in +failure. So it was with Joseph and his followers. The government for a +long time overlooked their infractions of the Treaty of 1863, but +finally was compelled to interfere. The Commission recommended that +the existing treaty be enforced, by military aid if necessary. The +recommendation was approved, and to General O. O. Howard fell the task +of putting the Indians on their proper reservation. + +For a time it seemed that they would be induced to submit without the +employment of active force; but just as success was apparently +assured, the Indians murdered some twenty white men, women, and +children, in revenge for one of their number killed the previous year. +Peaceful negotiations came at once to an end, and the military +authorities assumed control of the situation. This was June 13, 1877. + +Between that date and July 12th, three battles were fought, in which +both sides suffered severely, and the Indians displayed extraordinary +fighting ability. They then left their country--as it proved, not to +return--and set out across the mountains to their oft-visited "buffalo +country," in the Judith Basin, far to the eastward of the Upper +Missouri. + +But their route lay too close to the military post of Fort Missoula +and to the towns in the more thickly settled portions of Montana. They +bore off to the southward, through a country with whose people they +were well acquainted, and with whom they had often traded in previous +excursions to the buffalo country. Here they found friends and +obtained the supplies they needed. + +In the meantime, General Gibbon, with a small force, which he had +gathered from Forts Benton, Shaw, and Missoula, and from volunteers +among Montana citizens, was in close pursuit. He overtook the Indians +on the Big Hole River, in South-western Montana, where a desperate +battle ensued, in which his own force was severely handled. + +The Indians then passed south into Idaho, with Howard in pursuit, +swung around to the east, and re-crossed into Montana by way of Henry +Lake. Near Camas Creek, they had an engagement with the pursuing +troops. + +Howard arrived at Henry Lake at 8 A. M., August 23d, just as the +Indians had left. The long marches compelled him to halt at this point +for three or four days, to rest his men and replenish his supplies. +This gave the Indians a considerable start, of which, however, they +took only a leisurely advantage. Their route lay across the +Yellowstone Park, which they entered by Targhee Pass, and on the night +of August 23d they encamped on the Firehole River, in the Yellowstone +National Park, a short distance from where we left the Radersburg +tourists, and less than twenty miles from the camp of the Helena +party. The interest of the campaign for the next week centers chiefly +upon the fortunes of these unlucky excursionists. + +Before sunrise on the morning of August 24th, Arnold and Dingee, who +had got up to prepare the camp fire, saw Indians approaching. The rest +of the party were promptly aroused. The Indians at first professed to +be friendly and little alarm was felt; but the party nevertheless had +no appetite for breakfast, and immediately broke camp and started down +the river toward home. But they were soon surrounded by the increasing +number of Indians, who began to give indications that trouble was at +hand. They were told that it would be unsafe to proceed down stream +further, that the only course was to turn back with the Indians. This +they were soon forced to do. After traveling some two miles up Nez +Percé Creek, it became impossible to take the wagons further. The +horses were unhitched and the ladies mounted upon them, and in this +manner the march was resumed. At this point Mr. Frank Carpenter was +induced to hasten to the front in search of Chief Looking Glass to see +if he could not secure the party's release; but his suspicions +becoming soon aroused, he refused to go further, and returned. In +fact, it turned out later that Looking Glass was not in front at the +time and that the pretense that he was, was a mere subterfuge to aid +in scattering the party. The captives were now taken up the East Fork +of the Firehole (Nez Percé Creek) to the foot of Mary Mountain, where +a consultation with the chiefs was had. Mr. Cowan was spokesman for +the whites, and Poker Joe, who knew English well, for the Indians. The +party were here set at liberty, their horses, guns and ammunition +were taken, they were given other horses instead, and, just as the +Indians were about to resume their march, they were told to depart by +the back trail. After proceeding some three-fourths of a mile, they +were overtaken by some seventy-five young and war-painted bucks, and +were compelled to countermarch. It was about this time that two of the +party were given a hint by a friendly Indian and made their escape in +the brush. The rest continued their way back to the point where they +had been liberated and some distance beyond in the direction of Mary +Lake. Just as they reached the first sharp ascent of the mountain +about 2 P. M., in the midst of dense timber, the attack began. At the +first fire Cowan was struck in the thigh and fell from his horse. His +wife instantly rushed to his side, threw her arms around his neck, and +strenuously resisted the Indians in their further attempts to kill +him. But they partially pulled her away and an Indian shot Cowan again +in the head. He was then left for dead. + +In the meantime, Carpenter had had a narrow escape. A young Indian had +drawn his revolver upon him, when Carpenter, remembering his religion, +quickly made a sign of the cross. He was then hid by the Indians in a +clump of underbrush until the trouble was over, and was assured that +the ladies should not be harmed.[AR] + +[AR] The Indians denied that Carpenter was saved because of making a +sign of the cross although they remembered his making it. The chiefs +had strictly enjoined their followers that the whites were not to be +injured. When the few lawless bucks began the attack, some of the +other Indians interfered. Poker Joe was sent back by the chiefs for +the same purpose when they surmised what was going on. He succeeded in +preventing further trouble, and Carpenter's escape was due to this +cause. + +The other members of the party scattered promptly when the firing +began. All of them escaped to the brush, but one of them was wounded +in the attempt, and fell behind a log where he lay concealed until the +Indians had gone. + +This left Carpenter and his two sisters captive. They were taken along +with the Indians, each being lashed to a pony behind an Indian. The +captives became separated and did not see each other until ten o'clock +that night at the Indian camp near Mary Lake. The next day, August +25th, the march was resumed, and the party were taken across the +Yellowstone at the ford near Mud Geyser. Here Carpenter's fate was put +to a vote of the chiefs and by a majority of one he was given his +life. In the afternoon, the ladies were given each a pony, and, with +Carpenter, were escorted by Poker Joe back across the river. They were +then taken a mile down stream and told to depart--instructions which +they obeyed with no want of alacrity. + +Strange to say none of the party had been killed. Cowan, who had been +twice shot, and stoned also by the Indians, when they saw lingering +evidences of life, nevertheless survived. About five o'clock in the +afternoon he recovered consciousness, and drew himself up by the bow +of a tree, when lo! close behind him was another Indian with his rifle +ready to fire. He tried to get away, but the Indian fired and the ball +passed through his left hip. He now gave up hope as he fell again to +the ground. The Indian, however, did not come up. After waiting until +every one had apparently gone, Cowan crawled along till about +mid-night, seeking a place of greater safety, and then waited for +day. At daybreak he commenced crawling back toward the old camp, a +distance of eight or ten miles. He passed the abandoned wagons on the +way, where he found a dog belonging to the party. It took him four +days to reach the old camp, but once there he found matches, coffee, +and some other articles which helped him to keep alive. The day after +his arrival, he was picked up by Howard's scouts. + +Arnold, who had escaped to the brush before Cowan was shot, and had +wandered for four days until finally picked up by Howard's command +near Henry Lake, came along with the troops on the 29th, and remained +with Cowan until their arrival in Bozeman. They were taken by Howard +to near Baronett's Bridge, and then sent down the river. + +Already Carpenter and his sisters had made their way down the river, +passing close to the camp of the other party of tourists near the +Falls--whom they might have saved had they chanced to see them--and +were met by a party of soldiers under Lieutenant Schofield twelve +miles from Mammoth Hot Springs. They were escorted to the springs, +whence they went to Bottler's ranch, some distance below the Park, and +a short time afterward returned to Radersburg. It was about two weeks +before Mrs. Cowan learned that her husband was still alive. After all +these miraculous escapes, it is interesting to know that Mr. Cowan and +his wife survived to make another tour of the Park a few years later +under better conditions. + +It will not be necessary to follow in detail the fortunes of the rest +of the party. They all escaped, though with much suffering, in their +wanderings through the wilderness. + +When the captive members of the party were being marched down the +Yellowstone slope east of Mary Lake, they heard considerable firing in +the timber to their right. This is thought to have been an attack upon +two prospectors who were known to have been in the neighborhood at the +time, and who have never since been heard of. + +The party of Helena tourists in camp near the Falls of the Yellowstone +on the night of August 24th, were less fortunate than the Radersburg +party. On the morning of the 25th, they started up the river toward +the Mud Geyser. They had gone about a mile beyond Sulphur Mountain +when they discovered moving bodies of men, part of whom were fording +the river. Careful scrutiny showed them to be Indians, and the party +rightly divined that they must be the hostile Nez Percés. They hastily +retraced their steps and went into camp in the timber near the forks +of Otter Creek, about a mile and a half above the Upper Falls of the +Yellowstone. Here they remained undisturbed all day and the following +night. On the morning of the 26th, Weikert and Wilkie set out to scout +the country. They went as far as Sulphur Mountain, and finding every +thing clear, started back to camp to report. When entering the timber +just north of Alum Creek, they suddenly met a band of Indians who +promptly opened fire on them. A flight and pursuit of considerable +duration ended in the escape of both men; but not until Weikert had +been wounded. This party of Indians had just attacked and dispersed +the group in camp. They had stolen upon the camp as dinner was being +prepared, and a volley of musketry was the first warning the tourists +had of their presence. There was instant flight and most of the party +managed to get away. But Kenck was soon overtaken and killed; and +Stewart after being severely wounded, prevailed on the Indians to +spare his life. + +Weikert and Wilkie, who had hastened back to camp after their own +encounter, found every thing in confusion, and all the party gone. +They soon fell in with several of them, and together they set out for +Mammoth Hot Springs. + +And now began another series of wanderings through the trackless +wilderness of the Park. Two of the party made their way by way of the +Madison River, where they were given food by soldiers, to Virginia +City and thence to Helena. The rest of the survivors after much +hardship reached Mammoth Hot Springs, and soon after left the Park +with the exception of Weikert, Dietrich, the colored cook, Stone, and +a man named Stoner. + +On August 31st, Weikert and one McCartney, owner of the first hotel +ever built in the Park, went to the Falls of the Yellowstone in order +if possible to learn the fate of the missing members of the party. +Shortly after their departure from the Springs a band of Indians +prowled across the country from the Yellowstone to the Gardiner and +went down the latter stream as far as Henderson's Ranch near the +present town of Cinnabar. After a brief skirmish and a general pillage +here, they went back to Mammoth Hot Springs. Stoner and the colored +cook fled precipitately, but Dietrich, believing the Indians to be +friendly scouts, remained behind and was shot dead in the door of the +hotel. Stone made a lucky escape by climbing a tree, and his +subsequent ludicrous recital of his experience became a standing jest +among the inhabitants of the Yellowstone. + +Weikert and McCartney went back to the old camp on Otter Creek, where +they buried Kenck's remains and gathered up whatever of value the +Indians had left. On their way back, when on the head waters of Black +Tail Deer Creek, they met the band of Indians who had just slain +Dietrich at Mammoth Hot Springs. A lively skirmish ensued, in which +Weikert lost his horse. The two men succeeded in finding refuge in +some neighboring brushwood. + +Just as the Indians went into camp on the night of August 23d, their +first day in the Park, they captured one Shively who was on his way to +Montana from the Black Hills. As Shively professed to know the +country, which the Nez Percés had never seen before, they impressed +him into their service as guide. He was with them thirteen days and +claims to have served them faithfully, as well as to have received +fair treatment from them. At any rate he won their confidence by his +behavior, and was watched so carelessly that he escaped one dark night +just as the Indians were crossing the north-east boundary of the Park. + +As soon as the command at Henry Lake had become recuperated, the +pursuit was vigorously resumed. Howard followed in the track of the +Indians as far as to the ford of the Yellowstone; but instead of +crossing at this point, he descended the river by the left bank to +the site of Baronett's celebrated first bridge over the Yellowstone. +From the Lower Geyser Basin to this bridge a road had to be opened for +the wagons. It was a prodigious undertaking, but was performed with +astonishing rapidity under the direction of Capt. W. F. Spurgin, +Twenty-first Infantry. The bridge was found partially destroyed by the +Indians and had to be repaired, after which the line of march was +continued up the Lamar and Soda Butte Valleys, and across the divide +to the valley of Clark's Fork. + +The authorities had been widely warned of the probable route of the +Indians and were lying in wait to intercept them. Gen. Sturgis +expected to do this as they emerged from the Absaroka Mountains; but +unfortunately he stationed himself in the wrong pass and left the one +which the Indians took unguarded. By this loss of time he fell in +behind both the Indians and Howard, who was now in close pursuit. The +Indians crossed the Yellowstone September 12th. Here Sturgis overtook +them with a company of cavalry and a slight conflict ensued. The +Indians then struck north, apparently for the British line. On +September 23d they crossed the Missouri at Cow Island and resumed +their march north. But they were intercepted by Gen. Miles in the Bear +Paw Mountains and a severe fight followed, at the northern base of the +range on Snake Creek, less than thirty miles from the boundary. The +Indians were utterly defeated and Looking Glass was killed. Most of +the survivors surrendered unconditionally and the rest escaped across +the line. This was on October 5, 1877. + +Since the first outbreak, June 13th, three months and twenty-two days +had elapsed. The flight and pursuit had extended over 1,500 miles. +There had been no fewer than fifteen engagements. The whites had lost +6 officers and 121 soldiers and citizens killed, and 13 officers and +127 soldiers and citizens wounded. A large part of the Indian losses +could never be ascertained, but their known losses were 151 killed, 88 +wounded and 489 captured. + +This celebrated campaign is well intended to elicit the fullest +sympathy for the unfortunate Nez Percés. A vast deal of sentiment has +been wasted upon the cause of the red man. Opinions have ranged from +the extreme views of Catlin, who could see no wrong in the Indian, to +those of the rabid frontiersman whose creed was "no good Indian but a +dead one." But, if there ever was a case where sympathy might well +incline to the side of the Indian, it is the one under consideration. + +The Nez Percés had always been friendly to the whites, and it was +their boast that they had never slain a white man. They were +intelligent, brave, and humane. In this campaign they bought supplies +which they might have confiscated; they saved property which they +might have destroyed; they spared hundreds of lives which other +Indians would have sacrificed. If some of the more lawless element +committed various outrages, they might justly reply that the whites +had fired into their tents where their women and children were +sleeping. In short, their conduct in this campaign places them in all +respects vastly nearer the standard of civilized people than any other +of the native tribes of the continent. + +In estimating the causes that led to the war, history can not fail to +establish that the Indians were in the right. It was a last desperate +stand against the inevitable destiny which was robbing the Indian of +his empire; a final protest against the intolerable encroachments of +the pale face. In defense of this principle, the Nez Percés staked +their all on a single throw. They lost, and were irretrievably ruined. +They were transported to a distant territory, and the land of their +fathers they saw no more.[AS] + +[AS] After the surrender, Joseph and a few of his followers were sent +to Fort Leavenworth, where they remained until July, 1878, when they +were taken to the Indian Territory. After languishing here for seven +years, they were established on the Colville Reservation in +Washington. + +The campaign of 1877 was the only one in which tourists of the +National Park were ever subjected to serious danger from the Indians. +It has left its mark indelibly upon the Park. "Nez Percé Creek" will +always remind the traveler of the terrible danger in which another +party of tourists was once placed upon the borders of that stream. +"Howard's Trail" will not soon be effaced from the forests and +mountains where Captain Spurgin, with brilliant expedition, built the +first passable highway through that tangled wilderness. + + * * * * * + +In 1878, there was a slight alarm in the Park caused by an ephemeral +raid of the Bannock Indians; but, beyond the loss of a few horses, no +damage was done. + + + + +CHAPTER XIV. + +ADMINISTRATIVE HISTORY OF THE PARK. + + +The Act of Dedication of the Yellowstone National Park indicates in +clear terms the purposes for which it was created. These are: + +(1.) The preservation of its natural curiosities, its forests, and its +game. + +(2.) The reservation of its territory from private occupancy so that +it may remain in unrestricted freedom "for the benefit and enjoyment +of the people." + +(3.) The granting of such leases and other privileges as may be +necessary for the comfort and convenience of visitors. + +One grave omission in the original act, and the long-continued failure +of Congress to remedy it by subsequent legislation, in a large degree +nullified these important purposes. Strange as it may seem, for +twenty-two years, or until the spring of 1894, there was no law +defining offenses in the Park or providing a penalty for their +commission. Wanton vandalism, destruction of game, or burning of +forests, could be visited with no heavier punishment than ejection +from the Park and confiscation of "outfit." In the reports of every +Superintendent, for more than a score of years, this condition of +affairs was brought to the attention of Congress. Meanwhile there were +experienced all the evils of a license which at times was wholly +unchecked and which has never until very recently been under proper +control. + +This long-standing misfortune was aggravated by another scarcely less +serious--the failure of Congress for several years to appropriate +funds for the protection and improvement of the Park. For this +failure, however, no one can justly be held faultily responsible. The +promoters of the Park project had based extravagant expectations upon +the results to be derived from leases. They believed that the revenue +from this source would amply cover the expense of opening the +necessary highways and providing a proper police force. They did not +make due allowance, for the fact that there was at that time no +railroad within 500 miles; that the new reservation was an almost +impassable wilderness, and that the construction of roads and bridges +must necessarily precede any profitable tourist business. Neither do +they seem to have realized that these leases could not, in the nature +of things, yield a revenue commensurate with the work of opening up so +wild and extensive a country. The argument of self-support was a +mistaken one. It did an important work, however, for it is doubtful if +Congress would have created this reservation had it not believed that +no additional public burden was to be incurred thereby. + +The subsequent results of this erroneous impression were in every way +unfortunate. It was several years (1872 to 1878) before any money was +appropriated for the Park, which, in the meanwhile, was left wholly +without means for its improvement and protection. The Secretary of the +Interior might indeed publish rules and regulations for its +government, but they could avail but little so long as there was no +authority to carry them into execution. In fact, the only valuable +result of the creation of the Park during these years was the +exclusion of settlers from its territory. + +Shortly after the Park was created, the Hon. N. P. Langford was +appointed its first Superintendent. The selection was in every sense +an admirable one. Mr. Langford had been a member of the famous +Washburn Expedition, and an earnest worker in securing the Act of +Dedication. He was intimately acquainted with all phases of western +life, and was an enthusiast upon the subject of his new charge. But, +from the first, his hands were completely tied. No money was ever +allowed him for his services, nor for any other form of expenditure in +the interests of the Park. He was, therefore, powerless to accomplish +effective work. His office, which he held for about five years, was a +source of great annoyance to him; for he was frequently, and most +unjustly, charged in the public press with the responsibility for a +condition of things for which he was in no sense to blame. + +In 1877, there appeared, as Mr. Langford's successor, one of the most +unique and picturesque, as well as one of the most important, +characters in the history of the Park. This was Philetus W. Norris, of +Michigan. He was appointed immediately upon the advent of President +Hayes' administration, and held office very nearly five years, or +almost exactly the same length of time as his predecessor. + +Norris filled with varying capacity the rôles of explorer, +path-finder, poet, and historian in the Park. He was a man of +extraordinary energy, and, if not in the fullest sense a practical +man, he had at least the invaluable quality of being able to produce +results. He entered upon his new field of duty with a genuine +enthusiasm, and he was fortunate in receiving from Congress +substantial means with which to carry out his plans. + +The work of Norris' administration may be conveniently considered +under three heads: his discoveries, his road building, and his +reports. + +He was pre-eminently an explorer. He not only traveled repeatedly over +all the known trails, but he penetrated the unknown sections of the +Park in every direction. Though not the discoverer, he first made +generally known the geyser basin that bears his name. He explored and +reported upon the Hoodoo region, and first called prominent attention +to the noble cañon of the Middle Gardiner. But the most important +feature of his explorations was the study he made of the history and +antiquities of the Park. We owe more to him than to any one else for +evidence of the former presence of white men in that region. His +discoveries also in the matter of prehistoric races and of early +Indian history possess scientific value. + +In the rôle of road builder, Norris was a pioneer in the Park. Before +his time, wagons could get up the Gardiner to Mammoth Hot Springs, and +up the Madison to the Lower Geyser Basin. He opened the way direct +from Mammoth Hot Springs to the Upper Geyser Basin, from the Lower +Basin to the Yellowstone River, Lake, and Falls, and from Mammoth Hot +Springs to Tower Creek. He thus shortened the old pack-train route by +one-third, and foreshadowed the general road system which Lieutenant +Kingman later formulated into a permanent project of improvement. As a +road engineer, he was not a distinguished success. His work was +ill-conceived and poorly executed, but at the same time it gave access +to many places wholly inaccessible before. All the difference between +poor roads and none at all may justly be placed to his credit. + +The third and most important feature of Norris' work was his official +reports and other writings. As he was always doing something, although +seldom in the best way, so he was always saying something, with the +same constitutional defect. Nevertheless, he has left in his five +annual reports a great deal of useful information, which he +supplemented by a long series of articles in the _Norris Suburban_, a +paper at that time largely read throughout the West. It is not too +much to say that he was a prime mover in the strong awakening of +public sentiment in regard to the Park which began to show itself +toward the close of his administration. + +Norris' work in the Yellowstone Park can not be passed over without +praise. It left its mark, as its author did his name, in every +quarter. But one thing must be charged to his account--an almost total +failure to _protect_ the Park. He did, indeed, by his public +utterances, denounce the vandalism and game destruction that were then +rampant; but he did little in a practical way to prevent them--no +more, in fact, than his predecessor, although he was given the means. + +Norris was succeeded in February, 1882, by Patrick H. Conger, of Iowa. +Of this Superintendent, it need only be said that his administration +was throughout characterized by a weakness and inefficiency which +brought the Park to the lowest ebb of its fortunes, and drew forth +the severe condemnation of visitors and public officials alike. This +administration is an important one, however, for it marks the period +of change in public sentiment already referred to, and the +commencement of reform in the government of the reservation. + +As if the unfortunate condition of affairs due to the lack of suitable +laws for the reservation were not enough, there arose in the early +part of Superintendent Conger's administration a new and even more +formidable danger, under the euphemistic title of the Yellowstone Park +Improvement Company. Previous to this time, there had been no regular +leases in the Park. Several informal permits for occupancy had been +granted, and a small number of inferior buildings had been erected. In +1880, there were nine of these buildings, nearly all of them being +plain log-cabins, with earth roofs, of the common frontier pattern. +Only two, the headquarters building at Mammoth Hot Springs and +Marshall's Hotel in the Lower Geyser Basin, rose in dignity above the +primitive type. No one as yet thought of remaining in the Park during +the winter season. + +But it finally dawned upon certain sagacious individuals that here was +a rare opportunity to exploit the government for their private +emolument under the generous guise of improving the Park, and catering +to the comfort of the tourist. A company was accordingly formed, and a +valuable ally secured in the person of the Assistant Secretary of the +Interior, who granted a lease of 4,400 acres in tracts of about a +square mile at each of the great points of interest. It was urged in +defense of this sweeping grant, that it was hoped in that way to +secure the protection which had yet failed to be found by any other +method. It was thought that, if responsible parties could be given +exclusive control of these natural curiosities, they would, at least +from motives of self-interest, preserve them. But such a monopolistic +privilege was clearly opposed to the spirit of the Act of Dedication. +Why set apart this region for the free and unrestricted enjoyment of +the people, if the Secretary of the Interior could give to private +parties absolute control of all its most important localities? Was +this a proper interpretation of "small parcels of ground," as +specified in the act? The danger involved in this action was indeed a +grave one, and it at once aroused a storm of protest throughout the +country. + +It was about this time also that there began to appear those various +railroad and segregation projects which from that time to the present +have been a formidable menace to the continued existence of the Park. +A more extensive consideration of this particular subject is reserved +for a later chapter. + +It thus became apparent as early as 1882, that immediate and radical +measures must be adopted if the Park was to be preserved in its +original condition. General Sheridan who passed through that region in +1881, 1882, and 1883, gave forcible warning of the impending danger, +and urgently appealed to the public sentiment of the country in favor +of some action which should avert it. The Governor of Montana made an +earnest appeal to Congress. Other influential voices united in the +same cause, and already it was broadly hinted that the only salvation +of the Park lay in turning it over to the military. The whole matter +was brought prominently before the next Congress, and in March, 1883, +a clause in the Sundry Civil Bill containing the annual appropriation +for the Park, forbade the granting of leases of more than ten acres to +any single party, authorized the Secretary of the Interior to call +upon the Secretary of War for troops to patrol the Park, and provided +for the employment of ten assistant superintendents who were to +constitute a police force. Thus was the bold scheme of the Improvement +Company frustrated, and the foundation laid for the present +administrative system. The Secretary of the Interior, however, seems +not to have wished to avail himself of military assistance, and it was +several years before this provision of the law was put into operation. + +It was in this same year that the killing of birds and animals in the +Park, and the taking of fish by any other method than by hook and +line, were absolutely prohibited. Previously, hunting had been allowed +so far as was necessary to supply the wants of camping parties--a +concession that practically operated as an unrestricted license. + +The failure of Congress to enact needed legislation at length became +so nearly chronic that relief was sought in another direction. Nearly +all the territory of the Park, and all its great attractions, were +within the limits of Wyoming. Might it not therefore be within the +province of territorial legislation to furnish the necessary legal +protection? The subject was agitated, and in the winter of 1884, an +act was passed, designed "to protect and preserve the timber, game, +fish, and natural curiosities of the Park," and for other purposes. +The act was very stringent in its provisions, and clearly indicated +the deep-seated nature of the disease which it has designed to cure. +But it totally failed of its purpose. The attempt at territorial +control of what was really a national institution was in itself a +grave blunder. Then, the officials chosen to execute the law seem to +have been poorly qualified for the purpose, and to have displayed +lamentable want of tact and moderation. Some of their arrests were +so tyrannical and inexcusable, as to create universal protest. +The spectacle of the assistant superintendents--federal +officials--sharing, as informers, the fines levied by a territorial +court, was not designed to create respect for the new authority. At +length the unpopularity of the law became so extreme, that it was +repealed March 10, 1886. + +Although so unwise a measure could not stand, the first effect of its +repeal was to advertise the fact that the Park was practically without +legal protection. Matters became even worse than before. The common +verdict, as gathered from official reports and other sources, is that +the body of police, styled assistant superintendents, were notoriously +inefficient if not positively corrupt. They were, for the most part, +creatures of political favoritism, and were totally unused to the +service required of them. Commissioned as guardians of the rarest +natural wonders on the globe, they not infrequently made merchandise +of the treasures which they were appointed to preserve. Under their +surveillance, vandalism was practically unchecked, and the slaughter +of game was carried on for private profit almost in sight of the +superintendent's quarters. Already some of the rarer species of +animals had suffered a depletion in numbers from which they have +never recovered; and the prediction of Prof. Comstock, in 1874, seemed +on the point of realization, that "the zoological record of to-day" +was about to "pass into the domain of the paleontologist." + +The difficulties that beset the administration of the Park seem to +have been too great for Superintendent Conger to grapple with +successfully, and he resigned, July 28, 1884. It may at least be said +in his favor, that, weak as his management had been, no charge of +corruption or dishonesty was ever brought against him. + +In his place was appointed, August 4, 1884, Robert E. Carpenter, of +Iowa. Mr. Carpenter's views of the requirements of his office were +clear and positive; and he promptly set about to carry them into +execution. In his opinion, the Park was created to be an instrument of +profit to those who were shrewd enough to grasp the opportunity. Its +protection and improvement were matters of secondary consideration. +Instead of remaining at his post during the winter season, he went to +Washington, and there, in concert with a member of the Improvement +Company, very nearly succeeded in carrying a measure through Congress +by which important tracts upon the Reservation were to be thrown open +to private occupancy. So confident of success were these conspirators +that they even located claims upon the tracts in question, and their +names appeared on claim notices posted to designate the localities. +Fortunately the measure failed of passage, but the scandal of +Superintendent Carpenter's conduct led to his prompt removal from +office. + +On the day of his removal, May 29, 1885, Colonel David W. Wear, of +Missouri, was appointed to the vacancy. Colonel Wear appears to have +been admirably fitted for the place. He at once set out to reform the +administration of the Park, and his intelligent and vigorous measures +gave the highest encouragement to those who had been familiar with the +previous condition of affairs. But, as has often happened before, and +will often happen again, he was made to suffer for the sins of his +predecessors. The bad repute into which the government of the Park had +fallen was not easily removed, and Congress finally declined to +appropriate money for a protection which did not protect. The +Secretary of the Interior was thus compelled to call upon the +Secretary of War for assistance. The régime of civilian +superintendents passed away, and that of the military superintendents +began. The change was bitterly opposed by the Secretary of the +Interior and by all who held or hoped to hold places under the old +order; but the sequel quickly proved the wisdom of this action of +Congress. The old order necessarily felt the evil of our patronage +system of office-holding; but no single act ever went so far to +eliminate this fruitful source of misfortune as the assignment of the +administrative control of the Park to the officers and soldiers of the +army. + +August 20, 1886, marks the turning point in the administrative history +of the Reservation. It was upon that day that Captain Moses Harris, +First U. S. Cavalry, relieved the civilian Superintendent of his +duties, and soldiers supplanted the so-called assistant +Superintendents as a Park police. Henceforth an entirely new order was +to obtain. It was to be seen how much could be accomplished, even in +the absence of laws, toward a vigorous and healthful administration. +Trespassers upon the Reservation were promptly removed. The +regulations were revised and extended, printed upon cloth, and posted +in all parts of the Park; and their violation was visited with summary +punishment to the full extent of the Superintendent's authority. +Abuses of leasehold rights were searchingly inquired into and reported +to the department. As soon as this show of real authority was made +manifest, and it became apparent that here was a man who meant what he +said, a great part of the difficulty was over. Nothing in fact +conduces so much to the infraction of law as a belief in the +incompetency or dishonesty of those delegated to enforce it, and the +removal of this cause was a long step in the right direction. + +The Park was particularly fortunate in its first military +Superintendent. Captain Harris possessed in a marked degree the +qualities required for that position. He was vigorous and +uncompromising in suppressing lawlessness, just and impartial in his +rulings, and untiring in his watchfulness for the public interest. +Although his immediate superior, the Secretary of the Interior, had +strenuously opposed the installation of the military in the Park, he +never failed to pay a high tribute to the efficiency with which the +new Superintendent performed his duties. In fact, this high opinion of +Captain Harris' services was soon shared by all who were familiar with +the situation. Even _Forest and Stream_, whose fidelity to the best +interests of the Park has been a distinguishing feature of that +journal for the past fifteen years, was fain to admit, although it +had regarded the change as impolitic, that under Captain Harris' +guardianship "the Park had been cared for as it never had been +before." + +Captain Harris remained in charge for nearly three years, and was +succeeded, June 1, 1889, by Captain F. A. Boutelle, First U. S. +Cavalry. That the evil of political interference and private +intriguing was not yet wholly eliminated from the affairs of the Park +became manifest when Captain Boutelle undertook to enforce the +regulations against a prominent employe of the hotel company. For +causes not publicly understood, he was unexpectedly relieved from duty +January 21, 1891, and Captain George S. Anderson, Sixth U. S. Cavalry, +the present Superintendent, was assigned in his place. + +Going back now to the Yellowstone Park Improvement Company, the +history of that erratic concern will be briefly traced. It is +important first to state, however, that the conduct of private +business in the Park has, until recent years, been most +unsatisfactory. The Park was long unfortunate in the men who sought to +carry on business within its borders, and even yet it is not wholly +free from the evil of unscrupulous and dishonest schemers. The strife, +backbiting, struggle to ruin each other, which seemed to be the chief +purpose of those who at first sought government favors on the +Reservation, can be understood only by those who have seen them, or +have gone to the trouble to examine official correspondence. More than +once has the government made these troubles the subject of special +investigation, although generally with indifferent results. + +The new hotel company had a meteoric career, promising great things, +but effecting no permanent improvement except the partial construction +of the Mammoth Hot Springs Hotel. Its fortunes early collapsed, and +the opening of the tourist season of 1885 found the great building in +the possession of unpaid workmen, who held it under a kind of military +guard until their wages should be paid. + +This company, and other lesser concerns, gradually transferred their +rights to a new company, called the Yellowstone Park Association, +which is still in operation. It is largely identified with the +Northern Pacific Railroad, and although it has a practical monopoly of +the tourist business, it has never subjected itself to the charge of +using that monopoly to the disadvantage of the public. From the old +and unsatisfactory condition of things it has built up a hotel system +which, though incomplete, is far ahead of what could be reasonably +expected in a region so remote from the great centers of civilization. + +It was in the early part of Conger's administration that the +government took up in earnest the question of road construction. For +some years, the public, thoroughly weary of Norris' roads, had been +urging the necessity of sending an engineer officer to take charge of +that important matter. This agitation bore fruit in 1883 in the +assignment of Lieutenant D. C. Kingman, of the Corps of Engineers, to +the charge of this work. His tour of duty ran through three years, and +resulted in the greatest improvement to the road system. He prepared +the project which has served as a basis of all subsequent work, and he +did much toward carrying it into execution. His reports were +especially valuable, not only in matters connected with his +particular work, but also those pertaining to the general welfare of +the Reservation. He was among the first to lift a warning voice +against the grave danger of railroad encroachment, and no one since +his time has presented this matter in a more convincing light. + +The years 1894 and 1895 have brought a radical improvement to the +administrative status of the Park. May 4, 1894, the long desired code +of laws was enacted. On August 3d of the same year, an act was passed +further regulating the question of leases and removing the most +serious defects of previous legislation. In the autumn of the same +year, the road work was taken from the charge of a non-resident +engineer with headquarters in St. Paul, and placed in direct charge of +the Superintendent, thus bringing the entire administrative control +under a single head. + +These two years have also witnessed a decided check to the schemes of +those who still persist in believing that the Park was created for +their personal aggrandizement. Strong adverse reports have been +submitted, practically for the first time, by Congressional Committees +against the so-called Segregation project, the admission of railroads +into the Park, and the construction of an electric railway therein. + +With the exception of the lack of a sufficient force of scouts +properly to patrol that region, the condition of affairs on the +Reservation is now eminently satisfactory--far more so than at any +previous period. + + + + +CHAPTER XV. + +THE NATIONAL PARK PROTECTIVE ACT. + + +One of the most important milestones in the history of the Park has +been so recently set that the public is as yet not fully conscious of +its existence. It has already been stated that for more than twenty +years the Park was wholly without adequate statutory protection; and +that this long-standing defect was finally remedied by the enactment +of a comprehensive measure in the spring of 1894. The circumstances +attending the passage of this Act, and the prompt manner in which a +great misfortune was changed into a lasting benefit, form one of those +singular instances of good fortune which have so largely characterized +the history of this region. + +Bills providing suitable protection for the Park were introduced at +the First Session of the Fifty-third Congress, just as they have been +for the past twenty years, and apparently with not much greater chance +of success. The wanton recklessness of those who seek special +privileges in the Park, and are unwilling that any measure for its +welfare shall pass unless coupled with their own private schemes, +threatened this time, as hitherto, to defeat Congressional action. But +an unforeseen event, of such powerful bearing as practically to +override all opposition, occurred in March, 1894, and quickly brought +about the desired consummation. + +It is well known that the only herd of bison, now roaming in their +native condition within the present limits of the United States, is in +the Yellowstone National Park. There has always been a lively interest +in the preservation of this herd, and its extinction would be regarded +as a deplorable calamity. With proper protection, it will undoubtedly +flourish, but there is no margin for carelessness or neglect. + +During the winter of 1894, Captain George S. Anderson, U. S. A., +Superintendent of the Park, learned that snow-shoe tracks had been +seen along Astringent Creek in the Pelican Valley east of the +Yellowstone River, in territory ranged over by the buffalo in winter. +The same tracks were seen near Soda Butte station pointing toward +Cooke City. Inquiry proved them to have been made by one Howell, a +well-known poacher and lawless character, who was evidently driving +his trade in the winter buffalo country. It was apparent that he had +left the Park for supplies and would soon return. Captain Anderson +accordingly laid his plans for capture. + +There has been given a brief account of the winter expedition through +the Park in the spring of 1894, of which Mr. F. J. Haynes and Scout +Burgess were members. Burgess was instructed to examine the country +east of the Yellowstone and obtain, if possible, a clue to Howell's +whereabouts. Early on the morning of March 12th, he set out from the +Lake hotel with a single companion, Private Troike, of the Sixth +Cavalry, and before it was scarcely daylight struck a dim snow shoe +trail in the valley of Astringent Creek. Soon after, he found the +poacher's teepe and a number of buffalo heads hung up, by means of a +pulley, to the limb of a tree so as to be out of the reach of wolves. +Every thing indicated that the poacher was there for a business of +some duration and magnitude. + +Leaving the teepe and following Howell's morning trail for some +distance, Burgess' attention was soon arrested by six rifle reports. +These six shots slew five buffalo. Burgess soon discovered Howell, +engaged in skinning the head of one of the buffalo. His rifle was +leaning against another some fifteen feet from him. A dog (but this +Burgess did not know) was coiled up under the leg of a buffalo. +Burgess thus had the dangerous duty to perform of crossing the +intervening space of some four hundred yards, where there was no cover +and where he might easily be seen by Howell or the dog. Considering +the desperate character of these poachers, and the fact that Burgess +was armed only with a revolver as against Howell's rifle, the peril +involved in this capture may be easily appreciated. But fortune was on +Burgess' side. A heavy storm was on, and the wind was blowing direct +from Howell to Burgess. This prevented the dog from scenting approach, +and Howell from hearing any noise, from the leeward. Burgess did not +stop to reckon the chances of success, but promptly sallied forth upon +his intended victim. On his way he ran upon an open ditch about ten +feet wide. To make a snow shoe jump on level ground is a feat of much +difficulty; but Burgess managed to accomplish it. By good fortune +nothing happened to arouse Howell, and Burgess got within fifteen feet +of him before he was aware that there was any one within as many +miles. With Burgess' cocked revolver over him, he discreetly +surrendered. Private Troike was summoned, the rifle and accoutrements +were seized, and the party set out at once for the Lake hotel. But +such are the difficulties of snow shoe travel in this region, that it +was long after dark before they reached their destination. + +The Yellowstone Park Association keeps a solitary watchman at each of +its hotels during winter, and has a telephone line connecting each +with Mammoth Hot Springs. By virtue of this lucky fact, Howell's +capture, though made some sixty miles from the nearest telegraph +station, and in a region where winter travel is impossible except on +snow shoes, was made known to the Superintendent before 9:30 P. M. +that day. By another stroke of good fortune a representative of +_Forest and Stream_ was at that moment present at Mammoth Hot Springs. +He had arrived but two days before and remained a guest of the +Superintendent prior to a tour of the Park, which began two days +later. The news of Howell's capture was at once put on the wire, and +in less that twenty-four hours, _Forest and Stream_ was represented in +Washington with a new and powerful argument for the passage of the +Offenses Bill. The imminent danger of the speedy and entire extinction +of the only remaining herd of buffalo in the country produced the +desired effect in Congress, and on May 7, 1894, the bill became a law. + +It was throughout a most fortunate combination of circumstances that +made this consummation possible. A Superintendent thoroughly devoted +to the care of his important charge, and fearless in the execution of +his duty; a scout who had the nerve to make an arrest full of peril to +himself; the existence of a winter telephone line to the heart of that +inaccessible region; the presence at Mammoth Hot Springs of a +representative of that journal which holds first rank among the +protectors of the Park; and uncommon good, luck in minor details, +caused this important event to cast its influence into the national +councils almost before the echo of the poacher's rifle shots had died +away among the mountains. Howell's act was a misfortune--a grievous +misfortune--to the game interests of the Park; but its immediate +result in legislation will prove a benefit of far greater consequence. + +Howell was brought to Mammoth Hot Springs and was there imprisoned in +the Fort Yellowstone guardhouse, and his case reported to Washington. +As there was no law for his trial and punishment, the Secretary of the +Interior in due time ordered his release. He was accordingly put out +of the Park and forbidden to return without permission. But with his +habitual disregard of authority, he came back during the following +summer and was discovered by the Superintendent in a barber's chair at +Mammoth Hot Springs Hotel. He was promptly arrested and tried under +the new law for violating the orders of the Superintendent in +returning. He was convicted and sentenced to one month's imprisonment +and fifty dollars fine. He thus became the Park Haman--first to be +hanged upon the gallows of his own building. + +Howell appealed the case to the U. S. District Court sitting at +Cheyenne, Wyoming, and was released upon the technical ground that, as +the prohibition against returning to the Park was merely an order from +the Superintendent, and not explicitly authorized by the regulations +of the Secretary of the Interior, the offense did not come within the +purview of the law. This defect in the regulations has since been +remedied and the conviction of Howell, therefore, notwithstanding his +final release, has all the force of precedent. + + + + +PART II.--Descriptive. + + + + +CHAPTER I. + +BOUNDARIES AND TOPOGRAPHY. + + +At the time when the bill creating the Yellowstone Park was before +Congress there had been no detailed survey of that region, and the +boundaries, as specified in the bill, were to some extent random +guesses. The exploring parties of 1870 and 1871 had seen all the more +important points of interest. To include these in the proposed +reservation, the framers of the bill passed two lines due east and +west, one through the junction of the Yellowstone and Gardiner Rivers, +and one through a point ten miles south of the most southerly point of +the Yellowstone Lake; and two lines due north and south, one through a +point ten miles east of the easternmost point of Yellowstone Lake, and +one through a point fifteen miles west of the most westerly point of +Shoshone (then called Madison) Lake. The nearly rectangular area thus +resulting was found to lie mainly in the north-west corner of Wyoming, +with narrow strips, two or three miles wide, overlapping into the +Territories of Montana and Idaho. The mean dimensions of the +Reservation were 61.8 miles by 53.6 miles, giving an area of 3312.5 +square miles. + +By presidential proclamation, dated September 10, 1891, a large area +to the east and south of the Park was set apart as a Forest Reserve, +under the provisions of an Act of March 3, 1891, and was placed in +charge of the Superintendent of the Park. By this action the area +reserved from settlement around the sources of the Yellowstone was +increased to about 5,000 square miles. It should be remembered, +however, that this additional reserve is not a direct creation by Act +of Congress, and it therefore does not stand upon the same substantial +footing as the original Reservation. + +The chief topographical features of the Park are as follows: + + +DRAINAGE AREAS. + +Three great rivers receive the waters of the Yellowstone Park--the +Yellowstone, the Missouri, and the Snake. The first two rivers are on +the Atlantic slope; the third is on the Pacific slope. The areas +drained by them are approximately: + + By the Yellowstone. 1,900 square miles. + By the Missouri, 730 square miles. + By the Snake, 682 square miles. + +The Yellowstone River has its source in the snow drifts of Yount Peak, +twenty-five miles south-east of the Park. It enters the Reservation +six miles west of the south-east corner; crosses it in a direction +somewhat west of north, and leaves it at a point about nineteen miles +east of the north-west corner. Near the center of the Park it flows +through the celebrated lake of the same name, and further north passes +through two remarkable cañons before it leaves the Reservation. Its +principal tributaries within the Park are the Lamar River (commonly +called the East Fork), from the east, and Gardiner River from the +west. The Lamar River rises nearly due east of the outlet of +Yellowstone Lake and flows north-westerly, joining the main stream +near Junction Butte. Its principal tributary is Soda Butte Creek, +which rises just outside the north-east corner of the Park and joins +the Lamar River near the extinct hot spring cone from which it derives +its name. + +Gardiner River is the second largest tributary of the Yellowstone, and +drains the extensive area between the Washburn and Gallatin Mountains. + +The low-water discharge of the Yellowstone River, as measured by the +writer, in 1891, a little below the lake outlet, is 1,598 cubic feet +per second; as measured by the United States Geological Survey, in +1886, 1,525 cubic feet. The discharge at the north boundary of the +Park can not be less than 2,000 cubic feet. + +The Missouri River drainage flows into the Gallatin and Madison forks +of that stream. The Gallatin drains only a small area in the extreme +north-west corner of the Park. The Madison is formed by the junction +of the Gibbon and Firehole Rivers, about twelve miles east of the west +boundary of the Park. The Gibbon takes its rise a few miles west of +the Falls of the Yellowstone, and flows in a south-west direction. The +Firehole rises in Madison Lake, and flows north to its junction with +the Gibbon. Its principal tributaries are the Little Firehole River +and Iron Creek on the west, and Nez Percé Creek on the east. + +The Snake River drains the south-west portion of the Park. It rises +about fifteen miles south of Yellowstone Lake, just outside the Park. +It then takes a northerly circuit into the Park, receiving the waters +of Hart and Lewis Rivers, and leaves the Reservation just north of +Jackson Lake. Its principal tributary is the Lewis River, which drains +Shoshone and Lewis Lakes. Several large streams, Bechler and Falls +Rivers among them, cross the south-west boundary of the Park and join +the main Snake further south. + +The line of separation between this water-shed and those of the +Yellowstone and the Missouri, is the Continental Divide, the irregular +course of which can be readily understood by consulting the map. + +In the entire Park there are about thirty-six named lakes with a total +area of nearly 165 square miles. Of these lakes, twenty-one, with an +area of 143 square miles, are on the Yellowstone slope; eight, with an +area of perhaps two square miles, are on the Missouri slope; and +seven, with an area of about twenty square miles, are on the Snake +River slope. The four principal lakes--Yellowstone, Shoshone, Lewis, +and Hart--are clustered near the Continental Divide at its lowest +point, the first being on the Atlantic slope, and the others on the +Pacific. + +There are upon the various streams of the Park no fewer than +twenty-five interesting water-falls, where the streams descend from +the Park plateau to the lower surrounding country. + + +MOUNTAIN SYSTEM + +As the Yellowstone River is the most important stream in the Park, so +the Absaroka Range, in which it has its source, is the most important +mountain system. It extends north and south along the entire eastern +border. To the south it is prolonged under the name of the Sierra +Shoshone Mountains as far as the Wind River Valley, while north of +Soda Butte Creek it extends to the Great Bend of the Yellowstone under +the name Snowy Range. The various larger summits are remarkably +uniform in elevation. From Index Peak on the north to Yount Peak on +the south, there are more than thirty named mountains with an average +altitude of 10,400 feet. The variation from this mean is slight. The +range, throughout its length, is full of noble views, and, as seen +from across the Yellowstone Lake, is one of the finest exhibitions of +mountain scenery on the continent. + +The next most important range is the Gallatin, situated in the +north-west corner of the Park, at the head of the Gallatin River. It +has about seventeen named peaks, with an average altitude of 9,800 +feet. The highest peak, Electric, is the loftiest mountain in the +Park. + +The Washburn Range, a detached mountain system, originally known as +the "Elephant's Back," is situated between the Grand Cañon of the +Yellowstone and the Gardiner River. It has seven christened summits, +with an average altitude of 9,800 feet. The most conspicuous peak of +the range, as well as the most noted mountain of the Park, is Mt. +Washburn. + +The Red Mountain Range is a small, detached group of mountains between +Hart and Lewis Lakes. Its principal summit, Mt. Sheridan, affords +probably the finest view to be had in that entire region. + +The Teton Range lies mainly outside the Park, its northern spurs +barely touching the southern boundary. It extends north and south +along the west shore of Jackson Lake, and is a very noted range of +mountains. Its highest summit, the Grand Teton, has no competitor for +altitude nearer than Fremont Peak, seventy-five miles distant. + +The Big Game Ridge lies along the south boundary of the Park, and is +the source of the Snake River. It has six named peaks, with an average +altitude of 9,800 feet. + +Besides these various groups of mountains, there are a few detached +peaks worthy of note, which can not be conveniently classified with +any of the principal ranges. + + +PLATEAUS. + +A considerable portion of the Park area is composed of what may be +termed plateaus, elevated tracts of land, not so high as the mountain +ranges, but much higher than the valleys. Ordinarily, these are to be +found along the divides between the larger streams. The more important +are the Pitchstone Plateau, between the Snake River and the head +waters of the Bechler and Fall Rivers, with a mean altitude of 8,500 +feet; Highland Plateau, between the Yellowstone and the Madison +Rivers, altitude 8,300 feet; Mirror Plateau, between the Yellowstone +and the Lamar Rivers, altitude 9,000 feet; Mt. Everts Plateau, between +the Yellowstone and the Gardiner, altitude 7,000 feet; and the Madison +Plateau, west of the Lower Geyser Basin, altitude 8,300 feet. + + +VALLEYS. + +These form an exceedingly important part of the Park topography. The +largest is Junction Valley, including its branches along the +Yellowstone and the Lamar Rivers. It is an extensive, grassy tract, +stretching well back upon the mountain sides, and forming a fine +pasturage for game. For scientific research, its fossil forests and +other features make it an extremely interesting section. + +Hayden Valley is the next in size and importance, and occupies an +important tract along the Yellowstone River, between the Lake and +Falls, mostly on the west side, in the vicinity of Alum Creek. + +The Madison Valley, and its extensions up the Firehole and Gibbon +Rivers, are chiefly noteworthy as being the locality of the three +great geyser regions of the Park. + +The Swan Lake Flats, Willow Park, the Shoshone and Falls River Basins, +are other important examples of typical mountain valleys. + + +ALTITUDES. + +The lowest point in the Park is at the junction of the Yellowstone and +the Gardiner Rivers, 5,360 feet above sea level; the highest is the +summit of Electric Peak, six miles distant, 11,155 feet. To give a +general idea of the altitudes of different points in the Park, +particularly of those which the tourist visits, the following list is +presented:[AT] + + Gardiner, Mont. 5,400 feet. + Mammoth Hot Springs hotel 6,215 " + Glen Creek Bridge above Golden Gate 7,245 " + Indian Creek Bridge 7,275 " + Beaver Lake 7,360 " + Norris Road Junction 7,470 " + Gibbon Meadows 7,315 " + Gibbon and Firehole Rivers, junction of 6,780 " + Lower Geyser Basin (mouth of Nez Percé Creek) 7,125 " + Upper Geyser Basin (near Castle Geyser) 7,300 " + Mouth of Spring Creek 7,600 " + Isa Lake, Continental Divide 8,300 " + Yellowstone Lake 7,741 " + Road at Mud Volcano 7,705 " + Cañon Hotel 7,850 " + Junction Valley near Yancey's 6,150 " + Divide between the Black-tail and Gardiner 6,550 " + +[AT] From profile of road system. For additional elevations, see list +of names in Appendix A. + + +SCENERY. + +The mountain scenery of the Park is not so imposing as that of +Colorado and some other parts of the Rocky Mountain region; but it is +more varied and beautiful. The eye is not wearied with the constant +sight of vast and bare mountain cliffs, but finds relief in attractive +lakes, streams, glades, parks, forests, and every combination of +effects that helps to produce a beautiful landscape. + + + + +CHAPTER II. + +Geology of the Park. + + +Nature seems, from the first, to have designed this region for a +mountain park. In geological chronology it was near the close of the +Cretaceous Period, that the lifting of the great mountain systems of +the West into their present positions was practically finished. In the +formation of these mountains, the general outline of the Yellowstone +Park was already marked out, probably in much more striking features +than at present. A vast rim of mountains, visible now in the Absaroka, +Snowy, Gallatin, Teton, and Snake River Ranges, hemmed in the +extensive area which has since become so famous. Subsequent events +have greatly modified its original form, but the grand outlines at +first determined are still distinctly visible. + +In the Tertiary Period, which was next in order of time after the +Cretaceous, changes of the greatest importance occurred, consisting +principally in the outpouring of enormous masses of volcanic material. +The origin of these lava flows has been traced to a few craters, one +of which was near Mt. Washburn, another in the Red Mountain Range, and +a third near the sources of the Lamar River. Mt. Washburn has long +been recognized as part of the rim of an ancient volcano. Both it and +Mt. Sheridan, the two mountains which bore the principal part in +working out the present features of that country, still remain the +most prominent peaks from which the modern visitor can contemplate +the work they have performed. + +The outpourings at first consisted of andesitic lavas. They largely +changed the appearance of the mountain ranges and to some extent +filled up the interior basin. The flows were not continuous but were +separated by long intervals of quiet, during which vegetation and the +agencies of erosion were actively at work. + +After the cessation of the andesitic eruptions, a quiescent period of +great length ensued. Then came the period of rhyolitic flows, the +centers of volcanic activity being as before Mts. Washburn and +Sheridan. These flows built up the present Park plateau, and +constitute the great bulk of the rocks which the tourist now sees. + +Following the period of rhyolitic eruptions, orographic agencies were +active in producing extensive faults or displacements, which in +certain localities radically changed the relative positions of the +rocks. + +The last exhibitions of volcanic energy were in the form of basaltic +eruptions. These took place in part through ordinary volcanic craters, +and in part through cracks or seams in the rocks, where they may still +be seen forming extensive dykes. The basalt is of relatively limited +extent, but its striking and picturesque forms wherever it appears +make it more interesting to the tourist than any of the other rocks. + +The great variety of superficial appearances which these volcanic +rocks have assumed makes the Park one of the best laboratories in the +world for their study. + +The continuance of these various outpourings doubtless extended into +Quaternary time. Then came the Glacial Epoch, the epoch of +wide-spread ice-carving, which still further modified the surface of +the country. The paths of the ancient glaciers have in several +instances been made out and their transported material may readily be +distinguished. One glacier flowed from the Gallatin Range eastward +across Terrace Mountain, where it joined another moving westwardly +from the Absaroka Range. The united streams continued down the +Gardiner and Yellowstone Valleys, in which vast masses of drift still +mark their ancient route. + +Glacial action and the common agents of denudation have given the Park +country its present general aspect. These later modifications have +indeed been extensive, and the great variety of form now seen in the +valleys, cañons and hills is the result of their combined action. The +Yellowstone Cañon is a marked example of erosion on a large scale. A +direct result of its formation was the partial draining of Yellowstone +Lake, which had previously existed at a much higher level than now, +and spread over the entire area of the present Hayden Valley. + +Since the cessation of the basaltic lava flows there seem to have been +no further lava outpourings in this region. The old volcanoes have +been long extinct and their craters have been modified almost beyond +recognition. But evidences of the power which once worked beneath them +are still abundant, although no longer on so imposing a scale. It is +the hot springs and geysers still in existence which partly render +this region so widely celebrated. That this thermal action originates +mainly in the same source of energy which once poured out the vast +fields of lava, there is no reason to doubt. Many plausible +explanations are advanced to account for the existence of subterranean +heat, but whatever may be its real origin it is doubtless the same for +both classes of phenomena. + +The action which is now observable has continued in an ever-decreasing +degree since the close of the lava period. Over vast tracts of the +Park plateau, the rocks are entirely decomposed to unknown depths by +the ascending superheated vapors. Some idea of the extent of this +action may be obtained at the Grand Cañon, which has cut its way a +thousand feet downward into the decomposed volcanic rock without yet +reaching its bottom. The infinite variety of chemic products resulting +from this decomposition has given the Cañon its wonderful coloration. + +The same condition largely prevails over the Park plateau. Where now +are dense forests and no superficial evidence of unusual conditions, +there will frequently be found, by digging beneath the surface, the +familiar proof that thermal activity once prevailed there. In +constructing the tourist route from the Upper Geyser Basin to the +Yellowstone Lake, where for nearly the whole distance there is a +complete absence of hot springs, the evidences of former volcanic +activity were found to be abundant. + +Facts like these clearly demonstrate that, from a geologic standpoint, +thermal activity in the Park is gradually becoming extinct; and many +persons, taking alarm at this evidence, imagine that the unique +phenomena of the Yellowstone are of an evanescent character, and that +the time is not far remote when they will be known only as matters of +history. There is, however, no occasion for such misgiving. The +present condition is the result of processes that run back probably +for millions of years; certainly for periods of time compared with +which recorded history is insignificant. The same rate of progress +would produce no perceptible change in the lifetime of an individual. + +Some who have visited the geyser regions more than once assert that, +after an interval of several years, they observe a marked diminution +in thermal activity. But this is probably because a second visit +ordinarily makes a less vivid impression than a first. The weight of +reliable evidence is certainly the other way. Mr. David E. Folsom, +leader of the Expedition of 1869, made a tour of the Park during the +present season of 1895. He says: "I had a very vivid recollection of +all I saw twenty-six years ago, and I note no important change." +Professor Arnold Hague, probably the best living authority upon the +scientific features of the Park, has compared the hot springs and +geysers by means of authentic records covering intervals of several +years, and he declares that he finds "no diminution in the intensity +of action or in the amount of discharge from the springs and geysers, +since they have been subject to careful observation." While it is +certain that springs are constantly becoming inactive, it is no less +certain that others replace them, and it may be confidently assumed +that the progress toward ultimate extinction will be inappreciable in +our time or for many generations to come. + +The distribution of thermal springs over the surface of the earth is +probably more general than is commonly supposed. Only one extensive +area is practically without them, and that is the Continent of +Australia. Africa, also, has very few. But in other parts of the +globe they are found almost without number, ranging from the Equator +to the Arctic Circle, and from sea-level to the lofty table lands of +Thibet. + +The three localities, however, in which they abound in such numbers +and magnitude as to attract marked attention are, in the order of +their discovery, Iceland, New Zealand, and the Yellowstone National +Park. In extent, variety, and magnitude of accompanying phenomena, and +in geologic age, the above order is reversed. Iceland has probably the +most famous geyser in the world, principally because it was for a long +time the only known geyser, and consequently received a great deal of +scientific attention; but judging from published descriptions it is +clearly inferior to several now known in the Firehole Geyser Basin. + +Three notable features of similarity in these geyser regions are the +presence of volcanic rocks of remote or recent origin; proximity to +the earth's surface of active sources of subterranean heat; and the +presence of a great number of lakes. In all three cases, lava, heat +and water are the characteristic geologic and physical accompaniments +of those particular phenomena which will now be described more in +detail. + + + + +CHAPTER III. + +GEYSERS. + + +The hot springs of the Yellowstone National Park may be roughly +divided into two classes, eruptive and non-eruptive. To the first the +term _geyser_ is applied, while the term _hot springs_ is restricted +to the second. These two classes pass into each other by insensible +gradations and the line of demarcation it is not possible to draw. The +following description will pertain only to those examples about which +there is no doubt, and which may be taken as types of their class. + +A geyser may be defined as a periodically eruptive hot spring. The +name, as might be expected, is of Icelandic origin, and comes from the +verb _geysa_, _to gush_. The general characteristics of a true geyser, +as illustrated by the most perfect example known, Old Faithful in the +Yellowstone Park, are the following: + +(1.) There is an irregular tube descending from the earth's surface to +some interior source of heat. + +(2.) The mouth of this tube may be either a self-built mound or cone +(as in the example), or simply an open pool. + +(3.) Into this tube meteoric water finds its way and is subjected to +the action of heat. + +(4.) The result is an eruption and expulsion of the water from the +tube with more or less violence. + +(5.) The eruption is generally preceded by slight preliminary +upheavals leading gradually to the final outburst. + +(6.) After cessation of the eruption there is usually a considerable +escape of steam. + +(7.) A quiescent period, generally of indeterminate duration, follows +during which the conditions necessary for an eruption are reproduced. + +Geyser phenomena have attracted a great deal of scientific attention, +and many theories have been advanced to explain them. Passing over for +the present the various less important views, attention will first be +given to Bunsen's theory, because it is, upon the whole, the most +satisfactory explanation yet advanced. This theory was a direct +deduction from observations upon the Great Geyser of Iceland, and has +been experimentally illustrated by artificial examples. + +The fundamental principle upon which it is based is the well known +fact that the temperature of the boiling point of water varies with +the pressure to which the water is subjected. At the sea level, under +the pressure of one atmosphere (fifteen pounds to the square inch), +the boiling point is about 212 degrees Fahrenheit. Under a pressure of +two atmospheres it is 250 degrees; of three, 275 degrees; of four, 293 +degrees, and so on. At an altitude like that of the Park plateau, +where the atmospheric pressure is much less than at sea level, the +normal boiling point is about 198 degrees, but the law of variation +due to pressure conditions applies exactly as in lower altitudes. + +If water, subjected to great pressure, be heated to a temperature +considerably above that of its normal boiling point, and if then the +pressure be suddenly relieved, it will almost instantaneously be +converted into steam; a fact which always operates to enhance the +danger from the explosion of steam boilers. Applying this principle +to the case of an ordinary geyser, it will readily be seen that in the +long irregular tube descending to great depths there are present the +necessary conditions for subjecting the water to great pressure. At +the surface the pressure is that of the weight of the atmosphere +corresponding to the altitude; at a certain depth below (33 feet at +the sea level, but less at higher altitudes) it is twice as great; at +double this depth three times as great, and so on. + +Suppose, now, that there is an interior heat at some point along the +geyser tube well below the surface. The boiling point of water in the +vicinity of the heat supply will be higher than at the surface in +definite relation to its distance down. If the tube be of large +diameter and the circulation quite free, the water will never reach +this point, for it will rise nearer the top, where the boiling point +is lower and will pass off in steam. The spring will thus be simply a +boiling or quiescent spring. But if the tube be comparatively small +and if the circulation be in any way impeded, the temperature at the +source of heat will rise until it reaches a boiling point +corresponding to its depth. Steam will result, and will rise through +the water, gradually increasing the temperature in the upper portions +of the tube. After a time the water throughout the entire tube becomes +heated nearly to the boiling point and can no longer condense the +steam rising from below; which then rapidly accumulates until its +expansive power is great enough to lift the column above and project +some of the water from the basin or cone. This lessens the weight of +the column and relieves the pressure at every point. In places where +the water had been just below the boiling point, it is now above, and +more steam is rapidly produced. This throws out more water, still +further lightens the column, and causes the generation of more steam, +until finally the whole contents of the tube are ejected with terrific +violence. + +From this explanation it is apparent that any thing which impedes the +circulation of water in the geyser tube will expedite the eruption. +The well-known effect of "soaping geysers" may thus be accounted for. +As oil thrown upon waves gives a viscosity to the surface, which +greatly moderates their violence, so does the addition of soap or lye +make the water of the geyser tube less free to circulate, and thus +hasten the conditions precedent to an eruption. + +The apparently contrary process of violently agitating the water of +the geyser, as by stirring it with a stick, sometimes produces the +same effect; but this results from the sudden forcing upward of masses +of superheated water, instead of allowing them to rise and gradually +cool. + +That Bunsen's theory really explains the phenomena of geyser action +there can be little doubt. It is true that in no single geyser does +one find a perfect example of the theory. But it must be remembered +that typical conditions probably never exist. The point of application +of heat; the mode of application, whether from the heated surface of +rocks or from superheated steam issuing into the tube; the diameter +and regularity of the tube; the point of inflow of the cold water; are +all matters which influence the eruption and determine its character. +In the endless variety of conditions in nature one need not wonder at +the varying results. He should rather wonder that in a single instance +nature has produced a combination of such perfection as is found in +Old Faithful, which, for thousands of years has performed its duty +with the regularity of clock work. + +There are various other theories, each with some particular merit, +which may be briefly referred to. Sir George Mackenzie, who visited +Iceland in 1810-11, thought the geyser tube at some point beneath the +surface curved to one side and then upward, communicating with a +chamber in the immediate vicinity of the source of heat. The water in +this chamber becomes heated above the boiling point, and, expanding, +forces the water from the chamber into the tube until the chamber is +finally emptied to the level of the mouth of the tube. Any further +expulsion of water lessens the weight of the column of water above. +Bunsen's theory comes into play, and with the accumulated pressure of +the steam in the chamber, produces a violent eruption. + +Prof. Comstock, who visited the Park in 1873, thought that there were +two chambers, the lower being in contact with the source of heat, and +the upper acting as a sort of trap in the geyser tube. After a +sufficient force of steam has accumulated in the lower chamber, it +ejects the contents of the chamber above. + +S. Baring-Gould, who visited Iceland in 1863, observed that if a tube +be bent into two arms of unequal length, the shorter of which is +closed, and if the tube be filled with water and the shorter arm then +heated, all the characteristic phenomena of geyser action result, the +water being finally ejected, with explosive violence from the longer +tube. + +Now, it is probable that in nature each of these theories may find +illustration, but it must still be acknowledged that in all cases +Bunsen's theory is the partial explanation, and in many the only +adequate one. + +The most superficial examination of the geysers in the Park will +disclose two widely different characteristics as regards their +external appearance and mode of eruption. On this basis they may be +divided into two classes--the fountain geysers and the cone geysers. + +In the fountain geyser there is no cone or mound, but in its place a +considerable pool which in intervals of rest bears perfect resemblance +to the larger quiescent springs. The eruption generally consists of a +succession of prodigious impulses by which vast quantities of water +are thrown up one after another. There is ordinarily no continuous +jet. To geysers of this class, Mackenzie's and Comstock's theories +would seem to find closer application than to any others. Noted +examples are the Fountain, the Great Fountain, the Grand and the +Giantess Geysers. + +The cone geysers, on the other hand, have no pool about the crater, +and water is not generally visible in the tube. There is always a +self-built cone or mound of greater or less prominence, ranging from a +broad gently-sloping mound, like that of Old Faithful, to a huge cone +like that of the Castle. The eruptions from these geysers usually take +the form of a continuous jet, and are more in accordance with the +theory of Bunsen. Prominent examples are the Giant, the Castle, Old +Faithful, the Lone Star, and the Union. + +[Illustration: _Terry Engr. Co._ + + _U. S. Geological Survey of the Territories._ + +Cone of the Giant Geyser.] + +[Illustration: _Terry Engr. Co._ + + _First sketch ever made._[AU]--_Trumbull._ + +Cone of Giant Geyser.] + +[AU] This sketch and a similar one of the Castle Geyser cone and two +of the Yellowstone Falls are the _very first_ ever made of these +objects. They were made in 1870 by Walter Trumbull, a member of the +Washburn Party, and by Private Charles Moore, one of the escort under +Lieutenant Doane. Moore was a man of excellent education and +considerable culture, and it was a matter of comment among the members +of the Expedition that he should be content with the condition of a +private soldier. His quaint sketches of the Falls forcibly remind one +of the original picture of Niagara made by Father Hennepin in 1697. + +An interesting and singular fact pertaining to this region is that in +most cases the springs and geysers have no underground connection with +each other. Water in contiguous pools stands at different levels, and +powerful geysers play with no apparent effect upon others near by. + +It is another interesting question to know whence comes the water for +these geysers and hot springs. Into the hidden caverns of "Old +Faithful" flow nearly a million of gallons per hour. This is a large +stream, but it is a mere trifle compared with the entire outflow of +hot water throughout the Park. The subterranean passages by which the +necessary supply is furnished to all these thousands of springs, +certainly constitute the most intricate and extensive system of +water-works of which there is any knowledge. + +Not least wonderful of the features of the great geysers are the +marvelous formations which surround them, more exquisitely beautiful +than any production of art. They are really much handsomer than those +to be found around the ordinary quiescent springs. The falling or the +dashing of the hot water seems to be in some way essential to the +finest results. To say that these rocky projections simulate +cauliflower, sponge, fleeces of wool, flowers or bead-work, conveys +but a feeble hint of their marvelous beauty. It is indeed a most +interesting fact that nature here produces in stone, by the almost +mechanical process of deposition from cooling water, the identical +forms elsewhere produced by the very different processes of animal and +vegetable life. + +[Illustration: + + _Terry Engr. Co._ _U. S. Geological Survey of the Territories._ + +Specimens of Geyserite.] + +These formations are all silica and are of flinty hardness. Bunsen, +and Prof. Le Conte following him, assert it to be a rule that the +presence of silica in the water is essential to the development of a +geyser. In one sense this is true, and in another it is not. Should +the heated waters find a ready-made tube, like a fissure in solid +rock, this would serve for a geyser tube as well as any other. The +Monarch Geyser, in Norris Geyser Basin, seems to have originated in +this way. But in the general case, geyser tubes are built up, not +found ready made. In such cases silica is an indispensable ingredient +of the water. A calcareous deposit, like that at Mammoth Hot Springs, +would lack strength to resist the violent strain of an eruption. So it +is found to be a fact that silica is the chief mineral ingredient in +the water of all important geysers. + + + + +CHAPTER IV. + +HOT SPRINGS. + + +Under this general head will be included all thermal phenomena of the +Park, except the geysers. The term will cover the quiescent springs, +the boiling springs, the mud springs, or "paint pots," and the steam +vents and fumaroles. + +The quiescent spring seems to stand at the opposite pole from the +geyser. The conditions are such that the water nowhere reaches a +temperature sensibly above the boiling point. The surface therefore +steams quietly away, unruffled except by the passing breeze. + +The great attraction of these springs is in the inimitable coloring of +the water. It is not simply the beautiful green or blue of great +depths of clear water. In no ordinary pool can one find all the colors +of the spectrum, flitting about, as though seen through a revolving +prism. Sometimes there is an iridescent effect similar to that of a +film of oil upon water; but there is no oil here. There are doubtless +many contributing causes that produce these remarkable effects. There +is first a great depth of clear water which always presents a +beautiful appearance. Then there are the mineral deposits on the sides +of the crater, producing indefinite reflection, the effects of which +are multiplied by the refractive power of the water. The mineral +ingredients dissolved or suspended in the water doubtless add to the +effect. + +The hot springs on the Gardiner River are wholly different in +character from those in any other part of the Park. The water of these +springs holds carbonate of lime in solution while most of the others +contain silica. To this fact must be attributed the peculiar character +of the formations at Mammoth Hot Springs. Wherever the deposits of +springs are calcareous, the character of the formations is the same, +and generally different from those produced by the deposit of silica. +They rise in terraces one above another, and mold for themselves +overhanging bowls of transcendent beauty in form and color. In the +tints displayed by the water, however, these springs are not unlike +others in the Park. + +[Illustration: + + _Terry Engr. Co._ _Haynes, Photo., St. Paul._ + +Cleopatra Terrace.] + +The rims about the quiescent springs are often very beautiful, and the +observer is astonished to see how they stand up above the general +surface of the ground so evenly built that the water has hardly a +choice of route in flowing away. Tyndall, however, makes this +puzzling phenomenon clear. He says: + +"Imagine the case of a simple thermal siliceous spring, whose waters +trickle down a gentle incline; the water thus exposed evaporates +speedily, and silica is deposited. This deposit gradually elevates the +side over which the water passes, until finally the latter has to take +another course. The same takes place here; the ground is elevated as +before, and the spring has to move forward. Thus it is compelled to +travel round and round, discharging its silica and deepening the shaft +in which it dwells, until finally, in the course of ages, the simple +spring has produced that wonderful apparatus which has so long puzzled +and astonished both the traveler and the philosopher." + +The boiling spring is intermediate between the quiescent spring and +the geyser. The circulation is sufficiently free to prevent a great +rise of temperature in the lower depths of the tube, and nothing more +than a surface ebullition, often extremely violent, results. These +springs are generally objects of secondary interest. They are simply +enormous caldrons; any kettle placed over a brisk fire simulates their +action on a small scale. + +The mud springs, or Paint Pots, as they are now always called, are +extremely curious phenomena. They are caused by the rising of steam +through considerable depths of earthy material. The water is just +sufficient in quantity to keep the material in a plastic condition, +and the steam operates upon it precisely as it does upon a kettle of +thick mush. Generally there are various mineral ingredients, mostly +oxides of iron, which impart different colors to different parts of +the group. As the steam puffs up here and there from the thick mass, +it forms the mud into a variety of imitative figures, prominent among +which is that of the lily. These figures immediately sink back into +the general mass, only to be formed anew by other puffs of steam. The +material is so fine as to be almost impalpable between the fingers. +Lieutenant Doane, however, justly observes that "mortar might well be +good after being constantly worked for perhaps ten thousand years." + +Other phenomena very common throughout the Park are steam vents or +fumaroles in which there is no water or only a very small quantity. +They are not ordinarily of much popular interest, although there are a +few remarkable examples. Among these may be mentioned the Black +Growler in the Norris Geyser Basin, and Steamboat Spring on the east +shore of the Yellowstone Lake. + +The hot spring areas of the Park are both numerous and extensive. They +abound throughout the valleys of the Yellowstone, the Madison, and the +Snake Rivers, and the number of individual springs is several +thousand. + + + + +CHAPTER V. + +FOSSIL FORESTS OF THE YELLOWSTONE. + + +A region of great popular and scientific interest in the Yellowstone +Park, although as yet hardly known to the tourist, owing to the +incomplete condition of the road system, is that of the Fossil Forests +in the north-east corner of the Park. The facts which have been +brought to light concerning the origin of these forests are worthy of +particular consideration. + +The trees are found to occur in different planes or horizons of +growth, one above another, until the whole series represents a +thickness of many hundreds, and possibly thousands, of feet. Going +back to the first of these growths, it is found to have been destroyed +by an outpouring of volcanic material, which partially or wholly +submerged it. After the flow had ceased, the ordinary atmospheric and +aqueous agencies began work, eroding the surface in some places and +depositing the products of erosion in others, while vegetation rapidly +covered the newly-formed soil. A subsequent flow destroyed this second +growth and gave a new horizon, on which the same process was repeated. +This continued until there were at least nine, and probably twelve, of +these consecutive growths. + +[Illustration: + + _Terry Engr. Co._ _U. S. Geological Survey of the Territories._ + +Section of Amethyst Mountains.] + +The lava flows in this particular section do not seem to have been +characterized by great heat. They were composed of volcanic +agglomerate, in which there was a large admixture of mud and water, +with sufficient heat to destroy life, but not to char or consume its +products. The percolation of siliceous waters gradually turned the +arboreal vegetation into stone by the process of substitution, and +thus preserved in these silent monuments a record of the events which +once transpired there. When the last of the eruptions had ceased, +there existed in this locality a vast depth of volcanic _ejectamenta_, +composed of many layers, on each of which was standing, buried in the +layer next above, the trunks of extinct forest growths. + +[Illustration: + + _Terry Engr. Co._ _Haynes, Photo., St. Paul._ + +Petrified Trees near Yancey's.] + +After the cessation of volcanic activity, the eroding agencies of the +Quaternary Period carved out the valley of the Lamar River through +these accumulated flows, and laid bare the remains of their vegetable +growths. To-day the tourist may see upon the slopes of Specimen Ridge, +side by side, the living and the dead, the little conifers of present +growth and the gigantic trunks of unknown species which flourished +there eons ago. + +Some of the petrifactions are very perfect. Roots, bark, parts showing +incipient decay, worm holes, leaves--all are preserved with absolute +fidelity. The rings of annual growth may be counted, and these +indicate for the larger trees an age of not less than five hundred +years. Some of the stumps are fully ten feet in diameter. Here and +there the ponderous roots stand imbedded in the rock face of the +cliff, where erosion has not yet undermined them. In one case, a large +tree that had fallen before petrifaction lies partly exposed, both +ends being still imbedded in the rock. Some hollow trees show +interiors beautifully lined with holocrystalline quartz. + +How long it took each growth to reach maturity; how long it flourished +afterward before destruction; and how long the several lava flows +suspended vegetable growth; are matters largely conjectural. But at +the very lowest estimate the time represented by these various +accumulations can not be less than five thousand years. + +That these early trees were of a different species from those which +now flourish there, need not excite surprise, for climatic and other +conditions are wholly changed. But an equal difference seems also to +have prevailed between the successive growths, the trees of which were +not only unlike each other, but nearly all were of species hitherto +unknown to science. Fortunately the rare perfection of some of the +specimens, particularly of the leaves and bark, have greatly +simplified their classification, and have given valuable clues to +their geologic age. + +The products of these petrifactions in time strewed the surface of the +ground with such an abundance of specimens as to give the locality its +present name. Most of the lighter specimens, and some of the heavier, +have been carried away. + +Besides the general interest of these old forests to the casual +observer, they are of great value to science, for probably in no other +part of the globe can a similar chapter of its history be found more +clearly recorded. + + + + +CHAPTER VI. + +FAUNA OF THE YELLOWSTONE. + + +The universal curiosity of people to see what are popularly called +wild animals, especially those larger species which never frequent the +precincts of civilization, is a fact of which it is not easy to give a +philosophical explanation. In this country the rapid disappearance, +amounting almost to annihilation, of the large game is looked upon as +a great misfortune; and in later years there has arisen a fixed +purpose that protection shall be secured for the surviving remnants of +those species which once with the red man held possession of the +continent. The statutes of nearly every state give evidence of the +universality of this sentiment. + +As a means of accomplishing such a purpose, no institution promises to +be more effectual than the Yellowstone Park. It ought, in this +respect, to be a complete realization of Catlin's dream. Its +importance as a game preserve was recognized in the Act of Dedication, +and has become more and more pronounced as acquaintance with it has +increased. + +The Park is fortunately better adapted for this purpose than any other +tract of similar extent in America. It offers very little to tempt the +cupidity of man. Its mineral wealth is buried so deeply under the lava +that no miner will ever reach it. Its altitude and climate unfit it +for agriculture. Its forests, though excellent for shade, are of +little value for lumber. But as a home for the native species of the +continent, it possesses unrivaled advantages. These are admirably +summed up in the following paragraph from the pen of Prof. Hague: + +[Illustration: + + _Terry Engr. Co._ _Haynes, Photo., St. Paul._ + +Park Elk.] + +"The broad expanse of forest incloses sequestered nooks, and enticing +grassy parks, with absolute seclusion in mountain recesses admirably +adapted for the homes of wild animals. It is the great diversity of +its physical features, offering within a restricted area. all the +requirements for animal life, which fits it for the home of big game. +Abundant food supply, shelter from wind and weather in winter, cool +resorts on the uplands in summer, favorable localities for breeding +purposes and the rearing of young, all are found here. The Park +supplies what is really needed--a zoological reservation where big +game may roam unmolested by the intrusion of man, rather than a +zoological garden inclosed by fences, and the game fed or sustained +more or less by artificial methods."[AV] + +[AV] "The Yellowstone National Park as a Game Preserve." See Appendix +E. + +[Illustration: + + _Terry Engr. Co._ _Haynes, Photo., St. Paul._ + +Park Buffalo.] + +It is a matter of profound regret that the many years of lax +administration in the Park to a great degree nullified its purposes as +a game preserve. Killing of wild animals was not absolutely prohibited +until 1883, and the restricted license previously in force was +shamefully abused. Some of the larger species were greatly reduced in +numbers, while in a few instances they were practically exterminated. +In later years, the elk, antelope, deer, bear and beaver, have rapidly +regained their former numbers, and there is no reason to apprehend +their extinction. There are now no fewer than 30,000 elk in the Park. +For the buffalo, mountain sheep, and a few other varieties, the +prospect is good, though not so flattering. The number of buffalo does +not probably exceed two hundred, and the possibility of their early +extinction has led the Smithsonian Institution to allot a sum of money +for the construction of a large inclosure in the Park, where at least +a portion of the herd can be kept and be thus more carefully +protected. Of the moose, mountain lion, wolverine, lynx, wild cat, +marten, and otter the perpetuation is more doubtful. They were too +much reduced in numbers during the game slaughtering era. The smaller +species, such as porcupines, foxes, gophers, squirrels, woodchucks, +and the like, flourish in great numbers. + +The tourist often feels a keen disappointment in passing through the +Park in that he does not see more game, and he not infrequently +expresses positive doubts of its existence. He should remember, +however, that it is the nature of wild game to shun the haunts of man. +If he will remain for some time in the Park and will frequent those +regions remote from the tourists routes he will see game in plenty. In +one important instance he rarely goes away disappointed. Bruin +generally accommodates him. The fine instincts of that intelligent +brute have shown him that it is much easier to get a living from the +refuse about the hotels than to forage for it in the wilds of +parsimonious nature. Nightfall, therefore, always brings him about to +the great delight of the game-seeking tourist. The incidents of each +season to which these bears unwittingly give rise are among the +amusing features of tourist life in that region. + +The herbivorous game generally seek the seclusion of the hills in +summer, but the deep snows of winter will not permit them to remain +there. At that season they descend to the valleys, of which the most +important are the Hayden, the Junction, and the Pelican Valleys, and +those about the headwaters of the Snake River. The preservation of +these tracts as a free winter pasturage is absolutely essential to the +perpetuity of game in the Yellowstone Park. + +Although an ornithologist, in passing through the Park, would report a +list of native birds so extensive as to lead one to think that they +abound in great numbers, there is really a noticeable absence of the +winged tribes. There are birds, of course, but in numbers, variety, +and beauty not to be compared with those in lower altitudes. The only +varieties that would attract attention from any but specialists are +the larger birds, which are often quite plentiful about the lakes. +There are great numbers of pelicans, gulls, fish-hawks, and cranes, +with now and then a wild swan. Eagles are not uncommon, while hawks, +woodpeckers, and robins are frequently seen. The sharp-tailed or +willow grouse is common, and in the fall of the year astonishing +numbers of wild geese and ducks frequent the marshes. There are many +other varieties, conspicuous mainly for their paucity of numbers. + +Piscatorially speaking, the Yellowstone National Park has no rival as +a paradise for the angler. The generous gift of nature and the +admirable work of the United States Fish Commission, supplemented by +the wise protection of the government, leave nothing to be desired by +even the most devout follower of Isaak Walton. + +Not all the streams of the Park were originally stocked with fish. +Where the waters leave the great volcanic plateau and fall to the +underlying formations, the cataracts form impassable barriers to the +ascent of fish. In the lower courses of all the streams there were +native trout, but above the falls, with one exception, there were +none. The exception of the Yellowstone River and Lake is a most +interesting one. Why the Falls of the Yellowstone, the highest and +most impassable of all, should apparently have proven no barrier, is +at first a puzzling question. But the solution is to be found in +Two-Ocean Pass. Across this remarkable divide fish may easily make +their way, and the Yellowstone Lake is unquestionably stocked from +this direction. We thus have an example, probably without parallel, of +an extensive body of water on the Atlantic slope stocked by nature +with fish from the Pacific. + +The trout of the Yellowstone Lake are to some extent infected with a +disease which renders them unfit for eating. In earlier times +particularly, this condition was generally prevalent. But more +recently the disease seems to be disappearing, and in time it will +probably die out altogether. + +In 1889 and 1890, the United States Fish Commission undertook to stock +all the fishless streams in the Park, and planted about 83,000 +yearling trout in the various streams and lakes. The varieties were +Brook, Lake, Loch Leven, and Von Behr trout. Recent examination of +these plants shows that all have taken decisive root, and that within +a few years there will not be a hidden stream or lake in the Park +which will be without its attractions for the sportsman. + + + + +CHAPTER VII. + +FLORA OF THE YELLOWSTONE. + + +The most conspicuous feature of the Park flora is the wide extent of +forest growth which covers some eighty-four per cent of its area. This +is the more noticeable because the surrounding country below the +mountains is practically treeless. The Park forests consist almost +exclusively of pine and fir. The trees are generally tall and slender +and of little use for lumber. They are usually unattractive in +appearance, although in some places among the mountains the spruce and +fir attain a size, form and hue of foliage that are exceedingly +beautiful. + +Among the several species may be noted the following: + +Black pine (_Pinus Murrayana_) so called from the dark hue of its +foliage when seen in dense bodies. + +Red fir (_Pseudotsuga Douglasii_) the largest variety in the Park, +sometimes attaining a diameter of five feet. + +Balsam (_Abies subalpina_). It flourishes near the snow fields and is +the beauty of the forest. + +Spruce (_Pinus Engelmanni_). Like the preceding it flourishes at high +altitudes. It is tall and slender, and is good for lumber. + +Red cedar (_Juniperus virginiana_) is found to a limited extent. + +Poplar or aspen (_Populus tremuloides_) flourishes among the sheltered +foot-hills. + +Dwarf maple is occasionally found. + +Willow thickets abound in great abundance. + +Of these varieties the first is found more abundantly than all the +others combined. In many places it has fallen down and strews the +country to such an extent as to be absolutely impassable on horseback. +There is very little timber of marketable value, and at first thought +it would seem that nature has here lavished her energies in a most +wasteful manner. + +But the great value of these forest growths, is their agency in the +conservation of a water supply for the surrounding country. A glance +at the map will show that the Park is in the midst of a vast arid +region extending far into the surrounding states. The reclamation of +these desert wastes, and their conversion into productive lands, can +be accomplished by irrigation alone, and for this purpose the abundant +streams which descend from the mountains are the indispensable water +supply. + +From the summit of the Grand Teton, the range of vision covers +probably the most remarkable group of river sources upon the earth. To +the north rises the Missouri which flows three thousand miles through +Montana, the Dakotas, Iowa, Nebraska, Kansas and Missouri. To the east +rises the Yellowstone, which, after leaving the Park, flows four +hundred miles through southern and eastern Montana until it unites +with the Missouri. From the eastern foot-hills of the Absaroka and +Shoshone Ranges flow the Wind and Big Horn Rivers through the +extensive valleys of the same names in Wyoming and Montana. +Southwardly, across the Wind River Range rises the Platte which flows +eastward eight hundred miles through Wyoming and Nebraska. From the +west flank of these mountains issue the tributaries of the Green River +(afterward the Colorado) which flows through Wyoming, Utah and Arizona +into the Gulf of California. Finally, interlaced with the sources of +the Yellowstone, and the Missouri, are those of the Snake River which +flows through Wyoming, Idaho and Washington into the Columbia, and +thus reaches the Pacific. + +Not only do these streams rise in this limited area; they derive from +it most of their waters. In the arid lowlands they receive but slight +accessions, and often actually shrink under evaporation. It is +therefore from a relatively small tract of country that the future +water supply must come for portions of ten states in the great arid +belt of the west. + +The conditions which nature has established around this remarkable +fountain-head are admirably adapted for the creation and maintenance +of an unlimited water supply. Over an area of more than 5,000 square +miles there prevails an average altitude of perhaps 7,500 feet; +sufficient to insure enormous annual snowfalls, but not so great as to +prevent their complete melting in summer. But, that they may not melt +too rapidly, the whole region is covered with a thick forest growth +cutting off the intense rays of the summer sun, and covering the +ground with a vegetable mold through which the surface waters filter +but slowly. It is a conservative estimate, based upon observations in +connection with road work in the Park, that these forests prolong the +melting of the snows from four to six weeks. This condition greatly +lessens the liability to sudden floods, and maintains a generous +supply of water far into the summer. + +It has been estimated[AW] that from the Park alone, at low water, +there flows per second 4,000 cubic feet of water. If the time ever +comes when this supply is so far used as to threaten exhaustion, there +will be found in the basin of Yellowstone Lake the most perfect +facilities in the world for the construction of an artificial +reservoir of almost limitless capacity at a comparatively +insignificant cost. A dam could be thrown across the gorge at the +first rapids in the Yellowstone below the Lake, and without injuring +the natural condition of that region, could easily be made to +quadruple the present capacity of the Lake. + +[AW] By Dr. William Hallock, United States Geological Survey. + +The Park with its contiguous area thus presents magnificent +possibilities in the development of the surrounding +country--possibilities of which its founders little dreamed, but which +they unconsciously foreshadowed when they declared that this region +should be forever set apart for the "benefit" as well as for the +"enjoyment" of the people. + +Besides its wealth of trees, the Park produces other interesting +flora. Interspersed among the forests and ornamenting the open glades +are flowers and shrubs in endless profusion. We quote from the +description of one of the early visitors: + +"The choke-cherry, the goose-berry, the buffalo-berry, and black and +red currants, are found along the streams and in moist places of the +middle and lower altitudes. The meadows and hill-sides are spangled +with bright-colored flowers, among which may be noted the +bee-larkspur, the columbine, the harebell, the lupine, the evening +primrose, the aster, the painted cup, the gentian, and various kinds +of euphorbia. It is not uncommon to find daises, buttercups, +forget-me-nots, white-ground phlox, and other field flowers +flourishing in profusion near the melting snow banks during the month +of August. Scarcely a night throughout the year passes without frost, +even though the temperature by day is over 80 F., so that all forms of +vegetation in the Park grow and bloom under somewhat unusual +conditions. Indeed, when ice forms in the water-pails of camping +parties during the night, as often happens, and the petals of the +flowers become crisp with frost; even then the blooms are not harmed, +but thaw out bright and fresh when the hot sun touches them." + +The flowers form a most attractive feature of the Park, and give an +interesting study of the way in which altitude and temperature affect +well known varieties. It is only after a second look that one can +trace in the mountain dandelion, huckleberry, and other species a +resemblance to those of lower altitudes. The extreme shortness of the +season causes vegetation to mature quickly, and before the flush of +spring has disappeared from the leaves the palor of autumn makes its +appearance. + +The mountain grasses are generally abundant in the open country and +even in many places among the forests. The writer just quoted says: + +"The pasturage on the many open spaces is excellent, the mountain +meadows being covered with a mat of nutritious grasses. The +predominating variety is the bunch grass, upon which the horses of +tourists generally subsist, keeping in good condition without the need +of oats. Among other kinds, are the blue joint, fescue, and beard +grasses, as well as Alpine timothy, all of which grow luxuriantly." + +The early autumns tinge the foliage of the willow parks and other +groups of shrubbery with a wealth of color not often seen elsewhere. +Even the frost on the grass upon sharp mornings seems to have a +peculiar beauty, and one may trace terrestrial rainbows in all the +perfection of those set in the sky. + + + + +CHAPTER VIII. + +THE PARK IN WINTER. + + +From the end of September to the end of May the Park is closed to the +tourist; that is, the hotels do not receive guests, and camping is too +precarious to be attempted. It is generally possible, however, to get +into the Park as late as the middle or end of November, very rarely as +late as Christmas. In May, the snowfalls are light, but the +accumulations of the previous winter render traveling out of the +question. With great difficulty the hotel company reaches its nearest +hotels as early as May 16. Some of the roads remain impassable fully a +month later. + +What the fall of snow is in the upper Park has never been determined; +but at Mammoth Hot Springs, altitude 6,200 feet, an average for six +years, from November to April inclusive, is ten feet per year, with a +maximum of fifteen feet and a minimum of five. But on the Park +Plateau, 1,000 to 1,500 feet higher, the fall is certainly much +greater. No doubt its light depth aggregates twenty feet. The weight +of this snow often destroys the railing of bridges and injures the +buildings of the Park. + +The drifts accumulate in phenomenal magnitude. No matter how deep a +ravine may be, the wind will pile the snow up in it until it is level +with the surrounding country. Some of these drifts on the mountain +sides are hundreds of feet deep and never entirely melt away. Even on +the general plateau they last until the middle of July. The Cañon +Hotel is almost buried every winter. The snow actually reaches the +second story windows, and the drift behind the hotel would last +throughout the summer were its melting not facilitated by cutting it +in pieces with shovels. It verily seems that all the conditions of +climate here conspire to make this region one of the snowiest in the +world. + +Of course, general access to the Park under such conditions is wholly +out of the question. Only on snow-shoes is it possible at all. The +hotel company has a watchman at each of its buildings, who drags out a +lonely existence through the two hundred days from November to May. He +can talk over the telephone line with Mammoth Hot Springs, and at long +intervals he receives a call, and perhaps mail, from "Telephone Pete," +who travels the line to keep it in order. In some places, also, small +squads of soldiers are stationed for the winter. + +The art of traveling by snow-shoe is a thoroughly interesting one, +notwithstanding the fact that it is about the most difficult method of +travel known and is rarely resorted to except from sheer necessity. + +The instrument used in the Park for this purpose is called a _ski_ +(pronounced skee). It is a long slender strip of wood--ash, Norway +pine, or hickory--some twelve feet long, four or five inches wide, and +just thick enough to give needed strength. About midway of its length +is a strap through which the toe is slipped and by which the foot +pulls the _ski_ along. The bearing surface of the two _skis_ is about +eight square feet, and holds the weight of the body even in soft snow +without sinking more than a few inches. The bottom surface is +polished smooth and then rubbed with a mixture of tallow and beeswax +to make it free from friction. A pole is an important accompaniment, +aiding to slide the traveler along and steady him on the _skis_. It +also serves as a brake in descending steep hills, the traveler sitting +astride it and bearing the rear end into the snow. + +Down hill work is indeed glorious. No express train can rival the +_ski_ for speed. Its only drawback is danger of accident. On level +country _ski_ traveling is simply walking on a board walk, except that +the pedestrian carries the board with him, and makes and unmakes the +road as fast as he goes. This is hard enough, especially if the snow +is sticky, but when it comes to up hill traveling it is a truly +laborious matter. If the hill is steep, there is danger of losing +one's grip on the snow and sliding backward down the hill. Where the +ascent is too steep to work up by direct forward movement, +"corduroying" is resorted to. The traveler works up sidewise, stepping +up a foot or so with the upper _ski_ and following with the lower. +Generally this sidewise movement is combined with a slight forward +movement, the _skis_ being pointed up hill at as steep an inclination +as they will hold. + +The dress and equipment of the snow-shoe traveler are reduced to a +minimum consistent with protection from the climate. This protection +is really needed only at camping places, for the extraordinary +exertion of traveling keeps the body in a continuous glow of warmth. +Generally, warm woolen underwear, with canvas surface garments to keep +out the wind and to shed snow, are the essential features of the +dress. No overcoat is worn, but a tightly drawn belt takes its place. +The feet are the weak point. "Natural wool socks, then a pair of +Indian moccasins, then a pair of heavy gray army socks, then Arctic +overshoes and leggings," is the description of an equipment actually +used. A broad hat is frequently worn to keep snow out of the neck, and +colored glasses are indispensable to prevent snow blindness. + +Baggage is limited to the strictest necessities, and is so packed that +it will rest uniformly on the back from the shoulders to the hips. + +No eating of snow or drinking of water can be safely indulged in while +_en route_. The traveler must go strictly "dry" between meals. + +[Illustration: + + _Terry Engr. Co._ _Haynes, Photo., St. Paul._ + +Geyser Basins in Winter.] + +Of course traveling of this sort is attended with much peril. A man +must rely wholly on himself. No wagon or saddle is available if he is +injured or sick. Heavy storms may blind him and cause him to lose his +way. In short, a snow-shoe trip through the Park is an undertaking +which requires a vigorous physique, a determined will, and a good fund +of courage. Very few, except those whose duty has required it, have +ever made the attempt. But it is the unanimous verdict of those who +have, that, glorious as the Park is in summer, it is even more +glorious in winter. One can readily understand this to be so. +Evergreen forests never appear to better advantage than when +laden with snow. Ice formations always enhance the beauty of +water-falls.[AX] The rolling open valleys of the Park must be doubly +beautiful when robed in drifted snow. It is a pity that this silvery +landscape should forever remain excluded from the general view. + +[AX] For picture of Grand Cañon in winter, see p. 257. + + + + +CHAPTER IX. + +THE PARK AS A HEALTH RESORT. + + +The climate of the Yellowstone National Park, to any one with a fair +reserve of health, is of the most beneficial kind. The general public +will be interested in the subject only as it relates to that season +when it is possible to visit the Park. + +For the six months beginning with May, the average temperature will +not vary much from the following figures, Fahrenheit: + + Maximum. Minimum. Mean. + + May 77° 25° 49° + June 87° 30° 55° + July 91° 36° 64° + August 90° 36° 61° + September 85° 25° 54° + October 72° 18° 41° + +These temperatures are for Mammoth Hot Springs. For the Park Plateau +they should be diminished by not less than ten degrees. No month of +the year in that region passes without ice-forming frosts. It will be +seen that during June, July, August, and September, the thermometer +makes excursions to the neighborhood of the nineties. This, however, +is only in the middle of the day, and is due to the direct intensity +of the sun's rays. No such heat pervades the general atmosphere. As +soon as the sun is near setting, the temperature falls rapidly. The +night temperature rarely gets above 55° or 60°, and averages scarcely +half as much. The Park is noted for its delightful sleep-giving +qualities, which constitute no small part of its claim as a health +resort. + +Summer in the Park is comparatively short. It may not be strictly true +that "the Park has only three seasons, July, August, and Winter," but +it is true that July and August are the only two months free from the +ordinary characteristics of winter. Snows are frequent in June and +September, while May and October are well on the snowy side of the +year. July and August are the Park summer. The weather is settled. The +air is pure and bracing and not too cold. The long imprisoned +vegetation bursts suddenly into full life and beauty, and in a short +period take place all the changes which require months in lower +altitudes. + +That there is life and health in that summer atmosphere, no one who +has breathed it will deny. At the same time, as has already been +hinted, it is healthful only for those who have some foundation to +build upon. Persons suffering from any form of heart disease or +advanced pulmonary trouble, or those greatly reduced in strength from +any cause, would better stay away. The altitude and sharp air might +prove too severe. + +A matter which has naturally attracted considerable inquiry is the +therapeutic value of the mineral springs of the Park. The +superstitious faith in the efficacy of mineral waters to restore +health, which has characterized mankind in all ages, caused the +physically afflicted to hail the discovery of that region as the +promised fountain of new life. The first explorers to ascend the +Gardiner in 1871 found "numbers of invalids" encamped on its banks, +where the hot waters from Mammoth Hot Springs enter the stream; and it +is recorded that "they were most emphatic in their favorable +expressions in regard to their sanitary effects." + +But this impression was very evanescent. No one now goes to the Park +because of its mineral waters. Nevertheless, it would be wholly +premature to assume that there is no medicinal virtue in them. +Certainly there is in the Park almost every variety of mineral spring; +there are abundant and luxurious waters for bathing; and it is not at +all improbable that the opportunities afforded in this region may yet +be utilized to the great advantage of the public. + +But for health-giving qualities, the Park will never be dependent on +its mineral waters. Its true value lies in other and more potent +influences. The pure water of its snow-fed streams, the exhilarating +atmosphere, the bracing effect of altitude, the wholesome fatigue of +daily rambles over the rough, mountainous country, the fragrant odor +of the pine boughs which every-where pervades the atmosphere, and, +above all, the beautiful and varied scenery, which exalts the mind and +diverts the attention from cares that are too often the real cause of +physical ills--these are the true virtues of the Yellowstone Park as a +health resort. + + + + +CHAPTER X. + +ROADS, HOTELS, TRANSPORTATION. + + +The Park, as is well known, is a very extensive tract of country, and +its various points of interest are widely separated from each other. +The question of ways and means for getting comfortably through it is +an all-important one. If the roads are bad, the hotels ill-kept, or +the transportation uncomfortable, no amount of grandeur of natural +scenery can compensate for these defects. In making a tour of the +Park, the visitor travels not less than 150 miles, sometimes +considerably more, and remains in the Park about one week. He is thus +quite at the mercy of those who have the management and control of +those matters which form the subject of this chapter. + +The road system of the Park, when completed, will comprise a belt +line, connecting the principal centers of interest; approaches, by +which access may be had to the Park from different directions; side +roads, leading from the main route to isolated points of interest; and +trails, by which pack outfits can reach desired points to which +regular roads will never be built. + +The belt line includes Mammoth Hot Springs, Norris Geyser Basin, Lower +Geyser Basin, Upper Geyser Basin, the Yellowstone Lake, the Grand +Cañon, and Junction Valley. A cross-road passes from Norris to the +Grand Cañon. + +The approaches are not all yet selected, but in time there will be at +least one on each side of the Park. + +Trails are important adjuncts of the Park road system. They were long +ago selected and opened up, and they are of great importance in +patroling the Park. They are also much used by those tourists who +remain for a considerable time. + +The mileage of the completed road system will be about as follows: + + Belt line 163 miles. + Approaches 105 " + Side roads 22 " + --- + Total mileage of Park system, exclusive of trails 290 " + +In regard to construction, it is hardly necessary to say that nothing +but the best macadamized roads should be built. The inherent +difficulties of the work are great. The soil in many places is of the +most wretched character. The country is exceedingly rough. The streams +are almost without number. The snow lies on some of the roads until +the middle of June. The mud in the wet season is bad, and the dust of +the dry season is worse. The soft volcanic rocks, which so generally +prevail, make poor road metal. But all these difficulties can be +overcome, if Congress will but provide for a systematic completion of +the project. At present, the annual allowance is too small to promise +any thing like good work, and it will be many years before the hopes +of the government engineers in the matter will be realized. + +The work itself is as attractive as ever falls to the lot of the road +engineer, and it is doubtful if another opportunity exists to develop +a road system which, if properly done, will reflect so much credit +upon the government building it. It is used by visitors from all +lands. It passes through every variety of scenery. It presents every +known problem of road engineering. In short, it combines all the +elements to make it, when complete, one of the noted highways of the +world. + +[Illustration: + + _Terry Engr. Co._ _Gandy._ + +Kingman Pass. (Showing roadway along side of cliff.)] + +It is not impossible that the tourist may yet be carried by boat from +the west shore of the Lake to near the head of the Falls, nor that a +bridge worthy of its surroundings--an arch of the native rock so +studied as to simulate a natural bridge--will span the river near the +Upper Falls and give access to the many splendid views from the right +bank of the Grand Cañon. + +The tourist transportation of the Park is done mostly by coach, +ordinarily with four horses each. Surreys and saddle horses are also +provided when desired. The present system is the result of long +development, and is very satisfactory. With proper roads, it would be +all that could be desired. + +Electric transportation in the Park has often been suggested, but +there are certain grave objections, to be discussed in a later +chapter, which will probably always prevent its introduction. + +[Illustration: + + _Terry Engr. Co._ _Haynes, Photo., St. Paul._ + +Yellowstone Park Coach.] + +When the hotel system of the Park is complete, there will be no fewer +than seven good houses and three lunch stations along the belt line +and approaches. The hotels will be at Mammoth Hot Springs, Norris +Geyser Basin, Lower Geyser Basin, Upper Geyser Basin, Yellowstone +Lake, Grand Cañon, and Junction Valley. The present management of the +hotels has developed into a very efficient system. It is conducted by +a single company whose business headquarters is at Mammoth Hot +Springs, from which point all supplies are shipped. A telegraph line +connects it with points in the interior and with the outside world. +The manager of each hotel knows in advance the number of guests he +must provide for, and the convenience of the tourist is thus carefully +arranged beforehand. With a reasonable extension and development of +the present system, the Park will be admirably equipped in this +respect. + +Besides the regular tourists--those who make the usual trip, stopping +at the hotels--there are hundreds who pass through the Park with +camping outfits. During the months of July and August and early +September, this is by no means an undesirable method. It is less +comfortable, to be sure, than the ordinary method, but at the same +time it is less expensive and more independent. In the latter part of +August, the Park fairly swarms with these camping parties. They give +the authorities plenty to do, for the danger of forest conflagrations +from their camp fires is very great. + + + + +CHAPTER XI. + +ADMINISTRATION OF THE PARK. + + +The administration of the Park is assigned by law to the Secretary of +the Interior, who delegates his authority to a local Superintendent. +By statute, also, the Secretary of the Interior is authorized to call +upon the Secretary of War for such details of troops as may be +necessary to protect the Park. Owing to the failure of Congress to +provide for a civilian Superintendent and police force, since 1886, +the Secretary of the Interior has found it necessary to avail himself +of this second statute, so that the present working of the Park +administration is on this wise: + +An army officer, commanding the troops of the Park, is the +representative of the Secretary of the Interior, and is called the +Acting Superintendent of the Park, on the assumption that the old +_régime_ of civilian Superintendents is only temporarily suspended. +The Superintendent is charged with the enforcement of the rules and +regulations provided for the government of the Park. As to all such +matters, he receives his instructions direct from the Secretary of the +Interior, and he annually submits to that official a report upon the +condition of the Park. For a police force, he has two troops of +cavalry, which he stations throughout the Park as necessity requires. +He has also one civilian scout, paid for from the appropriation for +the army, whose duty it is to patrol the 5,000 square miles, more or +less, in the original reservation and the forest reserve![AY] + +[AY] A portion of the latest appropriation for the Park is authorized +to be expended in the employment of additional scouts. This policy +ought to be continued. + +The specific duties which form the burden of the Superintendent's work +are: + +1. To see that all leases and privileges granted by the Secretary of +the Interior to private parties are strictly observed, and that all +business conducted in the Park is in pursuance of government authority +and in accordance with specific conditions and limitations. + +2. The protection of the Park from vandalism. This is a very important +matter. The pardonable desire to carry off specimens from the +beautiful formations, and the unpardonable craze to cover them with +individual names, would, if unrestrained, soon quite destroy what +nature, through long ages, has so laboriously produced. + +3. The protection of game. All around the Park are hordes of +law-breakers, who let pass no opportunity to destroy the surviving +species. To avert this calamity requires the utmost vigilance of the +Park police. + +4. The preservation of forests. This has always been the most onerous +and trying duty of Park officials. The importance of the forests is so +far-reaching that their destruction would be a public calamity. No +exertion can be considered too great which may prevent it. + +5. The construction of roads and bridges in the Park. + +Other functions which the Superintendent fills are the social duties +of his position, which at certain seasons exact much of his attention. +Official visitors depend upon him entirely for pilotage through the +Park. Private parties bring letters soliciting favors, and on the +whole he finds his time well occupied with these pleasant, though +sometimes onerous, duties. + +The office building of the Superintendent, who is also commanding +officer of Fort Yellowstone, is at Mammoth Hot Springs. A pretty +little garrison is built upon the white formation opposite the hotel, +and in winter, the whole military force, except small detachments in +various places, is gathered at that point. + +At Mammoth Hot Springs are also located the post-office and jail, and +at this point the judicial officers of the Park hold court to try +offenses against the Park statutes and regulations. + + + + +CHAPTER XII. + +A TOUR OF THE PARK. + +_Preliminary._ + + +In the following description there will be mentioned in succinct +outline all the notable features of interest in the Yellowstone +National Park. For more detailed information, the reader is referred +to the list of names in "Appendix A." + +The necessary limit of space forbids any thing like extended +description, even if the inherent difficulties of such a task would +permit. Captain Ludlow has well stated the nature of these +difficulties: + +"The Park scenery, as a whole," he says, "is too grand, its scope too +immense, its details too varied and minute, to admit of adequate +description, save by some great writer, who, with mind and pen equally +trained, can seize upon the salient points, and, with just +discrimination, throw into proper relief the varied features of +mingled grandeur, wonder, and beauty." + +Of the many who have attempted, with pen or pencil, to reproduce the +wonders of the Yellowstone, no one has yet completely satisfied these +important requirements. The writer, for his part, will modestly +decline any such undertaking, and, like that pioneer explorer, Folsom, +will confine his descriptions "to the bare facts." He will, however, +occasionally call to aid those who have seen and written of these +wonders. To the early explorers, in particular, who entered this +region before it became generally known, its strange phenomena +appealed with an imaginative force which the guide-book tourist of +to-day can hardly realize. This may account for the fact that some of +these explorers, who have never, before or since, put pen to paper +with any literary purpose in view, have left in their narratives +strokes of word painting which the most gifted writer would find it +difficult to excel. + +The season selected for the tour will be the early days of July. The +rain and snow and chilly air, not uncommon in June, are gone. The +drought and smoke of August and September are still remote. Even +mosquitoes, so amazingly plentiful at certain seasons (Langford found +them on the very summit of the Grand Teton), have not yet made their +appearance. It is late enough, however, to call forth in their richest +glory the magnificent profusion of flowers which every-where abound in +the Park. The air is at its best, full of life and energy, and so +clear that it confounds distances and gives to objects, though far +away, a distinctness quite unknown in lower altitudes. The skies, as +they appear at this season, surpass the sunny skies of Italy, and the +tourist will find in their empyreal depths a beauty and fascination +forever lacking in the dingy air of civilization. In short, the open +air stage trips through that rich mountain atmosphere will form one of +the most attractive and invigorating features of the tour. + +Without further preliminary, the rôle of guide will now be assumed, +and the tourist will be conducted through the wonders of this +celebrated country, following, over most of the distance, the present +general route. + + + + +CHAPTER XIII. + +A TOUR OF THE PARK. + +_North Boundary to Mammoth Hot Springs._ + + +[Illustration: + + _Terry Engr. Co._ _Gandy._ + +Gardiner River.] + +Distance five miles. The road for most of the way lies in the valley +of the Gardiner. The principal points of interest en route are: + +_The Junction of the Yellowstone and Gardiner Rivers_ which determines +the north boundary of the Park. It lies in the State of Montana, the +state line being two miles further south. The old prospector's route +bore off at this point and kept up the valley of the Yellowstone. +Folsom took this route in 1869; so did the Wasburn party in 1870. +Hayden and Barlow in 1871 kept along the Gardiner and thus saw the +Mammoth Hot Springs. + +_The Gardiner Cañon_ is a precipitous valley of loose gray walls +suggestive of danger from falling rocks. The nests of fish-hawks here +and there crown detached pinnacles. The most striking feature of the +cañon is the river, a typical mountain torrent of such rapid fall over +its rocky bed that it is a continuous succession of foaming cascades. + +Some four miles up the river, at the point where the road leaves it, +the tourist gets his first sight of any indication of subterranean +heat. This is a large stream of hot water, in early times called the +_Boiling River_, issuing from an opening in the rocks and emptying +directly into the river. It is formed of the collected waters of +Mammoth Hot Springs which find their way to this point through +underground passages. It was here that "numbers of invalids" were +encamped when Hayden and Barlow saw the spot in 1871. + +From the last crossing of the Gardiner a winding road, which rises 600 +feet in its length of one mile, brings the tourist to the +world-renowned _Mammoth Hot Springs_, and to the administrative and +business headquarters of the Park. + +[Illustration: + + _Terry Engr. Co._ _U. S. Geological Survey of the Territories._ + +Mammoth Hot Springs. + +Bunsen Peak in the distance.] + +[Illustration: + + _U. S. Geological Survey of the Territories._ + +Pulpit Terrace.] + +First in importance, among the many points of interest accessible from +this locality, are the _Hot Springs Terraces_. These have been built +one upon another until the present active portion constitutes a hill +rising 300 feet above the site of the Mammoth Hot Springs Hotel. The +formation about these springs, it will be remembered, is calcareous, +and to this fact is due its distinctive character, so different from +the silica formations which prevail nearly every-where else in the +Park. The overhanging bowls which these deposits build up are among +the finest specimens of Nature's work in the world, while the water +which fills them is of that peculiar beauty to be found only in +thermal springs. Speaking of this feature Dr. Hayden says: + +"The wonderful transparency of the water surpasses any thing of the +kind I have ever seen in any other portion of the world. The sky, with +the smallest cloud that flits across it, is reflected in its clear +depths, and the ultramarine colors, more vivid than the sea, are +greatly heightened by constant, gentle vibrations. One can look down +into the clear depths and see, with perfect distinctness, the +minutest ornament on the inner sides of the basins; and the exquisite +beauty of the coloring and the variety of forms baffle any attempt to +portray them either with pen or pencil."[AZ] + +[AZ] Page 69 Hayden's Report for 1871. See Appendix E. + +_Cleopatra Spring_, _Jupiter Terrace_, _Pulpit Terrace_, _Minerva +Terrace_, the _Narrow Gauge Terrace_--an incongruous name for a long +fissure spring--the _White Elephant_, another fissure spring, and the +_Orange Geyser_, a very pretty formation, dome-shaped, with a +pulsating spring in the top, are among the most interesting of the +active springs. + +_Liberty Cap_ is the cone of an extinct spring and stands forty-five +feet high and twenty feet through at the base. + +_Bath Lake_ is a warm pool of considerable size, much used in bathing. + +Scattered over the formation in every direction are caves, springs, +steam-vents, handsome deposits, and curiosities without number to +attract and detain the visitor. Many of them, like _Cupid's Cave_, the +_Devil's Kitchen_, and _McCartney's Cave_, are of much interest. In +the last-mentioned cave, or, more properly, crater, an elk fell one +winter when the crater was level full with light snow. His antlers +caught between the sides of the crater, holding him in a suspended +position until he perished. He was found the following spring by Mr. +McCartney. + +Besides the hot springs features, there are other important objects of +interest in this neighborhood. + +[Illustration: + + _Terry Engr. Co._ _Haynes, Photo., St. Paul._ + +Golden Gate.] + +[Illustration: + + _Terry Engr. Co._ _Ingersoll._ + +Osprey Falls.] + +_Lookout Hill_ is a prominent rounded elevation opposite the hotel. +Upon its summit is a block-house, built by Colonel Norris, in 1879, as +a headquarters building for the Superintendent. The awkward and +inconvenient location was selected for its defensible qualities. It +will be remembered that the two previous years, 1877 and 1878, had +witnessed the Nez Percé and Bannock incursions into the Park. + +_The Falls and Cañon of the Middle Gardiner_, distant four miles from +the hotel, are the finest scenery of the kind in the Park, excepting +only the Grand Cañon of the Yellowstone. + +_Bunsen Peak_ is a conspicuous summit located between the Middle and +West Forks of the Gardiner. Its western face terminates in _Cathedral +Rock_, a bold cliff that overhangs the valley of _Glen Creek_. + +_Golden Gate_ and _Kingman Pass_ are names applied to the picturesque +cañon of Glen Creek. It is justly considered one of the gems of the +Park scenery. The skillful engineering feat of carrying the tourist +route through this difficult cañon was performed by Lieutenant D. C. +Kingman, of the Corps of Engineers, U. S. A., in 1884-5. _Rustic +Falls_ is a handsome cataract near the head of the pass. The best view +in this vicinity is to be had from above the pass, looking through it +toward Mt. Everts. + +Besides Bunsen Peak, the tourist will find _Terrace Mountain_, +_Sepulcher Mountain_, and _Electric Peak_ ever ready to satisfy +whatever ambition for mountain climbing he may possess. + +The _East Gardiner Cañon_ affords some fine views, and the falls and +rapids at its head are extremely beautiful. It is through this cañon +that access can most easily be had to the summit of _Mt. Everts_. This +last name is given to a feature which bears almost no resemblance to +the ordinary conception of a mountain. It is simply a broad table-land +extending from the Yellowstone south and terminating in the lofty and +conspicuous bluff just across the Gardiner from Mammoth Hot Springs. +The mountain derives its chief popular interest from the Everts +episode, which is described in the Appendix under "Mt. Everts." It is +also of great interest to scientific inquirers. The view from the +prominent point opposite the forks of the Gardiner is very fine. The +whole Mammoth Hot Springs formation and the group of buildings near +it; the cañons and falls of the three Gardiners; and the array of +mountain peaks across the valley, form a rare and attractive +landscape. + +Mt. Everts and the surrounding country are the home of the Park +antelope and mountain sheep. + +As explained elsewhere, Mammoth Hot Springs is the official and +business headquarters of the Park. The handsome garrison of Fort +Yellowstone is built on the white formation, and with the hotel and +transportation buildings, the post-office, and various other +structures, gives the place a village appearance not to be seen in any +other part of the Park. + + + + +CHAPTER XIV. + +A TOUR OF THE PARK. + +_Mammoth Hot Springs to Norris Geyser Basin._ + + +Distance, twenty miles. The first object of interest, after ascending +the long hill above the Springs (four miles), is the _Gallatin Range_ +of mountains, which bursts into full view upon emerging from Kingman +Pass. Its various peaks--_Joseph_, _Gray_, _Bannock_, _Quadrant_, _the +Dome_, _Mt. Holmes_, and others--still retain the heavy snow drifts of +the previous winter. Some of these peaks remain in sight for thirty +miles along the tourist route. + +_Swan Lake_ (4.5 miles) is a little pond on the right of the road. + +_Willow Park_ (8 miles) comprises the valley of the lower course of +Obsidian Creek. It is a dense growth of willows, and forms an +attractive sight, either in the fresh foliage of spring or in its +autumnal coloring. + +_Apollinaris Spring_ (10 miles) is on the left of the roadway, in a +pine forest. Tourists generally stop and try its water. + +_Obsidian Cliff_ (12 miles) is composed of a kind of volcanic glass, +black as anthracite, which abounds at this point in enormous masses. +The Indians once quarried implements of war and the chase here, and +many fine arrowheads have been picked up by explorers. The building of +the first road along the base of this cliff has some historic +celebrity, owing to the novel method employed. It was done by Colonel +Norris, who thus describes it: + +[Illustration: + + _Terry Engr. Co._ _Haynes, Photo., St. Paul._ + +Obsidian Cliff and Beaver Lake.] + +"Obsidian there rises like basalt in vertical columns many hundreds of +feet high, and countless huge masses had fallen from this utterly +impassable mountain into the hissing hot spring margin of an equally +impassable lake, without either Indian or game trail over the +glistering fragments of Nature's glass, sure to severely lacerate. As +this glass barricade sloped from some 200 or 300 feet high against the +cliff at an angle of some 45° to the lake, we--with the slivered +fragments of timber thrown from the heights--with huge fires, heated +and expanded, and then men, well screened by blankets held by others, +by dashing cold water, suddenly cooled and fractured the large masses. +Then, with huge levers, steel bars, sledge, pick, and shovels, and +severe laceration of at least the hands and faces of every member of +the party, we rolled, slid, crushed, and shoveled one-fourth of a +mile of good wagon road midway along the slope; it being, so far as I +am aware, the only road of native glass upon the continent."[BA] + +[BA] Annual Report Superintendent of the Park, 1878. + +The reader may now be inclined to take issue with our judgment of +Norris' practical turn for road building. He will at least readily +indorse our opinion of the old mountaineer's literary ability. (See +"Norris Peak," Appendix A.) + +_Beaver Lake_ has its outlet opposite the base of Obsidian Cliff. It +is formed by ancient beaver dams, now entirely overgrown with +vegetation. The old dam extends in a sinuous line entirely across the +valley, and, although apparently less than a yard thick, is quite +impervious to water. The lake is a great resort for water fowl later +in the year. + +_Roaring Mountain_ (15.5 miles) is a high hill on the left of the +road, with a powerful steam vent near the summit. Nothing which can +now be heard from the road would suggest the name. + +_Twin Lakes_ (16 miles) are two exquisitely beautiful ponds, if only +seen in a good sunlight and with a tranquil surface. The peculiar +green of the water is perhaps to be seen nowhere except in the +National Park. A most singular feature of these two lakes is that, +although so close together, they never simultaneously exhibit the same +colors. + +_The Frying Pan_ (17.75 miles) is a small basin of geyserite, on the +right of the road, vigorously stewing away in a manner which reminds +one of a kitchen spider in operation. + +After passing Obsidian Cliff evidences of hot spring action constantly +increase, until they reach their climax in the _Norris Geyser Basin_. +There are but few other places in the Park where the odor of sulphur +is so general and offensive as on this portion of the tourist route. + +Norris Geyser Basin is clearly among the more recent volcanic +developments of this region. Its rapid encroachment upon the forest +growth, and the frequent appearance of new springs and the +disappearance of others, indicate its relatively recent origin. +Compared with the Firehole Geyser Basin it is of minor importance; but +coming first to the notice of the tourist it receives a large amount +of attention. It has only one prominent geyser, the _Monarch_, which +throws a column about 100 feet high. The _Constant_ is visible from +the roadway in the bottom of a large tract of geyserite which is +unsafe for pedestrians. It makes up in frequency of action what it +lacks in power. The most noteworthy feature of the basin has received +the appropriate name _Hurricane_. It is a prodigious steam vent whose +violent gusts bear a striking resemblance to the driving blasts of a +tempest. It also discharges a large amount of water. The _Black +Growler_, close by the road side, is a similar phenomenon. + +Among the less important features of this basin may be mentioned the +_Congress_, _Constant_, _Arsenic_, _Echinus_, _Fearless_, _Pearl_, +_Vixen_, _Minute Man_, and _Mew Crater_, all geysers; the _Emerald +Pool_, a quiescent spring; and the _Locomotive_ and _Mud Geyser_, +boiling springs. + +From the Norris Hotel a drive of three miles up the Gibbon River, on +the cross road leading to the Grand Cañon, carries the tourist to +_Virginia Cascade_, a unique and picturesque water-fall in a rocky +cañon of considerable beauty. + +[Illustration: + + _Terry Engr. Co._ _Haynes, Photo., St. Paul._ + +Black Growler.] + +[Illustration: + + _Terry Engr. Co._ _Haynes, Photo., St. Paul._ + +Gibbon Cañon.] + + + + +CHAPTER XV. + +A TOUR OF THE PARK. + +_Norris Geyser Basin to Lower Geyser Basin._ + + +Distance, 20 miles. The road follows the Gibbon River to within three +miles of its mouth, then crosses a point of land to the Firehole, and +ascends the right bank of the latter stream to the Lower Basin. + +_Gibbon Meadows_ (3 miles) is a broad open bottom, sometimes called +Elk Park, just at the head of Gibbon Cañon. + +The _Gibbon Paint Pots_ (4 miles) are on the left of the road, near +the head of the cañon, and one-fourth of a mile away. + +_Monument Geyser Basin_ (4.5 miles) is on the high hill just west of +the upper end of Gibbon Cañon. It is an interesting spot, but rarely +visited owing to its inaccessibility. It was discovered and named by +Col. Norris. + +The _Gibbon Cañon_ (4.5 to 10.5 miles) affords the tourist one of the +pleasantest rides in the Park. The mountains rise boldly from the +river on either side, and present several particularly fine views. The +road lies close to the river's edge, and the stream is an important +adjunct to the scenery. + +_Beryl Spring_ (5 miles) is close to the road on the side opposite the +river. It boils violently and discharges a large amount of water. The +steam from it frequently obscures the roadway. + +The _Soda and Iron Spring_ (7.5 miles), like Apollinaris Spring +already mentioned, is a frequent stopping-place for tourists. + +_Gibbon Falls_ (8 miles) is a water-fall of very irregular outline, +but withal one of much beauty. The road hangs on the side of the cliff +far above it, and affords a lovely view of the forest-covered valley +below. + +About half way between the point where the road leaves the Gibbon +River and that where it touches the Firehole, is the junction of the +belt line with the western approach which enters the Park by way of +Madison Cañon. A beautiful cascade, some distance from the tourist +route, may be found on the Firehole River about a mile above its +mouth. Just as the road (the old Norris Road) commences to descend +from the high plateau between the Gibbon and the Firehole, a glimpse +is had of the _Teton Mountains_. They are among the most striking in +the entire Rocky Mountain Region. For half a century after the +overland journey of the Astorians, they were the chief landmarks in +that trackless wilderness, and long bore the name of Pilot Knobs. They +are distinctly visible from every important peak in the Park, although +they are themselves outside its limits. As seen from the point, at +which we have arrived, they are fifty miles away. They rise +precipitously from the west shore of _Jackson Lake_ (also outside of +the Park) and with it form a scene of grandeur which ought to be +included in the reservation. In 1872, Langford and Stevenson ascended +the Grand Teton, being the first white men ever to reach the +summit.[BB] + +[BB] Some doubt has been expressed in recent years as to the actual +accomplishment of this feat. It probably arose from an erroneous +statement by Doctor Hayden in his report for 1872 that the granite +inclosure was found "on the top of the Grand Teton." As a matter of +fact it was found on a point somewhat lower, and is clearly so stated +by Mr. Langford both in an official report to Dr. Hayden (Hayden, +1872, p. 89) and in his "Ascent of Mt. Hayden" (Scribner's, June, +1873, p. 145). A subsequent explorer, who ascended the mountain to the +site of this principal object of interest, came to the conclusion, +doubtless as a result of the erroneous account given by Hayden, that +this was what Langford and Stevenson called the summit. But the +references above given, and a more detailed and circumstantial account +furnished by Mr. Langford at the writer's request, effectually +demolish this theory. + +[Illustration: + + _Terry Engr. Co._ _Haynes, Photo., St. Paul._ + +The Teton Range. + +The Grand Teton in the center.] + +They were astonished to find, on a point but little lower than the +main summit, a rude shelter of granite slabs evidently put in place by +human hands ages ago. + +_Nez Percé Creek_ (18 miles) is the largest branch of the Firehole, +and is of historic interest from its connection with the Indian +campaign of 1877. It forms the north boundary of the _Lower Geyser +Basin_. Two miles beyond it is the _Fountain Hotel_. + +To attempt any thing like a detailed description of the Firehole +Geyser regions would be intolerable alike to reader and author. Of the +objects of interest, any one of which in other localities would +attract marked attention, there are several thousand. In the present +description, therefore, only the more important features will be +noticed--those notable objects to see which is an indispensable part +of any well ordered tour of the Park. + +The _Fountain Geyser_ is a typical example of the first class of +geysers described in a previous chapter. Its proximity to the hotel +(one-fourth mile) causes it to be much visited. + +_The Mammoth Paint Pots_, a little way east of the Fountain, are +probably the most prominent example of this class of phenomena in the +Park. + +The _Great Fountain Geyser_ lies a mile and a half south-east of the +Fountain. It is the chief wonder of the Lower Basin, and, in some +respects, the most remarkable geyser in the Park. Its formation is +quite unlike that of any other. At first sight the visitor is tempted +to believe that some one has here placed a vast pedestal upon which to +erect a monument. It is a broad, circular table about two feet high, +composed entirely of hard siliceous deposit. In its surface are +numerous pools molded and ornamented in a manner quite unapproached, +at least on so large a scale, in any other part of the Park. In the +center of the pedestal, where the monument ought to stand, is a large +irregular pool of great depth, full of hot water, forming, to all +appearances, a lovely quiescent spring. At times of eruption, the +contents of this spring are hurled bodily upward to a height sometimes +reaching 100 feet. The torrent of water which follows the prodigious +down-pouring upon the face of the pedestal, flows away in all +directions over the white geyserite plain. No visitor to the +Yellowstone can afford to miss the Great Fountain Geyser. + +In this vicinity are several of the handsomest springs in the Park. +One in particular lies just across the hot stream which flows a little +to the south of the Great Fountain. It is shaped like an egg set +endwise in the ground with the upper part of the shell broken off. It +is an exquisite trifle. + +In a small valley, extending to the north-east from the Great +Fountain, are several objects worthy of notice. One of these is an +immense hot lake, by far the largest in the Park. _Steady Geyser_ and +_Young Hopeful_, near the head of the valley, are not remarkable in +this land of geysers. + +The principal attraction of the locality is what has come to be called +the _Firehole_. It is at the extreme upper end of the valley, +difficult to find, and unsatisfactory to visit when the wind agitates +the water surface. It is a large hot spring from the bottom of which, +to all appearances, a light colored flame is constantly issuing, only +to be extinguished in the water before it reaches the surface. At +times it has a distinct ruddy tinge and it always flickers back and +forth like the lambent flame of a torch. When seen under favorable +conditions, the illusion is perfect, and the beholder is sure that he +has at last caught a glimpse of the hidden fires which produce the +weird phenomena of this region. But it is only illusion. Through a +fissure in the rock gas or superheated steam escapes and divides the +water, just as bubbles do on a smaller scale. The reflection from the +surface thus formed accounts for the appearance, which is intensified +by the black background formed by the sides and bottom of the pool. + +The Lower Geyser Basin has an area of thirty square miles. Conspicuous +among its topographical features are the _Twin Buttes_, two prominent +peaks west of the river which dominate the entire basin. A little way +south of these is _Fairy Fall_, a pretty cascade 250 feet high. + +There will be included in this chapter, as more properly belonging to +it than to the next, a description of the _Midway Geyser Basin_. Its +principal interest lies in the stupendous character of its phenomena. + +[Illustration: + + _Terry Engr. Co._ _Haynes, Photo., St. Paul._ + +Excelsior Geyser.] + +_Excelsior Geyser_, as a dynamic agent, has no equal in the Park. It +is really a water volcano, and its eruptions have nothing of the +characteristic display of a genuine geyser. Its crater is a vast +seething cauldron close by the brink of the Firehole River, into +which, in non-eruptive periods even, it pours 4,000 gallons of water +per minute. The shape of the crater is irregular. Its dimensions are +about 330 by 200 feet, and 20 feet deep. It was not known to be a +geyser until 1878, and did not really disclose its true character +until the winter of 1881. During the remainder of that year and 1882, +it gave continuous exhibitions of its power. Its water column was more +than 50 feet in diameter, and at times rose to the enormous height of +250 feet. At such times, it doubled the volume of water in the +Firehole River. Its eruptions were frequently accompanied by the +ejection of large rocks. A second period of activity took place in +1888, since which time it has remained inactive. + +_Prismatic Lake_ is the most perfect spring of its kind in the world. +It rests on the summit of a self-built mound, sloping very gently in +all directions. Down this slope the overflow from the spring descends +in tiny rivulets, every-where interlaced with each other. A map of the +mound resembles a spider web, with the spider (the spring) in the +center. The pool is 250 by 300 feet in size. Over the lake hangs an +ever-present cloud of steam, which itself often bears a crimson tinge, +reflected from the waters below. The steam unfortunately obscures the +surface of the lake, and one involuntarily wishes for a row-boat, in +which to explore its unseen portions. Wherever visible, there is a +varied and wonderful play of colors, which fully justifies the name. + +_Turquoise Spring_ is another large pool, 100 feet in diameter, and +rivals Prismatic Lake in the beauty of its coloring. + +The Midway Geyser Basin contains hundreds of other springs, some of +them very beautiful, but the Basin is mainly noted for the three +features just described. + + + + +CHAPTER XVI. + +A TOUR OF THE PARK. + +_Lower Geyser Basin to Upper Geyser Basin._ + + +Distance, nine miles. Road follows the Firehole River. Midway Geyser +Basin, already described, is passed four miles out. No other object of +interest is met until the visitor actually arrives at the _Upper +Basin_. + +This locality is probably the most popular with the tourist of any in +the Park. Its two rivals, the Grand Cañon and the Yellowstone Lake, +are so unlike it as not to admit of any comparison. It is the home of +the genus _geyser_, as seen in its highest development. There are +fifteen examples of the first magnitude and scores of less important +ones.[BC] The quiescent pools and springs are also numerous and of +great beauty. + +[BC] For list of names of geysers, with heights of eruptions, see +Appendix A, VII. + +The first important feature _en route_ is the _Biscuit Basin_, which +is reached by a side road leading to the west bank of the Firehole +River. It contains a fine geyser and several beautiful springs. The +most interesting are the _Jewell Geyser_ and the _Sapphire Pool_. Near +this locality is the _Mystic Falls_, a fine cascade, on the Little +Firehole River. + +_Artemesia Geyser_ comes next to the attention of the tourist. It has +been known as a geyser only since 1886. It is on the right of the +roadway, at a considerably lower level. + +[Illustration: + + SKETCH MAP + OF THE + UPPER GEYSER BASIN + + _Opp. page 228._ +] + +The _Morning Glory_ is a little further up stream. In this beautiful +object the quiescent pool is at its best. Its exquisite bordering and +the deep cerulean hue of its transparent waters make it, and others +like it, objects of ceaseless admiration. + +The _Fan Geyser_ is close by the Firehole on the east bank, not far +above the Morning Glory. The _Riverside_ is also on the east bank at +the point where the road crosses the river. It is an inconspicuous +object when not in eruption, and one would scarcely suspect it of +being a geyser. It spouts obliquely across the river, and not, like +most geysers, vertically. + +[Illustration: + + _Gandy._ + +Grotto Geyser Cone.] + +Next in order, after crossing the river to the Westbank, is the +_Grotto_, remarkable for its irregular and cavernous crater. A little +further on, close to the river, stands the broken crater of one of +the Park's greatest geysers, the _Giant_. Lieutenant Doane compared +its crater to a "huge shattered horn." + +A few hundred feet further up stream, still close to the river, is the +_Oblong_. Directly across the road, but a short distance away, is the +_Splendid_, well worthy of its name; and near it, sometimes playing +simultaneously, is the _Comet_. + +To the westward from the Firehole, nearly on the divide between it and +Iron Creek, is a lovely spring, called the _Punch-bowl_. Across the +divide in the _Iron Creek_ valley is the _Black Sand Basin_, a unique +but beautiful pool. Near it is another attraction, _Specimen Lake_, so +named from an abundance of specimens of partly petrified wood. The +limit of curiosities in this direction is _Emerald Pool_, which +competent judges pronounce to be the finest quiescent spring in the +Park. + +Returning to the Firehole by a different route, we pass a large spring +or geyser known as the _Three Crater Spring_. Its three craters are +connected by narrow water ways, making one continuous pool, though fed +from three sources. + +A thousand feet to the north, stands the most imposing crater in the +Park, that of the _Castle_ geyser. It is frequently seen in moderate +eruption, but rarely when doing its best. As ordinarily seen, it +throws a column of water only 50 or 60 feet, but at times it plays as +high as 150 or 200 feet. + +[Illustration: + + _Terry Engr. Co._ _Haynes, Photo., St. Paul._ + +Castle Geyser.] + +[Illustration: + + _Terry Engr. Co._ _First sketch ever made._[BD] + +Castle Geyser Cone.] + +[BD] See foot note, page 168. + +Crossing the river to its right bank, nearly opposite the Castle, +there are found within a narrow compass three noted geysers, the +_Sawmill_, _Turban_, and _Grand_. Of these, the last is by far the +finest, and ranks among the very greatest geysers in the world. It was +not seen by the Washburn Party, in 1870, but it seems to have been the +first geyser to welcome to the Upper Basin the Hayden and Barlow +parties in 1871. Captain Barlow says of its eruption:[BE] + +"This grand fountain continued to play for several minutes. When dying +down, I approached to obtain a closer view of the aperture whence had +issued such a powerful stream. A sudden gush of steam drove me away, +following which the water was again impelled upward and upward, far +above the steam, till it seemed to have lost the controlling force of +gravity, and that it would never cease to rise. The roar was like the +sound of a tornado, but there was no apparent effort; a steady stream, +very graceful and perfectly vertical, except as a slight breeze may +have waved it to and fro. Strong and smooth, it continued to ascend +like the stream from a powerful steam fire-engine. We were all lost +in astonishment at the sudden and marvelous spectacle. The proportions +of the fountain were perfect. The enthusiasm of the party was +manifested in shouts of delight. Under the excitement of the moment, +it was estimated to be from three to five hundred feet in height." + +[BE] Page 25, "Reconnaissance of the Yellowstone River."--See Appendix +E. + +Further up the river on the same side and at some distance back, are +the _Lion_, _Lioness_ and the two _Cubs_, an interesting group, +including one notable geyser. Half way up a high mound of geyserite +which covers a large area on the north side of the river, is an +exquisitely beautiful formation called, from its appearance, the +_Sponge_. + +[Illustration: + + _Terry Engr. Co._ _Haynes, Photo., St. Paul._ + +The Bee Hive Geyser.] + +On the top of the mound is another of the great geysers, thought by +the Washburn Party to be the greatest in the world, the _Giantess_. It +belongs to the class of fountain geysers, and when not in action +strongly resembles a quiescent spring. Its eruptions are infrequent +and irregular, but when it does play it is a sight not to be +forgotten. Mr. Langford thus describes the first eruption known to +have been seen by white men:[BF] + +"We were standing on the side of the geyser nearest the sun, the +gleams of which filled the sparkling columns of water and spray with +myriad rainbows, whose arches were constantly changing--dipping and +fluttering hither and thither, and disappearing only to be succeeded +by others, again and again, amid the aqueous column, while the minute +globules, into which the spent jets were diffused when falling, +sparkled like a shower of diamonds, and around every shadow which the +denser clouds of vapor, interrupting the sun's rays, cast upon the +column, could be seen a luminous circle, radiant with all the colors +of the prism, and resembling the halo of glory represented in +paintings as encircling the head of Divinity. All that we had +previously witnessed seemed tame in comparison with the perfect +grandeur and beauty of this display." + +[BF] "The Wonders of the Yellowstone." See Appendix E. + +Between the Giantess and the river is the _Bee Hive_, also one of the +most prominent geysers. The symmetry of its cone is only surpassed by +the regularity of its water column. From an artistic point of view it +is the most perfect geyser in the Park. Its slender jet attains a +great height and is vertical and symmetrical throughout. + +Crossing again to the west bank of the stream and ascending to the +very head of the basin, we come to the last and most important of the +geysers, _Old Faithful_. Any other geyser, any five other geysers, +could be erased from the list better than part with Old Faithful. The +Giant, Giantess, Grand, Splendid, and Excelsior, have more powerful +eruptions. The Bee Hive is more artistic. The Great Fountain has a +more wonderful formation. But Old Faithful partakes in a high degree +of all these characteristics, and, in addition, has the invaluable +quality of uniform periodicity of action. It is in fact the most +perfect of all known geysers. + +To it fell the honor of welcoming civilized man to this region. It was +the first geyser named. It stands at the head of the basin and has +been happily called "The Guardian of the Valley." + +It is located in the center of an oblong mound, 145 by 215 feet at the +base, 20 by 54 feet at the summit, and about 12 feet high. The tube, +which seems to have originated in a fissure in the rock, has an inside +measurement of 2 by 6 feet. + +[Illustration: + + _Terry Engr. Co._ _U. S. Geological Survey of the Territories._ + + Castle Geyser. + + Geyser in action. + + Crater of Old Faithful. + +Upper Geyser Basin.] + +[Illustration: + + _Terry Engr. Co._ _U. S. Geological Survey of the Territories._ + +Old Faithful.] + +The ornamentation about the crater, though limited in extent, is +nowhere surpassed for beauty of form and color. In particular, the +three small pools on the north side of the crater and very close to it +are specimens of the most remarkable handiwork which Nature has +lavished upon this region. A singular fact is that the waters in these +three pools, although so close together as apparently to be subject to +the same conditions, are of different colors. Speaking of these +marvelous appearances, Lieutenant Doane says: [BG] + +"One instinctively touches the hot ledges with his hands, and sounds +with a stick the depths of the cavities in the slope, in utter doubt +of the evidence of his own eyes.... It is the most lovely inanimate +object in existence." + +[BG] Page 29, "Yellowstone Expedition of 1870." See Appendix E. + +In its eruption this geyser is equally fascinating. It always gives +ample warning, and visitors have time to station themselves where the +view will be most perfect. The graceful column rises, at first with +apparent effort, but later with evident ease, to a height of 150 feet. +The noise is simply that of a jet of water from an ordinary hose, only +in intensity corresponding to the greater flow. The steam, when +carried laterally by a gentle breeze, unfurls itself like an enormous +flag from its watery standard. The water is of crystal clearness and +the myriad drops float in the air with all manner of brilliant +effects. To quote Lieutenant Doane again: + +"Rainbows play around the tremendous fountain, the waters of which +fall about the basin in showers of brilliants, and then rush steaming +down the slopes to the river." + +The uniform periodicity of this geyser is its most wonderful and most +useful characteristic. It never fails the tourist. With an average +interval of sixty-five minutes, it varies but little either way. Night +and day, winter and summer, seen or unseen, this "tremendous fountain" +has been playing for untold ages. Only in thousands of years can its +lifetime be reckoned; for the visible work it has wrought, and its +present infinitely slow rate of progress, fairly appall the inquirer +who seeks to learn its real age. + +It is worth while, however, to note the enormous work which this +geyser daily performs. A conservative estimate, based upon an extended +series of observations made in 1878 by the United States Geological +Survey, shows that the outpour for an average eruption is not less +1,500,000 gallons, which gives 33,225,000 gallons per day. This would +supply a city of 300,000 inhabitants. The combination of conditions by +which the supply of heat and water, and the form of tube, are so +perfectly adapted to their work, that even a chronometer is scarcely +more regular in its action, is one of the miracles of nature. + +[Illustration: + + _Terry Engr. Co._ _U. S. Geological Survey of the Territories._ + +Kepler Cascade.] + + + + +CHAPTER XVII. + +A TOUR OF THE PARK. + +_Upper Geyser Basin to the Yellowstone Lake._ + + +Distance, nineteen miles. The route ascends the Firehole River to the +mouth of Spring Creek, which stream it follows to the Continental +Divide. For seven miles it then lies on the Pacific slope, after which +it descends the mountains to the Yellowstone Lake. The drive is one of +the most pleasant in the Park, and the scenery is unconventional and +wild. + +_Kepler Cascade_ (1.25 miles) is a fascinating water-fall. Lieutenant +Doane, who first wrote of it, says:[BH] + +"These pretty little falls, if located on an eastern stream, would be +celebrated in history and song; here, amid objects so grand as to +strain conception and stagger belief, they were passed without a +halt." + +[BH] Page 27, "Yellowstone Expedition of 1870." See Appendix E. + +We counsel the tourist not to so pass them. + +Half a mile up the Firehole, above the mouth of Spring Creek, is the +_Lone Star Geyser_ (4 miles). This geyser is conspicuous chiefly for +its fine cone. It plays frequently to a height of 40 or 50 feet. + +_Madison Lake_, ten miles further up the valley, is the ultimate lake +source of the Madison River. This lake, with possibly the exception of +Red Rock Lake, the source of the Jefferson, is further from the sea by +direct water-course than any other lake on the globe. + +Returning down the Firehole, we enter the mouth of _Spring Creek +Cañon_ (3.5 miles), which the road traverses for a distance of two and +one-half miles. This narrow, winding, rocky cañon, under the shadow of +the Continental Divide, is full of picturesque turns and surprises. + +[Illustration: + + _Terry Engr. Co._ _Haynes, Photo., St. Paul._ + +Lone Star Geyser.] + +The first crossing of the _Continental Divide_ (8.5 miles) is through +a narrow cañon, _Craig Pass_, hemmed in by precipitous cliffs, +inclosing a lily-covered pond, _Isa Lake_, which rests squarely upon +the doubtful ground between the two oceans. + +[Illustration: + + _Terry Engr. Co._ _Haynes, Photo., St. Paul._ + +Shoshone Lake.] + +_Shoshone Point_ (10.5 miles) is in the center of the large +amphitheater-shaped tract which is drained by the branches of _De Lacy +Creek_. It overlooks _Shoshone Lake_ and the broad basin surrounding +it, and gives a second glimpse of the Teton Mountains. + +[Illustration: + + _Terry Engr. Co._ + +Isa Lake and Craig Pass.] + +Shoshone Lake is a lovely body of water, with an area of twelve square +miles and a most picturesque shore line. On its west shore is a geyser +basin, second in importance only to those on the Firehole. Among its +many interesting features may be mentioned the _Union Geyser_, of +which the middle crater plays to a height of 100 feet; and the _Bronze +Geyser_, very striking because of the perfect metallic luster of its +formation. + +From Shoshone Point, the road again ascends to the Continental Divide, +and then drops down the Atlantic slope toward the Yellowstone Valley. + +_Lake View_ (18 miles) is at a point where a sudden turn in the forest +road brings the tourist, quite without warning, in full view of one of +the most striking water landscapes in the world. The whole vista of +the _Yellowstone Lake_ is spread out before him, still 300 feet below +where he is standing. Far to the right and left, along the distant +eastern shore, extends the _Absaroka Range_ of mountains, many of its +summits still capped with snow. Every-where the dark pine forests come +down to the water's edge, in fine contrast with the silver surface of +the lake. The sparkling of the waves, the passage of the cloud +shadows, and, in sheltered coves, the tranquil mirror of the waters, +all combine to make the picture one to be long remembered. + +The Yellowstone Lake is about 7,741 feet, nearly a mile and a half, +above the level of the sea. It has a shore line of 100 miles, and an +area of 139 square miles. Its maximum depth is 300 feet, and its +average depth about 30 feet. It is fed almost entirely from the +springs and snow drifts of the Absaroka Range. Its waters are icy +cold, clear and transparent to great depths, and literally swarm with +trout. It is subject to heavy south-west winds, and at times is lashed +into tempestuous seas. + +[Illustration: + + _Terry Engr. Co._ _U.S. Geological Survey of the Territories._ + +Yellowstone Lake.] + +The shape of the lake was compared by the early explorers to the form +of the human hand. The resemblance is exceedingly remote, and one +writer has well observed that only the hand of a base ball player who +has stood for years behind the bat could satisfy the comparison. The +"fingers" have now been generally dropped from the maps and replaced +by the usual names; but "West Thumb" seems to have become a fixture. + +Surpassing the Yellowstone Lake both in area and altitude there are +but few lakes in the world. Lake Titticaca, in Peru, and one or two +others in the less explored regions of the Andes; and also a few lakes +on the lofty table-land of Thibet, comprise the number. + +The Yellowstone Lake has been a theme of enthusiastic praise by all +who have ever seen it; but what seems to us the most exquisite tribute +it has ever received is to be found in the farewell words of Mr. +Folsom, when, in 1869, he regretfully turned away from its western +shore into the deep forests which surround it:[BI] + +"As we were about departing on our homeward trip, we ascended the +summit of a neighboring hill and took a final look at Yellowstone +Lake. Nestled among the forest-crowned hills which bounded our +visions, lay this inland sea, its crystal waves dancing and sparkling +in the sunlight as if laughing with joy for their wild freedom. It is +a scene of transcendent beauty which has been viewed by but few white +men, and we felt glad to have looked upon it before its primeval +solitude should be broken by the crowds of pleasure seekers which at +no distant day will throng its shores." + +[BI] Page 20, Langford's reprint of the "Valley of the Upper +Yellowstone." See Appendix E. + +[Illustration: + + _Terry Engr. Co._ _Gandy._ + +Fishing Cone.] + +On the west shore of the lake is an extensive and important hot +springs basin. The principal features are the _Paint Pots_, not +inferior to those near the Fountain Hotel; two of the largest and most +beautiful quiescent springs in the Park; the _Lake Shore_ Geyser, +which plays frequently to a height of about 30 feet; an unnamed geyser +of considerable power but of very infrequent action; and the +celebrated _Fishing Cone_ where unfortunate trout find catching and +cooking painfully near together. + +From the west shore of the lake a visit can be advantageously made to +_Hart Lake_ and _Mount Sheridan_. The lake is probably the prettiest +in the Park. Near it, on the tributary _Witch Creek_, is a small but +important geyser basin. The principal features are the _Deluge_, +_Spike_ and _Rustic_ geysers, and the _Fissure Group_ of springs. The +Rustic Geyser is remarkable in having about it a cordon of logs, +evidently placed there by the Indians or white men many years ago. The +logs are completely incrusted with the deposits of the springs. + +Mt. Sheridan would rank with Mt. Washburn as a popular peak for +mountain climbers were it only more accessible. No summit in the Park +affords a finer prospect. + +From the west shore to the Lake Outlet the tourist may travel either +by stage around the border of the lake, or by boat across it. If he +does not want to miss one of the notable features of the tour he will +not omit the boat ride. In fact, a steamboat ride, at an altitude more +than a quarter of a mile greater than that of the summit of Mt. +Washington is not an every day diversion. From near the center of the +lake the view is surpassingly fine. To the south and south-west the +long arms of the lake penetrate the dark forest-crowned hills, which +are but stepping stones to the lofty mountains behind them. Far beyond +these may again be seen for the third time the familiar peaks of the +Tetons. All along the eastern shore stand the serried peaks of the +Absaroka Range, the boundary which nature has so well established +along the eastern border of the Park. A notable feature of this range +is the profile of a human face formed by the superimposed contours of +two mountains, one several miles behind the other. The best effect is +had from points between _Stevenson Island_ and the _Lake Hotel_. The +face is looking directly upward. A similar profile, noted by the +early explorers from the summit of Mt. Washburn, and nearly in the +same locality as this, although of course not the same feature, was +called by them the "Giant's Face," or the "Old Man of the Mountain." + +[Illustration: + + _Terry Engr. Co._ _Gandy._ + +Natural Bridge.] + +On the north-east shore of the lake are _Steamboat Spring_, and other +thermal phenomena worth visiting. From _Bridge Bay_ at the north-west +of the lake, a trip of a mile will take the tourist to an extremely +interesting freak of nature in the form of a _Natural Bridge_ over a +small tributary of Bridge Creek. The arch is forty-one feet high with +a thirty foot span. As seen from the down stream side it is very +regular and symmetrical. + +Some twenty miles above the head of the lake is the celebrated +_Two-Ocean Pass_, long known to the early trappers. It is probably the +most remarkable example of such a phenomenon in the world. Although +the fact of its existence was asserted and stoutly maintained by +Bridger for many years prior to the discovery of the Park region, it +was generally disbelieved until Captain Jones crossed the pass in +1873. It has since been visited and described by Hayden in 1878, by +Hague in 1884, and by Prof. Evermann of the United States Fish +Commission in 1891. The following facts and map are taken from Prof. +Evermann's report: + +[Illustration: + + _Terry Engr. Co._ + +Sketch of Two-Ocean Pass.] + +The pass is in a nearly level grassy park hemmed in by the surrounding +hills, and is 8,150 feet above the level of the sea. Its extreme +length is about one mile and its extreme breadth about three-fourths +of a mile. From the north a stream issues from a cañon, _a_, and +divides at _b_, part flowing to Atlantic Creek and part to Pacific +Creek. A similar stream, _c_, with a similar division, _d_, comes from +the south. At extreme low water, these divisions may possibly +disappear and all the water flow either one way or the other. But at +ordinary and high stages the water flows both ways. These streams are +by no means insignificant rivulets, but substantial water-courses +capable of affording passage to fish of considerable size. + +Here, then, we have the very interesting phenomenon of a single stream +upon the summit of the continent dividing and flowing part one way and +part the other, and forming a continuous water connection between the +Atlantic and Pacific Oceans over a distance of nearly 6,000 miles. + +A most singular and interesting acoustic phenomenon of this region, +although rarely noticed by tourists, is the occurrence of strange and +indefinable overhead sounds. They have long been noted by explorers, +but only in the vicinity of Shoshone and Yellowstone Lakes. They seem +to occur in the morning, and to last only for a moment. They have an +apparent motion through the air, the general direction noted by +writers being from north to south. The following descriptions are from +the pens of those who have given some study to these strange sounds. +Prof. S. A. Forbes says: + +"It put me in mind of the vibrating clang of a harp lightly and +rapidly touched high up above the tree tops, or the sound of many +telegraph wires swinging regularly and rapidly in the wind, or, more +rarely, of faintly heard voices answering each other overhead. It +begins softly in the remote distance, draws rapidly near with louder +and louder throbs of sound, and dies away in the opposite direction; +or it may seem to wander irregularly about, the whole passage lasting +from a few seconds to half a minute or more."[BJ] + +[BJ] "Overhead sounds in the vicinity of Yellowstone Lake." See +Appendix E. + +Mr. Edwin Linton thus describes it: + +"It seemed to begin at a distance, grow louder overhead where it +filled the upper air, and suggested a medley of wind in the tops of +pine trees, and in telegraph wires, the echo of bells after being +repeated several times, the humming of a swarm of bees, and two or +three other less definite sources of sound, making in all a composite +which was not loud, but easily recognized, and not at all likely to be +mistaken for any other sound in these mountain solitudes."[BK] + +[BK] "Overhead sounds in the vicinity of Yellowstone Lake." See +Appendix E. + +No rational explanation has ever been advanced for this remarkable +phenomenon. Its weird character is in keeping with its strange +surroundings. In other lands and times it would have been an object of +superstitious reverence or dread, and would have found a permanent +place in the traditions of the people. + + + + +CHAPTER XVIII. + +A TOUR OF THE PARK. + +_The Yellowstone Lake to Grand Cañon of the Yellowstone._ + + +Distance seventeen miles. The road follows the Yellowstone River along +the west bank all the way. + +Just after the tourist leaves the Lake Hotel, he will see on the right +of the roadway a small monument. It was placed there, in 1893, by the +United States Corps of Engineers to mark a position accurately +determined from astronomical observations by the United States Coast +and Geodetic Survey in 1892. It is of value as a point of reference in +surveys and other similar work.[BL] + +[BL] Latitude, 44° 33' 16.1" north. + Longitude, 110° 23' 43.1" west. + Magnetic variation about 19° east. + +_Mud Volcano_ (7.5 miles) is a weird, uncanny object, but, +nevertheless, a very fascinating feature and one which the tourist +should stop and examine. It is an immense funnel-shaped crater in the +side of a considerable hill on the west bank of the river. The mud +rises some distance above a large steam vent in the side of the crater +next the hill, and chokes the vent until the steam has accumulated in +sufficient force to lift the superincumbent mass. As the imprisoned +steam bursts forth, it hurls the mud with great violence against the +opposite side of the crater, making a heavy thud which is audible for +half a mile. These outbursts take place every few seconds. + +[Illustration: + + _Terry Engr. Co._ _Haynes, Photo., St. Paul._ + +Yellowstone River, between Lake and Falls.] + +A striking example of the strange commingling of dissimilar features +in the hot springs districts is found in the _Grotto_, a spring of +perfectly clear water, not far from the Mud Volcano. It is acted upon +by the steam in a manner precisely similar to that of the Mud Volcano, +but its waters issue directly from the rock, and are entirely clear. + +_Mud Geyser_, now rarely seen in action, was an important geyser +twenty years ago. As it became infrequent in its eruptions, and +tourists rarely saw them, the name was unconsciously, but mistakenly, +transferred to the Mud Volcano, which has none of the characteristics +of a geyser. + +The locality where these objects are found has considerable historic +interest. The ford just below the Mud Volcano was long used by the +hunters and trappers who passed up and down the river. Folsom crossed +it in 1869, and the Washburn party in 1870. The Nez Percés encamped +here two days, in 1877, and here transpired a part of the episode +elsewhere related. Hither came General Howard, in pursuit of the +Indians, although he did not cross the river at this point. + +_Trout Creek_ (9.5 miles) has a most peculiar feature, where the +tourist route crosses it, in the form of an extraordinary doubling of +the channel upon itself. It was this stream which Mr. Hedges, in 1870, +called "a lazy creek coiled up like a monster serpent under a sand +bluff." + +_Sulphur Mountain_ (11.5 miles) is half a mile back from the main +route. At its base is a remarkable _Sulphur Spring_, always in a +state of violent ebullition, although discharging only a small amount +of water. This is highly impregnated with sulphur, and leaves a yellow +border along the rivulet which carries it away. The best time to visit +Sulphur Mountain is on a clear sharp morning. The myriad little steam +vents which cover the surface of the hill are then very noticeable. + +_Hayden Valley_ is a broad grassy expanse extending several miles +along the river and far back from it on the west side. It was once a +vast arm of the lake. It comprises some fifty square miles, and is an +important winter range for the Park buffalo and elk. + +[Illustration: + + _Terry Engr. Co._ _Gandy._ + +Rapids Above Falls.] + +[Illustration: + + _Terry Engr. Co._ _U. S. Geological Survey of the Territories._ + +Upper Fall of the Yellowstone. + +Distant view.] + +The river along the lower portion of this valley is the most tranquil +and lovely stream imaginable--broad, deep, transparent, flowing +peacefully around its graceful curves, disturbed only by the splashing +trout which inhabit it. There is little here to suggest the mad +turmoil into which it is soon to plunge. At a point fifteen miles +below the lake, the river and road are forced by the narrowing valley +close together. The stream becomes suddenly broken into turbulent +cascades as it dashes violently between precipitous banks and among +massive boulders. + +The road also becomes decidedly picturesque. Hung up on the almost +vertical cliff overlooking the rapids, it forms a short drive +unsurpassed for interest anywhere else in the Park. At one point it +crosses a deep ravine over the highest bridge on the road system. Just +to the left of this bridge, in the bottom of the ravine, still stands +the tree upon which some white man carved his initials away back in +1819. + +Half a mile below the head of the rapids, the river suddenly contracts +its width to less than fifty feet, turns abruptly to the right, and +disappears. It is the _Upper Fall_ of the Yellowstone. In some +respects, this cataract differs from almost any other. Although the +ledge over which it falls is apparently perpendicular, the velocity of +flow at the crest of the fall is so great that the water pours over as +if on the surface of a wheel. Visitors at Niagara have noticed the +difference in this respect between the almost vertical sheet of water +on the American side and the well-rounded flow at the apex of the +Horseshoe Fall. The height of the Upper Fall of the Yellowstone is 112 +feet. + +From this point, the character of the scenery is wild and rugged. A +ride of a few hundred yards brings the tourist to a sharp bend in the +road, which at once unfolds to him the whole vista of the _Grand Cañon +of_ _the Yellowstone_. The sight is so impressive and absorbing that +the chances are he will cross the ravine of _Cascade Creek_ without +even noticing the lovely _Crystal Falls_ almost beneath his feet. + +[Illustration: + + _Terry Engr. Co._ + +Original Sketch.[BM] + +[BM] See foot-note, page 168.] + +[Illustration: + + _Terry Engr. Co._ _U. S. Geological Survey of the Territories._ + +Grand Cañon of the Yellowstone. + +Looking down--probably from Lookout Point.] + +[Illustration: + + _Terry Engr. Co._ _Haynes, Photo., St. Paul._ + +Grand Cañon of the Yellowstone. + +From Inspiration Point--looking up stream. Lower Fall in the +distance.] + +The _Cañon Hotel_ is half a mile beyond Cascade Creek, in an open +park, a little way back from the brink of the Cañon. From its porch, +the crest of the Upper Fall can be seen, and the roar of both +cataracts is distinctly audible. This hotel and that at the lake are +the most desirable in the Park for a protracted stay. + +The Grand Cañon of the Yellowstone is acknowledged by all beholders to +stand without parallel among the natural wonders of the globe. Other +cañons, the Yosemite, for example, have greater depths and more +imposing walls; but there are none which, in the words of Captain +Ludlow, "unite more potently the two requisites of majesty and +beauty." The cañon itself is vast. A cross-section in the largest part +measures 2,000 feet at the top, 200 feet at the bottom, and is 1,200 +feet deep, giving an area of over three acres. But such a gorge in any +other part of the world would not be what it is here. Its sides would +soon be clothed with vegetation, and it would be simply an immense +valley, beautiful, no doubt, but not what it is in the Yellowstone +National Park. + +There are three distinct features which unite their peculiar glories +to enhance the beauty of this cañon. These are the cañon itself, the +water-fall at its head, and the river below. + +It is the volcanic rock through which the river has cut its way that +gives the Grand Cañon its distinctive character. It is preëminently a +cañon of color. The hue has no existence which can not be found there. +"Hung up and let down and spread abroad are all the colors of the +land, sea, and sky," says Talmage, without hyperbole. From the dark, +forest-bordered brink, the sides descend for the most part with the +natural slope of the loose rock, but frequently broken by vertical +ledges and isolated pinnacles, which give a castellated and romantic +air to the whole. Eagles build their nests here, and soar midway +through the vast chasm, far below the beholder. The more prominent of +the projecting ledges cause many turns in the general course of the +cañon, and give numerous vantage places for sight-seeing. _Lookout +Point_ is one of these, half a mile below the Lower Falls. +_Inspiration Point_, some two miles farther down, is another. The +gorgeous coloring of the cañon walls does not extend through its +entire length of twenty miles. In the lower portion, the forests have +crept well down to the water's edge. Still, it is every-where an +extremely beautiful and impressive sight. Along the bottom of the +cañon, numerous steam vents can be seen, one of which, it is said, +exhibits geyseric action. In places, the cañon walls almost shut out +the light of day from the extreme bottom. Lieutenant Doane, who made +the dangerous descent several miles below the Falls, records that "it +was about three o'clock P. M., and stars could be distinctly seen, so +much of the sunlight was cut off from entering the chasm." + +The _Lower Fall_ of the Yellowstone must be placed in the front rank +of similar phenomena. It carries not one-twentieth the water of +Niagara, but Niagara is in no single part so beautiful. Its height is +310 feet. Its descent is very regular, slightly broken by a point of +rock on the right bank. A third of the fall is hidden behind the vast +cloud of spray which forever conceals the mad play of the waters +beneath; but the mighty turmoil of that recess in the rocks may be +judged from the deep-toned thunder which rises in ceaseless cadence +and jars the air for miles around. + +[Illustration: + + _Terry Engr. Co._ _Haynes, Photo., St. Paul._ + +Lower Fall of the Yellowstone--from below.] + +[Illustration: + + _Terry Engr. Co._ + +Original Sketch.[BN] + +[BN] See foot-note, page 168.] + +To many visitors the stream far down in the bottom of the cañon is the +crowning beauty of the whole scene. It is so distant that its rapid +course is diminished to the gentlest movement, and its continuous roar +to the subdued murmur of the pine forests. Its winding, hide-and-seek +course, its dark surface when the shadows cover it, its bright limpid +green under the play of the sunlight, its ever recurring foam-white +patches, and particularly its display of life where all around is +silent and motionless, make it a thing of entrancing beauty to all who +behold it. + +It is not strange that this cañon has been a theme for writer, +painter, and photographer, from its discovery to the present time. But +at first thought it is strange that all attempts to portray its +beauties are less satisfactory than those pertaining to any other +feature of the Park. The artist Moran acknowledged that "its beautiful +tints were beyond the reach of human art;" and General Sherman said of +this artist's celebrated effort: "The painting by Moran in the Capitol +is good, but painting and words are unequal to the subject." + +In photography, the number of pictures by professional and amateur +artists, that have been made of this cañon is prodigious. But +photography can only reproduce the form, it is powerless in the +presence of such an array of colors as here exists. + +[Illustration: + + _Terry Engr. Co._ _Haynes, Photo., St. Paul._ + +Lower Fall of the Yellowstone--from above.] + +[Illustration: + + _Terry Engr. Co._ _Haynes, Photo., St. Paul._ + +Grand Cañon in Winter. + +Probably from Lookout Point.] + +The pen itself is scarcely more effective than the pencil or camera. +Folsom, who first wrote of the cañon, frankly owned that "language is +entirely inadequate to convey a just conception of the awful grandeur +and sublimity of this masterpiece of nature's handiwork." Time has +shown this confession to be substantially true. From the clumsy work +of the casual newspaper scribe, to the giddy flight of that eminent +clergyman, who fancied he saw in this cañon a suitable hall for the +great judgment, with the nations of the earth filing along the bottom +upon waters "congealed and transfixed with the agitations of that +day," all descriptions do injustice to their subject. They fall short +of their mark or overreach it. They are not true to nature. We shall +therefore pass them by, with one exception, and shall commend our +readers to a study of this great wonderwork from the pine-clad verge +of the Grand Cañon itself. + +The exception to which reference is made relates to the Grand Cañon in +winter. It has been explained in another place why it is that the +winter scenery of the Park must ever remain a sealed book except to +those few hardy adventurers who are willing to brave the perils of +winter travel in that region. It is a pleasure, therefore, to give at +first hand what one of those intrepid spirits felt as he stood upon +Lookout Point less than two years ago, and saw the famous cañon clad +in its annual mantle of white. He says:[BO] + +"I suppose thousands have stood grasping the stem of that same sturdy, +ragged tree, and have looked in silence as we did. They have seen the +cañon in summer, and I wish they might all see it also in the depth of +winter. Now the glorious colors of the walls were gone, but the peaks +and crosses and pinnacles were there, free of all color, but done in +clean, perfect white. It was "frozen music"--the diapason of nature's +mightiest and most mysterious anthem all congealed in white, visible, +palpable, authentic. No thinking man could stand there and not feel +the exalted and compelling theme go thrilling to his heart." + +[BO] E. Hough, in _Forest and Stream_, June 30, 1894, p. 553. + +[Illustration: + + _Terry Engr. Co._ _U. S. Geological Survey._ + +Granite Block, near Inspiration Point.] + +Back perhaps a quarter of a mile from Inspiration Point, but within +fifty yards of the brink of the cañon, is a huge rectangular block of +granite which rests alone in the woods, a most singular and striking +object. It is evidently an intruder in unfamiliar territory, for there +is not a particle of granite outcrop known to exist within twenty +miles. It must have been transported to this place from some distant +quarry by the powerful agencies of the Glacial Epoch. + +To the eastward from the Grand Cañon are several interesting hot +springs districts, and there is one notable group at the southern base +of Mount Washburn. + + + + +CHAPTER XIX. + +A Tour of the Park. + +_The Grand Cañon of the Yellowstone to Junction Valley._ + + +Distance twenty-two miles.[BP] From the Grand Cañon north lies the +true scenic portion of the tourist route. Hitherto, the main +attractions have been the geyser basins, the Yellowstone Lake, and the +Grand Cañon. The tourist has probably frequently expressed his +disappointment at not finding as much rugged mountain scenery as he +had expected. But from this point on he will have no cause to +complain. + +[BP] The distances given in this chapter are only approximate, the +surveys for a wagon road from the cañon to Mammoth Hot Springs, via +Mt. Washburn, not being yet completed. + +_Mt. Washburn_ (12 miles) is the most celebrated peak in the Park, and +the first to receive its present name. Its prominence justifies its +notoriety, but the real cause of it is the fact that for eight years +the main tourist route lay across it. From its summit the Washburn +party received the first definite confirmation of the truth of the +rumors that led them into this region. All reports and magazine +articles which first gave a knowledge of the Park to the world were +written by persons who had crossed this mountain. As the view from its +summit is comprehensive and grand, covering almost the entire Park, it +of course figured prominently in all narratives. Tourists fell into +the custom established by the first explorers, of leaving their +cards in a receptacle for the purpose on the summit. Many eminent +names are to be seen there. It is a matter for congratulation that the +progress upon the road system will soon restore this mountain to its +former place in the tourist route. + +[Illustration: + + _Terry Engr. Co._ _U. S. Geological Survey of the Territories._ + +Tower Falls.] + +_Tower Falls_ (20 miles) is perhaps the most graceful cataract in the +Park, and should never be passed without a visit. It is on Tower Creek +only a short distance back from the Yellowstone. Lieutenant Doane says +in his report:[BQ] + +"Nothing can be more chastely beautiful than this lovely cascade, +hidden away in the dim light of overshadowing rocks and woods, its +very voice hushed to a low murmur, unheard at the distance of a few +hundred yards. Thousands might pass by within a half mile and not +dream of its existence; but once seen, it passes to the list of most +pleasant memories." + +[BQ] Page 8, "Yellowstone Expedition of 1870." See Appendix E. + +Near this point on both banks of the river are numerous sulphur +fumaroles, the last evidence of subterraneous fire which the tourist +will encounter on his trip. A little way above the mouth of the stream +is the old Bannock Ford, the same by which Colter crossed in 1807. It +is the only practicable ford within twenty miles in either direction. + +_Junction Butte_ (22 miles) is on the right bank of the Yellowstone in +the angle between that stream and the East Fork. It stands not only +near one of the most important stream junctions in the Park, but also +near a not less important road junction. It is a very striking object. +Its summit is nearly flat, and its sides near the summit are +perpendicular. Below this is a steep slope composed of enormous masses +of finely broken stone disengaged from the cliff by the force of the +elements. It is a fitting landmark for its important situation. + +[Illustration: + + _Terry Engr. Co_ _U. S. Geological Survey of the Territories._ + +First Bridge Over the Yellowstone.] + +_Baronett's Bridge_ crosses the river immediately opposite Junction +Butte. It is the first and only bridge yet (1895) built across the +Yellowstone within the limits of the Park. It was built by the well +known mountaineer, J. H. Baronett, in the spring of 1871, for the +convenience of Clark's Fork miners. It was partially destroyed by the +Nez Percés in 1877, but was repaired by Howard's command, and still +further repaired the following year by Baronett and Norris. In 1880, +it was replaced by a more substantial structure. At present it enjoys +the unique distinction of being a private toll bridge on a government +reservation. + +_Junction Valley_,[BR] described elsewhere, is a name properly +applicable to the valley inclosed by Crescent Hill, Mt. Washburn, +Specimen Ridge, and the mountains north of Lamar River. This valley, +and those of tributary streams, form the largest treeless tract in the +Park. + +[BR] The popular name for this locality is "Yancey's," from John +Yancey, who has long held a lease in the Valley of Lost Creek at the +foot of Crescent Hill. He has kept a sort of hotel or stopping place +for the convenience of travelers to Cooke City, as well as for +tourists between the Grand Cañon and Mammoth Hot Springs by way of Mt. +Washburn. + +_Amethyst Mountain_, _Specimen Ridge_, and the _Fossil Forests_ are +names at once suggestive of the action of geological agencies which +have been described in another chapter. Amethyst, limpid quartz, milky +quartz, chalcedony, carnelian, prase, chrysoprase, banded agate, +flint, jaspers of all colors, semi-opal, calcite, and many other +varieties abound. The forest petrifactions present one of the most +interesting scientific problems in the Park. + +The _Lamar River Cañon_ (7 miles above Junction Butte) is a gorge +about half a mile long, the chief characteristic of which is the +enormous number and size of boulders which have fallen into it. These +are almost spherical in shape, and, in many instances, are as smooth +as if from the hand of a stone glazier. They are piled up like +billiard balls, to such a depth that the stream flows entirely out of +sight beneath them.[BS] + +[BS] Above the head of this cañon are the remains of what seems to +have once been a bridge, but no record concerning it has come to the +writer's notice. + +_Soda Butte_ (15 miles above Junction Butte) and _Soda Butte Cañon_, +extending from Soda Butte to Cooke City, are worthy of much attention. +The cañon in particular is as wonderful a bit of scenery as any +mountains afford. It is every-where rugged, majestic and imposing, and +there is no point in its twelve miles length that does not present a +landscape deserving of the tourist's careful study. Mr. W. H. Weed, +who has done much work in the Park, and particularly in this section, +says of this valley: + +"To the eastward Soda Butte Valley penetrates the heart of the rugged +Sierra, whose high peaks rise in castellated forms. The visitor, +disappointed perhaps in the mountain scenery of the Park, after +traveling the usual route over the dusty roads of the Park plateau, +will here find mountain views that are sure to fulfill his +expectations, while the neighborhood is not lacking in curiosities +that in another land would attract visitors from far and wide."[BT] + +[BT] Fossil Forests of the Yellowstone. See Appendix E. + +_Cooke City_ is a small mining camp just outside the north-east corner +of the Park in the midst of the Clark's Fork mining district. It is of +interest in this connection only on account of its notorious hostility +to the Yellowstone National Park. + +_Death Gulch_, reputed to exist in the valley of Cache Creek, is like +Bridger's Glass Mountain, mostly a product of the imagination. It +seems that some animals were once poisoned there, and that later, +certain explorers, finding them, attributed their death to an escape +of carbonic acid gas from the earth. The name has found its way into +maps and reports of highest authority, but the object itself has no +existence. + +The _Hoodoo Region_ is near the head of Miller Creek just outside the +original reservation, although within the Forest Reserve addition. +This mysterious region furnishes probably the most striking example in +existence of the effects of erosion and wind action upon masses of +moderately soft rock. The region was discovered by miners in 1870, but +was first explored and reported upon by Colonel Norris in 1880, who +thus describes it:[BU] + +"Nearly every form, animate or inanimate, real or chimerical, ever +actually seen or conjured by the imagination, may here be observed. +Language does not suffice to properly describe these peculiar +formations; sketches may probably do something, and photographs more, +to convey a conception of their remarkable character, but actual +observation is absolutely necessary to adequately impress the mind +with the wild, unearthly appearance of these eroded Hoodoos of the +Goblin Land. These monuments are from fifty to two or three hundred +feet in height, with narrow, tortuous passages between them, which +sometimes are tunnels through permanent snow or ice fields, where the +big-horn sheep hide in safety; while the ceaseless but ever changing +moans of the wild winds seem to chant fitting requiems to these +gnome-like monuments of the legendary Indian gods." + +[BU] Page 8, Annual Report, Superintendent of the Park, for the year +1880. + +Returning to Junction Valley, and following down the Yellowstone, the +tourist soon arrives at the _Third Cañon_ (the third above Livingston, +the Grand Cañon being fourth), which extends from the eastern limit of +Junction Valley to the north boundary of the Park. Located anywhere +else, away from the overshadowing splendor of the Grand Cañon, it +would become celebrated. Some of the views, particularly from the high +ground north of Mt. Everts, overlooking by nearly 2,000 feet the vast +chasm through which the turbulent river flows, are among the most +impressive in the entire region. + +From the immediate vicinity of the Third Cañon, the road crosses the +plateau of Black Tail Deer Creek to the valley of the East Gardiner. +The tour terminates at Mammoth Hot Springs. + + + + +PART III.--The Future. + + + + +CHAPTER I. + +HOSTILITY TO THE PARK. + + +From what has been thus far set forth the reader can not have failed +to observe how fortunate have been the events, both in prehistoric and +in recent times, which have made the Yellowstone National Park what it +is to-day. In the course of long ages Nature developed this region +into its present attractive form, and filled it with wonders which +will never fail to command the admiration of men. She placed it upon +the very apex of the continent, and made of it an inexhaustible +reservoir of water for a perennial supply to the parched and rainless +desert around it. She interspersed among its forests an abundance of +parks and valleys, where the native fauna of the continent, elsewhere +fast passing away, may find protection in all future time. With +infinite foresight she made it unfit for the gainful occupations of +men, so that every motive to appropriate it for private use is +removed. + +For many years after the white man first looked within its borders, a +rare combination of circumstances prevailed to keep it from becoming +generally known until the time had arrived when the government could +effectually reserve it from settlement. Finally, since its formal +erection into a public park, the same good fortune has attended it, in +spite of many adverse influences, until it has become thoroughly +intrenched in the good opinion of the people. + +So fully has the experience of the past quarter century confirmed the +wisdom of setting apart this region for public uses, that it ought no +longer to be necessary to say a word in favor of its continued +preservation. To most people it will seem impossible that there should +be any one who would seek the mutilation or destruction of this +important reservation. Unfortunately there are many such. No session +of Congress for twenty years has been free from attempted legislation +hostile to the Park. The schemes to convert it into an instrument of +private greed have been many, and strange as it may seem, they are +invariably put forward by those very communities to whom the Park is, +and must ever remain, the chief glory of their section. It is a +lamentable proof of the dearth of patriotic spirit that always betrays +itself whenever the interests of individuals and of the public come +into collision. Nevertheless it is a great satisfaction to know that +this spirit of hostility is confined to an infinitesimal portion of +the whole people. Excepting a few mine owners and their following, a +handful of poachers, one or two railroad corporations, and a few +greedy applicants for special franchises, the people of the country +are a unit in favor of the strictest preservation of this great +national pleasure ground. No better proof of this can be had than the +fact that the Park has successfully withstood for so long a period +every attack that has been made upon it. + +It will not do, however, to assume that, because these schemes have +hitherto failed, they will always continue to fail. Since they have +their origin in speculative ventures, they will be put forward so long +as they offer the least pecuniary inducement. The certainty of this, +and the danger of their ultimate success, justify the assignment of a +brief space to a consideration of this subject. + + + + +CHAPTER II. + +RAILROAD ENCROACHMENT AND CHANGE OF BOUNDARY. + + +Nearly all of the enterprises that have been put forward in opposition +to the true interests of the Reservation partake of the nature of +railroad encroachment. Without entering into the merits of particular +projects, it will be sufficient to explain in general terms the +reasons why the government has always opposed them. + +Railroads in the Yellowstone Park are objectionable because: + +(1.) They will mar, and in places destroy, that natural condition +which is one of its greatest charms. From the first it has been the +wish of those who know any thing of the Yellowstone that it should +remain as nature made it. The instructions of the Interior Department +to the first Superintendent of the Park, two months after the Act of +Dedication became a law, thus announced the policy of the government +upon this subject: + +"It is not the desire of the Department that any attempts shall be +made to beautify or adorn this reservation, but merely to preserve +from injury or spoliation the timber, mineral deposits, and various +curiosities of that region, so far as possible, in their natural +condition." + +It requires no argument to show that nothing would so interfere with +this natural condition as the construction of a railroad through that +country; and the danger involved in these projects early became +apparent to all who were well acquainted with the situation. As early +as 1883, Lieutenant Kingman thus refers to this subject in his annual +report, wherein he describes his proposed road system for the Park: + +"The plan for improvement which I have submitted is given in the +earnest hope and upon the supposition that it [the Park] will be +preserved as nearly as may be as the hand of nature left it--a source +of pleasure to all who visit it, and a source of wealth to no one. If +the Park ever becomes truly popular and national, it will be when the +people come to know and appreciate its delightful summer climate, the +wonderful efficiency of its baths and its mineral waters, as well as +the natural wonders, beauties and curiosities to be seen there. Then, +if there are numerous small, quiet hotels scattered here and there +throughout the Park, where visitors can have plain and simple +accommodations at moderate prices, the overworked and the sick, as +well as the curious, will come here, not to be awed by the great falls +and astounded by the geysers, and then to go away, but will come here +and will remain for weeks and months, and will find what they seek, +rest, recreation and health. But if it ever becomes the resort of +fashion, if its forests are stripped to rear mammoth hotels, if the +race-course, the drinking saloon and gambling-table invade it, if its +valleys are scarred by railroads, and its hills pierced by tunnels, if +its purity and quiet are destroyed and broken by the noise and smoke +of the locomotive; ... then it will cease to belong to the whole +people, and will interest only those that it helps to enrich, and +will be unworthy the care and protection of the National Government." + +The history of the twelve years since the above was written confirms +in every point this forcible presentation of the case. + +(2.) Railroads will unavoidably seriously cripple the present tourist +routes. They must of necessity occupy the valleys. But it is through +these that the tourist route passes, and it is frequently the case +that they are not wide enough for both. In many cases the roadway +would be forced back upon the hills, and in others its present +location would have to be changed. It is certain that the admirable +system of roads, which the government is slowly working out, would +receive irreparable injury at the hands of any railroad which might be +built through that region. + +(3.) Railroads would mean the inevitable destruction of the large +game. The winter snows are too deep among the hills for game to +subsist there. It is necessary to come down into the valleys, where +there is more grass and less snow. But, as already stated, it is +through these valleys that railroads must pass if at all. The trains +would frighten the animals back into the hills, where starvation would +await them. Moreover, the loss of game from poaching would be greatly +aggravated by the increased facility of clandestine access to that +region. + +(4.) Railroads would destroy the Park forests. During July, August, +and September, there are always long periods of dry weather when the +dense bodies of fallen timber, the impenetrable tangles of underbrush, +and the luxuriant prairie grass are a mass of inflammable tinder. A +spark converts it into a conflagration. A railroad winding its way +through this country would render protection against fires, even now a +matter of great difficulty, wholly out of the question. Referring to +this subject in his annual report for 1894, the Superintendent of the +Park says: + +"Six months from the entrance of the first locomotive within the +limits of the Park, there will not be one acre of its magnificent +forests left unburned." + +What such a catastrophe would mean to the future development of the +surrounding country may be appreciated by a perusal of our chapter on +the Flora of the Yellowstone. + +(5.) As a matter of public policy, the granting of a railway franchise +in the Park is objectionable because it necessarily creates a +perpetual monopoly of a public privilege. There is no practicable way +to avoid it. It has been proposed to compel the railroad to share the +advantage of this monopoly with the public, by paying a certain +percentage of earnings on its Park business to constitute an +improvement fund. With Union Pacific history fresh in the public mind, +the government will not be likely to enter into a partnership of that +precarious nature. + +From the foregoing exposition, it is clear that only the most cogent +reasons should ever sanction the construction of railroads in the +Yellowstone Park. These reasons, from the standpoint of the railroad +companies, as set forth by the promoters of a recent bill before +Congress, fall under two heads. + +In the first place, it is speciously urged that a railroad would +render the Park more accessible, cheapen the cost of visiting it, and +make it fulfill more perfectly its original design as a park for the +people. To all this it may be replied that the people do not want the +improvement at the price they must pay for it. By an almost unanimous +voice they oppose it. It is true that the Park is not as accessible as +one might wish it to be, or as it soon will be. But to make it easily +accessible, it is by no means necessary that a railroad should pass +through it. A line touching the southern boundary and communicating +with the central portions of the country would answer every practical +purpose. The pretext that a railroad across the Reservation will +greatly aid the tourist is erroneous. The points of interest are so +scattered about that a coach would be in any case a necessity, and all +the railroad would really save to the tourist would be the distance +from the boundary to the belt line. + +Neither will such a railroad materially lessen the cost of a visit, +which has always been, and will always be, in the main, getting _to_ +that region. The Reservation is 1,500 miles from the center of +population of the country, and it is this remote location that makes +visiting it cost. The outlay after getting there is trifling in +comparison with that of coming and going. Whether a railroad pass +though the Park, or simply touch its southern border, will not +appreciably affect this principal item. + +In the second place, it is urged that the Park stands directly in the +path of the railroads and so "acts as a blockade to the development of +three large states." As this will always form the staple argument for +granting a right-of-way for railroads across the Reservation, it will +be well to scrutinize it somewhat carefully. + +It is not at all a question of whether the country about the Park is +at present sufficiently supplied with railroads. The important +question is: Will any portion of this territory be better served by a +railroad that may be built across the Reservation than by one coming +from another direction? The most superficial examination of the map, +even by one not personally acquainted with the country, will answer +this question in the negative. The Yellowstone Valley on the north, +the Bighorn Valley on the east, the Jackson Lake country on the south, +and the Madison and Henry Fork Valleys on the west, find their natural +outlets by routes not passing through the Yellowstone Park. A railroad +entering the Park on one side through a lofty wall of mountains, and +leaving it on the other through a similar wall, after traversing the +inclosed plateau for a distance of perhaps seventy-five or one hundred +miles, would be almost as much lost to the country outside as if for +this whole distance it were built through a tunnel. In fact, the true +welfare both of the Park and of the surrounding country would be best +served by a line passing through the Wind River Valley, across one of +the easy passes into the Valley of the Snake, and thence along the +southern border of the Park, past Jackson Lake and the northern spur +of the Teton Range, into the valleys of Idaho and Montana. This would +give the Park a needed southern approach, and would directly serve a +vast tract of territory. Tributary either to this line, or to one +north of the Park, or to both, another would soon be built along the +extensive Valley of the Bighorn. No imaginable route across the +National Park could so well subserve both local and public interests. + +From an engineering point of view, the Yellowstone Park is poor +railroad country. It could be crossed, to be sure, but not easily, and +not at all except by monopolizing portions of the tourist route. The +long winter season of nearly seven months would interpose an almost +insuperable obstacle to the successful operation of any line which +might be built. We quote again from the report of the Park +Superintendent for the year 1894: + +"The great amount of moisture furnished by the lake and its numerous +tributaries gives a mantle of snow that will average fifteen feet in +depth, and with the strong winds prevailing in this mountainous +country no railroad could be kept running during the six months of +winter without being entirely inclosed in snow sheds, which would +prove destructive to the natural beauty of the Park." + +In short, it is certain that, were it not for the special inducements +which a monopoly of Park travel offers, no railroad could afford to +locate its line across that territory. + +Closely related to this general subject is that of building an +electric line for tourist transportation within the Park. It is at +once apparent that the objections to such a railroad are much less +formidable than to one operated by steam locomotives. The danger of +fire is eliminated. The unsightly character of an ordinary railway +outfit is exchanged for attractive tourist cars. The power plant, +being located in cañons and operated by water, would give no outward +evidence of its existence. There being no long trains of cars, no +smoke, no screeching of locomotives, the game would not be much more +frightened by it than by the stage coaches. In winter, traffic would +be suspended and the game would be undisturbed on the ranges. The +line, by its greater speed, would be a convenience to tourists having +but a short time at their disposal, and also to those, infirm in +health, who find the long stage rides fatiguing. + +Such are the merits of an electric railway for tourist transportation +in this country. If the people really desired it, and if it could be +built and operated by the government, so as to exclude as far as +possible all corporate management of Park business, there would be no +serious objection to the project. Of course it should never be +permitted, as some times proposed, to use the present wagon roads. +These must not in any event be interfered with. + +The question then is, Do the people desire this kind of +transportation? Fortunately we can answer this question with +authority. In 1892, a vote upon it was obtained from the tourists of +that season. The result was a majority of more than five to one +against it. In giving their votes, tourists frequently went beyond the +specific question at issue to express their emphatic disapproval of +the construction of any kind of railroad in the Park. The whole result +was a gratifying proof of the deep-seated interest of the people in +this Reservation, and of their unalterable wish that it remain forever +free from the handiwork of man. In fact, to almost every body in these +days, a coaching tour like that through the Yellowstone, is a decided +novelty. There is no other place in this country, probably not in the +world, where one approaching it can be had. The people enjoy it. They +would prefer to see it developed and perfected, rather than replaced +by the noisy car, to get away from which they have come so far. + +In the long and fruitless struggle to secure rights-of-way for +railroads, the promoters of these projects have resorted to various +indirect methods the most noteworthy of which is a proposal to change +the boundary line of the Park. We have elsewhere explained how this +boundary was originally determined. For a random line, which of +necessity it largely was, it was a most excellent one. No one would +have been dissatisfied with it were it not that it was subsequently +found to stand in the way of certain private enterprises. + +When it became apparent that the government would never consent to the +construction of a railroad within the Park, it was sought to compass +the same end by cutting off all that portion of the Reservation lying +outside of, and including, the proposed right-of-way. + +In accordance with the proverbial policy of indirection which +characterizes schemes of this sort, the real purpose of this +proposition is always veiled under a beneficent guise, intended to +make its promoters appear as zealous guardians of the Park, rather +than what they really are--conspirators for its destruction. The +proposed change of boundary is ostensibly based upon the alleged +necessity of having a natural boundary--that is, a boundary along the +courses of streams. The present line, it is urged, is unmarked and no +one knows where it is. A stream is a definite, visible line, seen and +known by every one.[BV] + +[BV] It is of course unnecessary to point out that an artificial line +can easily be marked so that there shall be no uncertainty about its +location. The hollowness of purpose on the part of those who propose +this argument is disclosed by the fact that, of the 280 miles, more or +less, in the proposed boundary, they provide a natural line for only +about 50 miles--or along that precise portion where they want to build +a railroad. All the rest of the way an artificial line is good +enough! + +The pernicious fallacy that lurks in this argument is plainly visible +if we look a little beneath the surface. _Never permit the boundaries +of the Yellowstone Park to be brought down into the valleys._ Nature +has indeed built the proper boundaries; but they are mountain ranges, +not valleys. A thousand Chinese walls heaped together would not form a +barrier like the Absarokas on the east, the Snowy Range on the north, +the Gallatin Range on the west, and the Tetons and the Big Game Ridge +on the south. Along the present boundary line there are very few +places where it is possible to build human habitations. No poacher or +law breaker can there fix his stealthy abode ready at a favorable +opportunity to dash across it. But if it were in the bottom of the +valleys, a whole colony of these dangerous individuals would soon +infest every border of the Park. Police surveillance, in any case +extremely difficult, would then be well-nigh impossible. No! Whatever +changes may be made in the boundary of the Park, let it always be kept +among the mountain tops. + +What the success of any of these projects to cut off, or segregate, +portions of the Park would mean, may be judged from a single +instance--that, namely, of the north-east corner of the Park. In this +strip of territory are some of the finest scenery and most +interesting scientific curiosities to be found upon the Reservation. +It is the great winter grazing ground for the elk, and by estimate +based upon actual count no fewer than 20,000 of these noble animals +find their winter subsistence here. That all of this game would be +almost instantly annihilated by the segregation of this strip goes +without saying. More than this, the admission to the very heart of the +Park of that class of reckless characters, who even now are its +greatest source of danger, would vastly enhance the difficulty of +protecting the remaining portions. + +It is well to emphasize by repetition the few important facts +pertaining to this question: + +(1.) There are no private interests on the borders of the Park whose +development is jeopardized by the refusal of the government to give +access to them by a railroad across the Reservation. They can all be +reached from the outside without encountering greater obstacles than +have been overcome in scores of other places throughout the West. + +(2.) There is no need of a railroad in the Park so far as the comfort +or advantage of the tourists is concerned. A line along the southern +border would answer quite as well, and would serve the surrounding +country better. + +(3.) There is no occasion to construct an electric line in the Park. +Nearly all of those who visit that region oppose it. + +(4.) There is no necessity for changing the present boundaries of the +Reservation. + + + + +CHAPTER III. + +CONCLUSION. + + +It is in respect of the foregoing matters that the Yellowstone +National Park has most to fear. The general public, although always in +favor of its preservation, knows nothing of the merit of these various +projects. A bill is introduced in Congress in the interest of some +private enterprise. It is supported by representations and statistics +gotten up for the occasion. There may be no one at hand to refute +them, and they are the only information upon which Congress can act. +More than once these bills have been reported favorably from +committee, when every essential statement in the committee's report +was contrary to fact. Unless some friend of the Park is present, ready +and willing to devote time, and perhaps money, to its defense, there +is only too much danger that these measures will eventually prove +successful. + +Thus far, the Park has never been lacking in such friends; and there +is no more encouraging fact in its history than this, that some one +has always been on guard against any thing which might work to its +injury. Men like Senator Vest in official position, or William Hallett +Phillips in private life, and journals like _Forest and Stream_, have +stood for years, in a purely public-spirited manner, without +remunerative inducement of any sort, and often in face of the +bitterest vituperation and abuse, against the designs of selfish and +unscrupulous schemers. In like manner, government officials connected +with the Park have always, with one or two exceptions, earnestly +opposed these dangerous projects. It is plain to any one who is +familiar with its inside history, that, but for the agencies just +mentioned, there would not be to-day any Yellowstone Park at all. It +is equally plain, that so long as friends like these are forthcoming, +the Park has little to fear from its enemies. + +In still another respect, the Park has been unfortunate where it had a +right to expect better things. Prior to the admission of Montana, +Wyoming, and Idaho into the Union of States, its interests were looked +after in Congress, particularly in the Senate, by a few members who +took great pride in promoting its welfare. But when the above +territories were admitted to the Union, these gentlemen very naturally +turned over the charge, which they had voluntarily assumed, to the +members from the new States, as being thereafter its proper guardians. +It was, of course, believed that in them, if in any one, the Park +would find needed championship and protection. It is a matter of great +regret that these very reasonable expectations have not been realized. +A glance at the list of bills pertaining to the Yellowstone National +Park, which have been presented to Congress in the past six years, +will show that nearly every objectionable measure has been fathered by +the very men whose first duty would seem to have been to oppose them. +In a speech opposing the Segregation Project, delivered in the Senate +in the winter of 1892-3, Senator Vest referred to this subject with +justifiable indignation. He said: + +"When those States [Montana, Wyoming, and Idaho] were territories, and +not represented in the Senate, I considered it the duty of every +Senator, as this Park belonged to all the people of the United States, +... to defend its integrity, and to keep it for the purposes for which +it was originally designed. Since Senators have come from those +States, who, of course, must be supposed to know more about that Park +than those of us who live at a distance, and since they have +manifested a disposition to mutilate it, I must confess that my +interest in it has rather flagged, and I feel very much disposed, in +plain language, to wash my hands of the whole business. If the +constituencies, who are more benefited than any others can possibly be +in the Park, are willing to see it cut off, the best disposition of +the matter would be to turn it open to the public, let the full greed +and avarice of the country have their scope, let the geysers be +divided out and taken for the purpose of washing clothes, ... let the +water of that splendid water-fall in the Yellowstone River be used to +turn machinery, let the timber be cut off; in other words, destroy the +Park, and make it a sacrifice to the greed of this advanced age in +which we live." + +It is only fair to say that generally these members do not personally +favor the measures to which they lend official countenance and +comfort. One can find a practical, if not a morally justifiable, +excuse for their course in the exigencies of political life which too +often constrain men to official action not in accordance with their +private judgment. Unquestionably, a majority of the people of these +young and enterprising states are immovably opposed to any thing which +may tend to mutilate or destroy this important reservation; and +it is not believed that their broader patriotism will ever be +overridden by the narrow and perverted wishes of a few straggling +constituencies.[BW] + +[BW] The almost prophetic warning of Captain Harris in his last report +as Superintendent of the Park has a peculiar force in this connection: + +"In my experience in connection with this National Park, I have been +very forcibly impressed with the danger to which it is subjected by +the greed of private enterprise. All local influence centers in +schemes whereby the Park can be used for pecuniary advantage. In the +unsurpassed grandeur of its natural condition, it is the pride and +glory of the nation; but if, under the guise of improvement, selfish +interests are permitted to make merchandise of its wonders and +beauties, it will inevitably become a by-word and a reproach." + +Finally, the effect of a single evil precedent upon the future of the +Park must be kept constantly in mind. The door once opened, though by +never so small a degree, can not again be closed; but will sooner or +later be thrown wide open. A privilege granted to one can not be +denied to another. If one corner of the Park is cut off, other +portions will share the same fate. If one railroad is granted a right +of way across the reservation, another can not be refused. The only +way to avoid these dangers is to keep the door entirely closed. + +There is now but little real need of further positive legislation. +Some provision should of course be made for an adequate police force, +and ample means should be provided to perfect the system of roads. +Happily this duty involves no appreciable burden. It requires no +continuing outlay to "beautify and adorn." And when it is done, the +further policy of the government toward the Park should be strictly +negative, designed solely to preserve it unimpaired, as its founders +intended, for the "benefit and enjoyment" of succeeding generations. + + + + +APPENDIX A. + +GEOGRAPHICAL NAMES IN THE YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. + + +I. + +INTRODUCTORY. + +In common experience, the importance of geographical names lies in +their use as a means of identification. To describe an object there +must be a name, and for this purpose one name is as good as another. +But if the reason be sought why a particular name happened to be +selected, it will generally be found to arise, not from this practical +necessity, but from some primary fact or tradition, or from some +distinguished character, in the annals of the community where it +occurs. In its mountains and valleys, its lakes and streams, and in +its civil divisions, the cradle history of a country may always be +found recorded. + +In newly-discovered countries, the naming of geographical features is +the dearest prerogative of the explorer, as it is also the one most +liable to abuse from personal vanity or egotism. The desire to attach +his name, or those of his personal friends, to the prominent landmarks +of the globe, where the eye of posterity may never escape them, is a +weakness from which no discoverer has yet shown himself free. + +In a region like the Yellowstone National Park, destined for all time +to be a resort for the lovers of science and pleasure, this temptation +was quite irresistible; so much so, that, when the expeditions of 1870 +and 1871 left the field, they left little worth naming behind them. +And yet the honor thus gained has not, we venture to say, been all +that its votaries desired. Small is the number of tourists who stop to +inquire for whom Mary Lake, DeLacy Creek, or Stevenson Island was +named. Fewer still are aware that Mt. Everts was _not_ christened in +honor of a distinguished American statesman of similar name, but in +commemoration of one of the most thrilling individual experiences in +American history. So with all these personal names. The lively +satisfaction with which they were given finds no counterpart in the +languid indifference with which the modern visitor mechanically +repeats them. + +In as much as it fell to the lot of the United States Geological +Survey to originate a great many of the names in our western +geography, it is interesting to know from official sources the +principles which governed in this important work. Writing upon this +point, Dr. Hayden says:[BX] + +"In attaching names to the many mountain peaks, new streams, and other +geographical localities, the discovery of which falls to the pleasant +lot of the explorer in the untrodden wilds of the West, I have +followed the rigid law of priority, and given the one by which they +have been generally known among the people of the country, whether +whites or Indians; but if, as is often the case, no suitable +descriptive name can be secured from the surroundings, a personal one +may then be attached, and the names of eminent men who have identified +themselves with the great cause, either in the fields of science or +legislation, naturally rise first in the mind." + +[BX] Page 8, Fifth Annual Report of Dr. Hayden. + +In the more recent and thorough survey of the Park by the United +States Geological Survey, it became necessary to provide names for +those subordinate features which, in a less restricted field, the +early explorers had thought unworthy of notice. Professor Arnold +Hague, upon whom this work has principally fallen, thus states the +rule which he has followed:[BY] + +"In consultation with Mr. Henry Gannett, geologist in charge of +geography, it was agreed that the necessary new names to designate the +unnamed mountains, valleys, and streams should be mainly selected from +the beasts, birds, fishes, trees, flowers, and minerals found within +the Park or the adjacent country." + +[BY] Page 152, Part I, Annual Report United States Geological Survey +for year ending June 30, 1887. + +The christening of the hot springs and geysers of the Park has been +singularly fortunate. The names are in all cases characteristic. They +are not studied efforts, but are simply the spontaneous utterances +from first impressions by those who had never seen, and had heard but +little of, similar phenomena. It is doubtful if the most careful study +could improve them, and tourists will agree with General Poe who +referred as follows to this subject when he visited the Park in +1877:[BZ] + +"The region of these geysers has been rightly named Fire Hole, and one +almost wonders that in this country, where the tendency is to name +natural objects after men who have a temporary prominence, this +interesting place and its assemblage of wonders should have so +completely escaped, and in general and in particular received names so +very appropriate." + +[BZ] Page 79, "Inspection made in the Summer of 1877, etc." See +Appendix E. + +In the race for the geographical honors of the Park, the prize fell +neither to the United States Geological Survey nor even to Colonel +Norris, though each was a close competitor. It was won by that +mythical potentate of whose sulphurous empire this region is thought +by some to be simply an outlying province. Starting with "Colter's +Hell," the list grew until it contained "Hell Roaring Creek," "Hell +Broth Springs," "Hell's Half Acre," "Satan's Arbor," and the Devil's +"Den," "Workshop," "Kitchen," "Stairway," "Slide," "Caldron," "Punch +Bowl," "Frying Pan," "Well," "Elbow," "Thumb," "Inkstand," etc., etc. +It is some satisfaction to know that this rude and fiery nomenclature +is gradually falling into disuse. + +In a measure from sympathy with the purpose of the early name-givers, +and to help those who take an interest in such matters to know when, +by whom, and why the geographical names of the Park were given, a +complete list of these names, with a few from adjacent territory, has +been prepared. The letters and numbers immediately after the names +(except those in parentheses) give marginal references on the map to +facilitate identification. The date of christening and the name of the +christening party next follow. When these can not now be determined +with precision, the work is credited to the authors of the map upon +which they first appear. Next comes whatever account is discoverable +of the origin of the names, authority being quoted, as far as +possible, from the writings of whoever bestowed them. Wherever an +object was named from some natural characteristic, as its form, color, +composition, or other peculiarity, or from the birds, beasts, fishes, +insects, trees, flowers, shrubs or minerals of the Park, the single +word "characteristic" denotes the fact. The abbreviation "U. S. G. S." +is for "United States Geological Survey." + + +APPENDIX A. + +II. + +MOUNTAIN RANGES, PEAKS, BUTTES, RIDGES, HILLS. + + [The numbers in parentheses denote elevations. These are taken from + the latest map by the United States Geological Survey, and are the + same as that of the one hundred foot contour nearest the summit. + The true elevation of the ultimate peak is in each case slightly + greater, lying somewhere between the figure given and an altitude + one hundred feet higher.] + +_Abiathar Peak_ (10,800)--C: 14--1885--U. S. G. S.--For Charles +_Abiathar_ White, Paleontologist, U. S. Geological Survey. + +_Absaroka Range_, A-X: 12-16--1885--U. S. G. S.--This range of +mountains has had an unfortunate christening history. It was first +known as the Yellowstone Range, from its close relation to the +Yellowstone River, of which it is the source. The original name dates +from as far back as 1863, and was adopted by the first explorers of +the Park country. It was officially recognized in 1871, by both the +Corps of Engineers and the United States Geological Survey. When the +Park was created this range became its real eastern boundary, and many +of its peaks were named for those who had borne prominent parts in its +history. The name had thus an added claim to perpetuity. It passed +into general use, and appears in all the writings of the United States +Geological Survey down to 1883. + +In 1873, Captain W. A. Jones, of the Corps of Engineers, led an +expedition through these mountains--the first that ever crossed them. +He gave them a new name, "Sierra Shoshone." Except for the fact that +he was violating the rule of priority, his action in giving this +name, as well as his judgment in its selection, were of unquestionable +propriety. It was a tribe of the Shoshonean family who alone dwelt in +the Park, or among these mountains, and it was entirely fitting to +commemorate this fact in a distinct and permanent manner. The name +passed rapidly into public use, and by 1880 had practically supplanted +the original name. + +For reasons that can hardly be made to appear satisfactory, the United +States Geological Survey, in 1883, or soon after, rejected both these +names and adopted in their place Absaroka, "the Indian name of the +Crow nation" (Hague). Of course this action can have no pretense of +justification from the standpoint of the "rigid law of priority." +There are very few instances in American geography of a similar +disregard for the rights of previous explorers. Unfortunately, not +even the argument of appropriateness can be urged in its defense. +These mountains, except that portion north of the Park, were never +properly Crow territory, and the name is thus distinctly an +importation. Its future use is now unhappily assured, on account of +its formal adoption (for reasons wholly inadequate, it is true,) by +the United States Board on Geographical Names. Against the influence +of the government, with its extensive series of publications, even +though committed to the perpetuation of an error, it is idle to +contend; but it is greatly to be deplored that a feature of the Park +scenery of such commanding prominence should not bear a name at least +remotely suggestive of some natural or historical association. + +_Amethyst Mountain_ (9,423)--F: 11--1872--U. S. G. S.--Characteristic. + +_Antler Peak_ (10,200)--E: 4--1885--U. S. G. S.--Characteristic. + +_Atkins Peak_ (10,900)--N: 14--1885--U. S. G. S.--For John D. C. +Atkins, Indian Commissioner, 1885-1888. + +_Avalanche Peak_ (10,500)--L: 13--1885--U. S. G. S.--Characteristic. + +_Bannock Peak_ (10,400)--D: 4--1885--U. S. G. S.--From the name of a +tribe of Indians who inhabited the country to the south-west of the +Park, and were finally settled on a reservation in southern Idaho. +What is known as the Great Bannock Trail, passed along the valley of +Indian Creek, some distance south of this mountain. The spelling here +given is that which custom seems finally to have settled upon; but +Bannack would more nearly express the original pronunciation. The +various spellings, some sixteen in number, come from the original +_Panai'hti_, or _Bannai'hti_, meaning southern people. + +_Barlow Peak_ (9,500)--Q: 10--1895--U. S. G. S.--For Captain (now +Colonel) J. W. Barlow, Corps of Engineers, U. S. A., leader of the +military expedition which entered the Park region in 1871. His name +was first applied to the upper course of the Snake River, but was +recently transferred to a neighboring mountain peak. + +[Illustration: COLONEL J. W. BARLOW.] + +_Baronett Peak_ (10,300)--C: 13--1878--U. S. G. S.--For C. J. +Baronett, "Yellowstone Jack," a famous scout and guide, closely +connected with the history of the National Park, and builder of the +first bridge across the Yellowstone River. + +Baronett's career was adventurous beyond the average man of his class. +He was born in Glencoe, Scotland, in 1829. His father was in the +British naval service, and he early began to follow the sea. In his +multitudinous wanderings we find him on the coast of Mexico during the +Mexican War; on the Chinese coast in 1850, where he deserted his ship +and fled to San Francisco; in 1852, in Australia after gold; the next +year in Africa, still on a gold hunt; then in Australia again and in +San Francisco; next in the Arctic seas as second mate on a whaling +vessel; back in California in 1855; courier for Albert Sidney Johnston +in the Mormon War; later in Colorado and California searching for +gold; scout in the Confederate service until 1863; then in Mexico with +the French under Maximilian, who made him a captain; back in +California in 1864, and in Montana in September of the same year, +where he at once set out on a prospecting trip which took him entirely +through the region of the Yellowstone Park; later in the service of +Gen. Custer as scout in the Indian territory; then in Mexico and +finally back in Montana in 1870; finder of the lost Everts; builder of +his celebrated bridge in 1871; in the Black Hills in 1875, where he +slew a local editor who had unjustly reflected upon him in his paper; +scout in the Sioux, Nez Percé, and Bannock Wars, 1876-8; Indian trader +for many years; engaged in innumerable prospecting ventures; and +still, at the age of sixty-six, searching with his old time ardor for +the elusive yellow metal. + +[Illustration: C. J. BARONETT.] + +_Big Game Ridge_--Q-T: 9-11--1895--U. S. G. S.--Characteristic. + +_Birch Mils_ (7,300)--R: 4--1885--U. S. G. S.--Characteristic. + +_Bison Peak_ (8,800)--D: 12--1878--U. S. G. S.--Characteristic. + +_Bobcat Ridge_ (9,500)--T: 9--1895--U. S. G. S.--Characteristic. + +_Bunsen Peak_ (9,100)--D: 6--1872--U. S. G. S.--For the eminent +chemist and physicist, Robert Wilhelm Bunsen; inventor of the Bunsen +electric cell and of the Bunsen Gas Burner; co-discoverer with +Kirchoff of the principle of Spectrum Analysis; and the first thorough +investigator of the phenomena of geyser action. (See Chapter III, Part +II.) + +_Cathedral Peak_ (10,600)--J: 13--1885--U. S. G. S.--Characteristic. + +_Chittenden, Mt._ (10,100)--K: 12--1878--U. S. G. S.--"Of the +prominent peaks of this [the Absaroka] range may be mentioned Mount +Chittenden, named for Mr. George B. Chittenden, whose name has long +been identified with this survey."--Gannett.[CA] + +[CA] Page 482, Twelfth Annual Report of Dr. Hayden. + +_Cinnabar Mountain_ (7,000)--A: 5--Named prior to 1870.--"So named +from the color of its rocks, which have been mistaken for Cinnabar, +although the red color is due to iron."--Hayden. The Devil's Slide +(also named before 1870) is on this mountain. + +_Colter Peak_ (10,500)--O: 13--1885--U. S. G. S.--For John Colter. +(See Part I, Chapter III.) + +_Crags, The_ (9,000)--E: 3--1885--U. S. G. S.--Characteristic. + +_Crescent Hill_ (7,900)--D: 9--1885--U. S. G. S.--Characteristic. + +_Crow Foot Ridge_ (9,700)--D-E: 3--1885--U. S. G. S.--Characteristic. + +_Doane, Mt._ (10,500)--M: 13--1870--Washburn Party--For Lieutenant +Gustavus C. Doane, 2d Cavalry, U. S. Army, commander of the military +escort to the celebrated Wasburn Expedition of 1870. + +Lieutenant Doane was born in Illinois, May 29, 1840, and died in +Bozeman, Mont., May 5, 1892. At the age of five he went with his +parents, in wake of an ox team, to Oregon. In 1849 his family went to +California at the outbreak of the gold excitement. He remained there +ten years, in the meanwhile working his way through school. In 1862 he +entered the Union service, went east with the California Hundred, and +then joined a Massachusetts cavalry regiment. He was mustered out in +1865 as a First Lieutenant. He joined the Carpet-baggers and is said +to have become mayor of Yazoo City, Mississippi. He was appointed a +Second Lieutenant in the Regular Army in 1868, and continued in the +service until his death, attaining the rank of Captain. + +[Illustration: CAPTAIN GUSTAVUS C. DOANE.] + +Doane's whole career was actuated by a love of adventure. He had at +various times planned a voyage to the Polar regions, or an expedition +of discovery into Africa. But fate assigned him a middle ground, and +he became prominently connected with the discovery of the Upper +Yellowstone country. His part in the Expedition of 1870 is second to +none. He made the first official report upon the wonders of the +Yellowstone, and his fine descriptions have never been surpassed by +any subsequent writer. Although suffering intense physical torture +during the greater portion of the trip, it did not extinguish in him +the truly poetic ardor with which those strange phenomena seem to have +inspired him. Dr. Hayden says of this report: "I venture to state, as +my opinion, that for graphic description and thrilling interest it +has not been surpassed by any official report made to our government +since the times of Lewis and Clark."[CB] + +[CB] Page 8, Fifth Annual Report of Dr. Hayden. + +Lieutenant Doane and Mr. Langford were the first white men known to +have ascended any of the higher peaks of the Absaroka Range. From the +summit of the mountain so ascended, Mr. Langford made the first known +authentic sketch of Yellowstone Lake. This sketch was used soon after +by General Washburn in compiling an official map of that section of +country, and he was so much pleased with it that he named the mountain +from which it was taken, Mt. Langford. At Mr. Langford's request, he +named a neighboring peak, Mt. Doane. + +_Dome, The_ (9,900)--E: 4--1885--U. S. G. S.--Characteristic. + +_Druid Peak_ (9,600)--D: 12--1885--U. S. G. S.--Characteristic. + +_Dunraven Peak_ (9,700)--F: 9--1878--U. S. G. S.--"This I have named +Dunraven Peak in honor of the Earl of Dunraven, whose travels and +writings have done so much toward making this region known to our +cousins across the water."--Gannett.[CC] + +[CC] Page 478, Twelfth Annual Report of Dr. Hayden. + +Dunraven visited the Park in 1874. In 1876, he published his "Great +Divide," describing his travels in the West. The irrepressible Colonel +Norris named this peak after himself, and coupled it with Mt. Washburn +in a characteristic poem. But the United States Geological Survey +decided otherwise, and transferred the colonel's name to the +north-east corner of the Park. (See "Mt. Norris.") + +_Eagle Peak_ (10,800)--O: 14--1885--U. S. G. S.--Characteristic. + +_Echo Peak_ (9,600)--E: 4--1885--U. S. G. S.--Characteristic. + +_Electric Peak_ (11,155)--B: 4-5--1872--U. S. G. S.--From the +following circumstance, described by Mr. Henry Gannett, who ascended +the mountain with surveying instruments, July 26, 1872:[CD] + +"A thunder-shower was approaching as we neared the summit of the +mountain. I was above the others of the party, and, when about fifty +feet below the summit, the electric current began to pass through my +body. At first I felt nothing, but heard a crackling noise, similar to +a rapid discharge of sparks from a friction machine. Immediately +after, I began to feel a tingling or pricking sensation in my head and +the ends of my fingers, which, as well as the noise, increased +rapidly, until, when I reached the top, the noise, which had not +changed its character, was deafening, and my hair stood completely on +end, while the tingling, pricking sensation was absolutely painful. +Taking off my hat partially relieved it. I started down again, and met +the others twenty-five or thirty feet below the summit. They were +affected similarly, but in a less degree. One of them attempted to go +to the top, but had proceeded but a few feet when he received quite a +severe shock, which felled him as if he had stumbled. We then returned +down the mountain about three hundred feet, and to this point we still +heard and felt the electricity." + +[CD] Page 807, Sixth Annual Report of Dr. Hayden. + +_Elephant Back_ (8,600)--J: 9--1871--U. S. G. S.--Characteristic. "On +account of the almost vertical sides of this mountain, and the rounded +form of the summit, it has received the name of the Elephant's +Back."--Hayden.[CE] + +[CE] Page 98, Fifth Annual Report of Dr. Hayden. + +This name, as now applied, refers to a different feature from that +originally designated by it. Many years before the Park was +discovered, it was used to denote the long ridge of which Mt. Washburn +is the commanding summit, and which was distinctly visible from beyond +the present limits of the Park, both north and south. It so appears +upon Raynolds' map of 1860, and was so used by the Washburn +Expedition (1870), by Captain Barlow (1871), and by Captain Jones +(1873). The United States Geological Survey, however, in 1871, +transferred the name to an inconspicuous ridge more than a thousand +feet lower than the surrounding mountains. Whether the change was made +by accident or design does not appear. Captain Ludlow, as late as +1875, refers to it and deplores the fact that it had taken place. + +_Everts, Mt._ (7,900)--C: 7--1870--Washburn Party.--For Hon. Truman C. +Everts, member of the Expedition of 1870, whose terrible experience is +elsewhere alluded to. The following succinct account is from the pen +of Lieutenant Doane, and is in the main correct:[CF] + +"On the first day of his absence, he had left his horse standing +unfastened, with all his arms and equipments strapped upon his saddle; +the animal became frightened, ran away into the woods, and he was left +without even a pocket knife as a means of defense. Being very +near-sighted, and totally unused to traveling in a wild country +without guides, he became completely bewildered. He wandered down to +the Snake River Lake [Hart Lake], where he remained twelve days, +sleeping near the hot springs to keep from freezing at night, and +climbing to the summits each day in the endeavor to trace out his +proper course. Here he subsisted on thistle-roots, boiled in the +springs, and was kept up a tree the greater part of one night by a +California lion. After gathering and cooking a supply of +thistle-roots, he managed to strike the south-west point of the +[Yellowstone] Lake, and followed around the north side to the +Yellowstone [River], finally reaching our [old] camp opposite the +Grand Cañon. He was twelve days out before he thought to kindle a fire +by using the lenses of his field-glass, but afterward carried a +burning brand with him in all his wanderings. Herds of game passed by +him during the night, on many occasions when he was on the verge of +starvation. In addition to a tolerable supply of thistle-roots, he had +nothing for over thirty days but a handful of minnows and a couple of +snow-birds. Twice he went five days without food, and three days +without water, in that country which is a net-work of streams and +springs. He was found on the verge of the great plateau, above the +mouth of Gardiner's River. A heavy snow-storm had extinguished his +fire; his supply of thistle-roots was exhausted; he was partially +deranged, and perishing with cold. A large lion was killed near him, +on the trail, which he said had followed him at a short distance for +several days previously. It was a miraculous escape, considering the +utter helplessness of the man, lost in a forest wilderness, and with +the storms of winter at hand." + +[CF] Page 37, "Yellowstone Expedition of 1870." See Appendix E. + +On the thirty-seventh day of his wanderings (September 9th to October +16th), he was discovered by Jack Baronett and George A. Pritchett, +near the great trail on a high mountain a few miles west of Yancey's. +Baronett threw up a mound of stones to mark the spot. He carried +Everts in his arms the rest of that day, and passed the night on a +small tributary of Black-tail Deer Creek. The next day he was taken on +a saddle to near the mouth of the Gardiner. + +The commemoration of this adventure in the naming of Mt. Everts was an +awkward mischance. The mountain which should bear the name is Mt. +Sheridan. It was named for Everts by the Washburn Party the night +before he was lost, in recognition of his having been the first white +man (except Mr. Hedges, who was with him) known to have visited its +summit. In the writings of the Washburn Party after their return, it +is so used; one very interesting article, by Mr. Hedges, with this +name as a title, being published in the _Helena Herald_ before it was +known that Mr. Everts had been found. But the name, Mt. Everts, was +finally given to the broad plateau between the Gardiner and the +Yellowstone, a feature which is not a mountain at all, and which is +ten miles from where Everts was found. The actual locality of the +finding was erroneously supposed to be near "Rescue Creek." + +In 1871, Captain Barlow ascended the mountain which should have borne +the name of Everts, and called it Mt. Sheridan, in ignorance of its +former christening. + +_Factory Hill_ (9,500)--O: 8--1885--U. S. G. S.--The term "factory" +has at various times been applied to several different localities in +the Park, because of their striking resemblance on frosty mornings to +an active factory town. The resemblance was noted as far back as 1829. +The name has now become fixed, as above indicated. + +_Flat Mountain_ (9,000)--N: 9--1871--U. S. G. +S.--Characteristic.--This mountain had already been named by the +Washburn Party Yellow Mountain, from its color. + +_Folsom Peak_ (9,300)--E: 8--1895--U. S. G. S.--For David E. Folsom, +leader of the Expedition of 1869, and author of the first general +description of the valley of the Upper Yellowstone. + +[Illustration: DAVID E. FOLSOM.] + +_Forellen Peak_ (9,700)--T: 5--1885--U. S. G. S.--From the German name +for Trout. + +_Gallatin Range_--A-F: 1-4--Name in use prior to 1870. Raynolds has +"Mt. Gallatin" on his map. Gallatin River (see name) rises in this +range. + +_Garnet Hill_ (7,000)--C: 9--1878--U. S. G. S.--Characteristic. + +_Giant Castle_ (10,000)--K: 14-15--1873--Jones--Characteristic. + +_Gibbon Hill_ (8,600)--H: 6--1885--U. S. G. S.--From the Gibbon River. + +_Gravel Peak_ (9,600)--T: 11--U. S. G. S.--Characteristic. + +_Gray Peak_ (10,300)--C-D: 4--1885--U. S. G. S.--Characteristic. + +_Grizzly Peak_ (9,700)--L: 12--1885--U. S. G. S.--Characteristic. + +_Hancock, Mt._ (10,100)--R: 10--1871--Barlow--For General W. S. +Hancock, U. S. Army, who, as commanding officer of the Department of +Dakota, had lent his active aid in the prosecution of the Yellowstone +Explorations. + +_Hawk's Rest_ (9,800)--R: 14--1885--U. S. G. S.--Characteristic. + +_Hedges Peak_ (9,500)--G: 9--1895--U. S. G. S.--For Cornelius Hedges, +a prominent member of the Washburn Expedition, author of a series of +descriptive articles upon the trip, and first to advance and publicly +advocate the idea of setting apart that region as a National Park. + +_Holmes, Mt._ (10,300)--F: 4--1878--U. S. G. S.--For W. H. Holmes, +Geologist, U. S. Geological Survey. This peak had been previously +called Mt. Madison. + +_Horseshoe Hill_ (8,200)--E: 6--1885--U. S. G. S.--Characteristic. + +_Hoyt, Mt._ (10,400)--L: 13--1881--Norris--For the Hon. John W. Hoyt, +then Governor of Wyoming. + +_Huckleberry Mountain_ (9,700)--S: 7--1885--U. S. G. +S.--Characteristic. + +_Humphreys, Mt._ (11,000)--N: 14--1871--Barlow--For General A. A. +Humphreys, then Chief of Engineers, U. S. A. + +_Index Peak_ (11,740)--C: 16--This mountain, and Pilot Knob near it, +received their names from unknown sources prior to 1870. + +"One of them [the peaks] derives its name from its shape, like a +closed hand with the index-finger extending upward, while the other is +visible from so great a distance on every side that it forms an +excellent landmark for the wandering miner, and thus its appropriate +name of Pilot Knob."--Hayden.[CG] + +[CG] Page 48, Sixth Annual Report of Dr. Hayden. + +_Joseph Peak_ (10,300)--C: 4--1885--U. S. G. S.--For Chief Joseph, the +famous Nez Percé leader in the war of 1877. He deservedly ranks among +the most noted of the North American Indians. His remarkable conduct +of the campaign of 1877 and his uniform abstinence from those +barbarous practices which have always characterized Indian warfare, +were a marvel to all who were familiar with the facts. No Indian chief +ever commanded to such a degree the respect and even friendship of his +enemies. + +_Junction Butte_ (6,500)--D: 10--When or by whom given not known. The +name arose, of course, from the fact that this butte stands at the +junction of the two important streams, the Yellowstone and Lamar +Rivers. Barlow records that the Butte was known as "Square Butte" at +the time of his visit in 1871. + +_Lake Butte_ (8,600)--K: 11--1878--Characteristic. + +_Landmark, The_ (8,800)--F: 6--1885--U. S. G. S.--Characteristic. + +_Langford, Mt._ (10,600)--M: 13--1870--Washburn Party--For the Hon. +Nathaniel Pitt Langford, first Superintendent of the Yellowstone +National Park. + +Mr. Langford was born August 9, 1832, in Westmoreland, Oneida County, +New York. His early life was spent on his father's farm, and his +education was obtained by winter attendance at district school. At +nineteen, he became clerk in the Oneida Bank of Utica. In 1854, he +went to St. Paul, where we find him, in 1855, cashier of the banking +house of Marshall & Co., and in 1858, cashier of the Bank of the +State of Minnesota. In 1862, he went to Montana as second in command +of the Northern Overland Expedition, consisting of 130 men and 53 +wagons drawn by oxen. In 1864, he was made Collector of Internal +Revenue for the new territory. In 1868, he was appointed by President +Johnson Governor of Montana, but as this was after the Senate's +imbroglio with the President and its refusal to confirm any more +presidential appointments, he did not reach this office. He was one of +the famous Montana Vigilantes, a member of the Yellowstone Expedition +of 1870, and first Superintendent of the newly created Park. In 1872, +he was appointed National Bank Examiner for the Pacific States and +Territories, and held the office for thirteen years. He now resides in +St. Paul, Minnesota. He is author of a series of articles in +_Scribner's_ for 1871, describing the newly-discovered wonders of the +Yellowstone, and of the important work, "Vigilante Days and Ways," the +most complete history in existence of that critical period in Montana +history. + +[Illustration: NATHANIEL PITT LANGFORD.] + +The notable part which Mr. Langford bore in the discovery of the Upper +Yellowstone country, and in the creation of the Yellowstone National +Park, has been fully set forth elsewhere. He has always been its +ardent friend, and his enthusiasm upon the subject in the earlier days +of its history drew upon him the mild raillery of his friends, who +were wont to call him, "National Park" Langford--a soubriquet to +which the initials of his real name readily lent themselves. + +For the circumstance of naming Mt. Langford, see "Mt. Doane." + +_Mary Mountain_ (8,500)--J: 7--Probably so named by tourists from Mary +Lake, which rests on the summit. + +_Moran, Mt._ (12,800)--W: 5--1872--U. S. G. S.--For the artist, Thomas +Moran, who produced the picture of the Grand Cañon now in the Capitol +at Washington. + +_Needles, The_ (9,600)--E: 14--1885--U. S. G. S.--Characteristic. + +_Norris, Mt._ (9,900)--E: 13--1878--U. S. G. S.--For Philetus W. +Norris, second Superintendent of the Park, and the most conspicuous +figure in its history. + +[Illustration: PHILETUS W. NORRIS.] + +He was born at Palmyra, New York, August 17, 1821. At the age of +eight, he was tourist guide at Portage Falls on the Genesee River, New +York, and at seventeen he was in Manitoba in the service of British +fur traders. In 1842, he settled in Williams County, Ohio, where he +founded the village of Pioneer. Between 1850 and 1860 he visited the +Far West. At the outbreak of the Civil War, he entered the army and +served a short time as spy and captain of scouts. He was then placed +in charge of Rebel prisoners on Johnson's Island. He next entered +politics as member of the Ohio House of Representatives, but being +later defeated for the State Senate, he joined the United States +Sanitary Commission and went again to the front. He soon returned and +became trustee of certain landed property near the City of Detroit +belonging to officers and soldiers of both armies. These lands he +reclaimed at great expense from their original swampy condition, and +built thereon the village of Norris, now part of Detroit. In 1770, he +went west again and undertook to enter the Park region in June of that +year, but permitted the swollen condition of the streams to defeat his +project. He thus missed the honor which a few months later fell to the +Washburn Party--a misfortune which he never ceased to deplore. In +1875, he again visited the Park, and in 1877, became its second +Superintendent. In 1882, he returned to Detroit, after which he was +employed by the government to explore old Indian mounds, forts, +villages, and tombs, and to collect relics for the National Museum. He +died at Rocky Hill, Kentucky, January 14, 1885. He is author of the +following works: Five Annual Reports as Superintendent of the Park; +"The Calumet of the Coteau," a volume of verse, with much additional +matter relating to the Park; and a long series of articles on "The +Great West," published in the _Norris Suburban_ in 1876-8. + +The above sketch sufficiently discloses the salient characteristic of +Norris' career. His life was that of the pioneer, and was spent in +dealing first blows in the subjugation of a primeval wilderness. He +was "blazing trails," literally and figuratively, all his days, +leaving to others the building of the finished highway. It is +therefore not surprising that his work lacks the element of +completeness, which comes only from patient attention to details. +Nowhere is this defect more apparent than in his writings. A distinct +literary talent, and something of the poet's inspiration, were, to use +his own words, "well nigh strangled" by the "stern realities of border +life." His prose abounds in aggregations of more than one hundred +words between periods, so ill arranged and barbarously punctuated as +utterly to bewilder the reader. His verse--we have searched in vain +for a single quatrain that would justify reproduction. Nevertheless, +his writings, like his works, were always to some good purpose. They +contained much useful information, and, being widely read throughout +the West, had a large and beneficial influence. + +Perhaps no better or more generous estimate of his character can be +found than in the following words of Mr. Langford who knew him well: +"He was a good man, a true man, faithful to his friends, of very kind +heart, grateful for kindnesses, of more than ordinary personal +courage, rather vain of his poetical genius, and fond of perpetuating +his name in prominent features of scenery." + +Concerning which last characteristic it may be noted that three +mountain peaks, one geyser basin, one pass, and an uncertain number of +other features of the Park, were thought by Colonel Norris deserving +of this distinction. With inimitable fidelity to this trait of his +character, he had even selected as his final resting-place the +beautiful open glade on the south side of the Grand Cañon, just below +the Lower Falls. + +_Observation Peak_ (9,300)--G: 8--1885--U. S. G. S.--Characteristic. + +_Obsidian Cliff_ (7,800)--F: 6--1878--Norris--Characteristic. + +_Paint Pot Hill_ (7,900)--H: 6--1885--U. S. G. S.--Characteristic. + +_Pelican Cone_ (9,580)--I: 12--1885--U. S. G. S.--Near source of +Pelican Creek. + +_Pilot Knob_ (11,977)--C: 16--See "Index Peak." + +_Piñon Peak_ (9,600)--S: 10--1885--U. S. G. S.--Characteristic. + +_Prospect Peak_ (9,300)--D-E: 8--1885--U. S. G. S.--Characteristic. + +_Pyramid Peak_ (10,300)--J: 14--1895--U. S. G. S.--Characteristic. + +_Quadrant Mountain_ (10,200)--D: 4--1878--U. S. G. S.--Characteristic. + +_Red Mountain Range_--P: 7-8--U. S. G. S.--Characteristic. + +_Reservation Peak_ (10,600)--M: 14--1895--U. S. G. S.--Characteristic. + +_Roaring Mountain_ (8,000)--F: 6--1885--U. S. G. S.--"It takes its +name from the shrill, penetrating sound of the steam constantly +escaping from one or more vents near the summit."--Hague. + +_Saddle Mountain_ (11,100)--H: 15--1880--Norris--Characteristic. + +_Schurz Mt._ (10,900)--N: 14--1885--U. S. G. S.--For Carl Schurz, +Secretary of the Interior during President Hayes' administration. This +name was first given by Colonel Norris to the prominent ridge on the +west side of the Gibbon Cañon. + +_Sepulcher Mountain_ (9,500)--B-C: 5-6--The origin of this name is +unknown. The following remarks concerning it are from the pen of Prof. +Wm. H. Holmes:[CH] + +"Why this mountain received such a melancholy appellation I have not +been able to discover. So far as I know, the most important thing +buried beneath its dark mass is the secret of its structure. It is +possible that the form suggested the name." + +[CH] Page 15, Twelfth Annual Report of Dr. Hayden. + +_Sheepeater Cliffs_ (7,500)--D: 7--1879--Norris--From the name of a +tribe of Indians, the only known aboriginal occupants of what is now +the Yellowstone Park. (See Chapter II, Part II.) It was upon one of +the "ancient and but recently deserted, secluded, unknown haunts" of +these Indians, that Colonel Norris, "in rapt astonishment," stumbled +one day, and was so impressed by what he saw, that he gave the +neighboring cliff its present name. He thus describes this +retreat:[CI] + +"It is mainly carpeted with soft grass, dotted, fringed, and overhung +with small pines, firs and cedars, and, with the subdued and mingled +murmur of the rapids and cataracts above and below it, and the +laughing ripple of the gliding stream, is truly an enchanting dell--a +wind and storm sheltered refuge for the feeble remnant of a fading +race." + +[CI] Page 10, Annual Report Superintendent of the Park for 1879. + +_Sheridan Mt._ (10,250)--P: 8--1871--Barlow--For Gen. P. H. Sheridan, +who actively forwarded all the early exploring expeditions in this +region, and, at a later day, twice visited the Park. His public +warnings at this time of the danger to which the Park was exposed from +vandals, poachers, and railroad promoters, and his vigorous appeal for +its protection, had great influence in bringing about a more efficient +and enlightened policy in regard to that reservation. (See "Mt. +Everts.") + +_Signal Hills_ (9,500)--M: 12--1871--U. S. G. S.--A ridge extending +back from Signal Point on the Yellowstone Lake. + +_Silver Tip Peak_ (10,400)--K: 13--1885--U. S. G. S.--Characteristic. + +_Specimen Ridge_ (8,700)--E: 11--Name known prior to +1870.--Characteristic. (See Chapter V, Part II.) + +_Stevenson, Mt._ (10,300)--M: 13--1871--U. S. G. S.--For James +Stevenson, long prominently connected with the U. S. Geological +Survey. + +"In honor of his great services not only during the past season, but +for over twelve years of unremitting toil as my assistant, oftentimes +without pecuniary reward, and with but little of the scientific +recognition that usually comes to the original explorer, I have +desired that one of the principal islands of the lake and one of the +noble peaks reflected in its clear waters should bear his name +forever."--Hayden.[CJ] + +[CJ] Page 5, Fifth Annual Report of Dr. Hayden. + +Mr. Stevenson was born in Maysville, Ky., December 24, 1840. He early +displayed a taste for exploration and natural history, and such +reading as his limited education permitted was devoted to books +treating of these subjects. At the age of thirteen he ran away from +home and joined a party of Hudson's Bay Fur Company's traders, bound +up the Missouri River. On the same boat was Dr. F. V. Hayden, then on +his way to explore the fossiliferous region of the Upper Missouri and +Yellowstone Rivers. Noticing Stevenson's taste for natural history he +invited him to join him in his work. Stevenson accepted; and thus +began a relation which lasted for more than a quarter of a century, +and which gave direction to the rest of his life. + +[Illustration: JAMES STEVENSON.] + +He was engaged in several explorations between 1850 and 1860, +connected with the Pacific railroad surveys, and with others under +Lieutenants G. K. Warren and W. F. Raynolds. In 1861 he entered the +Union service as a private soldier, and left it in 1865 with an +officer's commission. After the war he resumed his connection with Dr. +Hayden. He was mainly instrumental in the organization of the United +States Geological Survey of the Territories in 1867, and during the +next twelve years he was constantly engaged in promoting its welfare. +When the consolidation of the various geographical and geological +surveys took place in 1879, under the name of the United States +Geological Survey, he became associated with the United States Bureau +of Ethnology. He had always shown a taste for ethnological +investigations and his scientific work during the rest of his life was +in this direction, principally among the races of New Mexico and +Arizona. He died in New York City July 25, 1888. + +In the paragraph quoted above from Dr. Hayden there is more than any +but the few who are familiar with the early history of the geological +surveys will understand. It rarely happens that a master is so far +indebted to a servant for his success, as was true of the relation of +Dr. Hayden and James Stevenson. Stevenson's great talent lay in the +organization and management of men. His administrative ability in the +field was invaluable to the Survey of which Hayden was chief, and his +extraordinary influence with Congressmen was a vital element in its +early growth. His part in the Yellowstone Explorations of 1871 and +1872 is second to none in importance. It will not be forgotten that he +was the first to build and launch a boat upon the Yellowstone Lake, +nor that he, and Mr. Langford who was with him, were the first white +men to reach the summit of the Grand Teton. + +_Storm Peak_ (9,500)--E: 8--1885--U. S. G. S.--Characteristic. + +_Survey Peak_ (9,200)--T: 4--1885--U. S. G. S. This mountain was a +prominent signaling point for the Indians. It was first named Monument +Peak by Richard Leigh who built a stone mound on its summit. + +_Table Mountain_ (10,800)--O: 14--1885--U. S. G. S.--Characteristic. + +_Terrace Mountain_ (8,100)--C: 6--1878--U. S. G. S.--Characteristic. + +_Teton, Grand_ (13,691)--Not on Map.--This mountain has borne its +present name for upward of four score years. Through more than half a +century it was a cynosure to the wandering trapper, miner and +explorer. The name has passed into all the literature of that period, +which will ever remain one of the most fascinating in our western +history. Indeed, it has become the classic designation of the most +interesting historic summit of the Rocky Mountains. That it should +always retain this designation in memory of the nameless pioneers who +have been guided by it across the wilderness, and thousands of whom +have perished beneath its shadow, would seem to be a self-evident +proposition. Individual merit, no matter how great, can never justify +the usurpation of its place by any personal name whatever. An attempt +to do this was made in 1872 by the United States Geological Survey who +rechristened it Mt. Hayden. The new name has never gained any local +standing, and although it has crept into many maps its continued use +ought to be discouraged. It is greatly to the credit of Dr. Hayden +that he personally disapproved the change, so far at least, as very +rarely, if ever, to refer to the mountain by its new name. + +_Three Rivers Peak_ (9,900)--E: 4--1885--U. S. G. S.--Branches of the +Madison, Gallatin and Gardiner Rivers take their rise from its slopes. + +_Thunderer, The_ (10,400)--D: 14--1885--U. S. G. S.--Seemingly a great +focus for thunder storms. + +_Top Notch Peak_ (10,000)--L: 13--1895--U. S. G. S.--Characteristic. + +_Trident, The_ (10,000)--Q-R: 14--1885--U. S. G. S.--Characteristic. + +_Trilobite Point_ (9,900)--F: 4--1885--U. S. G. S.--Characteristic. + +_Turret Mountain_ (10,400)--P: 14--1878--Characteristic.--Called by +Captain Jones "Round-head or Watch Tower." + +_Twin Buttes_ (8,400)--K: 14--1870--Washburn Party.--Characteristic. + +_Washburn, Mt._ (10,000)--F: 9--1870--Washburn Party.--For General +Henry Dana Washburn, chief of the Yellowstone Expedition of 1870. + +General Washburn was born in Windsor, Vt., March 28, 1832. His parents +moved to Ohio during his infancy. He received a common school +education and at fourteen began teaching school. He entered Oberlin +College, but did not complete his course. At eighteen he went to +Indiana where he resumed school-teaching. At twenty-one he entered the +New York State and National Law School, from which he graduated. At +twenty-three he was elected auditor of Vermilion county, Indiana. + +His war record was a highly honorable one. He entered the army as +private in 1861 and left it as brevet brigadier-general in 1865. His +service was mainly identified with the Eighteenth Indiana, of which he +became colonel. He was in several of the western campaigns, notably in +that of Vicksburg, in which he bore a prominent part. In the last year +of the war he was with Sherman's army, and for a short time after its +close was in command of a military district in southern Georgia. In +1864, he was elected to Congress over the Hon. Daniel W. Voorhees, and +again, in 1866, over the Hon. Solomon W. Claypool. At the expiration +of his second term he was appointed by President Grant, +surveyor-general of Montana, which office he held until his death. + +[Illustration: GEN. HENRY DANA WASHBURN.] + +It was during his residence in Montana that the famous Yellowstone +Expedition of 1870 took place. His part in that important work is +perhaps the most notable feature of his career. As leader of the +expedition he won the admiration and affection of its members. He was +the first to send to Washington specimens from the geyser formations. +He ardently espoused the project of setting apart this region as a +public park and was on his way to Washington in its interest when his +career was cut short by death. The hardship and exposure of the +expedition had precipitated the catastrophe to which he had long been +tending. He left Helena in November, 1870, and died of consumption at +his home in Clinton, Indiana, January 26, 1871. + +General Washburn's name was given to this mountain by a unanimous vote +of the party on the evening of August 28, 1870, as a result of the +following incident related by Mr. Langford: + +"Our first Sunday in camp was at Tower Creek. The forest around us was +very dense, and we were somewhat at a loss in deciding what course we +needed to follow in order to reach Yellowstone Lake. We had that day +crossed a _fresh_ Indian trail, a circumstance which admonished us of +the necessity of watchfulness so as to avoid disaster. While we were +resting in camp, General Washburn, without our knowledge, and +unattended, made his way to the mountain, from the summit of which, +overlooking the dense forest which environed us, he saw Yellowstone +Lake, our objective point, and carefully noted its direction from our +camp. This intelligence was most joyfully received by us, for it +relieved our minds of all anxiety concerning our course of travel, and +dispelled the fears of some of our party lest we should become +inextricably involved in that wooded labyrinth." + +_White Peaks_ (9,800)--F : 4--1895--U. S. G. S.--Characteristic. + +_Wild Cat Peak_ (9,800)--T : 8--1885--U. S. G. S.--Characteristic. + +_Yount Peak_ (Hayden, 11,700; Hague, 12,250)--Not on map.--1878--U. S. +G. S.--Source of the Yellowstone.--Named for an old trapper and guide +of that region. + + +APPENDIX A. + +III. + +STREAMS. + + [Map locations refer only to outlets, or to points where streams + pass off the limits of the map. Altitudes refer to the same points, + but are given only in the most important cases.] + +_Agate Creek_--E : 10--1878--U. S. G. S.--Characteristic. + +_Alum Creek_--H : 9--Name known prior to 1870--Characteristic. + +_Amethyst Greek_--E : 12--1878--U. S. G. S.--Flows from Amethyst +Mountain. + +_Amphitheater Creek_--D : 13--1885--U. S. G. S.--From form of valley +near its mouth. + +_Antelope Creek_--E : 10--1870--Washburn Party--Characteristic.--This +name is often applied locally to a tributary of the Yellowstone just +above Trout Creek. + +_Arnica Creek_--L : 8--1885--U. S. G. S.--Characteristic. + +_Aster Creek_--P : 7--1885--U. S. G. S.--Characteristic. + +_Astrigent Creek_--J : 12--1885--U. S. G. S.--Characteristic. + +_Atlantic Creek_--S : 13--1873--Jones--Flows from Two-Ocean-Pass down +the Atlantic slope. + +_Badger Creek_--P : 13--1885--U. S. G. S.--Characteristic. + +_Basin Creek_--Q : 9--1885--U. S. G. S.--Characteristic. + +_Bear Creek_--B : 7--1863--Party of prospectors under one Austin. On +the way they found fair prospects in a creek on the east side of the +Yellowstone, and finding also a hairless cub, called the gulch +"Bear."--Topping. + +_Bear Creek_--K : 11--1885--U. S. G. S.--Characteristic. + +_Beaver Creek_--O : 9--1885--U. S. G. S.--Characteristic. + +_Beaver Dam Creek_--O : 12--1871--U. S. G. S.--Characteristic. + +_Bechler River_--R : 1--1872--U. S. G. S.--For Gustavus R. Bechler, +topographer on the Snake River Division of the Hayden Expedition of +1872. + +_Berry Creek_--U : 6--1885--U. S. G. S.--Characteristic. + +_Black-tail Deer Creek_--B : 8--Named prior to 1870--Characteristic. + +_Bluff Creek_--H : 10--1885--U. S. G. S.--Characteristic. + +_Bog Creek_--H : 10--1885--U. S. G. S.--Characteristic. + +_Boone Creek_--T : 1--Named prior to 1870--For Robert Withrow, an +eccentric pioneer of Irish descent, who used to call himself "Daniel +Boone the Second." + +_Bridge Creek_--K : 9--1871--U. S. G. S.--Characteristic. + +"At one point, soon after leaving camp, we found a most singular +natural bridge of the trachyte, which gives passage to a small stream, +which we called Bridge Creek."--Hayden. + +"Natural Bridge" is really over a branch of Bridge Creek. + +_Broad Creek_--F : 10--1871--Barlow--Characteristic. + +_Buffalo Creek_--D : 11--Prior to 1870--Naming party +unknown--Characteristic. + +_Burnt Creek_--E : 10--1885--U. S. G. S.--Characteristic. + +_Cache Creek_--F : 13--1863--Prospecting party under one Austin were +in camp on this stream when they were surprised by Indians, and all +their stock stolen except one or two mules. Being unable to carry all +their baggage from this point, they _cached_ what they could not place +on the mules, or could not themselves carry. From this circumstance +arose the name. + +_Calfee Creek_--F : 13--1880--Norris--For H. B. Calfee, a photographer +of note. + +"Some seven miles above Cache Creek we passed the mouth of another +stream in a deep, narrow, timbered valley, which we named Calfee +Creek, after the famous photographer of the Park. Five miles further +on, we reached the creek which Miller recognized as the one he +descended in retreating from the Indians in 1870, and which, on this +account, we called Miller's Creek."--Norris.[CK] + +[CK] Page 7, Annual Report Superintendent of the Park for 1880. + +_Cañon Creek_--1 : 5--1885--U. S. G. S.--Characteristic. + +_Carnelian Creek_--E : 9--1885--U. S. G. S.--Characteristic. + +_Cascade Creek_--G : 8--1870--Washburn Party--Characteristic. + +_Chalcedony Creek_--E : 12--1885--U. S. G. S.--Characteristic. + +_Chipmunk Creek_--O : 11--1885--U. S. G. S.--Characteristic. + +_Clear Creek_--L : 11--1878--U. S. G. S.--Characteristic. + +_Cliff Creek_--Q : 13--1885--U. S. G. S.--Characteristic. + +_Clover Creek_--G : 13--1885--U. S. G. S.--Characteristic. + +_Cold Creek_--H : 14--1885--U. S. G. S.--Characteristic. + +_Columbine Creek_--M : 11--1885--U. S. G. S.--Characteristic. + +_Conant Creek_--T : 1--Prior to 1870--By Richard Leigh for one All +Conant, who went to the mountains in 1865, and who came near losing +his life on this stream. + +_Cotton Grass Creek_--H : 9--1885--U. S. G. S.--Characteristic. + +_Cougar Creek_--G : 2--1885--U. S. G. S.--Characteristic. + +_Coulter Creek_--R : 8--1885--U. S. G. S.--For John M. Coulter, +botanist in the Hayden Expedition of 1872. + +_Crawfish Creek_--R : 6--1885--U. S. G. S--Characteristic. + +_Crevice Creek_--C : 7--1867--Prospecting party under one Lou +Anderson. + +"They found gold in a crevice at the mouth of the first Stream above +Bear, and named it, in consequence, Crevice Gulch. Hubbel went ahead +the next day for a hunt, and upon his return he was asked what kind of +a stream the next creek was. "It's a hell roarer," was his reply, and +Hell Roaring is its name to this day. The second day after this, he +was again ahead, and, the same question being asked him, he said: +"'Twas but a slough." When the party came to it, they found a rushing +torrent, and, in crossing, a pack horse and his load were swept away, +but the name of Slough Creek remains."--Topping. + +_Crooked Creek_--R : 10--1885--U. S. G. S.--Characteristic. + +_Crow Creek_--K : 15--1885--U. S. G. S.--Characteristic. + +_Crystal Creek_--D : 11--1885--U. S. G. S.--Characteristic. + +_Cub Creek_--L : 11--1885--U. S. G. S.--Characteristic. + +_Deep Creek_--E : 10--1873--Jones--Characteristic. + +_De Lacy Creek_--M : 6--1880--Norris--For Walter W. De Lacy, first +white man known to have passed along the valley. (See "Shoshone +Lake.") First named Madison Creek by the Hayden party in 1871. + +_Duck Creek_--G : 3--1895--U. S. G. S.--Characteristic. + +_Elk Creek_--D : 9--Named prior to 1870--Characteristic. + +_Elk Tongue Creek_--C : 12--U. S. G. S.--Characteristic. + +_Escarpment Creek_--Q : 13--1885--U. S. G. S.--Characteristic. + +_Fairy Creek_--J : 4--1871--Barlow--From "Fairy Falls," which see. + +_Falcon Creek_--R : 13--1885--U. S. G. S.--Characteristic. + +_Falls River_--S : 1--1872--U. S. G. S.--Characteristic. + +_Fan Creek_--C : 2--1885--U. S. G. S.--Characteristic. + +_Fawn Creek_--C : 5--1878--U. S. G. S.--Characteristic. + +_Firehole River_--I : 4--This name and "Burnt Hole" have been used to +designate the geyser basins and the stream flowing through them since +at least as far back as 1830. Captain Bonneville says it was well +known to his men. The term "Hole" is a relic of the early days when +the open valleys or parks among the mountains were called "holes." The +descriptive "fire, naturally arose from the peculiar character of +that region." + +_Firehole, Little_--L : 4--1878--U. S. G. S.--From main stream. + +_Flint Creek_--F : 13--1885--U. S. G. S.--Characteristic. + +_Forest Creek_--Q : 7--1885--U. S. G. S--Characteristic. + +_Fox Creek_--R : 11--1885--U. S. G. S.--Characteristic. + +_Gallatin River_--A : 1--1805--Lewis and Clark--For Albert Gallatin, +Secretary of War under President Jefferson. + +_Gardiner River_ (5360)--B : 6--This name, which, after "Yellowstone," +is the most familiar and important name in the Park, is the most +difficult to account for. The first authentic use of the name occurs +in 1870, in the writings of the Washburn party. In Mr. Langford's +journal, kept during the expedition, is the following entry for August +25, 1870: "At nineteen miles from our morning camp we came to Gardiner +River, at the mouth of which we camped." As the party did not +originate the name, and as they make no special reference to it in any +of their writings, it seems clear that it must already have been known +to them at the time of their arrival at the stream. None of the +surviving members has the least recollection concerning it. The stream +had been known to prospectors during the preceding few years as Warm +Spring Creek, and the many "old timers" consulted on the subject +erroneously think that the present name was given by the Washburn +Party or by the Hayden Party of 1871. What is its real origin is +therefore a good deal of a mystery. + +The only clue, and that not a satisfactory one, which has come under +our observation, is to be found in the book "River of the West," +already quoted. Reference is there made to a trapper by the name of +Gardiner, who lived in the Upper Yellowstone country as far back as +1830, and was at one time a companion of Joseph Meek, the hero of the +book. In another place it is stated that in 1838, Meek started alone +from Missouri Lake (probably Red Rock Lake) "for the Gallatin Fork of +the Missouri, trapping in a mountain basin called Gardiner's Hole.... +On his return, in another basin called Burnt Hole, he found a buffalo +skull, etc." As is well known, the sources of the Gallatin and +Gardiner are interlaced with each other, and this reference strongly +points to the present Gardiner Valley as "Gardiner's Hole." The route +across the Gallatin Range to Mammoth Hot Springs, and thence back by +way of the Firehole Basin, was doubtless a natural one then as it is +now. It is therefore reasonable to suppose that this name came from an +old hunter in the early years of the century, and that the Washburn +Party received it from some surviving descendant of those times. + +_Geode Creek_--C : 8--1878--U. S. G. S.--Characteristic. + +_Geyser Creek_--H : 6--1878--U. S. G. S.--Characteristic. + +_Gibbon River_--I : 4--1872--U. S. G. S.--For Gen. John Gibbon, U. S. +A., who first explored it. + +"We have named this stream in honor of Gen. John Gibbon, United States +Army, who has been in military command of Montana for some years, and +has, on many occasions, rendered the survey most important +services."--Hayden.[CL] + +[CL] Page 55, Sixth Annual Report of Dr. Hayden. + +_Glade Creek_--S : 6--1885--U. S. G. S.--Characteristic. + +_Glen Creek_--C : 6--1885--U. S. G. S.--Characteristic. + +_Gneiss Creek_--G : 1--1885--U. S. G. S.--Characteristic. + +_Gravel Creek_--U : 10--1895--U. S. G. S.--Characteristic. + +_Grayling Creek_--F : 1--1885--U. S. G. S.--Characteristic. + +_Grouse Creek_--O : 10--1885--U. S. G. S.--Characteristic. + +_Harebell Creek_--R : 8--1885--U. S. G. S.--Characteristic. + +_Hart River_--Q : 9--1872--U. S. G. S.--From Hart Lake, of which it is +the outlet. (See "Hart Lake.") + +_Hell Roaring Creek_--C : 9--1867--"See Crevice Creek." + +_Indian Creek_--E : 6--1878--U. S. G. S.--See "Bannock Peak." + +_Iron Creek_--L : 4--1871--U. S. G. S.--Characteristic. + +_Jasper Creek_--D : 11--1885--U. S. G. S.--Characteristic. + +_Jay Creek_--S : 13--1885--U. S. G. S.--Characteristic. + +_Jones Creek_--K : 15--1880--Norris--For Captain (now +Lieutenant-Colonel) W. A. Jones, Corps of Engineers, U. S. A., who +first explored it. Captain Jones was leader of an important expedition +through the Park in 1873, and has since been largely identified with +the development of the Park road system. + +_Jumper Creek_--J : 6--1885--U. S. G. S.--Characteristic. + +_Lamar River_ (5,970)--D : 10--1885--U. S. G. S.--For the Hon. L. Q. +C. Lamar, Secretary of the Interior during the first administration of +President Cleveland. The stream is locally known only by its original +designation, the "East Fork of the Yellowstone." + +_Lava Creek_--D : 7--1885--U. S. G. S.--Characteristic. + +_Lewis River_--R : 7--1872--U. S. G. S.--From "Lewis Lake," which see. + +_Lizard Creek_--U : 6--1885--U. S. G. S.--Characteristic. + +_Lost Creek_--D : 9--1885--U. S. G. S.--Characteristic. + +_Lupine Creek_--D : 7--1885--U. S. G. S.--Characteristic. + +_Lynx Creek_--Q : 13--1885--U. S. G. S.--Characteristic. + +_Madison River_--G : 1--1805--Lewis and Clark--For James Madison, +Secretary of State to Thomas Jefferson. + +_Magpie Creek_--J : 6--1885--U. S. G. S.--Characteristic. + +_Maple Creek_--G : 2--1885--U. S. G. S.--Characteristic. + +_Mason Creek_--L : 16--1881--Norris--For Major Julius W. Mason, U. S. +A., commander of escort to Gov. Hoyt, of Wyoming, on the latter's +reconnaissance for a wagon road to the Park in 1881. + +_Meadow Creek_--M : 11--1885--U. S. G. S.--Characteristic. + +_Middle Creek_--L : 15--1885--U. S. G. S.--Characteristic. + +_Miller Creek_--G : 13--1880--Norris--For a mountaineer named Miller. +See "Calfee Creek." + +_Mink Creek_--T : 11--1885--U. S. G. S.--Characteristic. + +_Mist Creek_--I : 14--1885--U. S. G. S.--Characteristic. + +_Moose Creek_--N : 6--1885--U. S. G. S.--Characteristic. + +_Moss Creek_--G : 10--1885--U. S. G. S.--Characteristic. + +_Mountain Creek_--P : 13--1885--U. S. G. S.--Characteristic. + +_Mountain Ash Creek_--R : 3--1885--U. S. G. S.--Characteristic. + +_Nez Percé Creek_ (7,237)--J : 4--1878--U. S. G. S.--The Nez Percé +Indians passed up this stream on their raid through the Park in 1877. +It had previously been called "East Fork of the Firehole." Prof. +Bradley, of the U. S. Geological Survey, christened it Hayden's Fork +in 1872. (See Chapter XIII, Part I.) + +_Obsidian Creek_--E : 6--1879--Norris--Characteristic. + +_Opal Creek_--E : 12--1885--U. S. G. S.--Characteristic. + +_Otter Creek_--H : 8--1885--U. S. G. S.--Characteristic. + +_Outlet Creek_--P : 9--1895--U. S. G. S.--Characteristic. + +_Owl Creek_--T : 5--1885--U. S. G. S.--Characteristic. + +_Pacific Creek_--W : 11--1873--Jones--Flows from Two-Ocean Pass down +the Pacific slope. + +_Panther Creek_--D : 5--1878--U. S. G. S.--Characteristic. + +_Pebble Creek_--D : 13--1885--U. S. G. S.--Characteristic. + +_Pelican Creek_--K : 10--Probably named by the Washburn Party in 1870. +Hayden and Barlow, in 1871, use the name as though it were already a +fixture. Mr. Hedges says of this stream: + +"About the mouth of the little stream that we had just crossed were +numerous shallows and bars, which were covered by the acre with ducks, +geese, huge white-breasted cranes, and long-beaked pelicans, while the +solitary albatross, or sea-gull, circled above our heads with a saucy +look that drew many a random shot, and cost one, at least, its life." + +_Phlox Creek_--Q : 13--1885--U. S. G. S.--Characteristic. + +_Plateau Creek_--C : 12--1885--U. S. G. S.--Characteristic. + +_Polecat Creek_--S : 6--1885--U. S. G. S.--Characteristic. + +_Quartz Creek_--E : 10--1885--U. S. G. S.--Characteristic. + +_Rabbit Creek_--K : 4--1885--U. S. G. S.--Characteristic. + +_Raven Creek_--J: 12--1885--U. S. G. S.--Characteristic. + +_Red Creek_--Q: 8--1885--U. S. G. S.--Characteristic. + +_Rescue Creek_--C: 7--1878--U. S. G. S.--Where Everts was not found. +(See "Mt. Everts.") + +_Rocky Creek_--O: 12--1885--U. S. G. S.--Characteristic. + +_Rose Creek_--D: 12--1885--U. S. G. S.--Characteristic. + +_Sedge Creek_--K: 11--1885--U. S. G. S.--Characteristic. + +_Senecio Creek_--S: 13--1885--U. S. G. S.--Characteristic. + +_Sentinel Creek_--J: 4--1872--U. S. G. S.--"The two central ones +[geyser mounds] are the highest, and appear so much as if they were +guarding the Upper Valley, that this stream was called Sentinel +Branch." Bradley. + +_Shallow Creek_--F: 11--1895--U. S. G. S.--Characteristic. + +_Sickle Creek_--Q: 10--1885--U. S. G. S.--Characteristic. + +_Slough Creek_--D: 10--1867--See "Crevice Creek." + +_Snake River_ (6,808)--W: 8--1805--Lewis and Clark--From the Snake or +Shoshone Indians, who dwelt in its valley. + +_Soda Butte Creek_--E: 12--Probably named by miners prior to 1870. +From an extinct geyser or hot spring cone near the mouth of the +stream. + +_Solfatara Creek_--G: 6--1885--U. S. G. S.--Characteristic. + +_Solution Creek_--M: 8--1885--U. S. G. S.--The outlet of Riddle Lake. + +_Sour Creek_--H: 9--1871--Barlow--Characteristic. + +_Spirea Creek_--R: 6--1885--U. S. G. S.--Characteristic. + +_Spring Creek_--M: 5--1885--U. S. G. S.--Characteristic. + +_Spruce Creek_--J: 6--1885--U. S. G. S.--Characteristic. + +_Squirrel Creek_--N: 5--1878--U. S. G. S.--Characteristic. + +_Stellaria Creek_--C: 3--1885--U. S. G. S.--Characteristic. + +_Stinkingwater River_--L: 16--1807--John Colter--From an offensive hot +spring near the junction of the principal forks of the stream. A most +interesting fact, to which attention was first publicly called by +Prof. Arnold Hague, is the occurrence on the map, which Lewis and +Clark sent to President Jefferson in the spring of 1805, of the name +"Stinking Cabin Creek," very nearly in the locality of the river +Stinkingwater. Prof. Hague, who published an interesting paper +concerning this map in _Science_ for November 4, 1877, thinks that +possibly some trapper had penetrated this region even before 1804. But +with Lewis and Clark's repeated statements that no white man had +reached the Yellowstone prior to 1805, it seems more likely that the +name was derived from the Indians. + +_Straight Creek_--E: 5--1885--U. S. G. S.--Characteristic. + +_Sulphur Creek_--G: 9--1878--U. S. G. S.--Characteristic.--Locally +this name is applied to a stream which flows from the hot springs at +the base of Sulphur Mountain. + +_Surface Creek_--G: 9--1885--U. S. G. S.--Characteristic. + +_Surprise Creek_--P: 9--1885--U. S. G. S.--Its course, as made known +by recent explorations, was surprisingly different from that which +earlier explorations had indicated. + +_Tangled Creek_--J: 4--1885--U. S. G. S.--Characteristic.--A hot water +stream which flows in numberless interlaced channels. + +_Thistle Creek_--J: 10--1885--U. S. G. S.--Characteristic. + +_Thoroughfare Creek_--R: 13--1885--U. S. G. S.--Its valley forms part +of a very practicable route across the Yellowstone Range. + +_Timothy Creek_--G: 13--1885--U. S. G. S.--Characteristic. + +_Tower Creek_--D: 10--1870--Washburn Party--From "Tower Falls," which +see. + +_Trail Creek_--O: 12--1873--Jones--From an elk trail along it. + +_Trappers' Creek_--P: 13--1885--U. S. G. S.--A great beaver resort. + +_Trout Greek_--I: 9--1885--U. S. G. S.--Characteristic. + +_Violet Creek_--I: 8--1872--U. S. G. S.--Characteristic.--"We named +the small stream Violet Creek, from the profusion of violets growing +upon its banks." Peale. + +_Weasel Creek_--K: 9--1895--U. S. G. S.--Characteristic. + +_Willow Creek_--H: 14--1885--U. S. G. S.--Characteristic. + +_Winter Creek_--E: 6--1885--U. S. G. S.--Characteristic. + +_Witch Creek_--O: 8--1878--U. S. G. S.--Probably from the prevalence +of hot springs phenomena along its entire course. + +_Wolverine Creek_--R: 8--1885--U. S. G. S.--Characteristic. + +_Yellowstone River_ (8,100 and 5,360)--U: 16 (enters map); A: 5 +(leaves map).--See Part I, Chapter I. + + +APPENDIX A. + +IV. + +WATER-FALLS. + + [Figures in parentheses indicate approximate heights of falls in + feet. These in most cases are not to be relied upon as strictly + accurate, there having been no published record of actual + measurements, except in the case of the Yellowstone Falls.] + +_Collonade Falls_--F: 3--1885--U. S. G. S.--Characteristic. + +_Crystal Falls_ (129)--G: 8--1870--Washburn +Party.--Characteristic.--The total fall includes three cascades. + +_Fairy Fall_ (250)--K: 4--1871--Barlow.--Characteristic. + +_Firehole Falls_ (60)--I: 4--Takes name from river. + +_Gibbon Falls_ (80)--I: 5--Takes name from river. + +_Iris Falls_--P: 3--1885--U. S. G. S.--Characteristic. + +_Kepler Cascade_ (80)--L: 5--1881--Norris.--For the son of Hon. John +W. Hoyt, Ex-Governor of Wyoming, who accompanied his father on a +reconnaissance for a wagon road to the Park in 1881. Norris speaks of +him as "an intrepid twelve-year old" boy who "unflinchingly shared in +all the hardships, privations, and dangers of the explorations of his +father," which included many hundred miles of travel on horseback +through that difficult country; and in admiration for the lad's pluck, +he named this cascade in his honor. + +_Lewis Falls, Upper_ (80)--P: 7--Takes name from river. + +_Lewis Falls, Lower_ (50)--Q: 7--Takes name from river. + +_Moose Falls_--R: 6--1885--U. S. G. S.--Characteristic. + +_Mystic Falls_--L: 4--1885--U. S. G. S.--Characteristic. + +_Osprey Falls_ (150)--D: 6--1885--U. S. G. S. + +_Ouzel Falls_--P: 3--1885--U. S. G. S.--Characteristic. + +_Rainbow Falls_ (140)--R: 4--1885--U. S. G. +S.--Characteristic.--Height includes total of three falls. + +_Rustic Falls_ (70)--D: 6--1878--Norris--Characteristic. + +_Silver Cord Cascade_--G: 9--1885--U. S. G. S.--Characteristic. + +_Terraced Falls_--R: 4--1885--U. S. G. S.--Characteristic. + +_Tower Falls_ (132)--D: 10--1870--Washburn Party--Characteristic. + +"By a vote of a majority of the party this fall was called Tower +Fall."--Washburn. + +"At the crest of the fall the stream has cut its way through +amygdaloid masses, leaving tall spires of rock from 50 to 100 feet in +height, and worn in every conceivable shape.... Several of them stand +like sentinels on the very brink of the fall."--Doane. + +_Undine Falls_ (60)--D: 7--1885--U. S. G. S.--Characteristic. + +_Union Falls_--Q: 4--1885--U. S. G. S.--Characteristic. + +_Virginia Cascade_ (60)--H: 7--1886--By E. Lamartine, at that time +foreman in charge of government work in Park.--For the wife of the +Hon. Chas. Gibson, President of the Yellowstone Park Association. + +_Wraith Falls_ (100)--D: 7--1885--U. S. G. S.--Characteristic. + +_Yellowstone Falls_ (Upper 112; Lower 310)--H: 9--From the river which +flows over them.[CM] + +[CM] Record of the various measurements of the Upper and Lower Falls +of the Yellowstone River. + +Folsom (1869) Upper Fall, 115 feet. Method not stated. Lower Fall, 350 +feet. Method not stated. + +Doane (1870) Upper Fall, 115 feet. Line. + +Langford (1870) Lower Fall, 350 feet. Line stretched on an incline. + +Moore's Sketch (1870) Lower Fall, 365 feet. Method not stated. + +Hayden (1871) Upper Fall, 140 feet. Method not stated. Lower Fall, 350 +feet. Method not stated. + +Gannett (1872) Upper Fall, 140 feet. Barometer. Lower Fall, 395 feet. +Comparison of angles subtended by Falls and by a tree of known height. + +Jones (1873) Upper Fall, 150 feet. Barometer. Lower Fall, 329 feet. +Barometer. + +Ludlow (1875) Upper Fall, 110 feet. Line. Lower Fall, 310 feet. Line. + +Gannett (1878) Upper Fall, 112 feet. Line. Lower Fall, 297 feet. Line +stretched on an incline. + +U. S. G. S. (Recent) Upper Fall, 109 feet. Method not stated. Lower +Fall, 308 feet. Method not stated. + +Chittenden (1892) Upper Fall, 112 feet between point of first descent +and level of pool below. Measured by means of a transit instrument. +Width of gorge at brink of fall, and a few feet above water surface, +48 feet. + + +APPENDIX A. + +V. + +LAKES. + + [Figures in parentheses denote elevations.] + +_Beach Lake_ (8,150)--K: 8--1885--U. S. G. S.--Characteristic. + +_Beaver Lake_ (7,415)--F: 6--1879--Norris--Characteristic. + +_Beula Lake_ (7,530)--R: 5--1872--U. S. G. S.--Characteristic. + +[Illustration: JAMES BRIDGER.] + +_Bridger Lake_ (7,900)--R: 13--Name a fixture prior to 1870.--For +James Bridger, the Daniel Boone of the Rockies, and one of the most +remarkable products of the trapping and gold-seeking eras. + +He was born in Richmond, Va., in March, 1804, and died in Washington, +Jackson Co., Mo., July 17, 1881. He must have gone west at a very +early age for he is known to have been in the mountains in 1820. +_Niles Register_ for 1822 speaks of him as associated with Fitzpatrick +in the Rocky Mountain Fur Company. Another record of this period +reveals him as leader of a band of whites sent to retake stolen horses +from the hostile Bannocks. In 1832, he had become a resident partner +in the Rocky Mountain Fur Company. That he was a recognized leader +among the early mountaineers while yet in his minority seems beyond +question. He became "The Old Man of the Mountains" before he was +thirty years of age. + +Among the more prominent achievements of Bridger's life may be noted +the following: He was long a leading spirit in the great Rocky +Mountain Fur Company. He discovered Great Salt Lake and the noted Pass +that bears his name. He built Fort Bridger in the lovely valley of +Black Fork of Green River, where transpired many thrilling events +connected with the history of the Mormons and "Forty-niners." He had +explored, and could accurately describe, the wonders of the +Yellowstone fully a quarter of a century before their final discovery. + +In person he was tall and spare, straight and agile, eyes gray, hair +brown and long, and abundant even in old age; expression mild, and +manners agreeable. He was hospitable and generous, and was always +trusted and respected. He possessed to a high degree the confidence of +the Indians, one of whom, a Shoshone woman, he made his wife. + +Unquestionably Bridger's chief claim to remembrance by posterity rests +upon the extraordinary part he bore in the exploration of the West. +The common verdict of his many employers, from Robert Campbell down to +Captain Raynolds, is that as a guide he was without an equal. He was +a born topographer. The whole West was mapped out in his mind as in an +exhaustive atlas. Such was his instinctive sense of locality and +direction that it used to be said that he could "smell his way" where +he could not see it. He was not only a good topographer in the field, +but he could reproduce his impressions in sketches. "With a buffalo +skin and a piece of charcoal," says Captain Gunnison, "he will map out +any portion of this immense region, and delineate mountains, streams, +and the circular valleys, called 'holes,' with wonderful accuracy." +His ability in this line caused him always to be in demand as guide to +exploring parties, and his name is connected with scores of prominent +government and private expeditions. + +His lifetime measures that period of our history during which the West +was changed from a trackless wilderness to a settled and civilized +country. He was among the first who went to the mountains, and he +lived to see all that had made a life like his possible swept away +forever. His name survives in many a feature of our western geography, +but in none with greater honor than in this little lake among the +mountains that he knew so well; and near the source of that majestic +stream with which so much of his eventful life was identified. + +_Delusion Lake_ (7,850)--M: 9--1878--U. S. G. S.--This lake was long +supposed to be an arm of the Yellowstone Lake, and, in the fanciful +comparison of the main lake to the form of the human hand, occupied +the position of the index finger. The delusion consisted in this +mistaken notion of a permanent connection between the two lakes. + +_Dryad Lake_ (8,250)--K: 8--1885--U. S. G. S.--Characteristic. + +_Duck Lake_ (7,850)--M: 7--1885--U. S. G. S.--Characteristic. + +_Fern Lake_ (8,150)--H: 11--1885--U. S. G. S.--Characteristic. + +_Frost Lake_--(7,350)--I: 14--Unknown-Characteristic. + +_Gallatin Lake_ (9,000)--E: 4--1885--U. S. G. S.--Source of the +Gallatin River. + +_Goose Lake_ (7,100)--K: 4--1885--U. S. G. S.--Characteristic. + +_Grassy Lake_ (7,150)--R: 5--1885--U. S. G. S.--Characteristic. + +_Grebe Lake_ (7,950)--G: 8--1885--U. S. G. S.--Characteristic. + +_Grizzly Lake_ (7,490)--F: 5--1885--U. S. G. S.--Characteristic. + +_Hart Lake_ (7,469)--P: 9--According to Hayden, "long known to the +hunters of the region as Heart Lake." Named prior to 1870 for an old +hunter by the name of Hart Hunney who in early times plied his trade +in this vicinity. He was possibly one of Bonneville's men, for he +seems to have known the General well and to have been familiar with +his operations. He was killed by a war party of Crows in 1852. + +The spelling, _Heart_, dates from the expeditions of 1871. The notion +that the name arose from the shape of the lake seems to have +originated with Captain Barlow. It has generally been accepted +although there is really no similarity between the form of the lake +and that of a heart. Lewis Lake is the only heart-shaped lake in that +locality. + +Everts named Hart Lake, Bessie Lake, after his daughter. + +_Henry Lake_ (6,443)--A noted lake outside the limits of the Park +passed by tourists entering the park from the west. It is named for a +celebrated fur trader, Andrew Henry, who built a trading post in that +vicinity in 1809. + +_Hering Lake_ (7,530)--R: 5--1878--U. S. G. S.--For Rudolph Hering, +Topographer on the Snake River Division of the Hayden Survey for 1872. + +_Indian Pond_--J: 11--1880--Norris.--An ancient, much-used +camping-ground of Indians. "My favorite camp on the Yellowstone Lake +(and it evidently has been a favorite one for the Indian) has ever +been upon the grove-dotted bluff, elevated thirty or forty feet above +the lake, directly fronting Indian Pond."--Norris. + +_Isa Lake_ (8,250)--L: 6--1893--N. P. R. R.--For Miss Isabel Jelke, of +Cincinnati. + +_Jackson Lake_ (6,000)--U-W: 6--Date unknown.--For David Jackson, a +noted mountaineer and fur trader, and one of the first three partners +of the Rocky Mountain Fur Company. This lake was discovered by John +Colter and was named by Clark _Lake Biddle_, in honor of Nicholas +Biddle, who first gave to the world an authentic edition of the +journal of the celebrated Lewis and Clark Expedition. + +_Jenny Lake_--South of Leigh Lake and off the map.--1872--U. S. G. +S.--For the wife of Richard Leigh. She was a Shoshone Indian. + +_Leigh Lake_--W: 5--1872--U. S. G. S.--For Richard Leigh ("Beaver +Dick"), a noted hunter, trapper, and guide in the country around the +Teton Mountains. The nickname "Beaver Dick" arose, not from the fact +that Leigh was an expert beaver trapper, but on account of the +striking resemblance of two abnormally large front teeth in his upper +jaw to the teeth of a beaver. The Indians called him "The Beaver." + +_Lewis Lake_ (7,720)--O: 7--1872--U. S. G. S.--For Captain Lewis of +"Lewis and Clark" fame. + +"As it had no name, so far as we could ascertain, we decided to call +it Lewis Lake, in memory of that gallant explorer Captain Meriwether +Lewis. The south fork of the Columbia, which was to have perpetuated +his name, has reverted to its Indian title Shoshone, and is commonly +known by that name, or its translation, Snake River. As this lake lies +near the head of one of the principal forks of that stream, it may not +be inappropriately called Lewis Lake."--Bradley.[CN] + +[CN] Page 249, Sixth Annual Report of Dr. Hayden. + +_Loon Lake_ (6,400)--R: 3--1885--U. S. G. S.--Characteristic. + +_Lost Lake_ (8,500)--M: 7--1885--U. S. G. S.--Characteristic.--This is +probably Norris' Two-Ocean-Pond, and is doubtless also the lake +referred to by Hayden in the following paragraph from his report for +1871: + +"We camped at night on the shore of a lake which seemed to have no +outlet. It is simply a depression which receives the drainage of the +surrounding hills. It is marshy around the shores, and the surface is +covered thickly with the leaves and flowers of a large yellow +lily."--Hayden. + +_Madison Lake_ (8,250)--N: 4--1872--U. S. G. S.--Head of the Madison +River. + +"A small lake, covering perhaps sixty acres, occupies the southern end +of the [Firehole] valley, where it bends to the eastward; and as the +ultimate lake source of the Madison River, is the only proper +possessor of the name 'Madison Lake.'"--Bradley.[CO] + +[CO] Page 243, Sixth Annual Report of Dr. Hayden. + +_Mallard Lake_ (8,000)--L: 5--1885--U. S. G. S.--Characteristic. + +_Mary Lake_ (8,100)--J: 7--1873--Tourist Party.--Circumstance recorded +by Rev. E. J. Stanley, one of the party, and author of the book +"Rambles in Wonderland," describing the tour. The following extract is +from his book: + +"We passed along the bank of a lovely little lakelet, sleeping in +seclusion in the shade of towering evergreens, by which it is +sheltered from the roaring tempests. It is near the divide, and on its +pebbly shore some members of our party unfurled the Stars and Stripes, +and christened it Mary's Lake, in honor of Miss Clark, a young lady +belonging to our party." + +This lake appears on Jones' map for the same year as Summit Lake. +Everts is said to have passed it in his wanderings, but there is no +reliable evidence to that effect. + +_Mirror Lake_ (8,700)--G: 12--1885--U. S. G. S.--Characteristic. + +_Obsidian Lake_ (7,650)--E: 6--1885--U. S. G. S.--Characteristic. + +_Riddle Lake_ (7,950)--N: 8--1872--U. S. G. S.-- + +"'Lake Riddle' is a fugitive name, which has been located at several +places, but nowhere permanently. It is supposed to have been used +originally to designate the mythical lake, among the mountains, +whence, according to the hunters, water flowed to both oceans. I have +agreed to Mr. Hering's proposal to attach the name to this lake, which +is directly upon the divide at a point where the waters of the two +oceans start so nearly together, and thus to solve the unsolved +'riddle' of the 'two-ocean-water.'"--Bradley.[CP] This was a year +before Captain Jones verified the existence of Two-Ocean-Pass. + +[CP] Page 250, Sixth Annual Report of Dr. Hayden. + +_Shoshone Lake_ (7,740)--M-N: 5-6--1872--U. S. G. S.--From Shoshone, +or Snake River, which here finds its source. This lake was first named +De Lacy Lake, after its discoverer. The Washburn Party (1870) appear +to have named it after their leader. In 1871, Doctor Hayden, failing +to identify its location, and believing it to be tributary to the +Madison River, renamed it Madison Lake. It is this name which appears +on the first map of the Park and in the Act of Dedication, where the +west boundary of the Park is described as being "fifteen miles west of +the most western point of Madison Lake." In 1872, when the correct +drainage of the lake was discovered, the name "Madison Lake" was +transferred to its present location (See "Madison Lake"), and its +place supplied by "Shoshone Lake." The Act of Dedication is therefore +misleading, and it is necessary to know that "Madison Lake" of the +Act, is "Shoshone Lake" now, in order to understand the true location +of the west boundary of the Park. + +In changing the name from "De Lacy" to "Shoshone," Prof. F. H. +Bradley, of the United States Geological Survey, took occasion to +reflect severely and unjustifiably upon De Lacy's work in mapping the +country.[CQ] + +[CQ] Page 24, Sixth Annual Report of Dr. Hayden. + +De Lacy felt deeply wronged by this action, and Dr. Hayden promised +him that he would set the matter right; but nothing was done. At a +later day, Colonel Norris endeavored to do De Lacy tardy justice by +placing his name on the stream which enters the lake from the north +and drains the beautiful valley now crossed by the tourist route. This +name remained for several year's, when it also was removed by the +United States Geological Survey, and its place filled by "Heron +Creek." During the past year, however, the name "De Lacy Creek" has +been restored. + +_Summit Lake_ (8,450)--M: 3--1885--U. S. G. S.--Near Continental +Divide. + +_Swan Lake_ (7,200)--D: 6--1879--Norris--Characteristic. + +_Sylvan Lake_ (8,300)--L: 13--1878--U. S. G. S.--Characteristic. + +_Tern Lake_ (8,150)--I: 11--1885--U. S. G. S.--Characteristic. + +_Trout Lake_ (6,850)--D: 13--1885--U. S. G. S.--Characteristic. + +_Turbid Lake_ (7,800)--K: 11--1878--U. S. G. S.--Characteristic. + +_Twin Lakes_ (7,450)--G: 6--1885--U. S. G. S.--Characteristic. + +_Wapiti Lake_ (8,500)--H: 11--1885--U. S. G. S.--Characteristic. + +_White Lake_ (8,150)--I: 11--1885--U. S. G. S.--Characteristic. + +_Woods, Lake of the_ (7,550)--F: 6--1885--U. S. G. S.--Characteristic. + +_Yellowstone Lake_ (7,741)--K--0: 8--12--From the river which flows +through it. This lake was named, on the map showing "Colter's Route in +1807," Lake Eustis, in honor of William Eustis, Secretary of War to +President Madison, 1809 to 1812. + +Later it appears as Sublette Lake, in honor of the noted fur trader, +William Sublette. It is even said at one time to have borne the +"fugitive name," Riddle Lake. But it early became known by its present +name. + + * * * * * + +The islands of this lake are seven in number. They seem to have all +been named by the United States Geological Survey largely for the +employes of the survey. They are: + +_Carrington Island._ For Campbell Carrington, zoologist. + +_Dot Island._ A mere dot on the map. + +_Frank Island._ For the brother of Henry W. Elliott, a member of the +Hayden Expedition of 1871. This Island was renamed Belknap Island in +1875 by the members of Secretary Belknap's party, who passed through +the Park in that year. The name, however, never came into use. + +_Molly Island._--For the wife of Mr. Henry Gannett. + +_Peale Island._--For Dr. A. C. Peale, author of the elaborate report +on thermal springs which appears in Hayden's report for 1878. + +_Pelican Roost._--Characteristic. + +_Stevenson Island._--For James Stevenson. See "Mt. Stevenson." + + * * * * * + +The bays are also seven in number, of which only the following merit +notice: + +_Mary Bay._--Named by Henry W. Elliott for Miss Mary Force. + +_Thumb._--From the old fancy that the form of the lake resembled that +of the human hand. + +_Bridge Bay._--From Bridge Creek. See "Bridge Creek." + +The capes are thirteen in number. We need notice only Signal Point, +which was much used in signaling by the early explorers; Steamboat +Point, named from the Steamboat Springs near by; and Storm Point, so +named because it receives the full force of the prevailing south-west +winds from across the lake. + +"_The Annie._"--The first boat on the Yellowstone Lake was a small +canvass craft 12 feet long by 3-1/2 feet wide. Dr. Hayden records +that, it was, christened _The Annie_, "by Mr. Stevenson, in compliment +to Miss Anna L. Dawes, the amiable daughter of Hon. H. L. Dawes." + +[Illustration: "The Annie."] + +The boat was extemporized by Mr. James Stevenson from such materials +as could be picked up. In the classic picture of this historic craft, +the persons in the boat are James Stevenson and Henry W. Elliott. An +original photograph of the boat now adorns the cabin of the _Zillah_, +the small steamboat which conveys tourists about the Lake. + + +APPENDIX A. + +VI. + +MISCELLANEOUS FEATURES. + + [Numbers in parentheses indicate altitudes.] + +_Craig Pass_ (8,300)--L: 6--1891--From the maiden name of Mrs. Ida +Craig Wilcox, the first tourist to cross the pass. + +[Illustration: FERDINAND VANDIVEER HAYDEN] + +_Hayden Valley_ (7,800)--H-J: 8-10-1878--U.S.G.S. For the eminent +American geologist, Ferdinand Vandiveer Hayden, M.D., LL. D., whose +important part in the history of the Yellowstone National Park has +been fully set forth in previous pages. The following condensed sketch +of his life is from the pen of Dr. A. C. Peale:[CR] + +[CR] Bulletin Philosophical Society of Washington, Vol. VI, pp. +476-478. + +... "He was born at Westfield, Mass., September 7, 1829.... His father +died when he was about ten years of age, and about two years later he +went to live with an uncle at Rochester, in Lorain County, Ohio, where +he remained for six years. He taught in the country district schools +of the neighborhood during his sixteenth and seventeenth years, and +at the age of eighteen went to Oberlin College, where he was graduated +in 1850.... + +"He studied medicine with Dr. J. S. Newberry, at Cleveland, and at +Albany was graduated Doctor of Medicine in the early part of 1853. +After his graduation, he was sent by Prof. James Hall, of New York, to +the Bad Lands of White River, in Dakota. The years 1854 and 1855 he +spent exploring and collecting fossils in the Upper Missouri country, +mainly at his own expense. From 1856 until 1859, he was connected as +geologist with the expeditious of Lieutenant Warren, engaged in +explorations in Nebraska and Dakota. From 1859 until 1862, he was +surgeon, naturalist, and geologist with Captain W. F. Raynolds, in the +exploration of the Yellowstone and Missouri Rivers. In October, 1862, +he was appointed acting assistant surgeon and assistant medical +inspector until June, 1865, when he resigned, and was brevetted +lieutenant-colonel for meritorious services during the war. He then +resumed his scientific work, and in 1866 made another trip to the Bad +Lands of Dakota, this time in the interest of the Academy of Natural +Sciences of Philadelphia. In 1865, he was elected professor of +mineralogy and geology in the University of Pennsylvania, which +position he resigned in 1872. From 1867 to 1879, his history is that +of the organization of which he had charge, which began as a +geological survey of Nebraska, and became finally the Geological +Survey of the Territories.... From 1879 until December, 1886, he was +connected with the United States Geological Survey as geologist. His +health began to fail soon after his connection with this organization, +and gradually became worse, and he lived only a year after his +resignation. + +"In 1876, the degree of LL.D. was conferred upon him by the University +of Rochester, and in June, 1886, he received the same degree from the +University of Pennsylvania. He was a member of seventeen scientific +societies in the United States, among them the National Academy of +Sciences, and was honorary and corresponding member of some seventy +foreign societies. A bibliography of his writings includes 158 titles. + +"... The gentleness and diffidence, approaching even timidity, which +impressed his fellow-students at Oberlin, characterized Dr. Hayden +throughout his life, and rendered it somewhat difficult for those who +did not know him intimately to understand the reasons for his success, +which was undoubtedly due to his energy and perseverance, qualities +which were equally characteristic of him as a boy and student and in +later life. His desire to forward the cause of science was sincere and +enthusiastic, and he was always ready to modify his views upon the +presentation of evidence. He was intensely nervous, frequently +impulsive, but ever generous, and his honesty and integrity undoubted. +The greater part of his work for the government and for science was a +labor of love." + +_Jones Pass_ (9,450)--K: 12--1880--Norris--For its discoverer, Captain +W. A. Jones, Corps of Engineers, U. S. A., who passed through it in +1873. + +_Kingman Pass_ (7,230)--D: 6--1883--U. S. G. S.--The pass of which +Golden Gate is the northern entrance. For Lieutenant D. C. Kingman, +Corps of Engineers, U. S. A., who built the road through the pass. + +_Norris Geyser Basin_ (7,527)--G-H: 6--For P. W. Norris, who first +explored and described it, and opened it up to tourists. It was, +however, discovered in 1872 by E. S. Topping and Dwight Woodruff, who +were led in that direction by noticing from the summit of Bunsen Peak +a vast column of steam ascending to the southward. The day after this +discovery, a tourist party, including a Mr. and Mrs. H. H. Stone, of +Bozeman, Montana, visited it from Mammoth Hot Springs, and then +continued their course, by way of the general line of the present +route, to the Firehole Geyser Basin. Mrs. Stone was the first white +woman to visit the Park. + +_Norris Pass_ (8,260)--M : 6--1879--Norris--For its discoverer. + +_Raynolds Pass_ (6,911)--Not on map.--Crosses the Continental Divide +to the northward of Henry Lake, and connects the valley of Henry Fork +with that of the Madison. Named for Captain W. F. Raynolds, who led +his expedition through it in 1860. + +_Sylvan Pass_ (8,650)--L : 13--1895--U. S. G. S.--Characteristic. + +_Targhee Pass_ (7,063)--Not on map.--Crosses the Continental Divide to +the eastward of Henry Lake, and leads from the valley of Henry Fork to +that of the Madison. The origin and orthography of this name are +uncertain. In Hayden's Report for 1872, occur three spellings, +Targhee, Tyghee, and Tahgee. The weight of evidence is in favor of the +form here adopted. There was an impression among the Hayden Survey +people, in 1872, that the name was given in honor of some +distinguished Indian Chief; but that there was no definite information +on the point is evident from the following statements, taken from +Hayden's Report for 1872. On page 56, it is stated that _Tahgee_ Pass +"was named years ago for the head chief of the Bannocks." On page 227, +it is said that _Tyghee_ Pass "was named for an old Shoshone chief who +was wont to use it." The real origin is thus left somewhat obscure, +but it is probable that the notion that the pass was named for an +Indian chief may have some foundation in fact. There was living among +the Bannocks within the present memory of white men a chief whose name +was pronounced _Ti-gee_. + + +APPENDIX A. + +VII. + +LIST OF THE PROMINENT GEYSERS. + +The numbers in the third column are the highest recorded eruptions. +The numbers in the fourth and fifth columns are not to be taken as +indicating the correct duration or periodicity of eruptions. The +prevalent notion that geysers exhibit uniform periodicity of action, +is erroneous. There is only one geyser of importance in the Park that +can be depended on, and that is Old Faithful. The figures for the +other geysers are merely rough averages, true, perhaps, as the mean of +a year's observations, but not at all to be relied upon in predicting +particular eruptions. + + The following abbreviations are used: "M. H. S.," for Mammoth Hot + Springs; "N. G. B.," "L. G. B.," "M. G. B.," "U. G. B.," "S. G. + B.," and "H. G. B.," for the Norris, Lower, Middle, Upper, + Shoshone, and Hart Lake, Geyser Basins respectively; "E. S. Y." and + "W. S. Y." for the East and West Shores respectively of the + Yellowstone Lake; "s." for second; "m." for minute; "h." for hour; + and "d." for day. + + -------------+-----------+---------------------------+----------------- + | | Eruptions. | + Name. | Location. +---------+--------+--------+ Authors of + | | Height. | Dura- | Inter- | Names. + | | | tion. | val. | Remarks. + -------------+-----------+---------+--------+--------+----------------- + | | | | | + Arsenic | N. G. B. | -- | -- | -- | U. S. G. S. + Artemesia | U. G. B. | 150 ft. | 10 m. | 2 d. | U. S. G. S. + Atomizer | U. G. B. | 20 ft. | 10 m. | -- | Unknown. + Bead | L. G. B. | -- | -- | -- | Has a + | | | | | "beautifully + | | | | | beaded tube." + | | | | | --Comstock. + Bee Hive | U. G. B. | 220 ft. | 8 m. | 20 h. | Washburn Party. + Bijou | U. G. B. | -- | -- | -- | U. S. G. S. + Bulger | U. G. B. | 5 ft. | -- | -- | U. S. G. S. + Castle | U. G. B. | 100 ft. | 25 m. | 24 h. | Washburn Party. + | | | | | "From a + | | | | | distance it + | | | | | strongly + | | | | | resembles an + | | | | | old feudal + | | | | | castle partially + | | | | | in ruins." + | | | | | --Doane. + Catfish | L. G. B. | -- | -- | -- | U. S. G. S. + Chinaman | U. G. B. | -- | -- | -- | U. S. G. S. Really + | | | | | a quiescent + | | | | | spring. Sometimes + | | | | | called a geyser + | | | | | from the + | | | | | circumstance + | | | | | that a Chinaman + | | | | | who had used it + | | | | | for a wash-tub + | | | | | caused an + | | | | | eruption by the + | | | | | soap put in the + | | | | | spring, thus + | | | | | initiating the + | | | | | practice of + | | | | | "soaping + | | | | | geysers." + Clepsydra | L. G. B. | 50 ft. | 10 s. | 3 m. | "Like the ancient + | | | | | water-clock of + | | | | | that name, it + | | | | | marks the passage + | | | | | of time by the + | | | | | discharge of + | | | | | water."--Comstock + | | | | | (1873). + Comet | U. G. B. | 60 ft. | 1 m. | -- | U. S. G. S. + Congress | N. G. B. | -- | -- | -- | Came into + | | | | | existence in the + | | | | | winter of 1893. + | | | | | Like the + | | | | | memorable 53d + | | | | | Congress, for + | | | | | which it is + | | | | | named, its + | | | | | performance + | | | | | is sadly + | | | | | incommensurate + | | | | | with its + | | | | | promises. + Constant | N. G. B. | 40 ft. | 10 s. | 1 m. | Norris. + Cubs | U. G. B. | -- | -- | -- | See "Lion." + Deluge | H. G. B. | 15 ft. | -- | -- | U. S. G. S. + Echinus | N. G. B. | 20 ft. | -- | -- | U. S. G. S. + Economic | U. G. B. | -- | -- | -- | No water lost in + | | | | | eruption; all + | | | | | falls back into + | | | | | crater. + Excelsior | M. G. B. | 300 ft. | -- | 1 to 4 | "A geyser so + | | | | h. | immeasurably + | | | | | excelling any + | | | | | other ancient or + | | | | | modern known + | | | | | to history + | | | | | that I find but + | | | | | one name fitting, + | | | | | and herein + | | | | | christen it the + | | | | | Excelsior." + | | | | | --Norris. The + | | | | | Sheridan parties + | | | | | in 1881 and 1882 + | | | | | called it the + | | | | | Sheridan Geyser. + Fan | U. G. B. | 60 ft. | 10 m. | 8 h. | Washburn Party. + Fearless | N. G. B. | -- | -- | -- | Norris. + Fissure | N. G. B. | 100 ft. | 20 m. | 2 h. | U. S. G. S. + Fitful | L. G. B. | 3 ft. | -- | -- | Comstock. + Fountain | L. G. B. | 60 ft. | 15 m. | 4 h. | U. S. G. S. + Giant | U. G. B. | 200 ft. | 90 m. | 6 d. | Washburn Party. + Giantess | U. G. B. | 250 ft. | 12 h. | 14 d. | Washburn Party. + Grand | U. G. B. | 200 ft. | 20 m. | 20 h. | U. S. G. S. + Gray Bulger | L. G. B. | 1 ft. | 30 s. | 1 m. | U. S. G. S. + Great | L. G. B. | 100 ft. | -- | -- | U. S. G. S. + Fountain | | | | | --Called + | | | | | Architectural + | | | | | Fountain in + | | | | | 1871. + Grotto | U. G. B. | 40 ft. | 30 m. | 4 h. | Washburn Party. + Jet | L. G. B. | 15 ft. | -- | -- | U. S. G. S. + Jewell | U. G. B. | 50 ft. | 1 m. | 50 m. | U. S. G. S. + Lion | U. G. B. | 60 ft. | 8 m. | 24 h. | With Lioness and + | | | | | Cubs, called + | | | | | "The Chimneys" + | | | | | by Barlow in + | | | | | 1871; renamed + | | | | | "Trinity" + | | | | | Geysers by + | | | | | Comstock + | | | | | in 1873; most + | | | | | isolated cone + | | | | | called "Niobe" by + | | | | | U. S. G. S. in + | | | | | 1878; present + | | | | | name given by + | | | | | Norris in 1881. + Lioness | U. G. B. | 80 ft. | 10 m. | 24 h. | See "Lion." + Lone Star | M : 5. | 60 ft. | 10 m. | 40 m. | Unknown. First + | | | | | called "The + | | | | | Solitary" by the + | | | | | U. S. G. S. in + | | | | | 1872. + Minute | N. G. B. | 40 ft. | 20 s. | 90 s. | Norris. + Model | U. G. B. | -- | -- | -- | Geyser on a small + | | | | | scale. + Monarch | N. G. B. | 125 ft. | 20 m. | 12 h. | Norris. + Mortar | N. G. B. | 60 ft. | 6 m. | 8 h. | "Resembles in its + | | | | | eruption the + | | | | | particular piece + | | | | | of ordnance from + | | | | | which it derives + | | | | | its name." Haynes + | | | | | Guide Book. + Mud Geyser | N. G. B. | 10 ft. | 5 m. | 20 m. | Norris. + Mud Geyser | I : 9 | 30 ft. | 20 m. | 3 h. | Washburn Party. + Oblong | U. G. B. | 40 ft. | 4 m. | 8 h. | U. S. G. S. + Old Faithful | U. G. B. | 150 ft. |4-1/2 m.| 65 m. | Washburn Party. + Pearl | N. G. B. | -- | -- | -- | U. S. G. S. + Pebble | N. G. B. | 50 ft. | -- | 75 m. | U. S. G. S. + Pink Cone | L. G. B. | -- | -- | -- | U. S. G. S. + Restless | U. G. B. | -- | -- | -- | U. S. G. S. + Riverside | U. G. B. | 80 ft. | 15 m. | 8 h. | U. S. G. S. + Rosette | L. G. B. | 30 ft. | -- | -- | U. S. G. S. + Rustic | H. G. B. | 47 ft. | 4 m. | 15 m. | U. S. G. S. + Sawmill | U. G. B. | 35 ft. | -- | -- | U. S. G. S. + Sentinel | U. G. B. | 20 ft. | -- | -- | Barlow. + Shield | S. G. B. | -- | -- | -- | U. S. G. S. + Spasmodic | U. G. B. | 5 ft. | -- | -- | U. S. G. S. + Spike | H. G. B. | -- | -- | -- | U. S. G. S. + Splendid | U. G. B. | 200 ft. | 10 m. | 3 h. | Norris. + Sponge | U. G. B. | -- | -- | -- | From appearance of + | | | | | its crater. + Steady | L. G. B. | 30 ft. | -- | -- | U. S. G. S. + Surprise | U. G. B. | 100 ft. | 2 m. | -- | + Turban | U. G. B. | 20 ft. | 25 m. | -- | U. S. G. S. "From + | | | | | the fancied + | | | | | appearance of + | | | | | some of the large + | | | | | globular masses + | | | | | in its basin to + | | | | | a Turkish + | | | | | head-dress." + | | | | | --Peale. + Union (1) | S. G. B. | 114 ft. | 60 m. | 5 h. | U. S. G. S. in + (2) | -- | 66 ft | -- | -- | 1872. + (3) | -- | 3 ft. | -- | -- | So named "because + | | | | | of its + | | | | | combination + | | | | | of the various + | | | | | forms of geyseric + | | | | | action."--Peale. + | | | | | No. 1 is North + | | | | | Cone; No. 2 + | | | | | Middle Cone; + | | | | | and No. 3 South + | | | | | Cone. + Vixen | N. G. B. | -- | -- | -- | Norris. + White Dome | L. G. B. | 12 ft. | -- | -- | U. S. G. S. + Young | U. G. B. | 20 ft. | -- | -- | Earl of Dunraven. + Faithful | | | | | + Young | L. G. B. | 20 ft. | -- | -- | U. S. G. S. + Hopeful | | | | | + + + +APPENDIX B. + +LEGISLATION AND REGULATIONS NOW IN FORCE AFFECTING THE YELLOWSTONE +NATIONAL PARK. + + +THE ACT OF DEDICATION. + + An Act to set apart a certain tract of land lying near the + headwaters of the Yellowstone River as a public park. + +_Be it enacted by the Senate and House of Representatives of the +United States of America in Congress assembled_, That the tract of +land in the Territories of Montana and Wyoming lying near the +headwaters of the Yellowstone River, and described as follows, to wit: +commencing at the junction of Gardiner's River with the Yellowstone +River and running east of the meridian, passing ten miles to the +eastward of the most eastern point of Yellowstone Lake; thence south +along the said meridian to the parallel of latitude, passing ten miles +south of the most southern point of Yellowstone Lake; thence west +along said parallel to the meridian, passing fifteen miles west of the +most western point of Madison Lake; thence north along said meridian +to the latitude of the junction of the Yellowstone and Gardiner's +Rivers; thence east to the place of beginning, is hereby reserved and +withdrawn from settlement, occupancy, or sale under the laws of the +United States, and dedicated and set apart as a public park or +pleasuring ground for the benefit and enjoyment of the people; and all +persons who shall locate, or settle upon, or occupy the same or any +part thereof, except as hereinafter provided, shall be considered +trespassers and removed therefrom. + +Sec. 2. That said public park shall be under the exclusive control of +the Secretary of the Interior, whose duty it shall be as soon as +practicable, to make and publish such rules and regulations as he may +deem necessary or proper for the care and management of the same. Such +regulations shall provide for the preservation from injury or +spoliation of all timber, mineral deposits, natural curiosities, or +wonders within said park, and their retention in their natural +condition. + +The Secretary may, in his discretion, grant leases for building +purposes, for terms not exceeding ten years, of small parcels of +ground, at such places in said park as shall require the erection of +buildings for the accommodation of visitors; all of the proceeds of +said leases, and all other revenues that may be derived from any +source connected with said park, to be expended under his direction in +the management of the same and the construction of roads and +bridle-paths therein. He shall provide against the wanton destruction +of the fish and game found within said park and against their capture +or destruction for the purposes of merchandise or profit. He shall +also cause all persons trespassing upon the same after the passage of +this act to be removed therefrom, and generally shall be authorized to +take all such measures as shall be necessary or proper to fully carry +out the objects and purposes of this act. + + _Approved March 1, 1872._ + +Signed by: + +James G. Blaine, Speaker of the House. + +Schuyler Colfax, Vice-President of the United States and President of +the Senate. + +Ulysses S. Grant, President of the United States. + + +MILITARY ASSISTANCE AUTHORIZED FOR PROTECTING THE PARK + +SUNDRY CIVIL BILL FOR 1883. + +... The Secretary of War, upon the request of the Secretary of the +Interior, is hereby authorized and directed to make the necessary +details of troops to prevent trespassers or intruders from entering +the park for the purpose of destroying the game or objects of +curiosity therein, or for any other purpose prohibited by law, and to +remove such persons from the park if found therein.... + + _Approved, March 3, 1883._ + + * * * * * + +ADMISSION OF THE STATE OF WYOMING. + +Sec. 2. ... _Provided_, That nothing in this act contained shall +repeal or affect any act of Congress relating to the Yellowstone +National Park, or the reservation of the park as now defined, or as +may be hereafter defined or extended, or the power of the United +States over it; and nothing contained in this act shall interfere with +the right and ownership of the United States in said park and +reservation as it now is or may hereafter be defined or extended by +law: but exclusive legislation, in all cases whatsoever, shall be +exercised by the United States, which shall have exclusive control and +jurisdiction over the same; but nothing in this proviso contained +shall be construed to prevent the service within said park of civil +and criminal process lawfully issued by the authority of said state; +and the said state shall not be entitled to select indemnity school +lands for the sixteenth and thirty-sixth sections that may be in said +park reservation, as the same is now defined or may be hereafter +defined.... + + _Approved, July 10, 1890._ + +THE NATIONAL PARK PROTECTIVE ACT. + + An Act to protect the birds and animals in Yellowstone National + Park, and to punish crimes in said park, and for other purposes. + +_Be it enacted by the Senate and House of Representatives of the +United States of America in Congress assembled_, That the Yellowstone +National Park, as its boundaries now are defined, or as they may be +hereafter defined or extended, shall be under the sole and exclusive +jurisdiction of the United States; and that all the laws applicable to +places under the sole and exclusive jurisdiction of the United States +shall have force and effect in said park; provided, however, that +nothing in this Act shall be construed to forbid the service in the +park of any civil or criminal process of any court having jurisdiction +in the States of Idaho, Montana and Wyoming. All fugitives from +justice taking refuge in said park shall be subject to the same laws +as refugees from justice found in the State of Wyoming. + +Sec. 2. That said park, for all the purposes of this Act, shall +constitute a part of the United States judicial district of Wyoming +and the District and Circuit Courts of the United States in and for +said district shall have jurisdiction of all offenses committed within +said park. + +Sec. 3. That if any offense shall be committed in said Yellowstone +National Park, which offense is not prohibited or the punishment is +not specially provided for by any law of the United States or by any +regulation of the Secretary of the Interior, the offender shall be +subject to the same punishment as the laws of the State of Wyoming in +force at the time of the commission of the offense may provide for a +like offense in the said State; and no subsequent repeal of any such +law of the State of Wyoming shall affect any prosecution for said +offense committed within said park. + +Sec. 4. That all hunting, or the killing, wounding, or capturing at +any time of any bird or wild animal, except dangerous animals, when it +is necessary to prevent them from destroying human life or inflicting +an injury, is prohibited within the limits of said park; nor shall any +fish be taken out of the waters of the park by means of seines, nets, +traps, or by the use of drugs or any explosive substances or +compounds, or in any other way than by hook and line, and then only at +such seasons and in such times and manner as may be directed by the +Secretary of the Interior. That the Secretary of the Interior shall +make and publish such rules and regulations as he may deem necessary +and proper for the management and care of the park and for the +protection of the property therein, especially for the preservation +from injury or spoliation of all timber, mineral deposits, natural +curiosities, or wonderful objects within said park; and for the +protection of the animals and birds in the park, from capture or +destruction, or to prevent their being frightened or driven from the +park; and he shall make rules and regulations governing the taking of +fish from the streams or lakes in the park. Possession within the said +park of the dead bodies, or any part thereof, of any wild bird or +animal shall be _prima facie_ evidence that the person or persons +having the same are guilty of violating this Act. Any person or +persons, or stage or express company or railway company, receiving for +transportation any of the said animals, birds or fish so killed, taken +or caught, shall be deemed guilty of a misdemeanor, and shall be fined +for every such offense, not exceeding three hundred dollars. Any +person found guilty of violating any of the provisions of this Act or +any rule or regulation that may be promulgated by the Secretary of the +Interior with reference to the management and care of the park, or for +the protection of the property therein, for the preservation from +injury or spoliation of timber, mineral deposits, natural curiosities +or wonderful objects within said park, or for the protection of the +animals, birds and fish in the said park, shall be deemed guilty of a +misdemeanor, and shall be subjected to a fine of not more than one +thousand dollars or imprisonment not exceeding two years, or both, and +be adjudged to pay all costs of the proceedings. + +That all guns, traps, teams, horses, or means of transportation of +every nature or description used by any person or persons within said +park limits when engaged in killing, trapping, ensnaring, or capturing +such wild beasts, birds, or wild animals shall be forfeited to the +United States, and may be seized by the officers in said park and held +pending the prosecution of any person or persons arrested under charge +of violating the provisions of this Act, and upon conviction under +this Act of such person or persons using said guns, traps, teams, +horses, or other means of transportation, such forfeiture shall be +adjudicated as a penalty in addition to the other punishment provided +in this Act. Such forfeited property shall be disposed and accounted +for by and under the authority of the Secretary of the Interior. + +Sec. 5. That the United States Circuit Court in said district shall +appoint a commissioner, who shall reside in the park, who shall have +jurisdiction to hear and act upon all complaints made, of any and all +violations of the law, or of the rules and regulations made by the +Secretary of the Interior for the government of the park, and for the +protection of the animals, birds, and fish and objects of interest +therein, and for other purposes authorized by this Act. Such +commissioner shall have power, upon sworn information, to issue +process in the name of the United States for the arrest of any person +charged with the commission of any misdemeanor, or charged with the +violation of the rules and regulations, or with the violation of any +provision of this Act prescribed for the government of said park, and +for the protection of the animals, birds, and fish in the said park, +and to try the person so charged, and, if found guilty, to impose the +punishment and adjudge the forfeiture prescribed. In all cases of +conviction, an appeal shall lie from the judgment of said commissioner +to the United States District Court for the district of Wyoming, said +appeal to be governed by the laws of the State of Wyoming providing +for appeals in cases of misdemeanor from justices of the peace to the +District Court of said State; but the United States Circuit Court in +said district may prescribe rules of procedure and practice for said +commissioner in the trial of cases, and for appeal to said United +States District Court. Said commissioner shall also have power to +issue process as hereinbefore provided for the arrest of any person +charged with the commission of any felony within the park, and to +summarily hear the evidence introduced, and, if he shall determine +that probable cause is shown for holding the person so charged for +trial, shall cause such person to be safely conveyed to a secure place +for confinement, within the jurisdiction of the United States District +Court in said State of Wyoming, and shall certify a transcript of the +record of his proceedings and the testimony in the case to the said +court, which court shall have jurisdiction of the case; provided, that +the said commissioner shall grant bail in all cases bailable under the +laws of the United States or of said State. All process issued by the +commissioner shall be directed to the marshal of the United States for +the district of Wyoming; but nothing herein contained shall be +construed as preventing the arrest by any officer of the government or +employe of the United States in the park, without process, of any +person taken in the act of violating the law or any regulation of the +Secretary of the Interior; provided, that the said commissioner shall +only exercise such authority and powers as are conferred by this Act. + +Sec. 6. That the marshal of the United States for the district of +Wyoming may appoint one or more deputy marshals for said park, who +shall reside in said park, and the said United States District and +Circuit Courts shall hold one session of said courts annually at the +town of Sheridan, in the State of Wyoming, and may also hold other +sessions at any other place in said State of Wyoming, or in said +National Park, at such dates as the said courts may order. + +Sec. 7. That the commissioner provided for in this Act shall, in +addition to the fees allowed by law to commissioners of the Circuit +Courts of the United States, be paid an annual salary of one thousand +dollars, payable quarterly, and the marshal of the United States, and +his deputies, and the attorney of the United States and his assistants +in said district, shall be paid the same compensation and fees as are +now provided by law for like services in said district. + +Sec. 8. That all costs and expenses arising in cases under this Act, +and properly chargeable to the United States, shall be certified, +approved, and paid as like costs and expenses in the courts of the +United States are certified, approved, and paid under the laws of the +United States. + +Sec. 9. That the Secretary of the Interior shall cause to be erected +in the park a suitable building to be used as a jail, and also having +in said building an office for the use of the commissioner, the cost +of such building not to exceed five thousand dollars, to be paid out +of any moneys in the Treasury not otherwise appropriated, upon the +certificate of the Secretary as a voucher therefor. + +Sec. 10. That this act shall not be construed to repeal existing laws +conferring upon the Secretary of the Interior and the Secretary of War +certain powers with reference to the protection, improvement, and +control of the said Yellowstone National Park. + + _Approved, May 7, 1894._ + + +LEASES IN THE YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. + + An act concerning leases in the Yellowstone National Park. + +_Be it enacted by the Senate and House of Representatives of the +United States of America in Congress assembled_, That the Secretary +of the Interior is hereby authorized and empowered to lease to any +person, corporation, or company, for a period not exceeding ten years, +at such annual rental as the Secretary of the Interior may determine, +parcels of land in the Yellowstone National Park, of not more than ten +acres in extent for each tract, and not in excess of twenty acres in +all to any one person, corporation, or company, on which maybe erected +hotels and necessary out-buildings; provided, that such lease or +leases shall not include any of the geysers or other objects of +curiosity or interest in said park, or exclude the public from free +and convenient approach thereto, or include any ground within +one-eighth of a mile of any of the geysers or the Yellowstone Falls, +the Grand Cañon, or the Yellowstone River, Mammoth Hot Springs, or any +object of curiosity in the park; and provided, further, that such +leases shall not convey, either expressly or by implication, any +exclusive privilege within the park except upon the premises held +thereunder and for the time therein granted. Every lease hereafter +made for any property in said park shall require the lessee to observe +and obey each and every provision in any Act of Congress, and every +rule, order, or regulation made, or which may hereafter be made and +published by the Secretary of the Interior concerning the use, care, +management, or government of the park, or any object or property +therein, under penalty of forfeiture of such lease, and every such +lease shall be subject to the right of revocation and forfeiture, +which shall therein be reserved by the Secretary of the Interior; and +provided, further, that persons or corporations now holding leases of +ground in the park may, upon the surrender thereof, be granted new +leases hereunder, and upon the terms and stipulations contained in +their present leases, with such modifications, restrictions, and +reservations as the Secretary of the Interior may prescribe. + +This Act, however, is not to be construed as mandatory upon the +Secretary of the Interior, but the authority herein given is to be +exercised in his sound discretion. + +That so much of that portion of the Act of March third, eighteen +hundred and eighty-three, relating to the Yellowstone Park, as +conflicts with this Act, be, and the same is hereby, repealed. + + _Approved, August 3, 1894._ + + +RULES AND REGULATIONS FOR THE GOVERNMENT OF THE YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL +PARK. + +1895. + +[Promulgated by the Secretary of the Interior.] + +RULES AND REGULATIONS OF THE YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. + +1. It is forbidden to remove or injure the sediments or incrustations +around the geysers, hot springs, or steam vents; or to deface the same +by written inscription or otherwise; or to throw any substance into +the springs or geyser vents; or to injure or disturb, in any manner, +or to carry off any of the mineral deposits, specimens, natural +curiosities, or wonders within the park. + +2. It is forbidden to ride or drive upon any of the geyser or hot +spring formations, or to turn loose stock to graze in their vicinity. + +3. It is forbidden to cut or injure any growing timber. Camping +parties will be allowed to use dead or fallen timber for fuel. + +4. Fires shall be lighted only when necessary, and completely +extinguished when not longer required. The utmost care should be +exercised at all times to avoid setting fire to the timber and grass, +and any one failing to comply therewith shall be peremptorily removed +from the park. + +5. Hunting or killing, wounding, or capturing of any bird or wild +animal, except dangerous animals, when necessary to prevent them from +destroying life or inflicting an injury, is prohibited. The outfits, +including guns, traps, teams, horses, or means of transportation used +by persons engaged in hunting, killing, trapping, ensnaring, or +capturing such birds or wild animals, or in possession of game killed +in the park under other circumstances than prescribed above, will be +forfeited to the United States, except in cases where it is shown by +satisfactory evidence that the outfit is not the property of the +person or persons violating this regulation, and the actual owner +thereof was not a party to such violation. Firearms will only be +permitted in the park on the written permission of the Superintendent +thereof. On arrival at the first station of the park guard, parties +having firearms will turn them over to the sergeant in charge of the +station, taking his receipt for them. They will be returned to the +owners on leaving the park. + +6. Fishing with nets, seines, traps, or by use of drugs or explosives, +or in any other way than with hook and line, is prohibited. Fishing +for purposes of merchandise or profit is forbidden by law. Fishing may +be prohibited by order of the Superintendent of the park in any of the +waters of the park, or limited therein to any specified season of the +year, until otherwise ordered by the Secretary of the Interior. + +7. No person will be permitted to reside permanently or to engage in +any business in the park without permission, in writing, from the +Department of the Interior. The Superintendent may grant authority to +competent persons to act as guides, and revoke the same in his +discretion, and no pack trains shall be allowed in the park unless in +charge of a duly registered guide. + +8. The herding or grazing of loose stock or cattle of any kind within +the park, as well as the driving of such stock or cattle over the +roads of the park, is strictly forbidden, except in such cases where +authority therefor is granted by the Secretary of the Interior. + +9. No drinking saloon or bar-room will be permitted within the limits +of the park. + +10. Private notices or advertisements shall not be posted or displayed +within the park, except such as may be necessary for the convenience +and guidance of the public, upon buildings on leased ground. + +11. Persons who render themselves obnoxious by disorderly conduct or +bad behavior, or who violate any of the foregoing rules, will be +summarily removed from the park, and will not be allowed to return +without permission in writing from the Secretary of the Interior or +the Superintendent of the Park. + +Any person who violates any of the foregoing regulations will be +deemed guilty of a misdemeanor, and be subjected to a fine, as +provided by the Act of Congress, approved May 7, 1894, "to protect the +birds and animals in Yellowstone National Park, and to punish crimes +in said park, and for other purposes," of not more than one thousand +dollars or imprisonment not exceeding two years, or both, and be +adjudged to pay all costs of the proceedings. + + Hoke Smith, + _Secretary of the Interior_. + + + + +APPENDIX C. + +APPROPRIATIONS FOR THE YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. + + + Act June 20, 1878. To protect, preserve, and improve + the Park $10,000 00 + + " Mar. 3, 1879. To protect, preserve, and improve + the Park 10,000 00 + + " June 16, 1880. To protect, preserve, and improve + the Park 15,000 00 + + " Mar. 3, 1881. To protect, preserve, and improve + the Park 15,000 00 + + " Mar. 3, 1881. Deficiency for 1880 89 76 + + " Aug. 5, 1882. " " 1881 155 00 + + " Aug. 7, 1882. For protection and improvement + of Park 15,000 00 + + " Aug. 7, 1882. To reimburse P. W. Norris for + salary and expenses, April 18, + 1877, to June 30, 1878 3,180 41 + + " Mar. 3, 1883. For protection and improvement + of Park 40,000 00 + + " July 7, 1884. For protection and improvement + of Park 40,000 00 + + " Mar. 3, 1885. For protection and improvement + of Park 40,000 00 + + Joint Resolution of + July 1 and July + 15, 1886 Compensation of Superintendent + and employes for month of + July, 1886 934 25 + + Act Aug. 4, 1886. For construction of roads and + bridges 20,000 00 + + " Mar. 3, 1887. For construction of roads and + bridges 20,000 00 + + Act Oct. 2, 1888. For construction of roads and + bridges 25,000 00 + + " Mar. 2, 1889. For construction of roads and + bridges 50,000 00 + + " Aug. 30, 1890. For construction of roads and + bridges 75,000 00 + + " Sept. 30, 1890. Reimbursement of Superintendent + Conger 169 37 + + " Mar. 3, 1891. For construction of roads and + bridges 75,000 00 + + " Aug. 5, 1892. For construction of roads and + bridges 45,000 00 + + " Mar. 3, 1893. For construction of roads and + bridges 30,000 00 + + " May 4, 1894. For erection of court-house and + jail 5,000 00 + + " Aug. 18, 1894. For construction of roads and + bridges 30,000 00 + + " Aug. 18, 1894. For salary of Commissioner + provided by Act of May 4, 1894 1,000 00 + + " Mar. 2, 1895. For construction of roads and + bridges 30,000 00 + + " Mar. 2, 1895. For salary of Commissioner 1,000 00 + + " Mar. 2, 1895. For reimbursement of John W. + Meldrum 385 75 + ----------- + Total $596,914 54 + + Receipts from leases $8,358 94 + + Expenditures from same 4,053 45 + + Balance 4,305 49 + ----------- + Outlay for 23 years $592,609 05 + + Average annual outlay less than 25,000 00 + + + + +APPENDIX D. + +LIST OF SUPERINTENDENTS OF THE YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. + + + _Name._ _Length of Service._ _Compensation._ + + Nathaniel P. Langford Appointed May 10, + 1872; removed April + 18, 1877 No compensation. + + Philetus W. Norris Appointed April 18, + 1877 Do. + Commissioned July 5, + 1878; removed + February 2, 1882 $1,500 per annum. + + Patrick H. Conger Commissioned February + 2, 1882; resigned + July 28, 1884 $2,000 per annum. + + Robert E. Carpenter Commissioned August + 4, 1884; removed May + 29, 1885 Do. + + David W. Wear Commissioned May 29, + 1885. Congress failed + to appropriate for + office from August 1, + 1886 Do. + + Capt. Moses Harris Acting Superintendent + of Park. August 10, + 1886, detailed by + Secretary of War, in + pursuance of Act March + 3, 1883 (22 Statutes, + 627). Relieved from + duty June 1, 1889 No compensation + other than army + pay. + + Capt. F. A. Boutelle Acting Superintendent + of Park; assigned + June 1, 1889, relieving + Capt. Moses Harris No compensation + other than army + pay. + + Capt. Geo. S. Anderson. Acting Superintendent + of Park; assigned + January 21, 1891, + relieving Capt. F. A. + Boutelle Do. + + + + +APPENDIX E. + +BIBLIOGRAPHY OF THE LITERATURE OF THE YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK. + + +The following bibliography is intended to contain the names of such +books and magazine articles in the English language as treat in whole +or in part of the Yellowstone National Park. It does not include +references in encyclopedias or school textbooks, nor, with few +exceptions, articles from the daily or weekly journals. Those who +desire to consult the more general literature relating to the geysers +and hot springs of the world are referred to the excellent work of Dr. +A. C. Peale, published in 1883, in the Twelfth Annual Report of Dr. +Hayden, pp. 427-449. + +The present list is carefully indexed under the more prominent words +of the titles and under the names of the authors; but the full title +of each work is given only once. To pass from any other reference to +the corresponding full title, note the number following the reference +and look for the title which is preceded by the same number. The +abbreviation "Y. N. P." is for "Yellowstone National Park." + + +1. Action of Geysers. _Westminster Review_, vol. lxvii, p. 207. + +Allen, C. J., 6. + +2. American Big Game Hunting. The Book of the Boone and Crockett Club, +vol. i. Editors, Theodore Roosevelt and George Bird Grinnell. New +York. Forest and Stream Publishing Company. 1893. Contains numerous +references to the Y. N. P. and an article entitled "The Yellowstone +Park as a Game Preserve," by Arnold Hague. + +3. Among the Geysers of the Yellowstone. E. Roberts. In his +_Shoshone_. New York. Harper Brothers. 1888. pp. 202-245. + +4. Analyses of some Geyser Deposits. By Henry Leffmann. _Chemical +News._ London, vol. xliii, p. 124. + +5. Analyses of the Waters of the Y. N. P. By Frank A. Gooch and James +E. Whitfield, Bulletin No. 47, U. S. Geological Survey, Washington: +Government Printing Office. 1888. + +Anderson, G. S., 8, 24, 61. + +6. Annual Reports of Officers of the Corps of Engineers in charge of +the Construction of Roads and Bridges. Including, to the present time, +reports by Lieutenant (now Captain) D. C. Kingman, Captain (now Major) +C. B. Sears, Major Charles J. Allen, Lieutenant W. E. Craighill, Major +(now Lieutenant-Colonel) W. A. Jones, and Lieutenant (now Captain) H. +M. Chittenden. Washington: Government Printing Office. + +7. Annual Reports of Secretaries of the Interior, from 1871 to the +present time. Washington: Government Printing Office. + +8. Annual Reports of Superintendents of the Park. Including, to the +present time, reports by N. P. Langford, P. W. Norris, P. H. Conger, +D. W. Wear, Captain (now Major, retired) Moses Harris, Captain F. A. +Boutelle, and Captain George S. Anderson. Washington: Government +Printing Office. + +9. Annual Report (Fifth: 1871) of the U. S. Geological Survey of the +Territories. By Dr. F. V. Hayden, with sub-reports by A. C. Peale, +Joseph Leidy and T. C. Porter, Washington: Government Printing Office. +1872. + +10. Annual Report (Sixth: 1872) of the U. S. Geological Survey of the +Territories. By Dr. F. V. Hayden, with sub-reports by Dr. A. C. Peale, +F. H. Bradley, C. H. Merriam, Henry Gannett, J. M. Coulter and N. P. +Langford. Washington: Government Printing Office. 1873. + +11. Annual Report (Twelfth: 1878) of the U. S. Geological and +Geographical Survey of the Territories. By Dr. F. V. Hayden, with +sub-reports by W. H. Holmes, Dr. A. C. Peale and Henry Gannett. +Washington: Government Printing Office. 1883. This report contains Dr. +Peale's exhaustive treatise upon the thermal phenomena of the park; +his general treatise on the hot springs and geysers of the world, and +his elaborate bibliography pertaining to these subjects. + +12. Annual Reports of the United States Geological Survey. The serial +numbers of these reports begin with June 30, 1880, the first report +being for the year ending at that time. Nearly all these reports +contain valuable references to the Park, most of them being from the +pen of Prof. Arnold Hague. One article of great importance, by Walter +Harvey Weed (Ninth Annual Report, 1888, pp. 613-676), on the formation +of hot springs deposits through the agency of vegetable growth, +deserves particular notice. Washington: Government Printing Office. + +13. Aquatic Invertebrate Fauna of the Y. N. P., Preliminary Report +upon. S. A. Forbes. Bulletin United States Fish Commission for 1891, +p. 215. Washington: Government Printing Office. 1893. + +Arthur, Chester A., 66. + +14. Ascent of Mt. Hayden. N. P. Langford. _Scribner's_ (Old) +_Monthly_, vol. vi, p. 129. + +15. Astoria.--Washington Irving.--Chapter xv contains a reference to +John Colter. + +Attractions of the Y. N. P., 96. + +16. Attractions of the Y. N. P. _Kansas City Review._ April 1880, p. +743. + +17. Autumn in the Yellowstone Park. L. Rutgers. In his _On and off +the Saddle_. New York: Putnam, 1894, pp. 1-19. + +Barlow, Captain J. W., 94. + +18. Battle of the Big Hole. G. O. Shields. Chicago and New York: Rand, +McNally & Company. 1889. Contains an account of the Nez Percé +Campaign. + +Beam, Wm., 21. + +19. Bicycle Tour of the Y. N. P. First. W. O. Owen. _Outing_, vol. +xviii p. 191. + +20. Black Hills, The, and American Wonderland. H. N. Maguire. _The +Lakeside Library_, vol. iv, p. 298. + +21. Bonneville, Captain, The Adventures of. Washington Irving. Chapter +xxiii contains a reference to John Colter, the Stinkingwater River, +and to "Colter's Hell." + +22. Botanical Observations in Western Wyoming. C. C. Parry. _American +Naturalist_, vol. viii, pp. 9, 102, 175, 211. + +Boutelle, Capt. F. A., 8. + +Brackett, W. S., 63. + +Bradbury, J., 115. + +Bradley, F. H., 10. + +Brockett, G. P., 152 + +Brown, R., 125. + +Bunce, O. B., 83. + +Butler, J. D., 65. + +23. Calumet of the Coteau. P. W. Norris. Philadelphia: J. B. +Lippincott & Co., 1883. + +24. Camping in the Y. N. P. Captain Geo. S. Anderson. _Youth's +Companion_, October 17, 1895, p. 488. Gives exhaustive directions for +those desiring to camp through the Park. + +Catlin, George, 62. + +Chittenden, H. M., 6, 98. + +25. Chronicles of the Yellowstone. E. S. Topping. St. Paul: Pioneer +Press Company. 1883. + +Commissioner of Fish and Fisheries, Report of, 91. + +Comstock, T. B., 45, 90, 118, 141. + +Conger, P. H., 8. + +26. Congressional Reports (only the more important): + + To accompany House Bill 764 (Act of Dedication), 42d Cong., 2d + Session. + + Report of a Special Committee of the House of Representatives + appointed by the Speaker on the 4th day of March, 1885, to + investigate, among other things, the Y. N. P. House Report No. + 1,076, 49th Cong., 1st Sess., pp. 245-270. + + Report of the Committee on Public Lands on the administration of + the Y. N. P. in compliance with House resolution of April 8, 1892. + House Report No. 1,956, 52d Cong., 1st Sess., pp. 295. + + Adverse Report on the admission of steam railways within the Park. + House Report No. 1,386, 53d Cong., 2d Sess. + + Adverse Report on the admission of electric railways within the + Park. House Report No. 1,387, 53d Cong., 2d Sess. + + Adverse Report on Segregation project and change of boundaries. + House Report No. 1,763, 53d Cong., 3d Sess. + +27. Contributions to the Geological Chemistry of the Y. N. P. Henry +Leffmann and Wm. Beam. _American Journal of Science._ 3d series, vol. +xxv, p. 104. + +28. Cooke City _versus_ the National Park. New York: _Forest and +Stream_, December 8, 1892, p. 16. + +Cope, E. D., 145. + +Corps of Engineers, Officers of, Annual Reports of, 6. + +Coues, Elliott, 57. + +Coulter, J. M., 10. + +Craighill, W. E., 6. + +Dana, E. S., 89. + +De Lacy, W., 72, 114. + +De Vallibus, 132. + +Donne, G. C., 136. + +Donaldson, T., 87. + +Driscoll, C. F., 142. + +Dudley, W. H., 159. + +Dunraven, Earl of, 53. + +29. Earth, The, and its Inhabitants. Élisée Reclus. Vol. iii. New +York: D. Appleton & Co. 1893. Contains numerous references to the Y. +N. P. + +Eccles, James, 70, 99. + +Eldridge, G. H., 44. + +30. Elk Hunt, An, at Two-Ocean Pass. Theodore Roosevelt. _The +Century_, vol. xliv, p. 713. + +Ellsworth, Spencer, 86. + +31. Enchanted Land, The, or an October Ramble among the Geysers, etc., +of the Y. N. P. Illustrated. 8vo. pp. 48. Paper. R. E. Strahorn. +Omaha. 1881. + +Evermann, B. W., 91. + +Everts, T. C., 110. + +32. Expedition through the Big Horn Mountains, Y. N. P., etc., in +1881. Report by Lieutenant-General P. H. Sheridan, with sub-reports by +Lieutenant-Colonel J. F. Gregory, A. D. C., Surgeon W. H. Forwood, U. +S. A., and Captain S. C. Kellogg, U. S. A. Washington: Government +Printing Office. 1882. + +33. Expedition to the Yellowstone. _Analectic Magazine_, vol. xv, pp. +293, 347. + +34. Exploration of Parts of Wyoming, Idaho, and Montana, in 1882. +Report by Lieutenant-General P. H. Sheridan, with sub-reports by +Lieutenant-Colonel J. F. Gregory, A. D. C., and Surgeon W. H. Forwood, +U. S. A. Washington: Government Printing Office. 1882. + +35. Exploration of the Yellowstone and the Country drained by that +River. W. F. Raynolds, Brevet Brigadier-General U. S. A. Sen. Ex. Doc. +No. 77, 40th Cong., 1st Sess. On page 10 is a reference to the geyser +regions. + +36. Falls of the Yellowstone. Howard O'Neil. _Southern Magazine_, vol. +ix., p. 219. + +37. Falls of the Yellowstone. Moses Thatcher. _The Contributor._ Salt +Lake City. Vol. v, p. 140. + +Ferris, G. T., 84. + +38. Fifth Avenue to Alaska. Edward Pierrepont. New York: G. P. Putnam +Sons, 1884, p. 237. Printed for private circulation only. + +Folsom, D. E., 119. + +Forbes, S. A., 13. + +Forest Reservation, The Y. N. P. as a, 157. + +Forwood, W. H., 32, 34. + +39. Fossil Forests of the Volcanic Tertiary Formations of the Y. N. P. +W. H. Holmes. Bulletin United States Geological Survey, vol. v, p. +125. Washington: Government Printing Office. 1879. + +40. Fossil Forests of the Yellowstone. Walter Harvey Weed. _School of +Mines Quarterly_, vol. xiii, no. 3. + +41. Fossil Forests of the Yellowstone. Prof. Samuel E. Tillman. United +States Military Academy. _Popular Science Monthly_, vol. xliii, p. +301, July, 1893. + +42. Fossil Forests of the Yellowstone. Prof. Frank H. Knowlton, P. H. +D. _The Epoch_, vol. i, no. 1, p. 18. April, 1895. + +Francis, E., 49. + +Frankland, E., 143. + +Game Exploration, Y. N. P., 158. + +Game Preserve, The Y. N. P. as a, 2. + +Gannett, H., 10, 11, 153. + +Geike, A., 48. + +Geological Chemistry of the Y. N. P. Contributions to the, 27. + +43. Geological History of the Y. N. P. Arnold Hague. _Transactions +American Institute of Mining Engineers_, vol. xvi, 1888. Also in +Smithsonian Report for 1892, p. 133. + +44. Geological Reconnaissance in North-western Wyoming. George Homans +Eldridge. Bulletin 119, United States Geological Survey. Washington: +Government Printing Office. 1894. + +45. Geology of Western Wyoming. Theo. B. Comstock. _American Journal +of Science._ 3d series, vol. vi, p. 426. + +Geyser Deposits, Analyses of, 4. + +Geyserland, Pilgrimage to, 86. + +Geysers, Action of, 1. + +46. Geysers and how they are explained. Joseph Le Conte. _Popular +Science Monthly_, vol. xii, p. 407. + +47. Geysers, Comparisons of. A. C. Peale. _Science_, vol. ii, p. 101. + +48. Geysers of the Yellowstone. Archibald Geike. _Macmillan_, vol. +xliv, p. 421. Same article, _Appleton's Journal_, vol. xxvi, p. 538; +and _Eclectic Magazine_, vol. xcviii, p. 124. + +49. Geysers of the Yellowstone. E. Francis. _Nineteenth Century_, vol. +xi, p. 369. Same article in Living Age, vol. cliii, p. 31, and +_Eclectic Magazine_, vol. xcviii, p. 598. + +Geysers of the Yellowstone, Among the, 3. + +Geyser Regions, The World's, 134. + +Geysers, Soaping, 102, 103, 104. + +50. Gigantic "Pleasuring Ground," A. _Nature_, vol. vi, pp. 397, 437. + +51. Glacial Phenomena in the Y. N. P. W. H. Holmes. _American +Naturalist_, vol. xv, p. 203. + +52. Gold Hunt on the Yellowstone, A. Edward B. Nealley. +_Lippincott's_, vol. ix, p. 204. + +Gooch, F. A., 5. + +53. Great Divide, The. Earl of Dunraven. London: Chatto and Windus. +1876. + +54. Great West, The. A Journal of Rambles over Mountain and Plain. P. +W. Norris. A long series of articles under the above title appeared in +the _Norris Suburban_ in 1876, '7, '8. They deal largely with the Y. +N. P., and contain much of historic value. Norris subsequently +rearranged and extended these articles with a view to publication in +book form; but death interrupted his purpose. The manuscript is now in +the possession of William Hallett Phillips, of Washington, D. C. + +Gregory, J. F., 32, 34, 66. + +Grinnell, G. B., 2, 61, 89. + +55. Grotto Geyser, The. F. V. Hayden. Washington: Government Printing +Office. 1876. + +56. Guide Books of the Y. N. P. The guide books of the Park are +numerous; but as they are all similar in character, and generally +supplanted by the latest issue, it seems unnecessary to give a full +list of them. Among those who have prepared guides or manuals of the +Park, of practical value to the tourist, may be mentioned H. J. +Norton, P. W. Norris, Henry J. Winser, G. L. Henderson, W. W. & S. K. +Wiley, W. C. Riley, F. J. Haynes, A. B. Guptill, and the Northern +Pacific and Union Pacific Railway Companies. The leading authorities +at the present time are Haynes' (St. Paul) Guide Book and O. D. +Wheeler's (N. P. R. R.) "Wonderland" Series. See "Wonderland Series." + +Gunnison, J. W., 77. + +Guptill, A. B., 56, 148. + +Hague, Arnold, 2, 12, 43, 67, 102, 154, 156, 157. + +Harris, Moses, 8. + +Harrison, Carter, 107. + +Hayden, F. V., 9, 10, 11, 55, 59, 60, 117, 127, 128, 140, 160. + +Hayden, Mt., Ascent of, 14. + +Haynes, F. J., 56, 66, 162. + +Heap, D. P., 94. + +Hedges, C., 137. + +Henderson, G. L., 56, 161. + +Heizman, C. L., 90, 108. + +57. History of the Expeditions under the Command of Lewis and Clark, +to the Sources of the Missouri River, thence across the Rocky +Mountains and down the Columbia River to the Pacific Ocean. Performed +during the Years 1804-5-6, by Order of the Government of the United +States. Elliott Coues. 4 vols. New York: Francis P. Harper. 1893. +Pages 283, 1153, 1154, 1181, and 1182 contain references to the Y. N. +P. + +Holmes, W. H., 11, 39, 51, 82. + +58. Horseback Rides through the Y. N. P. H. J. Norton. Virginia City, +Mont. 1874. The first real guide book of the Park. + +59. Hot Springs and Geysers of the Yellowstone and Firehole Rivers. F. +V. Hayden. _American Journal of Science_, vol. ciii, pp. 105, 161. + +60. Hot Springs of the Y. N. P. F. V. Hayden. In _The Great West_, +Philadelphia: Franklin Publishing Co. 1880. + +Hough, E., 158. + +Howard, O. O., 79, 81. + +Hoyt, J. W., 93. + +61. Hunting in Many Lands. Book of the Boone and Crockett Club. Vol. +ii. Editors, Theodore Roosevelt and George Bird Grinnell. New York: +Forest and Stream Publishing Company. 1895. Contains an article by +Captain G. S. Anderson, 6th U. S. Cavalry, on "Protection in the Y. N. +P.", and one by the Editors on "The Yellowstone Park Protective Act." + +Iddings, J. P., 156. + +62. Illustrations of the Manners, Customs, and Condition of the North +American Indians. George Catlin. 2 vols. London: Henry G. Bohn. 1857. +Pages 261-2 contain reference to Catlin's Park project. Published also +in New York. 1841. + +63. Indian Remains on the Upper Yellowstone. William S. Brackett. +Smithsonian Institute Report for 1892, p. 577. + +64. Inspection Made in the Summer of 1877 by Generals P. H. Sheridan +and W. T. Sherman. Contains letters from General Sherman to the +Secretary of War, and reports by General Sheridan, Colonel O. M. Poe, +and other officers. Washington: Government Printing Office. 1878. + +Irving, Washington, 15, 21. + +65. John Colter. Professor J. D. Butler. _Magazine American History_, +vol. xii, no. 1, p. 83. + +Jones, W. A., 6, 90. + +Jones, W. P., 153. + +Jordan, D. S., 92, 150. + +Joseph, Nez Percé, 81. + +66. Journey through the Yellowstone National Park and North-western +Wyoming. 1883. Photographs of Party and Scenery along the Route +Traveled, and Copies of the Associated Press Dispatches sent whilst En +Route. Washington: Government Printing Office. + +This book, of which only twelve copies were ever made, is the record +of the journey of President Arthur through the Park as the guest of +Lieutenant-General Sheridan in 1883. The dispatches were mostly +written by Lieutenant-Colonel M. V. Sheridan, Military Secretary, and +by Lieutenant-Colonel James F. Gregory, Aide-de-Camp; but at least one +dispatch was written by each of the other members of the party, except +the President. All the dispatches were read to and approved by the +President before being sent. No newspaper correspondent accompanied +the expedition. The photographs, which form an important feature of +the book, were taken by F. J. Haynes, who accompanied the party. + +Kellogg, S. C., 32. + +Kingman, D. C., 6. + +Knowlton, F. H., 42. + +Koch, Peter, 144. + +Langford, N. P., 8, 10, 14, 119, 120, 129, 137. + +Le Conte, Joseph, 46. + +Leffmann, Henry, 4, 27. + +Leidy, Joseph, 9. + +Lewis and Clark, 57. + +Liederkranz Expedition to the Y. N. P., 159. + +Linton, Edwin, 85. + +Ludlow, William, 89. + +Maguire, H. N., 20. + +67. Map of the North-west, An Early. Arnold Hague. _Science_, vol. x, +p. 217. + +68. Map of the Y. N. P. _Science_, vol. xi, p. 255. + +69. Marvels of the Yellowstone. _Leisure Hour_, vol. xxi, p. 134. + +Merriam, C. H., 10. + +70. Microscopical Character of Vitreous Rocks of Montana. Frank Rutley +and James Eccles. _Quarterly Journal Geological Society_, London, vol. +xxxvii, p. 391. + +71. Military Road from Fort Walla Walla to Fort Benton, Report on +Construction of. Captain John Mullan, U. S. A. Washington: Government +Printing Office. 1863. Pages 19 and 53 refer to geysers and hot +springs near the Upper Yellowstone. + +72. Mineral Resources of the States and Territories. Rossiter W. +Raymond. Washington: Government Printing Office. 1869. Page 142 quotes +W. W. De Lacy in regard to hot springs on the Firehole and Snake +Rivers. + +73. Mineral Springs of the United States. A. C. Peale. Bulletin No. +32, United States Geological Survey. Washington: Government Printing +Office. + +74. Mineral Springs of the United States. A. C. Peale. _Popular +Science Monthly_, vol. xxx, p. 711. + +75. Mineral Springs of the United States and Canada. G. E. Walton. +_Popular Science Monthly_, vol. iii, p. 515. + +76. Mineral Waters of the Y. N. P. A. C. Peale. _Science_, vol. xvii, +p. 36. + +Mitchell, S. W., 112. + +Montana Historical Society, Transactions of, 114. + +77. Mormons or Latter Day Saints, A History of. Captain J. W. +Gunnison, U. S. A. Philadelphia: Lippincott, Grambo & Co. 1852. Also +Philadelphia: J. B. Lippincott & Co. 1856. Page 151 contains a +reference to Bridger's knowledge of the geyser regions. + +Mullan, John, 71. + +National Park, Our Great, 83. + +Nealley, E. B., 52. + +78. New North-west, The. _The Century_, vol. xxiv, p. 504. + +79. Nez Percé Campaign, The, Reports of General Howard and other +officers upon. Vol. i, Reports of Secretary of War for 1877. +Washington: Government Printing Office. 1877. + +Nez Percé Campaign, The, 18, 79, 80, 81. + +80. Nez Percé Indians, Report of Civil and Military Commission to +inquire into Grievances of. Vol. i, Report of Secretary of the +Interior for 1877, p. 607. Nez Percé War described on pp. 405-409, +same volume. Washington: Government Printing Office. 1877. + +81. Nez Percé Joseph. History of the Nez Percé Campaign of 1877. +General O. O. Howard. Boston. Lee and Shepard. 1881. + +Norris, P. W., 8, 23, 54, 56. + +Northern Pacific Railway Co., 56, 126. + +Norton, H. J., 56, 58. + +82. Notes on an Extensive Deposit of Obsidian in the Y. N. P. W. H. +Holmes. _American Naturalist_, vol. xiii, p. 247. + +Obsidian in the Y. N. P., 82. + +O'Neil, H., 36. + +83. Our Great National Park. O. B. Bunce. In _Picturesque America; or, +the Land we Live in_, vol. i, p. 292. New York: D. Appleton & Co. +1872. + +84. Our Native Land, or Glances at American Scenery and Places. +George T. Ferris. New York: D. Appleton & Co., 1886, pp. 148-178. + +Overhead Sounds in the Vicinity of the Yellowstone Lake. S. A. Forbes. +Page 215, _Preliminary Report on Aquatic Invertebrate Fauna, in the Y. +N. P._, 13. + +85. Overhead Sounds in the Vicinity of the Yellowstone Lake. Edwin +Linton. _Science_, vol. xxii, No. 561, p. 244. + +Owen, W. O., 19. + +Parry, C. C., 22, 90. + +Peale, A. C., 9, 10, 11, 47, 73, 74, 76, 109, 134. + +Peck, J. K., 155. + +Pierrepont, Edward, 38. + +86. Pilgrimage to Geyserland. Spencer Ellsworth. Lacon, Ill. 1883. + +Poe, O. M., 64. + +Porter, R. P., 153. + +Porter, T. C., 9. + +Protection in the Y. N. P., 61. + +Protective Act, Y. N. P., 61. + +87. Public Domain, The. Its History with Statistics. Thomas Donaldson. +Washington: Government Printing Office, 1884, p. 1294. + +88. Rambles in Wonderland. Edwin J. Stanley. New York: D. Appleton & +Co. 1873. + +Raymond, R. W., 72, 104, 105, 106, 130. + +Raynolds, W. F., 35. + +Reclus, Élisée, 29. + +89. Reconnaissance from Carroll, Montana, to the Y. N. P. Captain (now +Lieutenant-Colonel) Wm. Ludlow, Corps of Engineers, U. S. A., with +sub-reports by George Bird Grinnell and Edward S. Dana. Appendix N N, +Chief of Engineers' Report for 1876. Washington: Government Printing +Office. 1876. Also published separately in quarto, 155 pages. 1876. + +90. Reconnaissance of North-western Wyoming, including the Y. N. P., +made in the summer of 1873. Captain W. A. Jones, of the Corps of +Engineers, with sub-reports by Prof. Theo. B. Comstock, Dr. C. L. +Heizman, U. S. A., and Dr. C. C. Parry. Washington: Government +Printing Office. 1875. + +91. Reconnaissance of the Streams and Lakes of Western Montana and +North-western Wyoming. Barton W. Evermann. In Report of the United +States Commissioner of Fish and Fisheries. Washington: Government +Printing Office. 1892, pp. 1-58. + +92. Reconnaissance of the Streams and Lakes of the Yellowstone +National Park, Wyoming, in the interests of the United States Fish +Commission. David Starr Jordan. Bulletin United States Fish +Commission, vol. ix, pp. 41-63. Washington: Government Printing +Office. 1890. + +93. Reconnaissance for a Wagon Road to the National Park. Gov. John W. +Hoyt, of Wyoming. In Annual Report of Secretary of the Interior, 1881. +Vol. ii, p. 1074. Washington: Government Printing Office. 1881. + +94. Reconnaissance of the Yellowstone River in 1871. Captains Barlow +and Heap, of the United States Corps of Engineers. Sen. Ex. Doc. No. +66, 42d Cong., 2d Sess. + +95. Report upon United States Geographical Surveys West of the One +Hundredth Meridian. Captain George M. Wheeler, Corps of Engineers, U. +S. A. Washington: Government Printing Office. 1889. Vol. i contains a +memoir upon the Voyages, Explorations, and Surveys pertaining to that +portion of the United States west of the Mississippi River from the +year 1500 to 1880, including an epitome of a Memoir by Lieutenant G. +K. Warren, covering the period from 1800 to 1857. + +96. Resources of Montana Territory and Attractions of the Y. N. P. R. +E. Strahorn. Helena, Montana: Montana Legislative Assembly. 1879. + +Richardson, James, 131. + +Riley, W. C., 56. + +97. River of the West, The. Frances Fuller Victor. Hartford, Conn.: +Columbian Book Company. 1871. Pages 75 and 76 contain a description of +some of the hot springs districts of the Park as seen in 1829. + +98. Roads in the Y. N. P. Lieutenant H. M. Chittenden, U. S. A. _Good +Roads_, vol. v, no. 1, p. 1. + +Roberts, E., 3, 146. + +99. Rocky Mountain Region of Wyoming and Idaho. James Eccles. _Alpine +Journal_, London. Vol. ix, p. 241. + +Rollins, A. W., 111. + +Roosevelt, Theodore, 2, 30, 61. + +Rutgers, L., 17. + +Rutley, F., 70. + +Saltus, J. S., 123. + +Sanitarium, A Winter, 124. + +Sargent, C. S., 149. + +100. Scorodite from the Y. N. P. J. Edward Whitfield. Bulletin U. S. +G. S., No. 55. Washington: Government Printing Office. 1889. + +Sears, C. B., 6. + +Secretaries of the Interior, Annual Reports of, 7, 80, 93. + +Sessions, F. C., 147. + +Sheridan, M. V., 66. + +Sheridan, P. H., 32, 34, 64, 66. + +Sherman, W. T., 64. + +Shields, G. O., 18. + +101. Siliceous Pebbles from the Geyser of the Yellowstone Cañon. A. P. +Townsend. _American Chemist_, vol. iii, p. 288. + +Siliceous Sinter, Formation of, 12. + +102. Soaping Geysers. Arnold Hague. _Science_, vol. xiii, p. 382. Also +in Smithsonian Report for 1892, p. 153. + +103. Soaping Geysers. _Popular Science Monthly_, vol. xxxvii, p. 139. + +104. Soaping Geysers. R. W. Raymond. Transactions of the American +Institute of Mining Engineers, Buffalo Meeting, October, 1888. + +Stanley, E. J., 88. + +105. Statistics of Mines and Mining. Rossiter W. Raymond. Washington: +Government Printing Office. 1870. Page 312 contains references to the +geysers of the Yellowstone. + +106. Statistics of Mines and Mining. Rossiter W. Raymond. Washington: +Government Printing Office. 1872. Pages 213-216 contain a reference to +the geysers from the pen of General Washburn. + +Strahorn, R. E., 31, 96. + +Strong, W. E., 116. + +107. Summer's Outing, A, or, The Old Man's Story. Carter Harrison. +Chicago: Dibble Publishing Company. 1891. + +Superintendents of the Y. N. P., Annual Reports of, 8. + +Tetons, The Three, 111. + +Thatcher, M., 37. + +108. Therapeutical Value of the Springs in the Y. N. P. Dr. C. L. +Heizmann, U. S. A. Philadelphia. _Medical Times_, vol. vi, p. 409. + +109. Thermal Springs of the Y. N. P., Report on. A. C. Peale. _Popular +Science Monthly_, vol. xxiii, p. 515. + +110. Thirty-seven Days of Peril. Truman C. Everts. _Scribner's +Monthly_, vol. iii, p. 1. + +111. Three Tetons, The. Alice Wellington Rollins. _Harper's_, vol. +lxxiv, p. 869. + +112. Through the Yellowstone Park to Fort Custer. Dr. S. Weir +Mitchell. _Lippincott's_, vol. xxvi, p. 29. + +113. Through the Yellowstone Park on Horseback. G. W. Wingate. New +York: Orange Judd. Co. 1886. + +Tillman, S. E., 41. + +Topping, E. S., 25. + +Townsend, A. P., 101. + +114. Transactions Montana Historical Society, vol. i. Helena, Montana: +Rocky Mountain Publishing Company. 1876. Contains numerous references +to the Upper Yellowstone, the most important of which is an article +entitled "Trip up the South Snake River," by Walter W. De Lacy. + +115. Travels in the Interior of America in the years 1808-10-11. John +Bradbury. Liverpool: 1817. + +Travertine, Formation of, 12. + +Trip up the South Snake River in 1863. Walter W. De Lacy, 114. + +116. Trip to the Y. N. P., in July, August and September, 1875. Gen. +W. E. Strong. Washington. 1876. + +Trumbull, Walter, 121, 137. + +117. Two-Ocean Pass, The So-called. Dr. F. V. Hayden. Vol. v, +Bulletins United States Geological Survey of the Territories, p. 223. + +Two-Ocean Pass, 30, 91, 117. + +118. Unexplained Phenomena of the Geyser Basins of the Y. N. P. +Theodore B. Comstock. _Popular Science Monthly_, vol. xii, p. 372. + +Union Pacific Railroad Company, 56. + +United States Geological Survey, Annual Reports of, 9 to 12. + +119. Valley of the Upper Yellowstone. David E. Folsom. _Western +Monthly_, vol. iv, p. 60, July, 1870. Reprinted by Mr. N. P. Langford, +with an interesting preface by himself. St. Paul, Minn. 1894. + +Vegetation of Hot Waters, 12. + +Victor, F. F., 97. + +120. Vigilante Days and Ways. N. P. Langford. St. Paul: D. D. Merrill +& Co. 1893. Contains numerous references to the Park. + +Walton, G. E., 75. + +Warren, G. K., 95. + +Washburn, H. D., 106, 137. + +121. Washburn Yellowstone Expedition, The. Walter Trumbull. _Overland +Monthly_, vol. vi, pp. 431, 489. + +122. _Wasp, The._ Vol. i, No. 17, August 13, 1842. Contains the +article quoted on pp. 44-49, stated to have been an extract from an +unpublished work entitled "Life in the Rocky Mountains." Author +unknown. _The Wasp_ was a Mormon paper, published at Nauvoo, Ill. + +Wear, D. W., 8. + +Weed, W. H., 12, 40, 156. + +123. Week in the Yellowstone, A. J. Sanford Saltus. New York: +Knickerbocker Press. 1895. Printed for private circulation. + +Wheeler, G. M., 95. + +Wheeler, O. D., 56, 126. + +Whitfield, J. E., 5, 100. + +Wiley, W. W. and S. K., 56. + +Wilson, S. A., 135. + +Wingate, G. W., 113. + +Winser, H. J., 56. + +124. Winter Sanitarium for the American Continent. _Popular Science +Monthly_, vol. xxvii, p. 290. + +125. Wonderland of America. Robert Brown. In the _Countries of the +World_, vol. iv. London, Paris, and New York. + +Wonderland, American, The Black Hills and, 20. + +Wonderland, Rambles in, 88. + +126. Wonderland Series. O. D. Wheeler. Annual Publication of Northern +Pacific Railroad Company, describing the country along the line of +that railroad. These books all contain valuable articles on the Park. +They include "6,000 Miles through Wonderland," 1893, "Indianland and +Wonderland," 1894, and "Sketches of Wonderland," 1895. + +127. Wonders of the Rocky Mountains. The Y. N. P. How to reach it. F. +V. Hayden. In _Williams' Illustrated Guide to the Pacific Railroad, +California_, etc. New York. 1876. + +128. Wonders of the West. More about the Yellowstone. F. V. Hayden. +_Scribner's Monthly_, vol. iii, No. 4, p. 388. + +129. Wonders of the Yellowstone, The. N. P. Langford. _Scribner's +Monthly_, vol. ii, pp. 1, 113. + +130. Wonders of the Yellowstone, The. Rossiter W. Raymond. In his +_Camp and Cabin_. New York: Fords, Howard & Hulburt. 1880. + +131. Wonders of the Yellowstone, The. James Richardson. New York: +Scribner, Armstrong & Co. 1872. + +132. Wonders of the Yellowstone, The. De Vallibus. _Contributor_, Salt +Lake City, vol. v, pp. 5, 47, 86. + +133. Wonders of the Yellowstone Region. _Chambers' Journal_, vol. li, +p. 315. + +134. World's Geyser Regions, The. A. C. Peale. _Popular Science +Monthly_, vol. xxvii, p. 494. + +Wright, G. M., 156. + +Yellowstone, Chronicles of the, 25. + +Yellowstone Expedition, 121. + +135. Yellowstone Expedition of 1863. S. A. Wilson. _Magazine Western +History_, vol. xiii, pp. 448, 668. + +136. Yellowstone Expedition of 1870, Report upon. Lieutenant Gustavus +C. Doane. Sen. Ex. Doc. No. 51, 41st Cong., 3d Sess. + +137. Yellowstone Expedition of 1870. A Series of Articles in Montana +Papers, describing the Expedition. These consisted of articles by Mr. +Langford in the _Helena Herald_; "Notes" by General Washburn in the +same paper; a series of articles, including "Sulphur Mountain and Mud +Volcano," "Hell-broth Springs," "Yellowstone Lake," "Mt. Everts," and +others, by Mr. Hedges, published in the _Herald_; and a similar series +in the _Helena Gazette_ by Walter Trumbull. These articles appeared +between September 26, 1870, immediately after the return of the +Expedition, and November 12th, the date of the banquet given to Mr. +Everts after his miraculous escape from his terrible adventure. + +Yellowstone, Expedition to the, 33. + +Yellowstone, Exploration of the, 35. + +Yellowstone, Falls of the, 36, 37. + +Yellowstone, Fossil Forests of the, 39, 40, 41, 42. + +Yellowstone, Geysers and Hot Springs of the, 3, 31, 48, 49, 59, 60. + +Yellowstone, Gold Hunt on the, 52. + +Yellowstone, Indian Remains on the, 63. + +Yellowstone Lake, Overhead Sounds in the Vicinity of, 13, 85. + +Yellowstone, Marvels of the, 69. + +138. Yellowstone National Park. _Scribner's Monthly_, vol. iv, p. 120. + +139. Yellowstone National Park. _Manhattan Illustrated Monthly_, vol. +iv, No. 2, p. 129, August, 1884. + +140. Yellowstone National Park. F. V. Hayden. _American Journal of +Science_, vol. ciii, p. 294. + +141. Yellowstone National Park. Theo. B. Comstock. _American +Naturalist_, vol. viii, pp. 65, 155. + +142. Yellowstone National Park. Charles F. Driscoll. _American +Architect_, vol. xiii, p. 130. + +143. Yellowstone National Park. E. Frankland. _Popular Science +Monthly_, vol. xxvii, p. 289. + +144. Yellowstone National Park. Peter Koch. _Magazine American +History_, vol. xi, p. 497. + +145. Yellowstone National Park. E. D. Cope. _American Naturalist_, +vol. xix, p. 1017. + +146. Yellowstone National Park. E. Roberts. _Art Journal_, vol. xl, +pp. 193, 325. + +147. Yellowstone National Park. F. C. Sessions. _Magazine Western +History_, vol. vi, p. 433. + +148. Yellowstone National Park. A. B. Guptill. _Outing_, vol. xvi, p. +256. + +149. Yellowstone National Park. C. G. Sargent. _Garden and Forest_, +vol. vii, p. 131. + +150. Yellowstone National Park. D. S. Jordan. _Around the World_, vol. +i, p. 148. + +151. Yellowstone National Park. (Anon.) _Nature_, vol. v, p. 403; vi, +pp. 397, 437. + +152. Yellowstone National Park. G. P. Brockett. In _Our Western +Empire_, chap. xxii. Philadelphia, 1881. + +153. Yellowstone National Park. Robert P. Porter, Henry Gannett, and +W. P. Jones. In _The West from the Census of 1880_. Chicago: Rand, +McNally & Co. 1882. + +154. Yellowstone National Park. Arnold Hague. Extract from the +proceedings of the Fifth Session of the International Congress of +Geologists. Washington, 1891. + +155. Yellowstone National Park. J. K. Peck. In his _Seven Wonders of +the World_. New York: Hunt and Eaton, p. 71. + +Yellowstone National Park, Analyses of Waters of, 5. + +Yellowstone National Park, Aquatic Invertebrate Fauna of, 13. + +Yellowstone National Park, Attractions of, 16, 96. + +Yellowstone National Park, Autumn in, 17. + +Yellowstone National Park, Camping in, 24. + +Yellowstone National Park, Cooke City _versus_, 28. + +Yellowstone National Park, Expeditions to or through, 32, 34. + +Yellowstone National Park, First Bicycle Tour of, 19. + +156. Yellowstone National Park Folio. (In preparation.) A publication +by the United States Geological Survey, consisting of four geological +and four topographical maps; a descriptive text by Prof. Arnold Hague, +of the United States Geological Survey; and a geological text by Prof. +Hague as Geologist in Charge, assisted by Messrs. J. P. Iddings, W. H. +Weed, and G. M. Wright. It is understood that this Folio is presently +to be followed by an exhaustive Monograph upon the Park. + +157. Yellowstone National Park as a Forest Reservation. Arnold Hague. +_Nation_, vol. xlvi, p. 9. + +158. Yellowstone National Park Game Exploration. E. Hough. Under the +above title a series of thirteen articles appeared in _Forest and +Stream_ in the summer of 1894, the first article appearing in the +issue of May 5, and the last in that of August 25 of that year. These +articles are of great interest and value as forming probably the most +complete discussion of the game question in the Park that has yet +appeared. Their descriptions of snow-shoe traveling and of the winter +scenery of that region are well worthy of perusal. The graphic +narrative of the arrest of the poacher, Howell, is an important +feature. + +Yellowstone National Park as a Game Preserve, 2. + +Yellowstone National Park, Geological Chemistry of, 27. + +Yellowstone National Park, Geological History of, 43. + +Yellowstone National Park, Glacial Phenomena in, 51. + +Yellowstone National Park, Guide Books of, 56. + +Yellowstone National Park, Horseback Rides through, 58. + +Yellowstone National Park, Hot Springs and Geysers of, 3, 31, 48, 49, +59, 60. + +Yellowstone National Park. How to reach it, 127. + +159. Yellowstone National Park from the Hurricane Deck of a Cayuse; +or, The Liederkranz Expedition to Geyserland. W. H. Dudley. Butte +City, Montana. 1886. + +Yellowstone National Park, Journey through, 66. + +Yellowstone National Park, Map of, 68. + +Yellowstone National Park, Mineral Waters of, 76. + +160. Yellowstone National Park and the Mountain Regions of Portions of +Idaho, Nevada, Colorado, and Utah. F. V. Hayden. Boston. 1876. Large +folio. + +Yellowstone National Park, Obsidian in, 82. + +161. Yellowstone National Park, Past, Present, and Future. Facts for +the Consideration of the Committee on Territories for 1891, and Future +Committees. G. L. Henderson. Washington: Gibson Brothers. 1891. + +162. Yellowstone National Park in Photogravure. F. J. Haynes. Fargo, +North Dakota. 1887. + +Yellowstone National Park, Protection in, 61. + +Yellowstone National Park, Protective Act, 61. + +Yellowstone National Park, Reconnaissance to, 89, 90. + +Yellowstone National Park, Reconnaissance of Streams and Lakes of, 91, +92. + +Yellowstone National Park, Reconnaissance for a Wagon Road to, 93. + +Yellowstone National Park, Roads in, 98. + +Yellowstone National Park, Scorodite in, 100. + +Yellowstone National Park, Therapeutical Value of Springs of, 108. + +Yellowstone National Park, Thermal Springs of, 109. + +Yellowstone National Park, Through the, to Fort Custer, 112. + +Yellowstone National Park, Through the, on Horseback, 113. + +Yellowstone National Park, A Trip to, 116. + +Yellowstone National Park, Unexplained Phenomena of, 118. + +Yellowstone River, Reconnaissance of, 94. + +Yellowstone, Valley of the Upper, 119. + +Yellowstone, A Week in the, 123. + +Yellowstone, Wonders of the, 129, 130, 131, 132, 133. + + +INDEX. + + + [Appendices A and E being carefully arranged alphabetically, names + found in them are not included in this index unless they also occur + in the main body of the work. The few abbreviations used are + self-explanatory.] + + + Absaroka, Indian name for Crow Tribe, 8. + Absaroka Range, name considered, 289. + described, 152, 240. + first ascent of, 80, 295. + first crossed, 104. + profile of human face in, 243. + Act of Dedication becomes a law, 95. + comments upon, 96, 97. + history of, 92-5. + provisions of, 127. + text of, 345. + vote on, 95. + Act of 1883, Military Assistance in protecting Park, 134, 347. + Act of 1890, admitting Wyoming, 347. + Act of 1894, National Park Protective Act, 141, 145, 348. + Act of 1894, regulating leases, 141, 352. + Adirondacks, proposal for reservation in, 97. + Administration of the Park, 206-8. + Administrative History of the Y. N. P., 127-141. + Adverse reports on railroad projects, etc., 141. + Africa, preserve for big game in, 97. + thermal springs of, 161. + Alder Gulch, discovery of gold in, 66. + Algonquian family of Indians, 8. + territory, 37. + Altitudes in the Y. N. P., 154. + Alvarez, Spanish trader, 46, 49. + American Fur Company, historical sketch of, 34-5, 38. + American Fur Company, territory of, 35, 37. + Amethyst Mountain, 263. + Anderson, Captain G. S., eighth superintendent Y. N. P., 139. + plans capture of Howell, 143. + quoted, 273, 276. + Andesitic lava flows in Y. N. P., 157. + "Annie," first boat on Y. Lake, 336. + Antelope, habitat of, in Y. N. P., 216. + Apollinaris Spring, 217. + Appropriations for the Y. N. P., 357. + Area of the Y. N. P., 148. + Arnold, A. J., member of Helena tourist party, 112, 120. + Arsenic Geyser, 220. + Artemesia Geyser, 228. + Arthur, Chester A., visits Y. N. P., 107, 371. + Assistant Superintendents, Y. N. P., 135. + Astor, John Jacob, and the American fur trade, 34. + Astorians, The, 21, 23. + departure of, for Pacific coast, 31 + surrender to N. W. Fur Co., 33. + Astringent Creek, 143. + Atlantic Creek, 246. + Atmosphere of the Y. N. P., 199, 210. + Australia, thermal springs of, 161. + Autumn foliage in the Y. N. P., 192. + + + Baird, S. F., presents Lieutenant Doane's report to Phil. Soc. of + Washington, 83. + Bannock Indians, 8, 10. + incursion of, into Y. N. P., 126, 215. + territory of, 10. + Bannock Peak, 217. + Bannock Trail, 17, 24, 43. + Baring-Gould's theory of geyser action, 166. + Barlow, Captain J. W., expedition of, 85-6, 291. + quoted, 6, 231, 344. + report of, 86. + Baronett, C. J., biographical sketch, 292. + Baronett's Bridge burned, 124. + history of, 261. + Basaltic lava flows in Y. N. P., 157. + Bath Lake, 214. + Battle of trappers and Indians near Y. Lake, 49. + Battle of the Big Hole, 116. + Bays of the Y. Lake, 335. + Bears and tourists, 184. + Bear Creek, 70. + Beaver Lake, 219. + Bechler River, 151. + Bee Hive Geyser, 234. + Belknap, W. W., visits Y. N. P., 105. + Beryl Spring, 221. + Bibliography of the Y. N. P., 361. + Biddle Lake, first name for Jackson Lake, 331. + Big Game Ridge, 153. + Big Hole, Battle of the, 116. + Bighorn River, Lisa's fort on, 29, 31. + source of, 188. + Big Thunder, Nez Percé chief, 113. + Birds in the Y. N. P., 185. + Biscuit Basin, 228. + Blackfeet Indians, 8, 9. + territory of, 8, 9, 18. + treaties with, 18, 19. + Black Growler, 175, 220. + Black Sand Basin, 230. + Blaine, J. G., introduces Langford at Washington lecture, 84. + signs Act of Dedication, 346. + Block house, ancient, in Y. N. P., 41. + Boat, first on Y. Lake, 337. + Boat ride on Y. Lake, 243. + Boiling River, 212. + Boiling Springs in Y. N. P., 174. + Bonneville, Captain, 37. + refers to Firehole River, 49, 316. + Bottler's Ranch, 120. + Boundaries of the Y. N. P., 148, 278-280, 333. + Boutelle, Captain F. A., Seventh Superintendent of the Park, 139. + Bradbury, John, 3, 21. + Bradbury, John, interviews Colter, 28. + Bradley, F. H., quoted, 321, 331, 332, 333. + Bridge, Baronett. See _Baronett's Bridge_. + Bridge Creek, 244. + Bridge, Natural, 244. + Bridge over the Y. River, 203. + Bridger, James, ability of as guide, 328. + biographical sketch, 327. + acquaintance of with Park country, 51, 52, 61. + disbelieved by the public, 53, 57. + guide to Captain Raynolds, 59. + his stories, 54-56. + partner in Rocky Mountain Fur Company, 36. + and Two-Ocean Pass, 61, 245. + British Fur Companies, strife between, 34. + British Fur Traders excluded from U. S. Territory, 34. + Bronze Geyser, 240. + Buffalo of Y. N. P., 143, 184. + Buildings at Mammoth Hot Springs, 209, 216. + Buildings in Y. N. P. in 1880, 132. + Bunsen Peak, 215. + Bunsen's theory of geyser action, 163-5. + Burgess, Felix, government scout, 110. + arrests Howell, 143, 144. + "Burning Mountains," 13, 16. + + + Cache Creek, name of, 70. + Calcareous Springs in the Y. N. P., 173. + California, discovery of gold in, 39, 100. + Camas Creek, Battle of, 116. + Camping in the Y. N. P., 205. + Canadian National Park, 97. + Canadian Niagara Park, 97. + Cañon Hotel, 253. + Capes of the Y. Lake, 336. + Carpenter, Frank and Ida, members of Radersburg tourist party, 112. + experiences of, with Nez Percés, 117-19. + Carpenter, R. E., Fourth Superintendent Y. N. P., 136. + removed from office, 136. + Cascade Creek, 180, 253. + Castle Geyser, 167, 230. + Cathedral Rock, 215. + Catlin, George, biographical sketch of, 87-8. + Indian Gallery of, 88. + originates Park idea, 89. + quoted, 88-9. + Chittenden, Lieutenant, H. M., measures height of Upper Fall, 326. + Chouteau, Valle & Co. buy out Astor, 35. + Clagett W. H., his work for Park bill, 92, 94. + Claimants for credit of originating Park idea, 90. + Clark's Fork Mining District, 264. + Clark, Wm., gives names to Y. Lake and Jackson Lake, 24. + mentioned, 5, 21, 22. + receives information from Colter, 27, 31. + Cleopatra Spring, 214. + Climate of the Y. N. P., 189, 198. + Coast and Geodetic Survey, monument of, near Y. Lake, 248. + Cold-water geyser, 48. + Cole, Senator, remarks of, on Park bill, 94. + Colfax, Schuyler, signs Act of Dedication, 346. + Color of rock in Grand Cañon, 253. + water in Hot Springs, 172, 213. + Colter, John, adventure of, with the Blackfeet, 28-31. + character of, 21. + declines to join the Astorians, 31. + discovers Grand Cañon of the Y., 27. + discovers Jackson Lake, 24. + discovers Mammoth Hot Springs, 26. + discovers Tar Spring on the Stinkingwater, 23. + discovers Y. Lake, 24, 27. + gives Clark information, 31. + marries, 31. + receives discharge from Lewis and Clark, 20. + returns to St. Louis, 31. + whereabouts of, in winter of 1806-7, 22. + "Colter's Hell," 28, 31. + "Colter's River," 26. + "Colter's Route in 1807," 25-7. + Comet Geyser, 230. + Commission to examine into grievances of Nez Percé Indians, 114, 115. + Comstock, T. B., member of Captain Jones' party in 1873, 105. + Comstock, T. B., his theory of geyser action, 166. + quoted 342, 343, 344. + Conant Creek, trail along, 12, 24. + Cone Geysers, 167. + Conger, P. H., Third Superintendent of Y. N. P., 131. + resigns, 136. + Congress abolishes civilian police force in Park, 137. + Congress Geyser, 220. + Congressional Reports on Y. N. P., 141. + Constant Geyser, 220. + Continental Divide, 151, 238. + Cook, C. W., Member of Folsom Party in 1869, 73. + Cooke City, 264. + "Corduroying" on snow-shoes, 195. + Cost of visiting Y. N. P., 274. + Cowan, Mr. and Mrs. George F., members Radersburg tourist party, 112. + experiences of, with Nez Percés, 118-120. + re-visit Park, 120. + Craig Pass, 238, 338. + Cretaceous Period in Y. N. P., 156. + Crevice Creek, 71. + Crook, General George, visits Park, 106. + Crosby, Schuyler, appeals to Congress for protection to Y. N. P., 133. + member of presidential party, 1883, 107. + Crow Indians, territory of, 8, 18. + treaties with, 18, 19. + tribal characteristics, 8. + Crystal Falls, 80, 253. + Cubs, The, 232. + Cupid's Cave, 214. + + + Danger to future existence of Y. N. P., 281. + Dawes, Hon. H. L., 94, 336. + Dawes, Miss Anna L., 336. + Death Gulch, 264. + De Lacy Creek, 239. + De Lacy, W. W., discovers Lower Geyser Basin, 68. + discovers Shoshone Lake, 68. + history of his expedition, 67-69. + Deluge Geyser, 243. + Denudation and erosion, work of, in Y. N. P., 158. + "Devil," frequency of name in Y. N. P., 287, 388. + Devil's Kitchen, 214. + Diamond, The, Bridger's story of, 35. + Dietrich, Richard, member of Helena tourist party, 111. + killed by Nez Percés, 122. + Dingee, William, member of Helena tourist party, 112. + Discovery of gold, 65, 66. + Discovery of the Y., 72. + long delay in, 101. + Doane, Lieutenant G. C., ascends Absaroka Range, 80, 295. + biographical sketch, 294. + commands escort to Washburn Expedition, 14, 76. + descends Grand Cañon, 80. + guide to General Belknap, 105. + measures height of Upper Falls, 325. + quoted, 6, 14, 78, 175, 235, 237, 254, 261, 297, 325, 343. + report of, upon Washburn Expedition, 83. + Dome, The, 217. + Drainage areas of Y. N. P., 149. + "Dreamers" among the Nez Percés, 114. + Du Charne, Baptiste, upon the Upper Y. in 1824, 41. + Duncan, L., member of Helena tourist party, 1877, 111. + Dunnell, M. H., and Park bill, 93. + Dunraven, Earl of, 9. + publishes "Great Divide," 295. + quoted, 96. + visits Y. N. P., 295. + + + Early knowledge of the Y., 50, 60. + East Gardiner Cañon and Falls, 215. + Echinus Geyser, 220. + Elephant Back, original name for Washburn Range, 152, 296. + Electric Peak, 152, 215. + Electric railways in Y. N. P., 204, 276, 277, 280, 365. + Elk in Y. N. P., 184, 280. + Elliott, H. W., 336, 337. + Emerald Pool (Norris Geyser Basin), 220. + (Upper Geyser Basin), 230. + Equipment for snow-shoe traveling, 195. + Erosion, work of, in Y. N. P., 158. + Eustis Lake, first name for Y. Lake, 335. + Eustis, William, 334. + Evermann, B. W., describes Two-Ocean Pass, 245. + Everts, Mt., 153, 215, 216. + Everts, T. C., experience of, in 1870, 81, 297. + member of Washburn Party, 76. + Excelsior Geyser, 226. + Expedition of 1869. See _Folsom Expedition_. + of 1870. See _Washburn Expedition_. + Explorations by U. S. Government, relation of to Y. N. P., 100. + Explorers, rush of, to Y. N. P., 103. + + + Face, profile of in Absaroka Range, 293. + Fairy Fall, 226. + Falls River, 151. + Basin, 154. + Falls of the Yellowstone described, 251, 254. + measurement of, 80, 105, 325-6. + not on Colter's map, 27. + Fan Geyser, 229. + Fauna of the Y. N. P., 181. + Fearless Geyser, 220. + Firehole Cascade, 222. + Spring, 225. + River, 43, 150. + Fish Commission U. S., work of, in Y. N. P., 186. + Fishes of the Y. N. P., 185, 186. + Fishing Cone, story of, 56. + Fishing Cone, west shore Y. Lake, 242. + Fishless streams of the Y. N. P., 186. + Flora of the Y. N. P., 187. + Flow of water from Y. N. P., 190. + Flowers of the Y. N. P., 190. + Foller, August, member of Helena tourist party, 112. + Folsom, D. E., 73. + article by, in _Western Monthly_, 74. + measures Falls of the Y., 325. + quoted, 160, 241, 256. + suggests Park idea, 91. + Folsom Expedition, 72-4. + Forbes, S. A., quoted, 246. + Ford of the Y. River at Mud Geyser, 26, 249. + at Tower Creek, 261. + _Forest and Stream_, 145, 281, 383. + Forest Reserve, 148. + Forests of the Y. N. P., economic value of, 188. + effect of railroads upon, 272. + extent of, 187. + preservation of, 207. + Formations about geysers, 169. + Fort Yellowstone, 208, 216. + Fossil Forests of the Y., 177-180, 263. + Fountain Geyser, 167, 223. + Fountain geysers, 167. + Fountain Hotel, 223. + "Free trappers," 37. + French name for Y. River, 2, 7. + French and Indian War, 4. + Friends of the Y. N. P., 281. + Frying Pan, 219. + Funds for the Y. N. P.; lack of, 128. + Fur companies, growth and history, 32-36. + territory controlled by, 37. + Fur trade, climax in, 32, 39. + competition in, 38. + decline of, 39, 100. + in its relation to western exploration, 32, 99, 100. + + + Gallatin Range, 152. + Gallatin River, 26, 150. + Game preserve, the Y. N. P. as a, 181. + Game in the Y. N. P., destruction of, 183. + killing of, prohibited, 134. + present condition of, 184, 383. + protection of, 181, 207. + tourists and, 184. + Gandy, Captain C. M., photographic work of, in Y. N. P., vii. + Gannett, Henry, measures heights of Falls, 326. + quoted, 293, 295, 296. + Gardiner's Hole, 317. + Gardiner River, 150, 212. + early known to trappers, 43, 318. + Geographical names, importance of, 285. + policy of the U. S. G. S. in regard to, 286. + in the Y. N. P., 108, 285-6. + Geologic activity diminishing, 159. + Geology of the Y. N. P., 156-161. + Geyser action, theories concerning, 163-6. + "Geyser," etymology of, 162. + Geyser regions of the world, 160-161. + Geysers, description of, 162. + formations about, 169. + Soaping, 165. + underground connection, 169. + water supply for, 169. + Giant Geyser, 167, 230. + Giantess Geyser, 167, 232. + "Giant's Face," 244. + Gibbon Cañon, 221. + Gibbon Falls, 222. + Gibbon, John, 104. + battle of, with Nez Percés, 116. + Gibbon Meadows, 221. + Gibbon Paintpots, 221. + Gibbon River, 104, 150, 221. + Gillette, W. C., member of Washburn Party, 76. + Glacial Epoch in Y. N. P., 158. + Glaciers, channels of, 158. + Glass Mountain, Bridger's story, 54. + Gold, discovery of, 65. + in California, 39, 100. + in Idaho, 65. + in Montana, 65, 66. + in the Nez Percé Reservation, 113. + Golden Gate, 215. + Gold-seekers on the Yellowstone, 101. + Government officials and protection of Y. N. P., 282. + Grand Cañon of the Y., colors in, 6, 254. + Colter discovers the, 27. + description of, 253-8. + in winter, 257. + Grand Geyser, 167, 231. + Grand Teton, 153. + ascent of, 222, 309. + granite blocks near summit, 12, 222, 223. + name considered, 323. + Granite Block near Grand Cañon, 258. + Granite Blocks near summit of Grand Teton, 12, 222, 223. + Grant, U. S., signs Act of Dedication, 346. + Gray Peak, 217. + Great Bend of the Y., 6, 43. + Great Fountain Geyser, 167, 224. + Green River, 188. + Grinnell, G. B., 105. + Grotto Geyser, 229. + Grotto Spring, 249. + Gunnison, Captain J. W., and James Bridger, 52. + quoted, 52, 329. + + + Hague, Arnold, quoted, 160, 182, 286, 290, 306, 321. + referred to, 245, 322. + Hancock, Gen. W. S., 76, 300. + Harris, Captain Moses, quoted, 284. + Sixth Superintendent Y. N. P., 138. + Hart Lake, 151, 242 + Geyser Basin, 243. + Hauser, S. T., descends Grand Cañon, 80. + member of Washburn Party, 76. + Hayden and Barlow discover Mammoth Hot Springs, 85. + route of, 85, 86. + Hayden Expedition of 1871, 85, 86. + results, 86. + Hayden Expeditions of 1872 and 1878, 103. + Hayden, F. V., biographical sketch, 338-340. + connection of, with Park bill, 86, 92, 93, 95. + explorations of, in Y. N. P., 85, 103. + geologist to Captain Raynolds, 59. + quoted, 6, 95, 213, 286, 293, 294, 296, 301, 307, 314, 317, 330, + 332, 341. + referred to, 245. + Hayden Valley, 154, 250. + Haynes, F. J., accompanies Presidential party, 107, 371. + winter tours of Y. N. P., 109. + work of, in Y. N. P., vii. + Health resort, Y. N. P. as a, 199. + Heap, Captain D. P., with Captain Barlow, 1871, 85. + Hedges, Cornelius, member of Washburn Party, 76, 83. + quoted, 32, 76, 249, 320. + originates National Park project, 91. + _Helena Herald_, and Washburn Expedition, 83. + Helena tourists, 1877, 111. + experiences of, with Nez Percés, 121, 122. + Hell Roaring Creek, 71, 287. + Henry, Andrew, fur trader, 330. + Henry, Joseph, quoted, 89. + Henry Lake, 330. + Howard's command at, 116. + Highland Plateau, 153. + Holmes, Mount, 217. + Holmes, Wm. H., quoted, 306. + Hoodoo Region, 265. + Hostility to the Y. N. P., vi., 267-9. + Hotel system of Y. N. P., 204. + Hot Spring, color of water in, 172, 213. + Hot Springs of the Y. N. P., 162, 172-5. + Hot Springs and Geysers, water supply for, 169. + Hot Springs in Grand Cañon, 254. + Hough, E., connection of, with the Howell episode, 145, 383. + quoted, 258. + winter tour of, through Y. N. P., 110, 145. + Howard, General O. O., and Nez Percé campaign, 106, 115, 116, 123. + "Howard's Trail," 126. + Howell the Poacher, capture and conviction of, 144-6. + Hoyt, J. W., expedition of, 15, 106. + Hudson's Bay Fur Company, historical sketch 33-5. + territory of, 34, 37. + Hurricane, The, 220. + Huston, George, crosses Park country, 71. + + + Iceland, thermal springs of, 161. + Idaho, admission of, to Union, 282. + Indians and name Yellowstone, 3, 7, 16. + implements of, in Y. N. P., 12. + knowledge of, concerning the geyser regions, 8, 13-17, 98. + title of, to Y. N. P., 19. + traditions of, concerning Y. N. P., 16. + trails of, in Y. N. P., 11, 12, 13. + treaties with, 18, 19. + tribes of, near Y. N. P., 8. + visits of, to Park country, 17. + Inscription on pine tree near Grand Cañon, 40, 251. + Inspiration Point, 254. + Invalids at Mammoth Hot Springs in 1871, 200, 212. + Irving, Washington, quotes Bradbury, 28. + Isa Lake, 238. + Islands of Y. Lake, 335. + Itasca State Park, 97. + + + Jackson, David, fur trader, 36. + Jackson Lake, first named by Wm. Clark, 24, 331. + discovered, 24. + mentioned, 152, 222. + Jackson, W. H., photographer in Y. N. P., vii. + Jefferson Fork, scene of Colter's adventure, 29. + Jefferson, Thomas, 1. + Jewel Geyser, 228. + Jones Creek, 104. + Jones, Captain W. A., discovers and names Two-Gwo-Tee Pass, 105. + discovers Two-Ocean Pass, 104, 245. + expedition of, 15, 104. + first to cross Absaroka Range, 104. + measures Y. Falls, 326. + names mountains east of Park, 289. + quoted, 6. + Joseph, Non-treaty Nez Percé chief, 113, 126. + estimate of his character, 301. + Joseph Peak, 217. + Junction Butte, 261. + Junction Valley, 154, 263. + Jupiter Terrace, 214. + + + _Kansas City Journal_, editor of, rejects Bridger's statements, 53. + Kenck, Charles, member Helena Tourist Party, 112. + killed by Nez Percés, 122. + Kepler Cascade, 237. + Killing of game in Y. N. P. prohibited, 134. + Kingman, Lieutenant D. C., prepares project for Park road system, 140. + quoted, 271. + reports of, 140. + Kingman Pass, 215. + + + Lake Shore Geyser, 242. + Lake View, 240. + Lakes of the Y. N. P., 151. + Lamar River, 150. + Cañon of, 263. + Langford, N. P., 27, 55. + advocates Park project, 92. + ascends Absaroka Range, 80, 295. + ascends Grand Teton, 222, 309. + biographical sketch of, 302. + first Superintendent Y. N. P., 129. + lectures on the Washburn Expedition, 84. + measures height of Lower Fall, 325. + member of the Washburn Expedition, 75. + publishes articles on Washburn Expedition, 84. + quoted, 92, 232, 305, 312, 317. + reprints Folsom's article, 74. + work of, for Park Bill, 92-3. + Laws for Y. N. P., lack of, 127. + Leases, Act of 1894 regulating, 141, 352. + of land to Y. N. P. Improvement Co., 132. + and privileges in Y. N. P., 132, 207. + revenue from, 128. + Lewis and Clark among the Mandans, 1. + expedition of, 101. + give Colter his discharge, 20. + and North-west Fur Co., traders, 33. + use name "Yellow Stone," 1, 2. + quoted, 20. + return journey of, 20. + send report to President Jefferson, 1. + Lewis Lake, 151. + Lewis, Meriwether, kills a Blackfoot Indian, 9. + Lewis River, 151. + Liberty Cap, 214. + "Life in the Rocky Mountains," referred to, 44. + quoted from, 44, 48. + Lincoln Pass, 23. + Linton, Edwin, quoted, 247. + Lion Geyser, 232. + Lioness Geyser, 232. + Lisa, Manuel, at mouth of Bighorn River, 29. + Locomotive Spring, 220. + Lone Star Geyser, 167, 237. + "Lone Traders," 37. + Looking Glass, Nez Percé chief, 113. + Lookout Hill, 214. + Lookout Point, 254. + Louisiana, cession of to U. S., 3. + Lower Fall of the Y., described, 254. + recorded measurements of, 325-6 + Lower Geyser Basin, 223. + Ludlow, Captain William, explorations of, 105. + measures Falls of Y., 105, 326. + quoted, 209, 253, 297. + report of, 105. + + + Mackenzie, theory of geyser action, 166. + Madison Lake, 237, 333. + Madison Plateau, 153. + Madison River, 150. + Madison Valley, 154. + Mammoth Hot Springs, buildings at, 209, 216. + described, 173, 212. + discovery of, 26, 85. + Mandan Indians, 1, 2, 4. + Mann, Charles, member of Radersburg Tourist party, 112. + Map of Y. N. P., vii. + Map, Raynolds', 63. + Marten traps, discovery of cache of, 41. + Mason, Major J. W., commands escort to Governor Hoyt, 106. + Maynadier, Lieutenant, commands detachment of Raynolds Party, 59, 60. + quoted, 62. + McCartney, C. J., attacked by Nez Percés, 123. + McCartney Cave, 214. + Meek, Joseph, adventures of, 42. + Members of Congress from States near Park, 282-3. + Mexico, war with, 39, 100. + Middle Gardiner Falls and Cañon, 215. + Midway Geyser Basin, 226. + Mileage of Park Road System, 202. + Miles, General N. A., intercepts and captures Nez Percés, 124. + Mineral Springs of the Y. N. P., therapeutic value of, 199 + Minerva Terrace, 214. + Minnetaree, Indian dialect, 7. + Minute Man, 220. + Mirror Plateau, 153. + Missouri Fur Co., 29, 35. + _Missouri Gazette_, extract from, 21, 23. + Missouri River, 1, 4, 150, 188. + Missouri River, fur trade along, 35. + _Mi tsi a-da-zi_, Indian name for Yellowstone, 7. + Monarch Geyser, 220. + Montana Territory, becomes a state, 288. + early explorations in, 3. + emigration to, 66. + population of, in 1862, 66. + Monument Geyser Basin, 221. + Monument, survey, 248. + Moore, Charles, sketches by, 168. + records height of Falls, 326. + Moran, Thomas, painting by, 256. + quoted, 256. + Mormon emigration, 39, 100. + Morning Glory, 229. + Mound, artificial in Y. N. P., 12. + Mountain sheep of Y. N. P., 216. + Mountain stream of hot water, Bridger's story, 55. + Mountain Systems of the West, formation of, 156. + of the Y. N. P., 151, 152. + Mud Geyser, Norris Geyser Basin, 220. + Y. River, 249, + Mud Volcano, 248. + Mystic Fall, 228. + + + Names of Hot Springs and Geysers, 287. + Narrow Gauge Terrace, 214. + National Park project, origin of, 87-92. + National Park Protective Act, 110, 141-5, 348. + National Parks on sites of battle-fields, 97. + Natural Bridge, 244. + Navigation of Y. Lake and River, 203. + New Crater Geyser, 220. + _New York Tribune_ quotes Langford on Park project, 92. + New Zealand, thermal springs of, 97, 161. + Nez Percé Creek, 126, 150, 223. + Nez Percé Indians attack Y. N. P. tourists, 118, 121. + cede territory to U. S., 113. + characteristics of, 114. + fate of, 126. + impress white man as guide, 14. + incursion of, into Y. N. P., 117-123, 215. + surrender to Miles, 124. + territory of, 112. + treaties with, 113. + Nez Percé War, beginning of, 115. + causes of, 112, 115. + criticism upon, 125. + statistics of, 125. + Niagara Falls compared with the Falls of the Y., 251, 254. + original sketch of, 168. + Niagara Park, Canadian, 97. + New York State, 97. + Non-treaty Nez Percés, 113. + Norris, P. W., biographical sketch of, 303. + builds road of volcanic glass, 218. + criticism of his work, 131. + discoveries of, 40, 41, 108, 130. + names Dunraven Peak after himself, 295. + quoted, 15, 218, 265, 307, 314, 324, 331, 343. + road work of, 130. + second Superintendent Y. N. P., 14, 129, 130. + writings of, 131. + Norris Geyser Basin, 220, 340. + discovery of, 340. + North-west Fur Company and name "Yellowstone," 4. + sketch of, 33. + + + Oblong Geyser, 230. + Obsidian Cliff, 217. + first road past, 218. + Indian quarry at, 12, 217. + Old Faithful, 167, 234-6. + discovery of, 82. + Oldham, Albert, member Radersburg tourist party, 112. + "Old Man of the Mountains," 244. + Orange Geyser, 214. + Original sketches of Park scenery, 168, 169. + Orographic agencies, work of, in Park, 157. + Overhead sounds near Y. Lake, 246. + + + Pacific Creek, 246. + Pacific Fur Co., 34. + Paintpots described, 174. + on west shore Y. Lake, 242. + Peale, A. C., quoted, 13, 323, 344. + work of, in Y. N. P., 361, 363. + Pearl Geyser, 220. + Pend d'Oreilles Indians in geyser basins, 14, 45. + Peterson, W., member of Folsom party, 73. + Petrifactions in Y. N. P., Bridger's story, 56. + perfection of, 179. + Pfister, Frederick, member of Helena tourist party, 112. + Phillips, W. H., connection of, with Y. N. P., 281. + Photography of Grand Cañon, 256. + _Pierre Janne._ See _Roche Janne_. + Pierre's Hole, 24. + Pike, Z. M., gives Spanish translation of _Pierre Janne_, 5. + Pine, prevalence of, in Y. N. P., 188. + Pine tree inscribed with date 1819, 40, 251. + Pitchstone Plateau, 153. + Plateaus of the Y. N. P., 153. + Platte River, 188. + Poe, General O. M., 105. + quoted, 287. + Pompey's Pillar, 5. + Potts, companion of Colter, 29. + Precedent, effect of, upon future of Y. N. P, 284. + Presidential Party of 1883, 107, 371. + Prismatic Lake, 227. + Private interests and Y. N. P., 280. + Prospecting expeditions in the Upper Y., 7, 66-71. + Prospectors, unknown, slain by Nez Percés, 121. + Protection of game, 181, 207. + Protective Act, Y. N. P., 110, 141. + Public business in Y. N. P., 139. + Pulpit Terrace, 214. + Punch bowl, 230. + Pryor's Fork, 22. + Pryor's Gap, 23, 24. + + + Quadrant Mountain, 217. + Quiescent Springs, 172-3. + + + Radersburg tourist party, 1877, 112. + experiences of, with Nez Percés, 117-120. + Railroads and the Y. N. P., 133, 270-6, 280, 365. + Rapids of the Y. River, 251. + Raymond, R. W., quoted, 6. + Raynolds, Captain W. F., expedition of, 58, 59, 101. + map of, 62. + quoted, 60, 61, 62. + report of, 63. + Red Mountain Range, 152. + Rendezvous in the fur trade, 36. + Reservoir, Y. Lake as a, 190. + Rhyolitic rocks in Y. N. P., 157. + "River of the West," 42. + quoted from, 42, 317. + River sources in and near Y. N. P., 188. + Riverside Geyser, 229. + Road system of the Y. N. P., 140, 201-7. + Roberts, Joseph, member of Helena tourist party, 112. + _Roche Janne_, French name for Y. River, 2, 3, 7. + Rocky Mountains ascended by De La Verendrye, 4. + Rocky Mountain Fur Company sketch, of, 36, 38. + territory of, 36, 37. + Routes from the east to the Pacific Coast, 100. + Rules and Regulations for the Y. N. P., 354. + Rustic Falls, 215. + Rustic Geyser, old logs around, 13, 243. + + + Sapphire Pool, 228. + Scenery of the Y. N, P., 155, 209. + in winter, 197. + Scenic portion of tourist route, 260. + Schemes to destroy the Y. N. P., 268. + Schofield, Lieutenant, meets Radersburg tourists, 120. + Schurz, Carl, visits Park, 106. + Schwatka, Frederick, attempts winter journey through Y. N. P., 108. + Seasons in the Y. N. P., 193, 199 + Secretary of the Interior applies for military aid, 137. + instruction of, to first superintendent, 270. + Segregation projects, 133, 278, 280, 365. + Sepulcher Mountain, 215. + Sequoia National Park, 97. + Sheepeater Indians, 8, 18, 306. + characteristics of, 10, 11. + ignorant of geyser regions, 15. + number of, 17. + original occupants of park country, 10, 11, 13, 14, 17. + relics of, 13. + Sheridan Mt., 15, 152, 242. + an extinct volcano, 156. + Sheridan, General P. H., aids exploration and discovery, 75. + gives public warning of dangers to Park, 106, 133. + quoted, 15. + visits Park, 106, 107. + Sherman, General W. T., quoted, 111, 256. + visits Park, 105. + Shively, Nez Percé guide, 123. + Shoshonean family of Indians, 8. + territory, 37. + Shoshone Indians, 8, 18. + characteristics of, 9, 10. + Spanish articles among, 5. + treaty with, 18. + Shoshone Geyser Basin, 239. + Shoshone Lake, 151, 239, 333. + Shoshone Point, 239. + Sierra Shoshone Range, 152. + Silica, its function in geyser formation, 170. + Siouan family of Indians, 8. + territory, 37. + _Ski_, Norwegian snow-shoe, 194. + Slough Creek, 71. + Smith, Jacob, member of Washburn Party, 76. + Smith, Jedediah, fur trader, 36. + Snake Creek, battle of, 124. + Snake River, 26, 150. + Snowfall in Y. N. P., 193. + Snow-shoe traveling in Y. N. P., 194, 195, 196. + Snowy Range, 152. + Soaping Geysers, 165, 343. + Soda Butte, 264. + Cañon, 264. + Creek, 150. + Soda Spring, 221. + Solar eclipse of 1860, 59. + South-west Fur Co., 35. + Spanish traders and name "Yellowstone," 5. + Specimen Ridge, 179, 180, 263. + Spike Geyser, 243. + Splendid Geyser, 230. + Sponge, The, 232. + Spring Creek Cañon, 238. + Spurgin, Captain W. F., builds road for Howard across + Y. N. P., 124, 126. + Stage rides in Y. N. P., 277. + Stanley, E. J., quoted, 322. + Stanton, Captain W. S., makes reconnaissance through Y. N. P., 106. + Steady Geyser, 225. + Steamboat, first to reach mouth of Y. River, 87. + Steamboat Spring, 175, 244. + Steam vents, 175. + Stevenson, James, ascends Grand Teton, 222, 309. + biographical sketch, 307-308. + builds first boat on Y. Lake, 337. + Stewart, J., member of Helena party of tourists, 112. + Stickney, Benj., member of Washburn party, 76. + descends to bottom of Grand Cañon, 80. + Stinking Cabin Creek, 322. + Stone, Benj., experience of with Nez Percés, 123. + member Helena party of tourists, 112. + Stone, Mrs. H. H., first white woman to visit Park, 340. + Streams of Y. N. P., fish in, 186. + Strong, Gen. W. E., accompanies Secretary Belknap to Y. N. P., 105. + Stuart, James, 65, 70. + Sturgis, General S. D., attacks Nez Percés, 124. + fails to intercept Nez Percés, 124. + Sublette Lake, early name for Y. Lake, 335. + Sublette, William, fur trader, 36. + Subterranean heat, origin of, 158. + Sulphur Mountain, 249. + Spring, 250. + Superintendents of the Park, duties of, 206, 207. + list of, 359. + Swan Lake, 217. + Flats, 154. + + + Talmage, T. DeWitt, quoted, 253, 257. + Temperatures in Y. N. P., 198. + Terraces, formation of, 173, 212. + Terrace Mountain, 215. + Tertiary Period in Y. N. P., 156. + Teton, Grand. See _Grand Teton_. + Teton Pass, 24. + Teton Range, 152, 222, 243. + Therapeutic value of springs in Y. N. P., 199. + Thermal activity in Y. N. P. not diminishing, 160. + Thermal springs, geographical distribution of, 160. + Third Cañon of the Y., 266. + Thompson, David, and name "Yellowstone," 1, 2. + and source of Y. River, 2. + Thumb of Y. Lake, 241, 335. + Topping, E. S., quoted, 313, 315. + Tour of the Y. N. P., best season for, 210. + Tourists and wild animals in Y. N. P., 184. + Tourists' season in Y. N. P., 193. + Tower Falls, 261. + discovered, 78. + Transportation in the Y. N. P., 204. + Trappers ignorant of geyser regions, 99. + Treaties with Indians, 18, 19. + Tree inscribed with date 1819, 40, 251. + Trees of Y. N. P., 187. + Trout Creek, serpentine course of, 249. + Trout in Y. Lake, 186. + Trumbull, Walter, member Washburn Party, 76. + publications by, 83, 84. + sketches by, 169. + _Tukuarika_, native name for Sheepeater Indians, 8, 10. + Turban Geyser, 230. + Turquoise Spring, 227. + Twin Buttes, 225. + Twin Lakes, 219. + Two-Gwo-Tee Pass, 105. + Two-Ocean Pass, 59, 105, 245, 333. + crossed by fish, 186. + discovered, 104, 245. + Tyndall, John, quoted, 174. + + + Union Geyser, 167, 239. + Pass, 23, 59. + U. S. Geological Survey, explorations under, 103. + measurements by, of height of Falls, 326. + names by, in Y. N. P., 286. + Unknown visitor to geyser basins in 1833, 14, 44. + Upper Fall of the Y., 251. + Upper Geyser Basin, 228. + discovery of, 82. + visited in 1833, 44. + + + Valleys of the Y. N. P., 153. + Vandalism in the Y. N. P., 207. + Verendrye, Chevalier de la, explorations of, 4. + Vest, Senator G. C., connection of with Y. N. P., 281. + member Presidential party, 1883, 107. + quoted, 282. + Virginia Cascade, 220. + Visitors to Y. N. P. in 1883, 107. + Vixen Geyser, 220. + Volcanic rocks in Y. N. P., 157. + + + War of Rebellion, 63. + War with Mexico, 100. + Washburn Expedition of 1870, history of, 75-84. + organization of, 75-7. + results of, 84. + revives Park idea, 90. + Washburn, General H. D., biographical sketch, 311. + chief of Washburn Expedition, 75. + "notes" of, upon Washburn Expedition, 83. + quoted, 325. + Washburn, Mt., 152, 260. + an extinct volcano, 156. + Washburn Range, 17,152. + original name of, 152. + on Colter's map, 26. + _Wasp_, The, 48. + Watchmen at Park hotels in winter, 194. + Water-falls of Y. N. P., 151, 324. + Wear, D. W., Fifth Superintendent Y. N. P., 137. + Weed, W. H., quoted, 264. + Weikert, A. J., member of Helena tourist party, 111. + experience of, with Nez Percés, 123-6. + We-Saw, Shoshone Indian, 15. + West Shore geyser basin, 242. + White Bird, Nez Percé chief, 113. + White Elephant, 214. + Wilkie, Leslie, member Helena tourist party, 112. + Willow Park, 154, 217. + Wingate, G. W., quoted, 190. + Winter journeys through the Y. N. P., 108. + Winter in the Y. N. P., 197, 198. + Witch Creek, 243. + Wyeth, Nathaniel J., 37. + Wyoming, admission of, to Union, 282,347. + Wyoming Territory attempts to protect Park, 134, 135. + + + "Yancey's," 263. + "Yellowstone," origin of name, 1-7. + Spanish translation of, 5, note. + _Yellowstone_, first steamboat at mouth of Y. River, 87. + Yellowstone, discovery of the, 72. + early knowledge of the, 40, 50, 60. + fossil forests of the, 177-180, 263. + gold-seekers on the, 101. + Grand Cañon of, colors in, 6, 254. + Third Cañon of the, 266. + Upper, prospecting expeditions on the, 66-71. + Upper, why so long unknown, 99, 101. + Yellowstone Falls, compared with Niagara, 251, 254. + Lower, 251, 254. + measurement of heights, 80, 325-6. + Upper, 261. + Yellowstone Lake, 151, 240, 241. + bays of, 333. + boat ride on, 243. + capes of, 336. + compared with other lakes, 241. + discovered, 24, 27, 80. + first boat on, 337. + form of, 240. + islands of, 335. + monument on shore of, 248. + names of, 334. + navigation of, 203. + overhead sounds near, 246. + reservoir possibilities of, 190. + thumb, of, 241. + trout of, 186. + Yellowstone National Park, administration of, 206. + administrative history of, 127-148. + altitudes in, 154. + area of, 148. + Assistant Superintendents of, 135. + atmosphere of, 210. + autumn foliage of, 192. + basaltic lava flows in, 157. + birds, 185. + boundaries of, 148, 278-280. + buffalo of, 143, 184. + buildings of, in 1880, 132. + calcareous springs of, 173. + camping in, 205. + climate of, 189, 198. + Congressional Reports on, 141. + cost of visiting, 274. + Cretaceous Period in, 156. + danger to future existence of, 281. + drainage areas of, 149. + economic importance of, 190. + electric railways in, 204, 276-280. + elk in, 280. + exploration of, 103, 108. + fauna of, 181. + fishes of, 185-6. + flora of, 187. + flow of water from, 190. + flowers of, 190. + forests of, 187, 188. + fossil forests of, 177-180, 263. + friends of, 281. + funds for, 128. + game in, 134, 181-4, 207. + geographical names in, 108, 285-6. + geology of, 156. + Glacial Epoch in, 158. + healthfulness of, 199. + hostility to, vi, 267, 269. + hotel system of, 204. + hot springs of, 172-5. + Indian knowledge of. See "_Indian_." + lakes of the, 151. + laws for, 127. + leases in, 141, 207. + mineral springs of, 199. + mountain systems of, 151-2. + nature of country in, 16, 17. + Nez Percé incursion into, 117, 123, 215. + petrifactions in, 56, 179. + plateaus of, 153. + private interests and, 280. + Protective Act, 110, 141. + public business in, 139. + railroads and. See _Railroads_. + rhyolitic rocks in, 157. + road system of, 201. + rules and regulations for, 354. + scenery of, 155, 197, 209, 260. + schemes to destroy, 268. + season for tour of, 210. + seasons of, 199. + snow in, 193. + snow-shoe traveling in, 194-6. + source of great rivers near, 188. + stage rides through the, 277. + Superintendents of, 206-7, 359. + Tertiary Period in, 156. + thermal springs of, 161. + tour of, 210, _et seq._ + tourist transportation in, 204. + trees of, 187. + valleys of, 153. + vandalism in, 207. + visitors to, in 1883, 107. + volcanic rocks in, 157. + water falls of, 324. + winter in, 193, 197, 198. + winter journeys through, 108. + Yellowstone Park Association, 140. + Yellowstone Park Improvement Company, 132, 139, 140. + Yellowstone River, 149, 250, 256. + bridge over, 203. + color of banks, 5, 6. + flow of, 150. + fords, 26, 249, 261. + Great Bend of, 6, 43. + junction of, with Gardiner, 211. + navigation of, 203. + source of, 2, 188. + Yosemite Wonderland, 90, 94, 97, 253. + Young Hopeful, 225. + Yount Peak, source of the Y. River, 2, 149. + + + _Zillah, The_, tourist boat on Y. Lake, 336. + + + + + * * * * * + + + +Transcriber's Notes + + + Small captioned text was not converted to ALL CAPS. + The images were moved so that they would not split paragraphs. + + + + + + + +End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of The Yellowstone National Park, by +Hiram Martin Chittenden + +*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 42112 *** |