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diff --git a/old/42090-8.txt b/old/42090-8.txt deleted file mode 100644 index 6274092..0000000 --- a/old/42090-8.txt +++ /dev/null @@ -1,12928 +0,0 @@ -Project Gutenberg's Early Western Travels 1748-1846, v. 27, by Various - -This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with -almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or -re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included -with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org - - -Title: Early Western Travels 1748-1846, v. 27 - -Author: Various - -Editor: Reuben Gold Thwaites - -Release Date: February 13, 2013 [EBook #42090] - -Language: English - -Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1 - -*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK EARLY WESTERN TRAVELS *** - - - - -Produced by Douglas L. Alley, III, Greg Bergquist and the -Online Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net -(This file was produced from images generously made -available by The Internet Archive/American Libraries.) - - - - - - - - - - Early Western Travels - - 1748-1846 - - - Volume XXVII - -[Illustration: A View of the Rocky Mountains] - - - - - Early Western Travels - - 1748-1846 - - A Series of Annotated Reprints of some of the best - and rarest contemporary volumes of travel, descriptive - of the Aborigines and Social and - Economic Conditions in the Middle - and Far West, during the Period - of Early American Settlement - - - Edited with Notes, Introductions, Index, etc., by - - Reuben Gold Thwaites, LL.D. - - Editor of "The Jesuit Relations and Allied Documents," "Original - Journals of the Lewis and Clark Expedition," "Hennepin's - New Discovery," etc. - - - Volume XXVII - - Part II of Flagg's The Far West, 1836-1837; and - De Smet's Letters and Sketches, 1841-1842 - - [Illustration] - - Cleveland, Ohio - The Arthur H. Clark Company - 1906 - - - - - COPYRIGHT 1906, BY - THE ARTHUR H. CLARK COMPANY - - ALL RIGHTS RESERVED - - - - - - - =The Lakeside Press= - - R. R. DONNELLEY & SONS COMPANY - CHICAGO - - - - - CONTENTS OF VOLUME XXVII - - - I - - THE FAR WEST; OR, A TOUR BEYOND THE MOUNTAINS. Embracing Outlines of - Western Life and Scenery; Sketches of the Prairies, Rivers, Ancient - Mounds, Early Settlements of the French, etc., etc. (Chapters - xxxiii-xli of Vol. II, completing the publication). _Edmund Flagg_ - - Author's Table of Contents 15 - - Text 19 - - II - - LETTERS AND SKETCHES: with a Narrative of a Year's Residence among - the Indian Tribes of the Rocky Mountains. _Pierre Jean de Smet, S. - J._ - - Author's Preface 129 - - Text: - BOOK I: Letters I-XII, February 4-December 30, 1841 133 - - BOOK II: Narrative of a Year's Residence - among the Indian Tribes of the Rocky - Mountains (comprised in Letters XIII-XVI, - August 15-November 1, 1842) 321 - - Explanation of the Indian Symbolical Catechism 405 - - - - - ILLUSTRATIONS TO VOLUME XXVII - - - "A View of the Rocky Mountains." From De Smet's _Letters - and Sketches_ _Frontispiece_ - - Allegorical sketch 126 - - Facsimile of title-page, De Smet's _Letters and Sketches_ 127 - - "Worship in the Desert" 139 - - "Kanza Village" 195 - - "Interior of a Kanza Lodge" 203 - - "Chimney" 217 - - "Devil's Gate" 239 - - "Soda Springs" 245 - - "Fording the River Platte" 271 - - "Sheyenne Warriors" 275 - - "Indian Mode of Travelling" 325 - - "Apparition" 345 - - "Indian Symbolical Catechism"--folding plate 403 - - - - - PART II OF FLAGG'S THE FAR WEST, 1836-1837 - - Reprint of chapters xxxiii-xli of Volume II of original edition: - New York, 1838 - - - - - CONTENTS - - - XXXIII - - Blackness of Darkness--Fall of a Forest-tree--A sublime - Incident--Musings--A Moral--A Wolf--A Meal--A Mistake--A broiling - Sun--The "Heights of Chester"--A noble View--An Island--A - "Bend"--A Steamer--Chester--Site and Anticipations--A romantic - Pathway--The Sycamores--The Undergrowth--The Bluffs--Forest - Quietude--The wild-grape Vines--Size, Tortuosity, and Tenacity--A - Juliet-bower--A Prediction--Kaskaskia Bottom--An elegant Farm and - Mansion--The Outhouses--The Harvest-fields and Grounds--The - Bluffs--The Village 19 - - - XXXIV - - Antiqueness--A Proposition and Corollary--"All is New"--Freshness of - Natural Scenery--The immigrant Inhabitants--An Exception--A serious - Duty--A laudable Resolution--A gay Bevy--A Hawser-ferry--A Scene on - the Kaskaskia--"Old Kaskaskia"--Structure of Dwellings--Aspect of - Antiquity--A Contrast--"City of the Pilgrims"--The Scenes of a - Century--Lane-like Streets--Old Customs--"The Parallel ceases"--The - same Fact with the Spaniards--The Cause--The French Villagers--The - Inn-gallery--A civil Landlord--The _Table d'Hôte_--A Moonlight - Ramble--The old Church--The Courthouse--The fresh Laugh--The - Piano--The Brunettes 26 - - - XXXV - - The Explorers of the West--The French Jesuits--Cause of the - Undertaking--The Tale of the Hunters--Marquette and Joliet - [viii]--Their Exploration--The Natives--The Illini--A - Village--_Manito_ of the Missouri--The Illinois--Amazed - Delight--Joliet's Narrative--Marquette--Name to the - River--Joliet's Reward--Lapse of Years--M. Robert, Cavalier de la - Salle--His Talent, Ambition, and Enterprise--Visit to - Canada--Success at Paris--Tonti and Hennepin--Exploration--The - Illinois--An Indian Village--The Hoard of Corn--Peoria - Lake--Treatment by the Natives--Loss of the Supply-boat--Fort - "_Creve Cœur_"--Its Site--"Spring Bay"--The Indian War--Danger of - La Salle--The Mutiny--The Poison--Exploration of the - Mississippi--The Falls--Captivity--Hennepin's Travels--Character - of these early Writers--"Fort St. Louis"--Second Expedition of La - Salle--The _Osage_--A Village of Natives--The _Oubachi_--Fort - _Prudhomme_--Formal Possession--_Louisiana_--Ceremonies at the - Gulf--River "St. Louis"--Villages founded--Fate of La - Salle--Retributive Justice--Fate of Marquette--Decease and - Burial--Canadian Colonies--Their Design--Mining Expeditions--M. de - Seur--Disappointment--_Couriers du bois_--_Petits Paysans_--Merry - Mortals--Origin of Kaskaskia--Name--Depôt of Fur-trade--De Soto - and the Tradition--His Death and Burial--Original Extent of - Kaskaskia--The "Common Field"--The Grant--Policy of French and - Spanish Governments--"Common Fields" and - "Commons"--Regulations--Congress-grants--Harmony with the - Savages--The Cause--Exaggeration--Early Peace and - Prosperity--Jesuit College--Law's Scheme--The Design--_Les - Illinois_--The Failure--The "South Sea Bubble"--Prosperity of - Kaskaskia--Luxuriance of Agriculture--A chimerical Design--Cession - and Recession--An unwelcome Change--Removal and the Causes 34 - - - XXXVI - - Portraiture of Character--The Difficulty--The French Villager of - the Mississippi--His ordinary Deportment--Hospitality--Laws and - Courts--Scholastic Proficiency--Affairs of the Nation--"A - Burden!"--Their Virtues--The Helpmate--Religious - Faith--Festivals--Their Property--The Change--Their - Avocations--Their Idiom--A Contrast--The - Peculiarities--Costume--Amusements--Slaves--Early Government--An - unwelcome Change--"Improvement!"--A hateful [ix] Term--The - Steam-engine--The old Edifices--The Streets--Advantages of the - Change--The Contrast--The poorer Class--Evils of the - Change--Superior Enterprise 52 - - - XXXVII - - Delay on an interesting Subject--Peculiarities of French and - Spanish Villages similar--Social Intercourse--Old Legends--Dreamy - Seclusion--Commercial Advantages of Kaskaskia--The Trade--The - River--The Land-office--Population--Fort Gage--Clarke's - Expedition--The Catholic Church--Erection--Its Exterior--The - Interior--The Altar-lamp--Structure of the Roof--Surprise of the - Villagers--Interdict on the Architect--The Belfry--The Bell--View - from the Tower--The Churchyard--The first Record--Old - Chronicles--The Nunnery--The Seminary--Departure from - Kaskaskia--Farms of the French--A Reminiscence--"Indian Old - Point"--Extermination of the Norridgewocks--Details--The Obelisk - to Father Rasle--Route to _Prairie du - Rocher_--_Aubuchon_--Profusion of wild Fruit--Nuts--Grapes--A Wine - Story--Mode of Manufacture--The Cliffs of _Prairie du - Rocher_--"Common Field"--Productions--The _Bayou_--A Scene of - Blood--A Century Slumber--Peculiarities--View from the - Cliffs--Petrifactions--Simplicity and Ignorance--Characteristics - of the French Villager--The Catholic Church--Unhealthy Site--Cause - of a Phenomenon 59 - - - XXXVIII - - The Western Valley--Early Conception of its Extent inadequate--The - French _Cordon_ of Fortification--Origin of the Policy--Stations - of Posts erected--Fort Chartres--Groves of wild Fruit--The - Dark-browed Villager--His direction to the Ruins--Desertion and - Dreariness of the Spot--Solemn Effect of the old Pile in the - Forest--_Coup d'œil_--The Mississippi _Slough_--Erection of Fort - Chartres--The Design--Expense--Material--Rebuilding--Village - Cession, Recession, and the Results--Seat of Power--Form and - Extent--Preservation of the Masonry--French Engineering--Original - Structure of the Fortress--The Pride of its Prime--Its Scenes--The - "Golden Age"--The "old Residenters"--The Pomp of War--A Shelter - for the Night 73 - - - [x] XXXIX - - Fort Chartres--A romantic Scene--Legendary Lore--Erection of Fort - Chartres--Enormous Expenditure--Needless Strength--The - Engineer--His Fate--The "Buried Treasure"--The - Money-diggers--Their Success--The "Western Hannibal"--Expedition - against Vincennes--Capture of the French Villages--Siege of Fort - Chartres--A successful _Ruse du Guerre_--A Scrap of History--The - Capture of Fort Vincent--The Stratagem--Fort Du Quesne--Erection - and History--Useless Strength--A Morning Scene--Philippe Francis - Renault--His Mining Operations--The Village St. Philippe--The - Cottonwood Forest--The Mississippi!--A Mistake--A weary Plod--An - Atmosphere of Pestilence--Causes of Disease--Salubrious Site for a - Cabin--Precautions for the Emigrant--Diseases of the - West--Fevers--Sickly Months--"Milk Sickness"--Its Cause and - Effects--Fever and Ague--An Escape--A sick Family--The - Consumptive--Refreshment--An early Settler 85 - - - XL - - The "Squatter"--His Character and Person--A View from the - Bluffs--The ancient Indian Village--Reliques--The Squatter's - Reflections--His Wanderings--A Discovery--The Grave of a - Chief--The Ancient Burial-grounds--Human Remains--A Coffin of - Stone--The "Pigmy Race"--An Investigation--Ancient Pottery--The - _Turtle_--The _Sink-holes_--Waterloo--Its Windmill and - Courthouse--Bellefontaine--An evening Ride--"Hail Columbia!"--An - _immortal_ Name--A very poor Pun--A miserable Night--A pleasant - Dawn--The American Bottom--Its - Name--Extent--Boundaries--Bluffs--Lakes, their Cause and - Consequence--Disease an Obstacle to Settlement--The Remedy--The - _Grand Marais_--The Soil--Its Fertility--The appropriate - Production 97 - - - XLI - - The American Bottom--Its alluvial Character--An interesting - Query--The Ancient Lake--The Southern Limit--The Parapet of - Stone--Alluvial Action on the Cliffs--A similar Expansion--The - Eastern Limit and the Western--The "Mamelle [xi] - Prairie"--Elevation of Country North--Cause of the Draining--The - Rocks at "Grand Tower"--Abrasion of Waters--Volcanic Action--A - Tide-spring--The "Blockhouse"--Geology of the Region--Volcanic - Convulsions--Impress of Omnipotence--Reflections - suggested--Ignorance and Indifference on the Subject--Remarks of - Dr. Buckland and Cuvier--A very _ancient_ Revolution--Huge - Remains--Theory of Cuvier--Productions of the American Bottom--The - Farms--Prairie-flowers--Mounds--_Prairie du Pont_--Refreshment--A - novel Churn--A disagreeable Village--_Cahokia_--The Indian - Tribe--The Settlement--The Mississippi--The Creek--Harmonious - Intercourse--A Contrast--Early Inhabitants of - Cahokia--Peculiarities of the Village--The "Common Field"--Grant - of Congress--Cahokia at the present Time--Route to St. - Louis--Sunset on the Water--View of the City--Moonlight--Arrival - at St. Louis--A Farewell! 108 - - - - - THE FAR WEST - - [PART II] - - - - - XXXIII[1] - - "Stranger, if thou hast learn'd a truth which needs - Experience more than reason, that the world - Is full of guilt and misery, and hast known - Enough of all its sorrows, crimes, and cares - To tire thee of it; enter this wild wood, - And view the haunts of Nature." - BRYANT. - - -The moon had gone down; the last star had burned out in the firmament; -and that deep darkness which precedes the dawn was brooding over the -earth as the traveller turned away from the little inn at the village -of Pinkneyville. Fortunately he had, the previous evening, while -surveying the face of the region from the door of the hostelrie, -gained some general idea of the route to [CXXVII] Kaskaskia; and now, -dropping the reins upon his horse's neck, he began floundering along -through a blackness of darkness perfectly Cimmerian. It was, indeed, a -gloomy night. The early mists were rising, damp and chill, from the -soil saturated with the showers of the preceding day; and the darkness -had become of a density almost palpable to the sense. Crossing a -narrow arm of the prairie in the direction presumed to be correct, my -horse carried me into a dense wood, and, if possible, the darkness -increased. I had penetrated some miles into the heart of the forest, -and was advancing slowly upon my way, when my attention was suddenly -arrested by a low, whispering, rustling sound in the depths of the -wood at my right; this gradually increasing, was almost immediately -succeeded by a crashing, thundering, rushing report, till every echo -far and wide in that dark old wood was wakened, and the whole forest -for miles around resounded with the roar. My horse, terrified at the -noise, leaped and plunged like a mad creature. An enormous forest-tree -had fallen within a dozen rods of the spot on which I stood. As I left -the noble ruin and resumed my lonely way, my mind brooded over the -event, and I thought I could perceive in the occurrence a powerful -feature of the sublime. The fall of an aged tree in the noiseless -lapse of time is ever an event not unworthy of notice; but, at a -moment like this, it was surely so in an eminent degree. Ages -since--long ere the first white man had pressed the soil of this -Western world, and while the untamed denizens of the wilderness -[CXXVIII] roamed in the freedom of primitive creation--ages since had -seen the germe of that mighty tree lifting up its young, green leaf -from the sod, beneath the genial warmth of the sunlight and the summer -wind. An age passed away. The tender stem had reared itself into a -gigantic pillar, and proudly tossed its green head amid the upper -skies: that young leaf, expanded and developed, had spread itself -abroad, until, at length, the beasts of the earth had sought out its -shade, and the tree stood up the monarch of the forest. Another age is -gone, and the hoary moss of time is flaunting to the winds from its -venerable branches. Long ago the thunderbolt had consecrated its lofty -top with the baptismal of fire, and, sere and rifted, the storm-cloud -now sings through its naked limbs. Like an aged man, its head is -bleached with years, while the strength and verdure of ripened -maturity yet girdle its trunk. But the worm is at the root: rottenness -at the heart is doing its work. Its day and its hour are appointed, -and their bounds it may not pass. That hour, that moment is come! and -in the deep, pulseless stillness of the night-time, when slumber -falleth upon man and Nature pauses in her working, the offspring of -centuries is laid low, and bows himself along the earth. Yet another -age is gone; but the traveller comes not to muse over the relics of -the once-glorious ruin. Long ago has each been mouldering away, and -their dust has mingled with the common mother of us all. Ah! there is -a _moral_ in the falling of an aged tree! - -[CXXIX] I was dwelling with rather melancholy reflections upon this -casual occurrence, when a quick panting close at my side attracted my -attention; a large, gaunt-looking prairie-wolf had just turned on his -_heel_ and was trotting off into the shade. The gray dawn had now -begun to flicker along the sky, and, crossing a beautiful prairie and -grove, I found myself at the pleasant farmhouse of a settler of some -twenty or thirty years' standing; and dismounting, after a ride of -eighteen miles, I partook, with little reluctance or ceremony, of an -early breakfast. Thus much for the _night adventures of a traveller_ -in the woods and wilds of Illinois! My host, the old gentleman to whom -I have referred, very sagely mistook his guest for a physician, owing -to a peculiarly convenient structure of those indispensables ycleped -saddle-bags; and was just about consulting his fancied man of -medicines respecting the ailings of his "woman," who was reclining on -a bed, when, to his admiration, he was undeceived. - -Passing through an inconsiderable village on the north side of the -Little Vermillion called Georgetown, my route lay through an extended -range of hills and _barrens_.[2] Among the former were some most -intolerably tedious, especially to a horseman beneath a broiling sun, -who had passed a sleepless night: but the sweep of scenery from their -summits was beautiful and extensive. At length the traveller stood -upon the "heights of Chester," and the broad Mississippi was rolling -on its turbid floods a hundred yards beneath. The view is here a noble -[CXXX] one, not unlike that from the Alton or Grafton bluffs at the -other extremity of the "American Bottom," though less extensive. -Directly at the feet of the spectator, scattered along a low, narrow -interval, lies the village of Chester. Upon the opposite bank the -forest rolls away to the horizon in unbroken magnificence, excepting -that here and there along the bottom the hand of cultivation is -betrayed by the dark luxuriance of waving maize-fields. A beautiful -island, with lofty trees and green smiling meadows, stretches itself -along in the middle of the stream before the town, adding not a little -to the picturesqueness of the scene, and, in all probability, destined -to add something more to the future importance of the place. To the -right, at a short distance, come in the soft-flowing waters of the -Kaskaskia through deeply-wooded banks; and nearly in the same -direction winds away the mirror-surface of the Mississippi for twenty -miles, to accomplish a direct passage of but four, an occurrence by -no means unusual in its course. As I stood gazing upon the scene, a -steamer appeared sweeping around the bend, and, puffing lazily along -with the current past the town, soon disappeared in the distance. From -the heights an exceedingly precipitous pathway leads down to the -village. Chester is one of the new places of Illinois, and, of course, -can boast but little to interest the stranger apart from the highly -scenic beauty of its situation.[3] It has been mostly erected within -the few years past; and, for its extent, is a flourishing business -place. Its landing is excellent, location healthy, [CXXXI] adjacent -region fertile, and, for aught I know to the contrary, may, in course -of years, rival even the far-famed Alton. Its landing, I was informed, -is the only one for many miles upon the river, above or below, -suitable for a place of extensive commerce. - -From Chester, in a direction not far from north, a narrow pathway winds -along beneath the bluffs, among the tall cane-brakes of the bottom. -Leaving the Mississippi at the mouth of the Kaskaskia, it runs along the -low banks of the latter stream, and begins to assume an aspect truly -delightful. Upon either side rise the shafts of enormous sycamores to -the altitude of an hundred feet, and then, flinging abroad and -interlacing their long branches, form a living arch of exquisite beauty, -stretching away in unbroken luxuriance for miles. Beneath springs from -the rich loam a dense undergrowth of canes; a profusion of wild vines -and bushes clustering with fruit serving effectually to exclude the -sunbeams, except a few checkered spots here and there playing upon the -foliage, while at intervals through the dark verdure is caught the -flashing sheen of the moving waters. Upon the right, at the distance of -only a few yards, go up the bluffs to the sheer height of some hundred -feet, densely clothed with woods. The path, though exceedingly narrow -and serpentine, is for the most part a hard-trodden, smooth, and -excellent one when dry. The coolness and fragrance of these deep, old, -shadowy woodlands has always for me a resistless charm. There is so much -of quiet seclusion from the feverish turmoil of ordinary life within -[CXXXII] their peaceful avenues, that, to one not wedded to the world, -they are ever inexpressibly grateful. - - "The calm shade - Shall bring a kindred calm, and the sweet breeze, - That makes the green leaves dance, shall waft a balm - To thy sick heart. Thou wilt find nothing here - Of all that pain'd thee in the haunts of men, - And made thee loathe thy life." - -In the wild, fierce glaring of a summer noontide, when amid "the -haunts of men" all is parched up, and dusty, and scathed, how -refreshingly cool are the still depths of the forest! The clear -crystal streamlet gushes forth with perennial laughter from the rock, -seeming to exult in its happy existence; the bright enamelled mosses -of a century creep along the gnarled old roots, and life in all its -fairy forms trips forth to greet the eremite heart and charm it from -the world. But there was one feature of the scene through which I was -passing that struck me as peculiarly imposing, and to which I have not -yet referred. I allude to the enormous, almost preternatural magnitude -of the wild-grape vine, and its tortuosity. I have more than once, in -the course of my wanderings, remarked the peculiarities of these vast -parasites; but such is the unrivalled fertility, and the depth of soil -of the Kaskaskia bottom, that vegetation of every kind there attains a -size and proportion elsewhere almost unknown. Six or seven of these -vast vegetable serpents are usually beheld leaping forth with a broad -whirl from the mould at the root of a tree, and then, writhing, and -twining, and twisting [CXXXIII] among themselves into all imaginable -forms, at length away they start, all at once and together, in -different directions for the summit, around which they immediately -clasp their bodies, one over the other, and swing depending in -festoons on every side. Some of these vines, when old and dried up by -the elements, are amazingly strong; more so, perhaps, than a hempen -hawser of the same diameter. - -Having but a short ride before me the evening I left Chester, I -alighted from my horse, and leisurely strolled along through this -beautiful bower I have been attempting to describe. What a charming -spot, thought I, for a Romeo and Juliet!--pardon my roving fancy, -sober reader--but really, with all my own sobriety, I could not but -imagine this a delightful scene for a "Meet me by moonlight alone," or -any other _improper_ thing of the kind, whether or not a trip to -Gretna Green subsequently ensued. And if, in coming years, when the -little city of Chester shall have become all that it now seems to -promise, and the venerable Kaskaskia, having cast her slough, having -rejuvenated her withered energies, and recalled the days of her -pristine _traditionary_ glory; if then, I say, the young men and -maidens make not this the consecrated spot of the long summer-evening -ramble and the trysting-place of the heart, reader, believe us not; in -the dignified _parlance_ of the _corps editorial_, believe _us_ not. - -Some portions of the Kaskaskia bottom have formerly, at different -times, been cleared and cultivated; but nothing now remains but the -ruins of [CXXXIV] tenements to acquaint one with the circumstance. The -spot must have been exceedingly unhealthy in its wild state. There is, -however, one beautiful and extensive farm under high cultivation -nearly opposite Kaskaskia, which no traveller can fail to observe and -admire. It is the residence of Colonel M----, a French gentleman of -wealth, who has done everything a cultivated taste could dictate to -render it a delightful spot.[4] A fine, airy farmhouse stands beneath -the bluffs, built after the French style, with heavy roof, broad -balconies, and with a rare luxury in this region--green Venetian -blinds. The outhouses, most of them substantially constructed of -stone, are surpassed in beauty and extent only by the residence -itself. Fields yellow with golden harvest, orchards loaded with fruit, -and groves, and parks, and pastures sprinkled with grazing cattle, -spread out themselves on every side. In the back-ground rise the -wooded bluffs, gracefully rounded to their summits, while in front -roams the gentle Kaskaskia, beyond which, peacefully reposing in the -sunlight, lay the place of my destination. - -_Kaskaskia, Ill._ - -FOOTNOTES: - -[1] Volume xxvii of our series begins with chapter xxxiii of the -original New York edition (1838) of Flagg's _The Far West_. The author -is here describing the part of his journey made in the late summer or -early autumn of 1836.--ED. - -[2] The Vermilion River (which Flagg incorrectly wrote Little -Vermilion) rises, with several branches, in the western and southern -portions of La Salle County, and flows north and west, entering -Illinois River at Rock Island, in Livingston County. - -Steelesville (formerly Georgetown) is about fifteen miles east of -Kaskaskia, on the road between Pinkneyville and Chester; the site was -settled on by George Steele in 1810. A block-house fort erected there -in 1812 protected the settlers against attacks from the Kickapoo -Indians. In 1825 a tread-mill was built, and two years later a store -and post-office were erected. The latter was named Steele's Mills. The -settlement was originally called Georgetown and later changed by an -act of state legislature to Steelesville, being surveyed in 1832.--ED. - -[3] Chester is on the Mississippi River, in Randolph County, just -below the mouth of Kaskaskia River. In the summer of 1829, Samuel -Smith built the first house there, and two years later he, together -with Mather, Lamb and Company, platted the town site. It was named by -Jane Smith from her native town, Chester, England, and was made the -seat of justice for Randolph in 1848.--ED. - -[4] Flagg is probably referring to Colonel Pierre Menard. See our -volume xxvi, p. 165, note 116.--ED. - - - - - XXXIV - - "Protected by the divinity they adored, supported by the earth - which they cultivated, and at peace with themselves, they enjoyed - the sweets of life without dreading or desiring - dissolution."--NUMA POMPILIUS. - - "A pleasing land of drowsy head it was, - Of dreams that wave before the half-shut eye." - _Castle of Indolence._ - - -In a country like our own, where everything is fresh and recent, and -where nothing has yet been swept by the mellowing touch of departed -time, any object which can lay but the most indifferent claim to -antiquity fails not to be hailed with delighted attention. "You have," -say they of the other hemisphere, "no ivy-mantled towers; no -moss-grown, castellated ruins; no donjon-keeps rearing in dark sublimity -their massive walls and age-bleached battlements; nothing to span the -mighty chasm of bygone years, and to lead down the fancy into the -shadowy realms of the past; and, _therefore_, your country is steril in -moral interest." Now, though this _corollary_ is undoubtedly false, I -yet believe the proposition in the main to be _true_: especially is this -the case with regard to that region which lies west of the Alleghany -range. Little as there may be in the elder sections of our Atlantic -states to demand veneration for the past, no sooner does the traveller -find himself gliding along the silvery wave [CXXXVI] of the "beautiful -river," than at the same moment he finds himself forsaking all that the -fairy creations of genius have ever consecrated, or the roll of the -historian chronicled for coming time. All is NEW. The very soil on which -he treads, fertile beyond comparison, and festering beneath the -undisturbed vegetation of centuries; the rolling forests, bright, -luxuriant, gorgeous as on the dawn of creation; the endless streams -pouring onward in their fresh magnificence to the ocean, all seem new. -The inhabitants are emigrants late from other lands, and every operation -of human skill on which the eye may rest betrays a recent origin. There -is but a single exception to these remarks--those mysterious monuments -of a race whom we know not of! - -In consideration, therefore, of the circumstance that antiquities in -this blessed land of ours are, indeed, very few and far between, I deem -it the serious duty of every traveller, be he virtuoso or be he not, -whenever once so happy as to lay his grasp upon an antique "in any form, -in any shape," just to hold fast to the best of his ability! Such, -reader, be it known, was my own praiseworthy determination when drawing -nigh to the eastern shore of the stream opposite the ancient French -village Kaskaskia. The sun was going down, and as I approached the sandy -edge of the sea-green water, a gay bevy of young folks were whirling the -long, narrow, skiff-like ferry-boat like a bird across the stream, by -means of a hawser to which it was attached, and which extended from -shore to shore. In my own turn I stepped into the boat, and in a few -moments the old French [CXXXVII] negro had forced it half across the -river, at this spot about three or four hundred yards in width. For one -who has ever visited Kaskaskia in the last beautiful days of summer, a -pen like my own need hardly be employed to delineate the loveliness of -the scene which now opened upon the view. For miles the gleamy surface -of the gentle Kaskaskia might be seen retreating from the eye, till lost -at length in its windings through the forests of its banks, resting -their deep shadows on the stream in all the calm magnificence of -inanimate nature. The shore I was leaving swelled gracefully up from the -water's edge, clothed in forests until it reached the bluffs, which -towered abrupt and loftily; while here and there along the landscape the -low roof of a log cabin could be caught peeping forth from the dark -shrubbery. The bank of the stream I was approaching presented an aspect -entirely the reverse; less lovely, but more picturesque. A low sandy -beach stretched itself more than a mile along the river, destitute of -trees, and rounding itself gently away into a broad green plain. Upon -this plain--a portion of the American Bottom--at the distance of a few -hundred yards from the water, is situated all that now remains of "old -Kaskaskia." From the centre rises a tall Gothic spire, hoary with time, -surmounted by an iron cross; and around this nucleus are clustered -irregularly, at various intervals, the heavy-roofed, time-stained -cottages of the French inhabitants. These houses are usually like those -of the West India planters--but a single story in height--and the -surface which they occupy is, [CXXXVIII] of course, in the larger class, -proportionably increased. They are constructed, some of rough limestone, -some of timber, framed in every variety of position--horizontal, -perpendicular, oblique, or all united--thus retaining their shape till -they rot to the ground, with the interstices stuffed with the fragments -of stone, and the external surface stuccoed with mortar; others--a few -only--are framed, boarded, etc., in modern style. Nearly all have -galleries in front, some of them spacious, running around the whole -building, and all have garden-plats enclosed by stone walls or -stoccades. Some of these curious-looking structures are old, having -bided the storm-winds of more than a century. It is this circumstance -which throws over the place that antiquated, venerable aspect to which I -have alluded, and which equally applies to all the other villages of -this peculiar people I have yet spoken of. The city of Philadelphia and -this neglected village of Kaskaskia are, as regards age, the same to a -year;[5] but while every object which, in the one, meets the eye, looks -fresh as if but yesterday touched by the last chiselling of the -architect, in the latter the thoughts are carried back at least to -Noah's ark! Two centuries have rolled by since the "city of the -Pilgrims" ceased to be a "cornfield;" but where will you now look for a -solitary relic of that olden time? "State-street," the scene where -American blood was first poured out by British soldiery; "Old -Cornhill;" the site of the "Liberty-tree;" and the wharf from which the -tea was poured into the dock, are indeed pointed out to you as spots -memorable [CXXXIX] in the history of the "Leaguer of Boston;" and yonder -frowns the proud height of Bunker's Hill; _there_ lay the British -battle-ships, and _there_ was "burning Charlestown:" but, with almost -the solitary exception of the "Old South" Church, with the cannon-ball -imbedded in its tower, where shall we look for an _object_ around which -our associations may cluster? This is not the case with these old -villages. A century has looked down upon the same objects, in the same -situations and under the same relations, with a change scarcely -appreciable. Yon aged church-tower has thrown its venerable shadow alike -over the Indian _corn-dance_, the rude _cotillon_ of the French -villager, the Spanish _fandango_, the Virginia _reel_, and the Yankee -_frolic_. Thus, then, when I speak of these places with reference to -antiquity, I refer not so much to the actual lapse of years as to the -present aspect and age of the individual objects. In this view there are -few spots in our country which may lay more undisputed claim to -antiquity than these early French settlements in the Western Valley. - -There is one feature of these little villages to which I have not at -this time alluded, but which is equally amusing and characteristic, -and which never fails to arrest the stranger's observation. I refer to -the narrowness of those avenues _intended_ for streets. It is no very -strange thing that in aged Paris structure should be piled upon -structure on either side even to the clouds, while hardly a footpath -exists between; but that in this vast Western world a custom, in all -respects the same, should have prevailed, [CXL] surpasseth -understanding. This must have resulted not surely from lack of -_elbow-room_, but from the marvellous sociality of the race, or from -that attachment to the customs of their own fatherland which the -Frenchman ever betrays. In agriculture and the mechanic arts they are -now about as well skilled, notwithstanding the improvements which they -must perceive have been going on around them, as on the day their -fathers first planted foot on this broad land. The same implements of -husbandry and the arts which a century since were seen in France, are -now seen here; the very vehicle they drive is the vineyard-car, which -is presented us in representations of rustic life in the older -provinces of the same land. The same characteristics of feeling and -action are here displayed as there, and the Gallic tongue is sacredly -transmitted from father to son. But here the parallel ceases. We can -trace but little resemblance between the staid, simple-hearted French -villager of the Mississippi Valley, and the gay, frivolous, dissolute -cotemporary of the fifteenth Louis; still less to the countryman of a -Marat or a Robespierre, rocked upon the bloody billow of the "Reign of -Terror;" and less than either to the high-minded, polished Frenchman -of the nineteenth century. The same fact has been remarked of the -Spanish population of Florida and Mexico; their resemblance to their -ancestors, who have been slumbering for more than three centuries in -their graves, is far more striking than to their present brethren of -"Old Castile." The cause of this is not difficult to detect. The -customs, the [CXLI] manners, the very idioms of nations never remain -for any considerable period of time invariably the same: other men, -other times, other circumstances, when assisted by civil or religious -revolutions, produce surprising changes in the parent land, while the -scanty colony, separated by mountains and seas, not more from the roar -and commotion than from the influenced sphere of these events, -slumbers quietly on from century to century, handing down from father -to son those peculiarities, unaltered, which migrated with them. -Climate, soil, location, though far from exclusive, are by no means -inconsiderable agents in affecting character in all its relations of -intellect, temperament, and physical feature. And thus has it chanced -that we now look upon a race of men separated but a few centuries from -the parent stock, yet exhibiting characteristics in which there are -few traits common to both. - -It was through one of those long, narrow, lane-like streets to which I -have alluded, and, withal, a most unconscionably filthy one, that I -rode from the landing of the ferry to the inn. The low-roofed, -broad-galleried cottages on either side seemed well stocked with a -race of dark-eyed, dark-haired, swarthy-looking people, all, from the -least unto the tallest, luxuriating in the mellow atmosphere of -evening; all, as if by the same right, staring most unceremoniously at -the stranger; and all apparently summing up, but in the uncouthest -style imaginable, their divers surmises respecting his country, -lineage, occupation, etc., etc. The forms and features of these French -villagers are perfectly unique, at least in our [CXLII] country, and -one can hardly fail distinguishing them at first sight, even among a -crowd, once having seen them. Their peculiarities are far more -striking than those of our German or Irish population. A few -well-dressed, _genteel_ gentlemen were lounging about the piazza of -the inn as I drew nigh, and a polite landlord, courteously pressing -forward, held the stirrup of the traveller and requested him to -alight. Something of a contrast, this, to the attention a stranger -usually is blessed with from not more than nine tenths of the worthy -publicans of Illinois. Alas! for the aristocracy of the nineteenth -century! But _n'importe_. With the easy air of gentility and taste -which seemed to pervade the inn at Kaskaskia in all its departments, -few could have failed to be pleased. For myself, I was also -surprised. Everything about the establishment was in the French style, -and here was spread the handsomest _table d'hôte_ it has been my -fortune to witness in Illinois. - -The moon was pouring gloriously down in misty mellowness upon the -low-roofed tenements of this antiquated village, when, leaving my -chamber, I stepped from the inn for a leisure stroll through its streets -and lanes. Passing the gray old church,[6] bathed in the dim, melting -moonlight of a summer night, such as for more than a century had smiled -upon its consecrated walls as one year had chased away another, the next -considerable structure which arrested my attention was a huge, ungainly -edifice of brick, like Joseph's coat, _of many colours_, forsooth, and, -withal, sadly ruinous as regards the item of windows. This latter -circumstance, aside from [CXLIII] every other, agreeable to all observed -precedent, would have notified me of the fact that this was neither more -nor less than a western courthouse. Continuing my careless ramble among -the cottages, I passed several whose piazzas were thronged with young -people; and at intervals from the midst rang out, on the mild evening -air, the gay fresh laugh, and the sweet, soft tones of woman. A stately -structure of stone, buried in foliage, next stood beside me, and from -its open doors and windows issued the tumultuous melody of the piano. A -few steps, and the innocent merriment of two young girls hanging upon a -gentleman's arms struck my ear. They passed me. Both were young; and -one, a gazelle-eyed brunette, in the pale moonlight, was beautiful. The -blithe creatures were full of frolic and fun, and the light Gallic -tongue seemed strangely musical from those bright lips. But -enough--enough of my evening's ramble--nay, more than enough: I am -waxing sentimental. It was at a late hour, after encountering divers -untold adventures, that I found myself once more at my hotel. The -gallery was thronged with French gentlemen, and it was some hours before -the laugh and chatter had died away, and the old village was buried in -slumber. - -_Kaskaskia, Ill._ - -FOOTNOTES: - -[5] Philadelphia was founded in 1682. There has been much discussion -about the exact date of the founding of Kaskaskia. E. G. Mason was of -the opinion that this uncertainty had arisen in the confounding of -Kaskaskia with an earlier Indian settlement of the same name on the -Illinois River. It seems probable that Kaskaskia on the Mississippi -was started in 1699. Consult E. G. Mason, "Kaskaskia and its Parish -Records," in _Magazine of American History_ (New York, 1881), vi, pp. -161-182, and _Chapters from Illinois History_ (Chicago, 1901); also C. -W. Alvord, _The Old Kaskaskia Records_ (Chicago Historical Society, -1906). See also A. Michaux's _Travels_, in our volume iii, p. 69, note -132.--ED. - -[6] The church of the Immaculate Conception, the first permanent -structure of its kind west of the Alleghany Mountains, was built in -1720. It was torn down in 1838 and a large brick church built. For a -more detailed description of the former, see _post_, pp. 62-64.--ED. - - - - - XXXV - - "Glanced many a light caïque along the foam, - Danced on the shore the daughters of the land." - BYRON. - - "How changed the scene since merry Jean Baptiste - Paddled his pirouge on La Belle Rivière, - And from its banks some lone Loyola priest - Echoed the night song of the voyageur." - - -It is now more than a century and a half since the sturdy Canadian -voyageurs, treading in the footsteps of the adventurous Sieur la -Salle, forsaking the bleak shores and wintry skies of the St. -Lawrence, first planted themselves upon the beautiful hunting-grounds -of the peaceful Illini. Long before the Pilgrim Fathers of -New-England, or the distressed exiles of Jamestown, scattered along -the steril shores of the Atlantic, had formed even a conception of the -beautiful valley beyond the mountains--while this vast North American -continent was yet but a wilderness, and the nations of Christendom, -ignorant of its character or of its extent, knew not by whom of right -it should be appropriated--a few French Jesuit priests had ascended in -their bark canoes a distance of three thousand miles from the mouth of -the "endless river," and had explored its tributaries to their -fountains. It is with admiration almost bordering on astonishment -that we view the bold adventures of these daring men.[7] [CXLV] The -cause of their fearless undertaking was, we are told, to investigate -the truth of an idea which at that era was prevalent among the -Canadian French, that a western passage through the American continent -existed to the Pacific Ocean. The Indian hunters had spoken of a vast -stream far away to the west, which on their long excursions they had -seen, but of whose source, course, or termination they could tell -nothing. This river was supposed to disgorge itself into the Pacific -Seas; and, to prosecute the inquiry, Father Marquette, a recollet -monk, and Sieur Joliet, an Indian trader of Quebec, by authority of M. -Talon, Intendant of New France, a man of singular enterprise, entered -upon the expedition. Thridding the great chain of the Northern Lakes -in their slender skiffs, and pursuing the Ouisconsin River, on the -17th of June, 1673, the first Europeans descended the "Father of -Waters."[8] By the natives whom they met they were kindly received, -and entertained with a deference due only to superior beings. Among -these Indians, the Illini, then residing on both sides of the -Mississippi, were chief, and their nation was made up of seven -distinct tribes: the Miamies, Michigamies, Mascotins, Kaskaskias, -Kahokias, Peorias, and Taumarwaus, a peaceful, benevolent, unwarlike -race.[9] A village was found at the mouth of the Illinois. Descending -the Mississippi, the French voyageurs were dissuaded from their design -of exploring the Missouri by a tradition of the natives that near its -mouth dwelt a _Manito_, whose residence no human being could pass with -life: nor did the Indians fail to tell the legend of [CXLVI] the -_Piasa_ cliff above. Turning up the Illinois, therefore, they glided -with amazement through the green woodlands and over the silvery wave -of that beautiful stream. It is, perhaps, at this distant day, and in -the present era of "speculators and economists," hardly possible to -conceive the delighted emotions which must then have swelled the -bosoms of those simple-hearted men. Sieur Joliet, on his return to -Canada, published an account of his adventures, in which narrative -language seems almost too meager for description of the golden land he -had seen.[10] Father Marquette remained a missionary among the -peaceful Indians. To the river partially explored was given the name -of the celebrated Colbert, Minister of Marine, by Count de Frontenac; -and to the trader Joliet, as a reward, was granted the island of -Anticosti in the Gulf of St. Lawrence.[11] - -Years passed away, and no enterprising spirit rose up to prosecute the -discoveries already made. The missionary Marquette died among the -Indians two years after, and Joliet took possession of his island. At -length appears M. Robert, Cavalier de la Salle, a native of Rouen in -Normandy, celebrated as the birthplace of Fontenelle and the two -Corneilles, and for the martyrdom of the heroic Maid of Orleans more -than two centuries before. La Salle was a man of bold talents and -dauntless enterprise. Ambitious of fame and wealth, he emigrated to -Canada; listened to the wonderful tales of the _endless river_; -conceived the idea of a Northwest Passage to the East Indies; -communicated his views to the commandant of Fort Frontenac on Lake -Ontario, [CXLVII] and was advised to lay his plan before the Court of -St. Cloud. On his arrival at Paris, under the patronage of the Prince -de Conti, La Salle received letters of nobility and extensive grants -of land in America. Associating with himself the Chevalier de Tonti, -an Italian officer, who had the peculiarity of a copper hand as -substitute to one lost in the wars of Sicily, and Father Lewis -Hennepin, a Franciscan friar, as historian and missionary, together -with about thirty others, the enterprise was immediately entered upon, -under special sanction of Louis XIV., king of France. After a variety -of fortune, prosperous and adverse, they reached the Illinois, and -having descended that beautiful river some distance, discovered an -Indian village consisting of five hundred cabins completely deserted. -Here, having found a large quantity of corn concealed in the earth -under each of the wigwams, the party remained six days. Descending -ninety miles, they came to Peoria Lake, where they found two -encampments of the natives. At first hostility was manifested, but -soon they were on most amicable terms with the voyageurs, and a -feasting, and dancing, and rejoicing was kept up for three days. Not -long after this the boat containing supplies was lost upon "_Le Baie -des Puants_," or Green Bay; and La Salle was forced to erect a fort, -which received the appropriate name of "_Creve Cœur_"--broken heart. -The site of this fortification is supposed to have been a spot now -called "Spring Bay," not far from Peoria, on the Illinois. This is a -singular place. It is a broad sand basin, some hundred feet [CXLVIII] -in diameter, opening upon the river, the waters of which, in the -higher stages, fill it to the brim, but when low they retire, and a -number of large springs gush copiously forth from three sides of the -ridge, and form a stream. "Blue Creek" empties itself just below, -crossed by a bridge of earth, while yet farther down is seen a large -mound, which has been opened, and found to contain human remains -twenty feet from the summit.[12] - -At the time of the erection of Fort _Creve Cœur_ the Illini were at -war with the warlike Iroquois Indians; and the former, anticipating -assistance from their friends the French, and receiving none, resolved -to destroy La Salle. His boldness and eloquence alone saved him and -restored amity. No sooner was this disturbance quelled than a mutiny -arose among his own men. On Christmas-day his dinner was poisoned, and -powerful medicine alone saved his life. - -Preparations were now made to explore the Mississippi. Father -Hennepin, with four Frenchmen, two Indians, and M. Dacan, commander, -ascended the river to the falls, and named them, in honour of their -patron saint, _St. Anthony_. They were here taken prisoners by a party -of Sioux, carried one hundred and sixty miles into the interior to -their villages, and detained several months, when they regained their -liberty. Father Hennepin returned to Canada, and subsequently to -France, where he published his travels in splendid style, dedicating -the book to the celebrated Colbert. These early writings, though -deeply imbued with a spirit of superstition [CXLIX] and exaggeration, -are yet valuable as the _only_ records of the time.[13] The chief of -these historians were Hennepin, Tonti, and Charlevoix.[14] -Difficulties arising with the Indians, La Salle resolved to erect -another fort, which, after infinite difficulty, was completed. The -site is described as "a rock, very high, the top of which was even and -of convenient space, so that it commanded the river and country round -about." This description applies to no place on the Illinois so well -as to the "Starved Rock." The fort was called "St. Louis." - -La Salle visited Canada, and a crowd of adventurers returned with him. -Descending the Illinois and Mississippi, the company stopped for some -time at the mouth of the Missouri, then the _Osage_ River, and found a -village of the Taumarwaus, which was deserted, the natives being on a -hunting expedition. In three days they were at the _Oubachi_ or Ohio. At -the Chicasaw Bluffs a fort called _Prudhomme_ was erected, and formal -possession of the country first taken, and, in honour of the reigning -monarch, named _Louisiana_. Several other forts were erected, and one -of them, the ruins of which yet remain, is supposed to have stood -between St. Louis and Carondelet. Descending the river on the 7th of -April, 1683, La Salle reached the Gulf of Mexico, where a _Te Deum_ was -sung; a cross, with the arms of France, was suspended from the summit of -a lofty tree; and the river, which had occupied three months in its -exploration of about one thousand miles, was named "St. [CL] Louis." On -his return, the associates of La Salle founded the villages of Kaskaskia -and Cahokia on the American Bottom, while he hastened on to Canada and -thence to France, to obtain a colony for the country at the mouth of the -Mississippi. Losing his route on returning with this expedition, he -commenced a journey over land to Illinois; but, while on his way, was -treacherously assassinated by two of his followers.[15] It is a -remarkable fact in the history of retributive justice, that these men -soon after dealt death to each other; and two priests of the mutineers -became penitent, and confessed all the circumstances of the crime. The -burial spot of the noble La Salle is unknown to this day. Marquette, -"the apostle of the wilderness," died under circumstances of touching -interest on the lonely shores of Lake Michigan while upon his mission. -Charlevoix, the historian, throws an interest of melancholy romance over -the fate of this venerable man. According to this writer, Father Joseph -Marquette was a native of Laon, in Picardy, and of distinguished family. -About two years after his discovery of the Mississippi, while engaged in -his missionary labours among the savages, he was journeying from Chicago -to Michillimackinac, and on the 8th of May, 1675, entered the mouth of a -small river emptying into Lake Michigan upon its eastern side, which now -bears his name. Here he landed, erected an altar, and said mass. After -this ceremony he retired a short distance, and requested the two -voyageurs who conducted his canoe to leave him alone for half an hour, -while in private [CLI] he returned thanks. The period having expired, -they went to seek him, and found him dead in the attitude of -devotion:[16] the circumstance then recurred to them, that, on entering -the river, he had dropped an intimation that he should there end his -days. The distance was too great to Michillimackinac to convey there his -remains, and the voyageurs accordingly buried them near the bank of the -stream, which they called by his name. From that time the river, as if -from reverence for the missionary's relics, has continued to retire, and -his grave is yet pointed out to the traveller. Thus did the venerable -Marquette, at an advanced age, alone with his God, yield up his -blameless life to its giver, while engaged in his holy errand of peace -to the savage, and amid the magnificent solitudes of the land of his -discovery. - -Subsequent to these explorations, colonies from Lower Canada rapidly -settled the recent villages of Kaskaskia, Cahokia, and Peoria.[17] But -their designs seem not to have been those of the speculators of our own -day. Their sole anticipation was to amass opulence by mining in a -country then supposed incalculably rich in the precious metals, from its -resemblance to the silver region of South America; and we find exclusive -grants of extensive tracts bearing this date to Cruzat, Renault, and -other individuals.[18] In pursuit of this golden chimera, many -expeditions were fitted out at vast expense. In 1699 M. de Seur, an -enterprising traveller, with ninety men, descended the Mississippi to a -spot six hundred miles above the Illinois, and erected a fort [CLII] -upon the present site of Fort Armstrong for the purpose of exploring a -mine of _terre verte_, said to have been discovered in that beautiful -region.[19] It need hardly be said that all these adventurers were -disappointed: but the buoyant hilarity of the race did not forsake them, -and as boatmen, hunters, _couriers du bois_, Indian traders, and small -farmers,[20] they gained a comfortable subsistence, and merrily did they -enjoy it. Most of their lives were passed upon the broad prairies, and -in penetrating every section of this vast valley in their birch pirogues -wherever a stream presented to them its bosom; and yet with the violin, -the grape-juice, and a short pipe, they seemed the blithest mortals on -the face of the earth. It was by men such as these that the village of -Kaskaskia, in old French chronicles styled "_Notre dame de -Cascasquias_," originating in the name and residence of an Indian tribe, -first was settled; and in a few years it had become an extensive depôt -for the trade in furs. It was probably by the same Indian tribe which -originally possessed the site of Kaskaskia that a party of the -unfortunate expedition of Ferdinand de Soto, by whom Florida was -partially conquered, was almost destroyed about the year 1539. Indeed, -there was a tradition still extant upon the arrival of the French, of -their having exterminated the first _white faces_ they had ever seen. -For three years did the chivalrous De Soto, with his nine hundred -steel-clad warriors, scour the land in search of the reality of his -golden dreams: at length he died; he was an object of hatred and terror -to the Indians; and to conceal his death, or to [CLIII] preserve from -violation his remains, his followers enclosed them in a coffin -constructed from the section of a hollow tree, and sunk them beneath the -floods of the _eternal river_. His followers, reduced to only two -hundred and fifty, returned to Spain. And so the burial-places of the -first explorers of the Mississippi are unknown.[21] - -The extent of the territory of Kaskaskia was originally very great, -stretching from the Kaskaskia River to the Mississippi, a breadth of -about two miles, and comprising the area from the confluence of the -streams, seven miles below, to the present site of the place. The -tract below the town is incalculably fertile, abounding in the plum, -the persimmon, the cherry, the delicate _pecan_, the hickory, and the -hazel-nut; and for the most part was comprised in one vast "common -field," over which herds of wild horses, introduced by the emigrants, -long roamed in undisturbed possession. This _common_, consisting of -seven thousand acres, was granted "to Kaskaskia and inhabitants for -ever" by Vaudreuil, governor of the Province of Louisiana, as early as -1743.[22] In this arrangement we observe a striking feature in the -policy both of the French and Spanish governments, in their early -settlements on the Mississippi. The items of door-yards, gardens, -stable-yards, etc., and of settling colonies in the compact form of -towns and villages, as a protection from the savages and to promote -social intercourse, were all matters of special requisition and -enactment; while to each [CLIV] settlement was granted two tracts of -land for "_common fields_" and "_commons_." This distinction was not, -however, invariably observed. The former consisted of several hundred -acres, conveniently divided among the individual families, and the -whole enclosed by the labour of all the villagers in common. If the -enclosure opposite any plat was suffered to become ruinous, the right -to the common was forfeited by the offending individual. The seasons, -also, for ploughing, sowing, reaping, etc., were by public ordinance -simultaneous: yet with these restrictions, each individual, so long as -he complied with the necessary regulations, possessed his lot in -_franc allieu_--fee simple, subject to sale and transfer. The -"_common_" was a far more extended tract, embracing in some instances -several thousand acres without enclosure, and reserved for the purpose -of wood and pasturage. Here there was no grant of severalty, and no -individual portion could be appropriated without the special and -unanimous consent of the whole village. To the indigent who came to -settle among them, and to young married pairs, donations from this -tract were often made by the villagers, and, if conveniently situated, -might subsequently become a portion of the "_common field_."[23] That -such an arrangement, under all the circumstances of the period when -instituted, and with such a people as the early French settlers, was -the best that could have been made, no one can doubt. But how such a -regulation would suit a race of _enterprising_ Yankees, fidgeting -eternally for _improvements_, or a squad of long-sided Kentuckians, -grumbling about elbow-room, is problematical. - -[CLV] The proceedings of our national government towards these ancient -villages have been characterized by generosity, whatever may be said -of the conduct of individuals. In 1788, an extensive tract lying along -the Mississippi was by act of Congress granted to the French -inhabitants east of that river; and to those of Kaskaskia was secured -for a common field twenty thousand acres. It is under direction of the -trustees of the town by provision of the state legislature.[24] - -Unlike the policy of all other Europeans who have planted themselves -upon the Western continent, that of the French emigrants towards the -aborigines, with the single exception of the extermination of the -Natchez in the South, has invariably been conciliatory, peaceable, and -friendly.[25] This has been the effect rather of debasing themselves -than of elevating the natives. Surrounded by everything which could -fascinate the eye or delight the fancy, we find these inoffensive -foreigners, therefore, unlike the English settlers along the Atlantic -and in the elder Western states, at peace with all their savage -neighbours; unambitious, contented, and happy, increasing and -flourishing; and in a few years, they tell us, Kaskaskia, "the -terrestrial paradise," numbered a population of eight thousand -souls![26] Blessed with a soil of boundless fertility, and prolific in -all Nature's luxurious stores to a degree of which less-favoured climes -can form no conception: subsisting solely by culture of the little -homesteads around their own thresholds, by hunting [CLVI] the wild -denizens of their noble forests, or angling upon the calm bosom of their -beautiful stream: simple-hearted and peaceful, almost without the -_terms_ of law, gently ruled by the restraints of a religion they -venerated and a priesthood they loved: without commerce, the arts, or -the elegances of life; a thousand miles from a community of civilized -men; from year to year they went on, and from generation to generation -they flourished, until, in that of our own age and our own day, they are -found still treading in the steps in which their fathers trod! So long -as the peaceful French villager retained the beautiful land of his -adoption in undisputed possession, all was flourishing and prosperous. A -little more than half a century from its origin, Kaskaskia was capital -of Illinois; and on the visit of Charlevoix in 1721, a monastery and -Jesuit college was in successful operation, the ruins of the edifice -remaining extant even at the present day.[27] This institution was -successful in converting a number of the aborigines to its peculiar -tenets, and at one period _is said_ to have "embraced twenty-five -hundred catechumens!!" A most preposterous assertion, most assuredly. - -It was in the early part of this century that the scheme of that -celebrated projector, John Law, of Edinburgh, on the strength of which -he elevated himself to the dignity of Comptroller-general of the -Finance of France, was first set on foot with reference to the Valley -of the Mississippi. The design, so far as it is now known, was to -establish a bank, an East India, and a Mississippi Company, from -[CLVII] the anticipated enormous revenue of which was to be liquidated -the national debt of France.[28] The territory of Louisiana had -already acquired a reputation abroad for the boundlessness of the -wealth and fertility of its soil; and, to foster the delusion of Law's -scheme, descriptions of this beautiful region, tinted with all the -rainbow hues of romance, were scattered throughout Europe, until the -distant wilderness of _les Illinois_ became the paradise of the -slumberer's vision. "The Illinois" was the fairyland of fancy -realized. A few years, the vast fabric of fictitious credit crumbled, -almost annihilating the finance of France, and burying thousands of -families in its ruins. Law was exiled and retired to Venice, where in -poverty he soon died. It is a coincidence not a little remarkable, -that the same year, 1720, witnessed the same desperate game enacted by -the South Sea directors in England. But the attention of France was -now directed towards her remote colony in North America; and -notwithstanding the failure of Law's scheme, old Kaskaskia continued -to flourish beyond all compare. Other villages sprang into existence -around; a lucrative fur-trade was carried on by the Canadian -voyageurs, and agriculture became the peculiar province of the French -villager. The extent and luxuriance of the agriculture at this period -may be [CLVIII] gathered from the fact, that in the single year 1746, -eight hundred thousand weight of flour was sent to New Orleans from -these settlements.[29] At this period there was not a solitary village -west of the Mississippi, though the lead-mines then known and worked -were resorted to by traders.[30] Twenty years after the failure of -Law's scheme, the French government formed the design, almost as -chimerical, of securing her immense possessions in the Mississippi -Valley by a continuous line of military posts, connecting them with -Canada; and vast were the sums of money expended in the undertaking. - -A century, and the whole region was ceded to England, thence to our -own government in 1783, and now old Kaskaskia is but the wreck of its -former prosperity. It makes one almost sad to wander about among these -ruinous, deserted habitations, venerable with departed years, and -reflect that once they were thronged with population, the seat of -hospitality, and the home of kindly feeling. The quiet villagers have -been not a little annoyed by the steady and rapid influx of -immigration on every side of them, dissimilar in customs, language, -religion, and temperament, while the bustling enterprise has fretted -and displeased them. Long accustomed, also, to the arbitrary but -parental authority of their military commandants and priesthood, they -deemed the introduction of the common law among them exceedingly -burdensome, and the duties of a citizen of a republic, of which we are -so [CLIX] proud, intolerable drudgery. Many, therefore, of the wealthy -and respectable, on cession of their territory to our government, -removed to Louisiana, where civil law yet bears sway; others crossed -the river and established Ste. Genevieve and St. Louis;[31] while the -foreigners returning to the lands from which they had emigrated, few -but natives of the country remained behind. The ordinance of 1787,[32] -prohibiting involuntary servitude in the region then called the -Northwestern Territory, induced many who were desirous of preserving -their blacks to remove to the new villages west of the Mississippi, -then under Spanish rule. From these and a variety of similar causes, -this peaceful, kind-hearted people have within the last thirty years -been more than once disturbed in the dwellings of their fathers. - -_Kaskaskia, Ill._ - -FOOTNOTES: - -[7] Hall.--FLAGG. - -[8] Jacques Marquette was a Jesuit missionary, not a Recollect. -Consult R. G. Thwaites, _Father Marquette_ (New York, 1902). On -Jolliet see Francis Parkman, _La Salle_ (Boston, 1869); and the latest -authority, Ernest Gagnon, _Louis Jolliet_ (Quebec, 1902).--ED. - -[9] For a short note on the Illinois Indians, consult our volume xxvi, -p. 123, note 86.--ED. - -[10] Flagg errs in saying that Jolliet published an account of his -adventures. His journal was lost in the St. Lawrence River on the -return journey. Father Marquette, however, wrote a journal of his -travels. See Thwaites, _Jesuit Relations_, lix, which also contains -Jolliet's map of North America (1674).--ED. - -[11] The Island of Anticosti, in the estuary of St. Lawrence River, -contains about 3,900 square miles, and is not only of importance as a -centre of hunting and fishing interests, but is rich in undeveloped -mineral resources. The population of a few hundred souls is chiefly -concerned in fishing. The island is now the property of M. Henri -Menier, a Parisian chocolate manufacturer, who personally rules his -seigniory with benevolent despotism.--ED. - -[12] Concerning La Salle's discoveries, see Ogden's _Letters from the -West_, in our volume xix, pp. 44-53, and accompanying notes.--ED. - -[13] Concerning Hennepin's expedition from Crêvecœur to the Falls of St. -Anthony, Flagg is in error. Hennepin was accompanied by two Frenchmen, -Michel Accault and Antoine Auguel, and probably went merely as their -spiritual companion. His publications were: _Description de la -Louisiane_ (Paris, 1683); _Nouvelle Découverte d'un tres grand Pays -Situé dans l'Amérique_ (Utrecht, 1697); _Nouveau Voyage d'un Pais plus -grand que l'Europe_ (Utrecht, 1698). The first was dedicated to Louis -XIV, the last two to William III, king of England. For bibliography of -Hennepin, see Victor Hugo Paltsits, "Bibliographical Data," in Thwaites, -_Hennepin's New Discovery_ (Chicago, 1903), pp. xlv-lxiv.--ED. - -[14] M. Tonti, among other writers, speaking of the country, according -to Mr. Peck's translation, says: - -"The soil is, generally speaking, so fertile, that it produces -naturally, without culture, those fruits that nature and art together -have much ado to bring forth in Europe. They have two crops every year -without any great fatigue. The vines bring extraordinary grapes, -without the care of the husbandman, and the fruit-trees need no -gardeners to look after them. The air is everywhere temperate. The -country is watered with navigable rivers, and delicious brooks and -rivulets. It is stocked with all sorts of beasts, as bulls, -_orignacs_, wolves, lions, wild asses, stags, goats, sheep, foxes, -hares, beavers, otters, dogs, and all sorts of fowl, which afford a -plentiful game for the inhabitants." - -In another place, this writer gives an amusing account of hunting "wild -bulls," which "go always by droves of three or four hundred each." This -description answers well for the buffalo, but it is not so easy to -determine what animals they mistook for "wild asses, goats, and sheep." - -Passing down the Mississippi, Tonti mentions the same animals, and -describes the forest-trees with tolerable accuracy, had he not added, -"one sees there whole plains covered with pomegranate-trees, -orange-trees, and lemon-trees; and, in one word, with all kinds of -fruit-trees." Goats are frequently mentioned by different writers. -Hennepin, while narrating the account of an embassy from Fort -Frontenac to the Iroquois nation, and the reception the party met -with, says: "The younger savages washed our feet, and rubbed them with -grease of deer, _wild goats_, and oil of bears." When upset in their -boat and cast on the western shore of Lake Michigan, an Indian of -their company "killed several stags and wild goats." - -Wild goats are named so frequently, and in so many connexions, as -hardly to admit of an intentional misrepresentation.--FLAGG. - -_Comment by Ed._ For sketches of Charlevoix and Tonty, see Nuttall's -_Journal_, in our volume xiii, pp. 116 and 117, notes 81 and 85 -respectively. - -[15] For a recent work on La Salle, consult P. Chesnel, _Histoire de -Cavelier de La Salle_ (Paris, 1901). With the exception of Crêvecœur, -Prudhomme, and St. Louis, we have no definite proof that La Salle -established any other forts in the Mississippi Valley. He erected a -monument at the mouth of the Mississippi on April 9, 1682, on taking -possession of the country in the name of Louis XIV. Kaskaskia and -Cahokia were not founded by the associates of La Salle on the latter's -return. For historical sketches of these towns, see A. Michaux's -_Travels_, in our volume iii, p. 69, note 132, and p. 70, note 135, -respectively. La Salle was assassinated March 19, 1687, on a branch of -the Trinity River, in the present state of Texas.--ED. - -[16] Father Marquette died May 18, 1675, on the present site of -Ludington, Michigan.--ED. - -[17] For the settlement of Peoria, see our volume xxvi, p. 133, note -93.--ED. - -[18] Owing to the exhaustion of France following the War of the Spanish -Succession, Louis XIV, determined to develop the resources of the vast -Louisiana territory, granted (September 14, 1712) to Antoine Crozat, a -wealthy merchant, the exclusive right of trade in Louisiana for a term -of fifteen years. Among other privileges, Crozat was permitted to send -one ship a year to Africa for a cargo of negroes; to possess and operate -all mines of precious metals in the territory, on the condition that a -fourth of the metal be turned over to the king; and to possess in -perpetuity all buildings and manufactories erected by him in the colony. -On the other hand, Crozat was obliged to import two shiploads of -colonists each year, and after nine years to assume all the expenses of -the government. In the meantime the king was to furnish fifty thousand -livres annually. Crozat did all in his power to develop the resources of -the country; but owing to discord among the subordinate officials, in -despair he surrendered the charter to the prince regent (August 13, -1717). See Charles Gayarré, _History of Louisiana_ (New Orleans, 1903). -After Crozat's surrender, Louisiana territory was turned over to the -Mississippi (or Western) Company, directed by John Law; see _post_, p. -49, note 28. Philip François Renault was made the principal agent for a -French company, whose purpose was the development of the mines of the -territory. In 1719 he sailed from France with more than two hundred -mechanics, stopped at the West Indies, and secured a cargo of five -hundred negro slaves, and in due course arrived at Fort Chartres in the -Illinois (1721). Large grants of land for mining purposes were made to -Renault--an extensive tract west of the Mississippi River; another, -fifteen leagues square, near the site of Peoria; and still another above -Fort Chartres, one league along the river and two leagues deep. He -founded St. Philippe, near the fort, and built what was probably the -first smelting furnace in the Mississippi Valley. In 1743 he returned to -France, where he died.--ED. - -[19] Pierre Charles le Sueur went to Canada when a young man, and -engaged in the fur-trade. In 1693, while commandant at Chequamegon, he -erected two forts--one on Madelaine Island, in Chequamegon Bay (Lake -Superior), and another on an island in the Mississippi, near Red Wing, -Minnesota. Later he discovered lead mines along the upper Mississippi. -In 1699 he returned from a visit to France, and under Iberville's -directions searched for copper mines in the Sioux country, where Le -Sueur had earlier found green earth. Le Sueur reached the mouth of -Missouri River (July 13, 1700) with nineteen men, according to Bénard -de la Harpe's manuscript, compiled from Le Sueur's Journal--with -twenty-nine men, as related by Pénicaut, a member of the expedition. -The company was later increased to perhaps thirty or forty, but not -ninety, as Flagg says. Le Sueur ascended the Mississippi, and its -tributary the Minnesota, and erected a fort in August, 1700, one -league above the point where the Blue Earth River (St. Peter's River, -until 1852) empties into the Minnesota. This fort he named l'Huillier, -in honor of his patron in France. Flagg has confused this site with -that of Fort Armstrong at Rock Island, Illinois. In May, 1701, Le -Sueur left the fort in care of d'Eraque, who remained in charge until -1703, when he abandoned the place. For extracts from original -documents relating to Le Sueur's activities, consult: "Le Sueur's -Mines on the Mississippi," "Le Sueur's Voyage up the Mississippi," and -"Le Sueur's Fort on the Mississippi," in _Wisconsin Historical -Collections_, xvi, pp. 173, 174, 177-200.--ED. - -[20] "_Petits paysans._"--FLAGG. - -[21] The battle of Mauilla, to which Flagg is referring, was fought in -October, 1540, between De Soto's men and the Mobilian Indians, near -the present site of Mobile. Our author is mistaken in supposing that -these Indians were the Kaskaskia. De Soto reached the Mississippi in -May, 1541, and died May 21, 1542. He started on the expedition with -less than seven hundred men, instead of one thousand. According to -Herrera, his body was laid in a hollow live-oak log, and lowered into -the Mississippi; but it seems more probable that the corpse was -wrapped in mantles made heavy by a ballast of sand, and thus lowered -into the water. See John G. Shea, "Ancient Florida," in Justin Winsor, -_Narrative and Critical History of America_ (Boston and New York, -1886), ii, pp. 231-283; also E. G. Bourne (ed.) _Narratives of the -Career of Hernando de Soto_ (New York, 1904).--ED. - -[22] Annexed is a copy of the grant of the celebrated _commons_ -attached to the village of Kaskaskia. It is the earliest title the -citizens hold to seven thousand acres of the most fertile land in the -West--perhaps in the world. - -"PIERRE DE RIGAULT DE VAUDREUIL, Governor and EDME GATIEN SALMON -Commissary orderer of the Province of Louisiana, seen the petition to -us presented on the sixteenth day of June of this present year by the -Inhabitants of the Parish of the Immaculate Conception of Kaskaskia -dependence of the Illinois, tending to be confirmed in the possession -of a common which they have had a long time for the pasturage of their -cattle in the Point called _La point de bois_, which runs to the -entrance of the River Kaskaskia. We, by virtue of the power to us -granted by his Majesty have confirmed and do confirm to the said -Inhabitants the possession of the said common on the following -conditions-- - -"First, That the concessions heretofore granted either by the India -Company either by our predecessors or by us in the prairie of -Kaskaskia on the side of the point which runs to the entrance of the -river, shall terminate at the land granted to a man named _Cavalier_, -and in consequence, that all concessions that may have been made on -the said point from the land of the said Cavalier forward, on the side -of the entrance of the said river shall be null and void and of no -effect. In consequence of which, the said Point, as it is above -designated, shall remain in common without altering its nature, -nevertheless, reserving to us the power whenever the case may require -it, of granting the said commons to the inhabitants established and -who may establish, and this, on the representations which may be made -to us by the commandants and sub-delegates in the said places. - -"Secondly, on the road vulgarly called the _Square Line_ between the -large and small line shall be rendered practicable and maintained for -the passage of the Carts and Cattle going into the Common, and this by -lack of the proprietors as well of the great as of the small line -whose lands border on the roads of the _Square line_. And as to the -places which ought to run along the side of the village from the said -road of the Square line unto the river, as also the one on the side of -the point running to the Mississippi and to the Kaskaskia river, they -shall be made and maintained at the expense of the community, to the -end that the cultivated lands be not injured by the cattle. - -"Thirdly, To facilitate to the inhabitants the means of making their -autumnal harvest, and prevent its being damaged by the cattle, we -forbid all persons to leave their cattle range upon cultivated -lands--they are, notwithstanding, permitted to graze upon their own -proper lands on having them diligently watched. - -"Fourthly, Willing that the wood which is on the land granted belong -to the proprietors of the said lands, we forbid all persons to cut -down any elsewhere than on their own lands, and as to the wood which -may be found in the commons to cut down for their own use, either for -building or for fire wood, and this shall be the present regulation. - -"Read, published and affixed to the end that no person may be ignorant -thereof. Given at New-Orleans the fourteenth day of August, 1743. - - VAUDREUIL. - - "SALMON."--FLAGG. - -[23] "Under the old management all the inhabitants had equal access to -the commons for pasturage and fuel. By an act of the legislature -passed in 1854, the citizens were authorized to elect five trustees -every two years, who should exercise the charge of the commons, lease -portions thereof, and apply the proceeds to church and school purposes -only. The common fields were also originally owned jointly by the -villagers, though each resident was assigned an individual portion. -The United States commissioners, in 1809, determined the rights of -each citizen, and the lots have since been held in fee simple." See -_Combined History of Randolph, Monroe, and Perry Counties, Illinois_ -(Philadelphia, 1883), p. 308.--ED. - -[24] For the memorial of George Morgan, upon these lands along the -Mississippi River, the report of the committee to which the above had -been referred, and the resolutions of Congress thereon (August 28, 29, -1788), see _Laws of the United States, etc._ (Bioren edition, -Philadelphia, 1815), i, pp. 580-585.--ED. - -[25] For an account of the extermination of the Natchez, see F. A. -Michaux's _Travels_, in our volume iii, p. 254, note 53.--ED. - -[26] Doubtless an exaggeration.--FLAGG. - -_Comment by Ed._ "From 1810 to 1820 the town (Kaskaskia) probably -contained more people than at any other period of its history. A -census taken at that time showed a population of seven thousand." See -_History of Randolph, Monroe, and Perry Counties_, p. 307. - -[27] A monastery and accompanying college, liberally endowed from -Europe, was founded at Kaskaskia by Jesuit missionaries in the first -quarter of the eighteenth century.--ED. - -[28] "The idea," says Adam Smith, "of the possibility of multiplying -paper money to almost any extent, was the real foundation of what is -called the _Mississippi scheme_, the most extravagant project, both of -banking and stock-jobbing, that perhaps the world ever saw."--FLAGG. - -_Comment by Ed._ John Law died at Venice, March 21, 1729. Concerning -his financial methods, see Émile Levasseur, _Recherches historique sur -le system de Law_ (Paris, 1854). Ample and accurate is Andrew M. -Davis's _A Historical Study of Law's System_ (Boston, 1887), reprinted -from _Quarterly Journal of Economics_ (Boston, 1887), i, pp. 289-318, -420-452. - -[29] Breckenridge.--FLAGG. - -[30] For an account of the early lead-mines, see Flagg's _Far West_, -in our volume xxvi, p. 95, note 60.--ED. - -[31] For an historical sketch of Ste. Genevieve, see Cuming's _Tour_, -in our volume iv, p. 266, note 174.--ED. - -[32] The French civil law still prevails in Louisiana. - -For a good monograph on the Ordinance of 1787, and the text of the -same, see Jay Amos Barrett, _Evolution of the Ordinance of 1787, with -an Account of the earlie Plans for the Government of the Northwest -Territory_ (New York, 1891).--ED. - - - - - XXXVI - - "If my readers should at any time remark that I am particularly - dull, they may rest assured there is a design under it."--_British - Essayist._ - - "Let not ambition mock their useful toil, - Their homely joys, and destiny obscure; - Nor grandeur hear with a disdainful smile - The short and simple annals of the poor." - GRAY'S _Elegy_. - - -Few things are more difficult, and, consequently, more rarely met, -than correct portraiture of character, whether of the individual or of -a community. It is easy enough, indeed, to trace out the prominent -outlines in the picture; and with a degree of accuracy which shall -render it easily recognised, while yet the more delicate shading and -lighting is false; just as the artist may have transferred every -feature in exact form, size, and proportion to his canvass, while the -expression thrown over the whole may be incorrect. This has more than -once been the case in descriptions hastily drawn of that singular -being, _the French villager of the Mississippi_. One distinguished -writer has given an absolute caricature of the race. My own design has -been, therefore, merely to throw before the reader those -characteristic traits which not even the most careless observer could -have failed to detect. - -[CLXI] Though betraying but little of that fiery restlessness which -distinguishes the Parisian, these men are yet Frenchmen in more respects -than mere origin. In their ordinary deportment we view, indeed, rather -the calm gravity, the saturnine severity of the Spaniard; and yet in -their _fêtes_ and amusements, which were formerly far more frequent than -at present, they exhibit all the gayety of the native of La Belle -France. The calm, quiet tenour of their lives presenting but few objects -for enterprise, none for the strivings of ambition, and but little -occasion of any kind to elicit the loftier energies of our nature, has -imparted to their character, their feelings, their manners, to the very -language they speak, a languid softness strongly contrasted by the -unquiet restlessness of the emigrant who is succeeding them. Hospitality -was formerly, with them, hardly a virtue: it was a matter of course, -arising from their peculiarity of situation; and the swinging sign of -the tavern is a recent usurpation. The statute-book, the judiciary, -courts of law, and the penitentiary, were things little recognised among -these simple-hearted people; for where the inequalities of life were -unknown, what was the inducement to crime demanding this enginery of -punishment? Learning and science, too, were terms scarcely comprehended, -their technicalities not at all; for schools were few, and _learned men_ -still more so; and thus reading, writing, and ciphering are, and ever -have been, the acme of scholastic proficiency with the French villager. -How many of the honest fellows can do even this, [CLXII] is not for me -to estimate. As to politics and the _affairs of the nation_, which their -countrymen on the other side of the water ever seem to think no -inconsiderable object of their being, they are too tame, and too lazy, -and too quiet to think of the subject. Indeed, the worthy villagers very -wisely look upon "earthly dignities" and the like much with the stoicism -of Cardinal Wolsey in disgrace, - - "Oh, 'tis a burden, Cromwell, 'tis a burden, - Too heavy for a man that hopes for heaven." - -The virtues of these people are said to be many: punctuality and -honesty in their dealings; politeness and hospitality to strangers; -though, it must be confessed, the manifold impositions practised upon -their simplicity of late years has tended to substitute for the latter -virtue not a little of coolness and distrust. There is much -friendship and warmth of feeling between neighbours and kindred, and -the women make affectionate wives, though by no means prone to -consider themselves in the light of goods and chattels of their -liege-lords, as is not unfrequently the case in more enlightened -communities. Indeed, as touching this matter, the Mississippi French -villager invariably reverses the sage maxim of the poet, - - "In things of moment on _yourself_ depend;" - -for he never presumes to depend upon any one but his faithful helpmate, -whether things are of moment or not. As to religious faith, all are -Catholics; and formerly, more than of late years, were punctilious in -observance of the ceremony and discipline [CLXIII] of their church, -permitting but few festivals of the calendar to pass unobserved. Their -wealth consisted chiefly of personal property, slaves, merchandise, -etc.; land being deemed an item of secondary consideration, while lead -and peltry constituted the ordinary circulating medium. Rent for houses -was a thing hardly known. All this changed long ago, of course; and -while real estate has augmented in value many hundred per cent., -personal property has somewhat proportionally depreciated. - -In the ordinary avocations of the villagers, there is but little -variety or distinction even at the present day, and formerly this -uniformity of pursuit was yet more observable. The wealthier and more -enterprising _habitans_ were traders, often with peculiar and -exclusive privileges; and they kept a heterogeneous stock of goods in -the largest room of their dwelling-houses, by way of being merchants. -There are but few who practice the mechanic arts for a livelihood: -carpenters, smiths, tailors, shoemakers, etc., as _artisans_, were -formerly almost unknown, and there is now in this respect but little -change. Now, as then, the mass of the population are agriculturists, -while many of the young and enterprising men embrace with pride, as -offering a broad field for generous emulation, the occupations of -boatmen, traders to the Rocky Mountains--in the vicinity of which most -of their lives are passed--_engagés_ of the American Fur Company, or -hunters and trappers upon the prairies. The bold recklessness of this -class has long been notorious. - -[CLXIV] The _idiom_ of these villages, though by no means as pure as -it might be, is yet much more so, all things considered, than could be -expected. It requires no very close observation or proficiency in the -language to detect a difference, especially in pronunciation, from the -European French. There is not that nervous, animated _brilliancy_ of -dialect which distinguishes the latter; and the nasal, lengthened, -drawling sound of words, gives their conversation a languid, though by -no means a disagreeable movement. It is said to be more soft and -euphonious than the vernacular, though very different from the Creole -dialect of the West India Islands. There are some provincialisms, and -some words which a century ago might have been recognized in some -provinces of France, though not now. - -As to the item of _costume_, it is still somewhat unique, though -formerly, we are told, much more so: that of the men was a course -blanket-coat, with a cap attached behind in lieu of a cape; and which, -from the circumstance of drawing over the head, gave the garment the -name of _capote_. Around the head was wreathed a blue handkerchief in -place of a hat, and on the feet moccasins instead of shoes and -stockings. All this, however, has pretty generally given place to the -American garb, though some of the very aged villagers may still be seen -in their ancient habiliments, the _capote_, moccasins, blue handkerchief -on the head, and an endless queue lengthened out behind. Their chief -_amusement_ ever has been, and, probably, ever will be, the DANCE, in -which all, even from the least to the greatest, [CLXV] bond and free, -unite. Their _slaves_ are treated well, if we may judge from -appearances; for nowhere in the West have I seen a sleeker, fleshier, -happier-looking set of mortals than the blacks of these old villages. - -Previous to the cession of Louisiana to our government, the _Laws_ of -Spain were pretty generally in force throughout the province, so far -as related to municipal arrangement and real estate, while the common -law of France--_Coutume de Paris_--governed all contracts of a social -nature, modified by and interwoven with the customs of the people.[33] -Each district had its commandant, and each village its syndic, besides -judges in civil affairs for the province, and officers of the -_militia_, a small body of which was stationed in every district, -though too inconsiderable to afford much protection to the -inhabitants. These rulers were appointed by the governor at -New-Orleans, to whom there was an appeal; and the lieutenant-governor, -who resided at St. Louis, was commander of the troops. Thus the -government was a mixture of civil and military; and, though arbitrary -to the last degree, yet we are told the rod of domination was so -slight as scarcely to be felt.[34] However this may be, it is pretty -certain they did not well relish at first the change in the -administration of justice when they came under the jurisdiction of our -laws. The delay and uncertainty attendant on trial by jury, and the -multifarious technicalities of our jurisprudence, they [CLXVI] could -not well comprehend, either as to import, importance, or utility; and -it is not strange they should have preferred the prompt despatch of -arbitrary power. Nor is the modern administration of justice the -_only_ change with which the simple-hearted villager is dissatisfied. -On every side of him _improvement_, the watchword of the age, is -incessantly ringing in his ears; and if there be one term in all our -vocabulary he abhors more than all others, it is this same: and, -reader, there is much wisdom in his folly. In 1811 the invention of -Fulton's mighty genius was first beheld walking upon the Western -waters; and from that hour "the occupation" of the daring, reckless, -chivalrous French voyageur "was gone." Again the spirit of improvement -declared that the venerable old cottage, gray with a century's years, -must give place to the style and material of a more modern date; and -lo! the aged dwelling where his fathers lived, and where his eyes -opened on the light, is swept away, and its very site is known no -more. And then the streets and thoroughfares where his boyhood has -frolicked, as the village increases to a city, must be widened, and -straightened, and paved, and all for no earthly reason, to his -comprehension, but to prevent familiar chat with his opposite -neighbour, when sitting on his balcony of a long summer night, and to -wear out his poor pony's unshodden hoofs! It is very true that their -landed property, where they have managed to retain it from the iron -grasp of speculation, has increased in value almost beyond calculation -by the change; but they now refuse to [CLXVII] profit by selling. -Merchandise, the comforts and luxuries of life, have become cheaper -and more easily obtained, and the reward of industrious enterprise is -greater. But what is all this to men of their peculiar habits and -feelings? Once they were far better contented, even in comparative -poverty. There was then a harmony, and cordiality, and unanimity of -feeling pervading their society which it never can know again. They -were as one family in every village; nearly all were connected either -by ties of affinity, consanguinity, propinquity, or friendship: -distinction of rank or wealth was little known, and individuals of -every class were dressed alike, and met upon equal and familiar -footing in the same ballroom. It is needless to say, that now "_Nous -avons changé tout cela._"[35] - -As to the poorer class of these villagers, it is more than doubtful -whether they have _at all_ been benefited by the change of the past -twenty years. We must not forget that, as a race, they are peculiar in -character, habits, and feeling; and so utterly distinct from ourselves, -that they can with hardly more facility associate in customs with us -than can our red brother of the prairie. Formerly the poorest, and the -laziest, and the most reckless class was fearless of want or beggary; -but now a more enterprising race has seized upon the lands with which -they have imprudently parted, perhaps with little remuneration, and they -find themselves abridged in many of their former immunities. Their -cattle may no longer range at will, nor have they the liberty [CLXVIII] -of appropriating wood for fuel wherever it seemeth good. It cannot be -denied, that many a one gains now a precarious subsistence, where -formerly he would have lived in comfort. Nearly every one possesses a -little cart, two or three diminutive ponies, a few cattle, a cottage, -and garden. But in agriculture, the superior industry of the new -immigrant can afford them for lease-rent double the result of their -toil, while as draymen, labourers, or workmen of any kind, it is not -difficult for foreigners to surpass them. In a few years the steamer -will have driven the keel-boat from the Western waters, and with it the -_voyageur_, the _patron_, and the _courier du bois_; but the occupation -of the hunter, trapper, and _engagé_, in which the French villager can -never be excelled, must continue so long as the American Fur Company -find it profitable to deal in buffalo robes, or enterprising men think -proper to go to Santa Fé for gold dust. Nor will the farmer, however -lazy, lose the reward of his labour so long as the market of St. Louis -is as little _over_stocked as at present. Nathless, it is pretty certain -"_times ain't now as they used to was_" to the French villager, all this -to the contrary notwithstanding. - -_Kaskaskia, Ill._ - -FOOTNOTES: - -[33] Under the feudal régime in France, the local or customary laws of -the more important centres of population came gradually to extend -their sway over larger and larger districts. With the rising -importance of Paris, the _coutume de Paris_ (common law of Paris), -reformed in 1580 by order of the parliament, in time displaced all -others; it breathed the national spirit. Codified, it was in a sense -the forerunner of the Code Napoleon.--ED. - -[34] Breckenridge--to whom the author is indebted for other facts -relative to these early settlements.--FLAGG. - -_Comment by Ed._ Henry Marie Brackenridge (not Breckenridge), _Views -of Louisiana_ (Pittsburgh, 1814). - -[35] Sganarelle.--FLAGG. - -_Comment by Ed._ Sganarelle is a character in Molière's plays, notably -in "Le Médicin malgré lui." - - - - - XXXVII - - "All things have an end. - Churches and cities, that have diseases like to man, - Must have like death that we have." - - "Birth has gladden'd it: Death has sanctified it." - - "The roof-tree sinks, but moulders on the wall - In massy hoariness." - _Childe Harold._ - - -In remarking upon the history of the French in the West, and the -peculiarities which still continue to characterize them, I am aware I -have lingered longer than could have been anticipated; much longer, -certainly, than was my original intention. The circumstances which have -induced this delay have been somewhat various. The subject _itself_ is -an interesting one. Apart from the delight we all experience in musing -upon the events of bygone time, and that gratification, so singularly -exquisite, of treading amid the scenes of "things departed," there is an -interest which every individual who has cast his lot in the great Valley -cannot fail to feel in every item, even the most minute, which may -pertain to its history. In dwelling, too, upon the features of "old -Kaskaskia," my design has been to exemplify the distinguishing -characteristics of all these early settlements, both French and Spanish, -in the Valley of the Mississippi. The peculiarities of all are the same, -as were the circumstances [CLXX] which first conduced to them. The same -customs, the same religion, the same amusements, and the same form of -government prevailed among all; and though dissimilar in dialect, and -separated by the broad Mississippi, yet, cut off from all the rest of -mankind, both the French and the Spanish villagers were glad to smother -differences, and to bind themselves to each other in their dependant -situation by the tendrils of mutually kind offices and social -intercourse. Thus, several of the villages stand opposite each other -upon the banks of the Mississippi. Ste. Genevieve is only across the -stream from Kaskaskia, and many fine old traditionary legends of these -early times are yet extant, and should be treasured up before too late. - -But another circumstance which has been not unfavourable to that -prolixity into which I have suffered my pen to glide, and without which -other inducements might have proved ineffectual, has been the quiet, -dreamy seclusion of this old hamlet, so congenial to the workings of the -brain. Yesterday was like to-day, and to-morrow will be the transcript -of yesterday; and so time's current slips lazily along, like - - "The liquid lapse of a murmuring stream." - -As to objects of interest, one could hardly have lingered so long as -I have within the precincts of this "sleepy hollow" without having met -with some incidents worthy of regard for their _novelty_, if for -naught else. - -There are few situations in Illinois which can [CLXXI] boast -advantages for mercantile transaction superior to Kaskaskia. But the -villagers are not a commercial, enterprising, money-making people, and -the trade of the place is, therefore, very small. The river is said to -be navigable for fifty miles from its mouth; the current is gentle, -and an inconsiderable expense in clearing the channel of fallen timber -would enable small boats to penetrate nearly two hundred miles higher, -by the meanderings of the stream, to Vandalia. Measures for this -purpose have been entered upon. A land-office for the district is here -established.[36] The number of families is seventy or eighty, nearly -all French and all Catholics, besides considerable transient -population--boatmen, hunters, trappers, who traverse the great rivers -and broad prairies of the valley. - -Opposite Kaskaskia, on the summit of a lofty crag overlooking the -river, once stood a large fortress of massive timber, named Fort Gage. -Its form was an oblong quadrangle, the exterior polygon being several -hundred yards in circumference. It was burnt to the ground in 1766. -About twelve years subsequent to this event, the place was taken by -the American troops under Colonel George Rogers Clarke, "Hannibal of -the West." After most incredible exertions in the march from Virginia, -he arrived before Kaskaskia in the night; and, though fortified, so -bewildering was the surprise of the villagers, that not a blow was -struck, and the town was taken.[37] - -The aged Catholic church at Kaskaskia, among [CLXXII] other relics of -the olden time, is well worthy a stranger's visit. It was erected more -than a century since upon the ruins of a former structure of similar -character, but is still in decent condition, and the only church in -the place. It is a huge old pile, extremely awkward and ungainly, with -its projecting eaves, its walls of hewn timber perpendicularly -planted, and the interstices stuffed with mortar, with its quaint, -old-fashioned spire, and its dark, storm-beaten casements. The -interior of the edifice is somewhat imposing, notwithstanding the -sombre hue of its walls; these are rudely plastered with lime, and -decorated with a few dingy paintings. The floor is of loose, rough -boards, and the ceiling arched with oaken panels. The altar and the -lamp suspended above are very antique, I was informed by the -officiating priest, having been used in the former church. The lamp is -a singular specimen of superstition illustrated by the arts. But the -structure of the _roof_ is the most remarkable feature of this -venerable edifice. This I discovered in a visit to the belfry of the -tower, accomplished at no little expenditure of sinew and muscle, for -stairs are an appliance quite unknown to this primitive building. -There are frames of two distinct roofs, of massive workmanship, neatly -united, comprising a vast number of rafters, buttresses, and braces, -crossing each other at every angle, and so ingeniously and accurately -arranged by the architect, that it is mathematically impossible that -any portion of the structure shall sink until time with a single blow -shall level the entire [CLXXIII] edifice.[38] It is related, that when -this church was about being erected, the simple villagers, astonished -at the immense quantities of timber required for the frame, called a -meeting of the citizens, and for a time laid an interdict upon -operations, until inquiry respecting the matter should be made. It was -with difficulty the architect at length obtained permission to -proceed; but, when all was completed, and the material had -disappeared, they knew not where, their astonishment surpassed all -bounds. The belfry reminded me of one of those ancient monuments of -the Druids called _Rocking-stones_; for though it tottered to and fro -beneath my weight, and always swings with the bell when it is struck, -perhaps the united force of an hundred men could hardly hurl it from -its seat. The bell is consecrated by the crucifix cast in its surface, -and bears the inscription "_Pour Leglise des Illinois. Normand A. -Parachelle_, 1741." The view from this elevation was extremely -beautiful: the settlement scattered for miles around, with the quaint -little cottages and farms all smiling in the merry sunlight, could -hardly fail of the lovely and picturesque. [CLXXIV] The churchyard -attached to the building is not extensive, but crowded with tenants. -It is into this receptacle that for four generations Kaskaskia has -poured her entire population. I saw but a few monuments and a pile of -stones. The first record on the register belonging to this church is, -I was informed by the priest, to the following effect, in French: -"1741, _June_ 7. _This morning were brought to the fort three bodies -from without, killed by the Renards, to whom we gave sepulture._" -There is here also a baptismal record, embracing the genealogies of -the French settlers since 1690, and other choice old chronicles.[39] -Some land deeds still remain extant, bearing date as early as 1712, -and a memorial also from the villagers to Louis XV., dated 1725, -petitioning a grant of "_commons_," etc., in consequence of disasters -from the flood of the preceding year, in which their all had been -swept away, and they had been forced themselves to flee for life to -the bluffs opposite the village. - -The Nunnery at Kaskaskia is a large wooden structure, black with age, -and formerly a public house. With this institution is connected a -female seminary, in high repute throughout this region, and under -superintendence of ten of the sisters. A new nunnery of stone is about -being erected.[40] - -It was a glorious morning, and, with many a lingering step, I left -behind me the village of old Kaskaskia. As I rode leisurely along the -banks of that placid stream, and among the beautiful farms of the -French settlers, I was more than once reminded forcibly of similar -scenery high up the Kennebeck, [CLXXV] in a distant section of Maine, -known by the name of "_Indian Old Point_," where I once took a ramble -with a college classmate during an autumn vacation. The landscape is -one of singular beauty; yet, were it otherwise, there is a charm -thrown around this distant and lonely spot by its association with an -interesting passage in the earliest history of the country. In the -expressive language of an eloquent writer, who has made the place the -scene of an Indian tale, _the soil is fertilized by the blood of a -murdered tribe_. Here, one hundred years ago, stood the village of the -Norridgewocks, a tribe of the powerful Abnaquis, who then held -undisputed domination over the extensive wilds of the far East. Though -possessing not the fierce valour of the Pequods, the sinewy vigour of -the Delawares, the serpent-like subtlety of the Penobscots, the -bell-toned idiom of the Iroquois, we are yet told they were a powerful -tribe for their intelligence and their numbers. The Jesuit -missionaries of Canada, while at this era they were gliding upon the -beautiful rivers of the distant West, had not neglected the steril -rocks of the equally remote East: and the hamlet of the Norridgewocks -had early been subjected to the influences of the fascinating ceremony -and the lofty ritual of the Catholic faith. Under the guidance of the -devoted Sebastian Rasle, a rude church was erected by the natives, and -its gray, cross-crowned spire reared up itself among the low-roofed -wigwams. Beloved by his savage flock, the venerable Father Rasle lived -on in peacefulness and quietude for thirty years in the home of his -adoption. During [CLXXVI] the troubled period of the "French and -Indian War" which ensued, suspicions arose that the Norridgewocks -were influenced by their missionary to many of their acts of lawless -violence upon a village of English settlers but a few miles distant. -In the autumn of 1724 this distrust had augmented to a conviction that -the Abnaquis had resolved on the extermination of the white race, and -a detachment of soldiers ascended the Kennebeck. It was a bright, -beautiful morning of the Sabbath when they approached the Indian -hamlet. The sweet-toned bell of the little chapel awoke the echoes -with its clear peal, and announced the hour of mass just as the early -sunlight was tinting the far-off hill-tops. A few moments, and every -living soul in the village was within the church, and had bowed in -humbleness before the "Great Spirit." The deep tones of the venerable -Rasle were supplicating, "_Ora, ora pro nobis_," when the soldiers -rushed in. Terrible and indiscriminate was the massacre that ensued. -Not one was spared; not _one_! The pious Rasle poured out his heart's -blood upon the altar of his devotion. Those of the natives who escaped -from the chapel were either shot down or perished miserably in the -river, their bark canoes having been previously perforated by the -treachery of their foes.[41] The drowsy beams of that day's setting -sun dreamed beautifully as ever among the fragrant pine-tops and the -feathery hemlocks of the river-bank; but his slanting rays smiled upon -the ancient hamlet beneath [CLXXVII] whose ashes its exterminated -dwellers were slumbering the last sleep! - -The grave of Father Rasle, a green mound overlooking the stream, was -pointed out to us. A granite obelisk to his memory was erected by -Bishop Fenwick, of Boston, a few years since, but was demolished by a -party of miscreants soon after its completion. My object in this -lengthened episode upon the Norridgewocks, so casually introduced, has -been twofold: to illustrate the peaceful policy of the French towards -the Indian all over the continent, and to contrast it with that of -other Europeans. - -The ride from Kaskaskia to Prairie du Rocher in early autumn is truly -delightful. Crossing _Aubuchon_, formerly called St. Philippe--a -passage from the Mississippi to the Kaskaskia, about four miles above -the town, and through which, in high floods, a rapid current passes -from one river to the other--the path lay through a tract of -astonishing fertility, where the wild fruit flourishes with a -luxuriance known to no other soil. Endless thickets of the wild -plum[42] and the blackberry, interlaced and matted together by the -young grape-vines streaming with gorgeous clusters, were to be seen -stretching for miles along the plain. Such boundless profusion of wild -fruit I had never seen before. Vast groves of the ruby crab-apple, the -golden persimmon,[43] the black and white mulberry,[44] and the wild -cherry,[45] were [CLXXVIII] sprinkled with their rainbow hues in -isolated masses over the prairie, or extended themselves in long -luxurious streaks glowing in the sun. The pawpaw,[46] too, with its -luscious, pulpy fruit; the peach, the pear, and the quince, all thrive -in wild luxuriance here; while of the nuts, the pecan or Choctaw nut, -the hickory, and the black walnut, are chief. As for grapes, the -indigenous vines are prolific; and the fruit is _said_ to be so -excellent, that wine might be, and even has been, made from them, and -has been exported by the early French in such quantities to France, -that the trade was prohibited lest the sale of a staple of that -kingdom should be injured! But all this is undoubtedly exaggeration, -if no more. Although the grape and the wine of southern Illinois have -long been the theme of the traveller through that delightful region, -from the worthy Father Hennepin, who tells us of the purple clusters -lending their rich hues to the gliding wave, to the tourist of the -present day, yet from personal observation I am confident they are -_now_ by no means of much importance, and from good authority am -inclined to think they _never_ were so. As to the manufacture of wine -becoming a matter interesting to commerce, there is no probability of -that. A kind of liquor was formerly made in some quantities from what -is called the _winter grape_, common to the same latitude in many -portions of the United States, but it is said to have been a very -indifferent beverage. It was made in the following simple manner: the -clusters were heaped in broad, shallow [CLXXIX] vessels of wood, and, -after being crushed, the juice was expressed through perforations for -the purpose in the sides and bottom, by the application of heavy -weights, into vessels prepared for its reception. Slight fermentation -then completed the process.[47] - -A ride of some hours through this delightful region brought me to the -bluffs, which, at this point extending into the plain, confine the -bottom to a narrow strip, bounded on the one side by the Mississippi, -and on the other by the battlement of the cliffs, upward of an hundred -feet in height. Beneath lies the French village of _Prairie du Rocher_, -so called from its situation.[48] It is thirteen miles from Kaskaskia, -and its low cottages scattered along, like the tents of a nomadic tribe, -for miles, are completely overhung by the huge, beetling crags above. -From the deep alluvion along the river's verge rises an enormous growth -of cottonwood-trees and sycamores, concealing the stream from the view. -From the bluffs to this belt of forest stretches away the vast _common -field_, rustling with maize. The castor-bean and tobacco-plant are also -often seen carpeting the ground with emerald. Around each tenement, as -usual, is a plat of cultivated land, and the luxuriance of vegetation is -unrivalled. Passing these outskirts, I at length arrived at the body of -the village, lying upon a creek or _bayou_ of the same name, which winds -through its centre, and empties into the Mississippi. This quiet stream -was once the scene of a very bloody tragedy. When Illinois first came -under territorial government, and courts of civil judicature [CLXXX] -were established, the functionaries of the law, in passing one day from -Cahokia to Kaskaskia, to hold at the latter place a session, stopped a -few moments at this creek to water their horses. The animals had -scarcely begun to drink, when a shower of balls from an adjoining -thicket laid three of the party weltering in their blood.[49] They had -neglected the usual precaution to disguise themselves in the garb of the -French villagers; and such was the hostility of the Indian tribes, -especially that of the Kickapoos, to our countrymen at the time, that to -travel in American costume was almost inevitable death. The Indians at -that day had the ascendency in point of population, and the Kaskaskia -tribe, as well as others, was powerful. - -At Prairie du Rocher, as everywhere else where these ancient villages -remain as yet undisturbed in their century slumbers, the peculiarities -to which I have so frequently alluded stand forth to the traveller's -eye. The narrow lanes, the steep-roofed houses, the picketed -enclosures, the piazza, the peculiar dress, manners, and amusements -of the villagers, all point back to a former age. At this place I -tarried for dinner, and while my olive-browed hostess, a trim, buxom -little matron, was "making ready," I strolled forth to the bluffs, -having first received most positive injunctions to make my -reappearance when the _horn sounded_; and, scrambling up a ravine, -soon stood upon the smooth round summit. The whole tract of country -over which my route had led was spread out like a map before me; and -the little village lay so directly at my feet [CLXXXI] I could almost -look down its chimneys. Among the crags I obtained some fine -petrifactions, which I exhibited to my simple host, much to his -astonishment, on my return. Forty years had this man dwelt upon the -very spot he then inhabited, the scene of his birth; and almost every -day of his life had he ascended the cliffs among which I had been -clambering; and yet, though the seashells were standing out in every -direction from the surface of the ledge, not the slightest peculiarity -of structure had he ever dreamed of. That the great ocean had rolled -among these rocks, he could have formed no conception. Experience had -told him that when burned they were lime, and he neither knew nor -cared to know anything farther of their character or history. This -slight incident well exemplifies the simplicity of this singular -people. Content to live where his father lived; content to cultivate -the spot he tilled; to tread in the steps which he trod; to speak the -language he spake, and revere the faith he observed, the French -villager is a stranger to the restless cravings of ambition, and -acknowledges no inclination to change. At Prairie du Rocher is a -little, dark-looking, ancient Catholic church, dedicated to St. -Sulpice, formerly "Chapel of Ease" to Fort Chartres, but at present it -has no resident priest. The population of the village is about two -hundred. Its site is low, and, buried as it is in such enormous -vegetation, the spot must be unhealthy: yet, year after year, and -generation after generation, have its present inhabitants continued to -dwell where death almost inevitable must have awaited an [CLXXXII] -American. But where will you search for a fleshier, sleeker, -swarthier-looking race than these French villagers? Some attribute -this phenomenon to diet; some to natural idiosyncrasy; and other some -do not attribute at all, but merely stand amazed. The truth of the -matter is--and the fact is one well ascertained--that, give a -Frenchman a fiddle, a pipe, a glass of claret, and room enough to -shake his heels, and, like a mushroom, he'll vegetate on any soil! - -_La Prairie du Rocher, Ill._ - -FOOTNOTES: - -[36] A land-office was established at Kaskaskia by act of Congress -approved March 26, 1804, "for so much of the lands included within the -boundaries fixed by the treaty of the thirteenth of August, one -thousand eight hundred and three, with the Kaskaskia tribe of Indians, -as is not claimed by any other Indian tribe;" this was discontinued by -order of the president, November 12, 1855. The records were -transferred to Springfield the following February.--ED. - -[37] During the Indian troubles a fort was erected in 1736 on an -eminence, later known as Garrison Hill, opposite Kaskaskia. It was -repaired and occupied by a French garrison at the opening of the French -and Indian War. In 1766 the fort was burned, but another soon afterward -built, was occupied by the English (1772) and named Fort Gage, in honor -of the British commander-in-chief. On the night of July 4, 1778, Colonel -George Rogers Clark captured the fort and made it his headquarters while -in Illinois. It was abandoned at the close of the Revolution, but was -re-occupied for a short time by American troops in 1801. Colonel Pike's -regiment was stationed there for a short period. See R. G. Thwaites, -_How George Rogers Clark Won the Northwest_ (Chicago, 1903).--ED. - -[38] The reader will recollect that these notes were sketched two -years ago. Since that time some changes in this old edifice have taken -place; the whole southwest angle has fallen to the ground, and, -agreeable to the text, the entire roof would have followed but for the -extraordinary strength of one solitary piece of timber. High mass was -in celebration at the time, and the church was crowded, but no -accident occurred. The old building has been since dismantled, -however; its bell removed from the tower, and the whole structure will -soon, probably, be prostrated by "decay's effacing finger."--FLAGG. - -[39] The earliest "extract from the baptismal records of the mission -among the Illinois, under the title of the Immaculate conception of Our -Lady," bears date March 20, 1692. The first ceremony recorded after the -removal of the mission to Kaskaskia, was performed April 17, 1701. See -"Kaskaskia Church Records," in Illinois State Historical Library -_Publications_ (Springfield, 1904), pp. 394-413; Edward G. Mason, -"Kaskaskia and its Parish Records," in _Fergus Historical Series_, No. -12 (Chicago, 1881), pp. 1-22; C. W. Alvord, _The Old Kaskaskia Records_ -(Chicago Historical Society, 1906); _Magazine of American History_, vi, -pp. 161-182; _Michigan Pioneer Collections_, v, pp. 94-109.--ED. - -[40] A convent of the Visitation was established at Kaskaskia in May, -1833, by a colony from the parent house at Georgetown, District of -Columbia. It was patronized by Pierre Menard, and connected with the -academy named in his honor. A large building was erected and opened -for pupils in 1836. The institution enjoyed a high reputation until -the flood of 1844 forced its abandonment. See _History of Randolph, -Monroe, and Perry Counties_, p. 308.--ED. - -[41] I give the tradition of the farmers now resident upon the spot. -History differs somewhat. - -Most of the historical facts relative to the extermination of the -Abnaquis will be found condensed in the subjoined extract from a late -valuable work. - -"Determined on destroying this assemblage of Indians, which was the -headquarters of the whole eastern country at this time, the English, -in 1724, sent out a force, consisting of 208 men and three Mohawk -Indians, under Captains _Moulton_, _Harman_, and _Bourne_, to humble -them. They came upon the village the 23d August, when there was not a -man in arms to oppose them. They had left 40 of their men at Teconet -Falls, which is now within the town of Winslow, upon the Kennebeck, -and about two miles below Waterville College, upon the opposite side -of the river. The English had divided themselves into three squadrons: -80, under _Harman_, proceeded by a circuitous route, thinking to -surprise some in their cornfields, while _Moulton_, with 80 more, -proceeded directly for the village, which, being surrounded by trees, -could not be seen until they were close upon it. All were in their -wigwams, and the English advanced slowly and in perfect silence. When -pretty near, an Indian came out of his wigwam, and, accidentally -discovering the English, ran in and seized his gun, and giving the -warwhoop, in a few minutes the warriors were all in arms, and -advancing to meet them. _Moulton_ ordered his men not to fire until -the Indians had made the first discharge. This order was obeyed, and, -as he expected, they overshot the English, who then fired upon them in -their turn, and did great execution. When the Indians had given -another volley, they fled with great precipitation to the river, -whither the chief of their women and children had also fled during the -fight. Some of the English pursued and killed many of them in the -river, and others fell to pillaging and burning the village. _Mogg_, -their chief, disdained to fly with the rest, but kept possession of a -wigwam, from which he fired upon the pillagers. In one of his -discharges he killed a Mohawk, whose brother, observing it, rushed -upon and killed him; and thus ended the strife. There were about 60 -warriors in the place, about one half of whom were killed. - -"The famous _Rasle_ shut himself up in his house, from which he fired -upon the English; and, having wounded one, Lieutenant _Jaques_, of -Newbury, burst open the door, and shot him through the head, although -_Moulton_ had given orders that none should kill him. He had an English -boy with him, about 14 years old, who had been taken some time before -from the frontiers, and whom the English reported _Rasle_ was about to -kill. Great brutality and ferocity are chargeable to the English in this -affair, according to their own account; such as killing women and -children, and scalping and mangling the body of Father _Rasle_. - -"There was here a handsome church, with a bell, on which the English -committed a double sacrilege, first robbing it, then setting it on -fire; herein surpassing the act of the first English circumnavigator -in his depredations upon the Spaniards in South America; for he only -took away the gold and silver vessels of a church, and its crucifix, -because it was of massy gold, set about with diamonds, and that, too, -upon the advice of his chaplain. 'This might pass,' says a reverend -author, 'for sea divinity, but justice is quite another thing.' -Perhaps it will be as well not to inquire here what kind of _divinity_ -would authorize the acts recorded in these wars, or, indeed, any wars. - -"Upon this memorable event in our early annals, Father _Charlevoix_ -should be heard. There were not, says he, at the time the attack was -made, above 50 warriors at Neridgewok; these seized their arms, and -run in disorder, not to defend the place against an enemy who was -already in it, but to favour the flight of the women, the old men, and -the children, and to give them time to gain the side of the river, -which was not yet in possession of the English. Father RASLE, warned -by the clamours and tumult, and the danger in which he found his -proselytes, ran to present himself to the assailants, hoping to draw -all their fury upon him, that thereby he might prove the salvation of -his flock. His hope was vain; for hardly had he discovered himself, -when the English raised a great shout, which was followed by a shower -of shot, by which he fell dead near to the cross which he had erected -in the centre of the village: seven Indians who attended him, and who -endeavoured to shield him with their own bodies, fell dead at his -side. Thus died this charitable pastor, giving his life for his sheep, -after 37 years of painful labours. - -"Although the English shot near 2000 muskets, they killed but 30 and -wounded 40. They spared not the church, which, after they had -indignantly profaned its sacred vases and the adorable body of Jesus -Christ, they set on fire. They then retired with precipitation, having -been seized with a sudden panic. The Indians returned immediately into -the village; and their first care, while the women sought plants and -herbs proper to heal the wounded, was to shed tears upon the body of -their holy missionary. They found him pierced with a thousand shot, -his scalp taken off, his skull fractured with hatchets, his mouth and -eyes filled with dirt, the bones of his legs broken, and all his -members mutilated in a hundred different ways. - -"Such is the account of the fall of _Rasle_, by a brother of the -faith; a deplorable picture, by whomsoever related! Of the truth of -its main particulars there can be no doubt, as will be seen by a -comparison of the above translation with the account preceding it. -There were, besides _Mogg_, other chief Indians who fell that day: -'BOMAZEEN, MOGG, WISSEMEMET, JOB, CARABESETT, and BOMAZEEN'S -son-in-law, all famous warriors.' The inhumanity of the English on -this occasion, especially to the women and children, cannot be -excused. It greatly eclipses the lustre of the victory." _Drake's Book -of the Indians_, b. iii., c. 9.--FLAGG. - -_Comment by Ed._ Instead of the French and Indian War (1754-1763), -Flagg is doubtless referring to Queen Anne's War (1702-1713). - -A large amount of valuable but scattered documentary and secondary -information concerning this massacre and the causes leading to it may -be found under captions "Norridgewock" and "Rasle" in indexes to Maine -Historical Society _Collections_, and _Documents relative to Colonial -History of State of New York_ (Albany, 1854-61). See also William -Allen, _History of Norridgewock_ (Norridgewock, 1849). - -[42] _Prunus Americana._--FLAGG. - -[43] Indian Date, by the French called Placminier, _Diosporus -Virginiana_.--FLAGG. - -[44] _Morus Rubra_ and _Alba_.--FLAGG. - -[45] _Prunus Cerasus Virginia._--FLAGG. - -[46] Custard apple, _Annona glabra_.--FLAGG. - -[47] Breckenridge.--FLAGG. - -_Comment by Ed._ Henry Marie Brackenridge, _Views of Louisiana_, p. 60. - -[48] For a sketch of Prairie du Rocher, see A. Michaux's _Travels_, in -our volume iii, p. 70, note 133.--ED. - -[49] This tradition does not appear to have been noticed in the local -histories of the region.--ED. - - - - - XXXVIII - - "I have seen the walls of Balclutha, but they were desolate. The - thistle shook there its lonely head: the moss whistled to the - wind. The fox looked out from the windows; the rank grass of the - wall waved round his head."--OSSIAN. - - "We do love these ancient ruins: - We never tread upon them but we set - Our foot upon some reverend history." - -To those of the present day who are in some degree acquainted with the -extent of the vast Western Valley, it is not a little surprising to -observe how inadequate the conception with which, by its early -proprietors, it was regarded, and the singular measures which their -mistaken estimates originated. It is but within a very few years that -the extent and resources of this country have become sufficiently -developed to be at all appreciated. That the French government was -wholly unaware of its [CLXXXIII] true character in the cession of old -Louisiana to Mr. Jefferson in the early part of the present century, -and that our own people were at that time little less ignorant of the -same fact, need hardly be suggested to one acquainted with the -diplomatic negotiations of the day, or with the views and the feelings -of the respective powers then expressed. - -But there are few circumstances which more definitely betray the -exceedingly inadequate idea entertained by France respecting her -possessions in North America, than that early article of her policy, of -uniting her Canadian colonies, by a continuous chain of military posts, -with those upon the Gulf of Mexico. That any ministry should seriously -have entertained the idea of a line of fortifications _four thousand -miles_ in extent, through a waste, howling wilderness such as this -valley then was, and along the banks of streams such as the Ohio and -Mississippi yet continue to be; and that the design should not only have -been projected, but that measures should actually have been entered upon -for its accomplishment, seems, at the present day, almost incredible. -And yet, from the very discovery of the country, was this scheme -designed, and ever afterward was steadily pursued by the government of -France. La Salle, in his last visit to Paris, suggested the policy of a -_cordon_ of posts from the St. Lawrence to the Gulf of Mexico, and urged -the measure upon Colbert as affording a complete line of defence to the -French settlements against those of the English along the Atlantic -shore. In furtherance of this design, he sailed to establish a [CLXXXIV] -colony at the mouth of the Mississippi, in prosecution of which -expedition he lost his life. A line of fortifications was, however, -commenced, and gradually extended along the southern shore of Lake Erie: -one stood on the present site of the village of that name; another -between that point and the Ohio; a third on the present site of -Pittsburgh, named Du Quesne; a fourth at the mouth of the Kentucky -River; a fifth on the south bank of the Ohio below; a sixth on the -northern bank at the mouth of the Wabash; a seventh at the confluence -with the Mississippi; half a dozen others on the latter stream below the -junction, and several above upon its banks and along those of the -Illinois. Among these last, and the most extensive of the fortifications -then erected, was FORT CHARTRES, long the most celebrated military post -in North America, now a pile of ruins.[50] - -It was a beautiful afternoon, when, leaving the little French hamlet -_La Prairie du Rocher_, after a delightful ride of three or four miles -through rich groves of the persimmon, the wild apple, and the -Chickasaw plum,[51] I began to believe myself not far from the ruins -of this famous old fort. Accosting a French villager whom I chanced to -meet, I inquired the site of the ruins. He turned on me his glittering -dark eye for a moment, and, pointing away to the dense belt of forest -upon the left in a direct line with an enormous black-locust on the -right of the pathway, passed on. Not the slightest indication of the -object of my inquiry was to be [CLXXXV] seen; but deeming it fruitless -to attempt gathering farther information from the dark-browed -villager, who was now some distance on his way, I turned my horse's -head from the path, and, after labouring several rods through the -deep, heavy grass of the prairie, entered the wood. The dense -undergrowth of bushes and matted vines was undisturbed, and there was -not an indication of visiters at the spot for months. All seemed -deserted, and silent, and drear. The ruins were completely shrouded in -foliage, and gigantic trees were rearing their huge shafts from amid -the crumbling heaps of rubbish. Wild grape-vines and other parasites -were creeping in all directions over the trembling structures; or, -drooping forth in pensile gracefulness from the disjointed walls, -seemed striving to bind up the shattered fragments, and to conceal the -pitiless ravage of time. The effect of this noble old pile of -architecture, reposing thus in ruins, and shrouded in the cathedral -duskiness of the forest, was singularly solemn. - - "The trees, though summer, yet forlorn and lean, - O'ercome with moss and baleful mistletoe. - Here never shines the sun; here nothing breeds - Unless the nightly owl or fatal raven." - -Securing my horse to the trunk of a young sapling rearing up itself -beneath the walls, I at length succeeded, by dint of struggling -through the rough thickets and the enormous vegetation, in placing -myself at a point from which most of the ruins could be taken at a -_coup d'œil_. Some portions of the exterior wall are yet in good -preservation, and [CLXXXVI] the whole line of fortification may be -easily traced out; but all the structures within the quadrangle are -quite dilapidated, and trees of a large size are springing from the -ruins: an extensive powder-magazine, however, in a gorge of one of the -bastions, yet retains its original form and solidity. The western -angle of the fort and an entire bastion was, about fifty years since, -undermined and thrown down by a slough from the Mississippi; but the -channel is now changed, and is yearly receding, while a young belt of -trees has sprung up between the ruins and the water's edge. The -prairie in front of the fort was in cultivation not many years since, -and was celebrated for its blue grass. - -Fort Chartres was erected by the French in 1720, as a link in the -chain of posts which I have mentioned, uniting New-Orleans with -Quebec; and as a defence for the neighbouring villages against the -Spaniards, who were then taking possession of the country on the -opposite side of the Mississippi, as well as against the incursion of -hostile Indian tribes. The expense of its erection is said to have -been enormous, and it was considered the strongest fortification in -North America. The material was brought from the bluffs, some four or -five miles distant over the bottom by boats across a considerable -intervening sheet of water, and from the opposite side of the -Mississippi. In 1756 it was rebuilt; and in 1763, when France ceded -her possessions east of the Mississippi to England, the adjoining -village embraced about forty families, and a church dedicated to St. -Anne.[52] [CLXXXVII] When the English troops took possession of the -country, the villagers all removed to the hamlets across the river, -then under the French government, having been previously ceded, in the -treaty of St. Ildefonso, by Spain to France. The fort was not -evacuated, however, until July, 1765, when its commandant, _M. de St. -Ange de belle rive_, proceeded to St. Louis with his forces.[53] - -While Fort Chartres belonged to France, it was the seat of government -for all the neighbouring region; and in 1765, when taken possession of -by Captain Sterling, of the Royal Highlanders, it continued to retain -its arbitrary character. It was here that the first court of justice, -established by Lieutenant-colonel Wilkins, held its sessions.[54] Seven -judges were appointed, who came together monthly at the fortress; but -their decisions were very ill received by a people who, until then, had -been released from all but _arbitrary_ restriction.[55] - -The original form of Fort Chartres was an irregular quadrangle, with -four bastions; the sides of the exterior polygon being about five -hundred feet in extent. The ditch and scarp were commenced, but left -uncompleted. The walls, massively constructed of stone, and stuccoed -with lime, were upward of two feet in thickness and fifteen feet in -height. They still retain this altitude in some portions which are -uninjured; and many of the loopholes and the ports for cannon, in the -face of the wall and in the flanks of the bastions, are yet to be -seen entire. The elegantly dressed freestone, however, which -[CLXXXVIII] was employed about them, as well as for the cornices and -casements of the gate and buildings, has long since been removed. -Specimens are to be seen incorporated in some of the elegant -structures which have since gone up in the neighbouring city.[58] - -The military engineering of the early French fortifications in North -America was of the school of Vauban; and the massive structures then -erected are now monuments, not less of the skill of their founders -than of departed time. The almost indestructible character of their -masonry has long been a subject of surprise. The walls of Fort -Chartres, though half a century has seen them abandoned to the ravages -of the elements and of time, yet remain so imperishable, that in some -instances it is not easy to distinguish the limestone from the cement; -and the neighbouring villagers, in removing the materials for the -purposes of building, have found it almost impossible to separate them -one from the other. - -The buildings which occupied the square area of Fort Chartres were of -the same massive masonry as the walls. They consisted of a -commandant's and commissary's residence, both noble structures of -stone, and of equal size: two extensive lines of barracks, the -magazine of stores, with vaulted cellars, and the _corps de guarde_. -Within the gorges of the eastern bastions were the powder-magazine and -a bakehouse; in the western, a prison, with dungeons and some smaller -buildings. There were two sally-ports to the fortification in the -middle of opposite faces of the wall; and a broad avenue passed from -one to the other, directly through the square, [CLXXXIX] along the -sides of which were ranged the buildings. A small banquette a few feet -in height ran parallel to the loopholes, for the purpose of elevating -the troops when discharging musketry at an enemy without. - -Such was Fort Chartres in the pride of its early prime; the seat of -power, festivity, and taste; the gathering-spot of all the rank, and -beauty, and fashion the province could then boast. Many a time, -doubtless, have the walls of this stern old citadel rung to the note -of revelry; and the light, twinkling footstep of the dark-eyed creole -has beat in unison with a heart throbbing in fuller gush from the -presence of the young, martial figure at her side! Fort Chartres, in -its early years, was doubtless not more the headquarters of -arbitration and rule than of gentility and etiquette. The settlers of -the early French villages, though many of them indigent, were not all -of them rude and illiterate. Induced by anticipations of untold -wealth, such as had crowned the adventurers of Spain in the southern -section of the Western Continent, grants and charters of immense -tracts of territory in these remote regions had been made by the crown -of France to responsible individuals; and thus the leaders in these -golden enterprises were generally gentlemen of education and talent, -whose manners had been formed within the precincts of St. Cloud, then -the most elegant court in Europe. Many of these enthusiastic -adventurers, it is true, returned to France in disappointment and -disgust; and many of them removed to the more genial latitude of Lower -Louisiana: [CXC] yet a few, astonished at the fertility and extent of -a country of which they had never dreamed before; delighted with the -variety and delicacy of its fruits, and reminded by the mildness of -the climate of the sweetest portions of their own beautiful France, -preferred to remain. By the present degenerate race of villagers, -those early days are referred to as a "golden age" in their history, -and the "old residenters" as _wonderful_ beings. Consider the singular -situation of these men--a thousand miles from the Atlantic shores, -surrounded by savages and by their own countrymen scarce less -ignorant, and separated by pathless mountains from a community of -civilized man. The higher stations in the French army were at that -era, too, more than at present, occupied by men of genius and -information, while the Catholic priesthood was equally distinguished -for literary attainment. Under circumstances like these, was it other -than natural that reciprocity of feeling and congeniality of taste -should have sought their gratification by mutual and frequent -intercourse? Fort Chartres must, therefore, have been the seat of -hospitality, religious celebration, and kindly feeling. Here the -fleshy old _habitans_ of the neighbouring villages dozed away many an -hour of sober jovialness with their "droughty cronies" over the pipe -and the claret of their own vineyards; while their dark-haired -daughters tripped away on the green sward before them in the balmy -moonlit summer eve with the graceful officers of the fortress. - -Here, too, has been witnessed something of "the pride, and pomp, and -circumstance of glorious war." [CXCI] The _fleur-de-lis_ of the -Fifteenth Louis has rolled out its heavy folds above these stern old -towers; the crimson Lion of England has succeeded; and the stripes and -stars of our own republic have floated over both in triumph. The -morning gun of the fortress has boomed across the broad prairie, and -been reverberated from yonder cliffs: the merry reveille has rose upon -the early breeze, and wakened the slumbering echoes of the forest; and -the evening bugle from the walls has wailed its long-drawn, melancholy -note along those sunset waters of the _Eternal River_! - -Such, I repeat, was Fort Chartres in its better days, but such is Fort -Chartres no more. I lingered for hours with saddened interest around -the old ruins, until the long misty beams of the setting sun, -streaming through the forest, reminded me that I had not yet secured a -shelter for the coming night. Remounting my horse, I left the spot at -a brisk pace, and a ride of a few miles brought me to a dwelling -situated upon a mound somewhat elevated from the low, flat bottom-land -around, about one mile from the Mississippi, and commanding a view of -the distant lake and bluffs to the north. Here, then, I affix the name -by which is known all the surrounding region. - -_Fort Chartres, Ill._ - -FOOTNOTES: - -[50] For sketches of Forts Presqu' Isle (present site of Erie), -Machault (on Allegheny River), Duquesne (present site of Pittsburg), -Le Bœuf (near the present town of Waterford, Pennsylvania), St. Joseph -(Michigan), and Ouiatonon (on the Wabash), Detroit, and the fort on -the Maumee River, see Croghan's _Journals_, in our volume i, p. 101, -note 62; p. 102, note 64; p. 85, note 45; p. 102, note 65; p. 117, -note 85; p. 55, note 18; and p. 122, note 87, respectively. On Forts -Chartres (on the Mississippi) and Massac (on the Ohio), see A. -Michaux's _Travels_, in our volume iii, p. 71, note 136, and p. 73, -note 139, respectively. Fort Massac was the only one upon the Ohio. -Juchereau's post was erected (1702) at the confluence of the Ohio and -the Mississippi, but was soon abandoned.--ED. - -[51] _Prunus Angustifolia._--FLAGG. - -[52] Immediately after the erection of Fort Chartres (1720), a village -sprang up and the Jesuits established there the parish of Ste. Anne de -Fort Chartres. The earliest records of this parish now extant, bear -the date 1721.--ED. - -[53] Philip Pittman, who visited Fort Chartres in 1766, says in his -_Present State of the European Settlements on the Missisippi_ (London, -1770), p. 46, concerning Fort Chartres: "In the year 1764 there were -about forty families in the village near the fort, and a parish -church, served by a Franciscan friar, dedicated to St. Anne. In the -following year, when the English took possession of the country, they -abandoned their houses, except three or four poor families, and -settled at the villages on the west side of the Missisippi, chusing to -continue under the French government." - -In a personal letter dated November 3, 1762, Louis XV deeded to -Charles III of Spain all of the French territory in North America -lying to the west of Mississippi River; see Shepherd, "Cession of -Louisiana to Spain," in _Political Science Quarterly_, xix, pp. -439-458; also Thwaites, _France in America_ (New York, 1905), pp. -272-275. Napoleon coerced Charles IV to retrocede Louisiana to France, -by the secret treaty of St. Ildefonso, signed October 1, 1800. Three -years later (April 30, 1803), Napoleon sold Louisiana to the United -States for $15,000,000. - -Captain Louis St. Ange de Bellerive formally surrendered Fort Chartres -to Captain Sir Thomas Sterling on October 10 (not July), 1765, went to -St. Louis, and entering the Spanish service was placed in command of the -little garrison there, composed almost wholly of his French compatriots -who had removed thither from the Illinois. For a sketch of St. Ange, see -Croghan's _Journals_, in our volume i, p. 138, note 109.--ED. - -[54] Sir Thomas Sterling (1733-1808), commissioned captain of the 42nd -Highlanders (1757), served with his men in the conquest of Canada, and -the capture of Martinique (1759) and Havanna (1762). Having taken -command of Fort Chartres in October, 1765, he was relieved of this -unpleasant duty, December 4 of the same year, by Major Robert Farmer, -heading a detachment of British foot from Mobile. Sterling and his -regiment set sail from America (1767), but returned (1776) and served -with distinction at the storming of Fort Washington (1776) and of -Elizabethtown (1779). He was wounded at Springfield (Massachusetts) in -June, 1780. Promoted through the various ranks, he was made a royal -aide-de-camp of the king and in turn a colonel (February 19, 1779), -major-general (November 20, 1782), and general (January 1, 1801). He -became baronet of Andoch on his brother's death, July 26, 1799. -Several Illinois historians strangely persist in killing Sterling in -1765, shortly after he took command at Fort Chartres. See _Dictionary -of National Biography_; and _Documents relative to Colonial History of -New York_, vii, p. 786. - -Lieutenant-Colonel John Wilkins, appointed captain of the 55th foot -(1755) and then major (1762), commanded at Niagara. In 1763, while -marching to relieve Detroit, he was attacked by Indians and forced -after heavy losses to retreat to Fort Schlosser. Later, he made an -unsuccessful attempt by water, but was caught in a disastrous storm. -In August, 1764, Wilkins was promoted to the majorship of the 60th, -and in the following January was appointed lieutenant-colonel of the -18th Royal Irish with seven companies. In May, 1768, he was ordered -from Philadelphia to Fort Pitt, and thence to Fort Chartres. His -administration was unpopular, and grave charges--notably -misappropriation of land and funds--were brought against him. He was -suspended in 1771, set sail for Europe the following year, and either -died or left the army (1775). See _Historical Magazine_, viii, p. 260; -and _Documents relative to Colonial History of New York_, viii, p. -185.--ED. - -[55] Subjoined is a copy of the preliminary proceedings of the first -regular court of justice held in Illinois while under the British -government. It purports to be transcribed from the state records, and -first appeared in a Western newspaper. It lays before the reader a view -of the subject, which the most graphic description would fail to -present. - -"At a Court held at CHARTRES Village, in the Illinois, this sixth day -of November, in the eighth year of the reign of our Sovereign Lord, -George the Third, by the grace of God, of Great Britain, France, and -Ireland, King, Defender of the Faith, &c., &c., &c., in the year of -our Lord Christ one thousand seven hundred and sixty-eight, 1768. - -"Present, George Morgan, James Remsey, James Campbell, James M'Millar, -Jean Baptist Barbeau, and Peter Girardot, Esqrs., Justices. -Commissions of the peace granted by John Wilkins, Esqr., Governor and -Commandant of the said country, and directed to the gentlemen named, -were produced and read. - -"Whereupon the said Justices took the several _oaths_ of allegiance to -his Majesty's person and government, and also the oaths of Justices of -the peace; which oaths were administered to them by the Governor and -Commandant aforesaid. - -"A commission from the said Governor to Dennis M'Croghan, Esq., to be -Sheriff of the country aforesaid, was produced by the said Dennis -M'Croghan, Esq., and read, who took and subscribed the usual oaths of -allegiance to his Majesty's person and government, and also the oath -of sheriff for said country. - -"The Governor and Commandant aforesaid entered into a recognizance in -the sum of five hundred pounds lawful money of Great Britain for the -said Sheriff's due performance of his office." - -It would appear from the following deed, made by a _military -sergeant_, executing the office of sheriff under the style of Provost -under Commandant Hugh Lord, in 1772, that the government in Illinois -was then purely _military_. - -"Be it remembered that on this nineteenth day of December, in the year -of our Lord one thousand seven hundred and seventy-two, by virtue of a -writ unto me directed, I, Andrew Hoy, Provost, did seize, levy, and -distrain upon the dwelling-house and lot of John Baptist Hubardeau, -situated in the village of Kaskaskia, for a debt due as _per_ note of -hand, of the signature of the aforesaid Hubardeau, for the sum of two -thousand and forty _livres,_ with interest and _damages._ Now, know -ye, that the aforesaid writ of _Fieri Facias_ was issued by Hugh Lord, -Esq., Captain in his Majesty's 18th or Royal Regiment of Ireland, in -manner and form following: - - "George the Third, by the grace of God, of Great Britain, France, - and Ireland, King, Defender of the Faith, &c. - - "To Sergeant Hoy, Provost. - - "We command you that you cause to be made of the (goods) and - chattels of John Baptist Hubardeau, in your bailiwick, two - thousand and forty _livres,_ which Franks & Company, lately, in - our court, before us, at Kaskaskia, recovered against him by - virtue of a power of attorney, for a debt, with lawful interest, - and damages which they have sustained, occasioned as well by the - detaining of the said debt, as for their expenses and costs by - them laid out in and about their suit in that behalf, whereof the - said Hubardeau is convicted, and have you the money before us at - Kaskaskia as soon as the sale of said effects shall admit, to - render to the said Franks & Company their debt and damages - aforesaid, and have then there this writ. - - "Given at Fort Gage, this 19th day of December, 1772. - - "HUGH LORD, Commandant of Illinois. - - "ANDREW HOY, Provost. - - "Moreover, that in consequence of further orders from the - commandant aforesaid, I did give general notice of the sale - thereof by the following advertisement, which was publicly placed - for perusal and knowledge of the inhabitants in general, both here - and at the village of CAHO.[56] - - "PAR AUTORITE. - - "Vendredi, à onse heur du Matin le 29th du mois prochain, sera - vendu au porte de L'Eglise, la Maison et Terrain du Sieur Jean - Baptist Hubardeau, qui est puis en exêcution, payable en - Pèlletrie, Bon Argent, lettres de change, ou la bon esclaves, dans - le moi de Mai qui vient. - - "Au Kas,[57] Decembre 29 [19] th, 1772. - - "ANDREW HOY, Provost." - - Making allowances for bad French, the following is a translation - of this notice: - - "BY AUTHORITY. - - "Wednesday, at eleven o'clock in the morning of the 29th of next - month, I shall sell at the gate of the church, the House and lot - of Mr. Jean Baptist Hubardeau, which is taken in execution, - payable in peltry, good silver, bills of exchange, or in good - slaves, in the month of May coming. - - "Kaskaskia, Dec. 19th, 1772." - - "At the expiration of which time, the aforesaid house was, - agreeable to law, justice, and equity, exposed to sale, first at - the church gate, and afterwards at different parts of the village, - to prevent as much as possible, any persons pleading ignorance of - the sale thereof. Now, know ye, in discharge of the duty of my - office and the trust reposed, after having kept up the said house - and lot from the hours of ten to two at the sum of 3200 _livres_, - and no person bidding higher, or likely so to do, that the same - was struck off to James Remsey, inhabitant of Kaskaskia, who, by - these presents, is invested with full right and title thereto, to - have and to hold the said messuage and tenements, and all and - singular of the premises above mentioned and every part and parcel - thereof, with the appurtenances unto the said James Remsey, his - heirs and assigns forever: and I, the said Andrew Hoy, Provost, - from myself my heirs, the said messuage and tenement and premises - and every part thereof against him and his heirs, and against all - and every other person and persons whatever, to the said James - Remsey, his heirs and assigns shall and will warrant and forever - defend by these presents. In witness whereof I have hereunto set - my hand and seal. - - "ANDREW HOY, Provost. (L.S.) - - "Fort Gage, 29th Dec., 1772. - "Signed, sealed, and delivered in presence of - - "WILLIAM DUNBAR, - "ISAAC JOHNSON." - - "By virtue of the power and authority in me invested, I do hereby - grant unto Mr. James Remsey, late Lieut. of his Majesty's 34th - Regiment, a certain tract of land containing--acres in part from - the river Kaskaskia to the Mississippi, once the property of one - La Bacchou, whereon formerly did stand a water mill, the remains - of which are now to be seen. The whole being agreeable to his - Majesty's proclamation, confiscated to the King, and is hereby - given to said James Remsey, in consideration of His Excellency - Gen. Gage's recommendation and for the speedy settlement of his - majesty's colony, as likewise the frame of a house with a lot of - land thereunto appertaining, opposite the Jesuit's College in the - village of Kaskaskia. - - "Given under my hand, at Fort Chartres, Nov. 12th, 1767. - - "GORDON FORBES, - "Capt. 34th regiment." - -This grant of land where the _old mill_ stood, is now the site of a -speculative _city_ called "_Decoigne_," and is about five miles from -Kaskaskia on the road to St. Louis.--FLAGG. - -[56] Cahokia. - -[57] Kaskaskia. - -[58] Flagg's description agrees in the main with that given by Philip -Pittman (see _ante_, p. 77, note 53), save that the latter is more -detailed. Judging from the phraseology, Flagg must have read Pittman's -description.--ED. - - - - - XXXIX - - "I know not how the truth may be, - I tell the tale as told to me." - - "Pride, pomp, and circumstance of glorious war." - _Othello._ - - -Fort Chartres has already detained me longer than was my design. My -pen has been unconsciously led on from item to item, and from one -topic to another; and now, in leaving this celebrated fortress, I -cannot forbear alluding to a few incidents connected with its origin -and early history, which have casually presented themselves to my -notice. Selection is made from many of a similar character, which at -another time and in a different form may employ the writer's pen. The -conclusion of my last number attempted a description of the spot from -which it was dated; and, reader, a beautiful spot it was, beneath the -soft, gentle radiance of a summer evening. Not soon, I ween, shall I -forget the wild romance of that moonlit scene as I reclined upon the -gray old bench at the door of the farmhouse after the evening meal was -over, and listened to the singular events of which that region had -been the theatre in other days. More than forty years had seen mine -host a resident of the spot, and no one, with diligence more exemplary -[CXCIII] than his own, had gathered up the curious legends of the -place, many of them from aged men who had themselves been witnesses of -the events they chronicled. By these traditions, whatever may be our -inclination to yield them credence at this late period, the origin and -history of the fortification of Fort Chartres is by no means devoid of -interest. In 1720, when it was resolved on by the crown of France to -erect a fortress at this point upon the Mississippi, in continuation -of her line of posts uniting Quebec with New-Orleans, and for the -defence of her colonies, a military engineer of the school of the -celebrated Sebastian Vauban was sent over to project and accomplish -the design.[59] To his own discretion, within prescribed limits--so -goes the story--was confided the whole undertaking. Far and wide -throughout the province resounded the note of preparation. The -peaceful villager was summoned from his pipe and his plough; the din -of steel and stone broke in upon the solitudes; and at length, at the -enormous expenditure of nine millions of livres, arose Fort Chartres; -and its battlements frowned over the forests and cast their shadows -along the waters of the _Eternal River_! The work was completed, and -fondly believed its architect that he had reared for his memory a -monument for the generations of coming time. A powerful battery of -iron ordnance protruded from the ports, and every department of the -fortress was supplied with the most extensive munitions of war. A -large number of cannon for many years were laying beneath the walls of -the fort, in the early part [CXCIV] of the present century, buried in -matted vines and underbrush. The fortress was completed, and the -_silver lilies_ floated over the walls; but the engineer had far -exceeded the limits prescribed in erecting a work of such massive and -needless strength, and a missive royal summoned him to St. Cloud. The -miserable man, aware that little was to be hoped from the clemency of -the warlike Louis XV., poisoned himself upon arriving in his native -land, to escape the indignation of his sovereign. Previously, however, -to his departure for France, immense sums in gold for defraying the -expenses of the fortress had been forwarded him to New Orleans and -sent up the river, but, owing to his subsequent arrest, were never -distributed to the labourers. Tradition averreth these vast treasures -to have been buried beneath the foundations of the fort. However the -truth may be, the number of those who have believed and searched has -not been inconsiderable: but unhappily, as is ever the case with these -"hidden treasures," the light has gone out just at the critical -moment, or some luckless wight, in his zeal, has thought proper to -_speak_ just as the barrel of money has been struck by the mattock, or -some other untoward event has occurred to dissolve the charm of the -witch-hazel, and to stir up the wrath of those notable spirits which -are always known to stand guard over buried gold! And thus has it -happened that the treasure yet reposes in primeval peace; and the big -family Bible, always conveyed to the spot on such inquisitorial -occasions, has alone prevented consequences most [CXCV] fatal! Whether -the good people of the vicinity in the present unbelieving generation -have faith to dig, I know not; but, when I visited the spot, the earth -of the powder-magazine to which I have alluded exhibited marvellous -indication of having been disturbed at no distant period previous. So -much for the origin of Fort Chartres. The story _may_ be true, it may -_not_. At all events, it will be remembered I do not endorse it. - -There is also a tradition yet extant of a stratagem of war by which Fort -Chartres was once captured, worthy the genius of Fabius Maximus, and -partaking, moreover, somewhat of history in character. The name of -George Rogers Clarke is familiar to every one who can claim even -indifferent acquaintance with the early border warfare of the West. This -extraordinary man, having satisfied himself, like Hannibal of Carthage, -that the only way decisively to conquer a crafty and powerful foe was by -carrying the war to his own altars and hearths, placed himself at the -head of a few hundred of the Virginia militia in 1778, and set forth -upon one of the most daring enterprises ever chronicled on the page of -military history--the celebrated expedition against the distant post of -Fort Vincent, now Vincennes. Our country was then at war with Great -Britain, and this fort, together with those upon the lakes and the -Mississippi, were in possession of the enemy and their savage allies. -Colonel Clarke crossed the mountains with his little band; descended the -Monongahela and the Ohio to within sixty miles of the mouth of [CXCVI] -the latter, and there concealing his boats, he plunged with his -followers through swamps, and creeks, and marshes almost impassable, a -distance of one hundred and thirty miles, and in a space of time -incredibly short, arrived at night opposite the village of Kaskaskia. So -overwhelming was the surprise, that the town, though fortified, was -taken without a blow. History goes on to tell us that a detachment of -troops, mounted on the horses of the country, was immediately pushed -forward to surprise the villages of Fort Chartres and Cahokia, higher up -the Mississippi; and that they were all taken without resistance, and -the British power in that quarter completely destroyed.[60] So much for -History, now for Tradition. When the little band arrived beneath the -walls of Fort Chartres, the numbers of the garrison far exceeding those -of the besiegers, the latter, as if in despair of success, shortly took -up the line of march and disappeared behind the distant bluffs. Days -passed on; diligent examination of the heights was kept up with glasses -from the walls, but no enemy returned. At length, when apprehension had -begun to die away, early one morning a troop of cavalry appeared winding -over the bluffs, their arms glittering in the sunlight, and descended -from view apparently into the plain beneath. Hour after hour the march -continued; troop after troop, battalion upon battalion, regiment after -regiment, with their various ensigns and habiliments of warfare, -appeared in lengthened files, wound over the bluffs, and disappeared. -Alarmed [CXCVII] and astonished at the countless swarms of the invaders, -the garrison hastily evacuated the fortress, and for dear life and -liberty, soon placed the broad Mississippi between themselves and the -cloud of locusts! Hardly was this precipitate manœuvre well -accomplished, when the alarum of drum and fife was heard, and the -identical force which but a few days before had raised the siege, and in -despair had retreated from beneath the walls, now paraded through the -open sally-ports, their rags and tatters fluttering by way of "pomp and -circumstance" in the evening breeze. This fortunate _ruse du guerre_ had -been accomplished through the favourable nature of the ground, a few -extra stand of colours manufactured for the occasion, and a variety of -uniforms and arms of like character. After winding over the bluffs into -the plain beneath, they again ascended through a defile unobserved by -the garrison, and once more appeared in different guise and order in -rear of their comrades. "Distance," too, cast doubtless not a little -"enchantment" over "the view;" and then the fear and trepidation of the -worthy garrison probably sharpened their optics to detect all the peril -in store for them, and, perchance, somewhat more. Now, reader, you can -do as you choose touching belief of all this. And while you are making -up a decision on the point, permit me to furnish yet another scrap of -_History_, which may, peradventure, assist. - -For sixteen days was Col. Clarke employed in his march from Kaskaskia to -Vincennes, after the [CXCVIII] capture of the military posts upon the -Mississippi. At length, after toils incredible, he reached the Wabash. -High upon the eastern bank, its base swept by the rolling flood, stood -Fort Vincent, the British fortress, at that period garrisoned by a -superior corps of soldiery, with an auxiliary force of six hundred -Indian warriors, and under the command of a skilful officer, Gov. -Hamilton. On the western bank was spread out a broad sheet of alluvion -five miles in breadth, completely inundated by the swollen stream. After -five days of toil this wilderness of waters was passed; the rolling -current of the Wabash was crossed in the night, and the morning sun -beheld these daring men before Vincennes. As they approached the -town--history goes on to relate--over the broad and beautiful prairie -upon which it stands, at the moment his troops were discovered by the -enemy, Clarke found himself near a small ancient mound, which concealed -part of his force from the foe. Under this covert he countermarched his -men in so skilful a manner, that the leading files, which had been seen -from the town, were transferred undiscovered to the rear, and made to -pass again and again in sight of the enemy, until his whole force had -several times been displayed, and his little detachment of jaded troops -assumed the appearance of an extended column greatly superior to its -actual strength. The garrison was promptly summoned to surrender, and, -after a brief defence, Gov. Hamilton struck his flag to a body of men -not half as powerful as his own.[61] - -[CXCIX] Next in importance to Fort Chartres, of that chain of military -posts commenced by the French in the Valley of the Mississippi, was -FORT DU QUESNE;[62] and of this celebrated fortress, so notorious in -the bloody annals of border warfare, it may not be irrelevant, in -concluding the present subject, to add a few sentences. This post was -erected on that low tongue of land, at the head of the Ohio and -confluence of the Alleghany and Monongahela rivers, where Pittsburgh -now stands, commanded on all sides by lofty bluffs. It was built by M. -de la Jonquier, at command of the Marquis du Quesne, governor of -Canada. In 1754 the bold Contrecœur came down the Alleghany, with a -thousand Frenchmen in canoes, and eighteen pieces of artillery; and, -dispersing the small colonial force, intrenched himself upon the spot. -This was the prologue to that bloody drama, the catastrophe of which -deprived France of all her possessions east of the Mississippi. In -1758 Fort du Quesne was taken by Gen. Forbes; a more scientific and -extensive fortress was erected on the spot, at an expense of sixty -thousand pounds sterling, and, in honour of William Pitt, then -Premier of England, named Fort Pitt. It is difficult to conceive what -could have been the design of these commanders in erecting such a -massive fortress on such a spot, unless to impress the minds of their -savage but simple neighbours; for resistance to artillery planted upon -the neighbouring heights would have been quite as vain as any attack -of the Indians upon its walls with their primitive weapons. The same -may be said of [CC] nearly all the early fortifications in the West, -and of some of more modern date upon our frontier. Subsequently Fort -Pitt came into the possession of our government as part of the estate -of the Penn family, and is now only a heap of rubbish. Thus much for -early military posts in the Valley of the Mississippi. - -So deeply interested was I in listening to the "legendary lore" -associated with the spot upon which I was sitting, that hours glided -unobserved away, and the full moon was culminating in cloudless -splendour from the zenith when we retired. - -Early the following morning I was in the saddle. The heavy night-mists -lay wavering, like a silvery mantle, all over the surface of that -broad plain; and the crimson clouds, rolling up the eastern sky, -proclaimed the rising sun. After a short ride I reached the former -site of St. Philippe, a settlement of the French, since called _Little -Village_. Its "common field" is now comprised in the single plantation -of Mr. M'David. It was at this point that Philippe Francis -Renault--from whom the village received its name, as well as a large -section of the neighbouring region, known to this day as "Renault's -Tract"--established himself in 1719, with two hundred miners from -France, in anticipation of discovering gold and silver.[63] He was -disappointed; but is said to have obtained large quantities of lead -from the region along the opposite bank of the Mississippi, in the -vicinity of Ste. Genevieve; and to have discovered, moreover, a copper -mine near Peoria. St. Philippe was once a considerable village. -Previous to 1765--when possession of the country was claimed [CCI] by -the English government, and, like the other French settlements, it was -abandoned by the villagers--it is said to have comprised twenty or -thirty families, a Catholic church, and a water-mill; while the -surrounding meadow afforded pasturage for extensive herds of cattle. - -Leaving St. Philippe, the winding pathway in a few miles had conducted -me into the depths of a forest of gigantic cotton-trees upon the left, -encircled by enormous grape-vines, and the ground beneath entangled by -a wilderness of underbrush and thickets of wild fruit. In a few -moments the forest opened unexpectedly before me, and at my feet -rolled on the turbid floods of the Mississippi, beyond which went up -the towering cliffs of limestone, hoar and ragged, to the sheer height -of some hundred feet from the water's edge. They were the cliffs of -Herculaneum, with their shot-towers.[64] For the first time I -discovered that I had mistaken my way. Perceiving the low log-cabin of -a woodcutter among the trees, I had soon obtained the requisite -information, and was retracing my steps; but a weary plod through the -deep black loam, and the tall grass weltering in the night-dews, and -the thickets of the dripping meadows, was anything but agreeable. -There were but few farms along my route, and the tenants of those with -whom I chanced to meet betrayed too plainly, by their ghastly visages, -and their withered, ague-racked limbs, the deadly influences of the -atmosphere they inhaled. As I wandered through this region, where -vegetation, towering in all its rank [CCII] and monstrous forms, gave -evidence of a soil too unnaturally fertile for culture by man, whose -bread must be bought by "the sweat of his brow," I thought I could -perceive a deadly nausea stealing over my frame, and that every -respiration was a draught of the floating pestilence. I urged onward -my horse, as if by flight to leave behind me the fatal contagion which -seemed hovering on every side; as if to burst through the poisonous -vapours which seemed distilling from every giant upas along my path. -That this region should be subject to disease and death is a -circumstance by no means singular. Indeed, it seems only unaccountable -to the traveller that it may be inhabited at all. A soil of such -astonishing depth and fertility, veiled from the purifying influences -of the sun by the rank luxuriance of its vegetation, in the stifling -sultriness of midsummer sends forth vast quantities of mephitic vapour -fatal to life; while the decay of the enormous vegetables poisons the -atmosphere with putrid exhalations. Cultivation and settlement will, -of course, as in the older states, remedy this evil to some extent in -time. It is said that the southern border of a lake in this region is -less unhealthy than the northern, on account of the prevalence of -winds from the former quarter during the summer months; and that the -immediate margin of a river, though buried in vegetation, is less -liable to disease than the neighbouring bluffs, upon which hang the -night and morning vapours. A dry and somewhat elevated spot is -preferable to either for a cabin; and it should be well ventilated, -and never closely surrounded by [CCIII] cornfields. The rank and -massive foliage shields the earth from the sunbeams, which exhale its -poisonous damps; and in its rapid growth, the plant abstracts from the -surrounding atmosphere one of its vital ingredients. Indeed, most of -the diseases peculiar to the West are superinduced by imprudence, -ignorance, or negligence in nursing. Let the recent emigrant avoid the -chill, heavy night-dews and the sickening sultriness of the noontide -sun; provide a close dwelling, well situated and ventilated, and -invariably wear thicker clothing at night than in the day, and he may -live on as long and as healthily in the West as in his native village. -Bilious intermittents are the most prevalent and fatal diseases in the -sickly months of August, September, and October; and in the winter and -spring pleurisies are frequent. The genuine phthisic, or pulmonary -consumption of New-England, is rarely met. A mysterious disease, -called the "_milk_ sickness"--because it was supposed to be -communicated by that liquid--was once alarmingly prevalent in certain -isolated districts of Illinois.[65] Whole villages were depopulated; -and though the mystery was often and thoroughly investigated, the -cause of the disease was never discovered. By some it was ascribed to -the milk or to the flesh of cows feeding upon a certain unknown -poisonous plant, found only in certain districts; by others, to -certain springs of water, or to the exhalations of certain marshes. -The mystery attending its operations and its terrible fatality at one -period created a perfect panic in the settlers; nor was this at all -wonderful. The disease appears [CCIV] now to be vanishing. But, of all -other epidemics, the "fever and ague" is the scourge of the West. Not -that it often terminates fatally, except by superinducing a species of -consumption; but, when severe and protracted, it completely shatters -the constitution; and, like Mezentius, the victim ever after bears -about him a living death. In its lighter form, most of the settlers at -some time or other experience it, as it is brought on by exposure: and -when I consider that, during my ramble in the West, I have subjected -myself to every variety of climate and circumstance; have been -drenched by night-dews and morning-dews; by the vapours of marshes and -forests, and by the torrents of summer showers; have wandered day -after day over the endless prairies beneath a scorching sun, and at -its close have laid myself anywhere or nowhere to rest; when I -consider this, I cannot but wonder at the escape of a constitution -naturally feeble from complete prostration. Yet never was it more -vigorous than during this tour on the prairies. - -At length, after a ride which seemed interminable, I found myself at -the foot of the bluffs; and, drawing up my horse, applied at a cabin -attached to an extensive farm for refreshment. A farmer of -respectable garb and mien came tottering towards the gateway; and, to -my request, informed me that every individual of his family was ill of -the "fever and ague." I inquired for the state of his own health, -remarking his _shattered_ appearance. "Yes, I am shattered," he -replied, leaning heavily against the rails for support; "the agues and -fevers have terribly [CCV] racked me; but I am better, I am _better_ -now." Ah, thought I, as, returning his kind good-morning, I resumed my -route, you think, poor man, that health will revisit your shattered -frame; but that pallidness of brow, and those sunken temples, tell me -that you must die. Consumption's funeral fires were already kindling -up in the depths of his piercing eye. At the next cabin, where I was -so fortunate as to succeed in obtaining refreshment, I was informed -that the poor fellow was in the last stages of a decline brought on by -undue exposure to the chill, poisonous night-dews of the bottom. The -individual from whom this information was received was himself far -from enjoying uninterrupted health, though thirty-five years had seen -him a tenant of the spot upon which I met him. - -_Monroe County, Ill._ - -FOOTNOTES: - -[59] Relative to Fort Chartres, see _ante_, p. 75, note 50.--ED. - -[60] Hall.--FLAGG. - -_Comment by Ed._ Flagg's authority is James Hall, _Sketches of -History, Life, and Manners in the West_ (Philadelphia, 1835). - -Owing to the encroachments by the Mississippi, Fort Chartres was -abandoned in 1772, and was never again used as a garrison. The legend -given by Flagg is somewhat exaggerated. The French settlements -adjacent to Kaskaskia readily accepted the situation on being invited -by Clark's representatives, who were accompanied by Kaskaskians as -friendly interpreters. - -[61] Hall.--FLAGG. - -_Comment by Ed._ Compare with R. G. Thwaites, _How George Rogers Clark -won the Northwest_, pp. 52-62. - -[62] A fort was begun by Charles Trent, with a few Virginia troops, in -February, 1754. On April 17, Contrecœur took the place, completed the -fort, and named it Duquesne in honor of the then governor of New France. -See Croghan's _Journals_, in our volume i, p. 85, note 45; also F. A. -Michaux's _Travels_, in our volume iii, p. 156, note 20.--ED. - -[63] Renault sailed from France in 1719, but did not reach Illinois -until 1721. For a short sketch of Renault, see _ante_, p. 42, note 18. - -St. Philippe, five miles from Fort Chartres on the road to Cahokia, was -founded about 1725 by Renault, on a tract granted to him in 1723. Philip -Pittman, who visited the place in 1766, wrote that there were about -sixteen houses and a small church left standing, although all the -inhabitants save the captain of the militia had crossed the Mississippi -the preceding year. In 1803, John Everett was the sole inhabitant.--ED. - -[64] For location and settlement of Herculaneum, see Maximilian's -_Travels_, in our volume xxii, p. 212, note 122; for the shot-towers -there, see our volume xxvi, p. 103, note 66.--ED. - -[65] Milk-sickness, no longer so diagnosed by medical authorities, is -described by early writers in the Middle West as a malignant disease -attacking both men and stock. It was supposed that the disease was -contracted by eating the flesh or dairy products of animals that had -grazed on a certain weed. In the case of the human being the symptoms -were intolerable thirst, absolute constipation, low temperature, an -extreme nervous agitation, but with an absence of chills and -headaches. Recovery seemed to be the exception. Although no specific -remedy was used, the best results were thought to be obtained by -judicious stimulation and careful nursing. The same disease among -stock was usually known as "trembles." The symptoms were the same as -with men, and death followed, generally within eight or ten days. A -farm where this dreaded disease had come was called a "milk-sick -farm," and was rendered almost unsalable. For a later and more -detailed account, see Thomas L. M'Kenney, _Memoirs, official and -personal, with Sketches of Travels among the Northern and Southern -Indians_, etc. (New York, 1846), p. 141. Dr. William M. Beach, a -pioneer physician in Ohio, who had had much experience with milk -sickness, wrote an article for Albert H. Buck, _Reference Handbook of -Medical Science_ (New York, 1884-87), volume v. An abstract of the -above article by Beach is given in the edition for 1902.--ED. - - - - - XL - - "'Tis many moons ago--a long--long time." - R. H. WILDE. - - "Rich, silent, deep, they stand; for not a gale - Rolls its light billows o'er the bending plain: - A calm of plenty! till the ruffled air - Falls from its poise, and gives the breeze to blow." - _The Seasons._ - - -In the course of my journeying in the regions of the "FAR WEST," it -has more than once chanced to me to encounter individuals of that -singular class commonly termed "Squatters;" those sturdy pioneers who -formed the earliest American settlements along our western frontier. -And, in my casual intercourse with them, I have remarked, with not a -little surprise, a decision of character, an acuteness of penetration, -and a depth and originality of thought betrayed in their observations, -strangely enough contrasting with the rude solitude of their life. For -more than half a century, mayhap, Nature - - "Had been to them a more familiar face - Than that of man;" - -and whether, in the present exhibition of intellectual energy, we are -to claim an argument for the influence of natural scenery upon -character, or may find a corroboration of the theory of diversity of -mental ability; or to whatever circumstance it may be attributed, -[CCVII] very assuredly it owes not its origin to the improvements of -education or the advantages of society. There is also remarked in -these rude men a susceptibility and refinement of feeling, and a -delicacy of sentiment, which one would suppose hardly compatible with -a protracted continuance of their semi-savage life. - -It was at the frugal, though well-spread board of an individual of -this class that I was pleased to find myself seated, after my tedious -morning ramble of several hours through the weltering vegetation of -the prairie. Mine host was a man of apparently forty, though in -reality some eight or ten years in advance of that age: his form, of -medium stature, was symmetrical, erect, and closely knit, betraying -considerable capability of endurance, though but little of muscular -strength: his countenance, at first sight, was by no means -prepossessing; indeed, the features, while in repose, presented an -aspect harsh--almost forbidding; but, when lighted up by animation, -there was discoverable in their rapid play a mildness which well -compared with the benevolent expression of a soft blue eye. Such was -the _physique_ of my backwoods pioneer, who for forty years had been a -wanderer on the outskirts of civilization, and had at length been -overtaken by its rapid march. - -As I had before me but an easy ride for the day, I proposed to mine -host, when our repast was over, that he should accompany me to the -summit of the range of bluffs which rose behind his cabin, towering to -the height of several hundred feet above the roof. To this he readily -assented, and well did [CCVIII] the magnificent view commanded from -the top compensate for the toil of the ascent. The scene was grand. -"Yonder," said my companion, seating himself on the earth at my side, -and stretching out his arm to the southeast, "yonder lies the village -of old Kaskaskia, with the bluffs of the river beyond, rising against -the sky; while a little to the left you catch the white cliffs of -Prairie du Rocher. In that heavy timber to the south are the ruins of -Fort Chartres, and to the right, across the lake, fifty years ago -stood St. Philippe. The Mississippi is concealed from us, but its -windings can be traced by the irregular strip of forest which skirts -its margin. Beyond the stream, stretching away to the northwest, the -range of heights you view are the celebrated _cornice-cliffs_[66] -above Herculaneum; and at intervals you catch a glimpse of a -shot-tower, resting like a cloud against the sky, upon the tallest -pinnacles. The plain at our feet, which is now sprinkled with -cornfields, was once the site of an Indian village. Forty years ago, -the ruins of the wigwams and the dancing circle surrounding the -war-post could be distinctly traced out: and even now my ploughshare -every spring turns up articles of pottery which constituted their -domestic utensils, together with axes and mallets of stone, spear and -arrow heads and knives of flint, and all their rude instruments of -war. Often of a fine evening," continued my companion, after a pause, -"when my work for the day is over, and the sun is going down [CCIX] in -the west, I climb up to this spot and look out over this grand -prospect; and it almost makes me sad to think how the tribes that once -possessed this beautiful region have faded away. Nearly forty years -ago, when I came with my father from old Virginia, this whole state, -with its prairies, and forests, and rich bottoms, was the -hunting-ground of the Indians. On this spot we built our cabin; and -though I have since lived far off on the outskirts of the Missouri -frontier, I always had an affection for this old bottom and these -bluffs, and have come back to spend here the rest of my days. But the -Indians are gone. The round top of every bluff in yonder range is the -grave of an Indian chief." - -While my singular companion was making these observations, somewhat in -the language I have attempted to give, interrupted from time to time -by my inquiries, I had myself been abstractedly employed in thrusting -a knife which was in my hand into the yielding mould of the mound upon -which we sat, when, suddenly, the blade, striking upon a substance -somewhat harder than the soil, snapped into fragments. Hastily -scraping away the loose mould to the depth of some inches, the _femur_ -of a human skeleton protruding from the soil was disinterred, and, in -a few minutes, with the aid of my companion, the remnants of an entire -skeleton were laid bare. Compared with our own limbs, the bones seemed -of a size almost gigantic; and from this circumstance, if from no -other, it was evident that our melancholy moralizing upon the -destinies of the Indians had been indulged upon a very fitting -spot--[CCX] the grave of one of its chieftains. Originally, the body -had no doubt been covered to the depth of many feet, and the -shallowness of soil at the present time indicates a lapse of -centuries. Still these graves of the bluffs, which doubtless belonged -to the ancestors of the present aborigines, will neither be confounded -nor compared with the gigantic earth-heaps of the prairies. Strangely -enough, this _has_ been the case, though a moment's reflection must -convince one that they are the monuments of a far later race. - -Descending the bluffs by an ancient path in a ravine, _said_ to have -been made in conveying oak timber to Fort Chartres at the period of its -erection, my host conducted me into one of the enclosures of his farm, a -spot which had evidently once been the ordinary burial-place of the -ancient Indian village. Graves, sufficient, apparently, for hundreds of -individuals, were yet to be seen upon every side. They were arranged -parallel to each other in uniform ranges, and were each formed by a -rough slab of limestone upon either side, and two at the extremities, -terminating in an obtuse angle. From several of these old sepulchres we -threw out the sand, and, at the depth of about four feet, exhumed -fragments of human remains in various stages of preservation, deposited -upon a broad slab of limestone at the bottom. When taken together, these -slabs form a complete coffin of stone, in which the body originally -reposed; and this arrangement, with the silicious nature of the soil, -has probably preserved the remains a longer period than would otherwise -have been the case. But the circumstance respecting [CCXI] these ancient -graves which chiefly excited my astonishment was their marvellous -littleness, none of them exceeding a length of four feet; and the -wondrous tales of a "pigmy race of aborigines" once inhabiting the West, -which I had often listened to, recurred with considerable force to my -memory. Resolved to decide this long-mooted question to my own -satisfaction, if possible, the earth from one of the graves, the most -perfect to be found, was excavated with care, and upon the bottom were -discovered the _femur_ and _tibia_ of a skeleton in a state of tolerable -preservation, being parallel to each other and in immediate proximity. -Proof incontestible, this, that the remains were those of no Lilliputian -race four feet in stature, and affording a fair presumption that the -limbs were forcibly bent in this position at the time of burial, -occupying their stone coffin much as the subject for scientific -dissection occupies a beef-barrel. In this manner may we satisfactorily -account for the ancient "pigmy cemetery" near the town of Fenton, on the -Merrimack in Missouri, as well as that on the _Rivière des Pères_, in -the same vicinity, already referred to, and those reported to exist in -various other sections of the West, in which, owing to the dampness of -the soil, the remains have been long resolved to dust, and only the -dimensions of the grave have remained.[67] - -Among the articles which my host had procured from these old graves, and -deemed worthy of preservation, was a singular species of pottery, -composed, as appeared from its fracture, of shells calcined and -pulverized, mixed with an equal quantity [CCXII] of clay, and baked in -the sun. The clay is of that fine quality with which the waters of the -Missouri are charged. The vessels are found moulded into a variety of -forms and sizes, capable of containing from a quart to a gallon.[68] One -of these, which my host insisted upon hanging upon the bow of my -Spanish saddle as I mounted, was fashioned in the shape of a _turtle,_ -with the form and features very accurately marked. The handle of the -vessel, which was broken off, once formed a tapering tail to the animal, -presenting a _rare_ specimen of a turtle with that elegant appendage. - -Ascending the bluffs by a tortuous though toilsome pathway through -the ravines, my route for some miles wound away through a sparse -growth of oaks, and over a region which seemed completely excavated -into _sink-holes_. Some of these tunnel-shaped hollows were several -hundred feet in diameter, and of frightful depth, though of regular -outline, as if formed by the whirl of waters subsiding to the level of -the plain beneath. They were hundreds in number, yet each was as -uniformly circular as if excavated by scientific skill. I have met -with none so regular in outline, though I have seen many in the course -of my journeyings. - -The puissant little village of Waterloo furnished me a very excellent -dinner, at a very excellent tavern. The town appeared, from a hasty view -in passing through its streets, remarkable for nothing so much as for -the warlike _soubriquet_ attached to it, if we except a huge _windmill_, -which, [CCXIII] like a living thing, flings abroad its gigantic arms, -and flaunts its ungainly pinions in the midst thereof. The place, -moreover, can boast a courthouse, indicative of its judicial character -as seat of justice for the county of Monroe; and, withal, is rather -pleasantly located than otherwise. About five miles north of the village -is situated a large spring, and a settlement called Bellefontaine. This -spot is celebrated as the scene of some of the bloodiest atrocities of -the Kickapoo Indians and predatory bands of other tribes some fifty -years since. Many of the settlers were killed, and others carried into a -captivity scarce to be preferred.[69] - -An evening ride of a dozen miles, interesting for nothing but a -drenching shower, succeeded by a glare of scorching sunshine, which, -for a time, threatened perfect fusion to the traveller, or, more -properly, an unconditional resolution into fluidity; such an evening -ride, under circumstances aforesaid, brought me at sunset to the town -of Columbia, a place, as its name denotes, redolent of patriotism.[70] -"Hail Columbia!" was the exhilarated expression of my feelings, if not -of my lips, as I strode across the threshold of a log-cabin, the -appurtenance of a certain worthy man with one leg and the moiety of -another, who united in his calling the professions of cobbler and -publican, as intimated by the sign-board over his door. Hail Columbia! -All that it is possible to record touching this patriotic village -seems to be that it adds one more to the five hundred previous -villages of the selfsame appellation scattered over the land, whose -chief [CCXIV] consequence, like that of a Spanish grandee, is -concentrated and consists in a title. Every county of almost every -state of the Union, it is verily believed, can boast a Columbia. -Indeed, the name of the Genoese seems in a fair way of being honoured -as much as is that of George Washington; a distinction we are sure to -find bestowed upon every bullet-pated, tow-haired little rascal, who, -knowing not who his father was, can claim no patronymic less general, -having been smuggled into the world nobody can tell when or how: -George Washington, "_Father_ of his _country_," indeed, if the -perpetration of a very poor pun on a venerated name may be pardoned. - -The earliest peep of dawn lighted me into the saddle; for, with the -unhappy Clarence, _feelingly_ could I ejaculate, - - "Oh, I have pass'd a miserable night!" - -In sober sadness, sleep, gentle sleep, had visited not my eyes, nor -slumber mine eyelids; though, with the faith of a saint and the -perseverance of a martyr, I had alternated from _bed_ to board and -from _board_ to bed. And throughout that livelong night, be it -recorded, even until the morning dawned, did a concert of -whippoorwills and catydids keep up their infernal oratorio, seemingly -for no other reason than for my own especial torment; until, sinner as -I am, I could not but believe myself assoilzed of half the -peccadilloes of a foregone life. Happy enough to find myself once more -in the saddle, the morning breeze, as I cantered through the forest, -fanned [CCXV] freshly a brow fevered by sleeplessness and vexation. -The early beams of the day-god were flinging themselves in lengthened -masses far athwart the plains at my feet as I stood upon the bluffs. -Descending, I was once more upon the AMERICAN BOTTOM.[71] This name, -as already stated, was a distinction appropriated to that celebrated -tract so long since as when it constituted the extreme limit in this -direction of the Northwestern Territory. Extending northwardly from -the embouchure of the Kaskaskia to the confluence of the great rivers, -a distance of about one hundred miles, and embracing three hundred -thousand acres of land, of fertility unrivalled, it presents, perhaps, -second only to the Delta of Egypt, the most remarkable tract of -country known. Its breadth varies from three miles to seven. Upon one -side it is bounded by a heavy strip of forest a mile or two deep, -skirting the Mississippi; and upon the other by an extended range of -bluffs, now rising from the plain in a mural escarpment of several -hundred feet, as at the village of Prairie du Rocher, and again, as -opposite St. Louis, swelling gracefully away into rounded sand-heaps, -surmounted by Indian graves. At the base of the latter are exhaustless -beds of bituminous coal, lying between parallel strata of -limestone.[72] The area between the timber-belt and the bluffs is -comprised in one extended meadow, heaving in alternate waves like the -ocean after a storm, and interspersed with island-groves, sloughs, -bayous, lagoons, and shallow lakes. These expansions of water are -numerous, and owe their origin [CCXVI] to that geological feature -invariable to the Western rivers--the superior elevation of the -immediate bank of the stream to that of the interior plain. The -subsidence of the spring-floods is thus precluded; and, as the season -advances, some of the ponds, which are more shallow, become entirely -dry by evaporation, while others, converted into marshes, stagnate, -and exhale _malaria_ exceedingly deleterious to health. The poisonous -night-dews caused by these marshes, and the miasm of their decomposing -and putrefying vegetation, occasion, with the sultriness of the -climate, bilious intermittents, and the far-famed, far-dreaded "_fever -and ague_," not unfrequently terminating in consumption. This -circumstance, indeed, presents the grand obstacle to the settlement of -the American Bottom. It is one, however, not impracticable to obviate -at slight expense, by the construction of sluices and canals -communicating with the rivers, and by the clearing up and cultivation -of the soil. The salubrious influence of the latter expedient upon the -climate has, indeed, been satisfactorily tested during the ten or -twelve years past; and this celebrated alluvion now bids fair, in -time, to become the garden of North America. A few of its lakes are -beautiful water-sheets, with pebbly shores and sparkling waves, -abounding with fish. Among these is one appropriately named "Clear -Lake," or the _Grand Marais_, as the French call it, which may be seen -from St. Louis of a bright morning, when the sunbeams are playing upon -its surface, or at night when the moon is at her full. The [CCXVII] -earliest settlements of the Western Valley were planted upon the -American Bottom, and the French villagers have continued to live on in -health among the sloughs and marshes, where Americans would most -assuredly have perished. Geologically analyzed, the soil consists of a -silicious or argillaceous loam, as sand or clay forms the -predominating constituent. Its fertility seems exhaustless, having -continued to produce corn at an average of seventy-five bushels to the -acre for more than a hundred years in succession, in the neighbourhood -of the old French villages, and without deterioration. Maize seems the -appropriate production for the soil; all of the smaller grains, on -account of the rank luxuriance of their growth, being liable to -_blast_ before the harvesting. - -_Cahokia, Ill._ - -FOOTNOTES: - -[66] Two ranges of cliffs are known by this name. One is below Ste. -Genevieve.--FLAGG. - -[67] For further information on the pigmy cemetery in the Meramec, see -our volume xxvi, p. 105.--ED. - -[68] Mr. Flint's remarks respecting the Ancient Pottery found in the -West coincides so well with the result of my own more limited -observation, that I subjoin them in preference to extended description -myself. Preceding these remarks is an interesting notice of the -Lilliputian graves on the Merrimac, to which allusion has several -times been made. - -"At the time the Lilliputian graves were found on the Merrimac, in the -county of St. Louis, many people went from that town to satisfy their -curiosity by inspecting them. It appears from Mr. Peck that the graves -were numerous; that the coffins were of stone; that the bones in some -instances were nearly entire; that the length of the bodies was -determined by that of the coffins which they filled, and that the -bodies in general could not have been more than from three feet and a -half to four feet in length. Thus it should seem that the generations -of the past in this region were mammoths and pigmies. - -"I have examined the pottery, of which I have spoken above, with some -attention. It is unbaked, and the glazing very incomplete, since oil -will soak through it. It is evident, from slight departure from -regularity in the surface, that it was moulded by the hand and not by -anything like our lathe. The composition, when fractured, shows many -white floccules in the clay that resemble fine snow, and this I judge -to be pulverized shells. The basis of the composition appears to be -the alluvial clay carried along in the waters of the Mississippi, and -called by the French 'terre grasse,' from its greasy feel. Samples of -this pottery, more or less perfect, are shown everywhere on the river. -Some of the most perfect have been dug from what are called the -'chalk-banks,' below the mouth of the Ohio. The most perfect that I -have seen, being, in fact, as entire as when first formed, was a -vessel in my possession. It was a drinking jug, like the 'scyphus' of -the ancients. It was dug from the chalk-bank. It was smooth, -well-moulded, and of the colour of common gray stoneware. It had been -rounded with great care, and yet, from slight indentations on the -surface, it was manifest that it had been so wrought in the palm of -the hand. The model of the form was a simple and obvious one--the -bottle-gourd--and it would contain about two quarts. This vessel had -been used to hold animal oil; for it had soaked through, and varnished -the external surface. Its neck was that of a squaw, known by the -clubbing of the hair, after the Indian fashion. The moulder was not an -accurate copyist, and had learned neither statuary nor anatomy; for, -although the finish was fine, the head was monstrous. There seemed to -have been an intention of wit in the outlet. It was the horrible and -distorted mouth of a savage, and in drinking you would be obliged to -place your lips in contact with those of madam the squaw."--_Flint's -Recollections_, p. 173-4.--FLAGG. - -COMMENT BY ED. For bibliography on Indian antiquities, see our volume -xxvi, p. 69, note 33; p. 159, note 111; and p. 184, note 128. - -[69] Waterloo, in Monroe County, about thirty miles northwest of -Kaskaskia, was incorporated in 1848. In 1818 George Forquer purchased -the land on which the village now stands, and in the same year he and -Daniel P. Cook (later a member of Congress) laid out and named the -town. In 1825 the county seat was changed from Harrisonville to -Waterloo. About 1830, John Coleman erected a large wind-mill, later -changed to an ox-mill (1837). - -Bellefontaine is the name applied by the early French to a large -spring a mile south of the present site of Waterloo. In 1782 Captain -James Moore, who had served under George Rogers Clark, settled at this -spring, and in accordance with orders from the Virginia government -built a blockhouse fort as a protection against the Indians. Owing to -his tact and good judgment, amicable relations with the Indians were -maintained until 1786, when serious trouble really began. During the -next decade the Indians killed several whites.--ED. - -[70] Columbia, eight miles north of Waterloo, and fifteen miles south of -St. Louis, was laid out in 1820 on land belonging to Louis Nolan.--ED. - -[71] With reference to the American Bottom, see Ogden's _Letters from -the West_, in our volume xix, p. 62, note 48.--ED. - -[72] See our volume xxvi, p. 263, note 163.--ED. - - - - - XLI - - "Gramercy, Sir Traveller, it marvels me how you can carry between - one pair of shoulders the weight of your heavy wisdom. Alack, now! - would you but discourse me of the wonders you saw ayont the - antipodes!" - - "Peace, ignoramus! 'tis too good for thy ass's ears to listen to. - The world shall get it, caxtonized in a GREAT BOOK."--_Traveller - and Simpleton._ - - "Farewell! a word that must be, and hath been; - A sound which makes us linger--yet--farewell!" - _Childe Harold's Pilgrimage._ - - -Of the alluvial character of the celebrated American Bottom there can -exist no doubt. Logs, shells, fragments of coal, and pebbles, which -have been subjected to the abrasion of moving water, are found at a -depth of thirty feet from the surface; and the soil throughout seems of -unvarying fecundity. Whether this alluvial deposition is to be -considered the result of annual floods of the river for ages, or whether -the entire bottom once formed the bed of a vast lake, in which the -waters of the Mississippi and Missouri mingled on their passage to the -Gulf, is a question of some considerable interest. The latter seems the -more plausible theory. Indeed, the ancient existence of an immense lake, -where now lies the American Bottom, upon the east side of the -Mississippi, and the Mamelle Prairie upon the west side, extending -seventy [CCXIX] miles northwardly from the mouth of the Missouri where -the Bottom ends, appears geologically demonstrable. The southern limit -of this vast body of water seems to have been at that remarkable cliff, -rising from the bed of the Mississippi about twenty miles below the -outlet of the Kaskaskia, and known as the "Grand Tower." There is every -indication from the torn and shattered aspect of the cliffs upon either -side, and the accumulation of debris, that a grand parapet of limestone -at this point once presented a barrier to the heaped-up waters, and -formed a cataract scarcely less formidable than that of Niagara. The -elevation of the river by this obstacle is estimated at one hundred and -thirty feet above the present ordinary water-mark. For more than an -hundred miles before reaching this point, the Mississippi now rolls -through a broad, deep valley, bounded by an escarpment of cliffs upon -either side; and, wherever these present a bold façade to the stream, -they are grooved, as at the _cornice-rocks_, by a series of parallel -lines, distinctly traced and strikingly uniform. As the river descends, -these water-grooves gradually rise along the heights, until, at the -Grand Tower, they attain an altitude of more than an hundred feet; -below this point the phenomenon is not observed.[73] This circumstance, -and the disruption of the cliffs at the same elevation, clearly indicate -the former surface of the lake. Organic remains, petrifactions of -madrepores, corallines, concholites, and other fossil testacea, are -found imbedded in a stratum [CCXX] nearly at the base. Similar phenomena -of the water-lines exist upon the cliffs of the Ohio, and a barrier is -thought once to have obstructed the stream at a point called _the -Narrows_, sixty miles below Louisville, with the same result as upon the -Mississippi. The eastern boundary of the expansion of the latter stream -must have been the chain of bluffs now confining the American Bottom in -that direction, and considered a spur of the Ozark Mountains. This -extends northeasterly to the "confluence;" thence, bending away to the -northwest, it reaches the Illinois, and forms the eastern bank of that -river. Upon the western side, the hills along the Missouri are -sufficiently elevated to present a barrier to the lake until they reach -the confluence of the rivers. At this point spreads out the Mamelle -Prairie, sixty or seventy miles in length, and, upon an average, five -or six in breadth. West of this plain, the lake was bounded by the range -of bluffs commencing with the celebrated "Mamelles," and stretching -north until they strike the river; while the gradual elevation of the -country, ascending the Upper Mississippi, presented a limit in that -direction. - -The event by which this great lake was drained appears to have been of -a character either convulsive or volcanic, or to have been the result -of the long-continued abrasion of the waters, as at Niagara. The rocks -at the Grand Tower are limestone of secondary formation--the stratum -being several hundred feet in depth, and imbedding hornstone and -marine petrifactions throughout. They [CCXXI] everywhere exhibit -indications of having once been subjected to the attrition of rushing -water, as do the cliffs bounding the Northern lakes, which have long -been chafed by the waves. The evidence of volcanic action, or violent -subterranean convulsion of some kind, caused by heat, seems hardly -less evident. The former workings of a divulsive power of terrific -energy is betrayed, indeed, all over this region. In the immediate -vicinity of the Grand Tower, which may be considered the scene of its -most fearful operations, huge masses of shattered rock, dipping in -every direction, are scattered about; and the whole stratum for twenty -miles around lies completely broken up. At the point in the range of -bluffs where this confusion is observed to cease, the mural cliff -rises abruptly to the altitude of several hundred feet, exhibiting -along the façade of its summit deep water-lines and other evidence of -having once constituted the boundary of a lake. At the base issues a -large spring of fresh water, remarkable for a regular ebb and flow, -like the tides of the ocean, once in twenty-four hours.[74] At this -spot, also, situated in the southeastern extremity of St. Clair -county, exists an old American settlement, commenced a century since, -and called the "_Block-house_," from the circumstance of a stoccade -fort for defence against the [CCXXII] Indians.[75] By a late -geological _reconnoissance_, we learn that, from this remarkable -_tide-spring_ until we reach the Grand Tower, the face of the country -has a depressed and sunken aspect, as if once the bed of standing -water; and was evidently overlaid by an immense stratum of calcareous -rock. A hundred square miles of this massive ledge have, by some -tremendous convulsion of Nature, been thrown up and shattered in -fragments. The confused accumulation of debris is now sunken and -covered with repeated strata of alluvial deposite. Evidence of all -this is adduced from the circumstance that huge blocks of limestone -are yet frequently to be encountered in this region, some of them -protruding twenty or thirty feet above the surface. As we approach the -Grand Tower--that focus, around which the convulsed throes of Nature -seem to have concentrated their tremendous energy--the number and the -magnitude of these massive blocks constantly increase, until, at that -point, we behold them piled up in mountain-masses as if by the hand of -Omnipotent might. Upon all this vast Valley of the West the terrible -impress of Almighty power seems planted in characters too deep to be -swept away by the effacing finger of time. We trace them not more -palpably in these fearful results of the convulsions of Nature, -agonized by the tread of Deity, than in the eternal flow of those -gigantic rivers which roll their floods over this wreck of elements, -or in those ocean-plains which, upon either side, in billowy grandeur -heave away, wave after wave, till lost in the magnificence of -[CCXXIII] boundless extent. And is there nothing in those vast -accumulations of organic fossils--spoils of the sea and the land--the -collected wealth of the animal, vegetable, and mineral worlds, -entombed in the heart of the everlasting hills--is there naught in all -this to arouse within the reflecting mind a sentiment of wonder, and -elicit an acknowledgment to the grandeur of Deity? Whence came these -varied productions of the land and sea, so incongruous in character -and so diverse in origin? By what fearful anarchy of elements were -they imbedded in these massive cliffs? How many ages have rolled away -since they were entombed in these adamantine sepulchres, from which -Nature's convulsive throes in later times have caused the -resurrection? To such inquiries we receive no answer. The secrecy of -untold cycles veils the reply in mystery. The _effect_ is before us, -but the _cause_ rests alone with Omniscience. - -How wonderful are the phenomena betrayed in the geological structure of -our earth! And scarcely less so are the ignorance and the indifference -respecting them manifested by most of our race. "It is marvellous," says -the celebrated Buckland,[76] "that mankind should have gone on for so -many centuries in ignorance of the fact, which is now so fully -demonstrated, that so small a part of the present surface of the earth -is derived from the remains of animals that constituted the population -of ancient seas. Many extensive plains and massive mountains form, as it -were, the great charnel-houses of preceding generations, in which the -petrified exuviæ [CCXXIV] of extinct races of animals and vegetables are -piled into stupendous monuments of the operations of life and death -during almost immeasurable periods of past time." "At the sight of a -spectacle," says Cuvier,[77] "so imposing, so terrible as that of the -wreck of animal life, forming almost the entire soil on which we tread, -it is difficult to restrain the imagination from hazarding some -conjectures as to the cause by which such great effects have been -produced." The deeper we descend into the strata of the earth, the -higher do we ascend into the archæological history of past ages of -creation. We find successive stages marked by varying forms of animal -and vegetable life, and these generally differ more and more widely from -existing species as we go farther downward into the receptacle of the -wreck of more ancient creations. - -That centuries have elapsed since that war of elements by which the -great lake of the Mississippi was drained of its waters, the aged -forests rearing themselves from its ancient bed, and the venerable -monuments resting upon the surface, satisfactorily demonstrate. -Remains, also, of a huge animal of graminivorous habits, but differing -from the mastodon, have, within a few years, been disinterred from the -soil. The theory of the Baron Cuvier, that our earth is but the wreck -of other worlds, meets with ample confirmation in the geological -character of the Western Valley. - -As to agricultural productions, besides those of the more ordinary -species, the soil of the American Bottom, in its southern sections, -seems eminently [CCXXV] adapted to the cultivation of cotton, hemp, -and tobacco, not to mention the castor-bean and the Carolina potato. -The tobacco-plant, one of the most sensitively delicate members of the -vegetable family, has been cultivated with more than ordinary success; -and a quantity inspected at New-Orleans a few years since was -pronounced superior to any ever offered at that market. - -As I journeyed leisurely onward over this celebrated tract, extensive -and beautiful farms spread out themselves around me, waving in all the -gorgeous garniture of early autumn. The prairie was carpeted with the -luxuriant richness of the _golden rod_, and all the gaudy varieties of -the _heliotrope_ and _asters_, and the crimson-dyed leaves of the -dwarf-sumach; while here and there upon the extended plain stood out in -loneliness, like a landmark of centuries, one of those mysterious tombs -of a departed race of which I have already said so much. Some of them -were to be seen rearing up their summits from the hearts of extensive -maize-fields, crowned with an exuberance of vegetation; and upon one of -larger magnitude stood a white farmhouse, visible in the distance for -miles down the prairie. The number of these ancient mounds upon the -American Bottom is estimated at _three hundred_; far more than are to be -found upon any other tract of equal extent. - -At the old French village of _Prairie du Pont_,[78] situated upon a -creek of the same name, I made the necessary tarry for some refreshment, -upon which breakfast or dinner might have laid nearly equal [CCXXVI] -claim to bestow a name. The most striking circumstance which came under -my observation during my delay at this place was a very novel mode of -producing the metamorphosis of cream into butter pursued by these -villagers; a manœuvre executed by beating the cream with a spoon in a -shallow basin. This operation I beheld carried on by the dark-browed -landlord, much to my ignorance and wonder, with not an idea of its -nature, until the substance produced was placed upon the board before -me, and called _butter_. Prairie du Pont is one of the dampest, -filthiest, most disagreeably ruinous of all the old villages I have ever -visited. A few miles to the north is situated Cahokia,[79] one of the -earliest settlements in the state, and the ancient residence of the -_Caoquias,_ one of the tribes of the Illini Indians. The place is -supposed to have been settled by the followers of La Salle during his -second expedition to the West in 1683, on his return from the mouth of -the Mississippi. More than a century and a half has since elapsed; and -the river, which then washed the foot of the village, is now more than a -mile distant. This removal commenced, we are told, shortly after the -first settlement, and well exemplifies the arbitrary character of the -Western waters. Formerly, also, a considerable creek, which yet retains -the name of the village, passed through its midst, discharging itself -into the Mississippi not far below. The outlet is now several miles -higher up; and tradition attributes the change to the pique of an -irritated villager, who, out of sheer spite to the old place and its -inhabitants, [CCXXVII] cut a channel from the creek to the river, and -turned the waters from their ancient course. - -As French immigration at Cahokia increased, the Indian tribe receded, -until the last remnant has long since disappeared. Yet it is a -singular fact in the history of this settlement, that, notwithstanding -the savages were forced to abandon a spot endeared to them by -protracted residence and the abundance of game in the neighbouring -prairies and lakes, they have ever regarded their successors with -feelings of unchanging friendliness. How different, under the same -circumstances, was the fate of the settlements of Plymouth and -Jamestown; and even here, no sooner did the American race appear -among the French, than hostilities commenced. - -For many years Cahokia, like old Kaskaskia, was the gathering-spot of -a nomadic race of trappers, hunters, miners, voyageurs, engagés, -_couriers du bois_, and adventurers, carrying on an extensive and -valuable fur-trade with the Indian tribes of the Upper Mississippi. -This traffic has long since been transferred to St. Louis, and the -village seems now remarkable for nothing but the venerableness of age -and decay. All the peculiarities of these old settlements, however, -are here to be seen in perfection. The broad-roofed, whitewashed, and -galleried cottage; the picketed enclosure; the kitchen garden; the -peculiar costumes, customs, poverty, ignorance, and indolence of the -race, are here met, precisely as has more than once already been -described in these volumes. Here, too, is the gray old Catholic -church, in which service is still regularly [CCXXVIII] performed by -the officiating priest. Connected with it is now a nunnery and a -seminary of education for young ladies. The villagers still retain -their ancient activity of heel and suppleness of elbow; and not a week -is suffered to pass without a merry-making and a dance. The old -"common field" is still under cultivation; and, uncurtailed of its -fair proportions, stretches away up the bottom to the village opposite -St. Louis. This valuable tract, held in common by the villagers of -Cahokia and Prairie du Pont, has been confirmed to them by act of -Congress; and, so long since as fifty years, four hundred acres -adjoining the former village were, by special act, granted to each -family.[80] The number of families is now, as has been the case this -century past, about fifty, neither diminishing nor increasing. Very -few of the inhabitants are of American origin, and these are liable to -annual attacks of fever, owing to the damp site of the place and the -noxious effluvia of the numerous marshes in the vicinity. Upon the -French villagers these causes of disease exert no effect, favourable -or unfavourable. A few acres of corn; a log cabin; a few swarthy -responsibilities, and a few cattle; a cracked fiddle, and a few -cartloads of prairie-grass-hay in autumn, seems the very ultimatum of -his heart to covet or his industry to obtain. - -The road from Cahokia to the city, inasmuch as it is not often -conscious of a more dignified equipage than the rude market-cart of -the French villager, is of no wonderful celebrity for breadth, or -uniformity of track, or excellence of structure. It extends [CCXXIX] -along the bank of the Mississippi, and is shaded on either side by the -strip of forest which skirts the margin. After a tarry of several -hours at Cahokia, and an excursion among the mounds of the -neighbouring prairie, near sunset I found myself approaching -"Illinois-town," opposite St. Louis.[81] It was the calm, soft evening -hour; and, as I now advanced briskly over the prairie, the cool breeze -was whispering among the perfumed grass-tops, and "night's silvery -veil" was slowly gathering along the retreating landscape. The sun -went down like a monarch, robed in purple, and the fleecy clouds which -had formed his throne rolled themselves in rich luxuriance along the -horizon, suffused in the beautiful carmine of the heavens. At -intervals an opening in the forest laid bare the scene of splendour as -I hastened onward, and then all was dusk again. Winding among the -group of mounds reposing in the deepening twilight, and penetrating -the grove of pecans, the moon was just beginning to gild the gliding -wave at my feet as my horse stood out upon the bank of the stream. -Clear and distinct beyond, against the crimson back-ground of the -evening sky, were cut the towers, and cupolas, and lofty roofs of the -city; while in front, the lengthened line of white warehouses gleamed -from the shade along the curving shore: and the eye, as it glanced up -the far-retreating vistas of the streets, caught a glimpse of deeper -glories along the narrow zone of horizon beyond. The broad sheet which -I was now crossing seemed, with the oily gliding of its ripples, -completely died in the tender roseate of the [CCXXX] sunset sky. As -the shades of evening deepened into night, one after another these -delicate hues faded gently away: and the moonlight streamed in full -floods of misty magnificence far over the distant forests; the -evening-bells of the city pealed out merrily over the waters; the many -lights of the steamers cheerfully twinkled along the landing; and, as -the last faint glimmer of day had gone out, and night had resumed her -sable reign, I found myself once more amid the "crowd and shock of -men," threading the long, dusty streets of St. Louis.... - - * * * * * - -GENTLE READER, the tale is told--our task is ended-- - - "And what is writ, is writ; - Would it were worthier!" - -Our pilgrimage is over, fellow-wanderer. Full many a bright day have -we trod together the green prairies, and glided over the far-winding -waters of the fair Valley. Together have we paused and pondered beside -the mysterious mausoleum of a race departed. We have lingered among -the time-stained dwellings of an ancient and peculiar people, and with -kindling interest have dwelt upon the early chronicles and the wild -legends of the "far off," beautiful West. But autumn is upon -us--shadowy autumn, dark on the mountain-brow. Her purple mistiness is -deepening over the distant landscape; and the chill rustle of her -evening wind, in melancholy whisperings, wanders among the pennoned -[CCXXXI] grass-tops. Our pilgrimage ceases, yet with no unmingled -emotions do I say to thee "_pax vobiscum_!" - - "Ye! who have traced the Pilgrim to the scene - Which is his last, if in your memories dwell - A _thought_ which once was his, if on ye swell - A _single_ recollection, not in vain - He wore his sandal-shoon and scallop-shell: - Farewell!" - -_St. Louis, Oct._, 1837. - -FOOTNOTES: - -[73] The passage subjoined relative to the _Geological Transformations_ -which have taken place in the Mississippi Valley, is extracted from -"Schoolcraft's Travels in its central portions," and will be found -abundantly to corroborate my own observations upon the subject. - -"It seems manifest, from various appearances, that the country we have -under consideration has been subjected to the influence of water at a -comparatively recent period; and it is evident that its peculiar -alluvial aspect is the distinct and natural result of the time and the -mode in which these waters were exhausted. One striking fact, which -appears to have escaped general observation, is, that at some former -period there has been an obstruction in the channel of the Mississippi -at or near Grand Tower, producing a stagnation of the current at an -elevation of about one hundred and thirty feet above the present -ordinary water-mark. This appears evident from the general elevation -and direction of the hills, which, for several hundred miles above, -are separated by a valley from twenty to twenty-five miles wide, which -now deeply imbosoms the current of the Mississippi. Wherever these -hills disclose rocky and precipitous fronts, a series of -distinctly-marked antique water-lines are to be observed. These -water-lines preserve a parallelism which is very remarkable, and, what -we should expect to find, constantly present their greatest depression -towards the sources of the river. At Grand Tower they are elevated -about one hundred and thirty feet above the summit level, at which -elevation we observe petrifactions of madrepores and various other -fossil organic remains which belong to this peculiar era. Here the -rocks of dark-coloured limestone, which pervade the country to so -great an extent, project towards each other as if they had once -united; but, by some convulsion of nature, or, what is still more -probable, by the continued action of the water upon a secondary rock, -the Mississippi has effected a passage through this barrier, and thus -producing an exhaustion of the stagnant waters from the level prairie -lands above."--_Schoolcraft's Travels_, p. 218, 219.--FLAGG. - -_Comment by Ed._ This hypothesis, in the main formulated by H. R. -Schoolcraft, is still in its general features accepted by many -geologists. See also Elisée Reclus, _The Earth and its Inhabitants_ -(New York, 1893), article "North America," iii, pp. 224, 225. - -[74] A similar spring is said to issue from _debris_ at the foot of -the cliffs on the Ohio, in the vicinity of Battery Rock. Its stream is -copious, clear, and cold, ebbing and flowing regularly once in six -hours. This phenomenon is explained on the principle of the syphon. -Similar springs are found among the Alps.--FLAGG. - -[75] Flagg is somewhat mistaken concerning the age of the block-house -settlement. Previous to 1800, the only American settlement in St. -Clair County was Turkey Hill, which at that date numbered twenty -souls. William Scott, the first settler, moved thither with his family -from Kentucky in 1797, and became a permanent resident. About 1810, -Nathaniel Hill, Joshua Perkins, Reuben Stubblefield, James and Reuben -Lively, and Richard Bearley settled in the southeastern corner of St. -Clair County, and for protection against the Indians built a -block-house near the present city of Hillstown on Dosa Creek (a -tributary of the Kaskaskia). The fort was later abandoned, and the -settlers moved to other parts of the state. For a description of the -fort, see _History of St. Clair County, Illinois_ (Philadelphia, -1881), pp. 261, 262.--ED. - -[76] William Buckland (1784-1856), a distinguished English geologist, -who was as well canon of Christ College, Oxford (1825), and dean of -Westminster Abbey (1845), contributed many valuable papers to -geological publications. The Royal Society's _Catalogue of Scientific -Papers_ shows that Buckland was the author of fifty-three memoirs. His -most important publication, _Geology and Mineralogy Considered with -Reference to Natural Theology_ (a Bridgewater thesis, 1836), attempts -to prove by aid of science, "the Power, Wisdom, and Goodness of God, -as manifested in the Creation."--ED. - -[77] George Leopold Crétien Frédéric Dagobert, baron de Cuvier -(1769-1832), a French naturalist, was founder of the science of -comparative anatomy. He was chosen as one of the original members of -the Institute, organized in 1795. After holding various administrative -offices under Napoleon, he was appointed (1814) a councilor of state, -which position he held under Louis XVIII. In 1819 he was made -president of the committee of the interior, and chancellor of the -University of Paris. Louis Phillipe made him a peer of France. -Cuvier's scientific work falls into three divisions--paleontology, -systematic zoology, and comparative anatomy. He wrote extensively in -all these fields, and in each achieved high recognition. Consult: -Sarah Lee, _Memoirs of Baron Cuvier_ (London, 1833), and Ducrotay de -Blainville, _Cuvier et Geoffrey Saint Hilaire_ (Paris, 1890).--ED. - -[78] Prairie du Pont (Prairie Bridge), located upon a creek of the -same name, was so christened for a log bridge which in early times -crossed the creek at this point. The settlement was first made about -1760 by people from Cahokia who, according to tradition, fled thither -from the floods; the site is ten or twelve feet higher than that of -Cahokia. The Sulpician missionaries had built a mill there in 1754. In -1844 the place was nearly destroyed by floods.--ED. - -[79] For a short historical sketch of Cahokia, see A. Michaux's -_Travels,_ in our volume iii, p. 70, note 135. Flagg, in common with -the earlier writers, places the date of Cahokia too early.--ED. - -[80] By act of Congress approved March 1, 1791, "a tract of land -including the villages of Cohos [Cahokia], and Prairie du Pont, and -heretofore used by the inhabitants of the said village as a common," -was, "appropriated to the use of the inhabitants ... to be used by -them as a common, until otherwise disposed of by law." By the same -act, four hundred acres were ordered to be laid out, and "given to -each of those persons who in the year one thousand seven hundred and -eighty-three were heads of families at Vincennes, or in the Illinois -country, on the Mississippi, and who, since that time, have moved from -one of the said places to the other."--ED. - -[81] In 1815 Etienne Pinçoneau (now spelled Pensoneau) laid out a town -on the present site of East St. Louis, and named it Jacksonville. His -efforts proving unsuccessful, he sold the land to McKnight and Brady, -who in May, 1818, platted the site and named it Illinoistown. During -the succeeding autumn, the citizens of Cahokia appointed five agents -to lay out a town site on the Cahokia commons. Illinois City thus came -into existence, and the action of the citizens was legalized by -Congress (May 1, 1820). Illinoistown, Illinois City, and other small -villages were later united to form East St. Louis, which was -incorporated in 1861 and chartered four years later.--ED. - - - - - DE SMET'S LETTERS AND SKETCHES, 1841-1842 - - - Reprint of original English edition: Philadelphia, 1843 - -[Illustration: Allegorical Sketch] - - - - - LETTERS AND SKETCHES: - - WITH - - A NARRATIVE OF A YEAR'S RESIDENCE - - AMONG - - THE INDIAN TRIBES - - OF - - =The Rocky Mountains.= - - - BY - - P. J. DE SMET, S. J. - - - =Philadelphia:= - PUBLISHED BY M. EATHIAN, 61 N. SECOND STREET. - - - 1843. - - - - - PREFACE - - -To those who love their country, and their fellow men, we present this -interesting Narrative, with the hope, we might say, the certainty, -that its perusal will afford them some moments of the purest -gratification. We have seldom met any thing more entertaining. Its -simple, manly eloquence enchants the attention. The facts it makes -known to us of the "far, far West," the dispositions and habits of the -Indian Tribes who roam over the vast region of the Oregon, their -present state and future prospects, are such as cannot fail to awaken -lively interest in all who love to look around them beyond the narrow -horizon of every-day scenes, and learn what the holy servants of God -are doing for His sake and in His name in distant parts of the world. -We have conversed with the apostolic man from whose pen we receive -this narrative; and as we listened we felt at once honoured and -delighted to be so near one who in our days and in his own person -brings before us that lofty spirit of missionary devotedness--those -thrilling scenes of Indian life and adventure which we so much admire -in the pages of Charlevoix and Bancroft. - -[vi] Truly our country is full of interest to those who watch its -progress, and compare it with the past. Who, for example, could have -dreamt that the Iroquois, the savage Mohawk,--under which name we best -know the tribe, and whose startling yell so often made our forefathers -tremble,--would have been chosen to kindle the first faint sparks of -civilization and Christianity among a large portion of the Indian -tribes beyond the Rocky Mountains? This is one of the singular facts -which these pages present to us. They abound in others not less -singular and interesting. Many of these Indian nations actually thirst -after the waters of life--sigh for the day when the real "Long Gown" -is to appear among them, and even send messengers thousands of miles -to hasten his coming. Such longing after God's holy truth, while it -shames our colder piety, should also enflame every heart to pray -fervently that laborers may be found for this vast vineyard--and open -every hand to aid the holy, self-devoted men, who, leaving home and -friends and country, have buried themselves in these wilds with their -beloved Indians, to live for them and God. One of their favourite -plans at this moment is to introduce among them a taste for -agriculture, with the means to pursue it. They believe it to be the -speediest, perhaps the only way by which the Indians may be won from -the wandering life they now [vii] in general lead and from the idle -habits it engenders. To aid them in this philanthropic object is our -sacred duty as men, as Americans, as Christians. It is at least one -method of atonement for the countless wrongs which these unfortunate -races have received from the whites. We should be grateful to have -such an opportunity of doing good: let none suffer the occasion to -pass unhonoured by some tribute to the noble cause--some evidence of -their love for God, their country and their fellow man. - -The frontispiece is from the pencil of one of the Indian Missionaries. - -It blends the skill of the artist with the fancy of the poet, and will -hardly be understood without a word of explanation. In the foreground -we see several of the gigantic trees of the Oregon forests, fallen and -crossing each other. On these repose two wolves, a squirrel and -several serpents. Above, two Indian chiefs, surnamed in baptism after -the great Apostles of the Gentiles, Peter and Paul, are supporting a -large basket of hearts,--an offering to heaven from the grateful -wilderness. On the right are the emblems of Indian life and warfare: -the bow and arrows, battle-axe and shield. Below and above these are -seen some of the most remarkable animals of the country--the bear, the -[viii] wild horse, the badger, the graceful antelope, intermingled -with the plover, the pigeon, the wood-cock, the bittern, and other -birds of the region. On the left are the peaceful symbols of -Christianity--the Bible and the Cross, the chalice and altar -lights--the anchor, symbol of faith and hope--the trumpet, to proclaim -the word of God and bid the desert bless His holy name. Here too we -behold several of the noble animals of the territory--the buffalo, the -deer and elk, the mountain sheep and different birds. In the distance -are seen on the right, Indian mounds, and a water-spout rising from -the river Platte, and on the left, the Rocky Mountains surmounted by -the Cross. Festoons, composed of the various flowers the Fathers have -met on their way over mountains and prairies and through lonely -vallies, complete the picture--the whole supported at the extremities -by different birds of the country, and in the centre by the American -eagle,--fit emblem, we may say, of their own dauntless faith, as well -as of the heroic spirit of the nation within whose borders they have -their principal station, and from whose genuine piety they have -received the most consoling assurances of final success, viz: the Flat -Head Indians and the Pends-d'oreilles, who are styled, even by their -foes, the "nation of chiefs." - -[ix] Once more we earnestly commend the noble cause of these devoted -Missionaries to the charity of every sincere Christian. The short -time allowed to prepare the work for the press must be our apology for -several imperfections or errors which may meet the eye of the reader. - - - - - BOOK I - - Dies venit, dies tua - In qua reflorent omnia, - Lætemur et nos in viam, - Tua reducti dex-tera. - - The days of spring are drawing near - When all thy flowers will re-appear, - And we redeemed by thy right hand, - Shall walk in gladness thro' the land. - - - - - LETTER I - - - St. Louis University, Feb. 4, 1841. - - TO THE REV. F. J. B. - -Rev. and Dear Sir: - -I presume you are aware, that in the beginning of last Spring, I was -sent by the Right Rev. Bishop of St. Louis,[82] and my Provincial, on -an exploring expedition to the Rocky Mountains, in order to ascertain -the dispositions of the Indians, and the prospects of success we might -have if we were to establish a mission among them. It is truly -gratifying to me to have so favorable a report to make.--My -occupations do not allow me to enter into all the details; I shall -therefore be satisfied at present with giving you a brief sketch of my -journey and its result. - -I started from Westport on the 30th of April, in company with the -Annual Expedition of the American Fur Company, which for this year had -appointed the rendezvous on Green River, a tributary of the Rio -Colorado of the West.[83] Captain Dripps, who commanded the caravan, -treated me on all occasions with the most polite attention.[84] On the -6th day of our journey I was seized with the fever and ague, and have -been subject to it for nearly five months. Nothing particularly worth -noticing, occurred during the journey, except, when we halted in the -village of the Sheyennes.[85] I was introduced to the Chiefs as a -minister of the Great [XIV] Spirit: they showed me great deference, -and I was invited to a feast. I had to pass at first through all the -ceremonies of the calumet; the great chief approached me to shake -hands, and gave me a heartfelt "How do you do."--"Blackgown," said he, -"my heart was filled with joy when I learned who you were. My lodge -never received a visitor for whom I feel a greater esteem. As soon as -I was apprised of your coming, I ordered my great kettle to be filled, -and in your honor, I commanded that my three fattest dogs should be -served up." The bravest warriors of the nation partook of the repast, -and I availed myself of the opportunity to explain to them the most -important tenets of Christianity. I told them the object of my visit, -and enquired whether they would not be satisfied to have also -Black-gowns among them, who would teach them to love and serve the -Great Spirit, as he wished. "Oh yes," they eagerly answered, "we will -gladly provide for every thing that they stand in need of; they will -not die of hunger amongst us." I have no doubt but a zealous -missionary would do a great deal of good among them. They are about -two thousand in number. Their language, it is said, is very difficult. -On the 30th of June we arrived at the rendezvous.[86] An escort of -warriors had been provided for me by the Flat-heads. Our meeting was -that of children who come to meet their parent, and in the effusion of -their heart, they bestowed upon me the fondest names with a simplicity -truly patriarchal. They told me of all the interesting particulars of -their nation, and of the wonderful preservation of sixty of their men, -in a battle against two hundred Black-feet, which lasted five whole -days, and in which they killed fifty of their enemies, without losing -a single man of their number. "The Great Spirit watched over them;" -they said, "he knew that we were to guide you to [XV] our camp, and he -wanted to clear the road of all the obstacles that you might have -found on your way. We trust we will not be annoyed any more by the -Black-feet; they went off weeping like women." We thanked heaven for -the signal preservation, and implored its assistance for the new and -perilous journey we were on the point of undertaking. The Indians of -different nations and the trappers, had assembled at the rendezvous in -great numbers, for the sake of the trade. On Sunday, the fifth of -July, I had the consolation of celebrating the holy sacrifice of Mass -_sub dio_. The altar was placed on an elevation, and surrounded with -boughs and garlands of flowers; I addressed the congregation in French -and in English, and spoke also by an interpreter to the Flat-head and -Snake Indians. It was a spectacle truly moving for the heart of a -Missionary, to behold an assembly composed of so many different -nations, who all assisted at our holy mysteries with great -satisfaction.--The Canadians sung hymns in French and Latin, and the -Indians in their native tongue. It was truly a Catholic worship.... -This place has been called since that time, by the French Canadians, -_la prairie de la Messe_. - -About thirty of the principal chiefs of the Snake Indians invited me -to a council.[87] I explained to them the Christian doctrine in a -compendious manner--they were all very attentive--they then -deliberated among themselves for about half an hour, and one of the -chiefs, addressing me in the name of the others, said: "Black-gown, -the words of thy mouth have found their way to our hearts; they never -will be forgotten. Our country is open for thee; come to teach us what -we have to do, to please the Great Spirit, and we will do according to -thy words." I advised them to select among themselves a wise and -prudent man, who, every morning and evening, should assemble them to -offer [XVI] to Almighty God their prayers and supplications; that -there the good chiefs should have an opportunity of exhorting their -warriors to behave as they ought. The meeting was held the very same -evening, and the great chief promulgated a law, that for the future, -the one who would be guilty of theft, or of any other disorderly act, -should receive a public castigation. On Monday, 6th, we proceeded on -our journey.[88] A dozen Canadians wished to accompany me, to have an -opportunity, as they said, to practise their religion. Eight days -afterwards we arrived safely in the camp of the Flat-heads, and -Ponderas, or Pends d'oreilles.[89] - -[Illustration: Worship in the Desert] - -Immediately the whole village was in commotion; men, women and -children, all came to meet me, and shake hands, and I was conducted in -triumph to the lodge of the great chief Tjolizhitzay, (the Big face.) -He has the appearance of an old patriarch. Surrounded by the principal -chiefs of the two tribes, and the most renowned warriors, he thus -addressed me: "This day Kaikolinzosten (the Great Spirit) has -accomplished our wishes, and our hearts are swelled with joy. Our -desire to be instructed was so great, that three times had we deputed -our people to the Great Black-gown[90] in St. Louis, to obtain a -father. Now, Father, speak, and we will comply with all you will tell -us. Show us the road we have to follow, to come to the place where the -Great Spirit resides." Then he resigned his authority to me; but I -replied that he mistook the object of my coming among them; that I had -no other object in view, but their spiritual welfare; that with -respect to temporal affairs, they should remain as they were, till -circumstances should allow them to settle in a permanent -spot.--Afterwards we deliberated on the hours proper for their [XVII] -spiritual exercises and instructions. One of the chiefs brought me a -bell, with which I might give the signal. - -The same evening about 2,000 persons were assembled before my lodge to -recite night prayers in common. I told them the result of my -conference with the chiefs; of the plan of instructions which I -intended to pursue; and with what disposition they ought to assist at -them, etc. Night prayers having been said, a solemn canticle of praise -of their own composition, was sung by these children of the mountains, -to the Author of their being. It would be impossible for me to -describe the emotions I felt at this moment; I wept for joy, and -admired the marvellous ways of that kind Providence, who, in his -infinite mercy, had deigned to depute me to this poor people, to -announce to them the glad tidings of salvation. The next day I -assembled the council, and with the assistance of an intelligent -interpreter, I translated into their language the Lord's Prayer, the -Hail Mary, the Apostles' Creed, the ten Commandments, and four Acts. -As I was in the habit of reciting these prayers, morning and evening, -and before instructions, about a fortnight after, I promised a -beautiful silver medal to the one who would recite them first. One of -the chiefs rising immediately, "Father," said he, smiling, "that medal -is mine," and he recited all the prayers without missing a word. I -embraced him, praised the eagerness which he had evinced of being -instructed, and appointed him my Cathecist. This good Indian set to -work with so much zeal and perseverance, that in less than a fortnight -all knew their prayers. - -Every morning, at the break of day, the old chief is the first on -horseback, and goes round the camp from lodge to lodge. "Now my -children," he exclaims, "it is time to rise; let the first thoughts of -your hearts be for the Great [XVIII] Spirit; say that you love him, and -beg of him to be merciful unto you. Make haste, our Father will soon -ring the bell, open your ears to listen, and your hearts to receive the -words of his mouth." Then, if he has perceived any disorderly act on the -preceding day, or if he has received unfavorable reports from the other -chiefs, he gives them a fatherly admonition. Who would not think, that -this could only be found in a well ordered and religious community, and -yet it is among Indians in the defiles and vallies of the Rocky -Mountains!!! You have no idea of the eagerness they showed to receive -religious instruction. I explained the Christian doctrine four times a -day, and nevertheless my lodge was filled, the whole day, with people -eager to hear more. At night I related those histories of the Holy -Scriptures that were best calculated to promote their piety and -edification, and as I happened to observe, that I was afraid of tiring -them, "oh no," they replied, "if we were not afraid of tiring you, we -would gladly spend here the whole night." - -I conferred the holy sacrament of Baptism on six hundred of them, and -if I thought it prudent to postpone the baptism of others till my -return, it was not for want of desire on their part, but chiefly to -impress upon their minds a greater idea of the holiness of the -sacrament, and of the dispositions that are required to receive it -worthily. Among those baptised, were the two great chiefs of the -Flat-heads and of the Ponderas. As I excited the catechumens to a -heartfelt contrition of their sins, the _Walking Bear_, chief of the -Ponderas, answered: "Father, I have been plunged for a number of years -in profound ignorance of good and evil, and no doubt, during that -time, I have often greatly displeased the Great Spirit, and therefore -I must humbly beseech his pardon. But when I afterwards conceived -[XIX] that a thing was bad, I banished it from my heart, and I do not -recollect to have since deliberately offended the Great Spirit." -Truly, where such dispositions are found, we may well conclude that a -rich harvest is to be gathered. - -I remained two months among these good people, and every day they were -adding to my consolations, by their fervor in prayer, by their -assiduity in coming to my instructions, and by their docility in -putting into practice what they had been taught. - -The season being far advanced, and as I had waited in vain for a safe -opportunity to return to St. Louis, I resolved to commit myself entirely -to Providence, and on the 7th of August,[91] I took leave of my dear -Neophytes. I appointed one of the chiefs to replace me during my -absence, who should preside in their evening and morning devotions, and -on the Sabbath exhort them to virtue, baptize the little children, and -those who were dangerously ill. Grief was depicted on the features of -all, and tears were glistening in every eye. The old chief addressed me, -saying, "Father, the Great Spirit accompany thee in thy long and -dangerous voyage; every day, morning and evening, we will address to him -our humble supplications, that thou mayest arrive safely among thy -brethren. And we will continue to do so, till thou be again among thy -children of the mountains. We are now like the trees that have been -spoiled of their verdure by winter's blast. When the snow will have -disappeared from these vallies, and the grass begins to grow, our hearts -will begin to rejoice; when the plants will spring forth our joy will -increase; when they blossom, it will still be greater, and then we will -set out to meet you. Farewell, Father, farewell." - -The Chiefs would not suffer me to depart by myself--[XX] thirty of the -bravest warriors were deputed as a safeguard to traverse the country -of the Black-feet, who are very hostile to the whites, and they were -instructed to accompany me, as far as need would be of their -assistance. I resolved to take on my return a different route from the -one I had taken in coming. I was induced to do so, in order to visit -the Forts of the American Fur Company on the Missouri, and on the -Yellow Stone, to baptize the children. After five or six days -travelling, we fell in with a war party of the Crow Indians, who -received us very kindly, and we travelled together for two days. Then -we directed our course to the Big Horn,[92] the most considerable of -the tributary streams of the Yellow Stone. There we met another party -of the same nation, who were also amicably disposed towards us. As -there was question about religion, I availed myself of the opportunity -to express to them the main articles of the Christian faith, and as I -was depicting in lively colors the torments of hell, and had told them -that the Great Spirit had kindled this fire of his wrath, for those -who did not keep the commandments I had explained to them, one of the -Chiefs uttered a horrid shriek. "If this be the case," said he, "then -I believe there are but two in the whole nation who will not go to -that place; it is the Beaver and the Mink; they are the only Crows who -never stole, who never killed, nor committed all the excesses which -your law prohibits. Perhaps I am deceived, and then we must all go -together." When I left them on the next day, the Chief put a fine bell -on my horse's neck, and invited me to take a turn round the village. -Next, he accompanied me for six miles. - -After several days of a painful journey over rocks and cliffs, we -arrived at last at the fort of the Crows.[93] It is the first the -American Fur Company possessed in that country. [XXI] My dear -Flat-heads edified all the inhabitants by their fervor and their -piety. As well in the fort, as on the road, we never missed performing -in common, our evening and morning devotions, and singing canticles in -honor of the Almighty. Frequently, during my stay with them, they had -given me abundant proofs of their trust in Providence. I cannot -forbear mentioning one instance that occurred during my travels in -this place. One day as dinner was preparing and provisions scarce, a -countryman of mine, who accompanied me, suggested the propriety of -keeping something in reserve for supper. "Be not uneasy," said the -chief, called Ensyla,[94] "I never missed my supper in my life. I -trust in the mercy of the Great Spirit, he will provide for all our -wants." We had just camped at night, when the chief killed two stags. -"Did I not tell you right?" he remarked, smilingly, to my companion. -"You see the Great Spirit does not only provide for our wants of this -evening, but he gives us also a supply for to-morrow." - -Now began the most difficult and most perilous part of our journey. I -had to pass through a country supposed to be overrun by war parties, of -the Black-feet, Assineboins, Gros Ventres, Arikaras, and Scioux.[95] All -these nations entertained the most hostile dispositions towards the -Flat-heads. I therefore dispensed with their services any farther. I -again excited them to continue the good work they had begun; to be -steadfast in their faith; regular in their devotions; charitable towards -one another. I embraced them all and took my leave. Mr. John de -Velder,[96] a native of Ghent in Belgium, had volunteered his services -to me at the Rendezvous. In consideration of the bad state of my health, -I deemed myself very happy to accept of them; he has never left me -since. He was now to be my only travelling companion. As there is no -road, we followed the direction of the river; at intervals we were -[XXII] obliged to make immense circuits to avoid the steep and craggy -hills that defied our passage. For two hundred miles, we had continually -death before our eyes. On the second day, I discovered before daylight a -large smoke at a distance of about a quarter of a mile. We hastily -saddled our horses and following up a ravine we gained a high bluff -unperceived. At night we did not dare to make fire for fear of -attracting notice. Again about dinner time, we found on the road the -carcase of a Buffalo, killed only two hours before; the tongue and the -marrow bones with some other dainty pieces had been taken away. Thus the -kind providence of our God took care to supply our wants. - -We took a direction contrary to the tracks of the Indians, and spent a -safe night in the cliffs of the rocks. The next day we struck upon a -spot where forty lodges had been encamped, the fires were yet in full -blaze. - -Finally, we crossed the Missouri at the same place where, only an -hour before, a hundred lodges of ill-minded Assineboins had passed, -and we arrived safe and unmolested at Fort Union, situated a few miles -above the mouth of the Yellow Stone. In all these Forts great harmony -and union prevail; Mr. Kipps, the present administrator of them, is a -gentleman well worthy of his station.[97] Every where I was treated by -these gentlemen with the greatest politeness and kindness, and all my -wants were liberally supplied. As I was relating the particulars of -this dangerous trip to an Indian Chief, he answered: "The Great Spirit -has his Manitoos; he has sent them to take care of your steps and to -trouble the enemies that would have been a nuisance to you." A -Christian would have said: Angelis suis mandavit de te, ut custodiant -te in omnibus viis tuis.[98] [XXIII] On 23d of September we set out -for the village of the Mandans, in company with three men of the fort, -who had the same destination. We met on the road a party of 19 -Assineboins, who were returning to their country from an unsuccessful -expedition against the Gros Ventres. Their looks indicated their bad -intentions: although we were but five in number, we showed a -determined countenance, and we passed unmolested. Next day we crossed -a forest, the winter quarters of the Gros Ventres, and Arikaras, in -1835. It was there that those unfortunate tribes were nearly -exterminated by the small pox. We saw their bodies wrapped up in -Buffalo robes, tied to the branches of the largest trees. It was truly -a sad and mournful spectacle. Two days later we met the miserable -survivors of these unhappy tribes. Only ten families of the Mandans, -once such a powerful nation, now remain. They have united with the -Gros Ventres and Arikaras. They received me with great demonstrations -of friendship; I spent that night in their camp, and the next day -crossed the Missouri in their canoe, made of a buffalo skin.[99] The -next day we came to the first village of the Arikaras, and on the -following day to their great village, consisting of about a hundred -earthen wigwams.[100] This tribe also received me very kindly. On the -6th of October we started from the Mandan village, for Fort Pierre, on -the little Missouri;[101] a Canadian, whose destination lay in the -same direction, accompanied us. The Commandant of the Fort had -recommended to us in a special manner to be on our guard against the -Jantonnois, the Santees, Jantous, Ankepatines, Ampapas, Ogallallas, -and Black-feet Scioux, who have often proved very troublesome to white -strangers.[102] On the third day of our journey we fell in with an -ambuscade of the Jantonnois and Santees; they did not do us any harm, -but on the contrary [XXIV] treated us very kindly, and at our -departure loaded us with provisions. The next day we fell in with -several other parties, who showed us much kindness. On the ninth day -we were on the lands of the Black-feet Scioux; this country is -undulating and intersected with numberless little streams. For greater -caution we travelled in ravines. Towards dinner time, a fine -landscape, near a delicious spring, seemed to invite us to take some -repose. We had scarcely alighted, when all on a sudden a tremendous -yell alarmed us, and from the top of the hill under which we were, the -Black-feet darted upon us like lightning. "Why do you hide -yourselves?" asked the Chief, in a stern voice. "Are you afraid of -us?" Dressed in my cassock with a crucifix on my breast,--a costume I -always wear in the Indian country,--it appeared to me that I was the -subject of his particular enquiry. He asked the Canadian what kind of -a man I was. The Frenchman said I was a Chief, a Black-gown, the man -who spoke to the Great Spirit. He assumed immediately a milder -countenance, ordered his men to lay down their arms, and we performed -the ceremonies of shaking hands and smoking the calumet of peace. He -then invited me to accompany them to the village, situated only at a -short distance. It consisted of about a thousand souls. I pitched my -tent at some distance, in a beautiful pasture, on the margin of a fine -stream, and invited the great chief to partake of a supper with me. As -I said grace before meal, he enquired of the Canadian what I was -about. He is addressing the Great Spirit, was the reply, in gratitude -for the food he has granted us. The chief nodded a sign of -approbation. Shortly after, twelve warriors, in full costume, -stretched a large buffalo robe before the place where I sat. The -chief, taking me by the arm, invited me to sit down. I was under the -impression that there was [XXV] question again of smoking the calumet. -Judge of my astonishment, when the twelve warriors, seizing each a -piece of the robe, took me up, and headed by their chief, carried me -in triumph to their village. In the lodge of the great chief the most -conspicuous place was assigned me, and he addressed me thus: "This day -is the happiest of my life. For the first time do we behold among us a -man who is so closely united with the Great Spirit. Black-gown, you -see before you the chief warriors of my tribe; I have invited them to -this feast, in order that they may keep the remembrance of your coming -among us as long as they shall live." Then he invited me to speak -again to the Great Spirit, (to say grace), I began in the name of the -Father and of the Son, etc., and immediately all present lifted up -their hands towards heaven; when I had concluded they all struck the -ground. I asked the chief what they meant by this ceremony. "When we -lift up our hands," said he, "we signify that all our dependence is on -the Great Spirit, and that he in his fatherly care provides for all -our wants: we strike the ground to signify that we are only worms and -miserable creeping beings in his sight." He asked me in his turn, what -I had told to the Great Spirit. Unhappily, the Canadian was a poor -interpreter, still I endeavored to make them understand, as well as I -could, the Lord's Prayer. The chief showed great eagerness to know -what I said.--He ordered his son and two other very intelligent young -men to accompany me to the fort, in order to learn the principles of -the Christian doctrine, and to be at the same time a safeguard against -the Indians who might be inimically disposed towards us. Two days -afterwards we met an Indian, whose horse was bending under a load of -buffalo meat. Seeing us without provisions, he requested us to accept -what we might stand in need of, advising us to take [XXVI] the whole, -for, said he, in the vicinity of the fort, game is very scarce. Five -days afterwards we arrived at Fort Pierre. Thence I travelled through -prairies for nineteen days successively. We were often obliged to cook -our victuals with dried herbs--not a stick was to be found. When I -arrived at Fort Vermillion,[103] I was apprised that the Santees had -been on a warlike expedition against the Pottawatomies, of the Council -Bluffs, among whom I had labored the two preceding years.[104] - -I invited them to a council, and gave them a severe reprimand for -violating the solemn promise they had made me the preceding year, of -living with their neighbors on amicable terms. I showed them the -injustice of attacking a peaceable nation without being provoked; the -dreadful consequences of the Pottawatomies' revenge, that might end in -the extinction of their tribe. I was requested to be once more the -mediator, and they told me that they had resolved to bury the tomahawk -forever.[105] - -I had lost two horses on the road; the one I was riding could hardly -support me any longer, and I was yet three hundred miles distance from -the Council Bluffs. I resolved of course to embark on the Missouri, -and engaged a native Iroquois to be my pilot. At first we were favored -with fine weather, but this lasted only a few days. Very soon -inclement weather set in with frost and snow; and several times as we -drifted down the rapid stream, our frail canoe was on the point of -being dashed to pieces against the numberless snags that obstruct its -navigation. This dangerous trip lasted ten days. We generally spent -the night on a sand bar. We had only a few frozen potatoes left when -we perceived a beautiful deer gazing at us, and apparently waiting to -receive its mortal blow. We shot at it. [XXVII] At last we arrived -safe at the bluffs, and on the same night the river was closed by ice. - -So many escapes from the midst of so many dangers thoroughly convinced -me that this undertaking is the work of God--omnia disponens fortiter -et ad finem suam conducens suaviter. (Who reacheth from end to end -mightily, and ordereth all things sweetly.) I am now preparing for my -return, and will start early in Spring, accompanied by three Fathers -and as many Brothers. You are aware such expeditions cannot be -undertaken without the necessary means, and the fact is, I have no -other reliance than Providence and the kindness of my friends. I hope -they will not be wanting. I know that you must feel deeply interested -in this meritorious good work, I therefore take the liberty of -recommending it to your generosity, and that of your friends--every -little contribution will help. I will be very grateful to you, if you -have the kindness to forward to my address at the St. Louis -University, Mo., before the end of March, or middle of April, the -amount you have collected. - -I recommend myself and my dear Neophytes to your good prayers and holy -sacrifices, and rest assured that we shall not forget our benefactors. - - P. J. DE SMET, S. J. - -FOOTNOTES: - -[82] Father de Smet was sent on the mission to the Flathead Indians by -Joseph Rosati. For an account of the latter, see Flagg's _Far West_, -in our volume xxvi, p. 164, note 115.--ED. - -[83] In 1821, Pierre Chouteau, Jr., of the American Fur Company, -established a general agency in the bottom opposite Randolph Bluffs, -about three miles below the present site of Kansas City. His buildings -having been destroyed by a flood in 1826, he erected others on higher -ground, in the present Guinott addition, near the foot of Walnut -street. The place was called Chouteau's Warehouse, and soon became a -favorite shipping point for the Indian trade. In 1831 John McCoy built -a trading house at the crossing of the roads from Chouteau's Warehouse -and Independence. Two years later he platted a town at this point and -named it Westport. Westport first used Chouteau's Warehouse as a -landing place, but later built a wharf on the high rocky bank of the -river, at the present foot of Grand Avenue, Walnut, Main, and Delaware -streets. Because of superior natural advantages, this latter place -soon became the principal landing, and in 1838 a company purchased the -site, platted a town, and named it Kansas City. Westport thus became -the starting point for the caravans to the Western country. - -Prior to 1822, the overland expeditions seem to have been composed of -men on foot carrying their wares in packs. Later, pack horses were -substituted, and by 1830 wagons were used almost exclusively. Owing to -the dangers from hostile Indians, the traders going to Santa Fé or -points in the Rocky Mountains formed themselves into caravans for -mutual protection, with an organized system of guards and camps. See -Gregg's _Commerce of the Prairies_, in our volume xix, pp. 198-201, -for a description of these caravans.--ED. - -[84] Andrew Drips was born in Westmoreland County, Pennsylvania -(1789), went west, and with eight other St. Louis men formed the -Missouri Fur Company (1820). He was later a member of the independent -firm of Fontenelle and Drips. When the American Fur Company began -their westward expansion, Drips entered into their employ, having -charge after 1836 of annual expeditions to the mountains. In 1842, the -company having encountered strong opposition, the federal government -was prevailed upon to revive the office of Indian agent. Drips served -four years as agent to the Sioux of the upper Missouri, with an annual -salary of $1500. In this capacity, Drips rendered valuable service to -the company. Upon the expiration of his term of office, he re-entered -the company's employment, in which he continued until his death at -Kansas City, Missouri (1860). He married a woman of the Oto Indian -nation. Their daughter, Mrs. William Mulkey of Kansas City, has in her -possession many of her father's valuable papers. See H. M. Chittenden, -_American Fur-Trade of the Far West_ (New York, 1902).--ED. - -[85] For a sketch of the Cheyenne, see Bradbury's _Travels_, in our -volume v, p. 140, note 88.--ED. - -[86] The rendezvous in 1840 was held in the upper valley of Green -River, near Fort Bonneville, in western Wyoming. Near the headwaters -of the Missouri, Columbia, and Colorado rivers, this place was a -natural and well-known meeting point. For a description of Green -River, see Wyeth's _Oregon_, in our volume xxi, p. 60, note 38; for -the rendezvous at this place in 1834, see Townsend's _Narrative_, in -the same volume, p. 192, note 40.--ED. - -[87] For a sketch of the Snake Indians, see Bradbury's _Travels_, in -our volume v, p. 227, note 123.--ED. - -[88] In the _Voyages aux Montagnes Rocheuses_, De Smet says, "on the -4th of July, I resumed my travels, with my Flatheads."--ED. - -[89] Flathead was a term applied to various tribes of Indians who were -supposed to practice the custom of flattening the heads of their -infants. A division of the Choctaw was known by this name. The tribe -here referred to belonged to the Salishan stock; see Franchère's -_Narrative_, in our volume vi, p. 340, note 145. They were not in the -habit of flattening the head, and the origin of their cognomen is -unknown. The specific tribe visited by De Smet dwelt along the lake -and river which bear their name, with their chief centre in the -Bitterroot Valley. By the treaty of 1855 they ceded to the government -an extensive tract of land in this region, being nearly two degrees in -width and extending from near the forty-second parallel to the British -line. In November, 1871, the president issued an order for their -removal from Bitterroot Valley to the Jocko reservation. Arrangements -were further completed by the article of agreement of August 27, 1872. -After considerable delay they removed thither, and together with the -Pend d'Oreille and Kutenai, kindred tribes, still inhabit the -reservation. See Peter Ronan, _Historical Sketch of the Flathead -Indian Nation_ (Helena, 1890). - -The Pend d'Oreille (Ear-ring) Indians, whose native name was Kalispel, -were kindred to the Flathead, speaking a similar dialect. Their -habitat lay northwest of the Flathead proper, upon the Idaho lake and -its tributary river bearing their name.--ED. - -[90] The Bishop.--DE SMET. - -[91] Evidently a misprint for 27th of August. Consult the succeeding -letter.--ED. - -[92] For sketches of the Blackfeet and the Crows, see Bradbury's -_Travels_, in our volume v, pp. 225 and 226, notes 120, 121 -respectively. In _Voyages aux Montagnes Rocheuses_, De Smet says that -this camp of Crows consisted of one thousand souls. - -The Big Horn River, so called from the Rocky Mountain sheep, rises in -the Wind River range, near the centre of Wyoming, flows north through -the Big Horn Mountains into Montana, and bending toward the northeast -joins the Yellowstone as its principal tributary. South of the Big -Horn Mountains, the stream is usually called Wind River. The Big Horn -Valley, the home of the Crows, was a rich fur-bearing region and -frequently visited by trappers and traders.--ED. - -[93] The post visited by Father de Smet was Fort Van Buren, located on -the south bank of the Yellowstone, at the mouth of the Rosebud. It was -built in 1835 by A. J. Tulloch for the American Fur Company, and stood -until 1842, when it was burned by instructions from Charles J. -Larpenteur, who at once ordered the erection of Fort Alexander, on the -north side of the Yellowstone, twenty miles higher up. De Smet was -mistaken when he said that Fort Van Buren was the first fort of the -Yellowstone erected by the American Fur Company. Fort Cass was built -by A. J. Tulloch in 1832 at the mouth of the Big Horn, but three years -later was abandoned. The fourth and last fort erected in this region -by the American Fur Company was Fort Sarpy, on the south side of this -river, twenty-five miles below the old site of Fort Cass. Consult -Major Frederick T. Wilson, "Old Fort Pierre and its Neighbors," with -editorial notes by Charles E. De Land, in _South Dakota Hist. Colls._ -(Aberdeen, S. D., 1902), i, pp. 259-379.--ED. - -[94] Ensyla (Insula), sometimes called Little Chief because of his -station, also named Red Feather from his official emblem, and christened -Michael because of his faithfulness, was one of the most influential of -the Flathead chiefs, and figures prominently in De Smet's work among the -Indians of his tribe. In 1835 he had visited the rendezvous in Green -River Valley, in the hope of securing missionary aid, and there met -Samuel Parker and Marcus Whitman. See Samuel Parker, _Journal of an -Exploring Tour among the Rocky Mountains_ (Ithaca, 1838), p. 77. -According to L. B. Palladino, _Indian and White in the Northwest_ -(Baltimore, 1894), Insula was disappointed not to find a "black robe," -and preserved his tribe for Catholic missionaries. His integrity, -judgment, and bravery made him highly esteemed.--ED. - -[95] For sketches of the Arikara and Sioux, see Bradbury's _Travels_, -in our volume v, pp. 113 and 90, notes 76 and 55 respectively; for the -Assiniboin, see Maximilian's _Travels_, in our volume xxii, p. 370, -note 346; for the Gros Ventres, see Bradbury's _Travels_, in our -volume v, p. 114, note 76.--ED. - -[96] For a more complete account of John de Velder, see succeeding -letter.--ED. - -[97] For sketches of Fort Union and James Kipp (not Kipps), see -Maximilian's _Travels_, in our volume xxii, pp. 373, 345, notes 349, -319 respectively.--ED. - -[98] "He has given his angels charge of thee, that they guard thee in -all thy ways."--DE SMET. - -[99] For a sketch of the Mandan Indians, see Bradbury's _Travels_, in -our volume v, p. 114, note 76; for an account of their burial customs, -see p. 160, in the same volume; and for the location of their -villages, see Maximilian's _Travels_, in our volume xxiii, p. 234, -note 192. The smallpox scourge occurred in 1837. - -In reference to buffalo-boats or skin-boats, see Maximilian's -_Travels_, in our volume xxiii, p. 279, note 246.--ED. - -[100] For the original location of the Arikara villages, see our volume -xxii, pp. 335, 336, notes 299, 300. At the time of the great small-pox -scourge (1837), the Arikara were encamped near the Mandan village. The -latter tribe abandoned their villages, and the small remnant moved some -three miles up the Missouri, where they erected fifteen or twenty new -huts; while the Arikara took possession of their old villages, where De -Smet found them. For their location see our volume xxiii, pp. 254, 255. -When the missionary in the succeeding sentence speaks of starting from -the "Mandan village," he means the former Mandan village, now inhabited -by the Arikara. The latter tribe remained at this site until their -removal to Fort Berthold, about 1862.--ED. - -[101] In reference to Fort Pierre, see Maximilian's _Travels_, in our -volume xxii, p. 315, note 277. For a description of the Little -Missouri River, more frequently known as Teton or Bad, see our volume -xxiii, p. 94, note 81.--ED. - -[102] The reference is to the various divisions of the Dakota or -Sioux; but the classification is unsatisfactory. For recent -classification, see J. W. Powell, U. S. Bureau of Ethnology _Report_, -1885-86, pp. 111-113; also Maximilian's _Travels_, in our volume xxii, -p. 326, note 287. By the "Jantonnais" and "Jantons," De Smet intends -the modern Yanktonai and Yankton.--ED. - -[103] Vermillion Post, established for trading with the lower Sioux -tribes, was located on the east bank of the Missouri, ten miles below -the mouth of the Vermillion. The shifting of the stream has since 1881 -rendered difficult the locating of the old post, which was described -by Audubon, who passed there in 1843; see M. R. Audubon, _Audubon and -his Journals_ (New York, 1897), i, pp. 493, 494. Also consult _South -Dakota Historical Collections_, i, pp. 376, 377. Dickson's post, also -called Fort Vermillion, was some miles above the river of that name. -See our volume xxiv, p. 97, note 73. It is uncertain which post is -intended.--ED. - -[104] By the treaty made at Chicago in September, 1833, the -Potawatomi, Ottawa, and Chippewa ceded to the United States government -about five million acres of land, whereupon the Potawatomi were -assigned to a reservation between the western borders of the state of -Missouri and the Missouri River, in what was later known as the Platte -purchase. This tract was incorporated with Missouri in 1836, and the -Indian tribe was transferred to a reservation in southwestern Iowa, -with Council Bluffs as their chief village. Here in 1838 Father -Verreydt, with Father de Smet and two lay brothers, laid the -foundation of a mission dedicated to the "Blessed Virgin and St. -Joseph," where De Smet served until his departure for the Flathead -country (1840). Father Christian Hoecken succeeded him. By the treaty -of 1846 the Potawatomi were transferred from Iowa to Kansas, where -another Catholic mission was begun among them, frequently visited by -De Smet in his later life.--ED. - -[105] In 1839 Father de Smet undertook a journey from St. Joseph's -mission, at Council Bluffs, into the Sioux territory for the purpose -of effecting a treaty between these tribes and the Potawatomi. He -ascended the Missouri in the steamer of the American Fur Company, on -which J. N. Nicollet, the famous geographer, was likewise a passenger. -See Chittenden and Richardson, _De Smet_, i, pp. 179-192.--ED. - - - - - LETTER II - - TO THE REV. FATHER ROOTHAAN, GENERAL OF THE - SOCIETY OF JESUS[106] - - - University of St. Louis, 7th Feb. 1841. - - Very Rev. Father: - -In a letter, which I suppose has been communicated to you, I informed -the Bishop of St. Louis of the results, as far as they bear on -religion, of my journey to the _Rocky Mountains_. But that letter, -though lengthy, could give you but a very imperfect idea of the desert -which I passed six months in traversing, and of the tribes who make it -the scene of their perpetual and sanguinary rivalship. It will, -therefore, I think, be useful to resume the history of my mission; and -I repeat it the more willingly, since I am called to penetrate again -into those deep solitudes, from which, I may, perhaps, never return. -To my brethren, who take an interest in my dear Indians, I owe an -account of all my observations upon their character and customs, upon -the aspect and resources of the country they inhabit, and upon their -dispositions, that they may know how far they are favorable to the -propagation of the Gospel.[107] - -We arrived the 18th of May upon the banks of the _Nebraska_, or _Big -Horn_, which is called by the French by the less suitable name of the -_Flat River_.[108] It is one of the most magnificent rivers of North -America. From its source, which is hidden among the remotest mountains -of this vast continent, to the river Missouri, of which it is a -tributary, it receives a number of torrents descending from the [XXIX] -Rocky Mountains; it refreshes and fertilizes immense vallies, and -forms at its mouth the two great geographical divisions of the upper -and lower Missouri. As we proceeded up this river, scenes more or -less picturesque opened upon our view. In the middle of the Nebraska, -thousands of islands, under various aspects, presented nearly every -form of lovely scenery. I have seen some of those isles, which, at a -distance, might be taken for flotillas, mingling their full sails with -verdant garlands, or festoons of flowers; and as the current flowed -rapidly around them, they seemed, as it were, flying on the waters, -thus completing the charming illusion, by this apparent motion. The -tree which the soil of these islands produces in the greatest -abundance, is a species of white poplar, called cotton tree; the -savages cut it in winter, and make of the bark, which appears to have -a good taste, food for their horses. - -Along the banks of the river, vast plains extend, where we saw, from -time to time, innumerable herds of wild Antelopes. Further on, we met -with a quantity of buffaloes' skulls and bones, regularly arranged in -a semicircular form, and painted in different colors. It was a -monument raised by superstition, for the Pawnees never undertake an -expedition against the savages who may be hostile to their tribe, or -against the wild beasts of the forest, without commencing the chase, -or war, by some religious ceremony, performed amidst these heaps of -bones. At the sight of them our huntsmen raised a cry of joy; they -well knew that the plain of the buffaloes was not far off, and they -expressed by these shouts the anticipated pleasure of spreading havoc -among the peaceful herds. - -Wishing to obtain a commanding view of the hunt, I got up early in the -morning and quitted the camp alone, in order to ascend a hillock near -our tents, from which I might [XXX] fully view the widely extended -pasturages. After crossing some ravines, I reached an eminence, whence -I descried a plain, whose radius was about twelve miles, entirely -covered with wild oxen. You could not form, from any thing in your -European markets, an idea of their movement and multitude. Just as I -was beginning to view them, I heard shouts near me; it was our -huntsmen, who rapidly rushed down upon the affrighted herd--the -buffalos fell in great numbers beneath their weapons. When they were -tired with killing them, each cut up his prey, put behind him his -favorite part, and retired, leaving the rest for the voracity of the -wolves, which are exceedingly numerous in these places, and they did -not fail to enjoy the repast. On the following night I was awakened by -a confused noise, which, in the fear of the moment, I mistook for -impending danger. I imagined, in my first terror, that the Pawnees, -conspiring to dispute with us the passage over their lands, had -assembled around our camp, and that these lugubrious cries were their -signal of attack.--"Where are we," said I, abruptly, to my guide. -"Hark ye!--Rest easy," he replied, laying down again in his bed; "we -have nothing to fear; it is the wolves that are howling with joy, -after their long winter's hunger: they are making a great meal -to-night on the carcasses of the buffalos, which our huntsmen have -left after them on the plain." - -On the 28th, we forded the southern arm of the river Platte.[109] All -the land lying between this river and the great mountains is only a -heath, almost universally covered with lava and other volcanic -substances. This sterile country, says a modern traveller,[110] -resembles, in nakedness and the monotonous undulations of its soil, the -sandy deserts of Asia. Here no permanent dwelling has ever been erected, -and even the huntsman seldom appears in the best seasons of the year. At -all other times the grass is withered, the [XXXI] streams dried up; the -buffalo, the stag, and the antelope, desert these dreary plains, and -retire with the expiring verdure, leaving behind them a vast solitude -completely uninhabited. Deep ravines formerly the beds of impetuous -torrents, intersect it in every direction, but now-a-days the sight of -them only adds to the painful thirst which tortures the traveller. Here -and there are heaps of stones, piled confusedly like ruins; ridges of -rock, which rise up before you like impassible barriers, and which -interrupt, without embellishing, the wearisome sameness of these -solitudes. Such are the Black Hills; beyond these rise the Rocky -Mountains, the imposing land-marks of the Atlantic world. The passes and -vallies of this vast chain of mountains afford an asylum to a great -number of savage tribes, many of whom are only the miserable remnants of -different people, who were formerly in the peaceable possession of the -land, but are now driven back by war into almost inaccessible defiles, -where spoliation can pursue them no further. - -This desert of the West, such as I have just described it, seems to -defy the industry of civilized man. Some lands, more advantageously -situated upon the banks of rivers, might, perhaps, be successfully -reduced to cultivation; others might be turned into pastures as -fertile as those of the East--but it is to be feared that this immense -region forms a limit between civilization and barbarism, and that -bands of malefactors, organised like the Caravans of the Arabs, may -here practise their depredations with impunity. This country will, -perhaps, one day, be the cradle of a new people, composed of the -ancient savage races, and of that class of adventurers, fugitives and -exiles, that society has cast forth from its bosom--a heterogeneous -and dangerous population, which the American Union has collected like -a [XXXII] portentous cloud upon its frontiers, and whose force and -irritation it is constantly increasing, by transporting entire tribes -of Indians from the banks of the Mississippi, where they were born, -into the solitudes of the West, which are assigned as their place of -exile. These savages carry with them an implacable hatred towards the -whites, for having, they say, unjustly driven them from their country, -far from the tombs of their fathers, in order to take possession of -their inheritance. Should some of these tribes hereafter form -themselves into hordes, similar to the wandering people, partly -shepherds, and partly warriors, who traverse with their flocks the -plains of Upper Asia, is there not reason to fear, that in process of -time, they with others, may organize themselves into bands of -pillagers and assassins, having the fleet horses of the prairies to -carry them; with the desert as the scene of their outrages, and -inaccessible rocks to secure their lives and plunder? - -On the 4th of June we crossed the Ramee, a tributary river of the -Platte.[111] About forty tents erected on its banks, served as -dwellings for a part of the tribe of the Sheyennes. These Indians are -distinguishable for their civility, their cleanly and decent habits. -The men, in general, are of good stature, and of great strength; their -nose is aquiline, and their chin strongly developed. The neighboring -nations consider them the most courageous warriors of the prairies. -Their history is the same as that of all the savages who have been -driven back into the West--they are only the shadow of the once -powerful nation of the Shaways, who formerly lived upon the banks of -the Red River. The Scioux, their irreconcilable enemies, forced them, -after a dreadful war, to pass over the Missouri, and to retreat behind -the Warrican, where they fortified themselves; but the conquerors -again attacked them, and drove them from [XXXIII] post to post, into -the midst of the Black Coasts, situate upon the waters of the Great -Sheyenne River.[112] In consequence of these reverses, their tribe, -reduced to two thousand souls, has lost even its name, being now -called Sheyennes, from the name of the river that protects the remnant -of the tribe. The Sheyennes have not since sought to form any fixed -establishment, lest the Scioux should come again to dispute with them -the lands which they might have chosen for their country. They live by -hunting, and follow the buffalo in his various migrations. - -The principal warriors of the nation invited me to a solemn banquet, -in which three of the great chief's best dogs were served up to do me -honor. I had half a one for my share. You may judge of my -embarrassment, when I tell you that I attended one of those feasts at -which every one is to eat all that is offered to him. Fortunately, one -may call to his aid another guest, provided that the request to -perform the kind office be accompanied by a present of tobacco. - -In our way from Ramee, the sojourn of the Sheyennes, to the Green -River, where the Flat Heads were waiting for me, we successively -passed the Black Hills, which owe this name not to the color of the -soil and rocks that form them, but to the sombre verdure of the cedars -and pines that shadow their sides; the Red Bute,[113] a central point -by which the savages are continually crossing, when emigrating to the -West, or going up towards the North; and the famous rock, -Independence, which is detached, like an outwork, from the immense -chain of mountains that divide North America. It might be called the -great registry of the desert, for on it may be read in large -characters the names of the several travellers who have visited the -Rocky Mountains. My name figures amongst so many others, as [XXXIV] -that of the first priest who has visited these solitary regions.[114] -These mountains have been designated the _back-bone_ of the world. In -fact a fitter appellation could not be given to these enormous masses -of granite, whose summit is elevated nearly twenty-four thousand feet -above the level of the sea; they are but rocks piled upon rocks. One -might think that he beheld the ruins of a world covered, if I may so -speak, with a winding-sheet of everlasting snow. - -I shall here interrupt the recital of my journey, to give a short -account of the different tribes of the mountains, and of the territory -they inhabit. I will join with my own personal observations the most -correct information that I could possibly obtain. - -The Soshonees, or Root-diggers, appeared in great numbers at the -common rendezvous, where the deputations from all the tribes assemble -every year, to exchange the products of their rude industry. They -inhabit the southern part of the Oregon, in the vicinity of -California. Their population, consisting of about ten thousand souls, -is divided into several parties, scattered up and down in the most -uncultivated quarter of the West. They are called Snakes, because in -their indigence they are reduced, like such reptiles, to burrow in the -earth and live upon roots. They would have no other food if some -hunting parties did not occasionally pass beyond the mountains in -pursuit of the buffalo, while a part of the tribe proceeds along the -banks of the Salmon River, to make provision for the winter, at the -season when the fish come up from the sea.[115] Three hundred of their -warriors wished, in honor of the whites, to go through a sort of -military parade: they were hideously painted, armed with their clubs, -and covered over with feathers, pearls, wolves' tails, the teeth and -claws of animals and similar strange ornaments, with which each of -them [XXXV] had decked himself, according to his caprice. Such as had -received wounds in battle, or slain the enemies of their tribe, showed -ostentatiously their scars, and had floating, in the form of a -standard, the scalps which they won from the conquered. After having -rushed in good order, and at full gallop, upon our camp, as if to take -it by assault, they went several times round it, uttering at -intervals cries of joy. They at length dismounted, and came and gave -their hands to all the whites in token of union and friendship. - -Whilst I was at the rendezvous, the Snakes were preparing for an -expedition against the Black-Feet. When a chief is about to wage war, -he announces his intention to his young warriors in the following -manner. On the evening before his departure, he makes his farewell -dance before each cabin; and everywhere receives tobacco, or some -other present. His friends wish him great success, scalps, horses, and -a speedy return. If he brings back women as prisoners, he delivers -them as a prey to the wives, mothers, and sisters of his soldiers, who -kill them with the hatchet or knife, after having vented against their -unhappy captives the most outrageous insults: "Why are we unable," -howl these furies, "to devour the heart of thy children, and bathe in -the blood of thy nation!" - -At the death of a chief, or other warrior, renowned for his bravery, -his wives, children, and relatives cut off their hair: this is a great -mourning with the savages. The loss of a parent would seem but little -felt, if it only caused his family to shed tears; it must be deplored -with blood; and the deeper the incisions, the more sincere is the -affection for the deceased. "An overwhelming sorrow," they say, -"cannot be vented unless through large wounds." I know not how to -reconcile these sentiments respecting the dead with their conduct -towards the living. Would you believe [XXXVI] that these men, so -inconsolable in their mourning, abandon, without pity, to the -ferocious beasts of the desert, the old men, the sick, and all those -whose existence would be a burden to them? - -The funeral of a Snake warrior is always performed by the destruction of -whatever he possessed; nothing, it seems, should survive him but the -recollection of his exploits. After piling up in his hut all the -articles he made use of, they cut away the props of the cabin, and set -the whole on fire. The Youts, who form a separate people, although they -belong to the tribe of the Soshonees,[116] throw the body of the -deceased upon the funeral pile, together with a hecatomb of his best -horses. The moment that the smoke rises in thick clouds, they think that -the soul of the savage is flying towards the region of spirits, borne by -the _manes_ of his faithful coursers; and, in order to quicken their -flight, they, all together, raise up frightful yells. But in general, -instead of burning the body, they fasten it upon his favourite charger, -as on a day of battle; the animal is then led to the edge of a -neighboring river, the warriors are drawn up in a semicircular form, in -order to prevent his escape; and then, with a shower of arrows, and a -universal hurra, they force him to plunge into the current which is to -engulf him. They next, with redoubled shouts, recommend him to transport -his master without delay to the land of spirits.[117] - -[XXXVII] The Sampeetches are the next neighbours of the Snakes.[118] -There is not, perhaps, in the whole world, a people in a [XXXVIII] -deeper state of wretchedness and corruption; the French commonly -designate them "_the people deserving of pity_," and this appellation is -most appropriate.[119] Their lands are uncultivated heaths; their -habitations are holes in the rocks, or the natural crevices of the -ground, and their only arms, arrows and sharp-pointed sticks. Two, -three, or at most four of them may be seen in company, roving over their -sterile plains in quest of ants and grasshoppers, on which they feed. -When they find some insipid root, or a few nauseous seeds, they make, as -they imagine, a delicious repast. They are so timid, that it is -difficult to get near them; the appearance of a stranger alarms them; -and conventional signs quickly spread the news amongst them. Every one, -thereupon, hides himself in a hole; and in an instant this miserable -people disappear and vanish like a shadow. Sometimes, however, they -venture out of their hiding places, and offer their newly born infants -to the whites in exchange for some trifling articles. - -I have had the consolation of baptizing some of these unfortunate -beings, who have related to me the sad circumstances which I have just -mentioned. It would be easy to find guides among these new converts, -and be introduced [XXXIX] by them to their fellow countrymen, to -announce to them the Gospel, and thus to render their condition, if -not happy, at least supportable through the hope of a better futurity. -If God allows me to return to the Rocky Mountains, and my superiors -approve of it, I shall feel happy to devote myself to the instruction -of these _pitiable people_. - -The country of the Utaws is situated to the east and south east of the -Soshonees, at the sources of the Rio Colorado. The population consists -of about 4,000 souls. Mildness, affability, simplicity of manners, -hospitality towards strangers, constant union amongst themselves, form -the happy traits in their character. They subsist by hunting and -fishing, and on fruits and roots; the climate is warm, and the land -very fit for cultivation. - -I shall join to this account a brief exposition of the belief of the -savages.[120] Their religious tenets are composed of a few primitive -truths and of gross errors: they believe in the existence of a Supreme -Being, the source of every good, and consequently that he alone is -adorable; they believe that he created whatever exists, and that his -providence over-rules the principal events of life, and that the -calamities which befall the human race are chastisements inflicted by -his justice on our perversity. They suppose, that with this, their -God, whom they call the _Great Spirit_, there exists an evil genius, -who so far abuses his power as to oppress the innocent with -calamities. They also believe in a future life, where every one shall -be treated according to his works; that the happiness reserved for the -virtuous will consist in the enjoyment of such goods as they most -anxiously desired upon earth; and that the wicked shall be punished by -suffering, without consolation, the torments invented by the spirit of -evil. According to their opinion, [XL] the soul, upon its entry into -the other world, resumes the form which our bodies have had in the -present life.[121] - -[XLI] What I am going to add applies chiefly to the tribe that I have -been lately instructing. Besides my escort of Flat Heads, I had also -with me an intrepid Fleming, John Baptist de Velder, who formerly -served as a grenadier under Napoleon. From the battle fields of Europe -he betook himself to the forests of the New World, where he has passed -thirty years of his life in pursuit of beavers and bears. During the -Missionary's journey, he was his devoted friend, and the faithful -companion of his dangers. He has now taken the resolution to traverse -the desert only as a guide to the apostles of the Gospel. He had -almost forgotten his native language, except his prayers, and a hymn -in honour of Mary, which his mother taught him when a child, and which -he daily recited, when engaged in the adventurous chase. - -I found the Flat Heads and the Ponderas assembled, to the number of -sixteen hundred, in the beautiful Peters' Valley. You know already the -reception they gave me, and I shall never forget it. The enthusiastic -joy with which they welcomed my arrival--the exulting shouts of the -young warriors--the tears of the aged, returning thanks to the Great -Spirit, for having granted them the favour to see and hear a -Black-Gown before their death--that scene, I repeat it, I can never -forget. I shall not recount the religious exercises of my mission, as -the consoling results of them have been already communicated to you. -You will, [XLII] perhaps, take an interest in reading the notes I have -collected regarding the character and habits of my neophytes, during a -sojourn of three months amongst them; living like them, by the chase -and on roots, having only a buffalo's hide for my bed, passing my -nights under the canopy of heaven, when the weather was calm, or -taking shelter under a small tent against the fury of the tempest. - -With regard to the character of these Indians, it is entirely pacific. -They never fight, except in circumstances of lawful defence; but they -are, unfortunately, often reduced to this said necessity, in consequence -of the warlike temper of the Black Feet tribe, who are their neighbours -and implacable enemies. That marauding people appear to live only for -murder and pillage.[122] They are the terror of the savages of the -west, who endeavour, as much as possible, to avoid their fatal -encounter. But should the Flat Heads, notwithstanding such precaution, -be forced to fight, their courage is as conspicuous as their love of -peace; for they rush impetuously on their adversaries, whom they prevent -from escaping, and generally make them pay dear for their cruel attacks. - -It is a truth which has become proverbial in the mountains, that one -Flat Head, or one of the Ear Rings, is worth four Black Feet. If the -band of the latter meets a detachment of Flat Heads, of equal or -superior numbers, they forthwith appear disposed for peace, unfurl a -standard, and present a pipe, in token of friendship. The Flat Heads -always accept these tokens of amity; but they take care to make their -enemies sensible that the motives which influence their conduct on -such occasions are fully understood. "Black Foot," they say, "I take -your pipe, but be assured that I am aware that your heart is disposed -for war, and that your hands are stained with murder. Let us smoke -[XLIII] together, as you desire it, though I am convinced that blood -will soon be made to flow." - -The greatest reproach that could be made to the Flat Heads was their -excessive love for games of chance, in which they often risked all -they possessed. The Indians of Colombia carried this passion to an -almost inconceivable degree; for, after losing their goods, they would -stake their own persons, at first playing for one hand, then for the -other; and if the game continued unfavorable to them, they played -successively for every one of their limbs, and, lastly, for their -head, which, if they lost, they, together with their wives and -children, became slaves for life. - -The government of the nation is confided to chiefs, who have merited -this title by their experience and exploits, and who possess more or -less influence, according to the degree of wisdom and courage they have -displayed in council or battle. The chief does not command, but seeks to -persuade; no tribute is paid to him, but, on the contrary, it is one of -the appendages of his dignity to contribute more than any other to the -public expense. He is generally one of the poorest in the village, in -consequence of giving away his goods for the relief of his indigent -brethren, or for the general interests of his tribe. Although his power -has nothing imperious in it, his authority is not the less absolute; and -it may, without exaggeration, be asserted, that his wishes are complied -with as soon as known. Should any mutinous individual be deaf to his -personal command, the public voice would soon call him to account for -his obstinacy. I know not of any government where so much personal -liberty is united with greater subordination and devotedness. - -All the mountain tribes differ somewhat from each other in their -dress. The men wear a long robe, made of the [XLIV] skins of the -antelope or sheep, with shoes and gaiters of doe or dog's skin, and a -buffalo hide cloak, covered with woollen cloth, painted in various -colours. The Indian loves to add ornament to ornament: his long hair -is decked with various kinds of feathers, and a great number of -ribbands, rings, and shells. In order to give suppleness to his limbs, -he rubs his body with bear's grease, over which he spreads a thick -layer of vermillion. Children under seven years of age are scarcely -ever clothed, except in winter; they are afterwards dressed in a sort -of tunic, made of skins, which is open under the arms. They spend -whole days amusing themselves in the water, and sometimes even in the -mire. The women wear a large pelerine, adorned with elks' teeth and -several rows of pearls. Amongst the Arikaras, their grand dress -consists of a fine chemise, with doe-skin shoes and gaiters, -embroidered in brilliant colours. A quiver filled with arrows is -suspended from the left shoulder; and a cap of eagles' feathers adorns -the brow of warriors and huntsmen. He that has killed an enemy on his -own land is distinguished by having the tails of wolves tied on his -legs; the bear-killer wears, for a trophy, the claws of that animal as -a necklace; the privilege of a savage who has taken in battle one or -more scalps, is to have a red hand painted on his mouth, to show that -he has drunk the blood of his enemies. The Indian is not less proud of -his horse, the companion of all his excursions and of all his dangers, -and the friend to which he becomes extremely attached. The head, -breast, and the flanks of the noble animal are covered with scarlet -cloth, adorned with pearls and fringes, to which are attached a -multitude of little round bells. Cleanliness is a quality not -possessed by the savage, nor are the women more particular in this -respect than the men; for they never wash their pots or saucepans; and -at [XLV] their meals they often make use of their straw hats, which -have no leaf, instead of bowls.[123] - -As I before mentioned, the only prevailing vice that I found amongst -the Flat Heads was a passion for games of chance--it has since been -unanimously abolished. On the other hand, they are scrupulously honest -in buying and selling. They have never been accused of stealing. -Whenever any lost article is found, it is immediately given to the -chief, who informs the tribe of the fact, and restores it to the -lawful owner. Detraction is a vice unknown even amongst the women; and -falsehood is particularly odious to them. A forked-tongued (a liar) -they say, is the scourge of a people. Quarrels and violent anger are -severely punished. Whenever any one happens to fall into trouble, his -neighbors hasten to his aid. The gaiety of their disposition adds a -charm to their union. Even the stranger is received as a friend; every -tent is open to him, and that which he prefers is considered the most -honored. In the Rocky Mountains they know not the use of locks or -bolts.[124] - -In looking at this picture, which is in nowise overdrawn, you will -perhaps ask, are these the people whom civilized men call barbarians? -We have been too long erroneously accustomed to judge of all the -savages by the Indians on the frontiers, who have learned the vices of -the whites. And even with respect to the latter, instead of treating -them with disdain, it would perhaps be more just not to reproach them -with a degradation, of which the example has been given them, and -which has been promoted by selfish and deplorable cupidity. - -The country inhabited by the Flat Heads is as picturesque as their lives -are innocent. We often met in the neighborhood of the several -encampments of the tribe, majestic torrents, forests with trees that -have been growing for ages, [XLVI] and pastures covered with the -_traveller's tea_, which, although trampled by numberless horses, -embalms the air with its delightful fragrance.[125] We continually -beheld a grand succession of lofty mountains; some delighted the sight -by their blooming verdure and the imposing appearance of the woods that -crowned their summits, while others, as red as brick, bore the -impressions of some great convulsion of nature. At the base of the -latter may be seen piled up layers of lava, and at their tops the -ancient craters are easily distinguished. One day, as the tribe was -proceeding towards the banks of the lake Henry,[126] I felt a desire to -ascend to the top of a mountain, situate between the waters of the -Colombia and the Missouri, in the hope of discovering the exact place -where those two great rivers rise, and the distance between them. I -succeeded in finding one of their sources: they form two torrents, -which, being divided where they rise, by the distance of scarce a -hundred paces, continually diverge as they descend towards the -plain.[127] Their course over the rocks presents an enchanting sight: -they do not flow along, but roll from cascade to cascade; and nothing is -comparable to the beauty of their bounding waters, except the distant -noise of their fall, repeated by the echoes of the solitary mountains. - -Finding it impossible to get to the highest top of the mountain that -overlooks these sources, I stopped when I had reached an elevation of -5,000 feet.[128] I then cast my eyes upon the immense region that lay -extended at my feet; I contemplated to myself all the tribes upon the -banks of the Missouri, as far as Council Bluffs: I thought on my dear -colleagues, who are sent by Providence, like angels of salvation, -amongst these savages hordes; and I considered, with mixed feelings of -joy and grief, their labors, consolations, and hopes, and how -disproportionate is their number [XLVII] to the people requiring the -aid of their ministry. Kind people, what futurity awaits thee? Holy -Missioners, what recompense is reserved for your self-devotion? I -remembered that they and I have in heaven a powerful intercessor, in -the illustrious founder of our Society; and in order to interest him -in our dear missions, from the summit of that mountain from which I -could nearly view them all, I placed them under his protection. I -would fain persuade myself that he will not prove forgetful of his -followers, who are endeavoring to plant the Gospel in these countries -where it has hitherto been unknown. Additional apostolic teachers will -come hither to assist us by their zeal, before the vices of -civilization and the proselytism of error have multiplied the -obstacles to the propagation of that faith which all the savages so -anxiously desire to know, and which, like the Flat Heads and the -Ponderas, they would practise with gratitude and fidelity. - -The 27th of August was the day I fixed upon for my departure.[129] -Seventeen warriors, chosen from amongst the bravest of the two -nations, and under the command of three chiefs, arrived early in the -morning, before the entrance of my cabin.[130] The council of the -ancients appointed them to [XLVIII] serve as my escort while I should -be in the country of the Black Feet and of the Crows.[131] Of these -two tribes, so hostile to the whites, the former never gives them -quarter, and the latter will sometimes spare their lives only to leave -them, after having robbed them of every thing, to die of hunger in the -desert. As we were liable, every instant, to fall into some ambush, we -had scouts sent in all directions to reconnoitre the place and examine -the defiles; and the smallest trace of a man having passed before us, -was minutely examined. And here we cannot sufficiently admire the -wonderful sagacity with which Providence has endowed the savage: he -will tell you, from the mere footmarks, the exact day on which the -Indian had erected his tent on the spot, and how many men and horses -had been there; whether it was a detachment of warriors or a company -of hunters, and the nation to which they belong. We selected, every -evening, a favorable site for our camp, and raised around it a little -fort with the trunks of dry trees, in order to protect ourselves -against any surprise during the night. - -[XLIX] This region is the retreat of grizzly bears, the most terrible -animals of the desert, whose strength equals their daring and -voracity. I have been assured that by a single stroke of his paw, one -of these animals tore away four ribs of a buffalo, which fell dead at -his feet. He seldom attacks man, unless when he has been surprised and -wounded.--An Indian, however, belonging to my escort, in passing by a -thick wood of sallow trees, was assailed by one of these ferocious -beasts, that sprung furiously upon his horse, fixed his formidable -claws in his back, and brought him to the ground. The horseman -fortunately was not mounted at the time, and having his gun in his -hand, the bear instantly disappeared in the depths of the forest. - -On the 5th of September we crossed a defile, which had been passed -shortly before by a numerous troop of horsemen. Whether they were -allies or enemies, we had no means to discover. I will here observe, -that in these immense solitudes, although the howling of wolves, the -hissing of venomous serpents, the roaring of the tiger and the bear be -calculated to affright, yet this terror is nothing in comparison with -the dread excited in the traveller's soul, upon seeing the fresh -tracks of men and horses, or columns of smoke rising in the -neighborhood. At such a sight, the escort at once assembles and -deliberates; each one examines his fire-arms, sharpens his knife and -the point of his arrow, and makes, in a word, every preparation for a -resistance, even to death; for, to surrender, in such circumstances, -would be to expose one's-self to perish in the most frightful -torments. The path that we were following led us to a heap of stones, -piled upon a small eminence; they were stained with blood, lately -spilt; my escort examined them with a mournful attention. The -principal chief, a man possessed of much sense, said to me, in a -solemn [L] tone, "Father, I think I ought to give you an explanation -of what we are looking at. The Crows are not far off: in two hours we -shall see them. If I be not mistaken, we are upon one of their fields -of battle; and here their nation must have met with some great loss. -This monument has been erected to the memory of the warriors, who fell -beneath the blows of their enemies. Here the mothers, wives and -daughters of them that died, have been weeping over their tombs. It is -customary for the women to tear their faces, to make deep cuts in -their legs and arms, and to water these tumulary piles with streams of -blood. Had we arrived sooner, we should have heard their cries and -funeral lamentations." He was not mistaken, as we immediately -perceived a considerable troop of savages at a league's distance. They -were the Crows, who were returning to their camp, after having paid -the tribute of blood to forty of their warriors, who were massacred -two years before by the tribe of the Black Feet. Being at present the -allies of the Flat Heads, they received us with transports of joy. -There were groups of women with them, and so disfigured as to excite -both pity and horror. This scene of grief is renewed every year, when -they pass near the tombs of their relations.[132] - -The chiefs of the Crows wished to cement, by a great feast, their -alliance with the tribe of our neophytes. As the language of the two -nations is very different, the conversation was made by signs.[133] I -shall endeavor to describe this dumb language, by mentioning to you -how a bargain, at which I was present, was concluded. A young Crow, of -gigantic size, and clad in his best garments, advanced into the midst -of the assembly, leading his horse by the bridle, and placed him -before the Flat Head, with whose horse he offered to make an exchange. -The Flat Head took no notice of him, and kept in an immovable -attitude. The [LI] Crow then placed, successively, at the feet of the -seller, his gun, his scarlet mantle, his ornaments, his gaiters, and, -lastly, his shoes. The Flat Head then took the horse by the bridle, -picked up the clothes, &c., and the sale was concluded without saying -a word. The Crow, though so divested, joyfully mounted his new -courser, and rode several times round the camp, shouting in triumph, -and putting his horse through all his paces. - -The principal wealth of the savages of the west consists in horses, of -which each chief and warrior possesses a great number, that may be -seen grazing about their camp. The horses of the Crows are principally -of the Maroon race of the prairies.[134] They have also many horses -which they have stolen from the Scioux, the Sheyennes, and other -Indians of the south-west, which they had in their turn stolen from -the Spaniards of Mexico. The Crows are considered the most -indefatigable marauders of the desert; they traverse the mountains in -all directions, bringing to one side what they have taken at the -other. The name of Atsharoke, or Crow, has been given to them on -account of their robberies.[135] They are practised from their -infancy in this sort of larceny, and they acquire a surprising -dexterity in it; their glory augments with the number of their -captures, so that a finished robber is in their eyes a hero. I -accompanied for two days, these savages, who, I think, were the finest -Indians I had met in all my travels. They passed the whole time in -rejoicings and feasting. You will not be scandalized, I trust, when I -tell you that I was present at twenty different banquets. I was -scarcely seated in one cabin, when I was called to partake of the -festive entertainment in another. - -We arrived, at last, at the first fort belonging to the Fur Company. -The Americans, who have here a trading post, received us most -cordially. At this place I was to part with [LII] my faithful Flat -Heads. I therefore told them, that, having before me a country still -more exposed to the incursions of the Black Feet, the Assiniboins, the -Big Bellies, the Arikaras, and Scioux, all of whom are declared -enemies of their tribe, I would no longer peril their lives, on -account of my personal safety; that as for my life, I placed it in the -hands of God, and that I felt a persuasion it would be preserved, in -order that, accompanied by new Missionaries, I might immediately -return to them. I exhorted them for the last time to remain faithful -to the Great Spirit. We embraced each other, wishing, mutually, a -happy return; and shortly after, accompanied by my faithful Fleming, I -disappeared from their sight amidst the solitary defiles. We were to -pass over several hundred miles of country, where no road is yet -traced, and, like the navigator on the boundless ocean, with no other -guide than the compass. For a long time we followed the course of the -Yellow Stone, except when perpendicular rocks arrested our progress -and obliged us to take a circuit. In many places we discovered forts -which the savages are in the habit of raising for defence, or for -concealing themselves, when they are at war, or waiting for their -prey. Perhaps, at the moment of our passing, they were not without -enemies. What a solitude, with its horrors and dangers! but it -possesses one real advantage: with death constantly before our eyes, -we irresistibly feel, without the possibility of illusion, that we are -entirely in the hands of God, without any support but Him, without any -other refuge than his paternal providence; it is then easy to make to -Him the sacrifice of a life which belongs less to us than to the first -savage who wishes to take it, and to form the most generous -resolutions of which man is capable. It was really the best spiritual -retreat that I made in my life. - -The second day of the journey, on awaking, I perceived, at the -distance of a quarter of a mile, the smoke of a great [LIII] fire--a -point of a rock was all that separated us from a detachment of -Indians. Without a moment's delay we saddled our horses and set off, -galloping with all speed along the ravines and beds of dried up -torrents. We rode that day, without resting, more than fifteen -leagues, and we did not encamp until two hours after sunset, lest the -savages, having observed our track, should think of pursuing us.--The -same fear prevented us from lighting a fire, which obliged us to -dispense with supper. I wrapped myself in my blanket, stretched myself -on the grass beside my companion, and having recommended myself to -God, I endeavored to beguile hunger by sleep. My grenadier, more -courageous than I, soon snored like a steam engine in full play. - -The next morning we were on our way at day-break; we advanced with -caution, for the country appeared full of danger. Towards mid-day we -met a new subject of alarm--we found a buffalo, which had been killed -about two hours previously. We thrilled at the sight, when we thought -that the enemy was not far off; and yet we had reason to thank the -Lord for having prepared the food for our evening meal. The following -night we encamped among rocks, which are the retreat of tigers and -bears. I have already said that the dens of the wild beasts inspire -incomparably less terror to the traveller than the hut of the savage. -I this time slept heavily and well. We always commenced our journey -early in the morning, and each day had new dangers to face, and to -meet occasionally the fresh traces of men and horses. One day we had -to cross a field of tents, which had been recently abandoned; the -fires were not quite extinguished; but happily we met no one. At -length we saw again the Missouri at the very place, where an hour -before, a hundred families of the Assiniboins had passed over it. The -foregoing is only a sketch of the [LIV] long and perilous journey -which we made from the fort of the Crows to fort Union, situated at -the mouth of the Yellow Stone river.[136] - -All the country watered by this river abounds in game; I do not think -that there is in all America another place better suited for hunting: -we were continually amidst vast herds of buffalos; we frequently -discovered groups of majestic elks bounding over the plains, whilst -clouds, if I may say so, of antelopes were flying before us with the -swiftness of the wind. The Ashata, or Big Horn, alone appeared not to -be disturbed at our presence: we saw them in groups, reposing on the -edges of the precipices, or sporting on the points of the steep rocks. -The black-tailed roebuck, so richly dressed in its brown coat, -frequently excited our admiration, by its elegant shape, and abrupt, -animated movements, in which it appears scarcely to touch the earth -with its feet.[137] I have already spoken of the grizzly bears, which -are here to be met with in abundance, as well as the wolves, panthers, -badgers and wild cats. Often the traveller sees the prairie hen and -the cock of the mountain start up from the midst of the heath. The -lakes and rivers are covered with swans, geese and ducks: the -industrious beaver, the otter, and the muskrat, together with the -fishes, are in peaceable possession of their solitary waters. - -The Arikaras and the Big Bellies, who had been described to us as most -dangerous, received us as friends, whenever we met them on our way. -Before setting out for war, they observe a strict fast, or rather they -abstain from all food for four days. During this interval their -imagination is excited to madness; and, either from the effect of -weakness, or the warlike projects which fill their minds, they pretend -that they have extraordinary visions. The elders and sages of the tribe -are called upon to interpret these reveries; [LV] and they pronounce -them to be more or less favorable to the undertaking. Their explanations -are received as oracles, according to which the expedition is -scrupulously regulated. Whilst the preparatory fast endures, the -warriors make incisions in their bodies, and bury in the flesh, under -the shoulder-blade, pieces of wood, to which they attach leather thongs, -by which they are suspended from a stake, fixed horizontally over the -brink of a chasm a hundred and fifty feet deep. They even sometimes cut -off one or two fingers, which they offer as a sacrifice to the Great -Spirit, in order that they may return loaded with scalps.[138] - -In a recent expedition against the Scioux, the Arikaras killed twenty -warriors of the hostile tribe, and piled up the corpses in the middle -of their village. The solemn dance of victory then commenced, at which -men, women, the aged, and children assisted. After having celebrated, -at length, the exploits of the brave, they rushed, like wild beasts, -upon the mangled and bloody bodies of the Scioux, parcelled them -amongst themselves, and fixed the hideous trophies to the end of long -poles, which they carried in proud triumph around the village. - -It is impossible to form an idea of the cruelty that presides over the -barbarous revenge of those tribes, who are constantly occupied in -mutual destruction. As soon as the savages learn that the warriors of -a rival nation have set out for the chase, they unexpectedly attack -the enemy's defenceless camp, and massacre the women, old men, and -children in the cradle. Wo to the men who are spared; their agony is -deferred in order to render it more terrible. At other times they lie -in wait in their enemy's path, and allow the detachment to pass on, -until they have in their power such a portion of it as must infallibly -become their [LVI] prey; whereupon they raise the death cry, and pour -upon the enemy a shower of balls, arrows, and pieces of rock; this -movement is the signal of extermination: the battle becomes a -massacre: the sights of horror which would freeze the heart of any -civilized man, serve only to inflame the fury of the savage: he -outrages his prostrate rival, tramples on his mangled carcass, tears -off his hair, wallows in his blood with the delight of a tiger, and -often devours the quivering limbs of the fallen, while they have -scarcely ceased to exist. - -Such of the vanquished as have not fallen in the combat are reserved to -adorn the triumph, and are conducted prisoners to the village of the -conquerors. The women come to meet the returning warriors, amongst whom -they seek with anxious looks their husbands and brothers: if they -discover them not, they express their grief by terrific howling. One of -the warriors soon commands silence; he then gives the details of the -fortunate expedition; describes the place selected for the ambuscade, -the consternation of the waylaid tribe, the bravery of the assailants, -and recounts the number of the dead and of the captives. To this -recital, which is made with all the intoxication of victory, succeeds -the calling over the names of the warriors: their absence tells they are -no more. The piercing cries of the women are then renewed; and their -despair presents a scene of frenzy and grief, which exceeds all -imagination. The last ceremony is the proclaiming of victory. Every one -instantly forgets his own misfortunes; the glory of the nation becomes -the happiness of all; by an inconceivable transition, they pass in a -moment from frantic grief to the most extravagant joy. - -I know not what terms to use in order to describe the torments which -they inflict on the wretched prisoners: one [LVII] plucks off their -nails, another tears away their flesh; red hot irons are applied to -every part of their bodies; they are flayed alive, and their palpitating -flesh is devoured as food.[139] The women, who, in other nations, are -more accessible to the feelings of pity than the men, here shew -themselves more thirsty for revenge, and more ingenious in the barbarous -refinement of cruelty. Whilst this horrible drama goes on, the chiefs -are gravely seated about the stake at which the victim is writhing. The -latter appears to be only intent on conquering his anguish: often has -the prisoner been seen to brave his executioners, and with a stoic -coolness exclaim, "I fear not death; those who are afraid of your -torments are cowards; a woman of my tribe would despise them. Shame upon -my enemies; they have not even the power to force from me a tear. In -order to take me, they supplied their weakness by strategy; and now, to -revenge themselves, they have assembled an entire people against one -man, and they are unable to triumph over him--the cowards! Oh, if they -were in my place, how I would devour them, how I would sip from their -accursed skulls the last drop of their blood!" - -The great village of the Arikaras is only ten miles distant from that of -the Mandans. I was surprised to see around their habitations large and -well cultivated fields of maiz. The latter Indians still manufacture -earthen vases,[140] similar to those which are found in the ancient -tombs of the savages of the United States, and which, according to -antiquaries, are presumed to have belonged to a race much more ancient -than that which now peoples the desert of the west. The jugglers of the -Arikaras enjoy a good reputation, and exercise considerable influence -over their credulous countrymen; they pretend to have communication with -the spirit [LVIII] of darkness.[141] They will fearlessly plunge their -arm into boiling water, having previously rubbed it with a certain root; -they also swallow, without any ill effect, substances on fire, as well -as shoot arrows against themselves. The following is one of the most -singular of their tricks, and one which the Indian sorcerer was -unwilling to perform in my presence, because _my medicine_ (meaning my -religion) _was superior to his_. He had his hands, arms, legs, and feet, -tied with well-knotted cords; he was then enclosed in a net, and again -in a buffalo's skin. The person who tied him had promised him a horse if -he extricated himself from his bonds. In a minute after, the savage, to -the amazement of the spectators, stood before him perfectly free. The -commandant of the neighbouring fort offered him another horse, if he -would reveal to him his secret. The sorcerer consented, saying, "Have -thyself tied; I have at my command ten invisible spirits: I will detach -three of them and put them at thy service: fear them not, they will -accompany thee everywhere, and be thy tutelary genii." The commandant -was disconcerted, or unwilling to make the trial, and thus the matter -terminated.[142] - -The last observation which I have to make concerns the redoubtable -tribe of the Scioux. Whoever, amongst these savages, dies in a quarrel -provoked by drunkenness, or as [LIX] the victim of the revenge of a -fellow countryman, receives not the ordinary honours of burial; he is -interred without ceremony and without provisions. The most glorious -death for them is to expire in fighting the enemies of their nation. -Their bodies are, in that case, rolled in buffaloes' skins and placed -upon a raised platform, near their camps or highways.[143] From some -conversations I have had with the chiefs of this tribe, I have every -reason to believe that a mission would produce amongst them the most -consoling effects. - -I arrived, at length, at Council Bluffs. It would be vain for me to -attempt to express what I felt, on finding myself again in the midst of -my brethren: I had travelled two thousand Flemish leagues amongst the -most barbarous nations, where I had no sooner escaped one danger than I -met with another. From Council Bluffs to Westport, a frontier city of -the Missouri, I pursued my journey without obstacle or accident. At -Independence,[144] I took the public conveyance, and on the eve of the -new year, I embraced my dear Fathers of the University of St. Louis. - -Recommending myself to your prayers, - - I am yours, &c. - - P. J. DE SMET. - -FOOTNOTES: - -[106] Jean Philip von Roothan, born in Amsterdam (1785) of Catholic -parents, entered a Jesuit novitiate in Russia (1804) and was educated at -the college of Polotsk. He conducted a mission in Switzerland, and was -the first superior of the province of Turin, when in 1829 he was elected -twenty-first general of the order of Jesuits, an office in which he -continued until his death in 1853. He was much interested in the -over-seas missions, in 1833 issuing an encyclical on their behalf.--ED. - -[107] The reader will note that this letter concerns itself with the -same journey as that described in the previous epistle--the first -visit to the Flatheads and return (1840). De Smet wrote several -descriptions of this journey; that contained in his _Voyages aux -Montagnes Rocheuses_ is more detailed than either presented herein. A -translation of the latter is given in Chittenden and Richardson, who -do not reprint this letter to Roothan.--ED. - -[108] For a brief description of Nebraska or Platte (flat or shallow) -River, see our volume xiv, p. 219, note 170. It is the common belief -that Nebraska is the aboriginal term for Platte, signifying "Shallow." -De Smet's alternative, "Bighorn," is not found elsewhere. See also -Nebraska Historical Society _Transactions_, i, p. 73--ED. - -[109] For the route of the first portion of the Oregon trail, over which -De Smet went out, see Wyeth's _Oregon_, in our volume xxi, p. 49, note -30. There were several fording places for the South Platte, depending -upon the state of the river. In subsequent pages, De Smet gives a vivid -description of the difficulties and dangers of crossing this stream. See -also Frémont's account in _Senate Docs._, 28 Cong., 2 sess., ii.--ED. - -[110] See Washington Irving, _Astoria_ (Philadelphia, 1841), chapter -xxii.--ED. - -[111] Laramie River, one of the principal tributaries of the North -Platte, rises in northern Colorado, flows north through Alba County, -Wyoming, and breaking through the Laramie Mountains turns northeast -into the Platte. The name is derived from a French Canadian trapper, -Jacques Laramie, who about 1820 was killed upon its upper waters, by -the Arapaho.--ED. - -[112] This information as to the origin of the Cheyenne is derived from -Lewis's _Statistical View_ (London, 1807). See _Original Journals of the -Lewis and Clark Expedition_, vi, p. 100. It is now conceded that the -Cheyenne, with their kindred tribe the Arapaho, probably once dwelt -about the waters of the St. Croix River, in Wisconsin. Their tribal name -(according to Lewis) was Sharha (Shaway), possibly a variant of the -Sioux form Shaiela or Shaiena, whence their present name. Apparently -they were driven northwestward from their Wisconsin habitat, and first -settled upon Cheyenne River, North Dakota--a tributary of Red River of -the North. It is conjectured that they were forced southwest by the -Sioux. The Warreconne, where they made their final stand, is the present -Big Beaver, in Emmons County, North Dakota. According to Cheyenne -tradition, they were formerly an agricultural people, forced into -nomadic habits by these various removals. - -The term "Black Coasts" is an incorrect translation of "Côtes Noirs," -Black Hills. See our volume xxiii, p. 244, note 204.--ED. - -[113] For Red Buttes see Townsend's _Narrative_, in our volume xxi, p. -183, including note 31.--ED. - -[114] For Independence Rock see Wyeth's _Oregon_, in our volume xxi, -p. 53, note 34.--ED. - -[115] For a sketch of this river see Wyeth's _Oregon_, in our volume -xxi, p. 69, note 45.--ED. - -[116] The Ute belong, as De Smet says, to the Shoshonean stock, and -originally occupied the country directly south of the habitat of the -Snake Indians, or Shoshoni proper, which extended from the Rocky -Mountains to California. The Ute were divided into numerous bands, -differently classified by various authorities, and when first known to -the whites numbered about four thousand souls. There are now over two -thousand on two reservations--the Southern Ute in southwestern Colorado, -and the other bands on the Unita reservation, in northeastern Utah.--ED. - -[117] Although this mode of funeral exists amongst the Snakes, it is -not, however, common to all the Indian tribes. Amongst the people who -live on the borders of lake Abbitibbi, in Lower Canada, as soon as a -warrior happens to die, they wrap the body in a shroud, lower it into -a grave about a foot and a half deep, and place alongside it a pot, a -knife, a gun, and such other articles as are of prime necessity to the -savages. Some days after the burial, the relations of the deceased -assemble to smoke over his grave. They then hang presents upon the -nearest tree, particularly tobacco for the soul of the deceased, which -is to come occasionally and smoke upon the grave, where the body is -laid. They suppose that the poor soul is wandering not far from -thence, until the body becomes putrified; after which it flies up to -heaven. The body of a wicked man, they say, takes a longer time to -corrupt than that of a good man; which prolongs his punishment. Such, -in their opinion, is the only punishment of a bad life. - -In Columbia we find that a different custom prevails. There, so soon -as the person expires, his eyes are bound with a necklace of glass -beads; his nostrils filled with aiqua (a shell used by the Indians in -place of money), and he is clothed in his best suit and wrapped in a -winding-sheet. Four posts, fixed in the ground, and joined by cross -beams, support the ærial tomb of the savage: the tomb itself is a -canoe, placed at a certain height from the ground, upon the beams I -have just mentioned. The body is deposited therein, with the face -downwards, and the head turned in the same direction as the course of -the river. Some mats thrown upon the canoe finish the ceremony. -Offerings, of which the value varies with the rank of the deceased, -are next presented to him; and his gun, powder-horn and shot-bag are -placed at his sides. - -Articles of less value, such as a wooden bowl, a large pot, a hatchet, -arrows, &c. are hung upon poles fixed around the canoe. Next comes the -tribute of wailing, which husbands and wives owe to each other, and to -their deceased parents, and also to their children: for a month, and -often longer, they continually shed, night and day, tears, accompanied -with cries and groans, that are heard at a great distance. If the -canoe happen to fall down in course of time, the remains of the -deceased are collected, covered again with a winding-sheet, and -deposited in another canoe.--_Extract of a letter from M. Demers, -Missionary among the Savages._ - -Some individuals of other tribes, seen by Father de Smet on his tour, -are the following: The Kootenays and the Carriers, with a population -of 4,000 souls, the Savages of the Lake, who are computed at about -500, the Cauldrons 600, the Okinaganes 1,100, the Jantons and Santees -300, the Jantonnees 4,500, the Black-Feet Scioux 1,500, the -Two-Cauldrons 800, the Ampapas 2,000, the Burned 2,500, the Lack-Bows -1,000, the Minikomjoos 2,000, the Ogallallees 1,500, the Saoynes -2,000, the Unkepatines 2,000, the Mandans, Big-Bellies, and Arikaras, -who have formed of their remnants one tribe, 3,000, the Pierced-Noses, -2,500, the Kayuses 2,000, the Walla-Wallas 500, the Palooses 300, the -Spokanes 800, the Pointed-Hearts 700, the Crows, the Assinboins, the -Ottos, the Pawnees, the Santees, the Renards, the Aonays, the -Kikapoux, the Delawares, and the Shawanons, whose numbers are unknown. -The following are the names of the principal chiefs, who received the -Missionary in their tents: The Big-Face and Walking-Bear, the -Patriarchs of the Flat-Heads and Ponderas; the Iron-Crow, the -Good-Heart, the Dog's-Hand, the Black-Eyes, the Man that does not eat -cow's flesh, and the Warrior who walks barefooted; the last named is -chief of the Black-Feet Scioux.--DE SMET. - -[118] "Sampeetch" was a term applied to a small band of Ute dwelling in -central Utah along the river now known as San Pitch, with a valley and -mountain ranges of the same designation. The name was frequently used in -descriptions of Ute bands until about 1870, when these Indians, reduced -in number to less than two hundred, were segregated upon the Unita -reservation and lost their distinctive appellation.--ED. - -[119] In _Voyages aux Montagnes Rocheuses_, containing the French -original of this letter, Father de Smet classes the Paiute and Yampah -Ute with the Sampeetches as the tribes called by the French _les -Dignes de pitié_.--ED. - -[120] The following account of the religious beliefs relates to the -mountain tribes with whom De Smet was most familiar, chiefly those of -the Salishan stock.--ED. - -[121] A Canadian Missionary, who lived for a long time among the -savages, gives the following account of the popular tradition of the -Indians respecting the creation of the world:--"Water, they say, was -every where formerly; and Wiskain, a spirit, or subordinate deity, -commanded the castor to dive into it, in order to procure some earth. -The castor obeyed the order, but he was so fat that he could not -possibly descend to the bottom, and he had to return without any -earth. Wiskain, nothing discouraged, charged the musk-rat with the -commission which the castor was unable to perform. The new messenger -having remained a long while under water, and with as little success -as the castor, returned almost drowned. The rat expected that he -should not be required a second time, as he had already nearly lost -his life. But Wiskain, who was not discouraged by obstacles, directed -the rat to dive again, promising him, that if he should happen to be -drowned, he (Wiskain) would restore him to life. The rat dived a -second time, and made the greatest efforts to comply with Wiskain's -orders. After remaining a considerable while under the water, he arose -to the surface, but so exhausted by fatigue that he was insensible. -Wiskain, upon a careful and minute examination, finds at length in the -claws of the poor animal a little earth, upon which he breathes with -such effect, that it begins to augment rapidly. When he had thus blown -for a long time, feeling anxious to know if the earth was large -enough, he ordered the crow, which at that period was as white as the -swan, to fly round it, and take its dimensions. The crow did -accordingly, and returned, saying that the work was too small. Wiskain -set about blowing upon the earth with renewed ardour, and directed the -crow to make a second tour round it, cautioning him, at the same time, -not to feed upon any carcass that he might see on the way. The crow -set off again without complaint, and found, at the place which had -been pointed out, the carcass which he was forbidden to touch. But, -having grown hungry on the way, and being also, perhaps, excited by -gluttony, he filled himself with the infected meat, and on his return -to Wiskain, informed him that the earth was large enough, and that he -need not, therefore, resume his work. But the unfaithful messenger, at -his return, found himself as black as he had been white at his setting -out, and was thus punished for his disobedience, and the black colour -communicated to his descendants." The above tradition, which bears -some striking vestiges of the tradition respecting original sin, and -several circumstances of the deluge, makes no mention whatever of the -creation of man and woman; and, however illogical it may be, it is, -perhaps, not more ridiculous than the systems of certain pretended -philosophers of the last century, who, in hatred of revelation, have -endeavoured to explain the formation of the earth, by substituting -their extravagant reveries for the Mosaic account.--DE SMET. - -[122] For Pierre's Hole (Peter's Valley) see Wyeth's _Oregon_, in our -volume xxi, p. 63, note 41. Concerning the hostile and implacable -character of the Blackfeet tribes consult Bradbury's _Travels_, in our -volume v, p. 220, note 120; also Maximilian's _Travels_, in our volume -xxiii, pp. 90-92.--ED. - -[123] For a description of these hats, woven chiefly by the Pacific -coast Indians, and an article of traffic with the interior, see -_Original Journals of the Lewis and Clark Expedition_, iii, pp. 294, -296, 359-361.--ED. - -[124] Compare with this the description of the Flatheads given in 1814 -by Ross Cox, _Adventures on the Columbia River_ (New York, 1832), pp. -121-127.--ED. - -[125] Probably our author here refers to the sage-brush of the Western -plains, _Artemisia tridentata_.--ED. - -[126] De Smet had accompanied the Indians in their journey from -Pierre's Hole westward and then northward along the Teton River to its -junction with the Henry; thence they proceeded up that stream to its -source in Henry Lake, the northeastern corner of Idaho. As the source -of a chief fork of the Snake, this is one of the mountain origins of -the Columbia. It was named for Andrew Henry, an adventurous trader, -for whom see our volume xv, p. 246, note 107.--ED. - -[127] Probably the stream that runs into Red Rock Lake, in -southwestern Montana, the source of Jefferson River, the main branch -of the Missouri.--ED. - -[128] This was the main chain of the Rockies, on the boundary between -Idaho and Montana, just above the present Reynolds Pass.--ED. - -[129] In this letter, Father de Smet does not describe his movements -with the Flatheads, who having crossed to Red Rock Lake advanced -slowly down the Jefferson until August 21, where they camped at the -Three Forks of Missouri, and prepared to lay in their winter's supply -of buffalo meat. There he left them for his return to St. Louis.--ED. - -[130] As a beautiful specimen of an affecting farewell address, we take -from the journal of a Canadian Missionary the following discourse spoken -by one of the savages of the Red River, to the Black-Gown who had -converted them, when he was about leaving them. After expressing, in the -name of all the Indians of his locality, the grief which they felt at -the Missionary's departure, he added the following words, which prove -their gratitude to the worthy Priest, who had brought to them the truths -of salvation, and to the members of the Society for the Propagation of -the Faith, whose charity had procured them so great a benefit:-- - -"Dear Father, you are going to leave us, but we hope to see you again. -We are quite sensible that you naturally wish to see your relations -and friends, your towns and country--we shall find the time of your -absence very long, but the winter is soon over.--We conceived it to be -our duty to assemble before your departure, and to express our -feelings. We shall only say these few words: we formerly led very -wicked lives, and we know this day to what destruction we were -hastening. There was a thick cloud before our eyes; you have dispersed -it; we see the sun. We shall never forget what you have done and -suffered for us.--Go now, go and tell the Prayers, those kind Prayers, -who take pity on us; who love us without knowing us; and who send us -priests; go and tell them that savages know how to remember a benefit; -go and tell them that we also pray for them, in the desire which we -feel to know them, one day, in the abode of our common Father. Set -out, but return and instruct those whom you have baptized: leave us -not forever in affliction; depart, and in the meanwhile remember that -we are counting the days."--DE SMET. - -[131] De Smet thus describes his route: "For two days we were going up -the Gallatin, the southern fork of the Missouri; thence we crossed by a -narrow pass (Bozeman's) thirty miles in length to the Yellowstone river, -the second of the great tributaries of the Missouri."--Chittenden and -Richardson, _De Smet_, i, p. 234.--ED. - -[132] On the mourning habits of the Western Indians, see our volume -xxiii, p. 362, note 331.--ED. - -[133] For references on the Indian sign language see our volume xix, -p. 221, note 56 (Gregg); also our volume xxiv, pp. 300-312.--ED. - -[134] In prehistoric times, the horse was indigenous in America. -Evidence thereof was collected by Professor O. C. Marsh, and has -recently been corroborated by the results of the Whitney Exploring -Expedition; see H. F. Osborn, "Evolution of the Horse in America," in -_Century Magazine_, lxix, pp. 3-17. Why this animal became extinct on -the western continent is unknown; but it seems certain that the Spanish -discoverers found no trace thereof among the American Indians, and that -the horses of the plains Indians were derived from those lost or -abandoned by or stolen from the Spanish conquerors of Mexico. These soon -reverted to a wild state and became what De Smet calls "the Maroon race -of the prairies." Upon the changes in the economy of life among American -aborigines, brought about by their possession of the horse, consult A. -F. Bandelier, "Investigations in the Southwest," in Archæological -Institute of America _Papers_, American Series, iii, p. 211.--ED. - -[135] Absaroka (Upsahroku) is the name by which the Crows know -themselves, although according to Lewis and Clark it designated but one -band of the tribe. Its significance is uncertain, although usually -thought to be a certain species of hawk. The name "Crow"--literally -raven, but translated "Corbeaux" by the French--is an Anglicized form of -the name given to this tribe by the surrounding Indians, and may refer -to their pilfering tendencies. See our volume v, p. 226, note 121.--ED. - -[136] For a sketch of this fort see Maximilian's _Travels_, in our -volume xxii, p. 373, note 349.--ED. - -[137] For these two animals, the latter of which is commonly known as -the black-tailed or mule deer, see our volume xix, p. 327, note 137 -(Gregg).--ED. - -[138] On these ceremonies, see our volume xxiii, p. 324, note 292, and -p. 378, note 350.--ED. - -[139] On the subject of cannibalism see our volume xxiii, p. 278, note -242.--ED. - -[140] Consult references cited in our volume xxiii, p. 279, note -245.--ED. - -[141] See the brief account of Arikara jugglers in Maximilian's -_Travels_, our volume xxiii, pp. 393, 394--ED. - -[142] Juggleries are much practised among the savages, although many -of them consider them as so many impostures. Mr. Belcourt, who -witnessed a great many of them, always succeeded in discovering the -deception. One of the most celebrated jugglers acknowledged, after his -conversion to Christianity, that all their delusion consists in their -cleverness in preparing certain tricks, and in the assurance with -which they predict to others what they themselves know not, and, above -all, in the silly credulity of their admirers. They are like our own -calculators of horoscopes.--_Extract from the Journal of a Missionary -in Canada._--DE SMET. - -[143] For references on burial customs among the Indians of the -Missouri, see Maximillian's _Travels_, in our volume xxiii, p. 360, -note 329.--ED. - -[144] For a sketch of Independence, Missouri, see Gregg's _Commerce of -the Prairies_ in our volume xix, p. 189, note 34.--ED. - - - - - LETTER III - - - Banks of the Platte, 2d June, 1841. - - Rev. and Very Dear Father Provincial: - -Behold us at last on our way towards the long wished for "Rocky -Mountains," already inured to the fatigues of the journey and full of -the brightest hopes. It is now afternoon and we are sitting on the -banks of a river, which, it is said, has not its equal in the world. -The Indians call it Nebraska or Big Horn; the Canadians give it the -name of la Platte, and Irving designates it as the most wonderful and -useless of rivers. The sequel will show that it deserves these various -affixes. It was to enjoy the freshness and beauty of its scenery that -we travelled more than twenty miles this morning, without breaking -our fast, through a wilderness without a single rivulet to water our -jaded horses, who must therefore rest where they are till to-morrow. I -am far from regretting the delay as it will give me an opportunity of -commencing a letter which, I know, will interest you. - -Like all the works of God, our humble beginnings have not been -unattended with trials: our journey had even well nigh been indefinitely -postponed by the unexpected non-arrival of two caravans on which we had -confidently relied; one of hunters, for the American Fur Company; the -other an exploring expedition belonging to the United States, at the -head of which we expected to see the celebrated M. Nicolet.[145] Happily -God inspired two estimable travellers, [LXI] of whom more hereafter, and -afterwards sixty others, to take the same route as ourselves, some for -health, others for science, or pleasure; but the greater number to seek -their fortune in the too highly boasted land of California. This caravan -formed an extraordinary mixture of different nations, every country of -Europe having in it a representative, my own little band of eleven -persons hailing from eight.[146] - -The difficulties of setting out once overcome, many others followed -in succession. We had need of provisions, fire-arms, implements of -every kind, waggons, guides, a good hunter, an experienced -captain,--in a word, whatever becomes necessary when one has to -traverse a desert of eight hundred leagues, and expects nothing but -formidable obstacles to surmount, and thieving, and sometimes -murderous, enemies to combat,--and swamps, ravines and rivers to -cross, and mountains to climb, whose craggy and precipitous sides -suddenly arrest our progress, compelling us to drag our beasts of -burden up their steep ascents. These things are not done without toil -and money, but thanks to the generous charity of our friends in -Philadelphia, Cincinnati, Kentucky, St. Louis and New Orleans,[147] -which place I visited in person and which is always at the head of the -others when there is a question of relieving the necessities of the -poor, or showing compassion and munificence to any who may be in need -of assistance, we were enabled by the resources thence supplied, and -by a portion of the funds allowed by the Lyons Association in behalf -of the Indian Missions, to undertake this long journey. - -You have already learned from my letters of the past year, that I was -specially sent among the Flat Heads to ascertain their dispositions -towards the "Black Robes," whom they had so long desired. I therefore -started from [LXII] St. Louis in April, 1840, and arrived on the banks -of the Colorado precisely at the moment when a band of Flat Heads -reached that point on their way to meet me. It was the rendezvous I had -given them. Besides the Flat Heads I visited during that journey, many -other tribes, such as the Pends-d'oreilles (Ear Rings), Nez Perces -(Pierced Noses), Cheyennes, Serpents, Crows, Gros ventres or Minatarees, -Ricaras, Mandans, Kanzas, the numerous nations of the Scioux, &c. -Finding every where such good dispositions, I resolved, notwithstanding -the approach of winter and frequent attacks of fever, in order to second -the visible designs of the divine mercy in favor of so many souls, to -commence my journey across the immense ocean of mountains and prairies. -I have travelled without any other guide than a compass, without any -protection from nations hostile to the whites, but a veteran from Ghent, -formerly a grenadier of the Empire, any other provisions in an arid -desert, than what powder and ball and a strong confidence in God might -procure us. I shall not here repeat what I have already communicated to -you, of my adventures and the result of this mission. It will suffice to -say, that the unexpected quickness of my return to St. Louis, the -excellent health I enjoyed, even though it was the midst of winter, and -the consoling accounts I had to give of my reception by the Flat Heads, -&c. &c., all contributed to make the most lively impression on the -hearts of our brethren. Almost every one thought himself called to share -the labors of a mission which offered so many attractions to their zeal. -After due deliberation, the fellow-laborers allotted me were five in -number, namely two Fathers, Rev. Mr. Point[148] of La Vendee, as zealous -and courageous for the salvation of souls as his compatriot, La Roche -Jacquelin[149] was in the service of his lawful sovereign; Rev. Mr. -Mengarini, recently from [LXIII] Rome, specially selected by the Father -General himself, for this mission, on account of his age, his virtues, -his great facility for languages and his knowledge of medicine and -music;[150] and three lay-brothers, two Belgians, Claessens and Huet, -and one German, of whom the first is a blacksmith, the second a -carpenter, and the third a tinner, or a sort of _factotum_;[151] all -three industrious, devoted to the Missions and full of good will. They -had long ardently desired to be employed on these missions and I thank -God that had the choice been left to myself, I could have made none -better. Thus launched into the midst of this interminable Far West, how -often did I repeat these beautiful lines of Racine: - - O Dieu, par quelles routes inconnues aux mortels - Ta Sagesse conduit tes desseins eternels! - -In seven days from my departure from St. Louis, namely, on the 30th of -April, I arrived at Westport, a frontier town on the West of the -United States. It took us seven days, on board a steamboat,[152] to -perform this journey of 900 miles, no unfair average of the time -required to travel such a distance on the Missouri, at the breaking up -of the winter, when, though the ice is melted, the water is still so -low, the sand banks so close together and the snags so numerous that -boats cannot make greater headway.... We landed on the right bank of -the river, and took refuge in an abandoned little cabin, where a poor -Indian woman had died a few days before, and in this retreat, so like -to that which once merited the preference of the Saviour and for which -was thenceforth to be substituted only the shelter of a tent in the -wilderness, we took up our abode until the 10th May--occupied as well -we might be in supplying the wants created by the burning of our -baggage waggon on board the steamboat, the sickness of one of our -horses [LXIV] which we were compelled to leave after us, and the loss -of another that escaped from us at the moment of landing. - -We started, then, from Westport, on the 10th of May, and after having -passed by the lands of the Shawnees and Delawares, where we saw -nothing remarkable but the college of the Methodists,[153] built, it -is easy to divine for what, where the soil is richest; we arrived -after five day's march on the banks of the Kanzas river, where we -found those of our companions, who had travelled by water, with a part -of our baggage.[154] Two of the relatives of the grand chief had come -twenty miles from that place to meet us, one of whom helped our horses -to pass the river in safety, by swimming before them, and the other -announced our arrival to the principal men of the tribe who waited for -us on the opposite bank. Our baggage, waggons and men crossed in a -pirogue, which, at a distance, looked like one of those gondolas that -glide through the streets of Venice. As soon as the Kanzas understood -that we were going to encamp on the banks of the Soldier's River,[155] -which is only six miles from the village, they galloped rapidly away -from our Caravan, disappearing in a cloud of dust, so that we had -scarcely pitched our tents when the great Chief presented himself with -six of his bravest warriors, to bid us welcome. After having made me -sit down on a mat spread on the ground, he, with much solemnity, took -from his pocket a Portfolio containing the honorable titles that gave -him a right to our friendship and placed them in my hands. I read -them, and having, with the tact of a man accustomed to the etiquette -of savage life, furnished him the means of smoking the Calumet, he -made us accept for our guard the two braves who had come to meet us. -Both were armed like warriors, one carrying a lance and a buckler, and -the other a bow and arrows, with a naked sword and a collar [LXV] -made of the claws of four bears which he had killed with his own hand. -These two braves remained faithful at their post during the three days -and three nights that we had to wait the coming up of the stragglers -of the caravan. A small present which we made them at our departure, -secured us their friendship. - -[Illustration: Kanza Village] - -On the 19th we continued our journey to the number of seventy souls, -fifty of whom were capable of managing the rifle--a force more than -sufficient to undertake with prudence the long march we had to make. -Whilst the rest of our company inclined to the West, Father Point, a -young Englishman and myself turned to the left, to visit the nearest -village of our hosts.[156] At the first sight of their wigwams, we -were struck at the resemblance they bore to the large stacks of wheat -which cover our fields in harvest-time. There were of these in all no -more than about twenty, grouped together without order, but each -covering a space of about one hundred and twenty feet in -circumference, and sufficient to shelter from thirty to forty persons. -The entire village appeared to us to consist of from seven to eight -hundred souls--an approximation which is justified by the fact that -the total population of the tribe is confined to two villages, -together numbering 1900 inhabitants. These cabins, however humble they -may appear, are solidly built and convenient. From the top of the -wall, which is about six feet in height, rise inclined poles, which -terminate round an opening above, serving at once for chimney and -window. The door of the edifice consists of an undressed hide on the -most sheltered side, the hearth occupies the centre and is in the -midst of four upright posts destined to support the _rotunda_; the -beds are ranged round the wall and the space between the beds and the -hearth is occupied by the members [LXVI] of the family, some standing, -others sitting or lying on skins, or yellow colored mats. It would -seem that this last named article is regarded as a piece of extra -finery, for the lodge assigned to us had one of them.[157] - -It would be difficult to describe all the curiosities we beheld during -the hour we passed among these truly strange beings; a Teniers would -have envied us. What most excited our attention was the peculiar -physiognomy of the greater number of these personages, their vivacity -of expression, singular costume, diversity of amusement and fantastic -attitudes and gestures. The women alone were occupied, and in order to -attend to their various duties with less distraction, they had placed -those of their papooses who were unable to walk, on beds or on the -floor, or at their feet, each tightly swathed and fastened to a board, -to preserve it from being injured by surrounding objects. This -machine, which I shall not call either cradle or chair, is carried, -when they travel, either on the back, after the fashion of the gypsies -and fortune-tellers in Europe, or at their side, or more frequently, -suspended from the pummel of the saddle, while they lead or drive -their ponies, laden with the rest of their goods and chattels. With -such encumbrances they manage to keep pace with their husbands, who -generally keep their horses at a gallop. But let us return to our -wigwam. How were the men occupied? When we entered, some were -preparing to eat, (this is their great occupation when they are not -asleep) others were smoking, discharging the fumes of the tobacco by -their mouths and nostrils, reminding one of the funnels of a -steamboat; they talked, they plucked out their beard and the hair of -their eye-brows, they made their toilette; the head receiving -particular attention. Contrary to the custom of the other tribes, who -let the hair on their heads grow, (one of [LXVII] the Crows has hair -eleven feet long) the Kanzas shave theirs, with the exception of a -well curled tuft on the crown, destined to be wreathed with the -warrior's plume of eagle's feathers, the proudest ornament with which -the human head can be adorned.[158] While we were smoking I could not -help watching the motions of a young savage, a sort of dandy, who -ceased not to arrange, over and over again, his bunch of feathers -before a looking glass, apparently unable to give it the graceful -finish he intended.--Father Point, having suffered his beard to grow, -soon became an object of curiosity and laughter, to the children--a -beardless chin and well picked brows and eye-lashes being, among them, -indispensable to beauty. Next come the Plume and Slit-ears, with their -pendants of beads and other trinkets. This is but a part of their -finery, and the pains thus taken to reach the _beau-ideal_ of personal -decorations, are but a faint specimen of their vanity. Do you wish to -have an idea of a Kanza satisfied with himself in the highest degree? -Picture him to yourself with rings of vermillion encircling his eyes, -with white, black, or red streaks running down his face, a fantastic -necklace, adorned in the center with a large medal of silver or -copper, dangling on his breast; bracelets of tin, copper, or brass, on -his arms and wrists; a cincture of white around his waist, a cutlass -and scabbard, embroidered shoes or mocasins on his feet; and, to crown -all, a mantle, it matters not for the color, thrown over the -shoulders and falling around the body in such folds or drapery as the -wants or caprice of the wearer may direct, and the individual stands -before you as he exhibited himself to us. - -As for dress, manners, religion, modes of making war, &c., the Kanzas -are like the savages of their neighborhood, with whom they have -preserved peaceful and friendly relations [LXVIII] from time immemorial. -In stature, they are generally tall and well made. Their physiognomy is -manly, their language is guttural, and remarkable for the length and -strong accentuation of the final syllables. Their style of singing is -monotonous, whence it may be inferred that the enchanting music heard on -the rivers of Paraguay, never cheers the voyager on the otherwise -beautiful streams of the country of the Kanzas. - -With regard to the qualities which distinguish man from the brute, -they are far from being deficient. To bodily strength and courage they -unite a shrewdness and address superior to other savages, and in their -wars or the chase, they make a dexterous use of fire arms, which gives -them a decided advantage over their enemies. - -Among the chiefs of this tribe are found men really distinguished in -many respects. The most celebrated was "White Plume," whom the author -of the Conquest of Grenada represents as a man of great powers of mind -and chivalrous character.[159] He was endowed with uncommon -intelligence, frankness, generosity and courage. He had been -particularly acquainted with Rev. Mr. De la Croix, one of the first -Catholic Missionaries that visited that part of the West, and -conceived for him and his colleagues, the "Black Robes" profound -esteem.[160] His feelings towards the Protestant Missionaries were -far different. He had neither esteem nor veneration for them or their -reformation. When on a certain occasion one of them spoke to him of -conversion; "conversion," said the unsophisticated savage, "is a good -thing when the change is made for something good. For my part, I know -none such but what is taught and practised by the Black Robes. If then -you desire me to change, you must first quit your wife and then put on -the habit I shall show you, and then we shall [LXIX] see further." -This habit was a priest's cassock, which a missionary had left him -with the memory of his virtues.--We presume we need not add that these -hard conditions were not complied with by the preacher. - -It is not to be inferred from the apparent pleasantry of this remark -that the chief spoke lightly of Religion; on the contrary, the Kanzas, -like all the Indian tribes, never speak on the subject without becoming -solemnity. The more they are observed the more evident does it become -that the religious sentiment is deeply implanted in their souls, and is, -of all others, that which is most frequently expressed by their words -and actions. Thus, for instance, they never take the calumet, without -first rendering some homage to the Great Spirit. In the midst of their -most infuriate passions they address him certain prayers, and even in -assassinating a defenceless child, or a woman, they invoke the Master of -life. To be enabled to take many a scalp from their enemies, or to rob -them of many horses, becomes the object of their most fervid prayers, -to which they sometimes add fasts, macerations and sacrifices. What did -they not do last spring, to render the heavens propitious? And for what? -To obtain the power, in the absence of their warriors, to massacre all -the women and children of the Pawnees! And in effect they carried off -the scalps of ninety victims, and made prisoners of all whom they did -not think proper to kill. In their eyes, revenge, far from being a -horrible vice, is the first of virtues, the distinctive mark of great -souls, and a complete vindication of the most atrocious cruelty. It -would be time lost to attempt to persuade them that there can be neither -merit, nor glory, in the murder of a disarmed and helpless foe. There is -but one exception to this barbarous code, it is when an enemy -voluntarily seeks a refuge in one of their villages. As long as [LXX] he -remains in it, his asylum is inviolable--his life is more safe than it -would be in his own wigwam. But wo to him if he attempt to fly--scarcely -has he taken a single step, before he restores to his hosts all the -imaginary rights which the spirit of vengeance had given them to his -life! However cruel they may be to their foes, the Kanzas are no -strangers to the tenderest sentiments of piety, friendship and -compassion. They are often inconsolable for the death of their -relations, and leave nothing undone to give proof of their sorrow. Then -only do they suffer their hair to grow--long hair being a sign of long -mourning. The principal chief apologised for the length of his hair, -informing us, of what we could have divined from the sadness of his -countenance, that he had lost his son. I wish I could represent to you -the respect, astonishment and compassion, expressed on the countenances -of three others, when they visited our little Chapel for the first -time.[161] When we showed them an "Ecce Homo" and a statue of our Lady -of the seven Dolours, and the interpreter explained to them that that -head crowned with thorns, and that countenance defiled with insults, -were the true and real image of a God who had died for the love of us, -and that the heart they saw pierced with seven swords, was the heart of -his mother, we beheld an affecting illustration of the beautiful thought -of Tertullian, that the soul of man is naturally Christian! On such -occasions, it is surely not difficult, after a short instruction on true -faith and the love of God, to excite feelings of pity for their fellow -creatures in the most ferocious bosoms. What were the Iroquois before -their conversions, and what have they not since become? Why do the -Kanzas and so many other tribes on the confines of civilization, still -retain that savage ferocity of manners? Why have the great sums expended -in their behalf by Protestant philanthropy [LXXI] produced no -satisfactory results? Why are the germs of civilization so thickly -scattered among these tribes, as it were, stricken with sterility? Ah! -it is doubtless, because something more than human policy and zeal of -Protestantism is necessary to civilize the savages and make them -Christians. May the God of Mercies, in whom we alone place all our -trust, bless our undertaking and enable us to predict that our sweat, -mixed with the fertilizing dew of heaven, will fall auspiciously on this -long barren earth, and make it produce something else besides briars and -thorns! When we took leave of our hospitable hosts, two of their -warriors, to one of whom they gave the title of Captain, escorted us a -short distance on the road, which lay through a vast field which had -been cleared and planted for them by the United States, but which had -been ravaged before the harvest home--sad proof of what we have stated -above. - -[Illustration: Interior of a Kanza Lodge] - -Our escort continued with us until the day following, and would have -remained with us still longer, did they not fear the terrible -reprisals of the Pawnees, for the massacre committed some months -previously. Having therefore received our thanks and a portion of -tobacco, they resumed the road to their village, just in time to -escape the vengeance of a party of Pawnees, whom we met two days -later, in quest of the Kanzas! - -The Pawnees are divided into four tribes, scattered over the fertile -borders of the Platte River.[162] Though six times more numerous than -the Kanzas, they have almost on every occasion been conquered by the -latter, because they are far inferior to them in the use of arms, and in -strength and courage. Yet as the party just mentioned seemed to have -adopted decisive measures, and as their thirst of revenge had been -stimulated to the highest degree by the still fresh recollection of what -their mothers, their wives and children [LXXII] had suffered, we had -reason to fear for the Kanzas. Already we fancied that we saw the blood -streaming on all sides, when, two days after we had passed them, we saw -them return to meet us. The two first who approached us, excited our -attention, the one by a human scalp, which hung suspended from the neck -of his horse, the other by an American flag, which he had wrapped around -his body, in the form of a cloak. This kind of attire made us tremble -for the fate of our hosts; but the captain of the caravan having asked -them by signs concerning the result of their expedition, they informed -us that they had not even seen the enemy, and that they suffered much -from the cravings of hunger. We gave to them, and to about fifteen -others who followed them, both victuals and tobacco. They devoured the -victuals, but did not smoke; and, contrary to the custom of the -Indians, who generally expect to get a second meal after the first, they -left us in a manner which indicated that they were dissatisfied. The -suddenness of their departure, their refusal to smoke the calumet, the -unexpected return of their party, the neighborhood of their villages, -and their well known love of plunder--in short, every thing induced us -to fear that they had some design to make an attempt, if not upon our -persons, at least upon the baggage; but, God be praised, not one -re-appeared after the departure of the party. - -Though addicted to the practice of lying and stealing, yet, what must -appear wonderful, the Pawnees are in some respects true believers, -with regard to the certainty of a future life, and display a -pharisaical punctuality in the observance of their superstitious -rites. Dancing and music, as well as fasting, prayer and sacrifice, -form an essential part of their worship. The most common worship among -them is that which they offer to a stuffed bird, filled with [LXXIII] -herbs and roots, to which they attribute a supernatural virtue.[163] -They protest that this Manitoo had been sent to their ancestors by the -Morning Star, to be their mediator when they should stand in need of -some particular favor.--Hence, whenever they enter upon some important -undertaking, or wish to avert some great evil, they expose the -Mediator-bird to public veneration; and in order to render both him -and the Great Manitoo (or Spirit) by whom he is sent, propitious to -them, they smoke the calumet, and blow the first smoke that issues -from it towards the part of the sky where shines their protectress. - -On the most solemn occasions the Pawnees add a bloody sacrifice to -the oblation of the calumet; and according to what they pretend to -have learned from the bird and the Star, the sacrifice most agreeable -to the Great Spirit is that of an enemy immolated in the most cruel -manner. It is impossible to listen without horror to the recital of -the circumstances that attended the sacrifice of a young female, of -the Scioux tribe, in the course of the year 1837. It was about seed -time, and they thus sought to obtain a plentiful harvest. I shall here -give the substance of the detailed account, which I have given of it -in a former letter. This young girl, was only aged fifteen; after -having been well treated and fed for six months, under pretence that a -feast would be prepared for her at the opening of the summer season, -felt rejoiced when she saw the last days of winter roll by. The day -fixed upon for the feast having dawned, she passed through all the -preparatory ceremonies, and was then arrayed in her finest attire, -after which she was placed in a circle of warriors, who seemed to -escort her for the purpose of showing her deference. Besides their -wonted arms, each one of these warriors had two pieces of wood, which -he had received at the hands of the maiden. The [LXXIV] latter had on -the preceding day carried three posts, which she had helped to fell in -the neighboring forest: but supposing that she was walking to a -triumph, and her mind being filled with the most pleasing ideas, the -victim advanced towards the place of her sacrifice with those mingled -feelings of joy and timidity, which, under similar circumstances, are -naturally excited in the bosom of a girl of her age. - -During their march, which was rather long, the silence was interrupted -only by religious songs and invocations to the Master of life, so that -whatever affected the senses, tended to keep up the deceitful delusion -under which she had been till that moment. But as soon as she had -reached the place of sacrifice, where nothing was seen but fires, -torches, and instruments of torture, the delusion began to vanish and -her eyes were opened to the fate that awaited her. How great must have -been the surprise, and soon after the terror which she felt, when she -found it no longer possible to doubt of their intentions? Who could -describe her poignant anguish? She burst into tears; she raised loud -cries to heaven--she begged, entreated, conjured her executioners to -have pity on her youth, her innocence, her parents, but all in vain: -neither tears, nor cries, nor the promises of a trader who happened to -be present, softened the hearts of these monsters. She was tied with -ropes to the trunk and branches of two trees, and the most sensitive -parts of her body were burnt with torches made of the wood which she -had with her own hands distributed to the warriors.--When her -sufferings lasted long enough to weary the fanatical fury of her -ferocious tormentors, the great chief shot an arrow into her heart; -and in an instant this arrow was followed by a thousand others, which, -after having been violently turned and twisted in the wounds, were -torn from them in such a manner that her whole body presented but -[LXXV] one shapeless mass of mangled flesh, from which the blood -streamed on all sides. When the blood had ceased to flow, the greater -sacrificator approached the expiring victim, and to crown so many -atrocious acts, tore out her heart with his own hands, and after -uttering the most frightful imprecations against the Scioux nation, -devoured the bleeding flesh, amid the acclamations of his whole tribe. -The mangled remains were then left to be preyed upon by wild beasts, -and when the blood had been sprinkled on the seed, to render it -fertile, all retired to their cabins, cheered with the hope of -obtaining a copious harvest.[164] - -Such horrid cruelties could not but draw down the wrath of heaven upon -their nation. And in fact, as soon as the report of the sacrifice -reached the Scioux, they burned with the desire to avenge their honor, -and swore to a man that they would not rest satisfied till they should -have killed as many Pawnees as the young victim had bones in her -fingers and joints in her body. More than a hundred Pawnees have at -length fallen beneath their tomahawks, and their fury was afterwards -more increased by the massacre of their wives and children, of which I -have spoken before. - -At the sight of so much cruelty, who could mistake the agency of the -enemy of mankind, and who would refuse to exert himself for the -purpose of bringing these benighted nations to the knowledge of the -true Mediator, and of the only true sacrifice, without which, it is -impossible to appease the divine justice. - - Rev. and dear Father, yours, - - P. J. DE SMET, S.J. - -FOOTNOTES: - -[145] De Smet had been associated with Nicollet in his exploration of -the Missouri River in 1839. Nicollet intended another expedition -westward, but was detained in Washington by business connected with -the publication of his hydrographical map, and the report to Congress, -and was never again in the Western country. See his letter in -Chittenden and Richardson, _De Smet_, iv, pp. 1552, 1553. - -Jean Nicolas Nicollet was born in Savoy in 1786. After being educated -in Switzerland, he was for a time assistant professor of mathematics -at Chambery, and later librarian and secretary at the Paris -observatory under the celebrated La Place. In 1832 he came to America, -and occupied himself in scientific exploration of the Arkansas and Red -rivers. In 1836 he made his well-known voyage to the sources of the -Mississippi, and in 1839 explored the Missouri, crossing over to the -Red River Valley, being accompanied on this expedition by John C. -Frémont. The following years, until his death in 1843, he was employed -in government service at Washington.--ED. - -[146] This was the first overland emigrant train to California, composed -of members of the Western Emigration Society, organized in the winter of -1840-41 in Platte County, Missouri, under the stimulus of reports of the -fertility and beauty of California, brought back by one of the Roubidoux -brothers. Discouraged by contrary accounts, most of the members of the -society withdrew, leaving John Bidwell to organize the caravan, which -finally consisted of sixty-nine persons, exclusive of De Smet's party. -See Bidwell's account in _Century Magazine_, xix, pp. 106-120. De Smet's -party of eleven consisted of the priests and brothers, one guide, one -hunter, and three French Canadian drivers.--ED. - -[147] See De Smet's letter on securing funds, and preparations, in -Chittenden and Richardson, _De Smet_, i, pp. 272-275.--ED. - -[148] Father Nicolas Point was sojourning at Westport when De Smet -returned from his first mission to the Flatheads. Selected to accompany -the new mission, Father Point served at St. Mary's until 1842, when -after a summer with the Indians on a buffalo hunt, he founded in the -autumn of that year the Cœur d'Alène mission. This he made the seat of -his work until his recall in 1846. On his return journey he spent some -months among the Blackfeet, laying the foundation for the work that -later ripened into St. Peter's mission. He baptized over six hundred -persons, chiefly children, and turned to much advantage his talent for -drawing, whereby he attracted the indifferent tribesmen. He passed the -ensuing winter at Fort Union, where he exercised a salutary restraint -over the lawless traders and half-breeds. See Historical Society of -Montana _Contributions_, iii, pp. 246-248. The next spring he was sent -to Upper Canada, and died at Quebec in 1868.--ED. - -[149] Henri de Verger, count de La Rochejacquelein (1772-94), was one of -the most popular generals of the Vendéan peasants, during their revolt -against the republic of the French Revolution. He had been a member of -the king's guard, but after the famous Tenth of August retreated to his -ancestral home, and there put himself at the head of the uprising, and -although but twenty-one years of age was chosen general-in-chief (1793). -His courage and military daring made him the favorite hero of the -royalists. He was killed by a republican soldier.--ED. - -[150] Father Gregory Mengarini remained in charge of the Flathead -mission at St. Mary's until 1850. He was an accomplished linguist, and -so mastered the Indian dialect that by means of his speech he could -pass for a Flathead. He printed a Salishan grammar (1861), and -prepared a Salishan-English dictionary. In 1850 it was decided to -abandon St. Mary's for a time, whereupon Father Mengarini retired to -the newly-established Jesuit college at Santa Clara, California, where -he died in 1886. For his portrait see Palladino, _Indian and White in -the Northwest_, p. 31.--ED. - -[151] William Claessens lived at the Flathead mission until near the -close of his life. Ordered to Santa Clara, California, to rest, he -died there (October 11, 1891), just after celebrating the fiftieth -anniversary of his entrance upon missionary work. For his portrait see -_ibid._, p. 62. - -Joseph Specht never permanently left the Flathead mission, dying at -St. Ignatius in 1884, one of the oldest white inhabitants of Montana. -For his portrait see _ibid._, p. 60. - -Charles Huet joined Father Point in establishing the Cœur d'Alène -mission. See _ante_, note 67.--ED. - -[152] De Smet went up to Westport by the "Oceana," a steamboat of -about 300 tons, built in 1836.--ED. - -[153] A mission school was established among the Shawnee in 1829 by -Reverend Thomas Johnson of the Missouri conference of the Methodist -church, and was conducted by that missionary and his wife, and -Reverend and Mrs. William Johnson. In 1839 the school was removed to a -location about two miles southwest of Westport, where a grant of land -was secured, and an industrial school maintained for Indian children -until 1862.--ED. - -[154] For the early stretch of the Oregon Trail see Wyeth's _Oregon_, -in our volume xxi, p. 49, note 30. The California emigrants were met -at Sapling Grove. - -For the Kansa Indians see our volume v, p. 67, note 37.--ED. - -[155] Soldier's Creek, a northern tributary of the Kansas, entering the -latter just below Topeka, near the Kansas River fording place.--ED. - -[156] The Englishman's name was Romaine. He had come up from New -Orleans on a hunting trip, and accompanied the caravan as far as Green -River. De Smet testifies to his engaging qualities, his skill as a -hunter, and his courtesy in camp. - -The Kansa village here visited was near the mouth of Vermillion Creek, -in Pottawatomie County (not to be confused with the Black Vermillion, -tributary of the Big Blue). When Frémont passed this way in 1842, the -village was deserted, having the preceding spring suffered a Pawnee -attack.--ED. - -[157] For an earlier visit to a Kansa village see our volume xiv, pp. -184-200. See also illustration of the interior of a Kansa lodge, -_ibid._, p. 208.--ED. - -[158] See more detailed description in our volume xiv, pp. 196, -197.--ED. - -[159] For this noted chief see our volume xiv, p. 177, note 144. -Washington Irving's semi-humorous description of him occurs in _The -Rocky Mountains_ (Captain Bonneville's Journal), chapter ii.--ED. - -[160] Charles de la Croix, born at Hoorebeke, Belgium, 1792, was -impressed into the imperial guards; but escaping with difficulty from -Paris in 1814, was ordained for the American mission. He arrived in -the United States in 1817, at first being made pastor at Barrens, -Missouri. In 1820 he became curé at Florissant, whence he made two -visits (1821-22) to the territory of the Osage, but was compelled by -illness to return. Upon the coming of the Jesuits to Florissant (1823) -he resigned his charge to them, becoming pastor of St. Michael's -parish, Louisiana, where he remained until failing health made -necessary his return to Europe (1834). He served as canon of the -cathedral at Ghent until his death in 1869.--ED. - -[161] De Smet probably intends the chapel at Westport, where Father -Point was stationed before his departure for the Flathead -country.--ED. - -[162] For the Pawnee bands see our volume xiv, p. 233, note 179. Their -depredations were nearly as much dreaded by the traders on the -southern routes, as those of the Blackfeet were in northern -climes.--ED. - -[163] De Smet refers here to the medicine bundle. One of these -belonged to each family of importance, and a still more sacred one to -each band of the tribe. Its contents were various, frequently -containing skins of sacred birds, although not exclusively so -composed. See John B. Dunbar, "Pawnee Indians," in _Magazine of -American History_, viii, pp. 738-741.--ED. - -[164] This custom of human sacrifice appears to have been confined to -the Skidi or Loup band of Pawnee, and to have been abolished only with -much difficulty. James's _Long's Expedition_, in our volume xv, pp. -151-155, relates the rescue of one such captive in 1817, and the -apparent abolition of the custom. John T. Irving, Jr., _Indian -Sketches_ (Philadelphia, 1835), ii, pp. 146-153, describes an -ineffectual attempt in 1831 to rescue a captive designed for this -fate. The account given by De Smet of the sacrifice of 1837 appears to -be authentic. Dunbar (_op. cit._ in preceding note) says that the last -known instance occurred in April, 1838; but probably it has been -repeated since. See also George B. Grinnell, _Pawnee Hero Stories and -Folk Tales_ (New York, 1893), pp. 363-369; and George A. Dorsey, -"Traditions of the Skidi Pawnee," in American Folk Lore Society -_Publications_ (Boston, 1904), viii.--ED. - - - - - LETTER IV - - - Eau Sucree,[165] 14th July, 1841. - - Very Rev. and Dear Father Provincial: - -Already two long months have elapsed since we began our journey; but -we are at length in sight of those dear mountains that have so long -been the object of our desires.[166] They are called Rocky, because -they are almost entirely formed of granite and silex, or flint stone. -The length, position, and elevation of this truly wonderful chain of -mountains, have induced geographers to give to it the appellation of -"the back-bone of the western hemisphere." Traversing almost the whole -of North America, from north to south, containing the sources of some -of the largest streams of the world, this chain has for its branches, -towards the west, "the spur of the Cordilleras," which divide the -Empire of Mexico, and towards the east the less known but not less -wonderful mountains of the Wind River, where are found the sources of -the large streams that empty themselves into the Pacific and Atlantic -Oceans. The Black Hills and the table lands called Prairie hills, -which separate the sources of the upper Missouri from those of the -Mississippi, the Ozark and the Masserne ridges may all be considered -as so many collateral chains of the Rocky Mountains. - -According to trigonometrical calculations, and observations, made by -means of the barometer, Mr. Boneville,[167] [LXXVII] in his Memoirs, -asserts that the summits of some of these mountains are 25,000 feet -high.[168] This height would appear much exaggerated, if we consulted -only the testimony of the eyes, but it is well known that the mountains -which are found in immense plains, are not unlike ships seen on the -ocean; they appear much less elevated than they are in reality. Whatever -may be the height of these colossal mountains, it was at their base that -we hoped to meet our dear neophytes. But a messenger we had sent to -acquaint them with our arrival, has just returned, and informed us that -the Indians who lay encamped there, about a fortnight ago, went in a -southerly direction to hunt the buffalo. We know not whether those -Indians were Flat Heads or belong to another nation, and it is to obtain -information on this subject, that we are going to despatch a second -messenger. In the mean time, I shall continue my journal. The numerous -notes, which, on account of our slow progress, we have been enabled to -take on the spot, will warrant that exactness of description, which is -the more desirable, as it is a quality frequently wanting in the -accounts given of these distant regions. Not to exceed the bounds of a -lengthy letter, I shall say but little concerning perspectives, flowers, -birds, animals, Indians, and adventures. - -With the exception of the mounds which run parallel to each other on -both sides of the Platte river, and after passing under the Black -Hills, disappear at the base of the Rocky Mountains, the whole plain -which we traversed for 1500 miles after we had left Westport, might be -called the Prairie Ocean. In fact, nearly the whole of this territory -is of an undulating form, and the undulations resemble the billows of -the sea when agitated by the storm. On the tops of some of these -elevations we have seen shells and petrifactions, such as are found on -several mountains in [LXXVIII] Europe. No doubt, some impartial -geologists may discover here, as they have done elsewhere, -incontestible proofs of the deluge. A petrified fragment which I have -in my possession, seems to contain a number of these shells. - -In proportion as one removes from the banks of the Missouri or -penetrates into the Western regions, the forests lose much in height, -density and depth, in consequence of the scarcity of water. Soon after, -only the rivers are lined with narrow skirts of wood, in which are -seldom seen any lofty creeks. In the neighborhood of creeks and rivulets -we generally find willow bushes, and where there is no water it would be -vain to look for any thing but grass, and even this grass is only found -in the fertile plains that lie between Westport and the Platte river. - -This intimate connexion between rivers and forests is so striking to -the eye, that our beasts of burden had not journeyed more than eight -days through this desert, when we saw them in some manner exult and -double their pace at the sight of the trees that appeared at a -distance. This was chiefly observable when the day's journey had been -rather long. This scarcity of wood in the western regions, so much at -variance with what is seen in other parts of North America, proceeds -from two principal causes. In the plains on this side of Platte river, -from the custom which the Indians who live here have adopted, to fire -their prairies towards the end of autumn, in order to have better -pasture at the return of spring; but in the Far West, where the -Indians do not follow this practice, (because they fear to drive away -the animals that are necessary for their subsistence, or to expose -themselves to be discovered by the strolling parties of their -enemies,) it proceeds from the nature of the soil, which being a -mixture of sand and light earth, is every where so very barren that -with the exception [LXXIX] of the absynth[169] that covers the plains, -and the gloomy verdure that shades the mountains, vegetation is -confined to the vicinity of rivers,--a circumstance which renders a -journey through the Far West extremely long and tedious. - -At considerable distances, chiefly between the Kants [Kansas] and the -Platte rivers, are found blocks of granite of different sizes and -colors. The reddish is the most common. In some of the stony parts of -the Black Hills are also seen numberless quantities of small pebbles -of all shades. I have seen some that were united into solid masses. If -these were well polished they would present the appearance of fine -mosaics. The columns of the House of Representatives in Washington are -deemed very handsome, and are made of similar concretions. - -On the feast of St. Peter a remarkable occurrence took place. We -discovered an equally curious quarry, which, at first, we took for -white marble, but we soon found it something more valuable. Astonished -at the facility with which we could fashion this kind of stone into -any shape, most of the travellers made calumets of it. I had several -made myself, with the intention of offering them as presents to the -Indians, so that for the space of forty-eight hours our camp was -filled with lapidaries. But the greater number of these calumets could -not withstand the action of the fire, and broke. It was alabaster. - -The first rock which we saw, and which truly deserves the name, was the -famous Rock Independence. It is of the same nature as the Rocky -Mountains. At first I was led to believe that it had received this -pompous name from its isolated situation and the solidity of its basis; -but I was afterwards told that it was called so because the first -travellers who thought of giving it a name, arrived at it on the very -day when the people of the United States celebrate the [LXXX] -anniversary of their emancipation from Great Britain. We reached this -spot on the day that immediately succeeds this celebration. We had in -our company a young Englishman, as jealous of the honor of his nation as -the Americans; hence we had a double reason not to cry hurra for -Independence. Still, on the following day, lest it might be said that we -passed this lofty monument of the desert with indifference, we cut our -names on the south side of the rock, under initials (I. H. S.) which we -would wish to see engraved on every spot. On account of all these names, -and of the dates that accompany them, as well as of the hieroglyphics of -Indian warriors, I have surnamed this Rock "the Great Record of the -Desert." I shall add a few remarks about the mounds that are seen in the -vicinity of the Platte river. The most remarkable of all, at least that -which is best known to the generality of travellers, is the mound to -which they have given the name of "chimney." It is called so on account -of its extraordinary form; but instead of applying to it an appellation -which is rather unworthy this wonder of nature, just because it bears -some resemblance to the object after which it is named, it would have -been more proper to call it "the inverted funnel," as there is no object -which it resembles more. Its whole height, including the base, body and -column, is scarce less than four or five hundred feet; the column or -chimney is only about one hundred and thirty feet high, so that there is -nothing striking in the loftiness of its dimensions. But what excites -our astonishment, is the manner in which this remnant of a mountain, -composed of sand and clay, has been so shaped, and how it has for such a -length of time preserved this form, in spite of the winds that are so -violent in these parts. It is true that this mound, and all those that -are found near it, is composed of a successive number [LXXXI] of -horizontal and perpendicular strata, and has about the middle a zone or -belt, consisting of a vein of petrified clay. If from these two facts it -would be inferred that at a certain height the substance of which the -horizontal and perpendicular strata are formed, is susceptible of being -hardened so as to approach the nature of stone, then we might perhaps -account in some manner for the wonderful formation of this curious -ornament. Yet the main difficulty would still remain, and we would at -last be compelled to have recourse to the system of occult qualities. -The existence of the chimney is therefore a problem, and if any -scientific person should wish to solve it, I would advise him to repair -to this monument without delay, as a cleft which is seen at the top, and -which in all probability will soon extend to the base, threatens to -leave nothing of it but the remembrance of its existence.[170] - -[Illustration: Chimney] - -The chimney is not the only remarkable mound to be met with in this vast -solitude. There are many others of various forms. One is called "the -House," another "the Castle," a third "the Fort," &c. And, in fact, if a -traveller was not convinced that he journeys through a desert, where no -other dwellings exist but the tents put up at night and removed in the -morning, he would be induced to believe them so many ancient fortresses -or Gothic castles and with a little imagination, based upon some -historical knowledge, he might think himself transported amid the -ancient mansions of Knight errantry. On one side are seen large ditches, -and high walls; on the other, avenues, gardens and orchards; farther on, -parks, ponds, and lofty trees. Sometimes the fancy presents a castle of -the middle ages, and even conjures up the lord of the manor; but instead -of all these magnificent remains of antiquity, we find only barren -mounds on all sides, filled with cliffs formed by the falling [LXXXII] -of the waters, and serving as dens to an infinite number of rattle -snakes and other venomous reptiles.[171] - -After the Missouri, which in the Far West is what the Mississippi is -in the North, the finest rivers are the Kanzas, the Platte, and the -Eau Sucree. The first of these falls into the Missouri, and receives -the waters of a great number of tributary streams. Of these -tributaries we counted as many as eighteen before we reached the -Platte. Hence we may infer that the country abounds in springs, and -that the soil is compact and covered with verdure. The reverse may be -said of the neighborhood of the Platte, where springs and verdure are -seldom seen. Even on the mounds that run parallel to its banks, the -waters that fall from the clouds, upon a sandy and porous soil, run -down into the vallies. But the prairies that receive the overflowing -waters of the river are extremely fertile, and appear beautiful in -spring, being enamelled with a great variety of flowers. The sight of -the river itself is still more pleasing; though in spite of all its -beauties, it has, like the most remarkable of its mounds, received a -vulgar name. This proceeds from the custom which some travellers have -of applying to objects the names of things with which they are well -acquainted. They have called it _Platte_ or Flat river, on account of -its width and shallowness; the former often extending six thousand -feet, whilst its depth is but from three to five feet, and sometimes -less. This want of proportion destroys its utility. Canoes cannot be -used to ascend it, and if barges sometimes come down from Fort La -Ramee to the mouth, it is because they are so constructed that they -may be converted into sledges and pushed on by the hands of men. The -author of Astoria has properly defined it "the most magnificent and -most useless of rivers." Abstraction made of its defects, nothing can -be more pleasing [LXXXIII] than the perspective which it presents to -the eye; though besides the prairie flowers and the ranunculus, its -banks bear only the eglantine and the wild vine; for on account of the -fires made in the autumn the lofty vegetation is entirely confined to -the islands that stud its surface. These islands are so numerous that -they have the appearance of a labyrinth of groves floating on the -waters. Their extraordinary position gives an air of youth and beauty -to the whole scene. If to this be added the undulations of the river, -the waving of the verdure, the alternations of light and shade, the -succession of these islands varying in form and beauty, and the purity -of the atmosphere, some idea may be formed of the pleasing sensations -which the traveller experiences on beholding a scene that seems to -have started into existence fresh from the hands of the creator. Fine -weather is common in this temperate climate. However, it happens -sometimes, though but seldom, that the clouds floating with great -rapidity open currents of air so violent, as suddenly to chill the -atmosphere and produce the most destructive hail storms. I have seen -some hailstones of the size of an egg. It is dangerous to be abroad -during these storms. A Sheyenne Indian was lately struck by a -hailstone, and remained senseless for an hour. Once as the storm was -raging near us, we witnessed a sublime sight. A spiral abyss seemed to -be suddenly formed in the air. The clouds followed each other into it -with such velocity, that they attracted all objects around them, -whilst such clouds as were too large and too far distant to feel its -influence turned in an opposite direction. The noise we heard in the -air was like that of a tempest. On beholding the conflict we fancied -that all the winds had been let loose from the four points of the -compass. It is very probable that if it had approached much nearer, -the whole caravan [LXXXIV] would have made an ascension into the -clouds, but the Power that confines the sea to its boundaries and -said--"Hitherto shalt thou come," watched over our preservation. The -spiral column moved majestically towards the North, and alighted on -the surface of the Platte. Then, another scene was exhibited to our -view. The waters, agitated by its powerful action, began to turn round -with frightful noise, and were suddenly drawn up to the clouds in a -spiral form. The column appeared to measure a mile in height; and such -was the violence of the winds which came down in a perpendicular -direction, that in the twinkling of an eye the trees were torn and -uprooted, and their boughs scattered in every direction.[172] But what -is violent does not last. After a few minutes, the frightful -visitation ceased. The column, not being able to sustain the weight at -its base was dissolved almost as quickly as it had been formed. Soon -after the sun re-appeared: all was calm and we pursued our journey. In -proportion as we proceeded towards the sources of this wonderful -river, the shades of vegetation became more gloomy, and the brows of -the mountains more cragged. Every thing seemed to wear the aspect, not -of decay, but of age, or rather of venerable antiquity. Our joy was -extatic as we sung the following Ode composed for the occasion: - - Non ce n'est plus une ombre vaine, - Mes yeux ont vu, j'en suis certain, - Dans l'azur d'un brilliant lointain, - Des Monts Rocheux la haute chaine, &c. - - O! no--it is no shadow vain, - That greets my sight--yon lofty chain - That pierces the ethereal blue; - The Rocky Mounts appear in view. - - I've seen the spotless, virgin snow, - Glist'ning like gems upon their brow-- - And o'er yon giant peak now streams - The golden light of day's first beams. - - How from their ice-clad summits, steep, - The living waters joyous leap! - And gently on thro' vallies gay, - Sweeter than honey wend their way. - - It is because on yon proud height, - The standard floats of life and light: - It is, that there th' Omnipotent - Hath pitched His everlasting tent-- - The God whose love no tongue can tell, - Among his children deigns to dwell. - - All hail! majestic Rock--the home - Where many a wand'rer yet shall come; - Where God himself, from His own heart - Shall health and peace and joy impart. - - Sorrow adieu--farewell to fear,-- - The sweet-voiced hymn of peace I hear; - Its tone hath touched the red-man's soul: - Lo! o'er his dark breast tear-drops roll. - - O! soon the silent wilderness - Shall echo with his song of praise; - And infant lips, from morn till ev'n, - Shall chaunt thy love--great King of heav'n. - - Father and God! how far above - All human thought, Thy wondrous love! - How strange the path by which Thy hand - Would lead the Tribes of this bleak land, - From darkness, crime and misery, - To live and reign in bliss with Thee! - -As I have been speaking of rivers I shall give (you) a short -geographical description of the Missouri, which I am [LXXXVI] inclined -to call my river, as I have so often ascended and descended it during -the last four years, travelled along its banks, and crossed almost all -its tributaries from the mouth of the Yellow Stone to the place where -the mighty river mingles its turbid stream with that of the peaceful -Mississippi. I have drunk the limpid waters of its sources, and the -muddy waters at its mouth, distant more than three thousand miles from -each other. The prodigious length of its course, the wildness and -impetuosity of its current have induced the Scioux to call it "the -_furious_." Whenever I crossed this magnificent river the sensations -which I experienced bordered on the sublime, and my imagination -transported me through the world of prairies which it fertilises, to -the colossal mountains whence it issues. It is in the heart of the -Rocky Mountains that the Missouri takes its rise, together with many -other magnificent streams; such as "the Father of Waters," into whose -bosom it flows, after having fertilised its own borders to a vast -extent,--the Arkansas, and the Red river, both, like itself, majestic -tributaries; the Columbia, which becomes the reservoir of all the -waters of the Oregon territory, and the Rio Colorado which after -winding its course through a gloomy and rocky desert, invigorates the -most beautiful part of California. The Missouri, properly so called, -is formed by three considerable forks that unite their waters at the -entrance of one of the passes of the Rocky mountains. The North fork -is called "the Jackson," the South "the Gallatin," and the one between -them "the Madison."[173] Each one of these is subdivided into several -small arms that flow from the mountains, and almost mingle their -waters with those of the upper forks of the Columbia on the western -side. I have drunk of both, distant only about fifty yards from each -other; for the same field of snow supplies both the Atlantic [LXXXVII] -and Pacific oceans. After the junction of the forks, the Missouri for -a considerable distance, becomes an impetuous and foaming torrent. -Below this, its bed is more spacious, and its course more tranquil. -Steep rocks of a black hue jut and rise above its current to a height -of nearly a thousand feet. The mountains, along whose base it runs, -are shaded by pines, cedars, fir and turpentine trees. Some of these -mountains present a solitary aspect, and wear a look of unspeakable -grandeur. The river, for the space of seventeen miles, is seen raging -and foaming, rolling from cataract to cataract with a roaring noise -that is repeated by all the neighboring echoes. The first of these -cataracts measures ninety-eight feet in height; the second, nineteen; -the third, forty-seven, and the fourth, twenty-six. Below the Falls, -the beautiful river of Mary,[174] flowing from the North, adds its -peaceful waters to those of the rapid and impetuous stream. Still -lower, but on the opposite side, the Dearborn and the Fancy disembogue -themselves through mouths respectively 150 feet in width.[175] After -many other rivers of considerable width and extent, we come to the -Yellow Stone, the largest but one of all the tributaries of the -Missouri, and resembling the latter in many respects. This river too -has its source in the Rocky Mountains, and is 850 yards wide at its -mouth; its bed is spacious, its current rapid; its length is about -1600 miles, and at its confluence with the Missouri it appears to be -the larger of the two. For a considerable distance above the mouth its -banks are well wooded, and its bottom lands are extensive and very -fertile.[176] The grey and black bear, the big horn, the antelope, the -stag and the common deer frequent these regions, whilst coal and iron -mines are in such abundance that for 50 years they might supply fuel -and materials to a countless number of steam engines. - -[LXXXVIII] After the Missouri has received the Yellow Stone river, its -bottom lands become more extensive; yet as little or no wood is found -on them, it may be long before attempts will be made to cultivate -them. The White Earth river coming from the North, and the Goose river -from the South, are not very considerable. The width of each at the -mouth is 300 yards. The Little Missouri, though shallow, has a rapid -current, and has its sources in the South, as also the following -streams:[177] Cane river, near the village of the Mandans; Cannon Ball -river, Winnipenhu, Sewarzena and Sheyenne river, which is navigable -for 400 miles; a rapid and muddy stream, 400 yards at the mouth;[178] -Teton river and White river, so called on account of the color of its -waters, which are unwholesome. It is navigable for 300 miles, has a -rapid current, and measures about 300 yards at its mouth. The lands -which it waters in the upper country are barren, and abound in animal -and vegetable petrifactions, whilst its banks have every where a -fantastic appearance.[179] Next and on the same side we meet the -Poncas and Running Water river, the latter of which has a fine -current. Medicine and Jacques rivers enter the Missouri from the -opposite side; the latter is also called the rendezvous of the beaver -hunters and runs nearly parallel with the Missouri.[180] After the -White Stone and the Vermillion, we find the Big Scioux river, on which -is found the fine red stone quarry explored by the Indians to make -their calumets. The Floyd and the Roger, the Maringoin, the -Nishnebatlana and the Nedowa fall into the Missouri on the Northern -side.[181] Its chief tributary, the Platte, rises like itself in the -Rocky Mountains and extends its course nearly two thousand miles. -Though it be a mile wide at the mouth yet it is shallow, as its name -indicates, and is not navigable, the two Nemahas flow from the South -and the Little [LXXXIX] Platte from the North.[182] The Kanzas, on the -South side, is about a thousand miles long, and is navigable to a -great distance. Grand river, from the North, is a wide, deep and -navigable stream. The two Charetons are found on the same side, whilst -the Osage and Gasconade rivers enter from the South. The former is an -important stream, navigable for 600 miles, and having its sources near -the waters of the Arkansas; whilst the latter, though navigable only -for 66 miles, is equally important, on account of the fine large pine -forests that supply St. Louis and the adjacent country with lumber. I -shall say nothing of the many other less remarkable tributaries of the -Missouri, such as the Blue Water, the Mine, the Bonne Femme, the -Manitoo, the Muddy, the Loutre, the Cedar, the Buffalo, the St. Johns, -the Wood river, the Charette, Bonhomme, Femme Osage, &c.[183] The -length of the Missouri, from its sources to the Yellow Stone, is 880 -miles, from the Yellow Stone to its junction with the Mississippi, is -about 2200. I subjoin a list of the Forks of its great tributaries -which I have seen and crossed. - -Beaver Head, Big Hole Fork, Stinking Water, Forks of the Jefferson, -Powder River, Tongue River, Rose-bud River, Big Horn River, Clarke -River, Rocky River, Traverse River, Loutre River, 25 Yard River, -Gallatin River, Wind River, Forks of the Yellow Stone. Horn River, -Wolf River, Bigwood River, North Fork River, South Fork River, Cabin -Pole River, Horse River, La Ramee, Eau Sucree, Forks of the Platte. -Grande Sableuse, Horse Shoe River, St. Peter's River, Red River, -Kennion River, Deer River, The Torrent, Branches of the North Fork of -the Platte. Soldier's River, Ouaggerehoosse River, Vermillion River, -Black Vermillion River, Sick River, Knife River, Blue Waters, Forks of -the Kanzas. Mary's River, [XC] Big Bone, Yungar River, Potatoes River, -Grand Fork, Forks of the Osage. - -I left off my narrative on Sugar River, otherwise called Eau Sucree; I -must interrupt it to listen to the good tidings that are brought from -the mountains. - - I remain, Rev. and Dear Father, - Your dutiful Son in Christ, - P. J. DE SMET, S.J. - - -FOOTNOTES: - -[165] Sweetwater River, for which see Wyeth's _Oregon_, in our volume -xxi, p. 53, note 33.--ED. - -[166] The route followed from the point where the trail reached the -Platte, was along the river to its forks, thence up the South Fork to -its ford, across to the North Fork at Ash Creek, along the south bank -of the former stream to the junction of the Laramie, thence continuing -by the North Fork to its crossing, near the present Caspar, Wyoming, -and along the north bank, across country to the Sweetwater, to avoid -the cañon of the North Platte.--ED. - -[167] For a brief sketch of Captain Bonneville, see our volume xx, p. -267, note 167.--ED. - -[168] The highest peaks of the Rocky Mountains, and of the whole -Cordilleran system within the boundaries of the United States, do not -much exceed fourteen thousand feet.--ED. - -[169] The sage-brush (_Artemisia tridentata_), the European species of -which is known as wormwood or absinth (_A. absinthium_). See _ante_, -p. 174, note 44.--ED. - -[170] Bidwell thus describes this landmark: "A noted landmark on the -North Fork, which we sighted fifty miles away, was Chimney Rock. It -was then nearly square, and I think it must have been fifty feet -higher than now, though after we passed it a portion fell off." -_Century Magazine_, xix, p. 118.--ED. - -[171] See engravings of these fantastically cut rocks in _Century -Magazine_, _op. cit._, p. 121.--ED. - -[172] Bidwell mentions both the cyclone with its destructive hail, and -the water-spout which passed a quarter of a mile behind the camp.--ED. - -[173] The three forks of the Missouri were named by Lewis and Clark -(1805) in honor of the president of the United States and his chief -advisers, the secretaries of state and of the treasury.--ED. - -[174] Maria's River, for which see our volume xxiii, p. 84, note -73.--ED. - -[175] Dearborn River, named by Lewis and Clark (1805) for the secretary -of war, was in reality a western affluent above, not below, the Great -Falls. By "Fancy," De Smet probably intends the stream named by Lewis -and Clark "Tansy," but now known as Teton River--a tributary, however, -of Maria's River, although approaching very near the Missouri.--ED. - -[176] For the "Yellowstone" see our volume xxii, p. 375, note 351.--ED. - -[177] On these streams see Maximilian's _Travels_, in our volume xxii, -pp. 367, 368, 369, notes 342, 344, 345.--ED. - -[178] For these rivers consult the following: Cane (Knife), our volume -xxii, p. 357, note 333; Cannonball, _ibid._, p. 338, note 306; -Winnipenhu (Grand), our volume xxiv, p. 87, note 59; Sewarzena (Moreau), -our volume v, p. 127, note 82; Cheyenne, _ibid._, p. 126, note 81.--ED. - -[179] For Teton River, South Dakota, see our volume xxiv, p. 45, note -26; for White River and its "bad lands," _ibid._, p. 90, note 64.--ED. - -[180] For Ponca Creek see our volume xxii, p. 291, note 253; the -Niobrara (Running Water) is noted in our volume v, p. 90, note 54; the -James (Jacques), in volume xxii, p. 282, note 238. Medicine is a small -creek in northeastern Nebraska.--ED. - -[181] Whitestone is the name given by Lewis and Clark to the stream -afterwards known as the Vermilion--see our volume vi, p. 87, note 31; -for the Big Sioux see _ibid._, p. 85, note 30; Floyd's Creek comes in -just below the bluff of the same name, where Sergeant Charles Floyd of -the Lewis and Clark expedition was buried--see our volume v, p. 91, note -56; the Boyer (Roger) is noted in our volume xxiv, p. 105, note 83; the -Maringoin is probably intended for the Moingoina (Des Moines), a western -tributary of the Mississippi; see our volume vi, p. 73, note 24, for the -Nishnabotna; and v, p. 37, note 5, for the Nodaway (Nedowa).--ED. - -[182] For the Nemaha see our volume vi, p. 72, note 23; the Little -Platte rises in Union County, southern Iowa, and flows southward -through that part of Missouri known as the Platte purchase.--ED. - -[183] These are all Missouri streams, mentioned for the most part by -Lewis and Clark (see _Original Journals_, index). Upon Wood River (Du -Bois) the expedition rendezvoused during the winter of 1803-04.--ED. - - - - - LETTER V - - - Fort Hall, August 16th, 1841. - - Rev. and Dear Father Provincial: - -It was on the eve of the beautiful festival of the assumption that we -met the vanguard of the Flat Heads. We met under the happiest -auspices, and our joy was proportionate. The joy of the savage is not -openly manifested--that of our dear neophytes was tranquil; but from -the beaming serenity of their looks, and the feeling manner in which -they pressed our hands, it was easy to perceive that, like the joy -which has its source in virtue, theirs was heartfelt and profound. -What had they not done to obtain a mission of "Black Gowns?" For -twenty years they had not ceased to supplicate the Father of mercies; -for twenty years, in compliance with the counsels of the poor -Iroquois, who had established [XCI] themselves in their tribe, they -had conformed, as nearly as they could, to our creed, our manners, and -even to our religious practices. In what Catholic parish was the -Sunday, for example, ever more religiously observed?--During the ten -years just elapsed, four deputations, each starting from the banks of -the Bitter Root, on which they usually assembled, had courageously -ventured to St. Louis, over a space of 3,000 miles,--over mountains -and vallies, infested by Black Feet and other hostile tribes. - -Of the first deputation, which started in 1831, three died of diseases -produced by the change of climate.[184] The second embassy reached its -destination; but owing to the great want of missionaries in the Diocess -of St. Louis, received nothing but promises. The third, which set out -in 1837, consisted of five members, all of whom were unmercifully -massacred by the Scioux.[185] All these crosses, however, were -insufficient to abate their zeal. In 1839, they sent two Iroquois -deputies, one of whom was named Peter, and the other "Young -Ignatius,"[186] to distinguish him from another called "Old Ignatius." -These they earnestly advised to make still more pressing entreaties to -obtain the long sought blessing, a "Black Gown, to conduct them to -heaven." Their prayers were, at length, heard, even beyond their hopes. -One Black Gown was granted, together with a promise of more, if -necessary for their greater good. While Peter returned in haste to the -tribe to acquaint them with the complete success of their mission, -Ignatius remained at Westport, to accompany the promised missionary. I -had the happiness to be that missionary; I visited the nation, and -became acquainted, in person, with their wants, their dispositions, and -the necessities of the neighboring tribes. After an absence of a year, -I was now returning to them no longer alone, but with two Fathers, -[XCII] three brothers, laborers and all that was essential to the -success of the expedition. They themselves had travelled upwards of 800 -miles to meet us, and now, that we were together, both parties were full -of vigor and hope. What joy must not these good Indians, at that moment, -have experienced. Being unable, however, to express their happiness, -they were silent; their silence surely could not be ascribed to a -deficiency of intelligence or a want of sentiment, for the Flat Heads -are full of feeling, and many are truly intelligent. These, too, were -the _elite_ of the nation. Judge of it by what follows. - -The chief of this little embassy portrayed himself in the following -address to his companions, a few days subsequently on viewing the plan -of the first hamlet: "My dear children," said he, "I am but an ignorant -and wicked man, yet I thank the Great Spirit for the favors which he has -conferred on us,--(and entering here into an admirable detail, he -concluded thus:) Yes, my dear friends, my heart has found content; -notwithstanding my wickedness I despair not of the goodness of God. -Henceforth, I wish to live only that I may pray; I will never abandon -prayer; (religion) I will pray until the end of my life, and when I die -I will commit myself into the hands of the Author of life; if he condemn -me, I shall submit to his will, for I have deserved punishment; if he -save me, I shall bless him forever. Once more, then, my heart has found -content.--What shall we do to evince the love we bear our fathers?" Here -he made practical resolutions, but I must hasten to commemorate the zeal -of each of those who formed the embassy. - -Simon, who had been baptised the preceding year, was the oldest of the -nation, and was so burdened with the weight of years, that even when -seated, he needed a stick [XCIII] for his support. Yet, he had no -sooner ascertained that we were on our route to join the tribe, than -mounting his horse and mingling with the young warriors who were -prepared to go forth to meet us, he said: "My children, I shall -accompany you; if I die on the way, our Fathers, at least, will know -the cause of my death." During the course of the journey, he -repeatedly exhorted his companions: "courage, my children," he would -say, "remember that we are going to the presence of our Fathers;" and -urging his steed forward, whip in hand, he led on his youthful -followers, at the rate of fifty miles per day. - -Francis, a boy from six to seven years old, grandson of Simon, was an -orphan from the very cradle. Having served at the altar, the preceding -year, he would not be refused permission to accompany his grandfather: -his heart told him that he was about to recover father and mother, and -enjoy all the happiness that loving parents can bestow. - -Ignatius, who had advised the fourth deputation, and had been a member -of it,--who had succeeded in his mission, and introduced the first -Black Gown into the tribe,--who had just recently exposed himself to -new dangers, in order to introduce others, had crowned his zealous -exertions by running for days without eating or drinking, solely that -he might reach us the sooner. - -Pilchimo, his companion and brother to one of the martyrs of the third -deputation, was a young warrior, already reputed brave among the -brave. The preceding year, his presence of mind and his courage had -saved seventy of his brethren in arms from the fury of nearly nineteen -hundred Black Feet.[187] - -Francis Xavier was the son of old Ignatius, who had been the leader of -the second and third deputation, and had [XCIV] fallen a victim to his -devotion to the cause of religion and of his brethren. Francis Xavier -had gone to St. Louis at the age of ten, in the company of his -courageous father, solely that he might have the happiness of receiving -baptism. He had finally attached himself without reserve to the service -of the mission, and supplied our table with a daily mess of fish.[188] - -Gabriel, who was of mixed blood, but an adopted child of the nation, -was interpreter for the missionaries. Being the first to join us on -the banks of the Green river, he merited the title of precursor of the -Flat Heads. His bravery and zeal had four times induced him to travel, -for our sakes, over a space of 400 miles, which separated us from the -great camp. - -Such were they who now greeted us. Let them tell their own story. - -They had prayed daily to obtain for me a happy journey and a speedy -return. Their brethren continued in the same good disposition; almost -all, even children and old men, knew by heart the prayers which I had -taught them the preceding year. Twice on every week day, and three -times on each Sunday, the assembled tribe recited prayers in common. -Whenever they moved their camp, they carried with them, as an ark of -safety, the box of ornaments left in their custody. Five or six -children, whom I had baptised went to heaven during my absence; the -very morrow of my departure, a young warrior whom I had baptised the -day previous, died in consequence of a wound received from the Black -Feet about three months before.--Another, who had accompanied me as -far as the fort of the Crows, and was as yet but a catechumen, died -of sickness in returning to the tribe, but in such happy dispositions -that his mother was perfectly consoled for his loss by the conviction -[XCV] that his soul was in heaven. A girl, about twelve years of age, -seeing herself on the point of dying, had solicited baptism with such -earnestness that she was baptised by Peter the Iroquois, and received -the name of Mary.--After having sung a canticle in a stronger voice -than usual, she died, saying: "Oh how beautiful! I see Mary, my -mother." So many favors from heaven were calculated to instigate the -malice of hell. The enemies of salvation had accordingly attempted to -sow the cockle among the good grain, by suggesting to the chiefs of -the tribe that my conduct would be like that of so many others, who, -"once gone, had never returned." But the great chief had invariably -replied: "You wrong our father; he is not double-tongued, like so many -others. He has said: 'I will return,' and he will return, I am sure." -The interpreter added that it was this conviction which had impelled -the venerable old man, notwithstanding his advanced age, to place -himself at the head of the detachment bound for Green river; that they -had arrived at the rendezvous on the 1st of July, which was the -appointed day; that they had remained there till the 16th, and would -have continued to occupy the same position, had not the scarcity of -provisions obliged them to depart. He stated also that the whole tribe -had determined to fix upon some spot as a site for a permanent -village; that, with this view, they had already chosen two places -which they believed to be suitable; that nothing but our presence was -required to confirm their determination; and they relied with such -implicit confidence on our speedy arrival, that the great chief, on -starting from Green river, had left there three men to await us, -advising them to hold that position until no longer tenable. - -Here, I have much to relate that is not less edifying than serious; -but before I enter upon the chapter of noble actions, [XCVI] I must -conclude what I had commenced in my preceding letter. But I feel -bound, before all, to pay Mr. Ermatinger, the captain of Fort Hall, -the tribute of gratitude which we owe him.[189] - -Although a protestant by birth, this noble Englishman gave us a most -friendly reception. Not only did he repeatedly invite us to his table, -and sell us, at first cost, or at one-third of its value, in a country -so remote, whatever we required; but he also added, as pure gifts, -many articles which he believed would be particularly acceptable. He -did more: he promised to recommend us to the good will of the Governor -of the honorable English Company, who was already prepossessed in our -favor; and, what is still more deserving of praise, he assured us that -he would second our ministry among the populous nation of the Snakes, -with whom he has frequent intercourse. So much zeal and generosity -give him a claim to our esteem and gratitude. May heaven return to him -a hundred fold the benefits he has conferred on us. It was at Fort -Hall that we took our final leave of the American Colony, with which -we had, till then, pursued the same route.[190] It was previously to -this, while we were yet at Green river, that those who came to that -wild region, merely for information or pleasure, had turned back, -with some fewer illusions than when they started out upon the journey. -They were five or six in number.[191] Among them was a young -Englishman, who had been our messmate from St. Louis. In taking leave -of us, this young man, who was in many respects estimable, assured us -that, if providence should ever again throw us together, the meeting -would give him the highest satisfaction, and that he would always be -happy to do us all the service in his power. He was of a good English -family, and like most of his countrymen, fond of travel: he had -[XCVII] already seen the four quarters of the globe; but _qui multum -peregrinantur_.... He cherished so many prejudices, however, against -the Catholic religion, that, despite all our good wishes, we were of -no service to him in the most essential relation. We recommended him -to our friends. I have treasured up one of his beautiful reflections: -"We must travel in the desert to witness the watchful care of -Providence over the wants of man." - -They who had started, purely with the design of seeking their fortune in -California, and were pursuing their enterprise with the constancy which -is characteristic of Americans, had left us, but a few days before our -arrival at the fort, in the vicinity of the boiling springs which empty -into Bear river.[192] There now remained with us but a few of the party, -who had come to the fort in order to revictual. Among the latter were -the leader of the Colony and a reputed deacon of the Methodist -sect.[193] Both were of a peaceable disposition, and manifested for us -the highest regard; but the former, like so many others, being very -indifferent as to religious matters, held as a maxim, "that it was best -to have no religion, or else to adopt that of the country in which we -live;" and wishing to display his great Bible erudition, he in proof of -his paradox, cited as a text of St. Paul the ancient proverb: _Si fueris -Romæ, Romano vivite more_. The minister was of the same opinion, but yet -he wished some religion, it being well understood that his was the best. -I say _his_, because he was neither _a_ Methodist, _a_ Protestant, nor -_a_ Catholic--not even a Christian; he maintained that a Jew, a Turk, or -an Idolatar may be as agreeable as any other in the sight of God. For -the proof of his doctrine, he relied (strange to say) on the authority -of St. Paul, and particularly on this text: _Unus Dominus una fides_. In -fact, these were the very words with which he [XCVIII] greeted us, the -first time we saw him, and which formed the subject of a long -valedictory discourse that he delivered in one of the meeting houses of -Westport, previous to his departure for his western mission. By whom was -he sent? We have never ascertained. His zeal frequently induced him to -dispute with us; it was not difficult to show him that his ideas, with -the exception of one, were vague and fluctuating. He acknowledged it -himself; but after having wandered from point to point, he always -returned to his favorite tenet, which, according to him, was the -fundamental principle of all true belief: "that the love of God is the -first of duties, and that to inculcate it we must be tolerant." This was -his strongest point of support, the foundation of all his reasoning, and -the stimulus of his zeal. The term Catholic, according to him, was but -another word for "love and philanthropy." He carried his absurdities -and contradictions so far, that he excited the hilarity of the whole -camp. His ingenuous simplicity was even greater than his tolerance. For -example, he once said to me: "Yesterday one of the members of my -persuasion returned to me a book which I had lent him, stating that it -contained an exposition of the Roman creed." When I asked him his -opinion of it, he replied, "that the book was full of errors;" yet it -was an exposition of Methodist principles that I had given him. -"Witness," said he, with emphasis, "the blinding influence of -prejudice." - -I had daily conversations with someone of the caravan, and frequently -with several. And although Americans are slow to change their creed, -we had the consolation to relieve our travelling companions of a heavy -load of prejudice against our holy religion. They parted from us, -exhibiting signs of respect and veneration; nay, even of preference -for Catholicity. These controversies so completely [XCIX] engrossed my -mind, my heart and my senses, that I arrived almost unconsciously on -the banks of Snake river. Here a great danger and a profitable lesson -awaited us; but before speaking of the adventures of our journey, I -shall conclude what remains to be related of the country we traversed. - -We halted with our narrative upon the shore of the Sweet-water. This -stream is one of the most beautiful tributaries of the Platte. It owes -its name, indeed, to the purity of its waters. It is distinguished from -its fellow tributaries by the numerous wanderings of its current--a -proof that the fall of its bed is but slight. But suddenly changing its -course, we see or rather hear it rushing impetuously through a long -cleft in a chain of mountains. These mountains, which harmonize well -with the torrent, exhibit the most picturesque scenes; travellers -have named this spot the Devil's Entrance.[194] In my opinion, they -should have rather called it Heaven's Avenue, for if it resembles hell -on account of the frightful disorder which frowns around it, it is still -a mere passage, and it should rather be compared to the way of heaven on -account of the scene to which it leads. Imagine, in short, two rows of -rocks, rising perpendicularly to a wonderful height, and, at the foot of -these shapeless walls, a winding bed, broken, encumbered with trunks of -trees, with rubbish, and with timber of all dimensions; while, in the -midst of this chaos of obstacles, the roaring waves force a passage, now -rushing with fury, then swelling with majesty, and anon spreading with -gentleness, according as they find in their course a wider or more -straitened passage. Above these moving and noisy scenes, the eye -discerns masses of shadow, here relieved by a glance of day, there -deepening in their gloom by the foliage of a cedar or pine, till -finally, as the sight travels [C] through the long vista of lofty -galleries, it is greeted by a distant perspective of such mild beauty, -that a sentiment of placid happiness steals upon the mind. Such is the -spectacle we admired at the distance of nine or ten miles from the Rock -Independence, on the morning of 6th July. I doubt whether the solitude -of the Carthusian monastery, called La Grande Chartreuse, of which so -many wonders are related, can, at least at first sight, offer greater -attractions to him whom divine grace has called to a contemplative life. -As for me, who am not called to such a state, at least exclusively, -after an hour of raptures, I began to understand the expression of the -Carthusian friar, _pulchrum transeuntibus_; and I hasten to proceed. - -[Illustration: Devil's Gate] - -Hence we directed our course more and more towards the heights of the -Far West, ascending, some times clambering, until we reached the -summit, from which we discovered another world.[195] On the 7th of -July we were in sight of the immense Oregon Territory. I will not -presume to add to the many pompous descriptions which have been given -of the spectacle now before us. I shall say nothing either of the -height, the number, or the variety of those peaks, covered with -eternal snows, which rear their heads, with menacing aspect, to the -heavens. Nor will I speak of the many streams descending from them and -changing their course, with unexpected suddenness; nor of the extreme -rarification of the air with the consequent effect upon objects -susceptible of contraction, at so great an elevation. All this is -common; but to the glory of the Lord, I must commemorate the imperious -necessity I experienced, of tracing his holy name upon a rock, which -towered pre-eminent amid the grandeur around. May that ever adorable -name be to travellers a monument of our gratitude, and a pledge of -salvation. Henceforth we descended [CI] towards the Pacific--first, by -following, then by crossing the Little and the Great Sandy -Rivers.[196] In the vicinity of the latter, as the Captain had -mistaken one road for another, the caravan wandered for three days at -random. I, myself, on a fine evening, strayed from the rest. I thought -myself entirely lost; how was I to act? I did what every sincere -believer would have done in the same circumstances, I prayed; and then -urging on my horse, I travelled several miles, when it struck me that -it would be prudent to retrace my steps. I did so instantly, and it -was fortunate, for the caravan was far behind. I found it encamped; -still ignorant however of its position, and on a soil so arid that our -jaded beasts were necessitated to fast for the night. Days follow, but -resemble not each other; two days subsequently, we were surrounded -with abundance, filled with joy, all once more united, and on the -banks of a river not less celebrated among the hunters of the west, -than the shores of the Platte. This river loses itself not far below, -in clefts of rocks said to be no less than two hundred miles in -extent, among which there are countless swarms of beavers, although -the trapper has never ventured to hunt them, on account of the extreme -peril of the enterprise. At a certain period of the year, both -trappers and Indians flock to this spot, for the purpose of bartering -all kinds of merchandise. It was here, but eight years ago, the wagons -that first undertook to cross the Rocky Mountains,[197] found the -Pillars of Hercules, and it was here too that we found the messenger -of the Flat Heads, to whom I have already alluded. This river is the -Rio Colorado of the West.[198] ... We rested two days upon its banks, -with the company of Captain F., who had just returned from -California.[199] What they told us concerning that distant country -dissipated many illusions, and caused [CII] some of our companions, -who travelled for amusement, to return. - -On the 20th of July we seriously thought of continuing our journey. To -a company like ours, it was not an easy matter. The remembrance of the -expedition of Bonneville was still fresh in the minds of all; but our -object was not the same; we had no articles but such as were -necessary.--They could be transported conveniently only by wagons. We -placed all our confidence in God. We soon crossed the river, and our -equipage was seen coming in all directions, over vallies and -mountains. We were compelled to clear a passage, some times in the -middle of a ravine, some times on the declivity of a rock, and -frequently through bushes. We travelled in this manner for ten days, -to reach Bear river, which flows through a wide and beautiful valley, -surrounded by lofty mountains and often intersected by inaccessible -rocks. We continued our march through it during eight successive days. -The river resembles in its course the form of a horse shoe, and falls -into the great Salt lake, which has no communication with the sea. On -our way, we met several families of Soshonees or Snake Indians, and -Soshocos or Uprooters. They speak the same language, and are both -friends to the whites. The only difference we could observe between -them, was that the latter were by far the poorer.[200] They formed a -grotesque group, such as is not to be seen in any other part of the -Indian territory. Represent to yourself a band of wretched horses, -disproportionate in all their outlines, loaded with bags and boxes -to a height equal to their own, and these surmounted by rational -beings young and old, male and female, in a variety of figures and -costumes, to which the pencil of a Hogarth or a Breugel could scarcely -do justice, and you will have an idea of the scene we witnessed. One -[CIII] of these animals, scarcely four feet high, had for its load -four large sacks of dried meat, two on each side, above which were -tied several other objects, terminating in a kind of platform on the -back of the living beast; and, on the summit of the whole -construction, at a very high elevation, was seated cross-legged on a -bear skin a very old person smoking his calumet. At his side, on -another Rosinante,[201] was mounted an old Goody, probably his wife, -seated in the same manner on the top of sacks and bags, that contained -all sorts of roots, dried beans and fruits, grains and berries; in -short, all such comestibles as the barren mountains and the beautiful -vallies afford. These they carried to their winter encampment. Some -times we have seen a whole family on the same animal, each according -to his age, the children in front, the women next, and the men behind. -On two occasions I saw thus mounted, five persons, of whom two at -least had the appearance of being as able to carry the poor horse as -the horse was to support the weight of these two Soshocos gentlemen. - -[Illustration: Soda Springs] - -Some places on the Bear river exhibit great natural curiosities. A -square plain of a few acres in extent presents an even surface of -fuller's earth of pure whiteness, like that of marble, and resembling -a field covered with dazzling snow. Situated near this plain are a -great many springs, differing in size and temperature. Several of them -have a slight taste of soda, and the temperature of these, is cold. -The others are of a milk warm temperature, and must be wholesome; -perhaps they are not inferior to the celebrated waters of the Spa, or -of the lime springs in Belgium. I am inclined to believe so, though I -am not firm in the opinion; at all events, they are surrounded by the -mountains over which our wagons found it so difficult to pass. I -therefore invite neither sick nor sound to test them. In the same -[CIV] locality there is a hole in the ground, out of which air and -water escape alternately. The earth for some distance around resounds -like an immense vault, and is apt to frighten the solitary traveller -as he passes along.[202] - -It was here that we left Bear River. On the 14th of August our wagons -having proceeded ten hours without intermission, arrived at the outlet -of a defile which seemed to us the end of the world. On our right and -left were frightful mountains; in our rear a road which we were by no -means tempted to retrace; in front a passage through which rushed a -torrent; but so small that the torrent itself seemed with difficulty, to -force its way.[203] Our beasts of burthen were, for the first time, -exhausted. Murmurs arose against the captain, who, however, was -imperturbable, and as he never shrunk from difficulties, advanced to -reconnoitre the ground.[204] In a few moments he made us a sign to -approach; one hour after we had surmounted every obstacle, for we had -traversed the highest chain of the Rocky Mountains and were nearly in -sight of Fort Hall. On the evening previous to the departure of the -camp from the Soda Springs, I directed my course towards the fort, to -make a few necessary arrangements. The young F. Xavier was my only -companion. We were soon involved in a labyrinth of mountains, and about -midnight, we were on the summit of the highest chain. My poor guide, -being able to see nothing through the darkness but frightful precipices, -was so pitifully embarrassed that after veering about for a while, like -a weather-cock, he confessed himself lost. That was not a place, nor was -it a time, to wander at random; I, therefore, took, what I considered, -the only alternative, that of waiting for the morning sun to extricate -us from our embarrassment. Wrapped up in my blanket and with my saddle -for a pillow, I stretched myself upon the rock, and [CV] immediately -fell into a sound sleep. Early the next morning, we descended by a small -cleft in the rocks, which the obscurity of the night had concealed and -arrived on a plain watered by the New Port, one of the tributaries of -Snake River. We trotted or gallopped over fifty miles in the course of -the day. The whole way presented evident remains of volcanic eruptions; -piles and veins of lava were visible in all directions, and the rocks -bore marks of having been in a state of fusion. The river, in its whole -length, exhibits a succession of beaver ponds, emptying into each other -by a narrow opening in each dike, thus forming a fall of between three -and six feet. All these dikes are of stone, evidently the work of the -water and of the same character and substance as the stalactites found -in some caverns.[205] - -We arrived late in the evening, within half a mile of the Fort, but -being unable to see our way in the darkness, and not knowing where we -were, we encamped for the night among the bushes, near the margin of a -small brook. - -I have the honor to be - - Rev. Father Provincial, - Your most humble and obedient servant and son, - P. J. DE SMET, S.J. - -FOOTNOTES: - -[184] For this first deputation see Townsend's _Narrative_, in our -volume xxi, p. 138, note 13. The deputies apparently arrived in the -autumn of 1831 and passed the winter in or near the city, where two of -their number died. See Chittenden and Richardson, _De Smet_, i, pp. -21, 22.--ED. - -[185] Both the second and third embassies were headed by the Iroquois -Indian known as "Old Ignace," otherwise Ignace la Mousse, who was -educated at the mission of Caughnawaga, and had gone to the Rocky -Mountains between 1812 and 1820. The Iroquois were much employed by -the North West Company and later by the Hudson's Bay Company, to -assist fur-trading parties in the Far West. Ignace settled among the -Flatheads, where he married, and taught the tribe the rudiments of the -religion he had learned at the Canadian mission. Townsend (see our -volume xxi) notes their observance of Sunday, and forms of worship. -The delegation which Ignace undertook for the purpose of securing a -"black robe," set out in 1835. His first intention was to visit -Canada, but learning that Jesuits were at St. Louis he journeyed -thither, taking with him his two sons to be baptized. See Palladino, -_Indian and White in the Northwest_, pp. 19, 20, where a record of -this baptism is given. Again in 1837, Ignace headed a second -delegation. Upon the South Platte they were overtaken by a band of -Sioux, who at first dismissed Ignace, for he was dressed as a white -man. Unwilling to abandon his companions, he declared himself an -Indian, whereupon all were killed after a brave defense.--ED. - -[186] Young Ignace, who accompanied Father de Smet on his first visit -(1840) to the Flatheads, became a zealous convert, and lived at St. -Ignatius mission until his death in the winter of 1875-76.--ED. - -[187] For further details of this exploit of Pilchimo see letter ix, -_post_.--ED. - -[188] This Indian was known as Francis Saxa, and as late as 1903 was -living on his own ranch in Missoula County. See his portrait in -Palladino, _Indian and White in the Northwest_, p. 20.--ED. - -[189] Francis Ermatinger, one of the chief factors for the Hudson's Bay -Company, came to the Columbia region about 1824; two years later he was -in command of Fort Kamloops when Governor Simpson passed that way. In -1828, he appears to have been stationed at Fort Okinagan on the upper -Columbia, while Wyeth met him in the Snake River country in 1832-34. He -married a niece of Madame McLoughlin, wife of the governor of Vancouver, -and held various important stations. In the autumn of the year in which -De Smet encountered him, he led the brigade into California as far as -Yerba Buena (San Francisco). Upon the establishment of the provincial -government in Oregon, he was elected (1845) treasurer. He is thought to -have ultimately retired to Canada.--ED. - -[190] For Fort Hall see our volume xxi, p. 210, note 51 -(Townsend).--ED. - -[191] Bidwell (_Century Magazine_, xix, p. 120) gives the names of -three in addition to Romaine, the Englishman--Peyton, Rodgers, and -Amos E. Frye. Thirty-two of the California party went on to Fort Hall -with the missionaries, while the remainder, among them Bidwell, -branched off to the west from Soda Springs.--ED. - -[192] For Bear River and Soda Springs see Townsend's _Narrative_, in -our volume xxi, pp. 199, 200, notes 44, 45.--ED. - -[193] According to Bidwell (_op. cit._, p. 120), these two men were -Bartleson, from Jackson County, Missouri, and "a Methodist Episcopal -preacher, whose name I think was also Williams."--ED. - -[194] This cañon of the Sweetwater is about five miles above -Independence Rock. It is a cut about three hundred yards long, and -thirty-five wide through a spur of the mountains in Natrona County, -Wyoming. See illustration of cañon in Frémont's "Exploring Tour," -_Senate Docs._, 28 Cong., 2 sess., 174, p. 57.--ED. - -[195] The ascent of the South Pass is so gradual that without -instruments it is difficult to know when one attains the summit. See -Wyeth's _Oregon_, in our volume xxi, p. 58, note 37.--ED. - -[196] For Little and Big Sandy, see Townsend's _Narrative_, in our -volume xxi, p. 187, note 36. The former was the beginning of -Sublette's Cut Off, sometimes called the "Dry Drive," because of -scarcity of water on the route. This crossed directly to Bear River, -without passing southward by Fort Bridger. Such would seem to have -been the route taken by De Smet's company. The regular trail went down -the Big Sandy, forded Green River near its forks, and proceeded across -to the site of Fort Bridger, founded two years later.--ED. - -[197] Captain Bonneville's expedition of 1832 was the first to cross -the Green River in wagons. See Irving, _Rocky Mountains_, chapter -ii.--ED. - -[198] They were in reality upon Green River, a tributary of the -Colorado. See Wyeth's _Oregon_, in our volume xxi, p. 60, note -38.--ED. - -[199] Captain Henry Fraeb (Frapp), who was one of the partners of the -Rocky Mountain Fur Company (1830-34). He was well known in the -mountain fur-trade, frequently being associated therein with -Fitzpatrick, De Smet's guide. According to Bidwell, he was killed the -night after leaving this party; Frémont says--_Exploring Expedition_, -p. 40--that this occurred the latter part of August, 1841, in a battle -with Sioux and Cheyenne.--ED. - -[200] This tribe is often classified with the Digger Indians, for whom -see _ante_, p. 167, note 38; but the latter possessed no horses. The -Soshocoes (Shoshocoes) appear to be a band of the Shoshoni -proper--closely allied, as De Smet notes, but with less property, and -less virile in character. They were the branch of Shoshoni which had -their roving habitat along the banks of the Green River; whereas the -Shoshoni (or Snake) roved chiefly on Lewis River.--ED. - -[201] The name of Don Quixote's steed, a charger all skin and -bone.--ED. - -[202] For these springs see Townsend's _Narrative_, in our volume xxi, -p. 200, note 45.--ED. - -[203] This was the route by which the trail crossed from the waters of -the Colorado to those of the Lewis, a difficult mountain path in -Bannock County, Idaho, approximating the route of the Oregon Short -Line Railway.--ED. - -[204] The captain and guide of this expedition was Thomas Fitzpatrick, -for whom see Townsend's _Narrative_, in our volume xxi, p. 192, note -40. See De Smet's letter recommending his services, in Chittenden and -Richardson, _De Smet_, iv, p. 1465.--ED. - -[205] The Portneuf River, for which see our volume xxi, p. 209, note -49 (Townsend). This characteristic of the Portneuf--a series of dams -of mineral deposit--make it a beautiful succession of still, dark -pools and foaming cascades, and may now be noted from the windows of -trains on the Oregon Short Line Railway.--ED. - - - - - LETTER VI - - - Camp of the Big-Face, 1st Sept. 1841. - - Rev. and Dear Father Provincial: - -Nearly four months had elapsed since our departure from Westport, when -we met the main body of the nation to which we had been sent. Here we -found the principal chiefs, four of whom had advanced a day's journey -to welcome us. They met us at one of the sources of the Missouri -called Beaver-Head, where we had encamped.[206] Having crossed the -small river under the direction of these new guides we came to an -extensive plain, at the western part of which the Flat Heads lay -encamped. This was on the 30th of August, and it was only towards -night that we could distinctly discern the camp. A number of runners -who rapidly succeeded each other, informed us that the camp was not -far distant. Contentment and joy were depicted on their countenances. -Long before the Flat Head warrior, who is surnamed the Bravest of the -Brave, sent me his finest horse to Fort Hall, having strongly -recommended that no one should mount him before he was presented to -me. Soon after the warrior himself appeared, distinguished by his -superior skill in horsemanship, and by a large red scarf, which he -wore after the fashion of the Marshals of France. He is the handsomest -Indian warrior of my acquaintance. He came with a numerous retinue. We -proceeded at a brisk trot, and were now but two or three miles from -the camp, when at a distance we decried a warrior of [CVII] lofty -stature. A number of voices shouted Paul! Paul! and indeed it was -Paul, the great chief, who had just arrived after a long absence, as -if by special permission of God, to afford him the satisfaction of -introducing me personally to his people.[207] After mutual and very -cordial demonstrations of friendship, the good old chief insisted upon -returning to announce our arrival. In less than half an hour all -hearts were united and moved by the same sentiments. The tribe had the -appearance of a flock crowding with eagerness around their shepherd. -The mothers offered us their little children, and so moving was the -scene that we could scarcely refrain from tears. This evening was -certainly one of the happiest of our lives. We could truly say that we -had reached the peaceful goal. All previous dangers, toils and trials, -were at an end and forgotten. The hopeful thought that we would soon -behold the happy days of the primitive Christians revive among these -Indians, filled our minds, and the main subject of our conversations -became the question: "What shall we do to comply with the requisitions -of our signal vocation?" - -I engaged Father Point, who is skilled in drawing and architecture, -to trace the plan of the Missionary Stations. In my mind, and still -more in my heart, the material was essentially connected with the -moral and religious plan. Nothing appeared to us more beautiful than -the _Narrative of Muratori_.[208] We had made it our Vade Mecum. It is -chiefly to these subjects that we shall devote our attention for the -future, bidding farewell to all fine perspectives, animals, trees and -flowers, or favoring them only with an occasional and hasty glance. - -From Fort Hall we ascended the Snake River, also called Lewis' Fork, -as far as the mouth of Henry's Fort. This is unquestionably the most -barren of all the mountain [CVIII] deserts. It abounds in absynth, -cactus, and all such plants and herbs as are chiefly found on arid -lands.[209] We had to resort to fishing for the support of life, and -our beasts of burden were compelled to fast and pine; for scarcely a -mouthful of grass could be found during the eight days which it took -us to traverse this wilderness. At a distance we beheld the colossal -summits of the Rocky Mountains. The three Tetons were about fifty -miles to our right, and to the left we had the three mounds at a -distance of thirty miles.[210] - -From the mouth of Henry's Fork we steered our course towards the -mountains over a sandy plain furrowed by deep ravines, and covered -with blocks of granite. We spent a day and night without water. On the -following day we came to a small brook, but so arid is this porous -soil, that its waters are soon lost in the sand. On the third day of -this truly fatiguing journey we entered into a beautiful defile, where -the verdure was both pleasing and abundant, as it is watered by a -copious rivulet. We gave to this passage the name of "the Father's -Defile," and to the rivulet that of St. Francis Xavier.[211] From the -Father's Defile, to the place of our destination, the country is well -watered, for it abounds with small lakes and rivulets, and is -surrounded by mountains, at whose base are found numberless springs. -In no part of the world is the water more limpid or pure, for whatever -may be the depth of the rivers, the bottom is seen as if there were -nothing to intercept the view. The most remarkable spring which we -have seen in the mountains, is called the Deer's lodge. It is found on -the bank of the main Fork of the Bitter Root or St. Mary's River; to -this Fork I have given the name of St. Ignatius.[212] This spring is -situated on the top of a mound thirty feet high, in the middle of a -marsh. It is accessible [CIX] on one side only. The water bubbles up, -and escapes through a number of openings at the base of the mound, the -circumference of which appears to be about sixty feet. The waters at -the base are of different temperatures: hot, lukewarm and cold, though -but a few steps distant from each other. Some are indeed so hot that -meat may be boiled in them. We actually tried the experiment. - - I remain, Rev. Father Provincial, - Yours, &c. - P. J. DE SMET, S.J. - - - - - LETTER VII - - - St. Ignatius' River, 10th Sept. 1841. - - Rev. and Dear Father Provincial: - -I informed your Reverence that flowers are found in abundance near the -rock called the Chimney. Whilst we were there Father Point culled one -flower of every kind, and made a fine nosegay in honor of the Sacred -heart of Jesus, on the day of the Feast. As we proceeded towards the -Black Hills, the flowers diminished in number, but now and then we -found some which we had not seen any where. I have taken notice of -many of them, for the amusement of amateurs. Among such as are double, -the most common and those that are chiefly characterised by the soil -on which they grow, are to be found on this side the Platte River. -The rose-colored lupine flourishes in the plain contiguous to the -Platte, as far as the Chimney. Beyond it grows a medicinal plant, -bearing a yellow flower with five petals, called the prairie epinette; -and still farther on, where the soil is extremely barren, are seen -three kinds of the prickly-pear; the flowers of these are beautiful, -and known among Botanists by the name of _Cactus Americana_. They have -already been naturalized in the flower gardens of Europe. The colors -of the handsomest roses are less pure and lively than the carnation of -this beautiful flower. The exterior of the chalice is adorned with all -the shades of red and green. The petals are evasated like those of the -lily. It is better [CXI] adapted than the rose to serve as an emblem -of the vain pleasures of this nether world, for the thorns that -surround it are more numerous, and it almost touches the ground. Among -the Simples, the most elegant is the blue-bell of our gardens, which -however, far surpasses it by the beauty of its form, and the nicety of -its shades, varying from the white to the deepest azure. Adam's -Needle, found only on the most barren elevation, is the finest of all -pyramidals. About the middle of its stem, which is generally about -three feet high, begins a pyramid of flowers, growing close to each -other, highly shaded with red, and diminishing in size as they -approach the summit, which terminates in a point. Its foot is -protected by a number of hard, oblong, ribbed, and sharp leaves, which -have given it the name of Adam's Needle. The root is commonly of the -thickness of a man's arm, its color white, and its form resembling -that of the carrot. The Indians eat it occasionally and the Mexicans -use it to manufacture soap.[213] There are many other varieties of -flowers some of them very remarkable and rare even in America, which -are still without a name even among travellers. To one of the -principal, distinguished by having its bronzed leaves disposed in such -a manner as to imitate the chapter of a Corinthian column, we have -given the name of Corinthian. Another, a kind of straw color, by the -form of its stem, and its division into twelve branches, brought to -our minds the famous dream of the Patriarch Joseph, and we have called -it the Josephine. A third, the handsomest of all the daisies (Reines -Marguerites) that I have ever seen, having a yellow disk, with black -and red shades, and seven or eight rays, any of which would form a -fine flower, has been named by us the Dominical, not only because it -appeared like the Lady and Mistress of all the flowers around, but -also because we discovered it on Sunday. - -[CXII] SHRUBS. The shrubs that bear fruit are few. The most common are -the currant and gooseberry of various sizes and colors, the hawthorn, -the rasberry, the wild cherry and the service-berry. Currants, white, -red, black and yellow, grow every where along the mountains. The best -are found on the plains, where they are exposed to be ripened by the -sun. I have classed the wild cherry and the service-berry among shrubs, -because they are generally of low growth and do not deserve the name of -trees. The service-berry (_cornier_) grows on a real shrub, and is a -delicious fruit, called by travellers the mountain pear, though it bears -no resemblance to the pear, its size being that of a common cherry. The -mountain cherry differs much from the European cherry. The fruit hangs -in clusters around the branches, and is smaller than the wild cherry, -whilst its taste and color, and the form of the leaves are nearly the -same as those of the latter. Cherries and service-berries constitute a -great portion of the Indians' food whilst the season lasts, and they are -dried by them to serve for food in the winter. I may perhaps mention -other fruits, plants and roots, that grow spontaneously in different -parts of the Far West, and are used as food by the Indians for want of -better sustenance. - -Flax is very common in the valleys between the mountains. What must -appear singular is that the root of it is so fruitful that it will -produce new stems for a number of years--we examined one of them, and -found attached to it about 30 stems, which had sprung from it in -former years. Hemp is also found, but in very small quantities. - -TREES. There are but few species of trees in the regions which we -lately passed. Scarcely any forests are found on the banks of rivers, -for which I have already assigned a reason. On the plains we find -bushes, and now and then [CXIII] the willow, the alder, the wax tree, -the cotton tree, or white poplar whose bark is used for horse feed in -winter, and the aspen whose leaves are always trembling. Some -Canadians have conceived a very superstitious idea of this tree. They -say that of its wood the Cross was made on which our Saviour was -nailed, and that since the time of the crucifixion, its leaves have -not ceased to tremble! The only lofty trees found on the mountains are -the pine and the cedar which is either white or red. The latter is -chiefly used for furniture, as it is the most resistible wood of the -West. There are several species of the pine: the Norwegian, the -resinous, the white, and the elastic, so called because the Indians -use it to make bows. - -So great is the violence of the winds in the vicinity of the Black -Hills, that the cotton wood, which is almost the only tree that grows -there, displays the most fantastic shapes. I have seen some whose -branches had been so violently twisted that they became incorporated -with the trunk, and after this, grew in such strange forms and -directions that at a distance it was impossible to distinguish what -part of the tree was immediately connected with the roots. - -BIRDS. I shall say but little of the birds. They are various in form, -color and size; from the pelican and the swan to the wren and the -humming bird. Muratori, speaking of the last, compares him to the -nightingale, and is astonished that such shrill and loud sounds should -proceed from so small a body. The celebrated author must have been -mistaken, unless the humming bird of South America be different from -that of the Rocky Mountains. The latter does not sing but makes a -humming noise with his wings as he flies from flower to flower. - -REPTILES. With respect to reptiles, they have been frequently -described, and I mention them only to give thanks [CXIV] to God, by -whose Providence we have been delivered from all such as are venomous, -chiefly from the rattle snake. Neither men nor beasts belonging to our -caravan have suffered from them, though they were so numerous in -places that our wagoners killed as many as twelve in one day. - -INSECTS abound in these regions. The ant has often attracted the notice -of naturalists. Some have seemed to doubt whether the wheat stored up by -this little insect serves for winter provisions or for the construction -of its dwelling. No wheat grows in this country. Yet the ant stores up -small pebbles of the size and form of grains of wheat, which inclines me -to believe that they use both for the construction of their cells. In -either case the paternal Providence of God is manifest. They display as -much foresight in providing dwellings that are out of the reach of -humidity and inundations, as in laying up food for future wants. It is -probable, however, that here they find food of another kind, and this -might easily be ascertained. Fleas are not known in the mountains, but -there is another sort of vermin nearly allied to it, to which I have -alluded in one of my former letters. And what shall I say of musquitoes? -I have suffered so much from them, that I cannot leave them unnoticed. -In the heart of the prairie they do not trouble the traveller, if he -keep aloof from the shade, and walk in the burning sun. But at nightfall -they light on him, and hang on him till morning, like leeches sucking -his blood. There is no defence against their darts, but to hide under a -buffalo skin, or wrap oneself up in some stuff which they cannot pierce, -and run the risk of being smothered.--When green or rotten wood can be -procured, they may be driven away by smoke, but in such case the -traveller himself is smoked, and in spite of all he can do, his eyes are -filled with tears. As soon as the smoke ceases, they [CXV] return to the -charge till other wood is provided and thrown on the fire, so that the -traveller's sleep is frequently interrupted, which proves very annoying -after the fatigue of a troublesome journey. Another species of insects, -called brulots, are found by myriads in the desert, and are not less -troublesome than the musquito. They are so small that they are scarcely -perceptible, and light on any part of the body that is uncovered, -penetrating even into the eyes, ears and nostrils. To guard against -them, the traveller, even in the warmest weather, wears gloves, ties a -handkerchief over his forehead, neck and ears, and smokes a short pipe -or a cigar to drive them from his eyes and nostrils. The fire-fly is a -harmless insect. When they are seen in great numbers, darting their -phosphoric light through the darkness, it is a sure sign that rain is -at hand. The light which they emit is very brilliant, and appears as if -it proceeded from wandering meteors. It is a favorite amusement with the -Indians to catch these insects, and after rubbing the phosphoric matter -over their faces, to walk around the camp, for the purpose of -frightening children and exciting mirth. - -As our hunters were scarcely ever disappointed in finding game, we -have seldom had recourse to fishing; hence our acquaintance with the -finny race is rather limited.--On some occasions, when provisions were -becoming scarce, the line had to supply the place of the gun. The fish -which we generally caught were the mullet, two kinds of trout, and a -species of carps. Once, whilst we lay encamped on the banks of Snake -river, I caught more than a hundred of these carps in the space of an -hour. The anchovy, the sturgeon, and the salmon, abound in the rivers -of the Oregon Territory. There are six species of salmon.[214] They -come up the rivers towards the end of April, and [CXVI] after -spawning, never return; but the young ones go down to the sea in -September, and it is supposed that they re-enter the rivers the fourth -year after they have left them. - -QUADRUPEDS. The Beaver seems to have chosen this country for his own. -Every one knows how they work, and what use they make of their teeth and -tail. What we were told by the trappers is probably unknown to -many.--When they are about constructing a dam, they examine all the -trees on the bank, and choose the one that is most bent over the water -on the side where they want to erect their fort. If they find no tree of -this kind they repair to another place, or patiently wait till a violent -wind gives the requisite inclination to some of the trees. Some of the -Indian tribes believe that the beavers are a degraded race of human -beings, whose vices and crimes have induced the Great Spirit to punish -them by changing them into their present form; and they think, after the -lapse of a number of years, their punishment will cease, and they will -be restored to their original shape. They even believe that these -animals use a kind of language to communicate their thoughts to each -other, to consult, deliberate, pass sentence on delinquents, &c. The -Trappers assured us that such beavers as are unwilling to work, are -unanimously proscribed, and exiled from the Republic, and that they are -obliged to seek some abandoned hole, at a distance from the rest, where -they spend the winter in a state of starvation.[215] These are easily -caught, but their skin is far inferior to that of the more industrious -neighbors, whose foresight and perseverance have procured them abundant -provisions, and a shelter against the severity of the winter season. The -flesh of the beaver is fat and savory. The feet are deemed the most -dainty parts. The tail affords a substitute for butter. The skin is sold -for nine or ten dollars' [CXVII] worth of provisions or merchandise, the -value of which does not amount to a single silver dollar. For a gill of -whiskey, which has not cost the trader more than three or four cents, is -sometimes sold for three or four dollars, though the chief virtue which -it possesses is to kill the body and soul of the buyer. We need not -wonder then when we see that wholesale dealers in this poisonous article -realize large fortunes in a very short time, and that the retailers, of -whom some received as much as eight hundred dollars per annum, often -present a most miserable appearance before the year expires. The -Honorable Hudson Bay Company does not belong to this class of traders. -By them the sale of all sorts of liquors is strictly forbidden. - -The Otter is an inhabitant of the mountain rivers. His color is dark -brown or black. Like the beaver, he is incessantly pursued by the -hunters, and the number of both these animals is yearly diminished. -Among other amphibious animals we find two species of the frog. One does -not differ from the European, but the other offers scarcely any -resemblance. It has a tail and horns and is only found on the most arid -soil. By some of our travellers it was called the Salamander.[216] - -Opossums are common here. They are generally found near marshes and -ponds that abound in small crawfish, of which they are extremely fond. -To catch them he places himself on the bank, and lets his long -hairless tail hang down in the water. The crawfish are allured by the -bait, and as soon as they put their claws to it, the opossum throws -them up, seizes them sideways between his teeth, and carries them to -some distance from the water, where he greedily but cautiously devours -his prey. - -The Badger inhabits the whole extent of the desert; he is seldom seen, -as he retires to his hole at the least approach [CXVIII] of danger. -Some naturalists refer this animal to the genuine Ursus. Its size is -that of the Dormouse; its color silver grey; its paws are short, and -its strength prodigious. A Canadian having seized one as he entered -the hole, he required the assistance of another man to pull him out. - -The Prairie Dog, in shape, color and agility, more resembles the -squirrel than the animal from which it has taken its name. They live -together in separate lodges, to the number of several thousands. The -earth which they throw up to construct their lodges, forms a kind of -slope which prevents the rain from entering the holes. At the -approach of man, this little animal runs into its lodge, uttering a -piercing cry, which puts the whole tribe on their guard. After some -minutes, the boldest show a part of their heads, as if to spy the -enemy, and this is the moment which the hunter chooses to kill them. -The Indians informed us that they sometimes issue in a body, -apparently to hold a council, and that wisdom presides over their -deliberations. They admit to their dwellings the bird of Minerva, the -striped squirrel, and the rattlesnake, and it is impossible to -determine what is the cause of this wonderful sympathy. It is said too -that they live only on the dew of the grass root, a remark founded -upon the position of their village, which is always found where the -ground is waterless and barren. - -The Polecat or Memphitis Americana, is a beautifully speckled animal. -When pursued, it raises its tail, and discharges a large quantity of -fluid, which nature has intended for its defence. It repeats these -discharges in proportion as the pursuer comes near it. So strong is the -fœtid odor of this liquid that neither man nor beast can bear it. It -happened once that Rev. Father Van Quickenborne[217] [CXIX] saw two of -these cats. He took them for young cubs, and pleased with the discovery, -he alighted from his horse, and wished to catch them. He approached them -cautiously, and was just ready to put his large hat over one of them, -when all at once a discharge was made that covered him all over. It was -impossible to go near him--all around him was infected. His clothes -could no longer be used, and the poor man, though, rather late, resolved -never again to attempt to catch young bears! - -The Cabri (Antelope) resembles the deer in form and size, the antlers -are smaller and have but two branches; the color of the animal resembles -that of the stag; the eyes are large and piercing; and its gait in the -wilderness is a kind of elegant gallop. Sometimes the Antelope stops -short and rears his head to observe his pursuer; this is the most -favorable moment to kill him. When started or shot at and missed, he -darts forward with incredible swiftness, but curiosity induces him to -halt and look back. The hunter tries to amuse his curiosity, by holding -up and waving some bright colored object: the animal approaches, and -curiosity becomes the cause of his death. The flesh is wholesome, and -easily digested, but it is used only where deer and buffalo meat are -wanting. The Antelope hunt is a favorite sport with the Indians. They -choose a spot of ground from fifty to eighty feet square, and enclose it -with posts and boughs, leaving a small opening or entrance, two or three -feet wide. From this entrance they construct two wings or hedges, which -they extend for several miles.--After this they form a large semicircle, -and drive the Antelopes before them till they enter between the hedges, -where they press so hard upon them that they force them into the square -enclosure, in which they kill them with clubs. I have been told that the -number of Antelopes thus driven [CXX] into the enclosure, often amounts -to more than two hundred. The meat of the buffalo cow is the most -wholesome and the most common in the west. It may be called the _daily -bread_ of the traveller, for he never loses his relish for it.--It is -more easily procured than any other, and it is good throughout. Though -some prefer the tongue, others the hump, or some other favorite piece, -all the parts are excellent food. To preserve the meat it is cut in -slices, thin enough to be dried in the sun; sometimes a kind of a hash -is made of it, and this is mixed with the marrow taken from the largest -bones. This kind of mixture is called Bull or Cheese, and is generally -served up and eaten raw, but when boiled or baked it is of more easy -digestion, and has a more savory taste to a civilized palate. The form -and size of the buffalo are sufficiently known. It is a gregarious -animal, and is seldom seen alone. Several hundreds herd together, the -males on one side, the females on the other, except at a certain season -of the year. In the month of June we saw an immense herd of them on the -Platte.--The chase of this animal is very interesting. The hunters are -all mounted; at the signal given, they fall upon the herd, which is soon -dispersed; each one chooses his own animal, for he who slays the first -is looked upon as the king of the chase--his aim must be sure and -mortal, for the animal, when wounded, becomes furious, turns upon his -hunter and pursues him in his turn. We once witnessed a scene of this -kind. A young American had the imprudence to swim over a river and -pursue a wounded buffalo with no other weapon but his knife. The animal -turned back upon him, and had it not been for the young Englishman, whom -I have already mentioned, his imprudence would have cost him his life. -The greatest feat of a hunter is to drive the wounded animal to any -place he thinks proper. We had a [CXXI] hunter named John Gray,[218] -reputed one of the best marksmen of the mountains; he had frequently -given proofs of extraordinary courage and dexterity, especially when on -one occasion he dared to attack five bears at once. Wishing to give us -another sample of his valor, he drove an enormous buffalo he had -wounded, into the midst of the caravan. The animal had stood about fifty -shots, and been pierced by more than twenty balls; three times he had -fallen, but fury increasing his strength, he had risen, after each fall, -and with his horns threatened all who dared to approach him. At last the -hunter took a decisive aim, and the buffalo fell to rise no more. - -The small chase is carried on without horses. An experienced hunter, -though on foot, may attack a whole herd of buffalos; but he must be -skilful and cautious. He must approach them against the wind, for fear -of starting the game, for so acute is the scent of the buffalo that he -smells his enemy at a very considerable distance. Next, he must approach -them as much as possible without being seen or suspected. If he cannot -avoid being seen, he draws a skin over his head, or a kind of hood, -surmounted by a pair of horns, and thus deceives the herd. When within -gun shot, he must hide himself behind a bank or any other object. There -he waits till he can take sure aim. The report of the gun, and the noise -made by the fall of the wounded buffalo, astound, but do not drive away -the rest. In the meantime, the hunter re-loads his gun, and shoots -again, repeating the manœuvre, till five or six, and sometime more -buffalos have fallen, before he finds it necessary to abandon his place -of concealment.--The Indians say that the buffalos live together as the -bees, under the direction of a queen, and that when the queen is -wounded, all the others surround and deplore her. [CXXII] If this were -the case, the hunter who had the good fortune to kill the queen, would -have fine sport in despatching the rest. After death, the animal is -dressed, that is, he is stripped of his robe, quartered and divided; -the best pieces are chosen and carried off by the hunter, who, when the -chase has been successful, is sometimes satisfied with the tongue alone. -The rest is left for the wolves. These voracious prowlers soon come to -the banquet, except when the scene of slaughter is near the camp. In -such cases they remain at bay till night, when all is still. Then they -come to the charge, and set up such howling that they frighten the -inexperienced traveller. But their yells and howlings, however -frightful, have little or no effect upon those whose ears have become -accustomed to such music. These sleep with as little concern as if there -were not a wolf in the country. - -Of wolves we have seen four varieties, the grey, the white, the black, -and the bluish. The grey seems to be the most common, as they are the -most frequently seen.--The black wolves are large and ferocious -animals. They sometimes mingle with a herd of buffalos, and at first -appear quite harmless, but when they find a young calf strayed from -its dam, or an old cow on the brink of a precipice, they are sure to -attack and kill the former, and to harass the latter till they succeed -in pushing it down the precipice. The wolves are very numerous in -these regions--the plains are full of holes, which are generally deep, -and into which they retire when hunger does not compel them to prowl -about, or when they are pursued by the huntsman. There is a small -sized wolf, called the medicine wolf, regarded by the Indians as a -sort of Manitou. They watch its yelpings during the night, and the -superstitious conjurers pretend to understand and [CXXIII] interpret -them. According to the loudness, frequency, and other modifications of -these yelpings, they interpret that either friends or foes approach -the camp, &c., and if it happens that on some other occasion they -conjecture right, the prediction is never forgotten, and the -conjurers take care to mention it on every emergency. - -There are also four kinds of bears, distinguished by the colors: -white, black, brown and grey. The white and grey bears are what the -lion is in Asia, the kings of the mountains: they are scarcely -inferior to the lion in form and courage. I have sometimes joined in -the chase of this animal, but I was in good company--safe from -danger.--Four Indian hunters ran around the bear and stunned him with -their cries--they soon despatched him. In less than a quarter of an -hour after this, another fell beneath their blows. This chase is -perhaps the most dangerous; for the bear, when wounded, becomes -furious, and unless he be disabled, as was the case in the two -instances mentioned, he attacks and not unfrequently kills his -pursuers. Messrs. Lewis and Clarke, in their expedition to the sources -of the Missouri, adduce a striking proof of the physical strength of -this animal, which shows that he is a most formidable enemy. One -evening, the men who were in the hindmost canoe, discovered a bear, -crouched in the prairie, at a distance of about three hundred yards -from the river. Six of them, all skilful hunters, left the canoe, and -advanced to attack him. Protected by a little eminence, they -approached without being perceived, till they were but forty steps -from the animal. Four of the men discharged their guns, and each one -lodged a ball in his body--two of the balls had pierced the lungs. The -bear, frantic with rage, starts up and rushes upon his enemies, with -wide extended jaws. As he approached, the two hunters who had kept -[CXXIV] their fire, inflicted two wounds on him; one of the balls -broke his shoulder, which for a few moments retarded his progress, but -before they could re-load their guns, he was so close upon them that -they had to run with the greatest speed to the river. Here he was at -the point of seizing them--two of the men threw themselves into the -canoe, the four others scattered and hid themselves among the willows, -where they loaded and fired with the greatest expedition. They wounded -him several times, which only served to increase his fury; at last he -pursued two of them so closely, that they were compelled to provide -for their safety by leaping into the river from a perpendicular bank -nearly twenty feet high. The bear followed them, and was but a few -feet from them, when one of the hunters who had come from his lurking -place, sent a ball through his head and killed him. They dragged him -to the shore, and there ascertained that not less than eight balls -passed through his body.[219] - -I remain, Rev. and dear Father Provincial, - - Yours, &c. - P. J. DE SMET, S.J. - -FOOTNOTES: - -[206] Beaverhead River is the main branch of the Jefferson, one of the -three great sources of the Missouri. It runs through a mountainous -valley in a county of the same name, in which is located Dillon, the -chief town of southwestern Montana. The valley is named for a rocky -point that bears a resemblance to the head of a beaver. Lewis and -Clark were the first white men known to have visited this locality. -The cliff they called "Beaverhead" is now known as "Point of Rocks," -about eighteen miles north of Dillon. See _Original Journals of the -Lewis and Clark Expedition_, ii, p. 321.--ED. - -[207] The principal chief of the Flathead tribe was an hereditary -officer. This chief, whose Indian name was Tjolzhitsay, the equivalent -of Big or Long Face, was the first of the nation to be baptized in -1840. For a further account of his life see letter ix, _post_.--ED. - -[208] Ludovico Antonio Muratori (1672-1750) was by many accounted the -foremost scholar and antiquarian of his time. Born near Modena, he was -appointed keeper of public archives at that place, and seldom left the -city. His chief work was in the classics, publishing _Anecdota Græca_ -and _Anecdota Latina_, valuable collections of hitherto unedited -fragments. Through a fellow-townsman who went as missionary to the -Jesuit community in Paraguay, Father Muratori became interested in that -land and wrote in Italian _Il Christianesimo Felice nelle Missione dei -Padri della Compagnia di Jesu nel Paraguai_ (Venice, 1743). He states in -the preface that his information was derived from the memoirs of the -Jesuits, and from conversations and correspondence with those who had -lived in Paraguay. This work was translated into several languages, the -English version having been published at London in 1759. Muratori -represents the Jesuit community of converted Indians as a veritable -earthly paradise. De Smet's reference to this work shows his ambition to -establish a Paraguayan régime in the continent of America.--ED. - -[209] With his party, De Smet advanced up the Snake or Lewis River to -its forks, of which Henry's is the most northern, rising in Henry's -Lake (see _ante_, p. 175, note 45). This arid valley, of which the -missionary speaks, has been proved fertile under the influence of -irrigation. Several millions of dollars have in recent years been -invested in irrigation canals, along the valley of the upper Lewis, -through which runs a spur of the Oregon Short Line Railway.--ED. - -[210] For the Three Buttes and Three Tetons see Townsend's -_Narrative_, in our volume xxi, p. 209, note 49.--ED. - -[211] The travellers passed by Beaverhead Valley, where the main body -of the Flathead met them, by the well-known trace along the Big Hole -and across the divide into Deer Lodge Valley--the route now followed -substantially by the Oregon Short Line Railway. "Father's Defile" must -have been near the Deer Lodge divide.--ED. - -[212] Deer Lodge takes its name from a spring around which many -white-tailed deer were wont to assemble. The mineral deposit had piled -in a conical heap, forming the shape of an Indian lodge. These are now -called Warm Springs, and used for medicinal purposes. The name Deer -Lodge is now applied to the river and its valley, to a Montana county, -and to the seat of that county. The valley is fertile. In its lower -course the river called Hell Gate united with Bitterroot (or St. -Mary's) at Missoula.--ED. - -[213] For a description of this plant see our volume xv, pp. 232, 233. -It is allied to the _Yucca filamentosa_ of the Southern states, whence -its name of "Adam's needle." It is more commonly called silk or bear -grass, and its filaments were used for weaving by the Indians of the -Columbia, whence it became an article of intertribal trade. See -_Original Journals of the Lewis and Clark Expedition_, index.--ED. - -[214] For the scientific names of these species, see _ibid._, -index.--ED. - -[215] Stories of this sort are numerous; the discarded beaver is, -however, the victim of disease, being attacked by a parasite. Consult -Martin, _Castorologia, or the Canadian Beaver_ (London and Montreal, -1892), pp. 159, 168, 233.--ED. - -[216] See our volume xix, p. 328, note 138 (Gregg).--ED. - -[217] Father Charles Felix Van Quickenborne was a Belgian, born in Ghent -in 1788. Coming to America he was made master of novices at Whitemarsh, -and in 1823 removed to Florissant, Missouri, being made superior of his -order in the West. He was zealous for Indian missions, in 1827-28 -visiting in person the Osage; and in 1836 founding the Kickapoo mission. -He died at Portage des Sioux, August 17, 1836, having revived the -missions of his order to the North American aborigines.--ED. - -[218] John Gray was an old mountaineer, probably acting on this -journey as guide to the Englishman who was out for big game. See an -account of a trapper of this name in Alexander Ross, _Fur Hunters of -the Far West_ (London, 1855), ii, chapter x.--ED. - -[219] It is now accepted that there are but two species of bears in -the United States; the black (_Ursus americanus_), of which the -cinnamon bear is a variety, and the grizzly (_Ursus horribilis_), -known as the white, grey, and brown bear. The episode here related by -De Smet may be found in _Original Journals of the Lewis and Clark -Expedition_, ii, pp. 33, 34.--ED. - - - - - LETTER VIII - - - Hell Gate,[220] 21st Sept. 1841. - - Rev. and Dear Father Provincial: - -It is on a journey through the desert that we see how attentive -Providence is to the wants of man. I repeat with pleasure this remark -of my young Protestant friend, because the truth of it appears through -the narrative which I have commenced, and will appear still more -evidently in what is to follow. Were I to speak of rivers, the account -would be long and tedious, for in five days we crossed as many as -eighteen, and crossed one of them five times in the space of a few -hours. I shall only mention the most dangerous among them. The first, -which we found it very difficult to cross, was the South Fork of the -Platte. But as we had been long apprised of the difficulty, we took -our precautions before hand, and some of our Canadians had explored it -with so much care, that we forded it, not without great difficulty, -but without any serious accident. The greatest distress was felt by -the dogs of the caravan. Left on the bank, when all had crossed, -nothing but fidelity towards their masters could have induced them to -swim over a river but little less than a mile wide, and having so -rapid a current that it would have carried away wagons and carts, had -they not been supported on all sides, while the mules exerted all -their strength to pull them onward. The poor dogs did not attempt to -cross till they found that there was no medium left between -encountering the danger and [CXXVI] losing their masters. The passage -over these rivers is generally effected by means of a bull boat, the -name given to a kind of boat, constructed on the spot with buffalo -hides. They are indispensable when the current is impetuous, and no -ford can be found. Thanks to our Canadians, we wanted them neither on -this nor any other occasion.[221] - -[Illustration: Fording the river Platte] - -The second difficult passage was over the North Fork, which is less -wide, but deeper and more rapid than the Southern. We had crossed the -latter in carts. Having mustered a little more courage, we determined -to cross the North Fork on horseback. We were induced to do so, on -seeing our hunter drive before him a horse on which his wife was -mounted, whilst at the same time he was pulling a colt that carried a -little girl but one year old. To hold back under such circumstances -would have been a disgrace for Indian Missionaries. We therefore -resolved to go forward. It is said that we were observed to grow pale, -and I am inclined to believe we did; yet, after our horses had for -some time battled against the current, we reached the opposite shore -in safety, though our clothes were dripping wet. Here we witnessed a -scene, which, had it been less serious, might have excited laughter. -The largest wagon was carried off by the force of the current, in -spite of all the efforts, shouts and cries of the men, who did all -they could to keep themselves from being drowned. Another wagon was -literally turned over. One of the mules showed only his four feet on -the surface of the water, and the others went adrift entangled in the -gears. On one side appeared the American captain, with extended arms, -crying for help. On the other, a young German traveller was seen -diving with his beast, and soon after both appearing above water at a -distance from each other. Here a horse reached the shore without a -rider; further on, two [CXXVII] riders appeared on the same horse; -finally, the good brother Joseph dancing up and down with his horse, -and Father Mengarini clinging to the neck of his, and looking as if he -formed an indivisible part of the animal. After all our difficulties, -we found that only one of the mules was drowned. As the mule belonged -to a man who had been the foremost in endeavoring to save both men and -horses, the members of the caravan agreed to make him a present of a -horse, as a reward for his services. We offered thanks to God for our -escape from danger. I mentioned before that great dangers awaited us -on Snake river. This stream being much less deep and wide than the -other two, and having such limpid waters that the bottom can every -where be seen, could only be dangerous to incautious persons. It -sufficed to keep our eyes open, for any obstacle could easily be -distinguished and avoided. But whether it were owing to want of -thought or attention, or to the stubborn disposition of the team, -Brother Charles Huet found himself all at once on the border of a deep -precipice, too far advanced to return. Down went mules, driver and -vehicle, and so deep was the place, that there scarcely appeared any -chance to save them. Our hunter, at the risk of his life, threw -himself into the river, to dive after the poor brother, whom he had to -pull out of the carriage. All the Flat Heads who were with us, tried -to save the vehicle, the mules and the baggage. The baggage, with the -exception of a few articles, was saved; the carriage was raised by the -united efforts of all the Indians, and set afloat; but after this -operation it was held by but one of them, he found that his strength -was inadequate to the task, and crying that he was being drowned, let -go his hold. The hunter plunged in after him, and was himself at the -point of losing his life, on account of the efforts [CXXVIII] which -the Indian made to save his own. Finally, after prodigies of valor, -exhibited by all the Flat Heads, men, women and children, who all -strove to give us a proof of their attachment, we lost what we -considered the most safe, the team of the carriage. The gears had been -cut to enable the mules to reach the shore, but it is said that these -animals always perish when once they have had their ears under water. -Thus we lost our three finest mules. This loss was to us very -considerable, and would have been irreparable, had it not been for the -kindness of Captain Ermatinger. Whilst the people of the caravan were -drying our baggage, I returned to the Fort, where the generous Captain -repaired our loss for a sum truly inconsiderable, when compared -with what must be paid on such occasions to those who wish to avail -themselves of the misfortunes of others. We had escaped the danger, -and were besides taught a very useful lesson, for it was remarked that -it was the first day since we began our journey, on which, by reason -of the bustle occasioned by our departure from the Fort, we had -omitted to say the prayers of the itinerary. - -[Illustration: Sheyenne Warriors] - -We had dangers of another description to encounter, from which we were -also delivered by the aid of God's grace. Once as we travelled along -the banks of the Platte, several members of the caravan separated from -the main body, contrary to the expressed orders of the Captain, who, -together with Father Point and myself, had started a little ahead to -look out for a place of encampment. We succeeded in finding a proper -site, and we had already unsaddled our horses, when all at once we -heard the alarm cry: _the Indians! the Indians!_ And in fact, a body -of Indians, appearing much larger than it really was, was seen in the -distance, first assembling together, and then coming full [CXXIX] -gallop towards our camp. In the mean time a young American, unhorsed -and unarmed, makes his appearance, complaining of the loss he had -sustained, and indignant at the blows he had received. He seizes the -loaded rifle of one of his friends, and rushes forward to take signal -vengeance on the offender. The whole camp is roused; the American -youth is determined to fight; the Colonel orders the wagons to be -drawn up in double file, and places between them whatever may be -exposed to plunder. All preparations are made for a regular defence. -On the other hand, the Indian squadron, much increased, advances and -presents a formidable front. They manœuvre as if they intend to hem in -our phalanx, but at sight of our firm position, and of the assurance -of the Captain who advanced towards them, they checked their march, -finally halted, and came to a parley, of which the result was that -they should return to the American whatever they had taken from him, -but that the blows which he had received should not be returned. After -this, both parties united in smoking the calumet. This band consisted -of 80 Sheyenne warriors, armed for battle. The Sheyennes are looked -upon as the bravest Indians in the prairie. They followed our camp for -two or three days. As the chiefs were admitted to our meals, both -parties separated with mutual satisfaction.[222] - -On another occasion we were in company with the vanguard of the Flat -Heads, and had penetrated into an impassible defile between the -mountains, so that after having travelled the whole day, we were -forced to retrace our steps. At night the rumor was spread that a -party of Banac Indians lay encamped in the neighborhood.[223] The -Banacs had this very year killed several white men; but it soon -appeared that they were more frightened than ourselves, for before day -break they had removed from the place. - -[CXXX] Without being aware of it, we had escaped a much greater danger -on the banks of Green River. We did not know the particulars of this -danger till after we had arrived at Fort Hall. There we heard that -almost immediately after our separation from the travellers who were -on their way to California, and with whom we had till then lived as -brothers, they divided themselves into two bands, and each band again -subdivided into two parties, one to attend to the chase, the other to -guard the horses. The hunter's camp was guarded only by five or six -men and some women, who had also to keep watch over the horses and -baggage of the others. A booty so rich and so much exposed could not -but tempt the Indians who roamed in the neighborhood, and waited, as -is their custom, till a seasonable opportunity should offer to -commence the attack. When least expected, they fell first upon the -horses, and then upon the tents, and though the guardians made a -courageous defence, and sold their lives dearly, yet they burned and -pillaged the camp, taking away whatever might be serviceable to them; -thus giving a terrible lesson to such as expose themselves to lose -all, by not remaining united to withstand the common enemy.[224] - -But a few days after we had received this sad intelligence we -ourselves were much alarmed. We apprehended lest we should have to -defend our lives against a large body of Black Feet Indians, whose -warriors continually infest the country through which we were then -travelling. It was reported that they were behind the mountain, and -soon [CXXXI] after that they were in sight. But our brave Indians, -glowing with the desire to introduce us to their tribe, were -undaunted, and would have attacked them, had they been a hundred times -more numerous. Pilchimo, brandishing his musket in the air, started -off with the greatest rapidity, and was followed by three or four -others. They crossed the mountain and disappeared, and the whole camp -made ready to repel the assailants. The horses were hitched and the -men under arms, when we saw our brave Indians return over the -mountain, followed by a dozen others. The latter were Banacs, who had -united rather with a mind to fly than to attack us. Among them was a -chief, who showed the most favorable dispositions. I had a long -conference with him on the subject of religion, and he promised that -he would use all his endeavors to engage his men to adopt religious -sentiments. Both he and his retinue left us the day after the arrival -of the Flat Heads, who came to wish us joy for the happy issue of our -long journey. We here remarked how the power of reason acts upon the -heart of the savage. The Banac chief was brother to an Indian of the -tribe who had been killed by one of the Flat Head chiefs present on -this occasion. They saluted each other in our presence and separated -as truly Christian warriors would have done, who show enmity to each -other only on the field of battle. Yet as the Flat Heads had more than -once, been basely betrayed by the Banacs, the former did not offer to -smoke the calumet. I hope that we shall have no difficulty to bring on -a reconciliation. The Flat Heads will undoubtedly follow the advice we -shall give them, and I feel confident that the Banacs will be -satisfied with the conditions. - - I have the honor to be - Rev. and dear Father Provincial, - Your devoted servant and son, - P. J. DE SMET, S.J. - -FOOTNOTES: - -[220] Hell Gate is the defile just east of Missoula, Montana, on a -river of that name. It is said to have acquired its name (French, -_porte d'enfer_) because the Blackfeet so often lay in wait along its -cliffs, and to pass through was as dangerous as entering hell. In the -early days of the territory there was a settlement known as Hell Gate, -about five miles up the river, from its mouth.--ED. - -[221] For a further description of these bull-boats see our volume -xxiii, p. 279, note 246.--ED. - -[222] Compare Bidwell's account in _Century Magazine_, xix, p. 116. -According to his report, it was a war party of but forty well-mounted -Cheyenne. The young American had been unduly excited by their -appearance, and was thereafter known as Cheyenne Dawson. His baptismal -name was James. Reaching California with the Bidwell party, he was -later drowned in Columbia River.--ED. - -[223] For the Bannock Indians see Townsend's _Narrative_, in our -volume xxi, p. 192, note 41.--ED. - -[224] The massacre of these travellers gave rise to several vague -reports. As we had started together it was supposed by many that we -had not yet separated when this unfortunate accident took place. Hence -it was circulated in the United States, and even in some parts of -Europe, that the Catholic Missionaries had all been killed by the -Indians.--DE SMET. - - - - - LETTER IX - - - St. Mary's, 18th October, 1841. - - Rev. and Dear Father: - -After a journey of four months and a half on horseback through the -desert, and in spite of our actual want of bread, wine, sugar, fruit, -and all such things as are called the conveniences of life, we find -our strength and courage increased, and are better prepared than ever -to work at the conversion of the souls that Providence entrusts to our -care. Next to the Author of all good things, we returned thanks to her -whom the church reveres as the Mother of her Divine Spouse, since it -has pleased the Divine goodness to send us the greatest consolations -on several days consecrated to her honor. On the feast of her glorious -Assumption we met the vanguard of our dear neophytes. On the Sunday -within the Octave, we, for the first time since my return, celebrated -the Holy Mysteries among them. On the following Sunday our good -Indians placed themselves and their children under the Immaculate -Heart of Mary, of which we then celebrated the feast. This act of -devotion was renewed by the great chief in the name of his whole -tribe, on the feast of her Holy Name. On the 24th of September, the -feast of our Lady of Mercy, we arrived at the river called Bitter -Root, on the banks of which we have chosen the site for our principal -missionary station.[225] On the first Sunday of October, feast of the -Rosary, we took possession of the promised land, by planting a cross -on the spot which [CXXXIII] we had chosen for our first residence. -What motives of encouragement does not the Gospel of the present -Sunday add to all these mentioned before. To-day too we celebrate the -Divine Maternity, and what may we not expect from the Virgin Mother -who brought forth her Son for the salvation of the world. On the feast -of her Patronage we shall offer by her mediation to her Divine Son, -twenty-five young Indians, who are to be baptized on that day. So many -favors have induced us unanimously to proclaim Mary the protectress of -our mission, and give her name to our new residence.[226] - -These remarks may appear silly to such as attribute every thing to -chance or necessity, but to such as believe in the wise dispensations -of the Providence of God, by which all things are governed and -directed, all these circumstances, together with the wonderful manner -in which we have been called, sent and led to this new mission; and -still more the good dispositions manifested by the Indians, will -appear very proper motives to inspire us with fresh courage, and with -the hope of establishing here, on a small scale, the order and -regularity which once distinguished our missions in Paraguay. This -hope is not founded on imagination, for whilst I am writing these -lines, I hear the joyful voices of the carpenters, re-echoing to the -blows on the smith's anvil, and I see them engaged in raising the -_house of prayer_. Besides, three Indians, belonging to the tribe -called Pointed Hearts,[227] having been informed of our arrival among -the Flat Heads, have just come to entreat us to have pity on them. -"Father," said one of them to me, "we are truly deserving your pity. -We wish to serve the Great Spirit, but we know not how. We want some -one to teach us. For this reason we make application to you." O had -some of my brethren, now so far distant from us, been present here -last Sunday, when towards night we raised the [CXXXIV] august sign of -salvation, the standard of the cross, in this small but zealous tribe; -how their hearts would have been moved on seeing the pious joy of -these children of the forest! What sentiments of faith and love did -they exhibit on this occasion, when headed by their chief, they came -to kiss the foot of the cross, and then prostrate on their knees, made -a sacred promise, rather to suffer death a thousand times, than to -forsake the religion of Jesus Christ! Who knows how many of this -chosen band may be destined to become apostles and martyrs of our holy -religion! Were we more numerous, I feel confident that many other -tribes would become members of the kingdom of God; perhaps more than -two hundred thousand might be converted to Christ.[228] The Flat Heads -and the Pointed Hearts, it is true are not numerous tribes, but they -are surrounded by many others who evince the best dispositions. The -Ponderas or Pends-d'oreilles are very numerous, and live at a distance -of four or five days journey from our present establishment. The -chief who governed them last year and who has been baptized and called -Peter, is a true apostle.[229] In my first visit to them I baptized -two hundred and fifty of their children. Many other tribes have the -same origin, and though differing in name, their languages are nearly -allied. Next to these are found the Spokans,[230] who would soon -follow the example of the neighboring tribes; the Pierced Noses, who -are disgusted at the conduct of the Protestant ministers that have -settled among them; the Snakes, the Crows and the Banacs whose chief -we have seen. Last year I visited the Sheyennes, whom I twice met on -the banks of the Platte; the numerous nation of the Scioux, and the -three allied tribes called Mandans, Arickarees and Minatarees, who all -have given me so many proofs of respect and friendship; the Omahas, -with whom I have had so many conferences on [CXXXV] the subject of -religion, and many others who seem inclined to embrace the truth. - -The Black Feet are the only Indians of whose salvation we would have -reason to despair, if the ways of God were the same as those of man, -for they are murderers, thieves, traitors, and all that is wicked. But -were not the Chiquitos, the Chiriquans,[231] the Hurons, and the -Iroquois equally wicked before their conversion, which required much -time and great help from above? And is it not to the last, that, under -God, the Flat Heads owe their desire of becoming members of his -church, and the first germs of the copious fruit that has been -produced among them? What is more, the Black Feet are not hostile to -Black Gowns. We have been assured by other Indians that we would have -nothing to fear, if we presented ourselves amongst them as ministers -of religion. When last year I fell into the hands of one of their -divisions, and it was ascertained that I was an interpreter of the -Great Spirit, they carried me in triumph on a buffalo robe to their -village, and invited me to a banquet, at which all the great men of -the tribe assisted. It was on this occasion, that, whilst I said -grace, I was astonished to see that they struck the earth with one -hand and raised the other towards heaven, to signify that the earth -produces nothing but evil, whilst all that is good comes from above. -From all this you will easily conclude that the harvest is great, -whilst the laborers are few. - -It is the opinion of the Missionaries who accompany me, and of the -travellers I have seen in the Far West, in short, of all those who -have become acquainted with the Flat Heads, that they are -characterised by the greatest simplicity, docility and uprightness. -Yet, to the simplicity of children is joined the courage of heroes. -They never begin the attack, but wo to such as provoke them or treat -[CXXXVI] them unjustly. A handful of their warriors will not shrink -from an enemy twenty times more numerous than they; they will stand -and repel the assault, and at last put them to flight, and make them -repent their rashness. Not long before my first arrival among them, -seventy men of the tribe, finding themselves forced to come to an -engagement with a thousand Black Feet warriors, determined to sustain -the attack, and rather to die than retreat. Before the engagement they -prostrated themselves and addressed such prayers as they had learned -to the Great Spirit. They rose full of courage, sustained the first -shock, and soon rendered the victory doubtful. The fight, with -several interruptions, was continued five successive days, till at -last the Black Feet, astounded at the boldness of their antagonists, -were panic struck, and retreated from the scene of action, leaving -many killed and wounded on the field of battle, whilst not one warrior -of the Flat Heads was killed. But one died of the wounds he had -received, and his death happened several months after the engagement, -on the day succeeding his baptism--(though the point of an arrow had -pierced his skull.) It was on the same occasion that Pilchimo, whom I -have already mentioned, gave remarkable proofs of valor and attachment -to his fellow warriors. All the horses were on the point of falling -into the enemy's hand. Pilchimo was on foot. Not far off was a squaw -on horseback; to see the danger, to take the squaw from her horse and -mount it himself, to gallop to the other horses, and bring them -together, and drive them into the camp, was the affair of a few -minutes. Another warrior, named Sechelmeld, saw a Black Foot separated -from his company, and armed with a musket.[232] The Black Foot, taking -the warrior for one of his own tribe, asked the Flat Head to let him -mount behind him. The latter wishing to [CXXXVII] make himself master -of the musket, agreed to the proposal. They advance on the plain, till -Sechelmeld seeing that the place favored his design, seizes his fellow -rider's weapon, exclaiming; "Black Foot! I am a Flat Head, let go your -musket." He wrests it from his hands, despatches him, remounts the -horse, and gallops off in pursuit of the enemy. - -The following feat equally deserves to be recorded: A Black Foot warrior -was taken and wounded whilst in the act of stealing a horse. The night -was dark and the wound had rendered him furious. He held his loaded gun, -and threatened death to any one that should approach him. Peter, one of -the chiefs already mentioned, though diminutive in size, and far -advanced in years, felt his courage revived; he runs up to the enemy, -and with one blow fells him to the ground. This done he throws himself -on his knees, and raising his eyes towards heaven, he is reported to -have said: "Great Spirit! thou knowest that I did not kill this Black -Foot from a desire of revenge, but because I was forced to it; be -merciful to him in the other world. I forgive him from the bottom of my -heart all the evils which he has wished to inflict upon us, and to prove -the sincerity of my words I will cover him with my garments." This Peter -was baptized last year, and became the apostle of his tribe. Even before -baptism, his simplicity and sincerity prompted him to give this -testimony of himself: "If ever I have done evil it was through -ignorance, for I have always done what I considered good." It would be -tedious to give an account of his zealous endeavors. Every morning, at -an early hour, he rides through the whole village, stops at every hut, -speaks a few words of encouragement and reproof, as circumstances -require, and exhorts all to be faithful in the performance of their -religious and social duties. - -[CXXXVIII] I have spoken of the simplicity and the courage of the Flat -Heads; I shall make some other remarks concerning their character. They -little resemble the majority of the Indians, who are, generally -speaking, uncouth, importunate, improvident, insolent, stubborn and -cruel.--The Flat Heads are disinterested, generous, devoted to their -brethren and friends; irreproachable, and even exemplary, as regards -probity and morality. Among them, dissensions, quarrels, injuries and -enmities are unknown. During my stay in the tribe last year, I have -never remarked any thing that was contrary to modesty and decorum in -the manners and conversation of the men and women. It is true that the -children, whilst very young, are entirely without covering, but this is -a general custom among the Indians, and seems to have no bad effect upon -them; we are determined, however, to abolish this custom as soon as we -shall be able to do it. With respect to religion, the Flat Heads are -distinguished by the firmness of their faith, and the ardor of their -zeal. Not a vestige of their former superstitions can be discovered. -Their confidence in us is unlimited. They believe without any difficulty -the most profound mysteries of our holy religion, as soon as they are -proposed to them, and they do not even suspect that we might be -deceived, or even could wish to deceive them. I have already mentioned -what exertions they have made to obtain Black-gowns for their tribe; the -journeys, undertakings, the dangers incurred, the misfortunes suffered -to attain their object. Their conduct during my absence from them has -been truly regular and edifying. They attend divine service with the -greatest punctuality, and pay the most serious attention to the -explanation of the Catechism. What modesty and fervent piety do they not -exhibit in [CXXXIX] their prayers, and with what humble simplicity they -speak of their former blindness, and of such things as tend to reflect -honor upon their present conduct. On this last subject their simplicity -is truly admirable: "Father," some will say, with down cast eyes, "what -I tell you now I have never mentioned to any one, nor shall I ever -mention it to others; and if I speak of it to you, it is because you -wish and have a right to know it." - -The chiefs, who might be more properly called the fathers of the -tribe, having only to express their will, and are obeyed, are always -listened to, and are not less remarkable for their docility in our -regard than for the ascendancy they possess over their people. The -most influential among them, surnamed "The Little Chief," from the -smallness of his stature, whether considered as a Christian or a -warrior, might stand a comparison with the most renowned character of -ancient chivalry.[233] On one occasion, he sustained the assaults of a -whole village, which, contrary to all justice, attacked his people. On -another occasion, when the Banacs had been guilty of the blackest -treason, he marched against them with a party of warriors not -one-tenth the number of their aggressors. But, under such a leader, -his little band believed themselves invincible, and invoking the -protection of heaven, rushed upon the enemy, and took signal vengeance -of the traitors, killing nine of their number. More would have been -killed, had not the voice of Little Chief arrested them in the very -heat of the pursuit, announcing that it was the Sabbath, and the hour -of prayer. Upon this signal, they gave over the pursuit, and returned -to their camp. Arrived there, they immediately, without thinking of -dressing their wounds, fell upon their knees in the dust, to render to -the Lord of Hosts the honor of the victory. Little Chief had received -a ball [CXL] through the right hand, which had entirely deprived him -of its use; but seeing two of his comrades more severely wounded than -himself, he with his other hand rendered them every succor in his -power, remaining the whole night in attendance upon them. On several -other occasions, he acted with equal courage, prudence and humanity, -so that his reputation became widely spread. The Nez-perces, a nation -far more numerous than the Flat Heads, came to offer him the dignity -of being their Great Chief. He might have accepted it without -detriment to the rights of any one, as every Indian is free to leave -his chief, and place himself under any other head he may think -proper, and, of course, to accept any higher grade that may be offered -to him. But Little Chief, content with the post assigned him by -Providence, refused the offer, however honorable to him, with this -simple remark, "By the will of the Great Master of life I was born -among the Flat Heads, and if such be His will, among the Flat Heads I -am determined to die;"--a patriotic feeling, highly honorable to him. -As a warrior, still more honorable to his character are the mildness -and humility manifested by him. He said to me, once: "Till we came to -know the true God, alas, how blinded were we! We prayed, it is -true--but to whom did we address our prayers? In truth, I know not how -the Great Spirit could have borne with us so long." At present his -zeal is most exemplary; not content with being the foremost in all the -offices at chapel, he is always the first and last at the family -prayers, and even before break of day he is heard singing the praises -of his Maker. His characteristic trait is mildness; and yet he can -assume due firmness, not to say severity of manner, when he sees it -necessary to exercise more rigorous discipline. Some days before our -arrival, one of the young [CXLI] women had absented herself from -prayer, without a sufficient reason. He sent for her, and after -reading her a lecture before all the household, enforced his motives -for greater attention in future, by a smart application of the cane. -And how did the young offender receive the correction? With the most -humble and praiseworthy submission. - -The Flat Heads are fond of praying. After the regular evening prayer, -they will assemble in their tents to pray or sing canticles. These -pious exercises will frequently be prolonged till a late hour; and if -any wake during the night, they begin to pray. Before making his -prayer, the good old Simeon gets up and rakes out the live coals upon -his hearth, and when his prayer is done, which is always preceded and -followed by the sign of the cross, he smokes his calumet and then -turns in again. This he will do three or four times during the night. -There was a time, also, when these more watchful spirits of the -household, not content with praying themselves, would awaken the -sleepers, anxious to make them partakers of the good work.--These -pious excesses had sprung from a little piece of advice I had given -them on my first visit, that "on waking at night it was commendable to -raise the heart to God." It has since been explained to them how they -are to understand the advice. This night, between the 25th and 26th, -the prayers and canticles have not ceased. Yesterday, a young woman -having died who had received baptism four days previously, we -recommended them to pray for the repose of her soul. Her remains were -deposited at the foot of the Calvary, erected in the midst of the -camp. On the cross upon her grave might confidently be inscribed the -words: _In spem Resurrectionis_--In hope of a glorious Resurrection. -We shall shortly have to celebrate the commemoration [CXLII] of the -faithful departed; this will afford us an opportunity of establishing -the very Christian and standing custom of praying for the dead in -their place of interment. - -On Sundays, the exercises of devotion are longer and more numerous, -and yet they are never fatigued with the pious duty. They feel that -the happiness of the little and of the humble is to speak with their -Heavenly Father, and that no house presents so many attractions as the -house of the Lord. Indeed, so religiously is the Sunday observed here, -that on this day of rest, even before our coming, the most timorous -deer might wander unmolested in the midst of the tribe, even though -they were reduced by want of provisions to the most rigorous fast. -For, in the eyes of this people, to use the bow and arrow on this -day, would not have appeared less culpable than did the gathering of -wood to the scrupulous fidelity of the people of God.--Since they have -conceived a juster idea of the law of grace, they are less slaves to -"the letter that killeth;" but still desirous to be faithful to the -very letter, they are studious to do their best, and when any doubt -arises, they hasten to be enlightened thereon, soliciting in a spirit -of faith and humility that permission of which they may think -themselves to stand in need. - -The principal chief is named "Big Face," on account of the somewhat -elongated form of his visage; he might more nobly and more -appropriately be named The Nestor of the Desert, for as well in years -as in stature and sagacity he has all the essentials of greatness. -From his earliest infancy, nay, even before he could know his parents, -he had been the child of distress. Being left a helpless orphan, by -the death of his mother, with no one to protect him, it was proposed -to bury him with her in the same grave--a circumstance that may serve -to give some idea of the ignorance and brutality of his tribe. But the -Almighty, who had [CXLIII] other purposes in his regard, moved the -heart of a young woman to compassionate his helpless condition, and -offer to become a mother to him. Her humanity was abundantly -recompensed by seeing her adopted son distinguished above all his -fellows by intelligence, gentleness, and every good disposition. He -was grateful, docile, charitable, and naturally so disposed to piety, -that, from a want of knowing the true God, he more than once was led -to place his trust in that which was but the work of his own -hands.--Being one day lost in a forest, and reduced to extremity, he -began to embrace the trunk of a fallen tree, and to conjure it to have -pity upon him. Nor is it above two months since a serious loss befell -him; indeed one of the most serious that could happen to an -Indian--the loss of three calumets at the same time. He spent no time -in retracing his steps, and to interest heaven in his favor, he put up -the following prayer: "Oh Great Spirit, you who see all things and -undo all things, grant, I entreat you, that I may find what I am -looking for; and yet let thy will be done." This prayer should have -been addressed to God. He did not find the calumets, but in their -place he received what was of more incomparable value--simplicity, -piety, wisdom, patience, courage, and cool intrepidity in the hour of -danger. More favored in one respect than Moses, this new guide of -another people to God, after a longer sojournment in the wilderness, -was at length successful in introducing his children into the land of -promise. He was the first of his tribe who received baptism, and took -the name of Paul, and like his patron, the great Apostle, he has -labored assiduously to gain over his numerous children to the -friendship and love of his Lord and Master. - - I remain, Rev. Father Provincial, - Yours, &c. - P. J. DE SMET, S.J. - -FOOTNOTES: - -[225] The Bitterroot River rises in two forks in the main chain of the -Rockies, on the northern slope of the divide between Montana and -Idaho, and flows almost directly north through a beautiful, fertile -valley, until at Fort Missoula it unites with the Hell Gate to form -Missoula River. The name is derived from the plant _Lewisia rediviva_ -(French, _racine amère_), which was occasionally used by the Indians -as food. The name St. Mary's River, assigned by Father de Smet, is -frequently found on early maps.--ED. - -[226] The site of St. Mary's mission was on the east bank of the -Bitterroot, about eighteen miles above its mouth, near old Fort Owen and -the modern Stevensville. For the further history of St. Mary's mission -see Palladino, _Indian and White in the Northwest_, pp. 32-67.--ED. - -[227] The Cœur d'Alène (awl-hearted) Indians are a branch of the -Salishan family, whose tribal name is Skitswish (Lewis and Clark, -Skeetsomish). Many unauthenticated traditions are afloat in regard to -the origin of this term, which seems to be allied to some form of -parsimony. The habitat of this tribe, near the lake of that name in -northern Idaho, is still the seat of their reservation, which was set -off in 1867, but not occupied until after the treaty of 1873. The -tribal population has been almost stationary since first known, -numbering nearly five hundred. Their language is quite similar to the -Spokan. The Cœur d'Alène are agriculturists, wear civilized dress, and -are now receiving their lands by allotment.--ED. - -[228] This was the estimated number of Indians under Jesuit control in -Paraguay, at the time of greatest prosperity.--ED. - -[229] This Pend d'Oreille's native name was Chalax, and he is said to -have been before his baptism a famous medicine man.--ED. - -[230] For the Spokan see Franchère's _Narrative_, in our volume vi, p. -341, note 146.--ED. - -[231] Two South American tribes of eastern Bolivia, who long resisted -the Spaniards, but yielded finally to Jesuit missionaries. The mission -to the Chiquito was begun in 1691; they were gathered into two -villages, and easily civilized.--ED. - -[232] Baptized as Ambrose, and one of the most faithful converts. He -was living in 1859. See Chittenden and Richardson, _De Smet_, -index.--ED. - -[233] Another title for Michael, or Insula; see _ante_, p. 147, note -13.--ED. - - - - - LETTER X - - - St. Mary's, Rocky Mountains, 26th Oct. 1842.[234] - - Rev. and Dear Father Provincial: - -This last letter will contain the practical conclusions of what has -been stated in the preceding. I am confident that these conclusions -will be very agreeable and consoling to all persons who feel -interested in the progress of our holy religion, and who very -prudently refuse to form a decided opinion, unless they can found it -on well attested facts. - -From what has hitherto been said, we may draw this conclusion, that -the nation of the Flat Heads appear to be a chosen people--"the elect -of God;" that it would be easy to make this tribe a model for other -tribes,--the seed of two hundred thousand Christians, who would be as -fervent as were the converted Indians of Paraguay; and that the -conversion of the former would be effected with more facility than -that of the latter. The Flat Heads have no communication with corrupt -tribes; they hold all sects in aversion; they have a horror of -idolatry; they cherish much sympathy for the whites, but chiefly for -the Black Gowns, (Catholic Priests) a name, which, in consequence of -the prepossessions and favorable impressions, which they have received -from the Iroquois, is synonymous with goodness, learning, and -Catholicity. Their position is central.--Their territory sufficiently -extensive to contain several missions; the land is fertile, the -country surrounded by [CXLV] high mountains. They are independent of -all authority except that of God, and those who represent him. They -have no tribute to pay but that of prayer; they have already acquired -practical experience of the advantages of a civilized over a barbarous -state of life; and in fine, they are fully convinced and firmly -persuaded that without the religion that is announced to them, they -can be happy neither in this world nor in the next. - -From all these considerations, we may again draw the conclusions, that -the best end which we can propose to ourselves is that which our -Fathers of Paraguay had in view when they commenced their missionary -labors; and that the means to attain this end should be the same, -chiefly because these means have been approved by the most -respectable authorities, crowned with perfect success, and admired -even by the enemies of our religion. - -The principle being admitted, it only remains to form a correct idea -of the method employed by our Fathers in Paraguay to improve the minds -and hearts of their Neophytes, and to bring them to that degree of -perfection of which they conceived them susceptible. After having -seriously reflected on what Muratori relates of the establishments in -Paraguay, we have concluded that the following points should be laid -down, as rules to direct the conduct of our converts. - -1. _With regard to God._--Simple, firm, and lively faith with respect -to all the truths of religion, and chiefly such as are to be believed -as Theologians express it, _necessitate medii et necessitate -præcepti_. Profound respect for the only true religion; perfect -submission to the church of God, in all that regards faith and -morality, discipline, &c. Tender and solid piety towards the Blessed -Virgin [CXLVI] and the Saints. Desire of the conversion of others. -Courage and fortitude of the Martyrs. - -2. _With regard to our neighbor._--Respect for those in authority, for -parents, the aged, &c. Justice, charity, and generosity towards all. - -3. _With regard to one's self._--Humility, modesty, meekness, -discretion, temperance, irreproachable behavior, industry or love of -labor, &c. - -We shall strenuously recommend the desire of the conversion of others, -because Providence seems to have great designs with respect to our -small tribe. In one of our instructions given in a little chapel, -constructed of boughs, not less than twenty-four nations were -represented, including ourselves. Next, the courage and fortitude of -the Martyrs, because in the neighborhood of the Black Feet there is -continual danger of losing either the life of the soul, or that of -the body. Also, industry or the love of labor, because idleness is the -predominant vice of Indians; and even the Flat Heads, if they are not -addicted to idleness, at least, manifest a striking inaptitude to -manual labor, and it will be absolutely necessary to conquer this.--To -ensure success, much time and patience will be required. Finally and -chiefly, profound respect for the true religion, to counteract the -manœuvres of various sectaries, who, desirous as it would seem, to -wipe away the reproach formerly made by Muratori, and in our days by -the celebrated Dr. Wiseman,[235] use all their efforts to make -proselytes, and to appear disinterested, and even zealous in the -propagation of their errors. - -4. _With regard to the means._--Flight from all contaminating influence; -not only from the corruption of the age, but from what the gospel calls -the world. Caution against [CXLVII] all immediate intercourse with the -whites, even with the workmen, whom necessity compels us to employ, for -though these are not wicked, still they are far from possessing the -qualities necessary to serve as models to men who are humble enough to -think they are more or less perfect, in proportion as their conduct -corresponds with that of the whites. We shall confine them to the -knowledge of their own language, erect schools among them, and teach -them reading, writing, arithmetic and singing. Should any exception be -made to this general rule, it will be in favor of a small number, and -only when their good dispositions will induce us to hope that we may -employ them as auxiliaries in religion. A more extensive course of -instruction would undoubtedly prove prejudicial to these good Indians, -whose simplicity is such that they might easily be imposed upon, if they -were to come in contact with error, whilst it is the source of all truth -and virtue when enlightened by the flambeau of faith. La Harpe himself, -speaking of the Apostolic laborers of our society, says that the -perfection of our ministry consists in illumining by faith the ignorance -of the savage.[236] - -To facilitate the attainment of the end in view, we have chosen the -place of the first missionary station, formed the plan of the village, -made a division of the lands, determined the form of the various -buildings, &c. The buildings deemed most necessary and useful at present -are, a church, schools, work houses, store houses, &c. Next, we have -made regulations respecting public worship, religious exercises, -instructions, catechisms, confraternities, the administration of the -Sacraments, singing, music, &c. All this is to be executed in conformity -with the plan formerly adopted in the Missions of Paraguay. - -Such are the resolutions which we have adopted, and [CXLVIII] which we -submit to be approved, amended or modified, by those who have the -greater glory of God at heart, and who, by their position and the -graces of their state of life, are designed by the Most High to -communicate to us the true spirit of our Society. - - Believe me to be, - Rev. and dear Father Provincial, - Your devoted son in Christ, - P. J. DE SMET, S.J. - - -FOOTNOTES: - -[234] The context proves this to be a misprint for 1841.--ED. - -[235] Nicholas Patrick Stephen Wiseman (1802-65), born in Seville of -Irish parents, was inducted into holy orders at Rome in 1824. He was a -noted scholar and controversialist, well known to the English-speaking -world, and closely connected with the Oxford movement. In 1848 he was -made cardinal-archbishop of Westminster, whereupon he issued an -_Appeal to Reason and Good Feeling_, which won him many friends among -the English people.--ED. - -[236] Probably Jean François de La Harpe (1739-1803), a French critic -and satirist, who from being a Voltairean became an ardent Christian -in the latter years of his life.--ED. - - - - - LETTER XI - - - St. Mary's, December --, 1841. - - Reverend Father: - -I shall here give you the remarks and observations I have made, and -the information I have gathered, during this last journey, concerning -some customs and practices of the savages. - -In speaking of the animals, I inquired of seven Flat Heads, who were -present, how many cows they had killed between them in their last -hunt? The number amounted to one hundred and eighty-nine--one alone -had killed fifty-nine. One of the Flat Heads told me of three -remarkable _hits_ which had distinguished him in that chase. He -pursued a cow, armed merely with a stone, and killed her by striking -her while running, between the horns; he afterwards killed a second -with his knife; and finished his exploits by spearing and strangling a -large ox. The young warriors frequently exercise themselves in this -manner, to show their agility, dexterity and strength. He who spoke -looked like a Hercules. They then, (a rare favor, for they are not -boasters,) kindly showed me the scars left by the balls and arrows of -the Black Feet in their different encounters. One of them bore the -scars of four balls which had pierced his thigh; the only consequence -of which was a little stiffness of the leg, scarcely perceptible. -Another had his arm and breast pierced by a ball. A third, beside some -wounds from a knife and spear, had an arrow, five inches [CL] deep, in -his belly. A fourth had still two balls in his body. One among them, a -cripple, had his leg broken by a ball sent by an enemy concealed in a -hole; leaping on one leg he fell upon the Black Foot, and the hiding -place of the foe became his grave. "These Black Feet," I remarked, -"are terrible people." The Indian who last spoke replied in the sense -of the words of Napoleon's grenadier, "Oui, mais ils meurent vite -apres." I expressed a desire to know the medicines which they use in -such cases; they, much surprised at my question, replied, laughing, -"we apply nothing to our wounds, they close of themselves." This -recalled to me the reply of Captain Bridger in the past year. He had -had, within four years, two quivers-full of arrows in his body. Being -asked if the wounds had been long suppurating, he answered in a -comical manner, "among the mountains nothing corrupts."[237] - -The Indians who live on Clarke river are of the middle size.[238] The -women are very filthy. Their faces, hands and feet are black and -stiff with dirt. They rub them every morning with a composition of red -and brown earth mixed up with fish oil. Their hair, always long and -dishevelled, serves them for a towel to wipe their hands on. Their -garment is generally tattered, and stiff and shining with dust and -grease. They seem to be less subjected to slavish labor than the -squaws that live East of the Mountains, still they have to toil hard, -and to do whatever is most difficult. They are obliged to carry all -the household furniture or to row the canoe when they move from one -place to another at home, they fetch the wood and the water, clean the -fish, prepare the meals, gather the roots and fruits of the season, -and when any leisure time is left, they spend it in making mats, -baskets and hats of bull-rushes. What must appear rather singular is, -[CLI] that the men more frequently handle the needle than the squaws. -Their chief occupations, however, are fishing and hunting. These -Indians suffer much from ophthalmic affections. Scarcely a cabin is to -be found on Clarke river, in which there is not a blind or one eyed -person, or some one laboring under some disease of the eye. This -probably proceeds from two causes--first, because they are frequently -on the water and exposed from morning till night to the direct and -reflected rays of the sun, and next, because living in low cabins made -of bull-rushes, the large fire they make in the centre fills it with -smoke, which must gradually injure their eyes. - -Conjurers are found here as well as in some parts of Europe. They are -a kind of physicians. Whatever may be the complaint of the patient -these gentlemen have him stretched out on his back, and his friends -and relatives are ordered to stand round him, each one armed with two -sticks of unequal length. The doctor or conjurer neither feels the -pulse nor looks at the tongue, but with a solemn countenance commences -to sing some mournful strain, whilst those present accompany him with -their voices and beat time with the sticks. During the singing the -doctor operates on the patient, he kneels before him, and placing his -closed fists on the stomach, leans on him with all his might. -Excessive pain makes the patient roar, but his roarings are lost in -the noise, for the doctor and the bystanders raise their voices higher -in proportion as the sick man gives utterance to his sufferings. At -the end of each stanza the doctor joins his hands, applies them to the -patient's lips, and blows with all his strength. This operation is -repeated till at last the doctor takes from the patient's mouth, -either a little white stone, or the claw of some bird or animal, which -he exhibits to the bystanders, protesting that he has [CLII] removed -the cause of the disease, and that the patient will soon recover. But -whether he recover or die, the quack is here as elsewhere rewarded for -his exertions. _Mundus vult decipi_, is the watchword of quacks, -jugglers and mountebanks; and it seems that the Indian conjurers are -not unacquainted with it. I received this description of their method -of curing diseases from a clerk of the Hudson Bay Company. I shall -subjoin another anecdote concerning the religious ideas entertained by -the Tchenooks.[239] All men, they say, were created by a divinity -called _Etalapasse_, but they were created imperfect or unfinished. -Their mouths were not cleft, their eyes were closed, and their hands -and feet were immovable; so that they were rather living lumps of -flesh than men. Another divinity, whom they call _Ecannum_ -(resembling the _Nanaboojoo_ of the Potowattamies,) less powerful, but -more benevolent than the former, seeing the imperfect state of these -men, took a sharp stone and with it opened their mouths and eyes. He -also gave motion to their hands and feet. This merciful divinity did -not rest satisfied with conferring these first favors on the human -race. He taught them to make canoes and paddles, nets and all the -implements now used by the Indians. He threw large rocks into the -rivers to obstruct their courses, and confine the fish in order that -the Indians might catch them in larger quantities. - -When I speak of the Indian character, I do not mean to include the -Indians that live in the neighborhood of civilized man, and have -intercourse with him. It is acknowledged in the United States, that -the whites who trade with those Indians, not only demoralize them by -the sale of spirituous liquors, but communicate to them their own -vices, of which some are shocking and revolting to nature. The Indian -left to himself, is circumspect and discreet in his [CLIII] words and -actions. He seldom gives way to passion; except against the hereditary -enemies of his nation. When there is question of them, his words -breathe hatred and vengeance. He seeks revenge, because he firmly -believes that it is the only means by which he can retrieve his honor -when he has been insulted or defeated; because he thinks that only low -and vulgar minds can forget an injury, and he fosters rancor because -he deems it a virtue. With respect to others, the Indian is cool and -dispassionate, checking the least violent emotion of his heart. Thus -should he know that one of his friends is in danger of being attacked -by an enemy lying in wait for him, he will not openly tell him so, -(for he would deem this an act of fear,) but will ask him where he -intends to go that day, and after having received an answer, will add -with the same indifference, that a wild beast lies hidden on the way. -This figurative remark will render his friend as cautious as if he -were acquainted with all the designs and movements of the enemy. Thus -again, if an Indian has been hunting without success, he will go to -the cabin of one of his friends, taking care not to show the least -sign of disappointment or impatience, nor to speak of the hunger which -he suffers. He will sit down and smoke the calumet with as much -indifference as if he had been successful in the chase. He acts in the -same manner when he is among strangers. To give signs of -disappointment or impatience, is looked upon by the Indians as a mark -of cowardice, and would earn for them the appellation of "old woman," -which is the most injurious and degrading epithet that can be applied -to an Indian. If an Indian be told that his children have -distinguished themselves in battle,--that they have taken several -scalps, and have carried off many enemies and horses, without giving -the least sign of joy, he will answer: "They have done [CLIV] well." -If he be informed that they have been killed or made prisoners, he -will utter no complaint, but will simply say: "It is unfortunate." He -will make no inquiries into the circumstances; several days must -elapse before he asks for further information. - -The Indian is endowed with extraordinary sagacity, and easily learns -whatever demands attention. Experience and observation render him -conversant with things that are unknown to the civilized man. Thus, he -will traverse a plain or forest one or two hundred miles in extent, -and will arrive at a particular place with as much precision as the -mariner by the aid of the compass. Unless prevented by obstacles, he, -without any material deviation, always travels in a straight line, -regardless of path or road. In the same manner he will point out the -exact place of the sun, when it is hidden by mists or clouds. Thus, -too, he follows with the greatest accuracy, the traces of men or -animals, though these should have passed over the leaves or the grass, -and nothing be perceptible to the eye of the white man. He acquires -this knowledge from a constant application of the intellectual -faculties, and much time and experience are required to perfect this -perceptive quality. Generally speaking, he has an excellent -memory.--He recollects all the articles that have been concluded upon -in their councils and treaties, and the exact time when such councils -were held or such treaties ratified. - -Some writers have supposed that the Indians are guided by instinct, -and have even ventured to assert that their children would find their -way through the forests as well as those further advanced in age. I -have consulted some of the most intelligent Indians on this subject, -and they have uniformly told me that they acquire this practical -knowledge by long and close attention to the growth of [CLV] plants -and trees, and to the sun and stars. It is known that the north side -of a tree is covered with a greater quantity of moss than any other, -and that the boughs and foliage on the south side are more abundant -and luxuriant. Similar observations tend to direct them, and I have -more than once found their reflections useful to myself in the -excursions I have made through the forests. Parents teach their -children to remark such things, and these in their turn sometimes add -new discoveries to those of their fathers. They measure distances by a -day's journey. When an Indian travels alone, his day's journey will be -about 50 or 60 English miles, but only 15 or 20 when he moves with the -camp. They divide their journeys, as we do the hours, into halves and -quarters; and when in their councils they decide on war or on distant -excursions, they lay off these journeys with astonishing accuracy on a -kind of map, which they trace on bark or skins. Though they have no -knowledge of geography, nor of any science that relates to it, yet -they form with sufficient accuracy maps of the countries which they -know; nothing but the degrees of longitude and latitude are wanting in -some to make them exact. - -I remember to have read in Fr. Charlevoix' journal that the Indians are -remarkably superstitious with respect to dreams.[240] This is still the -case, though they interpret them in various ways. Some maintain that -during sleep the rational part of the soul travels about, whilst the -sensitive continues to animate the body. Others say that the good -Manitoo or familiar spirit gives salutary advice concerning the future, -whilst others hold that in sleep the soul visits the objects about which -she dreams. But all look upon dreams as sacred, and as the ordinary -channels through which the Great Spirit and the Manitoos communicate -[CLVI] their designs to man. Impressed with this idea, the Indian is at -a loss to conceive why we disregard them. As they look upon dreams as -representations of the desires of some unearthly genius, or of the -commands of the Great Spirit, they deem themselves bound to observe and -obey them. Charlevoix tells us somewhere, and I have seen instances of a -similar kind, that an Indian who had dreamed that he had cut off his -finger, actually cut it, and prepared himself for the act by a fast. -Another having dreamed that he was a prisoner among a hostile nation, -not knowing how to act, consulted the jugglers, and according to their -decision, had himself bound to a stake, and fire applied to several -parts of his body. I doubt whether the quotation is correct, as I have -not the work of Charlevoix to consult, but I know that I have described -a superstitious belief which is generally held by the Indians of the -present day. - -When the Pottowatomies or any of the northern nations make or renew a -treaty of peace, they present a wampum, sash or collar. The wampum is -made of a shell called baceinum, and shaped into small beads in the -form of pearls. When they conclude an alliance, offensive or -defensive, with other tribes, they send them a wampum, sash and -tomahawk dipped in blood, inviting them to come and drink of the blood -of their enemies. This figurative expression often becomes a reality. -Among the nations of the West the calumet is looked upon with equal -reverence, whether in peace or war. They smoke the calumet to confirm -their treaties and alliances. This smoking is considered a solemn -engagement, and he who should violate it, would be deemed unworthy of -confidence, infamous, and an object of divine vengeance. In time of -war, the calumet and all its ornaments are red. Sometimes it is partly -red, and partly of some other color. By the color and the manner -[CLVII] of disposing the feathers, a person acquainted with their -practices, knows at first sight what are the designs or intentions of -the nation that presents the calumet. - -The smoking of the calumet forms a part of all their religious -ceremonies. It is a kind of sacred rite which they perform when they -prepare themselves to invoke the Great Spirit, and take the sun and -moon, the earth and the water as witnesses of the sincerity of their -intentions, and the fidelity with which they promise to comply with -their engagements. However ridiculous this custom of smoking may appear -to some, it has a good effect among the Indians. Experience has taught -them that the smoke of the calumet dispels the vapors of the brain, aids -them to think and judge with greater accuracy and precision, and excites -their courage. This seems to be the principal reason why they have -introduced it into their councils, where it is looked upon as the seal -of their decisions. It is also sent as a pledge of fidelity to those -whom they wish to consult, or with whom they desire to form an alliance. -I know that the opinions of the Indians concerning the beneficial -effects of smoking the calumet will be sanctioned by few persons, -because it is demonstrated from experience that the smoke of tobacco -acts as a powerful narcotic upon the nervous system, and produces -soporific and debilitating effects; but it should be remembered that -such effects are not produced when the smoke is inhaled into the lungs, -as is the universal practice of the Indians. - -The funeral ceremonies of the Calkobins, who inhabit New Caledonia, -west of the mountains, are fantastic and revolting. Mr. Cox, in his -journal, tells us that the body of the deceased is exposed in his -lodge for nine days, and on the tenth is burned.[241] They choose for -this purpose an elevated place, and there erect a funeral -pile.--[CLVIII] In the meanwhile, they invite their neighbors from all -sides, entreating them to repair to the ceremony. All the preparations -being completed, the corpse is placed on the pile, which they light, -while the spectators manifest the greatest joy. All that the deceased -possessed is placed around the body; and if he be a person of -distinction, his friends purchase for him a cloak, a shirt, and a -pair of breeches: these are laid beside him. The medicine man must be -present, and, for the last time, has recourse to his enchantments, to -recall the departed to life. Not succeeding, he covers the dead -body--that is, he makes a present of a piece of cloth, or leather, and -thus appeases the anger of the relatives, and escapes the vengeance -they have a right to inflict upon him. During the nine days on which -the corpse is exposed, the widow is obliged to remain near it from the -rising to the setting of the sun; and, notwithstanding the excessive -heats of summer, no relaxation is allowed from this barbarous custom. -While the doctor is occupied in his last operation, the widow must lie -down beside the corpse, until he orders her to withdraw from the pile; -and this order is not given until the unfortunate being is covered -with blisters. She then is made to pass and repass her hands through -the flames, to collect the fat, which flows from the body: with this -she rubs her person. When the friends of the deceased observe that the -sinews of the legs and arms begin to contract, they force the -miserable widow to return to the pile, and straighten the limbs. - -If, during the lifetime of the husband, the woman had been unfaithful -to him, or had neglected to provide for his wants, his relations then -revenge themselves upon her; they throw her upon the pile, from whence -she is dragged by her own relations. She is again cast upon it, and -again withdrawn, until she falls into a state of insensibility. - -[CLIX] The body being consumed, the widow gathers together the largest -bones; these she encloses in a birch box, which she is forced to carry -for many years. She is looked upon while in this state as a slave; the -hardest and most laborious work falls to her lot; she must obey every -order of the women, and even of the children; and the least -disobedience or repugnance draws down upon her severe chastisement. -The ashes of her husband are deposited in a tomb, and it is her duty -to remove from thence the weeds. These unhappy women frequently -destroy themselves to avoid so many cruelties. At the end of three or -four years the relatives agree to put an end to her mourning. They -prepare a great feast for this occasion, and invite all the neighbors. -The widow is then introduced, still carrying the bones of the husband; -these are taken from her, and shut up in a coffin, which is fastened -at the end by a stake about twelve feet long. All the guests extol her -painful widowhood; one of whom pours upon her head a vessel of oil, -whilst another covers her with down. It is only after this ceremony -that the widow can marry again; but, as may be readily supposed, the -number of those who hazard a second marriage is very small. - - I have the honor to be - Rev. and dear Father Provincial, - Your devoted servant and son, - P. J. DE SMET, S.J. - -FOOTNOTES: - -[237] James Bridger was for nearly fifty years well known as a trapper, -hunter, and guide throughout the Rocky Mountains. De Smet speaks of him -as "one of the truest specimens of a real trapper and Rocky Mountain -man." Born in Virginia in 1804, his parents removed to Missouri before -the War of 1812-15. He was first apprenticed to a St. Louis blacksmith, -but as early as 1822 went to the mountains with Andrew Henry. Becoming -one of Ashley's band, he explored Great Salt Lake in 1824-25, and by -1830 had visited Yellowstone Park. He afterwards entered the American -Fur Company, in whose service he was retained until he built Fort -Bridger in 1843. There he lived for many years with his Indian -(Shoshoni) wife, greatly aiding Western emigration. His ability as a -topographer was remarkable, and he knew the trans-Mississippi country as -did few others. His services as a guide were, therefore, in great demand -for all government and large private expeditions, General Sheridan -consulting him in reference to an Indian campaign as late as 1868. As -the West became civilized, and lost its distinctive frontier features, -Bridger retired to a farm near Kansas City, where he died in 1881. His -name is attached to several Western regions, notably Bridger's Peak, in -southwestern Montana. For his portrait (taken about 1865) see Montana -Historical Society _Contributions_, iii, p. 181; the figure of the -"Trapper" in the dome of the Montana State capitol at Helena, is also -said to be a portrait of this picturesque character. Bridger was so -noted for his remarkable tales of Western adventures and wonders that -his descriptions of Yellowstone Park were long uncredited, being -contemptuously referred to as "Jim Bridger's lies." Apropos of this tale -of arrow-wounds, it may be noted that in 1835 Dr. Marcus Whitman -extracted from Bridger's shoulder an iron arrowhead that had been -embedded therein for several years.--ED. - -[238] Clark's River (or more exactly, Clark's Fork of Columbia) was -named by the explorers Lewis and Clark September 6, 1805, upon reaching -the upper forks of its tributary the Bitterroot. It takes the name of -Missoula from the junction of Bitterroot and Hell Gate rivers, but -becomes distinctly Clark's Fork after receiving its great tributary from -the northeast, the Flathead River. Its general course is north from the -southern border of Montana, until turning slightly northwest it crosses -into Idaho and broadens out into Pend d'Oreille Lake, running thence in -a northwest course until it empties into the Columbia just on the -boundary line between Washington and British Columbia. The bands -referred to as "Clarke River" tribes are chiefly of Salishan stock--the -Flatheads, Cœur d'Alène, and Pend d'Oreille.--ED. - -[239] For the Chinook (Tchenook) Indians see our volume vi, p. 240, -note 40.--ED. - -[240] For Charlevoix see our volume xiii, p. 116, notes 81, 82.--ED. - -[241] The following description is taken almost verbatim from the book -of Ross Cox, _Adventures on the Columbia River_ (New York, 1832), pp. -328-330. By the Calkobins is intended the Talkotins, a poor rendering -of the Indian tribal name Lhtho'ten, or people of Fraser River. This -was a tribe of Carrier (Taculli) Indians of the Tinneh stock, who -inhabited the region around the fur-trade post of Alexandria, on -Fraser River. By a census of about 1825 they numbered but 166; the -revolting customs relative to the disposal of the dead were, however, -common to all the Carrier Indians, whose name is said by some to have -been given because of the burden of their husband's ashes, worn by the -widows of the tribe. More probably, the name was derived from their -function of aiding in "carries" or portages across the upper Rockies. - -New Caledonia was discovered by Alexander Mackenzie in 1793; its posts -were begun under Simon Fraser (1805-06). During the fur-trading -period, it was an important division of the Hudson's Bay Company's -Pacific provinces; but was dependent upon the Columbia district, with -headquarters at Vancouver. The chief posts of New Caledonia were St. -James, Stuart Lake, and Alexandria. For its boundaries, etc., consult -Ross's _Oregon Settlers_, in our volume vii, p. 194, note 61.--ED. - - - - - LETTER XII - - - St. Marie, Dec. 30th, 1841. - - Reverend Father: - -I have given you the happy and consoling result of my journey in -November. Before the close of the year I have yet to make you -acquainted with what has passed during my absence, and since my -return, among the Flat Heads; all goes to prove what I have advanced -in my preceding letters. - -The Rev. Fathers Mengarini and Point were not idle during my absence. -The following will give you some idea of the state of affairs on my -return, both in regard to material and spiritual matters, as well as -the practices and usages established, which could not but tend to -strengthen, more and more, our good neophytes. - -The plan mentioned in my letters, and unanimously approved, and which we -were urged to carry into execution, was, to commence with what appeared -to be the most urgent. We enclosed the field destined to become God's -portion of the settlement. We started the buildings intended to be -hereafter dependencies of the farm, but serving temporarily for a church -and residence, on account of the approach of winter, and our wish to -unite the whole colony. These works were indispensable, and were carried -on with such spirit that in the space of a month the new buildings could -shelter from four to five hundred souls. - -The Flat Heads, assisting us with their whole heart and [CLXI] -strength, had, in a short time, cut from two to three thousand stakes; -and the three brothers, with no other tools than the axe, saw and -auger, constructed a chapel with pediment, colonade and gallery, -balustrade, choir, seats, &c. by St. Martin's day; when they assembled -in the little chapel all the catechumens, and continued the -instructions which were to end on the third of December, the day fixed -for their baptism. In the interval between these two remarkable -epochs, there was, on each day, one instruction more than usual. This -last instruction, intended chiefly for grown persons, was given at 8 -o'clock in the evening, and lasted about an hour and a quarter. These -good savages, whose ears and hearts are alike open when the word of -God is addressed to them, appeared still better disposed in the -evening; the silence being unbroken by the cries of infants or -children. Our heavenly Father so graciously heard their prayers, that -on St. Francis Xavier's day the good Fathers had the consolation of -baptising two hundred and two adults. - -So many souls wrested from the demons was more than enough to excite -their rage,--seeds of distrust, hindrances occasioned by the best -intentioned, the sickness of the interpreter and sexton, at the very -moment their assistance was most required; a kind of hurricane, which -took place the evening before the baptism, and which overturned three -lodges in the camp, the trees torn from their roots, and every thing in -appearance about to be uprooted, even to the foundations of the -church--the organ unintentionally broken by the savages, on the eve of -being applied to so beautiful a purpose--all seemed to conspire against -them; but the day for baptism arrives, and every cloud disappears. - -The Fathers had intended to solemnize the marriages of [CLXII] the -husbands and wives on the same day as their baptism. They had even -announced that the ceremony would take place after baptism; but the -sacred rite having occupied a much longer time than they supposed, on -account of the necessity of interpreting all that was said, they were -obliged to defer this sacrament until the next day, trusting to God and -the new Christians, for the preservation of their baptismal innocence. - -As our former Missionaries have left nothing in writing on the conduct -we should observe with regard to marriage, it may, perhaps, be useful -to relate here what has been our course, in order that our conduct may -be rectified if it has not been judicious. - -We hold the principle, that, generally speaking, there are no valid -marriages among the savages of these countries; and for this reason; we -have not found one, even among the best disposed, who, after marriage -had been contracted in their own fashion, did not believe himself -justified in sending away his first wife, whenever he thought fit, and -taking another. Many even have several wives in the same lodge. It is, -however, true, that many when entering the marriage state, promise that -nothing but death will ever separate them; that they will never give -their hand to another. But what impassioned man or woman has not said as -much? Can we infer from this that the contract is valid, when it is -universally received, that even after such promises they have not the -less right to do as they please, when they become disgusted with each -other? We are then agreed on this principle, that among them, even to -the present time, there has been no marriage, because they have never -known well in what its essence and obligation consisted. To adopt an -opposite view would be to involve oneself in a labyrinth of -difficulties, from which it would be [CLXIII] very difficult to escape. -This was, if I am not mistaken, the conduct of St. Francis Xavier in the -Indies, since it is said in his Life, that he praised before the married -those whom he supposed to be dearest to them, that they might be more -easily induced to keep to one alone. Secondly, supposing then that there -were material faults in their marriages, the necessity of a renewal was -not spoken of but for the time which followed baptism, and this took -place the day following that happy occasion. - -After the Fathers had gained the necessary information respecting the -degrees of relationship, and had given the necessary dispensations, the -marriage ceremony, preceded by a short instruction, was performed, and -contributed greatly to give the people a high idea of our holy religion. - -The twenty-four marriages then contracted presented that mixture of -simplicity, of respectful affection, and profound joy, which are the -sure indications of a good conscience. There were among the couples, -good old men and women; but their presence only rendered the ceremony -more respectable in the eyes of those assembled; for among the Flat -Heads all that relates to religion is sacred; unhappy he who would so -express himself before them, as to lead them to believe that he -thought otherwise. They left the chapel, their hearts filled with -sentiments purified by that grace which constitutes the charm of every -state of life, and especially of those in wedlock. - -The only thing that appeared strange to them was, when the Fathers -spoke of taking the names of witnesses; but when they were told that -this was only done because the church so ordained, to give more -authority and dignity to the marriage contract, they no longer saw in -it any thing but what was reasonable, and the question was, who should -be witness for the others? - -[CLXIV] The same astonishment was manifested with regard to -god-fathers. The interpreter had translated the word god-father, a -term which is not in their language, by second father. The poor -savages not knowing what this meant, or what consequences this title -would imply, were not eager to make a choice. To be a god-father -moreover offered no great attraction. As soon as we made them -understand it, their difficulties vanished, and the more easily; for -not to multiply spiritual affinities, a god-father only was given to -the men, and a god-mother to the women; and as to the obligations -attached to the honour of being sponsors, they were much less here -than elsewhere, the Black Gowns promising to take upon themselves the -greatest part of the burden. For the first baptisms our choice of -sponsors was very limited; only thirteen grown persons were qualified -to act in this capacity,--but the most aged persons being baptised -before the others, they, without laying aside the lighted candle, (the -symbol of faith) were chosen for the second division; and so in like -manner with the rest. - -The day preceding the baptism, the Fathers, on account of their -labors, were only able to collect the colony twice; besides, F. -Mengarini was indisposed. In the evening, however, he assembled the -people, and great was their astonishment on beholding the decorations -of the chapel. Some days previously the Fathers had engaged all who -were willing, to make matts of rushes or straws. All the women, girls -and children, assembled eagerly for this good work, so that they had -enough to cover the floor and ceiling, and hang round the walls. These -matts, ornamented with festoons of green, made a pretty drapery around -the altar. On a canopy was inscribed the holy name of Jesus. Among the -ornaments they placed a picture of the Blessed Virgin over the -tabernacle; on the door of the tabernacle a [CLXV] representation of -the heart of Jesus. The pictures of the way of the Cross, in red -frames; the lights, the silence of night, the approach of the -important day, the calm after the hurricane, which had burst on them -only a few moments before--all these circumstances united, had, with -the grace of God, so well disposed the minds and hearts of our -Indians, that it would have been scarcely possible to find on earth an -assembly of savages more resembling a company of saints. This was the -beautiful bouquet which the Fathers were permitted to present to Saint -Francis Xavier. The next day they were engaged from eight o'clock in -the morning until half past ten at night, in the church, excepting -only one hour and a half, which they gave to repose. The following was -the order followed. First, they baptized the chiefs and married men. -These were chosen as god-fathers for the young men and little boys; -then the married women, whose husbands were living with them; -afterwards the widows and wives who had been cast off; and, lastly, -the young women and girls. - -It was gratifying to hear with what intelligence these good savages -replied to all the questions addressed to them, and to see them praying -at the moment of receiving baptism. At the end, each received a taper -whose blended light beautifully illuminated our humble chapel. - -But let us come to something still more edifying. I shall not speak of -their assiduous attendance at the instructions,--of their eagerness to -hear our words,--of the evident profit they received from them; all -this is common in the course of a mission; but rarely do we witness -the heroic sacrifices which these Indians have made. Many, who had two -wives, have retained her whose children were most numerous, and with -all possible respect dismissed the other. One evening, a savage came -to seek the [CLXVI] Fathers at the lodge, which was filled with -Indians, and unabashed by any merely human consideration, asked what -he should do in his present circumstances? On the instant he acted -according to the instructions given him; he dismissed his youngest -wife, giving her what he would have wished another to give to his -sister, if in the same situation, and was re-united to his first wife, -whom he had forsaken. After an instruction, a young woman, asking to -speak, said that "she desired very much to receive baptism, but that -she had been so wicked she dared not make the request." Each one would -have made a public confession. A great number of young mothers, -married according to the mode of the savages, but abandoned by their -husbands, who were of some other tribe, renounced them most willingly, -to have the happiness of being baptised. - -The ordinary regulations observed in the village are as follows: when -the _Angelus_ rings, the Indians rise from sleep; half an hour after, -the morning prayers are said in common; all assist at Mass and at the -instruction. A second instruction is given at evening, towards sun -set, and lasts about an hour and a quarter. At two o'clock in the -afternoon we have the regular catechism for the children, at which -grown persons may assist if they think proper. The children are formed -into two divisions: the first is composed exclusively of those who -know the first prayers; the second of the smaller children. One of -the Fathers each morning visits the sick, to furnish them with -medicines, and give them such assistance as their wants may require. - -We have adopted the system of instruction and bestowing rewards, in -usage in the schools of the brothers of the Christian doctrine. During -catechism, which lasts about an hour, we have recitations and -explanations, intermingled [CLXVII] with canticles. Every day, for -each good answer, tickets of approbation are given; one or more, -according to the difficulty of the question proposed. Experience has -proved that these tickets given at once, are less embarrassing than -when we mark their names on a list; the former plan takes less time, -and interests the children more, rendering them, besides, more -assiduous and careful. These tickets serve, at the same time, as -certificates of attendance at catechism, and as tokens of intelligence -and good will, they please the parent not less than their children. -The former are incited to make their children repeat what has been -said at catechism, to render them capable of answering better the -following day; and also with a desire of improving themselves. The -wish to see their children distinguish themselves, has attracted -almost the whole colony to catechism: none of the chiefs who have -children fail to be there; and there is not less emulation among the -parents than among the children themselves. A still greater value is -attached to the tickets, from the exactitude and justice with which -the deserving are rewarded. They who have obtained good tickets during -the week, are rewarded on Sunday with crosses, medals, or ribbons, -publicly distributed. On the first Sunday of every month they -distribute to those who have received the most good tickets in the -course of the month, medals or pictures, which become their private -property. These pictures, preserved with care, are great stimulants, -not only to the study of their catechism but also to the practice of -piety. They are monuments of victory, examples of virtue, exhortations -to piety, and models of perfection. Their rarity, and the efforts -necessary to obtain them, also enhance their worth. As we desire to -inspire the savages, who are naturally inclined to idleness, with a -love for work, it has been judged suitable to reward [CLXVIII] their -little efforts in the same manner as we recompense their improvement -in, and knowledge of their catechism. - -To maintain order, and promote emulation among them, the catechism -children are divided into seven or eight sections, of six each; the -boys on one side, the girls on the other. At the head of each section -there is a chief, who must assist the children placed under him to -learn their catechism; that thus every child may indulge the hope of -meriting a reward at the end of the week or month. They are so divided -that the competitors, to the number of five or six in each section, -may be of nearly equal capacity. - -Father Point, who was, immediately after Christmas, to accompany the -assembled camps of Flat Heads, Pends-d'oreilles, Nez-perces, &c. -prepared for his new campaign by a retreat of eight days. Twenty-four -marriages, as I have already said, had been celebrated during my -absence, and two hundred and two adults, with little boys and girls -from eight to fourteen years of age, had been baptised. There were -still, thirty-four couples, who awaited my return, to receive the -sacraments of baptism and marriage, or to renew their marriage vows. -The Nez-perces had not yet presented their children for baptism. There -was an old chief of the Black Feet nation, in the camp, with his son -and his little family, five in all, who had been hitherto very -assiduous in their attendance at prayers and catechism. The day -succeeding my arrival I commenced giving three instructions daily, -besides the catechism, which was taught by the other Fathers. They -profited so well, that with the grace of God, a hundred and fifteen -Flat Heads, with three chiefs at their head, thirty Nez-perces with -their chief, and the Black Foot chief and his family, presented -themselves at the baptismal font on Christmas day. I began my Masses -at seven o'clock in the morning; at five o'clock, P. M. I [CLXIX] -still found myself in the chapel: The heart can conceive, but the -tongue cannot express the emotions which such a consoling spectacle -may well awaken. The following day I celebrated a solemn Mass of -Thanksgiving for the signal favours with which our Lord had deigned to -visit his people. From six to seven hundred new Christians, with bands -of little children, baptised in the past year,--all assembled in a -poor little chapel, covered with rushes--in the midst of a desert, -where but lately, the name of God was scarcely known; offering to the -Creator their regenerated hearts, protesting that they would persevere -in His holy service even to death, was an offering, without doubt, -most agreeable to God, and which, we trust, will draw down the dews of -heaven upon the Flat Head nation and the neighbouring tribes. - -On the 29th the large camp, accompanied by the Fathers, left us for -the great buffalo hunt, and joined the Pends-d'oreilles, who awaited -them at two day's journey hence; there will be above two hundred -lodges. I am filled with hope for the success and fresh victories, -with which, I trust, God will deign to reward the zeal of his servant. -In the mean time we occupy ourselves (Father Mengarini and myself) in -translating the catechism into the Flat Head tongue; and in preparing -one hundred and fifty persons for their first communion. - -Our good brothers and the Canadians are engaged at the same time in -erecting around our establishment a strong palisade, fortified with -bastions, to shelter us from the incursions of the Black Feet, whom we -daily expect to visit us. Our confidence in God is not weakened; we -take the precautions which prudence dictates, and remain without fear -at our post. - -A young Sinpoil has just arrived in our camp, and these [CLXX] are his -words: "I am a Sinpoil, my nation is compassionate. I have been sent -to hear your words, and learn the prayer you teach the Flat Heads. The -Sinpoils desire also to know it, and to imitate their example."[242] -This young man proposes to pass the winter in our camp, and return in -the spring to his own nation, to sow among them the seeds of the -gospel. - -The whole Flat Head nation converted--four hundred Kalispels -baptised--eighty Nez-perces, several Cœurs-d'aliene, many Kooetenays, -Black Feet, Serpents and Banacs,--the Sinpoils, the Chaudieres,[243] -who open their arms to us, and eagerly ask for Fathers to instruct -them; the earnest demands from Fort Vancouver on the part of the -Governor,[244] and of the Rev. Mr. Blanchette, assuring us of the -good desires and dispositions of a great number of nations, ready to -receive the gospel,--in a word, a vast country, which only awaits the -arrival of true ministers of God, to rally round the standard of the -Cross--behold the beautiful bouquet, Rev. Father, which we have the -happiness of presenting you at the close of 1841.[245] It is at the -foot of the crucifix that you are accustomed to ask counsel of heaven -for the welfare of the nations entrusted to your children. Our number -is very far from sufficient for the pressing and real wants of this -people. The Protestants are on the _qui vive_. Send us then some -Fathers and Brothers to assist us, and thousands of souls will bless -you at the throne of God for all eternity. - -Recommending myself to your holy prayers, - - I have the honour to be, with the most profound - respect and esteem, - Rev. Father, Yours, &c. - P. J. DE SMET, S.J. - - -FOOTNOTES: - -[242] Sanpoil has been variously interpreted as a French word (meaning -"without hairs") or as the English rendering of a native word. They -were a tribe of Salishan stock, resident upon the upper Columbia, near -a river in northeastern Washington called from their name. The Sanpoil -did not prove amenable to missionary effort. The governor of -Washington Territory in 1870 represents them as the least civilized -and most independent aborigines of the territory, clinging to their -native religion and customs. Since then, they have been located on the -Colville reservation, where their reputation for honesty and industry -is not high. With their near kindred the Nespelin, they number about -four hundred.--ED. - -[243] The Chaudière (or Kettle) Indians were so named from their -habitat near Kettle Falls of the Columbia. Their native name was -Shwoyelpi (Skoyelpi), rendered Wheelpoo by Lewis and Clark. They were -early brought under Catholic influence, becoming satisfactory -neophytes. The original tribe became extinct about 1854; but their -place was supplied by natives of the vicinity, of similar origin. They -are now known as Colville Indians, and to the number of about three -hundred live on the reservation of that name, where the majority are -Catholic communicants.--ED. - -[244] For Fort Vancouver and its governor, Dr. John McLoughlin, see -Townsend's _Narrative_, in our volume xxi, pp. 296, 297, notes 81, -82.--ED. - -[245] Francis Norbert Blanchet had been a parish priest in the diocese -of Montreal. In 1838, when a call came from the Canadians in the -valley of the Willamette for a priest to minister to their settlement, -Blanchet was sent out with the Hudson's Bay brigade, arriving at Fort -Vancouver in the autumn of that year. Early in January, 1840, St. -Paul's parish, in Willamette Valley, was established by Blanchet, and -the church erected therefor in 1836 was occupied. In 1843 Blanchet was -appointed vicar apostolic of the territory of the British crown west -of the Rockies. Going to Montreal for consecration, he afterwards -visited Europe, where he was created archbishop of Oregon, with a seat -at Oregon City. For his portrait see Lyman, _Oregon_ (New York, 1903), -iii, p. 422. His _Historical Sketches of the Catholic church in Oregon -during the past forty years_ was published at Portland in 1878.--ED. - - - - - BOOK II - - - - - NARRATIVE OF A YEAR'S RESIDENCE - AMONG THE INDIAN TRIBES OF - THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS - - - Madison Forks,[246] 15th August, 1842. - - Rev. and dear Father: - -After a journey of four months and a half across an ocean of prairies -and mountains, where we met many an obstacle, we arrived this day a -year ago, under the auspices of the Queen of Heaven, at one of the -Forts of the honorable company of Hudson Bay, called Fort Hall. Mr. -Ermantiger, the estimable commander of this Fort, received us in the -most friendly manner, and loaded us with favours. At this place we -found the vanguard of our dear neophytes awaiting us. How joyful and -happy was this meeting. What had they not done to obtain Black Gowns -to visit them? Four times had their deputations crossed the Western -desert--eight of their people had perished on the road, three from -sickness, and five fell victims to the Scioux tribe. Twice from the -Bitter Root river almost all their people had transported themselves -to the Green river, a distance of more than five hundred miles from -their usual encampment. In fine, those who then joined us had at the -first news of our approach again traversed the half of that space to -meet us; nor could they, on [CLXXIV] first seeing us, express their -feelings but by their silence. Very soon, however, they gave vent to -the grateful sentiments of their hearts, in such a manner as to -astonish us. "I am very ignorant and wicked," exclaimed the chief -Wistelpo to his companions, "nevertheless I am grateful to the Great -Spirit for all he has done for us." Detailing all the benefits he had -received he terminated his discourse in the following manner: "Yes, my -dear friends, my heart is filled with contentment, notwithstanding its -wickedness. I do not despair of the goodness of God, I only wish for -life to employ it in prayer; never will I give up praying; I will -continue to pray until my death, and when that hour comes I will throw -myself into the arms of the Master of Life. If it be His will that I -should be lost I will submit to his decree. Should he wish to save me -I will bless him forever. Once more I repeat, my heart is happy. What -can we do to prove to our Fathers that we love them."--Here the chief -made some practical reflections. - -They informed us that since I left them in 1840 their brothers had -always remained in the same dispositions; that according to the plan I -had laid out for them, all the people met twice every day, and three -times on Sundays, to recite in common the prayers I had taught them. -They also told us that the chest containing the sacred ornaments and -vases, which we had left in their charge, was carried about as the ark -of salvation, wherever they went; that five or six children, dying -after having received the sacrament of baptism, had taken their flight -to heaven; that a young warrior, the day after his baptism, had died -from the effects of a wound, which, without the aid of a miracle, -would have carried him off long before; and finally, that a young -child, finding herself at the point of death, solicited baptism with -the greatest earnestness, and after having received [CLXXV] this -favour from the hands of Peter, an Iroquois, she repeated three times -to the witnesses of her happiness: "pray for me--pray for me--pray for -me;" then she prayed herself and sang canticles with a stronger -voice than any of the others, and upon drawing her last breath, she -exclaimed, pointing towards heaven: "Oh! what a beautiful sight! I -behold Mary, my mother, happiness does not belong to earth, in heaven -alone must you seek it. Listen to what the Black Gowns tell you, -because they profess the truth;" and immediately afterwards expired. - -[Illustration: Indian Mode of Travelling] - -We left Fort Hall on the 19th of the month, conducted by our new -guides, who were not long in giving us striking proof of their -devotion towards us. At the crossing of a very rapid river, called the -Lewis' Fork or Snake River, from the savages who people its borders, -one of our brothers, not being able to guide the mules of his cart, -was dragged into a place so deep that his whole equipage was plunged -under the water; immediately the good savages threw themselves into -the river, raised the cart out of the water, employed their hands and -feet so usefully, that only three mules were drowned and some bags of -provisions lost. - -The 29th we met near the source of the Missouri, called the Beaver Head, -a detachment of Flat Heads, having as their leader Ensyla, called the -Little Chief, who has since received in baptism the name of Michael, on -account of his fidelity and courage. A few days previous, a party of -Indians having been discovered on the adjacent heights, a cry was raised -of "the Black Feet! the Black Feet!" Instantly the little camp put -itself on the defensive. Two of the bravest Flat Heads, lifting up their -muskets in the air, started off at full gallop to reconnoitre the enemy. -Already they had disappeared from our view, leaving us somewhat anxious, -but they soon returned, at the head of about ten [CLXXVI] strangers. -They were not the Black Feet, but a party of the Banac tribe, a species -of men half inimical and half friendly to the Flat Heads, who for that -very reason, as we shall see later, were more to be feared than open -enemies. When Michael joined us, the camp of these people was already -united with ours. Their chief and Michael knew each other but too well, -from having once been engaged in an affair in which Michael, finding -himself shamefully betrayed and attacked by a whole Banac village, had -only been able to save himself and six men, who accompanied him, by -killing the brother of the Banac chief, with eight of his people. They -nevertheless shook hands with each other, and separated the next day, -without appearing to entertain any unpleasant recollections. I had a -conversation with the Banac chief on the subject of prayer. He listened -attentively to what I told him, and promised to do amongst his people -what the Flat Heads did amongst theirs. The 30th, after having wound -through a mountain pass, to which we gave the name of the Fathers' -Defile, we advanced as far as a large plain, on the western verge of -which the Flat Heads were encamped. As we drew near, runners approached -us constantly. Already, Stiettiet Loodzo, surnamed the bravest of the -brave, and distinguished from the others by a large red ribbon, had -presented himself. Soon after, we perceived at a distance another -savage, of tall stature, hastening towards us with rapid strides. At the -same time, many cried out--"Paul," "Paul;" and indeed it was Paul, -surnamed "Big Face," the great chief of the nation; Paul, who, owing to -his virtue and his great age, had been baptized the preceding -year--Paul, whom they thought absent, but who had just arrived, as -though by God's special permission, that he might have the satisfaction -of presenting us himself to his [CLXXVII] people. At sun-set we were in -the midst of a most affecting scene. The Missionaries were surrounded by -their neophytes--men, women, young people, and children in their -mothers' arms, all anxious to be among the first to shake hands with us. -Every heart was moved. That evening was certainly beautiful. On the -feast of the holy name of Mary, the whole camp renewed the consecration -of themselves to their future Patroness, which had been previously made -by the vanguard of the first settlement. - -About the time the Church celebrates the feast of Mary's pure heart, it -seemed as though the God of the Christians wished to give to _her_ new -children the consolation of seeing the principal eras in their lives -coincide, and in some manner become identified with those happy days -consecrated especially to her honor. It was on the feast which the -Church celebrates in memory of her triumph, that we first met with the -Flat Heads; it will be on the 24th of September, also one of the -festivals, that we shall arrive on the borders of our little Paraguay, -and on the feast of the Holy Rosary we shall select a beautiful spot for -our first settlement, and call it by the holy name of Mary. It is again -remarkable that the nomination took place on another feast called the -Patrocinium, or Patronage of the Blessed Virgin; and thus, Mary, chosen -patroness of the settlement, was hailed for the first time on this spot -with the angelical salutation, accompanied by the ringing of bells. It -was a great consolation for us to speak of her goodness, in the presence -of the representatives of twenty-six different nations. I forgot to -mention that on the day we took possession of the Blessed Mary's new -demesne, we set up a large cross in the middle of the camp, a -circumstance rendered more striking, from having, as they assured me, -been predicted [CLXXVIII] by the young girl, called Mary, of whom I -spoke to you before. How much I wished that all those who take a sincere -interest in the progress of our holy religion, could have been present. -How their hearts would have glowed within them on beholding all the good -Flat Heads, from the great chief to the smallest child, piously coming -up to press their lips to the wood which was the instrument of the -world's salvation, and on their bended knees taking the solemn promise -of dying a thousand times rather than abandon prayer, (religion.) I -started the 28th October for Fort Colville, which is situated on the -Columbia river, to procure provisions.[247] Ours had become so scanty, -and we entertained such slight hopes of obtaining them, that we had -already thought of converting into fishermen the carpenters of our -settlement. In case of their not being successful, and thereby unable to -supply our wants, we intended accompanying the savages on their hunting -expeditions. Our only building as yet was a wooden house, without a -roof, and the winter had already set in. We began by recommending our -wants to God, and with God's assistance we found ourselves, on St. -Martin's day, in possession of a temporary chapel, large enough to -contain all the colony, with about one hundred of the Pierced Nose -tribe, whom curiosity had attracted to the neighborhood. Since that -period they have been so careful in avoiding sin, so exact in attending -our instructions, and the fruit of the divine word has been so visible -in our settlement, that on the 3d of December two hundred and two -catechumens were ranged in our chapel, waiting for baptism. This was -too beautiful an offering to St. Francis Xavier, apostle of the Indians, -not to excite the fury of man's great enemy.--Accordingly, for a few -days previously we encountered multiplied trials. To speak only of the -most visible, the prefect, [CLXXIX] interpreter and sexton fell sick. -The very eve of the great day the environs were laid waste by a sort of -hurricane--the church windows were broken, large trees were rooted up, -and three huts were thrown down; but these obstacles, far from -prejudicing the triumph of religion, served only to render it still more -striking. - -The catechumens having assembled in the chapel, which had been adorned -with its most beautiful ornaments, and where they had been conducted -for the more immediate preparations of their hearts prior to receiving -the great sacrament of baptism, were so struck by the imposing -appearance of the chapel, and the melodious sounds of the organ, now -heard for the first time in the wilderness, that they were not able to -express their admiration. The next day, with the exception of the time -the Fathers took for their dinner, they were in church from eight -o'clock in the morning until half past ten in the evening. How -delightful it was to listen to the intelligent answers of the good -savages to all the questions proposed to them. Never will those who -were present forget the pious spirit of their replies. The -rehabilitations of their marriages succeeded baptism, but not without -great sacrifices on their part, because, until that time, the poor -Indians had been ignorant of the unity and indissolubility of the -conjugal tie. We could not help admiring the mighty effects of the -sacrament of baptism in their souls. One poor husband hesitated as to -which of his wives he should select. The oldest of them, perceiving -his irresolution, said to him: "You know how much I love you, and I am -also certain that you love me, but you cherish another more; she is -younger than I am. Well, remain with her; leave me our children, and -in that manner we can all be baptized." I could cite many such traits. - -[CLXXX] I will here begin the narrative of my journey to Colville. On -the eve of my departure I informed the Flat Heads of my intentions. I -requested them to procure some horses, and a small escort, in case I -should meet with any of their enemies, the Black Feet. They brought to -me seventeen horses, the number I had asked them; and ten young and -brave warriors, who had already been often pierced with balls and -arrows in different skirmishes, presented themselves to accompany me -on my journey. With pleasure I bear testimony to their devotedness, -their child-like simplicity and docility, politeness, complaisance and -rare hilarity; but, above all, to their exemplary piety. - -These good Flat Heads endeavored in every manner to divine and -anticipate all my wants. On the afternoon of the 28th October, as I -have already said, we commenced our march, and encamped at a distance -of ten miles from St. Mary's. That day we met no one but a solitary -hunter, who was carrying a buck, the half of which he offered to us, -with great eagerness. This furnished us with an excellent supper, and -a good breakfast for the next morning. The 29th, snow fell in large -flakes, notwithstanding which we continued our march. We crossed, in -the course of the day, a fine stream, without a name--the same one -which the famous travellers, Lewis and Clarke, ascended in 1806, on -their way to the section of country occupied by the tribe of the -Pierced Noses, (or Sapetans.) I will call it the river of St. Francis -Borgia.[248] Six miles further south we crossed the beautiful river of -St. Ignatius. It enters the plain of the Bitter Root,--which we shall -henceforward call St. Mary's,--by a beautiful defile, commonly called, -by the mountaineers or Canadian hunters, the Devil's Gate;[249] for -what reason, however, I know not. These gentlemen have frequently on -their lips the words [CLXXXI] devil and hell; and it is perhaps on -this account that we heard so often these appellations. Be not then -alarmed when I tell you that I examined the Devil's pass, went through -the Devil's gate, rowed on Satan's stream, and jumped from the Devil's -horns. The "rake," one of the passes, the horns, and the stream, -really deserve names that express something horrible--all three are -exceedingly dangerous. The first and second, on account of the -innumerable snags which fill their beds, as there are entire forests -swallowed up by the river. The third pass of which I spoke, adds to -the difficulties of the others a current still stronger. A canoe -launched into this torrent flies over it with the speed of an arrow, -and the most experienced pilot trembles in spite of himself. Twice did -the brave Iroquois, who conducted our light canoe, exclaim: "Father, -we are lost;" but a loud cry of "courage--take courage, John, confide -in God, keep steady to the oar," saved us in that dangerous stream, -drew us out from between the horns and threatening teeth of this awful -"rake." But let us return to our account of the journey to Colville. -We spread our skins on the borders of a little river at the foot of a -high mountain, which we were to cross the next day, having traversed -St. Mary's valley, a distance of about forty miles. This valley is -from four to seven miles wide, and above two hundred long. It has but -one fine defile, already mentioned, and which serves as the entrance -to, and issue from, the valley. The mountains which terminate it on -both sides appear to be inaccessible; they are piles of jagged rocks, -the base of which presents nothing but fragments of the same -description, while the Norwegian pine grows on those that are covered -with earth, giving them a very sombre appearance, particularly in the -autumn, in which season the snow begins to fall. They abound in -[CLXXXII] bucks, buffalos, and sheep, whose wool is as white as snow, -and as fine as silk; also in all kinds of bears, wolves, panthers, -carcasiux,[250] tiger cats, wild cats, and whistlers, a species of -mountain rat. The moose is found here, but is very seldom caught, on -account of its extraordinary vigilance, for, on the slightest rustling -of a branch it leaves off eating, and will not return to its food for -a long time afterwards. The soil of the valley is, with some few -exceptions, very light; it contains, however, some good pastures. The -whole course of the river is well lined with trees; especially with -the pine, the fir, cotton, and willow trees. - -Amongst the most remarkable birds we distinguished the Nun's eagle, (so -called by travellers on account of the color of its head, which is -white, whilst the other parts of the body are black,) the black eagle, -buzzard, waterfowl, heron, crane, pheasant and quail. On the 30th we -ascended a gap in the mountain. The two sides were very lofty, and -studded with large pines, all the branches of which were covered with a -black and very fine moss, that hung in festoons, or in the shape of -mourning garlands, and added to the already funereal appearance of this -pass. We here filed off by a little path, scarce worthy however of the -name, for a distance of six miles. The road was filled with large blocks -of stone and trunks of trees, placed as if it were on purpose to render -the pass difficult and impracticable. The summit once attained, we -proceeded to cross a smiling little plain, called the Camash Prairies, -where the Flat Heads come every spring to dig up that nourishing root, -which, together with the game they are able to procure, forms their -chief nourishment. We very soon descended the mountain in a zigzag -direction, and reached a beautiful plain, which is watered by two -rivers, the St. [CLXXXIII] Aloysius and St. Stanislaus.[251] They unite -in this plain, whence they go to join the forks at Clark's, otherwise -called the Flat Head river. This valley extends about ten miles. I -perceived in this place one of those formidable Black Foot Indians in -the act of hiding himself. I did not speak of it to my young companions, -fearing that I might not be able to prevent a bloody struggle between -them. I however took the precaution of having a good watch kept over our -horses. The next day was Sunday, a day of rest. I celebrated the Holy -Sacrifice of the Mass, and baptized three little children of the Pointed -Hearts' tribe, whose parents had joined us on the road. The rest of the -day was spent in prayer and instructions. The chief of our band twice -addressed his companions, and spoke with much force and precision on the -different portions of our religion, which he already had heard -explained. The 1st of November--All Saints' Day--after having celebrated -the Holy Sacrifice under a large poplar tree, we proceeded on our -journey through a defile of about six miles. At the ford of the Great -Clark's Fork, we met two encampments of the Kalispel tribe, who, having -heard of our approach, had come thither to see us.[252] Men, women and -children, ran to meet us, and pressed our hands with every demonstration -of sincere joy. The chief of the first camp was called Chalax. I -baptized twenty-four children in his little village, and one young -woman, a Koetenaise, who was dying. The chief of the second camp was -named Hoytelpo; his band occupied thirty huts. I spent the night amongst -them; and, although they had never seen me before, they knew all the -prayers that I had taught the Flat Heads on my first journey. The fact -is, on hearing of my arrival in the mountains, they deputed an -intelligent young man to meet me, and who was also gifted with a good -[CLXXXIV] memory. Having learned the prayers and canticles, and such -points as were most essential for salvation, he repeated to the village -all that he had heard and seen. He had acquitted himself of his -commission so well, and with so much zeal, that he gave instructions to -his people during the course of the winter. The same desire for -information concerning religion, had communicated itself to the other -small camps, and with the same cheering success. It was, as you can -easily imagine, a great consolation for me to hear prayers addressed to -the great God, and his praises sung in a desert of about three hundred -miles extent, where a Catholic priest had never been before. They were -overjoyed when they heard that I hoped before long to be able to leave a -Missionary amongst them. I cannot pass over in silence, a beautiful -custom that is observed by these good people: Every evening, after -prayers, the chief instructs his people, or gives them some salutary -advice, to which they all listen with most profound attention, respect -and modesty. To see them at their devotions one would be more apt to -mistake them for perfectly religious men than savages. The next day, -before my departure, I baptised twenty-seven children of the tribe. On -that evening we alighted amongst fifteen huts of the same nation, who -received us with equal kindness.[253] Their chief had come several miles -to meet me. He acknowledged frankly that having become acquainted with -some American ministers, in the course of the summer--he had been told -by them that my prayer (religion) was not a good one. "My heart is -divided," said he, "and I do not know what to adhere to." I had no -trouble in making him understand the difference between those gentlemen -and priests, and the cause of their calumnious attacks against the only -true church of Christ, which their ancestors [CLXXXV] had abandoned. On -the 3d of November, after prayers and instructions to the savages, we -continued our march. We were on the borders of the Clarke Forks, to -which we were obliged to keep close during eight days, whilst we -descended the country bordering the stream. The river is at this place -of a greenish blue, very transparent, caused probably by the deposit of -a great quantity of oxigen of iron.[254] Our path during a great part of -the day was on the declivity of a lofty, rocky mountain; we were here -obliged to climb a steep rough pass from 400 to 600 feet high. I had -before seen landscapes of awful grandeur, but this one certainly -surpassed all others in horror. My courage failed at the first sight; it -was impossible to remain on horseback, and on foot my weight of two -hundred and eleven pounds, was no trifle. This, therefore, was the -expedient to which I resorted: My mule Lizette was sufficiently docile -and kind to allow me to grasp her tail, to which I held on firmly: -crying at one moment aloud, and at other times making use of the whip to -excite her courage, until the good beast conducted me safely to the very -top of the mountain.--There I breathed freely for awhile, and -contemplated the magnificent prospect that presented itself to my sight. - -The windings of the river with the scenery on its banks were before -me, on one side hung over our heads, rocks piled on rocks in the most -precipitous manner, and on the other stood lofty peaks crowned with -snow and pine trees: mountains of every shape and feature reared their -towering forms before us. It really was a fine view and one which was -well worth the effort we had made. On descending from this elevation I -had to take new precautions. I preceded the mule, holding her by the -bridle, while she moved cautiously down to the foot of the "Bad Rock," -(as it is called by the savages,) as though she feared stumbling -[CLXXXVI] and rolling with her master into the river which flowed -beneath us. At this place Clarke's Fork runs through a narrow defile -of rocky mountains; at times the soft murmurings of the waters charm -the traveller, at others it spreads out and presents a calm surface -clear as crystal. Wherever it is narrowed or intercepted by rocks it -forms rapids, with falls and cascades; the noise of which, like that -caused by a storm in the forest, is heard at a great distance. Nothing -can be more diversified than this fine river.[255] There is in this -vicinity a great variety of trees, bushes and different species of the -tamarisk tree. The lichnis, a medicinal plant mentioned by Charlevoix -in his history of Canada, grows here abundantly. We met in the course -of that day with only one family, and that was of the Kalispel tribe. -Whilst the women were rowing up the river their light canoe, made of -the fir tree bark, which contained their children and all the -baggage, the men followed along the bank with their rifles or bows in -their hands in pursuit of game. - -On the 4th we entered a cedar and pine forest so dense that in its -whole length we could scarcely see beyond the distance of twenty feet. -Our beasts of burden suffered a great deal in it from the want of -grass. We scarcely got through it after three day's march. It was a -real labyrinth; from morning till night we did nothing but wind about -to avoid thousands of trees, fallen either from fire, storms or age. -On issuing from this forest we were charmed by an interesting -prospect: Our view extended over the whole surface of the lake called -"Pends-d'oreilles," studded with small islands covered with woods: -over its inlets and the hills which overlook them, and which have for -the most part their base on the borders of the lake and rise by -gradual terraces or elevations until they reach the adjoining -mountains, which are covered with perpetual snow. The [CLXXXVII] lake -is about 30 miles long and from 4 to 7 wide.[256] At the head of it we -traversed a forest, which is certainly a wonder of its kind; there is -probably nothing similar to it in America. The savages speak of it as -the finest in Oregon, and really every tree which it contains is -enormous in its kind. The birch, elm and beech, generally small -elsewhere, like the toad of La Fontaine, that aimed at being as large -as the ox, swell out here to twice their size. They would fain rival -the cedar, the Goliath of the forest, who, however, looking down with -contempt upon his pitiful companions, - - "Eleve aux cieux - Son front audacieux." - - "Rears to heaven his audacious head." - -The birch and beech at its side, resemble large candelabras placed -around a massive column. Cedars, of four and five fathoms in -circumference, are here very common; we saw some six, and I measured -one forty-two feet in circumference. A cedar of four fathoms, lying on -the ground, measured more than two hundred feet in length.[257] The -delicate branches of these noble trees entwine themselves above the -beech and elm; their fine, dense and ever-green foliage, forming an -arch through which the sun's rays never penetrate; and this lofty -vault, supported by thousands of columns, brought to the mind's eye, -the idea of an immense, glorious temple, carpeted with the hardy -ever-greens that live and flourish best in the shade. - -Before entering the forest we crossed a high mountain by a wild -winding path. Its sides are covered with fine cedars and pines, which -are, however, of smaller dimensions than those in the forest. Several -times whilst ascending the mountain I found myself on parapets of -rocks, whence, thanks to my safe-footed mule, I retired in safety. -Once I [CLXXXVIII] thought my career at an end. I had wandered from my -companions, and following the path, I all at once came to a rocky -projection which terminated in a point about two feet wide; before me -was a perpendicular descent of three feet; on my left stood a rock as -straight as a wall, and on my right yawned a precipice of about a -thousand feet.--You can conceive that my situation was anything but -pleasant. The slightest false step would have plunged the mule and his -rider into the abyss beneath. To descend was impossible, as on one -side I was closed in by the rock, and suspended over a dreadful chasm -on the other. My mule had stopped at the commencement of the descent, -and not having any time to lose, I recommended myself to God, and as a -last expedient sunk my spurs deeply into the sides of my poor beast; -she made one bold leap and safely landed me on another parapet much -larger than that I had left. - -The history of the fine forest, and my leap from the dangerous rock, -will be treated with incredulity by many of your acquaintance. If so, -tell them that I invite them to visit both these places: "Venite et -videte." I promise them before hand that they will admire with me the -wonders of nature. They will have, like me, their moments of -admiration and of fear. I cannot pass over in silence the pleasant -meeting I had in the depth of the forest. I discovered a little hut of -rushes, situated on the banks of the river. Raising my voice to its -highest pitch, I tried to make its inhabitants hear me, but received -no answer. I felt an irresistible desire to visit it, and accordingly -made my interpreter accompany me. We found it occupied by a poor old -woman, who was blind, and very ill. I spoke to her of the Great -Spirit, of the most essential dogmas of our faith, and of baptism. The -example of the Apostle St. [CLXXXIX] Philip teaches us that there are -cases when all the requisite dispositions may entirely consist in an -act of faith, and in the sincere desire to enter Heaven by the right -path. All the answers of the poor old woman were respectful, and -breathing the love of God. "Yes," she would say, "I love the Great -Spirit with my whole heart; all my life he has been very kind to me. -Yes, I wish to be His child, I want to be His forever." And -immediately she fell on her knees, and begged me to give her baptism. -I named her Mary, and placed around her neck the miraculous medal of -the Blessed Virgin. After leaving her, I overheard her thanking God -for this fortunate adventure. I had scarcely regained the path, when I -met her husband, almost bent to the earth by age and infirmity; he -could hardly drag himself along. He had been setting a trap in the -forest for the bucks. The Flat Heads who had preceded me, had told him -of my arrival. As soon, therefore, as he perceived me, he began to cry -out, with a trembling voice: "Oh how delighted I am to see our Father -before I die. The Great Spirit is good--oh how happy my heart is." And -the venerable old man pressed my hand most affectionately, repeating -again and again the same expressions. Tears fell from my eyes on -witnessing such affection. I told him that I had just left his hut, -and had baptized his wife. "I heard," said he, "of your arrival in our -mountains, and of your baptizing many of our people. I am poor and -old; I had hardly dared to hope for the happiness of seeing you. -Black-gown, make me as happy as you have made my wife. I wish also to -belong to God, and we will always love Him." I conducted him to the -borders of a stream that flowed near us, and after a brief -instruction, I administered to him the Holy Sacrament of Baptism, -naming him Simon. On seeing me depart, he repeated, impressively: -[CXC] "Oh how good is the Great Spirit. I thank you, Skylax, -(Black-gown) for the favor you have conferred on me. Oh how happy is -my heart. Yes, I will always love the Great Spirit. Oh how good the -Great Spirit is; how good He is." During that same journey, I -discovered in a little hut of bulrushes, five old men, who appeared to -be fourscore years old. Three of them were blind, and the other two -had but one eye each; they were almost naked, and offered a real -personification of human misery. I spoke to them for a considerable -time on the means of salvation, and on the bliss of another world. -Their answers edified me much, and affected me even to tears; they -were replete with the love of God, a desire of doing right, and of -dying well. You might have heard these good old men crying out from -different parts of the hut, forming together a touching chorus, to -which I sincerely wished that all the children of St. Ignatius could -have listened. "Oh Great Spirit, what a happiness is coming to us in -our old days! We will love you, O Great Spirit. _Le-mele -Kaikolinzoeten; one le-mele eltelill._ We will love you, O Great -Spirit. Yes, we will love you until death." When we explained to them -the necessity of baptism, they demanded it earnestly, and knelt down -to receive it. I have not found as yet amongst these Indians, I will -not say opposition, but not even coldness or indifference. These -little adventures are our great consolation. I would not have -exchanged my situation, at that moment, for any other on earth. I was -convinced that such incidents alone were worth a journey to the -mountains. Ah, good and dear Fathers, who may read these lines, I -conjure you, through the mercy of our Divine Redeemer, not to hesitate -entering this vineyard; its harvest is ripe and abundant. Does not our -Saviour tell us: "Ignem veni mittere in terram et quid volo nisi ut -accendatur." [CXCI] It is amidst the poor tribes of these isolated -mountains that the fire of divine grace burns with ardor. -Superstitious practices have disappeared; nor have they amongst them -the castes of East India. Speak to these Savages of heavenly things; -at once their hearts are inflamed with divine love; and immediately -they go seriously about the great affair of their salvation. Day and -night they are at our sides, insatiable for the "Bread of Life." -Often, on retiring, we hear them say, "Our sins, no doubt, rendered us -so long unworthy to hear these consoling words." As to privations and -dangers, the Oregon Missionaries must expect them, for they will -certainly meet them, but in a good cause. Sometimes they will be -obliged to fast, but a better appetite will be their reward. Their -escapes from the many dangers of the road, or from enemies always on -the alert, teach them to confide in God alone, and ever to keep their -accounts in order. I here feel the full application of that consoling -text of the Scripture: "My yoke is sweet, and my burden is light." At -the last day it will be manifest that the holy name of Jesus has -performed wonders amongst these poor people. Their eagerness to hear -the glad tidings of salvation is certainly at its height. They came -from all parts, and from great distances, to meet me on my way, and -presented all their young children and dying relatives for baptism. -Many followed me for whole days, with the sole desire of receiving -instructions. Really our hearts bled at the sight of so many souls who -are lost for the want of religion's divine and saving assistance. Here -again may we cry out with the Scripture: "The harvest indeed is great, -but the laborers are few." What Father is there in the Society whose -zeal will not be enkindled on hearing these details? And where is the -Christian who would refuse his mite to such [CXCII] a work as that of -the "Propagation of the Faith?" that precious pearl of the Church, -which procures salvation to so many souls, who otherwise would perish -unaided and forever. During my journey, which lasted forty-two days, I -baptized 190 persons, of whom 26 were adults, sick, or in extreme old -age; I preached to more than two thousand Indians; who thus evidently -conducted into my way by Providence, will not, I trust, tarry long in -ranging themselves under the banner of Jesus Christ. With the -assistance of my catechists, the Flat Heads, who were as yet but -catechumens, the conversion of the Kalispel tribe was so far advanced -that when the time came round for the winter's hunting, the Rev. -Father Point enjoyed the consolation of seeing them join the Flat Head -tribe, with the sole desire of profiting by the Missionary's presence. -This gave him an opportunity to instruct and baptise a great number on -the Purification and on the Feasts of the Canonization of St. Ignatius -and St. Francis Xavier. On my return, the 8th of December,[258] I -continued instructing those of the Flat Heads who had not been -baptized. On Christmas day I added 150 new baptisms to those of the 3d -of December, and 32 rehabilitations of marriage; so that the Flat -Heads, some sooner and others later, but all, with very few -exceptions, had, in the space of three months, complied with every -thing necessary to merit the glorious title of true children of God. -Accordingly on Christmas eve, a few hours before the midnight Mass, -the village of St. Mary was deemed worthy of a special mark of -heaven's favour: The Blessed Virgin appeared to a little orphan boy -named Paul, in the hut of an aged and truly pious woman.--The youth, -piety and sincerity of this child, joined to the nature of the fact -which he related, forbade us to doubt the truth of his statement. The -following is what he recounted [CXCIII] to me with his own innocent -lips: "Upon entering John's hut, whither I had gone to learn my -prayers, which I did not know, I saw some one who was very -beautiful--her feet did not touch the earth, her garments were as -white as snow; she had a star over her head, a serpent under her feet; -and near the serpent was a fruit which I did not recognise. I could -see her heart, from which rays of light burst forth and shone upon me. -When I first beheld all this I was frightened, but afterwards my fear -left me; my heart was warmed, my mind clear, and I do not know how it -happened, but all at once I knew my prayers." (To be brief I omit -several circumstances.) He ended his account by saying that several -times the same person had appeared to him whilst he was sleeping; and -that once she had told him she was pleased, that the first village of -the Flat Heads should be called "St. Mary." The child had never seen -or heard before any thing of the kind; he did not even know if the -person was a man or woman, because the appearance of the dress which -she wore was entirely unknown to him. Several persons having -interrogated the child on this subject, have found him unvarying in -his answers. He continues by his conduct to be the angel of his tribe. - -[Illustration: Apparition] - -On the 23d of December, Father Point, at the head of the inhabitants -of forty lodges, started for the buffalo hunt.--On the road they met -with huntsmen of five or six different tribes, some of whom followed -him to the termination of the chase, from the desire of learning their -prayers. The Flat Heads having prolonged their stay at St. Mary's as -long as they possibly could, so as not to depart without receiving -baptism, experienced such a famine, the first weeks of January, that -their poor dogs, having not even a bone to gnaw, devoured the very -straps of leather with which they tied their horses during the night. -The cold moreover was [CXCIV] so uninterruptedly severe that during -the hunting season, which lasted three months, such a quantity of snow -fell that many were attacked with a painful blindness, vulgarly called -"snow disease." One day when the wind was very high, and the snow -falling and freezing harder than usual, Father Point became suddenly -very pale, and would no doubt have been frozen to death, in the midst -of the plain, had not some travellers, perceiving the change in his -countenance, kindled a large fire. But neither the wind, ice, or -famine, prevented the zealous Flat Heads from performing on this -journey all they were accustomed to do at St. Mary's. Every morning -and evening they assembled around the Missionary's lodge, and more -than three-fourths of them without any shelter than the sky, after -having recited their prayers, listened to an instruction, preceded and -followed by hymns. At day-break and sunset the bell was tolled three -times for the Angelical Salutation. The Sunday was religiously kept; -an observance which was so acceptable to God, that once especially it -was recompensed in a very visible manner. The following is what I read -in the Journal kept by Father Point during the winter's hunt. - -_Sixth February._--To-day, Sunday, a very high wind, the sky greyish, -and the thermometer at the freezing point; no grass for the horses; the -buffalos driven off by the Pierced Noses. The 7th, the cold more -piercing--food for our horses still scarcer--the snow increasing; but -yesterday was a time of perfect rest, and the fruits of it show -themselves to-day in perfect resignation and confidence. At noon we -reached the summit of a mountain, and what a change awaits us. The sun -shines, the cold has lost its intensity; we have in view an immense -plain, and in that plain good pasturages, which are clouded with -buffalos. The encampment stops, the hunters assemble, and before [CXCV] -sunset 155 buffalos have fallen by their arrows. One must confess that -if this hunt were _not_ miraculous, it bears a great resemblance to the -draught of fishes made by Peter when casting his net at the word of the -Lord, he drew up 153 fishes.--St. John, xxi. 11. The Flat Heads confided -in the Lord, and were equally successful in killing 153 buffalos. What a -fine draught of fishes! but what a glorious hunt of buffalos! Represent -to yourself an immense amphitheatre of mountains, the least of which -exceeds in height Mont Martre,[259] and in the midst of this majestic -enclosure a plain more extensive than that of Paris, and on this -magnificent plain a multitude of animals, the least of which surpasses -in size the largest ox in Europe. Such was the park in which our Indians -hunted. Wishing to pursue them, continues Father Point, in his journal, -I urged on my horse to a herd of fugitives, and as he was fresh, I had -no difficulty in getting up to them. I even succeeded in compelling the -foremost to abandon his post, but enraged, he stopped short, and -presented such a terrible front, that I thought it more prudent to open -a passage and let him escape. I acted wisely, as on the same day, one of -these animals, in his fall, overturned a horse and his rider. -Fortunately, however, the latter was more dexterous than I should have -been in such a perilous situation; he aimed his blows so promptly and -well, that of the three who were thrown, only two arose. On another -occasion, a hunter who had been also dismounted, had no other means to -avoid being torn to pieces than to seize hold of the animal by the horns -just at the time he was about to trample him to death. A third hunter, -fleeing at all speed, felt himself stopped by the plaited tail of his -horse hooked on the buffalo's horn; but both fearing a trap, made every -effort to disengage themselves. The buffalo hunt is attended with -[CXCVI] dangers, but the greatest of these does not consist in the mere -pursuit of the animal, but proceeds rather from the bands of Black Feet -who constantly lurk in these regions, especially when there is some -prospect of meeting with the larger game, or stealing a number of -horses. Of all the mountain savages the Black Feet are the most -numerous, wicked, and the greatest thieves. Happily, however, from -having been often beaten by the smaller tribes, they have become so -dastardly, that unless they are twenty to one, they confine their -attacks to the horses, which, thanks to the carelessness of their -courageous enemies, they go about with so much dexterity and success, -that this year, while our good Flat Heads were asleep, they discovered -their animals as often as twenty times, and carried off more than one -hundred of them. During the winter, about twenty of these gentlemen -visited the Flat Heads in the day time, and without stealing any thing, -but in this manner. There resided in the camp an old chief of the Black -Feet tribe, who had been baptised on Christmas day, and named Nicholas; -this good savage, knowing that the Missionary would willingly hold an -interview with his brethren, undertook himself to harangue them during -the night, and so well did he acquit himself, that upon the calumet's -being planted on the limits of the camp, and the messenger being -admitted to an audience, singing was heard in the neighboring mountains, -and soon after a band of these brigands issued, armed as warriors, from -the gloomy defile. They were received as friends, and four of the -principals were ushered into the Missionary's lodge; they smoked the -calumet and discussed the news of the day. The Missionary spoke of the -necessity of prayer, to which subject they listened most attentively; -nor did they manifest either surprise or repugnance. They told him that -there had arrived [CXCVII] recently in one of their forests a man who -was not married, and who wore on his breast a large crucifix, read every -day in a big book, and made the sign of the cross before eating any -thing; and in fine, that he was dressed exactly like the Black-gowns at -St. Mary's. The Father did every thing in his power to gain their good -will--after which, they were conducted to the best lodge in the -encampment. It certainly would seem that such hosts were worthy of -better guests. However, towards the middle of the night, the explosion -of fire arms was heard. It was soon discovered that a Flat Head was -firing at a Black Foot, just as the latter was leaving the camp, taking -with him four horses.--Fortunately, the robber was not one of the band -that had been received within the encampment, which, upon being proved, -far from creating any suspicion, on the contrary, had the effect of -their kindly offering them a grave for the unfortunate man. But whether -they wished to appear to disapprove of the deed, or that they -anticipated dangers from reprisals, they left the wolves to bury the -body, and took their departure. Good Nicholas, the orator, joined them, -in order to render the same services to the others that he had to these. -He went off, promising to return soon with the evidences of his success. -He has not been seen as yet, but we are informed, he and his companions -have spoken so favorably of prayer, and the Black-gowns, that already -the Sunday is religiously observed in the camp where Nicholas resides, -and that a great chief, with the people of sixty lodges, intend shortly -to make our acquaintance, and attach themselves to the Flat Heads. In -the meanwhile, divine justice is punishing rigorously a number of their -robbers. This year, the Pierced Noses caught twelve of them in flagrant -faults, and killed them. About the time that the Black Foot above -mentioned met his fate at [CXCVIII] the hands of a Flat Head, thirty -others Were receiving the reward due to their crimes, from the -Pends-d'oreilles tribe. A very remarkable fact in this last encounter -is, that of the four who commenced, and the others who finished it, not -one fell; although, in order to break in on the delinquents, who were -retrenched behind a kind of rampart, they were obliged to expose -themselves to a brisk fire. I saw the field of combat some time -afterwards. Of the thirty robbers who had been slain, only five or six -heads remained, and those so disfigured as to lead one to think that an -age had already elapsed since their death. - -Two years before, the same tribe, (Pends-d'oreilles) assisted by the -Flat Heads, making in all a band of seventy men, stood an attack of -fifteen hundred Black Feet, whom they defeated, killing in five days, -during which time the battle lasted, fifty of their foes, without -losing a single man on their side. They would not commence the attack -until they had recited their prayers on their knees. A few days ago, -the spot was pointed out to me where six Flat Heads withstood 160 -Black Feet with so much resolution, that with a handful of their men -who came to their aid, they gained the victory. The most perfidious -nation, after the Black Feet, is the Banac tribe; they also bear the -Flat Heads much ill will. It has happened more than once that at the -very moment the Banac tribe were receiving the greatest proofs of -friendship from the Flat Heads, the former were plotting their ruin. -Of this you have already had one proof, but here is another. One day a -detachment of two hundred Banacs visited the camp of the Flat Heads, -and after smoking with them returned to their encampment. The small -number of the Flat Heads had not, however, escaped their notice, and -they determined to take advantage of their apparent weakness. -Accordingly, they [CXCIX] retraced their steps that very night to -execute their base designs. But the chief, named Michael, having been -advised of their intention, assembled in haste his twenty warriors, -and after entreating them to confide in God, he rushed on these -traitors so happily and vigorously, that at the first shock they were -routed. Already nine of the fugitives had fallen, and most of the -others would have shared the same fate if Michael, in the very heat of -the pursuit, had not recollected that it was Sunday, and on that -account stopped his brave companions, saying: "My friends, it is now -the time for prayer; we must retire to our camp." It is by these and -similar exploits, wherein the finger of God is visible, that the Flat -Heads have acquired such a reputation for valor, that notwithstanding -their inferior numbers, they are feared much more than they on their -side dread their bitterest enemies. These victories however cannot but -be fatal even to the conquerors; hence we will strive to inspire all -with the love of peace, which may be accomplished if each party -remains at home. For this purpose we must create among them a greater -taste for agriculture than for hunting. But how can we compass this -unless the same measures are employed for the missions of the Rocky -Mountains that were so happily adopted for Paraguay. If the true -friends of Religion only knew of what the Indians who surround us are -capable when once converted, I can not doubt but that they would -assist us in our efforts to accomplish so beautiful, so advantageous a -project. It is, moreover, through the Iroquois of the North, whose -cruelty formerly exceeded that of the Black Feet, that the knowledge -of the true God came to the Flat Heads, and awakened amongst them the -desire of possessing the Black-gowns. We have seen to what dangers the -good Flat Heads exposed themselves to obtain Missionaries, [CC] and -what sacrifices they have made to merit the title of children of God; -and now what is their actual progress? In their village, enmities, -quarrels and calumnies, are unknown; they are sincere and upright -amongst themselves, and full of confidence in their Missionaries. They -carry this to such a degree that they place implicit reliance on their -veracity, and cannot suppose that they have any thing else in view but -their happiness; they have no difficulty in believing the mysteries of -our faith, or in approaching the tribunal of penance: difficulties -which appear insurmountable to the pride and cowardice of many -civilized Christians. The first time they were asked if they believed -firmly in all that was contained in the Apostles' creed, they -answered, "Yes--very much." When they were spoken to about confession, -some wished it to be public.--This will explain to you how it -happened that before we resided three months amongst them we were -enabled to baptize all the adults, and four months later to admit a -large number to frequent communion. There are whole families who never -let a Sunday go by without approaching the holy table. Often twenty -confessions are heard consecutively without their being matter for -absolution. This year we performed the devotion of the month of Mary, -and I can flatter myself that the exercises were attended with as much -piety and edification as in the most devout parishes of Europe. At the -end of the month a statue was borne in triumph to the very place where -our Blessed Mother designed to honor us with the aforementioned -apparition.--Since that day a sort of pilgrimage has been established -there, under the name of "Our Lady of Prayer." None pass the pious -monument without stopping to pray on their knees; the more devout come -regularly twice a day to speak to their Mother and her divine Son, and -the children [CCI] add to their prayers the most beautiful flowers -they can cull in the prairies. - -On the Feast of the Sacred Heart we made use of this monument, -decorated with garlands of flowers, as a repository, and our people -received for the first time, the benediction of the blessed sacrament; -a happiness which they now enjoy every Sunday after vespers. Some of -them already understand the nature of the devotion of the Sacred -Heart. To propagate it we have laid the foundations of several -societies, of which all the most virtuous men, women and young people -have become members. Victor, the great chief, is prefect of one of -these associations, and Agnes his wife is president of another. They -were not elected through any deference for their dignity or birth, but -solely on account of their great personal merits.[260] A fact which -proves that the _Flat Heads_ regard merit more than rank, is, that the -place of great chief becoming vacant by the death of Peter, they chose -for his successor the chief of the men's society, and for no other -reason did he obtain this high dignity than for the noble qualities, -both of heart and head, which they all thought he possessed. Every -night and morning, when all is quiet in the camp, he harangues the -people; the subject of his discourse being principally a repetition of -what the Black Gowns have said before. This good chief walks -faithfully in the footsteps of his predecessor, which is no slight -praise. This last, who was baptized at the age of 80, and admitted to -communion in his 82d year, was the first to deserve this double -favour, more on account of his virtue than his years. The day of his -baptism he said to me, "If during my life I have committed faults they -were those of ignorance; it appears to me that I never did any thing, -knowing it to be wrong." At the time of his first communion, which -preceded his death but [CCII] a few days, having been asked if he had -not some faults with which to reproach himself since his -baptism--"Faults," he replied, with surprise, "how could I ever commit -any, I whose duty it is to teach others how to do good?" He was buried -in the red drapery he was accustomed to hang out on Sunday to announce -that it was the day of the Lord. Alphonsus, in the prime of youth, -soon followed him. He said to me on the day of his baptism: "I dread -so much offending again the Great Spirit, that I beg of him to grant -me the grace to die soon." He fell sick a few days afterwards and -expired with the most Christian dispositions, thanking God for having -granted his prayer. In the hope of their glorious resurrection, their -mortal remains have been deposited at the foot of the large cross. - -Of twenty persons who died within the year, we have no reason to fear -for the salvation of one. - -Not having been able this year to obtain either provisions or -sufficient clothes to supply the wants of our mission, I started for -Fort Vancouver, the great mart of the honorable Hudson Bay Company, -and distant about one thousand miles from our establishment. The -continuation of this narrative will show you that this necessary -journey was providential. I found myself during this trip a second -time amongst the Kalispel tribe. - -They continue with much fervour to assemble every morning and evening to -recite prayers in common, and manifest the same attention and assiduity -in listening to our instructions. The chiefs on their side are incessant -in exhorting the people to the practice of every good work. The two -principal obstacles that prevent a great number from receiving baptism, -are--first, the plurality of wives; many have not the courage to -separate themselves from those, by whom they have children. The second -is their [CCIII] fondness for gambling, in which they risk every thing. -I baptized 60 adults amongst them during this last journey. - -Crossing a beautiful plain near the Clarke or Flat Head river, called -the Horse prairie, I heard that there were 30 lodges of the Skalzy or -Kœtenay tribe, at about two day's journey from us.[261] I determined -whilst awaiting the descent of the skiff, which could only start six -days later, to pay them a visit, for they had never seen a priest in -their lands before. Two half breeds served as my guides and escorts on -this occasion. We gallopped and trotted all the day, travelling a -distance of 60 miles. We spent a quiet night in a deep defile, -stretched near a good fire, but in the open air. The next day, (April -14) after having traversed several mountains and valleys, where our -horses were up to their knees in snow, we arrived about 3 o'clock in -sight of the Kœtenay camp. They assembled immediately on my approach; -when I was about twenty yards from them, the warriors presented their -arms, which they had hidden until then under their buffalo robes. They -fired a general salute which frightened my mule and made her rear and -prance to the great amusement of the savages. They then defiled before -me, giving their hands in token of friendship and congratulation. I -observed that each one lifted his hand to his forehead after having -presented it to me. I soon convoked the council in order to inform -them of the object of my visit. They unanimously declared themselves -in favour of my religion, and adopted the beautiful custom of their -neighbours, the Flat Heads, to meet night and morning for prayers in -common. I assembled them that very evening for this object and gave -them a long instruction on the principal dogmas of our faith. The next -day, I baptized all their little children and nine of their adults, -previously instructed, amongst whom was the wife of an Iroquois, -[CCIV] who had resided for thirty years with this tribe. The Iroquois -and a Canadian occupy themselves in the absence of a priest in -instructing them. My visit could not be long. I left the Kœtenay -village about 12 o'clock, accompanied by twelve of these warriors and -some half-blood Crees, whom I had baptized in 1840. They wished to -escort me to the entrance of the large Flat Head lake,[262] with the -desire of giving me a farewell feast; a real banquet of all the good -things their country produced. The warriors had gone on ahead and -dispersed in every direction, some to hunt and others to fish. The -latter only succeeded in catching a single trout. The warriors -returned in the evening with a bear, goose, and six swan's eggs. "Sed -quid hoc inter tantos." The fish and goose were roasted before a good -fire, and the whole mess was soon presented to me. Most of my -companions preferring to fast, I expressed my regret at it, consoling -them however by telling them that God would certainly reward their -kindness to me. A moment after we heard the last hunter returning, -whom we thought had gone back to the camp. Hope shone on every -countenance. The warrior soon appeared laden with a large elk, and -hunger that night was banished from the camp. Each one began to occupy -himself; some cut up the animal, others heaped fuel on the fire, and -prepared sticks and spits to roast the meat. The feast which had -commenced under such poor auspices continued a great part of the -night. The whole animal, excepting a small piece that was reserved for -my breakfast, had disappeared before they retired to sleep. This is a -sample of savage life. The Indian when he has nothing to eat does not -complain, but in the midst of abundance he knows no moderation. The -stomach of a savage has always been to me a riddle. - -The plain that commands a view of the lake is one of the [CCV] most -fertile in the mountainous regions. The Flat Head river runs through -it and extends more than 200 miles to the North East. It is wide and -deep, abounding with fish and lined with wood, principally with the -cotton, aspen, pine and birch. There are beautiful sites for villages, -but the vicinity of the Black Feet must delay for a long while the -good work, as they are only at two day's march from the great district -occupied by these brigands, from whence they often issue to pay their -neighbours predatory visits. A second obstacle would be the great -distance from any post of the Hudson Bay Company; consequently the -difficulty of procuring what is strictly necessary. The lake is highly -romantic, and is from 40 to 50 miles long. Mountainous and rocky -islands of all sizes are scattered over its bosom, which present an -enchanting prospect. These islands are filled with wild horses. Lofty -mountains surround the lake and rise from its very brink. - -On the 16th of April, after bidding adieu to my travelling companions, -I started early in the morning, accompanied by two Canadians and two -savages. That evening we encamped close to a delightful spring, which -was warm and sulphurous;[263] having travelled a distance of about -fifty miles. When the savages reach this spring they generally bathe -in it. They told me that after the fatigues of a long journey they -find that bathing in this water greatly refreshes them. I found here -ten lodges of the Kalispel tribe; the chief, who was by birth of the -Pierced Nose tribe, invited me to spend the night in his wigwam, where -he treated me most hospitably. This was the only small Kalispel camp -that I had as yet met in my journeys. I here established, as I have -done wherever I stopped, the custom of morning and evening prayers. -During the evening the chief who had looked very gloomy, made a public -exposition of [CCVI] his whole life. "Black Gown," said he, "you find -yourself in the lodge of a most wicked and unhappy man; all the evil -that a man could do on earth, I believe I have been guilty of: I have -even assassinated several of my near relations; since then, there is -nought in my heart but trouble, bitterness and remorse. Why does not -the Great Spirit annihilate me? I still possess life, but there will -be neither pardon nor mercy for me after death." These words and the -feeling manner with which they were addressed to me drew tears of -compassion from my eyes. "Poor, unfortunate man," I replied, "you are -really to be pitied, but you increase your misery by thinking that you -cannot obtain pardon. The devil, man's evil spirit, is the author of -this bad thought. Do not listen to him, for he would wish to -precipitate you into that bad place (hell). The Great Spirit who -created you is a Father infinitely good and merciful. He does not -desire the death of the sinner, but rather that he should be converted -and live. He receives us into his favour and forgets our crimes, -notwithstanding their number and enormity, the moment we return to Him -contrite and repentant. He will also forgive you if you walk in the -path which His only Son, Jesus Christ, came on earth to trace for us." -I then recounted the instance of the good thief and the parable of the -prodigal son. I made him sensible of the proof of God's goodness in -sending me to him. I added that perhaps his life was drawing to a -close, and that he might be in danger of falling into the bad place on -account of his sins; that I would show him the right path, which if he -followed he would certainly reach Heaven. These few words were as balm -poured on his wounded spirit. He became calmer, and joy and hope -appeared on his countenance. "Black Gown," said he, "your words -re-animate me: I see, I understand better now, you have [CCVII] -consoled me, you have relieved me from a burden that was crushing me -with its weight, for I thought myself lost. I will follow your -directions; I will learn how to pray. Yes, I feel convinced that the -Great Spirit will have pity on me." There was fortunately in the camp -a young man who knew all the prayers, and was willing to serve as his -catechist. His baptism was deferred until the autumn or winter. - -The results of my visit to the Pointed Hearts were very consoling. -They form a small but interesting tribe, animated with much fervour. - -As soon as they were certain of my visit, they deputed couriers in -every direction to inform the savages of the approach of the -Black-gown; and all, without exception, assembled at the outlet of the -great lake which bears their name, and which was the place I had -indicated.[264] An ingenuous joy, joined to wonder and contentment, -shone on every face when they saw me arrive in the midst of them. -Every one hastened to greet me. It was the first visit of the kind -they had received, and the following is the order they observed. Their -chiefs and old men marched at the head; next came the young men and -boys; then followed the women--mothers, young girls, and little -children. I was conducted in triumph by this multitude to the lodge of -the great chief. Here, as every where else in the Indian country, the -everlasting calumet was first produced, which went round two or three -times in the most profound silence. The chief then addressed me, -saying: "Black-gown you are most welcome amongst us. We thank you for -your charity towards us. For a long time we have wished to see you, -and hear the words which will give us understanding. Our fathers -invoked the sun and earth. I recollect very well when the knowledge -of the true and one God came amongst them; since which time we have -offered [CCVIII] to Him our prayers and vows. We are however to be -pitied. We do not know the word of the Great Spirit. All is darkness -as yet to us, but to-day I hope we shall see the light shine. Speak, -Black-gown, I have done--every one is anxious to hear you." I spoke to -them for two hours on salvation and end of man's creation, and not one -person stirred from his place the whole time of the instruction. As it -was almost sunset, I recited the prayers that I had translated into -their language a few days before. After which I took some -refreshments, consisting of fragments of dried meat, and a piece of -cooked moss, tasting like soap, and as black as pitch. All this -however was as grateful to my palate as though it had been honey and -sugar, not having eaten a mouthful since day-break. At their own -request I then continued instructing the chiefs and their people until -the night was far advanced. About every half hour I paused, and then -the pipes would pass around to refresh the listeners and give time for -reflection. It was during these intervals that the chiefs conversed on -what they had heard, and instructed and advised their followers. On -awakening the next morning, I was surprised to find my lodge already -filled with people. They had entered so quietly that I had not heard -them. It was hardly day-break when I arose, and they all following my -example, placed themselves on their knees, and we made together the -offering of our hearts to God, with that of the actions of the day. -After this the Chief said: "Black-gown, we come here very early to -observe you--we wish to imitate what you do. Your prayer is good; we -wish to adopt it. But you will leave us after two nights more, and we -have no one to teach us in your absence." I had the bell rung for -morning prayers, promising him at the same time that the prayers -should be known before I left them. [CCIX] After a long instruction -on the most important truths of religion, I collected around me all -the little children, with the young boys and girls; I chose two from -among the latter, to whom I taught the Hail Mary, assigning to each -one his own particular part; then seven for the Our Father; ten others -for the Commandments, and twelve for the Apostles' Creed. This method, -which was my first trial of it, succeeded admirably. I repeated to -each one his part until he knew it perfectly; I then made him repeat -it five or six times. These little Indians, forming a triangle, -resembled a choir of angels, and recited their prayers, to the great -astonishment and satisfaction of the savages. They continued in this -manner morning and night, until one of the chiefs learned all the -prayers, which he then repeated in public. I spent three days in -instructing them. I would have remained longer, but the savages were -without provisions. There was scarcely enough for one person in the -whole camp. My own provisions were nearly out, and I was still four -days' journey from Fort Colville. The second day of my stay among -them, I baptized all their small children, and then twenty-four -adults, who were infirm and very old. It appeared as though God had -retained these good old people on earth to grant them the -inexpressible happiness of receiving the sacrament of baptism before -their death. They seemed by their transports of joy and gratitude at -this moment, to express that sentiment of the Scripture: "My soul is -ready, O God, my soul is ready." Never did I experience in my visits -to the savages so much satisfaction as on this occasion, not even when -I visited the Flat Heads in 1840; nor have I elsewhere seen more -convincing proofs of sincere conversion to God. May He grant them to -persevere in their virtuous resolutions. Rev. Father Point intends -passing the winter [CCX] with them to confirm them in their -faith.[265] After some advice and salutary regulations, I left this -interesting colony, and I must acknowledge, with heartfelt regret. The -great chief allowed himself scarcely a moment's repose for three -nights I spent amongst them; he would rise from time to time to -harangue the people, and repeat to them all he was able to remember of -the instructions of the day. During the whole time of my mission, he -continued at my side, so anxious was he not to lose a single word. The -old chief, now in his eightieth year, was baptized by the name of -Jesse. In the spring the territory of this tribe enchants the -traveller who may happen to traverse it. It is so diversified with -noble plains, and enamelled with flowers, whose various forms and -colors offer to experienced botanists an interesting _parterre_. These -plains are surrounded by magnificent forests of pine, fir and cedar. -To the west their country is open, and the view extends over several -days' journey. To the south, east and north, you see towering -mountains, ridge rising above ridge, robed with snow, and mingling -their summits with the clouds, from which, at a distance, you can -hardly distinguish them. The lake forms a striking feature in this -beautiful prospect, and is about thirty miles in circumference. It is -deep, and abounds in fish, particularly in salmon trout, common trout, -carp, and a small, oily fish, very delicious, and tasting like the -smelt. The Spokan river rises in the lake, and crosses the whole plain -of the Cœur d'Alènes. The valley that borders above the lake is from -four to five miles wide, exceedingly fertile, and the soil from ten to -fifteen feet deep. Every spring, at the melting of the snow, it is -subject to inundations, which scarcely ever last longer than four or -five days; at the same time augmenting, as in Egypt, the fertility of -the soil. The potatoe grows here very well, and in great abundance. -[CCXI] The Spokan river is wide, swift and deep in the spring, and -contains, like all the rivers of Oregon, many rapid falls and -cascades.[266] The navigation of the waters of this immense territory -is generally dangerous, and few risk themselves on them without being -accompanied by experienced pilots. In descending Clark's river, we -passed by some truly perilous and remarkable places, where the pilots -have full opportunity to exhibit their dexterity and prudence. The -rapids are numerous, and the roar of the waters incessant, the current -sweeping on at the rate of ten or twelve miles an hour; the rugged -banks and projecting rocks creating waves resembling those of the -troubled sea. The skilful pilot mounts the waves, which seem ready to -engulf us, the canoe speeds over the agitated waters, and with the aid -of the paddle, skilfully plied, bears us unharmed through numberless -dangers. The most remarkable spot on this river is called the -_cabinets_; it consists of four apartments, which you have hardly time -to examine, as you are scarcely half a minute passing by them.[267] -Represent to yourself chasms between two rocky mountains of a -stupendous height, the river pent in between them in a bed of thirty -or forty feet, precipitating itself down its rocky channel with -irresistible fury, roaring against its jagged sides, and whitening -with foam all around it. In a short space it winds in four different -directions, resembling very much, forked lightning. It requires very -great skill, activity, and presence of mind, to extricate yourself -from this difficult pass. The Spokan lands are sandy, gravelly, and -badly calculated for agriculture. The section over which I travelled -consisted of immense plains of light, dry, and sandy soil, and thin -forests of gum pines. We saw nothing in this noiseless solitude but a -buck, running quickly from us, and disappearing [CCXII] almost -immediately. From time to time, the melancholy and piercing cry of the -wood snipe increased the gloomy thoughts which this sad spot -occasioned. Here, on a gay and smiling little plain, two ministers -have settled themselves, with their wives, who had consented to share -their husbands' soi-disant apostolical labors.[268] During the four -years they have spent here, they have baptized several of their own -children. They cultivate a small farm, large enough, however, for -their own maintenance and the support of their animals and fowls. It -appears they are fearful that, should they cultivate more, they might -have too frequent visits from the savages. They even try to prevent -their encampment in their immediate neighborhood, and therefore they -see and converse but seldom with the heathens, whom they have come so -far to seek. A band of Spokans received me with every demonstration of -friendship, and were enchanted to hear that the right kind of -Black-gowns intended soon to form an establishment in the vicinity. I -baptized one of their little children who was dying. - -It was in these parts that in 1836 a modern Iconoclast, named Parker, -broke down a cross erected over the grave of a child by some Catholic -Iroquois, telling us emphatically, in the narrative of his journey, that -he did not wish to leave in that country an emblem of idolatry.[269] - -Poor man!--not to know better in this enlightened age! Were he to -return to these mountains, he would hear the praises of the Holy Name -of Jesus resounding among them; he would hear the Catholics chaunting -the love and mercies of God from the rivers, lakes, mountains, -prairies, forests and coasts of the Columbia. He would behold the -Cross planted from shore to shore for the space of a thousand -miles--on the loftiest height of the Pointed Heart territory, [CCXIII] -on the towering chain which separates the waters of the Missouri from -the Columbia rivers; in the plains of the Wallamette, Cowlitz and -Bitter Root--and, whilst I am writing to you, the Rev. Mr. Demers is -occupied in planting this same sacred symbol amongst the different -tribes of New Caledonia.[270] The words of Him who said that this holy -sign _would draw all men to Himself_, begin to be verified with regard -to the poor destitute sheep of this vast continent. Were he who -destroyed that solitary, humble Cross now to return, he would find the -image of Jesus Christ crucified, borne on the breast of more than 4000 -Indians; and the smallest child would say to him: "Mr. Parker, we do -not adore the cross; do not break it, because it reminds us of Jesus -Christ who died on the cross to save us--we adore God alone." - -In the beginning of May I arrived at Fort Colville on the Colville -river; this year the snow melted away very early. The mountain torrents -had overflowed, and the small rivers that usually moved quietly along in -the month of April, had suddenly left their beds and assumed the -appearance of large rivers and lakes, completely flooding all the -lowlands. This rendered my journey to Vancouver by land impossible, and -induced me to wait, nolens volens, at the Fort, for the construction of -the barges which were not ready until the 30th of the same month, when I -was again able to pursue my journey on the river. On the same day that I -arrived among the Shuyelpi or Chaudiere tribe, who resided near the -Fort, I undertook to translate our prayers into their language. This -kept me only one day as their language is nearly the same as that of the -Flat Heads and Kalispels, having the same origin. They were all very -attentive in attending my instructions, and the old, as well as the -young, tried assiduously to learn their prayers. I [CCXIV] baptized all -the younger children who had not received the sacrament before, for Mr. -Demers had already made two excursions amongst them, with the most -gratifying success. The great chief and his wife had long sighed for -baptism, which holy sacrament I administered to them, naming them Martin -and Mary. This chief is one of the most intelligent and pious I have -become acquainted with. - -The work of God does not, however, proceed without contradictions; it -is necessary to prepare oneself for them beforehand when undertaking -any enterprise amongst the tribes. I have had some hard trials in all -my visits. I expected them, when on the 13th of May, I started to see -the Okinakane tribe, who were desirous to meet a priest.[271] The -interpreter, Charles, and the chief of the Shuyelpi, wished to -accompany me. In crossing the Columbia river my mule returned to the -shore, and ran at full speed into the forest; Charles pursued her, -and two hours afterwards I was told that he had been found dead in the -prairie. I hastened immediately, and perceived from a distance a great -gathering of people. I soon reached the spot where he was lying, and, -to my great joy, perceived that he gave signs of life. He was however, -senseless, and in a most pitiful state. A copious bleeding and some -days of rest restored him and we resumed our journey. This time the -mule had a large rope tied around her neck, and we crossed the river -without any accidents; we took a narrow path that led us by mountains, -valleys, forests and prairies, following the course of the river -Sharameep.[272] Towards evening we were on the borders of a deep -impetuous torrent, having no other bridge than a tree which was rather -slight and in constant motion from the rushing of the waters. It -reminded me of the bridge of souls spoken of in the Potowattamie -legends. These savages believe that souls must traverse this bridge -[CCXV] before they reach their elysium in the west. The good, they -say, pass over it without danger; the bad, on the contrary, are unable -to hold on, but stumble, stagger and fall into the torrent below, -which sweeps them off into a labyrinth of lakes and marshes; here they -drag out their existence; wretched, tormented by famine and in great -agony, the living prey of all sorts of venomous reptiles and ferocious -animals, wandering to and fro without ever being able to escape. We -were fortunate enough to cross the trembling bridge without accident. -We soon pitched our camp on the other side, and in spite of the -warring waves which in falls and cascades thundered all night by our -side, we enjoyed a refreshing sleep. The greater part of the next day -the path conducted us through a thick and hilly forest of fir trees; -the country then became more undulating and open. From time to time we -perceived an Indian burial ground, remarkable only for the posts -erected on the graves, and hung with kettles, wooden plates, guns, -bows and arrows, left there by the nearest relatives of the -deceased--humble tokens of their grief and friendship. - -We encamped on the shore of a small lake called the Sharrameep,[273] -where was a Shuyelpi village; I gave these savages several -instructions and baptized their infants. At my departure the whole -village accompanied me. The country over which we travelled is open; -the soil, sterile and sandy, and the different chains of mountains -that traverse it seem to be nothing but sharp pointed rocks, thinly -covered with cedars and pines. Towards evening we came up with the men -of the first Okinakane encampment, who received us with the greatest -cordiality and joy. The chief who came out to meet us was quite -conspicuous, being arrayed in his court dress--a shirt made of a horse -skin, the hair of which was outside, the mane partly on his [CCXVI] -chest and back, giving him a truly fantastic and savage appearance. -The camp also joined us, and the fact of my arrival having been soon -noised abroad in every direction, we saw, issuing from the defiles and -narrow passes of the mountains, bands of Indians who had gone forth to -gather their harvest of roots. Many sick were presented to me for -baptism, of which rite they already knew the importance. Before -reaching the rendezvous assigned us, on the borders of the Okinakane -lake, I was surrounded by more than 200 horsemen, and more than 200 -others were already in waiting.[274] We recited together night -prayers, and all listened with edifying attention to the instruction I -gave them. The interpreter and Martin continued the religious -conversation until the night was far advanced; they manifested the -same anxiety to hear the word of God that the Stiel Shoi had -shown.[275] All the next day was spent in prayer, instructions and -hymns--I baptized 106 children and some old people, and in conclusion -named the plain where these consoling scenes occurred, the "plain of -prayer." It would be impossible for me to give you an idea of the -piety, the happiness of these men, who are thirsting for the -life-giving waters of the Divine word. How much good a missionary -could do, who would reside in the midst of a people who are so -desirous of receiving instruction, and correspond so faithfully with -the grace of God. After some regulations and advice, I left this -interesting people, and pursuing my journey for three days over -mountains and through dense forests, arrived safely at Fort Colville. - -Amongst the innumerable rivers that traverse the American continent, -and afford means of communication between its most distant portions, -the Columbia river is one of the most remarkable, not only on account -of its great importance, [CCXVII] west of the mountains, but also from -the dangers that attend its navigation. At some distance from the -Pacific ocean, crossing a territory which exhibits, in several -localities, evident marks of former volcanic eruptions, its course is -frequently impeded by rapids, by chains of volcanic rocks, and immense -detached masses of the same substance which, in many places, obstruct -the bed of the river.[276] - -I embarked on this river, on the 30th of May, in one of the barges of -the Hudson Bay Company; Mr. Ogden, one of the principal proprietors, -offered me a place in his. I shall never forget the kindness and -friendly manner with which this gentleman treated me throughout the -journey, nor the many agreeable hours I spent in his company. I found -his conversation instructive, his anecdotes and bon mots entertaining -and timely; it was with great regret that I parted from him.[277] I will -not detain you with a description of the rapids, falls and cascades, -which I saw on this celebrated river; for, from its source in the -mountains to the cascades it is but a succession of dangers. I will -endeavour, however, to give you some idea of one of its largest rapids, -called by the Canadian travellers, "great dalles."[278] A dalle is a -place where the current is confined to a channel between two steep -rocks, forming a prolonged narrow torrent, but of extraordinary force -and swiftness. Here the river is divided into several channels separated -from one another by masses of rocks, which rise abruptly above its -surface. Some of these channels are navigable at certain seasons of the -year, although with very great risk, even to the most experienced pilot. -But when, after the melting of the snow, the river rises above its usual -level, the waters in most of these channels make but one body, and the -whole mass of these united streams descend with irresistible fury. At -this season the most courageous dare not encounter [CCXVIII] such -dangers, and all navigation is discontinued. In this state the river -flows with an imposing grandeur and majesty, which no language can -describe. It seems at one moment to stay its progress; then leaps -forward with resistless impetuosity, and then rebounds against the -rock-girt islands of which I have already spoken, but which present only -vain obstructions to its headlong course. If arrested for a moment, its -accumulated waters proudly swell and mount as though instinct with life, -and the next moment dash triumphantly on, enveloping the half smothered -waves that preceded them as if impatient of their sluggish course, and -wild to speed them on their way. Along the shore, on every projecting -point, the Indian fisherman takes his stand, spreading in the eddies his -ingeniously worked net, and in a short time procures for himself an -abundant supply of fine fish. Attracted by the shoals of fish that come -up the river, the seals gambol amid the eddying waves--now floating with -their heads above the river's breast, and anon darting in the twinkling -of an eye from side to side, in sportive joy or in swift pursuit of -their scaly prey. But this noble river has far other recollections -associated with it. Never shall I forget the sad and fatal accident -which occurred on the second day of our voyage, at a spot called the -"little dalles." I had gone ashore and was walking along the bank, -scarcely thinking what might happen; for my breviary, papers, bed, in a -word, my little all, had been left in the barge.[279] I had proceeded -about a quarter of a mile, when seeing the bargemen push off from the -bank and glide down the stream with an easy, careless air, I began to -repent having preferred a path along the river's side, so strewn with -fragments of rocks that I was compelled at every instant to turn aside -or clamber over them. I still held on my course, when all at once, the -barge [CCXIX] is so abruptly stopped that the rowers can hardly keep -their seats. Regaining, however, their equilibrium, they ply the oars -with redoubled vigour, but without any effect upon the barge. They are -already within the power of the angry vortex: the waters are crested -with foam; a deep sound is heard which I distinguish as the voice of the -pilot encouraging his men to hold to their oars--to row bravely. The -danger increases every minute, and in a moment more all hope of safety -has vanished. The barge--the sport of the vortex, spins like a top upon -the whirling waters--the oars are useless--the bow rises--the stern -descends, and the next instant all have disappeared. A death-like chill -shot through my frame--a dimness came over my sight, as the cry "we are -lost!" rung in my ears, and told but too plainly that my companions were -buried beneath the waves. Overwhelmed with grief and utterly unable to -afford them the slightest assistance, I stood a motionless spectator of -this tragic scene. All were gone, and yet upon the river's breast there -was not the faintest trace of their melancholy fate. Soon after the -whirlpool threw up, in various directions, the oars, poles, the barge -capsized, and every lighter article it had contained. Here and there I -beheld the unhappy bargemen vainly struggling in the midst of the -vortex. Five of them sunk never to rise again. My interpreter had twice -touched bottom and after a short prayer was thrown upon the bank. An -Iroquois saved himself by means of my bed; and a third was so fortunate -as to seize the handle of an empty trunk, which helped him to sustain -himself above water until he reached land. The rest of our journey was -more fortunate. We stopped at Forts Okinakane and Wallawalla,[280] where -I baptized several children. - -The savages who principally frequent the borders of the Columbia river -are from the lakes; the chief of whom, with [CCXX] several of the -nation, have been baptized; also the Shuyelpi or Chaudieres, the -Okinakanes, Cingpoils, Walla-wallas, Pierced Noses, Kayuses, Attayes, -Spokanes, the Indians from the falls and cascades, and the Schinouks -and Classops.[281] - -We arrived at Fort Vancouver on the morning of the 8th June. I enjoyed -the happiness and great consolation of meeting in these distant parts, -two respectable Canadian priests--the Rev. Mr. Blanchet, grand vicar -of all the countries west of the mountains claimed by the British -crown, and the Rev. Mr. Demers. They are laboring in these regions for -the same object that we are trying to accomplish in the Rocky -Mountains. The kindness and benevolence with which these Reverend -gentlemen received me are proofs of the pure zeal which actuates them -for the salvation of these savages. They assured me that immense good -might be done in the extensive regions that border on the Pacific, if -a greater number of Missionaries, with means at their command, were -stationed in these regions; and they urged me very strongly to obtain -from my Superiors some of our Fathers. I will try to give you in my -next some extracts from the letters of these Missionaries, which will -make the country known to you, its extent, and the progress of their -mission. The Governor of the Honorable Company of Hudson Bay, Dr. -McLaughlin, who resides at Fort Vancouver, after having given me every -possible proof of interest, as a good Catholic, advised me to do every -thing in my power to gratify the wishes of the Canadian Missionaries. -His principal reason is, that if Catholicity was rapidly planted in -these tracts where civilization begins to dawn, it would be more -quickly introduced thence into the interior. Already a host of -ministers have overrun a part of the country, and have settled -wherever they may derive [CCXXI] some advantages for the privations -their philanthropy imposes on them. Such is the state of these regions -of the new world, as yet so little known: you perceive that our -prospects are by no means discouraging. Permit me therefore to repeat -the great principle you have so often recommended to me, and which I -have not forgotten: "Courage and confidence in God!" With the mercy of -God, the church of Jesus Christ may soon have the consolation of -seeing her standard planted in these distant lands on the ruins of -idolatry and of the darkest superstition. Pray then that the Lord of -such a rich harvest may send us numerous fellow laborers; for in so -extensive a field we are but five, and beset with so many dangers, -that at the dawn of day we have often reason to doubt whether we will -live to see the sun go down. It is not that we have any thing to fear -from the climate; far from it--for, if here death came only by -sickness, we might indeed count upon many years, but water, fire, and -the bow, often hurry their victims off when least expected. Of a -hundred men who inhabit this country, there are not ten who do not die -by some or other fatal accident. The afternoon of the 30th June I -resumed my place in one of the barges of the English Company, and took -my leave of the worthy and respectable Governor.--To my great joy I -found that the Rev. Mr. Demers was one of the passengers, being about -to undertake an apostolic excursion among the different tribes of New -Caledonia, who, according to the accounts of several Canadian -travellers, were most anxious to see a Blackgown, and hear the word of -God. The wind being favorable, the sails of the barge were unfurled -and the sailors plying their oars at the same time, the 11th of July -saw us landed safely at Fort Wallawalla. The next day I parted, with -many regrets, from my esteemed friends, Rev. Mr. Demers, and Mr. -[CCXXII] Ogden. Accompanied only by my interpreter, we continued our -land route to the 19th, through woods and immense plains. The high -plains which separate the waters of the Snake river from those of the -Spokan, offer some natural curiosities. I fancied myself in the -vicinity of several fortified cities, surrounded by walls and small -forts, scattered in different directions. The pillars are regular -pentagons, from two to four feet in diameter, erect, joined together, -forming a wall from forty to eighty feet high, and extending several -miles in the form of squares and triangles, detached from one another, -and in different directions.[282] On our road we met some Pierced -Noses, and a small band of Spokanes, who accosted us with many -demonstrations of friendship, and although very poor, offered us more -salmon than we could carry. The Pointed Hearts (a tribe which shall -ever be dear to me) came to meet us, and great was the joy on both -sides, on beholding one another again. They had strictly observed all -the rules I had laid down for them at my first visit. They accompanied -me for three days, to the very limits of their territory. We then -planted a cross on the summit of a high mountain, covered with snow, -and after the example of the Flat Heads, all the people consecrated -themselves inviolably to the service of God. We remained there that -night. The next morning, after reciting our prayers in common, and -giving them a long exhortation, we bade them farewell. The 20th I -continued my journey over terrific mountains, steep rocks, and through -apparently impenetrable forests. I could scarcely believe that any -human being had ever preceded us over such a road. At the end of four -days' journey, replete with fatigue and difficulties, we reached the -borders of the Bitter Root river, and on the evening of the 27th I had -the happiness of arriving safely at St. [CCXXIII] Mary's, and of -finding my dear brethren in good health.--The Flat Heads, accompanied -by Father Point, had left the village ten days before, to procure -provisions. A few had remained to guard the camp, and their families -awaited my return. The 29th, I started to rejoin the Flat Heads on the -Missouri river. We ascended the Bitter Root to its source, and the 1st -of August, having clambered up a high mountain, we planted a cross on -its very summit, near a beautiful spring, one of the sources of the -Missouri.[283] The next day, after a forced march, we joined the camp -where we had such a budget of news to open, so many interesting facts -to communicate to each other, that we sat up a greater part of the -night. The Rev. Father Point and myself, accompanied our dear -neophytes, who to obtain their daily bread, are obliged to hunt the -buffalo, even over the lands of their most inveterate enemies, the -Black Feet. On the 15th of August, the feast of the Assumption, (the -same on which this letter is dated) I offered up the sacrifice of the -Mass, in a noble plain, watered by one of the three streams that form -the head waters of the Missouri, to thank God for all the blessings He -had bestowed on us during this last year. I had the consolation of -seeing fifty Flat Heads approach the holy table in so humble, modest -and devout a manner, that to my, perhaps partial eye, they resembled -angels more than men. On the same day I determined, for the interest -of this mission, which seems so absolutely to require it, to traverse -for the fourth time the dangerous American desert. If heaven preserves -me, (for I have to travel through a region infested by thousands of -hostile savages) I will send you the account of this last -journey.--You see then, Rev. Father, that in these deserts we must -more than ever keep our souls prepared to render the fearful account, -in consequence of the perils that surround us; and [CCXXIV] as it -would be desirable that we could be replaced immediately, in case of -any accident occurring--again I say to you, pray that the Lord may -send us fellow laborers. "Rogate ergo Dominum messis ut mittat -operarios in messem suam." And thousands of souls, who would otherwise -be lost, will bless you one day in eternity. Rev. Father Point has -expressed a desire to be sent amongst the Blackfeet. Until they are -willing to listen to the word of God, which I think will be before -long, he intends to preach the gospel to the Pointed Hearts and the -neighboring tribes. I trust we shall be able to make as cheering a -report of these as we have already done of our first neophytes. I have -found them all in the best dispositions. The Rev. Father Mengarini -remains with the Flatheads and Pends d'oreilles. On my first journey, -in the autumn of 1841, which ended at Fort Colville, I baptized 190 -persons of the Kalispel tribe. On my visit, last spring, to the -various distant tribes, (of which I have just finished giving you the -account) I had the consolation of baptizing 418 persons, 60 of whom -were of the Pends d'oreille tribe of the great lake; 82 of the Kœtnays -or Skalzi; 100 of the Pointed Hearts; 56 of the Shuyelpi; 106 of the -Okenakanes, and 14 in the Okenakanes and Wallawalla Forts.--These, -with 500 baptized last year, in different parts of the country, mostly -amongst the Flat Heads and Kalispels, and 196 that I baptized on -Christmas day, at St. Mary's, with the 350 baptized by Rev. Fathers -Mengarini and Point, make a total of 1654 souls, wrested from the -power of the devil. For what the Scripture calls the "spirit of the -world" has not wherewith to introduce itself amongst them. These poor -people find their happiness even in this world in the constant -practice of their Christian duties. We may almost say of them, that -all who are baptized are saved.--[CCXXV] Since God has inspired you -with a zealous desire to second the views of the Association for the -Propagation of the Faith, entreat those pious persons to whom you may -communicate your designs, to redouble their prayers in our behalf. I -conclude by beseeching you earnestly to remember me frequently and -fervently in the Holy Sacrifice. - -I remain, very Rev. and dear Father, - - Your affectionate servant - and brother in Christ, - P. J. DE SMET, S.J. - -FOOTNOTES: - -[246] Madison River is one of the three upper branches of the -Missouri. Rising in Yellowstone Park, it is formed by the junction of -Gibbon and Firehole rivers, and at first flows north through a -mountainous and rocky country; but in its lower reaches courses -through a fertile valley.--ED. - -[247] Fort Colville was a Hudson's Bay Company post, built in 1825 to -supersede the fort at Spokane, which was too far inland for convenient -access. The site was at Kettle Falls on the east bank of the stream -(see Alexander Ross, _Fur Hunters_, ii, p. 162), the post being named -for the London governor of the company, Eden Colville. The fort became -an important station on the route of the Columbia brigade; here -accounts for the district were made up, and the dignitaries of the -company entertained. Gov. George Simpson had been at Fort Colville in -the summer before De Smet's visit, when Archibald Macdonald was the -factor in charge. This post was maintained some time after the -Americans acquired the Oregon Territory, but about 1857 it was removed -north of the international boundary line. In 1859 the United States -government built a military post called Fort Colville some miles east -of the old fur-trading stockade, near the present town of Colville, -Washington. The neighboring Indians having become peaceful, the fort -is no longer garrisoned.--ED. - -[248] This affluent of the Bitterroot from the west was the one -followed by the Lewis and Clark expedition, in their route across the -Bitterroot mountain divide. Those explorers named it Traveller's Rest -Creek; it is now known as the Lolo Fork of the Bitterroot. An affluent -of Missoula River, some distance further down, has now taken the name -that De Smet first applied to the Lolo Fork.--ED. - -[249] Hell Gate, for which see _ante_, p. 269, note 139.--ED. - -[250] The carcajou or wolverine (_Gulo luscus_).--ED. - -[251] The route usually taken by the Indians did not follow the main -branch of the river, but crossed the divide between the Missoula and -Jocko rivers, coming down into the valley of the Flathead, and -proceeding along that to its outlet into Clark's Fork. The two streams -named for the saints were the main Flathead and Jocko rivers, which -unite in the prairie described by De Smet. There were a number of small -prairies in the vicinity, known as Camas from the abundance of that root -(_Camas esculenta_). The better-known Camas Prairie was twenty miles -below the mouth of the Jocko; the one mentioned by De Smet was -apparently higher up, near the divide of the two rivers. These should -all be distinguished from the Camas Prairie (Quamash Flats) of Lewis and -Clark, which lay west of the Bitterroot Mountains.--ED. - -[252] The Kalispel are the same tribe as the Pend d'Oreille, see -_ante_, p. 141, note 8.--ED. - -[253] During the day (as described in Chittenden and Richardson, _De -Smet_, i, p. 347), the father had passed Camas Prairie and advanced -through Horse Plain at the junction of Flathead and Clark's Fork.--ED. - -[254] Doubtless intended for oxide of iron.--ED. - -[255] In _Explorations for a Pacific Railway, 1853-53_ (_Senate Ex. -Docs._, 35 Cong., 2 sess., vol. xviii, p. 91) the valley is thus -described: "The next sixty-five miles along the valley of Clark's Fork -is over a difficult trail, there being places where the sharp rocks -injured the animals;" again, "The valley is wide, arable, and inviting -for settlement, although rather heavily wooded."--ED. - -[256] Lake Pend d'Oreille, in Kootenai County, Idaho, is one of the -most picturesque bodies of fresh water in the Western states. It is -irregular in shape, about sixty miles long, and from three to fifteen -in breadth, with a shore line of nearly five hundred miles. It was -probably, first of white men, visited by trappers and traders of the -Hudson's Bay Company. It is now crossed by the Northern Pacific -Railway, and steamers ply upon its waters.--ED. - -[257] This is the Oregon cedar (_Thuya gigantea_), which attains great -size and is widely diffused on the trans-Rocky region.--ED. - -[258] The original French text of the letter describing this journey -will be found in _Voyages aux Montagnes Rocheuses_ (Chittenden and -Richardson, _De Smet_, i, pp. 354-358); it gives additional -information regarding the remainder of the journey. Having arrived at -Lake Pend d'Oreille on November 1, the traveller was three days -passing the traverse; November 13 a high mountain was crossed, and by -pushing ahead, one more long day's journey brought him to Fort -Colville, where he was hospitably entertained by the Hudson's Bay -factor. The return journey was without incident.--ED. - -[259] Montmartre is the highest point in the city of Paris, three -hundred and thirty feet above the Seine, and dominates the entire city. -In recent years a large church has been built upon its summit.--ED. - -[260] Victor, hereditary chief of the Flatheads, succeeded Paul (or Big -Face) in that office, which he retained with dignity and ability until -his death in 1870, when he was in turn succeeded by his son Charlot. He -was a consistent friend of the whites, many of the early pioneers of -Montana testifying to his kindness and integrity. His wife Agnes -remembered the coming of Lewis and Clark to their country; see O. D. -Wheeler, _On the Trail of Lewis and Clark_ (New York), ii, p. 65.--ED. - -[261] For Horse Prairie (plain) see _ante_, p. 336, note 172. For the -Kutenai see Ross's _Oregon Settlers_, in our volume vii, p. 211, note -73. In addition, note that the Kutenai (also called Skalzi) are a -distinct linguistic stock, known as Kitunahan. Their habitat was -chiefly in British territory; but because of alliance with the -Flathead and other Salishan tribes they frequently wandered southward. -A few are still on the Flathead reservation in Montana; but about five -hundred and fifty frequent the Kutenai agency in British Columbia. -They are nearly all Catholics.--ED. - -[262] Flathead Lake is a broadening of the river of that name, and -lies northeast of the present Flathead reservation. It is about -twenty-eight miles long, with an average breadth of ten, and is -studded with beautiful islands.--ED. - -[263] This hot spring is in the eastern part of the Flathead -reservation, and by a small creek discharges into the Little -Bitterroot River, an affluent of the Flathead.--ED. - -[264] For this lake see our volume vii, p. 211, note 75. Father de Smet -crossed the mountains from Missoula Valley by the route now followed by -the Northern Pacific Railway along the stream which he had christened -St. Regis Borgia, through St. Regis Pass, coming out upon the headwaters -of Cœur d'Alène River, which he followed to the lake of that name.--ED. - -[265] The mission founded by Father Point in November, 1842, known as -the Sacred Heart, was successful. The site was first upon St. Joseph -River, a feeder of Cœur d'Alène Lake; but in 1846 it was removed to Cœur -d'Alène River, at the present Cataldo. There the first church was built -by the neophytes in 1853, after designs by Father Ravalli; it is still a -landmark of the region. The tribesmen had been taught agriculture, and -lived chiefly in log houses; but the soil being sterile, the mission was -again removed to the upper waters of Haugman's Creek, in Idaho, where -the Cœur d'Alène still reside upon their reservation.--ED. - -[266] Spokane River rises in Cœur d'Alène Lake and flows almost directly -to the Falls, thence northwest to its embouchment into the Columbia. It -is about two hundred feet wide at the mouth and throughout its entire -length is broken by falls and rapids, furnishing water power of great -value, its total decline being a hundred and thirty feet. An early -fur-trade fort known as Spokane Post stood near the present city of that -name, but about 1824 was abandoned for Colville. See Franchère's -_Narrative_, in our volume vi, p. 277, note 85.--ED. - -[267] Father de Smet here refers to the cliffs and rapids on Clark's -Fork, about fifteen miles above Lake Pend d'Oreille; they are still -known as "The Cabinets." The water rushes through a gorge, between -cliffs over a hundred feet high.--ED. - -[268] This mission was located at the mouth of Chamokane (Tskimakain) -Creek, on what is known as Walker's Prairie about forty miles -northwest of Spokane, and the borders of the present Spokane -reservation. It was a station of the American Commissioners founded -March 20, 1839, by two missionaries who had visited the spot the -previous autumn and erected log-huts on the site. - -Rev. Elkanah Walker was born in Maine in 1805. Educated at Bangor -Theological Seminary he had first intended to go as a missionary to -Africa; but recruits being needed for the Oregon mission, he -volunteered, and in 1838 came out with his wife, Mary Richardson -Walker. They labored among the Spokan with considerable success--in -1841 printing a primer in that language--until the Whitman massacre -(1847). Their Indians requested them to stay and promised them -protection; but the government sent a military escort to take them to -the settlements. There Walker bought land at Forest Grove, in the -Willamette Valley, where he died in 1877. - -Rev. Cushing Eells was born in Massachusetts in 1810. Graduated at -Williams College, he married Myra Fairbank in the spring of 1838, and -with her left immediately for the Oregon mission. Living to old age, -the pioneer missionary was known throughout the West, his character -revered by all. He gave over fifty years of his life to missionary -service, in his later years being known as Father Eells. He was -instrumental in founding both Pacific University and Whitman College, -and travelled extensively in the work of building churches and -preaching. He frequently re-visited his Spokan protégés, the larger -portion of whom are now members of the Presbyterian church.--ED. - -[269] For Rev. Samuel Parker see Townsend's _Narrative_, in our volume -xxi, p. 335, note 112. Parker thus describes this incident in his -_Journal of an Exploring Tour beyond the Rocky Mountains_ (Ithaca, N. -Y., 1838), pp. 275, 276: "One grave in the same village had a cross -standing over it, which was the only relic of the kind I saw, together -with this just named, during my travels in this country. But as I -viewed the cross of wood made by men's hands of no avail, to benefit -either the dead or the living, and far more likely to operate as a -salvo to a guilty conscience, or a stepping-stone to idolatry, than to -be understood in its spiritual sense to refer to a crucifixion of our -sins, I took this, which the Indians had prepared, and broke it to -pieces. I then told them we place a stone at the head and foot of the -grave only to mark the place; and without a murmur they cheerfully -acquiesced, and adopted our custom."--ED. - -[270] Modeste Demers was born near Quebec in 1808; educated at Quebec -Seminary he was ordained in 1836, and the same year started for Red -River. Thence he went overland with the Hudson's Bay brigade in 1838, -arriving in Vancouver in the autumn of that year with Father Blanchet. -In 1839 he visited New Caledonia, and in 1842 was detailed to found -missions among the tribesmen, and to instruct the half-breeds at the -forts. He labored chiefly in New Caledonia until 1847, then being -consecrated bishop of Vancouver. He continued in this field of labor -until his death at Victoria in 1871.--ED. - -[271] The Okinagan Indians are of the Salishan family, although some -authorities class them with the Shushwaps of British Columbia. They -formed a considerable confederacy of allied tribes, extending along -the river valley of their name, and including the bands of the -Similkameen River. A trading post was early erected among them, for -which see Franchère's _Narrative_, in our volume vi, p. 260, note 71. -Alexander Ross, who married an Okinagan woman, and lived among them -for many years, is the chief authority upon their manners and customs. -See Ross's _Oregon Settlers_, in our volume vii, chapters xviii to -xxi. The Okinagan are now tributary to Colville agency, and number -about five hundred and fifty, most of whom are Catholics.--ED. - -[272] The country between Fort Colville and Okanagan has been but -imperfectly charted. It is about sixty miles in a direct line through -the Colville Indian reservation.--ED. - -[273] A small lake called Karamip is found on modern maps near the -head of Sanpoil River.--ED. - -[274] Lake Okanagan in British Columbia is about sixty miles in length -and the source of the river of that name. It would be a long and -difficult journey to return thence to Fort Colville in three days; so -that De Smet's rendezvous with the Indians was possibly at some -smaller interior lake, entitled by him Lake Okanagan because he met -that tribe upon its shores.--ED. - -[275] The Cœur d'Alène.--ED. - -[276] See Thomas W. Symons, "Report of an Examination of the Upper -Columbia River," _Senate Ex. Docs._, 47 Cong., 1 sess., No. 186.--ED. - -[277] See brief biographical sketch of Ogden in Townsend's -_Narrative_, our volume xxi, p. 314, note 99.--ED. - -[278] For detailed descriptions of the Great Dalles of the Columbia, -see _Original Journals of the Lewis and Clark Expedition_, iii, pp. -151-159; Franchère's _Narrative_, in our volume vi, p. 337; and Ross's -_Oregon Settlers_, our volume vii, pp. 130, 131--ED. - -[279] What are technically known as the Little Dalles of the Columbia -lie above Fort Colville. The description would appear to apply to the -present Whirlpool Rapids, just below Kalichen Falls, about twenty -miles above Okanagan River. The entire stretch from the Nespelin River -west, is a long series of difficult rapids and riffles. See "Report" -cited _ante_, p. 373, note 195.--ED. - -[280] For Fort Walla Walla, a Hudson's Bay post, see Townsend's -_Narrative_, in our volume xxi, p. 278, note 73.--ED. - -[281] Of these Indian tribes the Chaudière, Okinagan, Sanpoil -(Cingpoils), have been described _ante_, in notes 162, 190, 161; for -the Walla Walla and Cayuse see our volume vii, p. 137, note 37; for -the Nez Percés (Pierced Noses), volume vi, p. 340, note 145; for the -Indians of the Dalles, volume vii, p. 129, note 31; the Chinook -(Schinooks), volume vi, p. 240, note 40; for Clatsop (Classops), -volume vi, p. 239, note 39. The Attayes were probably the Yakima, an -important Shahaptian tribe in the valley of that river; one branch of -the tribe was called Atanum, and a Catholic mission by that name was -in later years established among them.--ED. - -[282] Part of the Great Plain of the Columbia, broken by many fantastic -shapes of the volcanic underlying rock. Most notable of these is the -Grand Coulée, which, however, De Smet did not cross, for it lies north -of Spokane River. He probably took the trail afterwards developed into a -part of the Mullan road, from Great Falls of Missouri to Walla Walla. -From the land of the Cœur d'Alène he returned along the route by which -he had come out--the St. Regis Pass and river St. Regis Borgia.--ED. - -[283] This was the route followed by Clark on his return journey in -1806--through Gibbon's Pass, and down the upper waters of Big Hole (or -Wisdom) River, an affluent of the Jefferson.--ED. - - - - - LETTER XIV - - - St. Mary, June 28th, 1842. - - Rev. Father: - -Thanks be to God, our hopes have at length begun to be realized; the -tender blossom has been succeeded by precious fruit, daily more and -more visible in our colony; the chief and people, by their truly -edifying conduct, give us already the sweetest consolation. Pentecost -was for us and for our beloved neophytes a day of blessings, of holy -exultation. Eighty of them enjoyed the happiness of partaking for the -first time of the bread of Angels. Their assiduity in assisting during -a month at the instructions we gave them, three times a day, had -assured us of their zeal and favor; but a retreat of three days, -which served as a more immediate preparation, contributed still more -to convince us of their sincerity. From an early hour in the morning -repeated discharges of musketry announced afar the arrival of the -great, the glorious day. At the first sound of the bell a crowd of -savages hurried towards our church. One of our Fathers, in a surplice -and stole, preceded by three choristers, one of whom bore aloft the -banner of the Sacred Heart of Jesus, went out to receive them, and -conduct them in procession, and to the sound of joyous canticles, into -the Temple of the Lord. What piety--what religious recollection, -amidst that throng! They observed a strict silence, but at the same -time the joy and gladness that filled their hearts, shone on their -happy countenances. The ardent love which already animated [CCXXVII] -these innocent hearts, was inflamed afresh by the fervent aspirations -to the adorable Sacrament, which were recited aloud by one of our -Fathers, who also intermingled occasionally some stanzas of canticles. -The tender devotion, and the profound faith with which these Indians -received their God, really edified and affected us. That morning at 11 -o'clock they renewed their baptismal vows, and in the afternoon they -made the solemn consecration of their hearts to the Blessed Virgin, -the tutelar patroness of this place.--May these pious sentiments which -the true religion alone could inspire, be preserved amongst our dear -children. We hope for their continuance, and what increases our hope -is, that at the time of this solemnity, about one hundred and twenty -persons approached the tribunal of penance, and since that truly -memorable occasion, we have from thirty to forty communions, and from -fifty to sixty confessions every Sunday. - -The feast of Corpus Christi was solemnized by another ceremony not less -touching, and calculated to perpetuate the gratitude and devotion of our -pious Indians towards our amiable Queen. This was the solemn erection -of a statue to the Blessed Virgin, in memory of her apparition to little -Paul. The following is a brief account of the ceremony. From the -entrance of our chapel to the spot where little Paul received such a -special favor--the avenue was simply the green sward, the length of -which on both sides was bordered by garlands, hung in -festoons--triumphal arches, gracefully arranged, arose at regular -distances. At the end of the avenue, and in the middle of a kind of -repository, stood the pedestal, which was destined to receive the -statue. The hour specified having struck, the procession issued from the -chapel in this order. At the head was borne aloft the banner of the -Sacred Heart [CCXXVIII] followed closely by little Paul carrying the -statue and accompanied by two choristers, who profusely strewed the way -with flowers. Then came the two Fathers, one vested in a cope, and the -other in a surplice.--Finally the march was closed by the chiefs and all -the members of the colony emulating each other in their zeal to pay -their tribute of thanksgiving and praise to their blessed Mother. When -they reached the spot one of our Fathers, in a short exhortation, in -which he reminded them of the signal prodigy and assistance of the Queen -of Heaven, encouraged our dear neophytes to sentiments of confidence in -the protection of Mary. After this address and the singing of the Litany -of the Blessed Virgin, the procession returned in the same order to the -church. Oh! how ardently we desired that all the friends of our holy -religion could have witnessed the devotion and recollection of these new -children of Mary. It was also our intention not to dismiss them until we -had given them the Benediction of the Blessed Sacrament, but -unfortunately not possessing a Remonstrance we were obliged to defer -this beautiful ceremony until the Feast of the Sacred Heart of Jesus. At -that time the Sacred Host was carried in solemn procession, and since -then each Sunday after Vespers, the faithful enjoy the happiness of -receiving the Benediction. - -May the blessing of God really descend upon us and our colony. We hope -for it through the assistance of your prayers and those of all our -friends. - - I remain, Rev. Father, - Your very humble friend and servant, - GREG. MENGARINI, S.J. - - - - - LETTER XV - - - Fort Vancouver, 28th September, 1841. - - Reverend Father: - -Blessed be the Divine Providence of the all-powerful God who has -protected, preserved and restored you safely to your dear neophytes. - -I congratulate the country upon the inestimable treasure it possesses by -the arrival and establishment therein of the members of the Society of -Jesus. Be so kind as to express to the Reverend Fathers and Brothers my -profound veneration and respect for them. I beg of God to bless your -labours and to continue your successful efforts. In a few years you will -enjoy the glory and consolation of beholding through your means all the -savages residing on the head waters of the Columbia, ranging themselves -under the standard of the Cross. I do not doubt but that our excellent -governor, Dr. McLaughlin, will give you all the assistance in his power. -It is very fortunate for our holy religion, that this noble-hearted man -should be at the head of the affairs of the honorable Hudson Bay -Company, west of the Rocky Mountains. He protected it before our arrival -in these regions. He still gives it his support by word and example, and -many favors. As we are in the same country, aiming at the same end, -namely, the triumph of the holy Catholic faith throughout this vast -territory, the Rev. Mr. Demers and myself will always take the most -lively interest in your welfare and progress, and we are [CCXXX] -convinced that, whatever concerns us will equally interest you. The -following is an account of our present situation: - -The Catholic establishment of Wallamette consists of nearly 80 -families. The one at Cowlitz of only five,--twenty-two at Nez-quale on -Puget-sound, which is from 25 to 30 leagues above Cowlitz.[284] -Besides these stations we visit from time to time, the nearest Forts -where the Catholics in the service of the Hudson Bay Company reside. -This is what takes up almost all our time. We are much in want of lay -brothers and nuns, of school masters and mistresses. We have to attend -to every spiritual as well as temporal affair, which is a great burden -to us. The wives of the Canadians, taken from every quarter of the -country, cause throughout the families a diversity of languages. They -speak almost generally a rude jargon of which we can scarcely make any -use in our public instructions--hence proceed the obstacles to our -progress,--we go along slowly. We are obliged to teach them French and -their catechism together, which occasions much delay. We are really -overwhelmed with business. The savages apply to us from all sides. -Some of them are indifferent, and we have not time to instruct them. -We make them, occasionally, hasty visits, and baptize the children and -the adults who happen to be in danger of death. But we have no time to -learn their languages, and until now have been without an interpreter -to translate the prayers we wish them to learn. It is only lately that -I have succeeded in translating them into the Tchinoux language. Our -difficulties are greatly increased by this variety of languages; each -of the following tribes has a different dialect: The Kalapouyas, -towards the head waters of the Wallamette,[285] the Tchinoux of the -Columbia river; the Kaijous from Walla-walla; the Pierced Noses, -Okanakanes, Flat Heads, Snakes, Cowlitz, the [CCXXXI] Klickatates from -the interior, north of Vancouver;[286] the Tcheheles, to the north of -the mouth of the Columbia river; the Nezquales,[287] and those from -the interior or of the Puget sound Bay, those of the Travers river, -the Khalams[288] of the above mentioned bay, those of Vancouver -Island, and those from the northern posts on the sea shore, and from -the interior of the part of the country watered by the tributary -streams of the Travers river, all have their different languages. - -Such are the difficulties we have daily to overcome. Our hearts bleed -at the sight of so many souls who are lost under our eyes, without our -being able to carry to them the word of Life. Moreover, our temporal -resources are limited. We are but two, and our trunks did not arrive -last spring by the vessel belonging to the honorable Hudson Bay -Company. We have exhausted our means. The savages, women and children, -ask us in vain for Rosaries. We have no more Catechisms of the diocese -left to distribute among them; no English Prayer Books for the -Catholic Irish; no controversial books to lend. Heaven appears to be -deaf to our prayers, supplications and most ardent wishes. You can -judge of our situation and how much we are to be pitied. We are in the -mean time surrounded by sects who are using all their efforts to -scatter every where the poisonous seeds of error, and who try to -paralyze the little good we may effect. - -The Methodists are, first, at Wallamette, which is about eight miles -from my establishment; second, near the Klatraps, south of the mouth -of the Columbia river; third, at Nez Quali, or Puget-sound; fourth, at -the Great Dalles, south of Walla walla; and fifth, at the Wallamette -Falls.[289] The Presbyterian Missions are at Wallawalla, as you -approach Colville.[290] In the midst of so many adversaries we try to -keep our ground firmly; to increase our numbers, [CCXXXII] and to -visit various parts, particularly where the danger is most pressing. -We also endeavor to anticipate the others, and to inculcate the -Catholic principles in those places where error has not as yet found a -footing, or even to arrest the progress of evil, to dry it up at its -source. The conflict has been violent, but the savages now begin to -open their eyes as to who are the real ministers of Jesus Christ. -Heaven declares itself in our favor. If we had a priest to hold a -permanent station amongst the savages, the country would be ours in -two years. The Methodist Missions are failing rapidly; they are losing -their credit and the little influence they possessed. By the grace of -God, our cause has prevailed at Wallamette. This spring, Mr. Demers -withdrew from the Methodists a whole village of savages, situate at -the foot of the Wallamette Falls. Mr. Demers also visited the -Schinouks [Chinook], below the Columbia river. They are well disposed -towards Catholicity. I have just arrived from Cascades, which is -eighteen leagues from Vancouver. The savages at this place had -resisted all the insinuations of a pretended Minister.[291] It was my -first mission, and only lasted ten days. They learned in that time -the sign of the cross, the offering of their hearts to God, the Lord's -Prayer, the Angelical Salutation, the Apostles' Creed, the ten -Commandments, and those of the Church. I intend to revisit them soon, -near Vancouver, and to baptize a considerable number. Rev. Mr. Demers -has been absent these two months, on a visit to the savages at the Bay -of Puget-sound, who have long since besought him to come amongst them. -I have not been able to visit since the month of May, my catechumens -at Flackimar, a village whose people were converted last spring, and -who had turned a deaf ear to a Mr. Waller,[292] who is established at -Wallamette. Judge then, sir, how great are our labors, and how much it -would advance our [CCXXXIII] mutual interest, were you to send hither -one of your Rev. Fathers, with one of the three lay brothers. In my -opinion, it is on this spot that we must seek to establish our holy -religion. It is here that we should have a college, convent, and -schools. It is here that one day a successor of the Apostles will come -from some part of the world to settle, and provide for the spiritual -necessities of this vast region, which, moreover, promises such an -abundant harvest.--Here is the field of battle, where we must in the -first place gain the victory. It is here that we must establish a -beautiful mission. From the lower stations the Missionaries and Rev. -Fathers could go forth in all directions to supply the distant -stations, and announce the word of God to the infidels still plunged -in darkness and the shadows of death. If your plans should not permit -you to change the place of your establishment, at least take into -consideration the need in which we stand of a Rev. Father, and of a -lay brother, to succor us in our necessities. By the latest dates from -the Sandwich Islands, I am informed that the Rev. Mr. Chochure had -arrived there, accompanied by three priests, the Rev. Mr. Walsh making -the fourth.[293] A large Catholic Church it was hoped would have been -ready last autumn for the celebration of the Holy Mysteries. The -natives were embracing our everlasting faith in great numbers, and the -meeting houses were almost abandoned. - -The Bishop of Juliopolis, stationed at Red River,[294] writes to me -that the savages dwelling near the base of the eastern part of the -Rocky Mountains have deputed to him a half blood who resides amongst -them, to obtain from his Grace a priest to instruct them. Rev. Mr. -Thibault is destined for this mission. - - I remain, Rev. Father, yours, - F. N. BLANCHET. - -FOOTNOTES: - -[284] It was not the policy of the Hudson's Bay Company to encourage -settlements. Dr. McLoughlin, however, permitted some of the retired -servants of the company to settle at French Prairie (or Chemayway) in -the Willamette Valley. There, by 1830, a considerable group of farmers -were found, mostly of French-Canadian origin. Among the earliest -settlers were Louis Labonte, Etienne Lucier, and Joseph Gervais. - -Fort Nisqually, on Puget Sound, four miles northeast of the mouth of -Nisqually River, was founded in 1833 as a fur-trading post. In 1838 -the Puget Sound Agricultural Company was formed in London, most of its -members being Hudson's Bay Company men, in order to exploit the region -of the sound; consequently a considerable settlement grew up near the -fort. - -In 1837 Simon Plomondeau was advised by Dr. McLoughlin to settle on -Cowlitz Prairie, in the valley of the river of that name. Soon one -Faincaut settled near him. In 1839 a large farm was surveyed by -Charles Ross, John Work, and James Douglas as a company settlement. It -grew but little until the advent of Americans in 1853-54.--ED. - -[285] For the Kalapuya see our volume vii, p. 230, note 80.--ED. - -[286] The Cowlitz were a numerous and powerful tribe of Salishan -stock, in the valley of the river of that name. They have now lost -their tribal identity, the remnant (there were about a hundred and -twenty-five in 1882) having lands allotted in severalty. - -For the Klikatat, see Townsend's _Narrative_, in our volume xxi, p. -302, note 88. On their later history it may be noted that they -participated in the Yakima treaty of 1855, and are now one of the -consolidated tribes on Yakima reservation; a few, however, maintaining -themselves on White Salmon River.--ED. - -[287] For the Chehalis consult our volume vi, p. 256, note 65. - -The Nisqualli are a Salishan tribe on and in the vicinity of Nisqually -River. There are now but about a hundred and fifty of this tribe -surviving on the Puyallup reservation, Washington.--ED. - -[288] The Skallam (Clallam), a tribe of Salishan origin, were first -met by whites along Admiralty Inlet. There are now about seven hundred -and fifty of these Indians extant, having allotments in severalty both -at Jamestown and Port Gamble.--ED. - -[289] Methodist missions in Oregon were founded by Rev. Jason Lee, for -whom see Townsend's _Narrative_, in our volume xxi, p. 138, note 13. The -establishment in the Willamette Valley was the central one, and -consisted largely of an agricultural settlement with a school for Indian -children, that afterwards developed into Willamette University. It was -situated about eighteen miles above Champoeg, not far from Salem. The -second station at Clatsop (not Klatraps) Plains, south of Point Adams, -was founded by J. H. Frost, accompanied by Solomon Smith and Calvin -Tibbits, who had married Clatsop women. The families removed to this -point in February, 1841. Two years later Frost returned to the United -States, and J. L. Parrish took up the work. Little attempt was made at -this point to reach the Indians. The mission at Nisqually was begun in -1839. The following year, J. P. Richmond was stationed here; he returned -home after two years, whereupon the Nisqually mission was abandoned. The -Indian mission at the Dalles was begun in March, 1838, by Daniel Lee and -H. K. W. Perkins. It was conducted with varying success until 1845, when -the property was disposed of to the Presbyterians. The settlement at -Willamette Falls, made in 1840 by A. F. Waller, was chiefly a colonizing -experiment. In 1844 there were forty Methodists at this place.--ED. - -[290] Father Blanchet here refers to the missions of Dr. Whitman at -Waiilatpu for the Cayuse, and that of H. H. Spaulding at Lapwai for -the Nez Percés. See Townsend's _Narrative_, in our volume xxi, p. 352, -note 125.--ED. - -[291] Perkins at the Dalles mission (see _ante_, note 208) had attempted -to reach the Indians gathered at the Cascades. But Blanchet gained more -influence over these nations than the Protestant missionary, for the -natives were better pleased with the Catholic ceremonials.--ED. - -[292] Probably intended for Clackamas, the name of a tribe upon the -river of the same designation, which empties into the Willamette at -the Falls. - -A. F. Waller came to reinforce the Methodist mission in 1840, and was -sent to Willamette Falls. He had a legal controversy with Dr. -McLoughlin in relation to the title to land at this place. Waller -became a citizen of Oregon, acquired considerable property, and died -in Willamette Valley in 1872.--ED. - -[293] A long struggle had occurred to secure the entrance of Catholic -missionaries to the Hawaiian Islands. The first priests, who came out in -1827, were soon expelled. Returning in 1836, after a long struggle all -were obliged to depart save Robert Walsh, an Irish priest, who was -permitted to remain, provided he would agree not to teach the natives. -In 1839 a French man-of-war threatened the government with a bombardment -and succeeded in wresting from them the promise of toleration for -Catholics; thereupon Etienne Rouchouse (Chochure), bishop of Nilopolis, -arrived in May, 1838, accompanied by two priests. The next year the -bishop returned to France for reinforcements; when on the outward voyage -the vessel foundered off Cape Horn, all on board perishing.--ED. - -[294] In 1818 J. N. Provencher was dispatched from Quebec to minister -to the Red River settlers, and established a station at St. Boniface. -In 1822, he was consecrated bishop of Juliopolis, and remained at St. -Boniface until his death in 1853. His jurisdiction included Rupert's -Land and all the Northwest provinces, whither he sent out many -missionaries during his long episcopate.--ED. - - - - - LETTER XVI - - - University of St. Louis, 1st Nov. 1842. - - Very Rev. Father: - -In my last letter of August, I promised to write to you from St. -Louis, should I arrive safely in that city. Heaven has preserved me, -and here I am about to fulfil my promise. Leaving Rev. Father Point -and the Flat Head camp on the river Madison, I was accompanied by -twelve of our Indians. We travelled in three days, a distance of 150 -miles, crossing two chains of mountains,[295] in a section of country -frequently visited by the Black Feet warriors, without, however, -meeting with any of these scalping savages. At the mouth of the -Twenty-five Yard River, a branch of the Yellow Stone, we found 250 -huts, belonging to several nations, all friendly to us--the Flat -Heads, Kalispels, Pierced Noses, Kayuses, and Snakes. I spent three -days amongst them to exhort them to perseverance, and to make some -preparations for my long journey. The day of my departure, ten -neophytes presented themselves at my lodge to serve as my escort, and -to introduce me to the Crow tribe. On the evening of the second day we -were in the midst of this large and interesting tribe. The Crows had -perceived us from a distance; as we approached, some of them -recognised me, and at the cry of "the Blackgown! the Blackgown!" the -Crows, young and old, to the number of three thousand, came out of -their wigwams. On entering the village, a comical scene occurred, of -which they suddenly made me the principal personage. All the chiefs, -and [CCXXXV] about fifty of their warriors, hastened around me, and I -was literally assailed by them. Holding me by the gown, they drew me -in every direction, whilst a robust savage of gigantic stature, -seemed resolved to carry me off by main force. All spoke at the same -time, and appeared to be quarrelling, whilst I, the sole object of all -this contention, could not conceive what they were about. I remained -passive, not knowing whether I should laugh or be serious. The -interpreter soon came to my relief, and said that all this uproar was -but an excess of politeness and kindness towards me, as every one -wished to have the honor of lodging and entertaining the Blackgown. -With his advice I selected my host, upon which the others immediately -loosed their hold, and I followed the chief to his lodge, which was -the largest and best in the camp. The Crows did not tarry long before -they all gathered around me, and loaded me with marks of kindness. The -social calumet, emblem of savage brotherhood and union, went round -that evening so frequently, that it was scarcely ever extinguished. It -was accompanied with all the antics for which the Crows are so famous, -when they offer the calumet to the Great Spirit, to the four winds, to -the sun, fire, earth and water. These Indians are unquestionably the -most anxious to learn; the most inquisitive, ingenious, and polished -of all the savage tribes east of the mountains. They profess great -friendship and admiration for the whites. They asked me innumerable -questions; among others, they wished to know the number of the whites. -Count, I replied, the blades of grass upon your immense plains, and -you will know pretty nearly the number of the whites. They all smiled, -saying that the thing was impossible, but they understood my meaning. -And when I explained to them the vast extent of the "villages" -inhabited by white men (viz. New York, [CCXXXVI] Philadelphia, London, -Paris) the grand lodges (houses) built as near each other as the -fingers of my hand, and four or five piled up, one above the -other--(meaning the different stories of our dwellings;) when I told -them that some of these lodges (speaking of churches and towers) were -as high as mountains, and large enough to contain all the Crows -together; that in the grand lodge of the national council (the Capitol -at Washington) all the great chiefs of the whole world could smoke the -calumet at their ease; that the roads in these great villages were -always filled with passengers, who came and went more thickly than the -vast herds of buffalos that sometimes cover their beautiful plains; -when I explained to them the extraordinary celerity of those moving -lodges (the cars on the rail road) that leave far behind them the -swiftest horse, and which are drawn along by frightful machines, whose -repeated groanings re-echo far and wide, as they belch forth immense -volumes of fire and smoke; and next, those fire canoes, (steamboats) -which transport whole villages, with provisions, arms and baggage, in -a few days, from one country to another, crossing large lakes, (the -seas) ascending and descending the great rivers and streams; when I -told them that I had seen white men mounting up into the air (in -balloons) and flying with as much agility as the warrior eagle of -their mountains, then their astonishment was at its height; and all -placing their hands upon their mouths, sent forth at the same time, -one general cry of wonder. "The Master of life is great," said the -chief, "and the white men are His favorites." But what appeared to -interest them more than aught else, was prayer (religion;) to this -subject they listened with the strictest, undivided attention. They -told me that they had already heard of it, and they knew that this -prayer made men good and wise on earth, and insured [CCXXXVII] their -happiness in the future life. They begged me to permit the whole camp -to assemble, that they might hear for themselves the words of the -Great Spirit, of whom they had been told such wonders. Immediately -three United States flags were erected on the field, in the midst of -the camp, and three thousand savages, including the sick, who were -carried in skins, gathered around me. I knelt beneath the banner of -our country, my ten Flat Head neophytes by my side, and surrounded by -this multitude, eager to hear the glad tidings of the gospel of peace. -We began by intoning two canticles, after which I recited all the -prayers, which we interpreted to them: then again we sang canticles, -and I finished by explaining to them the Apostles' Creed and the ten -Commandments. They all appeared to be filled with joy, and declared it -was the happiest day of their lives. They begged me to have pity on -them--to remain among them and instruct them and their little children -in the knowledge, love and service of the Great Spirit. I promised -that a Blackgown should visit them, but on condition that the chiefs -would engage themselves to put a stop to the thievish practices so -common amongst them, and to oppose vigorously the corrupt morals of -their tribe. Believing me to be endowed with supernatural powers, they -had entreated me from the very commencement of our conversation, to -free them from the sickness that then desolated the camp, and to -supply them with plenty. I repeated to them on this occasion that the -Great Spirit alone could remove these evils--God, I said, listens to -the supplications of the good and pure of heart; of those who detest -their sins, and wish to devote themselves to His service--but He shuts -his ears to the prayers of those who violate His holy law. In His -anger, God had destroyed by fire, five infamous "villages" (Sodom, -Gomorrah, [CCXXXVIII] etc.) in consequence of their horrid -abominations--that the Crows walked in the ways of these wicked men, -consequently they could not complain if the Great Spirit seemed to -punish them by sickness, war and famine. They were themselves the -authors of all their calamities--and if they did not change their mode -of life very soon, they might expect to see their misfortunes increase -from day to day--while the most awful torments awaited them, and all -wicked men after their death. I assured them in fine that heaven would -be the reward of those who would repent of their evil deeds and -practice the religion of the Great Spirit. - -The grand orator of the camp was the first to reply: "Black Gown," -said he, "I understand you. You have said what is true. Your words -have passed from my ears into my heart--I wish all could comprehend -them." Whereon, addressing himself to the Crows, he repeated forcibly, -"Yes, Crows, the Black Gown has said what is true. We are dogs, for we -live like dogs. Let us change our lives and our children will live." I -then held long conferences with all the chiefs assembled in council. I -proposed to them the example of the Flat Heads, and Pends-d'oreilles, -whose chiefs made it their duty to exhort their people to the practice -of virtue, and who knew how to punish as they deserved all the -prevarications against God's holy law. They promised to follow my -advice, and assured me that I would find them in better dispositions -on my return. I flatter myself with the hope, that this visit, the -good example of my neophytes, but principally the prayers of the Flat -Heads will gradually produce a favourable change among the Crows. A -good point in their character, and one that inspires me with almost -the certainty of their amendment, is, that they have hitherto resisted -courageously all attempts [CCXXXIX] to introduce spirituous liquors -among them. "For what is this fire-water good?" said the chief to a -white man who tried to bring it into their country, "it burns the -throat and stomach; it makes a man like a bear who has lost his -senses. He bites, he growls, he scratches and he howls, he falls down -as if he were dead. Your fire-water does nothing but harm--take it to -our enemies, and they will kill each other, and their wives and -children will be worthy of pity. As for us we do not want it, we are -fools enough without it." A very touching scene occurred during the -council. Several of the savages wished to examine my Missionary Cross; -I thence took occasion to explain to them the sufferings of our -Saviour, Jesus Christ, and the cause of His death on the Cross--I then -placed my Cross in the hands of the great chief; he kissed it in the -most respectful manner; raising his eyes to heaven, and pressing the -Cross with both his hands to his heart, he exclaimed, "O Great Spirit, -take pity on me and be merciful to Thy poor children." And his people -followed his example. I was in the village of the Crows when news was -brought that two of their most distinguished warriors had fallen -victims to the rage and cruelty of the Black Feet. The heralds or -orators went round the camp, proclaiming in a loud voice the -circumstances of the combat and the tragic end of the two brave men. A -gloomy silence prevailed every where, only interrupted by a band of -mourners, whose appearance alone was enough to make the most -insensible heart bleed, and rouse to vengeance the entire nation. This -band was composed of the mothers of the two unfortunate warriors who -had fallen, their wives carrying their new born infants in their arms, -their sisters, and all their little children. The unhappy creatures -had their heads shaven and cut in every direction; they were gashed -with numerous [CCXL] wounds, whence the blood constantly trickled. In -this pitiable state they rent the air with their lamentations and -cries, imploring the warriors of their nation to have compassion on -them--to have compassion on their desolate children--to grant them one -last favour, the only cure for their affliction, and that was, to go -at once and inflict signal vengeance on the murderers. They led by the -bridle all the horses that belonged to the deceased. A Crow chief -mounting immediately the best of these steeds, brandished his tomahawk -in the air, proclaiming that he was ready to avenge the deed. Several -young men rallied about him. They sung together the war-song, and -started the same day, declaring that they would not return -empty-handed (viz: without scalps). - -On these occasions the near relations of the one who has fallen, -distribute every thing that they possess, retaining nothing but some -old rags wherewith to clothe themselves. The mourning ceases as soon -as the deed is avenged. The warriors cast at the feet of the widows -and orphans the trophies torn away from the enemies. Then passing from -extreme grief to exultation, they cast aside their tattered garments, -wash their bodies, besmear themselves with all sorts of colours, deck -themselves off in their best robes, and with the scalps affixed to the -end of poles, march in triumph round the camp, shouting and dancing, -accompanied at the same time by the whole village. - -On the 29th I bade adieu to my faithful companions, the Flat Heads, -and the Crows. Accompanied by Ignatius, Gabriel, and by two brave -Americans, who, although Protestants, wished to serve as guides to a -Catholic Missionary, I once more plunged into the arid plains of the -Yellow Stone. Having already described this region, I have nothing new -to add concerning it. This desert is undoubtedly [CCXLI] dangerous, -and has been the scene of more tragic deeds, combats, stratagems, and -savage cruelties, than any other region. At each step, the Crow -interpreter, Mr. V. C., who had sojourned eleven years in the country, -recounted different transactions; pointing, meanwhile, to the spots -where they had occurred, which, in our situation, made our blood run -cold, and our hair stand erect. It is the battle ground where the -Crows, the Black Feet, Scioux, Sheyennes, Assiniboins, Arikaras, and -Minatares, fight out their interminable quarrels, avenging and -revenging, without respite, their mutual wrongs. After six days' -march, we found ourselves upon the very spot where a combat had -recently taken place. The bloody remains of ten Assiniboins, who had -been slain, were scattered here and there--almost all the flesh eaten -off by the wolves and carniverous birds. At the sight of these mangled -limbs--of the vultures that soared above our heads, after having -satiated themselves with the unclean repast, and the region round me, -which had so lately resounded with the savage cries of more savage -men, engaged in mutual carnage--I own that the little courage I -thought I possessed, seemed to fail me entirely, and give place to a -secret terror, which I sought in vain to stifle or conceal from my -companions. We observed in several places the fresh tracks of men and -horses, leaving no doubt in our minds as to the proximity of hostile -parties; our guide even assured me that he thought we were already -discovered, but by continuing our precautions he hoped we might -perhaps elude their craftiness and malicious designs, for the savages -very seldom make their attacks in open day. The following is the -description of our regular march until the 10th of September. At -day-break we saddled our horses and pursued our journey; at 10 A. M. -we breakfasted in a suitable place, that would offer [CCXLII] some -advantage in case of an attack. After an hour and a half, or two -hours' rest, we resumed our march a second time, always trotting our -horses, until sunset, when we unsaddled them to dine and sup; we then -lighted a good fire, hastily raised a little cabin of branches, to -induce our ever watchful foes, in case they pursue us, to suppose that -we had encamped for the night; for, as soon as the inimical videttes -discover any thing of the kind, they make it known by a signal to the -whole party. They then immediately assemble, and concert the plan of -attack. In the meantime, favored by the darkness, we pursued our -journey quietly until 10 or 12 o'clock at night, and then, without -fire or even shelter, each one disposed himself as well as he might, -for sleep. It appears to me that I hear you ask: But what did you eat -for your breakfast and supper? Examine the notes of my journal, and -you will acknowledge that our fare was such as would excite the envy -of the most fastidious gastronome. From the 25th of August to the 10th -of September, 1842, we killed, to supply our wants, as we journeyed -on, three fine buffalo cows, and two large bulls; (only to obtain the -tongue and marrow bones) two large deer, as fat as we could have -wished; three goats, two black-tail deer, a big-horn or mountain -sheep, two fine grey bears, and a swan--to say nothing of the -pheasants, fowls, snipes, ducks and geese. - -In the midst of so much game, we scarcely felt the want of bread, -sugar or coffee. The haunches, tongues and ribs replaced these. And -the bed? It is soon arranged. We were in a country where you lose no -time in taking off your shoes; your wrap your buffalo robe around you, -the saddle serves as a pillow, and thanks to the fatigues of a long -journey of about forty miles, under a burning sun, you have scarcely -laid your head upon it before you are asleep. [CCXLIII] The gentlemen -of Fort Union, at the mouth of the Yellow Stone, received me with -great politeness and kindness. I rested there during three days. A -journey so long and continuous, through regions where the drought had -been so great that every sign of vegetation had disappeared, had very -much exhausted our poor horses. The 1800 miles that we had yet to -travel, were not to be undertaken lightly. After having well -considered every thing, I resolved to leave my horses at the Fort, and -to trust myself to the impetuous waters of the Missouri in a skiff, -accompanied by Ignatius and Gabriel. The result was most fortunate, -for, on the third day of our descent, to our great surprise and joy, -we heard the puffing of a steamboat. It was a real God-send to us; -accordingly, our first thought was to thank God, in all the sincerity -of our hearts. We soon beheld her majestically ascending the stream. -It was the first boat that had ever attempted to ascend the river in -that season of the year, laden with merchandize for the Fur Trade -Company. Four gentlemen from New York, proprietors of the boat, -invited me to enter and remain on board.[296] I accepted with -unfeigned gratitude their kind offer of hospitality; the more so, as -they assured me that several parties of warriors were lying in ambush -along the river. On entering the boat I was an object of great -curiosity--my blackgown, my missionary cross, my long hair, attracted -attention. I had thousands of questions to answer, and many long -stories to relate about my journey. - -I have but a few words to add. The waters were low, the sand-banks and -snags everywhere numerous; the boat consequently encountered many -obstacles in her passage. We were frequently in great danger of -perishing. Her keel was pierced by pointed rocks, her sides rent by -the snags. Twenty times the wheels had been broken to [CCXLIV] pieces. -The pilot's house had been carried away in the tempest; the whole -cabin would have followed if it had not been made fast by a large -cable. Our boat appeared to be little more than a mere wreck, and in -this wreck, after forty-six days' navigation from the Yellow Stone, we -arrived safely at St. Louis. - -On the last Sunday of October, at 12 o'clock, I was kneeling at the -foot of St. Mary's Altar, in the Cathedral, offering up my -thanksgiving to God for the signal protection He had extended to his -poor, unworthy servant. From the beginning of April I had travelled -five thousand miles. I had descended and ascended the dangerous -Columbia river. I had seen five of my companions perish in one of -those life-destroying whirlpools, so justly dreaded by those who -navigate that stream. I had traversed the Wallamette, crossed the -Rocky Mountains, passed through the country of the Black Feet, the -desert of the Yellow Stone, and descended the Missouri; and in all -these journeys I had not received the slightest injury. "Dominus memor -fuit nostri et benedixit nobis." I recommend myself to your good -prayers, and have the honor to remain. - - Your very humble and obedient - son in Jesus Christ, - P. J. DE SMET, S.J. - -[Illustration: Indian Symbolical Catechism] - -FOOTNOTES: - -[295] Passing from Madison to Gallatin rivers, crossing the divide -that separates them, and then from Gallatin to the Yellowstone, -probably by way of Bozeman's Pass, the nearest and most frequented -route. This would bring the travellers out upon the Yellowstone at -about the present Livingston, Montana.--ED. - -[296] One of the proprietors was Pierre Chouteau, whom Father de Smet -had doubtless known in St. Louis. Larpenteur relates this meeting -(Coues, _Larpenteur's Journal_, i, p. 174), and states that the -opposition of a new firm had brought the American Fur Company partners -to the upper river to concert plans.--ED. - - - - - EXPLANATION OF THE INDIAN - SYMBOLICAL CATECHISM - - -1. Four thousand years from the creation of the world to the coming of -the Messiah. 1843 years from the birth of Jesus Christ to our times. (On -the map, each blank line represents a century.) _Instruction._--There is -but one God; God is a spirit; He has no body; He is everywhere; He -hears, sees and understands every thing; He cannot be seen, because he -is a spirit. If we are good we shall see Him after our death, but the -wicked shall never behold Him; He has had no beginning, and will never -have an end; He is eternal; He does not grow old; He loves the good, -whom he recompenses; He hates the wicked, whom he punishes. There are -three persons in God; each of the three is God--they are equal in all -things, &c. - -2. The heavens, the earth, Adam and Eve, the tree of the knowledge of -good and evil, the serpent, the sun, moon, stars, the angels, and -hell. _Instruction._--God is all powerful; He made the heavens and -earth in six days. The first day he created matter, light, the angels. -The fidelity of some and the revolt of others. Hell. The second day, -the firmament, which is called heavens; the third day, the seas, -plants, and trees of the earth; fourth day, the sun, [CCXLVI] moon, -and stars; fifth day, the birds and fishes; sixth day, the animals, -Adam and Eve, the terrestrial paradise, and the tree of the knowledge -of good and evil. The seventh day was one of rest. A short time after -the seventh day, the serpent tempted Eve. The fall of Adam, original -sin; its consequences. Adam driven from Paradise, the joy of the -Devil. The promise given of a future Saviour, the Son of God. He did -not come immediately, but 4000 years afterwards. - -N. B. It is not well to interrupt too frequently the explanation of -the figures on the chart. The necessary remarks on the history of -religion in general may be made more advantageously apart, and in a -continuous manner. Pass at once to the Incarnation of Jesus Christ, -the mystery of Redemption, &c. - -3. Death of Adam. - -4. Enoch taken up into heaven; he will return at the end of the world. - -5. Noah's Ark, in which four men and four women are saved; all the -others perish in the deluge. _Instruction._--The history of the -deluge. The preaching of Noah. The ark was 450 feet long, 75 wide, and -45 high. Deluge lasts 12 months. The Rainbow. Sem, Cham and Japhet. - -6. The Tower of Babel, built by Noah's descendants. -_Instruction._--About 150 years after the deluge; 15 stories high. -Confusion of languages. - -7. Abraham, Isaac, Jacob, Joseph, Job, Moses, Aaron, Pharaoh. -_Instruction._--The history of Abraham, Isaac, Jacob and Joseph. His -dreams. He is sold at the age of 16. Jacob passes over to Egypt about -22 years after his son. The Israelites reside in that country 205 -years. The history of Moses, the ten plagues of Egypt. The Passover. -[CCXLVII] The Israelites leaving Egypt. The passage of the Red Sea. -Pharaoh's army. - -8. Sodom, Gomorrah, five cities destroyed by fire from heaven. Lot -saved by two angels. _Instruction._--Three angels visit Abraham. Two -angels go to Sodom. The wife of Lot changed into a pillar of salt. - -9. The ten commandments of God given to Moses alone on Mount Sinai. -_Instruction._--Fifty days after the Israelites have crossed the Red -Sea. The promulgation of the Commandments on two tables. First fast of -Moses, idolatry of the people, prayer of Moses, golden calf, &c. Second -fast of Moses. Second tables of the law, 40 years in the desert, the -manna, the water issuing from the rock, the brazen serpent. Caleb and -Josua. Moses prays with his arms extended. Josua. The passage of the -Jordan. Fall of the walls of Jericho. The twelve Tribes. Government of -God by means of Judges for the space of three to four hundred years. -Josua, Debora, Gideon, Jephte, Samson, Heli, Samuel, Saul, David, -Solomon, Roboam. _Instruction._--The kingdom of Israel formed of ten -tribes; it subsisted for 253 years, under 18 kings. That of Juda, formed -of two tribes, subsisted 386 years, under 19 kings. - -10. The Temple of Solomon. _Instruction._--It was built in 7 years. -Its dedication. What it contained. It was burned about the 16th year -of the 34th age. It was rebuilt at the end of the captivity. This last -building was very inferior, and it was at last destroyed forty years -after the death of Jesus Christ. Julian, the apostate, was -instrumental in accomplishing the prediction of our Saviour. - -11. The four great and the twelve minor prophets. - -12. Elias taken up into heaven; will return at the end of the world. -Eliseus his disciple. Jonas three days in a whale's belly. - -[CCXLVIII] 13. The captivity of Babylon. _Instruction._--This -captivity lasted for 70 years. It commenced on the 16th of the 34th -age, and terminated about 86th of the 35th. - -14. History of Susana, Tobias, Judith, Esther. Nabuchodonozer reduced -for the space of 7 years to the condition of a brute. The three -children in the furnace. - -15. The Old Testament. _Instruction._--The history of the book of the -law, destroyed in the commencement of the captivity. Re-placed at the -end of this time by the care of Esdras. Destroyed again under the -persecution of Antiochas. - -16. The holy man Eleazar. The seven Machabees and their mother; -Antiochus, St. Joachim, and St. Anne. - -17. Zacharias, Elizabeth, Mary, Joseph. The apparition of the angel -Gabriel to Zacharias. Birth of St. John the Baptist. The angel Gabriel -appears to Mary. Mystery of the Incarnation of the Word. Fear of -Joseph. The visitation. Mary and Joseph leave for Bethlehem. Jerusalem -is 30 leagues from Nazareth, Bethlehem is 2 leagues from Jerusalem, -Emmaus 3 leagues. - -18. Jesus Christ, the Son of God, made man for us. The history of the -Annunciation. - -19. Jesus Christ is born on Christmas day, at Bethlehem. The history -of His birth; the angels and shepherds. The circumcision at the end of -eight days. The name of Jesus. - -20. The star of Jesus Christ seen in the East, predicted by Balaam. - -21. The three kings (Magi.) Gaspard, Balthazar and Melchior, having seen -the star, come to adore the infant Jesus. _Instruction._--The star -disappears. The Magi visit Herod. King Herod consults the priests. They -point out Bethlehem. The star re-appears. The [CCXLIX] adoration and -presents of the Magi twelve days after our Saviour's birth. - -22. Herod wishes to kill the infant Jesus. Herod's fears; his -hypocrisy; his recommendation to the Magi. - -23. An angel orders the three kings not to return by Herod's -dominions, but by another road. The infant Jesus is carried to the -temple of Jerusalem forty days after his birth. The holy man Simeon, -and the holy widow Anne acknowledge Him as God. This fact comes to -Herod's ears; his anger; his strange resolution with regard to the -children of Bethlehem, where he thought the infant Jesus had returned. - -24. An angel orders Joseph to fly into Egypt with the infant Jesus and -Mary his mother. _Instruction._--What happened the night after the -presentation in the Temple. By the command of Herod all the little -children in the town and environs of Bethlehem are put to death. - -26. He falls sick and dies at the end of a month, devoured by worms. -(Croiset, 18 vol. page 17.) - -27. An angel orders St. Joseph to carry the infant Jesus, and Mary his -mother, back into their own country. They return to Nazareth. - -28. Jesus, Mary and Joseph, go up every year to the temple to -celebrate the Passover. - -29. Mary and Joseph lose the infant Jesus at the age of twelve years, -and find him at the end of three days, in the temple, in the midst of -the doctors of the law. _Instruction._--Fear of Joseph and Mary. Words -of his mother. Answer of Jesus. - -30. Jesus Christ dwelt visibly on earth for more than 33 years. - -31. He taught men the manner of living holily. He [CCL] gave them the -example, and obtained for them the grace to follow it, by his -sufferings and death. - -32. St. John baptizes Jesus Christ. _Instruction._--The birth of the -precursor; his life and fasting; his disciples. He declares he is not -the Messiah. He points Him out as the Lamb of God. His death. The -heavens open at the baptism of Jesus Christ. The Holy Ghost descends. -The Eternal Father speaks. Jesus Christ goes into the desert. He -fasted for forty days. He is tempted by the devil. The preaching of -Christ during three years. His life, His doctrine, His miracles. - -33. The twelve Apostles of Jesus Christ--Peter, Andrew, James, John, -Philip, Bartholomew, Thomas, Matthew, James, Jude, Simon, Judas. - -34. St. Peter, the chief of the Apostles, the Vicar of Jesus Christ on -earth, and the first Pope. - -35. The Apostles the first Bishops. - -36. Judas sells his master for thirty pieces of money. Hatred of the -Jews. The treason of Judas. - -37. Mount Calvary. The cross of Jesus Christ. The other crosses and -the robbers. - -38. Jesus Christ died on Good Friday. History of the Passion of Jesus -Christ. Crucified at 12 o'clock and died at 3. Darkness over the -earth. Miracles. Repentance of the executioners. His soul descends -into hell. His body is embalmed and laid in the sepulchre, and guarded -by Roman soldiers. - -39. Jesus Christ rises from the dead on Easter day. History of the -Resurrection. He appears to Mary, to St. Peter, to the two disciples -going to Emmaus, to the Apostles. Incredulity of St. Thomas. Christ's -apparition eight days after. Then also at the lake of Tiberias. The -[CCLI] confession of St. Peter. The mission of the Apostles. - -40. Jesus Christ ascends into heaven on Ascension day, 40 days after -His resurrection. He sends the Holy Ghost to His Church 10 days after -His ascension. Wonders and mysteries of the day. - -41. He will return to the earth at the end of the world for the -general judgment. - -42. The seven Sacraments, instituted by our Lord Jesus Christ for our -sanctification. The three Sacraments that can be received but once. -The five Sacraments of the living. The two of the dead. - -43. Prayer in order to obtain the assistance of the grace of God. St. -Paul and St. Matthias. - -44. Our duties for every day, every week, every month, every year. - -45. The six Commandments of the Church. - -46. The Church of Constantine the great. - -47. The cross of Jesus Christ found on Calvary by St. Helen, after -having sought it for three years. The miraculous cross of -Constantine. The invention of the Holy Cross. The cross carried by -Heraclius in the seventh century. Julian the Apostate. - -48. The New Testament. The arrangement of the Canon. The discipline -ordained by the Council of Nice. - -50. St. Augustine converts the English and teaches them the religion -of Christ or the Catholic religion. - -51. The English follow the religion of Christ, or the Catholic -religion, for 900 years. - -52. Luther, Calvin, Henry VIII. wander from the way of Christ, reject -His religion, that is, the Catholic church. The by-road and its forks -represent the Reformation, with its divisions or variations for the -last 300 years. The straight road of Jesus Christ existed a long time -before. [CCLII] Lucifer or Satan, the first to take a wrong road--he -seduces Adam and Eve and their descendants to accompany him. Jesus -Christ comes to conduct us into the right road, and enable us to keep -it by the grace of redemption. The devil is enraged at the loss he -suffers; but he succeeded in the following ages, by inducing men to -walk in a new, bad road, that of the pretended Reformation. - -53. Arius, Macedonius, Pelagius, Nestorius, Eutyches, Monothelites. - -54. Mahomet, Iconoclasts, Berenger, Albigenses, Photius, Wicleff. - -55. The four great schisms--of the Donatists, the Greeks, the West, -and of England. - -56. Luther, Calvin, Henry VIII. - -57. Baius, Jansenius, Wesley. - -58. The sacred phalanx of the Œcumenical councils. - -59. The priests came into the Indian country to teach the Indians the -right road or the religion of Jesus Christ, to make them the children -of the Catholic church. - -60. History of the Catholic missions now flourishing throughout the -world. - - - - -Transcriber's Notes: - -Obvious punctuation and spelling errors have been fixed throughout. - -Original page numbers have been distinguished from footnotes by -placing them in square brackets in roman numerals. If the original -page number was already a roman numeral then it is lower case, -otherwise they are upper case. - -Inconsistent hyphenation left as in the original text. - -Page 126: A caption was added to the illustration. - -Page 403: A caption was added to the illustration. - - - - - - -End of Project Gutenberg's Early Western Travels 1748-1846, v. 27, by Various - -*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK EARLY WESTERN TRAVELS *** - -***** This file should be named 42090-8.txt or 42090-8.zip ***** -This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: - http://www.gutenberg.org/4/2/0/9/42090/ - -Produced by Douglas L. 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