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diff --git a/41776-8.txt b/41776-8.txt deleted file mode 100644 index c52e838..0000000 --- a/41776-8.txt +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5929 +0,0 @@ -The Project Gutenberg EBook of America, Volume III (of 6), by Joel Cook - -This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with -almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or -re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included -with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org/license - - -Title: America, Volume III (of 6) - -Author: Joel Cook - -Release Date: January 4, 2013 [EBook #41776] - -Language: English - -Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1 - -*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK AMERICA, VOLUME III (OF 6) *** - - - - -Produced by Melissa McDaniel and the Online Distributed -Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This file was -produced from images generously made available by The -Internet Archive) - - - - - - - -Transcriber's Note: - - Inconsistent hyphenation and spelling in the original document have - been preserved. Obvious typographical errors have been corrected. - - Italic text is denoted by _underscores_. - - The Table of Contents for this book refers to it as Volume II. The - Title Page and List of Illustrations refer to it as Volume III. - - The Table of Contents for this volume refers to chapters - ultimately published in a subsequent volume. Those chapter - listings are retained, but the page number links are not active. - - - -AMERICA - - - - - [Illustration: _A Cowboy_] - - - - - _EDITION ARTISTIQUE_ - - The World's Famous - Places and Peoples - - AMERICA - - BY - JOEL COOK - - In Six Volumes - Volume III. - - MERRILL AND BAKER - New York London - - - - -THIS EDITION ARTISTIQUE OF THE WORLD'S FAMOUS PLACES AND PEOPLES IS -LIMITED TO ONE THOUSAND NUMBERED AND REGISTERED COPIES, OF WHICH THIS -COPY IS NO. 205 - -Copyright, Henry T. Coates & Co., 1900 - - - - -CONTENTS -VOLUME II - - - PAGE - - VIII. AROUND THE HARBOR OF NEW YORK, 3 - - IX. THE ENVIRONMENT OF LONG ISLAND SOUND, 89 - - X. ASCENDING THE HUDSON RIVER, 129 - - XI. A GLIMPSE OF THE BERKSHIRE HILLS, 241 - - XII. THE ADIRONDACKS AND THEIR ATTENDANT LAKES, 271 - - XIII. CROSSING THE EMPIRE STATE, 329 - - XIV. DESCENDING THE RIVER ST. LAWRENCE, 399 - - - - -LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS -VOLUME III - - - PAGE - - GRANT'S TOMB, NEW YORK 58 - - WILLIAM CULLEN BRYANT AT "CEDARHURST," ROSLYN 94 - - PALISADES OF THE HUDSON 132 - - UP THE HUDSON FROM THE WATER BATTERY, WEST POINT 162 - - STATE CAPITOL, ALBANY, N. Y. 204 - - - - -AROUND THE HARBOR OF NEW YORK. - - - - -AMERICA, -PICTURESQUE AND DESCRIPTIVE. - - - - -VIII. - -AROUND THE HARBOR OF NEW YORK. - - - Hendrick Hudson -- The Ship "Half Moon" -- Manhattan Island -- - New Amsterdam -- Hudson River -- Fire Island -- Navesink - Highlands -- Sandy Hook -- Liberty Statue -- Governor's Island - -- Jersey City -- Hoboken -- Weehawken -- The Kills -- Perth - Amboy -- Staten Island -- New Dorp -- Commodore Vanderbilt -- - Hackensack River -- Passaic River -- Paterson -- Newark -- - Elizabeth -- Rahway -- Raritan River -- New Brunswick -- Battle - of Monmouth -- Molly Pitcher -- Greater New York -- Battery - Park -- Bowling Green -- Broadway -- Trinity Church -- Famous - and Sky-Scraping Buildings -- Wall Street -- National City Bank - -- St. Paul's Church -- City Hall Park -- Chemical Bank -- Dry - Goods District -- Cooper Institute -- Peter Stuyvesant -- Union - Square -- Tammany Hall -- Madison Square -- Fifth Avenue -- - Washington Square -- Little Church Around the Corner -- Murray - Hill -- John Jacob Astor -- Alexander T. Stewart -- Fifth - Avenue Architecture -- The Vanderbilts -- New York Public - Library -- Famous Churches -- Jay Gould -- Metropolitan Museum - -- Central Park -- Museum of Natural History -- Morningside - Park -- Riverside Park -- Spuyten Duyvel Creek -- Battle of - Harlem Heights -- Fort Washington -- Morrisania -- Croton - Aqueducts -- High Bridge -- The Bronx -- Van Cortlandt Park -- - Bronx Park -- Pelham Bay Park -- Hunter's Island -- East River - and its Islands -- Hell Gate -- Brooklyn Bridge -- City of - Churches -- Brooklyn Development -- Fulton Street -- Brooklyn - Heights -- Plymouth Church -- The Beecher Family -- Church of - the Pilgrims -- Pratt Institute -- Greenwood Cemetery -- Its - Famous Tombs -- Ocean Parkway -- Prospect Park -- Coney Island - -- Its Constant Festival -- Brighton and Manhattan Beaches -- - View from the Observatory. - - -HENDRICK HUDSON. - -The redoubtable navigator for the Dutch East India Company, Hendrick -Hudson, after exploring Delaware Bay, sailed along the New Jersey -coast and entered Sandy Hook, discovering, on September 11, 1609, the -Hudson River. There is a vague tradition that the first European who -saw the magnificent harbor of New York was the Florentine, Verrazani, -who came as early as 1524. Hudson was searching for the "Northwest -Passage," and when he steered his little ship, the "Half Moon," into -the great river, with its swelling tide of salt water, was sure he had -found the long-sought route to the Indies. He explored it as far up as -the present site of Albany, creating a sensation among the Indians, -who flocked to the shores to see the "great white bird," as they -called the "Half Moon," because of its wide-spreading sails. He traded -with them for tobacco and furs, finding the Lenni Lenapes on the -western bank and the Mohicans on the eastern side, and to impress them -with his prowess, put them in a great fright by shooting off his -cannon. Upon returning from Albany, the Indians gave him a feast on an -island, breaking their arrows in token that they meant no treachery. -Hudson had a goodly store of seductive "schnapps," and offered them -some in return for their hospitality. They examined it closely, smelt -it, but passed it along without tasting. Finally one, somewhat bolder, -partook, and drinking a good deal, fell in a drunken stupor for -several hours. When finally aroused he said the Dutchmen had the -strongest water he had ever tasted, and the other Indians then became -eager to try the fire-water too, and soon they were all under its -influence, and thus became firm friends of the Dutch. - -The scene of this great carousal is said to have been the island where -is now the city of New York. The Indian word Man-a-tey means "the -island," and from this they named the place Man-a-hat-ta-nink, the -"island of general intoxication." Ticknor, in his guide-book, gravely -tells us that "from the scene of wassail and merriment which followed -the meeting of the sailors and the Indians, the latter called the -island Manhattan, "the place where they all got drunk." Thus, at the -beginning, this noted locality acquired a reputation which many attest -as existing with undiminished lustre in maturer years. By way of -variety in this connection, it may be related that Washington Irving, -in Knickerbocker's veritable history of New York, has this to say: -"The name most current at the present day, and which is likewise -countenanced by the great historian Vander-Donck, is Manhattan, which -is said to have originated in a custom among the squaws, in the early -settlement, of wearing men's hats, as is still done among many tribes. -'Hence,' as we are told by an old Governor, who was somewhat of a wag, -and flourished almost a century since, and had paid a visit to the -wits of Philadelphia, 'hence arose the appellation of man-hat-on, -first given to the Indians, and afterwards to the island'--a stupid -joke, but well enough for a Governor." Irving continues: "There is -another, founded on still more ancient and indisputable authority, -which I particularly delight in, seeing it is at once poetical, -melodious and significant, and this is recorded in the before-mentioned -voyage of the great Hudson, written by Master Juet, who clearly and -correctly calls it Manna-hatta, that is to say, the island of Manna, -or, in other words, 'a land flowing with milk and honey.'" - - -NEW AMSTERDAM AND ITS HARBOR. - -About five years elapsed after Hudson's discovery before a colony was -firmly fixed on Manhattan Island, which, when fairly started in 1614, -was a little palisade fort and four small log houses. The Dutch called -their possessions the Niew Netherlands, named the colony Nieu -Amsterdam, and the land across the East River was known as Nassau, the -earliest name of Long Island. Hudson was so impressed with the -Highlands and the Catskills, which he passed in exploring the river, -that he named it the "River of the Mountains," but this was changed -by the Dutch to Mauritius, in honor of Prince Maurice of Nassau. The -Indians along the banks called the river Shatemuc and Cahohatatea. The -English, shortly after the discovery, began calling it the Hudson -River, but later, it was generally styled the North River to -distinguish it from the Delaware or South River; and North River is -the name now generally used in New York. The Manhattan colony was of -slow growth, and the first Dutch Governor sent out was a Westphalian, -Peter Minuit, a thrifty old fellow, who, by again making good use of -"schnapps," bought the whole of Manhattan Island in 1626 from the -Indians for beads and trinkets valued at sixty guilders, about $25. -There were a thousand people there in 1644, making the original Dutch -aristocracy of the "Knickerbockers," this name being adapted later -from Irving, and they impressed their peculiarities upon the early -city; but their descendants have largely given place to a newer -aristocracy of wealth and an army of immigrants from all races. The -last Dutch Governor, Peter Stuyvesant, arrived in 1647, and for -protection the colonists had then built a fence across the island -along what is now the line of Wall Street. An Indian scare a few years -later caused this to be replaced with a wall of cedar palisades, and -it ultimately developed into the city wall. Thus enclosed, the Mayor -of New Amsterdam was required to walk around the walls every morning -at sunrise, unlock the gates and give the keys to the commander of -the fort down at the Battery. When the Duke of York's English -expedition came over in 1664 and overturned the government of old -Stuyvesant, surnamed "Peter the Headstrong," and his Knickerbockers, -at the same time changing the city's name to New York, it had three -hundred and eighty-four houses, and in 1700 the population had -increased to about six thousand. The first English Governor was Sir -Edmund Andros. - -The remote sources of the Hudson River are in Hamilton and Essex -Counties, in the Adirondacks, in northeastern New York State, the -highest at four thousand feet elevation above the sea, the head -streams being outlets for a large number of highland lakes. The river -flows over three hundred miles to the sea, and has few tributaries, -the largest being the Hoosac and the Mohawk. Its lower course is a -long tidal estuary, the tidal head being at Troy, from whence the fall -in level to the ocean is only about five feet. The estuary below -Manhattan Island expands into the noble New York harbor, enclosed -between Long Island on the east and Staten Island on the west, the -latter being the Indian Aquehonga, meaning the "high sandy banks." The -harbor entrance from the sea, at Sandy Hook, is eighteen miles below -the city. Inside Sandy Hook is the lower bay, of triangular form, -extending nine to twelve miles on each side, the Narrows, a deep -channel about a mile wide at the northeastern angle, opening into the -upper bay, which is an irregular oval, about eight by five miles. This -extends northward into the Hudson River, westward into Newark Bay, and -has the tidal strait of East River leading north to Long Island Sound, -on the eastern side of Manhattan. Within the bays and rivers around -New York there are over a hundred miles of available anchorage ground, -and the Government is now making a channel to the sea through Sandy -Hook bar, forty feet deep at low water. - - -ENTERING NEW YORK HARBOR. - -The approach from the sea to Sandy Hook is first guided for the modern -navigator by the flashing white light on Fire Island, a low sand-strip -on the Long Island Coast; and then there rise in front the Highlands -of the Navesink, on the Jersey Coast south of Sandy Hook, with a pair -of twin lighthouses perched upon their green slopes. The Hook, a long -strip of yellow sand enclosing the harbor, also has another lighthouse -on its northern end. Here are the expanding works of a formidable fort -defending the harbor entrance, and an artillery trial and proving -ground. Behind the Navesink Highlands and the Hook, the Jersey shore -of the lower bay stretches far back westward into Raritan Bay, thrust -up into the land between New Jersey and Staten Island. The green hills -of this island, crowned with villas, make the northwestern boundary -of the bay. To the right hand of the Hook, and north of the entrance, -is the sand strip of Coney Island, with its stretch of hotels and -buildings, the popular seashore resort of New York. Within the Hook is -the lower Quarantine on the west bank of Romer Shoal, and over -opposite is Gravesend Bay, behind Coney Island. The Narrows, where the -Hudson has forced an outlet through a broken-down mountain range, is -partly obstructed by an island reef of rocks. The hill-slopes, -together with the island, are fortified, Forts Hamilton and Tompkins -being on either hand, named after Alexander Hamilton and Daniel D. -Tompkins, the latter having been a Governor of New York and -Vice-President of the United States. On the island is the little red -sandstone Fort Lafayette, where many famous political prisoners were -confined during the Civil War. Within the Narrows the upper bay -spreads out, the high Staten Island hills, covered with noble -mansions, rising on the left hand, while on the right are the hamlets -on the lower shores of Long Island, with the distant tombs of -Greenwood Cemetery behind. The villages of Clifton and Stapleton and -the Quarantine Station are on Staten Island, Stapleton being the -yachting headquarters. Bedloe's and Ellis's Islands are passed, the -latter being the landing-place of arriving emigrants, while on the -former, now called Liberty Island, is the colossal Liberty Statue -presented to the United States by France in commemoration of the -Centenary of the Declaration of Independence in 1876. This statue, -designed by Bartholdi and erected ten years later, is a female figure -holding aloft a torch--"Liberty enlightening the world." It is made of -copper and iron, and weighs two hundred and twenty-five tons. The -statue is one hundred and fifty-one feet high, and stands on a granite -pedestal one hundred and fifty-five feet high. - -Over on the western side, behind these small islands, the Jersey shore -recedes, and the strait making the boundary of Staten Island, which -the Dutch named the Kill von Kull, stretches around behind that island -to Arthur Kill and sundry railway coal-shipping ports on its banks, -where the great coal roads come out from the Pennsylvania mines. Just -in the entrance to East River is Governor's Island, with an -old-fashioned circular stone fort, called Castle William, and the more -modern defensive work, Fort Columbus. On Governor's Island is the -United States Army headquarters. This old Castle William, with another -very similar circular fort, then called Castle Clinton, on the Battery -at the lower end of Manhattan Island, were the defensive works of New -York in the eighteenth century. Castle Clinton is now an aquarium. Red -Hook, the jutting point of Brooklyn, is opposite Governor's Island, -and above it the East River opens, the strait flowing between New York -and Brooklyn, and connecting the harbor with Long Island Sound, -twenty miles distant, beyond the famous "Hell Gate," once the terror -of the mariner, but since improved by costly rock excavations which -have made a deep and safe channel. Through the East River and Hell -Gate flows the greater part of the Hudson River tidal current. Both -the East and North Rivers are lined on either side for miles by piers -crowded with shipping, and the tall towers and ponderous cables of the -Brooklyn Bridge rise high above the East River, while behind the -foliage-covered Battery Park stretches the metropolis, with its many -huge buildings. - - -JERSEY CITY AND STATEN ISLAND. - -Communipaw, the lower end of Jersey City, is opposite the Battery, and -above it the Jersey City front on the Hudson River is occupied for -miles by railway terminals, making a succession of piers, ferry-houses -and grain elevators. Originally Jersey City was the sandy peninsula of -Paulus Hook, a tongue of flat farming land stretching down between the -Hudson River and Newark Bay. The termination of this peninsula is -Communipaw, long a sleepy village, originally granted to a Dutch West -India Company Director--Michael Pauw. He was proud of this domain, of -which he was the patroon, so he called it Pavonia or Communipauw, the -"Commune of Pauw." His Dutch garrison massacred the Indians in the -neighborhood, and soon afterwards, in retaliation, they exterminated -all the Dutch but one family. At Jersey City there come out to the -Hudson River all the great Trunk Line railways from the West, with the -single exception of the New York Central Railroad. In the Revolution, -the site of the present Pennsylvania Railroad Terminal Station was a -British fortification, which was partly stormed and captured, with a -number of prisoners, in 1779, by Major Henry Lee. Jersey City is -entirely a growth of the nineteenth century, at the beginning of which -it had a population of only thirteen persons, living in a single -house. It now has two hundred and fifty thousand, and is replete with -important manufacturing establishments, its expansion having come from -the overflow of New York and the wonderful development of its railway -system. While spreading over much surface, yet it presents little -attraction beyond the enormous railway terminals and factories. The -traveller rarely stops there, but rushes through to get into or out of -New York. To the northward is Hoboken, with sixty thousand people, -including many Germans, and it has large silk factories. Here, in -strange contrast with the commercial aspect of everything around, the -river front rises in a bluff shore, crowned by a grove of trees and -running up into a low mound, whereon is the "Stevens Castle." This was -the home of Edwin A. Stevens one of the projectors of the Camden and -Amboy Railroad. He endowed the Stevens Institute of Technology at -Hoboken, and spent his declining years and much of his railway -fortune in building the "Stevens Battery," a noted warship, for New -York harbor defense, which he bequeathed his native State of New -Jersey, and that Commonwealth shortly afterwards sold it to be broken -up for old iron. Beyond is the village of Weehawken, with the Elysian -Fields, where Aaron Burr killed Alexander Hamilton in the duel of -1804, then a pleasant rural resort, but now largely absorbed by -railway terminals. This duel arose from political quarrels, and at the -first fire Hamilton received a wound from which he died the next day. -Behind Jersey City rises the long rocky ridge of Bergen Hill, through -which all but one of the railways cut their routes by tunnels or deep -fissures, and its outcroppings above Weehawken come forward to the -Hudson River bank in the grand escarpment of the Palisades. These -remarkable columnar formations of trap rock extend for twenty miles -along the western shore of the river, and in part appear to be built -up of basalt. To connect the various railways terminating at Jersey -City with New York, a tunnel is being constructed under the Hudson -River; and two others, and also a gigantic bridge, are projected. - -I have already referred to Staten Island, which is the western border -of New York harbor, where its pleasant hill-slopes add so much to the -scenic beauty. The narrow "Kills," stretching for nearly twenty miles -down to Perth Amboy, make its western boundary, separating the -island, which is the Borough of Richmond in Greater New York, from New -Jersey, to which by right it is said to belong. It covers about sixty -square miles, with its diversified hill-slopes rising in some places -to an elevation of over four hundred feet, and has probably seventy -thousand population. It is shaped something like a leaf, hung, as it -were, upon the long projecting peninsula between Newark Bay and New -York harbor, the Kill von Kull stretching westward to divide it from -this peninsula, which at that part is the town and port of Bayonne, -running off into Bergen Point at the lower end of Bergen Hill. It was -from Bergen Point that General Washington in 1787 was rowed in a barge -to New York, to be inaugurated the first President of the United -States. From Elizabethport, on the western side of Newark Bay, the -Arthur Kill stretches, a narrow strait, far southward, broadening -somewhat into Staten Island Sound, and debouching at Perth Amboy into -the western end of Raritan Bay. Perth Amboy was the terminus of the -original line of the Camden and Amboy Railroad. It was the capital of -the Colonial Province of New Jersey two centuries ago, and its -eligible position at the confluence of Staten Island Sound and the -Raritan River and Bay, the point of union of the various interior -water ways, made it at that early period very ambitious. In fact, -"Perthtown, or Ompoge on Ambo" (the Indian name for the point, which -meant "round and hollow"), then rivalled New York in commercial -importance. Its name came from the Earl of Perth, one of the grantees -of lands in East Jersey. Early travellers flocked thither, praising -its merits; and even William Penn was persuaded to go over and look at -it, oracularly declaring, "I have never seen such before in my life," -whatever that might have meant. But New York, with its great harbor, -ultimately overshadowed Amboy, and it has since dropped out, even as a -way-station on the route between the two leading cities. It has about -fifteen thousand inhabitants, and its trade chiefly consists in -shipping coal and fire-clay, brought out by the railroads. - -The loyal Jerseyman will never forgive New York for having captured -Staten Island. After the English came to New York in 1664, under the -grant of King Charles II. to the Duke of York of all the country from -Canada down to Virginia, the Duke granted to Berkeley and Carteret the -portion lying between the Hudson and Delaware Rivers. This grant -grieved the New Yorkers, for they said it gave away the best lands -around their harbor, so they tried to get it all back, and managed to -capture Staten Island. Some sharp fellow invented the fiction, on -which they resolutely insisted, that the Arthur Kill was really the -Hudson River; and, taking possession, they never gave it up. A legal -contest was fought for over one hundred and fifty years, and it was -not until 1833 that a treaty between the two States declared the -Kills to be their boundary. Staten Island is about sixteen miles long, -and from its eastern slopes has a noble outlook over the Lower New -York Bay towards the ocean. Fine beaches line these coasts, which rise -sharply into hills inland, and most of the eligible sites are crowned -with villas. It was at Stapleton, on Staten Island, that Commodore -Cornelius Vanderbilt, the head of the great family, was born in 1794, -and he laid the foundation of his great fortune, at the age of sixteen -years, by sailing a ferryboat to New York, six miles away. Upon a -plateau in the centre of the island is the village of New Dorp, the -original settlement of the Vanderbilts, a farm of about four hundred -acres. Here the Commodore came in his youth, and here his son, William -H. Vanderbilt, was born and lived for many years, an agricultural -laborer for his father. Here also is a little Moravian church they -attended, and upon a terraced hill behind it, the highest part of the -island, is the spacious gray granite mausoleum, within which rest the -two great millionaires, father and son, with some of their children. -In the old churchyard are the graves of many other Vanderbilts and -their collaterals. At Port Richmond, over on the Kill, the most -considerable town on the island, and formerly the county-seat, is the -house, now a hotel, in which Aaron Burr died in 1836. - - -SOME NEW JERSEY TOWNS. - -Westward from Bergen Hill and the Palisades are the meadows which -stretch down to Newark Bay, and meandering through them to form it are -the Hackensack and Passaic Rivers. The name of Hackensack means, in -the original Indian dialect, the "lowlands," and it was given by them -also to the channel around Bergen Point, by which the waters of Newark -Bay reach New York harbor. This river drains the western slopes of the -Palisades. Passaic means "the valley," and the name seems to have -referred to the country through which that stream flows. The Passaic -River, which is ninety miles long, comes from the mountains of -Northern New Jersey and flows a tortuous course to Paterson, fifteen -miles northwest of Jersey City, where there is an admirable water -power which has created a manufacturing town of over one hundred -thousand people, having extensive silk and cotton mills and locomotive -factories. The river describes a curve, forming the boundary of the -city for more than nine miles, on all sides excepting the south, and -its rapids and falls descend seventy-two feet, the falls being a most -picturesque cataract with fifty feet perpendicular descent. The town -was named after Governor William Paterson of New Jersey, who signed -its incorporation act July 4, 1792, the manufacturing corporation -projecting it having been formed under the auspices of Alexander -Hamilton. - -The Passaic flows onward past Newark nine miles west of Jersey City, -another extensive and prosperous manufacturing city of two hundred and -fifty thousand inhabitants, turning out goods of all kinds with an -annual value of over $100,000,000. This city spreads far across the -flat surface above Newark Bay and adjoining the Passaic, and to the -northward its suburbs run up into the attractive hills of Orange. -Market Street is a fine highway through the business section, while a -large area is covered by comfortable and handsome residences, among -which passes Broad Street, its finest avenue, one hundred and -thirty-two feet wide, shaded by majestic trees, bordered with many -ornamental buildings, and skirting three attractive parks embowered -with elms. Newark is a great iron and steel centre, makes fine -jewelry, good carriages and excellent leather, and also brews much -lager beer. Yet few would suppose it had a strictly Puritan origin. In -1666, hearing the praises of East Jersey, a body of discontented men -of Connecticut, headed by their pastor, Abraham Pierson, journeyed to -the Passaic meadows and bought these lands from the Hackensack Indians -"for one hundred and thirty pounds, twelve blankets and twelve guns." -In early life the pastor had preached at Newark in England, for which -he had quite an affection, and he gave the Jersey settlement its name. -When Philadelphia was founded, the fame of Newark spread down there as -a producer of excellent cider and seductive Jersey apple jack. Its -most famous son of modern times was General Phil Kearney. - -Five miles beyond Newark the diminutive Elizabeth River flows down to -the Kills, and here is the city of Elizabeth, with fifty thousand -people, noted as one of the handsomest of the Jersey towns. Like -Newark and Paterson, it is really an outlying suburb of New York, -providing homes for much of the overflow of population, who rush into -the metropolis for business every morning, and back again every -evening. Under the name of Elizabethport it spreads down to the Arthur -Kill, and over there are most of its factories and extensive -coal-shipping piers. The original settlement dates from 1665, when it -was named in honor of Lady Elizabeth, wife of Sir George Carteret, one -of the grantees of East Jersey. The early inhabitants were largely -Puritans, and its chief establishment is the extensive works of the -Singer Sewing Machine Company. Here was founded the College of New -Jersey, afterwards removed to Princeton, and a tablet marking the -original site was unveiled in 1897. A few miles beyond, another little -river flows down to the Kills, first named after old Rahwack, the -Indian sachem whose tribe owned the land thereabouts, and here is -another thriving town, Rahway, which is noted for its carriages. At -Menlo Park, nearby, the electrical inventor, Thomas A. Edison, -sustained by New York capital, toiled for years in seclusion to -perfect his discoveries, and developed the germ that has grown to -such vast proportions. The "Wizard of Menlo Park" afterwards located -his chief laboratory and his home at Newark. Then, crossing what are -known as the "Short Hills" westward, past many villages, among them -Metuchen, once the domain of Metuching, the Indian "King of the -Rolling Land," we come to the Raritan River, thirty-one miles from -Jersey City. - -Here debouches the Delaware and Raritan Canal at New Brunswick, a city -of twenty-five thousand people. The Raritan flows through the red -shales and sandstones of Central New Jersey, generally a -chocolate-colored stream, and goes off to form Raritan Bay, fifteen -miles below. Factories cluster on the New Brunswick lowlands along the -river and canal, but there is a handsome town built upon the higher -grounds, encircling the lower and older portions like a crescent. The -Dutch came here from the Hudson River early in the eighteenth century -and found a village which had been started by some fishermen from Long -Island. They organized the town, naming it in honor of the Ducal House -of Brunswick. Its most prominent feature is Rutgers College, housed in -red sandstone buildings upon attractive grounds, alongside the -railway, a venerated foundation of the Dutch Reformed Church, -originally chartered by King George III. as "Queen's College," but -afterwards receiving the name of Rutgers from a benefactor in 1826. It -has an important adjunct in the New Jersey Agricultural College. -There is also the Dutch Reformed Theological Seminary, the first -established in America, and dating from 1771, its main building, also -named from its chief benefactor, being Hertzog Hall. An early -traveller, visiting New Brunswick in 1748, described it as "a pretty -little town with four churches;" and these quaint buildings are still -there, the ancient Christ Church being surrounded with the graves of -the first settlers. Eighteen miles to the southeast the Revolutionary -battle of Monmouth was fought in June, 1778, and a monument -commemorates it at Freehold (Monmouth Court-house). Sir Henry Clinton, -having evacuated Philadelphia, was marching towards New Brunswick, -intending to embark on the Raritan for New York. Washington, coming -from Valley Forge in pursuit, gave him battle. The day was very hot, -and the result was an uncertainty, General Charles Lee's misconduct, -for which Washington reprimanded him on the field, preventing a -victory, and at night the British withdrew quietly. Lee was afterwards -court-martialed and suspended from command for a year. Monmouth was -the scene of "Molly Pitcher's" famous exploit. She was Mary Hays of -Carlisle, Pennsylvania, wife of John Hays, a soldier in the First -Pennsylvania Artillery. Molly was with the army, and engaged in -bringing water to the battery, which was behind a hedgerow, her -husband managing one of the cannon. The British made a charge, and a -shot killing him, the officers, having no one to manage the gun, -ordered it withdrawn. Molly saw her husband fall and heard the order; -dropping her bucket, she seized the rammer and served the gun with -skill and dexterity. Next morning General Greene presented her to -General Washington, who conferred upon her the office of Sergeant. She -afterwards lived at Carlisle Barracks, and died there in 1823. - - -GREATER NEW YORK. - -The Dutch city of New Amsterdam, which became New York by the English -conquest in 1664, was of slow growth. It had hardly more than twenty -thousand inhabitants at the time of the Revolution, being less than -either Boston or Philadelphia, and a map made in 1767 shows that the -town scarcely extended beyond Wall Street. At the beginning of the -nineteenth century there were sixty thousand people, and its rapid -growth began through large immigration after the War of 1812, and was -stimulated by the completion of the Erie Canal in 1825, which gave it -greatly increased foreign trade. By the new Charter of "Greater New -York" coming into operation in 1897, the city was made, next to -London, the largest in the world, being expanded beyond Manhattan -Island, so as to include all the outlying cities. It now consists of -five boroughs, Manhattan, the Bronx, Brooklyn, Queens and Richmond, -having an area of three hundred and twenty square miles, and a -population exceeding three and one-half millions. If Jersey City and -the other New Jersey settlements on the west side of the Hudson were -added, the population would be four millions. This great city is about -thirty-five miles long from north to south, and nineteen miles wide. -The long and narrow island of Manhattan stretches thirteen miles, -while it is not much over two miles broad in the widest part, and -sometimes narrows to a few hundred yards, particularly in the northern -portion. The Harlem River and the winding strait of Spuyten Duyvel -separate northern Manhattan from the mainland. The island is very -rocky, excepting the southern part, which is alluvial, and at the -upper end the cliffs rise precipitously from the Hudson over two -hundred and thirty feet into Washington Heights, and the surface -descends sharply on the eastern side to the Harlem flats. It does not -take the visitor long to recognize, however, that the capacious -harbor, the converging rivers and numerous adjacent arms of the sea -combine all the requisites of a great port, and they could not have -been better planned if human hands had fashioned them. There is a vast -wharf-frontage, for over fifty miles of shore-line are available for -shipping, thus accommodating an almost limitless commerce. This has -made the metropolis and continues its wonderful growth. - -At the lower end of Manhattan is the Battery Park, of about twenty -acres, with the elevated railways coming over it from both sides of -the city, and joining at the lower point of the island in a terminal -station at the South Ferry. Here were located the old forts for the -city defense, but the park superseded them after the War of 1812, and -in the earlier years of the nineteenth century this was the -fashionable resort for an airing. The old circular fort, Castle -Garden, now the Aquarium, was formerly a popular place of amusement, -and here, under the auspices of the great manager, Barnum, Jenny Lind -made her first appearance in America in 1850. The Park contains a -statue of John Ericsson. The lower point of the island is Whitehall -Slip, and here is the Government Barge Office, an appanage of the -Custom House. To the northward of the Battery is the Bowling Green, -the space between them having been the site of the original Dutch -palisade fort which guarded New Amsterdam. A row of fine residences -was built here, which afterwards became the favorite locality for -steamship offices, and the new Custom House is now being constructed -on their site. This Bowling Green, a triangular space of about a -half-acre, was in the early days surrounded by the homes of the -proudest Knickerbockers. For seven years during the Revolution, and -until the evacuation, November 25, 1783, this was the British -headquarters. Here lived Cornwallis, Howe and Clinton, Benedict Arnold -occupied No. 5 Broadway, and Washington's headquarters was in No. 1, -on the west side, now occupied by the towering Washington Building, -rising nearly three hundred feet to the top of the cupola. To the -eastward is the spacious Produce Exchange, in Italian Renaissance, -with its huge square tower, part of the ground on which it stands -having been the site of the house where Robert Fulton lived and died. -Talleyrand also once lived on Bowling Green. In the centre is the -statue of Abraham de Peyster, an original Knickerbocker, erected in -1895. There was a leaden statue of King George III. here at the -opening of the Revolution, but it was pulled down when the Declaration -of Independence was promulgated in 1776, carried to Litchfield, -Connecticut, and melted into bullets for the Continental soldiers, so -that it was facetiously said at the time that "King George's troops -will probably have his melted Majesty fired at them." - - -BROADWAY. - -The two smaller streets on either side of the Bowling Green, Whitehall -and State Street, unite to the northward and form Broadway. This is -the chief highway of New York, and one of the most famous in the -world, extending in various forms all the way to Yonkers, a distance -of nineteen miles. The long and narrow formation of Manhattan Island -puts Broadway longitudinally in the centre of the city, and -necessarily throws into it an enormous traffic. One can hardly make -any extended movements in New York without getting into Broadway. -Hence the noted street has its show, always on exhibition, of the -restless rush of life in the modern Babylon. The architecture of its -great buildings, which tower far skyward, excites admiration, and its -perpetual din of traffic, with the moving crowds and jam of vehicles, -is the type of New York activity. This wonderful street is eighty feet -wide between the buildings, and extends of that width from the Bowling -Green five miles to Central Park at Fifty-ninth Street; and from its -upper end, beyond this, the "Grand Boulevard," one hundred and fifty -feet wide, with pretty little parks in the centre, is prolonged -northward. In its course, which inclines somewhat to the westward, -Broadway diagonally crosses Fifth, Sixth and Seventh Avenues, and at -the Central Park boundary intersects Eighth Avenue. Here is the -"Merchant's Gate," entering the Park from Broadway, the opposite -entrance from Fifth Avenue being known as the "Scholar's Gate." The -intermediate entrances at Sixth and Seventh Avenues are the "Artist's -Gate" and the "Artisan's Gate." - -A survey of Broadway gives the best idea of the characteristics of New -York. Its lower course is a succession of wealthy financial and -business establishments and huge office buildings, and the adjacent -streets on either side are similarly occupied. Banks, trusts, -insurance offices, and manufacturers' and merchants' counting-rooms, -railroad and steamship offices are everywhere. But in the midst of all -this display of worldly wealth and grandeur is the quiet graveyard at -the head of Wall Street, wherein stands the famous Trinity Church. Its -chimes, morning and evening, summon the restless brokers and business -men to attend divine service, though few may take heed. It is a -wealthy parish, with over $500,000 annual revenue, maintaining a -magnificent choir and various charities, and owns valuable buildings -all about. The old graveyard stretches along Broadway, and in Church -Street, behind, the elevated railway trains rush by every few minutes. -It is part of the valuable domain of Trinity Church that "the heirs of -Anneke Jans" have long been trying to recover. Anneke Jans Bogardus -was an interesting Dutch lady who died in Albany in 1663, having -outlived two husbands. The first husband owned the whole of the Hudson -River front of New York between Chambers and Canal Streets, with a -wide strip running back to Broadway. Her heirs sold this to the -British Colonial Government, and it was known as the "King's Farm," -being afterwards given as an endowment to Trinity Church. This is what -the present generation of heirs want to recover, but thus far have -gained more notoriety than cash by the effort. - -In 1696 the first Trinity Church was built, being afterwards burnt, -while a second church was built and taken down, to be replaced by the -present fine Gothic brownstone edifice, whose magnificent spire rises -two hundred and eighty-four feet. This church was dedicated in 1846, -and its chancel contains a splendid reredos of marble, glass and -precious stones, the memorial of William B. Astor, while the bronze -doors are a memorial of his father, John Jacob Astor. The churchyard -is chiefly a mass of worn and battered gravestones, resting in the -busiest part of New York, the oldest stone being dated 1681, for it -has been a burial-place more than two centuries. Near its northern -border is the Gothic "Martyrs' Monument," erected over the bones of -the patriots who died in the British prison-ships, moored over on the -Brooklyn shore during the Revolution. There are hints, however, that -it was not so much the reverent memory of these heroes that prompted -the erection of the monument as the desire of the vestry to stop the -proposed opening of a street through the yard. There is also a -remembrance that, while these patriots were in prison dying, among -their relentless foes was the Trinity rector, Dr. Inglis. When General -Washington came into New York in 1776 he desired to worship at the -church, and sent an officer to Dr. Inglis, on Sunday morning, to -request that he omit reading the usual prayers for the king and the -royal family. The rector refused, and afterwards said: "It is in your -power to shut up the churches, but you cannot make the clergy depart -from their duty." Among the noted graves is that of Charlotte Temple, -under a flat stone, having a cavity out of which the inscription -plate has been twice stolen. Her romantic career and miserable end, -resulting in a duel, have been made the basis of a novel. William -Bradford's grave is here, one of Penn's companions in founding -Philadelphia; but he removed to New York, published the first -newspaper there, and for fifty years was the official printer. A -brownstone mausoleum covers the remains of Captain James Lawrence of -the frigate "Chesapeake," killed in action in 1813, when his ship was -taken by the British ship "Shannon," his dying words being, "Don't -give up the ship." Here also are buried Alexander Hamilton, Robert -Fulton, Albert Gallatin and other famous men, almost the latest grave -being that of General Philip Kearney, killed in the Civil War. - - -SOME FAMOUS BUILDINGS. - -The great number of immensely tall office-buildings on lower Broadway, -literally "sky-scrapers," so encompass the street as to give it the -appearance of a deep canyon as one gazes along it between them. The -Bowling Green Building out-tops the Washington Building, and there are -the Welles, Standard Oil and Aldrich Court Buildings, the latter -marked by a tablet of the Holland Society, being erected on the site -of "the first habitation of white men on Manhattan Island." Opposite -it is one of the most curious appearing of these tall structures, the -Tower Building, nearly two hundred feet high and only twenty-five -feet wide. Just above, the tall light sandstone building of the -Manhattan Life Company is surmounted by a cupola three hundred and -fifty feet high. The Empire Building rises twenty stories, and the -American Surety Building at the corner of Pine Street, nearly opposite -Trinity churchyard, twenty-three stories, three hundred and six feet, -being surmounted by the various weather-gauging instruments of "Old -Probabilities." Here are also the magnificent buildings of the Union -Trust and the Equitable Life Companies. - -Opposite Trinity Church, Wall Street leads off from Broadway, with -winding course and varying width, down to the East River, following -the line of the ancient Dutch palisade wall which it has replaced. -Here is the financial centre and the domain of the bankers. One block -down, Broad Street enters from the south, and the narrower Nassau -Street goes out to the north. At this corner, on the one hand, is the -white marble Drexel Building, Mr. J. Pierpont Morgan's office, and on -the other the United States Treasury and Assay Office. The huge -Manhattan Trust Building also is there, rising three hundred and -thirty feet, and opposite is the Stock Exchange, while across Broad -Street from the latter is the Mills Building, the home of many bankers -and brokers. In Nassau Street is the magnificent building of the -Mutual Life Insurance Company. These financial structures at Broad -and Wall Streets are regarded as the most valuable real estate in the -world. The Treasury and Assay Office contain most of the gold owned by -the Government, and in the latter the kegs of gold are made up that -are shipped to Europe. It holds millions of gold bars that make annual -excursions in fast steamers across the ocean and back again, to adjust -our varying foreign exchange balances. The Treasury is a white marble -building fronted by an imposing colonnade and a broad flight of steps, -and here is a bronze statue of Washington on the spot where he was -inaugurated the first President of the United States in 1789, the -location being then occupied by the old Federal Hall, where the first -Congress met. Farther down Wall Street, the next corner is William -Street, where there is a massive dark granite building with an -elaborate Ionic colonnade. The interior contains a large rotunda -surmounted by a dome supported by eight immense columns of Italian -marble. This building was originally constructed for the Merchants' -Exchange, and it afterwards became the Custom House. It is hereafter -to be the office of the National City Bank, the largest financial -institution of New York. Wall Street goes on to the river, where there -is a ferry to Brooklyn. Down William Street is the broad, low, granite -building, with a columned portico, of the Farmers' Loan and Trust -Company, another financial institution of renown. - -It is evident, as Broadway is traversed northward between the huge -office-letting structures, reared skyward, and among them the little, -narrow, crooked streets, pouring their traffic into the main stream, -carrying a vast, surging mass of humanity, that the crowded-in New -Yorker, deprived of lateral expansion, thus seeks needed relief by -mounting upward. Fulton Street here stretches across the island from -river to river, the turmoil from its conflicting streams of traffic -showing the full tide of restless development in lower Broadway. Above -is the white marble Park Bank and the enormous St. Paul Building, -rising three hundred and eight feet, twenty-six stories high. Opposite -is the sombre church of St. Paul, with a tall spire, the oldest -church-building in New York, built in 1756, containing the memorial of -General Montgomery, who fell at the storming of Quebec in 1775, and in -the graveyard a monument to Emmet, the Irish patriot. Just beyond is -the triangular City Hall Park, with Park Row diagonally entering -Broadway. Here can be got an idea of the rush and restlessness of New -York, for two enormous streams of traffic pour together into lower -Broadway, at probably the worst street-crossing in the world. - - -THE CITY HALL PARK. - -The New York City Hall Park was the ancient "Commons," or public -pasturage, and it now contains the headquarters of the city -government, and may be regarded as the political and business centre. -It is enclosed by Broadway, Park Row and Chatham Street, a triangular -space, formerly a sort of garden around the City Hall, but now well -occupied by other buildings. At the southern extremity is the -Post-office, which cost $7,000,000, a grand granite structure in Doric -and Renaissance, with a fine dome and tower, which are a landmark for -miles. Around this Park, and in the many streets radiating from it, -are a vast aggregation of corporate institutions and great buildings -devoted to all kinds of business. Here are the offices of newspapers, -banks, trusts, insurance companies, railways, lawyers, politicians, -exchanges, etc., with lunch-rooms and restaurants of every grade, -liberally provided to feed or stimulate the multitude. The famous -hotel of a past generation, the Astor House, rich in historical -associations, stands on the opposite side of Broadway from the -Post-office. Along Park Row are the great newspapers, and here is -Printing House Square, adorned with statues of Benjamin Franklin and -Horace Greeley, appropriate in this region deluged with printer's ink. -Here is the Ivins Syndicate Building, finished in 1898, the loftiest -structure in New York, twenty-nine stories, its towers rising three -hundred and eighty-two feet. The tall and narrow Tribune Building, of -red brick with white facings, has its clock tower reared two hundred -and eighty-five feet, while beyond is the Pulitzer Building, of -brownstone, with a gilded dome, its apex rising three hundred and -seventy-five feet. The building of the American Tract Society on -Nassau Street is twenty-three stories and three hundred and six feet -high, with a restaurant on the top. Park Row runs into Chatham Square, -over which the Brooklyn Bridge terminal comes out, with elevated and -surface railroads all about. This is a location of cheap shops and -concert halls, and is prolonged into the Bowery, an avenue of the -humbler classes, lined with shops, theatres and saloons, generally -crowded, and having four sets of street cars running on the surface, -besides the elevated roads above. The ancient Dutch farms on this part -of the island were known as the "Bauereies," whence came the name of -the street. - -Chambers Street bounds the City Hall Park on the north, and upon it -faces the Court-house, a massive Corinthian building of white marble, -finished in 1867, famous as the structure which the "Tweed Ring" of -that time used to extract about $15,000,000 from the city treasury on -fraudulent bills, or more than five times the actual cost of the work. -It stands on part of the site of an old fort, which in the Revolution -was the British outpost commanding the approach to the city by the -Northern or Bloomingdale Road, now Broadway. The City Hall, to the -southward, is a less pretentious and much older building, constructed -in the Italian style, of white marble with freestone at the back to -the northward, it being supposed at the time of its completion, 1812, -that "no one of importance would ever live to the north of the -building," then a broad expanse of farms. Here is the office of the -Mayor and the meeting-place of the Board of Aldermen, and its chief -apartment is the "Governor's Room," adorned with portraits of various -Governors of New York and Revolutionary patriots, and having among its -treasures Washington's desk and chair which he used when first -President of the United States, and also the chairs of the First -Congress. To the southwest of the City Hall a fine statue of Nathan -Hale, an early victim of the Revolution, executed by the British in -New York in 1776, faces Broadway. - -Near Chambers Street and the northern end of the Park a noted building -stands on the opposite side of Broadway, a modest brownstone structure -without any pretension nor of much height, but containing a famous -bank, whose phenomenal success is everywhere known. This is the -Chemical Bank, originally started as a chemical manufacturing company -with banking privileges. The chemistry seems to have been a failure -and soon abandoned, but the banking talents were so well developed -that the shares of $100 par value have sold for over forty times that -sum. The capital is only $300,000, but it has amassed a surplus over -twenty times the amount, and is the strongest bank in New York. Among -the large shareholders are said to be three New York ladies who -married foreign titles--the Dowager Duchess of Marlborough (who was -Miss Pine, afterwards Mrs. Hamersley, and now Lady Beresford), the -Duchess de Dino (Miss Sampson), and the Comtesse de Trobriand (Miss -Jones). It is here that the noted Mrs. Hetty Green generally conducts -her financing, a lady of immense fortune and peculiar ideas, who has -been one of the greatest money accumulators of New York. Across -Chambers Street, and occupying an entire block, is the building that -originally was "Stewart's Store," where the late Alexander T. Stewart -made most of his success in the dry-goods trade, now converted into a -vast office building for all kinds of business. This was the outpost -of the "Dry Goods District," for Broadway northward for several -blocks, including a wide belt of adjacent streets, now deals with all -kinds of products of the mill and loom, clothing and similar articles. -Here are located the agents and factors for many mills at home and -abroad, and their traffic sometimes exceeds a thousand millions of -dollars a year. The pulse of the American dry-goods trade throbs in -this locality, weakening or strengthening as poor or good crops give -the farmers and working-people a surplus to spend upon dress. Mr. -Stewart once said that if every woman decided to pass a single season -without a new bonnet it would sufficiently diminish trade to bankrupt -this whole district. Canal Street crosses New York through the -northern portion of the district, a broad highway, formerly a water -course draining an extensive swamp across Broadway to the Hudson -River. In this locality, east of Broadway, are two famous regions--the -"Five Points," now, however, much improved, and "Chinatown." The -latter, in Mott Street, has its Joss House, restaurant, theatre and -opium joints, and is picturesque with swinging lights and banners. In -Leonard Street, standing where once was part of the swamp, is the -noted Tombs City Prison, thus named because originally it was a sombre -gray building in the gloomy Egyptian style, but this was recently -replaced by a modern structure. The Criminal Courts adjoining are -connected with it by a bridge. - - -PETER COOPER AND PETER STUYVESANT. - -At Bond Street, in advancing up Broadway, are encountered the -booksellers, this with adjacent streets being the home of much of that -trade. In Lafayette Place is the spacious Astor Library, and in the -wide Astor Place is the handsome new building of the Mercantile -Library. The former is now a part of the New York Public Library. A -half-century ago the site of the Mercantile Library was occupied by -the "Astor Place Opera House," then a leading theatre, and in the -adjacent streets occurred the "Macready riots" in 1849. The rivalries -of Edwin Forrest and Macready resulted in an effort by the partisans -of the former to prevent the latter from playing in the Opera House -on the night of May 10th. The Forrest faction attacked the building -with stones, and the police being unable to control them, troops were -called out, and, firing several volleys along Astor Place, they -suppressed the riot and dispersed the mob, but at a cost of about -sixty killed and wounded. At the end of Astor Place and its junction -with Third Avenue is the Cooper Institute, occupying an entire block, -a large brownstone building with a fine front, founded and endowed in -1857, at a total cost of about $1,000,000, by Peter Cooper, for the -free education of men and women in science and art. His statue stands -in front. It also received in 1900 additional gifts from his executors -and $300,000 from Andrew Carnegie. Peter Cooper was a wealthy -manufacturer and merchant of the broadest philanthropy. At a recent -anniversary of the Institute his son-in-law, Abram S. Hewitt, speaking -of him, said: "Fifty years ago three men, all of whom started in life -as poor boys, got together and talked over various ways by which they -could be of benefit to the public. They were Peter Cooper, Ezra -Cornell and Matthew Vassar. The latter said he would found a school -for girls, and he founded Vassar College. Mr. Cornell said he would -found a school for boys, and he founded Cornell University. Peter -Cooper said he would found a school for both girls and boys, and he -founded Cooper Union. But Mr. Cooper's school differs from the others, -in that here, any boy or girl may receive an education absolutely -free of charge." Opposite the Cooper Institute is an immense red -building, the "Bible House," the home of the American Bible Society, -where the Scriptures are printed by the millions, in all languages, -for distribution throughout the world--over eighty different languages -and dialects being used. - -Diagonally northeast from Astor Place runs Stuyvesant Street, formerly -the country lane leading out to the ancient farmhouse of old Governor -Stuyvesant, surnamed "Peter the Headstrong." Here was built "St. -Mark's Church in the Bowerie" in the last century, then a mile out of -town, and the quaint little Stuyvesant House still stood, at that -time, perched on a high bank near the church, having, with its -odd-looking overhanging upper story, been built of small yellow bricks -brought out from Holland. In the days of New Amsterdam this region was -Governor Stuyvesant's "Bauerie," and to it he retired when compelled -to surrender to the English in 1664. He lived in this secluded spot -for eighteen years, dying in 1682, and his brown gravestone occupies a -place in the wall of the church. He was the last of the Dutch -Governors, energetic, aristocratic and overbearing, and described by -Irving as a man "of such immense activity and decision of mind that he -never sought nor accepted the advice of others;" Irving further saying -that he was a "tough, sturdy, valiant, weather-beaten, mettlesome, -obstinate leather-sided, lion-hearted, generous, spirited old -Governor." - -Returning to Broadway, for a mile or more it, with the adjacent -streets, is the great retail shopping district. Here on the pleasant -afternoons are throngs of shoppers. A short distance above, Broadway -bends to the left, displaying Grace Church, with its rich marble -façade, beautiful spire, and adjoining rectory, chantry and church -house, an unique ecclesiastical group, dating from 1846, when it was -far "up town," but now almost covered-in by the huge surrounding -stores. Fourteenth Street crosses beyond, and here is Union Square, a -pretty oval park of about four acres, adorned by an ornamental -fountain and statues of Washington, Lafayette and Lincoln. Large -buildings and stores surround the square, the chief being Tiffany's -noted jewelry establishment. Fourteenth Street is a wide avenue, with -an extensive shipping trade. To the eastward of Broadway is the -Academy of Music and the noted Tammany Hall. This is the seat of the -"Tammany Society," established in 1789 for benevolent purposes, but -now controlled by the Democratic political organization ruling New -York. The Hall is a capacious brick structure with stone facings, -surmounted by a statue of its presiding genius, the old chief and -warrior of the Lenni Lenapes, St. Tammany, who with outstretched hand -beneficently looks down upon the street. The sturdy Indian, however, -was probably more used to the mild and just methods of William Penn -and his Quakers on the Delaware than to the political schemes on the -Hudson, of which fate seems to have made him a patron saint. - - -MADISON SQUARE. - -Broadway reaches Madison Square at Twenty-third Street, another wide -highway crossing the city, and also intersects Fifth Avenue, which is -the western side of the Square. This junction has a park of about six -acres, surrounded by large hotels and noted buildings, and alongside -the triangular intersection of Broadway and Fifth Avenue is a handsome -granite monument to General Worth, a hero of the War with Mexico. The -plateau on which it stands is usually availed of as the site for the -official reviewing stage for processions. This Square is the great -centre of elaborate civic and military displays, and has, with its -surroundings and the light stone of the adjacent buildings, an air -that is decidedly Parisian, it occupying much the same position for -New York as the Place de la Concorde in Paris, or Trafalgar Square in -London. In Madison Square are statues of Admiral Farragut (the finest -statue in New York), William H. Seward, President Arthur and Roscoe -Conkling. At the northwest corner of the Square was for many years -Delmonico's famous restaurant, since moved farther up town. Its owner, -after feeding wealthy New Yorkers on the choicest viands for several -decades, finally lost his mind, and in a fit of aberration wandered -over into the wilderness in New Jersey, and becoming lost in the -woods, actually died of starvation. The new Appellate Court of New -York is on the eastern side of the Square; at the northeast corner is -the Madison Square Garden, and at the southeast corner the Madison -Square Presbyterian Church, where the great clerical censor of New -York, Rev. Dr. Parkhurst, occupies the pulpit. Madison Square may be -regarded as the social centre of modern New York. Far to the northward -Fifth Avenue stretches, with its rows of palatial brownstone -residences, and towards the north-northwest Broadway extends for two -miles to Central Park, passing many hotels, theatres, and the tall -"French flats" that have been devised for residences in the crowded -city where the land surface is so scarce. It also passes, at the -intersection of Sixth Avenue, the Greeley and Herald Squares, with -statues of Horace Greeley and William E. Dodge, and the _New York -Herald_ Building. A short distance beyond is the Metropolitan Opera -House, the finest theatre in the city, rebuilt after a fire in 1893. -Broadway at Fifty-ninth Street reaches the southwest corner of Central -Park and intersects Eighth Avenue, and here is the Columbus Monument, -a tall shaft surmounted by a marble statue, erected in 1892. Broadway -then becomes the magnificent "Grand Broadway Boulevard," with rows of -trees, prolonged far northward. - - -FIFTH AVENUE. - -Fifth Avenue, one hundred feet wide, is probably the New York street -that is most talked about, for they say the main object of working so -hard to get rich in the metropolis is to be able to live in a fine -mansion on Fifth Avenue. This great highway extends northward almost -in the centre of Manhattan Island, but it has an humble beginning, -starting from the original "Potter's Field," where for many years the -outcast and the unknown were buried and over a hundred thousand -corpses are believed to have been interred. When the city spread -beyond this cemetery it was decided to make the place a park, and thus -was formed Washington Square on Fourth Street, a short distance west -of Broadway, an enclosure of about nine acres. From this Square Fifth -Avenue is laid in a straight line six miles northward, to the Harlem -River. The fine Washington Centennial Memorial Arch spans the avenue -at the southern end, near the Square, marking the Centenary of -Washington's inauguration as President. In the lower portions the -famous avenue has been largely invaded by business establishments, but -above, it is the finest residential street in the world, there being -four or five miles of architectural magnificence, in which for two -miles it borders Central Park. The street displays the best dwelling -and church architecture, the progress northward into the newer -portion showing how the styles have changed. All railways have been -carefully excluded from this street. At the southern end the older -houses are generally of brick, gradually developing into the use of -brownstone facings, and then into almost uniform rows of elaborate -brownstone buildings, with imposing porticos reached by high and broad -flights of steps. The rich yet gloomy brown is somewhat monotonous, -but as Central Park is approached this is broken, as all styles of -designs and materials are used. Fifth Avenue has the great "Methodist -Book Concern" at Twentieth Street, and in this neighborhood are also -several of the leading book houses. The wealthy and exclusive Union -Club is at Twenty-first Street, with the Lotus Club in a more modest -house adjacent. - -Northward from Madison Square the great street stretches up the -aristocratic grade of Murray Hill, with its rows of stately buildings. -Parallel and a short distance eastward is Madison Avenue, also a -street of fashionable residence, and second only to Fifth Avenue in -grandeur. At Twenty-ninth Street is the plain and substantial granite -Dutch Reformed Church, and to the eastward is an odd-looking little -church that has attained a wide reputation. It is a picturesque -aggregation of low brick buildings, set back in a small enclosure -between Fifth and Madison Avenues, and looking like a quaint mediæval -structure. Some years ago a pompous rector, when asked to read the -last prayers over the dead body of an actor, sent the sorrowing -friends to this church, saying he could not thus pray for the ungodly, -but they might be willing to do it at the little church around the -corner. The public quickly caught on, through newspaper aid, and the -result was that this attractive Church of the Transfiguration -performed the last rites in presence of an overflowing congregation, -and its official title has since been overshadowed by the popular one -of "the Little Church Around the Corner." It is much attended by the -theatrical fraternity, and contains a handsome memorial window to -Edwin Booth. - -Mounting the gentle grade of Murray Hill, we come to Thirty-fourth -Street, the locality typifying the two greatest fortunes amassed in -America before the advent of the Vanderbilts. The whole block between -Thirty-third and Thirty-fourth Streets is occupied by the towering -Waldorf-Astoria Hotel, built of brick and sandstone in German -Renaissance, and occupying the land originally the home of the Astors, -while across Thirty-fourth Street is the white marble Stewart palace. -The ancestor of the Astor family, John Jacob Astor, accumulated the -largest fortune known in this country before the Civil War, his -estates representing the early growth of New York, and the wealth -coming from the advancing value of land as the city expanded. He was a -poor German peasant-boy who came from the village of Waldorf, near -Heidelberg, to London, and worked there prior to 1783, making musical -instruments for his brother. In that year, at the age of about twenty, -he sailed for America with $500 worth of instruments, meeting a -furrier on the ship, who suggested that he trade the instruments for -American furs. This he did in New York, and returning to London, sold -the furs at a large profit. Coming back to New York, he established a -fur-trade with England, and built ships for his business. He -prospered, and at the beginning of the nineteenth century was worth -$250,000. Then he began buying land and houses in New York, built many -buildings, and was so shrewd in real-estate investments that they -often increased a hundredfold. He was liberal and charitable, and -dying in 1848, his estate, then the largest in the country, was -estimated at $25,000,000. His chief public benefaction was the Astor -Library, which his son, William B. Astor, also aided, so that besides -the buildings it has an endowment of about $1,800,000. The great Astor -estates, now represented by the fourth generation, are estimated at -over $200,000,000. - -The splendid palace at the northwest corner of Fifth Avenue and -Thirty-fourth Street was built by Alexander T. Stewart when at the -height of his fame as the leading New York merchant. Intended to -eclipse anything then known in New York, he expended $3,000,000 upon -the building and its decoration, so that this house outshone all other -New York residences until the Vanderbilt palaces were erected farther -out Fifth Avenue. Its latest occupant has been the Manhattan Club. -Stewart's fortune was accumulated through the facilities at New York -for successful trading, though much of his wealth was afterwards -invested in large buildings in profitable business localities, and -notably in great hotels. Stewart, like Astor, began his career with -almost nothing, but at a later period. He was born at Belfast, -Ireland, in 1802, studied at Trinity College, Dublin, but before -taking his degree migrated to New York as a teacher in 1818. He got -into the dry-goods trade in a small way near the City Hall Park, and -his business grew until he acquired all the adjacent buildings, and -put up the store at Chambers Street, and afterwards the retail store -farther up Broadway. Enlarging in every direction, his business became -the greatest in the country, with branches in the leading cities. He -was an extensive importer, and owned various factories making the -fabrics he sold. His business methods were profitable but unpopular, -involving the remorseless crushing of rivals, so that he had few -friends and many enemies. Yet he was charitable, sending a shipload of -provisions to relieve the Irish famine in 1846, and he made large -public gifts to aid suffering. When he died he was building on Fourth -Avenue an enormous structure intended as a "Home for Working Girls," -on which $1,400,000 were expended. It was opened soon after his -death, but with such stringent regulations that a rebellion soon arose -among the intended beneficiaries, and it had to be closed. There was a -shrewd suspicion that the difficulty came by design, for the building -was soon reopened as a hotel. Stewart had scarcely moved into his -marble palace when he died, his body being put temporarily into a -vault in the churchyard of old "St. Mark's Church in the Bowerie," -awaiting removal to the magnificent mausoleum preparing for it at -Garden City, Long Island. Then came the horrible news that the corpse -had been stolen to avenge business tyranny. The childless widow lived -in gloomy grandeur in the palace until her death, rarely seeing -visitors, and having watchmen pacing the sidewalk at all hours. -Stewart left no direct descendants, and his great business has gone, -like his estate, to strangers. - - -THE VANDERBILTS. - -The construction of the white marble Stewart palace was the first -serious innovation made upon the rich brownstone fronts of Fifth -Avenue, the possession of which was a necessary adjunct to social -standing in New York before the Civil War. The material, quarried -generally in Connecticut, was in such extensive use that it gave a -distinctive coloring to New York, its sombreness and uniformity of -architecture making most of the residential streets corridors of -gloom. For years, as a local authority described it, "our new houses -and blocks were all turned out from the same moulds, and apparently -congealed from the same coffee-colored liquid." The builders, since -the war, have made large inroads with other materials, thus giving -more individuality to the finer buildings of later construction. To -the eastward, Fourth Avenue is tunnelled for several blocks under -Murray Hill, to carry street railways up to the Grand Central Station -at Forty-second Street, the open spaces above, giving the tunnel light -and air, being surrounded by pleasant little parks, so that the -widened street, called Park Avenue, is an attractive residential -region, the view being closed to the northward by the louvre domes of -the Vanderbilt railway station. - -Continuing out Fifth Avenue, the "Old Brick Church" of the -Presbyterians, built solid and substantial, with a tall spire, stands -about on the most elevated portion of Murray Hill, the congregation -dating from 1767. A short distance beyond, at Thirty-ninth Street, is -the finest club-house in New York, the elaborate brick and brownstone -Union League Club, its spacious windows disclosing the luxurious -apartments within. Just above is the historic Vanderbilt house, where -the old Commodore lived--a wide, brownstone dwelling, having alongside -a carriage entrance into a small courtyard. The Vanderbilt fortunes, -the greatest accumulated, represent the financially expansive -facilities of modern New York as manipulated by corporation -management and the Stock Exchange. Commodore Cornelius Vanderbilt, -born on Staten Island in 1794, in 1817, at the age of twenty-three, -owned a few small vessels, and estimated his wealth at $9000. He -became a steamboat captain, and went into the transportation business -between New York and Philadelphia, afterwards broadening his -operations, and in 1848 owning most of the profitable steamboat lines -leading from New York. When the California emigration fever began, he -started ocean steamers in connection with the transit across the -Isthmus of Panama. This business grew, and at the height of his -steamship career the Commodore owned sixty-six vessels. The finest, -named the Vanderbilt, which cost him $800,000, he gave the Government -for a war vessel, to chase the rebel privateers. As American -vessel-owning became unprofitable, he determined to abandon it and -devote himself to railway management, having already bought largely of -railway stocks. When he thus changed, he estimated his fortune at -$40,000,000. He got control of various railroads leading east, north -and west from New York, buying the shares at low prices, his excellent -methods improving their earning powers, so that their value greatly -enhanced. The greatest of these corporations was the New York Central -and Hudson River Railroad. When the Commodore died his estate was -estimated at $75,000,000, left almost wholly to his son William H. -Vanderbilt. When the latter died it had reached $200,000,000, -bequeathed chiefly to his two eldest sons, Cornelius, who died in -1899, and William K. Vanderbilt. The family are now housed in a row of -palaces farther out the avenue near Central Park, and there are -fabulous estimates of their colossal fortunes, which are the greatest -in America, and probably in the world. - -Upon the west side of Fifth Avenue the New York Public Library is -being erected on the site of the old Croton Reservoir, which occupied -the summit of Murray Hill, and behind it is the pretty little Bryant -Park, extending to Sixth Avenue. This Library comes from the -consolidation of the Astor and Lenox Libraries, augmented by the -Samuel J. Tilden Trust Fund, amounting to about $2,500,000. North of -this, Forty-second Street crosses the city, having the Grand Central -Station of the Vanderbilt lines opposite Fourth Avenue, the only -railway station in New York, though other roads are expecting to come -in by tunnels under the rivers. At Forty-third Street and Fifth Avenue -is the finest American synagogue, the Jewish Temple Emanu-El, a -magnificent specimen of Saracenic architecture, the interior being -rich in Oriental decoration. Creeping plants tastefully overrun the -lower portions of its two great towers. There are numerous fine -churches on this portion of the avenue, two of which are rather more -famous than the others. When the old Dutch Governor Peter Minuit -bought Manhattan Island from the Indians, he founded an orthodox Dutch -church in 1628. This church is now a costly brownstone structure in -Decorated Gothic at the corner of Forty-eighth Street, having a -crocketed spire two hundred and seventy feet high. Its inscription -tells us it is the "Collegiate Reformed Protestant Dutch Church of the -City of New York, organized under Peter Minuit, Director General of -the New Netherlands, in 1628, chartered by William, King of England, -1696." The present church was built in 1872. Occupying the entire -block at Fiftieth Street is the magnificent white marble Roman -Catholic Cathedral of St. Patrick, in Decorated Gothic, with two -spires rising three hundred and thirty-two feet. This noble church -much resembles the great Cathedral at Cologne, particularly in the -interior. Behind it, fronting on Madison Avenue, is the Archbishop's -white marble residence, and adjacent is the old building of Columbia -College, the original King's College of New York, founded in 1754 by a -fund started from the proceeds of various lotteries, which then raised -$17,215. It now has new buildings elsewhere. - -In the neighborhood of these churches there must not be overlooked, in -this part of Fifth Avenue, the residence of Helen Gould, a -square-built house with an elaborate portico, at the corner of -Fifty-seventh Street. This was originally the home of one of the most -extraordinary men ever developed in New York--Jay Gould. He was an -orphan boy in Northeastern Pennsylvania, who became a clerk in a -country store, a surveyor and map-maker, and finally was employed in a -tannery, and to sell its leather first took him to New York. Finally -he removed there, and soon became a leading Wall Street stock -operator. Nobody ever made such daring ventures; he became the "great -bear" on the market, wrecking, pulling down, ruining; controlling -newspapers, courts, legislatures, and being even accused of trying to -bribe a President. Then, as he acquired wealth, he became an extensive -investor in railways and telegraphs, and died, leaving a fortune -estimated at $80,000,000. He is buried in a magnificent mausoleum, a -miniature of the Pantheon, in Woodlawn Cemetery, in the northern -suburbs, and his daughter Helen is trying, by her beneficent -charities, to make the best use she can of the share of the money she -inherited. Westward from Fifty-first Street are the famous Vanderbilt -palaces where most of the sons and daughters of William H. Vanderbilt -reside, five grand residences which cost $15,000,000 to build and -furnish. Standing among them is the Fifth Avenue Presbyterian Church, -said to be the largest and wealthiest in the world of this -denomination, where the late pastor, Dr. John Hall, is described as -preaching to $250,000,000 every Sunday. This is the most splendid -portion of Fifth Avenue, with grand residences all about, and as -Central Park is approached, there are also enormous apartment-houses -and huge hotels. The avenue reaches the Park at Fifty-ninth Street, -and for two miles its grand buildings face that attractive -pleasure-ground. At Seventieth Street is the Lenox Library, the -benefaction of James Lenox, and at Eighty-second Street the -Metropolitan Museum of Art, containing some of the finest collections -in the world, and patterned largely after the British Museum. Its -treasures of art and science, antiquities and museums, are valued at -$9,000,000, and it has an elaborate building fronting on Fifth Avenue, -within the Park. - - -CENTRAL PARK. - -New York is very proud of its great pleasure-ground, the Central Park, -upon which has been lavished all that art and money could accomplish. -This Park is a parallelogram in the centre of Manhattan Island, a -half-mile wide and two and a half miles long, covering eight hundred -and forty-three acres, though nearly one-fourth of this space is -occupied by the Croton water reservoirs. The original surface was -either marsh or rock, very rough, and with topography generally the -reverse of that needed for a park. It took prodigious labor and an -enormous outlay to overcome the difficulties, but skillful engineering -and landscape gardening have made the most of the unsightly surface, -so that it has become one of the handsomest parks in the world, its -beauties increasing as the growing trees mature. Entering at the -"Scholar's Gate" from Fifth Avenue, the road within the Park leads by -a gently winding course past vista views and pretty lakes to the Mall, -or general promenade. Here, on pleasant days, thousands gather to -listen to the music. To the westward are broad green surfaces giving a -tranquil landscape, and looking northward through the avenue of elms -upon the Mall, a little gray stone tower called the Observatory closes -the view far away over another pretty lake. At the end of the Mall a -terrace is crossed bordering this lake, the ground sloping to its -edges. Here a fountain plashes on one side, and on the other is the -concert ground, overlooked by the Pergola, a shaded Gallery. Across -the lake, on the Observatory side, is the Ramble, a rocky, -forest-covered slope with paths winding through it, and on the highest -point a massive Belvedere. There are a menagerie and an aviary, and -the children have playgrounds and varied amusements. Beyond this -enchanting region the road winds past statues and ever-changing -beauties of garden and landscape, and comes out in a space alongside -the smaller reservoir, where stands Cleopatra's Needle, brought from -Egypt and set up near the Museum of Art. Then the road passes -alongside the larger reservoir, with barely enough room to get through -between it and Fifth Avenue, though both are admirably masked. The -northern portion of the Park has greater natural attractions and less -ornamentation, the land ascending to a fine lookout on the western -side, where there is a grand view over the Harlem River, displaying -the tall arches of the "High Bridge" bringing the Croton Aqueduct -across, and the tower alongside, which makes a high level reservoir. -The expanding city, however, is extending its buildings over large -surfaces north and west of the Park. - -One Hundred and Tenth Street is the northern boundary of Central Park. -Upon the western side of the Park, in Manhattan Square, is being -gradually constructed the American Museum of Natural History, with -elaborate buildings and collections already exceeding $3,000,000 in -value. Near the northwestern corner of the Park, extending to One -Hundred and Twenty-third Street, is the long and narrow Morningside -Park, a high elevation held by massive retaining walls on the -hill-slope, and ascended by flights of steps. Morningside Avenue, its -western boundary, has at One Hundred and Twelfth Street what will be -the largest ecclesiastical edifice in the United States, the new -Episcopal Cathedral of St. John the Divine, of which the corner-stone -was laid in 1892, and building slowly progresses. The splendid St. -Luke's Hospital adjoins to the northward, while to the northwest, on -an elevated site overlooking the Hudson River, are the fine new -buildings of Columbia College in an enclosure of about twenty acres. -This great University has buildings and collections valued at -$7,000,000, an endowment of $12,000,000, and is attended by about two -thousand students. Farther westward, upon the high ground at the edge -of the Hudson River, stretches the stately Riverside Park for about -three miles, making a magnificent drive, along which many handsome -residences are being constructed. Near its northern end is the tomb of -General Grant, a white granite mausoleum ninety feet square and -surmounted by a cupola, which was finished in 1897 and cost $600,000. -The interior arrangement is like Napoleon's tomb in Paris, the body, -contained in a red porphyry sarcophagus, being placed in an open crypt -below the centre of the dome. Beyond Central Park, the broad public -roads known as the Boulevards traverse the island northward, and many -elaborate structures are being erected along them. - - -SPUYTEN DUYVEL AND CROTON. - -The Spuyten Duyvel Creek, the strait connecting the Harlem with the -Hudson, winds through a deeply-cut gorge around the northern end of -Manhattan and makes it an island. Knickerbocker, the veracious -historian of early Dutch New York, tells how it got its name. Old -Governor Stuyvesant, he says, had a wonderful trumpeter, Anthony von -Corlaer, who persisted in swimming across during a violent storm, and -lost his life. Thus of it, Knickerbocker writes: "The wind was high, -the elements were in an uproar, and no Charon could be found to ferry -the adventurous sounder of brass across the water. For a short -time he vapored like an impatient ghost upon the brink, and then, -bethinking himself of the urgency of his errand (to arouse the people -to arms), he took a hearty embrace of his stone bottle, swore most -valorously that he would swim across in spite of the devil--_en spyt -den duyvel_--and daringly plunged into the stream. Luckless Anthony! -Scarcely had he buffeted half-way over when he was observed to -struggle violently, as if battling with the spirit of the waters. -Instinctively he put his trumpet to his mouth, and giving a vehement -blast, sank forever to the bottom. The clangor of his trumpet, like -that of the ivory horn of the renowned Paladin Orlando, when expiring -on the glorious field of Roncesvalles, rang far and wide through the -country, alarming the neighbors around, who hurried in amazement to -the spot. There, an old Dutch burgher, famed for his veracity, and who -had been a witness to the fact, related to them the melancholy affair, -with the fearful addition (to which I am slow in giving belief) that -he saw the Duyvel, in the shape of a huge moss-bunker (a species of -inferior fish), seize the sturdy Anthony by the leg and drag him -beneath the waves. Certain it is, the place, with the adjoining -promontory which projects into the Hudson, has been called _Spyt den -Duyvel_ ever since." - - [Illustration: _Grant's Tomb, New York_] - -The narrow and elevated northern prolongation of Manhattan is the -picturesque district of Washington Heights. Here is the attractive -Trinity Church Cemetery, laid out on the battlefield of Harlem -Heights, a hotly contested Revolutionary conflict, fought on September -16, 1776, and some distance northward, on the highest point of the -island, elevated two hundred and sixty feet above the Hudson River, -there are still seen the remains of Fort Washington, which was bravely -but unsuccessfully defended against British attacks in the following -November, and had to be abandoned. Across the Harlem River is the -ancient suburb of Morrisania. Here was Washington's headquarters -during those conflicts, and here lived Lewis Morris, one of the -signers of the Declaration of Independence, and his half-brother, -Gouverneur Morris, a noted New York statesman, who bore a striking -resemblance to General Washington. The historic old house at -Morrisania was afterwards acquired by Madame Jumel, and when Aaron -Burr, in his old age and poverty, met this wealthy widow, he courted -and married her in 1833, he being then seventy-eight years old. Here -they lived for a brief period "during the days of his octogenarian -love," as the annalist has it, but soon quarrelled and separated. The -house is now preserved as a Revolutionary Museum. Not far away was the -Grange, the home of Alexander Hamilton, who planted there a group of -thirteen trees named after the thirteen original States of the Union, -in which all flourished, as we are credibly informed, excepting the -"South Carolina tree," which persisted in growing up very crooked. -Upon the top of Washington Heights and the precipitous slopes of the -Spuyten Duyvel and Harlem there are many fine villas, and down in the -bottom of the gorge the New York Central Railroad seeks its route out -to the Hudson River bank. The historic old King's Bridge spans the -Harlem, deep down in the valley, while all along the river is the fine -new drive, the "Speedway," upon which the New Yorkers display the -qualities of their fastest horses. - -The splendid Washington Bridge, built of steel at a cost of -$2,700,000, carries one of the Boulevards across the Harlem at a -height of one hundred and fifty feet; but the great landmark is the -High Bridge which brings the Croton Aqueduct over, its tall granite -piers and graceful arches displaying singular beauty from every point -of view. This aqueduct is forty miles long, and has been well -described as "a structure worthy of the Roman Empire." It originally -cost $12,500,000, subsequent improvements absorbing millions more. The -Croton River, coming down through Westchester County, falls into the -Hudson about twenty-five miles above the city, and its headwaters are -dammed, making artificial lakes gathering the supply. The Aqueduct was -finished in 1842, and, going through tunnels and rock-cuttings, has a -cross-section of about fifty-four feet and an inclination of one foot -to the mile, or thirty-three feet in the distance to the Harlem River. -About one hundred and fifteen millions of gallons go through it daily, -moving at the rate of a mile and a half per hour. Three huge pipes -carry the water across the High Bridge at one hundred and sixteen feet -elevation. There are eight arches in the river crossing, their -openings being eighty feet wide and one hundred feet high, to allow -the passage of vessels, and seven narrower arches of fifty feet span -on the banks. At the New York end of this picturesque bridge is the -tall tower, rising two hundred and sixty-five feet, which has water -pumped into its surmounting tank to supply the highest parts of the -island. New York, however, long since outgrew the capacity of this -famous aqueduct, so that a new one of much greater size was tunnelled -underground and finished in 1890, which is fourteen feet high, and -bored at an average depth of one hundred and fifty feet below the -surface, and is carried three hundred feet under the Harlem River bed, -its estimated daily capacity being three hundred millions of gallons. -The receiving reservoirs in Central Park hold over a thousand millions -of gallons. An imposing gate-house at One Hundred and Thirty-fifth -Street admits this supply into the northern city mains. The great -Quaker Bridge dam across the Croton is two hundred and seventy-seven -feet high and thirteen hundred and fifty feet long, making the most -enormous artificial reservoir in the world, holding forty thousand -millions of gallons. It has cost New York over $70,000,000 to thus -insure an ample water supply, free of all risk from drought. - - -THE BRONX AND THE NEW PARKS. - -Across Harlem River, to the north and east, is the attractive region -of the Bronx, much of the surface being yet in its primitive condition -as maintained in the old estates that have come down from the early -days of the Knickerbockers. Here are being laid out several new and -large parks. Van Cortlandt Park, near the Hudson, about four miles -north of the High Bridge, covers about eleven hundred acres, Pelham -Bay Park, on the shore of Long Island Sound, nine miles from the -Harlem, seventeen hundred and fifty acres, and the Bronx Park, between -them, six hundred and fifty acres. These three great pleasure-grounds -are being gradually developed, and the plan is to connect them with -magnificent tree-lined avenues six hundred feet wide. The western -verge of Van Cortlandt Park finely overlooks the Hudson, and it is -intended largely for military uses, with parade-grounds and -rifle-ranges. It has an attractive lake; and the quaint old mansion -where lived the Van Cortlandts, whose successive generations owned the -estate, built in 1748, is preserved as a Museum of Colonial Relics. To -the eastward, a shallow and almost aimless little stream, flowing -from above White Plains down to Long Island Sound, with many pools -and rapids, and occasionally broadening into mirror-like lakes, was -long the eastern boundary of New York City. This is the Bronx River, -coming through a green, well-watered and shaded valley, a half to -three-quarters of a mile wide, and a considerable part of this -bewitching region makes the Bronx Park, - - "Where gentle Bronx, clear, winding, flows - The shadowy banks between; - Where blossomed bell or wilding rose - Adorns the brightest green." - -The wildness and seclusion of this place, its natural charms and -romantic character, make one almost believe that New York cannot -possibly be near such an attractive wilderness. Nature seems to have -especially designed it for a park, and art cannot improve it. Huge -rocks and giant trees flourish here, among them the Delancey pine, one -hundred and fifty feet high and straight as an arrow, standing in a -prominent position and having a huge branch reaching upward upon one -side, with interlacing boughs, making it appear not unlike a gigantic -harp. The Delanceys once owned the place. A "balanced boulder" is -nearby, weighing hundreds of tons, yet very easily rocked. The Bronx -in one portion flows deep down between high, rocky walls, where the -thin-armed white birches wave their slender limbs a hundred feet above -the water. Here was an early home of the Lorillards, now a Museum and -large Botanical Garden. Here are also the grounds of the New York -Zoological Society, the animals roaming in extensive enclosures, where -they are placed, as far as possible, in their native surroundings. - -The peninsula of Throgg's Neck is the northern headland at the -entrance of East River into Long Island Sound. Beyond this, the waters -deeply indent the New York shore, and there is thrust out the green -peninsula of Pelham Neck. This is some distance beyond the Bronx. -Eastchester Bay is on the southern side of the neck; Pelham Bay beyond -it; and immediately in front City Island, reached by a long -drawbridge. To the north is Hunter's Island, connected by another -bridge. Hunter's Island and more than two square miles of the hills -and meadows adjacent on the mainland make the new park of Pelham Bay. -Various old mansions scattered over this domain were the homes of the -Hunters, Lorillards and other prominent families. The island belonged -to many generations of Hunters, and near the bridge a large gateway -has "Hunter's Island" carved on one of the marble gate-posts. Years -ago another wealthy man bought the island, and these words offending -him, he brought a marble-mason out from New York, who chiselled them -off, and carved instead the words "Higgins's Island." But after -Higgins had his day and was gathered unto his fathers, the next owner, -revering rather the antiquity of the place, had "Higgins" eliminated -and "Hunter's Island" restored, though the gate-post became quite thin -under this treatment. On the western edge of Pelham Bay Park is -Hutchinson's River, flowing down into Eastchester Bay, and recalling -the days of the Salem witchcraft. Poor Anne Hutchinson fled here to -escape burning as a witch, and on City Island built a hut on a little -cape still called Anne Hook. She lived there peacefully for a year, -harming nobody and declining every invitation to stir from her humble -abode. One day a young girl went to visit Anne, but found the hut in -ashes, and before the door lay the poor woman, where she had been -tomahawked and scalped by the Indians. No one has built a house on -Anne Hook since, and many have been the tales told of ghostly Indian -revels on bleak and rainy nights around the site of the burning hut. -On the mainland were Indian villages, and here have been found relics, -and in 1899 there was exhumed the skeleton of an Indian warrior. - - -EAST RIVER AND HELL GATE. - -The Harlem River, flowing into the East River, divides Manhattan from -Ward's Island, and this, with Randall's Island to the north and -Blackwell's Island to the south, forms the group of "East River -Islands" upon which are the penal and charitable institutions of the -great city. The chief of these are on Blackwell's Island, a long, -narrow strip stretching nearly two miles in the centre of East River, -and barely more than two hundred yards wide. It covers one hundred and -twenty acres, and has the penitentiary, almshouses, workhouses and -hospitals, the spacious buildings being of granite quarried there by -the convicts. Over on the New York City shore is the extensive -Bellevue Hospital. In cases of vagrancy and minor crimes, the offender -is said to be "sent up to the Island." Ward's Island has a surface of -two hundred acres, and here are the Lunatic Asylum and Emigrant -Hospital. Randall's Island has the institutions for children and -idiots, while upon Hart's Island, out in Long Island Sound, are -industrial schools and the pauper cemetery. The buildings are all upon -a most elaborate scale, and it costs over $2,000,000 for their annual -maintenance. A steamboat ride along East River, with these extensive -establishments and their well-kept grounds passing in review, is a -most interesting suburban excursion. - -The Long Island shore to the southward of Ward's Island is thrust out -in a way that curves and contracts the East River passage, which, -turning eastward just below where the Harlem River comes in, goes -through the famous Hell Gate to reach the Sound. Formerly, the swift -tidal currents boiled and eddied through this dangerous pass, -Hallett's Point, jutting out from Long Island, narrowing the channel, -and Pot Rock, Flood Rock, the Gridiron and other reefs making -navigation perilous. Many were the wrecks here, and frequent -ineffective efforts were made to improve the passage. The Government -finally undertook the work in 1866 under a comprehensive plan -projected by General Newton. His first task was the removal of the -Hallett's Point reef, a mass of rock projecting three hundred feet -into the stream and throwing the whole tidal current coming in from -the Sound against the great opposing rock called the Gridiron. He -first sunk a shaft upon the Point and excavated the inland side so -that it made a perpendicular wall which was curved around, and -designed for the future edge of the river. From the shaft, tunnels -were bored into the reef under the river in radiating directions, -being connected by concentric galleries. The design was to remove as -much rock as possible without letting the water in from overhead, and -then to blow the rocky roof and supporting columns into fragments and -remove them at leisure. This work began in 1869, the shaft being sunk -thirty-two feet below mean low water and the tunnels drilled out, -inclining downward under the river. In 1876 the task was finished, and -thousands of separate dynamite blasts had been placed in the roof and -supporting columns, ready for the explosion on Sunday, September 24th. -This being the greatest artificial explosion ever attempted, there was -much trepidation shown in New York for fear of the shock, while -everywhere the keenest interest was taken in the result. The blast was -entirely successful, being discharged by General Newton's little -child, who touched the electric key. The calculation had been so -accurately made that the great reef was pulverized, and the fragments -fell into the spaces excavated beneath without causing more than a -slight tremor in the adjacent region. By a similar system and more -extensive work, Flood Rock was afterwards removed from mid-channel, -the second great blast reducing it to fragments, being discharged in -October, 1885. The terrors of Hell Gate are gone, though the tide -still flows swiftly through the strait. - - -THE BROOKLYN BRIDGE. - -The growth of population on Long Island has caused various new bridges -and tunnels to be projected for crossing East River. One new bridge is -to cross at Blackwell's Island, with a pier on the island. Another now -nearly completed, and estimated to cost $10,000,000, crosses from -Grand Street to Broadway in Brooklyn. The Long Island Railroad is -arranging to bore a tunnel under East River, to be operated by -electricity, to bring its trains into New York. The East River being -the locality for most of the foreign shipping, the bridges are at high -elevations, the great Brooklyn Bridge, which crosses from City Hall -Park, being one hundred and thirty-five feet above the water. Its -massive piers are among the tallest structures about New York, rising -two hundred and sixty-eight feet. This, the largest suspension bridge -in the world, was begun in 1870 and opened for traffic in 1885. The -piers stand upon caissons sunk into the rocky bed of the river, which -is forty-five feet below the surface on the Brooklyn side and ninety -feet below on the New York side. Their towers carry four sixteen-inch -wire cables that sustain the bridge, which is built eighty-five feet -wide, giving ample accommodation for two railways, two wagon roads -also carrying electric cars, and a wide raised footway in the centre. -The bridge cost nearly $15,000,000, the distance between the piers is -about sixteen hundred feet, and its entire length between the -anchorages of the cables is three thousand four hundred and -seventy-five feet. The cable anchorages are enormous masses, each -containing about thirty-five thousand cubic yards of solid masonry. -The whole length of the bridge and its elaborate approaches is -considerably over a mile. Its projector was John A. Roebling, who died -during the early work, and its builder, his son Washington Roebling, -who caught the dreaded "caisson disease" while superintending labor -under water, and for years afterward an invalid, watched the progress -of the later work from his chamber window on Brooklyn Heights nearby. -The bridge has carried an enormous traffic, taxing its capacity to the -utmost, and its passengers average over a million a week. The view -from its raised footway is one of the most superb sights of New York, -disclosing both cities, and the extensive wharves and commerce of -East River, the Navy Yard just above, and for miles over the -surrounding region and down through the harbor to the distant blue -hills of Staten Island. - - -THE CITY OF CHURCHES. - -The Borough of Brooklyn, which has grown from the overflow of New -York, whose people are said to go over there "chiefly to sleep or be -buried," is popularly known as the "City of Churches." A large portion -of the working population of the metropolis, as well as the merchants -and business men, make it their home and dormitory, while there are -beautiful cemeteries in the suburbs peopled largely by dead New -Yorkers. Greenwood, overlooking New York harbor from Gowanus Heights -in South Brooklyn, is regarded as one of the finest American -cemeteries. In no other city can be found such an aggregation of -churches, developed in a past generation, and under the ministry of a -regiment of distinguished clergymen, then led by Beecher and Storrs, -so that the popular title was well bestowed. Brooklyn is entirely the -growth of the nineteenth century, a growth due to the inability of New -York to spread, excepting far northward. It stretches several miles -along East River and three or four miles inland, and grows rapidly. -When the century began, however, it was hard work to find three -thousand people there, and, strangely enough, they had to cross over -to New York to go to church. Just about the time old Peter Minuit was -buying Manhattan from the Indians, a band of Walloons first settled in -Brooklyn. Their descendants drove cows across East River to Governor's -Island to graze, the Buttermilk Channel between them being then -shallow enough for fording, though it is now scoured out deep enough -to float the largest vessels, the docks located where the cows then -crossed now accommodating an enormous commerce. At first a little -ferry from Fulton Street to Peck Slip, New York, accommodated the -straggling village, and it has grown into more than a dozen steam -ferries of the largest capacity, which (besides the bridge) will carry -daily a half-million people across at one cent apiece, this fleet of -packet-boats being the greatest transporters of humanity in the world. - -The Indians called the region around Wallabout Bay, and Gowanus -Mercychawick, meaning "the sandy place." When the Walloons came along, -they began settling on the shores of the bay, which they called -Waal-bogt, afterwards gradually changed to its present name of -Wallabout. In 1646 the town was organized by Governor Kieft as -Breuckelen, he appointing Jan Eversen Bout and Huyck Aertsen as -"schepens" or superintendents to preserve the peace and regulate the -community. During the Revolution the British prison-ships were moored -in the Wallabout, and it is estimated that eleven thousand five -hundred Americans, chiefly seamen, died upon them, the shores of the -bay being full of dead men's bones, which the tides for many years -washed out from the sand. In 1808 these bones were finally collected -and put in a vault near the Navy Yard, which had been established on -the bay. This is the chief naval station of the United States, -covering about eighty-eight acres, including all the available space. -There is attached a large naval hospital, while between the two is the -immense Wallabout Market, covering forty-five acres, the largest in -Brooklyn, its buildings being brick structures in the old Dutch style. - -Fulton Street is the chief highway of Brooklyn, beginning almost under -the shadow of the great Bridge. It is a broad and attractive street, -stretching six miles to the eastern edge of the city, and about one -mile from the river it passes the various city buildings, including -the Post-office, Court-house and Borough Hall, all handsome -structures. In front of the Borough Hall is a fine statue of -Brooklyn's most famous clergyman, Henry Ward Beecher. From Fulton -Street radiate several of the highways leading into the fashionable -residential quarter,--Brooklyn or Columbia Heights,--overlooking East -River, where the tree-bordered streets are lined with costly and -attractive dwellings. Here in Orange Street, in a very quiet spot, is -Brooklyn's most noted edifice, a plain, wide, unornamented brick -building, with the inscription, "Plymouth Church, 1849." Here preached -for nearly forty years, until he died in 1887, Beecher, the great -Puritan, whose family was so noted. His father, Lyman Beecher, like -the son, fought slavery and intemperance in Boston, Litchfield and -Cincinnati, and was an impressive pulpit orator. The old man was -eccentric, however, and after being wrought up by the excitement of -preaching, is said to have gone home and let himself down by playing -on the fiddle and dancing a double-shuffle in the parlor. He had -thirteen children, nearly all famous, and has been described as "the -father of more brains than any other man in America." Four sons were -clergymen and two daughters noted authoresses. Henry Ward, who ruled -Brooklyn, and Harriet, who wrote _Uncle Tom's Cabin_, were among the -great leaders of the anti-slavery movement. - -Clinton Street leaves Fulton a little beyond Orange, and passes -southward through Brooklyn Heights, being the chief street of the -fashionable district. Embowered in trees, handsome churches and -residences border it, and Pierrepont, Remsen, Montague and other noted -streets extend at right angles from it to the edge of the bluff, where -the Heights fall sharply off to the river. Here, at seventy feet -elevation, and overlooking the lower level of buildings and piers at -the water's edge, are the terraces where the finest residences are -located, having a magnificent outlook upon the harbor and New York -City beyond. The ships land their cargoes within almost a stone's -throw of the palaces. In this district there are several large -apartment-houses and various clubs, a statue of Alexander Hamilton -adorning the front of the Hamilton Club at Remsen and Clinton Streets. -Upon Remsen Street is another noted building, the Congregational -"Church of the Pilgrims," a spacious graystone edifice with towers, -its most prominent tower and spire being a commanding landmark for -vessels sailing up New York Bay. There is let into the outer wall of -this church, about six feet above the pavement, a small piece of the -original "Plymouth Rock" whereon the Pilgrims in 1620 landed in -Massachusetts Bay--a dark, rough-hewn fragment, projecting with -irregular surface a few inches from the wall. As an author, lecturer -and preacher, the veteran pastor for over a half-century, Dr. Richard -Salter Storrs, acquired wide renown. Upon Clinton Street is the -elegant Pointed Gothic brownstone St. Ann's Episcopal Church, famous -for its choir, and on Montague Street the Holy Trinity Church, its -spire rising two hundred and seventy-five feet. But almost everywhere -are churches, there being about five hundred in Brooklyn. The noted -Pratt Institute is one of the best known charities of the city, -founded and endowed by Charles Pratt, an oil prince, as a technical -school, its spacious and well-equipped buildings caring for -thirty-four hundred students. The object of this noble institution is -"to promote manual and industrial education, and to inculcate habits -of industry and thrift." - - -GREENWOOD CEMETERY AND PROSPECT PARK. - -A border of tombs almost surrounds Brooklyn, for in the suburbs are -the great cemeteries which are the burial-places of both cities. In -lovely situations upon the surrounding hills are Greenwood, Cypress -Hills, Evergreen, Holy Cross, Calvary, Mount Olivet, The Citizens' -Union, Washington and other cemeteries, occupying many hundreds of -acres. Of these, the noted Greenwood is the chief, covering some four -hundred acres on Gowanus Heights, south of the city. This is a high -ridge dividing Brooklyn from the lowlands on the south side of Long -Island, and it has elevations giving charming views. The route to it -crosses various railroads leading to Coney Island, which is the -ultimate objective point of most Brooklyn lines of transit. A neat -lawn-bordered road leads up to the magnificent cemetery entrance on -Fifth Avenue, an elaborate and much ornamental brownstone structure -rising into a central pinnacle over a hundred feet high. This entrance -covers two fine gateways, with representations of Gospel scenes, the -principal being the Raising of Lazarus and the Resurrection. The -grounds display great beauty, the ridgy, rounded hills spreading in -all directions, the surface being an alternation of hills and vales, -vaults terracing the hillsides, with elaborate mausoleums above and -frequent little lakes nestling in the pleasant valleys. Vast sums have -been expended on some of the grander tombs, which are upon a scale of -great magnificence. The attractive rural names of the walks and -avenues, the delicious flowers and foliage, the balmy air, the lakes, -valleys and points of beautiful outlook giving grand views over New -York Bay and the surrounding country, make Greenwood a park as well as -a cemetery, and it is generally admitted to be without a peer. Many -costly pantheons and chapels cover the remains of well-known people, -and one mausoleum is a large marble church. A three-sided monument of -peculiar construction standing on a knoll marks the resting-place of -Samuel F. B. Morse, the telegrapher. Horace Greeley's tomb has his -bust in bronze on a pedestal. A colossal statue surmounts the grave of -the great De Witt Clinton, the Governor of New York who built the Erie -Canal and thus secured the commercial supremacy of the city. The -romantic career of Lola Montez ended in Greenwood. Commodore Garrison, -who was at one time Vanderbilt's rival in steamship management, is -interred in a mosque. The tomb of the Steinways is a large granite -building. A magnificent marble canopy crowns the Scribner tomb, having -beneath it an angel of mercy. There is an appropriate monument to -Roger Williams. Here are also buried Elias Howe, the inventor of the -sewing-machine, Peter Cooper, Henry Ward Beecher, James Gordon -Bennett, Henry George and others of fame. The Firemen, the Pilots and -the New York Volunteers all have grand monuments, the statue sentinels -of the latter overlooking the bay. Among these magnificent sepulchres, -probably the most magnificent is that of Charlotte Canda, an heiress, -who died in early youth, her fortune being expended upon her tomb. - -There is a high lookout upon the eastern border of this attractive -place, where the flat land at the base of the ridge spreads for miles -away to the sea. The Coney Island hotels, by the ocean side, are dim -in the distance, and far over the water the Navesink Highlands close -the view beyond Sandy Hook. The many railroads leading to Coney Island -can be traced out, as on a map, across the level land. Over on the -western side of the cemetery is another lookout, having a broad view -of Brooklyn and the harbor, extending to the hills of Staten Island -and the distant Jersey lowlands beyond. This is the verge of Gowanus -Heights, with the busy commerce of the port spread at its base. It is -this magnificent scene which the marble sentinels overlook who are -guarding the Volunteers' Monument erected by the city of New York. - -Between Greenwood Cemetery and Prospect Park there are various -railways, all going to Coney Island, and also the Ocean Parkway, -leading thither, a splendid boulevard, two hundred feet wide, and -planted with six rows of trees, being flanked on either side by a -broad cycle-path. It is laid in a straight line from the southwestern -corner of the Park for three miles to the great seaside resort. -Prospect Park covers nearly a square mile on an elevated ridge on the -edge of Brooklyn, and it has great natural attractions which did not -need much change to improve the landscape, while the fine old trees -that have been there for centuries are in magnificent maturity. Its -woods and meadows, winding roads, lakes and views, combine many -charms. On Lookout Hill, rising two hundred feet, the most commanding -point, with a view almost entirely around the compass, there is a -monument on the slope in memory of the Maryland troops who fell in the -Revolutionary battle of Long Island, fought in August, 1776, on these -heights. The Park is ornamented with several statues, including one of -Abraham Lincoln, and there is a bust of John Howard Payne, the author -of _Home, Sweet Home_. It has an extensive lake, a deer preserve, -children's playgrounds, and a concert grove and promenade. The main -entrance is a fine elliptical plaza with a splendid fountain, and -adorned by a Memorial Arch to the Soldiers and Sailors of the Civil -War, and a statue of James Stranahan, a venerable citizen of Brooklyn, -foremost in all its good works, who died in 1898. The Brooklyn -Institute, an academy of art and science with a large membership, has -a large building in the Park. - - -CONEY ISLAND. - -Pretty much all routes through Brooklyn, as already indicated, lead to -Coney Island, the barren strip of white sand, clinging to the southern -edge of Long Island, about ten miles from New York, which is the -objective point of the populace when in sweltering summer weather they -crave a breath of sea air. The antiquarians of the island insist that -it was the earliest portion of these adjacent coasts discovered, and -tell how Verrazani came along about 1529 and found this sand-strip, -and how Hudson, nearly a century later, held conferences with the -Indians on the island. But however that may be, its wonderful -development as a summer resort has only come since the Civil War. It -has a hard and gently-sloping beach facing the Atlantic, and can be so -easily and cheaply reached, by so many routes on land and water, that -it is no wonder, on hot afternoons and holidays, the people of New -York and Brooklyn go down there by the hundreds of thousands. Coney -Island is about five miles long, and from a quarter-mile to a mile in -width, being separated from the adjacent low-lying mainland only by a -little crooked creek and some lagoons. It has two bays deeply indented -behind it, Gravesend Bay on the west and Sheepshead Bay on the east. -The name is derived from Cooney Island, meaning the "Rabbit Island," -rabbits having been the chief inhabitants in earlier days. The Coney -Island season of about a hundred days, from June until September, is -an almost uninterrupted festival, and nothing can exceed the jollity -on these beaches, when a hot summer sun drives the people down to the -shore to seek relief and have a good time. They spread over the miles -of sand-strip, with scores of bands of music of varying merit in full -blast, minstrel shows, miniature theatres, Punch and Judy, -merry-go-rounds and carrousels, big snakes, fat women, giant, dwarf, -midget and pugilistic exhibitions, shooting-galleries, concerts, -circuses, fortune-tellers, swings, toboggan slides, scenic railways, -and myriads of other attractions; lakes of beer on tap, with ample -liquids of greater strength; and everywhere a good-humoured crowd, -sight-seeing and enjoying themselves, eating, drinking, and very -numerously consuming the great Coney Island delicacy, "clam-chowder." -To the clam, which is universal and popular, the visitors pay special -tribute. This famous bivalve is the _Mya Arenaria_ of the New England -coast, said to have been for years the chief food of the Pilgrim -fathers. Being found in abundance in all the neighboring waters, it is -served in every style, according to taste. As the Coney Island "Song -of the Clam" has it: - - "Who better than I? in chowder or pie, - Baked, roasted, raw or fried? - I hold the key to society, - And am always welcome inside." - -The long and narrow Coney Island sand-strip may be divided into four -distinctive sections--a succession of villages chiefly composed of -restaurants, lodging-houses and hotels, built along the edge of the -beach, and usually on a single road behind it. In the past generation -the rougher classes best knew its western end or Norton's Point, a -resort of long standing. The middle of the island is a locality of -higher grade--West Brighton Beach. Here great iron piers project into -the ocean, being availed of for steamboat landings, restaurants and -amusement places, while beneath are bathing establishments. -Electricity and fireworks are used extensively to add to the -attractions, and there is also a tall Observatory. The broad Ocean -Parkway, coming down from Prospect Park and Brooklyn, terminates at -West Brighton Beach. East of this is a partially vacant, semi-marshy -space, beyond which is Brighton Beach, there being a roadway and -elevated railroad connecting them. Brighton is the third section, and -about a half-mile farther east is the fourth and most exclusive -section--Manhattan Beach. Here are the more elaborate and costly Coney -Island hotels. In all this district the power of the ocean is shown in -the effect of great storms, which wash away roads, railways and -buildings, and shift enormous amounts of the sands from one locality, -piling them up in front of another. Huge hotels have had to be moved, -in some cases bodily, a thousand feet back inland from the ocean -front, to save them, and immense bulkheads constructed for protection; -but sometimes the waves play havoc with these. Very much of the money -spent by the visitors has to be devoted to saving the place and -preventing the wreck of the great buildings. But this does not worry -the visitors so much as it does the landlords. On a hot day the vast -crowds arriving on the trains are poured into the hotels, and swarm -out upon the grounds fronting them, where the bands play. Here the -orchestras give concerts to enormous audiences. The piazzas are filled -with supper-parties, the music amphitheatres are crowded, and -thousands saunter over the lawns. As evening advances, the blaze of -electric illumination and brilliancy of fireworks are added, and the -music, bustling crowds and general hilarity give the air of a splendid -festival. The bathing establishments are crowded, and many go into the -surf under the brilliant illumination. Not a tree will grow, so that -the view over the sea is unobstructed, and out in front is the pathway -of ocean commerce into New York harbor, with the twinkling, guiding -lights of Sandy Hook and its attendant lightships beyond. What a -guardian to the mariner is the lighthouse: - - "'Tis like a patient, faithful soul - That, having reached its saintly goal, - And seeing others far astray - In storms of darkness and dismay, - Shines out o'er life's tempestuous sea, - A beacon to some sheltered lee,-- - The haven of eternity." - -The tall Observatory, on its airy steel framework, rises three hundred -feet to overlook the wonderful scene. When the top is reached, the -first impression made is by the dissonant clangor of the many bands of -music below, heard with singular clearness and much more intensity of -sound than on the ground. This discord ascends from all sorts of -structures, generally having flat pitch-and-gravel roofs, forming a -variegated carpet far below. Coney Island stretches along the ocean's -edge, with the lines of foaming surf slowly rolling in. To the -eastward, at Brighton and Manhattan Beaches, it bends backward like a -bow, with semicircular indentations where the sea has made its -inroads. To the westward, the curve of the beach is reversed, and the -extreme point of the island ends in a knob having a distinctive hook -bent back on the northern side. Behind the long and narrow strip of -sand there are patches of grass, and much marsh and meadow, spreading -away to the northward, and meandering through the marsh can be traced -the crooked little tidal creek and series of lagoons separating Coney -from the mainland. Far away northward runs the broad tree-bordered -Ocean Parkway, with the hills of Prospect Park and the tombs and -foliage of Greenwood Cemetery hiding Brooklyn, and closing the view at -the distant horizon. Various railways stretch in the same direction, -some crossing the bogs on extended trestle-bridges. Many carriages are -moving and thousands of people walking about in the streets and open -spaces beneath us, while upon the ocean side the piers extend out in -front, with their steamboats sailing to or from the Narrows to the -northward, around the knob and hook at Norton's Point. Far south over -the water are the distant Navesink Highlands behind Sandy Hook and the -low adjacent New Jersey Coast, gradually blending into the Staten -Island hills to the westward. Around from the south to the east is the -broad and limitless expanse of ocean, where, in the words of Heinrich -Heine: - - "The cloudlets are lazily sailing - O'er the blue Atlantic sea." - -Far to the eastward, seen across the broad Jamaica Bay, are more low -sandy beaches, each with its popular resort, though all pale before -the crowning glories of Coney Island. There is Rockaway, with its iron -pier and railway connecting with the mainland to the northeast, also -Arverne and Edgemere, the distant cottage-studded Long Beach, and the -hazy sand-beaches of Far Rockaway. And as we gaze over this wondrous -scene down by the water side, the freshening wind gives a pleasant -foretaste of old ocean, and recalls the invocation of Barry Cornwall: - - "The sea! the sea! the open sea! - The blue, the fresh, the ever free! - Without a mark, without a bound, - It runneth the earth's wide regions round. - - "I'm on the sea! I'm on the sea! - I am where I would ever be, - With the blue above, and the blue below, - And silence wheresoe'er I go. - - "I never was on the dull tame shore, - But I loved the great sea more and more." - - - - -THE ENVIRONMENT OF LONG ISLAND SOUND. - - - - -IX. - -THE ENVIRONMENT OF LONG ISLAND SOUND. - - The Isle of Nassau -- Captain Adraien Blok -- Roodt Eylandt -- - Block Island -- Great South Bay -- Great South Beach -- Jamaica - Bay -- Hempstead Bay -- Fire Island and its Lighthouse -- - Shinnecock -- Quogue-East Hampton -- Lyman Beecher -- John - Howard Payne -- Garden City -- Jericho -- Elias Hicks -- - Flushing Bay -- Throgg's Neck -- Willett's Point -- Little Neck - Bay -- Great Neck -- Sands Point -- Harbor Hill -- William - Cullen Bryant -- Oyster Bay -- Lloyds' Neck -- Nathan Hale -- - Ronkonkoma Lake -- The Wampum Makers -- Mamaroneck -- Byram - River -- The Wooden-Nutmeg State -- Brother Jonathan -- - Greenwich -- Old Put's Hill -- Stamford -- Colonel Abraham - Davenport -- The Dark Day -- Norwalk -- Sasco Swamp -- - Fairfield -- Pequannock River -- Bridgeport -- Phineas T. - Barnum -- Joyce Heth -- General Tom Thumb -- Jenny Lind -- Old - Stratford -- Milford -- New Haven -- Quinnepiack -- John - Davenport -- Yale College -- Killingworth -- Elihu Yale -- - Steamboat Fulton -- East and West Rocks -- The Regicides -- - Wallingford -- James Hillhouse -- Savin Rock -- Saybrook Point - -- Guilford -- Connecticut River -- The Sachem's Head -- - Thimble Islands -- Saybrook Platform -- Old Saybrook -- Thames - River -- New London -- Groton -- Silas Deane -- Fort Hill -- - Pequot Hill -- Defeat of the Pequots -- Pawcatuck -- Stonington - -- Watch Hill Point -- Westerly -- Orient Point -- Plum Island - -- Plum Gut -- Shelter Island -- The Gull Islands -- The Horse - Race -- Fisher's Island -- Gardiner's Island -- Lyon Gardiner - -- Captain Kidd and his Buried Treasures -- Sag Harbor -- - Montauk Indians -- Money Pond -- Fort Pond Bay -- Montauk Point - and its Lighthouse -- Ultima Thule -- Isle of Manisees -- Block - Islanders -- Whittier -- Palatine Wreck. - - -THE ISLE OF NASSAU. - -The first white man who sailed upon Long Island Sound was the bluff -old Dutch navigator, Captain Adraien Blok. Desirous of adventure and -spoil, he built upon the shore of the Battery, in 1614, the first ship -ever constructed at New York, a blunt-pointed Dutch sloop-yacht of -sixteen tons, which he named the "Onrest." The four little huts he had -upon the shore to house his builders and crew were among the first -structures of the early Manhattan colony. Fitting her out, he braved -the terrors of the Hell Gate passage and started on a voyage of -discovery on Long Island Sound, which he explored throughout. He found -the mouth of the principal river of New England, the Connecticut, and -coasting around Point Judith, entered Narragansett Bay, and cast -anchor before an island with such conspicuously red-clay shores that -he called it Roodt Eylandt, or the Red Island, on which Newport now -stands. Then he ventured out to sea and found the bluff shores of -Block Island, to which he gave his own name. Sated with exploration -and loaded with spoil exchanged with the Indians, he then returned to -New York and told of his wonderful adventures. His was the first -vessel, manned by white men, known to have sailed upon the -"Mediterranean of America," as Long Island Sound is popularly called. -This grand inland sea is generally from twenty to thirty miles wide, -and is enclosed by Long Island, the ancient Isle of Nassau of the -Dutch, stretching for one hundred and thirty miles eastward from New -York harbor, and being likened to a fish lying upon the water. It has -a generally bluff northern shore along the Sound, and the southern -coast, which is low and level almost to the eastern extremity, lies -nearly due east and west, the island finally breaking into a chain of -narrow peninsulas and islands facing the rising sun. The southern -border is a continuous line of broad lagoons, separated from the -Atlantic by long and narrow sand-bars. The chief lagoon is the Great -South Bay, eighty miles long, fronted by the curious formation of the -Great South Beach, stretching its entire length, and from one to five -miles wide. Upon the outer beaches, and within the lagoons, are a -succession of noted seashore resorts. Eastward, beyond Jamaica Bay and -Rockaway, is Long Beach, and behind it Hempstead Bay. Then come Jones' -Beach and Oak Island, with Massapequa, Amityville and Lindenhurst -behind them. Then we are at Babylon and Bayshore, with the Great South -Bay fronted by Fire Island, and beyond it the long sand-strip of the -Great South Beach. The famous lighthouse of Fire Island, the guiding -beacon to New York, one hundred and sixty-eight feet high, is flanked -by summer hotels, and its flashing electric light of twenty-three -million candlepower is the most powerful on the Atlantic Coast. The -Great South Bay spreads far eastward past Patchogue to Moriches, and -then comes Quogue and the Hamptons, where the level land rises into -the Shinnecock hills. At the eastern extremity are Amagansett and -Montauk. It is a long coast, fringed with lights to point the -mariner's way into New York harbor. - -They tell us that when the "Onrest" came into the Sound there were -thirteen tribes of Indians on Long Island, and that it was the mint -for the aborigines, these tribes being the great makers of wampum, the -Indian money, for which its beaches and bays furnished the materials. -The Montauks, on the eastern end, were the most formidable, and were -usually carrying on wars with the Pequots, across the Sound in New -England. Out on Shinnecock Neck is the reservation where live the -small remnant of the Shinnecock tribe, there being barely a hundred of -them, each family in a little house on a little farm it tills. Around -Jamaica Bay once lived the Jameko tribe, all now disappeared. At -quaintly named Quogue, Daniel Webster used to go fishing and bathing. -The hill tops of the Hamptons have perched upon them the picturesque -old Dutch windmills which are so attractive to the artists, and at -East Hampton still stands the venerable gabled house where lived Lyman -Beecher in his earlier ministry, and where his elder children, -Catharine and Edward Beecher, were born. Here also passed his boyhood, -before he began wandering over the earth, the author of _Home, Sweet -Home_, John Howard Payne, his father being the village schoolmaster. -Payne's quaint little shingled cottage is East Hampton's most sacred -memorial. The inhabitants of East Hampton are so much in love with -their healthy home, which dates from 1648, that on its two hundred and -fiftieth anniversary, celebrated in 1898, the announcement was made -that they "like East Hampton in a thick fog better than any other -place in full sunshine." Eastward from Jamaica, in the western centre -of Long Island, are Creedmoor, the noted rifle range, Hempstead, where -the New York troops were mobilized in 1898 for the Spanish War, and -Garden City, the model suburban town laid out by Alexander T. Stewart, -containing a handsome Episcopal Cathedral. Not far away is Hicksville, -and to the northward the ancient town of Jericho. This was a tract -bought from the Indians by Robert, the brother of Roger Williams, in -1650, which afterwards became a place of Quaker settlement, and here -lived and preached for sixty years the famous Elias Hicks, the founder -of one of the Quaker sects. He was an opponent of war and of slavery, -and rode all over the country as a missionary preacher. - - -THE NORTHERN LONG ISLAND SHORE. - -The steamboat entering Long Island Sound from New York, after passing -Hell Gate and crossing Flushing Bay, emerges from the strait of East -River between Throgg's Neck and Whitestone. Upon the end of Throgg's -Neck, the jutting point has the graystone ramparts and surmounting -earthworks of its ancient guardian, Fort Schuyler. Thrust forward from -the Long Island shore, as if to meet it, is the protruding headland of -Willett's Point, the Government torpedo station. Here also is an old -stone fort down by the waterside, with the extensive ramparts of a -modern fort on the bluff above. These are the defensive works -commanding the approach to New York from Long Island Sound. In the -neighboring havens are favorite anchorages for yachts. Beyond are the -expansive waters of the Sound, and far off southward, thrust into the -land, are the deep recesses of Little Neck Bay, made famous by its -clams, and protected to the eastward by the curiously bifurcated -peninsula of Great Neck. The northern Long Island shore is very -irregular, and rises into hills. Bold peninsulas and deep bays form -it, the surface being corrugated into hillocks and valleys, and -penetrated by narrow, shallow harbors. The waves of the Sound have -eroded the shores into steep and often precipitous bluffs of gravel, -sometimes rising a hundred feet above the water, where narrow beaches, -strewn with boulders, border them. At Sands Point is a great peninsula -protruding in high sandy bluffs, and behind it is the highest mountain -on Long Island, Harbor Hill, rising three hundred and fifty feet above -the village of Roslyn, at the head of the deeply indented -Hempstead Harbor, where lived at his home of Cedarmere, for many -years, William Cullen Bryant, who now sleeps in the little cemetery. - - [Illustration: _William Cullen Bryant at "Cedarhurst," Roslyn_] - -Oyster Bay is deeply indented into the land to the eastward, -surrounded by villas and attractive homes, and beyond protrudes the -broad, high headland of Lloyds' Neck. This was strongly fortified by -the British in the Revolution, and King William IV., then the youthful -Duke of Clarence, was at one time an officer of the garrison. It was -attacked and captured by the Americans who came over from Connecticut -in 1779, the garrison being taken prisoners. Subsequently the British -again took possession, and the French from Newport attacked them in -1781, but were repulsed. The hero of Oyster Bay is Captain Nathan Hale -of Connecticut, whose statue stands in New York City Hall Park. He had -been sent by Washington in 1776, across the Sound, to examine the -British defenses of Brooklyn, and, returning, was captured by some -Tories at Oyster Bay, and the next day hanged in New York as a spy. -Though but twenty-one years old, he met his fate bravely, saying: "I -only regret that I have but one life to give for my country." The -British destroyed his farewell letters, the provost-marshal saying -"that the rebels should not know they had a man in their army who -could die with so much firmness." Oyster Bay was bought in 1653 from -the Matinecock Indians by a Pilgrim colony from Sandwich, -Massachusetts, and a treaty made at Hartford established it as the -boundary between the Dutch of New York and the English of New England. -To the eastward are Huntingdon, Setauket and Port Jefferson, popular -resorts, and inland are Jerusalem and Islip, the latter settled and -named in the seventeenth century by emigrants from old Islip, -Oxfordshire, England. Here is the famous Ronkonkoma Lake, so named by -the Indians from the white sand of its shores. It is a pretty sheet of -fresh water among the forests, about a mile in diameter, of great -depth, and has neither inlet nor outlet, though its surface level -regularly rises and falls every four years. Here lived the chief -wampum makers, the Secatogue and Patchogue tribes. Their wampum mainly -consisted of the thick blue part of clam shells, ground into the form -of bugle beads, and strung upon cards a foot long. - - -ENTERING NEW ENGLAND. - -Coming out of New York on the northern shore of Long Island Sound, the -land is found to be profusely sprinkled with outcropping rocks, a -development so universal that to one place the Indians gave the name -of Mamaroneck, meaning "the place of rolling-stones." These rocks are -gathered into piles for fences, which cross the surface in all -directions, and it requires serious effort to till the stony land. -About twenty-five miles from New York is the Byram River, the -Connecticut boundary, the old saying being that New England stretches -"from Quoddy Head to Byram River." This original Yankee land, though -the smallest section of the United States, has made the deepest -impress upon the American character. They have not enjoyed the -agricultural advantages of other sections, the bleak climate, poor -soil and lavish distribution of rocks and sterility making farming -hard work with meagre results, so that the chief Yankee energy has -been devoted to the development of manufactures, literature, commerce -and the fisheries; this wonderful race who have had to practically -live by their wits having admirably succeeded. Crossing Byram River -brings us into the "Land of Steady Habits," Connecticut, the -"Wooden-Nutmeg State," the special home of "Yankee Notions," which -gave the country the original personation of "Brother Jonathan" in -Governor Jonathan Trumbull, who was so useful to General Washington. -Consulting him in many emergencies, Washington was wont to remark, -"Let us hear what Brother Jonathan says," a phrase finally popularly -adopted by making him the national impersonation. - -Connecticut has the great Puritan College of the country--Yale--ruled -by the Congregationalists. It has varied manufactures, to which its -abundant water-powers contribute, and in which nearly all its people -are engaged, its methods being largely the inventions of its own -sons, of whom three are prominent--Eli Whitney of the cotton-gin, -Samuel Colt of the revolver, and Charles Goodyear of india-rubber -fame. When De Tocqueville was in America, he was much impressed by the -development of the inventive genius, education and political force of -the State, which he described as a little yellow spot on the map, and -at a dinner he proposed a toast, saying, in his quaint, broken -English: "And now for my grand sentiment: Connect-de-coot--de leetle -yellow spot dat make de clock-peddler, de school-master and de -Senator; de first give you time, de second tell you what to do with -him, and de third make your law and civilization." Connecticut gets -more patents proportionately than any other State, one to eight -hundred inhabitants being annually granted; it makes clocks for all -the world, and leads in india-rubber and elastic goods, in hardware -and myriads of "Yankee notions," besides being well in the front for -sewing-machines, arms and war material. It is named after the chief -New England river, and its rugged surface is diversified by long -ridges of hills and deep valleys, running generally from north to -south, being the prolongation of mountain ranges and intervales that -are beyond the northern border. The picturesque Housatonic comes from -the Massachusetts Berkshire hills down through the western counties; -the centre is crossed by the Connecticut Valley, which has great -fertility and beautiful scenery, while in the eastern section the -Quinnebaug River makes a deep valley, and, flowing into the Thames, -seeks the Sound at New London. These many hills make many streams, all -having water-powers, around which cluster numerous busy factories. - -The southwestern town of Connecticut is Greenwich, and in front -Greenwich Point is thrust out into the Sound, while, as the Yankee -land is entered by railway, on a high hill stands the Puritan outpost, -seen from afar--a stately graystone Congregational Church with its -tall spire. The ancient Greenwich village was built on the hillside at -Horse Neck, and it was here, in 1779, that General Putnam swiftly -galloped down the rude rocky stairway leading from the old church, to -get away from the British dragoons, on what has since been known as -"Old Put's Hill," and they were too much astonished either to chase or -shoot him. Beyond is Stamford, a busy factory town, where lived in the -eighteenth century Colonel Abraham Davenport, described as "a man of -stern integrity and generous benevolence." He was a legislator, and -when, on May 19, 1780, the memorable "Dark Day" came in New England, -some one, fearing it was the day of judgment, proposed that the House -adjourn. Davenport opposed it, saying, "The day of judgment is either -approaching, or it is not; if it is, I choose to be found doing my -duty; I wish therefore that candles may be brought." This scene has -been immortalized by Whittier. The town of Norwalk is beyond, another -nest of busy mills, spreading upward on the hill-slopes from the -Sound. The original settlers bought from the Indians in 1640 a tract -extending "one day's north walk" from the Sound, and hence the name. -Fine oysters are gathered in the spacious bay, and the people make -shoes and hats, locks and door-knobs. On the lowlands to the eastward -the Pequot Indian nation, once ruling all this part of New England, -the name meaning "the destroyers," was finally overpowered in 1637 by -the Colonial troops in the Sasco Swamp, now a cultivated farm, with -almost the only highly fertile land seen in the immediate region. Most -of the Pequots were captured and sold as slaves in the West Indies. -Beyond is tranquil Fairfield, embowered in trees and introduced by a -rubber-factory, its green-bordered streets lined with cottages, and -church-spires rising among the groves, while along the shore it has -the finest beach on Long Island Sound. - - -BRIDGEPORT, OLD STRATFORD AND MILFORD. - -Pequannock, the "dark river" of the Indians, flows out of the hills to -an inlet of the Sound, where the enormous mills of the active city of -Bridgeport have gathered a population of over fifty thousand people, -in a hive containing some of the world's greatest establishments for -constructing sewing-machines and firearms, building carriages, and -making cutlery, corsets and soaps, while other goods also occupy -attention. The grand Seaside Park esplanade overlooks the harbor, and -towards the north the city stretches up the slopes into Golden Hill, -named from its glittering mica deposits, where magnificent streets -display splendid buildings. When the Pequots were exterminated in -1637, colonists founded this town, gradually crowding the Paugusset -Indians, who owned the land, into a small reservation on Golden Hill. -The great establishments to-day are the Wheeler and Wilson and Howe -Sewing-Machine Works, Sharp's Rifle Factory and the Union Metallic -Cartridge Company; and Bridgeport is also the headquarters of the -chief American circus. The stately and high-towered mansion of -Waldemere fronts the park, and was the home of Bridgeport's best-known -townsman, the veteran showman, Phineas T. Barnum. Born in Connecticut, -at Bethel, in 1810, he died at Bridgeport in 1891. He first developed -the financial advantages of amusing the public, and possibly -humbugging them on a grand scale, and by working upon his oft-quoted -theory that "the people liked to be humbugged," twice amassed a large -fortune. In early life he wandered over the country earning a -precarious livelihood in various occupations, and in Philadelphia in -1834 began his career as a showman. He bought for $1000 a colored -slave-woman, Joyce Heth, represented to be the nurse of George -Washington and one hundred and sixty-one years old. From her -exhibition his receipts reached $1500 a week, and she died the next -year. In 1842 he began exhibiting Charles S. Stratton, "General Tom -Thumb," a native of Bridgeport, born in 1832, whose size and growth -were as usual until his seventh month, when he had a stature of -twenty-eight inches, and ceased to grow. Barnum exhibited him in the -United States, France and England, and attracted world-wide notoriety. -Barnum started the American fashion of paying extravagant sums to -opera-singers, in 1849 engaging Jenny Lind to sing at one hundred and -fifty concerts in America for $1000 a night, the gross receipts of a -nine months' tour being $712,000. He subsequently had his fortune -swept away through endorsing $1,000,000 notes for a manufacturing -establishment that went down in the panic of 1857. His fortunes were -revived, however; he had museums in the leading cities, and in his -later life had the "Greatest Show on Earth," which set out every -spring from Bridgeport. Tom Thumb in 1863 married Lavinia Warren of -Middleboro', Massachusetts, a dwarf like himself, and he died in 1882. - -To the eastward a short distance, and in sharp contrast with active -Bridgeport, is quiet old Stratford, with Stratford Point protruding in -front into the Sound, at the entrance of the stately and placid -Housatonic, which comes down through the meadowland just beyond the -village. Here there are neither watering-place hotel nor busy factory -to disturb the ancient order of things, encumber the greensward, or -encroach upon the sleepy and comfortable houses, where one may dream -away in the twilight, under the shade of grand trees that are even -older than the town. Stratford is much the same now as when settled by -a Puritan colony from Massachusetts in 1639, the leader and pastor -being Adam Blackman, whom Cotton Mather called "a Nazarite purer than -snow and whiter than milk." Across the patches of marshland, adjoining -the Housatonic, is Milford, its half-mile-long stretch of village -green neatly enclosed, and its houses upon the bank of the silvery -Wap-o-wang, back of which spread the wide streets lined by rows of -overarching elms. A colony from Milford in England settled here in -1639 and soon crowded the Indians off the land, establishing the -primitive church, which was the usual beginning of New England -settlements. Then, true to the American instinct, they proceeded to -hold a convention, the result being the adoption of the following -platform: - -_Voted_, That the earth is the Lord's and the fulness thereof. - -_Voted_, That the earth is given to the saints. - -_Voted_, That we are the saints. - -They had a good deal of trouble afterwards, both with the Dutch from -New York and the Indians, but the saints ultimately possessed the -earth in peace, and their successors are now making straw hats for -the country. - - -THE CITY OF ELMS. - -The city of New Haven, the most populous in Connecticut, having a -hundred thousand people, is built upon a plain, surrounded by hills, -at the head of a deep bay extending several miles northward from Long -Island Sound. The magnificent elms, arching over the streets and the -Public Green, and grandly rising in stately rows, make the earliest -and the deepest impression upon the visitor. In one of his most -eloquent passages, Henry Ward Beecher said that the elms of New -England are as much a part of her beauty as the columns of the -Parthenon were the glory of its architecture. The grand foliage-arched -avenues of New Haven are unsurpassed elsewhere, so that they are the -crowning glory as well as the constant care of the townsfolk. Among -the finest is the avenue separating the Yale College grounds from the -Public Green--a magnificent Gothic aisle of the richest -foliage-covered interlacing boughs. The Indian name for the region -round about New Haven was Quinnepiack, and the placid Quinnepiack -River, coming from the northward, flows through a deep valley past the -towering East Rock into the harbor. Old John Davenport was the leader -and first pastor of the infant colony that settled here. He was a -powerful Anglican parish pastor of London who had joined the Puritans, -and in 1637 was forced to leave for New England with many of his -people. They spent a year in Boston, but in April, 1638, sailed around -Cape Cod to the Sound, and landed at Quinnepiack, where they laid out -a town plan with nine squares for buildings, surrounding a large -central square, the Public Green. At the foundation, Davenport -delivered a most impressive sermon from the text, "Wisdom hath builded -her house; she hath hewn out her seven pillars;" and from this came -the original scheme of government for the colony by the seven leading -church members, who were known as the "seven pillars." The colony got -on well with the Indians, who revered Davenport, calling him "so big -study man." They bought the whole tract of one hundred and thirty -square miles from the Indians for thirteen coats. At first, however, -they did not prosper, their trading ventures proving unfortunate, and -they determined to abandon the place and remove elsewhere, selecting -Jamaica, and afterwards Galloway in Ireland. The ship carrying their -prospectors to Ireland sailed in January, 1647, but was never heard -from afterwards, save when, as the legend has it, "the spectre of the -ship sailed into the harbor in the teeth of a head-wind, and when in -full view of the anxious people, it slowly melted into thin air and -vanished." Then they decided to remain, and getting on better, in 1665 -united their plantation with that of Connecticut at Hartford, under -the condition that each should be a capital, a compact observed until -1874, when Hartford was made the sole capital. The British in July, -1779, attacked and partly burnt and plundered the town, the Americans -galling them by desultory attacks as they passed through the streets. -They captured Rev. Naphtali Daggett, President of Yale College, musket -in hand, and with repeated bayonet-thrusts forced him to guide them. -When he was wearied and sore from wounds they asked, "Will you fight -again?" He sturdily answered, "I rather believe I shall if I have an -opportunity." Being forced to pray for the King, he did it thus: "O -Lord, bless thy servant King George, and grant him wisdom, for thou -knowest, O Lord, he needs it." - -The great fame of New Haven comes from Yale College, having two -hundred and fifty instructors and over twenty-five hundred students, -the orthodox Congregational University of New England, which for two -centuries has exerted a most advantageous and widely diffused -influence upon the American intellectual character, and around it and -its multitude of buildings of every kind clusters the town. In the -year 1700 ten clergymen planned to have a college in the colony of -Connecticut, and for the purpose contributed as many books as they -could spare for its library. In 1701 it was chartered, and began in a -very small way at Saybrook, at the mouth of Connecticut River, during -the first year having only one student. The pastor of the adjacent -village of Killingworth was placed in charge, and for several years -the students went there to him, though the commencements were held at -Saybrook, and in 1707 the college was located at Saybrook. -Subsequently, for a more convenient location, it was removed to New -Haven, the first commencement being held there in 1718, and its first -building being named Yale College, in honor of Elihu Yale, a native of -the town, born in 1648, who went abroad, and afterwards became -Governor of the East India Company. He made at different times gifts -of books and money amounting to about five hundred pounds sterling, -the benefactions being of greater value because of their timeliness. -His name was afterwards adopted in the incorporation of the -university. Timothy Dwight and Theodore D. Woolsey were perhaps the -greatest Presidents of Yale, and among its graduates were Jonathan -Edwards, Eli Whitney, Samuel F. B. Morse, Benjamin Silliman, Noah -Webster, John C. Calhoun, J. Fenimore Cooper, James Kent, William M. -Evarts, John Pierpont and Samuel J. Tilden. The College buildings are -of various ages and styles of architecture, the original ones being -the plain "Old Brick Row" on College Street, northwest of the Public -Green, behind which what was formerly a large open space has been -gradually covered with more modern structures. The line of ancient -buildings facing the Green has a venerable and scholarly aspect, -stretching broadly across the greensward, fronted by noble elms -arranged in quadruple lines along the street. One of these houses, -Connecticut Hall, was built with money raised by a lottery, and from -the proceeds of a French prize-ship in the colonial wars, when -Connecticut aided the King by equipping a frigate. There are on the -campus statues of the first rector, Abraham Pierson, President Woolsey -and Professor Silliman. Various elaborate buildings are also upon -adjacent grounds, such as the Peabody Museum, the Sheffield Scientific -School, of four halls; the Divinity Halls, Observatory, Laboratory and -Gymnasium, while the entrance to the campus from the Public Green is -by an imposing tower-gateway known as Phelps Hall. The Peabody Museum -has one of the best natural-history collections in the country, and -the College Library approximates three hundred thousand volumes. -Besides the Academic Department, Yale has schools of Science, Law, -Medicine, Theology and the Fine Arts, and its properties and -endowments exceed $10,000,000, the grounds occupying nine acres. - - -NEW HAVEN ATTRACTIONS. - -But New Haven is much more than Yale College. It is a great hive of -industry, manufacturing all kinds of "Yankee notions," with -agricultural machinery, corsets, scales, organs, pianos, carriages, -hardware and other things, and it has a large commerce along the -coast and with the West Indies. It was to New Haven that the first -steamboat navigating Long Island Sound went from New York in March, -1815, the Fulton, which occupied eleven hours in going there, and -fifteen hours in returning two days later, being delayed by fog, -subsequently, however, making the trip in less time. This boat was -constructed by Robert Fulton, and carried a figure-head of him on her -bow. She was one hundred and thirty-four feet long, and of three -hundred and twenty-seven tons, built with a keel like a ship, having a -sloop bow, and being rigged with one mast and sails to accelerate her -speed. She was managed by Elihu S. Bunker, and her ability to pass -through Hell Gate against a tide running six miles an hour was -regarded as one of the marvels of that time. The New York _Evening -Post_ of March 25, 1815, describing her, said, "We have been assured -that this establishment has cost $90,000, and we believe it may with -truth be affirmed that there is not in the whole world such -accommodations afloat as the Fulton affords. Indeed, it is hardly -possible to conceive that anything of the kind can exceed her in -elegance and convenience." Many were the races she had with the -"packet-sloops" that plied on the Sound and often beat her, when the -wind was fair. - -There are tastefully adorned suburbs surrounding New Haven, where the -hills afford charming prospects. The two great attractions, however, -are the bold and impressive promontories known as the East and West -Rocks, which are high buttresses of trap rock, lifting themselves from -the plain on each side of the town in magnificent opposition, and -rising four hundred feet. The geologists say they were driven up -through the other strata, and some people think these grim precipices -in remote ages may have sentinelled the outflow of the Connecticut -River, between their broad and solid bases, to the Sound. Each -tremendous cliff is the termination of a long mountain range coming -down from the far North. The Green Mountain prolongation, stretching -through ridges southward from Vermont, is represented in the West -Rock, while the East Rock terminates the Mount Tom range, through -which the Connecticut River breaks its passage in Massachusetts, and -part of which rises a thousand feet in the "Blue Hills of -Southington," which are the most elevated portion of Connecticut. Thus -projected out upon the plain, almost to Long Island Sound, the summits -of these two huge rocks afford grand views. In the Judge's Cave, a -small cleft in a group of boulders on the West Rock, the three -regicides, Goffe, Whalley and Dixwell were in hiding for some time in -1661, and the three streets leading out to this rock from the city are -named after them. It is recorded that a man living about a mile away -took them food until one night a catamount looked in on them, and -"blazed his eyes in such a frightful manner as greatly to terrify -them." Dixwell's bones repose upon the Public Green at the back of the -"Centre Church," which stands in the row of three churches occupying -the middle of the Green that was the graveyard of colonial New Haven, -and Whalley is buried nearby. - -There is a grand approach to the East Rock, which is elevated high -above the marshy valley of Mill River, winding about its base, and -upon the topmost crag is a noble monument reared to the soldiers who -fell in the Civil War. The whole surface of the East Rock is a park, -and upon the face of the cliff the perpendicular strata of -reddish-brown trap stand bolt upright. From this elevated outpost -there is a charming view over the town spreading upon the flat plain, -and the little harbor stretching down to the Sound; and beyond, across -the silvery waters, can be traced the hazy hills of Long Island, -twenty-five miles away. Two little crooked rivers come out of the deep -valleys on either side of the great rock, winding through the town to -the harbor, while all about, the country is dotted with flourishing -villages. Among them is Wallingford, to which the railway leads -northeast amid meadows and brickyards until it reaches the high hill, -whose church-towers watch over the population, largely composed of -plated-ware makers. When this town was founded, John Davenport came -out from New Haven and preached the initial sermon from the -appropriate text, "My beloved hath a vineyard on a very fruitful -hill." - -Hillhouse Avenue, a broad and beautiful elm-shaded street bordered by -fine mansions, leads out to the "Sachem's Wood," which was the home of -the Hillhouses, of whom James Hillhouse was the great Connecticut -Senator after the Revolution. His remains repose in the old Grove -Street Burying-Ground, where rest many other famous men of the -Academic City, among them Timothy Dwight, Lyman Beecher, Samuel F. B. -Morse, Benjamin Silliman, Elbridge Gerry, Roger Sherman, of whom -Jefferson wrote that he "never said a foolish thing in his life," Eli -Whitney, and Noah Webster, who, before he compiled his famous -dictionary, had published the "Elementary Spelling Book," which had a -sale of fifty millions of copies. The New Haven City Hall, fronting -the Green, is one of the finest municipal buildings in New England. -The three churches occupying the centre of the Green are the North, -the Centre, and Trinity churches, the first two Congregationalist and -the last Episcopal, the row presenting a curiously quaint and ancient -appearance. The favorite resort of the people of New Haven is Savin -Rock, a promontory four miles away, pushing a rocky front to the Sound -at the end of a long sandy beach, and having a good view, being -located westward from the harbor entrance. - - -OLD SAYBROOK. - -The Connecticut River flows into Long Island Sound thirty-three miles -east of New Haven at Saybrook Point. Between is the venerable village -of Guilford, where Fitz Greene Halleck was born, and where the three -regicides were also for some time hidden. Out in front is the bold and -picturesque Sachem's Head, which got its name from a tragedy of the -Pequot War in 1637. The Mohican chief Uncas pursued a Pequot warrior -out on this point, and shooting him, put his head in the fork of an -oak tree, where it remained many years. The group of Thimble Islands -are off shore, having been repeatedly dug over by deluded individuals -searching for the buried treasures of Captain Kidd. Saybrook Point was -the place of earliest settlement in Connecticut. The first English -patent for lands on these coasts was granted to Lord Saye and Seal and -Lord Brooke, and the colony was given their double name. The original -settlement was planned with great care, as it was expected to become -the home of noted men, and a fort was built on an isolated hill at the -river's mouth. According to the British historian, it was to Saybrook -that Cromwell, Pym, Hampden and Haselrig, with their party of -malcontents, intended to emigrate when they were stopped by the order -of King Charles I. Had this migration been made, it might have greatly -changed the subsequent momentous events in England ending with the -execution of that king. A little westward of the old colonial fort -guarding the river entrance, a public square was laid out, where, -according to the town plan, their houses were to have been built. The -first Yale College at Saybrook was a narrow one-story house eighty -feet long, and looking much like a ropewalk, which was afterwards -removed, with the college, to New Haven. Its founders were pious men, -who in 1708 drew up the celebrated "Saybrook Platform," with a -declaration that "the churches must have a public profession of faith, -agreeable to which the instruction of the college shall be conducted." - -The ancient fort at Saybrook, built by Plymouth people in 1635, stood -upon a steep and solitary knoll near the Connecticut River, which in -1872 was carried off bodily by a railroad to make embankments across -the adjacent lowlands. The earliest governor of the colony came out in -1636, Colonel Fenwick, afterwards one of the regicide judges. Old -Saybrook is now a quiet village, chiefly spread along one handsome -wide street, canopied over by the arching branches of its stately -elms, under which the distant vista view looks almost like a scene -through a veritable foliage tunnel. The broad Connecticut flows in -front, back and forth with the tide from the Sound, its restfulness in -keeping with the ancient town, as yet uninvaded by business bustle or -manufacturing energy. The Saybrook fort repelled the Pequots in 1637; -and afterwards, in the Connecticut boundary disputes with the Dutch at -New York, the latter, according to the veracious chronicler, marched -against it "brimful of wrath and cabbage," but seeing it would be -stoutly defended, he adds that "they thought best to desist before -attacking." The British captured it in 1814, and ascending the river -in a sudden raid, destroyed a large number of vessels. - - -THE THAMES TO THE PAWCATUCK. - -The river Thames, coming down out of the hills and receiving the -Quinnebaug, flows into the Sound twenty miles east of the Connecticut, -and here is the pleasant city of New London, with about fifteen -thousand people. Thus the early settlers renewed in the New England -colony the names of old London and Father Thames, replacing the -original Indian titles of Pequot for the town and Mohegan for the -river. New London is built on a hillside, famous for comfortable old -mansions and noble trees on the hilly streets, running down the -declivity to the harbor, in the upper part of which is a navy yard. On -either side of the harbor entrance are the gray walls and grassy -mounds of the ancient defensive works, Forts Griswold and Trumbull, -which got their chief scars during the Revolution. The most sacred New -London memory is of Nathan Hale, who lived there, his little house -being preserved as a relic. The Thames is a fine estuary, and upon it -are sailed the great Yale and Harvard boat-races. New London was the -headquarters of the Connecticut navy during the Revolution, a fleet of -twenty-six vessels. After Arnold's treason, he came in September, -1780, with ships and a large force of troops, captured Fort Trumbull -and burnt the town. Afterwards they attacked Fort Griswold across the -river, losing large numbers in storming it, and when the garrison had -surrendered they were massacred. A fine granite Obelisk contains the -names of the slain, and bears the inscription: "Zebulon and Naphtali -were a people that jeoparded their lives till death in the high places -of the Lord." The people of New London go down to the Sound for -recreation and clam-bakes, the wide-spreading beaches having numerous -hotels and summer cottages. All this region in the early times was the -home of the Niantic Indians, a clan of the Narragansetts, their sachem -being Ninigret, the brother of Canonicus and uncle of Miantonomoh, -whose names are preserved in powerful American warships. - -Beyond the Thames is Groton, known as the home of Silas Deane, the -early American diplomatist, a hilly township, with little good soil. -On its verge are Fort Hill, where Sassacus, the sachem of the Pequots, -had his royal fortress, and Mystic, with the popular resort of Mystic -Island just off shore. To the northward of Mystic is Pequot Hill, -where Colonel Mason attacked that tribe in May, 1637. He had marched -out of Rhode Island with ninety English and over four hundred Mohicans -and Narragansetts under the sachems Uncas and Miantonomoh, but when -they arrived at the Pequot stronghold, the Indian allies were afraid -to attack and drew off. Nothing daunted, Mason and his colonial -soldiers prepared to do the work alone, and as a preliminary knelt -down in prayer. At the sight of this, another sachem, Wequash, who had -been their guide, was amazed and asked an explanation, and when he -understood it, became so impressed that he was converted, afterwards -preaching throughout New England. Mason and his men assaulted the -stronghold in the darkness, and got inside the palisades, but being -overwhelmed by the superior numbers, fell back after setting fire to -the wigwams. The fire compelled the Pequots to flee, and then the -English and friendly Indians surrounded the hill and shot down the -fugitives, there being six hundred Pequots shot or burnt, this being -the death-blow to the tribe. Old Cotton Mather, who recorded it, -wrote: "It was a fearful sight to see them frying in the fire, and the -streams of blood quenching the same, and horrible was the stink and -scent thereof; but the victory seemed a sweet sacrifice, and they gave -the praise thereof to God." Sassacus, from Fort Hill, sent -reinforcements, but they were too late, although they harassed Mason's -retreat, and Sassacus was soon forced also to flee, the remnant of the -Pequot tribe being killed or captured in Sasco Swamp. - -This region was Pawcatuck, and its chief town now is Stonington, built -on a fine harbor, near the Rhode Island boundary, which is protected -by the protruding arm of Watch Hill Point, the whole coast thereabout -being filled with summer hotels and cottages. Stonington is on a -narrow rocky peninsula, and of this town, in the early part of the -nineteenth century, President Dwight of Yale College wrote, referring -to its reputation, that "Stonington and all its vicinity suffers in -religion from the nearness of Rhode Island." The place was bombarded -for three days, in 1814, by a British fleet, but all attempts to land -were successfully repulsed. Watch Hill Point is a high bold -promontory, with sand beaches stretching both ways and hooking around -westward so as to enclose Stonington harbor. To the eastward is -Westerly on the Pawcatuck River, noted for its fine granite quarries -and textile factories. - - -EASTERN LONG ISLAND. - -From the Long Island shore, opposite the mouth of Connecticut River, -there protrudes northeastward an elongated and almost bisected -peninsula, ending in Orient Point. The eastern end of Long Island -divides into two arms, this being the northern one, having at its -outer extremity Plum Island, the passage between being the famous -"Plum Gut," a short cut occasionally taken by cunning yachtsmen racing -around Long Island. Orient Point was originally the "Oyster Pond -Point," its name having been modernized, and Plum Island, covering -more than a square mile, is said to have been bought from the Indians -by the first colonists in 1667 for a hundred fish-hooks and a barrel -of biscuit. A succession of islands stretches out from it over -northeastward towards the Rhode Island shore, and these guard the -entrance to the Sound. The southern arm of Long Island extends much -farther eastward than the northern one, and ends in Montauk Point. -Enclosed between these branching peninsulas is Shelter Island, thus -appropriately named from its well protected harbors. It is a delicious -island, about four by six miles in extent, picturesque and irregular -in outline, having cliffs and promontories dropping off into tiny -coves and bays with little beaches, their shores rich with the -attractions that shells and sea mosses give. In the interior are -rolling hills and fresh-water ponds. Out in front on either hand are -the blue waters of Peconic and Gardiner's Bays, with the broad -Atlantic beyond. This island was the home of the Manhasset Indians, -and that was its early name. To its hospitable shores fled some of the -persecuted Quakers of New England, when driven out by the Puritans, -the settlement being made as early as 1652. The records tell that in -the eighteenth century George Whitefield came and preached here with -such fervor and success that he was constrained to ask, "And is -Shelter Island become a Patmos?" It is in a delightful location, and -from the breezy hill-tops which have a grand outlook over the azure -waters there can be seen a vision - - "----of islands that together lie - As quietly as spots of sky - Amongst the evening clouds." - -The array of islands guarding the entrance to the Sound beyond Plum -Island begins with Great Gull and Little Gull Islands, the latter -marking the edge of the "Horse Race," as the rapid tidal current in -and out of the Sound between Little Gull and Fisher's Island is -called. This Race is off the mouth of the Thames River, beyond which -is Fisher's Island, nearer the Connecticut shore, an island nine miles -long, and forming a sort of barrier protecting the Thames entrance -from the ocean storms. This elongated island, covering about twelve -square miles, was originally "Ye Governour's Farme of Fyscher's -Island," owned by Governor John Winthrop of Connecticut, to whom it -was granted in 1668, remaining in his family for two centuries, when a -wealthy New Yorker bought it for a stock-farm. The adjacent waters are -now a favorite locality for United States naval evolutions. To the -eastward of Shelter Island, and lying in front of Gardiner's Bay, is -Gardiner's Island, covering about six square miles, and having a long -protruding northern point stretching up towards Plum Island. This -island was the Indian Monchonock, and Lyon Gardiner, the first -Englishman who settled anywhere in the State of New York, came along -in 1639, and bought it from them for some rum and blankets, a gun and -a large black dog, and his descendants have since been the owners. He -was a veteran of Cromwell's wars, and always had the confidence of the -Indians. Gardiner's Island was a favorite resort of the noted -freebooter Captain Kidd, and while thousands of people at many places -have at various times searched for his buried treasures, this is the -only place that anything was ever found. Kidd was the son of a -Scottish clergyman, became a mariner, and was sent from New York in an -armed vessel to chase the pirates off the coast. Succeeding admirably, -he was placed at the head of a new ship, the "Adventure," with one -hundred and fifty men, and sent to chastise the freebooters in the -East Indies. But after rounding the Cape of Good Hope and entering the -Indian Ocean he turned pirate himself, crossing the Indian and Pacific -Oceans, rounding Cape Horn, sailing up the Atlantic, and sweeping the -West Indies. In two years he circumnavigated the world, became the -most famous pirate in history, and landed at Gardiner's Island, -burying his treasures. He was afterwards captured in Boston and sent -to London, where he was hanged in 1701 on a charge of murder. The Earl -of Bellamont, Governor of Massachusetts, took from Kidd part of his -plunder, and learning the hiding-place on Gardiner's Island, had the -locality dug up, recovering gold, silver, jewels and merchandise, -valued at $70,000. Kidd's exploits are commemorated in a song which is -of world-wide renown, thus beginning: - - "I'll sing you a song that you'll wonder to hear, - Of a freebooter, lucky and bold-- - Of old Captain Kidd--of the man without fear, - How himself to the devil he sold. - - "His ship was a trim one as ever did swim, - His comrades were hearty and brave,-- - Twelve pistols he carried, that freebooter grim, - And he fearlessly ploughed the wild wave." - -To the southward of Shelter Island, on the southern peninsula of Long -Island, is the well-protected roadstead of Sag Harbor, formerly a -famous whaling port, but most of its maritime glory has departed. -Massachusetts fishermen first settled the place, and it had at one -time a fleet of over forty whale ships, earning $1,000,000 a year; but -the California gold-hunting fever in 1849-50 is said to have diverted -its mariners and began the paralysis of this industry, which -subsequently died out almost everywhere. It has about two thousand -people, and its admirable situation has made it an attractive summer -resort, while it is also developing some manufactures. On the -peninsula to the southward are perched various old-time windmills, -with their broad gyrating sails, in the wide-spreading land of the -Hamptons. Far to the eastward the peninsula stretches out to Montauk -Point, the end of Long Island. Here is the reservation of the remnant -of the Montauk Indians, their name meaning the "Fort Country," as they -were the most powerful tribe on the island, and made some defenses in -their hilly region. The Sachem Wyandance who was at their head when -the white men came, in the seventeenth century, was wise and -sagacious, and became their firm ally, fighting the Pequots and their -other enemies. In all the adjacent waters vast numbers of menhaden are -caught. Here was located the camp, in 1898, where the American troops -returning from the torrid heats and malaria of the Cuban-Spanish war -recuperated, over thirty thousand men being cared for previously to -discharge. Captain Kidd was at one time around here also, and is -supposed to have sunk bags of treasure in one of the little lakes, -which has since been called Money Pond, but none was ever found there. -Fort Pond Bay, a spacious harbor on the northern side of Montauk -Point, has been often suggested as a haven for transatlantic steamers, -being safe and commodious. The plan suggested is to bring the -passengers by fast railway trains from New York. Out on the eastern -rocky buttress of Montauk Point is the tall white lighthouse tower, -containing a most powerful Fresnel light, the gift of the French -Government, visible for twenty miles at sea, its intense white light -varied by occasional flashes. This is the guiding beacon of the -eastern extremity of Long Island, and the solid buttress on which it -stands Mrs Sigourney calls-- - - "Ultima Thule of this ancient isle, - Against whose breast the everlasting surge, - Long travelling on and ominous of wrath, - Forever beats." - - -THE ISLE OF MANISEES. - -Fifteen miles northeast of Montauk Point, out in the ocean, is Block -Island, lying midway between the extremity of Long Island and Point -Judith, on the western side of the entrance to Narragansett Bay. It is -about eight miles long, with a prominent white light for a beacon on -each end, north and south, and is a curious isolated place amid the -rolling waves of the Atlantic. Its balmy climate and equable -temperature have made it a favorite summer resort, being popularly -called the "Bermuda of the North," while some of its admirers say it -is destined to become the American Isle of Wight. It was known to the -Indians as Manisees, the "Isle of the Little God," and when the whites -first came, its aboriginal people were great wampum makers. The -Puritans campaigned on the island, defeating the Indians, and in 1638 -they sent sixty feet of wampum to Boston for tribute, but the English -did not permanently settle there till 1661. It is an elongated island, -with high bold shores, abrupt hills, narrow valleys and sundry ponds, -one, the "Great Salt Pond," near its centre, being of considerable -size. The surface, however, is entirely destitute of trees, and the -only harbor is behind the protecting refuge of a breakwater, built -some time ago by the Government. As the ocean waves are always -buffeting and washing away the shores, its ultimate total -disappearance is predicted, but this impending fate is said not to -seriously alarm the inhabitants, who are, by the way, almost all -Baptists. Until recently, so little was actually known of these Block -Island folk, who were nearly all born there, and relatives, that a -strong belief was prevalent on the adjacent mainland that the genuine -native Block Islanders had only one eye apiece. They are strange and -antiquated, and many of the old people have never been off the island. -Some of them recall as a wonderful journey taken years ago, in early -youth, how they ventured so far away from home as to sail "across to -the Continent," as they call the remainder of the United States. They -gather sea-weed, which brings them quite a revenue, and dig peat, -which is largely used for fuel. Their little stone-walled fields, -ancient windmills and lily-strewn ponds are picturesque, and their -ancestors are buried in the ancient burying-ground, which visitors -find interesting, and then climb Beacon Hill to get a view that is -unique in being an almost complete circle of the sea. This attractive -place, swept by ocean breezes, is the eastern outpost of Long Island, -and no better idea of it has ever been given than by Whittier's poem -on the Palatine wreck, opening by describing Block Island: - - "Leagues north, as fly the gull and auk, - Point Judith watches with eye of hawk; - Leagues south, thy beacon flames, Montauk! - - "Lonely and wind-shorn, wood-forsaken, - With never a tree for Spring to waken, - For tryst of lovers or farewells taken, - - "Circled by waters that never freeze, - Beaten by billow and swept by breeze, - Lieth the island of Manisees, - - "Set at the mouth of the Sound to hold - The coast lights up on its turret old, - Yellow with moss and sea-fog mould. - - "Dreary the land when gust and sleet - At its doors and windows howl and beat, - And Winter laughs at its fires of peat! - - "But in summer-time, when pool and pond, - Held in the laps of valleys fond, - Are blue as the glimpses of sea beyond; - - "When the hills are sweet with brier-rose, - And, hid in the warm, soft dells, unclose - Flowers the mainland rarely knows; - - "When boats to their morning fishing go, - And, held to the wind and slanting low, - Whitening and darkening, the small sails show,-- - - "Then is that lonely island fair; - And the pale health-seeker findeth there - The wine of life in its pleasant air. - - "No greener valleys the sun invite, - On smoother beaches no sea-birds light, - No blue waves shatter to foam more white!" - - - - -ASCENDING THE HUDSON RIVER. - - - - -X. - -ASCENDING THE HUDSON RIVER. - - Hudson River Scenery -- Fort Washington -- Fort Lee -- The - Palisades -- Piermont -- Greenwood Lake -- Tuxedo Lake -- Font - Hill -- Yonkers -- Philipse Manor -- Mary Philipse -- Hastings - -- Dobbs's Ferry -- Tappan Zee -- The Flying Dutchman -- - Tarrytown -- André and Arnold -- Tappan -- Irvington -- - Sunnyside -- Washington Irving -- The Sleepy Hollow -- Ichabod - Crane -- Point-no-Point -- Rockland Lake -- Sing-Sing -- Croton - Point -- Haverstraw Bay -- Stony Point -- Treason Hill -- - Verplanck's Point -- The Highlands -- The Donderberg and its - Goblin -- Peekskill -- Anthony's Nose -- Iona Island -- West - Point -- Forts Clinton and Montgomery -- Sugar Loaf Mountain -- - Buttermilk Falls -- Constitution Island -- Susan Warner -- - General Kosciusko -- Beverly House -- Arnold's Treason -- Old - Cro' Nest -- Flirtation Walk -- The Storm King -- Mount Taurus - -- Joseph Rodman Drake -- The Culprit Fay -- Cornwall -- - Fishkill -- Newburg Bay -- Newburg and Washington's - Headquarters -- Ural Knapp -- The Tower of Victory -- Enoch - Crosby, the Spy -- The Devil's Dance Chamber -- The Long Reach - -- Poughkeepsie -- Lakes Mohonk and Minnewaska -- Vassar - College -- Crom Elbow -- Rondout -- Kingston -- Esopus -- - Rhinebeck and Rhinecliff -- Ellerslie -- Rokeby -- Wilderscliff - -- Montgomery Place -- Plattekill Clove -- Saugerties -- - Livingston Manor -- Clermont -- Chancellor Livingston -- - Fulton's First Steamboat -- Catskill Mountains -- Natty Bumppo - -- Rip Van Winkle -- Slide Mountain -- Kaaterskill Clove -- - Kaaterskill Falls -- Haines's Falls -- The Big Indian -- City - of Hudson -- The Dutch -- New Lebanon -- The Shakers -- Mother - Ann Lee -- Kinderhook -- Stuyvesant Landing -- Martin Van Buren - -- Schodack -- The Mohicans -- Beeren Island -- The Overslaugh - -- The Patroons -- The Van Rensselaers -- The Anti-Rent War -- - Albany -- New York State Capitol -- Albany Medical College -- - Calvin Edson -- Albany Academy -- Prof. Joseph Henry -- Dudley - Observatory -- Van Rensselaer Mansion -- Vanderheyden Palace -- - Lydius House -- Balthazar Lydius -- Anneke Jans Bogardus -- - Albany Regency -- Schuyler Mansion -- Erie Canal Basin -- Troy - -- The Monitor -- Mohawk River -- Stillwater -- Schuylerville - -- Burgoyne's Defeat -- General Fraser's Death -- Round Lake -- - Ballston Spa -- Saratoga Lake and Town -- High Rock Spring -- - Sir William Johnson -- Saratoga Hotels -- Saratoga Springs -- - Congress Spring -- Hathorn Spring -- Mount McGregor -- Fort - Edward -- Israel Putnam -- Jenny McCrea -- Baker's Falls -- - Sandy Hill -- Quackenboss' Adventure -- Glen's Falls -- Last of - the Mohicans -- Hawkeye -- Sources of the Hudson -- The - Adirondack Wilderness -- Hendrick Spring -- The Tear of the - Clouds -- Indian Pass -- Tahawas, the Sky-Piercer -- Schroon - Lake -- The Battenkill. - - -THE HUDSON RIVER SCENERY. - -The noble Hudson is one of the most admired of American rivers. It -does not possess the vine-clad slopes and ruined castles and quaint -old towns of the Rhine, but it is a greater river in its breadth and -volume and the commerce it carries. It has scenery fully as attractive -in the Palisades and Highlands, the Helderbergs and Catskills, and on -a scale of far more grandeur, while the infinite variety of its shores -and villas and the many flourishing river towns are to most observers -more pleasing. A journey along the Hudson presents ever varying -pictures of rural beauty, in mountain, landscape, field and village; -at times almost indescribably grand, and again entrancing in the -autumn's gorgeous coloring of the forest-clad slopes, and the -brilliant picture under our clear American skies. George William -Curtis, voicing the opinion of most of our countrymen, is -enthusiastic about the Hudson, saying: "The Danube has in part -glimpses of such grandeur, the Elbe sometimes has such delicately -pencilled effects, but no European river is so lordly in its bearing, -none flows in such state to the sea. Of all our rivers that I know, -the Hudson with this grandeur has the most exquisite episodes. Its -morning and evening reaches are like the lakes of a dream." The Hudson -may not have as many weird and elfish legends as so many historic -centuries and the mythical preceding era have gathered upon the annals -of the Rhine, but its beauties, tragedies and folklore have been a -favorite theme, and the romantic and poetic fancies of Irving, Drake -and Cooper, with many others, have given it plenty of fascinating -literature and picturesque incident. Oliver Wendell Holmes thus sings -the praises of the Hudson: - - "I wandered afar from the land of my birth, - I saw the old rivers renowned upon Earth; - But fancy still painted that wide-flowing stream, - With the many-hued pencil of infancy's dream. - - "I saw the green banks of the castle-crowned Rhine, - Where the grapes drink the moonlight and change into wine, - I stood by the Avon, whose waves, as they glide, - Still whisper his glory who sleeps by their side. - - "But my heart would still yearn for the sound of the waves, - That sing as they flow by my forefathers' graves; - If manhood yet honors my cheek with a tear, - I care not who sees it--nor blush for it here. - - "In love to the deep-bosomed stream of the West, - I fling this loose blossom to float on its breast; - Nor let the dear love of its children grow cold, - Till the channel is dry where its waters have rolled." - - -THE PALISADES. - -In ascending the Hudson from New York, there are passed on either hand -the heights which were covered in early Revolutionary days with the -defenses of New York, Fort Washington and Fort Lee, but beyond the -names no trace of either fort remains. The British captured both in -the latter part of 1776, and afterwards held them. Fort Lee is now a -favorite picnic ground. Above it rises the great wall of the -Palisades, the wonderful formation built up of columned trap rock that -extends along the western river bank for twenty miles up to Piermont, -this rocky buttress making the northern limit of New Jersey on the -Hudson River. Occasionally a patch of trees grows upon the tops or -sides of the Palisades, while the broken rocks and _débris_ that have -fallen down make a sloping surface from about half-way up their height -to the water's edge. These columns rise in varying heights from three -to five hundred feet. This grand escarpment of the Palisades is a -giant wall along the river bank, sometimes cut down by deep and narrow -ravines, through which the people behind them get brief peeps at the -picturesque stream far below. Their general surface makes a sort of -long and narrow table-land, barely a half-mile to a mile wide, -dividing the Hudson from the valley of the Hackensack to the westward, -the top being usually quite level, and in most cases having a growth -of trees. These desolate-looking Palisades are a barrier dividing two -sections of country seeming in sharp contrast. To the westward, the -inhabitants lead simple pastoral lives in a region of farm land and -dairies. To the eastward, the opposite shore of the Hudson is a -succession of villas and fashionable summer resorts, whither the New -York people come out, seeking a little rest and freshness after the -season's dissipation. From the tops of the Palisades are admirable -views both east and west, displaying some of the finest sunrises and -sunsets seen along the great river. Extensive blasting operations, to -get the building-stone and paving material for which they form -valuable quarries, are marring the beauty of the Palisades, but legal -arrangements are maturing for their preservation. Their highest -elevation, the Indian Head, not far above Fort Lee, rising five -hundred and ten feet, has been ruined by these blasts, which at times -will break off many thousand tons of rock at a single explosion. - - [Illustration: _Palisades of the Hudson_] - -The rocky buttress of Piermont, the termination of the Palisades on -the Hudson, gets its name from a pier, a mile long, which is extended -from the shore at the foot of the mountain out to deep water, and a -branch of the Erie railway terminates here. This line runs inland -northwestward through a fine country. Over there is Greenwood Lake, -known as the "miniature Lake George," a beautiful river-like body of -water, ten miles long and a mile wide, almost entirely enclosed in the -mountains, and presenting extremely picturesque scenery. This lake is -at a thousand feet elevation, with clear and deep spring water, and in -the neighborhood are the smaller but as charming Lakes Wawayanda, -Macopin and Sterling. The long look over mountain and vale causing an -expression of surprise in broken English from an Indian gazing upon -the attractive prospect, is said to have named the first of these -pretty little lakes;--"Away, way, yonder," he said, but it sounded -like "Wa-wa-yanda," and the name has since clung to it. Not far away, -among these mountains, is Tuxedo Lake, the fashionable resort of the -Tuxedo Park Association, also reached by the Erie railway. This club -of wealthy New Yorkers has made a paradise among the Allegheny -foothills, with game-preserves, golf-links, club-house, and many -cottages for the members. - -Above Spuyten Duyvel Creek the western Hudson River shore presents the -monotonous front of these Palisades, stretching for miles apparently -without a sign of active life; but the eastern bank is a far different -picture of undulating hills, with gentle slopes to the water's edge, -and covered in every eligible position with an endless variety of -villas, presenting every phase of artistic taste and the development -of abundant wealth. These summer homes upon the Hudson are among the -crowning glories of the ever-changing river scene. Here is the famous -Font Hill, now the Convent of Mount St. Vincent. In 1850 the tragedian -Edwin Forrest built it for his home, a mediæval graystone castle, with -moat and drawbridge and six battlemented towers; but he held it only a -few years, when he quarrelled with his wife, and sold the estate for -$100,000 to the Sisters of Charity of the Order of St. Vincent de Paul -for their Mother House, which had to remove from the site of Central -Park in New York. The cross now surmounts the tallest castle tower, -and it is surrounded by noble trees which have grown higher than the -turrets, while on the hill behind, and almost overshadowing the little -castle, is a huge red-brick convent building. Lawns slope down to the -shore, and there are superb river views, with the grand wall of the -Palisades rising high in front. - -Yonkers is seventeen miles above New York, a galaxy of castellated and -ornamental mansions fringing the town about, upon the amphitheatre of -hills surrounding the flat depression on which it is mainly built. The -little Neperhan or Sawmill River pours down a series of rapids through -it before reaching the Hudson, with factories bordering the banks, -while the great Vanderbilt railway, the New York Central, with a -half-dozen sets of rails, runs along the front of the town. Here are -now forty thousand people, in sharp contrast with the time when -Hendrick Hudson, exploring the river, anchored in front of the little -Indian village of Napperhamok, or the "Rapid Water." Curiosity brought -them out in canoes to examine his ship, the "Half Moon," and he bought -oysters and beans, saying he found them "a loving people who attained -great age." The Dutch early bought land from these Indians for a -settlement, and it became the domain of Patroon Vanderdonck, who set -the town going under the name of Yonk-heer, or the "young master," -meaning the heir of the family. Then the English came along and it -became the "Philipse Manor," the old stone manor house built in 1682 -being the antiquarian attraction, and used now as a sort of City Hall, -a Soldiers' Monument standing in front. This was a manor of -twenty-four thousand acres stretching along the river from Spuyten -Duyvel up to the Croton. The third of the English lords of the manor -was Fredericke Philipse, who was a shrewd aristocrat, and during the -Revolution tried the difficult political game of a neutral, desirous -of keeping on the winning side. But neither party trusted him, and -although Washington had been his guest in the famous old manor house, -yet he was attainted of treason by the State of New York, his great -manor confiscated, cut up into small tracts and sold. The romance of -Yonkers is the love story of his daughter, Mary Philipse, the "belle -of the Hudson Valley." Tradition tells of her as the first love of -Washington, but he wooed in vain, and she married another. Cooper made -her the heroine of his novel _The Spy_. - -The lands of this manor are among the most prized locations on the -Hudson. Magnificent estates cover the sloping eastern bank, with -hundreds of villas of all kinds and styles, fortunes being expended -upon their elaborate decoration. Highly ornamental grounds upon the -hillsides and terraces surround costly houses, built to reproduce -palaces, churches, castles, baronial halls and old manors, with some -sombre buildings not unlike tombs. There is every conceivable -structure the florid imagination of an architect can fashion into a -dwelling, some being of great size. They show up prettily among the -trees, and some are thrust out upon crags almost overhanging the -river, others nestle far back in clefts, and still others are set high -upon the slopes. Amid the grand display is the villa-environed and -exclusive town of Hastings-on-the-Hudson; and a mile above, and still -in the gilded colony, is the village of Dobbs's Ferry. It got its name -from the venerable John Dobbs, a Swede, who came over from the -Delaware River to run the ferry during the Revolution. Not long ago -some of the modern aristocrats of the place got ashamed of their old -Dobbs heritage and sought to change the name to Paulding. Then came a -sharp controversy, fanned into fever heat by the sensational warriors -of the New York newspapers. Soon, however, the Pauldingites -surrendered, old Dobbs was vindicated, and Dobbs's Ferry the place -remains. It was here in the Livingston Mansion, in 1783, that Generals -Washington, Carleton and Clinton met to finally settle the terms of -English recognition of American independence. Two miles above is -Irvington, with more elaborate villas. This favored region of the -Hudson is the choicest abiding-place of the New York multi-millionaires, -and a newspaper scribe on one occasion counted in the space of six -miles above Hastings the rural homes of sixty-three men whose -aggregate wealth was estimated at more than $500,000,000. The single -million fellow no longer cuts a figure in such a galaxy. On an -eminence near Irvington stood the country house of the wealthiest of -them, loftily situated, a white stone building with a tall tower, -having very attractive surroundings. This was the Paulding Manor of -Lyndehurst, the home of Jay Gould. - - -THE TAPPEN ZEE. - -Over opposite, the grand terminating buttress of the Palisades, -Piermont, compresses the river channel, the rocks then receding, so -that to the northward it broadens into the beautiful lake of the -Tappan Zee. Here is the boundary dividing New Jersey from New York, -and the long ridge, retiring from the river, stretches inland some -miles, encircles the town of Nyack, and comes back to the river some -distance above in an abrupt elevated cliff known as Point-no-Point. -This lake is over four miles wide, and is the scene of the legend of -"The Flying Dutchman of the Tappan Zee." Irving tells us that often in -the still twilight of a summer evening, when the sea would be as -glass, and the opposite hills threw their shadows half across it, a -low sound would be heard, as of the steady vigorous pull of oars, -though no boat could be seen. Some said it was a whale-boat of the -ancient water-guard, sunk by the British ships during the war, but now -permitted to haunt its old cruising-grounds. But the prevalent opinion -connected it with the awful fate of "Rambout Van Dam of graceless -memory." He was a roystering Dutchman of Spuyten Duyvel, who in a time -long past navigated his boat alone one Saturday the whole length of -the Tappan Zee to attend a quilting-party at Kakiat, on the western -shore. Here he danced until midnight, when he started home. He was -warned it was the verge of Sunday morning, but he went off, swearing -he would not land until he reached Spuyten Duyvel, if it took him a -month of Sundays. He was never seen afterwards, but may still be -heard, plying his oars, being "the Flying Dutchman of the Tappan Zee, -doomed to ply between Kakiat and Spuyten Duyvel until the day of -judgment." There is also another legend of a stout, round, Dutch-built -vessel of the olden time, with high bow and stern, sailing up New York -harbor in the teeth of wind and tide. She never returned down the -Hudson, but the Dutch skippers plying the river often saw her, -sometimes along the Palisades, or off Croton Point, or in the -Highlands, but never above them. Sometimes it was by the lightning -flashes of a storm upon a pitchy night, and giving glimpses of her -careering across the Tappan Zee or the wide waste of Haverstraw Bay. -Sometimes on quiet moonlight nights she would lie under a high bluff -in the Highlands, all in deep shadow, excepting her topsails -glittering in the moonbeams. She appeared always just before or after -or during unruly weather, and all the skippers knew her as the "Storm -Ship." Some maintained this phantom was the "Flying Dutchman," come -from the Cape of Good Hope into more tranquil waters. Others held it -to be Hendrick Hudson and the shadowy crew of the "Half Moon" sailing -to their revels in the Catskills. We are told by Irving that "she -still haunts the Highlands and cruises about Point-no-Point. People -living along the river insist they sometimes see her in summer -moonlight, and that in a deep still midnight they have heard the chant -of her crew as if heaving the lead." - -Tappan Village, naming the Tappan Zee, is some distance back from -Piermont. Over on the eastern bank, nearly opposite Nyack, is -Tarrytown, the "Torwen-Dorp" or "Wheat-Town" of the ancient Dutch, -which has gradually changed to the present name. The genial Irving, -never at a loss for a reason for the names of places along the river, -tells how the good housewives named it Tarrytown because of their -spouses' propensity to linger in the village tavern on market days. It -is now one of the most elegant places on the Hudson, notable for its -splendid villas. The attractive region about the Tappan Zee is full of -Revolutionary memories, and particularly of the great historic tragedy -made by the treason of Arnold and the capture of André. Major John -André, at the age of twenty-nine, in 1780, was Adjutant General of the -British Army, then commanded by Sir Henry Clinton in New York. On -September 20th André came to Dobbs's Ferry to meet Arnold, with whom -he had been in secret correspondence in reference to the surrender of -West Point, where Arnold commanded. The next night he met Arnold at -Stony Point, just below the Highlands, and started back with Arnold's -passport and documents enabling the British to so direct an attack -upon West Point as to capture it. These papers were in Arnold's -handwriting, and at his suggestion André concealed them between the -soles of his feet and his stockings. André tried to make his way down -the eastern side of the Hudson to New York in disguise, taking the -Tarrytown road, through what was then known as the "neutral ground," -which was overrun by marauders from both armies. When within a -half-mile of Tarrytown, at a little stream since called André's -Brook, he was captured by Paulding, Williams and Van Wert, three -American scouts, whom he mistook for his own partisans, and they -searched him and found the treasonable papers. Rejecting all bribes, -they took him across the Hudson to Tappan, then the American army -headquarters, where he was condemned and hanged as a spy on October -2d. The old house wherein he was imprisoned still stands in Tappan, -and his remains were interred there until 1821, when they were -conveyed to Westminster Abbey, London. - - -THE HOME OF WASHINGTON IRVING. - -Near Irvington is Sunnyside, long the home of the famous and genial -Washington Irving. In the early days this house was built by a cynical -Dutch councillor named Wolfert Acker, who inscribed over the door, -"Lust in Rust,"--meaning "pleasure in quiet,"--whence the English -called it "Wolfert's Roost." As the Spanish Escurial had been modelled -after the famous gridiron of the blessed Saint Lawrence, so this loyal -councillor is said to have modelled his house after the cocked hat of -the doughty Dutch Governor, Peter the Headstrong. The old house with -its quaint Dutch gables became in time the castle of Baltus Van -Tassel, and being held by Jacob Van Tassel, an active American -partisan during the Revolution, the British sacked and burned it. The -eastern front is overrun by ivy given Irving by Sir Walter Scott at -Abbotsford, and originally from Melrose Abbey. The great author lived -here from 1846 until his death in 1859, and his pen has immortalized -the neighborhood. Nearby is the sequestered vale of Slaeperigh Haven, -famed in the "Legend of the Sleepy Hollow." Not far from Tarrytown, he -writes, there is a little valley, or rather a lap of land among high -hills, one of the quietest places in the whole world. A small brook -glides through it with just murmur enough to lull one to repose; and -the occasional whistle of a quail or tapping of a woodpecker is almost -the only sound that ever breaks in upon the uniform tranquility. At -the opening of this hollow, by the side of a winding lane, stands the -ancient Dutch church, which is the oldest religious house in New York -State. It is a curious little building with a diminutive spire -enclosing a bell with the inscription, "Si . Deus . Pro . Nobis . -Contra . Nos . 1685"--If God for us, who against us. It was built of -bricks brought out from Holland, and in the ancient and mossy -graveyard, almost under the shadow of the old church, Irving is -buried. He lies upon a beautiful sunny slope, whence one can look into -the Sleepy Hollow, and also far over the lovely Tappan Zee and its -pleasant surroundings, a spot he selected for his tomb. Longfellow -thus sweetly sings of this modest grave: - - "Here lies the gentle humorist, who died - In the bright Indian Summer of his fame - A simple stone, with but a date and name, - Marks his secluded resting place, beside - The river that he loved and glorified. - Here in the autumn of his days he came, - But the dry leaves of his life were all aflame - With tints that brightened and were multiplied. - How sweet a life was his; how sweet a death! - Living, to wing with mirth the weary hours, - Or with romantic tales the heart to cheer; - Dying, to leave a memory like the breath - Of summer, full of sunshine and of showers, - A grief and gladness in the atmosphere." - -Only a short distance from the church is the old bridge made famous in -the legend describing the escapade of the schoolmaster, Ichabod Crane, -with his "soft and foolish heart toward the sex." In his love he had a -rival in the stalwart and muscular Brom Bones. The legend tells us -that Ichabod taught the Dutch urchins of these parts, and at the same -time paid court to old farmer Van Tassel's daughter, the fair Katrina. -Brom Bones, otherwise Brom Van Brunt, determined to drive him away. -One dismal night Ichabod left the Van Tassel mansion in very low -spirits. In the hush of midnight he could hear the watchdog bark, -distant and vague, from the far opposite shore of the Hudson. Irving -tells us a belief existed in a spectre--the Headless Horseman of -Sleepy Hollow--supposed to be the spirit of a Hessian trooper whose -head had been carried off by a cannon-ball. Nearing the old church, -this horrid ghost appeared in pursuit of Ichabod, who was bestride an -inflexible old horse called Gunpowder. The terrified schoolmaster made -all haste to reach the bridge, having passed which, he would be beyond -the power of his pursuer. He spurred Gunpowder forward, but looking -back, beheld the spectre close behind him, and in the very act of -hurling its horrid head at him. The crash came; Ichabod rolled to the -ground; the spectre and Gunpowder rushed past him in a whirlwind. Next -day, we are told, a shattered pumpkin was found in the road, and not -long afterwards Brom Bones led Katrina to the altar, but the luckless -Ichabod was never heard of again. - -In the hills behind Point-no-Point, on the western verge of the Tappan -Zee, at one hundred and sixty feet elevation, is Rockland Lake, a -crystal sheet of water which gives New York much of its ice supply, -the blocks being sent from the top of the hill on a long slide to the -barges that carry it down the river. As they glide along, they look in -the distance, under the sunlight, like a string of diamonds. Hook -Mountain, separating the lake from the river, is over six hundred feet -high, and out of the lake flows the Hackensack River behind the -Palisades, through the Jersey meadows to Newark Bay. Just above -Tarrytown, on the eastern shore, is Sing-Sing Village, on a pretty -slope, the name coming from the Indian Ossining, meaning "a stony -place." Here, just back from the shore, is the famous Sing-Sing -Prison, the long, low tiers of white stone buildings having the -railway tunnelled through them, and the pleasant village rising on the -hillside behind. The convicts built their own prison many years ago, -with stone hewn out of an adjacent marble ridge, called Mount -Pleasant. Just above, the long forest-covered projection of Teller's -or Croton Point, thrust for two miles, or more than half-way across -the broad river, from the eastern bank, makes the northern boundary of -the Tappan Zee. The West Shore railway, which has come up through the -Hackensack Valley from Jersey City, emerges high on the western hills -and runs gradually down to the river bank, so that the Hudson above -has a railway on either shore. Alongside the Point, the Croton River -flows in, the Reservoir being about six miles up that stream. It was -off Teller's Point the British sloop "Vulture" anchored, when she -brought André up from New York for his interview with Arnold. - - -ENTERING THE HIGHLANDS. - -Beyond Teller's Point is another broadened expanse of the Hudson, -Haverstraw Bay, spreading in parts five miles wide, its western shore -lined with brickmaking establishments, lime-kilns and the factories -which break up the stone quarried in the neighboring hills into -Belgian blocks for New York street paving. Far in front, over the -spacious bay, looms up the distant range of Hudson River Highlands, an -outcrop of the great Kittatinny ridge, stretching broadly across the -country, a part of the same deep blue-gray mountain wall we have -already penetrated farther south. Its changing hues and appearance, as -approached, remind of Campbell's couplet in the _Pleasures of Hope_: - - "'Tis distance lends enchantment to the view, - And robes the mountain in its azure hue." - -High Torn, just behind the bank below Haverstraw, rises over eight -hundred feet, while above is Stony Point, the outcrop of a long line -of limestone hills stretching into the river. Between it and the town, -standing on a little eminence not far from the shore, was the frame -house of Smith the Tory, known as the "Treason House," where André and -Arnold had their clandestine meeting to arrange the surrender of West -Point, this eminence now being known as "Treason Hill." Across the -ferry to Verplanck's Point, on the opposite shore, André went when the -meeting was over, and started on his fateful journey down to -Tarrytown. The two Points suddenly narrow the Hudson, above Treason -Hill, to a half-mile width, and they make the northern boundary of -Haverstraw Bay. This is a region filled with Revolutionary memories. -These Points commanded the southern river entrance to the Highlands, -and behind them, back of the western shore, rises the buttress of the -Kittatinny and the outpost of the pass, the massive Donderberg -Mountain, eleven hundred feet high. The eastern Point was part of the -Van Cortlandt manor, whose heiress, Gertrude, married Philip -Verplanck, for whom it was named. Forts were built on both Points to -control the river, and the British surprised and captured both of them -in June, 1779, giving Washington much annoyance; but General Wayne, in -July, by one of the most brilliant movements of the war, surprised and -recaptured Stony Point. On the site of the old fort, and built of some -of its materials, is now a little lighthouse guiding the river -navigation. Over on the opposite shore, behind Verplanck's Point, -Baron Steuben drilled the Revolutionary soldiers. This region now is -chiefly devoted to the peaceful occupations of burning lime and making -bricks. - -The Hudson bends towards the northeast along the base of the towering -Donderberg,--the Thunder Mountain,--the limestone quarries cut into -its cliffs looking much like an old-time fortress. The narrow river -contracted in the pass always has gusty winds blowing over it, and -this was a weird region in the ancient Dutch _régime_, many a tale of -woe and wonder being told by the skippers who sailed that way. Irving -records how they used to "talk of a little bulbous-bottomed Dutch -goblin in trunk-hose and sugar-loaf hat, with a speaking-trumpet in -his hand, which they say keeps the Donder-Berg." He declares "they -have heard him in stormy weather, in the midst of the turmoil, giving -orders in Low Dutch for the piping up of a fresh gust of wind, or the -rattling off of another thunder-clap; that sometimes he had been seen -surrounded by a crew of little imps, in broad breeches and short -doublets, tumbling head over heels in the rack and mist, and playing a -thousand gambols in the air, or buzzing like a swarm of flies about -Anthony's Nose; and that at such times the hurry-scurry of the storm -was always greatest." The genial historian supports this statement by -testimony. "Skipper Daniel Ouslesticker of Fish Kill, who was never -known to tell a lie," declared that in a severe squall he saw the -goblin "seated astride of his bowsprit, riding the sloop ashore full -butt against Anthony's Nose," but that he was happily exorcised by -"Dominie Van Geisen of Esopus, who happened to be on board, and who -sang the song of Saint Nicholas, whereupon the goblin threw himself up -in the air like a ball, and went off in a whirlwind, carrying away -with him the nightcap of the Dominie's wife, which was discovered the -next Sunday morning hanging on the weathercock of Esopus Church -steeple, at least forty miles off." Such misadventures occurring, the -skippers for a long time did not venture past the Donderberg without -lowering their peaks in homage, "and it was observed that all such as -paid this tribute of respect were suffered to pass unmolested." - -The Hudson River Highlands in some peaks rise nearly sixteen hundred -feet. The river, coming from the north, breaks through them in a -series of short bends, making narrow reaches, and in the fifteen miles -required for the passage presents some of the most attractive American -scenery. Beyond Verplanck's Point is the town of Peekskill, with the -mountain range trending far away to the northeast, the river flowing -along its base, and from the view ahead seeming to come from the -lowlands beyond Peekskill. It was not strange, therefore, that in the -early seventeenth century one of the Dutch skippers who braved the -goblin of the Donderberg, in his explorations should have sailed his -sloop up there, got into a shallow creek, and run aground. This was -the misfortune of the honest Dutch mariner Jan Peek; but he made the -best of it, and seeing that the soil of the valley was fertile, -settled there, and the creek became Peek's Kill, and thus named the -town. The rich Canopus Valley is to the northeastward, and the -mountains blend so well that the sharp right-angled bend the river -makes into the Highlands is completely hidden. - - -ANTHONY'S NOSE. - -Thus rise, high over the valley, "the rough turrets of the Highland -towers." The Indians believed this mountain region was created by the -mighty spirit Manetho, to protect his favorite abodes from the -unhallowed eyes of mortals. Their tradition was that the vast -mountains of rock were raised before the Hudson poured its waters -through them, and within them was a prison where the omnipotent -Manetho confined rebellious spirits. Here, bound by adamantine chains, -jammed in rifted pines, or crushed under ponderous crags, they groaned -for ages. At length the mighty Hudson burst open their prison-house, -rolling its overwhelming tide triumphantly through the stupendous -ruins. Entering the pass, it really seems as if the Hudson River -channel ought to run up where Jan Peek went, but instead it goes -sharply around the ponderous base of the Donderberg Mountain. This is -a very narrow gateway, where the swift tidal current makes the "Race," -and in an instant the contracted passage is opened between the -Donderberg on the left and Anthony's Nose on the right, entering this -beautiful Highland district, which Chateaubriand has likened to "a -large bouquet tied at its base with azure ribbon." As the narrow -strait is traversed, Iona Island, tree-clad and attractive, appears -ahead, and the winds usually blow a lively gale, buffeted from one -mountain side to the other. The tide runs swiftly around the base of -Anthony's Nose, and the romantic Brocken Kill pours down his sloping -side, while through the jutting point of the Nose the railway has -pierced a tunnel, making on either side a veritable nostril. The huge -tree-covered mountain rises grandly to the clouds, while just over the -tunnel at the point, a mass of protruding rocks and timber makes a -first-class pimple to ornament the Nose. This is one of the prominent -Highland peaks, rising over twelve hundred feet, and is said by some -to have been named from a fancied resemblance to the nose of the great -St. Anthony, the Egyptian monk of the third century. - -Irving, however, has given us the more popular tradition that it was -named in memory of luckless Anthony the Trumpeter, who met his fate at -Spuyten Duyvel. The veracious historian Knickerbocker writes: "It must -be known that the nose of Anthony the Trumpeter was of a very lusty -size, strutting boldly from his countenance like a mountain of -Golconda, being sumptuously bedecked with rubies and other precious -stones--the true regalia of a king of good fellows--which jolly -Bacchus grants to all who bouse it heartily at the flagon. Now, thus -it happened, that bright and early in the morning the good Anthony, -having washed his burly visage, was leaning over the quarter railing -of the galley, contemplating it in the glossy wave below. Just at this -moment, the illustrious sun, breaking in all his splendor from behind -a high bluff of the Highlands, did dart one of his most potent beams -full upon the nose of the sounder of brass, the reflection of which -shot straightway down hissing hot into the water and killed a mighty -sturgeon that was sporting beside the vessel. This huge monster, being -with infinite labor hoisted on board, furnished a luxurious repast to -all the crew, being accounted of excellent flavor, except about the -wound, where it smacked a little of brimstone, and this, on my -veracity, was the first time that ever sturgeon was eaten in these -parts by Christian people. When this astonishing miracle became known -to Peter Stuyvesant, and he tasted of the unknown fish, he, as may -well be supposed, marvelled exceedingly, and as a monument thereof, he -gave the name of 'Anthony's Nose' to a stout promontory in the -neighborhood, and it has continued to be called 'Anthony's Nose' ever -since that time." - - -WEST POINT. - -The most famous locality in the Highlands is West Point. "In this -beautiful place," wrote Charles Dickens, "the fairest among the fair -and lovely Highlands of the North River; shut in by deep green heights -and ruined forts, and looking down upon the distant town of Newburg, -along a glittering path of sunlit water, with here and there a skiff, -whose white sail often bends on some new tack as sudden flaws of wind -come down upon her from the gullies in the hills, hemmed in besides, -all around, with memories of Washington and events of the -Revolutionary war: is the Military School of America." Opposite -Anthony's Nose, Montgomery Creek flows in, its mouth broadened into a -little bay. Upon the high rocks at the entrance, on either side, stood -the great defenders of the lower Highlands during the early -Revolution, Forts Clinton and Montgomery, considered impregnable -then, and to bar the river passage a ponderous iron chain on timber -floats was stretched across the channel to Anthony's Nose. The -Continental Congress spent $250,000 on these obstructions, but the -British in 1777 surprised and captured the forts, destroyed the chain -and burnt the gunboats guarding it. This was a great victory, but -barren of results, for Burgoyne's surrender soon afterwards compelled -them to abandon this region and retire down towards New York. There -are traces of the forts, and a flagstaff on the hill north of the -creek marks the site of Fort Montgomery. Just above, on the eastern -bank, is the charming and symmetrical cone of the Sugar Loaf Mountain, -with several smaller companions, and the vista views along the river, -and through some of the deep valleys between these mountains, are -magnificent. The little town of Garrison's fringes the shore, the -school of the Sisters of St. Francis, formerly a popular hotel, is -perched high on the cliff on the western bank; while in front the dome -of the West Point Library and the barracks rise in view upon the Point -itself, which stretches completely across the view, its extremity -hidden by the jutting headlands of the eastern bank. Here comes down -in rainy weather the frothy current of the beautiful Buttermilk Falls, -for a hundred feet over the rocks into the river, and the West Shore -Railroad, winding along the edge of the cliffs, cuts or goes through -their extended points, and finally darts into a long tunnel bored -right under the West Point Academy. - -The Hudson River, some distance above, bends sharply around the little -lighthouse on the end of West Point, its extremity being a moderately -sloping rock covered with cedars, the reef going deep down into the -water, while on its highest part is a monument to General Kosciusko, -who had much to do with constructing the original military works. The -flat and elevated surface, some distance inland, plainly visible both -from up and down the river, is the Parade Ground, the Academic -buildings being constructed around it, while behind them on higher -ground is the dome-crowned library. The surface of West Point is not -so high as the surrounding mountains, but its advanced position -completely commands the river approach both ways, and hence its -military importance. Along the water's edge at the Point the rocks are -worn smooth, it is said, by so many cadets sitting there in the summer -time. Just above is the cove, where they swim and practice at -pontoon-bridge building, and back of this cove is the artillery -ground, the guns being fired at the huge side of old Cro' Nest -Mountain to the northward. Gee's Point is also above, and from its -extremity was extended the second big chain across to Constitution -Island, used during the later years of the Revolution, to obstruct the -passage, also buoyed on timber floats; some of its huge links being -still preserved. Constitution Island was long the home of Susan -Warner, the authoress, who died in 1885, and her grave is in West -Point Cemetery. Her _Hills of the Shatemuc_ is full of Hudson River -scenes, but her best-known book was _The Wide, Wide World_, published -in 1850. - -The military post and academy of West Point is about fifty miles north -of New York, the Government domain covering twenty-four hundred acres. -The buildings stand on a plain of one hundred and sixty acres, -elevated one hundred and fifty-seven feet above the river, with -mountains all around, rising in some cases fifteen hundred feet, the -highest being old Cro' Nest. South of the Academy, on a commanding -hill six hundred feet high, are the ruins of Fort Putnam, the chief -work during the Revolution. When that war began in 1775 it was ordered -that the passes of the Hudson through the Highlands should be -fortified, and Fort Constitution was built on the opposite island. As -the higher adjacent hills commanded it, this work was soon abandoned, -and three years later West Point was selected and fortified, with Fort -Clinton at the Point, and several other formidable works, becoming the -"American Gibraltar," the second massive chain being then extended -across to the island as an additional protection. It was considered -the most important post in the country, and at the time of Arnold's -treason in September, 1780, was garrisoned by over three thousand men, -and had one hundred and eighteen cannon in the various works. After -peace came, the military defenses fell into ruin; but Washington -repeatedly recommended that a military school be established at West -Point, and in 1802 it was authorized by Congress, going into operation -in 1812. The earthworks of the original Fort Clinton on the point, -built by the youthful engineer Thaddeus Kosciusko in 1778, have been -restored, and are carefully preserved. This young officer, descended -from a noble Polish family, had not completed his studies in the -military school of Warsaw when he eloped with a girl of high rank. The -enraged father pursued and captured them, and the youthful lover was -compelled either to slay the father or abandon the daughter. He chose -the latter, and going to Paris met Dr. Franklin, who soon filled him -with a desire to help the struggling Americans, and he came over and -entered the army as an engineer in 1776. He served with distinction -throughout the war, was made a General, and publicly thanked by -Congress. He fought afterwards in the Polish Revolution, and retiring -to Switzerland, died in 1817. He is buried in the Cathedral Church of -Cracow, and near that city a mound one hundred and fifty feet high has -been raised to his memory, earth being brought from every battlefield -in Poland. The Kosciusko monument of marble was erected in memory of -the noble Pole in an angle of Fort Clinton at West Point in 1829. - - -ARNOLD'S TREASON. - -West Point itself saw no fighting, the great event of its early -history being Benedict Arnold's treason. Across the river from the -Point, and under the shadow of Sugar Loaf Mountain, is Beverly Cove, -with a little wharf, where then stood Beverly House, previously the -home of a prominent loyalist, Colonel Beverly Robinson of Virginia. -Dr. Dwight, afterwards President of Yale College, was Chaplain of a -Connecticut regiment at West Point in 1778, and he then climbed the -Sugar Loaf, describing its view over the Highlands as "majestic, -solemn, wild and melancholy." Arnold, when he plotted for the -surrender of the post with André at Treason Hill, below the Highlands, -agreed to the treason for $50,000 gold and a Brigadier General's -commission in the British army. Believing the plot was working -prosperously, Arnold, after the interview, had crossed from the Point -over to Beverly House, his headquarters, and three days afterwards -breakfasted there on September 24, 1780. Hamilton and Lafayette -arrived early that morning and met him, announcing that Washington was -at the ferry below and would soon join them. While at the table, -Arnold received a letter from an officer down the river with the -startling intelligence, "Major André of the British army is a prisoner -in my custody." Arnold is said to have acted with wonderful coolness -in the presence of his distinguished company, and although evidence -of his own guilt might at any moment have arrived, he thoroughly -concealed his emotions. Ordering a horse prepared, on the plea that -his presence was needed "over the river," he left the table and went -up stairs to his wife. He briefly told her they must part, perhaps -forever, as his life depended on speedily reaching the British lines. -The poor young wife, a bride of less than two years, was -horror-stricken, and swooning, sank senseless upon the floor. Arnold -dare not summon assistance, but kissed their sleeping infant, and -mounting his horse galloped down to the wharf. Here he jumped into his -six-oared barge, ordering them to row him swiftly down the Hudson, -strengthening their energies by a promised reward of two gallons of -rum. The oarsmen worked with a will, not knowing where they were -going, and were astonished when he got below the Highlands to find him -guiding them to the British sloop "Vulture." They were kept aboard as -prisoners by Arnold's orders, and saw him greeted as a friend by their -enemies. Even Sir Henry Clinton, when they arrived in New York, -despised this meanness and ordered their liberation. - -Washington arrived at Beverly House soon after Arnold had left, being -anxious to see him, but could not find him. The General took a hasty -breakfast and crossed over the river to West Point seeking him, but -having no suspicions. He was disappointed at not finding Arnold -there, and talking to Colonel Lamb, commanding Fort Clinton, the -latter told him he had not heard from Arnold for two days. -Washington's suspicions began to awaken, and crossing back to Beverly -House, he was met by Hamilton, with the papers found upon André, -revealing Arnold's guilt. He summoned Lafayette and Knox for counsel, -and the deepest sorrow evidently stirred Washington's bosom as he -asked them the memorable question, "Whom can we trust now?" But soon -the condition of the deserted wife, who was frantic with grief and -apprehension, aroused his liveliest sympathy. Describing the scene, -Hamilton wrote: "The General went up to see her. She upbraided him -with being in a plot to murder her child, for she was quite beside -herself. One moment she raved; another she melted into tears. -Sometimes she pressed her infant to her bosom and lamented its fate, -occasioned by the imprudence of its father, in a manner that would -have moved insensibility itself." Washington did all in his power to -soothe her, believing her innocent of previous knowledge of her -husband's guilt. After Arnold had got safely aboard the "Vulture," he -wrote to Washington, imploring protection for his wife and child, -saying: "She is as good and innocent as an angel, and as incapable of -doing wrong." Ample protection was afforded, and they were sent safely -to her friends. She was Miss Shippen of Philadelphia, and only -eighteen years old when Arnold, then the Military Governor of -Philadelphia, married her in 1778, his second wife. The infant, James -Robertson Arnold, afterwards became a distinguished officer in the -British army, serving with credit in different parts of the world, and -rising to the rank of Lieutenant General, dying in London in 1854. -Benedict Arnold was made a Major General by the British, and was given -a considerable sum of money; but his life was unhappy, as he was -shunned and often insulted, and sinking into obscurity, he died in -London in 1801. His treason was deliberately plotted, investigation -showing he had been over a year in correspondence with the enemy, and -had sought the command at West Point, given him in August, 1780, in -order to compass its surrender. - - -OLD CRO' NEST AND THE STORM KING. - -The dark pile of old Cro' Nest, guarding the northern side of West -Point, rises fourteen hundred and eighteen feet, one of the noblest -mountains of the Highlands. Beyond it, the Storm King and Mount Taurus -are the northern portals of the pass, with Pollopell's Island, rocky -and tree-clad, lying in the river between, and farther on the distant -hazy shores enclosing Newburg Bay. These buttresses of the northern -entrance solidly rise as protectors of the pass into the valley: - - "Mountains that like giants stand - To sentinel enchanted land." - -On the northern side of the promontory making the Point, upon a little -level plain above the cliffs, overlooking the river, and almost under -the shadow of old Cro' Nest, is the West Point Cemetery. Here is -buried General Winfield Scott. Upon the Parade Ground is the Battle -Monument, erected in 1894, a column seventy-eight feet high, -surmounted by a statue of Victory. Down along the most beautiful part -of the shore at the Point, and leading to Kosciusko's Garden, a -favorite resort of the Polish officer, is the secluded path which -generations of impulsive young cadets have known as the "Flirtation -Walk." Beginning at the roadway, high on the bluff, overlooking the -river, it winds with devious turns down the declivity, and after -curving around the promontory near the water's edge, sweeps grandly up -the incline again. This trysting-path leads under a lacework of -foliage, giving it pleasant and meditative gloom even when the sun -shines brightly. Over across the river is the village of Cold Spring, -having both above and below the shores rising steeply, and hung upon -the edge is the pretty Church of St. Mary's, with its columned portico -and surmounting belfry. Nearby the railway running along the shore -pierces a tunnel through a rugged protruding rock. Here is the Cold -Spring foundry that makes cannon for the army. Almost under the Parade -Ground on the northern side is the Siege Battery, where the guns in -time of artillery practice carry on a noisy and reverberating -warfare across the Cove against the dark and towering side of old Cro' -Nest. This grand mountain, the target for the youthful gunners, -inspired the muse of George P. Morris, the lyric poet of the -Highlands, whose delightful home was at Undercliff, across the river -above, at the foot of Mount Taurus. His eyes perpetually feasted upon -the view of this peak, and thus he described it: - - "Where Hudson's wave o'er silvery sands - Winds through the hills afar, - Old Cro' Nest like a monarch stands - Crowned with a single star." - - [Illustration: _Up the Hudson from the Water Battery, West Point_] - -The northern portal of the Highlands is guarded on either hand by the -Storm King, rising fifteen hundred and twenty-nine feet, and Mount -Taurus, fifteen hundred and eighty-six feet. There are also a galaxy -of attendant peaks. Beyond Mount Taurus is Breakneck Hill, rising -nearly twelve hundred feet, with a chain of mountains stretching far -to the northeast, among them the Old Beacon and the towering Grand -Sachem, sixteen hundred and eighty feet high. The Storm King was the -old Boter-Berg of the early Dutch, thus named because, to their -matter-of-fact minds, the mountain resembled nothing so much as a huge -lump of butter. Similarly, the eastern portal of the pass was Bull -Mountain originally, but has since been more classically transformed -into Mount Taurus. The ancient Knickerbocker legend records how the -primitive inhabitants chased a wild bull around this mountain to the -peak beyond it, where he fell and broke his neck, thus naming both of -them, though Breakneck Hill yet awaits a more classic transformation. - -The geologists tell us that in early ages, like the Minisink of the -Delaware, the region north of the Highlands adjacent to the Hudson -Valley was a vast lake, extending back to Lake Champlain, which still -remains as a fragment of the inland sea, following the melting of the -great glacier. To get a southern outlet, the river broke through the -mountain barrier and formed the winding and romantic Highland Pass. -There is a grand outlook from the summit of the Storm King over this -valley to the northward. The river expands into the beautiful Newburg -Bay, its most perfect land-locked harbor, and its course can be traced -through the "Long Reach" for more than twenty miles, a broad, straight -stream between the pleasant banks, up to Crom Elbow, the "Krom -Elleboge" of the original Dutch colonists. Villages dot the shores, -and fertile fields stretch up on either hand, while hung in mid air, -far away across the water, is the distant, slender, spider-like span -of the high railway bridge at Poughkeepsie, the route by the "back -door" into New England, which has gone through such serious throes of -reconstruction. Upon the left hand the Catskills, and upon the right -hand the Berkshire Hills of Western Massachusetts, bound the distant -horizon. Behind, and to the southward, the river can be traced as it -winds through the Highlands down to Anthony's Nose, while nearer, one -can look into the depression on top of the adjoining mountain, within -a surrounding amphitheatre of peaks that makes the striking -resemblance giving the significant name to the old Cro' Nest. - - -THE CULPRIT FAY. - -Between the Storm King and old Cro' Nest is the deep and beautiful -Vale of Tempe, with wild ravines furrowed through it, forming channels -for clear mountain streams, and the trees conceal many a delicious -dell. In this picturesque nook among the mountains is laid the scene -of Joseph Rodman Drake's charming poem of "The Culprit Fay": - - "'Tis the middle watch of a summer's night, - The earth is dark but the heavens are bright; - Naught is seen in the vault on high - But the moon and the stars and the cloudless sky, - And the flood which rolls its milky hue, - A river of light on the welkin blue. - The moon looks down on old Cro' Nest, - She mellows the shades on his shaggy breast, - And seems his huge gray form to throw - In a silver cone on the wave below; - His sides are broken by spots of shade, - By the walnut bough and the cedar made, - And through their clustering branches dark - Glimmers and dies the fire-fly's spark, - Like starry twinkles that momently break - Through the rifts of the gathering tempest's rack." - -The story is told that Drake, then about twenty-one years of age, and -James Fenimore Cooper and Fitz-Greene Halleck, who were his close -friends, in August, 1816, were strolling through these Highlands. His -companions got into a discussion, holding that our American rivers -gave no such rare opportunities for poetic fancy as the streams of -older lands. Drake disputed this, and, to prove the contrary, composed -within three days this exquisite poem, which has largely made his -fame. It is a simple yet interesting story. The fairies living in this -beautiful valley are called together at midnight to punish one who has -broken his vow, and they sentence him to a difficult penance, with all -the evil spirits of air and water opposing. The genius of the poet -interweaves the poem with every natural attraction the locality -affords. Thus are the fairies summoned to the dance: - - "Ouphe and goblin! imp and sprite! - Elf of eve and starry fay! - Ye that love the moon's soft light, - Hither, hither, wend your way. - Twine ye in a jocund ring; - Sing and trip it merrily; - Hand to hand and wing to wing, - Round the wild witch-hazel tree." - -These Cro' Nest fairies are a dainty race. Owlet's eyes are their -lanterns; they repose in cobweb hammocks swung on tufted spears of -grass and rocked by midsummer night zephyrs; some lie on beds of -lichen, with pillows of the breast-plumes of the humming-bird; others -nestle in the purple shade of the four-o'clock, or in rock-niches -lined with dazzling mica. Velvet-like mushrooms are their tables, -where they quaff the dew from the buttercup. Their king's throne is of -spicewood and sassafras, supported on tortoise-shell pillars and -draped with crimson tulip-leaves. The "culprit" himself, however, in -his beautiful outfit and quaint adventures, gives the best imagery of -the poem. At the opening of his journey, chagrined and fatigued, he -captures a spotted toad for a steed, and bridles her with silk-weed -twist, spurring her onward with an osier whip. Arriving at the water's -edge, he plunges in, but leeches, fish and other watery foes drive him -back with bruised limbs. The use of cobweb lint and the balsam dews of -sorrel and henbane relieve his wounds, and being refreshed by the -juices of calamus, he embarks in a mussel-shell boat, painted -brilliantly without and tinged with pearl within. He gathers a -colen-bell for a cup, and sculls into the middle of the stream, -laughing at the foes who chatter and grin in the water. There he sits -in the moonlight, until a sturgeon, coming by, leaps glistening into -the silvery light; and then, like a liliputian Mercury, balancing upon -one foot, he lifts the flowery cup and catches the sparkling drop that -washes the stain from his wing. He returns to the shore, having sweet -nymphs grasping the sides of the boat with their tiny hands and -urging it onward. The next enterprise of the "culprit" is more -knightly. He is arrayed as a fairy cavalier, in acorn helmet, plumed -with thistle-down, corselet made of a bee's nest, and cloak of -butterfly wings. His shield is a lady-bug's shell; his lance a -wasp-sting; his spurs of cockle-seed; his bow of vine-twig strung with -corn-silk; and his arrows, nettle-shafts. He mounts a fire-fly steed, -and waving a blade of blue grass, speeds upward to catch a flying -meteor's spark. Again the spirits of evil are let loose, those of air -being as bad as those of water. A sylphid queen tries to enchant him -with her beauty and kindness; she toys with the butterfly cloak as he -tells the dangers he has passed. But he never forgets the object of -his pilgrimage, and triumphing over the foes of air, he is escorted -with honor by the sylph's lovely retinue; his career is resumed, his -flame-wood lamp rekindled, and before a streak of dawn is proclaimed -in the eastern sky by the sentry elf, the "Culprit Fay" has made his -full penance and been welcomed back to all his original glory. Drake -died at the early age of twenty-five, a victim of consumption, and his -grave is beside the little river Bronx in New York. To his memory his -friend Halleck wrote the noted poem, thus beginning: - - "Green be the turf above thee, - Friend of my better days! - None knew thee but to love thee, - Nor named thee but to praise." - - -NEWBURG BAY. - -Emerging from the Highlands, the gentle slopes of the town of Cornwall -are under the shadow of the Storm King, while the mountain range -stretches off to the northeast, with Fishkill village in front, and -the Revolutionary signal station of the Old Beacon standing up -prominently behind. These mountains were the Indian Matteawan, the -"Council of Good Fur." The same name was given the stream draining -their sides until the Dutch called it Vis Kill, or Fish Creek, and -hence its present name and that of the village. The shores of Newburg -Bay seem low, as they are dwarfed by the mountains, and on the western -slope an elevated bench of table-land in terraces stretches back to -the distant hills. The town of Newburg, which has about twenty-five -thousand people, spreads up these terraces, and in front there are -storehouses, mills and railway terminals. When Hendrick Hudson sailed -his ship "Half Moon" through the Highlands, he was attracted by the -site of Newburg, and wrote: "It is as beautiful a land as one can -tread upon; a very pleasant place to build a town on." A tribe of the -Minsis who had a village known as the Quassaic, meaning "the Place of -the Rock," then occupied it, and would not for a half-century permit a -settlement. They were driven away, however, and a colony of Lutherans -from the Palatinate came here and founded the "Palatine Parish of -Quassaic." They did not flourish, and ultimately some Scots arrived -from the Tay, and seeing quite a resemblance to their old home, named -the place Newborough. Its most distinguished citizen has probably been -General John E. Wool, born here in 1788. At the southern end of this -pleasant town, a short distance back from the river, is its chief -celebrity, a low, old-fashioned graystone building, appearing to be -almost all roof, from which tall chimneys rise. There is a broad lawn -and flagstaff in front, and a grove for the background. This is the -historic house, maintained by New York State as a relic, which was -General Washington's headquarters during the closing campaign of the -Revolution. It was built by Jonathan Hasbrouck, a Huguenot, in 1750, -and is also known as the Hasbrouck House. In its centre is a large -hall, having a huge fireplace on one side, and containing seven doors, -but only one window. This was Washington's reception hall, and here he -dined with his guests. At the foot of the flagstaff on the lawn is -buried the last survivor of Washington's Life Guard, Ural Knapp, who -died in 1856 at the age of ninety-seven. This Guard, organized in -Boston in 1776, continued as his bodyguard throughout the war, and was -selected from all the regiments of the army. Knapp was its sergeant, -and at his last public appearance at a banquet in Newburg, the old man -made a brief address, concluding with an invitation to the entire -company to attend his funeral; four months later they did so. - -The "Tower of Victory" is a fine monument, built on the grounds by the -Government, and surmounted by a statue of Washington in the act of -sheathing his sword. A bronze tablet with the figure of Peace -announces that it was erected "in commemoration of the disbandment, -under proclamation of the Continental Congress of October 18, 1783, of -the armies by whose patriotic and military virtue our National -independence and sovereignty was established." It was at Newburg that -Washington was offered the title of King by the officers of the army, -but declined it. Over at Fishkill is the old Verplanck House, with its -quaint dormer windows, which was the headquarters of Baron Steuben, -and here, upon the disbandment of the army, was held the meeting of -the officers at which was formed the Society of the Cincinnati, -Washington being its first president. The mountainous region east and -south and the "neutral ground" were the haunts of Enoch Crosby of -Massachusetts, the American spy of the Revolution, whose exploits all -about this locality Fenimore Cooper wove into his novel _The Spy, a -Tale of the Neutral Ground_, which made the novelist's earliest fame. -The ancient Wheaton House, around which much of the tale centred, is -still there. The Murderer's Creek comes down to the Hudson through -Newburg,--an attractive stream which deserved a better name, but did -not get it until N. P. Willis, who lived at Cornwall, and who -converted the Dutch "Butter Hill" into the Storm King, and "Bull Hill" -into Mount Taurus, tried his persuasive powers at Newburg and got this -stream softened into the pleasant Indian name of Moodna. The -neighborhood of Newburg is famous from a scientific standpoint for the -finding of the remains of mastodons. One was unearthed there in 1899, -making the eleventh found in Orange County, New York, during the past -century, some of them being among the finest specimens extant. - -At the head of Newburg Bay, on the western shore, is a rocky platform -down by the waterside, known as the "Devil's Dance Chamber." When the -"Half Moon" came up the river and anchored for the night, this broad -flat rock, now almost hidden by cedars, was the scene of a wild -midnight revel of the Indians, with all the accessories of song and -dance, fire and war-paint, at which the Dutch sailors marvelled -exceedingly, calling it the "Duyvel's Dans-Kamer." Here the warlike -Minsis of the Quassaic, before going on hunting expeditions or the -warpath, would paint themselves grotesquely and dance around a fire -with horrible contortions, singing and yelling under direction of the -soothsayers or "medicine men." They believed, if this was kept up long -enough, the evil spirit would appear, either as a wild beast or a -harmless animal; if the former, it foreboded ill-fortune and the -expedition was abandoned, while the latter was a good omen. These -hideous performances afterwards scared old Governor Peter Stuyvesant, -according to the veracious Knickerbocker, when he sailed up the river, -for the historian says, "Even now I have it on the point of my pen to -relate how his crew was most horribly frightened, on going on shore -above the Highlands, by a gang of merry, roystering devils, frisking -and curvetting on a huge flat rock projecting into the river, and -which is called the Duyvel's Dans-Kamer to this very day." - - -POUGHKEEPSIE AND VASSAR. - -The Hudson River's "Long Reach" stretches many miles almost due -northward, and on it is Poughkeepsie, with thirty thousand population, -midway between New York and Albany. Near here lived stout Theophilus -Anthony the blacksmith, who forged the great chains stretched across -the Hudson in the Highlands, for which the British burnt his house and -carried him a captive down to the New York prison-ships. Here, at -Locust Grove, a foliage-covered rocky point protruding into the river, -was long the home of Professor Samuel F. B. Morse, the inventor of the -electric telegraph. Poughkeepsie spreads broadly upon its group of -gentle hills, with the great railway-bridge crossing high overhead, -elevated two hundred feet above the water, and nearly a mile and a -half long. The Poughkeepsie streets, lined with fine elms, maples and -acacias, rise upon the sloping banks to a height above the bridge -level, the town being environed by rocky buttresses. The Indians named -the place Apo-keep-sinck, or the "pleasant and safe harbor," and in it -they housed their canoes. From this was gradually evolved the present -name, through a variety of spellings, of which no less than forty-two -different styles are found in the old records of the town. The "safe -harbor" of the Indians was between two protruding rocky bluffs, and is -now filled with wharves. The rapid Winnakee Brook leaps into it, a -stream which the Dutch called the Fall Kill. The northern bordering -bluff was their Slange Klippe, or the "Adder Cliff," infested with -venomous serpents, and the other is the "Call Rock." Tradition tells -that once a band of Mohican warriors who had made a foray into New -England brought here some Pequot captives, among them a young chief -who was tied to a tree for a sacrifice, when a shriek startled them, -and a girl, leaping from the thicket, implored his life. She also was -a captive Pequot and his affianced. As the captors debated, the -warwhoop was suddenly sounded by hostile Hurons, and they seized their -arms for defense. The maiden released her lover, but in the conflict -they were separated, and a Huron carried her off. The young chief was -almost inconsolable, but he pursued them beyond the river, and -conceived a daring plan for rescue. He entered the Huron camp -disguised as a wizard, found the maiden ill, and her Huron captor -implored the wizard to save her life. This he essayed to do, she -recognized him, and eluding the Huron vigilance, they escaped at -nightfall. They made their way to the Hudson, paddled over in a canoe, -and though pursued, he brought her into the "safe harbor," concealed -her, and then, by the aid of the friendly Indians he found there, beat -off the Hurons. - -The Dutch often sailed by, and cast longing eyes upon this spot, so -favorable for a settlement, but it was nearly a century after Hudson's -exploration when the venerable yet venturesome Baltus Van Kleek -concluded it was about time to take possession. He landed in the -harbor, became the lord of the manor, and in 1705 built near the -Winnakee Brook a stout fortress-dwelling, which stood until recently. -It was loop-holed for musketry, and in it the New York Legislature met -for two sessions during the Revolution. Out in front was the "Call -Rock," where old Baltus and his friends used to stand and hail the -passing Dutch sloops when they wanted to get the news or journey upon -the river. The New York State Convention met at Poughkeepsie in 1788, -and ratified the Federal Constitution by the small majority of three, -after a protracted debate. From its many elevations, this leading city -of the Hudson Valley has a superb outlook, only limited by the -Catskills far to the northwest, the Highlands down the river, and the -dark-blue Shawangunk ridge off to the westward, where the attractive -lakes Mohonk and Minnewaska, the former at twelve hundred and the -latter at eighteen hundred feet elevation, nestle high among the -mountain peaks, overshadowed by the bold summits of Paltz Point and -Sky Top. Here flows deep in the valley the pretty Wallkill, out to the -Rondout and the Hudson, giving the railroad a route into the mountain -fastness. - -About two miles back from the river, and behind the city, is Vassar -College, the foremost educational institution for women in the world. -The splendid buildings stand in grounds covering two hundred acres, -attractively laid out, and the main building, modelled after the -Tuileries, with high surmounting dome, is five hundred feet long. From -Sunset Hill, their highest eminence, there is a panorama of the Hudson -for forty miles. This college was the gift of Matthew Vassar, a -wealthy Poughkeepsie merchant and brewer, of English birth, who -desired to make it the most complete foundation of its kind, and gave -and bequeathed $1,000,000 besides the land, there being over $400,000 -expended upon the buildings. His nephews have since made large -additional gifts. Here is provided a complete mathematical, classical -and English education for several hundred female students. Its main -building is the chief structure of Poughkeepsie. There are art -galleries, a museum, library and observatory. The museum of American -birds is the most complete existing, there is a fine gallery of -water-colors, and a collection of ancient weapons and armor, including -the halberd of King Francis I. The founder, having an ample fortune -and no children, devoted the closing years of his life to this -beneficent work, the college being begun in 1861 and opened in 1865. -He labored assiduously at its development and died at his post of -duty. Three years after the opening, when attending the annual meeting -of the trustees, while reading his address, he was suddenly stricken -with death. - - -CROM ELBOW TO KINGSTON. - -Upon the Hudson River's "Long Reach" is the favorite locality of the -winter "ice-boat races," this exhilarating sport in boats on runners -speeding over the ice, before the wind, being much enjoyed. A few -miles above Poughkeepsie the reach comes to an abrupt termination, in -the bent and narrow pass, where the cliffs compress the channel and -form the crooked strait known as the Crom Elbow, the Dutch and English -words having the same meaning. Above, the western shore for a long -distance is lined with apple orchards and vineyards, while the eastern -bank for over thirty miles is a succession of villas interspersed with -hamlets. Moving northward, the noble Catskill range comes into full -view, gradually changing from distant gray to nearer blue, and then to -green with the closer approach. Along the river for many miles, where -these magnificent mountains give such a grand front outlook, there are -a series of old Knickerbocker estates, many occupied by the -descendants of the early settlers. Here was the princely home of the -late William B. Dinsmore of Adams Express Company, a business begun in -1840 with two men, a wheelbarrow and a boy, Dinsmore being one of the -men and the late John Hoey of Long Branch the boy. Dinsmore built his -gorgeous palace on the Hudson--and died. On the western shore is -Pell's great apple orchard, shipping the fruit from twenty-five -thousand trees all over the world. Some distance above, the Rondout -Creek comes out through a deep gorge, having the twin cities of -Rondout and Kingston nestling among its bordering hills. They have -together over twenty-five thousand people. This was the outlet of the -abandoned Delaware and Hudson Canal. Kingston Point, the mouth of the -creek, was the place of earliest Dutch settlement in this part of New -York, where they called it Wittwyck, or the "Wild Indian Town," and -for defense built a redoubt, whence come the name of Rondout. - -The historic city of Kingston spreads back to Esopus Creek, a short -distance inland, and was the Esopus town of colonial times, the name -coming from the Indian dwellers here, meaning "the river." The old -"Senate House" of Kingston, built in 1676, was the first meeting-place -of the New York Legislature, and it now contains a collection of Dutch -and other relics. The Esopus Indians broke up the original -settlements with a terrible massacre, but Huguenot refugees came and -re-peopled the place, and during the Revolution Esopus was such a -"nest of rebels" that when the British came along in 1777 they burnt -it. This punishment was inflicted because it was made the capital and -the first New York State Constitution had been framed here during the -preceding February. The tale is told that the British landing to burn -the town scared a party of Dutch laborers, who briskly scampered off. -One of them stepped on a hay-rake, and the handle flying up gave him a -sharp rap on the head. Being frightened more than hurt, and sure that -a Britisher closely pursued him, he fell on his knees, and imploringly -exclaimed, "Mein Gott, I give up; hooray for King Shorge!" Kingston is -a great producer of flagstones and manufactory of Rosendale cements, -made from a fine-grained, hard, dark-blue stone, which is broken, -burnt in kilns with coal, ground, and then prepared for market. Mixed -with clean sharp sand, this cement becomes in time entirely impervious -to water, and has all the strength of the best natural building -stones. - - -GREAT HISTORIC ESTATES. - -The solid old German burgher William Beckman came over from his native -Rhine in 1647, and went sailing up the Hudson, his Fatherland memories -being delighted at the sight of a noble hill on the eastern bank, -opposite Rondout Creek. He settled there, building a house, and behind -the hill started the town of Rhinebeck, a combination of his own name -and that of his native river. This well-known Rhinecliff stands up -alongside the Hudson, much like a vine-clad slope bordering the great -German river, and is adorned with the ancient Beckman House, a stone -structure built for a fort and dwelling. Famous estates surround -Rhinebeck. Here is Ellerslie, the summer home of Levi P. Morton, -formerly Vice-President, fronting the river for a long distance. The -Astor estate of Rokeby, which was the home of William B. Astor and his -son William Astor, is north of Rhinebeck, the house, surmounted by a -tower, standing in a spacious park about a mile back from the river. -Rokeby was a noted place in Revolutionary days, the home of General -Armstrong, whose daughter married the elder Astor. Here is the -Fleetwood estate, with its old house, built in 1700, having the -"cannon-room" in front, with a port-hole facing the river. Here are -Wilderstein and Grasmere, the home of the Livingston descendants, also -Wildercliff, built by Rev. Freeborn Garrettson, one of the founders of -the Methodist Church in America, its name signifying the "wild -Indian's cliff." Garrettson was educated in Maryland for the Church of -England. As a matter of conscience he afterwards espoused the cause of -the Methodists, then in their infancy, entered their ministry, freed -his slaves, and preached the gospel of Methodism everywhere, -declaring his firm faith in a special Providence, and often proving it -in his own person. Once a mob seized him and was taking him to jail, -when a sudden and overpowering flash of lightning dispersed them, and -he was left unmolested. In 1788 he came to New York in missionary -work, and was made Presiding Elder of the district between Long Island -Sound and Lake Champlain. Coming to Clermont, among his converts was -the sister of Chancellor Livingston, and he married her in 1793, -shortly afterwards building his house at Wildercliff. This was long a -home for Methodist clergymen, his daughter continuing his hospitality. -Another historic estate, just above Rokeby, is Montgomery Place, the -home of another Livingston, the widow of General Montgomery, who was -in the colonial attack upon Quebec, by Wolfe, and afterwards, in the -early days of the Revolution, led a forlorn hope against Quebec, and -perished as Wolfe had before him. His young widow lived here a -half-century, and her brother's descendants now possess it. - -Krueger's Island, on the eastern shore, discloses in a grove a -picturesque ruin, with broken arches, specially imported from Italy by -a former owner of the island to give it a flavor of antiquity. The -Catskills now rise in grander view, the Plattekill Clove comes down -out of them, and Esopus Creek from the south flows into the Hudson. -The Dutch called this Zaeger's Kill, which time corrupted into -Saugerties, a pleasant factory village built behind the flats at the -creek's mouth, and having the Catskills for a splendid background. -Opposite, on the eastern bank, is Tivoli, and near here is located the -parent estate of these historic homes. Robert Livingston came from -Scotland to America in 1672 and married a member of the Schuyler -family, who was the widow of a Van Rensselaer. He was a patrician of -high degree, of the family of the Earls of Linlithgow, and seeking a -home in the American wilderness, settled on the Hudson. He first lived -at Albany, and being Secretary to the Indian Commissioners, he -acquired extensive tracts of land fronting the river, which afterwards -became the basis of great wealth. In 1710 these lands were -consolidated under one English patent, giving him a princely domain of -one hundred and sixty-two thousand acres for an "annual rent of -twenty-eight shillings, lawful money of New York," equalling about -$3.50. This "Livingston Manor" gave him a seat in the Colonial -Legislature, and he built his manor-house upon a grassy point along -the Hudson River bank, at the mouth of "Roeleffe Jansen's Kill," -flowing in a few miles north of Tivoli. The greater part of the manor -descended to his son Robert, who built a finer mansion there, known as -"Old Clermont," which the British burnt during the Revolution. In this -house was born the grandson, the famous Chancellor of New York, Robert -R. Livingston, who had so much to do with guiding the course of the -State in that momentous era. He built the present Clermont mansion on -the river bank above Tivoli. It is on a bluff shore, a grand estate -surrounding it, and sloping gradually up to the hill-tops stretching -to the horizon behind. This estate extended back originally to the -Berkshire hills. The full glory of the Catskills is spread out in -panorama before this noted mansion, with the distant hotels perched on -the mountain tops. - -Chancellor Livingston was sent Minister to France, and when he -returned he brought over merino sheep, introducing them into this -country. His great honor as a man of science comes from his connection -with Fulton's steamboat experiments. He met Fulton in Paris, and was -closely connected with the first steamboat on the Hudson, which in -fact could not have been built without his aid. By the help of -Livingston's money, Fulton in 1807 built this steamboat in New York, -naming her the "Clermont" in his honor. The experiment was publicly -derided as "Fulton's Folly," but he persevered and succeeded. The -"Clermont" was one hundred feet long, twelve feet beam and seven feet -depth. In September, 1807, she made the first successful experimental -trip from New York to Albany in thirty-six hours, charging the -passengers $7.50 fare. She afterwards made regular trips, and on -October 5, 1807, the _Albany Gazette_ announced: "Mr. Fulton's new -steamboat left New York on the 2d, at ten o'clock A.M., against a -strong tide, very rough water, and a violent gale from the north. She -made a headway against the most sanguine expectations and without -being rocked by the waves." Chancellor Livingston in Jefferson's -Administration negotiated the cession of Louisiana by France to the -United States, and ripe with honors, he died at Clermont in 1813. - - -THE CATSKILL MOUNTAINS. - -Opposite these great estates, the Catskill Mountains rise in all their -glory, spreading across the western horizon at a distance of eight to -ten miles from the Hudson River. They stretch for about fifteen miles, -and the range covers some five hundred square miles. The most -prominent peaks in the view are Round Top and the High Peak, rising -thirty-seven hundred and thirty-eight hundred feet, and in front of -them, on lower elevations, are the summer hotels that have such superb -views over the Hudson River valley. The town of Catskill on the -river--a flourishing settlement of five thousand people--is the usual -point of entrance, and from it a railway extends back to the bases of -the mountains. An inclined plane railway over a mile long then ascends -the face of the range, sixteen hundred feet high, to the hotels. This -"Otis Elevating Railway," which accomplishes its journey in about ten -minutes, is said to be the greatest inclined road in the world. The -Indians knew these grand peaks as the Onti Ora, or "Mountains of the -Sky," thus named because in some conditions of the atmosphere they -appear like a heavy cumulus cloud hanging above the horizon. The weird -Indian tradition was that among these mountains was held the treasury -of storms and sunshine for the Hudson, presided over by the spirit of -an old Indian squaw who dwelt within the range. She kept the day and -the night imprisoned, letting out one at a time, and made new moons -every month and hung them up in the sky, for they first appeared among -these mountains, and then she cut up the old moons into stars. The -great Manitou also employed her to manufacture thunder and clouds for -the valley. Sometimes she wove the clouds out of cobwebs, gossamers -and morning dew, and sent them off, flake by flake, floating in the -air, to give light summer showers. Sometimes she would blow up black -thunder-storms and send down drenching rains to swell the streams and -sweep everything away. All these storms coming from the west appeared -to originate in the mountains. The Indians also told of the imps that -haunted their dells, luring the hunters to places of peril. When the -Dutch colonists came along, they sent expeditions into the mountains, -searching for gold and silver, but chiefly found wildcats, causing -them to be named the Kaatsbergs, and from this their present title has -come to be, in time, the Kaatskills or the Catskills. - -These attractive mountains are a group of the Alleghenies, having -spurs extending northwest and west, at right angles to the general -trend of the range, thus giving them quite a different form from that -usual in the Allegheny ridges. They assume also more of the abrupt and -rocky character of the Alpine peaks, and instead of the usual folds or -fragments of arches commonly seen elsewhere, the Catskill crags are -masses of piled-up strata in the original horizontal position. They -have a most precipitous declivity facing the east towards the river -valley. Deep ravines, which the Dutch called "Cloves," are cut into -them by the mountain torrents, descending in places in beautiful -cascades, sometimes for hundreds of feet. This aggregation of rocky -cliffs and rounded peaks, and the intersecting gorges and smiling -verdant valleys, have become a great resort for the summer -pleasure-seeker, with myriads of hotels and boarding-places, where it -is said that eighty to a hundred thousand people will go in the -season. Their eastern verge is drained by the Hudson, while the many -brooks and kills flowing out to the westward are gathered into the two -branches that form the Delaware River. - -From their eastern front, where the huge hotels, built at twenty-four -hundred feet elevation, are anchored by ponderous chain cables to keep -them from being overthrown by the wind, there is an unrivalled view -over the valley. The Hudson River stretches a silvery streak across -the picture, and can be traced nearly a hundred miles from West Point -up to Albany. Its distant diminutive steamboats slowly move, and like -a shining thread, as the western sun strikes the car-windows and is -reflected, a railway train glides along the bank ten miles away, seen -so well, and yet so small. The perpendicular mountain wall brings the -valley almost beneath one's feet, the buildings looking like -children's toy houses, the trees like dwarfed bushes, and the fields, -with their alternating green and brown colors, contrasting as the -spaces on a chess-board. Wagons crawl like little ants upon the narrow -mud-colored lines representing roads. The broad valley, though its -surface is rugged and has high hills surmounted by patches of -woodland, is so far below that it appears from above as a flat floor. -Thus it stretches off to the river, with a sparkling pond here and -there, and extending beyond to the eastern horizon the view is -enclosed by the dark-blue Berkshire hills in Massachusetts, forty -miles away. Behind them, on favored days, rise like a misty haze, off -to the northeast, the White Mountains of New Hampshire. It was in this -region that James Fenimore Cooper located the "Leather Stocking -Tales," for his home at Cooperstown was on the Catskills' western -verge. Natty Bumppo climbed up the mountain to get this wonderful -view. "What see you when you get there?" asked Edward. "Creation," -said Natty, sweeping one hand around him in a circle, "all creation, -lad," and then he continued, "If being the best part of a mile in the -air, and having men's farms at your feet, with rivers looking like -ribands, and mountains bigger than the 'Vision' seeming to be -haystacks of green grass under you, give any satisfaction to a man, I -can recommend the spot." - - -RIP VAN WINKLE AND THE KAATERSKILL. - -These Catskill Mountains were purchased from the Indians on July 8, -1678, by a company of Dutch and English gentlemen, who took their -title at a solemn conclave held at the Stadt Huis in Albany, where the -Indian chief Mahak-Neminea attended with six representatives of his -tribe. The Indians seem to have soon disappeared, and the region for a -century or more remained mythical and almost unexplored, thus -contributing to the many fairy tales that have got mixed up with its -history. It was among these wonderful mountains that Washington Irving -was thus enabled to discover Rip Van Winkle. Down on the mountain -side, upon the margin of a deep dark glen leading up from Catskill -Village, stands Rip Van Winkle's ancient little cabin. It is within -the vast amphitheatre where Hendrick Hudson's ghostly crew held their -revels and beguiled him to drink from the flagon which put him into -his sleep of twenty years. It was a curious revel, for with the -gravest faces, and in mysterious silence, they rolled their nine-pin -balls, which echoed along the mountains like rumbling peals of -thunder. The huge cliffs overhanging the dark glen were evidently put -there for just such a ghostly scene, and even now the old denizens of -the Catskills are said to never hear a summer thunder-storm -reverberating among these mountains without concluding that the Dutch -ship's company from the "Half Moon" are again playing at their game of -nine-pins. There is still pointed out the slab of rock on which Rip -took his long sleep, and until recently there is said to have lived in -the old cabin an alleged "Van Winkle" who made a pretence to be a -descendant of the original Rip, and dispensed to the weary traveller -liquids fully as sulphurous as those in the flagon of the ghostly -crew. Among these mountains originated many of the quaint Dutch -legends that have got so interwoven into the early history of New York -that it is hard to separate the fact from the fiction. - -It was not until 1823 that the first summer hotel was built in the -Catskills, a rude little structure standing where is now the Mountain -House, near the summit of the inclined plane railway. The highest peak -of the range is Slide Mountain, in the western Catskills, at the head -of the Big Indian Valley, rising forty-two hundred and five feet. A -large portion of this mountain, including the crest, is a New York -State reservation, and from its top six States are in view. These -Catskill peaks are built up of huge and jagged piles of crags and -broken stone, through which the torrents have carved the "Cloves." The -stratified rocks are easily split into layers, and they furnish the -towns along the Hudson with much of the flagging used for footwalks. -Enormous boulders, some as big as a house, are liberally strewn about, -where they were dropped by the great glacier. Among the grandest of -the gorges, which the torrents have cleft, is the Kaaterskill Clove, -its stream, after various windings, finally flowing eastward towards -the Hudson. As the name Kaatskill comes from the cat, so the -Kaaterskill is regarded as derived from an animal of most complete -feline development, the "gentleman cat." The steep borders of this -Kaaterskill Clove, a wonderful canyon, down in the bottom of which ice -and snow remain during the summer, furnish many points of remarkable -outlook, giving a startling realization of the vast scale of these -mountains. The stream bubbles far below, heard but not seen, and the -mountain peaks above are occasionally obscured by passing clouds. -Adjoining this canyon is an immense gorge carved out of the hills, -into which pours the majestic Kaaterskill Falls, plunging down an -abyss of two hundred and sixty feet in two leaps, respectively of one -hundred and eighty and eighty feet. The stream is dammed above the -cataract, so that in times of drouth the water may be retained and the -falls thus be exhibited at intervals by turning on the water, as is -the case with various cataracts in Switzerland. Few waterfalls have -had more praises sung than this ribbon of spray, which was a favorite -both of Cooper and Bryant. An inscription on the rock at the foot -preserves the memory of a faithful dog, who once jumped down to follow -a stone, because he thought it his master's bidding. - -The unique description of the Kaaterskill Falls by Cooper's Leather -Stocking is interesting. He says, "The water comes crooking and -winding among the rocks, first so slow that a trout might swim in it, -and then starting and running just like any creature that wanted to -make a far spring, till it gets to where the mountain divides like the -cleft hoof of a deer, leaving a deep hollow for the brook to tumble -into. The first pitch is nigh two hundred feet, and the water looks -like flakes of driven snow afore it touches the bottom; and then the -stream gathers itself together again for a new start, and may be -flutters over fifty feet of flat rock before it falls for another -hundred, where it jumps about from shelf to shelf, first turning this -a-way, and then turning that a-way, striving to get out of the hollow, -till it finally comes to the plain. To my judgment, it's the best -piece of work I've met with in the woods, and none know how often the -hand of God is seen in the wilderness but them that rove it for a -man's life." William Cullen Bryant thus sings the praises of the -Kaaterskill Falls: - - "'Midst greens and shades the Kaaterskill leaps - From cliffs where the wood-flower clings; - All summer he moistens his verdant steeps - With the sweet, light spray of the mountain springs; - And he shakes the woods on the mountain side, - When they drip with the rains of autumn tide. - - "But when in the forest bare and old, - The blast of December calls, - He builds, in the star-light clear and cold, - A palace of ice where his torrent falls, - With turret, and arch, and fret-work fair, - And pillars blue as the summer air." - -At the head of the Kaaterskill Clove are Haines's Falls in a -picturesque environment, the stream making two main leaps of one -hundred and fifty and eighty feet, and other plunges lower down, -descending in all four hundred and seventy-five feet, within the -distance of a quarter of a mile. The water here is also dammed to make -a better exhibition. A main railway route into the Catskills is from -Kingston up the valley of Esopus Creek, gradually ascending to its -sources in the southwestern part of the range. This leads past the -highest peak, Slide Mountain, past Shandaken or "the rapid water," and -up the Big Indian Valley, at the head of which the summit is crossed -between the waters of the Hudson and the Delaware. The "Big Indian" -whose memory is thus preserved was Winnisook, a savage seven feet -high. He fell in love with a white maiden of the lowlands, who, -however, married one Joe Bundy instead, but got along so unhappily -that she finally ran away to her dusky lover. Winnisook on one -occasion came down to the lowlands with his tribe on a cattle-stealing -expedition, and Joe Bundy shot and mortally wounded him, saying, "The -best way to civilize the yellow serpent is to let daylight into his -black heart." The Big Indian was afterwards found dead standing -upright in the hollow of a large pine tree. The inconsolable maiden, -overwhelmed with grief, is said to have spent the rest of her life -near Winnisook's grave, while the stump of the pine was preserved -until the railroad came along and covered it with an embankment. The -whole Catskill region is full of charming places, and the vast summer -crowds who visit it never tire of the bracing atmosphere, and the -magnificent and ever-changing panorama of cloud and sunshine and -diversified landscape, exhibited from its magnificent mountain tops. - - "'Tis here the eastern sunbeams gild - The hills which rise on either hand; - Till showers of purple mist are spilled - In glittering dewdrops o'er the land." - - -THE DUTCH AND THE SHAKERS. - -When Hendrick Hudson came up the river he found sand-bars above the -Catskills, and anchored his "Half Moon" near Mount Merino, at what is -now the head of ship navigation upon the Hudson, one hundred and -fifteen miles from New York. Just beyond, a high plateau sloping to -the shore is covered by the city of Hudson, having a green island in -front, and over opposite the little town of Athens, with a lighthouse -in midstream between them. Hudson has ten thousand people, a -picturesque city sloping up Prospect Hill, which rises five hundred -feet for a noble background, and it once had more ships and commerce -than the city of New York. A colony of thrifty Quakers from New -England started the settlement, which had many fishermen and whalers, -and a large fleet of ships sailing to Europe and the Indies, fifteen -loaded vessels having cleared from its wharves in a single day. But -Napoleon's wars swept away its fleet and commerce, and the last ship -was sold in 1845, so that its commercial greatness is only a -tradition; although it has become a seat of considerable manufactures. -Its most noted citizen was General Worth, a hero of the Mexican War, -whose monument stands on Fifth Avenue, New York. Both sides of the -river here are inhabited by the Dutch, and in fact theirs is the -universal language of the Hudson from Kingston up to Albany. These -Dutch of New York have given the country some notable men, among them -General Philip Schuyler, Colonel Van Rensselaer, General Stryker and -others of the Revolution, and President Martin Van Buren. They view -with pardonable pride the important share they have had in founding -and building up the Empire State, and Rev. Dr. Henry A. Van Dyke has -poetically and ingeniously described the "Typical Dutchmen" of New -York: - - "They sailed from the shores of the Zuyder Zee - Across the stormy ocean, - To build for the world a new country - According to their notion: - A land where thought should be free as air - And speech be free as water; - Where man to man should be just and fair, - And Law be Liberty's daughter. - - "When the English fleet sailed up the bay, - The small Dutch town was taken; - But the Dutchmen there had come to stay; - Their hold was never shaken. - They could keep right on, and work and wait - For the freedom of the nation; - And we claim to-day that New York State - Is built on a Dutch foundation." - -From the Taghkanic range of the Berkshire hills, behind Hudson City, a -pretty stream comes down in many falls and cascades to the river just -northward, whose charming valley was known among the Dutch as "Het -Klauver Rack," or the "Clover Reach," modernized since, however, into -the Claverack Creek. The Columbia Springs are in this valley, and -farther on is Kinderhook Village, while back on the hills at a -thousand feet elevation above the river, most picturesquely located, -are the Lebanon Springs. Here is the noted Shaker settlement of New -Lebanon, founded by "Mother Ann" in the eighteenth century. The sect -has been declining in recent years, however. This is the governing -Shaker community, and it has been well said, of these celibates, that -"by frugality and industry they give us many useful things, but they -do not produce what the Republic most needs--men and women." They -cultivate large tracts of land, produce and sell quantities of herbs, -seeds and botanic medicines, and make baskets, brooms and sieves. Ann -Lee was the wife of a blacksmith in Manchester, England, and had been -the mother of several children. She had what she claimed as Divine -revelations, and was confined in a lunatic asylum for reviling -matrimony. Being released in 1770, she founded the new sect, -announcing, "I am Ann, the Word," and to escape further persecution -migrated to New York, where she was made its spiritual head. -Converting many, she established at New Lebanon the capital of the -Shaker world, which has been called "the rural Vatican which claims a -more despotic sway over the mind of man than ever the Roman Pontiff -assumed." She claimed her Divine revelation to be that she was the -female manifestation of Christ upon earth, the male manifestation -having been Jesus, and the Deity being considered a duality, composed -of both sexes. The Shakers call themselves the "United Society of -Believers in Christ's Second Appearing." They have entire community of -property, believe idleness to be sinful, and everyone able to work is -employed. In worshipping they "exercise both soul and body," singing -and dancing, and at times of fervent excitement making, with -regularity and perfect rhythm, rapid bodily evolutions. In these they -form in circles around a band of singers, to whose music they "go -forth in the dances of them that make merry." Since the death of -"Mother Ann" the Shaker community has been ruled by what is known as -the "Holy Lead," composed of the first and second elders and -elderesses. A peculiar tenet is that persons may join the sect after -death, and among these posthumous members are Washington, Lafayette, -Pocahontas, Napoleon and Tamerlane; and they hold that woman is -supreme over mankind. Near the village and among the Berkshire hills, -just over the border in Massachusetts, is their "Mount Sinai," where, -according to the tradition, the Shakers hunted Satan throughout a long -summer night, finally killing and burying him. They tell us that -Washington and Lafayette still keep guard over his grave, mounted on -white horses, and can be seen on summer nights by any of the truly -faithful who may pass that way. - -The village of Kinderhook is in the Claverack Valley, and out in front -on the Hudson is its port, Stuyvesant Landing, where the testy old -Governor, Peter Stuyvesant the "Headstrong," made his landing when he -came up the river to attack the great Patroon, Killian Van Rensselaer. -Hendrick Hudson is said to have first named Kinderhook, or "Children's -Point," because he saw here a crowd of Indian children watching his -vessel. On the Lindenwold estate at Kinderhook, embowered in linden -trees, lived for many years President Martin Van Buren, a descendant -of the early Dutch settlers, and the shrewdest New York politician of -his time. Over on the western bank is the Chaney Tinker Lighthouse, -mounted on a crag a hundred feet high, and the distant horizon is -bounded by the Helderbergs, a long range of peaks, lower, however, -than the Catskills. Above, at Schodack Landing on the eastern shore, -was the seat of the council-fire of the Mohicans, called by the French -the _Loups_ or Wolves. The word "Is-cho-da" in their language means -the "fireplace," and from this has come the name. When Hudson ascended -the river, he found the Mohicans occupying its shores for a hundred -miles above Rondout Creek, but the race dwindled, until it became the -handful to whom the noted Jonathan Edwards ministered in the -eighteenth century, at Stockbridge, Massachusetts. Hudson passed a day -with them at Schodack, was treated hospitably, and wrote that their -land was "the finest for cultivation he ever set foot on." Two -centuries later, Cooper lamented the _Last of the Mohicans_. - - -THE LAND OF THE PATROONS. - -We have now come to the high and rocky Bear or Beeren Island, which in -New York's early days was the southern boundary on the river of the -domain of the great Patroon, Killian Van Rensselaer. It marks the -limit of two counties on either bank, Greene and Columbia below, -joining Albany and Rensselaer above. Here stood the proud castle of -Rensselaerstein, cannoned and fortified, where the Patroon's agent, -the bold and doughty Nicolas Kroon, compelled all the Dutch sloops -coming up from New Amsterdam to dip their colors in token of his -sovereignty, and pay tribute for the privilege of entering the sacred -domain. We are told that all passing craft yielded homage excepting -two large whales, which in 1647 swam by and went up to the Mohawk, -greatly terrifying the honest Albany burghers. Above the island, the -Normanskill and other streams come down from the Helderbergs, making -the shoals of the "Overslaugh," which the Government has improved by -an extensive dyke system to deepen the river channel up to Albany. -There are long and narrow alluvial islands on these flats, among which -tows of Erie Canal barges thread their careful way; and ahead, the -city of Albany comes into view with its bridges in front, and the -grand new Capitol building elevated high on the hill above the town, -its red-topped pyramidal roofs seen from afar. - -We are now at the domain of the great Patroon, the region around -Albany and Troy. When Hudson anchored his ship below the shoals, he -came with five of his sailors up to Albany in a row-boat and examined -the location. The result was that from his report Albany was actually -settled, five years later, in 1614, by the "United Nieu Nederlandts -Company," who built a trading-post, thus making Albany, after -Jamestown in Virginia, the oldest European settlement in the original -thirteen colonies. The post was located on an island just below the -city, near which the Normanskill flowed out through the forest on the -western bank--the Indian Tawasentha, or "place of many dead." This -island was called the "Kasteel," and in the "castle" a garrison of -about a dozen Dutchmen conducted a profitable fur-trade with the -Mohicans. Ultimately a freshet drove them to the mainland and they -built a fort at the mouth of the Normanskill, and in 1623 a stockade -was constructed above, at Albany, named Fort Orange in honor of the -Prince of the Netherlands. In 1629 colonists were sent out from -Holland, and the patroon system established. The Dutch West India -Company made arrangements for extensively colonizing the New -Netherlands, and passed a charter of exemptions and privileges to -encourage patroons (or patrons) to make settlements. Every patroon -establishing a colony was to have there within four years, as -permanent residents, at least fifty persons, over fifteen years of -age, of whom one-fourth were to arrive the first year. A director of -the company, Killian Van Rensselaer, a pearl merchant of Amsterdam, -was granted a patroonship, and got the officials at Fort Orange to buy -extensive tracts from the Indians. He thus, with three others, -acquired a manor extending twenty-four miles along the Hudson, from -Beeren Island up to the Mohawk River, and this manor, which -afterwards became the sole property of his family, was subsequently -enlarged to extend twenty-four miles back from the Hudson in both -directions, and contained over seven hundred thousand acres. The -Patroon was a feudal lord, possessing absolute title to the soil, with -power to administer civil and criminal justice, and enjoying other -rights that reduced his colonists to a condition little better than -serfs. His son Johannes inherited this patroonship from Killian, and -it went by entail through five generations, when the United States -laws barred further succession. The last Patroon, General Stephen Van -Rensselaer, died in 1839, and his son Stephen, the sixth of the line, -still styled by courtesy "the Patroon," died in 1868, aged eighty -years. The original settlement of Fort Orange in the manor of -Rensselaerwyck, as it was called, became a centre of the fur-trade, -and a town quickly grew around the fort, which the English, upon their -occupation in 1664, named Albany. - - -THE ANTI-RENT WAR. - -As population increased on the adjacent lands, they began taking -leases from the Patroon, paying rent for their farms, and this -produced one of the bitterest conflicts known in American politics, -the New York "Anti-Rent War." After the Revolution the inhabitants -increased rapidly, and General Stephen Van Rensselaer, then the -Patroon, leased farms in perpetuity, upon the nominal consideration -for eight years of "a peppercorn a year," and at the expiration of -this time these leases drew a rent estimated at six per cent. interest -on the land value, about $5 per acre, payable in the produce of the -soil, fowls, and days' service with wagons and horses, the latter -designed to secure road-making. When the old General died in 1839, the -entail being abolished, he divided the manor between his two sons, -Stephen getting Albany County on the west bank, and William, -Rensselaer County on the east bank, including Troy. He had been a -lenient landlord, but the tenants became anxious, especially about -what was known as the "quarter sales clause" in their leases, giving -the landlord the right to claim one-fourth the purchase money whenever -the land passed by purchase, this condition being really inserted to -prevent alienation, as it did not become operative when the land was -sold or descended to one of the original tenant's family. The tenants -proposed that the landlord should sell the reservations, releasing -them from the rentals and making them owners in fee, but this was -declined. The tenants then employed counsel, who advised that the -landlord's right was absolute, but suggested, while there was no legal -remedy, that it would be good policy to make the rent collections so -difficult, the landlord would be willing to come to terms; that they -band together and give each other notice of the approach of bailiffs, -so the service of legal process would be troublesome. William H. -Seward, Governor of New York, espoused their cause, and to this -advice, he being a candidate for re-election in 1840, he added the -recommendation that the "anti-renters" should organize and send to the -Legislature men who would hold the balance of power between the great -parties, thus forcing the passage of laws relieving them. - -Then began the "anti-rent" conflicts convulsing New York politics for -years. They formed an active and powerful political party, and created -other organizations, disguised as Indians, who attacked the law -officers. These supposed red men killed a man at Grafton in Rensselaer -County, and all legal efforts failed to discover the culprits. Other -similar manors existed in different parts of New York State where -payment of rents of much the same character was resisted, and these -regions also were excited. Outbreaks continued several years, until in -1845 Governor Silas Wright issued a proclamation declaring Delaware -County, on the western verge of the Catskills, in a state of -insurrection. This caused additional trouble, but the "anti-renters" -disposed of Wright by defeating him for re-election in 1846, and he -died soon afterwards. They elected their own candidate for Governor, -John Young, who pardoned out of jail nearly everybody imprisoned for -"anti-rent" crimes. The disputes finally got into the courts, and the -Van Rensselaers, fatigued with the controversy, sold all their rights -to a Colonel Church. He was sustained by legal decisions, and then -adopted a compromising policy, which quieted the agitation. He -released the rentals and gave fee-simple titles, so that at least -three-fourths of the old manor became without rental. His method of -compromise was based on a scale: for a farm of one hundred and sixty -acres where the annual rent was twenty-two and one-half bushels of -wheat, four fat fowls and one day's service, the value was fixed at -$26, being six per cent. interest on $433, and by paying this the -tenant got his fee-simple title. Thus the harassing conflict which -frequently required troops to be called out at Albany and elsewhere -was finally adjusted. - - -THE CITY OF ALBANY. - -Albany, the New York State Capital, has over one hundred thousand -people. The city rises from the strip of level land along the river -bank, in a series of terraces, to a height of nearly two hundred feet, -the top being surmounted by the Capitol Building in a spacious park, -back of which the surface extends westward in a sandy, almost level -plain. The city spreads broadly along the river, where there are -wharves, foundries, railway stations, mills, storehouses and lumber -yards. Deep ravines are scarred into the hill behind them, and rows of -fine old Knickerbocker houses line the hilly streets, with -frequent church towers and spires rising above them. The main -street, just back from the river, is Broadway, of varying width, but -of the first commercial importance. At right angles to it, leading up -the hill, is State Street, a noble avenue, one hundred and fifty feet -wide, the front approach to the Capitol. This is the finest building -in New York State, was thirty years in construction, and has cost -$25,000,000. It is a quadrangle three hundred feet wide and four -hundred feet deep, with an unfinished central tower, intended to be -three hundred feet high, and Louvre pavilion towers at the angles. It -is built in the French Renaissance, of a light-colored granite, -pleasantly contrasting with the red-tiled roofs. Few of the -pretentious buildings of the world occupy a more commanding situation, -standing aloft like the Capitol at Washington, and, seen from afar, a -complete old-time French chateau. Mr. E. A. Freeman has written of it, -"If anyone had come up to me and told me in French, old or new, that -the new Capitol was 'Le Chateau de Monseigneur le duc d'Albanie,' I -could almost have believed him." Its architecture combines features -adapted from the Louvre and Hotel de Ville of Paris and the Lyons -Maison de Commerce. It stands in Capitol Square, a park of about eight -acres, of which it covers three acres. The finest halls are the Senate -and Assembly Chambers, to which grand stairways lead, and the interior -is decorated with rich carvings, rare marbles and emblematic -frescoes. The New York State Library, of nearly two hundred thousand -volumes, is in the building. Upon the six dormer windows opening in -the interior court are emblazoned the heraldic insignia of six noted -families distinguished in New York history--Stuyvesant, Schuyler, -Livingston, Jay, Clinton and Tompkins. - - [Illustration: _The State Capitol, Albany, N. Y._] - -Southward from the Capitol Square is the spacious and comfortable -Executive Mansion, with an extensive lawn, on Eagle Street. On the -same street, to the northeast of the Square, is the City Hall, a fine -Gothic building with an elaborate bell tower. Also on Eagle Street is -the Albany Medical College, having one of the finest Medical Museums -in the country. Among its curios is the embalmed body of Calvin Edson, -the "walking skeleton." This curious man came to Albany in 1830, being -then forty-two years old and five feet two inches high, yet weighing -only sixty pounds. He exhibited himself, and appeared in a play as -_Jeremiah Thin_. He had a good appetite, but the more he ate the -thinner he grew, until in 1833, the food ceasing to nourish him, he -literally starved to death amid plenty, and when the end came, weighed -but forty-five pounds. His widow sold his body to the college, and he -now stands in a glass case, preserved with the skin on, labelled "No. -1," and excepting discoloration is said to appear not very different -from when living. On the northern side of the Square is the Albany -Academy, one of the chief city schools, where Professor Joseph Henry -was for several years an instructor, and noted as the place where he -first demonstrated the theory of the magnetic telegraph by ringing a -bell by an electric spark transmitted through a mile of wire strung -around the room. The Dudley Astronomical Observatory is a small but -imposing building upon an eminence overlooking the Hudson, having a -munificent endowment begun by Mrs. Blandina Dudley in memory of her -husband, a wealthy Albany merchant. A charming spot is Washington -Park, westward from the Capitol, an enclosure of eighty-one acres, -surrounded by ornamental villas, with magnificent views and most -tastefully arranged. Part of this Park is land given the city by King -James II. - - -INTERESTING BUILDINGS. - -The most noted old Albany building is at the northern end of Broadway, -in grounds extending to the river, and surrounded by fine trees, the -ancient Van Rensselaer Mansion, commonly called the "Patroon's,"--a -broad house with porch and wide central hall. This occupies the site -of the first mansion, which was covered with a roof of reeds. Over on -the opposite side of the river at Greenbush, the "Greene Bosch" or -"pine woods" of the original settlers, is the Patroon's other -residence, built of bricks from Holland, by the second Patroon -Johannes. Port-holes were cut in the walls for the musketeers, it -having been a fort in the Indian forays. The family burial-ground -adjoins the mansion. State Street, at the corner of Pearl, which is -parallel with Broadway, is the most interesting historic locality of -ancient Albany. Here stood that elaborate dwelling of the -Knickerbockers, regarded as the best specimen of old Dutch -architecture in New York State, the "Vanderheyden Palace," an -extensive building with two tall gables facing the street. One of the -old burghers, Johannes Beekman, built it in 1725, and during the -Revolution Jacob Vanderheyden of Troy bought it, and lived there many -years in the almost regal state of the Dutch aristocracy. Washington -Irving tells of it in the story of Dolph Heyliger, in _Bracebridge -Hall_, as the residence of "Herr Anthony Vanderheyden," and when -Irving transformed Van Tassel's old farmhouse into his villa at -Sunnyside he made a gable in imitation of one of these, and also -captured the old weather-vane of the "Palace"--a horse going at full -speed--to mount on top of it. Upon the opposite corner was the quaint -"Lydius House," the home of Rev. John Lydius, the owner of a great -manor at Fort Edward, farther up the Hudson, and in front of it stood -the crooked elm, giving the locality the name of the "Old Elm Tree -Corner." This tree is said to have been planted by Philip Livingston, -a signer of the Declaration of Independence, who lived in an adjoining -house. The "Lydius House" had been built as a parsonage for the -clergyman sent out to the old Dutch church, Rev. Gideon Schaats, the -bricks, tiles, iron and woodwork, together with the church bell and -pulpit, all coming from Holland in 1657, in the same ship. During many -years its only occupant was Balthazar Lydius, an eccentric bachelor, a -tall, spare, morose and irritable Dutchman, fond of bottle and pipe, -and having a round bullet head thinly sprinkled with white hair. He -gloried in his celibacy until the infirmities of age came upon him, -when it is said he gave a pint of gin for an Indian squaw, called her -his wife, and they lived contentedly together until he died. This was -the oldest brick building in the United States; its partitions were -made of mahogany and the exposed beams were richly carved. - -The antique pulpit, which came across in the ship with the materials -of the "Lydius House," has done duty from then until now in various -Dutch churches of Albany. It is of carved oak, octagonal in form. The -original church stood in the middle of State Street, a low building -with a tall pyramidal roof and little steeple, since removed to widen -the street. The church gallery was quite low, while the huge stove -warming the building was put upon a platform so high that the sexton -had to step on it from the gallery when he wanted to kindle the fire. -The astute Albany philosophers of those days believed heat descended -from above. The bell-rope hung from the little steeple down into the -centre of the church, and here, at eight o'clock at night, was rung -the "suppawn bell," a signal to the obedient people to eat their -"suppawn" or hasty pudding, and go to bed. Albany in the olden time -had a quaint aspect because of the predominance of steep-roofed -houses, with their terraced gables, but many of them have given way -for modern improvements. Upon State Street, at the corner of James, -lived in one of these the famous Anneke Jans Bogardus, who died there -in 1663, the owner of the lands in New York city now partly held by -Trinity Church, which her heirs have acquired so much notoriety in -trying to recover. A bank now occupies the site. Albany has had some -interesting history. In 1754 the Congress met here which was the first -colonial organization, and finally developed into the Continental -Congress. Seven colonies, north of Maryland, sent twenty-five -Commissioners, who made a treaty with the Iroquois, the Indian league -of the "Six Nations." Afterwards, under the guidance of Benjamin -Franklin, a plan was adopted for a union of the colonies, its -provisions being much similar to the United States Constitution of -1787. Thus the germ of the American Union was first developed at -Albany. Her influences have been powerful in politics. For many years -the "Albany Regency" controlled the old Democratic party, this name -having been given by Thurlow Weed, then editor of the _Albany Evening -Journal_, to a junta of politicians usually assembling there, headed -by Martin Van Buren. Subsequently, another combination at Albany was -potential in ruling the Whigs and in controlling the Republican -party--the political firm of "Seward, Weed and Greeley." Albany -manoeuvres managed to control the preliminaries that twice made -Grover Cleveland President; and in both parties the Albany political -"patroons" are still industriously at work. - -Among the finest Albany buildings is the magnificent new Episcopal -Cathedral of All Saints, an English Gothic structure, as yet -incomplete, which will be one of the most beautiful churches in -America. In the southern part of the city is the Schuyler Mansion, -built in 1760, a brick house with a broad front, having a closed -octagonal porch over the doorway and spacious apartments; its lawns in -the olden time reaching to the Hudson, where now the city is densely -built. Peter Schuyler was the first Mayor of Albany, and his -descendant, General Philip Schuyler of the Revolution, occupied a -large space in New York history. In this house Alexander Hamilton was -married to Elizabeth Schuyler, and a subsequent owner, Mrs. McIntosh, -was made the wife of Millard Fillmore, President of the United States. -General Schuyler and his family always dispensed a princely -hospitality in this mansion. In 1781, towards the close of the -Revolution, it was the scene of a stirring event. The British, -discovering that Schuyler was at home, tried to capture him. The house -was then distant from the small town and surrounded by forests. A -party of Canadians and Indians prowled for several days in the woods, -and capturing a laborer, learnt that the General was in the house with -a bodyguard of six men. The laborer escaped afterwards and notified -the General. Upon a sultry day in August, when three of the guards -were asleep in the basement and the other three lying on the grass in -front of the house, a servant announced that a stranger at the back -gate wished to speak with the General. The errand being apprehended, -the doors and windows were barred, the family collected up stairs, and -the General hastened to his bedchamber for his arms. From the window -he saw the place surrounded by armed men, and fired a pistol to arouse -the guards on the grass and alarm the town. At this moment the enemy -burst open the doors, when Mrs. Schuyler suddenly discovered she had -left her infant in the cradle in the hall below. She rushed to the -rescue, but the General stopped her. One of her daughters then quickly -ran down stairs, and carried the infant up in safety. An Indian who -had entered hurled a tomahawk, as she rushed up the stairs, which cut -her dress within a few inches of the baby's head, and striking the -hand-rail made a deep scar. As she ran up stairs, the Tory commander, -thinking her a servant, called out, "Wench, where is your master?" -With great presence of mind she quickly replied, "Gone to alarm the -town." General Schuyler heard her, and taking advantage, threw up a -window, crying out loudly, as if to a multitude, "Come on, my brave -fellows, surround the house and secure the villains!" The marauders, -who were then plundering the plate in the dining-room, becoming -frightened, beat a hasty retreat, taking prisoners the three guards -who were in the house. The brave daughter, who made the gallant -rescue, afterwards became the wife of the last Patroon Van Rensselaer, -while the infant she saved lived until 1857, and was Schuyler's last -surviving child, Mrs. Catharine Cochran of Oswego, New York. General -Schuyler is buried in the beautiful Albany Rural Cemetery, north of -the city, and nearby is Palmer's famous figure of the "Angel at the -Sepulchre." Here is also the tomb of President Chester A. Arthur, who -died in 1886. - - -THE MODERN TROY. - -Travelling northward along the Hudson, the broad basin where the Erie -Canal comes out to the river is passed, being shielded by a pier -eighty feet wide and nearly a mile long. Here is the vast storehouse -for Canadian and Adirondack lumber brought by the canals, a leading -Albany industry, there being ten miles of dockage within this basin -for the lumber barges. The Erie Canal from the west, and also the -Champlain Canal from the north, here have their outlets into the -Hudson. Both sides of the river are lined with villages between Albany -and Troy--there being Greenbush, East Albany, Bath, Troy and West -Troy, and beyond, Lansingburgh and Waterford at the confluence of the -Mohawk. This series of cities and towns stretching for ten miles along -the shores, with intervals of farm land, have an aggregate population -exceeding three hundred thousand, with large manufactures and -commerce. There are extensive iron mills on the river and upon Green -Island in front of Troy, where General Gates had the camp for his -Revolutionary army which fought Burgoyne at Saratoga. Upon the western -bank is the Watervliet Arsenal, where the government manufactures army -supplies, an enclosure of over a hundred acres. Troy is a fringe of -city extending along the eastern bank and up the steep ridge behind, -crowned by the imposing Byzantine buildings and spires of St. Joseph's -Theological Seminary. This high ridge, bordering the alluvial flat on -which the modern Troy is built, thoroughly carries out the Grecian -idea which was adopted to supersede the original Dutch name of -Vanderheyden which was given the town. From the northeast Mount -Olympus and from the east Mount Ida frown upon Troy, and this modern -Mount Ida does not hesitate at times to hurl down Jove's thunderbolts -in the form of destructive landslips. Derick Vanderheyden leased this -estate from the Patroon in 1720, and it slept in Dutch peacefulness -until after the Revolution, when in 1789 it had twelve dwellings and -the freeholders adopted the present name. Just before this, Jacob -Vanderheyden had removed to Albany to occupy his "Palace." The opening -of the Erie Canal gave Troy great prosperity. It has fine water-power, -and thus became a busy manufacturing centre. Here are the great Albany -and Rensselaer Iron Works, which were famous makers of armor plates -and cannon in the Civil War, and the Berdan Horseshoe Mill, the -largest in the country, which has the biggest water-wheel, eighty feet -in diameter, turned by one of the kills coming down from the mountain -behind the town. It was here that John Ericsson built the little -"Monitor" ironclad which defeated the "Merrimac" at Fortress Monroe in -1862. There are also great textile mills and a vast laundry. Its -famous Polytechnic Institute is an endowment of the last Patroon, -Stephen Van Rensselaer, who was Troy's steady benefactor. - - -THE DEFEAT OF BURGOYNE. - -The Mohawk, its principal tributary, flows into the Hudson just above -Troy, and each, being a mountain torrent, has brought down large -alluvial deposits making extensive flats between the hills, so that -their junction is marked by fertile islands and low shores, backed by -picturesque ridges bordering broad valleys. Here are Green Island, -Adam's Island and Van Schaick's Island, making an extensive delta. The -Mohawk, after flowing from central New York nearly one hundred and -forty miles in a rich agricultural section, pours down the falls at -Cohoes, and enters the Hudson through four separate channels formed by -these islands. The Mohawk Valley is largely a pastoral region, its -dairies and cheeses having much fame, and in the lower valley -hop-growing and broom-making are important industries, chiefly -controlled by the Shakers. At one of their settlements, about six -miles northwest of Albany, their foundress, "Mother Ann," who died in -1784, is buried. The Hudson flows to its confluence with the Mohawk, -with generally rapid current, bordered by rich plains, as it is -ascended to Stillwater, and thirteen miles beyond, to Schuylerville, -where Fish Creek comes in, the outlet of Saratoga Lake. - -Here is a region of great historic interest, for through it marched -Sir John Burgoyne's army in 1777 to disastrous defeat. At and above -Stillwater, and Bemis's Heights beyond, was the scene of his closing -conflict, while Schuylerville stands upon the site of his camp at the -time of his final surrender. General Schuyler, from whom the village -is named, was then the owner of the entire domain of Saratoga. -Burgoyne had come south from Canada to meet another British force -thought to be advancing up the Hudson from New York, the design being -to cut the rebellious colonies in two and defeat them in detail. The -rebels hung upon Burgoyne's flanks, and at Bennington, Vermont, -Stark's bold movement in August captured a large force of Hessians. -Schuyler sent Arnold up the Mohawk, who cut off another detachment -under St. Leger, who had come over from Oswego, intending to make a -detour to Albany. In September, Burgoyne came to Saratoga, and had his -first contest south of the springs, with the Americans under Gates. -Afterwards, each army encamped within cannon-shot of the other until -October 7th, Burgoyne all the while hoping for some diversion from the -lower Hudson. The British camp was on the river below Schuylerville, -and on that day they marched out to give battle, Burgoyne's chief -lieutenant, General Fraser, directing the movements. Fraser was in -full uniform, mounted upon an iron-gray steed, and became a most -conspicuous object. Colonel Morgan, who had a force of Virginia -sharpshooters, perceived this, and calling a number of his best men -around him, pointed to the British right wing, which was making a -victorious advance under Fraser's inspiration, and said: "That gallant -officer is General Fraser; I admire and honor him, but it is necessary -he should die; victory for the enemy depends on him; take your -stations in that clump of bushes and do your duty." Within five -minutes afterwards he was mortally wounded. His aid, recognizing that -he was a conspicuous mark, had just observed: "Would it not be prudent -for you to retire from this place?" and he had scarcely got the reply -out of his mouth, "My duty forbids me to fly from danger," when he was -shot. He survived throughout the night, and asked to be buried in a -redoubt he had built on a hill near the Hudson. He died next day, and -at sunset a funeral procession moved towards the redoubt. The -Americans saw it, and, ignorant of what it meant, cannonaded, but -desisted on learning the mournful object; and then a single cannon, -fired at intervals, reverberated along the Hudson; an American -minute-gun in memory of a brave soldier. - -Fraser's fall caused the British defeat, and they afterwards abandoned -guns and baggage trains and retreated north to Schuylerville. -Burgoyne's provisions gave out, many auxiliaries deserted him, the -camp was incessantly cannonaded, and finally, with his forces reduced -below six thousand men, on October 17th, he surrendered. It was said -at the time, in the British Parliament, that the campaign thus ended -"had left the country stripped of nearly every evidence of civilized -occupation," and in its result it was declared to be "one of the -fifteen decisive battles of the world." There were six members of -Parliament among the captive officers, and Burgoyne gave up forty-two -brass cannon. His army was held in captivity nearly five years, till -the end of the war, at first near Boston, and later in Virginia. This -victory was the turning-point of the Revolution. Among its results -were, an appreciation of twenty per cent. in Continental money; the -bold stand of Lord Chatham and Edmund Burke in Parliament, denouncing -the method of conducting the war; the sending of cheering words to -the struggling colonies by Spain, Holland, Russia and the Vatican; and -the paving of the way for France to acknowledge the independence of -the United States--all the result, under Providence, of Fraser's -indiscreet devotion to duty. In the neighborhood is the great -Methodist camp-meeting ground of Round Lake, and farther on Ballston -Spa, where the Kayaderosseras Creek winds through a beautifully shaded -valley and flows into Saratoga Lake. In the early part of the -nineteenth century this was the greatest watering-place in America, -its waters being chemically similar to those of Saratoga. Its Sans -Souci Hotel, opened in 1804, was then the grandest in the country, and -here were hatched most of the political schemes of the days of -Presidents Madison, Monroe and Jackson, the "Albany Regency" in its -palmiest days flourishing throughout the summer time on its lawns and -porches. But much of Ballston's glory has departed, eclipsed by the -newer radiance of its great neighbor, six miles away. The Saratoga -Lake is three miles east of Ballston, an oval-shaped lake eight miles -long, from which Fish Creek meanders off to the Hudson at -Schuylerville. As the fishes thus ascended from the river into the -lake, the Indians named it Saraghoga, or "the place of the herrings." - - -SARATOGA. - -The famous watering-place, Saratoga, is a comparatively small town -upon a level and somewhat barren plateau. A short distance north of -Saratoga Lake, with a boulevard and electric road connecting them, is -the shallow valley wherein are the famous mineral springs. Their -virtues were long known to the Iroquois, and when the renowned French -explorer Jacques Cartier ascended the St. Lawrence in 1535, searching -for the "northwest passage," the Indians on the river bank told him -about these springs and their wonderful cures. The Mohawks, who had -these waters in their special keeping, regarded them with veneration. -In August, 1767, their great English friend and adopted sachem, Sir -William Johnson, who is said to have been the father of a hundred -children, was suffering from re-opened wounds received in battle, and -the tribe held a solemn council and determined to take him to this -"medicine spring of the Great Spirit." They carried him on a litter -many miles to the "High Rock Spring," and he was the first white man -who saw it. His strength was regained in four days, and he wrote -General Schuyler, "I have just returned from a most amazing spring -which almost effected my cure." This spring, coming out of its conical -rock reservoir, much like a diminutive geyser, and then called the -"Round Rock Spring," was the first one known. There were occasional -visitors during the Revolution, and the cutting of a road some time -afterwards from the Mohawk through the forests to reach it, opened the -place to the public. To-day, Saratoga is an aggregation of some of -the greatest hotels in the world, with many smaller ones and numerous -cottages. There is a permanent population of about twelve thousand, -often swollen to fifty thousand in August and September, the "season." -A shallow valley contains most of the springs, around which the town -clusters, with extensive suburbs of wooden houses, groves and gardens. -The valley is crossed by the chief street, Broadway, a magnificent -avenue, one hundred and fifty feet wide, with spacious sidewalks -shaded by rows of grand old elms and, in the centre of the settlement, -bordered by enormous hotels. The greatest of these is the famous Grand -Union, a vast structure of iron and brick, fronting eight hundred feet -on Broadway, and having over two thousand beds, the largest -watering-place hotel in the world. A garden and park are enclosed by -its spacious wings, and here fountains plash and bands play, while the -visitors promenade or sit and gossip upon the extensive piazzas. Its -front piazza, spreading along Broadway, is eight hundred feet long and -three stories high. Its dining-hall is two hundred and seventy-five -feet long and sixty feet wide, the largest in existence, and seats -seventeen hundred people at table. The United States Hotel, north of -the Grand Union, and Congress Hall, across Broadway, are also enormous -caravansaries, and in busy times these three hotels will accommodate -over six thousand guests, the cost of running each of them for one -day being $7500 to $10,000. Everything in these gigantic hotels is -arranged upon a scale of splendor and immensity almost requiring a -railway train to take the visitor about them. - -Many of the twenty-eight mineral springs of Saratoga border Broadway -or are near it, and the most noted, the "Congress" and the "Hathorn," -are on either side of Congress Hall, thus being easy of access. The -geologists say these springs rise from a line of "fault," which brings -the slaty formations of the Hudson River against the sandstones and -limestones that are above. They are generally muriated saline springs -of about 50° temperature, the Congress Spring having about the -strength of Kissingen Racoczy, but a milder taste, while the Hathorn -Spring, its great rival, contains more chloride of sodium and iron. -Some of the springs are chalybeate, others sulphurous or iodinous, and -all are highly charged with carbonic acid gas. The Saratoga Seltzer -resembles the seltzer of Germany, and the Geyser Spring is so highly -charged that when drawn from a faucet it foams like soda water. The -waters are both tonic and cathartic. The "High Rock Spring" bubbles up -through an aperture in a conical rock composed of calcareous tufa, -which has been formed by the deposits from the waters. This rock is -four feet high, with a rounded top, in the centre of which is a -circular opening a foot in diameter. The depth of the spring from the -present top of the rock is thirty-two feet. The waters used to -overflow occasionally and increase the size of the rock by the -deposits, but a tree was blown down and cracked the rock, since which -the waters will only rise to about six inches below the top. A pagoda -covers it, beneath which water is ladled out to the thirsty. The -Congress Spring is in a tasteful park, having this and the Columbian -Spring under an elaborate pavilion. This Congress Spring was found by -a hunting party who went through the valley in 1792, and named it in -honor of a member of Congress who was with them. To this park go the -crowds in the morning before breakfast to drink the waters, which are -freely furnished either cold or hot, and music plays while the people -drink glass after glass. Each pint of Congress water contains about -seventy-five grains of mineral constituents and forty-nine cubic -inches of carbonic acid gas. It is cathartic and alterative. The -Columbian Spring has much more iron, and is a tonic and diuretic. The -Hathorn Spring is in a large building adjoining Broadway, and was -found when digging for the foundations of a new house. It is a -powerful cathartic, containing nearly ninety-four grains of mineral -constituents and forty-seven cubic inches of carbonic acid gas in each -pint, and it is also a tonic and diuretic. The chief medicinal -rivalries of Saratoga have been based upon the respective merits of -the Congress and Hathorn waters, and great controversy has at times -been thus inspired. - -There are other noted springs--the Hamilton, a mild cathartic; the -Putnam, chalybeate, and having a bathing establishment; the Pavilion, -a cathartic; the United States, a mild, agreeable tonic; and the -Seltzer, rising through a tube several feet high, over the rim of -which it flows, a sparkling and invigorating drink. The Empire closely -resembles Congress water; the Red Spring is charged with much iron; -and the Saratoga "A" Spring is a mild cathartic. Then there are the -Saratoga Vichy, Saratoga Kissingen, Carlsbad, Magnetic, Imperial, -Royal, Star, Excelsior, Eureka, White Sulphur and Geyser Springs, most -of them in the outskirts. The Geyser spouts twenty-five feet high, is -deliciously cold, and exhilarates like champagne. The Glacier Spring -nearby was found by sinking an artesian well three hundred feet; its -waters spout high above the tube, and are powerfully cathartic. There -are six spouting springs, the Geyser being the best known; but of all -the springs of Saratoga, the waters of barely a half-dozen are much -used. The Congress, Empire and Hathorn Springs send their bottled -waters all over the world. The springs are all wonderfully clear and -sparkling, most of the waters pleasant to drink, and it is such a -Saratoga fashion to go about imbibing and tasting these waters of -rival virtues, that the visitors sometimes get into a plethoric -condition that becomes uncomfortable if not dangerous. But the springs -are not the chief attraction of Saratoga, and in fact the veteran -visitors do not partake of them at all, but freely confess that they -come not to drink the waters, but to see the life and be "in the -swim," for in the season the crowd at Saratoga, unlike anywhere else, -includes the leaders of all sets. The proximity of the Adirondacks -gives the bracing ozone of mountain air, and in the cosmopolitan -throng is generally included the best the country can show of fashion -and wealth. It is a great place for holding all kinds of conventions, -and many are the political, corporation and stock-jobbing schemes -hatched on the great hotel piazzas. It is also famous for dresses and -diamonds, and wonderful is the elaborateness of millinery, gowns and -jewels. The glitter of diamonds dazzles at every turn as they sparkle -under the brilliant electric lights illuminating the evening scene. It -was said not long ago, in a description of Saratoga, that if the Grand -Union Hotel should ever perish in the height of the season, with all -it contains, the future explorer who might delve in its ruins would -come upon the rarest diamond mine the world ever knew. - -Upon Saratoga Lake is the famous restaurant where "Saratoga chips" -were invented and are served, this route being a favorite drive for -the people who attend the numerous conventions, for whose use an -elaborate Convention Hall has been erected on Broadway, seating five -thousand persons. On the western shore of the lake, just where the -Kayaderosseras River flows in from Ballston, is pointed out the -battlefield on which the legend says that in the days of the warlike -Mohawks and fierce Mohicans they had a deadly combat, a thousand -warriors being engaged, when suddenly the Great Spirit sent a -miraculous white dove over the lake and battlefield, having such an -effect that the conflict ceased, their tomahawks fell useless at their -feet, and they smoked the calumet of peace. To the northward of -Saratoga is the extensive Woodlawn Park, the home of the late Judge -Henry Hilton. Ten miles northward is Mount McGregor, rising twelve -hundred feet and giving a magnificent view. It was here that General -Grant was taken in his last illness in 1885, and the cottage in which -he died is now the property of New York State and open to the public. - - -FORT EDWARD. - -The upper Hudson River has various falls providing good water-power, -which are largely availed of by paper-mills. The famous Fort Edward, -one of these noted paper-making towns, is but a short distance from -Saratoga. The railroad, leading from Saratoga and the south to Lake -Champlain and the north, here crosses the Hudson in a region of great -historic interest. This was the beginning of the portage in early -times between the river and the lake, the railway route following the -ancient Indian trail. The two waters are actually connected by the -Champlain Canal, and, curiously enough, this makes New England an -island, thus realizing the belief of the original explorers. Rev. -Robert Cushman, who preached the first sermon before the Massachusetts -Pilgrims at Plymouth in 1621, afterwards published it with an -introduction describing New England, in which he says: "So far as we -can find, it is an island, and near about the quantity of England, -being cut out from the mainland in America, as England is from the -main of Europe, by a great arm of the sea (Hudson's River) which -entereth in forty degrees and runneth up northwest and by west, and -goeth out either into the South Sea (Pacific Ocean) or else into the -Bay of Canada (Gulf of St. Lawrence)." There can still be seen at Fort -Edward traces of the ramparts of the old fort commanding the portage, -which was held and fought for in the eighteenth century. Originally a -noble domain around it of one thousand square miles was granted to -"our loving subject, the Reverend Godfridius Dellius, Minister of the -Gospell att our city of Albany," for "the annual rent of one Raccoon -Skin." The old gentleman, however, fell from grace, and the domain was -taken away from him and the New York Legislature suspended him from -the ministry for "deluding the Mohawk Indians, and illegal and -surreptitious obtaining of said grant." Then it went to his successor, -Rev. John Lydius, who lived in the quaint "Lydius House" in Albany. -The first fort was built soon after Lydius took possession, and in -1744 he established a fur-trading station. A military road was then -constructed from Saratoga to Whitehall on Lake Champlain, here -crossing the river, and it was commanded by three forts, one at this -crossing. The French destroyed the first fort, but Sir William Johnson -made a successful expedition into the Lake Champlain district in 1755, -and built here the strong post of Fort Edward. It was an important -work during the whole French and Indian War, lasting seven years, and -it was here that Lord Amherst organized the army which conquered -Canada in 1759. - -At Fort Edward first appeared as a British soldier one of the greatest -heroes of the Revolution, Israel Putnam. He had joined Sir William -Johnson's expedition as captain in a Connecticut regiment. He -performed here a daring exploit; the wooden barracks had caught fire -and the garrison vainly tried to subdue the flames, which approached -the powder magazine, and the danger was frightful. The water-gate was -opened, and the soldiers in line passed buckets of water up from the -river, when Putnam mounted the roof of the next building to the -magazine and threw the water on the fire. The commander, fearing for -his life, ordered him to desist, but he would not leave until he felt -the roof giving away. Then he got alongside the magazine, its timbers -already charred, and hurled bucket after bucket upon it, with final -success, the magazine being saved and an explosion prevented. The fire -was quenched, but the burnt and blistered hero was for a month a -sufferer in the hospital. Putnam had an adventure at the rapids a few -miles below Fort Edward, where he was out with a scouting party, and -being alongside the bank alone in his boat, was surprised by the -Indians. He could not cross the river above the rapids quickly enough -to elude their muskets, and the only escape was down the cataract. -Without hesitation, to the astonishment of the savages, his boat shot -directly down the foaming, whirling current, amid eddies and over -rugged rocks, and in a few moments he had escaped them, and was -floating on the tranquil river below. Believing him to be protected by -the Great Spirit, they dared not follow. Shortly afterwards, returning -from a scout on Lake Champlain, Putnam's party was surprised, and the -Indians captured and bound him to a tree. While thus situated, a -battle between his friends and the enemy raged for an hour around the -tree, he being under the hottest fire, but he was unscathed. The -Indians were beaten and had to retreat, but they took their captive -along, determined to have vengeance by roasting him alive. He was -again tied to a tree, and the fire had been kindled and was blazing -when the French commander, Molang, discovered and rescued him. Thus -was Putnam seasoned for his great work in the Revolution. - -The tragic murder of poor Jenny McCrea is also associated with Fort -Edward. This post in the Revolution was held in 1777 by an American -garrison, who retired before the advance of Burgoyne's army -southward. Jenny McCrea, the graceful and winning daughter of a -Presbyterian clergyman, who was betrothed to an officer in Burgoyne's -army, was visiting a widow lady at Fort Edward. In order to secure -Indian co-operation, Burgoyne had offered bounties for prisoners and -scalps, at the same time forbidding the killing of unarmed persons. He -found it difficult, however, to restrain the savages, who went about -in small bodies seeking captives, and one of these parties, prowling -around Fort Edward, entered the house where Jenny was staying and -carried off Jenny and her friend. An alarm was given, and troops sent -after them. The Indians had caught two horses, on one of which Jenny -was mounted, when the pursuers assailed them with a volley of bullets. -The Indians were unhurt, but the fair captive was mortally wounded and -fell, and, as tradition relates, expired at the foot of a huge pine -tree, which remained a memorial of the tragedy for nearly a century. -The savages thus lost their prisoner, but they quickly scalped her, -and taking her long black tresses, bathed in blood, to Burgoyne's -camp, they claimed reward. They were accused of her murder, but denied -it, and the horrid tale, magnified by repetition, caused the greatest -indignation. General Gates issued an address, charging Burgoyne with -hiring savages to scalp Europeans and their descendants, and -describing Jenny as having been "dressed to meet her promised -husband, but met her murderers." For this crime, it was added, -Burgoyne had "paid the price of blood." Poor Jenny's murder, with -Burgoyne's defeat, was employed most effectively by the opposition in -the British House of Commons, Chatham and Burke eloquently denouncing -the barbarity and merciless cruelties of his unfortunate campaign. Her -lover declined longer to stay in Burgoyne's army, but retired to -Canada, living there till old age. Jenny's remains are interred in the -beautiful cemetery overlooking the Hudson above Fort Edward, marked by -a monument recording her murder by a band of Indians at the age of -seventeen, and reciting that the memorial was erected "To record one -of the most thrilling incidents in the annals of the American -Revolution; to do justice to the fame of the gallant British officer -to whom she was affianced; and as a simple tribute to the memory of -the departed." This gentle maiden's sacrifice was of priceless value -in producing the revulsion of sentiment in Europe that had so much to -do with the final success of the Revolution. - - -BAKER'S FALLS AND GLEN'S FALLS. - -In coming to Fort Edward, the Hudson River sweeps around a grand curve -from the west towards the south, much of its course over cascades and -down rapids that are lined with mills. In a mile it descends eighty -feet, these rapids being known as Baker's Falls, and just above is the -village of Sandy Hill, having in its centre a pleasant elm-shaded -green. Here was enacted a tragedy, in some respects rivalling the tale -of Pocahontas. A party of sixteen, carrying supplies to Lake George, -was surprised and captured by Indians, and taken to the trunk of a -fallen tree on the spot where is now the village green, bound by -hickory withes and seated in a row. The savages then began at the end -of the row and tomahawked them one after another until only two -remained, Lieutenant McGinnis commanding the party and a young -teamster named Quackenboss. The tomahawk was brandished over the -former, when he threw himself backward and tried to break his bonds. A -dozen tomahawks instantly gleamed over him, and lying on his back he -defended himself with his heels, but he was soon hacked to death. -Quackenboss alone remained, and the deadly hatchet was raised over his -head, when suddenly the arm of the savage was seized by a squaw, who -cried, "You shall not kill him; he no fighter; he my dog." They spared -him to become a beast of burden. Staggering under a pack of plunder -almost too heavy to carry, they marched him towards Canada, the -Indians bearing his companions' scalps as trophies. They sailed along -Lake Champlain in canoes, and at the first Indian village at which -they halted he was compelled to "run the gauntlet." He ran between -rows of savages armed with heavy clubs, who beat him, an ordeal in -which he was severely injured. The Indian woman, however, took him to -her wigwam, bound up his wounds, and carefully nursed him until he -recovered. He was ultimately ransomed, obtaining employment in -Montreal. Finally returning to his home, he lived to a ripe old age, -telling of his adventures until he died in 1820. - -Following the curving Hudson River bank around to the westward, -another series of rapids and cascades is ascended to the thriving -manufacturing town of Glen's Falls. This magnificent cataract pours -through a wild ravine having over seventy feet descent, the water -flowing upon rough masses of black marble composing the rocky terraces -the stream has broken down. The Mohicans had significant names for -this famous cataract. One was Kayandorossa, meaning the "long deep -hole," applied to the ravine; and another, Che-pon-tuc, or "hard -climbing; a difficult place to get around." Along the north side of -the ravine, upon a beautiful plain, is the manufacturing settlement of -about ten thousand people, who use the admirable water-power and get -the black marble out of adjacent quarries. Vast numbers of logs coming -down the Hudson are gathered in a boom above the town, and sawmills -cut them into lumber. Paper-mills cluster about the falls, and -marble-saws work up the black rocks. In the centre of the ravine, -above the falls, a cavern is hewn where a rocky islet makes a rude -abutment for a bridge pier. Father Jogues, who came over from Lake -George in 1645, was the first white man who saw this attractive -region, and he wrote that the Indians then called the Hudson -"Oi-o-gue" or "the beautiful river," while the Hollanders, settled on -it farther down, had named it the "river Van Maurice." When the Dutch -made their first explorations they found that the lower Mohawk and the -upper valley of the Hudson, with the country northward extending into -the Adirondacks, was the home of the Mohicans, an Algonquin tribe, and -always at war with the Mohawks, their western neighbors higher up that -valley. It was thought probable that with a view of securing -assistance in this inveterate feud, the Mohicans received the Dutch -settlers so amicably and gave them lands. - -James Fenimore Cooper located around Glen's Falls the scene of his -novel, the _Last of the Mohicans_, in which _Hawkeye_, looking out of -the cavern in the ravine, gives his admirable description of the -cataract as it appeared in the French and Indian War, before the -millwright had come along to disturb the scenery. "Ay," he said, -"there are the falls on two sides of us, and the river above and -below. If you had daylight it would be worth the trouble to step up on -the height of this rock and look at the perversity of the water. It -falls by no rule at all; sometimes it leaps, sometimes it tumbles; -there it skips; here it shoots; in one place 'tis as white as snow, -and in another 'tis as green as grass; hereabouts it pitches into deep -hollows that rumble and quake the 'arth, and thereaway it ripples and -sings like a brook, fashioning whirlpools and gullies in the old stone -as if 'twere no harder than trodden clay. The whole design of the -river seems disconnected. First it runs smoothly as if meaning to go -down the descent as things were ordered; then it angles about and -faces the shores; nor are there places wanting where it looks -backward, as if unwilling to leave the wilderness to mingle with the -salt!" - - -SOURCES OF THE HUDSON. - -The noble Hudson River, which we have ascended to Glen's Falls, flows -out of the great Adirondack wilderness of Northern New York, the -headwaters draining its extensive southern declivity. Among these -virgin Adirondack woods and mountains, near the Long Lake, is the -remote source of the western branch of the Hudson, the "Hendrick -Spring." Surrounded by forest and swamp, this cool and shallow pool, -about five feet in diameter, fringed by delicate ferns, and overhung -with vines and shrubbery, is the beginning of the great river, and -named in honor of its discoverer and first explorer: - - "Far up in the dim mountain glade, - Wrapped in the myst'ry of its shade, - On a cold rock, a dewdrop fell, - And slumbered in its stony shell, - Till brewed within its rocky bed, - There trickled out a silver thread, - A little, shy, lost waterling, - That marks the cradled mountain spring." - -The Hendrick Spring is within a half-mile of Long Lake and upon the -same summit, the latter discharging its waters northward into the St. -Lawrence. The little stream from this source gathers force, and flows -through a chain of brooks and ponds to the lovely Catlin Lake. High -peaks environ them, and their swelling waters make much of the river -on coming to the confluence with the northern branch of the Hudson at -the outlet of Harris Lake. Here there blooms, all about, the splendid -cardinal plant, its showy flower glowing like a flame. - -The most elevated fountain head of the Hudson is upon the northern -branch. Within the inmost recesses of the mountain wilderness, in a -ravine between two of the highest peaks, the river has its spring -nearest the sky, known as "The Tear of the Clouds," a lofty pool, -adjacent to one of the noted Adirondack portages, the Indian Pass, at -about forty-three hundred feet elevation above the sea. From this pool -the water flows out through the Feldspar Brook into the Opalescent -River, which does not go far before it tumbles down the picturesque -cascade of the Hanging Spear, leaping fifty feet into a narrow abyss -between perpendicular walls, and emerging among a mass of huge -boulders. All these rocks, like the greater part of the Aganus-chion, -or Black Mountains, as the Indians often called the Adirondacks, are -composed largely of the labradorite or opalescent feldspar, which -fills the stream-bed with beautiful pebbles of blue or green or gold, -many of them having all the colors. Thus glittering with the splendors -of its rich coloring under the sunlight, the Opalescent River falls -into Sandford Lake. A visitor to the Indian Pass says the explorers -entered the rocky gorge between the steep slopes of Mount McIntyre and -the cliffs of Wallface Mountain to the westward. Clambering high above -the bottom of the canyon, they could see the famous Indian Pass -between these mountains in all its wild grandeur. Before them rose a -perpendicular cliff nearly twelve hundred feet from base to summit, -its face being apparently as raw as if only just cleft. Above sloped -Mount McIntyre, still more lofty than the cliff of Wallface, and in -the gorge between lay piles of rocks, grand in dimensions and awful in -aspect, as if hurled there by some terrible convulsion. Through these -came the little stream going to the Hudson, bubbling along from its -source close by a fountain of the Ausable. In spring freshets their -waters commingle, part finding their way to the ocean at New York and -part at Newfoundland. - -Still another spring of clear cold water is a source of the Hudson, -sending down the mountain side a vigorous rivulet, falling into the -Opalescent. This fountain bubbles from a mass of loose rocks, some -weighing a thousand tons apiece, about a hundred feet from the summit -of the noble Mount Marcy, which the Indians called Tahawus, the -"Sky-piercer." From these sources among the Adirondacks flows the -most important river of New York, uniting the waters of myriads of -lakes and springs to form the noble stream which is picturesque and -attractive throughout the whole of its course of three hundred miles -to the sea. The main branches of the upper Hudson unite almost under -the shadow of Tahawus, and flowing a tortuous course, it receives the -outlet of Schroon Lake, the largest in the Adirondacks, covering about -twenty square miles, the junction-point being but a short distance -west of Lake George. Then flowing southward and turning eastward, it -emerges from the mountain wilderness, and in about a hundred miles -reaches its great cataract at Glen's Falls. Sweeping around the grand -bend below, and tumbling down Baker's Falls, past Fort Edward and the -rapids of Fort Miller, it receives the largest tributary from the -eastward, the Battenkill, a rapid shallow stream flowing from the -Green Mountains of Vermont. Thence its course is southward, every mile -from the wilderness to the sea being replete with historic and scenic -attractions: - - "Queen of all lovely rivers, lustrous queen - Of flowing waters in our sweet new lands, - Rippling through sunlight to the ocean sands, - Within a smiling valley, and between - Romantic shores of silvery summer green; - Memorial of wild days and savage bands, - Singing the patient deeds of patriot hands, - Crooning of golden glorious years foreseen." - - - - - -End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of America, Volume III (of 6), by Joel Cook - -*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK AMERICA, VOLUME III (OF 6) *** - -***** This file should be named 41776-8.txt or 41776-8.zip ***** -This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: - http://www.gutenberg.org/4/1/7/7/41776/ - -Produced by Melissa McDaniel and the Online Distributed -Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This file was -produced from images generously made available by The -Internet Archive) - - -Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions -will be renamed. - -Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no -one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation -(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without -permission and without paying copyright royalties. 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