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diff --git a/41742.txt b/41742.txt deleted file mode 100644 index 934e6a3..0000000 --- a/41742.txt +++ /dev/null @@ -1,5900 +0,0 @@ -The Project Gutenberg EBook of America, Volume II (of 6), by Joel Cook - -This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with -almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or -re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included -with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org - - -Title: America, Volume II (of 6) - -Author: Joel Cook - -Release Date: December 31, 2012 [EBook #41742] - -Language: English - -Character set encoding: ASCII - -*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK AMERICA, VOLUME II (OF 6) *** - - - - -Produced by Melissa McDaniel and the Online Distributed -Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This file was -produced from images generously made available by The -Internet Archive) - - - - - - - -Transcriber's Note: - - Inconsistent hyphenation and spelling in the original document have - been preserved. Obvious typographical errors have been corrected. - - Italic text is denoted by _underscores_. - - The page numbers of this Volume start with 275 (continuing the - numbering from Volume 1 of this work). - - On page 282 guerillas should possibly be guerrillas. - On page 293 vigilants should possibly be vigilantes. - - - - - [Illustration] - - - - - _EDITION ARTISTIQUE_ - - The World's Famous - Places and Peoples - - AMERICA - - BY - JOEL COOK - - In Six Volumes - Volume II. - - MERRILL AND BAKER - New York London - - - - -THIS EDITION ARTISTIQUE OF THE WORLD'S FAMOUS PLACES AND PEOPLES IS -LIMITED TO ONE THOUSAND NUMBERED AND REGISTERED COPIES, OF WHICH THIS -COPY IS NO. 205 - -Copyright, Henry T. Coates & Co., 1900 - - - - -LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS - -VOLUME II - - - PAGE - - MAMMOTH HOT SPRINGS, YELLOWSTONE _Frontispiece_ - - THE SUSQUEHANNA WEST OF FALMOUTH 284 - - THE CONEMAUGH NEAR FLORENCE 312 - - ON THE ASHLEY, NEAR CHARLESTON, S. C. 352 - - ON THE OCKLAWAHA 382 - - LINCOLN MONUMENT, LINCOLN PARK, CHICAGO 432 - - - - -CROSSING THE ALLEGHENIES. - - - - -IV. - -CROSSING THE ALLEGHENIES. - - The Old Pike -- The National Road -- Early Routes Across the - Mountains -- Old Lancaster Road -- Columbia Railroad -- The - Pennsylvania Route -- Haverford College -- Villa Nova -- Bryn - Mawr College -- Paoli -- General Wayne -- The Chester Valley -- - Pequea Valley -- The Conestogas -- Lancaster -- Franklin and - Marshall College -- James Buchanan -- Thaddeus Stevens -- - Conewago Hills -- Susquehanna River -- Columbia -- The - Underground Railroad -- Middletown -- Lochiel -- Simon Cameron - -- The Clan Cameron -- Harrisburg -- Charles Dickens and the - Camel's Back Bridge -- John Harris -- Lincoln's Midnight Ride - -- Cumberland Valley -- Carlisle -- Indian School -- Dickinson - College -- The Whisky Insurrection -- Tom the Tinker -- Lebanon - Valley -- Cornwall Ore Banks -- Otsego Lake -- Cooperstown -- - James Fenimore Cooper -- Richfield Springs -- Cherry Valley -- - Sharon Springs -- Howe's Cave -- Binghamton -- Northumberland - -- Williamsport -- Sunbury -- Fort Augusta -- The Dauphin Gap - -- Duncannon -- Duncan's Island -- Juniata River -- Tuscarora - Gap -- The Grasshopper War -- Mifflin -- Lewistown Narrows -- - Kishicoquillas Valley -- Logan -- Jack's Narrows -- Huntingdon - -- The Standing Stone -- Bedford -- Morrison's Cove -- The - Sinking Spring -- Brainerd, the Missionary -- Tyrone -- - Bellefonte -- Altoona -- Hollidaysburg -- The Portage Railroad - -- Blair's Gap -- The Horse Shoe -- Kittanning Point -- Thomas - Blair and Michael Maguire -- Loretto -- Prince Gallitzin -- - Ebensburg -- Cresson Springs -- The Conemaugh River -- South - Fork -- Johnstown -- The Great Flood -- Laurel Ridge -- - Packsaddle Narrows -- Chestnut Ridge -- Kiskiminetas River -- - Loyalhanna Creek -- Fort Ligonier -- Great Bear Cave -- - Hannastown -- General Arthur St. Clair -- Greensburg -- - Braddock's Defeat -- Pittsburg, the Iron City -- Monongahela - River -- Allegheny River -- Ohio River -- Fort Duquesne -- - Fort Pitt -- View from Mount Washington -- Pittsburg Buildings - -- Great Factories -- Andrew Carnegie -- George Westinghouse, - Jr. -- Allegheny Park and Monument -- Coal and Coke -- Davis - Island Dam -- Youghiogheny River -- Connellsville -- Natural - Gas -- Murrysville -- Petroleum -- Canonsburg -- Washington -- - Petroleum Development -- Kittanning -- Modoc Oil District -- - Fort Venango -- Oil City -- Pithole City -- Oil Creek -- - Titusville -- Corry -- Decadence of Oil-Fields. - - -THE OLD PIKE. - -The American aspiration has always been to go westward. In the early -history of the Republic the Government gave great attention to the -means of reaching the Western frontier, then cut off by what was -regarded as the almost insurmountable barrier of the Alleghenies. -General Washington was the first to project a chain of internal -improvements across the mountains, by the route of the Potomac to -Cumberland, then a Maryland frontier fort, and thence by roads to the -headwaters of the Ohio. The initial enactment was procured by him from -the Virginia Legislature in 1774, for improving the navigation of the -Potomac; but the Revolutionary War interfered, and he renewed the -movement afterwards in 1784, resulting in the charter of the -Chesapeake and Ohio Canal, of which Washington was the first -President. Little was done at that early period, however, in building -the canal, but the Government constructed the famous "National Road," -the first highway over the Allegheny Mountains, from Cumberland in -Maryland, mainly through Southwestern Pennsylvania, to Wheeling on -the Ohio. This noted highway was finished and used throughout in 1818, -and, until the railways crossed the mountains, it was the great route -of travel to the West. It was familiarly known as the "Old Pike," and -Thomas B. Searight has entertainingly recorded its pleasant memories, -for it has now become mainly a relic of the past: - - "We hear no more of the clanging hoof, - And the stage-coach, rattling by; - For the steam king rules the travelled world, - And the Old Pike's left to die." - -He tells of the long lines of Conestoga wagons, each drawn by six -heavy horses, their broad wheels, canvas-covered tops and huge cargoes -of goods; of the swaying, rushing mail passenger coach, the -fleet-footed pony express; the flocks of sheep and herds of cattle, -the droves of horses and mules sent East from the "blue-grass" farms -of Kentucky; and occasionally of a long line of men and women, tied -two and two to a rope, driven by a slave-master from the South, to be -sold in the newer region of the Southwest. He describes how the famous -driver, Sam Sibley, brings up his grand coach at the hotel in -Uniontown with the great Henry Clay as chief passenger, and then after -dinner whirls away with a rush, but unfortunately, dashing over a pile -of stone in the road, the coach upsets. Out crawls the driver with a -broken nose, and a crowd hastens to rescue Mr. Clay from the upturned -coach. He is unhurt, and brushing the dust from his clothes says: -"This is mixing the Clay of Kentucky with the limestone of -Pennsylvania." Many are the tales of the famous road. One veteran -teamster relates his experience of a night at the tavern on the -mountain side--thirty six-horse teams were in the wagon-yard, one -hundred mules in an adjoining lot, a thousand hogs in another, as many -fat cattle from the West in a field, and the tavern crowded with -teamsters and drovers--the grunts of the hogs, the braying of the -mules, the bellowing of the cattle and the crunching and stamping of -the horses, "made music beyond a dream." In 1846 the message arrived -at Cumberland at two o'clock in the morning that war was declared -against Mexico, and a noted driver took the news over the mountains, -past a hundred taverns and a score of villages, one hundred and -thirty-one miles to Wheeling, in twelve hours. Over this famous road -the Indian chief Black Hawk was brought, but the harness broke, the -team ran away and the coach was smashed. Black Hawk crept out of the -wreck, stood up surprised, and, wiping a drop of blood from his brow, -earnestly muttered, "Ugh! Ugh! Ugh!" Barnum brought Jenny Lind over -this road from Wheeling, paying $17.25 fare apiece to Baltimore. -Lafayette came along it in 1825, the population all turning out to -cheer him. Andrew Jackson came over it four years later to be -inaugurated the first Western President, and subsequently also came -Presidents Harrison, Polk and Taylor. What was thought of the "Old -Pike" in its day of active service was well expressed at a reception -to John Quincy Adams. Returning from the West, he arrived at Uniontown -in May, 1837, and was warmly welcomed. Hon. Hugh Campbell, who made -the reception address, said to the ex-President: "We stand here, sir, -upon the Cumberland Road, which has broken down the great wall of the -Appalachian Mountains. This road, we trust, constitutes an -indissoluble chain of Union, connecting forever, as one, the East and -the West." - -In the early part of the nineteenth century, Lancaster in Pennsylvania -was the largest inland city of the United States. It is sixty-nine -miles from Philadelphia, and the "old Lancaster Road," the finest -highway of that period, was constructed to connect them. This began -the Pennsylvania route across the Alleghenies to the West, which -afterwards became the most travelled. In 1834 the Pennsylvania -Government opened its State work, the Columbia Railroad between the -Delaware and the Susquehanna. In 1836 there were four daily lines of -stages running in connection with this State railroad between -Philadelphia and Pittsburg, making the journey in sixty hours. -Gradually afterwards the Pennsylvania Railroad was extended across the -mountains, and the Baltimore and Ohio Railroad was completed to -Wheeling, and they then took away the business from the "Old Pike" -and all the other wagon or canal routes to the Ohio River. - - -CHESTER AND LANCASTER VALLEYS. - -Let us go westward across the Alleghenies by the Pennsylvania route. -East of the mountains it traverses a rich agricultural region, -limestone valleys, intersected by running streams and enclosed between -parallel ridges of hills, stretching, like the mountain ranges, across -the country from northeast to southwest. It is a land of prolific -farms and dairies, and for miles beyond Philadelphia the line is -adjoined by attractive villages and many beautiful suburban villas. -Three noted institutions of learning are passed--Haverford College, -the great Quaker College, standing in an extensive wooded park; the -Roman Catholic Augustinian College at Villa Nova, with its -cross-surmounted dome and twin church spires; and the Bryn Mawr -College for women, one of the most famous in the United States. This -is a region first settled by Welsh Quakers, and the name Bryn Mawr is -Welsh for the "great hill." It is a wealthy and extensive settlement, -and its College has spacious buildings and over three hundred -students. At the Commencements they all join in singing their -impressive College hymn: - - "Thou Gracious Inspiration, our guiding star, - Mistress and Mother, all hail Bryn Mawr, - Goddess of wisdom, thy torch divine - Doth beacon thy votaries to thy shrine, - And we, thy daughters, would thy vestals be, - Thy torch to consecrate eternally." - -A few miles beyond is Paoli, preserving in its name the memory of the -Corsican patriot Paoli, and the birthplace of the Revolutionary -General "Mad Anthony" Wayne. Here the British defeated the American -patriots in September, 1777. It stands on the verge of one of the -garden spots of Pennsylvania, the Chester Valley, a charming region of -broad and smiling acres, bounded on the northwest by the Welsh -Mountain and Mine Hill, and a veritable land of plenty. The Brandywine -and Valley Creeks water it, flowing out respectively to the Delaware -and the Schuylkill. Beyond the long ridge of Mine Hill is Lancaster -County, another land of rich farms, with many miles of grain and -tobacco fields. Mine Hill is the watershed between the Delaware and -the Susquehanna, the fertile Pequea Valley being at its western base. -This is a great wheat country, and from here was sent the first -American grain across the Atlantic to feed Europe, the Lancaster -County wheat, in the days before the railroads brought it from the -West, ruling prices for the American markets. It was hauled out in the -ponderous Conestoga wagons, named after the Indian tribe which -formerly ruled this region--their name signifying "the great magic -land." They were a quarrelsome people, fighting all the neighboring -tribes, and becoming deadly foes of the whites. Repeated wars -decimated them, until in 1763 their last remnant, being hunted almost -to death, took refuge in the ancient jail at Lancaster, and were -cruelly massacred by the guerillas called the "Paxton Boys." - -In the midst of the wheat lands and bordering the broad Conestoga -Creek, flowing down to the Susquehanna at Safe Harbor, is the city of -Lancaster, its red sandstone castellated jail being a conspicuous -object in the view. This city was originally called Hickory Town, but -in the eighteenth century its loyal people christened it Lancaster, -and named the chief streets, intersecting at the Central Market -Square, King and Queen Streets, with Duke Street parallel to the -latter. Prior to 1812 it was the capital of Pennsylvania. Lancaster is -an attractive and comfortable old city of thirty-five thousand -population, with many mills and factories and large tobacco houses. It -has a splendid Soldiers' Monument in the Central Square, with finely -sculptured guards, representing each branch of the service, watching -at the base of the magnificent shaft. Upon the outskirts are the -ornate buildings of Franklin and Marshall College, a foundation of the -German Reformed Church, and it also has a Theological Seminary. The -charm of Lancaster, however, is Woodward Hill Cemetery, on a bold -bluff, washed by the Conestoga Creek, which forms a graceful circle -around its base. Upon the surface and sides of the bluff the graves -are terraced. Here is the tomb of James Buchanan, the only President -sent from Pennsylvania, who died in 1868, at his home of Wheatland on -the outskirts of the town. Another noted citizen of Lancaster was -Thaddeus Stevens, who long represented it in Congress, and was the -Republican leader in the House of Representatives during the Civil -War, and afterwards until his death in 1868. He was the great champion -of the emancipation of the negro race, and refused to be buried in the -cemetery because negroes were excluded. Upon the grave which he -selected in Lancaster are these words: "I repose in this quiet and -secluded spot, not from any natural preference for solitude, but -finding other cemeteries limited by charter rules as to race. I have -chosen it that I might be enabled to illustrate in death the principle -which I have advocated through a long life--equality of man before -his Creator." When Lancaster was the chief town of the Colonial -frontier in 1753, it was the place where Braddock's unfortunate -expedition against Fort Duquesne at Pittsburg was organized and -equipped, the work being mainly directed by Benjamin Franklin. Robert -Fulton was born in Lancaster County, and he grew up and was educated -at Lancaster, going afterwards to Philadelphia. - - - [Illustration: _The Susquehanna West of Falmouth_] - -THE SUSQUEHANNA RIVER. - -The line westward from Lancaster crosses one long ridge-like hill -after another stretching broadly over the country, and finally comes -to the outlying ridge of the Allegheny range, the South Mountain, -beyond which is the great Appalachian Valley. One railroad route -boldly crosses this mountain through the depressions in the Conewago -hills, where the picturesque Conewago Creek, the Indian "long reach," -flows down its beautiful gorge to the Susquehanna, and this railroad -finally comes out on that river at Middletown below Harrisburg; the -other route follows a more easy gradient westward ten miles to -Columbia, and this is used by the heavier freight trains. Coming -towards it over the hills, the wide Susquehanna lies low in its broad -valley, enclosed by the distant ridge of the Kittatinny bounding -Cumberland County beyond the river. As it is approached, the thought -is uppermost that this is one of the noblest, and yet among the -meanest rivers in the country. Rising in Otsego Lake in New York, it -flows over four hundred miles down to Chesapeake Bay, receives large -tributaries, its West Branch being two hundred miles long, rends all -the Allegheny Mountain chains, and takes a great part of the drainage -of that region in New York and Pennsylvania, passes through grand -valleys, noble gorges and most magnificent scenery, and yet it is so -thickly sown with islands, rocks and sand-bars, rapids and shallows, -as to defy all attempts to make it satisfactorily navigable excepting -by lumber rafts, logs and a few canal boats. Thus the Indians -significantly gave its name meaning the island-strewn, broad -and shallow river, and it is little more than a gigantic drain for -Central Pennsylvania. - -On its bank is Columbia, a town of busy iron and steel manufacture, as -the whole range of towns are for miles up to and beyond Harrisburg. At -Columbia first appeared, about 1804, that mysterious agency known as -the "Underground Railroad," whereby fugitive slaves were secretly -passed from one "station" to another from "Mason and Dixon's Line" to -Canada, mainly through the aid and active exertions of philanthropic -Quakers. All through Chester and Lancaster Counties and northward were -laid the routes of this peculiar line, whose ramifications became more -and more extensive as time passed, making the Fugitive Slave Law -almost a nullity during the decade before the Civil War. There were -hundreds of good people engaged in facilitating the unfortunate -travellers who fled for freedom, and many have been the escapades with -the slave-hunters, whose traffic long ago happily ended. At Middletown -the Swatara River flows in from the hills of Lebanon County, there -being all along the Susquehanna a prodigious development of the steel -industry as well as rich farms on the fertile bottom lands. Here is -the historic estate of Lochiel, which was the home of Simon Cameron, -who for many years ruled the political destinies of Pennsylvania. He -was born in 1799 at Maytown, near Marietta, on the Susquehanna, a few -miles above Columbia, in humble circumstances, and came as a poor -printer's boy to Harrisburg, rose to wealth and power, and when he was -full of years and honors placed the mantle of the United States -Senatorship upon his son. Their "Clan Cameron" which ruled -Pennsylvania for two generations has been regarded as the best managed -political "machine" in the Union, having in its ranks and among its -allies not only politicians, but bankers, railway managers, merchants, -manufacturers and capitalists, and men in every walk of life, -ramifying throughout the Keystone State. - -Harrisburg, the capital of Pennsylvania, stands upon the sloping -eastern bank of the river in the grandest scenery. Just above, the -Susquehanna breaks through the Kittatinny at the Dauphin Gap, giving a -superb display of the rending asunder of the towering mountain chain. -Opposite are the forest-clad hills of York and Cumberland bordering -the fertile Cumberland Valley spreading off to the southwest, while -behind the city this great Appalachian Valley continues between its -enclosing ridges as the Lebanon Valley northeast to the Schuylkill -River at Reading. Market Street is the chief Harrisburg highway, and -the Pennsylvania Railroad is the back border of the town. The State -Capitol, set on a hill, was burnt, and is being rebuilt. A pleasant -park encloses the site, and from the front a wide street leads down to -the river, making a pretty view, with a Soldiers' Monument in the -centre, which is an enlarged reproduction of Cleopatra's Needle. The -Front Street of the city, along the river bank, is the popular -promenade, and is adorned with the Executive Mansion and other fine -residences, which have a grand outlook across the broad expanse of -river and islands. Bridges cross over, among them the old "camel's -back," a mile long, and having its shelving stone ice-breakers jutting -up stream. This is the old wooden covered bridge that Charles Dickens -wrote about in his _American Notes_. On his first American visit he -came into Harrisburg from York County on a stage-coach through this -bridge, and he wrote: "We crossed the river by a wooden bridge, roofed -and covered on all sides, and nearly a mile in length. It was -profoundly dark, perplexed with great beams, crossing and re-crossing -it at every possible angle, and through the broad chinks and crevices -in the floor the river gleamed far down below, like a legion of eyes. -We had no lamps, and as the horses stumbled and floundered through -this place towards the distant speck of dying light, it seemed -interminable. I really could not persuade myself at first as we -rumbled heavily on, filling the bridge with hollow noises--and I held -down my head to save it from the rafters--but that I was in a painful -dream, and that this could not be reality." The old bridge is much the -same to-day as when Dickens crossed it. - -Harrisburg was named for John Harris, who established a ferry here, -and alongside the river bank is the little "Harris Park" which -contains his grave. The stump of the tree at the foot of which he was -buried is carefully preserved. A drunken band of Conestoga Indians -came this way in 1718, and, capturing the faithful ferryman, tied him -to the tree to be tortured and burnt, when the timely interposition of -some Indians from the opposite shore, who knew him and were friendly, -saved him. His son succeeded him and ran the ferry, and an enclosure -in the park preserves this spot of historic memory. - - -LINCOLN'S MIDNIGHT RIDE. - -It was from Harrisburg that Lincoln took the famous secret midnight -ride, "in long cloak and Scotch cap," which enabled him to escape -attack and possible assassination when going to be inaugurated -President in 1861. Lincoln arrived in Philadelphia on his way to -Washington February 21st, and had arranged to visit Harrisburg next -day, address the Pennsylvania Legislature, and then proceed to -Washington by way of Baltimore. In Philadelphia General Scott and -Senator Seward informed him that he could not pass through Baltimore -at the time announced without great peril, and detectives who had -carefully examined the situation declared his life in danger. Lincoln, -however, could not believe that anyone would try to assassinate him -and made light of the matter. On the morning of February 22d he -raised a flag on Independence Hall in Philadelphia, and then went by -railway to Harrisburg. There his friends again urged him to abandon -his plan and avoid Baltimore. He visited the Legislature, and -afterwards, at his hotel, met the Governor, several prominent people -being present, among them Colonel Thomas A. Scott, then Vice-President -of the Pennsylvania Railroad. Again the subject was discussed, and he -was urged to avoid the danger threatening next day, being reminded -that the railway passenger coaches were drawn through the Baltimore -streets by horses, thus increasing the chances of doing him harm. He -heard them patiently and answered, "What would the nation think of its -President stealing into the Capital like a thief in the night?" But -they only the more strenuously insisted, and finally he yielded, -consenting to do whatever they thought best. Colonel Scott undertook -the task, and during the early evening quietly arranged a special -train to take Lincoln to Philadelphia, where he would get aboard the -regular night express and be in Washington by daylight. Colonel Ward -H. Lamon, a personal friend, was selected to attend Lincoln. As the -party left the hotel a large crowd cheered them, and the Governor, -Andrew G. Curtin, the better to conceal the intention, called out in a -loud voice, "Drive us to the Executive Mansion." This was done, and -when they had got away from the crowd the carriage was taken by a -roundabout route to the station. Lincoln and Lamon were not noticed -by the few people there, and quietly entering the car, left for -Philadelphia. As soon as they had started Scott cut every telegraph -wire leading out of Harrisburg, so nothing could be transmitted -excepting under his control. Lincoln got to Philadelphia without -trouble, was put aboard the express at midnight, and then at dawn -Scott reunited his wires and called up Washington, a group of anxious -men around him. Soon the message came back, slowly ticked out from the -instrument, "Plums delivered nuts safely." Scott knew what it meant; -he jumped to his feet, threw up his hat and shouted, "Lincoln's in -Washington." The Baltimore plotters were thus foiled, as the new -President passed quietly through that city before daylight, and -several hours earlier than they had expected him. - - -THE CUMBERLAND AND LEBANON VALLEYS. - -Harrisburg stands in the centre of the great Appalachian Valley, where -it is bisected by the broad Susquehanna. To the southwest it stretches -away to the Potomac as the Cumberland Valley, and to the northeast it -spreads across to the Schuylkill as the fertile Lebanon Valley. The -high mountain wall of the Kittatinny bounds it on the northwest, with -all the rivers, as heretofore described, breaking out through various -"gaps." In the Colonial days, when Indian forays were frequent, the -Province of Pennsylvania defended the entrances to this fertile -valley by a chain of frontier forts located at these gaps, with -attendant block-houses, each post garrisoned by from twenty to eighty -Provincial soldiers, as its importance demanded. Benjamin Franklin, -who was then commissioned as a Colonel, was prominent in the advocacy -of these frontier defences, and he personally organized the settlers -and arranged the garrisons. Fort Hyndshaw began the chain on the -Delaware, there were other forts on the Lehigh and Schuylkill, and -Fort Henry located on the Swatara, now Lebanon, while just above -Harrisburg was Fort Hunter, commanding the passage of the Susquehanna -through the Dauphin Gap. - -Over in the Cumberland Valley, about nineteen miles from Harrisburg, -is Carlisle, a town of some nine thousand people, in a rich country, -and the chief settlement of that valley. Here is located in what were -formerly the army barracks, coming down from the time when this was a -frontier post, the Government Indian Training School, where about -eight hundred Indian boys and girls are instructed, being brought from -the far western tribes to be taught the arts and methods of -civilization. These Indian children are numerous in the streets and on -the railway trains, with their straight hair, round swarthy faces and -high cheek bones, and show the surprising influence of a civilizing -education in humanizing their features and modifying their nomadic -traits. They have quite a noted military organization and band at the -School. Dickinson College, a foundation of the Methodist Church, is at -Carlisle, having begun its work in 1783, when it was named after John -Dickinson, then the President of Pennsylvania, who took great interest -in it and made valuable gifts. Among its graduates were President -James Buchanan and Chief Justice Roger B. Taney. Carlisle was -President Washington's headquarters in 1794, during the "Whisky -Insurrection" in Western Pennsylvania. After the United States -Government got fairly started, the Congress in 1791 imposed a tax of -seven cents per gallon on whisky. This made a great disturbance among -the frontier settlers of Pennsylvania, who were largely Scotch-Irish, -the population west of the Kittatinny to the Ohio River being then -estimated at seventy thousand. They had no market for their grain, but -they made it into whisky, which found ready sale. A horse could carry -two kegs of eight gallons each on the bridle paths across the -mountains, and it was worth a dollar a gallon in the east. Returning, -the horseback load was usually iron worth sixteen cents a pound, or -salt at five dollars a bushel. Every farmer had a still, and the -whisky thus became practically the money of the people on account of -its purchasing value. Opposition to the tax began in riots. A crowd of -"Whisky boys" from Bedford came into Carlisle and burnt the Chief -Justice in effigy, setting up a liberty pole with the words "Liberty -and No Excise on Whisky." President Washington called for troops to -enforce the law, and this angered them. One John Holcroft, a ready -writer, appeared, and wrote sharp articles against the law and the -army, over the signature of "Tom the Tinker." These were printed in -handbills, and the historian says "half the trees in Western -Pennsylvania were whitened with Tom the Tinker's notices." Officials -sent to collect the tax were roughly treated, farmers who paid it were -beaten by masked men, and one man who rented his house to a tax -collector was captured at midnight by a crowd of disguised vigilants, -who carried him into the woods, sheared his hair, tarred, feathered -and tied him to a tree. - -Soon there were gathered at Carlisle an army of thirteen thousand men -from Pennsylvania, New Jersey, Maryland and Virginia, under Governor -Henry Lee of Virginia. President Washington and Secretary of the -Treasury Alexander Hamilton came to Carlisle, and accompanied the -troops, in October, 1794, on their march across the mountains to -Bedford. The Governors of New Jersey and Pennsylvania led the troops -of their respective States, and in the army were many Revolutionary -veterans. As they advanced they found Tom the Tinker's notices on the -trees, of which the following is a specimen: - -"Brethren, you must not think to frighten us with fine arranged bits -of infantry, cavalry and artillery, composed of your watermelon armies -taken from the Jersey shores. They would cut a much better figure in -warring with crabs and oysters about the banks of the Delaware. It is -a common thing for Indians to fight your best armies in the proportion -of one to five; therefore we would not hesitate to attack this army at -the rate of one to ten." - -The soldiers riddled these notices with bullets and pressed on, -hunting for "Tom Tinker's men," as the insurgents came to be called. -But they never seemed able to find them. All the people seen told how -they were forced by threats, and when asked where the persons were who -threatened them, replied, "Oh, they have run off." The army finally -reached Pittsburg, the people submitted to the law and paid the tax, -the insurrection was suppressed, and the army returned and was -disbanded. The whisky excise was peacefully collected afterwards until -the tax was repealed. - -In the Lebanon Valley east of Harrisburg are important iron furnaces, -and here are the "Cornwall Ore Banks," which is one of the greatest -iron-ore deposits in the world--less rich than some others, possibly, -but having a practically exhaustless supply almost alongside these -furnaces. There are three hills of solid iron ore, one of them having -been worked long before the Revolution, the original furnace, still -existing, dating from 1742. This great Cornwall iron mine was bought -in 1737 for $675, including a large tract of land. A half-century -later $42,500 was paid for a one-sixth interest, and to-day a -one-forty-eighth interest is estimated worth upwards of $500,000. -These ores have some sulphur in them, and are therefore baked in ovens -to remove it. They yield about 50 per cent. of iron. A geologist some -time ago reported upon the ore banks that there were thirty millions -of tons of ore in sight above the water-level, being over three times -the amount taken out since the workings began in the eighteenth -century. The deposits extend to a depth of several hundred feet under -the surface, thus indefinitely multiplying the prospective yield. - - -THE SUSQUEHANNA HEADWATERS. - -Otsego Lake, the source of the Susquehanna River, is one of the -prettiest lakes in New York State, and is at an elevation of eleven -hundred feet above tide. It is nine miles long and about a mile wide, -the Susquehanna issuing from its southern end at Cooperstown, a hamlet -of two thousand people, beautifully situated amid the high rolling -hills surrounding the lake. The name of the lake comes from the -"Ote-sa-ga rock" at the outlet, a small, round-topped, beehive-shaped -boulder a few rods from the shore, just where the lake condenses into -the river. This was the Indian Council rock, to which they came to -hold meetings and make treaties, and it was well-known among the -Iroquois and the Lenni Lenapes. James Fenimore Cooper, the novelist, -who has immortalized all this region, called the lake the -"Glimmerglass." His father, Judge William Cooper, founded the village -of Cooperstown in 1786, afterwards bringing his infant son from -Burlington, New Jersey, where he was born in 1789. Here the great -American novelist lived until his death in 1851, his grave, under a -plain horizontal slab, being in the little churchyard of Christ -Episcopal Church. There is a monument to him in Lakewood Cemetery, -about a mile distant, surmounted by a statue of his legendary hunter -"Leatherstocking," who has been described as "a man who had the -simplicity of a woodsman, the heroism of a savage, the faith of a -Christian, and the feeling of a poet." The old Cooper mansion, his -home, Otsego Hall, was burnt in 1854, and its site is marked by a rock -in the middle of the road, surrounded by a railing. "Hannah's Hill," -named after his daughter, and commanding a magnificent view, which he -always described with rapture, is on the western shore of the lake, -just out of town. The charm of Cooper's genius and the magic of his -description have given Otsego Lake a world-wide fame. In one place he -described it as "a broad sheet of water, so placid and limpid that it -resembled a bed of the pure mountain atmosphere compressed into a -setting of hills and woods. Nothing is wanted but ruined castles and -recollections, to raise it to the level of the scenery of the Rhine." -And thus has the poet sung of it: - - "O Haunted Lake, from out whose silver fountains - The mighty Susquehanna takes its rise; - O Haunted Lake, among the pine-clad mountains, - Forever smiling upward to the skies,-- - A master's hand hath painted all thy beauties; - A master's mind hath peopled all thy shore - With wraiths of mighty hunters and fair maidens, - Haunting thy forest-glades forevermore." - -All around Otsego Lake and its neighborhood are the scenes which -Cooper has interwoven into his novel, _The Deer-Slayer_. About seven -miles northwest are the well-known Richfield Springs (magnesia and -sulphur), near Candarago Lake. This Indian name, meaning "on the -lake," has recently been revived to supersede the old title of -Schuyler's Lake for this beautiful sheet of water, enbosomed in green -and sloping hills, which is the chief scenic charm of Richfield. To -the eastward from Otsego Lake is the romantic Cherry Valley, another -attractive summer resort, and the scene of a sad Indian massacre in -1778, the site of the old fort that was then captured being still -exhibited, with the graves of the murdered villagers, to whom a -monument has been erected. A few miles farther, in a narrow upland -wooded valley surrounded by high hills, are the Sharon Springs -(sulphur and chalybeate), which in earlier times were so popular with -our German citizens, who were attracted by the resemblance to the -Fatherland, that the place was called the "Baden-Baden of America." -The name of Sharon came from Sharon in Connecticut, and the spring -water is discharged with a crust of white and flocculent sulphur into -a stream not inappropriately called the Brimstone Brook. In this -valley, east of the springs, one of the last Revolutionary battles was -fought, Colonel Willett's American force in 1781 routing a detachment -of Tories and Indians with severe loss. There are grottoes in the -neighborhood abounding in stalactites and beautiful crystals of -sulphate of lime. Not far away is the noted Howe's Cave, an immense -cavern, said to extend for eleven miles underground, being an old -water-channel in the lower Helderberg limestone, and which has many -visitors, attracted by its fine display of stalactites and grand rock -chambers, with the usual subterranean lake and stream. All this region -was originally settled by Germans from the Palatinate. - -The Susquehanna, steadily gaining in volume, flows in wayward course -down rapids and around many bends to Binghamton, near the southern -border of New York, where it receives the Chenango River, and its -elevation has declined to eight hundred and sixty feet. This is a busy -manufacturing city and railway junction, having forty thousand -inhabitants. The first settlers came in 1787, and William Bingham of -Philadelphia owning the land at the confluence of the rivers, the town -was afterwards named for him. The Chenango Canal connects the -Susquehanna waters from here with the Erie Canal, about ninety miles -northward, at Utica, the Indian word Chenango meaning "the bull -thistle." Entering Pennsylvania, the Susquehanna now flows many miles -past mountain and village, around great bends and breaking through the -Allegheny ridges, passes along the Wyoming Valley, already described, -and finally going out through the Nanticoke Gap, reaches -Northumberland, where it receives its chief tributary, the West -Branch. This great stream comes for two hundred miles from the -westward through the Allegheny ranges, passing Lewisburg, the seat of -the Baptist University of Lewisburg, Milton, and the noted lumber town -of Williamsport, famous for its great log boom. This arrangement for -collecting logs cost a million dollars, and extends about four miles -up the river above the town, with its massive piers and braces, and -will hold three hundred millions of feet of lumber. The river front is -lined with basins and sawmills. In earlier years this boom has been so -filled with pine and hemlock logs in the spring that the river could -almost anywhere be crossed on a solid floor of timber. Unfortunately, -however, the vast forests on the slopes of the Alleghenies have been -so generally cut off that the trade has seriously declined. At -Northumberland lived Dr. Joseph Priestley, the discoverer of oxygen -gas, who died there in 1804, and is buried in the cemetery. - -The Susquehanna now becomes a broad river, and just below flows past -Sunbury, the railway outlet of the extensive Shamokin coal district. -This town was originally Fort Augusta, built in 1756 to guard the -Susquehanna frontier just below the junction of its two branches. In -the French and Indian War it had usually a garrison of a regiment, and -it was then regarded as the best defensive work in Pennsylvania. After -that war it gradually fell into decay, although during the Revolution -it was always a refuge for the Susquehanna frontier settlers fleeing -from Indian brutality and massacre. Many prominent officers of the -Revolutionary army received their military training at this fort. The -settlement was originally called Shamokin, from the Indian name of the -creek here falling into the Susquehanna--Schakamo-kink, meaning, like -Shackamaxon, "the place of eels." For fifty miles below Sunbury the -broad Susquehanna winds among the mountain ranges, traversing one -after another, until its channel is narrowed to pass through the great -Dauphin Gap in the Kittatinny, five miles above Harrisburg, where the -river bed has descended to an elevation of three hundred and twenty -feet above tide. - - -THE BEAUTIFUL BLUE JUNIATA. - -A long, low bridge carries the Pennsylvania Railroad across the river -in front of Dauphin Gap, and a short distance above, in a delta of -fertile islands, the Susquehanna receives its romantic tributary, the -Juniata, flowing for a hundred miles from the heart of the -Alleghenies, and breaking out of them through a notch cut down in the -long ridge of the Tuscarora Mountain. Here is the iron-making town of -Duncannon, settled by the sturdy Scotch-Irish, who were numerous along -the Juniata and in its neighboring valleys, and who suffered greatly -from Indian forays in the early days of the frontier. Upon Duncan's -Island, the chief one in the delta, at the mouth of the Juniata, was -the place of the council-fire of the Indian tribes of all this region. -Now, this island is mainly a pleasure-ground, having spacious and -shady groves, while the canal, crossing it from the Susquehanna to the -Juniata, goes directly through an extensive Indian mound and -burial-place. We will enter the fastnesses of the Alleghenies by the -winding gorge of the "beautiful blue Juniata," flowing through -magnificent scenery from the eastern face of the main Allegheny range -out to the great river. It breaks down ridge after ridge, stretching -broadly across the country, and presents superb landscapes and -impressive mountain views. The route is a series of bends and gorges, -the river crossing successive valleys between the ridges, now running -for miles northeast along the base of a towering mountain and then -turning east or southeast to break through it by a romantic pass. The -glens and mountains, with ever-changing views, give an almost endless -panorama. Softness of outline, massiveness and variety, are the -peculiarities of Juniata scenery. The stream is small, not carrying a -great amount of water in ordinary seasons, and it seems as much by -strategy as by power to have overcome the obstacles and made its -mountain passes. The rended mountains, steep tree-covered slopes and -frequent isolated sentinel-like hills rising from the glens, have all -been moulded into rounded forms by the action of the elements, leaving -few abrupt precipices or naked rocks to mar the regularity of the -natural beauties. The valleys and lower parts of the mountain sides -are generally cultivated, the fields sloping up to the mantle of -forest crowning the flanks and summits of the ridges. Every change of -sunshine or shadow, and the steady progress of the seasons, give new -tints to these glens and mountains. At times the ravines are deep and -the river tortuous, and again it meanders across the rich flat bottom -lands of a broad valley. In its winding course among these mountain -ranges, this renowned river passes through and displays almost the -whole geological formation of Pennsylvania. The primary rocks are to -the eastward of the Susquehanna, and the bituminous coal measures -begin on the western Allegheny slope, so that the river cuts into a -rock stratification over six miles in thickness, as one after another -formation comes to the surface. - -We go through the narrow Tuscarora Gap, and are journeying over the -lands of the Tuscaroras, one of the Iroquois Six Nations, who came up -from the South, and were given the name of Tuscarora, or the -"shirt-wearer," because long contact with the whites had led them to -adopt that garment. Beyond the Gap, the Tuscarora Valley is enclosed -on its northwest side by the Turkey Mountain, the next western ridge, -and it was a region of terrible Indian conflicts and massacres in the -pioneer days, when the first fort built there was burnt, and every -settler either killed or carried off into captivity. Here was fought -the "Grasshopper War" between the Tuscaroras and Delawares. They had -villages on opposite sides of the river, and one day the children -disputed about some grasshoppers. The quarrel involved first the -squaws and then the men, a bloody battle following. Mifflin, an -attractive town, is located here, and to the westward the Juniata -breaks through the next great ridge crossing its path, passing a -massive gorge formed by the Shade and Blue Mountains, flowing for -miles in the deep and narrow winding canyon between them, the -far-famed "Lewistown or Long Narrows," having the railway hanging upon -one bank and the canal upon the other. Broken, slaty shingle covers -most of the hill-slopes, and in the broad valley, above the lengthened -gorge, is Lewistown, nestling at the base of a huge mountain at the -outlet of the beautiful Kishicoquillas Valley, spreading up among the -high hills to the northward--its name meaning "the snakes are already -in their dens." The hero of this attractive region in the eighteenth -century, and then its most distinguished inhabitant, was Logan, the -chief of the Mingoes and Cayugas, whose speeches, preserved by Thomas -Jefferson, are a favorite in school declamation. He was of giant -mould, nearly seven feet high, and lived at Logan's Spring in the -valley. He was the friend of the white men, but when the frontier -became too well settled for him longer to find the deer on which he -subsisted, selling their skins to the traders, he went westward to the -Ohio River, locating near Wheeling. Here, without provocation, his -family were cruelly massacred, and this ended Logan's love for the -whites. He became a relentless foe, wreaking indiscriminate vengeance, -until killed in the Shawnee wars beyond the Ohio, having joined that -hostile tribe. The Lewistown Narrows are the finest mountain pass of -the Juniata, the peaks precipitously rising over a thousand feet above -the river, which forces a passage between them for more than eight -miles, the densely wooded cliffs so enclosing and overshadowing the -gorge as to give it an appearance of deepest gloom. - - -THE STANDING STONE AND SINKING SPRING. - -Westward beyond the valley rises the next ridge pierced by the Juniata -in its outflow, Jack's Mountain, and its gorge is known as "Jack's -Narrows." Here penetrated Captain Jack Armstrong in the early colonial -days, a hunter and Indian trader, whose cabin was burnt and wife and -children massacred, making him always afterwards an avenging Nemesis, -roving along the Juniata Valley and killing Indians indiscriminately. -Jack's Narrows is a pass even more contracted than that below -Lewistown, and a profusion of shingle and broken stone covers its -mountain sides, the deranged limestone strata in places standing -almost upright. Mount Union is in the valley east of this pass, and -beyond it is the chief town of the Juniata, Huntingdon, which has -about eight thousand people. This was the oldest settlement on the -river, ninety-seven miles west of Harrisburg, the ancient "Standing -Stone," where the Indians of the valley for centuries met to hold -their councils. The earliest white settlers came in 1754. The original -Standing Stone of Huntingdon, erected by the Indians, was a granite -column, about fourteen feet high and six inches square, covered with -strange characters, which were the sacred records of the Oneidas. Once -the Tuscaroras stole it, but the Oneidas followed, and, fighting for -their sacred treasure, recaptured it. When the whites came along, the -Oneidas, who had joined the French, went west, carrying the stone with -them. Afterwards, a second stone, much like the first, was set up, and -a fragment of it is now preserved at Huntingdon. Here was built a -large fort anterior to the Revolution, which was a refuge for the -frontier settlers. The "Standing Stone" is engraved as an appropriate -symbol on the city seal of Huntingdon, being surrounded by a -representation of mountains, and the name of "Oneida" (the granite) is -preserved in a township across the river. Selina, the Countess of -Huntingdon, who was a benefactor of the University of Pennsylvania, -had her titled name given the city. The then University Provost, Dr. -William Smith, became owner of the town site, and thus remembered her -generosity. About fifty miles southwest of Huntingdon, amid the -mountains, is Bedford, noted for its chalybeate and sulphur springs, -discovered in 1804, which have long been a favorite resort of -Pennsylvanians on account of their healing waters. The whole country -thereabout is filled with semi-bituminous coal measures, furnishing a -lucrative traffic. - -Diminishing in volume, our attractive Juniata flows through a rough -country above Huntingdon, after threading the pass in the lofty -Warrior Ridge. Extending off to the southwestward is Morrison's Cove, -a rich valley under the shadow of the long mountain ridge, which was -settled in 1755 by the Dunkards. These singular people, among whose -cardinal doctrines are peace and non-resistance, were attacked by the -Indians in 1777, who entered the valley and almost exterminated the -settlement. Most of them bowed submissively to the stroke of death, -gently saying "Gottes wille sei gethan" (God's will be done). One, -however, resisted, killed two Indians and escaped; but afterwards -returning, the Dunkard Church tried him for this breach of faith, and -he was excommunicated. In this region is the Sinking Spring, a strange -water course originally appearing in a limestone cave, where it comes -out of an arched opening, with sufficient water to turn a large mill; -but it soon disappears underground, the concealed current being heard -through fissures, bubbling far below. Then it returns to the surface, -flowing some distance, enters another cave, passing under Cave -Mountain, and finally reappears and falls into the Juniata, making, in -its peculiar waywardness, as remarkable a stream as can anywhere be -found. Here our famous Juniata River, dwindled to a little creek, -comes down the mountain side, and we penetrate farther by following up -the Little Juniata. It has brought us, through the great ridges, into -the heart of the Appalachian region, to the eastern base of the main -Allegheny Mountain, on the flanks of which are its sources. It has -displayed to us a noted valley, full of the story of early Colonial -contests, massacres and perils, the scenes of the fearless missionary -labors of Brainerd the Puritan and Loskiel the Moravian. Brainerd -recognized the pagan idolatry of the Indians, and did not hesitate to -take the Bible to their solemn religious festivals and expound its -divine principles, to spoil the incantations and frustrate the charms -of their medicine men. Once a Nanticoke pontiff got into a hot -argument with Brainerd, saying God had taught him religion and he -would never turn from it; that he would not believe in the Devil; and -he added that the souls of the dead passed to the South, where the -good lived in a fair city, while the evil hovered forever in outer -darkness. Many are the romances of the attractive Juniata: - - "Gay was the mountain song - Of bright Alfarata, - Where sweep the waters of - The blue Juniata: - 'Strong and true my arrows are, - In my painted quiver, - Swift goes my light canoe - Adown the rapid river.'" - - -CROSSING THE MOUNTAIN TOP. - -At the eastern base of the main Allegheny range a long mountain valley -stretches broadly from the far northeast to the southwest, and here is -Tyrone, a settlement of extensive iron works, and the outlet of the -greatest bituminous coal-fields of Central Pennsylvania, the -Clearfield district, the town of Clearfield being about forty miles to -the northwest. Northeast of Tyrone, this valley is called the Bald -Eagle Valley, a picturesque and fertile region; and to the southwest -it is the Tuckahoe Valley. At the base of the Bald Eagle Mountain, -thirty-three miles from Tyrone, is the town of Bellefonte, another -iron region, handling the products of the Bald Eagle and Nittany -Valleys, and receiving its name from the "Beautiful Fount" which -supplies the town with water. This is one of the most remarkable -springs in the Alleghenies, pouring out two hundred and eighty -thousand gallons of the purest water every minute. Following the -Tuckahoe Valley southward, at the base of the main Allegheny range we -come to the Pennsylvania Railroad town of Altoona, and eight miles -farther to Hollidaysburg. Each is a representative town--Hollidaysburg -of the past methods of crossing the mountain top, and Altoona of the -present. - -In 1836 Mr. David Stephenson, the famous British railway engineer, -made a journey across Pennsylvania by the methods then in vogue, and -wrote that he travelled from Philadelphia to Pittsburg, three hundred -and ninety-five miles by the route taken, in ninety-one hours, at a -cost of three pounds sterling, about four cents a mile, and that one -hundred and eighteen miles of the journey, which he calls -"extraordinary," were by railroads, and two hundred and seventy-seven -miles by canals. This was the line used for twenty years, a main route -of travel from the seaboard to the West, having been put into -operation in 1834. It followed the Columbia Railroad from Philadelphia -to Columbia on the Susquehanna, the canal up the Susquehanna and -Juniata Rivers to Hollidaysburg, a portage railroad by inclined planes -over the main Allegheny Mountain ridge to Johnstown, and the canal -again, down the Conemaugh and Allegheny Rivers to Pittsburg. There -were one hundred and seventy-two miles of canal from Columbia to -Hollidaysburg, which went through more than a hundred locks and -crossed thirty-three aqueducts, having risen about six hundred feet -above the level at Columbia when it reached the eastern face of the -mountain. The canal west of Johnstown was one hundred and five miles -long, descended sixty-four locks, and went through a tunnel of one -thousand feet. The Portage Railroad of thirty-six miles crossed the -mountain by Blair's Gap, above Hollidaysburg, at twenty-three hundred -and twenty-six feet elevation, through a tunnel nine hundred feet -long. There were ten inclined planes, five on each side. The steepest -side of the Allegheny Mountain being its eastern face, the railway -from Hollidaysburg to the summit, though only ten miles long, ascended -fourteen hundred feet, while twenty miles of railway on the western -side descended eleven hundred and seventy-two feet. The cars hauled up -the planes each carried three tons of freight, and three cars were -hauled at a single draft. There could be twenty-four cars carrying -seventy-two tons passed over in one hour, which was ample for the -traffic at that time, the average business being three hundred tons of -freight a day. This amount would be carried in less than ten of the -big cars of to-day. It took passengers eight hours to go over the -mountain, halting one hour on the summit for dinner. - -This route was superseded by the Pennsylvania Railroad crossing above -Altoona, opened in 1854, a road made for ordinary trains; and then -Hollidaysburg became a town of iron manufacture, losing the bustle and -business of the Portage, which was abandoned. The railroad company -acquired a large tract of land between the main Allegheny range and -the Brush Mountain to the southward, which has a deep notch, called -the "Kettle," cut down into it, opening a distant prospect of gray -mountain ridges behind. Here has been established the most completely -representative railway city in the world, having enormous railway -shops, a gigantic establishment, and a population of thirty-five -thousand, almost all in one way or another dependent on the -Pennsylvania Railroad. Altoona is at an elevation of about eleven -hundred feet above tide, and the railway climbs to the summit of the -mountain by a grade of ninety feet to the mile, winding around an -indented valley to get the necessary elevation. At its head this -valley divides into two smaller glens, with a towering crag rising -between them. Having ascended the northern side, the railway curves -around, crossing the smaller glens upon high embankments, doubling -upon itself, and mounting steadily higher by running up the opposite -side of the valley to the outer edge of the ridge. This sweeping curve -gives striking scenic effects, and is the noted Pennsylvania "Horse -Shoe," and the huge crag between the smaller glens, in which the head -of the Horse Shoe curve is partly hewn, is Kittanning Point. This -means the "great stream," two creeks issuing out of the glens uniting -below it; and here was the route, at sixteen hundred feet elevation, -of the ancient Indian trail across the mountain, the "Kittanning -Path," in their portage between the Juniata and Ohio waters. It shows -how closely the modern railroad builder has followed the route set for -him by the original road-makers among the red men. The Pennsylvania -Railroad carries four tracks over the mountain, piercing the summit by -two tunnels at about twenty-two hundred feet elevation, with two -tracks in each. The mountain rises much higher, and has coal mines, -coke ovens and miners' cabins on the very top. This is the watershed -dividing the Atlantic waters from those of the Mississippi, flowing to -the Gulf, and Gallitzin, a flourishing mining village, is the summit -station of the railway. - - - [Illustration: _The Conemaugh near Florence_] - -GOING DOWN THE CONEMAUGH. - -In the latter part of the eighteenth century there were but two white -men living in all this region. The first one there was Thomas Blair, -whose cabin was on the mountain at Blair's Gap, where the Portage -Railroad afterwards came over. The other was Michael Maguire, who came -along in 1790, and going through the Gap, concluded to settle among -the Indians about twelve miles away, at what was afterwards Loretto. -These rugged pioneers spent most of their time fighting and watching -the Indians and wild beasts, and gathered a few companions -around them. Here afterwards came Prince Demetrius Augustine -Gallitzin, who left the Russian army in 1792 and visited America, -designing to travel. He became a Catholic priest, and liking these -mountains, established a mission at Loretto in 1798, spending a -fortune in maintaining it, his missionary charge ultimately extending -over the whole mountain region. He attracted a population of about -three thousand, chiefly Germans and Irish, repeatedly refused the -episcopacy, and continued his labors until his death at Loretto in -1840. His remains lie in front of his church, surmounted by a -monument, while the centenary of this St. Michael's Church of Loretto -was marked in October, 1899, by erecting his bronze statue, the -Prelate-Prince Gallitzin being portrayed as he appeared in the -Allegheny wilderness, wearing cassock, surplice and a skull-cap in -lieu of the beretta, this being his usual head-gear at service. -Loretto, named after the city on the Adriatic, was the first nucleus -of population in this elevated district, and is about five miles north -of the railway. Loretto was the first settlement in this region, but -afterwards the coal and iron attracted the Welsh, who came in numbers, -and founded the town of Ebensburg, about eleven miles from the -railway. They gave their familiar name of Cambria to the county. Here -on the mountain side, at an elevation of over two thousand feet, are -the Cresson Springs, a noted health resort, with a half-dozen -medicinal springs, the chief being an astringent chalybeate and a -strong alum. - -The route west of the mountain is down the valley of the Conemaugh, in -a district underlaid with coal, and having at every village evidence -of this industry. The Conemaugh is "the other stream" of the Indians, -and winding down its tortuous valley, with coal and iron all about, -the railway comes to the settlement of Conemaugh, which spreads into -the larger town of Johnstown, the seat of the great Cambria Steel -Works. The Conemaugh Valley is a deep canyon, and Conemaugh village -was the western terminus of the mountain portage, where the canal -began. A little flat space about a mile beyond, at the junction of -Stony Creek, was in early times an Indian village, then known from its -sachem as "Kickenapawling's Old Town." When the white men ventured -over the mountain, there came among them a hardy German pioneer named -Joseph Jahns, who built a log cabin on the flat in 1791, and from him -the cluster of little houses that grew afterwards became known as -Jahnstown. Then came the Welsh miners and iron-workers, and they set -up charcoal furnaces, and soon changed the name to Johnstown. From -this humble beginning grew the largest iron and steel establishment in -Pennsylvania. Its ores, coal and limestone were originally all dug out -of the neighboring ridges, though now it uses Lake Superior ores. The -Conemaugh Valley is here enclosed by high hills, and in the centre of -the town the railroad is carried across the river on a solid stone -bridge with low arches. - -This region, on May 31, 1889, was the scene of one of the most -appalling disasters of modern times. A deluge of rain for the greater -part of two days had fallen upon the Alleghenies, and made great -freshets in both the Juniata and the Conemaugh. On the South Fork of -the Conemaugh, fifteen miles above Johnstown, is Conemaugh Lake, a -reservoir there formed by damming the stream, so that it covered a -surface of five hundred acres--the dam, a thousand feet long, being in -places one hundred feet high. This had been made as a fishing-ground -by a club of Pittsburg anglers. The excessive rains filled the lake, -and the weakened dam burst, its twenty millions of tons of waters -rushing down the already swollen Conemaugh in a mass a half-mile wide -stretching across the valley and forty to fifty feet high, carrying -everything before it. The lake level was about three hundred feet -higher than Johnstown, and every village, tree, house, and the whole -railway, with much of the soil and rocks, were carried before the -resistless flood to Johnstown, where the mass was stopped by and piled -up behind the stone railway bridge, and there caught fire, the -resistless flood, to get out, sweeping away nearly the whole town in -the valley bottom. This vast calamity destroyed from three to five -thousand lives, for no accurate estimate could be ever made, and ten -millions of property. It took the flood about seven minutes of actual -time to pass over the fifteen miles between the lake and Johnstown, -and there was left, after it had passed, a wide bed, like a great -Alpine glacial _moraine_, filled with ponderous masses of sand and -stones and wreckage of every description, the resistless torrent being -afterwards reduced to a little stream of running water. It required -many months to recover from this appalling destruction; but the people -went to work with a will and rebuilt the town, the steel works and the -railway, which for a dozen miles down the valley had been completely -obliterated. This terrible disaster excited universal sympathy, and a -relief fund amounting to nearly $3,000,000 was contributed from all -parts of the world. - - -LIGONIER AND HANNASTOWN. - -The whole mountain district west of Johnstown is filled with coal -mines, coke ovens and iron furnaces, this being the "Pittsburg Coal -District." The Conemaugh breaks through the next western ridge, the -Laurel Mountain, and the broadening river winds along its deep valley -between high wooded hills. It is a veritable "Black Country," and ten -miles beyond, the river passes the finest mountain gorge on the -western slope of the Alleghenies, the deep and winding canyon of the -Packsaddle Narrows, by which the Conemaugh breaks out of the Chestnut -Ridge, the western border of the Allegheny ranges. For two hundred -miles the railroad has gone through or over range after range, and -this grand pass, encompassed by mountains rising twelve hundred feet -above the bottom of the gorge, is the impressive exit at the final -portal. The main railroad then leaves the Conemaugh, and goes off -southwestward along the slope of Chestnut Ridge towards Greensburg and -Pittsburg. The river unites with the Loyalhanna Creek below, and then -flows as the Kiskiminetas down to the Allegheny. The name of -Loyalhanna means the "middle stream," while the tradition is that an -impatient Indian warrior, anxious to move forward, shouted in the -night to his comrades encamped on the other river--"Giesh-gumanito"-- -"let us make daylight"--and from this was derived its name of -Kiskiminetas. A branch railroad from here goes to Blairsville, named -in memory of the solitary pioneer of Blair's Gap, and another -northward leads to the town of Indiana. The great Chestnut Ridge which -the main railway runs along, gradually descending the slope, is the -last mountain the westbound traveller sees until he reaches the -Rockies. For seventy miles to the southwestward the Chestnut Ridge and -Laurel Mountain extend in parallels, their crest lines being almost -exactly ten miles apart, and enclosing the Ligonier Valley, out of -which flows northward the Loyalhanna Creek, breaking through the -Chestnut Ridge. Near this pass in 1757 was built Fort Ligonier, -another of the frontier outposts which resisted the incursions of the -French and Indians, who then held all the country to the westward. In -the Chestnut Ridge at Hillside is the "Great Bear Cave," an extensive -labyrinth of passages and spacious chambers stretching more than a -mile underground, which, like most such places, has its subterranean -river and its tale of woe. A young girl, stolen by gypsies, to escape -from them took refuge in this cave, and losing her way, perished, her -bones being found years afterwards. Explorers since have always -unwound balls of twine in this labyrinth, to be able to retrace their -steps. - -In a good farming district of the Westmoreland region is Greensburg, -another railway junction where branches go southward to the -Monongahela coalfields. Robert Hanna built a house near here in the -eighteenth century, around which gathered some thirty log cabins, and -the place in course of time became known as Hannastown, prominent in -the early history of Western Pennsylvania. Here was held the first -court convened west of the Alleghenies, and here were passed the -patriotic resolutions of May 16, 1775, upon receipt of the news of the -battle of Lexington at the opening of the Revolution, which sounded -the keynote for the Declaration of Independence the following year. -Here also first appeared during the Revolution General Arthur St. -Clair, an immigrant from Scotland, the grandson of the Earl of -Roslyn, who lived in an humble house on Chestnut Ridge. He served in -the French and Indian wars, and was the British commander at Fort -Ligonier. Horrible Indian massacres and terrible retributions by the -settlers were the chief features of the Revolutionary War in -Westmoreland. At its close, the whites sent an expedition in 1782 -against the Wyandottes, which was defeated. The savages soon wreaked -fearful vengeance, raiding the region in July of that year and burning -Hannastown, which was never rebuilt. Greensburg appeared soon -afterwards, however, and in 1875 it celebrated the centenary of the -Hannastown resolutions with patriotic spirit. In its Presbyterian -churchyard lie the remains of General St. Clair, who, after founding -and naming the city of Cincinnati, returned here, and died in 1818, at -the age of eighty-four, in his lonely cabin on Chestnut Ridge, in -unmerited poverty and obscurity. The stone over his grave has this -significant inscription: "The earthly remains of General Arthur St. -Clair are deposited beneath this humble monument, which is erected to -supply the place of a nobler one due from his country." Being in a -region of fine agriculture and prolific mines, Greensburg is a -prosperous and wealthy town. - - -BRADDOCK'S DEFEAT. - -Natural gas is added to coal and coke in the region beyond Greensburg, -and the villages display flaring gas torches at night for street -lamps. The whole country, north, south and west, is a network of -railways and a maze of mines, having long rows of burning coke ovens -lighting the sky with their lurid glare. Here are mined the -Westmoreland gas coals. The valley of the Monongahela River, coming up -from West Virginia, approaches from the southward, a great highway for -coal boats out to the Ohio and the West, also receiving a large coal -tribute from its branch, the Youghiogheny, flowing by crooked course -through Fayette County. Alongside the Monongahela is the great Edgar -Thomson Steel Works, one of the chief establishments of the Carnegie -Steel Company, making railway rails. Here is the famous Colonial -battlefield of Western Pennsylvania, made immortal by General -Braddock's defeat in July, 1755. This region was then a thick forest, -through which an Indian trail coming over the Monongahela led to the -junction of the two rivers forming the Ohio, where the French had -established their stockade and trading post of Fort Duquesne. Braddock -came into this region from beyond the mountains, his object being the -capture of the fort. His defeat, a great event in our Colonial -history, was due to his ignorance of the methods of Indian fighting -and his refusal to listen to those who understood it; but he paid the -penalty with his life, being shot, as was believed at the time, by one -of his own men, after having had five horses shot under him. It was -in rallying the defeated remnant that Washington, the senior surviving -officer, won his first military laurels. Braddock crossed the river -and was caught in an ambuscade, eight hundred and fifty French and -Indians surprising and defeating his force of about twenty-five -hundred British regulars and Virginia Provincial troops, the loss -being nearly eight hundred. Washington led the remnant back to -Virginia, carrying Braddock about forty miles on the retreat, when he -died. He was buried at night in the centre of the road, Washington -reading the Episcopal burial service by torchlight, and the defeated -army marched over the grave to conceal its location from the enemy. A -handsome monument is erected on the battlefield at Braddock's. And -thus, through iron mills and coal mines, amid smoke and busy industry, -the Pennsylvania Railroad enters Pittsburg, the "Iron City." - - -THE GREAT IRON CITY. - -The Monongahela River coming from the southward, and the Allegheny -River flowing from the northward, drain the western defiles of the -Alleghenies, and at Pittsburg unite to form the Ohio River. Each comes -to the junction through a deeply-cut canyon, and at the confluence is -a triangular flat upon which the original town was built. Like most -American rivers, all these have names of Indian origin. Monongahela is -the "river of high banks, breaking off in places and falling down." -Ohio is a Seneca word, originally pronounced "O-hee-o," and meaning -the "beautiful river" or the "fair water," and Allegheny in the -language of the Delawares has much the same signification, meaning -"the fairest stream." All the Indians regarded the two as really the -same river, of which the Monongahela was a tributary. The first white -men exploring this region were the French, who came down from the -lakes and Canada, when they spread through the entire Mississippi -Valley. In 1753, however, Washington with a surveying party was sent -out by Virginia and carefully examined the site of Pittsburg, -advising, on his return, that a fort should be built there to check -the advance of the French, and the next year this was done. Scarcely -was it completed, however, when the French sent a summons to -surrender, addressed "From the Commander-in-chief of His Most -Christian Majesty's troops now on the Beautiful River to the Commander -of those of Great Britain." A French force soon appeared, and the fort -was abandoned. This began the French and Indian Colonial War that -continued seven years, the French then erecting their famous fort and -trading-post guarding the head of the Ohio, which they named after the -great French naval commander of the seventeenth century, Marquis -Abraham Duquesne. Then came Braddock's defeat in 1755, and for some -time the region was quiet. Moravian missionary influence, however, -had by 1758 detached many of the Indians from the French interest, and -after another British attack and repulse, General Forbes came with a -large force, and the French abandoned the fort and blew it up. -Immediately rebuilt by the English, a Virginia garrison occupied the -post, and it was named Fort Pitt. Then a larger fort was built at a -cost of $300,000 and garrisoned by artillery, which the enemy vainly -besieged in 1763. The next year a town site was laid out near the -fort, and in 1770 it had twenty log houses. After the long succession -of wars and massacres on that frontier had ceased, the village grew, -and business began developing--at first, boat- and vessel-building, -and then smelting and coal mining and the manufacture of glass. In -1812 the first rolling-mill started, and the war with England in that -year caused the opening of a cannon foundry, which became the Fort -Pitt Iron Works. The village of Fort Pitt had become Pittsburg, and -expanded vastly with the introduction of steam, and it became an -extensive steamboat builder for the Western waters. Railroad -connections gave it renewed impetus; natural gas used as a -manufacturing fuel was a wonderful stimulant; and it now conducts an -enormous trade with all parts of the country, and is the seat of the -greatest iron, steel and glass industries in America. - -Few views are more striking than that given from the high hills -overlooking Pittsburg. Rising steeply, almost from the water's edge, -on the southern bank of the Monongahela River, is Mount Washington, -three hundred and fifty feet high. Inclined-plane railways are -constructed up the face of this hill, and mounting to the top, there -is a superb view over the town. The Allegheny River comes from the -northeast and the Monongahela from the southeast, through deep and -winding gorges cut into the rolling tableland, and uniting form the -Ohio, flowing away to the northwest also through a deep gorge, -although its bordering ridges of hills are more widely separated. -Pittsburg stands upon the low flat surface of the peninsula, above the -junction of the rivers, which has some elongated ridgy hills, -stretching eastward through the centre. Its situation and appearance -have thus not inaptly been compared to a flatiron, the point being at -the head of the Ohio, and these ridgy hills making the handle. The -city has overflowed into extensive suburbs across both rivers, the -aggregate population being more than a half-million. Numerous bridges -span the rivers, the narrow shores between the steep hills bearing a -mixed maze of railways and factories. Countless chimney-smokes and -steam-jets come up in all directions, overhanging the town like a -pall; and so impressive is the obscuration, combined with the lurid -glare of furnaces and the weird white gleam of electric lights, that -the elevated view down into Pittsburg seems a veritable pandemonium. -So startling is it on a lowering day that it has been pointedly -described by one who thus for the first time looked upon the "Smoky -City," far down in its deep basin among the high hills, as appearing -like "Hell with the lid off." There are plenty of railways in the -scene, and scores of odd-looking, stumpy-prowed little steamboats -built high above the water, having huge stern-wheels to drive them, -with their noses thrust up on the sloping levee along the river bank, -whereon is piled the cargoes, chiefly of iron products. The swift -current turns all the sterns down stream, so that they lie diagonally -towards the shore. Fleets of flat, shallow coal barges are moored -along, waiting to be made up into tows for their journey down the -Ohio, as Pittsburg has an extensive river trade, covering over twenty -thousand miles of Western waters. Out of the weird and animated scene -there come all sorts of busy noises, forges and trip-hammers pounding, -steam hissing, railroad trains running, whistles screeching, -locomotives puffing, bells ringing, so that with the flame jets -rising, and the smokes of all colors blowing about, there is got a -good idea of the active industries of this very busy place. - - -PITTSBURG DEVELOPMENT. - -This wonderful industrial development all came within the nineteenth -century. There is still preserved as a relic of its origin the little -block-house citadel of the old Fort Pitt, down near the point of the -peninsula where the rivers join. This has recently been restored by -the Daughters of the American Revolution--a small square building with -a pyramidal roof. The surrounding stockade long ago disappeared. There -is in the Pittsburg City Hall an inscribed tablet from Fort Pitt -bearing the date 1764. The old building, which was the scene of -Pittsburg's earliest history, for it stands almost on the spot -occupied by Fort Duquesne, is among modern mills and storehouses, -about three hundred feet from the head of the Ohio. Pittsburg, after -an almost exclusive devotion to manufacturing and business, began some -years ago to cultivate artistic tastes in architecture, and has some -very fine buildings. There is an elaborate Post-office and an -interesting City Hall on Smithfield Street; but the finest building of -all, and one of the best in the country, is the magnificent Romanesque -Court-house, built at a cost of $2,500,000, and occupying a prominent -position on a hill adjoining Fifth Avenue. There is a massive jail of -similar architecture, and a "Bridge of Sighs" connects them, a -beautifully designed arched and stone-covered bridge, thrown for a -passageway across an intervening street. The main tower, giving a -grand view, rises three hundred and twenty feet over the architectural -pile, and, as in Venice, the convicted prisoner crosses the bridge -from his trial to his doom. There are attractive churches, banks and -business buildings, and eastward from the city, near Schenley Park, is -the attractive Carnegie Library and Museum in Italian Renaissance, -with a capacity for two hundred thousand volumes, a benefaction of Mr. -Andrew Carnegie, originally costing $1,100,000, to which he has -recently added $1,750,000 for its enlargement. The residential section -is mainly on the hills east of Pittsburg and across the Allegheny -River in Allegheny City, there being many attractive villas in -beautiful situations on the surrounding highlands. - -But the great Pittsburg attraction is the multitude of factories that -are its pride and create its prosperity. Some of these are among the -greatest in the world--the Edgar Thomson Works and Homestead Works of -the Carnegie Steel Company, the Duquesne Steel Works, the Keystone -Bridge Company, and others. The Edgar Thomas mills make over a million -tons of rails a year, and at Homestead fifteen hundred thousand tons -of steel will be annually produced, this being the place where -nickel-steel armor-plates for the navy are manufactured. They largely -use natural gas, and employ at times ten thousand men at the two great -establishments. The Duquesne Works, just above Homestead on the -Monongahela, have the four largest blast furnaces in the world, -producing twenty-two hundred tons of pig-iron daily. The Keystone -Bridge Works cover seven acres, and have made some of the greatest -steel bridges in existence. The Westinghouse Electrical Works -manufacture the greatest dynamos, including those of the Niagara -Power Company, and the Westinghouse Air-Brake Works is also another -extensive establishment. In the Pittsburg district, covering about two -hundred square miles, the daily product of mines and factories is -estimated at $6,000,000. - -The two men whose names are most closely connected with Pittsburg's -vast industrial development are Andrew Carnegie and George -Westinghouse. Carnegie was born at Dunfermline, Scotland, in 1837, and -his father, a potter, brought him to Pittsburg when eleven years old. -He began life as a telegraph messenger boy, attracted the attention of -Colonel Thomas A. Scott, and was by him brought into the service of -the Pennsylvania Railroad. Then he entered business, and became the -greatest developer of the iron and steel industries of Pittsburg and -its wealthiest resident. He some time ago sold out his interests to -the Carnegie Steel Company, in which he is largely interested. -Westinghouse, born in New York State in 1846, combined with business -tact the genius of the inventor. He invented and developed the railway -air-brake now in universal use, has established a complete electrical -lighting and power system, and was the chief adapter of natural gas to -manufacturing and domestic uses, being the inventor of many ingenious -contrivances for its introduction and economical employment. He had a -gas well almost at his door, for Pittsburg overlaid a great deposit. -The enormous coal measures underlying and surrounding the city have -been its most stable basis for industry and profit, as the Pittsburg -coal-field is one of enormous output. The deposits of Lake Superior -furnish the ores for its furnaces, and the railroad development is -such that each enormous establishment now has its special railroad to -fetch in the ores from Lake Erie, where they are brought by vessels. -Across in Allegheny City, where most of these ore-bringing roads go -out, about one hundred acres in the centre of the city are reserved -for the attractive Allegheny Park, one portion rising in a very steep -hill, almost at the edge of the Allegheny River. Upon its top, seen -from afar, stands a Soldiers' Monument, a graceful column, erected in -memory of four thousand men of Allegheny County who fell in the Civil -War. Soldier statues guard the base, and look out upon the smokes and -steam jets of the busy city below, and thousands climb up there to -enjoy the grand view. - - -COAL, COKE AND GAS. - -The four counties adjoining Pittsburg turn out over thirty millions of -tons of bituminous coal in a year. To carry this coal away, besides -railways, the city has about a million and a half of tonnage of river -craft of various kinds, a greater tonnage than all the Mississippi -River ports put together. Its coal boats go everywhere throughout the -Western water ways, and two thousand miles down the Ohio and -Mississippi to New Orleans. Its stumpy but powerful little tugs, with -their stern-wheels, will safely convey fleets of shallow flatboats, -sometimes over twenty thousand tons of coal being carried in a single -tow. These flatboats are collected in the rivers about Pittsburg, -waiting for the proper stage of water on the Ohio; and to regulate the -depth at the city the curious movable dam was constructed at Davis's -Island, four miles below Pittsburg, at a cost of $1,000,000, the dam -opening when necessary to let freshets through, and having a lock five -hundred feet long and one hundred and ten feet wide to pass the boats. -The Monongahela River above Pittsburg has for miles a series of coal -mines in the high bordering banks, the river being lined with coal -"tipples," which load the flatboats; and it is also provided with a -series of dams, which aid navigation and divide the channel into a -succession of "pools." The very crooked Youghiogheny flows in at -McKeesport, fifteen miles above Pittsburg, another river of coal -mines, whose name was given as a signification of its crookedness by -the matter-of-fact Indians, the word signifying "the stream flowing a -contrary, roundabout course." This river comes northward out of the -chief coke district of America, in the flanks of the long Chestnut -Ridge, the Connellsville coke region sometimes turning out ten -millions of tons annually from its ovens. Railways run in there on -both river banks to Connellsville, a town of six thousand people, in -the midst of the coke ovens, and about fifty-six miles south of -Pittsburg. - -Pittsburg is decreasing its use of natural gas for manufacturing, as -the diminishing supply and greater distance it has to be brought are -making it too costly for the iron and glass works, which are returning -again to coal and coke, but the city is still said to use forty-five -thousand millions of cubic feet in a year, mostly for domestic -purposes. Pittsburg stands in a great but partly exhausted natural-gas -district. The gas is stored under pressure beneath strata of rock, -being set free when these are pierced. This is a gaseous member of the -paraffin series, of which petroleum is a liquid member, and is mainly -marsh-gas, the "fire-damp" of the miner. It originates in the -decomposition of animal and vegetable life, and usually has but little -odor, whilst its illuminating power is low, but in fuel value eight -cubic feet equal one pound of coal. It was first used at Fredonia, New -York, in 1821, for lighting purposes, being procured from a well. The -natural-gas region is the part of Pennsylvania west of the -Alleghenies, extending into New York, Ohio and West Virginia; and gas -is also found in Indiana, Illinois, Kentucky and Kansas. It is held -under enormous pressure within the pockets beneath the rocks, and when -first reached in drilling, the tension has been known to equal a -thousand pounds per square inch. It is not uncommon, when a well is -drilled, to have all the tools and casing-pipe blown out, while an -enormous thickness of masonry has to be constructed to hold down the -cap that covers the well. Its use began in Pittsburg in 1886, the -chief field of supply then being Murrysville, about twenty miles east -of the city, while there are also other fields southwest and east of -Pittsburg. The pipes underlie all the streets, and a main route of -supply is along the bed of the Allegheny River. There are said to be -about sixteen hundred miles of pipes laid down to lead the gas to -Pittsburg from the different fields. - - -PETROLEUM. - -The great petroleum fields lie in and near the Pittsburg region, in -the basin of the Allegheny and Ohio Rivers, and extend from New York -southwest to West Virginia, and also into Ohio. This region has had -enormous yields in different parts of the river basin, the wells, -however, ultimately dwindling as their supplies are drawn out. The -petroleum industry, which has been one of the greatest in -Pennsylvania, has been gradually all absorbed by the Standard Oil -Company, which is probably the most extensive industrial combination -in America, and certainly the most powerful. Yet we are told that -those financial magnates began their wonderful career with an -aggregate capital of only $24,000, largely borrowed money. There have -been forty millions of barrels of petroleum taken from this great -basin in a single year. The oil wells are bored in many places, south, -southwest, north and northeast of Pittsburg. The "Panhandle Railroad," -which crosses West Virginia to the Ohio, exhibits many of them. A -branch of this railroad goes to Canonsburg, and thence to the town of -Washington, on the old "National Road," thirty miles from Pittsburg. -At Canonsburg was founded in 1773 Jefferson College, in a log cabin, -which has now become the Jefferson Theological Seminary of the -Presbyterian Church. Washington is a town of about four thousand -people, rambling over a pleasant hilly region in Southwestern -Pennsylvania, having as its chief institution Washington and Jefferson -College, also a Presbyterian foundation, started in 1806 in what was -then a remote Scotch-Irish colony beyond the mountains. Near this town -in 1888 were struck the greatest petroleum wells the world ever knew. -One of them, the Jumbo well, in sixty days after the first strike had -poured out one hundred and forty thousand barrels of oil, flowing a -steady circular stream of almost white oil, about five inches in -diameter, at the rate of forty-two hundred gallons an hour. Another -well, afterwards bored not far away, in its freshness of infancy -poured out sixty-three hundred gallons an hour. Additional wells were -bored with almost the same results; but they all afterwards dwindled, -and finally ceasing a free flow, had to be pumped. This is the -universal experience of all the oil regions, the "gushers," soon after -the great strikes, giving out, as the store of petroleum in the -reservoirs beneath becomes exhausted. But all this shows how enormous -is the natural wealth of the Pittsburg district--oil, coal, coke and -gas, with iron, steel and glass, electricity and railways, -contributing to the wonderful prosperity. - -The greatest petroleum field, however, was up the Allegheny River, in -Northwestern Pennsylvania, and the first wells bored to obtain it were -sunk at Titusville, on Oil Creek, in 1859. The early settlers knew of -the appearance of oil about the headwaters of the Allegheny in New -York and Pennsylvania, and the name of Oil Creek was given a stream -for this reason in Allegheny County, New York, and also to the one in -Venango County, Pennsylvania. The Indians had long collected the oil -on the shores of Seneca Lake in New York, a course that the white -settlers followed, and it was for years sold as a medicine by the name -of Seneca or Genesee oil. When its commercial value for illuminating -purposes began to be recognized, Colonel E. L. Drake went to -Titusville to see if it could be obtained in sufficient quantities. He -bored the first well about a mile south of Titusville, and on August -26, 1859, the oil was struck at a depth of seventy-one feet. The drill -suddenly sunk into the cavity of the rock beneath, and the oil rose -within a few inches of the surface. A small pump was introduced which -brought out four hundred gallons daily, and then a large pump, -increasing the daily flow to a thousand gallons. Soon a steam-engine -was applied, and the flow continued uninterrupted for weeks. -Titusville had at the time three hundred people. Many wells were sunk -in the neighborhood with varying success, and the product of the Oil -Creek district became so large that the market could not absorb it, -and at the beginning of 1861, with two thousand wells in operation, -the price declined to twenty-five cents per barrel. The two great -wells were the Empire, originally yielding twenty-five hundred barrels -daily, and the Phillips, nearly four thousand barrels. In 1863 the -production had slackened, but the uses had expanded, and prices rose -proportionately. Vast fortunes were then rapidly made, and as soon -squandered. In the first twelve years of the development of this -district, which extended over about four hundred square miles, there -were taken from some four thousand wells forty-two millions of barrels -of oil, which were marketed for $163,000,000. At first it was carried -away by the railroads, of which several sent branches into the -district, but there have since been laid extensive lines of pipes -which convey it in various directions, and largely to New York and -Philadelphia for foreign export. When this district was at the height -of its yield it produced four hundred millions of gallons a year. - - -ASCENDING THE ALLEGHENY. - -From Pittsburg, through bold and pleasing scenery, we ascend the -Allegheny River, the broad channel flowing grandly around stately -bends enclosed between high hills. Thirty miles above Pittsburg the -Kiskiminetas comes in, and in a region of coal mines and furnaces is -found the town of Kittanning, which retains the name of the Indian -village standing there in Colonial days. This original Indian village -was attacked by Colonel Armstrong and three hundred troops at dawn on -August 8, 1757, and the Indians, who sided with the French, refusing -to surrender, they were pretty much all killed and their village -burnt. Armstrong's name is preserved in the county. Beyond is Brady's -Bend, a great curve of the river, and here are seen the derricks of -many deserted oil wells, as the farther journey above for miles also -discloses. This was the Modoc oil district. The Morrison well was -struck in 1872, yielding five hundred barrels daily, and immediately a -town was laid out, not inappropriately called Greece City, and it soon -had a large population. This was a prolific oil region at one time, -and back from the river were the well-known oleaginous towns of Modoc -City, Karns City and Petrolia. The Allegheny River gradually leads us -up to Venango County, which was the chief oil region. Franklin, the -capital of the county, has about five thousand inhabitants, and is -built at the mouth of French Creek, the site of the old French Fort -Venango, which Indian word meant "a guiding mark on a tree." It stood -on a commanding ridge, and was one of the chain of posts the French -built from the lakes across to the Ohio, to hold their possessions, -dating from 1753. The French had a large garrison there, but after -Canada was captured the English got possession, and in 1763 it was the -scene of a terrible massacre, the Indians taking it, murdering the -entire garrison, and slowly roasting the commandant to death. - -Five miles above, Oil Creek flows into the Allegheny, and here is Oil -City, the petroleum headquarters. It has had a varying history, being -once almost destroyed by flood and twice by fire, but maintains its -supremacy and is a complete oil town--the air filled with petroleum -odors, and the lower streets saturated with the fluid. On the -Allegheny, nine miles from Oil City, is Oleopolis, and a short -distance inland is Pithole City, which was one of the famous oil towns -whose rise and decline were so phenomenal. A few farmers here tried to -get a scanty subsistence from the rocky and almost barren soil, where, -on a hill, there was a fissure two to four feet wide, called the -"pithole," from which came out at intervals hot air and bad smells. -This was on the Holmden farm, which had been nominally valued at five -dollars an acre. Somebody thought he detected the smell of oil among -the odors coming up, and a well was bored. It struck oil in the winter -of 1864-65, and was the greatest strike made down to that time--the -United States Well yielding seven thousand barrels daily. Multitudes -flocked thither, and in six months Pithole City arose in the -wilderness with fifteen thousand inhabitants, two theatres, an opera -house, a daily newspaper, and seventy-two hotels of various degrees. -Numerous wells were sunk, and the oil sold at $5 to $8 per barrel, -being readily sent to the seaboard. The Holmden farm was soon sold for -$4,000,000. There were some amazing speculative trades made. The story -is told of a well striking oil and a speculative bystander at once -buying a three-fourths interest in it for $18,000, agreeing to pay the -money next day. Turning away from the seller, he met a man seeking -such an investment, and promptly resold his interest for $75,000, -receiving immediate payment. The yield of this region was so prolific -that railroads and pipe lines were soon constructed to carry the oil -away. Pithole had its great boom in the autumn of 1866, wells being -bored in every direction, and real estate fetching enormous prices. -One old fellow who had a few acres of arid land in the centre of the -excitement sold his farm and hovel for $800,000, paid him on the spot -in $1000 notes; and then he sorrowfully bemoaned, as he took a last -look at the hovel he had occupied all his life, "Now I haint got any -home." The rise of this wonderful town was rapid, and its downfall -came all too soon. The oil supply became exhausted, the speculators -left, the inhabitants dwindled in number, and by 1870 Pithole had -reverted almost to its original condition. The chief hotel, which had -cost $31,000 to build, was afterwards sold for $100, and the -population had declined in 1873 to nine families. - -The valley of Oil Creek is filled with derricks and oil tanks, having -a few pumping engines at work, but most of the derricks are over -abandoned wells. Eighteen miles up Oil Creek is Titusville, and when -the oil yield was at its height, about 1865, this valley had a -population of seventy-five thousand people. Titusville is pleasantly -built in the broadened intervale, surrounded by hills, the streets -being wide and straight, and the residences comfortable, each in its -garden enclosure. There are oil refineries, and iron works which make -engines, tubing and other supplies; and the town, which has eight -thousand people, is a headquarters for the Standard Oil Company. -Twenty-seven miles farther northward is Corry, a prominent railroad -centre, at the northern entrance to the Pennsylvania "Oil Dorado," as -the region has been popularly called. Its name of Corry was that of -the farmer who originally cultivated the soil when the place became a -railway station in 1861, and the location of oil refineries then began -its prosperity. There are now about six thousand inhabitants. It is -within a short distance of the New York State boundary, and marks the -northern limit of the Pennsylvania oil region. This whole district, -once the prominent petroleum field of Pennsylvania, has been eclipsed, -however, by other and more prolific oil basins. Fortunes were made -here, but most of the wealth passed away; and the history of the -Pennsylvania petroleum trade and its vicissitudes, with the absorption -of everything of value by the Standard Oil Company, has emphasized the -truth so pointedly told by Robert Burns, that "The best laid schemes -o' mice an' men gang aft a-gley." Its wonderful tide of prosperity and -its subsequent ebb recall Shelley's lines "To Men of England": - - "The seed ye sow another reaps; - The wealth ye find another keeps; - The robes ye weave another wears; - The arms ye forge another bears." - - - - -VISITING THE SUNNY SOUTH. - - - - -V. - -VISITING THE SUNNY SOUTH. - - Sir Walter Raleigh -- Roanoke Island -- Virginia Dare -- - Potatoes -- Tobacco -- Carolina -- Cape Hatteras -- Cyclones -- - Wilmington -- Fort Fisher -- Blockade Running -- Charleston -- - Palmetto Trees -- John C. Calhoun -- Fort Moultrie -- Osceola's - Grave -- Fort Sumter -- Opening of the Civil War -- The Swamp - Angel -- St. Michael's Church -- Port Royal -- Savannah -- - General Oglethorpe -- Count Pulaski -- Fort Pulaski -- - Bonaventure Cemetery -- Okifenokee Swamp -- Jacksonville -- The - Alligator -- Oranges -- Land of Flowers -- Juan Ponce de Leon - -- Ferdinand de Soto -- The Huguenots -- Pedro Menendez -- - Dominique de Gourgues -- Florida Peculiarities -- Cumberland - Sound -- St. Mary's River -- Cumberland Island -- Jekyll Island - -- Amelia Island -- Fernandina -- Dungeness -- General Greene - -- Light Horse Harry -- St. Augustine -- Matanzas River -- - Anastasia Island -- Coquina -- Fort San Marco -- Fort Marion -- - Grand Hotels -- Dade's Massacre -- Coa-coo-chee, the Wildcat -- - Ormond -- Daytona -- New Smyrna -- The Southern Cassadega -- - Indian River -- Titusville -- Rockledge -- Fort Pierce -- - Jupiter Inlet -- Palm Beach -- Miami -- Biscayne Bay -- St. - John's River -- Mandarin -- Palatka -- Ocklawaha River -- Lake - Apopka -- Lake Eustis Region -- Ocala -- The Silver Spring -- - Navigating the Ocklawaha -- Lake George -- Volusia -- Lake - Monroe -- Enterprise -- Sanford -- Winter Park -- Orlando -- - Lake Tohopekaliga -- Kissimmee River -- Lake Okeechobee -- The - Everglades -- Lake Arpeika -- The Seminoles -- Suwanee River -- - Cedar Key -- Tallahassee -- Achille Murat -- Wakulla Spring -- - Appalachicola -- Pensacola -- Homosassa -- Tampa -- Charlotte - Harbor -- Punta Gorda -- Caloosahatchie River -- Fort Myers -- - Cape Romano -- Cape Sable -- Florida Keys -- Coral Building -- - The Gulf Stream -- Key West -- Fort Taylor -- Sand Key -- Dry - Tortugas -- Fort Jefferson -- Florida Attractions. - - -CAROLINA. - -Sir Walter Raleigh, of chivalrous memory, sent the first English -colony to America in the sixteenth century. He was a half-brother of -Sir Humphrey Gilbert, the English explorer, and had previously -accompanied Gilbert to Newfoundland. He sent out an expedition in -1584, which selected Roanoke Island, south of the Chesapeake, for a -settlement, and for this enterprise Queen Elizabeth knighted Raleigh, -gave him a grant of the whole country, and directed that the new land -be named in her honor, Virginia. In 1585-86 colonizing expeditions -were sent to Roanoke, but they did not prosper. The colonists -quarrelled with the Indians, and in the latter year the Governor -returned to England for provisions and reinforcements, leaving behind -with the colony his daughter, Mrs. Dare, and a granddaughter, nine -days old, Virginia Dare, the first English child born in the new land. -Then came the Spanish Armada to conquer England, and the long war with -Spain. Nobody went to succor the little band of exiles on Roanoke -Island for three years, and when they did, the settlement was -obliterated, the hundred colonists and little Virginia Dare had -disappeared, and no tidings of them were ever obtained. Thus perished -Raleigh's colony; and, his means being exhausted, he was discouraged -and sent no more expeditions out to America. His enterprise failed in -making a permanent settlement, but it gave two priceless gifts to -Europe. The returning Governor took back to England the potato, which -Raleigh planted on his Irish estate and which has proved the salvation -of old Erin, and also the Virginia tobacco, which he taught the people -to smoke, and the fragrant weed became the solace of the world. - -No further attempts at colonization were made until the seventeenth -century, when new grants were issued, and the country was named -Carolina in honor of King Charles I. The Atlantic Coast south of the -Chesapeake Bay entrance is low and bordered by sand beaches, which for -most of the distance in front of North Carolina are far eastward of -the mainland, with broad sounds and river estuaries between. These -long and narrow beaches protrude in some cases a hundred miles into -the ocean and form dangerous shoals, the extensive Albemarle and -Pamlico Sounds being enclosed by them, the former stretching fifty -miles and the latter seventy-five miles into the land. Out in front of -Pamlico Sound projects the shoulder of Cape Hatteras into the -Atlantic, the outer point of a low, sandy island, with shoals -extending far beyond it, and marked by the great beacon of this -dangerous coast, a flashing light one hundred and ninety feet high. -Here is the principal storm factory of the southern coast, noted for -cyclonic disturbances and dreaded by the mariner. Upon the outer -Diamond Shoals the Government has long tried in vain to erect a -lighthouse. A lightship is kept there, but is frequently blown from -her moorings and drifts ashore. The Gulf Stream, coming with warm and -speedy current up from Florida, is here diverged out into the ocean by -the shoulder of Hatteras; and, similarly, the whirling West India -cyclones of enormous area come along with their resistless energy, -destroying everything in their paths. In the terrific hurricane of the -autumn of 1899 a wind velocity of one hundred and sixty miles an hour -was reached momentarily, and the anemometer at Hatteras was blown down -after having recorded a velocity of one hundred and twenty miles. The -actual force exerted by one of these great cyclones in its work of -devastation, which uproots trees, demolishes buildings and strews the -coast with wrecks, has been calculated as equalling one thousand -million horse-power. - - -WILMINGTON AND FORT FISHER. - -The interior of North Carolina adjoining the Sounds is largely swamp -land, and the broad belt of forest, chiefly pines, which parallels the -coast all along the Atlantic seaboard. Through this region the railway -extends southward from Virginia past Weldon to Wilmington, an -uninteresting route among the swamps and pine lands, showing sparse -settlement and poor agriculture, the wood paths exhibiting an -occasional ox-team or a stray horseman going home with his supplies -from the cross-roads store, a typical representative of the -"tar-heels of Carolina." The railway crosses the deep valley of -Roanoke River, and then over the Tar and Neuse Rivers, traversing the -extensive district that provides the world's greatest supply of naval -stores--the tar, pitch, turpentine, rosin and timber that are so -largely shipped out of the Cape Fear River from Wilmington. This is -the chief city of North Carolina, having about twenty thousand people, -and is located on the Cape Fear River twenty-six miles from its mouth. -The city spreads along the eastern shore upon the peninsula between it -and the ocean. The first settlement antedates the Revolution, when the -inhabitants, who were sturdy patriots, drove out the royal Governor -and made Fort Johnson, at the mouth of the river, an American -stronghold. Upon the secession of the Carolinas in 1860-61 this fort -was occupied by the Confederates and replaced by the larger work on -Federal Point, between the river and the sea, known as Fort Fisher. -Owing to the peculiar location and ease of entrance, the Cape Fear -River became famous in the Civil War as a haven for blockade-runners, -the effective defense made by Fort Fisher fully protecting this -traffic. As the Union blockade of the Southern harbors became more -completely effective with the progress of the war, this finally was -about the only port that could be entered, and an enormous traffic was -kept up between Wilmington and Nassau, on the British island of New -Providence, in the Bahamas, not far away, some three hundred fleet -foreign steamships safely running the blockade into Cape Fear River -during 1863 and 1864. The notoriety of this traffic, from which -enormous profits were made, became world-wide, and it was decided late -in 1864 that Fort Fisher had to be captured, in order to make the -Southern blockade entirely effective. A joint land and naval attack -was made by General Butler and Admiral Porter in December, 1864, but -they were obliged to retire without seriously damaging the fort. Then -General Butler ineffectively attempted to blow up the fort by -exploding a powder-boat near it. Finally a new expedition was landed -in January, 1865, under General Terry, and in cooperation with the -navy, which made a fierce bombardment, they captured the fort on the -15th, after severe loss, the works being partially destroyed the -following day by the accidental explosion of the powder magazine. This -capture ended the blockade-running at Wilmington, and had much to do -with precipitating the fall of Richmond in the following April. - - - [Illustration: _On the Ashley, near Charleston, S. C._] - -CHARLESTON AND FORT SUMTER. - -The railway from Wilmington to the South at first goes westward -through a region largely composed of swamps, and then entering South -Carolina turns southward past Florence to Charleston. The country is a -variation of pine barrens and morass, sparsely inhabited, but raising -much cotton, with many bales brought to the stations for shipment. -There is a much larger population of blacks than of whites. -Charleston, the metropolis of South Carolina, is an active seaport -with sixty-five thousand inhabitants, having a good export trade in -cotton, timber, naval stores, rice, fruits and phosphate rock, of -which there are extensive deposits on Ashley River nearby. It is a -low-lying city, built upon a peninsula between the Ashley and Cooper -Rivers, just inland from the ocean, and having a good harbor. Its many -wooden houses are varied by more pretentious ones of brick and stone, -but there is an air of decadence produced by the traces still -remaining of the earthquake of 1886, which destroyed the greater part -of the buildings and killed many people. The dwelling architecture of -Charleston presents the tropical features of open verandas, spacious -porticos and broad windows looking out upon gardens in which the -palmetto tree grows, typical of South Carolina, the "Palmetto State." -At the point of the peninsula between the rivers is the Battery, a -park and popular promenade overlooking the harbor, with Fort Sumter -down on its little shoal-like island, seen as a small dark streak upon -the distant horizon. The first settlements in this part of South -Carolina were made on the west bank of Ashley River, but the town, -which had been named in honor of King Charles II., in 1680 was -transferred to its present site. Charleston was prominent in the -Revolution, its troops under Colonel Moultrie repelling a British -attack upon Sullivan's Island in 1776; but the city was captured by -Sir Henry Clinton in 1780 after an obstinate defense. Before the Civil -War it was the chief cotton-shipping port of America, though it is now -surpassed by the Gulf ports and by Savannah. The great memory in the -city of that time of its greatest prosperity is of the apostle of -"State Rights," the South Carolina statesman, John C. Calhoun, who -died in 1850. His statue stands in Citadel Square, and his grave is in -St. Philip's churchyard. - -The broad estuary of Charleston harbor is completely landlocked, and -has an entrance from the sea about a mile wide. On the southern side -is Fort Moultrie, which was enlarged from the battery that repulsed -the British attack in 1776, on Sullivan's Island, this now being a -favorite summer resort, and dotted with wooden cottages facing the -sea. Just behind the fort is the grave of Osceola, the famous chief of -the Seminoles, who long carried on war in the Florida everglades, but -was captured and brought a prisoner to Fort Moultrie, dying in 1838. -Fort Sumter, three miles below Charleston, stands upon a shoal of -about three acres, out in mid-channel, which is protected from the -water encroachment by stone rip-rapping. It was faced with brick -during the Civil War, but the work has since been modernized. At the -opening of the war, Major Anderson occupied this fort with the small -force of seventy-five men, which, after the secession of South -Carolina from the Union, December 20, 1860, had been transferred -thither from Fort Moultrie, the State troops immediately seizing -Moultrie and all the other forts around the harbor, and the Federal -public buildings in Charleston. They also constructed new batteries on -Morris Island, the nearest land to Fort Sumter. On January 9, 1861, -the Government at Washington sent the steamer "Star of the West" into -the harbor with provisions and a reinforcement of two hundred and -fifty troops. The first shot of the Civil War was on that day fired at -her from Morris Island, and the ship being struck by this and -subsequent shots, her commander abandoned the project and withdrew. -There was a good deal of negotiation and delay afterwards, the -Government, on April 8th, finally determining to provision Fort -Sumter, as Anderson's supplies would be exhausted on the 15th, and so -informing the Governor of South Carolina. On the 11th, General -Beauregard, commanding the State forces, demanded the surrender of the -fort, which was refused. Major Anderson was notified early next -morning that the fort would be fired upon in one hour, and cannonading -began at 4.20 A.M. on the 12th. A fleet of vessels appeared off the -harbor at noon with provisions, exchanged signals with the fort, but -made no attempt to land, and on the 13th terms of surrender were -arranged by which Major Anderson and his little command marched out on -the 14th with the honors of war, saluting the American flag with -fifty guns. This bombardment and evacuation set the North in a blaze -of patriotic excitement and began the Civil War. - -The naval forces of the United States attacked Fort Sumter in April, -1863, but were repulsed, the monitor "Keokuk" being so seriously -injured that she afterwards sunk. Subsequently, the Union troops -landed on Morris Island, erected batteries, and in August partly -destroyed the works at Sumter; and its bombardment, and also that of -Charleston, continued with but brief intermission till the war closed -in 1865. On Morris Island was set up the original "long-range gun," -General Gillmore's "Swamp Angel" now adorning a drinking-fountain at -Trenton, New Jersey; and its ability, until it unfortunately burst, to -shoot its bolts into Charleston, then regarded as an almost impossible -distance to carry a projectile, attracted the attention of gunnery -experts throughout the world. Its conspicuous mark was the white spire -of St. Michael's Church up in the beleaguered city. This famous old -church, dating from 1752, was struck six times during these attacks -and seriously damaged. It was also partly demolished by a cyclone in -1885, and nearly destroyed by the earthquake of 1886; but it has been -since restored, and its prominent steeple commands a good view. -Charleston, however, seems to have always been used to this sort of -thing. Its statue of William Pitt in front of the City Hall had -the right arm broken off by a British cannon-shot in 1780. But if the -city is thus somewhat in dilapidation, its grand development of -foliage and flowers gives a compensation. Everywhere in the suburbs -and in the streets and gardens are seen magnificent azaleas, -magnolias, camellias, and the famous live oak, which flourish in -luxuriance and add to the charms of this restful South Carolina -metropolis. - - -THE CITY OF SAVANNAH. - -The seacoast of South Carolina and Georgia is composed largely of -deeply indented bays, with many islands, tortuous bayous, and a -labyrinth of water ways bordered by dense vegetation. Southward from -Charleston harbor to the Savannah River many creeks provide a system -of inland navigation and form fertile islands. There are two capacious -Sounds, St. Helena and Port Royal, the latter being one of the finest -harbors in the world, and the rendezvous of the American North -Atlantic naval squadron when in these waters. This was the place of -first landing of the original South Carolina colonists before they -went to the Ashley River, and its chief town now is Beaufort, on St. -Helena Island. These coast islands raise the famous "sea-island -cotton," and the whole lowland region produces prolific crops of rice. -The adjacent land is generally swampy, and its chief industry, outside -of cultivating the fields, is the working of the extensive phosphate -deposits, which are manufactured into fertilizers. The railway, -largely constructed on piles, passes through much marsh and morass, -crosses swift-running dirty streams, and over the swamps and among the -pine timber, varied by the oak, bay tree and laurel, which the humid -atmosphere has hung with garlands of sombre gray moss and clusters of -ivy and other creeping plants. The festooned moss, overrunning and -often destroying the foliage of the trees, gives the scene a weird and -ghostly appearance. The railway route is bordered by an apparently -almost impenetrable jungle, the few settlements are widely separated, -and population is sparse, seeming to be chiefly negroes dressed in -ancient-looking clothing ornamented with patches. The few whites who -appear are bilious and yellowish, their complexions and garb being -alike of the butternut hue, while both races seem to talk the same -dialect. Thus moving farther southward, the Carolina "tar-heels" are -replaced by the "crackers" and "butternuts," looking as if they had -been rolled for a generation in the clayey soils drained by the -Edisto, Coosawhatchie and Savannah Rivers and their neighboring -streams, and who, farther inland, are the "clay-eaters" of Georgia. -Then crossing the Savannah River, the route is upon the level lowlands -down its Georgia bank, and into the city of Savannah, arriving amid a -vast collection of rosin and pitch barrels, cotton bales and timber. - -Savannah--derived from the Spanish word _sabana_, a "meadow or -plain"--is known popularly as the "Forest City," and is built upon a -bluff along the river shore, eighteen miles from the sea. It has fifty -thousand people and a large export trade in naval stores, rice, timber -and cotton, in the latter export being second only to New Orleans. It -received great impetus after the Civil War, owing to its excellent -railway connections with the interior, and is now the chief port of -the Southern Atlantic coast. The city extends upon a level sandy -plain, stretching back from the bluff shore along the river, has broad -streets crossing at right angles, with small parks at the -intersections, and many trees border the streets and fill the parks, -so that it is fairly embowered in foliage, thus presenting an -attractive and novel appearance. This adornment makes Savannah the -most beautiful city of the coast--the oak, palmetto and magnolia, with -the holly, orange, creeping ivy and clustering vines, setting the -buildings in a framework of delicious green. The business quarter is -along the bluff, where the ships moor alongside the storehouses, which -have their upper stories on a level with the busy Bay Street at its -top. Much of the present beauty of the city is due to the foresight of -its founder who laid out the plan--General Oglethorpe, who selected -this place in 1733 for the capital of his Province of Georgia, the -youngest of the original thirteen colonies. - -General James Edward Oglethorpe was a native of London and an officer -in the British army, who, being of philanthropic tendencies, obtained -a grant of the Province from King George for the purpose of providing -an asylum for the poor debtors of England and a home for the -Protestants of all nations. After founding the city and receiving a -colony of Protestants from Salzburg, he visited England and brought -out John and Charles Wesley in 1735, and got George Whitefield to come -and preach to the colonists in 1737. War breaking out with Spain, he -attacked Florida, carrying his invasion to the gates of St. Augustine, -but was repulsed. He returned to England in 1743, but though he lived -until 1785 as a retired general upon half-pay, he never revisited -America. The British captured Savannah in the Revolution, and repulsed -a combined French and American attempt to recapture it in 1779. In -this attack Count Pulaski fell, and the spot, now Monterey Square, -near the centre of the city, is marked by the Pulaski Monument, one of -the noblest shafts in America. Count Pulaski is the patron saint of -Savannah, and Fort Pulaski, named in his honor, guards the Savannah -River entrance from the sea. During the Civil War, however, this fort -was practically useless, as it was captured by the Unionists in 1862, -and Tybee Roads, the harbor at the entrance, was hermetically sealed -throughout the war by the blockading fleet. General Sherman's -triumphant march through Georgia ended in December, 1864, at -Savannah, and his headquarters are still pointed out, opposite Madison -Square. Savannah has a fine pleasure-ground in Forsyth Park, with its -wealth of trees and ornamental shrubbery, and the adjoining Parade -Ground containing the Confederate Soldiers' Monument. The favorite -route to the southern suburbs is the famous Thunderbolt Shell Road -leading to Thunderbolt River, and noted for its avenues of live oaks -draped with Spanish moss. Here is also the favorite burial-place, the -Bonaventure Cemetery, where the graves and tombstones are laid out -alongside passages embowered by live oaks, their wide-stretching, -gaunt and angular limbs being richly garlanded with the gray moss and -encircled by creeping ivy. The long vista views under these sombre -archways have an elfish look, peculiarly appropriate for a city of the -dead, and it would take little imagination to conjure up the spirits -of the departed and see them wandering beneath these canopies of -shrouds. - - -THE CITY OF JACKSONVILLE. - -Southward from Savannah, the railway route to Florida renews the -monotonous landscape of woods and swamps. For ninety miles it goes in -an almost straight line southwest through the pine belt of Southern -Georgia, crossing the Ogeechee and Altamaha Rivers to Waycross, and -then, turning to the southeast, proceeds in another almost straight -line for about an equal distance towards the coast, and crosses St. -Mary's River into Florida. It traverses the edge of the noted -Okifenokee Swamp of Georgia, the Indian "weaving, shaking, water," a -moist and mushy region of mystery and legend, drained by the poetic -Suwanee, the Indian "Echo river," which has been made the theme of a -favorite melody. This stream flows through Florida into the Gulf of -Mexico, while on the eastern side the extensive swamp overflows into -the winding St. Mary's River leading to the Atlantic. To the -southward, the pine woods of Florida grow out of a sandy soil nearly -as level as a floor, in which almost every depression and fissure -seems filled with water, and the balsamic odors of these pines, -combined with the mildness of the winter climate, give an indication -of the attractions which make Florida so popular as a resort for the -Northern people. The route finally reaches the broad St. John's River -at the Florida metropolis, Jacksonville, a Yankee city in the South, -bearing the name of the famous President, General Andrew Jackson, and -having thirty thousand population, largely of Northern birth. This is -the centre of the railway system of Florida and of most of the -business of the State, having a large export trade in timber, naval -stores, phosphates, oranges and other Florida products. To the -visitor, probably the first most forcible impression is made by the -free growth of oranges along the streets and in the house gardens. The -city stands upon the northern and outer bank of a magnificent bend of -St. John's River, this noble stream, which flows northward from -Southern Florida, being a mile wide, and sweeping around to the -eastward at Jacksonville to reach the sea about twenty-five miles -beyond, its navigation having been improved by dredging and -constructing jetties to maintain a channel through the bar at the -mouth. The business section is near the shore, and the railways come -down to the wharves; while, as the curving river stretches away to the -southward, the bank is lined with rows of fine suburban villas, -occupied by the business men who have built their comfortable homes -amid the oranges, oleanders, magnolias and banana trees. The river has -low tree-clad shores, and far over on the opposite bank are more -villas and orange groves. - -Jacksonville is well supplied with hotels and lodging-houses, which -accommodate the crowds of winter visitors from the North, and it -spreads into various suburban villages reached by steamboats and hard -shell roads. It is the great _entrepot_ for Florida, standing at the -northern verge, the salubrious and equable climate being the -attraction, for frost is rare, and the winters are usually clear and -dry and give a most magnificent atmosphere. Rows of splendid oaks line -the streets, and form fine archways of green, giving a delicious -shade. Besides the orange, the alligator is also a Jacksonville -attraction, live ones being kept as pets, little ones sent northward -in boxes for gifts, and dead ones of all sizes prepared for -ornaments. This reptile is the type and emblem of Florida; his skin -and teeth are worked into fantastic shapes, and his curious bones and -formation do duty in the make-up of many "Florida curiosities." In -fact, outside of the timber, which is most prolific, the best known -Florida crops are the alligator and the orange. Although frosts have -killed many in late years, yet the product of the orange trees is -still large, Southern Florida containing the most famous orange -groves, especially along the Indian River and on the lakes of the -upper St. John's River, where they are usually planted on the southern -borders of the lakes, so that the frost is killed by the winds -carrying it over the water, and thus the orange trees are protected. - - -THE LAND OF FLOWERS. - -In the early sixteenth century there flourished a valiant Spaniard of -noble birth, a grandee of Aragon, who had taken part in the conquest -of Grenada, Don Juan Ponce de Leon. He had accompanied Columbus on one -of his American voyages, and in 1510 was appointed Governor of Puerto -Rico. The bold Don Juan had become somewhat worn by a life of -dangerous buccaneering and romantic adventure, and being rather -advanced in years he was losing the attractiveness which had long -added charms to his gallantries. From the Indians of Puerto Rico he -heard of an island off to the northwestward, which they called Bimini, -and he listened with wonder and constantly increasing interest to the -tales they told of an extraordinary and miraculous spring which it -contained that would restore youth to the aged and health to the -decrepit--the "Fountain of Perpetual Youth." They described it as -being in a region of surpassing beauty, and said there were found -abundant gold and many slaves in this land of promise. The rugged old -warrior was fired with the prospect of restored youth, and soon -secured from the king a grant of Bimini. In March, 1513, he sailed -with a large expedition from Puerto Rico, discovered some of the -Bahama Islands, coasted along the mainland to latitude 30 deg. 8' north, -and on Easter Sunday, April 8th, landed a short distance south of St. -John's River and took possession, calling the country Florida, from -"Pasqua Florida," the Spanish name for the day. He did not find the -magic spring, however, but he did discover a fairy scene, a land -filled with a profusion of fruits and flowers. Though he subsequently -diligently searched for it, he unfortunately never found the -miraculous fountain. He explored the Gulf Coast, and returned to the -quest again in 1521, when he got into quarrels with the Indians, was -mortally wounded in a combat, and went back to Cuba to die. - -Another Spanish grandee, fired with zeal for gold and conquest, -appeared upon the scene somewhat later in the sixteenth century. -Ferdinand de Soto, a native of Jerez, whose only heritage was his -sword and shield, had accompanied various expeditions to Darien and -Nicaragua, and in 1532 joined Pizarro in the conquest of Peru, where -he acquired great wealth, with which he returned to Spain. Soon after, -being anxious for more adventure, he was appointed Governor of Cuba -and Florida, and given a commission to explore and settle the Spanish -possessions in the latter country, then including the whole northern -coast of the Gulf of Mexico. In May, 1539, he sailed from Havana with -a large fleet and six hundred men, coasted around Florida and landed -at Tampa Bay on the Gulf side, where his explorations ashore began in -July. Fabulous stories had been told him of the wealth of the country -by those who had been there, and De Soto's plan was to go everywhere -in search of gold. He captured Indians for guides, and found a -Spaniard, Juan Ortiz, whom they had taken captive several years -before, but who was now living with them as a friend, knew their -language and became interpreter. Then De Soto, by his aid, began a -most difficult exploration, advancing through thick woods, north and -east, amid tangled undergrowth, over bogs and marshes, crossing rivers -and lakes, fighting the Indians who resented his cruelties, for he -made them his slaves and bearers of burdens, tortured and killed them -if they resisted. But he found no gold, though he pushed steadily -onward, and turning westward in the quest, his numbers growing -smaller and the survivors weaker under the weight of their privations. -He travelled a long distance, crossing Northern Florida and Georgia -into the Carolinas, and probably to Tennessee, descending the Alabama -River, and having a battle with the Indians near Mobile Bay in -October, 1540; then turning again northward, crossing the Mississippi -River, which he discovered in May, 1541, near the Chickasaw Bluffs, -exploring it nearly to the mouth of the Missouri, and then turning -southward he sailed down the river, and finally died of fever near the -mouth of Red River in May, 1542. During the three years' wanderings -nearly half his force had perished in battle, or of privation and -disease. The Indians were in awe of him and believed him immortal, and -a panic therefore seized his surviving followers, who feared -annihilation if the savages discovered that De Soto was dead. So they -quietly buried him at night, from a boat in midstream, sinking the -corpse in the great Father of Waters. Discouraged and almost hopeless, -his followers managed to build some small vessels, and the next year -arrived safely in Mexico. - -Neither of these expeditions succeeded in colonizing Florida, but they -left a feeling of hatred among the Indians, caused by the Spanish -cruelties, which always afterwards existed. In 1564 some French -Huguenots, led by Rene de Loudonniere, attempted making a settlement -at the mouth of St. John's River, and built Fort Caroline there. News -of this reached Spain, and in 1565 another colonization expedition was -sent out under Don Pedro Menendez d'Aviles, which set sail from Cadiz, -and on St. Augustine's Day, August 28th, landed not far from where -Ponce de Leon had made his first invasion, and founded a colony which -he named St. Augustine, in honor of his day of arrival. As soon as -Menendez was established on shore he attacked the Huguenots at St. -John's River, and hanged such of them as had escaped being killed in -the battle, declaring that he did this because they were Protestants. -Some of them who had been away from the fort at the time were -afterwards shipwrecked near St. Augustine, and these he also captured -and put to death. The French Fort Caroline was then garrisoned by the -Spaniards, its name changed to Fort San Mateo, and they also fortified -with redoubts both sides of the river entrance. The story of the -atrocities of Menendez was received with indignation in France, but -the King, controlled by intrigue, dared do nothing, such was his fear -of the power of Spain. - -Full vengeance was afterwards taken, however. Dominique de Gourgues, a -French gentleman of Mont-de-Marsan, who hated the Spaniards with a -mortal hatred, took up the quarrel, sold his inheritance, borrowed -money, and equipped a small expedition of three vessels and one -hundred and eighty men. He concealed his real object, and sailing for -some time through the tropical seas, finally came to Cuba, when he -first made known his purpose to his followers. He landed at St. Mary's -River, opening communication with the Indians, and a joint attack upon -the Spaniards to the southward was arranged. In May, 1568, the fort -and redoubts at St. John's River were stormed and taken, a few -Spaniards being captured alive, all the rest having been slain in the -combat. Gourgues was shown nearby the trees whereon Menendez had -hanged the French prisoners when he first took the fort, having placed -over them the inscription "Not as Frenchmen, but as Lutherans." He -hanged his Spanish prisoners on the same trees, and over them was also -nailed an inscription, burned with a hot iron on a tablet of pine, -"Not as Spaniards, but as Traitors, Robbers and Murderers." Gourgues' -mission of vengeance was fulfilled. His Indian allies demolished the -fort and the redoubts at the mouth of the river. He then sailed home -with his expedition, landing at Rochelle on the day of Pentecost, -where the Huguenots greeted him with all honor, and whilst he was -scorned at court and lived for some years in obscurity, Queen -Elizabeth showed him great favor; and as he was going overland to join -the army of Portugal to once more fight his enemies, the Spaniards, he -fell ill at Tours and died. The French made no more attempts at -settlement in Florida, and the Spaniards afterwards possessed it, -though frequently being at war with the English. Spain finally ceded -the "Land of Flowers" to the United States, which took final -possession in 1821. - - -SOME FLORIDA PECULIARITIES. - -Florida is a strange region, yet most attractive. The traveller -regards its surface as mainly a monotonous level of forest and swamp, -with fruit and floral embellishments, but it in fact rises by an -almost insensible ascent from the coast towards the interior, where -there is a central summit ridge all along the peninsula of about three -hundred feet elevation, covered with pine woods. Most of the surface, -however, is but a few feet above the sea-level, these "flatlands," as -they are called, being grass-grown savannahs, pine woods, swamps and -cabbage-palm thickets. The southern part of the peninsula is the -region of the everglades, which have been formed by successive dykes -of coral, built by the industrious little insect long ago. The upper -part of this region is occupied by the extensive but shallow waters of -Lake Okeechobee, which merges insensibly into the everglades south and -east, the Seminoles calling this grass-grown and spongy region, which -is still the abode of some remnants of the tribe, Pa-ha-yo-kee, -meaning "much grass in water." These everglades are penetrated in all -directions by tortuous water channels of slight depth; and at frequent -intervals in the whole district there are wooded islands possessing -fertile soils and covered with dense tropical vegetation. These -islands are said to have been surrounded by the sea in bygone ages, -and they then stood in the same relation to the mainland as do the -present Southern Florida reefs and keys. Wide tracts of cypress swamp -separate the everglades from the Gulf of Mexico, while in Southern -Florida they approach within a few miles of the Atlantic Coast, being -separated by an intervening dyke of coral, crossed by frequent streams -of rapid current, for the everglades are far from being stagnant -swamps. There are also many other extensive swamps in the State. - -The Florida seacoast is usually protected by sand beaches which are -quite hard, and are separated from the mainland by interior lagoons. -The mangrove and the coral, constantly growing, are ever encroaching, -however, on the sea-waters, and thus Florida seems to have been -constructed. The country is full of water courses, lakes and springs, -some of the latter being regarded as among the most remarkable in the -world, the famous Silver Spring near Ocala being estimated as -discharging three hundred millions of gallons daily. There are -countless springs along the coasts, and one of these bursts up in the -sea near St. Augustine, two miles off shore, with a torrent so -vigorous that the ocean waves break over the column of fresh water as -if it were a sunken reef. Scientific investigators are amazed at the -vast amounts of water everywhere visible and discharged from these -springs, and with only the narrow and low peninsula for a watershed, -the problem as to where the vast water supply comes from baffles -solution. Some of the Florida lakes are subject to remarkable -fluctuations of level, and one of them, Lake Jackson, ran suddenly dry -at the time of the Charleston earthquake in 1886, but after a few -weeks the water began returning, and it soon resumed its natural -proportions. - - -CUMBERLAND SOUND. - -The memory of the Duke of Cumberland, son of King George II., the -victor of the battle of Culloden, in Scotland, where he defeated the -Pretender in 1746, is preserved in America in the name of Cumberland -Sound, the finest harbor on the Southern Atlantic Coast. St. Mary's -River, coming out of Okifenokee swamp to make the northern boundary of -Florida, flows an erratic course, boxing the compass in every -direction until it finally heads eastward and debouches in Cumberland -Sound, among a group of islands forming a large landlocked harbor. -This river and sound, the boundary between Georgia and Florida, were, -prior to the Revolution, a disputed frontier between the English and -the Spaniards. To the northward of the entrance from the sea is -Cumberland Island in Georgia, then comes Jekyll Island, with its -magnificent club-house and elaborate cottages, and then St. Simon's -Bay, having as its chief port the busy lumber-shipping town of -Brunswick. To the southward of the Cumberland entrance is Amelia -Island in Florida. The sound behind Amelia and Cumberland Islands is a -magnificent roadstead, capable of floating at safe anchorage an -enormous fleet. Amelia Island is a long, narrow sand bank with much -foliage upon it, stretching about fourteen miles down the Florida -coast to Nassau Sound. On the sea front of this island is one of the -finest sand beaches on the Atlantic. Behind it is the arm of the sea -known as Amelia River, and the port of Fernandina, thirty-six miles -northeast of Jacksonville, having at the point of the island, guarding -the entrance to its harbor, old Fort Clinch, a superannuated -brick-work battery, formerly of great importance, but now of little -use, though it was somewhat strengthened to meet the exigencies of the -recent Spanish War. - -The French Huguenots first came along here and settled, as they did at -the St. John's River entrance, and they called the island Garde. They -found here a powerful Indian tribe, whose chief, the "Cacique of -Garde," their historian described as "handsome and noble," and his -queen as "beautiful and modest," and the same authority says they had -"five handsome daughters." The French were engaged in desultory -quarrels with the Spaniards south of them at St. Augustine, and the -young gallants of the colony, in the intervals of the warfare, -alternately courted and jilted the Indian maidens, the result being a -savage attack and massacre; and finally, between Indian and Spanish -enmity, the settlement disappeared. But the English, made of sterner -stuff, ultimately came along, settling Georgia, and giving British -names to the islands, the rivers and the Sound, which they still -retain. For a long time this was disputed territory between the -English and the Spaniards, the latter claiming everything northward to -Carolina. General Oglethorpe marched through here to attack St. -Augustine, and in 1763 the British held Amelia Island, extending the -little fort to almost its present proportions, and laying out a town -behind it, while to the southward the Countess of Egmont established -an indigo plantation, which flourished for a brief period. Spain -ultimately got the island, and it came into American possession with -Florida in 1821. A little town with sandy streets, a pretty park, much -foliage, delicious air bringing the balsam of the pines and the tonic -of the sea, and hotels accommodating the influx of winter visitors, -make up the Fernandina of to-day. Its beach on the ocean front, more -than a mile away, is one of the finest in existence, hard as a floor, -level and broad, stretching as far as eye can see, and having a grand -surf booming upon it. - -On Cumberland Island is the estate of Dungeness. General Nathaniel -Greene of Rhode Island, one of Washington's most trusted officers, was -the commander of the Revolutionary armies in the South in 1780-81 -which drove the British out of that section, gained the victory of -Cowpens in South Carolina, and compelled the withdrawal of Cornwallis -to Yorktown, which ended in his surrender. After the close of the war, -in gratitude for his great services, the people of Georgia presented -him with this estate of about ten thousand acres. He made it his home -for a time, but it afterwards passed away from his family, and being -neglected, the old coquina stone mansion was burnt. The house has -since been reconstructed, and a picturesque avenue of moss-hung live -oaks a mile long stretches over the island near it to the sea. In a -little cemetery on the estate are the graves of General Greene's widow -and daughter. Here is also the grave of "Light Horse Harry" of the -Revolution (the father of General Robert E. Lee), who died abroad in -1818. He had visited and loved Dungeness, and requested to be buried -there. Oaks and palmettos embower these modest graves, which are -carefully preserved. - - -ANCIENT ST. AUGUSTINE. - -St. Augustine, thirty-six miles southeast of Jacksonville, on the -seacoast, is the oldest city in the United States, founded by Menendez -in 1565, and existing to this day with the characteristics of a -Spanish town of the sixteenth century, which have been also reproduced -in the architecture of most of the newer buildings. A small inlet from -the ocean, about fifteen miles south of the mouth of St. John's -River, stretches its arms north and south, the latter arm, called -Matanzas River, seeking the sea again about eighteen miles below. It -thus forms Anastasia Island, sheltering the harbor like a breakwater, -and behind it the city is built, being protected by a sea-wall nearly -a mile long, built of coquina or shell-stone. Another arm of the sea, -called San Sebastian River, is a short distance inland, so that the -town site is really upon a peninsula. About five thousand people -reside permanently in St. Augustine, a few of Spanish descent, and -more of them the offspring of a colony of Minorcans who came in 1769, -but in winter the Northern visitors to the palatial hotels swell the -population to over ten thousand. The town is built on a level sandy -plain, and the older streets are narrow, being only a few feet wide -and without sidewalks. The projecting balconies of some of the ancient -houses almost touch those opposite. The old streets are paved with -coquina and the old houses are built of it, this curious -shell-limestone, quarried on Anastasia Island, hardening upon exposure -to the air. A few streets running north and south, crossed by others -at right angles, and a broader front street bordered by the sea-wall -which makes a fine promenade, compose the town. This sea-wall of -coquina is capped with granite, and was built after the American -occupation of the city. At its northern end is Fort Marion and at the -southern end St. Francis Barracks, the United States military post, -so named because it occupies the site of the old Convent of St. -Francis, having some of its coquina walls incorporated in the present -structure. The harbor in front, which in past centuries sheltered so -many Spanish fleets and those of Spanish enemies as well, is now -chiefly devoted to yachting. - -When Menendez and his Spaniards first landed they built a wooden fort -commanding the harbor entrance, surrounded by pine trees, which they -named San Juan de Pinos. This was afterwards replaced by Fort San -Marco, constructed of coquina, which was nearly a hundred years -building, and was finished in 1756. Upon the transfer of Florida to -the United States this became Fort Marion. It is a well-preserved -specimen of the military architecture of the eighteenth century, built -on Vauban's system, covering about four acres, with bastions at the -corners, each protected by a watch-tower, and is surrounded by a moat, -the walls being twenty-one feet high. The fort is in reasonably good -preservation, and is said to have been constructed mainly by the labor -of Indians. It took so long to build and cost so much under the -wasteful Spanish system that one sovereign wrote that it had almost -cost its weight in gold; yet it was regarded then as supremely -important to be finished, being the key to the Spanish possession of -Florida. Over the sally-port at the drawbridge are carved the Spanish -arms and an inscription recording the completion of the fort in 1756, -when Ferdinand VI. was King of Spain and Don Hereda Governor of -Florida. It mounted one hundred of the small guns of those days, and -the interior is a square parade ground, surrounded by large casemates. -Upon each side of the casemate opposite the sally-port is a niche for -holy water, and at the farther end the Chapel. Dungeons and -subterranean passages abound, of which ghostly tales are told. This -fort is the most interesting relic of the ancient city, a picturesque -place, with charms even in its dilapidation. - -There are other quaint structures in this curious old town. A gray -gateway about ten feet wide, flanked by tall square towers, marks the -northern entrance to the city, the ditch from the fort passing in -front of it. In one of the streets is the palace of the Spanish -Governors, since changed into a post-office. The official centre of -the city is a public square, the Plaza de la Constitucion, having a -monument commemorating the Spanish Liberal Constitution of 1812, and -also a Confederate Soldiers' Monument. This square fronts on the -sea-wall, and alongside it and stretching westward is the Alameda, -known as King Street, leading to the group of grand hotels recently -constructed in Spanish and Moorish style, which have made modern St. -Augustine so famous. These are the Ponce de Leon, the Alcazar and the -Cordova, with the Casino, adjoined by spacious and beautiful gardens. -These buildings reproduce all types of the Hispano-Moorish -architecture, with many suggestions from the Alhambra. The Ponce de -Leon, the largest, is three hundred and eighty by five hundred and -twenty feet, enclosing an open court, and its towers rise above the -red-tiled roofs to a height of one hundred and sixty-five feet, the -adornments in colors being very effective. To the southward of the -town, adjoining the barracks, is the military cemetery, where a -monument and three white pyramids tell the horrid story of the Dade -massacre during the Seminole War. Major Dade, a gallant officer, and -one hundred and seven men, were ambushed and massacred by eight -hundred Indians in December, 1835, and their remains afterwards -brought here and interred under the pyramids. Opposite the barracks is -what is claimed to be the oldest house in the United States, occupied -by Franciscan monks from 1565 to 1580, and afterwards a dwelling. It -has been restored, and contains a collection of historical relics. - -St. Augustine has had a chequered history. In 1586, Queen Elizabeth's -naval hero, Sir Francis Drake, sailing all over the world to fight -Spaniards, attacked and plundered the town and burnt the greater part -of it. Then for nearly a century the Indians, pirates, French, English -and neighboring Georgians and Carolinians made matters lively for the -harried inhabitants. In 1763 the British came into possession, but -they ceded it back to Spain twenty years later, the town then -containing about three hundred householders and nine hundred negroes. -It became American in 1821, and was an important military post during -the subsequent Seminole War, which continued several years. It was -early captured by the Union forces during the Civil War, and was a -valuable stronghold for them. This curious old town has many -traditions that tell of war and massacre and the horrible cruelties of -the Spanish Inquisition, the remains of cages in which prisoners were -starved to death being shown in the fort. Its best modern story, -however, is told of the escape of Coa-coo-chee, the Seminole chief, -whose adventurous spirit and savage nature gained him the name of the -"Wild Cat." The ending of the Seminole War was the signing of a treaty -by the older chiefs agreeing to remove west of the Mississippi. -Coa-coo-chee, with other younger chiefs, opposed this and renewed the -conflict. He was ultimately captured and taken to Fort Marion. -Feigning sickness, he was removed into a casemate giving him air, -there being an aperture two feet high by nine inches wide in the wall -about thirteen feet above the floor, and under it a platform five feet -high. Here, while still feigning illness, he became attenuated by -voluntary abstinence from food, and finally one night squeezed himself -through the aperture and dropped to the bottom of the moat, which was -dry. Eluding all the guards, he escaped and rejoined his people. The -flight caused a great sensation, and there was hot pursuit. After some -time he was recaptured, and being taken before General Worth, was used -to compel the remnant of the tribe to remove to the West. Worth told -him if his people were not at Tampa in twenty days he would be killed, -and he was ordered to notify them by Indian runners. He hesitated, but -afterwards yielded, and the runners were given twenty twigs, one to be -broken each day, so they might know when the last one was broken his -life would pay the penalty. In seventeen days the task was -accomplished. The tribe came to Tampa, and the captive was released, -accompanying his warriors to the far West. This ended most of the -Indian troubles in Florida, but some descendants of the Seminoles -still exist in the remote fastnesses of the everglades. - - -THE FLORIDA EAST COAST. - -All along the Atlantic shore of Florida south of St. Augustine are -popular winter resorts, their broad and attractive beaches, fine -climate and prolific tropical vegetation being among the charms that -bring visitors. Ormond is between the ocean front and the pleasant -Halifax River, its picturesque tributary, the Tomoka, being a favorite -resort for picnic parties. A few miles south on the Halifax River is -Daytona, known as the "Fountain City," and having its suburb, "the -City Beautiful," on the opposite bank. New Smyrna, settled by -Minorcan indigo planters in the eighteenth century, is on the northern -arm of Indian River. Here are found some of the ancient Indian shell -mounds that are frequent in Florida, and also the orange groves that -make this region famous. Inland about thirty miles are a group of -pretty lakes, and in the pines at Lake Helen is located the "Southern -Cassadaga," or Spiritualists' Assembly. For more than a hundred and -fifty miles the noted Indian River stretches down the coast of -Florida. It is a long and narrow lagoon, parallel with the ocean, and -is part of the series of lagoons found on the eastern coast almost -continuously for more than three hundred miles from St. Augustine -south to Biscayne Bay, and varying in width from about fifty yards to -six or more miles. They are shallow waters, rarely over twelve feet -deep, and are entered by very shallow inlets from the sea. The Indian -River shores, stretching down to Jupiter Inlet, are lined with -luxuriant vegetation, and the water is at times highly phosphorescent. -Upon the western shore are most of the celebrated Indian River orange -groves whose product is so highly prized. At Titusville, the head of -navigation, where there are about a thousand people, the river is -about, at its widest part, six miles. Twenty miles below, at -Rockledge, it narrows to about a mile in width, washing against the -perpendicular sides of a continuous enclosing ledge of coquina rock, -with pleasant overhanging trees. Here comes in, around an island, its -eastern arm, the Banana River, and to the many orange groves are added -plantations of the luscious pineapple. Various limpid streams flow out -from the everglade region at the westward, and Fort Pierce is the -trading station for that district, to which the remnant of the -Seminoles come to exchange alligator hides, bird plumage and snake -skins for various supplies, not forgetting "fire-water." Below this is -the wide estuary of St. Lucie River and the Jupiter River, with the -lighthouse on the ocean's edge at Jupiter Inlet, the mouth of Indian -River. - -Seventeen miles below this Inlet is Palm Beach, a noted resort, -situated upon the narrow strip of land between the long and narrow -lagoon of Lake Worth and the Atlantic Ocean. Here are the vast Hotel -Royal Poinciana and the Palm Beach Inn, with their cocoanut groves, -which also fringe for miles the pleasant shores of Lake Worth. -Prolific vegetation and every charm that can add to this American -Riviera bring a crowded winter population. The Poinciana is a tree -bearing gorgeous flowers, and the two magnificent hotels, surrounded -by an extensive tropical paradise, are connected by a wide avenue of -palms a half-mile long, one house facing the lake and the other the -ocean. There is not a horse in the settlement, and only one mule, -whose duty is to haul a light summer car between the houses. The -vehicles of Palm Beach are said to be confined to "bicycles, -wheel-chairs and jinrickshas." Off to the westward the distant horizon -is bounded by the mysterious region of the everglades. Far down the -coast the railway terminates at Miami, the southernmost railway -station in the United States, a little town on Miami River, where it -enters the broad expanse of Biscayne Bay, which is separated from the -Atlantic by the first of the long chain of Florida keys. Here are many -fruit and vegetable plantations, and the town, which is a railway -terminal and steamship port for lines to Nassau, Key West and Havana, -is growing. Nassau is but one hundred and seventy-five miles distant -in the Bahamas, off the Southern Florida coast, and has become a -favorite American winter tourist resort. - - -ASCENDING ST. JOHN'S RIVER. - -The St. John's is the great river of Florida, rising in the region of -lakes, swamps and savannahs in the lower peninsula, and flowing -northward four hundred miles to Jacksonville, then turning eastward to -the ocean. It comes through a low and level region, with mostly a -sluggish current; is bordered by dense foliage, and in its northern -portion is a series of lagoons varying in width from one to six miles. -The river is navigable fully two hundred miles above Jacksonville. The -earlier portion of the journey is monotonous, the shores being distant -and the landings made at long piers jutting out over the shallows -from the villages and plantations. At Mandarin is the orange grove -which was formerly the winter home of Harriet Beecher Stowe; Magnolia -amid the pines is a resort for consumptives; and nearby is Green Cove -Springs, having a large sulphur spring of medicinal virtue. In all -directions stretch the pine forests; and the river water, while clear -and sparkling in the sunlight, is colored a dark amber from the swamps -whence it comes. The original Indian name of this river was We-la-ka, -or a "chain of lakes," the literal meaning, in the figurative idea of -the savage, being "the water has its own way." It broadens into -various bays, and at one of these, about seventy-five miles south of -Jacksonville, is the chief town of the upper river, Palatka, having -about thirty-five hundred inhabitants and a much greater winter -population. It is largely a Yankee town, shipping oranges and early -vegetables to the North; and across the river, just above, is one of -the leading orange plantations of Florida--Colonel Hart's, a Vermonter -who came here dying of consumption, but lived to become, in his time, -the leading fruit-grower of the State. Above Palatka the river is -narrower, excepting where it may broaden into a lake; the foliage is -greener, the shores more swampy, the wild-fowl more frequent, and the -cypress tree more general. The young "cypress knees" can be seen -starting up along the swampy edge of the shore, looking like so many -champagne bottles set to cool in the water. The river also becomes -quite crooked, and here is an ancient Spanish and Indian settlement, -well named Welaka, opposite which flows in the weird Ocklawaha River, -the haunt of the alligator and renowned as the crookedest stream on -the continent. - - - [Illustration: _On the Ocklawaha_] - -GOING DOWN THE OCKLAWAHA. - -The Ocklawaha, the "dark, crooked water," comes from the south, by -tortuous windings, through various lakes and swamps, and then turns -east and southeast to flow into St. John's River, after a course of -over three hundred miles. It rises in Lake Apopka, down the Peninsula, -elevated about a hundred feet above the sea, the second largest of the -Florida Lakes, and covering one hundred and fifty square miles. This -lake has wooded highlands to the westward, dignified by the title of -Apopka Mountains, which rise probably one hundred and twenty feet -above its surface. To the northward is a group of lakes--Griffin, -Yale, Eustis, Dora, Harris and others--having clear amber waters and -low shores, which are all united by the Ocklawaha, the stream finally -flowing northward out of Lake Griffin. This is a region of extensive -settlement, mainly by Northern people. The mouth of the Ocklawaha is -sixty-five miles from Lake Eustis in a straight line, but the river -goes two hundred and thirty miles to get there. To the northward of -this lake district is the thriving town of Ocala, with five thousand -people, in a region of good agriculture and having large -phosphate beds, the settlement having been originally started as a -military post during the Seminole War. About five miles east of Ocala -is the famous Silver Spring, which is believed to have been the -"fountain of perpetual youth," for which Juan Ponce de Leon vainly -searched. It is the largest and most beautiful of the many Florida -springs, having wonderfully clear waters, and covers about three -acres. The waters can be plainly seen pouring upwards through fissures -in the rocky bottom, like an inverted Niagara, eighty feet beneath the -surface. It has an enormous outflow, and a swift brook runs from it, a -hundred feet wide, for some eight miles to the Ocklawaha. - -This strange stream is hardly a river in the ordinary sense, having -fixed banks and a well-defined channel, but is rather a tortuous but -navigable passage through a succession of lagoons and cypress swamps. -Above the Silver Spring outlet, only the smallest boats of light draft -can get through the crooked channel. This outlet is thirty miles in a -direct line from the mouth of the river at the St. John's, but the -Ocklawaha goes one hundred and nine miles thither. The swampy border -of the stream is rarely more than a mile broad, and beyond it are the -higher pine lands. Through this curious channel, amid the thick -cypress forests and dense jungle of undergrowth, the wayward and -crooked river meanders. The swampy bottom in which it has its course -is so low-lying as to be undrainable and cannot be improved, so that -it will probably always remain as now, a refuge for the sub-tropical -animals, birds, reptiles and insects of Florida, which abound in its -inmost recesses. Here flourishes the alligator, coming out to sun -himself at mid-day on the logs and warm grassy lagoons at the edge of -the stream, in just the kinds of places one would expect to find him. -Yet the alligator is said to be a coward, rarely attacking, unless his -retreat to water in which to hide himself is cut off. He thus becomes -more a curiosity than a foe. These reptiles are hatched from eggs -which the female deposits during the spring, in large numbers, in -muddy places, where she digs out a spacious cavity, fills it with -several hundred eggs, and covering them thickly with mud, leaves -nature to do the rest. After a long incubation the little fellows come -out and make a bee-line for the nearest water. The big alligators of -the neighborhood have many breakfasts on the newly-born little ones, -but some manage to grow up, after several years, to maturity, and -exhibit themselves along this remarkable river. - -It is almost impossible to conceive of the concentrated crookedness of -the Ocklawaha and the difficulties of passage. It is navigated by -stout and narrow flat-bottomed boats of light draft, constructed so as -to quickly turn sharp corners, bump the shores and run on logs without -injury. The river turns constantly at short intervals and doubles upon -itself in almost every mile, while the huge cypress trees often -compress the water way so that a wider boat could not get through. -There are many beautiful views in its course displaying the noble -ranks of cypress trees rising as the stream bends along its bordering -edge of swamps. Occasionally a comparatively straight river reach -opens like the aisle of a grand building with the moss-hung cypress -columns in long and sombre rows on either hand. At rare intervals fast -land comes down to the stream bank, where there is some cultivation -attempted for oranges and vegetables. Terrapin, turtles and water-fowl -abound. When the passenger boat, after bumping and swinging around the -corners, much like a ponderous teetotum, halts for a moment at a -landing in this swampy fastness, half-clad negroes usually appear, -offering for sale partly-grown baby alligators, which are the prolific -crop of the district. Various "Turkey bends," "Hell's half-acres," -"Log Jams," "Bone Yards" and "Double S Bends" are passed, and at one -place is the "Cypress Gate," where three large trees are in the way, -and by chopping off parts of their roots, a passage about twenty feet -wide had been secured to let the boats through. There are said to be -two thousand bends in one hundred miles of this stream, and many of -them are like corrugated circles, by which the narrow water way, in a -mile or two of its course, manages to twist back to within a few feet -of where it started. At night, to aid the navigation, the lurid glare -of huge pine-knot torches, fitfully blazing, gives the scene a weird -and unnatural aspect. The monotonous sameness of cypress trunks, -sombre moss and twisting stream for many hours finally becomes very -tiresome, but it is nevertheless a most remarkable journey of the -strangest character possible in this country to sail down the -Ocklawaha. - - -LOWER FLORIDA AND THE SEMINOLES. - -South of the mouth of the Ocklawaha the St. John's River broadens into -Lake George, the largest of its many lakes, a pretty sheet of water -six to nine miles wide and twelve miles long. Volusia, the site of an -ancient Spanish mission, is at the head of this lake, and the -discharge from the swift but narrow stream above has made sand bars, -so that jetties are constructed to deepen the channel. For a long -distance the upper river is narrow and tortuous, with numerous islands -and swamps, the dark coffee-colored water disclosing its origin; but -the Blue Spring in one place is unique, sending out an ample and rich -blue current to mix with the amber. Then Lake Monroe is reached, ten -miles long and five miles wide, the head of navigation, by the regular -lines of steamers, one hundred and seventy miles above Jacksonville. -Here are two flourishing towns, Enterprise on the northern shore and -Sanford on the southern, both popular winter resorts, and the latter -having two thousand people. The St. John's extends above Lake Monroe, -a crooked, narrow, shallow stream, two hundred and fourteen miles -farther southeastward to its source. The region through which it there -passes is mostly a prairie with herds of cattle and much game, and is -only sparsely settled. The upper river approaches the seacoast, being -in one place but three miles from the lagoons bordering the Atlantic. -To the southward of Lake Monroe are the winter resorts of Winter Park -and Orlando, the latter a town of three thousand population. There are -numerous lakes in this district, and then leaving the St. John's -valley and crossing the watershed southward through the pine forests, -the Okeechobee waters are reached, which flow down to that lake. This -region was the home of a part of the Seminole Indians, and -Tohopekaliga was their chief, whom they revered so highly that they -named their largest lake in his honor. The Kissimmee River flows -southward through this lake, and then traverses a succession of lakes -and swamps to Lake Okeechobee, about two hundred miles southward by -the water-line. Kissimmee City is on Lake Tohopekaliga, and extensive -drainage operations have been conducted here and to the southward, -reclaiming a large extent of valuable lands, and lowering the -water-level in all these lakes and attendant swamps. - -From Lake Tohopekaliga through the tortuous water route to Lake -Okeechobee, and thence by the Caloosahatchie westward to the Gulf of -Mexico, is a winding channel of four hundred and sixty miles, though -in a direct line the distance is but one hundred and fifty miles. -Okeechobee, the word meaning the "large water," covers about twelve -hundred and fifty square miles, and almost all about it are the -everglades or "grass water," the shores being generally a swampy -jungle. This district for many miles is a mass of waving sedge grass -eight to ten feet high above the water, and inaccessible excepting -through narrow, winding and generally hidden channels. In one locality -a few tall lone pines stand like sentinels upon Arpeika Island, -formerly the home of the bravest and most dreaded of the Seminoles, -and still occupied by some of their descendants. The name of the -Seminole means the "separatist" or "runaway" Indians, they having -centuries ago separated from the Creeks in Georgia and gone southward -into Florida. From the days of De Soto to the time of their -deportation in the nineteenth century the Spanish, British, French and -Americans made war with these Seminole Indians. Gradually they were -pressed southward through Florida. Their final refuge was the green -islands and hummocks of the everglades, and they then clung to their -last homes with the tenacity of despair. The greater part of this -region is an unexplored mystery; the deep silence that can be actually -felt, everywhere pervades; and once lost within the labyrinth, the -adventurer is doomed unless rescued. Only the Indians knew its -concealed and devious paths. On Arpeika Island the Cacique of the -Caribs is said to have ruled centuries ago, until forced south out of -Florida by the Seminoles. It was at times a refuge for the buccaneer -with his plunder and a shrine for the missionary martyr who planted -the Cross and was murdered beside it. This island was the last retreat -of the Seminoles in the desultory war from 1835 to 1843, when they -defied the Government, which, during eight years, spent $50,000,000 -upon expeditions sent against them. Then the attempt to remove all of -them was abandoned, and the remnant have since rested in peace, living -by hunting and a little trading with the coast settlements. The names -of the noted chiefs of this great race--Osceola, Tallahassee, -Tohopekaliga, Coa-coo-chee and others--are preserved in the lakes, -streams and towns of Florida. Most of the deported tribe were sent to -the Indian Territory. There may be three or four hundred of them still -in the everglades, peaceful, it is true, yet haughty and suspicious, -and sturdily rejecting all efforts to educate or civilize them. They -celebrate their great feast, the "Green Corn Dance," in late June; and -they have unwavering faith in the belief that the time will yet come -when all their prized everglade land will be theirs again, and the -glory of the past redeemed, if not in this world, then in the next -one, beyond the "Big Sleep." - - -WESTERN FLORIDA. - -Westward from Jacksonville, a railway runs through the pine forests -until it reaches the rushing Suwanee River, draining the Okifenokee -swamp out to the Gulf, just north of Cedar Key. This stream is best -known from the minstrel song, long so popular, of the _Old Folks at -Home_. Beyond it the land rises into the rolling country of Middle -Florida, the undulating surface sometimes reaching four hundred feet -elevation, and presenting fertile soil and pleasant scenery, with a -less tropical vegetation than the Peninsula of Florida. Here is -Tallahassee, the capital of the State, one hundred and sixty-five -miles from Jacksonville, a beautiful town of four thousand population, -almost embedded in flowering plants, shrubbery and evergreens, and -familiarly known from these beauties as the "Floral City," the gardens -being especially attractive in the season of roses. The Capitol and -Court-house and West Florida Seminary, set on a hill, are the chief -public buildings. In the suburbs, at Monticello, lived Prince Achille -Murat, a son of the King of Naples, who died in 1847, and his grave is -in the Episcopal Cemetery. There are several lakes near the town, one -of them the curious Lake Miccosukie, which contracts into a creek, -finally disappearing underground. The noted Wakulla Spring, an immense -limestone basin of great depth and volume of water, with wonderful -transparency, is fifteen miles southward. - -Some distance to the westward the Flint and Chattahoochee Rivers join -to form the Appalachicola River, flowing down to the Gulf at -Appalachicola, a somewhat decadent port from loss of trade, its -exports being principally lumber and cotton. The shallowness of most -of these Gulf harbors, which readily silt up, destroys their -usefulness as ports for deep-draft shipping. The route farther -westward skirts the Gulf Coast, crosses Escambia Bay and reaches -Pensacola, on its spacious harbor, ten miles within the Gulf. This is -the chief Western Florida port, with fifteen thousand people, having a -Navy Yard and much trade in lumber, cotton, coal and grain, a large -elevator for the latter being erected in 1898. The Spaniards made this -a frontier post in 1696, and the remains of their forts, San Miguel -and San Bernardo, can be seen behind the town, while near the outer -edge of the harbor is the old-time Spanish defensive battery, Fort San -Carlos de Barrancos. The harbor entrance is now defended by Fort -Pickens and Fort McRae. Pensacola Bay was the scene of one of the -first spirited naval combats of the Civil War, when the Union forces -early in 1862 recaptured the Navy Yard and defenses. The name of -Pensacola was originally given by the Choctaws to the bearded -Europeans who first settled there, and signifies the "hair people." - - -THE FLORIDA GULF COAST. - -The coast of Florida on the Gulf of Mexico has various attractive -places, reached by a convenient railway system. Homosassa is a popular -resort about fifty miles southwestward from Ocala. A short distance in -the interior is the locality where the Seminoles surprised and -massacred Major Dade and his men in December, 1835, only three -soldiers escaping alive to tell the horrid tale. The operations -against these Indians were then mainly conducted from the military -post of Tampa, and thither were taken for deportation the portions of -the tribe that were afterwards captured, or who surrendered under the -treaty. When Ferdinand de Soto entered this magnificent harbor on his -voyage of discovery and gold hunting, he called it Espiritu Sancto -Bay. It is from six to fifteen miles wide, and stretches nearly forty -miles into the land, being dotted with islands, its waters swarming -with sea-fowl, turtles and fish, deer abounding in the interior and on -some of the islands, and there being abundant anchorage for the -largest vessels. This is the great Florida harbor and the chief winter -resort on the western coast. It was the main port of rendezvous and -embarkation for the American forces in the Spanish War of 1898. The -head of the harbor divides into Old Tampa and Hillsborough Bays, and -on the latter and at the mouth of Hillsborough River is the city, -numbering about twenty-five thousand inhabitants. The great hotels -are surrounded by groves with orange and lemon trees abounding, and -everything is invoked that can add to the tourist attractions. The -special industry of the resident population is cigar-making. Port -Tampa is out upon the Peninsula between the two bays, several miles -below the city, and a long railway trestle leads from the shore for a -mile to deep water. Upon the outer end of this long wharf is Tampa -Inn, built on a mass of piles, much like some of the constructions in -Venice. The guests can almost catch fish out of the bedroom windows, -and while eating breakfast can watch the pelican go fishing in the -neighboring waters, for this queer-looking bird, with the duck and -gull, is everywhere seen in these attractive regions. An outer line of -keys defends Tampa harbor from the storms of the Gulf. There are many -popular resorts on the islands and shores of Tampa Bay, and regular -lines of steamers are run to the West India ports, Mobile and New -Orleans. All the surroundings are attractive, and a pleased visitor -writes of the place: "Conditions hereabouts exhilarate the men; a -perpetual sun and ocean breeze are balm to the invalid and an -inspiration to a robust health. The landscape affords uncommon -diversion, and the sea its royal sport with rod and gaff." - -Farther down the coast is Charlotte Harbor, also deeply indented and -sheltered from the sea by various outlying islands. It is eight to ten -miles long and extends twenty-five miles into the land, having -valuable oyster-beds and fisheries, and its port is Punta Gorda. Below -this is the projecting shore of Punta Rassa, where the outlet of Lake -Okeechobee, the Caloosahatchie River, flows to the sea, having the -military post of Fort Myers, another popular resort, a short distance -inland, upon its bank. The Gulf Coast now trends to the southeast, -with various bays, in one of which, with Cape Romano as the guarding -headland, is the archipelago of "the ten thousand islands," while -below is Cape Sable, the southwestern extremity of Florida. To the -southward, distant from the shore, are the long line of Florida Keys, -the name coming from the Spanish word _cayo_, an island. This -remarkable coral formation marks the northern limit of the Gulf -Stream, where it flows swiftly out to round the extremity of the -Peninsula and begin its northern course through the Atlantic Ocean. -Although well lighted and charted, the Straits of Florida along these -reefs are dangerous to navigate and need special pilots. Nowhere -rising more than eight to twelve feet above the sea, the Keys thus -low-lying are luxuriantly covered with tropical vegetation. From the -Dry Tortugas at the west, around to Sand's Key at the entrance to -Biscayne Bay, off the Atlantic Coast, about two hundred miles, is a -continuous reef of coral, upon the whole extent of which the little -builder is still industriously working. The reef is occasionally -broken by channels of varying depth, and within the outer line are -many habitable islands. The whole space inside this reef is slowly -filling up, just as all the Keys are also slowly growing through -accretions from floating substances becoming entangled in the myriad -roots of the mangroves. The present Florida Reef is a good example of -the way in which a large part of the Peninsula was formed. No less -than seven old coral reefs have been found to exist south of Lake -Okeechobee, and the present one at the very edge of the deep water of -the Gulf Stream is probably the last that can be formed, as the little -coral-builder cannot live at a greater depth than sixty feet. The Gulf -Stream current is so swift and deep along the outer reef that there is -no longer a foundation on which to build. - -The Gulf Stream is the best known of all the great ocean currents. The -northeast and southeast trade-winds, constantly blowing, drive a great -mass of water from the Atlantic Ocean into the Caribbean Sea, and -westward through the passages between the Windward Islands, which is -contracted by the converging shores of the Yucatan Peninsula and the -Island of Cuba, so that it pours between them into the Gulf of Mexico, -raising its surface considerably above the level of the Atlantic. -These currents then move towards the Florida Peninsula, and pass -around the Florida Reef and out into the Atlantic. It is estimated by -the Coast Survey that the hourly flow of the Gulf Stream past the -reef is nearly ninety thousand million tons of water, the speed at the -surface of the axis of the stream being over three and one-half miles -an hour. To conceive what the immensity of this flow means, it is -stated that if a single hour's flow of water were evaporated, the salt -thus produced would require to carry it one hundred times the number -of ocean-going vessels now afloat. The Gulf Stream water is of high -temperature, great clearness and a deep blue color; and when it meets -the greener waters of the Atlantic to the northward, the line of -distinction is often very well defined. At the exit to the Atlantic -below Jupiter Inlet the stream is forty-eight miles wide to Little -Bahama Bank, and its depth over four hundred fathoms. - -There are numerous harbors of refuge among the Florida Keys, and that -at Key West is the best. This is a coral island seven miles long and -one to two miles broad, but nowhere elevated more than eleven feet -above the sea. Its name, by a free translation, comes from the -original Spanish name of _Cayo Hueso_, or the Bone Island, given -because the early mariners found human bones upon it. Here are twenty -thousand people, mostly Cubans and settlers from the Bahamas, the -chief industry being cigar-making, while catching fish and turtles and -gathering sponges also give much employment. There are no springs on -the island, and the inhabitants are dependent on rain or distillation -for water. The air is pure and the climate healthy, the trees and -shrubbery, with the residences embowered in perennial flowers, giving -the city a picturesque appearance. Key West has a good harbor, and as -it commands the gateway to and from the Gulf near the western -extremity of the Florida coral reef, it is strongly defended, the -prominent work being Fort Taylor, constructed on an artificial island -within the main harbor entrance. The little Sand Key, seven miles to -the southwest, is the southernmost point of the United States. Forty -miles to the westward is the group of ten small, low and barren -islands known as the Dry Tortugas, from the Spanish _tortuga_, a -tortoise. Upon the farthest one, Loggerhead Key, stands the great -guiding light for the Florida Reef, of which this is the western -extremity, the tower rising one hundred and fifty feet. Fort Jefferson -is on Garden Key, where there is a harbor, and in it were confined -various political prisoners during the Civil War, among them some who -were concerned in the conspiracy to assassinate President Lincoln. - -Here, with the encircling waters of the Gulf all around us, terminates -this visit to the Sunny South. As we have progressed, the gradual -blending of the temperate into the torrid zone, with the changing -vegetation, has reminded of Bayard Taylor's words: - - "There, in the wondering airs of the Tropics, - Shivers the Aspen, still dreaming of cold: - There stretches the Oak from the loftiest ledges, - His arms to the far-away lands of his brothers, - And the Pine tree looks down on his rival, the Palm." - -And as the journey down the Florida Peninsula has displayed some of -the most magnificent winter resorts of the American Riviera, with -their wealth of tropical foliage, fruits and flowers, and their -seductive and balmy climate, this too has reminded of Cardinal -Damiani's glimpse of the "Joys of Heaven": - - "Stormy winter, burning summer, rage within these regions never, - But perpetual bloom of roses and unfading spring forever; - Lilies gleam, the crocus glows, and dropping balms their scents - deliver." - -Along this famous peninsula the sea rolls with ceaseless beat upon -some of the most gorgeous beaches of the American coast. To the -glories of tropical vegetation and the charms of the climate, Florida -thus adds the magnificence of its unrivalled marine environment. -Everywhere upon these pleasant coasts-- - - "The bridegroom, Sea, - Is toying with his wedded bride,--the Shore. - He decorates her shining brow with shells, - And then retires to see how fine she looks, - Then, proud, runs up to kiss her." - - - - -TRAVERSING THE PRAIRIE LAND. - - - - -VI. - -TRAVERSING THE PRAIRIE LAND. - - The Northwest Territory -- Beaver River -- Fort McIntosh -- - Mahoning Valley -- Steubenville -- Youngstown -- Canton -- - Massillon -- Columbus -- Scioto River -- Wayne Defeats the - Miamis -- Sandusky River -- Findlay -- Natural Gas Fields -- - Fort Wayne -- Maumee River -- The Little Turtle -- Old - Tippecanoe -- Tecumseh -- Battle of Tippecanoe -- Harrison - Defeats the Prophet -- Tecumseh Slain in Canada -- Indianapolis - -- Wabash River -- Terre Haute -- Illinois River -- Springfield - -- Lincoln's Home and Tomb -- Peoria -- The Great West -- Lake - Erie -- Tribe of the Cat -- Conneaut -- The Western Reserve -- - Ashtabula -- Mentor -- Cleveland -- Cuyahoga River -- Moses - Cleaveland -- Euclid Avenue -- Oberlin -- Elyria -- The Fire - Lands -- Sandusky -- Put-in-Bay Island -- Perry's Victory -- - Maumee River -- Toledo -- South Bend -- Chicago -- The - Pottawatomies -- Fort Dearborn -- Chicago Fire -- Lake Michigan - -- Chicago River -- Drainage Canal -- Lockport -- Water Supply - -- Fine Buildings, Streets and Parks -- University of Chicago - -- Libraries -- Federal Steel Company -- Great Business - Establishments -- Union Stock Yards -- The Hog -- The Board of - Trade -- Speculative Activity -- George M. Pullman -- The - Sleeping Car -- The Pioneer -- Town of Pullman -- Agricultural - Wealth of the Prairies -- The Corn Crop -- Whittier's Corn - Song. - - -THE NORTHWEST TERRITORY. - -Beyond the Allegheny ranges, which are gradually broken down into -their lower foothills, and then to an almost monotonous level, the -expansive prairie lands stretch towards the setting sun. From their -prolific agriculture has come much of the wealth and prosperity of -the United States. The rivers flowing out of the mountains seek the -Mississippi Valley, thus reaching the sea through the Great Father of -Waters. Among these rivers is the Ohio, and at its confluence with the -Beaver, near the western border of Pennsylvania, was, in the early -days, the Revolutionary outpost of Fort McIntosh, a defensive work -against the Indians. All about is a region of coal and gas, extending -across the boundary into the Mahoning district of Ohio, the Mahoning -River being an affluent of the Beaver. Numerous railroads serve its -many towns of furnaces and forges. To the southward is Steubenville on -the Ohio, and to the northward Youngstown on the Mahoning, both busy -manufacturing centres. Salem and Alliance are also prominent, and some -distance northwest is Canton, a city of thirty thousand people, in a -fertile grain district, the home of President William McKinley. -Massillon, upon the pleasant Tuscarawas River, in one of the most -productive Ohio coal-fields, preserves the memory of the noted French -missionary priest, Jean Baptiste Massillon, for all this region was -first traversed, and opened to civilization, by the French religious -explorers from Canada who went out to convert the Indians. - -In the centre of the State of Ohio is the capital, Columbus, built on -the banks of the Scioto River, a tributary of the Ohio flowing -southward and two hundred miles long. This river receives the -Olentangy or Whetstone River at Columbus, in a region of great -fertility, which is in fact the characteristic of the whole Scioto -Valley. The Ohio capital, which has a population of one hundred and -twenty thousand, large commerce and many important manufacturing -establishments, dates from 1812, and became the seat of the State -Government in 1816. The large expenditures of public money upon -numerous public institutions, all having fine buildings, the wide, -tree-shaded streets, and the many attractive residences, have made it -one of the finest cities in the United States. Broad Street, one -hundred and twenty feet wide, beautifully shaded with maples and elms, -extends for seven miles. The Capitol occupies a large park surrounded -with elms, and is an impressive Doric building of gray limestone, -three hundred and four feet long and one hundred and eighty-four feet -wide, the rotunda being one hundred and fifty-seven feet high. There -are fine parks on the north, south and east of the city, the latter -containing the spacious grounds of the Agricultural Society. Almost -all the Ohio State buildings, devoted to its benevolence, justice or -business, have been concentrated in Columbus, adding to its -attractions, and it is also the seat of the Ohio State University with -one thousand students. Railroads radiate in all directions, adding to -its commercial importance. - -In going westward, the region we are traversing beyond the -Pennsylvania boundary gradually changes from coal and iron to a rich -agricultural section. As we move away from the influence of the -Allegheny ranges, the hills become gentler, and the rolling surface is -more and more subdued, until it is smoothed out into an almost level -prairie, heavily timbered where not yet cleared for cultivation. This -was the Northwest Territory, first explored by the French, who were -led by the Sieur de la Salle in his original discoveries in the -seventeenth century. The French held it until the conquest of Canada, -when that Dominion and the whole country west to the Mississippi River -came under the British flag by the treaty of 1763. After the -Revolution, the various older Atlantic seaboard States claiming the -region, ceded sovereignty to the United States Government, and then -its history was chequered by Indian wars until General Wayne conducted -an expedition against the Miamis and defeated them in 1794, after -which the Northwest Territory was organized, and the State of Ohio -taken out of it and admitted to the Union in 1803, its first capital -being Chillicothe. It was removed to Zanesville for a couple of years, -but finally located at Columbus. - -Beyond the Scioto the watershed is crossed, by which the waters of the -Ohio are left behind and the valley of Sandusky River is reached, a -tributary of Lake Erie. Here is Bucyrus, in another prolific natural -gas region, the centre of which is Findlay. At this town, in 1887, the -inhabitants, who had then had just one year of natural gas -development, spent three days in exuberant festivity, to show their -appreciation of the wonderful discovery. They had thirty-one gas wells -pouring out ninety millions of cubic feet in a day, all piped into -town and feeding thirty thousand glaring natural gas torches of -enormous power, which blew their roaring flames as an accompaniment to -the oratory of John Sherman and Joseph B. Foraker, who were then -respectively Senator and Governor of Ohio. The soldiers and firemen -paraded, and a multitude of brass bands tried to drown the Niagara of -gas which was heard roaring five miles away, while the country at -night was illuminated for twenty miles around. But the wells have -since diminished their flow, although the gas still exists; while -another field with a prolific yield is in Fairfield County, a short -distance southeast of Columbus. Over the State boundary in Indiana is -yet another great gas-field covering five thousand square miles in a -dozen counties, with probably two thousand wells and a yield which has -reached three thousand millions of cubic feet in a day. This gas -supplies many cities and towns, including Chicago, and it is one of -the greatest gas-fields known. In the same region there are also large -petroleum deposits. - -Not far beyond the State boundary is Fort Wayne, the leading city of -Northern Indiana, having forty thousand population, an important -railway centre, and prominent also in manufactures. It stands in a -fertile agricultural district, and being located at the highest part -of the gentle elevation, beyond the Sandusky Valley, diverting the -waters east and west, it is appropriately called the "Summit City." -Here the Maumee River is formed by the confluence of the two streams -St. Joseph and St. Mary, and flows through the prairie towards the -northeast, to make the head of Lake Erie. The French, under La Salle, -in the eighteenth century established a fur-trading post here, and -erected Fort Miami, and in 1760 the British penetrated to this then -remote region and also built a fort. During the Revolution this -country was abandoned to the Indians, but when General Wayne defeated -the Miamis in 1794 he thought the place would make a good frontier -outpost to hold the savages in check, and he then constructed a strong -work, to which he gave the name of Fort Wayne. Around this post the -town afterwards grew, being greatly prospered by the Wabash and Erie -Canal, and by the various railways subsequently constructed in all -directions. All this prairie region was the hunting-ground of the -Miamis, whose domain extended westward to Lake Michigan, and southward -along the valley of the Miami River to the Ohio. They were a warlike -and powerful tribe, and their adherence to the English during the -Revolution provoked almost constant hostilities with the settlers who -afterwards came across the mountains to colonize the Northwest -Territory. Under the leadership of their renowned chief -Mishekonequah, or the "Little Turtle," they defeated repeated -expeditions sent against them, until finally beaten by Wayne. -Subsequently they dwindled in importance, and when removed farther -west, about 1848, they numbered barely two hundred and fifty persons. - - -OLD TIPPECANOE. - -Some distance westward is the Tippecanoe River, a stream flowing -southwest into the Wabash, and thence into the Ohio. The word -Tippecanoe is said to mean "the great clearing," and on this river was -fought the noted battle by "Old Tippecanoe," General William Henry -Harrison, against the combined forces of the Shawnees, Miamis and -several other tribes, which resulted in their complete defeat. They -were united under Elskwatawa, or the "Prophet," the brother of the -famous Tecumseh. These two chieftains were Shawnees, and they preached -a crusade by which they gathered all the northwestern tribes in a -concerted movement to resist the steady encroachments of the whites. -The brother, who was a "medicine man," in 1805 set up as an inspired -prophet, denouncing the use of liquors, and of all food, manners and -customs introduced by the hated "palefaces," and confidently predicted -they would ultimately be driven from the land. For years both chiefs -travelled over the country stirring up the Indians. General Harrison, -who was the Governor of the Northwest Territory, gathered his forces -together and advanced up the Wabash against the Prophet's town of -Tippecanoe, when the Indians, hoping to surprise him, suddenly -attacked his camp, but he being prepared, they were signally defeated, -thus giving Harrison his popular title of "Old Tippecanoe," which had -much to do with electing him President in 1840. Some time after this -defeat the War of 1812 broke out, when Tecumseh espoused the English -cause, went to Canada with his warriors, and was made a -brigadier-general. He was killed there in the battle of the Thames, in -Ontario Province, and it is said had a premonition of death, for, -laying aside his general's uniform, he put on a hunting-dress and -fought desperately until he was slain. Tecumseh was the most famous -Indian chief of his time, and the honor of killing him was claimed by -several who fought in the battle, so that the problem of "Who killed -Tecumseh?" was long discussed throughout the country. - -The State of Indiana was admitted into the Union in 1816, and in its -centre, built upon a broad plain, on the east branch of White River, -is its capital and largest city, Indianapolis, having two hundred -thousand population. This is a great railway centre, having lines -radiating in all directions, and it also has extensive manufactures -and a large trade in live stock. The city plan, with wide streets -crossing at right angles, and four diagonal avenues radiating from a -circular central square, makes it very attractive; and the residential -quarter, displaying tasteful houses, ornate grounds and shady streets, -is regarded as one of the most beautiful in the country. The State -Capitol, in a spacious park, is a Doric building with colonnade, -central tower and dome, and in an enclosure on its eastern front is -erected one of the finest Soldiers' and Sailors' Monuments existing, -rising two hundred and eighty-five feet, out-topping everything -around, having been designed and largely constructed in Europe. There -are also many prominent public buildings throughout the city. -Indianapolis, first settled in 1819, had but a small population until -the railways centred there, the Capitol being removed from Corydon in -1825. The Wabash River, to which reference has been made, receives -White River, and is one of the largest affluents of the Ohio, about -five hundred and fifty miles long, being navigable over half that -length. It rises in the State of Ohio, flows across Indiana, and, -turning southward, makes for a long distance the Illinois boundary. -Its chief city is Terre Haute, the "High Ground," about seventy miles -west of Indianapolis, another prominent railroad centre, having -forty-five thousand people, with extensive manufactures. It is -surrounded by valuable coal-fields, is built upon an elevated plateau, -and, like all these prairie cities, is noted for its many broad and -well-shaded streets. It was founded in 1816. - - -THE GREAT WEST. - -Progressing westward, the timbered prairie gradually changes to the -grass-covered prairie, spreading everywhere a great ocean of -fertility. Across the Wabash is the "Prairie State" of Illinois, its -name coming from its principal river, which the Indians named after -themselves. The word is a French adaptation of the Indian name -"Illini," meaning "the superior men," the earliest explorers and -settlers having been French, the first comers on the Illinois River -being Father Marquette and La Salle. At the beginning of the -eighteenth century their little settlements were flourishing, and the -most glowing accounts were sent home, describing the region, which -they called "New France," on account of its beauty, attractiveness and -prodigious fertility, as a new Paradise. There were many years of -Indian conflicts and hostility, but after peace was restored and a -stable government established, population flowed in, and Illinois was -admitted as a State to the Union in 1818. The capital was established -at Springfield in 1837, an attractive city of about thirty thousand -inhabitants, built on a prairie a few miles south of Sangamon River, a -tributary of the Illinois, and from its floral development and the -adornment of its gardens and shade trees, Springfield is popularly -known as the "Flower City." There is a magnificent State Capitol with -high surmounting dome, patterned somewhat after the Federal Capitol -at Washington. Springfield has coal-mines which add to its prosperity, -but its great fame is connected with Abraham Lincoln. He lived in -Springfield, and the house he occupied when elected President has been -acquired by the State and is on public exhibition. After his -assassination in 1865, his remains were brought from Washington to -Springfield, and interred in the picturesque Oak Ridge Cemetery, in -the northern suburbs, where a magnificent monument was erected to his -memory and dedicated in 1874. About sixty miles north of Springfield, -the Illinois River expands into Peoria Lake, and here came La Salle -down the river in 1680, and at the foot of the lake established a -trading-post and fort, one of the earliest in that region. When more -than a century had elapsed, a little town grew there which is now the -busy industrial city of Peoria, famous for its whiskey and glucose, -and turning out products that annually approximate a hundred millions, -furnishing vast traffic for numerous railroads. It is the chief city -of the "corn belt," and is served by all the prominent trunk railway -lines. - -Like the pioneers of a hundred years ago, we have left the Atlantic -seaboard, crossed the Allegheny Mountains and entered the expansive -"Northwest Territory," which in the first half of the nineteenth -century was the Mecca of the colonist and frontiersman. This was then -the region of the "Great West," though that has since moved far -beyond the Mississippi. Its agricultural wealth made the prosperity of -the country for many decades, and its prodigious development was -hardly realized until put to the test of the Civil War, when it poured -out the men and officers, and had the staying qualities so largely -contributing to the result of that great conflict. Gradually -overspread by a network of railways, the numerous "cross-roads" have -expanded everywhere into towns and cities, almost all patterned alike, -and all of them centres of rich farming districts. Coal, oil and gas -have come to minister to its manufacturing wants, and thus growing -into mature Commonwealths, this prolific region in the later decades -has been itself, in turn, contributing largely to the tide of -migration flowing to the present "Great Northwest," a thousand miles -or more beyond. It presents a rich agricultural picture, but little -scenic attractiveness. Everywhere an almost dead level, the numerous -railways cross and recross the surface in all directions at grade, and -are easily built, it being only necessary to dig a shallow ditch on -either side, throw the earth in the centre, and lay the ties and -rails. Nature has made the prairie as smooth as a lake, so that hardly -any grading is necessary, and the region of expansive green viewed out -of the car window has been aptly described as having "a face but no -features," when one looks afar over an ocean of waving verdure. - - -LAKE ERIE. - -This vast prairie extends northward to and beyond the Great Lakes, and -it is recorded that in the early history of the proposed legislation -for the "Northwest Territory," Congress gravely selected as the names -of the States which were to be created out of it such ponderous -conglomerates as "Metropotamia," "Assenispia," "Pelisipia" and -"Polypotamia," titles which happily were long ago permitted to pass -into oblivion. Northward, in Ohio, the region stretches to Lake Erie, -the most southern and the smallest of the group of Great Lakes above -Niagara. It is regarded as the least attractive lake, having neither -romances nor much scenery. Yet, from its favorable position, it -carries an enormous commerce. It is elliptical in form, about two -hundred and forty miles long and sixty miles broad, the surface being -five hundred and sixty-five feet above the ocean level. It is a very -shallow lake, the depth rarely exceeding one hundred and twenty feet, -excepting at the lower end, while the other lakes are much deeper, and -in describing this difference of level it is said that the surplus -waters poured from the vast _basins_ of Superior, Michigan and Huron, -flow across the _plate_ of Erie into the deep _bowl_ of Ontario. This -shallowness causes it to be easily disturbed, so that it is the most -dangerous of these fresh-water seas, and it has few harbors, and those -very poor, especially upon the southern shore. The bottom of the lake -is a light, clayey sediment, rapidly accumulated from the wearing away -of the shores, largely composed of clay strata. The loosely-aggregated -products of these disintegrated strata are frequently seen along its -coast, forming cliffs extending back into elevated plateaus, through -which the rivers cut deep channels. Their mouths are clogged by -sand-bars, and dredging and breakwaters have made the harbors on the -southern shore, around which have grown the chief towns--Dunkirk, -Erie, Ashtabula, Cleveland, Sandusky and Toledo. The name of Lake Erie -comes from the Indian "tribe of the Cat," whom the French called the -"Chats," because their early explorers, penetrating to the shores of -the lake, found them abounding in wild cats, and thus they gave the -same name to the cats and the savages. In their own parlance, these -Indians were the "Eries," and in the seventeenth century they numbered -about two thousand warriors. In 1656 the Iroquois attacked and almost -annihilated them. - -The Lake Erie ports in the "Buckeye State" of Ohio, so called from the -buckeye tree, are chiefly harbors for shipping coal and receiving ores -from the upper lakes, their railroads leading to the great industrial -centres to the southward. Near the eastern boundary of Ohio is -Conneaut, on the bank of a wide and deep ravine, formed by a small -river, broadening into a bay at the shore of the lake, the name -meaning "many fish." Here landed in 1796 the first settlers from -Connecticut, who entered the "Western Reserve," as all this region was -then called. On July 4th of that year, celebrating the national -anniversary, "they pledged each other in tin cups of lake water, -accompanied by a salute of fowling-pieces," and the next day began -building the first house on the Reserve, constructed of logs, and long -known as "Stow Castle." Conneaut is consequently known as the -"Plymouth of the Western Reserve," as here began the settlements made -by the Puritan New England migration to Ohio. On deep ravines making -their harbors are Ashtabula, an enormous _entrepot_ for ores, and a -few miles farther westward, Painesville, on Grand River, named for -Thomas Paine. Beyond is Mentor, the home of the martyred President -Garfield, whose large white house stands near the railway. All along -here, the southern shore of Lake Erie is a broad terrace at eighty to -one hundred feet elevation above the water, while farther inland is -another and considerably higher plateau. Each sharp declivity facing -northward seems at one time to have been the actual shore of the lake -when its surface before the waters receded was much higher than now. -The outer plateau having once been the overflowed lake bed, is level, -excepting where the crooked but attractive streams have deeply cut -their winding ravines down through it to reach Lake Erie. - - -THE CITY OF CLEVELAND. - -Thus we come to Cleveland, the second city in Ohio, having four -hundred thousand people, and extensive manufacturing industries. It is -the capital of the "Western Reserve" and the chief city of Northern -Ohio, its commanding position upon a high bluff, falling off -precipitously to the edge of the water, giving it the most attractive -situation on the shore of Lake Erie. Shade trees embower it, including -many elms planted by the early settlers, who learned to love them in -New England, and hence it delights in the popular title of the "Forest -City." Were not the streets so wide, the profusion of foliage might -make Cleveland seem like a town in the woods. The little Cuyahoga -River, its name meaning "the crooked stream," flows with wayward -course down a deeply washed and winding ravine, making a valley in the -centre of the city, known as "the Flats," and this, with the tributary -ravines of some smaller streams, is packed with factories and -foundries, oil refineries and lumber mills, their chimneys keeping the -business section constantly under a cloud of smoke. Railways run in -all directions over these flats and through the ravines, while, high -above, the city has built a stone viaduct nearly a half-mile long, -crossing the valley. Here are the great works of the Standard Oil -Company, controlling that trade, and several of the petroleum magnates -have their palaces in the city. - -Old Moses Cleaveland, a shrewd but unsatisfied Puritan of the town of -Windham, Connecticut, became the agent of the Connecticut Lead -Company, who brought out the first colony in 1796 that landed at -Conneaut. They explored the lake shore, and selecting as a good -location the mouth of Cuyahoga River, Moses wrote back to his former -home that they had found a spot "on the bank of Lake Erie which was -called by my name, and I believe the child is now born that may live -to see that place as large as old Windham." In little over a century -the town has grown far beyond his wildest dreams, although it did not -begin to expand until the era of canals and railways, and it was not -so long ago that the people in grateful memory erected a bronze statue -of the founder. One of the local antiquaries, delving into the -records, has found why various original settlers made their homes at -Cleveland. He learned that "one man, on his way farther West, was laid -up with the ague and had to stop; another ran out of money and could -get no farther; another had been to St. Louis and wanted to get back -home, but saw a chance to make money in ferrying people across the -river; another had $200 over, and started a bank; while yet another -thought he could make a living by manufacturing ox-yokes, and he -stayed." This earnest investigator continues: "A man with an -agricultural eye would look at the soil and kick his toe into it, and -then would shake his head and declare that it would not grow white -beans--but he knew not what this soil would bring forth; his hope and -trust was in beans, he wanted to know them more, and wanted potatoes, -corn, oats and cabbage, and he knew not the future of Euclid Avenue." - -On either side of the deep valley of "the Flats" stretch upon the -plateau the long avenues of Cleveland, with miles of pleasant -residences, surrounded by lawns and gardens, each house isolated in -green, and the whole appearing like a vast rural village more than a -city. This pleasant plan of construction had its origin in the New -England ideas of the people. Yet the city also has a numerous -population of Germans, and it is recorded that one of the early -landowners wrote, in explaining his project of settlement: "If I make -the contract for thirty thousand acres, I expect with all speed to -send you fifteen or twenty families of prancing Dutchmen." These -Teutons came and multiplied, for the original Puritan stock can hardly -be responsible for the vineyards of the neighborhood, the music and -dancing, and the public gardens along the pleasant lake shore, where -the crowds go, when work is over, to enjoy recreation and watch the -gorgeous summer sunsets across the bosom of the lake which are the -glory of Cleveland. Upon the plateau, the centre of the city, is the -Monumental Park, where stand the statue of Moses Cleaveland, the -founder, who died in 1806, and a fine Soldiers' Monument, with also a -statue of Commodore Perry. This Park is an attractive enclosure of -about ten acres, having fountains, gardens, monuments and a little -lake, and it is intersected at right angles by two broad streets, and -surrounded by important buildings. One of the streets is the chief -business highway, Superior Street, and the other leads down to the -edge of the bluff on the lake shore, where the steep slope is made -into a pleasure-ground, with more flower-beds and fountains and a -pleasant outlook over the water, although at its immediate base is a -labyrinth of railroads and an ample supply of smoke from the numerous -locomotives. A long breakwater protects the harbor entrance, and out -under the lake is bored the water-works tunnel. - -There extends far to the eastward, from a corner of the Monumental -Park, Cleveland's famous street--Euclid Avenue. The people regard it -as the handsomest highway in America, in the combined magnificence of -houses and grounds. It is a level avenue of about one hundred and -fifty feet width, with a central roadway and stone footwalks on either -hand, shaded by rows of grand overarching elms, and bordered on both -sides by well-kept lawns. This is the public highway, every part being -kept scrupulously neat, while a light railing marks the boundary -between the street and the private grounds. For a long distance this -noble avenue is bordered by stately residences, each surrounded by -ample gardens, the stretch of grass, flowers and foliage extending -back from one hundred to four hundred feet between the street and the -buildings. Embowered in trees, and with all the delights of garden and -lawn seen in every direction, this grand avenue makes a delightful -driveway and promenade. Upon it live the multi-millionaires of -Cleveland, the finest residences being upon the northern side, where -they have invested part of the profits of their railways, mills, -mines, oil wells and refineries in adorning their homes and -ornamenting their city. This splendid boulevard, in one way, is a -reproduction of the Parisian Avenue of the Champs Elysees and its -gardens, but with more attractions in the surroundings of its -bordering rows of palaces. Here live the men who vie with those of -Chicago in controlling the commerce of the lakes and the affairs of -the Northwest. Plenty of room and an abundance of income are necessary -to provide each man, in the heart of the city, with two to ten acres -of lawns and gardens around his house, but it is done here with -eminent success. About four miles out is the beautiful Wade Park, -opposite which are the handsome buildings of the Western Reserve -University, having, with its adjunct institutions, a thousand -students. Beyond this, the avenue ends at the attractive Lake View -Cemetery, where, on the highest part of the elevated plateau, with a -grand outlook over Lake Erie, is the grave of the assassinated -President Garfield. His imposing memorial rises to a height of one -hundred and sixty-five feet. - - -CLEVELAND TO CHICAGO. - -Thirty-five miles southwest of Cleveland, and some distance inland -from Lake Erie, is Oberlin, where, in a fertile and prosperous -district, is the leading educational foundation of Northern -Ohio--Oberlin College--named in memory of the noted French -philanthropist, and established in 1833 by the descendants of the -Puritan colonists, to carry out their idea of thorough equality in -education. It admits students without distinction of sex or color, and -has about thirteen hundred, almost equally divided between the sexes, -occupying a cluster of commodious buildings. To the westward is the -beautiful ravine of Black River, which gets out to the lake by falling -over a rocky ledge in two streams, and on the peninsula formed by its -forks is the town of Elyria. Maria Ely was the wife of the founder of -the settlement, who named it after her in this peculiar reversible -way. This romantic stream bounds the "Fire Lands" of the Western -Reserve, a tract of nearly eight hundred square miles abutting on the -lake shore, which Connecticut set apart for colonization by her -people, who had been sufferers from destructive fires in the towns of -New London, Fairfield and Norwalk on Long Island Sound. They secured -this wilderness in the early part of the nineteenth century, and their -chief town is Sandusky, with twenty-five thousand population. Here -lived most of the Eries, the Indian "tribe of the Cat," who fished in -Sandusky Bay, its upper waters being an archipelago of little green -islands abounding with water fowl. They were known to the adjoining -tribes as the "Neutral Nation," for they maintained two villages of -refuge on Sandusky River, between the warlike Indians of the east and -the west, and whoever entered their boundaries was safe from pursuit, -the sanctuary being rigidly observed. The early French missionaries -who found them in the seventeenth century speak of these anomalous -villages among the savages as having then been long in existence. - -The name of Sandusky is a corruption of a Wyandot word meaning -"cold-water pools," the French having originally rendered it as -Sandosquet. The shores are low, but there is a good harbor and much -trade, and here is located the Ohio State Fish Hatchery. The railroads -are laid among the savannahs and lagoons, and one of the suburban -stations has been not inaptly named Venice. There are extensive -vineyards on the flat and sunny shores of the bay, and this is one of -the most prolific grape districts in the State. Sandusky Bay is a -broad sheet of water, in places six miles wide, and about twenty miles -long. Sandusky has a large timber trade, being noted for the -manufacture of hard woods. Out beyond the bold peninsula, protruding -into the lake at the entrance to the bay, is a group of islands -spreading over the southwestern waters of Lake Erie, of which Kelly's -Island is the chief, an archipelago formed largely from the _detritus_ -washed out of the Detroit, Maumee and various other rivers flowing -into the head of the lake. Here the Erie Indians had a fortified -stronghold, whose outlines can still be traced. The most noted of the -group is Put-in-Bay Island, now a popular watering-place, which got -its name from Commodore Perry, who "put in" there with the captured -British fleet at the naval battle of Lake Erie, September 10, 1813. It -was from this place, just after his victory, that he sent the historic -despatch, giving him fame, "We have met the enemy and they are ours." -The killed of both fleets were buried side by side near the beach on -the island, the place being marked by a mound. The lovely sheet of -water of Put-in-Bay glistens in front, having the towns of -villa-crowned Gibraltar Island upon its surface. Vineyards and roses -abound, these islands, like the adjacent shores, being noted for their -wines. - -The Maumee River, coming up from Fort Wayne, flows into the head of -Lake Erie, the largest stream on its southern coast. It comes from the -southwest through the region of the "Black Swamp," a vast district, -originally morass and forest, which has been drained to make a most -fertile country. This "miserable bog," as the original settlers -denounced it, when they were jolted over the rude corduroy roads that -sustained them upon the quaking morass, has since become the "prolific -garden" and "magnificent forest" described by the modern tourist. The -Maumee Valley was an almost continual battle-ground with the Indians -when "Mad Anthony Wayne" commanded on that frontier, he being called -by them the "Wind," because "he drives and tears everything before -him." For a quarter of a century border warfare raged along this -river, then known as the "Miami of the Lakes," and its chief -settlement, Toledo, passed its infancy in a baptism of blood and fire. -It was at the battle of Fallen Timbers, fought in 1794, almost on the -site of Toledo, that Wayne gave his laconic and noted "field orders." -General William Henry Harrison, then his aide, told Wayne just before -the battle he was afraid he would get into the fight and forget to -give "the necessary field orders." Wayne replied: "Perhaps I may, and -if I do, recollect that the standing order for the day is, charge the -rascals with the bayonets." Toledo is built on the flat surface on -both sides of the Maumee River and Bay, which make it a good harbor, -stretching six miles down to Lake Erie. There are a hundred thousand -population here, and this energetic reproduction of the ancient -Spanish city has named its chief newspaper the _Toledo Blade_. The -city has extensive railway connections and a large trade in lumber and -grain, coal and ores, and does much manufacturing, it being well -served with natural gas. A dozen grain elevators line the river -banks, and the factory smokes overhang the broad low-lying city like a -pall. To the westward, crossing the rich lands of the reclaimed swamp, -is the Indiana boundary, that State being here a broad and level -prairie, which also stretches northward into Michigan. The chief town -of Northern Indiana is South Bend, named from the sweeping southern -bend of St. Joseph River, on which it is built. This stream rises in -Michigan, and flows for two hundred and fifty miles over the prairie, -going down into Indiana and then back again to empty into Lake -Michigan. South Bend is noted for its carriage- and wagon-building -factories, and has several flourishing Roman Catholic institutions, -generally of French origin. To the westward spreads the level prairie, -with scant scenic attractions, though rich in agriculture, to the -shores of Lake Michigan, being gridironed with railways as Chicago is -approached. - - -THE GREAT CITY OF THE LAKES. - -The second city in the United States, with a population approximating -two millions, Chicago, the metropolis of the prairies, seems destined -for unlimited growth. It has absorbed all the outlying towns, and now -embraces nearly two hundred square miles. It has a water-front on Lake -Michigan of twenty-six miles, and its trade constantly grows. It -pushes ahead with boundless energy, attracting the shrewdest men of -the West to take part in its vast and profitable enterprises, and is -in such a complete manner the depot and storehouse for the products -and supplies of goods for the enormous prairie region around it, and -for the entire Northwest, and the country out to the Rocky Mountains -and Pacific Ocean, that other Western cities cannot displace or even -hope to rival it. Yet it is a youthful giant, of quick and marvellous -development, but few of its leading spirits having been born within -its limits, nearly all being attracted thither by its paramount -advantages. The prominent characteristics of Chicago are an -overhanging pall of smoke; streets crowded with quick-moving, busy -people; a vast aggregation of railways, vessels, elevators and traffic -of all kinds; a polyglot population drawn from almost all races; and -an earnest devotion to the almighty dollar. Its name came from the -river, and is of Indian origin, regarded as probably a corruption of -"Cheecagua," the title of a dynasty of chiefs who controlled the -country west and south of Lake Michigan. This also was a word applied -in the Indian dialect to the wild onion growing luxuriantly on the -banks of the river, and they gave a similar name to the thunder which -they believed the voice of the Great Spirit, and to the odorous animal -abounding in the neighborhood that the white man knew as the -"polecat." These were rather incongruous uses for the same word, but -the suggestion has been made that all can be harmonized if Chicago is -interpreted as meaning "strong," the Indians, being poorly supplied -with words, usually selecting the most prominent attribute in giving -names. All these things are in one way or another "strong," and it is -evident that prodigious strength exists in Chicago. - -As elsewhere throughout the Northwest, the French missionaries were -here the earliest explorers, Father Marquette coming in 1673, and -afterwards Hennepin, Joliet and La Salle, whose names are so -numerously reproduced in the Northwestern States. The French built at -the mouth of the river Fort Chicagou, for a trading-post, and held it -until the English conquered Canada. When the earlier American settlers -ventured to this frontier, the Indians on Lake Michigan were the -Pottawatomies, and were hostile. The Government in 1804 built Fort -Dearborn, near the mouth of the Chicago River, to control them. These -Indians joined in the crusade of the Prophet and Tecumseh, and when -the war with England began in 1812, attacked and captured the fort, -massacring the garrison. The post was subsequently re-established, and -the Indians were ultimately removed west of the Mississippi. Not long -afterwards it was said the first purchase of the site of Chicago took -place, wherein a large part of the land now occupied was sold for a -pair of boots. When the town plot was originally surveyed, twelve -families were there in addition to the garrison of Fort Dearborn, and -in 1831 it had one hundred people. In 1833 the town government was -organized, and it had five hundred and fifty inhabitants and one -hundred and seventy-five buildings. Five trustees then ruled Chicago, -and collected $49 for the first year's taxes. Collis P. Huntington, -the Pacific Railway manager, says that in 1835, being possessed of a -good constitution and a pair of mules, but little else, he was out -that way prospecting, and found at Chicago nothing but a swamp and a -few destitute farmers, all anxious to move. One of these farmers came -to him with the deed of his farm of two thousand acres, and offered to -trade it for his pair of mules. Huntington adds: "I was not very -favorably impressed with the settlement and declined his offer, and -finally continued my travel west, and that farm is to-day the business -centre of Chicago." - -In 1837 Chicago got its first city charter, and it then had about -forty-two hundred people. The rapid growth since has been -unparalleled, especially when, after 1850, its commercial enterprise -began attracting wide attention, the population then being about -thirty thousand. In 1855, to get above the swamp and improve the -drainage, the level of the entire city was raised seven feet, huge -buildings being elevated bodily while business was progressing, an -enterprise mainly accomplished by the ingenious devices which first -gave prominence to the late George M. Pullman. The population almost -quadrupled and its trade increased tenfold in the decade 1850-60, and -in 1870 the population was over three hundred thousand, and it had -become a leading American city. Yet Chicago has had terrible setbacks -in its wonderful career, the most awful being the fire in October, -1871, the greatest of modern times, which raged for three days, burned -over a surface of nearly four square miles and until practically -nothing remained in the district to devour, destroyed eighteen -thousand buildings, two hundred lives, and property valued at -$200,000,000, leaving a hundred thousand people homeless--a calamity -that excited the sympathies of the world, which gave relief -contributions aggregating $7,000,000. Yet while the embers were -smoking, this enterprising people set to work to rebuild their city -with a will and a progress which caused almost as much amazement as -the original catastrophe. The recovery was complete; the city which -had been of wood was rebuilt of brick and stone and iron and steel, -and its progress since has developed an energy not before equalled. It -has been beautified by grand parks and boulevards, and by the -construction of palatial residences and business blocks, and of -enormous office buildings, the tall "sky-scrapers" having been first -invented and built in Chicago. In 1893 the World's Columbian -Exhibition, to celebrate the discovery of America, was held at Chicago -on a vast scale and with remarkable success. The city has long been, -also, a favorite meeting-place for the great political Conventions -nominating candidates for President and Vice-President of the United -States, its large hotel capacity and immense halls giving advantages -for these enormous assemblages. - - -CHICAGO'S ADMIRABLE LOCATION. - -The position of Chicago at the southwestern extremity of Lake -Michigan, with prairies of the greatest fertility stretching hundreds -of miles south and west, makes the city the primary food-gatherer and -supply-distributor of the great Northwest, and this has been the chief -cause of its growth. In September, 1833, the Pottawatomies agreed to -sell their prairie homes to the United States and migrate to -reservations farther West, and seven thousand of them assembled in -grand council at Chicago, and sold the Government twenty millions of -acres of these prairies around Lake Michigan, in Indiana, Illinois and -Michigan, for $1,100,000. Thus was this fertile domain opened to -settlement. In the Indian dialect, Michigan means the "great water," -and it is the largest lake within the United States, being three -hundred and twenty miles long and seventy broad, and having an average -depth of one thousand feet, with the surface elevated five hundred and -seventy-eight feet above the ocean level. On the Chicago side this -extensive lake has but a narrow watershed, the Illinois River, -draining the region to the westward, being formed only sixty-five -miles southwest of the lake by the junction of the Kankakee and -Desplaines Rivers. This narrow and very low watershed, considered in -connection with the enormous capacity of the Illinois River valley, -which is at a much lower level and appears as if worn by a mighty -current in former times, is regarded by geologists as an evidence of -the probability that the Lake Michigan waters may in past ages have -found their way to that outlet and flowed through the Illinois and -Mississippi Rivers to the Gulf. The diminutive bayou of the Chicago -River, with its two short and tortuous branches, made Chicago the -leading lake port, and thus brought trade, so that early in the race -it far outstripped all its Western rivals. Every railroad of -prominence sought an outlet or a feeder at Chicago, and the title of a -"trunk line" was adopted for a line of rails between Chicago and the -seaboard. The surrounding prairie for miles is crossed in all -directions by railways, and a large part of the city and suburbs is -made up of huge stations, car-yards, elevators, storehouses and -cattle-pens, almost overwhelming visitors with the prodigious scale of -their elaborate perplexity. The maze of railways and streets on the -level surface, all crossing at grade, as it has spread over miles of -prairie and grown into such enormous proportions, presents a most -serious problem, with which the city and the railways are now dealing -on a comprehensive plan, by which it is hoped that before long the -grade-crossings will be eliminated. - -Another problem, found even more serious as the city grew, was the -drainage. In former years the sewage was discharged into the Chicago -River and Lake Michigan. The river became a most malodorous stream in -consequence, and as it had practically no descent, the current would -scarcely flow, and the lake, from which the city water-supply was -drawn, was more and more polluted. With the customary enterprise of -these wonderful people, however, they decided to make the only change -feasible, which was to take advantage of the descending watershed -towards Desplaines River and change their sewerage system so that it -would all discharge in that direction. The problem was solved by the -construction of the most expensive drainage works in the world, and a -complete change of the sewers, at a cost altogether approximating -$40,000,000. St. Louis and the towns along the Desplaines fought the -scheme, and there was protracted litigation, but the very existence of -Chicago depended on the result. The great drainage canal was completed -connecting the Chicago River South Branch with Desplaines River at -Lockport, twenty-eight miles southwest, where it discharges the -outflow from Lake Michigan, which then flows past Joliet, and -ultimately into Illinois River. This huge canal, opened in January, -1900, reverses the flow of the Chicago River, which now draws in about -three hundred thousand cubic feet of water per minute from Lake -Michigan and flushes the canal, which is also to be made available for -shipping. Thus the Chicago River flows towards its source with a free -current, and Lake Michigan has been purified. The canal has quite a -descent to Lockport, and the water-power is to be availed of in -generating electricity. The city water-supply is drawn from cribs out -in the lake through four systems of tunnels, aggregating twenty-two -miles, furnishing an ample service, and pumping-stations in various -locations elevate the water in towers to secure sufficient head for -the flow into the buildings. The chief of these towers, a solid stone -structure alongside the lake, rises one hundred and sixty feet, the -huge pumping-engines forcing a vast stream constantly over its top. - - - [Illustration: _Lincoln Monument, Lincoln Park, Chicago_] - -FEATURES OF CHICAGO. - -Chicago is the world's greatest grain, lumber and cattle market. It -attracts immigrants from everywhere, and all flourish in native -luxuriance, although occasionally they are compelled to bow to the -power of the law by the military arm when civil forces are exhausted. -Everything seems to go on without much hindrance, and thus this -wonderful city secures its rapid growth and completely cosmopolitan -character. While proud of their amazing progress, the people seem -generally so engrossed in pushing business enterprises and piling up -fortunes that they have little time to think of much else. Yet -somebody has had opportunity to plan the adornment of the city by a -magnificent series of parks and boulevards encircling it. The broad -expanse of prairie was low, level and treeless originally, but -abundant trees have since been planted, and art has made little lakes -and miniature hills, beautiful flower-gardens and abundant shrubbery, -thus producing pleasure-grounds of rare attractions. Michigan Avenue -and Drexel and Grand Boulevards, leading to the southern system of -parks and Lake Shore Drive on the north side of Chicago River, are the -finest residential streets. The huge Auditorium fronting on Michigan -Avenue was erected at a cost of $3,500,000, includes a hotel and -theatre, and is surmounted with a tower rising two hundred and seventy -feet, giving a fine view over the city and lake. Out in front is the -Lake Park, with railways beyond near the shore, and a fine bronze -equestrian statue of General John A. Logan, who died in 1886 and is -buried in the crypt beneath the monument. Michigan Avenue begins at -Chicago River alongside the site of old Fort Dearborn, now -obliterated, and it stretches far south, a tree-lined boulevard -adorned by magnificent residences. - -Chicago River, with its entrance protected by a wide-spreading -breakwater, is the harbor of the city, and, like its railways, carries -the trade. Tunnels conduct various streets under it, and a multitude -of bridges go over it, all of them opening to let vessels pass. They -are mostly swinging bridges, but some are ingenious constructions, -which roll, and lift and fold, and in various curious ways open the -channel for the shipping. Huge elevators line the river banks, with -vessels alongside, into which streams of grain are poured, while -multitudes of cars move in and out, under and around them, bringing -the supply from the farm to the storage-bins. In the business section, -as elsewhere, the streets are wide, thus accommodating the throngs who -fill them, and there are fine city and national buildings, a new -Post-office of large size and imposing architecture being in course of -construction. The Chicago Public Library, completed in 1897, is a -grand structure, costing $2,000,000, and having about three hundred -thousand volumes. The University of Chicago, in the southern suburbs, -is destined to become one of the leading institutions of learning in -America. It began instruction in 1892, and now has some twenty-four -hundred students, and endowments of $15,000,000, largely the gifts of -John D. Rockefeller. The University grounds cover twenty-four acres, -and when the plan is completed there will be over forty buildings. Its -libraries contain three hundred and fifty thousand volumes. The great -Yerkes Observatory, adjunct to this University, is at Lake Geneva, -Wisconsin, seventy miles distant, and has the largest refracting -telescope in the world, with forty-inch lens and a tube seventy feet -long. On the northern side of the city is the Newberry Library, with -$3,000,000 endowment and two hundred thousand volumes, including -admirable musical and medical collections, and the Crerar Library, -with $2,000,000 endowment, principally for scientific works, is being -established on the south side. Chicago's greatest industrial -establishment is the Federal Steel Company, having enormous -rolling-mills and foundries in various parts of the city, and also at -Joliet on Desplaines River. Its South Chicago Rolling Mills occupy -over three hundred acres. The manufacture of agricultural machinery is -represented by two enormous establishments, the McCormick Harvesting -Machine Company on the southwest side and the Deering Works in the -northwestern district. - - -CHICAGO BUSINESS ENERGY. - -As the elevators of Chicago represent its traffic in grain, and -contain usually a large proportion of what is known as the "visible -supply," so do the vast lumber-yards along Chicago River often store -up an enormous product of the output from the "Great North Woods," -covering much of Michigan, Wisconsin and Minnesota, and spreading -across the Canadian border. The third great branch of traffic is -represented by the Union Stock Yards in the southwestern suburbs. -These yards in a year will handle eight millions of hogs, four -millions of cattle, four millions of sheep and a hundred thousand -horses, over two-thirds of the hogs and cattle being killed in the -yards and sent away in the form of meat, and the whole annual traffic -being valued at $250,000,000. The yards cover three hundred acres, and -with the packing-houses employ twenty-five thousand men, and they have -twenty miles of water-troughs and twenty-five miles of feeding-troughs, -and are served by two hundred and fifty miles of railway-tracks. The -hog is a potential factor in American economy, being regarded as the -most compact form in which the corn crop of the country can be -transported to market. The corn on the farm is fed to the hog, and the -animal is sent to Chicago as a package provided by nature for its -economical utilization. The Union Stock Yards make a complete town, -with its own banks, hotels, Board of Trade, Post-office, town-hall, -newspaper and special Fire Department. The extensive enclosure is -entered by a modest, gray sandstone turreted gateway, surmounted by a -carved bull's head, emblematic of its uses. The Horse Market is a -large pavilion, seating four thousand people. From this vast emporium, -with its enormous packing-houses, are sent away the meat supplies that -go all over the world, the product being carried out in long trains of -canned goods and refrigerator cars, the most ingenious methods of -"cold storage" being invented for and used in this widely extended -industry. - -The active traffic of the grain and provision trades of Chicago is -conducted in the building of the Board of Trade, a tall and imposing -structure at the head of La Salle Street, which makes a fitting close -to the view along that grand highway. It is one of the most elaborate -architectural ornaments of the city, and its surmounting tower rises -three hundred and twenty-two feet from the pavement. The fame of this -grand speculative arena is world-wide, and the animated and at times -most exciting business done within marks the nervous beating of the -pulse of this metropolis of food products. The interior is a -magnificent hall, lighted by high-reaching windows and surmounted by a -central skylight elevated nearly a hundred feet above the floor. -Impressive columns adorn the sides, and the elaborate frescoes above -are in keeping with its artistic decoration. Upon the spacious floor, -between nine and one o'clock, assemble the wheat and corn, and pork, -lard, cattle and railway kings in a typical scene of concentrated and -boiling energy feeding the furnace in which Chicago's high-pressure -business enterprise glows and roars. These speculative gladiators have -their respective "pits" or amphitheatres upon the floor, so that they -gather in huge groups, around which hundreds run and jostle, the scene -from the overlooking gallery, as the crowds sway and squirm, and with -their calls and shouting make a deafening uproar, being a veritable -Bedlam. Each "pit" deals in a specific article, while in another space -are detachments of telegraph operators working with nimble fingers to -send instant reports of the doings and prices to the anxious outer -world. High up on the side of the grand hall, in full view of all, are -hung large dials, whose moving hands keep momentary record of the -changes in prices made by the noisy and excited throngs in the "pits," -thus giving notice of the ruling figures for the next month's -"options" on wheat, corn and "short-ribs." There are tables for -samples, and large blackboards bearing the figures of market -quotations elsewhere. This Chicago Board of Trade has been the scene -of some of the wildest speculative excitements in the country, as its -shouting and almost frenzied groups of traders in the "pits" may make -or break a "corner," and here in fitful fever concentrates the -business energy of the great Metropolis of the Lakes. - - -PULLMAN AND THE SLEEPING-CAR. - -Another Chicago specialty of wide fame is the railway sleeping-car, -brought to its present high stage of development by one of the most -prominent Chicagoans, the late George M. Pullman. The earliest -American sleeping-car was devised by Theodore T. Woodruff, who -constructed a small working model in 1854 at Watertown, New York, and -subsequently building his car, first ran it on the New York Central -Railroad in October, 1856, charging fifty cents for a berth. George M. -Pullman was originally a cabinet-maker in New York State, and moved -when a young man to Chicago. His first fame in that city, as already -stated, came from the ingenious methods he devised, when the grade of -the town was elevated to secure better drainage, for raising the -buildings by putting hundreds of jackscrews under them, trade -continuing uninterrupted during the process. Pullman, subsequently to -that time, travelled occasionally between Chicago and Buffalo, and one -night got into Woodruff's car. He was stretched out upon the vibrating -couch for some two hours, but could not sleep, and his eyes being -widely open, and the sight wandering all about the car, he struck upon -a new idea. When he left the car he had determined to develop from his -brief experience a plan destined to expand into a complete home upon -wheels for the traveller, either awake or sleeping. In 1859 he turned -two ordinary railway coaches into sleeping-cars and placed them upon -night trains between Chicago and St. Louis, charging fifty cents per -berth, his first night's receipts being two dollars. He ran these -experimental coaches about five years before he felt able to carry out -his ideal plan, and he then occupied fully a year in constructing his -model sleeping-car, the "Pioneer," at Chicago, at a cost of $18,000. -But when completed the car was so heavy, wide and high that no railway -could undertake running it, as it necessitated cutting off station -platforms and elevating the tops of bridges before it could pass by. -Thus he had a white elephant on his hands for a time. In April, 1865, -President Lincoln's assassination shocked the country, and the -funeral, with its escort of mourning statesmen, was progressing from -Washington to Chicago, on the way to the grave at Springfield. The -nation watched its progress, and the railways transporting the -_cortege_ were doing their best. The manager of the road from Chicago -to Springfield used the "Pioneer" in the funeral train, taking several -days to prepare for it by sending out gangs of men to cut off the -station platforms and alter the bridges. Pullman's dream was realized; -his "coach of the future," with its escort of statesmen, carried the -dead President to his grave and became noted throughout the land. A -few weeks later, General Grant, fresh from the conquest of the -Rebellion, had a triumphal progress from the camp to his home in -Illinois. Five days were spent in clearing the railway between Detroit -and Galena, where he lived, and the "Pioneer" carried Grant over that -line. - -These successes made Pullman's fortune, and the business of his -company grew rapidly afterwards, it being now an enormous concern with -$70,000,000 capital, controlling practically all the sleeping-cars of -this country and many abroad. The main works are at the Chicago suburb -of Pullman, ten miles south of the centre of the city, where there are -about twelve thousand population, most of the people being connected -with the works, which are an extensive general car-building -establishment. Pullman was built as a model town, with every -improvement calculated to add to the comfort and health of the -working-people, being also provided with its own library, theatre, -and a tasteful arcade, in which are various shops. It was at Pullman -in 1894 that the great strike took place which ultimately involved a -large portion of the railways of the country, causing much rioting and -bloodshed, and finally requiring the intervention of the Federal -troops to maintain the peace. After a protracted period of turmoil, -the strike failed. - - -THE CORN CROP. - -Chicago is the _entrepot_ for the great prairie region spreading from -the Alleghenies westward beyond the Mississippi. Here grows the grain -making the wealth of the land, and feeding the cattle, hogs and sheep -that are poured so liberally into the Union Stock Yards of the Lake -City. Upon the crops of this vast prairie land depends the prosperity -of the country. Wall Street in New York and the Chicago Board of Trade -are the market barometers of this prosperity, for the prairie farmer, -as he may be rich and able to spend money, or poor so that he cannot -even pay his debts, controls the financial outlook in America. The -traveller, as he glides upon this universal prairie land, east, south -and west of Chicago, viewing its limitless fertility seen far away in -every direction over the monotonous level, as if looking across an -ocean, cannot help recalling Wordsworth's pleasant lines: - - "The streams with softest sound are flowing, - The grass you almost hear it growing, - You hear it now, if e'er you can." - -Then, as the crops ripen and are garnered, and the wealth of the -prairie is turned into food for the world, there comes with the -advancing autumn the ripening of the greatest crop of America, and the -mainstay of the country, the Indian corn. It is wonderful to think -that the first corn crop of the United States planted by white men at -Jamestown, Virginia, on a field of forty acres in 1608, has grown to -an annual yield approximating twenty-three hundred million bushels. -This prolific crop is the banner product of the great prairie, and -Whittier in his "Corn Song" has recorded its glories: - - "Heap high the farmer's wintry hoard! - Heap high the golden corn! - No richer gift has autumn poured - From out the lavish horn! - - "Let other lands, exulting, glean - The apple from the pine, - The orange from its glossy green, - The cluster from the vine; - - "We better love the hardy gift - Our rugged vales bestow, - To cheer us when the storm shall drift - Our harvest fields with snow. - - "Through vales of grass and meads of flowers, - Our plows their furrows made, - While on the hills, the sun and showers - Of changeful April played. - - "We dropped the seed o'er hill and plain - Beneath the sun of May, - And frightened from our sprouting grain - The robber crows away. - - "All through the long bright days of June - Its leaves grew green and fair, - And waved in hot midsummer's noon - Its soft and yellow hair. - - "And now, with autumn's moonlit eves, - Its harvest time has come, - We pluck away the frosted leaves, - And bear the treasure home. - - "There, richer than the fabled gift - Apollo showered of old, - Fair hands the broken grain shall sift, - And knead its meal of gold. - - "Let vapid idlers loll in silk - Around their costly board; - Give us the bowl of samp and milk - By homespun beauty poured! - - "Where'er the wide old kitchen hearth - Sends up its smoky curls, - Who will not thank the kindly earth, - And bless our farmer girls! - - "Let earth withhold her goodly root, - Let mildew blight the rye, - Give to the worm the orchard's fruit, - The wheat-field to the fly; - - "But let the good old corn adorn - The hills our fathers trod; - Still let us for his golden corn - Send up our thanks to God!" - - - - -GLIMPSES OF THE GREAT NORTHWEST. - - - - -VII. - -GLIMPSES OF THE GREAT NORTHWEST. - - The Great Lakes -- Sieur de La Salle -- Lake St. Clair -- Lake - Huron -- Detroit -- Ann Arbor -- Mackinac Island -- Sault - Sainte Marie -- Lake Superior -- Lake Nepigon -- Thunder Bay -- - Port Arthur -- Kakabika Falls -- The Pictured Rocks -- - Marquette -- Keweenaw -- Iron and Copper -- Houghton -- Lake - Gogebic -- Superior City -- Duluth -- Messabi and Vermillion - Ranges -- Green Bay -- Wisconsin -- Milwaukee -- Waukesha -- - Madison -- Rock Island -- Davenport -- Moline Rapids -- Dubuque - -- Iowa -- Black Hawk -- Minnesota -- La Crosse -- Lake Pepin - -- Falls of St. Anthony -- St. Paul -- Minneapolis -- Fort - Snelling -- Flour and Lumber -- Lake Minnetonka -- Minnehaha - Falls -- Hiawatha and Minnehaha -- Source of the Mississippi -- - Itasca Lake -- Minnesota River -- Red River of the North -- - Ancient Lake Agassiz -- Sioux Falls -- Fargo -- Great Wheat - Farms -- Manitoba -- Rat Portage -- Keewatin -- Winnipeg -- - Hudson Bay Company -- Dakota -- Bismarck -- The Bad Lands -- - Yellowstone River -- Montana -- Big Horn River -- Custer - Massacre -- Livingston -- Cinnabar Mountain -- Yellowstone - National Park -- Mammoth Hot Springs -- Norris Geyser Basin -- - Firehole River -- Lower, Middle and Upper Geyser Basins -- - Yellowstone Lake and Falls -- The Grand Canyon -- Two-Ocean - Pond -- Westward the Course of Empire Takes its Way. - - -THE GREAT LAKES. - -Rene Robert Cavelier, the Sieur de La Salle, was the chief French -pilgrim and adventurer in the seventeenth century who explored the -Great Lakes and valley of the Mississippi, and secured for his country -the vast empire of Louisiana, stretching from Canada to the Gulf. His -explorations were made in 1669 and again in 1678, and like all the -discoverers of that early time he was hunting for the water way -thought to lead to the South Sea and provide a route to China. The -historian Parkman describes La Salle as one of the most remarkable -explorers whose names live in history; the hero of a fixed idea and -determined purpose; an untiring pilgrim pushing onward towards the -goal he was never to attain; the pioneer who guided America to the -possession of her richest heritage. Throughout the northwest his -memory is preserved in the names of rivers, towns, and otherwise, and -his maps and narratives gave the earliest geography of the Lakes and -the vast and prolific region obtained from France in the Louisiana -cession. - -The Great Lakes on the northern border of the United States are the -largest bodies of fresh water on the globe. They carry an enormous -commerce, nearly a hundred thousand men being employed by the fleet of -lake vessels, which approximates two millions tonnage. At the head of -Lake Erie the waters of Detroit River pour in, draining the upper -lakes, this stream, about twenty-five miles long, flowing from Lake -St. Clair and broadening from a half-mile to four miles width at its -mouth. Lake St. Clair is elevated five hundred and thirty feet, but is -small, being about twenty-five miles in diameter, and shallow, only -about twenty feet deep. The navigation of its shallows is intricate, -and is aided by a long canal through the shoals at the upper end, -where the St. Clair River discharges, a strait about forty miles long, -flowing south from Lake Huron. This great lake is at five hundred and -eighty feet elevation, and in places seventeen hundred feet deep, -covering twenty-four thousand square miles, and containing many -islands. At its northern end, Lakes Superior and Michigan join it by -various straits and water ways beyond Mackinac Island. Westward of -Lakes Ontario and Erie, and between them and Lake Huron, a long -peninsula of the Dominion of Canada projects southward into the United -States, terminating opposite Detroit. Similarly, to the westward of -Lake Huron, and between it and Lake Michigan, the State of Michigan -has its lower peninsula projecting upward to Canada. The Canadian -projection, which is part of Ontario Province, is unfortunately -located, being almost surrounded by these expansive lakes, having -bleak, cold winds sweeping across them and seriously impeding its -agriculture. The surface has little charm of scenery and the -population is sparse. The trunk railways, however, find this an almost -direct route from Western New York to Detroit and Chicago, and various -roads traverse it, coming out on the Detroit River and the -swift-flowing St. Clair River, which are crossed both by car-ferry and -tunnel. At the outlet of Lake Huron, St. Clair River is less than a -thousand feet wide between Point Edward and Fort Gratiot, and here -and at Ports Sarnia and Huron the low and level shores are lined with -docks, elevators and other accessories of commerce. This river brings -vast amounts of sand down out of Lake Huron with its swift current, -which are deposited on the St. Clair Flats beyond its mouth, keeping -that lake shallow, and requiring the long ship canal to maintain -navigation. Below Lake St. Clair, the wider Detroit River presents -many fine bits of scenery, while the city of Detroit spreads for -several miles along the northwestern bank, and has Windsor opposite, -on the Canadian shore. Pretty islands dot the broadening stream below -Detroit, and the varying width, with the bluffs on the Canadian side, -and the meadows, fields and forests of Michigan, give lovely views. - - -DETROIT AND MACKINAC. - -Detroit means "the strait," and the original Indian names for the -river mean "the place of the turned channel." The early visitors who -reached it by boat at night or in dark weather, and were inattentive -to the involved currents, always remarked, as the Indians did before -them, that owing to these extraordinary involutions of the waters, -when the sun appeared again it always seemed to rise in the wrong -place. The French under La Salle were the first Europeans who passed -through the river, and in 1701 the Sieur de la Mothe Cadillac, who -received grants from Louis XIV., came and founded Fort Pontchartrain -there, naming it after the French Minister of Marine, around which a -settlement afterwards grew, to which the French sent colonists at -intervals. The British got possession in 1760, and it successfully -resisted the conspiracy and attacks of the Ojibway Indian chief -Pontiac for over a year, the garrison narrowly escaping massacre. The -United States, after the Revolution, sent out General St. Clair as -Governor, and his name was given the lake to the northward. Detroit -was a frontier post in the War of 1812, being alternately held by -British and Americans. In 1824 it had about fifteen hundred people and -became a city. It now has three hundred and fifty thousand population, -and its commercial importance may be estimated from the fact that the -whole enormous traffic of the Lakes passes in front of the city during -the seven months that navigation is open, the procession of craft -often reaching sixty thousand vessels in the season. Detroit also has -extensive and varied manufactures. It has a gradually rising surface -and broad and well-paved streets on a rectangular plan, with several -avenues radiating from a centre, like the spokes of a wheel. The -central square is the Campus Martius, an expansion, about a half-mile -from the river, of Woodward Avenue, the chief street. Here is an -elaborate City Hall, the principal public building, having in front a -magnificent Soldiers' Monument. The suburbs are attractive, and there -are various pleasant parks and rural cemeteries, the leading Park of -Belle Isle, covering seven hundred acres, being to the northeastward, -with a good view over Lake St. Clair. Fort Wayne, the elaborate -defensive work of Detroit, is on the river just below the city, and -has a small garrison of regular troops. It is yet incomplete, and is -designed to be the most extensive fortification on the northern -frontier, commanding the important passage between Lakes Huron and -Erie and the railway routes east and west. - -The peninsula of Michigan was originally covered with the finest -forests, so that lumbering has always been a leading industry of the -people. The greater portion of its pine woods, however, has been cut -off, so that that branch is declining; but its ample supply of hard -woods has made the State a great manufacturer of furniture, which is -shipped all over the country. Thirty-eight miles west of Detroit, on -the Huron River, is the city of Ann Arbor, with a population of -fifteen thousand. Here are the extensive buildings of the University -of Michigan, the leading educational establishment of the northwest, -attended by over three thousand students, of whom a large number are -young women. It is richly endowed, and has departments of law and -medicine, as well as of literature and science, a large library and an -observatory. The State makes a liberal annual contribution for its -support, raised by taxation, it being governed by eight regents -elected by the people. At the northern extremity of the Michigan -Peninsula is the Strait of Mackinac, through which Lake Michigan -discharges into Lake Huron. This water way is about four miles wide. -In the strait is Mackinac Island, about nine miles in circumference, -which was early held by the French on account of its strategic -importance, but, being taken by the English in 1760, was captured by -Pontiac when he organized the Indian revolt against the British in -1763, and all its inhabitants massacred. It is now a military post and -reservation of the United States. This rocky and wooded island -contains much picturesque scenery, and is a favorite summer resort, -its weird legends, fresh breezes, good fishing and clear waters being -the attraction. It was an early post of the northwestern fur-traders, -and here was founded one of the frontier trading-stations of the Astor -Fur Company in the early nineteenth century by John Jacob Astor of New -York, the building in the little village being still known as the -Astor House. - - -LAKE SUPERIOR. - -To the northward of Mackinac, Lake Superior discharges into Lake Huron -through the Sault Sainte Marie Strait, the "Leap of St. Mary." This -strait of St. Mary is a winding and most beautiful stream, sixty-two -miles long, being a succession of expansions into lakes and -contractions into rivers, dotted with pretty islands and having some -villages on the banks. The chief attraction is the Sault, or "Leap," -which is a rapid of about eighteen feet descent, the navigation being -maintained through capacious modern systems of locks and ship canals -provided by both the United States and Canada. To the westward is the -great Lake Superior, the largest fresh-water lake on the globe, three -hundred and sixty miles long and covering thirty-two thousand square -miles, with a coast-line of about fifteen hundred miles. It is -elevated about six hundred feet above the ocean level, and has a depth -averaging one thousand feet. Nearly two hundred rivers and creeks flow -into it, draining a region of a hundred thousand square miles. There -are a few islands in the eastern and western portions, but all the -centre of the lake is a vast unbroken sheet of water, and generally of -a low temperature, the deeper waters being only 39 deg. in summer. The -early French missionaries, who were the first explorers, told their -interesting story of Lake Superior in Paris in 1636, and in their -published account speak of its coasts as resembling a bended bow, of -which the north shore makes the arc of the bow, the south shore the -chord, and the great Keweenaw Point, projecting far from the southern -shore, represents the arrow. Superior has generally a rock-bound -coast, displaying impressive beauties of scenery, particularly on the -northern shore, where the beetling crags and cliffs are projected -boldly into the lake along the water's edge. This northern coast is -also much indented by deep bays, bordered by precipitous cliffs, back -of which rise the dark and dreary Laurentian Mountains. There are also -rocky islands scattered near this portion of the coast, some -presenting vast castellated walls of basalt and others peaks of -granite, elevated a thousand to thirteen hundred feet above the lake. -Nowhere upon the inland waters of North America is there grander -scenery. - -The most considerable affluent of Lake Superior upon its northern -coast is the Nepigon River, coming grandly down cascades and rapids, -bringing the waters of Lake Nepigon, an elliptical lake among the -mountains to the northward covering about four thousand square miles, -bounded by high cliffs, and elevated over eight hundred feet. It is -studded with islands, has very deep waters, and receives various -streams from the remote northern wilderness. Upon the northwestern -shore of Lake Superior are gigantic cliffs, surrounding Thunder Bay, a -deep indentation divided from Black Bay by the great projecting -promontory of Thunder Cape, rising nearly fourteen hundred feet in -grand columns of basalt, the summit containing the crater of an -extinct volcano. Across from it is McKay Mountain, another basaltic -Gibraltar, rising twelve hundred feet from the almost level plain -bordering the bay. Pic Island is between them, guarding the entrance. -The pretty Kaministiquia River flows through rich prairie lands down -to Thunder Bay, and here is the chief Canadian town on the lake, Port -Arthur. Thirty miles up this river is the famous Kakabika Falls, where -the rocks are cleft so that the stream tumbles into a chasm one -hundred and thirty feet deep, and then boils along with rapid current -for nearly a half-mile through the fissure, the sides towering -perpendicularly, and in some places even overhanging their bases. Upon -this river was for many years the well-known Hudson Bay Company's -fur-trading station of Fort William, which now has grain elevators, -and is a suburb of the spreading settlement of Port Arthur. This was -the beginning of the great portage from Lake Superior over to the -Hudson Bay waters at Fort Garry, on the Red River in Manitoba, now -Winnipeg, the portage being the present route of the Canadian Pacific -Railway. - - -SAULT SAINTE MARIE TO DULUTH. - -The southern shore of Lake Superior is mostly composed of lowlands, -covered with sand, glacial deposits and clays, which came from the -lake during a former stage of much higher water, when it extended many -miles south of the present boundary. These lands, while not well -adapted to agriculture, contain rich deposits of copper, iron and -other metals and valuable red sandstones. Around the rapids and canals -at the outlet has gradually grown the town of Sault Sainte Marie, -familiarly known as the "Soo," having ten thousand people, and -developing important manufactures from the admirable water-power of -the rapids, which is also utilized for electrical purposes. An -international bridge brings a branch of the Canadian Pacific Railway -over from Canada, on its way to Minneapolis and St. Paul, with -connections southward to Chicago, and there is also the military post -of Fort Brady. Stately processions of vessels constantly move through -the canals, being locked up or down when the navigation season is -open, and making this a very animated place, over fifteen thousand -ships passing in the seven months when the canals are free from ice. -The tonnage is the greatest using any system of canals in the world, -far exceeding Suez, and the recent improvements enable vessels of -twenty-one feet draft to go through the new locks. Both Governments -have expended millions upon these important public works, which are -chiefly employed for the transport of grain, flour, coal, iron-ores -and copper. The favorite sports at the "Soo" are catching white fish -and "shooting the rapids" in canoes guided by the Indians, who are -very skillful. - -About one hundred miles westward from the "Soo," on the southern lake -shore, there rise cliffs of the red and other sandstones formed by the -edges of nearly horizontal strata coming out at the border of the -lake. These are the noted Pictured Rocks, rising three hundred feet, -extending for a distance of about five miles, and worn by frost and -storm into fantastic and romantic forms, displaying vivid hues--red, -blue, yellow, green, brown and gray--as they have been stained by the -oozing waters carrying the pigments. At intervals, cascades fall over -the rocks. One cliff, called the Sail Rock, is like a sloop in full -sail, and there are various castles and chapels, and an elaborate -Grand Portal. In the country around is laid much of the scene of -_Hiawatha_, and at the little lake port of Munising, nearby, was the -site of the wigwam of the old woman, Nokomis, - - "On the shores of Gitchee Gumee, - Of the shining Big-Sea-Water." - -To the westward is the region of iron-ores, and here is Marquette, -named for the great Jesuit missionary Father Marquette, who was the -first founder of mission settlements in this region, and died in 1675 -near the mouth of Marquette River. This town of fifteen thousand -people is on Iron Bay, and is the chief port of the Marquette, -Menominee and Ishpeming mines. Farther to the westward the great -Keweenaw Peninsula projects, the name meaning in the Indian dialect -the "canoe portage." At its base, the Portage Lake almost separates it -from the mainland, and a short portage to the westward formerly -carried the canoes over the narrow isthmus. A canal now enables the -lake shipping to pass through without making the long detour around -the outer end of the peninsula. Upon this rocky peninsula are the -great copper-mines of Michigan, including the Quincy, Tamarack, -Osceola, Franklin, Atlantic, and the Calumet and Hecla. The latter is -the world's leading Copper Company, making over $4,000,000 estimated -annual profit, employing five thousand men, and having the deepest -shaft in existence, the Red Jacket, which has been sunk forty-nine -hundred feet. Houghton, on the southern shore of Portage Lake, is the -leading town of the copper district. To the southwestward and in the -western part of the Upper Michigan Peninsula is Lake Gogebic, elevated -thirteen hundred feet, in another prolific iron-ore district, the -Gogebic range, which produces Bessemer ores, and has its shipping port -across the Wisconsin boundary at Ashland, another busy town of fifteen -thousand people at the head of Chequamegon Bay. Out in front are the -Apostle Islands, a picturesque group, and to the westward the head of -Lake Superior gradually narrows in the Fond du Lac, or end of the -lake, where are situated its leading ports, Superior City in Wisconsin -and Duluth in Minnesota. - -Here in the seventeenth century came the early French, and in 1680 a -trading-post was established by Daniel du Lhut, afterwards becoming a -Hudson Bay Company Station. The mouth of St. Louis River and its bay -were naturally recognized as important points for trade, and when the -Northern Pacific Railway was projected Superior City got its start. -The first railroad scheme failed, the panic of 1857 came, and the -railway project was abandoned until after the Civil War; and then, -when it was renewed, the terminus was located over on the other side -of the river, the place being named Duluth, after the French trader. -While there has been great rivalry between them, and Duluth has -outstripped Superior, yet the latter has an extensive trade and thirty -thousand people. Duluth, the "Zenith City of the Unsalted Seas," as it -has been ambitiously called, was originally projected on Minnesota -Point, a scythe-shaped natural breakwater running out seven miles into -the lake, which protects the harbor, but the town was subsequently -built farther in. There were about seventy white people in the -neighborhood in 1860, and in 1869 its present site was a forest, while -the railroad, which had many set-backs, had only brought about three -thousand people there in 1885. The completion of other railway -connections in various directions, the discovery of iron deposits, and -the recognition of its advantageous position for traffic, subsequently -gave Duluth rapid growth, so that it now has eighty thousand people, -and is the greatest port on the lake. It is finely situated, the -harbor being spacious and lined with docks and warehouses, and it has -many substantial buildings. Back of the city a terrace rises some four -hundred feet, an old shore line of Lake Superior when the water was at -much higher level, and here is the Boulevard Drive, giving splendid -views over the town and lake. The vast extent of wheat lands to the -westward and the prolific iron-ore district to the northward give -Duluth an enormous trade. Its railways lead up to the Messabi and -Vermillion ranges, now the greatest producers of Lake Superior -iron-ores, the red hematite, most of the output being controlled by -John D. Rockefeller and his associates. These mines yield the richest -ores in the world, and have made some of the greatest fortunes in -Duluth. Yet they were not discovered until 1891, and then the lands -where they are generally went begging, because nobody would give the -government price for them, $1.25 per acre. One forty-acre tract, then -abandoned by the man who took it up because he did not think the pine -wood on it was enough to warrant paying $50 for it, is now the -Mountain Iron Mine, netting Mr. Rockefeller $375,000 annual profit, -and his railroad bringing the ores out gets more than that sum for -freights. - - -THE CITY OF MILWAUKEE. - -The early French traders and explorers who came to the upper lakes -naturally ascended their affluents, and in this way La Salle, Joliet, -Hennepin and others crossed the portages beyond Lake Michigan to the -tributaries of the Mississippi. They came to Green Bay on the west -side of Lake Michigan, ascended the Fox River and crossed over to the -Wisconsin River. Southward from the Upper Michigan Peninsula and -westward of the lower peninsula of that State spreads the broad -expanse of Lake Michigan, stretching from Mackinac and Green Bay down -to Chicago. Its western shore is the State of Wisconsin, extending -northward to Lake Superior. When the French explorers came along and -floated down its chief river, an affluent of the Mississippi, the -latter making the western boundary of the State, they found the Indian -name of the stream to be a word which, according to the pronunciation, -they spelled in their early narratives "Ouisconsing" and "Misconsin," -and it finally came out in the present form of Wisconsin, thus naming -the State. The original meaning was the "wild, rushing red water," -from the hue given by the pine and tamarack forests. La Salle coasted -in his canoe all along the western shore of Lake Michigan, from Green -Bay down to Chicago, and crossed over to the Mississippi. The traders -established various settlements on that shore which have grown into -active cities, and the principal one, eighty-five miles north of -Chicago, is Milwaukee, its name derived from the Indian Mannawahkie, -meaning the "good land." A broad harbor, indented several miles from -the lake, was the nucleus of the city, at the mouth of Milwaukee -River, which receives two tributaries within the town, and thus adds -to the facilities for dockage, while extensive breakwaters protect the -harbor entrance from lake storms. - -Milwaukee has three hundred and fifty thousand people, and is the -growth mainly of the latter half of the nineteenth century. It is -finely located, with undulating surface, the streets lined with trees, -and the splendid development of the residential section making it -almost like an extensive park, the foliage and garden spaces are so -extensive and attractive. Its population is largely German, and its -breweries are famous, exporting their product all over the country. It -has a grand Federal building, costing nearly $2,000,000, a Romanesque -structure in granite, an elaborate Court-house of brown sandstone, a -spacious City Hall, a magnificent Public Library and Museum, and many -attractive churches and other edifices. Juneau Park, on a bluff -overlooking the lake, commemorates the first settler, Solomon Juneau, -and contains his statue. Here, in compliment to the large Scandinavian -population of Wisconsin, is also a statue of Leif Ericsen, who is said -to have been in command of the first detachment of Norsemen who landed -in New England in the eleventh century. The Forest Home Cemetery at -the southwestern verge of the city is one of the most beautiful in the -country. Milwaukee is familiarly called the "Cream City" from the -light-colored brick made in the neighborhood, which so largely enter -into the construction of its buildings. It has extensive grain -elevators and flour mills and large manufacturing industries. To the -westward, in a park of four hundred acres, is the National Soldiers' -Home, with accommodation for twenty-four hundred. Its Sheridan Drive -along the lake shore southward is gradually extending, the intention -being to connect with the Sheridan Boulevard constructed northward -from Chicago. The lion of the city, however, is the great Pabst -Brewery, covering thirty-four acres and producing eight hundred -thousand barrels of beer a year. Twenty miles inland to the westward -is a favorite resort of the Milwaukeans, the noted Bethesda Spring of -Waukesha, whose waters they find it beneficial to take copiously, -large quantities being also exported throughout America and Europe for -their efficacy in diabetes and Bright's disease. - -The capital of Wisconsin is the city of Madison, seventy-five miles -west of Milwaukee, built on the isthmus between Lakes Mendota and -Monona, thus giving it an admirable position. It has about twenty -thousand people, and the lake attractions make it a popular summer -resort. The State Capitol is a handsome building in a spacious park, -one of the wings being occupied by the Wisconsin Historical Society, -with a library of two hundred thousand volumes, an art gallery and -museum. The great structure of Madison is the University of Wisconsin, -the buildings in a commanding position on University Hill overlooking -the charming Lake Mendota. There are seventeen hundred students, and -its Washburn Observatory, one of the best in America, has wide fame. - - -ASCENDING THE MISSISSIPPI. - -Westward from Lake Michigan all the railroads are laid across the -prairie land _en route_ to various cities on the Mississippi River, -several of them having St. Paul and Minneapolis for their objective -points, although some go by quite roundabout ways. The great "Father -of Waters" comes from Northern Minnesota, flows over the Falls of St. -Anthony at Minneapolis, and is a river of much scenic attractiveness -down to Dubuque and Rock Island, its width being usually about three -thousand feet, excepting at the bends, which are wider, the -picturesque bluffs enclosing the valley sometimes rising six hundred -feet high. The railways leading to it traverse the monotonous level of -prairie in Illinois and Wisconsin, excepting where a stream may make a -gorge, and the face of the country is everywhere almost the same. The -Moline Rapids in the Mississippi above Rock Island afford good -water-power, and here the Government, owning the island, has -established a large arsenal, which is the base for all the western -army supplies. The admirable location has made cities on either bank, -Rock Island in Illinois and Davenport in Iowa, both being commercial -and manufacturing centres, and the latter city having the larger -population. The Mississippi flows through a rather wide valley, with -pleasant shores, having villas dotted on their slopes. The Moline -Rapids, which are said to have a water-power rivalling the aggregate -of all the cataracts in New England, descend twenty-two feet in a -distance of fourteen miles. Above them, the river flows between -Illinois and Iowa, and various flourishing towns are passed, the -largest being Dubuque, with fifty thousand people, the chief -industrial city of Iowa, and a centre of the lead and zinc manufacture -of the Galena district. This was the first settlement made by white -men in Iowa, the city being named for Julien Dubuque, a French trader, -who came in 1788 with a small party to work the lead-mines. Iowa is -known as the "Hawkeye State," and its name is of Dakotan Indian -derivation, meaning "drowsy," which, however, is hardly the proper -basis for naming such a wide-awake Commonwealth. Opposite Dubuque is -the northern boundary of Illinois, and above, the Mississippi -separates Iowa from Wisconsin. - -The Mississippi bordering bluffs now rise much higher and become more -picturesque, Eagle Point, near Dubuque, being elevated three hundred -feet. Prairie du Chien, just above the mouth of Wisconsin River, was -one of the earliest French military posts. This region was the scene -of the "Black Hawk War," that chief of the Sacs battling to get back -certain lands which in 1832 had been ceded by the Sac and Fox Indians -to the United States. He was finally defeated back of the western -river shore, the boundary between Iowa and Minnesota being nearby. -Minnesota is the "North Star State," and its Indian name, taken from -the river, flowing into the Mississippi above St. Paul, means the -"cloudy water." The river scenery becomes more and more picturesque as -the Mississippi is ascended, the bluffs rising to higher elevations. -La Crosse is a great lumber manufacturing town, drawing its timber -from both Minnesota and Wisconsin. Above, where islands dot the -channel, is perhaps the most beautiful section of the river. -Trempealeau Island, five hundred feet high, commands a magnificent -view, and the Black River flows in through a splendid gorge. Winona is -a prominent grain-shipping town, and at Wabasha the river expands into -the beautiful Lake Pepin, thirty miles long and from three to five -miles wide, with attractive shores and many popular resorts. Over the -lake rise the bold round headland of Point No Point on one side and -the Maiden Rock on the other. St. Croix River flows in above on the -eastern bank, making an enlargement known as St. Croix Lake, and the -upper Mississippi is now wholly within Minnesota, having here at the -head of navigation the famous "Twin Cities" of St. Paul and -Minneapolis. - - -THE FALLS OF ST. ANTHONY - -Father Hennepin was the first white man who penetrated the wilds of -Minnesota, and in 1680 he discovered the great falls of the -Mississippi River, to which he gave the name of his patron saint, -Anthony of Padua. The river just below the falls naturally attracted -the attention of the French adventurers who came to trade with the -Sioux, Chippewas and Dakotas, and the first white man who tarried and -built a house here was a Canadian voyageur, who came in 1838. In 1841 -a French priest established the Roman Catholic mission of St. Paul on -the bank of the river, and thus the settlement was named. The -admirable water-power of the falls, which, with their two miles of -rapids, descend seventy-eight feet, afterwards attracted the attention -of millers, lumbermen and other manufacturers, and this made the -settlement of Minneapolis, ten miles westward and farther up the -river, which began in 1849, the name meaning the "city of the waters." -St. Paul grew with rapidity, being encouraged both by steamboat and -afterwards by railway traffic; but Minneapolis, though started later, -subsequently outstripped it. The two places, rivals yet friends, have -extended towards each other, so as to almost form one large city, and -they now have over four hundred thousand inhabitants. These "Twin -Cities" are running a rapid race in prosperity, each independently of -the other. St. Paul is rather more of a trading city, while -Minneapolis is an emporium of sawmills and the greatest flour-mills in -the world. Both are admirably located upon the bluffs rising above the -Mississippi. St. Paul is situated upon a series of ornamental -semicircular terraces that are very attractive, though in some -portions rather circumscribed. Minneapolis is built on a more -extensive plan upon an esplanade overlooking the falls, and extending -to an island in midstream, and also over upon the opposite northern -side of the river. The Falls of St. Anthony is the most powerful -waterfall in the United States wholly applied to manufacturing -purposes. The entire current of the Mississippi comes down the rapids -and over the falls, the latter having a descent of about fifty feet. -It is protected by a wall built by the Government across the river, to -prevent the wearing away of the sandstone formation, there having been -serious inroads made, while the surface is covered with an apron of -planks over which the water runs, with sluiceways alongside to shoot -logs down. However much Father Hennepin may have admired the beauties -of this great cataract, there is no longer anything picturesque about -the Falls of St. Anthony. Logs jam the upper river, where the booms -catch them for the sawmills, and subterranean channels conduct the -water in various directions to the mills, and discharge their foaming -streams below. There is no romance in the rumble of flour-rollers and -the buzz of saws, but they mean a great deal of profitable business. -The force exerted by the falls at low water is estimated at one -hundred and thirty-five thousand horse-power. - -St. Paul is the capital of Minnesota, and the State is building a -magnificent new Capitol, constructed of granite and marble, with a -lofty central dome, at a cost exceeding $2,000,000. There is a fine -City Hall and many imposing and substantial business edifices. Its -especial residence street, Summit Avenue, is upon a high ridge, -parallel with and some distance back from the Mississippi, the chief -dwelling, a large brownstone mansion, being the home of the leading -railroad prince of the Northwest, President James J. Hill of the Great -Northern Railroad. Here is also the new and spacious Roman Catholic -Seminary of St. Thomas Aquinas. The old military post of Fort Snelling -is on the river above St. Paul, near the mouth of Minnesota River. In -Minneapolis, the great building is the City Hall, completed in 1896, -and having a tower rising three hundred and fifty feet, giving a -superb view. The Guaranty Loan Company's Building is one of the finest -office structures in America, with its roof arranged for a garden, -where concerts are given. Minneapolis has a widely extended -residential section, with hundreds of attractive mansions in -ornamental grounds. Near the river bank is the University of -Minnesota, having well-equipped buildings and attended by twenty-eight -hundred students. - -Minneapolis is the greatest flour manufacturing city in the world. Its -mills, of which there are some twenty-five, are located along the -river near the falls, and have a daily capacity of over sixty -thousand barrels, turning out about eighteen millions of barrels -annually, which are sent all over the globe. The whole country west -and northwest of Minneapolis, including the Red River Valley, the -Dakotas and Manitoba, is practically a fertile wheat field, growing -the finest grain that is produced in America, and this makes the -prosperity of the city. The Pillsbury-Washburn Flour Mills Company are -the leading millers. The great Pillsbury A mill, which turns out ten -thousand seven hundred barrels a day, is the world's champion -flour-mill. It is a marvel of the economical manufacture, the railway -cars coming in laden with wheat, being quickly emptied, and then -filled with loaded flour-barrels and sacks for shipment. Machinery -does practically everything from the shovelling of wheat out of the -car to the packing of the barrel or sack with the product. This huge -mill stands in relation to the flour trade as Niagara does to -waterfalls. The other great Minneapolis industry is the lumber trade. -Minnesota is well timbered, a belt of fine forests, chiefly pine, -stretching across it, known as the _Coteau des Bois_, or "Big Woods," -an elevated plateau with a rolling surface, having thousands of lakes -scattered through it, fed by springs, while their outlets go into -streams feeding the Mississippi, down which the logs are floated to -the booms above the falls. The extensive sawmills will cut over four -hundred and fifty millions of feet of lumber in a year. Thus the flour -and lumber have become the chief articles of export from Minneapolis. - -There are several pleasant lakes in the neighborhood, which are -popular resorts of the people of the "Twin Cities," the largest and -most famous being Minnetonka, the Indian name meaning the "Big Water." -It is a pretty lake, at nearly a thousand feet elevation, with low, -winding and tree-clad shores, having little islets dotted over its -surface, and myriads of indented bays and jutting peninsulas which -extend its shore line to over a hundred miles, though the extreme -length of the lake is barely seventeen miles. There are many -attractive places on the shores and islands, and large steamers ply on -its bosom. From this lake the discharge is through the Minnehaha -River, and its Minnehaha Falls, the "Laughing Water," poetically -praised by Longfellow in Hiawatha. The beautiful glen in which this -graceful cataract is found has been made a park. The falls are about -fifty feet high, and a critical observer has recorded that there is -"only wanting a little more water to be one of the most picturesque -cascades in the country." Below the Minnehaha Falls is another on a -smaller scale, which the people thereabout have nicknamed the -"Minnegiggle." Thus sings Longfellow of Minnehaha: - - "Homeward now went Hiawatha; - Only once his pace he slackened, - Only once he paused or halted, - Paused to purchase heads of arrows - Of the ancient Arrow-maker, - In the land of the Dacotahs, - Where the Falls of Minnehaha - Flash and gleam among the oak-trees, - Laugh and leap into the valley. - "There the ancient Arrow-maker - Made his arrow-heads of sandstone, - Arrow-heads of chalcedony, - Arrow-heads of flint and jasper, - Smoothed and sharpened at the edges, - Hard and polished, keen and costly. - "With him dwelt his dark-eyed daughter, - Wayward as the Minnehaha, - With her moods of shade and sunshine, - Eyes that smiled and frowned alternate, - Feet as rapid as the river, - Tresses flowing like the water, - And as musical a laughter; - And he named her from the river, - From the water-fall he named her, - Minnehaha, Laughing Water. - "Was it then for heads of arrows, - Arrow-heads of chalcedony, - Arrow-heads of flint and jasper, - That my Hiawatha halted - In the land of the Dacotahs? - "Was it not to see the maiden, - See the face of Laughing Water, - Peeping from behind the curtain, - Hear the rustling of her garments, - From behind the waving curtain, - As one sees the Minnehaha - Gleaming, glancing through the branches, - As one hears the Laughing Water, - From behind its screen of branches? - "Who shall say what thoughts and visions - Fill the fiery brains of young men? - Who shall say what dreams of beauty - Filled the heart of Hiawatha? - All he told to old Nokomis, - When he reached the lodge at sunset, - Was the meeting with his father, - Was his fight with Mudjekeewis; - Not a word he said of arrows, - Not a word of Laughing Water." - - -THE SOURCE OF THE MISSISSIPPI. - -It was in Minnesota, in 1862, that the terrible Indian uprising -occurred in which the Sioux, exasperated by the encroachments of the -whites, attacked the western frontier settlements in August, and in -less than two days massacred eight hundred people. The troops were -sent as soon as possible, attacked and defeated them in two battles, -and thirty-eight of the Indians were executed on one scaffold at -Mankato, on the Minnesota River southwest of Minneapolis, in December. -The State of Minnesota is said to contain fully ten thousand lakes of -all sizes, the largest being Red Lake in the northern wilderness, -having an area of three hundred and forty square miles. The surface of -the State rises into what is known as the Itascan plateau in the -northern central part at generally about seventeen hundred and fifty -feet elevation. From this plateau four rivers flow out in various -directions--the one on the Western Minnesota boundary, the Red River -of the North, draining the western slope towards Lake Winnipeg and -finally to Hudson Bay; the Rainy River, draining the northern slope -also through Lake Winnipeg to Hudson Bay; the St. Louis River, flowing -eastward to form the head of Lake Superior, and going thence to the -Atlantic; and the Mississippi River, flowing southward to seek the -Gulf of Mexico. Schoolcraft, the Indian ethnologist and explorer, -named this Itascan plateau, and the little lake in its heart, where -the Mississippi takes its rise, about two hundred miles -north-northwest of Minneapolis, though the roundabout course of the -river from its source to that city is a much longer distance, flowing -nearly a thousand miles. There was a good deal of discussion as to -whether this lake was really the head of the great river, as the lake -received several small streams, but Schoolcraft settled the dispute, -and named the lake Itasca, from a contraction of the Latin words -_veritas caput_, the "true head." Its elevation is about sixteen -hundred feet, being surrounded by pine-clad hills rising a hundred -feet higher. Out of Itasca Lake the "Father of Waters" flows with a -breadth of about twelve feet, and a depth ordinarily of less than two -feet. It goes at first northerly, and then makes a grand curve through -a long chain of lakes, describing a large semicircle to the eastward, -and finally southwest, before it becomes settled as to direction, and -takes its southeast course towards the Falls of St. Anthony, and -onward in its grand progress to the Gulf. - - -THE ANCIENT LAKE AGASSIZ. - -The Minnesota River, rising on the western boundary of the State, -flows nearly five hundred miles in a deeply carved valley through the -"Big Woods" to the Mississippi. Its source is in the Big Stone Lake, -which, with Lake Traverse to the northward, forms part of the Dakota -boundary. The Red River of the North, rising in Lake Traverse and -gathering together the streams on the western slope of the Itascan -plateau, flows northward between Minnesota and North Dakota, and into -Manitoba, two hundred and fifty miles to Lake Winnipeg. This river has -cut its channel in a nearly level plain, and it is curious that in -times of freshet its waters connect, through Lakes Traverse and the -Big Stone, with the Minnesota, so that steamboats of light draught can -then occasionally pass from the Mississippi waters north to Lake -Winnipeg. It was this rich and level plain of the valley of the Red -River that in the glacial epoch formed the bed of a vast lake which -scientists have named Lake Agassiz. Its area, as indicated by -well-marked shore-lines and deltas, was a hundred miles wide and over -four hundred miles long, stretching far into Manitoba, and the waters -were two to four hundred feet deep. It was held up on the north by the -retreating ice-sheet of the great glacier, the outlet being southward, -where a channel fifty feet deep, fifty miles long and over a mile -wide can now be distinctly traced leading its outflow into the -Minnesota River, whose valley its floods then greatly enlarged on the -way to the Mississippi. The plain of this lake bed is almost level, -descending towards the northward about a foot to the mile, and here -the ancient lake deposited the thick, rich, black soils which have -made the greatest wheat-growing region of North America. - -The first settlement of Dakota was on the Big Sioux River at Sioux -Falls, where flour-mills and other manufacturing establishments have -gathered around a fine water-power, and there are nearly fifty -thousand people in the two towns of Sioux Falls in South Dakota and -Sioux City in Iowa. The whole region to the northward and far over the -Canadian boundary is a land of wheat-fields, with grain elevators -dotting the flat prairie at the railway stations, for all the roads -have lines to tap the lucrative trade of this prolific region. The -Northern Pacific Railway crosses Red River at Fargo, which, with the -town of Moorhead, both being wheat and flour centres, has a population -of fifteen thousand. To the westward are the vast "Bonanza" wheat -farms of Dakota, of which the best known is the Dalrymple farm, -covering forty-five thousand acres. Steam-ploughs make continuous -furrows for many miles in the cultivation, and in the spring the -seeding is done. The whole country is covered with a vast expanse of -waving, yellow grain in the summer, and the harvest comes in August. -To the westward flows James River through a similar district, and the -country beyond rises into the higher plateau stretching to the -Missouri. This fertile wheat-growing region extends far northward over -the Canadian border forming the Province of Manitoba, the name coming -from Lake Manitoba, which in the Cree Indian dialect means the "home -of Manitou, the Great Spirit." Its enormous wheat product makes the -business of the flouring-mills of Minneapolis, Duluth and many other -cities, and furnishes a vast stream of grain to go through the Soo -Canal down the lakes and St. Lawrence, much being exported to Europe. - -The Canadian Pacific Railway, which provides the traffic outlet for -Manitoba, comes from the northern shore of Lake Superior at Port -Arthur northwestward up the valley of the Kaministiquia River, and its -tributary the Wabigoon, the Indian "Stream of the Lilies." This was -the ancient portage, and by this trail and Winnipeg River, the canoe -route of the Hudson Bay Company voyageurs, Lord Wolseley led the -British army in 1870 to Fort Garry (Winnipeg) that suppressed Louis -Riel's French-Indian half-breed rebellion, which had possession of the -post. The railway route is through an extensive forest, and leads near -the northern shore of the Lake of the Woods, crossing its outlet -stream at Rat Portage, so named from the numerous colonies of -muskrats, a town of sawmills standing at the rocky rim of the lake, -where its waters break through and down rapids of twenty feet fall to -seek Winnipeg River, the Ounipigon or "muddy water" of the Crees. -Here, and at Keewatin beyond, are grand water-powers, the latter -having mammoth mills that grind the Manitoba wheat and send the flour -to England. Then, emerging from the forests, the railway crosses the -rich black soils of the Red River Valley, and beyond that river enters -Winnipeg, the "Prairie City" and commercial metropolis of the Canadian -Northwest. For nearly eight hundred miles this alluvial region spreads -west and northwest of Winnipeg, with varying degrees of fertility, to -the Rocky Mountains. Here, at the junction of the Assiniboine River, -coming from the remote northwest, with Red River, has grown a Canadian -Chicago of fifty thousand people, developed almost as if by magic, -from the little settlement of two hundred and forty souls, whom -Wolseley found in 1870, around what was then regarded as the distant -Hudson Bay Company frontier post of Fort Garry. Its original name when -first established was Fort Gibraltar. The two rivers wander crookedly -over the flat land, and between them the city covers an extensive -surface. A half-dozen railways radiate in various directions, and -there are spacious car-yards and stations. Winnipeg has an energetic -population, largely Scotch and Americans, but with picturesque touches -given by the copper-colored Indians and French half-breeds, who wander -about in their native costumes, though most of these have gone away -from Red River Valley to the far Northwest. The city has good streets, -many fine buildings and attractive stores. The Manitoba Government -Buildings adjoin the Assiniboine River, and the military barracks of -Fort Osborne are alongside. Near the junction of the rivers is the -little stone gateway left standing, which is almost all that remains -of the original trading-post buildings of Fort Garry, representing the -venerable Hudson Bay Company, chartered by King Charles II. in 1670, -that controlled the whole vast empire of the Canadian Northwest. This -Company was a grant by the king originally to Prince Rupert and a few -associates of a monopoly of the fur trade over a vast territory in -North America, extending from Lake Superior to Hudson Bay and the -Pacific Ocean. In this way that portion of British America came to be -popularly known in England as "Prince Rupert's Land." The great -Company existed for nearly two hundred years, had one hundred and -fifty-two trading-posts, and employed three thousand traders, agents -and voyageurs, and many thousands of Indians. In the bartering with -the red men, the unit of account was the beaver skin, which was the -equivalent of two martens or twenty muskrats, while the pelt of a -silver fox was five times as valuable as a beaver. In 1869, when the -Dominion of Canada was formed, England bought the sovereignty of the -Company for $1,500,000 and transferred its territory to Canada. The -Company still retains its posts and stores, however, and conducts -throughout the Northwest a mercantile business. Far to the westward of -Winnipeg spread the fertile prairies of Manitoba and Assiniboia -Provinces, until they gradually blend into the rounded and -grass-covered foothills making the grazing ranges of Alberta that -finally rise into the snow-capped peaks of the Rockies. - - -DAKOTA AND MONTANA. - -Three railways are constructed westward from Red River to the Rockies -and Pacific Ocean,--the Northern Pacific and Great Northern in the -United States and the Canadian Pacific beyond the international -boundary. The former cross the plateau to the Upper Missouri River, -and there the Northern Pacific route reaches Bismarck, the capital of -North Dakota, having a fine Capitol set on a hill, the corner-stone of -which was laid in 1883, with the noted Sioux chief Sitting Bull -assisting. This region not so long ago knew only soldiers and Indians; -but there has since been a great influx of white settlers, enforcing -the idea of which Whittier has significantly written: - - "Behind the squaw's birch-bark canoe, - The steamer smokes and raves; - And city lots are staked for sale - Above old Indian graves." - -The frontier army post of Fort Lincoln on the bluff alongside the -river testifies to the time not yet remote when the Sioux and Crow -Indians of the Dakotas needed a good deal of military control. The -deer, buffalo and antelope then roamed these boundless prairies, but -they have all disappeared. Beyond the Missouri River is the region of -the Dakota "Bad Lands." The surface rises into sharp conical -elevations known as "buttes," and soon this curious district of -pyramidal hills known as Pyramid Park is entered, fire and water -having had a remarkable effect upon them. Their red sides are furrowed -by the rains, and smoke issues from some of the crevices. The lignite -and coal deposits underlying this country have produced subterranean -fires that burnt the clays above until they became brittle and red. -There are ashes and scoriae in patches, and cinders looking much like -the outcast of an iron furnace. The buttes are at times isolated and -sometimes in rows, many being of large size. Their sides are often -terraced regularly, and frequently into fantastic shapes, occasionally -appearing as the sloping ramparts of a fort. There are frequent -pot-like holes among them, filled with reddish, brackish water, and -sometimes excavated in the ground with regularly square-cut edges. -When the railway route cuts into a butte, its interior is disclosed as -a pile of red-burnt clay fragments mixed with ashes and sand. Little -prairie dogs dodge in and out of their holes, but there is not much -else of life. The boundary is crossed into Montana, and the "Bad -Lands" gradually give place to a grazing section. Here stands up the -great Sentinel Butte, with its reddish-yellow sides, near the Montana -border, and the railway route then descends from the higher region to -the valley of the Yellowstone. - -The Yellowstone River, one of the headwaters of the Missouri, rises in -the National Park, and its fertile valley is among the leading -pasturages of Montana. Cattle and sheep abound, and the cowboys are -universal, galloping about on energetic little bronchos, with lariats -hanging from the saddle. The Big Horn River flows in, and an extensive -region to the southward is the Crow Indian reservation, about three -thousand living there. It was here, near Fort Custer, at a point -forty-five miles south of the railroad, that the terrible massacre -took place in June, 1876, by which General Custer and his command of -over two hundred and fifty men were annihilated by the Sioux. There is -now a national cemetery at the place. We gradually enter the mountain -ranges which are the outposts of the Rockies, and passing between the -Yellowstone range and the Belt Mountains, reach Livingston, a town of -several thousand people, and a great centre for hunting and fishing, -at the entrance to the Yellowstone National Park. From here a branch -railway turns southward, ascending the valley of the Yellowstone, -going through its first canyon, known as the "Gate of the Mountain," -an impressive rocky gorge, and ascending a steep grade, so that the -floor of the valley rises within the Park to an elevation of over six -thousand feet above the sea. A second canyon is passed, and on its -western side is a huge peak whose upheaved red rocks have named it the -Cinnabar Mountain. These red rocks are in strata streaked down its -sides with intervening granite and limestone. One of these, the -Devil's Slide, is conspicuous, its quartzite walls rising high above -the lower strata and making a veritable slide of great proportions -down the mountain. The railroad ends at Cinnabar, and stages cover the -remaining distance up the Yellowstone to its confluence with Gardiner -River at the Park entrance, and thence to the Mammoth Hot Springs -within the Park, the tourist headquarters. - - -THE AMERICAN WONDERLAND. - -The Yellowstone National Park has been set apart by Congress as a -public reservation and pleasure-ground, and covers a surface of about -fifty-five hundred square miles within the Rocky Mountains. Most of -the Park is in the northwestern corner of Wyoming, but there are also -small portions in Montana to the north and Idaho to the west. It is a -tract more remarkable for natural curiosities than an equal area in -any other part of the world, and within it are the sources of some of -the greatest rivers of North America. The Yellowstone, Gardiner and -Madison Rivers, which are the headwaters of the Missouri, flow out of -the northern and western sides, while on the southern side originates -the Snake River, one of the sources of the Columbia River of Oregon, -and also the Green River, a branch of the Colorado, flowing into the -Gulf of California. The central portion of the Park is a broad -volcanic plateau, elevated, on an average, eight thousand feet above -the sea, and surrounded by mountain ridges and peaks, rising to nearly -twelve thousand feet, and covered with snow. The air is pure and -bracing, little rain falls, and the whole district gives evidence of -remarkable volcanic activity at a comparatively late geological epoch. -It contains the most elevated lake in the world, Yellowstone Lake. The -Yellowstone River flows into this lake, and then northward through a -magnificent canyon out of the Park. Its most remarkable tributary -within the Park is Tower Creek, flowing through a narrow and gloomy -pass for two miles, called the Devil's Den, and just before reaching -the Yellowstone having a fall of one hundred and fifty-six feet, which -is surrounded by columns of breccia resembling towers. There is frost -in the Park every month in the year, owing to the peculiar atmospheric -conditions. The traces of recent volcanic activity are seen in the -geysers, craters and terrace constructions, boiling springs, deep -canyons, petrified trees, obsidian cliffs, sulphur deposits and -similar formations. These geysers and springs surpass in number and -magnitude those of the rest of the world. There are some five -thousand hot springs, depositing mainly lime and silica, and over a -hundred large geysers, many of them throwing water columns to heights -of from fifty to two hundred and fifty feet. The most elaborate colors -and ornamentation are formed by the deposits of the springs and -geysers, these curiosities being mainly in and near the valleys of the -Madison and Gardiner Rivers. An attempt has been made under Government -auspices to have in the Park a huge game preserve, and within its -recesses large numbers of wild animals are sheltered, including deer, -elk, bears, big-horn sheep, and the last herd of buffalo in the -country. Troops of cavalry and other Government forces patrol and -govern the Park. - - -THE MAMMOTH HOT SPRINGS. - -This extraordinary region was first made known in a way in 1807. A -hunter named Coulter visited it, and getting safely back to -civilization, he told such wonderful stories of the hot springs and -geysers that the unbelieving borderers, in derision, called it -"Coulter's Hell." Others visited it subsequently, but their remarkable -tales were generally regarded as romances. The first thorough -exploration was made by Prof. Hayden's scientific party for the -Government in 1871, and his report led Congress to reserve it as a -public Park. The visitor generally first enters the Park at the -Mammoth Hot Springs, which are near the northern verge of the broad -central plateau. Here are the wonderful terraces built up by the -earlier calcareous deposits of these Springs, covering an area of -several square miles, and in the present active operations about two -hundred acres, with a dozen or more terraces, and some seventy flowing -springs, the temperature of the water rising to 165 deg. The lower -terrace extends to the edge of the gorge of Gardiner River, with high -mountain peaks beyond. The hotel is built on one of the terraces, with -yawning caves and the craters of extinct geysers at several places in -front. The higher terraces rise in white, streaked with brown and -other tints, as the overflowing, trickling waters may have colored -them. The best idea that can be got of this place is by conjuring up -the popular impression of the infernal regions with an ample stock of -heat and brimstone. For a long distance, rising from the top of the -gorge of Gardiner River westward in successive terraces to a height of -a thousand feet above the stream, the entire surface is underlaid with -sulphur, subterranean fires, boiling water and steam, which make their -way out in many places. The earth has been cracked by the heat into -fissures, within which the waters can be heard boiling and running -down below, and everything on the surface which can be, is burnt up. -Almost every crevice exudes steam and hot water; sulphur hangs in -stalactites from the caves; and in some places the odors are nearly -overpowering. It is no wonder the Indians avoided this forbidding -region, and that the tales told by the early explorers were -disbelieved. Yet it is as attractive as it is startling. The hot -springs form shallow pools, where the waters run daintily over their -rim-like edges, trickling down upon terrace after terrace, forming the -most beautiful shapes of columns, towers and coral decorations from -the lime deposits, and painting them with delicious coloring in red, -brown, green, yellow, blue and pink. So long as the waters run, this -decoration continues, but when the flow ceases, the atmosphere turns -everything white, and the more delicate formations crumble. The whole -of this massive structure has been built up by ages of the steady -though minute deposits of the waters, the rate being estimated at -about one-sixteenth of an inch in four days. The rocks upon which -these calcareous deposits are made belong to the middle and lower -Cretaceous and Jurassic formations, with probably carboniferous -limestones beneath that put the deposits in the waters. A dozen -different terraces can be traced successively upward from the river -bank to the highest part of the formation. Two cones of extinct -geysers rise from the deposits, near the hotel,--the Liberty Cap, -forty-five feet high, and the Giant's Thumb, somewhat smaller,--both -having been built up by the deposits from orifices still seen in their -tops, whence the waters have ceased flowing. All these springs, as -deposits are made, shift their locality, so that the scene gradually -changes as the ages pass. - -In climbing about this remarkable formation, some of the most -beautiful bits of construction and coloring nature has ever produced -are disclosed. The Orange Geyser has its sides streaked with orange, -yellow and red from the little wavelets slowly trickling out of the -steaming spring at the top, which goes off at quick intervals like the -exhaust of a steam-engine. At the Stalactite Cave the flowing waters -add green to the other colors, and also scale the rocks in places like -the back of a fish, while below hang stalactites with water dropping -from them. The roof of the cave is full of beautiful formations. The -water is very hot when it starts from the top, but becomes quite cold -when it has finished its journey down. One of the finest formations is -Cleopatra's Bath, with Cupid's Cave beneath, the way to them being -through Antony's Gate, all built up of the deposits. Here rich -coloring is painted on the rocks, with hot water and steam amply -supplied to the bath, which has 154 deg. temperature at the outer verge. -All the springs form flat basins with turned-up edges, over which the -waters flow, and trickling down the front of the terrace, paint it. -When the flow ceases, and the surface has been made snowy white by the -atmosphere, it becomes a spongy and beautiful coral, crumbling when -touched, and into which the foot sinks when walked upon. The -aggregation of the currents run in streams over terrace after -terrace, spread out to the width of hundreds of feet, painting them -all, and then seeking the Gardiner River, flowing through a deep gorge -in front of the formation. Everything subjected to the overflow of -these currents gets coated by the deposits, so that visitors have many -small articles coated to carry away as curiosities. - -Among the many beautiful formations made by these Hot Springs, the -most elaborate and ornamental are the Pulpit Terraces. These are a -succession of magnificent terraces, fifty feet high, with beautifully -colored columnar supports. There is a large pulpit, and in front, on a -lower level, the font, with the water running over its edges. The -pulpit, having been formed by a spring that has ceased action, is -white, while the font is streaked in red and brown. Finely carved -vases filled with water stand below, and alongside the pulpit there is -an inclined surface, whitened and spread in wrinkles like the drifted -snow, which requires very little imagination to picture as a -magnificent curtain. Beyond is a blackened border like a second -curtain, the coloring being made by a spring impregnated with arsenic. -In front of this gorgeous display the surface is hot and cracked into -fissures, with bubbling streams of steaming water running through it, -and great pools fuming into new basins with turned-up edges, over -which the hot water runs. Upon one of these pools seems to be a -deposit of transparent gelatine, looking like the albumen of an egg, -streaked into fantastic shapes by elongated bubbles. Everywhere are -surfaces, over which the water runs, that are covered with regular -formations like fish scales. It is impossible to adequately describe -this extraordinary place, combining the supposed peculiarities and -terrors of the infernal regions with the most beautiful forms and -colors in decoration. The great hill made by these Hot Springs was, -from its prevailing color, named the White Mountain by Hayden. The -springs extend all the way down to the river bank, and there are some -even in the river bed. It is a common experiment of the angler to hook -a small fish in the cold water of the river, and then, without -changing position, to swing him on the hook over into the basin of one -of these hot springs to cook him. The formation of the terraces is -wedge-shaped, and runs up into a gulch between the higher mountains, -which have pines scattered over them, and also grow some grass in -sheltered nooks. It is said that the volume of the springs is -gradually diminishing. - - -THE NORRIS GEYSER BASIN. - -The route southward into the Park crosses mountain ridges and over -stretches of lava and ashes and other volcanic formations, through -woods and past gorges, and reaches the Obsidian Creek, which flows -near the Obsidian Cliff. This remarkable structure is a mountain of -black glass of volcanic formation, rising six hundred feet, with the -road hewn along its edge. It looks as if a series of blasting -explosions had blown its face into pieces, smashing the glass into -great heaps of _debris_ that have fallen down in front. The formation -is columnar, rising from a morass adjoining Beaver Lake, which is a -mile long. The divide is thus crossed between the Gardiner and Gibbon -Rivers, the latter flowing into the Madison, and here, twenty-five -miles from the Mammoth Hot Springs, is the Norris Geyser Basin. In -approaching, seen over the low trees, the place looks much like the -manufacturing quarter of a city, steam jets rising out of many -orifices, and a hissing being heard as of sundry engine exhausts. The -basin covers about one hundred and fifty acres, and is depressed below -the general level. The whole surface is lime, silica, sulphur and -sand, fused together and baked hard by the great heat, cracked into -fissures, and, as it is walked over, giving out hollow sounds, showing -that beneath are subterranean caves and passages in which boil huge -cauldrons. There is a background formed by the bleak-looking mountains -of the Quadrate range, having snow upon their tops and sides. The -steam blows off with the noise of a hundred exhaust pipes, and little -geysers boil everywhere, occasionally spurting up like the bursting of -a boiler. In one place on the hillside the escaping steam from the -"Steamboat" keeps up a loud and steady roar; in another is the deeper -tone of the "Black Growler." As a general thing, the higher vents on -the hill give off steam only, while the lower ones are geysers. The -trees are coated with the deposits, the surface is hot, and all -underneath seems an immense mass of boiling water, impregnated with -sulphur, giving off powerful odors, while brimstone and lime-dust -encrust everything, and a large amount of valuable steam-power goes to -waste. - -This is the smallest of the basins, having few large geysers. Most of -them are little ones, spurting every few minutes, and with some view -to economy, whereby the water, after being blown out of the crater to -a brief height, runs back into the orifice again, ready to be ejected -by the next explosion. A mud geyser here throws up large quantities of -dirty white paint in several spouting jets, the eruption continuing -ten minutes, when nearly all the water runs back again, leaving the -crater entirely bare, and its rounded, water-worn rocks exposed. The -"Emerald Pool" is the wide crater of an old geyser, filled with hot -water of a beautiful green color, constantly boiling, but never -getting as far as an eruption. Probably the best geyser on exhibition -in this basin is the "Minute Man," which, at intervals of about one -minute, spouts for ten or twelve seconds, the column rising thirty -feet, and the rest of the time it blows off steam. The "Vixen" is a -coquette which is delightfully irregular, never going off when -watched, but when the back is turned suddenly sending out a column -sixty feet high. The great geyser here is the "Monarch," standing in a -hill from which it has blown out the entire side, and once a day -discharging an enormous amount of water over one hundred feet high, -and continuing nearly a half-hour. Its column comes from two huge -orifices, the surplus water running down quite a large brook. When -quiet, this geyser industriously boils like a big tea-kettle. There -are plenty of "paint pots" and sulphur springs, and the visitors coax -up lazy geysers by throwing stones into them,--a method usually making -the small ones go to work, as if angry at the treatment. - - -THE LOWER AND MIDDLE BASINS. - -Through the long deep canyon of the Gibbon River, and up over the -mountain top, giving a distant view of the Gibbon Falls, a cataract of -eighty feet far down in the valley, the road crosses another divide to -a stream in the worst portion of this Satanic domain, which has not -been inappropriately named the Firehole River. This unites with the -Gibbon to form the Madison River, one of the sources of the Missouri. -Miles ahead, the steam from the Firehole Geyser Basins can be seen -rising in clouds among the distant hills. Beyond, the view is closed -by the Teton Mountains, far to the southwest, rising fourteen thousand -feet, the Continental divide and backbone of North America, the -highest Rocky Mountain range, on the other side of which is the Snake -River, whose waters go off to the Pacific. The Firehole River is a -stream of ample current, with beautifully transparent blue water -bubbling over a bed of discolored stones and lava. Its waters are all -the outflow of geysers and hot springs, impregnated with everything -this forbidding region produces; pretty to look at, but bitter as the -waters of Marah. Along this river, geysers are liberally distributed -at intervals for ten miles, being, for convenience of description, -divided into the Lower, Middle and Upper Geyser Basins. The Lower -Basin, the first reached, has myriads of steam jets rising from a -surface of some three square miles of desolate geyserite deposits. -There are about seven hundred springs and geysers here, most of them -small. The Fountain Geyser throws a broad low stream of many -interlacing jets every two to three hours, lasting about fifteen -minutes. The "Thud" Geyser has a crater one hundred and fifty feet in -diameter, having a smaller rim inside, within which the geyser -operates, throwing a column of sixty feet with a heavy and regular -"thud" underground, though it has no fixed period, and is irregular in -action. This basin has a generous supply of mud geysers, known as the -"paint pots," which eject brilliantly colored muds with the -consistency and look of paint, the prevailing hues being red, white, -yellow and pink. - -About three miles to the southwest, farther up the Firehole River, is -the Middle Geyser Basin. It is a locality covering some fifty acres, -close to the river, and contains the greatest geyser in the world. The -name of Hell's Half Acre was given this place in the early -explorations, and still sticks. The surface is composed mainly of hot -ashes, with streams of boiling water running over it. The whole basin -is filled with hot springs, and surrounded by timbered hills, at the -foot of which is the Prismatic Lake, its beautiful green and blue -waters shading off into a deposit of bright red paint running down to -the river. The great Excelsior Geyser is a fountain of enormous power -but uncertain periods, which when at work throws out such immense -amounts of water as to double the flow of the river. Its crater is a -hundred yards wide, with water violently boiling in the centre all the -time and a steady outflow. The sides of the crater are beautifully -colored by the deposits, which are largely of sulphur. It is a geyser -of modern origin, having developed from a hot spring within the memory -of Park denizens. It throws a column over two hundred feet high, and -while quiet at times for years, occasionally bursts forth, though -having no fixed period. In close connection to the westward is the -seething cauldron which is the immediate Hell's Half Acre, that being -about its area--a beautiful but terrible lake, steam constantly rising -from the surface, which boils furiously and sends copious streams -over the edges. This is an uncanny spot, with treacherous footing -around, and about the hottest place in the Park. - - -THE UPPER FIREHOLE BASIN. - -For five miles along the desolate shores of Firehole River the course -is now taken in a region of mostly extinct geysers, yet with active -hot springs and steam jets, and having ashes and cinders covering wide -spaces. Ahead is the largest collection of geysers in the world, with -clouds of steam overhanging--the Upper Firehole Basin. Hot water runs -over the earth, and the "paint pots" color the surface in variegated -hues. Here are some forty of the greatest geysers in existence, in a -region covering two or three square miles, all of them located near -the river, and their outflow making its initial current. The basin is -at seventy-three hundred feet elevation above the sea. When the author -visited this extraordinary place the guide, halting at the verge, -said: "Now I have brought you to the front door of hell." He was asked -if there were any Indians about there, and solemnly replied: "No -Indian ever comes into this country unless he is blind; only the white -man is fool enough to come;" then after a moment's pause he continued, -"And I get paid for it, I do." The great stand-by of this Upper Basin, -and the geyser that is first visited, is "Old Faithful," near its -southern or upper end. This most reliable geyser, which always goes -off at the time appointed, is a flat-topped and gently rising cone -about two hundred feet in diameter, and elevated towards the centre -about twenty feet. The tube is an orifice of eight feet by two feet -wide in the centre of this cone, with water-worn and rounded rocks -enclosing it. Steam escapes all the time, and the hard, scaly and -laminated surface around it seems hollow as you walk across, while -beneath there are grumblings and dull explosions, giving warning of -the approaching outburst. Several mounds of extinct geysers are near, -with steam issuing from one of them, but all have long since gone out -of active business. Soon "Old Faithful" gives the premonitory symptoms -of an eruption. The steam jet increases, and also the internal -rumblings. Then a little spurt of hot water comes, hastily receding -with a growl, followed by more steam, and after an interval more -growling, finally developing into repeated little spurts of hot water, -occupying several minutes. Then the geyser suddenly explodes, throwing -quick jets higher and higher into the air, until the column rises in a -grand fountain to the height of about one hundred and fifty feet, the -stream inclined to the northward, and falling over in great splashes -upon that side of the cone, dense clouds of steam and spray being -carried by the wind, upon which the sun paints a rainbow. After some -four minutes the grand jet dies gradually down to a height of about -thirty feet, continuing at that elevation for a brief time, with -quickly repeated impulses. When six minutes have elapsed, with an -expiring leap the water mounts to a height of fifty feet, there is a -final outburst of steam, and all is over. A deluge of hot water rushes -down to the Firehole River; and thus "Old Faithful" keeps it up -regularly every hour. The eruption being ended, you can look down into -the abyss whence it came. Through the hot steam, rushing out with a -strong draught, there is a view far down into the rocky recesses of -the geyser. The water left by the eruption stands about in transparent -shallow pools, and is tinted a pale blue. "Old Faithful's" mound is -built up of layers of geyserite--hard, brittle, porous, full of -crevices, and having all about little basins with turned-up rims that -retain the water. This geyser is the favorite in the region, not only -because of its regular performance, but possibly because its odors are -somewhat less sulphurous than those emanating elsewhere. - -The geysers of the Upper Basin contribute practically the whole -current of the Firehole River, their outflow sending into the stream -ten million gallons daily. Across the river to the northward, close to -the bank, is the Beehive, its tube looking like a huge bird's nest, -enclosed by a pile of geyserite resembling a beehive, three feet high -and about four feet in diameter. Nearby is a vent from which steam, -escaping a few minutes before the eruption, gives notice of its -coming. The water column shoots up two hundred feet, with clouds of -steam, but it is quite uncertain, spouting once or twice in -twenty-four hours, and usually at night. Behind the Beehive are the -Lion, the Lioness, and their two Cubs, and to the eastward of the -latter the Giantess. The Lion group has only uncertain and small -action, while the Giantess is on the summit of a mound fifty feet -high, with a depressed crater, measuring eighteen by twenty-four feet, -and usually filled with dark-blue water. This is the slowest of all -the geysers in getting to work, acting only at fortnightly intervals, -but each eruption continues the greater part of the day, with usually -long-previous notice by violent boiling and internal rumblings. When -it comes, the explosion is terrific, the column mounting two hundred -and fifty feet, a perfect water-spout the full size of the crater, -with a half-dozen distinct jets forced through it. To the northwest of -the Lion and across the river is the Castle, so named from the -castellated construction of its crater. It stands upon an elevation, -the side towards the Firehole falling off in a series of rude steps. -The tube is elevated about ten feet within the castle and is four feet -in diameter. It is of uncertain eruption, sometimes playing daily and -sometimes every other day, throwing a column of one hundred and fifty -feet, falling in a sparkling shower, continuing about forty minutes, -and then tapering off in a series of insignificant spurts. The -Saw-Mill is not far away, rather insignificant, its tube being only -six inches in diameter, set in a saucer-like crater about twenty feet -across; but its water column, thrown forty feet high, gives the -peculiar sounds of a saw, caused by the action of puffs of steam -coming out alternately with the water jets. It generally acts in -unison with the Grand Geyser, a quarter of a mile northward, which -goes off about once a day. The Grand Geyser in action is most -powerful, causing the earth to tremble, while there are fearful -thumping noises beneath. The water in the crater suddenly recedes, and -then quickly spurts upward in a solid column for two hundred feet, -with steam rising in puffs above. The column seems to be composed of -numerous separate jets, falling back with a thundering sound into the -funnel. The outburst continues a few minutes, stops as suddenly as it -starts, and is repeated six or eight times, each growing less -powerful. Along the river bank nearby are the Wash Tubs, small basins -ten feet in diameter, each with an orifice in the bottom. If the -clothes are put in, the washing progresses finely until suddenly out -goes the water, and with it all the garments, sucked down the hole. -After awhile the basin fills again, and back come the clothes, though -sometimes they are very dilatory in returning. The Devil's Well, about -fifty feet away, is usually accused of complicity in this movement. It -is a broad and placid basin of hot water, with a beautiful blue -tinge, in which tourists sometimes boil their eggs and potatoes. It is -sentinelled by the Comet Geyser, exploding several times daily, but -through an orifice so large that it does not throw a very high column. - -The great geyser of this Upper Basin is the Giant. It has a broken -cone set upon an almost level surface, with the enclosing formation -fallen away on one side, the interior being lined with brilliant -colors like a tessellated pavement. It is somewhat uncertain in -movement, but usually goes off every fourth day. It gives ample -notice, certain "Little Devils" adjoining, and a vent in the side of -the crater, boiling some time before it sends up the enormous column -which plays ninety minutes. The outburst, when it starts, comes like a -tornado, and the stream from it runs into and more than doubles the -current of the river. The column is eight feet in diameter, rises two -hundred and fifty feet at first, and is afterwards maintained at two -hundred feet. There is a deafening noise, and the steam clouds seem to -cover half the valley. The column goes up perfectly straight, and -falls back around the cone with a deluge of hot water. The Catfish, a -small geyser, is nearby, and to the northward a short distance is the -Grotto. This is an odd formation, its crater perforated with orifices -around a low, elongated mound, which point in different directions; -and when it goes off at six-hour intervals, the eruption is by streams -at an angle, giving a curious sort of churning motion to the water -column, which rises forty feet, continuing twenty minutes. The -Riverside has a little crater on a terraced mound just at the river's -edge, and is a small, irregular but vigorous spouter, throwing a -stream sixty feet. The Fan has five spreading tubes, arranged so that -they make a huge fan-like eruption, one hundred feet high in the -centre, this display, given three or four times a day, continuing -about fifteen minutes. The Splendid plays a jet two hundred feet high -every three hours, continuing ten minutes, and may be spurred to -quicker action. The Pyramid and the Punch Bowl are geysers that have -ceased operations. The former is now only a steam-jet, and the latter, -on a flat mound, is an elegant blue pool, elevated several feet, and -having a serrated edge. The Morning Glory Spring, named from its -resemblance to the convolvulus, is a beautiful and most delicately -tinted pool. The investigators of these geysers have been able to get -the temperature at a depth of seventy feet within the tubes, and find -that under the pressure there exerted the boiling-point is 250 deg. Upon -this fact is based the theory of the operation of the geyser. The -boiling-point under pressure at the bottom of a long tube being much -higher than at the top, the expansive force of the steam there -suddenly generated drives out violently the water above it in the -tube, and hence the explosive spouting. - - -YELLOWSTONE FALLS AND CANYON. - -The National Park, besides the extraordinary geyser and hot-spring -formations exhibits the grand scenery of the Yellowstone Falls and -Canyon. The Yellowstone River has its source in Bridger Lake, to the -southeast of the Park, and flows northward in a broad valley between -generally snow-capped mountain ridges of volcanic origin, with some of -the peaks rising over eleven thousand feet. It is a sluggish stream, -with heavily timbered banks, much of the initial valley being marshy, -and it flows into the Yellowstone Lake, the largest sheet of water at -a high elevation in North America. This lake has bays indented in its -western and southern shores, giving the irregular outline somewhat the -appearance of a human hand, and there are five of them, called the -"Thumb" and the "Fingers." The thumb of this distorted hand is thicker -than its length, the forefinger is detached and shrivelled, the middle -finger has also been badly treated, and the much swollen little finger -is the biggest of all, thus making a very demoralized hand. The trail -eastward over from the Upper Firehole Geyser Basin comes out on the -West Thumb of the lake, mounting the Continental Divide on the way, -and crossing it twice as it makes a curious loop to the northward, the -second crossing being at eighty-five hundred feet elevation, whence -the trail descends to the West Thumb. Yellowstone Lake is at -seventy-seven hundred and forty feet elevation, and covers about one -hundred and fifty square miles, having a hundred miles of coast-line. -The scenery is tame, the shores being usually gentle slopes, with much -marsh and pine woods. Islands dot the blue waters, and waterfowl -frequent the marshes. The most elevated portion of the immediate -environment is Flat Mountain, on the southwestern side, rising five -hundred feet, but beyond the eastern shore are some of the highest -peaks of the Park, exceeding eleven thousand feet. Hot springs adjoin -the West Thumb, and there is an actual geyser crater in the lake -itself. Towards the northern end the shores gradually contract into -the narrow and shallow Yellowstone River, which flows towards the -northwest after first leaving the lake, having occasional hot springs, -geysers, paint pots and steam jets at work, with large adjacent -surfaces of geyserite and sulphur. The chief curiosity in operation is -the Giant's Cauldron, boiling furiously, and with a roar that can be -heard far away. The pretty Alum Creek is crossed, its waters, thus -tainted, giving the name. South of this the Yellowstone is generally -placid, winding for a dozen miles sluggishly through prairie and -timbered hills, but now it contracts and rushes for a mile down rapids -and over pretty cascades to the Upper Fall. - -Restricted to a width of but eighty feet, the river shoots far over -this fall, the current being thrown outward, indicating there must be -room to pass behind it. The fall is one hundred and twenty feet, and -suddenly turning a right angle at its foot, the stream of beautiful -green passes through a not very deep canyon. The appearance of the -surrounding cliffs is quite Alpine, though the rocks forming the -cascade constantly suffer from erosion. About a half-mile below is the -great Lower Falls of the Yellowstone. Before reaching it, a little -stream comes into the river over the Crystal Fall, about eighty feet -high, rushing down a gorge forming a perfect grotto in the side of the -canyon, extending some distance under the overhanging rocks. The -surface of the plateau gradually ascends as the Lower Falls are -approached, while the river bed descends, and this makes a deep -canyon, brilliantly colored, generally a light yellow (thus naming the -river), but in many portions white, like marble, with patches of -orange, the whole being streaked and spotted with the dark-gray rocks, -whose sombre color in this region is produced by atmospheric action. -The river rushes to the brink of the Lower Fall, and where it goes -over, the current is not over a hundred feet wide, the descent of the -cataract being about three hundred feet, and the column of falling -waters dividing into separate white streaks, which are lost in clouds -of spray before reaching the bottom. Only a small amount of water -usually goes over, about twelve hundred cubic feet in a second. Before -the plunge the water forms a basin of dark-green color, and both blue -and green tints mingle with the prevailing white of the cascade. -Towards sunset, when viewed from below, there are admirable rainbow -effects. The river is quite narrow as it flows away along the bottom -of the canyon, which now becomes deep and large. The grand view of -this beautiful picture is from Point Lookout, a half-mile below the -falls. Unlike any other of the world's great waterfalls, this cascade, -while a part, ceases to be the chief feature of the scene. It is the -vivid coloring and remarkable formation of the sides of the canyon -that make the chief impression. These change as the sun gives light -and shadow, the morning differing from noon and noon from night. It is -impossible to reproduce or properly describe the beautiful hues in -this wonderful picture. The prevailing tint is a light yellow, almost -sulphur color, with veins of white marble and bright red streaked -through it. The colors blend admirably, while the cascade in the -background seems enclosed in a setting of chocolate-brown rocks, -contrasting picturesquely with the brighter foreground. Throughout the -grand scene, great rocky columns and pinnacles arise, their brilliant -hues maintained to the tops, and the scattered pines clinging to these -huge columnar formations give a green tinge to parts of the picture. -The _debris_, forming an inclined base about half-way down, is colored -as brilliantly as the rocks above, from which it has fallen. In the -view over the canyon from Point Lookout, the contracted white streak -of the cascade above the spray cloud is but a small part of the -background, while the river below is only a narrow green ribbon, edged -by these brilliant hues. Some distance farther down the canyon, -another outlook at Inspiration Point gives a striking view from an -elevation fifteen hundred feet above the river of the gorgeous -coloring of the upper canyon. - -This grand Canyon of the Yellowstone extends, as the river flows, a -distance of about twenty-four miles. It is a depression in a volcanic -plateau elevated about eight thousand feet above the sea, and -gradually declining towards the northern end of the canyon. Above the -Upper Fall the river level is almost at the top of the plateau, and -the falls and rapids depress the stream bed about thirteen hundred -feet. About midway along the canyon, on the western side, is Washburne -Mountain, the surface from it declining in both directions, so that -there the canyon is deepest, measuring twelve hundred feet. Across the -top, the width varies from four hundred to sixteen hundred yards, the -angle of slope down to the bottom being fully 45 deg., and often much -steeper, in some cases almost perpendicular where the top width is -narrowest. This Grand Canyon is the beautiful beginning, as it were, -of the largest river in the world,--the Missouri and the Mississippi. -Upon the trail in the southern part of the National Park which goes -over from the Firehole River to the West Thumb, and at quite an -elevation upon the Continental Divide, there is a quiet little sheet -of water, having two small streams flowing from its opposite sides. To -the eastward a babbling brook goes down into the West Thumb of the -Yellowstone Lake, while to the southwest another small creek flows -over the boulders towards Shoshone Lake. This scanty sheet of water, -properly named the Two-Ocean Pond, actually feeds both the Atlantic -and Pacific Oceans. The one stream gets its outlet through the -Mississippi and the other through the Columbia River of Oregon. - - -WESTWARD THE COURSE OF EMPIRE. - -Here, in the Yellowstone National Park, with the waters flowing -towards both the rising and the setting sun, is the backbone of the -American Continent. Beyond it the country stretches through the -spacious Rocky Mountain ranges to the Pacific. What is herein -described gives an idea of the vast empire ceded to the United States -by France in the early nineteenth century, and this Great Northwest is -gradually becoming the masterful ruling section of the country. When -Bishop Berkeley, in the early eighteenth century, sitting by the -Atlantic Ocean waves at Newport, composed his famous lyric on the -"course of empire," he little thought how typical it was to become -more than a century after his death. He was musing then "On the -Prospect of Planting Arts and Learning in America." The Arts and the -Learning have had vigorous American growth, but his Muse predicted a -greater empire than any one could have then imagined. - - "The Muse, disgusted at an age and clime - Barren of every glorious theme, - In distant lands now waits a better time, - Producing subjects worthy fame. - - "In happy climes, where from the genial sun - And virgin earth such scenes ensue, - The force of Art by Nature seems outdone, - And fancied beauties by the true; - - "In happy climes, the seat of innocence, - Where Nature guides and Virtue rules, - Where men shall not impose for truth and sense - The pedantry of courts and schools; - - "There shall be sung another golden age, - The rise of empire and of arts, - The good and great inspiring epic rage, - The wisest heads and noblest hearts. - - "Not such as Europe breeds in her decay; - Such as she bred when fresh and young, - When heavenly flame did animate her clay, - By future poets shall be sung. - - "Westward the course of empire takes its way; - The four first acts already past, - A fifth shall close the drama with the day; - Time's noblest offspring is the last." - -END OF VOLUME I. - - - - - -End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of America, Volume II (of 6), by Joel Cook - -*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK AMERICA, VOLUME II (OF 6) *** - -***** This file should be named 41742.txt or 41742.zip ***** -This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: - http://www.gutenberg.org/4/1/7/4/41742/ - -Produced by Melissa McDaniel and the Online Distributed -Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This file was -produced from images generously made available by The -Internet Archive) - - -Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions -will be renamed. - -Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no -one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation -(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without -permission and without paying copyright royalties. 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