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diff --git a/41696-h/41696-h.htm b/41696-h/41696-h.htm index 359d11f..69b3683 100644 --- a/41696-h/41696-h.htm +++ b/41696-h/41696-h.htm @@ -2,7 +2,7 @@ "http://www.w3.org/TR/xhtml1/DTD/xhtml1-strict.dtd"> <html xmlns="http://www.w3.org/1999/xhtml"> <head> -<meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html; charset=ISO-8859-1" /> +<meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html; charset=UTF-8" /> <title>The Project Gutenberg eBook of The Feasts of Autolycus, by Elizabeth Robins Pennell</title> <link rel="coverpage" href="images/cover.jpg" /> <style type="text/css"> @@ -142,27 +142,10 @@ hr.c35 </style> </head> <body> +<div>*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 41696 ***</div> <h1>The Project Gutenberg eBook, The Feasts of Autolycus, by Elizabeth Robins Pennell</h1> -<p>This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with -almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or -re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included -with this eBook or online at <a -href="http://www.gutenberg.org">www.gutenberg.org</a></p> -<p>Title: The Feasts of Autolycus</p> -<p> The Diary of a Greedy Woman</p> -<p>Author: Elizabeth Robins Pennell</p> -<p>Release Date: December 24, 2012 [eBook #41696]</p> -<p>Language: English</p> -<p>Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1</p> -<p>***START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE FEASTS OF AUTOLYCUS***</p> <p> </p> -<h4>E-text prepared by Mary Akers, Suzanne Shell,<br /> - and the Online Distributed Proofreading Team<br /> - (<a href="http://www.pgdp.net">http://www.pgdp.net</a>)<br /> - from page images generously made available by<br /> - Internet Archive/American Libraries<br /> - (<a href="http://archive.org/details/americana">http://archive.org/details/americana</a>)</h4> <p> </p> <table border="0" style="background-color: #ccccff;margin: 0 auto;" cellpadding="10"> <tr> @@ -242,8 +225,8 @@ creature.</p> <p>For centuries the kitchen has been her appointed sphere of action. And yet, here, as in the studio and the study, she has allowed man -to carry off the laurels. Vatel, Carême, Ude, -Dumas, Gouffé, Etienne, these are some of the +to carry off the laurels. Vatel, Carême, Ude, +Dumas, Gouffé, Etienne, these are some of the immortal cooks of history: the kitchen still waits its Sappho. Mrs Glasse, at first, might be thought a notable exception; but it is not so @@ -476,7 +459,7 @@ lightly the treasures that should prove invaluable. They refuse to recognise that there is no less art in eating well than in painting well or writing well, and if their choice lay between -swallowing a bun with a cup of tea in an aërated +swallowing a bun with a cup of tea in an aërated bread shop, and missing the latest picture show or doing without a new book, they would not hesitate; to the stodgy bun they would @@ -666,14 +649,14 @@ for light and inspiration.</p> <p>Upon rising—and why not let the hour vary according to mood and inclination?—forswear -all but the <i>petit déjeuner</i>: the little breakfast of +all but the <i>petit déjeuner</i>: the little breakfast of coffee and rolls and butter. But the coffee must be of the best, no chicory as you hope for salvation; the rolls must be crisp and light and fresh, as they always are in Paris and Vienna; the butter must be pure and sweet. And if you possess a fragment of self-respect, enjoy -this <i>petit déjeuner</i> alone, in the solitude of your +this <i>petit déjeuner</i> alone, in the solitude of your chamber. Upon the early family breakfast many and many a happy marriage has been wrecked; and so be warned in time.</p> @@ -732,7 +715,7 @@ will have conquered. "A woman who has mastered sauces sits on the apex of civilisation."</p> <p>Without fear of anti-climax, pass suavely on -from <i>œufs aux saucissons</i> to <i>rognons sautés</i>. In +from <i>œufs aux saucissons</i> to <i>rognons sautés</i>. In thin elegant slices your kidneys should be cut, before trusting them to the melted butter in the frying pan; for seasoning, add salt, pepper, @@ -745,7 +728,7 @@ will never repent.</p> Dainty steps these to prepare the way for the breakfast's most substantial course, which, to be in loving sympathy with all that has gone -before, may consist of <i>côtelettes de mouton au naturel</i>. +before, may consist of <i>côtelettes de mouton au naturel</i>. See that the cutlets be small and plump, well trimmed, and beaten gently, once on each side, with a chopper cooled in water. Dip @@ -753,7 +736,7 @@ them into melted butter, grill them, turning them but once that the juice may not be lost, and thank kind fate that has let you live to enjoy so delicious a morsel. <i>Pommes de terre -sautées</i> may be deemed chaste enough to appear—and +sautées</i> may be deemed chaste enough to appear—and disappear—at the same happy moment.</p> <p>With welcome promise of spring the feast @@ -793,7 +776,7 @@ though good Graves, alas! is not to be had for the asking. Much too heavy is Burgundy for breakfast. If your soul yearns for red wine, be aristocratic in your preferences, and, like -the Stuarts, drink Claret—a good St. Estèphe +the Stuarts, drink Claret—a good St. Estèphe or St. Julien.</p> <p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_23" id="Page_23">23</a></span> @@ -803,7 +786,7 @@ breakfast. Have it of the best, or else not at all. For liqueur, one of the less fervent, more maidenly varieties, Maraschino, perhaps, or Prunelle, but make sure it is the Prunelle, in -stone jugs, that comes from Chalon-sur-Saône. +stone jugs, that comes from Chalon-sur-Saône. Bring out the cigarettes—not the Egyptian or Turkish, with suspicion of opium lurking in their fragrant recesses—but the cleaner, purer @@ -889,7 +872,7 @@ on the early, dull, morning hours; too immaterial for the evening's demands.</p> <p>Its memory will linger pleasantly, even when -<i>pilaff de volaille à l'Indienne</i> succeeds, offering a +<i>pilaff de volaille à l'Indienne</i> succeeds, offering a new and more stirring symphony in the same radiant gold. For golden is the rice, stained with curry, as it encircles the pretty, soft @@ -960,7 +943,7 @@ in thin slices, all but transparent. It kindles desire and lends new zest to appetite.</p> <p>After so ardent a preparation, what better -suited for ensuing course than <i>œufs brouillés aux +suited for ensuing course than <i>œufs brouillés aux pointes d'asperges</i>? the eggs golden and fleecy as the clouds in the sunset's glow; the asparagus points imparting that exquisite flavour which is @@ -972,10 +955,10 @@ power to enchant.</p> <p>Who, with a soul, could pass on to a roast or a big heating joint? More to the purpose is <i>ris -de veau à la Toulouse</i>, the sweetbreads broiled +de veau à la Toulouse</i>, the sweetbreads broiled with distinction, and then, in pretty fluted <i>caissons</i>, -surrounded with <i>Béchamel</i> sauce and ravishing -<i>ragoût</i> of mushrooms and cock's combs. +surrounded with <i>Béchamel</i> sauce and ravishing +<i>ragoût</i> of mushrooms and cock's combs. They are light as a feather, but still a trifle flamboyant in honour of the tulips, while the name carries with it gaiety from the gay southern @@ -998,7 +981,7 @@ enjoyed the greater the desire to enjoy it again.</p> it leaves with the cloying insipidity of some ill-timed sweet? It is almost too early for strawberries worth the eating, save in a -<i>macédoine</i>, and they alone would come next in +<i>macédoine</i>, and they alone would come next in order, without introducing an element of confusion in the well-proportioned breakfast of spring. A savoury, too, would, at this special @@ -1015,7 +998,7 @@ its dryness is nothing short of iniquitous.</p> <p>Tulips and tomatoes point to Claret as the wine to be drunk. Burgundy is for the evening, when candles are lighted, and the hours of -dreaming have begun. St. Estèphe, at noon, +dreaming have begun. St. Estèphe, at noon, has infinite merit, and responds to the tulip's call with greater warmth than any white wine, whether from the vineyards of France or Germany, @@ -1097,8 +1080,8 @@ lazily you listen to the distant plashing of oars and lowing of kine, and all life drifts into an idle dream.</p> -<p>Or, the ham of Bayonne, the <i>pâté de foie gras</i> -of Périgueux, you bury in the deep recesses of +<p>Or, the ham of Bayonne, the <i>pâté de foie gras</i> +of Périgueux, you bury in the deep recesses of a long, narrow, crisp <i>petit pain</i>, and then, quick in a French railway carriage will you find yourself: a bottle of wine is at your side; the <i>Echo @@ -1128,13 +1111,13 @@ dissipation the sandwich is an ally of infallible trustworthiness and infinite resources. In the hour of need it is never found wanting. To dine well, authorities have proclaimed in -<i>ex cathedrâ</i> utterance, you must lunch lightly; +<i>ex cathedrâ</i> utterance, you must lunch lightly; but not, therefore, does it follow that the light luncheon should be repellently prosaic. Let it be dainty—a graceful lyric—that it may fill you with hope of the coming dinner. And lyrical indeed is the savoury sandwich, well cut and -garnished, served on rare faïence or old silver; +garnished, served on rare faïence or old silver; a glass, or perhaps two, of Bordeaux of some famous vintage, to strengthen its subtle flavour.</p> @@ -1159,15 +1142,15 @@ tea. Reserve this well-meaning, but unpoetic, viand for the journey and the day of open-air sport, to which so admirably it is fitted. Nor so reserving it, will you be hampered -in making what Dumas calls <i>tartines à +in making what Dumas calls <i>tartines à l'Anglaise</i>. Infinity is at your disposal, if you be large and liberal enough to grasp the fact. One hundred numbered the varieties known to that genius of Glasgow, who, for his researches, has been honoured by a place in dictionary and -Encyclopædia. To these you may add, if time +Encyclopædia. To these you may add, if time and leisure you find for a trip to Budapest and -the famous Kügler's, where, with your tea, will +the famous Kügler's, where, with your tea, will <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_38" id="Page_38">38</a></span> be served such exquisite sandwiches, so original and many in their devices that you can but @@ -1202,7 +1185,7 @@ sandwich.</p> <p>Upon the egg, likewise, you may rely for inspiration—the humble hen's egg, or the lordly plover's. Hard-boiled, in thin slices (oh! the -memories of Kügler's, and the Russian railway +memories of Kügler's, and the Russian railway station, and the <i>hor d'œuvres</i>, Tartar-guarded sideboard, now awakened!) or well grated; by itself, or in endless combinations, the egg will @@ -1378,7 +1361,7 @@ A crisp Vienna roll, with sweet fresh butter, makes an excellent accompaniment, but one to be enjoyed in moderation.</p> -<p><i>Crème Soubise</i> is the soup to follow. Thick, +<p><i>Crème Soubise</i> is the soup to follow. Thick, creamy, onion-scented, the first spoonful enchants, and a glamour is at once cast over dinner and diners. Sufficing in itself, it needs @@ -1395,7 +1378,7 @@ you will make as many shells as there are guests serve the purpose of a single dish.</p> <p>Without loitering or dallying with useless -<i>entrées</i>, come at once to the one substantial +<i>entrées</i>, come at once to the one substantial course of the pleasant feast—and see that it be not too substantial. Avoid the heavy, clumsy, unimaginative joint. Decide rather for idyllic, @@ -1406,7 +1389,7 @@ of the little button variety, suggesting tins or bottles, but large and black and fresh from the market. Rapture is their inevitable sauce: rapture too deep for words. To share the same -plate <i>pommes soufflées</i> may be found worthy.</p> +plate <i>pommes soufflées</i> may be found worthy.</p> <p>None but the irreverent would seek to blur their impressions by eating other meats after @@ -1585,7 +1568,7 @@ in a cup." Their true affinity is less the vegetable, however artistically prepared, than the salad, serenely simple, that discord may not be risked. Not this the time for the bewildering -<i>macédoine</i>, or the brilliant tomato. Choose, instead, +<i>macédoine</i>, or the brilliant tomato. Choose, instead, lettuce; crisp cool <i>Romaine</i> by choice. Sober restraint should dignify the dressing; a suspicion of chives may be allowed; a sprinkling @@ -1597,7 +1580,7 @@ reaching its climax.</p> <p>It is autumn, the mood is fantastic: a sweet, if it tend not to the vulgarity of heavy puddings and stodgy pies, will introduce an amusing, a -sprightly element. <i>Omelette soufflée</i> claims the +sprightly element. <i>Omelette soufflée</i> claims the privilege. But it must be light as air, all but ethereal in substance, a mere nothing to melt in the mouth like a beautiful dream. And yet @@ -1614,7 +1597,7 @@ may be secured.</p> <p>By the law of contrasts the vague must give way to the decided. The stirring, glorious climax after the brief, gentle interlude, will be -had in <i>canapé des olives farcies</i>, the olives stuffed +had in <i>canapé des olives farcies</i>, the olives stuffed with anchovies and capers, deluged with cayenne, prone on their beds of toast and girded about with astonished watercress.</p> @@ -1686,7 +1669,7 @@ to the immortal, infallible "Almanack," and confirmation of this sad truth will stare you in the face plainly, relentlessly. Sucking-pig is sole consolation offered by benevolent De la -Reynière to well-nigh inconsolable man. But +Reynière to well-nigh inconsolable man. But what a poem in the sucking-pig that gambols gaily over his pages: a delicious roasted creature, its little belly stuffed full of liver and @@ -1697,7 +1680,7 @@ indispensable acolyte, an orange sauce waits to complete the masterpiece! <i>En daube</i>, this amiable <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_60" id="Page_60">60</a></span> little beast is not to be despised, nor <i>en -ragoût</i> need it be dismissed with disdain, though, +ragoût</i> need it be dismissed with disdain, though, let man of letters beware! The Society of Authors, with his welfare at heart, should warn him while still there is time. What zest might @@ -1718,7 +1701,7 @@ without elaborate <i>menu</i>. But London must fast while New York feasts. At Delmonico's, happy diners may smile gracious welcome to Lima beans and sweet corn, to succotash and egg-plant, -to chicken <i>à l'okra</i> and clam chowder, +to chicken <i>à l'okra</i> and clam chowder, but what hope for the patrons of Verrey's and Nichol's? What hope, unless, forthwith, they emigrate to that promised land beyond the @@ -1748,7 +1731,7 @@ hues bear loud and triumphant witness.</p> <p>Let the soup be at once tribute and farewell to spring that has gone. Regret will be luxuriously -expressed in <i>purée de petits pois</i>; spinach +expressed in <i>purée de petits pois</i>; spinach added to the fresh peas to lend flavour and colour, <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_62" id="Page_62">62</a></span> a dash of sugar for sweetness' sake, a pinch @@ -1763,8 +1746,8 @@ possession but for the ever-present fear of loss?</p> <p>With the second course, banish regret. Forget yesterday; be indifferent to to-morrow; -revel riotously in to-day. <i>Hure de saumon à la -Cambacérès</i> will point out the way to supreme +revel riotously in to-day. <i>Hure de saumon à la +Cambacérès</i> will point out the way to supreme surrender. Close to the head, the delicate silver-rose of the fish must be cut in lavish proportions; braised gently, its removal to the @@ -1779,17 +1762,17 @@ now the present truly has conquered!</p> promise. Gay and fantastic, it must be well able to stand the dread test of comparison. <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_63" id="Page_63">63</a></span> -<i>Rognons d'agneau à l'éþicurienne</i> enters nobly into +<i>Rognons d'agneau à l'éþicurienne</i> enters nobly into the breach; the lamb's dainty kidneys are split and grilled with decorum, their fragrant centres are adorned with sympathetic <i>sauce Tartare</i>, -golden potatoes <i>à la Parisienne</i> insist upon serving +golden potatoes <i>à la Parisienne</i> insist upon serving as garniture, and Mr Senn demands, as finishing touch, the stimulating seduction of <i>sauce Poivrade</i>. Who now will say that August is barren of delicious devices?</p> -<p>To follow: <i>poulet sauté à l'Hongroise</i>, the clash +<p>To follow: <i>poulet sauté à l'Hongroise</i>, the clash of the Czardas captured and imprisoned in a stew-pan. With the Racoczy's wild drumming stirring memory into frenzy, stew the fowl, @@ -1797,10 +1780,10 @@ already cut into six willing pieces, with butter, a well-minced onion, pepper—<i>paprika</i> by choice—and salt; ten minutes will suffice—how, indeed, endure the strain a second longer? Then -to the notes of the cymbal, moisten with <i>Béchamel</i> +to the notes of the cymbal, moisten with <i>Béchamel</i> sauce and fair quantity of cream, and rejoice in the fine Romany rapture for just twenty -minutes more. Decorate with <i>croûtons</i>, and send +minutes more. Decorate with <i>croûtons</i>, and send fancy, without fetters, wandering across the plains and over the mountains of song-bound Magyarland. To play the gypsy, free as the @@ -1827,7 +1810,7 @@ will be the results.</p> in conception. Picture to yourself the absurd figure cut by tapioca pudding or apple dumpling on conscientiously voluptuous <i>menu</i>? -A <i>macédoine méringuée</i> would have more legitimate +A <i>macédoine méringuée</i> would have more legitimate claim to close the banquet with distinction. August supplies fruit without stint: plums and greengages and apricots and nectarines @@ -1836,14 +1819,14 @@ and peaches and pears and grapes and bananas; all join together to sweet purpose, with ecstatic intent; a large wineglass of Claret, a generous sprinkling of Cognac will -guard against puerility. The protecting <i>méringue</i> +guard against puerility. The protecting <i>méringue</i> should be crisp and pale golden brown; and later it will need the reinforcement of thick luscious cream.</p> <p>A sweet fails to delight, unless a savoury -comes speedily after. <i>Caviar de Russie en crêpes</i> -is worthy successor of <i>macédoine méringue</i>. +comes speedily after. <i>Caviar de Russie en crêpes</i> +is worthy successor of <i>macédoine méringue</i>. Mingle cream with the <i>caviar</i>, and none who eats will have cause to complain. It reconciles to the barbarous, even where Tolstoi and Marie @@ -2065,7 +2048,7 @@ travelled leagues upon leagues into the playtime of the past.</p> <p>Cheese now is as essential as it would have -been intrusive in the other <i>menu</i>. Gruyère +been intrusive in the other <i>menu</i>. Gruyère should be your choice, and if you would have it of fine flavour, seek it not at the English cheesemonger's, but at the little German <i>delicatessen</i> @@ -2079,11 +2062,11 @@ eaten with such sweet persistency as the strawberry. But, on your German evening, fatigue it with Kirsch, leave it on its icy couch until the very last minute, and memories of the -Lapérouse will mingle with those of the smoky +Lapérouse will mingle with those of the smoky inn of the Fatherland.</p> <p>Is there any question that Hock is the wine, -when sausage and red herring and Gruyère +when sausage and red herring and Gruyère cheese figure so prominently in the <i>menu's</i> composition? Drink it from tall slender glass, that it may take you fully into its confidence. @@ -2140,7 +2123,7 @@ served.</p> <p>Magical, indeed, is the spell good soup can cast. Of its services as medicine or tonic, why speak? Beef tea gives courage to battle with -pain and suffering; <i>consommé</i> cheers the hours +pain and suffering; <i>consommé</i> cheers the hours of convalescence. Let all honour be done to it for its virtues in the sick-room; but with so cheerful a subject, it is pleasanter to dwell on @@ -2218,8 +2201,8 @@ and honest, is to be had for a paltry sum whenever the train may stop. Crisp rolls, light <i>brioches</i> tempt you to unwise excesses. Not a province, scarce a town, but has its own special -dainty; nougat at Montélimart, sausages at -Arles, <i>pâté de foie gras</i> at Pèrigueux; and so you +dainty; nougat at Montélimart, sausages at +Arles, <i>pâté de foie gras</i> at Pèrigueux; and so you might go on mapping out the country according to, not its departments, but its dishes. These, however, the experienced traveller would gladly @@ -2233,7 +2216,7 @@ night and the longer miles. With it the day's journey is well begun and well ended. It sustains <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_80" id="Page_80">80</a></span> and nourishes; and, better still, it has its -own æsthetic value; perfect in itself, it is the +own æsthetic value; perfect in itself, it is the one perfect dish for the place and purpose. No wonder, then, that it has kindled even Mr Henry James into at least a show of enthusiasm; @@ -2266,8 +2249,8 @@ soupmaking; face to face with first principles it brings you. But whether you elect for the one or the other, this great fundamental truth there is, ever to be borne in mind: let fresh -meat be the basis of your <i>consommé</i> as of your -<i>bisque</i>, of your <i>gumbo</i> as of your <i>pâtes d'Italie</i>. +meat be the basis of your <i>consommé</i> as of your +<i>bisque</i>, of your <i>gumbo</i> as of your <i>pâtes d'Italie</i>. True, in an emergency, Liebig, and all its many offshoots, may serve you—and serve you well. But if you be a woman of feeling, of @@ -2349,7 +2332,7 @@ sweets to lighter, more frivolous moments, when, hunger appeased, man may unbend to trifles.</p> -<p>What the great Alexandre calls the <i>grand consommé</i> +<p>What the great Alexandre calls the <i>grand consommé</i> is the basis of all soup—and sauce making. Study his very word with reverence; carry out his every suggestion with devotion. @@ -2412,7 +2395,7 @@ spring and blossoms in every mouthful. This last, surely, is the lyric among soups. Decide upon cheese instead, and you will set a Daudet singing you a poem in prose: "<i>Oh! la bonne -odeur de soupe au fromage!</i>" <i>Pâtes d'Italie</i>, <i>vermicelli</i>, +odeur de soupe au fromage!</i>" <i>Pâtes d'Italie</i>, <i>vermicelli</i>, <i>macaroni</i>, each will prove a separate ecstasy, if you but remember the grated Parmesan that must be sprinkled over it without stint—as in @@ -2430,7 +2413,7 @@ month.</p> <p>If of these lighter soups you tire, then turn with new hope and longing to the stimulating -list of <i>purées</i> and <i>crèmes</i>. Let tomatoes, or peas, +list of <i>purées</i> and <i>crèmes</i>. Let tomatoes, or peas, or beans, or lentils, as you will, be the keynote, always you may count upon a harmony inspiriting and divine; a rapture tenfold greater @@ -2463,10 +2446,10 @@ latter be not sparing. Mace, in discreet measure, left flowing in the liquid will give the finishing, the indispensable touch. Oh, the inexhaustible resources of the sea! With these -delights rank <i>bisque</i>, that priceless <i>purée</i>, made +delights rank <i>bisque</i>, that priceless <i>purée</i>, made of crayfish—in this case a pinch of allspice instead of mace—and if in its fullest glory you -would know it, go eat it at the Lapérouse on +would know it, go eat it at the Lapérouse on the Quai des Grands Augustins; eat it, as from the window of the low room in the <i>entresol</i>, you look over toward the towers of Notre Dame.</p> @@ -2496,10 +2479,10 @@ forgotten. And yet, year by year, it goes on, unostentatiously and surely increasing in price; year by year, it establishes, with firm hold, its preeminence upon the <i>menu</i> of every well-regulated -<i>table d'hôte</i>.</p> +<i>table d'hôte</i>.</p> <p>But here pause a moment, and reflect. For -it is this very <i>table d'hôte</i> which bids fair to be +it is this very <i>table d'hôte</i> which bids fair to be the sole's undoing. If it has been maligned and misunderstood, it is because, swaddled in bread-crumbs, fried in indifferent butter, it has @@ -2542,7 +2525,7 @@ inspiring, more godlike. Turn to the French <i>chef</i> and learn wisdom from him.</p> <p>First and foremost in this glorious repertory -comes <i>sole à la Normande</i>, which, under another +comes <i>sole à la Normande</i>, which, under another name, is the special distinction and pride of the Restaurant Marguery. Take your sole—from the waters of Dieppe would you have the best—and @@ -2582,7 +2565,7 @@ deep and muddy enough to hide your shame.</p> <p>Put to severest test, the love of the sole for the oyster is never betrayed. Would you be convinced—and it is worth the trouble—experiment -with <i>sole farcie aux huîtres</i>, a dish so perfect +with <i>sole farcie aux huîtres</i>, a dish so perfect that surely, like manna, it must have come straight from Heaven. In prosaic practical <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_93" id="Page_93">93</a></span> @@ -2591,14 +2574,14 @@ sole with forcemeat of oysters and truffles, you season with salt and carrot and lemon, you steep it in white wine—not sweet, or the sole is dishonoured—you cook it in the oven, and -you serve the happy fish on a rich <i>ragoût</i> of the +you serve the happy fish on a rich <i>ragoût</i> of the oysters and truffles. Or, another tender conceit that you may make yours to your own great profit and enlightenment, is <i>sole farcie aux crevettes</i>. In this case it is wise to fillet the sole and wrap each fillet about the shrimps, which have been well mixed and pounded with butter. -A rich <i>Béchamel</i> sauce and garniture of lemons +A rich <i>Béchamel</i> sauce and garniture of lemons complete a composition so masterly that, before it, as before a fine Velasquez, criticism is silenced.</p> @@ -2696,9 +2679,9 @@ bread crumbed mouth, would be cast for ever into outer darkness. Sentiment there may be: not born, however, of Thackeray's verse, but <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_98" id="Page_98">98</a></span> -of days spent in Provençal sunshine, of banquets -eaten at Provençal tables. Call for <i>Bouillabaisse</i> -in the Paris restaurant, at the Lapérouse +of days spent in Provençal sunshine, of banquets +eaten at Provençal tables. Call for <i>Bouillabaisse</i> +in the Paris restaurant, at the Lapérouse or Marguery's (you might call for it for a year and a day in London restaurants and always in vain); and if the dish brought back something @@ -2746,7 +2729,7 @@ that man may know how goodly a thing it is to eat <i>Bouillabaisse</i> at noon on a warm summer day.</p> <p>But when the hour comes, turn from the -hotel, however excellent; turn from the Provençal +hotel, however excellent; turn from the Provençal version of the Parisian Duval, however cheap and nasty; choose rather the native <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_100" id="Page_100">100</a></span> @@ -2764,13 +2747,13 @@ that saw him shoot all his lions! A <i>coup de vin</i>, and, as you eat, as you watch, with eyes half blinded, the glittering, glowing picture, you begin to understand the meaning of the southern -<i>galéjade</i>. Your heart softens, the endless +<i>galéjade</i>. Your heart softens, the endless beggars no longer beg from you in vain, while only the slenderness of your purse keeps you from buying out every boy with fans or matches, every stray Moor with silly slippers and sillier antimacassars; your imagination is kindled, so -that later, at the gay <i>café</i>, where still you sit in +that later, at the gay <i>café</i>, where still you sit in the open street, as you look at the Turks and sailors, at the Arabs and Lascars, at the Eastern women in trousers and niggers in rags, in @@ -2778,7 +2761,7 @@ a word, at Marseilles' "Congress of Nations," <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_101" id="Page_101">101</a></span> that even Barnum in his most ambitious moments never approached, far less surpassed, -you, too, believe that had Paris but its Canebière, +you, too, believe that had Paris but its Canebière, it might be transformed into a little Marseilles on the banks of the Seine. So potent is the influence of blessed <i>Bouillabaisse</i>!</p> @@ -2794,12 +2777,12 @@ hours may be gently loafed away, until the Angelus rings a joyful summons to M. Bernard's hotel in the shady <i>Place</i>. Dark and cool is the spacious dining-room; eager and attentive -the bewildered Désirée. Be not a minute +the bewildered Désirée. Be not a minute late, for M. Bernard's <i>Bouillabaisse</i> is justly famed, and not only all Marseilles, but all the country near hastens thither to eat it on Sundays, -when it is served in its <i>édition de luxe</i>. -Pretty Arlésiennes in dainty fichus, cyclists in +when it is served in its <i>édition de luxe</i>. +Pretty Arlésiennes in dainty fichus, cyclists in knickerbockers, rich Marseillais, painters from Paris join in praise and thanksgiving. And <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_102" id="Page_102">102</a></span> @@ -2869,7 +2852,7 @@ colour is an inspiration to the painter, the subtlety of its flavour a text to the poet. Montenard and Dauphin may go on, year after year, painting olive-lined roads and ports of Toulon: -the true Provençal artist will be he who fills +the true Provençal artist will be he who fills his canvas with the radiance and richness of <i>Bouillabaisse</i>.</p> @@ -2911,12 +2894,12 @@ pint was the quantity needed by Mr Weller's friend to destroy the delicacy of its flavour, the salt sweetness of its aroma. The Greeks knew <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_106" id="Page_106">106</a></span> -better: according to Athenæus, boiled and fried +better: according to Athenæus, boiled and fried they served their oysters, finding them, however, best of all when roasted in the coals till the shells opened. As early as the seventeenth -century, the French, preparing them <i>en étuvée</i> -and <i>en fricassée</i>, included them in their <i>Délices de +century, the French, preparing them <i>en étuvée</i> +and <i>en fricassée</i>, included them in their <i>Délices de la campagne</i>. The American to-day exhausts his genius for invention in devising rare and cunning methods by which to extract their full @@ -3082,7 +3065,7 @@ dish to hold so fine a work of art be a shell, with a suggestion of the sea in its graceful curves and tender tints. Or, if imagination would be more daring, let the same shell hold -<i>huîtres farcies</i>, cunningly contrived with eels +<i>huîtres farcies</i>, cunningly contrived with eels and oysters, and parsley and mushrooms, and spices and cream, and egg and aromatic herbs. So fantastic a contrivance as this touches upon @@ -3111,10 +3094,10 @@ seldom falls to the lot of mortals.</p> <p>Or if to the past your fancy wanders, prepare your oysters, seventeenth century-fashion, <i>en -étuvée</i>, boiled in their own liquor, flavoured +étuvée</i>, boiled in their own liquor, flavoured with ingredients so various as oranges and chives, and served with bread-crumbs; or else, -<i>en fricassée</i>, cooked with onion and butter, +<i>en fricassée</i>, cooked with onion and butter, dipped in batter, and sprinkled with orange juice. Or again, in sheer waywardness, curry or devil them, though in this disguise no man @@ -3147,7 +3130,7 @@ rival of mushrooms or of chestnuts.</p> <p>It is a grave mistake, however, to rank the oyster as the only shell-fish of importance. The French know better. So did the Greeks, if -Athenæus can be trusted. Mussels, oysters, +Athenæus can be trusted. Mussels, oysters, scallops, and cockles led the list, according to Diocles, the Carystian. Thus are they enumerated by still another authority:—</p> @@ -3161,7 +3144,7 @@ by still another authority:—</p> </div></div></div> <p>The mussel is still the delight of the French -<i>table d'hôte</i> breakfast. Charming to look at is +<i>table d'hôte</i> breakfast. Charming to look at is <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_115" id="Page_115">115</a></span> the deep dish where, floating in parsley-strewn sauce, the beautiful purple shells open gently @@ -3176,7 +3159,7 @@ as they are with 'Arriet and her pin, the fastidious affect to despise. It has been written of late, by a novelist seeking to be witty, that there is no poetry in periwinkles; but -Æschylus could stoop to mention them in his +Æschylus could stoop to mention them in his great tragedies. The "degradation of the lower classes" the same weak wit attributes to overindulgence in winkles. With as much @@ -3215,11 +3198,11 @@ moreover, to amatory enjoyment." With such a character, its two hearts count for little; far gone, indeed, must be the sentimentalist of our moral age who would stay its slayer's hand. -What if it be true, as Chamæleon of Pontus +What if it be true, as Chamæleon of Pontus said of old, that from listening to its singing in desert places man arrived at the art of music? <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_118" id="Page_118">118</a></span> -Alive it may have an æsthetic value; but if it +Alive it may have an æsthetic value; but if it be without morals should it not perish? In eating it, therefore, does not man perform a solemn duty? Nay, should not the New Woman @@ -3306,7 +3289,7 @@ they must simmer gently on their couch of cabbage. To evolve the required flavour, into the same pot must go a saveloy, and perhaps salt pork in slices, a bunch of fragrant herbs, onions -and carrots and cloves and salt and butter <i>à discrétion</i>. +and carrots and cloves and salt and butter <i>à discrétion</i>. The birds must be drained before they pass from the pot to the dish; around them the cabbage, likewise drained, must be set as a @@ -3315,7 +3298,7 @@ be placed here and there. Behold another of the many good gifts France has presented to us.</p> -<p><i>Perdrix à l'Espagnole</i> may again vary anew +<p><i>Perdrix à l'Espagnole</i> may again vary anew the delicious monotony. In this variety the partridges are boiled, covered with a rich gravy, and plentifully adorned with green peppers. @@ -3357,7 +3340,7 @@ your Dish with Sweetmeats and Sugarplums."</p> <p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_123" id="Page_123">123</a></span> Here is another device, fantastic chiefly in -name: "Partridges <i>à l'eau béniste</i> or Holy +name: "Partridges <i>à l'eau béniste</i> or Holy Water." It has the virtue of simplicity. "Take partridges and rost them, and when they are rosted, cut them into little pieces, and @@ -3374,7 +3357,7 @@ Cook Giles is an authority to be respected, of whose recipes the poor prosaic modern kitchen may not receive too many? Space, therefore, must be yielded to at least one more: -"Partridges à la Tonnelette." "Take a partridge +"Partridges à la Tonnelette." "Take a partridge and rost it, then put it into a Pot; this done, take white Bread and scortch or toste it very brown, but not burn it, and put it a-steeping @@ -3396,7 +3379,7 @@ partridges may be braised with mushrooms or truffles; that they may be broiled or baked; that they disgrace neither pie nor pudding; and that they offer welcome basis for a <i>salmi</i> -and <i>purée</i>. Lay this to heart.</p> +and <i>purée</i>. Lay this to heart.</p> <hr class="c35" /> @@ -3519,7 +3502,7 @@ go.</p> all too inadequate. The devout yearns for something more ornate, something more elaborate. Let the outcome of this yearning be <i>oie -à la chipolata</i>, and Michael in Paradise will smell +à la chipolata</i>, and Michael in Paradise will smell the sweet savour and smile. It is difficult, but delicious. Cover the bottom of your stew-pan with lard; place upon it two or three slices of @@ -3538,7 +3521,7 @@ for an hour, lift it out, arrange it on a fair dish, and envelop it in the very richest <i>chipolata</i> it is in your power to make. And what is a <i>chipolata</i>? An Italian creation half sauce, half -<i>ragoût</i>; fashioned of carrots and turnips, and +<i>ragoût</i>; fashioned of carrots and turnips, and chestnuts and onions, and sausage and mushrooms, and artichokes and celery, and strong veal gravy.</p> @@ -3555,7 +3538,7 @@ in the telling. "Take your Green-geese and boyl them the usual way, and when they are boyled take them up and fry them whole in a frying-pan to colour them, either with the fat -of bacon or hog's-lard, called nowadays <i>manège +of bacon or hog's-lard, called nowadays <i>manège de pork</i>; then take ginger, long pepper, and cloves; beat all this together, and season them with this spice; a little parsley and sage, and @@ -3586,7 +3569,7 @@ your stomach, that it be first salted for a week. With onion sauce it may be becomingly adorned, or again, with simple cabbage, boiled, chopped small, and stewed in butter. Or, plunge gaily -into the <i>rococo</i> style, and decorate it <i>à l' Arlésienne</i>; +into the <i>rococo</i> style, and decorate it <i>à l' Arlésienne</i>; <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_132" id="Page_132">132</a></span> stuffed with onions and chestnuts, boiled in company with carrots and celery and onions @@ -3595,10 +3578,10 @@ it is as chock full of playful surprises as the <i>Cartuja</i> of Granada. Another device to be recommended is the grilling of the legs and the serving them with <i>laitues farcies</i>—and Michael -will laugh outright; or <i>à la Provençale</i>, +will laugh outright; or <i>à la Provençale</i>, and words fail; or <i>aux tomates</i>, the love-apples that not the hardest heart can resist. Of the -great and good Carême these are the suggestions; +great and good Carême these are the suggestions; treasure them up, therefore, where memory may not rust or aspiration decay, for the dinner may come when you will be glad to @@ -3610,9 +3593,9 @@ In far Strasburg geese, in perpetual darkness and torture, fatten with strange morbid fat, that the sensitive, who shrink from a bull fight and cry out against the cruelty of the cockpit, -may revel in <i>pâté de foie gras</i>. So long as the +may revel in <i>pâté de foie gras</i>. So long as the world lives, may there still be this delectable -<i>pâté</i> to delight. But why not be honest: admit +<i>pâté</i> to delight. But why not be honest: admit that between the torture of the bull that we <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_133" id="Page_133">133</a></span> may see, and the torture of the goose that we @@ -3788,7 +3771,7 @@ tomatoes in slices, and to serve a dish that baffles description. Or you may journey <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_141" id="Page_141">141</a></span> to Spain, and find that country's kitchen slandered -when you eat <i>poulet au ris à l' Espagnole</i>, +when you eat <i>poulet au ris à l' Espagnole</i>, chicken cooked in a <i>marmite</i> with rice, artichokes, green and red chillies, and salad oil, and served, where the artist dwells, in the blessed @@ -3836,7 +3819,7 @@ it can bring you but happiness and peace.</p> mushroom—the majestic, magnificent mushroom. Glorious Greeks feasted on it and were glad. What say Poliochus and Antiphanes? -What Athenæus? In verse only, could be duly +What Athenæus? In verse only, could be duly praised those fragrant mushrooms of old, which were roasted for dinner and eaten with delicate snails caught in the dewy morning, and olives @@ -3893,7 +3876,7 @@ there are when it cannot fail to pall—enrich your grilled mushrooms with a sauce of melted butter and onions and parsley, and a single note of garlic, and the result will be -enchanting mushrooms <i>à la bourdelaise</i>. If <i>au +enchanting mushrooms <i>à la bourdelaise</i>. If <i>au beurre</i> you would eat them, to accord with your passing mood of suave serenity, stew them gently and considerately in daintiest stew-pan @@ -3902,7 +3885,7 @@ powdered mace exult, as the romantic elements of the stirring poem.</p> <p>A still more poetic fancy may be met and -sweetly satisfied by <i>ragoût</i> of mushrooms. Listen +sweetly satisfied by <i>ragoût</i> of mushrooms. Listen reverently, for it is food fit to be set before the angels. Over the mushrooms, first boiled on a quick fire, pour a gill of pure red wine—and @@ -3918,7 +3901,7 @@ were, from all eternity for this one interval of rapture.</p> <p>Possibility of rapture there is likewise in a -white <i>fricassée</i> of mushrooms, which, if you have +white <i>fricassée</i> of mushrooms, which, if you have your own happiness at heart, you cannot afford to despise. Secure then, without delay—for who would play fast and loose with happiness?—a @@ -3965,7 +3948,7 @@ for ever, in all cheerfulness and glee?</p> <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_148" id="Page_148">148</a></span> harem is the brilliant golden egg. Sweet symphonies in brown and gold are the dishes their -union yields. <i>Œufs brouillés aux champignons</i>—has +union yields. <i>Œufs brouillés aux champignons</i>—has not the very name a pretty sound? It is a delight best suited to the midday breakfast; a joyous course to follow the anchovy salad, the @@ -3985,7 +3968,7 @@ picture so perfect.</p> <p>Borrow a hint from the Hungarians, and vary the arrangement to your own profit. Make a -<i>purée</i> of the mushrooms, as rich as cream permits, +<i>purée</i> of the mushrooms, as rich as cream permits, and offer it as foundation for eggs poached deftly and swiftly: a harmony in soft dove-like greys and pale yellow, the result. It is an admirable @@ -4054,20 +4037,20 @@ ravishing that even <i>sauce Soubise</i>, the once inseparable, may for the moment be easily forgotten. And veal is no less susceptible to its charms: let <i>noisettes de veau aux champignons</i> be -the <i>entrée</i> of to-morrow's dinner, and you will +the <i>entrée</i> of to-morrow's dinner, and you will return thanks to your deliverer from the roast!</p> <p>As sauce, mushroom is the chosen one of fowl -and fish alike. Join your mushrooms to <i>Béchamel</i>, +and fish alike. Join your mushrooms to <i>Béchamel</i>, one of the great mother sauces, and you will -have the wonder that Carême, its creator, served +have the wonder that Carême, its creator, served first to the Princesse de B. How resist so aristocratic a precedent? <i>Grasse</i>, or <i>maigre</i>, you can make it, as the season demands. Or to a like -end you may devote that other marvel, <i>purée de -champignons à la Laguipierre</i>, whose patron was +end you may devote that other marvel, <i>purée de +champignons à la Laguipierre</i>, whose patron was the great Louis de Rohan, and into whose mysteries -Carême was initiated by the "Grand +Carême was initiated by the "Grand M. Dunan." Ham, tomato, nutmeg, pepper, lemon juice, are the chief ingredients that enter into its composition. Who, after testing it, will @@ -4075,21 +4058,21 @@ dare find naught but vexation and vanity in the <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_152" id="Page_152">152</a></span> reign of the Sixteenth Louis? Subtle variation may be had by substituting as foundation, <i>sauce -à la régence</i> or <i>sauce à la princesse</i> for <i>sauce Béchamel</i>; +à la régence</i> or <i>sauce à la princesse</i> for <i>sauce Béchamel</i>; while a sensation apart springs from the lofty alliance between oysters and mushrooms.</p> <p>How natural that for masterpieces in mushrooms royalty so often has stood sponsor! Upon the Prince of Wurtemberg rests the glorious responsibility -of Seine shad <i>à la purée de champignons</i>. +of Seine shad <i>à la purée de champignons</i>. If history records not his name, a prince—in spirit at least—must also have been the first happy man to eat red mullets <i>aux champignons</i>, -or eels <i>aux huîtres et aux champignons</i>; show +or eels <i>aux huîtres et aux champignons</i>; show yourself as princely before you are a week older. While a king was he who first smiled upon -that kingly <i>ragoût</i> of mushrooms, mussels, and +that kingly <i>ragoût</i> of mushrooms, mussels, and shrimps. Be you a king in your turn—there are few pleasures equal to it.</p> @@ -4107,7 +4090,7 @@ them into sauce. Or—here is another suggestion, and be thankful for it—mince your chicken, which toast will receive gladly as a covering and set upon it, as already upon <i>œufs -brouillés</i>, the mushrooms grilled in butter. Long +brouillés</i>, the mushrooms grilled in butter. Long might you live, far might you wander, before chancing upon another delicacy so worthy. Though, truth to tell—and where gastronomy @@ -4137,7 +4120,7 @@ feet and lobster claws and nutmeg and cloves alone? What, according to the "Complete Court Cook," so proper for the second course as the patty all of mushrooms? What -garniture fairer for "ragoo" or <i>fricassée</i>, according +garniture fairer for "ragoo" or <i>fricassée</i>, according to the same authority, than mushroom <i>farcis</i>? But, however they may be served and eaten, mushrooms you must make yours at any @@ -4265,7 +4248,7 @@ to rub the salad bowl, and then cast aside, its virtue may not be exaggerated. For it, as for lovers, the season of seasons is the happy spring time. Its true home is Provence. What would -be the land of the troubadour and the Félibre +be the land of the troubadour and the Félibre without the <i>ail</i> that festoons every greengrocer's shop, that adorns every dish at every banquet of rich and poor alike? As well rid <i>bouillabaisse</i> @@ -4359,7 +4342,7 @@ Philemon,—</p> <p>A pretty mess, indeed; and who is there brave enough to-day to test it? Honey and onion! it -suggests the ingenious contrivances of the mediæval +suggests the ingenious contrivances of the mediæval kitchen. The most daring experiment now would be a dash of wine, red or white, a suspicion of mustard, a touch of tomato in the @@ -4393,8 +4376,8 @@ For, plucking the soul from the onion, he laid bare its hidden and sweetest treasure to the elect. Scarce a sauce is served that owes not fragrance and flavour to the wine-scented root; -to it, <i>Béarnaise</i>, <i>Maître d'Hôtel</i>, <i>Espagnole</i>, <i>Italienne</i>, -<i>Béchamel</i>, <i>Provençale</i>, and who shall say +to it, <i>Béarnaise</i>, <i>Maître d'Hôtel</i>, <i>Espagnole</i>, <i>Italienne</i>, +<i>Béchamel</i>, <i>Provençale</i>, and who shall say how many more? look for the last supreme touch that redeems them from insipid commonplace. But <i>Sauce Soubise</i> is the very idealisation @@ -4438,7 +4421,7 @@ Paradise, vying with Heine's roast goose, will offer of their own accord at celestial banquets. What wonder that a certain famous French count despised the prosaic politician who had -never heard of cutlets <i>à la Soubise</i>?</p> +never heard of cutlets <i>à la Soubise</i>?</p> <p>However, not alone in sauce can the condescending onion come to the aid of dull, substantial @@ -4484,9 +4467,9 @@ clamour for moderation. A salad of tomatoes buried under thick layers of this powerful esculent must disgust; gently sprinkled with chopped-up chives or shallots, it enraptures. -Potatoes <i>à la Lyonnaise</i>, curried eggs, Irish stew, +Potatoes <i>à la Lyonnaise</i>, curried eggs, Irish stew, <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_167" id="Page_167">167</a></span> -<i>Gulyas</i>, <i>ragoût</i>, alike demand restraint in their +<i>Gulyas</i>, <i>ragoût</i>, alike demand restraint in their preparation, a sweet reasonableness in the hand that distributes the onion.</p> @@ -4547,7 +4530,7 @@ yields few more precious moments. Until spring comes, however, you may do worse than apply the same treatment to the older onion. In this case, as pleasure's crown of pleasure, -adorn the surface with grated Gruyère, and, +adorn the surface with grated Gruyère, and, like the ancient hero, you will wish your throat as long as a crane's neck, that so you might the longer and more leisurely taste what you @@ -4590,7 +4573,7 @@ men and women a new lease of pleasure. Sad and drear were the days when the <i>gourmet</i> thought to feast, and the beautiful scarlet fruit had no place upon his table. The ancient <i>chef</i> -knew it not, nor the mediæval artist who, even +knew it not, nor the mediæval artist who, even without it, could create marvellous works the modern may not hope to rival. Like so many good things, it first saw the light in that happy @@ -4639,7 +4622,7 @@ include this meat or that vegetable <i>al pomodoro</i>? The very Spaniard, whom rumour weds irrevocably to garlic, nourishes a tender passion for the voluptuous red fruit, and wins rapture from -it. And deep and true is the Provençal's love +it. And deep and true is the Provençal's love for his <i>pomme d'amour</i>; is not the name a measure of his affection? The Love Apple! Were there, after all, tomatoes in Judea, and were @@ -4690,8 +4673,8 @@ seasoned with discretion, leave little to ask <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_175" id="Page_175">175</a></span> for. Prepare, instead, sausage meat, garlic, parsley, tarragon, and chives, and the tomatoes -so stuffed you may without pedantry call <i>à la -Grimod de la Reynière</i>. But whatever you call +so stuffed you may without pedantry call <i>à la +Grimod de la Reynière</i>. But whatever you call them, count upon happiness in the eating.</p> <p>Second point of the meditation: the tomato @@ -4707,10 +4690,10 @@ its towns and villages marked by this dish of dishes. With rice, tomatoes are no less in pleasant, peaceful unity; in stuffed <i>paprika</i>, or pepper, they find their true affinity. Grilled, -they make a sympathetic garniture for <i>filet piqué -à la Richelieu</i>; stuffed, they are the proper accompaniment -of <i>tournedos à la Leslie</i>; neatly -halved, they serve as a foundation to soles <i>à la +they make a sympathetic garniture for <i>filet piqué +à la Richelieu</i>; stuffed, they are the proper accompaniment +of <i>tournedos à la Leslie</i>; neatly +halved, they serve as a foundation to soles <i>à la Loie Fuller</i>. Chickens clamour for them as ally, and so does the saltest of salt cod. In a word, a new combination they might with ease provide @@ -4776,7 +4759,7 @@ French <i>cuisine</i>. And here, a suggestion to be received with loud, jubilant <i>Alleluias</i>! Follow the example of Attila's heirs, and, as last touch, pour cream upon your tomato sauce. He who -has known and eaten and loved <i>paprika gefüllte</i> +has known and eaten and loved <i>paprika gefüllte</i> in the wilds of Transylvania, will bear willing witness to the admirable nature of this expedient.</p> @@ -4841,7 +4824,7 @@ wrought into tubes and ribbons, squares and lozenges, come to gladden the sinking heart and cheer the drooping spirits. Why despair when <i>macaroni</i> is always to be had, inestimable -as a vegetable, unrivalled as an <i>entrée</i>, a perfect +as a vegetable, unrivalled as an <i>entrée</i>, a perfect meal, if you choose, in itself?</p> <p>Upon the imagination of those to whom food @@ -4960,7 +4943,7 @@ of the gravy, spice it with cloves, bring <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_185" id="Page_185">185</a></span> out the sweet <i>bouquet garni</i>, serve with butter and Parmesan cheese as before, and call the -result <i>Macaroni à la Napolitaine</i>. <i>Spaghetti</i>, here +result <i>Macaroni à la Napolitaine</i>. <i>Spaghetti</i>, here again, will answer the purpose as well, nor will the pretty, flat, wavy ribbon species come amiss. To court perfection, rely upon mushrooms @@ -4986,11 +4969,11 @@ and cayenne, you may create a savoury beyond compare. Or combined with the same ingredients <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_186" id="Page_186">186</a></span> you may stew your <i>macaroni</i> in milk, and -revel in <i>macaroni sauté</i>; worse a hundred times, +revel in <i>macaroni sauté</i>; worse a hundred times, truly, might you fare.</p> <p>But, if you would be wholly reckless, why, -then try <i>Macaroni à la Pontife</i>, and know that +then try <i>Macaroni à la Pontife</i>, and know that human ambition may scarce pretend to nobler achievements. For a mould of goodly proportions you fill with <i>macaroni</i> and forcemeat of @@ -5231,7 +5214,7 @@ it must be. The French have a tendency to abuse it; they will cut it in great slices to spread between layers of tomatoes or cucumbers. But there is a touch of grossness in this -device. It is just the <i>soupçon</i> you crave, just the +device. It is just the <i>soupçon</i> you crave, just the subtle flavour it alone can impart. You do not want your salad, when it comes on the table, to suggest nothing so much as the stewed steak @@ -5329,13 +5312,13 @@ the Midi—and Italy be exhausted. And none <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_200" id="Page_200">200</a></span> may be eaten becomingly without the oil and vinegar dressing; all are the pleasanter for the -<i>soupçon</i> of onion, and the egg, hard-boiled; a +<i>soupçon</i> of onion, and the egg, hard-boiled; a few gain by more variegated garniture.</p> <p>But these minor salads—as they might be classed—pale before the glories of the tomato: the <i>pomodoro</i> of the Italian, the <i>pomme d'amour</i> of -the Provençal—sweet, musical names, that linger +the Provençal—sweet, musical names, that linger tenderly on the lips. And, indeed, if the tomato were veritably the "love apple" of the Scriptures, and, in Adam's proprietorship, the @@ -5373,8 +5356,8 @@ one eats not merely to digest.</p> virtues undreamed of by the blind who had thought it but a cheap article of food to satisfy hunger, even by the French who had -carried it to such sublime heights in their <i>purées</i> -and <i>soufflés</i>, their <i>Parisiennes</i> and <i>Lyonnaises</i>. +carried it to such sublime heights in their <i>purées</i> +and <i>soufflés</i>, their <i>Parisiennes</i> and <i>Lyonnaises</i>. Not until it has been allowed to cool, been cut in thin slices, been dressed as a salad, were its subtlest charms suspected. To the German—to @@ -5510,7 +5493,7 @@ one, but <i>the</i> one in many, the crowning glory of the glorious vegetable world of the South. Nothing in common has this delectable salad <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_208" id="Page_208">208</a></span> -with the <i>macédoine</i>, which the Spaniard also +with the <i>macédoine</i>, which the Spaniard also makes. Peas and carrots, potatoes and tomatoes, beans and cauliflowers meet to new purpose, when peppers, red and ardent, wander @@ -5566,7 +5549,7 @@ for every travel-writer's wit, the daily fare of <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_210" id="Page_210">210</a></span> its inventor and his descendants. To the Andalusian <i>gaspacho</i> is as <i>macaroni</i> to the Neapolitan, -<i>bouillabaisse</i> to the Provençal, chops and +<i>bouillabaisse</i> to the Provençal, chops and steaks to the Englishman. In hotels, grotesquely French or pretentiously English, where butter comes out of tins, and salad is @@ -5628,7 +5611,7 @@ Andalusians have not been labouring under a delusion these many years. The pepper is a stimulant; vinegar, oil, and water unite in a drink more cooling and thirst-quenching -than abominable red wine of Valdepeñas. +than abominable red wine of Valdepeñas. Would you be luxurious, would you have your <i>gaspacho</i> differ somewhat from the poor man's, drop in a lump of ice, and double @@ -5737,8 +5720,8 @@ and well-meaning rolls of butter, and, it may be, chilling celery. But cheese, which in many <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_218" id="Page_218">218</a></span> ways has achieved such marvels, may be wrought -into savouries beyond compare. As <i>soufflé</i>, either -<i>au Gruyère</i> or <i>au Parmesan</i>, it becomes light and +into savouries beyond compare. As <i>soufflé</i>, either +<i>au Gruyère</i> or <i>au Parmesan</i>, it becomes light and dainty as the poet's lyric, and surely should be served only on porcelain of the finest. It is simple to say how the miracle is worked: a @@ -5750,21 +5733,21 @@ afterthought; and twenty-five minutes in the expectant oven will do the rest. But was ever lyric turned out by rule and measure? Even the inspired artist has been known to fail with -his <i>soufflé</i>. Here, indeed, is a miracle, best +his <i>soufflé</i>. Here, indeed, is a miracle, best entrusted to none but the genius.</p> -<p><i>Canapé au Parmesan</i> has pretensions which the +<p><i>Canapé au Parmesan</i> has pretensions which the result justifies. On the bread, fried as golden as the haloes of Fra Angelico's angels, the grated Parmesan, mingled with salt and pepper, is spread. A Dutch oven yields temporary asylum until the cheese be melted, when, -quicker than thought, the <i>canapés</i> are set upon a +quicker than thought, the <i>canapés</i> are set upon a pretty dish and served to happy mortals. <i>Ramaquins</i> of cheese, in cases or out, can boast of <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_219" id="Page_219">219</a></span> -charms the most seductive. Nor in <i>gougère</i> or -<i>beignet</i> or <i>bouchée</i> will Parmesan betray confidence. +charms the most seductive. Nor in <i>gougère</i> or +<i>beignet</i> or <i>bouchée</i> will Parmesan betray confidence. Again, in <i>pailles</i>, or straws, on fire with cayenne, and tied with fluttering ribbons into enticing bunches, this happy child of the South @@ -5787,7 +5770,7 @@ sprinkled with <i>paprika</i>, and refreshed with lemon juice, anchovies become quite irresistible as <i>Orlys d'anchois</i>. Prepared in cases, like Parmesan, they are proof against criticism as -<i>tartelettes</i>. Now figuring as <i>petites bouchées</i>, now +<i>tartelettes</i>. Now figuring as <i>petites bouchées</i>, now as <i>rissolettes</i>, they fail not to awaken new and <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_220" id="Page_220">220</a></span> delicious emotions. They simply clamour for @@ -5796,8 +5779,8 @@ hard-boiled egg passed through a sieve, to-morrow with olives from sunny Provence; thin brown bread and butter, or toast, the crisp foundation. But rarely do they go masquerading -so riotously as in the garb of <i>croûtes d'anchois</i>: -first, the golden <i>croûton</i>, then a slice of +so riotously as in the garb of <i>croûtes d'anchois</i>: +first, the golden <i>croûton</i>, then a slice of tomato, then a slice of cucumber, then a layer of caviar, then a layer of anchovies scarlet with <i>paprika</i> and garnished with leaves of chervil; @@ -5813,19 +5796,19 @@ ingredients of the <i>farce</i>—come like a flaming ray of southern sunlight. Haddock is smoked in the land across the border solely that it may ravish the elect in its grandest phase as <i>croustades -de merluche fumée</i>. By the shores of the blue +de merluche fumée</i>. By the shores of the blue Mediterranean, sardines are packed in tins that the delicate diner of the far north may know <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_221" id="Page_221">221</a></span> -pleasure's crown of pleasure in <i>canapé de sardines -diablées</i>. Caviar craves no more elaborate seasoning +pleasure's crown of pleasure in <i>canapé de sardines +diablées</i>. Caviar craves no more elaborate seasoning than lemon juice and <i>paprika</i> can give; herring roe sighs for devilled biscuit as friendly resting-place. Shrimp and lobster vie with -one another for the honour either <i>bouchée</i> or -<i>canapé</i> bestows. And ham and tongue pray +one another for the honour either <i>bouchée</i> or +<i>canapé</i> bestows. And ham and tongue pray eagerly to be grated and transformed into bewildering -<i>croûtes</i>. The ever-willing mushroom +<i>croûtes</i>. The ever-willing mushroom refuses to be outsped in the blessed contest, but murmurs audibly, "<i>Au gratin</i> I am adorable;" while the egg whispers, "Stuff me, and the @@ -5849,7 +5832,7 @@ Endless is the stimulating list. For cannot the humble bloater be pressed into service, and the modest cod? Do not many more vegetables than spinach, that plays so strong a part in -<i>Raviole à la Genoese</i>, answer promptly when +<i>Raviole à la Genoese</i>, answer promptly when called upon for aid? And what of the gherkin? What of the almond—the almond mingled with caviar and cayenne? And what of @@ -5913,7 +5896,7 @@ from the huge carcase of a well-battered Cheddar, washed down with foaming shandygaff, <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_225" id="Page_225">225</a></span> seemed more delicious far than the choicest -dishes at the Lapérouse or Voisin's. Memory +dishes at the Lapérouse or Voisin's. Memory journeys back with joy to the fragrant, tough, little goat's cheese, with flask of Chianti, set out upon the rough wooden table in front of @@ -5922,7 +5905,7 @@ and cycle rested at the hour when shade is most pleasant to men. How many a tramp, through the valleys and over the passes of Switzerland, has been made the easier by the substantial -slice of good Gruyère and the cup of +slice of good Gruyère and the cup of wine well cooled in near snow-drifts! How many rides awheel through the pleasant land of France have been the swifter for the Camembert @@ -6011,7 +5994,7 @@ at touch of the knife, is deadlier far than all the seven deadly sins. It should be soft and flowing almost as languid <i>Fromage de Brie</i>, indolent and melting on its couch of straw. -Beyond all cheese, Gruyère calls for study and +Beyond all cheese, Gruyère calls for study and reflection, so many are the shams, by an unscrupulous market furnished, in its place. As palely yellow as a Liberty scarf, as riddled @@ -6251,12 +6234,12 @@ bower cream would savour of undue heaviness, would reveal itself all too substantial and palpable a lover. Again, when elaborate dinner draws to an end, and dessert follows upon long -procession of soup and fish and <i>entrées</i> and roasts +procession of soup and fish and <i>entrées</i> and roasts and vegetables and salads and poultry and sweets and savouries, and who knows what—then the strawberry becomes most irresistible upon yielding itself, a willing victim, to the -bold demands of Kirsch. A <i>macédoine</i> of Kirsch-drowned +bold demands of Kirsch. A <i>macédoine</i> of Kirsch-drowned strawberries, iced to a point, is a dish for which gods might languish without shame.</p> @@ -6275,18 +6258,18 @@ soda-water and ice-cream, the conservative Londoner may now drink it at Fuller's. In the flat, open, national tart, the Frenchman places it, and congratulates himself upon the work of -art which is the outcome. Or, accepting Gouffé +art which is the outcome. Or, accepting Gouffé as master, he will soar, one day, to the extraordinary heights of <i>coupe en nougat garnie de fraises</i>, and find a flamboyant colour-print to serve as guide; the next he will descend to the mere homeliness of <i>beignets de fraises</i>; and, as he waxes more adventurous, he will produce -<i>bouchées de dame</i>, or <i>pain à la duchesse</i>, <i>madeleines en +<i>bouchées de dame</i>, or <i>pain à la duchesse</i>, <i>madeleines en surprise</i> or <i>profiteroles</i>, each and all with the strawberry for motive. The spirit of enterprise is to be commended, and not one of -Gouffé's list but will repay the student in +Gouffé's list but will repay the student in wealth of experience gained. The lover, however, finds it not always easy to remember the student within him, and if joy in the eating be @@ -6472,7 +6455,7 @@ may be endured when orange is their basis. Go to Madrid or Granada, drink <i>bebida helada de naranja</i>, and confess that in Spain the teetotallers, if any such exist, have their compensation. -A <i>purée neigeuse, une espèce de glace liquide</i>, +A <i>purée neigeuse, une espèce de glace liquide</i>, Gautier described it in a moment of expansion; and, when art is in question, what Gautier has praised who would revile? With the Spanish @@ -6494,7 +6477,7 @@ to its own everyday uses, and the fruit of poets passes into the food of millions.</p> <p>In fruit salad, orange should be given a leading -and conspicuous rôle, the aromatic little +and conspicuous rôle, the aromatic little Tangerine competing gaily and guilelessly with the ordinary orange of commerce. There is scarce another fruit that grows with which it @@ -6535,7 +6518,7 @@ devote their powers to this course or that, and in one supreme but ill-advised endeavour exhaust their every resource. Invention carries them no further than the soul; even discreet -imitation cannot pilot them beyond the <i>entrée</i>. +imitation cannot pilot them beyond the <i>entrée</i>. With each succeeding dish their folly becomes more obvious, until it culminates in the coffee, which, instead of the divine elixir it should be, @@ -6681,7 +6664,7 @@ mysticism, where no problem discourages earnest seekers after truth, coffee may yet be had in full perfection. In the West, France is not without her children of light, and in the tall -glass of the <i>café</i> or the deep bowl of the <i>auberge</i> +glass of the <i>café</i> or the deep bowl of the <i>auberge</i> <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_255" id="Page_255">255</a></span> coffee sometimes is not unworthy of the name, though chicory, the base, now threatens its @@ -6689,7 +6672,7 @@ ruin. However, Austria, nearer to the mother-country, makes the coffee of France seem but a paltry imitation, so delicious is the beautiful brown liquid, flowing in rich perennial streams -in every <i>café</i>, gilded or more modest. And yet +in every <i>café</i>, gilded or more modest. And yet Austria, in her turn, is eclipsed, wholly and completely, by the home of Attila and Kossuth. Drink, if only once, coffee on the banks of the @@ -6838,7 +6821,7 @@ delay, linger over it lovingly, and then go forth gaily to conquer and rejoice.</p> <p>In the second place—more to be commended—use -a <i>cafétière</i>, or filter of tin or earthenware, +a <i>cafétière</i>, or filter of tin or earthenware, the latter by preference. Place the coffee, ground not too fine, and in the same proportions, in the upper compartment. Pour in @@ -6914,13 +6897,13 @@ if destined for after-dinner delights: but pour into it much milk; half and half would prove proportions within reason. Not out of the way is it to borrow a hint from provincial France -and serve <i>café-au-lait</i> in great bowls, thus tacitly -placing it forever on a plane apart from <i>café +and serve <i>café-au-lait</i> in great bowls, thus tacitly +placing it forever on a plane apart from <i>café noir</i>. Or else, borrow wisdom from wily Magyar and frivolous Austrian, and exquisite, dainty, decorative whipped cream heap up high on the surface of the morning cup. Take train -to-morrow for Budapest; haunt its <i>cafés</i> and +to-morrow for Budapest; haunt its <i>cafés</i> and kiosques, from the stately Reuter to the Danube-commanding Hungaria; study their methods with diligence and sincerity; and then, if @@ -6945,365 +6928,11 @@ words, have been made consistent.<br /> <br /> Any lacking page numbers are those given to blank pages in the original text.<br /> <br /> -St. Estéphe changed to St. Estèphe.</p> +St. Estéphe changed to St. Estèphe.</p> </div> <p> </p> <p> </p> -<hr class="full" /> -<p>***END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE FEASTS OF AUTOLYCUS***</p> -<p>******* This file should be named 41696-h.txt or 41696-h.zip *******</p> -<p>This and all associated files of various formats will be found in:<br /> -<a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/dirs/4/1/6/9/41696">http://www.gutenberg.org/4/1/6/9/41696</a></p> -<p> -Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions -will be renamed.</p> - -<p> -Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no -one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation -(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without -permission and without paying copyright royalties. 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