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diff --git a/41668.txt b/41668.txt deleted file mode 100644 index e4c2747..0000000 --- a/41668.txt +++ /dev/null @@ -1,3568 +0,0 @@ -The Project Gutenberg EBook of Rustic Carpentry, by Paul N. Hasluck - -This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with -almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or -re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included -with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org - - -Title: Rustic Carpentry - -Author: Paul N. Hasluck - -Release Date: December 20, 2012 [EBook #41668] - -Language: English - -Character set encoding: ASCII - -*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK RUSTIC CARPENTRY *** - - - - -Produced by Chris Curnow, Matthias Grammel and the Online -Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This -file was produced from images generously made available -by The Internet Archive) - - - - - -[Transcriber's Note -Emphasis notation for italic is _Text_ and bold is =Text=. -Whole and fractional parts of numbers is displayed as 2-1/4. -Exponents are prefaced by a carat (^) as E^1.] - - - - - RUSTIC CARPENTRY - - - _WITH NUMEROUS ENGRAVINGS AND DIAGRAMS_ - - - EDITED BY - - PAUL N. HASLUCK - - EDITOR OF "WORK" AND "BUILDING WORLD" - AUTHOR OF "HANDYBOOKS FOR HANDICRAFTS," ETC. ETC. - - - [Illustration] - - - CASSELL AND COMPANY, LIMITED - - _LONDON, PARIS, NEW YORK & MELBOURNE. MCMVII_ - - ALL RIGHTS RESERVED - - - - -PREFACE. - - -This Handbook contains, in a form convenient for everyday use, a number -of articles on Rustic Carpentry contributed by various authors to -WORK--one of the journals it is my fortune to edit. - -Readers who may desire additional information respecting special details -of the matters dealt with in this Handbook, or instructions on kindred -subjects, should address a question to the Editor of WORK, La Belle -Sauvage, London, EC., so that it may be answered in the columns of that -journal. - - P. N. HASLUCK. - - _La Belle Sauvage, London._ - _April, 1907._ - - - - -CONTENTS. - - - CHAPTER PAGE - - I.--Light Rustic Work 9 - - II.--Flower Stands, Vases, etc. 22 - - III.--Tables 36 - - IV.--Chairs and Seats 40 - - V.--Gates and Fences 52 - - VI.--Rosery Walk 66 - - VII.--Porches 71 - - VIII.--Canopy for Swing 77 - - IX.--Aviary 83 - - X.--Foot-bridges 92 - - XI.--Verandahs 98 - - XII.--Tool Houses, Garden Shelters, etc. 106 - - XIII.--Summer Houses 126 - - Index 159 - - - - -LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. - - - FIG. PAGE - - 1.--Photograph Frame and Wall Bracket Combined 10 - - 2.--Section of Bracket 11 - - 3.--Small Easel 12 - - 4.--Attaching Support to Easel 13 - - 5.--Mitred Joint 13 - - 6.--Mortise and Tenon Joint 14 - - 7, 8.--Flower Holder 14, 15 - - 9-11.--Rustic Hall Stand 17 - - 12, 13.--Plant Stool 18 - - 14-16.--Window Box 19, 20 - - 17.--Flower-pot Stand 23 - - 18.--Bending Saplings 24 - - 19.--Fixing Rails, etc., to Posts 24 - - 20.--Vase on Tripod Stand 25 - - 21.--Joint of Hexagon Sides of Vase 25 - - 22.--Securing Sides and Legs of Vase to Base 25 - - 23.--Section of Twigs at Angles of Vase 25 - - 24, 25.--Flower-pot Stand 26 - - 26.--Joining Rails to Uprights 27 - - 27.--Supporting End Shelves of Flower-pot Stand 27 - - 28.--Fixing Centre Shelves of Stand 27 - - 29.--Large Square Vase 28 - - 30.--Large Hexagonal Vase 28 - - 31.--Vase with Claw Foot 29 - - 32.--Foot of Rustic Table 30 - - 33.--Garden Plant Tub 31 - - 34, 35.--Mouldings 32 - - 36.--Plant Vase 32 - - 37.--Rectangular Garden Plant Stand 33 - - 38-40.--Rustic Pedestal 34 - - 41.--Flower-pot Stand 35 - - 42.--Square Table 36 - - 43.--Hexagon Table 37 - - 44, 45.--Top of Hexagon Table 38, 39 - - 46.--Armchair 40 - - 47.--Fixing Seat Rails to Leg of Armchair 41 - - 48.--Plan of Armchair Seat Frame 41 - - 49, 50.--Garden Seat 42, 43 - - 51.--Joints of Rails and Posts 43 - - 52.--Arm-rest for Garden Seat 44 - - 53.--Part Plan of Seat 44 - - 54, 55.--Garden Seat 44, 45 - - 56.--Front Rail, Cross Rail, and Battens 45 - - 57.--Part Plan of Seat 46 - - 58-60.--Garden Seat with Canopy 47-49 - - 61.--Plan of Canopy 50 - - 62, 63.--Canopy Panels 50 - - 64.--Plan of Seat 50 - - 65-67.--Garden Gate 52, 53 - - 68-70.--Joints in Gate Frame 54 - - 71, 72.--Fixing Ends of Twigs 54 - - 73.--Closing Stile 54 - - 74-77.--Rustic Gates 55, 56 - - 78-80.--Fences 57, 58 - - 81, 82.--Rustic Trellis with Seats and Gate 59 - - 83.--Vertical Section of Trellis 60 - - 84.--End Post and Trellis 60 - - 85.--Back of Seat for Trellis 60 - - 86.--Alternative Design for Gate 61 - - 87.--Hanging and Latching Gate 62 - - 88.--Catch for Gate 63 - - 89, 90.--Rustic Carriage Entrance 64, 65 - - 91.--Rosery Walk 67 - - 92.--Roof of Rosery Walk 68 - - 93.--Entrance to Rosery Walk 69 - - 94, 95.--Porch 72, 73 - - 96.--Seat and Floor of Cottage Porch 74 - - 97.--Porch at Gable 74 - - 98.--Porch at Eaves 75 - - 99.--Roof for Porch 75 - - 100.--Gable for Porch 76 - - 101, 102.--Rustic Canopy for Swing 77, 78 - - 103.--Fixing Middle Post of Canopy to Sill 79 - - 104.--Joints of Rails, Struts, and Posts for Canopy 79 - - 105.--Securing Cross Rails to Plates and Posts of Canopy 80 - - 106, 107.--Hook and Thimble for Canopy 80 - - 108, 109.--Fenced Seat for Canopy 81 - - 110.--Fixing Rope to Eyelet 81 - - 111, 112.--Aviary 84, 85 - - 113, 114.--Joint of Rails and Uprights for Aviary 85 - - 115.--Sectional Plan of Aviary 86 - - 116.--Cross Section of Aviary 87 - - 117.--Half Under View of Bottom of Aviary 88 - - 118.--Door Wires for Aviary 88 - - 119.--Part Longitudinal Section of Aviary 89 - - 120.--Half Plan of Aviary Roof 90 - - 121, 122.--Rustic Foot-bridge 92, 93 - - 123.--Girders for Foot-bridge 93 - - 124, 125.--Joint of Post and Girder 93 - - 126.--Middle Rail and Post of Foot-bridge 94 - - 127, 128.--Joint of Strut to Post of Foot-bridge 94 - - 129.--Twig Hollowed to Fit Rail 94 - - 130.--Elevated Bridge 95 - - 131.--Girder and Post bolted to Sleeper 96 - - 132.--Elevated Foot-bridge at Lower Step (Fig. 130) 96 - - 133, 134.--Verandah 99, 101 - - 135.--Bottom of Post for Glazed Verandah 103 - - 136.--Top of Post for Glazed Verandah 103 - - 137, 138.--Rustic Tool House 106, 107 - - 139.--Common Method of Using Slabs 108 - - 140.--Ground Plan of Rustic Tool House 109 - - 141.--Cap of Tool House Pilaster 111 - - 142.--Garden Snuggery 112 - - 143.--Ground Framework of Garden Snuggery 113 - - 144.--Back Framework for Garden Snuggery 113 - - 145.--Snuggery Porch 114 - - 146.--Window-board 115 - - 147, 148.--Sections of Snuggery Walls 117 - - 149-151.--Garden Retreat 118-121 - - 152.--Seat of Garden Retreat 122 - - 153.--Joint of Garden Retreat at C (Fig. 151) 123 - - 154.--Detail of Front Joints (see C, Fig. 151) 124 - - 155.--Alternative Method of Joining Rails to Posts 124 - - 156.--Section of Middle Rail at A (Fig. 152) 125 - - 157.--Detail of Middle Rail at B (Fig. 152) 125 - - 158-161.--Lean-to Summer House 126-131 - - 162-164.--Shelter for Tennis Lawn 133, 134 - - 165.--Connecting Plates to Corner Post 135 - - 166.--Fixing Sleeper to Posts 135 - - 167.--Section of Flooring 135 - - 168.--Finial 135 - - 169.--Garden Shelter at Front Eaves 135 - - 170.--Section of Seat 135 - - 171.--Strapping Cushion to Seat 137 - - 172-174.--Octagonal Summer House 137, 139 - - 175.--Collar Posts and Ends of Wall Plates 141 - - 176.--Timbers over Entrance of Octagonal Summer House 141 - - 177.--Window Side of Octagonal Summer House 143 - - 178, 179.--Table for Octagonal Summer House 145 - - 180.--Seat Side of Octagonal Summer House 147 - - 181.--Mosaic Seats 149 - - 182-184.--Octagonal Summer House with Three Gables 151-153 - - 185, 186.--Roof for Octagonal Summer House 153 - - 187.--Securing Glass to Rustic Casement 154 - - 188, 189.--Door for Octagonal Summer House 155 - - 190.--Part Plan of Octagonal Summer House 156 - - 191.--Horizontal Section through Door Posts 156 - - 192.--Part Section of Side Panel 157 - - 193.--Fixing Plate to Posts 157 - - 194.--Finial 157 - - - - -RUSTIC CARPENTRY. - - - - -CHAPTER I. - -LIGHT RUSTIC WORK. - - -Rustic carpentry does not demand great skill in woodworking, but it does -require a large amount of artistic perception. The tools needed are but -few, and the materials employed are comparatively cheap, although in -many districts they are becoming dearer every year. - -It may be said that any articles made from the now popular bamboo may be -made quite as effectively in light rustic work. - -For light rustic work, sticks of hazel, cherry, yew, blackthorn, birch, -larch, fir, and the prunings of many varieties of shrubs may be used; -but it is necessary that the material should be cut at the proper -season, and thoroughly dried before being worked up. The sticks should -be cut in mid-winter, as at that time the sap is at rest; if cut in the -summer time the bark will peel off. If peeled sticks are required, they -should be cut in the spring, when the sap is rising, as at that time the -rind will come off easily. In some districts the copses are cleared of -undergrowth periodically, and the sticks (generally hazel) sold to -hurdle and spar makers. A selection of these sticks would be very -suitable for the purpose here described. - -The sticks should be stacked in an open shed in an upright position if -possible, and in such a manner that the air can freely circulate around -them. When they are required for fishing rods or walking sticks they are -hung up to season--this keeps them straighter; but the hanging of them -up is not necessary for the work about to be dealt with. When the sticks -have been put away for from six to twelve months, according to size, -they will be ready for use, after being rubbed with a cloth or brushed -to clean off the dust and bring up the colour of the bark. Fir cones may -often be worked into a design, and bits of rough bark and the warts and -burrs found on old elm trees may be collected by the rustic worker and -put by for future use. - -[Illustration: Fig. 1.--Photograph Frame and Wall Bracket Combined.] - -One method of treatment for designs in light rustic work is to split the -sticks and use them to overlay the work with a Swiss pattern, as shown -by Fig. 1; another method is to work the sticks up after the manner that -canes are used in bamboo furniture (see Figs. 3 and 42, pp. 12 and 36). - -[Illustration: Fig. 2.--Section of Bracket, showing Fixing of Glass.] - -Fig. 1 represents a wall bracket with a photograph or mirror in the -frame. To make this, the piece forming the back is first cut out of -3/8-in. deal. The shelf, of 3/4-in. deal, is then nailed to the bottom -edge. Some straight hazel, fir, or other sticks are next selected and -split; these are nailed round the edges of the back, and round the -opening at the centre. The pieces round the opening overlap the edges -about 1/4 in., to form a rebate for the glass. The bare spaces at the -sides and top may be covered in the following manner: Take a piece of -brown elm bark and run a saw into it. Catch the sawdust, and, after -warming the wood, cover it with thin glue. - -[Illustration: Fig. 3.--Small Easel in Rustic Work.] - -Sprinkle the brown sawdust on the glued surface, and sufficient will -adhere to cover the deal and give the frame a rustic appearance. -Cork-dust or filings may be used instead of sawdust. Bunches of fir or -larch cones are nailed to the corners, as illustrated; these should be -pared at the back with knife or chisel to a flat surface. The outer edge -of the shelf is finished with an edging of short lengths of split stick -nailed on. The general construction of the bracket, and the method of -fixing the glass, will be clear from Fig. 2, which is a section through -the centre. - -[Illustration: Fig. 4.--Method of Attaching Support to Easel.] - -A small easel for photographs, or, if constructed larger, for a -fire-screen, is shown by Fig. 3. It is made entirely of round sticks. -Fig. 4 illustrates the method of attaching the back support--namely, by -means of a couple of staples, which may be made out of a hairpin. In -jointing round sticks together, the joints may be mitred by notching a -=V=-shaped piece out of one stick and cutting the other to fit (Fig. 5); -or a mortise and tenon, as represented by Fig. 6, may be used. - -[Illustration: Fig. 5--Mitred Joint.] - -In making the easel (Fig. 3), the top and bottom bars are mitred to the -sides, and the central upright to the top and bottom bars. The joints -are secured by either brads or panel pins. Care must be taken to bore -for the nails with a bradawl, as nothing looks worse than splits in the -work. The upright piece in the centre of the top bar may be secured by -driving a long panel pin into the lower upright through the top bar, -filing the head to a point to form a dowel, and driving the top piece on -with a hammer. - -[Illustration: Fig. 6.--Mortise and Tenon Joint.] - -[Illustration: Fig. 7.--Rustic Flower Holder for Table Decoration.] - -Where a small stick is joined to a larger one, as in the case of the -filling-in pieces, a flat may be made with a knife or chisel on the -larger stick, and the smaller one cut to fit and nailed on. In making a -small easel, only a single stick attached to the centre upright will be -required to form a back support, but for a larger one it will be -preferable to frame it as shown by Fig. 3. - -[Illustration: Fig. 8.--Rustic Flower Holder Complete, with Cocoanut -Vase in Position.] - -The finished articles may be either stained and varnished or left plain. -Cherry sticks look well if the bark is left the natural colour, and the -ends, where exposed, cleaned off and varnished without being stained. -Some sticks improve in colour if rubbed over with a rag moistened with -linseed oil. - -If a stain is required, one that is sold in bottles would be suitable, -but a little vandyke brown, ground in water, and applied with a sponge, -answers the purpose. Sometimes, as in the case of the table top (see -Fig. 42, p. 36), it is a good plan to stain the wood before nailing on -the pattern work, or there will be danger, if the sticks are dark in -colour, of the lighter wood showing through. - -If the rustic work is intended to be placed out of doors, it should be -given two or three coats of hard outside varnish. - -The rustic flower-holder for table decoration, shown by Fig. 7, consists -simply of a gipsy tripod formed with six rustic sticks, put together in -the form shown, and tied with a length of bass. There is no attempt made -at finish, but the sticks must be firmly tied together at the joints, -and the ends of the bass can be left, either hanging loose or tied in a -bow. The holder for the flowers is a cocoanut shell, which has been sawn -in two, so as to leave one part a sort of cup or egg shape; three holes -are bored with a bradawl at equal distances round the edge, and it is -suspended from the tripod with three more pieces of the bass, which -completes the arrangement. Of course, any small receptacle can be used -in place of the cocoanut shell, but that, perhaps, carries out the -rustic appearance the best, and is very easily obtained. Fig. 8 is an -attempt to show the tripod when decorated. - -The rustic hall-stand shown by Figs. 9 to 11 was made actually from -branches and twigs of an old apple tree. The uprights and principal -cross-pieces are 7/8 in. thick, and the criss-cross pieces are 1/2 in. -thick. The bottom is made of four pieces 1-1/2 in. thick. The longer -ones measure 1 ft. 8 in., and the shorter ones 1 ft. 2 in.; they are -nailed together in such a manner that the ends at the two front corners -each cross and project 2-1/2 in. The front uprights are 2 ft. high, the -back ones 2 ft. 2 in.; the longer cross-pieces are 1 ft. 8 in., the -shorter 11 in. The ends intersect and project 3 in. at each of the front -corners; only the longest piece projects 3 in. at the back corners, the -shorter pieces being cut off flush with the frame to allow of the stand -fitting close to a wall. - -[Illustration: Figs. 9 and 10.--Front and Side Elevations of Rustic Hall -Stand.] - -[Illustration: Fig. 11.--Plan of Rustic Hall Stand, showing Umbrella -Pan.] - -These cross-pieces are nailed to the uprights to allow the top ends of -the latter to project 2 in. above them, this bringing the measurement of -the oblong inner framework to 1 ft. 10 in. by 1 ft. 2 in. The thin -pieces are nailed on as shown in Fig. 9, being interlaced as much as -possible. The back of the stand is treated in a similar manner. The -whole of the wood is used as rough as possible, the bark being retained, -with the knots, etc.; the ends are, however, pared off smooth with a -chisel. Two coats of varnish finish the stand, save for the addition of -a receptacle to catch the drainings from umbrellas, and for this the -stand illustrated has a painted baking-tin A (Fig. 11). - -[Illustration: Figs. 12 and 13.--Elevation and Plan of Plant Stool.] - -The rustic stool (Figs. 12 and 13) is intended to be made in pairs, and -placed one on each side of the umbrella-stand above described, each -supporting a plant, such as a fern or palm. The top of each stool is cut -from 9 in. square 1-in. wood (wood from an old box answers well), and is -sawn into an octagonal shape. A double row of pieces of apple, maple, or -some other wood with good bark, is nailed around the edges, thicker -pieces being used at the bottom than at the top to give a graduated -appearance. The entire top is then covered with straight pieces of -stick, selected for the beauty of their bark. All pieces are nailed on -with cut brads. The four legs are formed of 1-in. apple-wood 9 in. long. -They are bevelled at the top to fit a square block of wood, 2 in. thick -and 3 in. long, which is firmly secured to the top by two screws. This -piece of wood should be fastened to the top before the rustic rods are -placed in position. Two 2-1/2-in. wire nails through each of the legs -hold them quite securely to the central block. Portions of rustic wood, -from 1/4 in. to 3/8 in. in diameter, are then nailed across the legs, as -shown in Fig. 12, the ends being allowed to cross each other and project -about 1 in. all ways. The whole stool, when finished, stands 10-1/2 in. -high, and is so strong that it will support a heavy man with safety. The -block of wood to which the legs are attached should be stained to match -the rustic wood; permanganate of potash solution will effect this. -Finally, two coats of clear varnish give a good finish to the work. - -[Illustration: Fig. 14.--Window Box.] - -Window boxes are illustrated by Figs. 14 to 16. That shown by Fig. 14 is -made from a raisin box obtained from a grocer. Such boxes are not -costly, and to buy and knock these up for rough uses is often more -economical than buying new material. - -[Illustration: Fig. 15.--More Elaborate Window Box.] - -[Illustration: Fig. 16.--Cross Section of Window Box in Position.] - -Take care that the boards are stout enough to hold the brads firmly. The -box measures about 21 in. by 7 in. by 7 in., and is wholly covered with -mosaic of dark and light strips in panels. Strips are also nailed on the -upper edges. - -The more elaborate window box (Figs. 15 and 16) can be made of a size to -fit the window for which it is intended. A few holes should be bored in -the bottom for drainage, and the front board is cut to the shape shown -and the rustic ornament is nailed to the box and forms no part of the -construction. In Fig. 16 wedge pieces are shown fitted to the stone sill -to bring the box level; it is kept in position by two metal angle-pieces -screwed both to the wood sill and to the back of the box. - - - - -CHAPTER II. - -FLOWER STANDS, VASES, ETC. - - -The rustic-work flower stand (Fig. 17) may be 3 ft. high by 3 ft. 6 in. -long by 9 in. wide. For the legs, select four curved saplings 3 ft. 3 -in. long by 2-1/2 in. in diameter; and as some difficulty may be -experienced in obtaining them with the natural curves sufficiently -alike, artificial methods of bending must be resorted to. Therefore get -the saplings from 2 ft. to 3 ft. longer than the finished length, and -bend them to shape by means of the Spanish windlass as shown in Fig. 18. -Flexible six-strand fixing wire or stout hemp cord can be used; or a -straining screw and link, as employed for tightening fencing wire, will -answer equally well; keep the tension on till the wood is curved -permanently, the time varying with the nature and condition of the wood, -and the strain being applied gradually at intervals. The rails are -tenoned to fit mortises in the legs, and battens are nailed to the lower -long rails, to support the flower pots (see Fig. 19). The rustic work is -then fixed diagonally to the rails. The ends that abut against the legs -and centre-piece are pared away so as to make a neat joint, and angle -boards are fitted to the under side of the lower rails to support the -rustic work where it curves downwards. - -[Illustration: Fig. 17.--Flower-pot Stand.] - -The vase shown by Fig. 20 is hexagonal in shape, with vandyked sides -fixed to a base supported upon tripod legs, and stands about 3 ft. 3 in. -high. Elm boards are suitable for the sides and bottom; they are 1 ft. 3 -in. high by 9 in. wide at the top end, and 6-1/2 in. wide at the bottom -by 1 in. thick. Shoot the edges of the boards to a bevel of 60 deg., and fix -them with nails driven as shown at Fig. 21. When the six sides are -completed, prepare the hexagon baseboard to suit. Bore holes in it for -drainage, and also bore three equidistant holes, 1-1/4 in. in diameter, -at an angle of about 60 deg., for the tenons of the legs to enter (see Fig. -22). Next screw the base to the sides, and fix on the barked rustic -work. The twigs for this should be seasoned at least one year before -using. They are sawn in halves, straight twigs being selected for the -purpose. If necessary, shoot the edges slightly, so as to obtain a -closer fit when fixing them in parallel. Begin by attaching the lower -border to the hexagonal base, then the upright pieces over the angles, -hollowed as shown at Fig. 23; next fix the top sloping pieces, and -finally the horizontal twigs. The legs are nailed at the base of the -vase (see Fig. 22); and at the centre, where they cross, they are -further secured with twigs, which do the duty of rungs, as shown in Fig. -20. - -[Illustration: Fig. 18.--Method of Bending Saplings.] - -[Illustration: Fig. 19.--Fixing Rails, etc., to Posts.] - -[Illustration: Fig. 20.--Vase on Tripod Stand.] - -[Illustration: Fig. 21.--Joint of Hexagon Sides of Vase.] - -[Illustration: Fig. 22.--Securing Sides and Legs of Vase to Base.] - -[Illustration: Fig. 23.--Section of Twigs at Angles of Vase.] - -[Illustration: Figs. 24 and 25.--Side and End Elevations of Flower-pot -Stand.] - -[Illustration: Fig. 26.--Joining Rails of Flower-pot Stand to Uprights.] - -[Illustration: Fig. 27.--Method of Supporting End Shelves of Flower-pot -Stand at A and B (Fig. 24).] - -[Illustration: Fig. 28.--Fixing Centre Shelves of Flower-pot Stand.] - -The flower stand shown in front and end view by Figs. 24 and 25 has -accommodation for sixteen pots. The two uprights are 2 ft. 8 in. high by -about 2-1/2 in. in diameter. The three rails are 2 ft. 9 in. long, and -are tenoned to the posts as shown by Fig. 26; the posts are also tenoned -and nailed to the sills (bottom rails), and strutted, as shown in Fig. -25. The method of fixing the shelves A and B (Fig. 24) is shown in Fig. -27, which is an under-side view; struts are also fitted, as shown in -Fig. 25. The method of fixing the centre shelves is indicated at Fig. -28. The shelf, and also the struts C, D, E, and E^1 (Figs. 24 and 25), -are fixed to the centre rail; then the top diagonal braces are nailed to -both the shelf and the top rail, thus keeping the whole secure. The -remainder of the work calls for no special instructions. Split twigs are -used for the fencing around the shelves. - -[Illustration: Fig. 29.--Large Square Vase.] - -[Illustration: Fig. 30.--Large Hexagonal Vase.] - -Fig. 29 shows a square vase constructed from elm boards 1-1/4 in. thick. -A fair size for the sides will be 1 ft. 8 in. at the top and 1 ft. 5 -in. at the base by 2 ft. high, including the 2-1/2-in. plinth. The split -twigs forming the decoration are 1-1/2 in. wide, and spaced about 2 in. -apart edge to edge. - -[Illustration: Fig. 31.--Large Plant Vase with Claw Foot.] - -The vase shown by Fig. 30 is hexagonal in shape, the sides being 1 ft. 8 -in. high by 1 ft. 2 in. wide at the top edge, and 1 ft. 0-1/2 in. at the -base. The sides and bottom of both vases are connected as in Figs. 21 -and 22. Five 1-in. holes are bored for drainage. The short feet having -been secured with screws driven from the inside, the split rustic work -is bradded on in the same order as that described for Fig. 20. - -The stands and vases should be given two coats of oil varnish, allowing -the first coat to dry before applying the second. - -[Illustration: Fig. 32.--Foot of Rustic Table.] - -A big plant vase made from half a paraffin cask is illustrated by Fig. -31. An ordinary 40-gal. cask stands, roughly, some 3 ft. high, has a -diameter of some 2 ft., and is made of good stout oak. Sawn through the -middle, the paraffin barrel makes two admirable tubs. One such half is -shown in Fig. 31. This it is proposed to render suitable for some large -bushy plant, so it will have to be mounted on legs. The legs shown are -simply so many pieces cut from rough branches. From a heap of stuff one -can generally choose pieces sufficiently adapted to the purpose, though -their exact contours will, of course, vary. Oak branches, technically -known as "bangles," from which the bark has been taken to make tan, will -do well; or if the bark is liked, apple-tree or elm boughs will be -suitable. That these sticks should be rough and gnarled and knotted -adds to their effect. As the tub will be only partly covered with -rustic mosaic work, it will be well before nailing anything upon it to -paint it. A good dark brown or chocolate will go well with the natural -bark. The rustic pieces will have to be cut through with the saw, the -lengths being too great to be safely split with the hatchet--that is, -with the exception of those round the lip, which are of thicker rod than -the zig-zags; say, 1-1/2 in. as compared with 1 in. In the zig-zags the -light central strip is supposed to be of peeled withy, the darker ones -on each side having the bark on, and being probably of hazel. Generally -speaking, wrought brads are to be recommended for fixing rustic mosaic, -but where, as in the present case, the strips have to be bent over a -curved surface, small wire nails will be found more secure. Groups of -fir cones, as shown, will prettily ornament the triangular spaces. - -A style of foot suitable for a one-leg flower stand or table is -illustrated in plan and part section by Fig. 32. - -[Illustration: Fig. 33.--Garden Plant Tub.] - -Fig. 33 shows the other half of the cask arranged for, say, a dwarf -shrub, an orange-tree, or the like. In small town or suburban premises, -such tubs are specially useful where there is a back court into which -anything green cannot otherwise be introduced. In this, it will be seen -that by way of variety the tops of the staves have been sawn to a -zig-zag line, which is followed a little below by a moulding of split -rods. Alternative styles of moulding are shown by Figs. 34 and 35. -Half-way between this and the bottom a band of mosaic is arranged in -light and dark strips of withy and hazel. The bits filling the -diamond-shaped centres of this pattern are cut from thicker stuff than -the rest, so that they may project as bosses beyond the general level. -Over the unavoidable iron hoop at bottom, from which place short strips -would, if nailed, be often detached, a rough "dry-cask" wooden hoop has -been fixed. At the sides two pieces of rough branch stuff have been -placed to serve as handles, and to resist strain these should be secured -from within by strong screws. - -[Illustration: Figs. 34 and 35.--Alternative Mouldings.] - -[Illustration: Fig. 36.--Ornamental Plant Vase.] - -The vase shown by Fig. 36 is intended for a somewhat low-growing -flowering plant--say, a large bushy geranium. In its original character -it is an American lard pail. As in the last tub, the staves have been -sawn to a more ornamental outline, and they have also been perforated. -The ornamental strips of split rod have been arranged in straight -vertical lines, to avoid the difficulty of bending and keeping them in -place if bent round so small a vessel. The bottom of the pail is screwed -down to an octagonal slab of wood, to the under side of which four short -bits of rough bough are nailed as feet. As neither this nor the last tub -is wholly covered with mosaic, they should, of course, first be painted. -The slab at bottom will look very well rough, as shown, but if painted -it will be improved by strips of split rod nailed round its edges. - -[Illustration: Fig. 37.--Rectangular Garden Plant Stand.] - -A garden plant stand, made from a soap box and mounted on legs is shown -by Fig. 37. The easiest way to fix one of these legs on is to saw the -piece of stuff in half to a distance from the top equal to the depth of -the box, and then to cross-cut and remove one half. The corner of the -box will be brought to the middle of the cross-cut, and the leg nailed -on to the side of the box. The piece which has been sawn off will then -be cut through (quartered), and the proper quarter replaced and nailed -to the end of the box. Frets, such as those shown in these two examples, -are patterns of a kind well adapted to be worked out in rustic mosaic. - -[Illustration: Figs. 38 to 40.--Elevation, Section, and Horizontal -Section of Rustic Pedestal.] - -A pedestal for a sundial or flower vase is shown by Figs. 38 to 40. It -is a box of 1-in. elm boards, the top being a 2-in. thick slab. -Suitable dimensions are 3 ft. 6 in. high, and 1 ft. square, the top -being 16 in. square. - -[Illustration: Fig. 41.--Rustic Flower-pot Stand in Imitation of -Bamboo.] - -A design for a rustic flower-pot stand in imitation of bamboo is -represented by Fig. 41. The height should be about 2 ft. 6 in. to the -top, and the length from 3 ft. to 3 ft. 6 in. The box at the top may be -about 9 in. wide and 8 in. deep. Care must be taken when putting the -work together to get the frames true and square. Slovenliness in -construction will completely spoil the appearance of the finished -article. The box at the top is made to fit inside, and should be lined -with a zinc tray. The outside may be covered with glue and brown -sawdust. - - - - -CHAPTER III. - -TABLES. - - -[Illustration: Fig. 42.--Square Table.] - -A small rustic table which may, if desired, be used as a flower-pot -stand, is illustrated by Fig. 42. The top may be made of 3/4-in. stuff, -and should have two ledges nailed underneath to prevent twisting. The -table may be 1 ft. 10 in. high, with the top 15 in. square, or, if a -larger size is required, 2 ft. 1 in. high, with the top 18 in. square. -The design is not suitable for tables of a larger size. - -[Illustration: Fig. 43.--Hexagonal Table.] - -The legs may be secured to the top by boring holes in the ledges and -driving them in. The cross bars must be firmly secured to the legs, and, -for the joints, the mortise and tenon shown at Fig. 6 (see p. 14) would -be suitable. If the sticks used to form the legs are rather small, it -will be better if the cross bars are kept a little higher on two of the -sides, so that the mortises do not meet each other. - -The top is covered with a Swiss overlay pattern, made of split sticks. -The design may be set out by drawing lines from corner to corner on the -top, and across the top in the centre of each side. A smaller square is -then drawn in the centre of the top, with diagonals at right angles to -the sides of the top. Lines drawn from the corners of the small square -to the corners of the top will form a four-pointed star. The pattern -should be clearly outlined with a pencil. In nailing on the sticks, -those round the outer edge of the top should be put on first and mitred -at the corners. Next the outside sticks of the small square should be -nailed on, then the eight pieces from the corners of the small square to -the corners of the top. - -[Illustration: Fig. 44.--Part Vertical Section of Top of Hexagonal -Table.] - -In working up patterns of the above description, always nail on the -sticks that follow the outline of the design first. The filling-in -pieces may be put on afterwards. Variety may be given to the patterns by -using sticks of different colours; for instance, the design may be -outlined in hazel or blackthorn, and filled in with hawthorn or peeled -willow. The edges of the table top are concealed by nailing on an edging -of short sticks or cones. - -[Illustration: Fig. 45.--Half Plans of Top of Hexagonal Table.] - -Fig. 43 shows a small hexagon-top table for use in a summer-house or on -the lawn. The following dimensions are suitable: Height 2 ft. 6 in., and -diameter of circle for the hexagon top 2 ft. 9 in. The top is made from -two or three 7/8-in. boards cramped together to the required width and -fixed underneath with two battens 3-1/2 in. wide by 1 in. thick. The -four legs are dowelled and nailed to these battens and further stiffened -by the rungs and the diagonal braces which are nailed to the legs. A -corona is fixed around the edges of the table top, and the method of -securing the board is shown in Fig. 44. In Fig. 45 the half plans show -two ways of ornamenting the top. The twigs should be sawn so that in -section they are less than a semicircle, and it will be an advantage to -shoot their edges slightly, as then they will fit closer and cover the -rough boards that form the table top. - - - - -CHAPTER IV. - -CHAIRS AND SEATS. - - -[Illustration: Fig. 46.--Armchair.] - -For the armchair (Fig. 46) select four slightly curved legs about 3 in. -in diameter; the front pair are 2 ft. high and the back pair are 2 ft. 9 -in. high. The front seat rail is 1 ft. 2 in. long by 2-1/2 in. in -diameter, the back rail is 1 ft. long, and the side rails are 1 ft. 3 -in. long, their ends being trimmed to fit the legs, and fixed with -inserted ash or elm dowels 7/8 in. in diameter; see Fig. 47. The height -from the ground line to the seat top is 1 ft. 4-1/2 in. The battens -forming the seat rest on the side rails, and cleats are fixed to the -inner sides of the four legs (see Fig. 48) to support the extreme back -and front battens. The arms and back are made in three parts, the -scarfed joints coming immediately over the back legs. The trellis work -is then added, and finally the struts and dentils are fixed around the -seat. The chair can be made from unbarked wood without any dressing, or -the bark may be removed and the wood, when dry, can be finished in stain -and outside varnish. - -[Illustration: Fig. 47.--Fixing Seat Rails to Leg of Armchair.] - -[Illustration: Fig. 48.--Plan of Armchair Seat Frame.] - -The garden-seats about to be described will look very effective if made -of oak that has had the bark removed and the small twigs trimmed off -clean; they should be finished in stain and varnish. In construction -they are fairly simple. - - -[Illustration: Fig. 49.--General View of Garden Seat.] - -For making the seat shown by Fig. 49, first select the three back posts, -with their natural curves as much alike as possible. In diameter they -should be from 2-1/2 in. to 3 in. Select also two arm-posts and one -centre leg for the front. Next cut two seat rails for the back and one -rail for the front, 5 ft. or 6 ft. long as desired, and cut two side -rails (see Fig. 50) and one centre rail, each 1 ft. 7 in. long. Work the -ends of the rails to the shape of the posts as shown by Figs. 51 and 52, -so that they make a fairly good joint, and bore the posts and rails with -a 7/8-in. bit 1-1/4 in. deep, to receive dowels made of ash or elm. -These are preferable to tenons formed on the rails themselves. Now try -the whole together temporarily, and make good any defects. - -[Illustration: Fig. 50.--End Elevation of Garden Seat.] - -[Illustration: Fig. 51.--Joints of Rails and Posts for Garden Seat.] - -Then take the pieces apart, and coat the joints with a thick priming -consisting of two parts of white-lead (ground in oil) and one part of -red-lead thinned with boiled linseed oil. Drive the joints home and fix -them with nails or screws and wipe off the surplus paint. - -[Illustration: Fig. 52.--Arm-rest for Garden Seat.] - -[Illustration: Fig. 53.--Part Plan of Seat.] - -[Illustration: Fig. 54.--Another Garden Seat.] - -The top back rail and the arm-rest can next be fitted. The ends of the -back rail are worked bird's mouth, to fit the posts. The arm-rests are -treated in the same way at the back; they fit in vees cut in the front -posts, and are fixed with nails. - -[Illustration: Fig. 56.--Vertical Section, showing Front Rail, Cross -Rail, and Battens.] - -[Illustration: Fig. 55.--Cross Section of Garden Seat.] - -Measure off and mark equal spaces for the struts, the ends of which are -trimmed to fit the rails and posts. Secure them with two nails at each -end. The seat (Fig. 53) is made up of split saplings laid as shown, with -the ends pared to fit the rails and bradded on. Finally, fit the struts -between the seat rails and the lower part of the posts. - -The framework for the chair shown by Figs. 54 and 55 is on the same -principle as that already described. The segmental battens forming the -seat run longitudinally, and their ends are shaped to fit the outer -rails. The battens rest on a flat worked on the centre cross rail (see -Figs. 55, 56, and 57). Fig. 56 also gives a part cross section near the -centre leg, and shows the front rail placed out of centre and the cross -rail resting on the leg, to which it is firmly nailed. When the seat is -more than 5 ft. in length the battens require intermediate supports, -which can be cut from split saplings. The panelling on the back is fixed -to the top and bottom rails and supported in the centre by a wide -longitudinal rail and two vertical rails at the mitres of the diamond -centres. These are fitted in and secured, and then the vertical split -twigs are fixed partly on them and also on the rails. Finally, struts -are fixed to the seat rails and legs and covered with short twigs, with -their lower ends running in a regular curve. - -[Illustration: Fig. 57.--Part Plan of Seat.] - -A rustic garden seat with canopy is illustrated by Fig. 58. Where shade -is required, the back and canopy offer facilities for securing it, as -they can be covered with climbers. Fig. 58 is not drawn to scale, but -the explanatory diagrams (Figs. 59 to 64) are 3/4 in. to the foot. - -[Illustration: Fig. 58.--Garden Seat with Canopy.] - -The upright posts and all the more important pieces will best be formed -of somewhat small larch stuff; the smaller straight sticks may be hazel, -birch, or withy. The last named, stripped of its bark, and used in some -parts only, will form a pretty contrast with the darker rods. In filling -spaces in back and canopy, a few pieces of crooked stuff are used; these -will probably be of apple-tree. - - -[Illustration: Fig. 59.--Front Elevation of Garden Seat.] - -[Illustration: Fig. 60.--End Elevation of Garden Seat.] - -[Illustration: Fig. 61.--Plan of Canopy for Garden Seat.] - -[Illustration: Figs. 62 and 63.--Back and Side Views of Canopy Panels.] - -[Illustration: Fig. 64.--Plan of Seat.] - -The two posts A, on which almost the entire weight is sustained, should -be let into the ground not less than 2 ft. They rise 5 ft. above the -ground-line. They are set at a distance, measuring from centre to -centre, of 4 ft. apart. The smaller posts (marked B), which support the -seat, stand 17 in. in advance of those last named, and should be let -into the earth 1 ft. The broad seat thus given is essential to comfort -when the back of the chair is upright, as it must be in this instance. - -Two principal cross-pieces are nailed against the main posts. The lower -one, of halved stuff, is 15 in. from the ground, and carries the back of -the seat. The other is close to the top of the posts, and carries the -back of the canopy. The canopy is chiefly supported on the three -wall-plates, C (Fig. 59), which rest at one end on the heads of the -posts, and towards the other on the struts, D (Fig. 60). Fig. 61 shows -in plan the arrangement of the principal pieces forming the canopy: E E -are the rafters of the gables, the lower ends of which rest on the -wall-plates, and the upper against the pinnacle, F (Fig. 61). The back -rafters are marked G G, and these rest their lower ends on the -cross-piece and their upper against the pinnacle. Fig. 62 shows the -filling-in of the two back panels of canopy; Fig. 63 that of the four -side panels. - -The filling-in of the back of the seat is clearly shown in Fig. 59. - -In Fig. 64 the seat proper appears in plan. Its front and ends are of -halved stuff, nailed to the posts. The spars forming the seat are placed -with spaces between them, that they may not hold moisture; for the same -reason, it is advised that they should be of peeled withy. - - - - -CHAPTER V. - -GATES AND FENCES. - - -[Illustration: Figs. 65 and 66.--Front View and Plan of Solid Garden -Gate.] - -In many gardens there is a space devoted to the tool-house, potting -shed, refuse head, etc. Shrubberies of course hide the unsightly -appearance of this particular spot to a certain extent, but it may be -found desirable to close the entrance to this part of the garden from -the remainder, and the gate illustrated in front elevation by Fig. 65 -is, from its semi-rustic nature, particularly suitable. Fig. 66 shows a -plan and Fig. 67 is a part back view. The gate is quite simple in -construction, and should be of sufficient height to obstruct the view -from each side. - -[Illustration: Fig. 67.--Part Back View of Frame for Solid Garden Gate.] - -Local circumstances will of course determine the width of the gate, but -the one illustrated by Fig. 65 is constructed on a framework 6 ft. -square, the total height being 8 ft. The timber for the frame need not -be planed. - -[Illustration: Figs. 68 to 70.--Joints in Frame of Solid Garden Gate.] - -[Illustration: Figs. 71 and 72.--Fixing Ends of Twigs.] - -[Illustration: Fig 73.--Detail of Closing Stile.] - -Cut the closing and hingeing stiles 6 ft. long out of stuff 6 in. wide -by 2-1/2 in. thick. The three rails are of the same dimensions, and can -be halved and dovetailed to the stiles or, better, mortised, tenoned, -and wedged and braced, as shown in Figs. 68, 69, and 70. Separate pieces -of stuff are fixed up the centre to form a muntin for supporting the -rustic work; the necessity is obvious from Fig. 66, where it will be -noticed the twigs are outlined on the frame. Each twig has a bearing on -the frame, and can thus be nailed individually. - -[Illustration: Figs. 74 and 75.--Designs for Rustic Gates.] - -Two stout gate hinges and hooks are required, and they can be bolted on -with 7/16-in. Whitworth bolts and nuts, or secured from the back with -square-headed coach screws. Now commence fixing on the unbarked twigs; -they should be as straight as possible and used in their natural shape, -without being split in halves. - -The terminations of the joints for circular stuff are slightly different -from the ends of the half-round stuff; see Figs. 71 and 72. Start by -fixing the outside square, then the two inner squares, and finally the -diagonal filling. - -The posts are 9 in. or 10 in. in diameter by 9 ft. long, 3 ft. being -underground. Cut three mortises in the posts to receive the rails for -the side fencing. These rails are nailed flush to the secondary posts, -nails also being driven through each mortise in the gate posts. Next -dig the holes for the posts, these being kept at correct distances apart -by nailing battens to the top and at the ground line while ramming in -the posts. Two parts of old brickwork and one part of Portland cement -will make a good concrete for the posts. - -A week or more should elapse before the gate is hung to the posts. This -may then be propped up fair between the two posts, and the positions -should be marked for the staple of the latch, and hooks for the hinges. -A rebate is formed for the gate on the posts by nailing on split -sapling; see Figs. 67 and 73. Finally, a short post can be driven in the -ground and fitted with a hook for retaining the gate when open wide. - -[Illustration: Figs. 76 and 77.--Designs for Rustic Gates.] - -Suitable designs for small rustic gates are given by Figs. 74 to 77. The -wood for making gates to the two designs (Figs. 76 and 77) should have -the bark removed. The chief rails and posts are about 2 in. thick, -filled in with 1-1/2-in. or 1-in. pieces, halved and nailed together -where they cross. The joints may be hidden by bosses of planed wood (see -Fig. 77). If the gate is to be removable, fix a hook on the hanging -stile to engage with a staple in the joint, and a pin in the bottom to -turn round in a socket. The gate is then easily taken out of its -hangings. Varnish the wood on completion. - -[Illustration: Figs. 78 and 79.--Designs for Fences.] - -Rustic fences can be constructed as shown in Figs. 78 to 80. - -The garden trellis illustrated at Fig. 81 will form an attractive -addition to the grounds of a suburban or country villa residence. In the -case of new houses, the existence of such a trellis, with creepers ready -planted, will often prove a deciding factor in effecting a quick sale or -letting. The structure extends to a length of about 20 ft., but the -dimensions may readily be altered to suit requirements. The material may -be fir or other straight unbarked saplings and twigs. The posts are 12 -ft. long; the four for the arch being 4 in. in diameter, and the others -3 in. or 3-1/2 in. The rails are 2-1/2 in. in diameter, and the twigs -for the trellis, etc., 1-3/4 in. or 2 in. The bay seat with canopy is 6 -ft. long by 1 ft. 4 in. wide. - -[Illustration: Fig. 80.--Design for Fence.] - -The position of the seats and posts and of the shores A, B, and C is -clearly shown in the plan (Fig. 82). The arrangement of the double posts -adds materially to the stiffness of the framework, making long shores -unnecessary. The shores are placed 3 ft. 6 in. above the ground line, -and are inclined at an angle of 50 deg.. The posts are sunk into the ground -a distance of 3 ft., and well rammed in; rubble stones being mixed with -the earth, as shown in the vertical section (Fig. 83). - -[Illustration: Figs. 81 and 82.--General View and Ground Plan of Rustic -Trellis with Seats and Gate.] - -[Illustration: Fig. 83.--Vertical Section of Trellis.] - -[Illustration: Fig. 84.--Section through End Post and Trellis.] - -[Illustration: Fig. 85.--Detail of Back of Seat for Trellis.] - -[Illustration: Fig. 86.--Alternative Design for Gate.] - -The arch may with advantage be entirely fitted together before being put -in position, as a better job can thus be made of the joints of the short -rails and struts. The joints in the remainder of the work, with the -exception of the gate, are of the simplest description. The rail ends -are bevelled and notched to the posts, and secured with nails as shown -in the sectional view of the trellis at Fig. 84. - -Having erected the framework in position, next sink and well ram the -shores deep into the ground, and splay and nail the top ends to the -uprights. Also fix the shorter posts for the seats, letting them into -the ground about 1 ft. 6 in. The end seat bearers are fixed to the end -posts, and the centre bearers to the front and back central posts. The -seat battens are saplings split in two, the flat portion being laid -downwards and nailed to the bearers (see Fig. 83). Fig. 85 is an -enlarged section through the seat back, showing the method of securing -the smaller twigs to the rails. The fixing of the vertical pieces in the -lower part, and the inclined lengths above, will complete this portion -of the screen. - -The gate, shown enlarged at Fig. 86, which gives an alternative design, -is 3 ft. 9 in. wide by 4 ft. 6 in. high. The stiles are 4 ft. 9 in. long -and about 2-1/2 in. in diameter, and should be as straight as possible, -with the twigs neatly trimmed on; the rails should be at least 2-1/4 in. -in diameter, trimmed to fit the stiles, and secured with inserted -hardwood dowels 1 in. in diameter, as shown at Fig. 26, p. 27. - -The diagonal struts in the top panel should be fitted and in place -before the rails and stiles are finally secured; the vertical twigs in -the lower panel should be similarly fitted and nailed before the rails -are secured to the stiles. Ordinary forged hooks and eyes are used for -hanging the gate; these are secured to the stile and post with nuts and -washers, as shown in the enlarged horizontal section (Fig. 87). - -[Illustration: Fig. 87.--Method of Hanging and Latching Gate.] - -A mortice is cut in the closing stile to receive the latch, the catch -for the latter being a simple forging (see Fig. 88) with a pointed tang -for driving into the post. - -A rustic carriage entrance is shown by Fig. 89. The intention is, of -course, that the rustic archway above the gates shall be more or less -clothed with climbing plants. It is for roses that the structure will be -best adapted, though clematis or honeysuckle will look well upon it. Ivy -would look too heavy, and, if neglected, might even prove too heavy in -other respects. Light as the arch may appear, the four posts grouped to -form the turret on either side are so tied and braced together as to be, -to all intents and purposes, a solid pillar, 30 in. square, and fully -equal to resisting any outward thrust of the rafters. In the elevation -(Fig. 89), to avoid confusion, no indication is given of the work -forming the farther side of the arch, though something of it would -necessarily be seen from the front; the two sides will be alike. Figs. -89 and 90 are drawn to a scale of 1/2 in. to the foot. - -[Illustration: Fig. 88.--Catch for Gate.] - -The posts, and at least all the more important straight pieces, should -be of larch. The wood chosen for filling-in should have picturesque -forks and contortions. Small oak bangles will, perhaps, be most -appropriate. - -In the ground plan of the left-hand turret (Fig. 90) it will be seen -that the posts used--four at each end--are some 5 in. or 6 in. in -diameter, and that the largest is selected as hanging-post for the gate. -From centre to centre they are set 2 ft. 3 in. apart. They are 13 ft. -long--that is, 10 ft. 4 in. above ground and 2 ft. 8 in. below. The -rafters of the arch spring from them 7 ft. from the ground, and at this -point each post is surrounded by a cap, formed of four pieces of -quartered stuff nailed upon it. The rafters are not mortised into the -post, but if, instead of being merely nailed, they are attached by a -bolt and nut, a stronger joint will be made. - -[Illustration: Fig 89.--Elevation of Rustic Carriage Entrance.] - -The upper rafters, back and front, are connected by five straight -cross-pieces, whose ends show in Fig. 89. The spaces between these are -filled up very much at random with crooked stuff. - -The four posts of each turret are bound together close beneath their -tops by cross-pieces nailed outside them, whilst from their tops, and -nailed down to them, slant four short rafters, which meet pyramid-wise -in the centre. The filling up of the upper parts of the turrets, as well -as of the front and back of the arch, is with a mixture of straight and -crooked stuff, the arrangement of which is clearly shown in the -elevation (Fig. 89). - -[Illustration: Fig. 90.--Plan of Left Side of Carriage Entrance.] - -The lower parts of the turrets and the gates must be constructed in such -a way as to exclude animals; the palings are so arranged as not to leave -a space between them wider than 3 in. The rails of the gates should, of -course, be mortised into the heads and hinge-trees. - - - - -CHAPTER VI. - -ROSERY WALK. - - -The rustic construction here illustrated is intended primarily as a -trellis over which to train roses, and to form a shady and fragrant -walk, and generally to contribute to the adornment of the flower garden. -It can readily be adapted so as to form a roofed-in track from a door to -the public roadway; and the means of so adapting it will be explained -later. - -The materials will be entirely rough wood in its natural bark. For the -posts fir poles of some kind should be chosen, and larch is especially -to be preferred both as regards durability and appearance. All the -smaller pieces which show as straight stuff may well be of the same kind -of wood as the posts, though hazel is best for the finer rods. It will -be seen that in the mere filling-in much crooked stuff is used, and for -this apple branches, or indeed almost anything that comes to hand, will -answer. - -The rosery walk (Fig. 91) is 4 ft. wide, and the rustic erection is -carried on two rows of pillars or collar-posts ranged at intervals of 3 -ft. These posts should be let into the ground 2 ft., and well rammed in. -They should have an average diameter of 3 in. or 3-1/2 in., except in -the case of each third one, as that which in Fig. 91 is seen standing in -the middle of the portion with the lower roof; such pillars may be -smaller as having little weight to bear, and will look better than they -would do if equal in size to the others. Resting on the line of posts -lies the wall-plate (A A, Fig. 92), the top of which is 5 ft. 6 in. from -the ground line. - -[Illustration: Fig. 91.--Elevation of Rosery Walk.] - -[Illustration: Fig. 92.--Plan of Roof of Rosery Walk.] - -From each group of four large collar-posts rise four rafters (B, B, Fig. -92), meeting at top pyramid-wise. They rise to a height from the ground -of 7 ft. 6 in., and have, therefore, to be 3 ft. 4 in. long. Half-way up -them--that is, 6 ft. 6 in. from the ground line--the purlins (C, C, Fig. -92) are nailed upon them. Figs. 91 and 92 alike show how the space -between wall-plate and purlin is filled in, and Fig. 92 shows how the -space, 7 ft. 3 in. long, stretching from one pyramidal portion to the -next, is covered with a flat roof of open rustic work lying upon the -purlins. This space, it will be observed, is chiefly filled in with -crooked stuff. - -Fig. 93 shows how the upper part of the rosery would appear at one of -its ends, and explains how the roof would be in section--the shaded -parts give the form of the roof in its lower portions; whilst if the -cross-piece, D (which is on a level with the purlins), is supposed to be -removed, there is presented with the dotted lines, B, B, a section -through the middle of one of the higher pyramidal portions. - -[Illustration: Fig. 93.--Entrance to Rosery Walk.] - -Over the middle of the entrance is a rough knot or a piece of root. - -The filling-in of the sides of the rosery is plainly shown in the -elevation, Fig. 91. For its better preservation from damp, this work is -kept 4 in. from the ground. - -Supposing that, as was suggested above, the design is to be utilised for -a dry path with a covering of metal or other light material, it will be -well to keep the whole roof to the level of the pyramidal portions--a -ridge-piece will have to be used--and the rafters, instead of following -the present arrangement, will meet in pairs opposite to the pillars. -Instead of round stuff, also, use halved stuff for the rafters and -purlins, the sawn side being uppermost. The space between ridge-piece -and purlin can then be filled in the same manner as that between purlin -and wall-plate. - - - - -CHAPTER VII. - -PORCHES. - - -The rustic porch shown in front elevation by Fig. 94 and in vertical -section by Fig. 95 is constructed from straight, well-seasoned saplings -and twigs, from which, in each case, the bark has been removed. The -design is eminently suitable for a farmhouse or a country cottage. The -porch is of large dimensions, and is provided with seating accommodation -on each side. The seats do not appear in the elevations, but one side is -shown in the part plan (Fig. 96). - -The seats are 1 ft. 6 in. high by 1 ft. 2 in. wide. The battens are -1-3/4 in. wide by 1-1/2 in. thick, and are supported on cross-pieces -fixed to the front posts and wall; a centre batten being fixed to the -centre panel, and supported by a diagonal bracket running from the front -down to the sill-piece. The floor space is 7 ft. wide, and stands out 5 -ft. from the walls. - -The posts are 7 ft. 6 in. long by 4 in. in diameter. The front posts are -preferably dropped over metal dowels leaded into the stone floor, at 1 -ft. 2 in. centres, while the side posts are at 10-1/2 in. centres, and -of smaller section--say about 3 in. in diameter. One post, 5 in. in -diameter, sawn longitudinally through the centre, does duty for the two -wall-posts, the flat portion being, of course, scribed to the wall, the -latter having been previously plugged for the reception of the fixing -nails. - -The rails are tenoned to the posts, and 1-1/4 in. diameter holes are -bored in the posts, and also in the ends of the rails, for the reception -of the inserted tenons. The ends of the rails are also hollowed to fit -roughly the posts (see Fig. 97). The lower rail is 10 in. up from the -floor, while the centre rail is 3 ft. 4 in. up. The rail immediately -below (Fig. 95) is 10 in. below the centre rail. - -[Illustration: Fig. 94.--Front Elevation of Cottage Porch.] - - -[Illustration: Fig. 95.--Vertical Section of Cottage Porch.] - -The top ends of the front posts are hollowed, and fitted with inserted -dowels for the reception of the front rail. The six side-posts are -finished off square, and have tenons which fit into the plates. The -front ends of the plates are notched to the front top rail. The rafters -are 5 ft. 7 in. long by 3 in. deep and 2 in. wide, wrought and -chamfered and birdsmouthed to the plates as shown at Fig. 98. The ridge -piece, 4 in. deep by 1-1/2 in. thick, projects 5 ft. 2 in. from the -wall. On the front end of the ridge is fixed the finial, which is 2 in. -square. The rafters are covered with 1-in. V-jointed, wrought, grooved -and tongued boarding, cut in 5-ft. 4-in. lengths, and laid horizontally -or at right angles to the rafters. - -[Illustration: Fig. 96.--Part Plan of Seat and Floor of Cottage Porch.] - -[Illustration: Fig. 97.--Section of Cottage Porch at Gable.] - -The roof may be covered with slates, with Broseley tiles, with wood -shingles, or with thatch. A part plan of the roof is shown in Fig. 99. -An enlarged section of the front angle of the gable is given in Fig. -100. Two boards, each 1 ft. 1 in. wide by 1-1/4 in. thick, are fixed to -the outer rafters and run parallel with them; the heels of the two -boards abutting on the front top rail, to which they are nailed. The -split-twig herringbone ornament is also nailed to these boards. On the -inner edges of the boards are secured twigs of about 1-3/4-in. in -diameter, which are rebated to fit to the edges as shown in Fig. 100. -The front projecting ends of the roofing boards are concealed by split -twigs of about 2-1/2-in. or 3-in. diameter, which do duty as -bargeboards. The method is shown at A (Fig. 100). - -[Illustration: Fig. 98.--Enlarged Detail of Cottage Porch at Eaves.] - -[Illustration: Fig. 99.--Part Plan of Roof for Cottage Porch.] - -The panels have now to be filled with stuff ranging from 1-1/2 in. to -2-1/4 in. in diameter. The vertically placed twigs between the posts -and rails should be fitted in place before the rails are finally jointed -up to the posts. The ends are roughly hollowed, and are secured with cut -nails. Alternatively, the vertical members could be fitted so that their -inner edges coincided with the centre of the rails. The major portion of -the twigs being on the outer side, the smaller diameter of the twigs -will thus bring their front edges flush with the larger diameter edges -of the rails. The herringbone and the diagonally placed twigs are quite -easy to fit, the ends being simply pared off till they are sufficiently -shortened to assume their correct position in the panels. - -[Illustration: Fig. 100.--Section of Gable for Cottage Porch.] - -The decorative effect of the porch will be greatly improved by the -addition of a suitable door, as shown in the front elevation (Fig. 94). -The cost of manufacture of such a door is but slightly more than that of -an ordinary six-panel door. The bottle ends in the top glazed panel form -a quaint and pleasing feature of the general scheme. - - - - -CHAPTER VIII. - -CANOPY FOR A SWING. - -[Illustration: Fig. 101.--General View of Rustic Canopy for Swing.] - - -Fig. 101 is a general view of the canopy and swing, and Fig. 102 a side -elevation slightly more elaborate in design than Fig. 101, the chief -members, however, being exactly the same. The material used is stripped -fir saplings. Six of these are required for the uprights. - -[Illustration: Fig. 102.--Side Elevation of Canopy for Swing -(Alternative Design).] - -The middle posts are slightly larger in section, as they have to carry -the cross rail supporting the swing; a good size for these is 6-in. -diameter at the base by 10 ft. or 12 ft. high. The outer posts may be -4-3/4-in. to 5-in. diameter at the base. The posts are sub-tenoned (see -Fig. 103) to elm sills 10 ft. 6 in. long by 8 in. diameter. Tenons are -formed on both ends of the posts, and seatings and mortices at 4-ft. -centres are made in both the sills (bottom rails) and plates (top rails) -to receive them. - -[Illustration: Fig. 103.--Fixing Middle Post of Canopy to Sill.] - -[Illustration: Fig. 104.--Details of Joints of Rails, Struts, and Posts -for Canopy.] - -[Illustration: Fig. 105.--Securing Cross Rails to Plates and Posts of -Canopy.] - -The short rails are 4 in. in diameter by 3 ft. 6 in. long, and are -stub-tenoned and pinned to the posts at a height of 3 ft. 9 in. from the -ground line. The struts also are tenoned and pinned to the middle posts -and sills, as shown in Fig. 104, where, it will be noticed, the struts -are in one piece and the braces in two, the latter being hollowed to fit -in the angles and over the struts. - -[Illustration: Figs. 106 and 107.--Hook and Thimble for Canopy.] - -When all the members are ready for the final drive home, the tenons of -the rails should be just entered to the posts; the struts and braces are -next placed in position and driven up, then the sill and plate are -entered and driven home, and finally the several joints are secured with -oak pins. This operation will be carried out better with the work in a -horizontal position. When the two sides are so far completed, they may -be erected in position and fixed with temporary battens, at a distance -apart of 7 ft. 9 in. centres, while the top cross rails are being -fitted. - -[Illustration: Fig. 108.--Front View of Fenced Seat for Canopy.] - -[Illustration: Fig. 109.--End View of Fenced Seat for Canopy.] - -[Illustration: Fig. 110.--Fixing Rope to Eyelet.] - -The middle cross rail which carries the swing is 6 in. in diameter and 8 -ft. 6 in. long. A seating is formed on the plates, and a shallow one -upon the rails, which are secured with long 3/4-in. diameter bolts and -nuts; the latter are let into the posts at a distance of 8 in. from the -top, as shown in Fig. 105, which is a cross section through the plate -near the middle rail. Short struts may also be fixed between the posts -and cross rail, as in Fig. 105; they are not shown in Fig. 101. A floor -is formed of saplings, connected to the sills, thus preventing them from -spreading. The trellis-work, both on the roof and sides, is now fixed. -This is composed of 1-3/4-in. and 2-in. twigs. - -The swing hooks (Fig. 106) pass right through the rails, and are secured -with nuts and washers. Collars should be forged on the shanks to prevent -the hooks being drawn too far into the wood when screwing up the nuts. -The shank is screwed 3/4-in. Whitworth pitch thread, and the hook is -1-1/4 in. in diameter at the thickest part. The hemp rope is spliced -around galvanised iron thimbles (see Fig. 107), which take the wear on -the hooks. The rope is usually secured to the seat by simply knotting -the ends. - -Should the swing be used for very young children, a seat provided with a -fence will be necessary, as shown at Figs. 108 and 109, which are front -and end views respectively. The back rail and the two side rails are -fixed to the seat with the balusters; but the front rail is tenoned to -open-ended mortices in the side rails, and thus made to hinge, to -facilitate the lifting of the children on and off the seat, the rail -being secured in its closed position with a brass pin and retaining -chain. The suspending rope in this case is passed through the end rails -and knotted to the seat. Fig. 110 shows the rope passed around and -whipped to an eyelet. - - - - -CHAPTER IX. - -AVIARY. - - -The outside dimensions of the rustic aviary shown by Figs. 111 and 112 -are--length, 3 ft. 2 in.; width, 1 ft. 6 in.; height, 1 ft. 10 in. - -Hazel sticks, with the bark on, should be used, the straightest -obtainable being best for the frame; if at all crooked or bent, the -sticks can be straightened by steaming, or, if not too dry, by the heat -of a spirit lamp. - -Four uprights, 1 ft. 5-1/2 in. by 5/8 in., are first cut; then six -rails, 1/2 in. thick, are made, with the ends shaped as shown in Fig. -113, to fit the uprights, measuring 2 ft. 10 in. inside the hollow ends -when finished. Four of these should be laid on the bench side by side, -and marked with a pair of compasses for the wires, which are 5/8 in. -apart. They are then drilled, the holes being bored right through the -two sticks for the top rails, but only half through the bottom rails. If -the stuff is not too hard, the holes may be pierced with a -well-sharpened brad awl. - -The uprights are now secured to the rails with 2-in. wire nails, driven -so as to avoid the holes (see Fig. 114), and glue is applied at the -joints. The bottom rail is flush with the lower ends, the next one being -placed 1-1/2 in. above it; the third is 1/4 in. from the top ends. These -form the front and back frames, and should be quite square and out of -winding. The rails for the ends, also six in number, measure 1 ft. 3 -in., and are bored and fixed to the uprights to correspond with the -others in exactly the same way. - -[Illustration: Fig. 111.--Front Elevation of Aviary.] - -The two rails supporting the tree perches are placed about 7 in. from -the ends. Before they are fixed, however, the tree perches must be -arranged. These should be cut from the limb of a leafless tree, in -winter, in order to retain the bark. Suitable pieces may be prepared by -cutting off badly placed twigs and fixing them where required. They are -then put on the perch rails, employing the same joint as the rails and -upright, but securing with a strong screw. - -[Illustration: Fig. 112.--End Elevation of Aviary.] - -[Illustration: Figs. 113 and 114.--Details of Joint of Rails and Uprights -for Aviary.] - -When all is ready, the perches are fixed in the framework (see Figs. 115 -and 116), and narrow strips of 1/4-in. board are fitted between the -lower rails of the back and ends, to be faced with split stuff, put on -diagonally as shown in Figs. 111 and 112. The best plan would be to take -a sufficient quantity of material to the nearest sawmill to be divided -by a circular or band saw; the material must be free from grit, or -objections will be raised against cutting it. - -A stain, made by thinning down brunswick black with turps, should be at -hand to stain the wood before fixing on the split stuff, which is -secured with fine panel pins. - -[Illustration: Fig. 115.--Part Sectional Plan of Aviary.] - -The wood bottom is 3 ft. 1-1/2 in. by 1 ft. 5-1/2 in. by 3/8 in.; it is -planed both sides, and secured in place with screws. The top side is -treated round the margin, as shown in Fig. 115, and the under side as -shown in Fig. 117. The centre of the design of the under side, covering -a space of 2 ft. 3 in. by 8 in., is worked first; it is worked from the -centre outwards, each strip being mitred as shown. The marginal strips -are pieces of split cut slanting at the ends where they fit other -pieces, and flush with the edge of the wood bottom, which is surrounded -with the same stuff. - -[Illustration: Fig. 116.--Cross Section of Aviary.] - -[Illustration: Fig. 117.--Half Under View of Bottom of Aviary.] - -[Illustration: Fig. 118.--Construction of Door Wires for Aviary.] - -The wiring is all straightforward work. The wires are passed through the -top rails to those below and clipped off level at the top. Six -feeding-holes are required, one in the centre at each end, and two at -the back and front close to the perches. The top ends of these wires are -pushed up through the rails; the circular ends are slightly sunk and -fixed with small staples. Six wires are omitted from the middle of the -front to allow for the door. The cross-wires, which should be of a -stronger gauge, are then put in. In the back and ends it is immaterial -whether they are put inside or out, but at the front they must be -inside. The six wires above the door are inserted in twos, being -returned in the same manner as the lower ends of the door wires (see -Fig. 118), and soldered to the cross-wire, which is afterwards bound to -the others with thin pliable coil wire. In making the sliding door, the -returned ends of the wires are soldered to the base wire inside, so that -the ends may fit round the wires of the doorway; the top ends fit round -those above the cross-wire, and when the door is in place a scroll-piece -is soldered on outside (see Fig. 111). - -[Illustration: Fig. 119.--Part Longitudinal Section of Aviary.] - -Eight corner-pieces of the split stuff are put on close against the -wires, being secured to the uprights and rails with pins. Two pieces of -1/4-in. board are next got out for the top, measuring 2 ft. 10 in. -long, 4 in. across the centre, and slanting at the upper edge to 1/4 in. -at the ends. The design is worked on these in split, the boards being -kept in place with pins driven through the top rails, and the back and -front connected at the top point by a length of wood of 2-in. by 1-in. -section (see Fig. 119). The roof-pieces, 1 ft. 5-1/2 in. by 1 ft. 7-1/4 -in. by 1/4 in., are nailed on and covered with split stuff, as shown by -Fig. 120. - -[Illustration: Fig. 120.--Half Plan of Aviary Roof.] - -A sliding bottom or tray is required for cleaning purposes; this is of -1/4-in. board, and is nailed to the strip that fits between the rails in -front; other strips about 1 in. wide are nailed on the upper side at the -extreme ends and back edge to form a tray for the sand, runners being -put in against the lower end rails. The front strip is treated with the -split, and to draw out the tray, the door may be slightly raised to -admit the fingers to push it forward from the inside. Two additional -perches put across from the wires, and fixed with staples, give strength -to the front and back. - -The aviary is now gone over with fine glass-paper, all white places -being touched up with the stain and nicely varnished, with the exception -of the perches. The aviary will stand on a table, but may be hung from -the ceiling if desired. For hanging purposes, four screw-eyes are put in -the top, two on the ridge, about 3 in. from the front and back, and one -towards each end, placed midway to catch the rails. The four ceiling -hooks should screw into the joists, the aviary being suspended with -chains. - - - - -CHAPTER X. - -FOOT-BRIDGES. - - -Very pleasing effects may be produced in public or private recreation -grounds by the constructional use of rustic work of good design. - -[Illustration: Fig. 121.--Rustic Foot-bridge.] - -[Illustration: Fig. 122.--Cross Section of Foot-bridge.] - -[Illustration: Fig. 123.--Enlarged Section of Girders for Foot-bridge.] - -[Illustration: Fig. 124.] - -[Illustration: Fig. 125.] - -[Illustration: Figs. 124 and 125.--Parts of Joint of Post and Girder.] - -[Illustration: Fig. 126.--Detail of Middle Rail and Post of Foot-bridge.] - -[Illustration: Figs. 127 and 128.--Joint of Strut to Post of Foot-bridge.] - -[Illustration: Fig. 129.--Twig Hollowed to fit Rail of Foot-bridge.] - -Fig. 121 is a perspective view of a rustic foot-bridge suitable for a -span of 8 ft. or 12 ft. The banks of the stream to be bridged are -excavated to allow of the building of a low rubble wall, on which the -sleepers rest, as shown in Fig. 122. The girders are formed of spruce or -larch spars. In the present instance, four are used; and they may be 8 -in. or 10 in. in diameter, according to the length of the span. They are -roughly adzed down to sit on the sleepers, and each girder is also -worked down tolerably flat on the inner sides. The girders are then -bolted together in pairs with six 3/4-in. diameter coach bolts, as -shown by Fig. 123. The posts are tenoned and wedged to fit mortices in -the girders. Figs. 124 and 125 show the mortice and tenon joint. - -[Illustration: Fig. 130.--Elevated Foot-bridge.] - -The posts and top rails are 4-1/2 in. or 5-1/2 in. in diameter, and the -intermediate rails 3 in. in diameter. Fig. 126 indicates the method of -jointing the rails to the posts. The girder spars, with posts and rails -fitted, having been placed in position on the sleepers, and plumbed up -and stayed, the floor battens, 11 in. by 2-1/2 in., are fixed and the -struts are fitted and pinned or spiked to the posts and sleepers. The -joint for the struts is shown by Figs. 127 and 128. - -[Illustration: Fig. 131.--Girder and Post of Elevated Foot-bridge Bolted -to Sleeper.] - -[Illustration: Fig. 132.--Cross Section of Elevated Foot-bridge at Lower -Step (Fig. 130).] - -If the bridge happens to be in a locality that is subject to periodical -flooding, it should be anchored to prevent its being unseated by flood -water. The anchoring can be best effected by driving four short piles -into the soil on the inside of both girders and near their ends. The -girders can be fastened to the piles with coach bolts. The tops of the -piles will be concealed by the end floor battens. The smaller twigs -forming the ornamentation are now fixed, and Fig. 129 shows the -vertical piece hollowed to fit the rails. - -Fig. 130 gives a part view, in longitudinal section, of an elevated -bridge, suitable for a span of 12 ft. to 18 ft., and raised on piles to -enable small boats and canoes to pass under. Elm logs are suitable for -the pile foundation. An iron ring must be fitted over the tops of the -logs while they are being driven, and it will be necessary to use a -pile-driver. The logs, having been sufficiently driven, are cut off to -the required height from the ground line. Three piles on each side are -required to carry the sleepers. The bridge is 5 ft. 6 in. wide, and the -spars for girders are 12 in. in diameter. The sleepers are bolted to the -piles, and the girders are also bolted to the sleepers as shown by Fig. -131. A row of smaller piles is now driven, and a plank, 11 in. by 3 in., -is housed to the top ends of these piles, and also connected to the -projecting ends of the girders. The treads of the steps rest upon the -tops of the smaller piles, and the outer side of the piles and planks is -covered with split saplings (see Fig. 130, and the cross-section, Fig. -132). The handrails and balustrades are fixed in similar manner to those -in Fig. 121. - - - - -CHAPTER XI. - -VERANDAHS. - - -The front elevation of a rustic verandah is presented by Fig. 133, which -shows a part only, which may be extended to any required length at -either end. As to the width, that indicated is 3-1/2 ft. from the wall -to the middle of the collar-posts, the eaves having a further projection -of 6 in. For a cottage verandah the width given is a satisfactory one. -It gives sufficient room for seats on a hot day, or for a promenade on a -wet one. The width, as also the height, can easily be increased to suit -a larger house. The verandah is supposed to be built on a raised -platform of brick or stone. - -All parts of the actual framework are of straight natural wood, -preferably larch; whilst the mere filling-in of rustic open-work is of -small crooked stuff--probably oak or apple tree. The roof, as -illustrated, is of tiles. - -It will be seen that the posts which support the verandah are arranged -in pairs, so that 3 in. or 3-1/2 in. poles will suffice for them. Their -bases are supposed to be dowelled to the masonry of the platform on -which they stand; they are 6 ft. 6 in. high. Except at the entrances, a -sill of half-stuff runs from post to post on the platform. At a height -of 3 ft. 3 in. they are connected by a round bar of smaller material, -and, again, by a second cross-bar of similar size to the last, at 6 in. -from their upper ends. On the tops of the posts rests a lintel of -half-stuff of larger diameter--say 5 in. The upper and lower cross-bars -come opposite to the middles of the posts, but need not be mortised into -them, for if their ends are cut V-shaped, so as to clip the posts, they -can be nailed quite firmly. - -[Illustration: Fig. 133.--Front Elevation of Verandah.] - -The lower cross-rail is placed at a convenient height for leaning upon. -At a height of 5 ft. 6 in. caps are formed by simply nailing four pieces -of quartered stuff round each post. The diagonal braces which start from -above the capitals pass in front of the upper cross-bars, to which and -to the lintel they are nailed. Fig. 133 sufficiently shows how the -panels between the pairs of posts and the frieze between the upper -cross-bar and lintel are filled with open-work of small crooked -branches, which contrasts in a pleasing manner with the straight pieces -of the framework. This open-work may be made available for, and will be -found useful as, a support for climbing plants. - -In so narrow a structure the rafters alone will suffice to keep all in -place, without anything of the nature of a tie-beam being called for. -These rafters will be of half-stuff, and for the given width a length of -5 ft. will be enough; this will allow of such a projection beyond the -lintel as will give the eaves a width of 6 in.; the pitch will be rather -less than a true pitch, but amply steep for the purpose. A piece of -half-stuff nailed to the wall will support the upper ends of the -rafters. - -In forming the roof it is proposed to board over the whole space upon -the rafters, and to nail the tiles or other covering upon the boards. -The inside may be lined beneath the boarding with rush matting. This is -an inexpensive material; its brownish-green hue is pleasing to the eye, -and it is so inartificial in appearance as to harmonise well with the -natural wood. After fixing the rafters, the matting is to be stretched -tightly across them before the boards are nailed down. It is probable -that the rafters will be arranged with intervals of about a foot between -them, and to hold the matting more closely to the boards a strip of -split rod may be nailed up the middle of each space, or strips may be -nailed so as to form a simple ornamental pattern; an intricate one will -not be desirable, as fixing it will be overhead work. - -[Illustration: Fig. 134.--Front Elevation of Glazed Verandah for Grape -Culture.] - -A neat, but less characteristic, ceiling may be formed by painting the -boards a suitable colour and slightly ornamenting them with split -strips of rod. In this case the boards should be planed. None will -be better for this purpose than 3/4-in. flooring boards, and these are -commonly sold planed on one side. Other ways of lining the roofs of -rustic buildings are discussed in Chapter XIII. For summer-houses thatch -makes a good-looking roof, but a thatched verandah would scarcely be -desirable unless attached to a thatched cottage. Practically the choice -lies between shingles, metal, and tile or slate. A metal roof is, -undoubtedly, that most easily fixed by the beginner; black sheet iron -looks better than galvanised, and must be kept painted. As a matter of -taste, metal looks thin and poor, but it becomes less objectionable when -painted; a deep, dull red would be the colour to be preferred. Perhaps, -of all available coverings, nothing will look better than tiles, as -drawn. Red or buff tiles will in themselves look best, but the choice -must, to an extent, be influenced by the general covering of the house. -It may be, if that is of slate, that small slates will come in most -appropriately; but whichever of these coverings is used, the best finish -against the wall will be with a "flashing" of metal, as shown. - -It has been asserted by some who consider themselves authorities in -matters of taste that nothing of the nature of a greenhouse ever -harmonises with natural surroundings, or is otherwise than an eyesore in -a garden in other respects beautiful. The hard, straight lines of wood -or metal, and wide surfaces of shining glass, are not pleasing, and are -too suggestive of the shop and factory to accord well with natural -objects. It has been suggested that the difficulty might be overcome by -combining rustic work with glass. This, at the first glance, looks -fairly easy; but, on consideration, it will be seen to be otherwise. -Rustic carpentry is in its nature irregular, and cannot be brought to -those level planes and straight lines essential to glass-work; whilst -for interiors, and especially those of houses intended for vines, rough -bark-coloured surfaces afford too much shelter to insect pests--so that, -in reality, rustic-work can only be made applicable to a very limited -extent. In the grape-growing verandah shown by Fig. 134, therefore, only -a limited amount of rustic-work has been introduced, and that on the -outside. - -[Illustration: Fig. 135.--Side View of Bottom of Post for Glazed -Verandah.] - -[Illustration: Fig. 136.--Side View of Top of Post for Glazed Verandah.] - -Such of the materials as are of a rustic kind are, for the parapet and -uprights, some rather small larch poles or other tolerably straight, -round stuff, and for the panels, some of those "slabs," or rough outside -planks. As to the posts, and such parts as are not rustic, they are -supposed to be of good deal. The sash-bars, which carry the glass both -in roof and walls, are to be bought struck by steam at a lower price -than they can be worked by hand, or sashes may be bought ready glazed. -For glazing work of this kind, 16-oz., or sometimes 20-oz., glass is -used. - -As in the design for an open rustic verandah (see Fig. 133) it is -intended that the collar-posts should be set upon and dowelled into a -raised platform of masonry. The present structure is, of course, -intended for the warmer sides of a house, south or west. The width, to -meet particular cases, can be varied, but is, according to the drawings, -4-1/2 ft. The posts are 6 ft. high and 3-1/2 in. square. They are set -with spaces between them alternately of 3 ft. and 4-1/2 ft. On their -tops rests a wall-plate of the same width as themselves, and 2-1/2 in. -deep. The rafters, which are sash-bars rebated to carry the glass, rest -on this wall-plate, and against a second vertical one fixed to the house -wall. - -Fig. 134 is a front elevation of a portion of the verandah, whilst Fig. -135 gives a side view of the lower half of one of the collar-posts. At -_a_, in Fig. 135, is seen the section of the upper cross-rail, which has -its top 2-1/2 ft. from the ground; at _b_ is the lower cross-rail, or -sill. Both are of quartered rough stuff, and are mortised to the post -3/4 in. from its inner edge, so that when the 3/4-in. boarding, _c_, is -nailed against them, it will come flush with the inner side of the post. -At _d_ is indicated the sash-frame, with its rebate for glass, which -occupies the upper part of the opening; and at _e_ is a metal flashing -between rail and sash to throw off rain. It is proposed that the sashes -in the narrower openings only should be made to push outwards at bottom -for ventilation. At _f_ is a piece of halved rough stuff nailed to the -front of the post. - -The panels, which occupy the lower part of the space between the -collar-posts, are filled with pieces of rough plank or "slab," as shown -in Fig. 134. These pieces should wear their natural bark as far as -possible; they are nailed to the inner boarding. - -In Fig. 136 the upper part of a post is in like manner shown in profile: -_g_ is the wall-plate in section, and _h_ is the lower end of a rafter. -At _i_ will be observed a strip of quartered stuff nailed across the -post (with a fir-cone bradded beneath it), which gives a starting-point -to the upright _k_, by which the openwork rustic parapet is supported. -These uprights are of small round stuff, slightly flattened on the side -towards the post. The openwork parapet is too plainly figured to need -description; it is intended to break to a certain extent the straight -lines, and partially to conceal the glass-work of the roof, without -seriously interfering with sunshine. - -So much of the planed wood-work as shows outside should be painted of a -good brown, to assimilate with the rustic-work. - - - - -CHAPTER XII. - -TOOL HOUSES, GARDEN SHELTERS, ETC. - -[Illustration: Fig. 137.--End Elevation of Rustic Tool House.] - -[Illustration: Fig. 138.--Side Elevation of Rustic Tool House.] - -For the small rustic tool house shown by Figs. 137 and 138 the materials -used are what are known as "slabs" or "rough planks." These are cheap, -and have, when judiciously handled, a good picturesque effect. These -slabs are the outside slices cut from logs of rough timber. These slabs -generally retain their bark (except in the case of oak), and in most -districts they will commonly be of elm. Their thickness and outlines are -necessarily irregular: one end will frequently be narrower than the -other; and this will account for the arrangement seen in the walls and -door of the tool house. They are to be bought at saw-mills, and often -sold at a fire-wood price. Where their cost is not sensibly increased by -carriage, no other material comes so cheaply for building rough sheds. -The ordinary country way of using them is as in the horizontal section, -Fig. 139. This plan, however, is not suitable for the present purpose. -In so small a structure, rough planks on the inner side would take up -too much space It is, therefore, proposed to straighten the edges, -either by sawing or by chopping with the axe, according to -circumstances, and lining their inner sides with thin board. If the cost -be not objected to, 1/2-in. match-boarding will be neatest for this -purpose; if economy is an object, the boards of packing-boxes, bought -from the grocer, might suffice. There are, it will be seen, three sides -only to be lined. - -Among a lot of rough planks, it is likely that stuff may be found -sufficient for the posts and other scantling. As to the six pilasters, -which are added for appearance merely, it is possible that stuff might -be found which would, when sawn to width, do for them; in the -illustration they are supposed to be fir poles or elm saplings; four -sticks only are needed to supply the six halves and four quarters used. - -[Illustration: Fig. 139.--Common Method of Using Slabs.] - -At the corners are four main posts, 4 in. square (see _a_, Fig. 140). -These enclose a space of 7 ft. by 5 ft. (outside measurement). They are -let into the ground 2 ft., and rise 5 ft. 3 in. above the ground line. - -On their tops, and coming flush with their outer edges, rest the -wall-plates, which are 3 in. deep; these are needed at the back and -sides only, and not at the front. On the same three sides will also be -cross-rails, 2 in. to 3 in. thick, the ends of which will be let flush -into the posts about a foot from the ground. To the wall-plates and -these rails the slabs are nailed. In the side elevation, Fig. 138, the -nails driven into the cross-rails appear, but not those driven into the -wallplate, a piece of rough stuff being there shown as fixed over the -latter to support the eaves of the thatch. - -[Illustration: Fig. 140.--Ground Plan of Rustic Tool House.] - -To the front are to be seen the two door-posts, _b_, _b_, Fig. 140, -which are 2 ft. 8 in. apart, and should be about 3 in. square. As their -tops are nailed to the front pair of rafters, they rise to a height of 6 -ft. 6 in. The space between door-post and corner-post is filled up by a -single slab nailed to the two--5 ft. 6 in. long by 10 in. broad. Above -these, instead of a wall-plate, comes the piece of strong slab, shown in -Fig. 137 as having an opening cut in it for the head of the door. This -is nailed against the door-posts, rafters, etc. - -The pilasters are only a matter of ornament. As drawn, they are of -halved stuff; the corner ones are so placed that their middles come -opposite to the corners of the posts, on the other faces of which pieces -of quartered stuff are nailed to meet them. The simple arrangement of -the caps of these pilasters, with their decorations of fir cones, is -shown on a larger scale in Fig. 141. The horizontal piece beneath the -eaves, nailed over the slabs, has the effect of resting on the caps. -Beneath the thatch at front and back corresponding pieces are fixed, -those at the front being ornamented with fir cones nailed upon them. - -The roof is shown in the elevations as thatched. No other covering will -look so well, or be so thoroughly in keeping with other parts. The -non-professional builder finds it easy to prepare for thatch, any rough -stuff serving as rafters and laths, and inequalities being of no -account. The rafters for thatch should be arranged about 1 ft., the -laths about 6 in. apart. - -Should there, however, be reasons for not employing thatch, the building -may be more quickly and easily, if not more cheaply, roofed with -galvanised iron; only the gables will then best be made sharp instead of -blunt, as at present. - -Regarding the door, its outer slabs, which appear in Fig. 137, are -simply nailed to three ledgers of the same. Being of such rough -materials, it will open better if hung on hooks and thimbles than on -butt hinges. - -The dotted line at _c_, Fig. 140, marks the projection of a set of -shelves, about five in number, which fill the whole of the left-hand -side. Of these, the lower will be for flower-pots, the upper for lines, -setting-pins, trowels, etc. At _d_ is shown a strip of wood fixed -across the floor to hold the wheel of the barrow from running back when -that useful vehicle is tilted up against the end wall, which will be the -place assigned for it. In the gable and upper part of this end will be -hooks or pegs on which to hang the riddle, watering-cans, and such -matters. At _e_ is an upright let into the ground, which, at the height -of 2 ft., supports rails running to side and back; these form a kind of -stand for spades, forks, and tools of that description. Above, against -the wall-plate, may be more hooks or pegs. - -[Illustration: Fig. 141.--Enlarged Cap of Tool House Pilaster.] - -It is suggested that at _f_ a seat might be fixed to fold down like the -leaf of a table when not wanted. As this building would form a snug -shelter in a shower, such a seat would be a convenience; but the more -important use of this space is that slightly below the level of the -eaves it will be fitted with a rack for hoes, rakes, and similar -implements. Such a rack is best made by boring 1/2-in. holes in a strip -of wood at intervals of 3 in., and driving pegs into them 5 in. or 6 in. -long. This has to be nailed so that the pegs will slope upwards, at an -angle of about 45 deg.. Rakes, etc., hung in a rack so made cannot fall. - -Figs. 137 and 138 are 1/3 in. to the foot; Fig. 140 is 1/2 in. to the -foot; but Figs. 139 and 141 are not drawn to scale. - -[Illustration: Fig. 142.--Garden Snuggery.] - -The garden snuggery, of which a general view is shown at Fig. 142, and a -ground plan at Fig. 143, is built chiefly of wood, and measures 10 ft. -by 7 ft. 8 in. inside, not including the porch, which is 3 ft. wide; it -may serve as a summer-house. A building as small as this needs but -little foundation. If the ground is level, it is only necessary to lay -four large flat stones on the surface, A A (Fig. 144), to carry the -timbers, the floor being thus raised enough to keep it dry. - -[Illustration: Fig. 143.--Plan of Ground Framework of Garden Snuggery.] - -[Illustration: Fig. 144.--Back Framework for Garden Snuggery.] - -The two side sills B (Fig. 143) are each 10 ft. 8 in. long, 6 in. wide, -and 4 in. thick, and rest on the stones; on them lie the end sills C C, -which are 8 ft. 2 in. long. These sills are halved together at the ends, -and a hole is bored through them where the middle of the collar-post -will rest. This hole should be bored a couple of inches into the stone, -and an iron pin or dowel 8 in. long driven in; the pin will thus stand a -couple of inches above the face of the sill, and will fit into a hole in -the collar post. - -[Illustration: Fig. 145.--Front Elevation of Snuggery Porch.] - -The joists D (Fig. 143) for supporting the floor are five in number, -each being 8 ft. long, 2-1/2 in. wide, and 3 in. deep. They are halved -for a distance of 2 in. at each end to fit into slots, 1-1/2 in. deep, -made for them in the sills, and are nailed in place. When fixed their -upper surfaces are level with the sills. - -The four collar-posts E (Figs. 143 and 144) are each 6 ft. 9 in. long -and 4 in. square, and, when set up, their outer sides come flush with -the sills. The uprights F (Figs. 143 and 144) are 3 in. square, and need -to be 2 in. longer than the collar-posts, as their lower ends are halved -for this distance to fit slots in the outer sides of the sills. There -are four of such uprights at each side, three at the back and two at the -front, the latter serving also as door cheeks. They are nailed in place -with their outer sides flush with those of the collar-posts and sills. - -[Illustration: Fig. 146.--Side Elevation of Window-board.] - -For the rustic pillars of the portico G (Fig. 145) nothing will be more -suitable than larch poles about 4-1/2 in. in diameter at the base; -failing larch, fairly straight pieces of any rough, round wood could be -used. The pillars are shown in Figs. 142 and 145 standing upon and -dowelled to pieces of stone. When in position, their tops will be level -with the collar-posts and uprights, their centres being 2 ft. 4 in. in -advance of the front sill. - -On the collar-posts, uprights, and pillars are placed the wall plates H -(Fig. 144), of which there are four belonging to the snuggery proper, -each 5 in. wide and 3 in. thick. The side plates are 13 ft. 4 in. long, -and are halved where they rest on the collar-posts and pillars, to -receive the ends of the cross-plates, which are 8 ft. 2 in. long and -halved to a distance of 5 in. from their ends. The wall-plates come -flush with the collar-posts and uprights on which they rest, and to -which they are nailed. There is also a fifth wall-plate which lies along -the tops of the pillars in the front. The best material to use for this -would be half of a pole like those used for the pillars, the flat side -resting on the pillar tops. It will be observed that the front ends of -the side wall-plates project about 4 in. beyond this piece. - -Ten rafters, K (Fig. 144), will be required for the roof, each 5 ft. -long and 3 in. square. The two outer pairs come flush with the outer -sides of the sills and wall-plates. A sixth pair of rafters to stand -over the pillars and their wall-plates are made from a round pole cut in -half, with the sawn side laid uppermost. The tops of the rafters butt -against a ridge-piece L (Fig. 144), made of 1-in. board 4 in. deep and -13 ft. 4 in. long. As shown in Fig. 144, continuations of the uprights -are in the back carried from the wall-plate to the roof, the front being -treated in a similar manner. - -The lintel of the doorway is 6 ft. above the sill, the door opening -being 5 ft. 11-1/4 in. by 2 ft. 6 in. after the floor has been laid. The -window shown in Fig. 142 is 3 ft. above the sill, and is 3 ft. high; -including the two mullions, it is 5 ft. 10 in. wide. The board shown -nailed in front of the window sill is sloped a little downwards to throw -off the rain, whilst above there is a board 9 in. wide, nailed at a -steeper slope upon brackets, as seen in Fig. 146, to shelter the window. -The 3/4-in. flooring boards which are used for the floor should be -bought ready planed on one side, and must be well seasoned, and cramped -tightly together in laying, or there will be chinks between them. -Similar boards may be used for the outside of the snuggery, being nailed -to the uprights at the back and sides, as shown in Fig. 147. At the -sides this weather-boarding will extend as far forward as the rustic -pillars, thus enclosing the sides of the porch. For the inside of the -snuggery use 1/2-in. matchboarding, as shown in Fig. 147. This may be -carried up beneath the rafters to the ridge-piece. The porch may be also -matchboarded throughout if desired, although this is not essential. - -[Illustration: Figs. 147 and 148.--Sections of Snuggery Walls.] - -There are several methods of making the wooden walls non-conductors of -heat, the most thorough being to pack the space between the inner and -outer casings with sawdust. Shavings or similar materials could also be -used, but less effectually. Another plan is to tack felt over the inner -side of the weather-boarding before nailing up the interior casing. But -even without any packing, two thicknesses of board with an air space -between make a reasonably good non-conductor. Felt is fastened over the -matchboard lining of the roof before the iron is put on. - - -[Illustration: Fig. 149.--Front View of Garden Retreat.] - -To reduce the cost, the snuggery can be cased with wood obtained from -packing cases. Boards thus obtained will, of course, be in short -lengths, and will involve more labour; but the design is so arranged -that it will be quite practicable to carry it out with them. - -[Illustration: Fig. 150.--Plan of Garden Retreat.] - -The short lengths can be made to fit between the uprights instead of -lying upon them, and the house will thus look as shown in Fig. 142, the -section of the wall being as shown in Fig. 148, instead of as in Fig. -147. A strip of lath--that sold for tiling--1 in. wide and 5/8 in. -thick, is nailed to the sides of the uprights, as shown, and to this the -weather-boarding and internal casing are fastened; the effect being -that the walls both inside and out appear to be divided into long -panels. The effect may be heightened by painting the framework a darker -colour than the boarding. In boarding the roof with this material, the -easiest plan will be to nail the pieces on the upper sides of the -rafters, to cover them with felt, and upon that to screw the iron. The -space between the two casings of the walls, although much narrower than -before, can be packed with sawdust, etc. - -On reference to Fig. 145 it will be seen that the caps to the rustic -pillars of the porch are formed by nailing round each pillar four short -pieces of rough wood quartered, the two sawn sides being placed upwards -and inwards. Four rough sticks crossing each other fill the space -between wall-plate and the rafters. The bargeboards M M are sawn from -3/4-in. board, 9 in. wide, and are nailed to the ends of the side -wall-plates and ridge-piece. They thus project some inches beyond the -line of the pillars. They are shown ornamented with fir cones bradded on -them; virgin cork might be used instead. The porch may also have its -interior decorated with virgin cork or with rustic mosaic work. At each -side of the doorway there is a seat 16 in. high and 14 in. wide. The -door is made by merely nailing the boards to four cross-ledgers. - -The window lights in Fig. 142 are shown filled with fancy lead work, -which is the most suitable way of treating them for a building of this -kind. A strip of lath is nailed around the window opening, as in Fig. -148, and the leaded light fastened in the rebate thus formed with small -wire nails, a little putty being used to make the joints waterproof. It -will, of course, be much cheaper to glaze each light with a single sheet -of glass puttied in the rebate, but the effect will not be so good. For -the roof, fourteen 6-ft. sheets of corrugated galvanised iron and a -14-ft. run of ridge capping will be needed. - -[Illustration: Fig. 151.--Side Elevation of Garden Retreat.] - -The iron should be screwed, not nailed, to the rafters, and should not -cost more than 40s., including 1-1/2 gross of galvanised screws and -washers. The dotted lines at N N (Fig. 143) indicate the area covered. -Its low cost, the ease with which it is fixed, and the few timbers -required to carry it, make an iron roof very suitable for a building -erected by an amateur workman. It, however, has drawbacks, the chief of -which are that it conducts heat too freely, and has not a very artistic -appearance. Some precautions against the first defect have already been -suggested, and if the snuggery is erected where it will be shaded by -trees during the hotter part of the day, this disadvantage will be -somewhat overcome. Its inartistic appearance is greatly due to its -colour, and some improvement may be made by painting. If surrounded by -trees, an iron roof looks very well when painted a reddish-brown colour, -while in other situations a buff, or a dull sage green, might be -suitable. The paint needs renewing often. Another method is to cover the -roof with trellis work raised a few inches above the iron, and upon this -to train ivy or other climbing plants. - -[Illustration: Fig. 152.--Detail of Seat of Garden Retreat.] - -It will be better to paint the inside of the snuggery than to paper it, -as paper would crack on the boards. Should the second and cheaper plan -of boarding be adopted, the rafters, which are left exposed, might be -coloured dark brown, and the intermediate spaces of the ceiling painted -a buff colour, whilst on the walls a dark sage green might be used for -the framework and a lighter sage green for the panels. If the whole -interior is lined with matchboarding, according to the first method, the -simplest and perhaps best finish would be to use a varnish that had raw -or burnt umber ground into it. No fireplace has been provided, but in -ordinary winter weather an oil stove would suffice to warm so small a -room; if more warmth is wanted, a coal stove might easily be provided, a -hole for its pipe being cut through the roof. In either case a -ventilator, which can be opened or closed at pleasure, should be -arranged near the ridge at each end of the building. - -[Illustration: Fig. 153.--Joint of Garden Retreat at C (Fig. 151).] - -The garden retreat shown in front view by Fig. 149, and in plan and side -elevation by Figs. 150 and 151, is constructed from straight unbarked -fir saplings, the small twigs of which should be carefully trimmed off. -As the bark is to be left on, it should not be cut or bruised; then no -artificial finish will be necessary, the bark in itself being sufficient -protection against climatic conditions, and presenting the desired -rustic appearance. A new feature in the design is the introduction of a -roof or canopy, which may be covered with a sun blind as shown in Fig. -151; or a creeping plant may be trained over it. - -The two front posts are 3 in. in diameter at the base by 6 ft. high, -and the back posts 3 in. in diameter by 5 ft. 6 in. high; the middle -back post is 3 ft. 2 in. high, and the front leg 1 ft. 4 in. The seat -rails are 2-1/2 in. in diameter. The front rail is 6 ft. long; the back -is in two parts, dowelled to the middle post, which comes between. The -side rails are 1 ft. 9 in. long; it is advisable to allow a fair margin -for hollowing the ends to fit the posts--3 in. on the length would -probably be sufficient. After the ends of the rails have been shaped -roughly to fit the posts, they are bored for the reception of 1-1/8-in. -oak or elm dowels; these are driven into the rails, and should also be a -good fit in the posts. The dowel joint is shown in the top corner of -Fig. 152. - -[Illustration: Fig. 154.--Detail of Front Joints (See C. Fig. 151).] - -[Illustration: Fig. 155.--Alternative Method of Joining Rails to Posts.] - -The lower rungs, arm-rests, and back rails are jointed to the posts by -tapering their ends slightly, and then tapering the dowel holes to suit -with a gouge, so that the rails will just drive up nicely; this joint is -shown in the bottom corner of Fig. 152. The rails, etc., are finally -driven home, and secured with nails or screws inserted at suitable -angles. The back and the side panels are filled with twigs about 1-1/4 -in. in diameter, the ends of the twigs being trimmed to fit the rails, -and afterwards nailed in position. - -The seat battens are half-round in section, and are cut from 3-in. -saplings, the flat part being placed downwards. The method of fixing -them is shown in Figs. 152, 156, and 157. The seat having been fitted, -the struts under the seat rails are next cut and fixed in position. - -[Illustration: Fig 156.--Section of Middle Rail at A (Fig. 152).] - -[Illustration: Fig 157.--Detail of Middle Rail at B (Fig. 152).] - -The canopy must now be put together. The tops of the posts are first -hollowed to form a seating for 2-1/4-in. saplings, 4 ft. 6 in. long; -these act as principal rafters. Before nailing or screwing them to the -posts, it is advisable to sight across them to see if they are in the -same plane; any alteration that may be required to bring them to lie in -the same angle can be effected at the seating on the top of the posts. -The halved joint at each end of the principals should also be cut -(before fixing up) for receiving the purlins; the principals are further -steadied with struts, screwed or nailed to the posts. The purlins are -about 2 in. in diameter by 8 ft. 6 in. long, and are fixed to the halved -joint previously made on the principal rafters. Smaller twigs, which act -as common rafters, are in turn fixed to the purlins. Fig. 153 shows the -method of jointing at the back of the canopy at C (Fig. 151), and Fig. -154 is the detail of the front joints. Fig. 129 (p. 94) is the top of -the post hollowed to receive the principal rafter, Fig. 155 is an -alternative method of joining the rails to the posts, Fig. 156 is a -section near the middle rail at A (Fig. 152), while Fig. 157 is a detail -of middle rail at B (Fig. 152). - - - - -CHAPTER XIII. - -SUMMER-HOUSES. - - -The lean-to summer-house shown by Fig. 158 is intended for a small -garden. Perhaps in no better way can a dead wall or the back of some -unsightly outhouse be better utilised than as the background for such a -building. The dimensions of the structure are: length, 8 ft.; breadth, 3 -ft. 3 in.; height, 8 ft. - -[Illustration: Fig. 158.--Lean-to Summer-house.] - -[Illustration: Fig. 159.--Ground Plan of Lean-to Summer-house.] - -Its general arrangement is seen in the ground plan (Fig. 159). Four -pillars, A, B, B, A, occupy the front. These are poles 3-1/2 in. or 4 -in. in diameter. Any rough and tolerably straight wood will do, but -larch is to be preferred. These rise 5 ft. above ground, and should not -have less than 2 ft. below the surface. The dwarf pillars C supporting -the seat are of similar stuff, but rather smaller. They show 14 in. -above, and should be buried about 9 in. below ground. The pilasters D -are of rather larger stuff sawn in half. These are only 5 ft. long, as -they need not enter into the ground, being fixed only by strong nails to -the wall. - -[Illustration: Fig 160.--Elevation of Inside of End of Lean-to -Summer-house.] - -The ends of the summer-house (the space from A to D) are of smaller -half-stuff, ranged side by side (as seen at E, E), and nailed to the -cross-pieces, F and G, which appear in Fig. 160. In this last-named -figure also appears one of the wall-plates, resting on and nailed to the -tops of the pillars (H, at Fig. 160), and at I is seen where one of the -front wall-plates meets it. There are two of these front wall-plates, -each resting on the two pillars to right and left of the entrance, and -their inner ends appear in Fig. 158, where the ends of the purlins which -form the small gable rest upon them. The wall-plates are of large -half-stuff, with the flat side above. In Fig. 160 will be seen how the -short cross-piece which carries the sloping end of the roof is -supported; and Fig. 161, which is a section through the centre of the -building, explains how the ridge-piece of the small gable, E, rests at -its inner end on a crosspiece M from rafter to rafter, seen in section -only, whilst N shows the point at which the purlins meet and support the -ridge-piece towards its outer end. The intersection of the diagonal -braces in the gable is indicated at O, and P shows the course of one of -the rafters, and how its upper end rests against the wall, and upon a -ridge-piece of half-stuff, Q, strongly nailed to the masonry. - -The elevation (Fig. 158) explains pretty clearly the ornamental details -of the front. They are not elaborate. It will be seen that the top of -each pillar has a small cap, formed of four pieces of quartered stuff, -mitred at the corners, and that across the opening on each side of the -entrance, near the top, is a "transom" of straight wood, with a little -arrangement of crooked bangles round it. Over the entrance are diagonal -braces crossing, and also a little filling-in with bangles. The entrance -is 5 ft. 10 in. high. - -In order that an ornamental and appropriate lining may be given to the -back of our summer-house, it is recommended to plug the wall, and nail -over it a level covering of thin boards--say, 1/2-in. matchboarding. -Upon this the decorative work can be bradded. The back of the seat is -shown in Fig. 158 to be of rustic mosaic. Above this, as well as under -the seats, a covering of bark has been introduced. British-grown bark, -such as elm, can be made to lie flat, but as in any but rural districts -this may be difficult to get, virgin cork may be made to take its place. - -Fig. 160 gives an inside view of one of the ends, and from this it will -be seen that the ornamentation of those parts varies little from that of -the back. The lower band, however, answering to the strip under the -seats, is not bark, which, in this place, would be liable to be kicked -and destroyed by the feet, but of smaller half-stuff, so arranged as to -break joint with the outside pieces. This will be seen by referring to -the ground plan. Any chinks in the ends should be neatly tucked with -moss, so as to make them wind-proof. - -The roof is of wooden shingles--things which any rough hand at carpentry -can prepare and put on for himself. As will be seen from Fig. 158, it is -easy to give an ornamental character to these. They will have a rustic -look, which will go well with other parts of the structure, and, if -clumsily made, the effect will be none the worse. For the present -purpose, suppose the shingles to be 12 in. by 4 in. The lower ends may -be sawn to a variety of ornamental shapes. - -If this covering is used, instead of nailing laths across the rafters, -it is proposed to cover the whole roof with similar boarding to the -back, and upon this it is a simple thing to nail the shingles, placing -them just as tiles might be placed. Whilst nailing them on, it will be -necessary to have some person within to hold a heavy hammer against the -place, otherwise the vibration will jar off the shingles as fast as they -are fixed. A 3/4-in. board, rather wider than half the length of the -shingles, should first be nailed along the eaves to make up the required -thickness. - -[Illustration: Fig. 161.--Section through Centre of Lean-to -Summer-house.] - -It will be noticed that the ends of the rafters are made to project so -as to give a good breadth of eaves--a desirable feature in so narrow a -building, alike for shade, shelter, and the appearance of cosiness. If, -however, the roof should be thatched, the projecting rafters will be -unnecessary, as the thatch alone will form sufficient eaves. - -Down the "valleys" at the juncture of the main roof and the entrance -gable a strip of zinc will, of course, be nailed before the shingles are -put on, whilst along the ridges a strip of zinc will be nailed upon the -shingles; and this latter will need painting to match the colour of the -wood. - -Various suggestions may be given for finishing the inside of the roof. -Supposing that round or half-round larch stuff has been used for the -rafters (the latter is to be preferred for shingles, as giving a level -surface to board upon), the space between the rafters may be covered -with bark--virgin cork or otherwise--the chinks being stuffed with moss. -But if this is done it will be well to fix the bark with screws, as the -vibration caused by driving nails would displace or loosen the shingles. - -A second plan under the like circumstances would be before nailing the -boards upon the rafters to stretch matting across the latter--either -ordinary garden bast matting or, better, the more substantial rush -matting, both of which are very inexpensive. These have a pleasant -natural colour (the last-named especially, of a greenish hue), and are -so unartificial in their structure as to appear in no way out of place -among rustic work. - -Or it may so happen that suitable larch stuff is not to hand, and that -ordinary sawn scantling has to be used for the rafters. If so, the whole -roof may be hung with ling; or the rush matting may be stretched across -the lower side of the rafters and tacked there, being afterwards more -completely secured and finished by nailing a split hazel or other rod -down the middle of each rafter. This last plan makes a neat and pleasing -roof. - -[Illustration: Figs. 162 and 163.--Front and Side Elevations of Shelter -for Tennis Lawn.] - -[Illustration: Fig. 164.--Part Roof, Seat, and Floor Plans for Tennis -Lawn Shelter.] - -It scarcely needs to be said that to make such a summer-house look its -best the wall on each side ought to be covered with ivy or other -creepers; and it will also be obvious that, if the height of the wall -permits the floor of the summer-house to be raised a step or two above -the surrounding level, the structure will gain thereby both in -effectiveness of appearance and in pleasantness as a place in which to -sit. - -[Illustration: Fig. 165.--Connecting Plates to Corner Post.] - -[Illustration: Fig. 166.--Fixing Sleeper to Posts.] - -[Illustration: Fig 167.--Section of Flooring.] - -[Illustration: Fig. 168.--Finial.] - -[Illustration: Fig. 169.--Detail of Garden Shelter at Front Eaves.] - -[Illustration: Fig 170.--Section of Seat.] - -The rustic summer-house or tennis lawn shelter illustrated in front and -side elevations by Figs. 162 and 163 is constructed from straight -saplings and twigs that have had their bark removed, and have been -subjected to a reasonable period of seasoning. A new feature in the -design is the accommodation under the seats for the reception of the -croquet or tennis gear, and also the extended eaves and floor (see Fig. -164) and the open front, giving at once an uninterrupted view of the -game and shelter from the direct rays of the sun. - -The shelter is 10 ft. long by 5 ft. 6 in. wide, the height from the -floor to the eaves being 6 ft. 3 in., and from the floor to the ridge 9 -ft. The four posts are 6 ft. 9 in. long by 6 in. in diameter. The middle -and lower end and the back rails are tenoned to the posts, a flat being -formed on the post by the mortise and a corresponding shoulder on the -rails. The remaining portion is worked to fit roughly the contour of the -post. - -The plates are 5 in. by 5 in. in section, and are secured to the posts -with long galvanised bolts and nuts and a 3-1/2-in. square washer under -the heads of the bolts. When halving the front plate, allow it to house -into the side plates 1-1/2 in.; by this method it will have a bearing on -both posts. In Fig. 165 the left-hand plate represents the front. The -front posts are connected at the floor line by a scantling, 4 in. by 3 -in., which also forms a sleeper for the floor joists; see Figs. 166 and -167. - -The structure rests on a low plinth of bricks, spaces being left for the -circulation of air under the floor. - -The extended floor also rests on bricks placed immediately below the -joists; see Fig. 167, which is a section on C D (Fig. 164). The twig -plinth nailed around the front will effectually conceal the sleeper and -brick foundation. - -The rafters are 2-1/2 in. by 3 in., and the ridge and hip rafters 2 in. -by 5 in., the finials (see Fig. 168) being nailed between the angles of -the hips. The eaves in front project 2 ft. beyond the posts, and Fig. -169 shows the method by which the additional width is obtained. - -[Illustration: Fig. 171.--Strapping Cushion to Seat.] - -[Illustration: Fig. 172.--Front Elevation of Octagonal Summer-house.] - -The sides are filled with 5/8-in. vee-grooved and tongued boarding, to -which is attached the rustic work. - -The stained glass windows are fixed, and on the outer side of the back -are diagonal braces made from split saplings, while in the centre a -vertical post runs from sill to plate. - -The braces and post are shown in the plan (Fig. 164). - -The seats are constructed to form lockers (see Fig. 170, which is a -section at A B, Fig. 164), their height being 1 ft. 3 in., which, with -the addition of a 3-in. cushion, will form comfortable sitting -accommodation. - -The cushions are retained in place by straps passing through slots and -fastening over suitable studs on the under side; see Fig. 171. This -method provides a means of easily removing and quickly replacing the -cushions when required for use. A space of 3 in., or a distance equal to -the thickness of the cushions, must be left at the sloping back, to -allow the seat to open properly. - -The nature of the locker is partly concealed by the rustic work of split -twigs that is nailed to the front. - -Next fix the lattice work between the finials and under the front plate. -The short struts on the front posts are more for effect than for any -real support. - -The roof is boarded on the inside, the work being carried on the rafters -as far as the collar ties, and continued flat on these. Moulding is -fixed in the angles formed between the rafters and ties, and a cornice -is fixed at the plates. The heels of the rafters and plates are also -boarded around, as shown in Fig. 169. - -The roof may be covered with thatch of wheat, straw, reeds, broom, or -heather, and the whole of the woodwork visible should be varnished. - -The summer-house illustrated by Fig. 172 is suited to a garden of -moderate size, one in which space is not so restricted as to necessitate -crowding the building close against a wall. This octagonal summer-house -has a continuous seat some 15 ft. long. From side to side each way it -measures 10 ft. Fig. 172 is an elevation of the front of the house. - -[Illustration: Fig. 173.--Ground Plan of Octagonal Summer house.] - -[Illustration: Fig. 174.--Section of Octagonal Summer-house at Y Z -(Fig. 173), showing Framework.] - -Its framework and the main part of it are of larch poles; -other woods are, however, used for minor purposes. The roof is of -thatch. In the arrangement of this building there is a certain -resemblance to a tent. It has a central pillar, A, not unlike a tent -pole, which sustains much of the weight of the roof. Being of first -importance, this pillar is somewhat larger than any of the other -timbers--say 6 in. in diameter near its bottom, and tapering as little -as may be. A rod of iron or wood rises from its top to form the centre -of the straw pinnacle seen crowning the roof in Fig. 172. This pillar -shows a height of 11 ft. 2 in. above ground, and it should be let 3 ft. -or more into the soil; for it will need to be firmly fixed, or it may be -forced out of the perpendicular during the erection of the roof; when -the roof timbers are once fixed in place, it will have little further -chance of moving. The diagram Fig. 173 is a ground plan, and Fig. 174 is -a section showing the timbers from the interior; both are drawn on a -scale of 1/4 in. to the foot. - -The eight collar-posts (B, Figs. 173 and 174) at the corners of the -octagon are of somewhat smaller stuff--say 4 in. They show 6 ft. above -ground, and should have 2 ft. below. It will be well to gas-tar all the -underground work. - -The ground plan of a building in this shape is readily laid out. The -space being levelled, a string is taken which has a loop at each end, -and is 5 ft. 2 in. long. With a stake driven through the loop at one end -as a centre, and with a stick passed through the loop at the other to -serve as the travelling leg of the compasses, a circle is struck 10 ft. -4 in. in diameter, and into this pegs are driven at equal intervals (4 -ft. apart) to mark the centres of the eight collar-posts. Whilst digging -the holes for the posts, these points are kept by drawing two straight -lines on the ground which intersect at the peg. - -The cross-pieces which rest on the collar-posts, and which serve as -wall-plates, are a trifle smaller stuff than the posts--say 3 in. Fig. -175 shows how they are cut to fit the tops of the posts, and nailed -there. In this building there are no mortise and tenon joints. On these -ends above the posts rest the lower ends of the eight main rafters, D, -the upper ends of which rest against and are nailed to the central -pillar. The eight intermediate rafters, E, rest at the bottom on the -middles of the side plates, and at top are cut to fit upon and between -the tops of the main rafters. - -[Illustration: Fig. 175.--Collar Posts and Ends of Wall Plates.] - -[Illustration: Fig. 176.--Timbers over Entrance of Octagonal -Summer-house.] - -The laths used are in this case in no way particular--any sticks will -do; they will not be seen, and under thatch there is no necessity that a -level surface should be formed by them, as for slates or tiles. They are -nailed 6 in. or 8 in. apart. - -The gable over the entrance is arranged as in Fig. 176. The laths, when -nailed on, will have to run over the little ridge formed by F, instead -of keeping the level, as on the other sides. This will cause no special -difficulties in the thatching. - -The walls are of larch poles sawn in half. To split a number of heavy -poles with the handsaw is tedious work, and it is better to get them -run through by the nearest steam saw. The quantity of half-stuff -required may be easily calculated; one of these sides will take about -five and a half 6-ft. lengths of 4-in. stuff. The tops of these -wall-pieces are sawn obliquely to fit against the round wall-plates to -which they are nailed. In their lower parts they are nailed to the lower -cross-pieces, G, G, G, Fig. 174. - -These latter will best be made of rather large stuff quartered, since -their upper sides on which the seat-boards rest should be level, as well -as their backs, which go against the wall-pieces. The middle -cross-pieces are of smaller half-stuff, and should be nailed to the -wall-pieces rather than that the wall-pieces should be nailed to them; -for they are in a conspicuous place, and nails driven through them and -clenched would be unsightly. - -The front supports of the seats are let into the ground some 6 in., and -rise 14-1/2 in. above the ground line. The seats should be cut from -1-in. board, and should be about 16-1/2 in. wide. - -In the two window sides of the octagon (see Figs. 177 and 172), the -space below the windows is filled with whole poles, their bottoms -resting on a sill let in level with the ground, and their tops nailed -into through a cross-piece of half-stuff (K, Fig. 177). The mullions and -transoms of the windows--mere sticks--are of small straight larch stuff, -but the ornamental filling in above is of crooked branches--oak bangles -by preference, though apple-wood would do very well. It often happens -that an old apple-tree is cut down, and at once condemned as firewood; -yet its stem may have grotesque knots, and its branches picturesque -contortions which would make it valuable for rustic work. Whenever -rustic building is contemplated, it is well that such wood should be -laid by; a single tree would supply all the small quantity of crooked -stuff that is required in the present instance. Even the interlaced -stems of ivy, when an old growth has covered a wall, have sometimes been -utilised to excellent effect. - -[Illustration: Fig. 177.--Window Side of Octagonal Summer-house.] - -It may be observed that any chinks between the pieces beneath the -windows, as well as in the walls generally, are most readily and -appropriately rendered wind-proof by neatly stuffing with moss. Fig. 177 -gives a full front elevation of one of the window sides (they being only -seen obliquely in Fig. 172), and it is on the 1/2-in. scale. - -Four stout crooked pieces are used as struts to support the table (drawn -to 1 in. scale in Figs. 178 and 179); 3/4-in. board will suffice for -the top of this table, and it will probably be cut from two widths. To -give proper strength to the ornamental border (seen in Fig. 179), a -second thickness of the board is attached below each corner, extending 3 -or 4 in. to each side, so as to allow each of the longer bits of split -rod to be fixed, as shown, with two brads. - -A really satisfactory material in which to finish the top of a rustic -table is not easily found; it must give a level surface, and at the same -time be in harmony with its surroundings. Board, planed or painted, -oilcloth, or any manufactured material, is felt to be out of place; -marble or slate looks cold and hard. Nothing that is absolutely level -satisfies the requirements; the best alternative is rustic mosaic. By -this is meant split rods of wood so bradded down as to form patterns. -For the present purpose, however, the mosaic must be kept more neat and -smooth than usual. Fig. 178 shows the top of the table thus treated. - -The rods most in favour for rustic mosaic are those of the hazel. They -are to be bought cheaply and abundantly when the undergrowth of woods is -cut. They have a smooth and pretty bark, and the useful size is from 3/4 -in. to 1-1/2 in. Sticks of other kinds of the same size can also be -used: birch and wild cherry may be named among those with smooth bark, -and wych elm and maple among those with rough; willow or withy, again, -is of most common growth, and exceedingly useful. In river-side -neighbourhoods it is often the cheapest and most plentiful of all woods. -For mosaic work, it is always peeled, for its bark is unattractive, and -its light colour when stripped makes it tell well in contrast to the -dark bark of other woods. If used, as it often is, for outdoor purposes -in garden carpentry, it should always be peeled. Country carpenters have -a saying that withy lasts twice as long without its bark as with it; -and in this there is much truth, for the loose bark holds the wet to the -wood and causes it to rot. To make it peel freely, it should be cut just -as the young leaves make their appearance. The like holds good with -other woods; but if it is desired that the bark should hold firmly, the -wood should be cut down in dead of winter, when all the sap is down. - -[Illustration: Figs. 178 and 179.--Plan and Elevation of Table for -Octagonal Summer-house.] - -The top of the table is supposed to be mainly composed of peeled withy. -The pattern contains only the double dark line bounding the star and the -single strip round the edge in hazel. So much white will not look amiss -in this place, and withy is easily worked. Hazel and most woods twist so -much in the grain that it is rarely safe to split them except with the -saw, but withy--in short lengths like these, at least--can be split with -a hatchet. - -In rough carpentry there is no more pretty or interesting work than -these mosaics. The backs of the seats (Fig. 180), and the seats -themselves (Fig. 181), are decorated in this way. On the seats -themselves, as on the table top, hazel and withy are contrasted, and -form a design in alternate triangles; the separating bands, it may be -noticed, have a light strip against the dark, and a dark strip against -the light, triangle. Along the edge of the seats one or two strips -merely are nailed lengthwise. In such a situation an ornamental edging -like that round the table would be too liable to be broken. It is -recommended that the back of the seats should be in dark bark-covered -woods only, for the mosaic in that position will look better without any -mixture of the light-coloured withy. - -The upper compartments of the sides with which the backs of those -sitting down will not come in contact may be more quickly and yet -pleasingly covered with sheets of bark. Elm bark is good for the -purpose. It may be peeled in large sheets from the trunks of trees -felled in spring, when the sap is rising; and whilst it is drying should -have bricks or stones laid on it to press it flat. When dried, it is -nailed to the walls, and any cracks which appear can be neatly filled -with moss. The space beneath the seats is also shown as roughly covered -with bark. - -[Illustration: Fig. 180.--Seat Side of Octagonal Summer-house.] - -The almost conical roof is thatched. No other covering is so pleasing as -thatch for a rustic building. Its colour and rough texture harmonise -well with the natural wood, and all its associations are of a rustic -character; no other covering so effectually excludes the summer heat, -and nowhere can one find a retreat so suggestive of coolness, quiet, -and repose, as under the low eaves of a thatched building. Thatch has, -it must be admitted, certain practical disadvantages--birds and winds -are apt to scatter fragments from it, and it needs renewing at -comparatively short intervals. The common saying is that a thatched roof -needs re-coating every ten years. Often, no doubt, this is near the -truth, yet really good work will frequently stand for almost twenty -years. The materials in use in this country are reeds, straw, and -stubble. Reeds make a strong thatch, but are not easily to be procured, -except in fenny districts. Stubble, which is the lower and stronger part -of the wheat stem, stands better than straw, which is its upper and -weaker portion; to last properly, however, stubble should be cut -immediately after harvest, and should not be left standing, as it -frequently is, till the spring, for then the winter rains, collecting in -its hollow stems, cause it to rot before it is cut. On small buildings -like summer-houses especially, stubble makes a much more compact and -sightly roof than straw. - -Thatching is not costly or difficult work. In agricultural districts a -load of stubble--sufficient to thatch three such buildings as the one -illustrated--costs 30s., and a thatcher expects the wages of a -first-class labourer only, not those of a mechanic. He needs an -assistant, whose business it is to straighten the material into -convenient bundles (called "yelvens"), and to supply him as he requires -them. If he is re-thatching an old building, he merely thrusts the ends -of his new material into the old thatch with a wooden spud; but if he is -covering a new roof he sews down his "yelvens" to the laths and rafters -with a huge needle and stout tarred string. He begins at the eaves, -laying as wide a breadth as he can conveniently reach on one side of his -ladder, this breadth being called a "stelch." He works upwards, each -new layer covering the tar-cord which secures that beneath it; and thus -he goes on till he has reached the ridge. - -In his second "stelch" he is careful to blend together its edge and the -edge of that already laid, so that no rain may find its way between -them; and in doing this completely lies much of the superiority of good -over bad thatching. When laid, the thatch is smoothed down and -straightened with a gigantic comb, like the head of a large rake, one -end being without teeth, and serving as a handle. In the present -instance, the tops of all the stelches meeting in a point are finished -and capped by the little bundle of thatching material forming the -pinnacle, which is tightly bound round the rod of wood or iron in its -centre. - -[Illustration: Fig. 181.--Mosaic Seats for Octagonal Summer-house.] - -It is usual to bind thatching down with at least two belts of buckles -and runners. In the summer-house (Fig. 172) two double belts are shown. -The buckles have some resemblance to ladies' hair-pins on a colossal -scale. They are made of slips of withy, twisted and doubled in their -middles and pointed at their ends; the runners are long straight slips -of the same. These latter are laid across the thatch, and the buckles, -being placed over them, are pushed tightly into it--their points being -driven upwards, that wet may not be let into the roof by them. The -short diagonal runners seen in the illustration crossing each other -between the horizontal lines are used in ornamental thatching only, and -are rather for appearance than for use. Lastly, the eaves are cut to -shape, and trimmed with paring-knife and shears. - -The roof looks most pretty and cosy within if lined with ling. The ling -is fixed in a way somewhat akin to thatching. A layer is placed along -the bottom opposite to the eaves, and secured by a strip of wood nailed -from rafter to rafter; the layer next above hides this strip, and so the -work is carried on to the apex, where a knot cut from an apple-tree -trunk, a bunch of fir-cones fastened together, or some such matter, -finishes the whole. In districts where ling is not to be had, gorse or -furze in short pieces may serve instead, but stout gloves are required -to handle it; or the ends of fir branches may do, if nothing better -offers. - -It is not always easy to decide on the best way of forming a floor. -Boards may look out of place. A pitching of pebbles is more in -character: it is dry and cleanly, and especially if some variety of -colour is obtainable, and the stones are arranged in some geometrical -design, it may add to the ornamental effect. Pebbles are not, however, -pleasing to the feet of those who wear thin shoes. Gravel, where it is -always dry, is apt to become dusty, and to disagree with ladies' -dresses. If, however, gravel should be used, perhaps the best plan to -prevent the rising of damp, and to obviate dust as far as possible, is -to asphalt it: on the foundation of broken stones and a layer of coarse -gravel to put a course of asphalt or of ordinary gas tar, and on this to -sift enough fine _washed_ gravel to hide it. Yet a wood pavement of -small larch poles, cut into 5-or 6-in. billets, and pitched with some -attention to geometrical arrangement, will make the most dry and -comfortable of floors, and one which will not harmonise badly with any -of the decorative work of our summer-house. - -The octagonal house illustrated by Fig. 182 is made up of varnished -rustic work. The saplings and twigs should be as straight and as regular -as possible, and divested of their bark. - -[Illustration: Fig. 182.--Octagonal Summer-house with Three Gables.] - - -[Illustration: Fig. 184.--Vertical Section of Octagonal Summer-house -through Lower Part of Door and Sill.] - -[Illustration: Fig. 183.--Vertical Section of Octagonal Summer-house -through Side Casement.] - -[Illustration: Figs. 185 and 186.--Elevation and Plan of Roof for Octagonal -Summer-house.] - -The eight posts are 4 in. in diameter by 6 ft. 8 in. long. The short -sill pieces are also 4 in. in diameter, while the middle rails are 3-1/2 -in. in diameter, and the plate is 3 in. by 4-1/2 in. The floor and roof -are constructed from ordinary scantlings. - -The posts form a circle 6 ft. 6 in. in diameter. They are spaced about 2 -ft. 3 in. apart, except the door-posts, which are 2 ft. 7 in. centres. -Flats may be worked on the posts for the better fitting of the door, -panels, and casements, and the top edge of the sill is also planed flat -to receive the floorboards, and a rebate is formed for the 5/8-in. -matchboard (see Fig. 183). - -The sill and middle rails are scribed and stub-tenoned to the posts. The -plate is halved, dowelled, and nailed to the posts. The joists are 2 in. -by 4 in., and are notched to the sills (Fig. 184) and covered with 1-in. -floorboards. - -[Illustration: Fig. 187.--Securing Glass to Rustic Casement.] - -The roof is formed with three gables, four being deemed unnecessary, as -a summer-house is generally fixed with its back to a shrubbery. Eight -hip rafters are required, and by fixing the heels of each pair of -rafters on the sides of the plate marked 1, 2, 3, and 4 (see Fig. 185) -more space is acquired for the gables. The ridges and valley-pieces of -the gables are attached to a wide batten screwed to the under side of -the hip rafters (see Figs. 185 and 186). Some of the small battens are -omitted from Fig. 185 to give a better view of the gables, etc. - -[Illustration: Fig. 188.--Half Front and Half Back View of Door for -Octagonal Summer-house.] - -[Illustration: Fig. 189.--Section of Door for Octagonal Summer-house.] - -The roof-covering is generally wheat straw, with a top dressing of -either broom or heather. The dark colour of the two latter materials -harmonises much better with a varnished house than does a covering -wholly of straw. The four lower panels are filled in with matchboarding, -which is carried right up to the plate in the three back divisions. The -rustic work, excepting the back panels, is then fitted and nailed. - -[Illustration: Fig. 190.--Part Plan of Octagonal Summer-house.] - -There are four casement windows, which open outward. A section of -casement and frame enlarged is shown in Fig. 187. A shallow rebate is -formed to receive the leaded lights, which are retained in position with -split bamboo fixed with round-headed brass screws. - -[Illustration: Fig. 191.--Horizontal Section through Door Posts.] - -The door (Figs. 188 and 189) is 6 ft. 1 in. by 2 ft. 3 in. The rustic -work is overlaid on the frame of the door. The centre of the -diamond-shaped panel is filled with cork. The top panel is glazed with -stained glass. Three butts and a rim lock are fitted on the inside of -the door, and the lower panel is filled with matchboarding. - -[Illustration: Fig. 192.--Part Section of Side Panel.] - -Some further illustrations may be noted. Fig. 190 is a part plan of the -octagonal summer-house; Fig. 191, horizontal section through door-posts; -Fig. 192, part section of a side panel; Fig. 193, method of fixing plate -to posts; and Fig. 194, finial. - -[Illustration: Fig. 193.--Fixing Plate to Posts.] - -[Illustration: Fig. 194.--Finial.] - -A seat 13 in. wide, supported on wide battens, which in turn rest on -shaped brackets, is fixed at each angle. A sloping back (see Fig. 183) -is fitted, which adds to the general comfort. The decoration of the -inside should now receive attention. The floor may be covered with -linoleum, the seats carpeted or cushioned. The sloping backs of the -seats and the walls will look well if covered with Indian matting or -Japanese leather paper. Split cane or bamboo may be used with good -effect at the joints or angles. The under side of the roof or ceiling -should be first covered by stretching canvas across the rafters, and to -this is attached the decorative material. - -The summer-house stands on stone slabs raised about 1 in. above the -ground. The lower ends of the posts are dressed with pitch, or are stood -on sheet lead. The triangular spaces in the gables can be made to open -inwards if desired, and used for ventilation. - - - - -INDEX. - - - Anchoring Foot-bridges, 96 - - Armchair, 40, 41 - - Aviary, 83-91 - ----, Bottom, 86 - ----, Perches for, 83, 85 - ----, Sliding Tray for, 90 - ----, Wiring for, 87, 88 - ----, Wood for, 83 - - - "Bangles," 30 - - Bending Wood with Spanish Windlass, 22 - - Boxes, Window, 19-21 - - Bracket for Wall, 11, 12 - - - Canopied Garden Seat, 47-51 - - Canopy for Garden Retreat, 123, 125 - ---- for Swing, 77-82 - - Carriage Entrance, 63-65 - - Chair, Arm, 40, 41 - - Chairs and Seats, 40-51 - - Collar-posts, 114, 115, 140 - - Cottage Porch, 76 - - - Door of Tool House, 110 - - - Easel, Mitred Joint for, 13 - ----, for Photographs, 13-16 - ----, Stain for, 15, 16 - - Elevated Foot-bridges, 97 - - Entrance, Carriage, 63-65 - - - Fenced Seat for Swing, 82 - - Fences, 57 - - Fire-screen, 13 - - Flower-holder, Tripod, 16 - - Flower-pot Stand, 27, 28, 35 - - Foot-bridges, 92 - ----, Anchoring, 96 - ----, Elevated, 97 - ----, Girders for, 94, 95 - - - Gables to Octagonal Summer-house, 141, 150-158 - - Garden Gate, 52-56, 62 - ---- Plant Tub, 31, 32 - ---- Retreat, 123-125 - ---- Seat with Canopy, 47-51 - ---- Seats, 41-51 - ---- Snuggery, 112-123 - ---- ----, Collar-posts for, 114 - ---- ----, Door for, 116, 117 - ---- ----, Joists for, 114 - ---- ----, Pillars, Caps for, 120 - ---- ----, Rafters for, 116 - ---- ----, Roof, Boarding, 120 - ---- ---- ----, Coverings for, 121, 122 - ---- ----, Rustic Pillars of, 115, 120 - ---- ----, Walls, Non-conducting, 117 - - Garden, Tool House for (see Tool House) - ---- Trellis with Seats and Gate, 58-62 - - Gates and Fences, 52-65 - - Girders for Rustic Footbridges, 94, 95 - - Grape Culture, Glazed Verandah for, 104 - - - Hall Stand, 16-18 - - Hazel Rods for Rustic Mosaic Work, 144 - - Hexagonal Table, 38, 39 - ---- Vase, 29, 30 - - House, Tool, Door for, 110 - ----, ----, Doorposts for, 109 - ----, ----, Folding Seat for, 111, 112 - ----, ----, Pilaster for, 110 - ----, ----, Plan of, 108, 109 - ----, ----, "Rough Planks" for, 106 - - - Joint, Mitred, 13 - - Joists for Garden Snuggery, 114 - - - Lean-to Summer-house, 126-134 - ---- ---- ----, Lining for Walls of, 129 - ---- ---- ----, Mosaic Work for Walls of, 130 - ---- ---- ----, Roof of, 130 - - Lining Roof with Ling, 150 - ---- Summer-house Walls, 129 - - - Mitred Joint, 13 - - Mosaic Work, 144-146 - ---- ----, Hazel Rods for, 144 - ---- ----, Withy for, 146 - ---- ----, for Summer-house Walls, 130 - - - Octagonal Summer-house, 138-158 - ---- ---- ----, Collar-posts for, 140 - ---- ---- ----, Gable for, 141 - ---- ---- ----, Ground Plan of, 140 - ---- ---- ----, Roof for, 147 - ---- ---- ----, Table for, 143 - ---- ---- ----, Thatched, 138-150 - ---- ---- ----, Three-gabled, 150-158 - ---- ---- ----, Walls for, 141 - - - Pedestal for Sundial, 35 - - Pilaster for Tool House, 110 - - Pillars of Garden Snuggery, 115, 120 - - Plant Stand, Rectangular, 34 - ---- Tub for Garden, 31, 32 - ---- Vase, Large, 30, 31 - ---- ----, Ornamental, 33, 34 - - Porches, 71-76 - - - Rectangular Garden Plant Stand, 34 - - Retreat, Garden, 123-125 - - Roof for Garden Snuggery, 120-122 - ---- for Lean-to Summerhouse, 130 - ----, Materials for, 102 - ---- for Tennis Lawn Shelter, 138 - ---- of Tool House, 110 - ---- for Verandah, 100 - - Rosery Walk, 66-70 - - "Rough Planks" for Tool House, 106 - - - Seats and Chairs, 40-51 - - Shelter for Tennis Lawn, 135 - - "Slabs," Fixing, 107, 108 - - Snuggery, Garden, 112-123 - ----, ----, Collar-posts for 114, 115 - ----, ----, Door for, 116, 117 - ----, ----, Joists for, 114 - ----, ----, Pillars for, 120 - ----, ----, Rafters for, 116 - ----, ----, Roof for, 120-122 - ----, ----, ---- Coverings for, 121, 122 - ----, ----, Rustic Pillars of, 115 - ----, ----, Walls of, 117 - - Spanish Windlass for Bending Wood, 22 - - Stain for Easel, 15, 16 - - Stand, Flower, 27, 28 - ----, Flower-pot, in imitation of Bamboo, 35 - ----, Hall, 16-18 - ----, Rectangular Plant, 34 - - "Stelch" for Thatching, 148 - - Stool, 18, 19 - - Summer-house, Lean-to, 126-134 - ---- ----, ----, Lining for Walls, 129 - ---- ----, ----, Mosaic Work for Walls of, 130 - ---- ----, ----, Roof of, 130 - ---- ----, Octagonal, 138-158 - ---- ----, ----, Collar-posts for, 140 - ---- ----, ----, Floor for, 150 - ---- ----, ----, Gable for, 141 - ---- ----, ----, Ground Plan of, 140 - ---- ----, ----, Roof for, 147 - - Summer-house, Octagonal, Table for, 143, 144-147 - ---- ----, ----, Thatched Roof of, 147 - ---- ----, ----, with Three Gables, 150-158 - ---- ----, ----, Walls for, 141 - ---- ----, ----, Windows for, 142 - ---- ----, Thatched Octagonal, 138-150 - - Swing, Canopy for, 77-82 - ----, Fenced Seat for, 82 - - - Table for Octagonal Summer-house, 143-147 - ----, Hexagon, 38, 39 - ----, Square, 36-38 - - Tables, 36-39 - - Tennis Lawn Shelter, 135-138 - ---- ---- ----, Roof for, 138 - - Thatched Octagonal Summer-house, 138-150 - - Thatching, Cost of, 148 - ----, "Stelch," 148 - ----, Roof of Octagonal Summer-house, 147-150 - ----, "Yelvens," 148 - - Tool House, 106-112 - ---- ----, Door, 110 - ---- ----, Doorposts, 109, 110 - ---- ----, Folding Seat for, 111, 112 - ---- ----, Pilaster, 110 - ---- ----, Roof, 110 - ---- ----, "Rough Planks" for, 106 - - Trellis, Garden, with Seats and Gate, 58-62 - - - Vase, Hexagonal, 29, 30 - ----, Plant, 30, 31, 33, 34 - ----, Square, 28, 29 - ----, on Tripod Stand, 22-27 - - Verandahs, 98-105 - ----, for Grape Culture, 104 - ----, Open, 104 - ----, Posts Supporting, 98, 99 - ----, Rafters for, 100 - ----, Roof for, 100 - ----, ---- Materials for, 102 - - - Walk, Rosery, 66-70 - - Wall Bracket, 10, 11 - - Windlass, Spanish, 22 - - Window Boxes, 19-21 - - Wiring Aviary, 87, 88 - - Withy for Rustic Mosaic Work, 144 - - Wood Bending with Spanish Windlass, 22 - ---- for Rustic Work, 9 - - - "Yelvens" in Thatching, 148 - - - -PRINTED BY CASSELL AND COMPANY, LTD., LUDGATE HILL, LONDON, E.C. - - - - - - -End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Rustic Carpentry, by Paul N. 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