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| author | Roger Frank <rfrank@pglaf.org> | 2025-10-14 18:33:35 -0700 |
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| committer | Roger Frank <rfrank@pglaf.org> | 2025-10-14 18:33:35 -0700 |
| commit | 65e61057f66d3313433e3c1b429efbf8b7fc0807 (patch) | |
| tree | 07d2740fea36d176a385a62289d83cad918d0213 /41639-h | |
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diff --git a/41639-h/41639-h.htm b/41639-h/41639-h.htm new file mode 100644 index 0000000..c6db5da --- /dev/null +++ b/41639-h/41639-h.htm @@ -0,0 +1,16131 @@ +<!DOCTYPE html + PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD XHTML 1.0 Strict//EN" + "http://www.w3.org/TR/xhtml1/DTD/xhtml1-strict.dtd"> +<html xmlns="http://www.w3.org/1999/xhtml" xml:lang="en" lang="en"> +<head> +<meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html; charset=US-ASCII" /> +<title>Reminiscences of Travel in Australia, America, and Egypt, by Richard Tangye</title> + <style type="text/css"> +/*<![CDATA[ XML blockout */ +<!-- + P { margin-top: .75em; + margin-bottom: .75em; + } + P.gutsumm { margin-left: 5%;} + P.poetry {margin-left: 3%; } + .GutSmall { font-size: 0.7em; } + H1, H2 { + text-align: center; + margin-top: 2em; + margin-bottom: 2em; + } + H3, H4, H5 { + text-align: center; + margin-top: 1em; + margin-bottom: 1em; + } + BODY{margin-left: 10%; + margin-right: 10%; + } + table { border-collapse: collapse; } +table {margin-left:auto; margin-right:auto;} + td { vertical-align: top; border: 1px solid black;} + td p { margin: 0.2em; } + .blkquot {margin-left: 4em; margin-right: 4em;} /* block indent */ + + .smcap {font-variant: small-caps;} + + .pagenum {position: absolute; + left: 92%; + font-size: small; + text-align: right; + font-weight: normal; + color: gray; + } + img { border: none; } + img.dc { float: left; width: 50px; height: 50px; } + p.gutindent { margin-left: 2em; } + div.gapspace { height: 0.8em; } + div.gapline { height: 0.8em; width: 100%; border-top: 1px solid;} + div.gapmediumline { height: 0.3em; width: 40%; margin-left:30%; + border-top: 1px solid; } + div.gapmediumdoubleline { height: 0.3em; width: 40%; margin-left:30%; + border-top: 1px solid; border-bottom: 1px solid;} + div.gapshortdoubleline { height: 0.3em; width: 20%; + margin-left: 40%; border-top: 1px solid; + border-bottom: 1px solid; } + div.gapdoubleline { height: 0.3em; width: 50%; + margin-left: 25%; border-top: 1px solid; + border-bottom: 1px solid;} + div.gapshortline { height: 0.3em; width: 20%; margin-left:40%; + border-top: 1px solid; } + .citation {vertical-align: super; + font-size: .8em; + text-decoration: none;} + img.floatleft { float: left; + margin-right: 1em; + margin-top: 0.5em; margin-bottom: 0.5em; } + img.floatright { float: right; + margin-left: 1em; margin-top: 0.5em; + margin-bottom: 0.5em; } + img.clearcenter {display: block; + margin-left: auto; + margin-right: auto; margin-top: 0.5em; + margin-bottom: 0.5em} + --> + /* XML end ]]>*/ + </style> +</head> +<body> +<pre> + +The Project Gutenberg eBook, Reminiscences of Travel in Australia, +America, and Egypt, by Richard Tangye + + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + + + + +Title: Reminiscences of Travel in Australia, America, and Egypt + + +Author: Richard Tangye + + + +Release Date: December 16, 2012 [eBook #41639] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ISO-646-US (US-ASCII) + + +***START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK REMINISCENCES OF TRAVEL IN +AUSTRALIA, AMERICA, AND EGYPT*** +</pre> +<p>This ebook was transcribed by Les Bowler.</p> +<p style="text-align: center"> +<a href="images/fp.jpg"> +<img alt= +"Frontispiece. Richard Tangye" +title= +"Frontispiece. Richard Tangye" +src="images/fp.jpg" /> +</a></p> +<h1>REMINISCENCES<br /> +<span class="GutSmall">OF</span><br /> +TRAVEL<br /> +<span class="GutSmall">IN</span><br /> +<span class="smcap">Australia</span>, <span +class="smcap">America</span>, <span class="smcap">and +Egypt</span>.</h1> +<p style="text-align: center"> +<a href="images/title.jpg"> +<img alt= +"Vignette" +title= +"Vignette" +src="images/title.jpg" /> +</a></p> +<p style="text-align: center">BY<br /> +RICHARD TANGYE.</p> +<p style="text-align: center"><i>WITH ILLUSTRATIONS BY E. C. +MOUNTFORT</i>.</p> +<p style="text-align: center">London:<br /> +SAMPSON LOW, MARSTON, SEARLE, AND RIVINGTON.<br /> +CROWN BUILDINGS, 188, FLEET STREET.</p> +<p style="text-align: center">1883.</p> +<p style="text-align: center">(<i>All rights reserved</i>.)</p> +<div class="gapspace"> </div> +<p style="text-align: center"><a name="pageiv"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. iv</span><span class="GutSmall">PRINTED +BY</span></p> +<p style="text-align: center"><span class="GutSmall">WRIGHT, +DAIN, PEYTON, AND CO.,</span></p> +<p style="text-align: center"><span class="GutSmall">AT THE +HERALD PRESS, BIRMINGHAM.</span></p> +<div class="gapspace"> </div> +<p><a name="pagev"></a><span class="pagenum">p. v</span>Having +made several voyages to Australia, I have often been asked how I +managed to relieve the monotony of so long a period on the +water. I have never felt this monotony, simply because on +each occasion I have set myself something to do.</p> +<p>In Mr. Trevelyan’s “Life of Lord Macaulay” +it is stated that when returning from India, that statesman set +himself the task of mastering the German language, and +accomplished it during the voyage. I did not attempt +anything so ambitious, but during my last voyage I occupied the +time in writing the following pages; and as they were written +under many difficulties, I feel I may confidently rely upon the +indulgence of those who may do me the honour of reading them.</p> +<p style="text-align: right">R. T.</p> +<p><i>Gilbertstone</i>, <i>1883</i>.</p> +<h2><a name="pagevii"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +vii</span>CONTENTS.</h2> +<p style="text-align: center"> +<a href="images/pvii.jpg"> +<img alt= +"The Rabbit and the Thistle" +title= +"The Rabbit and the Thistle" +src="images/pvii.jpg" /> +</a></p> +<table> +<tr> +<td><p> </p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span +class="GutSmall">PAGE.</span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p><span class="smcap">Chapter</span> I.—<i>At +Sea</i>:—Early Troubles—Cabin’d, Cribb’d, +Confin’d—Travelling Companions—“Ordered +Abroad by the Doctor”—“In the Bay o’ +Biscay O”—Ship Stewards—Racing under +Difficulties—A Selfish Amusement—Musical +Discords—The Ship’s Newspaper—Our Ship goes too +Fast—Why Ship Captains are Tories—Ixion goes +Mad—Burial at Sea—The Parson “quite at +Sea”—A Congregation Guaranteed—Look Out for +Sharks!—“Let the Soup pass, Sir”—The +“Scarlet Lady.”</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page1">1</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p><span class="smcap">Chapter</span> II.—<i>At +Sea</i>:—“Working off the Dead +Horse”—“Poor Old Man!”—“May +your Shadow never Grow Less!”—The “Blatant +Beast”—The “Generous” Gambler—A +Fiery Celt—The “Classic” +Dolphin—“Get your Letters Ready”—“A +Man of Peace now”—Mixing his Degrees—Good +enough for the Colonies!—“Now Fridolin was a Pious +Youth”—A Bootless Errand—Cross +Signals—Tristan d’Acunha—A Parson +Wanted—“The Rolling Forties”—A Hot +January Morning.</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page21">21</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p><a name="pageviii"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +viii</span><span class="smcap">Chapter</span> III.—<i>In +Victoria</i>:—The Black Death in +Melbourne—Melbourne—Education—A Caustic +Smile—“All Work and no Play”—“A New +Way to Pay Old Debts”—“Happy Land” in +Victoria—“Hush! prohibited”—An Opening +for “Gentlemen”—“Hallelujah +Claim”—The Black Spur—A +“Soafler”—Comforting the Widow—Hard +Fare—Pioneering—Lovely Marysville—The Five +Deadly Poisons—Back to Melbourne.</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page40">40</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p><span class="smcap">Chapter</span> IV.—<i>In +Tasmania</i>:—Cologn–ial +Smells—Launceston—A Tonsorial Palace—Harvest in +February—The Land of Snakes—Der Dichter +spricht—“The Dangers of the +Seas”—“Sweet Vale of Avoca”—A +Charming Village—Where’s Falmouth?—A Lonely +Burying-place—A Narrow +Escape—Snakes!—“Scotched, but not +Killed”—“Acres many, People +few”—The Rabbit and the Thistle—Breaking the +Pledge—Hobart the Beautiful—Jericho to Jerusalem via +Bagdad—Farewell, Tasmania.</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page60">60</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p><span class="smcap">Chapter</span> V.—<i>In New +South Wales</i>:—Off to Sydney—“What d’ye +think of our Harbour?”—A “Southerly +Buster”—Oysters on Trees—A rather particular +Couple—Mount Victoria—A Tremendous Leap—A +wicked Parrot—“Bail up”—The Laughing +Jackass—Let Sleeping Bull-dogs Lie—An Election in +Sydney—Beer and Bible—Through Wagga-Wagga—In +the Bush—Track-making—Sighing for Old +England—“Tommy”—Albury and Wodonga, a +contrast—The Bush-rangers.</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page80">80</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p><span class="smcap">Chapter</span> VI.—<i>In +Australia</i>:—Victoria, Protection—The Dog +subsisting on its own Tail—Cabby over-rides the +Tramway—His Profit was not “quite +enough”—Protection with a +Vengeance—“Quite right to Cheat the +Government”—Free Trade, New South Wales—A +Genuine “Native Industry”—How Population is +attracted—A Prosperous Colony—Demand for Agricultural +Labourers—“Young Australia.”</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page101">101</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p><a name="pageix"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +ix</span><span class="smcap">Chapter</span> VII.—<i>On the +Pacific</i>:—Homeward Bound—Ten Months’ +Drought—Auckland—Fiji—Kandavu Harbour—A +Fearful Voice—Sharks and Dark Skins—Dropping a +Day—A Colonial Doctor—Man +Overboard—Honolulu—A Square Meal—Dressmaking in +Honolulu—A “Brownie”—“Yes, for a +Dollar”—A Plague of Centipedes—A Bilious +“Down-Easter”—Jefferson Brick, +Junior—“Mister”—“A Personal +Favour!”—Through “The Golden +Gate”—Earning a Cent anyway.</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page113">113</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p><span class="smcap">Chapter</span> VIII.—<i>In +America</i>:—San Francisco—The Palace +Hotel—Chinese Washermen—The National +Habit—Flats and Sharps—Qualifications for a State +Governor—John Chinaman in California—The Missing +Link—Little Min-ne, a Chinese Bride—Am claimed as a +Chinaman—Pacific Sea-Lions—The last of +“Mister”—Across America—A Magnificent +Country—The Noble Red Man—A Long Arm and Quick +Eye—John Bright—A Tremendous Crash—The +Trapper’s Story—How Taurus “Meets the +Train”—The Alkali Plains—Salt Lake +City—“I guess I’ll take your +Gold”—Rock Groups—“No, Sah!” said +Sambo.</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page135">135</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p><span class="smcap">Chapter</span> IX.—<i>In +America</i>:—“Eat and be +satisfied”—Chicago—Niagara—Ruthless +Desecration—“He must raise his +Salary”—The “American Language”—The +Hudson—The Celestial Harmonies—A Dealer in +Justice—“Rich, but +Honest”—“Dear” America—Baggage +Arrangements—Philadelphia—The Centennial +Exhibition—An Argument for Protection—Artisans’ +Wages and Holidays—Protection +doomed—Cadgers—Freedom, for Tongue and +Foot—Something hot!</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page160">160</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p><a name="pagex"></a><span class="pagenum">p. x</span><span +class="smcap">Chapter</span> X.—<i>In +Egypt</i>:—Suez—Hassan—Donkeys for +Nine—The Languishing +Nobleman—Backsheesh—Painting the Lily—Forced +Labour, a painful Sight—Agriculture <i>à la</i> +Adam—School Interrupted—In the Bazaars—The +Jewellers—A Bridal Party—Sultan Hassan—Familiar +Devils—Up the Great Pyramid—The Heaven-sent +Stick—A Wash and a Shave—To Sakkara—A Great +City—At Sakkara—Tomb of the Sacred Bulls—The +Tomb of a High Priest—A Graphic Biograph—The Eternal +Backsheesh—A Camelcade.</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page181">181</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p><span class="smcap">Chapter</span> XI.—<i>In +Egypt</i>:—Pious Orgies—Howlers and +Dancers—Miss Whateley’s Schools—“She only +steals the Eggs now!”—In Shubra Avenue—A Useful +Animal—A Morning Ride—Sultan Selim—“Sir, +I am a Christian”—A Holy Fakir—A Statue four +thousand years old—Irrigation—Venerable +Orphans—Home to Vote.</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page209">209</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p><span class="smcap">Chapter</span> XII.—<i>In +Egypt</i>;—Port +Said—Hawkers—Bohemiennes—Marines—The last +Unmarried Lady—The Harbour—A discerning young +Arab—The Red Ribbon Army—“Once a Member, always +a Member”—The Spider—“One must be +civ-il!”—Our Blue Jackets.</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page226">226</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p><span class="smcap">Chapter</span> XIII.—<i>The Suez +Canal</i>:—Arabi in Exile—A ’cute +Governor—The French outwitted—“Thomas Cook and +Son”—A Black-Guard—Tel-el-Kebir—The Land +of Goshen—The Suez Canal—Lord +Palmerston—Immense Traffic—Lake +Timsah—Predictions—Red Tape—Absurd +Restrictions—Lesseps’ Position—A +Suggestion—The Dual Control—Arabi Bey—Mutinous +Conduct—Irregular Court-Martial—How Arabi recruited +his Army—“L’etat c’est moi.”</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page238">238</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p><a name="pagexi"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +xi</span><span class="smcap">Chapter</span> +XIV.—<i>Alexandria</i>:—Ras-el-Tin—The +Forts—A Courageous Merchant—Alexandria in +Ruins—Alexandria not +Bombarded—Anglo-Indians—Brindisi—Quarantine.</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page260">260</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>INDEX.</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page269">269</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +</table> +<h2><a name="pagexiii"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +xiii</span>LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.</h2> +<table> +<tr> +<td><p> </p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span +class="GutSmall">PAGE</span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p><span class="smcap">Portrait</span></p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right">Frontispiece</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p><span class="smcap">Vignette</span></p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right">Title</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p><span class="smcap">Rabbit and Thistle</span></p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#pagevii">vii</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p><span class="smcap">Terra Firma</span></p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page1">1</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p><span class="smcap">Teneriffe</span></p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page7">7</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p><span class="smcap">The Sports</span></p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page8">8</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p><span class="smcap">The Captain</span></p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page11">11</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p><span class="smcap">Ascension</span></p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page17">17</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p><span class="smcap">Crossing the Line. Why, +don’t you see it?</span></p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page19">19</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p><span class="smcap">The Baby Hippopotamus at +Play</span></p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page21">21</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p><span class="smcap">Burying the Dead Horse</span></p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page23">23</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p><span class="smcap">The Classic Dolphin</span></p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page28">28</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p><span class="smcap">A Colonial Parson</span></p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page31">31</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p><span class="smcap">In the Tropics</span></p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page40">40</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p><span class="smcap">Gold Mine</span></p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page49">49</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p><span class="smcap">A Big Tree</span></p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page52">52</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p><span class="smcap">On the Black Spur</span></p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page56">56</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p><span class="smcap">The Lyre Bird</span></p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page59">59</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p><span class="smcap">The Doctor Contemplates—a +Poem</span></p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page64">64</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p><span class="smcap">Avoca</span></p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page67">67</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p><span class="smcap">St. Mary’s</span></p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page68">68</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p><span class="smcap">Falmouth Hotel</span></p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page69">69</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p><span class="smcap">Burial Place</span></p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page70">70</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p><span class="smcap">Summit of Mount Wellington</span></p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page76">76</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p><span class="smcap">View in Hobart Gardens</span></p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page77">77</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p><span class="smcap">Our Waiter</span></p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page79">79</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p><span class="smcap">Sydney Harbour</span></p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page80">80</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p><span class="smcap">Cottage at Mount Victoria</span></p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page86">86</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p><span class="smcap">Weatherboard Falls</span></p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page87">87</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p><span class="smcap">Descent to Hartley Vale</span></p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page88">88</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p><span class="smcap">The Laughing Jackass</span></p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page90">90</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p><span class="smcap">The Author Sketching</span></p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page91">91</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p><span class="smcap">A Bullock-Team</span></p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page94">94</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p><span class="smcap">A Bush Hut</span></p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page95">95</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p><span class="smcap">An Up-country Town</span></p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page98">98</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p><a name="pagexiv"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +xiv</span><span class="smcap">The Platypus</span></p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page112">112</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p><span class="smcap">A Fijian</span></p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page117">117</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p><span class="smcap">The King’s Sister</span></p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page127">127</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p><span class="smcap">The Chinaman</span></p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page142">142</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p><span class="smcap">Little Min-ne</span></p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page143">143</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p><span class="smcap">Seal Rocks, San Francisco</span></p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page145">145</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p><span class="smcap">The last of +“Mister”</span></p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page146">146</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p><span class="smcap">The Eucalyptus</span></p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page148">148</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p><span class="smcap">Salt Lake</span></p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page155">155</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p><span class="smcap">Monument Rock</span></p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page158">158</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p><span class="smcap">The Devil’s Slide</span></p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page159">159</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p><span class="smcap">Under the Falls, Niagara</span></p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page163">163</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p><span class="smcap">The Pallisades, Hudson +River</span></p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page166">166</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p><span class="smcap">John Scales, Justice of the +Peace</span></p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page168">168</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p><span class="smcap">A Dragoman</span></p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page182">182</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p><span class="smcap">A Donkey Boy</span></p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page184">184</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p><span class="smcap">The “Orient”</span></p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page186">186</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p><span class="smcap">The Schoolmaster +“abroad”</span></p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page189">189</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p><span class="smcap">A “Peep”</span></p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page190">190</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p><span class="smcap">“Bery Cheap, +Sah!”</span></p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page191">191</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p><span class="smcap">The Mosque of Sultan Hassan</span></p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page193">193</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p><span class="smcap">Ascending the Great Pyramid</span></p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page197">197</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p><span class="smcap">View on the Nile</span></p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page198">198</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p><span class="smcap">The Sphinx</span></p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page199">199</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p><span class="smcap">A Wash and a Shave</span></p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page201">201</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p><span class="smcap">The Serapeum, Sakkara</span></p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page204">204</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p><span class="smcap">Bas-relief, Tomb of Tih</span></p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page206">206</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p><span class="smcap">A Camelcade</span></p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page208">208</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p><span class="smcap">Prayers in the Desert</span></p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page209">209</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p><span class="smcap">A Runner, or Sais</span></p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page212">212</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p><span class="smcap">In Shubra Avenue</span></p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page214">214</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p><span class="smcap">Water Carriers</span></p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page215">215</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p><span class="smcap">The Tombs of the Khalifs</span></p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page218">218</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p><span class="smcap">A Street in Bûlak</span></p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page219">219</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p><span class="smcap">A Holy Fakir</span></p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page222">222</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p><span class="smcap">A Wrecked Ship of the +Desert</span></p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page223">223</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p><span class="smcap">Au Revoir!</span></p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page225">225</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p><span class="smcap">In the Suez Canal</span></p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page226">226</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p><span class="smcap">A Feather Merchant</span></p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page227">227</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p><span class="smcap">Cetewayo Disguised as a +Gentleman</span></p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page236">236</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p><span class="smcap">Adenese Women</span></p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page240">240</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p><span class="smcap">A Familiar Face</span></p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page261">261</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p><span class="smcap">The End</span></p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page268">268</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +</table> +<h2><a name="page1"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 1</span>CHAPTER +I.</h2> +<p style="text-align: center"> +<a href="images/p1.jpg"> +<img alt= +"Terra Firma" +title= +"Terra Firma" +src="images/p1.jpg" /> +</a></p> +<p>It is commonly supposed by landsmen that the perils of ocean +travelling are much greater than those encountered upon +land. For my own part, I believe that, once on the open +sea, there is no pleasanter or safer mode of locomotion than is +to be found in a well-appointed sailing ship or steamer. I +certainly was in much greater danger of being drowned while +travelling on the railway between Bristol and Plymouth upon one +occasion than I have ever known myself to be while on board ship. +The autumn had been exceedingly wet, and the low-lying districts +in Somersetshire had become flooded, causing the railway to be +completely submerged for a distance of about three miles. +The water reached to the floors of the railway carriages, while +the locomotive in its progress made a great wave in front of <a +name="page2"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 2</span>the +train. The wheels of the locomotive were 8ft. 10in. in +height, and the fire-box was 6ft. above the ground. Boats +accompanied the train on either side during its passage through +the water. Certainly I have never felt in so much danger in +the 60,000 miles of ocean travelling which I have had since +then. Not that there are no dangers to be met with on the +water, as I found to my alarm before I had fairly commenced my +last voyage.</p> +<p>Our vessel lay three miles off the Hoe, at Plymouth, and we +had engaged a large sailing boat to take us on board. When +we had got half way to the ship, and had lost the shelter of the +land, a fierce squall struck the sail and turned the boat over on +its side, throwing us into a confused heap on its bottom. +The boatman tried to lower the sail, but having tied it in a fast +knot he could not do so, and had no means of cutting the +rope. The rain came down pitilessly all the time, and the +waves dashed over us, drenching us to the skin, darkness coming +on in the meantime. For a few moments we almost gave +ourselves up as lost, but fortunately the violence of the wind +lessened, the boat righted itself, and we got alongside our ship, +but were unable in the darkness and the rush of the water and the +noise of the wind and rain to make ourselves heard. My +companion and I had to climb up the rope-ladder attached to the +ship, and to scramble over its side as best we could, in the +confusion altogether forgetting to take leave of our friends who +were in the boat below, and who were lost to sight the instant we +got on to the deck.</p> +<p>On entering the saloon the contrast was very great. The +big ship riding at anchor was as steady as the land <a +name="page3"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 3</span>we had just +left. The saloon was brilliantly lighted; and the +passengers who had joined the ship at Gravesend were sitting +round the table engaged in various occupations; some were reading +or writing, while others were playing at whist, or were engaged +in conversation. Being new arrivals, there was considerable +curiosity to see which cabin we should call our own.</p> +<p>To a man taking his first voyage the phrase +“cabin’d, cribb’d, confin’d” is at +once understood as he surveys the cabin, a portion of which is to +be his home for a month or two. The first feeling is that +it will be impossible to bestow all his belongings in the limited +space at his disposal, but before he has been long on board +things settle down into their places, and he almost begins to +wonder what he shall do with all the room.</p> +<p>The first night on board ship is generally one of great +confusion. The passengers seem to be in everybody’s +way; but immediately after leaving port the baggage is stowed +away, the purser allots the seats at table, and everything goes +on with the greatest regularity.</p> +<p>The passengers on board one of the great Australian ships form +a perfect epitome of the great world ashore. The line of +division is sharply drawn between the various sets or +cliques. Many never condescend to notice numbers of their +fellow-passengers during the whole voyage; but for the most part +fraternisation becomes general after the first fortnight has +passed.</p> +<p>A three months’ voyage often enables a man to form a +juster appreciation of the character of his fellow-passengers +than many years’ residence in the same <a +name="page4"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 4</span>neighbourhood +would do on shore; hence it often happens that life-friendships +of the warmest kind are formed on board ship. On steamers +bound for the Colonies representatives of almost every class are +to be found. Judges returning to their duties after a +holiday all too short; colonial statesmen with sufficient time on +their hands to allow of their formulating a policy to meet every +conceivable combination among their parliamentary opponents; and +squatters and merchants returning to the Colonies to look after +their property or their business. These men are generally +very much preoccupied, and their only anxiety appears to be to +get as speedily as possible to their destination.</p> +<p>Another class is composed of clergymen and professional men +taking a holiday, and generally speaking with every sign of great +enjoyment; while two other classes are largely +represented—viz., invalids in search of health, and young +ne’er-do-wells sent to the Colonies under the mistaken idea +of their being more likely to reform in a new country. The +latter class is mainly composed of young fellows who have never +been brought up to any trade or calling at home, and who, with +their friends, seem to think that the Colonies are a sort of +“Tom Tiddler’s ground,” where they can +“pick up gold and silver.”</p> +<p>These youths are sent out by their friends as a last chance, +under what is known as the “private convict system,” +and I believe that a very small proportion of them ever take a +position of respectability after landing in the Colonies. +Nor is it to be wondered at, for on the principle of “birds +of a feather,” etc., these young men get together on the +outward voyage, and all their <a name="page5"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 5</span>previous vices become much intensified +by the association. On the other hand, many young men of +good character, going out to the Colonies in search of +employment, and showing by their conduct during the voyage that +they are self-respecting, and consequently trustworthy, have +secured good appointments from colonial merchants before leaving +the ship.</p> +<p>Those who take the voyage on account of impaired health mainly +consist of men suffering from overwork, and invalids more or less +affected with pulmonary disease. In the case of the former +a long voyage is the surest remedy; and for those in the earliest +stage of consumption it is generally found to be efficacious; but +it would be impossible to devise a more cruel fate for such as +are thoroughly affected by that fell disease than to send them +out on a long voyage. The conditions are all against them; +the draught in the saloon is always great, and there is a total +absence of those little comforts and delicacies which consumptive +patients so greatly need, and the lack of which is so sorely +felt. Doctors who have never made a voyage little think to +what a miserable fate they are dooming their consumptive patients +when they order them to take a sea voyage. In five cases +out of six these patients are sent out too late, and the voyage +only hastens their inevitable end, while, if they had only been +sent in the earliest stages of the disease, they would almost +certainly have been restored.</p> +<p>I started on my first Australian voyage on a lovely day in the +late autumn. The sun was shining brilliantly, and as there +was very little wind we fondly hoped we should cross the Bay of +Biscay without having to go <a name="page6"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 6</span>through the disagreeable experiences +usually met with there; but our hopes were rudely dispelled when, +after two days, having fairly got into the bay, we found a strong +“nor’-wester” blowing, with heavy seas and +torrents of rain.</p> +<p>Our ship was a duplicate of the ill-fated +“London,” and the officers comforted us with the +information that we were just on the spot where she had gone down +a few years before.</p> +<p>The wind and waves had been increasing in force during the +day; but at four o’clock, just as we were sitting down to +dinner, a heavy sea burst ’tween decks with a great uproar, +breaking through the doors leading from the main-deck to the +saloon, swamping the nearest cabins, and completely scattering +the dinner, dishes and all.</p> +<p>The stewards had a busy time of it for the next two hours in +mopping and baling the water out, and in preparing another +dinner. Many of us, however, preferred retiring to our +berths, the weather in the meantime getting decidedly +worse. Presently another sea was shipped, deluging our +cabin, amongst others, and leaving us in perfect darkness; while +the noise of the sailors tramping overhead, the smashing of +crockery, and the falling of blocks and ropes, the shouts of the +officers, and the continual roar of the storm, effectually +banished sleep for the night. I gained, however, one +valuable piece of information, for as a result of the storm I +learned a certain cure for sea-sickness! I had been quite +ill before the final burst, but the excitement from this cured me +instantly.</p> +<p><a name="page7"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 7</span>During +the night we travelled out of the storm into smoother water, and +it was curious to note the effect of this improved state of +affairs, and of the bright sunshine, in bringing fresh faces on +deck.</p> +<p>The life of a steward on board one of these ships is not an +enviable one. He has to be up at work at four +o’clock, washing and scrubbing the saloon; to wait at table +four times a day; to make the beds, and attend to the cabins; and +to be generally useful amongst the passengers, rarely finishing +before ten o’clock at night. Our steward was a very +handy fellow. He informed me he had a brother in New +Zealand in practice as a doctor, who wanted him to settle there, +but he preferred “a life on the ocean wave.” He +strongly recommended us to bathe frequently in salt water, saying +it “was good for the spin-ial orgins!”</p> +<p style="text-align: center"> +<a href="images/p7.jpg"> +<img alt= +"Teneriffe (from a sketch by J. Willis)" +title= +"Teneriffe (from a sketch by J. Willis)" +src="images/p7.jpg" /> +</a></p> +<p>Eight days after leaving Plymouth we passed the Canary +Islands, steaming between Teneriffe and Gomera. The weather +was delightful, and we had a fine view of <a +name="page8"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 8</span>the famous +Peak, which rises apparently straight out of the sea to a height +of 12,000 feet. These islands form a province of Spain, and +are volcanic in their origin. The last eruption was in +1824. The vegetable productions of the islands are very +varied. Palms and tropical plants grow near the sea; higher +up cereals are grown; above, laurels; and still higher, pines and +the white broom. The islands also produce oranges, lemons, +dates, sugar-cane, cotton, and silk.</p> +<p style="text-align: center"> +<a href="images/p8.jpg"> +<img alt= +"The “Sports” (from a sketch by G. A. Musgrave)" +title= +"The “Sports” (from a sketch by G. A. Musgrave)" +src="images/p8.jpg" /> +</a></p> +<p>Soon after passing the Canaries the Tropics are entered; and +some of us begin to feel, for the first time, what heat really +is. Awnings are fixed, and preparations are made for +various kinds of amusements, amongst which the most popular are +quoits, a run with the hounds, jumping in sacks by moonlight, +racing in sacks, etc.</p> +<p><a name="page9"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 9</span>The game +of quoits is much in favour with those who can play it, but it is +a most selfish affair, for half-a-dozen men monopolise the whole +of one side of the deck—and that the best or upper +side—and, beginning at ten in the morning, continue till +the dinner hour.</p> +<p>These are the day amusements. In the evenings there are +concerts, recitations, and occasionally theatrical +performances. Some passengers are of a studious turn, and +divide their time between reading, writing, and walking, while +others—notably young men from the Colonies—recline at +ease during the day and become lively at night, often +perambulating the decks with heavy heels till the small hours of +the morning, to the great discomfort of those sleeping below.</p> +<p>Our second-class fellow-passengers commenced the concert +season by giving a very amusing entertainment in their +saloon. The first piece on the programme was an +“overture by the band”—the band being +represented by a single concertina. The chairman, a +jolly-looking old tar, tried three pieces, and broke down in +amidst roars of laughter and calls for the chorus. An +“ancient buffer” sang “My Pretty Jane,” +and a few other sentimental things, with looks of fond +affection. Then came a solo by “Bones,” and +another sailor gave a song which recounted his many +ailments. He said he had had “brownchitis,” +“scarlatina,” “concertina,” and +“tightness in the chest.” Then a melancholy +youth ground out something about his love for a “Little +brown jug,” calling frequently for a chorus, the whole +ending with “God save the Queen.”</p> +<p>We had other concerts during the voyage, and it was noticeable +that the peculiarity which is said to attend <a +name="page10"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 10</span>amateur +performances on land was not absent with us, for our concerts +were usually productive of anything but harmony—at any rate +amongst the singers. Those who were first invited to sing +usually had colds, and those who were free from colds often +declined because they were not invited first. Even the +singing of hymns at the evening service was more than once made +the occasion of heated discussion.</p> +<p>Another mode of occupying leisure hours on board ship as soon +as the passengers have fairly settled down for the voyage is to +start a newspaper. A few of the passengers meet and choose +an editor, and the general public are invited to send +contributions to him. At the outset promises of help are +very abundant, but, as a matter of fact, the work has to be done +by a very few persons. The paper appears weekly, in +manuscript, and is usually read aloud by the editor after dinner +on the day of issue.</p> +<p>Sometimes it is agreed to have the paper printed on reaching +the Colony, and when that is determined upon one or two +individuals undertake the duty of passing it through the press, +and of forwarding it to the various subscribers. As a rule +the same persons rarely undertake the duty twice, for it is a +very arduous and oft-times thankless task.</p> +<p>Some of the more cautious subscribers object to paying in +advance, or require guarantees for due delivery and for the +proper performance of the work. On one occasion one of my +companions undertook the work of preparing the paper for the +press, and correcting the proofs; it took him nearly three weeks +to do so, and I am sure he will never undertake a similar +task. The <a name="page11"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +11</span>colonial printer gave him a great deal of trouble, +persisting in ignoring his corrections, and in “improving +the text” by altering it according to his own ideas. +One peculiarity of amateur authorship came out into strong relief +in the printing of this paper—the number of quotations and +of inverted commas was so great that our printer’s stock +was quite exhausted, and he had to send all round the city to +borrow a sufficient supply.</p> +<p style="text-align: center"> +<a href="images/p11.jpg"> +<img alt= +"The Captain (from a sketch by G. A. Musgrave)" +title= +"The Captain (from a sketch by G. A. Musgrave)" +src="images/p11.jpg" /> +</a></p> +<p>In a three months’ voyage the advantage of having a +genial captain is obvious, and in this respect we were <a +name="page12"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 12</span>most +fortunate, for it was impossible for anyone to be kinder or more +considerate. Our captain entered heartily into all our +amusements and schemes for the relief of the monotony of the +voyage, and was ably seconded in his efforts by his amiable +wife.</p> +<p>Sometimes it did appear to some of the more eager and +impatient of the passengers that the captain was fonder of being +on the water than they were; for he had a great regard for his +sails, and whenever the wind developed unusual energy had no +hesitation in diminishing the rate of our progress by shortening +sail. The first officer, perhaps with the rashness of +youth, would crowd all sail during his watch before breakfast, +but when the captain made his appearance an order to “Take +in those sails” would be promptly addressed to the +chief.</p> +<p>Our captain had made the voyage more than twenty times, and +had very carefully studied and noted the meteorological signs in +various latitudes. The sky seemed like a book to him, and +often when we could see no indications of change—and it was +wonderful how quickly changes sometimes came—he would +rapidly make his arrangements, and was rarely caught by the most +sudden of tropical squalls. Our first experience of one of +these squalls was when we were fifty miles to the south of +Madeira. The weather had been fine all day, but about five +o’clock we were aroused by great activity on the part of +the officers and crew, who acted as though they expected to be +boarded by pirates. The sky had become cloudy, and we were +told that a squall was expected. The captain stood at the +stern and gave his orders to the first officer in a <a +name="page13"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 13</span>quiet manner, +while the latter shouted them to the sailors, who at once began +to climb and pull at the ropes, all the while singing their sea +songs. In the meantime the wind had come up, and was +blowing like a hurricane through the rigging, and then the rain +came down in torrents. While this was going on we saw a +ship at a little distance, also overtaken by the squall, and it +was wonderful to see how soon they took in her sails—it was +done in a twinkling. Our vessel rolled and pitched heavily, +and everything looked wet and wretched; but the squall passed off +almost as quickly as it came, and the sun shone out, and +everything looked smiling again. Unfortunately, during the +storm the wind changed right ahead.</p> +<p>Our captain was a Tory, as most long-voyage captains +are. I have often thought it strange that it should be so, +seeing that the whole purpose of a captain’s life is to +make progress on his voyage; but it would appear that, although +he is always progressing, he invariably comes back to his +starting point.</p> +<p>At dinner one day, happening to say I was from Birmingham, the +captain said jocularly, “Oh, that’s where all the +shams come from!”</p> +<p>Now the captain hails from London, but his wife is an Irish +lady, so I answered, “No, captain, the things known as +Brummagem shams are like the Irish bulls, and are, for the most +part, manufactured in London.”</p> +<p>“That’s so,” said the captain’s wife; +“well done, Mr. Tangye,” and the captain +subsided.</p> +<p>Truly life on shipboard is a curious medley. Here is a +picture of what went on one night. In the lower tier of +cabins lies a young man in the last stage of <a +name="page14"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 14</span>consumption, +and almost in the agonies of death; in a cabin just above him is +another suffering from scarlet fever; within a few feet of these +are mothers nursing their babies. Sitting in a corner of +the saloon is another young man, also in the final stage of +consumption, away from all his friends, and without a single +acquaintance on board; in front of him are two card parties, one +of them playing for money, and looking as eager about it as +though dear life depended on success.</p> +<p>While all this is going on below, what might have been a +tragedy is being enacted on deck, for the quartermaster went +suddenly mad while standing at the wheel. The captain had +just given him some instructions, but he did not seem to take +kindly to them, and was inclined to be disputatious. +Presently he said, with an oath, “I won’t argue with +you to-night, captain.” The captain then ordered +another man to take the wheel, when the poor fellow ran along the +deck and fell forward, kicking vigorously. The captain, +thinking the man was in a fit, summoned the doctor, who, after +waiting till the patient became quieter, tried to persuade him to +go forward with him. The man, however, suddenly sprang up +and aimed a tremendous blow at the poor little doctor, who, +fortunately, being cunning of fence, managed to evade it. +He then chased the doctor around the deck, and would doubtless +have thrown him overboard if he could have caught him. The +first officer then came to the rescue and seized the lunatic, +but, although a very strong man, the doctor and he were unable to +hold him, and ultimately it took six men to carry him +forward. At last they managed to secure him, as they +thought, but in a very short time <a name="page15"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 15</span>the sailors came rushing pell-mell on +to the poop-deck, the maniac having got loose and begun to chase +them with a long fork. It was some time before they could +again secure him, but finally they succeeded, and put him into a +strait-jacket.</p> +<p>In the morning the first officer went to see the poor fellow, +who asked him to shake hands, but the officer declined. +“Well, sir,” said the man, “I saved all your +lives last night, for if I hadn’t put the ship about she +would have been right into that other ship on the starboard +bow!” Of course this was entirely a delusion, for +there had been no ship there.</p> +<p>Soon after entering the Tropics on one of my voyages, one of +the second-class passengers was taken ill, and died in a few +hours; he had been suffering from an attack of <i>delirium +tremens</i>. The funeral was arranged to take place at 7.30 +on the following morning, and at the appointed time the body, +which had been sewn up in sail-cloth, was placed on trestles on +the main deck, opposite a port-hole, the “Union Jack” +covering it. Presently the bell began to toll, while the +clergyman and captain read the service for the dead, and when the +latter came to the passage “We therefore commit his body to +the deep,” he looked at the sailors, who at once loosed the +corpse, which, being weighted with iron, shot through the open +port-hole into the water with a great splash. During the +ceremony the engines were stopped.</p> +<p>The day following was Sunday, and it being a glorious day, +with a perfectly smooth sea, it was arranged for the service to +be held on deck, which was covered with an awning. One of +the passengers had <a name="page16"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +16</span>brought a set of hand-bells with him, and he and some +others rang out a peal before the service, the effect being +curious.</p> +<p>The water was of a beautiful purple colour, and the sky a deep +blue, and some large white birds were lazily flying around the +ship. Under these unusual circumstances, and with the +solemn incident of the burial of the poor drunkard on the +previous day, one would have thought that even the dullest +minister would have felt a thrill of inspiration. Judge, +then, of our surprise when the parson commenced talking to us +about geology! Nor did he make the slightest reference to +the scene around him during the whole sermon. He told us, +incidentally, that miners had not yet succeeded in getting more +than twelve miles deep! During the afternoon I ventured to +ask him where the mine was situated of which he had spoken, as, +happening to know something about mining operations, I was +anxious to know how the miners managed to pump the water from a +depth of twelve miles. He answered testily, “I was +not speaking of any particular mine.”</p> +<p>On one occasion a discussion arose as to the best means to be +adopted to ensure the attendance of the working classes at +church. The reverend gentleman told us that for his part he +had no difficulty in getting people to attend his +church—all classes and conditions of people came to hear +him, and yet he took no special means to secure their +attendance. Not being impressed with the parson’s +eloquence, we were at a loss to understand how it was that he was +so successful, when far abler and more attractive men failed so +conspicuously; but he vouchsafed no explanation. On +arriving in the <a name="page17"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +17</span>Colony the explanation was forthcoming, for I found that +our reverend friend was chaplain to a cemetery!</p> +<p>On another occasion the old gentleman preached a sermon in +which he related an anecdote of a soldier who was mortally +wounded on the field of Waterloo. One of the chaplains +found the poor fellow, who showed him a Bible which he had always +carried in his pocket, it having been given him by his mother on +leaving home. “Doubtless,” said the clergyman, +“this young man, having served his country to the death, +went straight to glory.” Curiously enough, in the +lesson for that day occurred the verse, “Love your +enemies,” etc., so during the day I asked him how he +reconciled the verse with the idea of the red-handed soldier +going straight to glory? The parson (who was an Irishman) +replied, “Sure, the soldier was heaping <i>fire</i> on his +enemy’s head!”</p> +<p style="text-align: center"> +<a href="images/p17.jpg"> +<img alt= +"Ascension (from a sketch by J. Willis)" +title= +"Ascension (from a sketch by J. Willis)" +src="images/p17.jpg" /> +</a></p> +<p>In about eighteen days after leaving Plymouth we reached the +island of Ascension, whose fine group of volcanic peaks formed a +magnificent object from our steamer. The island is used as +a sanatorium for <a name="page18"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +18</span>the British Colonies on the west coast of Africa. +It has an area of about thirty-five square miles, and produces an +abundance of turtles, pheasants, peafowl, and eggs, while +tomatoes, castor-oil plants, and pepper, are indigenous.</p> +<p>The first officer went ashore with a boat to take our letters, +and to bring back some turtles for use during the voyage. +Immediately the boat left the ship we saw a big shark following +close in its wake, the brute’s fin showing above the water +until the landing-stage was reached. This gave us some +concern, as sharks are very bold at times, and have been known to +snap at a hand hanging over the side of a boat. We saw +large numbers about the ship during our stay, and one of the +passengers shot several of them with a rifle. One was quite +near to the ship when shot, and on feeling the bullet leaped +right out of the water, and was instantly attacked and doubtless +devoured by its brethren on falling back into the sea. We +also put out a hook baited with pork, and observed several of the +sharks make attempts upon it; but they appeared to be very +clumsy, for they repeatedly missed it. Presently, however, +one fellow got the hook firmly into his mouth, and we hauled him +in over the stern on to the poop. He dashed about madly, +looked very vicious, and reared right up on end, when the sailors +barbarously hacked his tail off. Soon he was hauled on to +the main-deck and quickly despatched, his teeth being on sale at +a shilling each in less than an hour afterwards. Three +turtles were brought on board “all alive,” and placed +on their backs on the deck until they were required by the +cook. They each measured 5ft.6in. long by 3ft. wide, and +6ft.8in. in girth, and each weighed about 330 lbs.</p> +<p><a name="page19"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 19</span>One day +we had very rough weather, with an occasional sea dashing over +the deck, along which the dinner was brought from the +kitchen. My steward quietly told me to take none of the +turtle soup, and I obeyed. After dinner I asked him why he +advised me to let the soup pass? He said that as they were +coming along the deck a sea came over and washed half the soup +out of the tureen, decidedly mixing what was left! Those +who partook of the soup remarked that the cook had put rather too +much salt to it; but they libelled that useful functionary.</p> +<p style="text-align: center"> +<a href="images/p19.jpg"> +<img alt= +"Crossing the “Line”—“Why! don’t +you see it?”" +title= +"Crossing the “Line”—“Why! don’t +you see it?”" +src="images/p19.jpg" /> +</a></p> +<p>One of our fellow-passengers was an old German lady, who was +returning from a visit to her fatherland. She was very +lively, and informed us she had not told her husband she was +returning by this ship, intending, as she said, “to catch +him on de hop,” but she did not know that the +passengers’ names were all sent on by the mail, which <a +name="page20"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 20</span>went faster +than we did; so when we got to the port her husband, +“Shemmy” (Jemmy), as she called him, had come out +with the pilot, and was very near catching her on “de +hop,” for she was a very lively old lady. One +morning, while we were in the Tropics, upon getting on deck, we +found the old lady dressed from head to foot in scarlet! It +was too much, with the thermometer at 101° in the shade, so a +deputation waited upon her and begged her to shade her glory, for +it was too overpowering.</p> +<p style="text-align: center"><a name="page21"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 21</span> +<a href="images/p21.jpg"> +<img alt= +"The “Baby Hippopotamus” at Play" +title= +"The “Baby Hippopotamus” at Play" +src="images/p21.jpg" /> +</a></p> +<h2>CHAPTER II.</h2> +<p>After being a month at sea the sailors performed the ceremony +called “Burying the Dead Horse,” the explanation of +which is this: Before leaving port seamen are paid a month in +advance, so as to enable them to leave some money with their +wives, or to buy a new kit, etc., and having spent the money they +consider the first month goes for nothing, and so call it +“Working off the Dead Horse.” The crew dress up +a figure to represent a horse; its body is made out of a barrel, +its extremities of hay or straw covered with canvas, the mane and +tail of hemp, the eyes of two ginger beer bottles, sometimes +filled with phosphorus. When complete the noble steed is +put on a box, covered with a rug, and on the evening of the last +day of the month a <a name="page22"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +22</span>man gets on to his back, and is drawn all round the ship +by his shipmates, to the chanting of the following +doggerel:—</p> +<p style="text-align: center"> +<a href="images/p22.jpg"> +<img alt= +"Music to Burying the Dead Horse" +title= +"Music to Burying the Dead Horse" +src="images/p22.jpg" /> +</a></p> +<blockquote><p style="text-align: center">BURYING THE DEAD +HORSE.</p> +<p>You have come a long long way,<br /> + And we say so, for we know so.<br /> +For to be sold upon this day,<br /> + Poor old man.</p> +<p>You are goin’ now to say good-bye,<br /> + And we say so, for we know so.<br /> +Poor old horse you’re a goin’ to die,<br /> + Poor Old Man.</p> +</blockquote> +<p>Having paraded the decks in order to get an audience, the sale +of the horse by auction is announced, and a glib-mouthed man +mounts the rostrum and begins to praise the noble animal, giving +his pedigree, etc., saying it was a good one to go, for it had +gone 6,000 <a name="page23"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +23</span>miles in the past month! The bidding then +commences, each bidder being responsible only for the amount of +his advance on the last bid. After the sale the horse and +its rider are run up to the yard-arm amidst loud cheers. +Fireworks are let off, the man gets off the horse’s back, +and, cutting the rope, lets it fall into the water. The +<i>Requiem</i> is then sung to the same melody.</p> +<blockquote><p>Now he is dead and will die no more,<br /> + And we say so, for we know so.<br /> +Now he is gone and will go no more;<br /> + Poor Old Man.</p> +</blockquote> +<p style="text-align: center"> +<a href="images/p23.jpg"> +<img alt= +"Burying the Dead Horse" +title= +"Burying the Dead Horse" +src="images/p23.jpg" /> +</a></p> +<p>After this the auctioneer and his clerk proceed to collect the +“bids,” and if in your ignorance of auction etiquette +you should offer your’s to the auctioneer, he politely +declines it, and refers you to his clerk!</p> +<p><a name="page24"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 24</span>As we +neared the Equator the heat became very oppressive. On +October 2nd, when 7° north of the line, the thermometer stood +at 120° in the sun, while under the awning it registered +85°. On the thermometer being dipped into the sea the +temperature of the surface water was found to be 82°, while +in the cabin at midnight the thermometer stood at 80°, with +the wind blowing in at the open porthole.</p> +<p>In passing under the vertical sun the old proverb “may +your shadow never grow less” is entirely out of place, for +it is impossible it can diminish, unless, indeed, one should +become like poor misguided Peter Schlemihl, and find oneself +altogether without one! When standing upright my shadow was +about two feet in diameter, and it looked like the shadow of the +brim of my hat all round my feet.</p> +<p>The wife of the captain of our steamer had been very unwell +until we had passed the Equator, and had not come out of her +cabin. One evening, soon after she made her first +appearance, I was chatting with her, when, finding I was from +Cornwall, she asked me if I knew a certain watering-place in that +county which she named. It happened that I had a residence +at the place in question, and curiously enough she had been a +visitor at the same house before I had it, and she said, +“last year my sister was staying in the neighbourhood with +some friends, when they were nearly caught by the tide on the +beach opposite the house, and had to scale the face of the cliff, +climbing up some old ladders left in an abandoned +mine.” I told her if they had taken my advice, and +had turned back, they would not have had such an unpleasant +adventure, for I happened to be <a name="page25"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 25</span>on the beach at the time, and warned +the party of their danger, but they disregarded it! It was +curious to be reminded of this occurrence under such +circumstances.</p> +<p>Amongst our fellow-passengers were two young men, whose +friends, it was reported, had become tired of them at home, and +had made a present of them to the Colonies. They were very +lively youths, and did their best to keep the ship lively by +their pranks and escapades. They were known by the names of +“Tall and Fat,” and “Short and Stout,” +and were always together. Sometimes, however, the +playfulness of these two young men received an unexpected +check. On one occasion they had gone “forward” +to play some tricks upon the emigrants, who, however, did not see +the fun; so, having got the lads into a corner, they covered +them, first with molasses and then with flour, and so returned +them to the saloon. They did not repeat their visit.</p> +<p>There is one feature on board many ships which always strikes +passengers with surprise; and that is the impunity with which the +“wild spirits” carry on their disorderly +conduct. Drinking, betting, shouting, tramping the deck at +unseemly hours of the night, are permitted, to the great +annoyance of the majority; but it is in vain that you appeal to +the officers—they will not interfere. On one occasion +a noisy youth, who went by the name of the “Blatant +Beast,” was firing a revolver about “at large,” +and although we appealed to the captain, and begged that he would +disarm the lad, it was useless—he would not +interfere. Ultimately the young man accidentally discharged +the pistol and broke his arm, and so relieved his neighbours from +further apprehensions for a time.</p> +<p><a name="page26"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 26</span>One +night “Short and Stout” and “Tall and +Fat,” and a few other rowdies, got drunk, and in their +rambles found a poor harmless cat, which they chased all over the +ship, and succeeded in killing. On the following day these +gallant youths determined, in Irish phrase, to “wake” +the cat. They proceeded to fit up one of their cabins as a +chapel, and upon a bier the corpse of poor pussy was laid, having +been dressed for the occasion, candles surrounding the +body. The mourners, or murderers, stood around the body +with pipes in their mouths, meggy-howling and cat-a-wauling in a +most vigorous fashion, afterwards parading the deck, headed by +one of their party, arrayed in a dress coat over a night shirt, +and wearing a tall white hat, carrying the dead body of poor puss +before him.</p> +<p>Betting is often carried on to a great extent, considerable +sums of money changing hands. One passenger told me, after +we had been some weeks at sea, that he had cleared enough to pay +for his own passage, and also for that of his wife and child, and +that it only remained for him to win enough to pay for the nurse, +and to take them all from Australia to New Zealand, and he should +be happy! I knew one man, the father of a very large +family, who lost £700 in three weeks, £400 of it +going at a single night’s play; yet, with striking +consistency, this open-handed gentleman refused to allow his wife +and daughters to go on shore at one of the most interesting of +our ports of call on the score of the expense, which he said +would amount to at least £2 or £3!</p> +<p>A pleasant sight it is to watch the fish and birds which begin +to make their appearance about 30° S. Occasionally <a +name="page27"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 27</span>flocks of +flying-fish are to be seen flying a few feet above the water, +pursued by dolphins. Sometimes their headlong flight +carries them right on to the deck, or through the cabin windows +when lighted up after nightfall. They are caught by the +sailors at night by the simple device of suspending a net in +front of a lantern, and they are said to be very good when +cooked.</p> +<p>We first saw that splendid bird, the albatross, when about +28° S. latitude, and when more than 1,000 miles from +land. They appeared in flocks, and would follow the ship +for many days. Their flight is exceedingly graceful, and +very rapid, the movement of their wings being scarcely +perceptible. The capture of the albatross is a favourite +amusement upon sailing ships—it is scarcely possible to +catch them from a steamer—the plan being to let out a line +over the stern, having a strong hook baited with a piece of meat +or with red cloth. We were successful in catching a +magnificent fellow, which measured 15ft. across its wings. +A drop of prussic acid applied to the eye of the poor creature +causes instant death. The breast forms an excellent muff, +and the wing bones make good stems for pipes of the +“churchwarden” pattern. One of our passengers +was a fiery Irishman, who was travelling with his newly-married +wife. One day, while at dinner, the ship gave a heavy +lurch, and the lady fell back, breaking her chair; upon which her +husband, in a great rage, seized the chair, and, rushing on deck, +threw it overboard, when lo! a flock of albatrosses crowded +around it, and one fine fellow “took” the chair, and +appeared to be addressing his friends!</p> +<p><a name="page28"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 28</span>One of +the most beautiful creatures to be seen in tropical waters is the +“Portuguese Man-of-War.” It is often confounded +with the Nautilus, but is a quite distinct organism; it has a +crest which can be raised or lowered at will, and its body +consists of a long, horizontal, oblong bladder filled with +air. They vary in size from 12in. diameter to small discs +no larger than a shilling, and present a beautiful appearance as +the ship passes by a fleet of them.</p> +<p style="text-align: center"> +<a href="images/p28.jpg"> +<img alt= +"(A) The “Classic” Dolphin. (B) The Dolphin" +title= +"(A) The “Classic” Dolphin. (B) The Dolphin" +src="images/p28.jpg" /> +</a></p> +<p>We caught some dolphins, and an examination of their stomachs +proved they were not unjustly suspected of eating the pretty +little flying-fish. The pilot-fish, also found in these +latitudes, is coloured purple and <a name="page29"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 29</span>silver, with five black bands across +it, and is about five inches in length. We also saw +specimens of the white shark, porpoises, grampuses, Mother +Carey’s chickens, booby-birds, etc.</p> +<p>One of the most interesting sights at sea is the passing of +ships. I shall never forget our meeting a ship in full sail +one glorious moonlight night. It came close to us, the moon +shining full on its sails, and being like our vessel, a sailing +ship, not a sound was heard until our captain hailed the +stranger, and asked him to report us “all well.”</p> +<p>One would think there was not much danger of collision at sea, +in broad daylight and in the open ocean, but on one occasion, +while in a sailing ship, another came so close to us that it was +only by the most dexterous management on the part of our captain +that a collision was avoided.</p> +<p>The monotony of a long voyage is occasionally relieved by the +opportunity of sending letters in homeward-bound ships, and when +we had been out about a month we were told to have our letters +ready, for a ship was in sight. Everyone was immediately +deeply engaged in writing, and presently the stranger came +sufficiently near for us to communicate with her. Our +signal was run up, “Will you take letters for us?” to +which she quickly replied, “With pleasure,” and then +a boat left us to take our letter-bag on board the +“homeward-bound.” This vessel was from Moulmein +with teak, and she had been one hundred days out. Those on +board had heard nothing of the Cabul massacre, but they brought +us news of the capture of Cetewayo, having got it from a passing +ship. In return <a name="page30"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 30</span>for this intelligence we told them of +the death of the Prince Imperial, which they had not heard of, +although it happened before the capture of Cetewayo.</p> +<p>Some of our passengers went on board the passing ship, and two +of them scrambled up the rigging, and presently we saw a sailor +follow them and tie their legs to the rigging, releasing them as +soon as they had paid their footing. In the evening the two +ships parted company, saluting each other with rockets of various +colours.</p> +<p>While our letters were being taken on board the homeward-bound +ship, we saw a huge shark follow the boat until it reached the +vessel, and on hearing a shout, “a big fish!” we ran +to the ship’s side and saw a whale not more than a hundred +feet off. The monster gave a loud snort, spouted water, and +then made off. I wonder if it had any idea what we +were?</p> +<p>There was a boxing match going forward one day, when the +captain invited the parson to put the gloves on. “Oh, +no,” he said, “I am a man of peace +<i>now</i>.” He told me he objected to war as much as +anyone could do. “But,” I said, “your +Church does not.” He replied that there was nothing +in the teaching of the Church which advocated war; so I asked +him, if that was the case, what that part of the prayer-book +meant where a hope is expressed that the Queen may +“vanquish and overcome all her enemies.”</p> +<p>At dinner one day our friend undertook to explain to us how +drain-pipes were made. He said, “You know those round +things that are put in the earth to carry off the +water?” Some one suggested drain-pipes. +“Ah, yes,” he said, “you know they take a kind +of clay not <a name="page31"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +31</span>like other clay, and put it into a sort of machine and +turn it around and the pipes are made.” I thought his +description was not so good as that of the Irishman who explained +the manufacture of cast-iron pipes by saying, “You take a +round hole and pour the metal around it.”</p> +<p style="text-align: center"> +<a href="images/p31.jpg"> +<img alt= +"A Colonial Parson" +title= +"A Colonial Parson" +src="images/p31.jpg" /> +</a></p> +<p>Some one remarking that we were now 36° south, he said, +“Ah, that is just 4° below freezing,” having +confused the degrees of latitude with those of the +thermometer. Upon being told that 32° was the freezing +point. “Really?” he said, “I always +thought it was 40°.”</p> +<p>In listening to most of the clergymen with whom I have +travelled, I have been irresistibly reminded of the complaint +made so bitterly, and with so much truth, by Australian importers +in the early gold-finding days, that English merchants and +manufacturers were utterly reckless as to the quality of the +goods they sent out, <a name="page32"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 32</span>acting on the principle that +“anything will do for the Colonies.” This idea +has long ceased to have any currency, for it has been discovered +that the coinage of the Australian mint ranks equally with that +of London, but it does not appear that those responsible for the +due supply of clergymen to the Colonies have realised the same +truth, for on every hand I have had my own experience +confirmed. The general complaint amongst the colonists, +especially in the country districts, is that either young and +totally inexperienced men are sent to them, or else men who have +proved failures at home; and they not unnaturally resent such +treatment.</p> +<p>In a recent voyage we had a large number of steerage +passengers, and amongst them was a very earnest, hard-working +evangelist from Mr. Spurgeon’s college; this man had +sacrificed his ease during the voyage by attending to the sick +and ailing “in season and out of season,” and was +admitted on all sides to have done much good; frequently, too, he +held religious services amongst the steerage passengers, and met +with great acceptance. One man had been very ill for a long +time, and had been tenderly waited upon by the evangelist. +After a time he became suddenly worse, and some passengers at +once went to a clergyman, who suggested that the Communion should +be administered. Having obtained the help of another +clergyman and two or three of the passengers—none of whom +had before shown any interest in the patient—they proceeded +on their errand without saying a word to the evangelist, and on +the following Sunday the clergyman preached a sermon to the poor +people, endeavouring to prove that no one had any right to <a +name="page33"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 33</span>teach or to +preach but members of his Church, who, only, held the true +commission, by virtue of what he called the “direct +succession from Peter:” and I suppose he thought he was +preaching religion, not perceiving that he lacked what Paul +described as being the highest of all the Christian +virtues—that of charity.</p> +<p>In passing through the Tropics one of the most glorious sights +is the phosphorescence in the sea. Of course it can be seen +to the greatest advantage in the absence of the moon; it is +something wonderful, and worth coming all the way to see. +As far as the eye can reach, the track of the vessel is marked +out with the utmost brilliancy, and sometimes tiny balls of +phosphorus seem to explode, scattering their radiance far and +wide.</p> +<p>We had as fellow-passengers three young men who rarely spoke +to anyone outside their own party, and during the early part of +the voyage they usually sat on the deck for hours at a time +engaged in reading their Bibles and making notes on the +margin. After we had been out a few weeks the youngest of +the three was stricken with scarlet fever, and at one time he was +seriously ill.</p> +<p>The trio were known as the “Danite Band.” +The eldest was a young man about twenty-one, and one evening I +had a little chat with him. He said he belonged to no sect; +he had “come out from among them”—that his soul +was safe, die when he would, and that he could only look on the +poor sinners around him with a pitying eye, and pray for their +souls. He was rejoicing at having saved one soul since he +came on board. It so happened that this young man occupied +the <a name="page34"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 34</span>same +cabin as the youth who was ill with fever, but becoming alarmed +for his personal safety (not his soul’s), he requested to +be accommodated elsewhere, while another passenger volunteered to +take his place and to nurse the invalid, so they exchanged +cabins. On the following Sunday the young man who had +volunteered as nurse knocked at the pious young man’s door +and asked for his boots, receiving for answer, “I +won’t be bothered about boots on the Lord’s +Day.”</p> +<p>It is usual to hold a bazaar on passenger ships proceeding to +or from the Colonies. These bazaars are almost invariably +held in aid of the funds of the Merchant Seaman’s Hospital +and other similar institutions, and a large sum is annually +obtained in this way. The result in the case of the sailing +vessel in which I made one of my voyages was a sum of over +£50, besides some annual subscriptions, although the number +of adult saloon passengers was only about thirty.</p> +<p>Great preparations were made for this bazaar, it being the +event of the voyage. The day previous the sailors were +busily engaged closing-in the promenade deck with canvas and +bunting, and dividing it off into stalls by means of flags and +other coloured materials. While thus engaged, another +sailing vessel came in sight, and the sea being nearly dead calm +the two vessels approached closely, and parties were speedily +passing to and fro. We invited some of the passengers in +the stranger to join us to-morrow, and they invested about +£5 in lotteries before going back for the night.</p> +<p>Next day was a most lovely one, but a heavy rolling sea was +sufficient to prevent our visitors of yesterday joining us. +Nevertheless, we thoroughly enjoyed the <a +name="page35"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 35</span>day +ourselves, for the whole ship’s company—passengers, +crew, men, women, and children—held high carnival on the +promenade deck. It was pretty to see the children of the +second class who, owing to the high bulwarks, were rarely able to +see over the ship’s side, rush first of all to look over +the rail at the heaving sea.</p> +<p>The first officer was dressed as a showman, and presided over +the Fine Art Exhibition, his face being painted a fine +terra-cotta tint. The crew and stewards were variously +costumed as nigger minstrels, etc. The stalls were presided +over by the ladies, who, as usual, were very successful in +disposing of the various articles, which, by the way, were for +the most part made up by the ladies themselves during the +voyage. Much curiosity was excited by the announcement of a +dramatic performance, entitled “The White Squall,” +which was to take place in the Theatre Royal. The <i>corps +dramatique</i> evinced great anxiety to secure the attendance of +the whole ship’s company, and were fairly successful. +The performance did not take long, for as soon as the audience +were seated cries of “Let go” were heard from the +actors, upon which the air was filled with a veritable +“White Squall,” consisting of clouds of flour, +causing a general stampede.</p> +<p>Next day we found our companion of yesterday lying at some +distance ahead, while a stranger lay on the port quarter. A +curious instance of cross-signalling ensued. The stranger +asks our companion, the St. Vincent, for latitude and +longitude. The St. Vincent missing this, and intent on +their investment in yesterday’s lottery, puts up, +“What have we won?” The reply, +“Nothing.” The stranger runs up, +“Don’t <a name="page36"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +36</span>understand. Repeat, please.” Then St. +Vincent replies, “Very sorry,” upon which our Captain +signals the stranger, and removes all further doubt.</p> +<p>We passed close to the Island of Tristan d’Acunha, which +lies in the South Atlantic, lat. 37° 6′ S., long. +12° 7′ W. As a curious little history attaches to +the island, I make the following extract from our ship’s +newspaper:</p> +<p>“Tristan d’Acunha is a volcanic peak of very +considerable altitude, so considerable indeed that its summit is +covered almost perpetually with snow. It rises sheer out of +the water, and there is only a single landing-place on the whole +island. Previous to the downfall of Bonaparte it was +uninhabited; but when that scourge was despatched to St. Helena, +the British Government deemed it advisable to secure this +isolated rock, and so prevent the French using it as a base of +operations against the place of Napoleon’s +internment. A small company of soldiers, in charge of a +corporal, was therefore despatched, and left in possession.</p> +<p>“In 1821 Napoleon died, and the necessity for +maintaining the garrison at Tristan existed no longer. A +man-of-war was accordingly sent to bring away the corporal and +his little army. But he and they had by this time +comfortably settled down, tilled the—rock we were about to +say—and produced excellent potatoes and other vegetables; +raised pigs and goats, and having in some mysterious way obtained +wives, had raised families too. They were therefore +extremely reluctant to leave the scene of their successful +labours; and the English Government, nothing loth to encourage +colonisation, at once gave the necessary permission to remain, +and with it a small pension or annuity.</p> +<p><a name="page37"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +37</span>“They have gone on flourishing and increasing, +forming a useful and peaceable community in the very centre of +the South Atlantic; useful because whalers and other vessels, by +putting in there, are able to obtain fresh potatoes, vegetables, +and pigs. Little money is used, barter affording sufficient +facility for interchange.</p> +<p>“Crime is almost unknown. We had as well said +absolutely unknown, for it is doubtful whether the one case of +dishonesty on record as such was not rather an ill-fared +joke. It seems that when a marriage takes place a pig is +killed by the bride’s father, and dressed the night before +the nuptials. On the occasion referred to the pig +disappeared before morning, and was traced to the house of a +notorious wag, as to whose fate history is silent. It is +only fair to add that he admitted taking the pig, but protested +that it had been done by way of a practical joke. At one +time a missionary existed in the midst of this innocent +community, but he eventually disappeared—either died or was +removed. His place was never refilled, and the consequences +have been rather trying to the budding men and women of Tristan, +for whereas in the missionary’s days loving couples could +be, to use a nautical phrase, “spliced,” when they +had made up their minds, now they must wait until a chance +man-o’-war, with a chaplain on board, puts in, and as their +visits are nearly as rare as those of the angels, the patience of +these Tristan lovers must unquestionably be sorely +strained. When, however, like some comet of very eccentric +orbit, the parson does at length turn up, he finds plenty of ripe +pairs ready—nay, eager—for him.</p> +<p><a name="page38"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +38</span>“What a popular man that parson must be! +Last and most interesting fact. When the +‘Sobraon’ put in at Tristan in 1879 the corporal was +still living, a venerable patriarch of ninety years.”</p> +<p>After leaving Tristan we soon get “into the +forties,” or as the sailors are wont to say, “the +rolling forties,” where the westerly winds steadily +prevail, and continue right on until we make Cape Leeuwin. +These winds cause the magnificent waves, or +“rollers,” which tower up over the stern of the +vessel, threatening, apparently, to overwhelm it. In a gale +of wind, and when the “following seas” are running at +a high speed, it becomes necessary for some vessels to “lie +to” in order to avoid this catastrophe. We had an +opportunity of seeing this operation. Soon after passing +the Cape we were overtaken by a heavy gale, and a high following +sea. Our vessel being a sailing ship of the old type, with +broad bluff bows, necessitated our adopting that course. +Our stern was turned in the teeth of the wind and sea, and, with +the exception of a top-sail and jib-sail, all our canvas was +closely taken in. She lay so all night labouring heavily, +and the sea breaking over her decks.</p> +<p>Soon after sighting Cape Otway vessels bound for Melbourne +receive their pilot, whose advent is the occasion of great +excitement among the betting fraternity. Bets are laid on +the colour of his hair and whiskers, whether or not he has a +moustache, the letter with which his name begins, and which foot +he will first put on deck. As soon as he makes his +appearance he is greeted with shouts of “What’s your +name?” Evidently he is accustomed to it, for he does +not look surprised. In this particular case everyone was +out as <a name="page39"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 39</span>to +the colour of his hair and beard, for he had a black beard and +white whiskers. The pilot brought news of a general +election in one of the colonies, and one of our passengers, a +colonial statesman, eagerly asked him for papers. The +statesman’s countenance was expressive of blankness within +when he saw he was beaten in his constituency—but soon +brightened on hearing he was returned by another.</p> +<p>The entrance to Hobson’s Bay is very narrow, and the +distance therefrom to Melbourne is about 40 miles. We +landed soon after six on a January morning, and found the heat +almost unbearable. Taking a cab to our hotel, we made our +first experience of the high charges in a Protectionist colony, +for we were obliged to pay a guinea for this service.</p> +<p style="text-align: center"><a name="page40"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 40</span> +<a href="images/p40.jpg"> +<img alt= +"IN THE TROPICS" +title= +"IN THE TROPICS" +src="images/p40.jpg" /> +</a></p> +<h2>CHAPTER III.</h2> +<p>When driving to the hotel we were struck with the deserted +appearance of the streets, as very few persons were seen during +our three miles’ ride from Sandridge. It did not +occur to us that this arose from the earliness of the hour, our +day having commenced about three <span +class="GutSmall">A.M.</span>, when we began to make preparations +for landing; but, as will be seen, the fact became of startling +significance to us. While waiting for breakfast I took up +the newspaper, and had not proceeded far before I came to an +article headed “The Black Death in Melbourne.” +This article gave a detailed and circumstantial account of the +progress of the disease, which was stated to have been raging for +the past four or five weeks. Among other things, the +article stated that the number of deaths had become so great that +it was impossible to <a name="page41"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 41</span>dig separate graves; that the bodies +were placed in trenches, one being dug each day; that all who +could leave the city had fled; and that the mob had surrounded +the Town Hall, demanding to see the Mayor and Corporation, who, +however, had already disappeared. Getting alarmed, we rang +for the waiter, and asked him how we could get to Adelaide. +He naturally enough seemed surprised, as we had only just +arrived. I told him it was too bad he had not warned us of +the state of the city, and of the existence of the plague. +The man looked astonished. I asked him if there had not +been great illness and mortality in the city. He answered +that there had been a few cases of measles, and a whooping-cough +or two, and that six people had died during the last week from +these causes. I began to suspect we had been +“sold,” and was about to pass the paper to him when I +caught sight of an asterisk placed against the heading, and on +looking at the foot of the column saw that the article was +written as a prediction of what would happen in Melbourne within +100 years unless sanitary matters were at once attended to.</p> +<p>Melbourne is a city of fine broad streets, handsome public +buildings, splendid shops, and vast warehouses. Indeed, a +stranger cannot fail to be struck with its metropolitan-like +character. Only forty years ago the site on which it stands +was a mere swamp with a few log huts; now its population is about +the third of a million souls. For this population a series +of educational institutions of an unusually high character have +been founded, and are in active operation. The Free +Library, which we visited, is a handsome room, and seems in every +way <a name="page42"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 42</span>well +adapted to the requirements of a large number of students and +readers. We were impressed with the quietude which +prevailed, notwithstanding that the room was well filled with +readers, most of them apparently of the artisan class. The +Art Gallery is a free institution, and contains a very fair +collection of good paintings.</p> +<p>The Natural History Museum, which by the way is really a +museum of general science, is a truly magnificent +institution. Very fine collections are here classified in a +manner which, while perfectly lucid to the student, is also in +strict accordance with the views of modern scientific +authorities. We noticed particularly a good collection of +sedimentary fossils, well preserved and fairly +comprehensive. A fine meteorolite weighing 30 cwts., a +portion of one weighing four tons which fell in Victoria a few +years ago, is a prominent object near the entrance. This +museum, in common with the Art Gallery and Free Library, is the +resort of vast numbers of students, and it is cheering to be +informed that the working classes largely avail themselves of the +advantages thus provided for them.</p> +<p>As in the other Australian colonies, education here has been +taken up in a vigorous and thorough manner, and the State schools +are a credit to the colony. Although the population of +Victoria is under one million, we observed in Melbourne a school +bearing the inscription No. 1465. But with all this +liberality and foresight, a strange blot exists in the +educational course, for the study of history is, in deference to +the prejudices of a portion of the population, absolutely +interdicted. It is impossible, however, that this absurd +concession to <a name="page43"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +43</span>ignorance can long be endured. In leaving Aden on +one occasion I began to have doubts as to whether geography was +also excluded, for a young man, son of a well-to-do squatter, +hearing me speak of Suez, asked which end of the canal that town +stood at; and another youth, in passing the island of Candia, +said he always thought <i>Canada</i> was somewhere in +America.</p> +<p>Happily, no fears exist in Australia as to the policy of +thoroughly educating the people; on the contrary, it is commonly +recognised that the future prosperity of the State—indeed +its very existence—depends upon the universal diffusion of +education.</p> +<p>At the time of our visit party feeling ran very high in +connection with the doings of the “Berry” Ministry, +and as extraordinary personalities were nightly being indulged in +by both sides in the House, we went one evening to hear a +“debate.” The regular business seemed to be +conducted as well as it is at Westminster, but it was curious to +see the careless way in which the members, in brown holland or +yellow silk coats, lay about on the sofas, or lazily lounged off +to the table for frequent draughts of what was said to be iced +water. The shouts, cries, and interruptions were very +unseemly, much worse than anything we had then experienced, +giving us a very low opinion of the representatives of the +people. One honourable member, in the course of debate, +hurled a heavy tome across the house at the head of one of his +opponents with crushing effect, while another member +characterised the smile of the Minister of Lands as being such as +to “sour all the milk in the colony, and to take the +varnish off all the mahogany in the <a name="page44"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 44</span>house.” This compliment +the Minister lightly parried by remarking that anything coming +from the son of a cabbage hawker could not affect him.</p> +<p>The Melbourne legislators evidently do not believe in having +“all work and no play,” they have consequently +provided themselves—of course out of the public +purse—with billiard tables, and, with a spirit of rare +generosity and thoughtfulness, have made the parliamentary +reporters for the Press free of the rooms.</p> +<p>With such provision for their comfort, and with handsome +salaries paid them for their services by a grateful country, what +wonder that there should be considerable competition for seats +within the walls of the Victorian House of Parliament? and with +what feelings of commiseration must they regard their brethren of +New South Wales, who, when one of their number recently proposed +to imitate the example of Melbourne in the matter of billiard +tables, were reminded, in unmistakable terms by their exacting +constituents, that they were sent to Parliament to work and not +to play! And what makes the matter harder for the Sydney +legislators is the fact that, unlike their Melbourne friends, +they are not paid for their services.</p> +<p>The question of the payment of Members of Parliament has +acquired considerable interest in England of late, mainly in +consequence of Mr. Chamberlain’s declaration in its favour; +and it appears not unlikely that at no distant date it may be +carried into effect. There are two modes by which the +object in view may be attained;—either by a general charge +upon the Imperial Revenue, or by each constituency paying its own +representative; in either case the <a name="page45"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 45</span>amount of salary would be determined +by Parliament; and, if the latter course be adopted, its payment +would be made obligatory. In Victoria the salaries are paid +direct from the Treasury, and those who have seen how the system +works are the least enthusiastic in its favour.</p> +<p>Time was, when to be a Member of Parliament was looked upon as +a certain way to repair a broken fortune, or to make a new one; +but since the days when George III., of pious memory, taught his +Ministers how to corrupt the Parliament, a seat in that assembly +has not been considered to be pecuniarily advantageous. But +in some of the Australian colonies the case is different, +politics being looked upon, to a great extent, as a trade or +profession, and very largely because of the salary attached to +the position of Members of the Legislature.</p> +<p>One of my customers in Victoria, who had long owed me +£50, told me he would soon be able to discharge his debt as +he had been nominated for Parliament, and would pay me out of his +first quarter’s salary! It is only fair to say that, +although he failed to secure the seat, he nevertheless paid his +debt.</p> +<p>The Houses of Parliament stand on a slight elevation, and +though still unfinished, promise to be a magnificent pile of +buildings, of which many an old-established country, with far +greater pretensions than Victoria, might well be proud. The +Great Hall, a sort of ante-chamber to the Houses, impressed me as +much as any building of the kind I had ever seen. It is +about 180ft. long, by 60ft. wide, and 60ft. high, without +galleries, seats, or anything to detract from its <a +name="page46"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 46</span>magnificent +proportions. The whole surface of the walls and roof is +covered with a beautiful enamel-like cement, brilliantly white +and polished quite smooth, the floor being of white marble, and a +superb white marble statue of the Queen in the centre. The +whole effect is startlingly beautiful. I subsequently went +over the Town Hall and Council Chamber, but these are much +inferior to corresponding buildings in Birmingham. The +councillors wear cocked hats and gold-braided coats, and the +aldermen black stuff gowns or robes.</p> +<p>I have already spoken of the tension in party politics at the +time of our visit. This was seized upon by the theatrical +people, who produced an adaptation of the burlesque known in +England as “Happy Land,” the principal characters +being Mr. Berry—the Premier, the man with the caustic +smile, and another prominent member of the Administration. +On the morning of the day on which the first representation was +to have been given, a Cabinet Council was hastily summoned, and +the question gravely debated as to whether the safety of the +State, or at any rate the Cabinet, would not be compromised by +tolerating the performance. It was quickly and unanimously +decided to prohibit it, and this decision was announced. +Such a universal storm of ridicule was thus aroused that the +infatuated Berryites were driven to reconsider their course, +ultimately licensing an emasculated version of the play, with all +the political references erased. The newspapers, ever alive +to the chance of turning a penny, and showing up an opponent, +published the original <i>in extenso</i>, and when the +performance began large numbers of the audience had copies before +them. <a name="page47"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +47</span>When an excised passage was reached, the actor or +actress would pause, and, holding up the hand, whisper audibly, +“Hush! prohibited,” giving time for those with copies +to read the obnoxious reference. For days after people in +the street would, on meeting, put up the finger, and greet each +other with “Hush! prohibited.” The Government +were overwhelmed with ridicule, and were glad to compromise with +the persons they had so injudiciously provoked.</p> +<p>During the summer Melbourne is occasionally visited by what +are called “hot winds.” They blow from the +north, and derive much of their arid character from coming over +the great wastes of the interior. We were unlucky enough to +experience one of these hot winds, and we subsequently learned +that the shade temperature had reached 117°—as high a +point, I believe, as any that had previously been recorded in the +city. It is no exaggeration to say that while exposed to +the wind it felt like the hot blast from the cupola of a foundry +when iron is being melted. The clothes were little or no +protection against its scorching influence. The air was +filled with choking clouds of dust, which penetrated everything +and everywhere. In the evening, however, the wind fell off, +leaving the temperature very high.</p> +<p>The sanitary arrangements in Melbourne are extremely +defective, and to my mind fully justify the writer of the article +on the “Black Death,” which so much startled us on +our arrival there. There is literally no system of +sewerage, the whole drainage of the town running by the side of +the pathways in wide ill-paved channels, crossed by wooden foot +bridges. The whole <a name="page48"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 48</span>runs into the river Yarra. In +heavy rains these channels become surcharged, and the lower-lying +streets are flooded with diluted sewage. On such an +occasion I was crossing one of these gutters, when a +street-sweeper approached, holding his cap in one hand and his +broom in the other, and asked me to remember “an old +shipmate, your honour.” I soon recognised him as our +old friend “Tall and Fat”. I could not help +looking surprised, whereat he assured me he had found a most +excellent berth as a street-sweeper—that none but gentlemen +were engaged in the “profession,” all being Oxford or +Cambridge men—the wages being 7s. per day. I asked +after his friend “Short and Stout.” He said he +held a similar appointment at an adjoining corner, and he +promised to share my gratuity with him.</p> +<p>The country between Melbourne and Ballarat is flat and +somewhat uninteresting, but near the latter city it becomes more +hilly and diversified. Ballarat is a well-built city, +containing about 40,000 inhabitants. A few years ago there +were 10,000 more, but in consequence of the alluvial gold +becoming exhausted a considerable exodus took place. The +streets are wide, and have trees on each side; in some there are +trees in the middle as well. The houses are substantially +built of stone or brick, and altogether it has the air of being a +busy and prosperous place.</p> +<p>We visited one of the gold mines, and as we approached the +office saw three persons coming towards it, one of them carrying +a parcel, which appeared to be heavy. It proved to be a +brick of gold weighing 33 lbs., and worth about £1,200, +being the result of one week’s <a name="page49"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 49</span>working. We were shown the +various processes of obtaining the gold from the quartz, and were +rather surprised at the somewhat primitive character of the +machinery employed.</p> +<p style="text-align: center"> +<a href="images/p49.jpg"> +<img alt= +"Gold Mine, Ballarat" +title= +"Gold Mine, Ballarat" +src="images/p49.jpg" /> +</a></p> +<p>Several of the companies with big-sounding names occupy spaces +of only 60ft. by 50ft., and yet yield substantial returns. +One such little patch is part of the Church land, and is called +“Hallelujah Claim,” in honour of the Church. +The total value of gold raised in Australia up to end of 1879 was +275 millions sterling.</p> +<p>One of the prettiest features of this handsome city is a fine +sheet of water called Lake Wendouree. This lake is about a +mile across, and lies in the crater of an extinct volcano. +The Botanical Gardens are on the farther side of Wendouree, which +has a fine boulevard round each side leading thereto. On +the lake are <a name="page50"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +50</span>several pretty little steamers, which make frequent +excursions. In the evening they are provided with coloured +lamps, and music and dances may be enjoyed by the +passengers. Ballarat is less than thirty years old, yet has +quite an old-world appearance. It is a charming city and +well worth a visit, and we were well pleased to have seen it.</p> +<p>A favourite excursion from Melbourne is to the Black Spur +Mountains, about two days’ drive from the city. +Leaving Melbourne the route passes through some miles of suburban +villa residences with beautiful gardens. After about ten +miles “the bush” is reached, and continues for the +remainder of the journey, relieved here and there by a clearing +or by a little village. The term “bush” must +not be understood as scrub, furze, etc., but all kinds of +uncultivated land, thick forests, and open country. A +curious feature of colonial life is to see in full operation the +old stage coaches, so long ago discarded in England. They +are painted a brilliant red, and indeed appear to be the +veritable machines used in the “good old days when George +the Third was king.” They are frequently drawn by six +or more horses, and, true to their ancient traditions, now and +then have a spill, for roadmakers in the Colonies have the same +habit as their English brethren of making short “right +about turns” at the bottom of steep hills. We drew up +at a small wayside inn, intending to bait the horses, but found +it was closed, owing to the death of the landlord. This man +was a large wine grower, and his vineyards extended for a +considerable distance round his house. After passing +through many miles of country under vine cultivation we <a +name="page51"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 51</span>pulled up for +the night at a little village called Healesville, where a very +miscellaneous company sat down to a substantial repast, ending +with what the waiter called a “soafler.” The +light being dim it was difficult to see what the dish really was, +and curiosity being awakened, inquiry elicited the fact that it +was intended for a soufflé. The hotel being quite +full of visitors, two of our party had to sleep in the parlour on +sofas of the horse-hair order. The landlord, coming in to +see if we were all right, informed us we could not have our boots +cleaned in the morning, as his man was just then out on a +boose. A colonial friend travelling with us remarked that +it was “awkward when master or man took to +boosing.” Our friend had previously told us that the +landlord was generally “on that line.” +“You never saw me boosy!” said he. +“<i>Never</i>!” retorted our friend, with peculiar +emphasis, which summarily stopped the discussion. We were +awakened early in the morning by the screams of laughing +jackasses and the crowing of cocks. Our toilette was +performed somewhat under difficulties, one of us having to use +the piano as a washstand, and another being constrained to go +through the same operation in the open street under the hotel +verandah. Our route now lay over a steep hill, through a +forest of gum trees, the fragrance arising from the latter in the +early morning air being delightfully refreshing. The main +roads are kept very fairly, a certain number of men being told +off for each section at 9s. per day wages. The old corduroy +roads, formed by laying trees across the track and filling the +interstices with earth, are being gradually superseded by +Macadam. The men seemed <a name="page52"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 52</span>to work in very leisurely +fashion. We were to have breakfasted at a cottage on the +road, but when we arrived there found that the old lady who kept +it had gone to a ball at some village public-house, several miles +away, as also had the owners of all the other cottages along the +route. A little girl left in charge told us that after the +ball all these good people were going to the funeral of the wine +grower and innkeeper previously mentioned, and our friend told us +they would doubtless stay there to comfort the widow as long as +there was any wine left in the house. We soon after entered +the region of the big gum trees and of the tree ferns, and a +wonderfully beautiful sight it was.</p> +<p style="text-align: center"> +<a href="images/p52.jpg"> +<img alt= +"A Big Tree" +title= +"A Big Tree" +src="images/p52.jpg" /> +</a></p> +<p>The whole valley is filled with tree ferns, and the fronds, in +many cases being new, with the sunlight falling upon them, formed +a picture not soon to be forgotten. <a +name="page53"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 53</span>Some of the +gum trees were enormously large—we saw several 15ft. in +diameter and over 200ft. in height—but these were small +when compared with some found in the less frequented parts. +In the midst of such surroundings lies the pretty little village +of Fernshaw. When we were first invited to spend a week at +the country house of our friend we rather unreasonably pictured +in our minds an English country or seaside residence, and +anticipated much pleasure in the change from dusty +Melbourne. Our surprise was great, therefore, when after +jolting over some half-formed roads we came upon a clearing among +the gum trees, and were told that the wooden shanty before us was +the Melbourne citizen’s country house. We were not +disposed, however, to be very critical, for the sixty miles drive +in the mountain air had made us hungry, and we were quite ready +to respond to the invitation to the evening meal. But our +disillusion was complete upon entering the sitting room and +finding that no provision had been made for the satisfying of our +keen appetites. By some accident the supplies from +Melbourne had not arrived; the rough table was covered with a +couple of towels, and on it was spread a repast consisting of +some bad bread and sour raspberry jam, while the “cup which +cheers but not inebriates” was innocent of milk and +sugar. It was Saturday evening and we were “out of +humanity’s reach,” being many miles from any source +of supply, so had to content ourselves as best we might with this +Spartan fare until the Monday, when our host proposed an +excursion to a distant part, involving the staying a night at an +hotel. We gladly embraced the proposal, and finding that +the <a name="page54"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 54</span>hotel +was a comfortable one I determined to excuse myself from joining +in the excursion on the following day in order that I might have +the opportunity of recruiting nature’s exhausted powers by +an extra meal, a resolution I had much satisfaction in carrying +into effect. Our friend and his sons own about one thousand +acres, at present covered with trees, with the exception of a +small clearing round the house. When a piece of land is +taken, the first care is to fence it, which is done with logs, at +a cost of £25 per mile, including the cutting of the +logs. The next step is to “ring” the +trees—that is, to cut a deep groove round them, and so by +killing them prevent any further exhaustion of the soil. +The trees being dead, vegetation rapidly springs up, and there is +soon abundance of food for cattle. Clearing the ground of +trees and stumps is a very costly operation, and takes many years +to finally accomplish. The Government with a view of +preventing the accumulation of lands in a few hands, refuse to +sell more than 320 acres to one person, but of course this is +easily evaded. At the time of our visit the price was +£1 per acre, payable in ten years by equal instalments, a +condition being that some one should reside upon the +allotment. At the end of three years the owner can obtain +from Government a lease of the land, and can then pay up the full +value, which leaves him at liberty to sell if he wishes to do +so. Of course the building up of large estates is thus +encouraged, but this could, perhaps, be prevented by imposing a +tax on every acre. The 20,000 acre men would soon be +compelled to dispose of some of the land which they hold in the +expectation that it will <a name="page56"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 56</span>increase in value. Such a plan +has been proposed, but it naturally met with great opposition +from the landed interest.</p> +<p style="text-align: center"> +<a href="images/p55.jpg"> +<img alt= +"On the Black Spur" +title= +"On the Black Spur" +src="images/p55.jpg" /> +</a></p> +<p>Leaving our friend’s house a drive of a few miles +through the bush brought us to the picturesquely-situated village +of Marysville. This little village lies in a deep hollow +surrounded by fine ranges of tree-clad hills of extreme +beauty. A pleasant hour’s walk from the village, +under the shade of the tree ferns, took us to the Stephenson +Falls. The principal fall is 80ft., and the volume of water +is unusually large for an Australian waterfall. Close to +the fall are some magnificently large tree ferns, and while +sitting here enjoying the lovely view some little birds came +flitting about, one of them hopping on to the shoulder of one of +our party, attracted, doubtless, by the aroma of a fragrant +“weed” which at the time he was enjoying. +English visitors to Australia, especially those in search of +health, would find the conditions existing at Marysville most +conducive to their restoration. The air is bracing, and as +before stated, the scenery most delightful. A tolerably +good accommodation is to be had at the inn, which will doubtless +be improved as the place becomes more widely known.</p> +<p>Returning to Melbourne, we stayed another night at +Healesville, arriving at 7.30, and as we had fared badly during +the day we were quite ready for a substantial dinner, and from +our previous experience of the house made no doubt of obtaining +it. But unfortunately for us, there had been a chapel +tea-party during the afternoon, at which a large force of parsons +had been present. We had therefore to be content with a +tough, <a name="page58"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +58</span>woody steak, a wild duck of ancient and fish-like smell, +varied by salted mutton. The butter was rancid and full of +dead flies, and the bread appeared to have been cast upon the +waters. We had to go to bed feeling quite faint, but hoping +for a better breakfast. The beds were good, and we should +have had a good night’s rest, which we sorely needed after +the twig beds of the previous night at the Marysville Hotel, but +the partitions between the rooms being only of half-inch plank +everything passing around us could be heard all too +plainly. A little after midnight some fellows came in from +night-fishing, and going into the room next ours woke us up by a +great noise. One old donkey was telling the two younger +ones he had had a deal of experience among snakes, killing as +many as eight a day for many years, and that as the result of a +series of experiments during that time he had found an infallible +cure for snake bites. He had offered his discovery to the +Government for £1,000, and his partner offered to be +poisoned by the most deadly snakes to test its efficacy, but all +to no purpose. So he had determined to let the secret die +with him. The others asked if the sovereign remedy was to +be swallowed. “Oh, no,” said the old fellow, +“for it is composed of five deadly poisons. You must +first cut out the wounded part, and rub the antidote in. +But,” added he, “the secret shall now die with +me.” “But how about your partner?” asked +the others. “Won’t he tell the +secret?” “Oh no,” was the reply; +“he’s safe enough, for he’s dead.” +Then we heard the voice of the landlord’s pretty daughter +telling them it was time to go to sleep, upon which the old boy +growled, <a name="page59"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +59</span>“I wonder people can’t go to sleep without +bothering me.” The rest of the night was made +miserable for us by the two “night fishers,” who, +rising long before dawn, went prowling about the different rooms, +ours included, collecting their tackle for a shooting expedition, +but leaving behind them, as we found afterwards, their percussion +caps.</p> +<p style="text-align: center"> +<a href="images/p57.jpg"> +<img alt= +"The Lyre Bird" +title= +"The Lyre Bird" +src="images/p57.jpg" /> +</a></p> +<p>We returned to Melbourne by another route, affording us some +fine views of the plains called Yarra Flats, and the Marysville +Hills in the far distance.</p> +<h2><a name="page60"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +60</span>CHAPTER IV.</h2> +<p>At the end of January we left Melbourne for a few weeks’ +tour in Tasmania, taking steamer from the wharf on the Yarra +Yarra, the river upon which the capital of Victoria is +situated.</p> +<p>The banks of the Yarra have been selected as the scene of the +operations of all the most offensive trades in the +colony—the bone boilers, tanners, fellmongers, candle +makers, chemical manure makers, glue manufacturers, etc., in +addition to which all the sewage which is not left on the surface +of the streets is run into it. The river is very narrow, +the fall to the sea extremely slight, and the traffic great, +hence at every revolution of the paddle-wheel or screw-propeller +the abominations from the depths below are stirred up and mingled +with those coming from the before-named savoury factories, +forming a more horrible compound than ever proceeded from +witches’ cauldron. In this one respect the New World +has certainly shot far ahead of the old, for even the memory of +ancient Cologne is made savoury to the nostrils by this colonial +stench.</p> +<p><a name="page61"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 61</span>Our +friends came to say good-bye, and brought quite a sack of peaches +and apricots, which were very acceptable during the voyage. +If there were on board any roysterers or betting men they had no +opportunity for displaying their peculiarities. Until we +reached the entrance to the river Tamar almost every person on +board was ill, for Bass’s Straits is notorious for its +disagreeable cross seas.</p> +<p>Launceston is forty miles up the river, and is the capital of +the county of Cornwall, as in England. The scenery along +the river banks is very beautiful, and is so exactly like the +Truro river at home that it is difficult to believe we are out of +England. The river is winding and broad, and the shores +slope gently down from high ground covered with trees. Here +and there are bright green meadows and villages and scattered +farmsteads and churches. I saw nothing in Victoria to +compare with it.</p> +<p>Launceston, a quiet city of 10,000 inhabitants, is surrounded +by hills. Looking down upon it, one is reminded of Florence +from Fiesole, the beautiful climate and clear air being quite +Italian, with the lovely Tamar winding its circuitous route for +miles away. We drove out towards a place called the +“Devil’s Punch Bowl,” walking the last mile +through a beautiful wood down a hill, with firs, gum trees, etc., +in abundance, with here and there delightful glimpses of green +glades. The air was filled with the sounds of the tree +locusts and the tremendous hissing noise of the cicadas, the sun +shining through the trees and producing a temperature and light +which were simply perfect. The only drawback is the +presence of snakes, which, our driver said, are very <a +name="page62"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 62</span>abundant +here. The scene is truly English. At the bottom of +the little wooded valley we came upon an old wooden shanty, where +we tried to get a glass of milk, but there was no one at +home. Presently an old man appeared, driving cows. We +asked him for milk—he had none, but gave us water, and +offered raw eggs. My companion took two, and said he liked +them, but I am sure he liked the first best. The old man +was seventy-three years of age, and lived there alone, sleeping +on a door covered with an opossum rug. He told us his +master died there close by the bee-hives a few weeks ago, +“so,” said he, “I put the bees in deep +mourning, or they would all have left.”</p> +<p>I wrote my notes sitting on a gatepost, out of the way of +snakes; the moon shone brightly, and in the distance I could hear +the church bells, mingled with the voices of children, the +tinkling of cowbells, and barking of dogs.</p> +<p>The shops close at six o’clock, but the public-houses of +course remain open. I observed a small fruit-shop, a mere +shanty, with the sign of “Pomona’s Temple,” and +a hairdresser’s saloon with the high-sounding name of +“Tonsorial Palace,” while a democratic opponent in +the same street, with a proud humility, called his place of +business a “Barber’s Shop.”</p> +<p>Strolling in the town one evening I talked with a policeman, +who was an almost exact counterpart of Count Moltke. He had +just received his new regulation helmet, and did not like it at +all: it was hard and heavy. He was very pleased to hear we +liked Tasmania better than Victoria. “Ah,” said +he, “you will find real hospitality here; here everybody +helps everybody, but <a name="page63"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 63</span>in Melbourne everybody helps himself, +and the bobby or somebody catches the hindmost.” He +said he had been a policeman for twenty years, and, +“although I say it as shouldn’t, I will say for the +Launceston police, they are the most civillest, honestest body of +policemen going,” with which I quite agreed.</p> +<p>Another beautiful ride is to the Cora Linn, seven miles from +Launceston. On one side of the road, stretching almost the +whole distance, is a hedge of sweetbriar, giving forth delicious +perfume. It is difficult to get accustomed to the reversal +of the seasons; here in February the farmers are busy cutting and +saving their corn, but with no fear of rain to spoil their +harvest, as in England. A bridge crosses the Linn, and a +cataract-like stream tumbles down over rocks, very much like the +Lynn at Lynmouth. Below the bridge is a deep basin, and all +around are numbers of queer trees, young and old, with many +burnt-out trunks black as negroes, with white spots in them like +eyes. The trees and shrubs are full of <i>cicadas</i> +making a great noise.</p> +<p>Leaving Launceston, we drove to Falmouth, ninety miles +away. The road lies through a beautifully-wooded country; +indeed, the entire ride is just like going through a park in +England. We saw lots of magpies, very much larger than +ours, but quite as mischievous. A gentleman told us a +person once asked him to change a sovereign, which he did, and +then looked for the sovereign, but it could not be seen. +Presently, looking up, he saw Master Mag in a shrub, with one eye +shut, his head on one side, and standing on one leg, with the +piece of gold in his mouth.</p> +<p><a name="page64"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 64</span>Our +first night’s stopping-place was at Stoney Creek, where +there is a comfortable hotel, just like a private house, with +only one other house for miles around. Near to the hotel +flows the River Esk, a black, silent, swiftly-flowing and +suicidal-looking stream, suggestive in its motion of some huge +black snake, of which there are many in the neighbourhood. +In crossing a field to look at the river our clothes became +covered with burrs and spines from the prickly pear. We sat +down on a grassy mound to watch the flowing of the river, but had +quickly to move, as we found ourselves in the midst of a colony +of great ants. The following verses were written on the +occasion by one of my companions:</p> +<p style="text-align: center"> +<a href="images/p64.jpg"> +<img alt= +"THE DOCTOR CONTEMPLATES—A POEM" +title= +"THE DOCTOR CONTEMPLATES—A POEM" +src="images/p64.jpg" /> +</a></p> +<blockquote><p style="text-align: center"><a +name="page65"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 65</span>THOU AND +I.</p> +<p>Thou art in happy England<br /> + With peace, content, and joy,<br /> +And there no poisonous reptiles<br /> + Thy comfort can destroy;<br /> +No hissing sound the startled ear<br /> + With fear of death awakes—<br /> +Thou art in happy England,<br /> + I, in the land of snakes.</p> +<p>About thy household duties<br /> + Serenely thou canst go,<br /> +No fear of fierce tarantulas<br /> + Or scorpion brings thee woe;<br /> +And day by day flows calmly on,<br /> + And sleep wings through the night—<br /> +Thou art in happy England,<br /> + I, where mosquitos bite.</p> +<p>Thou hast the trusty faithful dog,<br /> + The quiet, harmless cat,<br /> +But I the fierce Tasmanian D—,<br /> + Opossum, and wombat;<br /> +Familiar objects greet thy sight,<br /> + Here all is strange and new—<br /> +Thou art in happy England,<br /> + I, with the kangaroo.</p> +<p>Thou hast the blithe canary,<br /> + The robin chirps to thee,<br /> +While here the magpies chatter<br /> + And rail from every tree;<br /> +Bright parrots glint beneath the sun,<br /> + And shriek their hideous song—<br /> +Thou art in happy England,<br /> + I, wattle-birds among.</p> +<p>Thou canst recline in any place,<br /> + And watch the moments pass,<br /> +Here burrs and prickles fill the clothes<br /> + While lying on the grass,<br /> +They stick into the flesh, and sting<br /> + Like gnat, or wasp, or bee—<br /> +But thou in happy England<br /> + From all such plagues art free.</p> +<p><a name="page66"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 66</span>Hurrah +for happy England,<br /> + For all the folk at home!<br /> +From hill and dale resounds the cry,<br /> + No matter where we roam.<br /> +Rare scenes of beauty greet the sight,<br /> + The balmy air is sweet,<br /> +But still I sigh for England<br /> + Where thou and I shall meet.</p> +<p>DR. L—.</p> +</blockquote> +<p>The landlady was a widow, her husband having recently +died. Her son had just returned from sea, where he had been +for twelve years. He had been wrecked three times, and the +last time should have given him enough of the sea for the rest of +his life. It was in the ship “Euxine,” taking +3,000 tons of coal to the Mauritius. She took fire off the +Cape of Good Hope in the midst of a terrific storm. The +captain was washed overboard and drowned; a sailor was also swept +away, and while only twenty feet from the ship was attacked by a +flock of albatrosses, right in sight of his comrades. He +fought with them, but all in vain, and the wretches literally +pulled him in pieces with their strong bills in a very few +minutes. The crew got out the boats, but of course they +were in a bad state. It was, however, a choice between +burning and drowning, so they put off, preferring to risk the +latter. After two or three days, two of the boats were +picked up, but the third was out for eleven days. The poor +wretches on board had nothing whatever to eat, and in their +extremity were driven to cast lots which among them should +die. One unhappy man was disposed of, and in two hours +after a ship came in sight and picked them up.</p> +<p><a name="page67"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 67</span>A +lovely drive through Epping Forest brought us to Avoca, where +“the bright waters meet,” the North and South Esk +uniting here. Our route lay along a fine road, through +avenues of gum trees, wattles (acacias), cultivated for their +bark, the sweetbriars and hawthorns scenting the air +delightfully. We saw a splendid eagle, and large numbers of +parrots, magpies, and hawks.</p> +<p style="text-align: center"> +<a href="images/p67.jpg"> +<img alt= +"Avoca" +title= +"Avoca" +src="images/p67.jpg" /> +</a></p> +<p>On our way we passed many residences of great woolgrowers, +owning as much as 20,000 acres of land each, but living, for the +most part, in England, their affairs in the Colony being managed +by agents. They keep only one man on each 5,000 +acres. There is scarcely any agriculture, although the land +is very suitable, but being taken up in this way, there is no +room for population to increase, and the people have to +emigrate.</p> +<p>At Fingal we stopped at an hotel, kept by an Irishman married +to a Jewess. They presided at either end of the table, and +kept us short of food; indeed, I never saw a <a +name="page68"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 68</span>small joint +go so far before. Next day we left the hotel, still hungry, +although the charges were quite as high as those at the Great +Western Hotel, Paddington.</p> +<p>Soon after leaving Fingal we saw something by the roadside +which looked very like a snake, and on examining it we found it +was one—a black snake, 4ft. 6in. long. It lay +perfectly still, and presently we found it was dead; but the +sensation was not pleasant. A gentleman at the hotel told +us he had killed four the night previously, and doubtless this +was one of them.</p> +<p style="text-align: center"><a name="page69"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 69</span> +<a href="images/p68.jpg"> +<img alt= +"St. Mary’s" +title= +"St. Mary’s" +src="images/p68.jpg" /> +</a></p> +<p>After passing through the charming village of St. +Mary’s, embowered in trees, we entered a lovely avenue, two +miles in length, filled with beautiful flowers and ferns, the air +laden with scents from the gum and other trees, and on emerging +came upon St. Mary’s Pass. This is an immense gorge, +four miles long, filled with fine trees, the road, which is +remarkably good, being cut in the side of the cliff by convicts +in the old days of Van Diemen’s Land. It winds down +the valley to the sea at Falmouth, and on either side rise lofty +hills, while the valley below is 1,000 feet deep, and filled with +immense trees of various kinds, including the tree fern. I +have seen most of the passes and valleys in the Tyrol, but have +never seen one to excel this in grandeur or beauty.</p> +<p style="text-align: center"> +<a href="images/p69.jpg"> +<img alt= +"Falmouth Hotel" +title= +"Falmouth Hotel" +src="images/p69.jpg" /> +</a></p> +<p>In the map the word “Falmouth” was printed in +rather large letters, so we expected to find a somewhat +considerable place. At the head of the pass we were told +the township lay between the foot of the hill and the sea. +On getting down the hill we could plainly view the sea and the +intervening land, but no town was visible. Inquiring of +some little boys the way to Falmouth, they directed us away to +the right. We went on, feeling assured we were going wrong; +and presently, meeting a gentleman, we inquired again, when he +told <a name="page70"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 70</span>us to +retrace our course, to go through an ordinary field gate, and +that we should then get to Falmouth in three minutes! We +told him that the little boys had directed us the other way, but +he said we should have asked for “Hotel.” The +town of Falmouth, where the boys lived, consisted of two or three +houses, and was a mile from the hotel. On exploring the +place next day we were informed that fifty years before it was +much more important than now. Miles of streets were marked +out, but were grass-grown, and there were not more than a dozen +houses in the place, all built of wood, and of one storey in +height. The burying-place for the district is about a mile +away, on the open common, each grave being surrounded with +stakes, with no wall or fence enclosing the whole. It was a +melancholy sight, reminding me strongly of the graves on the +battlefields of the Franco-German war.</p> +<p style="text-align: center"> +<a href="images/p70.jpg"> +<img alt= +"Burial-Place at Falmouth" +title= +"Burial-Place at Falmouth" +src="images/p70.jpg" /> +</a></p> +<p><a name="page71"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 71</span>The +beach and sands are very fine, like those of my native +county. The bathing is delightful, but you must keep a +sharp look out for sharks. One morning, however, while +bathing, we stood in much greater danger from the mad folly of +some Cockneys who had recently come to the hotel. We had +been bathing in an arm of the sea, the point beyond which it was +not safe being marked by a stake driven into the sand. +Between our bathing place and the hotel was a high sand bank, +screening us from sight, the stake being visible from the +verandah of the hotel. After dressing, we were leisurely +walking up the sandbank towards the hotel, when we were startled +by a bullet passing between our heads and lodging in the sand +behind us! We threw up our towels and shouted, and then saw +the Cockney sportsman standing on the platform under the +verandah, from whence he had been aiming at the stake in the sand +with his rifle for the past half hour. On examination we +found the sand riddled with bullets, not 50ft. from where we had +been bathing. The little burying ground possessed a new +significance in our eyes after this incident. We found some +beautiful sea-shells during a delightful walk along the beach +towards Swansea, and on our return called upon the gentleman who +put us right for Falmouth on our arrival. He is a farmer +from near Oxford, and had been here seven or eight years, finding +it a terribly lonely place. Recently his nine children and +his servants took the measles, and his wife being ill, he had to +nurse them all. When they got well his wife sickened and +died, leaving him with seven daughters and two sons, the eldest +being only fourteen years old. The nearest doctor lived +more than thirty miles away.</p> +<p><a name="page72"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 72</span>In +order to get to Hobart Town, we had to retrace our steps some +sixty miles, as there is only one road on this side of the +island. We stayed a night at Avoca, a charming place, but +the roads were a foot deep in dust. Although the climate is +so fine, and everything favours the growth of fruit, there is +very little grown. It is alleged that fruit trees do not +prosper, but I had ample evidence that the cause is to be found +in the indifference or laziness of the people. Strolling in +the neighbourhood of the village, we came upon a beautiful +orchard, and were admiring the large, ripe plums, when a voice +behind said, “Walk in, gentlemen, and help +yourselves.” The speaker was a hearty old man, who +had lived here forty-six years. He came from Ledbury, and +was much interested in hearing about Birmingham. He told us +that the day before he left England he walked from Ledbury to +Birmingham to see the Nelson statue in the Bull Ring.</p> +<p>The old man told us a snake story, which strikingly +illustrates the vitality of these reptiles. A short time +previously he and his son went across a neighbouring mountain on +horseback to visit one of their farms. Going “single +file” between the trees, the son, who was leading, suddenly +called out to his father, “Look out, there’s a +snake,” and at the same instant his horse started. +The old gentleman got off, and finding it was a “carpet +snake,”—one of the most venomous species—caught +up a stick, and aimed a blow at it. The stick however was +rotten, and broke without hurting the reptile, which now prepared +to strike; but the old man managed to get his heel upon its head, +and ground it into the earth; and having, as he thought, killed +it, tied a <a name="page73"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +73</span>piece of string around its middle, and bending a wattle +tree down, attached the end of the string to one of the branches, +and then released the tree. They thought no more of the +matter until three days after, when two of his men, returning +from his farm with a cart, were seen by their master dragging a +snake behind the cart. He asked them where they caught it; +they explained that while coming down the hill side, their +attention was arrested by a snake in a tree clashing towards +them, but unable to release itself. On examination, they +found it was tied up! “So that after all,” said +the old man, “it was only scotched, not killed.”</p> +<p>A fellow-traveller on the coach told us that he was coming +from the tin mines near Mount Bischoff, and that for some months +he and his partner had slept in hammocks slung from trees. +One night, just as he was going to sleep, something dropped from +the tree across his body. He took it in his hand, and +finding it was a snake, he flung it from him, when it alighted on +his companion. Luckily, both escaped unhurt. He also +told me of the experience of a friend of his, a Government +surveyor, who was frequently in the woods for weeks together, +with one or two men. This gentleman slept in a hammock +suspended from trees. The hammock was in reality a sack, +hanging some feet from the ground, into which he got at +night. One night he had retired as usual, and being very +wearied, did not at once notice that there was independent +movement at his feet. Very soon, however, he realised the +fact that a snake had gone to bed before him, and was coiling +itself round his legs. The gentleman quickly got out, +unhurt, and soon killed the snake.</p> +<p><a name="page74"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 74</span>I also +read in a colonial paper another account of a night adventure +with a snake. A lady had retired to rest, and was fast +asleep; the weather being very hot, one of her arms was outside +the clothes, and during the night she was awakened by feeling +something trying to force its way between her arm and her side; +she quickly realised the situation, and without moving, tightly +pressed her arm against her body and prevented the venomous +reptile from getting between, when presently it glided over her +shoulder and fell on the floor with a thud. She was soon +out of bed at the other end, and calling for help and a light the +snake was quickly despatched.</p> +<p>The doctor in this place has charge of a district sixty miles +in diameter, and always expects his fees before leaving his +house; but although he has so large a district, I question if he +makes his fortune, for although acres are many, people are few, +and the salubrity of the climate does not favour the medical +profession.</p> +<p>The main road between Launceston and Hobart is struck at +Willis’s Corner, a few miles from Campbelltown—the +principal town in the interior of the island. There is a +station here on the main-line railway. The gauge of the +line is thirty-nine inches, I think.</p> +<p>Campbelltown is a straggling place, with streets enough laid +out for a city, but with only few houses, and it is not likely +many more will be built, as the railway is expected to take away +its trade, which depends mainly upon the coach traffic. The +streets are about one hundred and twenty feet wide, which is +greatly in excess of all requirements, and causes the traffic <a +name="page75"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 75</span>to run in +ruts, instead of being distributed over the roadway, giving a +desolate appearance to the whole place. As a rule, the +Tasmanian roads are very good, having been made in the old days +by convict labour, but you must not venture to mention the word +“convict;” the people all speak of these public works +as having been executed by Government. Having had so much +done for them by the Government, the Tasmanian people are lacking +in energy, and are much too prone to rely upon outside help; and +yet when Melbourne people come over to invest capital in mines +and other industries, the cry is that the strangers are taking +all the money out of the country. As I have said, the farms +are of a great size, but the number of men engaged are but +few. The farmers have two great enemies—the thistle +and the rabbit. It is said the former was introduced into +the colonies by a patriotic Scotchman, to remind him of his +bonnie Scotland, the rabbit being introduced for the purpose of +sport; but, like our old friend the sparrow, they have so +increased as to be the cause of serious loss, and are the +subjects of special legislation. Some landowners spend many +thousands of pounds in putting walls around their estates to keep +the rabbits out.</p> +<p>From Campbelltown to Hobart is seventy-six miles, and we rode +the whole distance in a single day. The country is very +beautiful, and towards the end of the journey we had fine +mountain and river scenery. The Derwent is a splendid +river, running through a lovely country, sometimes through rich +pasture lands and hop gardens, and at other times between high +precipices and rugged country.</p> +<p><a name="page76"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 76</span>Mount +Wellington is a remarkably fine mountain of 4,000 feet in height, +and is topped with snow for a considerable portion of the +winter.</p> +<p style="text-align: center"> +<a href="images/p76.jpg"> +<img alt= +"Summit of Mount Wellington" +title= +"Summit of Mount Wellington" +src="images/p76.jpg" /> +</a></p> +<p>Villages are very scarce on the road, and shops few, so the +inhabitants get most of their requirements from hawkers, who +visit all parts of the island with horses and vans, carrying all +kinds of goods. We passed several with their wares spread +out on the ground. Our coachman told us rather a good story +of two of these “merchants,” as they are usually +called. These men travelled the road together as partners, +having a standing agreement between them that only one should get +drunk at a time, so that they were not unfrequently seen riding, +one of them as drunk as a lord or a <a name="page77"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 77</span>fiddler, while the other was +perfectly sober, but merry. One day, however, they broke +the rule, and both got drunk together, letting their horse go +just as it liked. Unhappily, as they were turning a corner +in the road, a coach came bowling along and ran into them, +breaking their van and many of their bones, besides spoiling most +of their stock-in-trade. The coachman could not tell us if +the accident had the effect of making the men teetotallers.</p> +<p style="text-align: center"> +<a href="images/p77.jpg"> +<img alt= +"View in the Public Gardens, Hobart" +title= +"View in the Public Gardens, Hobart" +src="images/p77.jpg" /> +</a></p> +<p>Hobart (as Hobart Town is now called) is most beautifully +situated, with extensive public gardens, charmingly laid out, and +having the advantage of an abundance of water from the River +Derwent. The Governor’s house is admirably placed, +commanding extensive views of river and mountain scenery. +The citizens are exceedingly hospitable, and we were not long at +the hotel before we were visited by a gentleman who informed us +he had entered our names on the books of the principal club, and +also invited us to a grand representation of +“Martha.” There are many charming excursions in +the neighbourhood of Hobart. One of <a +name="page78"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 78</span>the most +beautiful is to New Norfolk, about two and a half hours’ +steam up the Derwent river. As we approach New Norfolk the +river gets very narrow, and we pass through a part called +“Hell Gates,” having steep lofty cliffs on one side, +and a beautiful tongue of land with trees and lovely green grass +on the other. The name I thought particularly ill +chosen.</p> +<p>The village of New Norfolk is prettily situated among the +hills, with the lovely Derwentwater at its feet. Its +principal industry is the growing of hops. We went into the +gardens, and saw the people busily picking the hops, which were +very fine.</p> +<p>Another beautiful excursion is to Fern Tree Valley, a lovely +spot with a fine avenue of tree ferns, and with many immense gum +trees in the surrounding woods.</p> +<p>There being no steamer to Sydney or Melbourne for a week, we +drove over the road to Launceston, 120 miles distant. Soon +after leaving Hobart we crossed the River Jordan, passed through +Jericho, near to Jerusalem, stopping at Bagdad for breakfast.</p> +<p>Although February had just gone, the weather was still +intensely hot. The harvest was nearly over, and the wheat +looked beautiful. I saw some eight feet high, and a person +told me he had frequently seen it grow as high as ten feet. +Lunching at Melton Mowbray, we came on to Oatlands, driving the +last few miles by moonlight, the night being very cool.</p> +<p>At Oatlands is a large gaol, where in old times a number of +England’s sons were confined, many of them having been sent +there for political “offences,” which in our happier +times have conducted the best <a name="page79"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 79</span>of Englishmen to the Council Board at +Windsor. The gaol is now almost untenanted. In +passing along we saw the ruins of many of the miserable old +barracks, where the convicts used to live. Everything looks +half finished, and I have scarcely seen one window blind +furnished with cords for winding; they roll them up and pin them, +consequently the blind is full of pin holes. We stopped a +night at the best hotel in Campbelltown, a really well-appointed +house; but on trying to open the front door, the knob came off in +my hand! We greatly enjoyed our three weeks’ stay in +Tasmania; in many respects it is more interesting than the +mainland, while the climate is much more agreeable to +Englishmen. A pleasant passage of twenty hours brought us +to Melbourne again, and the weather being still very hot, we +decided to go on to Sydney by steamer.</p> +<p style="text-align: center"> +<a href="images/p79.jpg"> +<img alt= +"Our Waiter at Campbelltown" +title= +"Our Waiter at Campbelltown" +src="images/p79.jpg" /> +</a></p> +<h2><a name="page80"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +80</span>CHAPTER V.</h2> +<p>The run down Hobson’s Bay to Port Philip Heads takes +about four hours, and just inside the mouth of the harbour are +two little watering-places, much frequented by the citizens of +Melbourne.</p> +<p>Presently we come to a curious feature in the water. The +currents of the bay and those of the open sea meet, and produce +at their junction the phenomenon locally known as “The +Rip.” All at once, as the steamer comes out of the +bay, we pass from smooth water into the regular waves of the sea; +there is almost a wall between, and as the vessel passes through +it a rushing sound is heard, the vessel instantly beginning to +roll and pitch. In rough weather passing through “The +Rip” is quite exciting, the water frequently rushing over +the decks.</p> +<p style="text-align: center"> +<a href="images/p81.jpg"> +<img alt= +"Sydney Harbour" +title= +"Sydney Harbour" +src="images/p81.jpg" /> +</a></p> +<p>After a voyage of a little more than two days, we arrived +outside the heads of Port Jackson or Sydney Harbour. +Everyone has heard of the extreme beauty <a +name="page82"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 82</span>of this +glorious harbour; indeed if the visitor stays a few days in the +city he is likely to hear of it many times. The entrance is +about a mile in width, between bold cliffs 250 feet in +height. It has a coast line of more than 100 miles, and is +full of beautiful creeks and bays, with their banks finely wooded +to the water’s edge, and having numerous handsome villas +picturesquely placed upon every point of vantage, the city being +situated at the head of the bay. The old town of Sydney is +very badly laid out, with narrow, crooked streets, while the +pavements and roads are most execrable, and the drainage and +water supply are as bad as they can well be. The public +buildings, and the modern portion of the city, are very fine, the +post-office in particular being a very handsome edifice, +infinitely superior to the new post-office in Birmingham; but +then the citizens of Sydney built their own, while the citizens +of Birmingham were not consulted, and had to accept what the +London architect was graciously pleased to bestow.</p> +<p>Next to the harbour, the public gardens of Sydney form its +principal attraction. The Botanical Gardens are exceedingly +fine, and contain a magnificent collection of almost every known +tree that will stand the climate. A special feature is the +Norfolk Island pine, which grows to a great height, perfectly +straight, and with very regular branches. The gardens are +finely situated on undulating ground, sloping down to the +harbour, which is sufficiently deep 200 yards off to float +men-of-war. From these gardens a fine view of the +Governor’s house and of other parts of the city is +obtained. There is also a beautiful view from the +Observatory Hill, which the Sydney people are justly <a +name="page83"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 83</span>proud of, for +it can scarcely be equalled in any other part of the world. +The harbour, with its numerous islands, lies spread out before +the eyes, while the greatest animation is given to the scene by +the large number of little steamers, yachts, and sail-boats +continually flitting about, for the youth of Sydney are truly +British in their love of the water. While we were admiring +this panorama one morning, an old gentleman, observing we were +strangers, pointed out the various objects of interest. +Presently one of our party observing a strange cloud in the +hitherto cloudless sky, called the old man’s attention to +it. At first he thought it was a bush fire away to the +south, but in a minute he said, “Come on, we had better get +under shelter, for it is a ‘southerly +buster!’”</p> +<p>A “southerly buster” is one of the institutions of +Sydney, and is a hurricane of wind: which comes up suddenly from +the south, bringing clouds of dust from the brickfields lying on +that side of the city. We had long been wishing to see a +genuine example, and here it was with a vengeance. In less +time than it takes to describe, the whole city and harbour were +completely obscured by a tremendous cloud of dust, blown on at a +great pace, roaring like a furnace, and carrying before it +sticks, paper, and even small gravel, which strike with the force +of hailstones. During the twenty minutes which the +hurricane lasts umbrellas are perfectly useless, and every person +and thing becomes completely covered with dust. Having +experienced the “buster” once, we have no desire for +a repetition.</p> +<p>Sydney is fortunate in possessing almost inexhaustible +supplies of oysters, and the old gentleman referred <a +name="page84"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 84</span>to above told +us they sometimes grew on trees! There is a tree called the +Mangrove, which grows very plentifully on the banks of the +Parramatta river; sometimes the water is very high for days +together, and the oyster spawn gets fixed in the mud on the +branches, and so they grow and are gathered in their season.</p> +<p>One of the most delightful excursions from Sydney is to the +top of the Blue Mountains, where there are several villages and +some exceedingly fine and interesting scenery. The summit +of the mountains is about 3,500ft. above sea-level, and is +seventy miles from Sydney, being reached by a picturesque zigzag +railway. In the old convict days it was commonly supposed +by the prisoners that China lay on the other side of the Blue +Mountain range, and many of the wretched men lost their lives in +the jungle in trying to escape to the celestial country; one +party succeeded in getting to a considerable distance before the +guard overtook them, and one of them was found to have in his +possession an engraving of a compass, by which he expected to +steer his way!</p> +<p>The railway from Sydney passes many charming villages and +extensive orange groves, crossing the River Nepean by a handsome +iron bridge.</p> +<p>Some of the hotels on the mountain are of a very primitive +character. One of those in which we stayed was a +single-storied building, with bed-rooms opening into the +yard. The house was built of planks, and the partitions +were not very thick. I found that the landlord was the +brother of an English tradesman with whom I do business. +They had not heard of one another <a name="page86"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 86</span>for forty years, which was a +suspicious circumstance, considering the history of the +colony.</p> +<p style="text-align: center"> +<a href="images/p85.jpg"> +<img alt= +"Cottage at Mount Victoria" +title= +"Cottage at Mount Victoria" +src="images/p85.jpg" /> +</a></p> +<p>In the fireplace of our sitting room we found a +“gin” set for rats, which during the night were quite +lively. One morning we observed that our waiter seemed to +be very anxious for us to finish our breakfast. Presently +he asked if we had finished with the coffee-pot, saying that all +the others had been sent to be mended, and as he had a rather +particular couple in the next room, he did not like to take in +the coffee in a tea-pot!</p> +<p>At Mount Victoria, the highest village on the mountain, there +are good State schools, to which the children come for +twenty-five miles round from the villages along the +railway. Both schools and railways in New South Wales +belong to the State, and the schoolchildren are allowed to ride +free by all trains. Even the goods trains have carriages +attached for the use of the children, and the school hours are +arranged to enable them to take advantage of the trains. +Mount Victoria is a beautiful village, where many of the wealthy +citizens of Sydney have charming residences. It has quite +an alpine appearance with its wooden houses and tree-clad +hills. In the neighbourhood are many delightful places, to +which excursions are made; one of the most interesting is to a +waterfall called “Govett’s Leap.” The +road is a very rough one, and goes through the forest, in which +are numbers of large ant-hills more than 5ft. in height, and +formed of clay, which has become so hard that a stick makes no +impression upon them. The entrances for the little +creatures are very narrow cracks, too narrow for any of <a +name="page87"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 87</span>their enemies +to get through. Sometimes, however, a creature called the +“iguana” manages to make its way inside, when he +always clears the entire colony out.</p> +<p style="text-align: center"> +<a href="images/p87.jpg"> +<img alt= +"The Weatherboard Falls" +title= +"The Weatherboard Falls" +src="images/p87.jpg" /> +</a></p> +<p>After a few miles’ drive along an almost level road, we +come suddenly upon the edge of a precipice nearly 1,000 feet +deep, down which the stream falls forming the waterfall. +The “leap” is about 500 feet, and almost all the +water becomes spray before it reaches the bottom, its appearance +reminding us of the Staubbach Falls at Lauterbrunnen.</p> +<p>From the precipice a fine view is obtained for many miles +round. The country is broken up into deep <a +name="page88"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 88</span>ravines or +wide gullies, stretching as far as the eye can reach, and all +wooded, while, except the little waterfall, not a drop of water +is to be seen.</p> +<p>On the other side of Mount Victoria, towards Bathurst, is +another curious zigzag railway, at the foot of which is the +village of Lithgow, the seat of iron and coal industries. +At present the works are of a very primitive character, but I +have no doubt that at no distant date they will assume important +proportions.</p> +<p style="text-align: center"> +<a href="images/p88.jpg"> +<img alt= +"Descent to Hartley Vale" +title= +"Descent to Hartley Vale" +src="images/p88.jpg" /> +</a></p> +<p>Outside our hotel door the landlord kept his talking parrot, +which was always saying to the passers-by, “a bucket of +beer, a bucket of beer.” There was a retired +missionary staying at the hotel with his wife, and one day the +old lady told me that she thought they might have taught the poor +thing something “more Christian.”</p> +<p><a name="page89"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 89</span>One +evening some drovers from Bathurst camped for the night near to +the hotel; they put their cattle into a field, and having taken +their tents from the packhorses, soon made themselves comfortable +round their camp-fires, the whole scene being very picturesque +and gipsy-like.</p> +<p>This used to be the old coach-road before the railway was +opened, and many a coach has been stopped and robbed by gangs of +escaped convicts called bushrangers. People were easily +frightened in those days. A woman coming out of a cottage +at night has been known to stop a coach, and snapping the spring +of an old candlestick has ordered the passengers to “bail +up” and to throw the mail-bags out, which being done under +terror of the supposed pistol, she commanded them to drive on; +the coachman of course supposing there was a gang of ruffians +lying in wait.</p> +<p>Bushrangers are not yet a thing of the past, for while we were +in Sydney four were sentenced to death for the murder of a +policeman, who was one of a party sent in pursuit of the +gang.</p> +<p>Hard by our hotel is a solitary graveyard, where lie the +bodies of many convicts who died while confined in a neighbouring +stockade in the old transportation days. A more desolate +and melancholy place it would be impossible to imagine. +Some of the public-houses have queer mottoes on their sign +boards. We observed three not far apart having these +inscriptions: “Labour in Vain,” “The Leisure +Hour,” “The Rag and Famish.” A favourite +drink amongst the people is sarsaparilla, which is generally +mentioned on the sign along with the beer.</p> +<p><a name="page90"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 90</span>There +are two kinds of birds in the woods about Mount Victoria which +make a great noise at night; one is called the “Great Goat +Sucker,” and continually cries “more pork, more +pork”; while the other, called the “Laughing +Jackass,” or the great kingfisher, makes night hideous by +its insane laughter; in the day-time, however, it performs a very +useful service, in waging perpetual war against the snakes.</p> +<p style="text-align: center"> +<a href="images/p90.jpg"> +<img alt= +"The Laughing Jackass" +title= +"The Laughing Jackass" +src="images/p90.jpg" /> +</a></p> +<p>The ants in Australia are rather formidable creatures. +Some of them are more than an inch in length, and one kind, +called the “bull-dog,” is very fierce, and will +attack anything; he can run backwards or forwards with equal +facility, and never turns his back to the foe. <a +name="page91"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 91</span>Their hills +are very large, and a slight tap brings numbers of them out at +once, and unless you want to be well punished, you had better +leave them quickly, for their bite is something to be +remembered. One morning while on a walk we observed two +boys “prodding” an ant-hill; but by the time we had +come up to them we found them otherwise engaged, for the +“bulldogs” had got up their clothes and were causing +the boys to jump about as though they were +“possessed;” occasionally they would pause and rub +their legs with great devotion; and altogether it was apparent +they felt their position keenly. As we passed them they +gave us a ghastly smile, and I think they will let +“sleeping bull-dogs lie” in the future.</p> +<p style="text-align: center"> +<a href="images/p91.jpg"> +<img alt= +"The Author Sketching" +title= +"The Author Sketching" +src="images/p91.jpg" /> +</a></p> +<p><a name="page92"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 92</span>During +one of my visits to Sydney the political situation was +this:—Two questions were before the Parliament and +country—viz., an Amended Education Act, and an Excise Act, +by which latter it was proposed to put a tax upon colonial +beer.</p> +<p>“It happens that a vacancy has occurred in an important +constituency, and as these questions are greatly agitating the +whole country, the election is looked forward to with great +interest as being a sort of test of the public sentiment. +The Government candidate of course supports the two measures +above referred to, while the opposition candidate is adverse to +both, the latter being the largest brewer in the Colony, (which +of course accounts for his opposing the excise duty on beer) and, +what is not unusual in the case of brewers, he is a decided +Churchman, and supporter of what he calls ‘religious +education.’ The whole strength of the clergy, +publicans, bishops, loafers, avowed atheists, Roman Catholic +archbishop, priests, and Irish is most heartily with the +Church-loving, beer-brewing candidate, who is socially much +liked, and very strong. His opponent is supported by the +whole Liberal party, by large numbers of the Churchmen, and by a +few Catholics. The Amended Education Act simply provides +that whereas at present State aid is given to denominational +schools it shall now be withdrawn. The Bible is not read in +the schools, but the lesson books of the Irish National Schools +are used. Facilities are offered to the various +denominations to give religious instruction to the children in +the State schools. The bishop and clergy of the Church of +England and the Roman Catholic priests unite heartily with the +beer <a name="page93"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +93</span>interest (as usual), the proposal to tax the beer coming +in very opportunely to enlist the sympathies and votes of the +idle, drunken, venal, and dissolute portion of the +community. The bishop takes an opportunity of stating +publicly how much he is in favour of temperance, and his clergy +follow suit; the Catholic clergy do the same, and in the evenings +clergy of both religious denominations appear at public meetings +in support of the brewer! The publicans and their followers +are relieved from saying anything about the tax on beer by the +existence of the education question, which they heartily oppose, +thus avoiding the subject in which they have a selfish interest; +so it comes to this—Bible says to beer, ‘I’ll +support you, although it is rather inconvenient, for am I not +pledged to temperance?’ Beer says to Bible, +‘I’ll support you with all the strength of my lungs, +rendered all the noisier by copious draughts of untaxed beer; +beer and Bible, Bible and beer for ever!’</p> +<p>“The Roman Catholic clergy anathematise Protestants of +all kinds and classes, including the Church of England, but the +latter joins hands with the Roman Catholics and the beer party to +gain its ends, the said ends being the same with both +Churches—viz., the triumph of priestly rule and +domination.”</p> +<p>The answer of the constituency, applauded throughout the +length and breadth of the land, was to return the Liberal +candidate by a majority of two to one.</p> +<p>In reference to this election the <i>Sydney Morning Herald</i> +said—“Many of the advocates for the extension and +maintenance of the denominational schools lay great stress upon +the doctrine that it is not just to deny denominational schools +to those who <a name="page94"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +94</span>prefer them—that if any citizen pays the education +tax he ought to have the sort of education provided for his child +that he most desires, and that it is a wrong-doing to his +conscience if this claim is not regarded. It is certainly +somewhat singular that the few advocates of this line of argument +are to be found in the ranks of the two great churches, which, +having been national churches, have, to say the least, not +distinguished themselves by defending the rights of +conscience. In England the march of religious liberty has +done much to undo Church-inspired legislation against those +outside the pale of the Church; and that being achieved it sounds +strangely to hear the ‘conscience’ argument against a +uniform treatment of all citizens proceed from a quarter which +has not been the home of the rights of conscience.”</p> +<p style="text-align: center"> +<a href="images/p94.jpg"> +<img alt= +"A Bullock Team on the Blue Mountains" +title= +"A Bullock Team on the Blue Mountains" +src="images/p94.jpg" /> +</a></p> +<p>Before leaving Sydney it may be well to describe an overland +ride I made from Sydney to Melbourne <i>viâ</i> Wagga Wagga +and Albury, at a time previous to the completion of the through +railway.</p> +<p><a name="page95"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 95</span>Leaving +Sydney by the Pullman train at six in the evening, Wagga Wagga is +reached about ten next morning: During the night we ascended +2,200ft. A large extent of the country is cleared, and, +being New Year’s Day, it was rather strange to our English +eyes to see the wheat cut and stacked, and harvesting operations +going on.</p> +<p style="text-align: center"> +<a href="images/p95.jpg"> +<img alt= +"Bush Hut" +title= +"Bush Hut" +src="images/p95.jpg" /> +</a></p> +<p>The country through which our track passes is famous for its +sheep runs and for the high quality of the wool produced in +it. Here and there in the bush are occasional +labourers’ cottages, wretched, uncomfortable looking +buildings, constructed of rough planks covered with bark. +The children we saw had a very uncared-for look.</p> +<p><a name="page96"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 96</span>Wagga +Wagga (pronounced Wogga Wogga) covers a large extent of ground, +but at present the number of houses is few, most of them, +however, being well built. From this place we hired a buggy +and pair of horses to take us to Albury, a distance of some +seventy to eighty miles, the charge for which, including the +services of a smart, bright boy as driver, was £7. +Immediately on leaving Wagga we got into the “bush” +country, and during the afternoon passed some large stock +“stations.” The land appears to be much more +fertile than in the neighbourhood of Sydney, with greater depth +of soil. We put up for the night at Jerra Jerra, a place +consisting of two or three wood shanties, one of them being the +hotel, and left at 6.30 next morning, taking breakfast at a +somewhat larger group of wood huts called Germanton. Every +driver through the “bush” makes his own track among +the trees, and ours was no exception to the rule; he made long +detours at intervals, only coming out into the regular road when +a creek had to be crossed. We saw many pairs of large +magpies, and some other birds which the driver informed us build +large mud nests. Then the Great Ants, too, are very +numerous, so that one dare not sit down anywhere to rest. +The flies are also a great pest, and as my companion said, +“won’t take a hint,” requiring to be toppled +over before they will move. At about seven a.m. we passed +the Royal Mail bowling along amongst the trees, our driver +quickly making a fresh track to avoid the fearful dust which it +raised. The coach is a big lumbering machine, painted +flaring red, and drawn by six horses. It is licensed to +carry sixty-five passengers, who can <a name="page97"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 97</span>only be got on to it by being packed +like herrings in a barrel. The weather being so hot and the +dust so great, it must be terrible to be cooped up in it with fat +people and thin smokers and others. The coaches are hung +upon enormous leather “springs,” and they need them, +for the road is so rough, and the coachmen are so daring, that +the bumping and thumping are terrific. Each coach is fitted +with four large reflector lamps, three in front and one +behind.</p> +<p>While baiting the horses I had a chat with a farm labourer, +who, like a great many of the immigrants with whom I have spoken, +was sighing for old England again. He told me the ordinary +farm labourer’s wages here are 12s. to 15s. a week with +board, and that 20s. a week is considered exceptionally good, +while the great heat, dust, and reptiles are so troublesome that +most of the labourers wish they were well out of it. This +man told me his little terrier was killed by a snake a day or two +before; the poor creature swelled up and died in great agony in +ten minutes after being bitten; its death, however, was speedily +avenged, his master killing the snake shortly afterwards. +The landlady said she was in great terror of the snakes, which +were very numerous. Near the run was a large log, and it +was well known that a big black snake had taken up his abode +there, for he was frequently seen to come out. In the +winter season the reptile would very soon have been despatched by +the same process adopted by the Chinaman when he wanted +“roast pig,” but this being summer, to fire the log +meant to cause a general conflagration in the bush.</p> +<p><a name="page98"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 98</span>The +power of endurance of Australian post-horses is something +wonderful; yesterday we travelled more than thirty-five miles +after one o’clock, over a rough bush road, or rather no +road at all, bumping up and down in a way that must be very +trying to the poor animals, as the “path” is never +certain; and to-day we had to go nearly fifty miles more, the +heat being intense, and the track covered with dust nearly a foot +thick.</p> +<p style="text-align: center"> +<a href="images/p98.jpg"> +<img alt= +"An Up-Country Town" +title= +"An Up-Country Town" +src="images/p98.jpg" /> +</a></p> +<p>Our driver, a mere lad of thirteen years, drove on with the +greatest confidence, never having missed the way once, though +there were no direction posts, and we did not come across a +person or house once in ten miles, and were amongst the trees all +the time. Towards evening the horses got rather tired, and +so did poor “Tommy,” the driver, who at times had a +quiet “weep” to himself, but at last we reached +Albury, and found our Melbourne friend awaiting us at the +hotel.</p> +<p><a name="page99"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 99</span>For +hours before, we had in view a fine range of hills, enclosing a +large extent of country, including the valley along which the +River Murray runs. Here we got the blue, purple, and +roseate tints on the mountains to perfection, and as the sun was +going down just as we entered the town I thought I had rarely +seen a more delightful picture.</p> +<p>There is a thriving, well-to-do look about the place which is +very enlivening, the houses being well built, with wide verandahs +projecting from two storeys, the streets straight and wide, and +planted on both sides with acacias, poplars, and several +varieties of pines, the whole forming a veritable little +paradise.</p> +<p>This being the great centre of the wine-growing industry we +were desirous of visiting the vineyards and seeing the capacious +cellars which are formed in the hills, and for which the district +is somewhat celebrated, but our friend, being very anxious to get +back to Melbourne, assured us there was “nothing to see +here,” and told us to wait till we got into Victoria, and +so hurried us off.</p> +<p>We left Albury at 5.30 on the following morning, driving +across the Murray to the railway station at Wodonga, the first +town on the Victorian side, as Albury is the last on the New +South Wales side, and the contrast between the two is great +indeed—just the difference between prosperity and +decay. New South Wales, with its Free Trade policy, is +fitly represented by bright and shining Albury, while Victoria +may well read a lesson from the decay and ruin into which Wodonga +has fallen. I could not help thinking that a dozen such +contrasts along the frontiers of the two States would do <a +name="page100"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 100</span>more than +anything to settle the fate of Protection. Even the omnibus +driver was full of the subject, pointing out to us as we rode +along the difference between the two places.</p> +<p>The railway ride to Melbourne occupies eight hours, although +the distance is only about 180 miles. On the way we passed +through Euroa, the town which was “stuck up,” +<i>i.e.</i>, plundered, by the notorious Kelly and his +gang. There were only four of these fellows in the gang, +but such was the terror they inspired that they were able to rob +a whole town in broad daylight, while a train was passing through +the station close by the bank from which they took a considerable +amount of cash. Having done this, they next ordered all the +people into carts, and drove them some miles out of the town, +ordering them not to stir for four hours under pain of +death. Having secured their booty the scoundrels rode off, +and for two years succeeded in eluding the vigilance of the +police, although the Government offered a reward of £8,000 +for their capture, alive or dead.</p> +<h2><a name="page101"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +101</span>CHAPTER VI.</h2> +<p>Before leaving the subject of the Australian Colonies a few +observations on the state of the labour market, and upon the +social condition of the people, may be interesting.</p> +<p>In most of the Australian colonies Free Trade practically +prevails, the exception being Victoria. In this colony the +system of Protection is to be found in its most pronounced form, +almost every imported article of manufacture being the subject of +a heavy duty.</p> +<p>The avowed object of this system is to encourage immigration +by offering a premium upon the manufacture of every article in +considerable demand in the Colony. I do not know how far +this object has been attained as concerns immigration, but it is +an admitted fact, and one which is causing Victorian politicians +much anxiety, that the colony fails to retain its +population. One result about which there can be no question +is that this fiscal policy is concentrating the population about +the large towns, the city of Melbourne presenting the appearance +of the chief town of an old and populous State. A ride in +any direction into the country, however, soon discloses the real +nakedness of the land as regards inhabitants, the fact being that +a <a name="page102"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 102</span>very +small proportion of the immigrants ever get beyond the +towns. An obvious consequence is that the natural resources +of the country are greatly neglected, and the evil of this state +of things will be apprehended when it is seen that the +manufacturing population is increasing in a vastly greater ratio +than the constituency upon which its trade depends. Under +such conditions the dangers of the situation are seriously +augmented when depression of trade occurs. Such a state of +things arose before the building of the late Exhibition in +Melbourne. The building trade and the mechanical industries +in the city being in a stagnant state, large numbers of people +found themselves out of employment, their attitude causing the +Government some anxiety. The Exhibition was decided upon in +the hope that its erection would provide employment until trade +should revive. I asked one of the Commissioners of the +Exhibition what would happen if trade did not revive on the +completion of the building? He replied, “Oh, they +shall take it down again, for it will be useless after the +Exhibition is over.” Surely a notable instance of the +dog subsisting by eating its own tail.</p> +<p>A natural result of all this is to produce in the minds of the +working classes a feeling that the Legislature ought to secure to +them a constant supply of work at high rates of wages, altogether +leaving out of consideration the inevitable effect of such a +course in checking demand. Naturally, each class expects to +receive the benefit of this policy, and it is not surprising that +the example of the manufacturers in demanding Protection should +be followed, and even bettered, by the working men.</p> +<p><a name="page103"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 103</span>A +curious example of this occurred when I was in Australia. +The streets of Melbourne, being very wide and long, are +peculiarly well adapted for the introduction of tramways. A +Bill was introduced into the House authorising the construction +of an experimental line, but it had to be abandoned in +consequence of the determined opposition of the cab drivers, the +majority of whom own the vehicles which they drive. These +men argued, naturally enough, that as manufacturing trades were +protected against foreigners, their business also should be +protected against competition in the only form in which it could +arise. Doubtless this resistance will eventually be +overcome, but not without leaving a sense of injustice.</p> +<p>While each class seeks to have the benefit of Protection for +its own manufactures, it also seeks to obtain the benefits of +Free Trade for the raw material and smaller accessories used in +their production. At the time I am referring to, a Tariff +Revision Commission was in session, and representatives of the +various manufacturing trades were examined with the view of +ascertaining whether any changes were desirable. In almost +every case extensive additions to the duty were demanded, +eliciting from some of the members of the Commission a reminder +that on previous occasions the representatives of protected +industries declared they only required the tax to be levied for a +limited time in order to enable them to establish their +business.</p> +<p>The Protectionist newspapers used every means to stir up the +various trades to avail themselves of the opportunity the +Commission afforded of making fresh claims.</p> +<p><a name="page104"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 104</span>It so +happens that most of the materials used for newspaper printing +are admitted duty free. The <i>Argus</i>, the leading +journal in Victoria, and a consistent advocate of Free Trade, +took this opportunity of suggesting that the proprietors of the +Protectionist journals should prove the sincerity of their +expressed opinions by appearing before the Commission and +demanding the imposition of a tax upon newspaper materials in the +interests of “native industry.” Of course the +suggestion was not adopted, perhaps for this reason, also +suggested by the <i>Argus</i>, that the struggle for existence +was already sufficiently severe.</p> +<p>The operative printers also demanded of the Commission that +printed books should be more heavily taxed, one of their +delegates remarking that “there was sufficient talent in +Victoria to produce their own books,” while a manufacturer, +with great candour, asked for a little increase upon his special +productions on the plea that his profit was not “quite +enough!”</p> +<p>If profits are not enough prices are certainly sufficiently +high, as the following instance will abundantly show. At +the close of 1882 one hundred locomotives were required by the +Government of Victoria, and although the needs of the country +were most urgent—complaints of the inefficiency of the +service coming in from all sides—the Protectionist party in +the House demanded that the whole number should be made in the +Colony, although there was only one firm who could undertake +their manufacture, and that firm was unable to deliver the first +engine under a period of ten months, and in addition to this, the +total price demanded for the contract was £66,000 more than +the <a name="page105"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +105</span>engines could have been procured for without delay in +England. It is admitted that the locomotives made in the +Colony are much inferior to those imported, while in addition to +the excess in first cost, the expense of maintaining the colonial +engines is vastly greater. I was assured by competent +authorities on the railways that the colonial engines are +frequently under repair, and that their life is much shorter than +that of their English rivals. The same evil principle is +applied to the purchase of the miscellaneous stores supplied to +the railways, thereby greatly enhancing the cost of +working. Instances might be multiplied of the mischievous +effects of a vicious fiscal policy in a young and undeveloped +Colony. It is notorious that the great want of the Colonies +is a larger population, and the Government in various +ways—notably by making grants in aid of +immigration—offer inducements to bring this result +about. The manufacturers also require a larger field for +their productions; but the working-class element is jealous of +this very increase lest it should subject labour to competition, +unmindful of the fact that there is ample room for an infinitely +larger population.</p> +<p>Neither the agricultural nor the mining industries of the +Colony are protected. As regards the former, public opinion +would not permit the taxation of food; whilst, in the latter +case, the minerals raised are, for the most part, exported, there +being scarcely any demand for them in the Colony. But, +while these industries receive no benefit from the fiscal policy +of the Colony, they are heavily taxed in support of the revenue, +for not only are all the machinery and materials used in their +development subject to more than <a name="page106"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 106</span>25 per cent. import duty, but the +cost of labour is greatly enhanced by the high wages, which +become necessary when the purchasing power of money is diminished +by Protection. Every year witnesses a considerable +expansion of the industries in question; and every year the cry +becomes louder against the injustice and inequality of a system +which places the natural resources of the country under so great +a disadvantage. In consequence of the urgency of these +complaints there is now some prospect of a reduction of the duty +on agricultural and mining machinery.</p> +<p>I have met with men who were always ready to descant upon the +advantages of Protection, but who, almost in the same breath, +have told me they have never hesitated to evade the laws when +they could do so to advantage, or even to break them when it +suited their convenience and they could do so without much risk, +justifying their conduct by saying that it was “quite right +to cheat the Government when they could, because the Government +were always ready to cheat them.” In order to +circumvent the practices of such men as these, the Legislature +has been compelled to institute a complicated system of accounts +in connection with the importation of goods, harassing in the +last degree to those who have been accustomed to do business in a +country where trade is unshackled.</p> +<p>In spite of the boasted advantages of Protection, it is +evident that some manufacturers are not happy under it, as is +shown by the fact of my having some time ago received from an +important manufacturing firm in Victoria an application for my +business agency in the Colony. In their application, the +firm stated that the <a name="page107"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 107</span>workpeople in the Colony were so +very independent and so uncertain that they (the firm in +question) would rather at any time sell imported articles at a +smaller profit than manufacture them in their own works.</p> +<p>I have stated that the avowed objects of Protection were the +attraction of a larger population and the fostering of +“native industry.” Now, with these very objects +in view, the public men of New South Wales have from the first +adopted and persisted in a policy diametrically opposed to that +which has for years past been in force in the neighbouring Colony +of Victoria. If the principles of Protection be sound, we +should expect to find in the Free Trade Colony of New South Wales +a state of things even much worse than I have shown to exist in +Victoria. But what do we find? A constantly +increasing population; abundance of employment; a vast and +continually expanding railway system; shipping considerably +greater than that of the Port of London one hundred years ago; an +import and export trade greater than that of Great Britain at the +same period; in short, every evidence of great and enduring +prosperity.</p> +<p>As in America, “where acres are many and men are +few,” the manufacture of agricultural machinery has been +brought to greater perfection than in almost any other country, +so in Australia the same conditions have developed a flourishing +manufacture of special machinery used in mining—one of the +staple industries of the country. A demand for this +improved machinery has recently sprung up in other countries, a +considerable order having been received from India by an +Australian firm while I was there.</p> +<p><a name="page108"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 108</span>In +Sydney—not in spite of, but because of, Free +Trade—the largest manufacturing concern in the Australian +Colonies has grown up. The founders of this large business +had the sagacity at the outset to recognise that there were +certain articles which must of necessity be better and more +cheaply made in the Colony than they could be imported. +They put down steam saw-mills for supplying planking, which +before had been imported; they next proceeded to make such +articles as window-sashes, doors, frames, etc., for +house-building, choosing such as could be manufactured almost +entirely by machinery, which they obtained from England and +America. By such natural means, and altogether free from +legislative interference, they have built up the enormous +business known as Hudson Brothers, Limited, railway rolling-stock +manufacturers. It is clear that with the most improved +machinery, purchased in the cheapest markets and imported duty +free, and having inexhaustible supplies of native timber, not +only cheaper but much better adapted to the climate than that +hitherto imported, the opening for a perfectly legitimate +business presented itself; in fact, they created a genuine +“native industry.” But Messrs. Hudson, +recognising, as already pointed out, that other countries have +also special advantages for the production of certain articles, +wisely abstain from attempting a hopeless competition. For +this reason they import such portions of the rolling-stock as +wheels, axles, springs, carriage-furniture, etc.</p> +<p>The free importation of mining and agricultural machinery into +New South Wales has given these industries such a stimulus that +they have been more <a name="page109"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 109</span>generally developed throughout that +Colony than those of Victoria, causing a continuous and +increasing demand for labour. The immigration into New +South Wales is greatly in excess of that into Victoria; and, in +addition to this, large numbers of artisans and others are +continually crossing the border from the latter into the former +Colony. In 1880, forty-five thousand persons arrived in New +South Wales from other than Australian ports, and it is not too +much to say that there is ample room for four times their number +every year.</p> +<p>Until a few years since the great shipping companies had their +repairing yards and shops in Victoria, but the extremely high +cost of everything required by them compelled them at last to +remove their establishments to her Free Trade neighbour, thereby +effecting a very considerable saving. The same causes have +doubtless been influential in securing to New South Wales the +remarkable development of its shipping interests during the last +generation.</p> +<p>So little is known in England of what our friends in the +Colonies are doing, that probably many will be startled to learn +that whereas in 1782 the total imports and exports of Great +Britain amounted in value to about £23,850,000, in New +South Wales, in 1881, the value was £27,650,000.</p> +<p>During the last thirty years the shipping annually arriving in +Sydney has increased from 90 vessels, with a tonnage of 48,776, +to 1,389 vessels, with a tonnage of 973,425; and the clearances +in the same period increased from 47 vessels, with a tonnage of +24,081, to 1,322 vessels, with a tonnage of 941,895.</p> +<p><a name="page110"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +110</span>During the last ten years, too, the population of New +South Wales has increased 53 per cent., while that of Victoria +has only increased 18 per cent., and while the excess of +immigration over emigration in the former Colony has quadrupled, +it has been almost stationary in the latter.</p> +<p>During the same period the Customs revenue in Victoria, +notwithstanding the high tariff, has remained almost stationary; +while in New South Wales, with a low tariff and smaller +population, it has increased nearly one-half. The imports, +too, have increased 80 per cent., against 17 per cent. in +Victoria, and the exports 94 per cent. against 28 per cent.</p> +<p>These figures, taken from official papers in 1882, have never +been dealt with by Victorian Protectionists, but are full of +meaning to all those whom vested interests have not made +blind. While it is true that Australia presents, and will +continue to present, a great field for the surplus population of +older countries, it is, in my opinion, a mistake to suppose that +the upper grades of English artisans improve their position much +by going there. Wages are higher it is true, and eight +hours make up a day’s work; animal food also is cheaper, +but almost everything else is dearer than in +England—house-rents, indeed, enormously so. An +artisan who in Birmingham would be well housed for 5s. to 6s. a +week would have to pay £1 for much inferior accommodation; +this remark applies generally in Australia, the principal cause +being the great lack of artisans in the building trade. +Many too, may consider the higher wages and shorter hours of +labour as not too great a compensation for the exhaustion induced +<a name="page111"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 111</span>by the +heat and dust of the climate and the annoyance from insect +life. But for unskilled labour and for skilled agricultural +labour there can be only one opinion,—viz., that the +Colonies present a field where sobriety and industry are certain +to bring a reward such as is altogether unattainable at home.</p> +<p>The education of the people is admirably provided for by the +Legislature, every district being well supplied with first-rate +schools, while the means of intercommunication by rail, post, and +telegraph are superior to those of any country in the world, when +the smallness of the population and the immense distances to be +covered are taken into consideration.</p> +<p>In Australia, especially in the southern Colonies, there is +happily no native question to absorb the attention of the people +and to upset the calculations of financiers, consequently the +colonists are able to devote all their energy to opening up the +natural resources of the country. At the present time many +millions of money are set aside for the construction of new +railways and for the supply and storage of water, and when these +are completed vast areas of agricultural land will be opened +sufficient to accommodate all the spare population of England for +many years to come.</p> +<p>If “Young Australia,” like his cousin in America, +has an unbounded confidence in the future of his country, he has +even more in himself, as is well illustrated by the following +story told me by an old resident. In one of the cities a +number of young men had established a Debating Society, which met +every Wednesday evening in a room in a narrow street. On +the other side of the street was a church where service was held +<a name="page112"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 112</span>at the +same time. The weather being hot the windows of both +buildings were usually open, and the important deliberations of +the young men were much interrupted by the preaching and singing +in the church. With a delightful unconsciousness of what in +slang phrase is called “cheek,” they instructed their +secretary to write to the minister of the church, requesting him +to hold his service upon some other evening of the week!</p> +<p>The people of Australia are possessed of vast energy and great +intelligence: and, having unlimited and well-grounded faith in +their capacity to conquer the many difficulties which lie before +them, they determined that their future career shall do no +discredit to the great country from which they have sprung, and +of whose history they are so proud.</p> +<p style="text-align: center"> +<a href="images/p112.jpg"> +<img alt= +"The Duck-Billed Platypus (Ornithorhyncus paradoxus)" +title= +"The Duck-Billed Platypus (Ornithorhyncus paradoxus)" +src="images/p112.jpg" /> +</a></p> +<h2><a name="page113"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +113</span>CHAPTER VII.</h2> +<p>We left Sydney in the first week in April, and although we had +greatly enjoyed the beautiful scenery of its fine harbour and the +neighbouring Blue Mountains, and had experienced the greatest +kindness and hospitality on every side, we were not sorry to +depart.</p> +<p>In the first place, we were homeward-bound, and I had +recovered the health, in search of which I had left home and +friends, and the weather had been so oppressively hot and the +dust so troublesome, that we were glad of the prospect of the +abatement of the one and the total disappearance of the +other.</p> +<p>For ten months the Colony had had no rain, and in the +neighbourhood of Sydney trees were dying by hundreds, and gardens +which had been carefully tended for fifteen or twenty years were +nearly spoiled. The outlook for agriculturists was dark +indeed, very indifferent hay was selling for £10 a ton, and +the cattle were perishing for want of water. I saw a +statement <a name="page114"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +114</span>in the paper that one farmer had already lost 45,000 +sheep, and if the drought lasted a few weeks longer he would lose +50,000 more. The most inveterate grumbler at the moisture +of the English climate would, if here in Sydney, soon arrive at +the conclusion that six months’ rain is to be preferred to +ten months’ drought and dust under a scorching sun.</p> +<p>Some friends accompanied us on board our steamer, and +observing that the sky had become overcast with every prospect of +a heavy downpour, I endeavoured to persuade them to return to +shore, but they said the sky often looked overcast but soon +became clear again, and that there would be no rain; still I was +not comfortable, and presently induced them to go. +Half-an-hour afterwards our time was up, the ship’s gun was +fired, and down came the rain in such torrents as made me very +apprehensive for the safety of my friends, lest their boat should +be swamped. On arriving at New York I found a letter from +them informing me that the rain filled the boat so fast that it +was with some difficulty they could keep it afloat.</p> +<p>Our vessel was an exceedingly fine one, and was on her first +voyage. Her length was 400ft. and she was 40ft. wide across +the saloon. The appointments seemed to be all very good, +although it soon appeared that she was insufficiently supplied +with stewards, the consequence being that the meals were badly +served. Everything, however, was done according to rule, +and it was curious to see the order in which the various dishes +were brought in. The chief steward rang a bell once, and +the stewards marched into the saloon in single file, dishes in +hand; two rings, right wheel; <a name="page115"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 115</span>three times, place dishes on the +table; and at the fourth ringing of the bell, remove covers and +march out with them. It looked like a pantomime, and caused +us considerable merriment. The head steward was a negro, +and it was curious to note how he lorded it over the white +stewards.</p> +<p>A rough passage of four days brought us to the entrance of +Auckland harbour. The previous day it was very stormy, and +an albatross which had been following us for some time, +frequently flying across the ship between the masts, at length +either flew, or was blown, against one of the masts, and fell +dead upon the deck.</p> +<p>In approaching the town of Auckland a number of islands of +curious shape, surmounted with rocks bearing the appearance of +castles are passed. Auckland looks well from the harbour, +which is a very fine one; behind the town a mountain rises to a +considerable altitude, greatly adding to the picturesqueness of +the view.</p> +<p>Our ship was the largest that had ever been in the harbour, +and we expected soon to have a number of boats plying for hire, +but none appeared until half our limited time had expired, and +consequently very few passengers went ashore. We took a +quantity of coal on board, the quality of which was very bad, +giving off volumes of the densest smoke. It is much +inferior to the New South Wales coal, which in its turn is not +equal to English.</p> +<p>For the first ten days the Pacific greatly belied its name, +being in a state of great commotion the whole time; indeed, most +of the way to San Francisco the roll was very considerable. +As we neared Kandavu, <a name="page116"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 116</span>in the Fiji Islands, the dreaded +coral reefs began to come in sight. Some of them stretch +out for fifteen miles from the land, and are known to approaching +vessels by the white crests of the long lines of breakers. +Navigation is very dangerous, and the harbour of Kandavu is a +very difficult one to make. Just before entering we passed +within fifty feet of the masts of a sunken ship; but, having +brought a native pilot from Sydney, we got inside safely. +The harbour is exceedingly beautiful. For some distance +from the water on each side the ground is covered with cocoa-nut +and bread-fruit trees, large ferns, and a great variety of bright +green foliage, while beyond is a range of hills of beautiful +shapes and well wooded.</p> +<p>It being Sunday only two or three boats made their appearance, +the missionaries not permitting the natives to come out to trade +or to gratify their curiosity on that day. Knowing this we +were not a little amazed to receive a visit presently from the +missionaries themselves, who were rowed by eight very intelligent +natives, having no clothing worthy of mention. Some of our +party taxed the missionaries with their lack of consistency, and +were answered that they came “by invitation.” +The natives have fine open faces, with good foreheads, bright and +restless eyes. They are of a dark chocolate or liver +colour. Their hair is very abundant, but they spoil it by +putting quicklime upon it, turning it to a dirty reddish +brown. Their vivacity is astonishing. They laugh and +chatter in a ceaseless chorus, but their language is not +musical. One old fellow was particularly voluble; he was in +a boat, and was giving instructions <a name="page117"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 117</span>to his crew in a fearfully loud +voice, which sounded like the slipping of a ship’s cable +through the hawser-hole.</p> +<p style="text-align: center"> +<a href="images/p117.jpg"> +<img alt= +"A Native of Fiji" +title= +"A Native of Fiji" +src="images/p117.jpg" /> +</a></p> +<p>It was great fun to watch the children diving for money. +If you threw a sixpence into the water they would go after it and +catch it before it had gone down many feet, quickly reappearing +to ask—like Oliver Twist—for more, and with a grin, +disclosing teeth which made us envy them.</p> +<p><a name="page118"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 118</span>Some +of our fellow-passengers went ashore, and were much charmed with +all they saw. The little children very much delighted them +by coming up and putting their hands into those of their +visitors, leading them off to show them the bread-fruit and +banana trees.</p> +<p>Just as daylight was going our gun was fired, and with our +pilot on board we steamed out of the harbour, having the +pilot’s boat in tow, manned with as merry a crew as ever +rowed a boat. The captain was very anxious to get clear of +the reefs before dusk, and so went at a pretty good speed, and +although the pilot-boat was half out of the water, and was +constantly being swamped, the crew laughed and shrieked with +delight, shouting and making curious noises like Christy +Minstrels.</p> +<p>Presently they commenced a song, one old fellow beating time +with an oar—but we preferred the shrieking. Soon the +pilot clambered down the ship’s side, and after giving him +three cheers we set off at full speed.</p> +<p>There are many sharks in these waters, but it is said they are +not fond of the dark skins. Whether that is so or not I do +not know, but certainly both boys and men disregard the presence +of these monsters in diving for money.</p> +<p>The day after leaving Kandavu we passed through a beautiful +group of islands surrounded with coral reefs. We passed so +close to two of these islands that we were able to see the +cocoa-nut trees quite distinctly, the bright green vegetation +rising just above the pure white surf, and the whole surrounded +by the glorious purple and azure of the ocean. While +passing one of <a name="page119"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +119</span>the islands we saw a huge waterspout burst, and were +glad our ship was well out of it.</p> +<p>Soon after leaving the Fiji Islands the crew were put through +fire-brigade practice. The bell was rung continuously, the +whistles blown, and the crew and stewards rushed to the +fire-engines, and got out the buckets and hose, and soon began +playing over the ship, while the first officer superintended the +getting out and lowering of the boats. As very few persons +were warned of what was going to be done, there was naturally +great excitement amongst the passengers, one lady fainting in the +saloon, thinking the ship was really on fire. I was not +impressed with the smartness or efficiency of either officers or +crew, and was devoutly thankful that there was no need for their +services; and yet I often wondered there were no fires, there +being so many kerosene lamps all over the ship, to say nothing of +the immense kitchen fires, where twice in one morning I saw a +regular burst of flame through an unskilful cook overturning the +fat in the absence of his chief.</p> +<p>In going from England to Australia, and returning via the +Pacific, and across America, one day is gained, and in order to +keep our calendar right we had to “drop a day,” or +when we arrived at Liverpool we should be a day in advance of our +home friends. This is done by having two days of the same +name and date in one week. It appears rather curious but is +plain enough, for our general course since leaving home was +eastward, and continued so until we reached home. Now, as +in going east, four minutes to each degree are gained (the +reverse in going west), it <a name="page120"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 120</span>follows that in the 360 degrees into +which the earth’s circumference is divided, a total gain of +360 × 4 = 1,440 minutes, or 24 hours is made.</p> +<p>Our doctor was somewhat of a curiosity. One evening he +told me that one of the passengers, who was suffering from an +ailment of the eyes, had declined his further services, +preferring to pay one of the passengers who was a medical +man. He assured me he had no feeling about it, he was quite +above that sort of thing. “Our profession,” he +said, “is one in which we should always practice the virtue +of charity in accordance with the teaching of Christ, whose +follower I trust I am.” But observing that during the +conversation he frequently swore, I gave him a hint about +it. “Ah,” said he, “you remind me of my +little wife at home; whenever I swear or consign any one to a +warm place, she puts her finger up and says, ‘Ah, +don’t do that, you know you don’t mean it,’ +which of course is perfectly true, so there is no harm in +it.” One of our doctors was re-named a +“compound-conceited-cuss-of-a-colonial-cockatoo-quack-of-a-doctor.” +He believed in the Australian “spread eagle”—in +the cockatoo, that is—and had visions of a time when +England would be a “foreign” country. But he +was labouring under the impression that there were eight millions +of people in the Australian colonies, whereas there were not more +than 2½ millions of white, black, yellow, and brown.</p> +<p>Life on shipboard is not more free from little personal +difficulties than on land: one of our colonial friends daily +raised the susceptibilities of his neighbours at the dinner table +by emptying a favourite dish of fruit into his pocket for home +consumption; while just <a name="page121"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 121</span>before reaching Honolulu it was +rumoured there was to be a duel as soon as we arrived at the +island. One of the English travellers had an objectionable +habit of turning the fruit over with his fingers at dessert, and +picking out the best. A colonial gentleman frequently +rebuked him mildly for his breach of good manners, telling him he +should “touch and take”; and so it resulted in a +quarrel which it was said “blood alone can +quell.” It is satisfactory, however, to know that the +deadly encounter did not come off.</p> +<p>Being told by the Captain that we might expect to land at +Honolulu at 6 p.m., the four o’clock dinner table was +comparatively deserted, most of the passengers preferring to +reserve themselves for what the Yankees call a “good square +meal” on shore. We arrived off the entrance to the +harbour in good time, and made the usual signals for a pilot, but +with no result. After sunset, guns and rockets were fired, +but no pilot appearing, the Captain decided to run in without +one. In consequence of the delay it was ten o’clock +before we landed, when we found the islanders were <i>en +fête</i>, and were informed that on such occasions the +pilots decline to go out for vessels. Just as we were about +to land, one of our passengers, in the darkness, fell overboard, +but being a good swimmer and a strong, fearless man, he managed +to get aboard again, with no worse result than a wetting. +This gentleman had the reputation of being somewhat of a sceptic, +and that afternoon I had been discussing with him the subject of +a future state. When he was safe on deck again I reminded +him of our conversation, and asked what his thoughts were when +under the water in such a perilous situation. He replied, +“I will tell you <a name="page122"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 122</span>exactly what I did think. When +I fell overboard I had three shillings in my hand, and my first +thought when under water was as to their safety; so, before doing +anything else, I safely deposited them in my pocket, and then +proceeded to ‘go aloft.’” On landing we +found ourselves amongst a motley throng, whose faces, however, +were too dark to be seen, the majority dressed in light coloured +raiment, and all laughing, shouting, jabbering and shrieking in a +ten times more lively manner than a mob of gay Neapolitans on the +arrival of a train at Naples. We found the hotel about a +mile from the landing place, and very much enjoyed the walk along +the wide unpaved streets, lined with houses of various shapes and +sizes, many with gardens around them. Myriads of fire-flies +lit up the darkness, and the air was laden with the perfume of +tropical flowers. On arriving at the hotel, we found it to +be a spacious, well-lighted building, with lofty reception rooms, +through which we wandered in quest of waiters to whom to give our +orders for supper, but no servant could we find, neither could we +get any response to the bells, which were vigorously rung by a +hungry crowd. We made our way to the office, and were there +informed that we could get nothing to eat till next morning, as +the servants had “gone home,” and nothing was served +after nine o’clock. It was in vain we declared we +were starving; the only reply was that we could get what we liked +to <i>drink</i> at the bar. A Yankee standing by, pitying +our plight, said it was quite true we could get nothing that +night, but told us how we could be the first to be served in the +morning. He recommended us to order our breakfast at the +office <a name="page123"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +123</span>before leaving, and to pay for it there and then, and +to be at the hotel again before seven o’clock next +morning. This we did, and then returned to the vessel, +where we also were too late to obtain anything to eat. In +the morning we were early at the hotel (buying some delicious +strawberries on the way), and proceeding to the breakfast room, +were informed we could not obtain admission until seven +o’clock. At the appointed hour the folding doors were +opened by two natives of the “Flowery Land,” and we +were soon seated at the tables, which were crowded with a +bountiful supply of most tempting viands, and quantities of +luscious fruit.</p> +<p>As soon as all the seats were occupied the Celestial waiter +closed the door, and was most assiduous in seeing that his staff +attended carefully to the wants of his guests. Presently +there were loud knockings at the door, to which no attention +whatever was vouchsafed by the smiling Chinee; and when the +knockings were varied by angry exclamations from our friends +outside, his face became blander still. It could not be +said of this “Heathen Chinee” that his “tricks +they were vain,” for they were only too effectual in +keeping the hungry crowd at bay. When we had quite finished +(and I fear we were in no haste to depart), the doors were opened +to admit a further batch of impatient voyagers, and even then +only one half of the expectant throng could be admitted, the +remainder being advised to betake themselves to the restaurants +in the town. We shall not soon forget our experiences at +the Honolulu Hotel, the landlord of which is no less a personage +than His Most Gracious Majesty the King of the Hawaiian +Islands.</p> +<p><a name="page124"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 124</span>We +occupied the remainder of the limited time at our disposal in +walking and driving around the town and neighbourhood.</p> +<p>The date and other palms, india-rubber and cocoanut trees, +tree ferns, guavas, and other kinds of tropical vegetation +flourish here in great abundance. Flowers of the most +brilliant colours grow everywhere, and the houses of the better +classes seem perfect little paradises, with numerous jets of +water flying. The grass is delightfully green and +beautiful, and great dragon-flies flit about in all +directions. Here and there we came across a group of little +black-eyed, brown-faced, merry children, looking shyly at the +white strangers, and rushing wildly along the streets. We +also met numbers of natives on horseback, dressed in splendid +colours—red, blue, yellow, and green—all mixed, or in +masses of one or more of these delicate hues. “Will +you ride,” said one. “Not to-day,” I +said, “perhaps to-morrow.” “That no +good,” replied he, “for steamer sails +tomorrow!” and off he went at a gallop. They are +sharp, sprightly fellows, very handsome, wonderfully lithe and +active, and have dark, flashing eyes.</p> +<p>The women of the labouring class are very stately looking, and +walk with a dignity and grace a duchess might envy. Their +clothing is not of a very extensive character, consisting +apparently of one long loose robe, gathered neatly around the +neck and wrists, with gay-coloured ribbons, and suggesting the +idea that seven years would be an unnecessary time for a Honolulu +girl to be bound to learn dressmaking.</p> +<p>Meeting a number of little girls returning from school, I +tried to get them to come and read to us <a +name="page125"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 125</span>out of +their books. They were very shy, and it was some time +before they would venture near us. At last one of them let +me have her book, and I saw that her name was Emma—after +the good queen of that name, who visited England a few years +since—so I said, “Now, Emma, read us something, and I +will give you this,” holding a new threepenny piece before +her. At once she came and read a page in the true +conventional schoolgirl monotone. The book was printed in +Honolulu, and was in the native language, which sounded sweet, +and free from harshness. She was a nice-looking little +girl, quite a “brownie,” and was much pleased with +her threepenny-piece. The children were delighted at seeing +Queen Victoria’s face on the coin, and frequently repeated +her name. The race is fast dying out, and in a few +generations will become extinct.</p> +<p>During the day we visited a school, and looked over the +Parliament House, which is a handsome building. The hall is +very large and lofty, and so also are the rooms, the walls and +ceilings being lined with a smooth white enamel. In +connection with the House of Parliament there is a tolerably good +library, and the nucleus of a good museum, but the country is +very poor; indeed I am told it is almost bankrupt. On +passing the post-office it occurred to us to ask if there were +any letters for us, although we did not expect any, and putting +our cards on the table we said we supposed there were no letters +for us. “Oh, but there are though,” the clerk +said, “and I am very glad to get rid of them,” +whereupon, to our intense delight, he produced a huge packet of +letters and papers.</p> +<p><a name="page126"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 126</span>While +driving into the country we passed many pretty villas, with +gardens full of splendid shrubs and flowers, and on to a native +village. The houses are made chiefly of large rushes, which +grow here in great abundance. There seem to be no chairs or +seats in the houses, every one squatting on the ground. We +passed some native women carrying their babies, and I asked if +they would sell me one. “Yes, for a dollar,” <a +name="page127"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 127</span>one +replied; but when I said “Very well, then, bring it +here,” she altered her mind, which was a good thing for me, +for I should not have known what to do with a black baby.</p> +<p style="text-align: center"> +<a href="images/p126.jpg"> +<img alt= +"Ruth, The King’s Sister (Died 1883)" +title= +"Ruth, The King’s Sister (Died 1883)" +src="images/p126.jpg" /> +</a></p> +<p>The temperature of Honolulu ranges between 60° and +88°, and the islands are always fanned by the N.E. trade +winds, rendering them exceedingly healthy.</p> +<p>Our visit conveyed the impression to our minds that it would +be impossible to spend a month more delightfully than among the +Hawaiian group, and we bade adieu to Honolulu with the greatest +regret.</p> +<p>It was a beautiful moonlight evening when we left Honolulu for +San Francisco, and after many months’ travelling by land +and sea, we began to feel that we were at last really homeward +bound, for would not our <i>next</i> voyage land us at +Liverpool? While at Honolulu we received a very +considerable addition to our passenger list in the persons of a +number of Americans, of both sexes, some of them being +gentlefolks and some of them not. We also took on board +three thousand bundles of bananas, which were hung up in the +netting all round the promenade deck. This was a most +unfair arrangement on the part of the captain, as not only were +the seats on this deck rendered unavailable, and a large portion +of the space occupied, but the ship became overrun with +centipedes, some of them five inches long, making it like Egypt +during one of the plagues, “for they were in all our +quarters,” in our beds and in our clothes. Americans, +as a rule, are not good sailors. Hence it is that when +commencing a voyage they take it for granted that they are going +to be ill, and make their arrangements accordingly. My +companions had <a name="page128"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +128</span>been flattering themselves that the spare berth in +their cabin would remain empty to the end of the voyage, but they +were doomed to disappointment, for it was their bad fortune to +receive one of the most bilious-looking of the new +arrivals. On entering the cabin the first observation the +Yankee made was, “Where d’ye throw up?” +The answer to which was, “We don’t ‘throw +up’ at all. We <i>go</i> up and lean over the lee +side.” The event proved the Yankee’s +apprehensions to be well founded. One party of Americans +were returning from a prolonged residence on one of the islands +of the Pacific, where they appeared to have acquired some of the +native habits. One day these people were taking their lunch +on deck; it consisted of chicken and a native dish called +“POI.” The latter was a substance like +bill-stickers’ paste, and was contained in a large +bowl. The company, which numbered some five or six persons, +men and women, sat upon the deck around the bowl, and, having +learned from their new acquaintances, the savages, to do without +spoons and separate dishes, helped themselves to the delicious +mixture by each dipping two fingers into the common bowl until it +was empty. They then attacked the chicken, and had +evidently taken lessons in carving from the same authorities, for +they adopted the primitive plan of pulling it to pieces. Of +course these proceedings excited considerable remark among the +passengers, but the party seemed quite insensible to +observation.</p> +<p>Another of our passengers was an American, named Steinberg, +who had a grievance against the British Government on account of +an alleged outrage on the part of an English man-of-war’s +crew, in some dispute <a name="page129"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 129</span>in the Samoan Islands. He was +nursing his wrath until he arrived at Washington, when he +certainly thought England’s fate would be settled, and that +she would be “chawed up catawampously.” This +man was accompanied by a Yankee journalist of a most anti-British +type. He was a sallow-faced man with a large square lower +jaw, without any hair on his face, and with straight lanky locks, +and, moreover, was something under five feet high. He was +so thorough-going in his hatred of everything British that when +“God save the Queen” was sung at the close of a +concert in the saloon, he got up with much fuss and stalked out, +followed by some half-dozen of his countrymen. We called +the fiery editor “Jefferson Brick,” after Martin +Chuzzlewit’s acquaintance. On one occasion I heard a +friend of this gentleman ask him if he had a chair on deck. +He said he had not, as the Britishers always brought a good +supply. I took the hint, and determined that, at any rate, +he should not use mine. Soon afterwards it happened that a +sea, breaking over the deck, soaked the carpet seat of my chair, +which obliged me to place it in a sunny position that it might +dry. Presently I saw “Mr. Brick” deliberately +fetch the chair, which was a very comfortable one, and, taking it +into the shade, settle down on it. I went to him and +remarked that the chair was quite wet. “I guess +it’s dry now,” said he, with the peculiar twang of a +down-east Yankee. Seeing that he failed to take the hint, I +told him that the chair was mine and that I would thank him to +give it up. This he did, with a remark that he “did +not see what people who were always walking about wanted with +chairs at all.”</p> +<p><a name="page130"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 130</span>We +were not altogether without curious examples of our own +countrymen as fellow-passengers. One in particular, an +Irish tradesman, from one of the New Zealand ports, seemed +determined to amuse and be amused. We called our friend +“Mister,” because he addressed everybody by that +name. It appears that “Mister” was too fond of +liquor, and that he had to take an occasional holiday, in order +to give his friends an opportunity of putting his affairs +straight at home. I was told that he had a flourishing +business, which was managed by two able assistants, who insisted +upon his leaving them for twelve months in the interest of the +concern, under the penalty, if he returned, of their opening an +opposition shop. “Mister” told me he had been +educated in four Colleges in Ireland, which, doubtless, accounted +for the remarkable absence of knowledge he displayed. He +frequently alarmed us by the disappearance of the knife down his +throat at the dinner table. One evening he volunteered to +read at one of the entertainments in the saloon, and caused great +amusement by the richness of his humour and of his +brogue—winding up his reading by the impromptu observation, +“and shure it is oi that am moighty dray.” We +shall hear of “Mister” again when we get to San +Francisco.</p> +<p>One of our passengers, who died during the voyage, had been +suffering greatly from severe pains in the head. He had +been told by a lady that sometimes great relief was obtained in +such cases by rubbing brandy upon the head. Soon after +giving this advice the lady was walking down the saloon where +there were a number of passengers and stewards, when she was +astonished by <a name="page131"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +131</span>hearing the poor invalid calling after her in the most +excited manner, and to the no small wonderment of the passengers, +“Miss, Miss, did you say brandy or whiskey?” On +one occasion the doctor was examining this patient, when the poor +fellow appealed to him to do what he could for him, saying, +“Doctor, I should like to have one more chance, do you see, +and if you can put this old crazy machine together again and make +it run once more I shall take it—<i>as a personal +favour</i>!” Before he became dangerously ill the +invalid was in the same cabin with one of my friends, who one +night was considerably disturbed by his dreadful coughing, varied +at intervals by strong language respecting the cough, which, he +declared, did not belong to him. “It’s not +mine, I never had a cough, it’s my head that’s +wrong—this cough belongs to some other fellow; what’s +it bothering me for?” and when some ladies gently +remonstrated with him he said, “Look here, now, I guess +it’s just as natural for me to swear as it is for you to +pray!” His end came suddenly at last, and in a few +hours after, in the early morning, his remains were</p> +<blockquote><p>“In the deep bosom of the ocean +buried.”</p> +</blockquote> +<p>We sighted the entrance to the magnificent harbour of San +Francisco at daybreak on a beautiful morning at the end of April, +and when we approached it the sun had just risen, bathing the +whole scene in a flood of golden light, fully justifying its +name, “The Golden Gate.” In a short time the +city came in view, reminding me very forcibly of Sheffield, from +the dense masses of smoke which hung over a large portion of it, +for San Francisco is an important manufacturing place. Soon +we were boarded by a motley crew, composed of <a +name="page132"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 132</span>Custom +House officers, hotel-touts, porters, agents for the railway, and +a number of keen-eyed gentry, desirous of earning a cent anyway, +honest or otherwise. We had decided upon going to the +famous Palace Hotel, and having found the agent, placed our +luggage under his care, receiving checks for it, and, locking our +cabin, proceeded on shore, where we found the most sumptuous +omnibus we had ever seen waiting to convey passengers to the +hotel.</p> +<h2><a name="page135"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +135</span>CHAPTER VIII.</h2> +<p>The Palace Hotel in San Francisco is quite a town in itself, +containing as it does over a thousand rooms, and with rarely less +than a thousand inhabitants, including servants, only a limited +number of the latter, however, living in the house. The +establishment has its own gas-works, four artesian wells, +affording an abundant supply of the purest water; it also +possesses a thoroughly good fire-brigade, and an efficient system +of police. There are five hydraulic lifts for the +conveyance of guests and luggage to each floor of the +house. The rooms on the ground floor are 25ft. high, and of +corresponding size, the breakfast room being 110ft. by 53ft., the +dining room 150ft. by 55ft., the walls being hung with excellent +copies of the best works of the great masters. The +corridors are lined and paved with white marble, and the grand +staircase is of the same material.</p> +<p>The bedrooms are very large and airy, and they all have +comfortable dressing-rooms attached, with hot and <a +name="page136"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 136</span>cold water +supply, and with a dozen beautiful towels—a very refreshing +sight to the voyager who has been cooped up for the previous +month in the limited space allotted to passengers on an ocean +steamer. The bedrooms have baths adjoining them, each bath +being arranged for two rooms; there is also a service-room on +each landing, where a dusky negro is always in attendance. +Upon each landing there is a tube for the conveyance of letters +for the post direct into the letter-box at the general +office. There is also a pneumatic despatch-tube for the +conveyance of messages and parcels to and from any point on the +different floors. Upon the garden floor of the hotel there +is an arcade promenade 12ft. wide, with entrances to all the +shops under the hotel, upon the street level, each shop having a +show window upon this promenade. There are three inner +courts, the centre one being 140ft. by 84ft., covered with glass +of the same height as the roof of the hotel. It has a +carriage and promenade entrance from the street of 44ft. in +width, and a circular carriage way of 54ft. in diameter, which is +surrounded by a marble-tiled promenade and a tropical +garden. The garden is well supplied with exotic plants, +statuary, and fountains. Around this centre court and upon +every storey there is an open gallery from which all the bedrooms +are entered, and from which they receive light and fresh +air. The dining rooms are fitted with a large number of +small tables for parties of from four to eight persons, an +arrangement very much superior to the long tables in most +<i>salles à manger</i>.</p> +<p>There are about four hundred waiters, one-fourth only being +white men, the rest negroes. The latter <a +name="page137"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 137</span>seem +specially adapted for waiting, being active and nimble, and +seeming to anticipate every wish. They receive £1 per +week wages and their board, but lodge away from the house. +A fresh bill of fare is printed daily for each meal, and the +variety of food is very great, there being a choice of about +seventy dishes at dinner. In the kitchen are twenty-seven +French cooks, besides assistants—a sufficient guarantee for +the excellent manner in which the food is prepared.</p> +<p>There is a splendid laundry in the house, where the washing is +done by fifty Chinese washer<i>men</i>, and certainly never was +linen more exquisitely got up than here. These Celestials +are specially successful in all kinds of starching requiring a +smooth polished surface, such as shirt fronts. The mode in +which they apply the starch is quite novel, for having taken a +mouthful they blow it out on to the article in a continuous fine +spray, while their hands are occupied in ironing.</p> +<p>The servants take their meals in <i>table d’hote</i> +fashion, being waited on by a batch of their fellow servants, and +everything is conducted with the greatest possible regularity and +order. I was much pleased to find that all the gas and +water fittings, also the hydraulic lifts and pumps, were supplied +by English makers, and were such as to command the admiration of +everybody.</p> +<p>An American gentleman, hearing me speak of the hotel, asked me +how I liked it? I told him I was greatly delighted with it; +that it was a palace, indeed, in all its arrangements, but that +in one respect I had been not a little astonished at what I had +seen there—the presence of the extreme of civilisation face +to face with a very close approach to barbarism. “How +is <a name="page138"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +138</span>that,” said he. “Why,” I +replied, “you are only supplied with one knife and fork at +meals; each guest has to dip his fishy knife into the butter, and +the same process has to be gone through in taking salt and +mustard; and seeing it is the fashion amongst the American guests +to put the knife into their mouths, the idea is not +pleasant.”</p> +<p>I referred, too, to another peculiarity of the Americans +arising, I believe, from their extensive use of the Virginian +weed in chewing, and I said that the guests at the Palace Hotel, +in passing through its marble halls, had not the same excuse for +their conduct that the old Greek philosopher had when he was +being shown over the palace by Crœsus, and when he excused +himself for an unparalleled act of rudeness by saying “that +such was the magnificence on every hand that the face of the king +was the meanest thing that presented itself,” for the +proprietor of the hotel had made the most ample provision for the +national habit—a provision which was, however, very +generally disregarded.</p> +<p>The city of San Francisco is exceedingly well situated, and +possesses many handsome streets, extensive hotels, and public +buildings, but in none of these respects, save only in hotels, is +it equal to Melbourne, though the evidences of great business +activity and prosperity are much greater in the former city.</p> +<p>The day after I arrived at the hotel I was surprised at +receiving the following letter:—“Dear +Tangye,—Should you wish to see me I am to be found at the +above address, or a letter addressed to me, Box 339, Post Office, +will reach me promptly. My wife is dead. A. J. C. +Jarratt.” The name was quite <a +name="page139"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 139</span>strange to +me, so I decided <i>not</i> to go, but to send a friend. My +friend found the address, which was a wretched room at the top of +a lofty pile of buildings, and after a few minutes’ +conversation with the man he saw there, was very glad to get into +the street again, not liking the aspect of things. The +following day, whilst seated at dinner with my friends, a waiter +came to us and asked which was Dr. L—. On being told, +he said a messenger from the chief of police was in waiting, +wishing to see him. I looked at the doctor and asked him +what he had been doing. Having finished our dinner we +adjourned to the office and found the officer, who said his chief +had received a telegram from a man in some town a hundred miles +inland requesting him to send “his friend the Doctor” +up to him as soon as possible. Of course my friend, knowing +nothing whatever of the man, declined to go up country. I +mentioned these polite attentions to a gentleman who was dining +at the same table, and who I found was the leading lawyer in the +city. He told me it was a favourite dodge with the +sharpers, and that they sometimes caught a “flat” in +this way. On the arrival of ocean steamers it is the custom +to publish the names of the passengers in the evening papers, +which accounts for the familiarity of these fellows with the +names of strangers. We had many amusing chats with this +lawyer. He remarked one day that I must have met with a +deal of “character” in travelling. +“Yes,” I said, “I had, both good and +bad.” “Wa-a-l, I guess its better to meet with +a <i>bad</i> character than none at all.” Speaking of +the neighbouring State of Nevada, which was still in a very +unsettled condition, <a name="page140"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 140</span>he said a friend of his was Governor +there, and that he “was 6ft. 6in. in height, and had a +number three head and a number fifteen foot, for,” said he, +“I guess weight of foot is more important there than weight +of brain.”</p> +<p>There are sharp men of business in the city who do not require +offices in which to carry on their business. If you are +walking in the streets with a friend, and, meeting someone else, +stop for a chat, you will see a ’cute-looking fellow stop, +and though he appears to be intent on something on the opposite +side of the street, you will note that he is leaning his ear +towards you, doubtless with the laudable intention of gaining a +little information. On one occasion we met one of these +individuals. He kept his ear open, and then struck in with +“I guess you are going through to England. I can put +you up to the best way of doing it and calculate I can save you +from forty to fifty dollars on the job.” We say we +are much obliged, and will perhaps “call +again.” Then as you proceed along the streets +attenuated fellows, with scanty, pointed beards and Mother +Shipton hats, accost you with “Going east, gentlemen? +Guess you’ll want to change some money. Come with me, +gentlemen, and I’ll take you to the right +place.” “Thank you,” we say, “not +to-day.” “Wa-a-l, guess exchange will go +against you to-morrow, gentlemen.” Observing on the +door of a very handsome house a brass name-plate with the name +“Mrs. Doctor Sanders,” our guide informed us that +there were many lady doctors in the city, and that they had very +extensive practice.</p> +<p>The Chinese are very numerous in San Francisco, there being +more than 40,000 of them there. At the <a +name="page141"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 141</span>time of my +visit, the feeling of the rowdies ran very high against the +Celestials, and threats of wholesale massacre were freely used +against them. John Chinaman is a most industrious, frugal +man, spending very little upon his living, and nothing upon his +pleasures, always excepting his infatuation for opium. His +needs being few, he can afford to work for very small pay, and +thus comes into competition with the white workman. This is +the head and front of his offending, but it is aggravated by the +fact of his being equally skilful as an artificer. While +the artisans have their special grievances about the Chinese, the +wealthy classes have theirs also. It is true +“John” does his master’s work well and cheaply, +but, as I have said before, he is not a spending man; his sole +object is to get what the Yankees call “his little +pile” as quickly as possible, and then return to his native +land. Nor is this surprising when we consider that every +Chinaman leaves his little “Min-ne” behind him when +he quits the Flowery Land, it being a very rare thing for a woman +to leave China.</p> +<p>The Chinese quarter is full of interest; the people swarm like +bees, and live in a frightfully overcrowded state. The +butchers’ and barbers’ shops are the most numerous +and most interesting, the former being filled with a quantity of +dreadful-looking little portions of meat, but it would puzzle the +most learned to say from what animal they were cut. The +barbers’ shops are situated in the basements of the houses, +with an open front towards the street, and they are very +numerous, for the Chinese are close shavers. On looking +down you may see a number of men seated <a +name="page142"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 142</span>in a +variety of positions, each one smoking a pipe of opium, while the +barber is occupied in shaving every portion of his head and face, +excepting, of course, his beloved pig-tail. The swell +Chinee is very particular that every hair shall be removed, and +so clever do the operators become that, by means of tiny razors, +they can shave the inside of the nose. Some of the +pig-tails are of enormous length, and sometimes the white rowdies +attack the Chinese and cut their pig-tails off.</p> +<p style="text-align: center"> +<a href="images/p142.jpg"> +<img alt= +"The Chinaman (from a sketch by the Author)" +title= +"The Chinaman (from a sketch by the Author)" +src="images/p142.jpg" /> +</a></p> +<p>When a man has an especially fine one, he either rolls it up +at the back of his head and fastens it with hairpins, or else +tucks it inside his blouse. I noticed one of the latter in +particular, a glimpse of which would have delighted Darwin +himself. The owner had evidently let down his back hair +before putting on his blouse, and consequently the pig-tail, +which disappeared at the back of the neck, emerged from under the +blouse and extended to his heels.</p> +<p><a name="page143"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 143</span>Some +of our party, wishing to explore the Chinese quarter by night, +engaged a detective to accompany them, it being unsafe to go +unless so escorted. The guide first took them over a +lodging house, in which some hundred Chinamen were stowed away, +literally almost as thick as herrings in a barrel. Not only +was the floor thickly covered, but suspended above it was a layer +in hammocks, some smoking opium and others sleeping, none, +however, taking the slightest notice of the intruding party.</p> +<p style="text-align: center"> +<a href="images/p143.jpg"> +<img alt= +"Little Min-ne" +title= +"Little Min-ne" +src="images/p143.jpg" /> +</a></p> +<p>On visiting the Chinese theatre during the evening they found +preparations being made to celebrate a Celestial wedding. +This decided them to stay and see the ceremony, which was +attended by a vast number of Chinese, the theatre being crowded +in every part. After the ceremony most of the spectators +formed in the procession, which escorted the happy pair to their +home. My friends also visited the Joss Houses and inspected +the queer-looking gods contained in them.</p> +<p><a name="page144"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 144</span>While +making some purchases in a Chinese shop it was necessary to give +my address. I wrote it out on a card thus—<span +class="GutSmall">TANG-YE</span>, upon which the Celestial at once +claimed me as a countryman of his. I disabused his mind of +that idea by putting my fingers to the outer corners of my eyes +and pretending to extend them in an upward direction, the absence +of which peculiarity showed conclusively that I was not of the +true Mongol type. Curiously, however, on afterwards +consulting a gazetteer, I found that there is in China a city +named <span class="GutSmall">TANG-Y</span>, containing over +30,000 inhabitants.</p> +<p>The Chinese are accused of having brought with them a number +of objectionable practices, but to anyone possessing a knowledge +of the lower classes in American cities, it will not appear +possible that the Chinese can be very much worse than they.</p> +<p>Most of the traffic in San Francisco is carried on by the +tramways, and it may not be out of place to put intending +visitors on their guard with respect to a little peculiarity in +their management. It is advisable to tender the exact fare +if possible, for if you give a larger sum the balance is returned +to you, not in cash, but in tickets available for future rides, +which you may have no opportunity of taking. The hackney +carriages are very fine, being almost equal to English private +carriages. Most of those I saw were splendidly horsed with +a pair of magnificent animals, generally black. The lowest +fare taken is ten shillings, but I am bound to say you can have +full value for your money in the time and the accommodation given +you.</p> +<p>On Sunday morning the city presents a very lively +aspect. The fire-brigades and volunteers parade the <a +name="page145"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 145</span>streets, +preceded by their bands, and thousands of people go by tramway +and other vehicles to see the famous sea-lions at the entrance to +the bay. From the grounds in front of Cliff House they are +seen on the rocks below in large numbers, tumbling about and +making a noise like the barking of dogs, but so loud as to be +heard from a distance of nearly a mile.</p> +<p>The climate is a delightful one, the temperature being +singularly equable, ranging, as it does, in summer from 60° +to 70°, and in winter from 50° to 60° Fahr. +Indeed the weather is so beautiful that one cannot help referring +to it frequently, but the invariable reply to any such +observation is, “Well, I guess we shall have three months +just the same right slick away.”</p> +<p style="text-align: center"> +<a href="images/p145.jpg"> +<img alt= +"Seal Rocks, San Francisco" +title= +"Seal Rocks, San Francisco" +src="images/p145.jpg" /> +</a></p> +<p>After nearly a fortnight’s stay at the Palace Hotel, +enjoying its good fare, we began to think it time to move +eastward, as we were getting too luxurious in our habits. +My friend the lawyer, however, remarked that we need have no fear +on that account, as the fare on <a name="page146"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 146</span>the Pacific Railway would cure the +severest attack of gout. Before leaving San Francisco we +met our old friend “Mister” twice. From a +report in the newspapers we learnt that he had been brought +before the magistrates and fined for carrying fire-arms in the +streets. “Mister” told us the police had taken +all his money on the pretence of taking care of it for him. +When we last saw him he was leaning against a lamp-post, +helplessly drunk.</p> +<p style="text-align: center"> +<a href="images/p146.jpg"> +<img alt= +"The Last of “Mister”" +title= +"The Last of “Mister”" +src="images/p146.jpg" /> +</a></p> +<p>The great excursion from San Francisco is of course to the +Yosemite Valley, but we were compelled to forego the pleasure of +making it on account of our visit being too early in the +season. Some of our fellow-voyagers from the Colonies +ventured to go, but, unfortunately, they met with a serious +carriage accident, owing to the roughness of the road, caused by +the breaking up of the frost.</p> +<p>In order to secure a good seat in the train going East, it is +necessary to make arrangements a few <a name="page147"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 147</span>days before starting. Tickets +can be obtained at a score of places in the city, and should be +got as soon as possible; and in order to save all unnecessary +trouble with the luggage during the journey, sufficient for use +in travelling should be separately packed, and the remainder +handed over to the Baggage Master, who has an office in the +hotel, and who will give checks in exchange, and undertake to +deliver it at any hotel or railway station in New York, or any +other place in the States that may be named. By attending +to this overnight, immense trouble is saved, for, if left until +the morning of departure, each traveller has to look after his +own baggage amid a scene of the wildest confusion, and quite +unprotected from the terrible heat and dust. It was with a +sense of great relief that we began to move out of the station, +and to feel that at last we were fairly started on our ride +across the Rocky Mountains. The railway ride for the first +two hundred and fifty miles is a splendid one, through the +magnificent Sacramento Valley, which I should think is fifteen or +twenty miles wide, and is most fertile. Here corn is grown +year after year without any manuring being required. In +many “cuttings” through which we passed the soil was +twenty feet deep. We passed fields hundreds of acres in +extent, with nice houses, orchards, and gardens, surrounded by +fine oaks and elms, making the country look like a park for a +hundred miles. The corn, which in many places was over ten +feet high, was fast ripening, and its glorious golden colour was +often charmingly varied by immense patches of Marigold, +Eschscholtzia, Lupins, and another beautiful flower which we did +not recognise, all in full bloom. We also <a +name="page148"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 148</span>saw our old +Tasmanian friend the Eucalyptus (commonly called the Gum Tree), +and many of the quaint Doré-like dead Blue Gums, looking +white and ghostly.</p> +<p style="text-align: center"> +<a href="images/p148.jpg"> +<img alt= +"The Eucalyptus (from a sketch by the Author)" +title= +"The Eucalyptus (from a sketch by the Author)" +src="images/p148.jpg" /> +</a></p> +<p>This is a magnificent State. A gentleman remarked to me +that when the richness of the soil is exhausted there remains +untold mineral wealth below. The people, too, are very +energetic, and there is abundance of capital; so much so that a +moneylender travelling in our carriage complained that it is +difficult to get fifteen per cent. per annum now when some twelve +years ago he could easily obtain five per cent. per month.</p> +<p>Soon after leaving Sacramento the track ascends the mountains +and passes through the old gold-diggings so much spoken of thirty +years ago. They are visible all around for miles, and some +are still being worked. <a name="page149"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 149</span>All the abandoned ones have been +re-worked by the Chinese, who have got a great deal out of +them. By and by we stopped at a station where there were +several dreadful-looking Indians, some with their faces covered +with red ochre and with feathers in their hair; others dressed in +scarlet blankets, tall white hats, one-legged trousers and +moccasins. They all looked very grave and stolid. I +did my best to make one old fellow laugh as he stood on the +platform with his arms folded, but his face was stony, and he +remained steadfast and unmoveable. Their hair is like +whalebone, matted and shaggy; their noses and mouths are broad, +and the women look uglier than the men. Several of the +women were carrying their <i>papooses</i> (babies) suspended over +their shoulders, with the legs swathed like Neapolitan +children. The only occupation of these degraded creatures +is begging and stealing.</p> +<p>While we were passing through swampy tract the large +bull-frogs were giving a croaking concert in full chorus, and a +rare noise they made.</p> +<p>Soon we began to sight the snow mountains, and by nine +o’clock we were right amongst the pine forests and the +snow, and very beautiful the scene looked with the moon shining +on it all.</p> +<p>Life on board a “Pullman” train is almost more +peculiar than life on board ship. My party were fortunate +enough to secure a cabin partitioned off from the rest of the +carriage; but the remainder of the sleeping berths have no +partitions, being separated merely by curtains. +Inexperienced travellers are apt to forget this, and sometimes +cause much amusement in consequence. One morning I heard a +young lady <a name="page150"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +150</span>complaining to her mamma that she could not find her +stockings, a remark eliciting numerous offers of assistance from +all parts of the carriage. A neighbouring compartment was +occupied by a lady and gentleman, the former of whom was deaf, +and with the peculiarity often observable in deaf people, she +imagined everyone else was deaf as well; the consequence being +that there were no secrets in that cabin. Every carriage +has a negro attendant, whose duty it is to make the beds and +attend to the lavatories, the ladies’ and gentlemen’s +lavatories being at opposite ends of the carriage. At +half-past nine o’clock Sambo begins to prepare the beds, +and soon after ten almost everyone has retired, and, as +fortunately there are no decks to be paced, sleep soon comes to +the weary. Arrangements are made for three meals a day, the +train stopping at stations convenient for the purpose, and notice +being given half-an-hour before. Half-an-hour is allowed +for each meal, the invariable charge being one dollar. As +the train stops a general stampede is made toward the +dining-room, the position of which is unmistakable, for at the +door stands a negro, with a face devoid of expression, vigorously +sounding a gong. As each person passes in he pays his +dollar, and makes a rush to the end of the room, where the cook +is usually stationed. And now happy is he who possesses the +Yankee’s qualification for a good diner-out, for unless he +has a long arm, a quick eye, and a silent tongue, he is likely to +come off with much less than a dollar’s worth. The +experienced traveller, before sitting down, gathers all the +dishes before him, within arm’s length, and then proceeds +to attack them <i>seriatim</i>, or <a name="page151"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 151</span>sometimes all at once. Indeed, +I think a man of naturally generous disposition, would be made +utterly selfish by twelve months’ travelling on American +railroads. As soon as the half-hour has gone, the guard +calls out with a shrill, nasal, Yankee twang, “All +aboard,” and we once more continue our journey.</p> +<p>Happening one day to say to a fellow-passenger that I was from +Birmingham, an American gentleman hearing me came across the +carriage, and, raising his hat, said: “I <i>must</i> shake +hands with a person coming from the city which returns John +Bright to Parliament.”</p> +<p>The Pacific Railroad is a single track, and, although a +wonderful engineering work, is not by any means a substantial or +confidence-inspiring line, if judged by English standards. +The rails are old and worn, the bridges and viaducts very lightly +constructed, and almost always of wood. I observed in +several cases that the carriages were actually wider than the +viaducts, many of which are open between the rails. It is +hardly to be wondered at that awful accidents sometimes +occur. The train in which we were travelling narrowly +escaped falling into a ravine 120 feet deep. One dark +night, after we had all retired to rest, we were awakened by +continued whistling and ringing of bells. It was in vain +that we inquired of the guards and attendants as to what was +going on, for they, like their brethren all the world over, would +give no information. One thing, however, they could not +hide from us, for we found we were being taken across a viaduct +one carriage at a time, and as we crossed we could see lights +moving about at a great depth below. On arriving at Omaha, +<a name="page152"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 152</span>two days +later, we found a full report of the occurrence in the +papers. It appears that the viaduct had been discovered to +be in an unsafe condition, some of its timbers having been +partially burnt, and it was a matter of discussion whether we +should be allowed to cross at all; it being ultimately +determined, as I have said, to take one car over at a time. +Ours was the last train that went over, for before daylight the +whole structure had fallen with a tremendous crash. The +Indians were on the war-path at the time, and it was supposed +that the work of destruction was theirs. The railway here +runs through some of the most magnificent scenery in the +world. Sometimes its course lies through narrow valleys, or +cañons, where there is just room for the railway and the +river, sometimes through immense pine forests, and then again on +a mere shelf cut in the face of the granite mountain, until the +point called “Cape Horn” is reached. This is +the turning-point between east and west, and soon afterwards the +greatest elevation is attained, 8,200 feet. About sixty +miles of the more exposed portion of the road is covered with +sheds, to protect it from the snow. This result, however, +is not attained without considerable discomfort to the +passengers, as the carriages become filled with smoke and dust +while passing through.</p> +<p>One of the passengers on our train was an old man who had not +crossed the country since he went out to the far west some +twenty-six years before—long before the railway had been +thought of. The party with which he then travelled was so +large that it had to be split into detachments for the +convenience of pasturage. One night his section was +attacked by Indians, who <a name="page153"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 153</span>killed several of the party and +drove off most of the horses and cattle. The old man had +for many years been a trapper in the Indian country and had +invested his hard-won earnings in horses which he was taking out +west for the purpose of trade, and he was not disposed to lose +them all at one fell swoop without making a bold dash for their +recovery. His plan of operations was soon settled, and in +the evening he set off in pursuit with half-a-dozen picked men, +each with his rifle and a good store of ammunition. After +some hours they came upon the scent of the Indians, and moving +cautiously forward amongst the scrub, presently saw them around +their fires busily engaged in dividing the spoils of the +morning. The trapper being a first-rate marksman, it was +agreed he should do all the firing, while the others loaded and +handed up the rifles as fast as required. Every shot told, +and the redskins, judging from the rapid firing that the whole +party of white men were upon them, made a regular stampede, +leaving horses, and cattle, and other spoil behind them. +So, painfully marching on, they came at last to the Mormon +settlement and on to the Salt Lake City, where they were +subjected to the most cruel treatment at the hands of the +“Saints.” These people told the travellers it +was impossible to get to California by the route they were +taking, as the country was swarming with hostile Indians, and +they undertook to show them a better way by which they would get +there in fifteen days. Many suspected treachery, and a +consultation was held, which came to no definite conclusion, +except in the case of one man, who, in the heat of debate, was +shot dead. It was ultimately decided to adopt the <a +name="page154"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 154</span>Mormon +advice, and as the route did not admit of wagons, they tried to +sell them to the “Saints,” who, of course, would not +buy, knowing they would have them for nothing before long. +Many of the travellers burnt their wagons and harness rather than +that the Mormons should have them, but the majority abandoned +theirs, and set out without them. Instead of fifteen days +the journey took thirty-nine, and only a few survived it, most of +the party dying by the way, either by the hand of the Indians or +from fatigue.</p> +<p>For about a thousand miles the railway is open to the prairie, +the consequence being that frequent accidents occur through +cattle straying upon the track. I counted more than twenty +carcases of these unfortunates in one day, and on one occasion, +while sitting on the steps of the Pullman car, I felt a sudden +check, and immediately after the body of a cow flew past. +The herds are looked after by men with lassoes, riding very fleet +horses. American railroads being much less protected from +stray animals than those in England, the locomotives are provided +with an apparatus called a “cow-catcher,” which +consists of an iron framework projecting in front and inclined +downwards as near to the rails as possible. The contrivance +is successful in moving most living obstacles from the +track. For instance, when a cow gets between the rails and +sees the train approaching, it becomes dazed, and the iron frame +striking the lower portion of the legs takes it up readily. +But with a bull it is quite different: when his lordship sees his +enemy approaching he puts his chin down upon his fore-feet and +waits the onset with a confidence not by any means always <a +name="page155"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 155</span>misplaced, +for in this position his head and feet form a wedge which, +becoming inserted beneath the iron frame, frequently throws the +engine back upon the train, causing serious accidents. When +at Ogden I saw the remains of a goods train which had been +wrecked in this way a week before, the engine drivers being +killed, also two stow-aways, or “dead-heads,” as the +Yankees call them, who had secreted themselves under one of the +carriages.</p> +<p style="text-align: center"> +<a href="images/p155.jpg"> +<img alt= +"Salt Lake" +title= +"Salt Lake" +src="images/p155.jpg" /> +</a></p> +<p>Waking one morning we found ourselves in a most awfully +desolate country, with scarcely a sign of vegetation—a +veritable dry and thirsty land, through which we travelled all +day. Towards evening we came to the alkali country, and the +plains looked as though they were covered with snow. This +is a fearful place, where, before the construction of the +railway, many poor emigrants have lain down to die. Soon +after, we skirted the margin of the Great Salt Lake and entered +Brigham Young’s dominions, passing his first town, +“Corinné.” This town was founded by the +Gentiles after Brigham turned them out of the Salt Lake City, but +he soon drove them farther off.</p> +<p><a name="page156"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 156</span>We +left the train at Odgen in order to pay a short visit to the Salt +Lake City, which is situated thirty-six miles off, and is +approached by a railway belonging to the Saints. For beauty +of situation Salt Lake City is almost unrivalled. It lies +in a basin more than twenty miles in diameter, and is surrounded +by mountains, some of which are 12,000 feet high, and most of +them covered with perpetual snow. At the time of our visit +the fruit-trees were in full bloom, and, as each house is +surrounded by its garden, the city occupies a large extent of +ground, presenting a beautiful appearance from the United States +camp, which stands on an elevation commanding the whole city, +about two miles off. A portion of the old mud wall, about +ten feet high, built by the Mormons to resist the attack of the +Indians, still remains standing. Several of the houses are +exceedingly well built, and the gardens kept in excellent order; +one in particular I was much struck with, and remarked to our +guide that it was the brightest and best kept place I had seen +since leaving England. He told me it belonged to an +Englishman who had left for his native country on the previous +day. Curiously enough, when I returned home, I found this +man was a brother of my butcher, and was then on a visit +home. We observed two ladies sitting in the front of the +house engaged in needlework, and were told that they were the two +wives of the English Mormon. It was very noticeable that +these ladies sat at a considerable distance apart, cordiality +(unless it be of hatred) not being a characteristic of these +Mormon wives in their relations with each other. At the +time of our visit the “Prophet” was down south, +looking out for a new <a name="page157"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 157</span>location for the Saints, in view of +the threatened difficulties with the Central Government. We +visited the Tabernacle, and saw the preparations for the new +temple, to which the deluded of all nations continue to +contribute, although it is exceedingly doubtful that the building +will be carried to completion. The man who showed us over +the Tabernacle used to work in a London factory; but he told us +with a curious twinkle in his eye that the “new job” +paid him much the best. At a short distance from the city +there is a sulphur spring, of considerable volume, proceeding +from the side of the mountains; the temperature of the water is +such that eggs can be boiled in it. We slept at Ogden that +night in order to be in good time for securing places in the +train going east in the morning. When the hotel bill was +presented I tendered English gold in payment, having disposed of +my U.S. currency. The landlord refused to take it, saying, +“He would not have the — British gold.” I +explained to him that I had no other money, but to no purpose, +so, as the train was almost due, I told him I would pay him when +I came that way again, but was not sure when that would be. +He quietly said, “I guess I’ll take your gold,” +much to the amusement of the bystanders. At the station +here is a printed notice cautioning travellers to “<span +class="smcap">Beware of Bogus Ticket Sellers</span>.”</p> +<p>For three days after leaving Ogden we travelled through the +snow, passing through a series of cañons or gorges, which +narrow at the base until there is just room for the brawling +stream which runs along the bottom. The railway in such +cases is either excavated on one side of the gorge or carried on +trestles over the <a name="page158"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +158</span>stream. The rocks on the mountain sides, mostly +of red sandstone, are very bold and of strange shapes. +Amongst them is a very weird-looking group called “The +Witches.” Another group, known as “The +Buttes,” bears a most striking resemblance to a line of +strong fortifications commanding the valley.</p> +<p style="text-align: center"> +<a href="images/p158.jpg"> +<img alt= +"Monument Rock" +title= +"Monument Rock" +src="images/p158.jpg" /> +</a></p> +<p>We saw these at sunset, and the effect of the evening light +upon the red sandstone was very fine. In the same +neighbourhood is the celebrated Devil’s Slide; it is formed +by the earth being gradually washed away from between two lines +of vertical strata about 20ft. apart. It is <a +name="page159"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 159</span>some +hundreds of feet in length, and descends into the river. +This valley was the route taken by the Western Pioneers, and is +marked here and there by solitary graves with crosses at their +heads.</p> +<p style="text-align: center"> +<a href="images/p159.jpg"> +<img alt= +"The Devil’s Slide" +title= +"The Devil’s Slide" +src="images/p159.jpg" /> +</a></p> +<p>The whole 8,000 feet descent from the summit to the eastern +plains is made in about four hours. The steam is turned +off, the brakes turned on, and down we go. As we were +preparing to descend I remarked to the negro attendant that I +supposed we must trust the engineer now? “No, +sah,” said Sambo, “I guess we must trust de ole man +up above,” pointing to the skies.</p> +<h2><a name="page160"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +160</span>CHAPTER IX.</h2> +<p>On reaching Chicago we left “the overland train,” +with the object of paying a short visit to Niagara. The +last stage of our long ride was from Omaha, during which we +crossed the Missouri and Mississippi. There being three +competing lines to Chicago the pace became greatly accelerated, +so much so that during a considerable portion of the long ride it +was almost impossible to stand on one’s feet, and the +country being very dry, the train was enveloped in a cloud of +dust almost the whole of the way. We had, however, one +compensation, for attached to the train was a well-appointed +dining-car, with first-rate cuisine. The viands were of the +choicest quality, and in great variety. Moreover, the speed +of the train was slackened during meals, an arrangement affording +a degree of comfort unknown on the Pacific Line. The bill +of fare is a curiosity in its way, being garnished with +appetising mottoes and sentiments, such <a +name="page161"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 161</span>as, +“As you journey through life live by the way,” +“Eat and be satisfied,” and concluding with an +expression of belief that passengers would appreciate this new +feature of “Life on the Road.”</p> +<p>In going through Chicago we were much surprised by the fine +and substantial-looking buildings in every part of the +city. There are fifty to one hundred streets, any one of +which is equal to the best in London; indeed, it struck me as +being more of a city than any place I had ever been in. We +observed a whole block of buildings, including a bank on the +ground floor, and offices above, being removed bodily without any +disturbance of the business operations going on in it. The +water for the city supply is taken from Lake Michigan through a +pipe which extends two miles into the lake. The capacity of +the pumping engines is seventy-five millions of gallons per day, +the greatest demand being forty-five millions. During the +last few years there have been many disastrous fires in Chicago, +directly traceable to the general employment of timber not only +in buildings, but for the side walks and roadways. The +broad streets referred to above are, however, constructed of a +fine warm-coloured sandstone, and all the new streets are being +made of the same material. Nevertheless, a considerable +number of timber houses remain, constituting a standing danger to +the city. While in Chicago I found my passport +useful. On going to the bank to get some money on my Letter +of Credit the manager told me they had not received a copy of my +signature from the bank in England, and that in its absence they +could not honour my draft. It was in vain that I showed him +my watch and other articles <a name="page162"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 162</span>having my name engraved upon +them. He looked at them as though he thought there were +various ways of getting possession of such articles. I told +him I regretted I had not been born with my name on my person, +but I was not accountable for the omission. I then thought +of my passport, and although he appeared to think that it was +possible to obtain possession of that improperly, he accepted it +with the remark that “even that is not conclusive,” +for it should have had a description of my person. We +stayed at the Grand Pacific Hotel, which formed a great contrast +to the Palace Hotel at San Francisco, being uncomfortable and +badly administered.</p> +<p>At Detroit we cross the frontier into Canada, travelling over +the Great Western Railway to Niagara. This line was +constructed by English contractors, and the superiority of the +work is manifested in the smooth, steady motion of the +carriages. Compared with the lines we had previously +traversed this was most comfortable. We pass through +London, Paris, and other places with equally celebrated names, +greatly enjoying the forest scenery, numerous clearings and +bright little homesteads dotted over the country; and for the +first time since leaving England seeing lovely green fields such +as we have at home. At Niagara we stopped at the famous +Clifton House, where we were joined by friends from England.</p> +<p>Our impressions of Niagara were those common to most +visitors—first, a feeling of disappointment, soon +succeeded, however, by an ever-increasing sense of the immensity +and magnificence of the Falls, which grows upon one the more one +sees them.</p> +<p><a name="page163"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 163</span>A +sentiment of disgust, however, is inspired by the ruthless +desecration of the most beautiful spots by Yankee manufacturers, +who have chosen such picturesque positions for their smoky +factories.</p> +<p style="text-align: center"> +<a href="images/p163.jpg"> +<img alt= +"Under the Falls, Niagara" +title= +"Under the Falls, Niagara" +src="images/p163.jpg" /> +</a></p> +<p>Another annoyance constantly experienced is from the +peripatetic photographer, who endeavours to persuade you that you +are greater than the “Falls.” The Falls, +indeed, are made to seem a mere background to your photograph, <a +name="page164"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 164</span>in which he +is careful to show you nearest the camera, and hence +proportionately by far the most imposing object.</p> +<p>To get into Canada we have to cross the suspension +bridge. Going over one day we purchased about £1 +worth of photographs of Canadian scenery. On returning with +them we were accosted by the American customs officer, who +mulcted us in nearly twenty shillings duty. On entering his +office to obtain a receipt we observed a +“six-shooter” at his right hand, presumably for the +purpose of persuasion. On leaving the place I met an +American policeman and told him what a shabby transaction it was +for the representatives of so great a country. He replied +that he guessed the officer must raise his salary. I +refrain from any attempt to describe the mighty Falls of +Niagara.</p> +<p>On our way to New York we travelled by railway to Albany, the +capital of the State of New York, passing through Syracuse, Rome, +and Utica, along the shores of Lake Ontario, although from the +lowering of the ground and the abundance of trees we were unable +to see the lake; thence alongside the Falls River, through very +charmingly diversified country with numerous valleys going up +from the waterside, well-timbered, and here and there a clearing +with open green fields. The houses are in most cases +mean-looking plank erections, presenting a very weather-beaten +appearance, some painted a very dark red colour. In the +evening we reached Albany, an old Dutch town of over two hundred +years, and very Dutch-looking it is with its queer red-brick +houses, wooden pavements, and trees along the streets, and +frequent peeps of the river here and there. Amongst <a +name="page165"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 165</span>the finest +public buildings are those devoted to the national schools, a +true gauge of the importance the citizens attach to the education +of the people. On our way to New York we had an opportunity +of taking a day’s sail on the River Hudson in one of the +celebrated American river-boats. Going on board we found +ourselves on a veritable floating palace. The steamer was a +three-decker, two of the decks being covered with splendid +carpets, and fitted with arm-chairs of a most comfortable +pattern, and with velvet-covered ottomans and couches in all +directions. Taking up one of the books from the +well-stocked bookstall I saw it purported to be one of a series +of standard works by American authors, and on looking down the +list I observed the names of Tennyson, Barry Cornwall, and +others. Our American cousins were always great at +annexation, and the only wonder is they do not call their mother +tongue the “American language.”</p> +<p>The Americans seem anxious that everyone shall admit that the +Hudson is finer than any other river in the world. I have +been down the Elbe, through the Saxon Switzerland, also down the +Danube and the Rhine. The Hudson is far more beautiful than +the Rhine. The banks are thickly wooded, and the villages +and country houses prettily situated. It is true that the +Hudson lacks the romantic associations of the Rhine, but even in +this respect it is not altogether wanting, for does it not +possess the Catskill Mountains, with their legend of Rip Van +Winkle? But I like the Danube best; its banks are loftier +and more rugged, and are covered with pines, and from its +comparative narrowness one can see both sides at once. Then +<a name="page166"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 166</span>again, +the ancient towns and monasteries jutting out on the spits of +land are infinitely more interesting than the wooden houses along +the Hudson. Again, the Elbe, especially in the Saxon +Switzerland, is decidedly more beautiful than the Hudson; but for +all this the latter is a river of which a nation may well be +proud, and we greatly enjoyed our sail upon it.</p> +<p style="text-align: center"> +<a href="images/p166.jpg"> +<img alt= +"The Pallisades, Hudson River" +title= +"The Pallisades, Hudson River" +src="images/p166.jpg" /> +</a></p> +<p><a name="page167"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 167</span>On a +subsequent visit to the Hudson we landed at West Point, the seat +of the celebrated military academy founded by Washington, where +there are some hundreds of students. Our hotel was situated +about two miles from the academy, and overlooked the river from +an eminence of about two hundred feet. The river can be +seen for some miles winding between steep banks on both +sides. The morning after our arrival was a Sunday, and the +church bells were ringing for service. There are two +opposition churches here, but I have reason to believe they are +very charitable to one another; at all events their respective +bell-ringers do not believe in the jarring of the sects, for I +notice that first one rings out +one—two—three—four; then a decent pause, and +his neighbour likewise rings out +one—two—three—four, and so the celestial +harmonies are not disturbed.</p> +<p>On the opposite bank of the river is a place historic in the +annals of the Revolution, for here it was that the American +General Arnold was stationed while he was carrying on his +treasonable correspondence with the ill-fated Major +André. Arnold was sitting at breakfast with his +officers and some guests when word was brought him that +André was captured as a spy by the Americans. +Knowing he would surely be incriminated, Arnold pretended he was +wanted below on urgent business, and, going down to Beverley +landing, he ordered his men to row him to the British man-of-war +lying in the river. Poor André, it will be +remembered, was hanged by order of Washington. His bust was +placed in Westminster Abbey; three times since then has it been +mutilated by miscreants. Walking through <a +name="page168"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 168</span>the village +we observed a mean-looking tumble-down tenement, with an equally +mean-looking signboard stuck upon it, bearing this +inscription:—“John Scales, Justice of the Peace, +Notary Public.” His “Honour” was sitting +inside, in his shirt-sleeves, with a white apron on, while behind +him on a shelf were a few old dry-as-dust books, of the law I +suppose. The whole place looked totally at variance with +our ideas of the majesty of the law; indeed it suggested that +“justice” could be had for the buying, and that no +one was expected to pay much regard to the decision of such a +court. On returning to the hotel I spoke of this +functionary to the negro waiter, suggesting that he <i>dealt</i> +in justice, “Yes, sah; I guess a dollar will go a long way +with him,” replied he.</p> +<p style="text-align: center"> +<a href="images/p168.jpg"> +<img alt= +"John Scales, Justice of the Peace" +title= +"John Scales, Justice of the Peace" +src="images/p168.jpg" /> +</a></p> +<p>Ascending the mountain we came across an old man at work on +the roads. He was a German, having come to America in +1841. He served in the Mexican war, and one of his sons was +killed in the war against <a name="page169"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 169</span>the Southern rebels. The old +man said it was hard work mending roads, and that the winters +were very severe, “but,” said he, “it is a free +country, and that makes up for all. In Germany a man dares +not open his mouth, but here one can say what one +likes.”</p> +<p>Passing by a farmyard our curiosity was aroused by seeing the +stock of poultry secured by the leg to the fence. As we had +often heard in our travels in the States that this was “a +great country,” we presume this was an expedient adopted to +prevent the fowls straying and being lost. Of course, +England being so small, such precautions are not necessary.</p> +<p>We returned to New York in another of the celebrated +river-boats.</p> +<p>During my stay in the States there were two great subjects +which monopolised public attention. These were the +Centennial Exhibition which had just been opened: and the wave of +corruption among officials and others which was sweeping over the +land. More space was occupied in the Press by charges of +malversation and fraud on the part of the officials, from the +President down to the lowest civil service clerks, and from them +through all grades of society, than with the Exhibition itself or +with any other subject, while the talk in the streets seemed to +be about nothing else. In alluding to the unlawful gains +made in this way by many prominent citizens, a New York paper +made use of a sentiment of Mark Twain to the effect that whereas +in times past folks used to say “poor but honest,” +now-a-days when you see a rich man who has accumulated money in a +proper way it is said that he is “rich but +honest.”</p> +<p><a name="page170"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 170</span>I +have travelled in many countries, but in almost everything have +found America twice as dear as any other country. The +charges are simply monstrous. Having to go from an hotel to +the steam wharf, we were not permitted to take our very modest +amount of luggage in the omnibus with us, although we had the +vehicle all to ourselves; but the hotel people insisted upon +sending it in a special wagon, charging two dollars for what a +cabman in Birmingham would willingly have done for a +shilling. On board the steamer we were charged six +shillings each for a plain dinner, without wine, which in England +would not have cost more than 1s. 6d. Bound books are +equally dear. Pocket volumes, containing not more than +one-sixth of the matter in a shilling volume of Chambers’ +“Miscellany of Entertaining Tracts,” were charged two +shillings each. Most of the newspapers, also, are very +inferior to, yet much dearer than, the English papers. +Another form of extortion is to be found in the impossibility, in +many hotels, of obtaining information as to the sailing of +river-boats, departure of trains, etc., the only apparent +explanation being a desire to give “touts” and +“loungers,” of whom there are many, opportunities of +extorting money. These fellows seem to know nothing unless +they can hear the dollars chink, or see the dirty greenbacks (and +some of them are very dirty). A fellow once gave me in +change a dollar note which was so filthy that scarcely a word was +legible upon it. It looked as though it might contain +smallpox or typhoid, so I asked him to wash it. He said he +guessed he would—<i>for a dollar</i>.</p> +<p><a name="page171"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +171</span>Against all this, I am bound to say that the charges +made by the steamboat companies and most of the railways are +exceedingly moderate, and their arrangements in connection with +baggage most convenient. On arriving at any of the large +cities by river-boat, the agent of the Luggage Express Company +comes on board and takes possession of your baggage, giving +vouchers for it. He also undertakes to collect any baggage +you may have sent to the City Railway Station from distant parts +of the country, and very soon after you arrive at your hotel it +is brought to you. At the landing stages in such cities as +New York there are numbers of cabs, mostly driven by Irishmen, +and when they find you have disposed of your luggage and do not +require their services, they give vent to their disgust in no +measured terms, and if the traveller is a Britisher, he is soon +reminded of the fact.</p> +<p>The mode of dealing with baggage on the railway is almost +equally convenient. The following will give some idea of +it. You are travelling, say, from Aberdeen to Penzance, +intending ultimately to proceed by way of London to Dover, and do +not require the bulk of your luggage till you arrive at the +latter place. On leaving Aberdeen, the Baggage Master takes +your superfluous luggage, putting brass labels upon it, +thus—</p> +<blockquote><p style="text-align: +center">ABERDEEN—DOVER.<br /> +846.</p> +</blockquote> +<p>giving you corresponding labels, after which you have no +further occasion to trouble yourself in the matter until you get +to Dover.</p> +<p>We visited the Centennial Exhibition at Philadelphia for the +purpose of inspecting the various productions <a +name="page172"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +172</span>corresponding to our own, hoping, indeed expecting, to +find something which would repay us for coming. We were, +indeed, repaid, but in a sense totally opposed to what we +expected, for we found that so far from Americans being in +advance of the English, they were, in many cases, taking credit +for so-called “improvements” (claiming them as +novelties), which we had been familiar with, and had used in our +own works many years before. They appear to be strangely +unaware of what has been done in European countries, and a single +instance will illustrate this. The machinery in the +Exhibition was driven by a single large steam-engine. The +newspapers made a great deal of this engine, declaring that it +was the largest in the world, and that it had been made in the +smallest State—Rhode Island. An American engineer +with evident pride took us to see the big engine, which, after +all, had a cylinder of only 70in. diameter. We told him +that five-and-twenty years before a small engineering firm in +Cornwall, England, had made several engines with cylinders 144in. +in diameter, and which are yet at work.</p> +<p>We were permitted to inspect some of the most important +engineering establishments, and found the tools of such an +inferior character that our only wonder was that they could +produce either good or cheap work. In most cases the floors +of the workshops were inches deep in ferruginous dust. +Under such conditions every time a heavy casting is dropped on +the floor a cloud of dust must rise, and entering the bearings of +the tools, cut them up badly. We found many of the tools +actually wedged up because of this.</p> +<p><a name="page173"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 173</span>An +American manufacturer speaking to me of a visit he had paid to +the Exhibition in company with his foreman, told me how +astonished the latter was at the excellence of the European +exhibits. He said he had no idea they could make the things +half so well, “for,” he said, “they are almost +as good as ours,” and, I added, “only one half the +cost.”</p> +<p>The agricultural machinery was exhibited in a separate +building erected specially for its reception, and here the +Americans were unmistakably far ahead of all competitors.</p> +<p>At the time of our visit several consignments of calicoes had +been made to England and to various British markets, and sold at +prices considerably below what they could be produced at by +English manufacturers. This incursion occasioned great +disquietude in England until the cause was manifested—viz., +overproduction. On this point I read an article in a New +York Protectionist paper intended as an answer to the Free Trade +argument, that Protection increased the price of goods. The +article stated that this was not so: and to prove its position +said that the tendency of Protection was to induce people to go +into manufacturing who know little or nothing of the processes +they were undertaking, but who fancy that with the tariff of from +40 per cent. to 80 per cent. upon foreign goods, there must +necessarily be a sufficient margin to compensate for mistakes +caused by their inexperience. “And so it +happens,” continues the writer, “that there is great +over-production, ruinous competition among American +manufacturers, frequent failures, and consequently large stocks +of goods are forced on the markets at a great loss, the public +getting <a name="page174"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +174</span>cheap supplies in consequence.” Adam Smith +would scarcely have quoted this as one of the methods of adding +to the wealth of nations. But if the people at large obtain +their cotton goods cheaper through this system of +over-production, it is clear that the millowners are not the only +sufferers, for it appears from a speech delivered by Mr. Shearman +of New York, at the Cobden Club dinner in the present year +(1883), that the wages of the factory operatives are twenty per +cent. less than in Lancashire, while their hours of labour are +from eighteen to twenty per cent. longer.</p> +<p>During the late Fair Trade agitation its advocates were never +tired of telling the English working-classes that under +Protection their brethren in America were prospering in a +remarkable degree, but in the speech to which I have referred Mr. +Shearman shows that the average wages in protected trades are +actually less than in 1860, the last year of comparative Free +Trade, and that while in the ten years previous, wages were +constantly increasing, during the succeeding twenty years +(1860–1880) there was no appreciable advance, while during +the past three years they have been steadily declining; so that +here we have one of the staple trades of the country requiring +longer hours of labour from the operatives, at considerably lower +wages than for the same class in England, while the cost of +living is much higher than in this country, and the climate much +more trying from the extremes of heat and cold.</p> +<p>Nor is this all, for the American operatives have very much +less relaxation than the same class in England, their holidays +being very much fewer. Last year my workpeople, in addition +to fifty-two Saturday <a name="page175"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 175</span>afternoons, had nineteen whole days, +although there was abundance of work for them, and the +necessities of the business only required six days closing of the +works. The English artisan loves to have a deal of liberty, +and his earnings enable him to indulge his desire in that +respect.</p> +<p>As may be supposed, the ranks of the operatives in the cotton +mills of America receive no accession from England, but only from +Germany and Scandinavia, where wages are low, and the oppressive +military systems drive people from their native countries.</p> +<p>During the last seven years of depression in trade in England +it is well known that, taken as a whole, the working classes have +suffered comparatively little, the loss falling mainly upon +manufacturers, whose profits have been greatly lessened. +But how would the working-classes have fared if, in addition to +the loss of home trade involved in the failure of the crops for +so many years, the same causes were in operation which make it +impossible for America to have a great foreign trade?</p> +<p>It is manifest that so long as Protection exists in the United +States exports must necessarily be confined almost entirely to +such commodities as other countries cannot produce. Until +recently the home demand has kept the manufacturers in the States +well employed; but competition has now become exceedingly fierce, +and they are beginning to tread upon each other’s +heels. It is this state of things which is destined to +exert the most potent influence upon the fate of +Protection. The very class which has hitherto been loudest +in demanding prohibitory duties upon imports, will soon, from +sheer necessity, be found demanding their removal.</p> +<p><a name="page176"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 176</span>It is +worthy of note, too, that while under Protection the earnings of +the producing class have been steadily declining, colossal +fortunes, amounting in one case to twenty or thirty millions +sterling, have been built up by individual monopolists. On +the other hand, during the same period and under Free Trade, +there has been a wider distribution of material comfort in +England, and, as shown by the official returns, a decided +decrease in the number of millionaires.</p> +<p>In passing through America on my return from Australia in +1876, I expressed the opinion that Free Trade there would be by +no means an unmixed blessing for English manufacturers, for +whereas at the present time a vessel going to Australia from the +United States with a cargo of goods has to come back in ballast, +doubling the cost of freight, under Free Trade it would take back +a cargo of wool, and the Americans would consequently become our +competitors both in buying and selling.</p> +<p>With the single exception of having higher wages—and +this advantage is more than balanced by the extra cost of +living—I have failed to find that American artisans are in +any way better off than the English, while, as I have already +shown, their hours of labour are longer and the effect of the +climate much more exhausting.</p> +<p>A very striking feature to be met with in most American cities +and towns is the large number of tolerably respectable-looking +men loafing about and doing nothing. In England such men, +only in shabbier dress, would be called +“cadgers.” I am told there are large numbers +who prefer any shifty mode of obtaining a living so long as they +can wear a black coat <a name="page177"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 177</span>and avoid honest labour. In +the villages along the banks of the Hudson I saw more children +without shoes and stockings than are to be met with in any part +of England in a similar area. They go to school shoeless, +and a woman told me that when shoes were put on their feet on +Sundays they complained loudly. A land of freedom for +tongue and foot!</p> +<p>During the Southern rebellion fears were expressed that the +result of emancipation would be to flood the markets of the North +with negro labour, but this does not appear to have been the +case. As long as slavery existed the North was attractive +to the negro as the land of freedom, but when freedom was +proclaimed throughout the States the negro naturally elected to +remain where he had always been—the climate and +surroundings being well suited to him. The head waiter at +our hotel at West Point was a slave in Richmond until the middle +of the war, when he escaped to Washington. I asked him how +he got there. “Oh, by the underground railway,” +said he. It took him a week to travel the hundred miles, +and he had many narrow escapes, but was fortunate enough to come +out all right and to get a situation to wait upon one of Abraham +Lincoln’s sons. He told me his owner, a lady, taught +him to read and write in face of the certainty of being sent to +jail in case of being discovered. His father was sold away +down south sixteen years before, but since that day they had +again met at Richmond. “Well,” I said, +“neither Jeff. Davis nor any of his crew will ever play you +such pranks again.” “No Sir,” said +he.</p> +<p>The regulation of the liquor traffic in the American cities +appears to present as many difficulties as it does <a +name="page178"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 178</span>in England, +especially as regards the Sunday traffic. The Sunday before +we left New York the police made a raid upon the liquor dealers +in the city, and arrested a number of them for selling during +prohibited hours. Their organs threatened all sorts of +reprisals at the coming election, and a meeting of the trade was +called to condemn the action of the authorities. Most of +the requisitionists—judging by their names—were +either German or Irish. At the time appointed some hundreds +of liquor dealers assembled, and presently a gentleman came on +the platform and began to address them. Soon, however, it +began to dawn upon the trade that they had been somewhat +considerably sold, for the speaker gave them a regular teetotal +lecture, enlarging upon the evils the dealers were responsible +for, and warning them to forsake their wicked ways. The +audience could not stand this, and threatened the orator that if +he didn’t “make tracks right away” they would +give him “something hot,” upon which he quietly +retired, having given them the first temperance lecture they had +ever heard.</p> +<p>Our visit to America was brought to a fitting termination by +another glorious excursion on the Hudson: after which it was with +great pleasure and satisfaction that we went on board one of the +splendid White Star Liners, soon to land again on the shores of +dear old England.</p> +<h2><a name="page181"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +181</span>CHAPTER X.</h2> +<p>We arrived off Suez about four o’clock on the morning of +the 1st of March, having travelled from Australia in the +magnificent steamship “Orient.” After saying +farewell to our friends, at seven o’clock we set out for +the shore, our boat being manned by a picturesque party of Arabs. +We had about four miles to go, the latter portion of the journey +being through water so shallow that the men had to propel the +boat by nimbly running forward and placing one end of the oar in +the mud and pushing against the other with the shoulder; singing +a monotonous song all the while. On arriving at our +landing-place opposite the Custom House, a motley crowd rushed +forward, some dressed in night-shirts, some in towels, others in +their own black skins only. When we stopped, a score of them +dashed into the water and began to seize our luggage, seeing +which our boatmen called to us to beat them on the head with our +umbrellas, and to kick them off; but we <a +name="page182"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 182</span>managed to +defend our property by loud words, which broke no bones. +Then we were carried ashore amidst such shrieking, hustling, +jostling, and shouting as I had never heard or seen before. +The luggage was set down in the middle of the square to await the +arrival of an official from the Custom House.</p> +<p style="text-align: center"> +<a href="images/p182.jpg"> +<img alt= +"A Dragoman" +title= +"A Dragoman" +src="images/p182.jpg" /> +</a></p> +<p>After a very slight examination we were permitted to pass, and +then began another battle for the luggage; but we selected as our +dragoman a tall, stout fellow named Hassan, who quickly routed +the others; and then a file of these half-naked Arabs marched off +to the hotel with the luggage on their backs. The Suez +Hotel is a very comfortable establishment, with large, clean, and +airy rooms, and bright and attentive native servants.</p> +<p>After breakfast we went for a stroll through the town. +The streets are very narrow, and the tiny <a +name="page183"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 183</span>shops are +filled with vegetables and other garden produce, oils, simple +metal wares, etc. In one street the Bedouin Arabs have +stalls for the sale of charcoal, brought by them from the desert; +a very sullen, repulsive set of fellows they appear to be. +There are few European buildings, and what there are were built +for the French officials during the construction of the +Canal. These were all vacated during the Franco-German war, +and very few French have since returned, consequently the houses +are in a very dilapidated condition.</p> +<p>Before leaving England we had arranged for a party of our +friends to meet us at Suez, and on returning from our stroll in +the town, we walked for a while in the large inner court of the +hotel, when presently we saw our friends entering, they having +landed just three hours after our arrival from Australia.</p> +<p>After lunch, nine of us took donkeys and had a ride round the +town and neighbourhood. Not being assured of my riding +ability, I asked my companions to keep near me, which they +promised to do, and which they doubtless would have done if they +could; but alas! their noble brutes dashed off at full speed, and +I was left alone. At every street corner stood a mob of +darkies shouting, laughing, and begging, and calling out the +names of the various donkeys, “Mrs. Langtry,” +“Mrs. Cornwallis West” (this was mine), “Mr. +Spurgeon,” etc. On getting back to the hotel gates +there was a crowd of about fifty donkeys, all their fifty drivers +wanting us to engage them for our next ride, and it required a +vigorous use of Hassan’s stick to clear a passage for +us.</p> +<p><a name="page184"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 184</span>On +the following morning we left for Cairo by train, and in due time +Hassan appeared with about a dozen men and a shaky old wagon to +take our luggage to the station, and truly it was a formidable +lot—a lady and gentleman from Australia having no less than +nine trunks.</p> +<p style="text-align: center"> +<a href="images/p184.jpg"> +<img alt= +"An Egyptian Donkey-Boy" +title= +"An Egyptian Donkey-Boy" +src="images/p184.jpg" /> +</a></p> +<p>At the hotel gate stood the usual fifty donkeys, their drivers +all shrieking out to you to take their donkeys. “My +donkey good donkey, sah; his name, Mrs. Langtry.” +“‘Dis donkey, Sir Roggar (<i>sic</i>) Tichborne, sah; +he go gentle.” You have to push through the crowd of +men and animals as you best can. The <a +name="page185"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +185</span>never-ceasing word <i>backsheesh</i>, or its +abbreviation <i>’sheesh</i>, hissing in your ear all the +way. On suddenly turning a corner you may come upon a lot +of children or grown-up people engaged in play or other +occupation, but they are always ready. Their hands are +immediately stretched out, and the cry is on their lips, +<i>’sheesh</i>! <i>’sheesh</i>! nor do they seem +surprised if you fail to respond. Sometimes I vary it by +putting out my own hand, with temporary success as far as +checking their begging goes, but they are soon equal to the +occasion, and with mock gravity will offer a quarter +piastre—about a halfpenny—and then you laugh and they +laugh.</p> +<p>I had often read, that properly to understand Biblical +allusions it is necessary to travel in the East. This +constant extending of the hand for <i>backsheesh</i> gave me an +entirely new appreciation of the passage, “Ethiopia shall +yet stretch forth her hand.”</p> +<p>After much excitement the train at last starts, and a mob +accompanied it as far as they can keep up by running, hoping +against hope that you will at length relent and throw them some +money. Once I offered a beggar a new penny, but he handed +it back very gravely, saying “No good—piastre” +(meaning that he wanted a piastre); but I pretended to be +offended, and did not give him anything.</p> +<p>Every little station on the road is infested with crowds of +natives hoping for <i>backsheesh</i>, and it is wonderful what +vast numbers of people there are who have nothing to do. At +most stations you will see an ill-favoured fellow with a +goat-skin across his back, filled with water, but I should have +to be very thirsty <a name="page186"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +186</span>indeed before I could drink from it. An hour +after leaving Suez we saw our old friend the s.s. Orient in the +Canal close alongside, having taken twenty-four hours to +accomplish this distance.</p> +<p style="text-align: center"> +<a href="images/p186.jpg"> +<img alt= +"The S.S. “Orient.”" +title= +"The S.S. “Orient.”" +src="images/p186.jpg" /> +</a></p> +<p>At Ismailia we stopped some time, and a lad wanted to clean my +boots which, however, did not require cleaning, so I told him to +black the bare feet of a brown boy who was standing by. +This he proceeded to do in the presence of a crowd of grinning +spectators of all colours—yellow, brown, coffee-coloured, +and jet black. The lad whose feet were blacked seemed to +enjoy the fun very much, and when it was over appeared to think +he was entitled to a half piastre as well as the operator, so he +got it. The shoeblack then brought an ebony Nubian, whose +skin was already a shining black. He asked me if he might +do his feet, but I made him understand it was quite +unnecessary. A grave-looking Turk observing the proceedings +gave a look which seemed to say, “Mad English +again.”</p> +<p><a name="page187"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 187</span>At +Zagazig we stayed two hours for luncheon, and were much +interested with the infinite variety of costume and feature among +the crowds thronging the station. About half an hour before +reaching Cairo, on looking through the window, we had our first +view of the Pyramids. On our arrival at Cairo we were +greeted with a chorus of the usual kind, but having +“wired” to the hotel a porter was awaiting us with an +omnibus, and we were soon comfortably located in the new Grand +Hotel.</p> +<p>A walk to the Nile Bridge gave us a good view of the +river. The road to the Pyramids passes for some distance +through a fine avenue of trees, and the river having encroached +on the soil too near to the roots, we saw for the first time a +phase of Egyptian life which is not pleasant—viz., forced +labour. About 1,500 men were engaged in piling up earth +against the roots, forming a thick, deep embankment against the +river. The soil is carried in baskets, and from the +elevation where we stood the men looked like a swarm of +ants. These men are provided by the Sheiks of the villages +on the demand of the Government, who pay nothing whatever for the +labour. The men receive neither wages nor food, but each +village looks after the families of its absentees, and attends to +their work until their return. The men certainly seemed to +labour with a will.</p> +<p>The Nile begins to rise about the end of June, reaching its +greatest height about the end of September, continuing for about +fifteen days at twenty-four feet above low-water level. If +the rise be thirty feet great damage is done, and if it fail to +reach eighteen feet famine ensues.</p> +<p><a name="page188"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 188</span>We +rode for some distance along the valley of the Nile, which varies +from two to twelve miles in width. It is very fertile, the +soil being more than forty feet deep. It is only needful to +sow the seed immediately after the inundation, and in about four +months the harvest is ready to be gathered. The plough in +use is a very primitive article; but the looseness of the soil +renders stronger ploughs unnecessary. In many places as we +went along we saw the natives irrigating by means of the bucket +and pole, with a counterbalance at the end (<i>shadouf</i>), +raising water from the Nile and sending it along the channels +over the fields. In one field we saw agriculture being +carried on as Adam would have done before the Fall, had it been +necessary, the men being quite naked, and digging the earth with +their hands.</p> +<p>Returning to the city we took a walk through old Cairo, along +the narrow streets, passing many little workshops where various +trades were being carried on, the owners appearing pleased at our +noticing them at work. In one place some men were grinding +beans with a huge pestle and mortar, and showed us some of the +meal. In a secluded corner we saw about a dozen old fellows +in every variety of costume sitting on the ground listening to a +very animated story being told by one of the party. They +appeared to be greatly interested, every now and then lifting up +their hands in amazement. These professional story-tellers +are a great institution in Cairo.</p> +<p>Passing down one of the narrow streets our attention was +arrested by the busy hum of children’s’ voices, which +we found proceeded from an upper room, <a +name="page189"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 189</span>the +casement of which was open. Our guide told us it was a +school, and that the children were repeating passages from the +Koran.</p> +<p style="text-align: center"> +<a href="images/p189.jpg"> +<img alt= +"The Schoolmaster “Abroad”" +title= +"The Schoolmaster “Abroad”" +src="images/p189.jpg" /> +</a></p> +<p>One of our party, who had not forgotten the pranks of his +boyhood, threw a number of new threepenny pieces into the midst +of the boys, causing great excitement and confusion. +Presently an old man, with a fringe of white hair <a +name="page190"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 190</span>encircling +his dark face, and wearing a huge pair of brass-framed +spectacles, appeared at the open window brandishing his cane at +us, but in a moment his whole attitude changed, and holding out +his hand he uttered the familiar cry +of—<i>backsheesh</i>.</p> +<p style="text-align: center"> +<a href="images/p190.jpg"> +<img alt= +"A “Peep”" +title= +"A “Peep”" +src="images/p190.jpg" /> +</a></p> +<p>Our walk took us through one of the bazaars, which consist of +very narrow lanes full of shops, with dealers in every variety of +goods, most of which are made in the open. We were +particularly struck with the beautiful embroideries of gold and +silver thread, and the expeditious way in which the workmen +executed the various designs. All were very anxious we +should buy, and I overheard one old rascal offer our Coptic guide +ten per cent. commission on our purchases. We, however, +made none. In passing the carpet bazaar we saw an English +party buying dingy carpets.</p> +<p><a name="page191"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 191</span>The +most interesting part of our day’s experiences was spent in +the manufacturing quarter. There are no large factories in +Cairo, and I question if more than half a dozen people are +employed at any one place. The work is carried on in the +most primitive fashion in the little shops facing the street.</p> +<p style="text-align: center"> +<a href="images/p191.jpg"> +<img alt= +"“Bery Cheap, Sah!”" +title= +"“Bery Cheap, Sah!”" +src="images/p191.jpg" /> +</a></p> +<p>There can be but few secrets in the various trades, as the +workshops are all shallow, and open to the streets. All the +jewellers are in one street about 8ft. in width, each of them +being provided with a safe, obviously of English +manufacture. I do not think, however, that the bellows used +by them were made in Birmingham, for it was curious to note that +they had no valves. At the end of the jewellers’ +street sits an old fellow like Abraham or Isaac, weighing +precious metals in a pair of evidently very accurate +scales. This man acted <a name="page192"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 192</span>as general weigher for the trade, +and his operations were carried on in the face of the +public. Leaving the bazaars we met a crowd of natives +gesticulating, shouting, and frolicking in a very excited +manner. Standing aside to allow the throng to pass, we +found it was a bridal procession conducting a bride to her +husband’s home. A few tattered minstrels walked in +front, making a hideous noise on pipes and drums, while a gang of +young men jumped and danced about, and indulged in the wildest +horse-play. The women were ornamented with strips of gilt +paper and coloured ribbons, and had their cheeks thickly coated +with rouge. The bride walked under a canopy consisting of +four poles covered with canvas and was quite enclosed. +Sometimes this portable tent would collapse upon the fair one, +whose struggles were prominently manifested by bulges in the +canvas. The whole party seemed to be making the most of the +occasion.</p> +<p>We next visited the mosque of Sultan Hassan, which was built +in the 14th century, at a cost of £600 per day for the +three years it took to complete. It is the finest mosque in +Cairo. While standing beside the Sultan’s tomb within +the mosque our guide related its history. He said that for +three years the Sultan had been absent from Egypt on pilgrimages, +and that during his absence his Grand Vizier declared himself +Sultan. Hassan hearing of this returned to Cairo in the +disguise of a poor pilgrim, and finding that he had still many +adherents he consulted with some of the principal of them as to +the best way of regaining his rights. He first obtained +permission to build this mosque, and <a name="page193"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 193</span>when it was finished his partisans +assembled in the building in large numbers.</p> +<p style="text-align: center"><a name="page194"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 194</span> +<a href="images/p193.jpg"> +<img alt= +"The Mosque of Sultan Hassan" +title= +"The Mosque of Sultan Hassan" +src="images/p193.jpg" /> +</a></p> +<p><a name="page195"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +195</span>Hassan, still in the pilgrim’s habit, rose to +preach to the people—this was the preconcerted signal for a +general massacre of the usurper and his supporters; and thus +Hassan recovered his throne. At the entrance to the mosque +our boots were covered with sandals, so that our feet might not +touch the holy floor; but custom does not demand the removal of +the hat. In the court-yard is a fountain where the faithful +perform their ablutions before prayer. In front of the +niche looking towards Mecca were about a dozen persons at their +devotions. Just in advance of them stood a mollah or +priest, and as he bowed his head or kneeled they did the same, +concluding with chanting or singing a prayer. Whilst we +were looking around a little boy was following us, keeping a +sharp look out lest our slippers should come off, and if they +showed any signs of coming loose he at once brought up a man to +fasten them.</p> +<p>One of the sights of Cairo is the egg-hatching +establishment. This institution is rendered necessary, +because the hens are too idle to hatch their eggs in this +country, consequently the operation has to be artificially +performed. The people bring their eggs to the hatching +place and receive one chicken for every two eggs. I +observed the Egyptian eggs are very small, due also to the +laziness of the hens, doubtless.</p> +<p>We next visited the citadel and the mosque of Mohammed Ali, a +magnificent pile, built early in this century. In the +courtyard of this place the Mamelukes in 1811 were massacred by +order of Mohammed Ali. <a name="page196"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 196</span>Fearing their power he invited them +to the mosque, and closing the gates slaughtered them all, save +one who escaped by leaping with his horse from the parapet. +The horse was killed, but the rider was uninjured. About +450 persons were here massacred, and 800 in other parts of the +city. The citadel commands a magnificent view of the city +and surrounding country, and every evening large parties of +tourists assemble there to see the sunset.</p> +<p>The excursion to the Pyramids of Gizeh is now much more easily +made since Ismaïl completed the carriage road by way of +compliment to our Royal Princes on their visit. Our party +was conveyed in carriages, while donkeys had been previously sent +forward for the use of the ladies. While on the +carriage-road the view of the Pyramids is altogether lost till +within a mile of the end of the journey, acacias having been +thickly planted on either side of the road. On leaving the +carriages we were at once surrounded by beggars, who continued to +infest us all the time we were in the neighbourhood. Some +were loud, almost menacing in their demands, others soft and +insinuating. One kind, which I call the “quiet +devil” or “familiar,” creeps by your side, and +whispers in your ear confidentially that he is “a good +man”; that the others are “bad men”; that he +will not bother you for anything; that you are “a good +man”; that he will “help you, and keep off the +others.” But alas! he too is sure to whisper in +conclusion <i>backsheesh</i>. If the road is a little rough +these “good men” seem to fancy you cannot get on +without help, so one on each side puts a hand under your arm and +half carries you along. It is quite useless to <a +name="page197"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 197</span>protest; +they look at you as though they would say, “poor man! he +thinks he can walk by himself; but we know better; he would fall +at once did we not hold him up.” And then, when we +reach level ground again, there is a universal chorus +of—<i>’sheesh</i>, <i>backsheesh</i>.</p> +<p style="text-align: center"> +<a href="images/p196.jpg"> +<img alt= +"Ascending the Great Pyramid" +title= +"Ascending the Great Pyramid" +src="images/p196.jpg" /> +</a></p> +<p>On arriving at the little house at the foot of the Pyramids +our guide Abaid summoned the Sheik of the village, who proceeded +to detail two men for each person who intended to make the +ascent—ladies and fat men being allotted four men each to +help them up. The weather being extremely hot my sister and +I were content to see the rest of the party make the ascent while +we sat in a shady place at the base. A group of twenty +Arabs of the most patriarchal aspect squatted on the ground in +front of us in a half-circle; immediately our eyes fell upon any +one of them he mutely extended one hand—not so much to help +us as to be helped—instantly lowering it without complaint +on our looking elsewhere. This would become +monotonous. I would occasionally show by my look that I was +annoyed, upon which the beggar would get a crack over his head +from one of his neighbours.</p> +<p>The Great Pyramid of Cheops is 732ft. along the base line and +460ft. high, covering an area of 536,000 square feet—about +equal in extent to Lincoln’s Inn Fields in London. +Its height is about 60ft. higher than the cross on St. +Paul’s Cathedral. My wife managed the ascent very +well, and also went with the rest to explore the interior, and +all seemed greatly pleased with their exploits. A fee of +two francs to the Sheik and a franc a piece to the helpers is the +regular charge for each <a name="page198"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 198</span>person; but even the Sheik is not +above taking a little extra by way of <i>backsheesh</i>. +Our party were quite ready for their lunch, which Abaid quickly +spread out in the little house provided by the Government for the +accommodation of visitors. We were shown into a large room, +and while at table the doorways were filled with a hungry crowd, +quarrelling, laughing, and jostling each other.</p> +<p style="text-align: center"> +<a href="images/p198.jpg"> +<img alt= +"View on the Nile" +title= +"View on the Nile" +src="images/p198.jpg" /> +</a></p> +<p>Some of the bolder spirits at length got into the room, but +our guide seizing his stick administered two or three heavy +blows, and soon cleared them out. It was wonderful to see +how tamely big men will allow themselves to be driven. +Truly the stick is a great institution in Egypt, although perhaps +none but the ruling class would acquiesce in the inscription +found in one of the ancient tombs to the effect that “The +stick came down from heaven—a blessing from God.”</p> +<p><a name="page199"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +199</span>Before sitting down to eat, a boy brought water that we +might wash our hands. The mode was certainly +primitive. We had to hold our hands out of the window while +he poured water over them. A noisy crowd of Arabs were +sitting under another window, and a barber in the midst was +operating upon the head of one of them, and it was really +wonderful how cleverly he shaved, making a clean sweep of every +lock and every hair. I asked Abaid if the men were under a +vow, but he said it was because summer was coming on, and it +would be cooler without hair.</p> +<p style="text-align: center"> +<a href="images/p199.jpg"> +<img alt= +"The Sphinx" +title= +"The Sphinx" +src="images/p199.jpg" /> +</a></p> +<p>After a scene of great confusion in paying the various +claimants, during which the Sheik had to make a vigorous use of +his long stick, we started to see the Sphinx, which is about 500 +yards off. Before leaving, <a name="page201"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 201</span>I called the Sheik and gave him two +francs, that he might instruct his men to keep the mob from +us. This he accepted with great solemnity, and in parting +shook hands in a most impressive manner.</p> +<p style="text-align: center"> +<a href="images/p200.jpg"> +<img alt= +"A Wash and a Shave" +title= +"A Wash and a Shave" +src="images/p200.jpg" /> +</a></p> +<p>The Sphinx is cut out of the solid rock, and is about thirty +feet from the top of the head to the bottom of the chin, and +about fourteen feet across the face, the body being 140 feet +long. I could see no beauty in the face, the features being +almost obliterated.</p> +<p>Near the Sphinx is a fine underground temple formed of immense +granite blocks and polished alabaster. The pavement is of +granite and is perfectly smooth. Some of the finest statues +at Bûlak were found in a well adjoining this temple.</p> +<p>Leaving our hotel at seven a.m., we started for Gizeh station +<i>en route</i> for Sakkara, the railway taking us as far as +Bedrashên. We had engaged eleven donkeys for carrying +our party and the food necessary for the whole day’s +refreshment. The confusion at Gizeh station in obtaining +our tickets and getting the donkeys into the train was something +tremendous. Fortunately, the morning was rather cool.</p> +<p>On arriving at Bedrashên we had some difficulty in +finding the right donkeys, and I had great misgivings about the +prospective five hours’ ride; but at last we got fairly +off, and by degrees my confidence returned. We soon reached +Mîtrahîneh, the site of ancient Memphis, now only +marked by a vast number of heaps and mounds of rubbish, under +which are doubtless buried many treasures of ancient Egyptian +art. A number of articles which have been recently dug out +were shown <a name="page202"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +202</span>in a rude enclosure; one or two of the statues +beautifully executed. Lying in a pool, face downwards, is a +statue of Ramses II. belonging to the British Museum, but the +authorities of that institution have not yet taken the trouble to +remove it. The statue is 50ft. long, and is of siliceous +limestone, very hard, and bearing a high polish. In one +hand the figure holds a scroll bearing his name, and at his side +is his little daughter, reaching to his knee. The face is +still quite smooth, the features are sharply cut and delicately +finished, and the expression perfectly preserved, looking really +beautiful. Memphis was said by Herodotus to extend for six +miles. It was conquered in turns by Persians, Assyrians, +and Romans, each of whom did their share towards ruining it, and +when at last the Mohammedans conquered the country, its doom was +sealed, and the stones of its palace and temples taken away to +build the new city of Cairo. The dykes being no longer kept +in repair, the overflow of the Nile gradually piled up the mud +year by year, and this, with the sand from the desert, has, in +the course of ages, made Memphis little more than a name. +Memphis is called in the Bible <i>Noph</i>, and in the time of +the Patriarchs was the capital of Lower Egypt; but the prophecy +of Jeremiah, xlvi. 19, has been literally fulfilled: “Noph +shall be waste and desolate.”</p> +<p>Leaving Memphis we go on to Sakkara, for thousands of years +the ancient Necropolis or burying-ground. In the centre +stands the great Step Pyramid, built in steps of comparatively +small pieces of stone. It is said to be not only the oldest +pyramid, but also the most ancient monument of any kind in the +world. The cemetery <a name="page203"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 203</span>is four and a half miles long by an +average of three-fourths of a mile in width, and being full of +holes it is necessary to be very careful in crossing it. +The ground is strewed with skulls and other human bones, some of +the former being of great thickness. Soon we reached the +house of Mariette Bey, built for his use when he was engaged in +his explorations, and here, by his permission, parties are at +liberty to rest and take their lunch.</p> +<p>The first object of interest is the Serapeum, or Apis +Mausoleum. When alive, the sacred bull was worshipped in a +splendid temple at Memphis, and lodged in an adjoining +palace. When dead he was buried in this mausoleum, in a +vault excavated out of the solid rock, his body being placed in a +huge sarcophagus hewn out of a single piece of granite, and +hollowed into a regular square to receive the body. A +cover, also of granite, and weighing many tons, was then placed +over it. The size of the sarcophagus is 13ft. long, 7ft. +6in. wide, and 11ft. high.</p> +<p>This mausoleum had for ages been known to exist somewhere, but +no one knew the locality. The ancient Strabo wrote, +“There is also a serapeum in a very sandy spot where drifts +of sand are raised by the wind to such a degree that we saw some +sphinxes buried up to their heads, and others half +covered.” Mariette, recollecting this passage, +observed in 1860 a sphinx’s head appearing through the +sand, and it at once occurred to him that this must be the site +of the avenue of which mention is made by another ancient writer, +so he commenced a clearing and laid bare 141 sphinxes. To +do this he had to make a cutting in the <a +name="page204"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 204</span>sand 70ft. +deep; but at length he was rewarded by discovering the entrance +to the mausoleum.</p> +<p style="text-align: center"> +<a href="images/p204.jpg"> +<img alt= +"The Serapeum, Sakkara" +title= +"The Serapeum, Sakkara" +src="images/p204.jpg" /> +</a></p> +<p>There are several galleries for the different dynasties, but +only one is now shown, the interments in which date from 650 +<span class="GutSmall">B.C.</span> down to 50 <span +class="GutSmall">B.C.</span> The galleries extend for 400 +yards, and there are now twenty-four sarcophagi in their +places. Three of these are beautifully sculptured. +One of them is of polished granite, and although the engraving is +only 1/16 in. deep, a mere scratch in the polish, it is as clear +as when first done, over 2,000 years ago, and so perfect is the +stone that it rings like a bell when struck.</p> +<p>From the Serapeum we proceeded to examine one of the tombs, +also excavated by Mariette Bey. It is called <a +name="page205"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 205</span>the Tomb of +Tih. Over the doorways of these ancient tombs it was the +custom to inscribe the name and titles of the deceased, and also +an invocation to the God of Tombs (the tomb having been built +during life by the person himself), with these +objects:—</p> +<p>1st.—To accord to deceased propitious funeral-rites, and +a good burial-place after a long and happy life.</p> +<p>2nd.—To be favourably disposed to deceased in his +journey beyond the tomb.</p> +<p>3rd.—To secure to him, to all eternity, the proper +payment of funeral-offerings by his relations.</p> +<p>A list of these offerings is carved upon the walls, which are +covered with sculptures representing the scenes in which the +deceased had been engaged during life, ending with a +representation of the conveyance of the mummy to the tomb. +The tomb itself contains several apartments, in which the +relatives met upon certain anniversaries to present +votive-offerings, etc.</p> +<p>We were astonished to see the perfect state of preservation in +which the tomb remains. The sculptures on the walls are as +sharp and clear and the colours apparently as bright as when laid +on. Sand is a good preservative when not in motion, and to +this must the marvel be ascribed. Over the door is the +inscription giving Tih’s name, and stating that he was a +priest; and on the walls of the first chamber are representations +showing statues of Tih being embarked in boats and oxen being +brought for sacrifice, one of them being offered up. There +is another showing Tih with his wife and family watching his +people at work in the farmyard. Some of them are <a +name="page206"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 206</span>bringing +sacks of grain for the poultry; others are fattening the birds by +making and forcing pellets of flour down their throats. +Behind this there is a view of the farm-buildings, the roofs +being supported on carved wooden pillars.</p> +<p style="text-align: center"> +<a href="images/p206.jpg"> +<img alt= +"From the Tomb of Tih" +title= +"From the Tomb of Tih" +src="images/p206.jpg" /> +</a></p> +<p>In the middle there is a pool where ducks are swimming, while +cattle are seen pasturing in the fields around. Among the +birds Tih kept are cranes and pigeons, ducks and geese. He +had also cattle of every size and kind, including antelopes, +gazelles, and wild goats. Then come the boats filled with +jars and bales transporting farm produce down the Nile. In +another place men are shown carrying fruits and vegetables, and +pigeons in cages. Farther on are seen men drawing statues +enclosed in temples of wood, half-a-dozen dragging with ropes, +while one pours water on the road to make it easier. In +another room Till is shown as a sportsman in a boat; in one hand +he holds a decoy-bird, while with the other he hurls a curved +stick like an Australian boomerang. In the water are seen +crocodiles and hippopotami: a crocodile and hippopotamus are +fighting, the latter being evidently victorious; some of the +servants are trying <a name="page207"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 207</span>to catch them, and the hippopotamus +is just being hooked with a sort of harpoon. (This scene +recalls the verse in Job, “Canst thou draw out the +leviathan with a hook?”) Here again the fish are +being drawn in nets into the boats, while the work of the farm +goes vigorously on. Cows are seen crossing a ford and +browsing in a field, while herdsmen are driving a flock of +goats. Oxen are ploughing just as we saw them in the fields +to-day, and with a very similar plough. The seed is being +sown, corn reaped, and men with three-pronged forks are gathering +it into heaps while the oxen are treading it out. In +another place the corn is being tied into sheaves, and donkeys +are being brought up with much fuss and use of the stick to take +it to the granaries. Some of these scenes are drawn with +inimitable humour. Carpenters are engaged in making +furniture, and shipwrights in building boats, while Tih is always +present directing each operation.</p> +<p>The Egyptians were said by Diodorus to call their houses +hostelries, and their tombs their everlasting homes.</p> +<p>We now remounted our donkeys, and for an hour rode over the +sandy desert through dreadful mud villages, from which all the +population turned out as we passed, crying with all their +might—<i>’sheesh</i>, <i>’sheesh</i>, +<i>backsheesh</i>, <i>’sheesh</i>, +<i>’sheesh</i>.</p> +<p>Passing several strings of camels—which I described as +“camelcades,” coining a word for the purpose—we +soon regained the delightfully fertile country which is watered +by the Nile. For more than two hours we trotted and +galloped along through a very rich country, where hundreds of +acres of date-palms <a name="page208"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 208</span>were growing—where the young +corn was waving, and peas, beans, and cucumbers in great +luxuriance—no more dust nor sand, but a pleasant breeze and +bright sun, with nothing to mar the pleasure except the sight of +the wretched natives. Most of the children are absolutely +naked, while their parents’ clothes are of the most limited +description.</p> +<p style="text-align: center"> +<a href="images/p208.jpg"> +<img alt= +"A Camelcade (sketched by the Author)" +title= +"A Camelcade (sketched by the Author)" +src="images/p208.jpg" /> +</a></p> +<p>We halted for lunch under some palm-trees by a branch of the +Nile, and then proceeded to the carriages, which we had ordered +to meet us in the Gizeh road. Some of us had to ride back +into Cairo on our donkeys, and on our way we passed the Khedive, +who cordially acknowledged our salutation. All our party +agreed in saying that to-day’s excursion was one of the +most delightful we had ever had.</p> +<p style="text-align: center"><a name="page209"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 209</span> +<a href="images/p209.jpg"> +<img alt= +"Prayers in the Desert" +title= +"Prayers in the Desert" +src="images/p209.jpg" /> +</a></p> +<h2>CHAPTER XI.</h2> +<p>Friday being the Mohammedan Sabbath we devoted this day to the +Dancing and Howling Dervishes, as they hold their principal +<i>zikr</i> or ceremonial on that day. We first visited the +convent of the dancing Dervishes and witnessed one of their +performances, and certainly a curious spectacle it was. In the +centre of the room a space of about 50ft. in diameter is railed +off, and about twenty solemn-looking men in hats like the tall +“tile” without brims are sitting opposite the +door. They looked like a lot of ancient +“Friends” at the head of a meeting. In the +gallery above were some musicians, one of whom was playing a +flute in a melancholy manner, and another reciting a +prayer. At a certain point the Dervishes within the circle +bow and rise, and taking off their outer garments begin walking +round the enclosure with solemn steps and slow, headed by the +Chief Priest or Sheik. On passing the carpet upon which the +Sheik has been sitting they turn and bow, and this is repeated +two or three times; then they go into the middle of the +enclosure, <a name="page210"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +210</span>spreading out their garments like ladies in the old +minuet; the music quickens, and they begin to whirl around on one +foot, occasionally touching the ground with the other. The +performers’ eyes are closed (or appear to be so), but they +keep on in perfect order—never touching one +another—while the old Priest walks about among them. +Some of the more experienced Dervishes can revolve fifty or sixty +times a minute, keeping it up for nearly half an hour. It +was a curious proceeding altogether, and, for a wonder, no +<i>backsheesh</i> was demanded, the Priests being supported by +endowments and occasional gifts from the Khedive. Mounting +our donkeys we rode off to the Howling Dervishes, where we found +them in full howl. About twenty of them were engaged in +making the most hideous noise imaginable. These fellows had +their hair very long and shaggy, and threw it about their heads +in the wildest manner. Every time they raise their heads +they utter the word <i>HU</i> (God alone), which sounds like the +yell of a wild beast, at times the excitement rising to such a +height that some of them would foam at the mouth and fall to the +ground apparently in a fit. They wound up their proceedings +with a prolonged howl and a deep grunt. These Dervishes, +like their dancing brethren, are supported by Government +endowment.</p> +<p>I have no doubt that when first instituted these “pious +orgies” were entered upon with a due sense of solemnity, +and I believe in places remote from the regular tourist route the +religious feeling still predominates, but the Howling and Dancing +Dervishes in Cairo have long since become one of the regular +sights to which foreign visitors are always taken.</p> +<p><a name="page211"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 211</span>Upon +the occasion of our visit there were several clergymen present, +more than one artist, and a number of ladies, amongst the latter +being a placid looking Quaker, who, with hands folded before her, +was calmly surveying the “creaturely activity” of the +Howling enthusiasts.</p> +<p>We afterwards paid a visit to Miss Whateley’s Schools, +at the British Mission. There are over 300 native children +here, and we heard many of them read in English and French, and +also do some exercises in translation. The girls were +engaged in embroidering, reading, and writing, and they sang two +hymns in Arabic while we stayed. Then we saw them muster +for the recess, and a bright little fellow stepped out into the +middle of the hall and repeated the Lord’s Prayer, first in +English and then in Arabic, after which they went out in a most +orderly manner. Miss Whateley seems much encouraged at the +result of her many years’ labours; but I have no doubt she +has had her times of discouragement. My wife visited an +Arab school in Syria, the superintendent of which told her that +after two years’ continuous labour amongst the people of +his district, the result was so unsatisfactory that he was +greatly discouraged and was inclined to abandon the +mission. Calling the people together he told them of his +disappointment, and said that although he had worked diligently +amongst them for so long a time, they appeared to be no better +than before, and that he felt that he must leave them. The +people, who had received many benefits from him in various ways, +began to be seriously alarmed, and entreated him to try them yet +again. One man got up in the meeting and said, <a +name="page212"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +212</span>“Teacher, you must not go, you have made us much +better. When you came first there was a woman living near +who used to steal all the fowls in her neighbourhood, but +now,” he said, “<i>she only steals the +eggs</i>.” The superintendent’s features +somewhat relaxed on hearing this, and the quick-witted Arabs +immediately perceiving their advantage, renewed their appeals, a +woman rising and saying, “Teacher, when you came first my +neighbour’s son used to thrash his mother every day, but +since he has been at your school he only thrashes her once a +month.” The superintendent remained, and is well +satisfied with the progress which has since been made.</p> +<p>In the afternoon we went for a drive in the Shubra Avenue, +which is the Rotten Row of Cairo. The custom is to drive +quickly up one side, returning slowly on the other, the drive +occupying an hour. The Khedive drove past us in his +carriage, preceded by two magnificent fellows (<i>sais</i>) whose +duty it is to run in front of the carriage. They were +dressed in gorgeous gold tissue waistcoats, long white skirts, a +silk sash of many colours round the waist, a fez with long +tassel, legs and feet bare, and in the hand a handsome +staff. These men run quite as fast as the horses, keep up +the pace for a couple of hours, and are employed to clear the +crowded streets for the carriages. This they do by shouting +loudly in a fine resonant voice, which is very effectual. +The avenue was crowded with carriages, some of them containing +ladies of the harem. Their carriages have windows all +round.</p> +<p style="text-align: center"> +<a href="images/p213.jpg"> +<img alt= +"A Runner, or Sais" +title= +"A Runner, or Sais" +src="images/p213.jpg" /> +</a></p> +<p>Some of the ladies are shrouded as for burial; others leave +only the eyes uncovered, while some (the prettiest, <a +name="page214"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 214</span>presumably) +wear only thin gauze veils, through which their faces are plainly +to be seen. All wear the same languishing expression, and +appear to be very fond of peeping at the Europeans, and as we +passed and repassed them they would recognise us with a smile, +and then, to save appearances, turn away. When we passed +the guard-house the soldiers turned out, thinking it was the +Khedive’s carriage, and drew up in saluting order.</p> +<p style="text-align: center"> +<a href="images/p214.jpg"> +<img alt= +"In Shubra Avenue" +title= +"In Shubra Avenue" +src="images/p214.jpg" /> +</a></p> +<p>They were greatly disgusted on discovering their +mistake. At four o’clock a general stampede of +carriages, horsemen, runners, and pedestrians takes place, and +the road is soon quite deserted.</p> +<p>One of the features of Cairene life is the universal use of +donkeys by all classes of the people; ancient women shrouded from +head to foot in black gauze, old men with long grey beards, and +noses not much <a name="page215"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +215</span>shorter—their heads wrapped in turbans, and robes +covering the donkeys’ backs—jogging along, rubbing +against the British tourist, the latter looking anything but +grave and serious on his Jerusalem pony. Our party +certainly did not look more <i>bizarre</i> than others; but we +should not feel inclined to enter Birmingham in the same state as +we often entered and left Cairo.</p> +<p style="text-align: center"> +<a href="images/p215.jpg"> +<img alt= +"Water Carriers" +title= +"Water Carriers" +src="images/p215.jpg" /> +</a></p> +<p>One morning we got up early for a donkey-ride across the Nile +to see, amongst other things, the garden and farm produce arrive +from the country round. Crossing the Nile we turned down a +fine avenue of sycamores, two or three miles long. The +Khedive’s gardens lie on one side and the river at the +other. Moored to the river bank was an Englishman’s +<i>dahabieh</i> <a name="page216"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +216</span>or Nile boat. A party had just returned from the +cataracts, and on the upper deck we observed a dead +crocodile. Riding by one palace towards another, we passed +a crowd of people on their way to market, with bullocks, goats, +camels laden with clover, women with the round cakes so common +here, and a great variety of other things. Presently we +sighted the Pyramids, one side lit up with the morning sun, while +another was in deep shadow. The Sphinx was also plainly to +be seen.</p> +<p>Leaving the Gizeh Road leading to the Pyramids we turned +towards Cairo, our donkeys instantly knowing that we were +homeward-bound, and needing no persuasion to gallop back to +breakfast. On nearing the bridge we came upon hosts of +camels, donkeys, and oxen laden with produce, and being assessed +for the octroi or town-tax. The police were armed with long +spikes, which they pushed into the load to ascertain if anything +else was packed inside. It was an interesting +scene—the busy crowd, the magnificent river, and the +brilliant morning sunshine making up a picture not easily +forgotten.</p> +<p>One of the most interesting drives in the neighbourhood of +Cairo is to Heliopolis—part of the way lying through a fine +avenue of acacias—and passing the old camping ground used +as a <i>rendezvous</i> by the Mecca pilgrims. It is the old +caravan road, and stretches far away into the desert, from which +came to us a delightfully fresh breeze. We also passed the +Abbaseyeh Palace, built by Abbas Pasha, who, fearing +assassination, lived here in seclusion, keeping sentinels on the +towers to give warning of the approach of a mob, and <a +name="page218"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 218</span>dromedaries +and fleet horses always ready saddled for escape into the +desert. He was, however, murdered at last in spite of all +his precautions.</p> +<p style="text-align: center"> +<a href="images/p217.jpg"> +<img alt= +"The Tombs of the Khalifs" +title= +"The Tombs of the Khalifs" +src="images/p217.jpg" /> +</a></p> +<p>Along the road are some beautiful plantations of palms, +oranges, and lemons, castor-oil and other plants growing in the +greatest luxuriance. Heaps of oranges were lying on the +ground. After driving through a fine olive plantation we +came out upon an extensive plain, where, in 1517, Sultan Selim +defeated the last of the Mameluke Dynasty, and made Egypt a +Turkish province. Here too, in 1800, the French defeated +the Turks and regained possession of Cairo. Our guide +called a halt in order to show us a fine old sycamore, called the +virgin’s tree, under which Joseph and Mary are said to have +rested during their flight into Egypt. I asked Abaid if he +believed the story. Placing his hand upon his heart and +bowing his head, he replied, with something of the +sententiousness of a Dr. Johnson, “Sir, I am a +Christian!” I felt inclined to tell him that I also +was a Christian, but that I did not believe it; but then why +should I disturb his honest belief? Soon the obelisk of +Heliopolis came in view, and we knew we were near it by the crowd +of youngsters swarming round the carriage. But I adopted my +old plan of being the first to ask for <i>backsheesh</i>, causing +them to laugh so heartily that they could hardly take up the +cry.</p> +<p>The obelisk is about 6ft. square at the base and about 68ft. +high; it is the oldest in Egypt, and was erected by the founder +of the twelfth dynasty. The inscriptions on its four sides +give its history and the account of its erection about 3,000 +<span class="GutSmall">B.C.</span></p> +<p style="text-align: center"><a name="page219"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 219</span> +<a href="images/p219.jpg"> +<img alt= +"A Street in Bûlak" +title= +"A Street in Bûlak" +src="images/p219.jpg" /> +</a></p> +<p><a name="page220"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +220</span>Heliopolis was called Bethshemish by the Jews, and in +Exodus is called ON. It was here that Joseph married +Asenath, the daughter of Potipherah, and where Moses became +learned in the wisdom of the Egyptians. Here Plato and +Herodotus studied, and Josephus says—“The city was +given to the Children of Israel as their residence when they came +down into Egypt.” The obelisk, as we see it, was old +when Abraham came into the country; but, notwithstanding its +venerable age and intensely interesting associations, it has not +been too sacred for tourists who have been caught chipping pieces +off the edges.</p> +<p>After lunch we drove to Bûlak, an interesting suburb of +Cairo. The houses are very old, and the street-scenes very +curious and thoroughly Eastern in character. The large +overhanging windows and casements familiar in pictures are +everywhere to be seen, and now and then a glimpse of a female +face is caught peeping furtively out at the passers-by. The +streets are very narrow, and the coachman yells and shouts at the +foot-passengers in his way, not scrupling to apply the whip to +quicken their movements. All this is taken +patiently—far too much so—and betrays the saddest +side of Egyptian character, speaking volumes for the way in which +the people have been treated.</p> +<p>Hard by was a curious sight. Standing against a wall, +and raised above the level of the street like another Simon +Stylites, was a strange-looking man, whose only raiment consisted +of a sack, through a hole in which one arm was thrust. In +his hand he held a small instrument like a garden-rake, with +which he tortured his back, while his gaze “seemed upon the +<a name="page222"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 222</span>future +bent.” Some irreverent tourists looking on were +presently moved to laughter at the peculiar exhibition, upon +which the holy man gave them one glance of wonder and pity, and +then resumed his gaze into futurity.</p> +<p style="text-align: center"> +<a href="images/p221.jpg"> +<img alt= +"A Holy Fakir" +title= +"A Holy Fakir" +src="images/p221.jpg" /> +</a></p> +<p>It being fair-day, there were a large number of booths, cheap +theatres, peep-shows, merry-go-rounds, etc., just as one sees in +England. In another place was a story-teller, surrounded by +an appreciative audience, who treated every “point” +with loud laughter. It was curious to see how earnest and +interested they all were, and the dramatic manner in which the +story was told.</p> +<p>The National Museum for Egyptian antiquities, founded by +Mariette Bey, is situated in Bûlak. Our time being +short, we proposed paying it another visit, which, however, we +were unfortunately unable to do. Much of the sculpture is +really marvellous in its life-like character. One of the +most remarkable statues is of wood, and is said to be 4,000 years +old. It is admirably carved. There is also a large +collection of jewellery, beads, enamels, etc.; chess and +draughtboards, an artist’s paint-box and brushes, bread, +eggs, fruit, pieces of well-made rope and thread; an axe of gilt +bronze, having a gilt cedar-wood handle; a gold boat with twelve +silver oarsmen, and many other curiosities. The museum is +one of the most interesting sights in Egypt, and will well repay +many visits.</p> +<p>In the evening some of our party took donkeys and a guide and +returned to Bûlak to see some of the shows, but the first +they visited was of so extraordinary a character they decided to +see no more until their taste was educated up or down to the +present Egyptian standard.</p> +<p><a name="page223"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 223</span>The +railway journey from Cairo to Alexandria occupied about 6½ +hours. The line crosses the Delta of the Nile, the country +being very flat all the way.</p> +<p>The soil here is extremely fertile, and it was very +interesting to watch the various agricultural operations as we +rode along. We particularly noticed the many modes in which +water is supplied to the land. Alongside the railway runs a +stream issuing from the Nile, and the different holdings of land +are bordered with little streamlets in place of hedges.</p> +<p style="text-align: center"> +<a href="images/p223.jpg"> +<img alt= +"A Wrecked Ship of the Desert" +title= +"A Wrecked Ship of the Desert" +src="images/p223.jpg" /> +</a></p> +<p>At the junction of these streamlets with the main stream may +frequently be seen a couple of men standing on either bank +lifting water from the river to the streamlets by means of a huge +flat bowl, holding probably eight to ten gallons. This +vessel is lifted on either side by means of two long handles +diverging from each other, and it is surprising how large a +quantity of water can be thrown up by means of it <a +name="page224"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 224</span>in an +hour. The bowl is always in motion with a fine swing, and +it is evident the men are working on their own account.</p> +<p>Every station at which we stopped is crowded with people +selling oranges, water, etc., and very clever they are at their +business too, very persuasive, and as quick as thought to see if +you are inclined to buy. The children are the merriest, +liveliest things imaginable, with bright eyes and shining white +teeth. Here also may be seen numbers of beggars, young and +old, calling out eternal <i>backsheesh</i>. We saw some +venerable old fellows, bent nearly double with age, and with hair +and whiskers quite white, who entreated us piteously to help +them, saying “Got no mother, got no father, +<i>backsheesh</i>!” Such orphans as these never +obtained our sympathy, although they afforded us great +amusement.</p> +<p>While in Cairo, news came of the dissolution of Parliament by +Lord Beaconsfield, and we hastened to Alexandria to take the +steamer for Italy on the following day; but on arriving we found +the weather so excessively rough that the steamers were detained: +and, as there seemed no prospect of getting off, we determined to +proceed to Port Saïd, by way of Ismailïa, in order to +take the steamer sailing thence for Naples, hoping on some future +occasion to be able to see what is to be seen in +Alexandria. A day’s railway-ride brought us to +Ismailïa, from which place we took the evening mail-boat to +Port Saïd. The night was very cold, and after a seven +hours’ trip on the Canal it was very pleasant to find +ourselves in the magnificent hotel built by Prince Henry of the +Netherlands, attached to the Dutch factory at Port Saïd.</p> +<p><a name="page225"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 225</span>One +of the Orient Steamers was due to sail on the following day, and +we expected to proceed to Naples in her, but after providing us +with tickets the agent sent us word that she had been detained a +week and that we must choose another vessel. There was no +other way of escape than by taking the P. and O. Steamer +“Mongolia” to Malta, trusting to being able to find a +ready means of crossing to Naples from that place. +Unfortunately a heavy storm in the Mediterranean had the effect +of delaying our arrival in Malta some hours, and we had the +mortification of seeing the Naples steamer leaving the harbour as +we were entering it. We arrived on Monday and found there +would not be another steamer until Thursday, and as the +Birmingham election was to take place on Wednesday in the +following week our chance of getting there seemed very +doubtful. Leaving Malta, however, on the Thursday, by dint +of almost continual travelling night and day, we arrived safely +in Birmingham at half-past ten on the Wednesday morning, and +proceeded at once to register our votes for Bright and +Chamberlain, two of the three successful Liberal candidates.</p> +<p style="text-align: center"> +<a href="images/p225.jpg"> +<img alt= +"Au Revoir" +title= +"Au Revoir" +src="images/p225.jpg" /> +</a></p> +<h2><a name="page226"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +226</span>CHAPTER XII. <a name="citation226"></a><a +href="#footnote226" class="citation">[226]</a></h2> +<p style="text-align: center"> +<a href="images/p226.jpg"> +<img alt= +"In the Suez Canal" +title= +"In the Suez Canal" +src="images/p226.jpg" /> +</a></p> +<p>After a stormy passage through the Mediterranean we turned in +towards Port Saïd, and soon after sighting the handsome +lighthouse took the French pilot on board, anchoring broadside on +to the main street of the town and within fifty yards of the +shore. A motley throng, in boats quite as motley soon +filled up the space between the ship and the shore, and a wild +jabber composed of a mixture of English, French, Italian, and +Arabic filled the air. Presently the usual tribe of pedlars +came on deck, and having spread out their wares invited the +passengers to buy, somewhat after the fashion of London tradesmen +in Cheapside hundreds of years ago with their cry of “What +lack ye?” The inevitable Maltese with his lace, the +Greek money-changer walking about with his hands full of silver +offering to change, and astonishing the honest Britisher <a +name="page227"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 227</span>on his +first voyage by his liberality in proffering twenty shillings for +a sovereign—the rate of exchange, however, leaving him a +very good profit. Near him is a Hebrew, whom I remember +having seen at Aden, the black curls over his brow reminding one +forcibly of Benjamin Disraeli. This man keeps to his trade +of dealer in ostrich feathers.</p> +<p style="text-align: center"> +<a href="images/p227.jpg"> +<img alt= +"A Feather Merchant" +title= +"A Feather Merchant" +src="images/p227.jpg" /> +</a></p> +<p>Here also are gentlemen of the long robe—not lawyers, +but Arabs, in ample white night-shirts and turbans—offering +to young ladies in the most seductive tones, at two shillings +each, coral necklaces, which can be purchased in Birmingham at +three shillings the dozen, while dealers in photographs, melons, +and oranges walk about always ready to take one-fourth of what +they ask for their wares. Parallel with us are the quays, +on which are crowds of people of all nationalities. The +Custom House in front is occupied by a company of English +artillerymen, the entrance being guarded by a British sentry, +while overhead the Egyptian flag is flying. Away to the +left is the old Dutch hotel, <a name="page228"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 228</span>recently bought by the British +Government, and now occupied by two hundred men of the Royal +Marine Light Infantry.</p> +<p>Immediately in front of the ship is the main street of the +town. It is perfectly straight and about half a mile long, +with a small public garden near the end. In this street are +a large number of <i>casinos</i>, where music is dealt out at +nights by bands of female performers, who are called +“Bohemiennes,” and where, we are assured, everything +is properly respectable—until eleven o’clock! +Many of our lady passengers, in the innocence of their hearts, +looking forward to a pleasant concert during the evening, are +much shocked when they learn that the said concerts are held in +<i>casinos</i>.</p> +<p>We landed at ten o’clock, and had a leisurely walk +through the town and halfway through the Arab quarter, but the +smells were so offensive that we turned back. A lot of +young Arabs, however, urged us to go on farther, for there was an +Arab hanging, but as we did not think a dead Arab would be likely +to be a more agreeable sight than a living one we declined. +The culprit had been executed that morning for the murder of his +grand-daughter, nine months previously. An account of his +crime was written in Arabic and attached to his breast, and the +large scissors with which he committed the murder were suspended +around his neck. Some of the young Arabs were vexed with us +because we would not give them <i>backsheesh</i>, and began to be +insulting, talking about Arabi, when presently a smart youth of +ten years old interfered, and, cuffing the ears of the young +monkeys, loudly proclaimed the prowess of the British.</p> +<p><a name="page229"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 229</span>We +went to look at the Dutch House where the Marines were quartered, +and a young officer, Lieutenant Cotter, kindly asked us to go +over the building. The rooms are very fine; but what a +change in the scene since we slept here for a night two-and-half +years ago! Then the hotel was in operation, and the rooms +were furnished as elaborately as in the house of an English +gentleman. But everything had been taken away, and the +officers were sleeping on the marble floors, and the men on the +floors of the adjoining warehouses, where also the horses were +stabled. Lieutenant Cotter had made a bedstead for himself, +and one of his men had made him a bath, and these, with a chair, +completed the furnishing of his room; his wash-basin consisted of +a large flower-pot, with a cork in the hole at the bottom. +The Marines arrived in Egypt a few days after Tel-el-Kebir, and +so saw no fighting; but they had to march over to Fort Gemileh, +seven miles away, and fully expected a very severe fight, as the +fort is heavily armed with modern guns, and was manned by +Nubians, who are reported to be excellent soldiers. +Fortunately, however, there was no need to fight, as the +commander recognised that the war was over.</p> +<p>At night a number of our passengers, of all classes, went +ashore to attend the concert, and one of them known as Cetewayo, +<i>alias</i> the Carrib or the Pirate King, announced his +intention of kicking up a great row at the <i>casino</i> (of +course <i>after</i> eleven o’clock), and he was as good as +his word, and others besides, several having to be locked up for +the night. We visited the soldiers in the barracks, and <a +name="page230"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 230</span>they were +very glad to have a chat. We sent them the newspapers we +had brought from England; with which they were greatly +pleased. They told us the numbers, variety, and voracity of +the insects was something maddening; some being busy at night, +and others during the day, and that it was almost impossible to +keep oneself decent. Altogether Port Saïd must be a +dreadful place for Englishmen to live in; there was very little +society, and I was told that at the time there was only one +unmarried lady left.</p> +<p>The commanding officer of the Marines told us that the +principal duty they had to perform as “police” was to +keep the English sailors and visitors in order, almost all the +drunkenness and trouble coming from them—to our disgrace be +it said.</p> +<p>The land all along the coast lies very low, and is not seen +until the yellowish-green water near it is reached. The +water is discoloured by the mud of the Nile, one of the mouths of +which (the Tanitic) is situated a little to the west of Port +Saïd. This ceaseless flow of mud was one of the +greatest difficulties experienced in making the Canal, and +necessitated important and expensive works to prevent its access +to the harbour. Lake Menzaleh is formed by this Nile mouth, +and covers an area of about 1,000 square miles. Good +wildfowl shooting is to be had there, and there are numbers of +flamingos and other birds. Port Saïd, as is well +known, owes its origin to the Canal, and is situated on an island +separating Lake Menzaleh from the Mediterranean. The town +was expected by M. de Lesseps to progress very +rapidly—indeed to rival Alexandria, but it has not gone +ahead so fast as he <a name="page231"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 231</span>expected. At present there are +about 12,000 people there, and I should say more than half are +Europeans. The town is built very regularly, and consists +of rather temporary brick and wooden houses. The making of +the harbour was a very difficult work. It occupies 570 +acres, and is excavated to a depth of 26ft. Two massive +piers protect it, running out to the sea in a north-easterly +direction for about a mile and a half. At starting they are +1,440 yards apart, narrowing to 770 yards, the navigable entrance +being about 150 yards wide. The piers are constructed of +artificial stone, composed of seven parts of sand from the +desert, and of one part of hydraulic lime from France. The +concrete was mixed by machinery, and then poured into great +wooden moulds, where it remained for weeks, after which the wood +was taken away to allow of the blocks hardening. Each block +weighed twenty tons, and contained 13½ cubic yards; no +fewer than 25,000 of these blocks were used in constructing the +breakwater. The lighthouse is a very handsome structure, +and is also formed of blocks of concrete; it is 164ft. high, and +can be seen twenty-four miles away, being fitted with the +electric light. (<i>Baedeker</i>).</p> +<p>At 4.30 p.m. our vessel started for the Canal, and having +safely entered it made fast for the night, as no travelling is +allowed after sunset. During the evening myriads of gnats +and mosquitoes came on to the ship, the electric light being +absolutely dimmed by them in many places, and we had good reason +to expect a trying night from their presence.</p> +<p>While our ship’s doctor and a party of friends were +ashore at Port Saïd they were greatly amused by the <a +name="page232"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 232</span>attention +of a number of Arab lads who followed them everywhere. +During their walk in the native quarter the party came upon a +great crowd, and one of the young Arabs referring to the man who +had been hanged during the morning stated that the man was not an +Arab, but a Greek, and proceeded to explain the distinguishing +characteristics of the various nationalities represented at this +cosmopolitan port; he said—</p> +<p>“The Greek, he bery bat man, he stab—so (with a +vigorous motion as though stabbing an opponent in the chest).</p> +<p>“’gyptian, he bery goot man, he only slap, so.</p> +<p>“English man, he bery goot man (striking an attitude); +he say ‘Come on and box.’</p> +<p>“English man—he bery goot man.</p> +<p>“English man—he bery goot man.</p> +<p>“Melikan man—he bery goot man.</p> +<p>“Melikan man—he bery goot man.</p> +<p>“’talian man—he bery bat man.”</p> +<p>Ending with a very uncomplimentary allusion to our Irish +fellow-subjects.</p> +<p>What is wanted to make Port Saïd really prosperous is a +railway from the interior to bring the produce from the cotton +and wheat fields, and then the steamers which bring the coals +could at once load up for home, saving the necessity of going +empty to Alexandria for their homeward freights. Last year +540,000 tons of coal were sold at Port Saïd, and all the +ships which brought it had to go away empty. But so long as +the Canal Company are entitled to all the Customs dues at Port +Saïd, it is not to be expected that the Egyptian Government +will favour the construction of such a line.</p> +<p><a name="page233"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 233</span>Some +of our fellow-passengers were members of the Blue Ribbon Army, +and although they were by no means obtrusive in supporting their +views, being contented for the most part with wearing the +“bit of blue”—others resented this reasonable +liberty, styling it an impertinence, and formed themselves into +an opposition Order, which they called the <i>Red</i> Ribbon +Army, and they busied themselves in enlisting recruits. It +was noticeable that, with the exception of an old +<i>roué</i> or two, only young men with small heads and +long legs, who, if they ever indulged in reading, confined their +choice to books translated or adapted from the French, composed +the rank and file, the officers being older men, who were not +often seen out of the gambling or smoke-room. One of these +latter was called the “Spider,” because from an early +hour in the morning he sat in the smoke-room waiting to +“play” with any who might choose to try conclusions +with him.</p> +<p>The Patron and President of the Society was a noble lord, and +certainly a better choice could not have been made. Amongst +the rules of the Society were these:—</p> +<blockquote><p>Any member found without his red ribbon is to be +fined in drinks all round.</p> +<p>Members are to be neither too drunk nor too sober.</p> +<p>Members must never go to bed quite sober.</p> +<p>Members must never refuse a drink.</p> +</blockquote> +<p>The President certainly set a fair example in his endeavour to +perform the duties of his office, and would never be mistaken for +a member of the Blue Ribbon Army, even if he did not wear the +badge, for good wine had marked him for its own. Under the +<a name="page234"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +234</span>fostering influence of such rules and such a +“noble” example, it is not to be wondered at that the +Army showed a blatant front to the enemy, and that their +proceedings soon became disorderly. At this juncture some +good-natured moderate men joined the Reds, with the view, it +appears, of moderating their offensive tactics, and the result +was a manifesto which set forth, amongst other things—That +the Red Ribbon Army entertained no feelings of ill-will toward +those who did not agree with them, and invited all to join their +ranks, and that they assured abstainers that there was always +iced water on the sideboard of the smoke room for their +convenience. One of the chiefs of the Reds was a dark man, +already referred to as Cetewayo, <i>alias</i> the Carrib. I +one day heard this worthy call one of the Reds to account for +appearing without his badge, the defaulting member replying that +he had “resigned.” “That won’t +do,” said the Carrib, “Once a member always a member; +come and pay up.” Yes, I thought, when the devil has +once got his claws in a man retreat is all but impossible.</p> +<p>Every one of the young fellows who joined the Reds fell into +the “Spider’s” web, and were most of them eased +of their spare cash through the agency of a pack of cards.</p> +<p>This “Spider” was one day on deck sitting by the +side of one of my friends who had just awaked from a doze, to +whom he said, “You have had a nap?” +“Yes,” I said, “Mr. — takes his nap on +deck in the face of day, but you have yours in the dimness of the +smoke-room” (alluding to the game of +“Nap”). “That’s true,” said +he, “I like to play when the light <a +name="page235"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 235</span>is somewhat +dull. These fellows say I am always winning. Well, +suppose I am? They keep coming to me, and in Melbourne if +they consult an expert on any subject they have to pay two +guineas, and I take no less.” “You take no +less, and don’t refuse more,” said I. +“Exactly, that is just it,” said the Spider, and he +was said to have cleared out most of the card-playing +fraternity. Ultimately, the almost unvaried success of the +Spider caused a general feeling to be raised against him amongst +the gamblers; but as long as there still remained some who had +not been relieved of their money, and others whom the Spider had +allowed to win from him occasionally, this feeling did not exist +to any great extent. One evening, however, the Pirate +charged the web-spinner with having cheated him, and a general +disturbance ensued, the Pirate assuring the Spider that as soon +as they quitted the ship he would soundly thrash him with a whip, +which he displayed, so we were in hopes of having a little +excitement on leaving the vessel. One result, however, was +to practically dissolve the Red Ribbon army, and the Carrib then +came out in a new character. At the fancy dress ball held +on the promenade deck he appeared in a dress suit, and was at +once saluted with the cry, “Here’s a lark, Cetewayo +disguised as a <i>gentleman</i>!”</p> +<p>The noble President of the Reds was somewhat of a curiosity in +his way, a very kind-hearted sympathetic man, as many a poor +invalid in the second and third classes could testify. The +doctor told us of many instances of his lordship’s kindness +in visiting some of the sick third-class passengers, and giving +them dainties from his private stores; and I heard one poor woman +<a name="page236"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 236</span>tell him +she should never forget him for his goodness to her +husband. Some of our colonial passengers, wishing to make +the most of their unusual proximity to nobility, were too +persevering in their attentions to his lordship, and evidently +bored him; but the tact with which he “shunted” them, +and the studied politeness of his language, did not prevent +onlookers detecting a silent “confound their +impudence” terminating each reply.</p> +<p style="text-align: center"> +<a href="images/p236.jpg"> +<img alt= +"Cetewayo Disguised as a Gentleman" +title= +"Cetewayo Disguised as a Gentleman" +src="images/p236.jpg" /> +</a></p> +<p>Once, in referring to the pertinacity of these people, he +remarked to a bystander, in a hissing tone, “One +<i>must</i> be civ-il.” The noble lord took a great +interest in everything pertaining to sailors; his regard for them +was evidently warm and genuine. While we were passing +through <a name="page237"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +237</span>the Canal, coming to our anchorage for the night, we +found the space at our disposal was very limited, as the vessels +were numerous, consequently our men had to be very active in +getting the ship into her berth. I was standing by his +lordship’s side, looking at the sailors running along the +sandbank, carrying the heavy cable as nimbly as though it was a +fishing line. Lord — was delighted, and, turning to +me, and in his funny fashion grasping his clothes in front of the +place where his stomach should be, exclaimed in tones of rapture, +“Look at our <i>de-ah</i> blue-jackets, look!”</p> +<p>His lordship was very popular with the young men on board, but +I hope he did not often make such observations to them, as one +young gentleman informed me he had made to him, speaking of his +past life. “I have committed many sins in my +time,” said his lordship, “and I hope to live to +commit many more.”</p> +<h2><a name="page238"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +238</span>CHAPTER XIII.</h2> +<p>Returning from Australia we touched at Colombo, where my +companion and a friend paid an interesting visit to Arabi, who +invited them to dine with him. It soon became evident that +intercourse would have to be conducted through interpreters, as +Arabi understood neither French nor English, and his visitors +were ignorant of Arabic.</p> +<p>My friend was an invalid, and the first dish put on the table +caused him great anxiety, as it was one which his medical man had +given him strict orders to avoid. What was to be +done? My companion explained to the invalid that in the +East no greater affront could be given to a host than to decline +to partake of what was offered, and so, not having provided +himself with Jack the Giant Killer’s device for disposing +of surplus food, he was fain to eat it, not without certain +fearful forebodings.</p> +<p><a name="page239"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +239</span>Arabi’s personal appearance had greatly altered, +he having grown a beard which was turning grey. At the +table with him were his two sons, lads apparently of ten and +twelve years respectively. On his left sat Fehmi Pasha, a +man of very striking appearance with a face indicating +considerable intellectual power. Arabi desired to know what +the English thought of him, a question which my companion parried +by saying the English always respected a brave man. Rising +to take leave of the host, my companion patted the head of the +eldest boy in a kindly manner. This seemed to move Arabi in +a singular way. He rose and said, in a sharp tone of +command, to his boys, “Salaam,” then, crossing the +room and placing his hand on my companion’s shoulder, said +with some emotion, “Ah, ah, good, good.”</p> +<p>Proceeding on our voyage we called at Aden, a dreadful place, +without a single redeeming feature, in European eyes. Those +of our countrymen who are compelled to reside here in the service +of the country are entitled to the deepest sympathy of every +Englishman. The possession of Aden is of considerable +importance to England and to India, both as a coaling station and +as a military post, although in the latter respect it is of less +importance than formerly. The islands commanding the +channels at the entrance to the Red Sea are after all the key to +the position, one of the most important being the Island of +Perim, the acquisition of which does more credit to the +<i>’cuteness</i> of the British commander at Aden than to +his sense of honour—that is, if the story told of him be +true. It is related that one evening, nearly forty years +ago, two <a name="page240"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +240</span>French war-ships cast anchor before Aden, and the +English governor with a laudable desire to ascertain the object +of their visit invited the commanders of the ships to +dinner. Unfortunately for France the officers were not +teetotallers, and the weather being hot and the British +commander’s wine strong, the gallant Frenchmen’s +tongues were loosened, and the perfidious Englishman ascertained +that the mission with which his guests were charged was no less +than the occupation of the Island of Perim in the name of Louis +Philippe, King of the French!</p> +<p style="text-align: center"> +<a href="images/p240.jpg"> +<img alt= +"Adenese Women" +title= +"Adenese Women" +src="images/p240.jpg" /> +</a></p> +<p>Without losing a moment the governor sent orders to the +captain of the English gunboat lying at Aden to proceed with all +speed and in the strictest secrecy to take possession of the +island in the name of the Queen! The sun had risen before +the festivities at the governor’s residence had ceased, and +then with many bows his guests departed to their ships, and +shortly afterwards left <a name="page241"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 241</span>Aden for their destination. On +arrival, their astonishment and mortification may be imagined +when they saw on the highest point on the island the British flag +flying, and the gunboat which they had seen at Aden on the +previous day anchored close inshore. The incident gave +occasion for much tall talk at the time on the part of the fiery +French colonels, and, not without reason, I fear, gave fresh life +to the cry of “Perfidious Albion.”</p> +<p>We arrived at Suez in the third week of February, and as soon +as our steamer stopped, our old dragoman Hassan came on board +with a huge packet of letters for us, and although he had only +seen us once before, three years ago, he not only remembered our +names but came straight to us and told us he had brought a boat +for our use, and that bedrooms were engaged for us at the +hotel. We owed all this attention—which was most +seasonable, as I was still suffering from the effects of a +malarious fever contracted in Australia—to Messrs. Cook and +Son, who had been advised of my coming, and here I will say that +in Egypt and Syria the name of “Cook” is the talisman +which solves all difficulties and robs travelling of nearly all +its inconveniences.</p> +<p>On landing we were forcibly struck with the altered demeanour +of the people since our previous visit. On that occasion +landing was effected under the greatest difficulties. The +people seemed to look upon us as fair prey. It was almost +impossible for us to keep our luggage together, and the insolent +threatening manner in which <i>backsheesh</i> was demanded was +not a little disturbing to those who were visiting an eastern +country for the first time. But now all was <a +name="page242"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 242</span>changed; +instead of idle excited crowds loitering everywhere, everyone +seemed to be engaged in some work, <i>backsheesh</i> was rarely +asked for, and always in subdued tones, and one refusal was +enough. Even the donkey boys had been reached, for when +their proffered services were declined they went away with a +“thank you.”</p> +<p>The Suez Hotel is kept by an Englishman, and he informed us +that during the war he left it in charge of natives, and found +everything safe and in order on his return.</p> +<p>On the following day we proceeded by railway to Cairo, +<i>viâ</i> Ismailia and Tel-el-Kebir. At many of the +stations British soldiers were on guard, a part of their duty +appearing to be the inspection of the natives’ baggage; +this was done amidst much good humour on both sides—indeed, +all through Egypt the British soldier seemed to be on the best +possible terms with the people, as indeed there is every reason +why he should be, for it is certain he has been the means of +saving the people of Egypt from a tyranny of the worst +kind—the tyranny of rapacious pachas, civil and +military. With the usual exclusiveness of our nation, our +party of four had arranged to have the whole of the compartment +of the railway-carriage to ourselves. It is true we paid +extra for the convenience, but at one of the stations, the train +being very crowded, two Frenchmen endeavoured to enter, being +prevented, however, by the Arab conductor. The Frenchmen, +with much gesticulation and great volubility, pointed out to the +Arab that there were only four persons in the carriage, whereas +it was constructed to take eight; the guard insisted that there +were eight persons <a name="page243"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +243</span>in the compartment, although it was patent to all that +there were only four. “Four!” said the +Frenchmen. “Eight!” returned the guard, giving +us a most wicked wink, which, however, failed to extort +<i>backsheesh</i>. Ultimately our would-be companions were +safely bestowed elsewhere.</p> +<p>The railway passes by the field of Tel-el-Kebir, the +entrenchments stretching as far as the eye can reach. When +my companion went over the ground a few weeks after the battle it +was covered with debris of every kind, clothing, arms, +ammunition, and other ghastly indications of a battle-field.</p> +<p>In one of the entrenchments my friend found a leaf torn from +the New Testament, while only a yard or two away was a leaf from +the Koran, and hard by he picked up a letter written in Arabic, +addressed to a soldier on the field, requesting him to authorise +the writer to collect his rents in Cairo.</p> +<p>On reaching the station of Tel-el-Kebir we found a number of +tourists who had come up from Cairo to gather curiosities from +the battle-field, but since my friend’s visit in the autumn +everything had been cleared off, and the new comers were +gathering pebbles (!) as mementoes of the famous engagement.</p> +<p>The little grave-yard in which the British troops are buried +is situated near to the station, and appeared to be kept in +excellent order.</p> +<p>In Cairo, as in Suez, the absence of the feverish excitement, +latent insolence, and spirit of unrest, so apparent during our +last visit, was very noticeable. There, too, +<i>backsheesh</i> was rarely demanded, and most of the people +seemed to have something to do.</p> +<p><a name="page244"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 244</span>It +was curious to see the English soldiers lounging about the town +in all directions. They seemed to be quite at home. +One of them informed me he had gone through the Transvaal +campaign, but very much preferred the land of Goshen!</p> +<p>While we were in Cairo we often expressed our wonder that the +city was ever free from cholera or some other deadly +epidemic. The sanitary condition of the streets and public +places was shocking in the extreme.</p> +<p>Fronting the Opera House and the great hotels and Government +offices are the extensive Ezbekiyeh public gardens, enclosed with +iron railings. Around the outside is a very handsome paved +footpath, which, although in the very heart of the city, is in +many places utterly impassable because of the unspeakable horrors +accumulated upon it. If the English occupation of Egypt +does nothing more than cause the towns of that country to be +properly cleansed, it will be the means of saving as many lives +every few years as were lost in the late campaign.</p> +<p>There are two classes of people who undoubtedly view the +British occupation of Egypt with great and well-founded +dislike—the military party and the pachas. These +classes have always played into each other’s hands, and +always at the expense of the down-trodden and patient +fellaheen—the backbone and mainstay of the country. +For the latter class the presence of the British army is an +almost unmixed blessing.</p> +<p>From time immemorial the desirability of connecting the +Mediterranean and Red Seas by a canal has been fully recognised; +but the work does not appear to have been attempted before the +reign of Pharaoh Necho, who <a name="page245"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 245</span>undertook to construct a canal +between the Nile and the Red Sea. In carrying out this work +120,000 Egyptians perished, and before it was completed the King +abandoned it, having been informed by the Oracle that the +foreigners alone would profit by the work. Eventually the +canal was completed under the rule of Darius the Persian, and of +the Ptolemies.</p> +<p>The canal was carried through the lakes Balah and Menzaleh, +another branch being constructed to the Bitter Lakes, into which +the fresh water canal—watering the land of +Goshen—emptied itself; but owing to the constant state of +war it fell into decay, and was abandoned.</p> +<p>Many suggestions as to the reopening of the waterway have been +made in almost every generation since. Bonaparte, during +his expedition to Egypt in 1798, even caused the preliminary +works to be undertaken. His chief engineer surveyed the +ground, but, owing to a serious miscalculation, threw great doubt +on the possibility of carrying out the work. He estimated +the level of the Red Sea to be nearly 33ft. higher than that of +the Mediterranean, an idea that Leibnitz ridiculed nearly a +century before. Vigorous protests against +Lepère’s theory were not wanting, but it was, +nevertheless, sufficient to cause the abandonment of the scheme +until Monsieur Lesseps directed his attention to the +matter. On his appointment as an Attaché to the +French Mission, Lesseps had to undergo a lengthy quarantine at +Alexandria; here he was supplied with books by his Consul, among +them being Lepère’s memoirs respecting the scheme +for connecting the two seas, the effect of which upon the young +Frenchman’s mind was never effaced.</p> +<p><a name="page246"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 246</span>In +1847 a Commission of Engineers demonstrated the inaccuracy of +Lepère’s observations, and proved that the level of +the two seas was practically the same. In 1854 Lesseps +having matured his plan laid it before the Viceroy, who +determined to carry it out. Palmerston, then premier, did +his utmost, from political motives, to thwart the enterprise; but +early in 1856 permission was given to commence the work.</p> +<p>Considerable difficulty was experienced in raising the +capital, but on the 25th April, 1858, operations were actually +begun. The Viceroy undertook to pay many of the current +expenses, and provided 25,000 workmen, who were to be paid and +fed by the Company at an inexpensive rate, and were to be +relieved every three months. In order to provide these men +with water 4,000 casks suitable for being carried on camels had +to be made, and 1,600 of these animals were daily employed in +bringing supplies, at a cost of £320 per day.</p> +<p>At the end of December, 1863, the Fresh Water Canal was +completed, by which the Company was relieved of the enormous +expense of supplying the workmen with water.</p> +<p>On the 18th March, 1869, the water of the Mediterranean was +allowed to flow into the nearly dry salt-incrusted basins of the +Bitter Lakes, some parts of which lay forty feet below the level +of the Mediterranean, while others required extensive dredging +operations. The Bitter Lakes have been identified with the +Marah of the Bible (Exodus xv., 23—“And when they +came to Marah, they could not drink of the waters of Marah for +they were bitter”). The captain of our vessel +informed <a name="page247"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +247</span>me that in these lakes the saltness, and consequently +the density, of the water is such as to cause the vessel to rise +five inches above the ordinary waterline.</p> +<p>The cost of constructing the Canal amounted to about +£19,000,000, more than a third of which was contributed by +the Khedive. The original capital of the company in 400,000 +shares amounted to £8,000,000, the difference being raised +by loans payable at fixed intervals, and adding an annual burden +to the scheme of £451,000. The festivities connected +with the opening of the Canal in 1869 cost the Khedive—that +is to say the taxpayer of Egypt—£14,200,000, or more +than half the total capital!</p> +<p>The great mercantile importance of the Canal is apparent from +the following data:—Between London and Bombay forty-four +per cent. of the distance is saved by through-going ships; +between London and Hong Kong twenty-eight per cent., and between +Marseilles and Bombay fifty-nine per cent. Over eighty per +cent. of the trade passing through the Canal is done in British +vessels, and in 1875—or six years after the Canal was +opened—the English traffic was equal to twelve times that +of the French.</p> +<p>In 1870, 486 steamers, representing 493,911 tons, passed +through the canal, and in 1882 these figures had risen to 3,198 +steamers with 7,125,000 tons. (<i>Baedeker</i>).</p> +<p>From Port Saïd the Canal runs in a nearly straight line +to Kantara (a mere group of sheds), its course lying across the +shallow lagoon-like Lake Menzaleh, which has an average depth of +only three feet. The embankments are low, irregular +sand-banks, formed of the dredged <a name="page248"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 248</span>material, and having at the margin +of the water a coarse growth of straggling sedgy-looking +vegetation. After passing Kantara, the Balah Lakes are +reached, and the course is marked out in their open surface by a +double line of buoys. Then the most difficult portion of +the original work is reached—viz., the cutting of El Guisr, +which is six miles long, the depth from ground-level to surface +of water being about forty-five feet. This is by far the +highest land in the Isthmus. Leaving the El Guisr cutting, +the open waters of Lake Timsah, (<i>Crocodile Lake</i>) are +reached, and far away across its blue mirror-like surface +stretches the double line of buoys, marking out the track. +On the northern shore of the lake, buried in a delightful mass of +vegetation, lies the French town of Ismailïa, once the great +centre from which operations during the construction of the Canal +were conducted, and now one of the principal stations whence its +navigation is controlled by means of telegraph. Lake Timsah +has an area of some six or seven square miles, and the huge fleet +of war vessels, transports, and tenders which Lord Wolseley used +as a base for his operations in the late campaign lay there +without difficulty. From Lake Timsah the Suez Canal holds a +roughly parallel course with the Freshwater Canal and the Suez +line of railway, and passes through a long cutting into the +Bitter Lakes, an extremely tame and uninteresting sheet of water +some fifteen miles long, with flat, low, sandy banks, and thence +into another long cutting—some twenty-six feet deep at +Shalouf—after which the flat sandy plains of Suez are +traversed, and the head of the gulf reached.</p> +<p><a name="page249"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 249</span>The +impression is general that the Suez Canal is cut through immense +deposits of sand, or sand and water, but this is quite +erroneous. The desert, it is true, is sandy and sterile, +but the sand is quite superficial, covering a gypseous clay, not +at all difficult to work in. From Balah to the Bitter Lakes +there is fine muddy sand, with clay at intervals, and at Serapeum +a rocky barrier. From the Bitter Lakes to Suez, however, +there is a good clay, with limestone at Shalouf. The +sinuosities in the Canal are such as to render the passage of +vessels over 400 feet long somewhat difficult. It was +expected that these curves would prevent the washing away of the +banks, but it is doubtful whether they have at all contributed to +the preservation of the sandy embankments. Indeed, most of +the predictions of the early destruction of the Canal by the +operation of natural causes have been proved to be as ill-founded +as such predictions generally are. The banks have no +ill-regulated propensity for crumbling away. The Canal is +<i>not</i> in perpetual and imminent danger of being +silted-up. The enormous and costly dredging operations that +were to swallow more than the revenue of the undertaking are +unknown, and the sole matter for regret is that the Canal was not +made as wide again as it is, for the accommodation of the vast +traffic it has created. Among the many confident prophesies +made by professional engineers of the day, one stands recorded in +the technical papers to the effect that every vessel must +necessarily be towed through the Canal, the explanation being +that the regulation speed of five miles per hour was not +sufficient to afford steering “way”; hence, said the +prophet, the slightest <a name="page250"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 250</span>wind across the line of the Canal +must infallibly blow ashore any vessel whose commander should +have the temerity to attempt to steam between the two seas. +Experience, however, has shown that the largest vessels are under +perfect command when propelled by their own engines.</p> +<p>It is impossible for anyone to pass through the Canal without +being impressed with the urgent necessity for vastly increased +accommodation for the constantly augmenting traffic. The +delays occasioned by the difficulties in coaling, the blocks in +the Canal—caused sometimes by the enormous traffic, and +sometimes by the sinking of a ship across the narrow +channel—are most vexatious. No less than five days +elapsed between the time of the arrival of our steamer at Port +Saïd and of its departure from Suez, a distance of less than +one hundred miles.</p> +<p>In every way it is most unfortunate for English commerce +that—thanks to the mulish obstinacy of Lord +Palmerston—the management of the Canal should have been +thrown into the hands of Frenchmen; for, while according the +highest meed of praise to M. de Lesseps for his genius, tenacity +of purpose, and energy, in designing and carrying out such a vast +undertaking in the teeth of obstacles which would have daunted +most men, it is impossible to ignore the fact that, as compared +with English traffic-managers, the French officials responsible +for the working of the Canal are vastly inferior in +capacity. The spirit of officialism as displayed by a +liberal use of red tape, and a certain non-elasticity in carrying +out the laws, so familiar to all travellers in France, exists in +an intensified <a name="page251"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +251</span>form in the local management of the Canal. To the +ordinary traveller through the Canal, for example, it seems +absurd that vessels should be stopped for the night while some +hours of light remain, yet as soon as the sun goes down no +further advance can be made. Again, although daylight comes +long before sunrise, it is forbidden to move till the sun is +up. Then again, experience shows that by the use of the +electric light the largest vessels can be handled with the utmost +ease. An electric light fixed in the foremast of a ship +sweeps the Canal from bank to bank, and for all practical +purposes gives a light equal to that of day; it seems strange, +therefore, that vessels possessing such appliances should not be +permitted to proceed during the night. If one ventures to +make such a suggestion to a Canal official, he at once replies +that the rules laid down for the regulation of the traffic forbid +night passages, and if one further ventures to remind him that +the said rules were made before the introduction of electric +lighting, he shrugs his shoulders and plainly intimates that you +have tried his patience long enough.</p> +<p>A little delegation of authority from the chief office to the +pilot or other Canal official on board the ships would at once +result in a vast diminution of delay, and consequently in an +increase to the capability of the Canal, but the genius of French +administration appears to be opposed to the granting of any +latitude or freedom of action to inferior officials, and so in +the administration of the Canal everything is done by the +official at the chief office in Ismailïa, who transmits his +orders by telegraph.</p> +<p><a name="page252"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 252</span>But, +after all the practicable improvements in the navigation of the +present Canal have been made, the necessity for a new one will be +no less urgent, and it is especially unfortunate that the +Conservative party should have made negotiations with M. de +Lesseps so difficult by openly suggesting that we should use our +accidental supremacy in Egypt to advance the national interests, +without regard to the rights possessed by him. Whatever the +actual status of M. de Lesseps, under his concession, may be, it +is clear that he has always considered he had a monopoly. +At the outset he endeavoured to enlist British sympathy and +capital in his undertaking by demonstrating that the bulk of the +traffic must necessarily come from English sources. Was it +probable, therefore, he would have spent the Company’s +capital in making the Canal if, after having demonstrated its +success, an English company were at liberty to make another, +alongside, and take away four-fifths of its traffic?</p> +<p>In business matters the French are proverbially +short-sighted. They fail to see that “three sixpences +are better than one shilling,” and are consequently +unwilling to surrender present advantages without an absolute +certainty of an early and great benefit arising from their doing +so. They are much more truly a nation of retailers or +shopkeepers than the English are, notwithstanding +Napoleon’s famous epithet. What is wanted is a +greater breadth of view in the administration of the Canal, and +it is in this respect that it is particularly unfortunate there +is not a larger English representation on the Board of +Management. If we had a representation equal to our share +of the capital, <a name="page253"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +253</span>the result would soon be apparent in the adoption of a +line of policy giving the utmost facilities to the Canal’s +customers, to the great advantage of both.</p> +<p>The recent discussions upon the Suez Canal question cannot +fail to be of the greatest use to the Government when they reopen +negotiations with M. de Lesseps, and if the latter finds it +impossible to make another canal without a further concession of +land, he may probably think it advisable to conciliate his +partner and chief customer by making greater concessions in +return for the influence of the British Government with that of +the Khedive and the Sultan on his behalf.</p> +<p>But even if no further advantages for British commerce be +obtained from the Canal Company, this country occupies a unique +position as regards communication with the East. In less +than fifteen years the whole of the original cost of the British +shares, both principal and interest, will have been paid out of +profits, and the Chancellor of the Exchequer of the day will have +to decide as to the destination of the revenue which the shares +produce. It appears to me that, after making provision for +the necessary expenses attending the administration of the +property, it would be both just and politic to return the balance +to the owners of the ships whose use of the Canal has been the +means of creating the revenue. If this course be adopted +British commerce will be immensely benefited, for our ships will +be able to use the Canal at a little more than half the expense +falling upon those of other nations, and this great advantage +will have been obtained without having cost the British taxpayer +a single penny. The money will simply be returned into <a +name="page254"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 254</span>the hands +which contributed it, and the proposal, therefore, does not in +any way partake of the character of a bounty.</p> +<p>What is known as the Dual Control was established in +1879. By it the British and French Controllers-General were +invested with considerable powers over the administration of the +finances, in addition to which the Khedive undertook to assign a +certain portion of the revenue for the discharge of the national +obligations.</p> +<p>In the following year a Law of Liquidation, as drawn up by the +Commissioners appointed for the purpose, was issued with the +agreement of all the interested European Powers.</p> +<p>In return for these concessions, the Foreign Bondholders made +a compromise with the Egyptian Government involving the surrender +of a considerable portion of their claims. This settlement, +while relieving the country from an enormous burden, placed it in +a position to meet its liabilities and to progress in the +development of its resources, and, in the language of Lord +Granville in his despatch to Lord Dufferin, “it was +undoubtedly working well for the material prosperity of the +country, and promised to do so for the future;” and in a +subsequent despatch the Foreign Secretary declared that, through +the action of the Control, great advantages had been secured for +the natives, such as “the spread of education, the +abolition of vexatious taxation, the establishment of the +land-tax on a regular and equitable basis, and the diminution of +forced labour.”</p> +<p>Our dragoman, an intelligent Copt, fully corroborated Lord +Granville’s statement. He said that all that <a +name="page255"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 255</span>the +Egyptian people required was moderate taxation, certainty as to +its amount and as to the time of its collection, and such a +military law as would relieve them from the press-gang. He +further said that before the institution of the Control, whenever +the Khedive wanted a new ironclad, or a new palace, or half a +dozen additional inmates for his harem, he ordered a new tax to +be levied; this tax was sold to some of the rapacious pachas +about the Palace, and resold by them to professional +tax-gatherers. These wretches committed the greatest +atrocities upon the miserable fellaheen, exacting the uttermost +farthing under the threat, and often the actual application, of +torture; “but now,” said my informant, +“although the taxes are heavy, their amount is known, and +they are collected in coin after the harvest has been +gathered.”</p> +<p>The country was becoming very prosperous, and there was a +surplus in the Treasury when, in February, 1881, a military riot +broke out, originating in the arrest of certain Egyptian +officers, among whom was the Colonel of the 1st Regiment. +The officers of this regiment broke into the Council Room of the +Ministry of War, ill-treated the Minister, and then, having +released the prisoners, proceeded to the Khedive’s Palace, +followed by the men of the regiment. In menacing tones they +demanded the dismissal of the Minister of War, and redress for +their grievances. Arabi Bey was one of the chief actors in +this revolt. The Khedive was compelled to submit, the +mutinous colonels were reinstated, and tranquillity was restored +for the time.</p> +<p><a name="page256"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 256</span>The +army officers were not long, however, in showing what their +principal object was, for in a few weeks after the revolt, +decrees were issued increasing the pay of the army and navy to +the extent of nearly £60,000 a year. The +Controllers-General had now become aware that everything was at +the disposal of the military party, and that the Minister could +not guarantee that the officers would not next day insist upon +fresh financial concessions. The next demand made by the +colonels was that nominations to vacant posts in regiments should +rest with them, and this was granted. The object of all +this was clear enough—indeed, Arabi declared at one of the +meetings of the Commission that “he would not yield +unconditional obedience to the War Minister.” As time +went on fresh symptoms of disaffection broke out, all indicating +the determination of the military party to throw off all control +and restraint. In September the Ministry was dismissed at +the instance of these same men, who throughout the remainder of +the year continued a harassing series of turbulent outbreaks, +gradually increasing in audacity, and more and more trenching +upon matters of administration. They went so far as to +demand an increase in the army, involving an annual addition to +the estimates of £280,000, although the Controllers +declared that not nearly half that amount was available.</p> +<p>The principal figure in all these outbreaks was Arabi, who +steadily kept himself at the head of the disaffected party, and +gradually increased his influence. After being appointed +Under Secretary of War, then Chief Secretary, he was described by +Sir E. Malet as having become “Arbiter of the destinies of +the <a name="page257"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +257</span>country.” In March he was made Pasha, and +the Khedive was compelled to assent to a number of promotions by +Arabi, who insisted on dispensing with the examination required +by law for officers. In a word, the real power had become +vested in the chiefs of the military party, and the objects of +those chiefs were showing themselves more and more evidently to +be, increase of the army, increase of pay and promotion of a +large number of officers to high military rank—the desire +of all such men in every country of the world.</p> +<p>In the following month Arabi caused numerous arrests to be +made among the officers and soldiery in consequence of an alleged +conspiracy to murder him. Among the prisoners was the +Minister of War, who had been dismissed at the demand of the +mutinous regiments in the previous February. The prisoners +were tried by a court-martial—irregularly +constituted—and the proceedings were kept secret, while no +counsel were allowed for the defence. It was generally +believed that torture had been used to extort confession. +Forty officers were condemned to exile for life to the farthest +limits of the Soudan. The Khedive, with great courage, +refused to sanction the sentence, and issued a decree commuting +it to simple banishment from Egypt.</p> +<p>In the meantime the excitement continued to increase, and the +Governments of France and England decided to send a naval force +to Alexandria for the protection of the interests of their +subjects in Egypt. The combined fleet arrived at Alexandria +on the 20th of May. On June 11th the great riot and +massacre of Europeans took place, Arabi in the meanwhile erecting +<a name="page258"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 258</span>new +earthworks and strengthening the forts, in spite of his repeated +assurances to the contrary. On July 11th, the French fleet +having withdrawn, and twenty-four hours’ notice having +expired, Admiral Seymour opened fire on the forts, and after a +few hours completely silenced them; not, however, without his +ships having suffered considerably in the encounter.</p> +<p>The above is a sketch of Arabi’s career from the time of +his first coming into public notice to the time when he became +Dictator. He was at no pains to conceal his character as a +military adventurer, and every successive step in his career +proves him to have been no other. It is true that during +the last few weeks he appeared to carry the country with him, +which, however, is not difficult to account for, seeing that he +was “master of the legions,” and that detachments of +the army had been sent out into the highways and byways to compel +men to come in at the point of the bayonet. In ordinary +times it is no uncommon thing to see a chain-gang going through +the streets of Egyptian towns composed, not of criminals, but of +unhappy wretches brought in by the press-gang for service in the +army, and should any of them falter in their steps through +weariness or despair, the heavy stick of the driver is always +ready to descend upon their shoulders. The only effect of +the success of the movement headed by Arabi would have been the +perpetuation and extension of this terrible state of things; and +yet this is the man who has been persistently held up to the +admiration of the world as a pure-minded patriot by a large +section of what is called the Peace Party in <a +name="page259"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +259</span>England. In the towns Arabi and his agents worked +upon the cupidity of the lower orders by telling them that he +intended to drive the foreigners into the sea, and that their +property should be given over to a general loot. In the +country districts, where the fellaheen are ground down under the +heel of the usurer—always a foreigner, as the Koran forbids +usury—Arabi promised to cancel the village debts, and +banish the usurers; <a name="citation259a"></a><a +href="#footnote259a" class="citation">[259a]</a> while in Upper +Egypt, where usury is less common, he appealed to Mohammedan +fanaticism. But nowhere did he appeal to a national +sentiment, <a name="citation259b"></a><a href="#footnote259b" +class="citation">[259b]</a> until, indeed, by various devices, he +had become absolute master of the country, when perhaps he +thought he might say <i>L’Etat, c’est moi</i>.</p> +<h2><a name="page260"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +260</span>CHAPTER XIV.</h2> +<p>A wretched journey of over eight hours by rail brought us to +Alexandria shortly before midnight. A fierce gale with rain +prevailed during most of the journey, and owing to the +dilapidated condition of the carriage, waterproofs were necessary +to protect us from the rain, which, in spite of closed windows, +found access to every part of the compartment. The line +itself and the whole of the rolling stock, were in a miserable +condition of disrepair, and utterly unfit for traffic.</p> +<p>The drive from the railway station to the Hotel Abbat gave us +our first glimpse of the ruin wrought by the rioters. The +raging storm and drenching sleet were singularly in accord with +the scene of desolation and misery on every hand. After the +long and cold railway journey, and the drive in the open vehicle +from the station, we were in hopes of finding comfortable +quarters in the hotel, but the wretchedness prevailing outside +seemed to have penetrated into every corner of <a +name="page261"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 261</span>the +establishment. It was impossible to get anything hot to +eat, and the cold meats were most uninviting. The +proprietor, expecting another train in about an hour, deferred +serving even this cold cheer until its arrival. Meanwhile +nothing remained for us but to try to warm ourselves by pacing up +and down the scantily-furnished <i>salle a manger</i>.</p> +<p style="text-align: center"> +<a href="images/p261.jpg"> +<img alt= +"A Familiar Face" +title= +"A Familiar Face" +src="images/p261.jpg" /> +</a></p> +<p>We were glad to get to bed notwithstanding that the carpets in +the bedrooms were flapping in the wind in the most vigorous +manner during the night.</p> +<p><a name="page262"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 262</span>On +rising next morning we found the storm had not abated, indeed it +continued with undiminished fury during the whole of our +stay. Our time, however, being limited, it was necessary to +disregard the weather in order to visit the scene of the recent +operations and the ruins of the city. On leaving the hotel +our dragoman of three years ago, Kalifa, at once recognised us, +and under his guidance we made a tour of the fortresses, going +first to Ras-el-Tin. We found the palace of that name, +which forms the landward boundary of the fortress, still +partially in ruins and apparently deserted. One could not +help feeling that the architect, in selecting such a site for a +royal residence, must have regarded the possibility of an attack +upon the fort from the sea as being too remote to be taken into +account. Some of the other forts had at one time stood +isolated from the town, but apparently it might be said of the +Alexandrians that</p> +<blockquote><p>“Exceeding peace had made them +bold,”</p> +</blockquote> +<p>for the approaches to the forts had gradually been built upon +until at length some of the houses were even erected against the +fortifications. These were the houses which were destroyed +during the bombardment, and the ruin of which gave rise to the +impression that the city itself had been shelled. All the +forts presented the same dismal aspect of ruin. Shattered +ramparts, battered casemates, huge holes in the walls of the +store-houses; the heavy Armstrong guns dismantled, some with the +muzzle pointed high up in the air, others lying on the ground; in +all cases the gun-carriages smashed and crushed into +shapelessness; burst shells, and heaps of stones and mortar lying +everywhere; great deep pits in <a name="page263"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 263</span>the ground, showing where an +“Inflexible” shell had burst. The buildings and +ramparts are of loosely-built stonework, hence wherever a shell +struck, it told with full and destructive effect. Here and +there one could see that a single shell had penetrated a rampart, +scattered the earth, upheaved a heavy Armstrong, and enveloped a +casemate in a heap of demolished masonry. In Fort Aïda +an explosion, which wrecked the whole place, occurred early in +the action. In the whole of the forts there were Armstrong +guns of great calibre and of modern date. Their appearance +after the bombardment was most extraordinary: pieces knocked out +of the muzzles, huge slabs sheared out of their sides, and in +many cases the coils pitted with shot marks. In most +places, and at Fort Meks in particular, the muzzles were burst, +but this was the work of the landing parties shortly after the +action. There can be no question that the armament of these +forts was of a very formidable character, and that the condition +of the fleet after the encounter might have been a very serious +one had the guns throughout been well handled.</p> +<p>After leaving the Forts we went with a friend, long resident +in Alexandria, to Ramleh, the fashionable suburb of the +city. The word Ramleh means “sand,” and that +being so it may be said that no place was ever more appropriately +named. It is a mere sand waste by the shore, and its villas +are separated by sand wastes. The effect is somewhat +Australian, and the use of verandahs and Venetian shutters helps +the suggestion. Our friend’s house was close to what +is known as Gun Hill, that is, where the 40-pounders were, and +from his Egyptian roof he could see Arabi’s advanced +position <a name="page264"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +264</span>and the whole of the British camp. At 4 p.m. +every day it was the custom to go and see the practice from Gun +Hill. Mr. A.’s house was open during the whole time, +and he told us it was for the most part more like a picnic than a +campaign. The officers, however, were frequently called +from his billiard table by an alarm from the camp, and on such +occasions Mr. A. had an understanding with them that should the +English be driven in they were to warn him when retreating past +his house by firing a volley through his windows! There +were of course times of great anxiety notwithstanding the +excitement and interest.</p> +<p>Mr. A. was in Alexandria during the massacre, and at the time +of the bombardment he was only away two days, being the first to +return to his house and live in it. While there, many of +the neighbouring houses were looted. His description of the +daily shooting of looters reminded one of the accounts of the +latter days of the Paris Commune. Mr. A.’s garden is +ornamented with heavy English shells, which, he tells his +visitors, fell there—from a cart!</p> +<p>During the afternoon we had a stroll through the European +quarter of the city, and were amazed at the destruction to be +seen on every hand. The rows of fine houses, the shops, the +buildings of the Grand Square, the Place Mohammed Ali, with its +gardens, all a mass of unsightly ruins, from which workmen were +getting out the stones and stacking them up in long rows on the +footways. We had been pretty familiar with Alexandria, but +in the maze of ruined stonework we were completely at a loss and +could not find our way. Kalifa, however, came to our +assistance, and <a name="page265"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +265</span>guided by him we took a drive through the native +quarter, and soon perceived that, though the destruction by +incendiarism was unfortunately greatest in the European quarter, +the <i>petroleurs</i> had not spared their fellows, for many +native houses were burned. The extent to which property was +destroyed is incredible. There must be several miles of +streets in the sheerest ruin. The poor shopkeepers of the +Place Mohammed Ali now occupy temporary wooden shanties, and the +general aspect of this once gay and opulent quarter is wretched +in the extreme.</p> +<p>We next day paid a visit to Fort Meks, but except that its +armament was somewhat heavier than that of its fellows, there +were no new features to be seen. The same desolate +appearance of ruin and destruction—crippled gun-carriages, +burst guns, crumbling ramparts, and shell-ploughed ground. +This fort, from the accuracy of its gun practice, was the most +troublesome to the fleet. The five terrible +“Armstrongs,” however, lay burst and useless in the +sand drifts, with the rude and forgotten graves of the poor +gunners round about them.</p> +<p>A flood of misplaced eloquence has been expended in denouncing +the conduct of the British Government for having “bombarded +and utterly destroyed a defenceless commercial city,” and +the statement has been repeated so often as to be believed by +many; but I will venture to say that no one will for one moment +believe it who has had the opportunity, as I have, of being +conducted over the city and the fortifications by an intelligent +gentleman, an old resident, who was present during the whole of +the operations, and who <a name="page266"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 266</span>emphatically denies that the +bombardment of the forts caused any greater damage than I have +described. The charge has come mainly from the advocates of +peace; but it is a misfortune that such a sacred cause should be +damaged by gross exaggerations, and by statements which it is +impossible to sustain. The cause of peace, like the +temperance cause, has suffered greatly by this habit of +exaggeration.</p> +<p>At the <i>table d’hote</i> I sat by an English officer +who had been in the thick of the fight at Kassassin, and who had +escaped unhurt; he did not seem inclined to say much about his +experiences on that terrible day, but he entertained a great +respect for the fighting capacity of the Egyptian soldier when +properly led.</p> +<p>During the whole of our stay in Alexandria the weather +continued to be extremely boisterous and very cold, and we were +glad to get on board the P. and O. steamer for Brindisi. +Some Anglo-Indians joined the vessel here, and we had an +opportunity of observing the way in which some of our countrymen +treat native races.</p> +<p>A crowd of Arabs in boats were alongside, offering their wares +to the passengers as they stepped up the side of the ship. +Amongst the rest there was a man with his little daughter +offering raw eggs, beads, shells, etc. Two of the +Anglo-Indians having bought a dozen of the eggs, and having +stationed themselves in a convenient position on deck, proceeded +to pelt the poor trader, completely spoiling his stock, and +covering him and his child with the contents of the +missiles. During the voyage these fellows also behaved in a +brutal manner towards the native stewards on board. <a +name="page267"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 267</span>It is not +to be wondered at that men like these object to judicial powers +over Europeans being extended to natives, for it is probable that +under the operation of the Ilbert Bill they would stand a fair +chance of getting what they do not want—viz., +justice. It is not difficult to imagine how such men would +act towards the natives if they were a thousand miles away from a +court having jurisdiction in cases of violence on the part of +Europeans against natives.</p> +<p>Stay-at-home folks in England usually think of the +Mediterranean as being calm as a lake, bathed in sunlight, and +blue as the famous grotto in the Island of Capri; but such has +not been my experience on the three occasions upon which I have +traversed its length.</p> +<p>Once, however, as we were leaving Alexandria, a very beautiful +phenomenon presented itself. The waters of the harbour were +of a dead pale sea-green while outside the bar the Mediterranean +was of an intense, opalescent, turquoise-blue, so exquisitely +beautiful that the attention of the whole ship’s company +was directed upon it. We presently crossed the bar and +dipped right into this extraordinary colour. The line of +demarcation was clear and sharp, and lay just outside the +harbour.</p> +<p>On reaching the open sea we encountered a furious gale, which +continued with varying intensity until our arrival off Brindisi +four days afterwards—twenty-four hours after time. +The sea, which had been running high during the whole voyage, +made a clean breach of the bridge on the last evening, +necessitating the bringing of the vessel’s head to the wind +and “lying-to” for the night.</p> +<p><a name="page268"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 268</span>On +arrival off the entrance to the harbour no pilot was forthcoming, +and it began to be whispered that we should not be permitted to +land without undergoing quarantine; but happily our fears proved +to be groundless, and the captain having run up a signal +informing the port authorities of his intention to go in without +a pilot, we were soon alongside, and on European soil once +again.</p> +<p style="text-align: center"> +<a href="images/p268.jpg"> +<img alt= +"After the Battle: Up-Ended Guns" +title= +"After the Battle: Up-Ended Guns" +src="images/p268.jpg" /> +</a></p> +<div class="gapspace"> </div> +<p style="text-align: center">THE END.</p> +<h2><a name="page269"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +269</span>INDEX.</h2> +<table> +<tr> +<td><p>Albatross, The</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page27">27</a></span> @115}</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>America (<i>see also</i> United States)</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page135">135</a></span>–<span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page178">178</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>America—Journey across from San Francisco</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page147">147</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Albany</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page164">164</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> — Schools at</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page165">165</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Alkali Plains, The</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page155">155</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> American Language</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page165">165</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> André, Major</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page167">167</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Appetising Mottoes and Sentiments</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page160">160</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Arnold, General</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page167">167</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Bill of Fare, A Curious</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page160">160</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Blue Gum, The (<i>illus</i>)</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page148">148</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Brigham Young’s Dominions</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page155">155</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Bright, John</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page151">151</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Boats</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page165">165</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Bogus Ticket Sellers, Beware of</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page157">157</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Buildings, Block of, Removed Bodily</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page161">161</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Bull Frogs</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page149">149</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Buttes, The</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page158">158</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Cañons</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page152">152</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page157">157</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Cape Horn</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page152">152</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Catskill Mountains</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page165">165</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Chicago</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page160">160</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page161">161</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> — Fires in</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page161">161</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> — Streets in, Equal to Best in +London</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page161">161</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> — Timber Houses still Numerous</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page161">161</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> — Water Supply for</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page161">161</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Churches, Opposition</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page167">167</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Corinné</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page155">155</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Corn over Ten Feet High</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page147">147</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> — without Manure</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page147">147</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Country like a Park</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page147">147</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Cow-Catcher, The</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page154">154</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Crash, A Tremendous</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page152">152</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Descent of 8,000 feet</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page159">159</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Detroit</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page162">162</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Devil’s Slide, The +(<i>illus</i>)</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page159">159</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Dining Car, A Well-appointed</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page160">160</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Dollar will Go a Long Way</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page168">168</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Elevation, Greatest Attained</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page152">152</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> English Gold Refused</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page157">157</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Eschscholtzias growing wild</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page147">147</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> <a name="page270"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 270</span>Eucalyptus, The (<i>illus</i>)</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page148">148</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Falls River</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page164">164</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Fields Hundreds of Acres in extent</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page147">147</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Fires in Chicago</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page161">161</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Flowers, Immense patches of</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page147">147</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Free Country</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page169">169</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Gold-Diggings reworked by Chinese</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page149">149</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> — Track through</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page148">148</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Gum Tree, The (<i>illus</i>)</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page148">148</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Hotel, The Grand Pacific, Chicago</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page162">162</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Hudson River</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page165">165</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page167">167</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Identification a Difficult Task</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page161">161</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> I guess I’ll take your Gold</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page157">157</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Indians, Dreadful looking</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page149">149</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> — on the War-Path</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page152">152</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> John Scales, Justice of the Peace +(<i>illus</i>)</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page168">168</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Justice, A Dealer in</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page168">168</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Lake Ontario</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page164">164</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Language, American</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page164">164</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Life on the Road, A New Feature of</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page161">161</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Lupins growing wild</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page147">147</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Marigolds, Patches of</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page147">147</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Military Academy, West Point</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page167">167</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Mineral Wealth, Untold</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page148">148</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Money-Lender complains</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page148">148</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Monument Rock (<i>illus</i>)</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page158">158</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Mormon Advice</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page154">154</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> — Tabernacle Visited</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page157">157</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> — Wives lack Cordiality</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page156">156</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Narrow Escape</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page151">151</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Night Attack on Indians</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page153">153</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Ogden</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page156">156</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page157">157</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Omaha</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page160">160</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Pacific Railroad, A Single Track</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page151">151</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Pallisades, The, Hudson River +(<i>illus</i>)</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page166">166</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Passport Found Useful</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page161">161</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Pine Forests</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page149">149</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Poultry Secured by the Leg</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page169">169</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Pullman Train, Life on Board</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page149">149</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Railway Covered with Sheds</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page152">152</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> — on Trestles</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page157">157</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> — Open to Prairie</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page154">154</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> — Ride, a splendid one</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page177">177</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Red Sandstone Rocks</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page158">158</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Ride, A Long (Omaha to Chicago)</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page160">160</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Rip van Winkle</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page165">165</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> River Boats</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page165">165</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> — Hudson</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page165">165</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page167">167</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Rome</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page164">164</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Sacramento Valley</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page147">147</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> <a name="page271"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 271</span>Saints, Cruel Treatment by the</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page153">153</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Salt Lake City Beautifully Situated</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page156">156</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> — (<i>illus</i>)</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page155">155</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Sambo said “No Sah!”</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page159">159</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Schools, National, at Albany</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page165">165</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Snow Mountains</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page149">149</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> — Travelling through</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page157">157</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Soil Twenty Feet Deep</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page147">147</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Steamers on the Rivers</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page165">165</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Streets in Chicago Equal to Best in +London</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page161">161</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Sulphur Spring</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page157">157</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Syracuse</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page164">164</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Taurus Meets the Train</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page154">154</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Tennyson Claimed as an American +Author</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page165">165</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Timber Houses still Numerous in +Chicago</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page161">161</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Train, The Last Over</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page152">152</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> — The, Met by Taurus</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page154">154</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Trapper’s Story, The</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page153">153</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Turning Point between East and West</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page152">152</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Utica</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page164">164</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Water Supply for Chicago</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page161">161</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> West Point, on the Hudson</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page167">167</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Witches, The</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page158">158</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>American Grievance</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page128">128</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>— Passengers from Honolulu</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page127">127</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Americans not good Sailors</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page127">127</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Ascension, Island of (<i>illus</i>)</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page17">17</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Auckland</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page115">115</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Avoca (<i>illus</i>)</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page67">67</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Woolgrowers</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page67">67</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Australian Colonies (<i>see also</i> Melbourne, Sydney, +Victoria, Tasmania, New South Wales)</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page101">101</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Agricultural Labour, A Fine Field +for</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page111">111</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Artisans, Skilled</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page110">110</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Australia, People of, Described</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page112">112</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> — Young</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page111">111</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Climate Exhausting</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page110">110</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> <i>Ornithorhynchus paradoxus</i> +(<i>illus</i>)</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page112">112</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Drought, A Ten Months’</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page113">113</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Education Amply Provided for</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page111">111</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Emigrate, Who should</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page110">110</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Free Trade</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page101">101</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Labour Market, State of</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page101">101</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> — Unskilled, A Fine Field for</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page111">111</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Mining Machinery, Perfection of</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page107">107</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Platypus, The Duck-billed +(<i>illus</i>)</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page112">112</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Population</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page120">120</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> — Surplus, Great Field for</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page110">110</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Postal Arrangements</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page111">111</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Protection</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page101">101</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> <a name="page272"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 272</span>Railways</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page111">111</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Rent of Houses Enormously Dear</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page110">110</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Schools, First-rate</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page111">111</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Telegraphs</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page111">111</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Wages Higher, but Most Things Dearer, +than in England</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page110">110</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Baby Hippopotamus at Play (<i>illus</i>)</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page21">21</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Ballarat</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page48">48</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Botanical Gardens</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page49">49</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Gold Mine</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page48">48</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> — (<i>illus</i>)</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page49">49</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> — Smallness of</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page49">49</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Gold Raised</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page49">49</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Lake Wendouree</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page49">49</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Bananas</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page127">127</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Bay of Biscay</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page5">5</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Betting on Board Ship</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page26">26</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Boat in a Squall off Plymouth</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page2">2</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Brandy or Whisky?</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page131">131</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Brummagem Shams, where manufactured</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page13">13</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Burial at Sea</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page131">131</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Burying the Dead Horse (<i>illus</i>)</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page21">21</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Campbell Town</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page74">74</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Our Waiter at (<i>illus</i>)</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page79">79</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Canada</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page162">162</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> American Customs Officer’s +Equipment</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page164">164</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Clifton House, Niagara</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page162">162</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Desecration, Ruthless</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page163">163</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Green Fields like those at Home</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page162">162</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Great Western Railway</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page162">162</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> London</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page162">162</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Niagara, Impressions of</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page164">164</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Paris</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page162">162</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Photographers</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page163">163</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Salary, Must Raise, I Guess</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page164">164</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Suspension Bridge at Niagara, +Crossing</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page164">164</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Centipedes, A Plague of</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page127">127</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Chair, Taking the</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page129">129</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Coral Reefs</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page116">116</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page118">118</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Day Dropped</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page119">119</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Day Gained</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page119">119</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Duel, Rumours of</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page121">121</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Educated in Four Colleges</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page130">130</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Egypt</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page181">181</a></span>–<span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page268">268</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Abaid</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page197">197</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Abbaseyeh Palace</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page216">216</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Abbas Pasha</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page216">216</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Abraham or Isaac, Old Fellow like</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page191">191</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Aden, a Dreadful Place</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page239">239</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> — Importance of</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page239">239</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> <a name="page273"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 273</span>Adenese Women (<i>illus</i>)</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page240">240</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Agricultural Operations</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page223">223</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Agriculture à la Adam</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page188">188</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Alexandria</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page260">260</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> — in Ruins</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page264">264</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> — not Bombarded</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page265">265</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> — the Forts after Bombardment</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page262">262</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Anglo-Indians</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page266">266</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Apis Mausoleum, The</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page203">203</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Arab, A Discerning</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page232">232</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> — An, Hanged</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page228">228</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> — School in Syria</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page211">211</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Arabi, Appointed Under Secretary of +War</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page256">256</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> — at Colombo</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page238">238</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> — Bey</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page255">255</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> — Causes Numerous Arrests</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page257">257</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> — Erects New Earth-works</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page258">258</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> — How he Recruited his Army</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page258">258</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> — Made Pasha</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page257">257</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> — Military Adventurer</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page258">258</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> — Moved in a singular way</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page239">239</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> — Principal Figure in +Outbreaks</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page256">256</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> — Visit to</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page238">238</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Arabi’s Personal Appearance</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page239">239</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Arabs, Bedouin</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page183">183</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> — How Kept in Order</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page181">181</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> — Picturesque Party of</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page181">181</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Au Revoir (<i>illus</i>)</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page225">225</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Backsheesh</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page185">185</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page190">190</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page195">195</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page197">197</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page198">198</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page207">207</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page210">210</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page218">218</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page224">224</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page228">228</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page241">241</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page243">243</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> — not demanded</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page210">210</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Balah, Lake of</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page245">245</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page248">248</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Bazaars, In the</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page190">190</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Bedrashên</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page201">201</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Beggars</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page195">195</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Bellows, not made in Birmingham</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page191">191</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Bery cheap, sah! (<i>illus</i>)</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page191">191</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Bethshemish (Heliopolis)</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page220">220</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Biblical Allusions, How to +Understand</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page185">185</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Biograph, A Graphic</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page206">206</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Bitter Lakes, The, Identified with +Marah</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page246">246</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> — Saltness of</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page247">247</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Black Guard, A</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page242">242</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Blacking a Boy’s Bare Feet</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page186">186</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Blue Jackets, Look at our +<i>de-ah</i></p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page237">237</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Blue Ribbon Army</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page233">233</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Boat or Dahabieh</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page215">215</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Boats, How Propelled</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page181">181</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Bohemiennes</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page228">228</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Bonaparte, Attempts to Reopen Suez +Canal</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page245">245</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> <a name="page274"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 274</span>Bond-holders, Foreign</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page254">254</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Bridal Party, A</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page192">192</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Brindisi</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page267">267</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> British Canal Shares Profitable</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page253">253</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> — Mission, Schools at</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page211">211</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Bûlak, A Street in +(<i>illus</i>)</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page219">219</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> — Suburb of Cairo</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page220">220</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Bull, The Sacred</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page203">203</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Burying-ground</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page202">202</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Cairo</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page187">187</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page188">188</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page242">242</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> — Sanitary Condition of, +Shocking</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page244">244</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> — Trades of</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page188">188</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> — Visit to, by Train</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page184">184</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Camelcade, A (<i>illus</i>)</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page208">208</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Camelcades</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page207">207</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Camels, Strings of</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page207">207</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Carriages, Ladies’</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page212">212</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Casinos</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page228">228</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Cemetery, An Ancient</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page202">202</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Cetewayo, <i>alias</i> The Carrib</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page229">229</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page234">234</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> — Disguised as a Gentleman +(<i>illus</i>)</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page235">235</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page236">236</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Cheops, Great Pyramid of</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page197">197</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Children, Naked</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page208">208</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Christian, I am a</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page218">218</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Citadel, The</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page194">194</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> City, A great</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page202">202</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Civ-il, One must be</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page236">236</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Colombo</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page238">238</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Colonels, The, Make further Demands</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page256">256</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Concert, A Pleasant, Looked Forward +to</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page228">228</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Cook and Son</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page241">241</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> — Name of, a Talisman</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page241">241</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Coptic Guide offered a Commission</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page190">190</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Coral Necklaces</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page227">227</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Cotter, Lieutenant</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page229">229</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Court Martial, Irregular</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page257">257</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Crocodile</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page206">206</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> — A dead</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page216">216</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> — Lake</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page248">248</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Crowd, A Motley</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page181">181</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Custom-house Examination</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page182">182</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> — occupied by English +Artillerymen</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page227">227</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page229">229</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Dahabieh or Nile boat</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page215">215</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Dancers and Howlers</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page210">210</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Dervishes, The, Dancing and Howling</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page209">209</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> — The, Supported by Government +Endowment</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page210">210</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Desert, Prayers in the +(<i>illus</i>)</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page209">209</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Devils, Familiar</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page195">195</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Donkey Boy, An Egyptian +(<i>illus</i>)</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page184">184</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> — My Donkey, good sah</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page184">184</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> <a name="page275"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 275</span>Donkey Ride</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page183">183</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> — across the Nile</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page215">215</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Donkeys for Nine</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page183">183</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> — Homeward Bound</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page216">216</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> — Names of</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page183">183</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> — Universal Use of</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page214">214</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Dragoman (<i>illus</i>)</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page182">182</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Drive to Heliopolis</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page216">216</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Dual Control, The</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page254">254</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Dutch Hotel occupied by Royal +Marines</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page228">228</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Egg-hatching Establishment</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page194">194</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Eggs, she only steals the Eggs now</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page212">212</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Egypt, British Occupation of, how +Beneficial</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page244">244</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> — by whom Disliked</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page244">244</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Egyptian Character, Saddest Side of</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page220">220</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> — People, Requirements of</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page255">255</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Electric Light, The,</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page231">231</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> El Guisr, The Cutting of</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page248">248</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Embroidery</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page190">190</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> End, The (<i>illus</i>)</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page268">268</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Englishman perfidious</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page240">240</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> English Representation on Board of +Management of Suez Canal not large enough</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page252">252</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Ethiopia shall yet Stretch Forth her +Hand</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page185">185</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> European Buildings, Few</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page183">183</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Exclusiveness, British</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page242">242</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Excursion, A delightful</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page208">208</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Ezbekiyeh Public Gardens</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page244">244</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Face, A Familiar (<i>illus</i>)</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page261">261</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Fair-day, A</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page222">222</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Fakir, A Holy (<i>illus</i>)</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page220">220</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page222">222</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Fehmi Pasha</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page239">239</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Fellaheen, The, ground down</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page259">259</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Fort Aïda</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page263">263</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> — Meks</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page263">263</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page265">265</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> — Gemileh</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page229">229</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> French, A Nation of Retailers</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page252">252</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> — Fleet, The, Withdraws</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page258">258</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> — The, outwitted</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page240">240</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Fresh-water Canal completed</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page246">246</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Friday, the Mohammedan Sabbath</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page209">209</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Gamblers on Board Ship</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page235">235</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Gentlemen of the Long Robe</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page227">227</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Gizeh, Pyramids of</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page195">195</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> — Station</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page201">201</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Goshen, Land of</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page244">244</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> — Land of, preferred</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page244">244</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Governor, A ’cute</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page239">239</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Graphic Biograph, A</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page206">206</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Graveyard at Tel-el-Kebir</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page243">243</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> <a name="page276"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 276</span>Greek Money-changer</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page226">226</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Gun Hill</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page263">263</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Hassan</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page182">182</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page184">184</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page241">241</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> — Sultan</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page192">192</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> — Disguised as a Pilgrim</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page192">192</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> — How he Recovered his Throne</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page194">194</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Heliopolis (Bethshemish)</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page220">220</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> — Drive to</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page216">216</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Hens, Laziness of</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page194">194</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Hippopotamus</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page206">206</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Homes, Everlasting</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page207">207</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Home to Vote</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page225">225</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Hostelries</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page207">207</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Hotel Abbat</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page260">260</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Howlers and Dancers</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page210">210</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Insects something Maddening</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page230">230</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Irrigation</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page223">223</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> — Method of, Described</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page188">188</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Ismailïa</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page186">186</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page248">248</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Jewellers</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page191">191</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> — Weighing for</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page191">191</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Joseph and Mary’s Tree</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page218">218</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Kantara</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page247">247</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Khalifs, The Tombs of the +(<i>illus</i>)</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page218">218</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Khedive’s Gardens, The</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page215">215</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Khedive, The</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page208">208</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page212">212</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> — The, Compelled to submit</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page255">255</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Koran, The, in Competition with +Threepenny Pieces</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page189">189</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Labour, Forced, a Painful Sight</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page187">187</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Lady, The Last Unmarried</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page230">230</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Lake Menzaleh</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page230">230</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page247">247</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> — Timsah</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page248">248</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Lakes, The Bitter</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page245">245</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page249">249</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Law of Liquidation</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page254">254</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Lepère’s Theory</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page245">245</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> — Proved Incorrect</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page245">245</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Lesseps, M., Detained at Alexandria</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page245">245</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> — Matures his Theory</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page246">246</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> L’etat, c’est moi</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page259">259</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Leviathan, Job’s Reference to</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page207">207</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Lucullus</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page259">259</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Lily, Painting the</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page186">186</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Luggage, A Lady’s</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page184">184</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> — How Treated</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page181">181</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Mameluke Dynasty, The Last of</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page218">218</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Mamelukes, Massacre of</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page194">194</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Manufacturing Quarter</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page191">191</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Mariette exhumes the Serapeum</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page203">203</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Marines</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page229">229</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> — as Police</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page230">230</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> <a name="page277"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 277</span>Mausoleum, The Apis</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page203">203</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Mecca Pilgrims, Rendezvous of</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page216">216</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Mediterranean, The</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page267">267</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> — Waters of, Flow into Bitter +Lakes</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page246">246</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page248">248</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Member, Once a, always a Member</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page234">234</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Memphis</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page202">202</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> — Ancient, Site of</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page201">201</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> — Little more than a Name</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page202">202</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Menzaleh, Lake of</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page245">245</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Military Riot</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page255">255</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Mitrahineh (site of Ancient Memphis)</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page201">201</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Mohammed Ali, Mosque of</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page194">194</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Money-Changers’ Liberality</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page227">227</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Monument, Most Ancient in the World</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page202">202</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Mosque of Sultan Hassan, Visit to</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page194">194</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> — The, of Sultan Hassan +(<i>illus</i>)</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page193">193</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Mother, Son thrashes her only once a +month</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page212">212</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Mud, Great Difficulty in Making +Canal</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page230">230</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Museum, The National, for Egyptian +Antiquities</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page222">222</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Mutinous Conduct</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page256">256</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Naval Force sent by France and +England</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page257">257</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> — Arrival at Alexandria</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page257">257</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Nap on Deck</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page234">234</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Necropolis, Ancient</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page202">202</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Nile-boat, A</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page216">216</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Nile, The</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page187">187</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> — Valley of</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page188">188</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> — View on the (<i>illus</i>)</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page198">198</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Nobleman, The Languishing</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page184">184</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Noph (Memphis)</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page202">202</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Nubians Reported to be Excellent +Soldiers</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page229">229</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Obelisk, The Oldest in Egypt</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page218">218</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Octroi, or Town Tax</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page216">216</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> On (Heliopolis)</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page220">220</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Orgies, Pious</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page210">210</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Orient, The Steamship (<i>illus</i>)</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page186">186</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> — a Magnificent Steamship</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page181">181</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Orphans, Venerable</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page224">224</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Palmerston, Lord, thwarts Lesseps</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page246">246</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Palms, Oranges, and Lemons</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page218">218</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Patriarchal Group, A</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page197">197</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Pebbles as Mementoes of Tel-el-Kebir</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page243">243</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Peep, A (<i>illus</i>)</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page190">190</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Penny, New, Refused</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page185">185</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> People, Vast Numbers with Nothing to +do</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page185">185</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Perim, Island of, how acquired</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page239">239</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Pious Orgies</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page210">210</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Police, The, Armed with Long Spikes</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page216">216</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Port Saïd</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page230">230</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page247">247</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> — a Dreadful Place to Live in</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page230">230</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> <a name="page278"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 278</span>— Harbour</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page231">231</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> — Lighthouse</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page231">231</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> — Railway wanted to</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page232">232</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Power vested in Military Party</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page257">257</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Prayers in the Desert (<i>illus</i>)</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page209">209</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Predictions, Ill-founded</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page249">249</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> President, The, of Red Ribbon Army</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page235">235</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Pyramid, Ascending the Great +(<i>illus</i>)</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page196">196</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> — The great Step</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page202">202</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> — The Oldest</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page202">202</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Pyramids, Road to</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page187">187</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> — The</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page216">216</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> — The, First View of</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page187">187</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Quarantine</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page268">268</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Ramleh</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page263">263</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Ramses II, Statue of</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page202">202</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Ras-el-Tin</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page261">261</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Red Tape</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page250">250</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> — Ribbon Army</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page233">233</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Rendezvous of Mecca Pilgrims</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page216">216</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Revoir, Au (<i>illus</i>)</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page225">225</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Riot and Massacre of Europeans</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page257">257</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Rotten Row of Cairo, The</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page212">212</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Runners or Saïs, The +(<i>illus</i>)</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page212">212</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page212">212</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Sabbath, the Mohammedan</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page209">209</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Safes, obviously of English +Manufacture</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page191">191</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Saïs, The</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page212">212</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Sacred Bull, Burying-place of</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page203">203</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Sakkara, To</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page201">201</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Sand, A good Preservative</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page205">205</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Sarcophagus, A huge</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page203">203</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> School, An Arab, in Syria</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page211">211</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> — Interrupted</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page189">189</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Schoolmaster’s, A, +Disappointment</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page211">211</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Schoolmaster, The, Abroad +(<i>illus</i>)</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page189">189</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> — The, asks for Backsheesh</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page190">190</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Schools, Miss Whateley’s</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page211">211</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Sculpture, Life-like</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page222">222</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Selim, Sultan</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page218">218</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Serapeum, The (<i>illus</i>)</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page203">203</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page204">204</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Seymour, Admiral, Opens Fire on +Forts</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page258">258</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Shalouf</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page248">248</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Shave, A, and a Wash (<i>illus</i>)</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page199">199</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page199">199</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Ship of the Desert, A Wrecked</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page223">223</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Shoeblacks</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page186">186</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Shops Tiny</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page182">182</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Shubra Avenue, In (<i>illus</i>)</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page214">214</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> — The</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page212">212</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Simon Stylites</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page220">220</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Soldier, British, in Egypt</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page242">242</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> <a name="page279"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 279</span>Soldiers, English, quite at home</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page244">244</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> — glad to have Newspapers</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page230">230</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Sphinx, The</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page216">216</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> — The (<i>illus</i>)</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page199">199</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Spider, The</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page233">233</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page234">234</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page235">235</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Spider’s Web, The</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page234">234</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Statue, A, Four Thousand Years old</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page222">222</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Stick, The Heaven-sent</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page198">198</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Story-teller, A</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page222">222</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Storytellers, Professional, at Cairo</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page188">188</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Strabo, on the Serapeum</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page203">203</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Street in Bûlak (<i>illus</i>)</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page219">219</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Streets of Suez Narrow</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page182">182</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Suez</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page241">241</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page248">248</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> — Arrive off</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page181">181</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Suez Canal, A new Canal wanted</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page252">252</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> — British Traffic through</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page247">247</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> — Cost of Constructing</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page247">247</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> — Does not silt up</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page249">249</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> — Embankments of</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page247">247</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> — Erroneous Impressions</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page249">249</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> — Festivities on Opening</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page247">247</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> — First Undertaken by Pharaoh +Necho</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page244">244</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> — French Officials inferior in +capacity</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page250">250</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> — French short-sighted in Business +Matters</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page252">252</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> — In the (<i>illus</i>)</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page226">226</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> — Lesseps’ Monopoly</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page252">252</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> — Lesseps, M. de</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page250">250</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> — Mercantile Importance of</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page247">247</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> — Necessity of increased +accommodation</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page250">250</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> — Operations begun</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page246">246</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> — Palmerston, Lord, Obstinacy +of</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page250">250</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> — Restrictions Absurd</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page251">251</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> — Ships not allowed to move after +Sun-down</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page251">251</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> — Sinuosities of</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page249">249</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> — Steamers under perfect +control</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page250">250</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> — Suggestion, A</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page253">253</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> — How to deal with Profit</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page253">253</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> — The</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page244">244</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Suez Hotel</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page182">182</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page242">242</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> — Streets of, Narrow</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page182">182</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Sultan, Selim</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page218">218</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Tel-el-Kebir</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page242">242</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page243">243</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Temple, Underground</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page201">201</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Tih, The Tomb of</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page205">205</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Timsah, Lake, Lord Wolseley’s base +of operations</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page248">248</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Tomb of Tih (<i>illus</i>)</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page205">205</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page206">206</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Tombs of the Khalifs (<i>illus</i>)</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page218">218</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Torture, A Novel Instrument of</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page220">220</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Town Tax, The, or the Octroi</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page216">216</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> <a name="page280"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 280</span>Treasures, Buried</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page201">201</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Tree, The Virgin’s</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page218">218</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Umbrellas, A New Use for</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page181">181</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Villages, Dreadful Mud</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page207">207</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Virgin’s Tree, The</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page218">218</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Wash, A, and a Shave (<i>illus</i>)</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page199">199</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page201">201</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Wash Basin, An Impromptu</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page229">229</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Washing Hands, A Primitive Mode of</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page199">199</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Water-carriers (<i>illus</i>)</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page215">215</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Weigher for the Trade</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page192">192</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Whateley’s, Miss, Schools</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page211">211</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> What lack ye?</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page226">226</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Wild Fowl Shooting, Good</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page230">230</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Words which Broke no Bones</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page182">182</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Zagazig</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page187">187</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Equator, Heat at</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page24">24</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Faces too Dark to be Seen</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page122">122</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Falmouth</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page63">63</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Beach and Sands</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page71">71</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Burial-place (<i>illus</i>)</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page70">70</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Cockney Sportsman</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page71">71</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Der Dichter Spricht</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page65">65</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Epping Forest</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page67">67</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Hotel (<i>illus</i>)</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page69">69</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Land of Snakes</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page64">64</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Magpies</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page63">63</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> River Esk</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page64">64</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Stoney Creek</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page64">64</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Fernshaw</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page53">53</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Hard Fare</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page53">53</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Pioneering</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page53">53</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Fiji Children ask for More</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page117">117</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> — Islands</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page116">116</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> — Native of (<i>illus</i>)</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page117">117</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Fingal</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page67">67</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Fire Brigade Practice</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page119">119</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Flying Fish</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page27">27</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Free Trade</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page99">99</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Gambling on Board Ship</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page26">26</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Golden Gate, The</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page131">131</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Gum Trees, A Forest of</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page51">51</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>— (<i>illus</i>)</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page52">52</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page53">53</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Habits of Islanders acquired</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page128">128</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Healesville</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page51">51</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> A Soafler</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page51">51</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Hotel Accommodation</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page51">51</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page56">56</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Remedy, a Sovereign</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page58">58</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Hobart Town</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page77">77</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Fern Tree Valley</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page78">78</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Harvest in February</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page78">78</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> <a name="page281"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 281</span>Jericho to Jerusalem, via Bagdad</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page78">78</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> New Norfolk</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page78">78</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Homeward Bound</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page127">127</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Honolulu, Arrival at</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page122">122</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Baby Sold for a Dollar</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page126">126</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Breakfast ordered Overnight</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page122">122</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Brownie, Quite a</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page125">125</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Chairs or Seats usually absent</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page126">126</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Children described</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page124">124</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Country very Poor</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page125">125</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Dragon-flies, numerous</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page124">124</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Dressmaking not a difficult Art</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page124">124</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Faces too Dark to be Seen</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page122">122</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Fire-flies</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page122">122</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Flowers of the most brilliant +colours</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page124">124</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Grass green and beautiful</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page124">124</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Hawaiian Islands, King of, Landlord of Hotel</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page123">123</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Healthiness of</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page127">127</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Heathen Chinee, his Tricks not in +Vain</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page123">123</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Hotel</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page122">122</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Houses made chiefly of Rushes</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page126">126</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Islanders <i>en fète</i></p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page121">121</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Letters, Glad to be Rid of</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page125">125</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Library</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page125">125</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Museum</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page125">125</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Natives Dressed in Splendid Colours</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page124">124</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Parliament House</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page125">125</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Passenger Overboard</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page121">121</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Perfume of Tropical Flowers</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page122">122</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Pilots Decline to go out for Vessels</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page121">121</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Race fast dying out</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page125">125</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Ruth, the King’s Sister +(<i>illus</i>)</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page127">127</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Servants gone Home</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page122">122</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Squatting on Ground Prevailing +Custom</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page126">126</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Supper not to be had</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page122">122</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Temperature of</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page127">127</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Vegetation of</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page124">124</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Village, Native</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page126">126</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Villas Pretty and Numerous</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page126">126</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Waiters Celestial</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page123">123</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Water, Thoughts when Under</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page121">121</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Women’s Clothing, Scanty</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page124">124</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Women Stately Looking</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page124">124</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Honolulu, Hotel at</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page122">122</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Horse, Burying the Dead (<i>illus</i>)</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page21">21</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Hotel Experiences</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page67">67</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>I guess the seat is dry now</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page129">129</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Irish Bulls, where manufactured</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page13">13</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Islanders <i>en fète</i></p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page121">121</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Jefferson Brick, Junior</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page129">129</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p><a name="page282"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +282</span>Jerra Jerra</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page96">96</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Kandavu</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page115">115</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Knife Trick, The</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page130">130</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Life on Board Ship (see Ship—Life on Board)</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page3">3</a></span>–<span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page39">39</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Lyre Bird, The (<i>illus</i>)</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page59">59</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Launceston</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page61">61</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Bees in Mourning</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page62">62</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Cicadas</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page61">61</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Cora Linn</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page63">63</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Pomona’s Temple</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page62">62</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Snakes</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page61">61</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Tamar River</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page61">61</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Tasmanian Hospitality</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page62">62</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Tonsorial Palace</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page62">62</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Tree Locusts</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page61">61</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Marysville</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page56">56</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Stephenson Falls</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page56">56</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Meal, a good square one preferred on Shore</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page121">121</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Melbourne (<i>see also</i> Victoria)</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page39">39</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Berry Ministry, the</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page43">43</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Black Death at</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page40">40</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Black Spur Mountains</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page50">50</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> — (<i>illus</i>)</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page56">56</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Building Trade at, Depressed, +Results</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page102">102</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Bush, The</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page50">50</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Description of</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page41">41</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Education</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page42">42</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Exhibition at, why decided on</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page102">102</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Happy Land</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page46">46</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Hobson’s Bay</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page39">39</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page80">80</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Hot Winds</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page47">47</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Natural History Museum</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page42">42</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Old Debts, a New Way to Pay</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page45">45</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Overland from Sydney</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page94">94</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page100">100</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Parliamentary Procedure</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page43">43</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Parliament, Houses of</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page45">45</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> — Payment of Members of</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page44">44</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Protection</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page102">102</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Revisited</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page79">79</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Roads</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page50">50</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Sanitary Arrangements, Defective</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page47">47</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Stage Coaches</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page50">50</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Streets wide and long</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page103">103</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Tall and Fat a street sweeper</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page48">48</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Tramways opposed by Cabmen</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page103">103</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Vineyards</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page50">50</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Yarra Yarra River</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page60">60</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Mister</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page130">130</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Moighty Dry</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page130">130</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Native Dish called Poi</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page128">128</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p><a name="page283"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +283</span>New South Wales (see also Sydney)</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page107">107</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Acres Many, Men Few</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page107">107</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Agricultural Machinery, Imported</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page108">108</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Artisans Attracted from Victoria</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page109">109</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Customs Revenue, Increase of</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page110">110</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Employment Abundant</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page107">107</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Exports, Increase of</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page110">110</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Free Trade Colony</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page107">107</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Hudson Bros, Limited</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page108">108</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Immigration Larger than in Victoria</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page109">109</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Imports, Increase of</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page110">110</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Imports in 1782 and 1881</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page109">109</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Industry, A Native, Created</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page108">108</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Labour, Increasing Demand for</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page109">109</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Machinery, Agricultural and Mining, +Imports of</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page108">108</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> — Mining, Demand for</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page107">107</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Manufacturing Concern, Largest in +Colony</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page108">108</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Men Few, Acres Many</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page107">107</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Mining Machinery, Imports of</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page108">108</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> — Machinery, Perfection of</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page107">107</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Policy Opposite to that of Victoria</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page107">107</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Population Attracted</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page109">109</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> — Constantly Increasing</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page107">107</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> — Increase of, in Ten Years</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page110">110</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> — Room for More</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page109">109</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Prosperity, Evidences of</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page107">107</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Railway System, Vast and Expanding</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page107">107</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Sawmills, Steam, at Sydney</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page108">108</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Shipping</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page107">107</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> — Development of</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page109">109</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> — During last Thirty Years</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page109">109</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> — Repairing Yards Removed from +Victoria</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page109">109</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Timber, Native Better than Imported</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page108">108</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Trade, Import and Export</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page107">107</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Victoria Contrasted with</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page107">107</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Oatlands</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page78">78</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> The Gaol</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page79">79</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Pacific Ocean belies its Name</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page115">115</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Parson, The, Quite at Sea</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page16">16</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> A Man of Peace now</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page30">30</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Colonists’ complain of</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page32">32</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Congregation, Secures a</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page16">16</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Drain Pipes, how they are made</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page30">30</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Mixes his Degrees</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page31">31</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Sermon on Geology</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page16">16</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Water Pumped from a Mine Twelve Miles +Deep</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page16">16</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Passenger, Death of</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page130">130</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> — falls Overboard</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page121">121</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Personal Difficulties</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page120">120</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> — Favour, As a</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page131">131</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Pilots Decline to go out for Vessels</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page121">121</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p><a name="page284"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +284</span>Protection</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page39">39</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page100">100</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Salt Water good for the “Spin-ial Orgins”</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page7">7</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>San Francisco</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page131">131</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Baggage Master</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page147">147</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Business Activity</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page138">138</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> — Men, Sharp</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page140">140</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Carriages, Hackney</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page144">144</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Character, Bad Better than None</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page139">139</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Chinaman, Am claimed as a</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page144">144</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Chinese Close Shavers</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page141">141</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Chinese Pigtails (<i>illus</i>)</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page142">142</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> — Joss Houses Visited</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page143">143</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> — Quarter Full of Interest</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page141">141</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> — Numerous</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page140">140</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> — Quarter Explored at Night</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page143">143</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> — Theatre Visited</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page143">143</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> — Washer<i>men</i></p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page137">137</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> — Wedding</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page143">143</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Civilisation and Barbarism Face to +Face</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page137">137</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Climate Delightful</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page145">145</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Correspondent, A Familiar</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page138">138</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Darwin would have been Delighted</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page142">142</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Dodge, A Favourite</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page139">139</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Earning a Cent anyhow</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page132">132</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> English Fittings</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page137">137</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Entrance to Harbour Sighted</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page131">131</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Fire Brigades</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page144">144</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Flats and Sharps</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page139">139</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Golden Gate, The</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page131">131</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Governor, Qualifications for a State</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page140">140</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Habit, The National</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page138">138</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Hackney Carriages</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page144">144</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Heat and Dust Terrible</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page147">147</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> I Guess you are Going to England</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page140">140</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Jarrett, A. J. C.</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page138">138</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> John Chinaman</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page141">141</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Knife and Fork, only One at Meals</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page138">138</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Lady Doctors Numerous</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page140">140</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Luggage, Arrangements for, Excellent</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page147">147</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Min-ne, Little</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page141">141</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Mister, Last of (<i>illus</i>)</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page146">146</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> My Wife is Dead</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page138">138</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Pacific Seal</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page145">145</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Palace Hotel</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page135">135</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page137">137</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Police, Messenger from Chief of</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page139">139</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Sea-lions</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page145">145</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Seal Rocks (<i>illus</i>)</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page145">145</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Starching, a Fine Art</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page137">137</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Streets, Handsome</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page138">138</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Tang-y, A Chinese City</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page144">144</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Tang-ye, Proof of Celestial Origin</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page144">144</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> <a name="page285"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 285</span>Temperature</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page145">145</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Tobacco Chewing and its Consequences</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page138">138</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Tramways</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page144">144</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Volunteers</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page144">144</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Yosemite Valley</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page146">146</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>San Francisco, Voyage to</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page113">113</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page132">132</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Sharks</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page18">18</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page30">30</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> — don’t like Dark Skins</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page118">118</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Ship-Life on board</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page3">3</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Albatross</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page27">27</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Bay of Biscay, Nor’-wester in</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page6">6</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Bazaar</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page34">34</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Betting</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page26">26</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page38">38</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Blatant Beast, The, fires a Revolver</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page25">25</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Burying the Dead Horse</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page21">21</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Cabin’d, Cribb’d, +Confin’d</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page3">3</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Cape Otway</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page38">38</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Captain not so fond of Progress as the +Passengers</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page12">12</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Captains, why they are Tories</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page13">13</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Cat Chase</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page26">26</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Collisions at Sea</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page29">29</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Colonial Statesman beaten but not +vanquished</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page39">39</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Concerts and Recitations</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page9">9</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Congregation, How to Secure a</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page16">16</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Consumptive Patients sent too late</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page5">5</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Cross-signalling</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page35">35</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Danite Band, The</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page33">33</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Death and Burial at Sea</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page15">15</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Dolphins</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page27">27</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Dolphin, the “Classic” +(<i>illus</i>)</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page28">28</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Dramatic Performance</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page35">35</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Exhibition, Fine Art</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page35">35</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Fellow-passengers</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page4">4</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> First Night on Board</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page3">3</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Flying Fish</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page27">27</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Gale off Cape Leeuwin</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page38">38</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Genial Captain (<i>illus</i>) +advantageous</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page11">11</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> German Lady, old but lively</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page19">19</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Hobson’s Bay</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page39">39</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Illness of Passengers</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page14">14</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Incident in Cornwall recalled</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page24">24</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Ixion goes mad</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page14">14</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Letters Home</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page29">29</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Life Friendships formed</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page4">4</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Love your Enemies</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page17">17</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Melbourne, Arrive at</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page39">39</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Music not always harmonious</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page10">10</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Night-walkers a nuisance</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page9">9</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Nor’-wester in the Bay of +Biscay</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page6">6</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Parson Mixes his Degrees</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page31">31</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> <a name="page286"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 286</span>Pilot Fish</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page28">28</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Passengers paying their Footing</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page30">30</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> — divided into Sets</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page3">3</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Peal of Hand-bells</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page16">16</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Portuguese Man-of-War</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page28">28</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Private Convict System</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page4">4</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Quoits a selfish Game</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page9">9</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Rolling Forties</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page38">38</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Scarlet Lady</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page20">20</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Sea-sickness, Cure for</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page6">6</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Sermon on Geology</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page16">16</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Sharks</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page18">18</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page30">30</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Ship in full Sail</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page29">29</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Short and Stout</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page25">25</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Soup too Salt</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page19">19</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Sports (<i>illus</i>)</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page8">8</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Spurgeon’s Evangelist</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page32">32</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Squall near Madeira</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page12">12</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Steward’s Life a hard one</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page7">7</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Tall and Fat</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page25">25</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Tristan d’Acunha</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page38">38</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Tropical Heat</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page8">8</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page24">24</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Tropical Phosphorescence</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page33">33</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Newspaper</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page10">10</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Water Pumped from Twelve Miles Deep</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page16">16</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Wild Spirits carry on</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page25">25</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Whale</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page30">30</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Ship’s Doctors</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page120">120</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Snakes</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page61">61</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page64">64</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page68">68</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page72">72</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page73">73</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page74">74</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page97">97</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Spurgeon’s Evangelist</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page32">32</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Steward, A Negro</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page115">115</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>St Mary’s (<i>illus</i>)</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page68">68</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Supper, Too late for</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page123">123</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Sunday at the Fiji Islands</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page116">116</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Sydney (<i>see also</i> New South Wales)</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page80">80</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Ants</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page90">90</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Bail-up</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page89">89</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Bathurst</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page89">89</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Blue Mountains</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page84">84</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Botanical Gardens</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page82">82</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Bullock Team on Blue Mountains +(<i>illus</i>)</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page94">94</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Bush Hut (<i>illus</i>)</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page95">95</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Bushrangers</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page89">89</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Cottage, Mount Victoria +(<i>illus</i>)</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page86">86</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Education Act, The, Amended</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page92">92</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Excise Act</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page92">92</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Falls, The Weatherboard +(<i>illus</i>)</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page87">87</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Great Goat Sucker, The</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page90">90</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Harbour (<i>illus</i>)</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page80">80</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Hartley Vale, Descent to +(<i>illus</i>)</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page88">88</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> <a name="page287"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 287</span>Harvest on New Year’s Day</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page95">95</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Hotels, Primitive</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page84">84</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Laughing Jackass, The (<i>illus</i>)</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page90">90</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Lithgow</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page88">88</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Manufacturing Concern, Largest in +Colony</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page107">107</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Oysters</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page83">83</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> — on Trees</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page84">84</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Political Situation</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page92">92</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Saw Mills, Steam</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page108">108</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Sheep Runs</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page95">95</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Southerly Buster, A</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page83">83</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Sydney to Melbourne Overland</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page94">94</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page100">100</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Albury</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page98">98</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Ants</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page96">96</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Axles, Imported</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page108">108</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Bush, The</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page96">96</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Carriage Furniture, Imported</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page108">108</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Drought of Ten Months’ +duration</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page113">113</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Endurance of Post-horses</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page98">98</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Euroa</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page100">100</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Free Trade at</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page108">108</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Germanton</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page96">96</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Hay, Price of</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page113">113</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Hudson Brothers (Limited)</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page108">108</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Industry, A Native, Created</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page108">108</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Jerra Jerra</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page96">96</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Kelly’s Exploits at Euroa</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page100">100</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Magpies, Large</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page96">96</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Railway Rolling Stock Manufacturers</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page108">108</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Rain, Downpour of</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page114">114</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> River Murray</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page99">99</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Royal Mail</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page96">96</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Sheep, Loss of</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page114">114</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Shipping during last thirty years</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page109">109</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Sighing for Old England</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page97">97</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Snakes</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page97">97</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Springs, Imported</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page108">108</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Timber, Native Better than Imported</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page108">108</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Tommy, a youthful Driver</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page98">98</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Town, An Up-country (<i>illus</i>)</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page98">98</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Vineyards</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page99">99</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Wagga Wagga</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page95">95</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page96">96</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Wheels, Imported</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page108">108</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Wodonga</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page99">99</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Sydney to San Francisco</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page113">113</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page132">132</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Tasmania</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page75">75</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Farms large in size</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page75">75</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Good Roads</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page75">75</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Hawkers</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page76">76</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Mount Wellington (<i>illus</i>)</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page76">76</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> <a name="page288"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 288</span>River Derwent</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page75">75</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> The Rabbit and the Thistle</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page75">75</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Teneriffe (<i>illus</i>)</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page7">7</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Travelling by Rail and Ship compared</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page1">1</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Tree Ferns</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page52">52</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page56">56</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Tristan d’Acunha, Island of</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page36">36</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Tropical Heat</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page8">8</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page24">24</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> — Phosphorescence</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page33">33</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Tropics, In the (<i>illus</i>)</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page40">40</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Turtles</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page18">18</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>United States</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page169">169</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Americans would Become our +Competitors</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page176">176</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Artisans (American) not Better Off than +British</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page176">176</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> — Wages and Holidays</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page174">174</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Baggage Arrangements Convenient</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page171">171</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> — Described</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page171">171</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Books Dear</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page170">170</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Cabmen Disgusted</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page171">171</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Cadgers, In England such Men would be +Called</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page176">176</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Calicoes Consigned to England</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page173">173</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Charges Simply Monstrous</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page170">170</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Children without Shoes and Stockings</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page177">177</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Climate more Trying than that of +England</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page174">174</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> — of America Exhausting</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page176">176</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Competition Become Exceedingly +Fierce</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page175">175</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Considerably Sold</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page178">178</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Corruption among Officials</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page169">169</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Cotton Mill Operatives from Germany, +etc.</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page175">175</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Dear America</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page170">170</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Dinner, Charge for a Plain</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page170">170</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Engine, The Largest, in the World</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page172">172</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Exhibition, The Centennial, +Philadelphia</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page169">169</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page171">171</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Exports Limited by Protection</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page175">175</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Factory Operatives’ Wages Lower +than in Lancashire</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page174">174</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Fair Trade Agitation</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page174">174</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Fortunes, Colossal, Built up under +Protection</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page176">176</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Freedom for Tongue and Foot</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page177">177</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Free Trade and Wages</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page174">174</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> — not an Unmixed Blessing</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page176">176</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> — under, Wider Distribution of +Material Comfort</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page176">176</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Holidays Fewer than in England</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page174">174</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Hours of Labour Longer than in +England</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page176">176</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> — Longer than in Lancashire</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page174">174</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Improvements (so-called) in +Manufactures</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page172">172</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Labour, Honest, Avoided</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page176">176</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Liquor Traffic Presents Many +Difficulties</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page177">177</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Living, Cost of, Higher than in +England</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page174">174</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Loafers Numerous</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page176">176</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> <a name="page289"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 289</span>Negro Labour does not Flood the +Markets</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page177">177</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Newspaper Inferior and Dear</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page170">170</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> New York</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page169">169</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Officials, Corruption among</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page169">169</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Over-production</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page173">173</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Philadelphia</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page171">171</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Protection, An Argument for</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page173">173</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> — and Wages</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page174">174</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> — Doomed</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page175">175</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> — Wages Steadily Declining +under</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page176">176</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Railway Charges Moderate</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page171">171</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Rich, but Honest</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page169">169</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Slave Experiences</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page177">177</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Something Hot</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page178">178</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Steamboat Charges Moderate</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page171">171</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Sunday Traffic Perplexing</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page177">177</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Teetotal Lecture, A Regular</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page178">178</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Temperance Lecture, The First, they had +Heard</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page178">178</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Tools, Inferior</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page172">172</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Wages Higher, but Balanced by Extra Cost +of Living</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page176">176</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> — Higher, not a Full +Equivalent</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page176">176</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> — Lower than in 1860</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page174">174</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> — Steadily Declining under +Protection</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page176">176</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> — with Free Trade and +Protection</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page174">174</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Victoria (<i>see also</i> Melbourne)</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page101">101</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Agricultural Industries not +Protected</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page105">105</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> — Heavily Taxed</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page105">105</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Artisans Attracted to New South +Wales</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page109">109</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Books, Can Produce Her Own</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page104">104</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Cabby Overrides the Tramway</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page103">103</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Country Districts Sparsely Populated</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page101">101</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Customs, Revenue, Stationary</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page110">110</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Depression of Building Trade at +Melbourne</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page102">102</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Dog Subsisting on His Own Tail</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page102">102</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Duty on Imports Demanded</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page103">103</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Exhibition at Melbourne why Decided +on</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page102">102</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Exports, Increase of</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page110">110</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Fiscal Policy, Vicious</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page105">105</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Food, Taxation of, not Permitted</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page105">105</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Free Trade—the <i>Argus</i></p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page104">104</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> — for Raw Materials</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page103">103</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Government, Quite Right to Cheat the</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page106">106</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Immigration, Grants in Aid of</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page105">105</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Imported Manufactures Heavily Taxed</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page101">101</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Imports, Increase of</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page110">110</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Laws, Evasion of, by Protectionists</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page106">106</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Locomotives Costly</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page104">104</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> — Required</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page104">104</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Manufacturer’s Profit not quite +enough</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page104">104</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> <a name="page290"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 290</span>Manufacturers Require Larger +Field</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page105">105</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Minerals, Home Demand for, Small</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page105">105</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> — Mainly Exported</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page105">105</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Mining Industries not Protected</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page105">105</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> — Machinery Heavily Taxed</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page105">105</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Native Industry, In Interests of</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page104">104</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Natural Resources Neglected</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page102">102</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> New South Wales, Contrasted with</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page107">107</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Population Concentrated in Large +Towns</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page101">101</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> — Increase of, in Ten Years</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page110">110</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> — (Manufacturing) Growing Faster +than its Customers</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page102">102</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> — not Retained</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page101">101</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> — Larger, a Great Want</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page105">105</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> — Room for Larger</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page105">105</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Prices sufficiently High</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page104">104</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Printed Books should be more Heavily +Taxed</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page104">104</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Printing Materials, Suggestion to +Tax</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page104">104</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Protected Industries for a Limited +Time</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page103">103</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> — Manufacturers not Happy</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page106">106</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Protection Demanded by Manufacturers</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page102">102</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> — Effect on Money</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page106">106</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> — in its most Pronounced Form</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page101">101</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Protectionist Newspapers</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page103">103</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Railway Stores</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page105">105</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Shipping—Repairing Yards Removed +to New South Wales</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page109">109</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Tramways Opposed by Cabmen</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page103">103</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Tariff Revision Committee</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page103">103</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Working Classes Jealous of +Competition</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page105">105</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Work, Legislature Expected to Supply</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page102">102</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p> Workpeople very Independent</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page107">107</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Voyage, Author’s First, to Australia</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page5">5</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Waterspout</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page119">119</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Water, Thoughts when Under</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page121">121</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>White Squall, The</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page35">35</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Yankee Journalist described</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page129">129</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Yankee’s Inquiry</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page128">128</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +</table> +<h2>NOTES.</h2> +<p><a name="footnote226"></a><a href="#citation226" +class="footnote">[226]</a> In a former chapter I gave an +account of a voyage to Australia by way of the Cape of Good +Hope. On a subsequent visit to the Colonies I went by the +Canal route, returning through Egypt overland.</p> +<p><a name="footnote259a"></a><a href="#citation259a" +class="footnote">[259a]</a> It is understood that the +Khedive’s English financial adviser is about to take in +hand the case of the Fellaheen versus the Usurers. It may +aid him to know how a similar state of things in a neighbouring +country was dealt with about 2000 years ago.</p> +<blockquote><p>“Lucullus, Roman general, in his wars +against Mithridates, having occupied many cities in Asia which +had long been a prey to tax-farmers and usurers, undertook to +relieve the people from the extreme misery to which they had been +reduced, and set about redeeming the properties given as security +to the rapacious money-lenders. He first greatly reduced +the rate of interest; secondly, where the interest exceeded the +principal he struck it off. He then ordered that the +creditor should receive the fourth part of the debtor’s +income, but if in making his claim any creditor had added the +interest to the principal, it was utterly disallowed. By +these means, in the, space of four years, all debts were paid, +and the lands returned to the rightful +owners.”—<i>Plutarch’s Lives</i>.</p> +</blockquote> +<p><a name="footnote259b"></a><a href="#citation259b" +class="footnote">[259b]</a> Report of Mr. Villiers Stuart, +M.P., to Lord Dufferin on “The Social and Economical +Condition of the People.”</p> +<p>***END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK REMINISCENCES OF TRAVEL IN +AUSTRALIA, AMERICA, AND EGYPT***</p> +<pre> + + +***** This file should be named 41639-h.htm or 41639-h.zip****** + + +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: +http://www.gutenberg.org/dirs/4/1/6/3/41639 + + + +Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions +will be renamed. + +Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no +one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation +(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without +permission and without paying copyright royalties. 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