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diff --git a/41632-h/41632-h.htm b/41632-h/41632-h.htm index 2f382ee..c1985a9 100644 --- a/41632-h/41632-h.htm +++ b/41632-h/41632-h.htm @@ -2,7 +2,7 @@ "http://www.w3.org/TR/xhtml1/DTD/xhtml1-strict.dtd"> <html xmlns="http://www.w3.org/1999/xhtml"> <head> -<meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html; charset=ISO-8859-1" /> +<meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html; charset=UTF-8" /> <title>The Project Gutenberg eBook of The Art of Entertaining, by M. E. W. Sherwood</title> <style type="text/css"> @@ -173,25 +173,9 @@ table { </style> </head> <body> +<div>*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 41632 ***</div> <h1 class="pg">The Project Gutenberg eBook, The Art of Entertaining, by M. E. W. Sherwood</h1> -<p>This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with -almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or -re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included -with this eBook or online at <a -href="http://www.gutenberg.org">www.gutenberg.org</a></p> -<p>Title: The Art of Entertaining</p> -<p>Author: M. E. W. Sherwood</p> -<p>Release Date: December 15, 2012 [eBook #41632]</p> -<p>Language: English</p> -<p>Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1</p> -<p>***START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE ART OF ENTERTAINING***</p> <p> </p> -<h4 class="center">E-text prepared by Melissa McDaniel<br /> - and the Online Distributed Proofreading Team<br /> - (<a href="http://www.pgdp.net">http://www.pgdp.net</a>)<br /> - from page images generously made available by<br /> - Internet Archive<br /> - (<a href="http://archive.org">http://archive.org</a>)</h4> <p> </p> <table border="0" style="background-color: #ccccff;margin: 0 auto;" cellpadding="10"> <tr> @@ -223,7 +207,7 @@ href="http://www.gutenberg.org">www.gutenberg.org</a></p> <p class="center p4">BY<br /> <br /> -<span class="b13">M. E. W. SHERWOOD</span></p> +<span class="b13">M. E. W. SHERWOOD</span></p> <div class="poetry-container p4"> <div class="poem"> @@ -679,9 +663,9 @@ be served with water-cresses.</p> <p>Red wine should be drunk with game,—Chambertin, Clos de Vougeot, or a sound Lafitte or La Tour claret. Champagne is not the wine to serve with game; that -belongs to the filet. With beef <i>braisé</i> a glass of good +belongs to the filet. With beef <i>braisé</i> a glass of good golden sherry is allowable, but not champagne. The deep -purple, full-bodied, velvety wines of the Côte d'Or,—the +purple, full-bodied, velvety wines of the Côte d'Or,—the generous vintages of Burgundy,—are in order. Indeed these wines always have been in high renown. They are passed as presents from one royal personage to another, @@ -691,7 +675,7 @@ palates. <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_16" id="Page_16">16</a></span></p> <p>Chambertin is a lighter kind of Volnay and the <i>vin -velouté par excellence</i> of the Côte d'Or. It was a great +velouté par excellence</i> of the Côte d'Or. It was a great favourite with Napoleon I. To considerable body it unites a fine flavour and a <i>suave bouquet</i> of great <i>finesse</i>, and does not become thin with age like other Burgundies. @@ -705,14 +689,14 @@ his regiment to the Rhine he commanded his men to halt before the vineyard and salute it. They presented arms in its honour.</p> -<p>Château Lafitte, renowned for its magnificent colour, +<p>Château Lafitte, renowned for its magnificent colour, exquisite softness, delicate flavour, and fragrant bouquet, recalling almonds and violets, is one of the wines of the Gironde, and is supposed of late to have deteriorated in quality; but it is quite good enough to command a high price and the attention of <i>connoisseurs</i>.</p> -<p>Château La Tour, a grand Médoc claret, derives its +<p>Château La Tour, a grand Médoc claret, derives its name from an existing ancient, massive, round tower, which the English assailed and defended by turns during the wars in Guienne. It has a pronounced flavour, and @@ -722,14 +706,14 @@ cordials.</p> <p>These vineyards were in great repute five centuries ago; and it would be delightful to pursue the history of -the various <i>crûs</i>, did time permit. The Cos d'Estoumet -of the famous St. Estephe <i>crûs</i> is still made by the -peasants treading out the grapes, <i>foule à pied</i>, to the +the various <i>crûs</i>, did time permit. The Cos d'Estoumet +of the famous St. Estephe <i>crûs</i> is still made by the +peasants treading out the grapes, <i>foule à pied</i>, to the accompaniment of pipes and fiddles as in the days of Louis XIV. <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_17" id="Page_17">17</a></span></p> -<p>We will mention the two <i>premiers grands crûs</i> of the +<p>We will mention the two <i>premiers grands crûs</i> of the Gironde, the growth of the ancient vineyards of Leoville and the St. Julian wines, distinguished by their odour of violets.</p> @@ -766,7 +750,7 @@ parlour in Brompton, a fine first-class sherry, sound in the mouth, tonic in character, and a great favourite with the Court of Spain."</p> -<p>Our golden sherry, our Chambertin, our Château Lafitte +<p>Our golden sherry, our Chambertin, our Château Lafitte is said often to come from the vineyards of Jersey City and the generous hillsides of Brooklyn; and we might perhaps quote from the famous song of "The @@ -827,7 +811,7 @@ delicate product. the product of the Schuylkill Muscadel, which was the only esteemed growth in the country previous to the cultivation of the Catawba grape, being in fact ambitiously -compared to the <i>crûs</i> of the Gironde. It was a +compared to the <i>crûs</i> of the Gironde. It was a bitter, acidulous wine, little suited to the American palate, and invariably requiring an addition of either sugar or alcohol.</p> @@ -863,7 +847,7 @@ Ohio wines, it is said, to a second place in the market.</p> <p>In the expositions of 1889 at Paris, and in Melbourne, silver medals were awarded to the Inglenook wines, which -are of the red claret, burgundy and Médoc type; also +are of the red claret, burgundy and Médoc type; also white wines,—Sauterne Chasselas, and Hock, Chablis, Riesling, etc.</p> @@ -912,16 +896,16 @@ ochra, of which the negro cooks make such excellent gumbo soup. They have all the salads, and use sorrel much more than we do. They do not cook summer squash as we do, nor have they anything to equal it. They use -vegetables always as an <i>entrée</i>, not served with the meat, +vegetables always as an <i>entrée</i>, not served with the meat, unless the vegetable is cooked with the meat, like beef stewed in carrots, turnips, and onions, veal and green peas, veal with spinach, and so on. The peas are passed -as an <i>entrée</i>, so is the cauliflower, the beet-root, and the +as an <i>entrée</i>, so is the cauliflower, the beet-root, and the turnips. They treat all vegetables as we do corn and asparagus, as a separate course. For asparagus we must give the French the palm, particularly when they serve it with Hollandaise sauce; and the Italians cook cauliflower -with cheese, <i>à ravir</i>. +with cheese, <i>à ravir</i>. <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_22" id="Page_22">22</a></span></p> <h2>THE HOSTESS.</h2> @@ -1029,7 +1013,7 @@ tasteful woman. No matter what the American woman has to fight against, poverty or lack of opportunities, she is likely, if she is called upon to do so, to administer gracefully the hospitalities of the White House or to fill -the difficult <i>rôle</i> of an ambassadress.</p> +the difficult <i>rôle</i> of an ambassadress.</p> <p>Some of them have bad taste perhaps. "What is good taste but an instantaneous, ready appreciation of the fitness @@ -1145,7 +1129,7 @@ agreeable people than at more expensive feasts. Who in America would dare to give such a lunch?</p> <p>The simple dinner might be characterized, giving the -essentials, as a soup, a fish, a roast, one <i>entrée</i>, and a +essentials, as a soup, a fish, a roast, one <i>entrée</i>, and a salad, an ice and fruit (simply the fruit in season), a cup of coffee afterward, with a glass of sherry, claret, or <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_28" id="Page_28">28</a></span> @@ -1153,7 +1137,7 @@ champagne. Such a dinner is good enough for anybody, and is possible to the person of moderate means.</p> <p>From this up to the splendid dinners of millionnaires, -served on gold and silver and priceless Sèvres, Dresden, +served on gold and silver and priceless Sèvres, Dresden, Japanese, and Chinese porcelain, with flagons of ruby glass bound in gold, with Benvenuto Cellini vases, and silver candelabra, the ascent may be gradual. In the @@ -1162,7 +1146,7 @@ may be of duchesse lace over red. The very mats are mirrors, the crystal drops of the epergne flash like diamonds. It may be served in a picture-gallery. Each lady has a bouquet, a fan, a ribbon painted with her -name, a basket or <i>bonbonnière</i> to take home with her. +name, a basket or <i>bonbonnière</i> to take home with her. The courses are often sixteen in number, the wines are of fabulous value, antiquity, and age. Each drop is like the River Pactolus, whose sands were of gold. The viands @@ -1305,7 +1289,7 @@ this inestimable advice:—</p> <div class="poem"> <div class="stanza"> <p class="i2">Si tibi deficiant medici, medici tibi fiant</p> -<p>Hæc tria: mens hilaris, requies, moderata diæta.</p> +<p>Hæc tria: mens hilaris, requies, moderata diæta.</p> </div> <div class="attrib"> <p class="i18"><span class="smcap">Horace.</span></p> @@ -1353,7 +1337,7 @@ Then came a magnificent turkey, a pike, six <i>entremets</i>, and an ample dish of macaroni and Parmesan cheese. Nor was this all. Another course appeared, composed of sweetbread, surrounded with shrimps in jelly, soft -roes, and partridge wings, with a thick sauce or <i>purée</i> of +roes, and partridge wings, with a thick sauce or <i>purée</i> of mushrooms. Last of all came the delicacies,—snipes by the dozen, a pheasant in perfect order, and with them a slice of tunny fish, quite fresh. Naturally, the gourmand @@ -1363,7 +1347,7 @@ and adorning a tale, it may be useful.</p> <p>This anecdote has its historical value as showing us that the present procession of soup, fish, roast, -<i>entrée</i>, game, and dessert was not observed one hundred +<i>entrée</i>, game, and dessert was not observed one hundred years ago, as a fish was served after beef and after turkey.</p> @@ -1389,7 +1373,7 @@ he alone knows the weakest spot,—what would he say to such a dinner?</p> <p>But there are dinners where the gradation is perfect, -where luxury stimulates the brain as Château Yquem +where luxury stimulates the brain as Château Yquem bathes the throat. It would seem as if the Golden Age, the age of Leo X. had come back; and our nineteenth century shows all the virtues of the art of entertaining @@ -1444,7 +1428,7 @@ or earlier. All who have lived much in Europe are apt to prefer the Continental fashion of a cup of tea or coffee in one's room, with perhaps an egg and a roll; then to do one's work or pleasure, as the case may be, and to -take the <i>déjeûner à la fourchette</i> at eleven or twelve. +take the <i>déjeûner à la fourchette</i> at eleven or twelve. To most brain-workers this is a blessed boon, for the heavy American breakfast of chops, steaks, eggs, forcemeat balls, sausages, broiled chicken, stewed potatoes, @@ -1470,7 +1454,7 @@ was then throwing a handful of shavings on the fire.</p> <p>"In the midst of this strange and rude interior Louise seemed to me so fine and delicate, so elegant, with her -long <i>gants de Suède</i>, her little boots, and her tucked-up +long <i>gants de Suède</i>, her little boots, and her tucked-up skirts. With her two hands stretched out she sheltered her face from the flames, and from the corner of her eye, while I was talking with the splitters, she watched the @@ -1561,7 +1545,7 @@ one of Fortune's best gifts.</p> toast; not all the cooks in the great kingdom or empire or republic of France (whatever it may be at this minute) can produce a good slice of toast. They call -it <i>pain rôti</i>, and well they may; for after the poor bread +it <i>pain rôti</i>, and well they may; for after the poor bread has been burned they put it in the oven and roast it. No human being can eat it. It is taken away and grated up for sawdust.</p> @@ -1602,8 +1586,8 @@ perhaps stewed pigeons, with spinach or green peas, or trout from the lake, followed by a beefsteak, with highly flavoured Alpine strawberries or fresh apricots or figs, then all eating is done for the day, until seven -o'clock dinner. This is of course the mid-day <i>déjeûner -à la fourchette</i>. At the earlier breakfast a Swiss hotel +o'clock dinner. This is of course the mid-day <i>déjeûner +à la fourchette</i>. At the earlier breakfast a Swiss hotel offers only coffee, rolls, butter, and honey.</p> <p>All sorts of stews—kidney, liver, chicken, veal, and @@ -1628,7 +1612,7 @@ lambs' feet in a white sauce, with a suspicion of onion. <p>All sorts of fricassees and warmed over things can be made most deliciously for breakfast. Many people like a salt mackerel or a broiled herring for breakfast; these -are good <i>avant goûts</i>, stimulating the appetite. The +are good <i>avant goûts</i>, stimulating the appetite. The Danes and Swedes have every form of dried fish, and even some strange fowl served in this way. Dried beef served up with eggs is comforting to some stomachs. @@ -1640,10 +1624,10 @@ or warmed over mutton or beef, are detestable. The appetite is in a parlous state at nine o'clock and needs to be tempted; a bit of breakfast bacon, a bit of toast, an egg, and a fresh slice of melon or a cold sliced -tomato in summer, <i>voilà tout!</i> as the French say. +tomato in summer, <i>voilà tout!</i> as the French say. Begin with the melon or a plate of strawberries. These early breakfasts at nine o'clock may be followed by the -hot cake, but later on the <i>déjeûner à la fourchette</i>, which +hot cake, but later on the <i>déjeûner à la fourchette</i>, which with us becomes luncheon, demands another order of meal, as we have seen, more like a plain dinner.</p> @@ -1693,7 +1677,7 @@ flavour.</p> coming next to the fine strainer prevents the grounds from filling up the fine holes, and so the coffee is clear,—a grand desideratum. Boiled milk should be served with -coffee for an early breakfast. Clear coffee, <i>café noir</i>, +coffee for an early breakfast. Clear coffee, <i>café noir</i>, is served after dinner, and in France, always after the twelve o'clock breakfast. <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_42" id="Page_42">42</a></span></p> @@ -1702,13 +1686,13 @@ twelve o'clock breakfast. serve tea, and perhaps chocolate, if she has a large family of guests, as all cannot drink coffee for breakfast.</p> -<p>Pigs' feet <i>à la poulette</i> find favour in Paris, and are -delicious as prepared there; also calf's liver <i>à l'Alsacienne</i>. +<p>Pigs' feet <i>à la poulette</i> find favour in Paris, and are +delicious as prepared there; also calf's liver <i>à l'Alsacienne</i>. Chicken livers are very nice, and cod's tongues with black butter cannot be surpassed. Mutton kidneys with bacon are desirable, and all the livers and kidneys <i>en brochette</i> with bacon, empaled on a spit, are excellent. -Hashed lamb <i>à la Zingara</i> is highly peppered and very +Hashed lamb <i>à la Zingara</i> is highly peppered and very good.</p> <p>Broiled fish, broiled chicken, broiled ham, broiled @@ -1743,10 +1727,10 @@ hostess in the Adirondacks who had nothing else to offer! Eggs are the staple for breakfast.</p> <p>Ham omelet with a little parsley, lamb chops with -green peas, tripe <i>à la Bourdelaise</i>, hashed turkey, +green peas, tripe <i>à la Bourdelaise</i>, hashed turkey, hashed chicken with cream, and breaded veal with tomato sauce, calf's brains with a black butter, stewed -veal <i>à la Chasseur</i>, broiled shad's roe, broiled soft-shell +veal <i>à la Chasseur</i>, broiled shad's roe, broiled soft-shell clams, minced tenderloin with Lyonnaise potatoes, blue-fish <i>au gratin</i>, broiled steak with water-cress, picked-up codfish, and smoked beef in cream are of the @@ -1756,7 +1740,7 @@ one can eat them.</p> <p>It is better to eat a saucer of oatmeal and cream at nine o'clock, take a cup of tea, and do one's work; then at twelve to sit down to as good a breakfast as possible,—a -regular <i>déjeuner à la fourchette</i>. The digestion is then +regular <i>déjeuner à la fourchette</i>. The digestion is then active; the brain after several hours work needs repose, and at one or two o'clock can go to work again like a giant refreshed.</p> @@ -1983,7 +1967,7 @@ this breakfast, unless fruit is also added. It is considered a very healthful thing to eat an orange before breakfast. But who can eat an orange well? One <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_48" id="Page_48">48</a></span> -must go to Spain to see that done. The señorita cuts +must go to Spain to see that done. The señorita cuts off the rind with her silver knife. Then putting her fork into the peeled fruit, she gently detaches small slices from the pulp, leaving the core and seeds untouched; passing @@ -2080,7 +2064,7 @@ ladies' lunch in New York, which, laid for twenty-eight people, offers every kind of wine, every luxury of fish, flesh, and fowl, flowers which exhibit the most overwhelming luxury of an extravagant period, fruits and bonbons -and <i>bonbonnières</i>, painted fans to carry home, with +and <i>bonbonnières</i>, painted fans to carry home, with ribbons on which is painted one's monogram, etc.</p> <p>I have seen summer wild-flowers in winter at a ladies' @@ -2122,7 +2106,7 @@ with water and sugar as for a punch, and well frozen.</p> <p>The game follows, and the salad. These two are often served together. After that the ices and fruit. Cheese is rarely offered at a lady's lunch, excepting in the form -of cheese straws. Château Yquem, champagne, and +of cheese straws. Château Yquem, champagne, and claret are the favourite wines. Cordial is offered afterward with the coffee. A lady's lunch-party is supposed to begin at one o'clock and end at three.</p> @@ -2145,7 +2129,7 @@ were given.</p> <p>As the lunch went on we were treated to new surprises <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_52" id="Page_52">52</a></span> -of napery and of Sèvres plates. The napkins became +of napery and of Sèvres plates. The napkins became Russian, embroidered with gold thread, as the spoons and forks were also of Russian silver and gold, beautifully enamelled. Then came those embroidered with heraldic @@ -2204,7 +2188,7 @@ Requests the pleasure of<br /> Company at lunch on Thursday, 15th,<br /> at 1 o'clock.</p> -<p>R. S. V. P.</p> +<p>R. S. V. P.</p> </div> <p>This should be answered at once, and the whole engagement @@ -2243,7 +2227,7 @@ when did they lunch?</p> <p>After some centuries the dinner hour grew to be ten in the morning, by which time they had besieged a town and burned up a dozen heretics, probably to give them a -good appetite, a sort of <i>avant goût</i>. The later hours +good appetite, a sort of <i>avant goût</i>. The later hours now in vogue did not prevail until after the Restoration.</p> <p>Lunch has remained fastened at one o'clock, for a @@ -2301,7 +2285,7 @@ sum to expend on a lady's lunch in New York for eighteen or twenty-five guests, counting the favours, the flowers, the wines, and the viands, and even then we have not entered into the cost of the china, the glass, -porcelain, <i>cloisonné</i>, Dresden, Sèvres, and silver, which +porcelain, <i>cloisonné</i>, Dresden, Sèvres, and silver, which make the table a picture. The jewelled goblets from Carlsbad, the knives and forks with crystal handles, set in silver, from Bohemia, and the endless succession of @@ -2314,13 +2298,13 @@ oysters have already been served on shell-like Majolica. England, a maritime nation surrounded by ocean, must furnish the plates for the fish. For the roast, too, what plates so good as Doulton, real English, substantial -<i>faïence</i>?</p> +<i>faïence</i>?</p> -<p>For the <i>Bouchers à la Reine</i> and all the <i>entrées</i> we -must have Sèvres again.</p> +<p>For the <i>Bouchers à la Reine</i> and all the <i>entrées</i> we +must have Sèvres again.</p> <p>Japanese will do for the <i>filet aux champignons</i>, the -venison, the <i>pièces de resistance</i>, as well as English. +venison, the <i>pièces de resistance</i>, as well as English. Japanese plates are strong. But here we are running into dinner; indeed, these two feasts do run into each other.</p> @@ -2335,7 +2319,7 @@ should lie the ices frozen as natural fruits. We can scarcely tell the frozen banana or peach before us, from the painted banana on our plate.</p> -<p>For the candied fruit, we must again have Sèvres. +<p>For the candied fruit, we must again have Sèvres. Then a gold dish filled with rose-water must be passed. We dip a bit of the napkin in it, for in this country we do have napkins with our luncheon, and wipe our lips @@ -2418,11 +2402,11 @@ or sliced oranges.</p> brandy, sugar, sliced lemon, cracked ice. This is but one tumblerful.</p> -<p><i>Kümmel</i>: This liqueur is very good served with shaved +<p><i>Kümmel</i>: This liqueur is very good served with shaved ice in small green claret-cups.</p> <p><i>Punch</i>: One bottle Arrack, one bottle brandy, two quart -bottles dry champagne, one tumblerful of orange curaçoa, +bottles dry champagne, one tumblerful of orange curaçoa, one pound of cracked sugar, half a dozen lemons sliced, half a dozen oranges sliced. Fill the bowl with large lump of ice and add one quart of water.</p> @@ -2619,7 +2603,7 @@ overwrought women; and thus a healthful, inexpensive and most agreeable adjunct to the art of entertaining grew into a thing without a name, and became the large, gas-lighted ball at five o'clock, where half the ladies were in -<i>decolleté</i> dresses, the others in fur tippets. It was pronounced +<i>decolleté</i> dresses, the others in fur tippets. It was pronounced a breeder of influenzas, and the high road to a headache.</p> @@ -2945,7 +2929,7 @@ L. as absurd and assiduous as ever.</p> <p>"Everybody played their part well, each by a tacit convention sacrificing to the <i>amour propre</i> of his neighbour, each individual really occupied with his own -peculiar <i>rôle</i>, but all apparently happy and mutually +peculiar <i>rôle</i>, but all apparently happy and mutually pleased. Vanity and selfishness, indifference and <i>ennui</i> were veiled under a general mask of good humour and good breeding, and the flowery bonds of politeness and @@ -3025,7 +3009,7 @@ occasions of pleasant festivity.</p> read of them, and to draw our conclusions. I know of no better use to which we can put them than the same rereading which we gave Mrs. Jameson's well-considered -<i>menu</i>: "Each individual really occupied with his own <i>rôle</i>, +<i>menu</i>: "Each individual really occupied with his own <i>rôle</i>, but all apparently happy and mutually pleased. Variety and selfishness or indifference or <i>ennui</i> well veiled under a general mask of good humour and good breeding, and @@ -3053,9 +3037,9 @@ However courtly and hospitable he may be at other times and other hours of the day, he likes to drag his bone into a corner and gnaw it by himself.</p> -<p>The Frenchman, elegant, <i>soigné</i>, and economical, invites +<p>The Frenchman, elegant, <i>soigné</i>, and economical, invites you to the best-cooked dinner in the world, but there is -not much of it. He prefers to entertain you at a café. +not much of it. He prefers to entertain you at a café. Country life in France is delightful, but there is not that luxurious, open-handed entertaining which obtains in England.</p> @@ -3099,7 +3083,7 @@ are not our women greater politicians? Where is our Lady Jersey, our Lady Palmerston, our Princess Belgioso? The Princess Lieven, wife of the Russian Ambassador in London, was said to have held the peace of -Europe in the conduct of her <i>entrées</i>; and a country-woman +Europe in the conduct of her <i>entrées</i>; and a country-woman of our own is to-day supposed to influence the policy of Germany largely by her dinners. From the polished and versatile memoirs of the Grammonts, Walpoles, @@ -3151,7 +3135,7 @@ horror of a nightmare from drinking metheglia and eating half-roasted kid. The political aspect of a Scandinavian heaven was always stormy. Listen to the Trilogy.</p> -<p>In America a hostess sure of her soups and her <i>entrées</i>, +<p>In America a hostess sure of her soups and her <i>entrées</i>, with such talkers as she could command, could influence American political movements—she might influence its music—by her dinners, and become an enviable @@ -3222,19 +3206,19 @@ school-tasks yet,—politics, money-making, science, mental improvement, charities, psychical research, building railroads, steam monitors, colleges, and such like gauds,—too many such distractions to devote themselves -as they ought to the question of <i>entrées</i> and <i>entremets</i>. +as they ought to the question of <i>entrées</i> and <i>entremets</i>. They should endeavour to give the dinner a fitting place. Just see how the noble language of France, which -Racine dignified and Molière amplified, respectfully puts +Racine dignified and Molière amplified, respectfully puts on its robes of state which are lined with ermine when it approaches the great subject of dinner! <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_80" id="Page_80">80</a></span></p> <p>It is to be feared that we are far off from the fine art of dining, although many visits to Paris and much -patronage of Le Doyon's, the Café Anglais, and the -Café des Ambassadeurs, may have prepared us for -the <i>entremet</i> and the <i>pièce de résistance</i>. We are improving +patronage of Le Doyon's, the Café Anglais, and the +Café des Ambassadeurs, may have prepared us for +the <i>entremet</i> and the <i>pièce de résistance</i>. We are improving in this respect and no longer bolt our dinners. The improvement is already manifest in the better tempers and complexions of our people.</p> @@ -3242,11 +3226,11 @@ tempers and complexions of our people.</p> <p>But are we as conscientious as the gentleman in "Punch" who rebuked the giddy girl who would talk to him at dinner? "Do you remember, my dear, that -you are in the house of the best <i>entrées</i> in London? I +you are in the house of the best <i>entrées</i> in London? I wish to eat my dinner."</p> <p>That was a man to cook for! He had his appropriate -calm reserve of appreciation, for the <i>suprême de volaille</i>. +calm reserve of appreciation, for the <i>suprême de volaille</i>. He knew how to watch and wait for the sweetbreads, and green peas. Not thrown away upon him was that last turn which makes the breast of the partridge become @@ -3314,14 +3298,14 @@ touched by hand except the one that pulled it off the blooming tree or uprooted it from the honest ground. Let me be a Timon if you will, and eat green radishes and cabbages, or a Beau Brummel, asphyxiated in the -consumption of a green pea; but no <i>ragoût</i>, <i>côtelette</i>, -<i>compote</i>, <i>crème</i>, or any hint or cooking till the remembrance +consumption of a green pea; but no <i>ragoût</i>, <i>côtelette</i>, +<i>compote</i>, <i>crème</i>, or any hint or cooking till the remembrance of all that I have seen has faded and the smell of it has passed away!"</p> <p>Thus said one who attended a cooking-school, had gone through the mysteries of soup-making, had learned -what <i>sauté</i> means; had mastered <i>entremets</i>, and <i>entrées</i>, +what <i>sauté</i> means; had mastered <i>entremets</i>, and <i>entrées</i>, and <i>plats</i>, and <i>hors d'œuvres</i>; had learned that <i>boudins de veau</i> are simply veal puddings, something a little better than a veal croquette made into a little pie; and @@ -3345,7 +3329,7 @@ depend on the skill of the cook and the arranging mind of the housekeeper, all these are the triumphs of the present age, and worthy of deep thought and consideration. Let the young housekeeper remember that the -pretty <i>entrées</i> made out of yesterday's roast chicken or +pretty <i>entrées</i> made out of yesterday's roast chicken or turkey will be a great saving as well as a great luxury, and she will learn to make them.</p> @@ -3448,9 +3432,9 @@ rearing, in France which we have not mastered. Still we can get good chickens in America, and noble capons, but they are very expensive.</p> -<p>The <i>entrées</i>—here we must go again to those early +<p>The <i>entrées</i>—here we must go again to those early missionaries to a savage shore, the Delmonicos. They -were the high priests of the <i>entrée</i>.</p> +were the high priests of the <i>entrée</i>.</p> <p>The salads—those daughters of luxury, those delicate expressions, in food, of the art of dress—deserve @@ -3625,7 +3609,7 @@ does not sit down until nine. Hence the necessity of a hearty meal at five o'clock tea. The royalties, all blessed with good appetites, eat eggs on toast, hot scones and other good things at five o'clock tea, and take often -an <i>avant goût</i> also at seven.</p> +an <i>avant goût</i> also at seven.</p> <p>In our country half-past seven is generally the most convenient hour, unless one is going to the play afterward, @@ -3705,15 +3689,15 @@ for dinner— <td class="tdc" colspan="2"> Sherry.</td> <td class="tdc">Soup.</td> -<td class="tdc" colspan="2">Sorrel, <i>à l'essence de veau</i>.</td> +<td class="tdc" colspan="2">Sorrel, <i>à l'essence de veau</i>.</td> </tr> <tr> -<td colspan="2" class="tdc">Lobsters, <i>sauté à la Bonnefoy</i>.</td> +<td colspan="2" class="tdc">Lobsters, <i>sauté à la Bonnefoy</i>.</td> <td> </td> <td colspan="2" class="tdc">Chablis.</td> </tr> <tr> -<td colspan="5" class="tdc">Veal Cutlets, <i>à la Zingara</i>.</td> +<td colspan="5" class="tdc">Veal Cutlets, <i>à la Zingara</i>.</td> </tr> <tr> <td colspan="2" class="tdc">Fried sweet potatoes.</td> @@ -3817,7 +3801,7 @@ and very becoming to the lace-work.</p> <p>Not a particle of coarse food must go on that table-cloth. Everything must be brought to each guest from -the broad, magnificent buffet; all must be served <i>à la Russe</i> +the broad, magnificent buffet; all must be served <i>à la Russe</i> <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_95" id="Page_95">95</a></span> from behind a grand, impenetrable screen, which should fence off every dining-room from the butler's @@ -3899,7 +3883,7 @@ passed.</p> <p>The hostess makes the sign for retiring to a <i>salon</i> perhaps <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_97" id="Page_97">97</a></span> rich with magnificent hangings of old gold, with -pictures, with vases of Dresden, of Sèvres, of Kiota, with +pictures, with vases of Dresden, of Sèvres, of Kiota, with statuary, and specimens of Capo di Monti. There coffee may be brought and served by the footmen in cups which Catherine of Russia might have given to Potemkin. The @@ -3931,7 +3915,7 @@ season. But we will venture on one:—</p> <td colspan="2"> </td> </tr> <tr> -<td colspan="2" class="tdc"><i>Crème d'Asperges</i>,</td> +<td colspan="2" class="tdc"><i>Crème d'Asperges</i>,</td> <td> </td> <td colspan="2" class="tdc">Julienne.</td> </tr> @@ -3956,10 +3940,10 @@ and Mushrooms.</td> <td colspan="5" class="tdc">Fried Potatoes.</td> </tr> <tr> -<td colspan="5" class="tdc">Entrées:</td> +<td colspan="5" class="tdc">Entrées:</td> </tr> <tr> -<td colspan="2" class="tdc"><i>Poulet à la Maréchale</i>.</td> +<td colspan="2" class="tdc"><i>Poulet à la Maréchale</i>.</td> <td> </td> <td colspan="2" class="tdc"><i>Petits Pois.</i></td> </tr> @@ -3999,7 +3983,7 @@ and Mushrooms.</td> <tr> <td colspan="2">Rudesheimer.</td> <td> </td> -<td colspan="2" class="tdc"><i>Pâté de foie gras.</i></td> +<td colspan="2" class="tdc"><i>Pâté de foie gras.</i></td> </tr> <tr> <td colspan="5" class="tdc">Hot dessert:</td> @@ -4011,10 +3995,10 @@ and Mushrooms.</td> <td colspan="5" class="tdc">Cold dessert:</td> </tr> <tr> -<td colspan="5" class="tdc"><i>Crème glacée aux tutti frutti.</i></td> +<td colspan="5" class="tdc"><i>Crème glacée aux tutti frutti.</i></td> </tr> <tr> -<td colspan="2" class="tdc"><i>Marron glacés.</i></td> +<td colspan="2" class="tdc"><i>Marron glacés.</i></td> <td class="tdc">Cakes.</td> <td colspan="2" class="tdc">Preserved ginger.</td> </tr> @@ -4024,7 +4008,7 @@ and Mushrooms.</td> <td class="tdr">Port.</td> </tr> <tr> -<td colspan="2" class="tdc">Café.</td> +<td colspan="2" class="tdc">Café.</td> <td> </td> <td colspan="2" class="tdc">Cordials.</td> </tr> @@ -4265,15 +4249,15 @@ the salt; it is almost worse than spilling it.</p> <p>Lady Morgan described the cookery of France as being "the standard and gauge of modern civilization;" and when, during the peace which followed Waterloo, -Brillat Savarin turned his thoughts to the æsthetics of the +Brillat Savarin turned his thoughts to the æsthetics of the dinner-table, he probably added more largely to the health and happiness of the human race than any other known philanthropist. We must not forget what had gone before in the developments and refinements of the reigns of Louis XIV., XV., and the Regent; we must not forget the honour done to gastronomy by such -statesmen as Colbert, such soldiers as Condé, nor by -such a wit and beauty as Madame de Sevigné. +statesmen as Colbert, such soldiers as Condé, nor by +such a wit and beauty as Madame de Sevigné. <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_105" id="Page_105">105</a></span></p> <h2>OF SOUPS.</h2> @@ -4341,7 +4325,7 @@ experience, and we have the first problem in the dangerous process of dinner-giving staring us in the face. A greasy, watery, ill-considered soup will take away the appetite of even a hungry man; while a delicate white -or brown soup, or the <i>purées</i> of peas and asparagus, may +or brown soup, or the <i>purées</i> of peas and asparagus, may well whet the appetite of the most pampered <i>gourmet</i>.</p> <p>The subject of soup-making may well be studied. A @@ -4350,7 +4334,7 @@ first importance in the construction of a dinner. Soup should be made the day before it is to be eaten, by boiling either a knuckle of veal for a white soup, three or four pounds of beef, with the bone well cracked, for a -clear <i>consommé</i>, or by putting the bones of fish, chickens, +clear <i>consommé</i>, or by putting the bones of fish, chickens, and meat into water with salt and pepper, and thus making an economical soup, which may, however, be very good. The French put everything into the soup pot,—bones, @@ -4364,7 +4348,7 @@ It is to be observed that every soup should be allowed to cool, and all the fat should be skimmed off, so that the residuum may be as clear as wine.</p> -<p>Delicate soups, clear <i>consommé</i>, and white soups <i>à la +<p>Delicate soups, clear <i>consommé</i>, and white soups <i>à la Reine</i>, are great favourites in America, but in England they make a strong, savoury article, which they call gravy soup. It is well to know how to prepare this, as it @@ -4435,16 +4419,16 @@ to look exactly like turtle. This soup is found canned and is almost as good as the real article. </p></div> -<p>Dried-pea soup, <i>crème d'asperge</i>, and bean soup, in -fact all the <i>purées</i>, are very healthful and elegant soups. -The <i>purée</i> is the mashed mass of pea or bean, which is +<p>Dried-pea soup, <i>crème d'asperge</i>, and bean soup, in +fact all the <i>purées</i>, are very healthful and elegant soups. +The <i>purée</i> is the mashed mass of pea or bean, which is added to the stock.</p> <div class="blockquot"> <p>Boil a pint of large peas in a quart of water with a sprig of parsley or mint, and a dozen or so of green onions. When the peas are done strain and rub them through a -sieve, put the <i>purée</i> back into the liquor the peas were +sieve, put the <i>purée</i> back into the liquor the peas were boiled in, add a pint of good veal or beef broth, a lump of sugar, and pepper and salt to taste. Let the soup get thoroughly hot without boiling, stir in an ounce of good @@ -4457,7 +4441,7 @@ by using a can of corn, with a small piece of pork. This warmed up quickly, with a little milk added, is very good.</p> -<p>As for a <i>crème d'asperge</i>, it is better to employ a <i>chef</i> +<p>As for a <i>crème d'asperge</i>, it is better to employ a <i>chef</i> to teach the new cook.</p> <p>Mulligatawny soup is a visitor from India. It should @@ -4533,7 +4517,7 @@ for four or five hours, when the head and neck will not be too much cooked for the family dinner, and may be served either with parsley or onion sauce. It is a most savoury morsel. Strain the soup, and let it cool so as to remove every particle -of fat. Rub the vegetables through a sieve to a fine <i>purée</i>. +of fat. Rub the vegetables through a sieve to a fine <i>purée</i>. Mix a tablespoonful of flour in a quarter of a pint of milk; make the soup boil up and stir it in with the vegetables.</p> @@ -4601,7 +4585,7 @@ are not to be despised. <p>Cauliflower, which Thackeray calls the "apotheosis of cabbage," is the most delicate of vegetables; and a -<i>purée</i> of cauliflower shall close our chapter on soups.</p> +<i>purée</i> of cauliflower shall close our chapter on soups.</p> <div class="blockquot"> <p>Boil in salted water, using a small piece of butter, two @@ -4610,14 +4594,14 @@ dilute with two quarts of sauce and a quart of chicken broth, season with salt, white pepper, and grated nutmeg. Add a teaspoonful of fine white sugar, then pass the whole forcibly with a wooden presser through a fine sieve,—the finer the -sieve the better the <i>purée</i>. Put the residue in a stewpan, set +sieve the better the <i>purée</i>. Put the residue in a stewpan, set it on the fire, stir all the while till it boils, let it boil for ten minutes, strain well, add a mixture made with the yolks of six eggs and half a pint of cream, finish with four ounces of -table butter, and serve with small, fried, square <i>croûtons</i>. +table butter, and serve with small, fried, square <i>croûtons</i>. </p></div> -<p>A <i>purée</i> of celery is equally excellent; but all these +<p>A <i>purée</i> of celery is equally excellent; but all these soups require an intelligent cook. It is better to have one's cook taught to make soups by an expert, for it is the most difficult of all the dishes, if thoroughly @@ -4744,7 +4728,7 @@ which is used for the production of poetry or prose.</p> <p>England is famed for its good fish, as why should it not be, with the ocean around it? The turbot is, <i>par excellence</i>, the fish for a Lord Mayor's dinner, and it is -admirable <i>à la crème</i> for anybody's dinner. Excellent +admirable <i>à la crème</i> for anybody's dinner. Excellent is the whitebait of Richmond, that mysterious little dwarf. Eaten with slices of brown bread and butter it is a very delicious morsel, and the whiting, which always @@ -4754,7 +4738,7 @@ as a whiting, except a <i>sole au gratin</i> with sauce Tartare?</p> <p>Fresh herrings in Scotland are delicious, almost equal <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_116" id="Page_116">116</a></span> -to the red mullets which Cæsar once ate at Marseilles. +to the red mullets which Cæsar once ate at Marseilles. The fresh sardines at Nice, and all along the Mediterranean, are very delicate, as are the thousand shell-fish. The langoose, or large lobster of France and the Mediterranean, @@ -4886,7 +4870,7 @@ tablespoonfuls of sweet oil, and season them with a teaspoonful of salt, and a saltspoonful of cayenne pepper. Beat up thoroughly, dip each oyster in this mixture and then in bread crumbs, and fry in hot oil. The best and -most elegant way of cooking an oyster is, however, "<i>à la +most elegant way of cooking an oyster is, however, "<i>à la poulette</i>."</p> <div class="blockquot"> @@ -4904,7 +4888,7 @@ place them in the coals in an open fireplace, or to roast them in hot ashes until the shells snap open.</p> <p>When the oyster departs then the clam takes his -place, and is delicious as an <i>avant goût</i> or an appetizer +place, and is delicious as an <i>avant goût</i> or an appetizer at a dinner. If clams are broiled they must be done quickly, else they become hard and indigestible.</p> @@ -5040,10 +5024,10 @@ arrives at just that perfect way of cooking a trout. When the trout has come down from cooling springs to the hot city, it requires a seasoning of salt, pepper, and lemon-juice.</p> -<p>Frogs—frogs as cooked in France, <i>grenouilles à la +<p>Frogs—frogs as cooked in France, <i>grenouilles à la poulette</i>—are a most luxurious delicacy. They are very -expensive and are to be bought at the <i>marché St. -Honoré</i>. <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_123" id="Page_123">123</a></span> +expensive and are to be bought at the <i>marché St. +Honoré</i>. <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_123" id="Page_123">123</a></span> As only the hind legs are eaten, and the price is fifteen francs a dozen, they are not often seen. We might have them in this country for the catching. Of @@ -5077,7 +5061,7 @@ together with bay leaves, pepper, and lumps of ice. <p class="p2">Of all the vegetables of which a salad can be made, lettuce is the greatest favourite. That lettuce -which is <i>panachée</i>, says the <i>Almanach des Gourmands</i>, +which is <i>panachée</i>, says the <i>Almanach des Gourmands</i>, that is, when it has streaked or variegated leaves, is truly <i>une salade de distinction</i>. We prefer in this country the fine, crisp, solid little heads, of which the leaves are @@ -5218,7 +5202,7 @@ mustard, four salt ladles of salt. Three spoonfuls of best Italian oil, twelve of vinegar, three unboiled eggs. All are to be carefully rubbed together." This is for those who like sours and not sweets. An old French -<i>émigré</i>, who had to make his living in England during +<i>émigré</i>, who had to make his living in England during the time of the Regency, a man of taste and refinement, an epicurean Marquis, carried to noblemen's houses his <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_128" id="Page_128">128</a></span> @@ -5244,7 +5228,7 @@ which has been mixed with cold water. When it begins to boil stir in the beaten yolks of two eggs. As it cools beat it well to prevent it from being lumpy, and when nearly cold stir in the juice of two lemons, a little tarragon vinegar, a -pinch of salt, and a <i>soupçon</i> of cayenne pepper. Peel and +pinch of salt, and a <i>soupçon</i> of cayenne pepper. Peel and slice some very ripe tomatoes or cold potatoes, steep them in vinegar with cayenne, pounded ginger, and plenty of salt. Lay these around the fish and cover with cream sauce. @@ -5258,12 +5242,12 @@ with a cold fish foundation.</p> <p>This art of dressing cold vegetables with pepper, salt, oil, and vinegar, should be studied. In France they give -you these salads to perfection at the <i>déjeuner à la +you these salads to perfection at the <i>déjeuner à la fourchette</i>. Fillippini, of Delmonico's, in his admirable work, "The Table," adds Swedish salad, String Bean -Salad, Russian Salad, Salad Macédoine, <i>Escarolle</i>, <i>Doucette</i>, +Salad, Russian Salad, Salad Macédoine, <i>Escarolle</i>, <i>Doucette</i>, <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_129" id="Page_129">129</a></span> -<i>Dandelion à la coutoise</i>, <i>Baib de Capucine</i>, Cauliflower +<i>Dandelion à la coutoise</i>, <i>Baib de Capucine</i>, Cauliflower salad, and <i>Salad a l'Italian</i>. I advise any young housekeeper to buy this book of his, as suggestive. It is too elaborate and learned, however, for practical @@ -5414,7 +5398,7 @@ delicate and consummate luxuries.</p> <p>Four times the spoon with oil of Lucca crown,</p> <p class="i1">And twice with vinegar, procured from town;</p> <p>And lastly, o'er the favoured compound toss</p> -<p class="i1">A magic <i>soupçon</i> of anchovy sauce.</p> +<p class="i1">A magic <i>soupçon</i> of anchovy sauce.</p> <p>Oh, green and glorious! Oh, herbaceous treat!</p> <p class="i1">'T would tempt the dying anchorite to eat!</p> <p>Back to the world would turn his fleeting soul,</p> @@ -5524,7 +5508,7 @@ as an east wind, has not sighed for an American pie? In Paris the cakes are pretty to look at, but oh, how they break their promise when you eat them! Nothing but sweetened white of egg. One thing they surpass us -in,—<i>omelette soufflé</i>; and a <i>gâteau St. Honoré</i> is good, but +in,—<i>omelette soufflé</i>; and a <i>gâteau St. Honoré</i> is good, but with that word of praise we dismiss the great French nation. <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_135" id="Page_135">135</a></span></p> @@ -5588,7 +5572,7 @@ what pretty things kitchens are.</p> milk-pans, in which the cream is marked off by a neat little thermometer, and its fire-brick floor. How cool and neat it is! Sometimes a stream of fresh water flows -under the floor, as the river runs under the Château of +under the floor, as the river runs under the Château of Chenonceaux, where Diane de Poitiers dressed her golden hair.</p> @@ -5651,7 +5635,7 @@ preachers, and authors, when we were given what we proudly term a higher intelligence. Who would not exchange all the cold, mathematical, intellectual supremacy of which we boast for that luscious gift of making -pies and puddings <i>à ravir</i>?</p> +pies and puddings <i>à ravir</i>?</p> <p>The making of pastry is so delicate and so varied a task that we can only say, approach it with cold hands, @@ -5684,7 +5668,7 @@ little boiling water, a tablespoonful to two eggs, and a teaspoonful of sifted sugar put to them before beating is commenced, facilitates the operation.</p> -<p>For <i>omelette soufflé</i> the white of eggs, beaten, should be +<p>For <i>omelette soufflé</i> the white of eggs, beaten, should be firm enough to cut. <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_139" id="Page_139">139</a></span></p> @@ -5731,14 +5715,14 @@ the so-called creams.</p> <p>Some ardent housekeepers put up all their jams, <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_140" id="Page_140">140</a></span> preserves, and currant jelly; some even make the cordials -curaçoa, noyau, peach brandy, ginger cordial, and cherry +curaçoa, noyau, peach brandy, ginger cordial, and cherry brandy, but this is unnecessary. They can be bought cheaper and better than they can be made.</p> <p>The history of liqueurs is a curious one. Does any one ever think, as he tastes Chartreuse, of the gloomy monks who dig their own graves, and never speak save -to say, "Mes frères, il faut mourir," who alone can make +to say, "Mes frères, il faut mourir," who alone can make this sparkling and delicate liqueur which figures at every grand feast?</p> @@ -5751,7 +5735,7 @@ liqueur which enchants the world, out of the chamomile and other herbs which grow around his convent.</p> <p>The best French liqueurs were made formerly at La -Côte by the Visetandine nuns. Kirschwasser is made +Côte by the Visetandine nuns. Kirschwasser is made from the cherries which grow in the Alpine Tyrol, in one small province which produces nothing else.</p> @@ -5760,7 +5744,7 @@ A cordial was made by mixing brandy with sugar and scents.</p> <p>In making a mince pie, do not forget the excellent -brandy, and the dash of orange curaçoa, which should +brandy, and the dash of orange curaçoa, which should be put in by the lady herself. Else why is it that otherwise the mince pie seems to lack the inspiriting and hidden fire. We read that there is "many a slip 'twixt @@ -5783,7 +5767,7 @@ the end of a dinner for unexpected guests.</p> <div class="blockquot"> <p>Take as many eggs as there are guests, and then about a -third as much by weight of the best Gruyères cheese, and +third as much by weight of the best Gruyères cheese, and the half of that of butter. Break and beat up well the eggs in a saucepan, then add the butter and the cheese, grated or cut in small pieces; place the saucepan on the fire, and stir @@ -5876,7 +5860,7 @@ shores, its donjon keeps and haunted Tenter Rock, its</p> <p>all this beauty is placed in the land of the sauer-kraut, the herring salad, the sweet stewed fruit with pork, pig and prune sauce, carp stewed in beer, raw goose-flesh -or Göttingen sausages, potato sweetened, and cabbage +or Göttingen sausages, potato sweetened, and cabbage soured,—in a land, in short, whose kitchen is an abomination to all other nations.</p> @@ -5886,14 +5870,14 @@ German hotel in a great city. But all the cooks are French. The powerful young emperor has, however, given his orders that all <i>menus</i> shall hereafter be written in German; the language of Ude, Soyer, Valet, and -Francatelli, Brillat, Savarin, and Béchamel, is to be +Francatelli, Brillat, Savarin, and Béchamel, is to be replaced by German.</p> <p>But if the viands are not good, the wines are highly praised by the <i>gourmet</i>; and as these wines are often exported, it is said that one gets a better German wine in New York than at a second-class hotel at Bonn or -Cologne or Düsseldorf,—on the same principle that fish +Cologne or Düsseldorf,—on the same principle that fish at Newport is less fresh than at New York, for it is all bought, sent to New York, and then sent back to Newport. In other words, the exporters are careful to keep @@ -5929,7 +5913,7 @@ ordinarily attributed.</p> <div class="poem"> <div class="stanza"> <p class="o1">"At Frankfort on the Maine,</p> -<p>And at Würtzburg on the Stein,</p> +<p>And at Würtzburg on the Stein,</p> <p>At Bacharach on the Rhine,</p> <p>Grow the three best kinds of wine."</p> </div> @@ -5978,7 +5962,7 @@ wines. One of the English poets sings:—</p> </div> <p>The Steinbergers, the Hochheimers, Marcobrunners, -and Rüdesheimers, sound like so many noble families. +and Rüdesheimers, sound like so many noble families. Indeed an American senator, hearing these fine names, remarked: "I have no doubt, sir, they are all very nice girls." @@ -6005,7 +5989,7 @@ Conrad of Hotstettin from the sleep of centuries.</p> Of Rhine wines for bouquet, refined flavour, combined richness and delicacy. We do not except Schloss Johannisberger, because that is not in the market. A Marcobrunner -and a Rüdesheimer are not to be despised.</p> +and a Rüdesheimer are not to be despised.</p> <p>Prince Metternich sent to Jules Janin for his autograph, and the witty poet editor sent a receipt for twelve bottles @@ -6017,7 +6001,7 @@ wine is excessively sweet, singularly soft, and gives forth a delicious perfume, a rich, limpid, amber-coloured wine, with a faint bitter flavour; it is as beautiful to look at as it is luscious to the taste, and it possesses a bouquet -which the Empress Eugénie compared to that of heliotrope, +which the Empress Eugénie compared to that of heliotrope, violets, and geranium leaves combined.</p> <p>The refined pungent flavour of a good Hock, its slight @@ -6031,7 +6015,7 @@ greets his bride, the Earth, after he has been separated from her for twelve dark hours.</p> <p>Some very good wine comes from the Rochusberg, immediately -opposite Rüdesheim. Goethe heard a sermon +opposite Rüdesheim. Goethe heard a sermon here once in which the preacher glorified God in proportion to the number of bottles of good wine it was daily vouchsafed to him to stow away under his waistband.</p> @@ -6111,15 +6095,15 @@ in Germany. He revolted at things German, but endeared himself to his people by his wit, universality of talent, and sincerity. The world has thanked him for his "Reisebilder." Heine gives us new ideas of the horrors -of German cookery when he talks of Göttingen sausages, +of German cookery when he talks of Göttingen sausages, Hamburg smoked beef, Pomeranian goose-breasts, ox-tongues, calf's brains in pastry, gudgeon cakes, and "a wretched pig's-head in a wretcheder sauce, which has neither a Grecian nor a Persian flavour, but which tasted like tea and soft soap."</p> -<p>He cannot leave Göttingen without this description: -"The town of Göttingen, celebrated for its sausages and +<p>He cannot leave Göttingen without this description: +"The town of Göttingen, celebrated for its sausages and its university, belongs to the King of Hanover, and contains nine hundred and ninety-nine dwellings, divers chambers, an observatory, a prison, a library, and a @@ -6127,7 +6111,7 @@ council chamber where the beer is excellent."</p> <p>German sausages are very good. Even the great Goethe, in dying, remembered to send a sausage to his -æsthetic love of a lifetime, the Frau Von Stein.</p> +æsthetic love of a lifetime, the Frau Von Stein.</p> <p>Thackeray, who was keenly alive to the horrors of German cookery, says that whatever is not sour is greasy, @@ -6154,7 +6138,7 @@ like flour cakes, served with apple or plum sauce.</p> and pickled. There are two delicious dishes in which it plays an important part: one is roast pheasant cut fine and cooked with sauer-kraut and champagne; the other -is sauer-kraut cooked in the <i>croûte</i> of a Strasbourg <i>pâté +is sauer-kraut cooked in the <i>croûte</i> of a Strasbourg <i>pâté de foie gras</i>.</p> <p>Favourite Austro-Hungarian dishes are <i>bachhendl</i>, @@ -6256,7 +6240,7 @@ AUTHORS AND GENIUSES.</h2> <p>Can help to make man work, to make him think."</p> </div> <div class="stanza"> -<p class="o1">"Pray, on what meat hath this our Cæsar fed?"</p> +<p class="o1">"Pray, on what meat hath this our Cæsar fed?"</p> </div> </div> </div> @@ -6291,7 +6275,7 @@ him the "more for each surcease."</p> of Dyspepsia, and can be as plainly traced to it as to the growth of his understanding or the sincerity of his convictions. Who does not recognize, in the oddities -of the trials and spiritual agonies of Herr Teufelsdröckh, +of the trials and spiritual agonies of Herr Teufelsdröckh, the author himself under a thin disguise, and the promotings and promptings, and phenomena of censuring indigestion? All through the "Sartor Resartus" it is evident @@ -6602,7 +6586,7 @@ Prescott's charm, the genius of Motley and of Lowell, the oratory of Depew, the wit of Parke Godwin and Horace Porter, even the magnificent march of Sherman to the sea, the great genius of Bryant, the sparkling cup -of Anacreon, O. W. Holmes, the masterly speech of our +of Anacreon, O. W. Holmes, the masterly speech of our lawyers, and the unrivalled eloquence of our pulpit orators, are owing to that earlier style of domestic American cookery which was, and is, and always shall be, deserving @@ -6643,7 +6627,7 @@ under the sun.</p> theatre or opera, the gentleman host always carries a box of bonbons, within which is a little imitation-silver sugar-tongs by which she can help herself to a chocolate or a -<i>marron déguisé</i>, without soiling her fingers. This pampered +<i>marron déguisé</i>, without soiling her fingers. This pampered dame does not consider that France makes annually sixty million of francs' worth of bonbons; that it exports only about one fourth of this, leaving an enormous @@ -6677,9 +6661,9 @@ their first advent in 1814.</p> detonating powder-charged bonbons which every one hears at a dinner-party, as the fringed papers are pulled. Then come the <i>primaveras</i>, a variety of sugared bomb. -Then the <i>marquises</i>, <i>orangines</i>, <i>marron glacé</i>, or sugared -chestnut, <i>cerises pralinée</i>, burnt cherries, <i>bowles</i>, <i>ananas</i>, -<i>dattes au café</i>, dates delightfully stuffed and covered with +Then the <i>marquises</i>, <i>orangines</i>, <i>marron glacé</i>, or sugared +chestnut, <i>cerises pralinée</i>, burnt cherries, <i>bowles</i>, <i>ananas</i>, +<i>dattes au café</i>, dates delightfully stuffed and covered with sugar, <i>diables noirs</i>, <i>ganaches</i>, and an ephemeral but delicious candy, <i>bonbons fondants</i>, with an inscription on the box that "these must be eaten within twenty-four @@ -6762,9 +6746,9 @@ use beet sugar almost entirely in France,—is to comprehend anew how many of the greatest of all curiosities are hidden in the kitchen.</p> -<p>One must go to Chambéry, in Savoy, to taste some +<p>One must go to Chambéry, in Savoy, to taste some <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_166" id="Page_166">166</a></span> -of the most exquisite <i>pâtisserie</i>, to find the most delicious +of the most exquisite <i>pâtisserie</i>, to find the most delicious candied fruits; and at Montpellier, in the south of France, is another most celebrated manufactory of bonbons.</p> @@ -6785,12 +6769,12 @@ into the world, this famous <i>cachet</i> sent nothing but good-will and pleasure, barring perhaps a possible danger.</p> <p>If, however, we speak of the bonbons themselves, -what can we say of the <i>bonbonnières</i>! Everything that +what can we say of the <i>bonbonnières</i>! Everything that is beautiful, everything that is curious, everything that is quaint, everything that is ludicrous, everything that is timely, is utilized. I received an immense green satin grasshopper—the last <i>jour de l'an</i>, in Paris—filled to -his uttermost <i>antennæ</i> with bonbons. It could be for +his uttermost <i>antennæ</i> with bonbons. It could be for once said that the "grasshopper had not become a burden." The <i>panier Watteau</i>, formed of satin, pearls, straw, and flowers, may be made to conceal a handkerchief @@ -6799,7 +6783,7 @@ The boxes are painted by artists, and remain a lovely belonging for a toilet table.</p> <p>Beautiful metal reproductions of some antique <i>chef -d'œuvre</i> are made into <i>bonbonnières</i>. Some bonbon-boxes +d'œuvre</i> are made into <i>bonbonnières</i>. Some bonbon-boxes <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_167" id="Page_167">167</a></span> have themselves concealed in huge bouquets of violets, fringed with lace, or hidden under roses, which @@ -6807,7 +6791,7 @@ are skilfully growing out of white satin; beautiful reticules, all embroidered, hold the carefully bound up packages, where tinfoil preserves the silk and satin from contact with the sugar. If France did nothing else but -make <i>bonbonnières</i>, she would prove her claim to being +make <i>bonbonnières</i>, she would prove her claim to being the most ingenious purveyor for the luxury of entertaining in all the world. If luxury means, "to freight the passing hour with flying happiness," France does her @@ -6835,7 +6819,7 @@ a long railway journey can be imagined.</p> <p>The French do not consider bonbons unhealthful. Instead of giving her boy a piece of bread and butter as -he departs for the <i>Lycée</i> the French mamma gives him +he departs for the <i>Lycée</i> the French mamma gives him two or three chocolate bonbons. The hunter takes these <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_168" id="Page_168">168</a></span> to the top of the Matterhorn; ladies take them in their @@ -6868,7 +6852,7 @@ Blois! It was a childish custom, and proved that the age had a sweet tooth; but it might have been useful for diplomatic purposes, and highly conducive to flirting. As a Lord Chief Justice once said that "snuff and snuff-boxes -help to develop character," so the <i>bonbonnière</i> helps +help to develop character," so the <i>bonbonnière</i> helps to emphasize manners; and I am always pleased when an old or new friend opens for me a little silver box and offers me a sugared violet, or a rose leaf conserved in @@ -6983,14 +6967,14 @@ following verses:—</p> <p class="i1">Handfuls of stolen fruit, and sang for glee.</p> </div> <div class="stanza"> -<p class="o1">"So runs the story,—'<i>Garçon</i>, bring the <i>carte</i>,</p> +<p class="o1">"So runs the story,—'<i>Garçon</i>, bring the <i>carte</i>,</p> <p class="i1">Soup, cutlets—stay—and mind, a <i>matelotte</i>.'</p> <p>And 'Charles,—a pint of Burgundy's best Beanne;</p> <p class="i1">In our deep glasses every joy shall float!'</p> <p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_172" id="Page_172">172</a></span></p> </div> <div class="stanza"> -<p class="o1">"And '<i>Garçon</i>, bring me from the woven frail</p> +<p class="o1">"And '<i>Garçon</i>, bring me from the woven frail</p> <p class="i1">That turbaned merchants from fair Smyrna sent,</p> <p>The figs with golden seeds, the honeyed fruit,</p> <p class="i1">That feast the stranger in the Syrian tent.</p> @@ -7056,7 +7040,7 @@ was fishing about in a cup of posset a thousand years ago.</p> <p>The dessert is allowed by all French writers to be of -Italian origin; and we read of the <i>maîtres d'hotel</i>, before +Italian origin; and we read of the <i>maîtres d'hotel</i>, before the Italian dessert arrived, probably introduced by Catherine de Medici and the Guises, that they gloried in mountains of fruit, and sticky hills of sweetmeats. The @@ -7068,8 +7052,8 @@ puppets abused by Horace Walpole; but Frenchmen delighted in seas of glass, flower-beds formed of coloured sand, and little sugar men and women promenading in enamelled bowling-greens. We get some idea of the -magnificent fêtes of Louis XIV. at Versailles from the -glowing descriptions of Molière.</p> +magnificent fêtes of Louis XIV. at Versailles from the +glowing descriptions of Molière.</p> <p>Dufoy in 1805 introduced "frizzled muslin into a slice <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_174" id="Page_174">174</a></span> @@ -7193,7 +7177,7 @@ night. <div class="blockquot"> <p>Boil one bushel of tomatoes until soft, squeeze through a -sieve, add to the juice half a gallon of vinegar, 1½ pints +sieve, add to the juice half a gallon of vinegar, 1½ pints salt, 3 ounces of whole cloves, 1 ounce of allspice, 2 ounces of cayenne pepper, 3 tablespoonfuls of black pepper, 3 heads of garlic, skinned and separated; boil three hours or @@ -7230,7 +7214,7 @@ ounces of butter till very soft, add one quart of peeled tomatoes; stew chicken in water until tender, and pick to pieces. Add enough of the gravy to make a quart, put with the onions and tomatoes. Let it stew fifteen minutes gently. -Put into boiling water 2½ pounds of spaghetti and a +Put into boiling water 2½ pounds of spaghetti and a handful of salt, boil twenty minutes or until tender; drain this and put in a layer on a platter sprinkled with grated cheese, and pour the stew on it. Fill the platter with these @@ -7244,8 +7228,8 @@ leads to dreams, and bad ones, but it is worth a nightmare:—</p> <div class="blockquot"> -<p>1½ cups of sugar, 2½ cups of flour, ½ cup of butter, -½ cup of sweet milk, whites of six eggs, 3 small teaspoons +<p>1½ cups of sugar, 2½ cups of flour, ½ cup of butter, +½ cup of sweet milk, whites of six eggs, 3 small teaspoons of baking powder. Bake in two or three layers on a griddle.</p> <p><i>Filling</i>: 1 small cocoanut grated, 1 pound almonds @@ -7298,7 +7282,7 @@ dinner:"—</p> </tr> <tr> <td> </td> -<td class="tdc">Round of beef <i>braisé</i>,</td> +<td class="tdc">Round of beef <i>braisé</i>,</td> <td class="tdr">Madeira.</td> </tr> <tr> @@ -7309,7 +7293,7 @@ dinner:"—</p> <tr> <td>Champagne.</td> <td class="tdc">Roast plover with cress. </td> -<td class="tdr">Château Yquem.</td> +<td class="tdr">Château Yquem.</td> </tr> <tr> <td colspan="3" class="tdc">Chiccory Salad.</td> @@ -7344,12 +7328,12 @@ dinner:"—</p> </tr> <tr> <td> </td> -<td class="tdc"><i>Filet</i> of lobster <i>à la Mazarin</i>.</td> +<td class="tdc"><i>Filet</i> of lobster <i>à la Mazarin</i>.</td> <td> </td> </tr> <tr> <td> </td> -<td class="tdc">Turkey rings with <i>purée</i> of chestnuts.</td> +<td class="tdc">Turkey rings with <i>purée</i> of chestnuts.</td> <td> </td> </tr> <tr> @@ -7378,7 +7362,7 @@ party, but it is very well composed. A much more elaborate <td colspan="5" class="tdc">Soup:</td> </tr> <tr> -<td colspan="5" class="tdc"><i>Consommé royale</i>.</td> +<td colspan="5" class="tdc"><i>Consommé royale</i>.</td> </tr> <tr> <td colspan="2"> </td> @@ -7406,11 +7390,11 @@ party, but it is very well composed. A much more elaborate </tr> <tr> <td colspan="2">Madeira,</td> -<td class="tdc"><i>Entreés</i>:</td> +<td class="tdc"><i>Entreés</i>:</td> <td colspan="2"> </td> </tr> <tr> -<td colspan="5" class="tdc">Sweetbreads <i>braisé</i>.</td> +<td colspan="5" class="tdc">Sweetbreads <i>braisé</i>.</td> </tr> <tr> <td colspan="2"> </td> @@ -7444,7 +7428,7 @@ party, but it is very well composed. A much more elaborate <tr> <td colspan="2"> </td> <td class="tdc">Stewed tomatoes.</td> -<td class="tdr" colspan="2">Château Yquem.</td> +<td class="tdr" colspan="2">Château Yquem.</td> </tr> <tr> <td colspan="5" class="tdc">Dessert:</td> @@ -7480,8 +7464,8 @@ of October, is the following:—</p> Soup.<br /> Bisque of crayfish.<br /> Fish.<br /> -Baked smelts, <i>à la Mentone</i>,<br /> -Potato balls, <i>à la Rouenaise</i>,<br /> +Baked smelts, <i>à la Mentone</i>,<br /> +Potato balls, <i>à la Rouenaise</i>,<br /> Ribs of beef braised, stewed with vegetables.<br /> Brussels sprouts.<br /> Roast birds, or quail on toast.<br /> @@ -7514,7 +7498,7 @@ Finish with three ounces of table butter, a glass of Madeira wine, and a pinch of cayenne pepper; serve hot in soup tureen with the crayfish tails.</p> -<p><i>To prepare baked smelts à la Mentone</i>: Spread in a large +<p><i>To prepare baked smelts à la Mentone</i>: Spread in a large and narrow baking-dish some fish forcemeat half an inch thick, have two dozen large, fresh, well-cleaned smelts, lay them down in a row on the forcemeat, season with salt, pepper, @@ -7524,7 +7508,7 @@ of butter on each one and bake for half an hour in a pretty hot oven, then squeeze the juice of a lemon over and serve in a baking-dish.</p> -<p><i>To make potato balls à la Rouenaise</i>: Boil the potatoes +<p><i>To make potato balls à la Rouenaise</i>: Boil the potatoes and rub them fine, then roll each ball in white of egg, lay them on a floured table, roll into shape of a pigeon's egg, dip them in melted butter, and fry a light brown in clear hot @@ -7532,11 +7516,11 @@ grease. Sprinkle fine salt over and serve in a folded napkin.</p> <p><i>To prepare braised ribs of beef</i>: Have a small set of three <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_182" id="Page_182">182</a></span> -ribs cut short, cook it as <i>beef à la mode</i>, that is, stew it with +ribs cut short, cook it as <i>beef à la mode</i>, that is, stew it with spices and vegetables, dish it up with carrots, turnips, and onions, pour the reduced gravy over.</p> -<p><i>To prepare Brussels sprouts, demi-glacé</i>: Trim and wash +<p><i>To prepare Brussels sprouts, demi-glacé</i>: Trim and wash the sprouts, soak them in boiling salted water about thirty minutes, cool them in cold water, and drain them. Put six ounces of butter in a large frying-pan, melt it and put the @@ -7560,7 +7544,7 @@ report:—</p> <td colspan="3" class="tdc">Cold boned turkey, with truffles.</td> </tr> <tr> -<td colspan="3" class="tdc"><i>Pâtés</i> of game, truffled.</td> +<td colspan="3" class="tdc"><i>Pâtés</i> of game, truffled.</td> </tr> <tr> <td colspan="3" class="tdc">Ham cooked in Madeira sauce.</td> @@ -7569,7 +7553,7 @@ report:—</p> <td colspan="3" class="tdc">Aspic of chicken.</td> </tr> <tr> -<td colspan="3" class="tdc"><i>Pâté de foie gras.</i></td> +<td colspan="3" class="tdc"><i>Pâté de foie gras.</i></td> </tr> <tr> <td colspan="3" class="tdc">Salads of chicken and lobster in forms, surrounded by jelly.</td> @@ -7589,7 +7573,7 @@ report:—</p> <td colspan="3" class="tdc">Chicken and lobster croquettes.</td> </tr> <tr> -<td><i>Chocolat à la crème.</i></td> +<td><i>Chocolat à la crème.</i></td> <td> </td> <td class="tdr">Coffee.</td> </tr> @@ -7622,7 +7606,7 @@ report:—</p> <p>One could have satisfied an appetite with all this.</p> -<p>General Grant was probably the most <i>fêted</i> American +<p>General Grant was probably the most <i>fêted</i> American who ever visited Europe. He was entertained by every monarch and by many most distinguished citizens. The Duke of Wellington opened the famous Waterloo Room @@ -7645,7 +7629,7 @@ green grapes hanging over gold dishes. The dinner service was of white porcelain with heliotrope border, the glass of iridescent crystal. The furnishing of the Venetian parlour, the rich carvings, the suits of armour, -the antique chairs were all mediæval; the dinner was +the antique chairs were all mediæval; the dinner was modern and American:—</p> <table summary="Modern American Dinner"> @@ -7653,7 +7637,7 @@ modern and American:—</p> <td class="tdc" colspan="3">Oysters.</td> </tr> <tr> -<td class="tdc" colspan="3">Soup, <i>Consommé Royale</i>.</td> +<td class="tdc" colspan="3">Soup, <i>Consommé Royale</i>.</td> </tr> <tr> <td class="tdc" colspan="3">Fish:</td> @@ -7668,12 +7652,12 @@ modern and American:—</p> <td class="tdc" colspan="3">Boned capon.</td> </tr> <tr> -<td class="tdc" colspan="3"><i>Entrées</i>:</td> +<td class="tdc" colspan="3"><i>Entrées</i>:</td> </tr> <tr> -<td>Sweetbreads, <i>braisé</i>,</td> +<td>Sweetbreads, <i>braisé</i>,</td> <td> </td> -<td class="tdc">Quails, <i>à la Perigord</i>.</td> +<td class="tdc">Quails, <i>à la Perigord</i>.</td> </tr> <tr> <td class="tdc" colspan="3"><i>Sorbet au kirsch</i>.</td> @@ -7741,7 +7725,7 @@ OF EUROPE.</h2> <p>Drink less austere best suits the empty veins.</p> </div> <div class="stanza"> -<p> · · · · · ·</p> +<p> · · · · · ·</p> </div> <div class="stanza"> <p>Shell fish afford a lubricating slime!</p> @@ -7755,7 +7739,7 @@ OF EUROPE.</h2> <p>To sweep the fish stalls is mere show at best</p> </div> <div class="stanza"> -<p> · · · · · ·</p> +<p> · · · · · ·</p> </div> <div class="stanza"> <p>Unless you know how each thing should be drest.</p> @@ -7829,7 +7813,7 @@ not find it so. I remember a certain leg of lamb with beans which had a slight taste of onions, but that is all. They have learned, as the French have, that the onion is to cookery what accent is to speech. It should -not be <i>trop prononcée</i>. The lamb and pistachio nuts of +not be <i>trop prononcée</i>. The lamb and pistachio nuts of the Arabian Nights is often served and is delicious.</p> <p>They give you in an Italian country house for breakfast, @@ -7848,7 +7832,7 @@ some great house is seen eating a dish of frogs, which are, however, so well cooked that they send up an appetizing fragrance more like a stew of crabs than anything else. One sees sometimes a massive ancient house, -towering up in mediæval grandeur, with shafts of marble, +towering up in mediæval grandeur, with shafts of marble, and columns of porphyry, lonely, desolate, and beautiful, infinitely impressive, infinitely grand. Some member of a once illustrious family lives within these ruined walls, @@ -8057,7 +8041,7 @@ olive, and many other delicacies could be mentioned which aid digestion, and make the plainest table inexpensively luxurious. The Italians have all sorts of delicate vegetables preserved in bottles, mixed and ready -for use in a <i>jardinière</i> dressing; also the best of cheeses, +for use in a <i>jardinière</i> dressing; also the best of cheeses, <i>gargonzala</i>, and of course the truffle, which they know how to cook so well.</p> @@ -8071,7 +8055,7 @@ Algiers, and which France has enamelled on her fabulous and many-coloured shield. Algiers has become not only a winter watering-place, high in favour with the traveller, but it is a great wine-growing country. The official -statement of Lieut. Col. Sir R. L. Playfair, her Majesty's +statement of Lieut. Col. Sir R. L. Playfair, her Majesty's consul-general, may be read with interest, dated 1889:</p> <p>"Viticulture in Algeria, was in 1778 in its infancy; @@ -8088,7 +8072,7 @@ and industry. He cultivates the following varieties: the Mourvedie, of a red colour resembling Burgundy, Cariguan, giving a wine good, dark, and rough, Alicante or <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_194" id="Page_194">194</a></span> -Grenache, Petit Bouschet, Cabernot and Côt, a Burgundy, +Grenache, Petit Bouschet, Cabernot and Côt, a Burgundy, Perian Lyra, Aramen, and St. Saux.</p> <p>Chasselas succeeds well; the grapes are exported to @@ -8113,7 +8097,7 @@ rather stronger and fuller than that of France or Germany, and is much used to give additional value to the thinner qualities of Rhine wine.</p> -<p>The cellars of Château Hydra, are now probably the +<p>The cellars of Château Hydra, are now probably the best in the colony. They are excavated in the soft rock here incorrectly called tufa, in reality an aggregation of minutely pulverized shells; it is soft and sandy, and @@ -8128,7 +8112,7 @@ of wine.</p> <p>Mr. Eyre Ledyard's vineyards and cellars of the <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_195" id="Page_195">195</a></span> -Chateau Hydra estate are now farmed by the <i>Société +Chateau Hydra estate are now farmed by the <i>Société Anonyme Viticole et Vinicole d'Hydra</i>, of which Mr. Ledyard is chairman. These wines have been so successfully shipped to England and other countries that the @@ -8148,9 +8132,9 @@ Nights, and none is more poetic than the names and the story of these delicious wines.</p> <p>The Greek wines are well spoken of in Europe: Santorin, -and Zante, and St. Elié, and Corinth, and Mount +and Zante, and St. Elié, and Corinth, and Mount Hymettus, Vino Santo, and Cyprus, while from Magyar -vineyards come Visontaè, Badescony, Dioszeg, Bakator, +vineyards come Visontaè, Badescony, Dioszeg, Bakator, Rust, Szamorodni, Oedenburger, Ofner, and Tokay.</p> <p>The Hungarian wines are very heady. He must be a @@ -8326,11 +8310,11 @@ feasts and festivals are kept then, generally by moonlight. When a Chinaman is poor he can live on a farthing's worth of rice a day; when he gets rich he becomes the most luxurious of sybarites, indulges freely in the most -<i>recherché</i> delicacies of the table, and becomes, like any +<i>recherché</i> delicacies of the table, and becomes, like any Roman voluptuary, corpulent and phlegmatic. A lady thus describes a Chinese dinner:—</p> -<p>"The hour was eleven <span class="s08">A. M.</span>, the <i>locale</i> a boat. Having +<p>"The hour was eleven <span class="s08">A. M.</span>, the <i>locale</i> a boat. Having heard much of the obnoxious stuff I was to eat, I <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_200" id="Page_200">200</a></span> adopted the prescription of a friend. 'Eat very little of @@ -8342,7 +8326,7 @@ nests brought from Borneo, costing nearly a guinea a mouthful, fricassee of poodle, a little dog almost a pig; the fish of the conch-shell, a substance like wax or india rubber, which you might masticate but never mash; peacock's -liver, very fine and <i>recherché</i>; putrid eggs, nevertheless +liver, very fine and <i>recherché</i>; putrid eggs, nevertheless very good; rice, of course, salted shrimps, baked almonds, cabbage in a variety of forms, green ginger, stewed fungi, fresh fish of a dozen kinds, onions <i>ad libitum</i>, @@ -8417,7 +8401,7 @@ venison, wild-boar, sea-nettles. In England, in 1272, the hostess offered strange dishes: mallards, herons, swans, crane, and peacock. The peacock was, of old, a right royal bird which figured splendidly at the -banquets of the great, and this is how the mediæval +banquets of the great, and this is how the mediæval cooks dished up the dainty:—</p> <p>"Flay off the skin, with the feathers, tail, neck, and @@ -8553,7 +8537,7 @@ Hogarth in his wonderful pictures has held the mirror up to society to show how general was the shame, how terrible the curse.</p> -<p>In Germany the <i>Baierisch bier</i>, drunk out of <i>biergläschen</i> +<p>In Germany the <i>Baierisch bier</i>, drunk out of <i>biergläschen</i> ornamented as they are with engraved wreaths, "<i>Zum Andenken</i>," "<i>Aus Freundschaft</i>," and other little bits of national harmless sentiment, has come down from @@ -8720,7 +8704,7 @@ people, and are desperately fond of bargaining. They are also, however, most interesting. Their taste for art is vastly more developed than that of either the Swedes or the Norwegians. A Danish parlour-maid will arrange -the <i>bric-à-brac</i> and stand and look at it. To go higher in +the <i>bric-à -brac</i> and stand and look at it. To go higher in their home history, they are making great painters. As <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_210" id="Page_210">210</a></span> servants they are hardly known enough amongst us to be @@ -9059,7 +9043,7 @@ root of the tree which puzzles us.</p> <p>We may make up our minds that no longer will the American girl go out to service. It is a thousand pities that she will not. It is not ignoble to do household -work well. The châtelaines of the Middle Ages cooked +work well. The châtelaines of the Middle Ages cooked and served the meals with their own fair hands. Training-schools are greatly needed; we should follow the nurses' training-school.</p> @@ -9182,8 +9166,8 @@ Victoria, was denied the title prodigally showered on singers, dancers, and comedians, whose only quality, not requiring the microscope to discern, is vanity."</p> -<p>Ude was the most eccentric of cooks. He was <i>maître -d'hôtel</i> to the Duke of York, who delighted in his anecdotes +<p>Ude was the most eccentric of cooks. He was <i>maître +d'hôtel</i> to the Duke of York, who delighted in his anecdotes and mimicry. In his book, which he claims is the only work which gives due dignity to the great art, he says: "The chief fault in all great peoples' cooks is @@ -9221,25 +9205,25 @@ sixpence for the sauce. He refuses to pay sixpence for the sauce. The imbecile! He seems to think red mullets come out of the sea with my sauce in their pockets."</p> -<p>Carême, one of the greatest of French cooks, became +<p>Carême, one of the greatest of French cooks, became eminent by inventing a sauce for fast-days. He then devoted several years to the science of roasting in all its branches. He studied design and elegance under -Robert Lainé. His career was one of victory after victory. +Robert Lainé. His career was one of victory after victory. He nurtured the Emperor Alexander, kept alive Talleyrand through "that long disease, his life," fostered Lord Londonderry, and delighted the Princess Belgratine. A salary of a thousand pounds a year induced him to become <i>chef</i> to the Regent; but he left Carlton House, he would return to France. The Regent was -inconsolable, but Carême was implacable. "No," said +inconsolable, but Carême was implacable. "No," said the true patriot, "my soul is French, and I can only -exist in France." Carême, therefore, overcome by his +exist in France." Carême, therefore, overcome by his feelings, accepted an unprecedented salary from Baron Rothschild and settled in Paris.</p> <p>Lady Morgan, dining at the Baron's villa in 1830, has -left us a sketch of a dinner by Carême which is so well +left us a sketch of a dinner by Carême which is so well done that, although I have already alluded to it, I will copy <i>verbatim</i>: "It was a very sultry evening, but the Baron's dining-room stood apart from the house and @@ -9257,8 +9241,8 @@ in silver, with chemical precision. Every meat presented its own aroma,"—it was not cooked in a gas stove,—"every vegetable its own shade of verdure. The mayonnaise was fixed in ice, like Ninon's description -of Sevigné's heart, '<i>une citronille frité à la neige</i>.' -The tempered chill of the <i>plombière</i> which held the +of Sevigné's heart, '<i>une citronille frité à la neige</i>.' +The tempered chill of the <i>plombière</i> which held the place of the eternal <i>fondus</i> and <i>soufflets</i> of our English tables, anticipated and broke the stronger shock of the exquisite avalanche, which, with the hue and odour of @@ -9267,26 +9251,26 @@ every coarser flavour. With less genius than went to the composition of that dinner, men have written epic poems."</p> -<p>Comparing Carême with the great Beauvilliers, the +<p>Comparing Carême with the great Beauvilliers, the greatest restaurant cook in Paris from 1782 to 1815, a great authority in the matter says: "There was more <i>aplomb</i> in the touch of Beauvilliers, more curious felicity -in Carême's. Beauvilliers was great in an <i>entrée</i>, Carême +in Carême's. Beauvilliers was great in an <i>entrée</i>, Carême sublime in an <i>entremet</i>; we should put Beauvilliers -against the world for a <i>rôti</i>, but should wish Carême to +against the world for a <i>rôti</i>, but should wish Carême to prepare the sauce were we under the necessity of eating an elephant or our great grandfather."</p> -<p>Vatel was the great Condé's cook who killed himself -because the turbot did not arrive. Madame de Sevigné +<p>Vatel was the great Condé's cook who killed himself +because the turbot did not arrive. Madame de Sevigné relates the event with her usual clearness. Louis XIV. -had long promised a visit to the great Condé at Chantilly, +had long promised a visit to the great Condé at Chantilly, the very estate which the Duc d'Aumale has so recently given back to France, but postponed it from <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_225" id="Page_225">225</a></span> -time to time fearing to cause Condé trouble by the +time to time fearing to cause Condé trouble by the sudden influx of a gay and numerous retinue. The old -château had become a trifle dull and a trifle mouldy, but +château had become a trifle dull and a trifle mouldy, but it got itself brushed up. Vatel was cook, and his first mortification was that the roast was wanting at several tables. It seemed to him that his great master the captain @@ -9352,8 +9336,8 @@ nothing; that is what hurt my feelings."</p> of dying like Vatel.</p> <p>Going last winter to see <i>le Bourgeoise Gentilhomme</i> at -the Comédie Française, I was struck with the novelty -of the dinner served by this hero of Molière's who is +the Comédie Française, I was struck with the novelty +of the dinner served by this hero of Molière's who is so anxious to get rid of his money. All the dishes were brought in by little fellows dressed as cooks, who danced to the minuet.</p> @@ -9368,17 +9352,17 @@ circled gravely, the stews blended their essences to solemn anthems. The ears were gratified as the nose was regaled; this was an idea worthy of Apecius."</p> -<p>So Molière, true to the spirit of his time, paid this +<p>So Molière, true to the spirit of his time, paid this compliment to the Marquis.</p> -<p>Béchamel was cook to Louis XIV., and invented a +<p>Béchamel was cook to Louis XIV., and invented a famous sauce.</p> <p>Durand, who was cook to the great Napoleon, has left a curious record of his tempestuous eating. Francatelli succeeded Ude in England, was the <i>chef</i> at Chesterfield House, at Lord Kinnaird's, and at the Melton Club. -He held the post of <i>maître d'hôtel</i> for a while but was +He held the post of <i>maître d'hôtel</i> for a while but was dismissed by a cabal.</p> <p>The gay writer from whose pages we have gathered @@ -9419,8 +9403,8 @@ which fall from the rich man's table. It is a worthy custom.</p> <p>While studying the names of these great men like -Ude and Carême, Vatel and Francatelli, what shades of -dead <i>pâtissiers</i>, spirits of extinct <i>confiseurs</i>, rise around +Ude and Carême, Vatel and Francatelli, what shades of +dead <i>pâtissiers</i>, spirits of extinct <i>confiseurs</i>, rise around us in savoury streams and revive for us the past of gastronomic pleasure! Many a Frenchman will tell you of the iced meringues of the Palais Royal and the <i>salades de @@ -9430,7 +9414,7 @@ handed at the moulding of pastry, are apt to exceed all nations in this delicate, delicious <i>entremet</i>. The <i>vol au vent de volaille</i>, or chicken pie, with its delicate filling of chicken, mushroom, truffles, and its enveloping pastry, -is never better than at the Grand Hôtel at Aix les Bains, +is never better than at the Grand Hôtel at Aix les Bains, where one finds the perfection of good eating. "Aix les Bains," says a resident physician, "lies half-way between Paris and Rome, with its famous curative baths to @@ -9445,7 +9429,7 @@ cream and spun sugar. Their politeness, their brag, their accomplishments, their love of the external, all lead to such dainties. It was observed even so long ago as 1815, when the allies were in Paris, that the fifteen thousand -<i>pâtés</i> which Madame Felix sold daily in the <i>Passage +<i>pâtés</i> which Madame Felix sold daily in the <i>Passage des Panoramas</i> were beginning to affect the foreign bayonets; and no doubt the German invasion may have been checked by the same dulcet influence.</p> @@ -9460,14 +9444,14 @@ with madeira, currants, raisins, and potted cream.</p> <p>French jellies are rather monotonous as to flavour, but they look very handsome on a supper-table. A -<i>macédoine</i> is a delicious variety of dainty, and worthy of +<i>macédoine</i> is a delicious variety of dainty, and worthy of the French nation. It is wine jelly frozen in a mould with grapes, strawberries, green-gages, cherries, apricots, or pineapple, or more economically with slices of pears and apples boiled in syrup coloured with carmine, saffron, or cochineal, the flavour aided by angelica or brandied cherries. An invention of Ude and one which we could -copy here is jelly <i>au miroton de pêche</i>:—</p> +copy here is jelly <i>au miroton de pêche</i>:—</p> <div class="blockquot"> <p>Get half a dozen peaches, peel them carefully and boil @@ -9528,7 +9512,7 @@ immortalizes them thus:—</p> <p>In the <i>Almanach de Gourmands</i> there appeared a philosophical treatise on pastry and pastry cooks, probably <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_231" id="Page_231">231</a></span> -by the learned Giedeaud de la Reynière himself. +by the learned Giedeaud de la Reynière himself. Pastry, he says, is to cooking what rhetorical metaphors are to oratory,—life and ornament. A speech without metaphors, a dinner without pastry, are alike insipid; @@ -9581,7 +9565,7 @@ perilous sweet stuff but a devilled biscuit at ten o'clock.</p> </div> </div> -<p>A slice of <i>pâté de foie gras</i>, olives stuffed with anchovy, +<p>A slice of <i>pâté de foie gras</i>, olives stuffed with anchovy, broiled bones, anchovy on toast, Welsh rarebit, devilled biscuit, devilled turkey-legs, devilled kidneys, <i>caviare</i>, devilled crabs, soft-shell crabs, shrimp salad, sardines on @@ -9746,13 +9730,13 @@ Above all things have an open fireplace in the bedroom. Abolish stoves from that sacred precinct. Use wood for fuel if possible; if not, the softest of cannel-coal.</p> -<p>Have brass rods placed, on which to hang portières in -winter. Portières and curtains may be cheaply made of +<p>Have brass rods placed, on which to hang portières in +winter. Portières and curtains may be cheaply made of ingrain carpet embroidered; or of Turkish or Indian stuffs; splendid Delhi pulgaries, a mass of gold silk embroidered, with bits of looking-glass worked in; of velvet; camel's-hair shawls; satin, chintz, or cretonne. Costly -thy portières as thy purse can buy; nothing is so pretty +thy portières as thy purse can buy; nothing is so pretty and so ornamental.</p> <p>Glazed chintzes may be hung at the windows, without @@ -9760,7 +9744,7 @@ lining, as the light shines through the flowers, making a good effect. Chenille curtains of soft rich colours are appropriate for the modern bedroom. Madras muslin curtains will do for the windows, but are not heavy -enough for portières.</p> +enough for portières.</p> <p>There are hangings made of willow bamboo, which can be looped back, or left hanging, which give a window @@ -10021,7 +10005,7 @@ Her house looks cheerful and cultivated.</p> A state apartment in an old English house can be inexpressibly dreary. High ceilings, stiff old girandoles, pictures of ancestors, miles of mirrors, and the -Laocoön or other specimens of Grecian art, which no +Laocoön or other specimens of Grecian art, which no one cares for except in the Vatican, and the ceramic and historical horrors of some old collector, who had no taste,—are enough to frighten a visitor. But when a @@ -10320,7 +10304,7 @@ remain long as ornaments.</p> the ice cream, the good home-made cake, coffee, and tea are within the reach of every country housekeeper, and are in their way unrivalled. Of course, if she wishes -she can add chicken salad, boned turkey, <i>pâté de foie +she can add chicken salad, boned turkey, <i>pâté de foie gras</i>, and punch, hot or cold.</p> <p>If it is in winter, the coachmen outside must not be @@ -10392,7 +10376,7 @@ worst thing in the world, but to make it the best the bread should be cut very thin, the butter, which must be as fresh as a cowslip, should be spread with deft fingers, then a slice of ham as thin as a wafer with not -too much fat must be laid between, with a <i>soupçon</i> of +too much fat must be laid between, with a <i>soupçon</i> of mustard. The prepared ham which comes in cans is excellent for making sandwiches. Cheese sandwiches, substituting a thin slice of American fresh cheese for the @@ -10449,7 +10433,7 @@ and refreshing. Ginger ale is excellent and cheap and compact. "Champagne," says Walter Besant in his novel "By Celia's Arbour" is a wine as Catholic as the Athanasian Creed, because it goes well with chicken and -with the more elaborate <i>pâté de foie gras</i>.</p> +with the more elaborate <i>pâté de foie gras</i>.</p> <p>Some men prefer sherry with their lunch, some take beer. If you have room and a plentiful cellar, take all @@ -10497,7 +10481,7 @@ cannot put our ears too close to the confessional of Nature. She has always a new secret to tell us, and from the most artificial society to that which is primitive and rustic, they always carry the same charm. It is -the Antæus trying to get back to Mother Earth, who +the Antæus trying to get back to Mother Earth, who strengthens him.</p> <p>In packing a lunch for a fisherman, or a hunter, the @@ -10542,7 +10526,7 @@ top of the basket, and the apple in the bottom of the carriage.</p> <p>If you will take salad, and will not be taught by experience, -make a perfect <i>jardinière</i> of all the cold vegetables, +make a perfect <i>jardinière</i> of all the cold vegetables, green peas, beans, and cauliflower, green peppers, cucumbers, and cold potatoes, and take this mixture dry to the picnic. Have your mayonnaise in a bottle, and @@ -10556,7 +10540,7 @@ gown.</p> <p>As for the apple pie, that is taken at the risk of the owner. It had better be left at home for tea.</p> -<p>Of course, <i>pâté de foie gras</i>, sandwiches, boned turkey, +<p>Of course, <i>pâté de foie gras</i>, sandwiches, boned turkey, jellied tongue, the various cold birds, as partridges, quails, pheasant, and chicken, and raw oysters, can be taken to a very elaborate picnic near a large town. Salmon @@ -10758,11 +10742,11 @@ giving left hands to their partners. At the same time the outer couples waltz half round to opposite places. At another signal the inner couples waltz entirely round, and finish facing outward. At the same time the outer -couples <i>chassent croisé</i> and turn at corners with right +couples <i>chassent croisé</i> and turn at corners with right hands, then <i>dechassent</i> and turn partners with left hands. -Valse <i>générale</i> with <i>vis à vis</i>.</p> +Valse <i>générale</i> with <i>vis à vis</i>.</p> -<p><i>La Cavalier Trompé</i> is another favourite figure. Five +<p><i>La Cavalier Trompé</i> is another favourite figure. Five or six couples perform a <i>tour de valse</i>. They afterwards place themselves in ranks of two, one couple behind the other. The lady of the first gentleman leaves him and @@ -11044,7 +11028,7 @@ through the rings are run over three pulleys on the upper piece of the frame. It is well for all young managers of garret theatres to get up one of these curtains, even with the help of an upholsterer, as the other draw-curtain -never works so securely, and often hurts the <i>dénouement</i> +never works so securely, and often hurts the <i>dénouement</i> of the play. When the drop curtain above described is used, one person holds all the strings, and it pulls together.</p> @@ -11058,7 +11042,7 @@ and old finery will supply the fancy dresses.</p> Certain ambitious amateurs performed the opera of "Patience" in New York. It would have been a failure but for the musical talent of the two who took -the title <i>rôles</i>, and the diligent six weeks' training which +the title <i>rôles</i>, and the diligent six weeks' training which the players received at the hand of the principal actor in the real operetta. This seems very dear for the whistle, when one can go and hear the real tune. It is @@ -11100,7 +11084,7 @@ and time should be allowed for two dress rehearsals. It is a most excellent and advantageous discouragement, if it leads the actors to more study.</p> -<p>The stage manager has a difficult <i>rôle</i> to play, for he +<p>The stage manager has a difficult <i>rôle</i> to play, for he may discover that his actors must change parts. This nearly always excites a wounded self-love, and ill-feeling. But each one should bear in mind that he is only a part @@ -11179,7 +11163,7 @@ ago. These are all possible to a family in which are artistic boys and girls.</p> <p>The grotesque is lost in a tableau where there seems -to be an æsthetic need of the heroic, the refined, and the +to be an æsthetic need of the heroic, the refined, and the historic. A double action may be represented with good effect, and here can be used the coloured lights. Angels above, for instance, can well be in another colour than @@ -11210,8 +11194,8 @@ must not be worn with a Greek dress; classic sandals are easily made.</p> <p>It is an admirable practice to get up a play in French. -It helps to conquer the <i>délicatesse</i> of the language. The -French <i>répertoire</i> is very rich in easily acted plays, which +It helps to conquer the <i>délicatesse</i> of the language. The +French <i>répertoire</i> is very rich in easily acted plays, which any French teacher can recommend.</p> <p>Imitation Negro minstrels are funny, and apt to be @@ -12039,7 +12023,7 @@ Browning, Bret Harte, and Jean Ingelow.</p> <p>Therefore, there would be little embarrassment should we ask the members of the circle around the evening lamp to write a parody on "Evangeline," "Lady Clara -Vere de Vere," "Hervé Riel," or "The Heathen +Vere de Vere," "Hervé Riel," or "The Heathen Chinee." The result is amusing.</p> <p>Amongst games requiring memory and attention, we @@ -12284,7 +12268,7 @@ to the house? She is sure to bring good fortune!</p> <p>The French have, however, tabularized fortune-telling for us. Their peculiar ability in arranging ceremonials <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_306" id="Page_306">306</a></span> -and <i>fêtes</i>, and their undoubted genius for tactics and +and <i>fêtes</i>, and their undoubted genius for tactics and strategy, show that they might be able to foresee events. Their ingenuity, in all technical contrivances, is an additional testimony in the right direction, and we are @@ -12930,7 +12914,7 @@ of invitation is simply—</p> Thursday, from 3 to 6.</p> </div> -<p>and unless an R. S. V. P. is appended, no reply is expected. +<p>and unless an R. S. V. P. is appended, no reply is expected. These receptions are favourites with housekeepers, as they avoid the necessity of keeping the servants up at night.</p> @@ -12975,7 +12959,7 @@ There is no loss of caste in sending an invitation by post.</p> <p>Then comes the ball, or, as they always say in Europe, -the dance, which is the gayest of all things for the <i>débutante</i>. +the dance, which is the gayest of all things for the <i>débutante</i>. The popular form for an invitation to an evening party is as follows:—</p> @@ -12984,9 +12968,9 @@ party is as follows:—</p> Requests the pleasure of<br /> <span class="smcap">Mr.</span> and <span class="smcap">Mrs. Norton's</span> company<br /> on Tuesday evening, December 23, at 9 o'clock.<br /> -R. S. V. P.<span class="left65">Dancing.</span></p> +R. S. V. P.<span class="left65">Dancing.</span></p> </div> -<p>The card of the <i>débutante</i>, if the ball is given for one, +<p>The card of the <i>débutante</i>, if the ball is given for one, is enclosed.</p> <p>If a hostess gives her ball at some public place, like @@ -13046,7 +13030,7 @@ commemorates:—</p> <p class="i1">I took her down to supper.</p> </div> <div class="stanza"> -<p class="o1">"I gave her Pommery, <i>Côte d'Or</i>,</p> +<p class="o1">"I gave her Pommery, <i>Côte d'Or</i>,</p> <p class="i1">Which seethed in rosy bubbles;</p> <p>I called this fleeting life a bore,</p> <p class="i1">The world a sea of troubles."</p> @@ -13131,7 +13115,7 @@ or twelve—at which the guests arrive.</p> <span class="smcap">Mrs. Brown</span> at home Tuesday evening,</p> </div> <p>some sticklers for etiquette say that she should not put -R. S. V. P. on her card.</p> +R. S. V. P. on her card.</p> <p>If she wishes an answer, she should say,—</p> @@ -13141,7 +13125,7 @@ R. S. V. P. on her card.</p> requests the pleasure of<br /> <span class="smcap">Mr.</span> and <span class="smcap">Mrs. Campbell's</span> company.</p> -<p>R. S. V. P.</p> +<p>R. S. V. P.</p> </div> <p>Perhaps the latter is better form. It is more respectful. @@ -13207,7 +13191,7 @@ German. An ambassadress of fifty would be very much astonished if the prince did not ask her to dance.</p> <p>The saltatory art is like the flight of a butterfly,—hard -to describe, impossible to follow. The <i>valse à +to describe, impossible to follow. The <i>valse à deux temps</i> keeps its precedence in Europe as the favourite measure, varied with galop, polka, and polka mazourka. We add, in America, Dancing in the Barn, @@ -13246,7 +13230,7 @@ creams, all crowded in, sweetbreads and green peas, internal rat gnawing as one reads of them,—the champagne, the punch, the fine glass, choice china, the drapery of German looms, the Queen Anne silver, -the porcelain of Sèvres and Dresden, the beauty of +the porcelain of Sèvres and Dresden, the beauty of the women, the smart dressing, make the ball supper an elegant, an amazing, a princely sort of sight, saving that princes do not give such feasts,—only @@ -13491,7 +13475,7 @@ tied.</p> <p>"This train waits twenty minutes for divorces" is a joke founded on fact.</p> -<p>"What do <i>divorcées</i> do with their wedding presents?" +<p>"What do <i>divorcées</i> do with their wedding presents?" has been a favourite conundrum of late, especially with those sent by the friends of the husband.</p> @@ -13542,7 +13526,7 @@ like a cloud. <p>"Then the entrance to the church, two by two, with this white cloud always at their head, floating, light, gleaming; -the organ, the verger, the sermon of the <i>curé</i>, the tapers +the organ, the verger, the sermon of the <i>curé</i>, the tapers twinkling like jewels, the spring toilets, and all the world in the sacristie—the little white cloud lost, engulfed, surrounded, embraced, while the groom shook @@ -13551,21 +13535,21 @@ assembled in his honour; and the grand swell of the organ at the end, more solemn because the doors of the church were wide open so that the whole quarter took part in the family ceremony; the noises of the street as -the cortège passed out, the exclamations of the lookers-on,—a +the cortège passed out, the exclamations of the lookers-on,—a burnisher in a lustring apron crying aloud, 'The groom is not handsome, but the bride is stunning,'—all this is what makes one proud when he is a bridegroom.</p> <p>"Then the breakfast at the works, in a room ornamented with hangings and flowers; the stroll in the Bois, a concession -to the bride's mother, Madame Chèbe, who in +to the bride's mother, Madame Chèbe, who in her position as a Parisian <i>bourgeoise</i> would not have considered her daughter married without the round of the lake and a visit to the cascade; then the return for dinner just as the lights were appearing on the Boulevard, where every one turned to see the wedding party, a true, well-appointed party, as it passed in a procession of liveried -carriages to the very steps of the Café Vefour.</p> +carriages to the very steps of the Café Vefour.</p> <p>"It was all like a dream.</p> @@ -13595,7 +13579,7 @@ white cloud.</p> charming face seemed more clear and sweet under the carefully arranged bridal wreath.</p> -<p>"By the side of Risler sat Madame Chèbe, the mother +<p>"By the side of Risler sat Madame Chèbe, the mother of the bride, who shone and glistened in a dress of green satin gleaming like a shield. Since morning all the thoughts of the good woman had been as brilliant as her @@ -13696,10 +13680,10 @@ good eating, and put out the kitchen fires for a season.</p> consulted with her cook. Many cookery books have the qualification "after Queen Anne's fashion."</p> -<p>Under the Regent Orléans, a princely prince in spite +<p>Under the Regent Orléans, a princely prince in spite <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_342" id="Page_342">342</a></span> of his faults, the art of good eating and entertaining was -revived; and he has left a reputation for <i>piqués</i> of superlative +revived; and he has left a reputation for <i>piqués</i> of superlative delicacy, <i>matelots</i> of tempting quality, and turkeys superbly stuffed.</p> @@ -13733,7 +13717,7 @@ really began then, although the art of canning may safely be said to belong to our own much later time.</p> <p>In the year 1740 a dinner was served in this order: -Soup, followed by the <i>bouilli</i>, an <i>entrée</i> of veal cooked +Soup, followed by the <i>bouilli</i>, an <i>entrée</i> of veal cooked in its own gravy, as a side dish. Second course: A <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_343" id="Page_343">343</a></span> turkey, a dish of vegetables, a salad, and sometimes a @@ -13744,13 +13728,13 @@ but cherry brandy or some liqueur was passed.</p> <p>Louis XVIII., who grew to be an immensely fat man, was a remarkable gastronome. Let any one read Victor -Hugo's "Les Misérables," and an account of his reign, to +Hugo's "Les Misérables," and an account of his reign, to get an idea of this magnificent entertainer. His most -famous <i>maître d'hôtel</i> was the Duc d'Escars. When he +famous <i>maître d'hôtel</i> was the Duc d'Escars. When he and his royal master were closeted together to meditate a dish, the ministers of state were kept waiting in the antechamber, and the next day an official announcement -was made, "Monsieur le Duc d'Escars a travaillé dans +was made, "Monsieur le Duc d'Escars a travaillé dans le cabinet."</p> <p>How strangely would it affect the American people if @@ -13758,7 +13742,7 @@ President Harrison kept them waiting for his signature because he was discussing terrapin and Madeira sauce with his <i>chef</i>.</p> -<p>The king had invented the <i>truffles à la purée d'ortolans</i>, +<p>The king had invented the <i>truffles à la purée d'ortolans</i>, and invariably prepared it himself, assisted by the duke. On one occasion they jointly composed a dish of more than ordinary dimensions, and duly consumed @@ -13792,24 +13776,24 @@ welcome men who had dined at his house twenty years before. In this he was like General Grant and the Prince of Wales. It is a very popular faculty.</p> -<p>Beauvilliers, Méot, Robert, Rose Legacque, the Brothers +<p>Beauvilliers, Méot, Robert, Rose Legacque, the Brothers Very, Hennevan, and Baleine, are the noble army of argonauts in discovering the Parisian restaurant; or rather, they founded it.</p> -<p>The Brothers Very, and the Trois Frères Prevenceaux, +<p>The Brothers Very, and the Trois Frères Prevenceaux, both in the Palais Royal, are still great names to compete with. When the allied monarchs held Paris, in 1814, the Brothers Very supplied their table for a daily charge of one hundred and twenty pounds, not including -wine, and in Père-la-Chaise a magnificent monument is +wine, and in Père-la-Chaise a magnificent monument is erected to one of them, declaring that his "whole life was consecrated to the useful arts," as it doubtless was.</p> <p>From that day until 1890, what an advance there has been. There is now a restaurant in nearly every street in Paris, where one can get a good dinner. What a -crowd of them in the Champs Élysées and out near the +crowd of them in the Champs Élysées and out near the Bois.</p> <p>A Parisian dinner is thoroughly cosmopolitan, and the @@ -14008,7 +13992,7 @@ Queen does all the social work, and she does it admirably.</p> <p>What a company that was,—all the Roman nobility, -the diplomatic corps, the visitors to Rome, S. P. Q. R., +the diplomatic corps, the visitors to Rome, S. P. Q. R., the senate and the Roman people. After the dancing, supper was announced. Royalty does not sup in public in Rome, as in England. The difference in etiquette is @@ -14058,7 +14042,7 @@ Germany.</p> <p>The King of Italy made this occasion of his brother's marriage, an open door for returning to the old Italian customs of past centuries, in the art of entertaining. -The city of Turin was <i>en fête</i> for the week. At booths, +The city of Turin was <i>en fête</i> for the week. At booths, in the open air, strolling companies were playing opera, tragedy, burlesque, and farce. At the King's charge, the streets were lined with gay decorations of pink and @@ -14066,7 +14050,7 @@ white silk, banners and escutcheons; music was heard everywhere, and at evening brilliant illuminations followed the river.</p> -<p>When the royal cortège appeared on their way to a +<p>When the royal cortège appeared on their way to a public square they were preceded by six hundred young cavaliers in the dress of Prince Eugene, powdered hair, bright red and blue coats, each detachment @@ -14083,7 +14067,7 @@ the Queen's head, and finally, as the rosy light faded away, a gun from the fortress sounded the hour of departure. The glittering cavalcade drove back to the palace, and we foreigners knew that we had seen a real, -mediæval Italian festa. +mediæval Italian festa. <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_353" id="Page_353">353</a></span></p> <h2>ENTERTAINING AT EASTER.</h2> @@ -14141,8 +14125,8 @@ observe Lent, for it is the fashion."</p> <p>Certainly, the little dinners of Lent, in fashionable society, are amongst the most agreeable of all entertainments. -The <i>crème d'écrevisse</i>, the oyster and clam soups, -the newly arrived shad, the codfish <i>à la royale</i> and other +The <i>crème d'écrevisse</i>, the oyster and clam soups, +the newly arrived shad, the codfish <i>à la royale</i> and other tempting dainties are very good, and the dinner being small, and at eight o'clock, there is before it a long twilight for the drive in the Park.</p> @@ -14170,7 +14154,7 @@ caudle parties, its ladies' lunches, its Meadow Brook hunt, its asparagus parties, and the chickens of gayety which are hatched out of Easter eggs. It is a great day for the confectioner. In Paris, that city full of gold and -misery, the splendour and luxury of the Easter egg <i>bonbonnière</i> +misery, the splendour and luxury of the Easter egg <i>bonbonnière</i> is fabulous. A few years since a Paris house furnished an Easter egg for a Spanish infanta, which cost eight hundred pounds sterling.</p> @@ -14187,7 +14171,7 @@ canvas-back duck and the American opera. Everything should be fresh. The ice-cream man devises allegorical allusions in his forms, and there are white dinners for young brides, and roseate dinners -for <i>débutantes</i>.</p> +for <i>débutantes</i>.</p> <p>For a gorgeous ladies' lunch, behold a <i>menu</i>. This is for Easter Monday:—</p> @@ -14198,11 +14182,11 @@ for Easter Monday:—</p> </tr> <tr> <td>Chablis.</td> -<td class="tdc">Beef tea or <i>consommé</i> in cups.</td> +<td class="tdc">Beef tea or <i>consommé</i> in cups.</td> <td> </td> </tr> <tr> -<td class="tdc" colspan="2"><i>Côtelettes de cervelles à la cardinal.</i></td> +<td class="tdc" colspan="2"><i>Côtelettes de cervelles à la cardinal.</i></td> <td class="tdr">Cucumbers.</td> </tr> <tr> @@ -14215,7 +14199,7 @@ for Easter Monday:—</p> <td> </td> </tr> <tr> -<td colspan="3" class="tdc">Sweetbread <i>à la Richelieu</i>.</td> +<td colspan="3" class="tdc">Sweetbread <i>à la Richelieu</i>.</td> </tr> <tr> <td colspan="3" class="tdc">Asparagus, Hollandaise sauce.</td> @@ -14226,7 +14210,7 @@ for Easter Monday:—</p> <td> </td> </tr> <tr> -<td colspan="3" class="tdc"><i>Pâté de foie gras.</i></td> +<td colspan="3" class="tdc"><i>Pâté de foie gras.</i></td> </tr> <tr> <td colspan="3" class="tdc">Roast snipe.</td> @@ -14282,7 +14266,7 @@ Ellicott Square.</p> <p>Many wealthy Roman Catholics have private chapels where the ceremony may be performed earlier.</p> -<p>Presents are sent to the mamma, of flowers and bonbonnières +<p>Presents are sent to the mamma, of flowers and bonbonnières shaped like an altar, a cradle, a powder-box; and there may be gold tea-scoops, pap-spoons and a caudle-cup. Gifts of old Dutch silver and the inevitable @@ -14293,7 +14277,7 @@ and mamma on these auspicious occasions.</p> raisins, spices, and rum, all boiled together for several days until it becomes a jelly gruel. It is very much sweetened, and is served hot in cups. The caudle-cup -designed by Albrecht Dürer for some member of the +designed by Albrecht Dürer for some member of the family of Maximilian is still shown. Caudle cards are very often stamped with a cameo resemblance of these cups, and the invitation reads:—</p> @@ -14317,7 +14301,7 @@ of bread and butter, and little cakes ready for those ladies who prefer tea. Caudle is sometimes added to the teas of a winter afternoon, by the remnants of old Dutch families, even when there is no little master as a -<i>raison d'être</i>, and delicious it is.</p> +<i>raison d'être</i>, and delicious it is.</p> <p>There is a pretty account of the marriage of Marguerite of Austria with Philibert, the handsome Duke of @@ -14331,7 +14315,7 @@ to her. It was Easter Monday, and high and low danced together on the green. The old men drew their bows on a barrel filled with wine, and when one succeeded in planting his arrow firmly in it he was privileged -to drink as much as he pleased <i>jusqu'à merci</i>.</p> +to drink as much as he pleased <i>jusqu'à merci</i>.</p> <p>A hundred eggs were scattered in a level place, covered with sand, and a lad and lass, holding each @@ -14344,7 +14328,7 @@ Three couples had already tried it unsuccessfully and shouts of laughter derided their attempts, when the sound of a horn was heard, and Philibert of Savoy, radiant with youth and happiness, appeared on the scene. -He bent his knees before the noble <i>châtelaine</i> and besought +He bent his knees before the noble <i>châtelaine</i> and besought her hospitality. He proposed to her to try the egg fortune. She accepted. Their grace and beauty charmed the lookers-on and they succeeded, without a @@ -14403,7 +14387,7 @@ music whilst catching the frail eggs that they might not break.</p> <p>In Germany, where means are more limited than in -France, the Easter egg <i>bonbonnière</i> is rare. There are +France, the Easter egg <i>bonbonnière</i> is rare. There are none of the eight-hundred-pound kind, which was made of enamel, and which on its inside had engraved the gospel for the day, while by an ingenious mechanism a @@ -14504,7 +14488,7 @@ occupied her imagination vividly, and became a means of instruction. Playing dolls was for her an introduction to ethics and a knowledge of the world.</p> -<p>"Catherine's court was a succession of continual <i>fêtes</i>. +<p>"Catherine's court was a succession of continual <i>fêtes</i>. The fairy pantomimes performed at the Hermitage were the first to strike the imagination of the child, who as yet could not relish the tragedies of Voltaire. She composed @@ -14936,7 +14920,7 @@ ale. It has two mouths, and as it is lifted its weight requires both hands.</p> <p>In England, Christmas and New Year's still keep some -of the mediæval village customs. Men go about in +of the mediæval village customs. Men go about in <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_375" id="Page_375">375</a></span> motley, imitating quacks and fortune-tellers, and there is much noise and tooting of horns. These mummers are @@ -15124,7 +15108,7 @@ their delightful fragrance, their splendid colour renders the palace more beautiful, and the humble house attractive. Before Twelfth Night, January 6, they must all be taken down. The festivities of this great day were -much celebrated in mediæval times, and the picture by +much celebrated in mediæval times, and the picture by Rubens, "The King Drinks," recalls the splendour of these feasts. It is called Kings' Day to commemorate the three kings of Orient, who paid their visit to the @@ -15368,7 +15352,7 @@ begs to know if she and Miss Montgomery will honor him with their company at a theatre party in the evening of April 3d, at the Chestnut Street Theatre.</p> -<p>R. S. V. P.<span class="left25">117 South Market Place.</span></p> +<p>R. S. V. P.<span class="left25">117 South Market Place.</span></p> </div> <p>This note should be sealed with wax, impressed with @@ -15468,11 +15452,11 @@ York, we must say, Whose dinner? What dinner? If we compare New York with Paris, we must say, What Paris? Shall we take the old Catholic aristocracy of the Faubourg St. Germain, or the upstart social spheres of -the Faubourg St. Honoré and the Chaussée d'Antin? +the Faubourg St. Honoré and the Chaussée d'Antin? Or shall we take <i>Tout Paris</i>, with its thousand ramifications, with its literary and artistic salons, the <i>Tout Paris mondain</i>, the <i>Tout Paris artiste</i>, the <i>Tout Paris des -Premières</i>, and all the rest of that heterogeneous crowd, +Premières</i>, and all the rest of that heterogeneous crowd, any fragment of which could swallow up the "four hundred," and all its works?</p> @@ -15502,7 +15486,7 @@ we are therefore bound to say the fairest, description of our women ever given to the world. It came at a time when the American girl was being served up by Ouida, the American senator by Anthony Trollope, and the -American <i>divorcée</i> by Victorien Sardou, in "L'Oncle +American <i>divorcée</i> by Victorien Sardou, in "L'Oncle Sam." There was never a moment when the American needed a friend more.</p> @@ -15657,7 +15641,7 @@ House of Lords, the House of Commons, in India, in Egypt, in the Soudan; there is a multiplicity of topics of conversation. No English stiffness exists at the dinner, and there is always present some literary man or -woman, some famous artist as the <i>pièce de resistance</i>; +woman, some famous artist as the <i>pièce de resistance</i>; such are the dinners of London.</p> <p>The luncheons are simpler, and here one is sure to @@ -15748,9 +15732,9 @@ wives have made their <i>salons</i> delightful, by bringing in men of culture and talent. On Sundays the Comtesse Potocka, who wears the best pearls in Paris, tries to revive the traditions of the Hotel Rambouillet, -in her beautiful hôtel in the Avenue Friedland. Her +in her beautiful hôtel in the Avenue Friedland. Her guests are De Maupassant, Ratisbonne, Coquelin, the -painter Bérand, and other men of wit. The Baroness +painter Bérand, and other men of wit. The Baroness de Poilly has a tendency to refine Bohemianism and is an indefatigable pleasure seeker. The only people she will not receive are the financiers and the heavy-witted. @@ -15760,7 +15744,7 @@ party, caste, or school." Carolus Duran, Alphonse Daudet, the painters, whoever is at the head of music, literature, or the dramatic art, is welcomed there.</p> -<p>The princes of the House of Orléans, are most prominent +<p>The princes of the House of Orléans, are most prominent in their attentions to people of talent. The Princesse Mathilde has a house in the Rue de Berri full of exquisite pictures by the old masters, and a few of @@ -15772,7 +15756,7 @@ diplomacy, art, and letters.</p> <p>But what simple dinners, as to meat and drink, do any of these great people give, compared to the dinners which are given constantly in New York,—dinners which -are banquets, but to which the young <i>littérateur</i> or +are banquets, but to which the young <i>littérateur</i> or painter would not be invited! That is to say, in London and in Paris the fashionable woman who would make her party more fashionable, courts the literary and @@ -15788,7 +15772,7 @@ woman who gives the party. This is in one sense true, for the professions have all the honour here. The journalists are often the men who give the party. The witty lawyer is the most honoured guest everywhere; so -are certain <i>littérateurs</i>.</p> +are certain <i>littérateurs</i>.</p> <p>People who have become rich suddenly, who wish to be leaders, to have gay, young, well-dressed guests at @@ -15843,7 +15827,7 @@ the merits of the festive plenty which crowns our table, relatively to the selection of the company which is gathered around it?</p> -<p>Have we in any of our cities those <i>déjeuners d'esprit</i>, +<p>Have we in any of our cities those <i>déjeuners d'esprit</i>, as in Paris, where certain witty women invite other witty women to come and talk of the last new novel? Have we counted on that possible Utopia where men @@ -15872,8 +15856,8 @@ in Paris, which are the most interesting places to the foreigner, which might be copied in every university town of America, to the infinite advantage of society. A fashionable young woman of Paris never misses these, -or the lectures, or her Thursday at the Comédie Française -where she hears the classic plays of Molière and +or the lectures, or her Thursday at the Comédie Française +where she hears the classic plays of Molière and even Shakspeare. It makes her a very agreeable talker, although her culture may not be very deep. She is not a bit less particular as to the number of buttons @@ -15885,17 +15869,17 @@ which we see in France, of all this with fashion.</p> <p>When this young and fashionable hostess gives a dinner, or an evening, she invites Coquelin and some -of his witty compeers, and she talks over Molière with +of his witty compeers, and she talks over Molière with the men who understand him best.</p> -<p>It is possible that French <i>littérateurs</i> care more +<p>It is possible that French <i>littérateurs</i> care more for society than their American brothers. They go into it more, and at splendid dinners in Paris I remember <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_401" id="Page_401">401</a></span> the writers for the "Figaro," as most desirable guests. The presence of members of the French Academy, for instance, is much courted, and as feminine influence -plays a considerable <i>rôle</i> in the Academy elections, it +plays a considerable <i>rôle</i> in the Academy elections, it is advisable for playwrights, novelists, and aspiring writers generally to cultivate influential relations with a view to the future. However this may be, literature and art @@ -15905,7 +15889,7 @@ and being dined, and making a dinner delightfully brilliant.</p> <p>The artists of Paris have become such magnates, living -in sumptuous houses and giving splendid fêtes, that +in sumptuous houses and giving splendid fêtes, that it is hardly possible to speak of their being left out; they are mostly agreeable men,—Carolus Duran and Bonnat especially. But painters, especially portrait painters, @@ -16050,360 +16034,6 @@ and "Recipes" in the text.</p> </div> <p> </p> -<hr class="full" /> -<p>***END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE ART OF ENTERTAINING***</p> -<p>******* This file should be named 41632-h.txt or 41632-h.zip *******</p> -<p>This and all associated files of various formats will be found in:<br /> -<a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/dirs/4/1/6/3/41632">http://www.gutenberg.org/4/1/6/3/41632</a></p> -<p> -Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions -will be renamed.</p> - -<p> -Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no -one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation -(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without -permission and without paying copyright royalties. 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