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diff --git a/41588-h/41588-h.htm b/41588-h/41588-h.htm index 69b1131..124e016 100644 --- a/41588-h/41588-h.htm +++ b/41588-h/41588-h.htm @@ -2,7 +2,7 @@ "http://www.w3.org/TR/xhtml1/DTD/xhtml1-strict.dtd"> <html xmlns="http://www.w3.org/1999/xhtml" xml:lang="en" lang="en"> <head> - <meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html;charset=iso-8859-1" /> + <meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html;charset=UTF-8" /> <meta http-equiv="Content-Style-Type" content="text/css" /> <title> The Project Gutenberg eBook of Europe from a Motor Car, by Russell Richardson. @@ -141,44 +141,7 @@ table { </style> </head> <body> - - -<pre> - -The Project Gutenberg EBook of Europe from a Motor Car, by Russell Richardson - -This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with -almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or -re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included -with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org - - -Title: Europe from a Motor Car - -Author: Russell Richardson - -Release Date: December 9, 2012 [EBook #41588] - -Language: English - -Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1 - -*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK EUROPE FROM A MOTOR CAR *** - - - - -Produced by Greg Bergquist, Anna Hall and the Online -Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This -file was produced from images generously made available -by The Internet Archive/American Libraries.) - - - - - - -</pre> +<div>*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 41588 ***</div> <hr class="chap" /> @@ -241,16 +204,16 @@ My Mother</span><br /> <li>Marienbad to Trafoi <span class="label"><a href="#Page_24">24</a></span></li> <li>Crossing the Stelvio into Italy <span class="label"><a href="#Page_36">36</a></span></li> <li>A Visit to Lyons <span class="label"><a href="#Page_65">65</a></span></li> -<li>Chambéry to Nîmes <span class="label"><a href="#Page_79">79</a></span></li> -<li>Nîmes to Carcassonne <span class="label"><a href="#Page_97">97</a></span></li> +<li>Chambéry to Nîmes <span class="label"><a href="#Page_79">79</a></span></li> +<li>Nîmes to Carcassonne <span class="label"><a href="#Page_97">97</a></span></li> <li>Carcassonne to Tarbes <span class="label"><a href="#Page_110">110</a></span></li> <li>Tarbes to Biarritz <span class="label"><a href="#Page_122">122</a></span></li> <li>A Day in Spain <span class="label"><a href="#Page_130">130</a></span></li> <li>Biarritz to Mont-de-Marsan <span class="label"><a href="#Page_143">143</a></span></li> -<li>Mont-de-Marsan to Périgueux <span class="label"><a href="#Page_159">159</a></span></li> -<li>Périgueux to Tours <span class="label"><a href="#Page_172">172</a></span></li> -<li>The Châteaux of Touraine <span class="label"><a href="#Page_182">182</a></span></li> -<li>Orléans to Dieppe <span class="label"><a href="#Page_197">197</a></span></li> +<li>Mont-de-Marsan to Périgueux <span class="label"><a href="#Page_159">159</a></span></li> +<li>Périgueux to Tours <span class="label"><a href="#Page_172">172</a></span></li> +<li>The Châteaux of Touraine <span class="label"><a href="#Page_182">182</a></span></li> +<li>Orléans to Dieppe <span class="label"><a href="#Page_197">197</a></span></li> <li>Expenses and Suggestions <span class="label"><a href="#Page_215">215</a></span></li> </ol></li></ol> <p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_6" id="Page_6">[Pg 6]</a></span></p> @@ -277,7 +240,7 @@ My Mother</span><br /> <li><span class="smcap">Arc de Triomphe at Orange</span> <span class="label"><a href="#Page_88">88</a></span></li> <li><span class="smcap">The Palace of the Popes at Avignon</span> <span class="label"><a href="#Page_90">90</a></span></li> <li><span class="smcap">The Ruined Bridge of St. Benezet at Avignon</span> <span class="label"><a href="#Page_92">92</a></span></li> -<li><span class="smcap">The Maison Carrée at Nîmes</span> <span class="label"><a href="#Page_94">94</a></span></li> +<li><span class="smcap">The Maison Carrée at Nîmes</span> <span class="label"><a href="#Page_94">94</a></span></li> <li><span class="smcap">The Castle and Double Line of Fortifications at Carcassonne</span> <span class="label"><a href="#Page_102">102</a></span></li> <li><span class="smcap">The Walled City of Carcassonne</span> <span class="label"><a href="#Page_104">104</a></span></li> <li><span class="smcap">The Pyrenees Were in Sight</span> <span class="label"><a href="#Page_112">112</a></span></li> @@ -289,9 +252,9 @@ My Mother</span><br /> <li><span class="smcap">A Miracle of Gothic Splendor</span> <span class="label"><a href="#Page_162">162</a></span></li> <li><span class="smcap">A Convenient Way to Carry Bread</span> <span class="label"><a href="#Page_176">176</a></span></li> <li><span class="smcap">The Road Swept Us Along the Bank of the Loire</span> <span class="label"><a href="#Page_180">180</a></span></li> -<li><span class="smcap">The Château of Loches Behind Its Imposing Entrance</span> <span class="label"><a href="#Page_186">186</a></span></li> -<li><span class="smcap">The Château of Chenonceaux</span> <span class="label"><a href="#Page_190">190</a></span></li> -<li><span class="smcap">The Château of Amboise on the Loire</span> <span class="label"><a href="#Page_194">194</a></span></li> +<li><span class="smcap">The Château of Loches Behind Its Imposing Entrance</span> <span class="label"><a href="#Page_186">186</a></span></li> +<li><span class="smcap">The Château of Chenonceaux</span> <span class="label"><a href="#Page_190">190</a></span></li> +<li><span class="smcap">The Château of Amboise on the Loire</span> <span class="label"><a href="#Page_194">194</a></span></li> <li><span class="smcap">The Wheat Fields of Normandy</span> <span class="label"><a href="#Page_198">198</a></span></li> <li><span class="smcap">The Gothic Cathedral at Chartres</span> <span class="label"><a href="#Page_200">200</a></span></li> <li><span class="smcap">The Seine at Rouen</span> <span class="label"><a href="#Page_208">208</a></span></li> @@ -334,12 +297,12 @@ highways of tourist traffic. From the summit of the Alps we were to see, far below us, the valleys of picturesque Savoy. Then came the long, thrilling descent into France through -Provençe, that treasure land of Roman antiquity, +Provençe, that treasure land of Roman antiquity, through the Pyrenees, lifting their huge<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_10" id="Page_10">[Pg 10]</a></span> barriers between France and Spain, to Biarritz on the Atlantic. Spain was before us, the -pastoral beauties of Limousin and Périgord, -the châteaux of Touraine, and the cathedrals +pastoral beauties of Limousin and Périgord, +the châteaux of Touraine, and the cathedrals of Normandy.</p> <p>An important part of our equipment was the @@ -472,7 +435,7 @@ Switzerland, Italy, and France, were to have a new meaning. Most of us would probably confuse the old provinces of France with the departments which correspond roughly to our -states. But Normandy, Brittany, and Provençe +states. But Normandy, Brittany, and Provençe have no more geographical significance to-day than "Mason and Dixon's Line," which once served as a boundary between North and @@ -484,7 +447,7 @@ France, we can see "the great central wheat plain; the broad wine belt; the western <i>landes</i>; the eastern pine slopes; the welter of history<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_15" id="Page_15">[Pg 15]</a></span> in Touraine and Anjou; dear, yellow, dusty, -windswept, singing, dancing, Provençe; the +windswept, singing, dancing, Provençe; the southward climatic procession of buckwheat, wheat, vine, olive, palm, and orange tree."<a name="FNanchor_2_2" id="FNanchor_2_2"></a><a href="#Footnote_2_2" class="fnanchor">[2]</a></p> @@ -584,7 +547,7 @@ crowding. In such a land, forestry is a distinguished profession.</p> <p>For some distance the valley narrowed almost -to a cañon. Then wider views opened, until +to a cañon. Then wider views opened, until from a wooded ridge we saw below us in the valley the village of Marienbad. Nature was good to her children when she fashioned this @@ -600,7 +563,7 @@ are generously provided with balconies to catch the sunshine and pine breezes. Unlike most health resorts, the atmosphere of the sick room is absent. Few invalids are to be seen. Most -of the <i>Kurgäste</i> come here for the purpose of +of the <i>Kurgäste</i> come here for the purpose of reducing their weight. Their chief rule of life is to eat little and exercise much. The numerous tennis courts are constantly filled. The @@ -626,7 +589,7 @@ with envy. Slowly the glasses are emptied, and then again filled. It is customary to walk up and down for an hour, while drinking two glasses of mineral water. With each swallow -the <i>Kurgäste</i> appear to be imbibing the hopes +the <i>Kurgäste</i> appear to be imbibing the hopes of their diminishing avoirdupois. The Germans are in the majority. They are always desperately conscientious in their endeavor to @@ -636,7 +599,7 @@ a long devotion to beer and sandwiches is not the best means to preserve the youthful figure. Near the Promenade are weighing shops. A place like Marienbad naturally includes among -its habitués some who could easily qualify for +its habitués some who could easily qualify for the monstrosity class. We remember one Egyptian phenomenon of enormous proportions who had to have his own private scales.</p> @@ -802,7 +765,7 @@ untidiness.</p> <p>Once more in the land of the Kaiser, and motoring through picturesque Bavaria, slow -changing and old-fashioned, the mediæval part +changing and old-fashioned, the mediæval part of modern Germany, a region of small towns and peasant farms. We were often delayed to pay the <i>Zoll</i> of a few <i>pfennigs</i>. The impost @@ -876,10 +839,10 @@ records.</p> Bavarian life, of its good cheer and warm spirit of hospitality, so in contrast with the colder<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_30" id="Page_30">[Pg 30]</a></span> social customs of the north. The Berliner is -reserved, exclusive. When he enters a café +reserved, exclusive. When he enters a café he would like, if possible, a table where he can sit alone. But Bavarian sociability is all-pervasive. -The café where we passed an hour +The café where we passed an hour or so was filled with it. Tyrolean warblers in native costume occupied the stage fashioned to portray a bit of south German landscape. Song @@ -887,14 +850,14 @@ books were handed us. Every one joined in singing the rollicking folk songs. Of course the evening would have been incomplete without a visit to the famous <i>Brauerei</i> and a cooling -sample of <i>Münchner Brau</i>.</p> +sample of <i>Münchner Brau</i>.</p> <p>After a couple of days in Munich we departed for Landeck, in the Austrian Tyrol, a ride of one hundred and eighty-two kilometers. For some distance our course was the same as the route to Ober-Ammergau. Lunch at a wayside inn included -<i>Gänsebraten</i>, which can only be described +<i>Gänsebraten</i>, which can only be described as "<i>ausgezeichnet</i>." Bright Tyrolese landscapes flew by. It was glorious running, the air buoyant with the breath of the mountains, @@ -964,7 +927,7 @@ in front of our hotel. Amid a medley of motor horns, other cars were also departing. As we ascended beyond Landeck, the road swung with easy grades above the magnificent gorge of -the Hoch Finstermünz pass, where we stopped +the Hoch Finstermünz pass, where we stopped for a picture. The ride from this point over the Reschen-scheideck pass was simply indescribable. In that exhilarating air, one seemed @@ -1111,8 +1074,8 @@ and then vegetation ceased altogether. We were above the clouds. Nothing but the sun above us. Snow banks appeared on either side; we could put out our hands and touch -them. Then through Franzenshöhe, formerly -the seat of the Austrian customhouse, to Ferdinandshöhe +them. Then through Franzenshöhe, formerly +the seat of the Austrian customhouse, to Ferdinandshöhe and the summit of Stelvio, 9,041 feet above the sea, the highest point of motor or carriage travel in Europe.</p> @@ -1122,7 +1085,7 @@ intoxication, of the moment as we stood there watching the ice fields roll away in great waves, as if the ocean, in a moment of wild upheaval, had been frozen. Leaving the car near the -little Ferdinandshöhe hotel, we climbed an +little Ferdinandshöhe hotel, we climbed an elevation of one hundred and fifty feet to the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_39" id="Page_39">[Pg 39]</a></span> Hotel Dreisprachenspitze, where one stands at the apex of three countries. We could look @@ -1432,7 +1395,7 @@ waters, red sails, and pretty villas, the scenery changed to flat, uninteresting country. Novara was reached by noon, its streets baking in the fierce August sun. At the Hotel Italia -the flies covered table and dishes. The ménu +the flies covered table and dishes. The ménu card presented difficulties; it was written in<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_50" id="Page_50">[Pg 50]</a></span> a very illegible Italian. We guessed at most of the courses, but macaroni was the only dish @@ -1520,7 +1483,7 @@ This "Rome of the Alps" is a perfect treasure<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page house of antiquities. Passing under ancient Roman arches, we rode down the quaint main streets to the Hotel Royal Victoria, situated, -according to our <i>Michelin Guide</i>, "<i>près de la +according to our <i>Michelin Guide</i>, "<i>près de la gare</i>." The hotel, although small, was clean. This fact of cleanliness speaks much for any hotel located in a small Italian town.</p> @@ -1569,7 +1532,7 @@ not a more difficult mountain pass in Europe.</p> days, threaded for some distance the tortuous windings of the Val d'Aosta, and crossed the Pont de la Salle above a high gorge. Near -the ancient village of Pré St. Didier a rocky +the ancient village of Pré St. Didier a rocky tunnel buried us temporarily from the outer world. Here the ascent began, and continued <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_55" id="Page_55">[Pg 55]</a></span>for some miles to La Thuile, the Italian <i>dogana</i>. @@ -1609,12 +1572,12 @@ ascent from the French side <i>en tour</i> to Italy.</p> <p>There was missing one interesting personality who had greeted visitors to the <i>hospice</i> in -other years, the Abbé Chanoux, for fifty years +other years, the Abbé Chanoux, for fifty years rector of the <i>hospice</i> and the last patriarch of that legendary region of the Alps. The <i>hospices</i> of the Grand St. Bernard, and of the Simplon in Swiss territory, are managed by -priests, but the Abbé Chanoux reigned alone +priests, but the Abbé Chanoux reigned alone in his mountain hospital, assisted by a few helpers and by his dogs. For half a century it was always a joy, when he saw some traveler @@ -1624,7 +1587,7 @@ after having shown his garden of Alpine plants, to point out the shortest road to La Thuile. To-day the tourist can see the Alpine garden and the grave where, at the -age of eighty-one years, Abbé Chanoux was +age of eighty-one years, Abbé Chanoux was buried. The resting place is where he wished it to be, in view of Italy, France, Mont Blanc, and his beloved <i>hospice</i>.</p> @@ -1644,7 +1607,7 @@ du jour</i>, took us into the real atmosphere of the country.</p> <p>The descent of nearly eighteen miles from -the summit to the French <i>douane</i> at Séez, was +the summit to the French <i>douane</i> at Séez, was like passing from mid-winter to mid-summer. What a superb stretch of motoring it was! The panorama, one of those marvelous masterpieces @@ -1670,7 +1633,7 @@ kind. The slightest carelessness in steering would have been fatal. Flowers and grass began to cover the meadows. Pine forests surrounded us. Then we entered on the long, -sharp descent to Séez, stopping at the <i>douane</i> +sharp descent to Séez, stopping at the <i>douane</i> where the French officials came out to receive us.</p> @@ -1730,7 +1693,7 @@ and the traveler. The ornamental horse chestnut and maple greeted us most often in the small towns of eastern and northern France. Long rows of plane trees formed one of the -familiar and beautiful sights of Provençe. We +familiar and beautiful sights of Provençe. We often saw these trees fringing the fields to give shelter and protection from the blasts of the mistral. It was also interesting to @@ -1769,7 +1732,7 @@ The sum held back until the final acceptance of his work, protects the government from danger of loss."<a name="FNanchor_3_3" id="FNanchor_3_3"></a><a href="#Footnote_3_3" class="fnanchor">[3]</a></p> <p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_62" id="Page_62">[Pg 62]</a></span></p> -<p>There was no hurry about reaching Chambéry, +<p>There was no hurry about reaching Chambéry, our headquarters for the night. The distance of a few miles could easily be covered before dark, so we halted for a little while by @@ -1811,7 +1774,7 @@ quaint city which so charmed the Prince of Wales, a few years ago, with its arcaded, winding streets and old-world charm; Aix-les-Bains, the noted and popular watering place; and -there, only a few miles away, Chambéry, +there, only a few miles away, Chambéry, historic city of the dukes of Savoy and of the kings of Italy. It was fine to see that same blue atmosphere about us again, and, above all, to @@ -1822,12 +1785,12 @@ feel most at home, and where the motorist can find, amid diversity of scenery, a provincial life charming alike for its hospitality and old-fashioned customs. Riding through the twilight -to Chambéry, we hunted up the Hôtel de<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_64" id="Page_64">[Pg 64]</a></span> +to Chambéry, we hunted up the Hôtel de<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_64" id="Page_64">[Pg 64]</a></span> France. This hotel could hardly have been described as luxurious, but it was comfortable, as are most of the hotels in the provinces.</p> -<p>The chief interest of Chambéry centers about +<p>The chief interest of Chambéry centers about the Rue des Arcades. At one end of the arcaded street is the curious Fontaine des Elephants. This monument, on four bronze @@ -1836,13 +1799,13 @@ Boigne, who settled here after his romantic life of soldiering in India and bestowed much of the fruit of the pagoda-tree upon the town." At the other end of the street are the high, massive -walls which protect the château where the dukes +walls which protect the château where the dukes of Savoy lived and where some of the kings of Italy were born. There is little enough to recall the glamour and glitter of those proud days. The city, with its more prosaic emblems of civil and military authority, now occupies -the château.</p> +the château.</p> <hr class="chap" /> @@ -1853,7 +1816,7 @@ the château.</p> A VISIT TO LYONS</h2> -<p>At Chambéry we interrupted our trip +<p>At Chambéry we interrupted our trip through southern France to visit Lyons, the center of the silk industry not only for France but for the entire world. For once, we @@ -1874,13 +1837,13 @@ army of summer tourists, holds, in many respects, a unique place among the world's great cities. We would speak of its magnificent location upon two rivers, the rapid Rhone and the -sluggish Saône; of the twenty-seven bridges<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_66" id="Page_66">[Pg 66]</a></span> +sluggish Saône; of the twenty-seven bridges<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_66" id="Page_66">[Pg 66]</a></span> that cross them; of the many miles of tree-lined quays, which hold back the spring floods and offer a lovely promenade to the people. No one who has seen Lyons will forget how the houses rise in picturesque confusion, tier piled above -tier, to the heights of Fauvière, where some of +tier, to the heights of Fauvière, where some of the Roman emperors lived centuries ago, and where, on the site of the old Roman forum, stands a beautiful church, overlooking the city @@ -2191,7 +2154,7 @@ On another loom there was being reproduced a piece of sixteenth-century brocade. A French millionaire had noticed the original in a museum and wanted an exact reproduction of it -for a new château he is building. After a +for a new château he is building. After a morning passed amid such scenes, you feel that<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_78" id="Page_78">[Pg 78]</a></span> Lyons is worth visiting, if for no other reason than to see at their work these artists of the @@ -2205,10 +2168,10 @@ industries.</p> <h2><a name="CHAPTER_V" id="CHAPTER_V">CHAPTER V</a><br /> -CHAMBÉRY TO NÎMES</h2> +CHAMBÉRY TO NÃŽMES</h2> -<p>From Chambéry our course ran southwest +<p>From Chambéry our course ran southwest through the Midi, that great sweep of territory stretching across the Mediterranean basin from the Alps to the Pyrenees and @@ -2267,7 +2230,7 @@ town of Les Echelles.</p> <p>Until this point our course was the route to the Grande Chartreuse, the monastery -where, in mediæval days, the monks concocted +where, in mediæval days, the monks concocted a soothing cordial to refresh the hours of rude toil. The road now branched off in another direction. Our hopes of catching a glimpse @@ -2333,10 +2296,10 @@ way to Valence. The people were obliging. Whether we were in the country or in some small town, there was always in evidence that same spirit of hospitable helpfulness which -we found at the French <i>douane</i> in Séez.</p> +we found at the French <i>douane</i> in Séez.</p> <p>The street lamps of Valence were burning -when we arrived at the Hôtel de la Croix d'Or, +when we arrived at the Hôtel de la Croix d'Or, so well known to all who journey from Paris to the Riviera. The marble entrance was quite imposing, but apparently after reaching @@ -2441,7 +2404,7 @@ time.</p> that lunch. There was <i>potage St. Germain</i>, made as only the French can make it. The oil for the <i>salade</i> was from the neighboring -olive groves of Provençe. The <i>haricots verts</i> +olive groves of Provençe. The <i>haricots verts</i> picked that morning in the garden, the <i>raisins</i> fresh from the vineyard. Best of all were the mushroom patties. One portion called @@ -2455,7 +2418,7 @@ found them so good that, on leaving, they had left orders for shipment to their home addresses. Now she was planning to erect a small factory.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_88" id="Page_88">[Pg 88]</a></span> Her recital was interrupted by a Frenchman, -who implored "<i>une troisième portion</i>." He +who implored "<i>une troisième portion</i>." He purchased a dozen cans of mushrooms, and if they had been gold nuggets he could not have stowed them away more carefully in his car. @@ -2480,7 +2443,7 @@ structure is the largest and most magnificent of its kind in the world. It is also the best preserved. Every year in August dramatic and lyrical performances are given by <i>La -Comédie Française</i>. Thus, after nearly twenty +Comédie Française</i>. Thus, after nearly twenty <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_89" id="Page_89">[Pg 89]</a></span>centuries, the theater is still serving its original purpose. We were impressed by the auditory facilities. One of us stood on the lowest tier @@ -2506,11 +2469,11 @@ like a distant steeple against a crimson sunset.</p> <p>The twilight was full of a brooding, dreamy silence as of communion with the past. This -is the atmosphere of Provençe, an atmosphere +is the atmosphere of Provençe, an atmosphere of "old, forgotten, far-off things and battles long ago." If one is interested in wonderful ruins that suggest the might of Rome's empire, -then let him go to Provençe, that part of +then let him go to Provençe, that part of southern France where the Romans founded their <i>provincia</i>, and where they built great cities. We found the hotels rather dreary.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_90" id="Page_90">[Pg 90]</a></span> @@ -2529,7 +2492,7 @@ people are romantic, impractical, happy in their poverty, singing amid grinding routine. They have their own dialect, which is very musical. Even the names of their towns and -cities are full of music, for example, Montélimar, +cities are full of music, for example, Montélimar, Avignon, Carcassonne. The country, with its Roman ruins, its bright sun, its rich color, its laughter, and song, is like another @@ -2537,7 +2500,7 @@ Italy. Nowhere except in that land do we come so close to the great things of Roman antiquity.</p> -<p>We reached the Grand Hôtel in Avignon +<p>We reached the Grand Hôtel in Avignon at nightfall, but dined outside that we might the better observe the life of the people. The sweet voice of an Italian street singer made @@ -2557,7 +2520,7 @@ in this interesting walled city on the Rhone, where the popes lived between 1305 and 1377 in the huge palace that resembles a fortress. If there were nothing to Avignon but its high -mediæval walls and watch towers, the place +mediæval walls and watch towers, the place would be worth a long pilgrimage. These gray ramparts, apparently new, were actually built in the fourteenth century. What a picture @@ -2594,7 +2557,7 @@ enough now, with no trace of the beautiful villas which the cardinals built and where they were wont to revel amid luxury after the day's duties at the palace. Beyond the town we -could see the stately towers of Fort St. André, +could see the stately towers of Fort St. André, in that early period a frontier fortress of France, so jealous of the growing power of the papacy. Most appealing of all, was the broken bridge of @@ -2621,10 +2584,10 @@ sing.</p> <span class="i0">Sur le pont d'Avignon, l'on y danse tous en rond."<br /></span> </div></div> -<p>The distance to Nîmes was so short that we +<p>The distance to Nîmes was so short that we decided to motor there for lunch, see the vast Roman amphitheater and the world-famous -Maison Carrée, and then push on to Montpellier, +Maison Carrée, and then push on to Montpellier, where we planned to spend the night and perhaps remain for a day or so.</p> @@ -2649,8 +2612,8 @@ that we carried nothing dutiable. Of course, at a time like this, the engine refused to start. After vigorously "cranking" for a quarter of an hour, and suffering all the sensations of sunstroke, -we moved on to the Hôtel du Luxembourg -for <i>déjeuner</i>.</p> +we moved on to the Hôtel du Luxembourg +for <i>déjeuner</i>.</p> <p>Among our recollections of the lunch at this hotel were the ripe, purple figs. There is no @@ -2658,23 +2621,23 @@ reason why we should confess how quickly this delicious fruit disappeared. Farther north, in Berlin, such figs would have been a luxury, and might have appeared for sale at a fancy price in -some store window. In Nîmes they were served +some store window. In Nîmes they were served as a regular part of the lunch. We could almost have traced our trip southward by the fruits that were served us from time to time.</p> <div class="figcenter"> <img src="images/illo_123.jpg" alt="" /> -<div class="caption"><p class="center"><i>The Maison Carrée at Nimes</i> <i>Page 95</i></p> +<div class="caption"><p class="center"><i>The Maison Carrée at Nimes</i> <i>Page 95</i></p> <p class="center">Copyright by Underwood & Underwood</p></div> </div> <p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_95" id="Page_95">[Pg 95]</a></span></p> <p>The broad boulevards and shady avenues of -Nîmes form a small part of the attractions of +Nîmes form a small part of the attractions of this prosperous city. There are fine theaters -and cafés, especially the cafés with tables and +and cafés, especially the cafés with tables and chairs extending into the streets to accommodate the crowds of thirsty patrons. It was pleasant to be a part of this typically French @@ -2684,15 +2647,15 @@ and rapid conversation. Many phases of French life pass before so advantageous an observation point.</p> -<p>But Nîmes is not simply a modern city. Nowhere +<p>But Nîmes is not simply a modern city. Nowhere else in France, not even in Orange, does one get a clearer idea of what the splendor of Roman civilization must have been. <i>Provincia</i> was a favorite and favored province of the -empire; Nîmes was the center of provincial life. +empire; Nîmes was the center of provincial life. For five centuries the different emperors took turns in enriching and embellishing it. We -visited the Maison Carrée, most perfect of +visited the Maison Carrée, most perfect of existing Roman temples, inspected the gateway called the Porte d'Auguste, looked up at the Tour Magne, a Roman tower, saw the remains @@ -2702,7 +2665,7 @@ but so wonderfully preserved that you simply lose track of the centuries. The great stones, fitting so evenly without cement, have that same rich, golden brown color, the prevailing -color tone of Provençe. We entered the amphitheater +color tone of Provençe. We entered the amphitheater through one of many arcades, the same arcades through which so many generations of toga-clad Romans had passed to applaud the @@ -2711,7 +2674,7 @@ to see the bull fights which are held three or four times a year. On that particular afternoon a large platform had been erected for the orchestra in the middle of the arena. Open-air -concerts are very popular in Nîmes during +concerts are very popular in Nîmes during the summer.</p> <p>It was something of a shock to pass from @@ -2727,7 +2690,7 @@ modern age. The contrast was startling.</p> <h2><a name="CHAPTER_VI" id="CHAPTER_VI">CHAPTER VI</a><br /> -NÎMES TO CARCASSONNE</h2> +NÃŽMES TO CARCASSONNE</h2> <p>There was abundance of time to arrive in @@ -2739,7 +2702,7 @@ about the roads in the Midi. On the whole, they were not much more than average, and not so good as we had expected to find them after that first experience on the Route Nationale -to Chambéry. Where there was a bad +to Chambéry. Where there was a bad place in the road we usually saw a pile of loose stones waiting to be used for repair, but many of these piles looked as though they had been @@ -2762,7 +2725,7 @@ on the Continent. It is probable that the present signs of decadence are only temporary. The government is fully alive to the needs of the hour. In all probability the movement headed -by President Poincaré more fully to open up +by President Poincaré more fully to open up the provinces to motor-tourist travel will have a good effect upon road conditions.</p> @@ -2771,10 +2734,10 @@ which makes such a pleasant first impression as Montpellier; there is such an atmosphere of culture. One does not need to be told that this is a university town. Municipal affairs seem to -be well regulated; the <i>hôtel de ville</i> would do +be well regulated; the <i>hôtel de ville</i> would do credit to a much larger city. We discovered an open-air restaurant located upon an attractive -<i>place</i>. The <i>garçon</i>, after receiving a preliminary +<i>place</i>. The <i>garçon</i>, after receiving a preliminary <i>pourboire</i>, served us so well that we returned there the next day.</p> @@ -2813,14 +2776,14 @@ that billowed and rolled away from either side of the road. There was a touch of fall in the air, a glint of purple amid the green. Ripening suns and tender rains had done their work. -The road led through Béziers, bustling center of +The road led through Béziers, bustling center of preparations for the harvest. On several occasions we passed a wagon loaded with wine casks so large that three horses with difficulty drew it. The capacity of those huge casks must have been thousands of gallons.</p> -<p>At Béziers we could have taken the direct +<p>At Béziers we could have taken the direct route to Toulouse, but then we would have missed seeing Carcassonne, the most unique architectural curiosity in France and perhaps @@ -2839,7 +2802,7 @@ and let in thousands of unbidden guests. Under these circumstances our lunch was a hasty one. As the noontide heat was too great to permit a start, we gladly accepted the invitation -of our <i>hôtesse</i> to see the church. The +of our <i>hôtesse</i> to see the church. The cool interior induced us to prolong our acquaintance with the sacred relics and to admire with our guide a statue of St. Peter whose halo had @@ -2849,7 +2812,7 @@ centuries.</p> <p>The afternoon's ride to Carcassonne was in the face of a strong wind. It was our first experience with the mistral, a curious and -disagreeable phenomenon of Provençe. There +disagreeable phenomenon of Provençe. There was no let-up to the storms of dust it swept over us. There were no clouds; simply this incessant wind that hurled its invisible forces @@ -2863,15 +2826,15 @@ gusts.</p> <p>All at once we forgot about the wind. In full view from the road was a hill crowned -by the towers and ramparts of a mediæval +by the towers and ramparts of a mediæval city, a marvelous maze of battlements, frowning and formidable as if the enemy were expected any moment. We rode on to <i>la ville basse</i>, the other and more modern Carcassonne, a little checkerboard of a city with streets running at right angles and so different from -the usual intricate streets of mediæval origin. -Securing rooms at the Grand Hôtel St. Bernard, +the usual intricate streets of mediæval origin. +Securing rooms at the Grand Hôtel St. Bernard, we hastened back, lest in the meantime an apparition so mirage-like should have disappeared. The first view of this silent, fortified @@ -2885,7 +2848,7 @@ complete.</p> <p>Carcassonne had always been one of our travel dreams. From somewhere back in high-school days came the memory of a French poem about an old soldier, -a veteran of the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_103" id="Page_103">[Pg 103]</a><br /></span> Napoleonic wars, who longed to see <i>la cité</i>. +a veteran of the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_103" id="Page_103">[Pg 103]</a><br /></span> Napoleonic wars, who longed to see <i>la cité</i>. One day he started on his pilgrimage, but he was sick and feeble. His weakness increased, and death overtook him while the journey @@ -2940,7 +2903,7 @@ be visited.</p> ramparts there was visible a great range of country, the slender windings of the river Aude, the foothills of the Pyrenees, and the -vague summits of the Cévennes. We followed +vague summits of the Cévennes. We followed a silent grass-grown street to the church of <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_105" id="Page_105">[Pg 105]</a><br /></span>St. Nazaire. It was beautiful to see the windows of rare Gothic glass in the full glow of the @@ -2958,7 +2921,7 @@ glory of color.</p> </div> <p>There may have been an elevator in the -Grand Hôtel St. Bernard, but we were not +Grand Hôtel St. Bernard, but we were not successful in locating it. In a general way, this modest hostelry was of the same type which one finds in most of the small French @@ -2983,7 +2946,7 @@ the cuisine is above criticism, it does not matter if the rooms are small and gloomy or if the architect forgets to put a bathroom in the house. The Frenchman likes to dine well. The -café ministers to his social life. But with +café ministers to his social life. But with these important questions settled to his satisfaction, he is not inclined to be too exacting about his domestic environment.</p> @@ -3013,7 +2976,7 @@ no cheerful lounging or smoking rooms. Had it been winter, the heating facilities would probably have left much to be desired, and we might often have repeated our experience -at the Hôtel Touvard in Romans. It was +at the Hôtel Touvard in Romans. It was January, and very cold. Arriving early in the afternoon, we found that our rooms had absorbed a large part of the frigidity of out-of-doors. @@ -3029,8 +2992,8 @@ two little gables opposite the names of hotels<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pag above the average. While they were not pretentious, the quality of service was surprisingly good. We could always get hot -water when we wanted it. The <i>maître de -l'hôtel</i> was always on the alert to render our +water when we wanted it. The <i>maître de +l'hôtel</i> was always on the alert to render our stay as comfortable as possible, and to give us any information to facilitate sight-seeing. Most of the hotels had electric lights, such as @@ -3040,13 +3003,13 @@ that one pays as high as two francs for a bath, that is because bathing among the French is more of the nature of a ceremony than a habit. As for the small and neglected writing room, we -must remember that in France the café usurps +must remember that in France the café usurps that function of the American hotel. This is a national custom. How the Frenchman lives -in his café! Here he comes before lunch for +in his café! Here he comes before lunch for his <i>aperitif</i>, to discuss business or politics, to write letters, to read the newspapers and play -games, to enjoy his <i>tasse de café</i> after lunch, +games, to enjoy his <i>tasse de café</i> after lunch, and in summer to while away the drowsy hours of the early afternoon while listening to open-air music.</p> @@ -3078,7 +3041,7 @@ into southwestern France and nearer the Pyrenees. From time to time the landscape, with its fields of fodder corn, was peculiarly American. The illusion never lasted long; a -château appeared on a distant hill, or a sixteenth-century +château appeared on a distant hill, or a sixteenth-century church by the roadside, and we were once more in Europe, with its ancient architecture and historical association, with its @@ -3087,7 +3050,7 @@ infinite change of scenery and life.</p> <p>Our trip never grew monotonous. There was always the element of the unexpected. For instance, in the village of Villefranche we -rode into the midst of a local <i>fête</i>. Banners +rode into the midst of a local <i>fête</i>. Banners overhung the road; flags were flying from the windows; ruddy-cheeked girls in gay peasant dress were practicing in the dusty street a @@ -3146,7 +3109,7 @@ Parisien</i> under the black bars of shadow cast by the poplar trees.</p> <p>At St. Gaudens, where we stopped before the -Hôtel Ferrière for lunch, an American party +Hôtel Ferrière for lunch, an American party was just arriving from the opposite direction. There were three middle-aged ladies and a <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_113" id="Page_113">[Pg 113]</a><br /></span>French chauffeur who did not appear to understand @@ -3173,7 +3136,7 @@ conversation.</p> <p>Leaving our car in the garage and our sympathy with the unfortunate chauffeur, we went in to give appreciative attention to a well-served -ménu. So long as we remained in France we +ménu. So long as we remained in France we never failed to order sardines. There is a certain quality and delicacy about the flavor of the French sardine which one misses outside of that @@ -3190,7 +3153,7 @@ road, big, powerful creatures with wide horns and glossy skin.</p> <p>Descending from St. Gaudens into the plain, -we shot along the highway to Montréjeau, +we shot along the highway to Montréjeau, where there was a steep ascent through this bizarre little town, very Italian looking with its arcaded streets, red roofs, and brightly painted @@ -3248,12 +3211,12 @@ There were views of the snowy Pyrenees. On the side of a mountain we caught a moment's glimpse of Tarbes in the plain.</p> -<p>The Grand Hôtel Moderne was a happy surprise. +<p>The Grand Hôtel Moderne was a happy surprise. The elevator actually worked, and the running hot and cold water was a boon delightful to find after these dusty mountain roads. Tarbes is chiefly interesting for its great -horse-breeding industry. Barère, the regicide, +horse-breeding industry. Barère, the regicide, described by Macaulay as coming "nearer than any person mentioned in history or fiction, whether man or devil, to the idea of consummate @@ -3439,8 +3402,8 @@ waiting for the bar to be lifted.</p> the village inn of Orthez when we arrived. One of them, a Frenchman, told us by all means to see the curious fortified bridge that crosses the -Gave in this village. "<i>C'est très curieux. C'est -quelque chose à voir!</i>" The ruin, with the high +Gave in this village. "<i>C'est très curieux. C'est +quelque chose à voir!</i>" The ruin, with the high stone tower in the middle of the bridge, is a thrilling relic of the religious wars. One can see the tower window through which the unfortunate @@ -3453,13 +3416,13 @@ killed as they climbed out on the banks.</p> registered the kilometers so quickly that there were fully two hours of daylight to spare when we crossed the long bridge over the Adour in -search of the Grand Hôtel. One street led us +search of the Grand Hôtel. One street led us astray, and then another, until we were in the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_124" id="Page_124">[Pg 124]</a></span> suburbs before discovering our mistake. It was a fortunate mistake, for we were here favored with a view of the fortifications of Bayonne and the ivy-covered ruin of Marrac, -the château where Napoleon met the Spanish +the château where Napoleon met the Spanish king Ferdinand and compelled him to renounce the throne in favor of his brother Joseph. It is one of the strange turnings of history that the @@ -3468,7 +3431,7 @@ Spain should have witnessed, six years later, the downfall of his hopes.</p> <p>Our return search was more successful. We -found the Grand Hôtel, and then were half +found the Grand Hôtel, and then were half sorry that we had found it. The hotel was crowded, the only <i>chambre</i> placed at our disposal not large enough for two people. An @@ -3492,13 +3455,13 @@ become acquainted with the <i>jambon delicieux</i> and the <i>bonbons</i> for which the city is so well known. After paying our <i>compte</i>, including a garage charge of two francs,—the first which -we had paid since leaving Chambéry,—we +we had paid since leaving Chambéry,—we covered the few remaining kilometers to Biarritz, stopping <i>en route</i> to pick up ten liters of gasoline in order to avoid the more extravagant prices of that playground for Europe's royalty and aristocracy. The choicest feature of our -rooms at the Hôtel Victoria was the splendid +rooms at the Hôtel Victoria was the splendid outlook upon the Atlantic and its ever-changing panorama of sky and sea. The Spanish season was in full swing. There is always a season in @@ -3516,8 +3479,8 @@ invasion from that country.</p> <p>The charm of Biarritz is irresistible. It is easy to see why Napoleon III made it the seat -of his summer court and built the Villa Eugénie, -which has since become the Hôtel du Palais. If +of his summer court and built the Villa Eugénie, +which has since become the Hôtel du Palais. If one searched the whole coast line of Europe, it would be hard to find a spot so rich in natural beauty. The sea has such wide horizons; no @@ -3538,7 +3501,7 @@ was the popular hour. Then the Plage was were the shouts of the bathers as the green, foaming combers swept over them. The beach was a kaleidoscope of color and animation. -Dark-eyed <i>señoritas</i>, carrying brightly colored +Dark-eyed <i>señoritas</i>, carrying brightly colored parasols and robed in the latest and most original French toilettes, walked along the shore. The Spanish women are very fond of dress, and @@ -3563,8 +3526,8 @@ or the walk, barefooted and in bathrobe, along the Plage; then lunch in the casino restaurant above the sea, while an Italian orchestra plays music that one likes to hear by the ocean. -For our <i>tasse de café</i> we would choose one of -the cafés along the crowded avenue Bellevue. +For our <i>tasse de café</i> we would choose one of +the cafés along the crowded avenue Bellevue. What a display of wealth and fine motor cars!</p> <div class="figcenter"> @@ -3585,7 +3548,7 @@ in the improvement of the Spanish roads and in the opening of Spain's scenic wealth to the tourist world. Toward the close of the afternoon every one went to the beautiful casino -to enjoy the concert and <i>une tasse de thé</i>, and +to enjoy the concert and <i>une tasse de thé</i>, and then later in the evening to watch the brilliant spectacle of dress and gayety.</p> @@ -3644,9 +3607,9 @@ the shade of its venerable trees. The life in this little village of only four thousand people was not always so simple as it is now. Louis XIV was a frequent visitor, with his courtiers. One -can see the château where the "Grand Monarque" +can see the château where the "Grand Monarque" lodged at the time of his marriage to the -Infanta Marie Thérèse of Spain on June 9, 1660. +Infanta Marie Thérèse of Spain on June 9, 1660. Another page from this gorgeous period is the church of St. Jean Baptiste, where the ceremony took place. Following the Basque custom, the @@ -3654,15 +3617,15 @@ upper galleries are reserved for the men, while the area below is reserved for the women.</p> <p>On reaching the Franco-Spanish frontier -village of Béhobie a French officer appeared +village of Béhobie a French officer appeared and, after he had entered the necessary details in his book, allowed us to cross the bridge over the Bidassoa River into Spain. -This part of the town is called Béhobeia. It is +This part of the town is called Béhobeia. It is a unique arrangement, this administration of what is practically one and the same town by<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_132" id="Page_132">[Pg 132]</a></span> two different countries. Yet the difference -between Béhobie and Béhobeia is as great as +between Béhobie and Béhobeia is as great as the difference between France and Spain. The houses across the river began to display the most lively colors. It would have been hard to @@ -3961,8 +3924,8 @@ three short weeks before we were able to break the spell of the alluring Grande Plage and shape our course in a northeasterly direction, along the foothills of the Pyrenees, -through the picturesque regions of Périgord -and Limousin to Tours and the châteaux +through the picturesque regions of Périgord +and Limousin to Tours and the châteaux country. Bayonne, the fortress city, looked peaceful enough with its tapering cathedral spires rising above the great earthen ramparts, @@ -4029,7 +3992,7 @@ study at first hand the influences at work to widen the gulf between the two nations. We conversed with soldiers, officers, peasants in the fields, and casual French acquaintances<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_146" id="Page_146">[Pg 146]</a></span> -whom we met in the cafés and hotels. Every +whom we met in the cafés and hotels. Every one admitted the gravity of the situation, and said that nothing short of the actual shadow of German invasion could have induced France @@ -4056,7 +4019,7 @@ France; Germany drew back to wait for another chance. Professor Lamprecht, the great German historian, regrets that Germany<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_147" id="Page_147">[Pg 147]</a></span> did not hurl her armies against France at that -time. In the Delcassé crisis of 1905 France +time. In the Delcassé crisis of 1905 France was again threatened. We know now that the Morocco negotiations between France and Germany in 1911 kept Europe on the verge @@ -4145,7 +4108,7 @@ names of different countries and their cities in the spelling of each country. The French cities and provinces are written in French, with the exception of provinces of Basse-Lorraine, -Franche-Comté, and Bourgogne. +Franche-Comté, and Bourgogne. These are written in German.</p> <p>Another force in Germany making for war @@ -4223,7 +4186,7 @@ is true that there is a certain veneer of German civilization; the policemen wear the same uniform as the Berlin police; German names appear over the principal shops; but in the stores and -cafés one hears the middle-class Alsatians speaking +cafés one hears the middle-class Alsatians speaking French; French clothes, French customs prevail. In a word, the people, without French support, have gradually become more French @@ -4318,7 +4281,7 @@ burly Frenchman, noticing the feather and taking him for a German, resented the apparently contemptuous way in which the journal had been thrown in the street. "<i>Vous avez -insulté la patrie</i>," he said in a loud voice. Like +insulté la patrie</i>," he said in a loud voice. Like a flash the rumor spread in the street that three <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_157" id="Page_157">[Pg 157]</a><br /></span>Germans had insulted France, and a threatening crowd surrounded us. A restaurant offering @@ -4342,7 +4305,7 @@ walk without further interruption.</p> <p>Mont-de-Marsan has little to relieve the monotony of its narrow village life. We -bumped over cobbled streets to the Hôtel +bumped over cobbled streets to the Hôtel Richelieu, securing pleasant rooms which opened on an attractive little court, enlivened by a murmuring fountain. Dinner was hardly @@ -4369,7 +4332,7 @@ entice us into a purchase.</p> <h2><a name="CHAPTER_XI" id="CHAPTER_XI">CHAPTER XI</a><br /> -MONT-DE-MARSAN TO PÉRIGUEUX</h2> +MONT-DE-MARSAN TO PÉRIGUEUX</h2> <p>Motoring on to St. Justin, we plunged @@ -4485,8 +4448,8 @@ head of the German army.</p> banquet, but we were not yet French enough to do full justice to three kinds of meat. France is essentially a country of fields and gardens. -How we looked forward to every <i>déjeuner</i> and -every <i>dîner</i> so bountifully spread with the +How we looked forward to every <i>déjeuner</i> and +every <i>dîner</i> so bountifully spread with the famous products of her soil! The cuisine of these small towns would not suffer in comparison with the hotels of larger cities. One is @@ -4500,7 +4463,7 @@ with tobacco fields, small churches with bell cotes guarded by solemn, century-old cypress trees; or perhaps it was an old Gothic house or an ancient gateway with a piece of -mediæval wall still clinging to it. In one +mediæval wall still clinging to it. In one village we saw bizarre stores, where the doorway and window were one. This must be a survival of Roman times, because we had seen @@ -4547,7 +4510,7 @@ table. The rain, pattering down the chimney, had almost extinguished the blaze in the small open fireplace. Could anything have been more barren or forlorn! Judging from the -appearance of our <i>hôtesse</i>, the bathtub either +appearance of our <i>hôtesse</i>, the bathtub either did not exist or had long since ceased to figure prominently in the domestic life of the household. Two other peasant women of the same @@ -4564,7 +4527,7 @@ ragged aprons till we disappeared over the hill.</p> <p>The bridge spanning the Dordogne into cheerful Bergerac showed a town busy with festal preparation for the coming of President -Poincaré. Pine branches were being wound +Poincaré. Pine branches were being wound around telephone poles; festoons of green decorated the houses; windows were bright with flags; the streets overhung with arches bearing @@ -4574,7 +4537,7 @@ shop which was also a <i>boulangerie</i>.</p> <p>It was interesting to discover, from the local papers, that our route for the next two days was to be part of the itinerary selected by President -Poincaré for his tour through the French +Poincaré for his tour through the French provinces.</p> <p>This trip resulted from the president's desire @@ -4584,7 +4547,7 @@ especially to attract the attention of the motor world to beautiful and interesting regions of France which had too long been neglected,—these slumberous small towns of the Dordogne,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_167" id="Page_167">[Pg 167]</a></span> -Limousin and Périgord, hidden from the broad +Limousin and Périgord, hidden from the broad travel track, rich in local traditions and peculiarities, wrapped in their old-world atmosphere, surrounded by exquisite landscapes with @@ -4593,17 +4556,17 @@ president's coming was a big event. Some of them recalled that since the days of Louis XI no ruler of the state had visited their village.</p> -<p>We were to see Périgueux, with its precious +<p>We were to see Périgueux, with its precious relics of Roman life and of the Middle Ages; Limoges, noted for its beautiful enamels and the center of the porcelain industry. It was this part of France, so little visited even by the -French themselves, that President Poincaré +French themselves, that President Poincaré chose for his week of motoring. For him, as well as for us, it was to be a delightful voyage of discovery.</p> -<p>The twenty-nine miles to Périgueux proved +<p>The twenty-nine miles to Périgueux proved a memorable motor experience. Much of the way was among steep, tree-covered slopes. No one met us along the road.</p> @@ -4643,7 +4606,7 @@ years in Germany, shows how France is now paying the penalty for neglecting that vital national problem of population.</p> -<p>Our ride to Périgueux gave vivid emphasis to +<p>Our ride to Périgueux gave vivid emphasis to the above figures. There was little evidence of peasant life. One had the impression of roaming through a vast, uninhabited country.</p> @@ -4661,7 +4624,7 @@ over the river and into the town, under arches of electric lights arranged in letters to spell words of greeting to the president.</p> -<p>The Grand Hôtel du Commerce should have +<p>The Grand Hôtel du Commerce should have been torn down years ago. It was a good example of how poor a provincial hotel can be. Even the recommendation of the Touring Club<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_170" id="Page_170">[Pg 170]</a></span> @@ -4671,24 +4634,24 @@ opened wide all the windows. After a few minutes, the fresh air revived us.</p> <p>For a place that occupies so little space in the -pages of Baedeker, Périgueux is unique. Numerous +pages of Baedeker, Périgueux is unique. Numerous remains from the different epochs of history may be found. The Roman period, the Middle Ages, the Renaissance, and modern times have all left their imprint. There is the -massive tower of Vesône, once part of a Gallo-Roman -temple. The Château Barrière has one +massive tower of Vesône, once part of a Gallo-Roman +temple. The Château Barrière has one curious feature: a railroad runs through the deep moat of feudal times. We shall need all our superlatives to describe the Jardin des -Arènes. Where else will you find a public +Arènes. Where else will you find a public garden laid out on the site of an ancient Roman amphitheater, keeping the same size, the same circular form, and even preserving some of the original arches to admit the modern public? A French journalist once wrote that "even without its bright sunlight, even without imagination, -Périgueux remains one of the quaintest +Périgueux remains one of the quaintest towns in the world and one of those places which the French people would visit in crowds<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_171" id="Page_171">[Pg 171]</a></span> if it were situated in another country." Viewed @@ -4703,10 +4666,10 @@ Sophia of Constantinople.</p> <h2><a name="CHAPTER_XII" id="CHAPTER_XII">CHAPTER XII</a><br /> -PÉRIGUEUX TO TOURS</h2> +PÉRIGUEUX TO TOURS</h2> -<p>From Périgueux we followed the Isle for +<p>From Périgueux we followed the Isle for some distance before turning to wind over the hills. It was a region of chestnut trees, the <i>marronniers</i> for which the province is so celebrated. @@ -4716,15 +4679,15 @@ groves of them were in the near distance, their spreading branches reminding us of English oaks.</p> -<p>The ascent continued to Thivièrs, a tiny +<p>The ascent continued to Thivièrs, a tiny village of the Dordogne. One of the <i>vieux -citoyens</i> pointed out the Hôtel de France as the -best place to lunch. "<i>On mange très bien lábas</i>," +citoyens</i> pointed out the Hôtel de France as the +best place to lunch. "<i>On mange très bien lábas</i>," he said. The lunch was a <i>chef d'œuvre</i>. We had never tasted such <i>poulet au casserole</i> or -such <i>cotelettes de mouton grillées</i>. The <i>lievre</i> had +such <i>cotelettes de mouton grillées</i>. The <i>lievre</i> had a delicious <i>suc de viande</i> which went well with -the <i>pommes frités</i>. There was <i>vin à discrétion</i>, +the <i>pommes frités</i>. There was <i>vin à discrétion</i>, and, besides, different kinds of <i>fromage</i> and the French melons, golden and juicy and always the best part of the repast.</p> @@ -4732,16 +4695,16 @@ best part of the repast.</p> <p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_173" id="Page_173">[Pg 173]</a></span></p> <p>Nothing is more delightfully characteristic of -these small towns like Thivièrs than the delicacies +these small towns like Thivièrs than the delicacies peculiar to them. These little communities, so different from each other in local customs and mannerisms, are just as unique and original in their cooking. It was always interesting, when we had lunch or dinner in a new -place, to scan the ménu for some new dish that +place, to scan the ménu for some new dish that we had never tasted. Whenever the <i>garcon</i> or -<i>maître de l'hôtel</i> pointed to an item on the ménu -and said, "<i>C'est une specialitè de la maison</i>," +<i>maître de l'hôtel</i> pointed to an item on the ménu +and said, "<i>C'est une specialitè de la maison</i>," then we knew that something good was coming. One never tires of these French delicacies. Our regret at leaving them behind was usually @@ -4751,17 +4714,17 @@ next place <i>en route</i>. Each one of the following names recalls experiences that we shall not soon forget. These are simply samples. The list would be too long if we named them all; the -<i>truites</i> of Chambéry; the mushroom patties of +<i>truites</i> of Chambéry; the mushroom patties of Pierrelatte; the <i>jambon</i> of Bayonne; the <i>truffes</i> -of Périgueux; the <i>rillettes</i> and <i>vins</i> of Tours; -the <i>miel du Gatinais</i> of Orléans; the fried sole of +of Périgueux; the <i>rillettes</i> and <i>vins</i> of Tours; +the <i>miel du Gatinais</i> of Orléans; the fried sole of Chartres and Dieppe. In Normandy, sweet<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_174" id="Page_174">[Pg 174]</a></span> cider was often placed on the table instead of the mild <i>vin du pays</i>. The cheese, <i>patisserie</i>, and fruits were good everywhere.</p> <p>Another item, which we cannot overlook, -never appeared on the ménu and yet always +never appeared on the ménu and yet always flavored the whole repast. That was the geniality, the provincial hospitality, which greeted us in every little inn and hotel. The welcome was @@ -4790,7 +4753,7 @@ was like a green arbor.</p> were probably more familiar with town affairs than the current events of the outer world. We read in a local journal of a shopkeeper -who shouted a lusty "<i>Vive Faillières</i>," +who shouted a lusty "<i>Vive Faillières</i>," to greet the president's arrival. The mayor of one village threw himself in front of the presidential car, and threatened to commit suicide if @@ -4805,14 +4768,14 @@ peril.</p> in sight. The president had left the city only a few hours before our arrival. Decorations were still in their splendor. One <i>arc de triomphe</i> -bore the words "<i>Vive Poincaré</i>." Another +bore the words "<i>Vive Poincaré</i>." Another read, "<i>Nos fleurs et nos cœurs</i>." This popular ovation seems remarkable when we consider the strength of socialism in France, and the fact that Limoges is a socialistic center. The mayor, a socialist, refused to receive the president. The City Council was not present at the festivities of<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_176" id="Page_176">[Pg 176]</a></span> -welcome. Municipal buildings like the Hôtel +welcome. Municipal buildings like the Hôtel de Ville were not decorated. All this was in accordance with instructions received from the leaders of the socialistic party. It was even @@ -4857,10 +4820,10 @@ have painted them in their hearts.</p> <p>After Limoges, came Tours as the goal of the day's run through the pastoral beauties of -Limousin to the châteaux of Touraine. The +Limousin to the châteaux of Touraine. The air was crisp and clear. Two hours of easy running through the bright September sunshine -brought us to the Palais Hôtel in Poitiers before +brought us to the Palais Hôtel in Poitiers before noon—Poitiers, the city of old Romanesque churches and older traditions, where are living so many of the <i>vieille noblesse</i> who would rather @@ -4886,7 +4849,7 @@ to the blessings of hot and cold water. In Lyons, the third largest city of France, there is a popular saying that only millionaires have the <i>salle de bain</i> in their homes. These facts will help to -explain why the Hôtel Palais, with its many +explain why the Hôtel Palais, with its many bathrooms, made such an impression on us. We regret that our snapshot of this hotel did not turn out well. We would have had it @@ -4927,26 +4890,26 @@ the harvest moon growing brighter and larger on our right, while the sunset fires slowly changed from burning colors to dusky gray. Tours was in sight, Tours on the Loire, names -that we had always linked with the châteaux of +that we had always linked with the châteaux of Touraine. A multitude of lights gleamed from the plain below. Descending the hill, we -crossed the Loire to the Hôtel Metropole.</p> +crossed the Loire to the Hôtel Metropole.</p> <p>Tours was not what we had anticipated. One reads about the kings of France who resided -here, from Louis IX to François I. Plundering +here, from Louis IX to François I. Plundering Visigoths, ravaging Normans, Catholics and Huguenots, even the Germans in 1870, all in their turn assailed the unfortunate city. We looked for half-ruined palaces and vine-covered, crumbling walls. The reality spread a different picture. Aside from the streets and houses of -mediæval Tours, little remains of great historic +mediæval Tours, little remains of great historic interest. This large, busy industrial center produces so many articles that the list resembles a section from the new Tariff Act.</p> -<p>We enjoyed varying our châteaux excursions +<p>We enjoyed varying our châteaux excursions with rambles in the city. There are old gabled houses in the Rue du Change, where the overhanging <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_181" id="Page_181">[Pg 181]</a><br /></span>stories rest on brackets richly carved. @@ -4956,7 +4919,7 @@ to linger longer than we had intended. The ages have given such a warm, rich gray to the stones that the usual atmosphere of frozen grandeur was absent. Our interest in Gothic -glass and mediæval pillars was diverted by a +glass and mediæval pillars was diverted by a wedding that was going on in the cathedral. One of the priests, who was assisting in the ceremonies, left his duties to offer us his services as @@ -4970,7 +4933,7 @@ from Baedeker. The panorama showed the city spread out in a plain between the Loire and the Cher. We grew to have an intimate feeling for these old cathedral towers. When returning -along the Loire from our châteaux trips, +along the Loire from our châteaux trips, it was always a beautiful sight to see them in the distance, clear-cut and luminous, or looking like majestic shadows in the haze of @@ -4987,7 +4950,7 @@ twilight.</p> <h2><a name="CHAPTER_XIII" id="CHAPTER_XIII">CHAPTER XIII</a><br /> -THE CHÂTEAUX OF TOURAINE</h2> +THE CHÂTEAUX OF TOURAINE</h2> <p>Tours made a convenient headquarters @@ -5005,8 +4968,8 @@ was at its zenith.</p> <p>It was easy to plan our one-day trips so as to include on the same circuit several of the -most famous châteaux. The first day we -motored to Azay-le-Rideau, Chinon, Rigny-Ussé, +most famous châteaux. The first day we +motored to Azay-le-Rideau, Chinon, Rigny-Ussé, and Langeais, in the order named. The distances were short, perhaps one hundred and twenty-five kilometers in all, so that we @@ -5019,16 +4982,16 @@ before dark.</p> crossed the Loire, and traversing a wooded country with areas of vineyards and gardens, came to Azay-sur-Indre. There were not even -hints of a château, nothing but the aimless +hints of a château, nothing but the aimless cobbled streets of the typical French town. We halted beside a long wall which holds back the encroaching village and betrays no sign of the surprise in store within. Any one about -to see his first château would do well to visit +to see his first château would do well to visit Azay-le-Rideau, a veritable gem of Renaissance style. This graceful pile of white architecture, as seen to-day, belongs to the early part of the -sixteenth century. François I built it. That +sixteenth century. François I built it. That patron of the <i>beaux arts</i> has placed our twentieth century under lasting obligation. Every line is artistic. There is the picture of airy lightness @@ -5039,68 +5002,68 @@ work one forgets the ravages of the French Revolution. Passing over a small bridge, we followed the <i>gardien</i> through the sculptured doorway and up the grand staircase so often -ascended by François and his Parisian favorites.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_184" id="Page_184">[Pg 184]</a></span> +ascended by François and his Parisian favorites.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_184" id="Page_184">[Pg 184]</a></span> We were permitted to see the ancient kitchen and old kitchen utensils of wrought iron. Paintings and Flemish tapestries adorned the billiard room. The king's bedroom has a fine -specimen of rare mediæval flooring. The ballroom, +specimen of rare mediæval flooring. The ballroom, with its Gobelin tapestries, suggested the artistic luxury of the age. From nearly every window there were pleasing outlooks on a green woodland and on the sunny branch -of the Indre, which surrounds the château on +of the Indre, which surrounds the château on three sides. It was all a picture of peace. -Azay-le-Rideau is a château of elegance, instead +Azay-le-Rideau is a château of elegance, instead of defense. One could imagine it built by a king who had leisure to collect beautiful works of art and whose throne was not seriously threatened by invading armies.</p> -<p>Quite different from it is the château of +<p>Quite different from it is the château of Chinon, an immense ruined fortress built on a hill above the Vienne River. The walls are as impregnable as rocky cliffs. Chinon was the refuge of a king who had need of the strongest towers. Charles VII, still uncrowned, assembled here the States-General while the -English were besieging Orléans. It was a +English were besieging Orléans. It was a time of despair. The French were divided,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_185" id="Page_185">[Pg 185]</a></span> discouraged, helpless, their richest provinces overrun by English armies. At this lowest ebb of French history, a simple peasant girl came to Chinon. Only a solitary gable and chimneypiece -remain of the Grande Salle du Trône where +remain of the Grande Salle du Trône where Jeanne d'Arc told the king of her visions from heaven and of mysterious voices commanding her to save the nation. We entered the tower, her rude quarters till she departed a few weeks later to lead the French troops to the victory -of Orléans.</p> +of Orléans.</p> <p>After lunch we motored through the gardens -of Touraine to the magnificent château of -Ussé. The elegant grounds and surrounding +of Touraine to the magnificent château of +Ussé. The elegant grounds and surrounding woods formed an appropriate setting. Terraces descended to the wall below, where our view swept over a wide range of picturesque country, watered by the Indre. Much to our regret, we were not permitted to visit the -château, which is now occupied by a prominent +château, which is now occupied by a prominent French family.</p> <p>Langeais, a few miles away, gave us a more hospitable welcome. It is a superb stronghold upon the Loire, and has dark, frowning towers and a heavy drawbridge which looks very<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_186" id="Page_186">[Pg 186]</a></span> -mediæval. The widow of M. Siegfried, a +mediæval. The widow of M. Siegfried, a Parisian millionaire, lives here part of the year with her daughter. M. Siegfried, who bought -the château, was interested in art as well as +the château, was interested in art as well as in ships. He lavished his wealth to furnish the different rooms with furniture and <i>objets d'art</i> peculiar to the period. His will provides -that after the wife's death the château +that after the wife's death the château is to belong to the Institute of France, and that a sum equal to six thousand dollars is to be devoted to its upkeep. Other tourists @@ -5131,10 +5094,10 @@ to a memorable day.</p> </div> <p>The next morning ushered in one of those -golden fall days that seemed made for "châteauing." +golden fall days that seemed made for "châteauing." The swift kilometers soon carried us to Loches, that impressive combination of -state prison, Château Royal, and grim fortress +state prison, Château Royal, and grim fortress overlooking the valley of the Indre. So many horrible memories are linked with the prisons of Loches that we almost hesitate to record @@ -5152,7 +5115,7 @@ fashioned that the victims should stumble headlong to their fate. Our guide gave us a graphic description of this method of execution.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_188" id="Page_188">[Pg 188]</a></span> In that gloomy hole, his sudden climax of -"<i>Très horrible</i>," would have made any one +"<i>Très horrible</i>," would have made any one shiver. Some of these cells extend an interminable distance underground. It is not the most cheerful experience to descend deeper @@ -5192,11 +5155,11 @@ exposed to the elements, and on the other, he viewed the torments of fellow prisoners.</p> <p>We turned with relief to less hideous scenes, -to the apartments of the Château Royal, +to the apartments of the Château Royal, occupied by the irresolute Charles VII, the terrible Louis XI, and their successors; to the tower, from the top of which we had a commanding -view of the quaint, mediæval town +view of the quaint, mediæval town and the wandering Indre. Our guide did not forget to show us the tomb of Agnes Sorel, the beautiful mistress of Charles VII. Two @@ -5206,7 +5169,7 @@ The monument would have made an<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_190" id="Page appropriate resting place for a martyred saint.</p> <p>From Loches, we motored through a deep -forest to the château of Montrésor, well protected +forest to the château of Montrésor, well protected on its rocky height by a double encircling wall, flanked with towers. Once within these formidable barriers, we were delighted with @@ -5217,7 +5180,7 @@ and was small enough to look more like a home than a palace. The <i>concierge</i> spoke of a distinguished Polish family who occupied it part of the year. This was the first "home -château" we had seen. Everything looked +château" we had seen. Everything looked livable; there was warmth and coziness and refinement in the different rooms. We felt almost like intruders into this domestic atmosphere. @@ -5230,7 +5193,7 @@ Kings of Poland," consisting in part of the large gold dish and silver soup tureen presented to John Sobieski by the city of Vienna, and of <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_191" id="Page_191">[Pg 191]</a><br /></span>the silver-gilt services of Sobieski and of -Sigismond II, King of Poland. The château +Sigismond II, King of Poland. The château has a rich collection of works of art and souvenirs relating to the history of Poland.</p> @@ -5240,20 +5203,20 @@ relating to the history of Poland.</p> <p class="center"><i>The Chateau of Chenonceaux</i> <i>Page 191</i></p></div> </div> -<p>The Hôtel de France nearby spread before -us a ménu so good that we confiscated the <i>carte +<p>The Hôtel de France nearby spread before +us a ménu so good that we confiscated the <i>carte du jour</i> as a souvenir.</p> <p>Eagerly we looked forward to Chenonceaux, built on the Cher, most exquisite of the French -châteaux and for centuries the rendezvous of wit +châteaux and for centuries the rendezvous of wit and beauty. Motor cars lined the roadside by the gates of the park. Some of the visitors had driven in carriages from the nearest railway stations. We sauntered down an avenue of trees to a large garden, rather a formal piece of landscape work. The drawbridge offered access -to the château. François I purchased it. +to the château. François I purchased it. Later, Henry II, ascending the throne, gave it to his mistress, Diane de Poitiers. The French women of that day had a big share in the @@ -5265,7 +5228,7 @@ Twelve years later, the death of Henry II gave<span class="pagenum"><a name="Pag his widow, Catherine de' Medici, a chance to relieve her embittered feelings. She forced Diane to exchange Chenonceaux for another -château. Upon the bridge built by her rival, +château. Upon the bridge built by her rival, Catherine erected a long gallery, surmounted by a banqueting hall. This fairy-like structure is so strangely placed, one is reminded of a fantastic @@ -5281,7 +5244,7 @@ generations of kings took their pleasure there, and a long line of brilliant and beautiful women makes its history like a rope of pearls." Even the gloomy, plotting Catherine did nothing to -disturb the peaceful records and gorgeous <i>fêtes</i> +disturb the peaceful records and gorgeous <i>fêtes</i> of Chenonceaux. In the "<i>chambre de Diane de Poitiers</i>" we saw a painting representing Catherine. Those cold, brooding eyes looked capable @@ -5290,11 +5253,11 @@ Guise to the massacre of St. Bartholomew.</p> <p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_193" id="Page_193">[Pg 193]</a></span></p> -<p>Two other châteaux of our itinerary still remained, +<p>Two other châteaux of our itinerary still remained, Amboise and Blois, the latter perhaps the most famous of them all. We decided to -visit these châteaux <i>en route</i> down the valley of -Loire to Orléans. The following morning we +visit these châteaux <i>en route</i> down the valley of +Loire to Orléans. The following morning we bade farewell to Tours. The road swept us along the left bank of the Loire, all aglitter in the September sunshine. What a wonderful stream @@ -5307,15 +5270,15 @@ through a smiling land. "Perhaps no stream, in so short a portion of its course, has so much history to tell."<a name="FNanchor_6_6" id="FNanchor_6_6"></a><a href="#Footnote_6_6" class="fnanchor">[6]</a> Along its banks flourished for three centuries the court of the Valois kings. -There are vineyards, the remains of mediæval +There are vineyards, the remains of mediæval forests, little villages that have scarcely changed -in a hundred years, and splendid châteaux like +in a hundred years, and splendid châteaux like those of Blois, Chaumont, Chambord, and Amboise, almost reflecting their towers in the water and rich in the wonders of the French Renaissance.</p> <p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_194" id="Page_194">[Pg 194]</a></span></p> -<p>Of all the châteaux along the Loire, Amboise +<p>Of all the châteaux along the Loire, Amboise enjoys the finest situation. From across the river we could see this dark Gothic mass rising from its cliff-like walls to dominate the town @@ -5331,7 +5294,7 @@ On the terrace is a bust of Leonardo da Vinci, who died here in 1519. The name of Catherine de' Medici is connected with a frightful scene that occurred in the courtyard. A Huguenot -conspiracy to capture the youthful François II +conspiracy to capture the youthful François II was discovered. The fierce Catherine not only witnessed the executions from a balcony, but insisted upon the company of her horrified @@ -5346,7 +5309,7 @@ Catherine seems to have had a peculiar fondness for these innocent and edifying spectacles. We descended the spiral roadway of the colossal tower up which Emperor Charles V rode on -horseback when he visited François I. This +horseback when he visited François I. This inclined plane was so perfect and gradual that our motor car could have climbed it with ease.</p> @@ -5357,9 +5320,9 @@ our motor car could have climbed it with ease.</p> </div> <p>Recrossing the Loire, we rode on to Blois for -lunch at that famous hostelry, the Hôtel +lunch at that famous hostelry, the Hôtel d'Angleterre, close by the river's edge. To the -château of Blois belongs historical preëminence. +château of Blois belongs historical preëminence. This great castle was the center of French history in the sixteenth century. Elaborate and imposing, Blois recalls the splendor of the age @@ -5398,32 +5361,32 @@ seems greater in death than in life."</p> <h2><a name="CHAPTER_XIV" id="CHAPTER_XIV">CHAPTER XIV</a><br /> -ORLÉANS TO DIEPPE</h2> +ORLÉANS TO DIEPPE</h2> -<p>Leaving the châteaux country, we proceeded -to Orléans in the lower part of the -Loire valley, spending the night at the Hôtel +<p>Leaving the châteaux country, we proceeded +to Orléans in the lower part of the +Loire valley, spending the night at the Hôtel Saint Aignan. The general appearance of the city is prosperous and modern. The walls which once surrounded it have been turned into -promenades. Everything in Orléans seems +promenades. Everything in Orléans seems connected with Jeanne d'Arc. There is a bronze equestrian statue with bas-reliefs of the "Maid" who, clad in white armor, led her soldiers from victory to victory. We hope sometime to be -present at the brilliant "Fête de Jeanne d'Arc," +present at the brilliant "Fête de Jeanne d'Arc," which is held every year on May 8, in commemoration -of her raising the siege of Orléans +of her raising the siege of Orléans in 1429. Small shops display postal cards -representing scenes from her life. The Musée +representing scenes from her life. The Musée is filled with interesting souvenirs. In the cathedral, where the people worship her as a saint, we saw on the walls votive tablets bearing inscriptions of gratitude to her for recovery from sickness. In the same street is the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_198" id="Page_198">[Pg 198]</a></span> "Maison de Jeanne d'Arc" where she was -received by the Duc d'Orléans during the eventful +received by the Duc d'Orléans during the eventful siege. That morning was filled with an interesting series of historical sidelights.</p> @@ -5442,7 +5405,7 @@ scenery to compare with the beauty of the lowlands, where every mood of heaven, every change of sky, is part of a wonderful picture. The weather, which was threatening when we -left Orléans, now looked more and more like a +left Orléans, now looked more and more like a storm. No shelter was in sight, nothing but the open country, the great dome of heaven, and the road ever narrowing ahead of us until its @@ -5535,7 +5498,7 @@ meadows, would not thrive in French pastures. It would be taxed out of existence.</p> <p>Hardly had we sat down to lunch in the -Hôtel du Grand Cerf of Nonancourt when +Hôtel du Grand Cerf of Nonancourt when there was a great shouting and beating of drums outside. A group of conscripts marched noisily by. They wore red, white, and blue @@ -5738,7 +5701,7 @@ the hands of the routine-ridden diplomats?"</p> </div> <p>For nearly twenty miles the road cut a white -swath through the treeless plain of St. André to +swath through the treeless plain of St. André to the cathedral town of Evreux. The wheat fields and cathedrals of Normandy should be mentioned in the same sentence. France, so full of @@ -5748,10 +5711,10 @@ still miles away from any town. We zigzagged into the valley of Iton, climbed, swooped downward, and crossing that hurrying stream, ran beside the river Eure into the main street of -Louviers. The warning, "<i>Allure modère</i>," was +Louviers. The warning, "<i>Allure modère</i>," was unnecessary. The cobble stones were sufficient to make us slacken speed. The beauty of the -church of Nôtre Dame served to stop us completely. +church of Nôtre Dame served to stop us completely. The church, with its profuse embroidery of rich, delicate carving, shone like a jewel amid the motley and jumbled houses. It @@ -5761,10 +5724,10 @@ forest of Pont de l'Arche to the town of the same<span class="pagenum"><a name=" name, where we crossed the Seine, past bright little Norman cottages, our route shot ahead to Rouen, the center of cotton manufacturing for -France, the most interesting mediæval city in +France, the most interesting mediæval city in Normandy, and renowned the world over for splendid Gothic churches. After inspecting the -rooms of two or three hotels, we chose the Hôtel +rooms of two or three hotels, we chose the Hôtel d'Angleterre, close by the crowded traffic of the Seine.</p> @@ -5795,10 +5758,10 @@ strange shadows from the great slouching dogs!"<a name="FNanchor_8_8" id="FNanch open iron work, more than one and a half times as high as the steeple of Trinity Church in New York. One seldom sees anything so quaintly -picturesque as the little wooden cloister, Aître +picturesque as the little wooden cloister, Aître Saint-Maclou. From its courtyard, the burial ground for so many victims of the Black Death -of 1348, one sees mediæval spires which rise in +of 1348, one sees mediæval spires which rise in all directions. Another vivid reminder of the past is the archway of the Grosse Horloge, with its huge clock in colors of blue and gold @@ -5806,7 +5769,7 @@ and dating from the sixteenth century.</p> <p>But the impressions of Rouen that thrilled us most related to the sad closing days of Jeanne -d'Arc. At Orléans we saw her in the hour of +d'Arc. At Orléans we saw her in the hour of victory, a young girl dictating to experienced generals, cutting her way through the English army around the city and bringing provisions @@ -5827,7 +5790,7 @@ many horses,—big, powerful creatures. Normandy breeds and exports them. Apple orchards were in constant view. Coasting down a long hill into the city, we left the car in the -garage of the Grand Hôtel, and joined an +garage of the Grand Hôtel, and joined an enthusiastic crowd which was watching a football game between Dieppe and Rouen.</p> @@ -5880,7 +5843,7 @@ quaint costumes and customs, and caught the simple melody of their songs. We have gone close to palaces, and wondered whether prince or peasant were the happier. We have seen -châteaux that were tragedies and cathedrals +châteaux that were tragedies and cathedrals that were poems. We have seen the conscripts file slowly past, each surrendering three years of the most important period of his life. Then, @@ -6043,9 +6006,9 @@ we averaged one dollar and ten cents a gallon.</p> expected to find them much higher. Two dollars or two dollars and a half was sufficient as a rule to cover dinner, chamber, and breakfast. -For instance, our rooms at the Hôtel +For instance, our rooms at the Hôtel de France cost one dollar each, the dinner -<i>table d'hôte</i> seventy-five cents each, and breakfast +<i>table d'hôte</i> seventy-five cents each, and breakfast thirty cents, the usual prices which secured us satisfactory accommodations nearly everywhere in France. Every hotel had its garage, @@ -6187,7 +6150,7 @@ as follows:</p> <div class="center"> <table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> <tr><td align="left"> </td><td>FRANCS</td><td>CENTIMES</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">Garçon</td><td> </td><td align="left">50</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left">Garçon</td><td> </td><td align="left">50</td></tr> <tr><td align="left">Femme de chambre</td><td> </td><td align="left">50</td></tr> <tr><td align="left">Valet de chambre</td><td> </td><td align="left">50</td></tr> <tr><td align="left">Concierge</td><td>1</td><td> </td></tr> @@ -6202,7 +6165,7 @@ him ten or fifteen <i>centimes</i>. If extra service was rendered, we paid for it accordingly. This scale of tipping secured us good service in the small provincial towns. In the larger places -the <i>maître de l'hôtel</i> (head waiter) plays a more +the <i>maître de l'hôtel</i> (head waiter) plays a more important role and ranks in tipping dignity with the <i>concierge</i>. In Italy the equivalent of four cents per person would be considered @@ -6279,382 +6242,6 @@ France," in <i>Scribner's Magazine</i>, February, 1914.</p></div> The Illustration captions were printed without accents. 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