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diff --git a/41569.txt b/41569.txt deleted file mode 100644 index 62b7e06..0000000 --- a/41569.txt +++ /dev/null @@ -1,21766 +0,0 @@ -The Project Gutenberg eBook, Jerusalem Explored, Volume I--Text, by Ermete -Pierotti, Translated by Thomas George Bonney - - -This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with -almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or -re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included -with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org - - - - - -Title: Jerusalem Explored, Volume I--Text - Being a Description of the Ancient and Modern City, with Numerous Illustrations Consisting of Views, Ground Plans and Sections - - -Author: Ermete Pierotti - - - -Release Date: December 6, 2012 [eBook #41569] - -Language: English - -Character set encoding: ISO-646-US (US-ASCII) - - -***START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK JERUSALEM EXPLORED, VOLUME -I--TEXT*** - - -E-text prepared by Sigal Alon, Gary Rees, and the Online Distributed -Proofreading Team (http://www.pgdp.net) from page images generously made -available by the Jewish National and University Library Digitized Book -Repository (http://jnul.huji.ac.il/eng/digibook.html) - - - -Note: Images of the original pages are available through - the Jewish National and University Library Digitized - Book Repository. See - http://aleph.nli.org.il/nnl/dig/books/bk001202937.html - - -Transcriber's note: - - Greek words and phrases in the Greek alphabet have been - transliterated and are surrounded by plus signs (+) in - this transcription (example: +spelaion+). - - Footnotes in the original publication were numbered at the - page level. E.g., if a page had three footnotes, they were - numbered 1, 2 & 3, and footnote numbering began with 1 on - each page on which notes appeared. For this transcription, - all 903 footnotes have been renumbered sequentially, from 1 - to 903, and footnotes for a given chapter have been placed - at the end of the chapter. - - - - - -JERUSALEM EXPLORED - -Being a Description of the Ancient and Modern City. - - -[Illustration: University Press Logo] - - -Cambridge: -Printed by C. J. Clay, M.A. -At the University Press. - - -JERUSALEM EXPLORED - -Being a Description of the Ancient and Modern City, - -With Numerous Illustrations -Consisting of Views, Ground Plans, and Sections, - -by - -ERMETE PIEROTTI, - -Doctor of Mathematics, and Architect-Engineer, Civil and Military, to -His Excellency Surraya Pasha of Jerusalem. - -Translated by Thomas George Bonney, M.A., F.G.S. - -Fellow of St John's College, Cambridge. - -VOLUME I.--TEXT. - - - - - - - -[Illustration: Printer's Logo] - -London: Bell and Daldy, Fleet Street. -Cambridge: Deighton, Bell, and Co. -M.DCCC.LXIV. - -[The right of Translation is reserved.] - - - - -TO HIS IMPERIAL MAJESTY - -NAPOLEON III. - -Emperor of the French, - -PROTECTOR OF THE HOLY PLACES, - - - -THIS CONTRIBUTION - -TO ARCHAEOLOGICAL SCIENCE, - -IN WHICH HE IS HIMSELF A PROFICIENT, - -IS BY HIS MAJESTY'S AUGUST PERMISSION INSCRIBED, - -BY HIS OBEDIENT SERVANT, - - - -ERMETE PIEROTTI. - - - - -_PALAIS DES TUILERIES, LE 26 NOV. 1861._ - -_CABINET DE L'EMPEREUR._ - - -_MONSIEUR,_ - -_L'EMPEREUR ME CHARGE D'AVOIR L'HONNEUR DE VOUS INFORMER QUE, SELON VOS -DESIRS, SA MAJESTE VEUT BIEN ACCEPTER LA DEDICACE DE VOTRE OUVRAGE SUR -LES MONUMENTS ET LES LOCALITES DE LA PALESTINE[1]._ - -_AGREEZ, MONSIEUR, L'ASSURANCE DE MA CONSIDERATION DISTINGUEE._ - -_POUR LE SECRETAIRE DE L'EMPEREUR, CHEF DU CABINET ET PAR AUTORISATION._ - -_LE Ss. CHEF._ - -_JACALEY._ - - - -_LE DR. E. PIEROTTI._ - -_11 RUE DES DEUX BOULES, PARIS._ - - -[1] Of which Work this is intended as the first part. - - - - -PREFACE. - - -On the subject of Jerusalem many books in various languages have already -been published; but I venture to think that there is still room for -another, as most of them are open to objections of different kinds. Some -authors have erred in being carried away by their subject, and -disappoint the reader by substituting their own reflexions for the -information that he desires to acquire. Some, with the eye of fancy, -seem to behold the shades of Kings, of Prophets, and of Heroes, -wandering among their tombs, or haunting the ruins of Sion; others, -after a short stay in Jerusalem, return to their own homes and publish -books, composed of fragments of classic lore, and the traditions they -have gathered from the guides who have accompanied them in the visits to -the Holy Places; some indeed going so far as to denounce as heretics and -infidels all who do not lend a ready belief to these tales. Lastly, -there are some who, without visiting Jerusalem, and consequently without -a minute knowledge of its topography, rely upon the information they -have gathered from the accounts of others, to reconstruct the ancient -walls, the Temple, and other buildings, and endeavour to overthrow the -conclusions which have been formed after a prolonged residence in the -country and much careful observation. - -In the works of all these authors there is much that is interesting, but -the description of what is really to be seen is always more or less -defective. I have accordingly endeavoured to supply this want during my -residence in the Holy City, and now present to my readers the fruits of -eight years of continual labour, devoted to a study of the topography of -Jerusalem upon the spot, in which I have been constantly occupied in -excavating and removing the rubbish accumulated over the place during so -many centuries, in retracing the walls, in examining the monuments and -ancient remains, and in penetrating and traversing the conduits and -vaults; so that I trust I am in a position to throw some fresh light -upon the subject of Jewish Archaeology. In arranging the plan of my work, -I have rested chiefly upon the Bible, the traditions of the Rabbis, and -the works of Josephus, and have made but little use of any other -authorities upon the ancient topography of the city; but, to compensate -for this, I have made excavations and watched those made by others, have -formed intimacies with the inhabitants of the country, have sought for -information on the spot, regardless of personal risk, have worked with -my own hands under the ground, and so have obtained much knowledge of -that which lies below the surface of the soil in Jerusalem; and have -pursued my purpose, at one time with bribes, at another with force, and -always with patience, perseverance, and courage. - -But my efforts would have been of little avail had it not been for the -constant protection and assistance of His Excellency Surraya Pasha, of -M. de Barrere, the French Consul, and his Chancellor, M. Aime Dequie, -who lost no opportunity of publicly testifying their esteem and regard -for me. I must not forget to express my gratitude to the Ecclesiastical -authorities, who have also shewn me great kindness. - -That I have been able to publish my book in England is due to the Rev. -George Williams, Fellow of King's College, Cambridge, who, when he had -heard of my discoveries in the Holy City,--a place so dear and so full -of interest to him,--invited me to this University, gave me a truly -English welcome, and aided me to the utmost of his power in -accomplishing my desire. - -For the translation of my Italian manuscript into English, I am indebted -to the Rev. T. G. Bonney, Fellow of St John's College, whom I have also -to thank for several useful suggestions and corrections. I must also -express my obligations to Mr R. W. Taylor, Fellow of the same College, -who, in order to expedite the publication of the book, kindly undertook -to assist his friend by translating the Notes. - -The proof-sheets have been corrected by Mr Bonney, and revised by Mr -Williams, and by the Rev. John E. B. Mayor, Fellow of S. John's College, -who has not only been at the pains to collate them with my manuscript, -but has also aided me with his great learning and experience. I cannot -find terms adequate to express my gratitude to these three gentlemen for -their constant kindness and friendly care. Nor can I refrain from -thanking my numerous friends in this University, who have contributed to -render my sojourn among them at once pleasant and profitable; with whom -I have spent many happy hours, the memory of which will not leave me -during the rest of my life. - -And now I present my book to the reader, apologizing for its many -deficiencies, and trusting that he will be an indulgent critic. It does -not profess to be more than a simple and strict record of facts, and -therefore I must ask him to pardon me if it be sometimes rather dull and -dry. I have purposely avoided, as much as possible, all that would -interfere with the main end of the work, such as personal reminiscences -and unimportant details; wishing rather to put forward facts than -theories, to rely upon sight rather than imagination. Most thankfully -shall I receive friendly correction and criticism, or suggestions and -advice for my conduct in the new investigations which I hope to make in -Palestine. As regards those which I have described in the following -pages, I can honestly say that I have spared no pains to make them as -complete as possible; and though they have cost me much time and money, -much anxiety and fatigue, still, if I succeed in throwing any additional -light upon Jewish antiquities, or in exciting a more general interest -upon such an important subject, I shall feel that I have not laboured in -vain. - -ERMETE PIEROTTI. - -CAMBRIDGE, _December 15th, 1863_. - - - - -CONTENTS. - - - CHAPTER I. PAGE - - ORIGIN OF THE NAME JERUSALEM--HISTORY--TOPOGRAPHY AND GENERAL - ASPECT--CLIMATE--POPULATION--WATERS 1 - - - CHAPTER II. - - ANCIENT TOPOGRAPHY OF JERUSALEM--IDENTIFICATION OF THE - MOUNTAINS, HILLS AND VALLEYS--JERUSALEM IN THE TIME OF THE - JEBUSITES, DAVID, SOLOMON, JOTHAM, HEZEKIAH, MANASSEH, - NEHEMIAH, HEROD--THE TESTIMONY OF JOSEPHUS EXAMINED--THE - SIEGE BY TITUS--FORMER EXTENT OF THE CITY--JERUSALEM IN THE - TIME OF HADRIAN, THE CRUSADERS AND SOLYMAN 16 - - - CHAPTER III. - - MOUNT MORIAH AND ITS ENVIRONS--HISTORY IN THE TIME OF - ABRAHAM, JACOB, DAVID, SOLOMON, ZERUBBABEL, ALEXANDER THE - GREAT, ANTIOCHUS EPIPHANES, THE MACCABEES, POMPEIUS, CRASSUS, - THE HERODS, TITUS, HADRIAN, CONSTANTINE, JULIAN THE APOSTATE, - OMAR, ABD-EL-MALEK, VALID OR ELULID, THE CRUSADERS, SALADIN, - SELIM I., SOLYMAN I.--GENERAL EXAMINATION OF MORIAH, WITH - DETAILS OF THE INVESTIGATIONS 45 - - - CHAPTER IV. - - THE CHURCH OF THE RESURRECTION, AND THE HOSPITAL OF S. JOHN, - WITH THEIR ENVIRONS--HISTORY OF THE HOLY SEPULCHRE FROM THE - DEATH OF CHRIST TO THE PRESENT TIME--GENUINENESS OF THE - SEPULCHRE--GOLGOTHA--EXAMINATION OF THE EXTERIOR AND INTERIOR - OF THE CHURCH--RUINS OF THE HOSPITAL 102 - - - CHAPTER V. - - INVESTIGATIONS IN THE VIA DOLOROSA (OR THE WAY OF THE CROSS). - THE RELIGIOUS AND OTHER REMARKABLE BUILDINGS IN IT OR IN ITS - NEIGHBOURHOOD AND IN THE REST OF THE CITY, TOGETHER WITH ALL - THE CONVENTS OF THE DIFFERENT RELIGIOUS COMMUNITIES 135 - - - CHAPTER VI. - - EXCURSIONS IN THE NEIGHBOURHOOD OF THE CITY ON THE EAST, - SOUTH, AND SOUTH-WEST--THE VALLEY OF KIDRON, CALLED ALSO THE - VALLEY OF JEHOSHAPHAT, WITH ITS MONUMENTS AND REMARKABLE - PLACES--THE MOUNT OF OLIVES--BETHPHAGE--BETHANY--THE VALLEY - OF HINNOM--THE MOUNT OF EVIL COUNSEL--SOUTH-WESTERN PART OF - THE VALLEY OF GIHON--MOUNT SION--CHRISTIAN CEMETERIES--TOMB - OF DAVID, AND SUBTERRANEAN VAULTS--THE COENACULUM--THE HOUSE - OF CAIAPHAS--THE GROTTO OF S. PETER--THE LEPERS 167 - - - CHAPTER VII. - - EXCURSIONS IN THE NEIGHBOURHOOD OF THE CITY ON THE NORTH AND - WEST--THE MONUMENT OF HELENA OF ADIABENE, AND THE CHURCH - DEDICATED TO S. STEPHEN--ROYAL CAVERNS--GROTTO OF - JEREMIAH--HOUSE OF THE VINE--TOMBS OF THE KINGS--SHEIKH - JERRAH--ANCIENT SYNAGOGUE--TOMB OF SIMON THE JUST--TOMBS AT - THE HEAD OF THE KIDRON VALLEY--KIDRON POOL--VARIOUS TOMBS ON - THE NORTH-WEST--TOMBS OF THE JUDGES--SHEIKH AYMAR--RUSSIAN - BUILDINGS--VALLEY OF GIHON--BIRKET MAMILLAH--MONUMENT OF - HEROD, AND RUINS OF THE CHURCH OF S. BABYLAS--GREEK CONVENT - OF THE HOLY CROSS--PROPERTY OF THE ARCHIMANDRITE NICOFORUS 223 - - - CHAPTER VIII. - - ON THE WATERS, FIT OR UNFIT FOR DRINKING, IN JERUSALEM AND - ITS NEIGHBOURHOOD 245 - - - CHAPTER IX. - - GENERAL REMARKS UPON THE PRESENT STATE OF THE CITY OF - JERUSALEM 262 - - * * * * * - - NOTES 281 - - - CHRONOLOGICAL SUMMARY 311 - - - PRINCIPAL PASSAGES FROM THE HOLY BIBLE 315 - - - PASSAGES FROM JOSEPHUS'S ANTIQUITIES OF THE JEWS 323 - - - PASSAGES FROM JOSEPHUS'S HISTORY OF THE JEWISH WAR 327 - - - INDEX 333 - - - - -CORRIGENDA ET ADDENDA. - - - Page 7, line 30, _for_ Hulda _read_ Huldah - Page 10, line 33, _for_ and in 1859 _read_ and in 1861 - Page 14, line 2, and page 15, lines 6 and 13, _for_ Sherif _read_ - Sherif - Page 37, line 8, _for_ Barrere _read_ Barrere - Page 43, line 28, _for_ Willebrand _read_ Willibrand - Page 106, line 5, and page 117, line 14, _for_ Abbot _read_ Abbe - Page 145, line 23, _for_ then _read_ be thou - Page 155, head line, _for_ Greek Synagogue _read_ Great Synagogue - Page 207, line 18, _for_ 260 _read_ 270 - Page 210, last line, _for_ Note XXII. _read_ Note XVI. - -Chapter 1. The numbers of the different nations and sects that inhabit -Jerusalem were taken by the Author, in the service of Surraya Pasha, in -the year 1861. - -Vols. I. and II. of the Gesta Dei per Francos, referred to in the body -of the work, form 'Tomus Primus Orientalis Historiae.' The pages are -numbered continuously, and, according to Dr Robinson, the book usually -forms only one volume. This, however, was not observed by the translator -in verifying the references until the earlier sheets were struck off. -Sanutus' Liber Secretorum fidelium Crucis forms 'Tomus Secundus -Orientalis Historiae.' An account of most of the earlier books referred -to in this work will be found in Dr Robinson's Biblical Researches, Vol. -III. First Appendix, pp. 3-27 (1st Edition). La Citez de Jherusalem, -contained in M. de Vogue's work, Les Eglises de la Terre Sainte, is also -printed in the Rev. G. Williams' Holy City, Vol. 1. Appendix II. pp. -134--142 (2nd Edition). - - - - -JERUSALEM EXPLORED. - - - - -CHAPTER I. - - ORIGIN OF THE NAME JERUSALEM--HISTORY--TOPOGRAPHY AND GENERAL - ASPECT--CLIMATE--POPULATION--WATERS. - - -Most authors agree in identifying the Salem of Melchizedek[2] with -Jerusalem. S. Jerome[3] however asserts that the residence of the King -of Righteousness was in the east of Judea, three leagues to the south of -the city of Scythopolis, and not far from the Jordan, supporting his -opinion by the fact that in his time a town still existed there called -Salim (_Salumias_), not far from which was Aenon[4], where S. John -Baptist baptized. The Arabs of the Jordan guided me to Salumias and to a -neighbouring valley, which I identify with "the valley of Shaveh[5] -(_the plain_), which is the king's dale." We are told that Abraham met -Melchizedek and the king of Sodom on his return from the successful -attack on the invaders, and it seems incredible that he should have gone -by Jerusalem to Hebron, thus uselessly prolonging his journey by passing -through a strange country. Nor would it be said that the king of Sodom -went out "_to meet him in the valley of the plain_," but rather "_to -seek him in the king's dale in the mountains_," nor would Melchizedek -have been received by Abraham, but they would have met in Salem[6]. For -these reasons I believe Salem and Jerusalem to be two distinct places. -There is, however, no doubt that Jerusalem was the city of the -Jebusites, a nation descended and named from Jebus, son of Canaan. - -It is difficult to fix the period when it acquired the name of Jerusalem -(_Yerush-shalom_, Inheritance of Peace,) for the use of the word in -Joshua x. 1, xii. 10, Judges i. 21, does not prove that it was older -than the period of the conquest. The Emperor Hadrian called it _Aelia -Capitolina_. The City is named _El Kuds_, or _Beit el Makdus_ (the Holy -House), by the Arabic writers of the middle ages. It is possible that it -may have borne this name at a much earlier period, as Cadytis[7], a -great city of Syria, taken by Necho, king of Egypt, may be Jerusalem; -Cadytis being only a corruption of the Aramaic _Kadishtha_ (the Holy). -Some suppose that _Jerusalem_ has been formed by the union of _Jebus_ -and _Salem_, the _b_ being changed into _r_, but the Hebrew form of the -word does not admit of this transformation. The derivation given by -Lysimachus[8] is amusing from its absurdity. He asserts that in the time -of Bocchoris, king of Egypt, the Jews were expelled from that country by -the order of the Sun-god, who was disgusted at the diseased and leprous -condition of the race, and visited the land with a famine; that being -led by Moses, they travelled over the desert; and "the difficulties of -the journey being over, they came to a country inhabited; and there they -abused the men, and plundered and burnt their temples; and then came -into that land which is called Judea, and there they built a city and -dwelt therein; and that their city was named _Hierosyla_, from this -robbing of the temples; but that still, upon the success they had -afterwards, they in time changed its denomination, that it might not be -a reproach to them, and called the city _Hierosolyma_, and themselves -_Hierosolymites_." - -Adonizedek was king of Jerusalem at the time of the conquest under -Joshua[9]. He fell in battle against the Jews, near Gibeon, and some -time after the lower town was taken by them. The Jebusites[10], however, -still remained in it, among the descendants of Judah and Benjamin, and -were not driven from the upper town till the eighth year of David's -reign, when their stronghold was taken by storm[11], and the place -became the capital of his kingdom. Jerusalem attained to its highest -pitch of grandeur under the government of Solomon, being the centre of -commerce, civilization, and religion. After the division of the Tribes, -it continued to be the capital of the kingdom of Judah. In the fifth -year of Rehoboam it was taken and sacked by Shishak[12], king of Egypt. -In the reign of Jehoram[13] bands of Philistines and Arabs entered the -city, plundered the king's palace, and carried his wives and sons into -captivity. In the reign of Amaziah[14] it was sacked by Joash king of -Israel. It was unsuccessfully threatened by the Assyrians in the days of -Hezekiah[15]. Manasseh[16] fortified the western side of the city and -Ophel, but it was laid waste by the Chaldeans under Nebuchadnezzar[17]. - -After a captivity of half a century, the Jews were permitted by Cyrus to -rebuild it, but, owing to the opposition of their enemies, the work was -not completed till the time of Nehemiah. Jerusalem was involved in the -troubles caused by the fall of the Persian Empire. The city opened its -gates to Alexander, who not only treated it with humanity, but also -conferred upon it several privileges. After his death it was taken by -Ptolemy, son of Lagus, king of Egypt. Under the Ptolemies, and for a -while under the Seleucidae, it on the whole enjoyed peace and honour, -until the barbarity of the tyrant Antiochus Epiphanes renewed the -sorrows of the unhappy city. The heroic sons of the house of Mattathias -delivered their country from this yoke, and it remained under the -princes of the Asmonean family until Palestine was conquered by the -Romans. Pompeius the Great, who entered Jerusalem as a conqueror 63 -B.C., respected the lives and property of the inhabitants. The temple -was protected by him, only to be plundered by Crassus. The liberality of -Herod the Great added much to the splendour of Jerusalem; but after his -death the spirit of sedition spread more and more every day among the -Jews, producing frequent revolts against the Romans, which were -terminated by the destruction of the city by Titus, A.D. 71. Thus were -the predictions of the prophets fulfilled. - -After lying in ruins for sixty years it was rebuilt by the Emperor -Hadrian upon a part of its former site, and called Aelia Capitolina[18]; -but the Jews were forbidden to enter it under pain of death. When -Christianity triumphed in the reign of Constantine, the heathen temples -were replaced by churches in honour of every memorial of the Saviour's -life and death. - -Chosroes II., king of the Persians, took the city by assault, A.D. 614; -it was regained by the Emperor Heraclius A.D. 629, and again taken by -the Khalif Omar A.D. 636. After this it was successively under the -dominion of the Persian Khalifs, of the Fatimites of Egypt, and of the -Seljukians, in whose time the Crusades were commenced, owing to the -preaching of Peter the Hermit. The Christian army, led by Godfrey of -Bouillon, entered the Holy City A.D. 1099. The Latin kingdom was brought -to an end by the victories of Saladin A.D. 1187. Sultan Malek el-Kamel -ceded the city to Frederick II. of Germany, but it was recovered by the -Mohammedans under Jenghiz Khan, A.D. 1244. It then remained subject to -the different dynasties of the Sultans of Egypt and Syria, until it was -conquered by the Turks under Selim I. A.D. 1517. Ibrahim Pasha of Egypt -took possession of it A.D. 1832, but the Great Powers restored it to the -Porte A.D. 1840[19]. The spirit of the present Turkish government, -influenced as it is by the nations of Europe, induces us to think that a -happier and more peaceful future is in store for Jerusalem, and that -under their protection the furious contests, so common among the rival -sects of Christians, who struggle for the possession of the Holy -Places, will be appeased. By these quarrels only will the soil of -Jerusalem be stained with blood, not by the fanaticism of the -Mohammedan; he is, and will be, restrained by the power of the local -authorities, the energy of the Consuls, and the bribes paid by the -Convents to pacify the more restless spirits. We may also hope that -European civilization will speedily penetrate into Palestine, and that -Jerusalem will become an inviolable asylum, open to every devout man; -for all, without distinction of creed, are entitled to mourn, to hope, -and to pray, on the spot consecrated by the sacrifice of our Divine -Master. - -The city of Jerusalem[20] is situated about 31 deg. 47' north latitude -and 33 deg. east longitude (Paris) in the highest part of the mountains -of Judea, and upon the ancient boundaries of the tribes of Judah and -Benjamin (Joshua xviii. 6). It is surrounded on every side by rising -ground, and therefore cannot be seen by the traveller until he -approaches near it. The most distant view of it is obtained from the -village of _Neby Samwil_[21] (Prophet Samuel), three hours (about twelve -miles) distant on the north-west; and it was from this height that the -first Crusaders, under Godfrey of Bouillon, saluted Jerusalem with -shouts of exultation. - -On the north the city is overshadowed by the mountain of _Shafat_ (fair -prospect), the ancient Scopus. It was from this position that Titus made -his first general survey of the city, which at that time he had no -intention of destroying[22]. On the east rises Mount Olivet; on the -south, an eminence known as the Hill of Evil Counsel, and also as the -Mount of the Sepulchres, from the great number of tombs existing there. -To the west are the summits of Mount Gihon. Valleys separate all these -mountains from the city and the high table-land to the north, entirely -surrounding it except on the north-west and a small portion of the north -side, where the ground is so nearly level as to admit of an easy -approach. - -On the north commences the valley of Kidron, at first not deep but -sinking as it approaches the east, and continuing to do so along the -whole of that side, until it reaches the lower extremity of the gardens -of Siloam. Here it unites with the valley of Hinnom, which runs parallel -to the south of the city. On the west is the valley of Gihon, which is -very deep at the point where it takes the name of Hinnom, on the -south-west. From this conformation of the ground, it is obvious that, in -times when only the weapons and military engines of ancient warfare were -employed, the city was an important stronghold, well defended by nature, -except on the north-west and a small portion of the north side, where -the almost level ground exposed it to an attack. From the most remote -periods of antiquity until the time of the Crusades and Saladin, -Jerusalem was invariably assaulted at these points by those who made -themselves masters of the city. - -A few olive-trees, a bare argillaceous soil scattered over with stones -and flints, some ruins of ancient sepulchres, four water-tanks, some -cisterns almost entirely dilapidated, and bare rocks, some of which -exhibit traces of chiselling, are the only objects that meet the eye -throughout the whole region of the north and north-west. - -On the east, along the course of the valley of Kidron, nothing is seen -but rocks and accumulations of earth and rubbish: these continue -likewise along the south, but the desolate effect is somewhat concealed -by the growth of vegetation, and by the gardens of the peasants of -Siloam. The ruins still existing, and the nature of the soil, which is -mostly grey in colour and full of lime, shew that the ground on this -side was once occupied by houses. Finally, on the west are seen the -reservoir of Mamillah, accumulations of earth and rubbish, argillaceous -soil, bare rocks, and a few recent plantations,--the work of the -improver of cultivation in Palestine, the Greek Archimandrite, -Nicoferus. - -As may be inferred from this description, the environs of Jerusalem -present an appearance of wretchedness and desolation, that cannot fail -to strike the eye of the traveller: and the feeling of melancholy is -further increased by the thought that the Holy City itself is surrounded -by tombs which are daily being opened, and that the inhabitants have -only cemeteries for their public promenades. The memories of the past -alone are able to attract the traveller and the pilgrim to -Jerusalem,--not its present condition; for the miserable spectacle -presented by the monuments still existing above ground would certainly -not repay the trouble and fatigue of so long a journey. But those -memories, together with the subterranean remains, afford ample -recompense to any one possessing imagination and religious feeling, who -wishes to study the Bible in its own peculiar country, where its use -will inevitably lead him to the truth. - -During the past few years several buildings have been erected in the -neighbourhood of Jerusalem, more especially on the north-west. Of these, -the most remarkable, both for their extent and for their site, which -commands the city on every side, are those belonging to Russia. This -great nation, though the last to establish a mission here, has been the -first to choose a fine situation and erect suitable buildings upon it. -The occupants have also the advantage of escaping from the bad smells of -the city. I was the first to offer this site to Cyril, Bishop of -Melitopolis, and head of the Mission, but it was declined. I renewed the -offer to His Excellency M. de Mansouroff, who at first refused it, but -afterwards gave orders that the purchase should be made. - -We will now proceed to a survey of the city itself. The whole _terrain_ -slopes sensibly in an easterly direction; its highest point is at the -north-western angle of the walls; but between this position and the -highest part of Sion to the south the difference of level is not so -great as to forbid us to conjecture that it was originally one hill. The -accumulations of soil have so much altered the surface of the ground -that it is impossible to recognize ancient localities in the modern city -without making excavations: this I have done to an extent that enables -me to speak confidently on the point. Believing that in an undertaking -of this kind it is useless to form an opinion without an accurate -investigation of the soil and a careful study of the subject, I could -not be content to remain merely a few days in the country. - -Modern Jerusalem does not occupy the whole of the space covered by the -ancient city in the days of Herod; the greater part of Mount Sion (to -the south) being excluded, as it has been since the time when Hadrian -rebuilt the city under the name of _Aelia Capitolina_. The agreement -between the descriptions of the town, given by William of Tyre, James of -Vitri, Brocardus and many others in the middle ages, and those of modern -writers, shews that its limits have not since undergone any changes. The -wall, which now surrounds the city, was built from the foundations at -that time, and only restored in some parts by order of Sultan Solyman -the Magnificent, son of Selim I. in 1534, as declared by the -inscriptions over the gates[23]. This wall is not of uniform height, but -varies from thirty-six to forty-two feet. Its thickness also varies in -different parts, from four to five and five and a half feet. The whole -wall is crowned by battlements, and makes a great number of angles; of -these there are more on the south than on the north; while on the east -it forms nearly a straight line, and on the west, two segments, meeting -in a very obtuse angle at the Jaffa gate. Here rise some towers[24], and -the old fortress, called the Castle of David[25]. This constitutes the -feeble nucleus of the fortification of the city, and is of no importance -whatever in the present state of military science. The form of the city -is an irregular trapezium, the longest side of which is the north, the -next the south; the east is shorter than either of the former, the west -the shortest of all. - -The walls contain eleven gateways[26], five of which are closed up. - -1st. On the north, the gate of Damascus, called by the Arabs -_Bab-el-'Amud_, or The Gate of the Column[27]. Through this is the road -to the ancient land of Ephraim, and so to Nablus and Damascus. It is -also the gate of honour by which all the Mohammedan authorities who -arrive as governors or as visitors to the Holy City make their first -entry. This gate is better built than any of the others, and presents a -fine appearance; its Saracenic architecture is magnificent; the few -arabesques and ornaments are of excellent workmanship. Inside, on the -right-hand wall on entering, is a Cufic inscription. - -2nd. Proceeding eastwards, about 780 feet from the gate just described, -is the gate, commonly called that of Herod, which has been walled up for -some few years, to save the expense of a guard. The Arabs call it -_Bab-ez-Zaheri_, which some translate as Gate of Gardens. Close to this -gate is a small reservoir, called the Pilgrim's Pool, in memory of a -maiden who made a vow to walk to Jerusalem barefoot and fasting, and -died of exhaustion on reaching this spot. - -3rd. Continuing along the eastern side and turning to the south, after -passing by a ditch excavated in the rock, we come to a pool and to the -Gate of Saint Mary, _Bab-Sitti-Mariam_ of the Arabs, called by many S. -Stephen's Gate. Over the gateway are four lions in _bas relief_, said -traditionally to have been placed there by the Khalif Omar[28]. The pool -is called _Birket-Hammam-Sitti-Mariam_, or the Pool of the Bath of our -Lady Mary. This gate leads to the valley of Kidron, commonly called the -valley of Jehoshaphat, to Bethany, and to Jericho. - -4th. At a short distance, towards the south, is the Golden Gate[29], -which would open upon the area of the _Haram-es-Sherif_. This is the -most richly ornamented of all, and is remarkable for its architecture, -of which I shall presently speak at greater length. It has long been -closed up, doubtless on account of a legend, to which much importance is -attached by the natives, which states that through this gate a sovereign -from the west will enter, on a Friday, and make himself master of the -city. In consequence, many resort to the gate every Friday to offer -their mid-day prayer and to entreat God to deliver them from foreign -invasions. - -5th. Within a short distance is a very small gate, also built up, which -M. de Saulcy was the first to recognize, (in my opinion wrongly,) as the -gate of Jehoshaphat of the period of the Crusades. - -6th. Passing the south-east corner of the wall, and proceeding westward, -we observe a gate with a pointed arch, also walled up. - -7th. Continuing in the same direction we find a triple gate, also closed -with masonry. - -8th. The southern gate, called by the Mohammedans _Bab-el-Huldah_, Gate -of Huldah[30]. This gate, now disused, is under the Mosque _el-Aksa_. Of -its ornamentation I shall speak more fully in another place. - -9th. Still keeping along the southern wall in a westerly direction we -find the small Dung Gate, called by the Arabs _Bab-el-Mogharibeh_, Gate -of the western Africans. It is not kept open throughout the year; but -when there is a scarcity of water in the city, it is used by the -water-carriers. - -10th. Ascending towards Sion, we reach the Sion Gate, _Bab-Neby-Daud_, -(The Gate of the prophet David,) so called because it leads to the -Sepulchre of David, which is at a short distance. Through it too is the -way to the Christian and Jewish cemeteries. - -11th. Lastly, on the west is the Jaffa Gate[31], or in Arabic, -_Bab-el-Khalil_, (Gate of Hebron,) because through this gate is the best -and shortest road to Hebron. - -The appearance of Jerusalem within the walls is sombre and sad, offering -no attraction to the eye, and filling the mind with deep melancholy. -With the exception of the esplanade of the _Haram-es-Sherif_, the city -presents but a mass of buildings without order or design, very few of -which deserve special attention. The cupolas of the Church of the -Resurrection, that of the new Jewish Synagogue, and some minarets, are -the only edifices which tower above the others, and the forms even of -these are not pleasing. The panorama of Jerusalem, as seen from -Olivet[32], is striking from the feelings it awakens and the -reminiscences it calls up; but it conveys no idea of life. It is in -truth the panorama of a Deicide city. The streets and lanes entangled in -the labyrinth of houses are irregular, narrow, dirty, and ill-paved; -through many of them flow open sewers, receiving the drainage from the -houses, and filth of all kinds abounds. There was a period when it was -even thought desirable to leave the gates of the city open at night, in -order that hyenas and jackals might enter and purify the streets by -devouring the carcases of animals that were lying about. - -The vaulted bazaars, which in many cities of the East are so full of -life and activity, at Jerusalem look rather like caves containing -sepulchral cells, and the visitor must be careful where he stands, lest -some portion of the ruinous wall fall upon him, where he sets his foot, -or against whom he brushes in the street. With few exceptions, the -fronts of the houses present nothing but rows of windows with iron-bars, -or heavy wooden _jalousies_, that give them the appearance of -prisons--weeds and hyssop are growing upon many--others are fast falling -to decay--the whole is a sad picture of neglect and indifference. - -There are three great divisions of the city. A central valley, -commencing at the N.W., outside the Damascus gate, and terminating at -the S.E., below the Pool of Siloam, separates it into two parts, of -which that on the west of the valley may be considered as the first -division, being larger than both the others together. These are -separated one from another by a street, now called (for the greater part -of its length) the Via Dolorosa, which begins at the Gate of Saint Mary, -whence it rises westward until it meets the central valley. The hill to -the north of this street forms the second division, and the platform on -the south, occupied by the _Haram-es-Sherif_ and its precincts, the -third division. - -The first division is traversed from north to south by a street[33] -extending from the Damascus Gate to the Gate of Sion. The part to the -west of this is chiefly inhabited by Christians, and may therefore be -considered as the Christian Quarter; the part to the east, as far as the -central valley, is occupied by people of various creeds. From the Jaffa -Gate as far as the western side of the _Haram_, the city is traversed by -another street, called in the time of the Crusaders the Street of David. -The district, then, east of the street leading to the Gate of Sion, and -S.E. of the Street of David, is the Jewish Quarter; and that north of -the Street of David, together with the western side of the central -valley, the Mohammedan Quarter, although many Christians and Jews also -dwell in it. - -The second division may be considered as partly a Christian and partly a -Mohammedan Quarter, because in the last few years the Christians have -become possessed of much of it, especially along the northern side of -the Via Dolorosa. - -The third division is entirely a Mohammedan Quarter, except that the -Armenian Catholics possess a small plot of ground in the angle formed by -the junction of the Via Dolorosa with the central valley. - -Of all these quarters, the dirtiest, most fetid, and wretched, is that -of the Jews, and this not on account of its topographical position, -which is undoubtedly the best of any, but entirely from the habits of -the people, who pay no attention to cleanliness either in their houses -or dress; they wallow in the mire, so to speak, and carry it on their -persons as though fearing to be robbed of it. They dwell in small -houses, huddled together in great numbers, like moving heaps of filth, -and seem only to use their reason for the purpose of plunging more -deeply into the dirt. I have repeatedly entered their habitations, and -observed that in the courts masses of filth were accumulating year by -year and producing various physical evils, simply because the occupants -would not spend the few _piastres_ necessary for its removal. It is -impossible to persuade them of the unhealthiness of their way of living, -because they would themselves have to pay for any improvements in it; -while, if they fall ill, the hospitals are chargeable with the expense. -Moreover, in two rooms, measuring from twelve to fourteen feet square, -it is by no means rare to find a whole family of six or eight persons. -The mere sight of these things enables one to understand, in some -measure, the statements of Josephus in his "Wars of the Jews," both as -to the number of deaths during the siege by the Romans, and the causes -which produced such mortality. In visiting this quarter, it is -impossible to forget the curse that hangs over the children of Israel, -and the words of Deuteronomy ix. 6: "Understand, therefore, that the -Lord thy God giveth thee not this good land to possess it for thy -righteousness; for thou art a stiffnecked people." Alas! no longer can -any one exclaim at sight of Jerusalem: "Beautiful for situation, the joy -of the whole earth, is mount Sion, on the sides of the north, the city -of the great King[34]." - -The climate of Jerusalem would not be unhealthy, if the streets were -kept cleaner, if the heaps of refuse were deposited further from the -walls, and if the lazy agriculturists would avail themselves of it for -manuring the ground; if the houses were kept in a more cleanly state, -and the drains were better attended to; if the rain-water, by which the -cisterns are fed, passed through filters which were themselves free from -impurity; if the dead, especially among the Mohammedans, were interred -at a greater depth; if all the cemeteries were at a distance from human -habitations, and so situated, that the prevalent winds of the country -would not carry their exhalations over the city; if the carrion and -offal, now often found in the city itself, and always abounding in the -immediate vicinity, were buried; if, in short, there existed a board for -the maintenance of sanitary regulations. His Excellency Surraya Pasha -has made every effort to remedy all these evils, and something has been -done to promote the healthiness of the place since he removed the -slaughter-houses and tannery from the centre of the city. But he has -stood alone in his endeavours. His subordinates, not being animated by -the same spirit, according to their custom, have neglected to see his -commands carried into execution. Hence the result of his measures, -though very perceptible, has not yet been proportionate to just -expectation. - -Although the climate is not subject to the frequent and sudden changes -that occur in western countries, yet it is necessary to guard against -the variation of temperature in the morning and evening, which is very -great, and an ordinary cause of violent attacks of fever, not -unfrequently fatal. Affections of the eyes are common among the lower -classes, who so seldom wash their faces. Those of cleanly habits rarely -suffer. - -From the month of October until the end of March the temperature is much -lowered by the rains. In December and January snow occasionally falls. -From the beginning of April to the month of October there is great heat -during the day and much dew by night. At this season the greatest care -must be taken of the health. - -The ordinary population of Jerusalem comprises about 20,453 souls, but -at the Easter season this number is more or less increased, according to -the concourse of pilgrims, and it is impossible to fix the numbers, even -approximately. In 1856 about 12,800 pilgrims arrived in the Holy City; -in 1859, 7000; and in 1859 not more than 1200. The following are the -religious communities in Jerusalem:-- - -1st. The Jews, whose numbers amount to 7,738: of these, 5,200 are called -_Sephardim_, and derive their origin from the Jews driven out of Spain -A.D. 1497, under the reign of Ferdinand the Catholic and Isabella. Their -Spanish tongue, mixed with many expressions from the Arabic and other -languages, is the sole trace they have preserved of their former -temporary home. The second branch is composed of 2,500 _Ashkenazim_, -from the countries of the north and west of Europe, who have taken up -their abode at Jerusalem: some moved solely by the desire to die in the -land of their patriarchs, others to exercise their industry, the greater -number to profit, with the _Sephardim_, by the abundant alms sent -thither by their co-religionists of Europe, and badly distributed by a -wretched administration. Finally, the _Karaites_,--a sect which sprang -up about the decline of the Jewish kingdom, and admits no human -interpretation of the Old Testament, nor any Rabbinical book--number -about 38, and are superior to all the rest in intelligence, education, -cleanliness, and probity. They belong to the country, though they may -have occasionally abandoned it for a short time during periods of -trouble. - -The head of the whole Jewish community is the Grand Rabbi -(_Khakam-bashi_), to whom all look up, both as the head of their -religion, and as the one to whom the distribution of the alms chiefly -belongs. He it is who gives civil protection to the _Sephardim_ and -_Karaites_, and supports their interests with the local government; -while the _Ashkenazim_ are protected by the Consuls of the different -nations whose subjects they are. Their synagogues are numerous but -unimportant[35]; a hospital, a dispensary, and a house of refuge, -outside the Jaffa gate, are due to the kindness of their co-religionists -in Europe, among the most distinguished of whom are the Messrs. -Rothschild and Sir Moses Montefiore. It is to be hoped that their public -schools for both sexes will for the future be better managed and more -effective than they have hitherto been. - -The Mohammedans number 7,598; thus divided, Arabs 6,854, Turks 680, -Lepers (a separate class) 64. The first are the proprietors of the -country, and govern it with moderation; less, however, from natural -inclination, than from the advantages resulting to themselves from this -course. They are aware that any excesses committed by them at Jerusalem -would not only entail severe punishment, but involve them in the -greatest distress, for but few of them live on their property or by -commerce. Many are employed in public offices or under the civil and -ecclesiastical authorities; others derive the means of subsistence from -the influx of pilgrims and travellers; and the rest subsist upon the -alms distributed by the convents, and in some cases by the Consuls. From -all these sources the Mohammedan prospers in Jerusalem, and consequently -is generally not averse to the Christian. Even at the time of the late -disasters in the Lebanon and the massacres of Damascus, His Excellency -Surraya Pasha by his activity and force of character was able to prevent -any outbreak in Palestine, thus earning the gratitude of every -Christian. - -The Lepers are separated from all, and inhabit a very filthy quarter, -near the gate of Sion. The reader must not believe that they live in -abject misery; they have property of their own and beasts of burden to -fetch and carry their provisions, and each one has his special duty -assigned to him by the head of their community (chosen from among -themselves); either to provide in some way for the common wants, or, in -the case of the most diseased, to solicit alms incessantly, which is -done with so much success that no one of them would submit to be cured, -for fear of losing so profitable a profession. - -The orthodox Greeks are in number about 2,700; they are chiefly subjects -of the Sublime Porte, and acknowledge as their religious head the -Patriarch of Jerusalem, who also, in virtue of his high position, -directs and counsels them in their civil affairs. The great Greek -convent of Saint Constantine at Jerusalem is the light-tower that sheds -its beneficent rays not only over the city but through the whole -country: being very rich, it exercises the greatest influence; modifies -the policy of the government; curbs fanaticism; rouses the idle; finds -work for the poor; acquires very large landed possessions, and -encourages an enlightened system of cultivation; in a word, it greatly -fosters the small amount of prosperity visible in the country. - -The Greek Church has many convents, hospices, seminaries, schools, and a -hospital; but of these, and of those belonging to the other communities, -I will speak in detail in another chapter. - -The number of the Latins or Roman Catholics is about 1,270. Except a few -who are under the protection of the different Consuls, they are all -subject to the Porte, but yield religious submission to a Patriarch, -delegated by the Pope, who resides in Jerusalem. The inability to lavish -money, as the Greek convent does, would limit the influence of the -Patriarch and the Franciscan Fathers of the Holy Land, but that happily -this want is largely compensated by the special protection accorded to -the Holy Places officially by France, and also by other Christian -Powers, which, though not called upon to give protection, yield it from -devotion. Chief among these is Spain, who, both in times past and -present, has liberally aided in supporting the religious communities -that have the care of the Holy Places. Hence it comes that from these -resources, in addition to those supplied by the French Government, the -Propaganda of Rome, Lyons, and other places, both the Patriarch and the -Guardian of the Holy Land are so well able to minister to the wants of -the members of their Church, to assist the sick, to entertain the -pilgrims, and to maintain seminaries and schools for the civil and -religious education of the youth of both sexes. - -The Armenians do not exceed 526 in number, and belong to the Monophysite -sect, declared heretical by the Council of Chalcedon, A.D. 451. They are -subject to the Porte, but yield religious submission to their Patriarch, -who sometimes gives them excellent advice in civil matters. The -Armenians are few and well governed. They are industrious and free from -abject poverty, applying themselves to trade and commerce, and may be -truly said to live by the sweat of their brows. - -Of the Protestants, about 206 belong to the Anglican Church, and 62 to -the Lutheran; total 268. - -The Copts are so few in number, and so entirely engrossed in their -commercial pursuits, that there is nothing whatever to be said about -them; they live a quiet unobtrusive life, and are 130 in all. - -The Abyssinians are so wretchedly poor that they have ceded, or at least -leased out in perpetuity, most of their rights in the Holy Places to the -Armenians, who, in return, furnish them with the means of daily -subsistence. Their number does not exceed 80. - -Notwithstanding the numerous caravans of pilgrims which Russia annually -sent to the Holy Land, that country formerly did not possess a foot of -ground in Jerusalem. But a few years before the last Eastern war, Russia -established in the Holy City an Archimandrite, for whom the Greeks -themselves supplied a fitting residence. The jealousy of the latter, -however, was soon aroused, and they were foolish enough to treat as -dangerous intruders those whom a more prudent course of conduct might -have made valuable allies. The plans of Russia have perhaps changed -since the late war; that which she has been unable to secure at once by -force of arms, she will doubtless acquire more slowly by other means, -which time will bring more fully to light. Meanwhile she is at present -taking the lead in the restoration of the cupola of the Holy Sepulchre. -In February 1858 a Russian Bishop, accompanied by his clergy, took up -his abode in Jerusalem; in October of the same year, the Russian -consulate was established, and a temporary hospice opened pending the -erection of a permanent one. - -The new buildings are nearly finished, but not yet inhabited. The -community numbers 68. - -The Syrians, who possess a convent presided over by a Bishop, are in -number 32. - -The Greek Catholics have a well-built convent. The number of those -permanently established in the city is 24. - -The Armenian Catholics possess an estate, on which they intend to erect -a church, a convent, and a Bishop's house. Their number will then -increase, at present they are but 6. - -The Ammonites are 8 in number, the Disciples 3, and the Sabbatarians 2: -these three sects have arrived during the last few years from America, -but have not made any proselytes. - -From these numbers it results that the whole population, as I have -already stated, amounts to 20,453. - -Compared with the space surrounded by the walls the population is very -small. Without including the large area of the _Haram-es-Sherif_, -Jerusalem could easily contain at least three times as many inhabitants -as it now does. If indeed the houses were built two or three stories -high, if those belonging to the Government and the mosques were -occupied, if those now tottering or in ruins were rebuilt and made -habitable, if the numerous convents of the different religious -communities contained a number of inhabitants in proportion to their -sizes, if also the plots of land now abandoned, covered with rubbish or -occupied by gardens, were partially built over, there would be no lack -of room for a greatly increased population. From this it is evident -that, even if the city did not contain the exaggerated number of more -than a million at the time of the siege by Titus, the amount of its -inhabitants might have been considerable, especially when Ophel and the -southern part of Sion were within the enclosure, thus augmenting the -habitable space by more than a third. - -To complete the description of the present state of Jerusalem, a few -words may be said about the sources of water and the sewers, which at -present so insufficiently supply the wants of the city. First come the -cisterns for rain-water, which are thickly sprinkled over Jerusalem and -its suburbs; one at least being possessed by every landholder and -community. When, during the summer-months, the supply of rain-water -fails, the peasants of the neighbouring villages, especially of Siloam -(where it is drawn from the well of Joab, _Bir-el-Eyub_), drive a -thriving trade as water-carriers. Such is the sad state of a city once -so well supplied with water from the works constructed by its former -kings and the Herods, which are now for the most part in ruins. - -The conduit of Solomon (by many called that of Pilate), which constantly -supplied Jerusalem from the fountains of Etham, still exists, and by it -during the last few years (by direction of Kiamil Pasha and Surraya -Pasha) the water was, under my care, again brought into the city. Owing -to the length of the aqueduct (about three hours' journey) it was -impossible to protect it from the Arabs, whose wanton injuries before -long cut off the supply of water. On the west, the Pool of Mamillah, -though partly filled with earth, catches the rain-water, which is -conveyed from it by a dilapidated conduit into the so-called Pool of -Hezekiah, inside the city. This, during a few months of the year, -supplies a bath. The water, being mixed with dirt and the drainings from -the sepulchres round Mamillah, is not fit to drink. The Pool by St -Mary's Gate, being in bad repair, contains very little water; during -twenty or thirty days in the year it supplies the bath close to the -wall, within the city, called _Hamman-sitti-Mariam_. A similar reason to -that mentioned above renders this water also unfit for drinking. The -Pilgrims' Pool, on the north, close to Herod's Gate, is too small to be -worth further notice. The Pool at the head of the Valley of Kidron, on -the north, is filled with earth and stones. That of _Birket-es-Sultan_ -on the west cannot hold water, as it escapes by the south wall. The -great Pool of Siloam is now filled with earth and converted into a -garden. The Pool of Bethesda, within the walls, is almost choked with -earth and refuse that has been thrown into it; by this time it would -have been quite filled up, had not Kiamil Pasha, at my earnest request, -put a stop to the practice in 1856. Within the _Haram-es-Sherif_ the -great cistern at the south-east corner is not only in ruins but so -filled with rubbish as to be useless. This is the effect not so much of -time as of Vandalism and of the carelessness of Mohammedans about -keeping up ancient monuments; when they are gone they regret their loss, -but take no pains whatever to preserve them. - -The waters naturally unfit for drinking are, inside the city, the -springs of the _Hammam-es-shefa_ (Bath of Shefa), situated near the -western side of the _Haram-es-Sherif_. The water supplies the -neighbouring bath, but has a disagreeable taste. Outside the city is the -spring called the Fountain of the Virgin, that runs into the Pool of -Siloam. It is used for irrigating the gardens of Siloam and for domestic -purposes. Neither of these springs gives a copious supply of water. - -The city is full of sewers, the principal being that which, beginning -from the Damascus Gate and following the line of the central valley, -goes out under the south wall at the Dung Gate, and continues along the -western side of the same valley till it comes to the great Pool of -Siloam. Another goes along the Street of David, joining the former on -the east. All are in the worst possible condition, and annually stand in -need of repair, as they frequently become choked up by the accumulated -filth. - -The above brief sketch may suffice for the present; the subject will be -treated in detail, and further information given in a future chapter. - - -FOOTNOTES: - -[2] Gen. xiv. 18. - -[3] Ep. ad Evang. Presb. Sec. 7. - -[4] S. John iii. 23. - -[5] Gen. xiv. 17. - -[6] Advocates of the other opinion rely on 2 Sam. xviii. 18, but in this -passage _the king's dale_ only is mentioned, without the specification -of _the valley of the plain_. These last words could not be used of a -place overhung by the steep slopes of Mount Moriah and Mount Olivet. - -[7] Herod, II. 159; III. 5. - -[8] Josephus, c. Ap. I. 34. - -[9] Josh. x. 1-27. - -[10] Judg. i. 21; Josephus, Ant. V. 2, Secs. 2, 3. - -[11] 2 Sam. v. 6-9. - -[12] 1 Kings xiv. 25, 26. - -[13] 2 Chron. xxi. 16, 17. - -[14] 2 Chron. xxv. 23, 24. - -[15] 2 Kings xix. 35. - -[16] 2 Chron. xxxiii. 14. - -[17] 2 Kings xxv. 9, 10. - -[18] Note I. - -[19] See the Chronology in Appendix. - -[20] Plates II., IV. - -[21] Note II. - -[22] Note III. - -[23] Note IV. - -[24] Plate V. - -[25] Plate VI. - -[26] Note V. - -[27] Plate VII. - -[28] Images of animals are not forbidden to Mohammedans; see for example -the Court of Lions in the Alhambra. - -[29] Plate XVIII. - -[30] Plate XX. - -[31] Plate V. - -[32] Plate I. - -[33] Note VI. - -[34] Psalm xlviii. 2. - -[35] The Great Synagogue and the Polish are the only two worth mention. - - - - -CHAPTER II. - - ANCIENT TOPOGRAPHY OF JERUSALEM--IDENTIFICATION OF THE MOUNTAINS, - HILLS AND VALLEYS--JERUSALEM IN THE TIME OF THE JEBUSITES, DAVID, - SOLOMON, JOTHAM, HEZEKIAH, MANASSEH, NEHEMIAH, HEROD--THE TESTIMONY - OF JOSEPHUS EXAMINED--THE SIEGE BY TITUS--FORMER EXTENT OF THE - CITY--JERUSALEM IN THE TIME OF HADRIAN, THE CRUSADERS AND SOLYMAN. - - -Having thus described the existing city, let us pass on to consider the -ancient, and endeavour to recognise in its mountains and hills, its -valleys and other landmarks, points corresponding to the allusions of -the Bible and the writings of Josephus. We will suppose the reader to be -standing with us on the summit of the Mount of Olives, and will point -out the chief features of the view before him[36]. At the first glance -we see that the city is built upon two nearly parallel ranges of hills, -separated by a central valley. These we proceed to examine in detail. -The summit of the western part forms a kind of plateau, extending from -the north-west to the south, whose highest points are at the southern -extremity, at the Armenian convent, at the castle of David, and at the -north-west corner; but on closer examination we see that the plateau, -which commences at the castle and terminates at the south, forms a hill -sloping sensibly on the west, east, south, and slightly on the north as -far as the street of David, where there is nothing to be seen which -would induce us to suppose that a valley had once existed there. I -believe that the fortress of the Jebusites, and afterwards that of Sion, -used to stand on the upper part of this hill, and that the city of -David[37] extended over the whole of its irregular quadrilateral area. -This opinion is confirmed by Josephus, who says[38] it was defended by -precipices on every side, except the north, which, being the weakest, -was guarded by a triple wall. This hill then has on the west the valley -of Gihon[39], on the south the valley of Hinnom[40], on the east the -continuation of the central valley, while on the north it is open to -attack, and consequently in former time was fortified there more -strongly than on the other sides, which were inaccessible. Sion is then -the spot on which the _upper city_ of Josephus was situated. - -A street, rising from the Gate of S. Mary and running in a westerly -direction to meet the central valley, distinctly divides the eastern -range. North of this division is the highest ground; on the south there -is the great plateau of the _Haram-es-Sherif_. Outside the west wall of -the _Haram_ a gentle slope leads towards the central valley, which is -covered by houses. The testimony of Josephus[41] is consequently -verified, that "the city was built on two hills, which are opposite one -to another, and have a valley to divide them asunder; at which valley -the corresponding rows of houses on both hills end." - -Having thus pointed out the western hill, Sion, and the valley indicated -by Josephus, which we call the central valley, let us examine that part -of the eastern range, which is to the south of the dividing street, in -order to identify Moriah and Acra. Josephus[42] states that "the other -hill which was called Acra, and sustains the lower city, slopes[43] on -all sides; over against this there was a third hill, but naturally lower -than Acra, and parted formerly from the other by a broad valley. -However, in those times when the Asamoneans reigned, they filled up that -valley with earth, and had a mind to join the city to the Temple. They -then took off part of the height of Acra, and reduced it to be of less -elevation than it was before, that the Temple might be superior to it." -Hence it appears why we no longer see the broad valley and the two -separate hills, but an area in which the site of the ancient Temple -overtops the rest. We consider Moriah to be the third hill, and Acra the -part lying between the west side of Moriah and the central valley. - -The identification of Moriah does not admit of any doubt. The name and -its probable equivalent Jehovah-jireh, are found in the story of -Abraham's sacrifice[44]; there Solomon[45] built the Temple, whose -precious remains still indicate its position: of these we will speak at -length in a future chapter. The name Moriah is not used by Josephus, but -the place can be identified with certainty from his description. We are -told by him[46] that the platform of the temple was defended on the -north-west by the tower Antonia, which was itself protected by a ditch. -An examination of the Pool of Bethesda and the excavations, which I -made by the foundations of the barracks of the _Haram_, have convinced -me of the historian's accuracy. In his description of the Temple[47] it -is stated that the hill-side to the east of it was precipitous, and that -Solomon was obliged to build a wall to support the made ground. The -ancient wall and the valley of Kidron still exist, in confirmation of -this statement. It is also implied that the south side was precipitous, -which is proved by the remains of buildings still to be seen and the -actual declivity of Ophel. That there was once a large valley on the -west side, is proved by the following fact: on the west of the area of -the _Haram-es-Sherif_ the rock runs up to the inside of the boundary -wall, but on the outside it disappears, and is replaced by made ground -of very great depth. I have inspected several excavations in the -neighbourhood, and examined the tanks which are just outside the -_Haram_, usually not less than 50 or 56 feet deep, the shaft (passing -through the earth) being generally from 30 to 36 feet, and built with -masonry. Hence I infer that a valley once existed on this spot, and that -the made ground was obtained by the demolition of Acra; by this means -Moriah was thrown open to every part of the city, which surrounded it -like a theatre[48], and so was made 'superior to Acra.' But on examining -the tanks nearer to the Tyropoeon valley, I found the shafts not more -than 12 feet deep: here then was Acra in former times. These few feet of -made ground were probably formed by the destruction of the city by -Titus. Acra was said to 'slope on all sides,' because it had on the east -the 'broad valley,' on the south the descent to the central valley, on -the west the central valley itself, and on the north the valley, which, -starting from the central valley, went in an easterly direction to that -of Kidron. How this last has been filled up I will presently explain. In -the time of Josephus these hills were already united, and so, speaking -generally, the city appeared to be 'built on two hills opposite to one -another.' - -In the northern part of the eastern range we find _Bezetha_, or the 'New -city' of Josephus, which was entirely surrounded by valleys or -ditches[49] artificially made. This position is elevated and opposite to -the north[50] side of the _Haram_, and must therefore be identical with -_Bezetha_, which had the central valley on the west, ditches on the -north and east, and on the south the valley dividing it from the Tower -of Antonia: all which characteristics may still be recognised on the -spot. - -There is yet another hill in Jerusalem, called _Gareb_. The only -instance we have of the use of the name in former times is in Jer. xxxi. -39. Josephus does not mention it, either considering it as part of Mount -Sion, with which it was continuous, or, more probably, comprehending it -in the 'New city.' It bears the name _Gareb_ among the Arabs at the -present day. When I speak of the walls of the city, the Temple, and the -tower Antonia, I will bring forward other arguments to confirm my -assertions about the hills; for the present I reserve them, and pass on -to the valleys. - -The central valley has already been mentioned several times. It agrees -in every respect with the Tyropoeon of Josephus[51], which -"distinguished the hill of the upper city from that of the lower, (and) -extended as far as Siloam." Many who have written on the topography of -ancient Jerusalem, especially Dr Robinson, assert that the Tyropoeon -valley ran eastwards from the Jaffa Gate till it joined the central -valley, at the point where the latter bends to the south-east, in its -course to the Pool of Siloam. In opposition to this opinion, and in -confirmation of my own, I have certain facts to bring forward. The -valley which I consider the Tyropoeon still drains the whole city; all -along it runs a sewer receiving those from the eastern and western -divisions. I have had frequent opportunities of ascertaining this, while -repairs were being carried on[52]. I found that the central sewer, -although 12, 16, and sometimes even 18 feet below the surface, was not -based upon rock, but upon made ground. During the repairs I searched for -the rock in the upper part of the valley, and found it at a depth of 18 -feet, near the Damascus Gate, of 26 feet near the Temple Bazaar, of 22 -feet at a few paces to the north of the Dung Gate. These facts shew that -there was formerly a valley in this part of Jerusalem. Now we cannot -adopt the position assigned to the Tyropoeon by Dr Robinson, for the -following reasons: (1) In the north ditch of the Castle of David we find -the rock, which extends thence in a north-west direction. I came upon it -in 1860, when a building (now used as a custom-house) was erected by the -Greek convent outside the wall adjoining the Jaffa Gate. (2) The rock, -found under the new buildings belonging to the Latin Patriarch a little -to the north of the castle, under the English church and under a new -building to the north of it, plainly shews that the head of the valley -could not be at this spot. On the south side of the Christian Bazaar is -the Greek Convent of S. John, and a few paces to the south of this the -Prussian hospital. While this was being built in 1858, I examined its -foundations, and ascertained the shelving stratum on which they rest to -be a continuation of the rock beneath the convent. Where then could the -valley be? (3) A similar state of things is found on descending about -350 feet to the east. (4) From west to east along the course of the -supposed valley runs a sewer, 6 feet below the ground, cut in some parts -in the rock. This I helped to repair at several points in 1856, and was -able to ascertain that there was but very little made ground anywhere -near it; I cannot therefore allow that there ever was a valley at this -place. Brocardus about A.D. 1283, Adrichomius and Villalpandus near the -close of the sixteenth century, assert that this valley existed, but to -prove their statement they ought to have made excavations. They must -have seen Jerusalem in a condition very like its present, especially as -regards its valleys, which must have been already filled up, either at -the time of the destruction by Titus or of the rebuilding by Hadrian; -for since these periods the city cannot have undergone any material -change. The above authors inferred the existence of a valley from seeing -that the south side of the street of David was considerably upraised, -while the north was nearly level. Had they searched for the rock, they -would have found the higher ground to the south to be nothing but a mass -of rubbish, while the south front of the Convent of S. John, and the -rest of the buildings on the same side, rest upon rock a few feet below -the surface. - -The supposed existence of this valley has led some to think that the -ground, now occupied by the Church of the Resurrection, was the hill -Acra; but this locality does not correspond with any of the -topographical _data_ of Josephus. How could the citadel[53] of Antiochus -Epiphanes be built in this position to command the Temple? How could the -Macedonian garrison from this place harass and even kill the Jews who -were going to the Temple? Could this be Acra 'sloping on all sides' -which was 'levelled that the temple might be higher than it[54]'? None -of these conditions are satisfied, therefore this theory must be -rejected. In the Tyropoeon of Dr Robinson I place the Quarter of -_Millo_: my reasons for doing so I will give at the proper place. - -A valley has already been mentioned as dividing Moriah from Bezetha; -only the eastern extremity of this is now visible, at the Pool of -Bethesda, at which place we will examine it. The north and south side -walls of the pool are founded upon and rest against the rock, while on -the east, as the valley once extended down to Kidron, a solid sloping -wall has been built solely to confine the water. There is also a wall on -the west, and all the observations that I have made in this direction, -as far as the Tyropoeon, have convinced me of the existence of a -valley; and on questioning the old masons who in the time of Ibrahim -Pasha, A.D. 1836, laid the foundations of the Barrack of the -_Haram-es-Sherif_, I was assured that on the north side they had gone -down not less than 26 or 30 feet before they came to the rock. On the -south side of the Latin Chapel of the Flagellation, which lies directly -north of the Barrack, the Franciscans had to dig 16 or 18 feet for the -same purpose. In laying the foundations of the Austrian Hospice above -the eastern verge of the Tyropoeon, A.D. 1856, I clearly ascertained -the existence of the valley on the south side, and have done the same on -the property of the Armenian Catholics, called 'the first fall of -Christ.' Hence I conclude that there was a valley in this part of the -city, which divided Bezetha from Moriah and the north-west corner of -Acra. - -A small valley, commencing on the north near Herod's Gate, runs into the -city, and terminates at the Pool of Bethesda, thus dividing Bezetha into -two parts. Inside the city it can hardly be distinguished, owing to the -quantity of rubbish by which it has been filled up. Its existence -however is proved by the water-courses that descend from the east slope -of the western part of Bezetha. - -Let us now proceed to examine the exterior of the city. Ophel or Ophlas -is to the south of the _Haram-es-Sherif_. Its position corresponds -exactly with the statement of Josephus[55], that it adjoins the Temple -on the south. Its form is that of a triangle with the base resting -against the south side of the _Haram_ and the vertex directed towards -the Pool of Siloam. It is bounded on the east by the sloping sides of -the valley of Kidron, on the west by those of the Tyropoeon valley. -Its defences were carefully attended to by different kings of Judah, -because its fortifications greatly increased the strength of the Temple, -which otherwise would have been exposed to an attack from the south. The -position is a sufficient argument for its identity. - -The positions of Mount Olivet and the Mount of Offence are indisputable. -David[56] went up Mount Olivet, weeping, after crossing the torrent -Kidron, and the Mount of Offence[57] is 'before Jerusalem.' Olivet is -frequently mentioned in the New Testament, especially in the Acts of the -Apostles, where its distance from the city is fixed by the words -"Olivet, which is from Jerusalem a sabbath-day's journey[58]," that is, -a little more than 2000 cubits, according to the rabbinical writers; and -so we find it to be. We may also cite in confirmation the testimony of -Josephus, who says that it "lies over against the city on the east side, -and is parted from it by a deep valley interposed between them, which is -named Kidron[59]." - -Authors differ about the site of Mount Gihon[60], or Guihon, but I place -it on the west, because we find that Hezekiah "stopped the upper -water-course of Gihon, and brought it straight down to the west side of -the city of David[61]," and Manasseh "built a wall without the city of -David on the west side of Gihon, in the valley, even to the entering in -at the Fish-gate[62]." This gate was probably the same as that of Jaffa, -which might very likely bear this name, because through it the produce -of the sea would be brought into Jerusalem. If Gihon does not correspond -with the hill on the west, outside the city, I cannot understand the two -verses cited above; especially since Hezekiah could not have brought -water into the city from any other point, without either cutting through -the hills with great trouble and expense, or making an aqueduct over a -valley. - -The Hill of Evil Counsel is probably the same as Tophet[63]. We find -from the prophet Jeremiah that it was a place of sepulture, and indeed -it was only there that room could be found for the purpose. Even now -the Arabs call it the _Mount of the Sepulchres_, from the number of -graves there. They call Hinnom the _Valley of the Fire_; in Syriac it is -_Gehenna_ (Hell). This nearly corresponds with the _Valley of -Slaughter_, as it is called by Jeremiah[64]. It is not impossible that -the fortress of Bethsura[65] stood on this mount, which was distant from -the city about five[66] stadia, towards the south. Mount Shafat, or -Scopus, is the northern part of the range of Olivet, which runs in a -north-west direction; the account of it given by Josephus, the distance -from the city of seven stadia, the use made of it in the strategic -operations of Titus[67], all correspond exactly with this position. - -Having thus gone through the chief points of topographic interest, let -us glance at the condition of the city during the different epochs of -its existence. First, then, in the time of the Jebusites. On this -subject the Bible only tells us, that it was defended on the south by -the valley of Hinnom[68], that it was on high ground, and, in the then -state of the art of war, nearly impregnable, so that its inhabitants -thought it could be defended against the army of David by the blind and -the lame[69]. Jerusalem was then divided into two parts, the Fortress -and the Lower City[70]. Hence we can understand how it was that the -descendants of Benjamin[71] dwelt at Jerusalem with the Jebusites; the -former dwelling in the Lower City, the latter in the Fortress. This we -find confirmed by the statement of Josephus[72]. It is very probable -that the fortress of the Jebusites covered the platform of Sion, which -reaches from its southern extremity to the castle still existing on the -north, and is bounded on the east by the Tomb of David, the Armenian -convent[73], and the English church. This opinion is confirmed by the -remains of an old wall, which the Armenians found on building a seminary -and rooms for pilgrims, and by the discovery of an ancient pool. Both -these appear to be the work of a very early age, and anterior to the -introduction of Phoenician art into Jerusalem. The lower city must -have occupied the eastern slope of Sion near the western side of the -Tyropoeon. Owing to the scanty materials that have come down to us, we -cannot add anything more about the city of the Jebusites. - -The form and size of the City of David have already been mentioned in -the account of Mount Sion. It is stated in the Bible, that David, -directly after his conquest, began to strengthen not only the fortress -but the whole city, that he dwelt in the fortress[74], that the King of -Tyre sent labourers to build his house[75], which was certainly the -whole fortress, that "David built round about from Millo and -inward[76]," and that "Joab repaired the rest of the city[77]." We are -not told that David enlarged the city, but unquestionably he fortified -it; possibly however he may have made its form more regular by bringing -the houses up to the edge of the declivities of the valleys on the west, -south, and east. To test this opinion I examined the part of Mount Sion -which is outside the present wall, and found in the Protestant cemetery -the vertical hewn rock, and a flight of steps close by cut out of it, -which were discovered by the workmen employed by the Mission; at the -same time large stones were also dug up in the ground, such as are -frequently thrown out by the spades of the husbandmen. On questioning -some of them, more particularly the older men, I heard that, for a long -time past, large stones had been found in considerable quantities, and -sold by the landowners to the builders in the city, who, in order to -remove them more easily, broke them up on the spot. I was able to -satisfy myself of the truth of this statement at the place itself[78]. I -then asked them about the shape of the stones, and inquired whether -those found near the surface corresponded with those found at a greater -depth, and was told that the former were usually rusticated, and also -almost calcined, while the latter were large irregular blocks in -excellent preservation. I satisfied myself of the truth of this by -examining the two kinds of stone. I then inquired about the direction in -which the greatest number of stones were discovered, but their answers -on this point were so vague, that I determined to make some excavations -on my own account. With some difficulty permission was obtained from the -owners of the land, under the condition that I should use their workmen, -give them all that might be found, and make them a present in addition. -As I was only anxious to obtain proof of the position of the wall of -David, I willingly agreed to this. The attempt was successful; at -certain points on the south and east[79] I found the rock hewn vertical -or cut into steps, or else steep and broken; on it fragments of ancient -masonry still remained, built of large irregular blocks, fitted together -without mortar: in some places other rows of stones, joined with greater -skill, were laid upon these, which in turn supported others rudely -rusticated in high relief, with the surface rough. I am inclined to -think that the lower rows belong to the period of the Jebusites, the -next to that of David[80], and the upper to a later date. Near the Pool -of Siloam the vertical hewn rock is again plainly seen, and also inside -the city, on the west side of the Tyropoeon Valley, and in front of -the Mosque _el-Aksa_. I believe therefore that the Wall of David can be -traced on the south and east. A careful examination of the western brow -of Sion and the configuration of the ground shew that this wall must -have followed its present course, and have continued in the same -direction as far as the south-west angle. All that I have been able to -find at the castle belongs to a much later period, as we shall presently -see. North of Sion, on the south side of the Street of David, the ground -is covered by houses. I have therefore been unable to examine it, and -can only draw inferences; but I am led to think that Millo was on that -side for the following reasons.--We have seen that David "built round -about from Millo and inward[81];" which must mean that _he began to -build from the position of Millo inwards_, i.e. to the south, or round -about the city. Now I believe that the quarter of Millo derived its name -from the great pool in the neighbourhood, commonly called the Pool of -Hezekiah[82]--the original _Millo_ of David. A learned Russian ex-rabbi -explained to me that the word _Millo_ generally meant 'made ground,' but -that a large reservoir, which receives water from another, is commonly -called _Millo_, while this other is called _Mamillah_, and -water-carriers, _Malleah_. We can therefore understand that David began -to build from Millo, because, as there is not a valley on that side, it -was the weakest part of the city. This explanation, as we shall see, -suits all the other passages in the Bible in which Millo is mentioned; -but it cannot be a place of 'made ground,' because there is none here. -This is all that is known about the City of David. - -The city was undoubtedly enlarged in the reign of Solomon, by the -addition of Mount Moriah, on which the Temple was built[83]. David -bought the threshingfloor (its site) from Araunah[84], a rich Jebusite, -at which time it evidently was outside Jerusalem: but when Solomon built -upon it, he joined it to the City of David[85]. Josephus also tells us -that Solomon enlarged the city, and built new walls and fortified it -with towers[86]. My opinion is that Solomon's wall began on the north -side of David's, to the east of the Castle, and ran in a northerly -direction, till it bent round to the east, so as to include Mount -Moriah, which it encompassed on the east, south, and for a short -distance on the west, till it again joined the wall of the City of -David, after crossing the Tyropoeon Valley. Thus the fortifications of -the Old city were strengthened on the north, while the New was liable to -be taken from the north-west and a small part of the north side; but the -rest of this, and the other sides, were strongly defended by art or the -natural difficulties of the position. In this new part of the city I -have found fragments of the age of Solomon in the foundations of houses, -in the walls of the Pool of Bethesda, and in the eastern and southern -boundary wall of the _Haram_; but will speak of these more particularly -in the chapter on the Temple. The remains that I have seen or found -inside the city are of the greatest interest, but all belong to a much -later period. In the passages of the Bible that speak of Solomon, we -find frequent mention of _Millo_; for example, "This is the reason of -the levy which King Solomon raised, for to build the house of the Lord, -and his own house, and Millo, and the wall of Jerusalem.... Pharaoh's -daughter came up out of the city of David unto her house which Solomon -had built for her: then did he build Millo[87]." And "Solomon built -Millo, and repaired the breaches of the city of David his father[88]." -This Millo is not the same as the Millo of David; for I hold with the -rabbinical tradition, that Solomon's house was near the south side of -the Temple, to which place he brought Pharaoh's daughter from the City -of David; that this Millo is the immense reservoir still to be seen at -the south-east corner of the _Haram-es-Sherif_, and that the materials -derived from it were used to fill up the depths of the Tyropoeon -Valley, between the New and the Old City. The "House of Millo, which -goeth down to Silla[89]," where Joash was murdered, I take to be near -the Millo of David, because the _going down to Silla_ must have been a -street leading down to Siloam, and therefore corresponding with the -street of David. We may observe that this part added to the city is -specified at an early period[90]. - -Some works of defence appear to have been constructed on Ophel, before -the reign of Jotham, for it is said that "Jotham built much on the wall -of Ophel[91]," which seems to mean that he found the wall already in -existence. What he did build there we have now no means of ascertaining. -Of Hezekiah we learn that he "built up all the wall that was broken, and -raised it up to the towers, and another wall without, and repaired -Millo, _in the City of David_[92]." This place I have already identified -with the Pool[93] bearing Hezekiah's name, which before his time was -outside the city, and was by him enclosed within the defences so as to -deprive the Assyrians of water. In confirmation of this view I may -mention that when the fathers of the Holy Land were laying the -foundation of the house now occupied by the Latin Patriarch, they came -upon remains of the solid masonry of the old wall. The same thing -occurred to the Copts on the north side of the foundations of their -Hospice. I do not speak of this from personal knowledge, as I was not -living in Jerusalem at the time, but I have no doubt of the truth of the -statement. I myself found a fragment of the massive ancient wall, when -superintending the laying of the foundations of the little mosque, -dedicated to Omar[94], which is opposite to the Church of the -Resurrection on the south: the masonry was composed of large blocks of -stone, of a tolerably regular form, which were fastened together by iron -clamps: and the thickness of the wall was about seven feet and a half. I -have therefore traced and attributed to Hezekiah the wall, which -starting on the north of the Castle of David, passes on the north of -the Copts' Hospice, and finally joins the line of that which I have -attributed to Solomon, after running parallel to the street of the -Sepulchre. - -A strong line of fortifications was built round Ophel by Manasseh[95]. -Directed by the hints given in the Bible, I examined it as I had Sion. -The answers given to me by the _fellahin_, the evidence on the spot, and -my excavations, brought to light some traces of a wall of -circumvallation on the east side of the Tyropoeon, and at the south -end of Ophel. The great accumulation of earth on the Kidron side would -have made any investigations very costly, and I was convinced of the -direction of the walls in this part by the account of Josephus[96]; -accordingly I did not make any excavations here. - -Before describing Jerusalem at the time of Nehemiah, it will be well to -enumerate the gates of the city before the Captivity, and to fix, as far -as possible, their positions. We are told that Jehoash king of Israel -"brake down the walls of Jerusalem from the gate of Ephraim to the -corner gate, four hundred cubits[97]." I place the _gate of Ephraim_ at -the N.W. angle of Solomon's wall because it led to the land of Ephraim. -The _Corner gate_ was, I think, at the north-east angle of the platform -of the Temple. We find in Jeremiah "The city shall be built from the -tower of Hananeel unto the gate of the corner[98]," which may be very -well understood to mean "from one extremity of the city to the other." I -believe that the tower of Hananeel was in the present castle. King -"Uzziah built towers in Jerusalem at the corner gate and at the _valley -gate_, and fortified them[99]." The latter might have been in the south -side of the wall of Sion. The _horse gate_[100] is also mentioned, but -this was probably in the wall of the Temple, not of the city. I identify -the _fish gate_[101] with the present Jaffa gate. The situation of "the -_high gate of Benjamin_, which was by the house of the Lord[102]," is -uncertain: I think it to have been either a gate of the Temple, or one -through which a road to the Temple passed. Perhaps it may be found in -the second line of wall on the north, but this is very doubtful. Lastly, -it is said that when the Chaldeans entered Jerusalem, "all the men of -war fled by night, by the way of the _gate between two walls_, which is -by the king's garden[103]." These are the walls of David and Manasseh on -the two sides of the Tyropoeon, so the gate was probably in the middle -of the valley, looking southwards towards the King's garden, now tilled -by the peasants of Siloam. I do not expect that the above remarks will -convince all, but trust that they may at least suggest subjects for -thought and study. - -The city, thus built at different periods, was burnt and destroyed by -Nebuchadnezzar; but let us pass over the sad years of captivity, till -we come to the time when, by the energy and zeal of Nehemiah, it rose -again from its ruins. Something must be said of its aspect at that time, -and especially of its gates; but I must warn the reader that, after all -my labours, I have not been able thoroughly to satisfy myself about -their situation, because of the difficulty of reconciling the third and -twelfth with the second chapter of Nehemiah. Still, without desiring to -push my opinions presumptuously forward, I offer them in hopes that they -may be fortunate enough to attract the attention of competent students -to this interesting point of Biblical Archaeology. I know that many have -already attempted to fix the position of these gates, but I am also -aware that their theories are contradictory, and often rest upon -hypotheses which are open to attack. The illustrious Reland has not -chosen to make any positive assertions on these points, and has -contented himself with a simple list of names; I will therefore follow -his example[104]. - -The _sheep gate_[105] must have been in the west wall, that runs -southwards from the castle, in which were the towers of Meah and -Hananeel: the _fish gate_, nearly on the site of the present Jaffa gate: -the _old gate_, in the north part of David's wall, near its junction -with Solomon's: the _broad wall_, that portion of the second enclosure, -which protected the west and north as far as the north-west corner of -the temple area, and the _tower of the furnaces_, outside it: the -_valley gate_, at the extreme south-west corner of Sion: the _dung -gate_, on the south side of Sion, a thousand cubits to the east of the -valley gate: the _fountain gate_, at the east extremity of the north -wall of David's enclosure, and, consequently, at the middle of the -Tyropoeon valley. I identify the _pool of Siloah_ with that, now -filled with earth, below the fountain of Siloam, and the _king's garden_ -with those still existing there. The _stairs that go down from the city -of David_ begin at the south-east angle of that king's wall and extend -eastwards down the slopes of Sion. The _sepulchres of David_ are upon -Sion, a little to the west of that now shewn under that name. The _pool -that was made_ is _Birket-es-Sultan_, outside the walls on the west. The -_water gate_ is in the Tyropoeon valley, to the south of the fountain -gate; the _east gate_, on the site of the present golden gate. Let the -reader now examine the account[106] of the two companies which went, in -opposite directions, to dedicate the new wall to the Lord. - -The _dragon well_[107] may have been near the south end of the pool -_Birket-es-Sultan_; indeed there is a tradition among the Arabs, that a -spring once existed on this spot, but I do not know whether it is of any -value. No remains of the age of Nehemiah are to be found either outside -the present city or in its walls, except in the east wall of the -_Haram-es-Sherif_: I will explain my reasons for referring these to this -epoch in the chapter on the Temple. - -No one besides Josephus has handed down to us a detailed account of the -topography of Jerusalem in the time of the Herods and Titus: since then -he lived in this period and is our sole authority, I follow his account -entirely. In endeavouring to identify the spots mentioned by him, in a -place that has undergone such frequent alterations, I have not imitated -the example of most writers, in ancient and modern times, who have -copied one from another, and based their arguments on mere hypotheses; -but, during a period of eight years, have devoted myself to a thorough -examination of every part of Jerusalem; have carefully studied the -_terrain_, the rocks, the stones, which I have sought under the -accumulated ruins of centuries; have made deep excavations to trace the -course of the ancient walls, underground passages and conduits; have -watched the digging of numbers of foundations, from day to day, within -and without the city; have collected information from persons worthy of -credit and experienced in building, about the most important works that -had been carried out before my arrival; have descended into and examined -cisterns, clean and dirty; and after working like a labourer during the -day, have read Josephus instead of going to sleep, and tested his -statements for myself. I did not use any other authors except Livy and -Caesar, whose writings I studied in order to understand thoroughly the -Roman art of war and the siege operations of Titus against the city; and -after I had done all this, I made plans and sections upon the spot. This -being well known to all the inhabitants of Jerusalem, I fearlessly -present the results of my labours to all who take an interest in the -reconstruction of the city of the Herods. I may indeed sometimes be -mistaken in my arguments, or wrong in my conclusions; if so, I shall be -glad to be corrected; thankful if even by this means I have created an -interest in the subject, and given rise to new ideas and a better -knowledge of the archaeology of Jerusalem. - -Having now considered the general features of the city, its hills and -its valleys, and seen that it was guarded by a triple wall on the -exposed side and a single wall on those which overhung the valleys[108], -we will proceed to examine this triple line of defence. - -The first wall began on the north at the _Tower Hippicus_, and passing -by the _Xystus_ joined on to the _Palace of the Council_, and ended at -the west gate of the Temple. It was strengthened with much care and -expense by David, Solomon, and their successors. In examining its course -on the present ground, I started from the castle of David, going -eastward in a line parallel to 'David's street' as far as the _Mekhemeh_ -(the Turkish law courts), and thence to the west wall of the -_Haram-es-Sherif_. - -In order to identify the towers of Hippicus, Phasaelus, and Mariamne, I -frequently and carefully examined the fortress[109]. In it there are -still three towers, one on the west, just south of the Jaffa gate, -whose architecture, as far as it is visible, appears mediaeval; another -to the east of this, built of stones with large rustic work of the -Herodian pattern; and a third to the south of these two, resembling the -first. In all three I ascertained that the Jewish masonry is founded on -the rock, and that, for a height of five feet above the ground, they are -cased with large stones, roughly rusticated; but in the middle tower the -Jewish masonry continues about 39 feet from the bottom of the -ditch--only the _stones_, however, are of the Herodian period, the -architecture is of a later date, belonging to the time when art was -declining in the country[110]; for we see that these interesting remains -are used without the slightest care; being arranged without any regard -to their size, and most of them shewing the marks of the clamps, by -which they were formerly bolted together inside the wall; so that they -have evidently been placed in reverse order[111]. The three towers are -solid inside to a height of 11 feet, and the lower part of the ditch (14 -feet deep) that surrounds them on the north, east, and south, is cut in -the rock; the west tower is nearly 25 cubits square, the centre 40, the -south 20. I adopt, then, Williams' opinion, that the tower Hippicus -stood on the foundation of the first, Phasaelus on the second, and -Mariamne on the third. This identification seems to agree with Josephus' -description[112]; so that these are the positions of the three ancient -towers, which Titus ordered to be spared, "in order to demonstrate to -posterity what kind of a city it was, and how well fortified, which the -Roman valour had subdued[113]." - -It may be urged, as an objection to this, that the cisterns, mentioned -by the historian, are not to be found in these towers; but it is surely -very unlikely that these would come down to us through so many changes. -One tower has been enlarged to accommodate a greater number of troops, -and nothing is more probable than that the cisterns would be destroyed -in some of the extensive alterations which the buildings have undergone; -for example, in making the story 20 cubits high, which now exists in it; -besides, the cisterns, which are in other parts of the fortress, seem to -shew that those within the towers have been removed. We shall presently -see that the position assigned to Hippicus agrees very well with the -historian's statements on other points, especially on the second -position, occupied by Titus during the siege[114]. - -The number of houses and the character of their several owners make it -impossible to excavate along the street of David, from the tower -Hippicus to the west wall of the Temple; so that I was obliged to be -contented with what I could find above ground. In many places I noticed -large stones, generally rusticated, built into the lower parts of the -present houses; for example, in the Greek convent of S. John, in the -south-east corner of the Pool of Hezekiah, and in many houses on the -south of the above-named street. These stones I suppose to be remains of -the old wall, because I cannot think that any one would have taken the -trouble to bring them from a distance. The most remarkable thing is a -semicircular Jewish arch, forming part of an ancient gateway, now almost -entirely buried. This I will describe when I come to the second wall. - -The Xystus, as appears from several passages in Josephus, was a public -place surrounded by buildings, on the lower slopes of Sion, opposite the -west wall of the Temple. We are told that the priests built a wall on -the west of the Temple, to prevent king Agrippa II. from watching the -sacred rites from the top of his palace[115] near the Xystus; also that, -after the capture of the lower city and the Temple, the Jews, entrenched -on Sion, asked to speak with Titus, and that he placed himself on the -west side of the Temple, for "there were gates on that side above the -Xystus, and a bridge that connected the upper city with the -Temple[116]." The Xystus is also mentioned in conjunction with the -bridge in other passages; but it is unnecessary to quote them, as the -present state of the ground assists us in determining its position, the -slope of Sion being much less here than at any other part of the east -side. In the careful investigations that I have made on the west side of -the Tyropoeon, I found evidence that the surface had been levelled in -the direction of the street of David; this however did not extend -southwards beyond the point opposite to the south-west corner of the -_Haram-es-Sherif_, where the ground is very much broken with steep faces -of rock; therefore, as I cannot suppose that a public place would be on -an uneven site, I imagine that the Xystus began at the street of David -and ended before it came opposite to the south-west corner of the -_Haram_. - -The Palace of the Council was probably situated in the position of the -present _Mekhemeh_. The number of stones of Jewish workmanship of the -Herodian period in the foundation of the present building, and its -position with reference to the Xystus and the Temple, are strong -arguments in favour of this identification[117]. This is all that I have -been able to gather about the northern part of the first line of walls; -excavations being impossible, from the nature of the place, and still -more of the inhabitants. - -On the west, the first wall started from _Hippicus_ and "extended -through a place called _Bethso_ to the _gate of the Essenes_, and after -that it went southward, having its bending above the _fountain of -Siloam_, where it also bends again to the east at _Solomon's pool_, and -reaches as far as a certain place which they called _Ophlas_ (Ophel), -where it was joined to the eastern cloister of the Temple[118]." I have -already stated how I was able to retrace this part of the wall on the -south of Sion and at Ophel, and have no more to add, except that I -found, during my investigations on Sion, great vaulted cisterns hewn out -in the rock, remains of conduits, also cut in the solid rock, and ruined -caverns, which had obviously once been reservoirs; but all these -occurred inside the circuit of the wall, that I have laid down on the -Plan, and never outside; shewing that one part had been formerly covered -by houses, the other not. The position of _Bethso_ is unknown: some -think that the word means "house of filth:" one Rabbi supposes it to -have been a place where waters met; however, I have not been able to -find out anything certain about it. - -The site of the _gate of the Essenes_ is also unknown to us: I place it -at the south-east angle of the City of David, because this position -seems to suit best the Greek text of Josephus--"the wall extended -downwards to the gate of the Essenes[119];" moreover, from this point I -see that the wall could bend to the south, while, from a higher -position, a very irregular course must be given it, in order to obtain -this angle. - -The positions of the fountain of Siloam and the pool of Solomon cannot -be doubted. As the latter is filled with earth, I was obliged to make -excavations, in order to ascertain whether it still retained marks of -its antiquity. I found that the wall on the east side, especially in its -lower part, was of ancient Jewish work; so also were parts of the -north-west side and the east extremities of the other two walls. The -pool is from 7-3/4 to 10 feet deep on the south-east, and 14 feet on the -north-west. I have no doubt that it is as old as the time of Solomon, -and think it may be the one named by the prophet Isaiah, "Ye made also a -ditch between the two walls for the waters of the old pool, but ye have -not looked unto the maker thereof, neither had respect unto him that -fashioned it long ago[120]." - -Josephus does not directly state that the east side of Sion, above the -Tyropoeon valley, was fortified, but we may infer it, as he[121] tells -us that, when Titus had gained possession of the Temple and Ophel and -all the north part of Jerusalem, he laid siege to the Upper City, which -must have fallen at once, if there had not been a wall defending it on -the east. We can hardly suppose that the Jews would have built it at the -time, after seeing the fall of their strongest bulwarks, the tower -Antonia and the Temple, nor would an obstacle hastily thrown up, and -therefore weak, have arrested the victorious Romans. - -The second wall is thus described: it "took its beginning from that gate -which they called _Gennath_, which belonged to the first wall; it only -encompassed the northern quarter of the city, and reached as far as the -_tower Antonia_[122]." I have already mentioned the addition made to -the city of David and its probable extent, in speaking of Jerusalem at -the time of Solomon: consequently I now have only to give the reasons -that have induced me to fix the position of the places, and see whether -they agree with the narrative of the historian. There are but two points -to give in the line of the wall, the _gate Gennath_, whose position we -must determine, and the _tower Antonia_, which was situated at the -north-west angle of the platform[123] of the Temple, and whose position -we may consider to be nearly ascertained. I place the gate Gennath (i.e. -of gardens) east of the tower Hippicus, in the northern part of the -first wall, at the place where I stated that I had found an ancient -Jewish semicircular arch. From its name we may infer that it opened on -cultivated land, and Josephus[124] speaks of the gardens on the north -and north-west of the city, which were destroyed by the troops of Titus -in levelling the ground. If the Pool of Hezekiah be the same as the pool -_Amygdalon_[125] (of almonds), we may infer that probably plantations of -almonds were in this neighbourhood. We must also recollect that if the -sepulchre of Joseph of Arimathea were on the north-west, there would be -a garden here[126]. Now as all the gates of Jerusalem in former times -were named from their position or destination, it is very probable that -this was called the _garden gate_, because the road to the gardens went -through it; and indeed on excavating by the side of the arch above -named, I found the two piers, which have been preserved by the -accumulation of the earth. The arch, visible for about five feet above -ground, is formed of large stones, rusticated, although the work has -been much injured by time. They are firmly fastened together inside with -iron clamps without mortar, that which I saw being merely superficial, -and introduced by the Arabs during repairs. The two piers are -constructed of similar masonry, but here the rustic work is very -conspicuous. I discovered that the gate was founded on the rock, was 18 -feet high and 8-1/2 wide. It is buried by a mass of rubbish, that here, -as elsewhere, has raised the true level of the soil. The position of the -gate (looking west) is not incompatible with its having formed part of a -line of defence from the tower Hippicus to the Xystus; because not only -were angles admitted into the systems of fortifications of that time, -but also, with regard to Jerusalem, we are told by Tacitus[127] that -"Walls with re-entering angles and curves, to take the assailants in -flank, enclosed two very high hills." - -In the immediate neighbourhood of the tower Hippicus I was not able to -find any ancient remains, and therefore suppose that the wall commenced -at this gate. I sought for its ruins, along a line northwards from this -point, but was at first unsuccessful; although I found a fragment of a -building on the east side of the plot of land formerly occupied by the -convent of S. Mary the Great[128], which may possibly belong to an early -period; but I had afterwards three opportunities of learning that I was -not mistaken, in expecting to find the required evidence somewhere in -this part. (1) In January 1857, the weight of a quantity of fallen snow -threw down a part of the wall of a Mohammedan Bazaar[129], called the -Meat Bazaar, near the above-named convent. By order of the Governor I -repaired it in 1858, and in digging down to the rock to lay the new -foundations, at a depth of 10 feet below the surface, came upon large -stones, boldly rusticated, and arranged in a manner that reminded me of -the Phoenician work of the time of Solomon. This wall is nine feet -thick, and consists of three courses of stone, the first, which lies on -the rock, being 3-1/4 feet in height, the second 2, and the third 2-1/2; -thus an extension both north and south from this spot was proved by this -fragment. (2) In 1858 the Russian mission at Jerusalem, by my -suggestion, obtained a piece of land near to the church[130] of the -Resurrection on the east. In 1859 they cleared away the accumulated -rubbish, and during the work a corner of a Jewish wall was discovered; -the stones of which were rusticated to a depth of 4 or 5 lines, and -carefully finished; these were the remains of a restoration of the time -of the Herods on the ancient foundation of Solomon's wall. (3) In 1860 -the dragoman of the French consul built a house, close to the west side -of the present _judgement-gate_, and in digging down for the rock found, -at a depth of 18 feet below the surface, a fragment of a wall, -resembling in all respects that described above in the first case. From -these three points I ascertained the course of the west side of the -wall; it remained therefore to search for the northern face towards the -Damascus gate; and an opportunity occurred before long, when the Greek -Archimandrite Bisarion repaired and strengthened a house (now -temporarily occupied by the Russian consulate). I dug some pits to -examine its foundation, but no remains of antiquity were discovered, and -the only result of my labours was to ascertain the true level of ancient -Jerusalem at this spot. I made enquiries of all, who in former years had -built in this neighbourhood, but could not hear that any Jewish ruins -had ever been found, and therefore think that the wall must have turned -sharp to the east at the _judgement-gate_ (formerly the gate of -Ephraim), and so, facing the north, gone on to the tower Antonia. The -occurrence of very large stones, evidently of Jewish work, in the walls -of the houses (especially in the lower parts) in this direction confirms -this idea. These were found when the Effendi Kadduti repaired and partly -rebuilt the house in the Via Dolorosa, at the _Station of Veronica_. A -similar discovery was made by the Mufti, in strengthening his house, at -the _Station of Simon of Cyrene_; and by the Effendi Soliman Giari, -opposite to the Mufti's house on the north. The Armenian Catholic Monk -requested me to examine and level a piece of land, at the _Station of -the first fall of Christ_, which, as representative of his nation, he -had just bought. In the lower part of the wall enclosing it on the north -very large stones and an ancient gate were found. - -In the foundations of the Austrian hospice, laid in 1857, to the north -of the Armenian property, large stones were discovered, and also, -farther to the east, in the new convent of the Daughters of Sion. From -all these facts, I infer that the line of the second wall passed along -this side. I may also remark that the Greek text of Josephus states that -the wall "went up to the Antonia[131];" and we can still see, from the -conformation of the ground in this direction, that, after crossing the -Tyropoeon valley, it would _go up_ to the tower. The assertion that -the second wall "only encompassed the northern quarter of the city," is -true, because, at the time of Josephus, Hezekiah's wall must have been -standing, and therefore considered to form part of the second line. I -once supposed that the gate Gennath was near the tower Hippicus on the -east, and that consequently the second wall went in a zigzag course -until it joined the Antonia: but, as mentioned above, I did not find any -traces of it very near the tower Hippicus, and I think that if the gate -of Gennath had been close to this, the historian would have mentioned -it. I have already said that I attribute this wall to Solomon, because -it is mentioned in the Bible in connection with events after his time. - -Josephus states that "the beginning of the third wall was at the tower -Hippicus, where it reached as far as the north quarter of the city and -the tower Psephinus, and then was so far extended till it came over -against the monuments of Helena, which Helena was queen of Adiabene, the -daughter of Izates; it then extended farther to a great length, and -passed by the royal caverns (+spelaion+), and bent again at the tower of -the corner, at the monument which is called the Monument of the Fuller, -and joined to the old wall at the valley called the Valley of the -Kidron[132]." In laying down the course of this wall I differ from all -those (in particular Barclay, Schultz and Robinson) who, up to the -present time, have written on the topography of ancient Jerusalem. I am -led to do this by the careful investigations, which, during a long time, -I carried on in the district north of the city. It is my positive -opinion that the ancient walls did not extend to the north beyond the -present enclosure; that is, that they began at the Jaffa gate, passed by -the Damascus gate, and ended at the north-east corner of the -_Haram-es-Sherif_. Let me now state the facts which have led me to this -conclusion. - -In 1860 the Greek convent repaired the building outside the Jaffa[133] -gate, now used as a custom-house. Wishing to lay some foundations -against the city wall, I came, on digging down, upon those of Agrippa's, -which rest upon the rock; now we know that this wall near to Hippicus -was defended by the steep slope of the side of the valley, and that -where this ceased, towards the north-west corner, a ditch was cut in the -rock. This may still be seen, and is a proof that I am right in -supposing the present to be the wall that went from Hippicus to -Psephinus. - -At the north-west corner a massive ruin still exists inside the city, -rising about twenty feet above the ground, and built of small stones -joined with strong mortar; in the south-west corner however are found -large stones, rusticated after the Herodian pattern. On digging about -the shapeless pile, I discovered that courses of similar stones -continued down to the rock. I also found two sides of masonry, and many -large rusticated stones buried in the rubbish, and traces of a great -cistern. Hence I consider this to be the site of the tower Psephinus, an -octagon in form, and seventy cubits high[134]. Beyond these ruins, -outside the present wall, is a ditch cut in the rock, unquestionably a -work of the Herodian age, for no later conquerors would have had the -time or desire to execute such a great and costly work. It is now -concealed by rubbish, but it runs eastward parallel to the present wall, -which therefore can scarcely have extended beyond it, in the course laid -down by Barclay, Schultz, and many others. - -The position I assign to Psephinus is the highest point in the city; -therefore as the tower was seventy cubits high, we can understand that -from its top the confines of Arabia and the sea (the Dead Sea) might be -visible; indeed the latter may even now be seen from the terraces of the -highest houses in the neighbourhood of the ruins. I call particular -attention to this, because some have supposed that Josephus meant the -Mediterranean; which cannot be seen even from the higher station of -Mount Olivet. Besides he tells us that the tower was _at_ the north-west -corner of the wall[135]. The position assigned to Psephinus by Schultz, -about 1800 feet from the corner, _along_ the line, is not only a very -bad one in a strategic point of view, being in a hollow and commanded by -higher ground in front, but also would not have given a glimpse of the -sea had the tower been double the height. Barclay's position is to the -north-west and beyond the present wall, but nearer to mine and on higher -ground, so that it satisfies the historian's conditions, but still is -inadmissible, because it would be on a plateau without any defences, and -would therefore have been easily taken by the Romans, instead of giving -them some trouble. - -I believe that Schultz fixed upon his position because a pool and some -fragments of a wall, which he considered ancient, were found there. The -reservoir is however too small and is an oblong, and therefore ill -suited for an octagonal tower; in which we should at least expect to -find a square. I examined the wall by excavations, and found it to be -only an Arab work: some stones, large but not thick, are the only things -that have a look of antiquity, and this character is not decisive -because they are embedded in mortar; in fact they are only the remains -of some slabs that have once been used in a conduit. Barclay has -certainly made the most of the reservoir of the _Meidan_; but in his -time it was filled with rubbish, and therefore could not be examined. I -have seen it empty, and its dimensions are nine feet deep, twenty long, -and ten wide. It is therefore too small for the tower. I have surveyed -and carefully investigated all the ground near it, for the Russian -Mission and for Signor Tanus (the owner of the reservoir), but could not -discover the slightest trace either of defensive works, or a wall, or -detached stones, to induce me to believe that a fortification ever -occupied this spot, but on the contrary found rock, either quite bare or -thinly covered with a red clayey soil. Other writers have assigned other -positions to Psephinus, which are either near the above, and so open to -the same objections, or else do not agree with the account of Josephus. - -At the north-west corner the wall turns to the east, and after about 150 -paces, before arriving at the Damascus Gate, we come to a new Greek -building, touching the city-wall. When the foundations of this were -laid, I examined a piece of wall, entirely of the age of the Agrippas, -some stones of which are still visible. From this we see that a part of -the wall, or a tower, was formerly on this spot, in accordance with my -opinion. - -The present Damascus Gate[136] bears strong testimony to the fact that -Agrippa's wall once passed by it. It is flanked, east and west, by two -towers, that are conspicuous objects from inside the city; their bases -are entirely composed of large stones of the Herodian period. They are -twenty cubits square[137], and solid up to the ancient level of the -ground. I believe them to be the 'women's towers' mentioned by -Josephus[138]. I say the ancient level, because in a reservoir outside -the gate, on the east, I discovered traces of another gate, at a lower -level than and supporting the present Damascus Gate. In the south wall -of this there is a segment of a semicircular arch, 12 feet wide and 26 -high, the stones forming the side piers are large and rusticated, those -of the arch itself are also large but smooth. I discovered it in -January, 1861. This I believe to be identical with the 'North Gate' of -Josephus, through which the Jews made a sortie to disturb Titus' first -reconnoissance of the city[139]. On both sides, without the present -gate, are large stones, rusticated, of the Herodian period, some in the -lower part of the present wall, others forming a sort of terrace above -the road. - -About 980 feet north of the Damascus Gate is an isolated rock rising 8 -or 10 feet above the ground, and bearing inside and out traces of the -hand of man. In the east side is an aperture, which resembles the doors -in the sepulchres of the Kings, of the Judges and of Aceldama, and, like -these, has been closed by a heavy stone moving on two hinges, the holes -for which are still visible. It leads into a ruined cistern, nearly -filled with rubbish. I had often been struck by the resemblance this -presented to an ancient sepulchre, and thought that in that case it -might be the tomb of Helena, but several difficulties stood in my way, -and it is to the intelligent co-operation of M. Edmond de Barrere, -French Consul at Jerusalem, that I am indebted for the confirmation of -my idea. During our investigation at this place, we discovered that the -rock appeared to be cut into the form of the base of a pyramid; also, by -excavating inside the cistern, we found traces of tombs hewn in the -rock. Hence I conclude that this is the site of the tomb of Helena. This -is not the only instance where the resting-places of the dead have been -profaned. Near the tombs of the Judges, and to the north of the head of -the Kidron valley, changes of this kind are common: so too at the -sepulchres of Aceldama the peasants of Siloam have converted some into -dwelling-houses, others into barns. We know the history of some of the -accidents that have befallen the grave of Helena; for a church was built -on the same rock by the Empress Eudoxia, between the years A.D. 450 and -461, and dedicated to S. Stephen, who was said by tradition to have been -stoned there; it was destroyed by the Saracens on the approach of the -Crusaders. These rebuilt it, completing the work about the middle of the -twelfth century; but destroyed it again A.D. 1187, fearing that Saladin -would use it to cover his troops in attacking the city. This site -satisfies another condition given by Josephus, when he says that the -tomb was "distant no more than three stadia from the city of -Jerusalem[140]." Now he invariably uses the words 'city of Jerusalem' to -express the part enclosed by the first or second line of walls, and 'the -new city' or 'Bezetha' for that within the third. Agrippa's wall, -commenced A.D. 44, and continued A.D. 66, by the Jews[141], was lying in -an unfinished state at the time of Helena's death; consequently, I -understand that Josephus intended the three stadia to be reckoned from -the second wall. S. Jerome[142], speaking of the Journey of Paula, -states that, coming from Ramah and Gabaah, she left the tomb of Helena -on the left hand, and then entered Jerusalem. The ancient road from -Ramah, whose remains may still be seen, passed a little to the north of -the sepulchres of the Kings, and then turning to the N.W., left the -monument of Helena on the left and entered Jerusalem. The distance from -the north gate, as determined by me, is another very strong argument for -this position. - -The following Jewish tradition also confirms my opinion. It is the -custom for the Jews, every year, about the time of the Feast of -Pentecost, to leave Jerusalem by the Damascus Gate, and pass the whole -day in visiting this rock, the sepulchres of the Kings, the supposed -tomb of Simon the Just, and a grotto, opposite to this, looking south, -called in Arabic _Jadagat el-Ahel_, that is, "store of food" or "alms of -food[143]." They repeat their visit, or rather pilgrimage, for three -days, and never return to the city without scrupulously visiting these -four places. I asked educated Jews the reason of this custom, and was -told that from this direction a great Queen had come, who, during a -severe famine, had brought large supplies of food to Jerusalem, which -were deposited in the above-named grotto; that on her death she wished -to be buried on the north near the city; (I asked them to point out the -place, but they could not), and consequently they went out in respectful -remembrance of her, (they did not know even her name,) and also to visit -the tombs of their ancestors. Thus, though the tradition does not fix -the exact place of the grave, it shews that it was near the city, and -indicates the direction in which it lay. - -Close to the outer side of the wall, a little to the east of the -Damascus gate, is a large deep hollow, almost entirely enclosed on the -south, east, and north, by bare rock, which has evidently been worked at -some very distant period[144]. In the upper part of the south side is a -hole, opening into a long deep cavern extending southward and eastward -under the city; and facing this, to the north, is the (commonly called) -grotto of Jeremiah. These are nothing but ancient stone-quarries, which -I consider to be the _Royal Caverns_ of Josephus, and believe that the -stones, which at different times have been used to build the city walls -and the Temple, have been, at least in great part, taken from them. They -were separated one from another, as at present, partly in getting the -stone and partly in fortifying the north of the New City (Bezetha) with -a ditch, which still runs eastward along the wall till it arrives at the -pool near S. Mary's gate. It is cut entirely in the rock, like the one -on the north-west in front of the tower Psephinus, and is a regular -defence for the city-walls. As similar works have never been found in -any other part of the district on the north, its occurrence at this -place seems a strong argument in favour of my theory. I also compared -the levels of the bottom of the hollow in front of the cavern, and of -the Tyropoeon valley, with the old level of the north gate, and found -they correspond. I further ascertained that the road sloped gently -towards the Temple, so that the huge blocks could have been easily -transported. We may remark also that Josephus uses different words to -express Cavern and Sepulchre[145]; and that the word used in speaking of -this place does not apply to a place of burial. I conclude therefore -that these are the Royal Caverns of Josephus, and if it be objected that -this position restricts too much the line of Agrippa's wall, I ask to -what other place on the north this name can be applied. - -To the east of the Royal Caverns is Herod's gate, and a little below it, -in the same direction, the lower part of the present wall for four -courses above the ground is of Herodian work; another point in favour of -my theory. - -It is stated that "the wall bent again at the tower of the corner, at -the monument which is called the Monument of the Fuller[146]." We must -now endeavour to assign the position of these two. I place the tower -inside the present wall at its north-east corner, where massive masonry -may still be seen on a level with the ground. The Monument of the Fuller -is entirely destroyed, and its place cannot be exactly determined. -Still, two passages in the Bible give some clue: Josiah burnt the grove -which he had removed from the house of the Lord "at the brook Kidron, -and stamped it small to powder, and cast the powder thereof upon the -graves of the children of the people[147];" also, Jehoiakim slew Urijah -"with the sword, and cast his dead body into the graves of the common -people[148]." Now in the valley of the Kidron, east of the corner of the -wall, are some rocks bearing evident traces of workmanship, but so much -injured and weatherworn, and so covered with rubbish, that it is -impossible to say whether they have belonged to a monument or not; but -there are some signs of sepulchres; so, as the 'graves of the common -people' are in the valley of Kidron, I am inclined to think that this -may have been the Fullers Monument. The highway of the Fuller's field is -mentioned in 2 Kings xviii. 17, Isaiah xxxvi. 2, and some think that -this is connected with the monument named by Josephus; but the two -things are quite distinct, and there is no reason why the former should -be near the latter. After passing the monument the wall joined the old -wall, which now forms the north-east corner of the _Haram-es-Sherif_. - -Having thus examined the line of the walls, let us try to prove, both -from the historian's words and the conformation of the ground, that the -city cannot have extended to the north beyond its present limits. - -It is stated[149] that "the third wall had ninety towers (twenty cubits -square), and the spaces between them were each two hundred cubits, but -in the middle wall were fourteen towers[150], and the old wall was -divided by sixty; while the whole compass of the city was thirty-three -stadia." Now it is quite credible that the middle and old walls had the -above numbers of towers, but it is very hard to understand how the third -could have had ninety, and these two hundred cubits apart. If each tower -was twenty cubits square, then the space occupied by towers would be -eighteen hundred cubits; and if they were two hundred cubits apart, the -sum of their distances would be eighteen thousand cubits; so that the -whole length of the third wall would have been nineteen thousand eight -hundred cubits; which is equal to about nine thousand seven hundred and -ninety-one yards, or _forty-eight stadia_. This, besides being greater -than the whole compass of the city (thirty-three stadia), is far too -large for even the space claimed by Barclay; because in order to obtain -a measurement of this extent, we must suppose a part of the Scopus -itself to have been included within the walls. There must therefore, as -it appears to me, be some error in the text of Josephus in the number -'ninety,' so that no argument can be founded upon it. The position, -however, which I assign to the wall, agrees very well with the -thirty-three stadia, given by the historian as the whole length of the -walls[151]. - -My theory is also supported by the description of Titus' wall of -circumvallation[152]. "He began the wall from the _Camp of the -Assyrians_, where his own camp was pitched; and drew it down to the -lower parts of the New City; thence it went along the valley of the -Kidron to the Mount of Olives; it then bent towards the south, and -encompassed the mountain as far as the rock called _Peristereon_, and -that other hill which lies next it; and is over against the valley which -reaches to Siloam; whence it tended again to the west, and went down to -the valley of the fountain, beyond which it went up again at the -_Monument of Ananus_ the high priest; and encompassing that mountain -where Pompeius had formerly pitched his camp, it returned back to the -north side of the city, and was carried on as far as a certain village -called the _House of the Erebinthi_, after which it encompassed _Herod's -Monument_, and there on the east was joined to Titus' own camp, where it -began. Now, the length of this wall was thirty-nine stadia. Now, at this -wall without were erected thirteen places to keep garrison in, whose -circumferences put together amounted to ten stadia." - -Of the places mentioned in the above description, the camp of the -Assyrians is at the north-west corner of the present line of walls, two -stadia distant from which were the head-quarters of Titus[153]. - -I cannot ascertain the position of the rock Peristereon (dovecote). -According to Schultz this word has the same meaning as the Latin -'Columbarium[154],' and he identified it with the so-called 'Tombs of -the Prophets[155],' but this does not correspond with the 'Columbarium' -of the Romans. Its position indeed, at the first glance, seems to agree -with the _data_ of Josephus; but his words appear more applicable to a -prominent rock than to a monument, which moreover is too far up the -hill-side to be included in the line of circumvallation. I believe -therefore that the Peristereon of Josephus was situated at the north -entrance of the present village of Siloam, where the rocks still bear -marks of having been extensively quarried. - -The Monument of Ananus has been identified by Schultz with the present -tomb of S. Onuphrius, a building in the Doric style, situated in -Aceldama; we will examine it more minutely hereafter. - -I also agree with Schultz in placing the village, called 'House of -Erebinthi' (chick peas), in the valley of Gihon to the west of -_Birket-es-Sultan_, at a spot marked by some ruins, quarried rock, and a -considerable number of cisterns hewn in the rock; called by the Arabs, -_Kasr-el-Asfur_ or _el-Ghazal_ (castle of the young sparrow or of the -gazelle) and _Abu-Wair_. Near, and to the west of _Birket Mamillah_, is -a large mass of ruins, covering some sepulchral caves, which are -identified by Schultz with Herod's monument. Though it is difficult to -recognise in them the customary magnificence of that family, still the -position suits the account of Josephus. They were injured in the early -ages of Christianity on the building of the Greek church of St Babylas, -which was afterwards destroyed by the Persians under Chosroes II., and -to which the present remains belong. - -Some authors are very anxious to extend Jerusalem towards the north -(since this is impossible on the south), in order to make it large -enough to contain the immense population, and the numbers of dead and -prisoners recorded by Josephus[156]. But Hecataeus of Abdera, cited by -the historian[157], reckons its inhabitants, at the time of Alexander -the Great, at 120,000; is it then possible that the population of the -city could have so greatly increased in four centuries, during which -Palestine had been drained by numerous emigrations and frequent -revolutions, and was the field of constant and bloody strife[158]? Nor -must we forget that the defenders were not more than 25,000, nor the -besiegers more than 60,000[159]. Could not then so great a population -(about 2,000,000) furnish a larger garrison for the defence of their -Palladium? Though Titus might have reckoned on the intestine struggles -among the Jews, would he even then, skilful general and experienced -warrior as he was, have undertaken so hazardous an enterprise? Could he -have approached so large and populous a city with an army relatively so -weak? We do not need more evidence to convince us that either the -historian has included in his numbers the prisoners and dead of the -whole war, or has indulged in exaggeration, or else that the figures -have been wrongly transcribed. - -Let us also consider the conformation of the ground on the north. -Josephus has distinctly stated that the city was enclosed by a triple -wall, except on the side of the valleys, where there was but one, as -this part was inaccessible[160]. These few words appear to me to be -fatal to any theory that lays down Agrippa's wall near the Tombs of the -Kings. If he had begun to build it on the ridge south of the upper part -of the Kidron valley, the Jews would of course have completed it on the -same spot, and Josephus would not have omitted to state that the city -was defended to a considerable extent by a valley on the north. But on -this point he is silent, and finding his description correct in other -respects, I cannot suppose that he has made an omission in this. If it -be contended that the upper part of the Kidron valley is too shallow to -be worth mention, I reply, that it is from 16 to 24 feet deep, and was -no doubt deeper in the time of Josephus; who therefore would not have -failed to observe that there was also a valley on the north, which at -any rate was quite deep enough to be a formidable obstacle to an attack -from that side. Again, suppose that the city-wall had come up to the -Tombs of the Kings, or stood a little to the south of them, what would -then have been the use of Titus' reconnoissance from Gofna with 600 -horse[161]; thus uselessly exposing himself to danger, when he could -have examined the place better, and even exhorted the people to submit, -from Mount Scopus. Had the city extended thus far, it would have been -open to view and exposed to an attack on the north-west, being closely -surrounded by higher hills; nor would a skilful general like Titus have -given his men the trouble of levelling the ground from Scopus up to -Herod's monument[162], needlessly increasing the labours of his troops, -and exposing them to constant attacks from the Jews. He certainly would -not have moved his camp to a position two stadia distant from both -Psephinus and Hippicus[163], because he could easily have attacked the -city at any point between the Tombs of the Kings and Psephinus. Lastly, -I assert that no signs of defensive works, natural or artificial, are -found to the north or north-west of the present walls. From the Jaffa -Gate to the Tombs of the Kings, and thence to the north-east corner of -the walls, there is not the slightest trace of the foundation or the -masonry of the outer wall; no great hewn stones scattered over or buried -in the ground; nothing but twenty-six vaulted cisterns, hollowed out in -the rock, and four very small pools, which could not have supplied the -large population that must have covered this space; the rock, though in -places worked, is generally rough and untouched by any tool; the soil is -everywhere red and clayey, its natural condition; another proof that it -was never built over, for where the houses have been destroyed by fire -or age, it is of a blackish or greyish colour, and contains fragments of -walls or at least hewn stones in plenty. Let any one examine the south -part of Sion or Ophel and contradict my assertion if he can. On the -south heaps of broken stones and rubbish are scattered over a grey soil; -on the north is bare rock, or a scanty though rich virgin earth. - -Some, however, infer an extension of the city to the north, from the -occurrence not only of cisterns but also of small cubes of stone, -belonging to mosaic pavements, and of certain walls which, without -proper examination, have been considered to be ancient Jewish work. But -these remains are not of any value, because, as stated by Josephus[164], -there were houses and gardens in the neighbourhood of Jerusalem to the -north. We may indeed infer the same from the words of Nehemiah[165], -because we cannot imagine persons engaged in the service of the Temple -living elsewhere in the environs of the city, on account of the great -number of tombs in every other part. Houses also stood here at the time -of the Crusades, and a church, dedicated to the Martyrdom of S. Stephen; -therefore the occurrence of some mosaics and stones is easily accounted -for. For all these reasons I deny that the walls extended farther to the -north than their present position; and if the advocates of other -theories are not convinced, I invite them to examine the places for -themselves, when they will see that I have spoken the truth. - -A Roman garrison was left by Titus at Jerusalem, after the work of -destruction was completed, to watch over the ruins and prevent any -attempt at restoring the city[166]; and it was not till 60 years -afterwards that Hadrian sent thither a heathen colony to rebuild it and -call it _Aelia_, after his name Aelius. A temple to Jupiter Capitolinus -was erected on the site of the ancient Temple, whence the epithet -_Capitolina_. He forbade the Jews to enter the territory of Jerusalem -under pain of death, in order, according to Ariston of Pella[167], that -they might not behold the home of their fathers even from afar. He also -caused the effigy of a pig to be sculptured in marble on the gate -leading to Bethlehem; an animal unclean to the Jews, but one of the -Roman standards[168]. The southern part of Sion was excluded from his -city, and all agree that its form and size coincided with the present. -On this point we have the testimony of the Pilgrim of Bordeaux[169], who -visited the place early in the fourth century, during the building of -the Church of the Resurrection by Constantine. - -At the time of the arrival of the Crusaders Jerusalem had not undergone -any material change, as we learn from El Edrisi[170], who finished his -work January, A.D. 1154, Benjamin of Tudela, who visited it A.D. 1173, -and Willibrand of Oldenburgh, who stayed there A.D. 1211. During the -occupation by the Crusaders a ditch extended along the wall from the -south-west corner to the Sion Gate. It is now covered by a street, but -on descending into one of the cisterns which opens into the middle of -the road, I found that they were all in reality formed out of the ditch. -This is the only part of the city of the Crusaders that has disappeared -from view owing to the restorations of Solyman the Magnificent, who -ascended the throne A.D. 1534. - -The form of Jerusalem was not changed in his days, although he greatly -wished it. He had given orders to the architect, who was building the -new walls, to extend them on the side of Sion, so as to include the -whole of that hill. Regard for the sanctity of the place was not his -motive (as many Christians both then and since have thought), but fear, -lest in the event of a siege it might be occupied by an enemy, as a -commanding position on which to collect troops preparatory to an -assault. But when the architect, who hated the Christians, saw their -deep reverence for the place and their desire that it might be included -in the city, he determined to leave it outside as Hadrian had done; -without thinking of the political or military views of his sovereign. He -paid dear for his disobedience, for the Sultan recalled him to give an -account of his actions, and regardless of his religious scruples cut off -his head. - -Having thus given a general idea of modern and ancient Jerusalem, we -will proceed to describe all the objects of interest enclosed within its -walls. - - -FOOTNOTES: - -[36] See the Panorama, Plate I, and Plates II., III., IV. - -[37] 2 Sam. v. 6, 7, 9. - -[38] Jewish War, V. 4, Sec. 1. - -[39] 2 Chron. xxxiii. 14. - -[40] Josh. xv. 8; xviii. 16. - -[41] Jewish War, V. 4, Sec. 1. - -[42] Ibid. - -[43] +amphikyptos+. Whiston translates 'Of the shape of a moon when she -is horned.' - -[44] Gen. xxii. 2, 14. - -[45] 2 Chron. iii. 1. - -[46] Jewish War, V. 4, Sec. 2; 5, Sec. 8. - -[47] Jewish War, V. 5, Sec. 1; Ant. XV. 11, Sec. 3. - -[48] Ant. XV. 11, Sec. 5. - -[49] Jewish War, V. 4, Sec. 2. - -[50] Jewish War, V. 5, Sec. 8. - -[51] Jewish War, V. 4, Sec. 1. - -[52] Note I. - -[53] Ant. XII. 5, Sec. 4; 9, Sec. 3. - -[54] Ant. XIII. 6, Sec. 7; Jewish War, V. 4, Sec. 1. - -[55] Jewish War, V. 4, Sec. 2. - -[56] 2 Sam. xv. 23, 30. - -[57] 1 Kings xi. 7; 2 Kings xxiii. 13. - -[58] Acts i. 12; Note II. - -[59] Jewish War, V. 2, Sec. 3. - -[60] 1 Kings i. 38. See Note XIII. - -[61] 2 Chron. xxxii. 30. - -[62] 2 Chron. xxxiii. 14. - -[63] 2 Kings xxiii. 10; Jer. vii. 31, 32; xix. 11. - -[64] Jer. xix. 6. - -[65] 1 Macc. iv. 61; vi. 26, 31; 2 Macc. xi. 5. - -[66] Note II. - -[67] Ant. XI. 8, Sec. 5; Jewish War, II. 19, Sec. 4; V. 2, Sec. 3. - -[68] Josh. xviii. 16. - -[69] 2 Sam. v. 6, 7. - -[70] Ant. VII. 3, Sec. 1. - -[71] Judges i. 21. - -[72] Ant. V. 2, Sec. 2. - -[73] Note III. - -[74] 2 Sam. v. 9; 1 Chron. xi. 7. - -[75] 2 Sam. v. 11. - -[76] 2 Sam. v. 9. - -[77] 1 Chron. xi. 8. - -[78] Note IV. - -[79] Marked with black on the Plan of the Ancient City. Plate II. - -[80] Note V. - -[81] 2 Sam. v. 9; 1 Chron. xi. 8. - -[82] Plate XXXI. - -[83] 2 Chron. iii. 1. - -[84] 2 Sam. xxiv. 16-25; 1 Chron. xxi. 18. - -[85] 1 Kings ix. 15; xi. 27. - -[86] Ant. VIII. 2, Sec. 1; 6, Sec. 1. - -[87] 1 Kings ix. 15, 24. - -[88] 1 Kings xi. 27. - -[89] 2 Kings xii. 20. - -[90] 2 Kings xxii. 14 (margin); Zeph. i. 10. - -[91] 2 Chron. xxvii. 3. - -[92] 2 Chron. xxxii. 5. - -[93] Plate XXXI. - -[94] Note VI. - -[95] 2 Chron. xxxiii. 14. - -[96] Jewish War, V. 4, Sec. 2. - -[97] 2 Kings xiv. 13; 2 Chron. xxv. 23. - -[98] Jer. xxxi. 38. - -[99] 2 Chron. xxvi. 9. - -[100] 2 Chron. xxiii. 15; Jer. xxxi. 40. - -[101] 2 Chron. xxxiii. 14; Zeph. i. 10. - -[102] Jer. xx. 2. - -[103] 2 Kings xxv. 4; Jer. lii. 7. - -[104] Note VII. - -[105] For what follows see Neh. ch. iii. - -[106] Neh. xii. 31, 37, 38, 39. - -[107] Neh. ii. 13. - -[108] Jewish War, V. 4, Sec. 1, 2, 3. - -[109] Plate V. - -[110] Note VIII. - -[111] Jewish War, V. 4, Sec. 3. - -[112] Plate VI. - -[113] Jewish War, VII. 1, Sec. 1. - -[114] Ibid. V. 3, Sec. 5. - -[115] Ant. XX. 8, Sec. 11. - -[116] Jewish War, VI. 6, Sec. 2. - -[117] Note IX. - -[118] Jewish War, V. 4, Sec. 2. - -[119] +Dia de tou Bethso kaloumenou choriou katateinon epi ten Essenon -pylen.+ - -[120] Isaiah xxii. 1, 11. - -[121] Jewish War, VI. 7, Sec. 2; 8, Sec. 1. - -[122] Ibid. V. 4, Sec. 2. - -[123] Jewish War, V. 5, Sec. 8. - -[124] Ibid. V. 3, Sec. 2. - -[125] Ibid. V. 11, Sec. 4. - -[126] S. John xix. 41. - -[127] "Duos colles, in immensum editos, claudebant muri per artem -obliqui, aut introrsus sinuati ut latera oppugnantium ad ictus -patescerent."--Hist. V. 11; Note X. - -[128] Plate XXX. - -[129] Plate XXX. - -[130] Plate XXX. - -[131] +Aneei mechri tes Antonias.+ - -[132] Jewish War, V. 4, Sec. 2. - -[133] Plate V. - -[134] Jewish War, V. 4, Sec. 3. - -[135] Ibid. V. 3, Sec. 3; 4, Sec. 3. - -[136] Plate VII. - -[137] Jewish War, V. 4, Sec. 3. - -[138] Ibid. V. 2, Sec. 2. - -[139] Ibid. - -[140] Ant. XX. 4, Sec. 3. - -[141] Jewish War, V. 4, Sec. 2. - -[142] Jerome, Ep. CVIII. Ed. Migue, (_Ad Eustochium virginem_). - -[143] Plate LVII. - -[144] Plates VIII., IX. - -[145] +spelaion+ (cavern), +mnemeion+ (sepulchre). - -[146] Jewish War, V. 4, Sec. 2. - -[147] 2 Kings xxiii. 6. - -[148] Jer. xxvi. 23. - -[149] Jewish War, V. 4, Sec. 3. - -[150] Whiston reads 'forty' instead of fourteen; the latter is the -number in the Greek text. - -[151] Note II. - -[152] Jewish War, V. 12, Sec. 2. - -[153] Ibid. V. 7, Sec. 3. - -[154] Columbarium means not only a dovecote, but also a sepulchre, with -niches for urns. - -[155] Plate LIV. - -[156] Jewish War, V. 13, Sec. 7; VI. 9, Sec. 3. - -[157] c. Apion. I. 22. - -[158] See the Chronological Table. - -[159] Jewish War, V. 1, Sec. 6; 6, Sec. 1. - -[160] Ibid. V. 4, Sec. 1. - -[161] Jewish War, V. 2, Sec. 1. - -[162] Ibid. V. 3, Sec. 2. - -[163] Ibid. V. 3, Sec. 5. - -[164] Jewish War, V. 3, Sec. 2. - -[165] Nehem. xii. 28, 29. - -[166] Jewish War, VII. 1, Sec. 1. - -[167] Eusebius, Eccl. Hist. IV. 6. - -[168] Jerome, 'Interpretatio Chronicae Eusebii Pamphili' (Hadr. An. XX.). - -[169] Note XI. - -[170] Note XII. - - - - -CHAPTER III. - - MOUNT MORIAH AND ITS ENVIRONS--HISTORY IN THE TIME OF ABRAHAM, - JACOB, DAVID, SOLOMON, ZERUBBABEL, ALEXANDER THE GREAT, ANTIOCHUS - EPIPHANES, THE MACCABEES, POMPEIUS, CRASSUS, THE HERODS, TITUS, - HADRIAN, CONSTANTINE, JULIAN THE APOSTATE, OMAR, ABD-EL-MALEK, - VALID OR ELULID, THE CRUSADERS, SALADIN, SELIM I., SOLYMAN - I.--GENERAL EXAMINATION OF MORIAH, WITH DETAILS OF THE - INVESTIGATIONS. - - -Mount Moriah, forming the south-east part of the Lower City, is one of -the points in Jerusalem whose situation can be fixed with the greatest -certainty, from the evidence of the place itself with its ruins and -remains, and from the testimony of ancient authors and local traditions. -At the present day it is surrounded by walls and buildings enclosing -the great plateau, in the middle of which rises the majestic -_Kubbet-es-Sakharah_ (Dome of the Rock), on the site formerly occupied -by the Temple of the God of Israel. The followers of Islam, on their -conquest of Jerusalem, dedicated this spot to the service of their own -faith, under the name of _Beit-el-Mokaddas-es-Sherif_ (the Noble -Sanctuary). They esteemed it the holiest place on earth, after Mecca and -Medina, and, as usual, strictly forbade all unbelievers to enter it. An -accurate and scientific examination of it was not made, so far as we -know, in the days of the Crusaders, and since then, though many have -attempted it, none have succeeded. Ali Bey's description, made A.D. -1807, is correct enough for a traveller, but does not touch upon -questions of archaeology; Catherwood, Bonomi, and Arundale, during -Ibrahim Pasha's occupation of Syria, A.D. 1833, commenced a survey with -plans and views; but were hindered and finally stopped by the fanaticism -of the Arabs, and so obliged to bring to a hasty conclusion a work -carefully begun. Many have spoken before scientific societies and -written on this subject in various publications; some after looking at -the place from the Mount of Olives or the terrace of the Barrack at the -north-west corner of the enclosure, others after a hurried visit; but no -one since the time of its destruction by Titus has examined the ground, -no one has carried on careful and systematic investigations there; all -have been content to speak of what appeared above the soil, and were -consequently ignorant of the objects of far greater interest below. - -In consequence of the late war in the East, Mohammedan fanaticism was -somewhat abated, and Kiamil Pasha, Governor of the city, several times -allowed travellers to visit the _Haram_[171], and kindly gave me -frequent leave to enter it alone, without forming one of the train of -some distinguished visitor; at other times I went in disguise with Arab -friends; but on all these occasions I could only use my eyes, and now -and then venture to measure a distance by stepping it. This was not what -I wanted, for I had determined to construct plans and thoroughly examine -the ground in every direction. My wishes were carried into effect by the -great kindness and powerful protection of Surraya Pasha, who attached me -to his service as honorary architect, and then gave me every opportunity -and assistance in accomplishing my design, during a period lasting from -the beginning of 1857 to August 1861, when I returned to Europe. I have -accordingly examined this celebrated place, patiently and perseveringly, -and with no small sacrifice of time and private means[172]. I have -penetrated into the subterranean works, sought out and classified the -conduits and ascertained their course, constructed plans[173], and now -present the details of my labours to the reader, in confidence that, -even if I have not fully accomplished my design, I am the first to bring -forward many facts useful to archaeology, and that if others continue the -researches (when that is possible) many great problems will be solved. - -The first mention of Moriah in the Bible is when Abraham, in obedience -to the divine command, came to it to offer up his son Isaac, and the -Almighty, satisfied both of the faith of the father and the obedience of -the son, arrested the knife, and substituted another victim[174]. It is -possible that this mount may have been the scene of Jacob's dream[175], -and not the Bethel usually supposed; where at a later period the golden -calf was set up by Jeroboam. Had it been the latter place it is rather -improbable that the patriarch would have halted at so short a distance -from Shechem, when he fled from the vengeance of the neighbours of -Hamor[176]. Moriah is not directly mentioned in the account of David's -conquest of Jerusalem, nor in the history of his reign, but it is -indirectly when his country was smitten by a pestilence, after that, led -astray by pride, he had numbered the people[177]. He repented and -entreated God, who checked the destroying angel's hand, as his sword was -stretched out over Jerusalem. Bidden by the prophet Gad, the King went -out from the city to raise an altar to the Lord on the threshing-floor -of Araunah the Jebusite, near to which he had seen the angel. He found -the owner with his four sons threshing wheat, purchased the floor for -600 shekels of gold, with the oxen for sacrifices, the grain for -meat-offerings, and the instruments for wood; built an altar there, and -called upon the Lord. The fire of heaven descended upon it, and the -angel thrust back his sword into the sheath. He continued to sacrifice -there, saying, "This is the house of the Lord God, and this is the altar -of the burnt-offering for Israel[178]." From the above narrative we see -that the threshing-floor was without the city, and the property of a -Jebusite, that it was a sacred spot, chosen by the Lord himself for his -House, and identical with Moriah. Josephus[179] informs us that this was -the very place to which Abraham brought his son Isaac to offer him as a -burnt-offering. - -Here it will be well to digress a little to describe a 'threshing-floor' -(Goren) of this period. It consisted of a plot of ground, usually rocky, -levelled to allow of the crops being spread out to the air and sun, -ready for the labourers, yet so situated as to be sheltered from the -full force of the prevailing wind. For greater security it was usually -near a dwelling; and, either within the enclosure or in the immediate -neighbourhood, cisterns were hewn in the rock, some to catch the -rain-water, others to hold the grain and other farm produce[180]. The -purposes for which these were designed can be determined from their -form. Those for water have only one chamber, with a shaft (about 2-3/4 -feet wide) opening out into the middle of the roof; the rest have two -chambers, one below the other, communicating by a hole (about 4 feet -wide) in the middle of the floor of the upper[181], which itself opens -to the threshing-floor by a sloping passage (about 3-1/2 feet wide). The -lower cavern is deeper and larger than the upper. - -I have met with very many of these cisterns during my frequent journeys -in Palestine, where they are still applied to their ancient uses; they -are especially common in those Arab villages which stand upon sites -mentioned in the Bible; as at Beth-shemesh, on the road from Jaffa to -Jerusalem just at the east of the village of _El-Atrun_, at _Neby -Samwil_ (formerly Ramah the home of Samuel), at Gibeon and Beth-horon, -at _Beit-zacaria_, the ancient Bath-zacharias[182], at _El-Kebab_ in the -plain of Sharon, and in many other places. - -In the threshing-floor of Araunah there are many cisterns, but I wish to -call especial attention to two very near each other, to the north of the -_Kubbet-es-Sakharah_[183] and to one inside it, beneath the sacred rock; -of which the visitor can only see the hole on the north-east side and -the upper part, but can convince himself by the hollow sound of the -existence of the lower cave. These are, in my opinion, the strongest -proofs of the identity of the position of the mosque and its platform -with the ancient threshing-floor of the Jebusite. I will hereafter -explain how I contrived to explore the interior of the cisterns in a -place of such sanctity. - -David collected materials, and instructed his son to build the Temple on -the spot where he had offered sacrifice; and when Solomon had -established himself upon the throne, he commenced the work, which was to -perpetuate the glory of his reign. As his own dominions were not able to -supply suitable wood for the building, and as his people had not as yet -made sufficient progress in art to enable him to execute his magnificent -designs, he asked Hiram king of Tyre to furnish him with cedars from -Lebanon and Phoenician masons[184], with a skilful artist to direct -the work[185]. His request was granted, a treaty was made between the -two kings[186]: timber was prepared and brought to Jaffa[187] by orders -of Hiram, while Solomon had great blocks of stone, of 8 and 10 -cubits[188], quarried and transported to the spot ready for use, so that -"there was neither hammer, nor axe, nor any tool of iron heard in the -house, while it was in building[189]." Before laying the foundations of -the Temple itself he executed great works to enlarge and strengthen the -ground[190]. Josephus indeed states that the summit of the mountain was -so abrupt and surrounded by precipices, that it was hardly large enough -to support the sacred house and the surrounding buildings, and that in -consequence a wall was built on the east, rising 400 cubits from the -bottom of the valley, and the intervening space filled up with earth to -support a portico[191]. The work began in the fourth year of his reign -in the month _Zif_ (April-May) and lasted seven years[192]. - -I agree with Munk that it is impossible to give an exact description of -this Temple; those found in 1 Kings vi. 7 and 2 Chron. iii. and iv. are -very incomplete, and often hard to reconcile; besides the meaning of the -architectural terms used in them cannot readily be determined. That -given by Josephus frequently differs, especially in dimensions, from -those given in the Bible, and the details which he adds seem based upon -mere conjecture. The numerous modern accounts[193] are very dissimilar -and present great difficulties, when elevations are made from them. We -may therefore conclude that a correct idea of the proportions and -architecture of Solomon's Temple cannot be obtained; consequently I have -put aside during my researches all considerations about the height, -style, and ornamentation of the building, referring my reader to -Josephus[194] and Munk[195], and concerned myself only about the -details relating to the ground-plan. This was an oblong, 60 cubits in -length from east to west, and 20 cubits wide. At the entrance of the -Temple on the east was a portico called _Oulam_, measuring 20 cubits -from north to south, and therefore corresponding with the house, and 10 -cubits from east to west[196]. The Temple itself was divided into two -distinct parts; that in front on the east, called _Hechel_ (Palace), now -the Holy Place, was 40 cubits long; inside it, on the right or north, -was the table of shewbread, on the left the seven-branched candlestick; -between these in front of the veil, the altar of incense. The inner -part, _Debir_ (the Holy of Holies), was twenty cubits square, and -contained the ark alone, in which were the two tables of stone, placed -there by Moses at Horeb[197]. - -The Temple was surrounded by two courts. The inner is mentioned in 1 -Kings vi. 36, but its dimensions are not recorded; it was probably an -oblong, enclosing the building, which stood near the west end, so as to -leave a considerable space in front, where the holy things, used in the -Jewish ritual, were arranged; as none but the Priests could enter this, -it was called the court of the Priests[198]. Besides this there was the -'great' or 'outward' court[199], where the people assembled to worship. -In the middle of the inner court, opposite to the entrance of the -Sanctuary, was placed the great bronze altar of burnt-offerings, which -was 20 cubits square and 10 cubits in height[200]. South-west of this -and south-east of the Temple, was the large laver called from its size -the 'sea of bronze,' 10 cubits in diameter and containing 3,000 -baths[201] of water, used for the lustrations of the priests[202]. -Besides this there were ten other vases, 4 cubits in diameter, five on -either hand, each containing 40 baths[203]; these were used in washing -the burnt-offerings[204]. The effect of these works was to change -entirely the appearance of the Moriah of Abraham and David; but the -threshing-floor of Araunah, which had sustained the original altar, was -handed down to posterity by the succession of events which identified -the spot, and the indelible traces of antiquity, yet to be found there. - -As Solomon had built in the Temple enclosure houses for the -Levites[205], besides the laver and altar of burnt-offering; it was -necessary for him to construct conduits and cisterns to bring, to keep, -and to carry off water for the religious ceremonies and the various -purposes of daily life, as well as to remove the blood of the victims -and other refuse. On this point the Bible is silent, but we can easily -see that there were not any sources of drinkable water in the Temple and -its vicinity, or indeed in the neighbourhood of Jerusalem; and that the -rain-water alone could not be depended upon for a supply sufficient for -the wants of the place; we may therefore assert with confidence that -Solomon must have made great works to bring water from distant sources, -as from Etham (Eccl. ii. 6), where an abundant quantity could always be -obtained; with cisterns to keep it, and conduits attached to convey it -to different parts of the platform of the Sanctuary. - -We are told that the victims were slain on the north, the blood -sprinkled about the altar, and the refuse cast away towards the east, in -the 'place of the ashes[206],' and the Priest's chambers built on the -north side of the altar of burnt-offerings[207]. Hence it follows that -drains must have existed at the altar of burnt-offerings, on the -north-side, and at the 'place of the ashes.' That these and many other -things were constructed by Solomon, we shall presently see from my -investigations in the _Haram-es-Sherif_; I have now only alluded to the -account given in the Bible of the ground-plan of the building, in order -to be more easily understood in describing them. - -Although the Temple was sacked in the reign of Rehoboam by Shishak king -of Egypt[208], and under Amaziah by Joash king of Israel[209], and -repaired by Joash king of Judah[210], it did not undergo any material -change up to the time of its destruction by the Chaldeans. It was set on -fire by order of Nebuchadnezzar, with the rest of Jerusalem, and in a -few days became a heap of ruins. So fell the first Temple of the Lord, -rather more than four centuries after its first foundation[211]. This -done, the Chaldeans carried away a part of the people into captivity, -but left the poorer class to cultivate the land; over whom Gedaliah, -their countryman, was set as governor. He fixed his residence at -Mizpah[212], the abode of Jeremiah, and under his good rule the number -of inhabitants rapidly increased, the fugitives returned from all -quarters, tranquillity and order were established, and the people began -to devote themselves to the vintage and the harvest of summer-fruits[213]; -but before long a traitor, Ishmael, overthrew the hopes of this remnant of -Judah by the murder of Gedaliah[214], after which the greater part of -them, fearing the anger of the king of Babylon, migrated into Egypt, and -settled in the land of Tahpanhes[215], five years after the destruction of -Jerusalem. From these facts, derived from the Bible, it is evident that -the country was never wholly cleared of its inhabitants during the -captivity; and that, as Jeremiah mourned for five years over the ruins of -the city, so might many others follow his example during successive years; -so that the recollection, not only of the site of the Temple, but of its -very details, would be preserved, together with the traces of the ancient -threshing-floor of Araunah, and the cisterns, which must have escaped the -flames. - -Cyrus ascended the throne of Persia B.C. 536, and in the first year of -his reign allowed the Jews to return to Palestine and rebuild the -Temple[216]; fifty-two years after the destruction of the city, and -sixty-three after the exile of King Jehoiakim[217], a numerous band, -headed by Zerubbabel and Joshua, set out for Judaea, and arrived there -after a journey of four months[218]. The next year, B.C. 535, in the -second month, Zerubbabel began to rebuild the Temple, and the new walls -rose among the joyful shouts of the young men, who saw them for the -first time, and the tears of the old, who remembered the greater glories -of the former House[219]. Hence we see that persons, worthy of credit, -who had seen the first Temple, were alive when the second was built; and -therefore cannot but believe that it stood on its ancient foundations. -The Samaritans, ever the rivals of the Jews, wished to share in this -work; and when their offers were rejected, harassed the workmen and -interrupted its progress, until, at last, by sending exaggerated and -false reports to the King, they obtained an order suspending it[220]. -After a lapse of fifteen years, in the second year of Darius, -Zerubbabel[221], instigated by Haggai, re-commenced the building; which -was finished and solemnly inaugurated[222], in the sixth year of Darius -B.C. 517, on the third day of the month _Adar_ (February-March). We do -not find any description of the dimensions and appearance of -Zerubbabel's Temple: according to the decree of Cyrus[223], it was to be -sixty cubits broad and as many high; but these dimensions cannot be -relied on, because we are told that the new edifice was not in any -respect equal to the former[224]. It was visited by Alexander the Great -B.C. 332; and if we can credit Hecataeus of Abdera, a contemporary of the -conqueror, it differed considerably in style and size from Solomon's -Temple; the dimensions of the enclosure in which it stood were six -plethra (606 feet) long and 100 cubits wide; the great altar of -burnt-offerings was built of large white unpolished stones, being 20 -cubits square and 12 high. According to the assertion of Herod the -Great, quoted by Josephus[225], the second House was not so high as the -first. - -Antiochus Epiphanes entered Jerusalem B.C. 170, and after killing many -of the Jews and plundering the Temple, withdrew to Antioch. After two -years he returned, persecuted the people more barbarously than ever, and -profaned the House of the Lord, despoiling it of all that had been left -on the former occasion. He built a fortress in the lower city in a -commanding position, and placed therein a Macedonian garrison to harass -all who went to pray at the Holy Place[226]; still the form of the -Temple and its enclosure remained unaltered during this calamitous -period. - -Never have more glorious deeds been done by any nation than by the Jews -under the rule of the Maccabees, men ever ready to die rather than break -the laws of their God and country. The Temple was recovered and cleansed -from pollution; the sacred things, which had been carried away by the -Syrians, were recaptured; the altar of burnt-offerings, having been -defiled by heathen sacrifices, was destroyed and a new one erected[227]; -the walls surrounding the Temple, which had been pulled down by -Antiochus Eupator, were rebuilt by Jonathan, and strengthened by -towers[228]; the neighbouring fortress on the hill Acra was captured by -Simon, the Macedonian garrison expelled, and the building razed. The -hill itself was levelled, so that it no longer commanded the Temple: -three years of incessant labour, night and day, being spent on the work. -He afterwards fortified Moriah, and built his house upon it[229], -probably on the site at the north-west corner, where his successors -built the castle Baris[230]. In this dwelt Aristobulus, son of Hyrcanus, -by whose orders his brother Antigonus was murdered, at a place in an -underground passage, leading to the castle, called Strato's Tower[231]. -I shall return to this again, as I think that I have discovered it, or -at least been the first to identify it. - -At the time of Pompeius the Great the Temple was joined to the city by a -bridge, which was destroyed by the followers of Aristobulus, as they -retreated within the sacred walls, and prepared to defend themselves -against their assailants, who had called the Roman forces to their aid. -On the north it was protected by high towers and a deep ditch, excavated -with great pains in a valley; and on the west by precipices, which could -not be scaled when the bridge was broken down[232]. The Roman conqueror -entered the sanctuary, but respected its treasures, and permitted the -Jews to carry on their worship without interruption. Crassus, on the -contrary, though only passing through Jerusalem, did not imitate the -moderation of Pompeius, but despoiled it of its treasures and sacred -vessels. The last calamity that befell it was when some of the cloisters -were burnt, during the siege by Herod the Great[233]. - -Of all the great works executed by this King, the most important for -several reasons was the Temple of Jerusalem. In the eighteenth year of -his reign he convoked a national assembly, and set before them the -necessity of rebuilding it, giving as his chief reason that, at the time -of its restoration by Zerubbabel, it had not been made of the proper -dimensions or on the right plan. No doubt a house, raised five centuries -before, by a poor colony, with funds supplied by the King of Persia, -must have had a paltry appearance, contrasted with the magnificent -buildings erected by Herod in the highest style of Grecian art. The Jews -hesitated to consent to his scheme, fearing that after he had -demolished the old Temple, he might be unable or unwilling to finish the -new. He reassured them by promising not to begin to pull it down, until -he had collected all the materials required for so great an undertaking. -He kept his word; two years were spent in preparation[234]; the -sanctuary itself was completed in eighteen months, and the courts and -their cloisters in eight years; but the works in the outer buildings -were carried on for a much longer time[235]. This wonderful pile rose -upon the summit of Moriah, now enlarged by the labours of many -centuries, and surrounded by solid walls and deep valleys, more like an -impregnable fortress than a house of prayer; therefore the Apostles, -beholding with wonder the huge blocks of stone, bound with clamps of -lead and iron into a mass as firm as the rock itself, said one day to -our Saviour, "Master, see what manner of stones and what buildings are -here!" The truth of His reply may still be seen at the place -itself[236]. - -I must now describe the ground-plan of the Temple sufficiently to enable -my readers to understand my investigations; referring those who are -desirous of entering more minutely into the subject, to the two accounts -of Josephus[237], and the description of Munk, to which I am greatly -indebted[238]. The area, enclosed by the outer wall, (called in the -Mischna 'the Temple Hill,') was a square of 500 cubits, or, according to -Josephus[239], of one stadium. This was divided into a series of -platforms, rising one above the other, and the Sanctuary was situated -rather nearer to the north-west corner, on the highest ground. This -arrangement produced a magnificent effect, and rendered the building -visible from every part of the city[240]. In the outer wall were several -gates; five, according to the Mischna[241], two on the south, and one on -each of the other sides; but in Josephus[242] it is stated that there -were four on the west alone, the numbers on the other sides not being -mentioned. Cloisters were built round the wall on the inside, those on -the east, north, and west were double, being supported by three rows of -columns, and thirty cubits wide; that on the south, called the 'Royal -Cloister,' was triple, and supported by four rows of columns[243]. The -Temple-market was held in this court; for all, even foreigners, were -allowed to enter it; hence it has been called by modern authors the -'Court of the Gentiles[244].' It was bounded on the inside by a stone -balustrade, in which columns were placed at certain intervals, bearing -inscriptions forbidding the Gentiles to pass them. In this fence, -according to the Mischna, were thirteen gateways from which fourteen -steps (each half a cubit in height and breadth) led up to a platform -ten cubits wide, called by the Mischna, _Hel_ (before the wall), above -which rose the wall enclosing the sacred precincts. This was 25 cubits -high, and had nine gates, four to the north, four to the south, and one -to the east; these were approached by five steps; consequently the -enclosure was higher than the _Hel_. It was divided into two courts, one -on the east, another on the west. The eastern gate led into a court, 135 -cubits square, devoted to the women, and called after them _Azarath -naschim_ (court of the women). This was divided from the western court -by a wall, in the middle of which, opposite to the entrance into the -women's court, was 'Nicanor's Gate[245],' approached by five steps -circular in form; the western court was therefore raised above the -eastern. It surrounded the Sanctuary, and was 135 cubits from north to -south, and 187 from east to west. The wall on the inside was surrounded -by columns; and on the north, east and south were a number of chambers, -devoted to various purposes, among which was the Hall of the Sanhedrim, -_Lischcath Hagazith_. This court was divided by a balustrade, 11 cubits -from the east end, in the middle of which were three flights of -steps[246], from which the Priests blessed the people. The part devoted -to the men (135 cubits from north to south, and 11 from east to west) -was called the 'Court of the Israelites,' _Azarath Yisrael_: the other, -the 'Court of the Priests,' _Azarath Cohanim_. - -The Temple itself was 100 cubits in length, and as many in height; its -east front was formed by a vestibule, 100 cubits wide, measuring from -east to west 11 cubits, according to the Mischna, and 20 according to -Josephus. The rest of the building was 60 cubits wide (according to the -Mischna 70), therefore the vestibule projected 20 (or 15) cubits on each -side; twelve steps led up to the open door of the vestibule, which was -25 cubits wide. The _Hechal_, or Holy Place, was 20 cubits wide and 43 -long, and was divided from the Holy of Holies (20 cubits square) by a -curtain. The sacred things were arranged as in Solomon's Temple. The -bronze laver stood in the Priests' court, south-east of the Sanctuary; a -certain Ben Katin made twelve outlets for water in it, so that the same -number of Priests could purify themselves at the same time; he also -contrived a machine to bring the water into it from a well[247]. In the -middle of the court opposite the entrance of the Temple, north-east of -the laver, was the altar of burnt-offerings, made of unhewn stones, as -ordered by the law of Moses[248]. According to Josephus it was 50 cubits -square and 15 high, terminated at each corner by a kind of horn, and -approached by a gentle slope on the south side. The Rabbins say that it -rose in steps, the base being 32 cubits square[249], and that at the -south-east corner was a conduit, draining off the blood into the torrent -Kidron. North of the altar were marble tables to receive the flesh of -the victims[250]. In the Holy Place, the table of shewbread stood on the -north, the seven-branched candlestick on the south, and between them the -altar of incense; all made of gold. The Holy of Holies was empty, since -there was no ark in the second Temple, as it was lost when the first was -destroyed. According to a tradition, it had been hidden for security by -the prophet Jeremiah in a cave on Mount Nebo, which could not afterwards -be found[251]. A stone, about 2 inches high, called by the Rabbins -_Schethiyya_ (foundation), occupied its place, on which the High Priest -placed the censer on the day of Atonement[252]. - -Herod did not restrict his liberality to the Temple alone, but executed -some other great works in the same part of the city. He extended the -sacred enclosure on the north[253], strengthened its fortifications, -restored the ancient tower Baris[254], built by the Asmonean princes at -the north-west corner of the Temple, and called it Antonia, after his -patron, Marcus Antonius. As altered by him it was a square[255], half a -stadium each way; so that the whole perimeter of it and the Temple -together was six stadia. The outer wall enclosed a palace and four -towers, one at each angle; three of them 50 cubits high, and the fourth, -at the south-east corner, nearest the Temple, 70; from its summit the -Roman sentinel could see what was going on in the several courts[256]. -The fortress was joined by a subterranean passage to a tower near the -east gate of the Temple, so that in case of a popular tumult the king -could easily escape into the Antonia[257]. At the present day, a plot of -levelled ground, a rocky knoll on the north of the _Haram-es-Sherif_, -and a few shapeless fragments of masonry, are all that remain of the -splendid buildings of Herod. - -All the buildings connected with Herod's Temple were finished at the -time of our Saviour's ministry[258]. He frequently taught in its courts, -and twice expelled those who profaned them with merchandise. He -prophesied the destruction of the place; and in its citadel His -sufferings commenced; for the Praetorium of Pilate was in the tower -Antonia, which was the residence of the Roman Governor and his -garrison[259]. There the sentence was proclaimed to the infuriated -people, who called down on their own heads the curse of the innocent -blood; in a few years so terribly avenged. - -The description of Josephus, who was an eye-witness of the scene, has -been followed by all who have written on the siege and fall of -Jerusalem; it bears every mark of truth; and I shall give a brief sketch -of the part relating to the Temple and its environs, in order that the -account of my researches on the spot may be more intelligible to the -reader. On the first day of the month Thammuz (June-July) the Romans -assaulted the tower Antonia[260] and made a breach in the wall; but were -surprised to find that a second had been built up behind it. This was -carried on the fifth of the same month, and the Jews were driven within -the walls of the Temple courts. The greater part of the fortress was -razed during the next seven days, and the assailants erected mounds for -their engines on the space thus cleared, and battered the walls of the -Temple. Meanwhile the Jews burnt the north-west cloister, fearing that -it would open a communication with the main building for the Romans, who -themselves burnt the north cloister on the twenty-fourth day. This was -in no way opposed by the Jews, who considered that their position was -improved by the destruction of the cloister, and on the twenty-seventh, -by a feigned retreat, they decoyed a number of the Romans on to the roof -of the west cloister, and then fired a quantity of combustible material, -which had been previously heaped up below; so that numbers of their -enemies perished in the flames. The Romans having battered the west wall -of the inner inclosure during six days, and tried in vain to undermine -the north gate, were ordered to carry the cloisters by escalade. On the -eighth day of the month _Ab_ (July-August) they mounted the ladders -without opposition, but when they had arrived on the roof, they were -fiercely assailed by the Jews, and driven back with the loss of some -standards. Titus, seeing that the attempt had failed, set the gates on -fire; these were quickly destroyed, and the flames spread to the -cloisters in both directions. The fire continued till the next day, when -Titus, wishing to open a passage to the Temple for his troops, and to -save the building itself, if possible, ordered it to be extinguished. -During this day the Jews remained quiet; but on the morrow they renewed -the attack, determined either to drive the Romans from the Sanctuary, or -to perish beneath its ruins. By a sortie from the east gate they forced -back the enemy; but Titus, seeing from the Antonia the retreat of his -soldiers, went to their aid, and at last, about the fifth hour, the Jews -were again driven within the walls. He determined to wait and collect -his forces before making the assault; but this was a fatal day, being -the anniversary of the destruction of Solomon's Temple by the -Babylonians, six centuries and a half before[261]. The Jews made another -sortie upon the Romans, who were occupied in extinguishing the flames in -the inner inclosure, and were forced back as far as the buildings in the -neighbourhood of the House itself; these were set on fire by a Roman -soldier without orders, and the flames quickly spread to all the -chambers. Titus, in vain, commanded his troops to extinguish them; his -voice was drowned in the tumult; the Jews, with loud shrieks, fought -furiously in defence of the last bulwark of their nationality; but it -was now too late; the sacred building was in a blaze, and its obstinate -and heroic defenders perished beneath the ruins. After the Temple had -fallen, Titus tried to induce John and Simon, who had retreated into the -Upper city, to submit, and a parley was held at the bridge by the -Xystus[262]. These proud and blood-thirsty tyrants would not hearken to -him; the siege was carried on, and before long the whole upper city was -in his power. He ordered the Temple and the rest of Jerusalem to be -levelled with the ground, leaving only some of the western -fortifications to mark its former magnificence[263]. Thus ended the -political existence of the Jewish race. - -The Christians came back from Pella to Jerusalem soon after its -destruction, and some of the Jews returned there to mourn over its -sacred ashes; so that the place was not wholly deserted even in the -darkest days of Trajan's persecution. Therefore tradition, as well as -the heaps of ruins, pointed out the site of the Sanctuary to Hadrian, -when, in order to humiliate the Jews and extinguish every hope of its -restoration, he built thereupon a temple to Jupiter Capitolinus. - -When the idol temples were destroyed by Constantine the Great A.D. 332, -this too was demolished; but he took no care of Moriah, and allowed two -statues of Hadrian to remain there; neither did he attempt to clear it -of ruins, nor prevent its becoming a receptacle for rubbish; as if he -wished every trace of the departed glory of the nation to disappear. -However, the wretched descendants of David visited the place in -solitude, to anoint with oil and bedew with tears the 'perforated -stone,' which they considered a relic of their Sanctuary[264]. - -The accession of Julian the Apostate renewed the hopes of the Jews. -Wishing to prove the words of Scripture[265] false, he determined to -rebuild the Temple; and supplied the necessary funds, giving the -business in charge to Alypius of Antioch, Governor of Great Britain. The -Jews came in crowds to take part in the work, but their attempts to lay -the foundations were frustrated by flames, which issued from the -excavations with such peals of thunder, that the workmen fled -affrighted, mistaking in their ignorance a natural phenomenon for a -miracle[266]. - -The Emperor Justinian was the first to begin to clear away some of the -ruins from Moriah, A.D. 527. He endeavoured to identify the places -mentioned in the Gospels, and ordered a basilica to be erected on the -south side dedicated to the Presentation of the Virgin, not far from the -site of the Temple[267]. Some buildings were also constructed on the -north side, and perhaps on the east, as I will presently shew. - -The Mohammedans, commanded by Khaled and Abu Obeida, besieged the Holy -City, A.D. 636. The Patriarch Sophronius capitulated to Omar himself, -and the new master of the place converted the basilica of Justinian into -a mosque (_Aksa_); purified the sacred rock (_Sakharah_), the ancient -threshing-floor of Araunah[268], and ordered a mosque to be built over -it, which was commenced A.D. 643. William of Tyre reports that in his -time Arabic inscriptions existed in the building, mentioning the date of -the foundation, the founder's name, and the cost of the work[269]. -However, from the account of Said-Ebn-Batrik, it appears that the mosque -was afterwards enlarged by Abd-el-Malek-Ibn-Meruan, fifth Khalif of the -race of the Ommiades, who ascended the throne the 65th year of the Hejra -(A.D. 684), and died in the 86th (A.D. 705)[270]. His eldest son, Valid -or Elulid, embellished and enlarged the mosque, enriching it with a dome -of gilded copper, which he took from the church of Baalbek and placed -over the _Sakharah_[271]. The completion of the building must therefore -be attributed to him; although it was from time to time improved by the -Khalifs his successors, being considered second only in sanctity to -Mecca and Medina; so that when, during the Khalifat of Al-Moktadar (Hej. -229 = A.D. 950), the pilgrimages to the former place were interrupted by -the invasions of the Karmali, the _Kubbet-es-Sakharah_ took the place of -the _Kaaba_[272]. It is evident that the present mosque is not in every -respect identical with that built by Omar, from the words of Adamnanus -(an author of the eighth century) in a book on the Holy Places, compiled -from the accounts of Arculf, who had passed nine months at Jerusalem. He -says (speaking of the mosque) "but on that celebrated spot where once -the magnificent Temple stood, near the wall on the east side, the -Saracens have now meanly built with uprights and great beams, a -quadrangular house of prayer over some ruined remains, which they -frequent; it is large enough to contain three thousand men at -once[273]." William of Tyre however asserts that on the building seen by -him (which was different from the one described by Adamnanus), the name -of Omar its founder was inscribed. One of the existing Arabic -inscriptions seems, at first sight, to cause some difficulty; it runs as -follows: "May God render illustrious the great king, son of Meruan, who -enlarged this majestic temple, and grant him mercy." 65th year of the -Hejra (A.D. 684, the first of the reign of Abd-el-Malek[274]). This at -first sight appears to contradict the assertion made above, that Elulid, -son and successor of Abd-el-Malek, was the Khalif who added to the -splendour of the mosque, but it is very likely that if he completed the -work of restoration, he would inscribe not only the name of the first -founder Omar, but also that of his father. In other respects William of -Tyre gives no detailed information, in speaking of the mosque of Omar; -only alluding to it in general terms[275]. During my frequent visits to -the _Haram_, I often thought of copying all the inscriptions, but was -always pressed for time, and afraid that each visit might be the last; -therefore, as the examination of the subterranean vaults was by far the -most important matter, I thought it better not to turn aside to a work, -which others may easily execute by degrees. - -It is evident that the mosque remained in the hands of the Mohammedans -from the commencement of Omar's building, A.D. 643, to the arrival of -the Crusaders, A.D. 1099. These soldiers of Christ, forgetful alike -of charity and mercy, slaughtered numbers of the followers of Islam -in the building[276]: they also converted the mosque _el-Aksa_ -into a dwelling-house, and after altering the interior of the -_Kubbet-es-Sakharah_, consecrated it as a Christian church, on the -third day after Easter, A.D. 1143[277], under the name of Templum -Domini[278]; because the first Temple to the honour of God had been -erected by Solomon on that spot. Saladin, the champion of toleration, -magnanimity, and generosity[279], restored the worship of Islam in the -two mosques, A.D. 1187[280]; and from his time the _Haram-es-Sherif_ -has remained in the hands of the Mohammedans as one of their holy -places. - -Selim I., Sultan of Constantinople, who conquered Syria and Palestine, -A.D. 1517, restored and improved the two mosques; doubtless the internal -and external mosaic decorations, with the various arabesque ornaments -still existing, are due to his liberality, and that of his successor, -Solyman I., with his favourite Sultana Rossellane; who, according to the -works of authors preserved in the Mohammedan archives, spent large sums -of money in adorning the whole of the _Haram_, and in erecting there -schools and other philanthropic establishments. - -From the above narrative I draw the following conclusions: that history -and an unbroken chain of events prove that the whole _Haram-es-Sherif_ -is the ancient Mount Moriah; that the present mosque of Omar stands upon -the ancient threshing-floor of Araunah; that the levelled rock on the -north-west, and that rising at the barrack mark the position of the -tower Antonia, and that the mosque _el-Aksa_ is the original basilica of -Justinian. - -Let us now proceed to a detailed examination of the whole area, within -and without, pausing at each object, which, either from its antiquity or -other causes, seems to merit special attention. The barrack, which, -according to ancient tradition, stands on the site of the Praetorium, -touches the western part of the north side of the wall enclosing -Moriah[281]; east of the barrack are buildings of the period of the -Crusades, or not much later; and near the north-east angle of the wall -the Pool of Bethesda[282]. Before proceeding to examine these places, we -must notice some objects in their immediate neighbourhood, which are -worthy of the most careful attention. - -The Society of the Daughters of Sion bought (November, 1857) a plot of -land a few yards to the north-west of the barrack[283], on which stands -the north pier of the arch of the 'Ecce Homo[284];' and requested me to -survey it. In December, after removing with considerable difficulty the -accumulated rubbish of centuries, I came upon a small arch, close to the -larger one, which from its style, masonry, and materials, evidently was -part of the same building. I at once tried to examine the south side, -belonging to the Kusbeck dervishes, but as in this place excavations -were impossible, I was obliged to restrict myself to what appeared above -ground; and found, in the line of the large arch, a fragment of an -ancient wall, which from its form and position seemed to have belonged -to a pier supporting an arch corresponding to the one I had discovered. -Both the arches are semicircular, with a single archivolt composed of a -narrow fillet, a wide ogee moulding, and a band of the same breadth, -supported by a cornice, formed by two fillets, separated by an ogee -moulding. In the west face of the north pier is a semicircular recessed -niche, above a projecting cornice of the same width and pattern as the -one just described. Early in the year 1860 I took charge of the already -commenced buildings of the new convent of the Daughters of Sion, which -abut upon the arch mentioned above; and consequently had an opportunity -of examining the foundations of the piers, and convincing myself that -both their materials and masonry are of the Roman period; because the -blocks of stone, being neither rusticated nor clamped with iron or lead, -are not earlier than the time of Hadrian, and are not sufficiently -finished for so late an age as that of Constantine or Justinian. Some -think that the large arch was built before the capture of Jerusalem by -Titus; but how in that case could it have escaped the general -destruction of the city, and especially of the adjoining tower Antonia, -of which it was actually a part, in the opinion of those who believe -that from it our Lord was shewn to the people? But would the Romans, who -razed the tower and reduced the Temple and whole city to ruins, have -spared this insignificant building; or would the fire have left its -architectural features uninjured? The conformation of the ground itself -shews us that the arch could not have been standing at that time; -because, in its present position, there was then a valley or ditch, -separating Moriah from Bezetha. I found the rock, supporting the piers, -18 feet below the surface (as I have before stated), and to the north -and south are vaulted cisterns excavated in it, in the natural slopes of -Bezetha on one side and Moriah on the other. It is therefore highly -improbable that an arch would have been built in such a position with -reference to the fortress. - -My predecessor had laid the foundations of the east wall of the convent, -but being ill acquainted with the nature of the ground at Jerusalem, he -discovered too late that they rested, especially on the north-east, on -unsolid ground, namely, on the vaulted roof of a subterranean building, -and as the walls rose they began to crack. Some of the masons were just -aware of the existence of the vault when I came; but no one had entered, -or measured it, or examined its whole length, so that I was the first to -do this and determine its age. In order to build a buttress at the -north-east corner, and at the same time to lay new foundations in a -small plot of land on the north, I was obliged to dig a hole, 18 feet -deep, below the level of the street, which rises towards Bezetha: and on -the 3rd of June came upon a layer of large slabs, each 4 or 5 feet long, -3 or 4 wide, and 9 or 10 inches thick. On removing two of these I found -a square hole, through which I entered, or rather fell, into the vault I -was looking for, but the intense heat and foul air compelled me to beat -a hasty retreat, and have the aperture enlarged to permit the air to -circulate more freely. Meanwhile I continued excavating a little to the -north, and met with the wall bounding the vault on that side, and found, -4-1/2 feet below its top, (measured from the outer surface,) the -original entrance; by which I obtained easy access for myself and -afterwards for many others. - -The end of the east side of this gallery is just at the south-east angle -of the building on the north, separated from the body of the convent by -a small level street; and it terminates at the north-west angle of the -_Haram-es-Sherif_; the floor throughout the whole length slopes slightly -and is formed in the rock: though the place was partly filled with earth -at the north end, and with filthy stinking mud at the south, I -thoroughly examined it and made a plan and elevation. At the entrance a -stone staircase, with steps about 2-1/2 feet wide, afforded an easy -descent; but unfortunately I was obliged to mutilate this, in order to -construct a pier to sustain the weight of the north-east corner of the -building above. The side walls are founded on the rock, which appears -above the level of the floor, at a distance of 69 feet from the -entrance, and gradually rises in them up to the southern extremity. They -are built of squared blocks, generally 3-1/2 feet long, and from above 2 -to 3 high, perfectly fitted together. The semicircular vaulting is -admirable, being formed of oblong stones, 2-1/2 feet long, and 8 inches -high. Its exact regularity is its most striking feature. - -I consider that this gallery was remodelled during the Roman period, -because some holes in it to admit the water are no part of the original -design. In the east wall is a semicircular arched door, built up, whose -width and height shew that it was formerly the entrance of a passage. -Along the side walls are semicircular headed apertures, which, together -with the two openings of the same shape, opposite one to another, near -the south end, are also no part of the original design. These two are -the beginnings of conduits, one of which ran eastward down to the Pool -of Bethesda; the other westward, into the Tyropoeon valley. The -accumulated water and filth did not allow me to make a close -examination of these, but, as far as I could see at the openings, the -masonry and shape of the stones led me to think that they formed part of -a Roman restoration. A short distance from these the gallery is closed -by a wall, entirely of Arab work; but I made a temporary opening in it, -and was able to continue my examination as far as the _Haram-es-Sherif_; -the ground of which is about 8 feet above the top of the vault. The -quantity of water, earth, and filth, prevented my approaching the rock -at the end, and ascertaining the means of communication with the surface -at the _Haram_, but as I saw that the south-east corner was built up, I -have no doubt there had been access at that point. It immediately -occurred to me that the vault had originally been a passage between -Bezetha and Moriah, and was the 'Strato's Tower,' where Antigonus, -younger brother of Aristobulus, (the sons of John Hyrcanus,) was -murdered by the treacherous devices of the Queen Alexandra[285]. - -After completing the examination of the interior I applied myself to the -exterior, and found that the side walls rose one foot above the top of -the vault; the space thus made being filled with strong masonry, so as -to form a level surface of the same size as the gallery; which was -covered over along the whole length by large slabs, of the size -mentioned above; these, being firmly cemented together, bound into one -mass the two side walls and the vaulting. - -At the same time, during the progress of the excavation another -interesting discovery was made, namely, the arched opening of a sewer, -3-1/2 feet wide and 4 feet high, by the side of the entrance to the -gallery on the east. It was choked up with dirt, but appeared to come -from the north, and ran along the east side of the vault of the gallery -as far as the middle of the Via Dolorosa, where it turned to the east. -Afterwards upon making further examinations I discovered that it bent -again towards the south, opposite to S. Ann's church, and came out on -the north side of the Pool of Bethesda. I followed it down for 112 feet -from the entrance, and found that after 22 feet the vaulting gave place -to a covering of large slabs. The floor rested upon made ground, and was -also formed of large slabs, strongly cemented together. I was unable to -continue my expedition by reason of the filth it contained, in which I -had a disgusting bath through a fall, caused by a sudden change of level -in the downward course of the sewer: so to make sure of its direction, -by the permission of the Pasha, I excavated in the middle of the Via -Dolorosa, opposite to the projecting north-east angle of the barrack, -and over against the tower commonly called the Antonia; and so verified -what I have already stated, and ascertained with greater certainty that -it rested upon made ground; another proof of the existence of a valley -in this part of the city. The sewer was made centuries after the first -construction of the gallery. - -I have however not yet exhausted the objects of interest afforded by the -property of the convent of the Daughters of Sion. On continuing the -excavation to the north in order to lay new foundations, at a depth of -36 feet below the street, water was met with in abundance. At first I -supposed it had filtered through from some cistern, but as it did not -increase or diminish, I had the excavation deepened and enlarged, and -then discovered, to the north of the water, a perpendicular face of hewn -rock; and on digging deeper a small conduit cut in it, through which the -water ran from north to south. I was anxious to follow it in these -directions, but was prevented by the depth of the soil, the houses in -the neighbourhood, and above all by the customs of the country, and so -was obliged to restrict my researches to that spot, and even there the -owner did not allow me to do much, fearing to attract the attention of -the Mohammedans. I ascertained however that this water did not enter the -gallery, because after drawing off all that was found there, no more -appeared beyond what drained from the street after rain, while the -stream flowed continuously southward, yielding a constant supply for -building purposes. During the first three days its water was muddy and -brackish, but afterwards it gradually became clearer, but always had a -disagreeable taste and contained the same ingredients as that at the -springs of the _Hammam-es-Shefa_ and at the fountain of the Virgin in -the Kidron valley. From the day of its discovery (June 12, 1860), to the -end of January, 1861, it yielded a daily supply of from 200 to 250 -gallons without any diminution, and was not affected by the fall of rain -or snow. At this time I resigned the charge of the works to a -master-mason, as all the difficulties had been overcome, but I am told -that the water continued to flow, and has done so abundantly up to the -present date (April, 1863). From several investigations which I will -mention in the chapter on the waters, I infer that this stream enters -the well of the _Hammam-es-Shefa_[286]. - -My plan and sections shew all the ancient cisterns, both excavated and -built, which occur in this small compass, and some remains of masonry -either of the age of the Crusades or of Arab work. This spot is an -excellent example of the great and frequent changes that the ground of -Jerusalem has undergone, and shews the difficulty that all have to -encounter, who attempt to form an opinion without taking them into -account. - -Let us now examine the north side of the _Haram_. I have already -mentioned the depth of the foundations of the north walls of the -barrack[287]; but on the south the masonry rests upon the bare rock, -which here rises 35 feet above the level of the _Haram-es-Sherif_ as is -shewn in the drawing[288]; its north face being 55 feet above the bottom -of the valley. Hence I cannot admit the common tradition that the -barrack stands on the site of the Antonia, but consider that the rock -above named is the true position of the _north_ side of the ancient -tower. This opinion, I think, is in accordance with all that Josephus -says of its height and situation, divided from Bezetha by a valley and -ditches[289]. If its southern side had coincided with that of the -barrack (which the height of the rock mentioned above entitles us to -assume), I cannot understand why it was built in so bad a position, -where it would be completely commanded by Bezetha, and from which it -could not have been separated by any work of defence. Besides, where are -we then to place the pool Struthium[290]? We must remember that the -shape of the Antonia was a square, each side being half a stadium; it -must therefore have extended to the north right across the valley. Now -if it had stood in this position, Titus would not have been obliged to -batter its walls with engines, and to throw up banks to support them and -to enable his troops to make the assault; because he could have poured -upon it such a storm of stones and combustibles from the summit of -Bezetha, that the garrison would have been obliged to evacuate so -untenable a post. Moreover, Josephus states, that the perimeter of the -Temple and the Antonia together was 6 stadia[291]. Now according to -every estimate of this measure, this condition cannot be satisfied -unless the latter is placed _within_ the north-west angle of the -_Haram_, as the description in Josephus seems to require[292]. We are -also told that it was razed by Titus; the place which I assign still -bears traces of this; and as a still stronger proof, there remains, in -the middle of the rock that has been thus levelled, a fragment of the -ancient Herodian wall; which I believe to have formed the south-east -corner of the inner buildings of the tower, i.e. of the Praetorium. On -the west is the house belonging to the Pasha, governor of Jerusalem, and -there I have seen, by means of excavations, the rock in the foundations -and, resting against it, the earth which conceals the valley filled up -by the Asmoneans. Lastly, there is a vault, which starts from the -position I assign to the Antonia and goes towards the present Golden -Gate. This I discovered by descending into two cisterns on the north of -the _Haram_, and by the fall of the west portion of an old wall, near -the north-west corner of the above gate, which, being washed away by the -rain, exposed the other end. I was not able to pass along its whole -extent, as it was nearly filled up by rubbish, but by examining the two -extremities at these places, I convinced myself that they belonged to a -continuous building. It is partly excavated in the rock, which however -sinks on approaching the east. The masonry of the side walls and -vaulting resembles that in the gallery below the convent of the -Daughters of Sion. The floor is also paved throughout the whole length, -as far as I saw. Josephus[293] mentions that a subterranean -communication existed between the Antonia and the east gate of the -Temple; consequently for this and the other preceding reasons I firmly -believe that I have placed the tower in the true position. I believe -then that the barrack stands in the valley; that is, upon the ancient -position of the Pool Struthium, which has been filled up, by the -materials cast into it by order of Titus, in making the bank to support -the Roman battering train, and by the ruins of the Antonia itself. Had -the tower occupied this position, the only side properly defended would -have been that towards the Temple, by the high face of rock, which in -that case ought to shew traces of having been hewn away towards the -north. What purpose could my 'Strato's tower' have then served, if it -had passed through the basement of the Antonia? It would have been -useless as a communication, because the tower itself would have done as -well, and it is too deep in the ground and too small for a work of -defence. - -The buildings on the east of the barrack, between it and the first -passage leading up to the Temple, may belong either to the age of -Saladin or of Solyman I.; the Arabs attribute them to the latter. They -have been greatly altered within and without, and therefore do not -present any distinctive features. Their foundations rest upon the rock, -which on the south side is one or two feet below the level of the -_Haram_, but on the north from 14 to 18 feet lower down, being at the -bottom of the valley which I have already mentioned. - -On the left of the passage going up to the _Haram_ is a bath now -disused, inside the buildings. During my examination of it I discovered -the eastern conduit, which starts from inside the gallery. Its course -from this place to the pool of Bethesda cannot be followed, as it is -stopped up by rubbish; it is vaulted but not founded upon the rock. - -Facing the little passage mentioned above, on the north, are the remains -of an ancient building[294], commonly called a bastion of the tower -Antonia. It rests upon the rock, and is doubtless of considerable -antiquity, but certainly not Jewish work. The stones composing it are -small and bevelled at the edges, so that the part projecting from the -wall is like a thin slice cut horizontally from a pyramid: they are laid -with mortar, and do not appear to belong to an age remarkable for the -splendour of its work. This place is about a stadium from the north-west -angle of the _Haram_, and therefore, besides being in too low a -situation, cannot have been included in the tower Antonia, if we accept -the dimensions of the fortress given us by Josephus. - -The north side is terminated on the east by the Pool of Bethesda[295]. -This, I believe, was made by Herod the Great, at the same time as the -Antonia, from the valley or ditch defending the north side of the -Temple. It has obviously undergone great alterations and greater -injuries. Porticoes were built upon its south wall by Solyman I.; on -the others are Arab houses in the meanest style, most of which are now -in ruins. It is nearly filled with soil and rubbish, which are covered -with creepers and shrubs. By this time it would probably have been quite -full, if I had not preserved it[296]. At its west end are two arches, -almost choked up with earth, and overgrown by vegetation. I forced my -way into them, and saw two more arches, built of small stones, and -obviously of Arab work; the northern of these was the termination of the -eastern conduit from the great gallery. With much difficulty I traversed -it for a distance of 72 feet, and found it vaulted in the same way as -the one I have described below the bath. Tradition asserts this place to -be the Pool of Bethesda, at which our Saviour healed a paralytic[297]. I -shall notice it again, in describing the various works connected with -the supply of water to the city. - -In both faces of the north-east angle of the _Haram_ wall are several -courses of ancient stones, rusticated, which prove that in former times -this was also the corner of the sacred enclosure. - -After passing the Gate of S. Mary and leaving on the left the ruins of a -small Saracenic building of the age of Saladin, the Mohammedan cemetery -is reached, which occupies almost the whole of the high narrow plateau -running parallel to the east wall of the _Haram_, above the Kidron -valley. I consider the foundation of the whole line of wall, from the -north-east to the south-east corner, to be the work of Solomon; being -led to this conclusion by a series of observations, carried on when -graves were dug against the wall, and by excavations which I made with -the help of the keepers of the cemetery, wherever I could do it without -exciting suspicion and arousing the fanaticism of the Mohammedans. - -Near the south-east corner is a stone, which appears to have been the -impost of an arch; as there are no tombs in this part, I made an -excavation opposite to it, at a distance of 12 feet, and, after digging -down for 14 feet, came upon the great foundation stones. By opening -another hole along the same line, nearer to the corner, I found them -again at a depth of 12 feet; the difference being caused by the slope of -the ground. By this means I convinced myself that the foundations of the -wall were laid far down in the valley (as stated by Josephus), and that -they rose up to the place, where it still appears above the surface of -the ground, in a series of steps about 2 feet wide. The foundation -(strictly speaking) is made of large blocks, roughly squared, and not -rusticated, fastened together by a tenon left projecting from the face -of one stone, fitting into a corresponding mortise in the next: there is -not a trace of iron or lead or mortar; but where the wall rises above -ground its face is vertical, the blocks are more carefully squared, and -rustic work is used, with wide and deep grooves; as may be seen at many -places in the lower part of the present wall[298]. The force of the -flames, the vandalism of man, and the course of time, have produced no -effect upon these massive buildings; which have been saved from the fate -of those on Sion and Ophel, by the ruins heaped about them, and still -more by the reverence paid by the Mohammedans to the ground on which -they stand. - -These valuable remains enable us to compare their masonry with the -Herodian work, seen more especially in the projecting wall at the -north-east angle[299], and at the south-east extremity. The stones in -these two places are of large size[300] and rusticated; only the grooves -here are small, and the whole surface of the block is well smoothed; -they also are perfectly fitted together without mortar, but clamps of -iron or soldering plugs of lead are used; as I was able to ascertain -when a small part was repaired: each course stands a little more than a -tenth of an inch farther back than the one below it. The general -appearance of the work manifests a progress in art and a delicacy of -execution, which could not have been produced in the time of Solomon, -even with Phoenician aid. In all the countries formerly occupied by -this people there are not any examples of a wall in this style, while -those resembling the architecture of Solomon are far from uncommon. We -might reasonably suppose that Herod would increase the strength of the -northern corner, as an outwork to the Antonia on the east; while the -south-east corner might have been destroyed by the Chaldeans, being -weaker than the rest owing to the existence of the great vaulted cistern -within the _Haram_; and, as Nehemiah was no doubt unable to repair it in -a manner befitting its position, Herod would rebuild it in his -restoration of the above-named cistern, whose east and south sides are -not formed by the rock, but by the outer wall of the Temple enclosure, -and are made of great strength to withstand the pressure of the water. - -I have already explained by what marks I distinguish the walls which I -attribute to Nehemiah, the Romans, and the Arabs[301]; examples of each -can be readily found in the eastern wall of the _Haram_. From the side -of a small sepulchral building (containing the ashes of Yacub Pasha and -his wife) to beyond the Golden Gate the masonry shews many signs of Arab -restorations. Here may be seen columns of verd antique, porphyry and -valuable marbles, built longwise into the thickness of the wall. -Doubtless these formerly decorated some Christian edifices, and were -placed in their present position when the city walls were repaired by -Sultan Solyman. - -The principal object that attracts attention on the east side is the -Golden Gate[302], which projects slightly from the line of the wall. The -two outer doorways, as I have already said, are built up[303]; but for -the sake of description we will for a moment imagine them opened. From -the outside we see two round-headed arches each supported by two -pilasters, built of stones of no great size, which are laid in mortar, -without rustic work, and form a perfectly smooth face, in strong -contrast with the genuine ancient blocks in the lower parts of the walls -on each side, and at each corner. The two arches and their capitals are -richly carved with leaves and other ornaments. The whole building is -cased, except at the base, with Saracenic work of the date of Solyman; -as I infer from the irregular masonry, the smallness of the stones, the -occurrence of a Byzantine capital (out of its proper place) on the top -of the facade, and many other minor ornamental details, bad in taste and -execution, which are characteristic of that age[304]. - -Passing through the entrance, we find the piers and architraves of the -doors composed of immense blocks, six in number, which resemble Jewish -work. Their state of decay shews their antiquity, and they must have -been exposed to the action of fire, being calcined and crumbling; for -otherwise, from their great size and sheltered situation, they ought to -have been in good preservation, like all the rest of the internal -masonry of the gate; which I assign to the age of Justinian. The plan of -the building is an oblong, the length being double the breadth, divided -into two aisles by two large columns of grey veined marble and two -half-columns, which, with the help of small pilasters, projecting -slightly from the lateral walls, sustain the vaulting, composed of very -narrow pointed domes; beneath this a magnificent entablature, carved in -leaf patterns[305], is carried round the walls of the building. The west -facade[306], inside the _Haram_, has a double doorway with round-headed -arches, supported by a central column and two side pilasters. Their form -and ornamentation resemble those on the east front. The outer roof is -also a series of domes, which were built during some repairs about 60 -years since. Not a few authors have attributed the architecture of this -gate to the time of Herod, forgetting that Josephus states that the -Temple and its cloisters were burnt and utterly destroyed by the Roman -troops. How then is it possible that the walls, and still more the -ornamental work, should have survived the fury of the soldiers? If the -east cloister has so entirely disappeared, how is it that the gate, -which stood in the middle of it, has escaped? Those few blocks in the -piers of the door may be of the age of Herod, but not the rest of the -masonry, and we cannot therefore on this evidence assign the whole -building to that period. It is however very probable that they were -found among the ruins of the ancient eastern gate and incorporated in -the present. Nor can we believe that the two large monolithic columns -were brought to Jerusalem by Herod. It is far more likely that they were -sent by Justinian to adorn a spot sacred in Christian tradition as the -place where our Saviour entered Jerusalem, among the shouts of one part -of the populace, to keep that last Passover before he suffered[307]. I -consider therefore that the present Golden Gate stands not only upon the -site of the ancient east gate, but also upon its foundations, for we -find its dimensions given in the Mishna, 'the east gate was 40 cubits -long and 20 wide;' and a strong proof of the truth of this opinion is, -that, on making an excavation near the north door, I discovered at a -depth of 10 feet the foundations, of undoubted Herodian work. At the -same time I saw that there have never been any steps leading up to the -gate, and that a mass of rubbish is heaped against its east front, in -the slopes of which are the graves of the Mohammedan cemetery. - -There is a small doorway closed with masonry a little to the south of -the Golden Gate, and besides this nothing else remains to be noticed on -the east side, except that the whole length of the wall is covered with -creepers, which flourish here luxuriantly and do constant mischief; -breaches are already formed in some places, but the guardians of the -_Haram_ pay no attention to them; though in a few years they will not be -so indifferent to the expense of the repairs, which will then be -absolutely necessary. All the loop-holes were made in the time of -Solyman. - -After the south-east corner has been turned, the whole wall, both in its -foundations and upper part, exhibits the same solid and magnificent -ancient masonry as on the east face. A few yards from the corner is a -doorway with a pointed arch, now walled up, which I consider to have -been made at the time of the Crusades, and possibly then called the Gate -of the Valley of Jehoshaphat. We shall hereafter notice the purpose for -which it was used. A little distance to the west of this, we see three -plain round-headed arches, supported by four pilasters, whose masonry -differs both from the older and newer work in the immediate -neighbourhood. Their general character is Roman, and I believe them to -have been built at the time of Justinian, to communicate with the vaults -within the _Haram_; which I shall presently describe. - -Under the mosque _el-Aksa_ is a gate not only built up, but also partly -buried[308]. The arch is cut in two by the city-wall, which here turns -to the south. Its architectural features both constructive and -decorative resemble those of the Golden Gate; so that I consider it also -the work of Justinian. Under its arch is a grated window; by climbing up -to this, it is possible to look into a vaulted gallery below the mosque. -A stone, bearing the following inscription, is built slantwise into the -wall above and turned upside down. - - TITO AEL. HADRIANO - ANTONINO AVG. PIO - P. P. PONTIF. AVGVR. - D. D. - -No doubt it was picked up with many others in removing the ruins at the -time of Justinian and built in here by the masons, and when the wall was -again repaired in the reign of Solyman, the workmen, less careful and -skilful than the former, placed it in its present position. The -Mohammedans call this archway the Gate of the Prophetess Huldah[309], -for what reason they cannot say, for they also consider it to have been -the grand entrance to the stables of Solomon, and consequently hold it -in great respect. I shall recur to this gate in my account of the -vaults. I made several excavations in front of it, like those at the -south-east corner, and after digging 10 or 12 feet through the rubbish, -came upon the foundations laid in the age of Solomon, but could not -discover anything to prove that a gate had then existed on this spot. - -Starting from the Aksa the city wall goes to the south, and then turns -again to the west down to the Dung Gate. Throughout the whole of this -angle the lower part of the wall is Roman work, the upper Saracenic, of -the time of Solyman. Although this gate is evidently only a few hundred -years old, it is usually pointed out by the guides as that entered by -our Saviour, when he was brought from the garden of Gethsemane to the -house of Caiaphas. Ignorance of architecture and of the plan of the -ancient city has allowed this tradition to exist[310]. Entering, and -forcing our way through a thicket of cactus, we regain the south wall of -the Temple enclosure, whose lower parts date from the reign of Solomon. -An excavation made at the south-west angle gave, first the masonry of -Solomon, secondly that of the Crusaders, and above these that of -Solyman[311]. - -The ruins south of the Aksa belong to the choir of Justinian's basilica, -which was thrown down by an earthquake between the years A.D. 775 and -785. They now await the last stroke of the hand of Time to bring them to -the ground, when they evidently must injure in their fall the south wall -of the mosque; but the Mohammedan fatalists never think of averting this -by timely repairs. - -The whole of the space between the walls of the city and the _Haram_ was -probably, at the time of Herod the Great, covered by the amphitheatre -erected by that king[312]. - -Near the south-west angle is a very remarkable fragment of an arch and -its pier, built into the _Haram_ wall. Nearly all the learned writers -who have noticed it, with the exception of the Rev. G. Williams, have -considered these remains to belong to the age either of Solomon or -Herod; I however venture to differ from them, and attribute it to -Justinian; who, when building the neighbouring basilica, may have -contemplated throwing a bridge over the valley between Moriah and Sion -to facilitate the communication between the two sanctuaries on these -hills. The work may have been left unfinished, because the plan was -either changed or found impracticable. The blocks shew none of the -characteristics of the work of Solomon or Herod, nor have they the same -marked appearance of antiquity; nor does the masonry in any respect -resemble the Jewish; the stones being laid with mortar. I cannot but -think that if either of these kings had executed a work of such -importance, the Bible and Josephus would not have passed it over in -silence. We can scarcely imagine that so vast an arch, 375 feet in span, -could have been built in those times; and if we suppose that the bridge -crossed the valley with a series of arches, then traces of the piers, or -at least of the stones that composed them, ought to be found among the -rubbish below; also there should be some remains of it on the eastern -slope of Sion; where nothing of the kind occurs. On this point I can -speak with confidence, because when the Pasha requested me to inspect -the city sewer, which runs down the valley to the Pool of Siloam, I -availed myself of this fortunate opportunity to widen and deepen the -excavation, and did not find the slightest indication of a bridge. -Josephus[313] states that when Pompeius approached the city with his -forces, the partisans of Aristobulus, on retreating to the Temple, cut -off the bridge. He alludes to it again on other occasions[314], and to -the tower near it, built by Simon to defend himself against John. What -then has become of the ruins of this bridge and of the tower? Though -now, as on Ophel and part of Sion, there may be open fields on the site -of some parts of ancient Jerusalem, numbers of stones, as I have already -described[315], are scattered about; why then does not the same thing -happen in the Tyropoeon valley, where the great accumulation of -rubbish would have buried the fallen blocks and preserved them from the -action of fire? Besides, the rock exposed in the eastern slope of Sion -is rough and rugged, and untouched by the chisel; there is no part of it -that we can suppose to have supported a building. I have also excavated -along by the side of it in the valley below and found nothing. I have -examined the lower parts of the Arab houses, which some have imagined to -be built upon its foundation, but all my investigations have confirmed -me in my opinion that the bridge never stood upon this spot. Had it done -so, why, as we see the pier on the east, do we not see some -corresponding remains on the west; or if not these, the place where the -spring-stones of the arch rested upon the rock? I believe the bridge -mentioned by Josephus was near the present _Mekhemeh_ (the Mohammedan -Court of Justice), which is on the west of the _Haram_, at the bottom of -Temple Street, because at this point the valley is still crossed from -west to east by arches, sustaining the conduit which brings the water -from Etham into the Temple, and the ground south of this, on the -opposite side, formerly occupied by the Xystus, has been levelled. The -height of this bridge or dyke above the street is 38 feet on the south, -and 20 on the north; which, it must be remembered, is not the true -elevation of the work itself; because the ground has been raised on each -side by the accumulation of rubbish in the bottom of the Tyropoeon. -This, in my opinion, joined the Upper city to the Temple-hill in former -times, as it now does. It is surely very improbable that the principal -approach to the Temple from the west should have been placed at one -corner, instead of in the centre of the enclosure; as would have been -the case had the great arch formed part of a bridge while that building -was standing: and when this was broken down, the communication with the -Temple would not have been cut off, as the dyke would still have been a -more direct and convenient road from the city. - -Before arriving at the Jews' wailing place, we come to the Gate -_el-Mogarba_, leading to the mosque of the Mogarabins; a few yards to -the north of which is a little rectangular plot of ground, surrounded by -a low wall: after passing this I entered a dark chamber, in which was a -doorway almost buried. M. Isambert[316] has attempted to identify this -with one of the four western gates mentioned by Josephus[317]; but not -having tested his theory on the spot, he is unaware that the difference -of level between the outside and inside of the _Haram_ renders this -impossible; moreover, the gate has evidently been made at a date long -after the building of the wall. - -The Jews' wailing place is a small open plot; where a piece of Herod's -wall is still seen between the outer wall of the _Mekhemeh_ and that of -a private house (belonging to Abu-Saud): it is called in Arabic _Hai -el-Mogharibeh_ (the wall of the Mogarabins). M. de Saulcy says of it: -"Up to a height of more than 12 metres (about 39 feet) the original -building has remained entire; regular courses of fine stones, perfectly -squared, but with an even border standing out as a kind of framework, -enclosing the joints, rise over each other to within two or three yards -from the top of the wall. A moment's inspection is enough to ascertain, -without any doubt, that the Jewish tradition is positively correct; a -wall like this has never been constructed either by Greeks or Romans. We -have evidently here a sample of original Hebraic architecture[318]. In -the inferior courses the stones are on the average twice as wide as they -are high; now and then, however, some square blocks happen to be laid -between the long ones. The four inferior courses nearest the ground are -formed of square blocks, with the exception of the last but one, which -is composed of blocks three times as long as they are high. As the -courses successively rise above the ground, the dimensions of the blocks -decrease, and, lastly, every course recedes about one fifth of an -English inch behind the surface of the one immediately below it. Beyond -these walls (bounding the space on each side) the ancient construction -extends about 38 feet to the right, and 36 to the left, or in the -direction of the _Mekhemeh_. Again, the primitive wall is crowned -towards the summit by several courses of hewn stones regularly disposed, -but of small dimensions. These upper courses are of comparatively recent -date, and their age cannot be referred to a period anterior to the -Mohammedan conquest. On the face of the ancient wall appear large -notches, which have been made at some undeterminable period, for the -purpose of fixing a pediment over this part of the enclosure; these -notches, hollowed out in the shape of a niche, that is to say, round at -the top with a rectangular basis, are of different dimensions, perhaps -they may have been made at the period of the rebuilding of the Temple by -Herod[319]." From its delicacy of execution I consider this wall -Herodian work; besides, I think it very unlikely that the Chaldeans, -more barbarous than the Romans, would have left anything standing at -Jerusalem: they would have pulled down all that the flames had spared. I -consider the smaller masonry of the upper part to be of the time of the -Crusades or Saracenic. Friday is the day on which the Jews chiefly -assemble here in great numbers, to pray, to recite the Psalms of David, -and bedew with their tears these remains of their former greatness. This -privilege is granted to them on payment of a sum of money to the Effendi -in charge of the _Haram_. This custom dates from a very early period; it -is mentioned by Benjamin of Tudela in the twelfth century[320]. - -The stones in the lower parts of the walls of the _Mekhemeh_ are -remarkable for their rough rustic work in high relief. They are not so -large as those we attribute to the age of Solomon or Herod, but still -appear ancient. I think they may belong to the Asmonean epoch, and have -formed the basement of a tower, defending the Xystus bridge on the side -of the Temple. The masonry in the upper hall of the time of the -Crusaders, where the vaulting is supported by pointed arches springing -from pillars, is evidently much more modern. According to Mohammedan -tradition this is the Judgement Hall of Solomon, converted into an -armoury by the Crusaders: it is certainly not improbable that it may -have been a dependency of the Knights Templar. The large chamber below, -which has undoubtedly been used as a cistern, as is shewn by the very -strong cement in the walls, is now filled with rubbish. In the middle of -the upper hall is a fountain, now and then supplied with the water of -Etham; and on the left of the principal entrance (part of a restoration -by Saladin or Solyman) an ancient sarcophagus, found in the Tombs of the -Kings outside the Damascus Gate: it is a facsimile of that carried to -Paris by M. de Saulcy, and now placed in the Gallery of the Louvre; it -at present serves to hold water[321]. - -Close to the _Mekhemeh_ is the principal entrance into the _Haram_, -which has two doorways, and is ornamented with groups of spiral columns -supporting elegant capitals carved in leaf patterns, the work of -Saladin. Before its west front is a fountain, an elegant specimen of -ornate Saracenic work: its small basin, no longer filled with water, is -an ancient sarcophagus of red Palestine breccia. From this spot up to -the north-west corner the ancient foundations of the _Haram_ wall are -concealed by Arab houses, and can only be seen here and there above the -level of the ground; enough, however, is visible to shew that the old -wall followed the line of the present enclosure from south to north. - -Returning to the Temple Street and going westward along the dyke, which, -with the Rev. G. Williams[322], I consider to be the ancient bridge -between Sion and Moriah, we see, after a few yards, on the right hand a -small facade of Saracenic architecture, adorned with arabesques of -excellent design; whose accurate execution deserves notice. It is a -fragment of an ancient school, established by Saladin, the revenues of -which are now exhausted, so that nothing else remains besides this -building. A little further on we leave this street (called by the -Crusaders the Bridge of S. Giles), by taking the first turning to the -north, and find, after passing the corner, a stone embedded in the lower -part of the wall of the first Arab house on the right hand, bearing an -inscription, which however is of no importance. This street runs along -the top of a vault which I have examined. It was constructed to form an -easy communication with the Tyropoeon, and proves that in former times -there was high ground on this spot. Going on northward we arrive at a -Saracenic fountain, now without water; near it on the south is a passage -leading into the central sewer, which here deviates a little to the east -to regain the middle of the valley, and consequently passes under the -bridge near the above-named school of Saladin. On the north of the -fountain is an ancient Mohammedan bath rapidly falling to ruin, and near -it the great gate of the Bazaar of the _Haram_, at the end of which is -the _Bab el-Katannin_ (Gate of the Cotton Merchants). The entrance to -the Bazaar is a frontispiece of rude rustic work, which I attribute to -the age of the Crusades. The interior is Saracenic, as is shewn by the -architraves of the cells on each side, which were built for merchants' -shops, but now are receptacles for filth. After passing the middle of -the Bazaar, there is a bath on the south side called the _Hammam -es-Shefa_, supplied by a spring rising at a great depth: its waters have -an unpleasant taste; but we will speak more particularly of it -presently. On the north, nearly opposite to the entrance of the bath, a -little street leads to the _Bab el-Kadid_ (Iron Gate) and the Convent of -Blind Dervishes, (a philanthropic establishment of Solyman,) where -singers in the mosque, suffering from this calamity, are still received. - -The first lane on the north of the Bazaar leads directly up to the _Bab -el-Kadid_; along each side are establishments in aid of the poor, but, -as the revenues have been swallowed up, they are going to ruin, like -the schools of Saladin, which are in the next street on the north, -leading up to the _Bab el-Nadhir_ (Inspector's Gate). Here, according to -Mohammedan tradition, the Prophet alighted from his steed Borak[323], on -his visit to the Holy Stone of Jacob. Near this gate, on the south, is a -magnificent building, which from the various kinds of stone employed, -the delicacy of its ornamentation, the regularity of its columns, and -the harmony of all its parts, is an excellent example of Saracenic -taste. It was erected by Solyman, and is said by the Mohammedans to have -been the residence of his Sultana Rossellane. It is now gradually -falling to decay, although a very small sum spent in repairs would make -it last for centuries. - -Before leaving this side I need only remark that the arches, crossing -the street down the Tyropoeon, shew that the houses on the west side -of the valley are also in the precincts of the _Haram_ and consequently -inalienable. Up to the time of Saladin and his successors, these -belonged exclusively to the Jews; who, since then, have been gradually -deprived of them by the law of might; and, in order to conceal the -iniquitous usurpation, they have been thus joined to the enclosure of -the _Haram_. - -Having thus described the outside of the Mohammedan sanctuary, I shall -now conduct my reader within, and introduce him to places all as yet -unknown to him, except one or two, which, from their connection with the -exterior, I have been obliged to mention. In doing this, I shall not -spend time over the minor details, which are explained by the Plan and -its description[324]; but attend solely to the matters of greater -interest, not forgetting the Mohammedan traditions. - -I have already, in describing the exterior, noticed all the important -points on the north side, and therefore only call attention to the -extent of levelled rock, continuous with that which forms a large part -of the south wall of the barrack, and was, in my opinion, the north of -the tower Antonia[325]. A short distance from the barrack is an -octagonal oratory, surmounted by a dome, containing (according to the -Mohammedans), a piece of the sacred rock, which was cut off by the -Christians during the time of the Latin kingdom. I have been inside the -building, and seen a stone; but it is too shapeless to enable me to form -any opinion of the truth of the tradition. I think that the place has a -vault beneath, and that probably the passage already mentioned, which -was constructed by Herod as a communication between the tower Antonia -and the east gate, passes by it. - -Above the pool of Bethesda rises the minaret of _Israel_, erected to -commemorate the Patriarch's sleeping on Moriah; this, and the minaret of -the _Serai_ at the north-west corner, are used for the especial purpose -of calling to prayer the faithful of the rite _Hannefi_: both are -founded on the rock, and near the latter the large Herodian masonry is -still visible: they were built in the time of Omar, according to the -Mohammedan chronicles; which I am disposed to believe, because I have -seen, in the interior of the second, small holes, which may have been -made for the fittings of Christian bells during the Latin kingdom. These -would not be there had the minarets been built by Saladin, by whom -however the second may certainly have been restored. - -A small Arab building abutting on the outer wall is the first thing to -attract attention on the east side. In the middle of the room inside is -a kind of pedestal, covered with rich carpets woven in different -colours. According to the Mohammedans, this is the site of the throne of -Solomon, and the place where the Book of Wisdom was composed, to which, -in consequence, he will return at the Day of Judgement to assist his -father David in judging the Israelites. We can see how highly the -followers of the prophet esteem the place by the number of small tablets -fastened to the window, as tokens of gratitude for some blessing -received. - -To the south of this is the Golden Gate[326]; a small staircase on the -north side conducts us to the top, which is an excellent position for a -general view of the _Haram es-Sherif_, the Valley of Kidron, the Mount -of Olives, and the whole of Jerusalem. Here we see the truth of the -words of Josephus[327], that "the city lay over against the Temple in -the manner of a theatre." The Mohammedans say that on the Last Day the -Prophet _Isa_ (Jesus) will descend from heaven upon this gate to judge -the world, and will commit the Jews to the decision of David and -Solomon, and the followers of Islam to the Prophet. Passing along the -boundary wall to the south we come to a very narrow staircase built -against it, leading up to a window from which the shaft of a column laid -longwise projects for about 5 feet; beneath it is the deep valley of -Kidron. This marks the position of the invisible bridge _es-Sirah_ and -the 'Window of Judgement,' where Mohammed will sit on the Day of -Judgement, and order all to pass the bridge, no wider than the edge of a -sword; over it the faithful will run swiftly and enter Paradise; while -the infidels, in trying to cross, will fall into the abyss of Hell open -wide beneath them. I have seen not a few fanatics come to pray in a -niche very near the window, and then step on to the column; and -afterwards try to obtain the credit of having seen that which is -invisible. In the south-east corner of the enclosure is a ruined mosque, -with 14 arches, in two rows, supported by square pillars. This was -formerly the place of prayer according to the rite _Hanbeli_. The keeper -asserts that, in times long since past, there was a high tower on this -spot; he is indeed not altogether mistaken; for, in the days of Herod, -the cloister with its four rows of columns stood here; high enough to -afford a beautiful view[328]. - -Just on the north of the site of this is a staircase leading down into a -chamber lighted by loopholes in the outer wall of the _Haram_. After -passing the upper doorway we have on the right hand a small aperture, -through which we can look into the great vault, and see some of its many -columns. In the south wall at the end of the chamber the keeper points -out a marble basin in the form of a cradle, as the one which held the -Infant Jesus, when He was brought to the Temple for circumcision; and -shews the places occupied by the Virgin Mary and S. Joseph, and the two -niches where stood the Prophets Zacharias and Ezekiel. The story is -worthless, but the view of the grotto excavated partly in the rock and -of the enormous blocks in the wall is very interesting. - -On quitting this place we observe a large terrace formed above the -subterranean vault. I descended by a large hole close to the south wall -of the _Haram_, and on arriving in the great chamber, saw a forest of -columns supporting the roof, rising among heaps of earth and ruins. I -believe that this immense building was originally constructed by -Solomon, in order to increase the area of the platform of the Temple; -and at the same time to contain water, which was used in such quantities -in the service of the Sanctuary; the height of the vault, measured near -the south-east corner, is 39 feet above the floor of rock; which I found -after digging through a layer of earth. It is lower towards the north, -for the rock rises there, as it does towards the north-west corner, -where I had great difficulty in finding it, from the accumulation of -rubbish. The whole building has evidently undergone restoration at -different periods; as is shewn by its irregular shape and the condition -and different kinds of masonry of the present walls. Of these the east -and south walls (being part of the _Haram_ wall) are Herodian work; at -the south-east corner, by the chamber of the cradle of Christ, which we -have already visited, we see Roman work in the inner wall and in some -masonry on the north, at which point it is evident that the size of the -vault has been diminished; some other small walls in the interior belong -to a much later period, perhaps that of the Crusades. The plinths of the -numerous columns are rusticated in the Herodian style, but their shafts -are Roman. Their length diminishes towards the north owing to the rise -of the rocky floor towards the main mass of the hill on that side; which -however is generally not visible from within, as it is faced with -masonry. The whole vaulting, supported by semicircular arches, is Roman. -I consider therefore that the last restoration was made by order of -Justinian, but cannot allow that the whole building dates from that -time, because it is not likely that his historian, Procopius, would have -omitted to mention so stupendous a work; nor would there have been any -necessity for that Emperor to enlarge this part of the area of Moriah. -From within we plainly see the triple gate and the pointed arch, to -which we drew attention during our circuit of the walls. The former is -of the age of Justinian; but the quantity of earth and rubbish, now -piled against it on the inside, renders it difficult to form an opinion -on the purpose for which it was constructed. I believe that at that -period the vault was not used as a cistern. The pointed arch was, I -think, built in the time of the Latin kingdom, as a postern gate for -sorties, and an entrance into the stables of the Knights Templar; which, -from the small splayed loopholes in the south and east walls, the iron -rings fastened to the masonry, and the small party walls and holes cut -in the ground, I suppose to have been in this building. I was confirmed -in this opinion by observing a door (built-up) on the west side of the -vault which, I think, must have communicated with those under the mosque -_el-Aksa_. The Mohammedan legend, that both these were the stables of -Solomon[329] (as they still call them), probably took its rise from the -use to which they were applied by the Crusaders. On excavating inside, -near the ruined passage, I found three capitals of columns in white -veined marble[330] of an elegant design and good execution. - -Returning to the open air and standing upon the great terrace, we see on -what vast foundations the famous 'Royal Cloister' of Herod was -supported. The mosque _el-Aksa_ is a large pile of buildings abutting on -the south wall of the _Haram_. The principal axis of the edifice runs -north and south, instead of east and west according to the general law -of the Latin Church; consequently some authors have asserted that it was -not built for Christian worship, but originally was a mosque. We will -therefore examine its history. Some think it was the work of -Constantine; but then Eusebius, his panegyrist, does not mention that he -in any way evidenced any regard or care for Moriah. Others attribute it -to Justinian; with these I agree. The idea of erecting this basilica, -and dedicating it to the Virgin, was not conceived at first by the -Emperor, but by Elias, Patriarch of Jerusalem, A.D. 501. As the -Christians of Palestine had not the means of executing so great a work, -they sought the aid of Justinian, through the Abbot Saba; and the -Emperor not only gave the assistance asked, but also took care that the -building should be worthy of the Christian religion: so we are informed -by the monk Cyril of Scythopolis, a Greek historian, living A.D. 555, -who embraced the monastic life under the rule of S. Saba. In the year -531 all difficulties were overcome, and this magnificent edifice -completed. Its grandeur is recorded by Procopius[331], whose account is -briefly as follows. The length of the building was greater than the -breadth, which however was so great that they had difficulty in -procuring rafters for the roof of sufficient length. This was supported -by two rows of columns, one above the other, which were quarried in the -neighbourhood of Jerusalem, rivalling marble in beauty, and veined with -red, resembling in colour the brightness of fire. Two of them, at the -entrance of the Temple, were larger and more beautiful than the rest. He -also mentions the great blocks of stone used in the work, and tells us -by what means they were brought on to the ground. The whole of his -description undoubtedly suits the mosque _el-Aksa_, although its -exterior has been greatly changed; since there are now no traces of -cloisters, atrium, or other buildings mentioned by the same historian. -The two great columns are no longer to be seen; but it is not improbable -that they are concealed within the two central piers of the porch. Those -inside the basilica correspond to the above description, and by secretly -chipping off bits of the plaster, with which all are now coated, I was -able to ascertain that they are made of red Palestine breccia, a rock -occurring in abundance on the west of the city, near the Greek convent -of the Holy Cross. - -Antoninus of Piacenza[332], in the sixth century, saw the whole pile of -Justinian's building in its glory. He speaks of the adjoining hospice, -containing from 3000 to 5000 beds, wonders at the number, and praises -the piety of the Monks and Nuns who served there, and states that the -basilica of S. Mary was in front of the Temple of Solomon, and -communicated with the basilica of S. Sophia, situated on the site of the -Praetorium of Pilate. He also mentions that a stone was then exhibited -inside it, bearing the print of our Saviour's foot. It is remarkable -that a similar stone is now exposed to receive the reverence of the -Mohammedans at the south end of the present mosque. - -It appears that the basilica was not greatly injured at the time of the -Persian invasion, A.D. 614; as we find it open for Christian worship -when the troops of Omar were besieging Jerusalem. The Khalif visited it -after the surrender of the city to offer up his prayers within its -walls, and ordered that thenceforth it should be devoted to the rites of -his faith[333]. - -The Rev. G. Williams, in his learned and valuable work on the Holy -City[334], tells us that towards the end of the seventh century the -tenth Khalif, "'Abd-el-Melik covered its gates with plates of gold and -silver, but it was soon stripped of its treasures in consequence of the -poverty of his successors. During the Khalifat of his son Waled, the -eastern part of the mosque _el-Aksa_ fell to ruin, and as he had no -funds to repair it, he ordered the ruined part to be pulled down, and -the price of the materials to be distributed to the poor. Forty years -later, in the time of the second Abbasside Khalif Abu-J'afar-el-Mansur, -the east and west sides were decayed by time, or injured by an -earthquake, and as he could not afford to restore it, he stripped the -gold from the doors, coined it, and applied the proceeds to the -necessary repairs. A second earthquake shook down what he had rebuilt, -and his son and successor el-Mahadi (A.D. 775-785) found the mosque in -ruins. The character of the building was altered by this Khalif, whose -taste was offended by its proportions, and he gave orders that its -length should be diminished and its width increased. Again in the 452nd -year of the Hejra (A.D. 1060) it suffered materially from the falling in -of the roof." From the facts stated in this account we can see how -greatly the basilica of Justinian has been altered, and understand the -Saracenic features which now exist in the original building. The two -aisles added to the older structure on the east and west, the demolition -of the choir, and the erection of the south wall, belong to the great -alterations made by el-Mahadi. - -The Crusaders converted it into a residence under the name of the -'Palace of Solomon,' and a portion of it was granted to the Knights -Templar[335] by Baldwin II. Saladin restored the worship of Islam, and -it is now used for the rite _Shaffi_. - -We will now proceed to an examination of the exterior and interior of -the building itself. The facade has a porch with seven arches[336], -corresponding to the seven aisles of the mosque itself. The centre arch -is much larger than the others; all are acutely pointed. The form of the -battlements crowning the walls, the details of the niches, and the -ornamental painting characterise the architecture of this part as -Saracenic. On entering the mosque the keeper points out the sepulchre of -the sons of Aaron, opposite to the middle door. The central or more -ancient part of the building retains traces of a cruciform Christian -church, being a nave with two side aisles and a transept[337]; the -dimensions of the different parts also agree perfectly with this -plan[338]. The walls of the nave are supported by columns bearing -Corinthian capitals, which are rather overloaded with ornamental detail, -in the usual bad taste of Byzantine art. From these spring pointed -arches, and above them are two rows of windows with semicircular heads, -of which the lower range is open, the upper built up. The pillars -supporting the walls and aisles on each side are square, and very plain, -except on their faces to the east, which are relieved by projecting -half-columns. The two outermost aisles on each side are much lower than -the others, and shew in their rough walls a very different and later -style of masonry, thus proving that they were added at a subsequent -period. The transept is divided from the nave by a large pointed arch, -and at their intersection is a dome, rising from a cylindrical drum -supported by four pillars ornamented with shafts of verd antique with -Corinthian capitals. The section of the dome is slightly ovoid and the -drum has pointed windows, which prove that it must have been wholly -rebuilt at a date later than the original foundation of the church. Its -walls on the inside are adorned in the Saracenic style with arabesques, -flowers, landscapes, and mosaics (executed during the reign of Selim I. -and Solyman). This mass of ornament, though devoid of taste, when -combined with the coloured glass in the windows, produces an agreeable -and at first sight striking effect. Behind the south arch and under the -dome in the south wall is the _Mikhereb_ of the Mohammedans, indicating -the _Kibla_ or direction of Mecca. This is ornamented with small shafts -of porphyry and verd antique; the wall being faced with slabs of very -valuable marbles of different colours; the keeper asserts that the black -stone in the middle was brought from Mecca, and was taken from that -given by God to Abraham, as a token of His covenant with him. On the -right of this is the _Minbar_ or tribune for prayers, a magnificent work -in cedar wood, executed in former times by the carvers of Aleppo; it is -called _Borkan-ed-din-Khadki_, and to the right of it, is the stone with -the print of our Saviour's foot, mentioned above; to speak the truth, it -requires a vivid fancy to see the impression. In the arms of the -transept are fine columns of granite, verd antique, travertine, and -lumachello[339], supporting capitals of different patterns and -unquestionable antiquity. In the western arm, on the left hand, are two -columns of verd antique, a small distance apart, called by the -Mohammedans the 'Columns of Proof,' because, according to our guide, all -who enjoy the favour of God can pass through the narrow space between -them, but not those who are wicked. The worn state of their inner sides -shews the great number of the faithful who have passed the test. This -arm terminates in a long hall, whose low vaulted roof is supported by -pointed arches springing from many-sided pillars; it is called the -mosque of Abu-Bekr, but is really an ancient gallery built by the -Crusaders. Our guide tells us that in their time it was used as an -armoury, which is doubtless the truth, as the mosque _el-Aksa_ itself -was converted into a dwelling-house. At the end of the eastern arm is a -small vaulted hall, resting on the city wall and lighted by windows -commanding a fine view of the slopes of Ophel, part of the Kidron -valley, and the Mount of Offence with the village of Siloam. This -chamber is supposed to be the place in which Omar prayed for the first -time within the walls of the _Haram_: by the spot where he knelt there -is a niche, ornamented with two columns of clouded grey marble, which -have been inverted by the architect, so that the capitals richly carved -with leaves serve as bases. This is called especially the mosque of -Omar, as it continued to be the private oratory of the Khalif. On -turning back to enter the main building, we see on the right a kind of -chapel, wherein is a niche ornamented with marble, called _Bab er-Rahma_ -(Gate of Mercy), near it are the _Mikhereb_ of S. John (Baptist) and -Zacharias. On quitting the mosque by the great northern door, and -turning to the right, we find a flight of steps leading down to the -subterranean vaults below it. - -These consist of two large corridors running below and parallel to the -mosque. The floor slopes from north to south, and near the latter -extremity there is a change in the level[340]. At the entrance they are -separated by a wall entirely of Arab work, and farther on by an arcade -supported by square pillars; the vaulting is not quite circular, being -slightly flattened; it is very regular, and composed of stones of -moderate dimensions, well chiselled with sharp edges. They are not of an -uniform size, but nevertheless perfectly correspond with Roman work, as -do the two pillars, and cannot belong to an earlier period; being laid -with mortar and with great accuracy. The east wall is formed of oblong -blocks, all of moderate dimensions and laid with mortar. The stones are -well squared and smoothed by the hammer, without the least trace of -rustic work; the surface of the wall is smooth and perpendicular to the -ground and cannot be considered anything but Roman masonry. The west -wall differs somewhat from the above in the form of its materials; these -are large blocks of stone resembling in their size those attributed to -the Herodian age. On some the rustic work remains, on others there are -but slight traces of it, and after a very minute and careful -examination, I think that there has been an attempt to destroy it on -all, with the intention of smoothing the face of the wall: these blocks -are all laid with mortar, but not arranged in regular courses; and the -wall is perpendicular to the ground. It is quite evident that, though -materials found among the extensive ruins have been used in constructing -this wall, the present building is not of the age of Herod, still less -of Solomon, but without doubt of Justinian. At the south end of the -vault the two galleries unite, the line of the arcade dividing them -being only marked by a large monolithic column and two half-columns; one -attached to the last pillar on the north, the other to a wall on the -south. The vaulting of this chamber consists of four hemispherical -cupolas, divided by arches springing from the central pillar, with a -shell ornament on the pendentives. Two doors, still remaining in the -south wall, communicated with the outside. The one on the east is the -Gate of Huldah, which we noticed during our survey of the exterior, -inside it is marked by a marble pillar built into the wall; the other -opens into a chamber, and is flanked by two marble pillars with elegant -capitals[341]. The east and west walls in this lower portion of the -gallery are a continuation of those described above, and of similar -masonry; but the face of the south wall which divides the two doors is -entirely formed by four great blocks, laid without mortar. This, then, -together with the monolith and its capital[342], I consider a fragment -of Herod's magnificent building; but I attribute the cupolas in the -vaulting and the two doors to Justinian's restoration. It is very -probable that the gates and the gallery were built in the days of -Solomon, either as an entrance to the Temple from the south, or perhaps -as part of the substructure of the palace of Pharaoh's daughter, which -may have occupied this position. The whole was, no doubt, destroyed by -the Chaldeans and repaired to the best of his ability by Nehemiah. It is -very probable that the south gate and the galleries were rebuilt by -Herod, when he undertook his great work of the restoration of the -Temple, to form a communication between it (especially the Court of the -Gentiles) and the south part of the city. We need not suppose that it -was entirely destroyed when the Romans razed the sacred buildings, -because, though the ruins which fell upon it might injure the vaulting, -they would also cover and so preserve it. In the gate at the south -extremity we recognise the Middle Gates of Josephus; the position of -which is defined by the words of the historian: "the fourth front of the -Temple, which was southwards, had gates in the middle[343]." Justinian -was, I think, the person who repaired and adorned these gates, and -rebuilt the vaults, to support the foundations of his basilica, and -serve at the same time for a communication between Moriah and the south -part of the city. The east wall of the galleries is underneath the row -of pillars, on the east of the first side aisle in the same direction; -that is, under one of the outer walls of the ancient basilica; while the -west wall is exactly under the line running down the middle of the great -nave. The architect must have _rebuilt_ them to serve for this purpose, -and not simply availed himself of what was already there, because, as I -have already said, the character of the masonry in the walls shews that -it is not older than the age of Justinian. - -Let us now refer to the account given by Procopius[344], who, after -stating that the Emperor Justinian had ordered a Temple, dedicated to -the Virgin, to be built at Jerusalem on the most prominent of the hills, -goes on to say, "The hills however had not sufficient space for the -completion of the work according to the Emperor's order; but a fourth -part of the Temple was deficient, towards the south and the east, just -where it is lawful for the priests to perform their rites. Hence the -following device was conceived by the persons who had charge of the -work--they laid the foundations at the extreme of the flat ground and -raised a building of equal height with the rock. When, then, they had -brought it as high as the extremity, they placed over the intervening -space arches from the top of the walls, and connected the building with -the remainder of the Temple's foundation. In this way the Temple is in -part founded on solid rock and in part suspended; the Emperor's power -having contrived a space in addition to the hill." He also states that -this is the only building in the city situated in this way. I agree with -what the historian says of the want of space, on the south and east -(where the ruined vault was), and that the persons in charge of the work -built the side walls as described, but do not believe that they were -the first persons to construct them; they found them existing, but in -ruins, and made use of the excellent materials which were lying on the -spot, to rebuild them to suit their purpose; repairing such parts as -they found standing upright and firm. - -As I agree in almost every point with the opinion of M. de Vogue, I -quote his words[345]: "This gallery is a Byzantine building, and is -roofed with two parallel barrel vaults, the inner sides of which are -supported by a row of semicircular arches springing from square piers. -The south end is covered by four domes arranged in a square, resting on -pendentives; and the four arches dividing and supporting them spring -from an isolated central column. This arrangement is characteristic, so -that though the end of the building is ancient, and probably of the age -of Herod, it is impossible to assign that date to a vestibule vaulted -with domes. This portion of the passage has then been rebuilt at a -comparatively modern period, namely that of the foundation of the -basilica." - -The only point on which I differ from the above is, that I believe the -monolith, the south wall, and perhaps some portion (in the lower parts) -of the side walls of the end gallery to be of the age of Herod. Near the -entrance, on the west side, I discovered a dark room; the Arab wall -above mentioned has been built to enclose it, and, at the same time, -conceal a doorway, leading into an underground passage, which runs to -the west, and formerly came out inside the city, to the south of the -_Mekhemeh_. It is possible that the doorway, half buried in the ground, -near the Jews' wailing place, is its other extremity. I endeavoured to -clear a passage to it, but was prevented by the mass of rubbish by which -it had designedly been blocked up, and obliged to abandon my attempt; -the keeper however assured me that I was right in my conjecture. There -is also an aperture in the east wall, now closed with loosely built -stones and rubbish, which seems to have been the entrance to a passage -leading into the vault at the south-east corner of the _Haram_. In the -west wall of the western corridor, just before reaching the steps -leading down into the chamber of the monolith, is a small arch, rising -about four feet above the ground. A Mohammedan tradition asserts this to -be the entrance to an underground passage, leading to the Tomb of David; -it is now however impossible to explore it. There is also a space in the -east wall of the above chamber, formerly occupied by a doorway, which no -doubt communicated with a passage into the vaults we have already -visited, in the south-east corner of the _Haram_; it is exactly in a -line with the door I pointed out in them. Hence we see how the stables -were reached from inside the enclosure. Opposite to this doorway is -another, in the west wall, leading into the vaults below the mosque -Abu-Bekr or the armoury of the Templars. These are very likely the -underground passages in which the Jews took refuge during a riot[346]; -that they communicated with Mount Sion seems established by the account -given by Josephus[347] of the attempted escape of the tyrant Simon from -that place; who appeared on the spot where the Temple had stood, dressed -in purple and white, in the hope of terrifying the Roman guard. This is -also an additional proof that the architects of Justinian were not the -original builders of these vaults. - -Returning to the outer air and going towards the south-west angle of the -_Haram_ we see the mosque of the Mogarabins, or western Mohammedans. It -is a plain edifice without aisles, with some buildings attached to it -serving as a hospice for pilgrims; in which Abd-el-Kader resided during -his visit to the city in 1857. On the west side of the enclosure are -various buildings, chiefly of the dates of the Crusaders, of Saladin, or -of Solyman; with a chapel dedicated to _Cobba-Moussa_ (Moses), a -fountain for ablutions, and several small edifices which may be seen in -the plan. - -The mosque _Kubbet es-Sakharah_[348] stands upon an irregular -quadrilateral platform, raised above the general level of the _Haram_, -consisting almost wholly of rock, and surrounded by a low wall intended -(most unsuccessfully) rather for ornament than use. Abutting on it, and -in different parts of the platform itself, are several small buildings, -crowned with elegant domes, and applied to various uses; some for -oratories or schools, or for interviews between the faithful and their -spiritual advisers; others for houses for the readers of the Koran, -dervishes, and the keepers of the mosque; others again for stores. Two -or three flights of steps on each side lead up to the platform, which is -regarded by the Mohammedans as a sacred place. The number of steps in -each flight is not the same, owing to the differences of level in the -general surface of the _Haram_. They are made of white Palestine -breccia, and at the head of each stands an elegant arcade of pointed -arches, with columns of different materials, such as granite, or verd -antique, or marble of less value; these generally differ both in height -and diameter, in their bases and in the patterns of their capitals. -Hence I am led to suppose that they formerly belonged to one of the -Christian churches, which the Mohammedans destroyed and robbed of their -ornaments to decorate their own sanctuary. These slender structures are -not all alike; some have four arches and three columns, others six or -seven arches with a corresponding number of columns; but their general -effect is very good. The whole of the platform is paved with large slabs -of white Palestine breccia, concealing the rough surface of the rock; -which I saw underneath when some slight repairs were in progress, and -also in the houses abutting on the wall, and in the cisterns; there is -therefore no doubt that this is the actual summit of Moriah. - -From this esplanade there is a fine view of the mosque[349], a structure -whose lightness, elegance, and richness is surpassed by very few. Its -plan is very simple: a circular drum, rising above a regular octagonal -base, supports a pointed dome, whose form is enough to characterise the -building as Saracenic. The upper part of the dome is slightly pointed, -while the lower is almost imperceptibly contracted. Its gracefulness is -thus increased, without loss of grandeur. It is covered with zinc; the -drum is inlaid with small glazed tiles of different colours (called -Damascenes by the Levantines), which, being made expressly for the -purpose, bear on them arabesques and maxims from the Koran with other -inscriptions, standing out clearly from a blue background. The octagon -is faced with slabs of veined white marble for a height of five feet -from the ground; and then incrusted with coloured bricks, which -terminate in a cornice covered with Arabic inscriptions. The south-west -face of the octagon is uncovered, and exposes the original rough wall; -whose stones and masonry prove that the whole, without exception, is the -work of Saracenic artists. All the doors and windows are pointed; but -their original shape was slightly altered during the restorations in the -sixteenth and seventeenth centuries; especially in the case of the -windows of the drum, whose outside moulding is now square. - -Opposite to the Gate of David (on the east side) is a small building -with a dodecagonal dome, supported by columns of valuable marbles with -very old capitals. Their bases are of different heights, to compensate -for the inequality in the length of the shafts. It is called _Kubbet -es-Silsileh_ (the dome of the chain) or _Kubbet el-Berareh_ (the dome of -justice), being, according to Mohammedan tradition, the site of the -judgement seat of David, to which he will return on the Last Day[350]. -After stamping on the floor and carefully examining the interior of this -edifice, I have come to the conclusion that there is a vault below it, -in the middle, which however is of no great size, and is very probably -part of a conduit. The south door has a porch supported by eight columns -of verd antique with Corinthian capitals; on the west, near to this, the -Santon points out a slab of veined marble called 'the Bird of -Solomon[351].' - -In my description of the interior of the mosque[352], I shall, in a -great measure, follow the account of M. de Vogue[353], with several -additions and omissions. It is divided into three concentric spaces, by -two arcades, the inner circular, the outer octagonal in plan. The first, -which supports the drum of the dome, is formed by four large -quadrangular piers and twelve columns; the second by eight piers and -sixteen columns; these two outer galleries have flat ceilings of painted -wood; the shafts of the columns are made of valuable marbles, the -majority of verd antique. I think they may have been taken from -Constantine's church of the Resurrection, when it was lying in ruins, -after its destruction by Chosroes; for many of them have been broken, -and are united again by iron hoops; others shew chips and bruises -apparently produced by a fall; besides, they do not correspond one with -another, either in diameter or in height. The history of the other -Christian edifices in Jerusalem supplies us with not a few instances of -a similar spoliation; while we have no record in the Mohammedan -chronicles, that valuable foreign marbles were brought by them to the -city; as was done by Constantine according to Eusebius. The bases of the -columns in the inner range are Attic, those in the second are different, -and of a debased style; very frequently the shaft rests on a cubical -plinth of white marble without any base moulding. Their capitals are -Byzantine, that is, resemble more or less closely an order which is a -coarse copy of the Corinthian[354]. The arches of the inner arcade -spring directly from the capitals of the columns; but the arrangement in -the outer one is very peculiar. On the capitals is placed a large block, -resembling a truncated pyramid (base square), supporting a horizontal -entablature, from which springs a series of slightly pointed arches: -their form and ornamentation are thoroughly Saracenic, as is the mosaic -work over the arches[355]. The quasi-capitals of the piers are formed by -an arcade in low relief, enclosing a series of palm trees, rudely -executed. The drum is inlaid with mosaic of various leaf patterns. The -upper part of the dome is profusely adorned with gilded arabesques on -different coloured grounds. The shape of the building, its ornamentation -in carved wood, mosaic, pictures and gilding; in a word, its whole -appearance bears a Turco-Arabian character of various periods, more -especially from that of Saladin to that of Solyman. - -In the centre of the mosque is a rock, rising above the floor, and -occupying nearly the whole space under the dome, whose bare rough -surface is strangely contrasted with the rich decorations surrounding -it. This is _es-Sakharah_, the great object of the Mohammedan's -reverence[356], which gives the building its name. Its highest part is -some five or six feet above the pavement. No tool has ever touched its -upper surface, but the north and west sides have been hewn vertical, and -from the appearance of the work, I am inclined to think that it was done -when the mosque was built by Omar. A circular hole is cut in its highest -part towards the south-west, and on the south-east side is a doorway -leading down into a rather large chamber within it, whitewashed, and -lighted by the above-named hole. The Iman, who accompanied us, informed -us that the rock is suspended in the air[357], and also that it has a -great cavity beneath, and certainly by stamping on the floor and -striking the walls a hollow sound is produced; but this is not to be -wondered at, because, in order to give a more regular shape to the -chamber, (as it is only a cistern,) they have built a slight wall within -it all round, in front of the shelving sides. The hollow sound, heard on -striking a large slab in the middle of the floor, is to be explained by -the existence of a communication with a lower cistern; how I -ascertained this fact I will presently relate. The Mohammedans -themselves account for it by saying, that this is the well of the souls -of the dead, called by them _Bir el-arruah_[358]. I consider it the -cistern of the threshing floor of Araunah. - -The Turkish Iman related to us many legends connected with the inside -and outside of this rock. The description of the plan will explain the -shorter of these; the others will be found in the Notes[359]. - -On quitting the mosque by the south door, we find, opposite to us, a -_minbar_ or pulpit, ornamented with small columns, and marbles of -different colours. Saladin built it as a place from which to read -prayers on days of great solemnity[360]. On the west of this, the spot -is pointed out on which he slept after entering Jerusalem, and where he -also remained to assist in the purification of the mosque. - -I have now finished my description of those places in the _Haram_, which -can be easily seen or visited; but not of those below the ground, which -we will presently proceed to examine; but before doing this, I will -endeavour to apply to the _Haram_ area, the _data_, which history and -Rabbinical traditions afford to us on the position of the ancient -Temple. - -From the historical and other evidence, which I have now brought -forward, it results that I consider _the rock of the Sakharah to fix, -positively and precisely, the position of the threshing floor of -Araunah, and, consequently, of the Temple of Solomon_. - -Starting from this as a definite point, I shall endeavour, not indeed to -restore the sacred edifice in its minutest details, but to lay down on -the existing area the position of the House itself, and the principal -places in connection with it. - -Now the surface of the _Haram_, at the present time, is divided into -three stages of different level. - -(1) The highest is the rock _es-Sakharah_; unquestionably the summit of -Mount Moriah, which, doubtless, was left standing in a conspicuous -position, as a perpetual memorial to posterity of the spot, where David -offered the sacrifice, which God had so mercifully accepted. On this, -then, I place _the altar of burnt offerings_. - -(2) The platform of the present mosque is to be regarded as the space -levelled by Solomon to support _the House itself, with the Inner Court -of the Priests, and the Great or Outer Court_, occupied by the people, -during the performance of the sacred rites. - -(3) The lower plateau of the _Haram_ has been formed by the made ground -constructed by Solomon; which was afterwards extended, especially at the -time of Herod, to make a large and convenient space round the Temple; -and was at that time called _the Court of the Gentiles_. - -Let us now proceed to examine in detail these three elevations, -referring to the authorities whom I have already cited in my -description of the Temples of Solomon and Herod[361]. I consider the -_Sakharah_ to be the site of the altar of burnt-offerings, because it is -very improbable that Solomon would have chosen any other position for it -than that indicated by an Angel to the prophet Gad. Those who object are -bound to explain why this rock alone was left in its natural rough state -amid the splendour of the Temple. If it were not reserved for some -purpose of the highest importance, it would never have been spared when -everything around it was levelled. We shall now see that this site -satisfies the requisite conditions. (1) _The altar was to be of unhewn -stone, and not reached by steps._ Therefore the bronze altar of Solomon -can have only been an ornamental casing for the rock. The shape of the -_Sakharah_ is adapted for this purpose, and it has a regular slope on -the south side leading up to the higher part; and, according to the -Rabbinic traditions, this was the position of the inclined ascent. (2) -_It was a square of twenty cubits._ The rock is large enough to admit of -this and still leave room for the ascent. (3) There must have been _a -capacious receptacle for its drainage_, as they burnt upon it the -victims and their fat, and sprinkled the blood upon and around it. This -was the cavern we have just visited, with the one below, which we shall -presently describe. (4) _It occupied an elevated position_, as appears -from both the Bible and the Rabbinic traditions; probably in order that -the sacrifices might be seen by the people. The present site satisfies -this condition. (5) There must have been _cisterns for water and -drainage on the north side_ to wash the victims and cleanse the ground -from blood, because there the Levites appointed for that duty flayed -them, and had their chambers[362]. (6) _On the east side of the altar -must be a 'place of the ashes,'_ where also the refuse of the victims -might be cast. I cannot but think that this would be outside the -above-named sacred courts; and in fact we find a connected system of -cisterns to the west of the Golden Gate, which I believe were used for -this purpose. (7) The great 'sea of bronze' was to the south-east of the -altar, as we are told by the Mischna; therefore _in this direction there -should be traces of the place from which it was supplied_. Now on the -platform of the mosque, south-east of the rock, is a vault, and to the -south of it many cisterns of water, one of which might have supplied the -sea. These latter, I think, may have been in the great court; so that -after the priests had purified themselves at them, they could enter the -sacred enclosure. - -Therefore I conclude that the locality satisfies the conditions required -by this position of the altar of burnt-offerings and the places in its -neighbourhood; and we have only to see if the cisterns and vaults, -mentioned above, are connected by subterranean passages, to admit of the -flow of water or of blood, as the case may be. That this requirement is -also satisfied, will be presently seen from the account of my -investigations among them. - -I have already stated that I suppose the Temple and its sacred courts to -have occupied the second plateau. The House itself was 60 cubits long -and 20 wide, lying east and west; the porch in front on the east side -was 10 cubits long. If then we circumscribe a square with a side of 20 -cubits about the rock, facing to the four points of the compass, and -produce its north and south sides westward, we inclose a space on the -plateau large enough to admit a building of the required dimensions, and -sufficient space is left even for the courts and buildings of Herod's -Temple. We are told by Josephus that the Temple was not situated in the -middle of the area on the summit of Moriah, but rather towards the -north-west corner: a glance at the Plan will shew that this condition is -satisfied. The same historian relates that the Temple of Herod was a -square of 500 cubits; the place admits of this; consequently we may -conclude that we are right in assigning this site to the ancient Temple. - -That the position of the third plateau has been rightly assigned, hardly -needs demonstration. The made ground is still to be seen on the east -side, and the levelled surfaces and projecting remnant of rock on the -north-west; while we have already noticed the great works by which it -was enlarged on the south. Hence the three levels of the _Haram -es-Sherif_ correspond with the three spaces occupied by the ancient -Temple. - -It may also be as well to mention a plan of Solomon's Temple, set forth -by some of the Rabbinical authors[363]. They circumscribe a square, with -a side of 20 cubits, about the rock, which they also consider the site -of the altar of burnt-offerings; about this they describe symmetrically -another square, with a side of 180 cubits; then dividing each side into -9 equal parts, and joining the opposite points, the whole is subdivided -into 81 squares, with the square about the rock in the middle. To the -west of this they leave one square, and consider the next three in the -same row to be the site of the House itself. The rows lying north, east, -and south of the five squares mentioned above, are considered to form -the Court of the Levites. (The square between the altar and the Temple -they suppose to have been occupied by the porch and its approach, the -walls of the building, &c.). Parallel to the east side of the above -court, at a distance of 10 cubits, they draw a line, and consider the -parts cut off on the west as the Court of the Israelites, and that -farthest to the east as the Women's Court. Every one may form his own -opinion as to how far this plan may agree with that of Solomon's Temple -(with whose dimensions we are only partially acquainted); for my part I -think that the spaces allotted to the courts are too small, and ought to -be enlarged. - -In order that my investigations among the cisterns, pools, and conduits -in this part of Jerusalem may be understood, I must call the reader's -attention to the three following facts, which for the present I simply -state, but of which I will hereafter give a more detailed account, with -proofs of my assertions where they are necessary. (1) That water is -brought into Jerusalem, and especially into Moriah, by a conduit from -Etham. (2) That in the bath of the _Hammam es-Shefa_ is a spring of -undrinkable water. (3) That at the bottom of the Kidron valley, to the -south-east of the same corner of the _Haram_, is a spring called the -Fountain of the Virgin. I will now enter upon the history of my -discoveries, describing them in order of time, so that the reader may -understand the manner in which the conclusions I have drawn from them -were reached, and the various obstacles which I had to overcome. Before -undertaking an investigation of the subterranean works on Mount Moriah, -a task demanding so large an expenditure of time and money, and -encompassed with so many difficulties, wherein, if discovered, I might -be exposed to very great danger, without any hope of defence or escape, -I considered how far it could be avoided by a careful examination of all -that could be seen on the surface, by a study of the works on the -subject, and by collecting all the information that was possible from -ancient traditions and all other sources; but when all this was done, I -found that I had not been able to form a clear idea of the hidden -recesses of the _Haram_, of its ancient reservoirs and conduits for -water, blood, and other purposes, or of the points where the latter -entered or left the enclosure. I had indeed obtained a knowledge of many -useful facts, but not of what I wanted, and was therefore obliged to -wait until an opportunity occurred of making an accurate scrutiny of the -place itself. This was long in arriving; but by patience and -perseverance I at last succeeded in accomplishing my undertaking, as -will be seen from the following narrative. - -I felt tolerably certain of the existence of a double-chambered cistern -beneath the _Sakharah_, (called in the Rabbinical traditions _Amah_,) -and had no doubt that it had been used to catch the blood of the -victims; in accordance with the statement in the Mischna, that under the -altar of burnt-offerings, to the south-west, was a conduit by means of -which the blood sprinkled on it flowed into the Kidron Valley[364]. I -had also seen on the north side of the platform of the mosque the -openings of two cisterns; and the Mohammedan keepers assured me that the -one to the north contained dirty water, but that the other was dry, and -had been so for many centuries. I accordingly tasted the water of the -former, and found it excellent; and therefore concluded that it was -nothing but a traditional prejudice, derived from the fact that the -place had formerly received the blood of the victims, which are said to -have been slain there[365]. I have already stated that the cistern on -the west of the Golden Gate appeared, in accordance with the _data_ in -the Bible, a probable position for the 'place of the ashes[366].' I had -also learned that some, especially among the Jews, were of opinion that -the Pool of Bethesda was not only used to cleanse the victims for -sacrifice, but also to receive the water which had served for that -purpose, when the animals were flayed in the neighbourhood of the -Temple; also that it was supplied from some pools on a higher level; and -that, when it became necessary to empty it, the filth escaped by a -conduit excavated in the rock, on the east, down into the torrent -Kidron. Now I do not know whether there was a channel of communication -from the Temple to the pool; but it is certain that there were upper -pools[367], and that its waters would naturally escape into the Kidron. -To establish this last point is impossible, from the quantity of rubbish -that fills the pool, and the accumulation of earth outside the walls; -but it is so obvious that it hardly needs demonstration. In the -south-east corner of the pool there is an opening, which apparently -belongs to a conduit, but it is now built up; and on the whole of the -south wall, which is almost buried with earth, there are not any signs -of other mouths. It was then evident that if the water came to it from -the Temple it must enter either from higher ground on the west, or by -the above opening. This however could not be proved without an -examination of the interior of the _Haram_. The keepers of the mosque -wished to persuade me that the water from the spring of the _Hammam -es-Shefa_ flowed into the cistern beneath the _Sakharah_. Very -frequently, on different days, during the deepest silence, I placed my -ear on the great slab, in the middle of the chamber in the rock, beneath -the mosque, but could not hear the slightest sound. I observed that the -floor was paved with marble, and therefore frequently examined both it -and the walls to see if they gave out damp; (if water had been flowing -below, there would certainly have been some moisture;) but they were -always perfectly dry, even during wet weather, so that this test induced -me to reject the common notion that water ran beneath this place. - -Again, one day in the month of January 1857, during an excessively rainy -season, and while a quantity of fallen snow was melting, I observed, on -passing along the Kidron valley, a large stream falling down from the -mouth of a conduit high up in the western bank of the torrent, nearly -opposite to the Tomb of Absalom. I was delighted at the sight, and -instantly resolved to enter the place as soon as the flow of water had -ceased. However, on reflection, I abandoned the design; because I should -have exposed myself to certain danger, since the hill-side at that place -is almost vertical above, and excessively steep on both sides and below, -besides being composed of loose earth that has been thrown down there -and been accumulating for centuries. In course of time the opening was -closed by a landslip, but the water still forced its way through in the -rainy seasons of the following years. The question occurred to me, Can -this be the mouth of the conduit of blood? It was however impossible to -answer it without examining the ground, and this was impracticable by -reason of the great expense of removing such a quantity of soil, and the -fanaticism of the Mohammedans, who would never have allowed me to enter -a subterranean passage possibly leading towards the _Haram_; to which -place I had not then the right of entrance. - -My next information was derived from a brave old Bedouin, who had taken -part in the war against Ibrahim Pasha. In the month of May of the same -year he informed me, in the course of the story of his life, that -underground conduits ran from the Fountain of the Virgin into the -interior of the city and Temple; which he had once traversed with a -company of Arabs in making a night attack on the city, in order to -surprise the Egyptian troops at the gates and admit his own companions. -I wanted him to give me more minute information, but he refused, even -when I offered him money; and it was not until a later period that I -obtained fuller details from a peasant in the neighbourhood of -Jerusalem; of which I afterwards availed myself, as will be seen: but -even in his case, in spite of bribes, I was obliged to content myself -with listening, without verifying what was reported. - -In the month of September 1857, I was walking outside the east wall of -the _Haram_, and stopped to watch an Arab who was digging a grave near -the southern extremity of the cemetery. I entered into conversation with -him, with a view of quietly examining his excavation; but on reaching a -depth of three feet he stopped, as his work was finished; for the dead -Arabs like the earth to lie light upon them. However, by a present I -induced him to continue his labour; but after going down about 2 feet -more, he again desisted, at the instigation of another workman, who in -the mean time had come to bring him some food. A little more money set -them both at work, and after sinking 2 feet lower, they came upon -something hard, which on examination proved to be a wall, belonging, as -I suspected, to a conduit; and by widening the excavation a little, we -found the corresponding side wall at a distance of 3-1/2 feet, both -being of great age. I would gladly have had them continue their work; -but they were both tired, and also afraid of being seen digging so deep, -in the company of a European and Christian; besides, the corpse was -expected before long; so they partially filled up the hole as quickly as -possible. I was however satisfied with what I had seen, and a few days -after, having obtained permission from the Pasha, on some trifling -pretext, I employed them, with two other workmen, to make an excavation -opposite to the south-east corner of the _Haram_ (not being able to dig -farther to the north on account of the graves); and after two days' hard -work we found, at a depth of 11 feet, remains of a conduit resembling -the former, and, like it, 3-1/2 feet in breadth. The walls were 2-3/4 -feet high, but had been higher, the upper part having been destroyed. I -thought that these were more likely to belong to the conduit for blood -than the opening which I had seen in the Kidron valley, as that was too -low relatively to the upper and middle levels of the _Haram_, and too -far (being about 30 feet) above the bottom of the valley, which is now -much higher than in former times; for I can hardly think that the blood -and filth would be openly disgorged in a kind of cataract from the -sewer. What a quantity of water would in that case have been required to -transport the refuse of the victims from the front of the Temple, where, -because of the Jewish law, they could never have been suffered to -remain! Two points however had to be established, the proof of which was -far from easy, before I could assert that the conduit for blood flowed -into the Fountain of the Virgin; a place which might have been chosen, -both because it was at a considerable distance from the Temple, and -because the constant supply of water from the spring would carry on the -refuse into the Kidron. These were, (1) whether the lowest part of the -Fountain (which is reached by a long descending flight of steps) was -above the bed of the torrent; and (2) whether, in the interior of the -_Haram_, a conduit had existed, connecting the cistern beneath the rock -_Sakharah_ with that on the west of the Golden Gate, and had gone from -this point outside the wall, in a course agreeing with the traces I had -already discovered. Accordingly I hired some of the peasants of Siloam, -and made an excavation in the valley, to the east of the mouth of the -Fountain, and ascertained that its lowest point was about 5-3/4 feet -higher than the present bed of the torrent; which has been much raised -by the rubbish accumulated during so many centuries, that is not only -brought down by the stream itself from the north, but also falls in from -the sides of the valley during the rainy season. This determined, I made -a second excavation near the steps leading down to the Fountain, and at -a depth of 16 feet found part of the bottom of the original pool, and a -fragment of the side wall; and thus saw that the conduit might have -emptied itself directly into this pool, into which the water flowed from -the Fountain (situated 5 feet above it): whence the refuse descended -into the Kidron 4-1/2 feet below, and so was carried away by the -torrent. As the quantity of water supplied by the spring could never -have been very large, it occurred to me that on special occasions, when -a great number of victims was sacrificed, there would be some method of -increasing the torrent to enable it to sweep away the refuse quickly; -and at first I supposed that the water of the Pool of Bethesda was used -for that purpose, but afterwards I found that it was not the only means -employed. Had I been able, I should at once have followed up the -subject, by investigations in the interior of the _Haram_; but all my -attempts at that time proved ineffectual, and I was obliged to wait for -a more favourable opportunity. - -I obtained another clue to the positions of some of the cisterns within -the enclosure, during the summer months of 1857. I had frequently -visited the ground between the city-wall and the south-west part of the -_Haram_, in order to search for old coins, and was struck with the -luxuriance of the vegetation there, even in the driest weather. On -asking the farmer for an explanation of this, I obtained no other answer -than that it was due to God's grace. I did not of course doubt that this -was a sufficient cause; but at the same time I was desirous of finding a -more natural reason; the more so because, on certain evenings, I -observed that he drew a large quantity of water for his plants from a -cistern near the south-west corner of the _Haram_. I therefore asked him -repeatedly, and in all kinds of indirect ways, (as is necessary in -dealing with Arabs,) if his cistern contained much water; but he always -evaded my question, and I was never able to overcome his reticence or -outwit his craft. Even the offer of money produced no effect, and -subsequently he refused to allow me to examine its interior; still, -although baffled, I felt certain that this cistern was supplied from -another inside the _Haram_, which was the true 'God's grace.' I found -afterwards, as will be seen, that I was quite right in my supposition. - -I had also frequently remarked, during the rainy season, that the water -running down the street in the central valley flowed into a large -opening on the east side, level with the ground, to the south of the -fountain near the bazaar leading to the _Haram_. From this I inferred -that it found its way into the sewer which passes along the valley at a -lower level. Some old men, who had for many years been employed in the -repairs of the conduits, told me that I was right, and informed me at -the same time that from this opening it was possible to go along -underground and come out inside the _Haram_, by a conduit which entered -a cistern on the lowest plateau, situated on the west side near the -south end of the platform of the mosque _es-Sakharah_, and filled by the -water that had drained from the street. Such was the information that I -had obtained concerning the underground works of the Temple, up to the -end of 1857. It had not enabled me to arrive at any positive conclusion, -and I was puzzled about the conduit for blood, because the Rabbinical -writers made it begin beneath the sacred rock on the south-west, in -which direction I had not been able to discover any traces of it. - -During the winters of 1858 and 1859 no great quantity of rain fell at -Jerusalem, and the cisterns were in consequence not filled; so that in -the summer months there was a scarcity of water. Under these -circumstances Surraya Pasha ordered the conduit from Etham to be -repaired, in order that it might supply the _Haram_. I availed myself of -this circumstance, and entered many of the cisterns in that precinct, -which were either almost or quite dry, under the pretext of inspecting -them to see if they needed repairs. In the year 1856, when Kiamil Pasha -was governor, the Turkish engineer, Assad Effendi, had restored the -aqueduct, and I had assisted him as a volunteer, and had been able to -offer him some useful advice; which was the reason that I was now -employed. - -I will now relate my discoveries in connexion with this conduit, -commencing at the point where it enters Moriah. - -It comes down by the dyke or bridge crossing the Tyropoeon, and at the -present time empties itself into a small basin opposite to the entrance -of the _Mekhemeh_; but formerly it flowed into a large reservoir, still -existing in the lower part of that building, whence it went on into the -Temple. This chamber is now disused, and filled with rubbish. Thus by -their carelessness the Mohammedans lose the benefit of all the works of -antiquity in Jerusalem. From the above-named basin two conduits branch -out; the smaller and newer supplies water to the fountain in the middle -of the _Mekhemeh_, and then rejoins the larger and older one (2-3/4 feet -wide and 2-1/4 high), which, after passing under the _Bab es-Salsala_, -enters the _Haram_, and then, after running some little distance -southward, turns off at an angle and goes to the fountain opposite the -mosque _el-Aksa_, whence it proceeds to the great cistern called _Birket -es-Sultan_. During the course of the work I observed that the quantity -of water which entered the latter reservoir was less than that which -arrived at the _Mekhemeh_; and on examination I found that the conduit -had formerly kept on to the south, instead of turning to the east, and -that its old channel still existed at that point, by which, although -very much dilapidated and full of earth, a large part of the water was -diverted into an ancient cistern, 29 feet deep, to the north of the -mosque of the Mogarabins. Into this I descended, and found 6 feet of mud -at the bottom; and after hard work ascertained that the water entering -it from the conduit went out by another made nearly on a level with the -floor, which was too much choked up to be passable, but which ran in the -direction of the cistern of 'God's grace,' at the south-west corner of -the _Haram_, so profitable to my friend the farmer. On the east side of -the cistern of the Mogarabin mosque is the mouth of a conduit, walled up -to a height of 3 feet from the vaulting. I saw some traces of it on the -surface of the ground, but was unable to excavate; however, it was -evident that it went into the _Birket es-Sultan_. We repaired the -above-named corner of the conduit at present used, so that all the water -might flow into the fountain of the Aksa, where it would have again been -diminished before reaching the _Birket es-Sultan_, if we had not -completely closed up the mouth of a very ancient conduit (3 feet in -width and height), running northward and communicating with the lower -chamber of the cistern below the _Kubbet es-Sakharah_, which was -entirely cut in the rock, and covered with large slabs as far as the -south staircase of the upper platform. The above remarks on the works in -connexion with the conduit from Etham are sufficient for my present -purpose, and I will now pass on to relate my discoveries in the -different cisterns and conduits into which I descended. - -The water in the _Birket es-Sultan_ (Prince's Pool) was, at the time of -my visit, a foot deep; the sides and vaulting, with the piers supporting -it, have been hewn with great pains out of the rock. It is 32 feet in -height. In the wall near the opening from the fountain are notches cut -in the rock, obviously to be used as steps. There are two apertures in -its west side, the one already mentioned as coming from the fountain, -which almost touches the vaulting; the other, 4 feet lower down and -blocked up, which is the end of the conduit coming from the cistern near -the mosque of the Mogarabins. There is another opening on the north -which I could not examine; it is under the vaulting. On the south-east, -4 feet below the vaulting, is an opening walled up, corresponding with -the great chamber at the south-east angle of the enclosure, as I was -able to ascertain by examining the north-west corner of that place, -after removing a quantity of earth. On the south is another opening (now -closed with Arab masonry), 3 feet above the floor, 3-1/4 feet wide and -3-3/4 high; the beginning of a conduit mainly excavated and vaulted in -the rock, but for a short distance built with stones and roofed with -large slabs[368], which I have traced with difficulty and labour along -its whole course quite close to the Fountain of the Virgin. At certain -points it is 5 feet wide and 3-3/4 high. It bears the marks of a very -remote antiquity, and is, in my opinion, contemporaneous with the -building of the first Temple. After discovering this, I found out the -Bedouin peasant, who had on a former occasion told me of its existence, -and he now did not refuse to be my guide along it, and, to tell the -truth, I should not have been able to get on without him at some places, -either from the accumulation of rubbish, or the earth, which every -moment threatened to fall in, besides the great number of rats, -reptiles, insects, and a thousand other nuisances which I encountered. I -have traversed this passage three times and carefully examined it, and -regret to say that from its age and tottering condition parts of it will -soon fall into ruins. It is a great misfortune that a country possessing -so much that deserves to be studied and preserved should be governed by -a nation so unwilling to partake of European civilization. - -We will now examine the cisterns to the north of the mosque -_es-Sakharah_[369]. On entering the northern one (29-1/2 feet deep) I -found the floor covered with wet mud to a depth of about 1-1/2 feet. At -the first glance I saw an opening on the south side, 3 feet wide and -4-1/2 high, half built up with Arab masonry, and after clearing away -some of the stones, earth, and mud that blocked it up, I passed through -it into another cistern in the same direction, 32 feet deep. These are -both very ancient, and are wholly excavated in the rock; and I have no -doubt that they belonged to the threshing-floor of Araunah the Jebusite. -On the south and on the east of the deeper cistern are the openings to -two passages; the first leads to a conduit (3 feet wide and 3-1/2 high), -descending from the west; but after going a few feet along the passage -we find another conduit of the same size as the above, coming from the -south, and leading upwards into a double cistern, as I had always -expected. The form of the lower chamber is an irregular sphere, about 22 -or 23 feet in diameter, its floor is covered deep with dry mud with a -few stones, (but rather too many for me to remove). On a careful -examination I saw, at a height of 12-1/2 feet, the mouth of the hole -leading to the upper chamber, about 6-1/2 feet in diameter and 4 feet -long, and the marble slab, which we have already mentioned as covering -it. This it was that the Santon struck with his foot or stick to prove -the existence of the 'Well of the Souls' below! There is a conduit on -the south, into which I entered through an aperture (now walled up), and -by a very gradual ascent reached the other extremity at the fountain -opposite to the mosque _el-Aksa_. The whole depth of the double cistern -is 28-1/2 feet below the top of the rock, and 23-1/2 below the pavement -of the mosque. The reader may imagine my joy at this result of my -labours, so long desired and so anxiously sought, and the gratitude I -felt to God for granting me this boon of ascertaining the position of -the altar of burnt-offerings, and the cisterns and conduits for blood -belonging to the ancient Temple; an ample recompense for all my toil. It -is true indeed that after a most careful search I have not been able to -find any opening on the south-west, in accordance with the statement of -the Rabbinical writers; but for this time I trust my own eyes, and that -suffices me. - -Returning to the nearer of the two cisterns on the north of the mosque, -I went along the conduit, rising to the west, for a distance of 12 feet, -beyond which I could not advance because of the soil in it. It runs -exactly in the direction of the cistern, which is situated very near to -the north-west corner of the net-work on the Plan[370]: this I -afterwards endeavoured to enter, but found it filled with earth. The -other opening, on the east side of the first-named cistern, is that of a -descending conduit (about 3 feet wide and high), which I traversed for -some distance, until I was eventually stopped by a number of obstacles; -however, I ascertained clearly that it went towards the east. - -The above observations are the results of three visits, in which the -short time I was allowed to stay, the frequent summons to depart, -coupled with not a few threats when I resisted, prevented me from making -farther investigations; but there is nothing more to be found there of -greater importance than the things I have mentioned. - -On entering the cistern, excavated in the rock on the west of the Golden -Gate, I found that it was 20 feet deep, and that on the west side was -the mouth of the conduit, which I partially examined from the cistern -north of the mosque _es-Sakharah_. I was able to pass along it for some -distance on this side also, and found it to be 3-1/4 feet wide and 3 -high. The only thing that now remained to be done was to find the -conduit leading out of the cistern towards the east: and after a long -search I had begun to despair, when a labourer, who was working at the -south side of the chamber, told me that there were signs of an opening -there; in a few minutes it was uncovered, and through it I entered into -another cistern, whose floor was 4 feet below the level of the former; -and on the east side of this was a conduit, 3-1/2 feet wide and 3 high, -running towards the _Haram_ wall, which must have communicated with that -the ruins of which I had found outside the east wall. I had thus -completed a chain of evidence, which established the course of the -conduit for blood, as laid down by me, at every point. - -Marks of another opening appeared above the soil on the south side of -the same chamber, but I had not time to uncover it, being recalled into -the first cistern by the discovery of another passage on its north side; -through this I entered a series of cisterns, on a level of 3-1/4 feet -above the central. In the last of these, at the north end, was the -entrance to a conduit (2-1/2 feet wide and high), which sloped upwards -in the direction of the Pool of Bethesda. It was impossible to follow it -up, but from its direction, level, and design (as I will presently -shew), it must have corresponded with the opening (walled up) to which I -called attention at the south-east corner of the above Pool. - -Before proceeding to draw my final conclusions from the above -observations, I must remark that it is untrue that the water flowing -down the street of the Tyropoeon valley, at the time of rain, supplies -the cistern (on the lowest level) at the south-west corner of the -platform of the mosque. This (24 feet deep and wholly excavated in the -rock) receives the water that has been used by the Mohammedans for their -purifications, which is carried off from it into the great sewer in the -Tyropoeon by a conduit on the west side. I shall discuss the springs -of the _Hammam es-Shefa_ more fully in another place; at present I will -only observe that the depth of the source is about 96 feet below the -surface, consequently it is impossible that its waters could flow into -the cistern of the _Sakharah_, and to the Fountain of the Virgin. - -The cistern in front of the east gate of the bazaar (excavated in the -rock and 26 feet deep) has a conduit on the south, supplying the -fountain for ablutions, near the Chapel of Moses. This is filled by the -droppings from the terrace-roofs of the buildings on the east and west -of it, as well as from the ground around it. On the platform of the -mosque, near its south-east corner, is a cistern in the rock, whose -depth I was unable to measure, as it is nearly filled up: from it two -small conduits (of no antiquity) run in opposite directions, their -openings being above the vaulting; that on the north-west catches the -water dropping from the mosque, that on the east is intended to drain a -part of the platform, but it is now useless; both are visible on the -surface of the pavement. Lastly, the conduit parallel to the west and -north walls of _el-Aksa_, was made to receive the water from that -mosque, and carry it into the _Birket es-Sultan_. The remaining -cisterns, plentifully scattered over the _Haram_, are for the most part -useless. We see then that, while the Mohammedans pay no regard to the -works of antiquity, they are equally careless about those which are of -the highest importance to themselves. - -Having thus narrated the investigations I have made and the information -I have collected, I will now state my conclusions on the connexions and -purposes of these underground works. - -They are as follows: (1) That from the time of the building of the -Temple the conduit from Etham has emptied itself into the cistern -beneath the _Mekhemeh_, whence the water was conveyed into the Temple by -a branching system of conduits, the chief of which I have traced. (2) -That the cistern north of the Mosque of the Mogarabins was used as a -reservoir to supply Ophel, where at the present time but few traces of -these works are found. (3) The conduit leading from this into the -_Birket es-Sultan_ must have been intended to carry away any excess of -water, and also by this means to relieve that which now goes to the -fountain, especially when it might be out of order. It is obvious that -these filled the _Birket es-Sultan_, and consequently the great -reservoir at the south-east corner of the _Haram_. (4) It is probable -that the numerous cisterns on the west side may also have been fed by -different conduits, but I had not sufficient time to ascertain this. If -not, they might have been supplied by the drainings from the courts, the -terrace-roofs of the cloisters, and the Temple itself[371]. (5) The -fountain opposite to _el-Aksa_ is Saracenic, but not the basin in which -it stands. This supplied water to the cistern under the altar of -burnt-offerings, to cleanse it from the blood that flowed down from -above. Hence the stream ran into the cisterns on the north, and thence -into the 'place of the ashes' on the east, which I believe to have been -the southernmost of the underground chambers; and from this it went -outside the wall, and after passing along parallel to it, finally -emptied itself into the pool near the Fountain of the Virgin. (6) In the -'place of the ashes,' in which they cast the crops of the birds, the -entrails of the victims, and other refuse, a larger quantity of water -would be needful, especially at times when the sacrifices were numerous; -and I suppose that the conduit from the Pool of Bethesda was constructed -to augment the supply; also I fully believe that if I had found time to -uncover the apertures on the south of the 'place of the ashes,' and on -the north of the _Birket es-Sultan_, and to examine the cistern on the -south-east of the _Sakharah_, I should have discovered that this cistern -(where I place the 'bronze sea') was supplied from the _Birket_, and -discharged its waters into the 'place of the ashes.' Was there then also -a conduit on the north of the great reservoir at the south-east corner -communicating with the opening on the south of the 'place of the ashes'? -I sought for it without success owing to the accumulation of earth, the -want of time, and the continual interference of the Mohammedan guardians -of the _Haram_, who believed, as I suppose, that I was seeking for -treasures, when, on the contrary, I was spending my savings. - -If, after the sewage had reached the pool by the Fountain of the Virgin, -there was still need of a further supply of water to sweep it away, that -could be brought by the long conduit from the south side of the _Birket -es-Sultan_, by the conduit at the east end of the Pool of Bethesda, and -especially by a conduit, which, starting from the west extremity of the -Bridge, runs down the Tyropoeon to the Fountain of the Virgin, along -which the whole stream from Etham might be diverted, if necessary. I -have not mentioned this before, but will give a fuller description of it -in another place. The conduit on the west slope of the Kidron valley, -nearly opposite to the Tomb of Absalom, which I saw discharging so much -water in 1857, may possibly have been another means of augmenting the -supply, and may very probably (although I have not been able to prove -it) communicate with the great reservoir at the south-east corner of the -_Haram_, and have occasionally been used to lay it dry. - -I have now arrived at the end of my researches on Mount Moriah, and -leave the subject, trusting that some other explorer may find more -frequent opportunities and more favourable circumstances for examining -this venerable spot; and thus carry further my discoveries, and correct -any errors into which I may have fallen. - - -FOOTNOTES: - -[171] Note I. - -[172] Note II. - -[173] Plates XI., XII. - -[174] Gen. xxii. 2-14. - -[175] Note III.; Gen. xxviii. 10-12. - -[176] Gen. xxxv. 1-15. - -[177] 2 Sam. xxiv; 1 Chron. xxi. - -[178] 1 Chron. xxii. 1. - -[179] Ant. VII. 13, Sec. 4. - -[180] 2 Sam. xvii. 18; Jer. xli. 8. - -[181] Plate XXVII. - -[182] 1 Maccab. vi. 32, 33. - -[183] Note IV. - -[184] 1 Kings v. 18. - -[185] 2 Chron. ii. 13, 14. - -[186] 1 Kings v. 10, 11. - -[187] 2 Chron. ii. 16. - -[188] 1 Kings vii. 10, 11. - -[189] 1 Kings vi. 7. - -[190] Jewish War, V. 5, Sec. 1. - -[191] Ant. VIII. 3, Sec. 9; Jewish War, V. 5, Secs. 1, 2. - -[192] 1 Kings vi. 1, 38. - -[193] Note V. - -[194] Ant. VIII. 3. - -[195] Palestine, pp. 289-292. - -[196] 1 Kings vi. 2, 3. - -[197] 1 Kings vi. 17-20; viii. 9. - -[198] 2 Chron. iv. 9. - -[199] 2 Chron. iv. 9; Ezek. xl. 17. - -[200] 2 Chron. iv. 1; Ezek. xliii. 13, 18. - -[201] Note VI. - -[202] 2 Chron. iv. 2, 5, 6. - -[203] 1 Kings vii. 38. - -[204] 1 Kings vii. 38; 2 Chron. iv. 6; Lev. i. 9. - -[205] 1 Kings vi. 5; Ezek. xlii. 13. - -[206] Lev. i. 5, 11, 16; xiv. 11, 12. - -[207] Ezek. xl. 40, 41, 42, 46. - -[208] 1 Kings xiv. 25, 26. - -[209] 2 Kings xiv. 13. - -[210] 2 Kings xii. 4-14; 2 Chron. xxiv. 4-14. - -[211] 2 Kings xxv. 9. - -[212] 2 Kings xxv. 11, 12, 22, 23; Jer. xl. 6. - -[213] Jer. xl. 12. - -[214] 2 Kings xxv. 25. - -[215] 2 Kings xxv. 26; Jer. xliii. 7. - -[216] 2 Chron. xxxvi. 22, 23; Ezra i. 1; v. 13. - -[217] Note VII. - -[218] Ezra vii. 8, 9. - -[219] Ezra iii. 8, 12, 13; Haggai ii. 3. - -[220] Ezra iv. 1-24. - -[221] Ezra iv. 24; v. 1, 2. - -[222] Ezra vi. 15-17. - -[223] Ezra vi. 3. - -[224] Haggai ii. 3; Ezra iii. 12. - -[225] Ant. XV. 11, Sec. 1; Note VIII. - -[226] 1 Maccab. i. 20-23, 35, 36, 41; Ant. XII. 5, Secs. 3, 4. - -[227] 1 Maccab. iv. 41-59; Jewish War, I. 1, Sec. 1. - -[228] 1 Maccab. xii. 35-37. - -[229] 1 Maccab. xiii. 50-53. - -[230] Ant. XIII. 6, Sec. 7; Jewish War, I. 3, Sec. 3. - -[231] Ant. XIII. 11, Sec. 2; Jewish War, I. 3, Secs. 3-5. - -[232] Ant. XIV. 4, Sec. 2; Jewish War, I. 7, Secs. 1-3. - -[233] Ant. XIV. 16, Sec. 2. - -[234] Ant. XV. 11, Sec. 2. - -[235] S. John ii. 20. - -[236] S. Mark xiii. 1, 2. - -[237] Ant. XV. 11, Secs. 3-7; Jewish War, V. 5 (the more minute -account); Note IX. - -[238] Palestine, p. 551. - -[239] Ant. XV. 11, Sec. 3. - -[240] Ant. XIII. 6, Sec. 7; Jewish War, V. 4, Sec. 1. - -[241] Middoth, I. 3. - -[242] Ant. XV. 11, Sec. 5. - -[243] Ant. XV. 11, Sec. 3. - -[244] S. Matt. xxi. 12. - -[245] Note X. - -[246] Mischna, 2, Sec. 6. - -[247] Mischna, 2nd part, Treatise _Yoma_, c. III., Sec. 10; Babylonian -Talmud, same treatise, fol. 37. - -[248] Exod. xx. 25; Deut. xxvii. 5, 6. - -[249] Mischna, Treatise _Yoma_, c. III., Sec. 1. - -[250] Ezek. xl. 39, 40. - -[251] 2 Maccab. ii. 4-7. - -[252] Mischna, Treatise _Yoma_, c. V., Sec. 2, and the Rabbinical -traditions in the Babylonian Talmud, same treatise, fol. 54. - -[253] Jewish War, V. 5, Sec. 1. - -[254] Note XI. - -[255] Jewish War, V. 5, Sec. 2. - -[256] Ibid. V. 5, Sec. 8. - -[257] Ant. XV. 11, Sec. 7. - -[258] S. John ii. 20. - -[259] Jewish War, V. 5, Sec. 8. - -[260] Jewish War, V. 11; VI. 1. - -[261] Note XII. - -[262] Jewish War, VI. 6, Sec. 2. - -[263] Ibid. VI. 9, Sec. 1; VII. 1, Sec. 1. - -[264] Note XIII. - -[265] S. Matt. xxiv. 2. - -[266] Note XIV. - -[267] Note XV. - -[268] Note XVI. - -[269] Note XVII. - -[270] Note XVIII. - -[271] Note XIX. - -[272] Note XX. - -[273] Adamn. de Locis Sanctis, Lib. I. c. 1, ap. Acta SS. Ord. Bened. -Tom. III. Part 2, p. 304: "Caeterum in illo famoso loco, ubi quondam -Templum magnifice constructum fuerat, in vicinia muri ab oriente -locatum; nunc Sarraceni quadrangulam orationis domum, quam subrectis -tabulis et magnis trabibus super quasdam ruinarum reliquias construentes -vili fabricati sunt opere, ipsi frequentant; quae utique domus tria -hominum millia simul (ut fertur) capere potest." - -[274] Note XXI. - -[275] William of Tyre, Book I. c. 12. - -[276] Note XXII. - -[277] Note XXIII. - -[278] Note XXIV. - -[279] Note XXV. - -[280] Note XXVI. - -[281] Plate XI. - -[282] S. John v. 2. - -[283] Plate XII. - -[284] Plate XIII. - -[285] Ant. XIII. 11, Sec. 2; Jewish War, I. 3, Sec. 3. - -[286] Note XXVII. - -[287] Page 20. - -[288] Plate XIV. - -[289] Jewish War, V. 4, Sec. 2; 5, Sec. 8. - -[290] Ibid. V. 11, Sec. 4. - -[291] Ibid. V. 5, Sec. 2. - -[292] Ibid. V. 5, Sec. 8. - -[293] Ant. XV. 11, Sec. 7. - -[294] Plate XV. - -[295] Plate XVI. - -[296] See Ch. I. p. 15. - -[297] S. John v. 2-9. - -[298] Plates X., XVIII. - -[299] Plate XVII. - -[300] Note XXVIII. - -[301] Plate X. - -[302] Plate XVIII. - -[303] Note XXIX; Page 7. - -[304] Plate XXIX. See the details of the Golden Gate. - -[305] Plate XXVII. - -[306] Plate XIX. - -[307] Note XXX. - -[308] Plate XX. - -[309] 2 Kings xxii. 14. - -[310] Note XXXI. - -[311] Plate XXI. - -[312] Ant. XV. 8, Sec. 1. - -[313] Ant. XIV. 4, Sec. 2; Jewish War, I. 7, Sec. 2. - -[314] Jewish War, VI. 6, Sec. 2; 8, Sec. 1. - -[315] Page 23. - -[316] Guide d'Orient. Description des Environs du _Haram-es-Sherif_. - -[317] Ant. XV. 11, Sec. 5. - -[318] In my opinion, of the date of Herod. - -[319] Narrative of a Journey round the Dead Sea, Vol. II. pp. 100, 101, -(edited by Count E. de Warren). - -[320] Note XIII. - -[321] Plate LVIII. - -[322] Holy City, Vol. II. pp. 43, 392. Second Edit. - -[323] Note XXXII. - -[324] Plate XI. - -[325] Plate XIV. - -[326] Plate XIX. - -[327] Ant. XV. 11, Sec. 5. - -[328] Ant. XV. 11, Sec. 5. - -[329] Mejir-ed-din, Mines d'Orient, Vol. II. p. 95. - -[330] Plate XXIV. - -[331] De Edific. Justin., Lib. IV. c. 6. - -[332] Note XXXIV. - -[333] Eutychius, Annales, II. 246. Dielal-ed-din. Kemal-ed-din. -Mejir-ed-din. - -[334] The Holy City, Vol. I. p. 318. Second edition. - -[335] Note XXXV. - -[336] Plates XXIII., XXIV. - -[337] See M. de Vogue's work, Les Eglises de la Terre Sainte. - -[338] Plate XI. (Plan). - -[339] A variety of marble, generally of a dark brown colour, full of -fossil shells, exhibiting beautiful iridescent colours, due to the -nacreous matter of the shells; sometimes deep red or orange, when it is -called fire-marble. - -[340] Plate XXIV. - -[341] Plate XXV. - -[342] See details, Plate XXIX. - -[343] Ant. XV. 11, Sec. 5. - -[344] De Aedificiis Justiniani, Lib. V. cap. vi. (Translated in Rev. G. -Williams' Holy City, Vol. II. p. 369). - -[345] Les Eglises de la Terre Sainte, par le Comte Melchior de Vogue, p. -272. He also quotes the Rev. G. Williams in confirmation of his opinion. - -[346] Jewish War, V. 3, Sec. 1. - -[347] Jewish War, VII. 2, Sec. 1. - -[348] Plate XI. - -[349] Plate XXVI. - -[350] Note XXXVI. - -[351] Note XXXVII. - -[352] Plate XXVII. - -[353] Les Eglises de la Terre Sainte. - -[354] Plate XXIX. - -[355] Note XXXVIII. - -[356] Note XXXIX. - -[357] Note XL. - -[358] Note IV. - -[359] Notes XXXIX., XL. - -[360] Note XLI. - -[361] Pages 48, 49, 53, 54. - -[362] Levit. i. 11; Ezek. xl. 35-38. - -[363] See the enclosed space, covered with cross lines, about the Mosque -of Omar, Plate XI. - -[364] Mischna, 2nd part, Treatise _Yoma_, c. 3, Sec. 1. - -[365] Ezek. xl. 39-41. - -[366] Levit. i. 16. - -[367] Jewish War, V. 11, Secs. 4, 5. - -[368] See the Conduits, Plate X. - -[369] See the sections, Plate XII. - -[370] Plate XI. - -[371] Note XLII. - - - - -CHAPTER IV. - - THE CHURCH OF THE RESURRECTION, AND THE HOSPITAL OF S. JOHN, WITH - THEIR ENVIRONS--HISTORY OF THE HOLY SEPULCHRE FROM THE DEATH OF - CHRIST TO THE PRESENT TIME--GENUINENESS OF THE - SEPULCHRE--GOLGOTHA--EXAMINATION OF THE EXTERIOR AND INTERIOR OF - THE CHURCH--RUINS OF THE HOSPITAL. - - -After the publication of the works of the Rev. G. Williams, Professor -Willis, and M. de Vogue, on the Church of the Holy Sepulchre, the fruits -of so much learning and research, it is perhaps rash to undertake to -write upon this subject; still, as I only enter upon its history so far -as it concerns things now to be seen and the explanation of my own -investigations, I venture to apply myself to the task; requesting the -reader, who is desirous of fuller information, to study the works of -these authors[372]. If I may happen to differ from them on any point, I -do not intend to discuss their theories, as that would occupy too much -time, but simply to state my own opinions, which have been formed after -a most careful examination of the place by different means, during a -period of eight years. - -My principal aim is to establish the genuineness of the site now -reverenced as the Sepulchre of Christ, and to point out the position of -Calvary in its neighbourhood; therefore I begin from this point; the -more so, because the identity of the present tomb is disputed, and those -who disbelieve in it lean especially on the assertions, that its -situation with reference to the ancient city disqualifies it; as it is -within the circuit of the walls, instead of without in accordance with -the Jewish law; and that every trace was swept away by the destruction -of the city by Titus, and the alterations of Hadrian; so that the -basilica of Constantine did not cover the real Sepulchre of Christ. We -proceed then to examine the question. - -The place of our Saviour's Passion undoubtedly was outside the city, in -accordance with the Jewish law, as is proved by the words of S. -John[373]: "This title then read many of the Jews: for the place where -Jesus was crucified was nigh to the city." According to the positions -which I have assigned to the walls, Golgotha was at that time without -the city, being very near the second line formed by the walls of Solomon -and Hezekiah; for it must be remembered that the third line was not yet -built, because King Agrippa I. did not arrive at Jerusalem till A.D. 42, -some years after the death of Christ, and the work commenced shortly -afterwards. The fact that a large crowd[374] followed our Saviour also -makes it probable that the place was near the city, for as the next day -was the Sabbath and 'an high day[375],' and as it was about the sixth -hour when He was brought forth to the people[376], and the ninth when He -died[377], they would have had to return home to prepare the Passover, -and not have had time to go any considerable distance. - -It is not indeed in my power to state the exact distance of Golgotha -from the city, but at any rate I am certain that it was far enough off -to comply with the legal requirement, that sepulchres should be 50 -cubits from the outside of the wall[378]. It was very probable that it -would not greatly exceed this distance, as the enraged populace would be -likely to place the cross where those in the city could glut their eyes -with the spectacle. - -In tracing the course I have assigned to the second wall, I sought for -its remains on the spot, being guided by the testimony of Josephus, -without any desire of adapting it to the present position of Calvary; -which indeed (if admitted) is in my favour, as shewing that there were -gardens outside my gate _Gennath_[379], in accordance with the words of -the Evangelist[380], "Now in the place where he was crucified there was -a garden; and in the garden a new sepulchre, wherein was never man yet -laid." Therefore I firmly believe that the body of the Redeemer was laid -in the sepulchre now under the great dome of the Church: but of the -locality assigned to Calvary I will state my opinion presently. - -As, however, there are some who contest this assertion, I must support -it by the aid of history and tradition. It is not probable that either -the Heathens, Jews, or Christians, would lose sight of the Sepulchre of -Jesus; for each, though from very different motives, would have reasons -for remembering the grave of One whose teaching had introduced a new era -into the world, and who had left behind Him such zealous preachers of -His doctrine. Now the body was obtained from Pilate and entombed by -Joseph of Arimathea and Nicodemus, men of note among the Jews, before -the eyes of the women who had followed our Saviour from Galilee[381]. It -is then not likely that this new tomb, belonging to one of them, would -ever be forgotten by any of these persons. We know that the Chief -Priests and Pharisees obtained a guard of soldiers to watch the -tomb[382], who were at the spot when Christ arose[383]. It is then very -improbable that the Sepulchre would be forgotten by that generation. The -number of the disciples augmented so rapidly in a very short time after -the Resurrection, that neither the sect itself, nor the life, history, -teaching, or prophecies of its Founder, could fail to be remembered. We -find it asserted in the Talmud[384], that the sentence against Jesus -Christ was proclaimed during forty days, and all who could bear evidence -in His favour were invited to come forward. If then this story be true, -it shews that the Jews did not deem Him an insignificant person. The -Romans, so much more highly civilized than the Jews, would be alive to -the important effect that the Saviour's teaching was likely to produce -on Paganism, and so would not regard His death and the place connected -with it, without interest. - -But even if the Jews and Gentiles had been slow to recognize the -importance of the new doctrine, surely its disciples would remember, and -at the least regard with affection, the scene of the redemption of the -human race by the death of their Lord and Master. Can we believe that S. -Paul would not have conducted his new converts to this spot on his visit -to Jerusalem; that S. James, first Bishop of Jerusalem, (murdered by the -plots of Ananus[385] A.D. 62,) and S. Peter, would be ignorant of it? -Consequently there can be no doubt that the spot must have been well -known when the Christians, led by Simon their Bishop, retired to -Pella[386], A.D. 66, to escape the troubles that were about to fall on -their doomed city. From A.D. 70 to A.D. 135, the year of Hadrian's -visit, Jerusalem lay in ruins; but still it was not entirely deserted, -since we know that he drove the inhabitants away, to make room for his -colony of Roman veterans[387]. The garrison which Titus had left on Sion -to prevent any attempts at rebuilding the city, would not have -interfered with those who came peaceably to dwell near the ruins of -their Temple, or the scenes hallowed by the Redeemer's Passion. Again, -from S. James, the first Bishop, to the days of Hadrian, and thence to -Constantine, there was an unbroken succession of Bishops of the Holy -City[388]; so that it is impossible that the situation of the Sepulchre -should not have been correctly indicated by tradition to the first -Christian Emperor. Indeed, from the time of Hadrian the place was marked -in a manner that prevented all possibility of mistake, as we know from -the words of Eusebius[389]. "For impious men in former time, or, to -speak more correctly, the whole race of demons working by their hands, -were eagerly desirous of overwhelming in darkness and oblivion that -sacred monument of immortality, to which the angel, flashing forth -light, descended from heaven; and rolled away the stone from the stony -hearts of those who thought that the living (Christ) was still lying -among the dead; bearing good tidings to the women, and rolling away from -their hearts the stone of unbelief in the life of Him Whom they sought. -This Cave of Salvation, then, certain godless and impious men purposed -to destroy utterly, deeming in their folly that they could thus conceal -the truth. So having gathered together from different quarters a great -quantity of earth, they covered up the whole; and then having raised it -on high and heaped it up with stones, they concealed the Divine Cave -under this large mound. Then as if nothing further remained, they in -very truth constructed above the ground a grim sepulchre of souls; -erecting a dark recess of the shades of the dead to the unchaste goddess -Aphrodite.... (The Emperor) inspired by a Divine Spirit, and having -invoked God's help, commanded that place to be cleansed, which had been -pointed out to him; hidden though it was by unclean materials cast upon -it by the plots of enemies; not overlooking it though delivered over to -oblivion and ignorance.... And as soon as the order was given, the works -of deceit were thrown from on high to the ground, and the buildings of -error were pulled down and destroyed, together with their statues and -demons. Nor did the vigour of the Emperor rest here, but he ordered the -materials, wood and stone, to be taken and thrown away as far as -possible from the place." - -From these passages it is evident that the Emperor Constantine found the -true position of the Holy Sepulchre, and erected over it a magnificent -basilica, which is described by the same author[390]. The work was -commenced A.D. 326, and completed A.D. 335. - -The present position of Calvary does not however rest upon the same -indisputable evidence as that of the Sepulchre, as there are no marks of -antiquity nor any other internal evidences to support its claim. The -testimony of the Evangelists proves beyond question that it was near to -the Sepulchre, but gives us no clue to its position relative to that -place, nor tells us whether it was on a plain or a hill, on smooth -ground or on rocky. It seems very probable to me that the Cross would be -erected on a hill, in order to make it as conspicuous an object as -possible. The present Chapel of the Calvary, wherein are shewn the hole -in the rock made for the foot of the Cross, and (at the distance of -three feet towards the south) the fissure caused by the earthquake, are -indeed on higher ground than the Sepulchre; but we must presently -examine whether this elevation is natural or artificial. I will now only -remark that the hole is too small to admit a post large enough to -support the weight of a man, and is perfectly round; though it is very -unlikely that the executioners would have taken the trouble to make the -shape so regular. The holes in which the crosses of the two thieves were -planted are not visible, although the Greek monk in charge of the -Calvary pretends to indicate their position. Abbe Mariti[391], who saw -them before Oct. 12, 1808, writes as follows: "The Arabs call the -penitent thief _Leuss-el-Jemin_, which means the thief on the right -hand; the position of the cross of the impenitent thief is on the left. -If then our Lord was crucified with His face to the north, the other two -crosses would not have been in the same line with His; and the distance -between the holes compels us to suppose that they were placed at right -angles to it." The remark is correct, and I assert, in addition, that -the present Calvary is not large enough for three crosses to stand upon, -being about nine feet wide; therefore I regard the story, at any rate so -far as concerns the two side crosses, as a mere fable. It is impossible -to examine the rock cleft by the earthquake, as it is only visible at -the bottom of an aperture about three inches wide and two feet deep; all -the rest of it being encased in slabs of marble. Its shape therefore -cannot be ascertained, but by examining the place we shall see how far -it extends. It is difficult to say whether the level floor, raised about -two feet above the pavement, on which are pointed out the hole that -supported our Lord's Cross, the positions of those of the two thieves, -and the fissure produced by the earthquake, is one entire block or not. -As the bare rock is only visible at the hole of the Cross and the -fissure, we should suppose that it extended over the whole plateau; but -a close scrutiny gives rise to the suspicion that these blocks have been -brought from some other position and placed here. The platform is only -about nine feet from north to south, and five from east to west, so that -it would not require a large mass. My opinion was confirmed by observing -that two piers are built on the north and south of the platform, and -that on the east there is a wall separating the Golgotha from some of -the rooms of the Greek convent, and on the west the inlaid pavement of -the chapel. This arrangement suggested to me that either the piers and -wall rested upon the rock, or that it was altogether wanting beneath. In -order to determine this point I examined the Chapel of Adam, situated -under the Golgotha, and reached by a descending staircase on the west. -Here it is not difficult to ascertain that the aforesaid piers and wall -go down below the level of the floor, and that the vaulting is entirely -constructed with masonry. The fissured rock, seen from above, is in the -east wall; it is protected by a strong iron grating, which renders it -impossible to see whether it goes down to the level of the floor, or how -far it extends to the north and south. This however may be inferred -without difficulty, for on the south there is a wall, and beyond that an -apartment belonging to the Greeks, and on the north, another wall, and -then the open space inside the Church of the Holy Sepulchre. On the west -is the stone pavement below the wall supporting the grating, which is -3-1/2 feet above the floor. The rock is therefore concealed, but so far -as we can see, it does not appear to descend to the floor. Hence the -only direction in which it could extend is the east; but here, on the -other side of the rock, which cannot be more than 5 feet thick, is a -wall separating it from an ancient staircase, belonging to the Greeks, -leading to Calvary. It seems then very improbable that after levelling -all around so completely, they would have left, to exhibit the mark of -the Cross, a fragment of rock which could not stand without the support -of walls. I cannot believe this, and am therefore compelled to suppose -that the rock is only a piece of the true Golgotha, brought and placed -here for the veneration of the faithful, no doubt at the time of -Constantine. A farther proof that this block is not in its natural -position, but has been brought from another place, is that its mineral -character differs from that of the native rock, preserved in its -original roughness in the remains of an ancient cistern in the Chapel of -the Invention of the Cross, a little to the east of Golgotha. - -Far better would it have been had S. Helena and Constantine left the -Sepulchre and Golgotha as they discovered them. Far more strongly would -the rough rock and the unaltered scenes have spoken to the heart, than -all the ornaments they lavished upon it, and those which now load and -disfigure it! From a mistaken notion of reverence they wished to adapt -the ground to the basilica, and not the basilica to the ground; thus -laying the foundation of all the doubts and contests that have since -arisen. - -For my own part I am inclined to think that Golgotha was on the west of -the Sepulchre, because we still see, at a little distance in that -direction, some elevated rock in the Syrian chapel, whence it gradually -rises westward up to the Christian bazaar, presenting the same mineral -(calcareous) character as the block on Calvary. If it were in this -direction, it would not only comply with the data of the Bible, and be -more than fifty cubits from the walls, but also be on high ground, so -that the execution could be seen from a large part of the city; whereas -the present site is too near the wall and is in a low situation, so that -even though we allow that the ground may now be somewhat lower than it -used to be, it would be visible to a very small portion of the city. As -there were no strong natural features to mark the spot, and as this side -has frequently been devastated during the sieges of Jerusalem, one place -may easily have been mistaken for another in the same neighbourhood, so -that the tradition on this point is of little value. Therefore, although -I do not positively assert that the present position of Golgotha is not -the true one, I think that the evidence of the place itself is not -sufficient to render its identity unquestionable. - -Let us now resume the history of the Sepulchre. Chosroes II., king of -Persia, A.D. 614, completely destroyed the magnificent buildings erected -by Constantine, took captive the Patriarch, and carried off the wood of -the Cross (kept as a relic at Calvary); but through the intercession of -the conqueror's wife, a Christian and sister of Maurice, Emperor of the -East, the faithful were allowed to rebuild the holy places. A monk, -named Modestus, successor of the Patriarch Zacharias, was enabled, by -the assistance of the Emperor Heraclius and John the Almsgiver, -Patriarch of Alexandria, to erect again four churches in less than -fifteen years; but they were much inferior to the originals. During this -period Heraclius conquered the Persians, recovered the Cross, and -replaced it in Calvary with his own hands. More than one description of -the sanctuaries built by Modestus has come down to us; the most -interesting is that of Arculf, who visited them; they were called the -Church of the Resurrection, the Church of Calvary, the Church of the -Invention of the Cross, and the Church of the Virgin[392]. These were -respected by the Khalif Omar, A.D. 636, but, according to the Mohammedan -chronicles, the conqueror took possession of the columns and other -marble ornaments which were lying about in the ruins of Constantine's -magnificent buildings, and ordered them to be worked into his new mosque -_es-Sakharah_. He granted freedom of worship to the Christians, and his -example was followed, if not surpassed, by Harun er-Rashid alone (A.D. -786-809), after whose death they suffered many persecutions; and their -churches, especially that of the Resurrection, were plundered and -greatly injured. The dome of that church was repaired by the Patriarch -Thomas, in the reign of El-Mamun, with timber brought from Cyprus[393]. -Hakem Biamr-Illah, Fatimite Sovereign of Egypt and Syria, ascended the -throne A.D. 996, and began an incessant persecution against the -Christians. In the year 1010 he ordered the total destruction of the -churches of Jerusalem. His barbarous decree was executed, and all the -buildings erected by the Patriarch Modestus were ravaged and burnt[394]. -A second time the persecution was arrested by a woman, Mary, the mother -of Hakem, who obtained permission to rebuild the churches in the same -year that they were destroyed. The work was commenced, but proceeded -slowly for the want of funds; for when Daker or Daber, successor of -Hakem (through the influence of Romanus Argirius), ordered that the -injuries done to Jerusalem should be repaired, and that the wall should -be restored by the inhabitants at their own expense; and assigned one -quarter of the expense to be borne by the Christians, they were so -heavily burdened by this additional demand, that the works at the -churches were interrupted. It was not till A.D. 1048 that, with the help -afforded by Constantine Monomachus, the sanctuaries were completed -according to the plans of Modestus, in the reign of the Egyptian Khalif -Maabad-Abutamin Mustansir-Billa. They are described by Saewulf, who -visited Jerusalem during the years A.D. 1102 and 1103[395]. - -The numerous pilgrimages, which were made annually to the Holy Sepulchre -after A.D. 1048, kindled a wide-spread enthusiasm in Europe and a strong -excitement against the Mohammedans, who had made themselves masters of -the Christian Holy Places. These found their vent in the Crusades, and -the soldiers of the Cross, who took possession of Jerusalem, acquired -the sanctuaries in the condition in which they had been left by -Constantine Monomachus; and it was not till A.D. 1130 that they united -them under one roof, nearly as they are at the present time[396]. The -Church of the Holy Sepulchre was not altered by Saladin on his regaining -the city, A.D. 1187. It was polluted and injured by the wild tribes, -especially by the Kharismian hordes, A.D. 1244; but in 1555 when Father -Bonifacius of Ragusa was Guardian of the Holy Land, the whole building -was repaired and the great dome restored at the expense of Philip II., -King of Spain; as appears from the testimony of some valuable documents -preserved by the Commissary General of Madrid and the convent of S. -Saviour at Jerusalem. About the year A.D. 1607, Sultan Ahmet I. ordered -the whole church to be destroyed, and a mosque erected on its -foundations, by a decree inflicting the punishment of death upon all who -attempted to prevent its execution. One man alone had the courage to -raise his voice against it, Girolamo Capello, Venetian Ambassador at -Constantinople, whose nation, from its powerful navy, was more highly -respected by the Sultan than any other. By his firmness and energy, he -got the order revoked, and the punishment denounced against all who -tried to carry it into effect, or inquire into the reason of its -revocation. About a century later the great dome was again restored by -help of contributions from Spain. The cost would appear incredible, if -it were not established by authentic documents, and the chronicles of -the Holy Land, still preserved in the convent of S. Saviour at -Jerusalem. These state that, in order to obtain a firman from the Porte -(which was opposed and retarded during 21 years by the Greeks, who hoped -to procure it for themselves), and to complete the restoration 400,000 -colonnati (about L92,000) were expended. - -A firman was obtained from the Porte, A.D. 1757, by the Greeks, -excluding the Latins, partly or wholly, from some of the sanctuaries, -including even the Holy Sepulchre, which was sold to the Greeks by the -Grand Vizier Regib Pasha. France had already proclaimed her intention of -protecting her Church in the East, and the Chevalier de Vergennes was -charged with maintaining the rights of the Latins at Constantinople; -but, notwithstanding, the places then lost were never wholly recovered. -On the 12th October, 1808, a great part of the church was consumed by a -terrible fire, caused by the Armenians; and the Greeks obtained -permission from the Porte to repair the damage. An ignorant architect, -who has had the audacity to record his name, which however I will not -help to perpetuate, completed the work of destruction, by pulling down, -or covering up, the interesting remnants of Byzantine and Gothic -architecture, which the flames had spared. The tombs of the Latin Kings -of Jerusalem (of which I will speak presently) were demolished by the -Greeks on this occasion; who however try to make us believe that they -were destroyed by the fire. - -I conclude this sketch of the history of the building, by stating that -the great dome is in danger of falling in[397]. Year by year it becomes -more and more dilapidated, and the large holes in it, caused by the want -of a covering of lead[398], admit the wind and the rain, so that the -floor below is sometimes flooded to a depth of five or six inches (as -happened in 1857 and 1860), causing so much annoyance to the Priests, -that the services have to be performed under umbrellas, and rendering it -impossible for the congregation to remain without injury to their -health. It has long been hoped that France, the official protector of -the place, would put a stop to these trials, and undertake the work of -repair: and in 1862, France, Russia, and the Porte, came to an -agreement, and the works appeared to be on the point of commencing, as -the architects of the three nations at Jerusalem had consulted together; -but some disputes on the question of ownership arose between the Greeks -and Latins, and the whole matter has been adjourned. While the question -is slowly dragging on at Constantinople, it is far from improbable that -the dome will fall, and it will be a very fortunate thing if this happen -without loss of life. - -I will now accompany the reader round the outside and inside of the -church, and point out and remark upon the chief objects of interest -connected with the building; referring him to the Plans and their -description for those of less importance[399]. - -Before the facade of the church is an oblong open court[400] paved with -large slabs of Palestine breccia, which are all cracked, apparently by -the action of fire; no improbable cause, when we remember how many -Christians have suffered martyrdom by burning on this spot[401]. On the -south side is a number of bases of columns arranged symmetrically, -shewing that an arcade, if not a porch, formerly stood here. A flight of -three steps leads down from these, and the rest of the area is -perceptibly lower than the ground on the south, west, and north, and -very slightly than that on the east. I remark this to shew, that as the -place is in a hollow, it might have been used for a garden, but not for -public executions. Below the pavement is the rock, which lies at the -same level under the interior of the church, and under the floors of the -buildings on each side, east and west. The cistern at the south-east -corner of the place is a stronger proof that it was not used for -executions. The court is bounded on the west side by the chapels -belonging to the Greek convent of S. Constantine; and at the north-west -corner is the bell-tower, erected between the years A.D. 1160 and A.D. -1180, and mutilated A.D. 1187 by the loss of the lantern which -originally surmounted it. The Greeks have made rooms in it, which are -now occupied by the monks[402]. On the east side is the Greek convent of -S. Abraham; on the ground-floor of which are two chapels, one belonging -to the Armenians and the other to the Abyssinians: through the latter -the roof of the chapel of S. Helena, on the east, can be reached. Inside -the convent of S. Abraham the Greeks point out to the credulous the spot -where Melchizedek planted the first olive; on which one of those trees -is still growing. They also shew the spot where he made the first bread, -and that on which Abraham offered up his son Isaac. - -The architecture of the south facade of the church belongs to the -twelfth century, and the work was evidently left unfinished. From what -remains it is difficult to deduce the architect's original plan. The -position of the bell-tower might lead us to suppose that there would be -another corresponding with it on the opposite (eastern) side; but then -the Chapel of the Agony, with its precious contents, would be covered -over, together with the part below the Golgotha, which must of necessity -have been mutilated, if, as would seem probable, other doors had been -made into the church. Let us however examine the building which is still -left to us. On the level of the ground are two doorways, and above them -two windows with arches similarly pointed[403]. The arches of the -doorways are composed of three archivolts finely carved, which spring -from three columns of verd antique, placed in the re-entering angles of -the piers of each door[404]. The capitals of these columns, which are -skilfully executed, are a Byzantine imitation of the Corinthian order. -The design of the cornice running along the top of the whole facade is -also ancient. The bas-reliefs on the lintels of the tympana of the two -doors are too well wrought to be the work of the twelfth century. The -profiles of the figures on that above the western door are admirably -executed, as well as their attitudes; they represent several scenes from -the Gospels, as the entry into Jerusalem, the raising of Lazarus, and -the Last Supper. The outlines of the leaves, flowers, fruit, birds, and -men, on the other, are exquisite. The eastern doorway is built up; the -other is the only entrance into the church, and consequently accidents -frequently happen there during the Easter season[405]. - -By the side of the closed doorway is a staircase leading into the Chapel -of the Agony, which is a square in plan, and is built against the south -wall of the Calvary, communicating with that sanctuary by means of a -window which has replaced an ancient door. This chapel was formerly a -small ornamental terrace-roof, which served as an antechamber to the -Calvary. Tradition asserts that the Emperor Heraclius brought back the -true Cross into the church through this entrance. The Latins believe -that the Virgin Mary remained upon this spot during the Passion of her -Son whence its name is derived. The Greeks call it the Throne of S. -Helena, but cannot give any reason for doing so. The rock does not lie -immediately underneath this chapel, but there is a small oratory, -dedicated to S. Mary of Egypt, which proves that the rock is not met -with in any place round the present Calvary, but only on its summit. In -the lower cornice of the Chapel of the Agony, towards the entrance to -the oratory, is a carving of two four-footed animals (ideal monsters), -which, in my opinion, is a _chef d'oeuvre_, and, like all the other -ornaments on the outside of this chapel, well worth notice. - -Besides the two doors in the above facade, the church had another on the -west opening into Patriarch Street (the Christian bazaar). This, owing -to the difference in level, gave access to the lower gallery of the -great rotunda; it is now closed up. It is first mentioned by Edrisi, -A.D. 1154, that is, some years after the choir had been finished by the -Crusaders[406]. There is no doubt that it was made between the years -A.D. 1140 and A.D. 1150. It is ornamented by two columns with capitals, -from which springs a pointed arch closely resembling those in the south -facade[407]. There appears to have been another entrance from the -terrace of the Abyssinians on the east side, because a doorway can be -seen there, apparently of the time of the Crusades, which is now built -up. - -I may also remark that the terrace-roofs over the church are divided (as -is shewn by the Plan) between the Greeks and the Mohammedans, and that -the latter have the right of entering the gallery under the dome in the -great rotunda. The Latins are now anxious to close the door -communicating with the roof, but the Greeks are unwilling to allow it. -Hence have arisen disputes that will greatly retard the repair of the -dome, which at one time seemed likely to be commenced without delay. -Most certainly the terrace-roofs of the church ought not to be private -property, but should wholly belong to the edifice; and when this change -is brought about, which will not be done without much difficulty and -great firmness, there will be fewer dissensions, and the church will not -be allowed to fall to ruin. But it is now time to take my reader within -the building. - -On entering the church we see on the left side of the door a chamber -constructed of masonry, which is used as a _divan_ by the Mohammedan -guard, placed there to keep the keys and put down any tumults that may -arise in the building. The presence of these men not unfrequently hurts -the feelings of the Christian pilgrim, who is indignant at finding -Mohammedans in possession of the Holy Sepulchre, and is the more -offended by seeing them sitting there at their ease, gossiping, smoking, -and drinking the coffee supplied to them by the various religious -communities occupying the church. To the stranger, who is unacquainted -with the real state of affairs, it must, I allow, appear most unseemly; -but a longer residence in the country would shew him that it is in -reality wisely ordered, because these men do not enter into the disputes -which so frequently arise between the different sects of Christians, and -thus are able to appease strifes, and act with a moderation and -forbearance, which would be impossible to any member of the contending -parties. Indeed, there is much need of these at the Easter season, when -the pilgrims are thronging to or from the different services. Formerly -these guards demanded a considerable fee for admission into the -Sepulchre; and not only the religious communities resident in the city, -but also strangers who came to visit the Holy Places, were obliged to -pay a certain sum. The whole of the money thus received was applied to -the support of the poor in the Hospital of S. Helena (of which I shall -presently speak). The charge is however no longer made, but they are -glad to receive a small present from any one who enters the church at an -unusual time. This they never refuse, provided they can obtain the -consent of one of the religious communities on the spot. - -On the right of the entrance is a staircase leading up to the Calvary, -built against the door which is walled up from the outside: it belongs -to the Latins, but they have no power to prevent any one from using it. - -A little further on is the entrance of the so-called Chapel of Adam -(belonging to the Greeks), which, as I have already said, is situated -under the north wing of the Calvary, and shews, at its east end, the -fissure in the rock rent at our Saviour's death. Zuallardus, who visited -Jerusalem A.D. 1586, states that this place was dedicated to S. John, -but no one at the present day knows when the change was made. An altar, -built of masonry, stands in the middle of the chamber at the east end. -On its south side is a small hole, into which the pilgrim inserts his -hand to touch the rock enclosing the skull of Adam, while a Greek monk -relates to him that it was brought there by Noah, before the Flood -began. The whole chamber is worth notice, because before the -conflagration of 1808 it contained the tombs, which covered the dust of -Godfrey of Bouillon and his brother Baldwin[408]. These monuments were -removed by the Greeks, with the intention of destroying a conspicuous -and obvious proof that the Sepulchre had once belonged to the Latins -alone. The remains of the Latin kings however were not profaned, but -were deposited, (as I was informed,) in a recess in the chamber on the -south of the chapel under the south wing of the Calvary, where now the -Greek guardian of the Sepulchre sits to receive the offerings of the -pilgrims, and present them in return with trifles blessed within the -walls of the Sanctuary. It is to be hoped that when Russia and France -have completed the restoration of the dome, the Greeks will bring them -forth from their hiding-place, and erect over them new monuments bearing -the old inscriptions. - -On quitting the Chapel of Adam we find, at a short distance, a slab -rising about six inches above the ground, called the Stone of Unction, -because it is believed that on it the body of our Saviour was wrapt up -with spices for burial. According to the monks, the actual stone cannot -be seen, as it has been covered up to preserve it from the pilgrims, who -would have carried it away piecemeal for relics. The account is -plausible; but it is hard to understand how the spot could have been -identified after the great changes wrought by the savage vandalism of -Hadrian. Sanutus[409], who wrote in the fourteenth century, mentions -this stone, but places it in the middle of the choir belonging to the -Greeks. It is the joint property of the Latins, Greeks, and Armenians, -who keep lamps and tapers constantly burning, that bear the devices of -the community to which they belong. - -Passing over some unimportant objects, which are sufficiently described -by their titles on the Plan, we enter the western part of the church, in -which is the rotunda supporting the great dome[410]. This, as I have -already said, is an example of the usual bad taste of the Greeks at -Jerusalem. Its heavy and clumsy architectural features are not worth a -description, and it is to be hoped that at the next restoration of the -church, this structure will be replaced by one more worthy to cover the -Holy Sepulchre. On the ground-floor of the rotunda are some chambers -occupied by the monks of the different communities to which they belong, -together with three passages leading up to the lower gallery, and -another going to the so-called tombs of Joseph and Nicodemus. The two -galleries above are divided among the different religious communities. -The whole of the lower one, except the three central arches on the west, -belongs to the Greeks, and the greater part of the upper to the Latins; -the Armenians possessing the last six arches towards the east on the -south side. The property of each party is marked by pictures attached to -the pillars. Above the upper gallery are windows, some grated, the rest -built up. The former look upon the terrace-roof, which belongs to the -Greeks, and are employed by them; the latter used to communicate with a -chamber in the building called the Hospice of Saladin; these were closed -not many years ago. The dome is surrounded by a gallery belonging, as I -have said, to the Greeks, and at the top, in the middle, is a circular -opening enclosed by an iron grating, to prevent the Mohammedans who -occupy the neighbouring houses from throwing anything into the building. -However, the miracle-mongers relate that Jesus Christ was recalled to -life from this place, and that no human power can ever close it up. -Certain it is, that if the architect at the forthcoming restoration does -not find some other means of admitting air and light into the dome, (no -difficult task,) he will be obliged to leave an opening there, at any -rate not less than the present; and the rain will continue to flood the -pavement below, and injure the health of the Priests and acolytes who -pass their time there. In the middle of the rotunda is the monument of -the Holy Sepulchre[411], also an ugly Greek edifice of the date 1810. It -is cased with Palestine breccia of a yellowish and reddish colour, which -is found abundantly in the neighbourhood of Jerusalem; it takes as good -a polish and produces the same effect as marble. A small rude chapel, -belonging to the Abyssinians, rests against the west end of the -building; it was erected between the years 1537 and 1540, when the -Franciscan fathers, then the sole guardians of the Sanctuary, were -prisoners at Damascus. At the east ends of the north and south walls of -the monument are two oval openings; these are chiefly used in -distributing the Holy Fire on Easter Eve; that famous and scandalous -ceremony by which the Greeks and Armenians profane the Redeemer's Tomb. -The upper part of the monument is a flat terrace-roof, and at the west -end of it is a small tasteless dome, covering an opening that -communicates with the lower chamber of the Sepulchre; this, as well as -the other at the east end, has doubtless been made for ventilation and -for the escape of the smoke from the lamps and tapers, which are kept -constantly burning within: but, as every object in the church must have -its legend, the monks relate that from the first Christ was raised, and -by the second the angel departed, who had rolled away the stone from the -Sepulchre. Round the terrace-roof are holes, by which the rain, falling -from the opening above, runs off by drains into a cistern inside the -Latin convent, to the north of the rotunda. Before the door are a number -of standards for candles, belonging to the Latins, Greeks, and -Armenians. In the upper part of the front at the centre, is a picture -belonging to the Latins, who, as first, have the right of performing -service inside the Tomb. The Greeks, as second, are on the right, and -the Armenians on the left. On great solemnities the different -communities adorn the space allotted to them with gold and silver lamps -and flowers, so as nearly to cover the whole facade. A large awning is -extended over the building, and whenever a new one is necessary, as was -the case in 1859, these three communities share the cost and divide the -old one. With their portions the Greeks and Armenians recover the -greater part of their contributions from the Oriental pilgrims, who are -most anxious to possess a scrap. - -We will now proceed to examine the interior of the Sepulchre. Directly -on entering the door we see on either hand two staircases, constructed -in the thickness of the east and side walls, and leading to the -terrace-roof. That on the north belongs solely to the Latins; the other -to the Greeks, who however are bound to allow the Armenians to use it on -certain occasions. Within are two chambers; the eastern is called the -Chapel of the Angel, the western is the actual Tomb in which our Lord's -body was laid. The former of these two is undoubtedly built upon the -rock, which I saw and touched immediately under the marble pavement, -when some slight repairs were being made. Its walls, where they can be -seen in the side staircases and the two apertures mentioned above, are -of masonry, but the other parts are concealed by a casing of slabs of -Palestine breccia. In the middle of this outer chamber is a small -pedestal, which (according to tradition) marks the spot where the angel -sat after rolling away the stone from the Sepulchre[412]. In the -building are a great number of lamps, supplied by the Latins, the -Greeks, and the Armenians; two only belong to the Copts. The upper part -of the walls of the Tomb itself is also masonry, but the lower is formed -by the native rock. I have been able to ascertain this for myself at two -points; one at the small entrance-door, which is entirely hewn in the -rock, and the other in the interior of the Chapel of the Abyssinians, in -which, after purchasing the privilege, I was on several occasions shut -up, so that I worked undisturbed, and was able to see the rock at a -height of about four feet above the ground. As the interior of the -building is covered with slabs of marble, it is at the present time -quite impossible to succeed in discovering the rock from within; and I -did not attempt it, being satisfied of its existence by the testimony of -most trustworthy witnesses who had seen it during the repairs in 1808 -and 1810. One of these was the Franciscan father Tryphon, who died at -Jerusalem in 1857, at the age of 86; another was an aged Greek monk, an -Archimandrite, of the great convent of S. Constantine. From the -information supplied by them, and from my own observations, I have drawn -the line of the rock in the section-plan of the present tomb. In -confirmation of the accuracy of my informants, themselves men of -education, I can bring forward the following extracts from the accounts -of various authors and pilgrims in former times. Arculf[413], who saw it -in the seventh century, thus describes it: "It was a small round room, -hewn out of the solid rock, which could contain nine men standing in -prayer side by side. The roof was about a foot and a half above the -head of a tall man; on the east side was a small door. The tomb, -properly speaking, was hewn in the north wall of the room. It was formed -by a bed seven feet long, large enough to hold a man stretched upon his -back, placed under a low recess hewn in the rock. It might be termed a -sarcophagus open on one side, or a small grotto with the opening to the -south; the lower edge of the bed was three palms above the ground. The -rock was red veined with white, and still bore the marks of the tools by -which it had been hewn out." From the numerous notices of it during the -twelfth and thirteenth centuries, I select that of Willibrand of -Oldenburg[414]. "The rock ... which, still uninjured, and cased with -marble, is exposed in three places to the touch and kisses of pilgrims." -It was visited during the fifteenth century by Breydenbach, who writes -as follows[415]: "The cave, in which is the Lord's Sepulchre, is wholly -cased with marble on the outside, but inside is the native rock, just as -it was at the time of the burial." In the beginning of the present -century it was seen by Abbe Mariti, before the fire of 1808; his -account[416] agrees with those just quoted, and confirms the testimony -given me by eye-witnesses. - -It seems then impossible to deny that the Tomb of Christ still exists -upon the traditionary site, and that it in all respects resembles one of -those sepulchral chambers, hewn in the rock, which can be seen at the -present day in the neighbourhood of Jerusalem[417]; in which the corpse -is extended upon a shelf, under an arched niche, excavated in one of the -side walls of the tomb, some little distance above the ground. The arch -above the shelf is indeed no longer to be seen, because it has been -destroyed, perhaps during Hakem's reign: but the two side walls, which -supported it at the head and foot of the shelf, still remain, and, -encased with white marble, form the altar at which the Priests celebrate -mass. It would be more satisfactory to the incredulous if this covering -were removed, but if this were done the rock itself would not long -remain. Each traveller and pilgrim would practise every possible device -in order to obtain a fragment as a relic; and it would be a hard matter -to persuade the Eastern pilgrims, and above all others, the Americans, -to keep their hands off it. - -But still, although the rock is concealed, a strong proof of the -existence of a tomb is afforded by the shape of the entrance, which has -every appearance of the doorway of a sepulchral chamber, and closely -corresponds with that leading to the Tombs of the Kings, which was -closed with a large elliptical stone, still to be seen on the spot[418]. -I consider however that its height has been since increased, in order to -make a more convenient entrance; because it is now higher on the east -than on the west, while in all the ancient sepulchres still existing the -interior is higher than the exterior. We may then observe with what -rigorous exactness the words of the Evangelists are verified by the -appearance of the Tomb. S. Matthew[419] relates that an angel "_rolled_ -back the stone from the door," using the precise word which would -express the way in which the stone now at the Tombs of the Kings would -have to be handled. S. Mark[420] relates that when Mary Magdalene and -Mary the mother of James were on their way to the Sepulchre to embalm -the Lord's body, they asked among themselves, "Who shall _roll us away_ -the stone from the door of the Sepulchre?" and that, "when they looked, -they saw that the stone was rolled away, _for it was very great_; and -entering into the Sepulchre they saw a young man _sitting on the right -side_," who shewed them the place where Jesus of Nazareth had been laid. -The stone certainly would be _very great_, if it resembled that at the -Tombs of the Kings; and without entering the sepulchral chamber they -would be unable to see the angel and the place where the Lord had been -laid, (on the _right_ side of the Sepulchre where it is now shewn,) both -by reason of the thickness of the wall, in which the doorway was made, -and because the niche was rather on one side of it. S. Luke[421] also -speaks of the rolling away of the stone, and the necessity of entering -the chamber before they could see that the Lord's body was not there. S. -John[422] also mentions that the stone was removed, and describes the -manner in which S. Peter and the other disciple looked into and entered -the Sepulchre; just as would still have to be done, if the door had not -been enlarged. Had not a pious vandalism been allowed to work its will -from the age of Constantine to the present day, no one would be able to -deny the existence of the Sepulchre; for all objections would be met by -the presence of the outer chamber, which was also excavated in the rock, -as in many examples still remaining in the neighbourhood of the city: -but unhappily those parts of it which had escaped the injuries done by -Hadrian, were completely swept away at the time when the first basilica -was built, in order to isolate the Tomb itself, and exhibit it as an -object of veneration in the centre of the rotunda. This can be inferred -from the words of Eusebius[423]: "Is it not surprising to see this rock -standing alone in the centre of a level space, with a cavern inside it?" -S. Cyril, in the fourth century, writes more expressly; "For 'the cleft -of the rock' he calls the cleft which was then at the door of the -Salutary Sepulchre, and was hewn out of the rock itself, as it is -customary here in the front of sepulchres. For now it appears not, the -outer case having been hewn away for the sake of the present adornment; -for before the Sepulchre was decorated by royal zeal there was a cave in -the face of the rock[424]." Therefore, from the above evidence, we may -draw the following conclusions: that an ancient Jewish sepulchre exists -at this place, that over it Hadrian erected a temple to Venus, and that -consequently this is the identical tomb in which the body of our -Redeemer was laid. - -Within the Sepulchre itself, above the shelf, are three paintings; that -in the centre belongs to the Latins, that on the right to the Greeks, -and that on the left to the Armenians. In front of these the three -communities place a certain number of tapers, vases of flowers, crosses, -and other objects; and when they differ about the arrangement of these -things, or of the numerous lamps which hang in the middle of the vault, -that is to say, whenever one of the parties transgresses in the -slightest degree the limit assigned to it by the Sultan's firman, or the -agreements between the Convents, a quarrel soon breaks out; clamour, -yells, and threats, are heard in the Sanctuary itself; and the -combatants sometimes do not separate without broken bones. These scenes, -however, are now becoming more unfrequent. - -In the middle of the west side of the rotunda is the entrance of a -chapel belonging to the Syrians, and through the south wall of this we -pass into a small grotto, hewn in the rock, in which are some tombs said -to have been made by Joseph of Arimathea, after he had given up his own; -in these he and Nicodemus are said to have been buried. On the truth of -the tradition I express no opinion; but certainly the existence of the -rock above the level of the ground, and still more the presence of the -tombs, is a strong proof of the genuineness of the Holy Sepulchre. Both -here[425], and in the neighbouring chapel, the rock on rising from the -floor mounts towards the west; thus indicating the lower level of the -excavations round the Sepulchre. The tombs shew that the place must have -been outside the walls before Agrippa traced out his new line on the -north, because, as I have already observed, the Jewish law did not allow -them to be among dwelling-houses. The antiquity of these tombs is placed -beyond question by their shape, and by the marks left by the tools of -the workmen who excavated them, which perfectly correspond with those -that may still be examined in the numerous burying-places in the -neighbourhood of Jerusalem. I must not omit to mention that two of the -above-named tombs are very small; these have been begun, and left -unfinished before reaching their full size; and any one who will take -the trouble to visit the Tombs of the Judges[426] will see that they -were excavated and completed in the same manner as these so-called -Sepulchres of Joseph and Nicodemus, and that the same kind of -instruments were used, of which I shall presently speak more -particularly. I mention the Tombs of the Judges, because sepulchres may -there be seen in different stages, finished and unfinished, of which -there is no other example near Jerusalem. - -To the east of the rotunda is the Chapel of the Greeks[427], forming the -great nave of the church, in which the rock is found immediately below -the marble pavement. Its most remarkable feature is its regularity and -uniformity. On the east is the Iconostasis, dividing the 'Holy of -Holies' from the rest of the church. This, together with the side walls, -is profusely gilded and covered with pictures and other ornaments, -producing at first a striking effect, which however is soon effaced by -the bad taste, evident not only in them, but also in the two Patriarchal -thrones made of Palestine breccia. Above the choir rises a dome -supported by four massive piers; a rude iron gallery runs round the -drum, and it is lighted by four windows on the level of the Greeks' -terrace-roof. The exterior of the drum is crowned by a cornice, -apparently supported by little corbels ornamented with various incised -carvings, for which many have sought symbolical interpretations; but, in -reality, they are only fanciful Graeco-Saracenic decorations. All the -outer surface of the dome is covered with strong plaster to render it -weather-proof; and a small spiral staircase winds outside to the summit, -whence a fine panoramic view may be obtained, which gives the visitor a -good idea of the topography of the ancient city. Inside the church a -small pedestal rises from the middle of the pavement containing a stone -ball encircled by crossing hoops, which is believed by the Eastern -Christians to be the centre of the world. The idea that Jerusalem was at -the centre of the universe has long prevailed among both Jews and -Christians, founded, perhaps, on the words of Ezekiel[428], "Thus saith -the Lord God, This is Jerusalem: I have set it in the midst of the -nations and countries that are round about her." It is alluded to by -Dante[429]: - - Now that horizon had the sun attained, - By the high point of whose meridian clear - Jerusalem with golden light is stained. - -The Greeks, undoubtedly, placed the pedestal to mark the centre of the -Church of the Resurrection. - -Returning into the rotunda, and going out of it towards the north, we -find the Latin Chapel, at the place where our Lord is said to have -appeared to Mary after his Resurrection. It stands above the general -level of the church; and the rock is found below its pavement, extending -northward under the Latin Convent, where it rises toward the west; so -that if the buildings were removed, it would be seen united to that at -the tombs of Joseph and Nicodemus; thus affording another proof of the -levelling made around the Sepulchre by Constantine. Inside the chapel an -altar is pointed out, containing a fragment of the column, to which, -according to tradition, our Lord was bound when He was scourged. By a -door on the north we enter the Convent of the Franciscans, the guardians -of the Holy Places. It can accommodate twelve monks and some pilgrims; -but is unhealthy, being damp and ill ventilated. - -Leaving this chapel, and passing along the north aisle of the church, we -find on the east, behind the Greek Church, a staircase leading down into -the Chapel of S. Helena[430], belonging to the Armenians, the south side -of which is partly formed by the rock. From the middle of it rises a -dome, supported by four columns (of Egyptian granite) with Byzantine -capitals[431], and surrounded by a terrace-roof occupied by the huts of -the Abyssinians. Near the north-east corner of the chapel is a wooden -altar, concealing a doorway, now built up; it communicated with a -building called the Prince's House, which I shall presently notice. In -the south-east corner is a kind of little balcony (erected by the -Armenians in the 17th century), where, according to a false tradition, -S. Helena stood while the workmen were seeking for the cross in the -neighbouring cistern. This chapel was united to the main building by the -Crusaders. In the south wall is a staircase, the steps of which are hewn -out of the rock, though they are now covered up with stone slabs; it -leads into a vault in which the Saviour's cross is believed to have been -found, together with those of the two thieves, after lying hid there for -293 years. The legend is strongly supported by very ancient Eastern -traditions. The interior, entirely excavated in the solid rock, -corresponds in form with the cisterns so abundant in Jerusalem, and the -holes still remain by which the water entered or was drawn out. The rock -is a soft limestone, and differs from the fragment on the top of -Golgotha; therefore I am inclined to believe that there is no connexion -between the latter and this in the Chapel of the Invention of the Cross. - -The rough rock in this chamber, untouched and unaltered, appeals to my -heart at least, far more than all the other places, buried as they are -beneath marble and decorations; and I cannot but think that it would be -a noble work to sweep away all obstructions in the present Church of the -Holy Sepulchre, to clear the ground, and again expose the bare rock over -the whole area; and, defending the Sepulchre itself against the elements -with a dome, to enclose the whole with a cloister in a solemn and -appropriate style of architecture. If this were done, the original -appearance of the ground would be in some measure restored, and the -Golgotha and the Sepulchre, the true trophies of Christianity, would be -visible to all; unbelievers would be convinced by the evidence of their -senses; and while all would be obliged to admit the genuineness of the -sites, each one would be free to meditate in his own way upon the -teachings of the very place consecrated by the Passion, Death, and -Resurrection of his Redeemer. Will this hope ever be realized? Never, I -fear; for then the present Church would cease to be the source of a -large revenue, derived from the purses of ignorant and credulous -pilgrims, who pay to obtain a blessing, or to secure a place at the -distribution of the Holy Fire, or at some other ceremony, or to pass a -night in the Sanctuary[432]. - -I now pause to consider and describe, more fully than I have hitherto -done, the present appearance of the Calvary. The Golgotha is a platform -supported by vaulted arches of masonry, reached by two flights of steps, -one close to the entrance of the church, the other near the Stone of -Unction. The latter belongs to the Greeks, but they allow it to be open -to all. The whole area is divided into two chapels, north and south: in -the former, called 'The Adoration of the Cross,' is the place where the -cross was erected (as I have already said); it belongs to the Greeks; -the latter, belonging to the Latins, is called the Chapel of the -Crucifixion, because it is generally believed that on that spot the -Saviour was nailed to the cross. In this the altar is well worth notice, -as it is ornamented with a casing of bronze, on which are sculptured in -bas-relief eight different scenes from the Passion of our Saviour. Its -original shape has been altered, though without injury to the general -effect, for it was made four-sided, as it was intended to be placed as a -kind of fence round the Stone of Unction; but the Greeks would not allow -anything belonging to the Latins to be used in their possessions, lest -it should give their rivals a footing there. It is therefore now -arranged as three sides of an oblong. It was given by Ferdinand de -Medici, as is shewn by the following inscription on a plate at the foot -of the altar: "The gift of the piety of Ferdinand de Medici, Grand-duke -of Tuscany, 1588." The same inscription also occurs on the cornice -surmounting the upper part of the altar. The carving is admirably -executed; it is the work of Domenico Portigiani, a Florentine friar of -the convent of S. Mark, and a pupil of the famous sculptor John of -Bologna; as is recorded by the following inscription, placed beneath the -name of the donor: "Made by Fra Domenico Portigiani, a friar of the -convent of S. Mark at Florence in the province of Rome, in the year -1588." The arms of the Medici are sculptured at the four corners, and on -the shield is a Cardinal's hat, because Ferdinand was already invested -with this dignity in the year 1588. - -Having now finished the description of the interior of the church, I -proceed to make some remarks upon the monks of the different communities -who dwell there, and upon the pilgrims (especially the Orientals) who -visit it. The monks of the Greek, Latin, Armenian, Coptic, Abyssinian, -and Syrian communities have different chambers in the church, in which -they live in order that they may keep constant watch over the Holy -Places, and offer up continual prayer and praise to God. Though the -space belonging to the Latins is roomy, it is nevertheless unhealthy -from the constant damp, caused by the rain-water falling through the -ruinous terrace-roofs above, which they cannot repair, as these do not -belong to them, but to some Mohammedans. The owners are very jealous of -their property, which brings them in an easy and ample revenue from the -sums paid by the Latin and Greek convents, in the hope of abating the -nuisance of the water. The Greeks and Armenians are better housed in -their upper chambers, as the terrace-roofs above them do not belong to -Mohammedans, and can therefore be easily repaired; but in their lower -rooms they suffer with the Latins. The three poorer communities are -exposed to constant damp, both from the bad repair of the dome, and from -the situation of the church itself, which stands on low ground, -commanded on all sides by higher buildings. All this, however, does not -hinder the monks from being very eager to enter the place, and from -leaving it with great reluctance when they are succeeded by others; and -the pilgrims eagerly seek permission to remain, if only for one or two -nights. The Latins give a chamber and bed to each visitor inside their -convent, but the same comforts cannot be obtained among the other -communities, both from the numbers that throng together, their station -in life, and also the Eastern custom, which allows men and women to be -crowded together in the same place without distinction of sex. Hence it -comes to pass that from the end of October to Easter the galleries round -the great dome belonging to the different sects (with the exception of -the Latins), though close to the Holy Sepulchre, are crowded, almost -every night, with pilgrims, who, after fervent prayer, eat, drink, -sleep, smoke, and make coffee there, as they would do in an inn; nay, -impelled by deep ignorance and blind fanaticism, carry into effect -certain vows, which I cannot more particularly describe without -offending my readers' modesty. In this way the Eastern pilgrims behave, -and would do still worse, did not their father confessors and the monks -in charge of the place, who are furnished with sticks and whips, make -frequent use of them to maintain order. It is a well-established fact, -and one of daily recurrence, that the rude Eastern pilgrim prays in the -interior of each Holy Place, and then when he has gone away a few yards, -forgets the sanctity of the building, and acts as he pleases. He may -therefore often be seen in any part of the church, talking and -discussing his private affairs with his friends; especially if it be a -rainy day, and he can enter without payment. But this is nothing, -absolutely nothing, in comparison with the scenes at the services before -and during the Easter festival; especially when all the religious -communities coincide in keeping it on the same day. The noise, the -clamour, and the confusion are inconceivable; in one corner they are -praying, in another walking about, laughing, and jesting. Sometimes it -happens that the Latins are performing a noiseless service around the -Sepulchre, and the Armenians are yelling like madmen, as they sing in -their chapels; while the nasal tones of the Greeks ring through the -building, and the frantic howls of the Copts and Abyssinians split the -ears. If a procession takes place, it rather resembles a riot; the -banners rise and fall, the tapers bespatter the spectators, the Turkish -soldiers with fixed bayonets clear a way for the officiating Priests, -the attendants belabour the noisier bystanders with sticks; some -struggle for places and tumble over upon those below them; and all is a -scene of pushing, struggling, and tumult, so that it is a lucky thing -when quarrels do not ensue. Sometimes the jealousy of the rival sects -breaks out around the very Sepulchre of Christ, and then occurs every -frantic act that a senseless and barbarous people can commit. In times -past it was not uncommon that lives were lost; either by suffocation in -the dense crowd as it pressed to go out by the only door, at the -conclusion of the services, or even by blows received in the fights. The -clergy of Jerusalem know this by sad experience, and yet take no steps -to put a stop to it, though it would not be difficult. The Greeks and -Armenians will not abandon the ceremony of the Holy Fire[433] on Easter -Eve, through fear that the number of pilgrims would decrease; since the -greater part of them come to the city simply and solely to witness this -so-called annual miracle. The Latins still continue to represent on the -evening of every Good-Friday the descent from the Cross, and the -interment of the Saviour's body; though, in Jerusalem, from the number -and nature of the spectators of different religious sects, the scene is -almost comic; when it is not rendered tragic by furious and sometimes -fatal quarrels[434]. Whoever has visited the place at the Easter season -will I am sure forgive me this description; and I venture to give the -following advice to any one who has not, that if he is going there from -a religious motive, he had better keep away at that time; but that if he -is actuated simply by curiosity, he should not omit to go there; in -which case he will admit the truth of my information. If during the last -few years the services have gone off more quietly, and the quarrels been -less violent, it is due to the careful oversight of Surraya Pasha, and -the energy he has displayed in quelling the rising tumults. It is a -thing much to be desired, that in this nineteenth century, the causes -which excite the scandals and strifes around the sublimest of monuments, -the Tomb of Christ, should be at last abolished. - -I conclude this subject by pointing out what are the most frequent -causes of these furious disputes between the monks who occupy the -Sepulchre. Since the church is divided among the different communities, -each guards his rights with the utmost jealousy, and quarrels about the -smallest trifle. A nail driven a little too much on the one side or the -other of the boundary line, a slight repair of a wall or pavement -without the consent of all the parties interested, a candlestick knocked -down or taken away from a Sanctuary, a sweeper trespassing with his -broom on the property of another sect, and dusting where he has no -business, excites long and bitter recriminations, which are only put a -stop to by the interference of the local authorities, and sometimes of -the governments that protect the different religious bodies. - -After this somewhat long digression we will go on to consider the -neighbourhood of the Church of the Resurrection. On the east is the -terrace-roof above the Church of S. Helena, the exclusive property of -the Abyssinians; to the west of this are some houses belonging to the -monks, who also possess some wretched dens on the south, abutting on an -old wall, in which is an arcade of five arches, supported by four -pillars with plain capitals; over this runs a cornice, above which are -five pointed windows of the time of the Crusades. From some notices in -Greek manuscripts preserved in the convent of S. Saba, it appears that a -church was erected on this spot by S. Helena, in honour of the Holy -Cross; but this present building, if standing at that time, could not -have escaped the ravages of Chosroes II. of Persia and of Hakem; and we -must therefore refer it to a later date. Accordingly I perfectly agree -with the opinion expressed by M. de Vogue in his chapter on the -Hospital. This author thinks that the Church of S. Mary Latin occupied -this position, a building with a single nave; and this is strongly -corroborated by a passage in the Gesta Francorum[435], which asserts -distinctly that the first Crusaders found it at the south of the Church -of the Invention of the Cross, and a stone's throw from the Church of -the Holy Sepulchre. He therefore considers these ruins to belong to a -building erected in the middle of the twelfth century, on the site of a -church built by the merchants of Amalfi in the eleventh century; when it -was found necessary to establish a church, with a convent and hospice to -receive all the women who came as pilgrims, in order to keep them -separate from the Hospice of S. Mary the Great, presided over by monks, -at the south of this, which I shall presently notice[436]. - -The plot of land on which are the ruins of S. Mary Latin was acquired by -the Russians in 1858. In 1860 they began to clear away a quantity of -rubbish and earth, the accumulation of centuries, in order to lay the -foundations of a house for the Consulate; and, in the course of the -removal, fragments of walls and buildings were found of an earlier date -than the Crusades. History informs us that some houses were erected on -this spot by native labourers for the Amalfi merchants; and in -accordance with this we do not find in these remains that precision and -perfectness of execution which characterizes work executed with European -aid. I endeavoured to connect the walls with the mutilated building; but -I found it impossible to restore them sufficiently to draw out a plan of -any sort; the ruin wrought by time and man is too complete. I have -already mentioned that some remains of an ancient Jewish wall were found -during the excavations in this same plot of land, and now add that, -below it, near to the street on the east, there seems to have been a -portico, some fragments of columns of black granite having been found -there. M. de Vogue, who arrived at Jerusalem after my departure, and -during the progress of the excavations, will no doubt have made further -discoveries; and it is to be hoped that before long we shall have them -described by so able and learned an explorer. - -The 'House of the Prince' is a house to the north of S. Mary Latin, -shewing on the exterior architectural features of a period before the -Crusades; these, however, have all disappeared from the interior, where -now nothing is to be seen but some party-walls of Arab workmanship, -built at different periods, most of them not long ago, in order to -divide it into small separate tenements. It belongs to the Franciscan -convent, which gives free lodging there to the poorest of their nation. -How and when it obtained its name I have not been able to ascertain: -there is, however, a tradition that Godfrey of Bouillon occupied it -during his short reign; this is not improbable in itself, but is -unconfirmed by history; and William of Tyre[437] states that the palace -of the Latin king was near the Temple on the south side; meaning by the -Temple the present area of the _Haram es-Sherif_. In a manuscript -belonging to the Franciscans (preserved in the Convent of S. Saviour) we -find that "from the House of the Prince to the Sepulchre was a -subterranean passage, through which they went to the Church of the -Sepulchre." From this I was led to examine the spot, and found, on the -west side of the house, an aperture level with the ground leading into a -subterranean passage, bearing the appearance of antiquity; but it was so -filled up with rubbish that I was unable to examine it thoroughly; -nevertheless I believe that it communicated with the Chapel of S. -Helena, just at the doorway now walled up, and that its entrance is -covered by the altar nearest to the north-east corner. On the west of -the House of the Prince is a Coptic convent, built upon a part of the -land formerly occupied by the Canons of the Holy Sepulchre; its chapel -is worth a visit; it is of the twelfth century, and no doubt was -originally either the refectory or the dormitory of the ecclesiastics. -From the interior of this convent the open court in front of the Church -of the Resurrection can be reached, by passing through a chapel at its -north-west corner. - -Returning through the entrance gate into the street (which I call -Prince's Street) we come to the so-called cistern of S. Helena, on the -left hand. We enter a chamber serving as a refuge to some poor -Abyssinian families; the inner walls are ancient, together with the -small doorway on the north, by which we begin to descend a dark and most -ruinous staircase, that 'craves wary walking;' however, after going down -thirty very awkward steps, we enter the vault, and the staircase at once -becomes perfectly regular, so much so as to appear more like the way -into a comfortable house than into a cistern; for each step is 5 feet -long, 1-1/2 wide, and about 8 inches deep. The staircase (including its -vaulted roof) and the whole reservoir are excavated in the rock. The -latter is about 86 feet long, 72 wide, and 52 high. I was able to -examine it thoroughly in September, 1858, when it was dry. Holes are -made in the vaulted roof and walls, through which it is supplied by -rain-water from the terrace-roofs of the neighbouring houses and from -the street to the north. This I ascertained by descending into it during -a time of heavy rain. There are some small openings on the south-east to -carry off superfluous water. The construction of this is attributed to -S. Helena (like everything else in Palestine); but its magnitude induces -me to consider it Jewish work of an earlier period. Besides, what motive -could she have had for making it? It could not be for want of a -reservoir; there were plenty of them at Jerusalem then as now; and it is -not likely that she would have wasted money to no purpose, when there -were so many works of benevolence and greater utility, on which she knew -well how to spend it. - -In the north-west corner of the Plan[438] is the mosque of Ibrahim, -situated in the interior of the _Kanki_, called the Hospice of Saladin; -because he richly endowed it to enable it to entertain the Mohammedan -pilgrims to the Holy City; and at the same time erected the minaret, -which is still standing, and restored the entrance-gate. During the time -of the Crusaders it was the palace of the Patriarch of Jerusalem, whence -the adjoining street is called Patriarch's Street. The lower parts of -its walls on the north and west are ancient and strongly built; but the -upper as well as the interior of the building, have greatly suffered -from wretched Arab alterations, so that it is difficult to form any idea -of its former internal plan. In the Christian bazaar on the west the -wall throughout its whole height and the pilasters are unquestionably of -the date of the Crusades, together with the chambers within on the -ground-floor and story above; as is proved by their pointed arches, with -the columns and capitals supporting them. They are now used as -storehouses for the grain received by the governor: and as the Hospice -has no longer any revenues, it will before long become the property of -one of the Christian communities. The staircase inside at the north -entrance is the only part of the building that retains its former -grandeur uninjured. - -Let us now turn our attention to the Hospital. The visitor, on quitting -the court in front of the Church of the Holy Sepulchre by the door at -the south-east corner, enters a small street[439], and passing along -this to the east, comes, after a few yards, to a great doorway with a -semicircular arch, standing on the south side of the way, and adorned -with figures representing the twelve months of the year; above the arch -some traces of a lamb, the emblem of the Hospitalers of Jerusalem, can -still be distinguished[440]. This gateway is now walled up, and very -much hidden by the accumulated earth; and before the year 1858 it was -impossible for any one to go along that way without suffering from -nausea, besides wetting his feet with the foul mire, and encountering a -pack of savage hungry dogs that haunted the place--nuisances caused by a -tannery. The court within and the buildings round it were as bad as the -street; so that the place was hardly fit to be visited, being covered -with carcases of animals and the most abominable filth. The inhabitants -of Jerusalem are indebted to Surraya Pasha for the removal of this -pestiferous evil; and the Christians above all, who have thus obtained a -decent approach to their principal Sanctuary; and can visit, not the -prison of S. Peter, as the ignorant guides call it, but the remains of -the time of the Amalfi merchants and the Knights Hospitaler of S. John; -of which I will now give a brief account. - -The amicable relations between Harun er-Rashid, Khalif of Bagdad, and -Charlemagne, were of the utmost advantage to the Christians at -Jerusalem, and induced the French Monarch to send large gifts thither, -A.D. 810, in order to restore the churches, to build hospices, and -purchase lands for their endowment. The monk Bernard, who visited -Jerusalem in the year 870 A.D., writes as follows[441]: "On our arrival -at Jerusalem we were entertained at the hospice of the glorious Emperor -Charles, where all are welcomed who visit the place from a devout motive -and speak the Latin language. To it is attached a church in honour of S. -Mary, with a noble library, due to the care of the same Emperor, with -twelve houses, fields, vineyards, and a garden in the valley of -Jehoshaphat. In front of the hospice is the market, &c." This -establishment was inhabited by Benedictine monks. In the year 1010 A.D., -Hakem, Khalif of Egypt, destroyed this building, as it was near the -Church of the Resurrection; but when it was rebuilt, another hospice, -together with the Church of S. Mary, was also founded. William of Tyre -states[442] that "certain merchants of Amalfi, who had obtained the -favour of the Governors of the cities of Syria by importing useful and -needful goods and by their quiet and peaceable conduct, obtained -permission from Belfagar (Abu-'l-Giafar?), Sultan of Egypt, to rebuild a -monastery in the Christian quarter to receive pilgrims, minister to the -sick, and practise every kind of charity." To this building and the -church, which they dedicated to the Virgin Mary, they attached offices -for the inmates, together with a public market, in which any one could -establish a shop on paying a rent of two pieces of gold to the Patriarch -and his clergy. This was opposite to the Church of the Resurrection, and -a stone's throw to the south of the Church of the Invention of the -Cross, as I have already said[443]. When the buildings were finished -these merchants placed in them an Abbot with his attendant monks, and as -these performed the service in Latin, while the rest of the clergy in -the place followed the rites of the Greek Church, their church obtained -the name of S. Mary Latin[444]. Afterwards the monks assigned to an -order of nuns a convent which they had founded outside their property to -the north, and dedicated to S. Mary Magdalene; giving it the name of S. -Mary Latin the Less; but these institutions always bore the name of -'Latin[445].' In course of time the number of pilgrims became larger, so -that the monks were obliged to increase their accommodation, and built a -hospital and another church to the west, which they dedicated to S. -John, Patriarch of Alexandria, called 'the Almsgiver,' from the noble -liberality with which he had succoured the Christians who had taken -refuge in Egypt, when Palestine was invaded by Chosroes II. This new -foundation was supported by abundant alms, collected in Italy by the -help of the Amalfi merchants. When the Crusaders made their triumphant -and bloody entry into Jerusalem, they found the convents of S. Mary -Latin in the above situation, and quite uninjured[446]. The hospital at -that time was presided over by a monk named Gerald, and the nunnery by a -noble Roman lady named Agnes[447]. When the Latin kingdom was -established, Gerald found fellow-labourers in his works of benevolence; -who, together with him, were distinguished by a black dress, relieved by -a white cross on the breast, and devoted themselves to the relief of the -sick, the poor, and the pilgrims. Such was the origin of the Fraternity -of S. John. Agnes adopted the same rules, so far as concerned the -ministrations among the poor, and the two communities chose S. John the -Baptist as their joint protector[448]. So long as the brothers were poor -and few in number, they remained under the rule of the Abbot; but when -they found means, and had obtained powerful protectors on account of the -eminent services they had rendered, they spurned his jurisdiction (about -A.D. 1113), and between the years 1118 and 1159 formed themselves into -an organized body, respected for their prowess in arms as champions of -the Faith; and their white and black flag, an emblem of the faith they -professed and the death they menaced to its enemies, waved over many a -glorious field in Syria. The knights, being compelled to quit Jerusalem -after its capture by Saladin, removed to Margat, then to S. Jean d'Acre, -between the years 1187 and 1192; afterwards they remained about twenty -years in the city of Limasol in Cyprus; thence they went to Rhodes (A.D. -1309-1522); and being driven from that island by the conquests of the -Turks, they established themselves at Malta, and took the name of the -country they had adopted. - -During the earlier part of my stay in Jerusalem (1855-6), a certain -member of the order, a man of a chivalrous and philanthropic spirit, was -desirous of re-establishing it upon its primitive footing; but the -obstacles in the way of his project appeared so great, that the attempt -was soon abandoned. His intention was to obtain possession of the -property that had formerly belonged to the knights; a matter itself of -the greatest difficulty, as the land was divided among several owners -(the Greek convent having the largest part), who would not give up a -foot without the fullest compensation. - -It now remains for me to say a few words about the present condition of -these buildings. The Plan[449] shews the positions of the Hospital of S. -John, of S. Mary the Great, and S. Mary the Less, with reference to the -Church of the Resurrection. All three in the present day are but heaps -of ruins; only a few walls remain standing, the greater number being so -completely buried under a mass of earth and rubbish, that little or -nothing can be ascertained about their ancient arrangement. We will -however examine their exterior and interior. On the north side, towards -the north-west corner, are some regular Arab cottages; and going -eastward from them, we come to a minaret, built in the fifteenth -century, in memory of the spot whereon Omar offered up prayer, instead -of entering the Church of the Resurrection. Before the erection of the -minaret, Khahab-ed-Din, nephew of Saladin, built a mosque called -_Derkah_[450] on an adjoining plot of land; this had so completely -fallen to decay, that but a few fragments of its foundations were -remaining in 1855; over which the Mohammedans, actuated rather by -fanaticism than religious feeling, built the slight octagonal monument -called the Mosque of Omar. Opposite to the Church of the Resurrection is -the Greek convent of Gethsemane; in the lower part of its walls are some -fragments of ancient work. After this all along the little street -(except at the decorated entrance) are small ill-built shops, covered -with a great heap of earth, which often slips down during the rainy -season. Inside these shops a careful search will discover some poor -fragments of antiquity; such as mutilated capitals, broken bases, and -carefully worked stones, built into rough Arab masonry. The east side -exhibits similar cottages from the north-east corner as far as the door -leading into the bazaar, which, together with the others near it on the -east (though all are in the most neglected and ruinous condition), shews -signs of antiquity in the walls and vaulting. I consider them to be the -work of the Amalfi merchants, restored at a later period by the -Crusaders. In the shops occupied by the braziers, on the west side of -the bazaar bounding this plot of land, are some old passages which -communicated with the interior of the hospital; but now many of them are -walled up or obstructed with ruins. I managed however to get through -certain of them, after some trouble, in order to reach the building near -them on the west. At the eastern end of the south side are small houses -and Arab shops; which however soon give place to the building now called -from its use the Corn Bazaar; which in its well-laid walls, pointed -arches, and solid vaults, shews plainly the work of the Hospitalers. I -endeavoured to enter by the north side, where at the present time the -stalls are placed, but was prevented by the accumulated earth; however I -was able to ascertain that piers and vaulted roofs still remain in the -northern part of the bazaar. The sentence of death is executed on -criminals in this place. Going thence up the street westward, we see on -the north side a row of fine columns, supporting grand pointed arches, -now closed with Arab masonry. In the wall are doors opening into vaulted -chambers like those in the bazaar. These were formerly the storehouses -of the hospital; they now belong to different owners, the Greek convent -possessing the largest share. The arcade towards the west is broken by a -very high common Arab wall, enclosing the south side of the Greek -convent of S. John Baptist; the entrance to which is in the Christian -bazaar, which bounds the Hospital on the east. All the interior of the -convent is modern Arab masonry, but some debased Corinthian capitals are -built irregularly into the facade of the church; some more are to be -seen in other parts, placed upon ancient bases of columns. These were -discovered when the convent was enlarged towards the east. The crypt of -the church, reached by an external staircase on the south side, is an -uninjured building of the Hospitalers; in its east wall is a doorway -with a pointed arch, closed to prevent the earth falling in. The rock -lies about two feet below the pavement, and was discovered nearly at the -same depth to the south of the convent, when the Prussian hospital was -built; so that the correspondence of these levels proves the -nonexistence of Dr Robinson's Tyropoeon. Going northward along the -Christian bazaar, we come to a Turkish bath on the east side, supplied -during a large portion of the year from the pool commonly called the -Pool of Hezekiah[451]. The refuse water is carried off by a conduit, -emptying itself into that which runs along the Street of David. I have -examined it at the two ends, and also in the interior of the convent, -through the kindness of the Greek Prior. Its lower part is hewn in the -rock; but the side walls and vaulting belong to the period of the -Crusaders; it is too narrow to be traversed. From the bath up to the -north-west corner are storehouses and wretched buildings, all of the -commonest Arab work. - -The present entrance into the precincts of the Hospital is near the -western end of the northern side. Within, a spacious plateau meets the -eye, formed by the earth which has accumulated at different periods; in -the north-east corner is a very ruinous building; on the east it is -bounded by the vaults of the bazaars below; these are very dilapidated -and covered by a luxuriant vegetation of creeping plants, which daily -makes the ruin worse; on the south are the fallen terrace-roofs of the -ancient halls mentioned above; in the south-west corner stand the walls -of the Convent of S. John; on the west, the low walls dividing it from -the little gardens, terraces, and Mohammedan houses; and on the north, -what we have already described. The plateau itself, on which there are -no houses, belongs to the Greek Convent of S. Constantine; the building -on the north-east is the property of the Governor, and in 1858 would -have been sold to the Greeks or the Armenians, if M. Edmond de Barrere, -the French Consul, had not actively interposed to prevent it, in the -hope that it might one day be restored, if not to the knights of Malta, -at least to France. Let us then enter it. - -Its plan is that of a poor convent with an inner court, round which -still runs a cloister on the level of the ground; though it has been -transformed by the tanners, who have made the space between each pair of -pillars into shops. The upper floor of the cloister is perfect, with the -cells within. Opening into it on the south side is a long hall, little -injured, which was probably the refectory; and parallel to this are two -smaller chambers, in a tottering condition[452]. On the north of the -convent[453] are some ruins of a church, sufficiently perfect to give us -an idea of its ancient form. It had three apses at the east end; the -southern of these is still standing; the fragments of the others are -nearly covered by heaps of earth, as are portions of the side walls. We -can ascertain its original length from a part of the west wall, which is -still standing, though enclosed in a mass of Arab cottages, against -which are the remains of two piers with their bases perfect. From these -ruins I can infer that the church was divided into a nave with two side -aisles. I consider the remains, both of the convent and of the church, -to be the work of the Amalfi merchants. Their architecture, proportions, -and masonry are too contracted and insignificant to be of the period of -the Crusaders, who however undoubtedly built the great entrance gateway, -and perhaps restored the church; this latter point, however, cannot -easily be determined, as the building is in such a ruined condition. -Close to the apse still standing is a door, leading into a long dark -chamber, which is exhibited as the prison in which S. Peter was confined -by Herod Agrippa I. The tradition is worthless, and not so old as the -time of the Crusaders; who, on their entry into Jerusalem, found on -Mount Sion a church dedicated to the imprisonment of S. Peter, standing -on the supposed site of the prison. The place may be considered to be -the sacristy of the ancient church, which communicated with the convent. -At the present time there are some richly ornamented capitals within it -of excellent workmanship, together with some cornices; all however are -out of their proper places, being either built into the walls or lying -on the ground. - -These ruins belong to the church of S. Mary the Great. All authors -previous to the fifteenth century are unanimous on this point. John of -Wuertzburg[454], who visited Jerusalem in the second half of the twelfth -century, states that "near the Church of the Hospital of S. John is a -nunnery in honour of the Virgin, almost close to the end of the church; -it is called S. Mary the Great." This, formerly the monastery, was now -inhabited by the Sisters Hospitaler under the charge of an Abbess, and -was a dependency of the Grand Master of the Order. Agnes was the -foundress, as I have already said; and she was succeeded by other ladies -of rank: two of whom are mentioned by William of Tyre[455], one called -Sibylla, the other Stephania, a daughter of Jocelin (Senior) Count of -Edessa. The ruins of S. Mary the Great have been preserved because -Saladin founded a hospital there, which he richly endowed; but its -revenues are now exhausted. It is not fifty years, since a philanthropic -Mohammedan of Jerusalem endeavoured to re-establish the charitable -foundations of Saladin, but the managers have again squandered the -property. It is now quite deserted and has become a receptacle of filth, -waiting every day to be applied to some other purpose. - -Let us now look for the position of the Hospital, which is well -defined[456]. It occupied a piece of land bounded on the north by the -court in front of the door of the Holy Sepulchre and by Palmers -Street[457], formerly the Tan-yard Street; on the west by Patriarch -Street, or the Christian bazaar; and on the east and south by a small -street which, beginning from Palmers Street, opposite to the Sepulchre, -ran southward between the convent of S. Mary the Great and the Hospital, -and turning to the west led into Patriarch Street[458]. The principal -buildings, with the church, were erected between A.D. 1130 and 1140, -under the superintendence of Raymond of Puy, Grand Master of the -Hospital. William of Tyre relates that they were so large, especially -those opposite to the door of the Church of the Sepulchre, that they -surpassed it in magnificence; besides which they had a large peal of -bells, whose sound drowned the voice of the Patriarch when he was -preaching on the Calvary. No part of these splendid buildings now -remains perfect; all are a mass of ruins, or covered with earth and Arab -cottages. Sir John Maundeville, who visited Jerusalem A.D. 1322, found -the hospital still standing, and states that it was supported by 124 -columns of stone and 54 pilasters built into the wall[459]. I was -therefore very anxious to examine the ground in the hope of finding some -remains of these. I carried on excavations for many days in various -directions: I forced my way with great difficulty from vault to vault; -but found neither fragments of columns nor capitals, only very many -pilasters. I discovered a large crypt by chance; for the ground gave way -under my feet, and I fell into it; but it was so filled with earth that -I could not explore it. When the Greeks remove the ruins in order to -build upon this site, it may be possible to discover some remains of the -ancient walls, and perhaps to make out something about its arrangement. - - -FOOTNOTES: - -[372] Note I. - -[373] S. John xix. 20. - -[374] S. Luke xxiii. 27. - -[375] S. John xix. 31. - -[376] S. John xix. 14. - -[377] S. Matt. xxvii. 45, 46. - -[378] Mischna, 4th part, _Bava-bathra_, c. II., Sec. 8. - -[379] Page 30. - -[380] S. John xix. 41. - -[381] S. Matt. xxvii. 60, 61; S. Luke xxiii. 55; S. John xix. 38, 39, -41, 42. - -[382] S. Matt. xxvii. 62-64. - -[383] S. Matt. xxvii. 66; xxviii. 4. - -[384] Treatise Sanhedrim, fol. 43 (Venet. edit.). - -[385] Ant. XX. 9, Sec. 1. - -[386] Eusebius, Hist. Eccl. III. 5. - -[387] Ibid. IV. 6. - -[388] Note II. - -[389] Euseb. Vita Constant. III. 26, 28. - -[390] Note III. - -[391] Histoire de l'Etat present de Jer. ch. IV. - -[392] Note IV. - -[393] Eutychius, Ann. Tom. II. pp. 421-423. - -[394] So William of Tyre reports, Lib. I. c. 3, but Cedrenus attributes -their destruction to Azis, father of Hakem. I am inclined to credit the -former, because, according to historians, Azis shewed kindness to the -Christians, having married a wife from among them, the sister of John, -Patriarch of Jerusalem, (Dositheus' History of the Patriarchs of -Jerusalem); while all agree in depicting Hakem as a savage bloodthirsty -tyrant; so that it is in the highest degree improbable that (as some -assert) he restored the churches destroyed by Azis. Cedrenus betrays his -own mistake when he says that Azis burnt the patriarch and the church -together, A.D. 968; whereas he did not ascend the throne till A.D. 975. - -[395] Note V. - -[396] Note VI. - -[397] Plate XXXI. - -[398] Note VII. - -[399] Plates XXX., XXXIV. - -[400] Note VIII. - -[401] As for example, Maria the Portuguese, a nun of the third order of -S. Francis, A.D. 1578, and Cosimo of Granada, a Franciscan friar, A.D. -1559. - -[402] For details of the capitals of the columns in it see Plate XXXVI. - -[403] See M. de Vogue's excellent description, Les Eglises de la Terre -Sainte, p. 199 et seq. - -[404] Plates XXXII., XXXIII. - -[405] Note IX. - -[406] Note X. - -[407] Plate XXXVI. - -[408] Note XI. - -[409] Liber Secretorum Fidelium Crucis, Lib. III. pars 14, c. 8; Note -XII. - -[410] Plates XXXIV., XXXV. - -[411] Plate XXXV. - -[412] S. Matt. xxviii. 2. - -[413] Mabillon, Acta Sanctorum, Saec. 3, pars 2. - -[414] Itinerarium Terrae Sanctae in Leo Allatius, Symmikta, ed. 1653, p. -147. - -[415] Itinerarium Hierosolymitanum, p. 40, ed. of 1486. - -[416] Note XIII. - -[417] Plates LVI., LIX. - -[418] Plate LVI. - -[419] S. Matt. xxviii. 2. - -[420] S. Mark xvi. 1-6. - -[421] S. Luke xxiv. 2, 3. - -[422] S. John xx. 1, 4, 5, 6. - -[423] Euseb. Theoph. See Lee's translation, p. 199, Camb. 1843. - -[424] S. Cyril, Catechet. Lect. XIV. (Library of the Fathers, Vol. II. -p. 169). - -[425] Plate XXXIV. (section). - -[426] Plate LIX. - -[427] Plate XXXV. - -[428] Ezek. v. 5. - -[429] Inferno, II. 1 (Wright). - -[430] Plate XXXV. - -[431] Plate XXXVI. - -[432] I except the Latins from this reproach. - -[433] Note XIV. - -[434] Note XV. - -[435] Gesta Francorum expugnantium Hierusalem (Gesta Dei per Francos, -Tom. I. p. 573, ed. 1611). - -[436] Les Eglises de la Terre Sainte. De Vogue, pp. 249, 262 et seq. - -[437] Lib. XII. c. 7 (Gesta Dei per Francos, Tom. II. pp. 819, 820, ed. -1611). - -[438] Plate XXX. - -[439] Note XVI. - -[440] Plate XXXVII. - -[441] Recueil de Voyages et de Memoires publies par la Societe de -Geographie. 4to. Vol. IV. p. 789. - -[442] Lib. XVIII. c. 4 (Gesta Dei per Francos, Tom. II. pp. 933, 934, -ed. 1611). - -[443] Page 125. - -[444] Note XVII. - -[445] William of Tyre, Lib. IX. c. 18 (Gesta Dei per Francos, Tom. II. -p. 773, ed. 1611). - -[446] Albert of Aix, Lib. VI. c. 25 (Gesta Dei per Francos, Tom. I. p. -281, ed. 1611). - -[447] William of Tyre, Lib. XVIII. c. 5 (Gesta Dei per Francos, Tom. II. -p. 935, ed. 1611). - -[448] See Saewulf's description, Note V. - -[449] Plate XXX. - -[450] Mejir-ed-Din, p. 123. - -[451] Plate XXXI. - -[452] Plate XXX. - -[453] Plate XXXVIII. - -[454] Descriptio Terrae Sanctae. Pez. thes. anecd. noviss. Vol. I. pt. 3, -col. 526. - -[455] William of Tyre, Lib. XIX. c. 4 (Gesta Dei, &c. Vol. II. p. 958). - -[456] De Vogue, Les Eglises, &c. p. 251. - -[457] Note XVI. - -[458] Note XVIII. - -[459] Early Travels in Palestine. Bohn's Ant. Libr. p. 168. - - - - -CHAPTER V. - - INVESTIGATIONS IN THE VIA DOLOROSA (OR THE WAY OF THE CROSS). THE - RELIGIOUS AND OTHER REMARKABLE BUILDINGS IN IT OR IN ITS - NEIGHBOURHOOD AND IN THE REST OF THE CITY, TOGETHER WITH ALL THE - CONVENTS OF THE DIFFERENT RELIGIOUS COMMUNITIES. - - -The _Via Dolorosa_ is the street our Saviour is supposed to have passed -along on his road from the Praetorium to Calvary. The following is the -course assigned to it by the only tradition which mentions it. It begins -in the street which passes by the northern side of the barrack of the -_Haram_[460], and goes westward till it meets the central valley -(Tyropoeon), which it follows for a short distance southward; it then -turns along the first street to the west, and after going through the -Judgement Gate, must have again turned to the south a short distance -beyond it, (opposite to the little street running to the north,) in -order to reach the Church of the Resurrection, just at the north-east -angle inside the Chapel of S. Helena. The last part of its course, if -this were its course, is now entirely covered by the buildings of the -Greek Convent of S. Charalampes. The present Via Dolorosa is divided -into fourteen stations: these are visited with religious care by -pilgrims, because they are asserted to be the very places at which the -last scenes of the Passion of Christ were enacted. They are as follows: - -(i). Praetorium of Pilate (Barrack of the Haram); _Jesus condemned to -death_. - -(ii). Site of the 'scala sancta' (near to the north-east corner of the -Barrack); _Jesus given His Cross to bear_. - -(iii). A column lying on the ground south of the Austrian hospice (at -the north-west corner of the Armenian Catholics' property); _Jesus falls -the first time_. - -(iv). South-west corner of the same property (a little street leading to -the house of the Governor of the city); _Jesus meets His mother_. - -(v). A stone built into the south wall of the street going up to the -Judgement Gate; _Simon the Cyrenian assists Jesus to bear the Cross_. - -(vi). The house of Veronica (in the above street); _Veronica wipes the -face of Jesus_. - -(vii). The Judgement Gate; _Jesus falls the second time_. - -(viii). A small aperture in the wall of the Greek Convent of S. -Charalampes (west of the above gate); marking the spot where _Jesus -beheld the women weeping_. - -(ix). A column lying on the ground by the Copts' convent (at the -north-east corner of the Church of the Resurrection); _Jesus falls the -third time_. - -(x). A mark on the pavement at the south side of the platform of the -Calvary (before the window opposite to the Chapel of the Agony); _Jesus -stripped of his garments_. - -(xi). A small square of mosaic work before the Latin altar (also in the -south part); _Jesus nailed to the Cross_. - -(xii). A hole at the east end of the north side of the platform of the -Calvary, beneath the Greek altar; _Place where the Cross was erected. -Death of Jesus_. - -(xiii). In front of the last station (six feet from the Greek altar); -_Jesus taken down from the Cross_. - -(xiv). _Sepulchre of Jesus Christ_, under the middle of the great dome. - -This is the description of the stations given by the Latins; but the -Greeks and Armenians do not agree with them about all the places; and I -attach importance to this fact, since the Greeks have lived in the city -for the longest time; and this difference of opinion on their part very -much diminishes the value of the tradition. I said that the sole -authority for the Via Dolorosa was tradition; because neither the Bible, -nor Josephus, nor the configuration of the ground, afford us any -positive _data_ to aid in identifying the present road with that trodden -by our Saviour on His way to Calvary; and the tradition is of very -little weight, as I will presently shew. - -Let us then consider in detail the places mentioned above. The Praetorium -of Pilate is noticed by the Evangelists, who, however, do not say -exactly where it was situated. However, with the help of Josephus I -have been able to ascertain its position. In the third chapter[461] I -shewed that the tower Antonia occupied the north-west corner of the -_Haram_[462], and that the rock which rises high in the south wall of -the barrack was the _north_ side of that fortress. Hence the Praetorium, -which was inside the tower[463], cannot be identified with the barrack, -which stretches across the greater part of the valley that formerly -defended the Temple on the north, and divided it from Bezetha[464]; and -consequently is outside the Antonia, and so cannot be on the site of the -Praetorium. This therefore I consider to have stood on the surface of -rock now exposed at the north-west corner inside the _Haram_ wall[465]. -The tradition relating to the Praetorium is very ancient. The Pilgrim of -Bordeaux, A.D. 333, says, in his description of the city: "As you go -from Sion to the Neapolitan gate, on the right in the valley below are -walls where was once the palace of Pontius Pilate." I think that these -walls were founded, at least in part, on the rock exposed in the south -side of the present barrack, or else he would not have been able to see -them; and since this was the north side of the tower Antonia, it is -quite possible that they belonged to the Praetorium, and perhaps the -projecting rock was mistaken for walls; a thing which is not improbable, -since S. Cyril[466] (in the fourth century) in mentioning the Praetorium -states that 'it is now laid waste.' Antoninus of Piacenza found there -(in the seventh century) a church dedicated to S. Sophia[467], but -whether this was built by S. Helena or Justinian I do not know, since it -is not mentioned by Eusebius or Procopius. It is more probably the work -of the Emperor, who erected other buildings of this kind on Moriah, -while the former paid no particular attention to the place. A historian -of the first Crusade writes as follows[468]: "The Flagellation and the -Coronation (with thorns) of Jesus Christ, within the city, receive the -reverence of the faithful ... but it is now not easy to ascertain their -true positions; because, above all other reasons, the whole city has -been so often destroyed and even razed." It follows then from this -passage that the Christians, about eight centuries ago, had doubts of -the truth of the tradition. John of Wuertzburg, and other authors of the -twelfth century, place the Praetorium on Mount Sion, which shews that the -traditions at that time were uncertain and confused. From the end of the -twelfth century all have agreed in recognizing the barrack as its site. -The author of the _Citez de Jherusalem_[469] clearly indicates its -present position: "A little in advance of this street (that of -Jehoshaphat, for so the street leading to S. Mary's Gate was then -called) was the house of Pilate. On the left hand in front of this -house was a gate leading up to the Temple." Quaresmius[470] states that -in his day the remains of a church built on the Praetorium were to be -seen, consisting of the choir and some of the side-chapels with traces -of paintings. Of this only a few fragments now remain in an inner court -of the barrack. - -From these _data_ it follows that the site of the Praetorium has been -known since the fourth century, and that no doubt by tradition; but as -there was a great accumulation of ruins upon the place, the position -could only be fixed by what remained uninjured, namely the rock; and it -might very easily happen that in course of time it should be placed to -the south instead of the north of this mark. My opinion as to the -position is supported by Josephus, and is not contradicted by the -expressions in the authors before the Crusades; for the 'standing walls' -could only be on the rock, and the 'waste place' of S. Cyril within the -north-west angle of the _Haram_. - -An ancient chapel within the barrack is pointed out as the spot where -Jesus was crowned with thorns; possibly it was originally dedicated to -the Passion of the Redeemer. Its plan is a square, the length of a side -being about 16 feet; above it rises an octagonal dome, supported by a -drum of the same shape. Four sides (alternate) of the octagon are -replaced in the lower part by small pointed arches, in order to adapt -this form of the drum to the square plan of the building. A pointed -doorway in the south wall leads into a small square chapel, with a niche -on each side. The arrangement of the arches, the form, and the -ornamentation of the building, resemble Roman architecture; but the work -shews it to be of the period of the Crusades. Quaresmius[471] is the -first to mention this chapel; no notice of it occurring in any author -anterior to his time. It is now used as a storehouse of barley for the -artillery-horses. - -Turning to the east on leaving the barrack, we find in its north wall a -doorway built up; half of which is Saracenic work in red and white -stone. Through it our Lord is believed to have left the Praetorium; and -the staircase which was transported to the Church of S. John Lateran at -Rome is said to have been the very one by which he descended. When I -examined this door at the end of 1854, its lowest part was two feet -above the level of the street, having a semicircular step built into the -pavement, which was pointed out as a fragment of the sacred staircase. I -was surprised that the Christians had not taken care to remove it; -especially as they had had an opportunity when the barrack was built by -Ibrahim Pasha, who would have readily granted their request. In 1857 the -military commandant constructed a raised footpath (one foot high) along -by the barrack-wall, and the step was covered up without any one making -the slightest attempt to preserve it. The tradition about this place is -very untrustworthy; the configuration of the ground does not confirm it, -and the Bible does not mention that our Lord ascended or descended any -staircase. The present street runs entirely over accumulated rubbish, -which at this point is 16 feet thick above the old level of the valley, -so that the door must at that time have had a flight of at least 28 -steps to form a communication with the bottom of the valley; and the -lowest part of the door itself is 15 feet below the level of the inner -court of the barrack, which would require 25 steps more; so that -altogether there must have been some 53 steps in all. This would not be -an unlikely approach to a barrack, but it is most improbable that the -Antonia would have had such a weak point in its defences on the most -important side as this stone staircase would have been. The valley which -divided Moriah from Bezetha has been entirely overlooked by the -believers in the 'Scala sancta.' Again, it is well known that the -Praetorium was in the interior of the Antonia; how then could this door -be in the Praetorium? If the Antonia be placed outside the north-west -corner of the _Haram_, then the Praetorium would have been in the valley, -and the fortress could not have been defended on the north, in the way -Josephus says it was; and if (as I think) it be placed inside the -enclosure, then the gate and staircase could never have occupied the -positions now assigned to them. Again, we are told that all this part of -the city was utterly destroyed; therefore the Praetorium too must have -been swept away, and its ruins have helped to fill up the valley. In -fact, the door now shewn is only a fragment of some work of the time of -Saladin or Solyman. - -Nearly opposite to the door of the 'Scala sancta' is a little opening -with an iron grate; this is the entrance to the Chapel of the -Flagellation; and beneath the altar in the middle they point out the -exact place where the Redeemer was bound to a column to be scourged. -Here Quaresmius[472] saw a small but handsome and well-preserved chapel, -which had been used as a stable by Mustafa Bey, son of the Governor of -the city. Abbe Mariti, who visited it A.D. 1767, says[473], that he saw -"a large square hall, covered by a high vaulted roof; the facade -resembled that of a church or oratory, and though the walls were very -black, traces of pictures could still be discerned on them. They assert -that the Saviour was scourged on this spot, but I do not see on what -grounds. As this building is in a way connected with the Praetorium, many -have given credence to this tradition; though, as I believe, it is only -founded on the reverence felt by the Christians for that chamber, which -no doubt induced them to build there a chapel in memory of the -Flagellation. Many miracles are said to have been performed here. The -people of Jerusalem, both Christian and Mohammedan, relate stories about -them, which remind us of the mediaeval legends. The Mohammedans have -converted the place into a stable." The above shews that the tradition -itself is not ancient. The Franciscan monks relate that the chapel and -the adjoining land, occupied by the hospice, were given to them by -Ibrahim Pasha, and that they restored and enlarged the chapel in 1839, -aided by the liberality of Maximilian, Duke of Bavaria; but that the -expense of laying the foundations was very great, as they were extremely -deep, especially on the south side. The place therefore now pointed out -beneath the altar cannot be the exact spot where our Saviour stood, -because of the great quantity of earth above the rock. How, too, can -this site for the Flagellation be reconciled with the position of the -'Scala sancta' or of the Praetorium? It is quite impossible that they can -have been connected together in former times, because of the above-named -valley. The size also of the tower Antonia is an obstacle, for each of -its sides was only half a stadium, whereas, if we accept the traditional -site for the Flagellation, the Praetorium alone must have been nearly of -that size. The present chapel is dedicated to the Flagellation, and is -in no way remarkable: the few remains of antiquity it possesses have -been covered over with whitewash, excepting some capitals built into the -side walls, which appear to be Roman work. - -Quitting the above place and following the road westward, we arrive at -the arch of the 'Ecce Homo,' called at the time of the Crusades the -'Porta Dolorosa[474].' It is so named because it is believed that from -it our Lord was shewn to the people by Pilate[475]. I have already -proved[476] that the arch is much too modern to admit of this being the -case; and if it were so, it seems impossible that the place should have -been passed over in silence by Eusebius at the time of the Empress -Helena, and by other authors after him, like Antoninus of Piacenza, -Willibald, and Bernard the Monk. How is it that the writers before the -time of the Crusades do not mention it? Had there been any tradition of -the kind, it would never have been omitted (at least if they believed in -it): so that it seems certain that the belief sprung up during the -Crusades, the origin of it, no doubt, being that the arch was at first -regarded as dedicated to the Passion of Christ. I have already stated, -and now repeat it, that, for military reasons, the Jews would never have -allowed this arch to stand during the siege, and that if they had, it -would not have escaped the Romans. An author of the present day has -attempted to interpret the letters carved on two stones in the north -pilaster on the west side; but with regard to that, I will quote the -words of the Abbe Mariti[477]. "They have assured me that about sixty -years ago (i.e. before 1767) these words were read TOL...TO..., and at a -still earlier period TOLLE TOLLE CRUCIFIGE EUM. Others assert that they -have read thus TO. C. X. For my own part I have only been able to make -out a single O in a clear Roman character; but the stones on which the -letters are carved are so much injured that they will soon crumble -away, and thus put a stop to all conjectures." As then only one letter -could be deciphered at the time of Abbe Mariti, I hope to be believed -when I say that even this is now indistinct. But even if the inscription -was rightly read as above, that is no proof that the arch was standing -in our Lord's life-time; it establishes no more than that some one -carved the inscription in remembrance of an event which unquestionably -happened in the vicinity. - -On some high ground to the north of the arch of the 'Ecce Homo' are a -ruinous mosque and a minaret, which are approached by the little street -running along the east side of the new buildings of the Daughters of -Sion; this, according to tradition, is the site of the palace of Herod -Antipas, to which Pilate sent our Lord to be judged by the Tetrarch of -Galilee[478]. I have carried on many excavations in order to examine -this spot, and have discovered stones of the Herodian period in the -lower parts of the walls, besides others scattered about among the -ruins, or built into the masonry, and therefore think that this is -really the site of the palace; and that it must be the place from which -Antigonus went to visit his brother Aristobulus by the way of the -subterranean passage, Strato's tower, in which he was murdered[479]. It -appears probable that a church was erected here during the Latin -kingdom, but it has been so much altered that now it can hardly be -recognized. No writer before or after the Crusades mentions it, but the -remains, and their position with reference to the subterranean passage -and the Antonia, induce me to believe the tradition. - -Returning to the arch, and going along the street westward as far as the -central valley, we come on the south side to the Station of the First -Fall of Christ. The Evangelists make no mention of any falls; but, from -reading their narrative, we may well suppose that, worn by the sorrow -and agony of that night, He fell many times: still to the faithful heart -and thoughtful mind all additions to the sublimity of the Gospel -narrative are offensive, while they cannot be instructive to the man in -whom these qualities are wanting. - -Some yards from this spot, rather to the west, are the ruins of a -church, perhaps of the date of the Crusades; said to be on the spot -where the Virgin Mary swooned at the sight of her Son's sufferings; to -record which a chapel was erected, bearing the name Chapel of the -Virgin's Swoon. This had already been destroyed in the time of -Quaresmius; but it appears that afterwards the Mohammedans repaired it, -converting it into a mosque. The upper part has again fallen to ruin; in -the lower is the Agency of the Austrian Lloyd. - -Following the street southward from the Station of the First Fall, we -come to the spot pointed out as the place where the Virgin Mary met -Jesus. There is no mention of this circumstance in the Evangelists; it -is therefore only a tradition; and how can it be true of a place in a -street which has only existed a few centuries (as is shewn by the -houses on each side), and runs over a mass of ruins? Moreover, in this -direction the Roman armies under Pompeius, and again under Titus, made -their attacks on the Temple; it is therefore very improbable that after -the time of the latter there would be any traces of a street left. When -Hadrian rebuilt the city he set up idols in the principal sacred places -to insult the Jews and Christians; and we may therefore believe that, in -laying out the streets afresh, he would have swept away every trace of -the tradition, if any had then existed. Close to the station, on the -south, is a great pointed arch with delicately executed details, -supported by two well-built piers. It dates from the Crusades, and very -probably was the entrance to some religious building, erected to -commemorate one of the events of the Passion; or perhaps a convent may -have been at this place. Arab houses are built on each side of it facing -the street, so that nothing can be made out there. I entered these to -see if I could ascertain anything, but my examination produced little -result, because an Arab wall completely masks it; while a number of -small longitudinal and transverse party-walls, all of Arab work, have -entirely transformed the appearance of the place. However, in these I -found some polished stones, and fragments of ornaments, with mutilated -capitals and broken columns; all proofs of the existence of a building -of the time of the Crusades. Perhaps a nunnery[480], dedicated to S. -John, once stood on this spot, belonging to the Benedictines of Bethany, -and used by them as a refuge in time of war. Here the guides not -unfrequently point out the house of the beggar Lazarus, opposite to the -arch; and also shew the palace of the wicked Dives, at a little distance -to the south in the same street. This is a house built of different -coloured stones. These 'Jerusalem antiquarians' have converted the -parable into a historic fact, and so endeavoured to preserve the traces -of the dwellings! I suppose they think that the poor men "full of sores" -were of more importance in former times than now. There are still -numbers of lepers, who, from morning to evening, wait outside the Jaffa -Gate to beg; and many give them an alms, but who now ever bestows a -second thought on them, or would remember where they lived? The 'palace -of Dives' is a handsome building of the sixteenth century, erected by -the liberality of Solyman for a hospital. It is still used for the same -purpose by the soldiers belonging to the garrison; but if not soon -repaired, it will share the usual fate of Mohammedan government -property, and fall into ruins. - -The Evangelists tell us that Simon the Cyrenian aided our Lord in -bearing His Cross, but do not mention the place where he encountered -Him[481]. It very probably was near the present Station, or a little to -the south of it, as he no doubt entered the city from the country by -the North Gate or Gate of Ephraim (now the Damascus Gate). A small stone -built into a modern Arab wall marks the place. We must, however, -remember that this street runs upon a mass of rubbish 17 feet thick, as -I discovered during the repairs of the sewer; so that the actual site of -the meeting is covered up. This remark also applies to the next station. -The Mohammedans and Jews are wont to throw dirt at the stone, when they -see Christians kneeling before it, so that one frequently finds it -necessary to make the fanatics undo their work, reminding the former -that Isa (Jesus) was one of their prophets, and the latter that it is no -longer the time to renew the ancient scenes of persecution. I mention -this to shew how serious quarrels frequently arise in Jerusalem, which -are not appeased without much difficulty. - -The Evangelists make no mention of Veronica. Much has been written upon -this point: some considering her to be the sick woman who was healed by -touching the hem of the Saviour's garment[482]; others, a lady of noble -birth named Berenice, whose name was changed to Veronica after she -became a follower of Christ; deriving the word from Vera-icon (true -image)! The tradition of Veronica and the Holy Napkin dates from a very -early period in the history of Christianity; as do the different Holy -Napkins, which are in existence in various places. In 1854 the walls -(Arab work) of the House of Veronica were in a ruinous condition, and -were entirely rebuilt by the Mohammedan owner. I then discovered that -its foundations rested on made ground, so that they were of no very -great age. On digging down for the rock, to lay the new foundations, the -workmen came upon large stones, which I consider to be the remains of -the second wall of the city, not of any former House of Veronica. - -Further on the street is arched over, and in the side-walls are remains -of ancient masonry. Here some place the House of the Wandering Jew! This -tradition however (or rather legend) is not accepted by the Christians -of Jerusalem. The number of stones of ancient Jewish workmanship in the -lower parts of the wall and inside the buildings on each side, and the -position in the line of the second wall, in its course from the Antonia -across the Tyropoeon, lead me to think that the Gate of Ephraim -formerly stood exactly on this spot. The pointed arches in the doors -half buried in the accumulated earth seem to shew that some building -occupied this site in the time of the Crusades. - -Tradition asserts that the sentence of death was affixed to the -Judgement Gate, by which the condemned criminal went out on his way to -execution, and that as our Lord passed by here He fell the second time. -Adrichomius holds that the name is derived from its being the place -where the Sanhedrim assembled to pronounce sentence, but he gives no -reason for their meeting there rather than in any other place. I -consider that probably it was called the Gate of Ephraim[483] previous -to the building of Herod's wall, and that the name was afterwards -changed. The Evangelists make no mention either of it or of the second -fall of Christ. - -Our Lord's meeting with the 'daughters of Jerusalem' is mentioned by S. -Luke[484], but, owing to the circumstance that Titus attacked the second -line of walls from this side, it is obvious that, even if the event -happened in this neighbourhood, all traces of the exact spot must have -been swept away in the changes that the place has undergone; so that the -tradition is valueless. - -The station of the Third Fall needs no comment. With regard to the -Calvary and Sepulchre I have already expressed my opinion in the fourth -chapter. I believe the other stations to be in the neighbourhood of -them, so that while I cannot undertake to fix their exact position, I do -not absolutely refuse to give any credence to them. - -I hold, therefore, that the present Via Dolorosa is only a -representation of the true one; and regard it in the same way as I do -the Stations in Churches; that is, as a useful agent in arousing -religious feelings, and bringing to remembrance the solemn scenes of the -Redeemer's Passion. The changes wrought in the city at its destruction -by Titus and rebuilding by Hadrian, and the numerous alterations at -other times, the accumulation of rubbish, and, above all, the -impossibility of the position of one part of the street, lying, as it -would do, in the north ditch of the Antonia, seem to me insuperable -difficulties in the way of establishing the identity of this with the -road trodden by our Saviour. That I believe to have commenced on the -west side of the Antonia, and to have followed the line of the present -street of S. Helena's Hospital up to the Church of the Holy Sepulchre. -Along this, in my opinion, the Stations might more reasonably be placed; -for, whatever theory be adopted about the tower Antonia, the difficulty -of the valley cannot be explained away. - -I now pass on to consider the other buildings, religious and civil, in -the city; and with this view conduct my reader to S. Mary's Gate, from -which point we will begin our examination. Near the gate is the Church -of S. Ann, now belonging to France. When I first saw it in 1854 it was -used as a shelter for the Governor's horse-soldiers, while the -courtyard, all strewed with ruins, was frequented by camel-drivers, who -tethered their beasts there, so that it had become covered with filth: -and as the Mohammedans took no care of the fabric, it became more -ruinous every day, without any attempt at repairing it, even so far as -was necessary to keep it in use for a stable. Since the year 1761 it had -been abandoned by the Mohammedans, because (as they said) shrieks and -howls were heard every time that they went there; and in 1767 they were -so fully persuaded of this, that the Santon himself, who was in charge -of the place, offered the keys to the Franciscans, by whom (after due -consideration of the consequence of accepting them) they were refused. -It was then entirely deserted, except that the monks, by permission of -the Pasha, continued to celebrate mass in it on the Festival of the -Conception, and on that of the Nativity of the Virgin Mary, who -(according to them) was born there. So matters went on until in 1856 M. -de Barrere happily thought of endeavouring to obtain it for the Roman -Church, and was so well seconded by his government at Constantinople, -that his hopes were realized; for on October 19, 1856, the Sultan -granted it to France, and on November 1, M. de Barrere took possession -of the building with all formality, receiving the keys from Kiamil -Pasha. The repairs were begun about a year ago, and soon Jerusalem will -possess a new church, one of the finest in Palestine. Having given this -preliminary account, let us examine into the history of its foundation -and its vicissitudes. - -Some think that it was founded (as usual) by S. Helena; but of this we -cannot be certain, as it is not mentioned among the churches built by -the Empress, which, according to Nicephorus, exceeded thirty in number. -"Moreover this woman, the mother of the Emperor, most pleasing in God's -sight, founded more than thirty churches in these Holy Places[485]." In -the seventh century the pilgrims speak of a church of the Nativity of -the Virgin near the pool 'Probatica.' S. John of Damascus[486] writes -thus: "The Virgin was brought forth in the house of 'the Probatica,' of -Joachim;" and again, in the First Oration on the Nativity of the -Virgin[487]: "Happy be thou in all respects, O Probatica, ancient temple -of the seed of Joachim, but now a church!" Phocas mentions it in his -description of the remarkable places of Antioch and Jerusalem. Other -authors, from Saewulf to William of Tyre, name it, and all agree in -placing it on the same spot, and repeating the tradition; but none of -them give us any certain clue to the history of its foundation. As every -one expresses his own opinion on this point, I will follow the general -example[488]. That the church was in existence before the Crusaders -entered Jerusalem is evident from the Arabian historians; for Abulfeda -tells us that under the rule of the Khalifs, before the Franks gained -possession of Jerusalem, the Church of S. Ann was converted into a -college for public instruction[489]. Again, Saewulf visited it A.D. 1103, -that is, in the first four years of the Latin kingdom, when as yet they -had not thought about building churches. William of Tyre[490] relates -that three or four nuns inhabited the adjoining convent; which is also a -proof of its existence previous to the Crusades; because so small a -number of sisters would not have had the means of building such a -church. Now the remarkable edifices which were erected during the whole -period of the Latin kingdom are recorded by several writers; and many -manuscripts of this age have come down to us. Considering the importance -of this Sanctuary (the supposed birthplace of the Virgin), and the -station in life of those who there dedicated themselves to the monastic -life under the rule of S. Benedict, we can draw but one conclusion from -their silence; namely, that the present building is older than the -Crusades. But further, Arda, wife of Baldwin I., being repudiated by her -husband, entered the convent A.D. 1104, and liberally endowed it. -William of Tyre[491] speaks of her munificence, and also of the unseemly -manner in which she quitted the place. Why then does not he mention the -church? Jueta or Gioeta, daughter of Baldwin II., in 1130, dedicated -herself to the monastic life, and lived in the convent until that of S. -Lazarus at Bethany was finished, which was built for her by her sister -Milisendis. On this occasion also William of Tyre[492] mentions the -buildings, but not the church. - -M. de Vogue[493] writes as follows: "Towards the middle of the twelfth -century, John of Wuertzburg expresses wonder at the number of the nuns -(who followed the rule of S. Benedict), and at their devotion; and -mentions the church; meaning, I think, on this occasion, the church now -remaining." I cannot agree with this opinion, for the reason that, had -the church been rebuilt, the author would not have omitted to mention -it, since it would have been one of the first buildings erected under -the Latin kingdom. If the plates be examined[494], I need not enter into -details, as they will be found sufficiently clear; but will only call -attention to the shape of the church (a trapezium)[495]; a plan which I -think prevents us from attributing it to the time of the Crusaders. I am -therefore induced to consider it as originally a Byzantine building, -which was restored by them. From Plate LXIII. we see that the Church of -S. Cross has the pointed arch like that of S. Ann, and is still -plainer[496]. Now the former was standing when the Persians under -Chosroes II. invaded the country; as is stated by Georgian manuscripts -in the Greek convent of S. Constantine at Jerusalem. Hence the presence -of pointed arches does not forbid us to suppose that S. Ann's Church was -also built before the Crusades. M. de Vogue[497] says "that the last two -western piers (inside the church) are much more massive than the rest, -and were intended to sustain bell-towers." With this I do not agree, -because the difference in size is imperceptible; indeed, perhaps they -are even smaller than the rest: and further, I do not find the walls at -the north-west and south-west corners sufficiently strong to support -towers; on the contrary, through their weakness they have fallen greatly -to ruin; and lastly, I find no traces of them on the roof. Until then -stronger arguments are brought forward than have hitherto been, I retain -the opinion expressed above; which is, I believe, sustained by history -and the place itself. - -In the church we must not omit to notice the dome as belonging to a date -posterior to the original building, but a little prior to the minaret at -the south-west corner, a large part of which is still standing. - -When Saladin took Jerusalem, A.D. 1187, he established various -institutions for the Mohammedans; and among others founded a school, -A.D. 1192, in the Church of S. Ann, after repairing the injuries caused -by the destruction of the neighbouring convent. The Arabic inscription -on the entrance-gate on the west records this event. It runs as follows: -"In the name of God, kind and merciful! All the blessings ye enjoy come -from God! This sacred _Medresse_ (School) has been founded by the -victorious King, our Master, Salah-ed-Din, Sultan of Islam, and of the -Mohammedans. Abul Muzafar Yusef, son of Eyub, son of Sciasi, has given -life to the empire of the Head of the Faithful. May God bless his -victories, and pour out His bounty upon him, in this world and in the -next. This institution has been founded for the doctors of the rite of -Imam Abu-Abdallah Mohammed, son of Edris-es-Shafei. May God grant him -mercy. The year five hundred and eighty-eight[498]." This school was -deserted in the fifteenth century, owing to the want of means to carry -it on, caused by malversation on the part of its managers. We have seen -what its condition was in 1767. In 1842 Tayar Pasha entertained the -design of re-opening the school, and with that view ordered the interior -to be repaired, and the minaret to be built. The latter however was -never finished, because the builders and stone-masons of Bethlehem (some -of whom told me the circumstances) got on slowly with the work, and even -threw many of the stones prepared for building into the cisterns; acting -thus because they were unwilling to see a place sacred to Christians -profaned by the Mohammedans. By examining the spot, I proved the truth -of the workmen's story; for I found a quantity of prepared materials in -a cistern on the west, and also in another on the south of the church. -Into these I descended before the place was examined by the three French -architects who were sent, one after the other, to Jerusalem to begin the -repairs; which are now progressing well under the superintendence of M. -Mauss, a young man of distinction and great promise. Within the church, -under the choir, is a crypt in which the rock is exposed. There, -according to an old tradition, was the abode of S. Joachim and S. Ann; -and there the Virgin Mary was born. It was already known in the seventh -century, and the first who mentions it is S. John Damascenus[499]. It is -difficult to see what authority can be found to establish the truth of -the tradition. It is doubtful whether the Virgin was born at Jerusalem -or Nazareth; but even supposing she was born at the former place, why -did S. Ann live in a crypt? Surely there were houses in Jerusalem! I -think that the church was simply dedicated to S. Ann. We find in a -manuscript, preserved in the Latin Convent of S. Saviour, that a passage -formerly ran from this church to the Tomb of Mary in the Kidron Valley; -but all my attempts to discover its opening into the interior of the -church were unavailing; perhaps it may be buried under the ruins of the -Convent. In the Tomb of Mary, at the extremity of the western arm of the -cross, there is a doorway closed with masonry, which cannot be seen from -the outside, because of the accumulation of earth. In 1858 a Greek monk -was working in a plot of land on the western bank of the Kidron Valley, -at no great distance from the tomb, and found a cistern, very long from -east to west, hollowed out in the rock, its walls being covered with a -strong cement. When I heard of this I went to examine it, and by -striking the walls inferred the existence of two openings, one on the -east, the other on the west. Perhaps they communicated with the -subterranean passage; and the reason why they are in these positions, -may be that the cistern was made by widening the passage which was -already on the spot. I trust that the architect in charge of the -restoration at S. Ann's Church may be able to discover these -subterranean passages. I do not describe the insignificant remains of -the Convent of Benedictine nuns, because they possess nothing of -interest. Not a capital nor a shaft of a column is to be found among the -shapeless fragments of ruins, which reveal nothing of their former -splendour, nay, not so much as whether they could have been ever -beautiful. - -The Church of the Magdalene (called _Maimonieh_ by the Arabs) is -situated to the north-west of the Church of S. Ann, and to the -south-east of Herod's Gate. According to tradition it stands on the site -of the house of Simon the Pharisee, where the penitent sinner washed the -Saviour's feet with tears, and wiped them with the hairs of her head. S. -Luke[500] does not mention the place at which this circumstance -occurred. The three other Evangelists[501] state that it happened at -Bethany, so that I cannot admit the truth of the tradition without -denying that of the Bible; consequently I consider the church as only -dedicated to the memory of the penitent Magdalene. All that now remains -of this building is the porch, part of the choir, and the side walls, -which are left standing at irregular heights above the ground; -everything else is a heap of ruins, overgrown with creeping plants; and -in the middle a potter carries on his craft of making pipes, water-pots, -and the like. It is commonly said to be the property of the Greek -Convent, but I am not certain whether this is true. I removed the -rubbish from the interior to search for the remains of pillars, in the -hope of being able to ascertain the plan of the building; but my labours -were fruitless, and I must therefore refer my reader to M. de Vogue's -work[502], only observing that the Church of the Magdalene does not (as -he asserts) belong to the same class of churches as that of S. Ann, for -the former is a rectangle in plan, the latter a trapezium. For the rest -I highly appreciate the labour he has bestowed upon the subject; but, as -I have not been fortunate enough to verify his discoveries in my -subsequent visits to the spot, I cannot say whether the church belongs -to the era of the Crusades, or to an earlier period. I cannot however -admit that it can be called a French work[503], because the Crusaders -were not French alone, but of many different nations. The same author -writes, "The only contemporaneous documents which we possess relating to -the Magdalene Church are in the account of John of Wuertzburg, and in the -Cartulary. He tells us that it was served by the Jacobite monks. 'Near -the city-wall, not far from S. Ann's on the north, is the Church of S. -Mary Magdalene, occupied by the Jacobite monks. These assert that it -stands on the site of the house of Simon the Leper.... A cross marked on -the pavement of the church indicates (according to the same monks) the -spot where Mary knelt at the feet of Jesus[504].' The Cartulary contains -the title of an agreement[505] between the Latin Canons of the Holy -Sepulchre and the Jacobite monks of S. Mary Magdalene. The document is -not dated, but from the signatures it must have been written about A.D. -1160. After Jerusalem had been taken by the Saracens the church was -converted into a school, and was called _Maimonieh_, the name it still -bears among the Mohammedans. 'The school of _Maimun_' (writes -Mejir-ed-Din) 'near to the gate of the city called Sahera, was formerly -a Greek church (i.e. Christian): it was endowed in 593 (A.D. 1197) by -the Emir Faris-ed-Din-Abu-Said-Maimun, son of Abdallah-el-Kasri, -treasurer of King Salah-ed-Din.'" Let us now consider the testimony -quoted above. John of Wuertzburg undertook his journey after the middle -of the twelfth century, and found the Jacobites already established in -the Magdalene Church. Now if the church had been built by the Crusaders, -the pilgrim would have been sure to mention it, nor would they have been -likely to give it up to the Jacobites. I believe that the Canons allowed -it to remain the property of the Jacobites, because it had originally -belonged to them. It also appears to me that the names of the Canons -must be exactly known before it can be proved, on the evidence of the -signatures alone, that the agreement was made in A.D. 1160. Again, why -are the words of Mejir-ed-Din[506], 'a Greek church,' necessarily to be -taken as equivalent to a Christian church? I maintain that Saladin and -his followers were too well acquainted with the difference between the -Latins and the Greeks to make this slip in a public document. I am -therefore inclined to believe that the church had been built before the -arrival of the Crusaders, and that possibly it might have been injured -during the siege, and repaired afterwards by the Jacobites, who were for -that reason allowed to retain it. I cannot adopt any other theory, -because I am unable to understand the Crusaders giving a church to the -Jacobites, who were considered heretical after A.D. 541, because they -maintained that there was but one (the divine) nature in Christ, and -were therefore called Monophysites. - -On the east of the Chapel of the Flagellation is an ancient chapel, -called _Deir Addas_ by the Mohammedans, and by the Christians, the -Chapel of the Nativity of the Virgin. It is now used as a warehouse. -There is no mention of it in any ancient documents; and it is very -small, being not more than 16 feet wide, with a dome about 10 feet in -diameter. Perhaps it is owing to its insignificance that there is no -dispute about the founders. Its masonry shews that it is older than the -time of the Crusades. - -On the north of the Austrian hospice is the ancient Church of S. Peter, -now converted into a mosque, and kept by the dancing Dervishes. Its plan -consists of a nave with two side aisles of equal length, terminated by -semicircular apses; they are divided by two perfectly plain piers on -each side, sustaining a vaulted roof, with sharp groins, and supported -by pointed arches. The total length of the building (inside) is 40 feet -2 inches, the nave is 10 feet wide from pier to pier, while the north -aisle is 5-1/2 feet, and that on the south, owing to an irregularity in -the wall, is a little narrower, being about 5-1/4 feet. It is difficult -to assign a date to this church, because it is not mentioned by ancient -authors, and is built in a mixture of several styles. Some think that it -belonged to the order of the Knights of S. Lazarus, whose mission was to -succour and cure, if possible, the lepers. From this order has arisen -that of S. Maurice and S. Lazarus of the kingdom of Italy. - -On returning to the central valley we find, exactly at the vaulted -passage under the house of Dives, a street rising westward (which I -consider to have been the true way of the Cross,) and on the south side -of it is a building (several centuries old), of Saracenic architecture, -having doorways elegantly ornamented with arabesques and mosaics, and -with white, red, and black stones found in Palestine[507]. This is -considered, by the Christians, to be the hospital built by the Empress -Helena; and it is said by tradition to have been erected before the -church of the Resurrection, in order to accommodate the labourers -engaged upon it, and to have been afterwards devoted to the reception of -poor pilgrims. I admit the truth of the tradition, but not that the -present building is of that date, for it is entirely Saracenic work. -The Mohammedans call it Tekhiyeh el-Khasseki-Sultane (Convent of the -favourite Sultana), and from documents which they possess in the -_Mekhemeh_ concerning the registers of landed property, it is clear that -it was built by the Sultana Rossellane, the favourite consort of Solyman -the Magnificent, who established there a hospice for the poor and the -pilgrims. It is shewn by the same authorities that the Sultana had -obtained large revenues from the Sultan for the support of this charity, -consisting of an annual tax paid by the villagers of Bethlehem, Bethany, -and Beitjala, together with the fees paid by the Christians on entering -the Church of the Holy Sepulchre. This fact is also confirmed by an -Arabic inscription on a stone built into the wall near the entrance to -the Church of the Holy Sepulchre, at a height of 8 or 9 feet above the -ground. This charitable foundation is still daily at work, but on a -reduced scale, owing to its diminished income. I think, then, that this -charity may have been commenced by S. Helena (whence its name); then -continued by the Latins after her death, and during the Crusades; and -kept up by the Mohammedans after their conquest of Jerusalem, till it -was finally enlarged and enriched by Rossellane; who also built large -rooms there, and resided in it herself to minister to the poor and -destitute; as is stated in the Mohammedan traditions, and in the -chronicles preserved in the mosque _Kubbet es-Sakharah_. - -We will now take a survey of its exterior and interior. At the first -glance the negligence of its managers is evident; for a grand and -magnificent building, the finest in the city, which, if in good order, -would be very useful to the Governor of the place, is becoming every day -more ruinous, without any attempt being made to repair it. In 1859 -Surraya Pasha was desirous of restoring it, and commissioned me to make -a plan, which he afterwards forwarded to Constantinople; but he was not -seconded by the higher authorities, and in course of time the place will -fall down, unless (as is much to be desired) it be purchased by one of -the wealthier Christian communities. During my investigations in the -interior I found the rock, which in one part forms a slope rising -westward, in which place steps are to be seen four feet wide, but not -more than two inches high. These, I think, may be the remains of the -street that went up to Golgotha; because it is in the direction of the -south-west corner of the tower Antonia (as placed by me). The north -facade is built of well-wrought stones of different colours, skilfully -laid with even joints, especially in the door-posts, where lead is -employed instead of mortar. By this side the guides generally conduct -the visitor into the building. On the ground-floor on the east are shewn -several chambers, where the food, distributed among the poor, is -prepared. One, of great size, has a well constructed vaulted roof -supported by piers: it is occupied by horse-mills, which grind the corn -for the establishment; but the millstones are almost useless, the -fittings broken, and the horses only are excellent, as they belong to -the managers, and therefore work little, and feed well. In another place -the bread is made and baked, and is by no means bad. The chamber next -the oven is used as a granary; in this are two large brass caldrons 6 -feet in diameter and 5-1/2 deep, which are no longer used, being too -large. The place which serves as a kitchen is remarkable for its -architecture and its central dome; and I believe that originally it was -a bath-room; it is now all begrimed with dirt, the pavement is broken, -and only one caldron (5 feet in diameter and 4 deep) over a large -furnace is in use; four others are seen as a reproach to the managers, -who keep them unworked, and leave them to be destroyed by the damp, so -that they may then sell them as worthless. In the one in use a quantity -of wheat is boiled, and after being seasoned with good oil, is -distributed among the poor, each of whom also receives from two to four -loaves. This dole is given to all who apply for it, without regard to -their religion. On the great Mohammedan festivals a good piece of meat -is also given to each, with plenty of rice and honey, which are -furnished by the wealthy proprietors, who have made their fortunes out -of the hospital. As this building is assigned to S. Helena by the -Christians, so also are the caldrons. What excellent brass they must be -to have lasted in use from A.D. 326 to the present time! In order to -mount to the upper story it is necessary to leave these rooms and go to -the door opening into the street, more to the west. Let the visitor now -beware where he sets his foot, for a heap of filth covers up several -steps of the stairs, which are flooded in winter with rain-water from -the ruined terrace-roofs, and infested by vermin in summer. It is -therefore better to go round by the central valley to the south gate, -and so avoid the nuisance. I speak from experience. - -On the south is a fine pointed doorway, with well-carved ornaments in -good relief, leading into a spacious hall, in which are medallions -containing good arabesques. Beyond this is a very large court surrounded -by a cloister with pointed arches, which also have arabesques in their -details. The hall, the cloister, and the court, are now only used to -shelter the camels and horses of the first comers; consequently they are -in a filthy state, and their ornaments are daily being destroyed. A -spiral staircase in the north-east corner of the hall leads to the upper -floor, where is a Gothic window of two lights, with a marble column as -mullion, crowned by an elegant arabesque capital. After going over this -floor and mounting to the roof, we see the remains of a splendid -apartment with all the requisites of a Mohammedan _Harem_[508]; but here -care is necessary to avoid a fall. The view from the summit of the -terrace is far from uninteresting; the whole _Haram es-Sherif_ is well -seen, with a considerable extent of the central valley, the hill Acra -(as placed by me) full in view, and also Bezetha, separated from Moriah, -and rising above it. Here the student and the archaeologist will form a -good idea of the topography of the ancient city; and the descriptions -of Josephus, especially with reference to Acra and Bezetha, will be -readily understood. - -Opposite to S. Helena's Hospital on the north is a Saracenic house, -apparently of the same date, which is in a very unsafe state. In the -south facade is a great number of delicately wrought and interesting -arabesques. It is used by certain Mohammedans, who meet there for -prayer. They belong to an order of Dervishes, who are very free from -fanaticism, and employed in doing good. When I speak of the convents -belonging to the different sects, I will give a fuller account of them. - -To the south of the House of Dives is seen on the east side of the road -the front of a Saracenic fountain[509], which (as is stated by an -inscription) belongs to the age of Solyman. To avoid repetition, I may -mention that all the fountains in Jerusalem, so far as regards their -ornamentation, belong to the same epoch. It is now dry, because the -revenues, destined to supply it with water and repair its conduit, have -been absorbed by their former managers. - -Keeping along the valley towards the south we come to a street leading -up to Temple Street; following this westward, we find on the left, after -a few yards, a Saracenic doorway, the ornamental details of which are -elegant and well executed[510]. It was the entrance to a boys' school -for Mohammedans, founded by Omar, and afterwards enriched by Saladin; -but a mass of ruins is the only memorial remaining of their liberality. -Near this gate on the west is a street; and at the beginning of this, an -opening in the ground covered with a large slab, giving admission into a -passage leading to the Fountain of the Virgin in the Kidron valley; of -which I shall speak again at greater length. - -Opposite to the above-named gate is an ancient edifice, which, from the -masonry, may be attributed to Saladin or Solyman; it is called by the -Mohammedan chronicle the Hospital of Omar. I have examined the interior, -and it appears to me, from the arrangement of some of the principal -walls, to have been a church in the days of the Latin kingdom, most -probably the Church of S. Giles, mentioned by various writers of the -time of the Crusades[511]. The Saracenic architecture in its facade may -have been the addition of one of the two above-named Sultans, and shews -how rich the neighbourhood of Jerusalem is in fine coloured stones, -which take a polish like marble. Many of these are fastened together -with lead without mortar. This building might be thoroughly restored for -a small sum of money; but it is involved in the same destiny as all the -other ancient buildings belonging to the Mohammedans in Jerusalem, and -unless it be sold will soon be a heap of ruins. - -In a small street on the west of the above is an ancient edifice, which -shews the hand of a skilful architect in the regularity of its facade, -and the arrangement of its inner walls. The wall of the former consists -of small stones with deeply-cut rustic-work up to the level of the first -floor; along which runs a very plain cornice beneath a row of -square-headed windows, also crowned with a projecting cornice. The -remainder of the facade is constructed of polished stones accurately -laid. In the ground-floor rooms, now converted into offices, are the -shafts and capitals of columns, and from the general appearance of the -building we may infer that it has been a chapel. Local traditions state -that it once belonged to the Germans; and it is not impossible that it -may have been a dependency of the establishment that afterwards gave -birth to the Teutonic order of knights. Returning to the Hospital of -Omar, and following the small street opposite to it, we arrive, after -crossing the central valley, at the spot on the western wall of the -_Haram_, where the Jews (as we have already mentioned[512]) come to -bewail the calamities of their nation. The stranger who visits the place -when the unhappy sons of Israel are gathered together there, returns -saddened by the sight of their grief. Ceaselessly swaying their bodies -from side to side, they utter their prayers in a wailing chant, broken -by sighs and sobs, as they kneel among the ruins of their departed -grandeur, a feeble and waning remnant in their fatherland. This -continual motion, as I was informed, is in memory of the wandering of -their ancestors, during the forty years that elapsed between their -exodus from Egypt and their entry into Canaan. Having easy access to the -_Haram_, and the power of introducing any person with me, I several -times offered to take various Jews into the place, and shew them the -true remains of the Temple of Solomon and of Herod; but they always -refused for the following reason. When the Temple was destroyed a great -number of holy vessels were buried in the ruins; therefore every Jew in -the Holy City refrains from visiting the sacred enclosure, for fear of -treading upon their dust, and so confines himself to lamenting outside -the wall. If one of them enters the _Haram_ (so they told me), he is -excommunicated by the chief Rabbi, and expelled by the whole body as a -sacrilegious person. All rules, however, have their exceptions, and so -has this; for Baron de Rothschild and Sir M. Montefiore, on the occasion -of their visit to Jerusalem, obtained permission from the authorities -and entered the _Haram_. This greatly displeased many of their brethren, -who grumbled loudly at it in secret; but the excommunication was not -fulminated; perhaps because they remembered that these gentlemen had -liberally aided in supporting them in times past, and were likely to do -so for the future; and consequently thought it would be very foolish to -offend them by an act of ignorant fanaticism. - -Returning by the same street, we will now enter the Jewish Quarter and -visit the synagogues. The great ancient synagogue may be compared to a -vaulted cave; the way into which is down a badly constructed and worse -kept staircase. Some piers which were formerly ornamented with -wood-carvings and gilding (of which some slight traces still remain) -sustain the roof of these subterranean chambers, many parts of which -threaten to fall down. They are lighted by the feeble rays that struggle -through the broken panes of the closely grated windows. The place is -always damp, both from its low situation, and from the water which runs -into it during the winter-rains by the staircase, the windows, and the -leaky vaulted roof. Round the upper part of the chamber latticed wooden -galleries are built; but these are so separated one from another, and so -patched from repeated repairs, that they look more fit to be fowl-pens -than seats for the women, who seem to me to occupy a very dangerous -position. Below are shattered, rotten, worm-eaten benches, haunted by -swarms of voracious fleas, which are occupied by the men. At the end of -each chamber is a kind of wooden cupboard, with more or less tasteless -ornament about it, in the middle of which is the tabernacle, usually -covered with a torn curtain, which on festival days only is replaced by -another, given by some European benefactress. The tabernacle contains -nothing but a copy of the Scriptures, written on parchment rolls. The -tables of the law are kept with a holy veneration in the principal of -these chambers, wrapped up in a purple cloth embroidered with gold. -While the services are going on, each Israelite has upon his head a -piece of striped blue and white woollen cloth, edged with a cord, which -hangs down from each corner. Many also wear a little box on their -foreheads in which a copy of the ten commandments or of some other -passages of Scripture is enclosed[513]. When the Rabbins unroll the -parchment before the worshippers, each draws near to touch it reverently -with the end of one of the cords of his veil. The sad and solemn -psalmody of the Doctors of the law, answered by verses of the Bible -recited by all the people, with sighs and every manifestation of -profound grief, produces a feeling of compassion for this unhappy -remnant of Israel, whose constancy and resignation under so long and -heavy a burden seem to deserve a better fate. - -What I have said of this synagogue may also be applied to the rest, -which, as they are smaller, so are they more inconvenient, and in a -still more ruinous condition. During my stay in the city a new synagogue -was built on the eastern slope of Sion, called the Polish. It rises -majestically, and its dome dominates over a large portion of the city, -but I know too well that it will not last long, as its foundations are -bad; because the master-mason who directed the work had not sufficiently -examined the ground, and so mistook its nature. They were laid in a -great measure on ancient walls, which, not so much from ignorance of -their existence, as from a mistaken economy, were not properly examined. -Therefore when the new walls were finished, and the greater part of the -dome completed, cracks, caused by a settlement, appeared all along the -building. Consequently it became necessary to strengthen the foundations -and to modify the design of the facade by closing up arches and windows, -and using iron tie-rods. At present it seems likely to stand for some -years; but not for a long period, as its materials and masonry are not -very strong. - -A German synagogue on the east of the Polish, reached by threading a -labyrinth of dirty lanes, is now being repaired. Those in charge of the -work have begun to restore the facade, over which they have wasted a -great quantity of money in loading it with useless ornament; and have -paid no attention to the interior, which, in my opinion, should be the -first consideration: consequently they are now at a standstill for want -of funds. There are other small synagogues in the Jewish Quarter, but -these are not worth notice, being only rooms used for that purpose. - -Quitting the Jewish Quarter by its south side in order to reach the Sion -Gate, we come upon the Armenian property, and stop a little to examine -their churches. In the outer wall of the Convent, close to the Gate of -David, is a small chapel, said to occupy the site of the house of Annas -the High-Priest, father-in-law to Caiaphas[514], whither our Saviour was -brought after he had been made prisoner at Gethsemane. The tradition is -not very old, and is of little value, because, after so large a part of -the city towards the south has been destroyed, and the whole greatly -changed by the ravages of Titus's army and other causes, it is highly -improbable that the site of a house can be exactly fixed. -Adrichomius[515] says of this chapel, "the house of Annas, father-in-law -to Caiaphas, where afterwards the Church of the Holy Angels was built." -It is small, but divided into a nave and two side aisles by two pillars, -which sustain the vaulted roof. - -Outside this chapel, near the wall, is a very old olive-tree, which -gives rise to the Arab name _Deir-Zeitun_ (Convent of the Olive). It -certainly is not so old as the time of our Saviour, as it could not have -escaped the ravages of the Roman troops, and besides, is growing upon a -thick mass of rubbish. The Armenian monks relate that the Saviour was -tied to it when he was brought to the High-Priest's house; and in -consequence of this legend, the Christians (especially those of the -East) hold the tree in great veneration, and think themselves happy if -they can procure a little piece of it. On this point I may adopt the -words of the Abbe Mariti[516]. "In order to check the rush of devotees -upon this tree, and to preserve the advantages resulting from it, the -Armenians have surrounded it with a wall to prevent the faithful from -approaching near to it. Of its fruit they make rosaries, which they -present to pilgrims, who requite the donors with large gifts. In order -to increase the fervour of devotion they keep a lamp burning near the -tree, the oil of which is said by the monks to have worked miracles;" -and therefore has a ready sale among the credulous. - -The Church of S. James the Great, one of the best in Palestine, belongs -to the Armenians. Its founder is not positively known, but it was -certainly built after the departure of the Crusaders from Jerusalem. It -is generally thought that it was one of the Spanish Kings, probably -Peter of Arragon, who in 1362, being on terms of amity with the Sultan, -gave large gifts to the Holy Land. The name of the church (after the -patron Saint of Spain), and tradition, are in favour of this -supposition. After the Mohammedan conquest of the city, the Armenians -doubtless occupied it and the adjoining convents, but it is stated in -Jerusalem (by the Franciscans) that in the time of Ibrahim Pasha, A.D. -1837, when the Armenians were obliged to prove their title to certain -parts of the convent and church by producing documents, they had none in -their archives, and, under false pretences, came to the Franciscans to -see if they had preserved any. This would shew that they had some doubt -themselves to their right to the property they enjoy. However, one of -their members (a respectable Armenian from Constantinople) to whom I -mentioned this, asking him whether it were true, asserted that they had, -besides firmans of Omar Kotab, of Saladin, and others, one from Mohammed -himself. This he affirmed with shouts and gesticulations, and with every -sign which an Oriental uses to impress his hearer with a belief in his -veracity. He promised to shew me this document, but some how or other -never found an opportunity, although, unquestionably, the monks do -exhibit it to credulous pilgrims. The church is well worth notice. It is -said to stand on the spot where the Saint was martyred[517], but it -would be difficult to prove the truth of the tradition. The facade[518] -is very plain, and of later date than the rest of the building. It has a -porch where the Easterns leave their shoes before entering the doors; -both from reverence, and to avoid injuring the marble pavement and rich -Persian carpets. In the upper part of the porch is a gallery, occupied -by the women during service, so that they are separated from the men. -The interior is divided into a nave and two side aisles, of different -dimensions, by four large piers, and is lighted by a graceful dome. On -the walls are pictures, which are very remarkable both from the subjects -and style of painting; for example, in depicting the souls in purgatory, -the artist seems to have had before his mind one of Dante's divisions of -Hell. There is a profusion of gilding and mosaic work; the latter is -admirable, being composed of the different breccias abundant in the -country. The design of the inlaid work of mother-of-pearl and -tortoise-shell is remarkably good; and, in a word, the whole church is -kept in such excellent order, that it is an honour to its owners. On the -right hand we find, on entering, a small chapel richly ornamented with -marble and inlaid work, where the supposed spot of the Saint's martyrdom -is shewn. The Latin monks are permitted by the Armenians to celebrate -mass here on the festival of the Saint. On the same side, but nearer the -entrance, is the treasury, which is worth a visit, not so much for the -gems it contains as for certain Armenian antiquities, among which the -most remarkable are some sceptres of the ancient kings, and a staff made -of a single piece of amber 3-1/2 feet long. A piece of the true Cross, -three inches long and as thick as the third finger, enclosed in a casket -enriched with precious stones, is preserved among the numerous relics. -The Latins assert that it belongs to them, and was appropriated by the -Armenians when they were exposed to persecution. In the Chapel of S. -Miazim is a box containing three large stones, which the monks exhibit -with great reverence, stating that one came from Mount Horeb, another -from the Jordan, and the third from Mount Tabor. Thus far I can believe -them; but, in order to render them more marvellous, they say that they -formed part of the twelve stones which the children of Israel set up in -the Jordan[519]. The Armenians had discovered this fact before A.D. -1628, because it was related to and believed by a certain Alberto -Follesi, a Florentine of that date. They have the property of -foretelling rain and wind. - -On leaving the Church of S. James, and following the street to the -north, we find, on the right, a small arch opening on to a street -running eastward; and going some little distance along this, we see, on -the left, a ruined chapel, which, at the time of the Crusades, was the -traditional site of S. Peter's prison[520]. - -Keeping along the street which turns to the north we reach the Syrian -convent, in which is a church said to stand upon the site of the House -of S. Mark, whither S. Peter went on his release from prison[521]. Here -a font is shewn, which is asserted to be the one used for the Virgin -Mary. Besides this there is nothing else remarkable within. It is really -surprising how the Christians at Jerusalem have preserved all the -traditions of the most ordinary localities, and been able to discover -the exact spots after all the changes and injuries the city has -undergone! Behind the English church and near the English hospital is -the small Church of S. James the Less; its plan is an oblong of 32 feet -by 19. The choir, with a cornice running round it on the inside, is -still to be seen. It is said to occupy the site of the ancient House of -S. James. - -The English church was built in 1841. It is a cruciform Gothic building, -which style (in my opinion) is altogether out of place in Jerusalem. The -interior is not remarkable. The services are performed with propriety, -and it is the only church free from the insect-plagues of Jerusalem, -and in which the visitor can pray undisturbed by noise or laughter; -because the number of worshippers is small, and the Eastern Christians -are not attracted there by any pomp or ceremony. I may venture to add, -that perhaps this latter circumstance is the reason why the number of -proselytes does not increase in proportion to the benevolent exertions -of the Jews' Society. Both its members, and the zealous missionaries who -from time to time sojourn in the country, should not be ignorant of the -nature of the spirit with which they daily have to deal in the East, and -should know that the greatest obstacle to their success is the severe -form of their religion. The Oriental dislikes reading, and is averse to -hearing sermons, which he either does not understand or is wearied by. -He is more gained over by the eye than by the ear, and is with -difficulty persuaded that a priest in a black gown or plain white -surplice can be as important a person as one of his 'Papas,' who wears a -magnificent vestment in the church, shouts and chants loudly, and makes -a thousand signs of the cross, and as many genuflexions. More ceremony -and a more elaborate ritual would contribute greatly to the success of -the English missionaries, whose excellent organization and conduct -deserves all praise. - -Nearly opposite to the above is the citadel of Jerusalem, called the -Castle of David, or of the Pisans. I have already spoken[522] of all the -objects of antiquarian interest which are to be seen there; and have -nothing to add beyond expressing my surprise at the carelessness of the -government in suffering every part of it to fall into decay. The -garrison of the city is not quartered there, but only a guard is posted -at the entrance, to prevent any one from going inside who is not -furnished with an order from the Commandant of the place. The reason of -this strictness is that part of it is used as a powder magazine; and -besides, some cannon are kept there, most of which are useless, as they -have been spiked or battered. Formerly various pieces of armour of the -time of the Crusades, which had been found in the neighbourhood of the -city and in other parts of Palestine, were preserved here, but the -collection has been dispersed. Some of the principal officers of the -garrison thought fit to represent to the department of artillery at -Constantinople, that it would be a good plan to dispose of them, as they -were articles of no value. The requisite order was quickly given, and -then, according to the usual custom of the government, the money was -kept back from the exchequer and used for private purposes. The -traveller who mounts to the top of the tower will be well repaid by the -general view of the surrounding country. The scenery is unattractive and -almost saddening; ranges of arid hills enclose the city, white with bare -faces of heated rock, whereon no herbage grows. Both near and far these -are dotted over with ruined Arab cottages, with little mosques and -tombs; and when the eye turns aside to range over the intervening -fields, it finds nothing more pleasing on which to repose. Everywhere is -barrenness, everywhere desolation; below there seems to lie a city of -the dead rather than of the living; around, a land of tombs rather than -of men. - -Going from the citadel along the street toward the north-west we arrive -at the Latin Convent of S. Saviour, within which is the parish-church of -the same title. On each side two pillars supporting the very low vaulted -roof divide the nave from the two side aisles. In front of the high -altar rises a little slightly-depressed dome, and opposite to it is the -choir with well-carved stalls. The size of the building in length and -breadth is also very small in comparison with the number of people -frequenting it. For many years past the monks have had a plan for -enlarging it; but they have always been prevented from carrying their -design into effect by the prohibition of the authorities; and so the -Latins have to suffer from heat or damp according to the season of the -year. It is therefore to be hoped that the place will soon be made more -commodious. - -Besides the churches and chapels which I have already noticed, many -others are indicated either by ruins, or tradition, or history -(especially by the chronicles of the time of the Crusades[523]); but as -they are now destroyed, or at least no longer used for worship, and -their remains are not of any interest, I pass them over in silence. It -is stated[524] that at the time of the Crusades the Christians possessed -as many as three hundred and sixty-five churches and monasteries in -Jerusalem. I now proceed to mention those convents which still belong to -the different religious communities, the number of which is far below -that just mentioned. - -The Latin Convent of S. Saviour is the chief and greatest of those -belonging to the Guardians of the Holy Land. Here dwell the Superiors of -the Friars Minor of the Order of S. Francis; and consequently from it -orders and instructions are issued to all the rest of the convents, -which are dependencies of the Holy Guardianship, in Constantinople, -Egypt, Cyprus, Syria, and Palestine. The site of the building is one of -the best in Jerusalem, as it stands on the highest part of Mount Gareb, -near the north-west corner of the city-wall, and there looks down upon -the greater part of the city. It resembles a castle rather than a -convent; but this is due to the additions made by the monks during the -three centuries it has been in their hands, rather than to its original -design. The first abode of the Franciscans was on Mount Sion (which I -will describe in speaking of the 'Coenaculum'), but being dispossessed -by the Mohammedans A.D. 1550, they were obliged to occupy a place on -the same hill, called from its smallness the 'Oven.' In course of time, -being assisted by contributions from Europe, they hired from the -Georgians the Convent of S. Saviour (then called _Deir 'Amud_, Convent -of the Column), where they established themselves on a surer footing -inside the city. This they afterwards purchased from the proprietors, -A.D. 1559, by the favour of the Sublime Porte, who imposed on them hard -conditions[525]. The price of the ground was 1000 sultanins (about -L120), and that of the buildings 1200 Venetian sequins; but as the -property was much too small they obtained permission to increase it, -A.D. 1561, and again on other occasions, and so gradually brought it to -its present condition. The earliest part of the convent is that which is -round the church. There are two entrances, a large door on the south -side, and a small one on the west; both are strengthened and defended -with iron, a necessary precaution in a country where the power of -self-defence is requisite in case of popular tumults; which now, -however, very rarely occur. By entering the great door we can visit the -ground-floor of the convent, in which we find many large cisterns, hewn -in the rock, and supplied by the rains. When there is a drought in the -country, the poor Latins, and not seldom the Mohammedans, draw their -supplies of water from these. Here we see all the offices required by a -great convent that entertains and supports a large number of pilgrims, -such as gardens and courts, stables, extensive cellars, storehouses for -food, wood, and charcoal, horse-mills, ovens, and forges; shops for -carpenters, turners, shoemakers, and wax-candles; a dispensary well -supplied with medicines, and zealously and efficiently served, always -liberally open to all comers; and lastly, a printing-press, which though -small is admirably managed, and annually publishes books on religious -subjects in Arabic, Latin, Italian, and other languages; the type being -cast on the premises. In the upper story are the monks' cells, the -apartment of the Guardian of the Holy Land, and that of the Procurer -General, an infirmary, reserved for the brethren, workshops, in some of -which the vestments are made, in others the clothing of the monks; a -shop where the manufactures of the Holy Land are sold, such as rosaries, -shell-work, crosses, and the like[526]; a library containing some most -valuable manuscripts and many excellent books; and finally, the Church -of S. Saviour (mentioned above), with the adjoining sacristy. In this a -very great number of objects are preserved, valuable not only for the -intrinsic worth of the precious metals and jewels which they contain, -but also for the work of the artists who made them. These are but rarely -shewn, and the more splendid have not seen the light for years. They are -the gifts of many of the European courts in past and present times, and -of countries which have had a love for the Holy Land. The convent -ordinarily contains about fifty inmates, clerics and laics; but can hold -a much greater number; as in fact it does at the Easter festivals. - -The Latin Patriarchate is a house belonging to the Franciscans, which -was intended for a hospice. In 1859 the foundations of the new -Patriarchate were laid near the north-west corner of the city. It is not -yet finished, but before long Jerusalem will possess a good new house, -which, while convenience is not sacrificed to vain show, will be -internally well arranged. M. Valerga himself drew the plan. - -Opposite to the Latin Convent of S. Saviour on the south, is that of the -Sisters of S. Joseph, who have been lodged in two native houses, altered -to receive them. The interior is very confined and damp, and in -consequence unhealthy. The poor nuns, in number fourteen, suffer with -resignation, waiting until it please Heaven to grant them a better -abode, and with that a wider field for their benevolent labours in the -instruction of poor girls. - -To the north of the arch of the 'Ecce Homo' is the Convent of the -Daughters of Sion, which I have already mentioned[527]. It is a new -building, the interior of which might have been very well arranged, but -the plans of the architect were continually altered by the -changeableness of a person who had that power. We, however, must not -deny to him the merit of having introduced into Palestine this excellent -order, whose members came thither with the object of converting the -Jews, but at present are occupied in educating orphans. - -The Greek Catholic Convent is near the Jaffa Gate, and is inhabited by -two or three 'Papas,' whose Bishop usually resides at S. Jean d'Acre. -Internally it is in no respect worth notice. The church is a very large -modern room; and on its south wall is a singular picture representing -the Last Judgement, Paradise and Hell; angels are contending fiercely -with devils, and the condemned struggling with the righteous on the -banks of a river, whereon Charon is rowing his boat. The seven mortal -sins are also unmistakeably represented. The painting is not fitted for -the walls of a church. - -The Armenian Catholics have at present only a single monk in Jerusalem, -a good and energetic man. As the representative of his co-religionists -he purchased in 1856 a plot of land containing the third station of the -Via Dolorosa, and bounded on the south by the fourth station. This he -would not have been able to acquire, had he not been aided by the alms -of his party and the support of M. de Barrere, the French consul, who, -as usual, earnestly pressed his cause with the local authorities. The -property was utterly neglected by the Mohammedans so long as it was in -their possession, and considered to be the ruin of an ancient bath; the -eastern part was used as the Pasha's stable. A church, convent, and -hospice for pilgrims, will soon rise upon the spot; and I trust that in -removing the ruins they will discover some traces of the second line of -walls, which I believe to have passed over this ground. - -The central Convent of the orthodox Greeks is that of S. Constantine, -which is situated on the west of the Church of the Resurrection. -Attached to it, on the north side, is the Patriarch's house, which has -no architectural merit, but is well arranged and comfortable, with a -good garden. The convent itself, though very large, is no better than a -labyrinth of cottages of different sizes and heights, which have been -bought from time to time and joined together as best they could. It is -therefore full of court-yards, large and small, lanes, passages, and -flights of steps; and has also a small but well-kept garden, near the -sacristy. Inside is an excellent dispensary, and all the offices and -workshops, which this Royal Convent requires, not only for its own -purposes, but also for the use of all its dependencies, especially those -in Jerusalem. The chapel is dedicated to S. Constantine; it abuts -against the rotunda of the Holy Sepulchre, and is of great antiquity. It -is adorned as well with pavements of valuable marbles, as with original -pictures, curious specimens of Byzantine art; and possesses a great -number of sacred silver vessels and magnificent vestments. There is also -a very ill-arranged and dusty library, rich in Greek, Arabic, and -Georgian manuscripts, and in ancient Byzantine books; but they are -rarely examined, consequently the rats and worms are more attentive to -them than the monks. They cannot be seen without the permission of the -Patriarch or his deputy; nor can the treasury, which is full of ancient -works of Byzantine art, given by Russia and every other country in which -the members of the Greek church are found, and the cry of Jerusalem is -heard. I have never seen it, nor am I aware of any other traveller who -has. In the lower parts of the buildings, on the east, the native rock -appears, which is a continuation upwards of that seen inside the Church -of the Resurrection, at the tombs of Nicodemus and Joseph of Arimathea. -The parts of the convent near the Holy Sepulchre, and to the east and -south, enable us to understand the words of William of Tyre[528] -concerning the Hospitalers, "That during the disputes between the Canons -and the Knights, the latter shot arrows out of their own convent into -that of their adversaries." In fact, the Canons then inhabited the -south-east part of the present Greek convent, as well as the church, and -the part behind to the north of it. There are fifty monks in the -convent, and six Bishops, besides Archimandrites, Priests, and laics; -about eighty in all. They are distinguished by the title of Monks of the -Sepulchre. Besides these is a large number of boys who attend upon the -Papas and the church, and wear the monastic dress; and many servants -taken from the people of the city. - -In addition to the convent of S. Constantine, the Greeks possess many -other convents in Jerusalem. These are, S. Demetrius, S. George of the -Hospital, S. Michael the Archangel[529], S. John the Fore-runner, S. -George of the Hebrews (in whose church is an ancient Byzantine mosaic -pavement), S. Charalampes, S. Abraham, S. Nicholas (where an ancient -Georgian church is worth a visit, as well as the printing-office, which -publishes good reprints of books in excellent type), the succursal of -Gethsemane, and a new convent by the Damascus Gate. Each of these is -under the government of a Prior, who performs service in their -respective chapels, and, at the season of pilgrimages, entertains -strangers sent to him from the great convents; by whom, as I will -explain presently, his revenues are chiefly supplied. - -The nunneries are, Megala Panagia (Great S. Mary's), S. Theodore, S. -Basil (near the position I assign to the tower Psephinus; the Dead Sea -is visible from its terrace-roofs); S. Catharine, Micra Panagia (Little -S. Mary's), and S. Euthymius[530]. The females who come on pilgrimage to -the Holy City are entertained in these. The Prioresses and the sisters -are taken from the lower orders, and many of them act as servants in the -convents of the Priors and Papas. - -The principal Armenian convent, to which the Patriarchate is attached, -is on Mount Sion. Its great extent, its situation, its many advantages, -its excellent masonry, and, above all, its admirable internal -arrangements, render it unquestionably the best establishment in the -city. It may be compared to a fortress, without ditches indeed, yet -strong enough to defend itself against an attack of the populace or of -the peasants in case of a riot. Its terrace-roofs command an extensive -panorama, and would supply an ample space for exercise to the monks, -even without the large courts and gardens enclosed within its walls. The -latter are the best in the city, and contain some majestic -cypress-trees, and some cedars, which the vivid fancy of the Easterns -attributes to the age of David. This belief is shared by the pilgrims, -and slips of them never fail to fetch a high price. The west front of -the convent is European work, of the same date as the church. The -Armenians assert that it was erected by Spain for a hospital or hospice; -but nothing certain is known on this point. The Patriarch's apartment is -most comfortable and well appointed. The library is well kept. Many of -the books are of no great value; but there are some important -manuscripts and rare liturgies. The printing-press is well managed: they -print in Armenian, Arabic, and sometimes Turkish characters, and publish -reprints of ancient liturgies and tales, but no books of any size. The -full complement of monks, including the laics, together with the -Patriarch and two Bishops, is from forty to fifty. This number is -necessary in order to supply the services of the Church of the -Resurrection, the Sepulchre of the Virgin, and the Convent of Caiaphas -outside the Sion Gate. - -The interior of the Syrian convent is not remarkable. It is a plain -ordinary Arab building, but outside it on the north is a great pointed -arch entirely built up, called by the Orientals the Gate of S. Mark's -House, at which S. Peter knocked. As the arch and its foundations are of -the date of the Crusades, I of course do not believe the legend. The -Syrian Bishop has two or three monks, who assist him in performing the -church services and in receiving pilgrims. - -Some houses near the church belong to the English mission, and are -inhabited by the missionaries and other persons attached to it. They are -neat, but do not call for special mention. - -The Prussian mission possesses a house near the Judgement Gate, occupied -by the Pastor who has the spiritual charge of the mission, and another, -near the English church, inhabited by deaconesses, who are engaged in -the instruction of girls (as I shall presently explain), and in -rendering charitable aid to the sick. - -The Coptic convent is on the north of and near to the Pool of Hezekiah; -it is a plain Arab house. Its inmates are far from clean, and the -visitor generally carries away unpleasant reminiscences of their -dwelling; they also possess another house near the north-east corner of -the Church of the Resurrection, of which I have already spoken[531]; as -well as of the miserable dens that shelter the Abyssinians. - -The convent of the Kusbeck Dervishes stands against the south end of the -arch of the Ecce Homo. With the exception of their chief, they are -engaged in work in Jerusalem, and spend the money thus earned in -pilgrimages to the Mohammedan sanctuaries. They are sober, prayerful, -peaceable men, free from the vice of fanaticism. When I was -superintending the buildings of the Daughters of Sion I had good -opportunity of learning their character. Even at the time of the -massacres of Lebanon I never saw them shewing signs of joy. Their chief -is an intelligent and very moderate man. - -The convent of the Dancing Dervishes is on the summit of Bezetha (as I -call it), next to the ancient Church of S. Peter, which I have already -mentioned. Inside and outside, especially in the lower part, we see -remains of the Crusaders' work. At the present time there are only two -inmates, who are more disposed to good than evil. Its minaret commands a -view of Jerusalem, and of the whole length of the Tyropoeon valley, -from which the topography of the ancient city is far more readily -understood than from any description or plan. - -The Howling or Lancer Dervishes, as I call them, do not live in a -community, but very frequently assemble in a house opposite to the -Hospital of S. Helena, which may be considered as their convent. Many of -the principal Effendis of the city belong to this order. The badge of -membership is a necklace of wooden beads round the neck, and a long -staff with an iron lance-head in the hand. They were founded by an old -Mohammedan santon, an inhabitant of the neighbourhood of S. Jean -d'Acre, who came to Jerusalem in 1856 to preach a course of sermons. -When these dervishes hold their meetings, or are coming from them, they -sing at the top of their voices in the streets, from which practice I -have given them their name. Their distinctive marks might lead us to -mistrust them, but in difficult circumstances they have proved -themselves worthy of confidence; so perhaps I did wrong when I was -hard-hearted enough to break the lance-handle of a country dervish, who -met me on the Jaffa road, and demanded a _bakshish_ rather in the tone -of a soldier than of a monk. I made him amends by repairing his lance, -and gave it back to him, comforting him with the assurance that it would -be as good as ever for the next traveller he met. - -The Jews have no establishments where the Doctors and Rabbins live in -common, so that I pass over in silence their dwellings, which are -destitute of everything except neatness. - -I believe that I have now gone through all the buildings in the interior -of Jerusalem without exception, and have only to speak of the waters; -but these I shall leave for another chapter, and consider them after I -have described the neighbourhood. - - -FOOTNOTES: - -[460] Plate II. - -[461] Page 64. - -[462] Jewish War, V. 5, Sec. 8. - -[463] Ibid. V. 5, Sec. 8. - -[464] Ibid. V. 4, Sec. 2. - -[465] Plate XI. - -[466] S. Cyril. Catech. Lect. XIII. (Libr. of Fathers, Vol. II. p. 163). - -[467] Holy City, Vol. II. p. 375. - -[468] De Vogue, Les Eglises de la Terre Sainte, p. 299, quoting from -Gesta Francorum expugn. Hierus. Bongars. p. 573. - -[469] Quoted by De Vogue, p. 299. - -[470] Elucidatio Terrae Sanctae, Lib. IV. Pereg. 6, c. 2, Vol. II. p. 181, -col. 2, ed. 1639. - -[471] Ibid. - -[472] Elucidatio Terrae Sanctae, Lib. IV. Pereg. 6, c. 5, Vol. II. p. 196, -col. 2, ed. 1639. - -[473] Hist. de l'etat present de Jerus. Ch. XIII. - -[474] Note I; Plates XII., XIII. - -[475] S. John xix. 5. - -[476] Ch. III. page 60. - -[477] Histoire de l'etat present de Jesus. Ch. XIII. - -[478] S. Luke xxiii. 7-11. - -[479] Jewish War, I. 3, Sec. 3. - -[480] M. de Vogue (Les Eglises de la Terre Sainte, p. 304) states that -it is mentioned in the Citez de Jherusalem. - -[481] S. Matt. xxvii. 32; S. Mark xv. 21; S. Luke xxiii. 26. - -[482] S. Matt. ix. 20. - -[483] Nehem. xii. 39. - -[484] S. Luke xxiii. 28. - -[485] Nicephorus, H. E. Lib. VIII. c. 30. - -[486] De Fide Orth. Lib. IV. 14. Quoted by Quaresm. E. T. S. Lib. IV. -Pereg. 3, c. 12., Tom. II. p. 103, col. 2, ed. 1639. - -[487] C. 11 (cf. c. 6), also quoted by Quaresm. Ibid. - -[488] See De Vogue, Les Eglises, pp. 233, et seq. - -[489] Note II. - -[490] Lib. XI. c. 1. Gesta Dei, Vol. II. p. 795 (ed. 1611). - -[491] Lib. XI. c. 1. Gesta Dei, Vol. II. p. 795 (ed. 1611). - -[492] Lib. XV. c. 26. Gesta Dei, Vol. II. p. 887 (ed 1611). - -[493] Les Eglises, &c. pp. 242, 243. - -[494] Plates XL., XLI., XLII. - -[495] I was the first person who made a plan of it before it came into -the possession of France. - -[496] Note III. - -[497] Les Eglises, &c. p. 235. - -[498] i.e. of the Hejra, corresponding with A.D. 1192. - -[499] De Fide Orthodoxa, Lib. VI. c. 5. - -[500] S. Luke vii. 37, 38. - -[501] S. Matt. xxvi. 6, 7; S. Mark xiv. 3; S. John xii. 1. - -[502] Les Eglises de la Terre Sainte, p. 292. - -[503] Ibid. p. 294. - -[504] John of Wuertzburg, c. VII. - -[505] Cartulary, p. 221: "Between the Latin Canons of the most glorious -Sepulchre and the Jacobite monks of S. Mary Magdalene." - -[506] Mejir-ed-Din, p. 123. - -[507] Plate XLIII. - -[508] The part of a house assigned to the females of a family. - -[509] Plate XLIV. - -[510] Plate XLIV. - -[511] La Citez de Jherusalem: see De Vogue, Les Eglises, &c. pp. 303, -439. Furnus S. Egidii in vico Templi. Cart. p. 331. - -[512] Ch. III. page 72. - -[513] A custom derived from a literal interpretation of Deut. vi. 8. See -also Prov. vi. 21; vii. 3. - -[514] S. John xviii. 13. - -[515] Adric. No. VIII. (Quaresm. E. T. S. Lib. IV. pereg. 5, c. 14, Tom. -II. p. 172, col. 2, ed. 1639). - -[516] Mariti, p. 82. - -[517] Acts xii. 2. - -[518] Plate XXXIX. - -[519] Josh. iv. 9, 20. - -[520] M. de Vogue, Les Eglises, &c. p. 304. - -[521] Acts xii. 12. - -[522] Ch. II. p. 29. See also Note VIII. to the same chapter. - -[523] See De Vogue, Les Eglises, &c. pp. 303, 304. - -[524] By an anonymous Greek writer in Scriptt. Hist. Byzant. XXV. c. 12. -Ed. Venet. 1733. - -[525] Note IV. - -[526] Note V. - -[527] Ch. III. p. 60. - -[528] Lib. XVII. c. 3 (Gesta Dei, &c. Tom. II. p. 933). - -[529] Note VI. - -[530] Note VI. - -[531] Ch. IV. page 126. - - - - -CHAPTER VI. - - EXCURSIONS IN THE NEIGHBOURHOOD OF THE CITY ON THE EAST, SOUTH, AND - SOUTH-WEST--THE VALLEY OF KIDRON, CALLED ALSO THE VALLEY OF - JEHOSHAPHAT, WITH ITS MONUMENTS AND REMARKABLE PLACES--THE MOUNT OF - OLIVES--BETHPHAGE--BETHANY--THE VALLEY OF HINNOM--THE MOUNT OF EVIL - COUNSEL--SOUTH-WESTERN PART OF THE VALLEY OF GIHON--MOUNT - SION--CHRISTIAN CEMETERIES--TOMB OF DAVID, AND SUBTERRANEAN - VAULTS--THE COENACULUM--THE HOUSE OF CAIAPHAS--THE GROTTO OF S. - PETER--THE LEPERS. - - -As we go out of the eastern gate, called S. Mary's and also S. Stephen's -Gate, we see on the left-hand a pool, by name _Birket-Hammam -Sitti-Mariam_ (the Pool of the Bath of our Lady Mary). The origin of -this name is that it receives the waters of the ditch outside the -eastern wall, and then by a conduit supplies a bath inside the city, -near the Church of S. Ann. This bath is a favourite with the women of -Jerusalem, who attribute to it miraculous virtues; but unfortunately -they can only profit by them for a few days in the year, as the -neighbouring cisterns and the pool, instead of retaining the water, -allow it to escape; since the reservoir and conduits are in a ruinous -condition, and the proprietor of the bath is too blind to his own -interest to repair them. - -On the right of the gate, as we go out, we see a Saracenic monument, -which is daily falling to ruin[532]. Some of the Arabs believe that it -was built over a sepulchre; others, that it is a monument to mark the -spot where the Khalif Omar pitched his tent after traversing the Valley -of Jehoshaphat. Whichever be the true account, it ought to be preserved. -But the Mohammedan makes no effort to arrest the ravages of time. - -Hence a large portion of the Kidron valley is seen at a glance, -especially that part which is called the Valley of Jehoshaphat[533], a -name derived from the tomb attributed to that king, which is covered -with earth on the east of that of Absalom. Adamnanus, the historian of -Arculf's travels, is the first to mention the Valley of Jehoshaphat, and -his description agrees with that given by Willibald, another author of -the eighth century[534]. The celebrity of this valley is due to a -belief, widely spread among both Christians and Mohammedans, that it -will be the scene of the Last Judgement. This has arisen from the words -of the prophet Joel, "I will also gather all nations, and will bring -them down into the valley of Jehoshaphat, and will plead with them there -for my people and for my heritage Israel, whom they have scattered among -the nations, and parted my land"[535]; and again, "Let the heathen be -wakened, and come up to the valley of Jehoshaphat, for there will I sit -to judge all the heathen round about[536]." In this same valley many of -the ancient Jews, both high and low, have been interred, and the custom -still continues; for they possess a cemetery extending along the eastern -bank of the valley, while the two on the western belong to the -Mohammedans. It appears that the Christians have also used the place for -the same purpose, since, in November 1856, when the Greeks were -cultivating a plot of ground on the western bank of the valley, a short -distance from the tomb of Mary, they found a well-executed slab of -Palestine breccia, on which a cross and the following words were carved: -"The monument which contains Stephen and Juliana." On its removal the -two skeletons were found. As the work went on, fragments of stone, stone -crosses, and human bones were found, unquestionable proofs that it was -the site of an ancient Christian cemetery. It is then certain that this -valley has long been used for the cemetery of the city, as it is at the -present day. In the reign of Josiah mention is made of the "graves of -the children of the people[537]." Urijah, who was slain by Jehoiakim, -was "cast into the graves of the common people[538]." Adrichomius[539] -says that "it received the corpses of the common people and of the -great." I believe that the ancients had a reason in selecting this place -rather than any other for their graves, which was that the winds do not -usually blow strongly from this quarter in Palestine, and therefore the -effluvia from the cemetery would not be borne into the city, but would -be confined to the lower parts of the valley. - -It is then to this, also called the Kidron Valley, from the Arab name -_Wady Kedron_, that I conduct the reader, in order that we may examine -it thoroughly. After descending by the road nearly to the bottom of the -slope, we come to a bare patch of yellow limestone-rock, said to be the -spot were S. Stephen was stoned. The tradition however does not rest -upon a probable foundation, and is more recent than the time of the -Crusades; and as no mention is made in the Bible[540] of either the -gate or the direction of the place where the Proto-martyr suffered, I -must be allowed to doubt its truth. It however is so firmly implanted in -the minds of the pilgrims of the different sects who visit the place, -that their eyes are able to discover the Saint's effigy on the rock -itself; and they forget that even if it had been sculptured there, it -would have long ago disappeared under the hammers of the devout -believers, who have for some centuries made a practice of breaking off -fragments as relics. Several writers have demonstrated the worthlessness -of the tradition, by shewing that from the fifth century to the close of -the Latin kingdom at Jerusalem, the place of the Saint's martyrdom was -believed to be outside the present Damascus Gate, which then bore S. -Stephen's name[541]. It is not known for what reason this name was in -the fourteenth century transferred to the east gate, which, during the -Crusades, had always been called the Gate of Jehoshaphat. - -Near this pretended site of the Saint's martyrdom is the opening of a -cave, which some consider to have been the entrance into the vaults of a -church, erected by the Empress Eudoxia. I endeavoured to clear it out, -but was prevented by the quantity of stones and earth it contained; -however, I was able to ascertain that it had been an ancient cistern, -and did not present any indications of the presence of tombs. I think -that the letters at the opening, now scarcely visible, are the work of -pilgrims. Eudoxia's church was a little distance from the Damascus Gate -(as I will presently explain); and the steepness of the rocks and the -unevenness of the surface here precludes us from believing that this can -have ever been the site of a church, and there are no traces of ancient -walls, nor hewn stones lying about, to shew that any building has been -erected here. - -Following the road eastward from this point, we arrive at the dry bed of -the Kidron torrent, crossed by a small stone bridge, the lower part of -which is evidently very ancient. Above this is some masonry of the time -of the Crusades, and the rest, including the arch, is old Arab work. In -the present day the Kidron is only full of water after a heavy fall of -rain, and quickly becomes dry again as soon as this ceases. Kidron is a -Hebrew word, meaning 'darkness;' derived either from the former depth of -the valley down which it flowed, or from the circumstance that its -ancient bed was narrow and choked with projecting rocks, or from the -cedar-groves, which some believe to have once flourished upon the slopes -of the valley[542]. This torrent is famous in both the Old and New -Testament. David crossed it in his flight from his rebellious son -Absalom[543]; Asa burnt and destroyed an idol here[544]; Hezekiah and -Josiah, in restoring the worship of God, cast down here the uncleanness -from the Temple and the broken idol altars[545]. Our Saviour frequently -crossed it on his way from the Mount of Olives and Bethany; especially -it is mentioned on that night when he went to the garden of -Gethsemane[546]. At the present day the Kidron is a means of discovering -antiquities, in the following way. In the spring of 1855, after a heavy -rain-fall, I noticed that some peasants of Siloam were examining the mud -which had been brought down by the torrent. I approached them, and -learnt that they were searching for old coins. I at once determined to -imitate them, and every year at the time of the heavy rains went to the -Kidron with a couple of men, and constructed small dykes to retain the -mud; and when the water had fallen, I riddled the soil thus deposited, -and always found coins; sometimes of considerable value, such as -shekels, medals of Alexander and Antiochus, and of others[547]. The -reason that these things are found in the Kidron is that the rubbish -from the city, and especially from Mount Moriah, was from the earliest -periods thrown down the western bank of the valley; consequently all the -ground on that side is artificial and not well consolidated; so that the -heavy rains wash down the earth into the torrent, together with the -objects hidden in it. There is no difficulty in the process, and the -supply is by no means exhausted; so that any collector of Jewish coins -may profit by the above description. - -After crossing the bridge just mentioned, we see, immediately on our -left hand, a cubical building, three of whose sides are buried in the -ground, while the facade[548] (on the south) is uncovered. Before this -is a little open platform reached by some steps[549]. It is said to -cover the tomb of the Virgin Mary, but we have no evidence which enables -us to fix the date of its erection. An examination of the tomb itself -would lead us to suppose that the buildings around it were -contemporaneous with S. Helena: for it is a small chamber hewn in the -rock, which I have seen on the inside and outside of the eastern wall, -in the lower parts (close to the ground), and underneath the marble -slabs covering the Greek altar, which has been constructed upon a shelf -along the chamber-wall, originally made to support a corpse, exactly -like that in the Sepulchre of Christ. It is, then, beyond all question, -an ancient Jewish tomb; and at the erection of the church the rock was -hewn away all round, in order to detach it from the main mass (which is -seen close by), and isolate it in the middle of the building; just as -was done at the Holy Sepulchre. We may therefore infer that this work -was contemporaneous with that at the Church of the Resurrection, and -that it was executed by order of S. Helena[550], as is stated by -Nicephorus Callistus, an author of the fourteenth century. I hold that -S. Helena began the work, but did not complete it, because at this time -not only was the traditionary site of the tomb a matter of dispute, but -also the question of the Assumption of the Virgin was as yet undecided -by the learned; a point which was not settled till after A.D. 431, when -it was declared by the third General Council, held at Ephesus, that the -tombs of the Virgin and S. John were in that city. Besides, if S. Helena -had erected a building over the tomb, I cannot account for the silence -of Eusebius, the historian of that Empress and her son Constantine, upon -that point. I am confirmed in my opinion, that S. Helena did not do more -than commence this work, by the fact that neither S. Jerome nor S. -Epiphanius, who visited and described Jerusalem, make any mention of -this as a sanctuary. Had it then existed, they would not have omitted to -name it; especially since, in the fourth century, the belief was widely -spread that the Virgin had not died, but had been borne away by the -Angels into heaven in her bodily form; and therefore these authors would -not have neglected so important a matter as her tomb. Consequently I do -not assign the building to the time of Helena. - -In course of time, when all questions concerning the Assumption were -settled, the Sepulchre of Gethsemane rose in importance; and in the -fifth century a church was standing there, which we find mentioned for -the first time by S. John of Damascus[551], in connexion with the -following incident. The Empress Pulcheria, wife of the Emperor Marcian, -was anxious to obtain the corpse of the Virgin to be the chief treasure -of the church, which she and her husband together had erected in honour -of the Mater Dei, in the district Blachernae (Constantinople)[552]. -Juvenal, Patriarch of Jerusalem, arrived at the capital of the Empire on -the occasion of the Council of Chalcedon, held A.D. 451, and had an -interview with the Empress, who asked him to search in the church at -Gethsemane, which was erected over the spot where the Virgin was buried; -and if he discovered the sacred relics, to transport them to -Constantinople[553]. The Patriarch, however, answered that the tomb was -empty, and that the place was regarded with veneration, because the body -of the Virgin had been deposited there for a few days. Indeed, at that -time it was commonly believed that she had lain three days in the grave -like her Son[554]. We have therefore to enquire who founded this church -mentioned by Pulcheria. The authors of the eighth and ninth centuries -are silent upon this point, and one only of the tenth, Sayd-Ebn-Batrik -(an Arabian) says, that it was the Emperor Theodosius II. Hence -Quaresmius[555] conjectures that the monument was built between the -years A.D. 429 and 457. This would explain the silence of S. Jerome, who -died A.D. 420. Antoninus of Piacenza[556], A.D. 600, speaks of the Holy -Virgin's house, whence, he says, she was taken up into heaven. A short -time after, A.D. 614, it was plundered by the Persians under Chosroes -II.[557] The Khalif Omar, A.D. 636, found the church built over the -Sepulchre, and twice visited it for prayer. It was still standing at -the end of the seventh century, when it was seen by Arculf, who gives -the following description of it: "The lower part, beneath a wonderful -stone flooring, is a rotunda. The altar is on the eastern side, and to -the right of it there is the hollow Sepulchre of S. Mary in the rock in -which she once rested after her burial.... In the upper and round Church -of S. Mary four altars are shewn." These words clearly prove that the -present church is not the one seen by Arculf: since in that there were -two rotundas, which have now disappeared. This is also proved by the -following fact, that, in the seventh century, when the Khalif -Abd-el-Melik was erecting the great mosque of the _Kaaba_ at Mecca, he -commanded the columns to be cut away from the Church of Gethsemane, but -rescinded the order owing to the prayers of certain Christians of high -rank, who promised some other marbles; so that the church was preserved -for that time[558]. In the eighth century it was seen by Willibald[559], -who mentions, but does not describe it; and says that the tomb did not -contain the corpse of the Virgin Mary, but was dedicated to her burial. -He states distinctly that it was in the valley of Jehoshaphat. Bernard -the Wise[560], A.D. 870, saw the rotunda, and the tomb within it, and -says,--"Besides, in that very village (Gethsemane) is the round Church -of S. Mary, where is her sepulchre; which, though unprotected by a roof, -is never wetted by the rain." The account shews that it was then in a -very ruinous condition. From this time until the arrival of the -Crusaders we have no further mention of this monument; and the first to -notice it again is Saewulf, A.D. 1103. At that time service was performed -by monks wearing a black habit, of the order of Cluny[561]. "These," -according to M. de Vogue[562], "gave to the church in the valley of -Jehoshaphat the form which it has retained up to the present day." But, -I ask, did the church of Saewulf contain the same rotundas as that which -Arculf visited, and Bernard saw in ruins? The want of evidence makes the -question a difficult one, because in such an interval of time they might -have fallen to the ground, or have been altered during the persecutions -of Hakem, A.D. 1010. We may then suppose that it might have been -repaired, or entirely rebuilt, and its plan changed at that time. If the -Khalif had found it standing, he would probably have respected it, on -account of the reverence felt for it by the Mohammedan women; which -protected it in the days of Saladin, and continues to do so at the -present day. Again, Saewulf relates that, during the siege, A.D. -1099[563], all the churches without the city were completely destroyed. -How then did he find it standing in 1103? Were the monks of Cluny -installed there at once and enriched by Godfrey[564], so that they were -able to rebuild it in four years? Had this been the case, surely Saewulf -would have mentioned it. "The anonymous author of the _Gesta Francorum -expugnantium Hierusalem_, who wrote in 1106," M. de Vogue goes on to -say[565], "also states that in his time the church built over the -Virgin's tomb by the early Christians was quite in ruins." Now if we are -to believe this author, we cannot accept the statement of Saewulf as -exact, that all the churches were destroyed. Consequently, I hold that -the monks of Cluny rebuilt it after, not before this time. - -I think that the plan of the church in the fifth century was not very -different from the present one, because I believe that the great work of -making the stairs was executed when the first building was erected, in -order to reach the tomb which was situated, as we have seen, low down, -being covered, by the lower rotunda, mentioned by Arculf, with the other -above it. In confirmation of this, we find mention made of a platform -before the building in the year 1100, (perhaps the present one, though -it might be somewhat larger,) which was enclosed by a cloister, where -were buried Werner de Gray, cousin of Godfrey, who died at Jerusalem in -the month of May, A.D. 1100, and the Knight Arnulph, Prince of -Oudenarde, who was slain by the people of Ascalon in 1107[566]. -Therefore, I consider this platform to be the only natural entrance into -the subterranean church, as it still is. With regard to the building of -the present walls, and particularly of the vaults, and to the -alterations in the plan with reference to the tomb, I agree with M. de -Vogue, that the monks of Cluny rebuilt the church early in the twelfth -century, availing themselves (at least in my opinion) of the ancient -foundations. Since that period it has been noticed by many authors; and -from their remarks it is evident that the work of the monks has not been -changed. Indeed Edrisi, A.D. 1154, describes the church under the name -of Gethsemane; stating that it was a mile distant from the Gate of -Jehoshaphat, and was a very large and handsome edifice. Here M. de Vogue -very justly remarks, that this expression could not have been applied to -the ruins seen by the author of the _Gesta Francorum_. John of -Wuertzburg[567] minutely describes the interior of the church as it was -during the twelfth century. The Sepulchre of Mary, he says, was situated -in the middle of a cave, with a 'ciborium' over the sacred remains. He -also tells us very clearly how the monument was isolated, and in what -way this had been effected; and that it was covered with marble, and -with many ornaments in gold and silver. He also mentions some -inscriptions that were in the church, with many other points of detail. -The description of the church given by John Phocas, A.D. 1185, is not -less distinct, and is equally applicable to the present monument[568]. -"The church, which stands about the tomb of the Mater Dei, is beneath -the ground; it has a vaulted stone roof, is prolonged, and rounded at -its extremity. The Sepulchre is placed like a tribune, in the middle. It -is excavated out of the rock in the form of a rectangle, and the -vaulting is with sharp groins. Inside a kind of bench is hewn out of the -eastern wall, of the same rock as the monument; on this the Virgin's -body was laid, being brought hither from Mount Sion by the Apostles." - -In the time of the Latin kingdom a monastery was erected close to the -church for the monks who officiated therein. This is frequently -mentioned by the historians of the time of the Crusades, in the -Cartulary of the Holy Sepulchre, and by Sebastian Pauli, who gives the -names of the different Abbots, with dates. One of them, Julduinus, in -1126, was a witness to a deed of gift from Hugo Lord of Joppa (Jaffa) to -the Hospital of S. John, in which he is called Abbot of S. Mary's in the -Valley of Jehoshaphat[569]. When Saladin took Jerusalem, A.D. 1187, the -Saracens utterly destroyed the convent, and used the stones to repair -the city-walls[570]; but they spared the church, owing to the reverence -with which the Mohammedans (especially the women) regarded the mother of -Isa (Jesus). The church then from the time of the Crusades, up to the -present day, has not been altered; as is proved by the descriptions of -Willibrand, Brocardus[571], Marinus Sanutus, and others, in the -thirteenth, fourteenth, and fifteenth centuries, who all agree on this -point. Sanutus[572] states that it was only lighted by an aperture in -the vaulted roof, on the side of the Mount (of Olives), and by the -staircase; as all the other openings were closed up. Therefore for the -last five centuries it has remained in its present condition. After A.D. -1187, the church was for a long time abandoned; and the Christian -pilgrims, who desired to visit it, were obliged to obtain the keys from -its Mohammedan owners; but, in the year A.D. 1363, it was ceded to the -Friars Minors of the Observance[573] by the Sultan of Egypt, at the -request of Joan, Queen of Naples. At the same time they obtained -permission to rebuild a convent; which is a strong proof that the -convent of the monks of Cluny no longer existed. This design, however, -was not carried into execution for want of funds. Owing to various -difficulties the Franciscans were unable to take possession of their -sanctuary before the 30th of March, 1392. The only effect of this -concession was to give them the right of performing service in the -church, for the Mohammedans were still its owners. This privilege -excited the jealousy of the Eastern Christians, who strove by intrigues, -backed by large bribes to the authorities in Constantinople, to deprive -the Latins of the sanctuary; to whom it rightly belonged, not only by -the treaty of 1362, but also as it had been built by the Crusaders. -Eventually all the Eastern Christian sects obtained the right of using -the place; the Latins, however, retaining the exclusive privilege of -performing service in the tomb itself. This also was abrogated by the -artifices of the Greeks in 1740; but afterwards the Sultan restored it -by a firman to its former owners. Thereupon their enemies, by the aid of -calumnies and bribes to the ministers of the Sublime Porte, not only -succeeded in retaining possession of the tomb, but also in obtaining the -keys of the whole building; which they now hold, enduring with -resignation the presence of the Syrians, Armenians, and Copts, who -occupy small chapels in the interior of the church. The Latin monks -retain the right[574] of performing service during certain days of the -year, especially on the Assumption of the Virgin; but they do not avail -themselves of it, and justly protest, whenever they have a good -opportunity, against the iniquitous usurpation to which they have been -subjected. - -Let us now proceed to examine the exterior and interior of the building; -noticing those parts that are of greater importance, and leaving the -explanation of the rest to the Plates[575] and their descriptions. The -church has unquestionably been buried by the accumulation of the soil -around it; which has partly been deposited by the water running down the -slopes of the hill, and by the Kidron torrent; and partly raised by the -quantity of rubbish cast down here from the city. I have already said -that the church was originally built in a low situation, as is shewn by -the great staircase, the platform in front of it, and the windows and -doors in it; which prove that it was formerly lighted from without. It -was enclosed by an outer wall, whose remains may still be seen -projecting from the surrounding earth. This was no doubt erected chiefly -with a view of protecting the building against streams of rain-water and -land-slips, and preventing its windows from being obstructed. It has -however proved an inadequate barrier. The terrace-roof is apparently in -the usual style of the country, being nearly flat. It is covered with a -strong cement, but this is not sufficient to keep the damp out of the -vaults, because it is so overgrown with vegetation, that it resembles a -field more than what it really is. - -In the interior of the church we see, on the right hand, a door, now -closed up, which, in the days when the Latins had possession of the -place, communicated with the Grotto of the Agony by an outside passage, -which was not, as many assert, subterranean. I am convinced of this, -because I have carefully examined the grotto, and found that it has no -other entrance than the one still in use, which is now reached by a -passage leading from the north-east corner of the platform. This passage -is much later than the church, as it was made by the Franciscans about -the middle of the eighteenth century, when they were wrongfully -compelled to give up the tomb to the Greeks[576]. After descending some -steps we come to two chapels; the one on the right dedicated to the -tombs of S. Joachim and S. Ann, the other on the left in honour of the -tomb of S. Joseph. Most of the monks of all the sects and the ignorant -guides inform the stranger that the saints themselves are buried here. -On this point neither the Bible nor history give us the slightest clue, -either to the time, place, or manner of their deaths, or to the spot -where they are buried. The tradition is worthless, as it only dates from -the fifteenth century, and has never been mentioned by any author of -importance before or since; but only by those who, for the sake of -making a book, and acquainting the world that they have been at -Jerusalem, publish all that they hear without any inquiry into its truth -or falsehood. I maintain that it is impossible these can be the tombs of -the parents of the Virgin, because there is not an atom of rock in any -part of the place where they stand, not even in the ground; and the -tombs themselves are constructed of masonry. Besides, the shape of the -two chapels shews that they were built to contain sarcophagi, in which -probably (as Abbe Mariti and M. de Vogue assert) the bodies of members -of the families of the Latin kings were deposited. This opinion is -confirmed by the testimony of William of Tyre[577], who says: "The Lady -Milisendis of blessed memory, who will be a member of the angelic host, -lies buried in the Valley of Jehoshaphat on the right hand of the -descent to the tombs of the blessed and undefiled mother of the Lord, -the Virgin Mary, in a stone crypt guarded with iron gates, and near to -an altar; whereon acceptable daily sacrifices are offered to the -Creator, for the repose of her soul, and for the spirits of the faithful -departed." This description is as plain as it can be, and does not say -one word about the parents of the Virgin Mary. In this chapel the -staples and hooks can still be seen by which the iron gratings were -hung, until no doubt they were carried off by the Mohammedans. -Descending still lower almost to the bottom of the steps, we find on the -left hand a small doorway leading into a chamber quite dark, with walls -of masonry, which is now used by the Armenians as a sacristy. It has a -tesselated pavement, and was, I believe, formerly used as a mortuary -chapel. Quitting it we enter the transverse arm of the cross, which lies -east and west. In the eastern arm[578] the tomb of the Virgin stands by -itself, as I have already described it. Near it on the south is a small -niche, especially allotted to the Mohammedans, who visit the place for -prayer, as I have often seen. This is the only Christian church in -Jerusalem in which the Mohammedans abstain from smoking, or from using -it, if needful, as a place for conversation; a mark of respect which -they do not pay to the Sepulchre of Christ. Inside the north wall, near -the tomb, is the grotto, from which water falls down in drops; this is -carefully caught by the Greeks, and sold to visitors with the reputation -of possessing many virtues. I tasted it in 1857, when I was making a -plan of the building, and found it very good[579]. Opposite to the great -staircase is the northern arm of the cross. This has been divided by the -Greeks into two stories by means of a wooden floor; the lower serving -for a sacristy, the upper for the chamber of the lay-brother who takes -care of the place. Here also we find a window, closed with masonry, -because it is blocked up on the outside with the accumulated earth. At -the extremity of the western arm is the walled-up doorway, which I -mentioned[580] in speaking of the subterranean passage, said to exist -between the Church of S. Ann and this place. The description annexed to -the Plan will shew the places where the different religious sects -perform their services, and the other points of detail; therefore I pass -on at once to the Grotto of the Agony[581], which came into the keeping -of the Franciscans A.D. 1392, together with the Tomb of the Virgin, and -is still held exclusively by them. - -This is said to be the scene of the Agony of Christ on the night before -He suffered[582]. It is true that the Evangelists make no mention of a -grotto; but tradition and its situation are in favour of this place. Its -situation, I say, because it is a stone's throw (according to S. Luke) -from the place (also traditional) where the three Apostles awaited him. -The tradition is very ancient, and I firmly believe that the Apostles -themselves informed the first converts both of this spot and of that -where our Lord was betrayed to those who came to take Him prisoner. It -seems impossible that His followers would forget the incidents of that -night. Gethsemane was outside the city on the slopes of the Mount of -Olives, across the Kidron; and its position is clearly defined[583]. We -must also remember that there have never been at Gethsemane the same -materials for the enemy to lay waste and destroy as there were within -the city; so that the spot would not here, as elsewhere, be concealed -under ruins and earth. - -There was a church at the Grotto of the Agony (perhaps built by S. -Helena) which is mentioned by S. Jerome[584], as follows: "Gethsemane is -the place where the Saviour prayed before His Passion; it is on the -spurs of Mount Olivet; a church is now built over it." Not a vestige of -this church now remains. In the seventh century Arculf[585] saw the -Grotto, and thus describes it: "In the side of Mount Olivet is a certain -cave, not far from the Church of S. Mary.... In it are four stone -tables, one of which near the entrance of the cave in the interior is -the Lord Jesu's. To which little table His seat is fixed, where He was -sometimes wont to recline, together with the Apostles, who sat together -at other tables." Epiphanius Hagiopolita, towards the middle of the -eleventh century, states that "near the Tomb of the Virgin, is the holy -grotto to which Christ retired with His disciples[586]." Now though -these two authors do not mention that our Lord withdrew to this place to -pray, still that does not contradict the fact, and we may naturally -suppose that the Saviour selected a spot which was already well known, -and where perhaps he had been wont to teach. Therefore I identify their -grotto with that of S. Jerome, which I consider to be the Grotto of the -Agony. Saewulf tells us that it was known by this name before the arrival -of the Crusaders; and during the Latin kingdom there was a church there -dedicated to S. Saviour, as we find stated in the Citez de -Jherusalem[587]: "In front of this church at the foot of the Mount of -Olives is a church in a rock, which men call Gethsemane--there was Jesus -Christ taken. On another part of the way, as one goes up towards the -Mount of Olives as far as a stone's throw, is the church called S. -Saviour. There did Jesus Christ pass the night in prayer before He was -taken, and there did He let fall the blood-drops from His body as though -it had been sweat." All these testimonies, then, go to prove that this -is really the Grotto of the Agony. The Plan and Section will make clear -its interior, which is excavated from a limestone rock. The Abbe Mariti, -who visited it April 30, 1767, endeavoured to discover the inscription -mentioned by Quaresmius[588], which Father Nau[589] asserts that he read -above the larger altar on the north; but as he could only find some -illegible traces of letters, he extracts the inscription from the works -of Quaresmius; it ran as follows: - - HIC REX (SAN)CTUS SUDAVIT SANGUINEM... - SEPE MORABATUR DU C... - MI PATER SI VIS TRANSFER - CALICEM ISTU A ME. - -Quaresmius also states that the Crusaders adorned the vaulted roof with -paintings, traces of which he saw. These were also seen by Mariti, but -were then nearly obliterated by the action of time and damp. They have -now been destroyed by the repairs effected by the Franciscans. - -Let us now visit the Garden of Gethsemane[590], which is exactly a -stone's throw distant from the Grotto towards the south-east. The -entrance-gate is at the south end of the east wall. Gethsemane was a -little village, with a garden close to it, to which Jesus was wont to -retire[591]. The name is interpreted to mean 'rich earth,' from _Get_ -(earth) and _sman_ (rich): by others it is rendered 'olive-mill.' Either -of these explanations is appropriate; for the land is very good, and -especially suited to olive-trees, which are planted all about the -neighbourhood. I cannot say they are cultivated, because the Arabs take -no trouble with them after the first planting. The garden belongs to the -Franciscans, and a few years ago was enclosed with a wall, in order to -preserve its eight old olive-trees from the injuries of ignorant -vandalism or mistaken piety. These are highly valued, because their -stumps, or at any rate their roots, are believed to have been there at -the time of our Saviour's Passion. I do not think this can be said of -their trunks, because I think that they could not have escaped at the -time when all the wood for a considerable distance round Jerusalem was -cut down by the Roman army during the siege, A.D. 70[592]. They are even -respected by the Mohammedans, as is shewn by their exemption from the -tax, which every fruit-tree pays to the Government[593]: their owners -being charged only eight bushels for all the trees. The monks to whom -they belong satisfy ordinary pilgrims with flowers grown in the garden, -with a few leaves or little slips of the olive, but give to their -benefactors and to persons of distinction rosaries made with the fruits, -and oil extracted from them. - -Outside the south-east corner of the garden-wall a rock is pointed out -as the place where the Apostles, Peter, James, and John, fell -asleep[594], and where Judas betrayed his Master. The tradition attached -to this spot is very ancient; it is mentioned by the Pilgrim of -Bordeaux[595], A.D. 333. Saewulf also mentions it, A.D. 1103, but without -alluding to any buildings in connexion with it. The Crusaders, however, -certainly erected some memorial there, which is noticed by -Brocardus[596], A.D. 1230, under the name of the Chapel of Gethsemane, -"placed on a rock on the side of the Mount of Olives, under which the -Apostles were overcome by sleep." At a later period Phocas calls it 'the -sleep of the Apostles.' Some slight ruins are now seen there, consisting -of dressed stones, shafts of columns, and jambs of a door; unmistakeable -indications of a chapel. The original one indeed may have been destroyed -in 1187, but it must have been rebuilt, because an old Bethlehemite -(aged 86) assured me in 1856 that he remembered to have seen there the -remains of a small building, inside of which was a stone stained with -blood. This I have no doubt was a piece of yellow Palestine breccia with -red veins, which abounds in the country. I do not, however, pretend to -fix the exact spots in this locality at which the different -circumstances of the Agony happened, but simply follow the tradition -which in this instance is of great weight. - -We will now proceed southward along the east bank of the Kidron, down -the so-called Valley of Jehoshaphat. No other spot is better fitted than -this to excite high and solemn thoughts in the hearts of even the most -indifferent. It is in truth the valley of meditation, of tears, and of -death. No living creature disturbs the visitor who comes to muse in its -mournful solitude. A city buried under its own ruins, a torrent-bed -without water, a few trees with bare branches or but a scanty foliage, -naked rocks, barren mountains, mounds of rubbish formed by fallen -buildings, graves all around, broken tombs, monuments of martyrs or of -prophets, and lastly, the place of the Agony of the Son of God, make up -a scene that overpowers the mind with emotion and compels it to solemn -reflexion. - -The eye, at its first glance towards the slope of the mountain, is -arrested by a large space of ground full of graves, each of which is -covered by a single stone. Here is the Jewish cemetery. To fill a little -trench in this spot numbers of Jews leave their country, and, regardless -alike of the toils and costs of the journey, and of the hardships they -have to undergo, flock eagerly to Jerusalem to end their days within its -walls, and sleep their last sleep in the land of their fathers. Each -stone bears an inscription; and among them are some of considerable -antiquity, dating from the year 1296. This field of the dead was -enlarged in 1858 by the Jews, with the assistance of their European -brethren: it therefore stretches away for some distance eastward, rising -up the southern slopes of Olivet. Each year they do some work in order -to prepare the ground for burials; and by this means, in 1859 and 1860, -they found bases, shafts, and capitals of columns, and a considerable -number of large dressed stones, on the eastern summit of the mountain. -These are, undoubtedly, the remains of some Christian memorials, which -were destroyed by the Mohammedans in their successful attacks. When Abbe -Mariti visited the Holy City in 1767, the Jews paid a sequin per diem to -the Governor as rent for the ground, and in addition each grave was -purchased separately. The tax to the Pasha is now no longer exacted, but -a payment is made to the Sheikh of the village of Siloam, who nominally -takes care of the ground: the graves, however, are still bought, but the -price is paid to the Jewish administration, who ask more or less -according to the rank of the deceased and to the position chosen. - -On the slope above the Kidron, to the west of the cemetery, are four -ancient monuments, called the tombs of Jehoshaphat, Absalom, S. James -(also called the Retreat of the Apostles), and Zacharias. We will visit -these one by one. - -First is the tomb of Jehoshaphat, standing at the north-east corner of -the vestibule excavated in the rock, which surrounds the tomb of -Absalom[597]. The Bible[598] tells us that King Jehoshaphat was buried -with his fathers in the city of David, consequently his name has been -wrongly given to this tomb. It is indeed possible that he may have -caused it to be made, but there is no evidence to prove this. In 1858 -only a very small portion of its frontispiece was visible, owing to the -accumulation of earth brought down by the rains, and to the heaps of -stones, placed there by the Jews to prevent any one from entering it; -because they sometimes bury therein the corpses of those who have paid a -high price for a place of such distinction, and left enough property to -satisfy the greed of the Sheikh of Siloam, who otherwise would not allow -them to fulfil the wishes of the deceased. Accordingly I gained over the -Sheikh, and during the night, with the aid of some of his peasants, not -only laid bare the whole frontispiece, but also opened a small passage -to the interior, into which I made my way. However, I was soon driven -out again by the insupportable stench from the corpses. Nevertheless, I -was determined not to be conquered; I bought permission to enlarge the -hole, and some hours later entered again; and though two corpses, in the -last stage of decomposition, lay almost across the doorway, I made a -sketch of its plan, which will be found sufficiently exact, measurements -excepted. These I had not time to take; the reeking mud of bones, rotted -by the infiltrated water, emitted an overpowering odour; besides the day -was at hand, and before it came the passage must be closed again. The -frontispiece, however, was left exposed. The tomb is entirely excavated -in the rock, and its frontispiece, 10-1/2 feet long, is in the same -style as that at the Sepulchre of the Judges[599]. I will reserve my -opinion of its ornamentation till I have described the three other -monuments. Dr Isambert[600], of Paris, states that a Roman Catholic -missionary, who entered it in 1842, found there a very ancient copy of -the Pentateuch. Surely he forgets that the Jews have been in the habit -of burying in this place for some centuries, so that his 'very ancient -Pentateuch' would not have escaped them! Besides, this book was probably -only a Synagogue roll, imperfect copies of which are often buried near -the corpses of the Rabbins[601]. Mr Finn, then Her Britannic Majesty's -Consul at Jerusalem, informed me that he had learnt from some Jewish -traditions that the true position of the tomb of Jehoshaphat was 20 feet -to the west, and nearly in front of that of Absalom. Being desirous to -verify this statement, I took some labourers, and explored all that -part; but found everywhere nothing but solid rock, without the slightest -trace of any work. - -Let us now proceed to examine the Tomb of Absalom, the most elegant and -magnificent of those in the neighbourhood of the city. It is a cubical -monolith, each side being about 20-1/2 feet. The tapering columns of the -lower part support a Doric entablature, consisting of an architrave, a -fillet, and a frieze ornamented with triglyphs (with guttae) and paterae -on the metopes, above is an Egyptian cornice. All this lower part is -hewn out of the solid rock; the rest is masonry[602]. The total height -of the monument is 52-1/4 feet, and that of the monolith about 20 feet. -These measurements are only approximate, owing to the quantity of small -stones, which have raised the general level of the ground, and are -difficult to clear away. On the east side is the opening through which -the corpses were introduced[603]. It is very small, and was in all -probability formerly closed by a stone in the manner usual with the -Jews; but I have not been able to determine this point, because the -monument is almost buried on that side, and I was reluctant to encounter -the expense of removing the earth, and the vexations to be undergone in -obtaining the permission. There is a breach in each face of the cube. I -entered by that on the north, and found myself in a small chamber, 8 -feet square, containing many stones that have been thrown in from -without. In the northern wall is a sepulchral niche, and another in the -western. In the southern is the opening to a staircase, which would no -doubt have led me, had I been able to enter it, to the Tomb of -Jehoshaphat. The heaps of small stones, round about the outside of the -monument, increase daily, because the Jews, Christians, and Mohammedans, -who pass by, hurl a stone at it to mark their abhorrence of David's -rebel son. This custom has prevailed for a long time; for Surius[604] -relates that it was in force in his days, and that every one on throwing -his stone cried out, "At the villain, at the barbarian, at the murderer, -who made war against his father!" I believe that the origin of this was, -as we are told in the Bible[605] and Josephus[606], that the servants of -Joab took the body of Absalom down from the tree, and casting it into a -deep dark crevice, covered it up with so great a heap of stones, that -they formed a kind of sepulchral mound. This took place in the wood of -Ephraim, on the other side of Jordan[607]; it is therefore evident that -Absalom was not buried in the present monument. The monolithic portion -may indeed date from his time, but the upper story is much later; for we -read[608], "Now Absalom in his life-time had taken and reared up for -himself a pillar, which is in the King's dale: for he said, I have no -son to keep my name in remembrance: and he called the pillar after his -own name: and it is called unto this day Absalom's place." There can be -no doubt that this part of the Kidron valley was called the 'King's -dale,' because we find the 'King's garden[609]' here, which establishes -this point. With regard to the monument, Josephus[610] fixes its site by -saying that "Absalom had erected for himself a white marble pillar in -the King's dale, two stadia distant from Jerusalem, which he named -Absalom's Hand, saying, that if his children were killed, his name would -remain by that pillar." The white marble is the breccia of Palestine, -which can be worked and polished like marble. The monolith supporting -the pillar is left, but the rest is gone, perhaps having been destroyed -by Joab, when he returned to Jerusalem with his victorious army. I -therefore believe this to be the pillar of Absalom mentioned in the -Bible, especially as it is two stadia distant from the city. - -To the west, and almost opposite to the monument just described, is a -little bridge over the Kidron. An uncertain tradition points out this as -the place where Jesus crossed the stream on His way to the house of -Caiaphas, and also shews on a rock close by the impression made by His -knees as He fell. There is no mention of this in the Bible; it is named -by Quaresmius[611]. This road, from the garden to the so-called house -of Caiaphas (on Sion), is commonly called the 'road of the Capture.' The -topography of the ancient city is unfavourable to the story. A few yards -to the south of the Tomb of Absalom is the Retreat of the Apostles, or, -according to some, the Tomb of S. James[612]. The Arabs call it _Diwan -Faroon_ (Divan of Pharaoh); but they cannot tell for what reason. The -outer porch is supported by two columns and two pilasters, sculptured -from the rock in which the whole monument is excavated. The porch is -about 31 feet wide and 9 deep. In the northern wall is a door, leading -by a staircase up into the rock above the sepulchral chamber. In the -eastern wall is another door leading into the principal room, a square -of 13 feet, into which three smaller chambers open, containing each a -niche for a corpse. In the south wall of the vestibule is a square door, -leading into a corridor connected with the monument on the south. -Tradition relates that S. James and the ten other disciples concealed -themselves here on the night when our Saviour was taken prisoner in the -garden of Gethsemane, and that they remained here until the day of the -Resurrection, when He appeared to S. James[613]. Hegesippus[614] says -that S. James was buried near the Temple, and that a monument was raised -to his memory, which remained until Hadrian rebuilt the city. The Roman -martyrology tells the same story. M. Mislin observes, that this site is -not opposed to the tradition, because it may be said to be near the -Temple; since, at the time of the Saint's death, they did not bury -within the walls of the city. On this point I leave the reader to form -his own opinion. I myself do not vouch for the tradition; although the -Saint may possibly have been interred here, even if the tomb was not -originally constructed for him. - -The Tomb of Zacharias is a monolith, hewn out of the mountain; so -excavated that there is a passage five feet wide round all the sides, -except of course the western. Each of its faces is 17-1/2 feet long, -decorated with two columns in the middle, and two half-columns each -attached to pilasters at the corners, all forming part of the same -block[615]. Around it is a number of Jewish graves, which make it -impossible to determine its true elevation; but the height of the -portion visible above them is 19 feet. The decoration is not completed -in every part. On the eastern side the columns are only rough-hewn, and -not finished off as on the three other sides. Inside the monolith is a -sepulchral chamber connected with the corridor from the Tomb of S. -James. This Zacharias is thought to be the son of Jehoiada, who was -slain by king Joash between the temple and the altar[616]; with whose -death the Jews are reproached by Christ[617]. So the Jews at the present -time believe, consequently they hold the place in great veneration, and -pay very highly to be interred after death anywhere near it; which is -the cause of the accumulation of stones round it. The Pilgrim of -Bordeaux calls it the Tomb of Isaiah, and Benjamin of Tudela the Tomb of -Hosea. - -To the south of this is another tomb almost buried, on which however two -columns can be distinguished. By partially uncovering it I ascertained -that it was an ancient monument. It might be supposed to be that of -Hosea, but I will not undertake to prove it. I am very much disposed to -think that the piece of ground containing these four monuments may be -the garden of Uzza, in which Manasseh and Amon were buried[618]; or, at -any rate, that they were tombs intended to receive the remains of -members of the royal family, or of men of distinction in the country. I -refer my readers to the excellent description of the four monuments in -M. de Saulcy's work[619]. I think that when they were first constructed -they were without decorations, and that they were elaborated at a much -later period; because on them we find the Greek and Egyptian styles of -architecture; consequently I attribute this part to the time of Herod. -Dr Robinson[620], struck with the similarity between these and the rock -sepulchres of Petra, in the mixture of Grecian and Egyptian -architecture, considered the decorations to be perhaps contemporaneous -with the Herods, who were of Idumaean origin, or possibly to belong even -to the era of Hadrian. - -Following the road southward along the Kidron we arrive at the Fountain -of the Virgin, on the west bank of the torrent. This is highly esteemed -by both Christians and Mohammedans, who believe (according to an ancient -tradition) that the Virgin Mary used to frequent it to draw water and -wash the clothes of her Divine Son. The latter have an oratory, where, -after ablutions in the fountain, they offer up their prayers to the -mother of Isa (Jesus). A small mosque stood here in the sixteenth and -seventeenth century, but even its ruins have now disappeared. The Arabs -call the place _Ain Sitti Mariam_ (Fountain of our Lady Mary), and also -_Ain um-el-Deraj_ (Fountain of our Lady near the steps). It is at the -extremity of an excavation in the rock, reached by 28 steps, which, as I -have already said[621], have been constructed owing to the rise of the -ground. These are divided into two flights by a chamber with a pointed -vaulting (Crusaders' work), which is 9-1/2 feet wide and 10-1/4 high. -The lower grotto is 26 feet deep, the water flows into a basin 16 feet -long, 6 wide, and 7 deep; and from this to the upper pool of Siloam -through a subterranean conduit. I shall consider this conduit and the -intermittent flow of the fountain in the chapter on the waters. Popular -superstition attributes the interruption of the stream to a dragon, that -lives concealed at the source, and arrests its course in quenching his -thirst. It is also commonly believed that the water is supplied by -reservoirs under the _Haram_, which is not far from the truth, as we -shall see. On our way from the fountain to the Pool of Siloam we follow -the bed of the torrent for a little way, and then take the road skirting -the western bank of the valley. This leads us to a small pond adjoining -the western corner of the pool situated almost at the south extremity of -Ophel, at the end of the Tyropoeon Valley. This pool is frequently -mentioned in the Scriptures. Isaiah speaks of its 'waters that go -softly[622];' Nehemiah[623], of the wall of the Pool of Siloam; S. -John[624], of the man born blind, who was sent to 'wash in the Pool of -Siloam.' Josephus frequently names it, especially in one of his -addresses to the besieged Jews, when he tells them, as a sign of God's -anger, that the Fountain of Siloam, which before the siege had ceased to -supply them with water, now gave forth plenty to the Romans. He tells -them also that the same thing took place during the siege by -Nebuchadnezzar[625]. On the last day of the Feast of Tabernacles the -people went with great solemnity to draw the water of Siloam, and -brought it to the altar, where it was mingled with the wine of the -sacrifices; in remembrance of the water which God had given them in the -desert by the rod of Moses, and to entreat Him to send down rain on the -new-sown seed. At this festival our Lord was present when he cried, "If -any man thirst, let him come unto Me and drink[626]." The Talmud[627] -asserts, "whoever has not seen the joy of that day has never seen joy." -In the evening those who were the wisest and most highly cultivated of -the nation assembled together in the vestibule of the Temple, and sang -to the music of instruments before all the people; they danced, clapped -their hands, and jumped about in a disorderly manner, and the applause -was tremendous. This was done in remembrance of the dance of David[628]. -From this we see in what esteem the waters of Siloam were always held; -and it did not diminish after the prevalence of Christianity. The -Bordeaux Pilgrim, A.D. 333, writes thus, "At the bottom of the valley on -the left-hand, near the wall, is a pool, which is called Siloa. It has a -portico of four bays, and there is another large pool without." S. -Jerome[629] mentions the intermittent flow of the water: "But we, above -all, who live in this province, cannot doubt that the Fountain of Siloam -is by the lower slopes of Mount Sion, which flows not steadily, but -bubbles forth at uncertain intervals, and comes with a loud roar through -the hollow parts of the earth to the caves of very hard rock." This -description appears at first sight to contradict the words of the -Prophet Isaiah, who speaks of 'the waters of Siloah that go softly.' The -two, however, may be easily reconciled; for the waters ordinarily flow -quietly into the pool; but when the peasants dam up the outlet in order -to retain the stream for irrigating their gardens, the current rolls -along noisily. I made the experiment in 1861, when an Arab Effendi, -Jusef Bachatip, requested me to examine whether there was a sufficient -supply of water to work a corn-mill. - -Nicephorus Callistus[630] states that "S. Helena constructed wonderful -works at the pool which is called Siloe." I doubt this; the stones still -remaining there, and the inner walls, indicate a higher antiquity than -the time of her visit to the city; moreover, I think that if she had -built anything, the Bordeaux Pilgrim would have mentioned it; and we -know that the place was highly regarded by the Jews. It is also -remarkable that he says nothing of a church, while, in A.D. 600, -Antoninus of Piacenza[631] relates, "There is a basilica there, within -which are latticed enclosures, in one of which men bathe in order to -receive a blessing, in the other women; and in front of the door is a -great pool, made by the hand of man, in which the people bathe at -certain hours." S. Boniface[632] adds, that the basilica was dedicated -to S. Saviour the Illuminator. In the beginning of the eleventh century -Albert of Aix[633] writes, "At that place, where there is a square -walled building like a cloister, in the middle of which a little stream -is received." He, however, does not mention a church, nor does John -Phocas, who confines himself to saying, that he saw the columns and the -vaulted roofs which adorned and surrounded the source, without -mentioning the basilica; and afterwards adds, "It would be easy to -repair the ruins of the sacred fountain, but no one touches or puts his -hand to them, and so they are going day by day to ruin, like the -buildings at the other Holy Places[634]." Certain eminent authors of the -present day assert that in the fourth or fifth century the pool was -covered by a church. This I cannot admit, because I find no mention of -it in S. Jerome and Phocas. Antoninus of Piacenza must have mistaken the -porches for a basilica; and we know from his other descriptions that he -is by no means to be trusted; while those who have followed him have -been misled by his words, and by the shafts of columns and other ruins -in the neighbourhood. - -During the siege of Jerusalem, A.D. 1099, Raymond d'Agiles[635] gives -the following account of what happened at the fountain of Siloam: -"Whenever the fountain began to flow, the Christians flung themselves -into it one on the other, and very often perished along with their -cattle. It was thus choked with the bodies of men and animals who had -fallen into it." This does not prove the goodness of the waters[636]; -for we know from Tudebode[637], that water was so scarce during the -siege, that the pilgrims went a distance of six miles to fetch some -though bad and offensive, in little leathern vessels which they had made -of the hides of oxen and other animals (after the custom of the -country). This water, corrupted though it was, was sold at such a high -price, that a crown would not buy enough to quench a single man's -thirst. If, then, men were in such want as to drink this water, they -would be very glad to get that of Siloam. Saladin compared this stream -to the rivers of Paradise; but as it is the only naturally flowing -stream to be seen in Jerusalem, and as it irrigates the luxuriant -gardens of Siloam, and also in times of drought is valuable to the city -for many purposes, we can understand the feeling that produced this -Oriental exaggeration. In his time a small mosque was built near the -pool. - -Let me now describe its present appearance. It is an oblong pool, -exhibiting everywhere signs of neglect. Earth and stones slip down into -it from the higher ground all round, and partly fill it. The peasants of -Siloam, whose gardens are irrigated by its waters, are sometimes obliged -to clear it out, but the work is done carelessly. Its dimensions are 52 -feet in length, 19-1/2 in breadth, and 20-1/4 in depth. The revetement -is a modern restoration, and in it are incorporated shafts of grey -granite columns, the fragments of the above-named portico. At the -north-east corner of the reservoir is a small arch with a flight of -steps, which are in a ruinous state. This leads down into a little -basin, into which the conduit (3 feet wide and about 12 high) from the -Fountain of the Virgin empties itself. This explains why the stream in -the Pool of Siloam is intermittent, like that at the Fountain, and also -the etymology of the word, which signifies 'sent[638].' There is an -opening at the north-east corner, by which the water flows to the -gardens of Siloam through a conduit excavated in the rock, opposite to -the south end of Ophel. An examination of the interior of the pool -disclosed to me the ancient passage by which the water ran down into the -lower pool. The latter I have already stated to be, in my opinion, the -Pool of Solomon, mentioned by Josephus[639] in his description of the -first wall of the city. Here, according to the Pilgrim of Bordeaux and -Antoninus of Piacenza, the Christians resorted to bathe at certain -times. It is now a cultivated garden; for the earth brought down by the -rains from the higher ground has completely filled it up. The Arabs now -call it _Birket el-Hamra_. Coins are frequently found by the peasants -among the earth in the interior; which have been brought down and -deposited there by the conduits flowing from the city. - -At the south-east corner of Solomon's Pool are some ruins, consisting of -shafts and broken capitals of columns, walls and dressed stones of -Jewish workmanship. In the middle stands a very old forked -mulberry-tree, said to mark the spot where the prophet Isaiah was sawn -asunder. According to a tradition received by both the Jews and the -Christians, Isaiah was put to death in the early part of Manasseh's -reign, and his body was buried under an oak near to the Well -Rogel[640]. I do not admit the identity of Siloam and Rogel, which Abbe -Mariti[641] tries to establish; but consider it improbable that the -mulberry should mark the place of the martyrdom, and the oak indicate -the tomb. The position of the latter I do not attempt to fix, as there -are many burial-places near Rogel, but none with the proper tree. The -Mohammedans hold the site of the martyrdom in great veneration, and go -there to pray. It also serves as a place of assembly for the villagers -of Siloam, when they want to discuss any matter of interest. - -From this point we see at one glance the gardens of Siloam, which I have -already identified[642] with the King's gardens of former times[643]. -The inhabitants are indebted to the little stream flowing from the upper -pool for the rich crops of vegetables produced by the plots of land, -once the favourite haunts of Solomon's wives. Then they must have been -more abundantly irrigated than they now are; and very probably the King -constructed the lower pool for this purpose. His humble successors still -reap large profits from the ground, though with a diminished supply of -water; all of which they bestow on the plants, reserving none for their -own persons. - -Following the course of the valley, we leave the mouth of the Valley of -Hinnom, on the right, and before long arrive at the Well of Joab or Job, -called by the Arabs _Bir Eyub_, and still known by the name of the Well -of Nehemiah, or of the Sacred Fire[644]. No one knows what connexion -this well has with Joab or Job; but a tradition relates that when -Nebuchadnezzar took Jerusalem, the Priests concealed the sacred fire -here in order to save it from profanation; and that, on their return -from the Captivity, it miraculously blazed forth, at the prayer of -Nehemiah, from the mud which had been found in the hiding-place[645]. -When the truth of this story was proved to the satisfaction of the King -of Persia, he enclosed the place, and made it holy. Nehemiah "called -this thing Naphthar, which is as much as to say, a cleansing, but many -men call it Nephi[646]." This I believe to be the ancient _En-Rogel_, -which was on the frontier of Judah and Benjamin[647]. Here David's -spies, Jonathan and Ahimaaz, stayed to watch the progress of Absalom's -rebellion[648]; and here again the partisans of Adonijah assembled, -under the pretext of a banquet[649]. Josephus, in his account of this -conspiracy, tells us that the fountain was in the King's garden. At a -distance _Bir Eyub_ appears like a ruined house; but, on approaching it, -we find a quadrangular basin and some ruins, with a frail structure over -the well, and a Mohammedan oratory. In summer it contains little water, -but during the winter-rains it is not only full, but even overflows into -the Kidron. If this do not happen, it is considered by the inhabitants -a bad omen for the coming season; but when it does, a fertile year is -expected, and the whole country rejoices. The water escapes from the -well by a conduit in its east wall, which disappears in the ground after -a distance of 60 feet. The description of its interior, of the supposed -phenomenon of intermittence, and of my investigation on this point, I -leave to the Chapter on the Waters; contenting myself at present with -stating, that I have examined the well to the bottom without finding any -trace of a spring. On the first appearance of the desired prognostic of -prosperity, the peasants of Siloam, who, as nearest to the spot, -consider themselves its owners, fill earthen vessels from the -overflowing stream, and bear them to the conventual bodies and persons -of distinction in the city, receiving in return the omnipotent -_Bakshish_. Then the townspeople flock together there; tents are -pitched, and little refreshment booths improvised; parties of pleasure -are made up; pipes and coffee circulate briskly, while Arab music and -dances enliven the festive scene. Infirm men and women are carried -thither, and dip the soles of their feet in the water; mothers bathe -their babes in it, to restore them to health; horsemen exhibit their own -skill in riding and the activity of their fine steeds, in the swollen -waters of the Kidron: and when the rains are abundant, the merriment is -kept up for 15 days. This is the only occasion on which the melancholy -inhabitants of Jerusalem give way to rejoicing; and even that is in the -midst of tombs and tokens of sorrow, in the supposed Valley of -Jehoshaphat, because they see the waters of the Kidron flowing, which -then, and then only, is in reality a torrent. - -Here ends the Valley of Jehoshaphat, or, as it may be called, from the -Fountain of the Virgin to this well, the Valley of Siloam. Let us then -follow the path on the north of _Bir Eyub_, and ascend the Mount of -Offence[650]. This is only the southernmost part of the Mount of Olives, -separated from the main mass by the road from Jerusalem to Bethany. Its -summit is supposed to have been the scene of the idolatrous rites of the -concubines of Solomon, and of the King himself, and some of his -successors. Here are a few fragments of ruins, possibly the remains of -the heathen temples; but beyond these there is nothing worthy of notice, -except the fine view. - -On the western slope of this hill, near the Kidron, is the wretched -village inhabited by the Mohammedan peasants of Siloam, called _Kefr -Silwan_, probably from the waters of that name in its vicinity. It is a -strange combination of cottages, built on a vertical rock, and of great -sepulchral caves, now used as dwelling-places or granaries. These -caverns formerly afforded shelter to monks and hermits. John of -Wuertzburg[651] writes thus: "The same valley has more caverns on all -sides, in which holy men lead a solitary life." It has now a population -of about 300, none of whom can strictly be termed poor, as they are -employed in carrying into the city the water of _Bir Eyub_ for domestic -use, and that of the Fountain of the Virgin and of the Pool of Siloam -for buildings. Some cultivate their gardens and plots of land on the -eastern slopes of Sion, and many are hired as escorts for pilgrims to -the plains of Jericho, when they are not otherwise engaged as thieves or -robbers; professions in which the village has attained much celebrity. -They also profit by the generosity or timidity of the Jews, extorting -from them _bakshish_, when they come to bury a corpse, or visit the -grave of a relation. At the north end of the village is a monolithic -monument, whose architecture resembles the Egyptian[652]. It is a square -in plan, and is entirely detached from the rock. Within are two -chambers. M. de Saulcy considers it to be an Egyptian chapel, -constructed by Solomon to receive the remains of his wife, Pharaoh's -daughter. To this opinion I incline, as I cannot find any more -satisfactory explanation of it. S. Luke mentions a tower in Siloam[653]; -but whether this was near the pool or the village, we do not know; -probably the latter, as it then would have served as a watch-tower and -keep, or even as an ornament, seeing there were some other buildings on -the Mount of Offence. - -Leaving the village we will ascend the Mount of Olives, which we have -already described[654]. In order to examine its chief points of interest -more easily, we will return to the Garden of Gethsemane, whence two -roads mount the western slope. The northern presents nothing worthy of -remark, except that close to its outset is a rock, where the Virgin is -said to have appeared from heaven to S. Thomas, who was sitting there -lamenting that he had not been present at her assumption, and to have -presented him with her girdle. We will therefore select the southern -path, though it is more rugged and in worse repair than the other. As we -ascend, we pass an Arab house in the form of a tower; but no traditions -are attached to it. Beyond it, about half way up the mountain, is a mass -of buildings wholly Arab, which are pointed out as marking the spot -where Jesus wept over Jerusalem. I do not believe that the event -occurred anywhere in this neighbourhood, because the Evangelist[655] -tells us that our Lord was coming from Bethphage and Bethany; and -therefore, in all probability, He had ascended the road leading from -these places up the eastern slope of the mountain. Then, when first the -city rose before them, I believe that the disciples and the multitude -began to rejoice and praise God. It is said also that this happened when -He was 'at the descent of the Mount of Olives[656],' and the place now -shewn is a considerable distance below the summit. Some rely upon the -words, 'when He was come near He beheld the city, and wept over it,' to -authenticate this locality; but though these words may possibly shew -that the place of the weeping was in advance of the first-named spot, -still I cannot admit that this would have happened on the southern road -(which then, in all probability, did not exist, as it is rather a -goat-track than a foot-path), or that our Saviour would have departed -from the ordinary road. Surius relates that a church stood on this -place, under the name 'Dominus flevit,' which was built by the early -Christians, and destroyed by the Turks. I do not deny that a church may -have been there, but that does not prove the authenticity of the spot. -Godfrey of Bouillon is said to have pitched his tent there. Certainly, -if this be true, he did not select so convenient a situation for -examining the city as the summit to which I now conduct my reader. - -The mountain has three summits in a line lying north and south. The -northernmost, which joins on to Mount Scopus, is known by the name of -Viri Galilaei; on it we find a large cistern and some ruins, apparently -the remains of a watchtower. The guides call them the ruins of a -convent, and not improbably one belonging to the Syrians stood here at -the time of the Crusades, as is shewn by the following passages: "Near -the Mount of Olives, on the left, is a monastery of the Syrians[657]," -and "there is a place suited for a camp, and buildings seem to have been -there. On the summit there is a cistern, and the whole place is -delightsome[658]." The name of Viri Galilaei is given by the inhabitants -of the country, who believe that the two men clothed in white stood -there and addressed the Apostles, "Ye men of Galilee, why stand ye -gazing up into heaven[659]?" The legend is obviously inadmissible, as -the vision evidently occurred at the place of the Ascension[660]. The -more probable reason, according to Quaresmius[661], is, that a house -stood there bearing that name, which was so called because it was -frequented by the Galilaeans when they visited the city on the occasion -of any festival. - -The second and highest summit is the one traditionally pointed out as -the place of the Ascension[662]; in accordance with the words of the -Acts of the Apostles[663], "Then returned they unto Jerusalem from the -mount called Olivet, which is from Jerusalem a sabbath day's journey." -Some consider the account in S. Luke's Gospel[664] opposed to this -belief, where it is said, "He led them out as far as Bethany." But as -the Mount of Olives is in the district of Bethany, the Evangelist may -very well have put the whole for the part; so that there is no reason -why we should not accept the site at present known as the scene of the -Ascension. - -The third summit is the Mount of Offence, of which we have already -spoken. The name of Olivet is derived from the olive-trees, which are -still cultivated upon its slopes, though now in very small numbers. -Mariti[665] says, "it is still known by the name of the Celebrated and -Holy Mountain[666]." Quaresmius and Ludolph[667] remark that in some -ancient versions of the Acts of the Apostles, we find in ch. i. ver. 12, -the 'Mount of the Three Lights' instead of the 'Mount of Olives.' Both -of them explain the origin of this name to be that during the night -these three summits were illuminated on the west by the light of the -fire on the altar of the Lord, which was kept always burning, and in the -morning on the east by the beams of the rising sun, before they fell -upon Jerusalem. Reland asserts that from its three eminences it is -called the Mount of the Three Summits. - -By a chain of fire-signals from this mountain the Israelites used to -communicate to their brethren in distant lands the appearance of the new -moon before the Passover. On one occasion the Samaritans, in order to -deceive the Jews, lighted similar fires at the wrong time, for which -reason the Jews were afterwards obliged to send messengers. The Talmud -relates the manner in which these fires were made. "How did they raise -the flames on high? They took long wands of cedar and reeds and pitchy -wood and tow, and bound them together with a thread. And one, after -ascending the mountain, lights this, and tosses the flame hither and -thither, and up and down, until he sees another doing the same on the -next mountain; and so on to the third. But from what point did they -first raise the fire on high? From the Mount of Olives to Sartaba; from -Sartaba to Gryphena; from Gryphena to Hauran; from Hauran to Beth -Baltin; and he who raised the flame on Beth Baltin did not retire from -it, but tossed his torch hither and thither, and up and down, until he -saw the whole Captivity blazing with fires[668]." "The Samaritans also -once raised the fires at the wrong time, and so deceived Israel." -(Gloss.) - -Sozomen[669] relates that, on the seventh of May, A.D. 331, a remarkable -prodigy manifested the glory of God to the inhabitants of Jerusalem. A -luminous cross, far brighter than any comet, was seen above the Valley -of Jehoshaphat, reaching from Golgotha to the Mount of Olives. This -vision lasted for several hours, and was seen by all the people, who ran -to the church to celebrate the praises of Him who had thus testified to -the truth of the Christian faith. - -Tancred, on the arrival of the Crusaders before Jerusalem, ascended this -mountain alone to reconnoitre the place, and was attacked by five -Mohammedans, whom he discomfited single-handed. Hither too the Crusaders -came in procession to pray for victory from the Lord of Hosts, before -they assaulted the walls. - -In the reign of Baldwin II. the Mohammedan chiefs with their bands -assembled here with their troops in order to assault the city; but the -Christian warriors attacked and dispersed them, slaying a great number, -and the rest were destroyed by a band who sallied forth from Nablous. -During the reign of the Latin kings the mountain was covered with -churches, chapels, and cells for monks and hermits. Hence remains of -these are constantly found. - -Let us now examine the summit bearing the name of the Ascension; and -relate the history of those monuments, of which some traces still -remain, or the sites of which are known. The mountain is crowned by a -small village, clustered round a mosque and minaret, and extending a -little eastward. Its cottages are miserable dens, but in their walls, -ordinary as they are, fragments are seen, generally mutilated, which -appear to have belonged to buildings of a higher architectural -character. In front of the village (called _Jebel Tor_), on the west, -the Greeks and the Armenians possess a plot of ground, in which they -have found, while working there, some pieces of ornamental work, such as -cornices, capitals, and the like; together with some large cisterns, -which are also common in other parts. On the Greek property towards the -north, an ancient wall was found in 1860, which from its masonry appears -to me to have formed part of a Roman intrenchment. I refer it to the -epoch of Titus, when the tenth legion was encamped here, and the -soldiers were ordered to fortify themselves[670]. On the western slope -is a small plateau, occupied by a Mohammedan cemetery, from which there -is a beautiful view; but in order to enjoy this thoroughly it is -necessary to ascend the minaret. This marks the spot from which the Lord -ascended into heaven. It is now covered by a small mosque, in which the -Mohammedans come to pray, shewing thus how greatly they also reverence -the place. Before examining it, we will notice the surprising panorama -visible from the minaret. To the west the Holy City is spread out before -us[671]. We look down the Valley of Jehoshaphat from its head on the -north, to where it joins the Tyropoeon and the Valley of Hinnom; we -can distinguish the hills of Jerusalem itself, and so understand its -ancient topography. What thoughts arise as the eye roams from the -plateau of the _Haram es-Sherif_ to the Castle of David, from Golgotha -to Sion, from Bezetha to Gareb! The scenes of the Old and New Testament, -the histories of so many different nations, the punishment of the elect -people, are brought home to mind and heart; while we feel moved to -repeat the words of Jeremiah, "How doth the city sit solitary, that was -full of people! how is she become as a widow! she that was great among -the nations, and princess among the provinces, how is she become -tributary[672]!" "Is it nothing to you, all ye that pass by? behold, and -see if there be any sorrow like unto my sorrow, which is done unto me, -wherewith the Lord hath afflicted me in the day of His fierce -anger[673]." To the north is mount Scopus, the village of _Neby Samwil_ -(Prophet Samuel), and the mountains of the ancient land of Ephraim, -combined with those of Samaria. Towards the east, the eye, after -traversing the desert hills and mountains of Judah down to the plains of -Jericho and the deep basin of the Dead Sea, is arrested by the range of -the Arabian mountains; the hills of the land of Gilead appear on the -north, lower down those of Ammon, and still further to the south, Nebo -rising above the other summits of Moab. Seen through the pure light -their sides are tinged with colour too beautiful for description, and -testing to the utmost the painter's skill. To the south rise the gloomy -herbless slopes of the distant heights of Bethlehem. To the south-east -is the Hill of Evil Counsel, the plain of Rephaim, and the Convent of S. -Elias, across a nearly desert tract of country. The whole panorama is a -picture of desolation. - -Let us now visit one by one the spots connected with incidents in sacred -history. First is the place occupied by the small mosque, called by the -Mohammedans the Mosque of the Ascension[674]. Eusebius[675] relates that -"the mother of Constantine, in order to do honour to the memory of our -Lord's ascension, erected some magnificent edifices on the Mount of -Olives. First she raised on the summit of the mountain a Sanctuary of -the Church of God." Hence we see that the first basilica on this site -was built by S. Helena; but of that no traces now remain, nor has any -description of it come down to us. S. Jerome alone gives us to -understand that it was circular in plan. "For the church, in the middle -of which are the foot-marks, was built on a circular plan and most -beautiful design[676]." He also, as well as many other fathers of the -Church, relates that the upper part of the dome could not be closed, -because our Lord rose from it, and that the marks of His footsteps on -the ground could never be covered up with marble[677]. This basilica was -no doubt destroyed, A.D. 614, during the invasion of Chosroes II., but -was rebuilt during the first half of the seventh century by the -Patriarch Modestus[678], and the original plan was retained. -Arculf[679], who saw it in the same century, has left us a detailed -notice of it. "On that Mount Olivet no place appears loftier than that -from which the Saviour is said to have ascended into heaven, where -stands a great circular church with three cloisters round it, with -chambers above them. The interior chamber of this circular church is -without a roof, and lies open to heaven under the air; in the eastern -part of which is an altar protected by a narrow roof. Now the inner -house has no chamber placed above it, in order that from the spot, where -last He placed His sacred feet, before He was borne in a cloud to -heaven, the way may be always open, and stretch away into heaven before -the eyes of the worshippers.... Moreover, there is a continuing -testimony that the dust was trodden by God, in that the traces of His -steps may be seen ... and the earth retains the mark as though stamped -with the impressions of feet. In the same place is a great brazen -cylinder opening outward (_aerea grandis per circuitum rota desuper -explanata_), the height of it being up to a man's head; in the middle -of which is a rather large hole, through which the prints of the Lord's -feet may be plainly seen marked in the dust. In that cylinder also on -the west side a kind of door is always open, and through it those who -enter can easily approach the sacred dust, and, by stretching out their -hands through the aperture of the covering, can take particles of the -sacred dust. On the west side of the upper part of the aforesaid rotunda -are eight windows with glass lights; and the same number of lamps is -suspended by cords within over against them; each being hung neither -above nor below, but as it were part and parcel of the window, directly -behind which it is seen. The brightness of these lamps shining through -the glass is so great, that not only is the western side of Olivet -adjoining the church illuminated, but also the greater part of the city -of Jerusalem from the bottom of the Valley of Jehoshaphat is lighted up -in the same manner." Willibald's description confirms, in every respect, -that of Arculf. - -We do not know precisely what became of the building at the time of -Hakem's persecution, A.D. 1010, but it seems probable that the Khalif -destroyed a considerable part of it; because, when Saewulf visited the -place, A.D. 1103, he saw a small tower supported by columns, and -surrounded by a court paved with marble. The altar was inside, placed on -the rock; and there was another altar to the east in the choir a little -distance from the columns, where the Patriarch celebrated mass on -Ascension-Day. In the first half of the twelfth century the Crusaders -rebuilt the church on this site, and added a convent occupied by Canons -of the Augustinian order[680]. Their habit was white[681]. I only give -the Plan of the present building, as there are not sufficient remains to -enable me to reconstruct that of the Crusaders, and I but partially -accept the conclusions which M. de Vogue has drawn from the testimony of -Quaresmius[682]: "The ancient church was a regular octagon in plan: all -the bases of the corner pillars still remain; it is easy therefore to -determine its perimeter. The octagon forming the base of the plan is -inscribed in a circle 111-1/2 feet in diameter. The building has not -been laid out with much accuracy, as the length of the sides of the -octagon (measured on the outside) vary between 39-1/4 and 42-1/2 -feet[683]. This fault proceeds from a want of exactness in the -execution; since it was evidently the intention of the architects to -construct a regular building, to recall by its polygonal form the -ancient rotunda whose ruins it replaced. There is a similar want of -regularity in the bases[684]; some are larger than others without any -apparent motive.... The bases of the columns sustaining the inner -rotunda have entirely disappeared; but they existed in the time of -Quaresmius, who has placed them in his plan equidistant from the centre -and the inside wall ... a wall of rubble-work, no doubt pierced with -windows, connected the corner piers. Nothing remains of this except some -shapeless fragments of its substructure. The examination of these -fragments induces us to suppose that the original wall did not run in -straight lines, but was rather circular in form[685]. In this -uncertainty I prefer to follow the indication of Quaresmius[686], who -doubtless was able to see quite enough of the original building to -ascertain its general plan. He says distinctly that was octagonal. 'The -lower parts of the walls are left, as well as some bases of columns and -foundations, from which we can infer how magnificent it was. Externally -it was an octagon in form, and inside was an ambulatory, supported by -one row of columns.'" From an examination of the spot I am induced to -believe that Quaresmius could not have seen much more than now remains; -and therefore cannot say whether he imagined or really saw the octagon. -In the latter case I suppose that its ruins have perished since his -time; and therefore M. de Vogue cannot have seen the fragments of the -'wall of rubble-work connecting the piers.' I do not deny that his -restoration of the church deserves careful consideration, and probably -conveys a true idea of the building: but I believe that it cannot be -restricted to the present dimensions, and that we can place no reliance -upon the bases of columns and walls now remaining, because they have -been arranged according to the caprice of the Mohammedans, as was most -convenient. This I will presently explain; however, the Plan itself will -shew it. The church erected by the Crusaders was destroyed by the -Saracens, A.D. 1187. "Others indeed devastated the most holy Mount of -Olives, where the Lord, as we read in the Gospels, was often wont to -pray ... on which a church is built, on the spot where our Lord Jesus -Christ was taken up into heaven on the fortieth day after His -resurrection. In the middle of this a structure of wonderful roundness -and beauty is erected, where the Lord placed His feet[687]." - -The Mohammedans appear to have built the present mosque from the -materials of the ancient church: the dome is now closed[688]. Willibrand -of Oldenburg[689], who visited Olivet A.D. 1211, states that an infidel -Saracen had erected an oratory in honour of Mohammed over the ruins of -the Church of the Ascension. M. de Vogue thinks that the Chronicler is -mistaken in saying that this was in honour of the Prophet, and not of -the Ascension, and that the date of the building is from 1200 to 1240. -No Christian community has ever had exclusive possession of the place. A -Mohammedan Santon is in charge, who for a present will open the doors to -any one wishing to visit it. Consequently, on Ascension-day the monks of -all the Christian sects resort thither, each party celebrating mass on -the spot marked on the Plan. The Greeks occupy the most distinguished -position, after the site occupied by the mosque; for there, according to -tradition, the Apostles stood as our Lord ascended. - -Travellers have all spoken about the prints of our Saviour's feet -(especially Abbe Mariti and Monsignor Mislin); with regard to these, as -they are unsupported by the Bible and the decrees of the Church, I -venture to declare that they are only representations of footsteps -carved by some sculptor. The truth of miracles in the abstract I do not -impugn, but for this there is no evidence. The Mohammedans preserve in -the mosque _el-Aksa_ one of the impressions, which also came from -Olivet. I defy the keenest observer to say which is the mark of the -right foot and which of the left. I do not believe in the instantaneous -fusion of the rock; it is only an Oriental invention; and we find -frequent instances of a similar kind among the different religious -bodies in the East; such as the other foot-prints of the Saviour, those -of the Virgin at Bethlehem, those of the Angel Gabriel, the impression -of the body of the Prophet Elias, the turban of Mohammed and his -foot-print, and a thousand similar stories. Therefore I say, with -Mariti, 'Let him believe that wishes to believe;' and am sure that I -offend not against God and religion in rejecting such old wives' tales. - -Let us now glance at some other points of interest. At the south-west -corner of the buildings surrounding the Church of the Ascension is the -Grotto or Tomb of S. Pelagia; over which a church used to stand. She was -a native of Alexandria, who went to Antioch in search of pleasure; and -as she was graceful, fair, and frail, was soon noted among the gallants -of that place, who called her 'the Pearl.' However, one day she listened -to a sermon preached by Nonnus, Patriarch of Antioch, which so affected -her, that, abandoning her former life, she went to inhabit the grotto on -Mount Olivet, which still bears her name; and so completely disguised -herself, that she was known to the hermits who lived in the other caves -in the neighbourhood by the name of the monk Pelagius. Her sex was not -discovered till she was laid out, before being buried beneath the spot -where she had lived. The Jews call this place the Tomb of the Prophetess -Huldah; for what reason they do not themselves know. The Plan[690] -exhibits the interior, half of which is vaulted with masonry, the rest -excavated in the rock. Tradition asserts that our Lord frequently -retired to this grotto to instruct His disciples; accordingly a church, -built by S. Helena in honour of this event, occupied this spot before -that dedicated to S. Pelagia. So we are informed by Eusebius[691]. "And -she also built a church lower down at that very cave, where (as the true -and holy utterances of God testify) the Disciples and Apostles were -initiated in all sacred mysteries." The Pilgrim of Bordeaux writes, A.D. -333, "Thence you ascend Mount Olivet, where the Lord taught His Apostles -before His Passion. There a basilica has been built by order of -Constantine[692]." Why does the Pilgrim pass unnoticed the Church of -the Ascension, so plainly indicated by Eusebius? Possibly the church of -the grotto, a kind of dependency of the place of the Ascension, may have -been the only part of the works completed at the time. - -Leaving the Grotto of S. Pelagia, and going towards the south-west, we -find a cistern near to an olive-tree, which is shewn as the place where -our Saviour taught the Apostles the Lord's Prayer. Formerly there was a -church here, as the following passage tells us: "In which place (i.e. -Olivet) the Lord was wont to instruct His disciples and all who flocked -to Him out of the city. And there He is said to have taught His -disciples the Lord's Prayer[693]." Not a trace of the church is now -left; and I cannot accept the tradition, as it is contrary to S. -Matthew's Gospel[694], which places the scene of this event in Galilee; -S. Luke[695], indeed, says our Lord repeated the prayer 'in a certain -place,' this may have been in Galilee or at Bethany, but not, I think, -at Jerusalem. - -A short distance from the above, to the east, is a cavern, wherein the -Apostles are believed to have composed the Creed. Here formerly stood a -church, dedicated to the twelve Apostles; as is shewn by the ruins still -remaining, and those which are dug up there from time to time. The Rev. -G. Williams[696], in 1842, saw twelve niches in the walls, six on each -side: these I never found; for the barbarous peasants of Olivet have -completely destroyed them, in order to use the stones in building their -cottages, after first breaking them in pieces so as to remove them more -easily. The tradition about the Creed is of no value. Adrichomius[697], -indeed, says, "the most probable opinion is, that the Apostles met -together in the Coenaculum in Sion to compose the Creed." - -On the summit, not far from the place where the Lord's Prayer is said to -have been pronounced, the spot is pointed out where our Lord stood when -He predicted the Last Judgment[698]. This tradition is, like the others, -worthless. - -Descending towards the south in the direction of the Mount of Offence, -we arrive, a few yards from a path leading to Bethany, at a field, in -which is the so-called Tomb of the Prophets[699]. We enter this cave by -a small aperture approached down a broken flight of steps. The Plan and -Sections render it unnecessary for me to describe its internal -arrangements. I will only mention that in certain parts, especially in -the piers, we find masonry, which has been added in order to strengthen -the piers of rock which had crumbled away, and so become incapable of -supporting the vaulted roof. The place is called by the Arabs _Kubur -el-Umbia_. Hither the Hebrew pilgrims come to lament and pray, -believing, according to a tradition commonly received by them, that -they are the burying-places of the Prophets. We will therefore see -whether the Bible confirms this belief. - -Though they are called the Tombs of the Prophets, the names of those who -have been buried there are not known; for the greater number and more -distinguished Prophets were not interred near Jerusalem. The -difficulties attending on this tradition are well put by M. Nau[700]. -"They point out the place where, as they say, the Prophets are buried. -But what Prophets? Isaiah is buried elsewhere, under Mount Sion; -Jeremiah at Alexandria, whither his remains were removed by Alexander -the Great from Tahpanhes in Egypt; Baruch, his secretary, went to -Babylon to console his countrymen in their captivity, and lies there. -Ezekiel, after being cruelly martyred by being dashed against rocks over -which he was dragged by the Jews, or (as others say) by horses, to which -he had been fastened, was buried in the sepulchre of Shem and Arphaxad. -Daniel ended his days at Babylon, either by a natural death (according -to the common opinion), or (according to an ancient manuscript of the -Emperor Basil, preserved in the Vatican) by decapitation, together with -his three holy companions, at the hand of a certain Attalus. His remains -were removed from Babylon to Alexandria, and thence to Venice. Hosea was -buried at Behemot in the tribe of Issachar, Joel at Bethor, Amos at -Tekoah, Obadiah and Elisha at Sebaste, Jonah at Geth, Micah and Habakkuk -near Eleutheropolis, Nahum at Begabar. Thus the burial-places of the -greater number of the prophets are elsewhere: but still we may suppose -that some of the others may have been interred in these tombs; for -example, Zephaniah, Haggai, Malachi, and many others of the Messengers -of God, mentioned in Holy Scripture, who have not left any writings, as -Gad, Nathan, Ahijah the Shilonite, and others. It is enough for some of -these to be buried here, in order to give the place a claim to its name. -It is also possible that the Jews may have collected the remains of -their more distinguished Prophets, and placed them in these tombs on the -Mount of Olives." No more need be said to shew how slight are the -grounds for the traditional name. It is indeed possible that the words -of our Lord may refer to these tombs: "Woe unto you, Scribes and -Pharisees, hypocrites! because ye build the tombs of the Prophets, and -garnish the sepulchres of the righteous[701]." "Woe unto you! for ye -build the sepulchres of the Prophets, and your fathers killed -them[702]." Certainly I do not consider these tombs to be as ancient as -many others in the Valley of Kidron and Hinnom and on the north of the -city, which we shall presently examine. - -Quitting the Mount of Olives, let us take the path running eastward, -which will lead us to the ancient village of Bethphage, so well known in -connexion with the Redeemer's entry into Jerusalem. It formerly belonged -to the Levites employed in the Temple. Origen, in his treatise on S. -Matthew[703], explains the word to mean House of the Jaws. S. -Jerome[704] speaks of it as follows: "When He had come to Bethphage, to -the House of the Jaws, which is a village belonging to the Priests, and -a type of (Christian) confession, situated on the Mount of Olives." -Again, in the account of S. Paula's journey[705], he says, "After she -had entered the Tomb of Lazarus, Mary and Martha, she saw the hospice -and Bethphage, the 'Village of the Jaws,' which were the priests' -portion." Others interpret the word 'House of Figs,' and the Easterns -assert that it means 'House of the Rock in the Valley.' The position of -the place is certainly in favour of this last signification, as just -there the valley is divided into two branches by a rocky hill. - -At the present day there are no traces of the church, which is said to -have stood there, or even of the village itself; nothing is seen but -bare rock, broken here and there by patches of badly tilled ground. -Quaresmius[706] gives an account of the long procession which used in -his time to be made on Palm Sunday, "When the Guardian of the Holy Land, -with his attendant monks, had reached the spot, he preached to the -people: then a deacon chanted the Gospel for the day. At the words, -'Jesus sent two disciples, saying unto them,' two monks fell on their -knees in front of the reader, who continued, 'Go into the village over -against you, and straightway ye shall find an ass tied, and a colt with -her; loose them and bring them unto me.' Then the two departed and -brought an ass, on which the Guardian mounted, while the bystanders -spread their garments and olive-branches in the way, and so the -procession started for Jerusalem, chanting as they went, 'The sons of -the Hebrews brought branches of olive,' and proceeded to the city." Even -in the time of Quaresmius nothing remained of either the church or the -village. I could wish that some of the ceremonies still performed in the -Holy Sepulchre, had, like this, fallen into disuse. - -After descending from Bethphage for about half a mile by a very steep -and stony path, we come to the village of Bethany. It may perhaps be -asserted, that this way going from the Mount of Olives through Bethphage -and Bethany was not in existence in former times, and is rather a -cattle-track than a road, but it is mentioned by S. Epiphanius[707]: -"Then he (Marcion) does not give any account of His journey from Jericho -until He arrives at Bethany and Bethphage. But there was an ancient road -which led from Jerusalem by Mount Olivet, which those who traverse these -regions are acquainted with." Therefore it is evident that this road was -more ancient than that which went from Jerusalem to Bethany by the Mount -of Offence. The former is the one which we suppose our Lord to have -traversed on His triumphal entry into Jerusalem, and on other -occasions. Bethany was a Jewish fortress on the eastern slope of Olivet: -it was the home of Lazarus and his sisters[708], and is frequently -mentioned in the Gospels[709], being the favourite resort of Jesus and -His disciples. The position of the village is incontestably fixed by -history, tradition, and the locality itself. - -We are told by S. John[710] that Bethany was about 15 stadia, or nearly -2 Roman miles, from Jerusalem, and the present village is that distance. -We may fairly suppose that the house of Lazarus must have been of -considerable size from the allusions to it in the Gospels[711], and -consequently it and the village could hardly have been destroyed without -leaving some ruins to mark the spot; and therefore the tradition would -be preserved until the fourth century, when monuments were erected by -the Christians on the sites connected with the life of Christ. It is -then only necessary to examine into the accuracy of the tradition during -the first three centuries; but here the same arguments that we used in -the case of the Sepulchre of Christ may be applied to Bethany, and -especially to the Tomb of Lazarus. The present condition of the place -may also persuade those who distrust tradition, for there are still very -many ruins there, and consequently must have been more in the first ages -of Christianity. If it be urged that they are the effects of the ravages -of the Saracens on the work of the Crusaders, I admit the objection to -be partly true, but reply that the eye can readily distinguish these -from the more ancient Jewish remains. In a word, there is no other place -on the eastern slope of Olivet, which so perfectly fulfils all the -requisite conditions, as the present village of Bethany: and even its -Arab name _El-Azirieh_ still retains that of Lazarus. The Mohammedans -themselves so fully believe that this is the scene of the raising of -Lazarus, that they come as pilgrims from distant countries to supplicate -health for themselves and their sick children, in faith that if they -touch the rock of the tomb their prayers will be granted by God. In 1859 -some labourers discovered, at the distance of a few yards from the -village, to the east, near the road going to the Jordan, a wall which -had all the characteristics of ancient Jewish work of the age of the -Herods. Its shape and position seem to indicate that it had formed part -of an enclosure; the continuation of which was observed a little to the -south, and also to the north-west of the Arab houses. Near it a great -quantity of materials of the Herodian epoch were discovered, scattered -about in the ground, with several deep cisterns entirely excavated and -vaulted in the rock, full of fragments of ancient masonry. These also -occur in other parts of the village. After carefully examining the -boundary wall, wherever it could be found, I have arrived at the -conclusion that the traditional House and Tomb of Lazarus are outside -it. Thus the objection often brought against them, that they are inside -the village, in opposition to the Jewish law, does not apply. For a long -time past the peasants of Bethany have been accustomed to find dressed -stones in their fields, which they have either broken up, in order to -carry them away easily into the city, or have burnt for lime. If, then, -we do not suppose the ancient village to have been there, I do not see -how we can explain the presence of these remains. The eastern part of -the present village occupies a portion of the old site, and the western -was built when memorials were erected by the Christians over the Holy -Places. Bethany is now a wretched spot, consisting of about forty -cottages, built on ruins and heaps of rubbish. A short distance from the -entrance to the village, on the west, is a splendid ruin, the remains of -a building of considerable size, which is shewn as the House of Lazarus. -To the east of this, among the houses, is the mosque[712], and near it -the Tomb of Lazarus. The houses of Martha, Mary, and Simon the Leper, -are also shewn by the natives; but as these exhibit no signs of -antiquity, and the first two are obviously improbable, I pass them by -without further notice, to consider the Tomb of Lazarus. This, like most -of the Jewish sepulchres, consists of two underground chambers, namely, -a vestibule and a tomb properly so called. The latter is entirely -excavated in the rock, while the former is of masonry, together with the -walls of the staircase leading down to it, which dates (according to -Mariti[713]) from the beginning of the seventeenth century; that is, -from 1612 to 1615, when Father Angelo of Messina was Guardian of the -holy mountain of Sion, and built this approach to the tomb. Mariti adds, -that it was made because the ancient one was in the adjoining mosque, -formerly a Christian church. With this I cannot agree, because, after -examining the interior of the mosque, I have been unable to find any -trace of a communication with the inside of the tomb; and in the -interior of the latter there are no signs of a walled-up door, to give -access to this supposed passage. The locality has undergone so many -alterations, that it is now impossible to fix the relative positions of -the church and the tomb; but the former must have been different in plan -and in dimensions from the small mosque, which, as I believe, retains -few, if any, remains of the ancient Christian church. The tradition -indicating this spot as the scene of the miracle is as early as that of -Bethany itself. The Pilgrim of Bordeaux, A.D. 333, writes, "There is a -crypt there, where Lazarus, whom the Lord raised, was laid." He does not -allude to any building erected there by S. Helena, therefore I doubt the -truth of the following statement of Nicephorus Callistus[714]: "Thence -having gone on to Bethany, she erected a noble temple to Lazarus the -friend of Christ. That place is two miles from Jerusalem." S. -Jerome[715] (who died A.D. 420) speaks of this tomb and of a church -there, but does not say that it was built by the Empress Helena[716]. -At a later period the tomb and church were seen by Antoninus of Piacenza -and Arculf; the latter of whom "visited at Bethany a certain small field -surrounded by a great olive-grove, on which stands a large monastery, -and a large church built over the cave, from which our Lord raised up -Lazarus after he had lain dead four days[717]." Bernard, the Wise[718], -writes thus: "Thence we proceeded to Bethany on the descent of Mount -Olivet, where is a monastery whose church marks the Tomb of Lazarus." -This place is also mentioned by Saewulf, so that tradition and local -evidence bring it down to the epoch of the Latin kingdom. The tomb must -have been altered by the Crusaders, whose work we recognize in the -vestibule leading into the sepulchre; but we have no record of the -general appearance of the exterior of the church after their -restoration. We see, therefore, that an unbroken tradition has been -attached to this tomb from the beginning of the Christian era to the -present day. - -Let us now visit the ruins of the so-called House of Lazarus, which are -a short distance to the west of the tomb. All that we can distinguish -here with certainty is the ruin of a square tower, the masonry of which -is of the time of the Crusades. The presence of a quantity of small -white tesserae encouraged me to excavate inside its walls, when I found -in its foundations stones with rude rustic-work; and in removing the -rubbish, saw some other stones in which were holes, apparently made to -receive lead or iron clamps, to bind them together. Hence I consider -that the Crusaders' building partly rests upon ancient Jewish -foundations; and that it is not by any means improbable that this is the -actual site of the House of Lazarus. The walls and portion of the tower -now remaining are the ruins of a hospice, which was rebuilt by Queen -Milisendis[719] in the first half of the twelfth century; the original -building (dating from the sixth century and visited by Antoninus of -Piacenza) having been destroyed by the Saracens. Milisendis obtained for -this purpose the church of Bethany, and all the land belonging to it, -from the Canons of the Holy Sepulchre, giving them in exchange the town -of Tekoa, near Bethlehem. The deed of exchange, dated on the nones of -February 1138, is preserved in the Cartulary of the Holy Sepulchre[720], -and also the bull of Celestine II., A.D. 1143, confirming it[721]. The -queen considering that the convent, being in a lonely situation and a -considerable distance from the city, would be in danger of attack in -case of war, built there with squared and dressed stones a very strong -tower, containing the necessary offices, as a refuge for the nuns, until -succours arrived from Jerusalem[722]. This it is whose ruins we now see. -She also amply endowed the convent, assigning to it the revenues of -Jericho and its dependencies, with many other gifts, recorded by William -of Tyre in the passage just cited. The same author goes on to inform us -that when the work was finished, Milisendis established there a -community of Benedictine nuns, presided over by an abbess, "an aged and -venerable matron, of approved piety," after whose death, "returning to -her (original) purpose, she placed her own sister, with the consent of -the Lord Patriarch and assent of the sisterhood, at the head of the -nunnery;" giving at the same time yet more gifts, such as chalices, -books, and other ornaments used for ecclesiastical purposes; nor did she -cease all her life according to the desire of her heart, and for the -sake of her sister, whom she specially loved, to shew kindness to the -place. The name of the first abbess was Matilda[723]. Juveta is -mentioned as abbess of the nunnery of S. Lazarus at Bethany, in a -contract for the exchange of some rents between her and the nuns of the -Hospital of S. Lazarus at Jerusalem. It bears the date A.D. 1157, in the -reign of Baldwin III. After the witnesses' signatures we find written, -"All these things were confirmed in the presence of Queen Milisendis." -To the document a seal is attached mentioned by Paoli[724]. In the -middle of it is the figure of a lady, partially effaced, holding against -her breast a book bearing a cross. The legend is JUDITTA ABBATISSH. On -the reverse is our Saviour recalling Lazarus to life, with the legend -RESUCTATIO LAZARI. On the invasion of Saladin the nuns retired to S. -Jean d'Acre, and the convent was destroyed, since which period it has -remained in ruins. - -Thus, having completed our examination of Bethany, let us return by the -road passing on the south of the Mount of Olives. This was the ancient -military way from Jerusalem to Jericho and the left bank of the Jordan, -and is still the usual route to the same places. Traces of the old -paving are yet to be seen at certain points. Near the Mount of Offence -the local guide stops the visitor to shew him the fig-tree which -withered away at our Lord's command[725]; and, if he is well up to his -work, will not forget to point out the tree on which Judas hanged -himself. But let us enter the Valley of Hinnom. - -This was the boundary-line between Judah on the south and Benjamin on -the north[726]. The Arabic name is _Wady er-Rabab_, the Hebrew, -_Ge-Hinnom_ or _Ben-Hinnom_ (the valley of the son of Hinnom). The -bloody rites of Moloch[727] and Baal gave it its evil fame, which were -celebrated more especially in the place called Tophet[728]; this was, -according to Jerome, the lower (eastern) part of Hinnom. S. Jerome[729] -asserts that Christ was the first to use this word in the sense 'hell;' -an application which the abominable idolatrous rites that had been -enacted there rendered most appropriate. The Prophet Jeremiah frequently -mentions Tophet, but one passage is very remarkable from the manner in -which its fulfilment is evident at the present day. "Behold, the days -come, saith the Lord, that it shall be no more called Tophet, nor the -valley of the son of Hinnom, but the valley of slaughter: for they shall -bury in Tophet till there be no place[730]." Now, whichever way we turn, -our eyes rest on tombs, many broken as the nation that once profaned -this spot: so that no one can tread these rocks heedless and unmoved. - -To the south of the Valley of Hinnom is the hill, called by the -Christians the Hill of Evil Counsel, because of a legend, that in a -village on its western side, all trace of which has now disappeared, was -a house belonging to Caiaphas; where the Priests and Pharisees assembled -to compass the capture and death of Christ. Pompeius encamped upon its -summit after he had taken Jerusalem[731]. The Arabs call it _Jebel -el-Kubur_ (Mount of the Tombs); a most appropriate name, as it is in -reality one great necropolis; now, however, inhabited by many peasants -of Siloam, who have housed themselves and their crops in some of the -sepulchral chambers, and converted others into cisterns. We will visit -all the more interesting objects which we meet as we ascend from the -Well of Job. At the bottom of a narrow trench, sloping steeply -downwards, is a frontispiece[732], decorated with a triangular pediment, -with a trefoil as finial, above a small doorway. On each side of this is -a pilaster; these are still visible, though partly covered with soil. -The interior[733] has this peculiarity, that the arches forming the -roofs of the sepulchral niches are not very nearly semicircular, but -extremely depressed; and a trough-shaped cavity or sarcophagus takes the -place of the shelf for the corpse; an arrangement which does not occur -in the tombs on the north of the city, or in the Kidron Valley. While I -was engaged in making my Plan, I found a great number of bones in the -interior; and in the chamber furthest to the east four perfect -skeletons, which I discovered must have been placed there a few months -before. I consider these tombs, as well as the others so common in the -vicinity, to be more recent than those which are found elsewhere in the -neighbourhood of the city; certainly they did not exist in the time of -the Jewish kings, when Tophet was considered an accursed place. I think -that they were excavated during the Asmonaean period, as the prejudice -against the site might by that time have diminished. The simple but -careful ornamentation of these tombs, the whiteness of the surface, and -the absence of certain marks on the stone, characteristic of the -instruments of the earlier period, all lead me to the same conclusion. - -A few yards to the west of the last tomb is another remarkable for its -elaborate facade[734]. This is of the Doric order. The frieze is divided -by triglyphs, having eight metopes, each charged with a patera of a -different pattern. Some traces of fresco painting are still seen on the -soffit of the vestibule and in the inner chambers, which induce me to -think that it has been used as a chapel. According to tradition the -Apostles concealed themselves here also after our Saviour was taken -prisoner; and at a later period S. Onuphrius lived and died here in -retirement. For this cause it was converted into a chapel dedicated to -this Saint, and it is still visited by the Greeks once a year to offer -up prayers. Schultz considers it to be the monument of Ananus the -High-priest; a point in the wall of circumvallation constructed by -Titus[735]. As its decoration is probably of the Herodian age, I agree -with him. - -On the west of this we find, after passing Aceldama, a tomb[736], which -gives us a good idea of what the Sepulchre of Jesus was formerly like. -When Constantine embraced Christianity, this hill, as well as the -others, was occupied by anchorites, who lived in the tombs and caverns. -So we are told by Antoninus of Piacenza[737]. "Within the very -sepulchres are the cells of the servants of God, wherein many virtues -are displayed." So again we find in the Geography of Edrisi: "Near this -are a number of houses excavated in the rock, inhabited by pious -hermits[738]." - -Almost half way up the hill is a building which has retained the name -Aceldama (Price of Blood[739]). An uninterrupted tradition identifies -this with the Potter's field, bought as the burial-place of -strangers[740]. This place recalls to the mind one of the most sublime -prophecies of Jeremiah[741], of which it may have been the scene; when -he broke the potter's earthen vessel before the ancients of Israel, -crying, "Thus saith the Lord of hosts, Even so will I break this people -and this city as one breaketh a potter's vessel that cannot be made -whole again"--words which still are fulfilled by Jerusalem and the Jews. - -In the field is a great subterranean chamber, excavated in the rock, -enclosed by a wall supporting a vaulted roof, and pierced by holes, -through which the corpses were let down. In the lower part of the west -side is an aperture formed in the rock, perhaps to admit servants to -gather together the ashes after the corpses were consumed; but of these -no traces can now be found. In the interior on the south side is a great -pier made out of the rock, and strengthened with masonry, which divides -the chamber into two on that side. Nicephorus Callistus attributes this -monument to S. Helena[742]. After examining the walls I have come to the -conclusion that they are of two periods, the first that of S. Helena, -to which I refer the inside wall, especially in the lower parts; and the -second that of the Crusades, which is the date of the part above ground -and the vaulting. At that time the Hospitalers interred here those who -died in the Hospital, as we learn from the following passage: "On the -left hand the valley had a charnel-house called Chaudemar. Therein they -cast the pilgrims who died in the Hospital at Jerusalem. This piece of -land, where the charnel-house lay, was bought with the money for which -Judas sold the dear Jesus Christ, as saith the Evangelist[743]." A -church also stood on this spot, as is shewn by a document entitled, -"Archives of the Hospitalers in the year 1143," in which we find, "I -William, by the Grace of God, Patriarch of Holy Jerusalem ... proclaim -that I have granted for ever to the Hospital which is in Jerusalem, a -certain church, situated in the field called _Achel-demach_, where the -bodies of strangers are buried; together with all the land, divided by -the ancient Syrians in our presence." No trace now remains of this -church, but it was probably built over the vault, and was only a -consecrated room to be used as a mortuary-chapel. Popular superstition -attributes to the soil of Aceldama the property of consuming the corpses -buried there in twenty-four hours; for which reason it was carried away -to be used in Christian burial-places. S. Helena transported 270 -ship-loads to Rome. The Pisan Crusaders on their return from Syria -brought back a great quantity of it, which was deposited on their Campo -Santo, A.D. 1218. I was anxious to test the truth of the belief, and so -buried at a depth of four feet the body, not indeed of a human being, -but of a lamb. After eight days I disinterred it, and unfortunately for -my sense of smell, found that although I had carefully selected a piece -of natural ground free from rubbish, the experiment was unsuccessful; I -am therefore driven to conclude that the soil has lost its former -virtue. I also filled a box with the soil, and placed therein birds, -small quadrupeds, and reptiles; but in all cases the flesh was consumed -slowly. I also planted flowers in some of it, at my own house, and found -that they flourished perfectly. - -Many persons have laid much stress on the fact that a great quantity of -broken earthenware vases has been found about Aceldama, which they have -considered to be of great age, and proofs of its former use; but in what -part of the neighbourhood of Jerusalem, and indeed of all the towns and -villages of Palestine are not similar remains found? Hewers of stone, -labourers, shepherds and many others, pass whole days away from their -houses, especially in places where there are tombs, and always bring -with them vessels of water, many of which get broken from time to time; -a circumstance which accounts for these fragments being found especially -in the neighbourhood of the more populous cities. - -From Aceldama we can ascend to the top of the hill to visit the ruins of -_Deir-Kaddis-Modistus_. This appears to have been an ancient convent, at -the time when the anchorites inhabited the caverns. Now we see a -Mohammedan tomb, and two Arab cottages, erected by the Greek -Archimandrite, Nicoforus, who has purchased a large estate there; and in -a few years the mountain-side, after so many centuries of sterility, -will be again fertile. When these were being built, I often visited the -place, and noticed that, as the rubbish was cleared away, some remains -of ancient Jewish and Roman walls were discovered; the occurrence of -which, renders it not at all improbable that a fortress occupied the -position in the time of the Maccabees. - -We descend the Hill of Evil Counsel to the Bethlehem road, and follow -this northward till we reach the valley of Gihon on the north-west. On -our left is a new mulberry plantation, in the middle of which stand a -small tower and the beginning of a house, all the work of Nicoforus, who -intends to establish here a spinning-mill for silk. This spot is _Kasr -el-Asfur_ or _el-Ghazal_ (House of the young sparrow, or of the -gazelle)[744]. Here we find many cisterns entirely excavated in the -rock, and a quantity of hewn rock, still bearing marks characteristic of -the ancient tools. Dressed stones and fragments of walls of the Jewish -period are not unfrequently found here by the labourers, when digging -deep to bring the ground under cultivation; but unfortunately the -Archimandrite is not as fond of archaeology as of farming; and these -remains are blown up with gunpowder to gain two or three inches more -soil for the roots of a tree, so that the traces of ancient works, of -the highest importance in determining the former topography of the -neighbourhood of the city, are thus obliterated. - -A little to the north of _Kasr el-Asfur_ is a large plot of land -enclosed by a new Arab wall, on which stands a long building, certainly -not remarkable for its good architecture and internal arrangement. It is -a hospice for Jews, founded in 1858 by Sir Moses Montefiore of London, -with the assistance of others professing the same creed. It has been -erected to supply lodgings for the poor, where they may enjoy a purer -air than they do in their own quarter of the city. Behind the principal -building, to the west, Sir Moses Montefiore erected a wind-mill, which -would be of the highest value to the whole country if only its -advantages were understood; but the Arabs still prefer using their own -miserable hand or horse-mills, which spoil their flour, to the trouble -of carrying the grain this short distance from the city. In time, no -doubt, they will perceive the obligation they are under to this -philanthropic Israelite. - -In the lower part of the valley, to the east of the above-named -establishment, is a very large pool excavated in the rock, except on -the north and south side, where its waters are retained by walls. It is -the largest in the neighbourhood of Jerusalem, and bears the name -_Birket es-Sultan_ (Prince's Pool). It is so called because the popular -belief is that it was originally constructed by David or Solomon, and -afterwards repaired by various sultans. An Arabic inscription on the -frontispiece of a fountain (now dry) to the south, called _Ain -el-Melik_, informs us that it was restored by the Mamaluke Sultan -el-Melik en-Naser-Mohammed, between the years 693 and 741 of the Hejra -(from 1294 to 1340 A.D.). It was also repaired by Sultan Solyman I. in -the sixteenth century. Owing to a mistake made by Bonifacius[745] it has -been wrongly supposed to be the Pool of Bersabee (Bathsheba), where the -wife of Uriah the Hittite was bathing, when she was seen by David. This -is however obviously contrary to the words in the Bible[746], that -"David walked upon the roof of the King's house, and from the roof he -saw a woman washing herself, &c." Besides, it is in the last degree -improbable that a woman of good reputation would bathe in a pool by the -side of a public road. It is more likely that it bears the name of -Bethsabee or Bersabee, because it is at the beginning of the road -leading to the city of Bersabee[747]. I have no doubt that this is the -'lower pool' mentioned by the Prophet Isaiah[748]; but I shall discuss -this question in the Chapter on the Waters, and give an account of the -aqueduct, which runs along its western side, and then after turning -eastward goes to Sion. In the middle ages it was repaired by one -Germanus, as the following passage shews: "When they had descended the -mount," it is told in our account of the thirteenth century, "they found -a pool in the valley, called Germanus' Pool, because Germanus -constructed it to catch the water that descended from the hills when it -rained; there the horses of the city used to drink[749]." It is true -that the above quotation asserts that Germanus made the pool, but I -understand this only to mean repaired; because it is far too great a -work to have been undertaken in the time of the Crusades, simply to form -a watering-place for horses, when other ponds in the neighbourhood of -the city would have served for this purpose. It is also mentioned in the -Cartulary of the Holy Sepulchre in the year 1177. The pool is now dry, -and even after rain the water does not remain in it, although it could -be restored for a small sum. During the harvest the farmers dry and -thresh out their crops in it. - -Hence we return to the city by ascending the rough road leading up to -that part of the wall enclosing Mount Sion, which bears the name of -_Abraj Ghazzah_ (towers of Gaza), and after passing the south-west -corner of this, we arrive on the plateau of the hill, which is occupied -by a cemetery, divided among the different Christian communities in -Jerusalem. At the south-east corner of this stands a group of buildings, -known by the names of the Tomb of David and the Coenaculum. A small -dome, surmounted by a crescent, marks the position of the former[750]. -That this is the site of the tomb of the Royal Psalmist and his -successors, I trust to shew by the aid of the Bible, of history, of -tradition, and of local evidence at the present time. We find the -following passages in the Bible: "David took the stronghold of Sion, the -same is the city of David.... So David dwelt in the fort, and called it -the city of David[751]. So David slept with his fathers, and was buried -in the city of David[752]." Again, after the death of the Psalmist, -several of his successors are mentioned as being buried "with their -fathers in the city of David[753]." But this is not all; in the Book of -Nehemiah[754] we find "the gate of the fountain repaired Shallum ... and -the wall of the pool of Siloah by the King's garden, and unto the stairs -that go down from the city of David. After him repaired Nehemiah ... -unto the place over against the sepulchres of David, and to the pool -that was made, and unto the house of the mighty." From this it is clear -that the wall, in coming from the direction of the King's garden and the -pool of Siloam, mounted the eastern slope of Sion as far as the Tomb of -David, and that the 'pool that was made' is _Birket es-Sultan_, and -possibly the 'house of the mighty' may be the citadel. Hence the Tomb of -David must have been well known to the Jews of later ages. Again, -Josephus[755] states that Solomon buried great treasures in his father's -tomb, and that Hyrcanus the High-priest broke open the tomb and took -therefrom three thousand talents. This happened about 129 B.C. In -another place[756] we find, "As for Herod, he had spent vast sums about -the cities, both without and within his own kingdom, and as he had -before heard that Hyrcanus, who had been king before him, had opened -David's sepulchre, and had taken out of it three thousand talents of -silver, and that there was a much greater number left behind, and indeed -enough to suffice all his wants, he had a great while an intention to -make the attempt; and at this time he opened the sepulchre by night and -went into it, and endeavoured that it should not be at all known in the -city, but took only his most faithful friends with him. As for money he -found none, as Hyrcanus had done, but that furniture of gold and those -precious stones that were laid up there, all which he took away. -However, he had a great desire to make a more diligent search, and to go -further in, even as far as the very bodies of David and Solomon; where -two of his guards were slain by a flame that burst out upon those that -went in, as the report was. So he was terribly affrighted, and went -out, and built a propitiatory monument of that fright he had been in, -and this of white stone, at the mouth of the sepulchre, and at a great -expense also." This took place about the year 12 B.C. Had the tomb been -outside the walls, it is less likely that it would have escaped -destruction in the various sieges of Jerusalem; and the account just -cited produces the impression that it was within the city. S. -Peter[757], addressing the Jews, says, "Let me freely speak unto you of -the patriarch David, that he is both dead and buried, and his sepulchre -is with us unto this day." This brings us down to the year 34 A.D. Dio -Cassius[758] states that part of the Tomb of David fell down of itself -in the time of Hadrian, which was considered by the Jews to be an evil -omen. S. Jerome[759] also informs us that it was visited by the -Christians, when he says to S. Paula and S. Eustochium her daughter, -"When shall we be allowed to enter the Sepulchre of the Redeemer, and to -pray in the Tomb of David?" He does not indeed expressly say that it was -within the city, but we may infer it from his mentioning it together -with the Sepulchre of Christ, and not alluding to it when he describes -the visits to the Sanctuaries in the neighbourhood of Jerusalem. This -evidence brings us down to the fifth century. The Jewish tradition also -on this point is of real weight, because it has never placed the tomb -otherwise than on Sion, outside the present city-walls, though without -fixing its exact position. Benjamin of Tudela[760], who wrote A.D. 1173, -relates that about fifteen years before his arrival at Jerusalem one of -the walls of the oratory on Mount Sion fell down, and that while it was -being repaired two of the workmen went on with their labour while the -rest were absent, and broke away a stone that formed the mouth of a -cavern; into this they agreed to enter in search of treasure, "and they -proceeded until they reached a large hall, supported by pillars of -marble incrusted with gold and silver, before which stood a table with a -golden sceptre and crown. This was the Sepulchre of David, King of -Israel.... They further saw chests locked up, the contents of which -nobody knew, and were on the point of entering the hall when a blast of -wind like a storm issued forth from the mouth of the cavern, so strong -that it threw them down almost lifeless on the ground. There they lay -until evening, when another wind rushed forth, from which they heard a -voice like that of a man calling aloud, Get up and go forth from this -place." Now I do not attempt to deny that this story may be false or -greatly exaggerated, but at any rate it proves that the Tomb of David -was clearly pointed out by tradition at that time as being on Sion. A -Florentine lady, Sophia degli Arcangeli, erected a hospice containing -200 beds near the Coenaculum, in the year 1354, to entertain pilgrims -to the Holy City, and then began to excavate on Sion a subterranean -chamber to bury the Latins who died during their visit. When the work -was commenced in the Latin cemetery, near to the boundary of that -belonging to the Armenians, the ground gave way, and a great underground -cavern appeared. For this reason the attempt was abandoned lest it -should lead to disputes with the neighbours. Now this fact does not give -us any indication of the place of the Tomb of David, but it proves the -existence of a cavern, such as is now seen, with its opening on the west -side of Sion. This then especially occupied my attention, as I thought -it would afford the means of determining the Tomb of David, which all -the Jews now in Jerusalem unanimously assert to be on Sion. They do not -indeed generally assign any exact position to it, not I believe from -ignorance, but from religious scruple; some however less anxiously -cautious, say that it is on the site usually pointed out, namely at -_Neby Daud_, which is the Arab name for the eastern part of the building -attached to the Coenaculum. Quaresmius[761], who was Guardian of the -Holy Land in 1630, and visited the tomb with the interpreter of the -Latin convent, assures us that nothing remains under the present place. -I allude to this to shew that the tradition of the tomb being near the -Coenaculum was also current among the Franciscan monks. - -Before bringing forward my own investigations, and the conclusions -derived from them, I quote the words of M. Mislin[762]: "I visited the -Tomb of David, April 1, 1855. It was three o'clock in the afternoon; -Kiamil Pasha and the chief personages awaited us in a small court, the -entrance to which is on the left-hand side of the great doorway. We at -once descended by a staircase of only six or eight steps into a low -vaulted chamber, which, so far as I can judge, is situated exactly under -the Church of the Institution of the Eucharist, of which it is only the -crypt. No doubt it was one of the three churches, placed one on the -other, mentioned by Fabri[763]. 'It had consecrated places on three -different levels, namely a crypt underground, a church above ground, and -over that another decorated tabernacle.' After passing through the -vestibule we arrived at the part corresponding with the single nave of -the church above. Here however the nave is divided into two by a row of -massive piers of rock in the middle, supporting the vaulted roof. The -latter half, or rather part of this crypt, for it is smaller than the -other, is separated by a transverse railing, and is itself divided by -another railing at right angles to the former, so as to form two spaces -at the southern end of the chamber. The entrance is by that on the right -hand, and the tomb occupies almost the whole of that on the left. When -we had entered the former chamber, which I will call the _Mihrab_, -because in it is the niche for prayers, ... the place in which we were -was very dark, and the neighbouring chamber was worse; so that all that -we could see on the other side of the railing separating us from it, was -a carpet, which was not enough to satisfy our curiosity. Kiamil Pasha -remarked to the Sheikh that we were come to see the tomb; he then opened -the door with a very good grace. The Pasha kneeled down and pressed the -fringe of the carpet covering the tomb to his mouth and forehead for a -moment, and then allowed us to examine it at our pleasure. Before us was -a sarcophagus about seven feet high, and twelve long. It was covered -with seven very rich carpets. The upper was blue silk with large deeper -coloured stripes; it was worked over with texts from the Koran. In the -middle of the sarcophagus there is also a square piece of stuff richly -embroidered, with a gold fringe; on it also are texts from the Koran, -worked in gold thread. It was the gift of the Sultan Abdul-Medjid. The -second carpet is bright blue with flowers worked in silver thread. The -others are well worn and less rich than these. From the roof a canopy of -silk is suspended, striped white and blue. The Sheikh who accompanied us -raised a corner of the carpet, so that I was able to touch the -sarcophagus; but owing to the many folds of the cloth, I had great -difficulty in forming an opinion of its shape and material. Observing -that I was not yet satisfied, he then took courage and raised the whole -of the carpet from the part where there was the best light. By this -means I saw the entire front of the sarcophagus, which appeared to me to -be made of unpolished grey marble. In the middle was a medallion of -darker colour, and I asked its meaning. The Sheikh informed me that it -marked the position of the Prophet's navel. I examined the walls; they -are covered with earthenware tiles with a blue pattern on a white -ground. Bronze lamps are placed here and there around the tomb. Near the -door, on the left hand on going out, is a chain suspended from the wall, -with oblong links. The Sheikh told me it was a model of one made by -David himself.... The Mohammedans act wisely in keeping this tomb -concealed, in order to invest it with some importance." The last is an -unfortunate remark; the Mohammedans, and especially the Sheikhs who are -in charge of the place, know very well what they are about, as I will -presently shew. - -I visited the chamber described by M. Mislin in February 1859; having -obtained admission from the same Santon in return for certain services I -had rendered him, also by bribes and presents at various times, by the -recommendation of Surraya Pasha, and by having won the good will of the -Mohammedan families who occupy the houses about _Neby Daud_; most of -whom let out horses and beasts of burden for hire, and were under -obligations to me for recommending them to travellers. For all these -reasons, and after much expenditure of money and patience, I gained -entrance into the Sepulchre of David, visited his pretended tomb, and -made the observations I am about to describe. The description of M. -Mislin is very accurate, but I am able to make the following additions -to it: (1) Under the earthenware tiles in the chamber of the -sarcophagus, I discovered, by means of an examination made from the -outside, the walls of an ancient Jewish building, combined, in the parts -above the floor, with masonry of a later date, which has been introduced -during repairs. This is to be found especially on the east and north -sides. (2) The sarcophagus is not of unpolished grey marble, but of -whitish Palestine breccia, called marble by the ancients, from its -resemblance in working and polish. The greyish colour is due to its age, -and perhaps also to the bad light or to the shade cast by the upraised -carpets on the small part of it that was examined. (3) The medallion -does not mark the position of the Prophet's navel, as the Sheikh said, -but is a simple decoration attached to the sarcophagus; it is repeated -on each of the other sides. Neither is it of darker marble, but as it is -continually kissed by devotees its colour has been altered. (4) The form -of the sarcophagus is a rectangular parallelepiped, formed of different -blocks of breccia well fitted together without mortar. The lid is _a dos -d'ane_[764], of several pieces of stone; at least so it appears at each -end, but in the middle and on the top I have been unable to detect the -divisions. All this shews that it is not a real sarcophagus, but only an -imitation or cenotaph erected on the spot to conceal something below. -(5) On lifting up the mats at the corners of the chamber and near the -tomb, I found that the pavement is laid upon the rock, which corresponds -in its nature with that exposed all about the upper part of Sion. I -carefully examined the north side and the base of the monument, in the -hope of discerning signs of an opening, but in vain. When I asked the -Sheikh for information on the point, he appeared surprised at my -question, and from that moment endeavoured to get me out of the place as -quickly as possible; and under the circumstances I had no choice but to -comply. - -I did not, however, believe that I had visited the Tomb of David, but -was convinced that there was below or on the north side of the chamber -containing the sarcophagus, a communication with the true tomb, which -must be excavated in the solid rock; and, like all the other very -ancient sepulchres, consist of many chambers, in which were sarcophagi, -differing in their arrangement from those at the Tombs of the Kings and -Judges, on the north of Jerusalem[765]. I accordingly determined to -descend into the vault, which I have already mentioned as having an -opening on the western side of the hill[766]. After I had descended a -steep sloping plot of land, I found some steps forming the commencement -of a staircase cut in the rock; which, however, is now almost covered -with soil, ashes, and bones. Below was a huge vault, which I perceived -to run under a large portion of the cemetery above; and so understood -how it was that they came upon it in excavating a burial-place in 1354. -It is now almost full of bones, which are thrown in whenever they are -found in digging graves. As I unfortunately made the examination in the -rainy season, it was not very successful; the water had soaked through -and run down into the interior, so that I was impeded by mud composed of -wet soil, ashes, and bones; and I do not know whether I should have been -able to extricate myself from the fetid quagmire, if I had not had two -men with me, and taken my usual precaution, when visiting an unexplored -place, of fastening a rope round my body. Consequently I was obliged to -wait for a better opportunity. At the same time I examined the ground in -the neighbourhood of the opening, and not only found the rock all round -it at a slight depth, but also ascertained that it had once been larger, -and had been reduced in size by masonry, so that it could be closed with -a stone. The rock, when uncovered, shewed traces of the iron tools with -which it had been wrought, and also exhibited the small holes made to -admit clamps of iron or lead to fasten down the stones that were laid -upon it. These marks have brought me to the conclusion, that this must -have been the entrance into the Tomb of the Jewish Kings, and that here -Herod erected his monument in order to render the place secure. Hence -the sarcophagus, which is called David's Tomb, is only a representation -of it, after the usual custom of the Mohammedans, who indeed have -another repetition of it in wood on the upper floor; which is placed -there to content the believers who come to pray, and saves the Sheikh -the trouble of conducting them down into the lower chamber. It may not -be out of place to observe here, that I made a report to Surraya Pasha, -that the principal causes of the constant fevers in Jerusalem were the -shallowness of the graves on Sion, which were so dug to avoid coming -upon this vault by going too deep; and the presence of this -charnel-house. At the same time I proposed a plan by which, at a small -expense, the sepulchres of Aceldama might be restored, and the remains -of the corpses removed to them; a change which would have produced the -best possible effect on the sanitary state of the city. The Pasha -understood this, but unfortunately, owing to the number of previous -formalities which were requisite, the execution of the design was almost -impossible. I must confess that the public good was not my only motive -on this occasion, as the opportunity it would have afforded me for -making researches, and excavating inside the cavern, would probably have -furnished me with most valuable information to aid in identifying this -place with the Tombs of the Jewish Kings. - -In the month of May in the same year I was able with much difficulty to -examine, to some extent, the above-named cavern: not indeed as -thoroughly as I could have wished, but as far as circumstances would -allow. I was obliged to remove a quantity of skulls, masses of bones, -and other materials, and this with the help of only one European -servant; as I was unable to find any other assistant, owing to the -disgusting nature of the labour. It was further impossible to get help -from the Arabs, who would not have aided me for any price that I could -have offered, and who would very likely have embroiled me with the -inhabitants of _Neby Daud_. By little and little, on many days, I was -able to make a Plan of the place[767]; I do not claim for this very -strict accuracy as regards the measurements, but its shape and bearings -are to be trusted, up to the part where it narrows on the east. Although -I saw the beginning of the corridor on the east, I was unable to enter -it, as it was quite filled with rubbish, and I have only inferred its -junction with the chamber containing the sarcophagus which passes for -David's Tomb. I found over a large part of the cavern the marks of the -tools used in excavating it. At some places there appeared to be the -upper parts of doorways; these perhaps might be entrances into other -vaults; the mass of rubbish however made it impossible to determine -this. I also thought that the vaulting was supported by piers; but was -unable to satisfy myself on this point, as what I saw might have been -caused by a settlement of the ground above that had brought the roof -into contact with the rubbish accumulated inside, which was in such -quantities, that I could not without great labour have distinguished the -one from the other. As then I cannot conceive this great work undertaken -for any other than an important purpose, I believe that it is the -vestibule of the Tombs of the Jewish Kings; but of course to establish -this we must wait until the rubbish is cleared out of it. It is in the -fortress of Sion, the city wherein David dwelt, and no other place in -Jerusalem agrees so well with the _data_ of the Bible and Josephus, and -with tradition, as this position, which has in its favour every argument -derived from the configuration of the ground. I hope to be able to renew -my investigations here; but if unhappily I am prevented from carrying my -intention into effect, I recommend archaeologists to devote themselves to -the subject; trusting that in that case they will find that I have -directed them to the real tombs of the Jewish Kings on Sion. - -Let us now consider the 'Coenaculum;' the name of which is derived -from the belief that it is the place where our Saviour ate the last -Paschal supper with His Apostles. The Bible[768] tells us no more than -that it was a large upper-room, but the tradition is of very great -antiquity. It asserts that here the Apostles met after the Resurrection, -when the Saviour shewed them His wounds; that here He ate before them, -and breathed on them that they might receive the Holy Ghost[769]; that -here Thomas was convinced[770], and Matthias elected an Apostle[771]; -that here the Holy Ghost descended on the day of Pentecost[772], and -the first converts were added to the Church by S. Peter[773]. A church -must have been erected on this spot at a very early period, for S. -Epiphanius[774] says, with reference to Hadrian's journey in Palestine: -"He found Jerusalem levelled with the ground, the Temple itself -destroyed and trodden under foot, save only a few houses, and a certain -small Christian church which had been built upon that spot on which the -disciples, after that the Saviour had ascended into heaven, assembled -together in the Coenaculum." We read in the Catechetical Lectures of -S. Cyril[775]: "The Holy Ghost, who spake in the Prophets, and who on -the day of Pentecost descended on the Apostles in the form of fiery -tongues, here in Jerusalem in the Upper Church of the Apostles." This -shews that the church was divided then, as it now is, into two floors. -It is not known who built it. Nicephorus Callistus[776], an author of -the fourteenth century, attributes it to S. Helena; but Eusebius does -not mention it, and the Bordeaux Pilgrim only says: "Continuing along -the same road up Mount Sion, you may see the place where was the house -of Caiaphas the priest; and to this time the column still remains where -they scourged Jesus." S. Jerome[777], in his Itinerary of Paula, writes -thus: "The column was shewn there, supporting the portico of a church, -stained with the Lord's blood, to which He is said to have been bound -and scourged. The place is pointed out where the Holy Ghost descended -upon one hundred and twenty believers." In the year 415, on Dec. 26th, -the remains of the Proto-martyr S. Stephen were transported to the -Apostles' Church, during the patriarchate of John[778]. Antoninus of -Piacenza, Arculf, Willibald, and Bernard the Wise, in the sixth, -seventh, eighth, and ninth centuries respectively, mention the basilica -on Sion[779]. Arculf describes its plan without details as a regular -parallelogram of considerable length. We do not know whether the church, -described by these authors, was the same as that spoken of by S. Cyril; -but it is very probable that, owing to the persecutions suffered by the -Christians, the fabric was destroyed and rebuilt more than once. At any -rate, by the end of the eleventh century it had entirely fallen to ruin, -as we find from the Gesta Francorum[780]. The Crusaders rebuilt it, and -though their church no longer exists, we possess an accurate description -of it by the authors of the twelfth century. I abbreviate this from the -work of M. de Vogue[781], who has derived it from the anonymous writers -of the manuscripts of Vienna and of Paris, and from John of Wuertzburg -and John Phocas. "The church was composed of two parts: the lower, -consisting of a nave and two aisles, with barrel-vaults, was -terminated, like most of the buildings of the period of the Crusades, by -three apses at the east. In the apse most to the north was an altar, -supposed to mark the place where the Virgin died.... That on the south -was supposed to indicate where Christ appeared to His disciples after -His Resurrection. In this lower church, sometimes called the crypt in -the middle ages, they say that Our Saviour washed the Apostles' feet. -The upper church had a groined roof, with a central dome. This was the -Coenaculum, properly so called, where tradition placed the scene of -the Last Supper in the nave, and of the descent of the Holy Ghost in the -principal apse. The two floors communicated one with another by means of -an inner staircase of 61 steps (this number, given by Phocas, is -evidently exaggerated), which opened from the ground-floor in the -southern apse. The interior of these two churches, in the time of the -Latin Kings, was covered with wall-paintings, representing the subjects -of the traditions attached to the spot." After giving a list of these, -M. de Vogue goes on to say, that "on the left of the principal church -was a small one dedicated to S. Stephen, in remembrance of a very -ancient tradition, according to which the martyr's body was removed from -its first resting-place at Caphar Gamala to this place. A convent had -been built in the neighbourhood, occupied by a chapter of Augustinian -Canons, who had the care of the Sanctuaries under the direction of an -Abbot. The society bore the twofold name of S. Mary of Mount Sion and of -the Holy Ghost." M. de Vogue then describes the seal of the convent, and -gives a list of the Abbots. - -The buildings around the Coenaculum were not destroyed at the entrance -of Saladin, A.D. 1187. Willibrand of Oldenburg, A.D. 1219, found them -inhabited by Syrians, who paid tribute to the conquerors; but in the -thirteenth century they were in ruins. In 1336, in consequence of the -treaty (A.D. 1333) concerning the restoration of the Holy Places to the -Friars Minor, between the Sultan of Egypt on one side, and Robert King -of Sicily and his wife Sancia on the other, it was agreed to -re-establish the church and monastery on Sion. After a heavy expenditure -this was done, and the Franciscans took up their quarters there; as is -proved by a bull of Clement V., dated at Avignon, November 21, 1342. -Queen Sancia erected a convent enclosing the Coenaculum on Sion, and -richly endowed it for the support of twelve monks and some lay brothers. -An idea of it may be obtained from the present buildings, allowing for -some modifications. Besides the church and the monks' cells, it included -a large hospital, founded A.D. 1354, by a Florentine lady, Sophia degli -Arcangeli. This was placed under the care of the Fathers by Pope -Innocent in the following year[782]. They were unable to enjoy the -advantages bestowed upon them, owing to the persecution of the -Mohammedans, who not only plundered them by their heavy exactions, but -also put them to death. Indeed, in 1368 all of them were massacred; in -1391, four out of the nine who had succeeded these martyrs; in 1432, -one, John of Calabria; in 1537, all of them were seized, and part -imprisoned in the Tower of the Pisans, while the rest were sent to -Damascus[783]. I have already observed, that, at this time, the Latins -being anxious to preserve certain articles, valuable both from their -sacred nature and intrinsic worth, entrusted them to the Armenians, who -afterwards refused to restore them. The possession of the Sanctuaries on -Sion was confirmed to the Franciscans by several Sultans of Egypt and -Constantinople; this, however, did not prevent their being driven from -the place in 1561; under the twofold pretext, that Sion was fortified, -and so might at any time aid the Christians in making themselves masters -of Jerusalem, and also that it was unbecoming that infidels should -possess the Tomb of David. The monks thereupon retired into a small -house, until they purchased from the Georgians the Convent of the -Column, as I have already mentioned[784]. The Mohammedan Santons -occupied their place; and those who live there at the present time, -according to an order of the Pasha, Governor of the city, countersigned -by the Effendis of his Council, allow the Fathers, or certain pilgrim -priests, to celebrate mass in the building; they also, for a small sum, -permit pilgrims to see the Franciscan Church[785], with the upper part -of the Tomb of David. This, however, probably only occupies a portion of -the earlier church. Like its predecessors, it is divided into two -floors; the lower of which is formed by the substructure of the ancient -building, and consists of two chambers, one of which has a vaulted roof -supported by two piers, and is called the Hall of the Washing the Feet; -the other (and smaller) is also vaulted, and bears the name of the Tomb -of David. The upper story is given on my Plan. The chamber on the east -above the Tomb of David is not always opened to the Christians; this is -shewn as the place of the Descent of the Holy Ghost: the other, on the -west, is the Coenaculum, a Gothic building in the style of the -fourteenth century, erected by the Franciscans. It is divided down the -middle by two granite columns, and half-columns project from the side -walls to correspond with them. I conclude this subject by observing, -that in the buildings on the south and on the west large pieces of -masonry of the time of the Crusades still remain; and that the stables -on the west are the work of Ibrahim Pasha, who, with his attendants, -occupied the whole of the Coenaculum. - -Outside the building of _Neby Daud_, and a little to the north, is the -site of a house, where the Virgin Mary is said to have passed the last -years of her life. Some large stones, on one of which a cross is carved, -mark the spot, in which I have no great belief. Sanutus[786] thus -speaks of it: "Near this spot, a stone's throw to the south, is the -place where the blessed Virgin dwelt after her Son's Ascension into -heaven, and the cell wherein she departed this life." In the -neighbourhood was a chapel dedicated to S. John the Evangelist, which -was seen by Sanutus, who goes on to say, "There also is the Church of -the Blessed John the Evangelist, which was, as it is said, the first of -all the churches; in it this Apostle was wont to offer mass to that most -blessed Queen while he lived in this world." - -We have now only to visit the walled enclosure to the south of the Sion -Gate. This is a small Armenian convent, which is said to occupy the site -of the house of Caiaphas: the tradition dates from the fourth century. I -have already said that the Pilgrim of Bordeaux mentions it, without -however stating that a church stood there. We find in the writings of -Nicephorus Callistus[787], that S. Helena built a church there, and -dedicated it to S. Peter; but this is not confirmed by any one besides. -None of the authors, contemporary with or posterior to S. Helena, allude -to it; and we cannot suppose that this Sanctuary would be omitted in the -Itinerary of S. Paula, which names all the others that were then in -existence. It was unknown at the time of the Crusades, as it is not -recorded by Edrisi, who wrote A.D. 1151, nor by Phocas, in his journey -in Palestine, A.D. 1185. Marinus Sanutus, in the fourteenth century, is -the first writer who mentions it. He calls it the Church of S. Saviour; -the name it still bears[788]. Hence I infer that the church and the -convent adjoining were erected at the end of the thirteenth century, or -at the beginning of the fourteenth. Although the tradition concerning -the House of Caiaphas goes back as far as the fourth century, I believe -it would be difficult to maintain its correctness, as we have no _data_ -whatever from the Bible to assist us in fixing the position of the -High-priest's dwelling. The entrance is by a small door on the north, -near the north-west corner. The church is oblong in plan (50 feet long -by 25 wide), without any architectural features worthy of notice. The -pictures on the walls are ugly and grotesque. In the central altar at -the east end two large pieces of stone are exhibited, which are said to -have formed part of the mass that closed the door of the Sepulchre of -Christ. Their genuineness would be difficult to establish; but, be that -as it may, the Armenians ought to be ashamed of shewing them, as they -were entrusted to them by the Franciscans in 1570, at the time of the -war with Cyprus, and afterwards dishonourably appropriated. There is -neither history nor tradition to support the claims of these stones, and -the Latin Fathers suffer their loss with patience, since their thickness -would not correspond with the size mentioned by the Evangelist[789], -and the little that can be seen of them is enough to shew that they -cannot have belonged to a stone of the right shape. On the south of the -altar is a very small square-headed door leading into a narrow chamber, -in which two persons can scarcely stand. This is said to be the prison -where Jesus was kept during the remainder of the night after he was -brought to Caiaphas. The walls shew no signs of antiquity; the pavement -rests upon a mass of rubbish; the tradition is unfounded, and the place -perhaps was formerly only a closet. In the courts before the church they -point out the spot on which S. Peter stood when he denied his Master, -and where the cock crew! In the interior of the convent the Armenian -Patriarchs and Bishops are buried. I must not forget to observe that a -great number of stones are to be seen in the outer wall and on the -ground, which have been used in monuments; on them are some ancient -Armenian inscriptions. This is an easy way of employing tombstones, when -they lie too close on the ground of a cemetery. - -Before entering the city we descend the eastern slope of Sion by a -foot-path leading to Siloam, and arrive at a small cave, surrounded by -some ruins, which are the remains of the Church of S. Peter at the -Cock-crow, destroyed since the thirteenth century. Tradition reports -that S. Peter retired to this spot to lament his sin after denying his -Redeemer. The church was standing in the ninth century; for Bernard the -Wise writes: "Towards the east is a church in honour of S. Peter, on the -spot where he denied his Lord[790]." John of Wuertzburg informs us that -it belonged to the Greeks in the twelfth century. We read in La Citez de -Jherusalem[791]: "There was a church called S. Peter at the Cock-crow. -In this church was a deep ditch, wherein S. Peter hid himself when he -had denied Jesus Christ, and there he heard the cock crow, and bewailed -his sin." We read also in Edrisi[792]: "From the Sion Gate the road -descends into a ravine called the Valley of Hell, at the end of which is -a church in honour of S. Peter." A few yards to the east of this is a -small Jewish cemetery, now abandoned. Turning back northward from this, -we reach the road which, passing along under the city-wall, leads to the -Sion Gate. - -On entering this we see by the side of the wall to the east some poor -dwellings, built on a level plot of ground, composed of stones and clay. -These are the abodes of the lepers of Jerusalem, where these unhappy -beings live until released by death from their misery. They are called -by the Arabs _Beiut el-Masakim_ (Houses of the Unfortunate), and are -occupied by men, women, and children. Most of them are Mohammedans, but -there are some Christians among them. This leprosy is not white, like -that described in the Bible[793], but is the kind called Elephantiasis. -The skin of the afflicted persons assumes a violet or reddish-grey tint, -and tumours are formed in it, which turn into ulcers of the most -horrible appearance; little by little the extremities of the limbs drop -off, leaving only shapeless stumps behind; the roof of the palate -becomes inflamed and then ulcerates, so that the voice grows harsh, and -at last guttural; and the face and limbs are swollen. This terrible -calamity, which refuses to yield to the efforts of science, is not -contagious, but hereditary. The lepers are not, however, so poor as they -are usually supposed to be. We will not dwell further upon this -miserable sight, but will continue our observations in another chapter. - - -FOOTNOTES: - -[532] Plate XVII. - -[533] Plate XLIX. - -[534] Early Travels, Bohn's Ant. Lib. pp. 4, 19. - -[535] Joel iii. 2. - -[536] Joel iii. 12; Note I. - -[537] 2 Kings xxiii. 6. - -[538] Jer. xxvi. 23. - -[539] Adric. Theat. Terrae Sanctae. De Vall. Jehosh. - -[540] Acts vii. 58. - -[541] Dr Robinson, Biblioth. Sac. III. p. 639. Williams' Holy City, II. -p. 432 (2nd Ed.). Les Eglises, &c. pp. 332, 333. - -[542] Note II. - -[543] 2 Sam. xv. 23. - -[544] 1 Kings xv. 13. - -[545] 2 Chron. xxix. 16; xxx. 14. - -[546] S. John xviii. 1. - -[547] Some of these are now in the collection of the Rev. Churchill -Babington, B.D. Fellow of S. John's College, Cambridge, a distinguished -numismatist. - -[548] Plate L. - -[549] Plate LI. - -[550] Niceph. Hist. Eccl. VIII. 30; Note III. - -[551] Orat. II. De Assumpt. Quoted by Quaresmius, E. T. S. Lib. IV. Pereg. -7, c. 2, Vol. II. pp. 241, 242, ed. 1639. - -[552] Theophanes, Chron. ann. 443. - -[553] Note IV. - -[554] See Euthymius, Lib. III. ch. 40. - -[555] E. T. S. Lib. IV. Pereg. 7, c. 2, Vol. II. p. 242. - -[556] Ant. Piac. XVII. - -[557] Seb. Pauli, Codex Diplomaticus, S. Mil. ord. Jerusal. Said Ibn -Batrik, II. 212; Note V. - -[558] See Theophanes, Chron. ann. 683. - -[559] Early Travels, &c. Bohn's Ant. Lib. p. 19. - -[560] Ibid. p. 28. - -[561] Note VI. - -[562] Les Eglises, &c. p. 308. - -[563] Ibid. p. 307. - -[564] Note VI. - -[565] Les Eglises, &c. p. 307; Note VII. - -[566] Alb. Aquens. Lib. VII. c. 21; Lib. IX. c. 52. Gesta Dei, &c. Vol. -I. pp. 299, 344. - -[567] C. X. Pez. Thes. Anec. Nov. Tom. I. p. 523. - -[568] De Vogue, Les Eglises, &c. p. 309. - -[569] Cod. Dipl. Vol. I. p. 10. - -[570] Citez de Jherusalem. - -[571] Note VIII. - -[572] Liber Secretorum Fidelium Crucis, Lib. III. pars 14, c. 9, p. 256 -(ed. 1611). - -[573] Note IX. - -[574] Note X. - -[575] Plates L., LI. - -[576] Note XI. - -[577] Lib. XVIII. c. 32, Gesta Dei, &c. Tom. II. p. 953 (ed. 1611). - -[578] See Plate LI. (Plan). - -[579] Note XII. - -[580] Page 148. - -[581] Plate LI. - -[582] S. Matt. xxvi. 39; S. Luke xxii. 44. - -[583] S. Matt. xxvi. 36; S. Mark xiv. 32; S. John xviii. 1. - -[584] Liber de Situ et Nom. Loc. Heb. (Gethsemane). - -[585] Early Travels, &c. Bohn's Ant. Lib. p. 4. - -[586] Leo Allat. Sym., p. 57. - -[587] Quoted by M. de Vogue, Les Eglises, &c. p. 314. - -[588] Eluc. T. S. Lib. IV. pereg. 5, c. 9, Tom. II. p. 160. - -[589] Voyage nouveau de la T. S. 1679, I. III. c. 3. - -[590] Plate LII. - -[591] S. Luke xxi. 37; xxii. 29. - -[592] Jewish War, VI. 1, Sec. 1. - -[593] Note XIII. - -[594] S. Matt. xxvi. 38, 40; S. Luke xxii. 45. - -[595] See his description of the city, Note XI, Ch. II. - -[596] Loc. Terrae Sanctae Descriptio, Ch. XLIII. - -[597] See Plates LV., LX., which shew the Plan and Elevation. - -[598] 1 Kings xxii. 50. - -[599] Plate LVIII. - -[600] Guide D'Orient, p. 805. - -[601] Holy City, Vol. II. pp. 451, 452 (2nd Ed.). - -[602] See the elevation and details to Plates LX., LXI. - -[603] Mariti, p. 152. - -[604] Le Pieux Pelerin, p. 404. - -[605] 2 Sam. xviii. 17. - -[606] Ant. VII. 10, Sec. 2. - -[607] 2 Sam. xviii. 6. - -[608] 2 Sam. xviii. 18. - -[609] 2 Kings xxv. 4. - -[610] Ant. VII. 10, Sec. 3. - -[611] E. T. S. Lib. IV. pereg. 5, c. 13, Tom. II. p. 169. - -[612] Plate LX. - -[613] 1 Cor. xv. 7; S. Jerome, de vir. ill. c. 2, from the Gospel of the -Nazarenes; Quaresmius, E. T. S. Lib. IV. pereg. 7, c. 10. - -[614] Ap. Euseb. H. E. II. 23, Sec. 12. - -[615] Plates LX., LXI. - -[616] 2 Chron. xxiv. 20, 21. - -[617] S. Matt. xxiii. 35. - -[618] 2 Kings xxi. 18, 26. - -[619] Narrative of a Journey round the Red Sea, &c. Vol. II. pp. 223-244 -(edited by Count E. de Warren). - -[620] Biblical Researches, Vol. I. p. 521 (First Ed.). - -[621] Chap. III. p. 94. - -[622] Isai. viii. 6. - -[623] Nehem. iii. 15. - -[624] S. John ix. 7. - -[625] Jewish War, II. 16, Sec. 2; V. 4, Secs. 1, 2; V. 9, Sec. 4. - -[626] S. John vii. 37, 38. - -[627] Succah, v. - -[628] Jennings, Jewish Antiquities, Book 3, c. 6. - -[629] Comment in Is. Lib. III. c. 8. - -[630] Hist. Eccl. Book VIII. c. 30. - -[631] Itiner. Chap. XX. - -[632] De Perenni Cultu T. S. Lib. II. - -[633] Hist. Hieros. VI. 6. G. D. p. 276. - -[634] Fabri, I. 420. - -[635] Historia Francorum qui ceperunt Hierusalem. - -[636] See the chapter on the Waters. - -[637] Histor. de Hierosolymitano itinere. Duchesne, Hist. Franc. Script. -Vol. IV. - -[638] S. John ix. 7. - -[639] Jewish War, V. 4, Sec. 2. See also p. 31. - -[640] See Origen, Comment. in Matt. Tom. X. c. 18, and Ep. ad Africanum, -c. 9, also Homil. in Isa. I. c. 5 (ed. 1740); also Tertull. de -Patientia, c. 14; and Jerome Comment. in Isaiam, Lib. XVI. c. 57 (ad -fin.). - -[641] Histoire de l'Etat present de Jer. p. 206. - -[642] Ch. II. p. 26. - -[643] 2 Kings xxv. 4; Jer. xxxix. 4; lii. 7. - -[644] Plate XLVIII. - -[645] 2 Maccab. i. 19, 22. - -[646] 2 Maccab. i. 33-36. For Nephi the Greek text has Nephthaei. - -[647] Josh. xv. 7, 8; xviii. 16. - -[648] 2 Sam. xvii. 17. - -[649] 1 Kings i. 9. - -[650] See Chapter II. p. 21. - -[651] Descrip. T. S. Pez. Thes. Anec. Nov. Tom. I. pars 3, p. 509. - -[652] Plate LXI. - -[653] S. Luke xiii. 4. - -[654] Ch. II. p. 21; Plate LII. - -[655] S. Luke xix. 37-41. - -[656] S. Luke xix. 37. - -[657] Fetell. de Situ Jherusalem, 236. - -[658] Fabri, I. 387. - -[659] Acts i. 11. - -[660] Acts i. 9-11. - -[661] E. T. S. Lib. IV. pereg. 9, c. 11, Tom. II. p. 320. - -[662] Note XIV. - -[663] Acts i. 12. - -[664] S. Luke xxiv. 50, 51. - -[665] Histoire de l'Etat present de Jer. p. 157. - -[666] Dan. xi. 45. - -[667] De Vita Christi, Pars II. c. lxxxii. - -[668] Rosh Hashanah, c. II. hal. 2, 3. - -[669] Hist. Eccl. Lib. IV. c. 5. Mentioned also by Socrates, Hist. Eccl. -Lib. II. c. 28, as seen at Antioch. - -[670] Jewish War, V. 2, Secs. 3, 4. - -[671] Plate I. - -[672] Lament. i. 1. - -[673] Lament. i. 12. - -[674] Plate LIII. - -[675] Vita Const. III. 43. - -[676] Liber nom. loc. ex Actis 'Mons Oliveti.' - -[677] Jerome, Ibid. Cf. Epit. Paulae. Euseb. Vita Const. III. 40. -Paulinus, De Cruce Christi. - -[678] Baron. Ann. Eccl. 616. - -[679] Adamn. de Loc. Sanct. Lib. I. c. 17. Quoted by Quaresm. E. T. S. -Lib. IV. pereg. 9, c. 6, Vol. II. p. 310. Abridged in Early Travels, -Bohn's Ant. Lib. p. 5, cf. p. 19. - -[680] James de Vitry, c. LVIII. Gesta Dei &c. Vol. II. p. 1078. - -[681] Citez de Jherusalem; Les Eglises &c. p. 444. - -[682] Les Eglises &c. p. 316. - -[683] The building is certainly not accurate: the range of variation of -the sides is rather more than M. de Vogue represents it to be. - -[684] Very great want, they are all different. - -[685] None of the ancient wall remains; all that is there is common Arab -work, therefore I attach no weight to this argument. - -[686] Eluc. T. S. Lib. IV. pereg. 9, c. 8, Tom. II. p. 313. - -[687] Radulph. Coggesh. Chron. T. S. apud Martene et Durand. Tom. V. pp. -566, 567. - -[688] For details, see Plate LIII. - -[689] Itiner. in Symmik. Leo Allatius (p. 150, ed. 1653). - -[690] Plate LX. - -[691] Vita Const. Lib. III. c. 43. - -[692] Cf. Citez de Jherusalem, De Vogue, p. 444. - -[693] Gesta Francorum expugnantium Hierosol. 25. - -[694] S. Matt. v. 1; vi. 9. - -[695] S. Luke xi. 1. - -[696] The Holy City, Vol. II. p. 446 (2nd Ed.). - -[697] Quoted by Quaresmius, Lib. II. pereg. 9, c. 1, Tom. II. p. 302. - -[698] S. Mark xiii. 3. - -[699] Plate LIV. - -[700] Voyage nouveau de la Terre Sainte, III. c. 4. - -[701] Matt. xxiii. 29. - -[702] Luke xi. 47. - -[703] Comment in c. xxi. p. 435, ed. 1685. - -[704] Comment in c. xxi. Evang. Matt. Lib. III. - -[705] Ep. CVIII. _Ad Eustochium Virginem_ (Vol. I. p. 837, Ed. Migue). - -[706] E. T. S. Lib. IV. pereg. 10, c. 11, Tom. II. pp. 333, 334; S. Matth. -xxi. 1, 2. - -[707] Epiph. adv. Haeret. Lib. I. Tom. III. Refut. 53 (p. 340, ed. 1622). - -[708] S. John xi. 1-40. - -[709] S. Matt. xxvi. 6-9; S. John xii. 3. - -[710] S. John xi. 18. - -[711] S. John xi. 19; xii. 1-3. - -[712] Plate LIV. - -[713] Mariti, c. XV. Sec. 8. - -[714] Hist. Eccl. Lib. VIII. c. 30. - -[715] Jerome, Epitaph. Paulae, Ep. CVIII. (_Ad Eustochium Virginem_). - -[716] Jerome, Onomastic. ad vocem Bethan., Ep. CVIII. (_Ad Eustochium -Virginem_). - -[717] Acta Sanct. ord. Bened. saec. iii. p. 2. Early Travels, p. 6. -Bohn's Ant. Lib. - -[718] Itinerarium in Loc. S. (Acta Sanct. ord. Bened. saec. iii. p. 2). -See also E. T. p. 28. - -[719] See Ch. V. page 146. - -[720] Cartul., p. 61. - -[721] Cartul., p. 27. - -[722] William of Tyre, Lib. XV. c. 26 (G. D. p. 887). - -[723] Cartul. H. S., p. 61 (A.D. 1144). - -[724] No. 20, Cod. Dipl. Tom. I. - -[725] S. Matt. xxi. 18, 19. - -[726] Josh. xv. 8; xviii. 16. - -[727] Note XV. - -[728] Isai. xxx. 33. - -[729] Jerome, Comment. in S. Matth. c. x. v. 28. - -[730] Jer. vii. 32; cf. xix. 6, 11. - -[731] Jewish War, V. 12, Sec. 2. - -[732] Plate LX. (Fig. 6). - -[733] Plate XLVII. - -[734] Plate LX. fig. 8. Plate XLVII. - -[735] Jewish War, V. 12, Sec. 2. - -[736] Plate LV. fig. 5. - -[737] Anton. Piac. XXV. - -[738] Universal Geography of Edrisi, Climate, III. Sec. 5, Tom. I. p. 345, -Paris, A.D. 1836. - -[739] Acts i. 19. - -[740] S. Matth. xxvii. 7, 8. - -[741] Jer. xix. 11. - -[742] Hist. Eccl. Lib. VIII. c. 30. - -[743] La Citez de Jherusalem, De Vogue, p. 442. - -[744] Ch. II. p. 41. - -[745] De Perenni Cultu Terrae Sanctae, Lib. II. Quoted by Quaresm. E. T. S. -Lib. VI. pereg. 1, c. 3, Vol. II. p. 596. - -[746] 2 Sam. xi. 2. - -[747] Beersheba, E. V.; Gen. xxvi. 33; +Bersabee+ in LXX; Josh. xv. 28, -and afterwards. - -[748] Isai. xxii. 9. - -[749] La Citez de Jherusalem, De Vogue, p. 442. - -[750] Plate XLV. - -[751] 2 Sam. v. 7, 9. - -[752] 1 Kings ii. 10. - -[753] Note XIV. - -[754] Nehem. iii. 15, 16. - -[755] Ant. XIII. 8, Sec. 4. - -[756] Ant. XVI. 7, Sec. 1. - -[757] Acts ii. 29. - -[758] Dio Cassius in Hadriani Vita. - -[759] Jerome, Epist. ad Marcellam. - -[760] The Travels of Rabbi Benjamin of Tudela. 'Early Travels in -Palestine,' Bohn's Ant. Lib. p. 85. - -[761] Pineda, de Rebus Salomonis, Lib. VIII. c. 3. - -[762] Les Saints Lieux, Tom. II. c. xxvi. p. 361, Paris, 1858. He should -have mentioned that it was in the company of the Duke of Brabant, -otherwise neither would the Pasha have troubled himself about the -matter, nor the Santon have allowed him to enter the court. - -[763] F. Fabri, Eigentliche Beschreybung der Hin und Widerfarth zu dem -heil. Land gen Jerusalem, Tom. I. p. 225, 1556. - -[764] Plate XLVI. - -[765] Plates LVI., LIX. - -[766] Plate XLVI. - -[767] Plate XLVI. - -[768] S. Mark xiv. 15; S. Luke xxii. 12. - -[769] S. Luke xxiv. 36, 39-43, 45; S. John xx. 19-22. - -[770] S. John xx. 26, 27. - -[771] Acts i. 26. - -[772] Acts ii. 1-4. - -[773] Acts ii. 14-41. - -[774] De Mensuris et Ponderibus, c. 14; Quaresm. E. T. S. Lib. IV. pereg. -4, c. 4, Tom. II. p. 122. - -[775] Catech. Lect. XVI. 'The Library of the Fathers,' Vol. II. p. 205. - -[776] Lib. VIII. c. 30. - -[777] Epitaphium Paulae. - -[778] Le Quien, Oriens Christ. Vol. III. p. 162, col. 2. - -[779] Note XVII. - -[780] Gesta Francorum Expugn. Hieros. c. XXVI. G. D. p. 573. - -[781] Les Eglises de la Terre Sainte, p. 324. - -[782] The bulls are given by Quaresmius, Elucidatio T. S. Lib. II., c. -18, Vol. I. pp. 404, 405. - -[783] So it is stated in the Chronicles preserved in the Convent of S. -Saviour at Jerusalem. - -[784] Page 160. - -[785] Plate XLVI. - -[786] Liber Secretorum fidelium Crucis, Lib. III. pars 14, c. 8, p. 255 -(ed. 1611). - -[787] Hist. Eccl. Lib. VIII. c. 30. - -[788] Liber Secretorum fidelium Crucis, Lib. III. pars 14, c. 8, p. 254. - -[789] S. Mark xvi. 3, 4. - -[790] Early Travels, p. 28. The author is at variance with the ordinary -tradition on this point. The denial must have taken place at the house -of Caiaphas. - -[791] Quoted in De Vogue, Les Eglises, &c. p. 442. - -[792] Geographie Univ. par. v. clim. 3, p. 444. - -[793] Lev. xiii. - - - - -CHAPTER VII. - - EXCURSIONS IN THE NEIGHBOURHOOD OF THE CITY ON THE NORTH AND - WEST--THE MONUMENT OF HELENA OF ADIABENE, AND THE CHURCH DEDICATED - TO S. STEPHEN--ROYAL CAVERNS--GROTTO OF JEREMIAH--HOUSE OF THE - VINE--TOMBS OF THE KINGS--SHEIKH JERRAH--ANCIENT SYNAGOGUE--TOMB OF - SIMON THE JUST--TOMBS AT THE HEAD OF THE KIDRON VALLEY--KIDRON - POOL--VARIOUS TOMBS ON THE NORTH-WEST--TOMBS OF THE JUDGES--SHEIKH - AYMAR--RUSSIAN BUILDINGS--VALLEY OF GIHON--BIRKET - MAMILLAH--MONUMENT OF HEROD, AND RUINS OF THE CHURCH OF S. - BABYLAS--GREEK CONVENT OF THE HOLY CROSS--PROPERTY OF THE - ARCHIMANDRITE NICOFERUS. - - -Let us return to the picturesque Damascus Gate[794], and begin our -examination from this point. In the first chapter[795] I mentioned that -there was a Cufic inscription under the archway on the west side; this -contains the Mohammedan confession of faith, namely, "There is no God -but God, and Mohammed is his Prophet." Outside the gate, on either hand, -is a mound, formed by the continual accumulation of rubbish and soil -which have been brought and cast down here for many centuries; the last -addition being on the building of the Austrian hospice in 1857. These -render it impossible to see the full extent of the ditch, which was made -in the reign of Agrippa to defend the city-walls[796]. Following the -road northward, some chiselled rocks are seen on the left hand, which I -have already[797] stated to be, in my opinion, the remains of the -monument of Helena of Adiabene. We must now consider the claims of this -place to be the scene of S. Stephen's martyrdom; since we saw[798] that -the present site, near S. Mary's church, was inadmissible. The -Bible[799] tells us no more than that the Saint was "cast out of the -city;" and as S. Paul witnessed the martyr's death, he may not -improbably have pointed out the place to the Christians. In the fourth -century this was said by tradition to be on the north of the city, as -we gather from a letter of the Priest Lucian, preserved by -Quaresmius[800]: "He was stoned outside the north gate, which leads to -Kedar." In the fifth century a magnificent church was erected here by -the Empress Eudoxia, in honour of S. Stephen. This must have been built -between the years A.D. 450 and A.D. 461, as she resided at Jerusalem -during that period, having retired there on the death of her husband, -Theodosius II., and died in 461; that is, in the fourth year of the -reign of Leo I., Emperor of the East[801]. She was buried in this -church[802]. From Evagrius[803] we also learn that "she built a church -in memory of S. Stephen, Proto-deacon and Proto-martyr, of remarkable -magnificence and beauty, which is not a stadium distant from Jerusalem." -This place is about a stadium from the Damascus Gate. Nicephorus -Callistus[804] also informs us that the church was the above distance -from the city, and was of great size and beauty. This church is also -celebrated for the synod which assembled there, A.D. 518, at the -instigation of S. Saba, to maintain the decisions of the Council of -Chalcedon, at which a great number of monks was present; and we learn -incidentally from the author of S. Saba's life[805], that the church was -"able to hold a very large multitude." Antoninus of Piacenza, in the -sixth century, calls the present Damascus gate the Gate of S. Stephen, -and expressly states that through it was the way to Caesarea and -Diospolis, so that there can be no doubt of his meaning. This name was -retained until the walls of Jerusalem were rebuilt by Solyman I., A.D. -1536, when it was changed, for what reason history does not tell us; but -we may conjecture that the church had by this time disappeared, and the -tradition was misinterpreted by the Christians. The church built by -Eudoxia can scarcely have escaped destruction during the persecutions of -Chosroes II. in 614, and Hakem in 1010; but it was probably rebuilt on a -smaller scale, for we learn from Robert the Monk[806], an author of the -time of the first Crusade, who describes the details of the siege, that -"the Counts of Normandy and Flanders encamped on the north of the city, -near the church of S. Stephen the Proto-martyr, on the spot where he was -stoned by the Jews." Again, Saewulf[807] informs us that "the stoning of -S. Stephen took place about two or three arbalist-shots without the -wall, to the north, where a very handsome church was built, which was -entirely destroyed by the Pagans." Again, we find the following allusion -in Albert of Aix[808]: "But Robert, Prince of the Normans, and the -British Count, pitched their tents near the walls, where is the oratory -of the Proto-martyr Stephen." Hence it is evident that up to the -eleventh century, the traditional site of the Saint's martyrdom was -always on the north of the city; and that the ruined church of Eudoxia -was replaced by an oratory, which was also destroyed by the Mohammedans -on the approach of the first Crusaders. The church was rebuilt in the -earlier part of the twelfth century under the Latin kingdom, for it is -marked on the Plan of the Brussels manuscript with this title, -'Monasterium S. Stephani[809],' and is by the side of the north gate, -there called 'Porta S. Stephani Septentrionalis.' It was served by the -monks of a convent, which, however, is not mentioned in any history; but -its seal has been published by Sebastian Pauli. Before its doors ran the -Royal road[810], along which all the pilgrims from beyond the sea -travelled to Jerusalem. On the other side of the road, on the left hand -going to the city, "was a great house in front of this church, which was -called the _asnerie_; there they were wont to keep the asses and beasts -of burden of the house of the Hospital, whence its name _asnerie_. The -Christians of Jerusalem destroyed this church of S. Stephen before they -were besieged, because it was near the walls. The _asnerie_ however was -not demolished, as it was used by the pilgrims who came to Jerusalem in -time of truce[811]." Indeed, on the east of the road leading to -Jerusalem, opposite to the rocks marking the site of the church of -Eudoxia, are some cisterns; and traces of walls are found when the -labourers are digging in the fields, the sole remains of the buildings -that once stood here. The Church of S. Stephen was, as we have said, -destroyed by the Crusaders, A.D. 1187, to prevent its covering the -advance of Saladin's troops towards the walls. Willibrand of -Oldenburg[812] saw its ruins in 1211, and must have occupied the -_asnerie_, for he speaks of "a certain house situated near the walls. At -this place S. Stephen was martyred, in whose honour our faithful, as -still appears, founded a church and archiepiscopate, where now the -Sultan's asses are kept ... with the materials of the church a dunghill -has been formed." The ruins of this church and _asnerie_ have -disappeared in the course of time; the tradition itself has been -transplanted to another locality, as we have seen, and would now pass -for correct, were it not for the historic documents which have preserved -for us the probable position of S. Stephen's martyrdom. - -Between the Church of S. Stephen and the north-west corner of the city, -near the bastions of the walls, was the men's lazaretto, with a church -dedicated to S. Lazarus. By the side of it was the small gate of S. -Ladro, where the Royal road from the north came to an end by joining -that which went from S. Stephen's Gate[813]. - -Going back from the place of S. Stephen's martyrdom towards the Damascus -Gate, we find on the left a road leading eastward; and on the right of -this is an aperture, under the city-walls, which stand on a high rock; -and close to the aperture a deep excavation. These are the Royal -Caverns, and opposite to them, on the north, is the so-called Grotto of -Jeremiah[814]. I have already mentioned[815], in speaking of the third -line of walls, that I consider these two spots, now separated, to have -been formerly united; and now, in giving a more minute account of them, -I trust to shew that I am right in my opinion, and that the first-named -place has been properly identified with the Royal Caverns of Josephus. -It is not unfrequently stated in Jerusalem, that Dr Barclay discovered -these great caves, which I call the Royal Caverns: and perhaps he was -the first European in this century to describe them, but they were not -unknown to the inhabitants of the country. They are called by the Arabs -_Megharet el-Kotton_ (the Cotton Grotto), and were known to -Mejir-ed-Din, who thus writes of them: "Opposite to and to the south of -the _Zahara_" (a Mohammedan cemetery situated above the Grotto of -Jeremiah), "and below the northern gate of the city, is a great oblong -excavation, called the Cotton Grotto, and some say that it even extends -below the _Sakharah_." The notion, indeed, was common in the country, -that from these caverns it was possible to penetrate into the _Haram -es-Sherif_: so that the adherents of the government would not allow any -one to enter them. The Bedouins, however, and the Arabs of the country, -took possession of them during the insurrection, and threatened to blow -them up if their demands were not satisfied. I claim the merit of having -rendered the passage practicable, and contributed to prove that there is -no communication between them and the _Haram_. I have also made a -correct plan of them, and conducted many persons thither, acting as -their guide; among others, His Excellency Surraya Pasha, M. de Barrere, -Consul of France and M. Gerardy Saintine, who in his book 'Trois ans en -Judee' has entirely availed himself of my discoveries, which I shewed -him, without acknowledging his obligation to me for them, and for the -two Plans of ancient and modern Jerusalem annexed to his book, which -were furnished by me. - -Nothing can be more surprising than these caverns, which seem to have -been excavated by the generations of old, as a challenge to posterity. -Immense halls, with their roofs supported by piers of natural rock, -exhibit in their sides openings leading into long dark galleries, -terminating in other chambers of large dimensions. On the left hand is a -disordered heap of accumulated fragments of rock, a pile of enormous -limestone blocks, lying in confusion one on the other; the spaces -between which have been filled up by the soil falling down from above, -so that on one side it rises like a rugged hill, on another presents a -gentle slope; but any one who incautiously attempts to traverse it has -reason to repent of his undertaking. At the south end of the first -excavation is a kind of fountain, surrounded by stalactites of the -strangest shape, which have arranged themselves so as to form a sort of -lengthened dome. The water, which falls in drops from above into the -little basin, is not good to drink. It is brackish, and from my -investigations I have come to the conclusion that it is not supplied by -a spring, but filters through from the cisterns excavated in the rock -above: in fact, in the rainy season there is an abundant supply, but in -summer it is dried up. It becomes brackish in passing through the rock, -which contains many saline and ferruginous particles. Going eastward -from this fountain, we pass along a cliff on the right hand, while on -the left high white walls of rock shew the cavities from which the large -stones have been extracted. At last we arrive at the deepest part, where -is a chamber about 260 feet long, where we can examine in detail the -manner in which the ancients quarried the monolithic columns, the great -building stones, and large paving slabs. I think that the monolith in -the vaults of _el-Aksa_, in the inner chamber of the Gate of Huldah, was -taken from these caves; for here we find a place where a column of stone -still hangs down from the roof, like a great stalactite. On comparing -with this the measurements of the monolith, they were found to -correspond in width and height; and the conjecture is still further -confirmed by the colour and character of the stone. The process by which -the blocks were extracted can be examined in the side walls. The masses -were separated from the rock by vertical grooves nearly four inches -wide, the inner boundary of which is a quadrant of a circle. These I -believe to have been cut with a circular disk, worked with a handle, -which moved it backwards and forwards through a half-revolution. At the -present time the Arab masons use an instrument of the same kind in -making a groove in a wall. When the groove was made of a sufficient -depth to give a stone of the required thickness, they detached it with a -pick, or raised the hinder face which adhered to the rock; this explains -the great width of the vertical groove: consequently in the process of -quarrying the stone was cut smooth on three faces. I have frequently -measured the cavities from which blocks have been removed, and also the -stones themselves which have been left partially attached to the rock, -or which are lying on the ground, and found them correspond perfectly -with many large blocks built into the east side of the _Haram_ wall, -more especially in its lower parts. Moreover, the mineral character of -the stones is the same; so that I am fully persuaded that these caverns -were made by Solomon, when he built the Temple, and were afterward -enlarged by Herod for the same purpose, and by Agrippa for the new or -third lines of walls, which he was obliged to leave unfinished. The -stones quarried here well deserve the term applied to them by -Josephus[816], that they were 'exceeding white.' Before leaving these -caverns I should warn the traveller that he ought not to visit them -alone, relying simply on his own powers and his map for finding his way -out again, but should take a guide, or at least a companion, and leave -another trusty friend at the entrance. Of late years the place has -become a haunt of ill-disposed persons, who retire here, not to lie in -wait for travellers, but to celebrate their orgies; and therefore the -stranger may, if alone, be pelted, without knowing where his assailant -is. Besides, the road is not very safe in parts, and not easy to find by -the light of a single candle. In winter, during the rainy season, let no -one risk a journey in them; the falls of stone which happen at that time -are sometimes not only alarming, but even fatal. In 1857 a large rock -detached itself, and fell with a loud crash, while I was measuring at -the eastern end of the cavern. I felt far from comfortable until I found -that the way back was still open, and I speedily availed myself of it, -carrying out, with the help of my European servant, an Arab youth, whom -the noise had frightened out of his senses. The pure air outside is -refreshing, for the small opening which forms the entrance is -insufficient for proper ventilation, and the close dense atmosphere -within often causes faintness. This opening is only the upper part of -the ancient one; formerly the caverns were entered through a large gap, -which is now built up, and in a great measure buried in the soil. From -this place the blocks of stone were transported into the city through -the ancient North Gate, as I have already mentioned[817]. - -Let us now visit the Grotto of Jeremiah, where, according to tradition, -the Prophet composed the Book of Lamentations. At the first glance we -recognize it as the continuation of the caverns we have just quitted; -and noticing the horizontal strata of limestone, from which the great -blocks in the city-wall have been extracted, can readily conceive that -those huge masses, mentioned by Josephus[818], may have been quarried -here, although we cannot now find any traces of them. To enter this -grotto we must obtain permission of a dervish, the keeper of the place; -who, however, never refuses, as he not only hopes to receive a present, -which he applies to adorn his retreat, but also is a man of a kind and -courteous nature. - -On passing the entrance we find, on the right hand, a large rectangular -chamber, the walls of which at first sight appear to be entirely Arab -masonry; but a careful examination detects large blocks of Roman -workmanship, especially in the lower parts, and a piece of wall of the -date of S. Helena. I am confirmed in my opinion on this point by the -words of Nicephorus Callistus[819], who informs us that this Empress -built a church near the grotto; therefore it is not improbable that -these may be the remains of that edifice. To the east of the above -chamber is a little irregular court, on the north of which is a very -deep cistern excavated in the rock; and on the south is a cavern of -great size, which has been converted into a cistern. This is perhaps the -origin of the tradition that here was the dungeon in which the prophet -was placed[820]. The tradition is inadmissible, whatever system be -adopted for the line of the third wall; for in any case this place would -be outside the second wall, and therefore a palace and a prison[821] -would not occupy this position. Beneath the vaulting formed by the rock -is the tomb of a Mohammedan santon, and a court enclosed by a low wall, -in which the followers of the Prophet come to pray; where also the -good-natured dervish has sometimes allowed the parties of distinguished -travellers to lunch after a long excursion round the city-walls. The -interior of the grotto in every part affords unquestionable signs of its -having been a stone-quarry; for the cavities left by the blocks are -still visible, and the holes on which the workmen have been engaged. I -think therefore that this place was separated from the Royal -Caverns[822] in quarrying stone, and may, strictly speaking, be called a -part of them. Dr Schultz[823] has endeavoured to identify the grotto -with the monument of Alexander Jannaeus, because of the statement in -Josephus[824], "that John and his party defended the tower Antonia, and -the northern cloister of the Temple, and fought the Romans before the -monuments of King Alexander." As these posts were held by John, after -Titus had taken the outer line of walls, this position is of course -inadmissible according to my theory; but putting that out of the -question, it seems to me very improbable that Alexander, whom we know to -have been honoured with a magnificent funeral[825], would have been -buried in a place like this; and after the most careful examination of -the interior, I have not been able to discover the slightest trace of -sepulchral chambers; nothing beyond the chiselled faces of the limestone -rock and heaps of rubbish. - -Quitting the grotto we mount above it to the Mohammedan cemetery, called -by the Arabs _Turbet ez-Zahara_, whence a view of the city is obtained; -which, though limited, will, I think, shew the correctness of the -position I assign to Bezetha. - -Proceeding hence towards the north-east corner of the city, we find the -Pilgrims' Pool, _Birket el-Hijah_, close to the Gate of Herod on the -east, as I have already remarked[826]. This reservoir was unquestionably -at first constructed to receive the waters of the narrow valley above, -which I call the North Valley; whence they were conducted by a -subterranean conduit across the city to the Pool of Bethesda. Its walls -are formed of ancient blocks, perhaps of the date of Herod, or even of -an earlier period; but have been greatly modified afterwards in the -construction of a vault (now in ruins) which covers the greater part of -it. The Christian tradition concerning this pool differs so much from -the Mohammedan, that I transcribe it, without however in any way -asserting its truth. It says that, when the Empress Helena arrived at -Jerusalem, she chose to enter it with all humility; and so without pomp, -clad in a mean dress and barefoot, she entered the Gate of Herod; and -that this circumstance gave the pool its name. From this point to the -north-east corner the city-wall rises but slightly above the general -level of the ground; consequently this is the weakest part of the -defences, although it is strengthened by a ditch. Here it was that -Godfrey of Bouillon scaled the wall and captured the city. - -North of the pool is a plateau, on which stands an ancient Arab house, -overshadowed by an old pine-tree, and surrounded by an olive-grove. This -is called _Kerm es-Sheikh_ (the farm or vineyard of the chief). The -Mohammedan authorities of the highest rank who come to the Holy City, -either as its governors or as pilgrims, are accustomed to pass the night -here before their entry, and prepare themselves (as they say) by prayer -to visit Jerusalem. There is a curious Mohammedan tradition attached to -the place which may interest the reader; it is as follows: "When the -potent and valorous Nebuchadnezzar, Sultan of Babylon, came to Jerusalem -by the Divine command to punish the Jews who had abandoned the laws -given them by God, he despoiled the Temple of all its valuables; -reserving for himself the throne of Solomon, with its two golden lions -which spoke by the power of magic, and distributing the rest of the -booty to the other Kings who had joined him in the expedition. The King -of Roum had the coat of Adam and the rod of Moses; the King of Antioch -received the throne of Belkis and the miraculous peacock, whose tail, -all studded with gems, formed a rich back to the throne; the King of -Andalusia had the Prophet's golden table. A smaller coffer of common -stone, containing the Law (_Torat_), lay in the middle of all these rich -prizes, and no one heeded it; though it was the most precious of all -treasures. It was consequently abandoned, and disappeared in the -confusion that reigned during the sack of the city. Forty years -afterwards God determined to re-establish the children of Israel in -their old fatherland, and raised up the Prophet Euzer (Ezra); who, -destined by Heaven for a glorious mission, had spent his youth in -prayers and meditation, despising human knowledge in order to devote -himself to the contemplation of the Eternal. He had lived in one of the -grottoes that surround the Holy City[827]; but now came forth from his -retreat, and went among the children of Israel to shew them how they -ought to rebuild the Temple, and again worship God befittingly, -according to the ancient rites. But the people, having little faith in -the Prophet's mission, declared that they would not submit to the laws, -but would rather leave off rebuilding the Temple and emigrate to another -country, if the book were not produced in which Moses had written the -Law given to him by God on Mount Sinai. This book, as we have seen, had -disappeared, and all endeavours to discover it were vain. In this -difficulty Euzer with earnest prayers entreated God to interfere, and -hinder the people from persisting in their blindness. He was seated in a -vineyard, on the spot where the pine-tree now stands, regarding with -sorrow the ruins of the Temple, around which the tumultuous populace was -assembled. Suddenly a voice from heaven commanded him to write; and -though he had never before taken a pen in his hand, he obeyed at once: -From the hour of mid-day prayer to the same time on the morrow, without -eating or washing, he wrote down all that the heavenly voice dictated; -and stopped not for the darkness of night, for a supernatural light -illumined his spirit, and an Angel guided his hand. All the Jews beheld -with amazement this manifestation of the Divine Power; but when the -Prophet had finished his miraculous writing, the Priests, jealous of the -special favour shewn to him, asserted that the new book was an invention -of the devil, and did not in any respect resemble the former one. Euzer -again betook himself to prayer, and, yielding to a sudden inspiration, -directed his steps to the fountain of Siloam, followed by all the -people. When he arrived before it he raised his hands to heaven, and -offered up a prayer to the Almighty, while the multitude knelt around. -Suddenly a square stone rose above the surface of the water, and glided -along as if supported by an invisible hand; in which the Priests -recognized with terror the long-missing sacred coffer. Euzer received it -reverently, and opened it with his own hands: the _Torat_ of Moses -sprang out as though endowed with life; and the new copy, quitting the -Prophet's bosom, took its place. All doubt was now at an end; -nevertheless the holy man bade the Priests compare the two copies. They, -despite of their confusion, did so; and, after a long examination, -lifted up their voices and proclaimed that the two books did not differ -by so much as a word or an accent. After they had rendered this homage -to truth, they were struck with a life-long blindness, as a punishment -for their former crimes." Though the whole of this story is but an -Oriental fantasy, it is curious for its mention of the Law, and the -circumstances and persons it records. - -On the north, a few yards from the _Kerm es-Sheikh_, is an old -Mohammedan cemetery, in which are some tombstones with ancient dates; -none, however, earlier than the time of Saladin. - -Going on northward over cultivated land planted with olives, we arrive -at the Tombs of the Kings. I may observe, that during all this walk -nothing is seen but a reddish clayey soil with a rich vegetation, or -bare rocks without any marks of chiselling; nor are there traces of -walls nor any dressed stones; all which proves, in my opinion, that this -ground never formed part of the city; which must in that case, have had -its houses and walls built of shapeless fragments and clay, of which -there is no lack. - -To visit the Tombs of the Kings[828], called by the Arabs _Kubur -el-Maluk_, we descend a slope, from west to east, which originally was a -staircase with wide steps hewn in the rock; but its form has been -completely hidden by the quantity of soil mixed with fragments of stone, -which have been accumulated by the rain, the wind, and the hand of man. -However, I ascertained that it once existed by an excavation at the top -of the slope on the west, where I discovered three steps. At the lower -end is an aperture of irregular shape, formed in the rock, through which -I entered into a cave, after much trouble in clearing away the rubbish -that blocked it up, and was able to determine, notwithstanding the -accumulation of earth within, that it had never contained sepulchral -chambers, but had been a cistern, large though not deep. Towards the -eastern end of the wall, on the left hand as we descend, is a -round-headed doorway hewn out of the rock, and ornamented with a small -incised fillet. It is buried up to the spring of the arch, so that it is -necessary to stoop in order to enter it. I began to make an excavation -to examine its full height, but the large stones which I found below the -surface would have rendered the completion of the undertaking so -expensive that I abandoned it. However, I uncovered the door to a height -of 8-1/2 feet including the arch. It leads into a rectangular court, -open to the air, and surrounded by vertical walls hewn in the rock, as -is the floor, which is buried under rubbish formed of the earth brought -down by the rains from the fields above, and broken stones thrown in by -the Arabs; who, barbarians as they are, exhibit the most provoking -indifference to the preservation of ancient monuments, and view with a -jealous eye everything that interests visitors, often mutilating what -they cannot entirely destroy. - -In the west wall of this court a vestibule is excavated with remarkable -skill, the roof of which was formerly supported by two columns, also -hewn out of the rock: these have now disappeared, owing to the effects -of individual Vandalism, and the injuries of the earthquake in 1837. M. -de Saulcy[829] has given the following excellent description of this -monument: "Above the porch, on the face of the rock itself, runs a long -frieze, carved with exquisite taste and delicacy. The centre of the -frieze is occupied by a bunch of grapes, an emblem of the promised land, -and the habitual type of the Asmonaean coinage. To the right and left of -this bunch are placed symmetrically a triple palm, carved with the -greatest elegance, a crown and triglyphs, alternating with paterae, or -round shields, three times repeated[830]. Below this runs a rich garland -of foliage and fruit, falling down at right angles on each side of the -opening of the porch. The left-hand portion of this garland has been -much more injured by time than that on the right. Above the line of the -triglyphs a fine cornice begins, formed of elegant mouldings, -unfortunately much damaged, and rising up to the top of the rock, that -is to say, nearly to the level of the surrounding country." The -left-hand portion of this cornice is almost destroyed, not only by the -Arabs, but also by the Americans; among whom a certain Mr Jones has -especially distinguished himself by breaking off all the ornaments that -could be carried away. Beyrout and Jaffa have been the chief centres of -his destructive industry, so that he has destroyed the few monuments of -Phoenicia and of Palestine that remained in their original positions. -Hammer in hand, and dead to every sense of artistic beauty, he chops off -fragments from the inscriptions of Sesostris, from the columns of -Baalbek, and from the monuments of Jerusalem. The Tombs of the Kings -have suffered more at his hands than from all the hostile invasions that -have devastated Palestine. - -On descending into the vestibule, we see in its south wall a small low -door, which can only be passed by creeping on the ground. Here, though -the result of my observations[831] will be found to differ from those of -M. de Saulcy, I take this opportunity of expressing my respect for him, -as one of the first persons to investigate with technical precision the -monuments of Palestine. We come, then, to the entrance of the sepulchral -chambers, by descending six steps hewn in the rock, which start from a -circular hollow about two feet deeper than the general level of the -floor of the vestibule, in which, no doubt, the funeral ceremonies were -completed. I removed all the stones from this place in order to be able -to give an exact account of it. On the left-hand side of the door in a -kind of narrow gutter, which joins the steps again by a course of three -sides of an oblong, is a large stone of an ellipsoidal form, the outline -near the extremities of the shorter axis being flat instead of curved. -On the right hand is a hollow in the wall, into which one of the apses -of this stone was inserted. This arrangement enables us to form an -accurate idea of the manner in which the Tomb of Christ was closed. The -stone now rests with one of its apses on the ground, so that its longer -axis is perpendicular to the level of the floor. The upper segment of -the stone corresponds with the cavity in the rock on the right hand; and -the square, formed by the flattened edges of the stone and two lines -joining their extremities, is larger than the doorway by rather more -than an inch each way. It is therefore evident that it was not necessary -to roll this stone, but simply to lower it from left to right, so as to -turn the axes through a right angle and bring the shorter axis -perpendicular to the ground; when the apse fitted into the -above-mentioned cavity, and the stone, resting upon the lowest step, -effectually closed the doorway. The means employed to raise and lower -this stone was no doubt a chain, passing over two pulleys, with -vertical axes, which a person drew towards himself to raise the stone -from its place. The two right-angled elbows in the above-mentioned -channel were to apply the force to the chain more conveniently. The -channel in which the stone lies was covered by a long slab, and we can -still see the points on which this rested. - -This is not the only way in which the aperture was closed, for, after -passing this, we see the jambs which must have supported another stone -door, moving on two pivots, the holes for which still remain above and -below. When it was hung it must have yielded to the slightest push from -without. Through this we enter a square antechamber, in which are three -doors, one in the middle of the western wall, and the other two in the -southern, one near each corner. Entering the western door, we come to a -room with three smaller chambers opening out of the middle of each wall, -each of which contains three sepulchral niches[832], consisting of a -stone bier or slab under an arch; these three chambers are flanked on -each side by casemate vaults, each having a channel cut in the rock in -the middle of the floor; to each of which, with one exception, a small -recess is attached to receive articles which had been valued by the -deceased. Out of the central room a narrow sloping gallery in the north -wall leads into a lower chamber, with a sepulchral niche in the west -wall, and two steps against the north, the lower of which is larger than -the upper. On one of these lay the sarcophagus[833], which M. de Saulcy -has deposited in the Museum of the Louvre at Paris; a similar one, -broken in pieces, was found near. He considers the former to be the -sarcophagus of David; but with this opinion I am unable to agree. Here -there are places for three corpses. Returning into the antechamber we -enter the door on the south-east, and find ourselves in a room with the -openings of three casemate vaults in the south wall, and three in the -east; two of these are provided with channels, and one with the recess -in its wall; the other four are narrower than the rest; which have been -completely finished off by their excavators, as is proved by their -correspondence one with another in length, breadth, and height, by the -regularity of their angles, and by the jambs supporting the doors which -closed them. M. de Saulcy thinks that the latter were never finished, -perhaps because they are not so wide as the others, and have no channel -in the floor; but, in my opinion, this was only made to catch the -moisture that dripped from the corpse during putrefaction, and by -draining it off to allow the body to become dry more rapidly. Therefore -I consider that in the narrower vaults bodies which had been previously -dried up were placed. Let us now return again into the antechamber and -visit the room on the west of that just described. In the south wall of -this are three finished casemate vaults, and the same number in the -west, five of which have the channel, while the sixth belongs to the -narrower class already mentioned. Two of the five have also the attached -recess. In the north wall is a small door leading by a narrow descending -passage into a small chamber containing three sepulchral niches. Thus -there are altogether thirty-three biers, including among these the two -steps on which the sarcophagi were found. Round each of the three rooms -communicating with the vaults runs a small foot-path, raised above the -general level of the floor, so that a kind of basin is formed at the -bottom of the chamber. Into this I suppose the moisture escaping from -the bodies during putrefaction flowed; perhaps there were holes in the -sides to admit water, or allow of the escape of fluids; but this I could -not ascertain, as the floor was covered with rubbish. Each chamber was -closed by a stone door, which worked on pivots fixed in two holes. At -the present time the doors lie on the ground broken to pieces, and -though every one must admire their workmanship, no one has attempted to -preserve them from total ruin by conveying them away to some European -museum. Many authors have endeavoured to explain how they were -made[834]; but I think they were brought from some other place, when -completed, and then set up. I am led to this conclusion by observing -that they are of a different kind of stone to that seen in the walls of -the chambers; that is, of a more compact limestone without veins. All -the workmanship in the excavation is admirable, and the angles are -formed with the greatest accuracy. Chisels, hooks, and the revolving -cutters, appear to have been the instruments used. There have been many -controversies about the origin and use of these tombs: some consider -them to have been the monument of Helena of Adiabene; but in that case -it would be difficult to explain for what purpose the thirty-three -receptacles were made, as Josephus says that she and her son alone were -buried there. M. de Saulcy endeavours to prove them to be the Tombs of -the Kings; but I have already shewn[835] that this is contrary to the -Bible, Josephus, and tradition. From the Books of Maccabees and -Josephus, we are enabled to determine the Tombs of many Asmonaean -princes. With regard to the family of Herod, we know that Herod the -Ascalonite was buried in Herodium; his sons, Alexander, Aristobulus, and -others, in Alexandrium near to Shiloh; Agrippa in the valley of Gihon; -Antipas died in Gaul; consequently none of these can lie here. We know -that when Aristobulus was poisoned by the partizans of Pompeius, his -body was preserved in honey, and sent to Jerusalem by Antonius[836]. He -may therefore be one of those who were buried in these tombs, in which -other members of the royal family, especially women and children, may -have been interred. The monument being of the Doric order does not allow -us to assign it to an earlier period. The Jews visit these tombs with -reverence, and the Arabs exact from them a payment on entrance, to which -they patiently submit. They do not, however, consider these to be the -burial-places of their first Kings, but of the last; so that here -tradition agrees with the architectural evidence furnished by the -monument. - -About a hundred yards from the Tombs of the Kings, to the south-west, in -a field planted with olives, is a sepulchre, excavated vertically in the -rock[837]. It is almost the only example of its kind in the open country -in Palestine, and is the more remarkable because the Tombs of the -Patriarchs in the cave of Machpelah at Hebron, that of Rachel near -Bethlehem Ephrata, and of Samuel at Ramah (_Neby-Samwil_) are of the -same kind. Round the edge of the oblong grave runs a step, into which a -stone is fitted so as to close the hole firmly, and on this was placed a -sarcophagus. This I have ascertained by a careful examination of those -at Ephrata and Ramah. - -Hence we return to the road running to the north, and, after passing the -Tombs of the Kings, find on the left an Arab building called _Sheikh -Jerrah_; a place in much veneration among the Mohammedans, especially -those of the country; since it contains the tomb of a santon, who, as -they believe, has the power of granting them prosperous expeditions, -abundant harvests, and good luck, especially with their fowls and eggs; -of which articles a small tribute is paid to a live dervish, who acts as -go-between for them in their petitions to the dead santon. - -Keeping along the road to the right leading to the open country on the -north-east, we come to a spot on the southern bank of the Kidron Valley, -where there are signs of excavations, if not of tombs. One of these is -remarkable for its large dimensions; it is entirely excavated with the -chisel, and shews some trace of a gallery hewn out of the solid rock in -its upper part. This is _Jadagat el-Ahel_, which I have already -mentioned[838]. All the Jews assert that during the persecutions their -race underwent, in the times of Hadrian and of the Byzantine emperors, -this place was used as a synagogue by those, who, despising the perils -of the journey, came from far that they might behold their ancient -capital, if only from a distance. I have already mentioned the -explanation of the name; but another tradition is current among the more -ignorant and prejudiced Jews, which is given by Saintine[839]: "When -Titus was besieging Jerusalem, and had completely blockaded the town -with his legions, in the month _Bul_ (November) provisions began to fail -the inhabitants. Then universal misery prevailed in the city, and the -famine slew more than the Romans. In this extremity, even the women and -children were killed to nourish the combatants; but these sufferings, -terrible as they were, did not appease the wrath of Heaven, and the city -was taken and sacked with every atrocity of war. At this time there -lived at Jerusalem a very wealthy Jew, who had been educated at Rome, -and for this reason was allowed to retain his riches. But what good were -they now to him? His wife and boys had been sacrificed to the horrible -cravings of hunger. This fearful scene was ever present to his mind, and -banished repose. He could only find one solace: he determined to give a -portion of his property to his wretched fellow-citizens; and further, he -made a vow to distribute corn, meat, and wine, among them at this place, -every year at the feast of Purim; so that they might be able to share in -the general joy, and celebrate the festival in a proper manner. So sped -the years; the evils of the war were beginning to be less felt, when the -new generation, seduced by a false Messiah named Cosiba, again -endeavoured to shake off the Roman yoke. The aged man still remembered -too well the miseries of the former siege; he implored his brethren to -abandon their fatal determination, relating to them what he had seen and -suffered; but his efforts were fruitless. At length it was revealed to -him from heaven that soon the city would again be destroyed by the -armies of Hadrian. For the last time he tried to induce the rebels to -submit, but in vain; then, preferring to die rather than witness the -misfortunes of his country, he prayed to God to remove him from the -earth; the roof of the cavern fell in, and buried him in its ruins under -the heap which still lies before its mouth. Still however, every year, -at the feast of Purim, the dead man takes a piece of money from his -hidden treasures, and places it on the rock in order to continue the -'alms of food' to the poor." Before 1857 there was an isolated mass of -rock in the middle of this monument, to which the Rabbins and a great -number of people came on their feast of Pentecost to pray and read the -Pentateuch, but it has now disappeared, because, in building the -Austrian hospice, this place was used as a stone quarry, and greatly -mutilated. It is to be hoped that what remains will not be destroyed by -a repetition of this vandalism, when another work of charity is executed -for a European nation. - -On ascending the Kidron Valley we find, on its northern bank, a place, -commonly called the Tomb of Simon the Just. A few years ago a -Mohammedan, seeing that it was frequented by the Jews, affixed a door to -it, expecting that he would be able to extract money from those who -wished to visit it. He has not been disappointed in his hopes, and reaps -large gains. Whether the name is rightly given, I do not know; but it is -not contrary to any tradition. The interior is not remarkable; only -there is a small cistern, well constructed, on the side of the casemate -vault. The Jews visit this spot for prayer at all seasons, but -especially when rain is needed for the country, after it has been -parched during nine months by a blazing sun. - -Further up the valley, after crossing the road to Samaria, we find, -still on the northern side, an ancient tomb[840], the exterior of which -is completely mutilated. In the front court is a fragment of the western -end of a wall, hewn out of the solid rock; all the rest of it has been -destroyed. In the piece which remains we find a conduit and small basin; -these clearly prove that water must have been supplied from some higher -ground on the north; but I have not been able to discover whence it -came. Against the north wall is a heap of soil, nearly covering up an -aperture; through the part still open, though overgrown with creepers, -it is possible to crawl into the interior[841]. Here we find a -rectangular vestibule which evidently has been converted into a cistern, -as its walls have been covered with strong cement, and a hole made in -the roof, through which soil and broken stones are brought down from the -hill-side above, in the rainy season. A small door in the middle of the -north wall leads into an antechamber in good preservation, in the east -wall of which is the passage into a chamber with eight biers, one of -them being a sepulchral niche, and the rest casemate vaults, without -channels, but sloping slightly downwards towards the floor of the -chamber, round which runs a kind of footpath, above the general level of -the floor, as in the Tombs of the Kings. At the end of one of these -vaults is the small recess. As the dimensions and finish of these -correspond with those of the small vaults in the above-named tombs, they -would be considered unfinished by M. de Saulcy. Returning into the -antechamber, we find in its western wall a small door leading into a -single casemate vault, which is much larger than any other of its kind -in the neighbourhood of Jerusalem. This monument does not bear any -special name, but must have belonged to a wealthy family, because, -although it is not so large as the other great tombs, its execution is -not inferior to theirs. - -Descending from this point to the bed of the Kidron Valley, we find a -nearly square pool. Though this is now almost filled with earth, yet in -the rainy season the waters flow into it from the slopes above, and form -a sort of little lake, which is then the source, so to say, of the -Kidron. I have investigated carefully the ground above, endeavouring to -discover some proof of the existence of a spring, but in vain. By -excavating I found that the depth of the Pool was fifteen feet. - -From this position we ascend in a north-westerly direction, and then -turn southward towards an ash-coloured mound. All along our course we -observe numbers of ruined and broken tombs, and can readily comprehend -the account given by Josephus[842] of the levelling executed by Titus' -army, between Scopus and the city. The small mound mentioned above has -been examined by Liebig, who considers it to be composed of the ashes of -bones and animal remains. This might be true of the specimen submitted -to him, but I am of opinion that it chiefly consists of ashes from the -soap-works of Jerusalem, mingled with soil and broken stones, with bones -of dogs and other carrion, that have been cast out there. I have arrived -at this conclusion, after making large excavations in the heap, and -availing myself of its materials to mix with lime in making a strong -cement, which I used in building and repairing terrace-roofs, and in -conduits and cisterns. The inhabitants of Jerusalem, and the proprietors -of the soap-works themselves, have assured me that the greater part of -this deposit was formed during the time of Ibrahim Pasha, by whose -orders the refuse of their manufactories was conveyed outside the city. - -By following the road, which leads in a north-westerly direction to -Gibeon, we find on the left-hand side, at a distance of about two -hundred yards from the above mound, a tomb which differs in form from -all those already described. It has an antechamber, and from it three -doors lead into three small chambers, in which there are no biers. At -the first glance I was inclined to consider it as an incomplete -work, but from the perfect execution of its interior and its -frontispiece[843], I came to a different conclusion after I had had many -opportunities of examining both finished and unfinished sepulchres. - -Keeping along the road, we see before reaching the Tombs of the Judges, -numbers of tombs dispersed about the ground on our right hand, some -partly destroyed, some converted into cisterns, and others still -uninjured. All this land was a large field of the dead, where the -ancient Jews excavated sepulchres suitable to their wealth and station. -One among them is remarkable as giving us a correct idea of that in -which our Lord was laid; for it consists of an antechamber, and a burial -chamber, in which is a single niche to receive a corpse, on the right -hand of the entrance[844]. A few yards further on, we come, after -turning to the right, to the Tombs of the Judges[845], called by the -Arabs _Kubur el-Godka_. There does not appear to be any reason for the -name. Eight of the fifteen Judges who ruled the people between the death -of Joshua and the accession of Saul were certainly buried elsewhere: and -it is far more likely that the rest would sleep with their fathers among -their own tribes, after the usual custom of the Israelites. It seems to -me much more probable that certain members of the Sanhedrim were buried -here, according to the traditional belief of the Jews now in Jerusalem, -who visit this spot from no other motive than curiosity. The exterior of -the vestibule is decorated with a frontispiece resembling that in the -Tomb of Jehoshaphat, consisting of a cornice and pediment, the tympanum -of which is richly carved with palm-leaves and foliage, with three -acroteria, perhaps intended for funeral emblems (torches), one on the -summit (effaced), and the other two at each end. Under the cornice is a -row of small modillons. Beneath the cornice, and on each side of the -opening, runs an ornamental group of mouldings. A low narrow door -similarly decorated is placed in the middle of the vestibule, and gives -admission to the sepulchral chambers, six in number, and containing -altogether sixty-three biers. Sixty of these are narrow casemate vaults, -of the class which M. de Saulcy considers as incomplete receptacles, and -three are sepulchral niches. The execution displayed in these tombs is -not inferior to that at the Tombs of the Kings, nor do they yield to -them in elegance or arrangement, especially in the interior. At the -south-west corner of the first chamber is a narrow staircase, which I -found blocked up with enormous stones, fitted together in order to close -the entrance. After removing them with no small trouble I understood the -reason why they were so placed. In the entrance below lay a corpse, not -yet reduced to a skeleton; the head and right hand of which had been -severed from the body; signs of a cruel vengeance, of which I discovered -other instances in my researches in the country. This unfinished -sepulchral chamber fully supplies us with the means of studying the -construction of these receptacles of the dead. In it are the beginnings -of nine casemate vaults, and the instruments used have evidently been -the chisel and the revolving cutter which I have already described[846]. -The limestone from which the whole of the monument is hewn resembles in -quality that at the Tombs of the Kings; but it is of a yellowish colour -veined with red, and takes a polish like marble. It is easily quarried -at first, but becomes hard when exposed to the atmosphere. - -Returning from the Tombs of the Judges, by the field-path southward, we -reach the road to the village of Lifta, which we follow westward, in -order to visit the little Mohammedan mosque, wherein repose the ashes of -a santon called Sheikh Aymar, who fell in battle against the Christians. -The place is not worth a visit for the sake of its architecture, but -there is a curious legend connected with it. Over the entrance-gate is a -large architrave of finely polished red granite. The story is, that an -Arab devoted to the saint found this block in some distant country, and -was enabled to bear it on his back to ornament the tomb of his patron, -although from its natural weight eight men at least would have been -required to move it. They say also that Ibrahim Pasha, struck with the -beauty of the stone, tried to take it away, but the invisible hand of -the saint kept it fixed in the wall; so that the Pasha himself became -his devotee. Returning towards the city, we can visit the buildings -which Russia has erected at great cost in a short time, for the use of -the mission of its Church at Jerusalem, and to receive pilgrims who -visit the Holy Places. I have already spoken of them[847], and the -description of the Plan[848] will explain their arrangements. Though -Russia began her work the last, she will in a short time surpass all the -other religious communities. It was also upon this spot, and as far as -up to the convent of S. Saviour, that Sennacherib encamped his troops. -Titus at a later period fixed his head-quarters here, when he was -preparing to attack the third line of walls; here also he reviewed his -army, in the hope that the sight of his power and resources might -terrify the Jews into submission. As the troops would extend from the -north-west angle of the present wall towards the east, the citizens -would be able to see them very well[849]. The Crusaders also occupied -the ground belonging to Russia, and all their positions may be seen at a -glance from here. Godfrey of Bouillon attacked the north-east corner of -the wall; Robert Duke of Normandy the part by the Grotto of Jeremiah; -Robert Count of Flanders, that opposite to the rock where I place the -tomb of Helena of Adiabene; Tancred from this position stormed the -castle of Goliath (_Kasr Jalud_), the tower Psephinus in my opinion; -Raymond Count of Toulouse pitched his camp on the west, where the small -Greek convent of S. George now stands, and directed part of his troops, -commanded by the Count of S. Gilles, against Sion: these, after many -valiant deeds, gained the south wall, above the present Christian -cemetery. - -We now descend into the Valley of Gihon, to visit the Pool of Mamillah -and the surrounding Mohammedan cemetery; but before reaching it we -observe a large and level boulevard leading to the city. I proposed to -Surraya Pasha to make this in order to give a promenade to the -inhabitants; and though the plan was not carried out as I desired, still -I think that I have done a service to the citizens in giving them one -good road for walking, instead of stony paths or rugged tracks on the -hill-sides. Entering the cemetery, from the western end of this -promenade, we come to the Pool of Mamillah, which I identify with the -'Upper Pool[850].' From this started the deep canal by which Hezekiah -brought the waters of Gihon within the western part of the city, when he -closed up the fountains on the approach of Sennacherib's army. The -subterranean conduit still exists, though it is now exposed and -devastated in places, and is used to convey the rain-water from the -Upper Pool to that of Amygdalon within the city; for which reason the -latter is still called the Pool of Hezekiah. Josephus[851] gives to the -Upper Pool the name of 'The Serpent's Pool,' and the Arabs call it -_Birket Mamillah_. The derivation of the name I have already -explained[852]. S. Jerome[853] calls it the 'Fuller's Pool;' perhaps -founding the name on the passages in the Bible[854], which shew that the -Fuller's field was in its neighbourhood. In the middle ages it was -called 'The Patriarch's Pool.' The passage in which it is mentioned is -as follows[855]: "Outside the David Gate was a pool towards the setting -sun, called the Patriarch's Pool, where the waters of the surrounding -country were collected for watering the horses. Near this pool was a -charnel-house, called the Lion's Charnel-house. Now I will tell you why -it is called the Lion's Charnel-house. One day, as they say, there was a -battle between the Christians and the Saracens, betwixt this -charnel-house and Jerusalem, in which many Christians were slain, and -the Saracens were intending next day to defile the bodies. So it -happened that a lion came by night, and carried them all into this -ditch, as they said. Above this charnel-house was a church, where people -sang services every day." Perhaps this church was dedicated to S. -Babylas, of which now only a mass of ruins remains, also covering -sepulchral caves. Here I place the monument of Herod, mentioned in the -account of Titus' wall of circumvallation[856]. The Mohammedan cemetery -surrounding the pool dates from the age of Saladin; for here are found -some ancient sarcophagi, and epitaphs bearing the names of certain of -his generals. All this spot is highly esteemed by the Mohammedans, and -their chief men are usually buried here. - -We will now take the road to the west, leading to S. John in the -Mountains (_Ain Karim_), and visit the Greek convent of S. Cross, called -by the Arabs _Deir el-Mar-sullabi_, which we reach in about twenty -minutes. Its name is derived from the tradition that the tree grew here -from which the Cross of Christ was made. Quaresmius[857] informs us that -the Empress Helena built a church here to mark the spot. Dositheus, -Greek Patriarch of Jerusalem towards the close of the seventeenth -century, who wrote the history of his predecessors in that office, is of -opinion that the monastery of S. Cross was built by Justinian I. at the -prayer of S. Saba, who had gone to Constantinople to refute some -calumnies which had been promulgated by the Samaritan, Arsenius, in -order to bring the people of Palestine into bad repute with the Emperor. -He supposes also that the Georgians, who occupied it for a long time, -were the builders. The Persian invaders under Chosroes II. utterly -destroyed the monastery, but spared a part of the church; murdering, -nevertheless, all the monks who had fled there for refuge, so that the -tesselated pavement, of great antiquity, still preserves the stains of -their blood. The Reverend Dionysius Cleopas, a most courteous and -learned man, the director of the school of S. Cross, pointed out these -stains to me, informing me of the tradition concerning them. Though I am -far from yielding a blind assent to it, I cannot but remember how long -the stain of blood remains upon marble or stone, if it has lain and -dried up there. In this case the blood of more than a hundred victims -must have been shed and left there. At the same time it must be -remarked that the stains, which extend below the surface of the tesserae -in the pavement, are not red but of a blackish colour. - -When the Greeks purchased the convent from the Georgians it was wholly -in ruins; now, however, it is one of the finest establishments in -Palestine. Though rather an irregular building, it stands in a great -measure on the ancient site. In it are the schools where poor youths of -the Greek faith are maintained without charge, together with a library, -and a fine apartment for the use of the Patriarch when he visits the -place. The church[858] deserves a visit. Four large piers, from which -spring pointed arches, divide it into a nave with two side aisles. It is -also adorned with a pointed dome. The walls are decorated with ancient -frescoes, and on these are Georgian inscriptions shewing that the church -and convent were restored two hundred years ago. In the apses are -curious pictures representing the whole history of the sacred tree; the -hole, in which it is said to have grown, is exhibited behind the great -altar. Michael Glycas reports in his annals[859] the tradition from -which the name of the church is derived. Though it is a thorough Arab -story, I relate it, as it explains the pictures. "When Abraham became -aware of the sin which Lot had committed when overcome by wine, he -ordered him to go to the banks of the river Nile in Egypt, and bring -thence three boughs of different trees, in the expectation that he would -be devoured on the journey by the wild beasts, and would thus expiate -his crime. Lot, guided by heaven, accomplished the dangerous task, and -returned unhurt with the three boughs, one of cypress, another of pine, -and the third of cedar. Abraham not being contented with this, ascended -this hill and planted the three boughs in the form of a triangle, -ordering Lot to fetch water for them every day from the Jordan, a -distance of twenty-four miles." (This is the distance of the river from -the convent.) "Lot obeyed this command also, and after three months the -boughs united and budded, but their roots were always separated one from -the other. Therefore Abraham prophesied that by means of their wood -sinful men were one day to be redeemed. In the days of Solomon the tree -had grown to a great size, and was cut down by that King to be used in -building the Temple. But by the decree of Heaven its trunk remained -forgotten till the Saviour's Passion, when the Jews used it to make the -Cross. The hill, on which Abraham is said to have planted the three -boughs, is to the south-west of the convent, and is still called by the -Arabs 'The place of the boughs.'" Heraclius is said to have stayed in -this convent on his return from his expedition against the Persians to -recover the Holy Cross. - -On our return to Jerusalem from the monastery by the road to the east of -that by which we came, we see the quarries from which perhaps were -extracted the columns of red breccia which adorn the mosque _el-Aksa_, -and many churches in Palestine. On reaching the summit of the hill we -regain our former road, and enter Jerusalem by the Jaffa Gate. During -our return we notice with admiration the efforts made by the -Archimandrite Nicoforus for the improvement of the country, and the -energy and intelligence displayed in all his agricultural undertakings, -especially in planting trees. It is to be hoped that his attempts will -be crowned with success, and that the Arabs will avail themselves of the -opportunity, and join in a work so calculated to advance the prosperity -of the country. - - -FOOTNOTES: - -[794] Plate VII. - -[795] Page 6. - -[796] Page 35. - -[797] Page 37. - -[798] Pages 168, 169. - -[799] Acts vii. 58. - -[800] Elucidatio Terrae Sanctae, Lib. IV. pereg. 8, c. 2, Tom. II. p. 295, -col. 2. See also, c. 3, p. 297, col. 1, ed. 1639. - -[801] Nicephorus, Hist. Eccl. Lib. XIV. c. 50. - -[802] Evagrius, Hist. Eccl. Lib. I. c. 22. - -[803] Ibid. - -[804] Hist. Eccl. Lib. XIV. c. 50. - -[805] Vita Sabae, c. lxxxii. - -[806] Historia Hierosol. Lib. IX. (Gesta Dei, &c. Tom. I. p. 74, ed. -1611). - -[807] Early Travels in Palestine. 'Bohn's Ant. Lib.' p. 43. - -[808] Hist. Hierosol. Lib. V. c. 46 (G. D. &c. Tom. I. p. 274); cf. Lib. -VI. c. 9, and William of Tyre, Lib. VIII. c. 12. - -[809] De Vogue, Les Eglises, &c. p. 333. - -[810] Cartulary of the Holy Sepulchre, p. 306. - -[811] La Citez de Jherusalem, quoted by De Vogue, p. 333. - -[812] Leo Allatius, Sym. p. 146. - -[813] La Citez de Jherusalem, quoted by De Vogue, p. 441; Cartulary, p. -306. - -[814] Plates VIII., IX. - -[815] Page 38. - -[816] Jewish War, V. 5, Sec. 6. - -[817] Page 38. - -[818] Jewish War, V. 4, Sec. 2. - -[819] Hist. Eccl. Lib. VIII. c. 30. - -[820] Jer. xxxviii. 6. - -[821] Jer. xxxviii. 6, 28. - -[822] Jewish War, V. 4, Sec. 2. - -[823] Jerusalem, p. 36. - -[824] Jewish War, V. 7, Sec. 3. - -[825] Ant. XIII. 16, Sec. 1. - -[826] Page 14. - -[827] This grotto is still called _el-Oezerie_, and is known to the -Arabs as the Tomb of Lazarus. - -[828] Plates LV., LVI. - -[829] Narrative of a Journey round the Dead Sea, &c. (edited by Count E. -de Warren, Vol. II. pp. 137, 138). - -[830] Plate LX. - -[831] My remarks may appear to resemble closely those made by M. Gerardy -Saintine, Trois Ans en Judee, p. 224. As he has used information given -to him by me, without any acknowledgment, I feel entitled to resume my -own. - -[832] The term 'sepulchral niche' is used to denote an arched recess -excavated in the wall of a tomb; the body was laid on the slab beneath -the arch, so that it resembled one of the monuments with recumbent -figures, not very uncommon in the walls of churches. The term 'casemate -vault' is used (in default of a better) to denote a narrow, deep, and -rather low excavation, into which the body was thrust head foremost. -Brick vaults are sometimes built on this pattern in the present day. - -[833] Plate LVIII. - -[834] Mariti, p. 216 seq. - -[835] Page 210. - -[836] Jewish War, I. 9, Sec. 1. - -[837] See Plate LVIII. for Plan and Section. - -[838] Page 38; Plate LVII. - -[839] Trois Ans en Judee, p. 214. - -[840] Plate LIX. - -[841] I advise the visitor to take with him an Arab to beat the ground, -in order to make the reptiles conceal themselves, and frighten away the -jackals which frequent it, before he enters the place. - -[842] Jewish War, V. 3, Sec. 2. - -[843] See Plan, Plate LIX. Frontispiece, Plate LVIII. - -[844] Plate LIX. - -[845] Plates LVIII., LIX. - -[846] Page 226. - -[847] Page 13. - -[848] Plate II. - -[849] Jewish War, V. 7, Sec. 3; V. 9, Sec. 1. - -[850] 2 Kings xviii. 17; 2 Chron. xxxii. 3, 4, 30; Isaiah vii. 3. - -[851] Jewish War, V. 3, Sec. 2. - -[852] Page 24. - -[853] De Locis Hebr. litt. T. (Tapheth). - -[854] 2 Kings xviii. 17; Isaiah vii. 3. - -[855] La Citez de Jherusalem, De Vogue, Les Eglises, &c. p. 442. - -[856] Page 40. - -[857] E. T. S. Lib. VI. pereg. 4, c. 7, Tom. II. p. 712, col. 2, ed. 1639. - -[858] Plate LXIII. - -[859] Pars II. p. 254, ed. Bonn, e cod. Claromont. - - - - -CHAPTER VIII. - - ON THE WATERS, FIT OR UNFIT FOR DRINKING, IN JERUSALEM AND ITS - NEIGHBOURHOOD. - - -In the seven preceding chapters I have several times mentioned the -waters, drinkable and undrinkable, and the sewers, when we have come -across them in the course of our investigations; but I have not always -entered into details, reserving them for this chapter. Therefore I now -proceed to treat the subject at length, with the view of shewing, as -clearly as is possible, the means which the former inhabitants of -Jerusalem possessed of obtaining an abundant supply of water, and -removing the sewage of the city; and I shall also notice the -carelessness exhibited by the Arabs with regard to every part of the -works of their predecessors in the country, and how they rather employ -themselves in accelerating than in arresting their destruction. - -I am persuaded that there are some springs in Jerusalem and in its -neighbourhood; but these have never been sufficient to supply the wants -of the population without assistance; consequently the earlier Jewish -Kings executed important hydraulic works to introduce an abundant supply -into the city, and to preserve it there in reservoirs, to be used both -for the wants of life and for purposes of purification; and, above all, -for the requirements of the Temple-services, which were very -considerable. I have no doubt that the most extensive works were -commenced in David's reign, and carried still further in that of his son -Solomon. These are yet in existence, and might even now be in operation, -had they not fallen into the hands of an ignorant and almost barbarous -race, who are perpetually endeavouring to destroy them, without ever -thinking that they are thus aggravating the deficiency of water, and -placing the town in danger of being entirely deprived of it, if at any -time the rainfall is insufficient. The local government has several -times considered the mischief that may thus be caused, and has taken -steps accordingly to prevent it; but, weak as it is, has never been able -to make its orders respected. From this reproach, however, I except the -provident rule of Surraya Pasha, which is now over. - -According to my opinion, it was Solomon that ordered and executed the -important work of bringing the water from Etham into Jerusalem by means -of a conduit; which is indeed generally attributed to him, though it is -called by a few that of Pontius Pilate. The primary design of this -undertaking was unquestionably that the Temple and its precincts might -not suffer from a lack of water. It is very remarkable that neither the -Bible nor Josephus make express mention of this; but it is probable -that all the pools, now existing at Etham, are referred to in -Ecclesiastes[860]; and Josephus[861] informs us that the summer-palace -of Solomon was at the town of Etham, in the neighbourhood of Bethlehem, -fifty stadia from Jerusalem. Perhaps he did not describe the -water-works, because he considered them well-known. However, it is -certain that history does not afford us any positive _data_ for -ascribing these constructions to Solomon; but the magnitude of the work, -and tradition, induce me to attribute them to him. As it was on these -pools of Etham that the city mainly depended for its supply, I will -describe them first of all. - -Quitting the Jaffa Gate we take the direct road to Etham, passing the -Tomb of Rachel, and leaving Bethlehem on the left; it is a ride of two -hours and a half. Here is an old castle[862], called by the Arabs _Kalat -el-Burak_ (Castle of the Lightning), of which the outer walls, with -battlements, remain perfect; but the interior is all in ruins, and only -serves to harbour swarms of bees. History does not tell us when or by -whom it was built, but from its architecture and masonry it must -evidently be assigned to the twelfth or thirteenth century; the design -being, no doubt, to accommodate a small garrison in order to secure the -waters. It is not improbable that the Crusaders erected it to prevent -the hostile tribes from cutting off the water-supply from Jerusalem, -which would have been liable to this deprivation without such a -precaution. To the south are the three reservoirs, situated in the -middle of the Etham Valley, which slopes steeply down from west to east. -These are filled by the rain-water drained from the slopes of the -mountains on each side, and by an abundant supply from a spring on the -west of the castle, in a straight line along the direction of its north -side, at a distance of about 450 yards. I mention this, because its -rudely circular opening, like the mouth of a cistern, is hidden in a -field under a mass of stones thickly covered with creeping plants, and -so is sometimes not easily found without a guide. Possibly this spring -is mentioned in the Song of Solomon[863], in the words, "A garden -enclosed is my sister, my spouse, a spring shut up, a fountain sealed;" -hence it is now called 'fons signatus' by the Christians, and _Ras -el-Ain_ (Head of the Fountain), and also _Ain Saleh_ by the Arabs. Let -us examine its interior by descending an inconvenient shaft, like those -in cisterns; looking well where we set our feet, lest we come to the -bottom in a single step, a depth of about 12 feet only, but a rough -fall. On arriving below, we crawl a short distance, and then find -ourselves in a rectangular chamber 18 feet long from north to south, 10 -wide, and 20 high. The lower parts of the walls are formed of the great -blocks characteristic of the era of Solomon; the upper contain some with -rustic work in low relief, which diminishes towards the top of the -vault, where the stones are dressed smooth and flat. Hence I consider -that the chamber has been restored at different periods; an opinion -confirmed by the barrel-vault formed of long oblong stones, skilfully -laid with mortar. In the middle of the west wall is an opening leading -into a narrow cave, at the western extremity of which a limpid, cool, -and abundant spring issues from a natural channel in the rock, which -cannot be followed up by reason of its narrowness and the breaks in its -level. Where the water runs along the floor, we observe the remains of -an ancient canal formed of hard cement, which still exhibits some -fragments of earthenware pipes about ten inches in diameter. In the -corners of this cave are two other crevices in the rock, from which -issue small springs that unite with the former in the middle of the -first chamber. In this there is a basin, originally intended to act as a -filter, which is now out of repair, and receives the water on its way to -the conduit running to the east. Owing to the injuries done by the hand -of man, and the accumulation of extraneous substances, a large part of -the stream escapes into the ground, and is lost. I have repeatedly -visited this place at the various seasons of the year, and have found -the fountain flowing most copiously in winter, but there is no -deficiency in summer; so that if the reservoirs and conduits were -properly kept up, Jerusalem would never be in want of spring-water, and -the health and comfort of its inhabitants would be improved by the -decrease of fevers, and the increase of cleanliness. The eastern conduit -is mainly excavated in the solid rock, especially near its mouth; but -the upper part, which is vaulted for the first 20 feet, is then covered -with large slabs, as far as the south-west corner of the castle. At -first it is 3 feet wide and 4 high, but it gradually becomes narrower -and lower as it approaches this corner, and can therefore only be -traversed for a distance of 86 feet, when the walls, hewn out of the -rock, are replaced by others of masonry, although rock continues to form -the bottom of the conduit. This aqueduct, running in a curve from the -spring to the castle, empties part of its contents into a round basin, -near the north-west corner of the first pool, whence it flows into the -pool; so that there is usually water in this even in the height of -summer, when the other two are generally dry. Before proceeding to -describe the course of the water, both from the round basin and in -other directions, I call attention to the three large reservoirs, which -are mainly excavated in the rock, the eastern side alone of each being -formed of solid masonry, built in steps externally to resist the -pressure of the water. In these walls, and especially in their lower -parts, very ancient Jewish work is seen, which may be assigned to the -reign of Solomon; not the slightest trace of mortar is visible, and -where the wall has been wantonly injured, pieces of iron appear with the -holes in the stones for clamps. The walls are now faced with Arab cement -(the last was put on in 1857 and 1860); but in places fragments of an -ancient compost still remain, so compact and hard that it has withstood -the injuries of twenty-nine centuries. The Plan shews the arrangement -and dimensions of these reservoirs, and the Section their inclination -and respective depths, so that I need not enter into particulars on -these points, but only remark that the eastern end of each is connected -with a subterranean chamber, wherein we can observe the various channels -which have been used, according to circumstances, to augment the outflow -of the stream from the upper to the lower reservoir. In these the -original vaulting still remains, circular in form and constructed of -blocks, built together without mortar; that belonging to the last pool -on the east is the largest, from which the conduit starts which goes to -the _castellum_[864], and thence to Jerusalem. We will now return to the -first-mentioned conduit. I have already said that the aqueduct from the -'Sealed Fountain' discharges a portion of its waters into the round -basin; another portion flows along a covered canal, visible on the -surface, which runs along by the side of the three pools, supplying a -fountain near the north-east corner of the first of them, and then -emptying itself into the _castellum_ just mentioned. In case of too -great a quantity of water flowing into the round basin, and being forced -back by the first pool becoming full, the overplus is not lost, but -escapes through a third aperture into a subterranean chamber, on the -west of the basin, and almost united to it, where it joins the stream -coming from a very deep spring (not before mentioned), whence it is -conducted by a subterranean canal (whether this is artificial or natural -I have not been able to decide) to the _castellum_ on the east of the -lowest pool. This point I have proved by stopping up the supply of water -from the other quarters; an experiment which was witnessed by M. de -Barrere and M. E. Meshullam. Another spring also supplies the latter -_castellum_, the stream from which, rising at a distance of about 750 -feet, comes down the valley, and runs parallel to the east end of the -lowest pool; this is called by the Arabs _Ain Atan_, and is the best -water in Palestine, but is not very abundant, from the way in which the -neighbourhood of the source has been cleared of trees. The above-named -fountains are not all of those which formerly supported the gardens of -Solomon and Jerusalem; two conduits from the south increased the -supply; one of which came from the neighbourhood of Hebron (to the south -of the village of _Halhul_), and flowed into the lowest pool: another, -from the mountains near Etham, emptied itself into the first pool. The -whole course of these conduits can be traced; but it is sad to see them -becoming more and more ruinous every year, when, with little trouble and -expense, they could be sufficiently repaired to be of immense benefit to -the places through which they run. In case the three pools became full, -and the great influx into the lower _castellum_ produced a flood, the -water escaped by a canal, following the course of the valley, and flowed -into two pools, at some distance apart, smaller than those above: there, -no doubt, it was kept to irrigate the gardens below, which may be -identified with the 'garden inclosed[865]' of Solomon. The important -remains of buildings and pools which M. Meshullam has discovered and -laid open, while bringing (most successfully) the ground under -cultivation, are proofs of this point. The shape of the lower pools and -the materials employed in them shew that they are of the same age as the -upper. It is impossible to suppose that these can be the work of any of -the conquerors of Palestine, for none of them would have undertaken a -work of such magnitude, especially as their mission has always been -rather to destroy than to build; neither can we attribute them to Herod, -on account of the silence of Josephus, who mentions all his chief works; -so that we naturally assign them to the epoch of Solomon. The ability of -the engineer who constructed these works is shewn even more in the -aqueduct than in the pools, as it falls and rises, winding through -valleys and hills on its way from the _castellum_, until, after a course -of about 40,000 feet, it empties itself into the great reservoir in the -Valley of Gihon, not far from, and on the north of, the _Birket -es-Sultan_ (the ancient Lower Pool), where its waters were allowed to -settle. Here the aqueduct was formerly divided into two branches, -whereof the one flowed into the pool below, and the other, after -crossing the valley, still rises up the side of Sion, and having skirted -the eastern slopes above the Tyropoeon valley, crosses it and enters -Moriah, as I have already described[866]. The whole course of this -aqueduct still remains, and we can observe that a large portion of it is -hewn in the rock, and covered up with large slabs, while in other parts -it is formed of earthenware pipes eight inches in diameter, which are -skilfully laid with strong cement between stones cut in a proper shape, -and protected above with solid masonry. The various Arab restorations, -at different periods, have considerably modified the form of the -aqueduct, but nevertheless enough remains to enable us to study its -construction. Josephus[867] mentions that Pilate spent the sacred -treasure upon an aqueduct, and some have understood from this that he -constructed the one of which we speak. I cannot however suppose that the -Governor of a province would have been able to carry out a work of such -magnitude; and had it been done, the memory of it would have been -preserved by tradition. Josephus, indeed, speaks of the length of the -work as 400 stadia, but this, I think, must be a mistake in the -manuscripts; 40 would be nearer to the proper amount. The Talmud[868] -states that the aqueduct bringing the water into Moriah emptied itself -into the 'sea of bronze,' and that the spring from which it was supplied -was 23 cubits higher than the pavement of the Temple. This is the actual -height of the 'fountain inclosed;' and this aqueduct does communicate, -as we have shewn, with the supposed site of the 'sea.' The aqueduct has -been restored at various times, since history informs us that Cathuba, -Sultan of Egypt, expended large sums in bringing the waters from the -vicinity of Hebron to the three pools at Etham; and in the thirteenth -century, Sultan Mohammed Ibn-Kelaoun repaired the ancient works of -Solomon to convey the water into Moriah, which had been diverted when -Saladin broke down the aqueduct, in order to cut off the supply from the -Crusaders[869]. The Mohammedan chronicles relate that Solyman the -Magnificent went to great expense in restoring it. At a later period, -under the government of Kiamil Pasha and Surraya Pasha, in 1856 and in -1860, the waters of Etham were brought into Jerusalem, on which occasion -I co-operated with the Turkish engineer, Assad Effendi; but these last -repairs have not been permanent, because the _fellahin_ divert the water -for their private purposes, and those whose duty it is to guard the -aqueduct are bribed to blindness by a present of a lamb or some money. -Until the Governor adopts rigorous measures, the water will be used by -the herdsmen, and will not reach the city. - -I will now briefly indicate the advantages that the waters of Etham must -have produced when they supplied Jerusalem. (1) They filled _Birket -es-Sultan_, or the lower pool, at the southern end of the Valley of -Gihon, then irrigated the gardens and fields in the Valley of Hinnom, -and afterwards flowed into the Kidron, augmenting its volume and aiding -in sweeping away the sewage from the Temple. I have found at certain -places in the Valley of Hinnom remains of ancient walls, which I -consider to have belonged to pools formed there to keep the water until -it was wanted for the neighbouring fields. (2) When the water arrived at -the western extremity of the bridge across the Tyropoeon, a branch -conduit, as I believe, carried a portion of it northward to supply the -different fountains, which still exist in the valley, and also to aid in -filling the Pool of Bethesda; which however was also supplied by the -conduit from the northern valley, and by others from the pool outside S. -Mary's Gate, which was filled from the ditch on the north-east outside -the city. Hence it appears that the lower city was well provided with -water. The works which I have hitherto described could still be restored -with the greatest ease, if the Government chose to expend L7200 in -repairing them in different places, and to organize an effective police -to guard the aqueduct from injury by any chance comer; a thing at -present impossible, owing to the venality of the officials of the -Government, and the barbarism of the Arabs. The former, however, is the -more insurmountable evil. In 1860 I proposed a plan to Surraya Pasha for -securing the water-supply from Etham, and shewed how the expenditure -might be repaid by a rate on Jerusalem and Bethlehem (which is on the -course of the conduit, and receives benefit from it); this rate would be -a positive gain to the inhabitants of the former place, as it would save -them from the capricious and exaggerated demands of those who bring -water into the city, when the cisterns have failed in a season of -drought. He at once perceived the advantages of my plan, but was unable -to carry it into effect, as he could not secure the necessary -co-operation. A short time since a European engineer proposed to bring -the water from Etham to Jerusalem by cast-iron pipes, which were to -start from the Tomb of Rachel, on the Bethlehem road, about four miles -from Jerusalem, and bring it up to the summit of the tower, which I call -Phasaelus, in the Castle of David, from which the central valley was to -be supplied. I am convinced that this plan is impracticable in -Palestine, not only from the great expense, but also because the -Government could never consent to turn into water-works a place which -would be their chief stronghold in case of an insurrection of the -Bedouins or _fellahin_; besides, the pipes themselves would be eagerly -sought after as booty. If it has not been, and is not possible to -restore that which now exists, how can anything new be done? -Circumstances will alter, and then we may hope that Palestine will -advance as Europe is doing; but the good time has not yet come, and -still seems to be far distant. - -Etham was not the only place that supplied Jerusalem with water; for -some came from the west, from the Upper Pool of Gihon (the present -_Birket Mamillah_[870]). From the words of the Bible[871] we should -expect that a fountain was in its neighbourhood; but as the ground near -is now converted into a Mohammedan cemetery, it is impossible to make -any excavations, and I must therefore content myself with explaining -what can be seen above ground. The Pool _Mamillah_ has been excavated in -the rock; by whom history does not tell us, but it is certainly older -than the time of Hezekiah, for Isaiah met Ahaz 'at the end of the -conduit of the upper pool[872],' on the occasion of the prophecy, -'Behold, a virgin shall conceive and bear a son.' This pool occupies a -favourable position for collecting the water that drains from the slopes -of the neighbouring hills in a rainy season. It formerly supplied not -only the Pool Amygdalon in the city (as it still does), but also the -lower pool in the valley or _Birket es-Sultan_. Finding the Pool -_Mamillah_ dry in the summer-season, I made a careful examination of it, -especially on the western side, to see if I could find any mouths of -conduits, but could not discover the slightest trace; so that if there -ever were any, they have entirely disappeared under the various -restorations that the place has undergone. At the present time its -waters are unfit to drink owing to the surrounding cemeteries; but this -would not render them less useful to the city, if the pool were put in -order so as to prevent the waters from being absorbed by the rubbish -which thickly covers the bottom, and from escaping through the crevices -in the sides, now unstopped with cement, and if the conduit were -properly repaired and protected. Were all these works in good condition, -the pool would be filled at the time of the rains, and would supply the -Pool Amygdalon[873]; and in that case the two would annually furnish the -water required by the bath in the Christian bazaar, and its proprietors -be able to make money by selling what they did not require to the -builders. It is surprising that the Arabs do not see the advantages that -they would gain, especially as the cost of the repairs would not be more -than L600. - -In my opinion these two pools and their conduit answer to the -descriptions given us in various passages of the Bible. We read[874] -that when the officers of the king of Assyria arrived with a great host -from Lachish, "they came and stood by the conduit of the upper pool, -which is in the highway of the fuller's field." Their army must have -encamped on the west, and extended as far as the present site of the -Latin Convent of S. Saviour, as the position was commanding and well -suited for marshalling troops before an attack, and the walls were -unprotected by any natural defences. Again, we find[875] that during the -conference between the general of Sennacherib and the chief men in -Jerusalem, they were within hearing of the men on the wall. So when -Sennacherib menaced Jerusalem, Hezekiah[876] "stopped the waters of the -fountains which were without the city; repaired Millo in the city of -David (the present Amygdalon), and stopped the upper watercourse of -Gihon, and brought it straight down to the west side of the city of -David." This I understand to mean that Hezekiah wished to deprive the -enemy of water, and so enclosed Amygdalon with a wall on the west and -north, thus bringing it inside the city, and at the same time -constructed the existing conduit to divert the waters from the upper -pool and leave it dry. These works must have been executed in haste, and -I cannot conceive it possible that they could have been carried into -effect in any other part of the environs of Jerusalem, as it would have -been a colossal labour to bring a conduit to the western side of the -City of David in any other direction, for the hills must have been -pierced. It would also have been unnecessary, as the only purpose was -to conduct the water from the upper pool to that within the city. -Josephus[877] in speaking of the gate by which the water came into the -tower Hippicus, indicates the existence of another conduit. This I -suppose to have been a branch of that of Hezekiah. When the foundations -of the English church were dug, the remains of a conduit were -discovered, which seems to shew that this was the site of one of Herod's -palaces, probably that called the Caesareum. It has been thought that -this conduit went as far as Moriah, but I believe that I have found its -mouth in the street of David, 'in the going down to Silla[878],' close -to the Greek convent of S. John on the south, and that it was a sewer. - -At the end of the Valley of Siloam is another means of providing for the -wants of the city in the matter of water; that is the well _Bir Eyub_, -the ancient En-rogel, the boundary between the tribes of Judah and -Benjamin[879]. It is situated in a deep narrow cleft of the valley, with -precipitous mountains on every side; and formerly furnished water to -Jerusalem, as it still continues to do, the inhabitants of Siloam -driving a brisk trade during the summer droughts. I have already -mentioned this well[880], and now proceed to give a more detailed -account of it. In the month of October, 1858, _Bir Eyub_ was perfectly -dry, and I availed myself of this event, unfortunate for Jerusalem, to -descend into it. I reached the bottom, covered with fine sand, and there -was able to examine a small cavity in the rock on the west, mentioned by -Mejir ed-Din, from which the water flows in the rainy season. It was -then completely dry, but I think that a spring formerly issued from it. -I believe that the well (108 feet deep) is a cavity naturally worn by -the constant flow of the water, but that it has afterwards been dressed -with a chisel. It is now rectangular in plan, and gradually diminishes -from the top to the bottom; the side walls are formed of large blocks in -the lower part; as we ascend their size decreases; small holes occur -among these at intervals, through which the rock can be seen, and the -water runs into the well[881]. The stones recede, one behind the other, -as we ascend, and they are perfectly united without any apparent trace -of mortar, and must be bolted together with iron clamps or stone tenons -to have enabled them to stand firm during so many centuries, and yet to -seem likely to stand for many more. I have no doubt that the masonry is -of the highest antiquity. The well is supplied by the rains which, -sinking into the surrounding mountainous country, descend naturally to -this vault at the lowest level. I have convinced myself of this by -careful observation at the rainy seasons, and have ascertained that the -well did not begin to fill until the rain had fallen for several days, -and that the level of the water was not affected, unless the rain was -heavy and continuous. I also found that the well did not overflow into -the Kidron, unless this rain lasted for several days, and that it ceased -when the fine weather returned, and a dry wind sprang up. In 1861 the -rain was so heavy that the overflow lasted for fifteen days, but during -this time there was very little sunshine in the neighbourhood of -Jerusalem. The above explanation will, I trust, be satisfactory to all, -except the Arabs, who account for the wonder in the following -manner[882]: "We all know that the _Haram es-Sherif_ is constantly -guarded by sixty thousand angels. Now, by a decree of Heaven, while the -heavenly host watch in prayer around the sacred rock (_es-Sakharah_), an -equal number of evil spirits groan in the depths of the mountain, -condemned to support upon their accursed foreheads the weight of the -holy edifice, and of the vast plateau that encircles it. The weight is -terrible, but the following circumstance is marvellous. Every time that -a faithful Mohammedan, after due purification, places his foot upon the -ground of the _Haram_, the weight of his body increases the burden borne -by the demons seventy-fold. If the devotees are numerous, if they -frequently go to implore the divine mercy in that favoured spot, the -sufferings of the fiends are proportionately increased; they burst into -tears of grief and rage. The more ardent is the zeal of the believers, -the fuller is the reservoir, wherein, drop by drop, the tears of the -enemies of God are collected. Hence the abundance or the deficiency of -the water in _Bir Eyub_ measures the bounty of the Creator to His -creatures. It only depends then on our own prayers to have good -harvests, and when drought comes, we ought to accuse ourselves of a lack -of devotion." M. Saintine thinks that this account, when stripped of its -marvels, denotes that all the water-courses in the city flow into the -lower part of the _Haram es-Sherif_, and thence are conducted by a -conduit into this well. This I cannot admit, because the waters running -down the western bank of the Tyropoeon follow the course of that -valley, and those which fall on the eastern are caught by the reservoirs -constructed for that purpose, and the small quantity that escapes, -falls, as I have already stated[883], into the Kidron Valley, opposite -to the Tomb of Absalom. - -Let us now pass on to consider the Fountain of the Virgin, the only -useful spring in the neighbourhood of Jerusalem, of which I have already -given an account[884], as well as of the upper pool of Siloam, which is -supplied by the Fountain; but I have not yet described the phenomenon of -its intermittence, the quality of its water, and the conduit connecting -the two places. S. Jerome, as I have already observed, and the -historians of the Crusades, noticed that the flow of the water was not -regular, so that the occurrence is by no means novel. Dr Robinson[885] -gives the following account of it: "As we were preparing to measure the -basin of the upper fountain and explore the passage leading from it, my -companion was standing on the lower step near the water, with one foot -on the step and the other on a loose stone lying in the basin. All at -once he perceived the water coming into his shoe; and supposing the -stone had rolled, he withdrew his foot to the step; which however was -also now covered with water. This instantly excited our curiosity; and -we now perceived the water rapidly bubbling up from under the lower -step. In less than five minutes it had risen in the basin nearly or -quite a foot; and we could hear it gurgling off through the interior -passage. In ten minutes more it had ceased to flow; and the water in the -basin was again reduced to its former level." I have repeatedly observed -the same thing, and for some time was unable to explain it, and -therefore questioned the villagers of Siloam, and so learnt, from the -more ignorant, the story of the dragon, and from the wiser, that the -spring had a flux and reflux like the sea; and they were prepared to -instruct me on its periodicity. How I at last discovered the true cause -I will relate in speaking of the _Hammam es-Shefa_. Meanwhile I only -mention, as an unquestionable fact, that the phenomenon undoubtedly -occurs both in the rainy and dry seasons, but that the supply is greater -in the former than in the latter. - -The water from the fountain flows into the upper pool of Siloam by means -of a subterranean conduit, which follows a winding course in the rock, -instead of going directly from north to south. In some places it is not -more than 2-1/4 feet high; in others 4 or even 5 feet; and in some parts -it is still higher, especially towards the Pool of Siloam. Its width in -general is about three feet, but near the southern mouth it increases up -to four. It has been hewn out of the rock in a very rude manner, so that -I am disposed to attribute it to the age of Solomon; especially as it -has been made to convey the water of the Fountain to a place where it -was more accessible to the inhabitants of the city, and could be -collected in the large reservoirs from which the gardens below, the -King's Gardens, were irrigated. In the 17th century a monk, by name -Julius, explored the whole of the dark damp passage. After him the Abbe -Desmazures, then an Englishman named Hyde, and Drs Robinson and Smith, -and also Tobler. I have traversed it several times, the last occasion -being in the month of February 1861; but I cannot advise any one to -follow my example, as the constant ruin continually increases the -difficulty of the undertaking, and there is always danger of the earth -falling in at any moment. This conduit explains why the intermittence is -observed in Siloam. The general belief in the country is that the source -springs from the lower cavities in Mount Moriah (as the river of -Ezekiel's vision[886]). I am of the same opinion, but must reserve this -point also for my description of the _Hammam es-Shefa_. The water of the -Fountain is limpid and slightly brackish; it contains lime, magnesia, -and sulphuric acid: its specific gravity is 1.0035: its temperature is -usually from 61.25 deg. to 65.75 deg. Fahrenheit. It is only drunk by -the inhabitants of Jerusalem when the supplies in their cisterns fail; -however, the peasants of Siloam use it for all purposes. Still it is -always a boon to the citizens, as it irrigates the gardens of Siloam, -which are rendered wonderfully fruitful, besides supplying the tanners -and washerwomen, and cattle of all kinds. - -I have already identified the Lower Pool of Siloam with the Pool of -Solomon, and stated that it now receives the sewage of the city; but it -must have been filled from the Upper Pool, and used to regulate the -supplies to the gardens, and increase the volume of the stream of the -Kidron. - -In the neighbourhood of the city, on the north and north-west, remains -of conduits are found, by which perhaps water was brought into the city, -but I have not been able to discover whence the supply came; and there -are, besides, some reservoirs and cisterns, none of which date from a -remote period. The most important work, as regards its size, is the pool -at the head of the Kidron valley, which I believe to have been -constructed solely to collect and preserve the waters for the wants of -those who dwelt in the neighbourhood, and to prevent the streams, -flowing from the adjoining hill-sides, from being absorbed in the -ground. At one time I thought that a subterranean conduit took the water -from the pool into the city; but after the most careful examination of -the ground in the vicinity, I am able to declare that no such conduit -exists. The reasons which have led me to this conclusion will appear in -the following account of my investigations. The people of the country -had informed me that at night, when the city was perfectly quiet, the -noise of flowing water could be heard beneath the Damascus Gate by any -one who placed his ear on the ground. I made the experiment several -times, and found it to be the case. When I excavated the ancient North -Gate (in the foundations of the present Damascus Gate), as I have -already described in the second chapter[887], I descended into the -cisterns just on the north of the gate, and repeated the experiment at -the bottom of them, and here I perceived more distinctly the gurgling of -water, which was still more audible after Said Pasha, Commandant of the -garrison of Jerusalem, had emptied these two cisterns of the rubbish -that encumbered them. It must also be observed that the noise is heard -louder after rain than at other times. This, therefore, led me to -believe that there was a conduit which transported the water into the -city, and consequently I many times made careful investigations in the -tract of land between the Kidron Pool and the Damascus Gate; but these -all failed in producing the desired result; and after levelling the -ground, penetrating into cisterns, and removing ruins, I came to the -conclusion that its existence was impossible; for, if it had been -constructed, it must have run at a great depth underground, and been -wholly excavated in the rock. A work of this kind, especially for such a -distance, would have been too much for Jewish science; for all the other -conduits in Palestine which can be assigned to an early period, if not -covered with long slabs, as is common, are not much below the level of -the ground, so that there are apertures at intervals to give them light. -Nor is this the only reason against the existence of a conduit; for in -examining the sewer in the Tyropoeon valley inside the city, near the -Damascus Gate, I obtained permission from the Pasha, when it was -repaired, to deepen the excavation, and found no trace of a water-course -in the place where it would naturally have run; unless indeed we suppose -it to have been made at a greater depth in the rock itself, or to have -crossed Bezetha, and come to an end either in Moriah or close to it on -the north-west. Consequently I conclude that the gurgling heard at the -Damascus Gate proceeds from the sewers in its neighbourhood, which -descend from Gareb and Bezetha and unite in the Tyropoeon valley. - -I terminate the examination of the waters outside the city by observing -that the Pilgrim's Pool[888], on the north (which I have already -noticed), is insufficiently supplied from the little valley above it, -and anciently discharged its waters into the Pool of Bethesda. I also -mention again the water dropping from the rock inside the Royal Caverns, -which some, who have only seen it in the rainy season and not in the -summer when it is dried up, consider to be a spring. I do not think that -these two sources contributed greatly in former time to augment the -supply of water to the city. - -Before the 12th of June, 1860, no other spring was known in Jerusalem -than that which rises at the bottom of the well of the _Hammam -es-Shefa_. With regard to this there have been many enquiries as to -whence its waters come, by what way they enter Moriah, and whither they -go. At the time just mentioned, I discovered the spring on the property -of the Daughters of Sion, as I have already described[889]; but about -two years previously, in the month of July, I had been called in to -examine some water which appeared near Herod's Gate, when the -foundations were dug for a large building belonging to Mustafa Bey, -which now bears his name. Having premised this, I will state the -conclusions at which I have arrived from my investigations at the three -places just mentioned, and also give my explanation of the phenomenon of -the intermittence of the water in the Fountain of the Virgin. - -In the foundation, on the south side of Mustafa Bey's house, at a depth -of 22 feet, a quantity of water had appeared during the night and filled -the hole. The master-mason and the owner, the sole architects, believed -that it had filtered through from some cistern in the neighbourhood, -and therefore set to work to bale it out. When this was done they were -very much surprised to see that a thin stream of water, coming from the -north-west, continued to fill the place; they therefore deepened the -excavation a little, and widened the opening, but they were unable to -account for the abundance of the water, which hindered their work. On -arriving at the spot I suggested excavating, but the fear of the -increased expenditure kept them from agreeing to this; so that, under -the circumstances, I had no other means of ascertaining anything, than -examining a number of cisterns which were in the neighbourhood; and -after tasting the water in them, and comparing it with that in the hole, -I found that the latter was of the same quality as that in the _Hammam -es-Shefa_ and the Fountain of the Virgin; and then I began to believe -that it came from a spring. The owner of the place consented to suspend -the works in this part for eight days, but I could not prevail on him to -permit me to make any excavation near the place on the north-west; and -during this time the water flowed through a canal which I had -constructed for it. After building two massive piers on each side of the -stream and turning a strong arch over it, the works proceeded; so that -the stream ran away to the south, without our having found a solution of -the problem; but I have no doubt that careful investigation would have -revealed the spring-head close by on the north-west. - -The discovery of June 12th, and the identity in taste and colour between -the water then found and that of which I have spoken, caused me to -examine the part of the city between the two points; and though the Arab -houses in this district caused many difficulties, I succeeded in -ascertaining that in this direction there were cisterns, into which -water found its way, similar to that at the spring, and consequently not -fit for all the purposes of life. From this I concluded that the two -springs must be connected, and the upper supply the lower. But still -there was the question, what became of all the water which issued from -the spring at the Convent of the Daughters of Sion? At the first moment -I was disposed to think that it flowed into the subterranean gallery, in -the direction of the north-west corner of the _Haram es-Sherif_; but my -observations have brought me to the conclusion that it goes into the -well of the _Hammam es-Shefa_, as I will now shew. - -The stream flowed naturally to the south, therefore I carefully probed -all the western wall on the inside of the gallery to see if the water -passed along by it; but I found no signs, and so perceived that the -conduit from the spring had turned away in another direction. Though the -gallery was almost free from water in August, and quite dry in September -and October, the stream still flowed abundantly; so that had it run -along the gallery, it could not have escaped my observation. Still it -might have been objected, that possibly the stream was absorbed and its -course concealed by the earth at the bottom of the gallery, so I dammed -up the waters until a kind of pool was formed, and then set them free -on a sudden; but not a drop appeared in the gallery; so that I thought -that they must go into the _Hammam es-Shefa_. I consider the water in -this well to be the same as that which supplies the Fountain of the -Virgin, for the following reasons. The quality of the water is the same; -and though that in the well is rather turbid and that in the Fountain is -clear, I attribute this solely to the presence of rubbish in the well, -the waters of which are afterwards filtered during their course. The -water in the well has for a long time supplied a bath built over it, as -it still does. Traditions point it out as ancient, and the Talmud[890] -appears to confirm them, saying, that "the well was excavated by the -children of the captivity, and the priests drew water from it by means -of a pulley." We may therefore suppose that the Jews used to purify -themselves here, before entering the Temple, as the Mohammedans still do -on their festival days, before they go into the _Haram es-Sherif_. This -bath is the cause of the intermittence of the stream in the Fountain of -the Virgin, for at certain periods of the day its keepers use the water -for the purposes of the establishment, and consequently not only prevent -it from rising high enough to reach the level of the conduit carrying it -off to the Kidron Valley, but also empty the well, so that it requires -some time to fill again. As this is done twice in every twenty-four -hours, the phenomenon of intermittence occurs just as often. This I have -proved by repeated observations and trials, and I recommend any one who -seeks for a more marvellous cause to follow my example. The quantity of -water in the well is hardly affected by the rains. The dirty water from -the bath is carried by a conduit into the sewer in the Tyropoeon -valley, and aids in transporting the filth therein outside the city. - -Let us now devote a few lines to the pools inside the city, which I have -already mentioned. Near the Jaffa Gate, on the north, is a small pool, -which many have supposed to be the one in which Bathsheba was bathing -when she was seen by David[891]; but I believe the desire of assigning a -legend to every spot to be the sole authority for the tradition. I have -not been able to examine this reservoir, but the Greeks, to whom it -belongs, and who have filled it with earth to prevent its becoming a -receptacle of filth, have, with many other of the inhabitants of -Jerusalem, assured me that it was very narrow, and that the workmanship -in it did not correspond with that of the Jewish era, but with that of -Saladin or Solyman; also that it had no connexion with the other ancient -water-works. - -With regard to the Pool Amygdalon, so often mentioned, I have to remark -that many of the cisterns, excavated in the upper city, are filled from -it, among which I may especially denote that which commonly bears S. -Helena's name, near the north-east corner of the Church of the -Resurrection. On this point there cannot be any doubt, since before the -Coptic hospice was erected on the northern side of Amygdalon, a large -conduit was visible near its north-east corner, which had been observed -by several of the older masons. Besides this, the waters of the pool -were certainly directed into the different sewers in the upper city in -order to cleanse them; as we may still see in part, for the water which -has been used for the bath, is conveyed by a conduit into the sewer in -the street of David. - -The Cistern of S. Helena has, as I believe, been sometimes called the -Cistern of Golgotha, and it has been said that anything light cast into -it appeared again in Siloam. I do not believe that this was the case, -but if the identification be correct, it might occur in the following -manner; that if the water in the cistern rose above a certain height it -might escape by a waste pipe, on the south-east of the cistern, into the -central sewer in the Tyropoeon, and thus, when there was a large -surplus of water, might easily descend to Siloam, bearing any floating -substance along with it. There are many other cisterns in the -neighbourhood of the Holy Sepulchre which I have examined, but these do -not help me to an explanation of the matter, as their waste pipes are -but small. - -I return to the Pool of Bethesda[892], to direct attention to the -Herodian masonry, which was certainly either built or repaired at the -erection of the Antonia. The stones which rest on the levelled rock are -perfectly united together in the following way: on the outer surface of -one stone is a rectangular mortise, into which fits a corresponding -tenon, left projecting from a stone with all its faces regularly -squared, and of somewhat smaller size than the first mentioned. Thus, -when a row[893] was finished the outer stones were about two inches -apart, and so the whole wall resembled a chess-board, all the squares -being separated by channels running horizontally and vertically. These -intervals were filled with very strong masonry; and in order that the -water might not possibly find its way through the joinings of the inner -stones, after the surface was thus made level, the whole was covered -with a strong cement. The position of the pool shews that it was not -only formed for the service of the Temple, but also for its defence. -This work, which could so easily be made again fit for use, is, on the -contrary, rapidly falling to ruin, being utterly neglected, like all the -other works of antiquity. - -There were some other pools inside the city--for example one, where the -barrack of the _Haram_[894] now stands; another, on the south of the -property of the Armenian Convent, which I myself have examined; but of -these every trace has now disappeared; and I only mention them to shew -how much better the city was supplied with water in former times by -means of proper contrivances. - -I have already explained[895] how the inhabitants now provide themselves -with water, and will only add that, of the 992 cisterns in Jerusalem -and its vicinity, the greater number are ancient, and are excavated in -the rock. In them the water would keep excellently, if proper attention -were paid to them, so that the city would never fall short; but they too -are neglected; and consequently there is in many years a want of water, -a great quantity of which is either absorbed by the ground and lost, or -runs into the sewers, which are in even worse repair, and, or lastly, -floods the streets, to the inconvenience of passengers, and the injury -of the public health. - -I conclude by remarking that, although Jerusalem is situated in a -position where limestone rocks abound, and where springs of drinkable -water are not to be found, (there being but one which could be used, -even in extremity,) the city has never suffered from thirst in all the -numerous sieges which it has undergone. The besiegers, however, have -almost always been reduced to great straits from this cause; for -example, the armies of Pompeius, of Antiochus Eupator, and of the -Crusaders. Josephus, indeed, says that the Roman troops under Titus did -not want water, but this is in a speech addressed to his -fellow-citizens, when he is exhorting them to submit in order to avoid a -more miserable fate; and he brings forward this unwonted circumstance as -a sign that heaven had abandoned them, just as had happened when the -city was besieged by Nebuchadnezzar. Still great distress, according to -Dio Cassius[896], did prevail among the Roman army. The inhabitants, -however, never felt any such want; their miseries always arose from -hunger; and William of Tyre[897] expressly states that when the army of -Godfrey of Bouillon entered Jerusalem they found plenty of water. From -the earliest period the supply appears to have been well maintained; and -it is to be hoped that some person or other will before long restore the -city to its former condition; and by repairing the ancient water-works -render it no longer dependent on the rains. Woe betide Jerusalem if -showers should fail during two years in succession! - - -FOOTNOTES: - -[860] Eccl. ii. 4, 6. - -[861] Ant. VIII. 7, Sec. 3. - -[862] Plate X. - -[863] Cant. iv. 12. - -[864] The reservoirs constructed at certain points along the course of -an aqueduct to regulate the supply of water. - -[865] Cant. iv. 12. - -[866] Page 100. - -[867] Ant. XVIII. 3, Sec. 2; Jewish War, II. 9, Sec. 4. - -[868] Joma, fol. 31. 1. - -[869] Greg. Abulpharagii seu Barhebraei Chronicum Syriacum, ed. G. G. -Kirsch. Lips. 1789. 2 Vols. 4to. - -[870] Plate LXII. - -[871] 2 Chron. xxxii. 30. - -[872] Isai. vii. 3. - -[873] Plate XXXI. - -[874] 2 Kings xviii. 17. - -[875] 2 Kings xviii. 18, 26, 28. - -[876] 2 Chron. xxxii. 3, 4, 5, 30. - -[877] Jewish War, V. 7, Sec. 3. - -[878] 2 Kings xii. 20. - -[879] Josh. xv. 7; Plate XLVIII. - -[880] Page 188. - -[881] Plate X. - -[882] I avail myself of the words of M. Saintine (Trois ans en Judee, p. -132), as I was in his company when an old Sheikh told us the story. - -[883] Page 92. - -[884] Page 184. - -[885] Biblical Researches, Vol. I. p. 506 (1st ed.). - -[886] Ezek. xlvii. - -[887] Page 36. - -[888] Page 14. - -[889] Page 63. - -[890] Gloss. in Mishnajoth in Octav. in Midd. Perek. 5. - -[891] 2 Sam. xi. 2-4. - -[892] Plate XVI. - -[893] See Plate X. fig. 6. - -[894] Jewish War, V. 11, Sec. 4. - -[895] Page 14. - -[896] Dio Cassius, LXIV. 4. - -[897] Lib. VIII. c. 24, G. D. p. 761. - - - - -CHAPTER IX. - - GENERAL REMARKS UPON THE PRESENT STATE OF THE CITY OF JERUSALEM. - - -In the previous chapters I have put forward the results of my researches -upon the topography, antiquities, and principal edifices of Jerusalem. I -now proceed to give a general idea of those things which a person -intending to reside there, or even to visit it, would wish to know; and -I commence by giving some information which may be useful to the -traveller. Jaffa is the seaport at which most persons, who intend to -visit Jerusalem, land. The distance between the two places is about -28-1/2 miles. The mournful aspect of the former city generally drives -away visitors after they have made a short stay and hastily traversed a -few filthy streets; but those who wish to spend a longer time and -carefully examine the antiquities of the place, or repose after their -voyage, will find two tolerably comfortable hotels. Besides these, the -Latin convent of the Franciscans entertains gratuitously all who apply -without regard to their religious opinions. Nor do the Greeks and -Armenians refuse to receive strangers, though they are established -especially for the members of their own communities. An inn or the Latin -convent is most convenient for a European. Consular agents of different -nations reside in the town, and shew the greatest courtesy and attention -to travellers; and through their dragomans or _cavas_ (consular guards), -or through the servants of the convent, one can obtain horses without -fear of being cheated. A three hours' ride along an excellent road takes -the traveller to Ramleh, a town without any inns; but where he can pass -the night in either the Latin, Greek, or Armenian convents, and on the -morrow pursue his course with the same horse to Jerusalem, where he will -arrive after a journey of eight or nine hours. I do not mention the -price of the bridle, saddle, and other necessaries of the journey, as -these vary with time and circumstances. - -In Jerusalem there are two inns kept by honest people; those, however, -who prefer availing themselves of the hospitality of the convents can do -so; but should of course make an offering before leaving, according to -their circumstances. This, however, is never demanded; nor will the -person who does not choose, or is unable to present it, be the less -kindly treated on that account. From the instant of his arrival the -traveller is pestered with interpreters and _ciceroni_. These it is -imprudent to engage without previous enquiries at their Consulate, or -from the Head of the religious community to which they belong; so too -with those who offer themselves to take charge of a caravan, or act as -escorts on journeys to the Jordan or Dead Sea, or other parts of -Palestine. The bargain should be struck with responsible chiefs alone, -at the Consulate, and all the conditions of the engagement should be -clearly stated in writing, so that no disputes may afterwards arise. -Persons who let out horses are not slow to offer themselves; but I -recommend the traveller to make good use of his judgment before hiring a -horse for a long period. After carefully examining it and its harness, -it is necessary to put down on paper all the terms of the agreement, in -the presence of two witnesses, to avoid having constant recourse to the -Consul's office. Generally, however, oral evidence is more esteemed in -the East than documentary, because the sense of words in a writing can -be easily altered. - -In case the traveller wishes to change money, let him beware of the -petty money-changers in the bazaars, and go to the banks recommended by -his Consul, or by the Head of his religious community. In buying -anything from Arab dealers, unless accompanied by an honest guide, the -stranger is always liable to be cheated, and to pay double the proper -value, because it is usual for his conductor to receive a percentage on -what his master spends. Most of all, distrust the itinerant dealers who -call at private houses, or who are found in the lobbies of convents, -hospices, and inns, or in the court before the Church of the -Resurrection. - -Any one who wishes to make a long stay at Jerusalem, and to hire a -house, should not treat with a _factotum_, but with some person in whom -he can place confidence. He will then get what he requires much more -cheaply. Before signing the contract he should ascertain the state of -the cisterns and their contents, the conduits, and the offices, unless -he wishes to find himself without water, or with leaky drains that will -make his house smell like a sewer. Let him also beware of foes, that lie -hid by day, but issue forth by night to murder sleep. Take care that all -defects observed in the scrutiny are at once repaired, for as soon as -the rent is paid, the proprietor will hold himself free to do nothing, -and will find a thousand pretexts to save himself from spending a -farthing, even though he be ordered to do it by the authorities. The -terrace-roofs are always in bad repair, so they must not be forgotten. -Let not a mistaken notion of economy induce the visitor to take an old -house; for in that case it is necessary to be always erecting barriers -against the rats and snakes, which the Arabs call the friends of the -house, and many other invaders. No one should hire a servant without a -character from a person of credit; and constant watchfulness is -necessary, especially when the domestics have the purchase of provisions -in their own hands: adulterated goods of all kinds are common enough in -Palestine, even to the refinement of black stones in sacks of coal, and -pebbles in soap. In a word, keep your eyes wide open, for the Arab is -omnivorous, and steals slowly, but steadily. Weights and measures are -not wanting in native shops, but such weights and measures! Every dealer -has a double set, and uses the just or the unjust according to -circumstances. The government officers appointed for this purpose do not -fail to visit the shops (politely giving notice of their intention -beforehand), and of course everything is then in order. Now and then a -victim is necessary, and the offence is denounced; but before the -offender is put in prison, it is made out to be a mistake on the part of -the police-officer, who is excused on the score of excess of zeal. These -things continually happen, and the evil is irreparable. With the -European dealers there is no danger of being cheated. - -The butchers are great rogues, and cheat in every possible way. The -tariffs sanctioned by the Government are not observed, and whoever wants -good meat must pay the butcher's price. Only those who are in authority, -and can make their complaints heard, are supplied according to the -tariff. The rest of the people suffer, and can get no redress from the -badly-paid subordinates of the Government, who are bribed to be blind -and deaf; and not unfrequently the complainant, if unprotected by one of -the Consuls, is maltreated by the vendors and the vigilant guardians of -the peace. - -The shops kept by Europeans are so well provided with the products of -that continent, that the stranger might easily forget that he was in -Palestine. Food and liquors of various kinds, clothes, and other -necessaries, come from England, Marseilles, and Trieste, and from many -parts of the East; so that any one of moderate means may supply his -wants sufficiently, but simply; and without these he can live on the -produce of the country at a cheap rate. - -Vegetables are scarce and dear, but annual supplies, in a preserved -state, are sent from France. Beef and veal are seldom offered for sale, -and are not good. There is plenty of mutton, sheep and goat, and -sometimes of camel flesh; but the last two, with the inferior kinds of -the former, are only bought by the poor. The European also finds pork, -wild boar, hares and gazelles. Fowls, turkeys, ducks, and pigeons, are -plentiful in the market, which is sometimes supplied with partridges and -other game, and with fresh fish from Jaffa. Eggs and milk are plentiful; -cheese and butter are imported, only because the peasants do not know -how to make them, and will not take the trouble to learn. Oranges, -lemons, pomegranates, cucumbers, melons, figs, almonds, and grapes, are -very abundant; dates and bananas, the produce of the country, are less -plentiful. There are also peaches, apricots, plums, pears, and apples, -and many other fruits too numerous to mention. The wines of the country -are made at Hebron, Bethlehem, and S. John: these are very good, but -rather strong; and as they are insufficient for the wants of the place, -and those of France are very dear, Cyprus wine is much used. The bread -during the last few years has become pretty good, and that made by the -Jews is very fair, and would be still better if they had proper mills to -grind the wheat; those worked by horses and asses and by the hand all -belong to private owners. A single windmill, erected by Sir M. -Montefiore, has greatly improved the quality of the bread. The grain of -the country, when properly ground and prepared, makes excellent bread; -but many European families use flour imported from Trieste, which is -very good. The Arab bread, on which most of the people live, is -abominable, being badly made and full of grit. It is needless to observe -that the dealers pay no regard to the orders of the government, and sell -loaves either of light weight, or adulterated with cheaper materials. -When Surraya Pasha inspected the shops in person, on which occasion I -accompanied him, twelve offenders against the law were imprisoned; and -many others only escaped by having no more bread to sell; that is to -say, they had heard of the Pasha's coming, and had hidden their stock. - -There is no lack of watchmakers, goldsmiths, blacksmiths, tailors, -bootmakers, and cabinetmakers, who can supply not only the necessaries, -but even the luxuries of life. There are excellent building materials to -be obtained, and good quarrymen, stonecutters, and masons. Wood is -rather scarce in the country, but can be got from Egypt or Beyrout, -where the yards are overstocked by the supplies from Trieste and -Lebanon. - -The French, Austrian, and Turkish posts facilitate intercourse with -Europe and the East. The steamers also of the French Messagerie -Imperiale and of the Austrian Lloyd arrive at the port of Jaffa on -alternate weeks. The Turkish post is very badly managed; for the courier -is often robbed of his mail-bag, and when it arrives in safety, the -distribution of its contents is conducted so carelessly, that the first -comer may possess himself of any letter he pleases; so that nothing -valuable should be entrusted to it. - -The commerce of the city is on a very small scale, nor are there many -merchants who speculate; and such as there are, except the Europeans and -some few of the inhabitants, are more to be feared than the Bedouins who -infest the open country. The value of money changes from one moment to -another, according to the bankers' caprice, without the Government -taking any notice of the matter. The legal rate of interest is 10, and -sometimes 12 per cent., but this is disregarded; the usurers, who are -numerous, demand 25 and even 30 per cent. Business in Jerusalem is -transacted slowly, not only owing to the nature of the inhabitants, but -also because Friday, Saturday, and Sunday, are the days of rest to the -Mohammedans, Jews, and Christians, respectively; not to speak of the -other numerous festivals which each community keeps holy during the -course of the year. - -If a European wishes to remain in good health, he should wear flannel, -and avoid using linen, because the mornings and evenings are damp, and -the temperature is frequently liable to considerable changes. When he is -obliged to expose himself to the sun, he should cover his head with -white cloth, and thus he will escape unhurt. When on a journey, and -exposed to great heat, he should wear white clothing, and eat and drink -very sparingly, not taking much water while _en route_. - -It is well to be aware that all the gates are shut at sunset, excepting -the Jaffa Gate, which remains open an hour longer; so that the traveller -who arrives too late may be obliged to sleep in the open air, unless he -have taken the precaution to furnish himself with an order from the -Commandant. - -Whoever goes out into the streets by night must carry a lantern, not -only because it is so ordered by the authorities, and a person breaking -this rule is liable to be arrested by a patrol or by the police, but -also because it is otherwise impossible to avoid stumbling in some ill -repaired part of the road, or being attacked by the packs of dogs, who -guard and infest the streets of the city. - -Having thus given some general information and advice, I proceed to make -a few remarks on the present state of the city. A walk through the -streets, when undertaken without a special purpose, is more oppressive -than refreshing. They are narrow and dark, frequently arched over, and -almost deserted. They are paved with stones, ill joined and uneven. -These are not easy to walk on, as their surfaces are smooth and -slippery, especially in the rainy season; and on horseback they are very -dangerous, as I experienced myself the first time that I saw them. As -the city slopes from west to east, the streets generally fall in the -same direction; so that the upper are less filthy than the lower, which -in the rainy season are horribly foul, since the dirt all lodges in -them, and no one takes the trouble to remove it. Surraya Pasha issued -strict orders to the street police, and frequently inspected them -himself; but it is very hard work to keep the Arabs from their beloved -mud. In the more frequented parts of the town the shops are generally -mean in appearance, and disgust rather than amuse the spectators. The -houses are built with small stones, some black with age, the rest light -grey. Most of them have no windows outside, and those which have -resemble prisons or monasteries, as the apertures are small and barred. -This produces a very dull and oppressive effect, until the eye becomes -accustomed to it. The entrance-doors are generally low and narrow, and I -recommend the stranger not to form his opinion of the internal -arrangements from what he sees on the threshold. The houses have -terrace-roofs, many of which are covered with slabs of stone well -united; but the generality are formed of small pieces mixed with cement, -beaten into a solid mass, which however does not possess much power of -resistance, as it cracks with the heat of the sun, and admits the water -in rainy weather; consequently many of the houses are damp, and their -inhabitants liable to fevers. These terrace-roofs are surrounded by a -wall five or six feet high, serving as a parapet. It is formed of small -earthenware tubes, making it look like the side of a dovecot; but by -this means the women, by whom the roofs are used as places for exercise -and amusement, can see, without being seen. - -Heaps of ruins and filth are seen in the public places, and no one -frequents them for business; beggars crave an alms, lepers exhibit their -sores, vagrant curs snarl over their booty. Camels crouched down await -their burdens, and fill the air with a disgusting odour, caused by the -ointment with which they are smeared to cure skin-diseases. Disgust, -fear, hypocrisy, slavishness and distrust, are the common expressions in -the faces of the men, shewing the different races of which they are -composed; opposed one to another in religion and fortunes, victors and -vanquished, jealous and distrustful one of the other. The women are -generally covered with a white cloth, looking like ghosts, or if -uncovered, would look better veiled. If wearied with the dullness -within, we go outside the walls, we find a few olive-trees on the -north-west, a few young plantations on the west, and the rest barren and -desolate. Everywhere deep valleys or steep hills, stony and rocky roads, -impracticable for carriages, difficult for horses, and painful for -foot-travellers. Wherever we go the memorials of the dead are before our -eyes; for the cemeteries are the places of general resort. Escaping, -however, from the city, from its bad smells and loathsome and -importunate beggars, we can ascend the hills, and contemplate a -panorama, where every stone is a witness of God's revelation, and every -ruin a monument of His wrath. On these bare summits high and ennobling -thoughts fill the mind, bringing a calm that is found with difficulty in -bustling and crowded cities. He who is careless or unbelieving, he who -travels only from curiosity or to kill time, had better take my advice, -and avoid Jerusalem. There he will have no amusement beyond taking a -ride, or smoking and drinking bad coffee in an Arab _cafe_; watching the -languid passers by, or listening to Arab songs accompanied on tuneless -instruments. He, however, who has a family or business to care for, or -is occupied in studying the inexhaustible riches of the soil, will live -in Jerusalem as agreeably as in any other place. - -There is but little pleasant social intercourse in Jerusalem, owing to -the jealousies among the rival sects; so that the conversation generally -runs upon the failings and faults of the members of the communities -which are not represented at the party; and scandalous stories and ill -natured remarks are retailed to the visitor, who is soon wearied and -disgusted. - -Hence it will appear that Jerusalem offers but slight attractions to one -who is not contented with the memories of the past, and the love of -archaeological research. These, however, supply an unceasing field of -enjoyment and constant occupation. - -Jerusalem is not inhabited by a people; it is a great field wherein are -collected members from every nation, brought there by their religious -belief, and about to depart when their end is accomplished. No city -resembles less a fatherland, none is more like a place of exile. The -Turks, after impoverishing and governing the land after their own -fashion, give place to new magistrates, and return home with full -purses; the Arabs, who acquire there an idea of civilization, depart in -search of a place where they can lay out their property to advantage; -while those who remain barbarians, after gaining a moderate sum, retire -to the desert to end their days. The European missionaries and -travellers, after a long stay, desire at length to die in their native -land. The Western and Eastern pilgrims make but a brief sojourn, and -though many of them bewail leaving the Holy Places, certain it is they -never remain. The Jews replace one another constantly, coming to ask -leave to die in that fatherland, which in life they have been unable to -regain. The few families established at Jerusalem are not ancient. Each -speaks of the date of his arrival, but is uncertain of the length of his -stay. In the Holy City, therefore, the population is constantly -changing, renewed daily by the pilgrims, and oppressed by a -disheartening uncertainty caused by the despotism and incapacity of the -Government of the Sublime Porte. This of course tends to prevent the -formation of intimate friendships and the fusion of the different races. - -The greater part of the land does not belong to its occupants, but is -the property of the mosques or of the churches, and is therefore called -_Wakf_. There is the _Wakf_ of the _Haram es-Sherif_, the property of -the great mosque; the _Wakf el-Tekiyeh_, the property of the Hospital of -S. Helena (as it is commonly called); the _Wakf Franji_, the property of -the Latin convent; the _Wakf Rumi_, the property of the Greek convent; -and in the same way they speak of the _Wakf_ of the Russians, Armenians, -Greek Catholics, Armenian Catholics, English, Prussians, Copts, -Abyssinians, and Jews. Another part of the ground falls by law to these -public bodies in case of the extinction of the families who possess it, -or a failure of the male line. These are called _mulk maukuf_ i.e. -mortmain. Hence it comes that the smaller part only of the soil is -private property (_mulk_); so that, owing to these restrictions, a -single small estate belongs to several owners, and there are many -difficulties and much danger of being cheated in buying land. - -I will now offer a few remarks upon the condition of the different -religious sects, premising that they entertain the bitterest feelings -one towards another, and are only restrained from greater excesses by -the fear that the Turks will profit by their quarrels, and listen to the -highest bidder. The Consuls of the different nations have hard work to -keep the peace, finding themselves of but little power in allaying -strifes; not for want of will and moral courage, but because their -authority only extends to small matters, and they are not properly -seconded by the spiritual heads of the communities, who rather stir up -the disputants and increase the difficulty of restoring peace. - -The most wealthy and powerful, and, in times past (and sometimes even -now), the most distinguished in these contentions are the Latins, -Greeks, and Armenians; and the Turks are never sorry to see them at -strife, as they reap a harvest from both the losers and the winners. -Scarcely had the tempest of war caused by the Crusades passed away, when -these communities began to struggle at the court of the Sublime Porte -for the possession of the Holy Places. Each produced _firmans_ given by -Mohammed, Omar, Saladin, or various Sultans; and the ministers at the -court always decided in favour of the highest bidder, so that the same -place was assigned by different _firmans_ to the Latins, the Greeks, or -the Armenians. In consequence it has happened that one party, believing -itself to be the true proprietor of a particular Sanctuary, has declared -the other an impostor, until the sight of a _firman_ of older date has -shown the vanity of its claims. - -The enmity of the clergy has descended to the people, and frequently, -upon the most futile pretexts, the churches and Holy Places have been -the theatres of fatal encounters between rival nations. The Pashas of -former times (now it is different) gladly interfered on these occasions, -to impose heavy fines upon the weaker party, and to sell impunity to the -strong, who were quite ready to begin fresh disturbances the next day. -At one time the Greeks were driven from the Holy Places by order of the -Porte; now the Latins were subjected to the utmost annoyance; while the -Armenians profited by the discord to establish themselves in the -Sanctuaries belonging to one or other of the disputants, whose claims -they pretended to be supporting. The Catholic Governments lacked the -means, and perhaps the inclination, to interfere directly in such -questions. The ministers of France, Spain, Venice, and Austria, in -Constantinople, sometimes listened to the complaints of the religious -fraternities, to whom the custody of the Holy Places had been confided. -But whether their own governments failed to support them, or whether -that of the Sultan was not found tractable, certain it is that their -applications were seldom heeded; and, in fact, cases occurred of even -personal violence being employed against the French Ministers and the -Venetian _Baili_, or still more frequently, against their subordinates. -Until within a few years past, money was the only way of succeeding in -negotiations with the Porte. Hence it may be understood, as regards the -Latins, how it is that the guardianship of the Holy Land has been so -expensive to Europe[898]. The Franciscans had also the privilege of -acquiring real property and disposing of the alms of the Faithful; until -the Propaganda began to view with dislike such large sums removed -entirely from its control; so in order to inaugurate a fresh system, a -Patriarch was established at Jerusalem in 1847, and assigned as his -revenue the fifth part of the alms received by the Guardians. This -arrangement gave him the right of examining the accounts, and to the -Propaganda upon the management of affairs. He was, however, so -obstinately opposed by the monks, that he was obliged to make a -compromise with them, in which the interests, if not the minds, of the -two parties were somewhat reconciled. The Greeks also were reduced to -the same situation as the Latins; for a community which is obliged to -support its influence at the Turkish Court by the aid of money alone, is -compelled to have recourse to expedients of every sort in order to -obtain it. Consequently, either from the piety of the faithful or the -activity of the monks, the Greek Patriarchate of Jerusalem has amassed a -very large property, consisting of possessions in Wallachia, Bessarabia, -Greece, and other countries, besides its estates in Palestine, and -especially in the neighbourhood of Jerusalem, which are being -continually augmented. The secretary of the Greek convent of S. -Constantine, the Archimandrite Nicoferus, has purchased in the last few -years a number of estates, the value of which is not less than 6,000,000 -piastres, or about L48,000. The property of the monasteries is almost -entirely derived from the legacies left by the monks, who purchase in -their own names, to leave to the convent, which always inherits their -possessions, except a small allowance to the parents of the deceased, if -they are living. The purchase-money, however, must come from the common -chest of the convent, for it is of course impossible that a poor monk -should have the means of buying land to such an amount. However this may -be, the convent ultimately obtains the property, and thus its rent-roll -increases. It still keeps on receiving the offerings of the faithful, -which it lays out in the purchase of real property. This the Franciscans -are now forbidden by the Propaganda to acquire; they are therefore -obliged to subsist, maintain their Sanctuaries, and entertain pilgrims, -on the alms which, to a greater or less amount, are sent to them from -Christendom. - -The revenues of the Armenians are chiefly supplied by landed property, -by the money which they have out at interest on good security, and by -the alms and dues of the pilgrims. They possess the best establishment -in Jerusalem, and their revenues are well administered; but in spite of -that they would not have so much influence as the Greeks and Latins, -were it not for those of their religion who fill high places in the -Turkish government. - -No part of the population furnishes so many subjects for reflexion as -the Jews, who dwell in the land of their fathers, without seeking to -imitate their example. A remnant of their nation, they stay in their -ancient capital, to pray, to weep, and to die, in the land that should -be their own. The greater part live without working, upon the gifts sent -by their industrious brethren in Europe and the East. From this -circumstance it will be easily understood how it is that misery and -indigence prevail among them, because they depend not on labour but on -alms, which diminish year by year, on account of the increasing numbers -who flock to Jerusalem to share them. When these supplies are -distributed slowly, or are scanty, they begin to murmur, and utter the -most unreasonable and shameless complaints against their benefactors. -The sole source of revenue of the Jewish community is the almsbox; and -when its contents diminish, the different congregations assemble and -choose persons, who are provided with papers from the Rabbis, -countersigned by the Consuls, and start as collectors, returning after -long journeys with the fruits of their wanderings. The alms thus -obtained are carelessly and thriftlessly distributed, and not applied to -any useful purpose, consequently these collections are constantly -repeated. Nor are they fairly divided; the truly poor, the sick, the -widows and the orphans, too weak to complain or resist, are often -neglected and defrauded; they cannot write, and therefore are not -feared; but those who can cry aloud and make their discontent heard, who -can give trouble or annoyance by complaints and intrigues, are attended -to and served. Those too who are appointed to distribute the alms are -utterly unfit for the duty, giving no heed and making no endeavours to -qualify themselves for it, since they are neither able nor willing to -make the best of the means committed to them, and secure its being -bestowed on deserving objects. In a word, the Jews at Jerusalem are -unfortunate in those who manage their affairs, for they are men who -neglect good advice, who are servile flatterers when they hope to gain, -and discontented grumblers when they get nothing. Hence it is their own -fault that the Jews are degraded and miserable, because they do not -attempt to repress the abuses that prevail. If the constant arrival of -idle paupers was prevented, the funds would be sufficient for those who -really want. Again, most of those who come are aged men, and unable to -resist the demands of certain Arabs, who term themselves their -protectors. If only the Jews would act with energy against their -oppressors, the Government would attend to them; but, rather than claim -their rights, they submit to those who rob them of their scanty alms. -Formerly they were also oppressed by the Government, which was enough to -account for their unfortunate condition; but since 1855 they have had no -ground of complaint on this score, for Kiamil Pasha and Surraya Pasha -treated them as fairly as all the other religious communities, by -affording a ready ear to their complaints, by discomfiting their enemies -at Hebron, and making the roads safe which they frequent on their -pilgrimage. These Governors have also made laws enforcing cleanliness in -the Jewish Quarter, have protected their rights in the purchase of land -and houses, have admitted them to their parties, and visited their -principal men; so that it is not now the fault of the Pashas if the Jews -still live in dirt and degradation. It would be well if there were a -Board in Jerusalem, commissioned to investigate the motives which bring -settlers into the country, and prevent those from coming whose sole mode -of subsistence would be the alms of others. They might also employ part -of the money entrusted to them in succouring real misery, and the rest -in supporting useful institutions, in purchasing lands, and bringing -them under cultivation. Thus might the Jews be rescued from their -degradation, and at length rendered happy instead of miserable. - -We must also say a few words on the Protestant Mission to the Jews. This -was established in 1840, but can scarcely be said to have met with the -success that the efforts it has made, and the sums it has expended, -deserve. I do not believe that the number of converts, during the 23 -years that the Mission has been in operation, amounts to 150; and a very -small number of these has been won in Jerusalem. Most of them, after -being converted in some part of Europe, come to Palestine to find -occupation, which they have lost in their native country from deserting -the creed of their fathers. On arriving they are assisted and employed -by the Mission; but, were they not thus cared for, I fear that many of -them would relapse. In fact, though these converts read their Bibles, -and rigorously conform to the observances of their new faith, they do -not appear to understand it, and the benefit of the change only shews -itself in their children, who have been brought up in the bosom of the -Christian Church, and are thus free from the memories of the Synagogue, -and not actuated by the interested motives which in some cases have -influenced their fathers. Impostors also have contributed to swell the -ranks of the converts, who have been excommunicated by the Rabbis, or -who wish to avail themselves of some of the advantages the Mission -offers, and who, after they have gained their points, return to their -former allegiance. Nor do the Missionaries meet with much success among -the Jewish residents in the city, or among those who come there to die; -their convictions and their interest are opposed to a change of faith. -Munk[899], himself a Jew, wrote thus a few years ago: "It is needless to -say that the attempts of Bishop Alexander, sent to Palestine under the -auspices of England and Prussia, have up to this time met with no -success;" and I can assert the same of Bishop Gobat. Truth compels me to -state that the Mission has not been successful at Jerusalem, and will -not be (in my opinion) if the wealthy Jews in Europe take care that the -affairs of their brethren in Jerusalem are properly managed. If the -conversion of the Jews be desired, I believe that more success will be -obtained among the larger numbers resident in Europe, than among the -little band of those more strongly attached to their ancient faith, who -are resident at Jerusalem. Since their efforts against Judaism have -failed, the Missionaries have attempted to make proselytes from the -other religious sects, but with little success. I do not wish to enter -fully into the subject, but simply state that the few converts, which -have been won from the other Christian communities, have to be -maintained at the expense of the Mission, or they would be soon lost; -and that the Mission has thus excited the jealousy of the other bodies, -and exposed itself to secret and open attacks. True it is that it -circulates copies of the Bible in all the languages spoken in the -country; but this is not a result of so much value as it appears at -first sight to be. Very many volumes indeed are given away, or purchased -(and that too at a very low price); but how many of them fall into the -hands of men who cannot or will not read, or are bought or taken away by -the monks, and destroyed? Many copies in different languages are thus -lost, which would be most valuable if distributed among more highly -civilized people. It may be doubted, too, whether it is wise to -circulate the entire volume, for often the reader comes upon some -passage which shocks his prejudices, and so the book is cast away in -disgust, because he is not yet able to bear a doctrine so different to -what he has always been taught. - -I conclude this subject by declaring that, in the above remarks, I have -not been actuated by any party spirit, but by the desire of speaking the -plain truth; and I confidently appeal to those who are acquainted with -the real state of affairs at Jerusalem, to bear me out in what I have -felt it my duty to say. - -A few words must also be devoted to the Turks and the Arabs. The former -govern the country; the latter endure their rule, and frequently rebel -against their authority. As slaves they thoroughly hate their masters, -still they are frequently reconciled by common interests, when there -seems a chance of conjointly extorting money from the Christian -communities. It should, however, be said, that there has been a great -change for the better since 1857, owing to the excellent rule of -Surraya Pasha; but still the Mohammedans are a hindrance and an evil in -the country. This is not so much due to any fault in individuals, as to -the bad administration of the Turkish Government at Constantinople. -Their appointments are often bestowed upon the highest bidder, and again -taken away when a higher appears; consequently the man who obtains a -governorship of a province, a judgeship, or any other post, has invested -a portion of his capital in the quest, and comes to his duties with -every intention of refilling his coffers as quickly as possible, since -he cannot reckon upon his stay in office. The subordinates too are -miserably paid, and have hardly a shilling for the necessaries of life; -consequently they have greedy palms, and so oppression, venality, -injustice, and all kinds of evils, are perpetrated. The religious -communities, however, do not suffer as they once did, owing to the zeal -and moderation of Surraya Pasha, the energy of the Consuls, and the -resistance which some of the Ecclesiastical Dignitaries have offered to -grasping cupidity and unjust demands. Among these, however, we cannot -reckon the Orientals, who still submit slavishly, and pay whatever is -demanded, as they are dependent upon the Sublime Porte, and so must -comply with the custom of the country. In conclusion, I may add, that -money is all-powerful with the Turks and Arabs in Jerusalem: gold calms -fanaticism, humbles the proud, renders justice uncertain and the police -blind, opens the prison-doors; in a word, in that city everything has -its price. The effect of this is that self-interest, as I have already -said, prevents any outbreak of fanaticism against the Christians or the -Jews, as the Mohammedans know full well that by this means they would be -greatly the losers. - -A few words must also be said about the proselytes among the different -Christian sects. The insane rivalries among these, far more than true -conviction, produce the greater number of converts from one party to -another. Of this there are many sad examples in Jerusalem. Whenever a -person (I do not refer to Europeans) thinks he is wronged by his own -community, he turns to another, and goes where he expects to find the -greatest advantages. No one can form an idea of this commerce in -religion who has not lived some time at Jerusalem and seen it for -himself. The most trivial matters are enough to make a man change his -creed; but happily the Missionaries and Convents are beginning to open -their eyes to the true state of the case, and do not so readily admit -the new converts into their church, without making previous enquiry into -their character, and the reasons which have produced the change. - -One of the things which excites commerce and brings a little money into -Jerusalem is the system of pilgrimages; and on these I purpose to say a -few words, without entering into details--an endless matter. The -European pilgrims are not so numerous as those from the East, and most -of them are poor, so that they bring more expense than profit to the -Franciscans, in whose convents they are lodged and fed, and by whom -they are conducted to the spots consecrated by the events of the Old and -New Testament. For this the monks ask nothing, though they accept any -gift that is offered; consequently the presents are unfrequent, and -seldom compensate for the expense that the donor has caused. Every -pilgrim is allowed to remain a month in the hospice at Jerusalem, -without any other recommendation than his passport and three days in the -others in different parts of Palestine, provided he be in good health. -When he is ill, according to his rank, he is nursed in the hospice, or -in the hospital, without anything to pay for doctors, druggists, or -attendants. It is plain, therefore, that this philanthropic undertaking -of the Franciscans is on too large a scale, and is a burden to the -convents, besides encouraging knaves and vagabonds, who go on -pilgrimages to pass away the time and live in idleness. A judicious -reform of this unlimited hospitality, and a careful scrutiny of the -papers of such as appear to be vagrants, would be a beneficial change. -Those who think that the pilgrims supply, in great part, the revenues -which enable the Fathers of the Holy Land to bear these heavy expenses, -should know that these come mainly from the different Christian nations, -with whose alms the churches, schools, and houses in which the pilgrims -are lodged, are maintained, and the poor and pilgrims supported. In -order to give an idea of the number of the pilgrims who have availed -themselves of the hospitality of the Franciscans during the last ten -years, I print the following extract from the Archives of the Convent of -S. Saviour: - - Year. | No. of Pilgrims | Length of their - | received. | stay (days). - | | - 1850 | 3611 | 16373 - 1851 | 3797 | 28580 - 1852 | 5696 | 20109 - 1853 | 5574 | 21364 - 1854 | 4620 | 18144 - 1855 | 6874 | 23522 - 1856 | 5470 | 21302 - 1857 | 7196 | 26280 - 1858 | 5809 | 25800 - 1859 | 7116 | 27792 - -Therefore in these ten years 55,763 pilgrims have been admitted into the -different convents in Palestine, who were supported during 229,346 days, -and their offerings cannot have been enough to entertain them for a -third part of their stay, so that the Friars cannot be said to derive -any advantage from them. - -The Latin Patriarchate, though its revenues are small in comparison with -the expenses it has to support, practises largely the virtue of -hospitality, and knows well how to succour the poor and destitute. - -The Protestant Mission relieves the poor, but does not offer to -travellers or pilgrims of its own faith the same advantage as the heads -of the Latin community, who bestow their benefits upon members of other -religious sects with as much care as upon their own. - -The Jewish community relieves its pilgrims from the moment of their -arrival, admitting them into houses appointed for that purpose; but if -the strangers are without means of their own, they have no great cause -to praise the welcome and hospitality they receive. - -The great mass of pilgrims to the Holy City comes, every year, from the -East, consisting of Russians, Greeks, Armenians, Syrians, Copts, -Abyssinians, Maronites, and Mohammedans themselves. The greater part of -these arrive at Jaffa in steam-boats or trading vessels, in which they -are stowed like merchandise, or like negroes in a slave-ship. Not only -men, but also entire families, women, girls, and boys, the aged, the -sick, and the maimed, make the long pilgrimage. These all expose -themselves to bad weather by sea and land, to great privations, and to -all kinds of exactions. They assemble in large companies, carrying their -provisions along with them, besides merchandize for driving bargains, -together with mats for bedding, and cooking vessels, which they load -upon camels, mules, and asses. They, however, in many cases walk, often -bare-foot, making short stages, sleeping in the open air, or crowded -together in a convent; enduring all these fatigues in order to worship -in the places which Christ has consecrated by His sufferings. When they -arrive at Jerusalem they betake themselves severally to the convents -belonging to their own community, and there, after certain formalities, -are distributed into lodgings; where, if Greeks, they are crowded -together in heaps; if Armenians, they are more comfortable; and if -Russians, they have every comfort. I will not weary the reader by -relating what the arrangements of the different communities are with -regard to their pilgrims; but will only describe those of the Greeks, as -they receive the greatest number of all. - -The Greek pilgrims of high rank are conducted into apartments assigned -to them, where they are well lodged and nourished, according to their -importance and dignity. They are not asked for money, but are given to -understand the wants of the community, and the needs of the Church; so -that they pay liberally for the hospitality they have received, and for -the churches and Sanctuaries they have visited. The common pilgrims, -after reposing two days in the great convent of S. Constantine, are -presented to the Patriarch, who receives an offering from each, under -the name of a contribution to the wants of the churches and convents of -his diocese. They are then conducted into the Church of the -Resurrection, where they pass a night in prayer, and make other -offerings to the Guardian of the Sepulchre for the maintenance of the -Sanctuaries. On being brought back into the convent, a plentiful repast -is provided for them, and their names are enrolled for the pilgrimages -to the Jordan and Nazareth, for which they pay a tax. They are then -conducted to their lodgings, or rather dens, in one of the numerous -convents in Jerusalem. On taking possession of these, they pay a sum -proportionate to the expense of their pilgrimage, amounting only to -eight or ten shillings. They must, however, make a present in addition, -to the church of the place, to those who have brought them, to the -Superior who receives them, and to the laics who assist to instal them -in their new quarters. When they are settled, they are taken to visit -the Tomb of the Virgin and all the churches of the convents, where they -pay. They make pilgrimages to Bethlehem, and all the other remarkable -places. They buy relics, ask for prayers and blessings, but always pay; -so that after being entertained at their own expense for four or five -months, and after having expended their resources, many are obliged to -sell their baggage to return to their native lands, taking back with -them the articles they have acquired with so much toil, all of which -however have received a blessing. That they are crowded together, and -may be said to occupy dens rather than lodgings, appears from the fact, -that sometimes eight persons are quartered in a room 16 or 18 feet -square, who have not unfrequently met for the first time, and are from -different countries; so that the reader may easily conceive the -inconveniences they suffer, and the maladies that are caused by the -straitened accommodation, especially when the winter happens to be more -rainy than usual. Notwithstanding all the observations that have been -made on this barbarous manner of lodging, they are always tenacious of -their ancient customs; but as Russia now provides well for her own -pilgrims, it is to be hoped that the Greeks, having more space, will -find some better manner of accommodating theirs. - -With the Armenians the pilgrims are better cared for in every respect; -but they have to pay for everything, as with the Greeks. - -The pilgrims of the different communities are on no better terms one -with another than the convents themselves; consequently quarrels break -out every year, in which, though life is not lost, bruises and blows of -sticks are plentifully bestowed. These contests are most frequent -between the Greeks and the Armenians; and the monks, instead of -attempting to allay the strife, rather excite it. - -I conclude by giving a list of the schools, hospitals, hospices, and -other establishments, belonging to the different communities in -Jerusalem. - -The Jews possess:-- - - 8 Schools (now perhaps more). - 1 Hospital, bearing Rothschild's name. - 2 Houses used as Hospices (now perhaps more). - 1 Large building for lodging the poor, called after Sir - M. Montefiore. - -The Mohammedans:-- - - 1 Military Hospital. - 1 Hospice, called after Saladin. - 1 Hospice of the Kusbeck Dervishes. - 1 Tekhiyeh el-Khasseki-Sultane, where the poor are supported. - A number of unimportant Schools. - Several ruined buildings in the _Haram es-Sherif_, in which the - poor are lodged. - The Lepers' Quarter. - -The Orthodox Greeks:-- - - 1 Seminary, called after the Holy Cross. - 2 Boys' Schools. - 1 Girls' School. - 1 Free Dispensary. - 18 Convents for accommodating Pilgrims. - A number of houses used for the same purpose, and many others for - the poor of the community. - 1 Printing Press. - -The Latins:-- - - 1 Patriarchal Seminary at Beit-jala. - 1 Boys' School, kept by the Friars Minor. - 2 Girls' Schools, one kept by the Sisters of S. Joseph; the other - by the Daughters of Sion. 1 Hospital of S. Louis. - 1 Hospice of the Casa Nuova. - 1 Hospice, called after the Flagellation. - 1 Hospice (the Austrian). - 1 Printing Press. - 1 Carpenter's shop. - 1 Forge. - Several houses for the poor of the community. - -The Armenians:-- - - 1 Seminary. - 1 Printing Press. - 1 Boys' School. - 1 Girls' School. - Magnificent Lodgings for Pilgrims. - Houses for the poor. - -Protestant Missions:-- - - 1 Boys' School. - 1 Girls' School. - 1 Girls' School, managed by the Prussian Deaconesses. - 1 Hospital under the same care. - 1 Hospice (Prussian). - 1 Hospital (English). - 1 Carpenters' School. - 1 Reading Room. - Some houses belonging to the Prussians. - -Russians:-- - - 1 Hospital. - Magnificent Lodgings for Pilgrims. - -Copts:-- - - 1 Hospice. - Houses for members of their community. - -The other communities have only their convents. - -In a population of only 20,453 inhabitants, where there are so many -schools and so many establishments, it is a great misfortune that no -progress is seen, and that there does not appear to be even the hope of -obtaining it for a long time to come. - - -FOOTNOTES: - -[898] To show the sums received by the reverend Franciscan Fathers of -the Holy Land, I think it will prove interesting if I give the following -account published in a pamphlet, _L'Eco Francescano_, printed at Madrid -in the year 1854. It is an authentic statement of the sums sent by the -Catholic states to the Holy Land between the years 1650 and 1850. I do -not add the details of the manner in which the amount was expended, -because I have not the necessary papers; but I do not exaggerate when I -say that those who have derived the greatest advantage from it have been -the ministers of the Ottoman Porte and their dependents. - - Spanish Reals. - Spain sent 146,362,280 - The Austrian States (Lombardy and - Venice are not distinct) 18,361,680 - France 2,499,420 - Naples 14,091,560 - Portugal 39,685,480 - Sicily 5,275,000 - Rome 2,205,660 - Tuscany 3,290,800 - Island of Sardinia 1,137,700 - Island of Malta 1,439,360 - Piedmont 5,578,120 - ----------- - Total 239,737,060 - -About 11,996,883 francs, nearly half a million sterling, of which not a -centime remains. - -[899] Palestine, p. 653. - - - - -NOTES. - - -NOTES ON CHAPTER I. - -NOTE I. See Eusebius, Hist. Eccles. IV. 2 sqq.; and his book on the -Martyrs of Palestine, chap. 11; Dio's resume of the history of the reign -of Hadrian; S. Jerome, Letter to Paulinus. - -NOTE II. Neby Samwil (Prophet Samuel) is a village on the N.W. of -Jerusalem, at a distance of about three hours from the city. From its -summit the Mediterranean and the Dead Sea are visible, and it commands a -magnificent view of Palestine to the East and West. This is not the -place to say anything of this site in its connexion with ancient -topography; I will merely state in passing that I dissent from the -opinion of Dr Robinson, who would identify the place with Mizpeh, the -frequent meeting-place of the Jews (Judges xx.; 1 Sam. vii. 6, 12, x. -17, 24); I believe it to be Ramah. For here is found the sepulchre of -the prophet Samuel, which I have myself seen, and from the earliest -times to this day the Israelites have constantly undertaken pilgrimages -in order to touch even the outer walls which enclose the tomb. -Accordingly I identify the Ramah mentioned in 1 Sam. xxv. 1 and xxviii. -3, and the Ramah of Josephus (Ant. VI. 13, Sec. 5), with the Arab -village of Neby Samwil. In my book on the tombs of Machpelah, Ephratah, -and Ramah, this point will be discussed at length. - -NOTE III. "He removed thence (from Gabaoth Saul), and came to a place -called Scopus; from whence the city began already to be seen, and a -plain view might be taken of the great temple." (Josephus, Wars, V. 2, -Sec. 3.) Titus himself, with 600 horsemen, had made a reconnoitring -expedition before he encamped at Scopus, during which he was intercepted -by a body of the Jews, and had a very narrow escape with his life. -Scopus was, however, the first place from which the main army obtained a -view of the city. - -NOTE IV. Above each of the gates of Jerusalem is inserted a stone -bearing the following inscription, which was translated for me from the -Arabic (Plate VII.): "The Sultan our sovereign, the most potent king, -and illustrious monarch, the lord of the nations, the king of the -Greeks, Arabs, and Persians, the Sultan Solyman (whose reign may God -render happy and immortal!) caused the building of these holy walls, in -the year 941;" of the Hejra, that is, corresponding to 1534 of the -common era. - -NOTE V. I subjoin the following note for the information of travellers, -that they may not have to pass the night outside the Jaffa gate, or on -Fridays lose valuable time. - -The gates of the city are all closed at sunset, the Jaffa gate a little -later, that being the one by which all foot-passengers enter the city, -and by which the inhabitants of the city go out for their walks. A -person reaching Jerusalem after all the gates are closed can procure -entrance by the Jaffa gate only, on obtaining a permit from the -governor. - -Every Friday at the hour of prayer (i.e. from noon to 1 P.M.) all the -gates of the city are closed, and it is difficult to obtain permission -to have them opened. This is done to allow time to the guards in charge -for their devotions. - -NOTE VI. The following are the names of the principal streets of -Jerusalem: - -_Harat bab-el-'Amud_ (the street of the Column-gate), crosses the city -from North to South; - -_Souk el-Kebir_ (the street of the Grand Bazaar), runs from West to -East, and is the same which in the time of the Crusades was called the -Street of David; - -_Harat el-Alam_ (the _Via Dolorosa_), starts from the gate of S. Mary, -passes to the barrack on Mount Moriah, then after bearing for a short -way to the South in the Tyropoeon valley, takes again a Westerly -direction as far as the Porta Judiciaria; - -_Harat el-Nacara_ (the street of the Christians), from the Holy -Sepulchre to the Latin Convent; - -_Harat el-Arman_ (the Armenian street), on the East of the Castle; - -_Harat el-Yahud_ (the Jews' street) is situated on the Eastern slope of -Mount Sion; - -_Harat bab Hotta_, the street that runs parallel to the Temple in the -central valley; - -And many others, which are little frequented, and are not worthy of -mention. - - -NOTES ON CHAPTER II. - -NOTE I. The drainage system of the city is divided into the Southern, -Northern, and Eastern sections, the division of the two former being -marked by the street called the Street of David. The keeping in repair -of the Southern section is the business of the local governor, and in -consideration thereof he receives a fixed annual sum from the Armenians -and the Jews, as inhabitants of that quarter. The Northern section as -far as the central valley is kept in repair by the Latin and Greek -convents, this district containing the quarters of their respective -nations. All the drainage on the Eastern side is under the sole charge -of the governor. The Arabs very seldom take the trouble to look after -their own sewers, but are zealous enough in enforcing the execution of -repairs which belong to the Christian communities; and since the latter -have them executed with an ill-will, and employ men of no experience for -the direction of the works, the drains are choked and flooded almost -every year, and are constantly being opened for repairs; a cause of no -slight annoyance in the city. It was during these works that, for eight -successive years, I had the opportunity of examining their formation, -their respective inclines, and directions, from which I found that they -all run into the central valley (the Tyropoeon Valley of my map), and -thence drain away to the S.E. outside the city, as far as the large -pool, now filled up, below the fountain of Siloam. - -The Christians have been obliged to accept the performance of these and -other foul works since the commencement of the supremacy of the Arabs -and Turks, who have submitted them to the most severe humiliations, and -to the most vile and oppressive tasks. - -NOTE II. On the subject of "cubits" and stadia, I transcribe the remarks -of M. Munk, in his book entitled "La Palestine," subjoining an account -of my own special observations on the subject. - -"The measures of length, called _Middoth_, are generally referred to the -hand and arm; the following are mentioned: (1) _Ecba_ (Jer. lii. 21), -_the finger_, i.e. the breadth of the finger or thumb; (2) _Tephach_ (1 -Kings vii. 26), or _tophach_ (Exodus xxv. 25), the _hand-breadth_, i.e. -the breadth of four fingers; (3) _Zereth_ (Exodus xxviii. 16), the -distance between the tips of the thumb and little finger, or the _span_; -(4) _Ammah_, the whole length of the fore-arm, or _cubit_. The relative -value of these measures is not indicated in any part of the Bible; to -fix it, we must consult Josephus and the Rabbinic traditions. In Exodus -xxv. 10, the dimensions of the ark are stated as follows; length 2-1/2 -cubits, breadth 1-1/2 cubits, height 1-1/2 cubits. Josephus, in the -Antiquities (III. 6, Sec. 5), represents the 2-1/2 cubits by 5 spans, and -for 1-1/2 cubits puts 3 spans: hence the span was the half of the cubit. -The Rabbins agree with Josephus; according to them the zereth is half a -cubit, referring to the mean cubit[A] which contained six hand-breadths, -each hand-breadth being equivalent to four fingers. These data may be -adhered to as exact, because the same proportions recur in other ancient -systems. Thus for example the Greeks had their cubits of 1-1/2 feet, -which made six hand-breadths or 24 fingers; Herodotus (II. 149) speaks -of a cubit of six hands in use amongst the Egyptians. We have then for -the relative values of the Hebrew measures the following table: - - _Ammah_ 1 - _Zereth_ 2 . 1 - _Tephach_ 6 . 3 . 1 - _Ecba_ 24 . 12 . 4 . 1 - -"The knowledge of the absolute value of any one of these would therefore -be sufficient to enable us to deduce those of the rest; but since on -this point we have no positive datum, in the writings either of Josephus -or of the Rabbins, we must be contented with an approximate estimate by -the aid of the Egyptian measures, which modern discoveries enable us to -fix with a certain precision. It is probable, besides, that the system -of the Hebrews was borrowed from that of the Egyptians. The Rabbins -determine their measures of length by the breadth of grains of barley -placed side by side--a custom which also prevails amongst the Arabs and -other Eastern tribes. It is easily seen that there is an uncertainty in -this method of measurement, owing to the unequal sizes of the -barley-grains. Maimonides, who has made minute calculations on the -subject, has found that the Ecba of the Bible is equal to the breadth of -seven average-sized grains of barley[B], which gives for the _Ammah_ -168. It is found by calculations sufficiently exact that the Arab cubit, -which is estimated at 144 grains of barley (that is, twenty-four fingers -of six grains each), when reduced to (Paris) lines and decimal parts of -lines, gives 213.050[C], which would give for the Hebrew _Ammah_ of 168 -barley-grains 248.564 (about 560 millimetres, or 22 inches). This result -is not thoroughly exact, but it will be seen that it does not differ -much from the probable value of the Egyptian measures;--at any rate it -may serve to establish the connexion which existed between the measures -of the Hebrews and those of the Egyptians. - -"But another question presents itself. The learned have attributed to -the Hebrews more than one kind of cubit[D], and while we reject mere -conjectures that have no solid basis, we must at any rate admit two -kinds; the one ancient or Mosaic, used for the measurement of sacred -things, the other modern, for common use. In the second book of -Chronicles (iii. 3), a 'cubit of the first measure,' or ancient cubit, -is spoken of as employed for the measurements of the Temple of -Solomon,--which implies the existence of a modern or common cubit. The -prophet Ezekiel (xl. 5, xliii. 13) in a vision in which he sees the -dimensions of the future temple, speaks evidently of a cubit containing -a hand-breadth more than the ordinary cubit, from which we may conclude -that between the two cubits there was a difference of a hand-breadth. -This difference the Talmud interprets in the sense, that the less -contained only five of the six hand-breadths of the greater[E]; but it -would be more consistent to give them the same ratio as the two -different Egyptian cubits had, i.e. that of 7 : 6, approximately. -Further, it is probable that each of the two was divided into six -hand-breadths; the Talmud speaks expressly of longer and shorter -hand-breadths[F]. The old Mosaic cubit was, without doubt, the royal -cubit of the Egyptians, and the different scales of this still extant, -together with the measurements of several Egyptian monuments, give for -its mean value about 525 millimetres[G] (or 20.67 inches). This result -appears less doubtful since it differs by only 35 millimetres from that -which was found by the very uncertain calculation of the breadth of the -barley-grains. Admitting this, we obtain for the value of the ordinary -cubit 450 millimetres or 433.5 (i.e. 17.71 or 17.07 inches), according -as we take the Egyptian ratio 7 : 6 or that of the Talmud 6 : 5. Each of -these two cubits was divided in the same proportion into two spans, six -hand-breadths, and twenty-four fingers. - -"With measures of length may be classed those of distance, or -road-measures; but the old Hebrews measured their roads in a very vague -and uncertain manner; and as we shall not need to refer to their -measurements in this book, I leave the discussion of them to turn to -those which are necessary. - -"In the Graeco-Roman period the Jews reckoned by stadia and miles; which -measures are found in the Old Testament and in the Talmud, as is also -the _Sabbath-day's journey_ (Acts i. 12), which was about 2000 cubits." - -Josephus also often quotes his measurements in stadia, so I will speak -of these. Three principal kinds of stadia are known; the Olympic, -equivalent to 184.95 metres (or 606.8 feet); the Pythian, equal to 147.6 -metres (or 484.3 feet), and lastly the Philaeterian, of 213 metres (or -698.8 feet). Through the whole of this work I have adopted the Olympic, -because in the measurements taken in Jerusalem itself, and its environs, -I have found that it alone corresponds with all the distances which are -cited in stadia by Josephus. That author, speaking of the Mount of -Olives, puts it at five stadia from the city, Mount Scopus at seven, the -monument of Absalom at two, Herodium at sixty, and lastly, Anathoth at -twenty stadia. All these distances I have verified, comparing them with -the Olympic stadium, and have always found them exact. Hence it is that -I employ this to measure the thirty-three stadia of the city's -circumference, and the thirty-nine of the lines drawn round it by Titus, -&c. For the sacred cubit of the first measure I have adopted the -Egyptian of 20.67 inches, and for the common cubit that of 17.71 inches, -as a result of the extended observation and study of measurements that I -have made on the old stones which are found in the Eastern wall of the -Temple, or of the Haram es-Sherif; with considerable difficulty I have -managed to measure many such which have suffered no mutilation, and have -found them to correspond with the ordinary cubits and their aliquot -parts of spans, hand-breadths, and digits. - -In case the reader should desire to examine more minutely the question -of Jewish measures, I refer him to the following works, to which the -numerals in the text above relate. - -[A] David Kimchi's Dictionary, s. vv. 'Zereth' and 'Tephach;' -Maimonides, _Comment. on Mishna_, part 5, tract _Middoth_, ch. 3, -Sec. 1, part 6; tract _Kilim_, ch. 17, Sec. 9. - -[B] Maimonides, _Mische Thorah_, or _Summary of the Talmud_, Bk. II. -sect. 3 (_Sepher Thorah_), ch. 9, Sec. 9. - -[C] Boeckh's Metrologische Untersuchungen, p. 247. Bertheau, ch. 1, p. -60. - -[D] Leusden, Philologus Hebraeomixtus, p. 211, where four kinds of cubits -are mentioned; the _common_, the _Sacred_, the _royal_, and the -_geometrical_. - -[E] Maimonides, Comment. on the Mishna, tract _Middoth_, III. 1; -_Mishna_, tract _Ketim_; the commentaries of Raschi and Kimchi on Ezek. -xl. 5. - -[F] Babylonish Talmud, tract _Succa_, fol. 7, a. Compare Buxtorf, -Lexicon Talmudicum, coll. 900 and 2370. - -[G] Boeckh finds 524.587 millimetres, nearly 232.55 lines. See Bertheau, -c. 1, p. 83. - -NOTE III. The Armenians, in the various new edifices that they have -built on Mount Sion, have found remains of walls, stones, reservoirs and -cisterns of the most remote antiquity, generally at a depth of eighteen -or even twenty feet below the surface, sometimes more. Before my arrival -in Jerusalem, whilst digging for foundations they found a large quantity -of small blocks of limestone of five and seven inches cube, dressed on -every side, and so many in number that they employed them to build high -and long unmortared walls, which to this day surround their property on -the south inside the city. These stones were found collected together in -one place, and were not scattered about: it is not impossible that they -had been prepared to line the walls of a large pool. I say this because -stones of this shape are now found in the pool of Bethesda, but in this -reservoir they are wrought with more accuracy and uniformity. In my own -time, in 1859, they discovered a pool, cut in the solid rock, which -shewed however that the work had not been completed; it was 18 feet -long, 10 broad, and 10 deep. In its neighbourhood were seen traces of -conduits that they had begun to cut out in the rock. - -On the same site I have examined a wall made of blocks of stone roughly -squared, combined with others of a polygonal form; the size of the -stones for the most part being from two to four cubic feet, and all the -interstices between them on the two faces and inside being filled with -small stones well fitted together without any trace of cement. At an -angle where the stones were larger I observed that they were secured -together by means of tenons and mortises of parallelepipedal form cut in -the stone itself. The wall was about 5-1/2 feet broad by 6 feet high; -but it was evident that it must have been mutilated at some time. I -assign it to the age of the Jebusites. - -Another wall, six feet broad, was composed of large irregular blocks of -stone of from four to eight cubic feet. In it could be distinguished -four rows placed one above the other, whose stones were fastened by -clamps of iron or of stone, and in each was discernible more or less -some trace of rude rustic work: in the interstices of the interior were -inserted small stones well packed together without cement, so that the -internal building of the wall formed a solid mass. To their discredit -the Armenians do not trouble themselves about antiquities, and -consequently take no pains to preserve such ancient remains as they meet -with, but destroy or hide them, or avail themselves of the materials for -the building of new walls. - -NOTE IV. In the environs of the city, with the exception of the north -and north-west, are frequently found walls, conduits, and scattered -stones of large size, rusticated or not, and with or without marks of -clamps; but they have been constantly broken up because of the want of -will, and also of mechanical means, to make the most of them, or to -remove them. Owing to this vandalism, the most precious remains of -antiquity are daily disappearing from the soil of Jerusalem. Not seldom -trunks of columns, capitals, pedestals, have been found, but some rude -clown has broken them up, to be able the more easily to transport the -fragments into the city. Sometimes old walls have been broken up by -blasting, without any one's taking the trouble to preserve them, or even -to delay their destruction, so as to allow of some examination of them. -These cases are repeated daily on Mount Sion, on the east of the Mount -of Olives, and on the western side of the valley of Kidron; but never in -any part where it is not known from human memory, or received tradition, -that there have been found remains of Jewish buildings, or large stones -scattered over the soil. - -On the north and north-west I have made various excavations in order to -recover, if possible, one of the Herodian stones of twenty cubits -(Josephus, Jewish War, V. 4, Sec. 2); but after repeated and careful -research I have failed to find a single one, I do not say of twenty -cubits, but even of four: nothing is found there but rock and small -unshapen stones, which do not however give one the idea that they have -ever formed part of blocks of larger dimensions. - -NOTE V. To facilitate the reader's understanding of the allusions in the -course of the work, it is necessary that I should indicate the titles by -which I characterise the different walls and stones which are found at -Jerusalem. - -_Jebusite Walls_. This name and age I assign to those that are built of -unsquared stones of different sizes, some of which are fastened together -by tenon and mortise; the interstices being filled with small stones. -(See Note III.) - -_Walls of David_. By this name I indicate those walls whose stones are -of considerable size and rudely squared, and which present some trace of -irregular rustic-work, and are always fastened by tenons of stone or -clamps of iron. - -_Walls of Solomon_. (See Plate X.) Walls of Solomon I call those that -are composed of large blocks of stone, that have not all the same -breadth and height, and whose rude rustic-work, about two inches in -relief, is surrounded by a flat band of from two inches to two inches -and a half. They are fastened together by tenons and mortises in the -stone itself, or by cubical pieces inlaid, of a different stone from the -block itself, and contain no cement. The various layers of stone one -above the other are in one vertical plane, and diminish in thickness the -higher they rise; but the vertical joinings of the stones of any layer -do not correspond with any regularity with those of a higher or lower -layer (Fig. 1): this kind is especially found in the basement of the -east wall of the Haram. - -By the _wall of Nehemiah_ I mean that which presents many blocks of the -same character with those of the walls of Solomon; but these are joined -together in an irregular manner, that is to say, the several layers are -not formed of stones of equal heights, some stones appear to be turned -upside down, in some the rustic-work is mutilated in places, many are -placed aslant, and lastly, not a few shew the holes where the clamps -have been (that is, the side is put in front); and besides, there are -mixed with these small stones which appear with a portion of -rustication, which shews that the large stones of the old wall have been -broken in order to place them more carefully in their position. I assign -them to Nehemiah, because the Bible informs us (Neh. iv. 17, 18, vi. -15), that he conducted the work in the midst of alarms, the workmen -being all armed, so as to render the walls fit to sustain the assaults -with which their enemies were threatening them every moment. Accordingly -to this they owe the irregularity with which they were formed (Fig. 2). -What I have described may be observed in the east wall of the Haram -towards the southern end. - -_Herodian walls_ I judge to be those which present large squared blocks, -polished with accurate exactness, and joined together without cement, -but with the most delicate care: they have a rustication, much wrought, -standing two or three lines in relief, and surrounded by a band of about -an inch and a half wide. In these walls the sizes of the stones diminish -regularly as they rise higher from the ground, and the vertical joinings -of alternate layers correspond exactly throughout, and are at the middle -points of the stones which separate the two layers; lastly, every layer -is an inch and a half in rear of the preceding. Walls of this kind are -found at the S.E. corner of the Haram, and in its western enclosure -towards the south (Fig. 3). - -_The Roman walls_ are formed of fine squared stones, well wrought, -joined by means of cement. They may be seen on the south and at the -south-west corner of the Haram (Fig. 4). - -The walls built by the Crusaders, or by the old Arabs (Saracenic work), -reveal themselves at once by the economical proportion of the stones, by -the excellent way in which they are joined, and sometimes by their being -formed of rows of different colours, red, white, and black (Fig. 5). - -The Arab walls of the present day are distinguished by their miserable -appearance. - -NOTE VI. At the first entry of Omar into the city he was conducted by -the Patriarch Sophronius to visit the Holy Sepulchre. Whilst he was -lingering there, mid-day struck, whereupon the Khalif went out to -perform his devotions, and retired to the place where afterwards the -little mosque was built;--a remarkable instance of moderation on the -part of the Khalif, seeing that, if he had prayed in the Christian -church, it would by Mohammedan law have been converted into a mosque. It -is owing to this that the sons of Islam have left it to the Christian -worship. The adjoining minaret was built by the Mohammedans at the -expense of the Christians in the 13th century. - -NOTE VII. M. Munk, in his book on Palestine writes, "We enumerate here -the gates of Jerusalem in their actual order, as ascertained, if not -with certainty, at any rate with probable accuracy, starting from the -North-west and passing thence to the West, South and East, so as to make -the circuit of the walls. - -(1) The gate called the _ancient_ or _first gate_ on the North-east; (2) -the _gate of Ephraim_, or of _Benjamin_, on the North, leading to the -allotments of these two tribes; (3) the _Corner-gate_ on the North-west, -at a distance of 400 cubits from the preceding; (4) the _Valley-gate_, -on the West, leading probably to the _valley of Gihon_, and the -dragon-well (Neh. ii. 13); (5) the _Dung-gate_ on the South-west, 1000 -cubits from the preceding (Ibid. iii. 13), apparently the same which was -afterwards called the _gate of the Essenes_; (6) the _Fountain-gate_ on -the South-east, so called from the fountain of Siloam (?), possibly the -same which Jeremiah (xix. 2) calls _Harsith_ (_Pottery-gate_), and which -led to the valley of Hinnom. On the South side, where Mount Sion is -inaccessible, there were probably no gates. There remain still five -gates, which must have been on the East or South-east of the Temple in -the following order from South to North; (7) the _Water-gate_; (8) the -_Horse-gate_; (9) the _gate of the Review_ or _numbering_ (vulg. Porta -Judicialis, Neh. iii. 31); (10) the _Sheep-gate_; (11) the -_Fish-gate_;--the _Prison-gate_ (Neh. xii. 39) appears to have been one -of the gates of the Temple." - -NOTE VIII. The present castle is called by some the Castle of the -Pisans; and Adrichomius says that it was built by them when the Latins -were the masters of Jerusalem. His words are, "The castle of the Pisans, -surrounded by broad fosses, and by towers, was built on the West side of -the city by the Christians of Pisa in Italy, at the time when they -occupied the Holy Land. Where the Pisans formerly were, the Saracens, -and at the present time the Turks, levy a sacrilegious tribute on the -pilgrims to the Holy Land." - -I cannot attribute to the Pisans the entire building of the edifice, but -I grant that they may have restored it in great part. It is certain that -Solyman repaired this castle in the year 1534; the inscriptions above -the entrance tell us thus much. - -NOTE IX. Traditions in the East are very unwavering, a fact recognised -by all. For instance, we are told that the Judgment Hall was near to -the Temple, on the west side; to this day the Mohammedan tribunal is -there, and the Arabs say that their judges sit in the very Judgment Hall -not only of the Crusaders but of Solomon. I grant that the walls of the -building do not indicate that it is of the age of Solomon, but I shall -discuss this building more in detail hereafter. - -NOTE X. _Description of Jerusalem by Tacitus_ (_H._ V. 10-12). - -"Accordingly, as we have said, he (Titus) pitched his camp before the -walls of Jerusalem, and made a display of his forces, having drawn them -up in battle array. The Jews formed their line close under the walls, -where, if success attended them, they could venture further out, and at -the same time had a place of shelter ready, in case they should be -driven back. - -"The cavalry were sent against them together with the light-armed -auxiliaries, and fought with doubtful issue; but in time the enemy gave -way, and on the following days engaged in frequent skirmishings before -the gates, till by their repeated losses they were driven within the -walls. The Romans then prepared to carry the place by assault, thinking -it unworthy of them to wait till the enemy should be starved out, and -volunteered for the dangerous duty of the storming party, some from real -valour, many from a reckless bravery and coveting its special rewards. -Titus himself had Rome with its wealth and pleasures before his eyes, -which seemed to be retarded should not Jerusalem fall at once. But the -city, naturally difficult of access, was further strengthened by works -and defences which would prove sufficient protection even on level -ground. For two hills, which rise to a considerable elevation, were -enclosed by walls scientifically made to slant or bend inwards, in order -that the flank of a besieging party might be exposed to fire. The edge -of the rock breaks off in precipices, and the towers were built to the -height of 60 feet, where the form of the mountain added to the height, -and to a height of 120 in the lower ground, presenting a wonderful -appearance, and at a distance seemingly of equal height. There was a -second line of walls inside surrounding the king's palace, and the -conspicuous roof of the Antonian tower, so named by Herod in compliment -to Marcus Antonius. - -"The Temple was a sort of citadel with walls of its own, superior to the -rest in construction and finish; the porticoes by which the circuit of -the building was made, forming themselves an excellent rampart. It -contains a spring of never-failing water, and large reservoirs hollowed -out under the soil, and pools and cisterns for storing the rain-water. -Its builders had foreseen that frequent wars must arise from the -singularity of their customs, and so had provided everything even to -meet a long siege; and when the city was taken by Pompeius, their fears -and experiences had taught them most of the necessary precautions. And -availing themselves of the greed of the reign of Claudius, they -purchased the right of fortifying the town, and built walls in time of -peace, in apparent anticipation of war--a medley population, its numbers -swollen by the disasters of other cities; for all the most headstrong -men had taken refuge there, and therefore they were more riotous in -their behaviour. They had three leaders, and three armies. The outermost -and widest line of walls was defended by Simon, the middle of the city -by John, the Temple by Eleazar. John and Simon had the largest number of -troops, and the most efficiently armed, while Eleazar had the strongest -position: but internecine fighting, treachery, and incendiarism were -rife amongst them, and a great quantity of corn was burnt. In time John -having sent a detachment of soldiers to murder Eleazar and his band, -under plea of offering sacrifice, made himself master of the Temple. In -this way the city split up into two factions, till on the approach of -the Romans harmony was produced by the war from without." - -NOTE XI. _THE PILGRIM OF BORDEAUX'S DESCRIPTION OF JERUSALEM._ - -"There are in Jerusalem two large pools by the side of the Temple; to -wit, one on the right, and another on the left, which Solomon made. -Inside the city there be two pools with five porticoes, which are called -Bethsaida: there men with diseases of many years' standing were healed. -The water of these pools is somewhat turbid and of a reddish hue. There -likewise is a crypt, where Solomon was wont to torture the unclean -spirits. There is the corner of a very high tower, whither the Lord went -up, and he that tempted said unto Him, (Cast thyself down from hence); -and the Lord said unto him, Thou shalt not tempt the Lord thy God, but -Him only shalt thou serve. There is also the great corner-stone of which -it was said, The stone which the builders rejected. Also at the head of -the corner and under the battlements of the tower itself are several -chambers on the spot where Solomon had his palace. There too standeth -the chamber in the which he sat, and described Wisdom, which chamber is -roofed by one single stone. There are two large reservoirs for the -subterraneous water, and pools built with great labour. And in the -building itself where the Temple was, which Solomon built, you would say -that the blood of Zacharias on the marble before the altar had been shed -this very day; and the marks of the nails of the soldiers who slew him -are so plainly seen, that you would think they had been planted on wax -over the whole area. Also there be there two statues of Hadrian, and not -far from the statues is a stone much worn, to which the Jews come every -year, and anoint it, and bemoan themselves with sighs and rend their -garments, and so depart. There is also the house of Hezekiah, king of -Judah. Also as you go out into Jerusalem to go up mount Sion, below you -on the left in the valley hard by the wall is a pool which is called -Siloam. It has four porches, and another large pool without. Its spring -runs for six days and nights, but on the seventh is an entire Sabbath, -and it runs not by night nor by day. Continuing along the same road up -mount Sion, you may see the place where was the house of Caiaphas the -priest, and to this time the column still remains where they scourged -Jesus. Within the walls of Sion is seen the place where David had his -palace, and of seven synagogues which were there one only remains; the -rest are ploughed and sown over, as the prophet Esaias foretold. Then to -proceed outside the wall, as you go from Sion to the Neapolitan gate, on -the right in the valley below are the walls where was once the palace of -Pontius Pilate; there our Lord had hearing before He suffered. On the -left is the hill of Golgotha, where the Lord was crucified. About a -stone's throw thence is the crypt where His body was laid, and on the -third day He rose again: on this spot Constantine the Emperor has -erected lately a basilica, or church, of wondrous beauty, having at the -side reservoirs from which water is drawn, and behind it a bath where -children are baptized. - -"Also at Jerusalem, as you go to the Eastern gate, to climb the slope of -the Mount of Olives, on the left is the valley, called the Valley of -Jehoshaphat, where are the vines, and the stone where Judas Iscariot -betrayed Christ; while on the right is the palm-tree from which the -children plucked the boughs, as Christ entered the city, and strewed -them in the way before Him. Not far thence, about a stone's throw, are -two monumental columns of wondrous beauty: on one was placed the statue -of the prophet Isaiah, a true monolith, and on the other Hezekiah, the -king of the Jews. Thence you ascend the Mount of Olives, where the Lord -taught His Apostles before His Passion. There a basilica was built by -order of Constantine. Not far thence is the mountain whither the Lord -went out to pray, when He took with Him Peter and John, and there -appeared unto them Moses and Elias. Eastward thence at 1500 paces is a -village called Bethany, in which is a crypt where Lazarus was laid, whom -the Lord raised to life." - -NOTE XII. _Description of Jerusalem during the occupation of the Franks, -extracted from the Universal Geography of Edrisi, who wrote at the -middle of the 12th century._ - -"JERUSALEM. - -"_Beit el-Mocaddas_ (Jerusalem) is an illustrious and ancient city, full -of ancient monuments. It bears the name of Ilia (_Aelia Capitolina_). -Situated on a mountain easy of access on every side," (Edrisi was -mistaken, or has been mistranslated), "it extends from West to East. On -the West is the gate called _El-Mihrab_; beneath is the cupola of David -(to whom God be merciful): on the East the gate called the Gate of -Mercy, which is generally shut, being opened only on the Feast of Palms; -to the South the gate of _Seihun_ (Sion); on the North the gate called -the Gate of _'Amud el-Ghorab_. Starting from the western gate, or gate -of _El-Mihrab_, you go in an easterly direction by a broad street, till -you come to the great Church of the Resurrection, called by Mohammedans -_Comame_. This church is the object of the pilgrimage of Christians from -all countries of the East and the West. Entering by the western door you -find yourself under a cupola which covers the whole enclosure, and which -is one of the most remarkable sights in the world. The church itself is -beneath this door, and it is not possible to go down into the lower part -of the building on this side; the descent is made on the north side by a -door which opens at the top of a long staircase of thirty steps, which -door is called _Bab Sitti Mariam_. At the entrance of the church the -spectator finds the Holy Sepulchre, a building of considerable size, -with two doors, and surmounted by a cupola of very solid construction, -built with admirable skill; of these two doors one, on the north side, -faces the door of S. Mary, the other faces the South, and is called _Bab -es-Salubie_ (door of the Crucifixion): on this side is the peristyle of -the church, in front of which, towards the east, is another church of -considerable size and note, where the Christians celebrate their holy -offices and make their prayers and oblations. - -"On the east of this church, by a gentle descent, you come to the prison -where the Lord Messiah was confined, and to the place where he was -crucified. The large dome has a circular opening to the sky, and all -round it and in the interior are seen pictures representing the -Prophets, the Lord Messiah, S. Mary his mother, and S. John Baptist. -Among the lamps which are hung above the Holy Sepulchre are -distinguished three which are of gold and are placed in a particular -spot. If you leave the principal church, and turn your steps eastward, -you will come to the sacred dwelling, which was built by Solomon the son -of David, and was a resort of pilgrims in the time of the greatness of -the Jews. This temple was subsequently taken from them, and they were -driven out of it upon the arrival of the Mohammedans. Under the Moslem -supremacy it was enlarged, and is (at this day) the large mosque known -to Mohammedans under the name of _Mesjid el-Aksa_. There is none in the -world which equals it in size, if you except the great mosque of Cordova -in Andalusia: for, as I am told, the roof of that mosque is larger than -that of _Mesjid el-Aksa_. To proceed, the area of this latter forms a -parallelogram whose length is two hundred fathoms (_ba'a_) and its -breadth a hundred and eighty. The half of this space, which is near to -the _Mihrab_, is covered by a roof (or rather by a dome) of stone -supported by several rows of columns, the rest being open to the sky. In -the centre of the building is a large dome, known as the _Dome of the -Rock_: it has been ornamented with arabesques in gold, and with other -beautiful works, by the care of different Moslem Khalifs. Beneath this -is the falling stone. This stone is of a quadrangular form like a -shield, one of its extremities rising above the ground to the height of -about half a fathom, the other being close to the ground; it is nearly -cubical, and its breadth nearly equal to its length, that is to say, -about ten cubits (_Zira'a_). Beneath is a cavern, or a dark recess, ten -cubits long by five wide, whose height is about six feet. It is entered -only by torch-light. The building contains four doors; opposite the -western is seen the altar on which the children of Israel offered their -sacrifices; near the eastern door is the church called the Holy of -Holies, an elegant building; on the south is a chapel which was used by -the Mohammedans, but the Christians made themselves masters of it by -main force, and it has remained in their power up to the time of the -present work (1154 A.D.). They have converted this chapel into a -convent, where reside certain members of the order of the Templars, i.e. -of the Servants of the House of God. Lastly, the northern door faces a -garden well planted with different kinds of trees, and surrounded by -columns of marble carved with much skill. At the end of the garden is a -refectory for the priests, and for those who are preparing to enter the -religious orders. - -"Leaving this place of worship, and turning eastward, you will come to -the _Gate of Mercy_, shut, as we have just said, but near it is another -gate by which you can go in or out, and which is called _Bab el-Asbat_ -(or of the tribes of Israel). Within bow-shot from the latter is a very -large and very beautiful church under the patronage of S. Mary, known by -the name of _Djesmanie_; here is the tomb (of the Virgin) in sight of -the Mount of Olives, about a mile distant from _Bab el-Asbat_. On the -road by which this mountain is ascended is seen another church, large -and solidly built, which is called the church of the _Pater Noster_; and -on the top is a large church where men and women live a cloister life, -awaiting thus the reward of heaven. On the south-east of the mountain is -the tomb of Lazarus, who was raised to life by the Lord Messiah; and two -miles from Mount Olivet, the village from which was brought the ass on -which the Lord rode on his entry into Jerusalem; this village is now -deserted and in ruins. - -"It is on leaving the tomb of Lazarus that the road begins which leads -to the Jordan, which river is distant a day's journey from the Holy -City. Before arriving at its banks you will pass the city of _Erikha_ -(Jericho), three miles distant from the river. Near the Jordan is a -large church under the patronage of S. John Baptist, served by Greek -monks. The Jordan flows out of the lake of Tiberias, and empties its -waters into the lake of Sodom and Gomorrah, cities which the Most High -drowned as a punishment for the wickedness of their inhabitants. To the -south of this river is an immense desert. - -"As regards the southern side of Jerusalem: leaving the city by the gate -of Sion, you find, at the distance of a stone's throw, the Church of -Sion, a beautiful church, and fortified, where is seen the chamber in -which the Lord Messiah did eat with His disciples, and also the table, -which exists to this day, and is to be seen on Thursdays. From the gate -of Sion you descend into a ravine well known under the name of the -_Valley of Gehenna_ (Hinnom), near which is the Church of S. Peter. In -this ravine is the fountain of _Selwan_ (Siloam), where the Lord Messiah -gave sight to a blind man, who had not before known the light of day. To -the south of this spring is the field which was bought by the Messiah -for the burial of strangers. Not far from it are numerous dwellings cut -out in the rock, and occupied by pious hermits." - -NOTE XIII. I may mention here that one day I caused a trumpet to be -played on Gihon, near the present Pool of Mamillah, and the site of the -Russian buildings, and I heard it distinctly, while standing myself by -the Fountain of Rogel, that is by the well situated at the S.E. -extremity of the Valley of Siloam, the _Bir Eyub_ (Well of Joab) of the -Arabs; while, on changing the position of the player, by sending him -more to the N.W., I heard nothing. Accordingly I can confirm in every -respect the Bible account (1 Kings i. 41), that Adonijah heard the -festive cries of the people and the sound of the trumpets which welcomed -the coronation of Solomon. - - -NOTES TO CHAPTER III. - -NOTE I. The Haram es-Sherif cannot be visited without the permission of -the Pasha, the Governor of the city, which, though almost always -granted, may be delayed for some days. The Pasha himself never gives -permission to enter the sacred enclosure without having first submitted -the question to the Council of the Effendis, who always give their -consent, not of their own free will, but through fear of displeasing him -who makes the request. When all this is arranged, it rests with the -keeper of the Haram to appoint the time for the visit: the time fixed is -always in the morning, because the place is then almost deserted, and -visitors can converse without fear of disturbing the devotion of the -worshippers. Travellers must apply for the permission in question, -through their respective consulates, and every visitor has to pay a fee -to the keeper and to the escort of police who accompany him, to protect -him from any insult, which at times would be sure to arise on the part -of some bigoted Mohammedan. The payment is fixed by custom at twenty -francs. When the visitors do not pay it themselves, the matter is -arranged by their respective consuls. The Europeans who are admitted to -see the Haram must provide themselves with broad Turkish slippers, or -with two pieces of canvas, to cover their ordinary boots; without this -precaution, they would meet with every opposition to their being -admitted to the places of greater sanctity: they should be careful to -carry no cigars with them, and to conduct themselves reverently, because -else some complaint might be lodged against them, in which case those -who came after them might, through their fault, be refused admission to -the ancient summit of Moriah. I speak from experience. - -NOTE II. I said that by patience, perseverance, and no slight personal -sacrifice, I managed to obtain a knowledge of the Haram, because, though -I had the required permission, the strong protection of the Pasha, the -support of the Effendi, and Mohammedan sympathy, I was nevertheless -obliged to be continually satisfying the greed of my escort, and still -more of the keeper of the Haram, and, I may add, of his children, with -both money and presents. I was obliged also to see them constantly in my -apartments, enduring their company apparently unmoved, although they -threatened every moment to plunder my goods and eat me up with the -little that I possessed. Besides this, it was no rare thing for me to -arrange with the superintendent of the Haram to begin a work, and then -have to wait several months before I could finish it, simply owing to -the whim of a Mohammedan. Appeal to the Pasha was out of the question, -because any violent measure that he might in such case have taken would -have resulted in a thousand new difficulties thrown in my way, and I -should never have succeeded in my design. - -NOTE III. There is an unvarying tradition amongst the Arabs that the -Holy Rock, _Sakharah_, covered by the dome of the mosque, is the same -stone on which slept Israil-Ullah, that is, the patriarch Jacob, and on -which he had the vision of the ladder. Omar himself, when he made his -triumphant entry into Jerusalem, caused a search to be made for it, -inquiring where the stone was that had served for Jacob's pillow. They -agree, moreover, in recognizing in it the ancient foundation of the -Temple of Solomon. - -NOTE IV. The Arabs maintain the belief, that under the Sakharah is a -large well (which they call _Bir-el-Arruah_, i.e. _well of souls_) which -communicates with the nether world; and there are a thousand Eastern -legends relating to it. It may be gathered from all these legends that -there is a well of considerable depth, divided into two parts. In the -lower part exists the universal fountain, which furnishes water to the -whole world, and near it stand the mothers of Jesus and Mohammed working -garments for the souls of the righteous. With respect to the two -cisterns on the north of the mosque they relate, that in ancient times -they served as a receptacle for the drainage, but that subsequently they -were cleansed, and that yet, notwithstanding, the waters are not good, -nor fit to drink. I shall shew further on for what purposes these -ancient cisterns of Araunah's threshing-floor were used in the service -of the different Jewish temples. - -NOTE V. Those who desire more detailed accounts may consult in -particular the following works: Jacob Jehuda Leone, de Templo -Hierosolymitano (in Hebrew), Amsterdam, 1650, in 4to; translated into -Latin by Saubert, Helmstad, 1665; the same work in Dutch (Afbeeldinge -van den Tempel Salomonis), by the Author, Amsterdam, 1679. This author -has confused together in the same description the Temple of Solomon and -that of Herod. Also Bernard Lami, de Tabernaculo Foederis, de Sancta -Civitate Jerusalem, et de Templo ejus, Paris, 1720, in folio; A. Hirt, -der Tempel Salomons, Berlin, 1809, in 4to; Meyer, der Tempel Salomons, -Berlin, 1830, in 8vo; Winer, Realwoerterbuch, Tom. II. pp. 661-670. - -NOTE VI. The _bath_, according to Josephus, is equivalent to an Attic -_metretes_, or 72 _xestae_ (sextarii), or about 8 gallons, 5 pints; (see -Josephus, Antiqq. viii. 2, Sec. 9). - -NOTE VII. "According to the prophet Jeremiah (xxv. 11)," writes M. Munk -(Palestine, p. 461), "the Babylonish captivity was to last 70 years. To -obtain this number they make the time fixed by the prophet to date from -the year 606, which, according to Jewish writers, is the first of the -reign of Nebuchadnezzar; and indeed it was in this same year that -Jeremiah spoke for the first time of the 70 years during which the -Babylonish government was to last (xxv. 12), a statement which he -repeats in the year 599, on the occasion of the banishment of Jehoiachin -(xxix. 10). But in the first year of Nebuchadnezzar there was no idea of -a Babylonish captivity." - -NOTE VIII. See Josephus, Antiqq. XV. 11, Sec. 1. According to the printed -text, the Temple of Zerubbabel wanted 60 cubits of the height of the -Temple of Solomon, which is unintelligible. The corrected reading of -several Manuscripts, which have "_seven_ cubits," is to be preferred. -(Cf. Havercamp's edition, Vol. I. p. 778, Note 7.) - -NOTE IX. The two descriptions of Josephus leave much to be desired, and -the numbers appear in many instances to have been corrupted by the -copyists. They may be supplemented by a third, and more detailed -description, furnished by the _Mishna_, part 5, tract. _Middoth_ -(published separately, with a Latin translation and notes, by -L'empereur, Leyden, 1630, in 4to.). Amongst modern writers the following -may be consulted: Lightfoot, _Descriptio Templi Hierosolymitani_, in -his works, Vol I. pp. 549 and following (chiefly after the Mishna); -Hirt, in the Historical and Philological Memoirs of the Berlin Academy -for the Years 1816 and 1817 (published in 1819). Hirt has exclusively -followed Josephus--his plan has several essential defects; M. Munk has -followed that of Wette (Archaeologie, Sec. 238), which is much more -exact, and has combined the accounts of Josephus and the Mishna. - -NOTE X. According to tradition the folding-doors of the Nicanor gate, -which were of Corinthian bronze, had been brought from Alexandria by one -Nicanor, and miraculously saved from a shipwreck. This gate alone was of -bronze; the others were of wood, and plated with gold and silver. See -Mishna, part 2, tract. Yoma, chap. 3, Sec. 10, and the Comments of -Maimonides; Babylonish Talmud, the same treatise, fol. 38. Compare -Josephus' Wars, V. 5, Sec. 3. - -NOTE XI. In the tower _Baris_ were kept the pontifical robes, which were -worn by the High Priest on solemn days: a practice established by the -Asmonean princes, who united in their own persons the chief civil and -religious authority. - -NOTE XII. See Jeremiah lii. 12. According to Rabbinical tradition the -burning of the Temple of Solomon began on the ninth of the month Ab in -the evening; and it was moreover on the ninth of Ab that the Romans -burnt the third temple; accordingly, on this day the Jews, with the -exception of the Karaites, keep the anniversary of the destruction of -Jerusalem. Josephus, however (Wars, VI. 4, Sec. 5), agreeing therein with -the book of Jeremiah, expressly mentions the tenth day of the month Lous -or Ab. Possibly the date given by the Rabbins, as concerns the third -temple, may have been the result of a different calculation of new moons -from that of Josephus. - -NOTE XIII. From the time of Hadrian, the Jews obtained, for a money -payment, permission to visit Jerusalem once in the year, there to bewail -their humiliation. See Euseb. Hist. Eccles. IV. 6. This state of things -lasted till the time of S. Jerome: the following words are from his -Commentary on Zephaniah, chap. i. "Even to the present day they are -forbidden to enter Jerusalem, and buy the permission to weep over the -ruins of their city." - -NOTE XIV. See Gibbon, chap. 23. The silence which is observed on this -event by S. Jerome, who arrived in Palestine some years afterwards, is, -according to Gibbon, a proof that the pretended miracle had made far -less sensation on the spot than at a distance. - -See also Ammian. Marcell. Hist. lib. 23, c. 1; Rufinus, Theodoret, -Socrates, and Sozomen, in their respective histories; the fathers of the -Church, who were contemporary with the event, admit the miracle, as S. -Cyril, bishop of Jerusalem. See Clinton, Fasti Rom. A.D. 363. - -NOTE XV. Some maintain that the building of this basilica is to be -attributed to S. Helena; but this opinion is not admissible, for -Eusebius who wrote the life of Constantine, makes no mention of it. -There are stronger reasons for attributing it to Justinian, according to -the account transmitted to us by Procopius, his panegyrist, who gives -minute details of its building. See Procopius, de Aedif. Justin. lib. IV. -cap. 6. - -NOTE XVI. Omar found the old site of the threshing-floor of Araunah full -of impurities, and was the first to set the example of cleansing it; the -followers of Islam followed his example, and it was then that the Khalif -determined upon building a sumptuous mosque over the holy rock. - -NOTE XVII. William of Tyre, Book I. Chap. 2. "There are, moreover, in -the same temple-building, within and without, very old monuments in -mosaic work, and in the Arabic character, which are believed to be of -that date, in which the author of the work, and the expense of it, and -the times at which the work was begun and finished, are evidently set -forth:" he adds that the mosque was the work of Omar, "which, after a -short time, being completed successfully to his mind, as it exists at -this day in Jerusalem, he (Omar) endowed with many and countless -possessions." This author repeats that in the interior, and outside the -building, was written the name of Omar its founder. "Moreover, in the -beginning of this volume, we have named the author of this building, the -son of Catab, who, third from the seducer Mohammed, was his successor in -his apostasy and his kingdom: and that this is so the ancient -inscriptions inside the said building and outside it plainly declare." -(Book VIII. chap. 3.) - -NOTE XVIII. An Arab chronicler relates, that "Abd-el-Malek, khalif of -the dynasty of the Ommiades, gave orders for the construction of the -great dome which was then wanting, and sent letters everywhere to inform -the Emirs of his intention. Every one commended his design, and the -people invoked upon him the blessings of heaven. He set aside for this -work the tribute that he collected from Egypt for seven years, and -deposited it under the cupola of the so-called throne of David, which he -turned for the time into a treasury. The charge of this treasury he -entrusted to one Regiah-ben-Havuk, appointing besides, for the -superintendence of the works, Jazib-ben-Salem; and a part of the mosque -to the east having fallen, while the treasury was short of money, he -ordered that the plates of gold with which the dome was ornamented -should be converted into coin. This happened in the year 65 of the -Hejra, or 684 A.D. The mosque was opened to the public at that time -twice a week; on Monday and Thursday. From beneath the Sakharah, the -Mohammedans say, rises the spring of the four rivers of the earthly -paradise, whose waters have the virtue of washing away the sins of those -who drink of them. They believe, moreover, that an angel is appointed to -be guardian of the mosque." (Arab MS. in the library of the Kadi at -Jaffa.) - -NOTE XIX. Khondemir, a celebrated Persian historian, who wrote in the -fifteenth century, attributes the enlargement of the building to Valid. -He is an author worthy of credit. He drew the materials of his history -from the famous library of the Emir _Aly-Schyr_, a virtuoso, and a great -protector of letters. The latter, in the year 904 (1498 A.D.), conferred -upon him the post of librarian. He it is who tells the story of the -cupola at Baalbec. - -NOTE XX. The invasion of the Carmathians having stopped for a time the -pilgrimages to Mecca, the Mosque of Omar took the place of the _Kaaba_, -and for more than twenty years the crowds of pilgrims turned their steps -towards Jerusalem. This interruption of the pilgrimages began in the -year 317 of the Hejra (A.D. 929) under the Khalifate of Al-Moktadar, and -lasted till 339 (950). (See D'Herbelot, s. v. Cods.) - -NOTE XXI. As regards the date of this inscription it is not necessary to -calculate rigorously, whether the works of the building took place after -that period, or began in that year, seeing that the Turkish and Arab -princes date the events of their reign from the day of their accession. -It is the same with the coins which are struck through the whole course -of their reign. - -NOTE XXII. A Christian writer, an eye-witness, says, "that under the -dome, and in the porch of the mosque the blood ran up to the knees, and -up to the snaffles of the horses." Michaud, Histoire des Croisades, Vol. -I. p. 443. Fifth edition. Very inappropriately has M. Chateaubriand, in -speaking of the Crusades, repeated it as a truth, "that the spirit of -Mohammedanism is persecution and conquest, and that the Gospel, on the -contrary, preaches only tolerance and peace." The champions of the Cross -gave this doctrine the lie, written in blood. The Crusaders hardly -remembered even for a few moments that they had come to worship the -sepulchre of Christ; after prostrating themselves in the Church of the -Resurrection, they turned aside to renew the scenes of butchery, which -did not cease for a whole week. More than 70,000 Mohammedans, of every -age and sex, were massacred at Jerusalem: the Jews were shut up in their -synagogues and burnt. (Bibliotheque des Croisades, Tom. IV. p. 12.) - -NOTE XXIII. This building was consecrated by Albericus, bishop at that -time in Syria, whither Pope Innocent II. had sent him as Apostolical -Legate. A number of noble and distinguished personages were gathered -together to witness the ceremony, among whom is mentioned Jocelin, Count -of Edessa, who had come to Jerusalem on the occasion of Easter. "The -legate therefore, having first taken counsel with the prelates of the -churches, on the third day after the holy Passover, together with the -patriarch, and some of the bishops, solemnly dedicated the temple of the -Lord. There were present on the day of dedication many great and noble -men, as well from beyond the seas as from the neighbouring lands, -amongst whom was the younger Jocelin, Count of Edessa, who at that time, -during the solemn festivals of Eastertide, was residing in great state -in the city." (William of Tyre, Book XV. Chap. 17.) - -NOTE XXIV. It is at this period of the Crusades that the mosque began to -be known under the name of "Temple of the Lord," which has often caused -many writers to confound this "temple" with that of the Resurrection, -otherwise called that of the Holy Sepulchre. - -NOTE XXV. The behaviour of Saladin to the Christians is deserving of all -praise: he gave liberty to a large number of poor persons who could not -pay a ransom; he distributed alms to a great number of people; he -allowed the Knights Hospitaler to remain at Jerusalem to take charge of -their sick; and his brother Malec-Adel paid the ransom of two thousand -prisoners. The generous conduct of the Mohammedan chiefs offers, -assuredly, an extraordinary contrast to the barbarous excesses committed -by the warriors of the first crusade: it is a difficult thing to justify -the latter. (See Gibbon, chap. LIX.; Michaud, I. p. 347.) - -NOTE XXVI. Saladin, before reconverting the "Temple of the Lord" into a -mosque, had it wholly cleansed with rose-water, which he had procured -from Damascus. Then he removed all the ornaments and whatever else could -recall the Christian occupation, and set there himself the pulpit which -had been built by Norradin. - -NOTE XXVII. When the news of the discovery of the fountain spread over -Jerusalem, all the people gathered in crowds to see it, but the most -eager were the Israelites. They rejoiced at the sight of it, and pressed -forward, anxious to touch the rock, to taste the water, or to take a -little of it in small pitchers, some in order to preserve it as a relic, -others to carry it to the infirm who could not crawl to the spot. From -the chief Rabbi to the old women, all ran to the place, and all gave -vent to cries of joy, or were moved even to tears. Why was all this? The -Israelites were influenced by a tradition deeply graven on their hearts, -to the effect that when certain springs in Jerusalem had been -discovered, the coming of Messiah was at hand, the temple should rise -again from its ruins, and with it the glory of their nation. - -NOTE XXVIII. The sites where the stones are found greatest in length and -in cubical content in the walls of Jerusalem, are the following: - -In the wall, which starts from the line of the eastern enclosure, at the -north-east corner of the quadrilateral of the Haram (Plate XVII.); one -is found which is about 23 feet in length and 3-1/2 in height. - -Between this and the golden gate, in the wall, is another 12 feet long -and 5 feet high: and in the inner jamb of the golden gate, on the north, -one is found of nearly the same dimensions as the preceding. - -At the south-east corner of the Haram there are some of large -dimensions; there are none greater in the whole city. Of the stones of -20 cubits in length, and 10 in height, of which Josephus writes (Wars, -V. 4, Sec. 2), I have not found a single one on the soil of Jerusalem. - -NOTE XXIX. It seems that the use of the two gates may be attributed to -their being situated in the most frequented part of the city; they -served for the passage, the one of persons going out, the other of -persons coming in, so as to avoid all crowding, and the stoppages which -might result from it. Indeed, on the eastern side of the temple, where a -great part of the Court of the Gentiles was, there must always have been -a great multitude of people. The real ground for its being closed -(though so many ridiculous causes are alleged) is that the Turks -consider the temple enclosure sacred in all its parts. Therefore, they -do not allow any trade to be carried on there, nor any buying or -selling, or transaction of business, or even walking for pleasure: -accordingly, the gate on that side becomes entirely useless, the more -so, that there is in its neighbourhood the gate of S. Mary. - -NOTE XXX. There was a time when the Christians in Palestine adopted the -practice of representing the entry of Jesus into the Temple on Palm -Sunday, entering Jerusalem in procession by the Golden Gate. The custom -may be traced up to the time of Godfrey of Bouillon. On this subject the -reader may consult, as contemporary authorities, Albert of Aix (Book -XIII. Chap. 17) and William of Tyre (Book VIII. Chap. 3, and Book XI. -Chap. 35). - -NOTE XXXI. In the times of Alberto Floresi, an Italian traveller who -visited Jerusalem in 1630, it was by the Dung gate (called also the gate -of the Mogarabins) that the procession entered, which some centuries -before, as I mentioned above, starting from Bethphage, and crossing the -Mount of Olives, passed through the Golden Gate. (MS. Travels of -Floresi, communicated to the Abbe Mariti by Dr Octavio Targioni -Tozzetti, L'Etat present de Jerusalem, p. 21.) - -NOTE XXXII. The Mohammedans say that the mare el-Borak was the steed -ordinarily ridden by the Angel Gabriel, who used often to lend it to -Mohammed to take his night-journeys. They portray it as having the head -and the neck of a beautiful woman, with a crown and wings. - -NOTE XXXIII. Many are the stories which are told of the Golden Gate, as -well by Mohammedans as by Christians: I quote some of them. - -The Mohammedans say that the two divisions of the Golden Gate were made -in memory of the _repentance_ of Adam and Eve, for having disobeyed the -orders which God had given them in Paradise, and at the same time of the -_mercy_ of God shown towards them. Hence they call the southern aisle -the Gate of _Mercy_, and the other, the Gate of _Repentance_. - -There is a general belief amongst Mohammedans that a day will come when -Jerusalem will fall into the hands of a Christian prince, who will take -it on a Friday. This is one of the reasons why it remains a fortified -town. - -The Christians have no less traditions on this head. For example, they -report, that when the Emperor Heraclius returned victorious to -Jerusalem, bringing back thither the wood of the Holy Cross which he had -recovered in Persia, he wished to pass through the Golden Gate on -horseback, and decked out in all the insignia of royalty, but that an -invisible hand held him back, whilst a voice ordered him to dismount, to -divest himself of his regal robes, and to pass that threshold in all -humility; whereupon he was able to pass. - -NOTE XXXIV. "From Sion (we went) to the Church of St Mary, where is a -large body of monks, and countless companies of women, and where beds -for the sick can be provided, from three to five thousand. And we -offered up prayer in the judgment-hall, where the Lord had hearing, in -which is now the Church of S. Sophia. Before the ruins of the Temple of -Solomon, under the street, there runs water from the Fountain of Siloam. -Near Solomon's porch, in the church itself, is the seat on which Pilate -sate, when he heard the Lord. There is a square stone on which the -accused was elevated, that He might be heard and seen by all. On it was -our Lord raised when He had hearing of Pilate, and there remained an -impression of a small, handsome, and delicate foot. By the rock itself, -too, many miracles are wrought: they take the measure of the foot-print, -and tie it over a weak part, which is immediately healed." (Anton. -Placent. Itin. Sect. 23 in Ugolini, Thes. Tom. VII. page 1216.) - -NOTE XXXV. In the year 1118 Hugues de Payens, and Geoffroid de St -Aldemar, and certain other knights, applied for a rule for the formation -of an order. In 1128 the Pope Honorius gave them a charter, which was -adopted at the Council of Troyes in Champagne. The members of this order -took the name of Templars, and wore a white robe with a red cross. Their -name was derived from their having their first house close to the -temple, for King Baldwin had given up to them a part of his palace, to -the south of the temple. (William of Tyre, Book XII. Chap. 7.) - -NOTE XXXVI. The Mohammedans say that in this place King David, during -his life, administered justice in the following way. When he was sitting -in judgment, and wished to know if the deponents in their examination -were stating what was true, he made a chain descend from heaven, and -ordered that each of the two parties who had thus stated their cases -should touch it. When one of the parties had told a lie, at his touch a -ring fell from the chain, and so the wise king learnt which was in the -right. I may be allowed to remark that now the chain no longer descends -from heaven, so we may conclude that all the rings have fallen, from its -having been too much used. - -It is on this same site that David will return to judge the people of -Israel at the final judgment. - -NOTE XXXVII. The keeper of the mosque relates, that when Solomon wished -to build a Temple to the Lord, he called not only men to his aid, but -also the living creatures of the earth. All came together to help him -with all their power; but the _magpie_ sought to disobey Solomon, -whereupon the great King turned it into stone, to be an example to all -those who were disposed not to execute his orders. This is the stone -that the keeper shews. - -NOTE XXXVIII. The mosaics which adorn the interior of the mosque -_es-Sakharah_ above the pointed arches that spring from the columns, and -in the drum which supports the dome, date, according to Mohammedan -Chronicles, from the time of Selim I. and Solyman, but I imagine they -are of still greater antiquity. The internal ornamentation of the dome -has a thoroughly Saracenic character; I conclude that it is perhaps -anterior to Solyman, though there is no doubt that he restored it a good -deal. All the other decorations are of Solyman's time. The Count de -Vogue has just completed a long examination of the mosques -_es-Sakharah_, and _el-Aksa_, and we may fairly expect that he, with his -clear judgment, and ready intelligence, will not deprive science of the -result of his labours. - -NOTE XXXIX. The Mohammedan traditions concerning this rock are numerous; -I quote a few of them. It has been the scene of the prayers of Abraham, -Isaac, Jacob, David, Solomon, Mohammed, and many other prophets, and -here they have received their inspiration from heaven. The rock retains -the imprint of the foot of the patriarch Enoch, who was the handsomest, -and the wisest man that lived upon the earth. He was learned in -astronomy, in which he made great discoveries, and, to publish them, -invented printing. God loved him so that he would not let him die, but -translated him to heaven. The patriarch had such an attachment to -Jerusalem, that he wished to leave some memorial of his having lived -there, which accounts for his foot-print being there. - -The rock is guarded by an army of Angels, who keep watch there night and -day, in prayer to God. The canvas covering which is found on the rock is -the same which was used by Adam and Eve, when the former found the -latter after their separation of a hundred years, consequent on their -expulsion from Paradise. - -The stairs which lead into the vaults of the mosque contain the stone -called _the tongue_, because it announced to Omar, that this was the -rock on which Jacob had the vision. - -NOTE XL. The Mohammedans say that it is supported in the air by the -following cause. When Mohammed died, and ascended to heaven, the sacred -stone wished to follow him, but the prophet ordered it to return to its -place; whilst it hesitated the angel Gabriel pressed it down (this is -the reason why they show the impression of his five fingers on the -rock), and then it lowered itself again; but when it was already in -contact, as it were, with the ground, and received no further orders, it -remained in the position in which it is now found. - -NOTE XLI. By the side of the _Minbar_, the Mohammedan guide, with all -seriousness, points out the place where is an invisible balance, which -is called _Wezn_, and tells how at the end of the world there will be -three ages: and then Israfil, who has charge of the celestial trumpet -(called _Boru_), will blow it the first time to give notice of the -universal death. It will sound for the second time 40 years afterwards, -and then all the dead of past ages shall rise: on that day Jesus, with -the other prophets, will descend from heaven with their attendants, and -when they have come to the _Haram es-Sherif_ Jesus will sit upon His -throne for judgment: but not being sufficient in Himself for all, He -will depute David and Solomon to judge the Jews, Mohammed to judge the -Mohammedans, and will retain the Christians for His own jurisdiction. In -this great Judgment the balance _Wezn_ will be used to decide who are to -enjoy eternal felicity, and who to be punished by being appointed their -portion for ever in fire with the fallen spirits. All those who are to -undergo this trial will be gathered together in the Valley of -Jehoshaphat. - -NOTE XLII. Terrace-roofs have always been in general use in the East, -even for ages; compare Judges xvi. 27, where we are told that there were -people on the roof when Samson made the temple of Dagon fall. Assuredly -if it had not been flat, 3000 persons could not have remained upon it. - - -NOTES TO CHAPTER IV. - -NOTE I. The Holy City, by the Rev. George Williams, B.D., Fellow of -King's College, Cambridge; Second Edition, including an Architectural -History of the Church of the Holy Sepulchre at Jerusalem, by the Rev. -Robert Willis, M.A., F.R.S., Jacksonian Professor in the University of -Cambridge, 2 Vols. 8vo. 1849; Les Eglises de la Terre Sainte, par le -Comte Melchior de Vogue. - -NOTE II. List of the bishops of Jerusalem, extracted from Michel le -Quien's Oriens Christianus, Tom. III. pp. 139 sq. Paris, 1740. - - A.D. - - 30. S. James, the Apostle and brother of our Lord. - 60. S. Simeon, or Simon, the Martyr. - 107. Justus, or Jude I. - 111. Zacchaeus, or Zacharias. - Tobias. - Benjamin. - John I. - Matthias, or Matthew. - Philip. - 125. Seneca. - Justus II. - Levi. - Ephraim. - Joseph. - Jude II. - -All the above are of Hebrew extraction. The following are of Gentile -origin. The former were bishops of Jerusalem, properly so called, the -latter bishops of Aelia Capitolina, who are counted as bishops of -Jerusalem. - - 136. Marcus. - 156. Cassianus. - Publius. - Maximus I. - Julian I. - Caius I., or Gaius. - Symmachus. - Caius II. - Julian II. - Capito. - 185. Maximus II. - Antoninus. - Valens. - Dolichianus. - Narcissus. - Dius. - Germanion. - Gordius. - Narcissus (a second time). - 212. Alexander, martyr. - 250. Mazabanes. - 265. Hymenaeus. - 298. Zabdas. - 302. Hermon. - 313. Macarius I. During his episcopate Constantine laid the - foundations of the Church of the Resurrection in Jerusalem. - 335. Maximus III., who consecrated the Church of the Resurrection. - -NOTE III. Eusebius, Life of Constantine, book III. chap. 27 and -following (English Translation, Bagster and Sons, London, 1845). After -giving an account of the demolition of the temple of Venus, he proceeds, -"Nor did the Emperor's zeal stop here; but he gave further orders that the -materials of what was then destroyed should be removed, and thrown as far -from the spot as possible; and this command was speedily executed. The -emperor, however, was not satisfied with having proceeded thus far: once -more, fired with holy ardour, he directed that the ground itself should be -dug up to a considerable depth, and the soil, which had been polluted by -the foul impurities of demon worship, transported to a far distant place. -This also was accomplished without delay. But as soon as the original -surface of the ground, beneath the covering of earth, appeared, -immediately, and contrary to all expectation, the venerable and hallowed -monument of our Saviour's resurrection was discovered. Then indeed did -this most holy cave present a most faithful similitude of His return to -life, in that, after lying buried in darkness, it again emerged to light, -and afforded to all who came to witness the sight, a clear and visible -proof of the wonders of which that spot had once been the scene." - -Chap. XXXI. (_Continuation of a Letter from Constantine to the Bishop -Macarius._) "It will be well therefore for your sagacity to make such -arrangements and provision of all things needful for the work, that not -only the church itself as a whole may surpass all others whatsoever in -beauty, but that the details of the building may be of such a kind that -the fairest structures in any city of the empire may be excelled by this. -And with respect to the erection and decoration of the walls, this is to -inform you that our friend Dracilianus, the deputy of the Praetorian -Prefects, and the governor of the province, have received a charge from -us. For our pious directions to them are to the effect that artificers and -labourers, ... shall forthwith be furnished by their care. And as to the -columns and marbles, whatever you shall judge, after actual inspection of -the plan, to be especially precious and serviceable, be diligent to send -information to us in writing, in order that whatever materials, and in -whatever quantity we shall esteem from your letter to be needful, may be -procured from every quarter, as required. With respect to the roof of the -church, I wish to know from you whether in your judgment it should be -ceiled, or finished with any other kind of workmanship. If the ceiling be -adopted, it may also be ornamented with gold." - -Chap. XXXIII. "This was the emperor's letter; and his directions were at -once carried into effect. Accordingly, on the very spot which witnessed -the Saviour's sufferings, a new Jerusalem was constructed, over against -the one so celebrated of old, which, since the foul stain of guilt brought -upon it by the murder of the Lord, had experienced the last extremity of -desolation, the effect of Divine judgment on its impious people. It was -opposite this city that the emperor now began to rear a monument to the -Saviour's victory over death." - -Chap. XXXIV. &c. _Description of the Holy Sepulchre._ "This monument, -therefore, first of all, as the chief part of the whole, the emperor's -zealous magnificence beautified with rare columns, and profusely enriched -with the most splendid decorations of every kind. The next object of his -attention was a space of ground of great extent, and open to the pure air -of heaven. This he adorned with a pavement of finely-polished stone, and -enclosed it on three sides with porticoes of great length. For at the side -opposite to the Sepulchre, which was the eastern side, the church itself -was erected; a noble work rising to a vast height, and of great extent -both in length and breadth. The interior of this structure was floored -with marble slabs of various colours; while the external surface of the -walls, which shone with polished stones, accurately fitted together, -exhibited a degree of splendour in no respect inferior to that of marble. -With regard to the roof, it was covered on the outside with lead, as a -protection against the rains of winter. But the inner part of the roof, -which was finished with sculptured fretwork, extended in a series of -connected compartments, like a vast sea, over the whole church; and being -overlaid throughout with the purest gold, caused the entire building to -glitter as it were with rays of light. - -"Besides this were two porticoes on each side, with upper and lower ranges -of pillars, corresponding in length with the church itself; and these also -had their roofs ornamented with gold. Of these porticoes, those which were -exterior to the church were supported by columns of great size, while -those within these rested on piles of stone beautifully adorned on the -surface. Three gates, placed exactly east, were intended to receive those -who entered the church. - -"Opposite these gates the crowning part of the whole was the hemisphere," -(apparently an altar of a hemicylindrical form,) "which rose to the very -summit of the church. This was encircled by twelve columns, (according to -the number of the apostles of our Saviour,) having their capitals -embellished with silver bowls of great size, which the emperor himself -presented as a splendid offering to his God. - -"In the next place, he enclosed the atrium which occupied the space -leading to the entrances in front of the church. This comprehended, first -the court, then the porticoes on each side, and lastly the gates of the -court. After these in the midst of the open market-place, the entrance -gates of the whole work, which were of exquisite workmanship, afforded to -passers by on the outside a view of the interior, which could not fail to -inspire astonishment." - -Such is Eusebius' account of the first Church of the Holy Sepulchre at -Jerusalem: he makes no mention of Calvary, and I make no doubt that, if -its site had then been discovered, the historian of Constantine would -not have passed it over without notice. - -An eye-witness of the magnificence of Constantine's Church is found in -the Pilgrim of Bordeaux, who visited Jerusalem about 333 or 334. He -speaks of it in his description of the Holy City, quoted in the notes to -the first chapter. - -NOTE IV. _Description of S. Arculf, who visited the Holy places in 680_ -(Acta Sanctorum ordinis S. Benedicti. Saec. III. part 2, p. 504). - -"On these points we have inquired very particularly of S. Arculf, and -specially concerning the Sepulchre of our Lord, and the church erected -over it, the plan of which he drew for us upon a waxen tablet. It is a -large church built entirely of stone, forming a perfect circle, and -rising from its foundations with three walls. Between each pair of walls -is a broad space forming a corridor, and at three points in the middle -wall are three altars of wonderful workmanship. This round church is -occupied by the three altars above mentioned, one facing the south, -another the north, and the third towards the west. It is supported by -twelve stone columns of wondrous size. It has eight doors, or entrances, -through the three walls with the corridors intervening, four of which -doors face the south-east, while the rest face the east. In the middle -space of the inner circle is a round grotto cut in the solid rock, in -which nine men can pray standing, and the roof of which is about a foot -and a half above the head of a man of ordinary stature. The entrance to -this grotto is on the eastern side, and the whole of the exterior is -covered with choice marble, the apex being adorned with gold, and -supporting a golden cross of considerable size. Within, on the north -side of this grotto, is the tomb cut out of the same rock: but the floor -of the grotto is lower than the level of the tomb, for from the former -to the lateral margin of the tomb is a height of about three palms. - -"In this place we must mention a discrepancy of names between the -monument and the tomb; for the round grotto mentioned above is otherwise -called the Monument of the Evangelist: and they say, that to the mouth -of this the stone was rolled, and from it rolled away, at our Lord's -resurrection; while the name of sepulchre is applied to the chamber -within the grotto that is on the north side of the monument, in which -the Lord's body lay wrapt in fine linen. The length of this S. Arculf -measured with his own hands, and found it to be seven feet. This tomb is -not, as some persons wrongly imagine, divided in two by a stone cut out -of the wall, itself forming a space for two legs and thighs, by coming -between and separating them; but is undivided from the head to the foot, -with sufficient room for one man lying upon his back, so forming a kind -of cavern with an entrance at the side opposite to the south part of the -monumental chamber. It has a low apex projecting above it, carved in the -rock, and contains twelve lamps burning continually day and night, -corresponding to the number of the twelve apostles. Four of these are -placed at the foot of the sepulchral couch, and the other eight towards -the head, on the right hand side, all of them being constantly fed with -oil. - -"As to the stone which after our Lord's crucifixion and burial was -rolled to the mouth of the said monument by the united efforts of many -men, Arculf relates that he found it broken in two parts. The lesser -part, squared by the chisel, forms the altar which stands before the -entrance of the aforesaid round church, while the larger, also chiselled -like the former, is the square altar, covered with linen cloths, on the -eastern side of the same. - -"As regards the colours of the stone out of which the aforementioned -grotto is hollowed by the tools of the stone-workers, with the Lord's -Sepulchre on its north side cut from the same rock as the grotto itself, -Arculf told me in answer to my questions, that the said grotto of the -monument of our Lord, being covered with no ornament within, bears to -this day upon its vaulted surface the marks of the tools used by the -masons and stone-workers in the work: but the colour of the said stone -appears not to be uniform, but a mixture of two, to wit, red and white, -and the said stone is shewn as the stone of two colours. - -"This round church, so often mentioned above, which is called the -Anastasis, or Resurrection, and is built on the spot which witnessed our -Lord's resurrection, is joined on the right by a square church dedicated -to S. Mary the mother of God. - -"Moreover another large church is built on the eastern side on the spot -which is called in the Hebrew Golgotha: from the ceiling of which is -suspended by ropes a brazen wheel with lamps, and beneath it is a large -silver cross fixed in the very place where stood the wooden cross on -which the Saviour of the human race suffered. - -"Adjoining this square-built church on the site of Calvary, on the east, -is the famous stone church built with great magnificence by the Emperor -Constantine, and called the Martyrdom, erected, as they say, in the -place where the cross of our Lord and the other two crosses were found -by divine revelation, two hundred and thirty-three years after they had -been buried. Between these two churches is the famous spot where the -patriarch Abraham built an altar, and laid upon it the bundle of wood, -and seized the sword already drawn from its scabbard to sacrifice his -son Isaac; where is now a wooden table of moderate size, on which the -offerings of the people for the poor are deposited. - -"Between the Anastasis or round church so often mentioned above, and the -basilica of Constantine, a short open street extends to the church on -Golgotha, in which are lamps burning night and day. Also between the -basilica on Golgotha and the Martyrdom is a seat, in which is the cup of -the Lord, which, after blessing it with His own hand during the supper -before His passion, He Himself handed to the Apostles that sate at meat -with Him. It is a silver cup, holding about a French quart, and having -two handles set over against each other on opposite sides. In this cup -is the sponge, which they that crucified our Lord filled with vinegar, -and put upon hyssop, and held up to His mouth. From this same cup, it is -said that our Lord drank in company with His Apostles after His -resurrection." - -NOTE V. _Extracts from the description of Saewulf._ (Translated in Mr -Wright's "Early Travels in Palestine.") - -"The entrance to the city of Jerusalem is from the west, under the -citadel of King David, by the gate which is called the Gate of David. -The first place to be visited is the Church of the Holy Sepulchre, -called the Martyrdom, not only because the streets lead most directly to -it, but because it is more celebrated than all the other churches.... In -the middle of this church is our Lord's Sepulchre, surrounded by a very -strong wall and roof, lest the rain should fall upon the Holy Sepulchre, -for the church above is open to the sky.... In the court of the church -of our Lord's Sepulchre are seen some very holy places, namely, the -prison in which our Lord Jesus Christ was confined after He was -betrayed, according to the testimony of the Assyrians; then, a little -above, appears the place where the holy cross and the other crosses were -found, where afterwards a large church was built in honour of Queen -Helena, which however has since been utterly destroyed by the Pagans; -and below, not far from the prison, stands the marble column to which -our Lord Jesus Christ was bound in the common hall, and scourged with -most cruel stripes. Near this is the spot where our Lord was stripped of -His garments and clad in a purple robe by the soldiers, and crowned with -the crown of thorns, and they parted His raiment amongst them, casting -lots. Next we ascend Mount Calvary, where the patriarch Abraham raised -an altar, and prepared, by God's command, to sacrifice his own son; -there afterwards the Son of God, whom he prefigured, was offered up as a -sacrifice to God the Father for the redemption of the world. The rock of -that mountain remains a witness of our Lord's passion, being much -cracked near the hole, in which our Lord's cross was fixed, because it -could not suffer the death of its Maker without rending, as we read in -the Passion, 'and the rocks rent.' Below is the place called Golgotha, -where Adam is said to have been raised from the dead by the stream of -the Lord's blood which fell upon him, as is said in the Lord's Passion, -'And many bodies of the saints which slept arose.' But in the Sentences -of S. Augustine, we read that he was buried at Hebron, where also the -three patriarchs were afterwards buried with their wives; Abraham with -Sarah, Isaac with Rebecca, and Jacob with Leah; as also the bones of -Joseph which the children of Israel carried with them from Egypt. Near -the place of Calvary is the church of S. Mary, on the spot where the -body of our Lord, after having been taken down from the cross, was -anointed with spices and wrapt in a linen cloth or shroud. - -"At the head of the church of the Holy Sepulchre, in the wall outside, -not far from the place of Calvary, is the place called _Compas_, which -our Lord Jesus Christ Himself signified and measured with his own hands -as the middle of the world, according to the words of the Psalmist, 'For -God is my King of old, working salvation in the midst of the earth.' -Some say that this is the place where our Lord Jesus Christ first -appeared to Mary Magdalene, while she sought Him weeping, and thought He -had been a gardener, as is related in the Gospel. - -"These most holy places of prayer are contained in the court of our -Lord's Sepulchre, on the east side. In the sides of the church itself -are attached, on one side and the other, two most beautiful chapels in -honour of S. Mary and S. John, who, sharing in our Lord's sufferings, -stationed themselves one on each side of Him. On the west wall of the -chapel of S. Mary is seen the portrait of the mother of our Lord, who -once, by speaking wonderfully through the Holy Spirit, in the form in -which she is here painted, comforted Mary the Egyptian, when she -repented with her whole heart, and sought the help of the mother of our -Lord, as we read in her life. - -"On the other side of the church of S. John is a very fair monastery of -the Holy Trinity, in which is the place of the baptistery, to which -adjoins the chapel of S. James the Apostle, who first filled the -pontifical chair at Jerusalem. These are all so composed and arranged, -that any one standing in the furthest church may clearly scan the five -churches from door to door. - -"Without the gate of the Holy Sepulchre, to the south, is the church of -S. Mary, called the Latin, because the monks there perform divine -service in the Latin tongue; and the Assyrians say that the blessed -mother of our Lord, at the crucifixion of her Son, stood on the spot now -occupied by the altar of this church. Adjoining this church is another -church of S. Mary, called the Less, occupied by nuns who serve devoutly -the Virgin and her Son. Near which is the Hospital, where is a -celebrated monastery founded in honour of S. John the Baptist." - -NOTE VI. William of Tyre, VIII. 3. "On the eastern slope of the same -hill is the Church of the Resurrection in the form of a rotunda, which -being situated on the slope, and almost over-topped by the hill close to -it, and so darkened, has a roof composed of beams placed upright, and -wrought together by wondrous art into the shape of a crown, uncovered, -and always open, by which the necessary light is conveyed into the -church. Under this opening is the tomb of our Saviour. Beyond the -entrance for the Latins is the scene of our Lord's passion, which is -called Calvary, or Golgotha; where it is said that the wood of the -life-giving cross was found, and where our Saviour's body, having been -taken down from the cross, is said to have been embalmed with spices and -wrapt in fine linen, as was the Jews' custom of burial. Beyond the -limits of the Calvary aforesaid are many small houses of prayer. But -after that the Christians, by the help of the divine goodness, occupied -the city with a strong hand, the aforesaid building appeared to them too -contracted, and by enlarging the church with most solid and excellent -work, and enclosing the old building within the new, they succeeded -wonderfully in putting together in one the aforementioned places." - -John of Wuertzburg, who visited the Holy Land in the twelfth century, -when the Crusaders had already completed their works in the Church of -the Resurrection, has transmitted to us a valuable detailed description, -the principal passages of which I quote: "Whilst everything was in -preparing for the crucifixion," he says, "our Lord was kept bound in a -place at some distance from Calvary, which served as a prison: this -place is marked by a chapel, and is called to this day the prison of our -Lord, and is on the side opposite to Calvary, on the left of the -church.... To the right of the entrance in the greater church is a place -forming a portion of Calvary, in whose upper part is shewn a rent in the -rock. In the same is depicted in fine mosaic work the Passion of Christ, -and His burial, together with the testimony of the prophets, agreeing on -all sides with the fact. - -"In the middle of the choir, not far from the site of Calvary, is a spot -where an altar has been formed of raised slabs of marble, supported by a -trellis of iron. Beneath these slabs are some small circles traced in -the pavements, which, they say is the centre of the earth, according to -the saying, 'In the middle of the earth He hath wrought salvation.' - -"A building of large dimensions, erected in a circular form round the -monument, has at its further end a continuous wall adorned by different -statues, and lighted by several lamps. In the inner circle of this -larger building are eight round columns, on square bases, adorned on -the outside with the same number of square slabs of marble, and erected -all round the building, so as to sustain the weight of the building and -the roof, which, as we have said, is open in the middle. - -"We have said that the columns are placed round the building to the -number above mentioned, but towards the east their positions and number -have been altered, owing to the addition of a new building, which has -its entrance-door on that side. This new church, just added, contains a -wide and roomy choir, and a spacious chapel, in which is the high altar, -consecrated to the honour of the Anastasis, or Resurrection, as the -mosaic above it distinctly proves. For in it Christ is depicted as -having broken the bars of hell, and rising again from the dead, and as -bringing back thence our first father Adam. Without this chapel, and -within the cloisters, is a wide corridor leading round the new building -and also the older building of the monument aforesaid, suited for a -procession. At the head of the said new church, towards the east and -close to the choir-screen, is a well-lighted subterranean passage like a -crypt, in which Queen Helena is said to have found our Lord's cross. -Accordingly there is within an altar dedicated to the honour of the said -S. Helena. The greater part of the sacred wood she took with her to -Constantinople, the remainder however was left at Jerusalem, and is -carefully and reverently kept in a certain place on the other side of -the church opposite to Calvary." - -NOTE VII. The whole of the dome has been covered with sheet-lead, which -has disappeared on the south-west side (Plate XXXI.), where are the -Greek terrace-roofs. Consequently the damp is every day destroying the -wooden supports, and in the absence of such covering the ground below is -flooded in the rainy season. Throughout the rest of its circumference, -on the side of the Mohammedan terrace, the dome is in good condition, -and the lead is intact. Why then, it may be asked, is it thus damaged -only on the side belonging to the Greeks? We are told in reply, that the -wind detaches the sheets of lead, (which, be it observed, are fastened -by nails,) and carries them away; but it must be remarked that it is the -north wind only, and not the others, which blows with great force over -the city. It may be inferred from this how necessary it is that the -whole covering of the Holy Sepulchre should belong exclusively to the -church, and that no one should come near it or use it, in which case -disputes would diminish, and the interior of the building would be less -injured by damp. - -NOTE VIII. The two gates, the one on the west, the other on the east, -through which the square in front of the Church of the Resurrection is -reached, are very narrow and low, so that strangers are surprised to -find such a form used in places frequented by many visitors. This is not -the work of the Mohammedans, but was done by agreement of the different -religious bodies, in order to prevent beasts of burden from penetrating -into these sacred places. Without some such precaution their owners, and -especially the camel-drivers, would not fail to instal them there for -the night, simply because of the convenient situation of the square. -Besides this, these two gates form the barrier for the Jews of -Jerusalem, beyond which they cannot pass without exposing themselves to -insults, and perhaps to blows, or even worse, from the Christians of -Jerusalem, who imagine the place profaned by the passing of a Jew: -though they themselves think nothing of behaving irreverently while the -holy offices are being celebrated. If, however, a Jew is accompanied by -some one who can inspire them with fear or respect, these good -Christians will perhaps mutter and grumble, but venture no further. If a -slight _bakshish_ be administered, they will even salute him, and call -their correligionists a set of ignoramuses, though they themselves held -the same views before receiving _bakshish_. - -NOTE IX. The fact that there is only one entrance to the Church of the -Resurrection is the cause of many serious accidents at times when there -is any great gathering of people, particularly at Easter. This is -especially the case when the times of the celebration of this festival -by the different sects coincide. During the eight years which I spent at -Jerusalem, not an Easter passed without some such casualty. Some were -suffocated; some fainted in the crush, were trampled upon, and received -serious injuries; some had their limbs broken. These accidents are -constantly repeated, yet no one ever thinks of taking any means to avoid -them, though it would be so easy to open the other door. It is well -known how in 1836 Ibrahim Pasha attended the Greek service of the Holy -Fire, and a quarrel arose betwixt the Greeks and the Armenians: the -whole multitude sought some way of escape, and such was the crowding at -this the only single door, that the conqueror got out with much -difficulty by passing over thirty dead bodies that lay there, the -victims of the crush. (See Curzon's Monasteries of the Levant, chap. -16.) - -NOTE X. The following is Edrisi's account of the western gate. "The -church is entered by the western gate, and the traveller finds himself -under the cupola, which covers the whole of the enclosure, and which is -one of the most remarkable things in the world. The church is lower than -this door, and it is not possible to descend to the lower part on this -side of the building. Entrance is to be had on the north side by a door -which opens at the head of a staircase of thirty steps, which door is -called Bab-Sitti Mariam." - -NOTE XI. The Abbe Mariti, who visited the Sepulchre before the fire of -1808, found in Adam's Chapel, on the right, the tomb of Godfrey de -Bouillon, and on the left, opposite the former, the tomb of Baldwin I., -his successor; they were of marble, or of a kind of stone which much -resembles it[900]. The following is the inscription on Godfrey's tomb: - - HIC JACET - INCLITUS DUX GODEFRIDUS DE BULLON - QUI TOTAM TERRAM AQUISIVIT - CULTUI KRANO CUI ANIMA REGNET CUM XRO - AMEN. - -_Here lies the illustrious Captain Godfrey de Bouillon, who won all this -land for the Christian faith. May his soul reign with Christ. Amen._ - -That engraved on Baldwin's tomb is as follows:-- - - REX BALDEWINUS - IUDAS ALTER MACHABEUS. SPES PATRIE VIGOR - ECCLIE VIRT' UTRIUSQ' QUEM FORMIDABANT - CUI DONA TRIBUTA FEREBANT CEDAR EGYPT' DAN. - AC HOMICIDA DAMASCUS - PROH DOLOR - IN MODICO CLAUDITUR HOC TUMULO. - -_King Baldwin, a second Judas Maccabaeus, the hope of his country, the -strength of the Church, the mainstay of both, to whom Kedar, Egypt, Dan -and the murderous Damascus in fear brought gifts and tribute, is pent -up, alas! within this narrow tomb._ - -He also found in the same chapel an old tomb without any inscription, -fastened into the wall, which he was told was the _tomb of Melchizedek_. -It is known that the place was formerly intended to serve as a -burial-place for the Latin kings, and we are assured, says the Abbe, -that besides Godfrey and Baldwin I., there have since been buried there -Baldwin II., Baldwin III., Almericus I. (Amaury), Baldwin IV., and -Baldwin V. The tomb of the last-mentioned still exists amongst those -which are to be seen in the neighbourhood against the south side of the -choir of the Greeks, i.e. opposite to the Stone of Unction, on the -north side. On it is the following inscription:-- - - SEPTIM' IN TUMULO PUER ISTO REX TUMULAT' - EST BALDEVINI REGUM DE SANGUINE NAT'. - QUEM TULIT E MUNDO SORS PRIMAE CONDITIONIS - UT PARADISIACAE LOCA POSSIDEAT REGIONIS[901]. - -"_Within this tomb rests a youthful king, the seventh of a line of kings -sprung from Baldwin; whom the common lot has carried off from the world -to inhabit the regions of paradise._" Histoire de l'Etat present de -Jerusalem, par l'Abbe Mariti, publiee par le R. P. Laorty Hadji, Paris, -1853, pp. 56, 57. - -NOTE XII. William of Tyre refers to a place where our Lord's body is -said to have been embalmed (Book VIII. Chap. 3. See Note VI.). - -Sanutus, who wrote in the fourteenth century, speaks of this place, but -puts it in the middle of the choir of the Greeks, far from that of which -we are now speaking. (Liber Secretorum fidelium Crucis, Lib. III. p. 14, -cap. 8.) - -Nicetas Choniata[902], a writer of the twelfth century, in his eighth -book, relates that the stone on which Christ's body was embalmed, was to -be seen in his time at Ephesus, whither the Emperor Manuel Comnenus had -carried it on his own shoulders from the gate of Bucoleon to the chapel -which was within the precincts of the palace, and that after the death -of that emperor it was removed thence and placed in his tomb. Nicetas -says that the stone is of a red hue; it seems more probable therefore -that it had formed part of Calvary itself, or of some smooth rock near -the sepulchre. - -NOTE XIII. I quote the most important passages relating to the Holy -Sepulchre, properly so called, which was carefully examined by the Abbe -Mariti, before it was all covered over as it is at present. - -"The Holy Sepulchre, placed at the centre of the building, is a block of -stone, which forms part of the soil, so hewn as to be quite separate -from the rest of the hill. - -"In the terrace-roof of the Sepulchre holes have been ingeniously formed -to let out the smoke from the lamps in the interior. - -"The sacred grotto is divided into two parts; the first is the Chapel of -the Angel; its eastern side, in which is the entrance-door, being built -of materials prepared by human hands, while the rest forms part of the -solid rock. There we saw a socle of stone, nearly square, embedded in -the rock, at the length of a cubit and a half from the gate of the Holy -Sepulchre, which is to the west of it: it served formerly as a support -to the stone which used to close the entrance of the Sepulchre. Inside -the Sepulchre is found a basin, hewn out with the chisel in the rock, of -three cubits and a sixth in length; its height four cubits five soldi, -in the middle; and on the sides, where it bends in forming a circular -arc, three cubits five soldi. Its breadth from north to south is not -equal throughout, being at the eastern end three cubits three soldi and -one-third, and at the west two cubits sixteen soldi and two-thirds. The -bench on which the Saviour's body was laid is three cubits and a third -long, and about two cubits and a third broad, raised one cubit and one -inch from the ground." (L'Etat present de Jerusalem, p. 66.) - -NOTE XIV. Before I give the description of the way in which the festival -of the Holy Fire is celebrated, I will quote the account given of it in -Abulfaragii (or Barhebraei) Chronicum Syriacum, Lips. 1789, 2 Vols. 4to. -pp. 215-220. - -"The originator of this persecution (that is, the persecution of Hakem -when he destroyed the Sepulchre in 1010) was some enemy of the -Christians[a], who told Hakem: When the Christians meet in the Church -of the Holy Sepulchre to keep Easter, the ministers of the Church employ -a particular artifice, viz. they anoint with oil and with balsam the -iron chain by which the lamp above the Sepulchre is suspended; and when -the Arab official has fastened the door of the Sepulchre, they place the -fire at the end of the iron chain, reaching it from the roof; the chain -descends immediately with it till it reaches the match, and is ignited. -Then they break into tears and cry _Kyrie Eleison_ as they see the fire -falling from heaven upon the tomb, and so strengthen themselves in their -faith." - -Another account is transmitted to us by Aretas, of Caesarea, who gives -certain information concerning it, under the name of Leo the Philosopher -to an Arab Vizir. He says: "To this day the sacred and much-worshipped -Sepulchre of Christ works a miracle every year on the day of the -Resurrection; when every fire in Jerusalem has been put out, the -Christians prepare a candle, and place it within the monument near the -Holy Sepulchre. The Emir of Jerusalem[b] closes the door, and while -the Christians stand outside crying _Kyrie Eleison_, a lamp appears, and -at once the candle is lighted by its flame. Then all the inhabitants -rekindle their fires in their houses by means of other candles lighted -at this one." - -_The Holy Fire of the Greeks and the Holy Sabbath of the Armenians at -Jerusalem._ - -In an age like the present, it is well that we should put on record -those acts and customs by which the name of civilization is profaned, -especially where they mask themselves under the name of religion. For -if this be done, those who have it in their power to stop and to -suppress them, cannot plead ignorance in excuse of the neglect of their -duty. - -The Holy Sabbath is a kind of festival or revel held round the Sepulchre -of our Lord, and continues from ten o'clock in the morning to three -o'clock in the afternoon. First of all, the Greek bishop takes his stand -inside the Sepulchre, while the pilgrims and the resident Greeks and -Armenians form a procession round the tomb, stamping and clapping their -hands, and shouting in a loud voice, _El Messiah atanah, u bidammu -astarana: Mahna el jom faratra u el jahudie hazana_. "The Messiah came -to us and redeemed us with His blood; to-day we rejoice, and the Jews -are sad." The excitement increases with the shouting, until the greater -part of the multitude appear to be intoxicated, and rush to and fro, as -in a state of frenzy, with the wildest cries and gesticulations. Some -throw their heads about violently, their hair floating in wild disorder, -and the foam streaming from their mouths, like men possessed. Some -mounting on each other's shoulders form themselves into living human -columns, and then suddenly fling themselves in the midst of the excited -throng. Others feign to be dead, and their companions carry them round -the building, singing funeral hymns and uttering their wonted cries of -mourning. Here is a party in high dispute, there a company fighting and -wrestling, while a third, and far the most numerous band, is madly -pressing towards the two oval holes through which the fire issues from -the Sepulchre, the one at the north, the other at the south end of the -monument. Meanwhile the government guards, or _Cavas_, attempt to -re-establish order by lashing out right and left with their tough whips -of hippopotamus hide. Everywhere is uproar and confusion, shouting and -stamping, as of madmen. When this has gone on for four or five hours, a -small flame at length makes its appearance at each of the holes above -mentioned. The bishop, concealed within the Sepulchre, having received -_from heaven_ the sacred fire, communicates it to the expectant -worshippers, who have awaited its coming with such devotion. The mind -cannot conceive, nor words describe the scene which then ensues; the -din, the crush, the struggling, each to be among the first to receive -the light. He who is nearest to the hole, and so the first to light his -candle, has probably paid dearly for the privilege; so high does the -competition run and such is the importance attached to gaining the -prize. Many pilgrims come from great distances, incurring all the -hardships and expense of a protracted journey merely to receive the Holy -Fire. As soon as they have received it, and carefully secured it in -their lanterns, they return home, having accomplished the sole purpose -of their pilgrimage, and caring nothing for the other festivities of -Easter-tide. - -Surraya Pasha, induced thereto by the urgent representations of M. de -Barrere, the French Consul in Palestine, has taken measures to prevent -any recurrence of the serious disorders which so frequently arose in -former times in connexion with this festival. Since he has been -governor, the time allowed for this desecration of the Holy Places has -been shortened, and the murderous quarrels which before prevailed are no -longer known. Would it not be more worthy of modern civilization to stop -it altogether? the Greek and Armenian pilgrimages to Jerusalem would -then, in all probability, cease. - -[Footnote a: See Silv. de Sacy, Expose de la Religion des Druses, Book -I. pp. cccxxxvi. and foll. The author mentions other details of the -origin and the motives of Hakem's fury against the Christians, given by -Severus. This Coptic Arab author attributes the origin of it to a monk -named John, who was ambitious of becoming bishop.] - -[Footnote b: In our time the door of the Sepulchre is closed, after a Greek -bishop, who is called _Bishop of the Fire_, has entered. We do not know -whether the miracle in present times is produced by a lamp concealed in -the walls of the Sepulchre, or by a preparation of phosphorus: but they -that wait for the appearance of the fire are as credulous, or pretend to -be so, as the Christians of the time of Aretas.] - -NOTE XV. I have as strong objections to the service celebrated by the -Franciscans on the evening of Good Friday, as to that of the Holy Fire. -Like the latter, it gives rise to disputes, tumults, and serious -disorders; and besides, there is in it an utter absence of decorum. -Generally speaking, it has none of the impressive effect of a religious -ceremony, but rather excites a feeling of the ridiculous, when it does -not result in mourning for some fatal accident. How it is that the -Franciscan fathers have not done away with it, or modified it, I cannot -understand. To hold a service in a church to which persons of all sects -are admitted, and to think that men's hearts can be reached by it, is an -utter mistake. When no one is carried out of the building dead or -wounded, they say with a satisfied air, "_The service has passed off -well;_" little thinking of the exertions that are required to make it -pass off well. A battalion of infantry is drawn up under arms in the -square of the Sepulchre, and supplies the guards in the interior of the -church; all the officers are employed to suppress any slight -disturbance; the Governor betakes himself to the church to be ready in -case of any serious outbreak: the French Consul is busy with -preparations two days before, and on the evening of the service he and -his employes are wearied out; the clergy are knocked about by the crowd; -and all this passes off well. - -They ought to remember the year in which human blood was shed on Mount -Calvary; and how in 1861, had it not been for the energy of the French -Consul, and the singular discretion and moderation of General Ducrot, of -the French Corps d'Expedition in Syria, and his forty officers, the -service certainly would not have passed off well. - -NOTE XVI. The short street which connects the two churches of S. Mary -the Great and S. Mary the Less was called, at the time of the Crusades, -_the street of Palms_, because palm-branches were there sold to -pilgrims. A similar traffic goes on at the present day, and on the same -spot, during the feast of Palms; but palms being scarcer than formerly, -olive-branches are generally substituted for them. - -NOTE XVII. The original firman exists in the archives of the Franciscan -Convent of S. Saviour at Jerusalem. Its exact date is not known, but may -be placed between 1014 and 1023. See Bore, Question des Lieux Saints, 5. - -NOTE XVIII. The direction of this street is clearly marked in a paper -published by Sebastian Paoli (Cod. Diplom. I. p. 243), and reproduced by -Schultz, Williams, and De Vogue: "I, Amalric ... have given ... to the -sacred Hospital at Jerusalem, and to the Church of S. Mary the Great, a -certain street which was _between_ the Hospital aforesaid and the Church -of S. Mary the Great aforesaid, to which there is an _entrance on the -north from the Street of Palms_, opposite the front of the Church of the -Holy Sepulchre, and on the south between the two aforesaid houses of the -hospital and of St Mary the Less, which leads also _below the buildings -of the Hospital to the Street of the Patriarch's Baths_...." June, 1174. - - -NOTES TO CHAPTER V. - -NOTE I. See De Vogue, p. 302. We first find it mentioned in La Citez de -Jherusalem, under the name of 'Porte douloureuse.' "When you have gone a -little further on" (after crossing the Street of Jehoshaphat, on the way -from S. Stephen's Gate) "you come to a place where two streets cross: -that which comes from the left comes from the Temple and goes to the -Sepulchre. At the commencement of this street is a gate, on the Temple -side, which is called 'Porte douloureuse:' by it Jesus passed when he -was taken to Calvary to be crucified; and therefore it is called the -gate of mourning." - -NOTE II. "The Sultan, on his return to Jerusalem, increased the -endowment of the school which he had there founded. Before the -occupation by the Mohammedans it had been known as the Church of S. Ann, -the mother of S. Mary; whose tomb is said to have been found there. -Under the Mohammedans it had been turned into a school, before the -Franks made themselves masters of the city. They had restored the church -to its former position, but the Sultan, having conquered the Franks, -again changed it into a school, whose management and revenues he -entrusted to Bohaddin, son of Sieddad." Abulfeda, Annales Moslemici, -from Reiske's translation. - -NOTE III. The Church of the Holy Cross is superior to that of S. Ann in -the simplicity of its ornamentation, answering to the description of M. -de Vogue (p. 241): "Some persons have thought they saw in the poverty -and simplicity of the ornamentation a proof of Byzantine influence. I -would rather attribute it partly to the want of sculptors, and partly to -the influence of the Cistercians, which seems to have been brought to -bear on the foundation and building of the monastery." The latter -statement he illustrates by a note which I will also quote: "S. Bernard -took a lively interest in all that occurred in the Holy Land, and -exercised much influence thereon by his letters. He was in constant -correspondence with Queen Milisendis (1130-1150), with the Patriarch, -and with the Templars--the rules of whose order he helped to draw up. It -was well known how sternly he had denounced the excessive adorning of -churches, and how rigorously the Cistercian order applied his -principles. The connexion of S. Bernard with Milisendis, who was the -chief benefactress of the Convent of S. Ann, _leads me to suppose_ that -his views may have been followed in the building of the Church of S. -Ann, and of the monastery. See in M. de Verneuil's L'Architecture -Byzantine en France (Plate XIII.), the design of the Cistercian Abbey at -Boschaud, built in 1154. The general form is not the same with that of -S. Ann, but the style is identical. Further there are also the pilasters -of the binding joists ending in corbelling." I would gladly assent to M. -de Vogue's hypothesis--but I cannot; for in S. Bernard's correspondence -there is no mention at all of the building of the Church of S. Ann. I -allow that the style is identical with that of the Cistercian Abbey: but -certainly the form changes a good deal, because this is not a trapezium -like that of S. Ann. - -NOTE IV. Some idea may be formed of the position which the Franciscans -hold in respect of the local government, from the conditions to which -they were required to submit before they received permission to take up -a residence within the walls of Jerusalem. The following are some of -them: that they would give presents every year to the _Kadi_, the -governor, and to all the members of the Divan: that, when one of them -died, they should not be allowed to carry his body out to burial in the -sight of the Mohammedans, but that he should be wrapt in a carpet, and -carried outside the walls and buried there: that they should never buy -any property in Jerusalem, under pain of its being confiscated and given -to the Mosque of Omar: that the friars should not shew themselves too -frequently in the streets of the city: that the monastery occupied by -them should be inspected every three years by the _Kadi_, the governor, -and his architect, to see whether any changes had been made in the -building. These conditions were rigorously enforced every time that the -local governor was pleased to extort money from the brotherhood, who, of -course, were always in the wrong. (These facts are drawn from the papers -found in the Registry of the Convent of S. Saviour.) - -NOTE V. It is sometimes supposed that the Franciscans carry on a trade -in the articles that are made in the workroom of S. Saviour; but it is -quite a mistake. The friars have these articles made by poor workpeople, -and so give them the means of supporting themselves by their industry; -and any profits that may accrue from the sale are applied to the support -of widows and orphans, as in every other work of charity, which is -constantly carried on by the society. - -NOTE VI. The Greeks, who since the coming of the first Crusaders had -been unjustly robbed of all their other possessions in the Holy Land, -returned thither in 1348, in consequence of a treaty concluded between -the Emperor Cantacuzenus and Naser Eddin Hassan, Sultan of Egypt. They -established a hospice for pilgrims in the Monastery of S. Euthymius, -whilst their servants took up their abode in that of S. Michael the -Archangel. - - -NOTES TO CHAPTER VI. - -NOTE I. The eastern Christians call the Valley of Jehoshaphat in the -language of the country _Wady el-Nar_ (Valley of Fire); a name which is -also given to it by the Mohammedans, from the belief that the general -judgment will take place there. If we interpret the name _Jehoshaphat_ -according to the idea of the Jews, its meaning is _judgment of God_, for -the Chaldee in the passage in Joel (chap. iii. 2, 12, 15), instead of -saying "_in the valley of Jehoshaphat_," translates it thus, "_in the -valley of the division of judgment_." If we are to accept the opinion of -Calmet, that by the valley of Jehoshaphat we are to understand the -_valley of Jezreel_, we cannot believe that the final judgment is to -take place in this valley, which is close under the walls of Jerusalem, -but in that of Jezreel. - -Origen looks upon this general gathering of mankind in a more extended -view than that of Calmet: "Origen thinks that the nations will be -gathered together over the face of the whole earth; and that the -manifestation of Christ will be like to a blaze of light that covers at -once the whole world." S. Jerome expresses himself thus, "It is folly to -seek in a small or secret place for Him who is the light of the whole -world." (Calmet's Commentary on Joel.) Mariti, L'Etat present, &c. p. -132. - -NOTE II. Those who made of the Hebrew word Kidron (Cedron) a Greek word, -fancy that the name may have been derived from some cedars planted in -the neighbourhood; they rely probably on the Greek text of the gospel of -S. John, where the word is written with +o+ instead of +o+, which may be -simply an error of the copyists, as some commentators have remarked; -seeing that in other parts of the Bible it is called Kidron. - -The valley of Kidron begins, on the north, near or a little above the -Tombs of the Kings, at a height of about 2460 feet above the -Mediterranean; at first it is called the Valley of Kidron, or of -Jehoshaphat; then _Wady er-Nahib_ (Valley of the Monks), in the -neighbourhood of the monastery of S. Saba; and lastly, _Wady el-Nar_ -(Valley of Fire), in the last part of its course. The entire descent -from the head of the valley to the Dead Sea is about 3690 vertical feet. -I have traversed it several times on foot with Bedouins, for the sole -purpose of examining all the changes of its sides. Near S. Saba it is -very picturesque. - -NOTE III. Nicephorus Callistus expresses himself thus: "She also raised -another splendid temple in the garden of Gethsemane to the Mother of -God; and enclosed within it her life-giving tomb. Moreover the place -being on a hill-side she erected marble steps, for travellers to pass -from the city eastwards." (Ecclesiastical History, VIII. 30.) - -NOTE IV. These are the words of the empress: "We hear that there is a -noble and splendid church dedicated to Mary, Mother of God and perpetual -Virgin, on the ground called Gethsemane where her body was laid." -Johann. Damascen. Orat. II. de B. M. Assumptione, ap. Quaresm. E. T. S. -Lib. IV. pereg. 7, c. 2, Tom. II. p. 241. - -NOTE V. This is the account of Sebastiano Paoli: "That most venerable -Mount Sion also they have profaned and treated with no respect: the -Temple of the Lord, the church in the Valley of Jehoshaphat, where is -the Sepulchre of the Virgin, the church at Bethlehem, and the place of -our Lord's nativity, they have polluted by enormities too grievous to be -told, exceeding therein the wickedness of all the Saracens." (Seb. -Paoli, Cod. Diplom. del S. Mil. Ord. Gerusal. Said Ebn Batrik, II. 212.) - -NOTE VI. It was Godfrey de Bouillon who brought these monks to Jerusalem -and gave them for their abbey the whole of the Valley of Jehoshaphat. -"The same Godfrey aforesaid had also brought monks from well-disciplined -cloisters, religious men, and distinguished by their holy conversation, -who during the whole of the journey, day and night, celebrated the -divine offices according to ecclesiastical usage. And when he obtained -the kingdom, he settled them at their own request in the Valley of -Jehoshaphat, and gave them an ample endowment." (William of Tyre, IX. -9.) - -NOTE VII. In which place was a wonderful work built in the earliest -times of the Christian religion, as S. Jerome testifies in his writings. -It surpassed all the other buildings in size, workmanship, and design; -but was afterwards destroyed by the treacherous Gentiles: its ruins are -to be seen even to this day. Bongars, p. 574. De Vogue says that the -author grounds his statement wrongly on an apocryphal letter of S. -Jerome. See Quaresmius, E. T. S. Tom. II. p. 244. - -NOTE VIII. Brocardus writes: "The Sepulchre of the Virgin is covered -with earth to such an extent that the church built upon its site, though -its walls were lofty, and it had a noble roof, is now entirely buried -underground.... There was built, however, on the same site, and _upon -the surface of the ground_, a church or a building like a chapel, after -the repairing of the city. Having entered this, you will descend by -several steps _underground_ to the aforementioned church and the Tomb -of the Virgin; if I am not mistaken there are sixty steps. The tomb is -in the middle of the choir and in front of a marble altar beautifully -decorated, which the Saracens too most devoutly worship, falling down -before it and kissing it, and in a loud voice, as is their custom, -praying for the intercession of the Holy Virgin. I have been inside the -Sepulchre itself." - -Willibrand (Leo Allat. Sym. p. 149) says, "We saw a church richly -adorned and in its midst a monument, covered on all sides with white, -i.e. virgin, marble." - -NOTE IX. Father Geraldo Calvetti, guardian and keeper of Mount Sion, -took possession of the Sepulchre. The document which proves this is -found in the archives of the convent of S. Saviour at Jerusalem, under -the letter C. Quaresmius, I. 181: "These things were done at Jerusalem -before the gate and entrance of the said church of Our Blessed Lady of -the Valley of Jehoshaphat." - -NOTE X. A firman, granted in 1852, allows the Latins to hold service in -the Sepulchre of the Virgin, after the Greeks and the Armenians, -enjoining upon them at the same time to take away on each occasion the -objects of worship. This firman, amongst the many false statements that -it makes, contains a few lines which are worth quoting: "it is just to -confirm the permission granted at all times to the Christians of the -Catholic rite to exercise their own form of worship in this place." In -spite of these previous concessions, &c. the Latins had been totally -driven out from it. Of what use are firmans when they are acquired at -will by presents of gold? - -NOTE XI. Father Morone[903], Guardian of the Holy Land, relates that -towards the middle of the seventeenth century some tombstones were found -near the entrance of the Grotto of the Agony; and on them were -inscriptions belonging to the Latin Christians; but that he himself, who -had the oversight of the work, did not let them be uncovered, from fear -lest the Turks should take possession of them. If he had only taken a -copy of these epitaphs, we might possibly know the resting-place of some -of the more distinguished Crusaders. However, I conclude, from the fact -that he relates, that the existing passage was made at that time. - -NOTE XII. In 1857 I obtained leave from the Superior of the Greek -convent to draw the ground-plan of the church. I set to work, and got as -far as the Armenian Chapel of S. Joseph, when the Armenian lay-keeper of -the chapel wished to hinder my continuing my work; I asked him as a -favour to let me go on, and offered him an acknowledgment, but he only -became more annoying still. At last I tried force, compelled him to -return to his sacristy, set a European servant to watch at the door, -and, regardless of his cries, persisted in my work. I mention this to -shew how great difficulties are met with, even amongst Christians of -other sects, in conducting any investigations respecting the monuments -that belong to them. - -NOTE XIII. The olive-trees of the Garden of Gethsemane, says -Chateaubriand (Itineraire, Vol. II.), belong at any rate to the later -empire. In Turkey, every olive-tree found already planted when the Turks -invaded Asia, pays a tax of a medino; those that have been planted since -the conquest pay to the Sultan the half of their fruit. Now, the eight -olive-trees of Gethsemane are taxed at eight medini. - -NOTE XIV. The various elevations of the hills, and other special -localities of Jerusalem and its neighbourhood, are drawn in section. -(Plate IV.) - -NOTE XV. The Jews had derived the worship of Moloch from the Canaanites. -Moloch and Saturn appear to have been the same deity: the way in which -they were worshipped is the same. The Carthaginians, who were descended -from the Canaanites, offered human victims to Saturn. "There was in -their city," says Diodorus Siculus (Book XX. chap. 14), "a bronze statue -representing Cronos (Saturn): it had its hands spread out, and bent down -towards the ground, so that the child that was put in its hands, rolling -itself up, fell into a fiery furnace." These cruel sacrifices continued -to prevail in Africa till the time of the Emperor Tiberius (Tertullian, -Apol. IX.). From Syria the practice passed into Europe. Agathocles, king -of Sicily, sacrificed two hundred children of the noblest families to -his deity, believing him to be angry. (Pescennius Festus in Lactant. -Divin. Instit. I. 21.) - -The Rabbi Simon, in his commentary on Jeremiah (viii.), gives the -following description of the idol Moloch: "All the idol temples were in -the city of Jerusalem, except that of Moloch, which was in a place set -apart outside the city. It was a statue of bronze with the head of an -ox, and with the hands stretched out like those of a man who wishes to -receive something from another; within it was quite hollow. Before the -image were seven chapels; he who offered a dove, or any other bird, went -into the first; he who gave a lamb, or a sheep, into the second; into -the third for a wether; into the fourth for a calf; into the fifth for a -bull; into the sixth for an ox; while he who sacrificed his own son -entered the seventh chapel and embraced the idol, as it is said in Hosea -(xiii. 2), 'Let the men that sacrifice kiss the calves.' The child was -set before the idol, beneath which a fire was kindled, till the bronze -became red hot; then the priest took the child, and put it between the -burning hands of Moloch, while the parents were bound to witness the -sacrifice without any expression of feeling. To prevent the cries of the -victims reaching them, drums and gongs were sounded! from this comes the -name _Topheth_, which signifies a drum. It was also called _Hinnom_, -because of the cries of the children, from _naham_, to cry, or, -according to another interpretation from the words which the priest used -to address to the parents, _Jehenelach_--this will be of service to -thee. King Josiah, in order to render the place an object of horror, -'defiled Topheth, which is in the valley of the sons of Hinnom, that no -man might make his son or his daughter to pass through the fire to -Moloch' (2 Kings xxiii. 10)." - -NOTE XVI. So when Solomon is spoken of, it is said, "Solomon slept with -his fathers, and was buried in the city of David, his father" (1 Kings -xi. 43); and the same formula is used of the kings Rehoboam, Abijam, -Jehoshaphat, Ahaziah, Jehoiada, the priest (2 Chron. xxiv. 16), and the -kings Amaziah, Jotham, Josiah; while in the case of the rest different -expressions are used. Asa was buried "in his own sepulchres, which he -had made for himself in the city of David" (2 Chron. xvi. 14); therefore -he was not buried with his fathers. Jehoram was buried "in the city of -David, but not in the sepulchres of the kings" (2 Chron. xxi. 20). The -place of burial of the usurper Athaliah is not mentioned. Joash, in 2 -Kings xii. 21, is buried "with his fathers in the city of David," while -in 2 Chron. xxiv. 25, it is said that "they buried him not in the -sepulchres of the kings." Uzziah "they buried with his fathers in the -field of the burial which belonged to the kings; for they said, He is a -leper" (2 Chron. xxvi. 23). Ahaz they "buried in the city, _even_ at -Jerusalem: but they brought him not into the sepulchres of the kings of -Israel" (2 Chron. xxviii. 27). Hezekiah was buried "in the highest of -the sepulchres of the sons of David" (2 Chron. xxxii. 33). Manasseh "was -buried in the garden of his own house, in the garden of Uzza;" as also -was Amon, his successor (2 Kings xxi. 18, 26). Jehoahaz died in Egypt (2 -Kings xxiii. 34). Eliakim, or Jehoiachim, according to Jeremiah (xxii. -19), is to be "buried with the burial of an ass, drawn and cast forth -beyond the gates of Jerusalem;" and (xxxvi. 30), "his dead body shall be -cast out in the day to the heat, and in the night to the frost;" from -all which we may the more certainly conclude that the sepulchres of the -other kings were within the gates of Jerusalem. Lastly, we have -Jehoiachin and Zedekiah led captive to Babylon, where they died. - -NOTE XVII. Bede, who wrote in the eighth century (on the authority of -Arculf), calls the building of the Coenaculum a large church. In his -time there was in the neighbourhood a convent of monks. He says: "On the -upper part of Mount Sion there is a large church, surrounded by a great -number of monks' cells. The church was founded, it is said, by the -apostles, because it was there that they received the Holy Ghost, and -that Mary died. They shew there to this day the memorable place which -was the scene of our Lord's supper. In the middle of the church is a -column of marble, to which Jesus was bound when He was scourged." - - -FOOTNOTES: - -[900] Persons who have seen them have told me that they were of the -veined red breccia of Palestine. - -[901] These three inscriptions were traced in characters of the 12th -century. - -[902] Lib. VII. ad fin. p. 289, ed. Bonn. - -[903] Mariano Morone da Maleo, Terra Santa nuovamente illustrata. -Piacenza, 1669, 4to. - - - - -CHRONOLOGICAL SUMMARY - -OF THE HISTORY AND EVENTS OF JERUSALEM. - - - B.C. - - 1913 Melchizedek, king of Salem, receives Abram at the Valley of - Shaveh, which is the King's Dale Gen. xiv. 17, 18. - - 1872 Sacrifice of Isaac on Mount Moriah _Ib._ xxii. 2-14. - - 1451 Adonizedek king of Jerusalem Josh. x. 1. - - 1444 The descendants of Judah dwell among the Jebusites at - Jerusalem _Ib._ xv. 63. - - 1425 The descendants of Benjamin dwell among the Jebusites at - Jerusalem Judges i. 21. - - -- Jebus, the city of the Jebusites, is - Jerusalem _Ib._ xix. 10, 11. - - 1050 David reigns in Jerusalem over all Israel and Judah - 2 Sam. v. 5. - - 1023 Death of Absalom, and his Pillar in the King's Dale - _Ib._ xviii. 14, 18. - - 1017 The prophets, Nathan and Gad, at Jerusalem - _Ib._ xxiv. 11; 1 Kings i. 11. - - -- David buys the Threshing-floor of Araunah the Jebusite, and - builds there an Altar to God 2 Sam. xxiv. 24, 25. - - -- Solomon proclaimed king at Jerusalem 1 Kings i. 39. - - 1015 Death of David, after 40 years' reign _Ib._ ii. 10, 11. - - 1014 Solomon begins to build the Temple _Ib._ vi. 1. - - 1007 The Temple finished _Ib._ vi. 38. - - 1004 Dedication of Solomon's Temple _Ib._ viii. 63. - - 992 Solomon forsakes God, and builds a high place to Chemosh, &c. - _Ib._ xi. 7. - - 977 Death of Solomon, after 40 years' reign _Ib._ xi. 42, 43. - - -- Division of the Kingdom. Rehoboam, king of Judah, reigns 17 - years _Ib._ xii. 17; xiv. 21. - - 973 Shishak, king of Egypt, besieges and takes Jerusalem - _Ib._ xiv. 25, 26. - - 960 Abijam, king of Judah, reigns 3 years _Ib._ xv. 1, 2. - - 958 Asa, king of Judah, reigns 41 years _Ib._ xv. 9, 10. - - 917 Jehoshaphat, king of Judah, reigns 25 years _Ib._ xxii. 42. - - 896 The prophet Elijah taken up to heaven. Elisha the prophet - 2 Kings ii. 11, 12. - - 892 Joram, king of Judah, reigns 8 years _Ib._ viii. 16, 17. - - 887 The Philistines and Arabians pillage Judah - 2 Chron. xxi. 16, 17. - - 885 Ahaziah, king of Judah, reigns 1 year 2 Kings viii. 25, 26. - - 884 Usurpation of the throne by Athaliah; reigns 6 years - _Ib._ xi. 1, 3. - - 878 Jehoash, king of Judah, reigns 40 years _Ib._ xii. 1. - - 856 Repairs of the Temple _Ib._ xii. 11-14. - - 840 Hazael, king of Syria, threatens Jerusalem _Ib._ xii. 18. - - 839 Amaziah, king of Judah, reigns 29 years _Ib._ xiv. 1, 2. - - 838 Jehoash, king of Israel, comes to Jerusalem as a conqueror - _Ib._ xiv. 17. - - 811 Azariah, king of Judah, reigns 52 years _Ib._ xv. 2. - - 787 The Prophet Amos Amos i. 1. - - 785 The Prophet Hosea Hosea i. 1. - - 759 Jotham, king of Judah, reigns 16 years; fortifies Ophel - 2 Kings xv. 32; 2 Chr. xxvii. 3. - - 743 Ahaz, king of Judah, reigns 16 years _Ib._ xvi. 2. - - -- Isaiah the Prophet. Micah the Prophet, in the days of Jotham - Isai. i. 1; Micah i. 1. - - 727 Hezekiah, king of Judah, reigns 29 years 2 Kings xviii. 2. - - 714 Judah invaded by Sennacherib the Assyrian _Ib._ xviii. 13. - - 713 Destruction of Sennacherib's army 2 Kings xix. 35. - - 698 Manasseh, king of Judah, reigns 55 years; fortifies Ophel - _Ib._ xxi. 1; 2 Chr. xxxiii. 14. - - 643 Amon, king of Judah, reigns 2 years _Ib._ xxi. 19. - - 641 Josiah, king of Judah, reigns 31 years _Ib._ xxii. 1. - - 629 The prophet Jeremiah Jer. i. 2. - - -- The prophet Zephaniah Zephan. i. 1. - - 624 The Book of the Law found 2 Kings xxii. 8. - - 610-9 Josiah killed by Pharaoh-nechoh, king of Egypt - _Ib._ xxiii. 29. - - -- Jehoahaz, king of Judah, reigns 3 months _Ib._ xxiii. 31. - - -- Jehoiachim (Eliakim), king of Judah, reigns 11 years - _Ib._ xxiii. 34, 36. - - 606-5 Nebuchadnezzar, king of Babylon, subdues Judea. Epoch - generally used to indicate the commencement of the Seventy - years' Captivity in Babylon _Ib._ xxiv. 1. - - 599-8 Jehoiachin, king of Judah, reigns 3 months. Jerusalem taken by - Nebuchadnezzar. _Ib._ xxiv. 12. - - -- Zedekiah, king of Judah under the Chaldeans, reigns 11 years - _Ib._ xxiv. 18. - - 595 The Vision of the Prophet Ezekiel, in the thirtieth year after - the reformation of Josiah, by the river Chebar, in Babylon - Ezekiel i. 1. - - 589 The city of Jerusalem besieged by Nebuchadnezzar - 2 Kings xxv. 1, 2. - - 588 Jeremiah in prison Jer. xxxvii. 15. - - 587 Destruction of Jerusalem; Zedekiah taken prisoner; the people - carried captive to Babylon 2 Kings xxv. 6, 9-11. - - 536 Return of the Jews to Jerusalem with Zerubbabel in the 1st - year of the reign of Cyrus Ezra i. 1; ii. 2. - - 521 The building of the Temple interrupted by order of Smerdis, - called by Ezra, Artaxerxes _Ib._ iii. 8; iv. 1, 21, 24. - - 520 Recommencement of the building of the Temple in the 2nd year - of Darius, king of Persia _Ib._ iv. 24; vi. 7-14. - - 517 Completion and Dedication of the Temple _Ib._ vi. 15, 16. - - 457 Ezra goes to Judea with many of the Jews, by order of - Artaxerxes _Ib._ vii. 1-8. - - 444 Nehemiah returns to Jerusalem, rebuilds the walls, and governs - the city until 432 Nehem. i. 1; ii. 1; iii. - - 332 The great high-priest Jaddua receives Alexander the Great at - Jerusalem. - - -- Palestine under Greek and Roman Dominion. - - 323 Ptolemy, one of the generals of Alexander the Great, surprises - and takes Jerusalem. - - 320 Many Jews in captivity at Alexandria. - - 314 Antiochus the Great subdues Palestine. - - 301 Ptolemy Epiphanes recovers Palestine. - - 292 Death of Simon the Just. - - 170 Antiochus Epiphanes lays waste the city of Jerusalem, pillages - the Temple, and builds a fortress to command it. - - 167 Mattathias begins the war of Jewish Independence. - - 165 Judas Maccabeus delivers his Country, purifies and restores - the Temple at Jerusalem. - - 164 Antiochus Eupator besieges the Temple at Jerusalem. - - 160 Jonathan succeeds his brother, Judas Maccabeus. - - 144 Jonathan undertakes to fortify Jerusalem. - - 143 Simon Maccabeus, general of the Jews, delivers his Nation from - Macedonian servitude; takes the fortress commanding the - Temple, which he razes to the ground, and destroys the hill - upon which it was built. - - 135 Simon Maccabeus treacherously killed. - - 129 Antiochus Soter besieges Hyrcanus in Jerusalem. Hyrcanus - causes the Sepulchre of David to be opened, and takes from - it three thousand talents. - - 107 Aristobulus, the eldest son of Hyrcanus, prince of the Jews, - causes himself to be crowned king. Death of his brother - Antigonus in the subterranean passages of Strato's Tower at - Jerusalem. - - 79 Death of Alexander Janneus. - - 65 Aretas, king of Arabia, besieges Aristobulus in Jerusalem. - - 64-63 Pompey besieges the Temple of Jerusalem. - - 63 After a siege of three months Pompey carries the Temple by - assault. - - 54 Crassus pillages the Temple of Jerusalem. - - 47 Caesar permits Hyrcanus to rebuild the Walls of Jerusalem. - - 44 Herod besieges Jerusalem. - - 43 Cassius in Judea. - - 40 Jerusalem taken by the Parthians; Phazaelus killed. - - -- Herod besieges Jerusalem; is proclaimed king at Rome. - - 38 Herod, assisted by Sosius, takes Jerusalem by storm. - - 17 Herod rebuilds the Temple and the fortress of Baris, which he - calls Antonia. In the upper town he builds the Caesarean and - Agrippan palaces, and excavates a subterranean passage from - the Tower Antonia to the Eastern gate of the Temple. - - 12 Herod causes the Sepulchre of David to be opened. - - 7 Herod causes his sons, Alexander and Aristobulus, to be - condemned in a large assembly at Berytus. - - 5 Sabinus at Jerusalem seizes the treasures left by Herod. - - 4 Birth of Jesus Christ. The Vulgar Era commences four years - later. - - 4 Death of Herod, who is interred at Herodium, and succeeded by - Archelaus. - - * * * * * - - A.D. - - 26 Death of Augustus, succeeded by Tiberius. - - -- Pilate supplies Jerusalem with water by means of Aqueducts. - - 28 Jesus Christ keeps the second Passover at Jerusalem. - - 31 Death of Jesus Christ. - - 37 Birth of Flavius Josephus at Jerusalem. - - 38 Agrippa named king of the Jews by Caius Caligula. - - 42 Claudius confirms Agrippa's title as king. - - 44 King Agrippa begins to fortify Jerusalem, but is forbidden to - continue the work by the emperor Claudius. - - -- Izates, king of Adiabene, and queen Helena, his mother, - embrace Judaism. - - 46 Death of Herod, king of Chalcis. The emperor Claudius gives - his dominions to Agrippa, son of king Agrippa the Great. - - 47 The insolence of a Roman soldier causes the death of twenty - thousand Jews at Jerusalem. - - 52 Death of the emperor Claudius. Nero succeeds him. - - 60 King Agrippa builds an apartment whence he can see all that - goes on in the precincts of the Temple. - - 62 Ananias, the high-priest, puts S. James to death. - - 65 Albinus and Gessius Florus persecute the Jews. - - 66 Cestius Gallus enters Jerusalem, and would have taken the - Temple, had he not imprudently raised the siege. - - -- Cestius defeated at Gibeon by the Jews. - - -- The Christian Jews, guided by their bishop, Simon, retire - beyond the Jordan, to the town of Pella. (See Eusebius, - Hist. Eccles. III. 5.) - - -- The Jews prepare for war with the Romans. The emperor Nero - confers the command of his Syrian armies upon Vespasian, to - make war upon the Jews. - - 67 Vespasian and Titus proceed to Ptolemais with an army of - sixty thousand men. - - -- Flavius Josephus made prisoner by Vespasian. - - 68 Vespasian begins to blockade Jerusalem. - - -- Flavius Josephus set at liberty by Vespasian, who is now - become emperor. - - 69 Vespasian despatches Titus to Judea, to take Jerusalem. - - 70 Titus arrives at Jerusalem, in which place Simon had ten - thousand men, besides five thousand Idumeans. John had - eight thousand four hundred men. Total twenty-three - thousand four hundred. - - -- Titus takes the city of Jerusalem, and reduces it to ruins. - - -- Titus returns to view Jerusalem. - - 136-8 Hadrian rebuilds Jerusalem, and calls it Aelia Capitolina. - - 306 Constantine proclaimed emperor. - - 326 The emperor Constantine and his mother Helena build many - churches in Palestine. - - 335 The Church of the Holy Sepulchre completed. - - 363 Under the reign of Julian the Apostate the Jews attempt to - rebuild the Temple. - - 396 Palestine a province of the Eastern Empire. - - 420 Patriarchate of Tiberius came to an end under Theodosius II. - - 436 Under the reign of Marcian, the general Council of Chalcedon - raises the Church of Jerusalem to the Patriarchal dignity. - - 527-565 Justinian, emperor of the East, builds churches in Palestine. - - 614 Chosroes II. enters Palestine and destroys the Church of the - Holy Sepulchre at Jerusalem. - - 629 The emperor Heraclius carries back to Jerusalem the wood of - the Cross restored by Chosroes. - - -- The Greek monk, Modestus, afterwards Patriarch, determines to - rebuild the Church of the Sepulchre. - - 636 Omar becomes master of Jerusalem under a capitulation arranged - with Sophronius the patriarch. - - 637 Omar orders the construction of a Mosque upon the site of the - Jewish Temple, and converts the basilica of S. Mary of - Justinian into the Mosque el-Aksa. - - 687-690 The Caliph Abd-el-Melik Ibn-Merwan erects the Mosque of Omar. - - 748 and subsequently. The Christians inhabit a separate quarter - of Jerusalem, and pay tribute. - - 786-809 Haroun-er-Raschid presents the keys of the Holy Sepulchre to - Charlemagne, king of the French. - - 842 Under the Caliphate of Al-Motassim, Tamim, surnamed Abu-Harb, - marches to Jerusalem and threatens to burn the churches, - but retires after receiving a sum of money. - - 878 Syria and Palestine conquered by Ahmed-ben-Touloun. - - 929-950 Interruption of the pilgrimages to Mecca, owing to the - invasion of the Carmathians; the Mosque of Omar at Jerusalem - replaces the Caaba. - - 936 Abubeker-Mohammed, surnamed Ikshide, makes himself master of - Palestine. - - 945 The eunuch Cafour master of Palestine until his death in 968. - - 972 Palestine in the power of Moezz-Ledin-Allah, caliph of the - dynasty of the Fatimites. - - 996 The caliph Al-Hakem-Biamr-Allah ascends the throne of Egypt. - - 1010 Hakem-Biamr-Allah destroys the Church of the Sepulchre at - Jerusalem. - - 1046 The Church of the Sepulchre rebuilt under caliph - Al-Mostanser-Billah. The emperor Constantine Monomachus - gives large sums towards the work. - - 1071 Atsiz takes Jerusalem from caliph Al-Mostanser-Billah, and - pillages many of the churches. - - 1095 Al-Mastaali-Billah, caliph of Egypt, sends an army to - Palestine under the command of Al-Afdhal-ibn-Bedr; Jerusalem - capitulates after 40 days' siege. - - -- At the general Council of Clermont Peter the Hermit appears by - the side of Pope Urban II., and the Crusade is determined. - - 1099 The Crusaders, commanded by Godfrey of Bouillon, take - Jerusalem, Friday, July 15th. - - 1100 Death of Godfrey of Bouillon in the month of July. - - 1118 Death of Baldwin I. - - 1131 Death of Baldwin II. - - -- Under the reign of Baldwin II. the military and religious - orders of S. John, or Hospitalers and Knights of the Temple, - are approved by the Pope. - - 1142 Fulk, count of Anjou, dies at Ptolemais. - - 1146 The second Crusade decided upon in the Assembly of Vezelay, - March 31st. Undertaken by Louis VII., king of France, and - Conrad, emperor of Germany, under the pontificate of - Eugenius III. - - 1162 Baldwin III. dies at Beyrout. - - 1173 Death of Amaury. This king witnessed the birth and development - of the power of Saladin. - - 1185 Death of Baldwin IV. - - 1186 Death of Baldwin V. - - 1187 Saladin destroys the army of Guy of Lusignan, July 4. - - -- The Christians of Jerusalem capitulate to Saladin, October - 2nd. - - 1189 Third Crusade under the pontificate of Clement III., Philip - Augustus, king of France, Richard Coeur de Lion, king of - England, Frederic Barbarossa, emperor of Germany. - - 1190 Death of Frederic Barbarossa on the Cydnus. - - 1191 Siege and capture of S. Jean d'Acre by Richard Coeur de Lion - and Philip Augustus. - - 1193 Death of Saladin at Damascus, the night of March 3rd. - - 1203 Fourth Crusade under the pontificate of Innocent III. - - 1205 Amaury II. dies in the Spring. - - 1212 Crusade of the fifty thousand children. - - 1217 Fifth Crusade under the pontificate of Honorius III. - - 1219 Francis of Assisi in Palestine. - - 1229 Sixth Crusade under the pontificate of Gregory IX. The sultan, - Malek-Kamel, cedes Jerusalem to Frederic without combat. - - 1239 The Christians reconstruct the ramparts of Jerusalem, with - Thibaut, count of Champagne, and king of Navarre; but the - prince of Kerek enters the city and destroys the new - fortifications and the Tower of David. - - 1240 Richard of Cornwall, brother of Henry III., king of England, - arrives in Palestine with an army of English Crusaders. - - 1244 The Tartars under Gengis Khan take and destroy Jerusalem. - - -- Palestine remains in possession of the Egyptians. - - 1248 Louis IX. undertakes a Crusade under the pontificate of - Innocent IV. - - 1254 Louis IX. abandons Palestine upon the news of queen Blanche's - death. - - 1270 Louis IX. undertakes a fresh Crusade. - - -- Louis IX. dies at Tunis, August 25th. - - 1271 Prince Edward, son of Henry III. of England, in the East. He - is wounded with a dagger by an emissary of the Old Man of - the Mountain, but is saved by the princess Eleanor, his - wife. - - 1291 The Crusaders lose S. Jean d'Acre, their last possession in - Palestine. - - 1313 Robert of Anjou, king of Naples, causes the disciples of - S. Francis of Assisi to be admitted into Jerusalem. - - 1491 The Franciscans of Mount Sion dispersed in the reign of sultan - Malec-dhaher-djahmak. - - 1517-18 Selim I., sultan of Constantinople, conquers Syria and - Palestine. - - 1534 Sultan Solyman, son of Selim I., builds the wall of the city, - together with many edifices and fountains. - - 1799 Napoleon Bonaparte in Palestine. - - 1832 Conquest of Syria and Palestine by Ibrahim Pasha. - - 1841 Syria and Palestine restored to the Sultan. - - 1859 Surraya Pasha, governor of Palestine, subdues the chiefs of - the country, and restores tranquillity. - - 1860 Massacre of the Christians in the Lebanon and at Damascus. - Palestine remains tranquil under the good government of - Surraya Pasha. - - - - -PRINCIPAL PASSAGES FROM THE HOLY BIBLE - -BEARING UPON THE STATEMENTS IN THE TEXT. - - -GENESIS. - -[Sidenote: Valley of Shaveh, which is the king's dale.] - -"And the king of Sodom went out to meet him after his return from the -slaughter of Chedorlaomer, and of the kings that were with him, at the -valley of Shaveh, which is the king's dale." xiv. 17. (page 1.) - -[Sidenote: Salem.] - -"And Melchizedek king of Salem brought forth bread and wine." xiv. 18. -(p. 1.) - -[Sidenote: Moriah.] - -"And he said, Take now thy son, thine only son Isaac, whom thou lovest, -and get thee into the land of Moriah; and offer him there for a burnt -offering upon one of the mountains which I will tell thee of." xxii. 2. -(pp. 17, 46.) - -[Sidenote: Jehovah-jireh.] - -"And Abraham called the name of that place Jehovah-jireh: as it is said -to this day, In the mount of the Lord it shall be seen." xxii. 14. (pp. -17, 46.) - - -EXODUS. - -[Sidenote: Altar of stone.] - -"And if thou wilt make me an altar of stone, thou shalt not build it of -hewn stone: for if thou lift up thy tool upon it, thou hast polluted -it." xx. 25. (p. 54.) - -"Neither shalt thou go up by steps unto mine altar, that thy nakedness -be not discovered thereon." xx. 26. (p. 89.) - - -LEVITICUS. - -[Sidenote: Altar.] - -"And he shall kill it on the side of the altar northward before the -Lord: and the priests, Aaron's sons, shall sprinkle his blood round -about upon the altar." i. 11. (pp. 50, 89.) - -[Sidenote: Place of the ashes.] - -"And he shall pluck away his crop with his feathers, and cast it beside -the altar on the east part, by the place of the ashes." i. 16. (pp. 50, -92.) - - -DEUTERONOMY. - -[Sidenote: Altar of stones.] - -"And there shalt thou build an altar unto the Lord thy God, an altar of -stones: thou shalt not lift up any iron tool upon them." xxvii. 5. (p. -54.) - -[Sidenote: Of whole stones.] - -"Thou shalt build the altar of the Lord thy God of whole stones: and -thou shalt offer burnt offerings thereon unto the Lord thy God." xxvii. -6. (p. 54.) - - -JOSHUA. - -[Sidenote: Jerusalem.] - -"Now it came to pass, when Adoni-zedek king of Jerusalem had heard how -Joshua had taken Ai," &c. x. 1. (pp. 1, 2.) - -[Sidenote: Jebusites.] - -"As for the Jebusites the inhabitants of Jerusalem, the children of -Judah could not drive them out: but the Jebusites dwell with the -children of Judah at Jerusalem unto this day." xv. 63. (p. 2.) - -[Sidenote: Valley of the son of Hinnom.] - -[Sidenote: Valley of the giants. En-Rogel.] - -"And the border came down to the end of the mountain that lieth before -the valley of the son of Hinnom, and which is in the valley of the -giants on the north, and descended to the valley of Hinnom, to the side -of Jebusi on the south, and descended to En-rogel." xviii. 16. (pp. 17, -22, 188, 204, 290.) - - -JUDGES. - -[Sidenote: Jebusites that inhabited Jerusalem.] - -"And the children of Benjamin did not drive out the Jebusites that -inhabited Jerusalem; but the Jebusites dwell with the children of -Benjamin in Jerusalem unto this day." i. 21. (pp. 2, 22.) - -[Sidenote: Jebus, which is Jerusalem.] - -"But the man would not tarry that night, but he rose up and departed, -and came over against Jebus, which is Jerusalem; and there were with him -two asses saddled, his concubine also was with him." xix. 10. (p. 1.) - - -2 SAMUEL. - -[Sidenote: David went to Jerusalem.] - -"And the king and his men went to Jerusalem unto the Jebusites, the -inhabitants of the land: which spake unto David, saying, Except thou -take away the blind and the lame, thou shalt not come in hither: -thinking, David cannot come in hither." v. 6. (pp. 2, 16, 22.) - -[Sidenote: Stronghold of Zion. City of David.] - -"Nevertheless David took the stronghold of Zion: the same is the city of -David." v. 7. (pp. 2, 16, 22, 210.) - -[Sidenote: Millo.] - -"So David dwelt in the fort, and called it the city of David. And David -built round about from Millo and inward." v. 9. (pp. 2, 16, 22, 23, 24, -210.) - -[Sidenote: Hiram. Masons.] - -"And Hiram king of Tyre sent messengers to David, and cedar-trees, and -carpenters, and masons: and they built David an house." v. 11. (p. 22.) - -[Sidenote: Valley of Rephaim.] - -"The Philistines also came and spread themselves in the valley of -Rephaim." v. 18. (p. 194.) - -[Sidenote: Mount Olivet.] - -"And David went up by the ascent of mount Olivet, and wept as he went -up," &c. xv. 30. (p. 21.) - -[Sidenote: Absalom.] - -"And they took Absalom, and cast him into a great pit in the wood, and -laid a very great heap of stones upon him; and all Israel fled every one -to his tent." xviii. 17. (p. 182.) - -[Sidenote: His place.] - -"Now Absalom in his lifetime had taken and reared up for himself a -pillar, which is in the king's dale: for he said, I have no son to keep -my name in remembrance: and he called the pillar after his own name: and -it is called unto this day, Absalom's place." xviii. 18. (pp. 47, 182.) - -[Sidenote: Araunah the Jebusite.] - -"And when the angel stretched out his hand upon Jerusalem to destroy it, -the Lord repented him of the evil, and said to the angel that destroyed -the people, It is enough: stay now thine hand. And the angel of the Lord -was by the threshingplace of Araunah the Jebusite." xxiv. 16. (pp. 24, -46.) - -[Sidenote: Altar on his threshingfloor.] - -"And Gad came that day to David, and said unto him, Go up, rear an altar -unto the Lord in the threshingfloor of Araunah the Jebusite." xxiv. 18. -(pp. 24, 46.) - -"So David bought the threshingfloor and the oxen for fifty shekels of -silver." xxiv. 24. (pp. 24, 46.) - -"And David built there an altar unto the Lord, and offered burnt -offerings and peace offerings. So the Lord was intreated for the land, -and the plague was stayed from Israel." xxiv. 25. (pp. 24, 46.) - - -1 KINGS. - -[Sidenote: En-Rogel.] - -"And Adonijah slew sheep and oxen and fat cattle by the stone of -Zoheleth, which is by En-rogel, and called all his brethren the king's -sons, and all the men of Judah the king's servants." i. 9. (pp. 188, -290.) - -[Sidenote: Gihon.] - -"So Zadok the priest, and Nathan the prophet, and Benaiah the son of -Jehoiada, and the Cherethites, and the Pelethites, went down, and caused -Solomon to ride upon king David's mule, and brought him to Gihon." i. -38. (p. 21.) - -"And Adonijah and all the guests that were with him heard it as they had -made an end of eating. And when Joab heard the sound of the trumpet, he -said, Wherefore is this noise of the city being in an uproar?" i. 41. -(p. 290.) - -[Sidenote: David buried.] - -"So David slept with his fathers, and was buried in the city of David." -ii. 10. (p. 210.) - -[Sidenote: Solomon, and the wall of Jerusalem.] - -"And Solomon made affinity with Pharaoh king of Egypt, and took -Pharaoh's daughter, and brought her into the city of David, until he had -made an end of building his own house, and the house of the Lord, and -the wall of Jerusalem round about." iii. 1. (p. 24.) - -[Sidenote: Builders of Solomon and Hiram.] - -"And Solomon's builders and Hiram's builders did hew them, and the -stonesquarers: so they prepared timber and stones to build the house." -v. 18. (p. 48.) - -[Sidenote: House which king Solomon built for the Lord.] - -"And the house which king Solomon built for the Lord, the length thereof -was threescore cubits, and the breadth thereof twenty cubits, and the -height thereof thirty cubits." vi. 2. (p. 49.) - -[Sidenote: Stone.] - -"And the house, when it was in building, was built of stone made ready -before it was brought thither: so that there was neither hammer nor axe -nor any tool of iron heard in the house, while it was in building." vi. -7. (p. 48.) - -[Sidenote: Oracle.] - -"And the oracle he prepared in the house within, to set there the ark of -the covenant of the Lord." vi. 19. (p. 49.) - -[Sidenote: Altar.] - -"And the oracle in the forepart was twenty cubits in length, and twenty -cubits in breadth, and twenty cubits in the height thereof: and he -overlaid it with pure gold." vi. 20. (p. 49.) - -[Sidenote: Stones.] - -"All these were of costly stones, according to the measures of hewed -stones, sawed with saws, within and without, even from the foundation -unto the coping, and so on the outside toward the great court." vii. 9. -(p. 48.) - -"And the foundation was of costly stones, even great stones, stones of -ten cubits, and stones of eight cubits." vii. 10. (p. 48.) - -[Sidenote: Millo and the wall of Jerusalem.] - -"And this is the reason of the levy which king Solomon raised; for to -build the house of the Lord, and his own house, and Millo, and the wall -of Jerusalem." ix. 15. (pp. 24, 25.) - -"But Pharaoh's daughter came up out of the city of David unto her house -which Solomon had built for her: then did he build Millo." ix. 24. (p. -25.) - -[Sidenote: High places in the hill before Jerusalem.] - -"Then did Solomon build an high place for Chemosh, the abomination of -Moab, in the hill that is before Jerusalem, and for Molech, the -abomination of the children of Ammon." xi. 7. (p. 21, 204.) - -[Sidenote: Millo.] - -"And this was the cause that he lifted up his hand against the king: -Solomon built Millo, and repaired the breaches of the city of David his -father." xi. 27. (pp. 24, 25.) - -[Sidenote: Solomon buried.] - -"And Solomon slept with his fathers, and was buried in the city of David -his father." xi. 43. (p. 310.) - -[Sidenote: Shishak.] - -"And it came to pass in the fifth year of king Rehoboam, that Shishak -king of Egypt came up against Jerusalem." xiv. 25. (pp. 2, 50.) - -[Sidenote: Rehoboam buried.] - -"And Rehoboam slept with his fathers, and was buried with his fathers in -the city of David." xiv. 31. (p. 310.) - - -2 KINGS. - -[Sidenote: Ahaziah buried.] - -"And his servants carried him in a chariot to Jerusalem, and buried him -in his sepulchre with his fathers in the city of David." ix. 28. (p. -310.) - -[Sidenote: Joash, House of Millo, Silla.] - -"And his servants arose, and made a conspiracy, and slew Joash in the -house of Millo, which goeth down to Silla." xii. 20. (pp. 25, 253.) - -[Sidenote: Conduit of upper pool.] - -"And the king of Assyria sent Tartan and Rabsaris and Rab-shakeh from -Lachish to king Hezekiah with a great host against Jerusalem. And they -went up and came to Jerusalem. And when they were come up, they came and -stood by the conduit of the upper pool, which is in the highway of the -fuller's field." xviii. 17. (pp. 39, 241, 252.) - -[Sidenote: The people on the wall.] - -"Then said Eliakim the son of Hilkiah, and Shebna, and Joah, unto -Rab-shakeh, Speak, I pray thee, to thy servants in the Syrian language; -for we understand it: and talk not with us in the Jews' language in the -ears of the people that are on the wall." xviii. 26. (p. 252.) - -[Sidenote: Hezekiah.] - -[Sidenote: Pool. Conduit. Water into the city.] - -"And the rest of the acts of Hezekiah, and all his might, and how he -made a pool, and a conduit, and brought water into the city, are they -not written in the book of the chronicles of the kings of Judah?" xx. -20. (pp. 14, 24, 25, 32.) - -"And Hezekiah slept with his fathers." xx. 21. (p. 310.) - -[Sidenote: Manasseh buried in the garden of Uzza.] - -"And Manasseh slept with his fathers, and was buried in the garden of -his own house, in the garden of Uzza." xxi. 18. (pp. 184, 310.) - -[Sidenote: Amon buried in same place.] - -"And he was buried in his sepulchre in the garden of Uzza." xxi. 26. -(pp. 184, 310.) - -[Sidenote: Huldah.] - -"So Hilkiah the priest, and Ahikam, and Achbor, and Shaphan, and -Asahiah, went unto Huldah the prophetess, the wife of Shallum the son of -Tikvah, the son of Harhas, keeper of the wardrobe; (now she dwelt in -Jerusalem in the college;) and they communed with her." xxii. 14. (pp. -25, 70.) - -[Sidenote: Josiah. The graves of the children of the people.] - -"And he brought out the grove from the house of the Lord, without -Jerusalem, unto the brook Kidron, and burned it at the brook Kidron, and -stamped it small to powder, and cast the powder thereof upon the graves -of the children of the people." xxiii. 6. (pp. 39, 168.) - -[Sidenote: Topheth, Hinnom.] - -"And he defiled Topheth, which is in the valley of the children of -Hinnom, that no man might make his son or his daughter to pass through -the fire to Molech." xxiii. 10. (pp. 21, 310.) - -[Sidenote: Places before Jerusalem.] - -"And the high places that were before Jerusalem, which were on the right -hand of the mount of corruption, which Solomon," &c. xxiii. 13. (p. 21.) - -[Sidenote: Josiah buried.] - -"And his servants carried him in a chariot dead from Megiddo, and -brought him to Jerusalem, and buried him in his own sepulchre." xxiii. -30. (p. 310.) - -[Sidenote: Nebuchadnezzar.] - -"At that time the servants of Nebuchadnezzar king of Babylon came up -against Jerusalem, and the city was besieged." xxiv. 10. (pp. 2, 50.) - -"And he carried away all Jerusalem, and all the princes, and all the -mighty men of valour, even ten thousand captives, and all the craftsmen -and smiths: none remained, save the poorest sort of the people of the -land." xxiv. 14. (pp. 2, 50.) - -[Sidenote: Gate between two walls. King's garden.] - -"And the city was broken up, and all the men of war fled by night by the -way of the gate between two walls, which is by the king's garden: (now -the Chaldees were against the city round about:) and the king went the -way toward the plain." xxv. 4. (pp. 26, 182, 188.) - -[Sidenote: Nebuzar-adan came unto Jerusalem.] - -"And in the fifth month, on the seventh day of the month, which is the -nineteenth year of king Nebuchadnezzar king of Babylon, came -Nebuzar-adan, captain of the guard, a servant of the king of Babylon, -unto Jerusalem." xxv. 8. (p. 2.) - -[Sidenote: Burnt the house of the Lord, &c.] - -"And he burnt the house of the Lord, and the king's house, and all the -houses of Jerusalem, and every great man's house burnt he with fire." -xxv. 9. (pp. 2, 50.) - -[Sidenote: Walls of Jerusalem.] - -"And all the army of the Chaldees, that were with the captain of the -guard, brake down the walls of Jerusalem round about." xxv. 10. (p. 2.) - -[Sidenote: People that remained.] - -"But the captain of the guard left of the poor of the land to be -vinedressers and husbandmen." xxv. 12. (p. 50.) - - -1 CHRONICLES. - -[Sidenote: Castle of Zion. City of David.] - -"And the inhabitants of Jebus said to David, Thou shalt not come hither. -Nevertheless David took the castle of Zion, which is the city of David." -xi. 5. (pp. 2, 16.) - -"And David dwelt in the castle; therefore they called it the city of -David." xi. 7. (p. 22.) - -[Sidenote: Works of David and Joab.] - -"And he built the city round about, even from Millo round about: and -Joab repaired the rest of the city." xi. 8. (pp. 23, 24.) - -[Sidenote: Ornan the Jebusite.] - -"Then the angel of the Lord commanded Gad to say to David, that David -should go up, and set up an altar unto the Lord in the threshingfloor of -Ornan the Jebusite." xxi. 18. (pp. 24, 46.) - -"So David gave to Ornan for the place six hundred shekels of gold by -weight." xxi. 25. (p. 46.) - -[Sidenote: David built there an altar, &c.] - -"And David built there an altar unto the Lord, and offered burnt -offerings and peace offerings, and called upon the Lord; and he answered -him from heaven by fire upon the altar of burnt offering." xxi. 26. (p. -46.) - - -2 CHRONICLES. - -[Sidenote: Moriah.] - -"Then Solomon began to build the house of the Lord at Jerusalem in mount -Moriah, where the Lord appeared unto David his father, in the place that -David had prepared in the threshingfloor of Ornan the Jebusite." iii. 1. -(pp. 17, 24.) - -[Sidenote: House of God.] - -"Now these are the things wherein Solomon was instructed for the -building of the house of God. The length by cubits after the first -measure was threescore cubits, and the breadth twenty cubits." iii. 3. -(p. 48.) - -"And he made the most holy house, the length whereof was according to -the breadth of the house, twenty cubits, and the breadth thereof twenty -cubits." iii. 8. (p. 48.) - -[Sidenote: Altar of brass.] - -"Moreover he made an altar of brass, twenty cubits the length thereof, -and twenty cubits the breadth thereof, and ten cubits the height -thereof." iv. 1. (p. 49.) - -[Sidenote: Solomon buried.] - -"And Solomon slept with his fathers, and he was buried in the city of -David his father: and Rehoboam his son reigned in his stead." ix. 31. -(p. 310.) - -[Sidenote: Asa buried.] - -"And they buried him in his own sepulchres, which he had made for -himself in the city of David, and laid him in the bed which was filled -with sweet odours and divers kinds of spices prepared by the -apothecaries' art: and they made a very great burning for him." xvi. 14. -(p. 310.) - -[Sidenote: Jehoram buried.] - -"Thirty and two years old was he when he began to reign, and he reigned -in Jerusalem eight years, and departed without being desired. Howbeit -they buried him in the city of David, but not in the sepulchres of the -kings." xxi. 20. (p. 310.) - -[Sidenote: Athaliah.] - -"So they laid hands on her; and when she was come to the entering of the -horse gate by the king's house, they slew her there." xxiii. 15. (p. -26.) - -[Sidenote: Joash buried.] - -"And they buried him in the city of David, but they buried him not in -the sepulchres of the kings." xxiv. 25. (p. 310.) - -[Sidenote: Amaziah buried.] - -"And they brought him upon horses, and buried him with his fathers in -the city of Judah." xxv. 28. (p. 310.) - -[Sidenote: Uzziah built towers at the corner gate and valley gate.] - -"Moreover Uzziah built towers in Jerusalem at the corner gate, and at -the valley gate, and at the turning of the wall, and fortified them." -xxvi. 9. (p. 26.) - -[Sidenote: Uzziah buried.] - -"So Uzziah slept with his fathers, and they buried him with his fathers -in the field of the burial which belonged to the kings; for they said, -He is a leper: and Jotham his son reigned in his stead." xxvi. 23. (p. -310.) - -[Sidenote: Jotham. Ophel.] - -"He built the high gate of the house of the Lord, and on the wall of -Ophel he built much." xxvii. 3. (p. 25.) - -[Sidenote: Ahaz buried.] - -"And Ahaz slept with his fathers, and they buried him in the city, even -in Jerusalem: but they brought him not into the sepulchres of the kings -of Israel." xxviii. 27. (p. 310.) - -[Sidenote: Hezekiah stopped the waters of the fountains.] - -"He took counsel with his princes and his mighty men to stop the waters -of the fountains which were without the city: and they did help him." -xxxii. 3. (pp. 241, 252.) - -[Sidenote: The people stopped all the fountains.] - -"So there was gathered much people together, who stopped all the -fountains, and the brook that ran through the midst of the land, saying, -Why should the kings of Assyria come, and find much water?" xxxii. 4. -(pp. 241, 252.) - -[Sidenote: Hezekiah repaired Millo.] - -"Also he strengthened himself, and built up all the wall that was -broken, and raised it up to the towers, and another wall without, and -repaired Millo in the city of David, and made darts and shields in -abundance." xxxii. 5. (pp. 25, 252.) - -[Sidenote: Stopped the upper watercourse of Gihon.] - -"This same Hezekiah also stopped the upper watercourse of Gihon, and -brought it straight down to the west side of the city of David." xxxii. -30. (pp. 21, 241, 251, 252.) - -[Sidenote: Hezekiah buried.] - -"And Hezekiah slept with his fathers, and they buried him in the -chiefest of the sepulchres of the sons of David." xxxii. 33. (p. 310.) - -[Sidenote: Manasseh built on the west side of Gihon. Ophel.] - -"Now after this he built a wall without the city of David, on the west -side of Gihon, in the valley, even to the entering in at the fish gate, -and compassed about Ophel, and raised it up a very great height." -xxxiii. 14. (pp. 2, 17, 21, 26.) - -[Sidenote: Manasseh buried.] - -"So Manasseh slept with his fathers, and they buried him in his own -house: and Amon his son reigned in his stead." xxxiii. 20. (p. 310.) - -[Sidenote: Chaldees burnt the house of God, and brake down the wall of -Jerusalem.] - -"And they burnt the house of God, and brake down the wall of Jerusalem, -and burnt all the palaces thereof with fire, and destroyed all the -goodly vessels thereof." xxxvi. 19. (p. 50.) - - -EZRA. - -[Sidenote: House of God. Zerubbabel.] - -"But many of the priests and Levites and chief of the fathers, who were -ancient men, that had seen the first house, when the foundation of this -house was laid before their eyes, wept with a loud voice; and many -shouted aloud for joy." iii. 12. (p. 51.) - -[Sidenote: Zerubbabel builds the house of God.] - -"Then rose up Zerubbabel, ... and began to build the house of God which -is at Jerusalem: and with them were the prophets of God helping them." -v. 2. (p. 51.) - -[Sidenote: House of God. Cyrus.] - -"In the first year of Cyrus the king the same Cyrus the king made a -decree concerning the house of God at Jerusalem, Let the house be -builded, the place where they offered sacrifices, and let the -foundations thereof be strongly laid; the height thereof threescore -cubits, and the breadth thereof threescore cubits." vi. 3. (p. 51.) - - -NEHEMIAH. - -[Sidenote: Gate of the valley. Dragon well. Dung port.] - -"And I went out by night by the gate of the valley, even before the -dragon well, and to the dung port, and viewed the walls of Jerusalem, -which were broken down, and the gates thereof were consumed with fire." -ii. 13. (pp. 27, 286.) - -[Sidenote: Gate of the fountain. King's pool.] - -"Then I went on to the gate of the fountain, and to the king's pool: but -there was no place for the beast that was under me to pass." ii. 14. (p. -286.) - -[Sidenote: The sheep gate. Tower Meah. Tower Hananeel.] - -"Then Eliashib the high priest rose up with his brethren the priests, -and they builded the sheep gate; they sanctified it, and set up the -doors of it; even unto the tower of Meah they sanctified it, unto the -tower of Hananeel." iii. 1. (p. 27.) - -[Sidenote: Fish gate.] - -"But the fish gate did the sons of Hassenaah build." iii. 3. (p. 27.) - -[Sidenote: Old gate repaired.] - -"Moreover the old gate repaired Jehoiada the son of Paseah, and -Meshullam the son of Besodeiah." iii. 6. (p. 27.) - -[Sidenote: The broad wall.] - -"... and they fortified Jerusalem unto the broad wall." iii. 8. (p. 27.) - -[Sidenote: Tower of the furnaces.] - -"... repaired the other piece, and the tower of the furnaces." iii. 11. -(p. 27.) - -[Sidenote: The valley gate. The dung gate.] - -"The valley gate repaired Hanun, and the inhabitants of Zanoah; they -built it, and set up the doors thereof, the locks thereof, and the bars -thereof, and a thousand cubits on the wall unto the dung gate." iii. 13. -(pp. 27, 286.) - -[Sidenote: The dung gate.] - -"But the dung gate repaired Malchiah." iii. 14. (p. 27.) - -[Sidenote: Gate of the fountain. Pool of Siloah. King's garden. The -stairs, &c.] - -"But the gate of the fountain repaired Shallun ... he built it ... and -the wall of the pool of Siloah by the king's garden, and unto the stairs -that go down from the city of David." iii. 15. (pp. 27, 185, 210.) - -[Sidenote: Sepulchres of David. Pool that was made.] - -"After him repaired Nehemiah ... unto the place over against the -sepulchres of David, and to the pool that was made." iii. 16. (pp. 27, -210.) - -[Sidenote: Ophel. The water gate.] - -"Moreover the Nethinims dwelt in Ophel, unto the place over against the -water gate toward the east, and the tower that lieth out." iii. 26. (p. -27.) - -[Sidenote: Wall of Ophel.] - -"After them the Tekoites repaired another piece, over against the great -tower that lieth out, even unto the wall of Ophel." iii. 27. (p. 27.) - -[Sidenote: The east gate.] - -"... After him repaired also Shemaiah the son of Shechaniah, the keeper -of the east gate." iii. 29. (p. 27.) - -[Sidenote: Building of the wall.] - -"They which builded on the wall, and they that bare burdens, with those -that laded, every one with one of his hands wrought in the work, and -with the other hand held a weapon." iv. 17. (p. 285.) - -[Sidenote: Building of the wall.] - -"For the builders, every one had his sword girded by his side, and so -builded. And he that sounded the trumpet was by me." iv. 18. (p. 285.) - -[Sidenote: Wall finished.] - -"So the wall was finished in the twenty and fifth day of the month Elul, -in fifty and two days." vi. 15. (p. 285.) - -[Sidenote: Plain country round about Jerusalem.] - -"And the sons of the singers gathered themselves together, both out of -the plain country round about Jerusalem, and from the villages of -Netophathi." xii. 28. (p. 43.) - -[Sidenote: Villages round about Jerusalem.] - -"Also from the house of Gilgal, and out of the fields of Geba and -Azmaveth: for the singers had builded them villages round about -Jerusalem." xii. 29. (p. 43.) - -[Sidenote: Dung gate.] - -"Then I brought up the princes of Judah upon the wall, and appointed two -great companies of them that gave thanks, whereof one went on the right -hand upon the wall toward the dung gate." xii. 31. (p. 27.) - -[Sidenote: Fountain and Water gates, Stairs, &c.] - -"And at the fountain gate, which was over against them, they went up by -the stairs of the city of David, at the going up of the wall, above the -house of David, even unto the water gate eastward." xii. 37. (p. 27.) - -[Sidenote: Tower of the furnaces. Broad wall.] - -"And the other company of them that gave thanks went over against them, -and I after them, and the half of the people upon the wall, from beyond -the tower of the furnaces even unto the broad wall." xii. 38. (p. 27.) - -[Sidenote: Gates, and Tower of Hananeel.] - -"And from above the gate of Ephraim, and above the old gate, and above -the fish gate, and the tower of Hananeel, and the tower of Meah, even -unto the sheep gate: and they stood still in the prison gate." xii. 39. -(pp. 27, 144, 286.) - - -ECCLESIASTES. - -[Sidenote: Gardens.] - -"I made me gardens and orchards, and I planted trees in them of all kind -of fruits." ii. 5. (p. 246.) - -[Sidenote: Pools.] - -"I made me pools of water, to water therewith the wood that bringeth -forth trees." ii. 6. (p. 246.) - - -ISAIAH. - -[Sidenote: Upper pool. Fuller's field.] - -"Then said the Lord unto Isaiah, Go forth now to meet Ahaz, thou, and -Shear-jashub thy son, at the end of the conduit of the upper pool in the -highway of the fuller's field." vii. 3. (pp. 241, 251.) - -[Sidenote: Waters of Shiloah.] - -"Forasmuch as this people refuseth the waters of Shiloah that go softly, -and rejoice in Rezin and Remaliah's son." viii. 6. (p. 185.) - -[Sidenote: Lower pool.] - -"Ye have seen also the breaches of the city of David, that they are -many: and ye gathered together the waters of the lower pool." xxii. 9. -(p. 209.) - -[Sidenote: Of the old pool.] - -"Ye made also a ditch between the two walls for the water of the old -pool: but ye have not looked unto the maker thereof, neither had respect -unto him that fashioned it long ago." xxii. 11. (p. 31.) - -[Sidenote: Kings of Assyria. Conduit of upper pool. Fuller's field.] - -"And the king of Assyria sent Rab-shakeh from Lachish to Jerusalem unto -king Hezekiah with a great army. And he stood by the conduit of the -upper pool in the highway of the fuller's field." xxxvi. 2. (p. 39.) - -[Sidenote: People on the wall.] - -"Then said Eliakim and Shebna and Joah unto Rab-shakeh, Speak, I pray -thee, unto thy servants in the Syrian language; for we understand it: -and speak not to us in the Jews' language, in the ears of the people -that are on the wall." xxxvi. 11. (p. 252.) - -"Then the angel of the Lord went forth, and smote in the camp of the -Assyrians a hundred and fourscore and five thousand: and when they arose -early in the morning, behold, they were all dead corpses." xxxvii. 36. -(p. 241.) - - -JEREMIAH. - -[Sidenote: Tophet. Hinnom.] - -"Therefore, behold, the days come, saith the Lord, that it shall no more -be called Tophet, nor the valley of the son of Hinnom, but the valley of -slaughter: for they shall bury in Tophet, till there be no place." vii. -32. (pp. 21, 205.) - -[Sidenote: Hinnom. East gate.] - -"And go forth unto the valley of the son of Hinnom, which is by the -entry of the east gate, and proclaim there the words that I shall tell -thee." xix. 2. (p. 286.) - -[Sidenote: Tophet.] - -"And shalt say unto them, Thus saith the Lord of hosts; Even so will I -break this people and this city, as one breaketh a potter's vessel, -that cannot be made whole again: and they shall bury them in Tophet, -till there be no place to bury." xix. 11. (pp. 21, 205, 206.) - -[Sidenote: Gate of Benjamin.] - -"Then Pashur smote Jeremiah the prophet, and put him in the stocks that -were in the high gate of Benjamin, which was by the house of the Lord." -xx. 2. (p. 26.) - -[Sidenote: Jehoiakim's burial.] - -"He shall be buried with the burial of an ass, drawn and cast forth -beyond the gates of Jerusalem." xxii. 19. (p. 310.) - -[Sidenote: Graves of the common people.] - -"And they fetched forth Urijah out of Egypt, and brought him unto -Jehoiakim the king; who slew him with the sword, and cast his dead body -into the graves of the common people." xxvi. 23. (pp. 39, 168.) - -[Sidenote: Gate of the corner. Tower of Hananeel.] - -"Behold, the days come, saith the Lord, that the city shall be built to -the Lord from the tower of Hananeel unto the gate of the corner." xxxi. -38. (p. 26.) - -[Sidenote: Gareb. Goath.] - -"And the measuring line shall yet go forth over against it upon the hill -Gareb, and shall compass about to Goath." xxxi. 39. (p. 18.) - -[Sidenote: Valley of the dead bodies, &c.] - -[Sidenote: Horse gate.] - -"And the whole valley of the dead bodies, and of the ashes, and all the -fields unto the brook of Kidron, unto the corner of the horse gate -toward the east, shall be holy unto the Lord; it shall not be plucked -up, nor thrown down any more for ever." xxxi. 40. (p. 26.) - -[Sidenote: Jeremiah's dungeon.] - -"When Jeremiah was entered into the dungeon, and into the cabins, and -Jeremiah had remained there many days." xxxvii. 16. (p. 229.) - -[Sidenote: Bakers' street.] - -"Then Zedekiah the king commanded that they should commit Jeremiah into -the court of the prison, and that they should give him daily a piece of -bread out of the bakers' street, until all the bread in the city were -spent. Thus Jeremiah remained in the court of the prison." xxxvii. 21. -(p. 229.) - -[Sidenote: Gate between the two walls. King's garden.] - -"Then the city was broken up, and all the men of war fled, and went -forth out of the city by night by the way of the gate between the two -walls, which was by the king's garden; (now the Chaldeans were by the -city round about:) and they went by the way of the plain." lii. 7. (pp. -26, 188.) - -[Sidenote: People carried away captive.] - -"This is the people whom Nebuchadnezzar carried away captive: in the -seventh year three thousand Jews and three and twenty." lii. 28. (p. -50.) - -"In the eighteenth year of Nebuchadnezzar he carried away captive from -Jerusalem eight hundred thirty and two persons." lii. 29. (p. 50.) - -"In the three and twentieth year of Nebuchadnezzar Nebuzar-adan the -captain of the guard carried away captive of the Jews seven hundred -forty and five persons: all the persons were four thousand and six -hundred." lii. 30. (p. 50.) - - -EZEKIEL. - -[Sidenote: Cubits.] - -"And behold a wall on the outside of the house round about, and in the -man's hand a measuring reed of six cubits long by the cubit and an hand -breadth: so he measured the breadth of the building, one reed; and the -height, one reed." xl. 5. (p. 283.) - -[Sidenote: Tables of sin offering.] - -"And in the porch of the gate were two tables on this side, and two -tables on that side, to slay thereon the burnt offering and the sin -offering and the trespass offering." xl. 39. (pp. 55, 91.) - -[Sidenote: North gate, tables.] - -"And at the side without, as one goeth up to the entry of the north -gate, were two tables; and on the other side, which was at the porch of -the gate, were two tables." xl. 40. (p. 50, 55, 91.) - -[Sidenote: Cubits.] - -"I saw also the height of the house round about: the foundations of the -side chambers were a full reed of six great cubits." xli. 8. (p. 283.) - -[Sidenote: East Gate.] - -"And the glory of the Lord came into the house by the way of the gate -whose prospect is towards the east." xliii. 4. (p. 27.) - -[Sidenote: Carcases of the kings.] - -"... shall the house of Israel no more defile, neither they, nor their -kings, by their whoredom, nor by the carcases of their kings in their -high places." xliii. 7. - -"Now let them put away their whoredom, and the carcases of their kings, -far from me, and I will dwell in the midst of them for ever." xliii. 9. - -[Sidenote: Cubit.] - -"And these are the measures of the altar after the cubits: The cubit is -a cubit and an hand breadth." xliii. 13. (pp. 49, 283.) - -[Sidenote: Waters.] - -"Afterward he brought me again unto the door of the house; and, behold, -waters issued out from under the threshold of the house eastward: for -the forefront of the house stood toward the east, and the waters came -down from under from the right side of the house, at the south side of -the altar." xlvii. 1. (p. 256.) - - -JOEL. - -[Sidenote: Valley of Jehoshaphat.] - -"I will also gather all nations, and will bring them down into the -valley of Jehoshaphat, and will plead with them there for my people and -for my heritage Israel, whom they have scattered among the nations, and -parted my land." iii. 2. (pp. 168, 307.) - -[Sidenote: Valley of Jehoshaphat.] - -"Let the heathen be wakened, and come up to the valley of Jehoshaphat: -for there will I sit to judge all the heathen round about." iii. 12. -(pp. 168, 307.) - - -MICAH. - -[Sidenote: Zion a field.] - -"Therefore shall Zion for your sake be plowed as a field, and Jerusalem -shall become heaps, and the mountain of the house as the high places of -the forest." iii. 12. (pp. 3, 193.) - - -ZEPHANIAH. - -[Sidenote: Fish gate. Second gate.] - -"And it shall come to pass in that day, saith the Lord, that there shall -be the noise of a cry from the fish gate, and an howling from the -second, and a great crashing from the hills." i. 10. (pp. 25, 26.) - - -S. MATTHEW. - -[Sidenote: Fig tree.] - -"And when he saw a fig tree in the way, he came to it, and found nothing -thereon, but leaves only, and said unto it, Let no fruit grow on thee -henceforward for ever. And presently the fig tree withered away." xxi. -19. (p. 204.) - -[Sidenote: Gethsemane.] - -"Then cometh Jesus with them unto a place called Gethsemane, and saith -unto the disciples, Sit ye here, while I go and pray yonder." xxvi. 36. -(p. 177.) - -[Sidenote: Jesus prayed.] - -"And he went a little farther, and fell on his face, and prayed, saying, -O my Father, if it be possible, let this cup pass from me: nevertheless -not as I will, but as thou wilt." xxvi. 39. (p. 177.) - -[Sidenote: Disciples asleep.] - -"And he cometh unto the disciples, and findeth them asleep, and saith -unto Peter, What, could ye not watch with me one hour?" xxvi. 40. (p. -179.) - -[Sidenote: Judas.] - -"And while he yet spake, lo, Judas, one of the twelve, came, and with -him a great multitude with swords and staves, from the chief priests and -elders of the people." xxvi. 47. (p. 179.) - -[Sidenote: Betrayal.] - -"Now he that betrayed him gave them a sign, saying, Whomsoever I shall -kiss, that same is he: hold him fast." xxvi. 48. (p. 179.) - -[Sidenote: Caiaphas.] - -"And they that had laid hold on Jesus led him away to Caiaphas the high -priest, where the scribes and the elders were assembled." xxvi. 57. (p. -220.) - -[Sidenote: St. Peter.] - -"Now Peter sat without in the palace: and a damsel came unto him, -saying, Thou also wast with Jesus of Galilee." xxvi. 69. (p. 221.) - -[Sidenote: S. Peter's denial.] - -"But he denied before them all, saying, I know not what thou sayest." -xxvi. 70. (p. 221.) - -[Sidenote: S. Peter wept bitterly.] - -"And Peter remembered the word of Jesus, which said unto him, Before the -cock crow, thou shalt deny me thrice. And he went out, and wept -bitterly." xxvi. 75. (p. 221.) - -[Sidenote: Potter's field.] - -"And they took counsel, and bought with them the potter's field, to bury -strangers in." xxvii. 7. (p. 206.) - -[Sidenote: Field of Blood.] - -"Wherefore that field was called, The field of blood, unto this day." -xxvii. 8. (p. 206.) - -[Sidenote: Crown of thorns.] - -"And when they had platted a crown of thorns, they put it upon his head, -and a reed in his right hand: and they bowed the knee before him, and -mocked him, saying, Hail, King of the Jews!" xxvii. 29. (p. 138.) - -[Sidenote: Crucify him.] - -"And after that they had mocked him, they took the robe off from him, -and put his own raiment on him, and led him away to crucify him." xxvii. -31. (p. 138.) - -[Sidenote: Cyrenian, Simon by name.] - -"And as they came out, they found a man of Cyrene, Simon by name: him -they compelled to bear his cross." xxvii. 32. (p. 142.) - -[Sidenote: Golgotha.] - -"And when they were come unto a place called Golgotha, that is to say, a -place of a skull." xxvii. 33. (pp. 107, 122.) - -[Sidenote: Parting the garments.] - -"And they crucified him, and parted his garments, casting lots." xxvii. -35. - -[Sidenote: Rocks rent.] - -"And, behold, the veil of the temple was rent in twain from the top to -the bottom; and the earth did quake, and the rocks rent." xxvii. 51. - -[Sidenote: Joseph.] - -"And when Joseph had taken the body, he wrapped it in a clean linen -cloth," xxvii. 59. (p. 103.) - -[Sidenote: New tomb.] - -"And laid it in his own new tomb, which he had hewn out in the rock: and -he rolled a great stone to the door of the sepulchre, and departed." -xxvii. 60. (p. 103.) - -[S. Mary Magdalene.] - -"And there was Mary Magdalene, and the other Mary, sitting over against -the sepulchre." xxvii. 61. (p. 104.) - -[Sidenote: Angel rolled back the stone.] - -"And, behold, there was a great earthquake: for the angel of the Lord -descended from heaven, and came and rolled back the stone from the door, -and sat upon it." xxviii. 2. (pp. 116, 118.) - - -S. MARK. - -[Sidenote: Passover.] - -"And wheresoever he shall go in, say ye to the goodman of the house, The -Master saith, Where is the guest-chamber, where I shall eat the passover -with my disciples?" xiv. 14. (p. 216.) - -[Sidenote: Large upper room.] - -"And he will shew you a large upper room furnished and prepared: there -make ready for us." xiv. 15. (p. 216.) - -[Sidenote: Sepulchre.] - -"And entering into the sepulchre, they saw a young man sitting on the -right side, clothed in a long white garment; and they were affrighted." -xvi. 5. (p. 118.) - - -S. LUKE. - -[Sidenote: The rich man (Dives).] - -"There was a certain rich man, which was clothed in purple and fine -linen, and fared sumptuously every day." xvi. 19. (p. 142.) - -[Sidenote: Lazarus.] - -"And there was a certain beggar named Lazarus, which was laid at his -gate, full of sores." xvi. 20. (p. 142.) - -[Sidenote: Jesus wept over the city.] - -"And when he was come near, he beheld the city, and wept over it." xix. -41. (p. 190.) - -[Sidenote: Coenaculum.] - -"And he shall shew you a large upper room furnished: there make ready." -xxii. 12. (p. 216.) - -[Sidenote: Gethsemane.] - -"And being in an agony he prayed more earnestly: and his sweat was as it -were great drops of blood falling down to the ground." xxii. 44. (p. -177.) - -[Sidenote: Herod. Pilate.] - -"And Herod with his men of war set him at nought, and mocked him, and -arrayed him in a gorgeous robe, and sent him again to Pilate." xxiii. -11. (p. 141.) - -[Sidenote: Daughters of Jerusalem.] - -"But Jesus turning unto them said, Daughters of Jerusalem, weep not for -me, but weep for yourselves, and for your children." xxiii. 28. (p. -144.) - -[Sidenote: Sepulchre hewn in stone.] - -"And he took it down, and wrapped it in linen, and laid it in a -sepulchre that was hewn in stone, wherein never man before was laid." -xxiii. 53. (p. 103.) - -[Sidenote: Emmaus.] - -"And, behold, two of them went that same day to a village called Emmaus, -which was from Jerusalem about threescore furlongs." xxiv. 13. - -[Sidenote: Bethany.] - -"And he led them out as far as to Bethany, and he lifted up his hands, -and blessed them." xxiv. 50. (p. 191.) - - -S. JOHN. - -[Sidenote: Temple.] - -"Then said the Jews, Forty and six years was this temple in building, -and wilt thou rear it up in three days?" ii. 20. (pp. 53, 55.) - -[Sidenote: Bethesda.] - -"Now there is at Jerusalem by the sheep market a pool, which is called -in the Hebrew tongue Bethesda, having five porches." v. 2. (pp. 59, 66.) - -"And immediately the man was made whole, and took up his bed, and -walked: and on the same day was the sabbath." v. 9. (p. 66.) - -[Sidenote: Siloam.] - -"And said unto him, Go, wash in the pool of Siloam, (which is by -interpretation, Sent.) He went his way therefore, and washed, and came -seeing." ix. 7. (pp. 185, 187.) - -[Sidenote: Bethany.] - -"Now Bethany was nigh unto Jerusalem, about fifteen furlongs off." xi. -18. (p. 201.) - -[Sidenote: Cave of Lazarus.] - -"Jesus therefore again groaning in himself cometh to the grave. It was a -cave, and a stone lay upon it." xi. 38. (p. 201.) - -[Sidenote: Raising of Lazarus.] - -"And when he had thus spoken, he cried with a loud voice, Lazarus, come -forth." xi. 43. (p. 201.) - -[Sidenote: Cedron. Garden.] - -"When Jesus had spoken these words, he went forth with his disciples -over the brook Cedron, where was a garden, into the which he entered, -and his disciples." xviii. 1. (pp. 170, 177.) - -[Sidenote: Annas. Caiaphas.] - -"And led him away to Annas first; for he was father in law to Caiaphas, -which was the high priest that same year." xviii. 13. (p. 156.) - -[Sidenote: Pilate.] - -"Then Pilate entered into the judgment hall again, and called Jesus, and -said unto him, Art thou the King of the Jews?" xviii. 33. (pp. 135, 137, -295.) - -[Sidenote: Scourged by Pilate.] - -"Then Pilate therefore took Jesus, and scourged him." xix. 1. (p. 139.) - -[Sidenote: Pavement. Gabbatha.] - -"When Pilate therefore heard that saying, he brought Jesus forth, and -sat down in the judgment seat in a place that is called the Pavement, -but in the Hebrew, Gabbatha." xix. 13. (p. 295.) - -[Sidenote: Golgotha.] - -"And he bearing his cross went forth into a place called the place of a -skull, which is called in the Hebrew Golgotha." xix. 17. (pp. 107, 122.) - -[Sidenote: Place of Crucifixion.] - -"This title then read many of the Jews: for the place where Jesus was -crucified was nigh to the city: and it was Written in Hebrew, and Greek, -and Latin." xix. 20. (p. 103.) - -[Sidenote: Garments of Jesus.] - -"Then the soldiers, when they had crucified Jesus, took his garments, -and made four parts, to every soldier a part; and also his coat: now the -coat was without seam, woven from the top throughout." xix. 23. - -[Sidenote: Garden. New Sepulchre.] - -"Now in the place where he was crucified there was a garden; and in the -garden a new sepulchre, wherein was never man yet laid." xix. 41. (pp. -32, 103, 104.) - -[Sidenote: nigh at hand.] - -"There laid they Jesus therefore because of the Jews' preparation day; -for the sepulchre was nigh at hand." xix. 42. (p. 104.) - -[Sidenote: Gardener.] - -"Jesus saith unto her, Woman, why weepest thou? whom seekest thou? She, -supposing him to be the gardener, saith unto him, Sir, if thou have -borne him hence, tell me where thou hast laid him, and I will take him -away." xx. 15. - - -THE ACTS OF THE APOSTLES. - -[Sidenote: Ascension.] - -"And when he had spoken these things, while they beheld, he was taken -up; and a cloud received him out of their sight." i. 9. (p. 191.) - -[Sidenote: Ye men of Galilee.] - -"Which also said, Ye men of Galilee, why stand ye gazing up into heaven? -this same Jesus, which is taken up from you into heaven, shall so come -in like manner as ye have seen him go into heaven." i 11. (p. 191.) - -[Sidenote: Sabbath-day's journey.] - -"Then returned they unto Jerusalem from the mount called Olivet, which -is from Jerusalem a sabbath day's journey." i. 12. (pp. 21, 191, 284.) - -[Sidenote: Aceldama.] - -"And it was known unto all the dwellers at Jerusalem; insomuch as that -field is called in their proper tongue, Aceldama, that is to say, The -field of blood." i. 19. (p. 206.) - -[Sidenote: Pentecost.] - -"And when the day of Pentecost was fully come, they were all with one -accord in one place." ii. 1. (p. 217.) - -[Sidenote: Sepulchre of David.] - -"Men and brethren, let me freely speak unto you of the patriarch David, -that he is both dead and buried, and his sepulchre is with us unto this -day." ii. 29. (p. 211.) - -[Sidenote: Gate of the temple.] - -"And a certain man lame from his mother's womb was carried, whom they -laid daily at the gate of the temple which is called Beautiful, to ask -alms of them that entered into the temple." iii. 2. - -[Sidenote: S. Stephen stoned.] - -"And cast him out of the city, and stoned him: and the witnesses laid -down their clothes at a young man's feet, whose name was Saul." vii. 58. -(pp. 168, 223.) - -[Sidenote: S. James martyred.] - -"And he killed James the brother of John with the sword." xii. 2. (p. -157.) - - - - -PASSAGES FROM JOSEPHUS'S ANTIQUITIES OF THE JEWS, - -TAKEN FROM THE ENGLISH TRANSLATION OF - -WILLIAM WHISTON, A.M. - - -[Sidenote: King of Salem.] - -[Sidenote: King's Dale.] - -"So Abram, when he had saved the captive Sodomites, who had been taken -by the Assyrians, and Lot also, his kinsman, returned home in peace. Now -the king of Sodom met him at a certain place, which they called the -King's Dale, where Melchisedec, king of the city Salem, received him. -That name signifies the righteous king; and such he was, without -dispute, insomuch that, on this account, he was made the priest of God: -however, they afterwards called Salem Jerusalem." Book I. chap. X. par. -2. - -[Sidenote: King of Jerusalem.] - -"But the king of Jerusalem took it to heart, that the Gibeonites had -gone over to Joshua; so he called upon the kings of the neighbouring -nations to join together, and make war against them." V. I. 17. - -[Sidenote: The allies, that is, the tribes of Judah and Simeon. The -lower city.] - -"And when they had taken the greatest part of them [the cities], they -besieged Jerusalem; and when they had taken the lower city, which was -not under a considerable time, they slew all the inhabitants; but the -upper city was not to be taken without great difficulty, through the -strength of its walls, and the nature of the place." V. II. 2. - -[Sidenote: David takes the city by assault.] - -"Now the Jebusites, who were the inhabitants of Jerusalem, and were by -extraction Canaanites, shut their gates, and placed the blind, and the -lame, and all their maimed persons, upon the wall, in way of derision of -the king; and said, that the very lame themselves would hinder his -entrance into it. This they did out of contempt of his power, and as -depending on the strength of their walls. David was hereby enraged, and -began the siege of Jerusalem, and employed his utmost diligence and -alacrity therein, as intending by the taking of this place to -demonstrate his power, and to intimidate all others that might be of the -like [evil] disposition towards him; so he took the lower city by force, -but the citadel held out still; whence it was that the king, knowing -that the proposal of dignities and rewards would encourage the soldiers -to greater actions, promised that he who should first go over the -ditches that were beneath the citadel, and should ascend to the citadel -itself and take it, should have the command of the entire people -conferred upon him. So they all were ambitious to ascend, and thought no -pains too great in order to ascend thither; out of their desire of the -chief command. However, Joab, the son of Zeruiah, prevented the rest; -and as soon as he was got up to the citadel, cried out to the king, and -claimed the chief command." VII. III. 1. - -[Sidenote: City of David.] - -"When David had cast the Jebusites out of the citadel, he also rebuilt -Jerusalem, and named it, 'The City of David,' and abode there all the -time of his reign." VII. III. 2. - -[Sidenote: Hiram, king of Tyre.] - -[Sidenote: The lower city united with the upper.] - -"Hiram also, the king of the Tyrians, sent ambassadors to him, and made -a league of mutual friendship and assistance with him. He also sent him -presents, cedar-trees and mechanics, and men skilful in building and -architecture, that they might build him a royal palace at Jerusalem. Now -David made buildings round about the lower city: he also joined the -citadel to it, and made it one body; and when he had encompassed all -with walls, he appointed Joab to take care of them. It was David, -therefore, who first cast the Jebusites out of Jerusalem, and called it -by his own name, the City of David: for under our forefather, Abraham, -it was called [Salem or] Solyma." VII. III. 2. - -[Sidenote: Araunah the Jebusite is saved by David.] - -"I shall now make mention of Araunah, who was a wealthy man among the -Jebusites, but was not slain by David in the siege of Jerusalem, because -of the good-will he bore to the Hebrews, and a particular benignity and -affection which he had to the king himself, which I shall take a more -seasonable opportunity to speak a little of afterwards." VII. III. 3. - -[Sidenote: Tomb of Absalom.] - -"Joab's armour-bearers stood round about the tree, and pulled down his -dead body, and cast it into a great chasm that was out of sight, and -laid a heap of stones upon him till the cavity was filled up, and had -both the appearance and bigness of a grave." VII. X. 2. - -[Sidenote: Absalom's Pillar. King's Dale.] - -"Now Absalom had erected for himself a marble pillar in the king's dale, -two furlongs distant from Jerusalem, which he named Absalom's Hand." -VII. X. 3. - -[Sidenote: Gibeon forty furlongs from Jerusalem.] - -"And when he was come to Gibeon, which is a village forty furlongs -distant from Jerusalem." VII. XI. 7. - -[Sidenote: Altar in the threshing floor of Araunah.] - -"And sent Gad the prophet to him, and commanded him to go up immediately -to the threshing floor of Araunah, the Jebusite, and build an altar -there to God, and offer sacrifices." VII. XIII. 4. - -[Sidenote: Mount Moriah.] - -"Now it happened that Abraham came and offered his son Isaac for a -burnt-offering at that very place." VII. XIII. 4. - -[Sidenote: Place of the temple.] - -"Now when king David saw that God had heard his prayer, and had -graciously accepted of his sacrifice, he resolved to call that entire -place the altar of all the people, and to build a temple to God there." -VII. XIII. 4. - -[Sidenote: David buried at Jerusalem.] - -"He was buried by his son Solomon, in Jerusalem, with great -magnificence, and with all the other funeral pomp which kings used to be -buried with; moreover, he had great and immense wealth buried with him." -VII. XV. 3. - -[Sidenote: Solomon fortifies Jerusalem.] - -"He married the daughter of Pharaoh, king of Egypt, and built the walls -of Jerusalem, much larger and stronger than those that had been before, -and thenceforward he managed public affairs very peaceably." VIII. II. -1. - -[Sidenote: Foundations of the temple.] - -"Now, therefore, the king laid the foundations of the temple very deep -in the ground, and the materials were strong stones, and such as would -resist the force of time." VIII. III. 2. - -[Sidenote: Dimensions of the temple.] - -"Now when the king had divided the temple into two parts, he made the -inner house of twenty cubits [every way] to be the most secret chamber, -but he appointed that of forty cubits to be the sanctuary." VIII. III. -3. - -[Sidenote: Altar of burnt offerings.] - -"Solomon made the altar which he built for the burnt-offerings twenty -cubits long, twenty broad, and ten high." VIII. III. 7. - -[Sidenote: Size of the stones.] - -"Some of these [houses] Solomon built with stones of ten cubits." VIII. -V. 2. - -[Sidenote: Solomon increases the fortifications of Jerusalem.] - -"Now when the king saw that the walls of Jerusalem stood in need of -being better secured, and made stronger (for he thought the walls that -encompassed Jerusalem ought to correspond to the dignity of the city), -he both repaired them, and made them higher, with great towers upon -them." VIII. VI. 1. - -[Sidenote: Jeroboam.] - -"And when Solomon saw that he was of an active and bold disposition, he -made him the curator of the walls which he built round Jerusalem." VIII. -VII. 7. - -[Sidenote: Solomon interred at Jerusalem.] - -"So Solomon died when he was already an old man, having reigned eighty -years, and lived ninety-four. He was buried in Jerusalem." VIII. VII. 8. - -[Sidenote: The Egyptian king Shishak at Jerusalem.] - -"So when Shishak had taken the city without fighting, because Rehoboam -was afraid, and received him into it, yet did not Shishak stand to the -covenants he had made, but he spoiled the temple, and emptied the -treasures of God, and those of the king, and carried off innumerable ten -thousands of gold and silver, and left nothing at all behind him." VIII. -X. 3. - -[Sidenote: Destruction of Sennacherib's army.] - -"Now when Sennacherib was returning from his Egyptian war to Jerusalem, -he found his army, under Rabshakeh his general, in danger [by a plague, -for] God had sent a pestilential distemper upon his army; and on the -very first night of the siege a hundred fourscore and five thousand, -with their captains and generals, were destroyed." X. I. 5. - -[Sidenote: Nebuchadnezzar burns the temple.] - -"And when he had carried these off, he set fire to the temple in the -fifth month, the first day of the month, in the eleventh year of the -reign of Zedekiah, and in the eighteenth year of Nebuchadnezzar; he also -burnt the King's palace, and overthrew the city. Now the temple was -burnt four hundred and seventy years, six months, and ten days after it -was built." X. VIII. 5. - -[Sidenote: Alexander the Great at Jerusalem.] - -"Now Alexander, when he had taken Gaza, made haste to go up to -Jerusalem; and Jaddua, the high-priest, when he heard that, was in an -agony and under terror." XI. VIII. 4. - -[Sidenote: Sapha.] - -"It reached to a place called Sapha, which name, translated into Greek, -signifies a prospect; for you have thence a prospect both of Jerusalem -and of the temple." XI. VIII. 5. - -[Sidenote: Ptolemy, son of Lagus, at Jerusalem.] - -"Syria, by the means of Ptolemy, the son of Lagus, underwent the reverse -of that denomination of Saviour which he then had. He also seized upon -Jerusalem, and for that end made use of deceit and treachery; for he -came into the city on a sabbath-day, as if he would offer sacrifices." -XII. I. 1. - -[Sidenote: Antiochus Epiphanes at Jerusalem.] - -"King Antiochus returning out of Egypt, for fear of the Romans, made an -expedition against the city Jerusalem; and when he was there, in the -hundred forty and third year of the kingdom of the Seleucidae, he took -the city without fighting, those of his own party opening the gates to -him. And when he had gotten possession of Jerusalem, he slew many of the -opposite party; and when he had plundered it of a great deal of money, -he returned to Antioch." XII. V. 3. - -[Sidenote: Cruelty of Antiochus, who builds the citadel in the lower -part of the city.] - -"And when he had pillaged the whole city, some of the inhabitants he -slew, and some he carried captive, together with their wives and -children, so that the multitude of those captives that were taken alive -amounted to about ten thousand. He also burnt down the finest buildings; -and when he had overthrown the city-walls, he built a citadel in the -lower part of the city; for the place was high, and overlooked the -temple, on which account he fortified it with high walls and towers; and -put into it a garrison of Macedonians." XII. V. 4. - -[Sidenote: Mattathias.] - -"Now this Mattathias lamented to his children the sad state of their -affairs, and the ravage made in the city, and the plundering of the -temple, and the calamities the multitude were under; and he told them -that it was better for them to die for the laws of their country than -to live so ingloriously as they then did." XII. VI. 1. - -[Sidenote: Judas repairs the walls of Jerusalem.] - -"Judas also rebuilt the walls round about the city, and reared towers of -great height against the incursions of enemies, and set guards therein." -XII. VII. 7. - -[Sidenote: Simon, master of the citadel of Jerusalem, razes it with the -ground.] - -"He also took the citadel of Jerusalem by siege, and cast it down to the -ground, that it might not be any more a place of refuge to their enemies -when they took it, to do them mischief, as it had been till now. And -when he had done this, he thought it their best way, and most for their -advantage, to level the very mountain itself upon which the citadel -happened to stand, that so the temple might be higher than it." XIII. -VI. 7. - -[Sidenote: Hyrcanus opens the tomb of David.] - -"But Hyrcanus opened the sepulchre of David, who excelled all other -kings in riches, and took out of it three thousand talents. He was also -the first of the Jews that, relying on his wealth, maintained foreign -troops." XIII. VIII. 4. - -[Sidenote: Aristobulus causes the death of Antigonus.] - -"Aristobulus yielded to these imputations, but took care both that his -brother should not suspect him, and that he himself might not run the -hazard of his own safety; so he ordered his guards to lie in a certain -place that was underground, and dark, (he himself then lying sick in the -tower which was called Antonia)." XIII. XI. 2. - -[Sidenote: Antigonus killed in the tower of Strato.] - -"So Antigonus, suspecting no treachery, but depending on the good-will -of his brother, came to Aristobulus armed, as he used to be, with his -entire armour, in order to show it to him; but when he was come to a -place which was called Strato's Tower, where the passage happened to be -exceeding dark, the guards slew him." XIII. XI. 2. - -[Sidenote: Pompeius approaches Jerusalem.] - -"At this Pompeius was very angry, and put Aristobulus into prison, and -came himself to the city, which was strong on every side, excepting the -north, which was not so well fortified, for there was a broad and deep -ditch that encompassed the city, and included within it the temple, -which was itself encompassed with a very strong stone wall." XIV. IV. 1. - -[Sidenote: Pompeius pitches his camp on the north side of the temple.] - -"Pompeius pitched his camp within [the wall], on the north part of the -temple, where it was most practicable; but even on that side there were -great towers, and a ditch had been dug, and a deep valley begirt it -round about, for on the parts towards the city were precipices, and the -bridge on which Pompeius had gotten in was broken down." XIV. IV. 2. - -[Sidenote: Aristobulus interred in the tomb of the kings.] - -"His dead body also lay, for a good while, embalmed in honey, till -Antonius afterward sent it to Judea, and caused him to be buried in the -royal sepulchre." XIV. VII. 4. - -[Sidenote: Troops of Herod and Sosius.] - -"And they all met together at the walls of Jerusalem, and encamped at -the north wall of the city, being now an army of eleven legions, armed -men on foot, and six thousand horsemen, with other auxiliaries out of -Syria." XIV. XVI. 1. - -[Sidenote: Herod's siege.] - -"The first wall was taken in forty days, and the second in fifteen more, -when some of the cloisters that were about the temple were burnt, which -Herod gave out to have been burnt by Antigonus, in order to expose him -to the hatred of the Jews. And when the outer court of the temple, and -the lower city, were taken, the Jews fled into the inner court of the -temple, and into the upper city." XIV. XVI. 2. - -[Sidenote: Herod's theatre, amphitheatre.] - -"He built a theatre at Jerusalem, as also a very great amphitheatre in -the plain." XV. VIII. 1. - -[Sidenote: Herod's two fortresses.] - -"He had now the city fortified by the palace in which he lived and by -the temple which had a strong fortress by it, called Antonia." XV. VIII. -5. - -[Sidenote: Dimensions of Herod's temple.] - -"So Herod took away the old foundations, and laid others, and erected -the temple upon them, being in length a hundred cubits, and in height -twenty additional cubits, which [twenty], upon the sinking of their -foundations, fell down; and this part it was that we resolved to raise -again in the days of Nero. Now the temple was built of stones that were -white and strong, and each of their length was twenty-five cubits, their -height was eight, and their breadth about twelve." XV. XI. 3. - -[Sidenote: Tower of Baris, afterwards called Antonia.] - -"Now on the north side [of the temple] was built a citadel, whose walls -were square, and strong, and of extraordinary firmness. This citadel was -built by the kings of the Asamonean race, who were also high-priests -before Herod, and they called it the Tower." XV. XI. 4. - -[Sidenote: Tower Antonia.] - -"... when Herod the king of the Jews had fortified it more firmly than -before, in order to secure and guard the temple, he gratified Antonius, -who was his friend and the Roman ruler, and then gave it the name of the -Tower of Antonia." XV. XI. 4. - -[Sidenote: Four gates to the north of the temple-enclosure.] - -"Now in the western quarters of the enclosure of the temple there were -four gates; the first led to the king's palace, and went to a passage -over the intermediate valley; two more led to the suburbs of the city; -and the last led to the other city, where the road descended down into -the valley by a great number of steps, and thence up again by the -ascent; for the city lay over against the temple in the manner of a -theatre, and was encompassed with a deep valley along the entire south -quarter." XV. XI. 5. - -[Sidenote: Herod's subterranean gallery from the Antonia tower to the -eastern gate.] - -"There was also an occult passage built for the king; it led from -Antonia to the inner temple, at its eastern gate; over which he also -erected for himself a tower, that he might have the opportunity of a -subterraneous ascent to the temple, in order to guard against any -sedition which might be made by the people against their kings." XV. XI. -7. - -[Sidenote: Herod opens the tomb of David.] - -"... he had a great while an intention to make the attempt; and at this -time he opened that sepulchre by night and went into it, and endeavoured -that it should not be at all known in the city, but took only his most -faithful friends with him. As for any money, he found none, as Hyrcanus -had done, but that furniture of gold, and those precious goods that were -laid up there; all which he took away. However, he had a great desire to -make a more diligent search, and to go farther in, even as far as the -very bodies of David and Solomon; where two of his guards were slain by -a flame that burst out upon those that went in, as the report was. So he -was terribly affrighted, and went out, and built a propitiatory monument -of that fright he had been in; and this of white stone, at the mouth of -the sepulchre, and at a great expense also." XVI. VII. 1. - -[Sidenote: Pilate constructs acqueducts.] - -"But Pilate undertook to bring a current of water to Jerusalem, and did -it with the sacred money, and derived the origin of the stream from the -distance of two hundred furlongs. However, the Jews were not pleased -with what had been done about this water; and many ten thousands of the -people got together and made a clamour against him, and insisted that he -should leave off that design." XVIII. III. 2. - -[Sidenote: Jesus Christ.] - -"Now, there was about this time Jesus, a wise man, if it be lawful to -call him a man, for he was a doer of wonderful works, a teacher of such -men as receive the truth with pleasure. He drew over to him both many of -the Jews, and many of the Gentiles. He was [the] Christ. And when -Pilate, at the suggestion of the principal men among us, had condemned -him to the cross, those that loved him at the first did not forsake him; -for he appeared to them alive again the third day; as the divine -prophets had foretold these and ten thousand other wonderful things -concerning him. And the tribe of Christians, so named from him, are not -extinct at this day." XVIII. III. 3. - -[Sidenote: King Agrippa begins to fortify Jerusalem, but is prevented -from proceeding by Claudius.] - -"As for the walls of Jerusalem, that were adjoining to the new city -[Bezetha], he repaired them at the expense of the public, and built them -wider in breadth, and higher in altitude; and he had made them too -strong for all human power to demolish, unless Marcus, the then -president of Syria, had by letter informed Claudius Caesar of what he was -doing. And when Claudius had some suspicion of attempts for innovation, -he sent to Agrippa to leave off the building of those walls presently. -So he obeyed; as not thinking it proper to contradict Claudius." XIX. -VII. 2. - -[Sidenote: Pyramids of Helena three furlongs from the city.] - -"But Monobazus sent her bones, as well as those of Izates, his brother, -to Jerusalem, and gave order that they should be buried at the pyramids -which their mother had erected; they were three in number, and distant -no more than three furlongs from the city of Jerusalem." XX. IV. 3. - -[Sidenote: Agrippa's palace, whence could be seen all that passed in the -temple.] - -"About the same time king Agrippa built himself a very large dining-room -in the royal palace at Jerusalem, near to the portico. Now this palace -had been erected of old by the children of Asamoneus, and was situated -upon an elevation, and afforded a most delightful prospect to those that -had a mind to take a view of the city, which prospect was desired by the -king; and there he could lie down and eat, and thence observe what was -done in the temple: which thing, when the chief men of Jerusalem saw, -they were very much displeased at it; for it was not agreeable to the -institutions of our country or law, that what was done in the temple -should be viewed by others, especially what belonged to the sacrifices. -They therefore erected a wall upon the uppermost building which belonged -to the inner court of the temple towards the west, which wall, when it -was built, did not only intercept the prospect of the dining-room in the -palace, but also of the western cloisters that belonged to the outer -court of the temple also, where it was that the Romans kept guards for -the temple at the festivals." XX. VIII. 11. - -[Sidenote: The younger Ananus, high-priest, puts S. James to death.] - -"Festus was now dead, and Albinus was but upon the road; so he assembled -the Sanhedrim of judges, and brought before them the brother of Jesus, -who was called Christ, whose name was James, and some others [or some of -his companions] and when he had formed an accusation against them as -breakers of the law, he delivered them to be stoned." XX. IX. 1. - -[Sidenote: King Agrippa refuses to rebuild the eastern gate of the -temple.] - -"... so they [the people] persuaded him to rebuild the eastern -cloisters. These cloisters belonged to the outer court, and were -situated in a deep valley, and had walls that reached four hundred -cubits [in length], and were built of square and very white stones, the -length of each of which stones was twenty cubits, and their height six -cubits. This was the work of king Solomon, who first of all built the -entire temple." XX. IX. 7. - - - - -PASSAGES FROM JOSEPHUS'S HISTORY OF THE JEWISH WAR, - -TAKEN FROM THE ENGLISH TRANSLATION OF - -ROBERT TRAILL, D.D. M.R.I.A. - - -[Sidenote: Antiochus Epiphanes at Jerusalem.] - -"That monarch, long intent on the enterprise, was prevailed on; and, -pressing forward at the head of a formidable army, he took Jerusalem by -assault, put to the sword vast numbers of those attached to the -interests of Ptolemy, allowed his troops unrestricted pillage, despoiled -the temple in person, and, during three years and six months, -interrupted the course of the daily sacrifices." I. I. 1. - -[Sidenote: Judas attacks the garrison at Jerusalem. Purifies the -temple.] - -"In the ardour of victory Judas attacked the garrison in the city, which -had not yet been reduced, and having expelled the troops from the upper -town, drove them into the lower, a quarter of the city called Acra. -Being now master of the temple, he purified the place throughout, and -walled it round." I. I. 4. - -[Sidenote: Hyrcanus opens David's tomb.] - -"Antiochus, enraged by what he had endured at the hands of Simon, led an -army into Judaea, and sitting down before Jerusalem, besieged Hyrcanus; -who, opening the sepulchre of David, the richest of kings, and privately -taking out upwards of three thousand talents in money, both induced -Antiochus, by the payment of three hundred, to raise the siege; and -also, from the remaining surplus, maintained--the first of the Jews to -do so--a mercenary force." I. II. 5. - -[Sidenote: Aristobulus. Antigonus. Tower of Baris.] - -"Gradually, and with reluctance, Aristobulus credited these -insinuations. Yet careful, at once, to avoid the semblance of suspicion, -and to provide against any covert attempt, he stationed his body-guards -in a dark subterraneous passage--he was himself at the time confined to -bed, in a tower formerly called Baris, but subsequently named -Antonia--with orders to allow Antigonus, if unarmed, to pass; but to -despatch him, should he approach in arms." I. III. 3. - -[Sidenote: Strato's Tower.] - -"But, on reaching the dark passage, known by the name of Strato's Tower, -he [Antigonus] was killed by the body-guards." I. III. 4. - -[Sidenote: Pompeius reconnoitres the city of Jerusalem.] - -"Incensed at this, Pompeius committed Aristobulus to custody; and having -advanced to the city, he considered well on what point he should direct -his attack. He found the walls, from their height, of almost impregnable -strength, with a frightful ravine in front of them: while within this -the temple was so strongly fortified, that, even after the capture of -the town, it would afford a second refuge to the enemy." I. VII. 1. - -[Sidenote: The bridge broken down by Aristobulus' party.] - -"The adherents of Aristobulus, being discomfited in the contest, retired -into the temple, and, breaking down the bridge which connected it with -the city, prepared to hold out to the last." I. VII. 2. - -[Sidenote: Pompeius fills up the fosse of the town.] - -"The Roman commander now filled up the fosse, and the whole of the -ravine, which lay on the north quarter, the troops collecting materials. -This was an undertaking of difficulty, not only on account of the -prodigious depth of the ravine, but from the impediments of every kind -offered by the Jews from above." I. VII. 3. - -[Sidenote: Herod rebuilds the temple.] - -[Sidenote: Palaces of Caesarium and Agrippium.] - -"Herod, accordingly, at an incalculable expense, and in a style of -unsurpassed magnificence, in the fifteenth year of his reign, restored -the Temple, and breasted up with a wall the area round it, so as to -enlarge it to twice its former extent. An evidence of its sumptuousness -were the ample colonnades around the holy place, and the fort on its -northern side. The colonnades he reared from the foundation; the fort, -in nothing inferior to a palace, he repaired at an immense cost; and -called it Antonia, in honour of Antonius. He also constructed a -residence for himself in the upper town, containing two very spacious, -and not less beautiful buildings, with which the Temple itself bore no -comparison. These he designated after his friends, the one Caesarium, the -other Agrippium." I. XXI. 1. - -[Sidenote: Pilate constructs acqueducts.] - -"He subsequently occasioned another tumult, by expending the sacred -treasure, called Corban, in the construction of an aqueduct. He brought -the water from a distance of four hundred furlongs. Indignant at this -profanation, the populace, on his return to Jerusalem, collected with -loud clamours about his tribunal." II. IX. 4. - -[Sidenote: Cestius encamps on Mount Scopus.] - -"Cestius, seeing that these intestine dissensions afforded him a -favourable opportunity for attack, led out his entire force, routed the -Jews, and pursued them to the gates of Jerusalem. Encamping at a place -called The Scopus, distant seven furlongs from the city, he for three -days suspended his operations against it." II. XIX. 4. - -[Sidenote: Cestius encamps opposite the royal palace.] - -"Cestius, on entering, set fire to Bezetha, so named, the Coenopolis, -and the place called the Timber Market; and, proceeding to the upper -town, encamped opposite the royal residence." II. XIX. 4. - -[Sidenote: Number of the troops of Titus engaged in the siege of -Jerusalem.] - -"For Titus, having drawn together part of his troops to himself, and -sent orders to the others to meet him at Jerusalem, broke up from -Caesarea. There were the three legions which, under the command of his -father, had before ravaged Judaea, and the twelfth, that had formerly -been defeated with Cestius, and which, remarkable at all times for its -valour, on this occasion, from a recollection of what had befallen it, -advanced with greater alacrity to revenge. Of these, he directed the -fifth to join him by the route of Ammaus, and the tenth to go up by that -of Jericho; while he himself moved forward with the remainder, attended, -beside these, by the contingents from the allied sovereigns, all in -increased force, and by a considerable body of Syrian auxiliaries. - -"Detachments having been drafted by Vespasian from the four legions, and -sent with Mucianus into Italy, their places were filled up from among -the troops that had come with Titus. For two thousand men, selected from -among the forces of Alexandria, and three thousand of the guards from -the Euphrates, accompanied him; and with them, Tiberius Alexander." V. -I. 6. - -[Sidenote: Titus with 600 cavalry reconnoitres Jerusalem.] - -"Leading on his forces in orderly array, according to Roman usage, Titus -marched through Samaria to Gophna, which had been previously taken by -his father, and was then garrisoned. Here he rested for the night, and, -setting forward early in the morning, advanced a day's march, and -encamped in the valley, which is called by the Jews, in their native -tongue, 'The Valley of Thorns,' adjacent to a village named Gabath-Saul, -which signifies 'Saul's Hill,' distant from Jerusalem about thirty -furlongs. From hence, accompanied by about six hundred picked horsemen, -he rode forward to reconnoitre the strength of the city, and ascertain -the disposition of the Jews, whether, on seeing him, they would be -terrified into a surrender previous to any actual conflict." V. II. 1. - -[Sidenote: Titus attacked by the Jews by the monument of Helena.] - -[Sidenote: The Women's Towers.] - -"While he continued to ride along the direct route which led to the -wall, no one appeared before the gates; but on his filing off from the -road towards the tower Psephinus, and taking an oblique direction with -his squadron, the Jews suddenly rushed out in immense numbers at a spot -called 'The Women's Towers,' through the gate opposite the monuments of -Helena. They broke through his ranks, and placing themselves in front of -the troops who were still advancing along the road, prevented them from -joining their comrades, who had filed off, and thus intercepted Titus -with only a handful of men. For him to move forward was impossible; as -the entire space was intersected by transverse walls and numerous -fences, and separated from the ramparts by dykes made for gardening -purposes." V. II. 2. - -[Sidenote: Titus encamps at Scopus, seven furlongs from Jerusalem.] - -[Sidenote: The tenth legion upon the Mount of Olives.] - -"Caesar, being joined during the night by the legion from Ammaus, moved -the next day from thence, and advanced to Scopus, as it is called, the -place from which the city first became visible, and the stately pile of -the sanctuary shone forth; whence it is that this spot--a flat adjoining -the northern quarter of the town--is appropriately called Scopus (the -Prospect). When at the distance of seven furlongs from the city, Titus -ordered a camp to be formed for two of the legions together; the fifth -he stationed three furlongs in rear of them: thinking that, as they had -been fatigued with their march during the night, they required to be -covered, that they might throw up their entrenchments with less -apprehension. Scarcely had they commenced their operations, when the -tenth legion arrived. It had advanced through Jericho, where a party of -soldiers had lain to guard the pass formerly taken possession of by -Vespasian. These troops had received orders to encamp at the distance of -six furlongs from Jerusalem, at the Mount of Olives, so called, which -lies over against the city on the east, and is separated from it by a -deep intervening ravine, which bears the name of Kedron." V. II. 3. - -[Sidenote: Titus levels the ground between Scopus and Jerusalem.] - -[Sidenote: Tomb of Herod. Serpents' Pool.] - -"Titus intending to break up from Scopus, and encamp nearer to the city, -stationed a body of picked men, horse and foot, in such force as he -deemed sufficient to check the sallies of the enemy, and employed the -main body of his army in levelling the intervening ground as far as the -walls. All the fences and hedges, with which the inhabitants had -enclosed their gardens and orchards, being accordingly swept away, and -the fruit trees in the whole of the intermediate distance felled, the -hollows and chasms of the place were filled up, and the rocky eminences -removed with iron implements; and thus the whole space from Scopus to -the monuments of Herod, adjacent to what is called 'The Serpents' Pool,' -was reduced to a level." V. III. 2. - -[Sidenote: Tomb of Helena. Sortie of the Jews.] - -"Accordingly, after maintaining a long contest with their spears, and -receiving many wounds from their opponents, but inflicting not fewer in -return, they eventually drove back the party who had surrounded them. -The Jews, however, as soon as they began to retire, pursued them as far -as the monuments of Helena, annoying them with missiles." V. III. 3. - -[Sidenote: Titus encamps opposite the Tower of Psephinus.] - -[Sidenote: Another division opposite the Tower of Hippicus, and the -tenth legion upon the Mount of Olives.] - -"In four days, the interval between his post and the walls having been -levelled, Titus, anxious to forward in safety the baggage and the -followers of the army, ranged the flower of his troops opposite the wall -on the northern quarter of the city, and extending towards the west, the -phalanx being drawn up seven deep. The infantry were disposed in front, -and the cavalry in rear, each in three ranks; the archers, who formed -the seventh, being in the middle. - -"The sallies of the Jews being checked by such an array, the beasts of -burthen belonging to the three legions, with the camp followers, passed -on in safety. Titus himself encamped about two furlongs from the -ramparts, at the corner opposite the tower called Psephinus, where the -circuit of the wall, in its advance along the north side, bends with a -western aspect. The other division of the army was entrenched opposite -to the tower named Hippicus, distant, in like manner, two furlongs from -the city. The tenth legion continued to occupy its position on the Mount -of Olives, as it is called." V. III. 5. - - * * * * * - -_Description of the walls of Jerusalem._ - -"Jerusalem, fortified by three walls--except where it was encompassed by -its impassable ravines, for there it had but a single rampart--was -built, the one division fronting the other, on two hills, separated by -an intervening valley, at which the rows of houses terminated. Of these -hills, that on which the upper town was situated is much higher and -straighter in its length. Accordingly, on account of its strength, it -was styled the Fortress by king David, the father of Solomon, by whom -the temple was originally erected; but by us the Upper Market-place. The -other, which bears the name of Acra, and supports the lower town, is of -a gibbous form. Opposite to this was a third hill, naturally lower than -Acra, and formerly severed from it by another broad ravine. Afterwards, -however, the Asmonaeans, during their reign, filled up the ravine, with -the intention of uniting the city to the temple; and, levelling the -summit of Acra, they reduced its elevation, so that the temple might be -conspicuous above other objects in this quarter also. The Valley of the -Cheese-makers, as it was designated, which divided, as we have said, the -hill of the upper town from that of the lower, extended as far as -Siloam, as we call it, a fountain whose waters are at once sweet and -copious. On the exterior, the two hills on which the city stood were -skirted by deep ravines, so precipitous on either side that the town was -nowhere accessible." V. IV. 1. - -"Of the three walls, the most ancient, as well from the ravines which -surrounded it, as from the hill above them on which it was erected, was -almost impregnable. But, besides the advantages of its situation, it was -also strongly built; David and Solomon, as well as their successors on -the throne, having devoted much attention to the work. - -[Sidenote: First Wall.] - -"Beginning on the north at the tower called Hippicus, and extending to -what was termed the Xystus, it then formed a junction with the -council-house, and terminated at the western colonnade of the temple. On -the other side, towards the west, beginning at the same tower, it -stretched through Bethso, as it was styled, to the gate of the Essenes. -It then turned, and advanced with a southern aspect above the fountain -of Siloam, whence it again inclined, facing the east, towards Solomon's -reservoir, and extending to a certain spot, designated Ophla, it joined -the eastern colonnade of the temple. - -[Sidenote: Second Wall.] - -[Sidenote: Third Wall.] - -[Sidenote: King Agrippa commences the third Wall.] - -"The second had its beginning at the gate which they called Gennath, -belonging to the first wall. It reached to the Antonia, and encircled -only the northern quarter of the town. The tower Hippicus formed the -commencement of the third wall, which stretched from thence towards the -northern quarter, as far as the tower Psephinus, and then passing -opposite the monuments of Helena, Queen of Adiabene, and mother of king -Izates, and extending through the royal caverns, was inflected at the -corner tower near to the spot known by the appellation of the Fuller's -Tomb; and, connecting itself with the old wall, terminated at the valley -called Kedron. This wall Agrippa had thrown round the new-built town, -which was quite unprotected; for the city, overflowing with inhabitants, -gradually crept beyond the ramparts; and the people, incorporating with -the city the quarter north of the temple close to the hill, made a -considerable advance, insomuch that a fourth hill, which is called -Bezetha, was also surrounded with habitations. It lay over against the -Antonia, from which it was separated by a deep fosse, purposely -excavated to cut off the communication between the foundations of the -Antonia and the hill, that they might be at once less easy of access and -more elevated. Thus the depth of the trench materially increased the -altitude of the towers. - -"The quarter most recently built was called, in our language, Bezetha, -which, if translated into the Greek tongue, would be Caenopolis -(New-town). Those who resided there requiring defence, the father of the -present sovereign, and of the same name, Agrippa, commenced the wall we -have mentioned. But, apprehending that Claudius Caesar might suspect from -the magnitude of the structure that he entertained some designs of -innovation and insurrection, he desisted when he had merely laid the -foundations. For, indeed, had he completed that wall upon the scale on -which it was begun, the city would have been impregnable. It was -constructed of stones twenty cubits long and ten broad, fitted into each -other in such a manner that they could scarcely have been undermined -with iron, or shaken by engines. The wall itself was ten cubits in -breadth; and it would probably have attained a greater height than it -did, had not the enterprising spirit of its founder met with a check; -but, subsequently, though the work was carried on with ardour by the -Jews, it only rose to the height of twenty cubits; while, crowning this, -were battlements of two cubits, upon parapets of three cubits in -altitude, so that it attained in its entire elevation twenty-five -cubits." V. IV. 2. - -[Sidenote: Description of the third Wall.] - -[Sidenote: Ninety towers in the third Wall.] - -"On this wall were erected towers, twenty cubits in breadth, and the -same in height, square, and solid as the wall itself. In the joining and -beauty of the stones, they were nowise inferior to the temple. Over the -solid altitude of the towers, which was twenty cubits, were sumptuous -apartments; and above these, again, upper rooms, and numerous cisterns -therein to receive the rain-water, and to each room wide staircases. Of -such towers the third wall had ninety, disposed at intervals of two -hundred cubits. - -[Sidenote: The middle Wall had fourteen towers, the ancient sixty.] - -[Sidenote: The Psephinus tower.] - -"The middle wall was divided into fourteen towers, and the ancient one -into sixty. Of the city the entire circuit was thirty-three furlongs. -But admirable as was the third wall throughout, still more so was the -tower Psephinus, which rose up at the north-west angle, and opposite to -which Titus encamped. Being seventy cubits high, it afforded at sunrise -a prospect of Arabia, and of the limits of the Hebrew territories as far -as the sea; it was octagonal in form. - -[Sidenote: Hippicus.] - -"Over against this was the tower Hippicus, and near to it two others, -all erected by king Herod in the ancient wall, which in magnitude, -beauty and strength, exceeded all that the world could produce." V. IV. -3. - -[Sidenote: Hippicus' Tower.] - -"Hippicus, so called from his friend, was quadrangular, its length and -breadth being each twenty-five cubits, and to the height of thirty -cubits it was solid throughout. Above this solid part, which was -constructed of stones formed into one compact mass, was a reservoir to -receive the rain, twenty cubits deep, over which was a house of two -stories, twenty-five cubits high, and divided into various apartments. -Above this were battlements of two cubits in height, mounted upon -parapets of three; so that the entire altitude amounted to eighty -cubits. - -[Sidenote: Phasaelus.] - -"The second tower, which he named Phasaelus, from his brother, was of -equal length and breadth, forty cubits each, and the same in solid -height. Over this, and embracing the whole of the structure, was a -gallery, ten cubits high, defended by breast-work and battlements.... - -[Sidenote: Mariamne.] - -"The third tower, Mariamne--for such was the queen's name--was solid to -the height of twenty cubits; its breadth, also, being twenty cubits, and -its length the same." V. IV. 3. - -"Of this the entire elevation was fifty-five cubits." V. IV. 3. - -[Sidenote: Site of the three towers.] - -"But while such was the actual magnitude of these three towers, their -site added much to their apparent dimensions. For the ancient wall in -which they stood was itself built on a lofty hill; and higher still rose -up in front, to the height of thirty cubits, a kind of crest of the -hill; on this the towers rested, and thus acquired a much greater -altitude.... - -"To these towers, which lay northward, was attached on the inner side -the royal residence, which exceeded all description.... - -"The conflagration began at Antonia, passed onward to the palace, and -consumed the roofs of the three towers." V. IV. 4. - -[Sidenote: The Temple.] - -"The temple, as I have said, was seated on a strong hill. Originally, -the level space on its summit scarcely sufficed for the sanctuary and -the altar, the ground about being abrupt and steep. But king Solomon, -who built the sanctuary, having completely walled up the eastern side, a -colonnade was built upon the embankment. On the other sides, the -sanctuary remained exposed. In process of time, however, as the people -were constantly adding to the embankment, the hill became level and -broader. They also threw down the northern wall, and enclosed as much -ground as the circuit of the temple at large subsequently occupied." V. -V. 1. - -[Sidenote: Circuit of the Temple six furlongs.] - -"The colonnades were thirty cubits broad, and their entire circuit, -including the Antonia, measured six furlongs." V. V. 2. - -[Sidenote: Dimensions of the Temple.] - -"Advancing within, the lower story of the sanctuary received you. This -was sixty cubits in height, and the same in length, while its breadth -was twenty cubits. These sixty cubits of length were again divided. The -first part partitioned off at forty cubits." V. V. 5. - -[Sidenote: Dimensions relative to the Temple.] - -"The innermost recess of the temple measured twenty cubits, and was -separated in like manner from the outer by a veil. In this, nothing -whatever was deposited. Unapproachable, inviolable, and to be seen by -none, it was called the Holy of the Holy." V. V. 5. - -[Sidenote: Position of the Antonia Tower.] - -"The Antonia lay at the angle formed by two colonnades, the western and -the northern, of the first court of the temple. It was built upon a rock -fifty cubits high, and on every side precipitous. It was a work of king -Herod, in which he particularly evinced the natural greatness of his -mind. For, first, the rock was covered from the base upwards with smooth -stone flags, as well for ornament, as that any one who attempted to -ascend or descend might slip off. Next, and in front of the edifice -itself, there was a wall of three cubits; and within this the entire -space occupied by the Antonia rose to an altitude of forty cubits. - -[Sidenote: Citadel in the upper town. Bezetha, north of the Temple.] - -"... The upper town had its own fortress--Herod's palace. The hill -Bezetha was detached, as I have mentioned, from the Antonia. It was the -highest of the three, and was joined on to part of the new town forming -northward the only obstruction to the view of the temple." V. V. 8. - -[Sidenote: Forces of the besieged in Jerusalem.] - -"The whole number of fighting men and insurgents in the city was as -follows. Attached to Simon were ten thousand men, irrespective of the -Idumaeans. Over these were fifty officers, Simon himself acting as -Commander-in-chief. The Idumaeans who joined his ranks, five thousand in -number, had ten leaders, of whom James, the son of Sosas, and Simon, the -son of Cathlas, were reputed to be the foremost. John, who had seized on -the temple, had under his orders six thousand men-at-arms, commanded by -twenty officers. The Zealots, also, had now laid aside their differences -and gone over to him, to the number of two thousand four hundred, led by -Eleazar, their former general, and Simon, son of Ari." V. VI. 1. - -[Sidenote: Position occupied by Simon.] - -[Sidenote: Position occupied by John.] - -"Simon occupied the upper town and the great wall, as far as the Kedron, -with as much of the old wall as, bending eastward from Siloam, descended -to the palace of Monobazus, king of Adiabene, beyond the Euphrates. He -held, likewise, the fountain and the Acra, which was the lower town, -with the interval as far as the palace of Helena, the mother of -Monobazus. John occupied the temple, and the parts about it to a -considerable distance, with Ophla, and the valley called Kedron." V. VI. -1. - -[Sidenote: Titus examines the Walls.] - -[Sidenote: Monument of the high priest John.] - -"While affairs in the city were in this posture, Titus, with a select -detachment of horse, rode round the wall, in order to ascertain against -what quarter he should direct his attack. Utterly at a loss on what side -to assail them, there being no access at any point through the ravines, -while on the other side, the first wall appeared too firm for the -engines, he determined to make the assault opposite to the monument of -John, the high priest, for at this point the outer bulwark was lower, -and the second was not connected, the builders having neglected to -fortify those places where the new town was thinly inhabited; but there -was easy access to the third wall, through which he designed to capture -the upper town, and through the Antonia, the temple." V. VI. 2. - -[Sidenote: Suburbs.] - -"He at once gave the legions permission to lay waste the suburbs, and -ordered them to collect the timber together for the construction of -mounds." V. VI. 2. - -[Sidenote: Taking of the first Wall.] - -"... The Romans having mounted where Nico had effected a breach, they -all abandoned their posts, and retreated to the second wall; when those -who had scaled the ramparts opened the gates, and admitted the entire -army. The Romans having thus, on the fifteenth day, which was the -seventh of the month Artemisius, become masters of the first wall, laid -a great part of it in ruins, as they did the northern quarters of the -city, which Cestius had formerly demolished." V. VII. 2. - -[Sidenote: Titus occupies the space between the camp of the Assyrians -and the Kedron.] - -[Sidenote: Gate of the aqueducts.] - -"Titus now transferred his camp to a place within the wall, styled the -Camp of the Assyrians, occupying the entire interval as far as the -Kedron, but keeping at such a distance from the second rampart as to be -out of range of the missiles, and immediately commenced the attack. The -Jews, dividing their forces, made a vigorous defence from the wall; John -and his party fighting from the Antonia, from the north colonnade of the -temple, and in front of the monuments of king Alexander; while Simon's -band, intercepting the assault near John's monument, manned the -intervening space as far as the gate through which the water was -introduced to the tower Hippicus." V. VII. 3. - -[Sidenote: Titus makes himself master of the second Wall.] - -"On the fifth day after the reduction of the first wall Caesar stormed -the second at this point; and as the Jews fled from it, he entered with -a thousand men, and the select band which he retained about his person, -at that part of the new town where were the wool-marts, the braziers' -shops, and the clothes market, and where the streets led obliquely to -the ramparts." V. VIII. 1. - -[Sidenote: Titus exhibits his troops.] - -"The cessation he employed for his own purposes. The stated day for -distributing pay among the troops having arrived, he directed the -officers to draw out the force, and count out the money to each man in -view of the enemy." V. IX. 1. - -[Sidenote: The Jews see the review of the troops Titus.] - -"And nothing could be more gratifying to the Romans, or more terrifying -to the enemy than that spectacle. The whole of the ancient wall and the -northern quarter of the temple were crowded with spectators, and the -houses were to be seen filled with people on the look-out; nor was there -a spot in the city which was not covered with multitudes." V. IX. 1. - -[Sidenote: The Idumaeans.] - -"Those at work beside the monument, the Idumaeans, and the troops of -Simon, impeded by repeated sallies; while those before the Antonia were -obstructed by John and his associates, in conjunction with the Zealots." -V. IX. 2. - -[Sidenote: Mounds and their positions. Struthios reservoir.] - -[Sidenote: Amygdalon.] - -"One of those at the Antonia was thrown up by the fifth legion, opposite -to the middle of the reservoir, called Struthios; and the other by the -twelfth legion at the distance of about twenty cubits. The tenth legion, -which was considerably apart from these, was occupied on the northern -quarter, and by the reservoir designated Amygdalon, and about thirty -cubits from thence the fifteenth legion, at the high-priest's monument." -V. XI. 4. - -[Sidenote: The assailants make the wall of circumvallation.] - -"Commencing at the camp of the Assyrians, where his own tent was -pitched, he drew the wall to the lower Caenopolis, and thence through the -Kedron to the Mount of Olives. Then bending back towards the south, he -encompassed the mount as far as the rock called Peristereon, and the -adjoining hill, which overhangs the ravine near Siloam. Thence inclining -towards the west, he went down into the valley of the Fountain, beyond -which he ascended by the monument of the high-priest Ananus, and, taking -in the mount where Pompey encamped, turned to the north, proceeding as -far as a hamlet, called 'The house of Erebinths:' passing which, he -enclosed Herod's monument, and on the east once more united it to his -own camp at the point whence it commenced. - -"The wall was in length forty furlongs, wanting one. Attached to it on -the outside were thirteen forts, whose united circumferences measured -ten furlongs." V. XII. 2. - -[Sidenote: Number of the dead.] - -"Mannaeus, the son of Lazarus, who at this period took refuge with Titus, -declared that, from the fourteenth of the month of Xanthicus, the day on -which the Romans encamped before the walls, until the new moon of -Panemus, there were carried through that one gate which had been -entrusted to him, a hundred and fifteen thousand eight hundred and -eighty corpses." V. XIII. 7. - -[Sidenote: Number of the dead.] - -"After him many of the higher ranks escaped; and they brought word that -full six hundred thousand of the humbler classes had been thrown out -through the gates. Of the others it was impossible to ascertain the -number." V. XIII. 7. - -[Sidenote: Excavations in Jerusalem.] - -"The Jews fled into the temple; the Romans also making their way in -through the mine which John had excavated under their mounds." VI. I. 7. - -[Sidenote: Titus destroys the Tower Antonia.] - -"Titus now ordered his troops to raze the foundations of the Antonia, -and prepare an easy ascent for his whole force." VI. II. 1. - -[Sidenote: Titus enters the outer court of the Temple.] - -"In the meantime, the remainder of the Roman force, having in seven days -overturned the foundation of the Antonia, had prepared a wide ascent as -far as the temple. The legions now approached the first wall, and -commenced their mounds--one opposite the north-west angle of the inner -temple, a second at the northern chamber, which was between the two -gates, and of the remaining two, one at the western colonnade of the -outer court of the temple, the other without, at the northern." VI. II. -7. - -[Sidenote: Titus takes the Temple.] - -"Titus now withdrew into the Antonia, determined on the following -morning about daybreak to attack with his whole force and invest the -temple. That edifice God had, indeed, long since destined to the flames; -but now in revolving years had arrived the fated day, the tenth of the -month Lous, the very day on which the former temple had been burned by -the king of Babylon." VI. IV. 5. - -[Sidenote: Bridge of Xystus.] - -"Titus took his stand on the western side of the outer court of the -temple; there being a gate in that quarter beyond the Xystus, and a -bridge which connected the upper town with the temple, and which then -intervened between the tyrants and Caesar." VI. VI. 2. - -[Sidenote: Titus gives up the city to pillage.] - -"Orders were then issued to the troops to plunder and burn the city. On -that day, however, nothing was done; but on the following day they set -fire to the residence of the magistrates, the Acra, the council chamber, -and the place called Ophla, the flames spreading as far as the palace of -queen Helena, which was in the centre of the Acra. The streets also were -consumed." VI. VI. 3. - -[Sidenote: The Romans in the lower town.] - -"On the ensuing day the Romans, having driven the brigands from the -lower town, burned all, as far as Siloam." VI. VII. 2. - -[Sidenote: Titus attacks the upper city.] - -"The works of the four legions were raised on the western side of the -city, opposite to the royal palace, while the auxiliaries and the rest -of the force laboured in the region of the Xystus, the bridge, and the -tower which Simon, during his contest with John, had built as a fortress -for himself." VI. VIII. 1. - -[Sidenote: Destruction of the city.] - -"And when, at a later period, he destroyed the remainder of the city, -and razed the walls, he allowed these towers to stand as a memorial of -the favour of fortune, by whose cooperation he had become master of -those strongholds, which could never have been reduced by force of -arms." VI. IX. 1. - -[Sidenote: Number of Jews killed and taken prisoners.] - -"The whole number of prisoners taken during the entire course of the war -was calculated at ninety-seven thousand; while those who perished in the -siege, from its commencement to its close, amounted to one million one -hundred thousand. Of these the greater part were of Jewish blood, though -not natives of the place. Having assembled from the whole country for -the feast of unleavened bread, they were suddenly hemmed in by the war; -so that their confined situation caused at first a pestilential disease, -and afterwards famine also, still more rapid in its effects." VI. IX. 3. - -[Sidenote: Final destruction of Jerusalem.] - -"Caesar ordered the whole of the city and the sanctuary to be razed to -the foundations, leaving the three loftiest towers, Phasaelus, Hippicus, -and Mariamne, and that portion of the wall which enclosed the town on -the west; the latter as an encampment for those who should remain there -in garrison; the towers, to indicate to future times how splendid and -how strong a city had yielded to Roman valour. All the rest of the wall -that encompassed the city was so completely levelled with the ground -that there was no longer anything to lead those who visited the spot to -believe that it had ever been inhabited. So fell Jerusalem, a victim of -revolutionary frenzy: a magnificent city, and celebrated throughout the -world." VII. I. 1. - - * * * * * - -[Sidenote: Population of Jerusalem indicated by Hecataeus of Abdera.] - -"There are many strong places and villages in the country of Judaea, but -one strong city there is, about fifty furlongs in circumference, which -is inhabited by a hundred and twenty thousand men or thereabout." -(Against Apion, I. 22.) - - - - -INDEX. - - - A. - - Abraham, Mount Moriah the scene of his sacrifice, 46, 47. - - Abraham, S., Greek Convent of, 111. - - Absalom, his tomb examined, 181. - - Abyssinians in Jerusalem, their number, 13. - - Aceldama, description of, 206; - its curious legend tested, 207. - - Acra, the hill of, identified, 17, 18, 20; - levelled under the Maccabees, 52. - - Adam, Chapel of, 106, 113. - - Adamnanus, his account of the Mosque of Omar, 58. - - Adoration of the Cross, Chapel of, in the Church of the - Resurrection, 122. - - Aelia Capitolina, Jerusalem so named by Hadrian, 2, 3, 6, 43. - - Agony, Chapel of the, 112; - Grotto of, 177, Note X. 309. - - Agrippa's Walls, 35, 37, 41. - - Altar in Chapel of the Crucifixion, 122. - - Altar of burnt-offerings, its position and dimensions, 54; - its site proved to be on the Sacred Rock, 89; - the cisterns beneath it examined, 97. - See Araunah. - - Americans, their wanton destruction of monuments, 233. - - Amygdalon pool, probably Hezekiah's, 32; - identified from the Bible, 252; - the cisterns filled from it, 259. - - Ananus, Monument of, its site, 40. - - Angel, Chapel of the, in Holy Sepulchre, 116. - - Angels, the Holy, Church of, 156. - - Annas, the High Priest, traditionary site of his house, 156. - - Ann, S., Church of, its present state, 144; - its history and vicissitudes, 145; Notes II. III. 306. - - Ann, S., pretended tomb of, 175. - - Antiochus Epiphanes despoils the second temple, 51. - - Antonia, tower of, 17, 18, 19, 55, 137; - its supposed site, 32; - its site in the N.W. angle of the Haram, 59, 64. - - Antoninus of Piacenza, his account of Justinian's Basilica, 79; Note - XXXIV. 295. - - Aqueduct from Etham, its skilful construction, 249; - subsequent history, 250. - - Arabs, the number of, in Jerusalem, 11; - their position, 273. - - Araunah, threshing-floor of, 24; - its history and description, 47; - cisterns beneath it, 47; - it survives the destruction of Solomon's temple, 50; - Mosque built over it by Omar, 57; - identical with the Sacred Rock, 88; - and the Altar of burnt-offerings, 89; - cisterns beneath it examined, 97; Notes IV. 291, and XVI. 292. - - Arch of the Ecce Homo investigated, 60, 140, Note I. 306. - - Arch, remarkable fragment of one, in S.W. angle of the Haram, 70. - - Arculf, his account of Christ's Tomb, 116; - his description of the Holy places, Note IV. 299. - - Armenians, their numbers and position in Jerusalem, 12; - their Convents, 16, 164; - their prospects, 162; - their charitable institutions, 278. - - Ascension, the Mount of, its site on the Mount of Olives, 191; - grand panorama from its summit, 193; - its traditionary spots examined, 194; - successive Churches built upon it, _ib._; - the present Mosque, 196; - Tomb of S. Pelagia, 197. - - - B. - - Babylas, S., ruins of Church of, 242. - - Baris Castle on Moriah, 52; - restored as Antonia Tower by Herod, 55; - pontifical robes kept in it, Note XI. 292. - - Barrack in the Haram, 20; - the rock near it the site of Antonia Tower, 59, 64. - - Bathsheba, traditionary pool of, 259. - - Bazaar of the Haram gate, 54. - - Bazaars of Jerusalem, 78. - - Benjamin, high gate of, its doubtful site, 26. - - Bethany, its site incontestable, 200; - proofs of this, 201; - Tomb and house of Lazarus there, 202. - - Bethesda, pool of, 15, 20, 59; - its history and present state, 65; - its connection with the temple sacrifices, 92; - its masonry examined, 260. - - Bethphage, site of, 199. - - Bethsura, fortress of, 22. - - Betrayal, the, traditionary site of, 179. - - Bezetha, position of, 18. - - Bible, the Holy, passages from it bearing upon the statements in this - work, 315. - - Bird of Solomon, 86; - legend of, Note XXXVII. 296. - - Bir Eyub, see Joab, well of. - - Birket es-Sultan (Prince's pool), 15; - account of, 96, 209. - - Bishops of Jerusalem, list of, Note II. 297. - - Bordeaux, Pilgrim of, his description of Jerusalem, Note XI. 287. - - Breydenbach, his account of Christ's Tomb, 117. - - Bridge between Moriah and Sion, 70; - supposed site of that mentioned by Josephus, 71, 74. - - Bridge (invisible), of Mohammed, its position and legend, 76. - - Broad wall, its supposed site, 27. - - Buildings, modern, in the neighbourhood of Jerusalem, 5. - - Buildings of Saracenic period in Jerusalem, 153. - - Burial-places of Kings of Judah, Note XVI. 310. - - - C. - - Cadytis of Herodotus, possibly Jerusalem, 2. - - Caiaphas, site of his house on Sion, 220. - - Calvary, Chapel of the, 105. - - Calvary, position of, 103; - its site questionable, 105; - its present appearance, 122. - - Camp of the Assyrians, its site, 40. - - Caverns, the Royal, account of, 226; - method of quarrying them, 227; - danger in exploring them, 228. - - Chamber of the Cradle of Jesus, 77. - - Chosroes II. destroys the Basilica of Constantine, 108. - - Christ, His Tomb described, 116. - - Christian quarter of Jerusalem, 9. - - Chronological summary of the history of Jerusalem, 311. - - Cistern beneath the supposed site of Eudoxia's Church, 169. - - Cisterns for water and grain described, 47; - their necessity for the Temple services, 49; - they survive the destruction of Solomon's temple, 50; - examination of those beneath the Haram, 90; - conclusions drawn from this, 100; - their number in Jerusalem, 261. - - Climate of Jerusalem, 10. - - Coenaculum, traditions connected with it, 216; - the buildings on its site, 217; - its present state, 219; Note XVII. 310. - - Coins found in the Kidron, 170. - - Column, gate of the, 6. - See Damascus gate. - - Columns of proof, 81. - - Commerce of Jerusalem, 265. - - Constantine the Great destroys the Temple of Jupiter on the site of - the Temple, 57; - his Basilica on the true site of the Holy Sepulchre, 105; - description of, by Eusebius, Note III. 297; - destruction of this by Chosroes II. 108. - - Constantine, S., Greek Convent of, 12, 111, 163. - - Copts, their numbers in Jerusalem, 13; - their Convent, 126, 165; - their charitable institutions, 269. - - Corner-gate, its supposed site, 21. - - Cotton Merchants' gate, 74. - - Court of the Gentiles in the Temple, 53. - - Court of the Israelites, or Priests, 54. - - Cradle of Jesus, Chamber containing it, 77. - - Crassus plunders the Second Temple, 52. - - Crosses on Calvary, their probable position, 106. - - Cross, Invention of the, Chapel of, in the Church of the - Resurrection, 121. - - Cross, S., Greek Convent of, its history and traditions, 242; - the Church described, 243, Note III. 306. - - Crucifixion, Chapel of, in the Church of the Resurrection, 122. - - Crusaders, their works at Jerusalem, 43; - they consecrate the Mosque of Omar as a Christian church, 59; - their various positions during the siege of Jerusalem, 241; - the architectural characteristics of their walls, Note V. 286. - - Cubit measure, its relative value, Note II. 282. - - Cyril, S., on the Tomb of Christ, 118. - - Cyrus permits the rebuilding of the Temple, 50. - - - D. - - Damascus Gate, 6, 8, 15, 36; - Cufic inscription on it, 223. - - Daughters of Sion, Convent of, excavations beneath it, 60; - discovery of a spring there, 63; - its course traced, 258; - the Convent described, 162. - - David, the Castle of, 6; - its present state, 159. - - David, the City of, identified from Josephus, 16; - its wall discovered, 23. - - David, King, his purchase of the threshing floor of Araunah, 46; - his hydraulic works at Jerusalem, 245; - the architectural characteristics of his walls, Note V. 285; - traditionary site of his judgement-seat, 86, Note XXXVI. 295. - - David, Millo of, its site discussed, 23-25. - - David, Sepulchres of, their site, 27. - - David, street of, 9, 15. - - David, street of the Castle of, 16. - - David, the Tomb of, the authenticity of its site proved, 210; - the sarcophagus fictitious, 214; - the vault near it the probable Sepulchre of the Jewish Kings, 215. - - Dead Sea, where visible from Jerusalem, 35. - - Dervishes, various orders of, at Jerusalem, 165. - - Dives, Palace of, fictitious site of, 142. - - Divisions of Jerusalem, 8. - - Dome of the Holy Sepulchre, 114. - - Dome of the Rock, its position on Moriah, 45; - date of its erection, 58; - detailed description of, 85; - the cisterns beneath it examined, 97; - see Omar, Mosque of, Rock, the Sacred. - - Dragon Well, its supposed site, 27. - - Drainage system of Jerusalem, its divisions, Note I. 281. - - Dung Gate, the, 7, 15, 27; - false tradition concerning it, 70, Note XXXI. 295. - - - E. - - East Gate, the, its supposed site, 27; - the site of the present Golden Gate, 69. - - Ecce Homo, the arch of, 60, 140, Note I. 306. - - El-Aksa Mosque, originally Justinian's Basilica, 57; - this proved by history, 59; - gateway beneath it, 69; - its architectural history, 78; - description of it, 80; - monolith in its vaults, 82; - this taken from the royal caverns, 227. - - England, Church of, cause of its unpopularity with the Jews, 158; - its mission houses at Jerusalem, 165. - - Environs of Jerusalem, account of, 5; - the numerous ancient remains there, Notes III. IV. 284-5. - - Ephraim, Gate of, its supposed site, 26; - its exact site, 143; - when so called, 144. - - Erebinthi, house of, its site, 41. - - Essenes, Gate of, its site unknown, 31. - - Etham, the source of the water supply of Jerusalem, 14, 50, 73, 91, - 95, 100; - its pools described, 246; - reasons for assigning them to Solomon, 249; - their advantages in supplying Jerusalem, 250; - ruins of the Castle there, 246. - - Eudoxia, Empress, supposed site of her Church, 169; - her Church dedicated to S. Stephen, 224. - - Evil Counsel, Hill of, 4; - its site identified, 21; - its legend and account of the tombs there, 205; - the ruins on its summit, 208. - - Extent of Jerusalem northward examined, 39. - - - F. - - Fish Gate, its supposed site, 26, 27. - - Flagellation, the, Chapel of, 139. - - Food, the supply of, at Jerusalem, 264. - - Fortress of the Jebusites, its probable position, 16, 22. - - Fountain Gate, its supposed site, 27. - - Fountain of the Virgin, 15, 91; - description of it, 184; - its water system examined, 254; - cause of its intermittent flow, 257. - - Franciscan Convent in the Church of the Resurrection, 120, 160, - Notes IV. V. 307; - the Good Friday service there, Note XV. 305. - - Fuller's Monument, its supposed site, 39. - - Fuller's Pool, 241. - - Furnaces, tower of the, supposed site, 27. - - - G. - - Gardens, Gate of, 7; - see Herod, Gate of. - - Gareb, Hill of, 18. - - Gate between two walls, its probable site, 26. - - Gates of Jerusalem at the present time, 6; - before the Captivity, 26; - as rebuilt by Nehemiah, 27; - as described by Josephus, 28; - M. Munk's enumeration of them, Note VII. 286; - Arabic inscriptions above them, Note IV. 281; - regulations for closing them, Note V. _ib._ - - Gennath Gate, its probable site, 32. - - Gethsemane, its site indubitable, 177; - its present state, 178. - - Gihon, Mount, 4; - its site identified, 21. - - Gihon, Upper Pool of, see Mamillah. - - Gihon, Valley of, 4, 17; - examination of it, 208. - - Giles, S., supposed Church of, 153. - - Golden Gate, the, 7, 27; - its architecture, and present condition, 67; - the view from its top, 76; - Mohammedan tradition concerning it, _ib._; - legends connected with it, Notes XXIX. XXX. 294, XXXIII. 295. - - Golgotha, its identity questionable, 107; - its present appearance, 122. - - Golgotha, the Cistern of, 260. - - Good Friday, Franciscan Service upon, Note XV. 305. - - Greeks, their number and position in Jerusalem, 12; - their chapel in the Church of the Resurrection, 120; - their convents in Jerusalem, 163, Note VI. 307; - their nunneries, 164; - their charitable institutions, 278; - the accommodation for their pilgrims, _ib._ - - Greek Catholics, their Convent at Jerusalem, 162. - - Grotto of the Agony, account of, 177, Note X. 309. - - - H. - - Hadrian rebuilds Jerusalem, 3, 6; - its form and size unaltered, 43; - builds a temple to Jupiter on the site of the Temple, 57. - - Hammam-es-Shefa, 15, 91, 257. - - Haram es-Sherif, 18; - its history, 57; - proved to be Mount Moriah, 59; - north side examined, 63; - Antonia Tower in north-west angle, 64; - the east side, 65; - the foundation of the east wall the work of Solomon, 66; - the south wall examined, 69; - the west side, 70; - remarkable arch in south-west angle, _ib._; - its interior described, 75; - its three elevations examined, 88; - its water system and subterranean works investigated, 90; - conclusion arrived at, 100; - regulations and difficulties of admission to it, Notes I. II. 290. - - Hebron, Gate of, 8; - see Jaffa Gate. - - Helena of Adiabene, her monument, 223. - - Helena, S., Tomb of, its probable site, 37; - Chapel of, 111, 121; - throne of, 112; - Abyssinian Church of, 125; - the so-called cistern of, 126, 260; - her traditionary hospital, 150; - her churches on the Mount of Ascension, 194, 197; - her work at the Tomb of the Virgin, 170, Note IV. 308; - at Aceldama, 207; - her church near the Grotto of Jeremiah, 228; - Justinian's Basilica wrongly ascribed to her, Note XV. 292. - - Herod Antipas, site of his palace, 141. - - Herod, Gate of, 7, 39. - - Herod the Great, his splendid additions to Jerusalem, 3; - his monument, 41; - its suggested site, 242; - he builds the third Temple, 52; - description of his masonry, 67; - a portion of his wall described by De Saulcy, 72. - - Herodian Walls, their architectural characteristics, Note V. 286. - - Herods, the, Jerusalem under their sway, 28. - - Hezekiah, his pool, 14; - the supposed Millo of David, 24, 25, 32; - traces of his wall, 25. - - Hierosolyma, derivation of by Lysimachus, 2. - - Hinnom, Valley of, 4, 17, 22; - its course examined, 204; - origin of the name, Note XV. 309. - - Hippicus tower, its supposed site, 28. - - Holy Fire, Greek Festival of, account of, Note XIV. 304. - - Holy Sabbath, Armenian festival, account of, Note XIV. 305. - - Holy Sepulchre; the question of its site examined, 102; - its traditionary history traced, 103; - Eusebius's account of it, 105; - the monument described, 115; - its interior and the tomb examined, 116; - proofs of its genuineness, 117; - stones said to have closed it, 220; Notes XI. XII. 303-4; - Arculf's description of it, Note IV. 299. - - Horse Gate, its supposed site, 26. - - Hosea, supposed tomb of, 184. - - House of Erebinthi, its site, 41. - - House of the Prince, 126. - - Houses in Jerusalem, their present state, 266. - - Huldah, Gate of, 7, 70, 82. - - Huldah Prophetess, her tomb on Mount Ascension, 197. - - - I. - - Ibrahim, Mosque of, 127. - - Inhabitants of Jerusalem, 268. - - Inspector's Gate, 75; - legend connected with it, 295. - - Invention of the Cross, Chapel of, in the Church of the - Resurrection, 121. - - Iron Gate, 74. - - Isaiah, tradition as to his death and tomb, 187. - - Israel, minaret of, 75. - - - J. - - Jacob's Dream: Mount Moriah possibly the scene of it, 46. - - Jadagat el-Ahel, Grotto of the "store of food," 38; - tradition concerning it, 236. - - Jaffa Gate, 8, 26, 27; - regulations for closing it, Note V. 281. - - Jaffa, port of, its accommodation for travellers, 262. - - James, S., the Great, Church of, its history and description, 157; - tomb of described, 183. - - James, S., the Less, Church of, 158. - - Jebusites, their connection with Jerusalem, 1, 2; - situation of their fortress, 16, 22; - condition of Jerusalem in their time, 22; - the architectural characteristics of their walls, Note V. 285. - - Jehoshaphat, Gate of, 7. - - Jehoshaphat, Tomb of, explored, 180. - - Jehoshaphat, Valley of, explored, 167; - its dreary solemnity, 179; - its monuments examined, 180; - conclusions regarding them, 184; - belief connected with it, 168; Note V. 307. - - Jehovah-jireh, the probable equivalent of Moriah, 17. - - Jeremiah, Grotto of, described, 228; - its tradition examined, 229. - - Jerome, S., on the residence of Melchizedek, 1. - - Jesus, the chamber of His cradle, 77; - His tomb described, 116; - the spot where He was crowned with thorns, 138; - scourged, 139; - shewn by Pilate, 140; - the Station of His first fall in the Via Dolorosa, 141; - place of the meeting with His mother, _ib._; - with Simon the Cyrenian, 142; - His second fall, 143; - meeting with the Daughters of Jerusalem, 144; - His third fall, _ib._; - the tree to which He was bound, 156; - the site of His betrayal, 179; - spot where He wept over the city, 190; - the scene of His Ascension, 191, 193; - prints of His feet on Mount Ascension, 197. - - Jewish Quarter of Jerusalem, 9. - - Jews of Jerusalem, their social habits, 9; - their numbers and sectarian divisions, 10; - their objection to enter the Temple enclosure, 154; - their Synagogues, 155; - cause of their dislike to the Church of England, 158; - their cemetery in the Valley of Jehoshaphat, 180; - their hospice in the Valley of Gihon, 208; - their degraded condition in Jerusalem, 271; - their charitable institutions there, 277. - - Jews' Wailing place, 72, 154. - - Joab, the well of, visited, 188; - detailed account of, 253; - curious legend concerning it, 254. - - Joachim, S., pretended tomb of, 175. - - John, S., of Jerusalem, Hospital of, its history, 129; - state of its remains, 131; - its original position, 133; Notes XVI. XVIII. 306. - - Joseph of Arimathea, his tomb, 119. - - Joseph, S., his pretended tomb, 175. - - Joseph, S., sisters of, their convent, 162. - - Josephus, his account of the city of David verified, 16; - identification of his "New City," 18; - of the Tyropoeon, 19; - of Ophel and Mount Olivet, 21; - Mount Shafat, 22; - his account of the city of the Herods our sole authority, 28; - his exaggeration of the population of Jerusalem, 41; - the passages from his Antiquities of the Jews illustrating this - work, 323; - ditto from the Jewish War, 327. - - Jotham, his wall on Ophel, 25. - - Judah, kings of, their burial places, Note XVI. 310. - - Judgement Gate, legend of, 143. - - Judges, the tombs of, described, 239. - - Julian the Apostate attempts to rebuild the Temple, 57; - the so-called miracle which prevented this, Note XIV. 292. - - Jupiter, Temple to, on the site of the Temple built and destroyed, 57. - - Justinian, his Basilica near the site of the Temple, 57; - converted into a mosque, _ib._; - into a dwelling-house, 59; - its ruins, 70; - its history and description, 78; - Antoninus of Piacenza's account of it, Note XXXIV. 295. - - - K. - - Kerm es-Sheikh (ancient Arab house), curious tradition concerning - it, 230. - - Kidron torrent, its present state, 169; - coins found in its bed, 170; - the pool forming its source, 283. - - Kidron, pool of, 14; account of it, 256. - - Kidron Valley, 4, 5, 18; - exploration of it, 167; - the site of the King's dale, 182, Note II. 308. - - King's garden, the, identified, 27. - - Kings, Jewish, their Tombs on Mount Sion, 215; - their burial places as mentioned in the Bible, Note XVI. 310. - - Kings, Latin, their tombs, 113; - Inscriptions on them, Note XI. 303. - - Knights Hospitaler, account of, 129. - - Knights Templar, their stables in the vaults of the Haram, 78. - - Kubbet es-Sakharah, see Dome of the Rock; Omar, Mosque of. - - - L. - - Land proprietors at Jerusalem, 268. - - Latin Kings, their tombs, 113; - Inscriptions on them, Note XI. 303. - - Latin Patriarchate, the, 152. - - Latins, their chapel in the Church of the Resurrection, 120; - their charitable institutions at Jerusalem, 278. - - Lazarus (the beggar), fictitious site of his house, 142. - - Lazarus, his tomb in Bethany, 202; - ruins of his convent and house there, 203. - - Lepers, their houses and miserable appearance, 221. - - "Lower City" of the Jebusites, its position, 22. - - "Lower pool" of Isaiah, see Birket es-Sultan, Prince's Pool. - - Lysimachus, his derivation of Hierosolyma, 2. - - - M. - - Maccabees, the, recover the second Temple, 52. - - Magdalene, Church of the, its history and remains, 148. - - Mamillah, pool of, 5, 14; - identified as the "Upper pool," 241; - description of it, 251; - identified from the Bible, 252. - - Manasseh, traces of his wall, 26. - - Mariamne Tower, its supposed site, 28. - - Mariti (Abbe), on the position of the three Crosses, 106; - on the arch of the Ecce Homo, 140. - - Mark, S., traditional site of his house, 158. - - Mary, S., of Egypt, Oratory of, 112. - - Mary, S., the Virgin, tradition, &c. of her birth-place, 145, 6, 7; - Chapel of her Nativity, 150; - her tomb, 148; - erected by S. Helena, 170; - enquiries as to the Church built over it, 171; - its present state, 175; - site of her house on Sion, 219; Notes III. to XII. 308-9. - - Mary, S., the Great, ruins of Church of, 125; - its history, 128; - present state of its remains, 130. - - Mary, S., the Less, Church of, its history, 129; - its present state, 130. - - Mary, S., Gate of, 78. - - Mary, Lady, Pool of the bath of, 7, 14, 167. - - Masonry of east wall of Haram, 66; - Solomon's and Herod's compared, 67; Note V. 286. - - Meah, tower of, its site, 27. - - Measures, Hebrew, their relative value, Note II. 282. - - Mekhemeh, or Mohammedan Court of Justice, 73. - - Melchizedek, his residence according to S. Jerome, 1. - - Milisendis, Queen, her Convent of S. Lazarus at Bethany, 203. - - Millo of David, its probable site, 24. - - Millo of Solomon, 25. - - Mislin, M., his account of the so-called tomb of David, 212. - - Mogarabins, the, gate and wall of, 72; - Mosque of, 85. - - Mohammedan quarter of Jerusalem, 9. - - Mohammedans, they capture Jerusalem, 57; - their number and position there, 11; - their charitable institutions, 277. - - Mohammed's invisible bridge, its position and legend, 76. - - Moloch, account of the worship of, Note XV. 309. - - Monks dwelling in the Church of the Resurrection, remarks on, 122; - disputes among them, 124. - - Monolith in the vaults of El-Aksa, 82; - this taken from the royal caverns, 227. - - Montefiore, Sir M., his Hospice for Jews, 208. - - Moriah, Mount, identified, 17, 18; - added to the city by Solomon, 24; - its site unquestionable, 41; - the author's opportunities of exploring it, 46; - its history, _ib._; - its appearance changed by the Temple, 49; - fortified by Simon Maccabeus, 52; - proved to be the present Haram es-Sherif, 59. - - Mosaic work in the Dome of the Rock, 87; Note XXXVIII. 296. - - Moses, chapel of, 99. - - Mountains round Jerusalem, 4, 21; - within the city, 16. - - Munk, on the Babylonish Captivity, Note VII. 291. - - - N. - - Name of Jerusalem, its origin and meaning, 1. - - Nebuchadnezzar destroys Jerusalem, 2, - and Solomon's Temple, 50. - - Neby Samwil village, position of, 4; Note II. 281. - - Nehemiah completes the rebuilding of Jerusalem, 3; - aspect of the city in his time, 27; - characteristics of his masonry, Note V. 285; - tradition attached to his well, 188. - - "New City" of Josephus identified, 18. - - Nicanor's Gate in the Temple, 54; - tradition regarding its doors, Note X. 292. - - Nicodemus, his tomb, 119. - - Nicoforus, Archimandrite, his agricultural improvements in the - neighbourhood of Jerusalem, 5, 208, 244. - - Northern extent of Jerusalem examined, 39. - - North Gate of Josephus, its site, 36. - - - O. - - Offence, Mount of, its position indisputable, 21; - its present state, 189; - forms the third summit of Mount Olivet, 191. - - Old Gate, its supposed site, 27. - - Olivet, Mount, 4; - Panoramic view from its summit, 8, 16; - its position indisputable, 21; - its points of interest examined, 190; - its three summits, 191; - histories attached to these, 192. - - Olive-tree, traditionary, to which our Saviour was bound, 156; - those remaining in the garden of Gethsemane, 178; Note XIII. 309. - - Omar, Mosque of, built over the threshing-floor of Araunah, 57; - this proved by history, 58, 59; Notes XVI-XXIV. XXVI. 292-4; - see Dome of the Rock. - - Omar, Mosque of, the octagonal monument so called, 81, 130; - Note VI. 286. - - Omar, remains of his boys' school and hospital, 153. - - Onuphrius, chapel of, on the Hill of Evil Counsel, 206. - - Ophel, the hill of 18; - its site identified, 21; - works of defence on, 25, 26. - - Oratory near the Haram barrack, 75. - - - P. - - Palace of the Council, its supposed site, 30; - of Dives, its fictitious site, 142; - of Herod Antipas, its site, 141. - - Panorama of Jerusalem from Mount Olivet, 8. - - Passages from the Holy Bible bearing on the statements in this - work, 315. - - Patriarch's Pool, 241. - - Pelagia, S., her tomb on Mount Ascension, 197. - - Peristerion, the supposed site of, 40. - - Peter, S., Church of, 150. - - Peter's, S. prison, traditional site of, 158 - - Peter, S. at the Cock-crow, ruins of Church of, 221. - - Phasaelus Tower, its supposed site, 28. - - Pilate, conduit of, 14. - - Pilgrims, the numbers of, visiting Jerusalem, 10; - their unseemly conduct at the Holy Sepulchre, 123; - the different communities of, at Jerusalem, 274. - - Pilgrim's Pool, 7, 14; - account of it, and its traditions, 229. - - Pisans, castle of the, 159; - Adrichomius' account of, Note VIII. 286. - - Place of the Ashes, 50; - its probable position, 89, 91, 100. - - Pompeius the Great captures the second Temple, 52. - - Pools of Jerusalem, 14, 27. - - "Pool that was made," the, (Birket es-Sultan), 27, 96. - - Population of Jerusalem, 10; - compared with its size, 14; - at the time of Alexander the Great, 41; - exaggerated by Josephus, _ib._ - - Postal system at Jerusalem, 264. - - Potter's field, the site of, 206. - - Praetorium, the, situated in the Antonia Tower, 55, 64; - its position identified, 137. - - Prince's Pool, (Birket es-Sultan), 15, 96, 209. - - Procopius, his account of the Basilica of Justinian, 78, 83. - - Prophets, the tombs of, 198; - their authenticity considered, 199. - - Proselytism at Jerusalem, its failure, 273, 4. - - Protestants, their number in Jerusalem, 13. - - Protestant Missions at Jerusalem, their ill success, 172; - their charitable institutions, 278. - - Provisions, supply of, at Jerusalem, 264. - - Prussian Mission-house at Jerusalem, 165. - - Psephinus tower, its supposed site, 35. - - - Q. - - Quarries used for the Temple and walls, 38; see Royal Caverns. - - Quarries of red breccia, 243. - - - R. - - Ramah identified with Neby Samwil, Note II. 281. - - Ramleh, its accommodation for travellers, 262. - - Religious communities in Jerusalem, 10, 13. - - Resurrection, Church of the, its history, 108; - its present dangerous condition, 110; - its exterior described, _ib._; - its interior, 113; - the great Dome, 114; - state of the Monks living there, 122; - Pilgrims visiting it, 123; - account of its neighbourhood, 125; Notes III.-XIII. 299-304; - see Holy Sepulchre. - - Retreat of the Apostles, see James, S. tomb of. - - Road of the Capture, 182. - - Robinson, Dr, his opinion of the Tyropoeon disputed, 19. - - Rock near the Haram barrack, site of the Tower Antonia, 59, 64. - - Rock, the Sacred, description of, 87; - proved to be the site of the threshing-floor of Araunah, 88; - and the Altar of burnt-offerings, 89; - legends and traditions connected with it, Notes III. IV. XXXIX. - XL. 291, 296. - - Rogel, its supposed site, 188; - Fountain of, see Joab, Fountain of. - - Roman Catholics, their number and position in Jerusalem, 12. - - Roman inscription on El-Aksa gateway, 69. - - Roman Walls, the characteristics of their masonry, Note V. 286. - - Rossellane the Sultana, her munificence, 59; - description of her hospital, 151; - view from its roof, 152. - - Royal Caverns of Josephus, their supposed site, 38; - description of them, 226. - - Russia, her position in Jerusalem, 13. - - Russians, their conventual buildings in Jerusalem, 13, 240; - their charitable institutions, 279. - - - S. - - Saewulf, his account of the Holy Places, Note V. 300. - - Saladin's school, fragment of, 74; - his hospice, 127; - his generosity to the Christians, Note XXV. 294. - - Salem and Jerusalem distinct places, 1. - - Sanhedrim, hall of, in the Temple, 54. - - Sanitary condition of Jerusalem, 9, 15, 261. - - Saracenic buildings in Jerusalem, 153; - the characteristics of their masonry, Note V. 286. - - Saviour, S. Church of, on Mount Sion, 220; - Convent of, 160. - - Scala Sancta, the, in Via Dolorosa, 138. - - Scopus, Mount, 4; - Note from Josephus upon, Note III. 281; - see Shafat. - - Sea of Bronze, its dimensions, 49; Note VI. 291. - - Sects, Christian, at Jerusalem, their animosity to each other, 269; - their property, &c. 270. - - Sennacherib, spot of his encampment, 241. - - Sepulchre, the Holy; see Holy Sepulchre. - - Sepulchre, vertical, near the Tombs of the Kings, 236. - - Sepulchres, Mount of the, 4, 205. - - Serai, the, Minaret of, 75. - - Serpents' pool, 241. - - Sewer discovered near the Convent of the daughters of Sion, 62. - - Sewers of Jerusalem, 15, 19. - - Shafat, mountain of, 4; - its site identified, 22. - - Shaveh, the valley of, 1. - - Sheep-gate, its supposed site, 27. - - Shefa, Bath of, 15, 16, 91. - - Sheikh Jerrah, Arab building, 236. - - Siloam, fountain of, its undoubted site, 31. - - Siloam, gardens of, 4, 5. - - Siloam, pool of, 8, 15; - its site identified, 8, 16; - reverence attached to it, 185; - its history, 186; - its present appearance, 187. - - Siloam, village of, described, 189; - ancient Egyptian monument there, 190. - - Simon the Cyrenian, spot of his meeting with Jesus in Via - Dolorosa, 142. - - Simon the Just, Tomb of, 237. - - Simon the Pharisee, traditionary site of his house, 148, 9. - - Sion gate, 7, 8. - - Sion, Mount, 6, 16, 17; - excavations there, 23; - examination of it, 209; - the tomb of David, 210; - Tombs of the Jewish Kings, 215; - the Coenaculum, 216; - the house of the Virgin, 219; - of Caiaphas, 220; - remains of antiquity found there, Note III. 284. - - Slaughter, valley of, 22. - - Society in Jerusalem, its present state, 268. - - Soil of the environs of Jerusalem, 5. - - Solomon, the Conduit of, 14; - his additions to the city of David, 24; - situation of his "Millo" and house, 25; - excavations in his pool, 31; - its present state, 187; - masonry of his wall described, 66; Note V. 285, XXVIII. 294; - traditional site of his throne, 76; - his hydraulic works at Jerusalem, 245, 6. - - Solomon's Temple; see Temple. - - Solyman the Magnificent restores the walls of Jerusalem, 6; - leaving their form unchanged, 44. - - Sources of water supply of Jerusalem, 14. - - Spring discovered near the Daughters of Sion Convent, 63; - great sensation caused by this, Note XXVII. 294. - - Springs in Jerusalem, 257. - - Stables of the Templars in the vaults of the Haram, 78. - - Stairs from the city of David, site of, 27. - - State of Jerusalem and its environs, 267. - - Station of the first fall in Via Dolorosa, 141; - of the second, 143; - of the third, 144. - - Stephen, S. gate of, 7. - - Stephen, S. pretended site of his martyrdom, 168; - the genuine site on the north of the city, 223; - the Empress Eudoxia's Church there, 224. - - Stone, the, of Unction, 114, 122. - - Stones of largest size in Solomon's walls, Note XXVIII. 294. - - Strato's Tower on Moriah, 52; - its site discovered, 62. - - Streets of Jerusalem, 8, 10; - their present state, 266; - the principal ones enumerated, Note VI. 282. - - Struthium pool, its supposed site, 64, 65. - - Syrian Convent, the, 164. - - Summary of the history of Jerusalem, 2. - - ---- chronological, of ditto, 311. - - - T. - - Tacitus, his description of Jerusalem, Note X. 287. - - Temple of Solomon, its site, 17; - stone quarries used for it, 38; - account of its building, 48; - its exact description impossible, _ib._; - its ground plan, 49; - water supply necessary for its services, _ib._; - its destruction by Nebuchadnezzar, 50; - its position fixed by the Sacred Rock, 88; - Rabbinical plan of, 90; - the principal modern accounts of it, Note V. 291. - - Temple, the Second, as rebuilt by Zerubbabel, 51; - its history, _ib._; - taken by Antiochus Epiphanes, _ib._; - recovered by the Maccabees, 52; - its subsequent history, _ib._; - its height according to Josephus, 51; Note VIII. 291. - - Temple, the third, as built by Herod the Great, 52; - its ground plan, _ib._; - dimensions, 54; - the scene of our Saviour's ministry, 55; - its destruction by Titus, 56; - subsequent history of its site, 57; - various writers upon it, Note IX. 292. - - Temple, dates of its burnings, Note XII. 292. - - Terrace roofs in the East, Note XLII. 297. - - Threshing-floors, ancient, description of, 47. - - Throne of Solomon, its traditional site, 76. - - Titus destroys Jerusalem and Herod's Temple, 3, 56; - the city at his time, 28; - his wall of circumvallation, 40; - the site of his head-quarters, 241. - - Tomb of the Lord's Body; see Holy Sepulchre. - - Tombs in the environs of Jerusalem, 5. - - Tombs in the Valley of Jehoshaphat examined, 180; - conclusions regarding them, 184. - - Tombs, Mount of the, 4, 205. - - Tombs of the Judges, account of, 239. - - Tombs of the Jewish Kings on Sion, 215. - - Tombs of the Kings examined; the vestibule, 232; - the sepulchral chambers, 233; - controversies as to their origin and use, 235. - - Tombs of the Latin Kings of Jerusalem, 113; - the inscriptions on them, Note XI. 303. - - Tombs of the Prophets, 198; - their authenticity considered, 199. - - Tophet in the Valley of Hinnom, 204; - probably the Hill of Evil Counsel, 21; - origin of the name, Note XV. 309. - - Tradesmen of Jerusalem, their extortion, 264. - - Traditions of the East, their unvarying character, Note IX. 286. - - Travellers at Jerusalem, advice to, 263, 266. - - Tree, traditionary, to which our Saviour was bound, 156. - - Turks in Jerusalem, their numbers, 11; - their extortion, 273. - - Tyre, William of, his account of the Mosque of Omar, 58; Note - XVII. 292; - of the Church of the Resurrection, Note VI. 301. - - Tyropoeon, the, identified with the central valley, 19. - - - U. - - "Upper Pool;" see Mamillah. - - Uzza, garden of, its supposed site, 184. - - - V. - - Valley Gate, its supposed site, 26, 27, 69. - - Valleys round Jerusalem, 4; - within the city, 16, 19, 20, 62. - - Vault, immense one discovered beneath the Convent of the Daughters of - Sion, 61; - the supposed site of Strato's Tower, 62; - its purpose and architectural history, 77; - converted into stables for the Templars, 78. - - Vaults under the site of Antonia Tower, 64; under El-Aksa, 81; - the mosque Abu Bekr, 84; - the tomb of David, the sepulchre of the Jewish Kings, 215. - - Veronica, S. house of, in the Via Dolorosa, 143. - - Via Dolorosa, 8, 9; - account of its fourteen stations, 135; - summary of the evidence of its identity, 144. - - Virgin, Fountain of the, see Fountain. - - Virgin, Tomb of, see Mary S. - - Virgin's swoon, the, chapel of, in Via Dolorosa, 141. - - Viri Galilaei, the north summit of Mount Olivet, 192. - - - W. - - Walls of Jerusalem, now surrounding it, 6; - remains of that built by the Jebusites, 22; - by David, 23; - by Solomon, 24; - by Jotham and Hezekiah, 25; - by Manasseh, 26; - under Nehemiah, 27; - the Herods and Titus, 28; - the Agrippas, 35, 37; - the course of the first wall explored, 28; - of the second, 31; - of the third, 34; - the wall of Titus, 40; - of Solyman the Magnificent, 44; - their different architectural characteristics, Note V. 285; - the largest stones remaining in that of Solomon, Note XXVIII. 294. - - Wandering Jew, the imaginary house of, in the Via Dolorosa, 143. - - Water Gate, its supposed site, 27. - - Water supply of Jerusalem, 14; - a good supply required for the Temple services, 49. - - Waters of the neighbourhood of Jerusalem, 245; - inside the city, 257. - - Wezn, or invisible balance, Mohammedan legend of, Note XLI. 296. - - Willibrand of Oldenburg, his account of Christ's Tomb, 117. - - Window of Judgment, its position and legend, 76. - - - X. - - Xystus, the, its supposed site, 30. - - - Z. - - Zacharias, Tomb of, 183. - - Zerubbabel rebuilds the Temple, 51. - - - - Cambridge: - PRINTED BY C. J. CLAY, M.A. - AT THE UNIVERSITY PRESS. - - - - - * * * * * - - - - -Transcriber's note: - -Obvious typesetting errors have been corrected. Questionable or archaic -spelling has been left as printed in the original publication. -Variations in spelling have been left as printed, unless otherwise noted -in the following. - -Corrections to printing errors supplied in the "CORRIGENDA ET ADDENDA", -immediately following the Table of Contents, have been applied in this -transcription. - -Inconsistencies in abbreviations frequently used have been regularized. -The formation of references to works frequently cited have -been regularized. E.g., for all instances like "Jewish War, V. 4, Sec. -1." commas have been inserted, if missing, after War and before the -"Sec." symbol. - -All instances of "Sherif" have been normalized to "Sherif". - -Alternate spellings of Phasaelus/Phasaelus/Phasaelus Tower have been -regularized to Phasaelus. - -Alternate spellings of Neby Samwil/Samwil have been regularized to -Samwil. - -Alternate spellings of Arimathaea/Arimathea have been regularized to -Arimathea. - -Varying formats of the abbreviation "A.D." have been regularized in this -transcription to appear in upper case letters. - -Page 26: Transcribed "fellahin" as "fellahin". As originally printed: -"The answers given to me by the _fellahin_...." - -Page 38: Transcribed "them" as "they". As originally printed: "with the -old level of the north gate, and found them correspond". - -Page 48: Supplied the word "in" (shown in brackets here) to the -following phrase: "those found [in] 1 Kings vi. 7 and 2 Chron. iii. -and iv. are very incomplete, and often hard to reconcile". - -Page 49: Supplied the word "in" (shown in brackets here) to the -following phrase: "The inner is mentioned [in] 1 Kings vi. 36". - -Page 58: Supplied a quotation mark missing in the original publication, -as follows, immediately preceding "but": 'He says (speaking of the -mosque) "but on that celebrated spot...'. - -Page 58: Supplied a quotation mark missing in the original publication -at the close of the following: "May God render illustrious the great -king, son of Meruan, who enlarged this majestic temple, and grant him -mercy." - -Page 128: Transcribed "Harun er-Rashid" as "Harun er-Rashid". As -originally printed: "The amicable relations between Harun er-Rashid...." - -Page 138: Two footnote markers on this page in the original publication, -both numbered 1, reference one footnote. The markers have been numbered -470 and 471 and footnote 471 has been added as "Ibid." - -Page 140 (footnote 477): Corrected "Jerus" to "Jesus." - -Page 210: Footnote 4 on this page references non-existant Note "XXII." -Number was corrected to "Note XIV." - -Page 212: Supplied the word "it" (shown in brackets here) to the -following phrase: "some however less anxiously cautious, say that [it] -is on the site...". - -Page 229: Footnote 7 on this page was marked in the text, but the note -at the bottom of the page, referring internally to "Page 14", had no -note number associated with it. The footnote has been numbered and -appears in this transcription as footnote 826. - -Page 270 (footnote 898): Transcribed "pamplet" as "pamphlet". As -originally printed: "the following account published in a pamplet...." - -In the table showing Spanish Reals sent to the Holy Land, the individual -contributions by country in this transcription match the figures in -the original publication; however, the total Reals stated in the -original publication (239,737,060) does not match the sum of the -countries' contributions (239,927,060). - -Page 275: In the table showing pilgrims visits to Jerusalem and lengths -of stays, the annual totals in this transcription match the figures in -the original publication; however, the total of days stated in the -original publication (229,346) does not match the sum of the annual -totals (229,266). - -Pages 283-4: Endnotes marked in the original publication with numerical -references (1 to 7) have been transcribed as notes A to G and appear as -endnotes to Note II of Chapter II. - -Page 295: A reference to the Itinerary of Antoninus of Piacenza printed -as "Anton. Placent. Itin. Sect. 23" in the original publication has been -left as printed, a likely typesetting error in which an L was -substituted for the I in Piacen(t)za. - -Pages 304: Endnotes to Note XIV of Chapter IV., marked in the original -publication as (a) and (b), have been transcribed as footnotes that appear -at the end of the notes for Chapter IV. - -Page 311: Transcribed "Adonizedec" (king of Jerusalem) as "Adonizedek". -As originally printed: "1451 Adonizedec king of Jerusalem". - -Page 314: Alternate spellings of Al-Mostander-Billah/Al-Mostanser-Billah -have been regularized to Al-Mostanser-Billah. - -Page 331: Possibly incomplete phrase in sidenote has been left as -printed in the original publication: "The Jews see the review of the -troops Titus." - - - -***END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK JERUSALEM EXPLORED, VOLUME I--TEXT*** - - -******* This file should be named 41569.txt or 41569.zip ******* - - -This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: -http://www.gutenberg.org/dirs/4/1/5/6/41569 - - - -Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions -will be renamed. - -Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no -one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation -(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without -permission and without paying copyright royalties. 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