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diff --git a/41569-0.txt b/41569-0.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..3019d09 --- /dev/null +++ b/41569-0.txt @@ -0,0 +1,21371 @@ +*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 41569 *** + +Note: Images of the original pages are available through + the Jewish National and University Library Digitized + Book Repository. See + http://aleph.nli.org.il/nnl/dig/books/bk001202937.html + + +Transcriber's note: + + Greek words and phrases in the Greek alphabet have been + transliterated and are surrounded by plus signs (+) in + this transcription (example: +spêlaiôn+). + + Footnotes in the original publication were numbered at the + page level. E.g., if a page had three footnotes, they were + numbered 1, 2 & 3, and footnote numbering began with 1 on + each page on which notes appeared. For this transcription, + all 903 footnotes have been renumbered sequentially, from 1 + to 903, and footnotes for a given chapter have been placed + at the end of the chapter. + + + + + +JERUSALEM EXPLORED + +Being a Description of the Ancient and Modern City. + + +[Illustration: University Press Logo] + + +Cambridge: +Printed by C. J. Clay, M.A. +At the University Press. + + +JERUSALEM EXPLORED + +Being a Description of the Ancient and Modern City, + +With Numerous Illustrations +Consisting of Views, Ground Plans, and Sections, + +by + +ERMETE PIEROTTI, + +Doctor of Mathematics, and Architect-Engineer, Civil and Military, to +His Excellency Surraya Pasha of Jerusalem. + +Translated by Thomas George Bonney, M.A., F.G.S. + +Fellow of St John's College, Cambridge. + +VOLUME I.--TEXT. + + + + + + + +[Illustration: Printer's Logo] + +London: Bell and Daldy, Fleet Street. +Cambridge: Deighton, Bell, and Co. +M.DCCC.LXIV. + +[The right of Translation is reserved.] + + + + +TO HIS IMPERIAL MAJESTY + +NAPOLEON III. + +Emperor of the French, + +PROTECTOR OF THE HOLY PLACES, + + + +THIS CONTRIBUTION + +TO ARCHÆOLOGICAL SCIENCE, + +IN WHICH HE IS HIMSELF A PROFICIENT, + +IS BY HIS MAJESTY'S AUGUST PERMISSION INSCRIBED, + +BY HIS OBEDIENT SERVANT, + + + +ERMETE PIEROTTI. + + + + +_PALAIS DES TUILERIES, LE 26 NOV. 1861._ + +_CABINET DE L'EMPEREUR._ + + +_MONSIEUR,_ + +_L'EMPEREUR ME CHARGE D'AVOIR L'HONNEUR DE VOUS INFORMER QUE, SELON VOS +DÉSIRS, SA MAJESTÉ VEUT BIEN ACCEPTER LA DÉDICACE DE VOTRE OUVRAGE SUR +LES MONUMENTS ET LES LOCALITÉS DE LA PALESTINE[1]._ + +_AGRÉEZ, MONSIEUR, L'ASSURANCE DE MA CONSIDÉRATION DISTINGUÉE._ + +_POUR LE SECRÉTAIRE DE L'EMPEREUR, CHEF DU CABINET ET PAR AUTORISATION._ + +_LE Ss. CHEF._ + +_JACALEY._ + + + +_LE DR. E. PIEROTTI._ + +_11 RUE DES DEUX BOULES, PARIS._ + + +[1] Of which Work this is intended as the first part. + + + + +PREFACE. + + +On the subject of Jerusalem many books in various languages have already +been published; but I venture to think that there is still room for +another, as most of them are open to objections of different kinds. Some +authors have erred in being carried away by their subject, and +disappoint the reader by substituting their own reflexions for the +information that he desires to acquire. Some, with the eye of fancy, +seem to behold the shades of Kings, of Prophets, and of Heroes, +wandering among their tombs, or haunting the ruins of Sion; others, +after a short stay in Jerusalem, return to their own homes and publish +books, composed of fragments of classic lore, and the traditions they +have gathered from the guides who have accompanied them in the visits to +the Holy Places; some indeed going so far as to denounce as heretics and +infidels all who do not lend a ready belief to these tales. Lastly, +there are some who, without visiting Jerusalem, and consequently without +a minute knowledge of its topography, rely upon the information they +have gathered from the accounts of others, to reconstruct the ancient +walls, the Temple, and other buildings, and endeavour to overthrow the +conclusions which have been formed after a prolonged residence in the +country and much careful observation. + +In the works of all these authors there is much that is interesting, but +the description of what is really to be seen is always more or less +defective. I have accordingly endeavoured to supply this want during my +residence in the Holy City, and now present to my readers the fruits of +eight years of continual labour, devoted to a study of the topography of +Jerusalem upon the spot, in which I have been constantly occupied in +excavating and removing the rubbish accumulated over the place during so +many centuries, in retracing the walls, in examining the monuments and +ancient remains, and in penetrating and traversing the conduits and +vaults; so that I trust I am in a position to throw some fresh light +upon the subject of Jewish Archæology. In arranging the plan of my work, +I have rested chiefly upon the Bible, the traditions of the Rabbis, and +the works of Josephus, and have made but little use of any other +authorities upon the ancient topography of the city; but, to compensate +for this, I have made excavations and watched those made by others, have +formed intimacies with the inhabitants of the country, have sought for +information on the spot, regardless of personal risk, have worked with +my own hands under the ground, and so have obtained much knowledge of +that which lies below the surface of the soil in Jerusalem; and have +pursued my purpose, at one time with bribes, at another with force, and +always with patience, perseverance, and courage. + +But my efforts would have been of little avail had it not been for the +constant protection and assistance of His Excellency Surraya Pasha, of +M. de Barrère, the French Consul, and his Chancellor, M. Aimé Dequié, +who lost no opportunity of publicly testifying their esteem and regard +for me. I must not forget to express my gratitude to the Ecclesiastical +authorities, who have also shewn me great kindness. + +That I have been able to publish my book in England is due to the Rev. +George Williams, Fellow of King's College, Cambridge, who, when he had +heard of my discoveries in the Holy City,--a place so dear and so full +of interest to him,--invited me to this University, gave me a truly +English welcome, and aided me to the utmost of his power in +accomplishing my desire. + +For the translation of my Italian manuscript into English, I am indebted +to the Rev. T. G. Bonney, Fellow of St John's College, whom I have also +to thank for several useful suggestions and corrections. I must also +express my obligations to Mr R. W. Taylor, Fellow of the same College, +who, in order to expedite the publication of the book, kindly undertook +to assist his friend by translating the Notes. + +The proof-sheets have been corrected by Mr Bonney, and revised by Mr +Williams, and by the Rev. John E. B. Mayor, Fellow of S. John's College, +who has not only been at the pains to collate them with my manuscript, +but has also aided me with his great learning and experience. I cannot +find terms adequate to express my gratitude to these three gentlemen for +their constant kindness and friendly care. Nor can I refrain from +thanking my numerous friends in this University, who have contributed to +render my sojourn among them at once pleasant and profitable; with whom +I have spent many happy hours, the memory of which will not leave me +during the rest of my life. + +And now I present my book to the reader, apologizing for its many +deficiencies, and trusting that he will be an indulgent critic. It does +not profess to be more than a simple and strict record of facts, and +therefore I must ask him to pardon me if it be sometimes rather dull and +dry. I have purposely avoided, as much as possible, all that would +interfere with the main end of the work, such as personal reminiscences +and unimportant details; wishing rather to put forward facts than +theories, to rely upon sight rather than imagination. Most thankfully +shall I receive friendly correction and criticism, or suggestions and +advice for my conduct in the new investigations which I hope to make in +Palestine. As regards those which I have described in the following +pages, I can honestly say that I have spared no pains to make them as +complete as possible; and though they have cost me much time and money, +much anxiety and fatigue, still, if I succeed in throwing any additional +light upon Jewish antiquities, or in exciting a more general interest +upon such an important subject, I shall feel that I have not laboured in +vain. + +ERMETE PIEROTTI. + +CAMBRIDGE, _December 15th, 1863_. + + + + +CONTENTS. + + + CHAPTER I. PAGE + + ORIGIN OF THE NAME JERUSALEM--HISTORY--TOPOGRAPHY AND GENERAL + ASPECT--CLIMATE--POPULATION--WATERS 1 + + + CHAPTER II. + + ANCIENT TOPOGRAPHY OF JERUSALEM--IDENTIFICATION OF THE + MOUNTAINS, HILLS AND VALLEYS--JERUSALEM IN THE TIME OF THE + JEBUSITES, DAVID, SOLOMON, JOTHAM, HEZEKIAH, MANASSEH, + NEHEMIAH, HEROD--THE TESTIMONY OF JOSEPHUS EXAMINED--THE + SIEGE BY TITUS--FORMER EXTENT OF THE CITY--JERUSALEM IN THE + TIME OF HADRIAN, THE CRUSADERS AND SOLYMAN 16 + + + CHAPTER III. + + MOUNT MORIAH AND ITS ENVIRONS--HISTORY IN THE TIME OF + ABRAHAM, JACOB, DAVID, SOLOMON, ZERUBBABEL, ALEXANDER THE + GREAT, ANTIOCHUS EPIPHANES, THE MACCABEES, POMPEIUS, CRASSUS, + THE HERODS, TITUS, HADRIAN, CONSTANTINE, JULIAN THE APOSTATE, + OMAR, ABD-EL-MALEK, VALID OR ELULID, THE CRUSADERS, SALADIN, + SELIM I., SOLYMAN I.--GENERAL EXAMINATION OF MORIAH, WITH + DETAILS OF THE INVESTIGATIONS 45 + + + CHAPTER IV. + + THE CHURCH OF THE RESURRECTION, AND THE HOSPITAL OF S. JOHN, + WITH THEIR ENVIRONS--HISTORY OF THE HOLY SEPULCHRE FROM THE + DEATH OF CHRIST TO THE PRESENT TIME--GENUINENESS OF THE + SEPULCHRE--GOLGOTHA--EXAMINATION OF THE EXTERIOR AND INTERIOR + OF THE CHURCH--RUINS OF THE HOSPITAL 102 + + + CHAPTER V. + + INVESTIGATIONS IN THE VIA DOLOROSA (OR THE WAY OF THE CROSS). + THE RELIGIOUS AND OTHER REMARKABLE BUILDINGS IN IT OR IN ITS + NEIGHBOURHOOD AND IN THE REST OF THE CITY, TOGETHER WITH ALL + THE CONVENTS OF THE DIFFERENT RELIGIOUS COMMUNITIES 135 + + + CHAPTER VI. + + EXCURSIONS IN THE NEIGHBOURHOOD OF THE CITY ON THE EAST, + SOUTH, AND SOUTH-WEST--THE VALLEY OF KIDRON, CALLED ALSO THE + VALLEY OF JEHOSHAPHAT, WITH ITS MONUMENTS AND REMARKABLE + PLACES--THE MOUNT OF OLIVES--BETHPHAGE--BETHANY--THE VALLEY + OF HINNOM--THE MOUNT OF EVIL COUNSEL--SOUTH-WESTERN PART OF + THE VALLEY OF GIHON--MOUNT SION--CHRISTIAN CEMETERIES--TOMB + OF DAVID, AND SUBTERRANEAN VAULTS--THE COENACULUM--THE HOUSE + OF CAIAPHAS--THE GROTTO OF S. PETER--THE LEPERS 167 + + + CHAPTER VII. + + EXCURSIONS IN THE NEIGHBOURHOOD OF THE CITY ON THE NORTH AND + WEST--THE MONUMENT OF HELENA OF ADIABENE, AND THE CHURCH + DEDICATED TO S. STEPHEN--ROYAL CAVERNS--GROTTO OF + JEREMIAH--HOUSE OF THE VINE--TOMBS OF THE KINGS--SHEIKH + JERRAH--ANCIENT SYNAGOGUE--TOMB OF SIMON THE JUST--TOMBS AT + THE HEAD OF THE KIDRON VALLEY--KIDRON POOL--VARIOUS TOMBS ON + THE NORTH-WEST--TOMBS OF THE JUDGES--SHEIKH AYMAR--RUSSIAN + BUILDINGS--VALLEY OF GIHON--BIRKET MAMILLAH--MONUMENT OF + HEROD, AND RUINS OF THE CHURCH OF S. BABYLAS--GREEK CONVENT + OF THE HOLY CROSS--PROPERTY OF THE ARCHIMANDRITE NICOFORUS 223 + + + CHAPTER VIII. + + ON THE WATERS, FIT OR UNFIT FOR DRINKING, IN JERUSALEM AND + ITS NEIGHBOURHOOD 245 + + + CHAPTER IX. + + GENERAL REMARKS UPON THE PRESENT STATE OF THE CITY OF + JERUSALEM 262 + + * * * * * + + NOTES 281 + + + CHRONOLOGICAL SUMMARY 311 + + + PRINCIPAL PASSAGES FROM THE HOLY BIBLE 315 + + + PASSAGES FROM JOSEPHUS'S ANTIQUITIES OF THE JEWS 323 + + + PASSAGES FROM JOSEPHUS'S HISTORY OF THE JEWISH WAR 327 + + + INDEX 333 + + + + +CORRIGENDA ET ADDENDA. + + + Page 7, line 30, _for_ Hulda _read_ Huldah + Page 10, line 33, _for_ and in 1859 _read_ and in 1861 + Page 14, line 2, and page 15, lines 6 and 13, _for_ Sherif _read_ + Sherîf + Page 37, line 8, _for_ Barrére _read_ Barrère + Page 43, line 28, _for_ Willebrand _read_ Willibrand + Page 106, line 5, and page 117, line 14, _for_ Abbot _read_ Abbé + Page 145, line 23, _for_ then _read_ be thou + Page 155, head line, _for_ Greek Synagogue _read_ Great Synagogue + Page 207, line 18, _for_ 260 _read_ 270 + Page 210, last line, _for_ Note XXII. _read_ Note XVI. + +Chapter 1. The numbers of the different nations and sects that inhabit +Jerusalem were taken by the Author, in the service of Surraya Pasha, in +the year 1861. + +Vols. I. and II. of the Gesta Dei per Francos, referred to in the body +of the work, form 'Tomus Primus Orientalis Historiæ.' The pages are +numbered continuously, and, according to Dr Robinson, the book usually +forms only one volume. This, however, was not observed by the translator +in verifying the references until the earlier sheets were struck off. +Sanutus' Liber Secretorum fidelium Crucis forms 'Tomus Secundus +Orientalis Historiæ.' An account of most of the earlier books referred +to in this work will be found in Dr Robinson's Biblical Researches, Vol. +III. First Appendix, pp. 3-27 (1st Edition). La Citez de Jherusalem, +contained in M. de Vogüé's work, Les Églises de la Terre Sainte, is also +printed in the Rev. G. Williams' Holy City, Vol. 1. Appendix II. pp. +134--142 (2nd Edition). + + + + +JERUSALEM EXPLORED. + + + + +CHAPTER I. + + ORIGIN OF THE NAME JERUSALEM--HISTORY--TOPOGRAPHY AND GENERAL + ASPECT--CLIMATE--POPULATION--WATERS. + + +Most authors agree in identifying the Salem of Melchizedek[2] with +Jerusalem. S. Jerome[3] however asserts that the residence of the King +of Righteousness was in the east of Judea, three leagues to the south of +the city of Scythopolis, and not far from the Jordan, supporting his +opinion by the fact that in his time a town still existed there called +Salim (_Salumias_), not far from which was Ænon[4], where S. John +Baptist baptized. The Arabs of the Jordan guided me to Salumias and to a +neighbouring valley, which I identify with "the valley of Shaveh[5] +(_the plain_), which is the king's dale." We are told that Abraham met +Melchizedek and the king of Sodom on his return from the successful +attack on the invaders, and it seems incredible that he should have gone +by Jerusalem to Hebron, thus uselessly prolonging his journey by passing +through a strange country. Nor would it be said that the king of Sodom +went out "_to meet him in the valley of the plain_," but rather "_to +seek him in the king's dale in the mountains_," nor would Melchizedek +have been received by Abraham, but they would have met in Salem[6]. For +these reasons I believe Salem and Jerusalem to be two distinct places. +There is, however, no doubt that Jerusalem was the city of the +Jebusites, a nation descended and named from Jebus, son of Canaan. + +It is difficult to fix the period when it acquired the name of Jerusalem +(_Yerush-shalom_, Inheritance of Peace,) for the use of the word in +Joshua x. 1, xii. 10, Judges i. 21, does not prove that it was older +than the period of the conquest. The Emperor Hadrian called it _Ælia +Capitolina_. The City is named _El Kuds_, or _Beit el Makdus_ (the Holy +House), by the Arabic writers of the middle ages. It is possible that it +may have borne this name at a much earlier period, as Cadytis[7], a +great city of Syria, taken by Necho, king of Egypt, may be Jerusalem; +Cadytis being only a corruption of the Aramaic _Kadishtha_ (the Holy). +Some suppose that _Jerusalem_ has been formed by the union of _Jebus_ +and _Salem_, the _b_ being changed into _r_, but the Hebrew form of the +word does not admit of this transformation. The derivation given by +Lysimachus[8] is amusing from its absurdity. He asserts that in the time +of Bocchoris, king of Egypt, the Jews were expelled from that country by +the order of the Sun-god, who was disgusted at the diseased and leprous +condition of the race, and visited the land with a famine; that being +led by Moses, they travelled over the desert; and "the difficulties of +the journey being over, they came to a country inhabited; and there they +abused the men, and plundered and burnt their temples; and then came +into that land which is called Judea, and there they built a city and +dwelt therein; and that their city was named _Hierosyla_, from this +robbing of the temples; but that still, upon the success they had +afterwards, they in time changed its denomination, that it might not be +a reproach to them, and called the city _Hierosolyma_, and themselves +_Hierosolymites_." + +Adonizedek was king of Jerusalem at the time of the conquest under +Joshua[9]. He fell in battle against the Jews, near Gibeon, and some +time after the lower town was taken by them. The Jebusites[10], however, +still remained in it, among the descendants of Judah and Benjamin, and +were not driven from the upper town till the eighth year of David's +reign, when their stronghold was taken by storm[11], and the place +became the capital of his kingdom. Jerusalem attained to its highest +pitch of grandeur under the government of Solomon, being the centre of +commerce, civilization, and religion. After the division of the Tribes, +it continued to be the capital of the kingdom of Judah. In the fifth +year of Rehoboam it was taken and sacked by Shishak[12], king of Egypt. +In the reign of Jehoram[13] bands of Philistines and Arabs entered the +city, plundered the king's palace, and carried his wives and sons into +captivity. In the reign of Amaziah[14] it was sacked by Joash king of +Israel. It was unsuccessfully threatened by the Assyrians in the days of +Hezekiah[15]. Manasseh[16] fortified the western side of the city and +Ophel, but it was laid waste by the Chaldeans under Nebuchadnezzar[17]. + +After a captivity of half a century, the Jews were permitted by Cyrus to +rebuild it, but, owing to the opposition of their enemies, the work was +not completed till the time of Nehemiah. Jerusalem was involved in the +troubles caused by the fall of the Persian Empire. The city opened its +gates to Alexander, who not only treated it with humanity, but also +conferred upon it several privileges. After his death it was taken by +Ptolemy, son of Lagus, king of Egypt. Under the Ptolemies, and for a +while under the Seleucidæ, it on the whole enjoyed peace and honour, +until the barbarity of the tyrant Antiochus Epiphanes renewed the +sorrows of the unhappy city. The heroic sons of the house of Mattathias +delivered their country from this yoke, and it remained under the +princes of the Asmonean family until Palestine was conquered by the +Romans. Pompeius the Great, who entered Jerusalem as a conqueror 63 +B.C., respected the lives and property of the inhabitants. The temple +was protected by him, only to be plundered by Crassus. The liberality of +Herod the Great added much to the splendour of Jerusalem; but after his +death the spirit of sedition spread more and more every day among the +Jews, producing frequent revolts against the Romans, which were +terminated by the destruction of the city by Titus, A.D. 71. Thus were +the predictions of the prophets fulfilled. + +After lying in ruins for sixty years it was rebuilt by the Emperor +Hadrian upon a part of its former site, and called Ælia Capitolina[18]; +but the Jews were forbidden to enter it under pain of death. When +Christianity triumphed in the reign of Constantine, the heathen temples +were replaced by churches in honour of every memorial of the Saviour's +life and death. + +Chosroes II., king of the Persians, took the city by assault, A.D. 614; +it was regained by the Emperor Heraclius A.D. 629, and again taken by +the Khalif Omar A.D. 636. After this it was successively under the +dominion of the Persian Khalifs, of the Fatimites of Egypt, and of the +Seljukians, in whose time the Crusades were commenced, owing to the +preaching of Peter the Hermit. The Christian army, led by Godfrey of +Bouillon, entered the Holy City A.D. 1099. The Latin kingdom was brought +to an end by the victories of Saladin A.D. 1187. Sultan Malek el-Kamel +ceded the city to Frederick II. of Germany, but it was recovered by the +Mohammedans under Jenghiz Khan, A.D. 1244. It then remained subject to +the different dynasties of the Sultans of Egypt and Syria, until it was +conquered by the Turks under Selim I. A.D. 1517. Ibrahim Pasha of Egypt +took possession of it A.D. 1832, but the Great Powers restored it to the +Porte A.D. 1840[19]. The spirit of the present Turkish government, +influenced as it is by the nations of Europe, induces us to think that a +happier and more peaceful future is in store for Jerusalem, and that +under their protection the furious contests, so common among the rival +sects of Christians, who struggle for the possession of the Holy +Places, will be appeased. By these quarrels only will the soil of +Jerusalem be stained with blood, not by the fanaticism of the +Mohammedan; he is, and will be, restrained by the power of the local +authorities, the energy of the Consuls, and the bribes paid by the +Convents to pacify the more restless spirits. We may also hope that +European civilization will speedily penetrate into Palestine, and that +Jerusalem will become an inviolable asylum, open to every devout man; +for all, without distinction of creed, are entitled to mourn, to hope, +and to pray, on the spot consecrated by the sacrifice of our Divine +Master. + +The city of Jerusalem[20] is situated about 31° 47' north latitude and +33° east longitude (Paris) in the highest part of the mountains of +Judea, and upon the ancient boundaries of the tribes of Judah and +Benjamin (Joshua xviii. 6). It is surrounded on every side by rising +ground, and therefore cannot be seen by the traveller until he +approaches near it. The most distant view of it is obtained from the +village of _Neby Samwîl_[21] (Prophet Samuel), three hours (about twelve +miles) distant on the north-west; and it was from this height that the +first Crusaders, under Godfrey of Bouillon, saluted Jerusalem with +shouts of exultation. + +On the north the city is overshadowed by the mountain of _Shafat_ (fair +prospect), the ancient Scopus. It was from this position that Titus made +his first general survey of the city, which at that time he had no +intention of destroying[22]. On the east rises Mount Olivet; on the +south, an eminence known as the Hill of Evil Counsel, and also as the +Mount of the Sepulchres, from the great number of tombs existing there. +To the west are the summits of Mount Gihon. Valleys separate all these +mountains from the city and the high table-land to the north, entirely +surrounding it except on the north-west and a small portion of the north +side, where the ground is so nearly level as to admit of an easy +approach. + +On the north commences the valley of Kidron, at first not deep but +sinking as it approaches the east, and continuing to do so along the +whole of that side, until it reaches the lower extremity of the gardens +of Siloam. Here it unites with the valley of Hinnom, which runs parallel +to the south of the city. On the west is the valley of Gihon, which is +very deep at the point where it takes the name of Hinnom, on the +south-west. From this conformation of the ground, it is obvious that, in +times when only the weapons and military engines of ancient warfare were +employed, the city was an important stronghold, well defended by nature, +except on the north-west and a small portion of the north side, where +the almost level ground exposed it to an attack. From the most remote +periods of antiquity until the time of the Crusades and Saladin, +Jerusalem was invariably assaulted at these points by those who made +themselves masters of the city. + +A few olive-trees, a bare argillaceous soil scattered over with stones +and flints, some ruins of ancient sepulchres, four water-tanks, some +cisterns almost entirely dilapidated, and bare rocks, some of which +exhibit traces of chiselling, are the only objects that meet the eye +throughout the whole region of the north and north-west. + +On the east, along the course of the valley of Kidron, nothing is seen +but rocks and accumulations of earth and rubbish: these continue +likewise along the south, but the desolate effect is somewhat concealed +by the growth of vegetation, and by the gardens of the peasants of +Siloam. The ruins still existing, and the nature of the soil, which is +mostly grey in colour and full of lime, shew that the ground on this +side was once occupied by houses. Finally, on the west are seen the +reservoir of Mamillah, accumulations of earth and rubbish, argillaceous +soil, bare rocks, and a few recent plantations,--the work of the +improver of cultivation in Palestine, the Greek Archimandrite, +Nicoferus. + +As may be inferred from this description, the environs of Jerusalem +present an appearance of wretchedness and desolation, that cannot fail +to strike the eye of the traveller: and the feeling of melancholy is +further increased by the thought that the Holy City itself is surrounded +by tombs which are daily being opened, and that the inhabitants have +only cemeteries for their public promenades. The memories of the past +alone are able to attract the traveller and the pilgrim to +Jerusalem,--not its present condition; for the miserable spectacle +presented by the monuments still existing above ground would certainly +not repay the trouble and fatigue of so long a journey. But those +memories, together with the subterranean remains, afford ample +recompense to any one possessing imagination and religious feeling, who +wishes to study the Bible in its own peculiar country, where its use +will inevitably lead him to the truth. + +During the past few years several buildings have been erected in the +neighbourhood of Jerusalem, more especially on the north-west. Of these, +the most remarkable, both for their extent and for their site, which +commands the city on every side, are those belonging to Russia. This +great nation, though the last to establish a mission here, has been the +first to choose a fine situation and erect suitable buildings upon it. +The occupants have also the advantage of escaping from the bad smells of +the city. I was the first to offer this site to Cyril, Bishop of +Melitopolis, and head of the Mission, but it was declined. I renewed the +offer to His Excellency M. de Mansouroff, who at first refused it, but +afterwards gave orders that the purchase should be made. + +We will now proceed to a survey of the city itself. The whole _terrain_ +slopes sensibly in an easterly direction; its highest point is at the +north-western angle of the walls; but between this position and the +highest part of Sion to the south the difference of level is not so +great as to forbid us to conjecture that it was originally one hill. The +accumulations of soil have so much altered the surface of the ground +that it is impossible to recognize ancient localities in the modern city +without making excavations: this I have done to an extent that enables +me to speak confidently on the point. Believing that in an undertaking +of this kind it is useless to form an opinion without an accurate +investigation of the soil and a careful study of the subject, I could +not be content to remain merely a few days in the country. + +Modern Jerusalem does not occupy the whole of the space covered by the +ancient city in the days of Herod; the greater part of Mount Sion (to +the south) being excluded, as it has been since the time when Hadrian +rebuilt the city under the name of _Ælia Capitolina_. The agreement +between the descriptions of the town, given by William of Tyre, James of +Vitri, Brocardus and many others in the middle ages, and those of modern +writers, shews that its limits have not since undergone any changes. The +wall, which now surrounds the city, was built from the foundations at +that time, and only restored in some parts by order of Sultan Solyman +the Magnificent, son of Selim I. in 1534, as declared by the +inscriptions over the gates[23]. This wall is not of uniform height, but +varies from thirty-six to forty-two feet. Its thickness also varies in +different parts, from four to five and five and a half feet. The whole +wall is crowned by battlements, and makes a great number of angles; of +these there are more on the south than on the north; while on the east +it forms nearly a straight line, and on the west, two segments, meeting +in a very obtuse angle at the Jaffa gate. Here rise some towers[24], and +the old fortress, called the Castle of David[25]. This constitutes the +feeble nucleus of the fortification of the city, and is of no importance +whatever in the present state of military science. The form of the city +is an irregular trapezium, the longest side of which is the north, the +next the south; the east is shorter than either of the former, the west +the shortest of all. + +The walls contain eleven gateways[26], five of which are closed up. + +1st. On the north, the gate of Damascus, called by the Arabs +_Bâb-el-'Amud_, or The Gate of the Column[27]. Through this is the road +to the ancient land of Ephraim, and so to Nablûs and Damascus. It is +also the gate of honour by which all the Mohammedan authorities who +arrive as governors or as visitors to the Holy City make their first +entry. This gate is better built than any of the others, and presents a +fine appearance; its Saracenic architecture is magnificent; the few +arabesques and ornaments are of excellent workmanship. Inside, on the +right-hand wall on entering, is a Cufic inscription. + +2nd. Proceeding eastwards, about 780 feet from the gate just described, +is the gate, commonly called that of Herod, which has been walled up for +some few years, to save the expense of a guard. The Arabs call it +_Bâb-ez-Zaheri_, which some translate as Gate of Gardens. Close to this +gate is a small reservoir, called the Pilgrim's Pool, in memory of a +maiden who made a vow to walk to Jerusalem barefoot and fasting, and +died of exhaustion on reaching this spot. + +3rd. Continuing along the eastern side and turning to the south, after +passing by a ditch excavated in the rock, we come to a pool and to the +Gate of Saint Mary, _Bâb-Sitti-Mariam_ of the Arabs, called by many S. +Stephen's Gate. Over the gateway are four lions in _bas relief_, said +traditionally to have been placed there by the Khalif Omar[28]. The pool +is called _Birket-Hammam-Sitti-Mariam_, or the Pool of the Bath of our +Lady Mary. This gate leads to the valley of Kidron, commonly called the +valley of Jehoshaphat, to Bethany, and to Jericho. + +4th. At a short distance, towards the south, is the Golden Gate[29], +which would open upon the area of the _Haram-es-Sherîf_. This is the +most richly ornamented of all, and is remarkable for its architecture, +of which I shall presently speak at greater length. It has long been +closed up, doubtless on account of a legend, to which much importance is +attached by the natives, which states that through this gate a sovereign +from the west will enter, on a Friday, and make himself master of the +city. In consequence, many resort to the gate every Friday to offer +their mid-day prayer and to entreat God to deliver them from foreign +invasions. + +5th. Within a short distance is a very small gate, also built up, which +M. de Saulcy was the first to recognize, (in my opinion wrongly,) as the +gate of Jehoshaphat of the period of the Crusades. + +6th. Passing the south-east corner of the wall, and proceeding westward, +we observe a gate with a pointed arch, also walled up. + +7th. Continuing in the same direction we find a triple gate, also closed +with masonry. + +8th. The southern gate, called by the Mohammedans _Bâb-el-Huldah_, Gate +of Huldah[30]. This gate, now disused, is under the Mosque _el-Aksa_. Of +its ornamentation I shall speak more fully in another place. + +9th. Still keeping along the southern wall in a westerly direction we +find the small Dung Gate, called by the Arabs _Bâb-el-Mogharibeh_, Gate +of the western Africans. It is not kept open throughout the year; but +when there is a scarcity of water in the city, it is used by the +water-carriers. + +10th. Ascending towards Sion, we reach the Sion Gate, _Bâb-Neby-Daûd_, +(The Gate of the prophet David,) so called because it leads to the +Sepulchre of David, which is at a short distance. Through it too is the +way to the Christian and Jewish cemeteries. + +11th. Lastly, on the west is the Jaffa Gate[31], or in Arabic, +_Bâb-el-Khalíl_, (Gate of Hebron,) because through this gate is the best +and shortest road to Hebron. + +The appearance of Jerusalem within the walls is sombre and sad, offering +no attraction to the eye, and filling the mind with deep melancholy. +With the exception of the esplanade of the _Haram-es-Sherîf_, the city +presents but a mass of buildings without order or design, very few of +which deserve special attention. The cupolas of the Church of the +Resurrection, that of the new Jewish Synagogue, and some minarets, are +the only edifices which tower above the others, and the forms even of +these are not pleasing. The panorama of Jerusalem, as seen from +Olivet[32], is striking from the feelings it awakens and the +reminiscences it calls up; but it conveys no idea of life. It is in +truth the panorama of a Deicide city. The streets and lanes entangled in +the labyrinth of houses are irregular, narrow, dirty, and ill-paved; +through many of them flow open sewers, receiving the drainage from the +houses, and filth of all kinds abounds. There was a period when it was +even thought desirable to leave the gates of the city open at night, in +order that hyenas and jackals might enter and purify the streets by +devouring the carcases of animals that were lying about. + +The vaulted bazaars, which in many cities of the East are so full of +life and activity, at Jerusalem look rather like caves containing +sepulchral cells, and the visitor must be careful where he stands, lest +some portion of the ruinous wall fall upon him, where he sets his foot, +or against whom he brushes in the street. With few exceptions, the +fronts of the houses present nothing but rows of windows with iron-bars, +or heavy wooden _jalousies_, that give them the appearance of +prisons--weeds and hyssop are growing upon many--others are fast falling +to decay--the whole is a sad picture of neglect and indifference. + +There are three great divisions of the city. A central valley, +commencing at the N.W., outside the Damascus gate, and terminating at +the S.E., below the Pool of Siloam, separates it into two parts, of +which that on the west of the valley may be considered as the first +division, being larger than both the others together. These are +separated one from another by a street, now called (for the greater part +of its length) the Via Dolorosa, which begins at the Gate of Saint Mary, +whence it rises westward until it meets the central valley. The hill to +the north of this street forms the second division, and the platform on +the south, occupied by the _Haram-es-Sherîf_ and its precincts, the +third division. + +The first division is traversed from north to south by a street[33] +extending from the Damascus Gate to the Gate of Sion. The part to the +west of this is chiefly inhabited by Christians, and may therefore be +considered as the Christian Quarter; the part to the east, as far as the +central valley, is occupied by people of various creeds. From the Jaffa +Gate as far as the western side of the _Haram_, the city is traversed by +another street, called in the time of the Crusaders the Street of David. +The district, then, east of the street leading to the Gate of Sion, and +S.E. of the Street of David, is the Jewish Quarter; and that north of +the Street of David, together with the western side of the central +valley, the Mohammedan Quarter, although many Christians and Jews also +dwell in it. + +The second division may be considered as partly a Christian and partly a +Mohammedan Quarter, because in the last few years the Christians have +become possessed of much of it, especially along the northern side of +the Via Dolorosa. + +The third division is entirely a Mohammedan Quarter, except that the +Armenian Catholics possess a small plot of ground in the angle formed by +the junction of the Via Dolorosa with the central valley. + +Of all these quarters, the dirtiest, most fetid, and wretched, is that +of the Jews, and this not on account of its topographical position, +which is undoubtedly the best of any, but entirely from the habits of +the people, who pay no attention to cleanliness either in their houses +or dress; they wallow in the mire, so to speak, and carry it on their +persons as though fearing to be robbed of it. They dwell in small +houses, huddled together in great numbers, like moving heaps of filth, +and seem only to use their reason for the purpose of plunging more +deeply into the dirt. I have repeatedly entered their habitations, and +observed that in the courts masses of filth were accumulating year by +year and producing various physical evils, simply because the occupants +would not spend the few _piastres_ necessary for its removal. It is +impossible to persuade them of the unhealthiness of their way of living, +because they would themselves have to pay for any improvements in it; +while, if they fall ill, the hospitals are chargeable with the expense. +Moreover, in two rooms, measuring from twelve to fourteen feet square, +it is by no means rare to find a whole family of six or eight persons. +The mere sight of these things enables one to understand, in some +measure, the statements of Josephus in his "Wars of the Jews," both as +to the number of deaths during the siege by the Romans, and the causes +which produced such mortality. In visiting this quarter, it is +impossible to forget the curse that hangs over the children of Israel, +and the words of Deuteronomy ix. 6: "Understand, therefore, that the +Lord thy God giveth thee not this good land to possess it for thy +righteousness; for thou art a stiffnecked people." Alas! no longer can +any one exclaim at sight of Jerusalem: "Beautiful for situation, the joy +of the whole earth, is mount Sion, on the sides of the north, the city +of the great King[34]." + +The climate of Jerusalem would not be unhealthy, if the streets were +kept cleaner, if the heaps of refuse were deposited further from the +walls, and if the lazy agriculturists would avail themselves of it for +manuring the ground; if the houses were kept in a more cleanly state, +and the drains were better attended to; if the rain-water, by which the +cisterns are fed, passed through filters which were themselves free from +impurity; if the dead, especially among the Mohammedans, were interred +at a greater depth; if all the cemeteries were at a distance from human +habitations, and so situated, that the prevalent winds of the country +would not carry their exhalations over the city; if the carrion and +offal, now often found in the city itself, and always abounding in the +immediate vicinity, were buried; if, in short, there existed a board for +the maintenance of sanitary regulations. His Excellency Surraya Pasha +has made every effort to remedy all these evils, and something has been +done to promote the healthiness of the place since he removed the +slaughter-houses and tannery from the centre of the city. But he has +stood alone in his endeavours. His subordinates, not being animated by +the same spirit, according to their custom, have neglected to see his +commands carried into execution. Hence the result of his measures, +though very perceptible, has not yet been proportionate to just +expectation. + +Although the climate is not subject to the frequent and sudden changes +that occur in western countries, yet it is necessary to guard against +the variation of temperature in the morning and evening, which is very +great, and an ordinary cause of violent attacks of fever, not +unfrequently fatal. Affections of the eyes are common among the lower +classes, who so seldom wash their faces. Those of cleanly habits rarely +suffer. + +From the month of October until the end of March the temperature is much +lowered by the rains. In December and January snow occasionally falls. +From the beginning of April to the month of October there is great heat +during the day and much dew by night. At this season the greatest care +must be taken of the health. + +The ordinary population of Jerusalem comprises about 20,453 souls, but +at the Easter season this number is more or less increased, according to +the concourse of pilgrims, and it is impossible to fix the numbers, even +approximately. In 1856 about 12,800 pilgrims arrived in the Holy City; +in 1859, 7000; and in 1859 not more than 1200. The following are the +religious communities in Jerusalem:-- + +1st. The Jews, whose numbers amount to 7,738: of these, 5,200 are called +_Sephardim_, and derive their origin from the Jews driven out of Spain +A.D. 1497, under the reign of Ferdinand the Catholic and Isabella. Their +Spanish tongue, mixed with many expressions from the Arabic and other +languages, is the sole trace they have preserved of their former +temporary home. The second branch is composed of 2,500 _Ashkenazim_, +from the countries of the north and west of Europe, who have taken up +their abode at Jerusalem: some moved solely by the desire to die in the +land of their patriarchs, others to exercise their industry, the greater +number to profit, with the _Sephardim_, by the abundant alms sent +thither by their co-religionists of Europe, and badly distributed by a +wretched administration. Finally, the _Karaites_,--a sect which sprang +up about the decline of the Jewish kingdom, and admits no human +interpretation of the Old Testament, nor any Rabbinical book--number +about 38, and are superior to all the rest in intelligence, education, +cleanliness, and probity. They belong to the country, though they may +have occasionally abandoned it for a short time during periods of +trouble. + +The head of the whole Jewish community is the Grand Rabbi +(_Khakam-bashi_), to whom all look up, both as the head of their +religion, and as the one to whom the distribution of the alms chiefly +belongs. He it is who gives civil protection to the _Sephardim_ and +_Karaites_, and supports their interests with the local government; +while the _Ashkenazim_ are protected by the Consuls of the different +nations whose subjects they are. Their synagogues are numerous but +unimportant[35]; a hospital, a dispensary, and a house of refuge, +outside the Jaffa gate, are due to the kindness of their co-religionists +in Europe, among the most distinguished of whom are the Messrs. +Rothschild and Sir Moses Montefiore. It is to be hoped that their public +schools for both sexes will for the future be better managed and more +effective than they have hitherto been. + +The Mohammedans number 7,598; thus divided, Arabs 6,854, Turks 680, +Lepers (a separate class) 64. The first are the proprietors of the +country, and govern it with moderation; less, however, from natural +inclination, than from the advantages resulting to themselves from this +course. They are aware that any excesses committed by them at Jerusalem +would not only entail severe punishment, but involve them in the +greatest distress, for but few of them live on their property or by +commerce. Many are employed in public offices or under the civil and +ecclesiastical authorities; others derive the means of subsistence from +the influx of pilgrims and travellers; and the rest subsist upon the +alms distributed by the convents, and in some cases by the Consuls. From +all these sources the Mohammedan prospers in Jerusalem, and consequently +is generally not averse to the Christian. Even at the time of the late +disasters in the Lebanon and the massacres of Damascus, His Excellency +Surraya Pasha by his activity and force of character was able to prevent +any outbreak in Palestine, thus earning the gratitude of every +Christian. + +The Lepers are separated from all, and inhabit a very filthy quarter, +near the gate of Sion. The reader must not believe that they live in +abject misery; they have property of their own and beasts of burden to +fetch and carry their provisions, and each one has his special duty +assigned to him by the head of their community (chosen from among +themselves); either to provide in some way for the common wants, or, in +the case of the most diseased, to solicit alms incessantly, which is +done with so much success that no one of them would submit to be cured, +for fear of losing so profitable a profession. + +The orthodox Greeks are in number about 2,700; they are chiefly subjects +of the Sublime Porte, and acknowledge as their religious head the +Patriarch of Jerusalem, who also, in virtue of his high position, +directs and counsels them in their civil affairs. The great Greek +convent of Saint Constantine at Jerusalem is the light-tower that sheds +its beneficent rays not only over the city but through the whole +country: being very rich, it exercises the greatest influence; modifies +the policy of the government; curbs fanaticism; rouses the idle; finds +work for the poor; acquires very large landed possessions, and +encourages an enlightened system of cultivation; in a word, it greatly +fosters the small amount of prosperity visible in the country. + +The Greek Church has many convents, hospices, seminaries, schools, and a +hospital; but of these, and of those belonging to the other communities, +I will speak in detail in another chapter. + +The number of the Latins or Roman Catholics is about 1,270. Except a few +who are under the protection of the different Consuls, they are all +subject to the Porte, but yield religious submission to a Patriarch, +delegated by the Pope, who resides in Jerusalem. The inability to lavish +money, as the Greek convent does, would limit the influence of the +Patriarch and the Franciscan Fathers of the Holy Land, but that happily +this want is largely compensated by the special protection accorded to +the Holy Places officially by France, and also by other Christian +Powers, which, though not called upon to give protection, yield it from +devotion. Chief among these is Spain, who, both in times past and +present, has liberally aided in supporting the religious communities +that have the care of the Holy Places. Hence it comes that from these +resources, in addition to those supplied by the French Government, the +Propaganda of Rome, Lyons, and other places, both the Patriarch and the +Guardian of the Holy Land are so well able to minister to the wants of +the members of their Church, to assist the sick, to entertain the +pilgrims, and to maintain seminaries and schools for the civil and +religious education of the youth of both sexes. + +The Armenians do not exceed 526 in number, and belong to the Monophysite +sect, declared heretical by the Council of Chalcedon, A.D. 451. They are +subject to the Porte, but yield religious submission to their Patriarch, +who sometimes gives them excellent advice in civil matters. The +Armenians are few and well governed. They are industrious and free from +abject poverty, applying themselves to trade and commerce, and may be +truly said to live by the sweat of their brows. + +Of the Protestants, about 206 belong to the Anglican Church, and 62 to +the Lutheran; total 268. + +The Copts are so few in number, and so entirely engrossed in their +commercial pursuits, that there is nothing whatever to be said about +them; they live a quiet unobtrusive life, and are 130 in all. + +The Abyssinians are so wretchedly poor that they have ceded, or at least +leased out in perpetuity, most of their rights in the Holy Places to the +Armenians, who, in return, furnish them with the means of daily +subsistence. Their number does not exceed 80. + +Notwithstanding the numerous caravans of pilgrims which Russia annually +sent to the Holy Land, that country formerly did not possess a foot of +ground in Jerusalem. But a few years before the last Eastern war, Russia +established in the Holy City an Archimandrite, for whom the Greeks +themselves supplied a fitting residence. The jealousy of the latter, +however, was soon aroused, and they were foolish enough to treat as +dangerous intruders those whom a more prudent course of conduct might +have made valuable allies. The plans of Russia have perhaps changed +since the late war; that which she has been unable to secure at once by +force of arms, she will doubtless acquire more slowly by other means, +which time will bring more fully to light. Meanwhile she is at present +taking the lead in the restoration of the cupola of the Holy Sepulchre. +In February 1858 a Russian Bishop, accompanied by his clergy, took up +his abode in Jerusalem; in October of the same year, the Russian +consulate was established, and a temporary hospice opened pending the +erection of a permanent one. + +The new buildings are nearly finished, but not yet inhabited. The +community numbers 68. + +The Syrians, who possess a convent presided over by a Bishop, are in +number 32. + +The Greek Catholics have a well-built convent. The number of those +permanently established in the city is 24. + +The Armenian Catholics possess an estate, on which they intend to erect +a church, a convent, and a Bishop's house. Their number will then +increase, at present they are but 6. + +The Ammonites are 8 in number, the Disciples 3, and the Sabbatarians 2: +these three sects have arrived during the last few years from America, +but have not made any proselytes. + +From these numbers it results that the whole population, as I have +already stated, amounts to 20,453. + +Compared with the space surrounded by the walls the population is very +small. Without including the large area of the _Haram-es-Sherîf_, +Jerusalem could easily contain at least three times as many inhabitants +as it now does. If indeed the houses were built two or three stories +high, if those belonging to the Government and the mosques were +occupied, if those now tottering or in ruins were rebuilt and made +habitable, if the numerous convents of the different religious +communities contained a number of inhabitants in proportion to their +sizes, if also the plots of land now abandoned, covered with rubbish or +occupied by gardens, were partially built over, there would be no lack +of room for a greatly increased population. From this it is evident +that, even if the city did not contain the exaggerated number of more +than a million at the time of the siege by Titus, the amount of its +inhabitants might have been considerable, especially when Ophel and the +southern part of Sion were within the enclosure, thus augmenting the +habitable space by more than a third. + +To complete the description of the present state of Jerusalem, a few +words may be said about the sources of water and the sewers, which at +present so insufficiently supply the wants of the city. First come the +cisterns for rain-water, which are thickly sprinkled over Jerusalem and +its suburbs; one at least being possessed by every landholder and +community. When, during the summer-months, the supply of rain-water +fails, the peasants of the neighbouring villages, especially of Siloam +(where it is drawn from the well of Joab, _Bir-el-Eyub_), drive a +thriving trade as water-carriers. Such is the sad state of a city once +so well supplied with water from the works constructed by its former +kings and the Herods, which are now for the most part in ruins. + +The conduit of Solomon (by many called that of Pilate), which constantly +supplied Jerusalem from the fountains of Etham, still exists, and by it +during the last few years (by direction of Kiamil Pasha and Surraya +Pasha) the water was, under my care, again brought into the city. Owing +to the length of the aqueduct (about three hours' journey) it was +impossible to protect it from the Arabs, whose wanton injuries before +long cut off the supply of water. On the west, the Pool of Mamillah, +though partly filled with earth, catches the rain-water, which is +conveyed from it by a dilapidated conduit into the so-called Pool of +Hezekiah, inside the city. This, during a few months of the year, +supplies a bath. The water, being mixed with dirt and the drainings from +the sepulchres round Mamillah, is not fit to drink. The Pool by St +Mary's Gate, being in bad repair, contains very little water; during +twenty or thirty days in the year it supplies the bath close to the +wall, within the city, called _Hamman-sitti-Mariam_. A similar reason to +that mentioned above renders this water also unfit for drinking. The +Pilgrims' Pool, on the north, close to Herod's Gate, is too small to be +worth further notice. The Pool at the head of the Valley of Kidron, on +the north, is filled with earth and stones. That of _Birket-es-Sultan_ +on the west cannot hold water, as it escapes by the south wall. The +great Pool of Siloam is now filled with earth and converted into a +garden. The Pool of Bethesda, within the walls, is almost choked with +earth and refuse that has been thrown into it; by this time it would +have been quite filled up, had not Kiamil Pasha, at my earnest request, +put a stop to the practice in 1856. Within the _Haram-es-Sherîf_ the +great cistern at the south-east corner is not only in ruins but so +filled with rubbish as to be useless. This is the effect not so much of +time as of Vandalism and of the carelessness of Mohammedans about +keeping up ancient monuments; when they are gone they regret their loss, +but take no pains whatever to preserve them. + +The waters naturally unfit for drinking are, inside the city, the +springs of the _Hammam-es-shefa_ (Bath of Shefa), situated near the +western side of the _Haram-es-Sherîf_. The water supplies the +neighbouring bath, but has a disagreeable taste. Outside the city is the +spring called the Fountain of the Virgin, that runs into the Pool of +Siloam. It is used for irrigating the gardens of Siloam and for domestic +purposes. Neither of these springs gives a copious supply of water. + +The city is full of sewers, the principal being that which, beginning +from the Damascus Gate and following the line of the central valley, +goes out under the south wall at the Dung Gate, and continues along the +western side of the same valley till it comes to the great Pool of +Siloam. Another goes along the Street of David, joining the former on +the east. All are in the worst possible condition, and annually stand in +need of repair, as they frequently become choked up by the accumulated +filth. + +The above brief sketch may suffice for the present; the subject will be +treated in detail, and further information given in a future chapter. + + +FOOTNOTES: + +[2] Gen. xiv. 18. + +[3] Ep. ad Evang. Presb. § 7. + +[4] S. John iii. 23. + +[5] Gen. xiv. 17. + +[6] Advocates of the other opinion rely on 2 Sam. xviii. 18, but in this +passage _the king's dale_ only is mentioned, without the specification +of _the valley of the plain_. These last words could not be used of a +place overhung by the steep slopes of Mount Moriah and Mount Olivet. + +[7] Herod, II. 159; III. 5. + +[8] Josephus, c. Ap. I. 34. + +[9] Josh. x. 1-27. + +[10] Judg. i. 21; Josephus, Ant. V. 2, §§ 2, 3. + +[11] 2 Sam. v. 6-9. + +[12] 1 Kings xiv. 25, 26. + +[13] 2 Chron. xxi. 16, 17. + +[14] 2 Chron. xxv. 23, 24. + +[15] 2 Kings xix. 35. + +[16] 2 Chron. xxxiii. 14. + +[17] 2 Kings xxv. 9, 10. + +[18] Note I. + +[19] See the Chronology in Appendix. + +[20] Plates II., IV. + +[21] Note II. + +[22] Note III. + +[23] Note IV. + +[24] Plate V. + +[25] Plate VI. + +[26] Note V. + +[27] Plate VII. + +[28] Images of animals are not forbidden to Mohammedans; see for example +the Court of Lions in the Alhambra. + +[29] Plate XVIII. + +[30] Plate XX. + +[31] Plate V. + +[32] Plate I. + +[33] Note VI. + +[34] Psalm xlviii. 2. + +[35] The Great Synagogue and the Polish are the only two worth mention. + + + + +CHAPTER II. + + ANCIENT TOPOGRAPHY OF JERUSALEM--IDENTIFICATION OF THE MOUNTAINS, + HILLS AND VALLEYS--JERUSALEM IN THE TIME OF THE JEBUSITES, DAVID, + SOLOMON, JOTHAM, HEZEKIAH, MANASSEH, NEHEMIAH, HEROD--THE TESTIMONY + OF JOSEPHUS EXAMINED--THE SIEGE BY TITUS--FORMER EXTENT OF THE + CITY--JERUSALEM IN THE TIME OF HADRIAN, THE CRUSADERS AND SOLYMAN. + + +Having thus described the existing city, let us pass on to consider the +ancient, and endeavour to recognise in its mountains and hills, its +valleys and other landmarks, points corresponding to the allusions of +the Bible and the writings of Josephus. We will suppose the reader to be +standing with us on the summit of the Mount of Olives, and will point +out the chief features of the view before him[36]. At the first glance +we see that the city is built upon two nearly parallel ranges of hills, +separated by a central valley. These we proceed to examine in detail. +The summit of the western part forms a kind of plateau, extending from +the north-west to the south, whose highest points are at the southern +extremity, at the Armenian convent, at the castle of David, and at the +north-west corner; but on closer examination we see that the plateau, +which commences at the castle and terminates at the south, forms a hill +sloping sensibly on the west, east, south, and slightly on the north as +far as the street of David, where there is nothing to be seen which +would induce us to suppose that a valley had once existed there. I +believe that the fortress of the Jebusites, and afterwards that of Sion, +used to stand on the upper part of this hill, and that the city of +David[37] extended over the whole of its irregular quadrilateral area. +This opinion is confirmed by Josephus, who says[38] it was defended by +precipices on every side, except the north, which, being the weakest, +was guarded by a triple wall. This hill then has on the west the valley +of Gihon[39], on the south the valley of Hinnom[40], on the east the +continuation of the central valley, while on the north it is open to +attack, and consequently in former time was fortified there more +strongly than on the other sides, which were inaccessible. Sion is then +the spot on which the _upper city_ of Josephus was situated. + +A street, rising from the Gate of S. Mary and running in a westerly +direction to meet the central valley, distinctly divides the eastern +range. North of this division is the highest ground; on the south there +is the great plateau of the _Haram-es-Sherîf_. Outside the west wall of +the _Haram_ a gentle slope leads towards the central valley, which is +covered by houses. The testimony of Josephus[41] is consequently +verified, that "the city was built on two hills, which are opposite one +to another, and have a valley to divide them asunder; at which valley +the corresponding rows of houses on both hills end." + +Having thus pointed out the western hill, Sion, and the valley indicated +by Josephus, which we call the central valley, let us examine that part +of the eastern range, which is to the south of the dividing street, in +order to identify Moriah and Acra. Josephus[42] states that "the other +hill which was called Acra, and sustains the lower city, slopes[43] on +all sides; over against this there was a third hill, but naturally lower +than Acra, and parted formerly from the other by a broad valley. +However, in those times when the Asamoneans reigned, they filled up that +valley with earth, and had a mind to join the city to the Temple. They +then took off part of the height of Acra, and reduced it to be of less +elevation than it was before, that the Temple might be superior to it." +Hence it appears why we no longer see the broad valley and the two +separate hills, but an area in which the site of the ancient Temple +overtops the rest. We consider Moriah to be the third hill, and Acra the +part lying between the west side of Moriah and the central valley. + +The identification of Moriah does not admit of any doubt. The name and +its probable equivalent Jehovah-jireh, are found in the story of +Abraham's sacrifice[44]; there Solomon[45] built the Temple, whose +precious remains still indicate its position: of these we will speak at +length in a future chapter. The name Moriah is not used by Josephus, but +the place can be identified with certainty from his description. We are +told by him[46] that the platform of the temple was defended on the +north-west by the tower Antonia, which was itself protected by a ditch. +An examination of the Pool of Bethesda and the excavations, which I +made by the foundations of the barracks of the _Haram_, have convinced +me of the historian's accuracy. In his description of the Temple[47] it +is stated that the hill-side to the east of it was precipitous, and that +Solomon was obliged to build a wall to support the made ground. The +ancient wall and the valley of Kidron still exist, in confirmation of +this statement. It is also implied that the south side was precipitous, +which is proved by the remains of buildings still to be seen and the +actual declivity of Ophel. That there was once a large valley on the +west side, is proved by the following fact: on the west of the area of +the _Haram-es-Sherîf_ the rock runs up to the inside of the boundary +wall, but on the outside it disappears, and is replaced by made ground +of very great depth. I have inspected several excavations in the +neighbourhood, and examined the tanks which are just outside the +_Haram_, usually not less than 50 or 56 feet deep, the shaft (passing +through the earth) being generally from 30 to 36 feet, and built with +masonry. Hence I infer that a valley once existed on this spot, and that +the made ground was obtained by the demolition of Acra; by this means +Moriah was thrown open to every part of the city, which surrounded it +like a theatre[48], and so was made 'superior to Acra.' But on examining +the tanks nearer to the Tyropoeon valley, I found the shafts not more +than 12 feet deep: here then was Acra in former times. These few feet of +made ground were probably formed by the destruction of the city by +Titus. Acra was said to 'slope on all sides,' because it had on the east +the 'broad valley,' on the south the descent to the central valley, on +the west the central valley itself, and on the north the valley, which, +starting from the central valley, went in an easterly direction to that +of Kidron. How this last has been filled up I will presently explain. In +the time of Josephus these hills were already united, and so, speaking +generally, the city appeared to be 'built on two hills opposite to one +another.' + +In the northern part of the eastern range we find _Bezetha_, or the 'New +city' of Josephus, which was entirely surrounded by valleys or +ditches[49] artificially made. This position is elevated and opposite to +the north[50] side of the _Haram_, and must therefore be identical with +_Bezetha_, which had the central valley on the west, ditches on the +north and east, and on the south the valley dividing it from the Tower +of Antonia: all which characteristics may still be recognised on the +spot. + +There is yet another hill in Jerusalem, called _Gareb_. The only +instance we have of the use of the name in former times is in Jer. xxxi. +39. Josephus does not mention it, either considering it as part of Mount +Sion, with which it was continuous, or, more probably, comprehending it +in the 'New city.' It bears the name _Gareb_ among the Arabs at the +present day. When I speak of the walls of the city, the Temple, and the +tower Antonia, I will bring forward other arguments to confirm my +assertions about the hills; for the present I reserve them, and pass on +to the valleys. + +The central valley has already been mentioned several times. It agrees +in every respect with the Tyropoeon of Josephus[51], which +"distinguished the hill of the upper city from that of the lower, (and) +extended as far as Siloam." Many who have written on the topography of +ancient Jerusalem, especially Dr Robinson, assert that the Tyropoeon +valley ran eastwards from the Jaffa Gate till it joined the central +valley, at the point where the latter bends to the south-east, in its +course to the Pool of Siloam. In opposition to this opinion, and in +confirmation of my own, I have certain facts to bring forward. The +valley which I consider the Tyropoeon still drains the whole city; all +along it runs a sewer receiving those from the eastern and western +divisions. I have had frequent opportunities of ascertaining this, while +repairs were being carried on[52]. I found that the central sewer, +although 12, 16, and sometimes even 18 feet below the surface, was not +based upon rock, but upon made ground. During the repairs I searched for +the rock in the upper part of the valley, and found it at a depth of 18 +feet, near the Damascus Gate, of 26 feet near the Temple Bazaar, of 22 +feet at a few paces to the north of the Dung Gate. These facts shew that +there was formerly a valley in this part of Jerusalem. Now we cannot +adopt the position assigned to the Tyropoeon by Dr Robinson, for the +following reasons: (1) In the north ditch of the Castle of David we find +the rock, which extends thence in a north-west direction. I came upon it +in 1860, when a building (now used as a custom-house) was erected by the +Greek convent outside the wall adjoining the Jaffa Gate. (2) The rock, +found under the new buildings belonging to the Latin Patriarch a little +to the north of the castle, under the English church and under a new +building to the north of it, plainly shews that the head of the valley +could not be at this spot. On the south side of the Christian Bazaar is +the Greek Convent of S. John, and a few paces to the south of this the +Prussian hospital. While this was being built in 1858, I examined its +foundations, and ascertained the shelving stratum on which they rest to +be a continuation of the rock beneath the convent. Where then could the +valley be? (3) A similar state of things is found on descending about +350 feet to the east. (4) From west to east along the course of the +supposed valley runs a sewer, 6 feet below the ground, cut in some parts +in the rock. This I helped to repair at several points in 1856, and was +able to ascertain that there was but very little made ground anywhere +near it; I cannot therefore allow that there ever was a valley at this +place. Brocardus about A.D. 1283, Adrichomius and Villalpandus near the +close of the sixteenth century, assert that this valley existed, but to +prove their statement they ought to have made excavations. They must +have seen Jerusalem in a condition very like its present, especially as +regards its valleys, which must have been already filled up, either at +the time of the destruction by Titus or of the rebuilding by Hadrian; +for since these periods the city cannot have undergone any material +change. The above authors inferred the existence of a valley from seeing +that the south side of the street of David was considerably upraised, +while the north was nearly level. Had they searched for the rock, they +would have found the higher ground to the south to be nothing but a mass +of rubbish, while the south front of the Convent of S. John, and the +rest of the buildings on the same side, rest upon rock a few feet below +the surface. + +The supposed existence of this valley has led some to think that the +ground, now occupied by the Church of the Resurrection, was the hill +Acra; but this locality does not correspond with any of the +topographical _data_ of Josephus. How could the citadel[53] of Antiochus +Epiphanes be built in this position to command the Temple? How could the +Macedonian garrison from this place harass and even kill the Jews who +were going to the Temple? Could this be Acra 'sloping on all sides' +which was 'levelled that the temple might be higher than it[54]'? None +of these conditions are satisfied, therefore this theory must be +rejected. In the Tyropoeon of Dr Robinson I place the Quarter of +_Millo_: my reasons for doing so I will give at the proper place. + +A valley has already been mentioned as dividing Moriah from Bezetha; +only the eastern extremity of this is now visible, at the Pool of +Bethesda, at which place we will examine it. The north and south side +walls of the pool are founded upon and rest against the rock, while on +the east, as the valley once extended down to Kidron, a solid sloping +wall has been built solely to confine the water. There is also a wall on +the west, and all the observations that I have made in this direction, +as far as the Tyropoeon, have convinced me of the existence of a +valley; and on questioning the old masons who in the time of Ibrahim +Pasha, A.D. 1836, laid the foundations of the Barrack of the +_Haram-es-Sherîf_, I was assured that on the north side they had gone +down not less than 26 or 30 feet before they came to the rock. On the +south side of the Latin Chapel of the Flagellation, which lies directly +north of the Barrack, the Franciscans had to dig 16 or 18 feet for the +same purpose. In laying the foundations of the Austrian Hospice above +the eastern verge of the Tyropoeon, A.D. 1856, I clearly ascertained +the existence of the valley on the south side, and have done the same on +the property of the Armenian Catholics, called 'the first fall of +Christ.' Hence I conclude that there was a valley in this part of the +city, which divided Bezetha from Moriah and the north-west corner of +Acra. + +A small valley, commencing on the north near Herod's Gate, runs into the +city, and terminates at the Pool of Bethesda, thus dividing Bezetha into +two parts. Inside the city it can hardly be distinguished, owing to the +quantity of rubbish by which it has been filled up. Its existence +however is proved by the water-courses that descend from the east slope +of the western part of Bezetha. + +Let us now proceed to examine the exterior of the city. Ophel or Ophlas +is to the south of the _Haram-es-Sherîf_. Its position corresponds +exactly with the statement of Josephus[55], that it adjoins the Temple +on the south. Its form is that of a triangle with the base resting +against the south side of the _Haram_ and the vertex directed towards +the Pool of Siloam. It is bounded on the east by the sloping sides of +the valley of Kidron, on the west by those of the Tyropoeon valley. +Its defences were carefully attended to by different kings of Judah, +because its fortifications greatly increased the strength of the Temple, +which otherwise would have been exposed to an attack from the south. The +position is a sufficient argument for its identity. + +The positions of Mount Olivet and the Mount of Offence are indisputable. +David[56] went up Mount Olivet, weeping, after crossing the torrent +Kidron, and the Mount of Offence[57] is 'before Jerusalem.' Olivet is +frequently mentioned in the New Testament, especially in the Acts of the +Apostles, where its distance from the city is fixed by the words +"Olivet, which is from Jerusalem a sabbath-day's journey[58]," that is, +a little more than 2000 cubits, according to the rabbinical writers; and +so we find it to be. We may also cite in confirmation the testimony of +Josephus, who says that it "lies over against the city on the east side, +and is parted from it by a deep valley interposed between them, which is +named Kidron[59]." + +Authors differ about the site of Mount Gihon[60], or Guihon, but I place +it on the west, because we find that Hezekiah "stopped the upper +water-course of Gihon, and brought it straight down to the west side of +the city of David[61]," and Manasseh "built a wall without the city of +David on the west side of Gihon, in the valley, even to the entering in +at the Fish-gate[62]." This gate was probably the same as that of Jaffa, +which might very likely bear this name, because through it the produce +of the sea would be brought into Jerusalem. If Gihon does not correspond +with the hill on the west, outside the city, I cannot understand the two +verses cited above; especially since Hezekiah could not have brought +water into the city from any other point, without either cutting through +the hills with great trouble and expense, or making an aqueduct over a +valley. + +The Hill of Evil Counsel is probably the same as Tophet[63]. We find +from the prophet Jeremiah that it was a place of sepulture, and indeed +it was only there that room could be found for the purpose. Even now +the Arabs call it the _Mount of the Sepulchres_, from the number of +graves there. They call Hinnom the _Valley of the Fire_; in Syriac it is +_Gehenna_ (Hell). This nearly corresponds with the _Valley of +Slaughter_, as it is called by Jeremiah[64]. It is not impossible that +the fortress of Bethsura[65] stood on this mount, which was distant from +the city about five[66] stadia, towards the south. Mount Shafat, or +Scopus, is the northern part of the range of Olivet, which runs in a +north-west direction; the account of it given by Josephus, the distance +from the city of seven stadia, the use made of it in the strategic +operations of Titus[67], all correspond exactly with this position. + +Having thus gone through the chief points of topographic interest, let +us glance at the condition of the city during the different epochs of +its existence. First, then, in the time of the Jebusites. On this +subject the Bible only tells us, that it was defended on the south by +the valley of Hinnom[68], that it was on high ground, and, in the then +state of the art of war, nearly impregnable, so that its inhabitants +thought it could be defended against the army of David by the blind and +the lame[69]. Jerusalem was then divided into two parts, the Fortress +and the Lower City[70]. Hence we can understand how it was that the +descendants of Benjamin[71] dwelt at Jerusalem with the Jebusites; the +former dwelling in the Lower City, the latter in the Fortress. This we +find confirmed by the statement of Josephus[72]. It is very probable +that the fortress of the Jebusites covered the platform of Sion, which +reaches from its southern extremity to the castle still existing on the +north, and is bounded on the east by the Tomb of David, the Armenian +convent[73], and the English church. This opinion is confirmed by the +remains of an old wall, which the Armenians found on building a seminary +and rooms for pilgrims, and by the discovery of an ancient pool. Both +these appear to be the work of a very early age, and anterior to the +introduction of Phoenician art into Jerusalem. The lower city must +have occupied the eastern slope of Sion near the western side of the +Tyropoeon. Owing to the scanty materials that have come down to us, we +cannot add anything more about the city of the Jebusites. + +The form and size of the City of David have already been mentioned in +the account of Mount Sion. It is stated in the Bible, that David, +directly after his conquest, began to strengthen not only the fortress +but the whole city, that he dwelt in the fortress[74], that the King of +Tyre sent labourers to build his house[75], which was certainly the +whole fortress, that "David built round about from Millo and +inward[76]," and that "Joab repaired the rest of the city[77]." We are +not told that David enlarged the city, but unquestionably he fortified +it; possibly however he may have made its form more regular by bringing +the houses up to the edge of the declivities of the valleys on the west, +south, and east. To test this opinion I examined the part of Mount Sion +which is outside the present wall, and found in the Protestant cemetery +the vertical hewn rock, and a flight of steps close by cut out of it, +which were discovered by the workmen employed by the Mission; at the +same time large stones were also dug up in the ground, such as are +frequently thrown out by the spades of the husbandmen. On questioning +some of them, more particularly the older men, I heard that, for a long +time past, large stones had been found in considerable quantities, and +sold by the landowners to the builders in the city, who, in order to +remove them more easily, broke them up on the spot. I was able to +satisfy myself of the truth of this statement at the place itself[78]. I +then asked them about the shape of the stones, and inquired whether +those found near the surface corresponded with those found at a greater +depth, and was told that the former were usually rusticated, and also +almost calcined, while the latter were large irregular blocks in +excellent preservation. I satisfied myself of the truth of this by +examining the two kinds of stone. I then inquired about the direction in +which the greatest number of stones were discovered, but their answers +on this point were so vague, that I determined to make some excavations +on my own account. With some difficulty permission was obtained from the +owners of the land, under the condition that I should use their workmen, +give them all that might be found, and make them a present in addition. +As I was only anxious to obtain proof of the position of the wall of +David, I willingly agreed to this. The attempt was successful; at +certain points on the south and east[79] I found the rock hewn vertical +or cut into steps, or else steep and broken; on it fragments of ancient +masonry still remained, built of large irregular blocks, fitted together +without mortar: in some places other rows of stones, joined with greater +skill, were laid upon these, which in turn supported others rudely +rusticated in high relief, with the surface rough. I am inclined to +think that the lower rows belong to the period of the Jebusites, the +next to that of David[80], and the upper to a later date. Near the Pool +of Siloam the vertical hewn rock is again plainly seen, and also inside +the city, on the west side of the Tyropoeon Valley, and in front of +the Mosque _el-Aksa_. I believe therefore that the Wall of David can be +traced on the south and east. A careful examination of the western brow +of Sion and the configuration of the ground shew that this wall must +have followed its present course, and have continued in the same +direction as far as the south-west angle. All that I have been able to +find at the castle belongs to a much later period, as we shall presently +see. North of Sion, on the south side of the Street of David, the ground +is covered by houses. I have therefore been unable to examine it, and +can only draw inferences; but I am led to think that Millo was on that +side for the following reasons.--We have seen that David "built round +about from Millo and inward[81];" which must mean that _he began to +build from the position of Millo inwards_, i.e. to the south, or round +about the city. Now I believe that the quarter of Millo derived its name +from the great pool in the neighbourhood, commonly called the Pool of +Hezekiah[82]--the original _Millo_ of David. A learned Russian ex-rabbi +explained to me that the word _Millo_ generally meant 'made ground,' but +that a large reservoir, which receives water from another, is commonly +called _Millo_, while this other is called _Mamillah_, and +water-carriers, _Malleah_. We can therefore understand that David began +to build from Millo, because, as there is not a valley on that side, it +was the weakest part of the city. This explanation, as we shall see, +suits all the other passages in the Bible in which Millo is mentioned; +but it cannot be a place of 'made ground,' because there is none here. +This is all that is known about the City of David. + +The city was undoubtedly enlarged in the reign of Solomon, by the +addition of Mount Moriah, on which the Temple was built[83]. David +bought the threshingfloor (its site) from Araunah[84], a rich Jebusite, +at which time it evidently was outside Jerusalem: but when Solomon built +upon it, he joined it to the City of David[85]. Josephus also tells us +that Solomon enlarged the city, and built new walls and fortified it +with towers[86]. My opinion is that Solomon's wall began on the north +side of David's, to the east of the Castle, and ran in a northerly +direction, till it bent round to the east, so as to include Mount +Moriah, which it encompassed on the east, south, and for a short +distance on the west, till it again joined the wall of the City of +David, after crossing the Tyropoeon Valley. Thus the fortifications of +the Old city were strengthened on the north, while the New was liable to +be taken from the north-west and a small part of the north side; but the +rest of this, and the other sides, were strongly defended by art or the +natural difficulties of the position. In this new part of the city I +have found fragments of the age of Solomon in the foundations of houses, +in the walls of the Pool of Bethesda, and in the eastern and southern +boundary wall of the _Haram_; but will speak of these more particularly +in the chapter on the Temple. The remains that I have seen or found +inside the city are of the greatest interest, but all belong to a much +later period. In the passages of the Bible that speak of Solomon, we +find frequent mention of _Millo_; for example, "This is the reason of +the levy which King Solomon raised, for to build the house of the Lord, +and his own house, and Millo, and the wall of Jerusalem.... Pharaoh's +daughter came up out of the city of David unto her house which Solomon +had built for her: then did he build Millo[87]." And "Solomon built +Millo, and repaired the breaches of the city of David his father[88]." +This Millo is not the same as the Millo of David; for I hold with the +rabbinical tradition, that Solomon's house was near the south side of +the Temple, to which place he brought Pharaoh's daughter from the City +of David; that this Millo is the immense reservoir still to be seen at +the south-east corner of the _Haram-es-Sherîf_, and that the materials +derived from it were used to fill up the depths of the Tyropoeon +Valley, between the New and the Old City. The "House of Millo, which +goeth down to Silla[89]," where Joash was murdered, I take to be near +the Millo of David, because the _going down to Silla_ must have been a +street leading down to Siloam, and therefore corresponding with the +street of David. We may observe that this part added to the city is +specified at an early period[90]. + +Some works of defence appear to have been constructed on Ophel, before +the reign of Jotham, for it is said that "Jotham built much on the wall +of Ophel[91]," which seems to mean that he found the wall already in +existence. What he did build there we have now no means of ascertaining. +Of Hezekiah we learn that he "built up all the wall that was broken, and +raised it up to the towers, and another wall without, and repaired +Millo, _in the City of David_[92]." This place I have already identified +with the Pool[93] bearing Hezekiah's name, which before his time was +outside the city, and was by him enclosed within the defences so as to +deprive the Assyrians of water. In confirmation of this view I may +mention that when the fathers of the Holy Land were laying the +foundation of the house now occupied by the Latin Patriarch, they came +upon remains of the solid masonry of the old wall. The same thing +occurred to the Copts on the north side of the foundations of their +Hospice. I do not speak of this from personal knowledge, as I was not +living in Jerusalem at the time, but I have no doubt of the truth of the +statement. I myself found a fragment of the massive ancient wall, when +superintending the laying of the foundations of the little mosque, +dedicated to Omar[94], which is opposite to the Church of the +Resurrection on the south: the masonry was composed of large blocks of +stone, of a tolerably regular form, which were fastened together by iron +clamps: and the thickness of the wall was about seven feet and a half. I +have therefore traced and attributed to Hezekiah the wall, which +starting on the north of the Castle of David, passes on the north of +the Copts' Hospice, and finally joins the line of that which I have +attributed to Solomon, after running parallel to the street of the +Sepulchre. + +A strong line of fortifications was built round Ophel by Manasseh[95]. +Directed by the hints given in the Bible, I examined it as I had Sion. +The answers given to me by the _fellahîn_, the evidence on the spot, and +my excavations, brought to light some traces of a wall of +circumvallation on the east side of the Tyropoeon, and at the south +end of Ophel. The great accumulation of earth on the Kidron side would +have made any investigations very costly, and I was convinced of the +direction of the walls in this part by the account of Josephus[96]; +accordingly I did not make any excavations here. + +Before describing Jerusalem at the time of Nehemiah, it will be well to +enumerate the gates of the city before the Captivity, and to fix, as far +as possible, their positions. We are told that Jehoash king of Israel +"brake down the walls of Jerusalem from the gate of Ephraim to the +corner gate, four hundred cubits[97]." I place the _gate of Ephraim_ at +the N.W. angle of Solomon's wall because it led to the land of Ephraim. +The _Corner gate_ was, I think, at the north-east angle of the platform +of the Temple. We find in Jeremiah "The city shall be built from the +tower of Hananeel unto the gate of the corner[98]," which may be very +well understood to mean "from one extremity of the city to the other." I +believe that the tower of Hananeel was in the present castle. King +"Uzziah built towers in Jerusalem at the corner gate and at the _valley +gate_, and fortified them[99]." The latter might have been in the south +side of the wall of Sion. The _horse gate_[100] is also mentioned, but +this was probably in the wall of the Temple, not of the city. I identify +the _fish gate_[101] with the present Jaffa gate. The situation of "the +_high gate of Benjamin_, which was by the house of the Lord[102]," is +uncertain: I think it to have been either a gate of the Temple, or one +through which a road to the Temple passed. Perhaps it may be found in +the second line of wall on the north, but this is very doubtful. Lastly, +it is said that when the Chaldeans entered Jerusalem, "all the men of +war fled by night, by the way of the _gate between two walls_, which is +by the king's garden[103]." These are the walls of David and Manasseh on +the two sides of the Tyropoeon, so the gate was probably in the middle +of the valley, looking southwards towards the King's garden, now tilled +by the peasants of Siloam. I do not expect that the above remarks will +convince all, but trust that they may at least suggest subjects for +thought and study. + +The city, thus built at different periods, was burnt and destroyed by +Nebuchadnezzar; but let us pass over the sad years of captivity, till +we come to the time when, by the energy and zeal of Nehemiah, it rose +again from its ruins. Something must be said of its aspect at that time, +and especially of its gates; but I must warn the reader that, after all +my labours, I have not been able thoroughly to satisfy myself about +their situation, because of the difficulty of reconciling the third and +twelfth with the second chapter of Nehemiah. Still, without desiring to +push my opinions presumptuously forward, I offer them in hopes that they +may be fortunate enough to attract the attention of competent students +to this interesting point of Biblical Archæology. I know that many have +already attempted to fix the position of these gates, but I am also +aware that their theories are contradictory, and often rest upon +hypotheses which are open to attack. The illustrious Reland has not +chosen to make any positive assertions on these points, and has +contented himself with a simple list of names; I will therefore follow +his example[104]. + +The _sheep gate_[105] must have been in the west wall, that runs +southwards from the castle, in which were the towers of Meah and +Hananeel: the _fish gate_, nearly on the site of the present Jaffa gate: +the _old gate_, in the north part of David's wall, near its junction +with Solomon's: the _broad wall_, that portion of the second enclosure, +which protected the west and north as far as the north-west corner of +the temple area, and the _tower of the furnaces_, outside it: the +_valley gate_, at the extreme south-west corner of Sion: the _dung +gate_, on the south side of Sion, a thousand cubits to the east of the +valley gate: the _fountain gate_, at the east extremity of the north +wall of David's enclosure, and, consequently, at the middle of the +Tyropoeon valley. I identify the _pool of Siloah_ with that, now +filled with earth, below the fountain of Siloam, and the _king's garden_ +with those still existing there. The _stairs that go down from the city +of David_ begin at the south-east angle of that king's wall and extend +eastwards down the slopes of Sion. The _sepulchres of David_ are upon +Sion, a little to the west of that now shewn under that name. The _pool +that was made_ is _Birket-es-Sultan_, outside the walls on the west. The +_water gate_ is in the Tyropoeon valley, to the south of the fountain +gate; the _east gate_, on the site of the present golden gate. Let the +reader now examine the account[106] of the two companies which went, in +opposite directions, to dedicate the new wall to the Lord. + +The _dragon well_[107] may have been near the south end of the pool +_Birket-es-Sultan_; indeed there is a tradition among the Arabs, that a +spring once existed on this spot, but I do not know whether it is of any +value. No remains of the age of Nehemiah are to be found either outside +the present city or in its walls, except in the east wall of the +_Haram-es-Sherîf_: I will explain my reasons for referring these to this +epoch in the chapter on the Temple. + +No one besides Josephus has handed down to us a detailed account of the +topography of Jerusalem in the time of the Herods and Titus: since then +he lived in this period and is our sole authority, I follow his account +entirely. In endeavouring to identify the spots mentioned by him, in a +place that has undergone such frequent alterations, I have not imitated +the example of most writers, in ancient and modern times, who have +copied one from another, and based their arguments on mere hypotheses; +but, during a period of eight years, have devoted myself to a thorough +examination of every part of Jerusalem; have carefully studied the +_terrain_, the rocks, the stones, which I have sought under the +accumulated ruins of centuries; have made deep excavations to trace the +course of the ancient walls, underground passages and conduits; have +watched the digging of numbers of foundations, from day to day, within +and without the city; have collected information from persons worthy of +credit and experienced in building, about the most important works that +had been carried out before my arrival; have descended into and examined +cisterns, clean and dirty; and after working like a labourer during the +day, have read Josephus instead of going to sleep, and tested his +statements for myself. I did not use any other authors except Livy and +Cæsar, whose writings I studied in order to understand thoroughly the +Roman art of war and the siege operations of Titus against the city; and +after I had done all this, I made plans and sections upon the spot. This +being well known to all the inhabitants of Jerusalem, I fearlessly +present the results of my labours to all who take an interest in the +reconstruction of the city of the Herods. I may indeed sometimes be +mistaken in my arguments, or wrong in my conclusions; if so, I shall be +glad to be corrected; thankful if even by this means I have created an +interest in the subject, and given rise to new ideas and a better +knowledge of the archæology of Jerusalem. + +Having now considered the general features of the city, its hills and +its valleys, and seen that it was guarded by a triple wall on the +exposed side and a single wall on those which overhung the valleys[108], +we will proceed to examine this triple line of defence. + +The first wall began on the north at the _Tower Hippicus_, and passing +by the _Xystus_ joined on to the _Palace of the Council_, and ended at +the west gate of the Temple. It was strengthened with much care and +expense by David, Solomon, and their successors. In examining its course +on the present ground, I started from the castle of David, going +eastward in a line parallel to 'David's street' as far as the _Mekhemeh_ +(the Turkish law courts), and thence to the west wall of the +_Haram-es-Sherîf_. + +In order to identify the towers of Hippicus, Phasaëlus, and Mariamne, I +frequently and carefully examined the fortress[109]. In it there are +still three towers, one on the west, just south of the Jaffa gate, +whose architecture, as far as it is visible, appears mediæval; another +to the east of this, built of stones with large rustic work of the +Herodian pattern; and a third to the south of these two, resembling the +first. In all three I ascertained that the Jewish masonry is founded on +the rock, and that, for a height of five feet above the ground, they are +cased with large stones, roughly rusticated; but in the middle tower the +Jewish masonry continues about 39 feet from the bottom of the +ditch--only the _stones_, however, are of the Herodian period, the +architecture is of a later date, belonging to the time when art was +declining in the country[110]; for we see that these interesting remains +are used without the slightest care; being arranged without any regard +to their size, and most of them shewing the marks of the clamps, by +which they were formerly bolted together inside the wall; so that they +have evidently been placed in reverse order[111]. The three towers are +solid inside to a height of 11 feet, and the lower part of the ditch (14 +feet deep) that surrounds them on the north, east, and south, is cut in +the rock; the west tower is nearly 25 cubits square, the centre 40, the +south 20. I adopt, then, Williams' opinion, that the tower Hippicus +stood on the foundation of the first, Phasaëlus on the second, and +Mariamne on the third. This identification seems to agree with Josephus' +description[112]; so that these are the positions of the three ancient +towers, which Titus ordered to be spared, "in order to demonstrate to +posterity what kind of a city it was, and how well fortified, which the +Roman valour had subdued[113]." + +It may be urged, as an objection to this, that the cisterns, mentioned +by the historian, are not to be found in these towers; but it is surely +very unlikely that these would come down to us through so many changes. +One tower has been enlarged to accommodate a greater number of troops, +and nothing is more probable than that the cisterns would be destroyed +in some of the extensive alterations which the buildings have undergone; +for example, in making the story 20 cubits high, which now exists in it; +besides, the cisterns, which are in other parts of the fortress, seem to +shew that those within the towers have been removed. We shall presently +see that the position assigned to Hippicus agrees very well with the +historian's statements on other points, especially on the second +position, occupied by Titus during the siege[114]. + +The number of houses and the character of their several owners make it +impossible to excavate along the street of David, from the tower +Hippicus to the west wall of the Temple; so that I was obliged to be +contented with what I could find above ground. In many places I noticed +large stones, generally rusticated, built into the lower parts of the +present houses; for example, in the Greek convent of S. John, in the +south-east corner of the Pool of Hezekiah, and in many houses on the +south of the above-named street. These stones I suppose to be remains of +the old wall, because I cannot think that any one would have taken the +trouble to bring them from a distance. The most remarkable thing is a +semicircular Jewish arch, forming part of an ancient gateway, now almost +entirely buried. This I will describe when I come to the second wall. + +The Xystus, as appears from several passages in Josephus, was a public +place surrounded by buildings, on the lower slopes of Sion, opposite the +west wall of the Temple. We are told that the priests built a wall on +the west of the Temple, to prevent king Agrippa II. from watching the +sacred rites from the top of his palace[115] near the Xystus; also that, +after the capture of the lower city and the Temple, the Jews, entrenched +on Sion, asked to speak with Titus, and that he placed himself on the +west side of the Temple, for "there were gates on that side above the +Xystus, and a bridge that connected the upper city with the +Temple[116]." The Xystus is also mentioned in conjunction with the +bridge in other passages; but it is unnecessary to quote them, as the +present state of the ground assists us in determining its position, the +slope of Sion being much less here than at any other part of the east +side. In the careful investigations that I have made on the west side of +the Tyropoeon, I found evidence that the surface had been levelled in +the direction of the street of David; this however did not extend +southwards beyond the point opposite to the south-west corner of the +_Haram-es-Sherîf_, where the ground is very much broken with steep faces +of rock; therefore, as I cannot suppose that a public place would be on +an uneven site, I imagine that the Xystus began at the street of David +and ended before it came opposite to the south-west corner of the +_Haram_. + +The Palace of the Council was probably situated in the position of the +present _Mekhemeh_. The number of stones of Jewish workmanship of the +Herodian period in the foundation of the present building, and its +position with reference to the Xystus and the Temple, are strong +arguments in favour of this identification[117]. This is all that I have +been able to gather about the northern part of the first line of walls; +excavations being impossible, from the nature of the place, and still +more of the inhabitants. + +On the west, the first wall started from _Hippicus_ and "extended +through a place called _Bethso_ to the _gate of the Essenes_, and after +that it went southward, having its bending above the _fountain of +Siloam_, where it also bends again to the east at _Solomon's pool_, and +reaches as far as a certain place which they called _Ophlas_ (Ophel), +where it was joined to the eastern cloister of the Temple[118]." I have +already stated how I was able to retrace this part of the wall on the +south of Sion and at Ophel, and have no more to add, except that I +found, during my investigations on Sion, great vaulted cisterns hewn out +in the rock, remains of conduits, also cut in the solid rock, and ruined +caverns, which had obviously once been reservoirs; but all these +occurred inside the circuit of the wall, that I have laid down on the +Plan, and never outside; shewing that one part had been formerly covered +by houses, the other not. The position of _Bethso_ is unknown: some +think that the word means "house of filth:" one Rabbi supposes it to +have been a place where waters met; however, I have not been able to +find out anything certain about it. + +The site of the _gate of the Essenes_ is also unknown to us: I place it +at the south-east angle of the City of David, because this position +seems to suit best the Greek text of Josephus--"the wall extended +downwards to the gate of the Essenes[119];" moreover, from this point I +see that the wall could bend to the south, while, from a higher +position, a very irregular course must be given it, in order to obtain +this angle. + +The positions of the fountain of Siloam and the pool of Solomon cannot +be doubted. As the latter is filled with earth, I was obliged to make +excavations, in order to ascertain whether it still retained marks of +its antiquity. I found that the wall on the east side, especially in its +lower part, was of ancient Jewish work; so also were parts of the +north-west side and the east extremities of the other two walls. The +pool is from 7-3/4 to 10 feet deep on the south-east, and 14 feet on the +north-west. I have no doubt that it is as old as the time of Solomon, +and think it may be the one named by the prophet Isaiah, "Ye made also a +ditch between the two walls for the waters of the old pool, but ye have +not looked unto the maker thereof, neither had respect unto him that +fashioned it long ago[120]." + +Josephus does not directly state that the east side of Sion, above the +Tyropoeon valley, was fortified, but we may infer it, as he[121] tells +us that, when Titus had gained possession of the Temple and Ophel and +all the north part of Jerusalem, he laid siege to the Upper City, which +must have fallen at once, if there had not been a wall defending it on +the east. We can hardly suppose that the Jews would have built it at the +time, after seeing the fall of their strongest bulwarks, the tower +Antonia and the Temple, nor would an obstacle hastily thrown up, and +therefore weak, have arrested the victorious Romans. + +The second wall is thus described: it "took its beginning from that gate +which they called _Gennath_, which belonged to the first wall; it only +encompassed the northern quarter of the city, and reached as far as the +_tower Antonia_[122]." I have already mentioned the addition made to +the city of David and its probable extent, in speaking of Jerusalem at +the time of Solomon: consequently I now have only to give the reasons +that have induced me to fix the position of the places, and see whether +they agree with the narrative of the historian. There are but two points +to give in the line of the wall, the _gate Gennath_, whose position we +must determine, and the _tower Antonia_, which was situated at the +north-west angle of the platform[123] of the Temple, and whose position +we may consider to be nearly ascertained. I place the gate Gennath (i.e. +of gardens) east of the tower Hippicus, in the northern part of the +first wall, at the place where I stated that I had found an ancient +Jewish semicircular arch. From its name we may infer that it opened on +cultivated land, and Josephus[124] speaks of the gardens on the north +and north-west of the city, which were destroyed by the troops of Titus +in levelling the ground. If the Pool of Hezekiah be the same as the pool +_Amygdalon_[125] (of almonds), we may infer that probably plantations of +almonds were in this neighbourhood. We must also recollect that if the +sepulchre of Joseph of Arimathea were on the north-west, there would be +a garden here[126]. Now as all the gates of Jerusalem in former times +were named from their position or destination, it is very probable that +this was called the _garden gate_, because the road to the gardens went +through it; and indeed on excavating by the side of the arch above +named, I found the two piers, which have been preserved by the +accumulation of the earth. The arch, visible for about five feet above +ground, is formed of large stones, rusticated, although the work has +been much injured by time. They are firmly fastened together inside with +iron clamps without mortar, that which I saw being merely superficial, +and introduced by the Arabs during repairs. The two piers are +constructed of similar masonry, but here the rustic work is very +conspicuous. I discovered that the gate was founded on the rock, was 18 +feet high and 8-1/2 wide. It is buried by a mass of rubbish, that here, +as elsewhere, has raised the true level of the soil. The position of the +gate (looking west) is not incompatible with its having formed part of a +line of defence from the tower Hippicus to the Xystus; because not only +were angles admitted into the systems of fortifications of that time, +but also, with regard to Jerusalem, we are told by Tacitus[127] that +"Walls with re-entering angles and curves, to take the assailants in +flank, enclosed two very high hills." + +In the immediate neighbourhood of the tower Hippicus I was not able to +find any ancient remains, and therefore suppose that the wall commenced +at this gate. I sought for its ruins, along a line northwards from this +point, but was at first unsuccessful; although I found a fragment of a +building on the east side of the plot of land formerly occupied by the +convent of S. Mary the Great[128], which may possibly belong to an early +period; but I had afterwards three opportunities of learning that I was +not mistaken, in expecting to find the required evidence somewhere in +this part. (1) In January 1857, the weight of a quantity of fallen snow +threw down a part of the wall of a Mohammedan Bazaar[129], called the +Meat Bazaar, near the above-named convent. By order of the Governor I +repaired it in 1858, and in digging down to the rock to lay the new +foundations, at a depth of 10 feet below the surface, came upon large +stones, boldly rusticated, and arranged in a manner that reminded me of +the Phoenician work of the time of Solomon. This wall is nine feet +thick, and consists of three courses of stone, the first, which lies on +the rock, being 3-1/4 feet in height, the second 2, and the third 2-1/2; +thus an extension both north and south from this spot was proved by this +fragment. (2) In 1858 the Russian mission at Jerusalem, by my +suggestion, obtained a piece of land near to the church[130] of the +Resurrection on the east. In 1859 they cleared away the accumulated +rubbish, and during the work a corner of a Jewish wall was discovered; +the stones of which were rusticated to a depth of 4 or 5 lines, and +carefully finished; these were the remains of a restoration of the time +of the Herods on the ancient foundation of Solomon's wall. (3) In 1860 +the dragoman of the French consul built a house, close to the west side +of the present _judgement-gate_, and in digging down for the rock found, +at a depth of 18 feet below the surface, a fragment of a wall, +resembling in all respects that described above in the first case. From +these three points I ascertained the course of the west side of the +wall; it remained therefore to search for the northern face towards the +Damascus gate; and an opportunity occurred before long, when the Greek +Archimandrite Bisarion repaired and strengthened a house (now +temporarily occupied by the Russian consulate). I dug some pits to +examine its foundation, but no remains of antiquity were discovered, and +the only result of my labours was to ascertain the true level of ancient +Jerusalem at this spot. I made enquiries of all, who in former years had +built in this neighbourhood, but could not hear that any Jewish ruins +had ever been found, and therefore think that the wall must have turned +sharp to the east at the _judgement-gate_ (formerly the gate of +Ephraim), and so, facing the north, gone on to the tower Antonia. The +occurrence of very large stones, evidently of Jewish work, in the walls +of the houses (especially in the lower parts) in this direction confirms +this idea. These were found when the Effendi Kadduti repaired and partly +rebuilt the house in the Via Dolorosa, at the _Station of Veronica_. A +similar discovery was made by the Mufti, in strengthening his house, at +the _Station of Simon of Cyrene_; and by the Effendi Soliman Giari, +opposite to the Mufti's house on the north. The Armenian Catholic Monk +requested me to examine and level a piece of land, at the _Station of +the first fall of Christ_, which, as representative of his nation, he +had just bought. In the lower part of the wall enclosing it on the north +very large stones and an ancient gate were found. + +In the foundations of the Austrian hospice, laid in 1857, to the north +of the Armenian property, large stones were discovered, and also, +farther to the east, in the new convent of the Daughters of Sion. From +all these facts, I infer that the line of the second wall passed along +this side. I may also remark that the Greek text of Josephus states that +the wall "went up to the Antonia[131];" and we can still see, from the +conformation of the ground in this direction, that, after crossing the +Tyropoeon valley, it would _go up_ to the tower. The assertion that +the second wall "only encompassed the northern quarter of the city," is +true, because, at the time of Josephus, Hezekiah's wall must have been +standing, and therefore considered to form part of the second line. I +once supposed that the gate Gennath was near the tower Hippicus on the +east, and that consequently the second wall went in a zigzag course +until it joined the Antonia: but, as mentioned above, I did not find any +traces of it very near the tower Hippicus, and I think that if the gate +of Gennath had been close to this, the historian would have mentioned +it. I have already said that I attribute this wall to Solomon, because +it is mentioned in the Bible in connection with events after his time. + +Josephus states that "the beginning of the third wall was at the tower +Hippicus, where it reached as far as the north quarter of the city and +the tower Psephinus, and then was so far extended till it came over +against the monuments of Helena, which Helena was queen of Adiabene, the +daughter of Izates; it then extended farther to a great length, and +passed by the royal caverns (+spêlaiôn+), and bent again at the tower of +the corner, at the monument which is called the Monument of the Fuller, +and joined to the old wall at the valley called the Valley of the +Kidron[132]." In laying down the course of this wall I differ from all +those (in particular Barclay, Schultz and Robinson) who, up to the +present time, have written on the topography of ancient Jerusalem. I am +led to do this by the careful investigations, which, during a long time, +I carried on in the district north of the city. It is my positive +opinion that the ancient walls did not extend to the north beyond the +present enclosure; that is, that they began at the Jaffa gate, passed by +the Damascus gate, and ended at the north-east corner of the +_Haram-es-Sherîf_. Let me now state the facts which have led me to this +conclusion. + +In 1860 the Greek convent repaired the building outside the Jaffa[133] +gate, now used as a custom-house. Wishing to lay some foundations +against the city wall, I came, on digging down, upon those of Agrippa's, +which rest upon the rock; now we know that this wall near to Hippicus +was defended by the steep slope of the side of the valley, and that +where this ceased, towards the north-west corner, a ditch was cut in the +rock. This may still be seen, and is a proof that I am right in +supposing the present to be the wall that went from Hippicus to +Psephinus. + +At the north-west corner a massive ruin still exists inside the city, +rising about twenty feet above the ground, and built of small stones +joined with strong mortar; in the south-west corner however are found +large stones, rusticated after the Herodian pattern. On digging about +the shapeless pile, I discovered that courses of similar stones +continued down to the rock. I also found two sides of masonry, and many +large rusticated stones buried in the rubbish, and traces of a great +cistern. Hence I consider this to be the site of the tower Psephinus, an +octagon in form, and seventy cubits high[134]. Beyond these ruins, +outside the present wall, is a ditch cut in the rock, unquestionably a +work of the Herodian age, for no later conquerors would have had the +time or desire to execute such a great and costly work. It is now +concealed by rubbish, but it runs eastward parallel to the present wall, +which therefore can scarcely have extended beyond it, in the course laid +down by Barclay, Schultz, and many others. + +The position I assign to Psephinus is the highest point in the city; +therefore as the tower was seventy cubits high, we can understand that +from its top the confines of Arabia and the sea (the Dead Sea) might be +visible; indeed the latter may even now be seen from the terraces of the +highest houses in the neighbourhood of the ruins. I call particular +attention to this, because some have supposed that Josephus meant the +Mediterranean; which cannot be seen even from the higher station of +Mount Olivet. Besides he tells us that the tower was _at_ the north-west +corner of the wall[135]. The position assigned to Psephinus by Schultz, +about 1800 feet from the corner, _along_ the line, is not only a very +bad one in a strategic point of view, being in a hollow and commanded by +higher ground in front, but also would not have given a glimpse of the +sea had the tower been double the height. Barclay's position is to the +north-west and beyond the present wall, but nearer to mine and on higher +ground, so that it satisfies the historian's conditions, but still is +inadmissible, because it would be on a plateau without any defences, and +would therefore have been easily taken by the Romans, instead of giving +them some trouble. + +I believe that Schultz fixed upon his position because a pool and some +fragments of a wall, which he considered ancient, were found there. The +reservoir is however too small and is an oblong, and therefore ill +suited for an octagonal tower; in which we should at least expect to +find a square. I examined the wall by excavations, and found it to be +only an Arab work: some stones, large but not thick, are the only things +that have a look of antiquity, and this character is not decisive +because they are embedded in mortar; in fact they are only the remains +of some slabs that have once been used in a conduit. Barclay has +certainly made the most of the reservoir of the _Meidan_; but in his +time it was filled with rubbish, and therefore could not be examined. I +have seen it empty, and its dimensions are nine feet deep, twenty long, +and ten wide. It is therefore too small for the tower. I have surveyed +and carefully investigated all the ground near it, for the Russian +Mission and for Signor Tanûs (the owner of the reservoir), but could not +discover the slightest trace either of defensive works, or a wall, or +detached stones, to induce me to believe that a fortification ever +occupied this spot, but on the contrary found rock, either quite bare or +thinly covered with a red clayey soil. Other writers have assigned other +positions to Psephinus, which are either near the above, and so open to +the same objections, or else do not agree with the account of Josephus. + +At the north-west corner the wall turns to the east, and after about 150 +paces, before arriving at the Damascus Gate, we come to a new Greek +building, touching the city-wall. When the foundations of this were +laid, I examined a piece of wall, entirely of the age of the Agrippas, +some stones of which are still visible. From this we see that a part of +the wall, or a tower, was formerly on this spot, in accordance with my +opinion. + +The present Damascus Gate[136] bears strong testimony to the fact that +Agrippa's wall once passed by it. It is flanked, east and west, by two +towers, that are conspicuous objects from inside the city; their bases +are entirely composed of large stones of the Herodian period. They are +twenty cubits square[137], and solid up to the ancient level of the +ground. I believe them to be the 'women's towers' mentioned by +Josephus[138]. I say the ancient level, because in a reservoir outside +the gate, on the east, I discovered traces of another gate, at a lower +level than and supporting the present Damascus Gate. In the south wall +of this there is a segment of a semicircular arch, 12 feet wide and 26 +high, the stones forming the side piers are large and rusticated, those +of the arch itself are also large but smooth. I discovered it in +January, 1861. This I believe to be identical with the 'North Gate' of +Josephus, through which the Jews made a sortie to disturb Titus' first +reconnoissance of the city[139]. On both sides, without the present +gate, are large stones, rusticated, of the Herodian period, some in the +lower part of the present wall, others forming a sort of terrace above +the road. + +About 980 feet north of the Damascus Gate is an isolated rock rising 8 +or 10 feet above the ground, and bearing inside and out traces of the +hand of man. In the east side is an aperture, which resembles the doors +in the sepulchres of the Kings, of the Judges and of Aceldama, and, like +these, has been closed by a heavy stone moving on two hinges, the holes +for which are still visible. It leads into a ruined cistern, nearly +filled with rubbish. I had often been struck by the resemblance this +presented to an ancient sepulchre, and thought that in that case it +might be the tomb of Helena, but several difficulties stood in my way, +and it is to the intelligent co-operation of M. Edmond de Barrère, +French Consul at Jerusalem, that I am indebted for the confirmation of +my idea. During our investigation at this place, we discovered that the +rock appeared to be cut into the form of the base of a pyramid; also, by +excavating inside the cistern, we found traces of tombs hewn in the +rock. Hence I conclude that this is the site of the tomb of Helena. This +is not the only instance where the resting-places of the dead have been +profaned. Near the tombs of the Judges, and to the north of the head of +the Kidron valley, changes of this kind are common: so too at the +sepulchres of Aceldama the peasants of Siloam have converted some into +dwelling-houses, others into barns. We know the history of some of the +accidents that have befallen the grave of Helena; for a church was built +on the same rock by the Empress Eudoxia, between the years A.D. 450 and +461, and dedicated to S. Stephen, who was said by tradition to have been +stoned there; it was destroyed by the Saracens on the approach of the +Crusaders. These rebuilt it, completing the work about the middle of the +twelfth century; but destroyed it again A.D. 1187, fearing that Saladin +would use it to cover his troops in attacking the city. This site +satisfies another condition given by Josephus, when he says that the +tomb was "distant no more than three stadia from the city of +Jerusalem[140]." Now he invariably uses the words 'city of Jerusalem' to +express the part enclosed by the first or second line of walls, and 'the +new city' or 'Bezetha' for that within the third. Agrippa's wall, +commenced A.D. 44, and continued A.D. 66, by the Jews[141], was lying in +an unfinished state at the time of Helena's death; consequently, I +understand that Josephus intended the three stadia to be reckoned from +the second wall. S. Jerome[142], speaking of the Journey of Paula, +states that, coming from Ramah and Gabaah, she left the tomb of Helena +on the left hand, and then entered Jerusalem. The ancient road from +Ramah, whose remains may still be seen, passed a little to the north of +the sepulchres of the Kings, and then turning to the N.W., left the +monument of Helena on the left and entered Jerusalem. The distance from +the north gate, as determined by me, is another very strong argument for +this position. + +The following Jewish tradition also confirms my opinion. It is the +custom for the Jews, every year, about the time of the Feast of +Pentecost, to leave Jerusalem by the Damascus Gate, and pass the whole +day in visiting this rock, the sepulchres of the Kings, the supposed +tomb of Simon the Just, and a grotto, opposite to this, looking south, +called in Arabic _Jadagat el-Ahel_, that is, "store of food" or "alms of +food[143]." They repeat their visit, or rather pilgrimage, for three +days, and never return to the city without scrupulously visiting these +four places. I asked educated Jews the reason of this custom, and was +told that from this direction a great Queen had come, who, during a +severe famine, had brought large supplies of food to Jerusalem, which +were deposited in the above-named grotto; that on her death she wished +to be buried on the north near the city; (I asked them to point out the +place, but they could not), and consequently they went out in respectful +remembrance of her, (they did not know even her name,) and also to visit +the tombs of their ancestors. Thus, though the tradition does not fix +the exact place of the grave, it shews that it was near the city, and +indicates the direction in which it lay. + +Close to the outer side of the wall, a little to the east of the +Damascus gate, is a large deep hollow, almost entirely enclosed on the +south, east, and north, by bare rock, which has evidently been worked at +some very distant period[144]. In the upper part of the south side is a +hole, opening into a long deep cavern extending southward and eastward +under the city; and facing this, to the north, is the (commonly called) +grotto of Jeremiah. These are nothing but ancient stone-quarries, which +I consider to be the _Royal Caverns_ of Josephus, and believe that the +stones, which at different times have been used to build the city walls +and the Temple, have been, at least in great part, taken from them. They +were separated one from another, as at present, partly in getting the +stone and partly in fortifying the north of the New City (Bezetha) with +a ditch, which still runs eastward along the wall till it arrives at the +pool near S. Mary's gate. It is cut entirely in the rock, like the one +on the north-west in front of the tower Psephinus, and is a regular +defence for the city-walls. As similar works have never been found in +any other part of the district on the north, its occurrence at this +place seems a strong argument in favour of my theory. I also compared +the levels of the bottom of the hollow in front of the cavern, and of +the Tyropoeon valley, with the old level of the north gate, and found +they correspond. I further ascertained that the road sloped gently +towards the Temple, so that the huge blocks could have been easily +transported. We may remark also that Josephus uses different words to +express Cavern and Sepulchre[145]; and that the word used in speaking of +this place does not apply to a place of burial. I conclude therefore +that these are the Royal Caverns of Josephus, and if it be objected that +this position restricts too much the line of Agrippa's wall, I ask to +what other place on the north this name can be applied. + +To the east of the Royal Caverns is Herod's gate, and a little below it, +in the same direction, the lower part of the present wall for four +courses above the ground is of Herodian work; another point in favour of +my theory. + +It is stated that "the wall bent again at the tower of the corner, at +the monument which is called the Monument of the Fuller[146]." We must +now endeavour to assign the position of these two. I place the tower +inside the present wall at its north-east corner, where massive masonry +may still be seen on a level with the ground. The Monument of the Fuller +is entirely destroyed, and its place cannot be exactly determined. +Still, two passages in the Bible give some clue: Josiah burnt the grove +which he had removed from the house of the Lord "at the brook Kidron, +and stamped it small to powder, and cast the powder thereof upon the +graves of the children of the people[147];" also, Jehoiakim slew Urijah +"with the sword, and cast his dead body into the graves of the common +people[148]." Now in the valley of the Kidron, east of the corner of the +wall, are some rocks bearing evident traces of workmanship, but so much +injured and weatherworn, and so covered with rubbish, that it is +impossible to say whether they have belonged to a monument or not; but +there are some signs of sepulchres; so, as the 'graves of the common +people' are in the valley of Kidron, I am inclined to think that this +may have been the Fullers Monument. The highway of the Fuller's field is +mentioned in 2 Kings xviii. 17, Isaiah xxxvi. 2, and some think that +this is connected with the monument named by Josephus; but the two +things are quite distinct, and there is no reason why the former should +be near the latter. After passing the monument the wall joined the old +wall, which now forms the north-east corner of the _Haram-es-Sherîf_. + +Having thus examined the line of the walls, let us try to prove, both +from the historian's words and the conformation of the ground, that the +city cannot have extended to the north beyond its present limits. + +It is stated[149] that "the third wall had ninety towers (twenty cubits +square), and the spaces between them were each two hundred cubits, but +in the middle wall were fourteen towers[150], and the old wall was +divided by sixty; while the whole compass of the city was thirty-three +stadia." Now it is quite credible that the middle and old walls had the +above numbers of towers, but it is very hard to understand how the third +could have had ninety, and these two hundred cubits apart. If each tower +was twenty cubits square, then the space occupied by towers would be +eighteen hundred cubits; and if they were two hundred cubits apart, the +sum of their distances would be eighteen thousand cubits; so that the +whole length of the third wall would have been nineteen thousand eight +hundred cubits; which is equal to about nine thousand seven hundred and +ninety-one yards, or _forty-eight stadia_. This, besides being greater +than the whole compass of the city (thirty-three stadia), is far too +large for even the space claimed by Barclay; because in order to obtain +a measurement of this extent, we must suppose a part of the Scopus +itself to have been included within the walls. There must therefore, as +it appears to me, be some error in the text of Josephus in the number +'ninety,' so that no argument can be founded upon it. The position, +however, which I assign to the wall, agrees very well with the +thirty-three stadia, given by the historian as the whole length of the +walls[151]. + +My theory is also supported by the description of Titus' wall of +circumvallation[152]. "He began the wall from the _Camp of the +Assyrians_, where his own camp was pitched; and drew it down to the +lower parts of the New City; thence it went along the valley of the +Kidron to the Mount of Olives; it then bent towards the south, and +encompassed the mountain as far as the rock called _Peristereon_, and +that other hill which lies next it; and is over against the valley which +reaches to Siloam; whence it tended again to the west, and went down to +the valley of the fountain, beyond which it went up again at the +_Monument of Ananus_ the high priest; and encompassing that mountain +where Pompeius had formerly pitched his camp, it returned back to the +north side of the city, and was carried on as far as a certain village +called the _House of the Erebinthi_, after which it encompassed _Herod's +Monument_, and there on the east was joined to Titus' own camp, where it +began. Now, the length of this wall was thirty-nine stadia. Now, at this +wall without were erected thirteen places to keep garrison in, whose +circumferences put together amounted to ten stadia." + +Of the places mentioned in the above description, the camp of the +Assyrians is at the north-west corner of the present line of walls, two +stadia distant from which were the head-quarters of Titus[153]. + +I cannot ascertain the position of the rock Peristereon (dovecote). +According to Schultz this word has the same meaning as the Latin +'Columbarium[154],' and he identified it with the so-called 'Tombs of +the Prophets[155],' but this does not correspond with the 'Columbarium' +of the Romans. Its position indeed, at the first glance, seems to agree +with the _data_ of Josephus; but his words appear more applicable to a +prominent rock than to a monument, which moreover is too far up the +hill-side to be included in the line of circumvallation. I believe +therefore that the Peristereon of Josephus was situated at the north +entrance of the present village of Siloam, where the rocks still bear +marks of having been extensively quarried. + +The Monument of Ananus has been identified by Schultz with the present +tomb of S. Onuphrius, a building in the Doric style, situated in +Aceldama; we will examine it more minutely hereafter. + +I also agree with Schultz in placing the village, called 'House of +Erebinthi' (chick peas), in the valley of Gihon to the west of +_Birket-es-Sultan_, at a spot marked by some ruins, quarried rock, and a +considerable number of cisterns hewn in the rock; called by the Arabs, +_Kasr-el-Asfur_ or _el-Ghazal_ (castle of the young sparrow or of the +gazelle) and _Abu-Wair_. Near, and to the west of _Birket Mamillah_, is +a large mass of ruins, covering some sepulchral caves, which are +identified by Schultz with Herod's monument. Though it is difficult to +recognise in them the customary magnificence of that family, still the +position suits the account of Josephus. They were injured in the early +ages of Christianity on the building of the Greek church of St Babylas, +which was afterwards destroyed by the Persians under Chosroes II., and +to which the present remains belong. + +Some authors are very anxious to extend Jerusalem towards the north +(since this is impossible on the south), in order to make it large +enough to contain the immense population, and the numbers of dead and +prisoners recorded by Josephus[156]. But Hecatæus of Abdera, cited by +the historian[157], reckons its inhabitants, at the time of Alexander +the Great, at 120,000; is it then possible that the population of the +city could have so greatly increased in four centuries, during which +Palestine had been drained by numerous emigrations and frequent +revolutions, and was the field of constant and bloody strife[158]? Nor +must we forget that the defenders were not more than 25,000, nor the +besiegers more than 60,000[159]. Could not then so great a population +(about 2,000,000) furnish a larger garrison for the defence of their +Palladium? Though Titus might have reckoned on the intestine struggles +among the Jews, would he even then, skilful general and experienced +warrior as he was, have undertaken so hazardous an enterprise? Could he +have approached so large and populous a city with an army relatively so +weak? We do not need more evidence to convince us that either the +historian has included in his numbers the prisoners and dead of the +whole war, or has indulged in exaggeration, or else that the figures +have been wrongly transcribed. + +Let us also consider the conformation of the ground on the north. +Josephus has distinctly stated that the city was enclosed by a triple +wall, except on the side of the valleys, where there was but one, as +this part was inaccessible[160]. These few words appear to me to be +fatal to any theory that lays down Agrippa's wall near the Tombs of the +Kings. If he had begun to build it on the ridge south of the upper part +of the Kidron valley, the Jews would of course have completed it on the +same spot, and Josephus would not have omitted to state that the city +was defended to a considerable extent by a valley on the north. But on +this point he is silent, and finding his description correct in other +respects, I cannot suppose that he has made an omission in this. If it +be contended that the upper part of the Kidron valley is too shallow to +be worth mention, I reply, that it is from 16 to 24 feet deep, and was +no doubt deeper in the time of Josephus; who therefore would not have +failed to observe that there was also a valley on the north, which at +any rate was quite deep enough to be a formidable obstacle to an attack +from that side. Again, suppose that the city-wall had come up to the +Tombs of the Kings, or stood a little to the south of them, what would +then have been the use of Titus' reconnoissance from Gofna with 600 +horse[161]; thus uselessly exposing himself to danger, when he could +have examined the place better, and even exhorted the people to submit, +from Mount Scopus. Had the city extended thus far, it would have been +open to view and exposed to an attack on the north-west, being closely +surrounded by higher hills; nor would a skilful general like Titus have +given his men the trouble of levelling the ground from Scopus up to +Herod's monument[162], needlessly increasing the labours of his troops, +and exposing them to constant attacks from the Jews. He certainly would +not have moved his camp to a position two stadia distant from both +Psephinus and Hippicus[163], because he could easily have attacked the +city at any point between the Tombs of the Kings and Psephinus. Lastly, +I assert that no signs of defensive works, natural or artificial, are +found to the north or north-west of the present walls. From the Jaffa +Gate to the Tombs of the Kings, and thence to the north-east corner of +the walls, there is not the slightest trace of the foundation or the +masonry of the outer wall; no great hewn stones scattered over or buried +in the ground; nothing but twenty-six vaulted cisterns, hollowed out in +the rock, and four very small pools, which could not have supplied the +large population that must have covered this space; the rock, though in +places worked, is generally rough and untouched by any tool; the soil is +everywhere red and clayey, its natural condition; another proof that it +was never built over, for where the houses have been destroyed by fire +or age, it is of a blackish or greyish colour, and contains fragments of +walls or at least hewn stones in plenty. Let any one examine the south +part of Sion or Ophel and contradict my assertion if he can. On the +south heaps of broken stones and rubbish are scattered over a grey soil; +on the north is bare rock, or a scanty though rich virgin earth. + +Some, however, infer an extension of the city to the north, from the +occurrence not only of cisterns but also of small cubes of stone, +belonging to mosaic pavements, and of certain walls which, without +proper examination, have been considered to be ancient Jewish work. But +these remains are not of any value, because, as stated by Josephus[164], +there were houses and gardens in the neighbourhood of Jerusalem to the +north. We may indeed infer the same from the words of Nehemiah[165], +because we cannot imagine persons engaged in the service of the Temple +living elsewhere in the environs of the city, on account of the great +number of tombs in every other part. Houses also stood here at the time +of the Crusades, and a church, dedicated to the Martyrdom of S. Stephen; +therefore the occurrence of some mosaics and stones is easily accounted +for. For all these reasons I deny that the walls extended farther to the +north than their present position; and if the advocates of other +theories are not convinced, I invite them to examine the places for +themselves, when they will see that I have spoken the truth. + +A Roman garrison was left by Titus at Jerusalem, after the work of +destruction was completed, to watch over the ruins and prevent any +attempt at restoring the city[166]; and it was not till 60 years +afterwards that Hadrian sent thither a heathen colony to rebuild it and +call it _Ælia_, after his name Ælius. A temple to Jupiter Capitolinus +was erected on the site of the ancient Temple, whence the epithet +_Capitolina_. He forbade the Jews to enter the territory of Jerusalem +under pain of death, in order, according to Ariston of Pella[167], that +they might not behold the home of their fathers even from afar. He also +caused the effigy of a pig to be sculptured in marble on the gate +leading to Bethlehem; an animal unclean to the Jews, but one of the +Roman standards[168]. The southern part of Sion was excluded from his +city, and all agree that its form and size coincided with the present. +On this point we have the testimony of the Pilgrim of Bordeaux[169], who +visited the place early in the fourth century, during the building of +the Church of the Resurrection by Constantine. + +At the time of the arrival of the Crusaders Jerusalem had not undergone +any material change, as we learn from El Edrisi[170], who finished his +work January, A.D. 1154, Benjamin of Tudela, who visited it A.D. 1173, +and Willibrand of Oldenburgh, who stayed there A.D. 1211. During the +occupation by the Crusaders a ditch extended along the wall from the +south-west corner to the Sion Gate. It is now covered by a street, but +on descending into one of the cisterns which opens into the middle of +the road, I found that they were all in reality formed out of the ditch. +This is the only part of the city of the Crusaders that has disappeared +from view owing to the restorations of Solyman the Magnificent, who +ascended the throne A.D. 1534. + +The form of Jerusalem was not changed in his days, although he greatly +wished it. He had given orders to the architect, who was building the +new walls, to extend them on the side of Sion, so as to include the +whole of that hill. Regard for the sanctity of the place was not his +motive (as many Christians both then and since have thought), but fear, +lest in the event of a siege it might be occupied by an enemy, as a +commanding position on which to collect troops preparatory to an +assault. But when the architect, who hated the Christians, saw their +deep reverence for the place and their desire that it might be included +in the city, he determined to leave it outside as Hadrian had done; +without thinking of the political or military views of his sovereign. He +paid dear for his disobedience, for the Sultan recalled him to give an +account of his actions, and regardless of his religious scruples cut off +his head. + +Having thus given a general idea of modern and ancient Jerusalem, we +will proceed to describe all the objects of interest enclosed within its +walls. + + +FOOTNOTES: + +[36] See the Panorama, Plate I, and Plates II., III., IV. + +[37] 2 Sam. v. 6, 7, 9. + +[38] Jewish War, V. 4, § 1. + +[39] 2 Chron. xxxiii. 14. + +[40] Josh. xv. 8; xviii. 16. + +[41] Jewish War, V. 4, § 1. + +[42] Ibid. + +[43] +amphikyptos+. Whiston translates 'Of the shape of a moon when she +is horned.' + +[44] Gen. xxii. 2, 14. + +[45] 2 Chron. iii. 1. + +[46] Jewish War, V. 4, § 2; 5, § 8. + +[47] Jewish War, V. 5, § 1; Ant. XV. 11, § 3. + +[48] Ant. XV. 11, § 5. + +[49] Jewish War, V. 4, § 2. + +[50] Jewish War, V. 5, § 8. + +[51] Jewish War, V. 4, § 1. + +[52] Note I. + +[53] Ant. XII. 5, § 4; 9, § 3. + +[54] Ant. XIII. 6, § 7; Jewish War, V. 4, § 1. + +[55] Jewish War, V. 4, § 2. + +[56] 2 Sam. xv. 23, 30. + +[57] 1 Kings xi. 7; 2 Kings xxiii. 13. + +[58] Acts i. 12; Note II. + +[59] Jewish War, V. 2, § 3. + +[60] 1 Kings i. 38. See Note XIII. + +[61] 2 Chron. xxxii. 30. + +[62] 2 Chron. xxxiii. 14. + +[63] 2 Kings xxiii. 10; Jer. vii. 31, 32; xix. 11. + +[64] Jer. xix. 6. + +[65] 1 Macc. iv. 61; vi. 26, 31; 2 Macc. xi. 5. + +[66] Note II. + +[67] Ant. XI. 8, § 5; Jewish War, II. 19, § 4; V. 2, § 3. + +[68] Josh. xviii. 16. + +[69] 2 Sam. v. 6, 7. + +[70] Ant. VII. 3, § 1. + +[71] Judges i. 21. + +[72] Ant. V. 2, § 2. + +[73] Note III. + +[74] 2 Sam. v. 9; 1 Chron. xi. 7. + +[75] 2 Sam. v. 11. + +[76] 2 Sam. v. 9. + +[77] 1 Chron. xi. 8. + +[78] Note IV. + +[79] Marked with black on the Plan of the Ancient City. Plate II. + +[80] Note V. + +[81] 2 Sam. v. 9; 1 Chron. xi. 8. + +[82] Plate XXXI. + +[83] 2 Chron. iii. 1. + +[84] 2 Sam. xxiv. 16-25; 1 Chron. xxi. 18. + +[85] 1 Kings ix. 15; xi. 27. + +[86] Ant. VIII. 2, § 1; 6, § 1. + +[87] 1 Kings ix. 15, 24. + +[88] 1 Kings xi. 27. + +[89] 2 Kings xii. 20. + +[90] 2 Kings xxii. 14 (margin); Zeph. i. 10. + +[91] 2 Chron. xxvii. 3. + +[92] 2 Chron. xxxii. 5. + +[93] Plate XXXI. + +[94] Note VI. + +[95] 2 Chron. xxxiii. 14. + +[96] Jewish War, V. 4, § 2. + +[97] 2 Kings xiv. 13; 2 Chron. xxv. 23. + +[98] Jer. xxxi. 38. + +[99] 2 Chron. xxvi. 9. + +[100] 2 Chron. xxiii. 15; Jer. xxxi. 40. + +[101] 2 Chron. xxxiii. 14; Zeph. i. 10. + +[102] Jer. xx. 2. + +[103] 2 Kings xxv. 4; Jer. lii. 7. + +[104] Note VII. + +[105] For what follows see Neh. ch. iii. + +[106] Neh. xii. 31, 37, 38, 39. + +[107] Neh. ii. 13. + +[108] Jewish War, V. 4, § 1, 2, 3. + +[109] Plate V. + +[110] Note VIII. + +[111] Jewish War, V. 4, § 3. + +[112] Plate VI. + +[113] Jewish War, VII. 1, § 1. + +[114] Ibid. V. 3, § 5. + +[115] Ant. XX. 8, § 11. + +[116] Jewish War, VI. 6, § 2. + +[117] Note IX. + +[118] Jewish War, V. 4, § 2. + +[119] +Dia de tou Bêthsô kaloumenou chôriou katateinon epi tên Essênôn +pylên.+ + +[120] Isaiah xxii. 1, 11. + +[121] Jewish War, VI. 7, § 2; 8, § 1. + +[122] Ibid. V. 4, § 2. + +[123] Jewish War, V. 5, § 8. + +[124] Ibid. V. 3, § 2. + +[125] Ibid. V. 11, § 4. + +[126] S. John xix. 41. + +[127] "Duos colles, in immensum editos, claudebant muri per artem +obliqui, aut introrsus sinuati ut latera oppugnantium ad ictus +patescerent."--Hist. V. 11; Note X. + +[128] Plate XXX. + +[129] Plate XXX. + +[130] Plate XXX. + +[131] +Anêei mechri tês Antônias.+ + +[132] Jewish War, V. 4, § 2. + +[133] Plate V. + +[134] Jewish War, V. 4, § 3. + +[135] Ibid. V. 3, § 3; 4, § 3. + +[136] Plate VII. + +[137] Jewish War, V. 4, § 3. + +[138] Ibid. V. 2, § 2. + +[139] Ibid. + +[140] Ant. XX. 4, § 3. + +[141] Jewish War, V. 4, § 2. + +[142] Jerome, Ep. CVIII. Ed. Migue, (_Ad Eustochium virginem_). + +[143] Plate LVII. + +[144] Plates VIII., IX. + +[145] +spêlaion+ (cavern), +mnêmeion+ (sepulchre). + +[146] Jewish War, V. 4, § 2. + +[147] 2 Kings xxiii. 6. + +[148] Jer. xxvi. 23. + +[149] Jewish War, V. 4, § 3. + +[150] Whiston reads 'forty' instead of fourteen; the latter is the +number in the Greek text. + +[151] Note II. + +[152] Jewish War, V. 12, § 2. + +[153] Ibid. V. 7, § 3. + +[154] Columbarium means not only a dovecote, but also a sepulchre, with +niches for urns. + +[155] Plate LIV. + +[156] Jewish War, V. 13, § 7; VI. 9, § 3. + +[157] c. Apion. I. 22. + +[158] See the Chronological Table. + +[159] Jewish War, V. 1, § 6; 6, § 1. + +[160] Ibid. V. 4, § 1. + +[161] Jewish War, V. 2, § 1. + +[162] Ibid. V. 3, § 2. + +[163] Ibid. V. 3, § 5. + +[164] Jewish War, V. 3, § 2. + +[165] Nehem. xii. 28, 29. + +[166] Jewish War, VII. 1, § 1. + +[167] Eusebius, Eccl. Hist. IV. 6. + +[168] Jerome, 'Interpretatio Chronicæ Eusebii Pamphili' (Hadr. An. XX.). + +[169] Note XI. + +[170] Note XII. + + + + +CHAPTER III. + + MOUNT MORIAH AND ITS ENVIRONS--HISTORY IN THE TIME OF ABRAHAM, + JACOB, DAVID, SOLOMON, ZERUBBABEL, ALEXANDER THE GREAT, ANTIOCHUS + EPIPHANES, THE MACCABEES, POMPEIUS, CRASSUS, THE HERODS, TITUS, + HADRIAN, CONSTANTINE, JULIAN THE APOSTATE, OMAR, ABD-EL-MALEK, + VALID OR ELULID, THE CRUSADERS, SALADIN, SELIM I., SOLYMAN + I.--GENERAL EXAMINATION OF MORIAH, WITH DETAILS OF THE + INVESTIGATIONS. + + +Mount Moriah, forming the south-east part of the Lower City, is one of +the points in Jerusalem whose situation can be fixed with the greatest +certainty, from the evidence of the place itself with its ruins and +remains, and from the testimony of ancient authors and local traditions. +At the present day it is surrounded by walls and buildings enclosing +the great plateau, in the middle of which rises the majestic +_Kubbet-es-Sakharah_ (Dome of the Rock), on the site formerly occupied +by the Temple of the God of Israel. The followers of Islam, on their +conquest of Jerusalem, dedicated this spot to the service of their own +faith, under the name of _Beit-el-Mokaddas-es-Sherîf_ (the Noble +Sanctuary). They esteemed it the holiest place on earth, after Mecca and +Medina, and, as usual, strictly forbade all unbelievers to enter it. An +accurate and scientific examination of it was not made, so far as we +know, in the days of the Crusaders, and since then, though many have +attempted it, none have succeeded. Ali Bey's description, made A.D. +1807, is correct enough for a traveller, but does not touch upon +questions of archæology; Catherwood, Bonomi, and Arundale, during +Ibrahim Pasha's occupation of Syria, A.D. 1833, commenced a survey with +plans and views; but were hindered and finally stopped by the fanaticism +of the Arabs, and so obliged to bring to a hasty conclusion a work +carefully begun. Many have spoken before scientific societies and +written on this subject in various publications; some after looking at +the place from the Mount of Olives or the terrace of the Barrack at the +north-west corner of the enclosure, others after a hurried visit; but no +one since the time of its destruction by Titus has examined the ground, +no one has carried on careful and systematic investigations there; all +have been content to speak of what appeared above the soil, and were +consequently ignorant of the objects of far greater interest below. + +In consequence of the late war in the East, Mohammedan fanaticism was +somewhat abated, and Kiamil Pasha, Governor of the city, several times +allowed travellers to visit the _Haram_[171], and kindly gave me +frequent leave to enter it alone, without forming one of the train of +some distinguished visitor; at other times I went in disguise with Arab +friends; but on all these occasions I could only use my eyes, and now +and then venture to measure a distance by stepping it. This was not what +I wanted, for I had determined to construct plans and thoroughly examine +the ground in every direction. My wishes were carried into effect by the +great kindness and powerful protection of Surraya Pasha, who attached me +to his service as honorary architect, and then gave me every opportunity +and assistance in accomplishing my design, during a period lasting from +the beginning of 1857 to August 1861, when I returned to Europe. I have +accordingly examined this celebrated place, patiently and perseveringly, +and with no small sacrifice of time and private means[172]. I have +penetrated into the subterranean works, sought out and classified the +conduits and ascertained their course, constructed plans[173], and now +present the details of my labours to the reader, in confidence that, +even if I have not fully accomplished my design, I am the first to bring +forward many facts useful to archæology, and that if others continue the +researches (when that is possible) many great problems will be solved. + +The first mention of Moriah in the Bible is when Abraham, in obedience +to the divine command, came to it to offer up his son Isaac, and the +Almighty, satisfied both of the faith of the father and the obedience of +the son, arrested the knife, and substituted another victim[174]. It is +possible that this mount may have been the scene of Jacob's dream[175], +and not the Bethel usually supposed; where at a later period the golden +calf was set up by Jeroboam. Had it been the latter place it is rather +improbable that the patriarch would have halted at so short a distance +from Shechem, when he fled from the vengeance of the neighbours of +Hamor[176]. Moriah is not directly mentioned in the account of David's +conquest of Jerusalem, nor in the history of his reign, but it is +indirectly when his country was smitten by a pestilence, after that, led +astray by pride, he had numbered the people[177]. He repented and +entreated God, who checked the destroying angel's hand, as his sword was +stretched out over Jerusalem. Bidden by the prophet Gad, the King went +out from the city to raise an altar to the Lord on the threshing-floor +of Araunah the Jebusite, near to which he had seen the angel. He found +the owner with his four sons threshing wheat, purchased the floor for +600 shekels of gold, with the oxen for sacrifices, the grain for +meat-offerings, and the instruments for wood; built an altar there, and +called upon the Lord. The fire of heaven descended upon it, and the +angel thrust back his sword into the sheath. He continued to sacrifice +there, saying, "This is the house of the Lord God, and this is the altar +of the burnt-offering for Israel[178]." From the above narrative we see +that the threshing-floor was without the city, and the property of a +Jebusite, that it was a sacred spot, chosen by the Lord himself for his +House, and identical with Moriah. Josephus[179] informs us that this was +the very place to which Abraham brought his son Isaac to offer him as a +burnt-offering. + +Here it will be well to digress a little to describe a 'threshing-floor' +(Goren) of this period. It consisted of a plot of ground, usually rocky, +levelled to allow of the crops being spread out to the air and sun, +ready for the labourers, yet so situated as to be sheltered from the +full force of the prevailing wind. For greater security it was usually +near a dwelling; and, either within the enclosure or in the immediate +neighbourhood, cisterns were hewn in the rock, some to catch the +rain-water, others to hold the grain and other farm produce[180]. The +purposes for which these were designed can be determined from their +form. Those for water have only one chamber, with a shaft (about 2-3/4 +feet wide) opening out into the middle of the roof; the rest have two +chambers, one below the other, communicating by a hole (about 4 feet +wide) in the middle of the floor of the upper[181], which itself opens +to the threshing-floor by a sloping passage (about 3-1/2 feet wide). The +lower cavern is deeper and larger than the upper. + +I have met with very many of these cisterns during my frequent journeys +in Palestine, where they are still applied to their ancient uses; they +are especially common in those Arab villages which stand upon sites +mentioned in the Bible; as at Beth-shemesh, on the road from Jaffa to +Jerusalem just at the east of the village of _El-Atrun_, at _Neby +Samwîl_ (formerly Ramah the home of Samuel), at Gibeon and Beth-horon, +at _Beit-zacaria_, the ancient Bath-zacharias[182], at _El-Kebab_ in the +plain of Sharon, and in many other places. + +In the threshing-floor of Araunah there are many cisterns, but I wish to +call especial attention to two very near each other, to the north of the +_Kubbet-es-Sakharah_[183] and to one inside it, beneath the sacred rock; +of which the visitor can only see the hole on the north-east side and +the upper part, but can convince himself by the hollow sound of the +existence of the lower cave. These are, in my opinion, the strongest +proofs of the identity of the position of the mosque and its platform +with the ancient threshing-floor of the Jebusite. I will hereafter +explain how I contrived to explore the interior of the cisterns in a +place of such sanctity. + +David collected materials, and instructed his son to build the Temple on +the spot where he had offered sacrifice; and when Solomon had +established himself upon the throne, he commenced the work, which was to +perpetuate the glory of his reign. As his own dominions were not able to +supply suitable wood for the building, and as his people had not as yet +made sufficient progress in art to enable him to execute his magnificent +designs, he asked Hiram king of Tyre to furnish him with cedars from +Lebanon and Phoenician masons[184], with a skilful artist to direct +the work[185]. His request was granted, a treaty was made between the +two kings[186]: timber was prepared and brought to Jaffa[187] by orders +of Hiram, while Solomon had great blocks of stone, of 8 and 10 +cubits[188], quarried and transported to the spot ready for use, so that +"there was neither hammer, nor axe, nor any tool of iron heard in the +house, while it was in building[189]." Before laying the foundations of +the Temple itself he executed great works to enlarge and strengthen the +ground[190]. Josephus indeed states that the summit of the mountain was +so abrupt and surrounded by precipices, that it was hardly large enough +to support the sacred house and the surrounding buildings, and that in +consequence a wall was built on the east, rising 400 cubits from the +bottom of the valley, and the intervening space filled up with earth to +support a portico[191]. The work began in the fourth year of his reign +in the month _Zif_ (April-May) and lasted seven years[192]. + +I agree with Munk that it is impossible to give an exact description of +this Temple; those found in 1 Kings vi. 7 and 2 Chron. iii. and iv. are +very incomplete, and often hard to reconcile; besides the meaning of the +architectural terms used in them cannot readily be determined. That +given by Josephus frequently differs, especially in dimensions, from +those given in the Bible, and the details which he adds seem based upon +mere conjecture. The numerous modern accounts[193] are very dissimilar +and present great difficulties, when elevations are made from them. We +may therefore conclude that a correct idea of the proportions and +architecture of Solomon's Temple cannot be obtained; consequently I have +put aside during my researches all considerations about the height, +style, and ornamentation of the building, referring my reader to +Josephus[194] and Munk[195], and concerned myself only about the +details relating to the ground-plan. This was an oblong, 60 cubits in +length from east to west, and 20 cubits wide. At the entrance of the +Temple on the east was a portico called _Oulam_, measuring 20 cubits +from north to south, and therefore corresponding with the house, and 10 +cubits from east to west[196]. The Temple itself was divided into two +distinct parts; that in front on the east, called _Hechel_ (Palace), now +the Holy Place, was 40 cubits long; inside it, on the right or north, +was the table of shewbread, on the left the seven-branched candlestick; +between these in front of the veil, the altar of incense. The inner +part, _Debir_ (the Holy of Holies), was twenty cubits square, and +contained the ark alone, in which were the two tables of stone, placed +there by Moses at Horeb[197]. + +The Temple was surrounded by two courts. The inner is mentioned in 1 +Kings vi. 36, but its dimensions are not recorded; it was probably an +oblong, enclosing the building, which stood near the west end, so as to +leave a considerable space in front, where the holy things, used in the +Jewish ritual, were arranged; as none but the Priests could enter this, +it was called the court of the Priests[198]. Besides this there was the +'great' or 'outward' court[199], where the people assembled to worship. +In the middle of the inner court, opposite to the entrance of the +Sanctuary, was placed the great bronze altar of burnt-offerings, which +was 20 cubits square and 10 cubits in height[200]. South-west of this +and south-east of the Temple, was the large laver called from its size +the 'sea of bronze,' 10 cubits in diameter and containing 3,000 +baths[201] of water, used for the lustrations of the priests[202]. +Besides this there were ten other vases, 4 cubits in diameter, five on +either hand, each containing 40 baths[203]; these were used in washing +the burnt-offerings[204]. The effect of these works was to change +entirely the appearance of the Moriah of Abraham and David; but the +threshing-floor of Araunah, which had sustained the original altar, was +handed down to posterity by the succession of events which identified +the spot, and the indelible traces of antiquity, yet to be found there. + +As Solomon had built in the Temple enclosure houses for the +Levites[205], besides the laver and altar of burnt-offering; it was +necessary for him to construct conduits and cisterns to bring, to keep, +and to carry off water for the religious ceremonies and the various +purposes of daily life, as well as to remove the blood of the victims +and other refuse. On this point the Bible is silent, but we can easily +see that there were not any sources of drinkable water in the Temple and +its vicinity, or indeed in the neighbourhood of Jerusalem; and that the +rain-water alone could not be depended upon for a supply sufficient for +the wants of the place; we may therefore assert with confidence that +Solomon must have made great works to bring water from distant sources, +as from Etham (Eccl. ii. 6), where an abundant quantity could always be +obtained; with cisterns to keep it, and conduits attached to convey it +to different parts of the platform of the Sanctuary. + +We are told that the victims were slain on the north, the blood +sprinkled about the altar, and the refuse cast away towards the east, in +the 'place of the ashes[206],' and the Priest's chambers built on the +north side of the altar of burnt-offerings[207]. Hence it follows that +drains must have existed at the altar of burnt-offerings, on the +north-side, and at the 'place of the ashes.' That these and many other +things were constructed by Solomon, we shall presently see from my +investigations in the _Haram-es-Sherîf_; I have now only alluded to the +account given in the Bible of the ground-plan of the building, in order +to be more easily understood in describing them. + +Although the Temple was sacked in the reign of Rehoboam by Shishak king +of Egypt[208], and under Amaziah by Joash king of Israel[209], and +repaired by Joash king of Judah[210], it did not undergo any material +change up to the time of its destruction by the Chaldeans. It was set on +fire by order of Nebuchadnezzar, with the rest of Jerusalem, and in a +few days became a heap of ruins. So fell the first Temple of the Lord, +rather more than four centuries after its first foundation[211]. This +done, the Chaldeans carried away a part of the people into captivity, +but left the poorer class to cultivate the land; over whom Gedaliah, +their countryman, was set as governor. He fixed his residence at +Mizpah[212], the abode of Jeremiah, and under his good rule the number +of inhabitants rapidly increased, the fugitives returned from all +quarters, tranquillity and order were established, and the people began +to devote themselves to the vintage and the harvest of summer-fruits[213]; +but before long a traitor, Ishmael, overthrew the hopes of this remnant of +Judah by the murder of Gedaliah[214], after which the greater part of +them, fearing the anger of the king of Babylon, migrated into Egypt, and +settled in the land of Tahpanhes[215], five years after the destruction of +Jerusalem. From these facts, derived from the Bible, it is evident that +the country was never wholly cleared of its inhabitants during the +captivity; and that, as Jeremiah mourned for five years over the ruins of +the city, so might many others follow his example during successive years; +so that the recollection, not only of the site of the Temple, but of its +very details, would be preserved, together with the traces of the ancient +threshing-floor of Araunah, and the cisterns, which must have escaped the +flames. + +Cyrus ascended the throne of Persia B.C. 536, and in the first year of +his reign allowed the Jews to return to Palestine and rebuild the +Temple[216]; fifty-two years after the destruction of the city, and +sixty-three after the exile of King Jehoiakim[217], a numerous band, +headed by Zerubbabel and Joshua, set out for Judæa, and arrived there +after a journey of four months[218]. The next year, B.C. 535, in the +second month, Zerubbabel began to rebuild the Temple, and the new walls +rose among the joyful shouts of the young men, who saw them for the +first time, and the tears of the old, who remembered the greater glories +of the former House[219]. Hence we see that persons, worthy of credit, +who had seen the first Temple, were alive when the second was built; and +therefore cannot but believe that it stood on its ancient foundations. +The Samaritans, ever the rivals of the Jews, wished to share in this +work; and when their offers were rejected, harassed the workmen and +interrupted its progress, until, at last, by sending exaggerated and +false reports to the King, they obtained an order suspending it[220]. +After a lapse of fifteen years, in the second year of Darius, +Zerubbabel[221], instigated by Haggai, re-commenced the building; which +was finished and solemnly inaugurated[222], in the sixth year of Darius +B.C. 517, on the third day of the month _Adar_ (February-March). We do +not find any description of the dimensions and appearance of +Zerubbabel's Temple: according to the decree of Cyrus[223], it was to be +sixty cubits broad and as many high; but these dimensions cannot be +relied on, because we are told that the new edifice was not in any +respect equal to the former[224]. It was visited by Alexander the Great +B.C. 332; and if we can credit Hecatæus of Abdera, a contemporary of the +conqueror, it differed considerably in style and size from Solomon's +Temple; the dimensions of the enclosure in which it stood were six +plethra (606 feet) long and 100 cubits wide; the great altar of +burnt-offerings was built of large white unpolished stones, being 20 +cubits square and 12 high. According to the assertion of Herod the +Great, quoted by Josephus[225], the second House was not so high as the +first. + +Antiochus Epiphanes entered Jerusalem B.C. 170, and after killing many +of the Jews and plundering the Temple, withdrew to Antioch. After two +years he returned, persecuted the people more barbarously than ever, and +profaned the House of the Lord, despoiling it of all that had been left +on the former occasion. He built a fortress in the lower city in a +commanding position, and placed therein a Macedonian garrison to harass +all who went to pray at the Holy Place[226]; still the form of the +Temple and its enclosure remained unaltered during this calamitous +period. + +Never have more glorious deeds been done by any nation than by the Jews +under the rule of the Maccabees, men ever ready to die rather than break +the laws of their God and country. The Temple was recovered and cleansed +from pollution; the sacred things, which had been carried away by the +Syrians, were recaptured; the altar of burnt-offerings, having been +defiled by heathen sacrifices, was destroyed and a new one erected[227]; +the walls surrounding the Temple, which had been pulled down by +Antiochus Eupator, were rebuilt by Jonathan, and strengthened by +towers[228]; the neighbouring fortress on the hill Acra was captured by +Simon, the Macedonian garrison expelled, and the building razed. The +hill itself was levelled, so that it no longer commanded the Temple: +three years of incessant labour, night and day, being spent on the work. +He afterwards fortified Moriah, and built his house upon it[229], +probably on the site at the north-west corner, where his successors +built the castle Baris[230]. In this dwelt Aristobulus, son of Hyrcanus, +by whose orders his brother Antigonus was murdered, at a place in an +underground passage, leading to the castle, called Strato's Tower[231]. +I shall return to this again, as I think that I have discovered it, or +at least been the first to identify it. + +At the time of Pompeius the Great the Temple was joined to the city by a +bridge, which was destroyed by the followers of Aristobulus, as they +retreated within the sacred walls, and prepared to defend themselves +against their assailants, who had called the Roman forces to their aid. +On the north it was protected by high towers and a deep ditch, excavated +with great pains in a valley; and on the west by precipices, which could +not be scaled when the bridge was broken down[232]. The Roman conqueror +entered the sanctuary, but respected its treasures, and permitted the +Jews to carry on their worship without interruption. Crassus, on the +contrary, though only passing through Jerusalem, did not imitate the +moderation of Pompeius, but despoiled it of its treasures and sacred +vessels. The last calamity that befell it was when some of the cloisters +were burnt, during the siege by Herod the Great[233]. + +Of all the great works executed by this King, the most important for +several reasons was the Temple of Jerusalem. In the eighteenth year of +his reign he convoked a national assembly, and set before them the +necessity of rebuilding it, giving as his chief reason that, at the time +of its restoration by Zerubbabel, it had not been made of the proper +dimensions or on the right plan. No doubt a house, raised five centuries +before, by a poor colony, with funds supplied by the King of Persia, +must have had a paltry appearance, contrasted with the magnificent +buildings erected by Herod in the highest style of Grecian art. The Jews +hesitated to consent to his scheme, fearing that after he had +demolished the old Temple, he might be unable or unwilling to finish the +new. He reassured them by promising not to begin to pull it down, until +he had collected all the materials required for so great an undertaking. +He kept his word; two years were spent in preparation[234]; the +sanctuary itself was completed in eighteen months, and the courts and +their cloisters in eight years; but the works in the outer buildings +were carried on for a much longer time[235]. This wonderful pile rose +upon the summit of Moriah, now enlarged by the labours of many +centuries, and surrounded by solid walls and deep valleys, more like an +impregnable fortress than a house of prayer; therefore the Apostles, +beholding with wonder the huge blocks of stone, bound with clamps of +lead and iron into a mass as firm as the rock itself, said one day to +our Saviour, "Master, see what manner of stones and what buildings are +here!" The truth of His reply may still be seen at the place +itself[236]. + +I must now describe the ground-plan of the Temple sufficiently to enable +my readers to understand my investigations; referring those who are +desirous of entering more minutely into the subject, to the two accounts +of Josephus[237], and the description of Munk, to which I am greatly +indebted[238]. The area, enclosed by the outer wall, (called in the +Mischna 'the Temple Hill,') was a square of 500 cubits, or, according to +Josephus[239], of one stadium. This was divided into a series of +platforms, rising one above the other, and the Sanctuary was situated +rather nearer to the north-west corner, on the highest ground. This +arrangement produced a magnificent effect, and rendered the building +visible from every part of the city[240]. In the outer wall were several +gates; five, according to the Mischna[241], two on the south, and one on +each of the other sides; but in Josephus[242] it is stated that there +were four on the west alone, the numbers on the other sides not being +mentioned. Cloisters were built round the wall on the inside, those on +the east, north, and west were double, being supported by three rows of +columns, and thirty cubits wide; that on the south, called the 'Royal +Cloister,' was triple, and supported by four rows of columns[243]. The +Temple-market was held in this court; for all, even foreigners, were +allowed to enter it; hence it has been called by modern authors the +'Court of the Gentiles[244].' It was bounded on the inside by a stone +balustrade, in which columns were placed at certain intervals, bearing +inscriptions forbidding the Gentiles to pass them. In this fence, +according to the Mischna, were thirteen gateways from which fourteen +steps (each half a cubit in height and breadth) led up to a platform +ten cubits wide, called by the Mischna, _Hêl_ (before the wall), above +which rose the wall enclosing the sacred precincts. This was 25 cubits +high, and had nine gates, four to the north, four to the south, and one +to the east; these were approached by five steps; consequently the +enclosure was higher than the _Hêl_. It was divided into two courts, one +on the east, another on the west. The eastern gate led into a court, 135 +cubits square, devoted to the women, and called after them _Azarath +naschîm_ (court of the women). This was divided from the western court +by a wall, in the middle of which, opposite to the entrance into the +women's court, was 'Nicanor's Gate[245],' approached by five steps +circular in form; the western court was therefore raised above the +eastern. It surrounded the Sanctuary, and was 135 cubits from north to +south, and 187 from east to west. The wall on the inside was surrounded +by columns; and on the north, east and south were a number of chambers, +devoted to various purposes, among which was the Hall of the Sanhedrim, +_Lischcath Hagazîth_. This court was divided by a balustrade, 11 cubits +from the east end, in the middle of which were three flights of +steps[246], from which the Priests blessed the people. The part devoted +to the men (135 cubits from north to south, and 11 from east to west) +was called the 'Court of the Israelites,' _Azarath Yisrael_: the other, +the 'Court of the Priests,' _Azarath Cohanîm_. + +The Temple itself was 100 cubits in length, and as many in height; its +east front was formed by a vestibule, 100 cubits wide, measuring from +east to west 11 cubits, according to the Mischna, and 20 according to +Josephus. The rest of the building was 60 cubits wide (according to the +Mischna 70), therefore the vestibule projected 20 (or 15) cubits on each +side; twelve steps led up to the open door of the vestibule, which was +25 cubits wide. The _Hechal_, or Holy Place, was 20 cubits wide and 43 +long, and was divided from the Holy of Holies (20 cubits square) by a +curtain. The sacred things were arranged as in Solomon's Temple. The +bronze laver stood in the Priests' court, south-east of the Sanctuary; a +certain Ben Katîn made twelve outlets for water in it, so that the same +number of Priests could purify themselves at the same time; he also +contrived a machine to bring the water into it from a well[247]. In the +middle of the court opposite the entrance of the Temple, north-east of +the laver, was the altar of burnt-offerings, made of unhewn stones, as +ordered by the law of Moses[248]. According to Josephus it was 50 cubits +square and 15 high, terminated at each corner by a kind of horn, and +approached by a gentle slope on the south side. The Rabbins say that it +rose in steps, the base being 32 cubits square[249], and that at the +south-east corner was a conduit, draining off the blood into the torrent +Kidron. North of the altar were marble tables to receive the flesh of +the victims[250]. In the Holy Place, the table of shewbread stood on the +north, the seven-branched candlestick on the south, and between them the +altar of incense; all made of gold. The Holy of Holies was empty, since +there was no ark in the second Temple, as it was lost when the first was +destroyed. According to a tradition, it had been hidden for security by +the prophet Jeremiah in a cave on Mount Nebo, which could not afterwards +be found[251]. A stone, about 2 inches high, called by the Rabbins +_Schethiyya_ (foundation), occupied its place, on which the High Priest +placed the censer on the day of Atonement[252]. + +Herod did not restrict his liberality to the Temple alone, but executed +some other great works in the same part of the city. He extended the +sacred enclosure on the north[253], strengthened its fortifications, +restored the ancient tower Baris[254], built by the Asmonean princes at +the north-west corner of the Temple, and called it Antonia, after his +patron, Marcus Antonius. As altered by him it was a square[255], half a +stadium each way; so that the whole perimeter of it and the Temple +together was six stadia. The outer wall enclosed a palace and four +towers, one at each angle; three of them 50 cubits high, and the fourth, +at the south-east corner, nearest the Temple, 70; from its summit the +Roman sentinel could see what was going on in the several courts[256]. +The fortress was joined by a subterranean passage to a tower near the +east gate of the Temple, so that in case of a popular tumult the king +could easily escape into the Antonia[257]. At the present day, a plot of +levelled ground, a rocky knoll on the north of the _Haram-es-Sherîf_, +and a few shapeless fragments of masonry, are all that remain of the +splendid buildings of Herod. + +All the buildings connected with Herod's Temple were finished at the +time of our Saviour's ministry[258]. He frequently taught in its courts, +and twice expelled those who profaned them with merchandise. He +prophesied the destruction of the place; and in its citadel His +sufferings commenced; for the Prætorium of Pilate was in the tower +Antonia, which was the residence of the Roman Governor and his +garrison[259]. There the sentence was proclaimed to the infuriated +people, who called down on their own heads the curse of the innocent +blood; in a few years so terribly avenged. + +The description of Josephus, who was an eye-witness of the scene, has +been followed by all who have written on the siege and fall of +Jerusalem; it bears every mark of truth; and I shall give a brief sketch +of the part relating to the Temple and its environs, in order that the +account of my researches on the spot may be more intelligible to the +reader. On the first day of the month Thammuz (June-July) the Romans +assaulted the tower Antonia[260] and made a breach in the wall; but were +surprised to find that a second had been built up behind it. This was +carried on the fifth of the same month, and the Jews were driven within +the walls of the Temple courts. The greater part of the fortress was +razed during the next seven days, and the assailants erected mounds for +their engines on the space thus cleared, and battered the walls of the +Temple. Meanwhile the Jews burnt the north-west cloister, fearing that +it would open a communication with the main building for the Romans, who +themselves burnt the north cloister on the twenty-fourth day. This was +in no way opposed by the Jews, who considered that their position was +improved by the destruction of the cloister, and on the twenty-seventh, +by a feigned retreat, they decoyed a number of the Romans on to the roof +of the west cloister, and then fired a quantity of combustible material, +which had been previously heaped up below; so that numbers of their +enemies perished in the flames. The Romans having battered the west wall +of the inner inclosure during six days, and tried in vain to undermine +the north gate, were ordered to carry the cloisters by escalade. On the +eighth day of the month _Ab_ (July-August) they mounted the ladders +without opposition, but when they had arrived on the roof, they were +fiercely assailed by the Jews, and driven back with the loss of some +standards. Titus, seeing that the attempt had failed, set the gates on +fire; these were quickly destroyed, and the flames spread to the +cloisters in both directions. The fire continued till the next day, when +Titus, wishing to open a passage to the Temple for his troops, and to +save the building itself, if possible, ordered it to be extinguished. +During this day the Jews remained quiet; but on the morrow they renewed +the attack, determined either to drive the Romans from the Sanctuary, or +to perish beneath its ruins. By a sortie from the east gate they forced +back the enemy; but Titus, seeing from the Antonia the retreat of his +soldiers, went to their aid, and at last, about the fifth hour, the Jews +were again driven within the walls. He determined to wait and collect +his forces before making the assault; but this was a fatal day, being +the anniversary of the destruction of Solomon's Temple by the +Babylonians, six centuries and a half before[261]. The Jews made another +sortie upon the Romans, who were occupied in extinguishing the flames in +the inner inclosure, and were forced back as far as the buildings in the +neighbourhood of the House itself; these were set on fire by a Roman +soldier without orders, and the flames quickly spread to all the +chambers. Titus, in vain, commanded his troops to extinguish them; his +voice was drowned in the tumult; the Jews, with loud shrieks, fought +furiously in defence of the last bulwark of their nationality; but it +was now too late; the sacred building was in a blaze, and its obstinate +and heroic defenders perished beneath the ruins. After the Temple had +fallen, Titus tried to induce John and Simon, who had retreated into the +Upper city, to submit, and a parley was held at the bridge by the +Xystus[262]. These proud and blood-thirsty tyrants would not hearken to +him; the siege was carried on, and before long the whole upper city was +in his power. He ordered the Temple and the rest of Jerusalem to be +levelled with the ground, leaving only some of the western +fortifications to mark its former magnificence[263]. Thus ended the +political existence of the Jewish race. + +The Christians came back from Pella to Jerusalem soon after its +destruction, and some of the Jews returned there to mourn over its +sacred ashes; so that the place was not wholly deserted even in the +darkest days of Trajan's persecution. Therefore tradition, as well as +the heaps of ruins, pointed out the site of the Sanctuary to Hadrian, +when, in order to humiliate the Jews and extinguish every hope of its +restoration, he built thereupon a temple to Jupiter Capitolinus. + +When the idol temples were destroyed by Constantine the Great A.D. 332, +this too was demolished; but he took no care of Moriah, and allowed two +statues of Hadrian to remain there; neither did he attempt to clear it +of ruins, nor prevent its becoming a receptacle for rubbish; as if he +wished every trace of the departed glory of the nation to disappear. +However, the wretched descendants of David visited the place in +solitude, to anoint with oil and bedew with tears the 'perforated +stone,' which they considered a relic of their Sanctuary[264]. + +The accession of Julian the Apostate renewed the hopes of the Jews. +Wishing to prove the words of Scripture[265] false, he determined to +rebuild the Temple; and supplied the necessary funds, giving the +business in charge to Alypius of Antioch, Governor of Great Britain. The +Jews came in crowds to take part in the work, but their attempts to lay +the foundations were frustrated by flames, which issued from the +excavations with such peals of thunder, that the workmen fled +affrighted, mistaking in their ignorance a natural phenomenon for a +miracle[266]. + +The Emperor Justinian was the first to begin to clear away some of the +ruins from Moriah, A.D. 527. He endeavoured to identify the places +mentioned in the Gospels, and ordered a basilica to be erected on the +south side dedicated to the Presentation of the Virgin, not far from the +site of the Temple[267]. Some buildings were also constructed on the +north side, and perhaps on the east, as I will presently shew. + +The Mohammedans, commanded by Khaled and Abu Obeida, besieged the Holy +City, A.D. 636. The Patriarch Sophronius capitulated to Omar himself, +and the new master of the place converted the basilica of Justinian into +a mosque (_Aksa_); purified the sacred rock (_Sakharah_), the ancient +threshing-floor of Araunah[268], and ordered a mosque to be built over +it, which was commenced A.D. 643. William of Tyre reports that in his +time Arabic inscriptions existed in the building, mentioning the date of +the foundation, the founder's name, and the cost of the work[269]. +However, from the account of Said-Ebn-Batrik, it appears that the mosque +was afterwards enlarged by Abd-el-Malek-Ibn-Meruan, fifth Khalif of the +race of the Ommiades, who ascended the throne the 65th year of the Hejra +(A.D. 684), and died in the 86th (A.D. 705)[270]. His eldest son, Valid +or Elulid, embellished and enlarged the mosque, enriching it with a dome +of gilded copper, which he took from the church of Baalbek and placed +over the _Sakharah_[271]. The completion of the building must therefore +be attributed to him; although it was from time to time improved by the +Khalifs his successors, being considered second only in sanctity to +Mecca and Medina; so that when, during the Khalifat of Al-Moktadar (Hej. +229 = A.D. 950), the pilgrimages to the former place were interrupted by +the invasions of the Karmali, the _Kubbet-es-Sakharah_ took the place of +the _Kaaba_[272]. It is evident that the present mosque is not in every +respect identical with that built by Omar, from the words of Adamnanus +(an author of the eighth century) in a book on the Holy Places, compiled +from the accounts of Arculf, who had passed nine months at Jerusalem. He +says (speaking of the mosque) "but on that celebrated spot where once +the magnificent Temple stood, near the wall on the east side, the +Saracens have now meanly built with uprights and great beams, a +quadrangular house of prayer over some ruined remains, which they +frequent; it is large enough to contain three thousand men at +once[273]." William of Tyre however asserts that on the building seen by +him (which was different from the one described by Adamnanus), the name +of Omar its founder was inscribed. One of the existing Arabic +inscriptions seems, at first sight, to cause some difficulty; it runs as +follows: "May God render illustrious the great king, son of Meruan, who +enlarged this majestic temple, and grant him mercy." 65th year of the +Hejra (A.D. 684, the first of the reign of Abd-el-Malek[274]). This at +first sight appears to contradict the assertion made above, that Elulid, +son and successor of Abd-el-Malek, was the Khalif who added to the +splendour of the mosque, but it is very likely that if he completed the +work of restoration, he would inscribe not only the name of the first +founder Omar, but also that of his father. In other respects William of +Tyre gives no detailed information, in speaking of the mosque of Omar; +only alluding to it in general terms[275]. During my frequent visits to +the _Haram_, I often thought of copying all the inscriptions, but was +always pressed for time, and afraid that each visit might be the last; +therefore, as the examination of the subterranean vaults was by far the +most important matter, I thought it better not to turn aside to a work, +which others may easily execute by degrees. + +It is evident that the mosque remained in the hands of the Mohammedans +from the commencement of Omar's building, A.D. 643, to the arrival of +the Crusaders, A.D. 1099. These soldiers of Christ, forgetful alike +of charity and mercy, slaughtered numbers of the followers of Islam +in the building[276]: they also converted the mosque _el-Aksa_ +into a dwelling-house, and after altering the interior of the +_Kubbet-es-Sakharah_, consecrated it as a Christian church, on the +third day after Easter, A.D. 1143[277], under the name of Templum +Domini[278]; because the first Temple to the honour of God had been +erected by Solomon on that spot. Saladin, the champion of toleration, +magnanimity, and generosity[279], restored the worship of Islam in the +two mosques, A.D. 1187[280]; and from his time the _Haram-es-Sherîf_ +has remained in the hands of the Mohammedans as one of their holy +places. + +Selim I., Sultan of Constantinople, who conquered Syria and Palestine, +A.D. 1517, restored and improved the two mosques; doubtless the internal +and external mosaic decorations, with the various arabesque ornaments +still existing, are due to his liberality, and that of his successor, +Solyman I., with his favourite Sultana Rossellane; who, according to the +works of authors preserved in the Mohammedan archives, spent large sums +of money in adorning the whole of the _Haram_, and in erecting there +schools and other philanthropic establishments. + +From the above narrative I draw the following conclusions: that history +and an unbroken chain of events prove that the whole _Haram-es-Sherîf_ +is the ancient Mount Moriah; that the present mosque of Omar stands upon +the ancient threshing-floor of Araunah; that the levelled rock on the +north-west, and that rising at the barrack mark the position of the +tower Antonia, and that the mosque _el-Aksa_ is the original basilica of +Justinian. + +Let us now proceed to a detailed examination of the whole area, within +and without, pausing at each object, which, either from its antiquity or +other causes, seems to merit special attention. The barrack, which, +according to ancient tradition, stands on the site of the Prætorium, +touches the western part of the north side of the wall enclosing +Moriah[281]; east of the barrack are buildings of the period of the +Crusades, or not much later; and near the north-east angle of the wall +the Pool of Bethesda[282]. Before proceeding to examine these places, we +must notice some objects in their immediate neighbourhood, which are +worthy of the most careful attention. + +The Society of the Daughters of Sion bought (November, 1857) a plot of +land a few yards to the north-west of the barrack[283], on which stands +the north pier of the arch of the 'Ecce Homo[284];' and requested me to +survey it. In December, after removing with considerable difficulty the +accumulated rubbish of centuries, I came upon a small arch, close to the +larger one, which from its style, masonry, and materials, evidently was +part of the same building. I at once tried to examine the south side, +belonging to the Kusbeck dervishes, but as in this place excavations +were impossible, I was obliged to restrict myself to what appeared above +ground; and found, in the line of the large arch, a fragment of an +ancient wall, which from its form and position seemed to have belonged +to a pier supporting an arch corresponding to the one I had discovered. +Both the arches are semicircular, with a single archivolt composed of a +narrow fillet, a wide ogee moulding, and a band of the same breadth, +supported by a cornice, formed by two fillets, separated by an ogee +moulding. In the west face of the north pier is a semicircular recessed +niche, above a projecting cornice of the same width and pattern as the +one just described. Early in the year 1860 I took charge of the already +commenced buildings of the new convent of the Daughters of Sion, which +abut upon the arch mentioned above; and consequently had an opportunity +of examining the foundations of the piers, and convincing myself that +both their materials and masonry are of the Roman period; because the +blocks of stone, being neither rusticated nor clamped with iron or lead, +are not earlier than the time of Hadrian, and are not sufficiently +finished for so late an age as that of Constantine or Justinian. Some +think that the large arch was built before the capture of Jerusalem by +Titus; but how in that case could it have escaped the general +destruction of the city, and especially of the adjoining tower Antonia, +of which it was actually a part, in the opinion of those who believe +that from it our Lord was shewn to the people? But would the Romans, who +razed the tower and reduced the Temple and whole city to ruins, have +spared this insignificant building; or would the fire have left its +architectural features uninjured? The conformation of the ground itself +shews us that the arch could not have been standing at that time; +because, in its present position, there was then a valley or ditch, +separating Moriah from Bezetha. I found the rock, supporting the piers, +18 feet below the surface (as I have before stated), and to the north +and south are vaulted cisterns excavated in it, in the natural slopes of +Bezetha on one side and Moriah on the other. It is therefore highly +improbable that an arch would have been built in such a position with +reference to the fortress. + +My predecessor had laid the foundations of the east wall of the convent, +but being ill acquainted with the nature of the ground at Jerusalem, he +discovered too late that they rested, especially on the north-east, on +unsolid ground, namely, on the vaulted roof of a subterranean building, +and as the walls rose they began to crack. Some of the masons were just +aware of the existence of the vault when I came; but no one had entered, +or measured it, or examined its whole length, so that I was the first to +do this and determine its age. In order to build a buttress at the +north-east corner, and at the same time to lay new foundations in a +small plot of land on the north, I was obliged to dig a hole, 18 feet +deep, below the level of the street, which rises towards Bezetha: and on +the 3rd of June came upon a layer of large slabs, each 4 or 5 feet long, +3 or 4 wide, and 9 or 10 inches thick. On removing two of these I found +a square hole, through which I entered, or rather fell, into the vault I +was looking for, but the intense heat and foul air compelled me to beat +a hasty retreat, and have the aperture enlarged to permit the air to +circulate more freely. Meanwhile I continued excavating a little to the +north, and met with the wall bounding the vault on that side, and found, +4-1/2 feet below its top, (measured from the outer surface,) the +original entrance; by which I obtained easy access for myself and +afterwards for many others. + +The end of the east side of this gallery is just at the south-east angle +of the building on the north, separated from the body of the convent by +a small level street; and it terminates at the north-west angle of the +_Haram-es-Sherîf_; the floor throughout the whole length slopes slightly +and is formed in the rock: though the place was partly filled with earth +at the north end, and with filthy stinking mud at the south, I +thoroughly examined it and made a plan and elevation. At the entrance a +stone staircase, with steps about 2-1/2 feet wide, afforded an easy +descent; but unfortunately I was obliged to mutilate this, in order to +construct a pier to sustain the weight of the north-east corner of the +building above. The side walls are founded on the rock, which appears +above the level of the floor, at a distance of 69 feet from the +entrance, and gradually rises in them up to the southern extremity. They +are built of squared blocks, generally 3-1/2 feet long, and from above 2 +to 3 high, perfectly fitted together. The semicircular vaulting is +admirable, being formed of oblong stones, 2-1/2 feet long, and 8 inches +high. Its exact regularity is its most striking feature. + +I consider that this gallery was remodelled during the Roman period, +because some holes in it to admit the water are no part of the original +design. In the east wall is a semicircular arched door, built up, whose +width and height shew that it was formerly the entrance of a passage. +Along the side walls are semicircular headed apertures, which, together +with the two openings of the same shape, opposite one to another, near +the south end, are also no part of the original design. These two are +the beginnings of conduits, one of which ran eastward down to the Pool +of Bethesda; the other westward, into the Tyropoeon valley. The +accumulated water and filth did not allow me to make a close +examination of these, but, as far as I could see at the openings, the +masonry and shape of the stones led me to think that they formed part of +a Roman restoration. A short distance from these the gallery is closed +by a wall, entirely of Arab work; but I made a temporary opening in it, +and was able to continue my examination as far as the _Haram-es-Sherîf_; +the ground of which is about 8 feet above the top of the vault. The +quantity of water, earth, and filth, prevented my approaching the rock +at the end, and ascertaining the means of communication with the surface +at the _Haram_, but as I saw that the south-east corner was built up, I +have no doubt there had been access at that point. It immediately +occurred to me that the vault had originally been a passage between +Bezetha and Moriah, and was the 'Strato's Tower,' where Antigonus, +younger brother of Aristobulus, (the sons of John Hyrcanus,) was +murdered by the treacherous devices of the Queen Alexandra[285]. + +After completing the examination of the interior I applied myself to the +exterior, and found that the side walls rose one foot above the top of +the vault; the space thus made being filled with strong masonry, so as +to form a level surface of the same size as the gallery; which was +covered over along the whole length by large slabs, of the size +mentioned above; these, being firmly cemented together, bound into one +mass the two side walls and the vaulting. + +At the same time, during the progress of the excavation another +interesting discovery was made, namely, the arched opening of a sewer, +3-1/2 feet wide and 4 feet high, by the side of the entrance to the +gallery on the east. It was choked up with dirt, but appeared to come +from the north, and ran along the east side of the vault of the gallery +as far as the middle of the Via Dolorosa, where it turned to the east. +Afterwards upon making further examinations I discovered that it bent +again towards the south, opposite to S. Ann's church, and came out on +the north side of the Pool of Bethesda. I followed it down for 112 feet +from the entrance, and found that after 22 feet the vaulting gave place +to a covering of large slabs. The floor rested upon made ground, and was +also formed of large slabs, strongly cemented together. I was unable to +continue my expedition by reason of the filth it contained, in which I +had a disgusting bath through a fall, caused by a sudden change of level +in the downward course of the sewer: so to make sure of its direction, +by the permission of the Pasha, I excavated in the middle of the Via +Dolorosa, opposite to the projecting north-east angle of the barrack, +and over against the tower commonly called the Antonia; and so verified +what I have already stated, and ascertained with greater certainty that +it rested upon made ground; another proof of the existence of a valley +in this part of the city. The sewer was made centuries after the first +construction of the gallery. + +I have however not yet exhausted the objects of interest afforded by the +property of the convent of the Daughters of Sion. On continuing the +excavation to the north in order to lay new foundations, at a depth of +36 feet below the street, water was met with in abundance. At first I +supposed it had filtered through from some cistern, but as it did not +increase or diminish, I had the excavation deepened and enlarged, and +then discovered, to the north of the water, a perpendicular face of hewn +rock; and on digging deeper a small conduit cut in it, through which the +water ran from north to south. I was anxious to follow it in these +directions, but was prevented by the depth of the soil, the houses in +the neighbourhood, and above all by the customs of the country, and so +was obliged to restrict my researches to that spot, and even there the +owner did not allow me to do much, fearing to attract the attention of +the Mohammedans. I ascertained however that this water did not enter the +gallery, because after drawing off all that was found there, no more +appeared beyond what drained from the street after rain, while the +stream flowed continuously southward, yielding a constant supply for +building purposes. During the first three days its water was muddy and +brackish, but afterwards it gradually became clearer, but always had a +disagreeable taste and contained the same ingredients as that at the +springs of the _Hammam-es-Shefa_ and at the fountain of the Virgin in +the Kidron valley. From the day of its discovery (June 12, 1860), to the +end of January, 1861, it yielded a daily supply of from 200 to 250 +gallons without any diminution, and was not affected by the fall of rain +or snow. At this time I resigned the charge of the works to a +master-mason, as all the difficulties had been overcome, but I am told +that the water continued to flow, and has done so abundantly up to the +present date (April, 1863). From several investigations which I will +mention in the chapter on the waters, I infer that this stream enters +the well of the _Hammam-es-Shefa_[286]. + +My plan and sections shew all the ancient cisterns, both excavated and +built, which occur in this small compass, and some remains of masonry +either of the age of the Crusades or of Arab work. This spot is an +excellent example of the great and frequent changes that the ground of +Jerusalem has undergone, and shews the difficulty that all have to +encounter, who attempt to form an opinion without taking them into +account. + +Let us now examine the north side of the _Haram_. I have already +mentioned the depth of the foundations of the north walls of the +barrack[287]; but on the south the masonry rests upon the bare rock, +which here rises 35 feet above the level of the _Haram-es-Sherîf_ as is +shewn in the drawing[288]; its north face being 55 feet above the bottom +of the valley. Hence I cannot admit the common tradition that the +barrack stands on the site of the Antonia, but consider that the rock +above named is the true position of the _north_ side of the ancient +tower. This opinion, I think, is in accordance with all that Josephus +says of its height and situation, divided from Bezetha by a valley and +ditches[289]. If its southern side had coincided with that of the +barrack (which the height of the rock mentioned above entitles us to +assume), I cannot understand why it was built in so bad a position, +where it would be completely commanded by Bezetha, and from which it +could not have been separated by any work of defence. Besides, where are +we then to place the pool Struthium[290]? We must remember that the +shape of the Antonia was a square, each side being half a stadium; it +must therefore have extended to the north right across the valley. Now +if it had stood in this position, Titus would not have been obliged to +batter its walls with engines, and to throw up banks to support them and +to enable his troops to make the assault; because he could have poured +upon it such a storm of stones and combustibles from the summit of +Bezetha, that the garrison would have been obliged to evacuate so +untenable a post. Moreover, Josephus states, that the perimeter of the +Temple and the Antonia together was 6 stadia[291]. Now according to +every estimate of this measure, this condition cannot be satisfied +unless the latter is placed _within_ the north-west angle of the +_Haram_, as the description in Josephus seems to require[292]. We are +also told that it was razed by Titus; the place which I assign still +bears traces of this; and as a still stronger proof, there remains, in +the middle of the rock that has been thus levelled, a fragment of the +ancient Herodian wall; which I believe to have formed the south-east +corner of the inner buildings of the tower, i.e. of the Prætorium. On +the west is the house belonging to the Pasha, governor of Jerusalem, and +there I have seen, by means of excavations, the rock in the foundations +and, resting against it, the earth which conceals the valley filled up +by the Asmoneans. Lastly, there is a vault, which starts from the +position I assign to the Antonia and goes towards the present Golden +Gate. This I discovered by descending into two cisterns on the north of +the _Haram_, and by the fall of the west portion of an old wall, near +the north-west corner of the above gate, which, being washed away by the +rain, exposed the other end. I was not able to pass along its whole +extent, as it was nearly filled up by rubbish, but by examining the two +extremities at these places, I convinced myself that they belonged to a +continuous building. It is partly excavated in the rock, which however +sinks on approaching the east. The masonry of the side walls and +vaulting resembles that in the gallery below the convent of the +Daughters of Sion. The floor is also paved throughout the whole length, +as far as I saw. Josephus[293] mentions that a subterranean +communication existed between the Antonia and the east gate of the +Temple; consequently for this and the other preceding reasons I firmly +believe that I have placed the tower in the true position. I believe +then that the barrack stands in the valley; that is, upon the ancient +position of the Pool Struthium, which has been filled up, by the +materials cast into it by order of Titus, in making the bank to support +the Roman battering train, and by the ruins of the Antonia itself. Had +the tower occupied this position, the only side properly defended would +have been that towards the Temple, by the high face of rock, which in +that case ought to shew traces of having been hewn away towards the +north. What purpose could my 'Strato's tower' have then served, if it +had passed through the basement of the Antonia? It would have been +useless as a communication, because the tower itself would have done as +well, and it is too deep in the ground and too small for a work of +defence. + +The buildings on the east of the barrack, between it and the first +passage leading up to the Temple, may belong either to the age of +Saladin or of Solyman I.; the Arabs attribute them to the latter. They +have been greatly altered within and without, and therefore do not +present any distinctive features. Their foundations rest upon the rock, +which on the south side is one or two feet below the level of the +_Haram_, but on the north from 14 to 18 feet lower down, being at the +bottom of the valley which I have already mentioned. + +On the left of the passage going up to the _Haram_ is a bath now +disused, inside the buildings. During my examination of it I discovered +the eastern conduit, which starts from inside the gallery. Its course +from this place to the pool of Bethesda cannot be followed, as it is +stopped up by rubbish; it is vaulted but not founded upon the rock. + +Facing the little passage mentioned above, on the north, are the remains +of an ancient building[294], commonly called a bastion of the tower +Antonia. It rests upon the rock, and is doubtless of considerable +antiquity, but certainly not Jewish work. The stones composing it are +small and bevelled at the edges, so that the part projecting from the +wall is like a thin slice cut horizontally from a pyramid: they are laid +with mortar, and do not appear to belong to an age remarkable for the +splendour of its work. This place is about a stadium from the north-west +angle of the _Haram_, and therefore, besides being in too low a +situation, cannot have been included in the tower Antonia, if we accept +the dimensions of the fortress given us by Josephus. + +The north side is terminated on the east by the Pool of Bethesda[295]. +This, I believe, was made by Herod the Great, at the same time as the +Antonia, from the valley or ditch defending the north side of the +Temple. It has obviously undergone great alterations and greater +injuries. Porticoes were built upon its south wall by Solyman I.; on +the others are Arab houses in the meanest style, most of which are now +in ruins. It is nearly filled with soil and rubbish, which are covered +with creepers and shrubs. By this time it would probably have been quite +full, if I had not preserved it[296]. At its west end are two arches, +almost choked up with earth, and overgrown by vegetation. I forced my +way into them, and saw two more arches, built of small stones, and +obviously of Arab work; the northern of these was the termination of the +eastern conduit from the great gallery. With much difficulty I traversed +it for a distance of 72 feet, and found it vaulted in the same way as +the one I have described below the bath. Tradition asserts this place to +be the Pool of Bethesda, at which our Saviour healed a paralytic[297]. I +shall notice it again, in describing the various works connected with +the supply of water to the city. + +In both faces of the north-east angle of the _Haram_ wall are several +courses of ancient stones, rusticated, which prove that in former times +this was also the corner of the sacred enclosure. + +After passing the Gate of S. Mary and leaving on the left the ruins of a +small Saracenic building of the age of Saladin, the Mohammedan cemetery +is reached, which occupies almost the whole of the high narrow plateau +running parallel to the east wall of the _Haram_, above the Kidron +valley. I consider the foundation of the whole line of wall, from the +north-east to the south-east corner, to be the work of Solomon; being +led to this conclusion by a series of observations, carried on when +graves were dug against the wall, and by excavations which I made with +the help of the keepers of the cemetery, wherever I could do it without +exciting suspicion and arousing the fanaticism of the Mohammedans. + +Near the south-east corner is a stone, which appears to have been the +impost of an arch; as there are no tombs in this part, I made an +excavation opposite to it, at a distance of 12 feet, and, after digging +down for 14 feet, came upon the great foundation stones. By opening +another hole along the same line, nearer to the corner, I found them +again at a depth of 12 feet; the difference being caused by the slope of +the ground. By this means I convinced myself that the foundations of the +wall were laid far down in the valley (as stated by Josephus), and that +they rose up to the place, where it still appears above the surface of +the ground, in a series of steps about 2 feet wide. The foundation +(strictly speaking) is made of large blocks, roughly squared, and not +rusticated, fastened together by a tenon left projecting from the face +of one stone, fitting into a corresponding mortise in the next: there is +not a trace of iron or lead or mortar; but where the wall rises above +ground its face is vertical, the blocks are more carefully squared, and +rustic work is used, with wide and deep grooves; as may be seen at many +places in the lower part of the present wall[298]. The force of the +flames, the vandalism of man, and the course of time, have produced no +effect upon these massive buildings; which have been saved from the fate +of those on Sion and Ophel, by the ruins heaped about them, and still +more by the reverence paid by the Mohammedans to the ground on which +they stand. + +These valuable remains enable us to compare their masonry with the +Herodian work, seen more especially in the projecting wall at the +north-east angle[299], and at the south-east extremity. The stones in +these two places are of large size[300] and rusticated; only the grooves +here are small, and the whole surface of the block is well smoothed; +they also are perfectly fitted together without mortar, but clamps of +iron or soldering plugs of lead are used; as I was able to ascertain +when a small part was repaired: each course stands a little more than a +tenth of an inch farther back than the one below it. The general +appearance of the work manifests a progress in art and a delicacy of +execution, which could not have been produced in the time of Solomon, +even with Phoenician aid. In all the countries formerly occupied by +this people there are not any examples of a wall in this style, while +those resembling the architecture of Solomon are far from uncommon. We +might reasonably suppose that Herod would increase the strength of the +northern corner, as an outwork to the Antonia on the east; while the +south-east corner might have been destroyed by the Chaldeans, being +weaker than the rest owing to the existence of the great vaulted cistern +within the _Haram_; and, as Nehemiah was no doubt unable to repair it in +a manner befitting its position, Herod would rebuild it in his +restoration of the above-named cistern, whose east and south sides are +not formed by the rock, but by the outer wall of the Temple enclosure, +and are made of great strength to withstand the pressure of the water. + +I have already explained by what marks I distinguish the walls which I +attribute to Nehemiah, the Romans, and the Arabs[301]; examples of each +can be readily found in the eastern wall of the _Haram_. From the side +of a small sepulchral building (containing the ashes of Yacûb Pasha and +his wife) to beyond the Golden Gate the masonry shews many signs of Arab +restorations. Here may be seen columns of verd antique, porphyry and +valuable marbles, built longwise into the thickness of the wall. +Doubtless these formerly decorated some Christian edifices, and were +placed in their present position when the city walls were repaired by +Sultan Solyman. + +The principal object that attracts attention on the east side is the +Golden Gate[302], which projects slightly from the line of the wall. The +two outer doorways, as I have already said, are built up[303]; but for +the sake of description we will for a moment imagine them opened. From +the outside we see two round-headed arches each supported by two +pilasters, built of stones of no great size, which are laid in mortar, +without rustic work, and form a perfectly smooth face, in strong +contrast with the genuine ancient blocks in the lower parts of the walls +on each side, and at each corner. The two arches and their capitals are +richly carved with leaves and other ornaments. The whole building is +cased, except at the base, with Saracenic work of the date of Solyman; +as I infer from the irregular masonry, the smallness of the stones, the +occurrence of a Byzantine capital (out of its proper place) on the top +of the façade, and many other minor ornamental details, bad in taste and +execution, which are characteristic of that age[304]. + +Passing through the entrance, we find the piers and architraves of the +doors composed of immense blocks, six in number, which resemble Jewish +work. Their state of decay shews their antiquity, and they must have +been exposed to the action of fire, being calcined and crumbling; for +otherwise, from their great size and sheltered situation, they ought to +have been in good preservation, like all the rest of the internal +masonry of the gate; which I assign to the age of Justinian. The plan of +the building is an oblong, the length being double the breadth, divided +into two aisles by two large columns of grey veined marble and two +half-columns, which, with the help of small pilasters, projecting +slightly from the lateral walls, sustain the vaulting, composed of very +narrow pointed domes; beneath this a magnificent entablature, carved in +leaf patterns[305], is carried round the walls of the building. The west +façade[306], inside the _Haram_, has a double doorway with round-headed +arches, supported by a central column and two side pilasters. Their form +and ornamentation resemble those on the east front. The outer roof is +also a series of domes, which were built during some repairs about 60 +years since. Not a few authors have attributed the architecture of this +gate to the time of Herod, forgetting that Josephus states that the +Temple and its cloisters were burnt and utterly destroyed by the Roman +troops. How then is it possible that the walls, and still more the +ornamental work, should have survived the fury of the soldiers? If the +east cloister has so entirely disappeared, how is it that the gate, +which stood in the middle of it, has escaped? Those few blocks in the +piers of the door may be of the age of Herod, but not the rest of the +masonry, and we cannot therefore on this evidence assign the whole +building to that period. It is however very probable that they were +found among the ruins of the ancient eastern gate and incorporated in +the present. Nor can we believe that the two large monolithic columns +were brought to Jerusalem by Herod. It is far more likely that they were +sent by Justinian to adorn a spot sacred in Christian tradition as the +place where our Saviour entered Jerusalem, among the shouts of one part +of the populace, to keep that last Passover before he suffered[307]. I +consider therefore that the present Golden Gate stands not only upon the +site of the ancient east gate, but also upon its foundations, for we +find its dimensions given in the Mishna, 'the east gate was 40 cubits +long and 20 wide;' and a strong proof of the truth of this opinion is, +that, on making an excavation near the north door, I discovered at a +depth of 10 feet the foundations, of undoubted Herodian work. At the +same time I saw that there have never been any steps leading up to the +gate, and that a mass of rubbish is heaped against its east front, in +the slopes of which are the graves of the Mohammedan cemetery. + +There is a small doorway closed with masonry a little to the south of +the Golden Gate, and besides this nothing else remains to be noticed on +the east side, except that the whole length of the wall is covered with +creepers, which flourish here luxuriantly and do constant mischief; +breaches are already formed in some places, but the guardians of the +_Haram_ pay no attention to them; though in a few years they will not be +so indifferent to the expense of the repairs, which will then be +absolutely necessary. All the loop-holes were made in the time of +Solyman. + +After the south-east corner has been turned, the whole wall, both in its +foundations and upper part, exhibits the same solid and magnificent +ancient masonry as on the east face. A few yards from the corner is a +doorway with a pointed arch, now walled up, which I consider to have +been made at the time of the Crusades, and possibly then called the Gate +of the Valley of Jehoshaphat. We shall hereafter notice the purpose for +which it was used. A little distance to the west of this, we see three +plain round-headed arches, supported by four pilasters, whose masonry +differs both from the older and newer work in the immediate +neighbourhood. Their general character is Roman, and I believe them to +have been built at the time of Justinian, to communicate with the vaults +within the _Haram_; which I shall presently describe. + +Under the mosque _el-Aksa_ is a gate not only built up, but also partly +buried[308]. The arch is cut in two by the city-wall, which here turns +to the south. Its architectural features both constructive and +decorative resemble those of the Golden Gate; so that I consider it also +the work of Justinian. Under its arch is a grated window; by climbing up +to this, it is possible to look into a vaulted gallery below the mosque. +A stone, bearing the following inscription, is built slantwise into the +wall above and turned upside down. + + TITO AEL. HADRIANO + ANTONINO AVG. PIO + P. P. PONTIF. AVGVR. + D. D. + +No doubt it was picked up with many others in removing the ruins at the +time of Justinian and built in here by the masons, and when the wall was +again repaired in the reign of Solyman, the workmen, less careful and +skilful than the former, placed it in its present position. The +Mohammedans call this archway the Gate of the Prophetess Huldah[309], +for what reason they cannot say, for they also consider it to have been +the grand entrance to the stables of Solomon, and consequently hold it +in great respect. I shall recur to this gate in my account of the +vaults. I made several excavations in front of it, like those at the +south-east corner, and after digging 10 or 12 feet through the rubbish, +came upon the foundations laid in the age of Solomon, but could not +discover anything to prove that a gate had then existed on this spot. + +Starting from the Aksa the city wall goes to the south, and then turns +again to the west down to the Dung Gate. Throughout the whole of this +angle the lower part of the wall is Roman work, the upper Saracenic, of +the time of Solyman. Although this gate is evidently only a few hundred +years old, it is usually pointed out by the guides as that entered by +our Saviour, when he was brought from the garden of Gethsemane to the +house of Caiaphas. Ignorance of architecture and of the plan of the +ancient city has allowed this tradition to exist[310]. Entering, and +forcing our way through a thicket of cactus, we regain the south wall of +the Temple enclosure, whose lower parts date from the reign of Solomon. +An excavation made at the south-west angle gave, first the masonry of +Solomon, secondly that of the Crusaders, and above these that of +Solyman[311]. + +The ruins south of the Aksa belong to the choir of Justinian's basilica, +which was thrown down by an earthquake between the years A.D. 775 and +785. They now await the last stroke of the hand of Time to bring them to +the ground, when they evidently must injure in their fall the south wall +of the mosque; but the Mohammedan fatalists never think of averting this +by timely repairs. + +The whole of the space between the walls of the city and the _Haram_ was +probably, at the time of Herod the Great, covered by the amphitheatre +erected by that king[312]. + +Near the south-west angle is a very remarkable fragment of an arch and +its pier, built into the _Haram_ wall. Nearly all the learned writers +who have noticed it, with the exception of the Rev. G. Williams, have +considered these remains to belong to the age either of Solomon or +Herod; I however venture to differ from them, and attribute it to +Justinian; who, when building the neighbouring basilica, may have +contemplated throwing a bridge over the valley between Moriah and Sion +to facilitate the communication between the two sanctuaries on these +hills. The work may have been left unfinished, because the plan was +either changed or found impracticable. The blocks shew none of the +characteristics of the work of Solomon or Herod, nor have they the same +marked appearance of antiquity; nor does the masonry in any respect +resemble the Jewish; the stones being laid with mortar. I cannot but +think that if either of these kings had executed a work of such +importance, the Bible and Josephus would not have passed it over in +silence. We can scarcely imagine that so vast an arch, 375 feet in span, +could have been built in those times; and if we suppose that the bridge +crossed the valley with a series of arches, then traces of the piers, or +at least of the stones that composed them, ought to be found among the +rubbish below; also there should be some remains of it on the eastern +slope of Sion; where nothing of the kind occurs. On this point I can +speak with confidence, because when the Pasha requested me to inspect +the city sewer, which runs down the valley to the Pool of Siloam, I +availed myself of this fortunate opportunity to widen and deepen the +excavation, and did not find the slightest indication of a bridge. +Josephus[313] states that when Pompeius approached the city with his +forces, the partisans of Aristobulus, on retreating to the Temple, cut +off the bridge. He alludes to it again on other occasions[314], and to +the tower near it, built by Simon to defend himself against John. What +then has become of the ruins of this bridge and of the tower? Though +now, as on Ophel and part of Sion, there may be open fields on the site +of some parts of ancient Jerusalem, numbers of stones, as I have already +described[315], are scattered about; why then does not the same thing +happen in the Tyropoeon valley, where the great accumulation of +rubbish would have buried the fallen blocks and preserved them from the +action of fire? Besides, the rock exposed in the eastern slope of Sion +is rough and rugged, and untouched by the chisel; there is no part of it +that we can suppose to have supported a building. I have also excavated +along by the side of it in the valley below and found nothing. I have +examined the lower parts of the Arab houses, which some have imagined to +be built upon its foundation, but all my investigations have confirmed +me in my opinion that the bridge never stood upon this spot. Had it done +so, why, as we see the pier on the east, do we not see some +corresponding remains on the west; or if not these, the place where the +spring-stones of the arch rested upon the rock? I believe the bridge +mentioned by Josephus was near the present _Mekhemeh_ (the Mohammedan +Court of Justice), which is on the west of the _Haram_, at the bottom of +Temple Street, because at this point the valley is still crossed from +west to east by arches, sustaining the conduit which brings the water +from Etham into the Temple, and the ground south of this, on the +opposite side, formerly occupied by the Xystus, has been levelled. The +height of this bridge or dyke above the street is 38 feet on the south, +and 20 on the north; which, it must be remembered, is not the true +elevation of the work itself; because the ground has been raised on each +side by the accumulation of rubbish in the bottom of the Tyropoeon. +This, in my opinion, joined the Upper city to the Temple-hill in former +times, as it now does. It is surely very improbable that the principal +approach to the Temple from the west should have been placed at one +corner, instead of in the centre of the enclosure; as would have been +the case had the great arch formed part of a bridge while that building +was standing: and when this was broken down, the communication with the +Temple would not have been cut off, as the dyke would still have been a +more direct and convenient road from the city. + +Before arriving at the Jews' wailing place, we come to the Gate +_el-Mogarba_, leading to the mosque of the Mogarabins; a few yards to +the north of which is a little rectangular plot of ground, surrounded by +a low wall: after passing this I entered a dark chamber, in which was a +doorway almost buried. M. Isambert[316] has attempted to identify this +with one of the four western gates mentioned by Josephus[317]; but not +having tested his theory on the spot, he is unaware that the difference +of level between the outside and inside of the _Haram_ renders this +impossible; moreover, the gate has evidently been made at a date long +after the building of the wall. + +The Jews' wailing place is a small open plot; where a piece of Herod's +wall is still seen between the outer wall of the _Mekhemeh_ and that of +a private house (belonging to Abu-Saud): it is called in Arabic _Haï +el-Mogharibeh_ (the wall of the Mogarabins). M. de Saulcy says of it: +"Up to a height of more than 12 metres (about 39 feet) the original +building has remained entire; regular courses of fine stones, perfectly +squared, but with an even border standing out as a kind of framework, +enclosing the joints, rise over each other to within two or three yards +from the top of the wall. A moment's inspection is enough to ascertain, +without any doubt, that the Jewish tradition is positively correct; a +wall like this has never been constructed either by Greeks or Romans. We +have evidently here a sample of original Hebraic architecture[318]. In +the inferior courses the stones are on the average twice as wide as they +are high; now and then, however, some square blocks happen to be laid +between the long ones. The four inferior courses nearest the ground are +formed of square blocks, with the exception of the last but one, which +is composed of blocks three times as long as they are high. As the +courses successively rise above the ground, the dimensions of the blocks +decrease, and, lastly, every course recedes about one fifth of an +English inch behind the surface of the one immediately below it. Beyond +these walls (bounding the space on each side) the ancient construction +extends about 38 feet to the right, and 36 to the left, or in the +direction of the _Mekhemeh_. Again, the primitive wall is crowned +towards the summit by several courses of hewn stones regularly disposed, +but of small dimensions. These upper courses are of comparatively recent +date, and their age cannot be referred to a period anterior to the +Mohammedan conquest. On the face of the ancient wall appear large +notches, which have been made at some undeterminable period, for the +purpose of fixing a pediment over this part of the enclosure; these +notches, hollowed out in the shape of a niche, that is to say, round at +the top with a rectangular basis, are of different dimensions, perhaps +they may have been made at the period of the rebuilding of the Temple by +Herod[319]." From its delicacy of execution I consider this wall +Herodian work; besides, I think it very unlikely that the Chaldeans, +more barbarous than the Romans, would have left anything standing at +Jerusalem: they would have pulled down all that the flames had spared. I +consider the smaller masonry of the upper part to be of the time of the +Crusades or Saracenic. Friday is the day on which the Jews chiefly +assemble here in great numbers, to pray, to recite the Psalms of David, +and bedew with their tears these remains of their former greatness. This +privilege is granted to them on payment of a sum of money to the Effendi +in charge of the _Haram_. This custom dates from a very early period; it +is mentioned by Benjamin of Tudela in the twelfth century[320]. + +The stones in the lower parts of the walls of the _Mekhemeh_ are +remarkable for their rough rustic work in high relief. They are not so +large as those we attribute to the age of Solomon or Herod, but still +appear ancient. I think they may belong to the Asmonean epoch, and have +formed the basement of a tower, defending the Xystus bridge on the side +of the Temple. The masonry in the upper hall of the time of the +Crusaders, where the vaulting is supported by pointed arches springing +from pillars, is evidently much more modern. According to Mohammedan +tradition this is the Judgement Hall of Solomon, converted into an +armoury by the Crusaders: it is certainly not improbable that it may +have been a dependency of the Knights Templar. The large chamber below, +which has undoubtedly been used as a cistern, as is shewn by the very +strong cement in the walls, is now filled with rubbish. In the middle of +the upper hall is a fountain, now and then supplied with the water of +Etham; and on the left of the principal entrance (part of a restoration +by Saladin or Solyman) an ancient sarcophagus, found in the Tombs of the +Kings outside the Damascus Gate: it is a facsimile of that carried to +Paris by M. de Saulcy, and now placed in the Gallery of the Louvre; it +at present serves to hold water[321]. + +Close to the _Mekhemeh_ is the principal entrance into the _Haram_, +which has two doorways, and is ornamented with groups of spiral columns +supporting elegant capitals carved in leaf patterns, the work of +Saladin. Before its west front is a fountain, an elegant specimen of +ornate Saracenic work: its small basin, no longer filled with water, is +an ancient sarcophagus of red Palestine breccia. From this spot up to +the north-west corner the ancient foundations of the _Haram_ wall are +concealed by Arab houses, and can only be seen here and there above the +level of the ground; enough, however, is visible to shew that the old +wall followed the line of the present enclosure from south to north. + +Returning to the Temple Street and going westward along the dyke, which, +with the Rev. G. Williams[322], I consider to be the ancient bridge +between Sion and Moriah, we see, after a few yards, on the right hand a +small façade of Saracenic architecture, adorned with arabesques of +excellent design; whose accurate execution deserves notice. It is a +fragment of an ancient school, established by Saladin, the revenues of +which are now exhausted, so that nothing else remains besides this +building. A little further on we leave this street (called by the +Crusaders the Bridge of S. Giles), by taking the first turning to the +north, and find, after passing the corner, a stone embedded in the lower +part of the wall of the first Arab house on the right hand, bearing an +inscription, which however is of no importance. This street runs along +the top of a vault which I have examined. It was constructed to form an +easy communication with the Tyropoeon, and proves that in former times +there was high ground on this spot. Going on northward we arrive at a +Saracenic fountain, now without water; near it on the south is a passage +leading into the central sewer, which here deviates a little to the east +to regain the middle of the valley, and consequently passes under the +bridge near the above-named school of Saladin. On the north of the +fountain is an ancient Mohammedan bath rapidly falling to ruin, and near +it the great gate of the Bazaar of the _Haram_, at the end of which is +the _Bâb el-Katannin_ (Gate of the Cotton Merchants). The entrance to +the Bazaar is a frontispiece of rude rustic work, which I attribute to +the age of the Crusades. The interior is Saracenic, as is shewn by the +architraves of the cells on each side, which were built for merchants' +shops, but now are receptacles for filth. After passing the middle of +the Bazaar, there is a bath on the south side called the _Hammam +es-Shefa_, supplied by a spring rising at a great depth: its waters have +an unpleasant taste; but we will speak more particularly of it +presently. On the north, nearly opposite to the entrance of the bath, a +little street leads to the _Bâb el-Kadid_ (Iron Gate) and the Convent of +Blind Dervishes, (a philanthropic establishment of Solyman,) where +singers in the mosque, suffering from this calamity, are still received. + +The first lane on the north of the Bazaar leads directly up to the _Bâb +el-Kadid_; along each side are establishments in aid of the poor, but, +as the revenues have been swallowed up, they are going to ruin, like +the schools of Saladin, which are in the next street on the north, +leading up to the _Bâb el-Nadhir_ (Inspector's Gate). Here, according to +Mohammedan tradition, the Prophet alighted from his steed Borak[323], on +his visit to the Holy Stone of Jacob. Near this gate, on the south, is a +magnificent building, which from the various kinds of stone employed, +the delicacy of its ornamentation, the regularity of its columns, and +the harmony of all its parts, is an excellent example of Saracenic +taste. It was erected by Solyman, and is said by the Mohammedans to have +been the residence of his Sultana Rossellane. It is now gradually +falling to decay, although a very small sum spent in repairs would make +it last for centuries. + +Before leaving this side I need only remark that the arches, crossing +the street down the Tyropoeon, shew that the houses on the west side +of the valley are also in the precincts of the _Haram_ and consequently +inalienable. Up to the time of Saladin and his successors, these +belonged exclusively to the Jews; who, since then, have been gradually +deprived of them by the law of might; and, in order to conceal the +iniquitous usurpation, they have been thus joined to the enclosure of +the _Haram_. + +Having thus described the outside of the Mohammedan sanctuary, I shall +now conduct my reader within, and introduce him to places all as yet +unknown to him, except one or two, which, from their connection with the +exterior, I have been obliged to mention. In doing this, I shall not +spend time over the minor details, which are explained by the Plan and +its description[324]; but attend solely to the matters of greater +interest, not forgetting the Mohammedan traditions. + +I have already, in describing the exterior, noticed all the important +points on the north side, and therefore only call attention to the +extent of levelled rock, continuous with that which forms a large part +of the south wall of the barrack, and was, in my opinion, the north of +the tower Antonia[325]. A short distance from the barrack is an +octagonal oratory, surmounted by a dome, containing (according to the +Mohammedans), a piece of the sacred rock, which was cut off by the +Christians during the time of the Latin kingdom. I have been inside the +building, and seen a stone; but it is too shapeless to enable me to form +any opinion of the truth of the tradition. I think that the place has a +vault beneath, and that probably the passage already mentioned, which +was constructed by Herod as a communication between the tower Antonia +and the east gate, passes by it. + +Above the pool of Bethesda rises the minaret of _Israel_, erected to +commemorate the Patriarch's sleeping on Moriah; this, and the minaret of +the _Serai_ at the north-west corner, are used for the especial purpose +of calling to prayer the faithful of the rite _Hannefi_: both are +founded on the rock, and near the latter the large Herodian masonry is +still visible: they were built in the time of Omar, according to the +Mohammedan chronicles; which I am disposed to believe, because I have +seen, in the interior of the second, small holes, which may have been +made for the fittings of Christian bells during the Latin kingdom. These +would not be there had the minarets been built by Saladin, by whom +however the second may certainly have been restored. + +A small Arab building abutting on the outer wall is the first thing to +attract attention on the east side. In the middle of the room inside is +a kind of pedestal, covered with rich carpets woven in different +colours. According to the Mohammedans, this is the site of the throne of +Solomon, and the place where the Book of Wisdom was composed, to which, +in consequence, he will return at the Day of Judgement to assist his +father David in judging the Israelites. We can see how highly the +followers of the prophet esteem the place by the number of small tablets +fastened to the window, as tokens of gratitude for some blessing +received. + +To the south of this is the Golden Gate[326]; a small staircase on the +north side conducts us to the top, which is an excellent position for a +general view of the _Haram es-Sherîf_, the Valley of Kidron, the Mount +of Olives, and the whole of Jerusalem. Here we see the truth of the +words of Josephus[327], that "the city lay over against the Temple in +the manner of a theatre." The Mohammedans say that on the Last Day the +Prophet _Isa_ (Jesus) will descend from heaven upon this gate to judge +the world, and will commit the Jews to the decision of David and +Solomon, and the followers of Islam to the Prophet. Passing along the +boundary wall to the south we come to a very narrow staircase built +against it, leading up to a window from which the shaft of a column laid +longwise projects for about 5 feet; beneath it is the deep valley of +Kidron. This marks the position of the invisible bridge _es-Sirah_ and +the 'Window of Judgement,' where Mohammed will sit on the Day of +Judgement, and order all to pass the bridge, no wider than the edge of a +sword; over it the faithful will run swiftly and enter Paradise; while +the infidels, in trying to cross, will fall into the abyss of Hell open +wide beneath them. I have seen not a few fanatics come to pray in a +niche very near the window, and then step on to the column; and +afterwards try to obtain the credit of having seen that which is +invisible. In the south-east corner of the enclosure is a ruined mosque, +with 14 arches, in two rows, supported by square pillars. This was +formerly the place of prayer according to the rite _Hanbeli_. The keeper +asserts that, in times long since past, there was a high tower on this +spot; he is indeed not altogether mistaken; for, in the days of Herod, +the cloister with its four rows of columns stood here; high enough to +afford a beautiful view[328]. + +Just on the north of the site of this is a staircase leading down into a +chamber lighted by loopholes in the outer wall of the _Haram_. After +passing the upper doorway we have on the right hand a small aperture, +through which we can look into the great vault, and see some of its many +columns. In the south wall at the end of the chamber the keeper points +out a marble basin in the form of a cradle, as the one which held the +Infant Jesus, when He was brought to the Temple for circumcision; and +shews the places occupied by the Virgin Mary and S. Joseph, and the two +niches where stood the Prophets Zacharias and Ezekiel. The story is +worthless, but the view of the grotto excavated partly in the rock and +of the enormous blocks in the wall is very interesting. + +On quitting this place we observe a large terrace formed above the +subterranean vault. I descended by a large hole close to the south wall +of the _Haram_, and on arriving in the great chamber, saw a forest of +columns supporting the roof, rising among heaps of earth and ruins. I +believe that this immense building was originally constructed by +Solomon, in order to increase the area of the platform of the Temple; +and at the same time to contain water, which was used in such quantities +in the service of the Sanctuary; the height of the vault, measured near +the south-east corner, is 39 feet above the floor of rock; which I found +after digging through a layer of earth. It is lower towards the north, +for the rock rises there, as it does towards the north-west corner, +where I had great difficulty in finding it, from the accumulation of +rubbish. The whole building has evidently undergone restoration at +different periods; as is shewn by its irregular shape and the condition +and different kinds of masonry of the present walls. Of these the east +and south walls (being part of the _Haram_ wall) are Herodian work; at +the south-east corner, by the chamber of the cradle of Christ, which we +have already visited, we see Roman work in the inner wall and in some +masonry on the north, at which point it is evident that the size of the +vault has been diminished; some other small walls in the interior belong +to a much later period, perhaps that of the Crusades. The plinths of the +numerous columns are rusticated in the Herodian style, but their shafts +are Roman. Their length diminishes towards the north owing to the rise +of the rocky floor towards the main mass of the hill on that side; which +however is generally not visible from within, as it is faced with +masonry. The whole vaulting, supported by semicircular arches, is Roman. +I consider therefore that the last restoration was made by order of +Justinian, but cannot allow that the whole building dates from that +time, because it is not likely that his historian, Procopius, would have +omitted to mention so stupendous a work; nor would there have been any +necessity for that Emperor to enlarge this part of the area of Moriah. +From within we plainly see the triple gate and the pointed arch, to +which we drew attention during our circuit of the walls. The former is +of the age of Justinian; but the quantity of earth and rubbish, now +piled against it on the inside, renders it difficult to form an opinion +on the purpose for which it was constructed. I believe that at that +period the vault was not used as a cistern. The pointed arch was, I +think, built in the time of the Latin kingdom, as a postern gate for +sorties, and an entrance into the stables of the Knights Templar; which, +from the small splayed loopholes in the south and east walls, the iron +rings fastened to the masonry, and the small party walls and holes cut +in the ground, I suppose to have been in this building. I was confirmed +in this opinion by observing a door (built-up) on the west side of the +vault which, I think, must have communicated with those under the mosque +_el-Aksa_. The Mohammedan legend, that both these were the stables of +Solomon[329] (as they still call them), probably took its rise from the +use to which they were applied by the Crusaders. On excavating inside, +near the ruined passage, I found three capitals of columns in white +veined marble[330] of an elegant design and good execution. + +Returning to the open air and standing upon the great terrace, we see on +what vast foundations the famous 'Royal Cloister' of Herod was +supported. The mosque _el-Aksa_ is a large pile of buildings abutting on +the south wall of the _Haram_. The principal axis of the edifice runs +north and south, instead of east and west according to the general law +of the Latin Church; consequently some authors have asserted that it was +not built for Christian worship, but originally was a mosque. We will +therefore examine its history. Some think it was the work of +Constantine; but then Eusebius, his panegyrist, does not mention that he +in any way evidenced any regard or care for Moriah. Others attribute it +to Justinian; with these I agree. The idea of erecting this basilica, +and dedicating it to the Virgin, was not conceived at first by the +Emperor, but by Elias, Patriarch of Jerusalem, A.D. 501. As the +Christians of Palestine had not the means of executing so great a work, +they sought the aid of Justinian, through the Abbot Saba; and the +Emperor not only gave the assistance asked, but also took care that the +building should be worthy of the Christian religion: so we are informed +by the monk Cyril of Scythopolis, a Greek historian, living A.D. 555, +who embraced the monastic life under the rule of S. Saba. In the year +531 all difficulties were overcome, and this magnificent edifice +completed. Its grandeur is recorded by Procopius[331], whose account is +briefly as follows. The length of the building was greater than the +breadth, which however was so great that they had difficulty in +procuring rafters for the roof of sufficient length. This was supported +by two rows of columns, one above the other, which were quarried in the +neighbourhood of Jerusalem, rivalling marble in beauty, and veined with +red, resembling in colour the brightness of fire. Two of them, at the +entrance of the Temple, were larger and more beautiful than the rest. He +also mentions the great blocks of stone used in the work, and tells us +by what means they were brought on to the ground. The whole of his +description undoubtedly suits the mosque _el-Aksa_, although its +exterior has been greatly changed; since there are now no traces of +cloisters, atrium, or other buildings mentioned by the same historian. +The two great columns are no longer to be seen; but it is not improbable +that they are concealed within the two central piers of the porch. Those +inside the basilica correspond to the above description, and by secretly +chipping off bits of the plaster, with which all are now coated, I was +able to ascertain that they are made of red Palestine breccia, a rock +occurring in abundance on the west of the city, near the Greek convent +of the Holy Cross. + +Antoninus of Piacenza[332], in the sixth century, saw the whole pile of +Justinian's building in its glory. He speaks of the adjoining hospice, +containing from 3000 to 5000 beds, wonders at the number, and praises +the piety of the Monks and Nuns who served there, and states that the +basilica of S. Mary was in front of the Temple of Solomon, and +communicated with the basilica of S. Sophia, situated on the site of the +Prætorium of Pilate. He also mentions that a stone was then exhibited +inside it, bearing the print of our Saviour's foot. It is remarkable +that a similar stone is now exposed to receive the reverence of the +Mohammedans at the south end of the present mosque. + +It appears that the basilica was not greatly injured at the time of the +Persian invasion, A.D. 614; as we find it open for Christian worship +when the troops of Omar were besieging Jerusalem. The Khalif visited it +after the surrender of the city to offer up his prayers within its +walls, and ordered that thenceforth it should be devoted to the rites of +his faith[333]. + +The Rev. G. Williams, in his learned and valuable work on the Holy +City[334], tells us that towards the end of the seventh century the +tenth Khalif, "'Abd-el-Melik covered its gates with plates of gold and +silver, but it was soon stripped of its treasures in consequence of the +poverty of his successors. During the Khalifat of his son Waled, the +eastern part of the mosque _el-Aksa_ fell to ruin, and as he had no +funds to repair it, he ordered the ruined part to be pulled down, and +the price of the materials to be distributed to the poor. Forty years +later, in the time of the second Abbasside Khalif Abu-J'afar-el-Mansur, +the east and west sides were decayed by time, or injured by an +earthquake, and as he could not afford to restore it, he stripped the +gold from the doors, coined it, and applied the proceeds to the +necessary repairs. A second earthquake shook down what he had rebuilt, +and his son and successor el-Mahadi (A.D. 775-785) found the mosque in +ruins. The character of the building was altered by this Khalif, whose +taste was offended by its proportions, and he gave orders that its +length should be diminished and its width increased. Again in the 452nd +year of the Hejra (A.D. 1060) it suffered materially from the falling in +of the roof." From the facts stated in this account we can see how +greatly the basilica of Justinian has been altered, and understand the +Saracenic features which now exist in the original building. The two +aisles added to the older structure on the east and west, the demolition +of the choir, and the erection of the south wall, belong to the great +alterations made by el-Mahadi. + +The Crusaders converted it into a residence under the name of the +'Palace of Solomon,' and a portion of it was granted to the Knights +Templar[335] by Baldwin II. Saladin restored the worship of Islam, and +it is now used for the rite _Shaffi_. + +We will now proceed to an examination of the exterior and interior of +the building itself. The façade has a porch with seven arches[336], +corresponding to the seven aisles of the mosque itself. The centre arch +is much larger than the others; all are acutely pointed. The form of the +battlements crowning the walls, the details of the niches, and the +ornamental painting characterise the architecture of this part as +Saracenic. On entering the mosque the keeper points out the sepulchre of +the sons of Aaron, opposite to the middle door. The central or more +ancient part of the building retains traces of a cruciform Christian +church, being a nave with two side aisles and a transept[337]; the +dimensions of the different parts also agree perfectly with this +plan[338]. The walls of the nave are supported by columns bearing +Corinthian capitals, which are rather overloaded with ornamental detail, +in the usual bad taste of Byzantine art. From these spring pointed +arches, and above them are two rows of windows with semicircular heads, +of which the lower range is open, the upper built up. The pillars +supporting the walls and aisles on each side are square, and very plain, +except on their faces to the east, which are relieved by projecting +half-columns. The two outermost aisles on each side are much lower than +the others, and shew in their rough walls a very different and later +style of masonry, thus proving that they were added at a subsequent +period. The transept is divided from the nave by a large pointed arch, +and at their intersection is a dome, rising from a cylindrical drum +supported by four pillars ornamented with shafts of verd antique with +Corinthian capitals. The section of the dome is slightly ovoid and the +drum has pointed windows, which prove that it must have been wholly +rebuilt at a date later than the original foundation of the church. Its +walls on the inside are adorned in the Saracenic style with arabesques, +flowers, landscapes, and mosaics (executed during the reign of Selim I. +and Solyman). This mass of ornament, though devoid of taste, when +combined with the coloured glass in the windows, produces an agreeable +and at first sight striking effect. Behind the south arch and under the +dome in the south wall is the _Mikhereb_ of the Mohammedans, indicating +the _Kibla_ or direction of Mecca. This is ornamented with small shafts +of porphyry and verd antique; the wall being faced with slabs of very +valuable marbles of different colours; the keeper asserts that the black +stone in the middle was brought from Mecca, and was taken from that +given by God to Abraham, as a token of His covenant with him. On the +right of this is the _Minbar_ or tribune for prayers, a magnificent work +in cedar wood, executed in former times by the carvers of Aleppo; it is +called _Borkan-ed-din-Khadki_, and to the right of it, is the stone with +the print of our Saviour's foot, mentioned above; to speak the truth, it +requires a vivid fancy to see the impression. In the arms of the +transept are fine columns of granite, verd antique, travertine, and +lumachello[339], supporting capitals of different patterns and +unquestionable antiquity. In the western arm, on the left hand, are two +columns of verd antique, a small distance apart, called by the +Mohammedans the 'Columns of Proof,' because, according to our guide, all +who enjoy the favour of God can pass through the narrow space between +them, but not those who are wicked. The worn state of their inner sides +shews the great number of the faithful who have passed the test. This +arm terminates in a long hall, whose low vaulted roof is supported by +pointed arches springing from many-sided pillars; it is called the +mosque of Abu-Bekr, but is really an ancient gallery built by the +Crusaders. Our guide tells us that in their time it was used as an +armoury, which is doubtless the truth, as the mosque _el-Aksa_ itself +was converted into a dwelling-house. At the end of the eastern arm is a +small vaulted hall, resting on the city wall and lighted by windows +commanding a fine view of the slopes of Ophel, part of the Kidron +valley, and the Mount of Offence with the village of Siloam. This +chamber is supposed to be the place in which Omar prayed for the first +time within the walls of the _Haram_: by the spot where he knelt there +is a niche, ornamented with two columns of clouded grey marble, which +have been inverted by the architect, so that the capitals richly carved +with leaves serve as bases. This is called especially the mosque of +Omar, as it continued to be the private oratory of the Khalif. On +turning back to enter the main building, we see on the right a kind of +chapel, wherein is a niche ornamented with marble, called _Bâb er-Rahma_ +(Gate of Mercy), near it are the _Mikhereb_ of S. John (Baptist) and +Zacharias. On quitting the mosque by the great northern door, and +turning to the right, we find a flight of steps leading down to the +subterranean vaults below it. + +These consist of two large corridors running below and parallel to the +mosque. The floor slopes from north to south, and near the latter +extremity there is a change in the level[340]. At the entrance they are +separated by a wall entirely of Arab work, and farther on by an arcade +supported by square pillars; the vaulting is not quite circular, being +slightly flattened; it is very regular, and composed of stones of +moderate dimensions, well chiselled with sharp edges. They are not of an +uniform size, but nevertheless perfectly correspond with Roman work, as +do the two pillars, and cannot belong to an earlier period; being laid +with mortar and with great accuracy. The east wall is formed of oblong +blocks, all of moderate dimensions and laid with mortar. The stones are +well squared and smoothed by the hammer, without the least trace of +rustic work; the surface of the wall is smooth and perpendicular to the +ground and cannot be considered anything but Roman masonry. The west +wall differs somewhat from the above in the form of its materials; these +are large blocks of stone resembling in their size those attributed to +the Herodian age. On some the rustic work remains, on others there are +but slight traces of it, and after a very minute and careful +examination, I think that there has been an attempt to destroy it on +all, with the intention of smoothing the face of the wall: these blocks +are all laid with mortar, but not arranged in regular courses; and the +wall is perpendicular to the ground. It is quite evident that, though +materials found among the extensive ruins have been used in constructing +this wall, the present building is not of the age of Herod, still less +of Solomon, but without doubt of Justinian. At the south end of the +vault the two galleries unite, the line of the arcade dividing them +being only marked by a large monolithic column and two half-columns; one +attached to the last pillar on the north, the other to a wall on the +south. The vaulting of this chamber consists of four hemispherical +cupolas, divided by arches springing from the central pillar, with a +shell ornament on the pendentives. Two doors, still remaining in the +south wall, communicated with the outside. The one on the east is the +Gate of Huldah, which we noticed during our survey of the exterior, +inside it is marked by a marble pillar built into the wall; the other +opens into a chamber, and is flanked by two marble pillars with elegant +capitals[341]. The east and west walls in this lower portion of the +gallery are a continuation of those described above, and of similar +masonry; but the face of the south wall which divides the two doors is +entirely formed by four great blocks, laid without mortar. This, then, +together with the monolith and its capital[342], I consider a fragment +of Herod's magnificent building; but I attribute the cupolas in the +vaulting and the two doors to Justinian's restoration. It is very +probable that the gates and the gallery were built in the days of +Solomon, either as an entrance to the Temple from the south, or perhaps +as part of the substructure of the palace of Pharaoh's daughter, which +may have occupied this position. The whole was, no doubt, destroyed by +the Chaldeans and repaired to the best of his ability by Nehemiah. It is +very probable that the south gate and the galleries were rebuilt by +Herod, when he undertook his great work of the restoration of the +Temple, to form a communication between it (especially the Court of the +Gentiles) and the south part of the city. We need not suppose that it +was entirely destroyed when the Romans razed the sacred buildings, +because, though the ruins which fell upon it might injure the vaulting, +they would also cover and so preserve it. In the gate at the south +extremity we recognise the Middle Gates of Josephus; the position of +which is defined by the words of the historian: "the fourth front of the +Temple, which was southwards, had gates in the middle[343]." Justinian +was, I think, the person who repaired and adorned these gates, and +rebuilt the vaults, to support the foundations of his basilica, and +serve at the same time for a communication between Moriah and the south +part of the city. The east wall of the galleries is underneath the row +of pillars, on the east of the first side aisle in the same direction; +that is, under one of the outer walls of the ancient basilica; while the +west wall is exactly under the line running down the middle of the great +nave. The architect must have _rebuilt_ them to serve for this purpose, +and not simply availed himself of what was already there, because, as I +have already said, the character of the masonry in the walls shews that +it is not older than the age of Justinian. + +Let us now refer to the account given by Procopius[344], who, after +stating that the Emperor Justinian had ordered a Temple, dedicated to +the Virgin, to be built at Jerusalem on the most prominent of the hills, +goes on to say, "The hills however had not sufficient space for the +completion of the work according to the Emperor's order; but a fourth +part of the Temple was deficient, towards the south and the east, just +where it is lawful for the priests to perform their rites. Hence the +following device was conceived by the persons who had charge of the +work--they laid the foundations at the extreme of the flat ground and +raised a building of equal height with the rock. When, then, they had +brought it as high as the extremity, they placed over the intervening +space arches from the top of the walls, and connected the building with +the remainder of the Temple's foundation. In this way the Temple is in +part founded on solid rock and in part suspended; the Emperor's power +having contrived a space in addition to the hill." He also states that +this is the only building in the city situated in this way. I agree with +what the historian says of the want of space, on the south and east +(where the ruined vault was), and that the persons in charge of the work +built the side walls as described, but do not believe that they were +the first persons to construct them; they found them existing, but in +ruins, and made use of the excellent materials which were lying on the +spot, to rebuild them to suit their purpose; repairing such parts as +they found standing upright and firm. + +As I agree in almost every point with the opinion of M. de Vogüé, I +quote his words[345]: "This gallery is a Byzantine building, and is +roofed with two parallel barrel vaults, the inner sides of which are +supported by a row of semicircular arches springing from square piers. +The south end is covered by four domes arranged in a square, resting on +pendentives; and the four arches dividing and supporting them spring +from an isolated central column. This arrangement is characteristic, so +that though the end of the building is ancient, and probably of the age +of Herod, it is impossible to assign that date to a vestibule vaulted +with domes. This portion of the passage has then been rebuilt at a +comparatively modern period, namely that of the foundation of the +basilica." + +The only point on which I differ from the above is, that I believe the +monolith, the south wall, and perhaps some portion (in the lower parts) +of the side walls of the end gallery to be of the age of Herod. Near the +entrance, on the west side, I discovered a dark room; the Arab wall +above mentioned has been built to enclose it, and, at the same time, +conceal a doorway, leading into an underground passage, which runs to +the west, and formerly came out inside the city, to the south of the +_Mekhemeh_. It is possible that the doorway, half buried in the ground, +near the Jews' wailing place, is its other extremity. I endeavoured to +clear a passage to it, but was prevented by the mass of rubbish by which +it had designedly been blocked up, and obliged to abandon my attempt; +the keeper however assured me that I was right in my conjecture. There +is also an aperture in the east wall, now closed with loosely built +stones and rubbish, which seems to have been the entrance to a passage +leading into the vault at the south-east corner of the _Haram_. In the +west wall of the western corridor, just before reaching the steps +leading down into the chamber of the monolith, is a small arch, rising +about four feet above the ground. A Mohammedan tradition asserts this to +be the entrance to an underground passage, leading to the Tomb of David; +it is now however impossible to explore it. There is also a space in the +east wall of the above chamber, formerly occupied by a doorway, which no +doubt communicated with a passage into the vaults we have already +visited, in the south-east corner of the _Haram_; it is exactly in a +line with the door I pointed out in them. Hence we see how the stables +were reached from inside the enclosure. Opposite to this doorway is +another, in the west wall, leading into the vaults below the mosque +Abu-Bekr or the armoury of the Templars. These are very likely the +underground passages in which the Jews took refuge during a riot[346]; +that they communicated with Mount Sion seems established by the account +given by Josephus[347] of the attempted escape of the tyrant Simon from +that place; who appeared on the spot where the Temple had stood, dressed +in purple and white, in the hope of terrifying the Roman guard. This is +also an additional proof that the architects of Justinian were not the +original builders of these vaults. + +Returning to the outer air and going towards the south-west angle of the +_Haram_ we see the mosque of the Mogarabins, or western Mohammedans. It +is a plain edifice without aisles, with some buildings attached to it +serving as a hospice for pilgrims; in which Abd-el-Kader resided during +his visit to the city in 1857. On the west side of the enclosure are +various buildings, chiefly of the dates of the Crusaders, of Saladin, or +of Solyman; with a chapel dedicated to _Cobba-Moussa_ (Moses), a +fountain for ablutions, and several small edifices which may be seen in +the plan. + +The mosque _Kubbet es-Sakharah_[348] stands upon an irregular +quadrilateral platform, raised above the general level of the _Haram_, +consisting almost wholly of rock, and surrounded by a low wall intended +(most unsuccessfully) rather for ornament than use. Abutting on it, and +in different parts of the platform itself, are several small buildings, +crowned with elegant domes, and applied to various uses; some for +oratories or schools, or for interviews between the faithful and their +spiritual advisers; others for houses for the readers of the Koran, +dervishes, and the keepers of the mosque; others again for stores. Two +or three flights of steps on each side lead up to the platform, which is +regarded by the Mohammedans as a sacred place. The number of steps in +each flight is not the same, owing to the differences of level in the +general surface of the _Haram_. They are made of white Palestine +breccia, and at the head of each stands an elegant arcade of pointed +arches, with columns of different materials, such as granite, or verd +antique, or marble of less value; these generally differ both in height +and diameter, in their bases and in the patterns of their capitals. +Hence I am led to suppose that they formerly belonged to one of the +Christian churches, which the Mohammedans destroyed and robbed of their +ornaments to decorate their own sanctuary. These slender structures are +not all alike; some have four arches and three columns, others six or +seven arches with a corresponding number of columns; but their general +effect is very good. The whole of the platform is paved with large slabs +of white Palestine breccia, concealing the rough surface of the rock; +which I saw underneath when some slight repairs were in progress, and +also in the houses abutting on the wall, and in the cisterns; there is +therefore no doubt that this is the actual summit of Moriah. + +From this esplanade there is a fine view of the mosque[349], a structure +whose lightness, elegance, and richness is surpassed by very few. Its +plan is very simple: a circular drum, rising above a regular octagonal +base, supports a pointed dome, whose form is enough to characterise the +building as Saracenic. The upper part of the dome is slightly pointed, +while the lower is almost imperceptibly contracted. Its gracefulness is +thus increased, without loss of grandeur. It is covered with zinc; the +drum is inlaid with small glazed tiles of different colours (called +Damascenes by the Levantines), which, being made expressly for the +purpose, bear on them arabesques and maxims from the Koran with other +inscriptions, standing out clearly from a blue background. The octagon +is faced with slabs of veined white marble for a height of five feet +from the ground; and then incrusted with coloured bricks, which +terminate in a cornice covered with Arabic inscriptions. The south-west +face of the octagon is uncovered, and exposes the original rough wall; +whose stones and masonry prove that the whole, without exception, is the +work of Saracenic artists. All the doors and windows are pointed; but +their original shape was slightly altered during the restorations in the +sixteenth and seventeenth centuries; especially in the case of the +windows of the drum, whose outside moulding is now square. + +Opposite to the Gate of David (on the east side) is a small building +with a dodecagonal dome, supported by columns of valuable marbles with +very old capitals. Their bases are of different heights, to compensate +for the inequality in the length of the shafts. It is called _Kubbet +es-Silsileh_ (the dome of the chain) or _Kubbet el-Berareh_ (the dome of +justice), being, according to Mohammedan tradition, the site of the +judgement seat of David, to which he will return on the Last Day[350]. +After stamping on the floor and carefully examining the interior of this +edifice, I have come to the conclusion that there is a vault below it, +in the middle, which however is of no great size, and is very probably +part of a conduit. The south door has a porch supported by eight columns +of verd antique with Corinthian capitals; on the west, near to this, the +Santon points out a slab of veined marble called 'the Bird of +Solomon[351].' + +In my description of the interior of the mosque[352], I shall, in a +great measure, follow the account of M. de Vogüé[353], with several +additions and omissions. It is divided into three concentric spaces, by +two arcades, the inner circular, the outer octagonal in plan. The first, +which supports the drum of the dome, is formed by four large +quadrangular piers and twelve columns; the second by eight piers and +sixteen columns; these two outer galleries have flat ceilings of painted +wood; the shafts of the columns are made of valuable marbles, the +majority of verd antique. I think they may have been taken from +Constantine's church of the Resurrection, when it was lying in ruins, +after its destruction by Chosroes; for many of them have been broken, +and are united again by iron hoops; others shew chips and bruises +apparently produced by a fall; besides, they do not correspond one with +another, either in diameter or in height. The history of the other +Christian edifices in Jerusalem supplies us with not a few instances of +a similar spoliation; while we have no record in the Mohammedan +chronicles, that valuable foreign marbles were brought by them to the +city; as was done by Constantine according to Eusebius. The bases of the +columns in the inner range are Attic, those in the second are different, +and of a debased style; very frequently the shaft rests on a cubical +plinth of white marble without any base moulding. Their capitals are +Byzantine, that is, resemble more or less closely an order which is a +coarse copy of the Corinthian[354]. The arches of the inner arcade +spring directly from the capitals of the columns; but the arrangement in +the outer one is very peculiar. On the capitals is placed a large block, +resembling a truncated pyramid (base square), supporting a horizontal +entablature, from which springs a series of slightly pointed arches: +their form and ornamentation are thoroughly Saracenic, as is the mosaic +work over the arches[355]. The quasi-capitals of the piers are formed by +an arcade in low relief, enclosing a series of palm trees, rudely +executed. The drum is inlaid with mosaic of various leaf patterns. The +upper part of the dome is profusely adorned with gilded arabesques on +different coloured grounds. The shape of the building, its ornamentation +in carved wood, mosaic, pictures and gilding; in a word, its whole +appearance bears a Turco-Arabian character of various periods, more +especially from that of Saladin to that of Solyman. + +In the centre of the mosque is a rock, rising above the floor, and +occupying nearly the whole space under the dome, whose bare rough +surface is strangely contrasted with the rich decorations surrounding +it. This is _es-Sakharah_, the great object of the Mohammedan's +reverence[356], which gives the building its name. Its highest part is +some five or six feet above the pavement. No tool has ever touched its +upper surface, but the north and west sides have been hewn vertical, and +from the appearance of the work, I am inclined to think that it was done +when the mosque was built by Omar. A circular hole is cut in its highest +part towards the south-west, and on the south-east side is a doorway +leading down into a rather large chamber within it, whitewashed, and +lighted by the above-named hole. The Iman, who accompanied us, informed +us that the rock is suspended in the air[357], and also that it has a +great cavity beneath, and certainly by stamping on the floor and +striking the walls a hollow sound is produced; but this is not to be +wondered at, because, in order to give a more regular shape to the +chamber, (as it is only a cistern,) they have built a slight wall within +it all round, in front of the shelving sides. The hollow sound, heard on +striking a large slab in the middle of the floor, is to be explained by +the existence of a communication with a lower cistern; how I +ascertained this fact I will presently relate. The Mohammedans +themselves account for it by saying, that this is the well of the souls +of the dead, called by them _Bir el-arruah_[358]. I consider it the +cistern of the threshing floor of Araunah. + +The Turkish Iman related to us many legends connected with the inside +and outside of this rock. The description of the plan will explain the +shorter of these; the others will be found in the Notes[359]. + +On quitting the mosque by the south door, we find, opposite to us, a +_minbar_ or pulpit, ornamented with small columns, and marbles of +different colours. Saladin built it as a place from which to read +prayers on days of great solemnity[360]. On the west of this, the spot +is pointed out on which he slept after entering Jerusalem, and where he +also remained to assist in the purification of the mosque. + +I have now finished my description of those places in the _Haram_, which +can be easily seen or visited; but not of those below the ground, which +we will presently proceed to examine; but before doing this, I will +endeavour to apply to the _Haram_ area, the _data_, which history and +Rabbinical traditions afford to us on the position of the ancient +Temple. + +From the historical and other evidence, which I have now brought +forward, it results that I consider _the rock of the Sakharah to fix, +positively and precisely, the position of the threshing floor of +Araunah, and, consequently, of the Temple of Solomon_. + +Starting from this as a definite point, I shall endeavour, not indeed to +restore the sacred edifice in its minutest details, but to lay down on +the existing area the position of the House itself, and the principal +places in connection with it. + +Now the surface of the _Haram_, at the present time, is divided into +three stages of different level. + +(1) The highest is the rock _es-Sakharah_; unquestionably the summit of +Mount Moriah, which, doubtless, was left standing in a conspicuous +position, as a perpetual memorial to posterity of the spot, where David +offered the sacrifice, which God had so mercifully accepted. On this, +then, I place _the altar of burnt offerings_. + +(2) The platform of the present mosque is to be regarded as the space +levelled by Solomon to support _the House itself, with the Inner Court +of the Priests, and the Great or Outer Court_, occupied by the people, +during the performance of the sacred rites. + +(3) The lower plateau of the _Haram_ has been formed by the made ground +constructed by Solomon; which was afterwards extended, especially at the +time of Herod, to make a large and convenient space round the Temple; +and was at that time called _the Court of the Gentiles_. + +Let us now proceed to examine in detail these three elevations, +referring to the authorities whom I have already cited in my +description of the Temples of Solomon and Herod[361]. I consider the +_Sakharah_ to be the site of the altar of burnt-offerings, because it is +very improbable that Solomon would have chosen any other position for it +than that indicated by an Angel to the prophet Gad. Those who object are +bound to explain why this rock alone was left in its natural rough state +amid the splendour of the Temple. If it were not reserved for some +purpose of the highest importance, it would never have been spared when +everything around it was levelled. We shall now see that this site +satisfies the requisite conditions. (1) _The altar was to be of unhewn +stone, and not reached by steps._ Therefore the bronze altar of Solomon +can have only been an ornamental casing for the rock. The shape of the +_Sakharah_ is adapted for this purpose, and it has a regular slope on +the south side leading up to the higher part; and, according to the +Rabbinic traditions, this was the position of the inclined ascent. (2) +_It was a square of twenty cubits._ The rock is large enough to admit of +this and still leave room for the ascent. (3) There must have been _a +capacious receptacle for its drainage_, as they burnt upon it the +victims and their fat, and sprinkled the blood upon and around it. This +was the cavern we have just visited, with the one below, which we shall +presently describe. (4) _It occupied an elevated position_, as appears +from both the Bible and the Rabbinic traditions; probably in order that +the sacrifices might be seen by the people. The present site satisfies +this condition. (5) There must have been _cisterns for water and +drainage on the north side_ to wash the victims and cleanse the ground +from blood, because there the Levites appointed for that duty flayed +them, and had their chambers[362]. (6) _On the east side of the altar +must be a 'place of the ashes,'_ where also the refuse of the victims +might be cast. I cannot but think that this would be outside the +above-named sacred courts; and in fact we find a connected system of +cisterns to the west of the Golden Gate, which I believe were used for +this purpose. (7) The great 'sea of bronze' was to the south-east of the +altar, as we are told by the Mischna; therefore _in this direction there +should be traces of the place from which it was supplied_. Now on the +platform of the mosque, south-east of the rock, is a vault, and to the +south of it many cisterns of water, one of which might have supplied the +sea. These latter, I think, may have been in the great court; so that +after the priests had purified themselves at them, they could enter the +sacred enclosure. + +Therefore I conclude that the locality satisfies the conditions required +by this position of the altar of burnt-offerings and the places in its +neighbourhood; and we have only to see if the cisterns and vaults, +mentioned above, are connected by subterranean passages, to admit of the +flow of water or of blood, as the case may be. That this requirement is +also satisfied, will be presently seen from the account of my +investigations among them. + +I have already stated that I suppose the Temple and its sacred courts to +have occupied the second plateau. The House itself was 60 cubits long +and 20 wide, lying east and west; the porch in front on the east side +was 10 cubits long. If then we circumscribe a square with a side of 20 +cubits about the rock, facing to the four points of the compass, and +produce its north and south sides westward, we inclose a space on the +plateau large enough to admit a building of the required dimensions, and +sufficient space is left even for the courts and buildings of Herod's +Temple. We are told by Josephus that the Temple was not situated in the +middle of the area on the summit of Moriah, but rather towards the +north-west corner: a glance at the Plan will shew that this condition is +satisfied. The same historian relates that the Temple of Herod was a +square of 500 cubits; the place admits of this; consequently we may +conclude that we are right in assigning this site to the ancient Temple. + +That the position of the third plateau has been rightly assigned, hardly +needs demonstration. The made ground is still to be seen on the east +side, and the levelled surfaces and projecting remnant of rock on the +north-west; while we have already noticed the great works by which it +was enlarged on the south. Hence the three levels of the _Haram +es-Sherîf_ correspond with the three spaces occupied by the ancient +Temple. + +It may also be as well to mention a plan of Solomon's Temple, set forth +by some of the Rabbinical authors[363]. They circumscribe a square, with +a side of 20 cubits, about the rock, which they also consider the site +of the altar of burnt-offerings; about this they describe symmetrically +another square, with a side of 180 cubits; then dividing each side into +9 equal parts, and joining the opposite points, the whole is subdivided +into 81 squares, with the square about the rock in the middle. To the +west of this they leave one square, and consider the next three in the +same row to be the site of the House itself. The rows lying north, east, +and south of the five squares mentioned above, are considered to form +the Court of the Levites. (The square between the altar and the Temple +they suppose to have been occupied by the porch and its approach, the +walls of the building, &c.). Parallel to the east side of the above +court, at a distance of 10 cubits, they draw a line, and consider the +parts cut off on the west as the Court of the Israelites, and that +farthest to the east as the Women's Court. Every one may form his own +opinion as to how far this plan may agree with that of Solomon's Temple +(with whose dimensions we are only partially acquainted); for my part I +think that the spaces allotted to the courts are too small, and ought to +be enlarged. + +In order that my investigations among the cisterns, pools, and conduits +in this part of Jerusalem may be understood, I must call the reader's +attention to the three following facts, which for the present I simply +state, but of which I will hereafter give a more detailed account, with +proofs of my assertions where they are necessary. (1) That water is +brought into Jerusalem, and especially into Moriah, by a conduit from +Etham. (2) That in the bath of the _Hammam es-Shefa_ is a spring of +undrinkable water. (3) That at the bottom of the Kidron valley, to the +south-east of the same corner of the _Haram_, is a spring called the +Fountain of the Virgin. I will now enter upon the history of my +discoveries, describing them in order of time, so that the reader may +understand the manner in which the conclusions I have drawn from them +were reached, and the various obstacles which I had to overcome. Before +undertaking an investigation of the subterranean works on Mount Moriah, +a task demanding so large an expenditure of time and money, and +encompassed with so many difficulties, wherein, if discovered, I might +be exposed to very great danger, without any hope of defence or escape, +I considered how far it could be avoided by a careful examination of all +that could be seen on the surface, by a study of the works on the +subject, and by collecting all the information that was possible from +ancient traditions and all other sources; but when all this was done, I +found that I had not been able to form a clear idea of the hidden +recesses of the _Haram_, of its ancient reservoirs and conduits for +water, blood, and other purposes, or of the points where the latter +entered or left the enclosure. I had indeed obtained a knowledge of many +useful facts, but not of what I wanted, and was therefore obliged to +wait until an opportunity occurred of making an accurate scrutiny of the +place itself. This was long in arriving; but by patience and +perseverance I at last succeeded in accomplishing my undertaking, as +will be seen from the following narrative. + +I felt tolerably certain of the existence of a double-chambered cistern +beneath the _Sakharah_, (called in the Rabbinical traditions _Amah_,) +and had no doubt that it had been used to catch the blood of the +victims; in accordance with the statement in the Mischna, that under the +altar of burnt-offerings, to the south-west, was a conduit by means of +which the blood sprinkled on it flowed into the Kidron Valley[364]. I +had also seen on the north side of the platform of the mosque the +openings of two cisterns; and the Mohammedan keepers assured me that the +one to the north contained dirty water, but that the other was dry, and +had been so for many centuries. I accordingly tasted the water of the +former, and found it excellent; and therefore concluded that it was +nothing but a traditional prejudice, derived from the fact that the +place had formerly received the blood of the victims, which are said to +have been slain there[365]. I have already stated that the cistern on +the west of the Golden Gate appeared, in accordance with the _data_ in +the Bible, a probable position for the 'place of the ashes[366].' I had +also learned that some, especially among the Jews, were of opinion that +the Pool of Bethesda was not only used to cleanse the victims for +sacrifice, but also to receive the water which had served for that +purpose, when the animals were flayed in the neighbourhood of the +Temple; also that it was supplied from some pools on a higher level; and +that, when it became necessary to empty it, the filth escaped by a +conduit excavated in the rock, on the east, down into the torrent +Kidron. Now I do not know whether there was a channel of communication +from the Temple to the pool; but it is certain that there were upper +pools[367], and that its waters would naturally escape into the Kidron. +To establish this last point is impossible, from the quantity of rubbish +that fills the pool, and the accumulation of earth outside the walls; +but it is so obvious that it hardly needs demonstration. In the +south-east corner of the pool there is an opening, which apparently +belongs to a conduit, but it is now built up; and on the whole of the +south wall, which is almost buried with earth, there are not any signs +of other mouths. It was then evident that if the water came to it from +the Temple it must enter either from higher ground on the west, or by +the above opening. This however could not be proved without an +examination of the interior of the _Haram_. The keepers of the mosque +wished to persuade me that the water from the spring of the _Hammam +es-Shefa_ flowed into the cistern beneath the _Sakharah_. Very +frequently, on different days, during the deepest silence, I placed my +ear on the great slab, in the middle of the chamber in the rock, beneath +the mosque, but could not hear the slightest sound. I observed that the +floor was paved with marble, and therefore frequently examined both it +and the walls to see if they gave out damp; (if water had been flowing +below, there would certainly have been some moisture;) but they were +always perfectly dry, even during wet weather, so that this test induced +me to reject the common notion that water ran beneath this place. + +Again, one day in the month of January 1857, during an excessively rainy +season, and while a quantity of fallen snow was melting, I observed, on +passing along the Kidron valley, a large stream falling down from the +mouth of a conduit high up in the western bank of the torrent, nearly +opposite to the Tomb of Absalom. I was delighted at the sight, and +instantly resolved to enter the place as soon as the flow of water had +ceased. However, on reflection, I abandoned the design; because I should +have exposed myself to certain danger, since the hill-side at that place +is almost vertical above, and excessively steep on both sides and below, +besides being composed of loose earth that has been thrown down there +and been accumulating for centuries. In course of time the opening was +closed by a landslip, but the water still forced its way through in the +rainy seasons of the following years. The question occurred to me, Can +this be the mouth of the conduit of blood? It was however impossible to +answer it without examining the ground, and this was impracticable by +reason of the great expense of removing such a quantity of soil, and the +fanaticism of the Mohammedans, who would never have allowed me to enter +a subterranean passage possibly leading towards the _Haram_; to which +place I had not then the right of entrance. + +My next information was derived from a brave old Bedouin, who had taken +part in the war against Ibrahim Pasha. In the month of May of the same +year he informed me, in the course of the story of his life, that +underground conduits ran from the Fountain of the Virgin into the +interior of the city and Temple; which he had once traversed with a +company of Arabs in making a night attack on the city, in order to +surprise the Egyptian troops at the gates and admit his own companions. +I wanted him to give me more minute information, but he refused, even +when I offered him money; and it was not until a later period that I +obtained fuller details from a peasant in the neighbourhood of +Jerusalem; of which I afterwards availed myself, as will be seen: but +even in his case, in spite of bribes, I was obliged to content myself +with listening, without verifying what was reported. + +In the month of September 1857, I was walking outside the east wall of +the _Haram_, and stopped to watch an Arab who was digging a grave near +the southern extremity of the cemetery. I entered into conversation with +him, with a view of quietly examining his excavation; but on reaching a +depth of three feet he stopped, as his work was finished; for the dead +Arabs like the earth to lie light upon them. However, by a present I +induced him to continue his labour; but after going down about 2 feet +more, he again desisted, at the instigation of another workman, who in +the mean time had come to bring him some food. A little more money set +them both at work, and after sinking 2 feet lower, they came upon +something hard, which on examination proved to be a wall, belonging, as +I suspected, to a conduit; and by widening the excavation a little, we +found the corresponding side wall at a distance of 3-1/2 feet, both +being of great age. I would gladly have had them continue their work; +but they were both tired, and also afraid of being seen digging so deep, +in the company of a European and Christian; besides, the corpse was +expected before long; so they partially filled up the hole as quickly as +possible. I was however satisfied with what I had seen, and a few days +after, having obtained permission from the Pasha, on some trifling +pretext, I employed them, with two other workmen, to make an excavation +opposite to the south-east corner of the _Haram_ (not being able to dig +farther to the north on account of the graves); and after two days' hard +work we found, at a depth of 11 feet, remains of a conduit resembling +the former, and, like it, 3-1/2 feet in breadth. The walls were 2-3/4 +feet high, but had been higher, the upper part having been destroyed. I +thought that these were more likely to belong to the conduit for blood +than the opening which I had seen in the Kidron valley, as that was too +low relatively to the upper and middle levels of the _Haram_, and too +far (being about 30 feet) above the bottom of the valley, which is now +much higher than in former times; for I can hardly think that the blood +and filth would be openly disgorged in a kind of cataract from the +sewer. What a quantity of water would in that case have been required to +transport the refuse of the victims from the front of the Temple, where, +because of the Jewish law, they could never have been suffered to +remain! Two points however had to be established, the proof of which was +far from easy, before I could assert that the conduit for blood flowed +into the Fountain of the Virgin; a place which might have been chosen, +both because it was at a considerable distance from the Temple, and +because the constant supply of water from the spring would carry on the +refuse into the Kidron. These were, (1) whether the lowest part of the +Fountain (which is reached by a long descending flight of steps) was +above the bed of the torrent; and (2) whether, in the interior of the +_Haram_, a conduit had existed, connecting the cistern beneath the rock +_Sakharah_ with that on the west of the Golden Gate, and had gone from +this point outside the wall, in a course agreeing with the traces I had +already discovered. Accordingly I hired some of the peasants of Siloam, +and made an excavation in the valley, to the east of the mouth of the +Fountain, and ascertained that its lowest point was about 5-3/4 feet +higher than the present bed of the torrent; which has been much raised +by the rubbish accumulated during so many centuries, that is not only +brought down by the stream itself from the north, but also falls in from +the sides of the valley during the rainy season. This determined, I made +a second excavation near the steps leading down to the Fountain, and at +a depth of 16 feet found part of the bottom of the original pool, and a +fragment of the side wall; and thus saw that the conduit might have +emptied itself directly into this pool, into which the water flowed from +the Fountain (situated 5 feet above it): whence the refuse descended +into the Kidron 4-1/2 feet below, and so was carried away by the +torrent. As the quantity of water supplied by the spring could never +have been very large, it occurred to me that on special occasions, when +a great number of victims was sacrificed, there would be some method of +increasing the torrent to enable it to sweep away the refuse quickly; +and at first I supposed that the water of the Pool of Bethesda was used +for that purpose, but afterwards I found that it was not the only means +employed. Had I been able, I should at once have followed up the +subject, by investigations in the interior of the _Haram_; but all my +attempts at that time proved ineffectual, and I was obliged to wait for +a more favourable opportunity. + +I obtained another clue to the positions of some of the cisterns within +the enclosure, during the summer months of 1857. I had frequently +visited the ground between the city-wall and the south-west part of the +_Haram_, in order to search for old coins, and was struck with the +luxuriance of the vegetation there, even in the driest weather. On +asking the farmer for an explanation of this, I obtained no other answer +than that it was due to God's grace. I did not of course doubt that this +was a sufficient cause; but at the same time I was desirous of finding a +more natural reason; the more so because, on certain evenings, I +observed that he drew a large quantity of water for his plants from a +cistern near the south-west corner of the _Haram_. I therefore asked him +repeatedly, and in all kinds of indirect ways, (as is necessary in +dealing with Arabs,) if his cistern contained much water; but he always +evaded my question, and I was never able to overcome his reticence or +outwit his craft. Even the offer of money produced no effect, and +subsequently he refused to allow me to examine its interior; still, +although baffled, I felt certain that this cistern was supplied from +another inside the _Haram_, which was the true 'God's grace.' I found +afterwards, as will be seen, that I was quite right in my supposition. + +I had also frequently remarked, during the rainy season, that the water +running down the street in the central valley flowed into a large +opening on the east side, level with the ground, to the south of the +fountain near the bazaar leading to the _Haram_. From this I inferred +that it found its way into the sewer which passes along the valley at a +lower level. Some old men, who had for many years been employed in the +repairs of the conduits, told me that I was right, and informed me at +the same time that from this opening it was possible to go along +underground and come out inside the _Haram_, by a conduit which entered +a cistern on the lowest plateau, situated on the west side near the +south end of the platform of the mosque _es-Sakharah_, and filled by the +water that had drained from the street. Such was the information that I +had obtained concerning the underground works of the Temple, up to the +end of 1857. It had not enabled me to arrive at any positive conclusion, +and I was puzzled about the conduit for blood, because the Rabbinical +writers made it begin beneath the sacred rock on the south-west, in +which direction I had not been able to discover any traces of it. + +During the winters of 1858 and 1859 no great quantity of rain fell at +Jerusalem, and the cisterns were in consequence not filled; so that in +the summer months there was a scarcity of water. Under these +circumstances Surraya Pasha ordered the conduit from Etham to be +repaired, in order that it might supply the _Haram_. I availed myself of +this circumstance, and entered many of the cisterns in that precinct, +which were either almost or quite dry, under the pretext of inspecting +them to see if they needed repairs. In the year 1856, when Kiamil Pasha +was governor, the Turkish engineer, Assad Effendi, had restored the +aqueduct, and I had assisted him as a volunteer, and had been able to +offer him some useful advice; which was the reason that I was now +employed. + +I will now relate my discoveries in connexion with this conduit, +commencing at the point where it enters Moriah. + +It comes down by the dyke or bridge crossing the Tyropoeon, and at the +present time empties itself into a small basin opposite to the entrance +of the _Mekhemeh_; but formerly it flowed into a large reservoir, still +existing in the lower part of that building, whence it went on into the +Temple. This chamber is now disused, and filled with rubbish. Thus by +their carelessness the Mohammedans lose the benefit of all the works of +antiquity in Jerusalem. From the above-named basin two conduits branch +out; the smaller and newer supplies water to the fountain in the middle +of the _Mekhemeh_, and then rejoins the larger and older one (2-3/4 feet +wide and 2-1/4 high), which, after passing under the _Bâb es-Salsala_, +enters the _Haram_, and then, after running some little distance +southward, turns off at an angle and goes to the fountain opposite the +mosque _el-Aksa_, whence it proceeds to the great cistern called _Birket +es-Sultan_. During the course of the work I observed that the quantity +of water which entered the latter reservoir was less than that which +arrived at the _Mekhemeh_; and on examination I found that the conduit +had formerly kept on to the south, instead of turning to the east, and +that its old channel still existed at that point, by which, although +very much dilapidated and full of earth, a large part of the water was +diverted into an ancient cistern, 29 feet deep, to the north of the +mosque of the Mogarabins. Into this I descended, and found 6 feet of mud +at the bottom; and after hard work ascertained that the water entering +it from the conduit went out by another made nearly on a level with the +floor, which was too much choked up to be passable, but which ran in the +direction of the cistern of 'God's grace,' at the south-west corner of +the _Haram_, so profitable to my friend the farmer. On the east side of +the cistern of the Mogarabin mosque is the mouth of a conduit, walled up +to a height of 3 feet from the vaulting. I saw some traces of it on the +surface of the ground, but was unable to excavate; however, it was +evident that it went into the _Birket es-Sultan_. We repaired the +above-named corner of the conduit at present used, so that all the water +might flow into the fountain of the Aksa, where it would have again been +diminished before reaching the _Birket es-Sultan_, if we had not +completely closed up the mouth of a very ancient conduit (3 feet in +width and height), running northward and communicating with the lower +chamber of the cistern below the _Kubbet es-Sakharah_, which was +entirely cut in the rock, and covered with large slabs as far as the +south staircase of the upper platform. The above remarks on the works in +connexion with the conduit from Etham are sufficient for my present +purpose, and I will now pass on to relate my discoveries in the +different cisterns and conduits into which I descended. + +The water in the _Birket es-Sultan_ (Prince's Pool) was, at the time of +my visit, a foot deep; the sides and vaulting, with the piers supporting +it, have been hewn with great pains out of the rock. It is 32 feet in +height. In the wall near the opening from the fountain are notches cut +in the rock, obviously to be used as steps. There are two apertures in +its west side, the one already mentioned as coming from the fountain, +which almost touches the vaulting; the other, 4 feet lower down and +blocked up, which is the end of the conduit coming from the cistern near +the mosque of the Mogarabins. There is another opening on the north +which I could not examine; it is under the vaulting. On the south-east, +4 feet below the vaulting, is an opening walled up, corresponding with +the great chamber at the south-east angle of the enclosure, as I was +able to ascertain by examining the north-west corner of that place, +after removing a quantity of earth. On the south is another opening (now +closed with Arab masonry), 3 feet above the floor, 3-1/4 feet wide and +3-3/4 high; the beginning of a conduit mainly excavated and vaulted in +the rock, but for a short distance built with stones and roofed with +large slabs[368], which I have traced with difficulty and labour along +its whole course quite close to the Fountain of the Virgin. At certain +points it is 5 feet wide and 3-3/4 high. It bears the marks of a very +remote antiquity, and is, in my opinion, contemporaneous with the +building of the first Temple. After discovering this, I found out the +Bedouin peasant, who had on a former occasion told me of its existence, +and he now did not refuse to be my guide along it, and, to tell the +truth, I should not have been able to get on without him at some places, +either from the accumulation of rubbish, or the earth, which every +moment threatened to fall in, besides the great number of rats, +reptiles, insects, and a thousand other nuisances which I encountered. I +have traversed this passage three times and carefully examined it, and +regret to say that from its age and tottering condition parts of it will +soon fall into ruins. It is a great misfortune that a country possessing +so much that deserves to be studied and preserved should be governed by +a nation so unwilling to partake of European civilization. + +We will now examine the cisterns to the north of the mosque +_es-Sakharah_[369]. On entering the northern one (29-1/2 feet deep) I +found the floor covered with wet mud to a depth of about 1-1/2 feet. At +the first glance I saw an opening on the south side, 3 feet wide and +4-1/2 high, half built up with Arab masonry, and after clearing away +some of the stones, earth, and mud that blocked it up, I passed through +it into another cistern in the same direction, 32 feet deep. These are +both very ancient, and are wholly excavated in the rock; and I have no +doubt that they belonged to the threshing-floor of Araunah the Jebusite. +On the south and on the east of the deeper cistern are the openings to +two passages; the first leads to a conduit (3 feet wide and 3-1/2 high), +descending from the west; but after going a few feet along the passage +we find another conduit of the same size as the above, coming from the +south, and leading upwards into a double cistern, as I had always +expected. The form of the lower chamber is an irregular sphere, about 22 +or 23 feet in diameter, its floor is covered deep with dry mud with a +few stones, (but rather too many for me to remove). On a careful +examination I saw, at a height of 12-1/2 feet, the mouth of the hole +leading to the upper chamber, about 6-1/2 feet in diameter and 4 feet +long, and the marble slab, which we have already mentioned as covering +it. This it was that the Santon struck with his foot or stick to prove +the existence of the 'Well of the Souls' below! There is a conduit on +the south, into which I entered through an aperture (now walled up), and +by a very gradual ascent reached the other extremity at the fountain +opposite to the mosque _el-Aksa_. The whole depth of the double cistern +is 28-1/2 feet below the top of the rock, and 23-1/2 below the pavement +of the mosque. The reader may imagine my joy at this result of my +labours, so long desired and so anxiously sought, and the gratitude I +felt to God for granting me this boon of ascertaining the position of +the altar of burnt-offerings, and the cisterns and conduits for blood +belonging to the ancient Temple; an ample recompense for all my toil. It +is true indeed that after a most careful search I have not been able to +find any opening on the south-west, in accordance with the statement of +the Rabbinical writers; but for this time I trust my own eyes, and that +suffices me. + +Returning to the nearer of the two cisterns on the north of the mosque, +I went along the conduit, rising to the west, for a distance of 12 feet, +beyond which I could not advance because of the soil in it. It runs +exactly in the direction of the cistern, which is situated very near to +the north-west corner of the net-work on the Plan[370]: this I +afterwards endeavoured to enter, but found it filled with earth. The +other opening, on the east side of the first-named cistern, is that of a +descending conduit (about 3 feet wide and high), which I traversed for +some distance, until I was eventually stopped by a number of obstacles; +however, I ascertained clearly that it went towards the east. + +The above observations are the results of three visits, in which the +short time I was allowed to stay, the frequent summons to depart, +coupled with not a few threats when I resisted, prevented me from making +farther investigations; but there is nothing more to be found there of +greater importance than the things I have mentioned. + +On entering the cistern, excavated in the rock on the west of the Golden +Gate, I found that it was 20 feet deep, and that on the west side was +the mouth of the conduit, which I partially examined from the cistern +north of the mosque _es-Sakharah_. I was able to pass along it for some +distance on this side also, and found it to be 3-1/4 feet wide and 3 +high. The only thing that now remained to be done was to find the +conduit leading out of the cistern towards the east: and after a long +search I had begun to despair, when a labourer, who was working at the +south side of the chamber, told me that there were signs of an opening +there; in a few minutes it was uncovered, and through it I entered into +another cistern, whose floor was 4 feet below the level of the former; +and on the east side of this was a conduit, 3-1/2 feet wide and 3 high, +running towards the _Haram_ wall, which must have communicated with that +the ruins of which I had found outside the east wall. I had thus +completed a chain of evidence, which established the course of the +conduit for blood, as laid down by me, at every point. + +Marks of another opening appeared above the soil on the south side of +the same chamber, but I had not time to uncover it, being recalled into +the first cistern by the discovery of another passage on its north side; +through this I entered a series of cisterns, on a level of 3-1/4 feet +above the central. In the last of these, at the north end, was the +entrance to a conduit (2-1/2 feet wide and high), which sloped upwards +in the direction of the Pool of Bethesda. It was impossible to follow it +up, but from its direction, level, and design (as I will presently +shew), it must have corresponded with the opening (walled up) to which I +called attention at the south-east corner of the above Pool. + +Before proceeding to draw my final conclusions from the above +observations, I must remark that it is untrue that the water flowing +down the street of the Tyropoeon valley, at the time of rain, supplies +the cistern (on the lowest level) at the south-west corner of the +platform of the mosque. This (24 feet deep and wholly excavated in the +rock) receives the water that has been used by the Mohammedans for their +purifications, which is carried off from it into the great sewer in the +Tyropoeon by a conduit on the west side. I shall discuss the springs +of the _Hammam es-Shefa_ more fully in another place; at present I will +only observe that the depth of the source is about 96 feet below the +surface, consequently it is impossible that its waters could flow into +the cistern of the _Sakharah_, and to the Fountain of the Virgin. + +The cistern in front of the east gate of the bazaar (excavated in the +rock and 26 feet deep) has a conduit on the south, supplying the +fountain for ablutions, near the Chapel of Moses. This is filled by the +droppings from the terrace-roofs of the buildings on the east and west +of it, as well as from the ground around it. On the platform of the +mosque, near its south-east corner, is a cistern in the rock, whose +depth I was unable to measure, as it is nearly filled up: from it two +small conduits (of no antiquity) run in opposite directions, their +openings being above the vaulting; that on the north-west catches the +water dropping from the mosque, that on the east is intended to drain a +part of the platform, but it is now useless; both are visible on the +surface of the pavement. Lastly, the conduit parallel to the west and +north walls of _el-Aksa_, was made to receive the water from that +mosque, and carry it into the _Birket es-Sultan_. The remaining +cisterns, plentifully scattered over the _Haram_, are for the most part +useless. We see then that, while the Mohammedans pay no regard to the +works of antiquity, they are equally careless about those which are of +the highest importance to themselves. + +Having thus narrated the investigations I have made and the information +I have collected, I will now state my conclusions on the connexions and +purposes of these underground works. + +They are as follows: (1) That from the time of the building of the +Temple the conduit from Etham has emptied itself into the cistern +beneath the _Mekhemeh_, whence the water was conveyed into the Temple by +a branching system of conduits, the chief of which I have traced. (2) +That the cistern north of the Mosque of the Mogarabins was used as a +reservoir to supply Ophel, where at the present time but few traces of +these works are found. (3) The conduit leading from this into the +_Birket es-Sultan_ must have been intended to carry away any excess of +water, and also by this means to relieve that which now goes to the +fountain, especially when it might be out of order. It is obvious that +these filled the _Birket es-Sultan_, and consequently the great +reservoir at the south-east corner of the _Haram_. (4) It is probable +that the numerous cisterns on the west side may also have been fed by +different conduits, but I had not sufficient time to ascertain this. If +not, they might have been supplied by the drainings from the courts, the +terrace-roofs of the cloisters, and the Temple itself[371]. (5) The +fountain opposite to _el-Aksa_ is Saracenic, but not the basin in which +it stands. This supplied water to the cistern under the altar of +burnt-offerings, to cleanse it from the blood that flowed down from +above. Hence the stream ran into the cisterns on the north, and thence +into the 'place of the ashes' on the east, which I believe to have been +the southernmost of the underground chambers; and from this it went +outside the wall, and after passing along parallel to it, finally +emptied itself into the pool near the Fountain of the Virgin. (6) In the +'place of the ashes,' in which they cast the crops of the birds, the +entrails of the victims, and other refuse, a larger quantity of water +would be needful, especially at times when the sacrifices were numerous; +and I suppose that the conduit from the Pool of Bethesda was constructed +to augment the supply; also I fully believe that if I had found time to +uncover the apertures on the south of the 'place of the ashes,' and on +the north of the _Birket es-Sultan_, and to examine the cistern on the +south-east of the _Sakharah_, I should have discovered that this cistern +(where I place the 'bronze sea') was supplied from the _Birket_, and +discharged its waters into the 'place of the ashes.' Was there then also +a conduit on the north of the great reservoir at the south-east corner +communicating with the opening on the south of the 'place of the ashes'? +I sought for it without success owing to the accumulation of earth, the +want of time, and the continual interference of the Mohammedan guardians +of the _Haram_, who believed, as I suppose, that I was seeking for +treasures, when, on the contrary, I was spending my savings. + +If, after the sewage had reached the pool by the Fountain of the Virgin, +there was still need of a further supply of water to sweep it away, that +could be brought by the long conduit from the south side of the _Birket +es-Sultan_, by the conduit at the east end of the Pool of Bethesda, and +especially by a conduit, which, starting from the west extremity of the +Bridge, runs down the Tyropoeon to the Fountain of the Virgin, along +which the whole stream from Etham might be diverted, if necessary. I +have not mentioned this before, but will give a fuller description of it +in another place. The conduit on the west slope of the Kidron valley, +nearly opposite to the Tomb of Absalom, which I saw discharging so much +water in 1857, may possibly have been another means of augmenting the +supply, and may very probably (although I have not been able to prove +it) communicate with the great reservoir at the south-east corner of the +_Haram_, and have occasionally been used to lay it dry. + +I have now arrived at the end of my researches on Mount Moriah, and +leave the subject, trusting that some other explorer may find more +frequent opportunities and more favourable circumstances for examining +this venerable spot; and thus carry further my discoveries, and correct +any errors into which I may have fallen. + + +FOOTNOTES: + +[171] Note I. + +[172] Note II. + +[173] Plates XI., XII. + +[174] Gen. xxii. 2-14. + +[175] Note III.; Gen. xxviii. 10-12. + +[176] Gen. xxxv. 1-15. + +[177] 2 Sam. xxiv; 1 Chron. xxi. + +[178] 1 Chron. xxii. 1. + +[179] Ant. VII. 13, § 4. + +[180] 2 Sam. xvii. 18; Jer. xli. 8. + +[181] Plate XXVII. + +[182] 1 Maccab. vi. 32, 33. + +[183] Note IV. + +[184] 1 Kings v. 18. + +[185] 2 Chron. ii. 13, 14. + +[186] 1 Kings v. 10, 11. + +[187] 2 Chron. ii. 16. + +[188] 1 Kings vii. 10, 11. + +[189] 1 Kings vi. 7. + +[190] Jewish War, V. 5, § 1. + +[191] Ant. VIII. 3, § 9; Jewish War, V. 5, §§ 1, 2. + +[192] 1 Kings vi. 1, 38. + +[193] Note V. + +[194] Ant. VIII. 3. + +[195] Palestine, pp. 289-292. + +[196] 1 Kings vi. 2, 3. + +[197] 1 Kings vi. 17-20; viii. 9. + +[198] 2 Chron. iv. 9. + +[199] 2 Chron. iv. 9; Ezek. xl. 17. + +[200] 2 Chron. iv. 1; Ezek. xliii. 13, 18. + +[201] Note VI. + +[202] 2 Chron. iv. 2, 5, 6. + +[203] 1 Kings vii. 38. + +[204] 1 Kings vii. 38; 2 Chron. iv. 6; Lev. i. 9. + +[205] 1 Kings vi. 5; Ezek. xlii. 13. + +[206] Lev. i. 5, 11, 16; xiv. 11, 12. + +[207] Ezek. xl. 40, 41, 42, 46. + +[208] 1 Kings xiv. 25, 26. + +[209] 2 Kings xiv. 13. + +[210] 2 Kings xii. 4-14; 2 Chron. xxiv. 4-14. + +[211] 2 Kings xxv. 9. + +[212] 2 Kings xxv. 11, 12, 22, 23; Jer. xl. 6. + +[213] Jer. xl. 12. + +[214] 2 Kings xxv. 25. + +[215] 2 Kings xxv. 26; Jer. xliii. 7. + +[216] 2 Chron. xxxvi. 22, 23; Ezra i. 1; v. 13. + +[217] Note VII. + +[218] Ezra vii. 8, 9. + +[219] Ezra iii. 8, 12, 13; Haggai ii. 3. + +[220] Ezra iv. 1-24. + +[221] Ezra iv. 24; v. 1, 2. + +[222] Ezra vi. 15-17. + +[223] Ezra vi. 3. + +[224] Haggai ii. 3; Ezra iii. 12. + +[225] Ant. XV. 11, § 1; Note VIII. + +[226] 1 Maccab. i. 20-23, 35, 36, 41; Ant. XII. 5, §§ 3, 4. + +[227] 1 Maccab. iv. 41-59; Jewish War, I. 1, § 1. + +[228] 1 Maccab. xii. 35-37. + +[229] 1 Maccab. xiii. 50-53. + +[230] Ant. XIII. 6, § 7; Jewish War, I. 3, § 3. + +[231] Ant. XIII. 11, § 2; Jewish War, I. 3, §§ 3-5. + +[232] Ant. XIV. 4, § 2; Jewish War, I. 7, §§ 1-3. + +[233] Ant. XIV. 16, § 2. + +[234] Ant. XV. 11, § 2. + +[235] S. John ii. 20. + +[236] S. Mark xiii. 1, 2. + +[237] Ant. XV. 11, §§ 3-7; Jewish War, V. 5 (the more minute account); +Note IX. + +[238] Palestine, p. 551. + +[239] Ant. XV. 11, § 3. + +[240] Ant. XIII. 6, § 7; Jewish War, V. 4, § 1. + +[241] Middoth, I. 3. + +[242] Ant. XV. 11, § 5. + +[243] Ant. XV. 11, § 3. + +[244] S. Matt. xxi. 12. + +[245] Note X. + +[246] Mischna, 2, § 6. + +[247] Mischna, 2nd part, Treatise _Yoma_, c. III., § 10; Babylonian +Talmud, same treatise, fol. 37. + +[248] Exod. xx. 25; Deut. xxvii. 5, 6. + +[249] Mischna, Treatise _Yoma_, c. III., § 1. + +[250] Ezek. xl. 39, 40. + +[251] 2 Maccab. ii. 4-7. + +[252] Mischna, Treatise _Yoma_, c. V., § 2, and the Rabbinical +traditions in the Babylonian Talmud, same treatise, fol. 54. + +[253] Jewish War, V. 5, § 1. + +[254] Note XI. + +[255] Jewish War, V. 5, § 2. + +[256] Ibid. V. 5, § 8. + +[257] Ant. XV. 11, § 7. + +[258] S. John ii. 20. + +[259] Jewish War, V. 5, § 8. + +[260] Jewish War, V. 11; VI. 1. + +[261] Note XII. + +[262] Jewish War, VI. 6, § 2. + +[263] Ibid. VI. 9, § 1; VII. 1, § 1. + +[264] Note XIII. + +[265] S. Matt. xxiv. 2. + +[266] Note XIV. + +[267] Note XV. + +[268] Note XVI. + +[269] Note XVII. + +[270] Note XVIII. + +[271] Note XIX. + +[272] Note XX. + +[273] Adamn. de Locis Sanctis, Lib. I. c. 1, ap. Acta SS. Ord. Bened. +Tom. III. Part 2, p. 304: "Cæterum in illo famoso loco, ubi quondam +Templum magnifice constructum fuerat, in vicinia muri ab oriente +locatum; nunc Sarraceni quadrangulam orationis domum, quam subrectis +tabulis et magnis trabibus super quasdam ruinarum reliquias construentes +vili fabricati sunt opere, ipsi frequentant; quæ utique domus tria +hominum millia simul (ut fertur) capere potest." + +[274] Note XXI. + +[275] William of Tyre, Book I. c. 12. + +[276] Note XXII. + +[277] Note XXIII. + +[278] Note XXIV. + +[279] Note XXV. + +[280] Note XXVI. + +[281] Plate XI. + +[282] S. John v. 2. + +[283] Plate XII. + +[284] Plate XIII. + +[285] Ant. XIII. 11, § 2; Jewish War, I. 3, § 3. + +[286] Note XXVII. + +[287] Page 20. + +[288] Plate XIV. + +[289] Jewish War, V. 4, § 2; 5, § 8. + +[290] Ibid. V. 11, § 4. + +[291] Ibid. V. 5, § 2. + +[292] Ibid. V. 5, § 8. + +[293] Ant. XV. 11, § 7. + +[294] Plate XV. + +[295] Plate XVI. + +[296] See Ch. I. p. 15. + +[297] S. John v. 2-9. + +[298] Plates X., XVIII. + +[299] Plate XVII. + +[300] Note XXVIII. + +[301] Plate X. + +[302] Plate XVIII. + +[303] Note XXIX; Page 7. + +[304] Plate XXIX. See the details of the Golden Gate. + +[305] Plate XXVII. + +[306] Plate XIX. + +[307] Note XXX. + +[308] Plate XX. + +[309] 2 Kings xxii. 14. + +[310] Note XXXI. + +[311] Plate XXI. + +[312] Ant. XV. 8, § 1. + +[313] Ant. XIV. 4, § 2; Jewish War, I. 7, § 2. + +[314] Jewish War, VI. 6, § 2; 8, § 1. + +[315] Page 23. + +[316] Guide d'Orient. Description des Environs du _Haram-es-Sherîf_. + +[317] Ant. XV. 11, § 5. + +[318] In my opinion, of the date of Herod. + +[319] Narrative of a Journey round the Dead Sea, Vol. II. pp. 100, 101, +(edited by Count E. de Warren). + +[320] Note XIII. + +[321] Plate LVIII. + +[322] Holy City, Vol. II. pp. 43, 392. Second Edit. + +[323] Note XXXII. + +[324] Plate XI. + +[325] Plate XIV. + +[326] Plate XIX. + +[327] Ant. XV. 11, § 5. + +[328] Ant. XV. 11, § 5. + +[329] Mejir-ed-din, Mines d'Orient, Vol. II. p. 95. + +[330] Plate XXIV. + +[331] De Edific. Justin., Lib. IV. c. 6. + +[332] Note XXXIV. + +[333] Eutychius, Annales, II. 246. Dielal-ed-din. Kemal-ed-din. +Mejir-ed-din. + +[334] The Holy City, Vol. I. p. 318. Second edition. + +[335] Note XXXV. + +[336] Plates XXIII., XXIV. + +[337] See M. de Vogüé's work, Les Églises de la Terre Sainte. + +[338] Plate XI. (Plan). + +[339] A variety of marble, generally of a dark brown colour, full of +fossil shells, exhibiting beautiful iridescent colours, due to the +nacreous matter of the shells; sometimes deep red or orange, when it is +called fire-marble. + +[340] Plate XXIV. + +[341] Plate XXV. + +[342] See details, Plate XXIX. + +[343] Ant. XV. 11, § 5. + +[344] De Ædificiis Justiniani, Lib. V. cap. vi. (Translated in Rev. G. +Williams' Holy City, Vol. II. p. 369). + +[345] Les Églises de la Terre Sainte, par le Comte Melchior de Vogüé, p. +272. He also quotes the Rev. G. Williams in confirmation of his opinion. + +[346] Jewish War, V. 3, § 1. + +[347] Jewish War, VII. 2, § 1. + +[348] Plate XI. + +[349] Plate XXVI. + +[350] Note XXXVI. + +[351] Note XXXVII. + +[352] Plate XXVII. + +[353] Les Églises de la Terre Sainte. + +[354] Plate XXIX. + +[355] Note XXXVIII. + +[356] Note XXXIX. + +[357] Note XL. + +[358] Note IV. + +[359] Notes XXXIX., XL. + +[360] Note XLI. + +[361] Pages 48, 49, 53, 54. + +[362] Levit. i. 11; Ezek. xl. 35-38. + +[363] See the enclosed space, covered with cross lines, about the Mosque +of Omar, Plate XI. + +[364] Mischna, 2nd part, Treatise _Yoma_, c. 3, § 1. + +[365] Ezek. xl. 39-41. + +[366] Levit. i. 16. + +[367] Jewish War, V. 11, §§ 4, 5. + +[368] See the Conduits, Plate X. + +[369] See the sections, Plate XII. + +[370] Plate XI. + +[371] Note XLII. + + + + +CHAPTER IV. + + THE CHURCH OF THE RESURRECTION, AND THE HOSPITAL OF S. JOHN, WITH + THEIR ENVIRONS--HISTORY OF THE HOLY SEPULCHRE FROM THE DEATH OF + CHRIST TO THE PRESENT TIME--GENUINENESS OF THE + SEPULCHRE--GOLGOTHA--EXAMINATION OF THE EXTERIOR AND INTERIOR OF + THE CHURCH--RUINS OF THE HOSPITAL. + + +After the publication of the works of the Rev. G. Williams, Professor +Willis, and M. de Vogüé, on the Church of the Holy Sepulchre, the fruits +of so much learning and research, it is perhaps rash to undertake to +write upon this subject; still, as I only enter upon its history so far +as it concerns things now to be seen and the explanation of my own +investigations, I venture to apply myself to the task; requesting the +reader, who is desirous of fuller information, to study the works of +these authors[372]. If I may happen to differ from them on any point, I +do not intend to discuss their theories, as that would occupy too much +time, but simply to state my own opinions, which have been formed after +a most careful examination of the place by different means, during a +period of eight years. + +My principal aim is to establish the genuineness of the site now +reverenced as the Sepulchre of Christ, and to point out the position of +Calvary in its neighbourhood; therefore I begin from this point; the +more so, because the identity of the present tomb is disputed, and those +who disbelieve in it lean especially on the assertions, that its +situation with reference to the ancient city disqualifies it; as it is +within the circuit of the walls, instead of without in accordance with +the Jewish law; and that every trace was swept away by the destruction +of the city by Titus, and the alterations of Hadrian; so that the +basilica of Constantine did not cover the real Sepulchre of Christ. We +proceed then to examine the question. + +The place of our Saviour's Passion undoubtedly was outside the city, in +accordance with the Jewish law, as is proved by the words of S. +John[373]: "This title then read many of the Jews: for the place where +Jesus was crucified was nigh to the city." According to the positions +which I have assigned to the walls, Golgotha was at that time without +the city, being very near the second line formed by the walls of Solomon +and Hezekiah; for it must be remembered that the third line was not yet +built, because King Agrippa I. did not arrive at Jerusalem till A.D. 42, +some years after the death of Christ, and the work commenced shortly +afterwards. The fact that a large crowd[374] followed our Saviour also +makes it probable that the place was near the city, for as the next day +was the Sabbath and 'an high day[375],' and as it was about the sixth +hour when He was brought forth to the people[376], and the ninth when He +died[377], they would have had to return home to prepare the Passover, +and not have had time to go any considerable distance. + +It is not indeed in my power to state the exact distance of Golgotha +from the city, but at any rate I am certain that it was far enough off +to comply with the legal requirement, that sepulchres should be 50 +cubits from the outside of the wall[378]. It was very probable that it +would not greatly exceed this distance, as the enraged populace would be +likely to place the cross where those in the city could glut their eyes +with the spectacle. + +In tracing the course I have assigned to the second wall, I sought for +its remains on the spot, being guided by the testimony of Josephus, +without any desire of adapting it to the present position of Calvary; +which indeed (if admitted) is in my favour, as shewing that there were +gardens outside my gate _Gennath_[379], in accordance with the words of +the Evangelist[380], "Now in the place where he was crucified there was +a garden; and in the garden a new sepulchre, wherein was never man yet +laid." Therefore I firmly believe that the body of the Redeemer was laid +in the sepulchre now under the great dome of the Church: but of the +locality assigned to Calvary I will state my opinion presently. + +As, however, there are some who contest this assertion, I must support +it by the aid of history and tradition. It is not probable that either +the Heathens, Jews, or Christians, would lose sight of the Sepulchre of +Jesus; for each, though from very different motives, would have reasons +for remembering the grave of One whose teaching had introduced a new era +into the world, and who had left behind Him such zealous preachers of +His doctrine. Now the body was obtained from Pilate and entombed by +Joseph of Arimathea and Nicodemus, men of note among the Jews, before +the eyes of the women who had followed our Saviour from Galilee[381]. It +is then not likely that this new tomb, belonging to one of them, would +ever be forgotten by any of these persons. We know that the Chief +Priests and Pharisees obtained a guard of soldiers to watch the +tomb[382], who were at the spot when Christ arose[383]. It is then very +improbable that the Sepulchre would be forgotten by that generation. The +number of the disciples augmented so rapidly in a very short time after +the Resurrection, that neither the sect itself, nor the life, history, +teaching, or prophecies of its Founder, could fail to be remembered. We +find it asserted in the Talmud[384], that the sentence against Jesus +Christ was proclaimed during forty days, and all who could bear evidence +in His favour were invited to come forward. If then this story be true, +it shews that the Jews did not deem Him an insignificant person. The +Romans, so much more highly civilized than the Jews, would be alive to +the important effect that the Saviour's teaching was likely to produce +on Paganism, and so would not regard His death and the place connected +with it, without interest. + +But even if the Jews and Gentiles had been slow to recognize the +importance of the new doctrine, surely its disciples would remember, and +at the least regard with affection, the scene of the redemption of the +human race by the death of their Lord and Master. Can we believe that S. +Paul would not have conducted his new converts to this spot on his visit +to Jerusalem; that S. James, first Bishop of Jerusalem, (murdered by the +plots of Ananus[385] A.D. 62,) and S. Peter, would be ignorant of it? +Consequently there can be no doubt that the spot must have been well +known when the Christians, led by Simon their Bishop, retired to +Pella[386], A.D. 66, to escape the troubles that were about to fall on +their doomed city. From A.D. 70 to A.D. 135, the year of Hadrian's +visit, Jerusalem lay in ruins; but still it was not entirely deserted, +since we know that he drove the inhabitants away, to make room for his +colony of Roman veterans[387]. The garrison which Titus had left on Sion +to prevent any attempts at rebuilding the city, would not have +interfered with those who came peaceably to dwell near the ruins of +their Temple, or the scenes hallowed by the Redeemer's Passion. Again, +from S. James, the first Bishop, to the days of Hadrian, and thence to +Constantine, there was an unbroken succession of Bishops of the Holy +City[388]; so that it is impossible that the situation of the Sepulchre +should not have been correctly indicated by tradition to the first +Christian Emperor. Indeed, from the time of Hadrian the place was marked +in a manner that prevented all possibility of mistake, as we know from +the words of Eusebius[389]. "For impious men in former time, or, to +speak more correctly, the whole race of demons working by their hands, +were eagerly desirous of overwhelming in darkness and oblivion that +sacred monument of immortality, to which the angel, flashing forth +light, descended from heaven; and rolled away the stone from the stony +hearts of those who thought that the living (Christ) was still lying +among the dead; bearing good tidings to the women, and rolling away from +their hearts the stone of unbelief in the life of Him Whom they sought. +This Cave of Salvation, then, certain godless and impious men purposed +to destroy utterly, deeming in their folly that they could thus conceal +the truth. So having gathered together from different quarters a great +quantity of earth, they covered up the whole; and then having raised it +on high and heaped it up with stones, they concealed the Divine Cave +under this large mound. Then as if nothing further remained, they in +very truth constructed above the ground a grim sepulchre of souls; +erecting a dark recess of the shades of the dead to the unchaste goddess +Aphrodite.... (The Emperor) inspired by a Divine Spirit, and having +invoked God's help, commanded that place to be cleansed, which had been +pointed out to him; hidden though it was by unclean materials cast upon +it by the plots of enemies; not overlooking it though delivered over to +oblivion and ignorance.... And as soon as the order was given, the works +of deceit were thrown from on high to the ground, and the buildings of +error were pulled down and destroyed, together with their statues and +demons. Nor did the vigour of the Emperor rest here, but he ordered the +materials, wood and stone, to be taken and thrown away as far as +possible from the place." + +From these passages it is evident that the Emperor Constantine found the +true position of the Holy Sepulchre, and erected over it a magnificent +basilica, which is described by the same author[390]. The work was +commenced A.D. 326, and completed A.D. 335. + +The present position of Calvary does not however rest upon the same +indisputable evidence as that of the Sepulchre, as there are no marks of +antiquity nor any other internal evidences to support its claim. The +testimony of the Evangelists proves beyond question that it was near to +the Sepulchre, but gives us no clue to its position relative to that +place, nor tells us whether it was on a plain or a hill, on smooth +ground or on rocky. It seems very probable to me that the Cross would be +erected on a hill, in order to make it as conspicuous an object as +possible. The present Chapel of the Calvary, wherein are shewn the hole +in the rock made for the foot of the Cross, and (at the distance of +three feet towards the south) the fissure caused by the earthquake, are +indeed on higher ground than the Sepulchre; but we must presently +examine whether this elevation is natural or artificial. I will now only +remark that the hole is too small to admit a post large enough to +support the weight of a man, and is perfectly round; though it is very +unlikely that the executioners would have taken the trouble to make the +shape so regular. The holes in which the crosses of the two thieves were +planted are not visible, although the Greek monk in charge of the +Calvary pretends to indicate their position. Abbé Mariti[391], who saw +them before Oct. 12, 1808, writes as follows: "The Arabs call the +penitent thief _Leuss-el-Jemin_, which means the thief on the right +hand; the position of the cross of the impenitent thief is on the left. +If then our Lord was crucified with His face to the north, the other two +crosses would not have been in the same line with His; and the distance +between the holes compels us to suppose that they were placed at right +angles to it." The remark is correct, and I assert, in addition, that +the present Calvary is not large enough for three crosses to stand upon, +being about nine feet wide; therefore I regard the story, at any rate so +far as concerns the two side crosses, as a mere fable. It is impossible +to examine the rock cleft by the earthquake, as it is only visible at +the bottom of an aperture about three inches wide and two feet deep; all +the rest of it being encased in slabs of marble. Its shape therefore +cannot be ascertained, but by examining the place we shall see how far +it extends. It is difficult to say whether the level floor, raised about +two feet above the pavement, on which are pointed out the hole that +supported our Lord's Cross, the positions of those of the two thieves, +and the fissure produced by the earthquake, is one entire block or not. +As the bare rock is only visible at the hole of the Cross and the +fissure, we should suppose that it extended over the whole plateau; but +a close scrutiny gives rise to the suspicion that these blocks have been +brought from some other position and placed here. The platform is only +about nine feet from north to south, and five from east to west, so that +it would not require a large mass. My opinion was confirmed by observing +that two piers are built on the north and south of the platform, and +that on the east there is a wall separating the Golgotha from some of +the rooms of the Greek convent, and on the west the inlaid pavement of +the chapel. This arrangement suggested to me that either the piers and +wall rested upon the rock, or that it was altogether wanting beneath. In +order to determine this point I examined the Chapel of Adam, situated +under the Golgotha, and reached by a descending staircase on the west. +Here it is not difficult to ascertain that the aforesaid piers and wall +go down below the level of the floor, and that the vaulting is entirely +constructed with masonry. The fissured rock, seen from above, is in the +east wall; it is protected by a strong iron grating, which renders it +impossible to see whether it goes down to the level of the floor, or how +far it extends to the north and south. This however may be inferred +without difficulty, for on the south there is a wall, and beyond that an +apartment belonging to the Greeks, and on the north, another wall, and +then the open space inside the Church of the Holy Sepulchre. On the west +is the stone pavement below the wall supporting the grating, which is +3-1/2 feet above the floor. The rock is therefore concealed, but so far +as we can see, it does not appear to descend to the floor. Hence the +only direction in which it could extend is the east; but here, on the +other side of the rock, which cannot be more than 5 feet thick, is a +wall separating it from an ancient staircase, belonging to the Greeks, +leading to Calvary. It seems then very improbable that after levelling +all around so completely, they would have left, to exhibit the mark of +the Cross, a fragment of rock which could not stand without the support +of walls. I cannot believe this, and am therefore compelled to suppose +that the rock is only a piece of the true Golgotha, brought and placed +here for the veneration of the faithful, no doubt at the time of +Constantine. A farther proof that this block is not in its natural +position, but has been brought from another place, is that its mineral +character differs from that of the native rock, preserved in its +original roughness in the remains of an ancient cistern in the Chapel of +the Invention of the Cross, a little to the east of Golgotha. + +Far better would it have been had S. Helena and Constantine left the +Sepulchre and Golgotha as they discovered them. Far more strongly would +the rough rock and the unaltered scenes have spoken to the heart, than +all the ornaments they lavished upon it, and those which now load and +disfigure it! From a mistaken notion of reverence they wished to adapt +the ground to the basilica, and not the basilica to the ground; thus +laying the foundation of all the doubts and contests that have since +arisen. + +For my own part I am inclined to think that Golgotha was on the west of +the Sepulchre, because we still see, at a little distance in that +direction, some elevated rock in the Syrian chapel, whence it gradually +rises westward up to the Christian bazaar, presenting the same mineral +(calcareous) character as the block on Calvary. If it were in this +direction, it would not only comply with the data of the Bible, and be +more than fifty cubits from the walls, but also be on high ground, so +that the execution could be seen from a large part of the city; whereas +the present site is too near the wall and is in a low situation, so that +even though we allow that the ground may now be somewhat lower than it +used to be, it would be visible to a very small portion of the city. As +there were no strong natural features to mark the spot, and as this side +has frequently been devastated during the sieges of Jerusalem, one place +may easily have been mistaken for another in the same neighbourhood, so +that the tradition on this point is of little value. Therefore, although +I do not positively assert that the present position of Golgotha is not +the true one, I think that the evidence of the place itself is not +sufficient to render its identity unquestionable. + +Let us now resume the history of the Sepulchre. Chosroes II., king of +Persia, A.D. 614, completely destroyed the magnificent buildings erected +by Constantine, took captive the Patriarch, and carried off the wood of +the Cross (kept as a relic at Calvary); but through the intercession of +the conqueror's wife, a Christian and sister of Maurice, Emperor of the +East, the faithful were allowed to rebuild the holy places. A monk, +named Modestus, successor of the Patriarch Zacharias, was enabled, by +the assistance of the Emperor Heraclius and John the Almsgiver, +Patriarch of Alexandria, to erect again four churches in less than +fifteen years; but they were much inferior to the originals. During this +period Heraclius conquered the Persians, recovered the Cross, and +replaced it in Calvary with his own hands. More than one description of +the sanctuaries built by Modestus has come down to us; the most +interesting is that of Arculf, who visited them; they were called the +Church of the Resurrection, the Church of Calvary, the Church of the +Invention of the Cross, and the Church of the Virgin[392]. These were +respected by the Khalif Omar, A.D. 636, but, according to the Mohammedan +chronicles, the conqueror took possession of the columns and other +marble ornaments which were lying about in the ruins of Constantine's +magnificent buildings, and ordered them to be worked into his new mosque +_es-Sakharah_. He granted freedom of worship to the Christians, and his +example was followed, if not surpassed, by Harûn er-Rashîd alone (A.D. +786-809), after whose death they suffered many persecutions; and their +churches, especially that of the Resurrection, were plundered and +greatly injured. The dome of that church was repaired by the Patriarch +Thomas, in the reign of El-Mamûn, with timber brought from Cyprus[393]. +Hakem Biamr-Illah, Fatimite Sovereign of Egypt and Syria, ascended the +throne A.D. 996, and began an incessant persecution against the +Christians. In the year 1010 he ordered the total destruction of the +churches of Jerusalem. His barbarous decree was executed, and all the +buildings erected by the Patriarch Modestus were ravaged and burnt[394]. +A second time the persecution was arrested by a woman, Mary, the mother +of Hakem, who obtained permission to rebuild the churches in the same +year that they were destroyed. The work was commenced, but proceeded +slowly for the want of funds; for when Daker or Daber, successor of +Hakem (through the influence of Romanus Argirius), ordered that the +injuries done to Jerusalem should be repaired, and that the wall should +be restored by the inhabitants at their own expense; and assigned one +quarter of the expense to be borne by the Christians, they were so +heavily burdened by this additional demand, that the works at the +churches were interrupted. It was not till A.D. 1048 that, with the help +afforded by Constantine Monomachus, the sanctuaries were completed +according to the plans of Modestus, in the reign of the Egyptian Khalif +Maabad-Abutamin Mustansir-Billa. They are described by Sæwulf, who +visited Jerusalem during the years A.D. 1102 and 1103[395]. + +The numerous pilgrimages, which were made annually to the Holy Sepulchre +after A.D. 1048, kindled a wide-spread enthusiasm in Europe and a strong +excitement against the Mohammedans, who had made themselves masters of +the Christian Holy Places. These found their vent in the Crusades, and +the soldiers of the Cross, who took possession of Jerusalem, acquired +the sanctuaries in the condition in which they had been left by +Constantine Monomachus; and it was not till A.D. 1130 that they united +them under one roof, nearly as they are at the present time[396]. The +Church of the Holy Sepulchre was not altered by Saladin on his regaining +the city, A.D. 1187. It was polluted and injured by the wild tribes, +especially by the Kharismian hordes, A.D. 1244; but in 1555 when Father +Bonifacius of Ragusa was Guardian of the Holy Land, the whole building +was repaired and the great dome restored at the expense of Philip II., +King of Spain; as appears from the testimony of some valuable documents +preserved by the Commissary General of Madrid and the convent of S. +Saviour at Jerusalem. About the year A.D. 1607, Sultan Ahmet I. ordered +the whole church to be destroyed, and a mosque erected on its +foundations, by a decree inflicting the punishment of death upon all who +attempted to prevent its execution. One man alone had the courage to +raise his voice against it, Girolamo Capello, Venetian Ambassador at +Constantinople, whose nation, from its powerful navy, was more highly +respected by the Sultan than any other. By his firmness and energy, he +got the order revoked, and the punishment denounced against all who +tried to carry it into effect, or inquire into the reason of its +revocation. About a century later the great dome was again restored by +help of contributions from Spain. The cost would appear incredible, if +it were not established by authentic documents, and the chronicles of +the Holy Land, still preserved in the convent of S. Saviour at +Jerusalem. These state that, in order to obtain a firman from the Porte +(which was opposed and retarded during 21 years by the Greeks, who hoped +to procure it for themselves), and to complete the restoration 400,000 +colonnati (about £92,000) were expended. + +A firman was obtained from the Porte, A.D. 1757, by the Greeks, +excluding the Latins, partly or wholly, from some of the sanctuaries, +including even the Holy Sepulchre, which was sold to the Greeks by the +Grand Vizier Regib Pasha. France had already proclaimed her intention of +protecting her Church in the East, and the Chevalier de Vergennes was +charged with maintaining the rights of the Latins at Constantinople; +but, notwithstanding, the places then lost were never wholly recovered. +On the 12th October, 1808, a great part of the church was consumed by a +terrible fire, caused by the Armenians; and the Greeks obtained +permission from the Porte to repair the damage. An ignorant architect, +who has had the audacity to record his name, which however I will not +help to perpetuate, completed the work of destruction, by pulling down, +or covering up, the interesting remnants of Byzantine and Gothic +architecture, which the flames had spared. The tombs of the Latin Kings +of Jerusalem (of which I will speak presently) were demolished by the +Greeks on this occasion; who however try to make us believe that they +were destroyed by the fire. + +I conclude this sketch of the history of the building, by stating that +the great dome is in danger of falling in[397]. Year by year it becomes +more and more dilapidated, and the large holes in it, caused by the want +of a covering of lead[398], admit the wind and the rain, so that the +floor below is sometimes flooded to a depth of five or six inches (as +happened in 1857 and 1860), causing so much annoyance to the Priests, +that the services have to be performed under umbrellas, and rendering it +impossible for the congregation to remain without injury to their +health. It has long been hoped that France, the official protector of +the place, would put a stop to these trials, and undertake the work of +repair: and in 1862, France, Russia, and the Porte, came to an +agreement, and the works appeared to be on the point of commencing, as +the architects of the three nations at Jerusalem had consulted together; +but some disputes on the question of ownership arose between the Greeks +and Latins, and the whole matter has been adjourned. While the question +is slowly dragging on at Constantinople, it is far from improbable that +the dome will fall, and it will be a very fortunate thing if this happen +without loss of life. + +I will now accompany the reader round the outside and inside of the +church, and point out and remark upon the chief objects of interest +connected with the building; referring him to the Plans and their +description for those of less importance[399]. + +Before the façade of the church is an oblong open court[400] paved with +large slabs of Palestine breccia, which are all cracked, apparently by +the action of fire; no improbable cause, when we remember how many +Christians have suffered martyrdom by burning on this spot[401]. On the +south side is a number of bases of columns arranged symmetrically, +shewing that an arcade, if not a porch, formerly stood here. A flight of +three steps leads down from these, and the rest of the area is +perceptibly lower than the ground on the south, west, and north, and +very slightly than that on the east. I remark this to shew, that as the +place is in a hollow, it might have been used for a garden, but not for +public executions. Below the pavement is the rock, which lies at the +same level under the interior of the church, and under the floors of the +buildings on each side, east and west. The cistern at the south-east +corner of the place is a stronger proof that it was not used for +executions. The court is bounded on the west side by the chapels +belonging to the Greek convent of S. Constantine; and at the north-west +corner is the bell-tower, erected between the years A.D. 1160 and A.D. +1180, and mutilated A.D. 1187 by the loss of the lantern which +originally surmounted it. The Greeks have made rooms in it, which are +now occupied by the monks[402]. On the east side is the Greek convent of +S. Abraham; on the ground-floor of which are two chapels, one belonging +to the Armenians and the other to the Abyssinians: through the latter +the roof of the chapel of S. Helena, on the east, can be reached. Inside +the convent of S. Abraham the Greeks point out to the credulous the spot +where Melchizedek planted the first olive; on which one of those trees +is still growing. They also shew the spot where he made the first bread, +and that on which Abraham offered up his son Isaac. + +The architecture of the south façade of the church belongs to the +twelfth century, and the work was evidently left unfinished. From what +remains it is difficult to deduce the architect's original plan. The +position of the bell-tower might lead us to suppose that there would be +another corresponding with it on the opposite (eastern) side; but then +the Chapel of the Agony, with its precious contents, would be covered +over, together with the part below the Golgotha, which must of necessity +have been mutilated, if, as would seem probable, other doors had been +made into the church. Let us however examine the building which is still +left to us. On the level of the ground are two doorways, and above them +two windows with arches similarly pointed[403]. The arches of the +doorways are composed of three archivolts finely carved, which spring +from three columns of verd antique, placed in the re-entering angles of +the piers of each door[404]. The capitals of these columns, which are +skilfully executed, are a Byzantine imitation of the Corinthian order. +The design of the cornice running along the top of the whole façade is +also ancient. The bas-reliefs on the lintels of the tympana of the two +doors are too well wrought to be the work of the twelfth century. The +profiles of the figures on that above the western door are admirably +executed, as well as their attitudes; they represent several scenes from +the Gospels, as the entry into Jerusalem, the raising of Lazarus, and +the Last Supper. The outlines of the leaves, flowers, fruit, birds, and +men, on the other, are exquisite. The eastern doorway is built up; the +other is the only entrance into the church, and consequently accidents +frequently happen there during the Easter season[405]. + +By the side of the closed doorway is a staircase leading into the Chapel +of the Agony, which is a square in plan, and is built against the south +wall of the Calvary, communicating with that sanctuary by means of a +window which has replaced an ancient door. This chapel was formerly a +small ornamental terrace-roof, which served as an antechamber to the +Calvary. Tradition asserts that the Emperor Heraclius brought back the +true Cross into the church through this entrance. The Latins believe +that the Virgin Mary remained upon this spot during the Passion of her +Son whence its name is derived. The Greeks call it the Throne of S. +Helena, but cannot give any reason for doing so. The rock does not lie +immediately underneath this chapel, but there is a small oratory, +dedicated to S. Mary of Egypt, which proves that the rock is not met +with in any place round the present Calvary, but only on its summit. In +the lower cornice of the Chapel of the Agony, towards the entrance to +the oratory, is a carving of two four-footed animals (ideal monsters), +which, in my opinion, is a _chef d'oeuvre_, and, like all the other +ornaments on the outside of this chapel, well worth notice. + +Besides the two doors in the above façade, the church had another on the +west opening into Patriarch Street (the Christian bazaar). This, owing +to the difference in level, gave access to the lower gallery of the +great rotunda; it is now closed up. It is first mentioned by Edrisi, +A.D. 1154, that is, some years after the choir had been finished by the +Crusaders[406]. There is no doubt that it was made between the years +A.D. 1140 and A.D. 1150. It is ornamented by two columns with capitals, +from which springs a pointed arch closely resembling those in the south +façade[407]. There appears to have been another entrance from the +terrace of the Abyssinians on the east side, because a doorway can be +seen there, apparently of the time of the Crusades, which is now built +up. + +I may also remark that the terrace-roofs over the church are divided (as +is shewn by the Plan) between the Greeks and the Mohammedans, and that +the latter have the right of entering the gallery under the dome in the +great rotunda. The Latins are now anxious to close the door +communicating with the roof, but the Greeks are unwilling to allow it. +Hence have arisen disputes that will greatly retard the repair of the +dome, which at one time seemed likely to be commenced without delay. +Most certainly the terrace-roofs of the church ought not to be private +property, but should wholly belong to the edifice; and when this change +is brought about, which will not be done without much difficulty and +great firmness, there will be fewer dissensions, and the church will not +be allowed to fall to ruin. But it is now time to take my reader within +the building. + +On entering the church we see on the left side of the door a chamber +constructed of masonry, which is used as a _divan_ by the Mohammedan +guard, placed there to keep the keys and put down any tumults that may +arise in the building. The presence of these men not unfrequently hurts +the feelings of the Christian pilgrim, who is indignant at finding +Mohammedans in possession of the Holy Sepulchre, and is the more +offended by seeing them sitting there at their ease, gossiping, smoking, +and drinking the coffee supplied to them by the various religious +communities occupying the church. To the stranger, who is unacquainted +with the real state of affairs, it must, I allow, appear most unseemly; +but a longer residence in the country would shew him that it is in +reality wisely ordered, because these men do not enter into the disputes +which so frequently arise between the different sects of Christians, and +thus are able to appease strifes, and act with a moderation and +forbearance, which would be impossible to any member of the contending +parties. Indeed, there is much need of these at the Easter season, when +the pilgrims are thronging to or from the different services. Formerly +these guards demanded a considerable fee for admission into the +Sepulchre; and not only the religious communities resident in the city, +but also strangers who came to visit the Holy Places, were obliged to +pay a certain sum. The whole of the money thus received was applied to +the support of the poor in the Hospital of S. Helena (of which I shall +presently speak). The charge is however no longer made, but they are +glad to receive a small present from any one who enters the church at an +unusual time. This they never refuse, provided they can obtain the +consent of one of the religious communities on the spot. + +On the right of the entrance is a staircase leading up to the Calvary, +built against the door which is walled up from the outside: it belongs +to the Latins, but they have no power to prevent any one from using it. + +A little further on is the entrance of the so-called Chapel of Adam +(belonging to the Greeks), which, as I have already said, is situated +under the north wing of the Calvary, and shews, at its east end, the +fissure in the rock rent at our Saviour's death. Zuallardus, who visited +Jerusalem A.D. 1586, states that this place was dedicated to S. John, +but no one at the present day knows when the change was made. An altar, +built of masonry, stands in the middle of the chamber at the east end. +On its south side is a small hole, into which the pilgrim inserts his +hand to touch the rock enclosing the skull of Adam, while a Greek monk +relates to him that it was brought there by Noah, before the Flood +began. The whole chamber is worth notice, because before the +conflagration of 1808 it contained the tombs, which covered the dust of +Godfrey of Bouillon and his brother Baldwin[408]. These monuments were +removed by the Greeks, with the intention of destroying a conspicuous +and obvious proof that the Sepulchre had once belonged to the Latins +alone. The remains of the Latin kings however were not profaned, but +were deposited, (as I was informed,) in a recess in the chamber on the +south of the chapel under the south wing of the Calvary, where now the +Greek guardian of the Sepulchre sits to receive the offerings of the +pilgrims, and present them in return with trifles blessed within the +walls of the Sanctuary. It is to be hoped that when Russia and France +have completed the restoration of the dome, the Greeks will bring them +forth from their hiding-place, and erect over them new monuments bearing +the old inscriptions. + +On quitting the Chapel of Adam we find, at a short distance, a slab +rising about six inches above the ground, called the Stone of Unction, +because it is believed that on it the body of our Saviour was wrapt up +with spices for burial. According to the monks, the actual stone cannot +be seen, as it has been covered up to preserve it from the pilgrims, who +would have carried it away piecemeal for relics. The account is +plausible; but it is hard to understand how the spot could have been +identified after the great changes wrought by the savage vandalism of +Hadrian. Sanutus[409], who wrote in the fourteenth century, mentions +this stone, but places it in the middle of the choir belonging to the +Greeks. It is the joint property of the Latins, Greeks, and Armenians, +who keep lamps and tapers constantly burning, that bear the devices of +the community to which they belong. + +Passing over some unimportant objects, which are sufficiently described +by their titles on the Plan, we enter the western part of the church, in +which is the rotunda supporting the great dome[410]. This, as I have +already said, is an example of the usual bad taste of the Greeks at +Jerusalem. Its heavy and clumsy architectural features are not worth a +description, and it is to be hoped that at the next restoration of the +church, this structure will be replaced by one more worthy to cover the +Holy Sepulchre. On the ground-floor of the rotunda are some chambers +occupied by the monks of the different communities to which they belong, +together with three passages leading up to the lower gallery, and +another going to the so-called tombs of Joseph and Nicodemus. The two +galleries above are divided among the different religious communities. +The whole of the lower one, except the three central arches on the west, +belongs to the Greeks, and the greater part of the upper to the Latins; +the Armenians possessing the last six arches towards the east on the +south side. The property of each party is marked by pictures attached to +the pillars. Above the upper gallery are windows, some grated, the rest +built up. The former look upon the terrace-roof, which belongs to the +Greeks, and are employed by them; the latter used to communicate with a +chamber in the building called the Hospice of Saladin; these were closed +not many years ago. The dome is surrounded by a gallery belonging, as I +have said, to the Greeks, and at the top, in the middle, is a circular +opening enclosed by an iron grating, to prevent the Mohammedans who +occupy the neighbouring houses from throwing anything into the building. +However, the miracle-mongers relate that Jesus Christ was recalled to +life from this place, and that no human power can ever close it up. +Certain it is, that if the architect at the forthcoming restoration does +not find some other means of admitting air and light into the dome, (no +difficult task,) he will be obliged to leave an opening there, at any +rate not less than the present; and the rain will continue to flood the +pavement below, and injure the health of the Priests and acolytes who +pass their time there. In the middle of the rotunda is the monument of +the Holy Sepulchre[411], also an ugly Greek edifice of the date 1810. It +is cased with Palestine breccia of a yellowish and reddish colour, which +is found abundantly in the neighbourhood of Jerusalem; it takes as good +a polish and produces the same effect as marble. A small rude chapel, +belonging to the Abyssinians, rests against the west end of the +building; it was erected between the years 1537 and 1540, when the +Franciscan fathers, then the sole guardians of the Sanctuary, were +prisoners at Damascus. At the east ends of the north and south walls of +the monument are two oval openings; these are chiefly used in +distributing the Holy Fire on Easter Eve; that famous and scandalous +ceremony by which the Greeks and Armenians profane the Redeemer's Tomb. +The upper part of the monument is a flat terrace-roof, and at the west +end of it is a small tasteless dome, covering an opening that +communicates with the lower chamber of the Sepulchre; this, as well as +the other at the east end, has doubtless been made for ventilation and +for the escape of the smoke from the lamps and tapers, which are kept +constantly burning within: but, as every object in the church must have +its legend, the monks relate that from the first Christ was raised, and +by the second the angel departed, who had rolled away the stone from the +Sepulchre. Round the terrace-roof are holes, by which the rain, falling +from the opening above, runs off by drains into a cistern inside the +Latin convent, to the north of the rotunda. Before the door are a number +of standards for candles, belonging to the Latins, Greeks, and +Armenians. In the upper part of the front at the centre, is a picture +belonging to the Latins, who, as first, have the right of performing +service inside the Tomb. The Greeks, as second, are on the right, and +the Armenians on the left. On great solemnities the different +communities adorn the space allotted to them with gold and silver lamps +and flowers, so as nearly to cover the whole façade. A large awning is +extended over the building, and whenever a new one is necessary, as was +the case in 1859, these three communities share the cost and divide the +old one. With their portions the Greeks and Armenians recover the +greater part of their contributions from the Oriental pilgrims, who are +most anxious to possess a scrap. + +We will now proceed to examine the interior of the Sepulchre. Directly +on entering the door we see on either hand two staircases, constructed +in the thickness of the east and side walls, and leading to the +terrace-roof. That on the north belongs solely to the Latins; the other +to the Greeks, who however are bound to allow the Armenians to use it on +certain occasions. Within are two chambers; the eastern is called the +Chapel of the Angel, the western is the actual Tomb in which our Lord's +body was laid. The former of these two is undoubtedly built upon the +rock, which I saw and touched immediately under the marble pavement, +when some slight repairs were being made. Its walls, where they can be +seen in the side staircases and the two apertures mentioned above, are +of masonry, but the other parts are concealed by a casing of slabs of +Palestine breccia. In the middle of this outer chamber is a small +pedestal, which (according to tradition) marks the spot where the angel +sat after rolling away the stone from the Sepulchre[412]. In the +building are a great number of lamps, supplied by the Latins, the +Greeks, and the Armenians; two only belong to the Copts. The upper part +of the walls of the Tomb itself is also masonry, but the lower is formed +by the native rock. I have been able to ascertain this for myself at two +points; one at the small entrance-door, which is entirely hewn in the +rock, and the other in the interior of the Chapel of the Abyssinians, in +which, after purchasing the privilege, I was on several occasions shut +up, so that I worked undisturbed, and was able to see the rock at a +height of about four feet above the ground. As the interior of the +building is covered with slabs of marble, it is at the present time +quite impossible to succeed in discovering the rock from within; and I +did not attempt it, being satisfied of its existence by the testimony of +most trustworthy witnesses who had seen it during the repairs in 1808 +and 1810. One of these was the Franciscan father Tryphon, who died at +Jerusalem in 1857, at the age of 86; another was an aged Greek monk, an +Archimandrite, of the great convent of S. Constantine. From the +information supplied by them, and from my own observations, I have drawn +the line of the rock in the section-plan of the present tomb. In +confirmation of the accuracy of my informants, themselves men of +education, I can bring forward the following extracts from the accounts +of various authors and pilgrims in former times. Arculf[413], who saw it +in the seventh century, thus describes it: "It was a small round room, +hewn out of the solid rock, which could contain nine men standing in +prayer side by side. The roof was about a foot and a half above the +head of a tall man; on the east side was a small door. The tomb, +properly speaking, was hewn in the north wall of the room. It was formed +by a bed seven feet long, large enough to hold a man stretched upon his +back, placed under a low recess hewn in the rock. It might be termed a +sarcophagus open on one side, or a small grotto with the opening to the +south; the lower edge of the bed was three palms above the ground. The +rock was red veined with white, and still bore the marks of the tools by +which it had been hewn out." From the numerous notices of it during the +twelfth and thirteenth centuries, I select that of Willibrand of +Oldenburg[414]. "The rock ... which, still uninjured, and cased with +marble, is exposed in three places to the touch and kisses of pilgrims." +It was visited during the fifteenth century by Breydenbach, who writes +as follows[415]: "The cave, in which is the Lord's Sepulchre, is wholly +cased with marble on the outside, but inside is the native rock, just as +it was at the time of the burial." In the beginning of the present +century it was seen by Abbé Mariti, before the fire of 1808; his +account[416] agrees with those just quoted, and confirms the testimony +given me by eye-witnesses. + +It seems then impossible to deny that the Tomb of Christ still exists +upon the traditionary site, and that it in all respects resembles one of +those sepulchral chambers, hewn in the rock, which can be seen at the +present day in the neighbourhood of Jerusalem[417]; in which the corpse +is extended upon a shelf, under an arched niche, excavated in one of the +side walls of the tomb, some little distance above the ground. The arch +above the shelf is indeed no longer to be seen, because it has been +destroyed, perhaps during Hakem's reign: but the two side walls, which +supported it at the head and foot of the shelf, still remain, and, +encased with white marble, form the altar at which the Priests celebrate +mass. It would be more satisfactory to the incredulous if this covering +were removed, but if this were done the rock itself would not long +remain. Each traveller and pilgrim would practise every possible device +in order to obtain a fragment as a relic; and it would be a hard matter +to persuade the Eastern pilgrims, and above all others, the Americans, +to keep their hands off it. + +But still, although the rock is concealed, a strong proof of the +existence of a tomb is afforded by the shape of the entrance, which has +every appearance of the doorway of a sepulchral chamber, and closely +corresponds with that leading to the Tombs of the Kings, which was +closed with a large elliptical stone, still to be seen on the spot[418]. +I consider however that its height has been since increased, in order to +make a more convenient entrance; because it is now higher on the east +than on the west, while in all the ancient sepulchres still existing the +interior is higher than the exterior. We may then observe with what +rigorous exactness the words of the Evangelists are verified by the +appearance of the Tomb. S. Matthew[419] relates that an angel "_rolled_ +back the stone from the door," using the precise word which would +express the way in which the stone now at the Tombs of the Kings would +have to be handled. S. Mark[420] relates that when Mary Magdalene and +Mary the mother of James were on their way to the Sepulchre to embalm +the Lord's body, they asked among themselves, "Who shall _roll us away_ +the stone from the door of the Sepulchre?" and that, "when they looked, +they saw that the stone was rolled away, _for it was very great_; and +entering into the Sepulchre they saw a young man _sitting on the right +side_," who shewed them the place where Jesus of Nazareth had been laid. +The stone certainly would be _very great_, if it resembled that at the +Tombs of the Kings; and without entering the sepulchral chamber they +would be unable to see the angel and the place where the Lord had been +laid, (on the _right_ side of the Sepulchre where it is now shewn,) both +by reason of the thickness of the wall, in which the doorway was made, +and because the niche was rather on one side of it. S. Luke[421] also +speaks of the rolling away of the stone, and the necessity of entering +the chamber before they could see that the Lord's body was not there. S. +John[422] also mentions that the stone was removed, and describes the +manner in which S. Peter and the other disciple looked into and entered +the Sepulchre; just as would still have to be done, if the door had not +been enlarged. Had not a pious vandalism been allowed to work its will +from the age of Constantine to the present day, no one would be able to +deny the existence of the Sepulchre; for all objections would be met by +the presence of the outer chamber, which was also excavated in the rock, +as in many examples still remaining in the neighbourhood of the city: +but unhappily those parts of it which had escaped the injuries done by +Hadrian, were completely swept away at the time when the first basilica +was built, in order to isolate the Tomb itself, and exhibit it as an +object of veneration in the centre of the rotunda. This can be inferred +from the words of Eusebius[423]: "Is it not surprising to see this rock +standing alone in the centre of a level space, with a cavern inside it?" +S. Cyril, in the fourth century, writes more expressly; "For 'the cleft +of the rock' he calls the cleft which was then at the door of the +Salutary Sepulchre, and was hewn out of the rock itself, as it is +customary here in the front of sepulchres. For now it appears not, the +outer case having been hewn away for the sake of the present adornment; +for before the Sepulchre was decorated by royal zeal there was a cave in +the face of the rock[424]." Therefore, from the above evidence, we may +draw the following conclusions: that an ancient Jewish sepulchre exists +at this place, that over it Hadrian erected a temple to Venus, and that +consequently this is the identical tomb in which the body of our +Redeemer was laid. + +Within the Sepulchre itself, above the shelf, are three paintings; that +in the centre belongs to the Latins, that on the right to the Greeks, +and that on the left to the Armenians. In front of these the three +communities place a certain number of tapers, vases of flowers, crosses, +and other objects; and when they differ about the arrangement of these +things, or of the numerous lamps which hang in the middle of the vault, +that is to say, whenever one of the parties transgresses in the +slightest degree the limit assigned to it by the Sultan's firman, or the +agreements between the Convents, a quarrel soon breaks out; clamour, +yells, and threats, are heard in the Sanctuary itself; and the +combatants sometimes do not separate without broken bones. These scenes, +however, are now becoming more unfrequent. + +In the middle of the west side of the rotunda is the entrance of a +chapel belonging to the Syrians, and through the south wall of this we +pass into a small grotto, hewn in the rock, in which are some tombs said +to have been made by Joseph of Arimathea, after he had given up his own; +in these he and Nicodemus are said to have been buried. On the truth of +the tradition I express no opinion; but certainly the existence of the +rock above the level of the ground, and still more the presence of the +tombs, is a strong proof of the genuineness of the Holy Sepulchre. Both +here[425], and in the neighbouring chapel, the rock on rising from the +floor mounts towards the west; thus indicating the lower level of the +excavations round the Sepulchre. The tombs shew that the place must have +been outside the walls before Agrippa traced out his new line on the +north, because, as I have already observed, the Jewish law did not allow +them to be among dwelling-houses. The antiquity of these tombs is placed +beyond question by their shape, and by the marks left by the tools of +the workmen who excavated them, which perfectly correspond with those +that may still be examined in the numerous burying-places in the +neighbourhood of Jerusalem. I must not omit to mention that two of the +above-named tombs are very small; these have been begun, and left +unfinished before reaching their full size; and any one who will take +the trouble to visit the Tombs of the Judges[426] will see that they +were excavated and completed in the same manner as these so-called +Sepulchres of Joseph and Nicodemus, and that the same kind of +instruments were used, of which I shall presently speak more +particularly. I mention the Tombs of the Judges, because sepulchres may +there be seen in different stages, finished and unfinished, of which +there is no other example near Jerusalem. + +To the east of the rotunda is the Chapel of the Greeks[427], forming the +great nave of the church, in which the rock is found immediately below +the marble pavement. Its most remarkable feature is its regularity and +uniformity. On the east is the Iconostasis, dividing the 'Holy of +Holies' from the rest of the church. This, together with the side walls, +is profusely gilded and covered with pictures and other ornaments, +producing at first a striking effect, which however is soon effaced by +the bad taste, evident not only in them, but also in the two Patriarchal +thrones made of Palestine breccia. Above the choir rises a dome +supported by four massive piers; a rude iron gallery runs round the +drum, and it is lighted by four windows on the level of the Greeks' +terrace-roof. The exterior of the drum is crowned by a cornice, +apparently supported by little corbels ornamented with various incised +carvings, for which many have sought symbolical interpretations; but, in +reality, they are only fanciful Græco-Saracenic decorations. All the +outer surface of the dome is covered with strong plaster to render it +weather-proof; and a small spiral staircase winds outside to the summit, +whence a fine panoramic view may be obtained, which gives the visitor a +good idea of the topography of the ancient city. Inside the church a +small pedestal rises from the middle of the pavement containing a stone +ball encircled by crossing hoops, which is believed by the Eastern +Christians to be the centre of the world. The idea that Jerusalem was at +the centre of the universe has long prevailed among both Jews and +Christians, founded, perhaps, on the words of Ezekiel[428], "Thus saith +the Lord God, This is Jerusalem: I have set it in the midst of the +nations and countries that are round about her." It is alluded to by +Dante[429]: + + Now that horizon had the sun attained, + By the high point of whose meridian clear + Jerusalem with golden light is stained. + +The Greeks, undoubtedly, placed the pedestal to mark the centre of the +Church of the Resurrection. + +Returning into the rotunda, and going out of it towards the north, we +find the Latin Chapel, at the place where our Lord is said to have +appeared to Mary after his Resurrection. It stands above the general +level of the church; and the rock is found below its pavement, extending +northward under the Latin Convent, where it rises toward the west; so +that if the buildings were removed, it would be seen united to that at +the tombs of Joseph and Nicodemus; thus affording another proof of the +levelling made around the Sepulchre by Constantine. Inside the chapel an +altar is pointed out, containing a fragment of the column, to which, +according to tradition, our Lord was bound when He was scourged. By a +door on the north we enter the Convent of the Franciscans, the guardians +of the Holy Places. It can accommodate twelve monks and some pilgrims; +but is unhealthy, being damp and ill ventilated. + +Leaving this chapel, and passing along the north aisle of the church, we +find on the east, behind the Greek Church, a staircase leading down into +the Chapel of S. Helena[430], belonging to the Armenians, the south side +of which is partly formed by the rock. From the middle of it rises a +dome, supported by four columns (of Egyptian granite) with Byzantine +capitals[431], and surrounded by a terrace-roof occupied by the huts of +the Abyssinians. Near the north-east corner of the chapel is a wooden +altar, concealing a doorway, now built up; it communicated with a +building called the Prince's House, which I shall presently notice. In +the south-east corner is a kind of little balcony (erected by the +Armenians in the 17th century), where, according to a false tradition, +S. Helena stood while the workmen were seeking for the cross in the +neighbouring cistern. This chapel was united to the main building by the +Crusaders. In the south wall is a staircase, the steps of which are hewn +out of the rock, though they are now covered up with stone slabs; it +leads into a vault in which the Saviour's cross is believed to have been +found, together with those of the two thieves, after lying hid there for +293 years. The legend is strongly supported by very ancient Eastern +traditions. The interior, entirely excavated in the solid rock, +corresponds in form with the cisterns so abundant in Jerusalem, and the +holes still remain by which the water entered or was drawn out. The rock +is a soft limestone, and differs from the fragment on the top of +Golgotha; therefore I am inclined to believe that there is no connexion +between the latter and this in the Chapel of the Invention of the Cross. + +The rough rock in this chamber, untouched and unaltered, appeals to my +heart at least, far more than all the other places, buried as they are +beneath marble and decorations; and I cannot but think that it would be +a noble work to sweep away all obstructions in the present Church of the +Holy Sepulchre, to clear the ground, and again expose the bare rock over +the whole area; and, defending the Sepulchre itself against the elements +with a dome, to enclose the whole with a cloister in a solemn and +appropriate style of architecture. If this were done, the original +appearance of the ground would be in some measure restored, and the +Golgotha and the Sepulchre, the true trophies of Christianity, would be +visible to all; unbelievers would be convinced by the evidence of their +senses; and while all would be obliged to admit the genuineness of the +sites, each one would be free to meditate in his own way upon the +teachings of the very place consecrated by the Passion, Death, and +Resurrection of his Redeemer. Will this hope ever be realized? Never, I +fear; for then the present Church would cease to be the source of a +large revenue, derived from the purses of ignorant and credulous +pilgrims, who pay to obtain a blessing, or to secure a place at the +distribution of the Holy Fire, or at some other ceremony, or to pass a +night in the Sanctuary[432]. + +I now pause to consider and describe, more fully than I have hitherto +done, the present appearance of the Calvary. The Golgotha is a platform +supported by vaulted arches of masonry, reached by two flights of steps, +one close to the entrance of the church, the other near the Stone of +Unction. The latter belongs to the Greeks, but they allow it to be open +to all. The whole area is divided into two chapels, north and south: in +the former, called 'The Adoration of the Cross,' is the place where the +cross was erected (as I have already said); it belongs to the Greeks; +the latter, belonging to the Latins, is called the Chapel of the +Crucifixion, because it is generally believed that on that spot the +Saviour was nailed to the cross. In this the altar is well worth notice, +as it is ornamented with a casing of bronze, on which are sculptured in +bas-relief eight different scenes from the Passion of our Saviour. Its +original shape has been altered, though without injury to the general +effect, for it was made four-sided, as it was intended to be placed as a +kind of fence round the Stone of Unction; but the Greeks would not allow +anything belonging to the Latins to be used in their possessions, lest +it should give their rivals a footing there. It is therefore now +arranged as three sides of an oblong. It was given by Ferdinand de +Medici, as is shewn by the following inscription on a plate at the foot +of the altar: "The gift of the piety of Ferdinand de Medici, Grand-duke +of Tuscany, 1588." The same inscription also occurs on the cornice +surmounting the upper part of the altar. The carving is admirably +executed; it is the work of Domenico Portigiani, a Florentine friar of +the convent of S. Mark, and a pupil of the famous sculptor John of +Bologna; as is recorded by the following inscription, placed beneath the +name of the donor: "Made by Fra Domenico Portigiani, a friar of the +convent of S. Mark at Florence in the province of Rome, in the year +1588." The arms of the Medici are sculptured at the four corners, and on +the shield is a Cardinal's hat, because Ferdinand was already invested +with this dignity in the year 1588. + +Having now finished the description of the interior of the church, I +proceed to make some remarks upon the monks of the different communities +who dwell there, and upon the pilgrims (especially the Orientals) who +visit it. The monks of the Greek, Latin, Armenian, Coptic, Abyssinian, +and Syrian communities have different chambers in the church, in which +they live in order that they may keep constant watch over the Holy +Places, and offer up continual prayer and praise to God. Though the +space belonging to the Latins is roomy, it is nevertheless unhealthy +from the constant damp, caused by the rain-water falling through the +ruinous terrace-roofs above, which they cannot repair, as these do not +belong to them, but to some Mohammedans. The owners are very jealous of +their property, which brings them in an easy and ample revenue from the +sums paid by the Latin and Greek convents, in the hope of abating the +nuisance of the water. The Greeks and Armenians are better housed in +their upper chambers, as the terrace-roofs above them do not belong to +Mohammedans, and can therefore be easily repaired; but in their lower +rooms they suffer with the Latins. The three poorer communities are +exposed to constant damp, both from the bad repair of the dome, and from +the situation of the church itself, which stands on low ground, +commanded on all sides by higher buildings. All this, however, does not +hinder the monks from being very eager to enter the place, and from +leaving it with great reluctance when they are succeeded by others; and +the pilgrims eagerly seek permission to remain, if only for one or two +nights. The Latins give a chamber and bed to each visitor inside their +convent, but the same comforts cannot be obtained among the other +communities, both from the numbers that throng together, their station +in life, and also the Eastern custom, which allows men and women to be +crowded together in the same place without distinction of sex. Hence it +comes to pass that from the end of October to Easter the galleries round +the great dome belonging to the different sects (with the exception of +the Latins), though close to the Holy Sepulchre, are crowded, almost +every night, with pilgrims, who, after fervent prayer, eat, drink, +sleep, smoke, and make coffee there, as they would do in an inn; nay, +impelled by deep ignorance and blind fanaticism, carry into effect +certain vows, which I cannot more particularly describe without +offending my readers' modesty. In this way the Eastern pilgrims behave, +and would do still worse, did not their father confessors and the monks +in charge of the place, who are furnished with sticks and whips, make +frequent use of them to maintain order. It is a well-established fact, +and one of daily recurrence, that the rude Eastern pilgrim prays in the +interior of each Holy Place, and then when he has gone away a few yards, +forgets the sanctity of the building, and acts as he pleases. He may +therefore often be seen in any part of the church, talking and +discussing his private affairs with his friends; especially if it be a +rainy day, and he can enter without payment. But this is nothing, +absolutely nothing, in comparison with the scenes at the services before +and during the Easter festival; especially when all the religious +communities coincide in keeping it on the same day. The noise, the +clamour, and the confusion are inconceivable; in one corner they are +praying, in another walking about, laughing, and jesting. Sometimes it +happens that the Latins are performing a noiseless service around the +Sepulchre, and the Armenians are yelling like madmen, as they sing in +their chapels; while the nasal tones of the Greeks ring through the +building, and the frantic howls of the Copts and Abyssinians split the +ears. If a procession takes place, it rather resembles a riot; the +banners rise and fall, the tapers bespatter the spectators, the Turkish +soldiers with fixed bayonets clear a way for the officiating Priests, +the attendants belabour the noisier bystanders with sticks; some +struggle for places and tumble over upon those below them; and all is a +scene of pushing, struggling, and tumult, so that it is a lucky thing +when quarrels do not ensue. Sometimes the jealousy of the rival sects +breaks out around the very Sepulchre of Christ, and then occurs every +frantic act that a senseless and barbarous people can commit. In times +past it was not uncommon that lives were lost; either by suffocation in +the dense crowd as it pressed to go out by the only door, at the +conclusion of the services, or even by blows received in the fights. The +clergy of Jerusalem know this by sad experience, and yet take no steps +to put a stop to it, though it would not be difficult. The Greeks and +Armenians will not abandon the ceremony of the Holy Fire[433] on Easter +Eve, through fear that the number of pilgrims would decrease; since the +greater part of them come to the city simply and solely to witness this +so-called annual miracle. The Latins still continue to represent on the +evening of every Good-Friday the descent from the Cross, and the +interment of the Saviour's body; though, in Jerusalem, from the number +and nature of the spectators of different religious sects, the scene is +almost comic; when it is not rendered tragic by furious and sometimes +fatal quarrels[434]. Whoever has visited the place at the Easter season +will I am sure forgive me this description; and I venture to give the +following advice to any one who has not, that if he is going there from +a religious motive, he had better keep away at that time; but that if he +is actuated simply by curiosity, he should not omit to go there; in +which case he will admit the truth of my information. If during the last +few years the services have gone off more quietly, and the quarrels been +less violent, it is due to the careful oversight of Surraya Pasha, and +the energy he has displayed in quelling the rising tumults. It is a +thing much to be desired, that in this nineteenth century, the causes +which excite the scandals and strifes around the sublimest of monuments, +the Tomb of Christ, should be at last abolished. + +I conclude this subject by pointing out what are the most frequent +causes of these furious disputes between the monks who occupy the +Sepulchre. Since the church is divided among the different communities, +each guards his rights with the utmost jealousy, and quarrels about the +smallest trifle. A nail driven a little too much on the one side or the +other of the boundary line, a slight repair of a wall or pavement +without the consent of all the parties interested, a candlestick knocked +down or taken away from a Sanctuary, a sweeper trespassing with his +broom on the property of another sect, and dusting where he has no +business, excites long and bitter recriminations, which are only put a +stop to by the interference of the local authorities, and sometimes of +the governments that protect the different religious bodies. + +After this somewhat long digression we will go on to consider the +neighbourhood of the Church of the Resurrection. On the east is the +terrace-roof above the Church of S. Helena, the exclusive property of +the Abyssinians; to the west of this are some houses belonging to the +monks, who also possess some wretched dens on the south, abutting on an +old wall, in which is an arcade of five arches, supported by four +pillars with plain capitals; over this runs a cornice, above which are +five pointed windows of the time of the Crusades. From some notices in +Greek manuscripts preserved in the convent of S. Saba, it appears that a +church was erected on this spot by S. Helena, in honour of the Holy +Cross; but this present building, if standing at that time, could not +have escaped the ravages of Chosroes II. of Persia and of Hakem; and we +must therefore refer it to a later date. Accordingly I perfectly agree +with the opinion expressed by M. de Vogüé in his chapter on the +Hospital. This author thinks that the Church of S. Mary Latin occupied +this position, a building with a single nave; and this is strongly +corroborated by a passage in the Gesta Francorum[435], which asserts +distinctly that the first Crusaders found it at the south of the Church +of the Invention of the Cross, and a stone's throw from the Church of +the Holy Sepulchre. He therefore considers these ruins to belong to a +building erected in the middle of the twelfth century, on the site of a +church built by the merchants of Amalfi in the eleventh century; when it +was found necessary to establish a church, with a convent and hospice to +receive all the women who came as pilgrims, in order to keep them +separate from the Hospice of S. Mary the Great, presided over by monks, +at the south of this, which I shall presently notice[436]. + +The plot of land on which are the ruins of S. Mary Latin was acquired by +the Russians in 1858. In 1860 they began to clear away a quantity of +rubbish and earth, the accumulation of centuries, in order to lay the +foundations of a house for the Consulate; and, in the course of the +removal, fragments of walls and buildings were found of an earlier date +than the Crusades. History informs us that some houses were erected on +this spot by native labourers for the Amalfi merchants; and in +accordance with this we do not find in these remains that precision and +perfectness of execution which characterizes work executed with European +aid. I endeavoured to connect the walls with the mutilated building; but +I found it impossible to restore them sufficiently to draw out a plan of +any sort; the ruin wrought by time and man is too complete. I have +already mentioned that some remains of an ancient Jewish wall were found +during the excavations in this same plot of land, and now add that, +below it, near to the street on the east, there seems to have been a +portico, some fragments of columns of black granite having been found +there. M. de Vogüé, who arrived at Jerusalem after my departure, and +during the progress of the excavations, will no doubt have made further +discoveries; and it is to be hoped that before long we shall have them +described by so able and learned an explorer. + +The 'House of the Prince' is a house to the north of S. Mary Latin, +shewing on the exterior architectural features of a period before the +Crusades; these, however, have all disappeared from the interior, where +now nothing is to be seen but some party-walls of Arab workmanship, +built at different periods, most of them not long ago, in order to +divide it into small separate tenements. It belongs to the Franciscan +convent, which gives free lodging there to the poorest of their nation. +How and when it obtained its name I have not been able to ascertain: +there is, however, a tradition that Godfrey of Bouillon occupied it +during his short reign; this is not improbable in itself, but is +unconfirmed by history; and William of Tyre[437] states that the palace +of the Latin king was near the Temple on the south side; meaning by the +Temple the present area of the _Haram es-Sherîf_. In a manuscript +belonging to the Franciscans (preserved in the Convent of S. Saviour) we +find that "from the House of the Prince to the Sepulchre was a +subterranean passage, through which they went to the Church of the +Sepulchre." From this I was led to examine the spot, and found, on the +west side of the house, an aperture level with the ground leading into a +subterranean passage, bearing the appearance of antiquity; but it was so +filled up with rubbish that I was unable to examine it thoroughly; +nevertheless I believe that it communicated with the Chapel of S. +Helena, just at the doorway now walled up, and that its entrance is +covered by the altar nearest to the north-east corner. On the west of +the House of the Prince is a Coptic convent, built upon a part of the +land formerly occupied by the Canons of the Holy Sepulchre; its chapel +is worth a visit; it is of the twelfth century, and no doubt was +originally either the refectory or the dormitory of the ecclesiastics. +From the interior of this convent the open court in front of the Church +of the Resurrection can be reached, by passing through a chapel at its +north-west corner. + +Returning through the entrance gate into the street (which I call +Prince's Street) we come to the so-called cistern of S. Helena, on the +left hand. We enter a chamber serving as a refuge to some poor +Abyssinian families; the inner walls are ancient, together with the +small doorway on the north, by which we begin to descend a dark and most +ruinous staircase, that 'craves wary walking;' however, after going down +thirty very awkward steps, we enter the vault, and the staircase at once +becomes perfectly regular, so much so as to appear more like the way +into a comfortable house than into a cistern; for each step is 5 feet +long, 1-1/2 wide, and about 8 inches deep. The staircase (including its +vaulted roof) and the whole reservoir are excavated in the rock. The +latter is about 86 feet long, 72 wide, and 52 high. I was able to +examine it thoroughly in September, 1858, when it was dry. Holes are +made in the vaulted roof and walls, through which it is supplied by +rain-water from the terrace-roofs of the neighbouring houses and from +the street to the north. This I ascertained by descending into it during +a time of heavy rain. There are some small openings on the south-east to +carry off superfluous water. The construction of this is attributed to +S. Helena (like everything else in Palestine); but its magnitude induces +me to consider it Jewish work of an earlier period. Besides, what motive +could she have had for making it? It could not be for want of a +reservoir; there were plenty of them at Jerusalem then as now; and it is +not likely that she would have wasted money to no purpose, when there +were so many works of benevolence and greater utility, on which she knew +well how to spend it. + +In the north-west corner of the Plan[438] is the mosque of Ibrahim, +situated in the interior of the _Kanki_, called the Hospice of Saladin; +because he richly endowed it to enable it to entertain the Mohammedan +pilgrims to the Holy City; and at the same time erected the minaret, +which is still standing, and restored the entrance-gate. During the time +of the Crusaders it was the palace of the Patriarch of Jerusalem, whence +the adjoining street is called Patriarch's Street. The lower parts of +its walls on the north and west are ancient and strongly built; but the +upper as well as the interior of the building, have greatly suffered +from wretched Arab alterations, so that it is difficult to form any idea +of its former internal plan. In the Christian bazaar on the west the +wall throughout its whole height and the pilasters are unquestionably of +the date of the Crusades, together with the chambers within on the +ground-floor and story above; as is proved by their pointed arches, with +the columns and capitals supporting them. They are now used as +storehouses for the grain received by the governor: and as the Hospice +has no longer any revenues, it will before long become the property of +one of the Christian communities. The staircase inside at the north +entrance is the only part of the building that retains its former +grandeur uninjured. + +Let us now turn our attention to the Hospital. The visitor, on quitting +the court in front of the Church of the Holy Sepulchre by the door at +the south-east corner, enters a small street[439], and passing along +this to the east, comes, after a few yards, to a great doorway with a +semicircular arch, standing on the south side of the way, and adorned +with figures representing the twelve months of the year; above the arch +some traces of a lamb, the emblem of the Hospitalers of Jerusalem, can +still be distinguished[440]. This gateway is now walled up, and very +much hidden by the accumulated earth; and before the year 1858 it was +impossible for any one to go along that way without suffering from +nausea, besides wetting his feet with the foul mire, and encountering a +pack of savage hungry dogs that haunted the place--nuisances caused by a +tannery. The court within and the buildings round it were as bad as the +street; so that the place was hardly fit to be visited, being covered +with carcases of animals and the most abominable filth. The inhabitants +of Jerusalem are indebted to Surraya Pasha for the removal of this +pestiferous evil; and the Christians above all, who have thus obtained a +decent approach to their principal Sanctuary; and can visit, not the +prison of S. Peter, as the ignorant guides call it, but the remains of +the time of the Amalfi merchants and the Knights Hospitaler of S. John; +of which I will now give a brief account. + +The amicable relations between Harûn er-Rashîd, Khalif of Bagdad, and +Charlemagne, were of the utmost advantage to the Christians at +Jerusalem, and induced the French Monarch to send large gifts thither, +A.D. 810, in order to restore the churches, to build hospices, and +purchase lands for their endowment. The monk Bernard, who visited +Jerusalem in the year 870 A.D., writes as follows[441]: "On our arrival +at Jerusalem we were entertained at the hospice of the glorious Emperor +Charles, where all are welcomed who visit the place from a devout motive +and speak the Latin language. To it is attached a church in honour of S. +Mary, with a noble library, due to the care of the same Emperor, with +twelve houses, fields, vineyards, and a garden in the valley of +Jehoshaphat. In front of the hospice is the market, &c." This +establishment was inhabited by Benedictine monks. In the year 1010 A.D., +Hakem, Khalif of Egypt, destroyed this building, as it was near the +Church of the Resurrection; but when it was rebuilt, another hospice, +together with the Church of S. Mary, was also founded. William of Tyre +states[442] that "certain merchants of Amalfi, who had obtained the +favour of the Governors of the cities of Syria by importing useful and +needful goods and by their quiet and peaceable conduct, obtained +permission from Belfagar (Abu-'l-Giafar?), Sultan of Egypt, to rebuild a +monastery in the Christian quarter to receive pilgrims, minister to the +sick, and practise every kind of charity." To this building and the +church, which they dedicated to the Virgin Mary, they attached offices +for the inmates, together with a public market, in which any one could +establish a shop on paying a rent of two pieces of gold to the Patriarch +and his clergy. This was opposite to the Church of the Resurrection, and +a stone's throw to the south of the Church of the Invention of the +Cross, as I have already said[443]. When the buildings were finished +these merchants placed in them an Abbot with his attendant monks, and as +these performed the service in Latin, while the rest of the clergy in +the place followed the rites of the Greek Church, their church obtained +the name of S. Mary Latin[444]. Afterwards the monks assigned to an +order of nuns a convent which they had founded outside their property to +the north, and dedicated to S. Mary Magdalene; giving it the name of S. +Mary Latin the Less; but these institutions always bore the name of +'Latin[445].' In course of time the number of pilgrims became larger, so +that the monks were obliged to increase their accommodation, and built a +hospital and another church to the west, which they dedicated to S. +John, Patriarch of Alexandria, called 'the Almsgiver,' from the noble +liberality with which he had succoured the Christians who had taken +refuge in Egypt, when Palestine was invaded by Chosroes II. This new +foundation was supported by abundant alms, collected in Italy by the +help of the Amalfi merchants. When the Crusaders made their triumphant +and bloody entry into Jerusalem, they found the convents of S. Mary +Latin in the above situation, and quite uninjured[446]. The hospital at +that time was presided over by a monk named Gerald, and the nunnery by a +noble Roman lady named Agnes[447]. When the Latin kingdom was +established, Gerald found fellow-labourers in his works of benevolence; +who, together with him, were distinguished by a black dress, relieved by +a white cross on the breast, and devoted themselves to the relief of the +sick, the poor, and the pilgrims. Such was the origin of the Fraternity +of S. John. Agnes adopted the same rules, so far as concerned the +ministrations among the poor, and the two communities chose S. John the +Baptist as their joint protector[448]. So long as the brothers were poor +and few in number, they remained under the rule of the Abbot; but when +they found means, and had obtained powerful protectors on account of the +eminent services they had rendered, they spurned his jurisdiction (about +A.D. 1113), and between the years 1118 and 1159 formed themselves into +an organized body, respected for their prowess in arms as champions of +the Faith; and their white and black flag, an emblem of the faith they +professed and the death they menaced to its enemies, waved over many a +glorious field in Syria. The knights, being compelled to quit Jerusalem +after its capture by Saladin, removed to Margat, then to S. Jean d'Acre, +between the years 1187 and 1192; afterwards they remained about twenty +years in the city of Limasol in Cyprus; thence they went to Rhodes (A.D. +1309-1522); and being driven from that island by the conquests of the +Turks, they established themselves at Malta, and took the name of the +country they had adopted. + +During the earlier part of my stay in Jerusalem (1855-6), a certain +member of the order, a man of a chivalrous and philanthropic spirit, was +desirous of re-establishing it upon its primitive footing; but the +obstacles in the way of his project appeared so great, that the attempt +was soon abandoned. His intention was to obtain possession of the +property that had formerly belonged to the knights; a matter itself of +the greatest difficulty, as the land was divided among several owners +(the Greek convent having the largest part), who would not give up a +foot without the fullest compensation. + +It now remains for me to say a few words about the present condition of +these buildings. The Plan[449] shews the positions of the Hospital of S. +John, of S. Mary the Great, and S. Mary the Less, with reference to the +Church of the Resurrection. All three in the present day are but heaps +of ruins; only a few walls remain standing, the greater number being so +completely buried under a mass of earth and rubbish, that little or +nothing can be ascertained about their ancient arrangement. We will +however examine their exterior and interior. On the north side, towards +the north-west corner, are some regular Arab cottages; and going +eastward from them, we come to a minaret, built in the fifteenth +century, in memory of the spot whereon Omar offered up prayer, instead +of entering the Church of the Resurrection. Before the erection of the +minaret, Khahab-ed-Din, nephew of Saladin, built a mosque called +_Derkah_[450] on an adjoining plot of land; this had so completely +fallen to decay, that but a few fragments of its foundations were +remaining in 1855; over which the Mohammedans, actuated rather by +fanaticism than religious feeling, built the slight octagonal monument +called the Mosque of Omar. Opposite to the Church of the Resurrection is +the Greek convent of Gethsemane; in the lower part of its walls are some +fragments of ancient work. After this all along the little street +(except at the decorated entrance) are small ill-built shops, covered +with a great heap of earth, which often slips down during the rainy +season. Inside these shops a careful search will discover some poor +fragments of antiquity; such as mutilated capitals, broken bases, and +carefully worked stones, built into rough Arab masonry. The east side +exhibits similar cottages from the north-east corner as far as the door +leading into the bazaar, which, together with the others near it on the +east (though all are in the most neglected and ruinous condition), shews +signs of antiquity in the walls and vaulting. I consider them to be the +work of the Amalfi merchants, restored at a later period by the +Crusaders. In the shops occupied by the braziers, on the west side of +the bazaar bounding this plot of land, are some old passages which +communicated with the interior of the hospital; but now many of them are +walled up or obstructed with ruins. I managed however to get through +certain of them, after some trouble, in order to reach the building near +them on the west. At the eastern end of the south side are small houses +and Arab shops; which however soon give place to the building now called +from its use the Corn Bazaar; which in its well-laid walls, pointed +arches, and solid vaults, shews plainly the work of the Hospitalers. I +endeavoured to enter by the north side, where at the present time the +stalls are placed, but was prevented by the accumulated earth; however I +was able to ascertain that piers and vaulted roofs still remain in the +northern part of the bazaar. The sentence of death is executed on +criminals in this place. Going thence up the street westward, we see on +the north side a row of fine columns, supporting grand pointed arches, +now closed with Arab masonry. In the wall are doors opening into vaulted +chambers like those in the bazaar. These were formerly the storehouses +of the hospital; they now belong to different owners, the Greek convent +possessing the largest share. The arcade towards the west is broken by a +very high common Arab wall, enclosing the south side of the Greek +convent of S. John Baptist; the entrance to which is in the Christian +bazaar, which bounds the Hospital on the east. All the interior of the +convent is modern Arab masonry, but some debased Corinthian capitals are +built irregularly into the façade of the church; some more are to be +seen in other parts, placed upon ancient bases of columns. These were +discovered when the convent was enlarged towards the east. The crypt of +the church, reached by an external staircase on the south side, is an +uninjured building of the Hospitalers; in its east wall is a doorway +with a pointed arch, closed to prevent the earth falling in. The rock +lies about two feet below the pavement, and was discovered nearly at the +same depth to the south of the convent, when the Prussian hospital was +built; so that the correspondence of these levels proves the +nonexistence of Dr Robinson's Tyropoeon. Going northward along the +Christian bazaar, we come to a Turkish bath on the east side, supplied +during a large portion of the year from the pool commonly called the +Pool of Hezekiah[451]. The refuse water is carried off by a conduit, +emptying itself into that which runs along the Street of David. I have +examined it at the two ends, and also in the interior of the convent, +through the kindness of the Greek Prior. Its lower part is hewn in the +rock; but the side walls and vaulting belong to the period of the +Crusaders; it is too narrow to be traversed. From the bath up to the +north-west corner are storehouses and wretched buildings, all of the +commonest Arab work. + +The present entrance into the precincts of the Hospital is near the +western end of the northern side. Within, a spacious plateau meets the +eye, formed by the earth which has accumulated at different periods; in +the north-east corner is a very ruinous building; on the east it is +bounded by the vaults of the bazaars below; these are very dilapidated +and covered by a luxuriant vegetation of creeping plants, which daily +makes the ruin worse; on the south are the fallen terrace-roofs of the +ancient halls mentioned above; in the south-west corner stand the walls +of the Convent of S. John; on the west, the low walls dividing it from +the little gardens, terraces, and Mohammedan houses; and on the north, +what we have already described. The plateau itself, on which there are +no houses, belongs to the Greek Convent of S. Constantine; the building +on the north-east is the property of the Governor, and in 1858 would +have been sold to the Greeks or the Armenians, if M. Edmond de Barrère, +the French Consul, had not actively interposed to prevent it, in the +hope that it might one day be restored, if not to the knights of Malta, +at least to France. Let us then enter it. + +Its plan is that of a poor convent with an inner court, round which +still runs a cloister on the level of the ground; though it has been +transformed by the tanners, who have made the space between each pair of +pillars into shops. The upper floor of the cloister is perfect, with the +cells within. Opening into it on the south side is a long hall, little +injured, which was probably the refectory; and parallel to this are two +smaller chambers, in a tottering condition[452]. On the north of the +convent[453] are some ruins of a church, sufficiently perfect to give us +an idea of its ancient form. It had three apses at the east end; the +southern of these is still standing; the fragments of the others are +nearly covered by heaps of earth, as are portions of the side walls. We +can ascertain its original length from a part of the west wall, which is +still standing, though enclosed in a mass of Arab cottages, against +which are the remains of two piers with their bases perfect. From these +ruins I can infer that the church was divided into a nave with two side +aisles. I consider the remains, both of the convent and of the church, +to be the work of the Amalfi merchants. Their architecture, proportions, +and masonry are too contracted and insignificant to be of the period of +the Crusaders, who however undoubtedly built the great entrance gateway, +and perhaps restored the church; this latter point, however, cannot +easily be determined, as the building is in such a ruined condition. +Close to the apse still standing is a door, leading into a long dark +chamber, which is exhibited as the prison in which S. Peter was confined +by Herod Agrippa I. The tradition is worthless, and not so old as the +time of the Crusaders; who, on their entry into Jerusalem, found on +Mount Sion a church dedicated to the imprisonment of S. Peter, standing +on the supposed site of the prison. The place may be considered to be +the sacristy of the ancient church, which communicated with the convent. +At the present time there are some richly ornamented capitals within it +of excellent workmanship, together with some cornices; all however are +out of their proper places, being either built into the walls or lying +on the ground. + +These ruins belong to the church of S. Mary the Great. All authors +previous to the fifteenth century are unanimous on this point. John of +Würtzburg[454], who visited Jerusalem in the second half of the twelfth +century, states that "near the Church of the Hospital of S. John is a +nunnery in honour of the Virgin, almost close to the end of the church; +it is called S. Mary the Great." This, formerly the monastery, was now +inhabited by the Sisters Hospitaler under the charge of an Abbess, and +was a dependency of the Grand Master of the Order. Agnes was the +foundress, as I have already said; and she was succeeded by other ladies +of rank: two of whom are mentioned by William of Tyre[455], one called +Sibylla, the other Stephania, a daughter of Jocelin (Senior) Count of +Edessa. The ruins of S. Mary the Great have been preserved because +Saladin founded a hospital there, which he richly endowed; but its +revenues are now exhausted. It is not fifty years, since a philanthropic +Mohammedan of Jerusalem endeavoured to re-establish the charitable +foundations of Saladin, but the managers have again squandered the +property. It is now quite deserted and has become a receptacle of filth, +waiting every day to be applied to some other purpose. + +Let us now look for the position of the Hospital, which is well +defined[456]. It occupied a piece of land bounded on the north by the +court in front of the door of the Holy Sepulchre and by Palmers +Street[457], formerly the Tan-yard Street; on the west by Patriarch +Street, or the Christian bazaar; and on the east and south by a small +street which, beginning from Palmers Street, opposite to the Sepulchre, +ran southward between the convent of S. Mary the Great and the Hospital, +and turning to the west led into Patriarch Street[458]. The principal +buildings, with the church, were erected between A.D. 1130 and 1140, +under the superintendence of Raymond of Puy, Grand Master of the +Hospital. William of Tyre relates that they were so large, especially +those opposite to the door of the Church of the Sepulchre, that they +surpassed it in magnificence; besides which they had a large peal of +bells, whose sound drowned the voice of the Patriarch when he was +preaching on the Calvary. No part of these splendid buildings now +remains perfect; all are a mass of ruins, or covered with earth and Arab +cottages. Sir John Maundeville, who visited Jerusalem A.D. 1322, found +the hospital still standing, and states that it was supported by 124 +columns of stone and 54 pilasters built into the wall[459]. I was +therefore very anxious to examine the ground in the hope of finding some +remains of these. I carried on excavations for many days in various +directions: I forced my way with great difficulty from vault to vault; +but found neither fragments of columns nor capitals, only very many +pilasters. I discovered a large crypt by chance; for the ground gave way +under my feet, and I fell into it; but it was so filled with earth that +I could not explore it. When the Greeks remove the ruins in order to +build upon this site, it may be possible to discover some remains of the +ancient walls, and perhaps to make out something about its arrangement. + + +FOOTNOTES: + +[372] Note I. + +[373] S. John xix. 20. + +[374] S. Luke xxiii. 27. + +[375] S. John xix. 31. + +[376] S. John xix. 14. + +[377] S. Matt. xxvii. 45, 46. + +[378] Mischna, 4th part, _Bava-bathra_, c. II., § 8. + +[379] Page 30. + +[380] S. John xix. 41. + +[381] S. Matt. xxvii. 60, 61; S. Luke xxiii. 55; S. John xix. 38, 39, +41, 42. + +[382] S. Matt. xxvii. 62-64. + +[383] S. Matt. xxvii. 66; xxviii. 4. + +[384] Treatise Sanhedrim, fol. 43 (Venet. edit.). + +[385] Ant. XX. 9, § 1. + +[386] Eusebius, Hist. Eccl. III. 5. + +[387] Ibid. IV. 6. + +[388] Note II. + +[389] Euseb. Vita Constant. III. 26, 28. + +[390] Note III. + +[391] Histoire de l'État présent de Jer. ch. IV. + +[392] Note IV. + +[393] Eutychius, Ann. Tom. II. pp. 421-423. + +[394] So William of Tyre reports, Lib. I. c. 3, but Cedrenus attributes +their destruction to Azis, father of Hakem. I am inclined to credit the +former, because, according to historians, Azis shewed kindness to the +Christians, having married a wife from among them, the sister of John, +Patriarch of Jerusalem, (Dositheus' History of the Patriarchs of +Jerusalem); while all agree in depicting Hakem as a savage bloodthirsty +tyrant; so that it is in the highest degree improbable that (as some +assert) he restored the churches destroyed by Azis. Cedrenus betrays his +own mistake when he says that Azis burnt the patriarch and the church +together, A.D. 968; whereas he did not ascend the throne till A.D. 975. + +[395] Note V. + +[396] Note VI. + +[397] Plate XXXI. + +[398] Note VII. + +[399] Plates XXX., XXXIV. + +[400] Note VIII. + +[401] As for example, Maria the Portuguese, a nun of the third order of +S. Francis, A.D. 1578, and Cosimo of Granada, a Franciscan friar, A.D. +1559. + +[402] For details of the capitals of the columns in it see Plate XXXVI. + +[403] See M. de Vogüé's excellent description, Les Églises de la Terre +Sainte, p. 199 et seq. + +[404] Plates XXXII., XXXIII. + +[405] Note IX. + +[406] Note X. + +[407] Plate XXXVI. + +[408] Note XI. + +[409] Liber Secretorum Fidelium Crucis, Lib. III. pars 14, c. 8; Note +XII. + +[410] Plates XXXIV., XXXV. + +[411] Plate XXXV. + +[412] S. Matt. xxviii. 2. + +[413] Mabillon, Acta Sanctorum, Sæc. 3, pars 2. + +[414] Itinerarium Terræ Sanctæ in Leo Allatius, Symmikta, ed. 1653, p. +147. + +[415] Itinerarium Hierosolymitanum, p. 40, ed. of 1486. + +[416] Note XIII. + +[417] Plates LVI., LIX. + +[418] Plate LVI. + +[419] S. Matt. xxviii. 2. + +[420] S. Mark xvi. 1-6. + +[421] S. Luke xxiv. 2, 3. + +[422] S. John xx. 1, 4, 5, 6. + +[423] Euseb. Theoph. See Lee's translation, p. 199, Camb. 1843. + +[424] S. Cyril, Catechet. Lect. XIV. (Library of the Fathers, Vol. II. +p. 169). + +[425] Plate XXXIV. (section). + +[426] Plate LIX. + +[427] Plate XXXV. + +[428] Ezek. v. 5. + +[429] Inferno, II. 1 (Wright). + +[430] Plate XXXV. + +[431] Plate XXXVI. + +[432] I except the Latins from this reproach. + +[433] Note XIV. + +[434] Note XV. + +[435] Gesta Francorum expugnantium Hierusalem (Gesta Dei per Francos, +Tom. I. p. 573, ed. 1611). + +[436] Les Églises de la Terre Sainte. De Vogüé, pp. 249, 262 et seq. + +[437] Lib. XII. c. 7 (Gesta Dei per Francos, Tom. II. pp. 819, 820, ed. +1611). + +[438] Plate XXX. + +[439] Note XVI. + +[440] Plate XXXVII. + +[441] Recueil de Voyages et de Mémoires publiés par la Société de +Géographie. 4to. Vol. IV. p. 789. + +[442] Lib. XVIII. c. 4 (Gesta Dei per Francos, Tom. II. pp. 933, 934, +ed. 1611). + +[443] Page 125. + +[444] Note XVII. + +[445] William of Tyre, Lib. IX. c. 18 (Gesta Dei per Francos, Tom. II. +p. 773, ed. 1611). + +[446] Albert of Aix, Lib. VI. c. 25 (Gesta Dei per Francos, Tom. I. p. +281, ed. 1611). + +[447] William of Tyre, Lib. XVIII. c. 5 (Gesta Dei per Francos, Tom. II. +p. 935, ed. 1611). + +[448] See Sæwulf's description, Note V. + +[449] Plate XXX. + +[450] Mejir-ed-Din, p. 123. + +[451] Plate XXXI. + +[452] Plate XXX. + +[453] Plate XXXVIII. + +[454] Descriptio Terræ Sanctæ. Pez. thes. anecd. noviss. Vol. I. pt. 3, +col. 526. + +[455] William of Tyre, Lib. XIX. c. 4 (Gesta Dei, &c. Vol. II. p. 958). + +[456] De Vogüé, Les Églises, &c. p. 251. + +[457] Note XVI. + +[458] Note XVIII. + +[459] Early Travels in Palestine. Bohn's Ant. Libr. p. 168. + + + + +CHAPTER V. + + INVESTIGATIONS IN THE VIA DOLOROSA (OR THE WAY OF THE CROSS). THE + RELIGIOUS AND OTHER REMARKABLE BUILDINGS IN IT OR IN ITS + NEIGHBOURHOOD AND IN THE REST OF THE CITY, TOGETHER WITH ALL THE + CONVENTS OF THE DIFFERENT RELIGIOUS COMMUNITIES. + + +The _Via Dolorosa_ is the street our Saviour is supposed to have passed +along on his road from the Prætorium to Calvary. The following is the +course assigned to it by the only tradition which mentions it. It begins +in the street which passes by the northern side of the barrack of the +_Haram_[460], and goes westward till it meets the central valley +(Tyropoeon), which it follows for a short distance southward; it then +turns along the first street to the west, and after going through the +Judgement Gate, must have again turned to the south a short distance +beyond it, (opposite to the little street running to the north,) in +order to reach the Church of the Resurrection, just at the north-east +angle inside the Chapel of S. Helena. The last part of its course, if +this were its course, is now entirely covered by the buildings of the +Greek Convent of S. Charalampes. The present Via Dolorosa is divided +into fourteen stations: these are visited with religious care by +pilgrims, because they are asserted to be the very places at which the +last scenes of the Passion of Christ were enacted. They are as follows: + +(i). Prætorium of Pilate (Barrack of the Haram); _Jesus condemned to +death_. + +(ii). Site of the 'scala sancta' (near to the north-east corner of the +Barrack); _Jesus given His Cross to bear_. + +(iii). A column lying on the ground south of the Austrian hospice (at +the north-west corner of the Armenian Catholics' property); _Jesus falls +the first time_. + +(iv). South-west corner of the same property (a little street leading to +the house of the Governor of the city); _Jesus meets His mother_. + +(v). A stone built into the south wall of the street going up to the +Judgement Gate; _Simon the Cyrenian assists Jesus to bear the Cross_. + +(vi). The house of Veronica (in the above street); _Veronica wipes the +face of Jesus_. + +(vii). The Judgement Gate; _Jesus falls the second time_. + +(viii). A small aperture in the wall of the Greek Convent of S. +Charalampes (west of the above gate); marking the spot where _Jesus +beheld the women weeping_. + +(ix). A column lying on the ground by the Copts' convent (at the +north-east corner of the Church of the Resurrection); _Jesus falls the +third time_. + +(x). A mark on the pavement at the south side of the platform of the +Calvary (before the window opposite to the Chapel of the Agony); _Jesus +stripped of his garments_. + +(xi). A small square of mosaic work before the Latin altar (also in the +south part); _Jesus nailed to the Cross_. + +(xii). A hole at the east end of the north side of the platform of the +Calvary, beneath the Greek altar; _Place where the Cross was erected. +Death of Jesus_. + +(xiii). In front of the last station (six feet from the Greek altar); +_Jesus taken down from the Cross_. + +(xiv). _Sepulchre of Jesus Christ_, under the middle of the great dome. + +This is the description of the stations given by the Latins; but the +Greeks and Armenians do not agree with them about all the places; and I +attach importance to this fact, since the Greeks have lived in the city +for the longest time; and this difference of opinion on their part very +much diminishes the value of the tradition. I said that the sole +authority for the Via Dolorosa was tradition; because neither the Bible, +nor Josephus, nor the configuration of the ground, afford us any +positive _data_ to aid in identifying the present road with that trodden +by our Saviour on His way to Calvary; and the tradition is of very +little weight, as I will presently shew. + +Let us then consider in detail the places mentioned above. The Prætorium +of Pilate is noticed by the Evangelists, who, however, do not say +exactly where it was situated. However, with the help of Josephus I +have been able to ascertain its position. In the third chapter[461] I +shewed that the tower Antonia occupied the north-west corner of the +_Haram_[462], and that the rock which rises high in the south wall of +the barrack was the _north_ side of that fortress. Hence the Prætorium, +which was inside the tower[463], cannot be identified with the barrack, +which stretches across the greater part of the valley that formerly +defended the Temple on the north, and divided it from Bezetha[464]; and +consequently is outside the Antonia, and so cannot be on the site of the +Prætorium. This therefore I consider to have stood on the surface of +rock now exposed at the north-west corner inside the _Haram_ wall[465]. +The tradition relating to the Prætorium is very ancient. The Pilgrim of +Bordeaux, A.D. 333, says, in his description of the city: "As you go +from Sion to the Neapolitan gate, on the right in the valley below are +walls where was once the palace of Pontius Pilate." I think that these +walls were founded, at least in part, on the rock exposed in the south +side of the present barrack, or else he would not have been able to see +them; and since this was the north side of the tower Antonia, it is +quite possible that they belonged to the Prætorium, and perhaps the +projecting rock was mistaken for walls; a thing which is not improbable, +since S. Cyril[466] (in the fourth century) in mentioning the Prætorium +states that 'it is now laid waste.' Antoninus of Piacenza found there +(in the seventh century) a church dedicated to S. Sophia[467], but +whether this was built by S. Helena or Justinian I do not know, since it +is not mentioned by Eusebius or Procopius. It is more probably the work +of the Emperor, who erected other buildings of this kind on Moriah, +while the former paid no particular attention to the place. A historian +of the first Crusade writes as follows[468]: "The Flagellation and the +Coronation (with thorns) of Jesus Christ, within the city, receive the +reverence of the faithful ... but it is now not easy to ascertain their +true positions; because, above all other reasons, the whole city has +been so often destroyed and even razed." It follows then from this +passage that the Christians, about eight centuries ago, had doubts of +the truth of the tradition. John of Würtzburg, and other authors of the +twelfth century, place the Prætorium on Mount Sion, which shews that the +traditions at that time were uncertain and confused. From the end of the +twelfth century all have agreed in recognizing the barrack as its site. +The author of the _Citez de Jherusalem_[469] clearly indicates its +present position: "A little in advance of this street (that of +Jehoshaphat, for so the street leading to S. Mary's Gate was then +called) was the house of Pilate. On the left hand in front of this +house was a gate leading up to the Temple." Quaresmius[470] states that +in his day the remains of a church built on the Prætorium were to be +seen, consisting of the choir and some of the side-chapels with traces +of paintings. Of this only a few fragments now remain in an inner court +of the barrack. + +From these _data_ it follows that the site of the Prætorium has been +known since the fourth century, and that no doubt by tradition; but as +there was a great accumulation of ruins upon the place, the position +could only be fixed by what remained uninjured, namely the rock; and it +might very easily happen that in course of time it should be placed to +the south instead of the north of this mark. My opinion as to the +position is supported by Josephus, and is not contradicted by the +expressions in the authors before the Crusades; for the 'standing walls' +could only be on the rock, and the 'waste place' of S. Cyril within the +north-west angle of the _Haram_. + +An ancient chapel within the barrack is pointed out as the spot where +Jesus was crowned with thorns; possibly it was originally dedicated to +the Passion of the Redeemer. Its plan is a square, the length of a side +being about 16 feet; above it rises an octagonal dome, supported by a +drum of the same shape. Four sides (alternate) of the octagon are +replaced in the lower part by small pointed arches, in order to adapt +this form of the drum to the square plan of the building. A pointed +doorway in the south wall leads into a small square chapel, with a niche +on each side. The arrangement of the arches, the form, and the +ornamentation of the building, resemble Roman architecture; but the work +shews it to be of the period of the Crusades. Quaresmius[471] is the +first to mention this chapel; no notice of it occurring in any author +anterior to his time. It is now used as a storehouse of barley for the +artillery-horses. + +Turning to the east on leaving the barrack, we find in its north wall a +doorway built up; half of which is Saracenic work in red and white +stone. Through it our Lord is believed to have left the Prætorium; and +the staircase which was transported to the Church of S. John Lateran at +Rome is said to have been the very one by which he descended. When I +examined this door at the end of 1854, its lowest part was two feet +above the level of the street, having a semicircular step built into the +pavement, which was pointed out as a fragment of the sacred staircase. I +was surprised that the Christians had not taken care to remove it; +especially as they had had an opportunity when the barrack was built by +Ibrahim Pasha, who would have readily granted their request. In 1857 the +military commandant constructed a raised footpath (one foot high) along +by the barrack-wall, and the step was covered up without any one making +the slightest attempt to preserve it. The tradition about this place is +very untrustworthy; the configuration of the ground does not confirm it, +and the Bible does not mention that our Lord ascended or descended any +staircase. The present street runs entirely over accumulated rubbish, +which at this point is 16 feet thick above the old level of the valley, +so that the door must at that time have had a flight of at least 28 +steps to form a communication with the bottom of the valley; and the +lowest part of the door itself is 15 feet below the level of the inner +court of the barrack, which would require 25 steps more; so that +altogether there must have been some 53 steps in all. This would not be +an unlikely approach to a barrack, but it is most improbable that the +Antonia would have had such a weak point in its defences on the most +important side as this stone staircase would have been. The valley which +divided Moriah from Bezetha has been entirely overlooked by the +believers in the 'Scala sancta.' Again, it is well known that the +Prætorium was in the interior of the Antonia; how then could this door +be in the Prætorium? If the Antonia be placed outside the north-west +corner of the _Haram_, then the Prætorium would have been in the valley, +and the fortress could not have been defended on the north, in the way +Josephus says it was; and if (as I think) it be placed inside the +enclosure, then the gate and staircase could never have occupied the +positions now assigned to them. Again, we are told that all this part of +the city was utterly destroyed; therefore the Prætorium too must have +been swept away, and its ruins have helped to fill up the valley. In +fact, the door now shewn is only a fragment of some work of the time of +Saladin or Solyman. + +Nearly opposite to the door of the 'Scala sancta' is a little opening +with an iron grate; this is the entrance to the Chapel of the +Flagellation; and beneath the altar in the middle they point out the +exact place where the Redeemer was bound to a column to be scourged. +Here Quaresmius[472] saw a small but handsome and well-preserved chapel, +which had been used as a stable by Mustafa Bey, son of the Governor of +the city. Abbé Mariti, who visited it A.D. 1767, says[473], that he saw +"a large square hall, covered by a high vaulted roof; the façade +resembled that of a church or oratory, and though the walls were very +black, traces of pictures could still be discerned on them. They assert +that the Saviour was scourged on this spot, but I do not see on what +grounds. As this building is in a way connected with the Prætorium, many +have given credence to this tradition; though, as I believe, it is only +founded on the reverence felt by the Christians for that chamber, which +no doubt induced them to build there a chapel in memory of the +Flagellation. Many miracles are said to have been performed here. The +people of Jerusalem, both Christian and Mohammedan, relate stories about +them, which remind us of the mediæval legends. The Mohammedans have +converted the place into a stable." The above shews that the tradition +itself is not ancient. The Franciscan monks relate that the chapel and +the adjoining land, occupied by the hospice, were given to them by +Ibrahim Pasha, and that they restored and enlarged the chapel in 1839, +aided by the liberality of Maximilian, Duke of Bavaria; but that the +expense of laying the foundations was very great, as they were extremely +deep, especially on the south side. The place therefore now pointed out +beneath the altar cannot be the exact spot where our Saviour stood, +because of the great quantity of earth above the rock. How, too, can +this site for the Flagellation be reconciled with the position of the +'Scala sancta' or of the Prætorium? It is quite impossible that they can +have been connected together in former times, because of the above-named +valley. The size also of the tower Antonia is an obstacle, for each of +its sides was only half a stadium, whereas, if we accept the traditional +site for the Flagellation, the Prætorium alone must have been nearly of +that size. The present chapel is dedicated to the Flagellation, and is +in no way remarkable: the few remains of antiquity it possesses have +been covered over with whitewash, excepting some capitals built into the +side walls, which appear to be Roman work. + +Quitting the above place and following the road westward, we arrive at +the arch of the 'Ecce Homo,' called at the time of the Crusades the +'Porta Dolorosa[474].' It is so named because it is believed that from +it our Lord was shewn to the people by Pilate[475]. I have already +proved[476] that the arch is much too modern to admit of this being the +case; and if it were so, it seems impossible that the place should have +been passed over in silence by Eusebius at the time of the Empress +Helena, and by other authors after him, like Antoninus of Piacenza, +Willibald, and Bernard the Monk. How is it that the writers before the +time of the Crusades do not mention it? Had there been any tradition of +the kind, it would never have been omitted (at least if they believed in +it): so that it seems certain that the belief sprung up during the +Crusades, the origin of it, no doubt, being that the arch was at first +regarded as dedicated to the Passion of Christ. I have already stated, +and now repeat it, that, for military reasons, the Jews would never have +allowed this arch to stand during the siege, and that if they had, it +would not have escaped the Romans. An author of the present day has +attempted to interpret the letters carved on two stones in the north +pilaster on the west side; but with regard to that, I will quote the +words of the Abbé Mariti[477]. "They have assured me that about sixty +years ago (i.e. before 1767) these words were read TOL...TO..., and at a +still earlier period TOLLE TOLLE CRUCIFIGE EUM. Others assert that they +have read thus TO. C. X. For my own part I have only been able to make +out a single O in a clear Roman character; but the stones on which the +letters are carved are so much injured that they will soon crumble +away, and thus put a stop to all conjectures." As then only one letter +could be deciphered at the time of Abbé Mariti, I hope to be believed +when I say that even this is now indistinct. But even if the inscription +was rightly read as above, that is no proof that the arch was standing +in our Lord's life-time; it establishes no more than that some one +carved the inscription in remembrance of an event which unquestionably +happened in the vicinity. + +On some high ground to the north of the arch of the 'Ecce Homo' are a +ruinous mosque and a minaret, which are approached by the little street +running along the east side of the new buildings of the Daughters of +Sion; this, according to tradition, is the site of the palace of Herod +Antipas, to which Pilate sent our Lord to be judged by the Tetrarch of +Galilee[478]. I have carried on many excavations in order to examine +this spot, and have discovered stones of the Herodian period in the +lower parts of the walls, besides others scattered about among the +ruins, or built into the masonry, and therefore think that this is +really the site of the palace; and that it must be the place from which +Antigonus went to visit his brother Aristobulus by the way of the +subterranean passage, Strato's tower, in which he was murdered[479]. It +appears probable that a church was erected here during the Latin +kingdom, but it has been so much altered that now it can hardly be +recognized. No writer before or after the Crusades mentions it, but the +remains, and their position with reference to the subterranean passage +and the Antonia, induce me to believe the tradition. + +Returning to the arch, and going along the street westward as far as the +central valley, we come on the south side to the Station of the First +Fall of Christ. The Evangelists make no mention of any falls; but, from +reading their narrative, we may well suppose that, worn by the sorrow +and agony of that night, He fell many times: still to the faithful heart +and thoughtful mind all additions to the sublimity of the Gospel +narrative are offensive, while they cannot be instructive to the man in +whom these qualities are wanting. + +Some yards from this spot, rather to the west, are the ruins of a +church, perhaps of the date of the Crusades; said to be on the spot +where the Virgin Mary swooned at the sight of her Son's sufferings; to +record which a chapel was erected, bearing the name Chapel of the +Virgin's Swoon. This had already been destroyed in the time of +Quaresmius; but it appears that afterwards the Mohammedans repaired it, +converting it into a mosque. The upper part has again fallen to ruin; in +the lower is the Agency of the Austrian Lloyd. + +Following the street southward from the Station of the First Fall, we +come to the spot pointed out as the place where the Virgin Mary met +Jesus. There is no mention of this circumstance in the Evangelists; it +is therefore only a tradition; and how can it be true of a place in a +street which has only existed a few centuries (as is shewn by the +houses on each side), and runs over a mass of ruins? Moreover, in this +direction the Roman armies under Pompeius, and again under Titus, made +their attacks on the Temple; it is therefore very improbable that after +the time of the latter there would be any traces of a street left. When +Hadrian rebuilt the city he set up idols in the principal sacred places +to insult the Jews and Christians; and we may therefore believe that, in +laying out the streets afresh, he would have swept away every trace of +the tradition, if any had then existed. Close to the station, on the +south, is a great pointed arch with delicately executed details, +supported by two well-built piers. It dates from the Crusades, and very +probably was the entrance to some religious building, erected to +commemorate one of the events of the Passion; or perhaps a convent may +have been at this place. Arab houses are built on each side of it facing +the street, so that nothing can be made out there. I entered these to +see if I could ascertain anything, but my examination produced little +result, because an Arab wall completely masks it; while a number of +small longitudinal and transverse party-walls, all of Arab work, have +entirely transformed the appearance of the place. However, in these I +found some polished stones, and fragments of ornaments, with mutilated +capitals and broken columns; all proofs of the existence of a building +of the time of the Crusades. Perhaps a nunnery[480], dedicated to S. +John, once stood on this spot, belonging to the Benedictines of Bethany, +and used by them as a refuge in time of war. Here the guides not +unfrequently point out the house of the beggar Lazarus, opposite to the +arch; and also shew the palace of the wicked Dives, at a little distance +to the south in the same street. This is a house built of different +coloured stones. These 'Jerusalem antiquarians' have converted the +parable into a historic fact, and so endeavoured to preserve the traces +of the dwellings! I suppose they think that the poor men "full of sores" +were of more importance in former times than now. There are still +numbers of lepers, who, from morning to evening, wait outside the Jaffa +Gate to beg; and many give them an alms, but who now ever bestows a +second thought on them, or would remember where they lived? The 'palace +of Dives' is a handsome building of the sixteenth century, erected by +the liberality of Solyman for a hospital. It is still used for the same +purpose by the soldiers belonging to the garrison; but if not soon +repaired, it will share the usual fate of Mohammedan government +property, and fall into ruins. + +The Evangelists tell us that Simon the Cyrenian aided our Lord in +bearing His Cross, but do not mention the place where he encountered +Him[481]. It very probably was near the present Station, or a little to +the south of it, as he no doubt entered the city from the country by +the North Gate or Gate of Ephraim (now the Damascus Gate). A small stone +built into a modern Arab wall marks the place. We must, however, +remember that this street runs upon a mass of rubbish 17 feet thick, as +I discovered during the repairs of the sewer; so that the actual site of +the meeting is covered up. This remark also applies to the next station. +The Mohammedans and Jews are wont to throw dirt at the stone, when they +see Christians kneeling before it, so that one frequently finds it +necessary to make the fanatics undo their work, reminding the former +that Isa (Jesus) was one of their prophets, and the latter that it is no +longer the time to renew the ancient scenes of persecution. I mention +this to shew how serious quarrels frequently arise in Jerusalem, which +are not appeased without much difficulty. + +The Evangelists make no mention of Veronica. Much has been written upon +this point: some considering her to be the sick woman who was healed by +touching the hem of the Saviour's garment[482]; others, a lady of noble +birth named Berenice, whose name was changed to Veronica after she +became a follower of Christ; deriving the word from Vera-icon (true +image)! The tradition of Veronica and the Holy Napkin dates from a very +early period in the history of Christianity; as do the different Holy +Napkins, which are in existence in various places. In 1854 the walls +(Arab work) of the House of Veronica were in a ruinous condition, and +were entirely rebuilt by the Mohammedan owner. I then discovered that +its foundations rested on made ground, so that they were of no very +great age. On digging down for the rock, to lay the new foundations, the +workmen came upon large stones, which I consider to be the remains of +the second wall of the city, not of any former House of Veronica. + +Further on the street is arched over, and in the side-walls are remains +of ancient masonry. Here some place the House of the Wandering Jew! This +tradition however (or rather legend) is not accepted by the Christians +of Jerusalem. The number of stones of ancient Jewish workmanship in the +lower parts of the wall and inside the buildings on each side, and the +position in the line of the second wall, in its course from the Antonia +across the Tyropoeon, lead me to think that the Gate of Ephraim +formerly stood exactly on this spot. The pointed arches in the doors +half buried in the accumulated earth seem to shew that some building +occupied this site in the time of the Crusades. + +Tradition asserts that the sentence of death was affixed to the +Judgement Gate, by which the condemned criminal went out on his way to +execution, and that as our Lord passed by here He fell the second time. +Adrichomius holds that the name is derived from its being the place +where the Sanhedrim assembled to pronounce sentence, but he gives no +reason for their meeting there rather than in any other place. I +consider that probably it was called the Gate of Ephraim[483] previous +to the building of Herod's wall, and that the name was afterwards +changed. The Evangelists make no mention either of it or of the second +fall of Christ. + +Our Lord's meeting with the 'daughters of Jerusalem' is mentioned by S. +Luke[484], but, owing to the circumstance that Titus attacked the second +line of walls from this side, it is obvious that, even if the event +happened in this neighbourhood, all traces of the exact spot must have +been swept away in the changes that the place has undergone; so that the +tradition is valueless. + +The station of the Third Fall needs no comment. With regard to the +Calvary and Sepulchre I have already expressed my opinion in the fourth +chapter. I believe the other stations to be in the neighbourhood of +them, so that while I cannot undertake to fix their exact position, I do +not absolutely refuse to give any credence to them. + +I hold, therefore, that the present Via Dolorosa is only a +representation of the true one; and regard it in the same way as I do +the Stations in Churches; that is, as a useful agent in arousing +religious feelings, and bringing to remembrance the solemn scenes of the +Redeemer's Passion. The changes wrought in the city at its destruction +by Titus and rebuilding by Hadrian, and the numerous alterations at +other times, the accumulation of rubbish, and, above all, the +impossibility of the position of one part of the street, lying, as it +would do, in the north ditch of the Antonia, seem to me insuperable +difficulties in the way of establishing the identity of this with the +road trodden by our Saviour. That I believe to have commenced on the +west side of the Antonia, and to have followed the line of the present +street of S. Helena's Hospital up to the Church of the Holy Sepulchre. +Along this, in my opinion, the Stations might more reasonably be placed; +for, whatever theory be adopted about the tower Antonia, the difficulty +of the valley cannot be explained away. + +I now pass on to consider the other buildings, religious and civil, in +the city; and with this view conduct my reader to S. Mary's Gate, from +which point we will begin our examination. Near the gate is the Church +of S. Ann, now belonging to France. When I first saw it in 1854 it was +used as a shelter for the Governor's horse-soldiers, while the +courtyard, all strewed with ruins, was frequented by camel-drivers, who +tethered their beasts there, so that it had become covered with filth: +and as the Mohammedans took no care of the fabric, it became more +ruinous every day, without any attempt at repairing it, even so far as +was necessary to keep it in use for a stable. Since the year 1761 it had +been abandoned by the Mohammedans, because (as they said) shrieks and +howls were heard every time that they went there; and in 1767 they were +so fully persuaded of this, that the Santon himself, who was in charge +of the place, offered the keys to the Franciscans, by whom (after due +consideration of the consequence of accepting them) they were refused. +It was then entirely deserted, except that the monks, by permission of +the Pasha, continued to celebrate mass in it on the Festival of the +Conception, and on that of the Nativity of the Virgin Mary, who +(according to them) was born there. So matters went on until in 1856 M. +de Barrère happily thought of endeavouring to obtain it for the Roman +Church, and was so well seconded by his government at Constantinople, +that his hopes were realized; for on October 19, 1856, the Sultan +granted it to France, and on November 1, M. de Barrère took possession +of the building with all formality, receiving the keys from Kiamil +Pasha. The repairs were begun about a year ago, and soon Jerusalem will +possess a new church, one of the finest in Palestine. Having given this +preliminary account, let us examine into the history of its foundation +and its vicissitudes. + +Some think that it was founded (as usual) by S. Helena; but of this we +cannot be certain, as it is not mentioned among the churches built by +the Empress, which, according to Nicephorus, exceeded thirty in number. +"Moreover this woman, the mother of the Emperor, most pleasing in God's +sight, founded more than thirty churches in these Holy Places[485]." In +the seventh century the pilgrims speak of a church of the Nativity of +the Virgin near the pool 'Probatica.' S. John of Damascus[486] writes +thus: "The Virgin was brought forth in the house of 'the Probatica,' of +Joachim;" and again, in the First Oration on the Nativity of the +Virgin[487]: "Happy be thou in all respects, O Probatica, ancient temple +of the seed of Joachim, but now a church!" Phocas mentions it in his +description of the remarkable places of Antioch and Jerusalem. Other +authors, from Sæwulf to William of Tyre, name it, and all agree in +placing it on the same spot, and repeating the tradition; but none of +them give us any certain clue to the history of its foundation. As every +one expresses his own opinion on this point, I will follow the general +example[488]. That the church was in existence before the Crusaders +entered Jerusalem is evident from the Arabian historians; for Abulfeda +tells us that under the rule of the Khalifs, before the Franks gained +possession of Jerusalem, the Church of S. Ann was converted into a +college for public instruction[489]. Again, Sæwulf visited it A.D. 1103, +that is, in the first four years of the Latin kingdom, when as yet they +had not thought about building churches. William of Tyre[490] relates +that three or four nuns inhabited the adjoining convent; which is also a +proof of its existence previous to the Crusades; because so small a +number of sisters would not have had the means of building such a +church. Now the remarkable edifices which were erected during the whole +period of the Latin kingdom are recorded by several writers; and many +manuscripts of this age have come down to us. Considering the importance +of this Sanctuary (the supposed birthplace of the Virgin), and the +station in life of those who there dedicated themselves to the monastic +life under the rule of S. Benedict, we can draw but one conclusion from +their silence; namely, that the present building is older than the +Crusades. But further, Arda, wife of Baldwin I., being repudiated by her +husband, entered the convent A.D. 1104, and liberally endowed it. +William of Tyre[491] speaks of her munificence, and also of the unseemly +manner in which she quitted the place. Why then does not he mention the +church? Jueta or Gioeta, daughter of Baldwin II., in 1130, dedicated +herself to the monastic life, and lived in the convent until that of S. +Lazarus at Bethany was finished, which was built for her by her sister +Milisendis. On this occasion also William of Tyre[492] mentions the +buildings, but not the church. + +M. de Vogüé[493] writes as follows: "Towards the middle of the twelfth +century, John of Würtzburg expresses wonder at the number of the nuns +(who followed the rule of S. Benedict), and at their devotion; and +mentions the church; meaning, I think, on this occasion, the church now +remaining." I cannot agree with this opinion, for the reason that, had +the church been rebuilt, the author would not have omitted to mention +it, since it would have been one of the first buildings erected under +the Latin kingdom. If the plates be examined[494], I need not enter into +details, as they will be found sufficiently clear; but will only call +attention to the shape of the church (a trapezium)[495]; a plan which I +think prevents us from attributing it to the time of the Crusaders. I am +therefore induced to consider it as originally a Byzantine building, +which was restored by them. From Plate LXIII. we see that the Church of +S. Cross has the pointed arch like that of S. Ann, and is still +plainer[496]. Now the former was standing when the Persians under +Chosroes II. invaded the country; as is stated by Georgian manuscripts +in the Greek convent of S. Constantine at Jerusalem. Hence the presence +of pointed arches does not forbid us to suppose that S. Ann's Church was +also built before the Crusades. M. de Vogüé[497] says "that the last two +western piers (inside the church) are much more massive than the rest, +and were intended to sustain bell-towers." With this I do not agree, +because the difference in size is imperceptible; indeed, perhaps they +are even smaller than the rest: and further, I do not find the walls at +the north-west and south-west corners sufficiently strong to support +towers; on the contrary, through their weakness they have fallen greatly +to ruin; and lastly, I find no traces of them on the roof. Until then +stronger arguments are brought forward than have hitherto been, I retain +the opinion expressed above; which is, I believe, sustained by history +and the place itself. + +In the church we must not omit to notice the dome as belonging to a date +posterior to the original building, but a little prior to the minaret at +the south-west corner, a large part of which is still standing. + +When Saladin took Jerusalem, A.D. 1187, he established various +institutions for the Mohammedans; and among others founded a school, +A.D. 1192, in the Church of S. Ann, after repairing the injuries caused +by the destruction of the neighbouring convent. The Arabic inscription +on the entrance-gate on the west records this event. It runs as follows: +"In the name of God, kind and merciful! All the blessings ye enjoy come +from God! This sacred _Medresse_ (School) has been founded by the +victorious King, our Master, Salah-ed-Din, Sultan of Islam, and of the +Mohammedans. Abul Muzafar Yusef, son of Eyub, son of Sciasi, has given +life to the empire of the Head of the Faithful. May God bless his +victories, and pour out His bounty upon him, in this world and in the +next. This institution has been founded for the doctors of the rite of +Imam Abu-Abdallah Mohammed, son of Edris-es-Shafei. May God grant him +mercy. The year five hundred and eighty-eight[498]." This school was +deserted in the fifteenth century, owing to the want of means to carry +it on, caused by malversation on the part of its managers. We have seen +what its condition was in 1767. In 1842 Tayar Pasha entertained the +design of re-opening the school, and with that view ordered the interior +to be repaired, and the minaret to be built. The latter however was +never finished, because the builders and stone-masons of Bethlehem (some +of whom told me the circumstances) got on slowly with the work, and even +threw many of the stones prepared for building into the cisterns; acting +thus because they were unwilling to see a place sacred to Christians +profaned by the Mohammedans. By examining the spot, I proved the truth +of the workmen's story; for I found a quantity of prepared materials in +a cistern on the west, and also in another on the south of the church. +Into these I descended before the place was examined by the three French +architects who were sent, one after the other, to Jerusalem to begin the +repairs; which are now progressing well under the superintendence of M. +Mauss, a young man of distinction and great promise. Within the church, +under the choir, is a crypt in which the rock is exposed. There, +according to an old tradition, was the abode of S. Joachim and S. Ann; +and there the Virgin Mary was born. It was already known in the seventh +century, and the first who mentions it is S. John Damascenus[499]. It is +difficult to see what authority can be found to establish the truth of +the tradition. It is doubtful whether the Virgin was born at Jerusalem +or Nazareth; but even supposing she was born at the former place, why +did S. Ann live in a crypt? Surely there were houses in Jerusalem! I +think that the church was simply dedicated to S. Ann. We find in a +manuscript, preserved in the Latin Convent of S. Saviour, that a passage +formerly ran from this church to the Tomb of Mary in the Kidron Valley; +but all my attempts to discover its opening into the interior of the +church were unavailing; perhaps it may be buried under the ruins of the +Convent. In the Tomb of Mary, at the extremity of the western arm of the +cross, there is a doorway closed with masonry, which cannot be seen from +the outside, because of the accumulation of earth. In 1858 a Greek monk +was working in a plot of land on the western bank of the Kidron Valley, +at no great distance from the tomb, and found a cistern, very long from +east to west, hollowed out in the rock, its walls being covered with a +strong cement. When I heard of this I went to examine it, and by +striking the walls inferred the existence of two openings, one on the +east, the other on the west. Perhaps they communicated with the +subterranean passage; and the reason why they are in these positions, +may be that the cistern was made by widening the passage which was +already on the spot. I trust that the architect in charge of the +restoration at S. Ann's Church may be able to discover these +subterranean passages. I do not describe the insignificant remains of +the Convent of Benedictine nuns, because they possess nothing of +interest. Not a capital nor a shaft of a column is to be found among the +shapeless fragments of ruins, which reveal nothing of their former +splendour, nay, not so much as whether they could have been ever +beautiful. + +The Church of the Magdalene (called _Maïmonieh_ by the Arabs) is +situated to the north-west of the Church of S. Ann, and to the +south-east of Herod's Gate. According to tradition it stands on the site +of the house of Simon the Pharisee, where the penitent sinner washed the +Saviour's feet with tears, and wiped them with the hairs of her head. S. +Luke[500] does not mention the place at which this circumstance +occurred. The three other Evangelists[501] state that it happened at +Bethany, so that I cannot admit the truth of the tradition without +denying that of the Bible; consequently I consider the church as only +dedicated to the memory of the penitent Magdalene. All that now remains +of this building is the porch, part of the choir, and the side walls, +which are left standing at irregular heights above the ground; +everything else is a heap of ruins, overgrown with creeping plants; and +in the middle a potter carries on his craft of making pipes, water-pots, +and the like. It is commonly said to be the property of the Greek +Convent, but I am not certain whether this is true. I removed the +rubbish from the interior to search for the remains of pillars, in the +hope of being able to ascertain the plan of the building; but my labours +were fruitless, and I must therefore refer my reader to M. de Vogüé's +work[502], only observing that the Church of the Magdalene does not (as +he asserts) belong to the same class of churches as that of S. Ann, for +the former is a rectangle in plan, the latter a trapezium. For the rest +I highly appreciate the labour he has bestowed upon the subject; but, as +I have not been fortunate enough to verify his discoveries in my +subsequent visits to the spot, I cannot say whether the church belongs +to the era of the Crusades, or to an earlier period. I cannot however +admit that it can be called a French work[503], because the Crusaders +were not French alone, but of many different nations. The same author +writes, "The only contemporaneous documents which we possess relating to +the Magdalene Church are in the account of John of Würtzburg, and in the +Cartulary. He tells us that it was served by the Jacobite monks. 'Near +the city-wall, not far from S. Ann's on the north, is the Church of S. +Mary Magdalene, occupied by the Jacobite monks. These assert that it +stands on the site of the house of Simon the Leper.... A cross marked on +the pavement of the church indicates (according to the same monks) the +spot where Mary knelt at the feet of Jesus[504].' The Cartulary contains +the title of an agreement[505] between the Latin Canons of the Holy +Sepulchre and the Jacobite monks of S. Mary Magdalene. The document is +not dated, but from the signatures it must have been written about A.D. +1160. After Jerusalem had been taken by the Saracens the church was +converted into a school, and was called _Maïmonieh_, the name it still +bears among the Mohammedans. 'The school of _Maimun_' (writes +Mejir-ed-Din) 'near to the gate of the city called Sahera, was formerly +a Greek church (i.e. Christian): it was endowed in 593 (A.D. 1197) by +the Emir Faris-ed-Din-Abu-Said-Maimun, son of Abdallah-el-Kasri, +treasurer of King Salah-ed-Din.'" Let us now consider the testimony +quoted above. John of Würtzburg undertook his journey after the middle +of the twelfth century, and found the Jacobites already established in +the Magdalene Church. Now if the church had been built by the Crusaders, +the pilgrim would have been sure to mention it, nor would they have been +likely to give it up to the Jacobites. I believe that the Canons allowed +it to remain the property of the Jacobites, because it had originally +belonged to them. It also appears to me that the names of the Canons +must be exactly known before it can be proved, on the evidence of the +signatures alone, that the agreement was made in A.D. 1160. Again, why +are the words of Mejir-ed-Din[506], 'a Greek church,' necessarily to be +taken as equivalent to a Christian church? I maintain that Saladin and +his followers were too well acquainted with the difference between the +Latins and the Greeks to make this slip in a public document. I am +therefore inclined to believe that the church had been built before the +arrival of the Crusaders, and that possibly it might have been injured +during the siege, and repaired afterwards by the Jacobites, who were for +that reason allowed to retain it. I cannot adopt any other theory, +because I am unable to understand the Crusaders giving a church to the +Jacobites, who were considered heretical after A.D. 541, because they +maintained that there was but one (the divine) nature in Christ, and +were therefore called Monophysites. + +On the east of the Chapel of the Flagellation is an ancient chapel, +called _Deïr Addas_ by the Mohammedans, and by the Christians, the +Chapel of the Nativity of the Virgin. It is now used as a warehouse. +There is no mention of it in any ancient documents; and it is very +small, being not more than 16 feet wide, with a dome about 10 feet in +diameter. Perhaps it is owing to its insignificance that there is no +dispute about the founders. Its masonry shews that it is older than the +time of the Crusades. + +On the north of the Austrian hospice is the ancient Church of S. Peter, +now converted into a mosque, and kept by the dancing Dervishes. Its plan +consists of a nave with two side aisles of equal length, terminated by +semicircular apses; they are divided by two perfectly plain piers on +each side, sustaining a vaulted roof, with sharp groins, and supported +by pointed arches. The total length of the building (inside) is 40 feet +2 inches, the nave is 10 feet wide from pier to pier, while the north +aisle is 5-1/2 feet, and that on the south, owing to an irregularity in +the wall, is a little narrower, being about 5-1/4 feet. It is difficult +to assign a date to this church, because it is not mentioned by ancient +authors, and is built in a mixture of several styles. Some think that it +belonged to the order of the Knights of S. Lazarus, whose mission was to +succour and cure, if possible, the lepers. From this order has arisen +that of S. Maurice and S. Lazarus of the kingdom of Italy. + +On returning to the central valley we find, exactly at the vaulted +passage under the house of Dives, a street rising westward (which I +consider to have been the true way of the Cross,) and on the south side +of it is a building (several centuries old), of Saracenic architecture, +having doorways elegantly ornamented with arabesques and mosaics, and +with white, red, and black stones found in Palestine[507]. This is +considered, by the Christians, to be the hospital built by the Empress +Helena; and it is said by tradition to have been erected before the +church of the Resurrection, in order to accommodate the labourers +engaged upon it, and to have been afterwards devoted to the reception of +poor pilgrims. I admit the truth of the tradition, but not that the +present building is of that date, for it is entirely Saracenic work. +The Mohammedans call it Tekhiyeh el-Khasseki-Sultane (Convent of the +favourite Sultana), and from documents which they possess in the +_Mekhemeh_ concerning the registers of landed property, it is clear that +it was built by the Sultana Rossellane, the favourite consort of Solyman +the Magnificent, who established there a hospice for the poor and the +pilgrims. It is shewn by the same authorities that the Sultana had +obtained large revenues from the Sultan for the support of this charity, +consisting of an annual tax paid by the villagers of Bethlehem, Bethany, +and Beitjala, together with the fees paid by the Christians on entering +the Church of the Holy Sepulchre. This fact is also confirmed by an +Arabic inscription on a stone built into the wall near the entrance to +the Church of the Holy Sepulchre, at a height of 8 or 9 feet above the +ground. This charitable foundation is still daily at work, but on a +reduced scale, owing to its diminished income. I think, then, that this +charity may have been commenced by S. Helena (whence its name); then +continued by the Latins after her death, and during the Crusades; and +kept up by the Mohammedans after their conquest of Jerusalem, till it +was finally enlarged and enriched by Rossellane; who also built large +rooms there, and resided in it herself to minister to the poor and +destitute; as is stated in the Mohammedan traditions, and in the +chronicles preserved in the mosque _Kubbet es-Sakharah_. + +We will now take a survey of its exterior and interior. At the first +glance the negligence of its managers is evident; for a grand and +magnificent building, the finest in the city, which, if in good order, +would be very useful to the Governor of the place, is becoming every day +more ruinous, without any attempt being made to repair it. In 1859 +Surraya Pasha was desirous of restoring it, and commissioned me to make +a plan, which he afterwards forwarded to Constantinople; but he was not +seconded by the higher authorities, and in course of time the place will +fall down, unless (as is much to be desired) it be purchased by one of +the wealthier Christian communities. During my investigations in the +interior I found the rock, which in one part forms a slope rising +westward, in which place steps are to be seen four feet wide, but not +more than two inches high. These, I think, may be the remains of the +street that went up to Golgotha; because it is in the direction of the +south-west corner of the tower Antonia (as placed by me). The north +façade is built of well-wrought stones of different colours, skilfully +laid with even joints, especially in the door-posts, where lead is +employed instead of mortar. By this side the guides generally conduct +the visitor into the building. On the ground-floor on the east are shewn +several chambers, where the food, distributed among the poor, is +prepared. One, of great size, has a well constructed vaulted roof +supported by piers: it is occupied by horse-mills, which grind the corn +for the establishment; but the millstones are almost useless, the +fittings broken, and the horses only are excellent, as they belong to +the managers, and therefore work little, and feed well. In another place +the bread is made and baked, and is by no means bad. The chamber next +the oven is used as a granary; in this are two large brass caldrons 6 +feet in diameter and 5-1/2 deep, which are no longer used, being too +large. The place which serves as a kitchen is remarkable for its +architecture and its central dome; and I believe that originally it was +a bath-room; it is now all begrimed with dirt, the pavement is broken, +and only one caldron (5 feet in diameter and 4 deep) over a large +furnace is in use; four others are seen as a reproach to the managers, +who keep them unworked, and leave them to be destroyed by the damp, so +that they may then sell them as worthless. In the one in use a quantity +of wheat is boiled, and after being seasoned with good oil, is +distributed among the poor, each of whom also receives from two to four +loaves. This dole is given to all who apply for it, without regard to +their religion. On the great Mohammedan festivals a good piece of meat +is also given to each, with plenty of rice and honey, which are +furnished by the wealthy proprietors, who have made their fortunes out +of the hospital. As this building is assigned to S. Helena by the +Christians, so also are the caldrons. What excellent brass they must be +to have lasted in use from A.D. 326 to the present time! In order to +mount to the upper story it is necessary to leave these rooms and go to +the door opening into the street, more to the west. Let the visitor now +beware where he sets his foot, for a heap of filth covers up several +steps of the stairs, which are flooded in winter with rain-water from +the ruined terrace-roofs, and infested by vermin in summer. It is +therefore better to go round by the central valley to the south gate, +and so avoid the nuisance. I speak from experience. + +On the south is a fine pointed doorway, with well-carved ornaments in +good relief, leading into a spacious hall, in which are medallions +containing good arabesques. Beyond this is a very large court surrounded +by a cloister with pointed arches, which also have arabesques in their +details. The hall, the cloister, and the court, are now only used to +shelter the camels and horses of the first comers; consequently they are +in a filthy state, and their ornaments are daily being destroyed. A +spiral staircase in the north-east corner of the hall leads to the upper +floor, where is a Gothic window of two lights, with a marble column as +mullion, crowned by an elegant arabesque capital. After going over this +floor and mounting to the roof, we see the remains of a splendid +apartment with all the requisites of a Mohammedan _Harem_[508]; but here +care is necessary to avoid a fall. The view from the summit of the +terrace is far from uninteresting; the whole _Haram es-Sherîf_ is well +seen, with a considerable extent of the central valley, the hill Acra +(as placed by me) full in view, and also Bezetha, separated from Moriah, +and rising above it. Here the student and the archæologist will form a +good idea of the topography of the ancient city; and the descriptions +of Josephus, especially with reference to Acra and Bezetha, will be +readily understood. + +Opposite to S. Helena's Hospital on the north is a Saracenic house, +apparently of the same date, which is in a very unsafe state. In the +south façade is a great number of delicately wrought and interesting +arabesques. It is used by certain Mohammedans, who meet there for +prayer. They belong to an order of Dervishes, who are very free from +fanaticism, and employed in doing good. When I speak of the convents +belonging to the different sects, I will give a fuller account of them. + +To the south of the House of Dives is seen on the east side of the road +the front of a Saracenic fountain[509], which (as is stated by an +inscription) belongs to the age of Solyman. To avoid repetition, I may +mention that all the fountains in Jerusalem, so far as regards their +ornamentation, belong to the same epoch. It is now dry, because the +revenues, destined to supply it with water and repair its conduit, have +been absorbed by their former managers. + +Keeping along the valley towards the south we come to a street leading +up to Temple Street; following this westward, we find on the left, after +a few yards, a Saracenic doorway, the ornamental details of which are +elegant and well executed[510]. It was the entrance to a boys' school +for Mohammedans, founded by Omar, and afterwards enriched by Saladin; +but a mass of ruins is the only memorial remaining of their liberality. +Near this gate on the west is a street; and at the beginning of this, an +opening in the ground covered with a large slab, giving admission into a +passage leading to the Fountain of the Virgin in the Kidron valley; of +which I shall speak again at greater length. + +Opposite to the above-named gate is an ancient edifice, which, from the +masonry, may be attributed to Saladin or Solyman; it is called by the +Mohammedan chronicle the Hospital of Omar. I have examined the interior, +and it appears to me, from the arrangement of some of the principal +walls, to have been a church in the days of the Latin kingdom, most +probably the Church of S. Giles, mentioned by various writers of the +time of the Crusades[511]. The Saracenic architecture in its façade may +have been the addition of one of the two above-named Sultans, and shews +how rich the neighbourhood of Jerusalem is in fine coloured stones, +which take a polish like marble. Many of these are fastened together +with lead without mortar. This building might be thoroughly restored for +a small sum of money; but it is involved in the same destiny as all the +other ancient buildings belonging to the Mohammedans in Jerusalem, and +unless it be sold will soon be a heap of ruins. + +In a small street on the west of the above is an ancient edifice, which +shews the hand of a skilful architect in the regularity of its façade, +and the arrangement of its inner walls. The wall of the former consists +of small stones with deeply-cut rustic-work up to the level of the first +floor; along which runs a very plain cornice beneath a row of +square-headed windows, also crowned with a projecting cornice. The +remainder of the façade is constructed of polished stones accurately +laid. In the ground-floor rooms, now converted into offices, are the +shafts and capitals of columns, and from the general appearance of the +building we may infer that it has been a chapel. Local traditions state +that it once belonged to the Germans; and it is not impossible that it +may have been a dependency of the establishment that afterwards gave +birth to the Teutonic order of knights. Returning to the Hospital of +Omar, and following the small street opposite to it, we arrive, after +crossing the central valley, at the spot on the western wall of the +_Haram_, where the Jews (as we have already mentioned[512]) come to +bewail the calamities of their nation. The stranger who visits the place +when the unhappy sons of Israel are gathered together there, returns +saddened by the sight of their grief. Ceaselessly swaying their bodies +from side to side, they utter their prayers in a wailing chant, broken +by sighs and sobs, as they kneel among the ruins of their departed +grandeur, a feeble and waning remnant in their fatherland. This +continual motion, as I was informed, is in memory of the wandering of +their ancestors, during the forty years that elapsed between their +exodus from Egypt and their entry into Canaan. Having easy access to the +_Haram_, and the power of introducing any person with me, I several +times offered to take various Jews into the place, and shew them the +true remains of the Temple of Solomon and of Herod; but they always +refused for the following reason. When the Temple was destroyed a great +number of holy vessels were buried in the ruins; therefore every Jew in +the Holy City refrains from visiting the sacred enclosure, for fear of +treading upon their dust, and so confines himself to lamenting outside +the wall. If one of them enters the _Haram_ (so they told me), he is +excommunicated by the chief Rabbi, and expelled by the whole body as a +sacrilegious person. All rules, however, have their exceptions, and so +has this; for Baron de Rothschild and Sir M. Montefiore, on the occasion +of their visit to Jerusalem, obtained permission from the authorities +and entered the _Haram_. This greatly displeased many of their brethren, +who grumbled loudly at it in secret; but the excommunication was not +fulminated; perhaps because they remembered that these gentlemen had +liberally aided in supporting them in times past, and were likely to do +so for the future; and consequently thought it would be very foolish to +offend them by an act of ignorant fanaticism. + +Returning by the same street, we will now enter the Jewish Quarter and +visit the synagogues. The great ancient synagogue may be compared to a +vaulted cave; the way into which is down a badly constructed and worse +kept staircase. Some piers which were formerly ornamented with +wood-carvings and gilding (of which some slight traces still remain) +sustain the roof of these subterranean chambers, many parts of which +threaten to fall down. They are lighted by the feeble rays that struggle +through the broken panes of the closely grated windows. The place is +always damp, both from its low situation, and from the water which runs +into it during the winter-rains by the staircase, the windows, and the +leaky vaulted roof. Round the upper part of the chamber latticed wooden +galleries are built; but these are so separated one from another, and so +patched from repeated repairs, that they look more fit to be fowl-pens +than seats for the women, who seem to me to occupy a very dangerous +position. Below are shattered, rotten, worm-eaten benches, haunted by +swarms of voracious fleas, which are occupied by the men. At the end of +each chamber is a kind of wooden cupboard, with more or less tasteless +ornament about it, in the middle of which is the tabernacle, usually +covered with a torn curtain, which on festival days only is replaced by +another, given by some European benefactress. The tabernacle contains +nothing but a copy of the Scriptures, written on parchment rolls. The +tables of the law are kept with a holy veneration in the principal of +these chambers, wrapped up in a purple cloth embroidered with gold. +While the services are going on, each Israelite has upon his head a +piece of striped blue and white woollen cloth, edged with a cord, which +hangs down from each corner. Many also wear a little box on their +foreheads in which a copy of the ten commandments or of some other +passages of Scripture is enclosed[513]. When the Rabbins unroll the +parchment before the worshippers, each draws near to touch it reverently +with the end of one of the cords of his veil. The sad and solemn +psalmody of the Doctors of the law, answered by verses of the Bible +recited by all the people, with sighs and every manifestation of +profound grief, produces a feeling of compassion for this unhappy +remnant of Israel, whose constancy and resignation under so long and +heavy a burden seem to deserve a better fate. + +What I have said of this synagogue may also be applied to the rest, +which, as they are smaller, so are they more inconvenient, and in a +still more ruinous condition. During my stay in the city a new synagogue +was built on the eastern slope of Sion, called the Polish. It rises +majestically, and its dome dominates over a large portion of the city, +but I know too well that it will not last long, as its foundations are +bad; because the master-mason who directed the work had not sufficiently +examined the ground, and so mistook its nature. They were laid in a +great measure on ancient walls, which, not so much from ignorance of +their existence, as from a mistaken economy, were not properly examined. +Therefore when the new walls were finished, and the greater part of the +dome completed, cracks, caused by a settlement, appeared all along the +building. Consequently it became necessary to strengthen the foundations +and to modify the design of the façade by closing up arches and windows, +and using iron tie-rods. At present it seems likely to stand for some +years; but not for a long period, as its materials and masonry are not +very strong. + +A German synagogue on the east of the Polish, reached by threading a +labyrinth of dirty lanes, is now being repaired. Those in charge of the +work have begun to restore the façade, over which they have wasted a +great quantity of money in loading it with useless ornament; and have +paid no attention to the interior, which, in my opinion, should be the +first consideration: consequently they are now at a standstill for want +of funds. There are other small synagogues in the Jewish Quarter, but +these are not worth notice, being only rooms used for that purpose. + +Quitting the Jewish Quarter by its south side in order to reach the Sion +Gate, we come upon the Armenian property, and stop a little to examine +their churches. In the outer wall of the Convent, close to the Gate of +David, is a small chapel, said to occupy the site of the house of Annas +the High-Priest, father-in-law to Caiaphas[514], whither our Saviour was +brought after he had been made prisoner at Gethsemane. The tradition is +not very old, and is of little value, because, after so large a part of +the city towards the south has been destroyed, and the whole greatly +changed by the ravages of Titus's army and other causes, it is highly +improbable that the site of a house can be exactly fixed. +Adrichomius[515] says of this chapel, "the house of Annas, father-in-law +to Caiaphas, where afterwards the Church of the Holy Angels was built." +It is small, but divided into a nave and two side aisles by two pillars, +which sustain the vaulted roof. + +Outside this chapel, near the wall, is a very old olive-tree, which +gives rise to the Arab name _Deir-Zeitun_ (Convent of the Olive). It +certainly is not so old as the time of our Saviour, as it could not have +escaped the ravages of the Roman troops, and besides, is growing upon a +thick mass of rubbish. The Armenian monks relate that the Saviour was +tied to it when he was brought to the High-Priest's house; and in +consequence of this legend, the Christians (especially those of the +East) hold the tree in great veneration, and think themselves happy if +they can procure a little piece of it. On this point I may adopt the +words of the Abbé Mariti[516]. "In order to check the rush of devotees +upon this tree, and to preserve the advantages resulting from it, the +Armenians have surrounded it with a wall to prevent the faithful from +approaching near to it. Of its fruit they make rosaries, which they +present to pilgrims, who requite the donors with large gifts. In order +to increase the fervour of devotion they keep a lamp burning near the +tree, the oil of which is said by the monks to have worked miracles;" +and therefore has a ready sale among the credulous. + +The Church of S. James the Great, one of the best in Palestine, belongs +to the Armenians. Its founder is not positively known, but it was +certainly built after the departure of the Crusaders from Jerusalem. It +is generally thought that it was one of the Spanish Kings, probably +Peter of Arragon, who in 1362, being on terms of amity with the Sultan, +gave large gifts to the Holy Land. The name of the church (after the +patron Saint of Spain), and tradition, are in favour of this +supposition. After the Mohammedan conquest of the city, the Armenians +doubtless occupied it and the adjoining convents, but it is stated in +Jerusalem (by the Franciscans) that in the time of Ibrahim Pasha, A.D. +1837, when the Armenians were obliged to prove their title to certain +parts of the convent and church by producing documents, they had none in +their archives, and, under false pretences, came to the Franciscans to +see if they had preserved any. This would shew that they had some doubt +themselves to their right to the property they enjoy. However, one of +their members (a respectable Armenian from Constantinople) to whom I +mentioned this, asking him whether it were true, asserted that they had, +besides firmans of Omar Kotab, of Saladin, and others, one from Mohammed +himself. This he affirmed with shouts and gesticulations, and with every +sign which an Oriental uses to impress his hearer with a belief in his +veracity. He promised to shew me this document, but some how or other +never found an opportunity, although, unquestionably, the monks do +exhibit it to credulous pilgrims. The church is well worth notice. It is +said to stand on the spot where the Saint was martyred[517], but it +would be difficult to prove the truth of the tradition. The façade[518] +is very plain, and of later date than the rest of the building. It has a +porch where the Easterns leave their shoes before entering the doors; +both from reverence, and to avoid injuring the marble pavement and rich +Persian carpets. In the upper part of the porch is a gallery, occupied +by the women during service, so that they are separated from the men. +The interior is divided into a nave and two side aisles, of different +dimensions, by four large piers, and is lighted by a graceful dome. On +the walls are pictures, which are very remarkable both from the subjects +and style of painting; for example, in depicting the souls in purgatory, +the artist seems to have had before his mind one of Dante's divisions of +Hell. There is a profusion of gilding and mosaic work; the latter is +admirable, being composed of the different breccias abundant in the +country. The design of the inlaid work of mother-of-pearl and +tortoise-shell is remarkably good; and, in a word, the whole church is +kept in such excellent order, that it is an honour to its owners. On the +right hand we find, on entering, a small chapel richly ornamented with +marble and inlaid work, where the supposed spot of the Saint's martyrdom +is shewn. The Latin monks are permitted by the Armenians to celebrate +mass here on the festival of the Saint. On the same side, but nearer the +entrance, is the treasury, which is worth a visit, not so much for the +gems it contains as for certain Armenian antiquities, among which the +most remarkable are some sceptres of the ancient kings, and a staff made +of a single piece of amber 3-1/2 feet long. A piece of the true Cross, +three inches long and as thick as the third finger, enclosed in a casket +enriched with precious stones, is preserved among the numerous relics. +The Latins assert that it belongs to them, and was appropriated by the +Armenians when they were exposed to persecution. In the Chapel of S. +Miazim is a box containing three large stones, which the monks exhibit +with great reverence, stating that one came from Mount Horeb, another +from the Jordan, and the third from Mount Tabor. Thus far I can believe +them; but, in order to render them more marvellous, they say that they +formed part of the twelve stones which the children of Israel set up in +the Jordan[519]. The Armenians had discovered this fact before A.D. +1628, because it was related to and believed by a certain Alberto +Follesi, a Florentine of that date. They have the property of +foretelling rain and wind. + +On leaving the Church of S. James, and following the street to the +north, we find, on the right, a small arch opening on to a street +running eastward; and going some little distance along this, we see, on +the left, a ruined chapel, which, at the time of the Crusades, was the +traditional site of S. Peter's prison[520]. + +Keeping along the street which turns to the north we reach the Syrian +convent, in which is a church said to stand upon the site of the House +of S. Mark, whither S. Peter went on his release from prison[521]. Here +a font is shewn, which is asserted to be the one used for the Virgin +Mary. Besides this there is nothing else remarkable within. It is really +surprising how the Christians at Jerusalem have preserved all the +traditions of the most ordinary localities, and been able to discover +the exact spots after all the changes and injuries the city has +undergone! Behind the English church and near the English hospital is +the small Church of S. James the Less; its plan is an oblong of 32 feet +by 19. The choir, with a cornice running round it on the inside, is +still to be seen. It is said to occupy the site of the ancient House of +S. James. + +The English church was built in 1841. It is a cruciform Gothic building, +which style (in my opinion) is altogether out of place in Jerusalem. The +interior is not remarkable. The services are performed with propriety, +and it is the only church free from the insect-plagues of Jerusalem, +and in which the visitor can pray undisturbed by noise or laughter; +because the number of worshippers is small, and the Eastern Christians +are not attracted there by any pomp or ceremony. I may venture to add, +that perhaps this latter circumstance is the reason why the number of +proselytes does not increase in proportion to the benevolent exertions +of the Jews' Society. Both its members, and the zealous missionaries who +from time to time sojourn in the country, should not be ignorant of the +nature of the spirit with which they daily have to deal in the East, and +should know that the greatest obstacle to their success is the severe +form of their religion. The Oriental dislikes reading, and is averse to +hearing sermons, which he either does not understand or is wearied by. +He is more gained over by the eye than by the ear, and is with +difficulty persuaded that a priest in a black gown or plain white +surplice can be as important a person as one of his 'Papas,' who wears a +magnificent vestment in the church, shouts and chants loudly, and makes +a thousand signs of the cross, and as many genuflexions. More ceremony +and a more elaborate ritual would contribute greatly to the success of +the English missionaries, whose excellent organization and conduct +deserves all praise. + +Nearly opposite to the above is the citadel of Jerusalem, called the +Castle of David, or of the Pisans. I have already spoken[522] of all the +objects of antiquarian interest which are to be seen there; and have +nothing to add beyond expressing my surprise at the carelessness of the +government in suffering every part of it to fall into decay. The +garrison of the city is not quartered there, but only a guard is posted +at the entrance, to prevent any one from going inside who is not +furnished with an order from the Commandant of the place. The reason of +this strictness is that part of it is used as a powder magazine; and +besides, some cannon are kept there, most of which are useless, as they +have been spiked or battered. Formerly various pieces of armour of the +time of the Crusades, which had been found in the neighbourhood of the +city and in other parts of Palestine, were preserved here, but the +collection has been dispersed. Some of the principal officers of the +garrison thought fit to represent to the department of artillery at +Constantinople, that it would be a good plan to dispose of them, as they +were articles of no value. The requisite order was quickly given, and +then, according to the usual custom of the government, the money was +kept back from the exchequer and used for private purposes. The +traveller who mounts to the top of the tower will be well repaid by the +general view of the surrounding country. The scenery is unattractive and +almost saddening; ranges of arid hills enclose the city, white with bare +faces of heated rock, whereon no herbage grows. Both near and far these +are dotted over with ruined Arab cottages, with little mosques and +tombs; and when the eye turns aside to range over the intervening +fields, it finds nothing more pleasing on which to repose. Everywhere is +barrenness, everywhere desolation; below there seems to lie a city of +the dead rather than of the living; around, a land of tombs rather than +of men. + +Going from the citadel along the street toward the north-west we arrive +at the Latin Convent of S. Saviour, within which is the parish-church of +the same title. On each side two pillars supporting the very low vaulted +roof divide the nave from the two side aisles. In front of the high +altar rises a little slightly-depressed dome, and opposite to it is the +choir with well-carved stalls. The size of the building in length and +breadth is also very small in comparison with the number of people +frequenting it. For many years past the monks have had a plan for +enlarging it; but they have always been prevented from carrying their +design into effect by the prohibition of the authorities; and so the +Latins have to suffer from heat or damp according to the season of the +year. It is therefore to be hoped that the place will soon be made more +commodious. + +Besides the churches and chapels which I have already noticed, many +others are indicated either by ruins, or tradition, or history +(especially by the chronicles of the time of the Crusades[523]); but as +they are now destroyed, or at least no longer used for worship, and +their remains are not of any interest, I pass them over in silence. It +is stated[524] that at the time of the Crusades the Christians possessed +as many as three hundred and sixty-five churches and monasteries in +Jerusalem. I now proceed to mention those convents which still belong to +the different religious communities, the number of which is far below +that just mentioned. + +The Latin Convent of S. Saviour is the chief and greatest of those +belonging to the Guardians of the Holy Land. Here dwell the Superiors of +the Friars Minor of the Order of S. Francis; and consequently from it +orders and instructions are issued to all the rest of the convents, +which are dependencies of the Holy Guardianship, in Constantinople, +Egypt, Cyprus, Syria, and Palestine. The site of the building is one of +the best in Jerusalem, as it stands on the highest part of Mount Gareb, +near the north-west corner of the city-wall, and there looks down upon +the greater part of the city. It resembles a castle rather than a +convent; but this is due to the additions made by the monks during the +three centuries it has been in their hands, rather than to its original +design. The first abode of the Franciscans was on Mount Sion (which I +will describe in speaking of the 'Coenaculum'), but being dispossessed +by the Mohammedans A.D. 1550, they were obliged to occupy a place on +the same hill, called from its smallness the 'Oven.' In course of time, +being assisted by contributions from Europe, they hired from the +Georgians the Convent of S. Saviour (then called _Deir 'Amud_, Convent +of the Column), where they established themselves on a surer footing +inside the city. This they afterwards purchased from the proprietors, +A.D. 1559, by the favour of the Sublime Porte, who imposed on them hard +conditions[525]. The price of the ground was 1000 sultanins (about +£120), and that of the buildings 1200 Venetian sequins; but as the +property was much too small they obtained permission to increase it, +A.D. 1561, and again on other occasions, and so gradually brought it to +its present condition. The earliest part of the convent is that which is +round the church. There are two entrances, a large door on the south +side, and a small one on the west; both are strengthened and defended +with iron, a necessary precaution in a country where the power of +self-defence is requisite in case of popular tumults; which now, +however, very rarely occur. By entering the great door we can visit the +ground-floor of the convent, in which we find many large cisterns, hewn +in the rock, and supplied by the rains. When there is a drought in the +country, the poor Latins, and not seldom the Mohammedans, draw their +supplies of water from these. Here we see all the offices required by a +great convent that entertains and supports a large number of pilgrims, +such as gardens and courts, stables, extensive cellars, storehouses for +food, wood, and charcoal, horse-mills, ovens, and forges; shops for +carpenters, turners, shoemakers, and wax-candles; a dispensary well +supplied with medicines, and zealously and efficiently served, always +liberally open to all comers; and lastly, a printing-press, which though +small is admirably managed, and annually publishes books on religious +subjects in Arabic, Latin, Italian, and other languages; the type being +cast on the premises. In the upper story are the monks' cells, the +apartment of the Guardian of the Holy Land, and that of the Procurer +General, an infirmary, reserved for the brethren, workshops, in some of +which the vestments are made, in others the clothing of the monks; a +shop where the manufactures of the Holy Land are sold, such as rosaries, +shell-work, crosses, and the like[526]; a library containing some most +valuable manuscripts and many excellent books; and finally, the Church +of S. Saviour (mentioned above), with the adjoining sacristy. In this a +very great number of objects are preserved, valuable not only for the +intrinsic worth of the precious metals and jewels which they contain, +but also for the work of the artists who made them. These are but rarely +shewn, and the more splendid have not seen the light for years. They are +the gifts of many of the European courts in past and present times, and +of countries which have had a love for the Holy Land. The convent +ordinarily contains about fifty inmates, clerics and laics; but can hold +a much greater number; as in fact it does at the Easter festivals. + +The Latin Patriarchate is a house belonging to the Franciscans, which +was intended for a hospice. In 1859 the foundations of the new +Patriarchate were laid near the north-west corner of the city. It is not +yet finished, but before long Jerusalem will possess a good new house, +which, while convenience is not sacrificed to vain show, will be +internally well arranged. M. Valerga himself drew the plan. + +Opposite to the Latin Convent of S. Saviour on the south, is that of the +Sisters of S. Joseph, who have been lodged in two native houses, altered +to receive them. The interior is very confined and damp, and in +consequence unhealthy. The poor nuns, in number fourteen, suffer with +resignation, waiting until it please Heaven to grant them a better +abode, and with that a wider field for their benevolent labours in the +instruction of poor girls. + +To the north of the arch of the 'Ecce Homo' is the Convent of the +Daughters of Sion, which I have already mentioned[527]. It is a new +building, the interior of which might have been very well arranged, but +the plans of the architect were continually altered by the +changeableness of a person who had that power. We, however, must not +deny to him the merit of having introduced into Palestine this excellent +order, whose members came thither with the object of converting the +Jews, but at present are occupied in educating orphans. + +The Greek Catholic Convent is near the Jaffa Gate, and is inhabited by +two or three 'Papas,' whose Bishop usually resides at S. Jean d'Acre. +Internally it is in no respect worth notice. The church is a very large +modern room; and on its south wall is a singular picture representing +the Last Judgement, Paradise and Hell; angels are contending fiercely +with devils, and the condemned struggling with the righteous on the +banks of a river, whereon Charon is rowing his boat. The seven mortal +sins are also unmistakeably represented. The painting is not fitted for +the walls of a church. + +The Armenian Catholics have at present only a single monk in Jerusalem, +a good and energetic man. As the representative of his co-religionists +he purchased in 1856 a plot of land containing the third station of the +Via Dolorosa, and bounded on the south by the fourth station. This he +would not have been able to acquire, had he not been aided by the alms +of his party and the support of M. de Barrère, the French consul, who, +as usual, earnestly pressed his cause with the local authorities. The +property was utterly neglected by the Mohammedans so long as it was in +their possession, and considered to be the ruin of an ancient bath; the +eastern part was used as the Pasha's stable. A church, convent, and +hospice for pilgrims, will soon rise upon the spot; and I trust that in +removing the ruins they will discover some traces of the second line of +walls, which I believe to have passed over this ground. + +The central Convent of the orthodox Greeks is that of S. Constantine, +which is situated on the west of the Church of the Resurrection. +Attached to it, on the north side, is the Patriarch's house, which has +no architectural merit, but is well arranged and comfortable, with a +good garden. The convent itself, though very large, is no better than a +labyrinth of cottages of different sizes and heights, which have been +bought from time to time and joined together as best they could. It is +therefore full of court-yards, large and small, lanes, passages, and +flights of steps; and has also a small but well-kept garden, near the +sacristy. Inside is an excellent dispensary, and all the offices and +workshops, which this Royal Convent requires, not only for its own +purposes, but also for the use of all its dependencies, especially those +in Jerusalem. The chapel is dedicated to S. Constantine; it abuts +against the rotunda of the Holy Sepulchre, and is of great antiquity. It +is adorned as well with pavements of valuable marbles, as with original +pictures, curious specimens of Byzantine art; and possesses a great +number of sacred silver vessels and magnificent vestments. There is also +a very ill-arranged and dusty library, rich in Greek, Arabic, and +Georgian manuscripts, and in ancient Byzantine books; but they are +rarely examined, consequently the rats and worms are more attentive to +them than the monks. They cannot be seen without the permission of the +Patriarch or his deputy; nor can the treasury, which is full of ancient +works of Byzantine art, given by Russia and every other country in which +the members of the Greek church are found, and the cry of Jerusalem is +heard. I have never seen it, nor am I aware of any other traveller who +has. In the lower parts of the buildings, on the east, the native rock +appears, which is a continuation upwards of that seen inside the Church +of the Resurrection, at the tombs of Nicodemus and Joseph of Arimathea. +The parts of the convent near the Holy Sepulchre, and to the east and +south, enable us to understand the words of William of Tyre[528] +concerning the Hospitalers, "That during the disputes between the Canons +and the Knights, the latter shot arrows out of their own convent into +that of their adversaries." In fact, the Canons then inhabited the +south-east part of the present Greek convent, as well as the church, and +the part behind to the north of it. There are fifty monks in the +convent, and six Bishops, besides Archimandrites, Priests, and laics; +about eighty in all. They are distinguished by the title of Monks of the +Sepulchre. Besides these is a large number of boys who attend upon the +Papas and the church, and wear the monastic dress; and many servants +taken from the people of the city. + +In addition to the convent of S. Constantine, the Greeks possess many +other convents in Jerusalem. These are, S. Demetrius, S. George of the +Hospital, S. Michael the Archangel[529], S. John the Fore-runner, S. +George of the Hebrews (in whose church is an ancient Byzantine mosaic +pavement), S. Charalampes, S. Abraham, S. Nicholas (where an ancient +Georgian church is worth a visit, as well as the printing-office, which +publishes good reprints of books in excellent type), the succursal of +Gethsemane, and a new convent by the Damascus Gate. Each of these is +under the government of a Prior, who performs service in their +respective chapels, and, at the season of pilgrimages, entertains +strangers sent to him from the great convents; by whom, as I will +explain presently, his revenues are chiefly supplied. + +The nunneries are, Megala Panagia (Great S. Mary's), S. Theodore, S. +Basil (near the position I assign to the tower Psephinus; the Dead Sea +is visible from its terrace-roofs); S. Catharine, Micra Panagia (Little +S. Mary's), and S. Euthymius[530]. The females who come on pilgrimage to +the Holy City are entertained in these. The Prioresses and the sisters +are taken from the lower orders, and many of them act as servants in the +convents of the Priors and Papas. + +The principal Armenian convent, to which the Patriarchate is attached, +is on Mount Sion. Its great extent, its situation, its many advantages, +its excellent masonry, and, above all, its admirable internal +arrangements, render it unquestionably the best establishment in the +city. It may be compared to a fortress, without ditches indeed, yet +strong enough to defend itself against an attack of the populace or of +the peasants in case of a riot. Its terrace-roofs command an extensive +panorama, and would supply an ample space for exercise to the monks, +even without the large courts and gardens enclosed within its walls. The +latter are the best in the city, and contain some majestic +cypress-trees, and some cedars, which the vivid fancy of the Easterns +attributes to the age of David. This belief is shared by the pilgrims, +and slips of them never fail to fetch a high price. The west front of +the convent is European work, of the same date as the church. The +Armenians assert that it was erected by Spain for a hospital or hospice; +but nothing certain is known on this point. The Patriarch's apartment is +most comfortable and well appointed. The library is well kept. Many of +the books are of no great value; but there are some important +manuscripts and rare liturgies. The printing-press is well managed: they +print in Armenian, Arabic, and sometimes Turkish characters, and publish +reprints of ancient liturgies and tales, but no books of any size. The +full complement of monks, including the laics, together with the +Patriarch and two Bishops, is from forty to fifty. This number is +necessary in order to supply the services of the Church of the +Resurrection, the Sepulchre of the Virgin, and the Convent of Caiaphas +outside the Sion Gate. + +The interior of the Syrian convent is not remarkable. It is a plain +ordinary Arab building, but outside it on the north is a great pointed +arch entirely built up, called by the Orientals the Gate of S. Mark's +House, at which S. Peter knocked. As the arch and its foundations are of +the date of the Crusades, I of course do not believe the legend. The +Syrian Bishop has two or three monks, who assist him in performing the +church services and in receiving pilgrims. + +Some houses near the church belong to the English mission, and are +inhabited by the missionaries and other persons attached to it. They are +neat, but do not call for special mention. + +The Prussian mission possesses a house near the Judgement Gate, occupied +by the Pastor who has the spiritual charge of the mission, and another, +near the English church, inhabited by deaconesses, who are engaged in +the instruction of girls (as I shall presently explain), and in +rendering charitable aid to the sick. + +The Coptic convent is on the north of and near to the Pool of Hezekiah; +it is a plain Arab house. Its inmates are far from clean, and the +visitor generally carries away unpleasant reminiscences of their +dwelling; they also possess another house near the north-east corner of +the Church of the Resurrection, of which I have already spoken[531]; as +well as of the miserable dens that shelter the Abyssinians. + +The convent of the Kusbeck Dervishes stands against the south end of the +arch of the Ecce Homo. With the exception of their chief, they are +engaged in work in Jerusalem, and spend the money thus earned in +pilgrimages to the Mohammedan sanctuaries. They are sober, prayerful, +peaceable men, free from the vice of fanaticism. When I was +superintending the buildings of the Daughters of Sion I had good +opportunity of learning their character. Even at the time of the +massacres of Lebanon I never saw them shewing signs of joy. Their chief +is an intelligent and very moderate man. + +The convent of the Dancing Dervishes is on the summit of Bezetha (as I +call it), next to the ancient Church of S. Peter, which I have already +mentioned. Inside and outside, especially in the lower part, we see +remains of the Crusaders' work. At the present time there are only two +inmates, who are more disposed to good than evil. Its minaret commands a +view of Jerusalem, and of the whole length of the Tyropoeon valley, +from which the topography of the ancient city is far more readily +understood than from any description or plan. + +The Howling or Lancer Dervishes, as I call them, do not live in a +community, but very frequently assemble in a house opposite to the +Hospital of S. Helena, which may be considered as their convent. Many of +the principal Effendis of the city belong to this order. The badge of +membership is a necklace of wooden beads round the neck, and a long +staff with an iron lance-head in the hand. They were founded by an old +Mohammedan santon, an inhabitant of the neighbourhood of S. Jean +d'Acre, who came to Jerusalem in 1856 to preach a course of sermons. +When these dervishes hold their meetings, or are coming from them, they +sing at the top of their voices in the streets, from which practice I +have given them their name. Their distinctive marks might lead us to +mistrust them, but in difficult circumstances they have proved +themselves worthy of confidence; so perhaps I did wrong when I was +hard-hearted enough to break the lance-handle of a country dervish, who +met me on the Jaffa road, and demanded a _bakshish_ rather in the tone +of a soldier than of a monk. I made him amends by repairing his lance, +and gave it back to him, comforting him with the assurance that it would +be as good as ever for the next traveller he met. + +The Jews have no establishments where the Doctors and Rabbins live in +common, so that I pass over in silence their dwellings, which are +destitute of everything except neatness. + +I believe that I have now gone through all the buildings in the interior +of Jerusalem without exception, and have only to speak of the waters; +but these I shall leave for another chapter, and consider them after I +have described the neighbourhood. + + +FOOTNOTES: + +[460] Plate II. + +[461] Page 64. + +[462] Jewish War, V. 5, § 8. + +[463] Ibid. V. 5, § 8. + +[464] Ibid. V. 4, § 2. + +[465] Plate XI. + +[466] S. Cyril. Catech. Lect. XIII. (Libr. of Fathers, Vol. II. p. 163). + +[467] Holy City, Vol. II. p. 375. + +[468] De Vogüé, Les Églises de la Terre Sainte, p. 299, quoting from +Gesta Francorum expugn. Hierus. Bongars. p. 573. + +[469] Quoted by De Vogüé, p. 299. + +[470] Elucidatio Terræ Sanctæ, Lib. IV. Pereg. 6, c. 2, Vol. II. p. 181, +col. 2, ed. 1639. + +[471] Ibid. + +[472] Elucidatio Terræ Sanctæ, Lib. IV. Pereg. 6, c. 5, Vol. II. p. 196, +col. 2, ed. 1639. + +[473] Hist. de l'état présent de Jérus. Ch. XIII. + +[474] Note I; Plates XII., XIII. + +[475] S. John xix. 5. + +[476] Ch. III. page 60. + +[477] Histoire de l'état présent de Jésus. Ch. XIII. + +[478] S. Luke xxiii. 7-11. + +[479] Jewish War, I. 3, § 3. + +[480] M. de Vogüé (Les Églises de la Terre Sainte, p. 304) states that +it is mentioned in the Citez de Jherusalem. + +[481] S. Matt. xxvii. 32; S. Mark xv. 21; S. Luke xxiii. 26. + +[482] S. Matt. ix. 20. + +[483] Nehem. xii. 39. + +[484] S. Luke xxiii. 28. + +[485] Nicephorus, H. E. Lib. VIII. c. 30. + +[486] De Fide Orth. Lib. IV. 14. Quoted by Quaresm. E. T. S. Lib. IV. +Pereg. 3, c. 12., Tom. II. p. 103, col. 2, ed. 1639. + +[487] C. 11 (cf. c. 6), also quoted by Quaresm. Ibid. + +[488] See De Vogüé, Les Églises, pp. 233, et seq. + +[489] Note II. + +[490] Lib. XI. c. 1. Gesta Dei, Vol. II. p. 795 (ed. 1611). + +[491] Lib. XI. c. 1. Gesta Dei, Vol. II. p. 795 (ed. 1611). + +[492] Lib. XV. c. 26. Gesta Dei, Vol. II. p. 887 (ed 1611). + +[493] Les Églises, &c. pp. 242, 243. + +[494] Plates XL., XLI., XLII. + +[495] I was the first person who made a plan of it before it came into +the possession of France. + +[496] Note III. + +[497] Les Églises, &c. p. 235. + +[498] i.e. of the Hejra, corresponding with A.D. 1192. + +[499] De Fide Orthodoxa, Lib. VI. c. 5. + +[500] S. Luke vii. 37, 38. + +[501] S. Matt. xxvi. 6, 7; S. Mark xiv. 3; S. John xii. 1. + +[502] Les Églises de la Terre Sainte, p. 292. + +[503] Ibid. p. 294. + +[504] John of Würtzburg, c. VII. + +[505] Cartulary, p. 221: "Between the Latin Canons of the most glorious +Sepulchre and the Jacobite monks of S. Mary Magdalene." + +[506] Mejir-ed-Din, p. 123. + +[507] Plate XLIII. + +[508] The part of a house assigned to the females of a family. + +[509] Plate XLIV. + +[510] Plate XLIV. + +[511] La Citez de Jherusalem: see De Vogüé, Les Églises, &c. pp. 303, +439. Furnus S. Egidii in vico Templi. Cart. p. 331. + +[512] Ch. III. page 72. + +[513] A custom derived from a literal interpretation of Deut. vi. 8. See +also Prov. vi. 21; vii. 3. + +[514] S. John xviii. 13. + +[515] Adric. No. VIII. (Quaresm. E. T. S. Lib. IV. pereg. 5, c. 14, Tom. +II. p. 172, col. 2, ed. 1639). + +[516] Mariti, p. 82. + +[517] Acts xii. 2. + +[518] Plate XXXIX. + +[519] Josh. iv. 9, 20. + +[520] M. de Vogüé, Les Églises, &c. p. 304. + +[521] Acts xii. 12. + +[522] Ch. II. p. 29. See also Note VIII. to the same chapter. + +[523] See De Vogüé, Les Églises, &c. pp. 303, 304. + +[524] By an anonymous Greek writer in Scriptt. Hist. Byzant. XXV. c. 12. +Ed. Venet. 1733. + +[525] Note IV. + +[526] Note V. + +[527] Ch. III. p. 60. + +[528] Lib. XVII. c. 3 (Gesta Dei, &c. Tom. II. p. 933). + +[529] Note VI. + +[530] Note VI. + +[531] Ch. IV. page 126. + + + + +CHAPTER VI. + + EXCURSIONS IN THE NEIGHBOURHOOD OF THE CITY ON THE EAST, SOUTH, AND + SOUTH-WEST--THE VALLEY OF KIDRON, CALLED ALSO THE VALLEY OF + JEHOSHAPHAT, WITH ITS MONUMENTS AND REMARKABLE PLACES--THE MOUNT OF + OLIVES--BETHPHAGE--BETHANY--THE VALLEY OF HINNOM--THE MOUNT OF EVIL + COUNSEL--SOUTH-WESTERN PART OF THE VALLEY OF GIHON--MOUNT + SION--CHRISTIAN CEMETERIES--TOMB OF DAVID, AND SUBTERRANEAN + VAULTS--THE COENACULUM--THE HOUSE OF CAIAPHAS--THE GROTTO OF S. + PETER--THE LEPERS. + + +As we go out of the eastern gate, called S. Mary's and also S. Stephen's +Gate, we see on the left-hand a pool, by name _Birket-Hammam +Sitti-Mariam_ (the Pool of the Bath of our Lady Mary). The origin of +this name is that it receives the waters of the ditch outside the +eastern wall, and then by a conduit supplies a bath inside the city, +near the Church of S. Ann. This bath is a favourite with the women of +Jerusalem, who attribute to it miraculous virtues; but unfortunately +they can only profit by them for a few days in the year, as the +neighbouring cisterns and the pool, instead of retaining the water, +allow it to escape; since the reservoir and conduits are in a ruinous +condition, and the proprietor of the bath is too blind to his own +interest to repair them. + +On the right of the gate, as we go out, we see a Saracenic monument, +which is daily falling to ruin[532]. Some of the Arabs believe that it +was built over a sepulchre; others, that it is a monument to mark the +spot where the Khalif Omar pitched his tent after traversing the Valley +of Jehoshaphat. Whichever be the true account, it ought to be preserved. +But the Mohammedan makes no effort to arrest the ravages of time. + +Hence a large portion of the Kidron valley is seen at a glance, +especially that part which is called the Valley of Jehoshaphat[533], a +name derived from the tomb attributed to that king, which is covered +with earth on the east of that of Absalom. Adamnanus, the historian of +Arculf's travels, is the first to mention the Valley of Jehoshaphat, and +his description agrees with that given by Willibald, another author of +the eighth century[534]. The celebrity of this valley is due to a +belief, widely spread among both Christians and Mohammedans, that it +will be the scene of the Last Judgement. This has arisen from the words +of the prophet Joel, "I will also gather all nations, and will bring +them down into the valley of Jehoshaphat, and will plead with them there +for my people and for my heritage Israel, whom they have scattered among +the nations, and parted my land"[535]; and again, "Let the heathen be +wakened, and come up to the valley of Jehoshaphat, for there will I sit +to judge all the heathen round about[536]." In this same valley many of +the ancient Jews, both high and low, have been interred, and the custom +still continues; for they possess a cemetery extending along the eastern +bank of the valley, while the two on the western belong to the +Mohammedans. It appears that the Christians have also used the place for +the same purpose, since, in November 1856, when the Greeks were +cultivating a plot of ground on the western bank of the valley, a short +distance from the tomb of Mary, they found a well-executed slab of +Palestine breccia, on which a cross and the following words were carved: +"The monument which contains Stephen and Juliana." On its removal the +two skeletons were found. As the work went on, fragments of stone, stone +crosses, and human bones were found, unquestionable proofs that it was +the site of an ancient Christian cemetery. It is then certain that this +valley has long been used for the cemetery of the city, as it is at the +present day. In the reign of Josiah mention is made of the "graves of +the children of the people[537]." Urijah, who was slain by Jehoiakim, +was "cast into the graves of the common people[538]." Adrichomius[539] +says that "it received the corpses of the common people and of the +great." I believe that the ancients had a reason in selecting this place +rather than any other for their graves, which was that the winds do not +usually blow strongly from this quarter in Palestine, and therefore the +effluvia from the cemetery would not be borne into the city, but would +be confined to the lower parts of the valley. + +It is then to this, also called the Kidron Valley, from the Arab name +_Wady Kedron_, that I conduct the reader, in order that we may examine +it thoroughly. After descending by the road nearly to the bottom of the +slope, we come to a bare patch of yellow limestone-rock, said to be the +spot were S. Stephen was stoned. The tradition however does not rest +upon a probable foundation, and is more recent than the time of the +Crusades; and as no mention is made in the Bible[540] of either the +gate or the direction of the place where the Proto-martyr suffered, I +must be allowed to doubt its truth. It however is so firmly implanted in +the minds of the pilgrims of the different sects who visit the place, +that their eyes are able to discover the Saint's effigy on the rock +itself; and they forget that even if it had been sculptured there, it +would have long ago disappeared under the hammers of the devout +believers, who have for some centuries made a practice of breaking off +fragments as relics. Several writers have demonstrated the worthlessness +of the tradition, by shewing that from the fifth century to the close of +the Latin kingdom at Jerusalem, the place of the Saint's martyrdom was +believed to be outside the present Damascus Gate, which then bore S. +Stephen's name[541]. It is not known for what reason this name was in +the fourteenth century transferred to the east gate, which, during the +Crusades, had always been called the Gate of Jehoshaphat. + +Near this pretended site of the Saint's martyrdom is the opening of a +cave, which some consider to have been the entrance into the vaults of a +church, erected by the Empress Eudoxia. I endeavoured to clear it out, +but was prevented by the quantity of stones and earth it contained; +however, I was able to ascertain that it had been an ancient cistern, +and did not present any indications of the presence of tombs. I think +that the letters at the opening, now scarcely visible, are the work of +pilgrims. Eudoxia's church was a little distance from the Damascus Gate +(as I will presently explain); and the steepness of the rocks and the +unevenness of the surface here precludes us from believing that this can +have ever been the site of a church, and there are no traces of ancient +walls, nor hewn stones lying about, to shew that any building has been +erected here. + +Following the road eastward from this point, we arrive at the dry bed of +the Kidron torrent, crossed by a small stone bridge, the lower part of +which is evidently very ancient. Above this is some masonry of the time +of the Crusades, and the rest, including the arch, is old Arab work. In +the present day the Kidron is only full of water after a heavy fall of +rain, and quickly becomes dry again as soon as this ceases. Kidron is a +Hebrew word, meaning 'darkness;' derived either from the former depth of +the valley down which it flowed, or from the circumstance that its +ancient bed was narrow and choked with projecting rocks, or from the +cedar-groves, which some believe to have once flourished upon the slopes +of the valley[542]. This torrent is famous in both the Old and New +Testament. David crossed it in his flight from his rebellious son +Absalom[543]; Asa burnt and destroyed an idol here[544]; Hezekiah and +Josiah, in restoring the worship of God, cast down here the uncleanness +from the Temple and the broken idol altars[545]. Our Saviour frequently +crossed it on his way from the Mount of Olives and Bethany; especially +it is mentioned on that night when he went to the garden of +Gethsemane[546]. At the present day the Kidron is a means of discovering +antiquities, in the following way. In the spring of 1855, after a heavy +rain-fall, I noticed that some peasants of Siloam were examining the mud +which had been brought down by the torrent. I approached them, and +learnt that they were searching for old coins. I at once determined to +imitate them, and every year at the time of the heavy rains went to the +Kidron with a couple of men, and constructed small dykes to retain the +mud; and when the water had fallen, I riddled the soil thus deposited, +and always found coins; sometimes of considerable value, such as +shekels, medals of Alexander and Antiochus, and of others[547]. The +reason that these things are found in the Kidron is that the rubbish +from the city, and especially from Mount Moriah, was from the earliest +periods thrown down the western bank of the valley; consequently all the +ground on that side is artificial and not well consolidated; so that the +heavy rains wash down the earth into the torrent, together with the +objects hidden in it. There is no difficulty in the process, and the +supply is by no means exhausted; so that any collector of Jewish coins +may profit by the above description. + +After crossing the bridge just mentioned, we see, immediately on our +left hand, a cubical building, three of whose sides are buried in the +ground, while the façade[548] (on the south) is uncovered. Before this +is a little open platform reached by some steps[549]. It is said to +cover the tomb of the Virgin Mary, but we have no evidence which enables +us to fix the date of its erection. An examination of the tomb itself +would lead us to suppose that the buildings around it were +contemporaneous with S. Helena: for it is a small chamber hewn in the +rock, which I have seen on the inside and outside of the eastern wall, +in the lower parts (close to the ground), and underneath the marble +slabs covering the Greek altar, which has been constructed upon a shelf +along the chamber-wall, originally made to support a corpse, exactly +like that in the Sepulchre of Christ. It is, then, beyond all question, +an ancient Jewish tomb; and at the erection of the church the rock was +hewn away all round, in order to detach it from the main mass (which is +seen close by), and isolate it in the middle of the building; just as +was done at the Holy Sepulchre. We may therefore infer that this work +was contemporaneous with that at the Church of the Resurrection, and +that it was executed by order of S. Helena[550], as is stated by +Nicephorus Callistus, an author of the fourteenth century. I hold that +S. Helena began the work, but did not complete it, because at this time +not only was the traditionary site of the tomb a matter of dispute, but +also the question of the Assumption of the Virgin was as yet undecided +by the learned; a point which was not settled till after A.D. 431, when +it was declared by the third General Council, held at Ephesus, that the +tombs of the Virgin and S. John were in that city. Besides, if S. Helena +had erected a building over the tomb, I cannot account for the silence +of Eusebius, the historian of that Empress and her son Constantine, upon +that point. I am confirmed in my opinion, that S. Helena did not do more +than commence this work, by the fact that neither S. Jerome nor S. +Epiphanius, who visited and described Jerusalem, make any mention of +this as a sanctuary. Had it then existed, they would not have omitted to +name it; especially since, in the fourth century, the belief was widely +spread that the Virgin had not died, but had been borne away by the +Angels into heaven in her bodily form; and therefore these authors would +not have neglected so important a matter as her tomb. Consequently I do +not assign the building to the time of Helena. + +In course of time, when all questions concerning the Assumption were +settled, the Sepulchre of Gethsemane rose in importance; and in the +fifth century a church was standing there, which we find mentioned for +the first time by S. John of Damascus[551], in connexion with the +following incident. The Empress Pulcheria, wife of the Emperor Marcian, +was anxious to obtain the corpse of the Virgin to be the chief treasure +of the church, which she and her husband together had erected in honour +of the Mater Dei, in the district Blachernæ (Constantinople)[552]. +Juvenal, Patriarch of Jerusalem, arrived at the capital of the Empire on +the occasion of the Council of Chalcedon, held A.D. 451, and had an +interview with the Empress, who asked him to search in the church at +Gethsemane, which was erected over the spot where the Virgin was buried; +and if he discovered the sacred relics, to transport them to +Constantinople[553]. The Patriarch, however, answered that the tomb was +empty, and that the place was regarded with veneration, because the body +of the Virgin had been deposited there for a few days. Indeed, at that +time it was commonly believed that she had lain three days in the grave +like her Son[554]. We have therefore to enquire who founded this church +mentioned by Pulcheria. The authors of the eighth and ninth centuries +are silent upon this point, and one only of the tenth, Sayd-Ebn-Batrik +(an Arabian) says, that it was the Emperor Theodosius II. Hence +Quaresmius[555] conjectures that the monument was built between the +years A.D. 429 and 457. This would explain the silence of S. Jerome, who +died A.D. 420. Antoninus of Piacenza[556], A.D. 600, speaks of the Holy +Virgin's house, whence, he says, she was taken up into heaven. A short +time after, A.D. 614, it was plundered by the Persians under Chosroes +II.[557] The Khalif Omar, A.D. 636, found the church built over the +Sepulchre, and twice visited it for prayer. It was still standing at +the end of the seventh century, when it was seen by Arculf, who gives +the following description of it: "The lower part, beneath a wonderful +stone flooring, is a rotunda. The altar is on the eastern side, and to +the right of it there is the hollow Sepulchre of S. Mary in the rock in +which she once rested after her burial.... In the upper and round Church +of S. Mary four altars are shewn." These words clearly prove that the +present church is not the one seen by Arculf: since in that there were +two rotundas, which have now disappeared. This is also proved by the +following fact, that, in the seventh century, when the Khalif +Abd-el-Melik was erecting the great mosque of the _Kaaba_ at Mecca, he +commanded the columns to be cut away from the Church of Gethsemane, but +rescinded the order owing to the prayers of certain Christians of high +rank, who promised some other marbles; so that the church was preserved +for that time[558]. In the eighth century it was seen by Willibald[559], +who mentions, but does not describe it; and says that the tomb did not +contain the corpse of the Virgin Mary, but was dedicated to her burial. +He states distinctly that it was in the valley of Jehoshaphat. Bernard +the Wise[560], A.D. 870, saw the rotunda, and the tomb within it, and +says,--"Besides, in that very village (Gethsemane) is the round Church +of S. Mary, where is her sepulchre; which, though unprotected by a roof, +is never wetted by the rain." The account shews that it was then in a +very ruinous condition. From this time until the arrival of the +Crusaders we have no further mention of this monument; and the first to +notice it again is Sæwulf, A.D. 1103. At that time service was performed +by monks wearing a black habit, of the order of Cluny[561]. "These," +according to M. de Vogüé[562], "gave to the church in the valley of +Jehoshaphat the form which it has retained up to the present day." But, +I ask, did the church of Sæwulf contain the same rotundas as that which +Arculf visited, and Bernard saw in ruins? The want of evidence makes the +question a difficult one, because in such an interval of time they might +have fallen to the ground, or have been altered during the persecutions +of Hakem, A.D. 1010. We may then suppose that it might have been +repaired, or entirely rebuilt, and its plan changed at that time. If the +Khalif had found it standing, he would probably have respected it, on +account of the reverence felt for it by the Mohammedan women; which +protected it in the days of Saladin, and continues to do so at the +present day. Again, Sæwulf relates that, during the siege, A.D. +1099[563], all the churches without the city were completely destroyed. +How then did he find it standing in 1103? Were the monks of Cluny +installed there at once and enriched by Godfrey[564], so that they were +able to rebuild it in four years? Had this been the case, surely Sæwulf +would have mentioned it. "The anonymous author of the _Gesta Francorum +expugnantium Hierusalem_, who wrote in 1106," M. de Vogüé goes on to +say[565], "also states that in his time the church built over the +Virgin's tomb by the early Christians was quite in ruins." Now if we are +to believe this author, we cannot accept the statement of Sæwulf as +exact, that all the churches were destroyed. Consequently, I hold that +the monks of Cluny rebuilt it after, not before this time. + +I think that the plan of the church in the fifth century was not very +different from the present one, because I believe that the great work of +making the stairs was executed when the first building was erected, in +order to reach the tomb which was situated, as we have seen, low down, +being covered, by the lower rotunda, mentioned by Arculf, with the other +above it. In confirmation of this, we find mention made of a platform +before the building in the year 1100, (perhaps the present one, though +it might be somewhat larger,) which was enclosed by a cloister, where +were buried Werner de Gray, cousin of Godfrey, who died at Jerusalem in +the month of May, A.D. 1100, and the Knight Arnulph, Prince of +Oudenarde, who was slain by the people of Ascalon in 1107[566]. +Therefore, I consider this platform to be the only natural entrance into +the subterranean church, as it still is. With regard to the building of +the present walls, and particularly of the vaults, and to the +alterations in the plan with reference to the tomb, I agree with M. de +Vogüé, that the monks of Cluny rebuilt the church early in the twelfth +century, availing themselves (at least in my opinion) of the ancient +foundations. Since that period it has been noticed by many authors; and +from their remarks it is evident that the work of the monks has not been +changed. Indeed Edrisi, A.D. 1154, describes the church under the name +of Gethsemane; stating that it was a mile distant from the Gate of +Jehoshaphat, and was a very large and handsome edifice. Here M. de Vogüé +very justly remarks, that this expression could not have been applied to +the ruins seen by the author of the _Gesta Francorum_. John of +Würtzburg[567] minutely describes the interior of the church as it was +during the twelfth century. The Sepulchre of Mary, he says, was situated +in the middle of a cave, with a 'ciborium' over the sacred remains. He +also tells us very clearly how the monument was isolated, and in what +way this had been effected; and that it was covered with marble, and +with many ornaments in gold and silver. He also mentions some +inscriptions that were in the church, with many other points of detail. +The description of the church given by John Phocas, A.D. 1185, is not +less distinct, and is equally applicable to the present monument[568]. +"The church, which stands about the tomb of the Mater Dei, is beneath +the ground; it has a vaulted stone roof, is prolonged, and rounded at +its extremity. The Sepulchre is placed like a tribune, in the middle. It +is excavated out of the rock in the form of a rectangle, and the +vaulting is with sharp groins. Inside a kind of bench is hewn out of the +eastern wall, of the same rock as the monument; on this the Virgin's +body was laid, being brought hither from Mount Sion by the Apostles." + +In the time of the Latin kingdom a monastery was erected close to the +church for the monks who officiated therein. This is frequently +mentioned by the historians of the time of the Crusades, in the +Cartulary of the Holy Sepulchre, and by Sebastian Pauli, who gives the +names of the different Abbots, with dates. One of them, Julduinus, in +1126, was a witness to a deed of gift from Hugo Lord of Joppa (Jaffa) to +the Hospital of S. John, in which he is called Abbot of S. Mary's in the +Valley of Jehoshaphat[569]. When Saladin took Jerusalem, A.D. 1187, the +Saracens utterly destroyed the convent, and used the stones to repair +the city-walls[570]; but they spared the church, owing to the reverence +with which the Mohammedans (especially the women) regarded the mother of +Isa (Jesus). The church then from the time of the Crusades, up to the +present day, has not been altered; as is proved by the descriptions of +Willibrand, Brocardus[571], Marinus Sanutus, and others, in the +thirteenth, fourteenth, and fifteenth centuries, who all agree on this +point. Sanutus[572] states that it was only lighted by an aperture in +the vaulted roof, on the side of the Mount (of Olives), and by the +staircase; as all the other openings were closed up. Therefore for the +last five centuries it has remained in its present condition. After A.D. +1187, the church was for a long time abandoned; and the Christian +pilgrims, who desired to visit it, were obliged to obtain the keys from +its Mohammedan owners; but, in the year A.D. 1363, it was ceded to the +Friars Minors of the Observance[573] by the Sultan of Egypt, at the +request of Joan, Queen of Naples. At the same time they obtained +permission to rebuild a convent; which is a strong proof that the +convent of the monks of Cluny no longer existed. This design, however, +was not carried into execution for want of funds. Owing to various +difficulties the Franciscans were unable to take possession of their +sanctuary before the 30th of March, 1392. The only effect of this +concession was to give them the right of performing service in the +church, for the Mohammedans were still its owners. This privilege +excited the jealousy of the Eastern Christians, who strove by intrigues, +backed by large bribes to the authorities in Constantinople, to deprive +the Latins of the sanctuary; to whom it rightly belonged, not only by +the treaty of 1362, but also as it had been built by the Crusaders. +Eventually all the Eastern Christian sects obtained the right of using +the place; the Latins, however, retaining the exclusive privilege of +performing service in the tomb itself. This also was abrogated by the +artifices of the Greeks in 1740; but afterwards the Sultan restored it +by a firman to its former owners. Thereupon their enemies, by the aid of +calumnies and bribes to the ministers of the Sublime Porte, not only +succeeded in retaining possession of the tomb, but also in obtaining the +keys of the whole building; which they now hold, enduring with +resignation the presence of the Syrians, Armenians, and Copts, who +occupy small chapels in the interior of the church. The Latin monks +retain the right[574] of performing service during certain days of the +year, especially on the Assumption of the Virgin; but they do not avail +themselves of it, and justly protest, whenever they have a good +opportunity, against the iniquitous usurpation to which they have been +subjected. + +Let us now proceed to examine the exterior and interior of the building; +noticing those parts that are of greater importance, and leaving the +explanation of the rest to the Plates[575] and their descriptions. The +church has unquestionably been buried by the accumulation of the soil +around it; which has partly been deposited by the water running down the +slopes of the hill, and by the Kidron torrent; and partly raised by the +quantity of rubbish cast down here from the city. I have already said +that the church was originally built in a low situation, as is shewn by +the great staircase, the platform in front of it, and the windows and +doors in it; which prove that it was formerly lighted from without. It +was enclosed by an outer wall, whose remains may still be seen +projecting from the surrounding earth. This was no doubt erected chiefly +with a view of protecting the building against streams of rain-water and +land-slips, and preventing its windows from being obstructed. It has +however proved an inadequate barrier. The terrace-roof is apparently in +the usual style of the country, being nearly flat. It is covered with a +strong cement, but this is not sufficient to keep the damp out of the +vaults, because it is so overgrown with vegetation, that it resembles a +field more than what it really is. + +In the interior of the church we see, on the right hand, a door, now +closed up, which, in the days when the Latins had possession of the +place, communicated with the Grotto of the Agony by an outside passage, +which was not, as many assert, subterranean. I am convinced of this, +because I have carefully examined the grotto, and found that it has no +other entrance than the one still in use, which is now reached by a +passage leading from the north-east corner of the platform. This passage +is much later than the church, as it was made by the Franciscans about +the middle of the eighteenth century, when they were wrongfully +compelled to give up the tomb to the Greeks[576]. After descending some +steps we come to two chapels; the one on the right dedicated to the +tombs of S. Joachim and S. Ann, the other on the left in honour of the +tomb of S. Joseph. Most of the monks of all the sects and the ignorant +guides inform the stranger that the saints themselves are buried here. +On this point neither the Bible nor history give us the slightest clue, +either to the time, place, or manner of their deaths, or to the spot +where they are buried. The tradition is worthless, as it only dates from +the fifteenth century, and has never been mentioned by any author of +importance before or since; but only by those who, for the sake of +making a book, and acquainting the world that they have been at +Jerusalem, publish all that they hear without any inquiry into its truth +or falsehood. I maintain that it is impossible these can be the tombs of +the parents of the Virgin, because there is not an atom of rock in any +part of the place where they stand, not even in the ground; and the +tombs themselves are constructed of masonry. Besides, the shape of the +two chapels shews that they were built to contain sarcophagi, in which +probably (as Abbé Mariti and M. de Vogüé assert) the bodies of members +of the families of the Latin kings were deposited. This opinion is +confirmed by the testimony of William of Tyre[577], who says: "The Lady +Milisendis of blessed memory, who will be a member of the angelic host, +lies buried in the Valley of Jehoshaphat on the right hand of the +descent to the tombs of the blessed and undefiled mother of the Lord, +the Virgin Mary, in a stone crypt guarded with iron gates, and near to +an altar; whereon acceptable daily sacrifices are offered to the +Creator, for the repose of her soul, and for the spirits of the faithful +departed." This description is as plain as it can be, and does not say +one word about the parents of the Virgin Mary. In this chapel the +staples and hooks can still be seen by which the iron gratings were +hung, until no doubt they were carried off by the Mohammedans. +Descending still lower almost to the bottom of the steps, we find on the +left hand a small doorway leading into a chamber quite dark, with walls +of masonry, which is now used by the Armenians as a sacristy. It has a +tesselated pavement, and was, I believe, formerly used as a mortuary +chapel. Quitting it we enter the transverse arm of the cross, which lies +east and west. In the eastern arm[578] the tomb of the Virgin stands by +itself, as I have already described it. Near it on the south is a small +niche, especially allotted to the Mohammedans, who visit the place for +prayer, as I have often seen. This is the only Christian church in +Jerusalem in which the Mohammedans abstain from smoking, or from using +it, if needful, as a place for conversation; a mark of respect which +they do not pay to the Sepulchre of Christ. Inside the north wall, near +the tomb, is the grotto, from which water falls down in drops; this is +carefully caught by the Greeks, and sold to visitors with the reputation +of possessing many virtues. I tasted it in 1857, when I was making a +plan of the building, and found it very good[579]. Opposite to the great +staircase is the northern arm of the cross. This has been divided by the +Greeks into two stories by means of a wooden floor; the lower serving +for a sacristy, the upper for the chamber of the lay-brother who takes +care of the place. Here also we find a window, closed with masonry, +because it is blocked up on the outside with the accumulated earth. At +the extremity of the western arm is the walled-up doorway, which I +mentioned[580] in speaking of the subterranean passage, said to exist +between the Church of S. Ann and this place. The description annexed to +the Plan will shew the places where the different religious sects +perform their services, and the other points of detail; therefore I pass +on at once to the Grotto of the Agony[581], which came into the keeping +of the Franciscans A.D. 1392, together with the Tomb of the Virgin, and +is still held exclusively by them. + +This is said to be the scene of the Agony of Christ on the night before +He suffered[582]. It is true that the Evangelists make no mention of a +grotto; but tradition and its situation are in favour of this place. Its +situation, I say, because it is a stone's throw (according to S. Luke) +from the place (also traditional) where the three Apostles awaited him. +The tradition is very ancient, and I firmly believe that the Apostles +themselves informed the first converts both of this spot and of that +where our Lord was betrayed to those who came to take Him prisoner. It +seems impossible that His followers would forget the incidents of that +night. Gethsemane was outside the city on the slopes of the Mount of +Olives, across the Kidron; and its position is clearly defined[583]. We +must also remember that there have never been at Gethsemane the same +materials for the enemy to lay waste and destroy as there were within +the city; so that the spot would not here, as elsewhere, be concealed +under ruins and earth. + +There was a church at the Grotto of the Agony (perhaps built by S. +Helena) which is mentioned by S. Jerome[584], as follows: "Gethsemane is +the place where the Saviour prayed before His Passion; it is on the +spurs of Mount Olivet; a church is now built over it." Not a vestige of +this church now remains. In the seventh century Arculf[585] saw the +Grotto, and thus describes it: "In the side of Mount Olivet is a certain +cave, not far from the Church of S. Mary.... In it are four stone +tables, one of which near the entrance of the cave in the interior is +the Lord Jesu's. To which little table His seat is fixed, where He was +sometimes wont to recline, together with the Apostles, who sat together +at other tables." Epiphanius Hagiopolita, towards the middle of the +eleventh century, states that "near the Tomb of the Virgin, is the holy +grotto to which Christ retired with His disciples[586]." Now though +these two authors do not mention that our Lord withdrew to this place to +pray, still that does not contradict the fact, and we may naturally +suppose that the Saviour selected a spot which was already well known, +and where perhaps he had been wont to teach. Therefore I identify their +grotto with that of S. Jerome, which I consider to be the Grotto of the +Agony. Sæwulf tells us that it was known by this name before the arrival +of the Crusaders; and during the Latin kingdom there was a church there +dedicated to S. Saviour, as we find stated in the Citez de +Jherusalem[587]: "In front of this church at the foot of the Mount of +Olives is a church in a rock, which men call Gethsemane--there was Jesus +Christ taken. On another part of the way, as one goes up towards the +Mount of Olives as far as a stone's throw, is the church called S. +Saviour. There did Jesus Christ pass the night in prayer before He was +taken, and there did He let fall the blood-drops from His body as though +it had been sweat." All these testimonies, then, go to prove that this +is really the Grotto of the Agony. The Plan and Section will make clear +its interior, which is excavated from a limestone rock. The Abbé Mariti, +who visited it April 30, 1767, endeavoured to discover the inscription +mentioned by Quaresmius[588], which Father Nau[589] asserts that he read +above the larger altar on the north; but as he could only find some +illegible traces of letters, he extracts the inscription from the works +of Quaresmius; it ran as follows: + + HIC REX (SAN)CTUS SUDAVIT SANGUINEM... + SEPE MORABATUR DU C... + MI PATER SI VIS TRANSFER + CALICEM ISTU A ME. + +Quaresmius also states that the Crusaders adorned the vaulted roof with +paintings, traces of which he saw. These were also seen by Mariti, but +were then nearly obliterated by the action of time and damp. They have +now been destroyed by the repairs effected by the Franciscans. + +Let us now visit the Garden of Gethsemane[590], which is exactly a +stone's throw distant from the Grotto towards the south-east. The +entrance-gate is at the south end of the east wall. Gethsemane was a +little village, with a garden close to it, to which Jesus was wont to +retire[591]. The name is interpreted to mean 'rich earth,' from _Get_ +(earth) and _sman_ (rich): by others it is rendered 'olive-mill.' Either +of these explanations is appropriate; for the land is very good, and +especially suited to olive-trees, which are planted all about the +neighbourhood. I cannot say they are cultivated, because the Arabs take +no trouble with them after the first planting. The garden belongs to the +Franciscans, and a few years ago was enclosed with a wall, in order to +preserve its eight old olive-trees from the injuries of ignorant +vandalism or mistaken piety. These are highly valued, because their +stumps, or at any rate their roots, are believed to have been there at +the time of our Saviour's Passion. I do not think this can be said of +their trunks, because I think that they could not have escaped at the +time when all the wood for a considerable distance round Jerusalem was +cut down by the Roman army during the siege, A.D. 70[592]. They are even +respected by the Mohammedans, as is shewn by their exemption from the +tax, which every fruit-tree pays to the Government[593]: their owners +being charged only eight bushels for all the trees. The monks to whom +they belong satisfy ordinary pilgrims with flowers grown in the garden, +with a few leaves or little slips of the olive, but give to their +benefactors and to persons of distinction rosaries made with the fruits, +and oil extracted from them. + +Outside the south-east corner of the garden-wall a rock is pointed out +as the place where the Apostles, Peter, James, and John, fell +asleep[594], and where Judas betrayed his Master. The tradition attached +to this spot is very ancient; it is mentioned by the Pilgrim of +Bordeaux[595], A.D. 333. Sæwulf also mentions it, A.D. 1103, but without +alluding to any buildings in connexion with it. The Crusaders, however, +certainly erected some memorial there, which is noticed by +Brocardus[596], A.D. 1230, under the name of the Chapel of Gethsemane, +"placed on a rock on the side of the Mount of Olives, under which the +Apostles were overcome by sleep." At a later period Phocas calls it 'the +sleep of the Apostles.' Some slight ruins are now seen there, consisting +of dressed stones, shafts of columns, and jambs of a door; unmistakeable +indications of a chapel. The original one indeed may have been destroyed +in 1187, but it must have been rebuilt, because an old Bethlehemite +(aged 86) assured me in 1856 that he remembered to have seen there the +remains of a small building, inside of which was a stone stained with +blood. This I have no doubt was a piece of yellow Palestine breccia with +red veins, which abounds in the country. I do not, however, pretend to +fix the exact spots in this locality at which the different +circumstances of the Agony happened, but simply follow the tradition +which in this instance is of great weight. + +We will now proceed southward along the east bank of the Kidron, down +the so-called Valley of Jehoshaphat. No other spot is better fitted than +this to excite high and solemn thoughts in the hearts of even the most +indifferent. It is in truth the valley of meditation, of tears, and of +death. No living creature disturbs the visitor who comes to muse in its +mournful solitude. A city buried under its own ruins, a torrent-bed +without water, a few trees with bare branches or but a scanty foliage, +naked rocks, barren mountains, mounds of rubbish formed by fallen +buildings, graves all around, broken tombs, monuments of martyrs or of +prophets, and lastly, the place of the Agony of the Son of God, make up +a scene that overpowers the mind with emotion and compels it to solemn +reflexion. + +The eye, at its first glance towards the slope of the mountain, is +arrested by a large space of ground full of graves, each of which is +covered by a single stone. Here is the Jewish cemetery. To fill a little +trench in this spot numbers of Jews leave their country, and, regardless +alike of the toils and costs of the journey, and of the hardships they +have to undergo, flock eagerly to Jerusalem to end their days within its +walls, and sleep their last sleep in the land of their fathers. Each +stone bears an inscription; and among them are some of considerable +antiquity, dating from the year 1296. This field of the dead was +enlarged in 1858 by the Jews, with the assistance of their European +brethren: it therefore stretches away for some distance eastward, rising +up the southern slopes of Olivet. Each year they do some work in order +to prepare the ground for burials; and by this means, in 1859 and 1860, +they found bases, shafts, and capitals of columns, and a considerable +number of large dressed stones, on the eastern summit of the mountain. +These are, undoubtedly, the remains of some Christian memorials, which +were destroyed by the Mohammedans in their successful attacks. When Abbé +Mariti visited the Holy City in 1767, the Jews paid a sequin per diem to +the Governor as rent for the ground, and in addition each grave was +purchased separately. The tax to the Pasha is now no longer exacted, but +a payment is made to the Sheikh of the village of Siloam, who nominally +takes care of the ground: the graves, however, are still bought, but the +price is paid to the Jewish administration, who ask more or less +according to the rank of the deceased and to the position chosen. + +On the slope above the Kidron, to the west of the cemetery, are four +ancient monuments, called the tombs of Jehoshaphat, Absalom, S. James +(also called the Retreat of the Apostles), and Zacharias. We will visit +these one by one. + +First is the tomb of Jehoshaphat, standing at the north-east corner of +the vestibule excavated in the rock, which surrounds the tomb of +Absalom[597]. The Bible[598] tells us that King Jehoshaphat was buried +with his fathers in the city of David, consequently his name has been +wrongly given to this tomb. It is indeed possible that he may have +caused it to be made, but there is no evidence to prove this. In 1858 +only a very small portion of its frontispiece was visible, owing to the +accumulation of earth brought down by the rains, and to the heaps of +stones, placed there by the Jews to prevent any one from entering it; +because they sometimes bury therein the corpses of those who have paid a +high price for a place of such distinction, and left enough property to +satisfy the greed of the Sheikh of Siloam, who otherwise would not allow +them to fulfil the wishes of the deceased. Accordingly I gained over the +Sheikh, and during the night, with the aid of some of his peasants, not +only laid bare the whole frontispiece, but also opened a small passage +to the interior, into which I made my way. However, I was soon driven +out again by the insupportable stench from the corpses. Nevertheless, I +was determined not to be conquered; I bought permission to enlarge the +hole, and some hours later entered again; and though two corpses, in the +last stage of decomposition, lay almost across the doorway, I made a +sketch of its plan, which will be found sufficiently exact, measurements +excepted. These I had not time to take; the reeking mud of bones, rotted +by the infiltrated water, emitted an overpowering odour; besides the day +was at hand, and before it came the passage must be closed again. The +frontispiece, however, was left exposed. The tomb is entirely excavated +in the rock, and its frontispiece, 10-1/2 feet long, is in the same +style as that at the Sepulchre of the Judges[599]. I will reserve my +opinion of its ornamentation till I have described the three other +monuments. Dr Isambert[600], of Paris, states that a Roman Catholic +missionary, who entered it in 1842, found there a very ancient copy of +the Pentateuch. Surely he forgets that the Jews have been in the habit +of burying in this place for some centuries, so that his 'very ancient +Pentateuch' would not have escaped them! Besides, this book was probably +only a Synagogue roll, imperfect copies of which are often buried near +the corpses of the Rabbins[601]. Mr Finn, then Her Britannic Majesty's +Consul at Jerusalem, informed me that he had learnt from some Jewish +traditions that the true position of the tomb of Jehoshaphat was 20 feet +to the west, and nearly in front of that of Absalom. Being desirous to +verify this statement, I took some labourers, and explored all that +part; but found everywhere nothing but solid rock, without the slightest +trace of any work. + +Let us now proceed to examine the Tomb of Absalom, the most elegant and +magnificent of those in the neighbourhood of the city. It is a cubical +monolith, each side being about 20-1/2 feet. The tapering columns of the +lower part support a Doric entablature, consisting of an architrave, a +fillet, and a frieze ornamented with triglyphs (with guttæ) and pateræ +on the metopes, above is an Egyptian cornice. All this lower part is +hewn out of the solid rock; the rest is masonry[602]. The total height +of the monument is 52-1/4 feet, and that of the monolith about 20 feet. +These measurements are only approximate, owing to the quantity of small +stones, which have raised the general level of the ground, and are +difficult to clear away. On the east side is the opening through which +the corpses were introduced[603]. It is very small, and was in all +probability formerly closed by a stone in the manner usual with the +Jews; but I have not been able to determine this point, because the +monument is almost buried on that side, and I was reluctant to encounter +the expense of removing the earth, and the vexations to be undergone in +obtaining the permission. There is a breach in each face of the cube. I +entered by that on the north, and found myself in a small chamber, 8 +feet square, containing many stones that have been thrown in from +without. In the northern wall is a sepulchral niche, and another in the +western. In the southern is the opening to a staircase, which would no +doubt have led me, had I been able to enter it, to the Tomb of +Jehoshaphat. The heaps of small stones, round about the outside of the +monument, increase daily, because the Jews, Christians, and Mohammedans, +who pass by, hurl a stone at it to mark their abhorrence of David's +rebel son. This custom has prevailed for a long time; for Surius[604] +relates that it was in force in his days, and that every one on throwing +his stone cried out, "At the villain, at the barbarian, at the murderer, +who made war against his father!" I believe that the origin of this was, +as we are told in the Bible[605] and Josephus[606], that the servants of +Joab took the body of Absalom down from the tree, and casting it into a +deep dark crevice, covered it up with so great a heap of stones, that +they formed a kind of sepulchral mound. This took place in the wood of +Ephraim, on the other side of Jordan[607]; it is therefore evident that +Absalom was not buried in the present monument. The monolithic portion +may indeed date from his time, but the upper story is much later; for we +read[608], "Now Absalom in his life-time had taken and reared up for +himself a pillar, which is in the King's dale: for he said, I have no +son to keep my name in remembrance: and he called the pillar after his +own name: and it is called unto this day Absalom's place." There can be +no doubt that this part of the Kidron valley was called the 'King's +dale,' because we find the 'King's garden[609]' here, which establishes +this point. With regard to the monument, Josephus[610] fixes its site by +saying that "Absalom had erected for himself a white marble pillar in +the King's dale, two stadia distant from Jerusalem, which he named +Absalom's Hand, saying, that if his children were killed, his name would +remain by that pillar." The white marble is the breccia of Palestine, +which can be worked and polished like marble. The monolith supporting +the pillar is left, but the rest is gone, perhaps having been destroyed +by Joab, when he returned to Jerusalem with his victorious army. I +therefore believe this to be the pillar of Absalom mentioned in the +Bible, especially as it is two stadia distant from the city. + +To the west, and almost opposite to the monument just described, is a +little bridge over the Kidron. An uncertain tradition points out this as +the place where Jesus crossed the stream on His way to the house of +Caiaphas, and also shews on a rock close by the impression made by His +knees as He fell. There is no mention of this in the Bible; it is named +by Quaresmius[611]. This road, from the garden to the so-called house +of Caiaphas (on Sion), is commonly called the 'road of the Capture.' The +topography of the ancient city is unfavourable to the story. A few yards +to the south of the Tomb of Absalom is the Retreat of the Apostles, or, +according to some, the Tomb of S. James[612]. The Arabs call it _Diwan +Faroon_ (Divan of Pharaoh); but they cannot tell for what reason. The +outer porch is supported by two columns and two pilasters, sculptured +from the rock in which the whole monument is excavated. The porch is +about 31 feet wide and 9 deep. In the northern wall is a door, leading +by a staircase up into the rock above the sepulchral chamber. In the +eastern wall is another door leading into the principal room, a square +of 13 feet, into which three smaller chambers open, containing each a +niche for a corpse. In the south wall of the vestibule is a square door, +leading into a corridor connected with the monument on the south. +Tradition relates that S. James and the ten other disciples concealed +themselves here on the night when our Saviour was taken prisoner in the +garden of Gethsemane, and that they remained here until the day of the +Resurrection, when He appeared to S. James[613]. Hegesippus[614] says +that S. James was buried near the Temple, and that a monument was raised +to his memory, which remained until Hadrian rebuilt the city. The Roman +martyrology tells the same story. M. Mislin observes, that this site is +not opposed to the tradition, because it may be said to be near the +Temple; since, at the time of the Saint's death, they did not bury +within the walls of the city. On this point I leave the reader to form +his own opinion. I myself do not vouch for the tradition; although the +Saint may possibly have been interred here, even if the tomb was not +originally constructed for him. + +The Tomb of Zacharias is a monolith, hewn out of the mountain; so +excavated that there is a passage five feet wide round all the sides, +except of course the western. Each of its faces is 17-1/2 feet long, +decorated with two columns in the middle, and two half-columns each +attached to pilasters at the corners, all forming part of the same +block[615]. Around it is a number of Jewish graves, which make it +impossible to determine its true elevation; but the height of the +portion visible above them is 19 feet. The decoration is not completed +in every part. On the eastern side the columns are only rough-hewn, and +not finished off as on the three other sides. Inside the monolith is a +sepulchral chamber connected with the corridor from the Tomb of S. +James. This Zacharias is thought to be the son of Jehoiada, who was +slain by king Joash between the temple and the altar[616]; with whose +death the Jews are reproached by Christ[617]. So the Jews at the present +time believe, consequently they hold the place in great veneration, and +pay very highly to be interred after death anywhere near it; which is +the cause of the accumulation of stones round it. The Pilgrim of +Bordeaux calls it the Tomb of Isaiah, and Benjamin of Tudela the Tomb of +Hosea. + +To the south of this is another tomb almost buried, on which however two +columns can be distinguished. By partially uncovering it I ascertained +that it was an ancient monument. It might be supposed to be that of +Hosea, but I will not undertake to prove it. I am very much disposed to +think that the piece of ground containing these four monuments may be +the garden of Uzza, in which Manasseh and Amon were buried[618]; or, at +any rate, that they were tombs intended to receive the remains of +members of the royal family, or of men of distinction in the country. I +refer my readers to the excellent description of the four monuments in +M. de Saulcy's work[619]. I think that when they were first constructed +they were without decorations, and that they were elaborated at a much +later period; because on them we find the Greek and Egyptian styles of +architecture; consequently I attribute this part to the time of Herod. +Dr Robinson[620], struck with the similarity between these and the rock +sepulchres of Petra, in the mixture of Grecian and Egyptian +architecture, considered the decorations to be perhaps contemporaneous +with the Herods, who were of Idumæan origin, or possibly to belong even +to the era of Hadrian. + +Following the road southward along the Kidron we arrive at the Fountain +of the Virgin, on the west bank of the torrent. This is highly esteemed +by both Christians and Mohammedans, who believe (according to an ancient +tradition) that the Virgin Mary used to frequent it to draw water and +wash the clothes of her Divine Son. The latter have an oratory, where, +after ablutions in the fountain, they offer up their prayers to the +mother of Isa (Jesus). A small mosque stood here in the sixteenth and +seventeenth century, but even its ruins have now disappeared. The Arabs +call the place _Aïn Sitti Mariam_ (Fountain of our Lady Mary), and also +_Aïn um-el-Deraj_ (Fountain of our Lady near the steps). It is at the +extremity of an excavation in the rock, reached by 28 steps, which, as I +have already said[621], have been constructed owing to the rise of the +ground. These are divided into two flights by a chamber with a pointed +vaulting (Crusaders' work), which is 9-1/2 feet wide and 10-1/4 high. +The lower grotto is 26 feet deep, the water flows into a basin 16 feet +long, 6 wide, and 7 deep; and from this to the upper pool of Siloam +through a subterranean conduit. I shall consider this conduit and the +intermittent flow of the fountain in the chapter on the waters. Popular +superstition attributes the interruption of the stream to a dragon, that +lives concealed at the source, and arrests its course in quenching his +thirst. It is also commonly believed that the water is supplied by +reservoirs under the _Haram_, which is not far from the truth, as we +shall see. On our way from the fountain to the Pool of Siloam we follow +the bed of the torrent for a little way, and then take the road skirting +the western bank of the valley. This leads us to a small pond adjoining +the western corner of the pool situated almost at the south extremity of +Ophel, at the end of the Tyropoeon Valley. This pool is frequently +mentioned in the Scriptures. Isaiah speaks of its 'waters that go +softly[622];' Nehemiah[623], of the wall of the Pool of Siloam; S. +John[624], of the man born blind, who was sent to 'wash in the Pool of +Siloam.' Josephus frequently names it, especially in one of his +addresses to the besieged Jews, when he tells them, as a sign of God's +anger, that the Fountain of Siloam, which before the siege had ceased to +supply them with water, now gave forth plenty to the Romans. He tells +them also that the same thing took place during the siege by +Nebuchadnezzar[625]. On the last day of the Feast of Tabernacles the +people went with great solemnity to draw the water of Siloam, and +brought it to the altar, where it was mingled with the wine of the +sacrifices; in remembrance of the water which God had given them in the +desert by the rod of Moses, and to entreat Him to send down rain on the +new-sown seed. At this festival our Lord was present when he cried, "If +any man thirst, let him come unto Me and drink[626]." The Talmud[627] +asserts, "whoever has not seen the joy of that day has never seen joy." +In the evening those who were the wisest and most highly cultivated of +the nation assembled together in the vestibule of the Temple, and sang +to the music of instruments before all the people; they danced, clapped +their hands, and jumped about in a disorderly manner, and the applause +was tremendous. This was done in remembrance of the dance of David[628]. +From this we see in what esteem the waters of Siloam were always held; +and it did not diminish after the prevalence of Christianity. The +Bordeaux Pilgrim, A.D. 333, writes thus, "At the bottom of the valley on +the left-hand, near the wall, is a pool, which is called Siloa. It has a +portico of four bays, and there is another large pool without." S. +Jerome[629] mentions the intermittent flow of the water: "But we, above +all, who live in this province, cannot doubt that the Fountain of Siloam +is by the lower slopes of Mount Sion, which flows not steadily, but +bubbles forth at uncertain intervals, and comes with a loud roar through +the hollow parts of the earth to the caves of very hard rock." This +description appears at first sight to contradict the words of the +Prophet Isaiah, who speaks of 'the waters of Siloah that go softly.' The +two, however, may be easily reconciled; for the waters ordinarily flow +quietly into the pool; but when the peasants dam up the outlet in order +to retain the stream for irrigating their gardens, the current rolls +along noisily. I made the experiment in 1861, when an Arab Effendi, +Jusef Bachatip, requested me to examine whether there was a sufficient +supply of water to work a corn-mill. + +Nicephorus Callistus[630] states that "S. Helena constructed wonderful +works at the pool which is called Siloe." I doubt this; the stones still +remaining there, and the inner walls, indicate a higher antiquity than +the time of her visit to the city; moreover, I think that if she had +built anything, the Bordeaux Pilgrim would have mentioned it; and we +know that the place was highly regarded by the Jews. It is also +remarkable that he says nothing of a church, while, in A.D. 600, +Antoninus of Piacenza[631] relates, "There is a basilica there, within +which are latticed enclosures, in one of which men bathe in order to +receive a blessing, in the other women; and in front of the door is a +great pool, made by the hand of man, in which the people bathe at +certain hours." S. Boniface[632] adds, that the basilica was dedicated +to S. Saviour the Illuminator. In the beginning of the eleventh century +Albert of Aix[633] writes, "At that place, where there is a square +walled building like a cloister, in the middle of which a little stream +is received." He, however, does not mention a church, nor does John +Phocas, who confines himself to saying, that he saw the columns and the +vaulted roofs which adorned and surrounded the source, without +mentioning the basilica; and afterwards adds, "It would be easy to +repair the ruins of the sacred fountain, but no one touches or puts his +hand to them, and so they are going day by day to ruin, like the +buildings at the other Holy Places[634]." Certain eminent authors of the +present day assert that in the fourth or fifth century the pool was +covered by a church. This I cannot admit, because I find no mention of +it in S. Jerome and Phocas. Antoninus of Piacenza must have mistaken the +porches for a basilica; and we know from his other descriptions that he +is by no means to be trusted; while those who have followed him have +been misled by his words, and by the shafts of columns and other ruins +in the neighbourhood. + +During the siege of Jerusalem, A.D. 1099, Raymond d'Agiles[635] gives +the following account of what happened at the fountain of Siloam: +"Whenever the fountain began to flow, the Christians flung themselves +into it one on the other, and very often perished along with their +cattle. It was thus choked with the bodies of men and animals who had +fallen into it." This does not prove the goodness of the waters[636]; +for we know from Tudebode[637], that water was so scarce during the +siege, that the pilgrims went a distance of six miles to fetch some +though bad and offensive, in little leathern vessels which they had made +of the hides of oxen and other animals (after the custom of the +country). This water, corrupted though it was, was sold at such a high +price, that a crown would not buy enough to quench a single man's +thirst. If, then, men were in such want as to drink this water, they +would be very glad to get that of Siloam. Saladin compared this stream +to the rivers of Paradise; but as it is the only naturally flowing +stream to be seen in Jerusalem, and as it irrigates the luxuriant +gardens of Siloam, and also in times of drought is valuable to the city +for many purposes, we can understand the feeling that produced this +Oriental exaggeration. In his time a small mosque was built near the +pool. + +Let me now describe its present appearance. It is an oblong pool, +exhibiting everywhere signs of neglect. Earth and stones slip down into +it from the higher ground all round, and partly fill it. The peasants of +Siloam, whose gardens are irrigated by its waters, are sometimes obliged +to clear it out, but the work is done carelessly. Its dimensions are 52 +feet in length, 19-1/2 in breadth, and 20-1/4 in depth. The revêtement +is a modern restoration, and in it are incorporated shafts of grey +granite columns, the fragments of the above-named portico. At the +north-east corner of the reservoir is a small arch with a flight of +steps, which are in a ruinous state. This leads down into a little +basin, into which the conduit (3 feet wide and about 12 high) from the +Fountain of the Virgin empties itself. This explains why the stream in +the Pool of Siloam is intermittent, like that at the Fountain, and also +the etymology of the word, which signifies 'sent[638].' There is an +opening at the north-east corner, by which the water flows to the +gardens of Siloam through a conduit excavated in the rock, opposite to +the south end of Ophel. An examination of the interior of the pool +disclosed to me the ancient passage by which the water ran down into the +lower pool. The latter I have already stated to be, in my opinion, the +Pool of Solomon, mentioned by Josephus[639] in his description of the +first wall of the city. Here, according to the Pilgrim of Bordeaux and +Antoninus of Piacenza, the Christians resorted to bathe at certain +times. It is now a cultivated garden; for the earth brought down by the +rains from the higher ground has completely filled it up. The Arabs now +call it _Birket el-Hamra_. Coins are frequently found by the peasants +among the earth in the interior; which have been brought down and +deposited there by the conduits flowing from the city. + +At the south-east corner of Solomon's Pool are some ruins, consisting of +shafts and broken capitals of columns, walls and dressed stones of +Jewish workmanship. In the middle stands a very old forked +mulberry-tree, said to mark the spot where the prophet Isaiah was sawn +asunder. According to a tradition received by both the Jews and the +Christians, Isaiah was put to death in the early part of Manasseh's +reign, and his body was buried under an oak near to the Well +Rogel[640]. I do not admit the identity of Siloam and Rogel, which Abbé +Mariti[641] tries to establish; but consider it improbable that the +mulberry should mark the place of the martyrdom, and the oak indicate +the tomb. The position of the latter I do not attempt to fix, as there +are many burial-places near Rogel, but none with the proper tree. The +Mohammedans hold the site of the martyrdom in great veneration, and go +there to pray. It also serves as a place of assembly for the villagers +of Siloam, when they want to discuss any matter of interest. + +From this point we see at one glance the gardens of Siloam, which I have +already identified[642] with the King's gardens of former times[643]. +The inhabitants are indebted to the little stream flowing from the upper +pool for the rich crops of vegetables produced by the plots of land, +once the favourite haunts of Solomon's wives. Then they must have been +more abundantly irrigated than they now are; and very probably the King +constructed the lower pool for this purpose. His humble successors still +reap large profits from the ground, though with a diminished supply of +water; all of which they bestow on the plants, reserving none for their +own persons. + +Following the course of the valley, we leave the mouth of the Valley of +Hinnom, on the right, and before long arrive at the Well of Joab or Job, +called by the Arabs _Bir Eyub_, and still known by the name of the Well +of Nehemiah, or of the Sacred Fire[644]. No one knows what connexion +this well has with Joab or Job; but a tradition relates that when +Nebuchadnezzar took Jerusalem, the Priests concealed the sacred fire +here in order to save it from profanation; and that, on their return +from the Captivity, it miraculously blazed forth, at the prayer of +Nehemiah, from the mud which had been found in the hiding-place[645]. +When the truth of this story was proved to the satisfaction of the King +of Persia, he enclosed the place, and made it holy. Nehemiah "called +this thing Naphthar, which is as much as to say, a cleansing, but many +men call it Nephi[646]." This I believe to be the ancient _En-Rogel_, +which was on the frontier of Judah and Benjamin[647]. Here David's +spies, Jonathan and Ahimaaz, stayed to watch the progress of Absalom's +rebellion[648]; and here again the partisans of Adonijah assembled, +under the pretext of a banquet[649]. Josephus, in his account of this +conspiracy, tells us that the fountain was in the King's garden. At a +distance _Bir Eyub_ appears like a ruined house; but, on approaching it, +we find a quadrangular basin and some ruins, with a frail structure over +the well, and a Mohammedan oratory. In summer it contains little water, +but during the winter-rains it is not only full, but even overflows into +the Kidron. If this do not happen, it is considered by the inhabitants +a bad omen for the coming season; but when it does, a fertile year is +expected, and the whole country rejoices. The water escapes from the +well by a conduit in its east wall, which disappears in the ground after +a distance of 60 feet. The description of its interior, of the supposed +phenomenon of intermittence, and of my investigation on this point, I +leave to the Chapter on the Waters; contenting myself at present with +stating, that I have examined the well to the bottom without finding any +trace of a spring. On the first appearance of the desired prognostic of +prosperity, the peasants of Siloam, who, as nearest to the spot, +consider themselves its owners, fill earthen vessels from the +overflowing stream, and bear them to the conventual bodies and persons +of distinction in the city, receiving in return the omnipotent +_Bakshish_. Then the townspeople flock together there; tents are +pitched, and little refreshment booths improvised; parties of pleasure +are made up; pipes and coffee circulate briskly, while Arab music and +dances enliven the festive scene. Infirm men and women are carried +thither, and dip the soles of their feet in the water; mothers bathe +their babes in it, to restore them to health; horsemen exhibit their own +skill in riding and the activity of their fine steeds, in the swollen +waters of the Kidron: and when the rains are abundant, the merriment is +kept up for 15 days. This is the only occasion on which the melancholy +inhabitants of Jerusalem give way to rejoicing; and even that is in the +midst of tombs and tokens of sorrow, in the supposed Valley of +Jehoshaphat, because they see the waters of the Kidron flowing, which +then, and then only, is in reality a torrent. + +Here ends the Valley of Jehoshaphat, or, as it may be called, from the +Fountain of the Virgin to this well, the Valley of Siloam. Let us then +follow the path on the north of _Bir Eyub_, and ascend the Mount of +Offence[650]. This is only the southernmost part of the Mount of Olives, +separated from the main mass by the road from Jerusalem to Bethany. Its +summit is supposed to have been the scene of the idolatrous rites of the +concubines of Solomon, and of the King himself, and some of his +successors. Here are a few fragments of ruins, possibly the remains of +the heathen temples; but beyond these there is nothing worthy of notice, +except the fine view. + +On the western slope of this hill, near the Kidron, is the wretched +village inhabited by the Mohammedan peasants of Siloam, called _Kefr +Silwan_, probably from the waters of that name in its vicinity. It is a +strange combination of cottages, built on a vertical rock, and of great +sepulchral caves, now used as dwelling-places or granaries. These +caverns formerly afforded shelter to monks and hermits. John of +Würtzburg[651] writes thus: "The same valley has more caverns on all +sides, in which holy men lead a solitary life." It has now a population +of about 300, none of whom can strictly be termed poor, as they are +employed in carrying into the city the water of _Bir Eyub_ for domestic +use, and that of the Fountain of the Virgin and of the Pool of Siloam +for buildings. Some cultivate their gardens and plots of land on the +eastern slopes of Sion, and many are hired as escorts for pilgrims to +the plains of Jericho, when they are not otherwise engaged as thieves or +robbers; professions in which the village has attained much celebrity. +They also profit by the generosity or timidity of the Jews, extorting +from them _bakshish_, when they come to bury a corpse, or visit the +grave of a relation. At the north end of the village is a monolithic +monument, whose architecture resembles the Egyptian[652]. It is a square +in plan, and is entirely detached from the rock. Within are two +chambers. M. de Saulcy considers it to be an Egyptian chapel, +constructed by Solomon to receive the remains of his wife, Pharaoh's +daughter. To this opinion I incline, as I cannot find any more +satisfactory explanation of it. S. Luke mentions a tower in Siloam[653]; +but whether this was near the pool or the village, we do not know; +probably the latter, as it then would have served as a watch-tower and +keep, or even as an ornament, seeing there were some other buildings on +the Mount of Offence. + +Leaving the village we will ascend the Mount of Olives, which we have +already described[654]. In order to examine its chief points of interest +more easily, we will return to the Garden of Gethsemane, whence two +roads mount the western slope. The northern presents nothing worthy of +remark, except that close to its outset is a rock, where the Virgin is +said to have appeared from heaven to S. Thomas, who was sitting there +lamenting that he had not been present at her assumption, and to have +presented him with her girdle. We will therefore select the southern +path, though it is more rugged and in worse repair than the other. As we +ascend, we pass an Arab house in the form of a tower; but no traditions +are attached to it. Beyond it, about half way up the mountain, is a mass +of buildings wholly Arab, which are pointed out as marking the spot +where Jesus wept over Jerusalem. I do not believe that the event +occurred anywhere in this neighbourhood, because the Evangelist[655] +tells us that our Lord was coming from Bethphage and Bethany; and +therefore, in all probability, He had ascended the road leading from +these places up the eastern slope of the mountain. Then, when first the +city rose before them, I believe that the disciples and the multitude +began to rejoice and praise God. It is said also that this happened when +He was 'at the descent of the Mount of Olives[656],' and the place now +shewn is a considerable distance below the summit. Some rely upon the +words, 'when He was come near He beheld the city, and wept over it,' to +authenticate this locality; but though these words may possibly shew +that the place of the weeping was in advance of the first-named spot, +still I cannot admit that this would have happened on the southern road +(which then, in all probability, did not exist, as it is rather a +goat-track than a foot-path), or that our Saviour would have departed +from the ordinary road. Surius relates that a church stood on this +place, under the name 'Dominus flevit,' which was built by the early +Christians, and destroyed by the Turks. I do not deny that a church may +have been there, but that does not prove the authenticity of the spot. +Godfrey of Bouillon is said to have pitched his tent there. Certainly, +if this be true, he did not select so convenient a situation for +examining the city as the summit to which I now conduct my reader. + +The mountain has three summits in a line lying north and south. The +northernmost, which joins on to Mount Scopus, is known by the name of +Viri Galilæi; on it we find a large cistern and some ruins, apparently +the remains of a watchtower. The guides call them the ruins of a +convent, and not improbably one belonging to the Syrians stood here at +the time of the Crusades, as is shewn by the following passages: "Near +the Mount of Olives, on the left, is a monastery of the Syrians[657]," +and "there is a place suited for a camp, and buildings seem to have been +there. On the summit there is a cistern, and the whole place is +delightsome[658]." The name of Viri Galilæi is given by the inhabitants +of the country, who believe that the two men clothed in white stood +there and addressed the Apostles, "Ye men of Galilee, why stand ye +gazing up into heaven[659]?" The legend is obviously inadmissible, as +the vision evidently occurred at the place of the Ascension[660]. The +more probable reason, according to Quaresmius[661], is, that a house +stood there bearing that name, which was so called because it was +frequented by the Galilæans when they visited the city on the occasion +of any festival. + +The second and highest summit is the one traditionally pointed out as +the place of the Ascension[662]; in accordance with the words of the +Acts of the Apostles[663], "Then returned they unto Jerusalem from the +mount called Olivet, which is from Jerusalem a sabbath day's journey." +Some consider the account in S. Luke's Gospel[664] opposed to this +belief, where it is said, "He led them out as far as Bethany." But as +the Mount of Olives is in the district of Bethany, the Evangelist may +very well have put the whole for the part; so that there is no reason +why we should not accept the site at present known as the scene of the +Ascension. + +The third summit is the Mount of Offence, of which we have already +spoken. The name of Olivet is derived from the olive-trees, which are +still cultivated upon its slopes, though now in very small numbers. +Mariti[665] says, "it is still known by the name of the Celebrated and +Holy Mountain[666]." Quaresmius and Ludolph[667] remark that in some +ancient versions of the Acts of the Apostles, we find in ch. i. ver. 12, +the 'Mount of the Three Lights' instead of the 'Mount of Olives.' Both +of them explain the origin of this name to be that during the night +these three summits were illuminated on the west by the light of the +fire on the altar of the Lord, which was kept always burning, and in the +morning on the east by the beams of the rising sun, before they fell +upon Jerusalem. Reland asserts that from its three eminences it is +called the Mount of the Three Summits. + +By a chain of fire-signals from this mountain the Israelites used to +communicate to their brethren in distant lands the appearance of the new +moon before the Passover. On one occasion the Samaritans, in order to +deceive the Jews, lighted similar fires at the wrong time, for which +reason the Jews were afterwards obliged to send messengers. The Talmud +relates the manner in which these fires were made. "How did they raise +the flames on high? They took long wands of cedar and reeds and pitchy +wood and tow, and bound them together with a thread. And one, after +ascending the mountain, lights this, and tosses the flame hither and +thither, and up and down, until he sees another doing the same on the +next mountain; and so on to the third. But from what point did they +first raise the fire on high? From the Mount of Olives to Sartaba; from +Sartaba to Gryphena; from Gryphena to Hauran; from Hauran to Beth +Baltin; and he who raised the flame on Beth Baltin did not retire from +it, but tossed his torch hither and thither, and up and down, until he +saw the whole Captivity blazing with fires[668]." "The Samaritans also +once raised the fires at the wrong time, and so deceived Israel." +(Gloss.) + +Sozomen[669] relates that, on the seventh of May, A.D. 331, a remarkable +prodigy manifested the glory of God to the inhabitants of Jerusalem. A +luminous cross, far brighter than any comet, was seen above the Valley +of Jehoshaphat, reaching from Golgotha to the Mount of Olives. This +vision lasted for several hours, and was seen by all the people, who ran +to the church to celebrate the praises of Him who had thus testified to +the truth of the Christian faith. + +Tancred, on the arrival of the Crusaders before Jerusalem, ascended this +mountain alone to reconnoitre the place, and was attacked by five +Mohammedans, whom he discomfited single-handed. Hither too the Crusaders +came in procession to pray for victory from the Lord of Hosts, before +they assaulted the walls. + +In the reign of Baldwin II. the Mohammedan chiefs with their bands +assembled here with their troops in order to assault the city; but the +Christian warriors attacked and dispersed them, slaying a great number, +and the rest were destroyed by a band who sallied forth from Nablous. +During the reign of the Latin kings the mountain was covered with +churches, chapels, and cells for monks and hermits. Hence remains of +these are constantly found. + +Let us now examine the summit bearing the name of the Ascension; and +relate the history of those monuments, of which some traces still +remain, or the sites of which are known. The mountain is crowned by a +small village, clustered round a mosque and minaret, and extending a +little eastward. Its cottages are miserable dens, but in their walls, +ordinary as they are, fragments are seen, generally mutilated, which +appear to have belonged to buildings of a higher architectural +character. In front of the village (called _Jebel Tor_), on the west, +the Greeks and the Armenians possess a plot of ground, in which they +have found, while working there, some pieces of ornamental work, such as +cornices, capitals, and the like; together with some large cisterns, +which are also common in other parts. On the Greek property towards the +north, an ancient wall was found in 1860, which from its masonry appears +to me to have formed part of a Roman intrenchment. I refer it to the +epoch of Titus, when the tenth legion was encamped here, and the +soldiers were ordered to fortify themselves[670]. On the western slope +is a small plateau, occupied by a Mohammedan cemetery, from which there +is a beautiful view; but in order to enjoy this thoroughly it is +necessary to ascend the minaret. This marks the spot from which the Lord +ascended into heaven. It is now covered by a small mosque, in which the +Mohammedans come to pray, shewing thus how greatly they also reverence +the place. Before examining it, we will notice the surprising panorama +visible from the minaret. To the west the Holy City is spread out before +us[671]. We look down the Valley of Jehoshaphat from its head on the +north, to where it joins the Tyropoeon and the Valley of Hinnom; we +can distinguish the hills of Jerusalem itself, and so understand its +ancient topography. What thoughts arise as the eye roams from the +plateau of the _Haram es-Sherîf_ to the Castle of David, from Golgotha +to Sion, from Bezetha to Gareb! The scenes of the Old and New Testament, +the histories of so many different nations, the punishment of the elect +people, are brought home to mind and heart; while we feel moved to +repeat the words of Jeremiah, "How doth the city sit solitary, that was +full of people! how is she become as a widow! she that was great among +the nations, and princess among the provinces, how is she become +tributary[672]!" "Is it nothing to you, all ye that pass by? behold, and +see if there be any sorrow like unto my sorrow, which is done unto me, +wherewith the Lord hath afflicted me in the day of His fierce +anger[673]." To the north is mount Scopus, the village of _Neby Samwîl_ +(Prophet Samuel), and the mountains of the ancient land of Ephraim, +combined with those of Samaria. Towards the east, the eye, after +traversing the desert hills and mountains of Judah down to the plains of +Jericho and the deep basin of the Dead Sea, is arrested by the range of +the Arabian mountains; the hills of the land of Gilead appear on the +north, lower down those of Ammon, and still further to the south, Nebo +rising above the other summits of Moab. Seen through the pure light +their sides are tinged with colour too beautiful for description, and +testing to the utmost the painter's skill. To the south rise the gloomy +herbless slopes of the distant heights of Bethlehem. To the south-east +is the Hill of Evil Counsel, the plain of Rephaim, and the Convent of S. +Elias, across a nearly desert tract of country. The whole panorama is a +picture of desolation. + +Let us now visit one by one the spots connected with incidents in sacred +history. First is the place occupied by the small mosque, called by the +Mohammedans the Mosque of the Ascension[674]. Eusebius[675] relates that +"the mother of Constantine, in order to do honour to the memory of our +Lord's ascension, erected some magnificent edifices on the Mount of +Olives. First she raised on the summit of the mountain a Sanctuary of +the Church of God." Hence we see that the first basilica on this site +was built by S. Helena; but of that no traces now remain, nor has any +description of it come down to us. S. Jerome alone gives us to +understand that it was circular in plan. "For the church, in the middle +of which are the foot-marks, was built on a circular plan and most +beautiful design[676]." He also, as well as many other fathers of the +Church, relates that the upper part of the dome could not be closed, +because our Lord rose from it, and that the marks of His footsteps on +the ground could never be covered up with marble[677]. This basilica was +no doubt destroyed, A.D. 614, during the invasion of Chosroes II., but +was rebuilt during the first half of the seventh century by the +Patriarch Modestus[678], and the original plan was retained. +Arculf[679], who saw it in the same century, has left us a detailed +notice of it. "On that Mount Olivet no place appears loftier than that +from which the Saviour is said to have ascended into heaven, where +stands a great circular church with three cloisters round it, with +chambers above them. The interior chamber of this circular church is +without a roof, and lies open to heaven under the air; in the eastern +part of which is an altar protected by a narrow roof. Now the inner +house has no chamber placed above it, in order that from the spot, where +last He placed His sacred feet, before He was borne in a cloud to +heaven, the way may be always open, and stretch away into heaven before +the eyes of the worshippers.... Moreover, there is a continuing +testimony that the dust was trodden by God, in that the traces of His +steps may be seen ... and the earth retains the mark as though stamped +with the impressions of feet. In the same place is a great brazen +cylinder opening outward (_ærea grandis per circuitum rota desuper +explanata_), the height of it being up to a man's head; in the middle +of which is a rather large hole, through which the prints of the Lord's +feet may be plainly seen marked in the dust. In that cylinder also on +the west side a kind of door is always open, and through it those who +enter can easily approach the sacred dust, and, by stretching out their +hands through the aperture of the covering, can take particles of the +sacred dust. On the west side of the upper part of the aforesaid rotunda +are eight windows with glass lights; and the same number of lamps is +suspended by cords within over against them; each being hung neither +above nor below, but as it were part and parcel of the window, directly +behind which it is seen. The brightness of these lamps shining through +the glass is so great, that not only is the western side of Olivet +adjoining the church illuminated, but also the greater part of the city +of Jerusalem from the bottom of the Valley of Jehoshaphat is lighted up +in the same manner." Willibald's description confirms, in every respect, +that of Arculf. + +We do not know precisely what became of the building at the time of +Hakem's persecution, A.D. 1010, but it seems probable that the Khalif +destroyed a considerable part of it; because, when Sæwulf visited the +place, A.D. 1103, he saw a small tower supported by columns, and +surrounded by a court paved with marble. The altar was inside, placed on +the rock; and there was another altar to the east in the choir a little +distance from the columns, where the Patriarch celebrated mass on +Ascension-Day. In the first half of the twelfth century the Crusaders +rebuilt the church on this site, and added a convent occupied by Canons +of the Augustinian order[680]. Their habit was white[681]. I only give +the Plan of the present building, as there are not sufficient remains to +enable me to reconstruct that of the Crusaders, and I but partially +accept the conclusions which M. de Vogüé has drawn from the testimony of +Quaresmius[682]: "The ancient church was a regular octagon in plan: all +the bases of the corner pillars still remain; it is easy therefore to +determine its perimeter. The octagon forming the base of the plan is +inscribed in a circle 111-1/2 feet in diameter. The building has not +been laid out with much accuracy, as the length of the sides of the +octagon (measured on the outside) vary between 39-1/4 and 42-1/2 +feet[683]. This fault proceeds from a want of exactness in the +execution; since it was evidently the intention of the architects to +construct a regular building, to recall by its polygonal form the +ancient rotunda whose ruins it replaced. There is a similar want of +regularity in the bases[684]; some are larger than others without any +apparent motive.... The bases of the columns sustaining the inner +rotunda have entirely disappeared; but they existed in the time of +Quaresmius, who has placed them in his plan equidistant from the centre +and the inside wall ... a wall of rubble-work, no doubt pierced with +windows, connected the corner piers. Nothing remains of this except some +shapeless fragments of its substructure. The examination of these +fragments induces us to suppose that the original wall did not run in +straight lines, but was rather circular in form[685]. In this +uncertainty I prefer to follow the indication of Quaresmius[686], who +doubtless was able to see quite enough of the original building to +ascertain its general plan. He says distinctly that was octagonal. 'The +lower parts of the walls are left, as well as some bases of columns and +foundations, from which we can infer how magnificent it was. Externally +it was an octagon in form, and inside was an ambulatory, supported by +one row of columns.'" From an examination of the spot I am induced to +believe that Quaresmius could not have seen much more than now remains; +and therefore cannot say whether he imagined or really saw the octagon. +In the latter case I suppose that its ruins have perished since his +time; and therefore M. de Vogüé cannot have seen the fragments of the +'wall of rubble-work connecting the piers.' I do not deny that his +restoration of the church deserves careful consideration, and probably +conveys a true idea of the building: but I believe that it cannot be +restricted to the present dimensions, and that we can place no reliance +upon the bases of columns and walls now remaining, because they have +been arranged according to the caprice of the Mohammedans, as was most +convenient. This I will presently explain; however, the Plan itself will +shew it. The church erected by the Crusaders was destroyed by the +Saracens, A.D. 1187. "Others indeed devastated the most holy Mount of +Olives, where the Lord, as we read in the Gospels, was often wont to +pray ... on which a church is built, on the spot where our Lord Jesus +Christ was taken up into heaven on the fortieth day after His +resurrection. In the middle of this a structure of wonderful roundness +and beauty is erected, where the Lord placed His feet[687]." + +The Mohammedans appear to have built the present mosque from the +materials of the ancient church: the dome is now closed[688]. Willibrand +of Oldenburg[689], who visited Olivet A.D. 1211, states that an infidel +Saracen had erected an oratory in honour of Mohammed over the ruins of +the Church of the Ascension. M. de Vogüé thinks that the Chronicler is +mistaken in saying that this was in honour of the Prophet, and not of +the Ascension, and that the date of the building is from 1200 to 1240. +No Christian community has ever had exclusive possession of the place. A +Mohammedan Santon is in charge, who for a present will open the doors to +any one wishing to visit it. Consequently, on Ascension-day the monks of +all the Christian sects resort thither, each party celebrating mass on +the spot marked on the Plan. The Greeks occupy the most distinguished +position, after the site occupied by the mosque; for there, according to +tradition, the Apostles stood as our Lord ascended. + +Travellers have all spoken about the prints of our Saviour's feet +(especially Abbé Mariti and Monsignor Mislin); with regard to these, as +they are unsupported by the Bible and the decrees of the Church, I +venture to declare that they are only representations of footsteps +carved by some sculptor. The truth of miracles in the abstract I do not +impugn, but for this there is no evidence. The Mohammedans preserve in +the mosque _el-Aksa_ one of the impressions, which also came from +Olivet. I defy the keenest observer to say which is the mark of the +right foot and which of the left. I do not believe in the instantaneous +fusion of the rock; it is only an Oriental invention; and we find +frequent instances of a similar kind among the different religious +bodies in the East; such as the other foot-prints of the Saviour, those +of the Virgin at Bethlehem, those of the Angel Gabriel, the impression +of the body of the Prophet Elias, the turban of Mohammed and his +foot-print, and a thousand similar stories. Therefore I say, with +Mariti, 'Let him believe that wishes to believe;' and am sure that I +offend not against God and religion in rejecting such old wives' tales. + +Let us now glance at some other points of interest. At the south-west +corner of the buildings surrounding the Church of the Ascension is the +Grotto or Tomb of S. Pelagia; over which a church used to stand. She was +a native of Alexandria, who went to Antioch in search of pleasure; and +as she was graceful, fair, and frail, was soon noted among the gallants +of that place, who called her 'the Pearl.' However, one day she listened +to a sermon preached by Nonnus, Patriarch of Antioch, which so affected +her, that, abandoning her former life, she went to inhabit the grotto on +Mount Olivet, which still bears her name; and so completely disguised +herself, that she was known to the hermits who lived in the other caves +in the neighbourhood by the name of the monk Pelagius. Her sex was not +discovered till she was laid out, before being buried beneath the spot +where she had lived. The Jews call this place the Tomb of the Prophetess +Huldah; for what reason they do not themselves know. The Plan[690] +exhibits the interior, half of which is vaulted with masonry, the rest +excavated in the rock. Tradition asserts that our Lord frequently +retired to this grotto to instruct His disciples; accordingly a church, +built by S. Helena in honour of this event, occupied this spot before +that dedicated to S. Pelagia. So we are informed by Eusebius[691]. "And +she also built a church lower down at that very cave, where (as the true +and holy utterances of God testify) the Disciples and Apostles were +initiated in all sacred mysteries." The Pilgrim of Bordeaux writes, A.D. +333, "Thence you ascend Mount Olivet, where the Lord taught His Apostles +before His Passion. There a basilica has been built by order of +Constantine[692]." Why does the Pilgrim pass unnoticed the Church of +the Ascension, so plainly indicated by Eusebius? Possibly the church of +the grotto, a kind of dependency of the place of the Ascension, may have +been the only part of the works completed at the time. + +Leaving the Grotto of S. Pelagia, and going towards the south-west, we +find a cistern near to an olive-tree, which is shewn as the place where +our Saviour taught the Apostles the Lord's Prayer. Formerly there was a +church here, as the following passage tells us: "In which place (i.e. +Olivet) the Lord was wont to instruct His disciples and all who flocked +to Him out of the city. And there He is said to have taught His +disciples the Lord's Prayer[693]." Not a trace of the church is now +left; and I cannot accept the tradition, as it is contrary to S. +Matthew's Gospel[694], which places the scene of this event in Galilee; +S. Luke[695], indeed, says our Lord repeated the prayer 'in a certain +place,' this may have been in Galilee or at Bethany, but not, I think, +at Jerusalem. + +A short distance from the above, to the east, is a cavern, wherein the +Apostles are believed to have composed the Creed. Here formerly stood a +church, dedicated to the twelve Apostles; as is shewn by the ruins still +remaining, and those which are dug up there from time to time. The Rev. +G. Williams[696], in 1842, saw twelve niches in the walls, six on each +side: these I never found; for the barbarous peasants of Olivet have +completely destroyed them, in order to use the stones in building their +cottages, after first breaking them in pieces so as to remove them more +easily. The tradition about the Creed is of no value. Adrichomius[697], +indeed, says, "the most probable opinion is, that the Apostles met +together in the Coenaculum in Sion to compose the Creed." + +On the summit, not far from the place where the Lord's Prayer is said to +have been pronounced, the spot is pointed out where our Lord stood when +He predicted the Last Judgment[698]. This tradition is, like the others, +worthless. + +Descending towards the south in the direction of the Mount of Offence, +we arrive, a few yards from a path leading to Bethany, at a field, in +which is the so-called Tomb of the Prophets[699]. We enter this cave by +a small aperture approached down a broken flight of steps. The Plan and +Sections render it unnecessary for me to describe its internal +arrangements. I will only mention that in certain parts, especially in +the piers, we find masonry, which has been added in order to strengthen +the piers of rock which had crumbled away, and so become incapable of +supporting the vaulted roof. The place is called by the Arabs _Kubur +el-Umbia_. Hither the Hebrew pilgrims come to lament and pray, +believing, according to a tradition commonly received by them, that +they are the burying-places of the Prophets. We will therefore see +whether the Bible confirms this belief. + +Though they are called the Tombs of the Prophets, the names of those who +have been buried there are not known; for the greater number and more +distinguished Prophets were not interred near Jerusalem. The +difficulties attending on this tradition are well put by M. Nau[700]. +"They point out the place where, as they say, the Prophets are buried. +But what Prophets? Isaiah is buried elsewhere, under Mount Sion; +Jeremiah at Alexandria, whither his remains were removed by Alexander +the Great from Tahpanhes in Egypt; Baruch, his secretary, went to +Babylon to console his countrymen in their captivity, and lies there. +Ezekiel, after being cruelly martyred by being dashed against rocks over +which he was dragged by the Jews, or (as others say) by horses, to which +he had been fastened, was buried in the sepulchre of Shem and Arphaxad. +Daniel ended his days at Babylon, either by a natural death (according +to the common opinion), or (according to an ancient manuscript of the +Emperor Basil, preserved in the Vatican) by decapitation, together with +his three holy companions, at the hand of a certain Attalus. His remains +were removed from Babylon to Alexandria, and thence to Venice. Hosea was +buried at Behemot in the tribe of Issachar, Joel at Bethor, Amos at +Tekoah, Obadiah and Elisha at Sebaste, Jonah at Geth, Micah and Habakkuk +near Eleutheropolis, Nahum at Begabar. Thus the burial-places of the +greater number of the prophets are elsewhere: but still we may suppose +that some of the others may have been interred in these tombs; for +example, Zephaniah, Haggai, Malachi, and many others of the Messengers +of God, mentioned in Holy Scripture, who have not left any writings, as +Gad, Nathan, Ahijah the Shilonite, and others. It is enough for some of +these to be buried here, in order to give the place a claim to its name. +It is also possible that the Jews may have collected the remains of +their more distinguished Prophets, and placed them in these tombs on the +Mount of Olives." No more need be said to shew how slight are the +grounds for the traditional name. It is indeed possible that the words +of our Lord may refer to these tombs: "Woe unto you, Scribes and +Pharisees, hypocrites! because ye build the tombs of the Prophets, and +garnish the sepulchres of the righteous[701]." "Woe unto you! for ye +build the sepulchres of the Prophets, and your fathers killed +them[702]." Certainly I do not consider these tombs to be as ancient as +many others in the Valley of Kidron and Hinnom and on the north of the +city, which we shall presently examine. + +Quitting the Mount of Olives, let us take the path running eastward, +which will lead us to the ancient village of Bethphage, so well known in +connexion with the Redeemer's entry into Jerusalem. It formerly belonged +to the Levites employed in the Temple. Origen, in his treatise on S. +Matthew[703], explains the word to mean House of the Jaws. S. +Jerome[704] speaks of it as follows: "When He had come to Bethphage, to +the House of the Jaws, which is a village belonging to the Priests, and +a type of (Christian) confession, situated on the Mount of Olives." +Again, in the account of S. Paula's journey[705], he says, "After she +had entered the Tomb of Lazarus, Mary and Martha, she saw the hospice +and Bethphage, the 'Village of the Jaws,' which were the priests' +portion." Others interpret the word 'House of Figs,' and the Easterns +assert that it means 'House of the Rock in the Valley.' The position of +the place is certainly in favour of this last signification, as just +there the valley is divided into two branches by a rocky hill. + +At the present day there are no traces of the church, which is said to +have stood there, or even of the village itself; nothing is seen but +bare rock, broken here and there by patches of badly tilled ground. +Quaresmius[706] gives an account of the long procession which used in +his time to be made on Palm Sunday, "When the Guardian of the Holy Land, +with his attendant monks, had reached the spot, he preached to the +people: then a deacon chanted the Gospel for the day. At the words, +'Jesus sent two disciples, saying unto them,' two monks fell on their +knees in front of the reader, who continued, 'Go into the village over +against you, and straightway ye shall find an ass tied, and a colt with +her; loose them and bring them unto me.' Then the two departed and +brought an ass, on which the Guardian mounted, while the bystanders +spread their garments and olive-branches in the way, and so the +procession started for Jerusalem, chanting as they went, 'The sons of +the Hebrews brought branches of olive,' and proceeded to the city." Even +in the time of Quaresmius nothing remained of either the church or the +village. I could wish that some of the ceremonies still performed in the +Holy Sepulchre, had, like this, fallen into disuse. + +After descending from Bethphage for about half a mile by a very steep +and stony path, we come to the village of Bethany. It may perhaps be +asserted, that this way going from the Mount of Olives through Bethphage +and Bethany was not in existence in former times, and is rather a +cattle-track than a road, but it is mentioned by S. Epiphanius[707]: +"Then he (Marcion) does not give any account of His journey from Jericho +until He arrives at Bethany and Bethphage. But there was an ancient road +which led from Jerusalem by Mount Olivet, which those who traverse these +regions are acquainted with." Therefore it is evident that this road was +more ancient than that which went from Jerusalem to Bethany by the Mount +of Offence. The former is the one which we suppose our Lord to have +traversed on His triumphal entry into Jerusalem, and on other +occasions. Bethany was a Jewish fortress on the eastern slope of Olivet: +it was the home of Lazarus and his sisters[708], and is frequently +mentioned in the Gospels[709], being the favourite resort of Jesus and +His disciples. The position of the village is incontestably fixed by +history, tradition, and the locality itself. + +We are told by S. John[710] that Bethany was about 15 stadia, or nearly +2 Roman miles, from Jerusalem, and the present village is that distance. +We may fairly suppose that the house of Lazarus must have been of +considerable size from the allusions to it in the Gospels[711], and +consequently it and the village could hardly have been destroyed without +leaving some ruins to mark the spot; and therefore the tradition would +be preserved until the fourth century, when monuments were erected by +the Christians on the sites connected with the life of Christ. It is +then only necessary to examine into the accuracy of the tradition during +the first three centuries; but here the same arguments that we used in +the case of the Sepulchre of Christ may be applied to Bethany, and +especially to the Tomb of Lazarus. The present condition of the place +may also persuade those who distrust tradition, for there are still very +many ruins there, and consequently must have been more in the first ages +of Christianity. If it be urged that they are the effects of the ravages +of the Saracens on the work of the Crusaders, I admit the objection to +be partly true, but reply that the eye can readily distinguish these +from the more ancient Jewish remains. In a word, there is no other place +on the eastern slope of Olivet, which so perfectly fulfils all the +requisite conditions, as the present village of Bethany: and even its +Arab name _El-Azirieh_ still retains that of Lazarus. The Mohammedans +themselves so fully believe that this is the scene of the raising of +Lazarus, that they come as pilgrims from distant countries to supplicate +health for themselves and their sick children, in faith that if they +touch the rock of the tomb their prayers will be granted by God. In 1859 +some labourers discovered, at the distance of a few yards from the +village, to the east, near the road going to the Jordan, a wall which +had all the characteristics of ancient Jewish work of the age of the +Herods. Its shape and position seem to indicate that it had formed part +of an enclosure; the continuation of which was observed a little to the +south, and also to the north-west of the Arab houses. Near it a great +quantity of materials of the Herodian epoch were discovered, scattered +about in the ground, with several deep cisterns entirely excavated and +vaulted in the rock, full of fragments of ancient masonry. These also +occur in other parts of the village. After carefully examining the +boundary wall, wherever it could be found, I have arrived at the +conclusion that the traditional House and Tomb of Lazarus are outside +it. Thus the objection often brought against them, that they are inside +the village, in opposition to the Jewish law, does not apply. For a long +time past the peasants of Bethany have been accustomed to find dressed +stones in their fields, which they have either broken up, in order to +carry them away easily into the city, or have burnt for lime. If, then, +we do not suppose the ancient village to have been there, I do not see +how we can explain the presence of these remains. The eastern part of +the present village occupies a portion of the old site, and the western +was built when memorials were erected by the Christians over the Holy +Places. Bethany is now a wretched spot, consisting of about forty +cottages, built on ruins and heaps of rubbish. A short distance from the +entrance to the village, on the west, is a splendid ruin, the remains of +a building of considerable size, which is shewn as the House of Lazarus. +To the east of this, among the houses, is the mosque[712], and near it +the Tomb of Lazarus. The houses of Martha, Mary, and Simon the Leper, +are also shewn by the natives; but as these exhibit no signs of +antiquity, and the first two are obviously improbable, I pass them by +without further notice, to consider the Tomb of Lazarus. This, like most +of the Jewish sepulchres, consists of two underground chambers, namely, +a vestibule and a tomb properly so called. The latter is entirely +excavated in the rock, while the former is of masonry, together with the +walls of the staircase leading down to it, which dates (according to +Mariti[713]) from the beginning of the seventeenth century; that is, +from 1612 to 1615, when Father Angelo of Messina was Guardian of the +holy mountain of Sion, and built this approach to the tomb. Mariti adds, +that it was made because the ancient one was in the adjoining mosque, +formerly a Christian church. With this I cannot agree, because, after +examining the interior of the mosque, I have been unable to find any +trace of a communication with the inside of the tomb; and in the +interior of the latter there are no signs of a walled-up door, to give +access to this supposed passage. The locality has undergone so many +alterations, that it is now impossible to fix the relative positions of +the church and the tomb; but the former must have been different in plan +and in dimensions from the small mosque, which, as I believe, retains +few, if any, remains of the ancient Christian church. The tradition +indicating this spot as the scene of the miracle is as early as that of +Bethany itself. The Pilgrim of Bordeaux, A.D. 333, writes, "There is a +crypt there, where Lazarus, whom the Lord raised, was laid." He does not +allude to any building erected there by S. Helena, therefore I doubt the +truth of the following statement of Nicephorus Callistus[714]: "Thence +having gone on to Bethany, she erected a noble temple to Lazarus the +friend of Christ. That place is two miles from Jerusalem." S. +Jerome[715] (who died A.D. 420) speaks of this tomb and of a church +there, but does not say that it was built by the Empress Helena[716]. +At a later period the tomb and church were seen by Antoninus of Piacenza +and Arculf; the latter of whom "visited at Bethany a certain small field +surrounded by a great olive-grove, on which stands a large monastery, +and a large church built over the cave, from which our Lord raised up +Lazarus after he had lain dead four days[717]." Bernard, the Wise[718], +writes thus: "Thence we proceeded to Bethany on the descent of Mount +Olivet, where is a monastery whose church marks the Tomb of Lazarus." +This place is also mentioned by Sæwulf, so that tradition and local +evidence bring it down to the epoch of the Latin kingdom. The tomb must +have been altered by the Crusaders, whose work we recognize in the +vestibule leading into the sepulchre; but we have no record of the +general appearance of the exterior of the church after their +restoration. We see, therefore, that an unbroken tradition has been +attached to this tomb from the beginning of the Christian era to the +present day. + +Let us now visit the ruins of the so-called House of Lazarus, which are +a short distance to the west of the tomb. All that we can distinguish +here with certainty is the ruin of a square tower, the masonry of which +is of the time of the Crusades. The presence of a quantity of small +white tesseræ encouraged me to excavate inside its walls, when I found +in its foundations stones with rude rustic-work; and in removing the +rubbish, saw some other stones in which were holes, apparently made to +receive lead or iron clamps, to bind them together. Hence I consider +that the Crusaders' building partly rests upon ancient Jewish +foundations; and that it is not by any means improbable that this is the +actual site of the House of Lazarus. The walls and portion of the tower +now remaining are the ruins of a hospice, which was rebuilt by Queen +Milisendis[719] in the first half of the twelfth century; the original +building (dating from the sixth century and visited by Antoninus of +Piacenza) having been destroyed by the Saracens. Milisendis obtained for +this purpose the church of Bethany, and all the land belonging to it, +from the Canons of the Holy Sepulchre, giving them in exchange the town +of Tekoa, near Bethlehem. The deed of exchange, dated on the nones of +February 1138, is preserved in the Cartulary of the Holy Sepulchre[720], +and also the bull of Celestine II., A.D. 1143, confirming it[721]. The +queen considering that the convent, being in a lonely situation and a +considerable distance from the city, would be in danger of attack in +case of war, built there with squared and dressed stones a very strong +tower, containing the necessary offices, as a refuge for the nuns, until +succours arrived from Jerusalem[722]. This it is whose ruins we now see. +She also amply endowed the convent, assigning to it the revenues of +Jericho and its dependencies, with many other gifts, recorded by William +of Tyre in the passage just cited. The same author goes on to inform us +that when the work was finished, Milisendis established there a +community of Benedictine nuns, presided over by an abbess, "an aged and +venerable matron, of approved piety," after whose death, "returning to +her (original) purpose, she placed her own sister, with the consent of +the Lord Patriarch and assent of the sisterhood, at the head of the +nunnery;" giving at the same time yet more gifts, such as chalices, +books, and other ornaments used for ecclesiastical purposes; nor did she +cease all her life according to the desire of her heart, and for the +sake of her sister, whom she specially loved, to shew kindness to the +place. The name of the first abbess was Matilda[723]. Juveta is +mentioned as abbess of the nunnery of S. Lazarus at Bethany, in a +contract for the exchange of some rents between her and the nuns of the +Hospital of S. Lazarus at Jerusalem. It bears the date A.D. 1157, in the +reign of Baldwin III. After the witnesses' signatures we find written, +"All these things were confirmed in the presence of Queen Milisendis." +To the document a seal is attached mentioned by Paoli[724]. In the +middle of it is the figure of a lady, partially effaced, holding against +her breast a book bearing a cross. The legend is JUDITTA ABBATISSH. On +the reverse is our Saviour recalling Lazarus to life, with the legend +RESUCTATIO LAZARI. On the invasion of Saladin the nuns retired to S. +Jean d'Acre, and the convent was destroyed, since which period it has +remained in ruins. + +Thus, having completed our examination of Bethany, let us return by the +road passing on the south of the Mount of Olives. This was the ancient +military way from Jerusalem to Jericho and the left bank of the Jordan, +and is still the usual route to the same places. Traces of the old +paving are yet to be seen at certain points. Near the Mount of Offence +the local guide stops the visitor to shew him the fig-tree which +withered away at our Lord's command[725]; and, if he is well up to his +work, will not forget to point out the tree on which Judas hanged +himself. But let us enter the Valley of Hinnom. + +This was the boundary-line between Judah on the south and Benjamin on +the north[726]. The Arabic name is _Wady er-Rabab_, the Hebrew, +_Ge-Hinnom_ or _Ben-Hinnom_ (the valley of the son of Hinnom). The +bloody rites of Moloch[727] and Baal gave it its evil fame, which were +celebrated more especially in the place called Tophet[728]; this was, +according to Jerome, the lower (eastern) part of Hinnom. S. Jerome[729] +asserts that Christ was the first to use this word in the sense 'hell;' +an application which the abominable idolatrous rites that had been +enacted there rendered most appropriate. The Prophet Jeremiah frequently +mentions Tophet, but one passage is very remarkable from the manner in +which its fulfilment is evident at the present day. "Behold, the days +come, saith the Lord, that it shall be no more called Tophet, nor the +valley of the son of Hinnom, but the valley of slaughter: for they shall +bury in Tophet till there be no place[730]." Now, whichever way we turn, +our eyes rest on tombs, many broken as the nation that once profaned +this spot: so that no one can tread these rocks heedless and unmoved. + +To the south of the Valley of Hinnom is the hill, called by the +Christians the Hill of Evil Counsel, because of a legend, that in a +village on its western side, all trace of which has now disappeared, was +a house belonging to Caiaphas; where the Priests and Pharisees assembled +to compass the capture and death of Christ. Pompeius encamped upon its +summit after he had taken Jerusalem[731]. The Arabs call it _Jebel +el-Kubur_ (Mount of the Tombs); a most appropriate name, as it is in +reality one great necropolis; now, however, inhabited by many peasants +of Siloam, who have housed themselves and their crops in some of the +sepulchral chambers, and converted others into cisterns. We will visit +all the more interesting objects which we meet as we ascend from the +Well of Job. At the bottom of a narrow trench, sloping steeply +downwards, is a frontispiece[732], decorated with a triangular pediment, +with a trefoil as finial, above a small doorway. On each side of this is +a pilaster; these are still visible, though partly covered with soil. +The interior[733] has this peculiarity, that the arches forming the +roofs of the sepulchral niches are not very nearly semicircular, but +extremely depressed; and a trough-shaped cavity or sarcophagus takes the +place of the shelf for the corpse; an arrangement which does not occur +in the tombs on the north of the city, or in the Kidron Valley. While I +was engaged in making my Plan, I found a great number of bones in the +interior; and in the chamber furthest to the east four perfect +skeletons, which I discovered must have been placed there a few months +before. I consider these tombs, as well as the others so common in the +vicinity, to be more recent than those which are found elsewhere in the +neighbourhood of the city; certainly they did not exist in the time of +the Jewish kings, when Tophet was considered an accursed place. I think +that they were excavated during the Asmonæan period, as the prejudice +against the site might by that time have diminished. The simple but +careful ornamentation of these tombs, the whiteness of the surface, and +the absence of certain marks on the stone, characteristic of the +instruments of the earlier period, all lead me to the same conclusion. + +A few yards to the west of the last tomb is another remarkable for its +elaborate façade[734]. This is of the Doric order. The frieze is divided +by triglyphs, having eight metopes, each charged with a patera of a +different pattern. Some traces of fresco painting are still seen on the +soffit of the vestibule and in the inner chambers, which induce me to +think that it has been used as a chapel. According to tradition the +Apostles concealed themselves here also after our Saviour was taken +prisoner; and at a later period S. Onuphrius lived and died here in +retirement. For this cause it was converted into a chapel dedicated to +this Saint, and it is still visited by the Greeks once a year to offer +up prayers. Schultz considers it to be the monument of Ananus the +High-priest; a point in the wall of circumvallation constructed by +Titus[735]. As its decoration is probably of the Herodian age, I agree +with him. + +On the west of this we find, after passing Aceldama, a tomb[736], which +gives us a good idea of what the Sepulchre of Jesus was formerly like. +When Constantine embraced Christianity, this hill, as well as the +others, was occupied by anchorites, who lived in the tombs and caverns. +So we are told by Antoninus of Piacenza[737]. "Within the very +sepulchres are the cells of the servants of God, wherein many virtues +are displayed." So again we find in the Geography of Edrisi: "Near this +are a number of houses excavated in the rock, inhabited by pious +hermits[738]." + +Almost half way up the hill is a building which has retained the name +Aceldama (Price of Blood[739]). An uninterrupted tradition identifies +this with the Potter's field, bought as the burial-place of +strangers[740]. This place recalls to the mind one of the most sublime +prophecies of Jeremiah[741], of which it may have been the scene; when +he broke the potter's earthen vessel before the ancients of Israel, +crying, "Thus saith the Lord of hosts, Even so will I break this people +and this city as one breaketh a potter's vessel that cannot be made +whole again"--words which still are fulfilled by Jerusalem and the Jews. + +In the field is a great subterranean chamber, excavated in the rock, +enclosed by a wall supporting a vaulted roof, and pierced by holes, +through which the corpses were let down. In the lower part of the west +side is an aperture formed in the rock, perhaps to admit servants to +gather together the ashes after the corpses were consumed; but of these +no traces can now be found. In the interior on the south side is a great +pier made out of the rock, and strengthened with masonry, which divides +the chamber into two on that side. Nicephorus Callistus attributes this +monument to S. Helena[742]. After examining the walls I have come to the +conclusion that they are of two periods, the first that of S. Helena, +to which I refer the inside wall, especially in the lower parts; and the +second that of the Crusades, which is the date of the part above ground +and the vaulting. At that time the Hospitalers interred here those who +died in the Hospital, as we learn from the following passage: "On the +left hand the valley had a charnel-house called Chaudemar. Therein they +cast the pilgrims who died in the Hospital at Jerusalem. This piece of +land, where the charnel-house lay, was bought with the money for which +Judas sold the dear Jesus Christ, as saith the Evangelist[743]." A +church also stood on this spot, as is shewn by a document entitled, +"Archives of the Hospitalers in the year 1143," in which we find, "I +William, by the Grace of God, Patriarch of Holy Jerusalem ... proclaim +that I have granted for ever to the Hospital which is in Jerusalem, a +certain church, situated in the field called _Achel-demach_, where the +bodies of strangers are buried; together with all the land, divided by +the ancient Syrians in our presence." No trace now remains of this +church, but it was probably built over the vault, and was only a +consecrated room to be used as a mortuary-chapel. Popular superstition +attributes to the soil of Aceldama the property of consuming the corpses +buried there in twenty-four hours; for which reason it was carried away +to be used in Christian burial-places. S. Helena transported 270 +ship-loads to Rome. The Pisan Crusaders on their return from Syria +brought back a great quantity of it, which was deposited on their Campo +Santo, A.D. 1218. I was anxious to test the truth of the belief, and so +buried at a depth of four feet the body, not indeed of a human being, +but of a lamb. After eight days I disinterred it, and unfortunately for +my sense of smell, found that although I had carefully selected a piece +of natural ground free from rubbish, the experiment was unsuccessful; I +am therefore driven to conclude that the soil has lost its former +virtue. I also filled a box with the soil, and placed therein birds, +small quadrupeds, and reptiles; but in all cases the flesh was consumed +slowly. I also planted flowers in some of it, at my own house, and found +that they flourished perfectly. + +Many persons have laid much stress on the fact that a great quantity of +broken earthenware vases has been found about Aceldama, which they have +considered to be of great age, and proofs of its former use; but in what +part of the neighbourhood of Jerusalem, and indeed of all the towns and +villages of Palestine are not similar remains found? Hewers of stone, +labourers, shepherds and many others, pass whole days away from their +houses, especially in places where there are tombs, and always bring +with them vessels of water, many of which get broken from time to time; +a circumstance which accounts for these fragments being found especially +in the neighbourhood of the more populous cities. + +From Aceldama we can ascend to the top of the hill to visit the ruins of +_Deir-Kaddis-Modistus_. This appears to have been an ancient convent, at +the time when the anchorites inhabited the caverns. Now we see a +Mohammedan tomb, and two Arab cottages, erected by the Greek +Archimandrite, Nicoforus, who has purchased a large estate there; and in +a few years the mountain-side, after so many centuries of sterility, +will be again fertile. When these were being built, I often visited the +place, and noticed that, as the rubbish was cleared away, some remains +of ancient Jewish and Roman walls were discovered; the occurrence of +which, renders it not at all improbable that a fortress occupied the +position in the time of the Maccabees. + +We descend the Hill of Evil Counsel to the Bethlehem road, and follow +this northward till we reach the valley of Gihon on the north-west. On +our left is a new mulberry plantation, in the middle of which stand a +small tower and the beginning of a house, all the work of Nicoforus, who +intends to establish here a spinning-mill for silk. This spot is _Kasr +el-Asfur_ or _el-Ghazal_ (House of the young sparrow, or of the +gazelle)[744]. Here we find many cisterns entirely excavated in the +rock, and a quantity of hewn rock, still bearing marks characteristic of +the ancient tools. Dressed stones and fragments of walls of the Jewish +period are not unfrequently found here by the labourers, when digging +deep to bring the ground under cultivation; but unfortunately the +Archimandrite is not as fond of archæology as of farming; and these +remains are blown up with gunpowder to gain two or three inches more +soil for the roots of a tree, so that the traces of ancient works, of +the highest importance in determining the former topography of the +neighbourhood of the city, are thus obliterated. + +A little to the north of _Kasr el-Asfur_ is a large plot of land +enclosed by a new Arab wall, on which stands a long building, certainly +not remarkable for its good architecture and internal arrangement. It is +a hospice for Jews, founded in 1858 by Sir Moses Montefiore of London, +with the assistance of others professing the same creed. It has been +erected to supply lodgings for the poor, where they may enjoy a purer +air than they do in their own quarter of the city. Behind the principal +building, to the west, Sir Moses Montefiore erected a wind-mill, which +would be of the highest value to the whole country if only its +advantages were understood; but the Arabs still prefer using their own +miserable hand or horse-mills, which spoil their flour, to the trouble +of carrying the grain this short distance from the city. In time, no +doubt, they will perceive the obligation they are under to this +philanthropic Israelite. + +In the lower part of the valley, to the east of the above-named +establishment, is a very large pool excavated in the rock, except on +the north and south side, where its waters are retained by walls. It is +the largest in the neighbourhood of Jerusalem, and bears the name +_Birket es-Sultan_ (Prince's Pool). It is so called because the popular +belief is that it was originally constructed by David or Solomon, and +afterwards repaired by various sultans. An Arabic inscription on the +frontispiece of a fountain (now dry) to the south, called _Aïn +el-Melik_, informs us that it was restored by the Mamaluke Sultan +el-Melik en-Naser-Mohammed, between the years 693 and 741 of the Hejra +(from 1294 to 1340 A.D.). It was also repaired by Sultan Solyman I. in +the sixteenth century. Owing to a mistake made by Bonifacius[745] it has +been wrongly supposed to be the Pool of Bersabeë (Bathsheba), where the +wife of Uriah the Hittite was bathing, when she was seen by David. This +is however obviously contrary to the words in the Bible[746], that +"David walked upon the roof of the King's house, and from the roof he +saw a woman washing herself, &c." Besides, it is in the last degree +improbable that a woman of good reputation would bathe in a pool by the +side of a public road. It is more likely that it bears the name of +Bethsabeë or Bersabeë, because it is at the beginning of the road +leading to the city of Bersabeë[747]. I have no doubt that this is the +'lower pool' mentioned by the Prophet Isaiah[748]; but I shall discuss +this question in the Chapter on the Waters, and give an account of the +aqueduct, which runs along its western side, and then after turning +eastward goes to Sion. In the middle ages it was repaired by one +Germanus, as the following passage shews: "When they had descended the +mount," it is told in our account of the thirteenth century, "they found +a pool in the valley, called Germanus' Pool, because Germanus +constructed it to catch the water that descended from the hills when it +rained; there the horses of the city used to drink[749]." It is true +that the above quotation asserts that Germanus made the pool, but I +understand this only to mean repaired; because it is far too great a +work to have been undertaken in the time of the Crusades, simply to form +a watering-place for horses, when other ponds in the neighbourhood of +the city would have served for this purpose. It is also mentioned in the +Cartulary of the Holy Sepulchre in the year 1177. The pool is now dry, +and even after rain the water does not remain in it, although it could +be restored for a small sum. During the harvest the farmers dry and +thresh out their crops in it. + +Hence we return to the city by ascending the rough road leading up to +that part of the wall enclosing Mount Sion, which bears the name of +_Abraj Ghazzah_ (towers of Gaza), and after passing the south-west +corner of this, we arrive on the plateau of the hill, which is occupied +by a cemetery, divided among the different Christian communities in +Jerusalem. At the south-east corner of this stands a group of buildings, +known by the names of the Tomb of David and the Coenaculum. A small +dome, surmounted by a crescent, marks the position of the former[750]. +That this is the site of the tomb of the Royal Psalmist and his +successors, I trust to shew by the aid of the Bible, of history, of +tradition, and of local evidence at the present time. We find the +following passages in the Bible: "David took the stronghold of Sion, the +same is the city of David.... So David dwelt in the fort, and called it +the city of David[751]. So David slept with his fathers, and was buried +in the city of David[752]." Again, after the death of the Psalmist, +several of his successors are mentioned as being buried "with their +fathers in the city of David[753]." But this is not all; in the Book of +Nehemiah[754] we find "the gate of the fountain repaired Shallum ... and +the wall of the pool of Siloah by the King's garden, and unto the stairs +that go down from the city of David. After him repaired Nehemiah ... +unto the place over against the sepulchres of David, and to the pool +that was made, and unto the house of the mighty." From this it is clear +that the wall, in coming from the direction of the King's garden and the +pool of Siloam, mounted the eastern slope of Sion as far as the Tomb of +David, and that the 'pool that was made' is _Birket es-Sultan_, and +possibly the 'house of the mighty' may be the citadel. Hence the Tomb of +David must have been well known to the Jews of later ages. Again, +Josephus[755] states that Solomon buried great treasures in his father's +tomb, and that Hyrcanus the High-priest broke open the tomb and took +therefrom three thousand talents. This happened about 129 B.C. In +another place[756] we find, "As for Herod, he had spent vast sums about +the cities, both without and within his own kingdom, and as he had +before heard that Hyrcanus, who had been king before him, had opened +David's sepulchre, and had taken out of it three thousand talents of +silver, and that there was a much greater number left behind, and indeed +enough to suffice all his wants, he had a great while an intention to +make the attempt; and at this time he opened the sepulchre by night and +went into it, and endeavoured that it should not be at all known in the +city, but took only his most faithful friends with him. As for money he +found none, as Hyrcanus had done, but that furniture of gold and those +precious stones that were laid up there, all which he took away. +However, he had a great desire to make a more diligent search, and to go +further in, even as far as the very bodies of David and Solomon; where +two of his guards were slain by a flame that burst out upon those that +went in, as the report was. So he was terribly affrighted, and went +out, and built a propitiatory monument of that fright he had been in, +and this of white stone, at the mouth of the sepulchre, and at a great +expense also." This took place about the year 12 B.C. Had the tomb been +outside the walls, it is less likely that it would have escaped +destruction in the various sieges of Jerusalem; and the account just +cited produces the impression that it was within the city. S. +Peter[757], addressing the Jews, says, "Let me freely speak unto you of +the patriarch David, that he is both dead and buried, and his sepulchre +is with us unto this day." This brings us down to the year 34 A.D. Dio +Cassius[758] states that part of the Tomb of David fell down of itself +in the time of Hadrian, which was considered by the Jews to be an evil +omen. S. Jerome[759] also informs us that it was visited by the +Christians, when he says to S. Paula and S. Eustochium her daughter, +"When shall we be allowed to enter the Sepulchre of the Redeemer, and to +pray in the Tomb of David?" He does not indeed expressly say that it was +within the city, but we may infer it from his mentioning it together +with the Sepulchre of Christ, and not alluding to it when he describes +the visits to the Sanctuaries in the neighbourhood of Jerusalem. This +evidence brings us down to the fifth century. The Jewish tradition also +on this point is of real weight, because it has never placed the tomb +otherwise than on Sion, outside the present city-walls, though without +fixing its exact position. Benjamin of Tudela[760], who wrote A.D. 1173, +relates that about fifteen years before his arrival at Jerusalem one of +the walls of the oratory on Mount Sion fell down, and that while it was +being repaired two of the workmen went on with their labour while the +rest were absent, and broke away a stone that formed the mouth of a +cavern; into this they agreed to enter in search of treasure, "and they +proceeded until they reached a large hall, supported by pillars of +marble incrusted with gold and silver, before which stood a table with a +golden sceptre and crown. This was the Sepulchre of David, King of +Israel.... They further saw chests locked up, the contents of which +nobody knew, and were on the point of entering the hall when a blast of +wind like a storm issued forth from the mouth of the cavern, so strong +that it threw them down almost lifeless on the ground. There they lay +until evening, when another wind rushed forth, from which they heard a +voice like that of a man calling aloud, Get up and go forth from this +place." Now I do not attempt to deny that this story may be false or +greatly exaggerated, but at any rate it proves that the Tomb of David +was clearly pointed out by tradition at that time as being on Sion. A +Florentine lady, Sophia degli Arcangeli, erected a hospice containing +200 beds near the Coenaculum, in the year 1354, to entertain pilgrims +to the Holy City, and then began to excavate on Sion a subterranean +chamber to bury the Latins who died during their visit. When the work +was commenced in the Latin cemetery, near to the boundary of that +belonging to the Armenians, the ground gave way, and a great underground +cavern appeared. For this reason the attempt was abandoned lest it +should lead to disputes with the neighbours. Now this fact does not give +us any indication of the place of the Tomb of David, but it proves the +existence of a cavern, such as is now seen, with its opening on the west +side of Sion. This then especially occupied my attention, as I thought +it would afford the means of determining the Tomb of David, which all +the Jews now in Jerusalem unanimously assert to be on Sion. They do not +indeed generally assign any exact position to it, not I believe from +ignorance, but from religious scruple; some however less anxiously +cautious, say that it is on the site usually pointed out, namely at +_Neby Daûd_, which is the Arab name for the eastern part of the building +attached to the Coenaculum. Quaresmius[761], who was Guardian of the +Holy Land in 1630, and visited the tomb with the interpreter of the +Latin convent, assures us that nothing remains under the present place. +I allude to this to shew that the tradition of the tomb being near the +Coenaculum was also current among the Franciscan monks. + +Before bringing forward my own investigations, and the conclusions +derived from them, I quote the words of M. Mislin[762]: "I visited the +Tomb of David, April 1, 1855. It was three o'clock in the afternoon; +Kiamil Pasha and the chief personages awaited us in a small court, the +entrance to which is on the left-hand side of the great doorway. We at +once descended by a staircase of only six or eight steps into a low +vaulted chamber, which, so far as I can judge, is situated exactly under +the Church of the Institution of the Eucharist, of which it is only the +crypt. No doubt it was one of the three churches, placed one on the +other, mentioned by Fabri[763]. 'It had consecrated places on three +different levels, namely a crypt underground, a church above ground, and +over that another decorated tabernacle.' After passing through the +vestibule we arrived at the part corresponding with the single nave of +the church above. Here however the nave is divided into two by a row of +massive piers of rock in the middle, supporting the vaulted roof. The +latter half, or rather part of this crypt, for it is smaller than the +other, is separated by a transverse railing, and is itself divided by +another railing at right angles to the former, so as to form two spaces +at the southern end of the chamber. The entrance is by that on the right +hand, and the tomb occupies almost the whole of that on the left. When +we had entered the former chamber, which I will call the _Mihrab_, +because in it is the niche for prayers, ... the place in which we were +was very dark, and the neighbouring chamber was worse; so that all that +we could see on the other side of the railing separating us from it, was +a carpet, which was not enough to satisfy our curiosity. Kiamil Pasha +remarked to the Sheikh that we were come to see the tomb; he then opened +the door with a very good grace. The Pasha kneeled down and pressed the +fringe of the carpet covering the tomb to his mouth and forehead for a +moment, and then allowed us to examine it at our pleasure. Before us was +a sarcophagus about seven feet high, and twelve long. It was covered +with seven very rich carpets. The upper was blue silk with large deeper +coloured stripes; it was worked over with texts from the Koran. In the +middle of the sarcophagus there is also a square piece of stuff richly +embroidered, with a gold fringe; on it also are texts from the Koran, +worked in gold thread. It was the gift of the Sultan Abdul-Medjid. The +second carpet is bright blue with flowers worked in silver thread. The +others are well worn and less rich than these. From the roof a canopy of +silk is suspended, striped white and blue. The Sheikh who accompanied us +raised a corner of the carpet, so that I was able to touch the +sarcophagus; but owing to the many folds of the cloth, I had great +difficulty in forming an opinion of its shape and material. Observing +that I was not yet satisfied, he then took courage and raised the whole +of the carpet from the part where there was the best light. By this +means I saw the entire front of the sarcophagus, which appeared to me to +be made of unpolished grey marble. In the middle was a medallion of +darker colour, and I asked its meaning. The Sheikh informed me that it +marked the position of the Prophet's navel. I examined the walls; they +are covered with earthenware tiles with a blue pattern on a white +ground. Bronze lamps are placed here and there around the tomb. Near the +door, on the left hand on going out, is a chain suspended from the wall, +with oblong links. The Sheikh told me it was a model of one made by +David himself.... The Mohammedans act wisely in keeping this tomb +concealed, in order to invest it with some importance." The last is an +unfortunate remark; the Mohammedans, and especially the Sheikhs who are +in charge of the place, know very well what they are about, as I will +presently shew. + +I visited the chamber described by M. Mislin in February 1859; having +obtained admission from the same Santon in return for certain services I +had rendered him, also by bribes and presents at various times, by the +recommendation of Surraya Pasha, and by having won the good will of the +Mohammedan families who occupy the houses about _Neby Daûd_; most of +whom let out horses and beasts of burden for hire, and were under +obligations to me for recommending them to travellers. For all these +reasons, and after much expenditure of money and patience, I gained +entrance into the Sepulchre of David, visited his pretended tomb, and +made the observations I am about to describe. The description of M. +Mislin is very accurate, but I am able to make the following additions +to it: (1) Under the earthenware tiles in the chamber of the +sarcophagus, I discovered, by means of an examination made from the +outside, the walls of an ancient Jewish building, combined, in the parts +above the floor, with masonry of a later date, which has been introduced +during repairs. This is to be found especially on the east and north +sides. (2) The sarcophagus is not of unpolished grey marble, but of +whitish Palestine breccia, called marble by the ancients, from its +resemblance in working and polish. The greyish colour is due to its age, +and perhaps also to the bad light or to the shade cast by the upraised +carpets on the small part of it that was examined. (3) The medallion +does not mark the position of the Prophet's navel, as the Sheikh said, +but is a simple decoration attached to the sarcophagus; it is repeated +on each of the other sides. Neither is it of darker marble, but as it is +continually kissed by devotees its colour has been altered. (4) The form +of the sarcophagus is a rectangular parallelepiped, formed of different +blocks of breccia well fitted together without mortar. The lid is _à dos +d'âne_[764], of several pieces of stone; at least so it appears at each +end, but in the middle and on the top I have been unable to detect the +divisions. All this shews that it is not a real sarcophagus, but only an +imitation or cenotaph erected on the spot to conceal something below. +(5) On lifting up the mats at the corners of the chamber and near the +tomb, I found that the pavement is laid upon the rock, which corresponds +in its nature with that exposed all about the upper part of Sion. I +carefully examined the north side and the base of the monument, in the +hope of discerning signs of an opening, but in vain. When I asked the +Sheikh for information on the point, he appeared surprised at my +question, and from that moment endeavoured to get me out of the place as +quickly as possible; and under the circumstances I had no choice but to +comply. + +I did not, however, believe that I had visited the Tomb of David, but +was convinced that there was below or on the north side of the chamber +containing the sarcophagus, a communication with the true tomb, which +must be excavated in the solid rock; and, like all the other very +ancient sepulchres, consist of many chambers, in which were sarcophagi, +differing in their arrangement from those at the Tombs of the Kings and +Judges, on the north of Jerusalem[765]. I accordingly determined to +descend into the vault, which I have already mentioned as having an +opening on the western side of the hill[766]. After I had descended a +steep sloping plot of land, I found some steps forming the commencement +of a staircase cut in the rock; which, however, is now almost covered +with soil, ashes, and bones. Below was a huge vault, which I perceived +to run under a large portion of the cemetery above; and so understood +how it was that they came upon it in excavating a burial-place in 1354. +It is now almost full of bones, which are thrown in whenever they are +found in digging graves. As I unfortunately made the examination in the +rainy season, it was not very successful; the water had soaked through +and run down into the interior, so that I was impeded by mud composed of +wet soil, ashes, and bones; and I do not know whether I should have been +able to extricate myself from the fetid quagmire, if I had not had two +men with me, and taken my usual precaution, when visiting an unexplored +place, of fastening a rope round my body. Consequently I was obliged to +wait for a better opportunity. At the same time I examined the ground in +the neighbourhood of the opening, and not only found the rock all round +it at a slight depth, but also ascertained that it had once been larger, +and had been reduced in size by masonry, so that it could be closed with +a stone. The rock, when uncovered, shewed traces of the iron tools with +which it had been wrought, and also exhibited the small holes made to +admit clamps of iron or lead to fasten down the stones that were laid +upon it. These marks have brought me to the conclusion, that this must +have been the entrance into the Tomb of the Jewish Kings, and that here +Herod erected his monument in order to render the place secure. Hence +the sarcophagus, which is called David's Tomb, is only a representation +of it, after the usual custom of the Mohammedans, who indeed have +another repetition of it in wood on the upper floor; which is placed +there to content the believers who come to pray, and saves the Sheikh +the trouble of conducting them down into the lower chamber. It may not +be out of place to observe here, that I made a report to Surraya Pasha, +that the principal causes of the constant fevers in Jerusalem were the +shallowness of the graves on Sion, which were so dug to avoid coming +upon this vault by going too deep; and the presence of this +charnel-house. At the same time I proposed a plan by which, at a small +expense, the sepulchres of Aceldama might be restored, and the remains +of the corpses removed to them; a change which would have produced the +best possible effect on the sanitary state of the city. The Pasha +understood this, but unfortunately, owing to the number of previous +formalities which were requisite, the execution of the design was almost +impossible. I must confess that the public good was not my only motive +on this occasion, as the opportunity it would have afforded me for +making researches, and excavating inside the cavern, would probably have +furnished me with most valuable information to aid in identifying this +place with the Tombs of the Jewish Kings. + +In the month of May in the same year I was able with much difficulty to +examine, to some extent, the above-named cavern: not indeed as +thoroughly as I could have wished, but as far as circumstances would +allow. I was obliged to remove a quantity of skulls, masses of bones, +and other materials, and this with the help of only one European +servant; as I was unable to find any other assistant, owing to the +disgusting nature of the labour. It was further impossible to get help +from the Arabs, who would not have aided me for any price that I could +have offered, and who would very likely have embroiled me with the +inhabitants of _Neby Daûd_. By little and little, on many days, I was +able to make a Plan of the place[767]; I do not claim for this very +strict accuracy as regards the measurements, but its shape and bearings +are to be trusted, up to the part where it narrows on the east. Although +I saw the beginning of the corridor on the east, I was unable to enter +it, as it was quite filled with rubbish, and I have only inferred its +junction with the chamber containing the sarcophagus which passes for +David's Tomb. I found over a large part of the cavern the marks of the +tools used in excavating it. At some places there appeared to be the +upper parts of doorways; these perhaps might be entrances into other +vaults; the mass of rubbish however made it impossible to determine +this. I also thought that the vaulting was supported by piers; but was +unable to satisfy myself on this point, as what I saw might have been +caused by a settlement of the ground above that had brought the roof +into contact with the rubbish accumulated inside, which was in such +quantities, that I could not without great labour have distinguished the +one from the other. As then I cannot conceive this great work undertaken +for any other than an important purpose, I believe that it is the +vestibule of the Tombs of the Jewish Kings; but of course to establish +this we must wait until the rubbish is cleared out of it. It is in the +fortress of Sion, the city wherein David dwelt, and no other place in +Jerusalem agrees so well with the _data_ of the Bible and Josephus, and +with tradition, as this position, which has in its favour every argument +derived from the configuration of the ground. I hope to be able to renew +my investigations here; but if unhappily I am prevented from carrying my +intention into effect, I recommend archæologists to devote themselves to +the subject; trusting that in that case they will find that I have +directed them to the real tombs of the Jewish Kings on Sion. + +Let us now consider the 'Coenaculum;' the name of which is derived +from the belief that it is the place where our Saviour ate the last +Paschal supper with His Apostles. The Bible[768] tells us no more than +that it was a large upper-room, but the tradition is of very great +antiquity. It asserts that here the Apostles met after the Resurrection, +when the Saviour shewed them His wounds; that here He ate before them, +and breathed on them that they might receive the Holy Ghost[769]; that +here Thomas was convinced[770], and Matthias elected an Apostle[771]; +that here the Holy Ghost descended on the day of Pentecost[772], and +the first converts were added to the Church by S. Peter[773]. A church +must have been erected on this spot at a very early period, for S. +Epiphanius[774] says, with reference to Hadrian's journey in Palestine: +"He found Jerusalem levelled with the ground, the Temple itself +destroyed and trodden under foot, save only a few houses, and a certain +small Christian church which had been built upon that spot on which the +disciples, after that the Saviour had ascended into heaven, assembled +together in the Coenaculum." We read in the Catechetical Lectures of +S. Cyril[775]: "The Holy Ghost, who spake in the Prophets, and who on +the day of Pentecost descended on the Apostles in the form of fiery +tongues, here in Jerusalem in the Upper Church of the Apostles." This +shews that the church was divided then, as it now is, into two floors. +It is not known who built it. Nicephorus Callistus[776], an author of +the fourteenth century, attributes it to S. Helena; but Eusebius does +not mention it, and the Bordeaux Pilgrim only says: "Continuing along +the same road up Mount Sion, you may see the place where was the house +of Caiaphas the priest; and to this time the column still remains where +they scourged Jesus." S. Jerome[777], in his Itinerary of Paula, writes +thus: "The column was shewn there, supporting the portico of a church, +stained with the Lord's blood, to which He is said to have been bound +and scourged. The place is pointed out where the Holy Ghost descended +upon one hundred and twenty believers." In the year 415, on Dec. 26th, +the remains of the Proto-martyr S. Stephen were transported to the +Apostles' Church, during the patriarchate of John[778]. Antoninus of +Piacenza, Arculf, Willibald, and Bernard the Wise, in the sixth, +seventh, eighth, and ninth centuries respectively, mention the basilica +on Sion[779]. Arculf describes its plan without details as a regular +parallelogram of considerable length. We do not know whether the church, +described by these authors, was the same as that spoken of by S. Cyril; +but it is very probable that, owing to the persecutions suffered by the +Christians, the fabric was destroyed and rebuilt more than once. At any +rate, by the end of the eleventh century it had entirely fallen to ruin, +as we find from the Gesta Francorum[780]. The Crusaders rebuilt it, and +though their church no longer exists, we possess an accurate description +of it by the authors of the twelfth century. I abbreviate this from the +work of M. de Vogüé[781], who has derived it from the anonymous writers +of the manuscripts of Vienna and of Paris, and from John of Würtzburg +and John Phocas. "The church was composed of two parts: the lower, +consisting of a nave and two aisles, with barrel-vaults, was +terminated, like most of the buildings of the period of the Crusades, by +three apses at the east. In the apse most to the north was an altar, +supposed to mark the place where the Virgin died.... That on the south +was supposed to indicate where Christ appeared to His disciples after +His Resurrection. In this lower church, sometimes called the crypt in +the middle ages, they say that Our Saviour washed the Apostles' feet. +The upper church had a groined roof, with a central dome. This was the +Coenaculum, properly so called, where tradition placed the scene of +the Last Supper in the nave, and of the descent of the Holy Ghost in the +principal apse. The two floors communicated one with another by means of +an inner staircase of 61 steps (this number, given by Phocas, is +evidently exaggerated), which opened from the ground-floor in the +southern apse. The interior of these two churches, in the time of the +Latin Kings, was covered with wall-paintings, representing the subjects +of the traditions attached to the spot." After giving a list of these, +M. de Vogüé goes on to say, that "on the left of the principal church +was a small one dedicated to S. Stephen, in remembrance of a very +ancient tradition, according to which the martyr's body was removed from +its first resting-place at Caphar Gamala to this place. A convent had +been built in the neighbourhood, occupied by a chapter of Augustinian +Canons, who had the care of the Sanctuaries under the direction of an +Abbot. The society bore the twofold name of S. Mary of Mount Sion and of +the Holy Ghost." M. de Vogüé then describes the seal of the convent, and +gives a list of the Abbots. + +The buildings around the Coenaculum were not destroyed at the entrance +of Saladin, A.D. 1187. Willibrand of Oldenburg, A.D. 1219, found them +inhabited by Syrians, who paid tribute to the conquerors; but in the +thirteenth century they were in ruins. In 1336, in consequence of the +treaty (A.D. 1333) concerning the restoration of the Holy Places to the +Friars Minor, between the Sultan of Egypt on one side, and Robert King +of Sicily and his wife Sancia on the other, it was agreed to +re-establish the church and monastery on Sion. After a heavy expenditure +this was done, and the Franciscans took up their quarters there; as is +proved by a bull of Clement V., dated at Avignon, November 21, 1342. +Queen Sancia erected a convent enclosing the Coenaculum on Sion, and +richly endowed it for the support of twelve monks and some lay brothers. +An idea of it may be obtained from the present buildings, allowing for +some modifications. Besides the church and the monks' cells, it included +a large hospital, founded A.D. 1354, by a Florentine lady, Sophia degli +Arcangeli. This was placed under the care of the Fathers by Pope +Innocent in the following year[782]. They were unable to enjoy the +advantages bestowed upon them, owing to the persecution of the +Mohammedans, who not only plundered them by their heavy exactions, but +also put them to death. Indeed, in 1368 all of them were massacred; in +1391, four out of the nine who had succeeded these martyrs; in 1432, +one, John of Calabria; in 1537, all of them were seized, and part +imprisoned in the Tower of the Pisans, while the rest were sent to +Damascus[783]. I have already observed, that, at this time, the Latins +being anxious to preserve certain articles, valuable both from their +sacred nature and intrinsic worth, entrusted them to the Armenians, who +afterwards refused to restore them. The possession of the Sanctuaries on +Sion was confirmed to the Franciscans by several Sultans of Egypt and +Constantinople; this, however, did not prevent their being driven from +the place in 1561; under the twofold pretext, that Sion was fortified, +and so might at any time aid the Christians in making themselves masters +of Jerusalem, and also that it was unbecoming that infidels should +possess the Tomb of David. The monks thereupon retired into a small +house, until they purchased from the Georgians the Convent of the +Column, as I have already mentioned[784]. The Mohammedan Santons +occupied their place; and those who live there at the present time, +according to an order of the Pasha, Governor of the city, countersigned +by the Effendis of his Council, allow the Fathers, or certain pilgrim +priests, to celebrate mass in the building; they also, for a small sum, +permit pilgrims to see the Franciscan Church[785], with the upper part +of the Tomb of David. This, however, probably only occupies a portion of +the earlier church. Like its predecessors, it is divided into two +floors; the lower of which is formed by the substructure of the ancient +building, and consists of two chambers, one of which has a vaulted roof +supported by two piers, and is called the Hall of the Washing the Feet; +the other (and smaller) is also vaulted, and bears the name of the Tomb +of David. The upper story is given on my Plan. The chamber on the east +above the Tomb of David is not always opened to the Christians; this is +shewn as the place of the Descent of the Holy Ghost: the other, on the +west, is the Coenaculum, a Gothic building in the style of the +fourteenth century, erected by the Franciscans. It is divided down the +middle by two granite columns, and half-columns project from the side +walls to correspond with them. I conclude this subject by observing, +that in the buildings on the south and on the west large pieces of +masonry of the time of the Crusades still remain; and that the stables +on the west are the work of Ibrahim Pasha, who, with his attendants, +occupied the whole of the Coenaculum. + +Outside the building of _Neby Daûd_, and a little to the north, is the +site of a house, where the Virgin Mary is said to have passed the last +years of her life. Some large stones, on one of which a cross is carved, +mark the spot, in which I have no great belief. Sanutus[786] thus +speaks of it: "Near this spot, a stone's throw to the south, is the +place where the blessed Virgin dwelt after her Son's Ascension into +heaven, and the cell wherein she departed this life." In the +neighbourhood was a chapel dedicated to S. John the Evangelist, which +was seen by Sanutus, who goes on to say, "There also is the Church of +the Blessed John the Evangelist, which was, as it is said, the first of +all the churches; in it this Apostle was wont to offer mass to that most +blessed Queen while he lived in this world." + +We have now only to visit the walled enclosure to the south of the Sion +Gate. This is a small Armenian convent, which is said to occupy the site +of the house of Caiaphas: the tradition dates from the fourth century. I +have already said that the Pilgrim of Bordeaux mentions it, without +however stating that a church stood there. We find in the writings of +Nicephorus Callistus[787], that S. Helena built a church there, and +dedicated it to S. Peter; but this is not confirmed by any one besides. +None of the authors, contemporary with or posterior to S. Helena, allude +to it; and we cannot suppose that this Sanctuary would be omitted in the +Itinerary of S. Paula, which names all the others that were then in +existence. It was unknown at the time of the Crusades, as it is not +recorded by Edrisi, who wrote A.D. 1151, nor by Phocas, in his journey +in Palestine, A.D. 1185. Marinus Sanutus, in the fourteenth century, is +the first writer who mentions it. He calls it the Church of S. Saviour; +the name it still bears[788]. Hence I infer that the church and the +convent adjoining were erected at the end of the thirteenth century, or +at the beginning of the fourteenth. Although the tradition concerning +the House of Caiaphas goes back as far as the fourth century, I believe +it would be difficult to maintain its correctness, as we have no _data_ +whatever from the Bible to assist us in fixing the position of the +High-priest's dwelling. The entrance is by a small door on the north, +near the north-west corner. The church is oblong in plan (50 feet long +by 25 wide), without any architectural features worthy of notice. The +pictures on the walls are ugly and grotesque. In the central altar at +the east end two large pieces of stone are exhibited, which are said to +have formed part of the mass that closed the door of the Sepulchre of +Christ. Their genuineness would be difficult to establish; but, be that +as it may, the Armenians ought to be ashamed of shewing them, as they +were entrusted to them by the Franciscans in 1570, at the time of the +war with Cyprus, and afterwards dishonourably appropriated. There is +neither history nor tradition to support the claims of these stones, and +the Latin Fathers suffer their loss with patience, since their thickness +would not correspond with the size mentioned by the Evangelist[789], +and the little that can be seen of them is enough to shew that they +cannot have belonged to a stone of the right shape. On the south of the +altar is a very small square-headed door leading into a narrow chamber, +in which two persons can scarcely stand. This is said to be the prison +where Jesus was kept during the remainder of the night after he was +brought to Caiaphas. The walls shew no signs of antiquity; the pavement +rests upon a mass of rubbish; the tradition is unfounded, and the place +perhaps was formerly only a closet. In the courts before the church they +point out the spot on which S. Peter stood when he denied his Master, +and where the cock crew! In the interior of the convent the Armenian +Patriarchs and Bishops are buried. I must not forget to observe that a +great number of stones are to be seen in the outer wall and on the +ground, which have been used in monuments; on them are some ancient +Armenian inscriptions. This is an easy way of employing tombstones, when +they lie too close on the ground of a cemetery. + +Before entering the city we descend the eastern slope of Sion by a +foot-path leading to Siloam, and arrive at a small cave, surrounded by +some ruins, which are the remains of the Church of S. Peter at the +Cock-crow, destroyed since the thirteenth century. Tradition reports +that S. Peter retired to this spot to lament his sin after denying his +Redeemer. The church was standing in the ninth century; for Bernard the +Wise writes: "Towards the east is a church in honour of S. Peter, on the +spot where he denied his Lord[790]." John of Würtzburg informs us that +it belonged to the Greeks in the twelfth century. We read in La Citez de +Jherusalem[791]: "There was a church called S. Peter at the Cock-crow. +In this church was a deep ditch, wherein S. Peter hid himself when he +had denied Jesus Christ, and there he heard the cock crow, and bewailed +his sin." We read also in Edrisi[792]: "From the Sion Gate the road +descends into a ravine called the Valley of Hell, at the end of which is +a church in honour of S. Peter." A few yards to the east of this is a +small Jewish cemetery, now abandoned. Turning back northward from this, +we reach the road which, passing along under the city-wall, leads to the +Sion Gate. + +On entering this we see by the side of the wall to the east some poor +dwellings, built on a level plot of ground, composed of stones and clay. +These are the abodes of the lepers of Jerusalem, where these unhappy +beings live until released by death from their misery. They are called +by the Arabs _Beiût el-Masakîm_ (Houses of the Unfortunate), and are +occupied by men, women, and children. Most of them are Mohammedans, but +there are some Christians among them. This leprosy is not white, like +that described in the Bible[793], but is the kind called Elephantiasis. +The skin of the afflicted persons assumes a violet or reddish-grey tint, +and tumours are formed in it, which turn into ulcers of the most +horrible appearance; little by little the extremities of the limbs drop +off, leaving only shapeless stumps behind; the roof of the palate +becomes inflamed and then ulcerates, so that the voice grows harsh, and +at last guttural; and the face and limbs are swollen. This terrible +calamity, which refuses to yield to the efforts of science, is not +contagious, but hereditary. The lepers are not, however, so poor as they +are usually supposed to be. We will not dwell further upon this +miserable sight, but will continue our observations in another chapter. + + +FOOTNOTES: + +[532] Plate XVII. + +[533] Plate XLIX. + +[534] Early Travels, Bohn's Ant. Lib. pp. 4, 19. + +[535] Joel iii. 2. + +[536] Joel iii. 12; Note I. + +[537] 2 Kings xxiii. 6. + +[538] Jer. xxvi. 23. + +[539] Adric. Theat. Terræ Sanctæ. De Vall. Jehosh. + +[540] Acts vii. 58. + +[541] Dr Robinson, Biblioth. Sac. III. p. 639. Williams' Holy City, II. +p. 432 (2nd Ed.). Les Églises, &c. pp. 332, 333. + +[542] Note II. + +[543] 2 Sam. xv. 23. + +[544] 1 Kings xv. 13. + +[545] 2 Chron. xxix. 16; xxx. 14. + +[546] S. John xviii. 1. + +[547] Some of these are now in the collection of the Rev. Churchill +Babington, B.D. Fellow of S. John's College, Cambridge, a distinguished +numismatist. + +[548] Plate L. + +[549] Plate LI. + +[550] Niceph. Hist. Eccl. VIII. 30; Note III. + +[551] Orat. II. De Assumpt. Quoted by Quaresmius, E. T. S. Lib. IV. Pereg. +7, c. 2, Vol. II. pp. 241, 242, ed. 1639. + +[552] Theophanes, Chron. ann. 443. + +[553] Note IV. + +[554] See Euthymius, Lib. III. ch. 40. + +[555] E. T. S. Lib. IV. Pereg. 7, c. 2, Vol. II. p. 242. + +[556] Ant. Piac. XVII. + +[557] Seb. Pauli, Codex Diplomaticus, S. Mil. ord. Jerusal. Said Ibn +Batrik, II. 212; Note V. + +[558] See Theophanes, Chron. ann. 683. + +[559] Early Travels, &c. Bohn's Ant. Lib. p. 19. + +[560] Ibid. p. 28. + +[561] Note VI. + +[562] Les Églises, &c. p. 308. + +[563] Ibid. p. 307. + +[564] Note VI. + +[565] Les Églises, &c. p. 307; Note VII. + +[566] Alb. Aquens. Lib. VII. c. 21; Lib. IX. c. 52. Gesta Dei, &c. Vol. +I. pp. 299, 344. + +[567] C. X. Pez. Thes. Anec. Nov. Tom. I. p. 523. + +[568] De Vogüé, Les Églises, &c. p. 309. + +[569] Cod. Dipl. Vol. I. p. 10. + +[570] Citez de Jherusalem. + +[571] Note VIII. + +[572] Liber Secretorum Fidelium Crucis, Lib. III. pars 14, c. 9, p. 256 +(ed. 1611). + +[573] Note IX. + +[574] Note X. + +[575] Plates L., LI. + +[576] Note XI. + +[577] Lib. XVIII. c. 32, Gesta Dei, &c. Tom. II. p. 953 (ed. 1611). + +[578] See Plate LI. (Plan). + +[579] Note XII. + +[580] Page 148. + +[581] Plate LI. + +[582] S. Matt. xxvi. 39; S. Luke xxii. 44. + +[583] S. Matt. xxvi. 36; S. Mark xiv. 32; S. John xviii. 1. + +[584] Liber de Situ et Nom. Loc. Heb. (Gethsemane). + +[585] Early Travels, &c. Bohn's Ant. Lib. p. 4. + +[586] Leo Allat. Sym., p. 57. + +[587] Quoted by M. de Vogüé, Les Églises, &c. p. 314. + +[588] Eluc. T. S. Lib. IV. pereg. 5, c. 9, Tom. II. p. 160. + +[589] Voyage nouveau de la T. S. 1679, I. III. c. 3. + +[590] Plate LII. + +[591] S. Luke xxi. 37; xxii. 29. + +[592] Jewish War, VI. 1, § 1. + +[593] Note XIII. + +[594] S. Matt. xxvi. 38, 40; S. Luke xxii. 45. + +[595] See his description of the city, Note XI, Ch. II. + +[596] Loc. Terræ Sanctæ Descriptio, Ch. XLIII. + +[597] See Plates LV., LX., which shew the Plan and Elevation. + +[598] 1 Kings xxii. 50. + +[599] Plate LVIII. + +[600] Guide D'Orient, p. 805. + +[601] Holy City, Vol. II. pp. 451, 452 (2nd Ed.). + +[602] See the elevation and details to Plates LX., LXI. + +[603] Mariti, p. 152. + +[604] Le Pieux Pélerin, p. 404. + +[605] 2 Sam. xviii. 17. + +[606] Ant. VII. 10, § 2. + +[607] 2 Sam. xviii. 6. + +[608] 2 Sam. xviii. 18. + +[609] 2 Kings xxv. 4. + +[610] Ant. VII. 10, § 3. + +[611] E. T. S. Lib. IV. pereg. 5, c. 13, Tom. II. p. 169. + +[612] Plate LX. + +[613] 1 Cor. xv. 7; S. Jerome, de vir. ill. c. 2, from the Gospel of the +Nazarenes; Quaresmius, E. T. S. Lib. IV. pereg. 7, c. 10. + +[614] Ap. Euseb. H. E. II. 23, § 12. + +[615] Plates LX., LXI. + +[616] 2 Chron. xxiv. 20, 21. + +[617] S. Matt. xxiii. 35. + +[618] 2 Kings xxi. 18, 26. + +[619] Narrative of a Journey round the Red Sea, &c. Vol. II. pp. 223-244 +(edited by Count E. de Warren). + +[620] Biblical Researches, Vol. I. p. 521 (First Ed.). + +[621] Chap. III. p. 94. + +[622] Isai. viii. 6. + +[623] Nehem. iii. 15. + +[624] S. John ix. 7. + +[625] Jewish War, II. 16, § 2; V. 4, §§ 1, 2; V. 9, § 4. + +[626] S. John vii. 37, 38. + +[627] Succah, v. + +[628] Jennings, Jewish Antiquities, Book 3, c. 6. + +[629] Comment in Is. Lib. III. c. 8. + +[630] Hist. Eccl. Book VIII. c. 30. + +[631] Itiner. Chap. XX. + +[632] De Perenni Cultu T. S. Lib. II. + +[633] Hist. Hieros. VI. 6. G. D. p. 276. + +[634] Fabri, I. 420. + +[635] Historia Francorum qui ceperunt Hierusalem. + +[636] See the chapter on the Waters. + +[637] Histor. de Hierosolymitano itinere. Duchesne, Hist. Franc. Script. +Vol. IV. + +[638] S. John ix. 7. + +[639] Jewish War, V. 4, § 2. See also p. 31. + +[640] See Origen, Comment. in Matt. Tom. X. c. 18, and Ep. ad Africanum, +c. 9, also Homil. in Isa. I. c. 5 (ed. 1740); also Tertull. de +Patientia, c. 14; and Jerome Comment. in Isaiam, Lib. XVI. c. 57 (ad +fin.). + +[641] Histoire de l'État présent de Jer. p. 206. + +[642] Ch. II. p. 26. + +[643] 2 Kings xxv. 4; Jer. xxxix. 4; lii. 7. + +[644] Plate XLVIII. + +[645] 2 Maccab. i. 19, 22. + +[646] 2 Maccab. i. 33-36. For Nephi the Greek text has Nephthaei. + +[647] Josh. xv. 7, 8; xviii. 16. + +[648] 2 Sam. xvii. 17. + +[649] 1 Kings i. 9. + +[650] See Chapter II. p. 21. + +[651] Descrip. T. S. Pez. Thes. Anec. Nov. Tom. I. pars 3, p. 509. + +[652] Plate LXI. + +[653] S. Luke xiii. 4. + +[654] Ch. II. p. 21; Plate LII. + +[655] S. Luke xix. 37-41. + +[656] S. Luke xix. 37. + +[657] Fetell. de Situ Jherusalem, 236. + +[658] Fabri, I. 387. + +[659] Acts i. 11. + +[660] Acts i. 9-11. + +[661] E. T. S. Lib. IV. pereg. 9, c. 11, Tom. II. p. 320. + +[662] Note XIV. + +[663] Acts i. 12. + +[664] S. Luke xxiv. 50, 51. + +[665] Histoire de l'État présent de Jer. p. 157. + +[666] Dan. xi. 45. + +[667] De Vita Christi, Pars II. c. lxxxii. + +[668] Rosh Hashanah, c. II. hal. 2, 3. + +[669] Hist. Eccl. Lib. IV. c. 5. Mentioned also by Socrates, Hist. Eccl. +Lib. II. c. 28, as seen at Antioch. + +[670] Jewish War, V. 2, §§ 3, 4. + +[671] Plate I. + +[672] Lament. i. 1. + +[673] Lament. i. 12. + +[674] Plate LIII. + +[675] Vita Const. III. 43. + +[676] Liber nom. loc. ex Actis 'Mons Oliveti.' + +[677] Jerome, Ibid. Cf. Epit. Paulæ. Euseb. Vita Const. III. 40. +Paulinus, De Cruce Christi. + +[678] Baron. Ann. Eccl. 616. + +[679] Adamn. de Loc. Sanct. Lib. I. c. 17. Quoted by Quaresm. E. T. S. +Lib. IV. pereg. 9, c. 6, Vol. II. p. 310. Abridged in Early Travels, +Bohn's Ant. Lib. p. 5, cf. p. 19. + +[680] James de Vitry, c. LVIII. Gesta Dei &c. Vol. II. p. 1078. + +[681] Citez de Jherusalem; Les Églises &c. p. 444. + +[682] Les Églises &c. p. 316. + +[683] The building is certainly not accurate: the range of variation of +the sides is rather more than M. de Vogüé represents it to be. + +[684] Very great want, they are all different. + +[685] None of the ancient wall remains; all that is there is common Arab +work, therefore I attach no weight to this argument. + +[686] Eluc. T. S. Lib. IV. pereg. 9, c. 8, Tom. II. p. 313. + +[687] Radulph. Coggesh. Chron. T. S. apud Martene et Durand. Tom. V. pp. +566, 567. + +[688] For details, see Plate LIII. + +[689] Itiner. in Symmik. Leo Allatius (p. 150, ed. 1653). + +[690] Plate LX. + +[691] Vita Const. Lib. III. c. 43. + +[692] Cf. Citez de Jherusalem, De Vogüé, p. 444. + +[693] Gesta Francorum expugnantium Hierosol. 25. + +[694] S. Matt. v. 1; vi. 9. + +[695] S. Luke xi. 1. + +[696] The Holy City, Vol. II. p. 446 (2nd Ed.). + +[697] Quoted by Quaresmius, Lib. II. pereg. 9, c. 1, Tom. II. p. 302. + +[698] S. Mark xiii. 3. + +[699] Plate LIV. + +[700] Voyage nouveau de la Terre Sainte, III. c. 4. + +[701] Matt. xxiii. 29. + +[702] Luke xi. 47. + +[703] Comment in c. xxi. p. 435, ed. 1685. + +[704] Comment in c. xxi. Evang. Matt. Lib. III. + +[705] Ep. CVIII. _Ad Eustochium Virginem_ (Vol. I. p. 837, Ed. Migue). + +[706] E. T. S. Lib. IV. pereg. 10, c. 11, Tom. II. pp. 333, 334; S. Matth. +xxi. 1, 2. + +[707] Epiph. adv. Hæret. Lib. I. Tom. III. Refut. 53 (p. 340, ed. 1622). + +[708] S. John xi. 1-40. + +[709] S. Matt. xxvi. 6-9; S. John xii. 3. + +[710] S. John xi. 18. + +[711] S. John xi. 19; xii. 1-3. + +[712] Plate LIV. + +[713] Mariti, c. XV. § 8. + +[714] Hist. Eccl. Lib. VIII. c. 30. + +[715] Jerome, Epitaph. Paulæ, Ep. CVIII. (_Ad Eustochium Virginem_). + +[716] Jerome, Onomastic. ad vocem Bethan., Ep. CVIII. (_Ad Eustochium +Virginem_). + +[717] Acta Sanct. ord. Bened. sæc. iii. p. 2. Early Travels, p. 6. +Bohn's Ant. Lib. + +[718] Itinerarium in Loc. S. (Acta Sanct. ord. Bened. sæc. iii. p. 2). +See also E. T. p. 28. + +[719] See Ch. V. page 146. + +[720] Cartul., p. 61. + +[721] Cartul., p. 27. + +[722] William of Tyre, Lib. XV. c. 26 (G. D. p. 887). + +[723] Cartul. H. S., p. 61 (A.D. 1144). + +[724] No. 20, Cod. Dipl. Tom. I. + +[725] S. Matt. xxi. 18, 19. + +[726] Josh. xv. 8; xviii. 16. + +[727] Note XV. + +[728] Isai. xxx. 33. + +[729] Jerome, Comment. in S. Matth. c. x. v. 28. + +[730] Jer. vii. 32; cf. xix. 6, 11. + +[731] Jewish War, V. 12, § 2. + +[732] Plate LX. (Fig. 6). + +[733] Plate XLVII. + +[734] Plate LX. fig. 8. Plate XLVII. + +[735] Jewish War, V. 12, § 2. + +[736] Plate LV. fig. 5. + +[737] Anton. Piac. XXV. + +[738] Universal Geography of Edrisi, Climate, III. § 5, Tom. I. p. 345, +Paris, A.D. 1836. + +[739] Acts i. 19. + +[740] S. Matth. xxvii. 7, 8. + +[741] Jer. xix. 11. + +[742] Hist. Eccl. Lib. VIII. c. 30. + +[743] La Citez de Jherusalem, De Vogüé, p. 442. + +[744] Ch. II. p. 41. + +[745] De Perenni Cultu Terræ Sanctæ, Lib. II. Quoted by Quaresm. E. T. S. +Lib. VI. pereg. 1, c. 3, Vol. II. p. 596. + +[746] 2 Sam. xi. 2. + +[747] Beersheba, E. V.; Gen. xxvi. 33; +Bêrsabee+ in LXX; Josh. xv. 28, +and afterwards. + +[748] Isai. xxii. 9. + +[749] La Citez de Jherusalem, De Vogüé, p. 442. + +[750] Plate XLV. + +[751] 2 Sam. v. 7, 9. + +[752] 1 Kings ii. 10. + +[753] Note XIV. + +[754] Nehem. iii. 15, 16. + +[755] Ant. XIII. 8, § 4. + +[756] Ant. XVI. 7, § 1. + +[757] Acts ii. 29. + +[758] Dio Cassius in Hadriani Vita. + +[759] Jerome, Epist. ad Marcellam. + +[760] The Travels of Rabbi Benjamin of Tudela. 'Early Travels in +Palestine,' Bohn's Ant. Lib. p. 85. + +[761] Pineda, de Rebus Salomonis, Lib. VIII. c. 3. + +[762] Les Saints Lieux, Tom. II. c. xxvi. p. 361, Paris, 1858. He should +have mentioned that it was in the company of the Duke of Brabant, +otherwise neither would the Pasha have troubled himself about the +matter, nor the Santon have allowed him to enter the court. + +[763] F. Fabri, Eigentliche Beschreybung der Hin und Widerfarth zu dem +heil. Land gen Jerusalem, Tom. I. p. 225, 1556. + +[764] Plate XLVI. + +[765] Plates LVI., LIX. + +[766] Plate XLVI. + +[767] Plate XLVI. + +[768] S. Mark xiv. 15; S. Luke xxii. 12. + +[769] S. Luke xxiv. 36, 39-43, 45; S. John xx. 19-22. + +[770] S. John xx. 26, 27. + +[771] Acts i. 26. + +[772] Acts ii. 1-4. + +[773] Acts ii. 14-41. + +[774] De Mensuris et Ponderibus, c. 14; Quaresm. E. T. S. Lib. IV. pereg. +4, c. 4, Tom. II. p. 122. + +[775] Catech. Lect. XVI. 'The Library of the Fathers,' Vol. II. p. 205. + +[776] Lib. VIII. c. 30. + +[777] Epitaphium Paulæ. + +[778] Le Quien, Oriens Christ. Vol. III. p. 162, col. 2. + +[779] Note XVII. + +[780] Gesta Francorum Expugn. Hieros. c. XXVI. G. D. p. 573. + +[781] Les Églises de la Terre Sainte, p. 324. + +[782] The bulls are given by Quaresmius, Elucidatio T. S. Lib. II., c. +18, Vol. I. pp. 404, 405. + +[783] So it is stated in the Chronicles preserved in the Convent of S. +Saviour at Jerusalem. + +[784] Page 160. + +[785] Plate XLVI. + +[786] Liber Secretorum fidelium Crucis, Lib. III. pars 14, c. 8, p. 255 +(ed. 1611). + +[787] Hist. Eccl. Lib. VIII. c. 30. + +[788] Liber Secretorum fidelium Crucis, Lib. III. pars 14, c. 8, p. 254. + +[789] S. Mark xvi. 3, 4. + +[790] Early Travels, p. 28. The author is at variance with the ordinary +tradition on this point. The denial must have taken place at the house +of Caiaphas. + +[791] Quoted in De Vogüé, Les Églises, &c. p. 442. + +[792] Geographie Univ. par. v. clim. 3, p. 444. + +[793] Lev. xiii. + + + + +CHAPTER VII. + + EXCURSIONS IN THE NEIGHBOURHOOD OF THE CITY ON THE NORTH AND + WEST--THE MONUMENT OF HELENA OF ADIABENE, AND THE CHURCH DEDICATED + TO S. STEPHEN--ROYAL CAVERNS--GROTTO OF JEREMIAH--HOUSE OF THE + VINE--TOMBS OF THE KINGS--SHEIKH JERRAH--ANCIENT SYNAGOGUE--TOMB OF + SIMON THE JUST--TOMBS AT THE HEAD OF THE KIDRON VALLEY--KIDRON + POOL--VARIOUS TOMBS ON THE NORTH-WEST--TOMBS OF THE JUDGES--SHEIKH + AYMAR--RUSSIAN BUILDINGS--VALLEY OF GIHON--BIRKET + MAMILLAH--MONUMENT OF HEROD, AND RUINS OF THE CHURCH OF S. + BABYLAS--GREEK CONVENT OF THE HOLY CROSS--PROPERTY OF THE + ARCHIMANDRITE NICOFERUS. + + +Let us return to the picturesque Damascus Gate[794], and begin our +examination from this point. In the first chapter[795] I mentioned that +there was a Cufic inscription under the archway on the west side; this +contains the Mohammedan confession of faith, namely, "There is no God +but God, and Mohammed is his Prophet." Outside the gate, on either hand, +is a mound, formed by the continual accumulation of rubbish and soil +which have been brought and cast down here for many centuries; the last +addition being on the building of the Austrian hospice in 1857. These +render it impossible to see the full extent of the ditch, which was made +in the reign of Agrippa to defend the city-walls[796]. Following the +road northward, some chiselled rocks are seen on the left hand, which I +have already[797] stated to be, in my opinion, the remains of the +monument of Helena of Adiabene. We must now consider the claims of this +place to be the scene of S. Stephen's martyrdom; since we saw[798] that +the present site, near S. Mary's church, was inadmissible. The +Bible[799] tells us no more than that the Saint was "cast out of the +city;" and as S. Paul witnessed the martyr's death, he may not +improbably have pointed out the place to the Christians. In the fourth +century this was said by tradition to be on the north of the city, as +we gather from a letter of the Priest Lucian, preserved by +Quaresmius[800]: "He was stoned outside the north gate, which leads to +Kedar." In the fifth century a magnificent church was erected here by +the Empress Eudoxia, in honour of S. Stephen. This must have been built +between the years A.D. 450 and A.D. 461, as she resided at Jerusalem +during that period, having retired there on the death of her husband, +Theodosius II., and died in 461; that is, in the fourth year of the +reign of Leo I., Emperor of the East[801]. She was buried in this +church[802]. From Evagrius[803] we also learn that "she built a church +in memory of S. Stephen, Proto-deacon and Proto-martyr, of remarkable +magnificence and beauty, which is not a stadium distant from Jerusalem." +This place is about a stadium from the Damascus Gate. Nicephorus +Callistus[804] also informs us that the church was the above distance +from the city, and was of great size and beauty. This church is also +celebrated for the synod which assembled there, A.D. 518, at the +instigation of S. Saba, to maintain the decisions of the Council of +Chalcedon, at which a great number of monks was present; and we learn +incidentally from the author of S. Saba's life[805], that the church was +"able to hold a very large multitude." Antoninus of Piacenza, in the +sixth century, calls the present Damascus gate the Gate of S. Stephen, +and expressly states that through it was the way to Cæsarea and +Diospolis, so that there can be no doubt of his meaning. This name was +retained until the walls of Jerusalem were rebuilt by Solyman I., A.D. +1536, when it was changed, for what reason history does not tell us; but +we may conjecture that the church had by this time disappeared, and the +tradition was misinterpreted by the Christians. The church built by +Eudoxia can scarcely have escaped destruction during the persecutions of +Chosroes II. in 614, and Hakem in 1010; but it was probably rebuilt on a +smaller scale, for we learn from Robert the Monk[806], an author of the +time of the first Crusade, who describes the details of the siege, that +"the Counts of Normandy and Flanders encamped on the north of the city, +near the church of S. Stephen the Proto-martyr, on the spot where he was +stoned by the Jews." Again, Sæwulf[807] informs us that "the stoning of +S. Stephen took place about two or three arbalist-shots without the +wall, to the north, where a very handsome church was built, which was +entirely destroyed by the Pagans." Again, we find the following allusion +in Albert of Aix[808]: "But Robert, Prince of the Normans, and the +British Count, pitched their tents near the walls, where is the oratory +of the Proto-martyr Stephen." Hence it is evident that up to the +eleventh century, the traditional site of the Saint's martyrdom was +always on the north of the city; and that the ruined church of Eudoxia +was replaced by an oratory, which was also destroyed by the Mohammedans +on the approach of the first Crusaders. The church was rebuilt in the +earlier part of the twelfth century under the Latin kingdom, for it is +marked on the Plan of the Brussels manuscript with this title, +'Monasterium S. Stephani[809],' and is by the side of the north gate, +there called 'Porta S. Stephani Septentrionalis.' It was served by the +monks of a convent, which, however, is not mentioned in any history; but +its seal has been published by Sebastian Pauli. Before its doors ran the +Royal road[810], along which all the pilgrims from beyond the sea +travelled to Jerusalem. On the other side of the road, on the left hand +going to the city, "was a great house in front of this church, which was +called the _asnerie_; there they were wont to keep the asses and beasts +of burden of the house of the Hospital, whence its name _asnerie_. The +Christians of Jerusalem destroyed this church of S. Stephen before they +were besieged, because it was near the walls. The _asnerie_ however was +not demolished, as it was used by the pilgrims who came to Jerusalem in +time of truce[811]." Indeed, on the east of the road leading to +Jerusalem, opposite to the rocks marking the site of the church of +Eudoxia, are some cisterns; and traces of walls are found when the +labourers are digging in the fields, the sole remains of the buildings +that once stood here. The Church of S. Stephen was, as we have said, +destroyed by the Crusaders, A.D. 1187, to prevent its covering the +advance of Saladin's troops towards the walls. Willibrand of +Oldenburg[812] saw its ruins in 1211, and must have occupied the +_asnerie_, for he speaks of "a certain house situated near the walls. At +this place S. Stephen was martyred, in whose honour our faithful, as +still appears, founded a church and archiepiscopate, where now the +Sultan's asses are kept ... with the materials of the church a dunghill +has been formed." The ruins of this church and _asnerie_ have +disappeared in the course of time; the tradition itself has been +transplanted to another locality, as we have seen, and would now pass +for correct, were it not for the historic documents which have preserved +for us the probable position of S. Stephen's martyrdom. + +Between the Church of S. Stephen and the north-west corner of the city, +near the bastions of the walls, was the men's lazaretto, with a church +dedicated to S. Lazarus. By the side of it was the small gate of S. +Ladro, where the Royal road from the north came to an end by joining +that which went from S. Stephen's Gate[813]. + +Going back from the place of S. Stephen's martyrdom towards the Damascus +Gate, we find on the left a road leading eastward; and on the right of +this is an aperture, under the city-walls, which stand on a high rock; +and close to the aperture a deep excavation. These are the Royal +Caverns, and opposite to them, on the north, is the so-called Grotto of +Jeremiah[814]. I have already mentioned[815], in speaking of the third +line of walls, that I consider these two spots, now separated, to have +been formerly united; and now, in giving a more minute account of them, +I trust to shew that I am right in my opinion, and that the first-named +place has been properly identified with the Royal Caverns of Josephus. +It is not unfrequently stated in Jerusalem, that Dr Barclay discovered +these great caves, which I call the Royal Caverns: and perhaps he was +the first European in this century to describe them, but they were not +unknown to the inhabitants of the country. They are called by the Arabs +_Megharet el-Kotton_ (the Cotton Grotto), and were known to +Mejir-ed-Din, who thus writes of them: "Opposite to and to the south of +the _Zahara_" (a Mohammedan cemetery situated above the Grotto of +Jeremiah), "and below the northern gate of the city, is a great oblong +excavation, called the Cotton Grotto, and some say that it even extends +below the _Sakharah_." The notion, indeed, was common in the country, +that from these caverns it was possible to penetrate into the _Haram +es-Sherîf_: so that the adherents of the government would not allow any +one to enter them. The Bedouins, however, and the Arabs of the country, +took possession of them during the insurrection, and threatened to blow +them up if their demands were not satisfied. I claim the merit of having +rendered the passage practicable, and contributed to prove that there is +no communication between them and the _Haram_. I have also made a +correct plan of them, and conducted many persons thither, acting as +their guide; among others, His Excellency Surraya Pasha, M. de Barrère, +Consul of France and M. Gérardy Saintine, who in his book 'Trois ans en +Judée' has entirely availed himself of my discoveries, which I shewed +him, without acknowledging his obligation to me for them, and for the +two Plans of ancient and modern Jerusalem annexed to his book, which +were furnished by me. + +Nothing can be more surprising than these caverns, which seem to have +been excavated by the generations of old, as a challenge to posterity. +Immense halls, with their roofs supported by piers of natural rock, +exhibit in their sides openings leading into long dark galleries, +terminating in other chambers of large dimensions. On the left hand is a +disordered heap of accumulated fragments of rock, a pile of enormous +limestone blocks, lying in confusion one on the other; the spaces +between which have been filled up by the soil falling down from above, +so that on one side it rises like a rugged hill, on another presents a +gentle slope; but any one who incautiously attempts to traverse it has +reason to repent of his undertaking. At the south end of the first +excavation is a kind of fountain, surrounded by stalactites of the +strangest shape, which have arranged themselves so as to form a sort of +lengthened dome. The water, which falls in drops from above into the +little basin, is not good to drink. It is brackish, and from my +investigations I have come to the conclusion that it is not supplied by +a spring, but filters through from the cisterns excavated in the rock +above: in fact, in the rainy season there is an abundant supply, but in +summer it is dried up. It becomes brackish in passing through the rock, +which contains many saline and ferruginous particles. Going eastward +from this fountain, we pass along a cliff on the right hand, while on +the left high white walls of rock shew the cavities from which the large +stones have been extracted. At last we arrive at the deepest part, where +is a chamber about 260 feet long, where we can examine in detail the +manner in which the ancients quarried the monolithic columns, the great +building stones, and large paving slabs. I think that the monolith in +the vaults of _el-Aksa_, in the inner chamber of the Gate of Huldah, was +taken from these caves; for here we find a place where a column of stone +still hangs down from the roof, like a great stalactite. On comparing +with this the measurements of the monolith, they were found to +correspond in width and height; and the conjecture is still further +confirmed by the colour and character of the stone. The process by which +the blocks were extracted can be examined in the side walls. The masses +were separated from the rock by vertical grooves nearly four inches +wide, the inner boundary of which is a quadrant of a circle. These I +believe to have been cut with a circular disk, worked with a handle, +which moved it backwards and forwards through a half-revolution. At the +present time the Arab masons use an instrument of the same kind in +making a groove in a wall. When the groove was made of a sufficient +depth to give a stone of the required thickness, they detached it with a +pick, or raised the hinder face which adhered to the rock; this explains +the great width of the vertical groove: consequently in the process of +quarrying the stone was cut smooth on three faces. I have frequently +measured the cavities from which blocks have been removed, and also the +stones themselves which have been left partially attached to the rock, +or which are lying on the ground, and found them correspond perfectly +with many large blocks built into the east side of the _Haram_ wall, +more especially in its lower parts. Moreover, the mineral character of +the stones is the same; so that I am fully persuaded that these caverns +were made by Solomon, when he built the Temple, and were afterward +enlarged by Herod for the same purpose, and by Agrippa for the new or +third lines of walls, which he was obliged to leave unfinished. The +stones quarried here well deserve the term applied to them by +Josephus[816], that they were 'exceeding white.' Before leaving these +caverns I should warn the traveller that he ought not to visit them +alone, relying simply on his own powers and his map for finding his way +out again, but should take a guide, or at least a companion, and leave +another trusty friend at the entrance. Of late years the place has +become a haunt of ill-disposed persons, who retire here, not to lie in +wait for travellers, but to celebrate their orgies; and therefore the +stranger may, if alone, be pelted, without knowing where his assailant +is. Besides, the road is not very safe in parts, and not easy to find by +the light of a single candle. In winter, during the rainy season, let no +one risk a journey in them; the falls of stone which happen at that time +are sometimes not only alarming, but even fatal. In 1857 a large rock +detached itself, and fell with a loud crash, while I was measuring at +the eastern end of the cavern. I felt far from comfortable until I found +that the way back was still open, and I speedily availed myself of it, +carrying out, with the help of my European servant, an Arab youth, whom +the noise had frightened out of his senses. The pure air outside is +refreshing, for the small opening which forms the entrance is +insufficient for proper ventilation, and the close dense atmosphere +within often causes faintness. This opening is only the upper part of +the ancient one; formerly the caverns were entered through a large gap, +which is now built up, and in a great measure buried in the soil. From +this place the blocks of stone were transported into the city through +the ancient North Gate, as I have already mentioned[817]. + +Let us now visit the Grotto of Jeremiah, where, according to tradition, +the Prophet composed the Book of Lamentations. At the first glance we +recognize it as the continuation of the caverns we have just quitted; +and noticing the horizontal strata of limestone, from which the great +blocks in the city-wall have been extracted, can readily conceive that +those huge masses, mentioned by Josephus[818], may have been quarried +here, although we cannot now find any traces of them. To enter this +grotto we must obtain permission of a dervish, the keeper of the place; +who, however, never refuses, as he not only hopes to receive a present, +which he applies to adorn his retreat, but also is a man of a kind and +courteous nature. + +On passing the entrance we find, on the right hand, a large rectangular +chamber, the walls of which at first sight appear to be entirely Arab +masonry; but a careful examination detects large blocks of Roman +workmanship, especially in the lower parts, and a piece of wall of the +date of S. Helena. I am confirmed in my opinion on this point by the +words of Nicephorus Callistus[819], who informs us that this Empress +built a church near the grotto; therefore it is not improbable that +these may be the remains of that edifice. To the east of the above +chamber is a little irregular court, on the north of which is a very +deep cistern excavated in the rock; and on the south is a cavern of +great size, which has been converted into a cistern. This is perhaps the +origin of the tradition that here was the dungeon in which the prophet +was placed[820]. The tradition is inadmissible, whatever system be +adopted for the line of the third wall; for in any case this place would +be outside the second wall, and therefore a palace and a prison[821] +would not occupy this position. Beneath the vaulting formed by the rock +is the tomb of a Mohammedan santon, and a court enclosed by a low wall, +in which the followers of the Prophet come to pray; where also the +good-natured dervish has sometimes allowed the parties of distinguished +travellers to lunch after a long excursion round the city-walls. The +interior of the grotto in every part affords unquestionable signs of its +having been a stone-quarry; for the cavities left by the blocks are +still visible, and the holes on which the workmen have been engaged. I +think therefore that this place was separated from the Royal +Caverns[822] in quarrying stone, and may, strictly speaking, be called a +part of them. Dr Schultz[823] has endeavoured to identify the grotto +with the monument of Alexander Jannæus, because of the statement in +Josephus[824], "that John and his party defended the tower Antonia, and +the northern cloister of the Temple, and fought the Romans before the +monuments of King Alexander." As these posts were held by John, after +Titus had taken the outer line of walls, this position is of course +inadmissible according to my theory; but putting that out of the +question, it seems to me very improbable that Alexander, whom we know to +have been honoured with a magnificent funeral[825], would have been +buried in a place like this; and after the most careful examination of +the interior, I have not been able to discover the slightest trace of +sepulchral chambers; nothing beyond the chiselled faces of the limestone +rock and heaps of rubbish. + +Quitting the grotto we mount above it to the Mohammedan cemetery, called +by the Arabs _Turbet ez-Zahara_, whence a view of the city is obtained; +which, though limited, will, I think, shew the correctness of the +position I assign to Bezetha. + +Proceeding hence towards the north-east corner of the city, we find the +Pilgrims' Pool, _Birket el-Hijah_, close to the Gate of Herod on the +east, as I have already remarked[826]. This reservoir was unquestionably +at first constructed to receive the waters of the narrow valley above, +which I call the North Valley; whence they were conducted by a +subterranean conduit across the city to the Pool of Bethesda. Its walls +are formed of ancient blocks, perhaps of the date of Herod, or even of +an earlier period; but have been greatly modified afterwards in the +construction of a vault (now in ruins) which covers the greater part of +it. The Christian tradition concerning this pool differs so much from +the Mohammedan, that I transcribe it, without however in any way +asserting its truth. It says that, when the Empress Helena arrived at +Jerusalem, she chose to enter it with all humility; and so without pomp, +clad in a mean dress and barefoot, she entered the Gate of Herod; and +that this circumstance gave the pool its name. From this point to the +north-east corner the city-wall rises but slightly above the general +level of the ground; consequently this is the weakest part of the +defences, although it is strengthened by a ditch. Here it was that +Godfrey of Bouillon scaled the wall and captured the city. + +North of the pool is a plateau, on which stands an ancient Arab house, +overshadowed by an old pine-tree, and surrounded by an olive-grove. This +is called _Kerm es-Sheikh_ (the farm or vineyard of the chief). The +Mohammedan authorities of the highest rank who come to the Holy City, +either as its governors or as pilgrims, are accustomed to pass the night +here before their entry, and prepare themselves (as they say) by prayer +to visit Jerusalem. There is a curious Mohammedan tradition attached to +the place which may interest the reader; it is as follows: "When the +potent and valorous Nebuchadnezzar, Sultan of Babylon, came to Jerusalem +by the Divine command to punish the Jews who had abandoned the laws +given them by God, he despoiled the Temple of all its valuables; +reserving for himself the throne of Solomon, with its two golden lions +which spoke by the power of magic, and distributing the rest of the +booty to the other Kings who had joined him in the expedition. The King +of Roum had the coat of Adam and the rod of Moses; the King of Antioch +received the throne of Belkis and the miraculous peacock, whose tail, +all studded with gems, formed a rich back to the throne; the King of +Andalusia had the Prophet's golden table. A smaller coffer of common +stone, containing the Law (_Torat_), lay in the middle of all these rich +prizes, and no one heeded it; though it was the most precious of all +treasures. It was consequently abandoned, and disappeared in the +confusion that reigned during the sack of the city. Forty years +afterwards God determined to re-establish the children of Israel in +their old fatherland, and raised up the Prophet Euzer (Ezra); who, +destined by Heaven for a glorious mission, had spent his youth in +prayers and meditation, despising human knowledge in order to devote +himself to the contemplation of the Eternal. He had lived in one of the +grottoes that surround the Holy City[827]; but now came forth from his +retreat, and went among the children of Israel to shew them how they +ought to rebuild the Temple, and again worship God befittingly, +according to the ancient rites. But the people, having little faith in +the Prophet's mission, declared that they would not submit to the laws, +but would rather leave off rebuilding the Temple and emigrate to another +country, if the book were not produced in which Moses had written the +Law given to him by God on Mount Sinai. This book, as we have seen, had +disappeared, and all endeavours to discover it were vain. In this +difficulty Euzer with earnest prayers entreated God to interfere, and +hinder the people from persisting in their blindness. He was seated in a +vineyard, on the spot where the pine-tree now stands, regarding with +sorrow the ruins of the Temple, around which the tumultuous populace was +assembled. Suddenly a voice from heaven commanded him to write; and +though he had never before taken a pen in his hand, he obeyed at once: +From the hour of mid-day prayer to the same time on the morrow, without +eating or washing, he wrote down all that the heavenly voice dictated; +and stopped not for the darkness of night, for a supernatural light +illumined his spirit, and an Angel guided his hand. All the Jews beheld +with amazement this manifestation of the Divine Power; but when the +Prophet had finished his miraculous writing, the Priests, jealous of the +special favour shewn to him, asserted that the new book was an invention +of the devil, and did not in any respect resemble the former one. Euzer +again betook himself to prayer, and, yielding to a sudden inspiration, +directed his steps to the fountain of Siloam, followed by all the +people. When he arrived before it he raised his hands to heaven, and +offered up a prayer to the Almighty, while the multitude knelt around. +Suddenly a square stone rose above the surface of the water, and glided +along as if supported by an invisible hand; in which the Priests +recognized with terror the long-missing sacred coffer. Euzer received it +reverently, and opened it with his own hands: the _Torat_ of Moses +sprang out as though endowed with life; and the new copy, quitting the +Prophet's bosom, took its place. All doubt was now at an end; +nevertheless the holy man bade the Priests compare the two copies. They, +despite of their confusion, did so; and, after a long examination, +lifted up their voices and proclaimed that the two books did not differ +by so much as a word or an accent. After they had rendered this homage +to truth, they were struck with a life-long blindness, as a punishment +for their former crimes." Though the whole of this story is but an +Oriental fantasy, it is curious for its mention of the Law, and the +circumstances and persons it records. + +On the north, a few yards from the _Kerm es-Sheikh_, is an old +Mohammedan cemetery, in which are some tombstones with ancient dates; +none, however, earlier than the time of Saladin. + +Going on northward over cultivated land planted with olives, we arrive +at the Tombs of the Kings. I may observe, that during all this walk +nothing is seen but a reddish clayey soil with a rich vegetation, or +bare rocks without any marks of chiselling; nor are there traces of +walls nor any dressed stones; all which proves, in my opinion, that this +ground never formed part of the city; which must in that case, have had +its houses and walls built of shapeless fragments and clay, of which +there is no lack. + +To visit the Tombs of the Kings[828], called by the Arabs _Kubur +el-Maluk_, we descend a slope, from west to east, which originally was a +staircase with wide steps hewn in the rock; but its form has been +completely hidden by the quantity of soil mixed with fragments of stone, +which have been accumulated by the rain, the wind, and the hand of man. +However, I ascertained that it once existed by an excavation at the top +of the slope on the west, where I discovered three steps. At the lower +end is an aperture of irregular shape, formed in the rock, through which +I entered into a cave, after much trouble in clearing away the rubbish +that blocked it up, and was able to determine, notwithstanding the +accumulation of earth within, that it had never contained sepulchral +chambers, but had been a cistern, large though not deep. Towards the +eastern end of the wall, on the left hand as we descend, is a +round-headed doorway hewn out of the rock, and ornamented with a small +incised fillet. It is buried up to the spring of the arch, so that it is +necessary to stoop in order to enter it. I began to make an excavation +to examine its full height, but the large stones which I found below the +surface would have rendered the completion of the undertaking so +expensive that I abandoned it. However, I uncovered the door to a height +of 8-1/2 feet including the arch. It leads into a rectangular court, +open to the air, and surrounded by vertical walls hewn in the rock, as +is the floor, which is buried under rubbish formed of the earth brought +down by the rains from the fields above, and broken stones thrown in by +the Arabs; who, barbarians as they are, exhibit the most provoking +indifference to the preservation of ancient monuments, and view with a +jealous eye everything that interests visitors, often mutilating what +they cannot entirely destroy. + +In the west wall of this court a vestibule is excavated with remarkable +skill, the roof of which was formerly supported by two columns, also +hewn out of the rock: these have now disappeared, owing to the effects +of individual Vandalism, and the injuries of the earthquake in 1837. M. +de Saulcy[829] has given the following excellent description of this +monument: "Above the porch, on the face of the rock itself, runs a long +frieze, carved with exquisite taste and delicacy. The centre of the +frieze is occupied by a bunch of grapes, an emblem of the promised land, +and the habitual type of the Asmonæan coinage. To the right and left of +this bunch are placed symmetrically a triple palm, carved with the +greatest elegance, a crown and triglyphs, alternating with pateræ, or +round shields, three times repeated[830]. Below this runs a rich garland +of foliage and fruit, falling down at right angles on each side of the +opening of the porch. The left-hand portion of this garland has been +much more injured by time than that on the right. Above the line of the +triglyphs a fine cornice begins, formed of elegant mouldings, +unfortunately much damaged, and rising up to the top of the rock, that +is to say, nearly to the level of the surrounding country." The +left-hand portion of this cornice is almost destroyed, not only by the +Arabs, but also by the Americans; among whom a certain Mr Jones has +especially distinguished himself by breaking off all the ornaments that +could be carried away. Beyrout and Jaffa have been the chief centres of +his destructive industry, so that he has destroyed the few monuments of +Phoenicia and of Palestine that remained in their original positions. +Hammer in hand, and dead to every sense of artistic beauty, he chops off +fragments from the inscriptions of Sesostris, from the columns of +Baalbek, and from the monuments of Jerusalem. The Tombs of the Kings +have suffered more at his hands than from all the hostile invasions that +have devastated Palestine. + +On descending into the vestibule, we see in its south wall a small low +door, which can only be passed by creeping on the ground. Here, though +the result of my observations[831] will be found to differ from those of +M. de Saulcy, I take this opportunity of expressing my respect for him, +as one of the first persons to investigate with technical precision the +monuments of Palestine. We come, then, to the entrance of the sepulchral +chambers, by descending six steps hewn in the rock, which start from a +circular hollow about two feet deeper than the general level of the +floor of the vestibule, in which, no doubt, the funeral ceremonies were +completed. I removed all the stones from this place in order to be able +to give an exact account of it. On the left-hand side of the door in a +kind of narrow gutter, which joins the steps again by a course of three +sides of an oblong, is a large stone of an ellipsoidal form, the outline +near the extremities of the shorter axis being flat instead of curved. +On the right hand is a hollow in the wall, into which one of the apses +of this stone was inserted. This arrangement enables us to form an +accurate idea of the manner in which the Tomb of Christ was closed. The +stone now rests with one of its apses on the ground, so that its longer +axis is perpendicular to the level of the floor. The upper segment of +the stone corresponds with the cavity in the rock on the right hand; and +the square, formed by the flattened edges of the stone and two lines +joining their extremities, is larger than the doorway by rather more +than an inch each way. It is therefore evident that it was not necessary +to roll this stone, but simply to lower it from left to right, so as to +turn the axes through a right angle and bring the shorter axis +perpendicular to the ground; when the apse fitted into the +above-mentioned cavity, and the stone, resting upon the lowest step, +effectually closed the doorway. The means employed to raise and lower +this stone was no doubt a chain, passing over two pulleys, with +vertical axes, which a person drew towards himself to raise the stone +from its place. The two right-angled elbows in the above-mentioned +channel were to apply the force to the chain more conveniently. The +channel in which the stone lies was covered by a long slab, and we can +still see the points on which this rested. + +This is not the only way in which the aperture was closed, for, after +passing this, we see the jambs which must have supported another stone +door, moving on two pivots, the holes for which still remain above and +below. When it was hung it must have yielded to the slightest push from +without. Through this we enter a square antechamber, in which are three +doors, one in the middle of the western wall, and the other two in the +southern, one near each corner. Entering the western door, we come to a +room with three smaller chambers opening out of the middle of each wall, +each of which contains three sepulchral niches[832], consisting of a +stone bier or slab under an arch; these three chambers are flanked on +each side by casemate vaults, each having a channel cut in the rock in +the middle of the floor; to each of which, with one exception, a small +recess is attached to receive articles which had been valued by the +deceased. Out of the central room a narrow sloping gallery in the north +wall leads into a lower chamber, with a sepulchral niche in the west +wall, and two steps against the north, the lower of which is larger than +the upper. On one of these lay the sarcophagus[833], which M. de Saulcy +has deposited in the Museum of the Louvre at Paris; a similar one, +broken in pieces, was found near. He considers the former to be the +sarcophagus of David; but with this opinion I am unable to agree. Here +there are places for three corpses. Returning into the antechamber we +enter the door on the south-east, and find ourselves in a room with the +openings of three casemate vaults in the south wall, and three in the +east; two of these are provided with channels, and one with the recess +in its wall; the other four are narrower than the rest; which have been +completely finished off by their excavators, as is proved by their +correspondence one with another in length, breadth, and height, by the +regularity of their angles, and by the jambs supporting the doors which +closed them. M. de Saulcy thinks that the latter were never finished, +perhaps because they are not so wide as the others, and have no channel +in the floor; but, in my opinion, this was only made to catch the +moisture that dripped from the corpse during putrefaction, and by +draining it off to allow the body to become dry more rapidly. Therefore +I consider that in the narrower vaults bodies which had been previously +dried up were placed. Let us now return again into the antechamber and +visit the room on the west of that just described. In the south wall of +this are three finished casemate vaults, and the same number in the +west, five of which have the channel, while the sixth belongs to the +narrower class already mentioned. Two of the five have also the attached +recess. In the north wall is a small door leading by a narrow descending +passage into a small chamber containing three sepulchral niches. Thus +there are altogether thirty-three biers, including among these the two +steps on which the sarcophagi were found. Round each of the three rooms +communicating with the vaults runs a small foot-path, raised above the +general level of the floor, so that a kind of basin is formed at the +bottom of the chamber. Into this I suppose the moisture escaping from +the bodies during putrefaction flowed; perhaps there were holes in the +sides to admit water, or allow of the escape of fluids; but this I could +not ascertain, as the floor was covered with rubbish. Each chamber was +closed by a stone door, which worked on pivots fixed in two holes. At +the present time the doors lie on the ground broken to pieces, and +though every one must admire their workmanship, no one has attempted to +preserve them from total ruin by conveying them away to some European +museum. Many authors have endeavoured to explain how they were +made[834]; but I think they were brought from some other place, when +completed, and then set up. I am led to this conclusion by observing +that they are of a different kind of stone to that seen in the walls of +the chambers; that is, of a more compact limestone without veins. All +the workmanship in the excavation is admirable, and the angles are +formed with the greatest accuracy. Chisels, hooks, and the revolving +cutters, appear to have been the instruments used. There have been many +controversies about the origin and use of these tombs: some consider +them to have been the monument of Helena of Adiabene; but in that case +it would be difficult to explain for what purpose the thirty-three +receptacles were made, as Josephus says that she and her son alone were +buried there. M. de Saulcy endeavours to prove them to be the Tombs of +the Kings; but I have already shewn[835] that this is contrary to the +Bible, Josephus, and tradition. From the Books of Maccabees and +Josephus, we are enabled to determine the Tombs of many Asmonæan +princes. With regard to the family of Herod, we know that Herod the +Ascalonite was buried in Herodium; his sons, Alexander, Aristobulus, and +others, in Alexandrium near to Shiloh; Agrippa in the valley of Gihon; +Antipas died in Gaul; consequently none of these can lie here. We know +that when Aristobulus was poisoned by the partizans of Pompeius, his +body was preserved in honey, and sent to Jerusalem by Antonius[836]. He +may therefore be one of those who were buried in these tombs, in which +other members of the royal family, especially women and children, may +have been interred. The monument being of the Doric order does not allow +us to assign it to an earlier period. The Jews visit these tombs with +reverence, and the Arabs exact from them a payment on entrance, to which +they patiently submit. They do not, however, consider these to be the +burial-places of their first Kings, but of the last; so that here +tradition agrees with the architectural evidence furnished by the +monument. + +About a hundred yards from the Tombs of the Kings, to the south-west, in +a field planted with olives, is a sepulchre, excavated vertically in the +rock[837]. It is almost the only example of its kind in the open country +in Palestine, and is the more remarkable because the Tombs of the +Patriarchs in the cave of Machpelah at Hebron, that of Rachel near +Bethlehem Ephrata, and of Samuel at Ramah (_Neby-Samwîl_) are of the +same kind. Round the edge of the oblong grave runs a step, into which a +stone is fitted so as to close the hole firmly, and on this was placed a +sarcophagus. This I have ascertained by a careful examination of those +at Ephrata and Ramah. + +Hence we return to the road running to the north, and, after passing the +Tombs of the Kings, find on the left an Arab building called _Sheikh +Jerrah_; a place in much veneration among the Mohammedans, especially +those of the country; since it contains the tomb of a santon, who, as +they believe, has the power of granting them prosperous expeditions, +abundant harvests, and good luck, especially with their fowls and eggs; +of which articles a small tribute is paid to a live dervish, who acts as +go-between for them in their petitions to the dead santon. + +Keeping along the road to the right leading to the open country on the +north-east, we come to a spot on the southern bank of the Kidron Valley, +where there are signs of excavations, if not of tombs. One of these is +remarkable for its large dimensions; it is entirely excavated with the +chisel, and shews some trace of a gallery hewn out of the solid rock in +its upper part. This is _Jadagat el-Ahel_, which I have already +mentioned[838]. All the Jews assert that during the persecutions their +race underwent, in the times of Hadrian and of the Byzantine emperors, +this place was used as a synagogue by those, who, despising the perils +of the journey, came from far that they might behold their ancient +capital, if only from a distance. I have already mentioned the +explanation of the name; but another tradition is current among the more +ignorant and prejudiced Jews, which is given by Saintine[839]: "When +Titus was besieging Jerusalem, and had completely blockaded the town +with his legions, in the month _Bûl_ (November) provisions began to fail +the inhabitants. Then universal misery prevailed in the city, and the +famine slew more than the Romans. In this extremity, even the women and +children were killed to nourish the combatants; but these sufferings, +terrible as they were, did not appease the wrath of Heaven, and the city +was taken and sacked with every atrocity of war. At this time there +lived at Jerusalem a very wealthy Jew, who had been educated at Rome, +and for this reason was allowed to retain his riches. But what good were +they now to him? His wife and boys had been sacrificed to the horrible +cravings of hunger. This fearful scene was ever present to his mind, and +banished repose. He could only find one solace: he determined to give a +portion of his property to his wretched fellow-citizens; and further, he +made a vow to distribute corn, meat, and wine, among them at this place, +every year at the feast of Purim; so that they might be able to share in +the general joy, and celebrate the festival in a proper manner. So sped +the years; the evils of the war were beginning to be less felt, when the +new generation, seduced by a false Messiah named Cosiba, again +endeavoured to shake off the Roman yoke. The aged man still remembered +too well the miseries of the former siege; he implored his brethren to +abandon their fatal determination, relating to them what he had seen and +suffered; but his efforts were fruitless. At length it was revealed to +him from heaven that soon the city would again be destroyed by the +armies of Hadrian. For the last time he tried to induce the rebels to +submit, but in vain; then, preferring to die rather than witness the +misfortunes of his country, he prayed to God to remove him from the +earth; the roof of the cavern fell in, and buried him in its ruins under +the heap which still lies before its mouth. Still however, every year, +at the feast of Purim, the dead man takes a piece of money from his +hidden treasures, and places it on the rock in order to continue the +'alms of food' to the poor." Before 1857 there was an isolated mass of +rock in the middle of this monument, to which the Rabbins and a great +number of people came on their feast of Pentecost to pray and read the +Pentateuch, but it has now disappeared, because, in building the +Austrian hospice, this place was used as a stone quarry, and greatly +mutilated. It is to be hoped that what remains will not be destroyed by +a repetition of this vandalism, when another work of charity is executed +for a European nation. + +On ascending the Kidron Valley we find, on its northern bank, a place, +commonly called the Tomb of Simon the Just. A few years ago a +Mohammedan, seeing that it was frequented by the Jews, affixed a door to +it, expecting that he would be able to extract money from those who +wished to visit it. He has not been disappointed in his hopes, and reaps +large gains. Whether the name is rightly given, I do not know; but it is +not contrary to any tradition. The interior is not remarkable; only +there is a small cistern, well constructed, on the side of the casemate +vault. The Jews visit this spot for prayer at all seasons, but +especially when rain is needed for the country, after it has been +parched during nine months by a blazing sun. + +Further up the valley, after crossing the road to Samaria, we find, +still on the northern side, an ancient tomb[840], the exterior of which +is completely mutilated. In the front court is a fragment of the western +end of a wall, hewn out of the solid rock; all the rest of it has been +destroyed. In the piece which remains we find a conduit and small basin; +these clearly prove that water must have been supplied from some higher +ground on the north; but I have not been able to discover whence it +came. Against the north wall is a heap of soil, nearly covering up an +aperture; through the part still open, though overgrown with creepers, +it is possible to crawl into the interior[841]. Here we find a +rectangular vestibule which evidently has been converted into a cistern, +as its walls have been covered with strong cement, and a hole made in +the roof, through which soil and broken stones are brought down from the +hill-side above, in the rainy season. A small door in the middle of the +north wall leads into an antechamber in good preservation, in the east +wall of which is the passage into a chamber with eight biers, one of +them being a sepulchral niche, and the rest casemate vaults, without +channels, but sloping slightly downwards towards the floor of the +chamber, round which runs a kind of footpath, above the general level of +the floor, as in the Tombs of the Kings. At the end of one of these +vaults is the small recess. As the dimensions and finish of these +correspond with those of the small vaults in the above-named tombs, they +would be considered unfinished by M. de Saulcy. Returning into the +antechamber, we find in its western wall a small door leading into a +single casemate vault, which is much larger than any other of its kind +in the neighbourhood of Jerusalem. This monument does not bear any +special name, but must have belonged to a wealthy family, because, +although it is not so large as the other great tombs, its execution is +not inferior to theirs. + +Descending from this point to the bed of the Kidron Valley, we find a +nearly square pool. Though this is now almost filled with earth, yet in +the rainy season the waters flow into it from the slopes above, and form +a sort of little lake, which is then the source, so to say, of the +Kidron. I have investigated carefully the ground above, endeavouring to +discover some proof of the existence of a spring, but in vain. By +excavating I found that the depth of the Pool was fifteen feet. + +From this position we ascend in a north-westerly direction, and then +turn southward towards an ash-coloured mound. All along our course we +observe numbers of ruined and broken tombs, and can readily comprehend +the account given by Josephus[842] of the levelling executed by Titus' +army, between Scopus and the city. The small mound mentioned above has +been examined by Liebig, who considers it to be composed of the ashes of +bones and animal remains. This might be true of the specimen submitted +to him, but I am of opinion that it chiefly consists of ashes from the +soap-works of Jerusalem, mingled with soil and broken stones, with bones +of dogs and other carrion, that have been cast out there. I have arrived +at this conclusion, after making large excavations in the heap, and +availing myself of its materials to mix with lime in making a strong +cement, which I used in building and repairing terrace-roofs, and in +conduits and cisterns. The inhabitants of Jerusalem, and the proprietors +of the soap-works themselves, have assured me that the greater part of +this deposit was formed during the time of Ibrahim Pasha, by whose +orders the refuse of their manufactories was conveyed outside the city. + +By following the road, which leads in a north-westerly direction to +Gibeon, we find on the left-hand side, at a distance of about two +hundred yards from the above mound, a tomb which differs in form from +all those already described. It has an antechamber, and from it three +doors lead into three small chambers, in which there are no biers. At +the first glance I was inclined to consider it as an incomplete +work, but from the perfect execution of its interior and its +frontispiece[843], I came to a different conclusion after I had had many +opportunities of examining both finished and unfinished sepulchres. + +Keeping along the road, we see before reaching the Tombs of the Judges, +numbers of tombs dispersed about the ground on our right hand, some +partly destroyed, some converted into cisterns, and others still +uninjured. All this land was a large field of the dead, where the +ancient Jews excavated sepulchres suitable to their wealth and station. +One among them is remarkable as giving us a correct idea of that in +which our Lord was laid; for it consists of an antechamber, and a burial +chamber, in which is a single niche to receive a corpse, on the right +hand of the entrance[844]. A few yards further on, we come, after +turning to the right, to the Tombs of the Judges[845], called by the +Arabs _Kubur el-Godka_. There does not appear to be any reason for the +name. Eight of the fifteen Judges who ruled the people between the death +of Joshua and the accession of Saul were certainly buried elsewhere: and +it is far more likely that the rest would sleep with their fathers among +their own tribes, after the usual custom of the Israelites. It seems to +me much more probable that certain members of the Sanhedrim were buried +here, according to the traditional belief of the Jews now in Jerusalem, +who visit this spot from no other motive than curiosity. The exterior of +the vestibule is decorated with a frontispiece resembling that in the +Tomb of Jehoshaphat, consisting of a cornice and pediment, the tympanum +of which is richly carved with palm-leaves and foliage, with three +acroteria, perhaps intended for funeral emblems (torches), one on the +summit (effaced), and the other two at each end. Under the cornice is a +row of small modillons. Beneath the cornice, and on each side of the +opening, runs an ornamental group of mouldings. A low narrow door +similarly decorated is placed in the middle of the vestibule, and gives +admission to the sepulchral chambers, six in number, and containing +altogether sixty-three biers. Sixty of these are narrow casemate vaults, +of the class which M. de Saulcy considers as incomplete receptacles, and +three are sepulchral niches. The execution displayed in these tombs is +not inferior to that at the Tombs of the Kings, nor do they yield to +them in elegance or arrangement, especially in the interior. At the +south-west corner of the first chamber is a narrow staircase, which I +found blocked up with enormous stones, fitted together in order to close +the entrance. After removing them with no small trouble I understood the +reason why they were so placed. In the entrance below lay a corpse, not +yet reduced to a skeleton; the head and right hand of which had been +severed from the body; signs of a cruel vengeance, of which I discovered +other instances in my researches in the country. This unfinished +sepulchral chamber fully supplies us with the means of studying the +construction of these receptacles of the dead. In it are the beginnings +of nine casemate vaults, and the instruments used have evidently been +the chisel and the revolving cutter which I have already described[846]. +The limestone from which the whole of the monument is hewn resembles in +quality that at the Tombs of the Kings; but it is of a yellowish colour +veined with red, and takes a polish like marble. It is easily quarried +at first, but becomes hard when exposed to the atmosphere. + +Returning from the Tombs of the Judges, by the field-path southward, we +reach the road to the village of Lifta, which we follow westward, in +order to visit the little Mohammedan mosque, wherein repose the ashes of +a santon called Sheikh Aymar, who fell in battle against the Christians. +The place is not worth a visit for the sake of its architecture, but +there is a curious legend connected with it. Over the entrance-gate is a +large architrave of finely polished red granite. The story is, that an +Arab devoted to the saint found this block in some distant country, and +was enabled to bear it on his back to ornament the tomb of his patron, +although from its natural weight eight men at least would have been +required to move it. They say also that Ibrahim Pasha, struck with the +beauty of the stone, tried to take it away, but the invisible hand of +the saint kept it fixed in the wall; so that the Pasha himself became +his devotee. Returning towards the city, we can visit the buildings +which Russia has erected at great cost in a short time, for the use of +the mission of its Church at Jerusalem, and to receive pilgrims who +visit the Holy Places. I have already spoken of them[847], and the +description of the Plan[848] will explain their arrangements. Though +Russia began her work the last, she will in a short time surpass all the +other religious communities. It was also upon this spot, and as far as +up to the convent of S. Saviour, that Sennacherib encamped his troops. +Titus at a later period fixed his head-quarters here, when he was +preparing to attack the third line of walls; here also he reviewed his +army, in the hope that the sight of his power and resources might +terrify the Jews into submission. As the troops would extend from the +north-west angle of the present wall towards the east, the citizens +would be able to see them very well[849]. The Crusaders also occupied +the ground belonging to Russia, and all their positions may be seen at a +glance from here. Godfrey of Bouillon attacked the north-east corner of +the wall; Robert Duke of Normandy the part by the Grotto of Jeremiah; +Robert Count of Flanders, that opposite to the rock where I place the +tomb of Helena of Adiabene; Tancred from this position stormed the +castle of Goliath (_Kâsr Jalûd_), the tower Psephinus in my opinion; +Raymond Count of Toulouse pitched his camp on the west, where the small +Greek convent of S. George now stands, and directed part of his troops, +commanded by the Count of S. Gilles, against Sion: these, after many +valiant deeds, gained the south wall, above the present Christian +cemetery. + +We now descend into the Valley of Gihon, to visit the Pool of Mamillah +and the surrounding Mohammedan cemetery; but before reaching it we +observe a large and level boulevard leading to the city. I proposed to +Surraya Pasha to make this in order to give a promenade to the +inhabitants; and though the plan was not carried out as I desired, still +I think that I have done a service to the citizens in giving them one +good road for walking, instead of stony paths or rugged tracks on the +hill-sides. Entering the cemetery, from the western end of this +promenade, we come to the Pool of Mamillah, which I identify with the +'Upper Pool[850].' From this started the deep canal by which Hezekiah +brought the waters of Gihon within the western part of the city, when he +closed up the fountains on the approach of Sennacherib's army. The +subterranean conduit still exists, though it is now exposed and +devastated in places, and is used to convey the rain-water from the +Upper Pool to that of Amygdalon within the city; for which reason the +latter is still called the Pool of Hezekiah. Josephus[851] gives to the +Upper Pool the name of 'The Serpent's Pool,' and the Arabs call it +_Birket Mamillah_. The derivation of the name I have already +explained[852]. S. Jerome[853] calls it the 'Fuller's Pool;' perhaps +founding the name on the passages in the Bible[854], which shew that the +Fuller's field was in its neighbourhood. In the middle ages it was +called 'The Patriarch's Pool.' The passage in which it is mentioned is +as follows[855]: "Outside the David Gate was a pool towards the setting +sun, called the Patriarch's Pool, where the waters of the surrounding +country were collected for watering the horses. Near this pool was a +charnel-house, called the Lion's Charnel-house. Now I will tell you why +it is called the Lion's Charnel-house. One day, as they say, there was a +battle between the Christians and the Saracens, betwixt this +charnel-house and Jerusalem, in which many Christians were slain, and +the Saracens were intending next day to defile the bodies. So it +happened that a lion came by night, and carried them all into this +ditch, as they said. Above this charnel-house was a church, where people +sang services every day." Perhaps this church was dedicated to S. +Babylas, of which now only a mass of ruins remains, also covering +sepulchral caves. Here I place the monument of Herod, mentioned in the +account of Titus' wall of circumvallation[856]. The Mohammedan cemetery +surrounding the pool dates from the age of Saladin; for here are found +some ancient sarcophagi, and epitaphs bearing the names of certain of +his generals. All this spot is highly esteemed by the Mohammedans, and +their chief men are usually buried here. + +We will now take the road to the west, leading to S. John in the +Mountains (_Ain Karim_), and visit the Greek convent of S. Cross, called +by the Arabs _Deir el-Mar-sullabi_, which we reach in about twenty +minutes. Its name is derived from the tradition that the tree grew here +from which the Cross of Christ was made. Quaresmius[857] informs us that +the Empress Helena built a church here to mark the spot. Dositheus, +Greek Patriarch of Jerusalem towards the close of the seventeenth +century, who wrote the history of his predecessors in that office, is of +opinion that the monastery of S. Cross was built by Justinian I. at the +prayer of S. Saba, who had gone to Constantinople to refute some +calumnies which had been promulgated by the Samaritan, Arsenius, in +order to bring the people of Palestine into bad repute with the Emperor. +He supposes also that the Georgians, who occupied it for a long time, +were the builders. The Persian invaders under Chosroes II. utterly +destroyed the monastery, but spared a part of the church; murdering, +nevertheless, all the monks who had fled there for refuge, so that the +tesselated pavement, of great antiquity, still preserves the stains of +their blood. The Reverend Dionysius Cleopas, a most courteous and +learned man, the director of the school of S. Cross, pointed out these +stains to me, informing me of the tradition concerning them. Though I am +far from yielding a blind assent to it, I cannot but remember how long +the stain of blood remains upon marble or stone, if it has lain and +dried up there. In this case the blood of more than a hundred victims +must have been shed and left there. At the same time it must be +remarked that the stains, which extend below the surface of the tesseræ +in the pavement, are not red but of a blackish colour. + +When the Greeks purchased the convent from the Georgians it was wholly +in ruins; now, however, it is one of the finest establishments in +Palestine. Though rather an irregular building, it stands in a great +measure on the ancient site. In it are the schools where poor youths of +the Greek faith are maintained without charge, together with a library, +and a fine apartment for the use of the Patriarch when he visits the +place. The church[858] deserves a visit. Four large piers, from which +spring pointed arches, divide it into a nave with two side aisles. It is +also adorned with a pointed dome. The walls are decorated with ancient +frescoes, and on these are Georgian inscriptions shewing that the church +and convent were restored two hundred years ago. In the apses are +curious pictures representing the whole history of the sacred tree; the +hole, in which it is said to have grown, is exhibited behind the great +altar. Michael Glycas reports in his annals[859] the tradition from +which the name of the church is derived. Though it is a thorough Arab +story, I relate it, as it explains the pictures. "When Abraham became +aware of the sin which Lot had committed when overcome by wine, he +ordered him to go to the banks of the river Nile in Egypt, and bring +thence three boughs of different trees, in the expectation that he would +be devoured on the journey by the wild beasts, and would thus expiate +his crime. Lot, guided by heaven, accomplished the dangerous task, and +returned unhurt with the three boughs, one of cypress, another of pine, +and the third of cedar. Abraham not being contented with this, ascended +this hill and planted the three boughs in the form of a triangle, +ordering Lot to fetch water for them every day from the Jordan, a +distance of twenty-four miles." (This is the distance of the river from +the convent.) "Lot obeyed this command also, and after three months the +boughs united and budded, but their roots were always separated one from +the other. Therefore Abraham prophesied that by means of their wood +sinful men were one day to be redeemed. In the days of Solomon the tree +had grown to a great size, and was cut down by that King to be used in +building the Temple. But by the decree of Heaven its trunk remained +forgotten till the Saviour's Passion, when the Jews used it to make the +Cross. The hill, on which Abraham is said to have planted the three +boughs, is to the south-west of the convent, and is still called by the +Arabs 'The place of the boughs.'" Heraclius is said to have stayed in +this convent on his return from his expedition against the Persians to +recover the Holy Cross. + +On our return to Jerusalem from the monastery by the road to the east of +that by which we came, we see the quarries from which perhaps were +extracted the columns of red breccia which adorn the mosque _el-Aksa_, +and many churches in Palestine. On reaching the summit of the hill we +regain our former road, and enter Jerusalem by the Jaffa Gate. During +our return we notice with admiration the efforts made by the +Archimandrite Nicoforus for the improvement of the country, and the +energy and intelligence displayed in all his agricultural undertakings, +especially in planting trees. It is to be hoped that his attempts will +be crowned with success, and that the Arabs will avail themselves of the +opportunity, and join in a work so calculated to advance the prosperity +of the country. + + +FOOTNOTES: + +[794] Plate VII. + +[795] Page 6. + +[796] Page 35. + +[797] Page 37. + +[798] Pages 168, 169. + +[799] Acts vii. 58. + +[800] Elucidatio Terræ Sanctæ, Lib. IV. pereg. 8, c. 2, Tom. II. p. 295, +col. 2. See also, c. 3, p. 297, col. 1, ed. 1639. + +[801] Nicephorus, Hist. Eccl. Lib. XIV. c. 50. + +[802] Evagrius, Hist. Eccl. Lib. I. c. 22. + +[803] Ibid. + +[804] Hist. Eccl. Lib. XIV. c. 50. + +[805] Vita Sabæ, c. lxxxii. + +[806] Historia Hierosol. Lib. IX. (Gesta Dei, &c. Tom. I. p. 74, ed. +1611). + +[807] Early Travels in Palestine. 'Bohn's Ant. Lib.' p. 43. + +[808] Hist. Hierosol. Lib. V. c. 46 (G. D. &c. Tom. I. p. 274); cf. Lib. +VI. c. 9, and William of Tyre, Lib. VIII. c. 12. + +[809] De Vogüé, Les Églises, &c. p. 333. + +[810] Cartulary of the Holy Sepulchre, p. 306. + +[811] La Citez de Jherusalem, quoted by De Vogüé, p. 333. + +[812] Leo Allatius, Sym. p. 146. + +[813] La Citez de Jherusalem, quoted by De Vogüé, p. 441; Cartulary, p. +306. + +[814] Plates VIII., IX. + +[815] Page 38. + +[816] Jewish War, V. 5, § 6. + +[817] Page 38. + +[818] Jewish War, V. 4, § 2. + +[819] Hist. Eccl. Lib. VIII. c. 30. + +[820] Jer. xxxviii. 6. + +[821] Jer. xxxviii. 6, 28. + +[822] Jewish War, V. 4, § 2. + +[823] Jerusalem, p. 36. + +[824] Jewish War, V. 7, § 3. + +[825] Ant. XIII. 16, § 1. + +[826] Page 14. + +[827] This grotto is still called _el-Oezerie_, and is known to the +Arabs as the Tomb of Lazarus. + +[828] Plates LV., LVI. + +[829] Narrative of a Journey round the Dead Sea, &c. (edited by Count E. +de Warren, Vol. II. pp. 137, 138). + +[830] Plate LX. + +[831] My remarks may appear to resemble closely those made by M. Gérardy +Saintine, Trois Ans en Judée, p. 224. As he has used information given +to him by me, without any acknowledgment, I feel entitled to resume my +own. + +[832] The term 'sepulchral niche' is used to denote an arched recess +excavated in the wall of a tomb; the body was laid on the slab beneath +the arch, so that it resembled one of the monuments with recumbent +figures, not very uncommon in the walls of churches. The term 'casemate +vault' is used (in default of a better) to denote a narrow, deep, and +rather low excavation, into which the body was thrust head foremost. +Brick vaults are sometimes built on this pattern in the present day. + +[833] Plate LVIII. + +[834] Mariti, p. 216 seq. + +[835] Page 210. + +[836] Jewish War, I. 9, § 1. + +[837] See Plate LVIII. for Plan and Section. + +[838] Page 38; Plate LVII. + +[839] Trois Ans en Judée, p. 214. + +[840] Plate LIX. + +[841] I advise the visitor to take with him an Arab to beat the ground, +in order to make the reptiles conceal themselves, and frighten away the +jackals which frequent it, before he enters the place. + +[842] Jewish War, V. 3, § 2. + +[843] See Plan, Plate LIX. Frontispiece, Plate LVIII. + +[844] Plate LIX. + +[845] Plates LVIII., LIX. + +[846] Page 226. + +[847] Page 13. + +[848] Plate II. + +[849] Jewish War, V. 7, § 3; V. 9, § 1. + +[850] 2 Kings xviii. 17; 2 Chron. xxxii. 3, 4, 30; Isaiah vii. 3. + +[851] Jewish War, V. 3, § 2. + +[852] Page 24. + +[853] De Locis Hebr. litt. T. (Tapheth). + +[854] 2 Kings xviii. 17; Isaiah vii. 3. + +[855] La Citez de Jherusalem, De Vogüé, Les Églises, &c. p. 442. + +[856] Page 40. + +[857] E. T. S. Lib. VI. pereg. 4, c. 7, Tom. II. p. 712, col. 2, ed. 1639. + +[858] Plate LXIII. + +[859] Pars II. p. 254, ed. Bonn, e cod. Claromont. + + + + +CHAPTER VIII. + + ON THE WATERS, FIT OR UNFIT FOR DRINKING, IN JERUSALEM AND ITS + NEIGHBOURHOOD. + + +In the seven preceding chapters I have several times mentioned the +waters, drinkable and undrinkable, and the sewers, when we have come +across them in the course of our investigations; but I have not always +entered into details, reserving them for this chapter. Therefore I now +proceed to treat the subject at length, with the view of shewing, as +clearly as is possible, the means which the former inhabitants of +Jerusalem possessed of obtaining an abundant supply of water, and +removing the sewage of the city; and I shall also notice the +carelessness exhibited by the Arabs with regard to every part of the +works of their predecessors in the country, and how they rather employ +themselves in accelerating than in arresting their destruction. + +I am persuaded that there are some springs in Jerusalem and in its +neighbourhood; but these have never been sufficient to supply the wants +of the population without assistance; consequently the earlier Jewish +Kings executed important hydraulic works to introduce an abundant supply +into the city, and to preserve it there in reservoirs, to be used both +for the wants of life and for purposes of purification; and, above all, +for the requirements of the Temple-services, which were very +considerable. I have no doubt that the most extensive works were +commenced in David's reign, and carried still further in that of his son +Solomon. These are yet in existence, and might even now be in operation, +had they not fallen into the hands of an ignorant and almost barbarous +race, who are perpetually endeavouring to destroy them, without ever +thinking that they are thus aggravating the deficiency of water, and +placing the town in danger of being entirely deprived of it, if at any +time the rainfall is insufficient. The local government has several +times considered the mischief that may thus be caused, and has taken +steps accordingly to prevent it; but, weak as it is, has never been able +to make its orders respected. From this reproach, however, I except the +provident rule of Surraya Pasha, which is now over. + +According to my opinion, it was Solomon that ordered and executed the +important work of bringing the water from Etham into Jerusalem by means +of a conduit; which is indeed generally attributed to him, though it is +called by a few that of Pontius Pilate. The primary design of this +undertaking was unquestionably that the Temple and its precincts might +not suffer from a lack of water. It is very remarkable that neither the +Bible nor Josephus make express mention of this; but it is probable +that all the pools, now existing at Etham, are referred to in +Ecclesiastes[860]; and Josephus[861] informs us that the summer-palace +of Solomon was at the town of Etham, in the neighbourhood of Bethlehem, +fifty stadia from Jerusalem. Perhaps he did not describe the +water-works, because he considered them well-known. However, it is +certain that history does not afford us any positive _data_ for +ascribing these constructions to Solomon; but the magnitude of the work, +and tradition, induce me to attribute them to him. As it was on these +pools of Etham that the city mainly depended for its supply, I will +describe them first of all. + +Quitting the Jaffa Gate we take the direct road to Etham, passing the +Tomb of Rachel, and leaving Bethlehem on the left; it is a ride of two +hours and a half. Here is an old castle[862], called by the Arabs _Kalat +el-Burak_ (Castle of the Lightning), of which the outer walls, with +battlements, remain perfect; but the interior is all in ruins, and only +serves to harbour swarms of bees. History does not tell us when or by +whom it was built, but from its architecture and masonry it must +evidently be assigned to the twelfth or thirteenth century; the design +being, no doubt, to accommodate a small garrison in order to secure the +waters. It is not improbable that the Crusaders erected it to prevent +the hostile tribes from cutting off the water-supply from Jerusalem, +which would have been liable to this deprivation without such a +precaution. To the south are the three reservoirs, situated in the +middle of the Etham Valley, which slopes steeply down from west to east. +These are filled by the rain-water drained from the slopes of the +mountains on each side, and by an abundant supply from a spring on the +west of the castle, in a straight line along the direction of its north +side, at a distance of about 450 yards. I mention this, because its +rudely circular opening, like the mouth of a cistern, is hidden in a +field under a mass of stones thickly covered with creeping plants, and +so is sometimes not easily found without a guide. Possibly this spring +is mentioned in the Song of Solomon[863], in the words, "A garden +enclosed is my sister, my spouse, a spring shut up, a fountain sealed;" +hence it is now called 'fons signatus' by the Christians, and _Ras +el-Ain_ (Head of the Fountain), and also _Ain Saleh_ by the Arabs. Let +us examine its interior by descending an inconvenient shaft, like those +in cisterns; looking well where we set our feet, lest we come to the +bottom in a single step, a depth of about 12 feet only, but a rough +fall. On arriving below, we crawl a short distance, and then find +ourselves in a rectangular chamber 18 feet long from north to south, 10 +wide, and 20 high. The lower parts of the walls are formed of the great +blocks characteristic of the era of Solomon; the upper contain some with +rustic work in low relief, which diminishes towards the top of the +vault, where the stones are dressed smooth and flat. Hence I consider +that the chamber has been restored at different periods; an opinion +confirmed by the barrel-vault formed of long oblong stones, skilfully +laid with mortar. In the middle of the west wall is an opening leading +into a narrow cave, at the western extremity of which a limpid, cool, +and abundant spring issues from a natural channel in the rock, which +cannot be followed up by reason of its narrowness and the breaks in its +level. Where the water runs along the floor, we observe the remains of +an ancient canal formed of hard cement, which still exhibits some +fragments of earthenware pipes about ten inches in diameter. In the +corners of this cave are two other crevices in the rock, from which +issue small springs that unite with the former in the middle of the +first chamber. In this there is a basin, originally intended to act as a +filter, which is now out of repair, and receives the water on its way to +the conduit running to the east. Owing to the injuries done by the hand +of man, and the accumulation of extraneous substances, a large part of +the stream escapes into the ground, and is lost. I have repeatedly +visited this place at the various seasons of the year, and have found +the fountain flowing most copiously in winter, but there is no +deficiency in summer; so that if the reservoirs and conduits were +properly kept up, Jerusalem would never be in want of spring-water, and +the health and comfort of its inhabitants would be improved by the +decrease of fevers, and the increase of cleanliness. The eastern conduit +is mainly excavated in the solid rock, especially near its mouth; but +the upper part, which is vaulted for the first 20 feet, is then covered +with large slabs, as far as the south-west corner of the castle. At +first it is 3 feet wide and 4 high, but it gradually becomes narrower +and lower as it approaches this corner, and can therefore only be +traversed for a distance of 86 feet, when the walls, hewn out of the +rock, are replaced by others of masonry, although rock continues to form +the bottom of the conduit. This aqueduct, running in a curve from the +spring to the castle, empties part of its contents into a round basin, +near the north-west corner of the first pool, whence it flows into the +pool; so that there is usually water in this even in the height of +summer, when the other two are generally dry. Before proceeding to +describe the course of the water, both from the round basin and in +other directions, I call attention to the three large reservoirs, which +are mainly excavated in the rock, the eastern side alone of each being +formed of solid masonry, built in steps externally to resist the +pressure of the water. In these walls, and especially in their lower +parts, very ancient Jewish work is seen, which may be assigned to the +reign of Solomon; not the slightest trace of mortar is visible, and +where the wall has been wantonly injured, pieces of iron appear with the +holes in the stones for clamps. The walls are now faced with Arab cement +(the last was put on in 1857 and 1860); but in places fragments of an +ancient compost still remain, so compact and hard that it has withstood +the injuries of twenty-nine centuries. The Plan shews the arrangement +and dimensions of these reservoirs, and the Section their inclination +and respective depths, so that I need not enter into particulars on +these points, but only remark that the eastern end of each is connected +with a subterranean chamber, wherein we can observe the various channels +which have been used, according to circumstances, to augment the outflow +of the stream from the upper to the lower reservoir. In these the +original vaulting still remains, circular in form and constructed of +blocks, built together without mortar; that belonging to the last pool +on the east is the largest, from which the conduit starts which goes to +the _castellum_[864], and thence to Jerusalem. We will now return to the +first-mentioned conduit. I have already said that the aqueduct from the +'Sealed Fountain' discharges a portion of its waters into the round +basin; another portion flows along a covered canal, visible on the +surface, which runs along by the side of the three pools, supplying a +fountain near the north-east corner of the first of them, and then +emptying itself into the _castellum_ just mentioned. In case of too +great a quantity of water flowing into the round basin, and being forced +back by the first pool becoming full, the overplus is not lost, but +escapes through a third aperture into a subterranean chamber, on the +west of the basin, and almost united to it, where it joins the stream +coming from a very deep spring (not before mentioned), whence it is +conducted by a subterranean canal (whether this is artificial or natural +I have not been able to decide) to the _castellum_ on the east of the +lowest pool. This point I have proved by stopping up the supply of water +from the other quarters; an experiment which was witnessed by M. de +Barrère and M. E. Meshullam. Another spring also supplies the latter +_castellum_, the stream from which, rising at a distance of about 750 +feet, comes down the valley, and runs parallel to the east end of the +lowest pool; this is called by the Arabs _Ain Atan_, and is the best +water in Palestine, but is not very abundant, from the way in which the +neighbourhood of the source has been cleared of trees. The above-named +fountains are not all of those which formerly supported the gardens of +Solomon and Jerusalem; two conduits from the south increased the +supply; one of which came from the neighbourhood of Hebron (to the south +of the village of _Halhul_), and flowed into the lowest pool: another, +from the mountains near Etham, emptied itself into the first pool. The +whole course of these conduits can be traced; but it is sad to see them +becoming more and more ruinous every year, when, with little trouble and +expense, they could be sufficiently repaired to be of immense benefit to +the places through which they run. In case the three pools became full, +and the great influx into the lower _castellum_ produced a flood, the +water escaped by a canal, following the course of the valley, and flowed +into two pools, at some distance apart, smaller than those above: there, +no doubt, it was kept to irrigate the gardens below, which may be +identified with the 'garden inclosed[865]' of Solomon. The important +remains of buildings and pools which M. Meshullam has discovered and +laid open, while bringing (most successfully) the ground under +cultivation, are proofs of this point. The shape of the lower pools and +the materials employed in them shew that they are of the same age as the +upper. It is impossible to suppose that these can be the work of any of +the conquerors of Palestine, for none of them would have undertaken a +work of such magnitude, especially as their mission has always been +rather to destroy than to build; neither can we attribute them to Herod, +on account of the silence of Josephus, who mentions all his chief works; +so that we naturally assign them to the epoch of Solomon. The ability of +the engineer who constructed these works is shewn even more in the +aqueduct than in the pools, as it falls and rises, winding through +valleys and hills on its way from the _castellum_, until, after a course +of about 40,000 feet, it empties itself into the great reservoir in the +Valley of Gihon, not far from, and on the north of, the _Birket +es-Sultan_ (the ancient Lower Pool), where its waters were allowed to +settle. Here the aqueduct was formerly divided into two branches, +whereof the one flowed into the pool below, and the other, after +crossing the valley, still rises up the side of Sion, and having skirted +the eastern slopes above the Tyropoeon valley, crosses it and enters +Moriah, as I have already described[866]. The whole course of this +aqueduct still remains, and we can observe that a large portion of it is +hewn in the rock, and covered up with large slabs, while in other parts +it is formed of earthenware pipes eight inches in diameter, which are +skilfully laid with strong cement between stones cut in a proper shape, +and protected above with solid masonry. The various Arab restorations, +at different periods, have considerably modified the form of the +aqueduct, but nevertheless enough remains to enable us to study its +construction. Josephus[867] mentions that Pilate spent the sacred +treasure upon an aqueduct, and some have understood from this that he +constructed the one of which we speak. I cannot however suppose that the +Governor of a province would have been able to carry out a work of such +magnitude; and had it been done, the memory of it would have been +preserved by tradition. Josephus, indeed, speaks of the length of the +work as 400 stadia, but this, I think, must be a mistake in the +manuscripts; 40 would be nearer to the proper amount. The Talmud[868] +states that the aqueduct bringing the water into Moriah emptied itself +into the 'sea of bronze,' and that the spring from which it was supplied +was 23 cubits higher than the pavement of the Temple. This is the actual +height of the 'fountain inclosed;' and this aqueduct does communicate, +as we have shewn, with the supposed site of the 'sea.' The aqueduct has +been restored at various times, since history informs us that Cathuba, +Sultan of Egypt, expended large sums in bringing the waters from the +vicinity of Hebron to the three pools at Etham; and in the thirteenth +century, Sultan Mohammed Ibn-Kelaoun repaired the ancient works of +Solomon to convey the water into Moriah, which had been diverted when +Saladin broke down the aqueduct, in order to cut off the supply from the +Crusaders[869]. The Mohammedan chronicles relate that Solyman the +Magnificent went to great expense in restoring it. At a later period, +under the government of Kiamil Pasha and Surraya Pasha, in 1856 and in +1860, the waters of Etham were brought into Jerusalem, on which occasion +I co-operated with the Turkish engineer, Assad Effendi; but these last +repairs have not been permanent, because the _fellahîn_ divert the water +for their private purposes, and those whose duty it is to guard the +aqueduct are bribed to blindness by a present of a lamb or some money. +Until the Governor adopts rigorous measures, the water will be used by +the herdsmen, and will not reach the city. + +I will now briefly indicate the advantages that the waters of Etham must +have produced when they supplied Jerusalem. (1) They filled _Birket +es-Sultan_, or the lower pool, at the southern end of the Valley of +Gihon, then irrigated the gardens and fields in the Valley of Hinnom, +and afterwards flowed into the Kidron, augmenting its volume and aiding +in sweeping away the sewage from the Temple. I have found at certain +places in the Valley of Hinnom remains of ancient walls, which I +consider to have belonged to pools formed there to keep the water until +it was wanted for the neighbouring fields. (2) When the water arrived at +the western extremity of the bridge across the Tyropoeon, a branch +conduit, as I believe, carried a portion of it northward to supply the +different fountains, which still exist in the valley, and also to aid in +filling the Pool of Bethesda; which however was also supplied by the +conduit from the northern valley, and by others from the pool outside S. +Mary's Gate, which was filled from the ditch on the north-east outside +the city. Hence it appears that the lower city was well provided with +water. The works which I have hitherto described could still be restored +with the greatest ease, if the Government chose to expend £7200 in +repairing them in different places, and to organize an effective police +to guard the aqueduct from injury by any chance comer; a thing at +present impossible, owing to the venality of the officials of the +Government, and the barbarism of the Arabs. The former, however, is the +more insurmountable evil. In 1860 I proposed a plan to Surraya Pasha for +securing the water-supply from Etham, and shewed how the expenditure +might be repaid by a rate on Jerusalem and Bethlehem (which is on the +course of the conduit, and receives benefit from it); this rate would be +a positive gain to the inhabitants of the former place, as it would save +them from the capricious and exaggerated demands of those who bring +water into the city, when the cisterns have failed in a season of +drought. He at once perceived the advantages of my plan, but was unable +to carry it into effect, as he could not secure the necessary +co-operation. A short time since a European engineer proposed to bring +the water from Etham to Jerusalem by cast-iron pipes, which were to +start from the Tomb of Rachel, on the Bethlehem road, about four miles +from Jerusalem, and bring it up to the summit of the tower, which I call +Phasaëlus, in the Castle of David, from which the central valley was to +be supplied. I am convinced that this plan is impracticable in +Palestine, not only from the great expense, but also because the +Government could never consent to turn into water-works a place which +would be their chief stronghold in case of an insurrection of the +Bedouins or _fellahîn_; besides, the pipes themselves would be eagerly +sought after as booty. If it has not been, and is not possible to +restore that which now exists, how can anything new be done? +Circumstances will alter, and then we may hope that Palestine will +advance as Europe is doing; but the good time has not yet come, and +still seems to be far distant. + +Etham was not the only place that supplied Jerusalem with water; for +some came from the west, from the Upper Pool of Gihon (the present +_Birket Mamillah_[870]). From the words of the Bible[871] we should +expect that a fountain was in its neighbourhood; but as the ground near +is now converted into a Mohammedan cemetery, it is impossible to make +any excavations, and I must therefore content myself with explaining +what can be seen above ground. The Pool _Mamillah_ has been excavated in +the rock; by whom history does not tell us, but it is certainly older +than the time of Hezekiah, for Isaiah met Ahaz 'at the end of the +conduit of the upper pool[872],' on the occasion of the prophecy, +'Behold, a virgin shall conceive and bear a son.' This pool occupies a +favourable position for collecting the water that drains from the slopes +of the neighbouring hills in a rainy season. It formerly supplied not +only the Pool Amygdalon in the city (as it still does), but also the +lower pool in the valley or _Birket es-Sultan_. Finding the Pool +_Mamillah_ dry in the summer-season, I made a careful examination of it, +especially on the western side, to see if I could find any mouths of +conduits, but could not discover the slightest trace; so that if there +ever were any, they have entirely disappeared under the various +restorations that the place has undergone. At the present time its +waters are unfit to drink owing to the surrounding cemeteries; but this +would not render them less useful to the city, if the pool were put in +order so as to prevent the waters from being absorbed by the rubbish +which thickly covers the bottom, and from escaping through the crevices +in the sides, now unstopped with cement, and if the conduit were +properly repaired and protected. Were all these works in good condition, +the pool would be filled at the time of the rains, and would supply the +Pool Amygdalon[873]; and in that case the two would annually furnish the +water required by the bath in the Christian bazaar, and its proprietors +be able to make money by selling what they did not require to the +builders. It is surprising that the Arabs do not see the advantages that +they would gain, especially as the cost of the repairs would not be more +than £600. + +In my opinion these two pools and their conduit answer to the +descriptions given us in various passages of the Bible. We read[874] +that when the officers of the king of Assyria arrived with a great host +from Lachish, "they came and stood by the conduit of the upper pool, +which is in the highway of the fuller's field." Their army must have +encamped on the west, and extended as far as the present site of the +Latin Convent of S. Saviour, as the position was commanding and well +suited for marshalling troops before an attack, and the walls were +unprotected by any natural defences. Again, we find[875] that during the +conference between the general of Sennacherib and the chief men in +Jerusalem, they were within hearing of the men on the wall. So when +Sennacherib menaced Jerusalem, Hezekiah[876] "stopped the waters of the +fountains which were without the city; repaired Millo in the city of +David (the present Amygdalon), and stopped the upper watercourse of +Gihon, and brought it straight down to the west side of the city of +David." This I understand to mean that Hezekiah wished to deprive the +enemy of water, and so enclosed Amygdalon with a wall on the west and +north, thus bringing it inside the city, and at the same time +constructed the existing conduit to divert the waters from the upper +pool and leave it dry. These works must have been executed in haste, and +I cannot conceive it possible that they could have been carried into +effect in any other part of the environs of Jerusalem, as it would have +been a colossal labour to bring a conduit to the western side of the +City of David in any other direction, for the hills must have been +pierced. It would also have been unnecessary, as the only purpose was +to conduct the water from the upper pool to that within the city. +Josephus[877] in speaking of the gate by which the water came into the +tower Hippicus, indicates the existence of another conduit. This I +suppose to have been a branch of that of Hezekiah. When the foundations +of the English church were dug, the remains of a conduit were +discovered, which seems to shew that this was the site of one of Herod's +palaces, probably that called the Cæsareum. It has been thought that +this conduit went as far as Moriah, but I believe that I have found its +mouth in the street of David, 'in the going down to Silla[878],' close +to the Greek convent of S. John on the south, and that it was a sewer. + +At the end of the Valley of Siloam is another means of providing for the +wants of the city in the matter of water; that is the well _Bir Eyub_, +the ancient En-rogel, the boundary between the tribes of Judah and +Benjamin[879]. It is situated in a deep narrow cleft of the valley, with +precipitous mountains on every side; and formerly furnished water to +Jerusalem, as it still continues to do, the inhabitants of Siloam +driving a brisk trade during the summer droughts. I have already +mentioned this well[880], and now proceed to give a more detailed +account of it. In the month of October, 1858, _Bir Eyub_ was perfectly +dry, and I availed myself of this event, unfortunate for Jerusalem, to +descend into it. I reached the bottom, covered with fine sand, and there +was able to examine a small cavity in the rock on the west, mentioned by +Mejir ed-Din, from which the water flows in the rainy season. It was +then completely dry, but I think that a spring formerly issued from it. +I believe that the well (108 feet deep) is a cavity naturally worn by +the constant flow of the water, but that it has afterwards been dressed +with a chisel. It is now rectangular in plan, and gradually diminishes +from the top to the bottom; the side walls are formed of large blocks in +the lower part; as we ascend their size decreases; small holes occur +among these at intervals, through which the rock can be seen, and the +water runs into the well[881]. The stones recede, one behind the other, +as we ascend, and they are perfectly united without any apparent trace +of mortar, and must be bolted together with iron clamps or stone tenons +to have enabled them to stand firm during so many centuries, and yet to +seem likely to stand for many more. I have no doubt that the masonry is +of the highest antiquity. The well is supplied by the rains which, +sinking into the surrounding mountainous country, descend naturally to +this vault at the lowest level. I have convinced myself of this by +careful observation at the rainy seasons, and have ascertained that the +well did not begin to fill until the rain had fallen for several days, +and that the level of the water was not affected, unless the rain was +heavy and continuous. I also found that the well did not overflow into +the Kidron, unless this rain lasted for several days, and that it ceased +when the fine weather returned, and a dry wind sprang up. In 1861 the +rain was so heavy that the overflow lasted for fifteen days, but during +this time there was very little sunshine in the neighbourhood of +Jerusalem. The above explanation will, I trust, be satisfactory to all, +except the Arabs, who account for the wonder in the following +manner[882]: "We all know that the _Haram es-Sherîf_ is constantly +guarded by sixty thousand angels. Now, by a decree of Heaven, while the +heavenly host watch in prayer around the sacred rock (_es-Sakharah_), an +equal number of evil spirits groan in the depths of the mountain, +condemned to support upon their accursed foreheads the weight of the +holy edifice, and of the vast plateau that encircles it. The weight is +terrible, but the following circumstance is marvellous. Every time that +a faithful Mohammedan, after due purification, places his foot upon the +ground of the _Haram_, the weight of his body increases the burden borne +by the demons seventy-fold. If the devotees are numerous, if they +frequently go to implore the divine mercy in that favoured spot, the +sufferings of the fiends are proportionately increased; they burst into +tears of grief and rage. The more ardent is the zeal of the believers, +the fuller is the reservoir, wherein, drop by drop, the tears of the +enemies of God are collected. Hence the abundance or the deficiency of +the water in _Bir Eyub_ measures the bounty of the Creator to His +creatures. It only depends then on our own prayers to have good +harvests, and when drought comes, we ought to accuse ourselves of a lack +of devotion." M. Saintine thinks that this account, when stripped of its +marvels, denotes that all the water-courses in the city flow into the +lower part of the _Haram es-Sherîf_, and thence are conducted by a +conduit into this well. This I cannot admit, because the waters running +down the western bank of the Tyropoeon follow the course of that +valley, and those which fall on the eastern are caught by the reservoirs +constructed for that purpose, and the small quantity that escapes, +falls, as I have already stated[883], into the Kidron Valley, opposite +to the Tomb of Absalom. + +Let us now pass on to consider the Fountain of the Virgin, the only +useful spring in the neighbourhood of Jerusalem, of which I have already +given an account[884], as well as of the upper pool of Siloam, which is +supplied by the Fountain; but I have not yet described the phenomenon of +its intermittence, the quality of its water, and the conduit connecting +the two places. S. Jerome, as I have already observed, and the +historians of the Crusades, noticed that the flow of the water was not +regular, so that the occurrence is by no means novel. Dr Robinson[885] +gives the following account of it: "As we were preparing to measure the +basin of the upper fountain and explore the passage leading from it, my +companion was standing on the lower step near the water, with one foot +on the step and the other on a loose stone lying in the basin. All at +once he perceived the water coming into his shoe; and supposing the +stone had rolled, he withdrew his foot to the step; which however was +also now covered with water. This instantly excited our curiosity; and +we now perceived the water rapidly bubbling up from under the lower +step. In less than five minutes it had risen in the basin nearly or +quite a foot; and we could hear it gurgling off through the interior +passage. In ten minutes more it had ceased to flow; and the water in the +basin was again reduced to its former level." I have repeatedly observed +the same thing, and for some time was unable to explain it, and +therefore questioned the villagers of Siloam, and so learnt, from the +more ignorant, the story of the dragon, and from the wiser, that the +spring had a flux and reflux like the sea; and they were prepared to +instruct me on its periodicity. How I at last discovered the true cause +I will relate in speaking of the _Hammam es-Shefa_. Meanwhile I only +mention, as an unquestionable fact, that the phenomenon undoubtedly +occurs both in the rainy and dry seasons, but that the supply is greater +in the former than in the latter. + +The water from the fountain flows into the upper pool of Siloam by means +of a subterranean conduit, which follows a winding course in the rock, +instead of going directly from north to south. In some places it is not +more than 2-1/4 feet high; in others 4 or even 5 feet; and in some parts +it is still higher, especially towards the Pool of Siloam. Its width in +general is about three feet, but near the southern mouth it increases up +to four. It has been hewn out of the rock in a very rude manner, so that +I am disposed to attribute it to the age of Solomon; especially as it +has been made to convey the water of the Fountain to a place where it +was more accessible to the inhabitants of the city, and could be +collected in the large reservoirs from which the gardens below, the +King's Gardens, were irrigated. In the 17th century a monk, by name +Julius, explored the whole of the dark damp passage. After him the Abbé +Desmazures, then an Englishman named Hyde, and Drs Robinson and Smith, +and also Tobler. I have traversed it several times, the last occasion +being in the month of February 1861; but I cannot advise any one to +follow my example, as the constant ruin continually increases the +difficulty of the undertaking, and there is always danger of the earth +falling in at any moment. This conduit explains why the intermittence is +observed in Siloam. The general belief in the country is that the source +springs from the lower cavities in Mount Moriah (as the river of +Ezekiel's vision[886]). I am of the same opinion, but must reserve this +point also for my description of the _Hammam es-Shefa_. The water of the +Fountain is limpid and slightly brackish; it contains lime, magnesia, +and sulphuric acid: its specific gravity is 1.0035: its temperature is +usually from 61.25° to 65.75° Fahrenheit. It is only drunk by the +inhabitants of Jerusalem when the supplies in their cisterns fail; +however, the peasants of Siloam use it for all purposes. Still it is +always a boon to the citizens, as it irrigates the gardens of Siloam, +which are rendered wonderfully fruitful, besides supplying the tanners +and washerwomen, and cattle of all kinds. + +I have already identified the Lower Pool of Siloam with the Pool of +Solomon, and stated that it now receives the sewage of the city; but it +must have been filled from the Upper Pool, and used to regulate the +supplies to the gardens, and increase the volume of the stream of the +Kidron. + +In the neighbourhood of the city, on the north and north-west, remains +of conduits are found, by which perhaps water was brought into the city, +but I have not been able to discover whence the supply came; and there +are, besides, some reservoirs and cisterns, none of which date from a +remote period. The most important work, as regards its size, is the pool +at the head of the Kidron valley, which I believe to have been +constructed solely to collect and preserve the waters for the wants of +those who dwelt in the neighbourhood, and to prevent the streams, +flowing from the adjoining hill-sides, from being absorbed in the +ground. At one time I thought that a subterranean conduit took the water +from the pool into the city; but after the most careful examination of +the ground in the vicinity, I am able to declare that no such conduit +exists. The reasons which have led me to this conclusion will appear in +the following account of my investigations. The people of the country +had informed me that at night, when the city was perfectly quiet, the +noise of flowing water could be heard beneath the Damascus Gate by any +one who placed his ear on the ground. I made the experiment several +times, and found it to be the case. When I excavated the ancient North +Gate (in the foundations of the present Damascus Gate), as I have +already described in the second chapter[887], I descended into the +cisterns just on the north of the gate, and repeated the experiment at +the bottom of them, and here I perceived more distinctly the gurgling of +water, which was still more audible after Said Pasha, Commandant of the +garrison of Jerusalem, had emptied these two cisterns of the rubbish +that encumbered them. It must also be observed that the noise is heard +louder after rain than at other times. This, therefore, led me to +believe that there was a conduit which transported the water into the +city, and consequently I many times made careful investigations in the +tract of land between the Kidron Pool and the Damascus Gate; but these +all failed in producing the desired result; and after levelling the +ground, penetrating into cisterns, and removing ruins, I came to the +conclusion that its existence was impossible; for, if it had been +constructed, it must have run at a great depth underground, and been +wholly excavated in the rock. A work of this kind, especially for such a +distance, would have been too much for Jewish science; for all the other +conduits in Palestine which can be assigned to an early period, if not +covered with long slabs, as is common, are not much below the level of +the ground, so that there are apertures at intervals to give them light. +Nor is this the only reason against the existence of a conduit; for in +examining the sewer in the Tyropoeon valley inside the city, near the +Damascus Gate, I obtained permission from the Pasha, when it was +repaired, to deepen the excavation, and found no trace of a water-course +in the place where it would naturally have run; unless indeed we suppose +it to have been made at a greater depth in the rock itself, or to have +crossed Bezetha, and come to an end either in Moriah or close to it on +the north-west. Consequently I conclude that the gurgling heard at the +Damascus Gate proceeds from the sewers in its neighbourhood, which +descend from Gareb and Bezetha and unite in the Tyropoeon valley. + +I terminate the examination of the waters outside the city by observing +that the Pilgrim's Pool[888], on the north (which I have already +noticed), is insufficiently supplied from the little valley above it, +and anciently discharged its waters into the Pool of Bethesda. I also +mention again the water dropping from the rock inside the Royal Caverns, +which some, who have only seen it in the rainy season and not in the +summer when it is dried up, consider to be a spring. I do not think that +these two sources contributed greatly in former time to augment the +supply of water to the city. + +Before the 12th of June, 1860, no other spring was known in Jerusalem +than that which rises at the bottom of the well of the _Hammam +es-Shefa_. With regard to this there have been many enquiries as to +whence its waters come, by what way they enter Moriah, and whither they +go. At the time just mentioned, I discovered the spring on the property +of the Daughters of Sion, as I have already described[889]; but about +two years previously, in the month of July, I had been called in to +examine some water which appeared near Herod's Gate, when the +foundations were dug for a large building belonging to Mustafa Bey, +which now bears his name. Having premised this, I will state the +conclusions at which I have arrived from my investigations at the three +places just mentioned, and also give my explanation of the phenomenon of +the intermittence of the water in the Fountain of the Virgin. + +In the foundation, on the south side of Mustafa Bey's house, at a depth +of 22 feet, a quantity of water had appeared during the night and filled +the hole. The master-mason and the owner, the sole architects, believed +that it had filtered through from some cistern in the neighbourhood, +and therefore set to work to bale it out. When this was done they were +very much surprised to see that a thin stream of water, coming from the +north-west, continued to fill the place; they therefore deepened the +excavation a little, and widened the opening, but they were unable to +account for the abundance of the water, which hindered their work. On +arriving at the spot I suggested excavating, but the fear of the +increased expenditure kept them from agreeing to this; so that, under +the circumstances, I had no other means of ascertaining anything, than +examining a number of cisterns which were in the neighbourhood; and +after tasting the water in them, and comparing it with that in the hole, +I found that the latter was of the same quality as that in the _Hammam +es-Shefa_ and the Fountain of the Virgin; and then I began to believe +that it came from a spring. The owner of the place consented to suspend +the works in this part for eight days, but I could not prevail on him to +permit me to make any excavation near the place on the north-west; and +during this time the water flowed through a canal which I had +constructed for it. After building two massive piers on each side of the +stream and turning a strong arch over it, the works proceeded; so that +the stream ran away to the south, without our having found a solution of +the problem; but I have no doubt that careful investigation would have +revealed the spring-head close by on the north-west. + +The discovery of June 12th, and the identity in taste and colour between +the water then found and that of which I have spoken, caused me to +examine the part of the city between the two points; and though the Arab +houses in this district caused many difficulties, I succeeded in +ascertaining that in this direction there were cisterns, into which +water found its way, similar to that at the spring, and consequently not +fit for all the purposes of life. From this I concluded that the two +springs must be connected, and the upper supply the lower. But still +there was the question, what became of all the water which issued from +the spring at the Convent of the Daughters of Sion? At the first moment +I was disposed to think that it flowed into the subterranean gallery, in +the direction of the north-west corner of the _Haram es-Sherîf_; but my +observations have brought me to the conclusion that it goes into the +well of the _Hammam es-Shefa_, as I will now shew. + +The stream flowed naturally to the south, therefore I carefully probed +all the western wall on the inside of the gallery to see if the water +passed along by it; but I found no signs, and so perceived that the +conduit from the spring had turned away in another direction. Though the +gallery was almost free from water in August, and quite dry in September +and October, the stream still flowed abundantly; so that had it run +along the gallery, it could not have escaped my observation. Still it +might have been objected, that possibly the stream was absorbed and its +course concealed by the earth at the bottom of the gallery, so I dammed +up the waters until a kind of pool was formed, and then set them free +on a sudden; but not a drop appeared in the gallery; so that I thought +that they must go into the _Hammam es-Shefa_. I consider the water in +this well to be the same as that which supplies the Fountain of the +Virgin, for the following reasons. The quality of the water is the same; +and though that in the well is rather turbid and that in the Fountain is +clear, I attribute this solely to the presence of rubbish in the well, +the waters of which are afterwards filtered during their course. The +water in the well has for a long time supplied a bath built over it, as +it still does. Traditions point it out as ancient, and the Talmud[890] +appears to confirm them, saying, that "the well was excavated by the +children of the captivity, and the priests drew water from it by means +of a pulley." We may therefore suppose that the Jews used to purify +themselves here, before entering the Temple, as the Mohammedans still do +on their festival days, before they go into the _Haram es-Sherîf_. This +bath is the cause of the intermittence of the stream in the Fountain of +the Virgin, for at certain periods of the day its keepers use the water +for the purposes of the establishment, and consequently not only prevent +it from rising high enough to reach the level of the conduit carrying it +off to the Kidron Valley, but also empty the well, so that it requires +some time to fill again. As this is done twice in every twenty-four +hours, the phenomenon of intermittence occurs just as often. This I have +proved by repeated observations and trials, and I recommend any one who +seeks for a more marvellous cause to follow my example. The quantity of +water in the well is hardly affected by the rains. The dirty water from +the bath is carried by a conduit into the sewer in the Tyropoeon +valley, and aids in transporting the filth therein outside the city. + +Let us now devote a few lines to the pools inside the city, which I have +already mentioned. Near the Jaffa Gate, on the north, is a small pool, +which many have supposed to be the one in which Bathsheba was bathing +when she was seen by David[891]; but I believe the desire of assigning a +legend to every spot to be the sole authority for the tradition. I have +not been able to examine this reservoir, but the Greeks, to whom it +belongs, and who have filled it with earth to prevent its becoming a +receptacle of filth, have, with many other of the inhabitants of +Jerusalem, assured me that it was very narrow, and that the workmanship +in it did not correspond with that of the Jewish era, but with that of +Saladin or Solyman; also that it had no connexion with the other ancient +water-works. + +With regard to the Pool Amygdalon, so often mentioned, I have to remark +that many of the cisterns, excavated in the upper city, are filled from +it, among which I may especially denote that which commonly bears S. +Helena's name, near the north-east corner of the Church of the +Resurrection. On this point there cannot be any doubt, since before the +Coptic hospice was erected on the northern side of Amygdalon, a large +conduit was visible near its north-east corner, which had been observed +by several of the older masons. Besides this, the waters of the pool +were certainly directed into the different sewers in the upper city in +order to cleanse them; as we may still see in part, for the water which +has been used for the bath, is conveyed by a conduit into the sewer in +the street of David. + +The Cistern of S. Helena has, as I believe, been sometimes called the +Cistern of Golgotha, and it has been said that anything light cast into +it appeared again in Siloam. I do not believe that this was the case, +but if the identification be correct, it might occur in the following +manner; that if the water in the cistern rose above a certain height it +might escape by a waste pipe, on the south-east of the cistern, into the +central sewer in the Tyropoeon, and thus, when there was a large +surplus of water, might easily descend to Siloam, bearing any floating +substance along with it. There are many other cisterns in the +neighbourhood of the Holy Sepulchre which I have examined, but these do +not help me to an explanation of the matter, as their waste pipes are +but small. + +I return to the Pool of Bethesda[892], to direct attention to the +Herodian masonry, which was certainly either built or repaired at the +erection of the Antonia. The stones which rest on the levelled rock are +perfectly united together in the following way: on the outer surface of +one stone is a rectangular mortise, into which fits a corresponding +tenon, left projecting from a stone with all its faces regularly +squared, and of somewhat smaller size than the first mentioned. Thus, +when a row[893] was finished the outer stones were about two inches +apart, and so the whole wall resembled a chess-board, all the squares +being separated by channels running horizontally and vertically. These +intervals were filled with very strong masonry; and in order that the +water might not possibly find its way through the joinings of the inner +stones, after the surface was thus made level, the whole was covered +with a strong cement. The position of the pool shews that it was not +only formed for the service of the Temple, but also for its defence. +This work, which could so easily be made again fit for use, is, on the +contrary, rapidly falling to ruin, being utterly neglected, like all the +other works of antiquity. + +There were some other pools inside the city--for example one, where the +barrack of the _Haram_[894] now stands; another, on the south of the +property of the Armenian Convent, which I myself have examined; but of +these every trace has now disappeared; and I only mention them to shew +how much better the city was supplied with water in former times by +means of proper contrivances. + +I have already explained[895] how the inhabitants now provide themselves +with water, and will only add that, of the 992 cisterns in Jerusalem +and its vicinity, the greater number are ancient, and are excavated in +the rock. In them the water would keep excellently, if proper attention +were paid to them, so that the city would never fall short; but they too +are neglected; and consequently there is in many years a want of water, +a great quantity of which is either absorbed by the ground and lost, or +runs into the sewers, which are in even worse repair, and, or lastly, +floods the streets, to the inconvenience of passengers, and the injury +of the public health. + +I conclude by remarking that, although Jerusalem is situated in a +position where limestone rocks abound, and where springs of drinkable +water are not to be found, (there being but one which could be used, +even in extremity,) the city has never suffered from thirst in all the +numerous sieges which it has undergone. The besiegers, however, have +almost always been reduced to great straits from this cause; for +example, the armies of Pompeius, of Antiochus Eupator, and of the +Crusaders. Josephus, indeed, says that the Roman troops under Titus did +not want water, but this is in a speech addressed to his +fellow-citizens, when he is exhorting them to submit in order to avoid a +more miserable fate; and he brings forward this unwonted circumstance as +a sign that heaven had abandoned them, just as had happened when the +city was besieged by Nebuchadnezzar. Still great distress, according to +Dio Cassius[896], did prevail among the Roman army. The inhabitants, +however, never felt any such want; their miseries always arose from +hunger; and William of Tyre[897] expressly states that when the army of +Godfrey of Bouillon entered Jerusalem they found plenty of water. From +the earliest period the supply appears to have been well maintained; and +it is to be hoped that some person or other will before long restore the +city to its former condition; and by repairing the ancient water-works +render it no longer dependent on the rains. Woe betide Jerusalem if +showers should fail during two years in succession! + + +FOOTNOTES: + +[860] Eccl. ii. 4, 6. + +[861] Ant. VIII. 7, § 3. + +[862] Plate X. + +[863] Cant. iv. 12. + +[864] The reservoirs constructed at certain points along the course of +an aqueduct to regulate the supply of water. + +[865] Cant. iv. 12. + +[866] Page 100. + +[867] Ant. XVIII. 3, § 2; Jewish War, II. 9, § 4. + +[868] Joma, fol. 31. 1. + +[869] Greg. Abulpharagii seu Barhebræi Chronicum Syriacum, ed. G. G. +Kirsch. Lips. 1789. 2 Vols. 4to. + +[870] Plate LXII. + +[871] 2 Chron. xxxii. 30. + +[872] Isai. vii. 3. + +[873] Plate XXXI. + +[874] 2 Kings xviii. 17. + +[875] 2 Kings xviii. 18, 26, 28. + +[876] 2 Chron. xxxii. 3, 4, 5, 30. + +[877] Jewish War, V. 7, § 3. + +[878] 2 Kings xii. 20. + +[879] Josh. xv. 7; Plate XLVIII. + +[880] Page 188. + +[881] Plate X. + +[882] I avail myself of the words of M. Saintine (Trois ans en Judée, p. +132), as I was in his company when an old Sheikh told us the story. + +[883] Page 92. + +[884] Page 184. + +[885] Biblical Researches, Vol. I. p. 506 (1st ed.). + +[886] Ezek. xlvii. + +[887] Page 36. + +[888] Page 14. + +[889] Page 63. + +[890] Gloss. in Mishnajoth in Octav. in Midd. Perek. 5. + +[891] 2 Sam. xi. 2-4. + +[892] Plate XVI. + +[893] See Plate X. fig. 6. + +[894] Jewish War, V. 11, § 4. + +[895] Page 14. + +[896] Dio Cassius, LXIV. 4. + +[897] Lib. VIII. c. 24, G. D. p. 761. + + + + +CHAPTER IX. + + GENERAL REMARKS UPON THE PRESENT STATE OF THE CITY OF JERUSALEM. + + +In the previous chapters I have put forward the results of my researches +upon the topography, antiquities, and principal edifices of Jerusalem. I +now proceed to give a general idea of those things which a person +intending to reside there, or even to visit it, would wish to know; and +I commence by giving some information which may be useful to the +traveller. Jaffa is the seaport at which most persons, who intend to +visit Jerusalem, land. The distance between the two places is about +28-1/2 miles. The mournful aspect of the former city generally drives +away visitors after they have made a short stay and hastily traversed a +few filthy streets; but those who wish to spend a longer time and +carefully examine the antiquities of the place, or repose after their +voyage, will find two tolerably comfortable hotels. Besides these, the +Latin convent of the Franciscans entertains gratuitously all who apply +without regard to their religious opinions. Nor do the Greeks and +Armenians refuse to receive strangers, though they are established +especially for the members of their own communities. An inn or the Latin +convent is most convenient for a European. Consular agents of different +nations reside in the town, and shew the greatest courtesy and attention +to travellers; and through their dragomans or _cavas_ (consular guards), +or through the servants of the convent, one can obtain horses without +fear of being cheated. A three hours' ride along an excellent road takes +the traveller to Ramleh, a town without any inns; but where he can pass +the night in either the Latin, Greek, or Armenian convents, and on the +morrow pursue his course with the same horse to Jerusalem, where he will +arrive after a journey of eight or nine hours. I do not mention the +price of the bridle, saddle, and other necessaries of the journey, as +these vary with time and circumstances. + +In Jerusalem there are two inns kept by honest people; those, however, +who prefer availing themselves of the hospitality of the convents can do +so; but should of course make an offering before leaving, according to +their circumstances. This, however, is never demanded; nor will the +person who does not choose, or is unable to present it, be the less +kindly treated on that account. From the instant of his arrival the +traveller is pestered with interpreters and _ciceroni_. These it is +imprudent to engage without previous enquiries at their Consulate, or +from the Head of the religious community to which they belong; so too +with those who offer themselves to take charge of a caravan, or act as +escorts on journeys to the Jordan or Dead Sea, or other parts of +Palestine. The bargain should be struck with responsible chiefs alone, +at the Consulate, and all the conditions of the engagement should be +clearly stated in writing, so that no disputes may afterwards arise. +Persons who let out horses are not slow to offer themselves; but I +recommend the traveller to make good use of his judgment before hiring a +horse for a long period. After carefully examining it and its harness, +it is necessary to put down on paper all the terms of the agreement, in +the presence of two witnesses, to avoid having constant recourse to the +Consul's office. Generally, however, oral evidence is more esteemed in +the East than documentary, because the sense of words in a writing can +be easily altered. + +In case the traveller wishes to change money, let him beware of the +petty money-changers in the bazaars, and go to the banks recommended by +his Consul, or by the Head of his religious community. In buying +anything from Arab dealers, unless accompanied by an honest guide, the +stranger is always liable to be cheated, and to pay double the proper +value, because it is usual for his conductor to receive a percentage on +what his master spends. Most of all, distrust the itinerant dealers who +call at private houses, or who are found in the lobbies of convents, +hospices, and inns, or in the court before the Church of the +Resurrection. + +Any one who wishes to make a long stay at Jerusalem, and to hire a +house, should not treat with a _factotum_, but with some person in whom +he can place confidence. He will then get what he requires much more +cheaply. Before signing the contract he should ascertain the state of +the cisterns and their contents, the conduits, and the offices, unless +he wishes to find himself without water, or with leaky drains that will +make his house smell like a sewer. Let him also beware of foes, that lie +hid by day, but issue forth by night to murder sleep. Take care that all +defects observed in the scrutiny are at once repaired, for as soon as +the rent is paid, the proprietor will hold himself free to do nothing, +and will find a thousand pretexts to save himself from spending a +farthing, even though he be ordered to do it by the authorities. The +terrace-roofs are always in bad repair, so they must not be forgotten. +Let not a mistaken notion of economy induce the visitor to take an old +house; for in that case it is necessary to be always erecting barriers +against the rats and snakes, which the Arabs call the friends of the +house, and many other invaders. No one should hire a servant without a +character from a person of credit; and constant watchfulness is +necessary, especially when the domestics have the purchase of provisions +in their own hands: adulterated goods of all kinds are common enough in +Palestine, even to the refinement of black stones in sacks of coal, and +pebbles in soap. In a word, keep your eyes wide open, for the Arab is +omnivorous, and steals slowly, but steadily. Weights and measures are +not wanting in native shops, but such weights and measures! Every dealer +has a double set, and uses the just or the unjust according to +circumstances. The government officers appointed for this purpose do not +fail to visit the shops (politely giving notice of their intention +beforehand), and of course everything is then in order. Now and then a +victim is necessary, and the offence is denounced; but before the +offender is put in prison, it is made out to be a mistake on the part of +the police-officer, who is excused on the score of excess of zeal. These +things continually happen, and the evil is irreparable. With the +European dealers there is no danger of being cheated. + +The butchers are great rogues, and cheat in every possible way. The +tariffs sanctioned by the Government are not observed, and whoever wants +good meat must pay the butcher's price. Only those who are in authority, +and can make their complaints heard, are supplied according to the +tariff. The rest of the people suffer, and can get no redress from the +badly-paid subordinates of the Government, who are bribed to be blind +and deaf; and not unfrequently the complainant, if unprotected by one of +the Consuls, is maltreated by the vendors and the vigilant guardians of +the peace. + +The shops kept by Europeans are so well provided with the products of +that continent, that the stranger might easily forget that he was in +Palestine. Food and liquors of various kinds, clothes, and other +necessaries, come from England, Marseilles, and Trieste, and from many +parts of the East; so that any one of moderate means may supply his +wants sufficiently, but simply; and without these he can live on the +produce of the country at a cheap rate. + +Vegetables are scarce and dear, but annual supplies, in a preserved +state, are sent from France. Beef and veal are seldom offered for sale, +and are not good. There is plenty of mutton, sheep and goat, and +sometimes of camel flesh; but the last two, with the inferior kinds of +the former, are only bought by the poor. The European also finds pork, +wild boar, hares and gazelles. Fowls, turkeys, ducks, and pigeons, are +plentiful in the market, which is sometimes supplied with partridges and +other game, and with fresh fish from Jaffa. Eggs and milk are plentiful; +cheese and butter are imported, only because the peasants do not know +how to make them, and will not take the trouble to learn. Oranges, +lemons, pomegranates, cucumbers, melons, figs, almonds, and grapes, are +very abundant; dates and bananas, the produce of the country, are less +plentiful. There are also peaches, apricots, plums, pears, and apples, +and many other fruits too numerous to mention. The wines of the country +are made at Hebron, Bethlehem, and S. John: these are very good, but +rather strong; and as they are insufficient for the wants of the place, +and those of France are very dear, Cyprus wine is much used. The bread +during the last few years has become pretty good, and that made by the +Jews is very fair, and would be still better if they had proper mills to +grind the wheat; those worked by horses and asses and by the hand all +belong to private owners. A single windmill, erected by Sir M. +Montefiore, has greatly improved the quality of the bread. The grain of +the country, when properly ground and prepared, makes excellent bread; +but many European families use flour imported from Trieste, which is +very good. The Arab bread, on which most of the people live, is +abominable, being badly made and full of grit. It is needless to observe +that the dealers pay no regard to the orders of the government, and sell +loaves either of light weight, or adulterated with cheaper materials. +When Surraya Pasha inspected the shops in person, on which occasion I +accompanied him, twelve offenders against the law were imprisoned; and +many others only escaped by having no more bread to sell; that is to +say, they had heard of the Pasha's coming, and had hidden their stock. + +There is no lack of watchmakers, goldsmiths, blacksmiths, tailors, +bootmakers, and cabinetmakers, who can supply not only the necessaries, +but even the luxuries of life. There are excellent building materials to +be obtained, and good quarrymen, stonecutters, and masons. Wood is +rather scarce in the country, but can be got from Egypt or Beyrout, +where the yards are overstocked by the supplies from Trieste and +Lebanon. + +The French, Austrian, and Turkish posts facilitate intercourse with +Europe and the East. The steamers also of the French Messagerie +Impériale and of the Austrian Lloyd arrive at the port of Jaffa on +alternate weeks. The Turkish post is very badly managed; for the courier +is often robbed of his mail-bag, and when it arrives in safety, the +distribution of its contents is conducted so carelessly, that the first +comer may possess himself of any letter he pleases; so that nothing +valuable should be entrusted to it. + +The commerce of the city is on a very small scale, nor are there many +merchants who speculate; and such as there are, except the Europeans and +some few of the inhabitants, are more to be feared than the Bedouins who +infest the open country. The value of money changes from one moment to +another, according to the bankers' caprice, without the Government +taking any notice of the matter. The legal rate of interest is 10, and +sometimes 12 per cent., but this is disregarded; the usurers, who are +numerous, demand 25 and even 30 per cent. Business in Jerusalem is +transacted slowly, not only owing to the nature of the inhabitants, but +also because Friday, Saturday, and Sunday, are the days of rest to the +Mohammedans, Jews, and Christians, respectively; not to speak of the +other numerous festivals which each community keeps holy during the +course of the year. + +If a European wishes to remain in good health, he should wear flannel, +and avoid using linen, because the mornings and evenings are damp, and +the temperature is frequently liable to considerable changes. When he is +obliged to expose himself to the sun, he should cover his head with +white cloth, and thus he will escape unhurt. When on a journey, and +exposed to great heat, he should wear white clothing, and eat and drink +very sparingly, not taking much water while _en route_. + +It is well to be aware that all the gates are shut at sunset, excepting +the Jaffa Gate, which remains open an hour longer; so that the traveller +who arrives too late may be obliged to sleep in the open air, unless he +have taken the precaution to furnish himself with an order from the +Commandant. + +Whoever goes out into the streets by night must carry a lantern, not +only because it is so ordered by the authorities, and a person breaking +this rule is liable to be arrested by a patrol or by the police, but +also because it is otherwise impossible to avoid stumbling in some ill +repaired part of the road, or being attacked by the packs of dogs, who +guard and infest the streets of the city. + +Having thus given some general information and advice, I proceed to make +a few remarks on the present state of the city. A walk through the +streets, when undertaken without a special purpose, is more oppressive +than refreshing. They are narrow and dark, frequently arched over, and +almost deserted. They are paved with stones, ill joined and uneven. +These are not easy to walk on, as their surfaces are smooth and +slippery, especially in the rainy season; and on horseback they are very +dangerous, as I experienced myself the first time that I saw them. As +the city slopes from west to east, the streets generally fall in the +same direction; so that the upper are less filthy than the lower, which +in the rainy season are horribly foul, since the dirt all lodges in +them, and no one takes the trouble to remove it. Surraya Pasha issued +strict orders to the street police, and frequently inspected them +himself; but it is very hard work to keep the Arabs from their beloved +mud. In the more frequented parts of the town the shops are generally +mean in appearance, and disgust rather than amuse the spectators. The +houses are built with small stones, some black with age, the rest light +grey. Most of them have no windows outside, and those which have +resemble prisons or monasteries, as the apertures are small and barred. +This produces a very dull and oppressive effect, until the eye becomes +accustomed to it. The entrance-doors are generally low and narrow, and I +recommend the stranger not to form his opinion of the internal +arrangements from what he sees on the threshold. The houses have +terrace-roofs, many of which are covered with slabs of stone well +united; but the generality are formed of small pieces mixed with cement, +beaten into a solid mass, which however does not possess much power of +resistance, as it cracks with the heat of the sun, and admits the water +in rainy weather; consequently many of the houses are damp, and their +inhabitants liable to fevers. These terrace-roofs are surrounded by a +wall five or six feet high, serving as a parapet. It is formed of small +earthenware tubes, making it look like the side of a dovecot; but by +this means the women, by whom the roofs are used as places for exercise +and amusement, can see, without being seen. + +Heaps of ruins and filth are seen in the public places, and no one +frequents them for business; beggars crave an alms, lepers exhibit their +sores, vagrant curs snarl over their booty. Camels crouched down await +their burdens, and fill the air with a disgusting odour, caused by the +ointment with which they are smeared to cure skin-diseases. Disgust, +fear, hypocrisy, slavishness and distrust, are the common expressions in +the faces of the men, shewing the different races of which they are +composed; opposed one to another in religion and fortunes, victors and +vanquished, jealous and distrustful one of the other. The women are +generally covered with a white cloth, looking like ghosts, or if +uncovered, would look better veiled. If wearied with the dullness +within, we go outside the walls, we find a few olive-trees on the +north-west, a few young plantations on the west, and the rest barren and +desolate. Everywhere deep valleys or steep hills, stony and rocky roads, +impracticable for carriages, difficult for horses, and painful for +foot-travellers. Wherever we go the memorials of the dead are before our +eyes; for the cemeteries are the places of general resort. Escaping, +however, from the city, from its bad smells and loathsome and +importunate beggars, we can ascend the hills, and contemplate a +panorama, where every stone is a witness of God's revelation, and every +ruin a monument of His wrath. On these bare summits high and ennobling +thoughts fill the mind, bringing a calm that is found with difficulty in +bustling and crowded cities. He who is careless or unbelieving, he who +travels only from curiosity or to kill time, had better take my advice, +and avoid Jerusalem. There he will have no amusement beyond taking a +ride, or smoking and drinking bad coffee in an Arab _café_; watching the +languid passers by, or listening to Arab songs accompanied on tuneless +instruments. He, however, who has a family or business to care for, or +is occupied in studying the inexhaustible riches of the soil, will live +in Jerusalem as agreeably as in any other place. + +There is but little pleasant social intercourse in Jerusalem, owing to +the jealousies among the rival sects; so that the conversation generally +runs upon the failings and faults of the members of the communities +which are not represented at the party; and scandalous stories and ill +natured remarks are retailed to the visitor, who is soon wearied and +disgusted. + +Hence it will appear that Jerusalem offers but slight attractions to one +who is not contented with the memories of the past, and the love of +archæological research. These, however, supply an unceasing field of +enjoyment and constant occupation. + +Jerusalem is not inhabited by a people; it is a great field wherein are +collected members from every nation, brought there by their religious +belief, and about to depart when their end is accomplished. No city +resembles less a fatherland, none is more like a place of exile. The +Turks, after impoverishing and governing the land after their own +fashion, give place to new magistrates, and return home with full +purses; the Arabs, who acquire there an idea of civilization, depart in +search of a place where they can lay out their property to advantage; +while those who remain barbarians, after gaining a moderate sum, retire +to the desert to end their days. The European missionaries and +travellers, after a long stay, desire at length to die in their native +land. The Western and Eastern pilgrims make but a brief sojourn, and +though many of them bewail leaving the Holy Places, certain it is they +never remain. The Jews replace one another constantly, coming to ask +leave to die in that fatherland, which in life they have been unable to +regain. The few families established at Jerusalem are not ancient. Each +speaks of the date of his arrival, but is uncertain of the length of his +stay. In the Holy City, therefore, the population is constantly +changing, renewed daily by the pilgrims, and oppressed by a +disheartening uncertainty caused by the despotism and incapacity of the +Government of the Sublime Porte. This of course tends to prevent the +formation of intimate friendships and the fusion of the different races. + +The greater part of the land does not belong to its occupants, but is +the property of the mosques or of the churches, and is therefore called +_Wakf_. There is the _Wakf_ of the _Haram es-Sherîf_, the property of +the great mosque; the _Wakf el-Tekiyeh_, the property of the Hospital of +S. Helena (as it is commonly called); the _Wakf Franji_, the property of +the Latin convent; the _Wakf Rûmi_, the property of the Greek convent; +and in the same way they speak of the _Wakf_ of the Russians, Armenians, +Greek Catholics, Armenian Catholics, English, Prussians, Copts, +Abyssinians, and Jews. Another part of the ground falls by law to these +public bodies in case of the extinction of the families who possess it, +or a failure of the male line. These are called _mulk maukuf_ i.e. +mortmain. Hence it comes that the smaller part only of the soil is +private property (_mulk_); so that, owing to these restrictions, a +single small estate belongs to several owners, and there are many +difficulties and much danger of being cheated in buying land. + +I will now offer a few remarks upon the condition of the different +religious sects, premising that they entertain the bitterest feelings +one towards another, and are only restrained from greater excesses by +the fear that the Turks will profit by their quarrels, and listen to the +highest bidder. The Consuls of the different nations have hard work to +keep the peace, finding themselves of but little power in allaying +strifes; not for want of will and moral courage, but because their +authority only extends to small matters, and they are not properly +seconded by the spiritual heads of the communities, who rather stir up +the disputants and increase the difficulty of restoring peace. + +The most wealthy and powerful, and, in times past (and sometimes even +now), the most distinguished in these contentions are the Latins, +Greeks, and Armenians; and the Turks are never sorry to see them at +strife, as they reap a harvest from both the losers and the winners. +Scarcely had the tempest of war caused by the Crusades passed away, when +these communities began to struggle at the court of the Sublime Porte +for the possession of the Holy Places. Each produced _firmans_ given by +Mohammed, Omar, Saladin, or various Sultans; and the ministers at the +court always decided in favour of the highest bidder, so that the same +place was assigned by different _firmans_ to the Latins, the Greeks, or +the Armenians. In consequence it has happened that one party, believing +itself to be the true proprietor of a particular Sanctuary, has declared +the other an impostor, until the sight of a _firman_ of older date has +shown the vanity of its claims. + +The enmity of the clergy has descended to the people, and frequently, +upon the most futile pretexts, the churches and Holy Places have been +the theatres of fatal encounters between rival nations. The Pashas of +former times (now it is different) gladly interfered on these occasions, +to impose heavy fines upon the weaker party, and to sell impunity to the +strong, who were quite ready to begin fresh disturbances the next day. +At one time the Greeks were driven from the Holy Places by order of the +Porte; now the Latins were subjected to the utmost annoyance; while the +Armenians profited by the discord to establish themselves in the +Sanctuaries belonging to one or other of the disputants, whose claims +they pretended to be supporting. The Catholic Governments lacked the +means, and perhaps the inclination, to interfere directly in such +questions. The ministers of France, Spain, Venice, and Austria, in +Constantinople, sometimes listened to the complaints of the religious +fraternities, to whom the custody of the Holy Places had been confided. +But whether their own governments failed to support them, or whether +that of the Sultan was not found tractable, certain it is that their +applications were seldom heeded; and, in fact, cases occurred of even +personal violence being employed against the French Ministers and the +Venetian _Baili_, or still more frequently, against their subordinates. +Until within a few years past, money was the only way of succeeding in +negotiations with the Porte. Hence it may be understood, as regards the +Latins, how it is that the guardianship of the Holy Land has been so +expensive to Europe[898]. The Franciscans had also the privilege of +acquiring real property and disposing of the alms of the Faithful; until +the Propaganda began to view with dislike such large sums removed +entirely from its control; so in order to inaugurate a fresh system, a +Patriarch was established at Jerusalem in 1847, and assigned as his +revenue the fifth part of the alms received by the Guardians. This +arrangement gave him the right of examining the accounts, and to the +Propaganda upon the management of affairs. He was, however, so +obstinately opposed by the monks, that he was obliged to make a +compromise with them, in which the interests, if not the minds, of the +two parties were somewhat reconciled. The Greeks also were reduced to +the same situation as the Latins; for a community which is obliged to +support its influence at the Turkish Court by the aid of money alone, is +compelled to have recourse to expedients of every sort in order to +obtain it. Consequently, either from the piety of the faithful or the +activity of the monks, the Greek Patriarchate of Jerusalem has amassed a +very large property, consisting of possessions in Wallachia, Bessarabia, +Greece, and other countries, besides its estates in Palestine, and +especially in the neighbourhood of Jerusalem, which are being +continually augmented. The secretary of the Greek convent of S. +Constantine, the Archimandrite Nicoferus, has purchased in the last few +years a number of estates, the value of which is not less than 6,000,000 +piastres, or about £48,000. The property of the monasteries is almost +entirely derived from the legacies left by the monks, who purchase in +their own names, to leave to the convent, which always inherits their +possessions, except a small allowance to the parents of the deceased, if +they are living. The purchase-money, however, must come from the common +chest of the convent, for it is of course impossible that a poor monk +should have the means of buying land to such an amount. However this may +be, the convent ultimately obtains the property, and thus its rent-roll +increases. It still keeps on receiving the offerings of the faithful, +which it lays out in the purchase of real property. This the Franciscans +are now forbidden by the Propaganda to acquire; they are therefore +obliged to subsist, maintain their Sanctuaries, and entertain pilgrims, +on the alms which, to a greater or less amount, are sent to them from +Christendom. + +The revenues of the Armenians are chiefly supplied by landed property, +by the money which they have out at interest on good security, and by +the alms and dues of the pilgrims. They possess the best establishment +in Jerusalem, and their revenues are well administered; but in spite of +that they would not have so much influence as the Greeks and Latins, +were it not for those of their religion who fill high places in the +Turkish government. + +No part of the population furnishes so many subjects for reflexion as +the Jews, who dwell in the land of their fathers, without seeking to +imitate their example. A remnant of their nation, they stay in their +ancient capital, to pray, to weep, and to die, in the land that should +be their own. The greater part live without working, upon the gifts sent +by their industrious brethren in Europe and the East. From this +circumstance it will be easily understood how it is that misery and +indigence prevail among them, because they depend not on labour but on +alms, which diminish year by year, on account of the increasing numbers +who flock to Jerusalem to share them. When these supplies are +distributed slowly, or are scanty, they begin to murmur, and utter the +most unreasonable and shameless complaints against their benefactors. +The sole source of revenue of the Jewish community is the almsbox; and +when its contents diminish, the different congregations assemble and +choose persons, who are provided with papers from the Rabbis, +countersigned by the Consuls, and start as collectors, returning after +long journeys with the fruits of their wanderings. The alms thus +obtained are carelessly and thriftlessly distributed, and not applied to +any useful purpose, consequently these collections are constantly +repeated. Nor are they fairly divided; the truly poor, the sick, the +widows and the orphans, too weak to complain or resist, are often +neglected and defrauded; they cannot write, and therefore are not +feared; but those who can cry aloud and make their discontent heard, who +can give trouble or annoyance by complaints and intrigues, are attended +to and served. Those too who are appointed to distribute the alms are +utterly unfit for the duty, giving no heed and making no endeavours to +qualify themselves for it, since they are neither able nor willing to +make the best of the means committed to them, and secure its being +bestowed on deserving objects. In a word, the Jews at Jerusalem are +unfortunate in those who manage their affairs, for they are men who +neglect good advice, who are servile flatterers when they hope to gain, +and discontented grumblers when they get nothing. Hence it is their own +fault that the Jews are degraded and miserable, because they do not +attempt to repress the abuses that prevail. If the constant arrival of +idle paupers was prevented, the funds would be sufficient for those who +really want. Again, most of those who come are aged men, and unable to +resist the demands of certain Arabs, who term themselves their +protectors. If only the Jews would act with energy against their +oppressors, the Government would attend to them; but, rather than claim +their rights, they submit to those who rob them of their scanty alms. +Formerly they were also oppressed by the Government, which was enough to +account for their unfortunate condition; but since 1855 they have had no +ground of complaint on this score, for Kiamil Pasha and Surraya Pasha +treated them as fairly as all the other religious communities, by +affording a ready ear to their complaints, by discomfiting their enemies +at Hebron, and making the roads safe which they frequent on their +pilgrimage. These Governors have also made laws enforcing cleanliness in +the Jewish Quarter, have protected their rights in the purchase of land +and houses, have admitted them to their parties, and visited their +principal men; so that it is not now the fault of the Pashas if the Jews +still live in dirt and degradation. It would be well if there were a +Board in Jerusalem, commissioned to investigate the motives which bring +settlers into the country, and prevent those from coming whose sole mode +of subsistence would be the alms of others. They might also employ part +of the money entrusted to them in succouring real misery, and the rest +in supporting useful institutions, in purchasing lands, and bringing +them under cultivation. Thus might the Jews be rescued from their +degradation, and at length rendered happy instead of miserable. + +We must also say a few words on the Protestant Mission to the Jews. This +was established in 1840, but can scarcely be said to have met with the +success that the efforts it has made, and the sums it has expended, +deserve. I do not believe that the number of converts, during the 23 +years that the Mission has been in operation, amounts to 150; and a very +small number of these has been won in Jerusalem. Most of them, after +being converted in some part of Europe, come to Palestine to find +occupation, which they have lost in their native country from deserting +the creed of their fathers. On arriving they are assisted and employed +by the Mission; but, were they not thus cared for, I fear that many of +them would relapse. In fact, though these converts read their Bibles, +and rigorously conform to the observances of their new faith, they do +not appear to understand it, and the benefit of the change only shews +itself in their children, who have been brought up in the bosom of the +Christian Church, and are thus free from the memories of the Synagogue, +and not actuated by the interested motives which in some cases have +influenced their fathers. Impostors also have contributed to swell the +ranks of the converts, who have been excommunicated by the Rabbis, or +who wish to avail themselves of some of the advantages the Mission +offers, and who, after they have gained their points, return to their +former allegiance. Nor do the Missionaries meet with much success among +the Jewish residents in the city, or among those who come there to die; +their convictions and their interest are opposed to a change of faith. +Munk[899], himself a Jew, wrote thus a few years ago: "It is needless to +say that the attempts of Bishop Alexander, sent to Palestine under the +auspices of England and Prussia, have up to this time met with no +success;" and I can assert the same of Bishop Gobat. Truth compels me to +state that the Mission has not been successful at Jerusalem, and will +not be (in my opinion) if the wealthy Jews in Europe take care that the +affairs of their brethren in Jerusalem are properly managed. If the +conversion of the Jews be desired, I believe that more success will be +obtained among the larger numbers resident in Europe, than among the +little band of those more strongly attached to their ancient faith, who +are resident at Jerusalem. Since their efforts against Judaism have +failed, the Missionaries have attempted to make proselytes from the +other religious sects, but with little success. I do not wish to enter +fully into the subject, but simply state that the few converts, which +have been won from the other Christian communities, have to be +maintained at the expense of the Mission, or they would be soon lost; +and that the Mission has thus excited the jealousy of the other bodies, +and exposed itself to secret and open attacks. True it is that it +circulates copies of the Bible in all the languages spoken in the +country; but this is not a result of so much value as it appears at +first sight to be. Very many volumes indeed are given away, or purchased +(and that too at a very low price); but how many of them fall into the +hands of men who cannot or will not read, or are bought or taken away by +the monks, and destroyed? Many copies in different languages are thus +lost, which would be most valuable if distributed among more highly +civilized people. It may be doubted, too, whether it is wise to +circulate the entire volume, for often the reader comes upon some +passage which shocks his prejudices, and so the book is cast away in +disgust, because he is not yet able to bear a doctrine so different to +what he has always been taught. + +I conclude this subject by declaring that, in the above remarks, I have +not been actuated by any party spirit, but by the desire of speaking the +plain truth; and I confidently appeal to those who are acquainted with +the real state of affairs at Jerusalem, to bear me out in what I have +felt it my duty to say. + +A few words must also be devoted to the Turks and the Arabs. The former +govern the country; the latter endure their rule, and frequently rebel +against their authority. As slaves they thoroughly hate their masters, +still they are frequently reconciled by common interests, when there +seems a chance of conjointly extorting money from the Christian +communities. It should, however, be said, that there has been a great +change for the better since 1857, owing to the excellent rule of +Surraya Pasha; but still the Mohammedans are a hindrance and an evil in +the country. This is not so much due to any fault in individuals, as to +the bad administration of the Turkish Government at Constantinople. +Their appointments are often bestowed upon the highest bidder, and again +taken away when a higher appears; consequently the man who obtains a +governorship of a province, a judgeship, or any other post, has invested +a portion of his capital in the quest, and comes to his duties with +every intention of refilling his coffers as quickly as possible, since +he cannot reckon upon his stay in office. The subordinates too are +miserably paid, and have hardly a shilling for the necessaries of life; +consequently they have greedy palms, and so oppression, venality, +injustice, and all kinds of evils, are perpetrated. The religious +communities, however, do not suffer as they once did, owing to the zeal +and moderation of Surraya Pasha, the energy of the Consuls, and the +resistance which some of the Ecclesiastical Dignitaries have offered to +grasping cupidity and unjust demands. Among these, however, we cannot +reckon the Orientals, who still submit slavishly, and pay whatever is +demanded, as they are dependent upon the Sublime Porte, and so must +comply with the custom of the country. In conclusion, I may add, that +money is all-powerful with the Turks and Arabs in Jerusalem: gold calms +fanaticism, humbles the proud, renders justice uncertain and the police +blind, opens the prison-doors; in a word, in that city everything has +its price. The effect of this is that self-interest, as I have already +said, prevents any outbreak of fanaticism against the Christians or the +Jews, as the Mohammedans know full well that by this means they would be +greatly the losers. + +A few words must also be said about the proselytes among the different +Christian sects. The insane rivalries among these, far more than true +conviction, produce the greater number of converts from one party to +another. Of this there are many sad examples in Jerusalem. Whenever a +person (I do not refer to Europeans) thinks he is wronged by his own +community, he turns to another, and goes where he expects to find the +greatest advantages. No one can form an idea of this commerce in +religion who has not lived some time at Jerusalem and seen it for +himself. The most trivial matters are enough to make a man change his +creed; but happily the Missionaries and Convents are beginning to open +their eyes to the true state of the case, and do not so readily admit +the new converts into their church, without making previous enquiry into +their character, and the reasons which have produced the change. + +One of the things which excites commerce and brings a little money into +Jerusalem is the system of pilgrimages; and on these I purpose to say a +few words, without entering into details--an endless matter. The +European pilgrims are not so numerous as those from the East, and most +of them are poor, so that they bring more expense than profit to the +Franciscans, in whose convents they are lodged and fed, and by whom +they are conducted to the spots consecrated by the events of the Old and +New Testament. For this the monks ask nothing, though they accept any +gift that is offered; consequently the presents are unfrequent, and +seldom compensate for the expense that the donor has caused. Every +pilgrim is allowed to remain a month in the hospice at Jerusalem, +without any other recommendation than his passport and three days in the +others in different parts of Palestine, provided he be in good health. +When he is ill, according to his rank, he is nursed in the hospice, or +in the hospital, without anything to pay for doctors, druggists, or +attendants. It is plain, therefore, that this philanthropic undertaking +of the Franciscans is on too large a scale, and is a burden to the +convents, besides encouraging knaves and vagabonds, who go on +pilgrimages to pass away the time and live in idleness. A judicious +reform of this unlimited hospitality, and a careful scrutiny of the +papers of such as appear to be vagrants, would be a beneficial change. +Those who think that the pilgrims supply, in great part, the revenues +which enable the Fathers of the Holy Land to bear these heavy expenses, +should know that these come mainly from the different Christian nations, +with whose alms the churches, schools, and houses in which the pilgrims +are lodged, are maintained, and the poor and pilgrims supported. In +order to give an idea of the number of the pilgrims who have availed +themselves of the hospitality of the Franciscans during the last ten +years, I print the following extract from the Archives of the Convent of +S. Saviour: + + Year. | No. of Pilgrims | Length of their + | received. | stay (days). + | | + 1850 | 3611 | 16373 + 1851 | 3797 | 28580 + 1852 | 5696 | 20109 + 1853 | 5574 | 21364 + 1854 | 4620 | 18144 + 1855 | 6874 | 23522 + 1856 | 5470 | 21302 + 1857 | 7196 | 26280 + 1858 | 5809 | 25800 + 1859 | 7116 | 27792 + +Therefore in these ten years 55,763 pilgrims have been admitted into the +different convents in Palestine, who were supported during 229,346 days, +and their offerings cannot have been enough to entertain them for a +third part of their stay, so that the Friars cannot be said to derive +any advantage from them. + +The Latin Patriarchate, though its revenues are small in comparison with +the expenses it has to support, practises largely the virtue of +hospitality, and knows well how to succour the poor and destitute. + +The Protestant Mission relieves the poor, but does not offer to +travellers or pilgrims of its own faith the same advantage as the heads +of the Latin community, who bestow their benefits upon members of other +religious sects with as much care as upon their own. + +The Jewish community relieves its pilgrims from the moment of their +arrival, admitting them into houses appointed for that purpose; but if +the strangers are without means of their own, they have no great cause +to praise the welcome and hospitality they receive. + +The great mass of pilgrims to the Holy City comes, every year, from the +East, consisting of Russians, Greeks, Armenians, Syrians, Copts, +Abyssinians, Maronites, and Mohammedans themselves. The greater part of +these arrive at Jaffa in steam-boats or trading vessels, in which they +are stowed like merchandise, or like negroes in a slave-ship. Not only +men, but also entire families, women, girls, and boys, the aged, the +sick, and the maimed, make the long pilgrimage. These all expose +themselves to bad weather by sea and land, to great privations, and to +all kinds of exactions. They assemble in large companies, carrying their +provisions along with them, besides merchandize for driving bargains, +together with mats for bedding, and cooking vessels, which they load +upon camels, mules, and asses. They, however, in many cases walk, often +bare-foot, making short stages, sleeping in the open air, or crowded +together in a convent; enduring all these fatigues in order to worship +in the places which Christ has consecrated by His sufferings. When they +arrive at Jerusalem they betake themselves severally to the convents +belonging to their own community, and there, after certain formalities, +are distributed into lodgings; where, if Greeks, they are crowded +together in heaps; if Armenians, they are more comfortable; and if +Russians, they have every comfort. I will not weary the reader by +relating what the arrangements of the different communities are with +regard to their pilgrims; but will only describe those of the Greeks, as +they receive the greatest number of all. + +The Greek pilgrims of high rank are conducted into apartments assigned +to them, where they are well lodged and nourished, according to their +importance and dignity. They are not asked for money, but are given to +understand the wants of the community, and the needs of the Church; so +that they pay liberally for the hospitality they have received, and for +the churches and Sanctuaries they have visited. The common pilgrims, +after reposing two days in the great convent of S. Constantine, are +presented to the Patriarch, who receives an offering from each, under +the name of a contribution to the wants of the churches and convents of +his diocese. They are then conducted into the Church of the +Resurrection, where they pass a night in prayer, and make other +offerings to the Guardian of the Sepulchre for the maintenance of the +Sanctuaries. On being brought back into the convent, a plentiful repast +is provided for them, and their names are enrolled for the pilgrimages +to the Jordan and Nazareth, for which they pay a tax. They are then +conducted to their lodgings, or rather dens, in one of the numerous +convents in Jerusalem. On taking possession of these, they pay a sum +proportionate to the expense of their pilgrimage, amounting only to +eight or ten shillings. They must, however, make a present in addition, +to the church of the place, to those who have brought them, to the +Superior who receives them, and to the laics who assist to instal them +in their new quarters. When they are settled, they are taken to visit +the Tomb of the Virgin and all the churches of the convents, where they +pay. They make pilgrimages to Bethlehem, and all the other remarkable +places. They buy relics, ask for prayers and blessings, but always pay; +so that after being entertained at their own expense for four or five +months, and after having expended their resources, many are obliged to +sell their baggage to return to their native lands, taking back with +them the articles they have acquired with so much toil, all of which +however have received a blessing. That they are crowded together, and +may be said to occupy dens rather than lodgings, appears from the fact, +that sometimes eight persons are quartered in a room 16 or 18 feet +square, who have not unfrequently met for the first time, and are from +different countries; so that the reader may easily conceive the +inconveniences they suffer, and the maladies that are caused by the +straitened accommodation, especially when the winter happens to be more +rainy than usual. Notwithstanding all the observations that have been +made on this barbarous manner of lodging, they are always tenacious of +their ancient customs; but as Russia now provides well for her own +pilgrims, it is to be hoped that the Greeks, having more space, will +find some better manner of accommodating theirs. + +With the Armenians the pilgrims are better cared for in every respect; +but they have to pay for everything, as with the Greeks. + +The pilgrims of the different communities are on no better terms one +with another than the convents themselves; consequently quarrels break +out every year, in which, though life is not lost, bruises and blows of +sticks are plentifully bestowed. These contests are most frequent +between the Greeks and the Armenians; and the monks, instead of +attempting to allay the strife, rather excite it. + +I conclude by giving a list of the schools, hospitals, hospices, and +other establishments, belonging to the different communities in +Jerusalem. + +The Jews possess:-- + + 8 Schools (now perhaps more). + 1 Hospital, bearing Rothschild's name. + 2 Houses used as Hospices (now perhaps more). + 1 Large building for lodging the poor, called after Sir + M. Montefiore. + +The Mohammedans:-- + + 1 Military Hospital. + 1 Hospice, called after Saladin. + 1 Hospice of the Kusbeck Dervishes. + 1 Tekhiyeh el-Khasseki-Sultane, where the poor are supported. + A number of unimportant Schools. + Several ruined buildings in the _Haram es-Sherîf_, in which the + poor are lodged. + The Lepers' Quarter. + +The Orthodox Greeks:-- + + 1 Seminary, called after the Holy Cross. + 2 Boys' Schools. + 1 Girls' School. + 1 Free Dispensary. + 18 Convents for accommodating Pilgrims. + A number of houses used for the same purpose, and many others for + the poor of the community. + 1 Printing Press. + +The Latins:-- + + 1 Patriarchal Seminary at Beit-jala. + 1 Boys' School, kept by the Friars Minor. + 2 Girls' Schools, one kept by the Sisters of S. Joseph; the other + by the Daughters of Sion. 1 Hospital of S. Louis. + 1 Hospice of the Casa Nuova. + 1 Hospice, called after the Flagellation. + 1 Hospice (the Austrian). + 1 Printing Press. + 1 Carpenter's shop. + 1 Forge. + Several houses for the poor of the community. + +The Armenians:-- + + 1 Seminary. + 1 Printing Press. + 1 Boys' School. + 1 Girls' School. + Magnificent Lodgings for Pilgrims. + Houses for the poor. + +Protestant Missions:-- + + 1 Boys' School. + 1 Girls' School. + 1 Girls' School, managed by the Prussian Deaconesses. + 1 Hospital under the same care. + 1 Hospice (Prussian). + 1 Hospital (English). + 1 Carpenters' School. + 1 Reading Room. + Some houses belonging to the Prussians. + +Russians:-- + + 1 Hospital. + Magnificent Lodgings for Pilgrims. + +Copts:-- + + 1 Hospice. + Houses for members of their community. + +The other communities have only their convents. + +In a population of only 20,453 inhabitants, where there are so many +schools and so many establishments, it is a great misfortune that no +progress is seen, and that there does not appear to be even the hope of +obtaining it for a long time to come. + + +FOOTNOTES: + +[898] To show the sums received by the reverend Franciscan Fathers of +the Holy Land, I think it will prove interesting if I give the following +account published in a pamphlet, _L'Eco Francescano_, printed at Madrid +in the year 1854. It is an authentic statement of the sums sent by the +Catholic states to the Holy Land between the years 1650 and 1850. I do +not add the details of the manner in which the amount was expended, +because I have not the necessary papers; but I do not exaggerate when I +say that those who have derived the greatest advantage from it have been +the ministers of the Ottoman Porte and their dependents. + + Spanish Reals. + Spain sent 146,362,280 + The Austrian States (Lombardy and + Venice are not distinct) 18,361,680 + France 2,499,420 + Naples 14,091,560 + Portugal 39,685,480 + Sicily 5,275,000 + Rome 2,205,660 + Tuscany 3,290,800 + Island of Sardinia 1,137,700 + Island of Malta 1,439,360 + Piedmont 5,578,120 + ----------- + Total 239,737,060 + +About 11,996,883 francs, nearly half a million sterling, of which not a +centime remains. + +[899] Palestine, p. 653. + + + + +NOTES. + + +NOTES ON CHAPTER I. + +NOTE I. See Eusebius, Hist. Eccles. IV. 2 sqq.; and his book on the +Martyrs of Palestine, chap. 11; Dio's resumé of the history of the reign +of Hadrian; S. Jerome, Letter to Paulinus. + +NOTE II. Neby Samwîl (Prophet Samuel) is a village on the N.W. of +Jerusalem, at a distance of about three hours from the city. From its +summit the Mediterranean and the Dead Sea are visible, and it commands a +magnificent view of Palestine to the East and West. This is not the +place to say anything of this site in its connexion with ancient +topography; I will merely state in passing that I dissent from the +opinion of Dr Robinson, who would identify the place with Mizpeh, the +frequent meeting-place of the Jews (Judges xx.; 1 Sam. vii. 6, 12, x. +17, 24); I believe it to be Ramah. For here is found the sepulchre of +the prophet Samuel, which I have myself seen, and from the earliest +times to this day the Israelites have constantly undertaken pilgrimages +in order to touch even the outer walls which enclose the tomb. +Accordingly I identify the Ramah mentioned in 1 Sam. xxv. 1 and xxviii. +3, and the Ramah of Josephus (Ant. VI. 13, § 5), with the Arab village +of Neby Samwîl. In my book on the tombs of Machpelah, Ephratah, and +Ramah, this point will be discussed at length. + +NOTE III. "He removed thence (from Gabaoth Saul), and came to a place +called Scopus; from whence the city began already to be seen, and a +plain view might be taken of the great temple." (Josephus, Wars, V. 2, § +3.) Titus himself, with 600 horsemen, had made a reconnoitring +expedition before he encamped at Scopus, during which he was intercepted +by a body of the Jews, and had a very narrow escape with his life. +Scopus was, however, the first place from which the main army obtained a +view of the city. + +NOTE IV. Above each of the gates of Jerusalem is inserted a stone +bearing the following inscription, which was translated for me from the +Arabic (Plate VII.): "The Sultan our sovereign, the most potent king, +and illustrious monarch, the lord of the nations, the king of the +Greeks, Arabs, and Persians, the Sultan Solyman (whose reign may God +render happy and immortal!) caused the building of these holy walls, in +the year 941;" of the Hejra, that is, corresponding to 1534 of the +common era. + +NOTE V. I subjoin the following note for the information of travellers, +that they may not have to pass the night outside the Jaffa gate, or on +Fridays lose valuable time. + +The gates of the city are all closed at sunset, the Jaffa gate a little +later, that being the one by which all foot-passengers enter the city, +and by which the inhabitants of the city go out for their walks. A +person reaching Jerusalem after all the gates are closed can procure +entrance by the Jaffa gate only, on obtaining a permit from the +governor. + +Every Friday at the hour of prayer (i.e. from noon to 1 P.M.) all the +gates of the city are closed, and it is difficult to obtain permission +to have them opened. This is done to allow time to the guards in charge +for their devotions. + +NOTE VI. The following are the names of the principal streets of +Jerusalem: + +_Harat bâb-el-'Amud_ (the street of the Column-gate), crosses the city +from North to South; + +_Souk el-Kebir_ (the street of the Grand Bazaar), runs from West to +East, and is the same which in the time of the Crusades was called the +Street of David; + +_Harat el-Alam_ (the _Via Dolorosa_), starts from the gate of S. Mary, +passes to the barrack on Mount Moriah, then after bearing for a short +way to the South in the Tyropoeon valley, takes again a Westerly +direction as far as the Porta Judiciaria; + +_Harat el-Naçâra_ (the street of the Christians), from the Holy +Sepulchre to the Latin Convent; + +_Harat el-Arman_ (the Armenian street), on the East of the Castle; + +_Harat el-Yahud_ (the Jews' street) is situated on the Eastern slope of +Mount Sion; + +_Harat bâb Hotta_, the street that runs parallel to the Temple in the +central valley; + +And many others, which are little frequented, and are not worthy of +mention. + + +NOTES ON CHAPTER II. + +NOTE I. The drainage system of the city is divided into the Southern, +Northern, and Eastern sections, the division of the two former being +marked by the street called the Street of David. The keeping in repair +of the Southern section is the business of the local governor, and in +consideration thereof he receives a fixed annual sum from the Armenians +and the Jews, as inhabitants of that quarter. The Northern section as +far as the central valley is kept in repair by the Latin and Greek +convents, this district containing the quarters of their respective +nations. All the drainage on the Eastern side is under the sole charge +of the governor. The Arabs very seldom take the trouble to look after +their own sewers, but are zealous enough in enforcing the execution of +repairs which belong to the Christian communities; and since the latter +have them executed with an ill-will, and employ men of no experience for +the direction of the works, the drains are choked and flooded almost +every year, and are constantly being opened for repairs; a cause of no +slight annoyance in the city. It was during these works that, for eight +successive years, I had the opportunity of examining their formation, +their respective inclines, and directions, from which I found that they +all run into the central valley (the Tyropoeon Valley of my map), and +thence drain away to the S.E. outside the city, as far as the large +pool, now filled up, below the fountain of Siloam. + +The Christians have been obliged to accept the performance of these and +other foul works since the commencement of the supremacy of the Arabs +and Turks, who have submitted them to the most severe humiliations, and +to the most vile and oppressive tasks. + +NOTE II. On the subject of "cubits" and stadia, I transcribe the remarks +of M. Munk, in his book entitled "La Palestine," subjoining an account +of my own special observations on the subject. + +"The measures of length, called _Middoth_, are generally referred to the +hand and arm; the following are mentioned: (1) _Eçba_ (Jer. lii. 21), +_the finger_, i.e. the breadth of the finger or thumb; (2) _Tephach_ (1 +Kings vii. 26), or _tophach_ (Exodus xxv. 25), the _hand-breadth_, i.e. +the breadth of four fingers; (3) _Zereth_ (Exodus xxviii. 16), the +distance between the tips of the thumb and little finger, or the _span_; +(4) _Ammah_, the whole length of the fore-arm, or _cubit_. The relative +value of these measures is not indicated in any part of the Bible; to +fix it, we must consult Josephus and the Rabbinic traditions. In Exodus +xxv. 10, the dimensions of the ark are stated as follows; length 2-1/2 +cubits, breadth 1-1/2 cubits, height 1-1/2 cubits. Josephus, in the +Antiquities (III. 6, § 5), represents the 2-1/2 cubits by 5 spans, and +for 1-1/2 cubits puts 3 spans: hence the span was the half of the cubit. +The Rabbins agree with Josephus; according to them the zereth is half a +cubit, referring to the mean cubit[A] which contained six hand-breadths, +each hand-breadth being equivalent to four fingers. These data may be +adhered to as exact, because the same proportions recur in other ancient +systems. Thus for example the Greeks had their cubits of 1-1/2 feet, +which made six hand-breadths or 24 fingers; Herodotus (II. 149) speaks +of a cubit of six hands in use amongst the Egyptians. We have then for +the relative values of the Hebrew measures the following table: + + _Ammah_ 1 + _Zereth_ 2 . 1 + _Tephach_ 6 . 3 . 1 + _Eçba_ 24 . 12 . 4 . 1 + +"The knowledge of the absolute value of any one of these would therefore +be sufficient to enable us to deduce those of the rest; but since on +this point we have no positive datum, in the writings either of Josephus +or of the Rabbins, we must be contented with an approximate estimate by +the aid of the Egyptian measures, which modern discoveries enable us to +fix with a certain precision. It is probable, besides, that the system +of the Hebrews was borrowed from that of the Egyptians. The Rabbins +determine their measures of length by the breadth of grains of barley +placed side by side--a custom which also prevails amongst the Arabs and +other Eastern tribes. It is easily seen that there is an uncertainty in +this method of measurement, owing to the unequal sizes of the +barley-grains. Maimonides, who has made minute calculations on the +subject, has found that the Eçba of the Bible is equal to the breadth of +seven average-sized grains of barley[B], which gives for the _Ammah_ +168. It is found by calculations sufficiently exact that the Arab cubit, +which is estimated at 144 grains of barley (that is, twenty-four fingers +of six grains each), when reduced to (Paris) lines and decimal parts of +lines, gives 213.050[C], which would give for the Hebrew _Ammah_ of 168 +barley-grains 248.564 (about 560 millimetres, or 22 inches). This result +is not thoroughly exact, but it will be seen that it does not differ +much from the probable value of the Egyptian measures;--at any rate it +may serve to establish the connexion which existed between the measures +of the Hebrews and those of the Egyptians. + +"But another question presents itself. The learned have attributed to +the Hebrews more than one kind of cubit[D], and while we reject mere +conjectures that have no solid basis, we must at any rate admit two +kinds; the one ancient or Mosaic, used for the measurement of sacred +things, the other modern, for common use. In the second book of +Chronicles (iii. 3), a 'cubit of the first measure,' or ancient cubit, +is spoken of as employed for the measurements of the Temple of +Solomon,--which implies the existence of a modern or common cubit. The +prophet Ezekiel (xl. 5, xliii. 13) in a vision in which he sees the +dimensions of the future temple, speaks evidently of a cubit containing +a hand-breadth more than the ordinary cubit, from which we may conclude +that between the two cubits there was a difference of a hand-breadth. +This difference the Talmud interprets in the sense, that the less +contained only five of the six hand-breadths of the greater[E]; but it +would be more consistent to give them the same ratio as the two +different Egyptian cubits had, i.e. that of 7 : 6, approximately. +Further, it is probable that each of the two was divided into six +hand-breadths; the Talmud speaks expressly of longer and shorter +hand-breadths[F]. The old Mosaic cubit was, without doubt, the royal +cubit of the Egyptians, and the different scales of this still extant, +together with the measurements of several Egyptian monuments, give for +its mean value about 525 millimetres[G] (or 20.67 inches). This result +appears less doubtful since it differs by only 35 millimetres from that +which was found by the very uncertain calculation of the breadth of the +barley-grains. Admitting this, we obtain for the value of the ordinary +cubit 450 millimetres or 433.5 (i.e. 17.71 or 17.07 inches), according +as we take the Egyptian ratio 7 : 6 or that of the Talmud 6 : 5. Each of +these two cubits was divided in the same proportion into two spans, six +hand-breadths, and twenty-four fingers. + +"With measures of length may be classed those of distance, or +road-measures; but the old Hebrews measured their roads in a very vague +and uncertain manner; and as we shall not need to refer to their +measurements in this book, I leave the discussion of them to turn to +those which are necessary. + +"In the Græco-Roman period the Jews reckoned by stadia and miles; which +measures are found in the Old Testament and in the Talmud, as is also +the _Sabbath-day's journey_ (Acts i. 12), which was about 2000 cubits." + +Josephus also often quotes his measurements in stadia, so I will speak +of these. Three principal kinds of stadia are known; the Olympic, +equivalent to 184.95 metres (or 606.8 feet); the Pythian, equal to 147.6 +metres (or 484.3 feet), and lastly the Philæterian, of 213 metres (or +698.8 feet). Through the whole of this work I have adopted the Olympic, +because in the measurements taken in Jerusalem itself, and its environs, +I have found that it alone corresponds with all the distances which are +cited in stadia by Josephus. That author, speaking of the Mount of +Olives, puts it at five stadia from the city, Mount Scopus at seven, the +monument of Absalom at two, Herodium at sixty, and lastly, Anathoth at +twenty stadia. All these distances I have verified, comparing them with +the Olympic stadium, and have always found them exact. Hence it is that +I employ this to measure the thirty-three stadia of the city's +circumference, and the thirty-nine of the lines drawn round it by Titus, +&c. For the sacred cubit of the first measure I have adopted the +Egyptian of 20.67 inches, and for the common cubit that of 17.71 inches, +as a result of the extended observation and study of measurements that I +have made on the old stones which are found in the Eastern wall of the +Temple, or of the Haram es-Sherîf; with considerable difficulty I have +managed to measure many such which have suffered no mutilation, and have +found them to correspond with the ordinary cubits and their aliquot +parts of spans, hand-breadths, and digits. + +In case the reader should desire to examine more minutely the question +of Jewish measures, I refer him to the following works, to which the +numerals in the text above relate. + +[A] David Kimchi's Dictionary, s. vv. 'Zereth' and 'Tephach;' +Maimonides, _Comment. on Mishna_, part 5, tract _Middoth_, ch. 3, § 1, +part 6; tract _Kilim_, ch. 17, § 9. + +[B] Maimonides, _Mische Thorah_, or _Summary of the Talmud_, Bk. II. +sect. 3 (_Sepher Thorah_), ch. 9, § 9. + +[C] Böckh's Metrologische Untersuchungen, p. 247. Bertheau, ch. 1, p. +60. + +[D] Leusden, Philologus Hebræomixtus, p. 211, where four kinds of cubits +are mentioned; the _common_, the _Sacred_, the _royal_, and the +_geometrical_. + +[E] Maimonides, Comment. on the Mishna, tract _Middoth_, III. 1; +_Mishna_, tract _Ketim_; the commentaries of Raschi and Kimchi on Ezek. +xl. 5. + +[F] Babylonish Talmud, tract _Succa_, fol. 7, a. Compare Buxtorf, +Lexicon Talmudicum, coll. 900 and 2370. + +[G] Böckh finds 524.587 millimetres, nearly 232.55 lines. See Bertheau, +c. 1, p. 83. + +NOTE III. The Armenians, in the various new edifices that they have +built on Mount Sion, have found remains of walls, stones, reservoirs and +cisterns of the most remote antiquity, generally at a depth of eighteen +or even twenty feet below the surface, sometimes more. Before my arrival +in Jerusalem, whilst digging for foundations they found a large quantity +of small blocks of limestone of five and seven inches cube, dressed on +every side, and so many in number that they employed them to build high +and long unmortared walls, which to this day surround their property on +the south inside the city. These stones were found collected together in +one place, and were not scattered about: it is not impossible that they +had been prepared to line the walls of a large pool. I say this because +stones of this shape are now found in the pool of Bethesda, but in this +reservoir they are wrought with more accuracy and uniformity. In my own +time, in 1859, they discovered a pool, cut in the solid rock, which +shewed however that the work had not been completed; it was 18 feet +long, 10 broad, and 10 deep. In its neighbourhood were seen traces of +conduits that they had begun to cut out in the rock. + +On the same site I have examined a wall made of blocks of stone roughly +squared, combined with others of a polygonal form; the size of the +stones for the most part being from two to four cubic feet, and all the +interstices between them on the two faces and inside being filled with +small stones well fitted together without any trace of cement. At an +angle where the stones were larger I observed that they were secured +together by means of tenons and mortises of parallelepipedal form cut in +the stone itself. The wall was about 5-1/2 feet broad by 6 feet high; +but it was evident that it must have been mutilated at some time. I +assign it to the age of the Jebusites. + +Another wall, six feet broad, was composed of large irregular blocks of +stone of from four to eight cubic feet. In it could be distinguished +four rows placed one above the other, whose stones were fastened by +clamps of iron or of stone, and in each was discernible more or less +some trace of rude rustic work: in the interstices of the interior were +inserted small stones well packed together without cement, so that the +internal building of the wall formed a solid mass. To their discredit +the Armenians do not trouble themselves about antiquities, and +consequently take no pains to preserve such ancient remains as they meet +with, but destroy or hide them, or avail themselves of the materials for +the building of new walls. + +NOTE IV. In the environs of the city, with the exception of the north +and north-west, are frequently found walls, conduits, and scattered +stones of large size, rusticated or not, and with or without marks of +clamps; but they have been constantly broken up because of the want of +will, and also of mechanical means, to make the most of them, or to +remove them. Owing to this vandalism, the most precious remains of +antiquity are daily disappearing from the soil of Jerusalem. Not seldom +trunks of columns, capitals, pedestals, have been found, but some rude +clown has broken them up, to be able the more easily to transport the +fragments into the city. Sometimes old walls have been broken up by +blasting, without any one's taking the trouble to preserve them, or even +to delay their destruction, so as to allow of some examination of them. +These cases are repeated daily on Mount Sion, on the east of the Mount +of Olives, and on the western side of the valley of Kidron; but never in +any part where it is not known from human memory, or received tradition, +that there have been found remains of Jewish buildings, or large stones +scattered over the soil. + +On the north and north-west I have made various excavations in order to +recover, if possible, one of the Herodian stones of twenty cubits +(Josephus, Jewish War, V. 4, § 2); but after repeated and careful +research I have failed to find a single one, I do not say of twenty +cubits, but even of four: nothing is found there but rock and small +unshapen stones, which do not however give one the idea that they have +ever formed part of blocks of larger dimensions. + +NOTE V. To facilitate the reader's understanding of the allusions in the +course of the work, it is necessary that I should indicate the titles by +which I characterise the different walls and stones which are found at +Jerusalem. + +_Jebusite Walls_. This name and age I assign to those that are built of +unsquared stones of different sizes, some of which are fastened together +by tenon and mortise; the interstices being filled with small stones. +(See Note III.) + +_Walls of David_. By this name I indicate those walls whose stones are +of considerable size and rudely squared, and which present some trace of +irregular rustic-work, and are always fastened by tenons of stone or +clamps of iron. + +_Walls of Solomon_. (See Plate X.) Walls of Solomon I call those that +are composed of large blocks of stone, that have not all the same +breadth and height, and whose rude rustic-work, about two inches in +relief, is surrounded by a flat band of from two inches to two inches +and a half. They are fastened together by tenons and mortises in the +stone itself, or by cubical pieces inlaid, of a different stone from the +block itself, and contain no cement. The various layers of stone one +above the other are in one vertical plane, and diminish in thickness the +higher they rise; but the vertical joinings of the stones of any layer +do not correspond with any regularity with those of a higher or lower +layer (Fig. 1): this kind is especially found in the basement of the +east wall of the Haram. + +By the _wall of Nehemiah_ I mean that which presents many blocks of the +same character with those of the walls of Solomon; but these are joined +together in an irregular manner, that is to say, the several layers are +not formed of stones of equal heights, some stones appear to be turned +upside down, in some the rustic-work is mutilated in places, many are +placed aslant, and lastly, not a few shew the holes where the clamps +have been (that is, the side is put in front); and besides, there are +mixed with these small stones which appear with a portion of +rustication, which shews that the large stones of the old wall have been +broken in order to place them more carefully in their position. I assign +them to Nehemiah, because the Bible informs us (Neh. iv. 17, 18, vi. +15), that he conducted the work in the midst of alarms, the workmen +being all armed, so as to render the walls fit to sustain the assaults +with which their enemies were threatening them every moment. Accordingly +to this they owe the irregularity with which they were formed (Fig. 2). +What I have described may be observed in the east wall of the Haram +towards the southern end. + +_Herodian walls_ I judge to be those which present large squared blocks, +polished with accurate exactness, and joined together without cement, +but with the most delicate care: they have a rustication, much wrought, +standing two or three lines in relief, and surrounded by a band of about +an inch and a half wide. In these walls the sizes of the stones diminish +regularly as they rise higher from the ground, and the vertical joinings +of alternate layers correspond exactly throughout, and are at the middle +points of the stones which separate the two layers; lastly, every layer +is an inch and a half in rear of the preceding. Walls of this kind are +found at the S.E. corner of the Haram, and in its western enclosure +towards the south (Fig. 3). + +_The Roman walls_ are formed of fine squared stones, well wrought, +joined by means of cement. They may be seen on the south and at the +south-west corner of the Haram (Fig. 4). + +The walls built by the Crusaders, or by the old Arabs (Saracenic work), +reveal themselves at once by the economical proportion of the stones, by +the excellent way in which they are joined, and sometimes by their being +formed of rows of different colours, red, white, and black (Fig. 5). + +The Arab walls of the present day are distinguished by their miserable +appearance. + +NOTE VI. At the first entry of Omar into the city he was conducted by +the Patriarch Sophronius to visit the Holy Sepulchre. Whilst he was +lingering there, mid-day struck, whereupon the Khalif went out to +perform his devotions, and retired to the place where afterwards the +little mosque was built;--a remarkable instance of moderation on the +part of the Khalif, seeing that, if he had prayed in the Christian +church, it would by Mohammedan law have been converted into a mosque. It +is owing to this that the sons of Islam have left it to the Christian +worship. The adjoining minaret was built by the Mohammedans at the +expense of the Christians in the 13th century. + +NOTE VII. M. Munk, in his book on Palestine writes, "We enumerate here +the gates of Jerusalem in their actual order, as ascertained, if not +with certainty, at any rate with probable accuracy, starting from the +North-west and passing thence to the West, South and East, so as to make +the circuit of the walls. + +(1) The gate called the _ancient_ or _first gate_ on the North-east; (2) +the _gate of Ephraim_, or of _Benjamin_, on the North, leading to the +allotments of these two tribes; (3) the _Corner-gate_ on the North-west, +at a distance of 400 cubits from the preceding; (4) the _Valley-gate_, +on the West, leading probably to the _valley of Gihon_, and the +dragon-well (Neh. ii. 13); (5) the _Dung-gate_ on the South-west, 1000 +cubits from the preceding (Ibid. iii. 13), apparently the same which was +afterwards called the _gate of the Essenes_; (6) the _Fountain-gate_ on +the South-east, so called from the fountain of Siloam (?), possibly the +same which Jeremiah (xix. 2) calls _Harsith_ (_Pottery-gate_), and which +led to the valley of Hinnom. On the South side, where Mount Sion is +inaccessible, there were probably no gates. There remain still five +gates, which must have been on the East or South-east of the Temple in +the following order from South to North; (7) the _Water-gate_; (8) the +_Horse-gate_; (9) the _gate of the Review_ or _numbering_ (vulg. Porta +Judicialis, Neh. iii. 31); (10) the _Sheep-gate_; (11) the +_Fish-gate_;--the _Prison-gate_ (Neh. xii. 39) appears to have been one +of the gates of the Temple." + +NOTE VIII. The present castle is called by some the Castle of the +Pisans; and Adrichomius says that it was built by them when the Latins +were the masters of Jerusalem. His words are, "The castle of the Pisans, +surrounded by broad fosses, and by towers, was built on the West side of +the city by the Christians of Pisa in Italy, at the time when they +occupied the Holy Land. Where the Pisans formerly were, the Saracens, +and at the present time the Turks, levy a sacrilegious tribute on the +pilgrims to the Holy Land." + +I cannot attribute to the Pisans the entire building of the edifice, but +I grant that they may have restored it in great part. It is certain that +Solyman repaired this castle in the year 1534; the inscriptions above +the entrance tell us thus much. + +NOTE IX. Traditions in the East are very unwavering, a fact recognised +by all. For instance, we are told that the Judgment Hall was near to +the Temple, on the west side; to this day the Mohammedan tribunal is +there, and the Arabs say that their judges sit in the very Judgment Hall +not only of the Crusaders but of Solomon. I grant that the walls of the +building do not indicate that it is of the age of Solomon, but I shall +discuss this building more in detail hereafter. + +NOTE X. _Description of Jerusalem by Tacitus_ (_H._ V. 10-12). + +"Accordingly, as we have said, he (Titus) pitched his camp before the +walls of Jerusalem, and made a display of his forces, having drawn them +up in battle array. The Jews formed their line close under the walls, +where, if success attended them, they could venture further out, and at +the same time had a place of shelter ready, in case they should be +driven back. + +"The cavalry were sent against them together with the light-armed +auxiliaries, and fought with doubtful issue; but in time the enemy gave +way, and on the following days engaged in frequent skirmishings before +the gates, till by their repeated losses they were driven within the +walls. The Romans then prepared to carry the place by assault, thinking +it unworthy of them to wait till the enemy should be starved out, and +volunteered for the dangerous duty of the storming party, some from real +valour, many from a reckless bravery and coveting its special rewards. +Titus himself had Rome with its wealth and pleasures before his eyes, +which seemed to be retarded should not Jerusalem fall at once. But the +city, naturally difficult of access, was further strengthened by works +and defences which would prove sufficient protection even on level +ground. For two hills, which rise to a considerable elevation, were +enclosed by walls scientifically made to slant or bend inwards, in order +that the flank of a besieging party might be exposed to fire. The edge +of the rock breaks off in precipices, and the towers were built to the +height of 60 feet, where the form of the mountain added to the height, +and to a height of 120 in the lower ground, presenting a wonderful +appearance, and at a distance seemingly of equal height. There was a +second line of walls inside surrounding the king's palace, and the +conspicuous roof of the Antonian tower, so named by Herod in compliment +to Marcus Antonius. + +"The Temple was a sort of citadel with walls of its own, superior to the +rest in construction and finish; the porticoes by which the circuit of +the building was made, forming themselves an excellent rampart. It +contains a spring of never-failing water, and large reservoirs hollowed +out under the soil, and pools and cisterns for storing the rain-water. +Its builders had foreseen that frequent wars must arise from the +singularity of their customs, and so had provided everything even to +meet a long siege; and when the city was taken by Pompeius, their fears +and experiences had taught them most of the necessary precautions. And +availing themselves of the greed of the reign of Claudius, they +purchased the right of fortifying the town, and built walls in time of +peace, in apparent anticipation of war--a medley population, its numbers +swollen by the disasters of other cities; for all the most headstrong +men had taken refuge there, and therefore they were more riotous in +their behaviour. They had three leaders, and three armies. The outermost +and widest line of walls was defended by Simon, the middle of the city +by John, the Temple by Eleazar. John and Simon had the largest number of +troops, and the most efficiently armed, while Eleazar had the strongest +position: but internecine fighting, treachery, and incendiarism were +rife amongst them, and a great quantity of corn was burnt. In time John +having sent a detachment of soldiers to murder Eleazar and his band, +under plea of offering sacrifice, made himself master of the Temple. In +this way the city split up into two factions, till on the approach of +the Romans harmony was produced by the war from without." + +NOTE XI. _THE PILGRIM OF BORDEAUX'S DESCRIPTION OF JERUSALEM._ + +"There are in Jerusalem two large pools by the side of the Temple; to +wit, one on the right, and another on the left, which Solomon made. +Inside the city there be two pools with five porticoes, which are called +Bethsaida: there men with diseases of many years' standing were healed. +The water of these pools is somewhat turbid and of a reddish hue. There +likewise is a crypt, where Solomon was wont to torture the unclean +spirits. There is the corner of a very high tower, whither the Lord went +up, and he that tempted said unto Him, (Cast thyself down from hence); +and the Lord said unto him, Thou shalt not tempt the Lord thy God, but +Him only shalt thou serve. There is also the great corner-stone of which +it was said, The stone which the builders rejected. Also at the head of +the corner and under the battlements of the tower itself are several +chambers on the spot where Solomon had his palace. There too standeth +the chamber in the which he sat, and described Wisdom, which chamber is +roofed by one single stone. There are two large reservoirs for the +subterraneous water, and pools built with great labour. And in the +building itself where the Temple was, which Solomon built, you would say +that the blood of Zacharias on the marble before the altar had been shed +this very day; and the marks of the nails of the soldiers who slew him +are so plainly seen, that you would think they had been planted on wax +over the whole area. Also there be there two statues of Hadrian, and not +far from the statues is a stone much worn, to which the Jews come every +year, and anoint it, and bemoan themselves with sighs and rend their +garments, and so depart. There is also the house of Hezekiah, king of +Judah. Also as you go out into Jerusalem to go up mount Sion, below you +on the left in the valley hard by the wall is a pool which is called +Siloam. It has four porches, and another large pool without. Its spring +runs for six days and nights, but on the seventh is an entire Sabbath, +and it runs not by night nor by day. Continuing along the same road up +mount Sion, you may see the place where was the house of Caiaphas the +priest, and to this time the column still remains where they scourged +Jesus. Within the walls of Sion is seen the place where David had his +palace, and of seven synagogues which were there one only remains; the +rest are ploughed and sown over, as the prophet Esaias foretold. Then to +proceed outside the wall, as you go from Sion to the Neapolitan gate, on +the right in the valley below are the walls where was once the palace of +Pontius Pilate; there our Lord had hearing before He suffered. On the +left is the hill of Golgotha, where the Lord was crucified. About a +stone's throw thence is the crypt where His body was laid, and on the +third day He rose again: on this spot Constantine the Emperor has +erected lately a basilica, or church, of wondrous beauty, having at the +side reservoirs from which water is drawn, and behind it a bath where +children are baptized. + +"Also at Jerusalem, as you go to the Eastern gate, to climb the slope of +the Mount of Olives, on the left is the valley, called the Valley of +Jehoshaphat, where are the vines, and the stone where Judas Iscariot +betrayed Christ; while on the right is the palm-tree from which the +children plucked the boughs, as Christ entered the city, and strewed +them in the way before Him. Not far thence, about a stone's throw, are +two monumental columns of wondrous beauty: on one was placed the statue +of the prophet Isaiah, a true monolith, and on the other Hezekiah, the +king of the Jews. Thence you ascend the Mount of Olives, where the Lord +taught His Apostles before His Passion. There a basilica was built by +order of Constantine. Not far thence is the mountain whither the Lord +went out to pray, when He took with Him Peter and John, and there +appeared unto them Moses and Elias. Eastward thence at 1500 paces is a +village called Bethany, in which is a crypt where Lazarus was laid, whom +the Lord raised to life." + +NOTE XII. _Description of Jerusalem during the occupation of the Franks, +extracted from the Universal Geography of Edrisi, who wrote at the +middle of the 12th century._ + +"JERUSALEM. + +"_Beït el-Mocaddas_ (Jerusalem) is an illustrious and ancient city, full +of ancient monuments. It bears the name of Ilia (_Ælia Capitolina_). +Situated on a mountain easy of access on every side," (Edrisi was +mistaken, or has been mistranslated), "it extends from West to East. On +the West is the gate called _El-Mihrab_; beneath is the cupola of David +(to whom God be merciful): on the East the gate called the Gate of +Mercy, which is generally shut, being opened only on the Feast of Palms; +to the South the gate of _Seihun_ (Sion); on the North the gate called +the Gate of _'Amud el-Ghorab_. Starting from the western gate, or gate +of _El-Mihrab_, you go in an easterly direction by a broad street, till +you come to the great Church of the Resurrection, called by Mohammedans +_Comamé_. This church is the object of the pilgrimage of Christians from +all countries of the East and the West. Entering by the western door you +find yourself under a cupola which covers the whole enclosure, and which +is one of the most remarkable sights in the world. The church itself is +beneath this door, and it is not possible to go down into the lower part +of the building on this side; the descent is made on the north side by a +door which opens at the top of a long staircase of thirty steps, which +door is called _Bâb Sitti Mariam_. At the entrance of the church the +spectator finds the Holy Sepulchre, a building of considerable size, +with two doors, and surmounted by a cupola of very solid construction, +built with admirable skill; of these two doors one, on the north side, +faces the door of S. Mary, the other faces the South, and is called _Bâb +es-Salubié_ (door of the Crucifixion): on this side is the peristyle of +the church, in front of which, towards the east, is another church of +considerable size and note, where the Christians celebrate their holy +offices and make their prayers and oblations. + +"On the east of this church, by a gentle descent, you come to the prison +where the Lord Messiah was confined, and to the place where he was +crucified. The large dome has a circular opening to the sky, and all +round it and in the interior are seen pictures representing the +Prophets, the Lord Messiah, S. Mary his mother, and S. John Baptist. +Among the lamps which are hung above the Holy Sepulchre are +distinguished three which are of gold and are placed in a particular +spot. If you leave the principal church, and turn your steps eastward, +you will come to the sacred dwelling, which was built by Solomon the son +of David, and was a resort of pilgrims in the time of the greatness of +the Jews. This temple was subsequently taken from them, and they were +driven out of it upon the arrival of the Mohammedans. Under the Moslem +supremacy it was enlarged, and is (at this day) the large mosque known +to Mohammedans under the name of _Mesjid el-Aksa_. There is none in the +world which equals it in size, if you except the great mosque of Cordova +in Andalusia: for, as I am told, the roof of that mosque is larger than +that of _Mesjid el-Aksa_. To proceed, the area of this latter forms a +parallelogram whose length is two hundred fathoms (_ba'a_) and its +breadth a hundred and eighty. The half of this space, which is near to +the _Mihrab_, is covered by a roof (or rather by a dome) of stone +supported by several rows of columns, the rest being open to the sky. In +the centre of the building is a large dome, known as the _Dome of the +Rock_: it has been ornamented with arabesques in gold, and with other +beautiful works, by the care of different Moslem Khalifs. Beneath this +is the falling stone. This stone is of a quadrangular form like a +shield, one of its extremities rising above the ground to the height of +about half a fathom, the other being close to the ground; it is nearly +cubical, and its breadth nearly equal to its length, that is to say, +about ten cubits (_Zira'a_). Beneath is a cavern, or a dark recess, ten +cubits long by five wide, whose height is about six feet. It is entered +only by torch-light. The building contains four doors; opposite the +western is seen the altar on which the children of Israel offered their +sacrifices; near the eastern door is the church called the Holy of +Holies, an elegant building; on the south is a chapel which was used by +the Mohammedans, but the Christians made themselves masters of it by +main force, and it has remained in their power up to the time of the +present work (1154 A.D.). They have converted this chapel into a +convent, where reside certain members of the order of the Templars, i.e. +of the Servants of the House of God. Lastly, the northern door faces a +garden well planted with different kinds of trees, and surrounded by +columns of marble carved with much skill. At the end of the garden is a +refectory for the priests, and for those who are preparing to enter the +religious orders. + +"Leaving this place of worship, and turning eastward, you will come to +the _Gate of Mercy_, shut, as we have just said, but near it is another +gate by which you can go in or out, and which is called _Bâb el-Asbat_ +(or of the tribes of Israel). Within bow-shot from the latter is a very +large and very beautiful church under the patronage of S. Mary, known by +the name of _Djesmanié_; here is the tomb (of the Virgin) in sight of +the Mount of Olives, about a mile distant from _Bâb el-Asbat_. On the +road by which this mountain is ascended is seen another church, large +and solidly built, which is called the church of the _Pater Noster_; and +on the top is a large church where men and women live a cloister life, +awaiting thus the reward of heaven. On the south-east of the mountain is +the tomb of Lazarus, who was raised to life by the Lord Messiah; and two +miles from Mount Olivet, the village from which was brought the ass on +which the Lord rode on his entry into Jerusalem; this village is now +deserted and in ruins. + +"It is on leaving the tomb of Lazarus that the road begins which leads +to the Jordan, which river is distant a day's journey from the Holy +City. Before arriving at its banks you will pass the city of _Erikha_ +(Jericho), three miles distant from the river. Near the Jordan is a +large church under the patronage of S. John Baptist, served by Greek +monks. The Jordan flows out of the lake of Tiberias, and empties its +waters into the lake of Sodom and Gomorrah, cities which the Most High +drowned as a punishment for the wickedness of their inhabitants. To the +south of this river is an immense desert. + +"As regards the southern side of Jerusalem: leaving the city by the gate +of Sion, you find, at the distance of a stone's throw, the Church of +Sion, a beautiful church, and fortified, where is seen the chamber in +which the Lord Messiah did eat with His disciples, and also the table, +which exists to this day, and is to be seen on Thursdays. From the gate +of Sion you descend into a ravine well known under the name of the +_Valley of Gehenna_ (Hinnom), near which is the Church of S. Peter. In +this ravine is the fountain of _Selwan_ (Siloam), where the Lord Messiah +gave sight to a blind man, who had not before known the light of day. To +the south of this spring is the field which was bought by the Messiah +for the burial of strangers. Not far from it are numerous dwellings cut +out in the rock, and occupied by pious hermits." + +NOTE XIII. I may mention here that one day I caused a trumpet to be +played on Gihon, near the present Pool of Mamillah, and the site of the +Russian buildings, and I heard it distinctly, while standing myself by +the Fountain of Rogel, that is by the well situated at the S.E. +extremity of the Valley of Siloam, the _Bir Eyub_ (Well of Joab) of the +Arabs; while, on changing the position of the player, by sending him +more to the N.W., I heard nothing. Accordingly I can confirm in every +respect the Bible account (1 Kings i. 41), that Adonijah heard the +festive cries of the people and the sound of the trumpets which welcomed +the coronation of Solomon. + + +NOTES TO CHAPTER III. + +NOTE I. The Haram es-Sherîf cannot be visited without the permission of +the Pasha, the Governor of the city, which, though almost always +granted, may be delayed for some days. The Pasha himself never gives +permission to enter the sacred enclosure without having first submitted +the question to the Council of the Effendis, who always give their +consent, not of their own free will, but through fear of displeasing him +who makes the request. When all this is arranged, it rests with the +keeper of the Haram to appoint the time for the visit: the time fixed is +always in the morning, because the place is then almost deserted, and +visitors can converse without fear of disturbing the devotion of the +worshippers. Travellers must apply for the permission in question, +through their respective consulates, and every visitor has to pay a fee +to the keeper and to the escort of police who accompany him, to protect +him from any insult, which at times would be sure to arise on the part +of some bigoted Mohammedan. The payment is fixed by custom at twenty +francs. When the visitors do not pay it themselves, the matter is +arranged by their respective consuls. The Europeans who are admitted to +see the Haram must provide themselves with broad Turkish slippers, or +with two pieces of canvas, to cover their ordinary boots; without this +precaution, they would meet with every opposition to their being +admitted to the places of greater sanctity: they should be careful to +carry no cigars with them, and to conduct themselves reverently, because +else some complaint might be lodged against them, in which case those +who came after them might, through their fault, be refused admission to +the ancient summit of Moriah. I speak from experience. + +NOTE II. I said that by patience, perseverance, and no slight personal +sacrifice, I managed to obtain a knowledge of the Haram, because, though +I had the required permission, the strong protection of the Pasha, the +support of the Effendi, and Mohammedan sympathy, I was nevertheless +obliged to be continually satisfying the greed of my escort, and still +more of the keeper of the Haram, and, I may add, of his children, with +both money and presents. I was obliged also to see them constantly in my +apartments, enduring their company apparently unmoved, although they +threatened every moment to plunder my goods and eat me up with the +little that I possessed. Besides this, it was no rare thing for me to +arrange with the superintendent of the Haram to begin a work, and then +have to wait several months before I could finish it, simply owing to +the whim of a Mohammedan. Appeal to the Pasha was out of the question, +because any violent measure that he might in such case have taken would +have resulted in a thousand new difficulties thrown in my way, and I +should never have succeeded in my design. + +NOTE III. There is an unvarying tradition amongst the Arabs that the +Holy Rock, _Sakharah_, covered by the dome of the mosque, is the same +stone on which slept Israil-Ullah, that is, the patriarch Jacob, and on +which he had the vision of the ladder. Omar himself, when he made his +triumphant entry into Jerusalem, caused a search to be made for it, +inquiring where the stone was that had served for Jacob's pillow. They +agree, moreover, in recognizing in it the ancient foundation of the +Temple of Solomon. + +NOTE IV. The Arabs maintain the belief, that under the Sakharah is a +large well (which they call _Bir-el-Arruah_, i.e. _well of souls_) which +communicates with the nether world; and there are a thousand Eastern +legends relating to it. It may be gathered from all these legends that +there is a well of considerable depth, divided into two parts. In the +lower part exists the universal fountain, which furnishes water to the +whole world, and near it stand the mothers of Jesus and Mohammed working +garments for the souls of the righteous. With respect to the two +cisterns on the north of the mosque they relate, that in ancient times +they served as a receptacle for the drainage, but that subsequently they +were cleansed, and that yet, notwithstanding, the waters are not good, +nor fit to drink. I shall shew further on for what purposes these +ancient cisterns of Araunah's threshing-floor were used in the service +of the different Jewish temples. + +NOTE V. Those who desire more detailed accounts may consult in +particular the following works: Jacob Jehuda Leone, de Templo +Hierosolymitano (in Hebrew), Amsterdam, 1650, in 4to; translated into +Latin by Saubert, Helmstad, 1665; the same work in Dutch (Afbeeldinge +van den Tempel Salomonis), by the Author, Amsterdam, 1679. This author +has confused together in the same description the Temple of Solomon and +that of Herod. Also Bernard Lami, de Tabernaculo Foederis, de Sancta +Civitate Jerusalem, et de Templo ejus, Paris, 1720, in folio; A. Hirt, +der Tempel Salomons, Berlin, 1809, in 4to; Meyer, der Tempel Salomons, +Berlin, 1830, in 8vo; Winer, Realwörterbuch, Tom. II. pp. 661-670. + +NOTE VI. The _bath_, according to Josephus, is equivalent to an Attic +_metretes_, or 72 _xestæ_ (sextarii), or about 8 gallons, 5 pints; (see +Josephus, Antiqq. viii. 2, § 9). + +NOTE VII. "According to the prophet Jeremiah (xxv. 11)," writes M. Munk +(Palestine, p. 461), "the Babylonish captivity was to last 70 years. To +obtain this number they make the time fixed by the prophet to date from +the year 606, which, according to Jewish writers, is the first of the +reign of Nebuchadnezzar; and indeed it was in this same year that +Jeremiah spoke for the first time of the 70 years during which the +Babylonish government was to last (xxv. 12), a statement which he +repeats in the year 599, on the occasion of the banishment of Jehoiachin +(xxix. 10). But in the first year of Nebuchadnezzar there was no idea of +a Babylonish captivity." + +NOTE VIII. See Josephus, Antiqq. XV. 11, § 1. According to the printed +text, the Temple of Zerubbabel wanted 60 cubits of the height of the +Temple of Solomon, which is unintelligible. The corrected reading of +several Manuscripts, which have "_seven_ cubits," is to be preferred. +(Cf. Havercamp's edition, Vol. I. p. 778, Note 7.) + +NOTE IX. The two descriptions of Josephus leave much to be desired, and +the numbers appear in many instances to have been corrupted by the +copyists. They may be supplemented by a third, and more detailed +description, furnished by the _Mishna_, part 5, tract. _Middoth_ +(published separately, with a Latin translation and notes, by +L'empereur, Leyden, 1630, in 4to.). Amongst modern writers the following +may be consulted: Lightfoot, _Descriptio Templi Hierosolymitani_, in +his works, Vol I. pp. 549 and following (chiefly after the Mishna); +Hirt, in the Historical and Philological Memoirs of the Berlin Academy +for the Years 1816 and 1817 (published in 1819). Hirt has exclusively +followed Josephus--his plan has several essential defects; M. Munk has +followed that of Wette (Archäologie, § 238), which is much more exact, +and has combined the accounts of Josephus and the Mishna. + +NOTE X. According to tradition the folding-doors of the Nicanor gate, +which were of Corinthian bronze, had been brought from Alexandria by one +Nicanor, and miraculously saved from a shipwreck. This gate alone was of +bronze; the others were of wood, and plated with gold and silver. See +Mishna, part 2, tract. Yoma, chap. 3, § 10, and the Comments of +Maimonides; Babylonish Talmud, the same treatise, fol. 38. Compare +Josephus' Wars, V. 5, § 3. + +NOTE XI. In the tower _Baris_ were kept the pontifical robes, which were +worn by the High Priest on solemn days: a practice established by the +Asmonean princes, who united in their own persons the chief civil and +religious authority. + +NOTE XII. See Jeremiah lii. 12. According to Rabbinical tradition the +burning of the Temple of Solomon began on the ninth of the month Ab in +the evening; and it was moreover on the ninth of Ab that the Romans +burnt the third temple; accordingly, on this day the Jews, with the +exception of the Karaites, keep the anniversary of the destruction of +Jerusalem. Josephus, however (Wars, VI. 4, § 5), agreeing therein with +the book of Jeremiah, expressly mentions the tenth day of the month Loüs +or Ab. Possibly the date given by the Rabbins, as concerns the third +temple, may have been the result of a different calculation of new moons +from that of Josephus. + +NOTE XIII. From the time of Hadrian, the Jews obtained, for a money +payment, permission to visit Jerusalem once in the year, there to bewail +their humiliation. See Euseb. Hist. Eccles. IV. 6. This state of things +lasted till the time of S. Jerome: the following words are from his +Commentary on Zephaniah, chap. i. "Even to the present day they are +forbidden to enter Jerusalem, and buy the permission to weep over the +ruins of their city." + +NOTE XIV. See Gibbon, chap. 23. The silence which is observed on this +event by S. Jerome, who arrived in Palestine some years afterwards, is, +according to Gibbon, a proof that the pretended miracle had made far +less sensation on the spot than at a distance. + +See also Ammian. Marcell. Hist. lib. 23, c. 1; Rufinus, Theodoret, +Socrates, and Sozomen, in their respective histories; the fathers of the +Church, who were contemporary with the event, admit the miracle, as S. +Cyril, bishop of Jerusalem. See Clinton, Fasti Rom. A.D. 363. + +NOTE XV. Some maintain that the building of this basilica is to be +attributed to S. Helena; but this opinion is not admissible, for +Eusebius who wrote the life of Constantine, makes no mention of it. +There are stronger reasons for attributing it to Justinian, according to +the account transmitted to us by Procopius, his panegyrist, who gives +minute details of its building. See Procopius, de Ædif. Justin. lib. IV. +cap. 6. + +NOTE XVI. Omar found the old site of the threshing-floor of Araunah full +of impurities, and was the first to set the example of cleansing it; the +followers of Islam followed his example, and it was then that the Khalif +determined upon building a sumptuous mosque over the holy rock. + +NOTE XVII. William of Tyre, Book I. Chap. 2. "There are, moreover, in +the same temple-building, within and without, very old monuments in +mosaic work, and in the Arabic character, which are believed to be of +that date, in which the author of the work, and the expense of it, and +the times at which the work was begun and finished, are evidently set +forth:" he adds that the mosque was the work of Omar, "which, after a +short time, being completed successfully to his mind, as it exists at +this day in Jerusalem, he (Omar) endowed with many and countless +possessions." This author repeats that in the interior, and outside the +building, was written the name of Omar its founder. "Moreover, in the +beginning of this volume, we have named the author of this building, the +son of Catab, who, third from the seducer Mohammed, was his successor in +his apostasy and his kingdom: and that this is so the ancient +inscriptions inside the said building and outside it plainly declare." +(Book VIII. chap. 3.) + +NOTE XVIII. An Arab chronicler relates, that "Abd-el-Malek, khalif of +the dynasty of the Ommiades, gave orders for the construction of the +great dome which was then wanting, and sent letters everywhere to inform +the Emirs of his intention. Every one commended his design, and the +people invoked upon him the blessings of heaven. He set aside for this +work the tribute that he collected from Egypt for seven years, and +deposited it under the cupola of the so-called throne of David, which he +turned for the time into a treasury. The charge of this treasury he +entrusted to one Regiah-ben-Havuk, appointing besides, for the +superintendence of the works, Jazib-ben-Salem; and a part of the mosque +to the east having fallen, while the treasury was short of money, he +ordered that the plates of gold with which the dome was ornamented +should be converted into coin. This happened in the year 65 of the +Hejra, or 684 A.D. The mosque was opened to the public at that time +twice a week; on Monday and Thursday. From beneath the Sakharah, the +Mohammedans say, rises the spring of the four rivers of the earthly +paradise, whose waters have the virtue of washing away the sins of those +who drink of them. They believe, moreover, that an angel is appointed to +be guardian of the mosque." (Arab MS. in the library of the Kadi at +Jaffa.) + +NOTE XIX. Khondemir, a celebrated Persian historian, who wrote in the +fifteenth century, attributes the enlargement of the building to Valid. +He is an author worthy of credit. He drew the materials of his history +from the famous library of the Emir _Aly-Schyr_, a virtuoso, and a great +protector of letters. The latter, in the year 904 (1498 A.D.), conferred +upon him the post of librarian. He it is who tells the story of the +cupola at Baalbec. + +NOTE XX. The invasion of the Carmathians having stopped for a time the +pilgrimages to Mecca, the Mosque of Omar took the place of the _Kaaba_, +and for more than twenty years the crowds of pilgrims turned their steps +towards Jerusalem. This interruption of the pilgrimages began in the +year 317 of the Hejra (A.D. 929) under the Khalifate of Al-Moktadar, and +lasted till 339 (950). (See D'Herbelot, s. v. Cods.) + +NOTE XXI. As regards the date of this inscription it is not necessary to +calculate rigorously, whether the works of the building took place after +that period, or began in that year, seeing that the Turkish and Arab +princes date the events of their reign from the day of their accession. +It is the same with the coins which are struck through the whole course +of their reign. + +NOTE XXII. A Christian writer, an eye-witness, says, "that under the +dome, and in the porch of the mosque the blood ran up to the knees, and +up to the snaffles of the horses." Michaud, Histoire des Croisades, Vol. +I. p. 443. Fifth edition. Very inappropriately has M. Chateaubriand, in +speaking of the Crusades, repeated it as a truth, "that the spirit of +Mohammedanism is persecution and conquest, and that the Gospel, on the +contrary, preaches only tolerance and peace." The champions of the Cross +gave this doctrine the lie, written in blood. The Crusaders hardly +remembered even for a few moments that they had come to worship the +sepulchre of Christ; after prostrating themselves in the Church of the +Resurrection, they turned aside to renew the scenes of butchery, which +did not cease for a whole week. More than 70,000 Mohammedans, of every +age and sex, were massacred at Jerusalem: the Jews were shut up in their +synagogues and burnt. (Bibliothèque des Croisades, Tom. IV. p. 12.) + +NOTE XXIII. This building was consecrated by Albericus, bishop at that +time in Syria, whither Pope Innocent II. had sent him as Apostolical +Legate. A number of noble and distinguished personages were gathered +together to witness the ceremony, among whom is mentioned Jocelin, Count +of Edessa, who had come to Jerusalem on the occasion of Easter. "The +legate therefore, having first taken counsel with the prelates of the +churches, on the third day after the holy Passover, together with the +patriarch, and some of the bishops, solemnly dedicated the temple of the +Lord. There were present on the day of dedication many great and noble +men, as well from beyond the seas as from the neighbouring lands, +amongst whom was the younger Jocelin, Count of Edessa, who at that time, +during the solemn festivals of Eastertide, was residing in great state +in the city." (William of Tyre, Book XV. Chap. 17.) + +NOTE XXIV. It is at this period of the Crusades that the mosque began to +be known under the name of "Temple of the Lord," which has often caused +many writers to confound this "temple" with that of the Resurrection, +otherwise called that of the Holy Sepulchre. + +NOTE XXV. The behaviour of Saladin to the Christians is deserving of all +praise: he gave liberty to a large number of poor persons who could not +pay a ransom; he distributed alms to a great number of people; he +allowed the Knights Hospitaler to remain at Jerusalem to take charge of +their sick; and his brother Malec-Adel paid the ransom of two thousand +prisoners. The generous conduct of the Mohammedan chiefs offers, +assuredly, an extraordinary contrast to the barbarous excesses committed +by the warriors of the first crusade: it is a difficult thing to justify +the latter. (See Gibbon, chap. LIX.; Michaud, I. p. 347.) + +NOTE XXVI. Saladin, before reconverting the "Temple of the Lord" into a +mosque, had it wholly cleansed with rose-water, which he had procured +from Damascus. Then he removed all the ornaments and whatever else could +recall the Christian occupation, and set there himself the pulpit which +had been built by Norradin. + +NOTE XXVII. When the news of the discovery of the fountain spread over +Jerusalem, all the people gathered in crowds to see it, but the most +eager were the Israelites. They rejoiced at the sight of it, and pressed +forward, anxious to touch the rock, to taste the water, or to take a +little of it in small pitchers, some in order to preserve it as a relic, +others to carry it to the infirm who could not crawl to the spot. From +the chief Rabbi to the old women, all ran to the place, and all gave +vent to cries of joy, or were moved even to tears. Why was all this? The +Israelites were influenced by a tradition deeply graven on their hearts, +to the effect that when certain springs in Jerusalem had been +discovered, the coming of Messiah was at hand, the temple should rise +again from its ruins, and with it the glory of their nation. + +NOTE XXVIII. The sites where the stones are found greatest in length and +in cubical content in the walls of Jerusalem, are the following: + +In the wall, which starts from the line of the eastern enclosure, at the +north-east corner of the quadrilateral of the Haram (Plate XVII.); one +is found which is about 23 feet in length and 3-1/2 in height. + +Between this and the golden gate, in the wall, is another 12 feet long +and 5 feet high: and in the inner jamb of the golden gate, on the north, +one is found of nearly the same dimensions as the preceding. + +At the south-east corner of the Haram there are some of large +dimensions; there are none greater in the whole city. Of the stones of +20 cubits in length, and 10 in height, of which Josephus writes (Wars, +V. 4, § 2), I have not found a single one on the soil of Jerusalem. + +NOTE XXIX. It seems that the use of the two gates may be attributed to +their being situated in the most frequented part of the city; they +served for the passage, the one of persons going out, the other of +persons coming in, so as to avoid all crowding, and the stoppages which +might result from it. Indeed, on the eastern side of the temple, where a +great part of the Court of the Gentiles was, there must always have been +a great multitude of people. The real ground for its being closed +(though so many ridiculous causes are alleged) is that the Turks +consider the temple enclosure sacred in all its parts. Therefore, they +do not allow any trade to be carried on there, nor any buying or +selling, or transaction of business, or even walking for pleasure: +accordingly, the gate on that side becomes entirely useless, the more +so, that there is in its neighbourhood the gate of S. Mary. + +NOTE XXX. There was a time when the Christians in Palestine adopted the +practice of representing the entry of Jesus into the Temple on Palm +Sunday, entering Jerusalem in procession by the Golden Gate. The custom +may be traced up to the time of Godfrey of Bouillon. On this subject the +reader may consult, as contemporary authorities, Albert of Aix (Book +XIII. Chap. 17) and William of Tyre (Book VIII. Chap. 3, and Book XI. +Chap. 35). + +NOTE XXXI. In the times of Alberto Floresi, an Italian traveller who +visited Jerusalem in 1630, it was by the Dung gate (called also the gate +of the Mogarabins) that the procession entered, which some centuries +before, as I mentioned above, starting from Bethphage, and crossing the +Mount of Olives, passed through the Golden Gate. (MS. Travels of +Floresi, communicated to the Abbé Mariti by Dr Octavio Targioni +Tozzetti, L'État présent de Jérusalem, p. 21.) + +NOTE XXXII. The Mohammedans say that the mare el-Borak was the steed +ordinarily ridden by the Angel Gabriel, who used often to lend it to +Mohammed to take his night-journeys. They portray it as having the head +and the neck of a beautiful woman, with a crown and wings. + +NOTE XXXIII. Many are the stories which are told of the Golden Gate, as +well by Mohammedans as by Christians: I quote some of them. + +The Mohammedans say that the two divisions of the Golden Gate were made +in memory of the _repentance_ of Adam and Eve, for having disobeyed the +orders which God had given them in Paradise, and at the same time of the +_mercy_ of God shown towards them. Hence they call the southern aisle +the Gate of _Mercy_, and the other, the Gate of _Repentance_. + +There is a general belief amongst Mohammedans that a day will come when +Jerusalem will fall into the hands of a Christian prince, who will take +it on a Friday. This is one of the reasons why it remains a fortified +town. + +The Christians have no less traditions on this head. For example, they +report, that when the Emperor Heraclius returned victorious to +Jerusalem, bringing back thither the wood of the Holy Cross which he had +recovered in Persia, he wished to pass through the Golden Gate on +horseback, and decked out in all the insignia of royalty, but that an +invisible hand held him back, whilst a voice ordered him to dismount, to +divest himself of his regal robes, and to pass that threshold in all +humility; whereupon he was able to pass. + +NOTE XXXIV. "From Sion (we went) to the Church of St Mary, where is a +large body of monks, and countless companies of women, and where beds +for the sick can be provided, from three to five thousand. And we +offered up prayer in the judgment-hall, where the Lord had hearing, in +which is now the Church of S. Sophia. Before the ruins of the Temple of +Solomon, under the street, there runs water from the Fountain of Siloam. +Near Solomon's porch, in the church itself, is the seat on which Pilate +sate, when he heard the Lord. There is a square stone on which the +accused was elevated, that He might be heard and seen by all. On it was +our Lord raised when He had hearing of Pilate, and there remained an +impression of a small, handsome, and delicate foot. By the rock itself, +too, many miracles are wrought: they take the measure of the foot-print, +and tie it over a weak part, which is immediately healed." (Anton. +Placent. Itin. Sect. 23 in Ugolini, Thes. Tom. VII. page 1216.) + +NOTE XXXV. In the year 1118 Hugues de Payens, and Geoffroid de St +Aldemar, and certain other knights, applied for a rule for the formation +of an order. In 1128 the Pope Honorius gave them a charter, which was +adopted at the Council of Troyes in Champagne. The members of this order +took the name of Templars, and wore a white robe with a red cross. Their +name was derived from their having their first house close to the +temple, for King Baldwin had given up to them a part of his palace, to +the south of the temple. (William of Tyre, Book XII. Chap. 7.) + +NOTE XXXVI. The Mohammedans say that in this place King David, during +his life, administered justice in the following way. When he was sitting +in judgment, and wished to know if the deponents in their examination +were stating what was true, he made a chain descend from heaven, and +ordered that each of the two parties who had thus stated their cases +should touch it. When one of the parties had told a lie, at his touch a +ring fell from the chain, and so the wise king learnt which was in the +right. I may be allowed to remark that now the chain no longer descends +from heaven, so we may conclude that all the rings have fallen, from its +having been too much used. + +It is on this same site that David will return to judge the people of +Israel at the final judgment. + +NOTE XXXVII. The keeper of the mosque relates, that when Solomon wished +to build a Temple to the Lord, he called not only men to his aid, but +also the living creatures of the earth. All came together to help him +with all their power; but the _magpie_ sought to disobey Solomon, +whereupon the great King turned it into stone, to be an example to all +those who were disposed not to execute his orders. This is the stone +that the keeper shews. + +NOTE XXXVIII. The mosaics which adorn the interior of the mosque +_es-Sakharah_ above the pointed arches that spring from the columns, and +in the drum which supports the dome, date, according to Mohammedan +Chronicles, from the time of Selim I. and Solyman, but I imagine they +are of still greater antiquity. The internal ornamentation of the dome +has a thoroughly Saracenic character; I conclude that it is perhaps +anterior to Solyman, though there is no doubt that he restored it a good +deal. All the other decorations are of Solyman's time. The Count de +Vogüé has just completed a long examination of the mosques +_es-Sakharah_, and _el-Aksa_, and we may fairly expect that he, with his +clear judgment, and ready intelligence, will not deprive science of the +result of his labours. + +NOTE XXXIX. The Mohammedan traditions concerning this rock are numerous; +I quote a few of them. It has been the scene of the prayers of Abraham, +Isaac, Jacob, David, Solomon, Mohammed, and many other prophets, and +here they have received their inspiration from heaven. The rock retains +the imprint of the foot of the patriarch Enoch, who was the handsomest, +and the wisest man that lived upon the earth. He was learned in +astronomy, in which he made great discoveries, and, to publish them, +invented printing. God loved him so that he would not let him die, but +translated him to heaven. The patriarch had such an attachment to +Jerusalem, that he wished to leave some memorial of his having lived +there, which accounts for his foot-print being there. + +The rock is guarded by an army of Angels, who keep watch there night and +day, in prayer to God. The canvas covering which is found on the rock is +the same which was used by Adam and Eve, when the former found the +latter after their separation of a hundred years, consequent on their +expulsion from Paradise. + +The stairs which lead into the vaults of the mosque contain the stone +called _the tongue_, because it announced to Omar, that this was the +rock on which Jacob had the vision. + +NOTE XL. The Mohammedans say that it is supported in the air by the +following cause. When Mohammed died, and ascended to heaven, the sacred +stone wished to follow him, but the prophet ordered it to return to its +place; whilst it hesitated the angel Gabriel pressed it down (this is +the reason why they show the impression of his five fingers on the +rock), and then it lowered itself again; but when it was already in +contact, as it were, with the ground, and received no further orders, it +remained in the position in which it is now found. + +NOTE XLI. By the side of the _Minbar_, the Mohammedan guide, with all +seriousness, points out the place where is an invisible balance, which +is called _Wezn_, and tells how at the end of the world there will be +three ages: and then Israfil, who has charge of the celestial trumpet +(called _Boru_), will blow it the first time to give notice of the +universal death. It will sound for the second time 40 years afterwards, +and then all the dead of past ages shall rise: on that day Jesus, with +the other prophets, will descend from heaven with their attendants, and +when they have come to the _Haram es-Sherîf_ Jesus will sit upon His +throne for judgment: but not being sufficient in Himself for all, He +will depute David and Solomon to judge the Jews, Mohammed to judge the +Mohammedans, and will retain the Christians for His own jurisdiction. In +this great Judgment the balance _Wezn_ will be used to decide who are to +enjoy eternal felicity, and who to be punished by being appointed their +portion for ever in fire with the fallen spirits. All those who are to +undergo this trial will be gathered together in the Valley of +Jehoshaphat. + +NOTE XLII. Terrace-roofs have always been in general use in the East, +even for ages; compare Judges xvi. 27, where we are told that there were +people on the roof when Samson made the temple of Dagon fall. Assuredly +if it had not been flat, 3000 persons could not have remained upon it. + + +NOTES TO CHAPTER IV. + +NOTE I. The Holy City, by the Rev. George Williams, B.D., Fellow of +King's College, Cambridge; Second Edition, including an Architectural +History of the Church of the Holy Sepulchre at Jerusalem, by the Rev. +Robert Willis, M.A., F.R.S., Jacksonian Professor in the University of +Cambridge, 2 Vols. 8vo. 1849; Les Églises de la Terre Sainte, par le +Comte Melchior de Vogüé. + +NOTE II. List of the bishops of Jerusalem, extracted from Michel le +Quien's Oriens Christianus, Tom. III. pp. 139 sq. Paris, 1740. + + A.D. + + 30. S. James, the Apostle and brother of our Lord. + 60. S. Simeon, or Simon, the Martyr. + 107. Justus, or Jude I. + 111. Zacchæus, or Zacharias. + Tobias. + Benjamin. + John I. + Matthias, or Matthew. + Philip. + 125. Seneca. + Justus II. + Levi. + Ephraim. + Joseph. + Jude II. + +All the above are of Hebrew extraction. The following are of Gentile +origin. The former were bishops of Jerusalem, properly so called, the +latter bishops of Ælia Capitolina, who are counted as bishops of +Jerusalem. + + 136. Marcus. + 156. Cassianus. + Publius. + Maximus I. + Julian I. + Caius I., or Gaius. + Symmachus. + Caius II. + Julian II. + Capito. + 185. Maximus II. + Antoninus. + Valens. + Dolichianus. + Narcissus. + Dius. + Germanion. + Gordius. + Narcissus (a second time). + 212. Alexander, martyr. + 250. Mazabanes. + 265. Hymenæus. + 298. Zabdas. + 302. Hermon. + 313. Macarius I. During his episcopate Constantine laid the + foundations of the Church of the Resurrection in Jerusalem. + 335. Maximus III., who consecrated the Church of the Resurrection. + +NOTE III. Eusebius, Life of Constantine, book III. chap. 27 and +following (English Translation, Bagster and Sons, London, 1845). After +giving an account of the demolition of the temple of Venus, he proceeds, +"Nor did the Emperor's zeal stop here; but he gave further orders that the +materials of what was then destroyed should be removed, and thrown as far +from the spot as possible; and this command was speedily executed. The +emperor, however, was not satisfied with having proceeded thus far: once +more, fired with holy ardour, he directed that the ground itself should be +dug up to a considerable depth, and the soil, which had been polluted by +the foul impurities of demon worship, transported to a far distant place. +This also was accomplished without delay. But as soon as the original +surface of the ground, beneath the covering of earth, appeared, +immediately, and contrary to all expectation, the venerable and hallowed +monument of our Saviour's resurrection was discovered. Then indeed did +this most holy cave present a most faithful similitude of His return to +life, in that, after lying buried in darkness, it again emerged to light, +and afforded to all who came to witness the sight, a clear and visible +proof of the wonders of which that spot had once been the scene." + +Chap. XXXI. (_Continuation of a Letter from Constantine to the Bishop +Macarius._) "It will be well therefore for your sagacity to make such +arrangements and provision of all things needful for the work, that not +only the church itself as a whole may surpass all others whatsoever in +beauty, but that the details of the building may be of such a kind that +the fairest structures in any city of the empire may be excelled by this. +And with respect to the erection and decoration of the walls, this is to +inform you that our friend Dracilianus, the deputy of the Prætorian +Prefects, and the governor of the province, have received a charge from +us. For our pious directions to them are to the effect that artificers and +labourers, ... shall forthwith be furnished by their care. And as to the +columns and marbles, whatever you shall judge, after actual inspection of +the plan, to be especially precious and serviceable, be diligent to send +information to us in writing, in order that whatever materials, and in +whatever quantity we shall esteem from your letter to be needful, may be +procured from every quarter, as required. With respect to the roof of the +church, I wish to know from you whether in your judgment it should be +ceiled, or finished with any other kind of workmanship. If the ceiling be +adopted, it may also be ornamented with gold." + +Chap. XXXIII. "This was the emperor's letter; and his directions were at +once carried into effect. Accordingly, on the very spot which witnessed +the Saviour's sufferings, a new Jerusalem was constructed, over against +the one so celebrated of old, which, since the foul stain of guilt brought +upon it by the murder of the Lord, had experienced the last extremity of +desolation, the effect of Divine judgment on its impious people. It was +opposite this city that the emperor now began to rear a monument to the +Saviour's victory over death." + +Chap. XXXIV. &c. _Description of the Holy Sepulchre._ "This monument, +therefore, first of all, as the chief part of the whole, the emperor's +zealous magnificence beautified with rare columns, and profusely enriched +with the most splendid decorations of every kind. The next object of his +attention was a space of ground of great extent, and open to the pure air +of heaven. This he adorned with a pavement of finely-polished stone, and +enclosed it on three sides with porticoes of great length. For at the side +opposite to the Sepulchre, which was the eastern side, the church itself +was erected; a noble work rising to a vast height, and of great extent +both in length and breadth. The interior of this structure was floored +with marble slabs of various colours; while the external surface of the +walls, which shone with polished stones, accurately fitted together, +exhibited a degree of splendour in no respect inferior to that of marble. +With regard to the roof, it was covered on the outside with lead, as a +protection against the rains of winter. But the inner part of the roof, +which was finished with sculptured fretwork, extended in a series of +connected compartments, like a vast sea, over the whole church; and being +overlaid throughout with the purest gold, caused the entire building to +glitter as it were with rays of light. + +"Besides this were two porticoes on each side, with upper and lower ranges +of pillars, corresponding in length with the church itself; and these also +had their roofs ornamented with gold. Of these porticoes, those which were +exterior to the church were supported by columns of great size, while +those within these rested on piles of stone beautifully adorned on the +surface. Three gates, placed exactly east, were intended to receive those +who entered the church. + +"Opposite these gates the crowning part of the whole was the hemisphere," +(apparently an altar of a hemicylindrical form,) "which rose to the very +summit of the church. This was encircled by twelve columns, (according to +the number of the apostles of our Saviour,) having their capitals +embellished with silver bowls of great size, which the emperor himself +presented as a splendid offering to his God. + +"In the next place, he enclosed the atrium which occupied the space +leading to the entrances in front of the church. This comprehended, first +the court, then the porticoes on each side, and lastly the gates of the +court. After these in the midst of the open market-place, the entrance +gates of the whole work, which were of exquisite workmanship, afforded to +passers by on the outside a view of the interior, which could not fail to +inspire astonishment." + +Such is Eusebius' account of the first Church of the Holy Sepulchre at +Jerusalem: he makes no mention of Calvary, and I make no doubt that, if +its site had then been discovered, the historian of Constantine would +not have passed it over without notice. + +An eye-witness of the magnificence of Constantine's Church is found in +the Pilgrim of Bordeaux, who visited Jerusalem about 333 or 334. He +speaks of it in his description of the Holy City, quoted in the notes to +the first chapter. + +NOTE IV. _Description of S. Arculf, who visited the Holy places in 680_ +(Acta Sanctorum ordinis S. Benedicti. Sæc. III. part 2, p. 504). + +"On these points we have inquired very particularly of S. Arculf, and +specially concerning the Sepulchre of our Lord, and the church erected +over it, the plan of which he drew for us upon a waxen tablet. It is a +large church built entirely of stone, forming a perfect circle, and +rising from its foundations with three walls. Between each pair of walls +is a broad space forming a corridor, and at three points in the middle +wall are three altars of wonderful workmanship. This round church is +occupied by the three altars above mentioned, one facing the south, +another the north, and the third towards the west. It is supported by +twelve stone columns of wondrous size. It has eight doors, or entrances, +through the three walls with the corridors intervening, four of which +doors face the south-east, while the rest face the east. In the middle +space of the inner circle is a round grotto cut in the solid rock, in +which nine men can pray standing, and the roof of which is about a foot +and a half above the head of a man of ordinary stature. The entrance to +this grotto is on the eastern side, and the whole of the exterior is +covered with choice marble, the apex being adorned with gold, and +supporting a golden cross of considerable size. Within, on the north +side of this grotto, is the tomb cut out of the same rock: but the floor +of the grotto is lower than the level of the tomb, for from the former +to the lateral margin of the tomb is a height of about three palms. + +"In this place we must mention a discrepancy of names between the +monument and the tomb; for the round grotto mentioned above is otherwise +called the Monument of the Evangelist: and they say, that to the mouth +of this the stone was rolled, and from it rolled away, at our Lord's +resurrection; while the name of sepulchre is applied to the chamber +within the grotto that is on the north side of the monument, in which +the Lord's body lay wrapt in fine linen. The length of this S. Arculf +measured with his own hands, and found it to be seven feet. This tomb is +not, as some persons wrongly imagine, divided in two by a stone cut out +of the wall, itself forming a space for two legs and thighs, by coming +between and separating them; but is undivided from the head to the foot, +with sufficient room for one man lying upon his back, so forming a kind +of cavern with an entrance at the side opposite to the south part of the +monumental chamber. It has a low apex projecting above it, carved in the +rock, and contains twelve lamps burning continually day and night, +corresponding to the number of the twelve apostles. Four of these are +placed at the foot of the sepulchral couch, and the other eight towards +the head, on the right hand side, all of them being constantly fed with +oil. + +"As to the stone which after our Lord's crucifixion and burial was +rolled to the mouth of the said monument by the united efforts of many +men, Arculf relates that he found it broken in two parts. The lesser +part, squared by the chisel, forms the altar which stands before the +entrance of the aforesaid round church, while the larger, also chiselled +like the former, is the square altar, covered with linen cloths, on the +eastern side of the same. + +"As regards the colours of the stone out of which the aforementioned +grotto is hollowed by the tools of the stone-workers, with the Lord's +Sepulchre on its north side cut from the same rock as the grotto itself, +Arculf told me in answer to my questions, that the said grotto of the +monument of our Lord, being covered with no ornament within, bears to +this day upon its vaulted surface the marks of the tools used by the +masons and stone-workers in the work: but the colour of the said stone +appears not to be uniform, but a mixture of two, to wit, red and white, +and the said stone is shewn as the stone of two colours. + +"This round church, so often mentioned above, which is called the +Anastasis, or Resurrection, and is built on the spot which witnessed our +Lord's resurrection, is joined on the right by a square church dedicated +to S. Mary the mother of God. + +"Moreover another large church is built on the eastern side on the spot +which is called in the Hebrew Golgotha: from the ceiling of which is +suspended by ropes a brazen wheel with lamps, and beneath it is a large +silver cross fixed in the very place where stood the wooden cross on +which the Saviour of the human race suffered. + +"Adjoining this square-built church on the site of Calvary, on the east, +is the famous stone church built with great magnificence by the Emperor +Constantine, and called the Martyrdom, erected, as they say, in the +place where the cross of our Lord and the other two crosses were found +by divine revelation, two hundred and thirty-three years after they had +been buried. Between these two churches is the famous spot where the +patriarch Abraham built an altar, and laid upon it the bundle of wood, +and seized the sword already drawn from its scabbard to sacrifice his +son Isaac; where is now a wooden table of moderate size, on which the +offerings of the people for the poor are deposited. + +"Between the Anastasis or round church so often mentioned above, and the +basilica of Constantine, a short open street extends to the church on +Golgotha, in which are lamps burning night and day. Also between the +basilica on Golgotha and the Martyrdom is a seat, in which is the cup of +the Lord, which, after blessing it with His own hand during the supper +before His passion, He Himself handed to the Apostles that sate at meat +with Him. It is a silver cup, holding about a French quart, and having +two handles set over against each other on opposite sides. In this cup +is the sponge, which they that crucified our Lord filled with vinegar, +and put upon hyssop, and held up to His mouth. From this same cup, it is +said that our Lord drank in company with His Apostles after His +resurrection." + +NOTE V. _Extracts from the description of Sæwulf._ (Translated in Mr +Wright's "Early Travels in Palestine.") + +"The entrance to the city of Jerusalem is from the west, under the +citadel of King David, by the gate which is called the Gate of David. +The first place to be visited is the Church of the Holy Sepulchre, +called the Martyrdom, not only because the streets lead most directly to +it, but because it is more celebrated than all the other churches.... In +the middle of this church is our Lord's Sepulchre, surrounded by a very +strong wall and roof, lest the rain should fall upon the Holy Sepulchre, +for the church above is open to the sky.... In the court of the church +of our Lord's Sepulchre are seen some very holy places, namely, the +prison in which our Lord Jesus Christ was confined after He was +betrayed, according to the testimony of the Assyrians; then, a little +above, appears the place where the holy cross and the other crosses were +found, where afterwards a large church was built in honour of Queen +Helena, which however has since been utterly destroyed by the Pagans; +and below, not far from the prison, stands the marble column to which +our Lord Jesus Christ was bound in the common hall, and scourged with +most cruel stripes. Near this is the spot where our Lord was stripped of +His garments and clad in a purple robe by the soldiers, and crowned with +the crown of thorns, and they parted His raiment amongst them, casting +lots. Next we ascend Mount Calvary, where the patriarch Abraham raised +an altar, and prepared, by God's command, to sacrifice his own son; +there afterwards the Son of God, whom he prefigured, was offered up as a +sacrifice to God the Father for the redemption of the world. The rock of +that mountain remains a witness of our Lord's passion, being much +cracked near the hole, in which our Lord's cross was fixed, because it +could not suffer the death of its Maker without rending, as we read in +the Passion, 'and the rocks rent.' Below is the place called Golgotha, +where Adam is said to have been raised from the dead by the stream of +the Lord's blood which fell upon him, as is said in the Lord's Passion, +'And many bodies of the saints which slept arose.' But in the Sentences +of S. Augustine, we read that he was buried at Hebron, where also the +three patriarchs were afterwards buried with their wives; Abraham with +Sarah, Isaac with Rebecca, and Jacob with Leah; as also the bones of +Joseph which the children of Israel carried with them from Egypt. Near +the place of Calvary is the church of S. Mary, on the spot where the +body of our Lord, after having been taken down from the cross, was +anointed with spices and wrapt in a linen cloth or shroud. + +"At the head of the church of the Holy Sepulchre, in the wall outside, +not far from the place of Calvary, is the place called _Compas_, which +our Lord Jesus Christ Himself signified and measured with his own hands +as the middle of the world, according to the words of the Psalmist, 'For +God is my King of old, working salvation in the midst of the earth.' +Some say that this is the place where our Lord Jesus Christ first +appeared to Mary Magdalene, while she sought Him weeping, and thought He +had been a gardener, as is related in the Gospel. + +"These most holy places of prayer are contained in the court of our +Lord's Sepulchre, on the east side. In the sides of the church itself +are attached, on one side and the other, two most beautiful chapels in +honour of S. Mary and S. John, who, sharing in our Lord's sufferings, +stationed themselves one on each side of Him. On the west wall of the +chapel of S. Mary is seen the portrait of the mother of our Lord, who +once, by speaking wonderfully through the Holy Spirit, in the form in +which she is here painted, comforted Mary the Egyptian, when she +repented with her whole heart, and sought the help of the mother of our +Lord, as we read in her life. + +"On the other side of the church of S. John is a very fair monastery of +the Holy Trinity, in which is the place of the baptistery, to which +adjoins the chapel of S. James the Apostle, who first filled the +pontifical chair at Jerusalem. These are all so composed and arranged, +that any one standing in the furthest church may clearly scan the five +churches from door to door. + +"Without the gate of the Holy Sepulchre, to the south, is the church of +S. Mary, called the Latin, because the monks there perform divine +service in the Latin tongue; and the Assyrians say that the blessed +mother of our Lord, at the crucifixion of her Son, stood on the spot now +occupied by the altar of this church. Adjoining this church is another +church of S. Mary, called the Less, occupied by nuns who serve devoutly +the Virgin and her Son. Near which is the Hospital, where is a +celebrated monastery founded in honour of S. John the Baptist." + +NOTE VI. William of Tyre, VIII. 3. "On the eastern slope of the same +hill is the Church of the Resurrection in the form of a rotunda, which +being situated on the slope, and almost over-topped by the hill close to +it, and so darkened, has a roof composed of beams placed upright, and +wrought together by wondrous art into the shape of a crown, uncovered, +and always open, by which the necessary light is conveyed into the +church. Under this opening is the tomb of our Saviour. Beyond the +entrance for the Latins is the scene of our Lord's passion, which is +called Calvary, or Golgotha; where it is said that the wood of the +life-giving cross was found, and where our Saviour's body, having been +taken down from the cross, is said to have been embalmed with spices and +wrapt in fine linen, as was the Jews' custom of burial. Beyond the +limits of the Calvary aforesaid are many small houses of prayer. But +after that the Christians, by the help of the divine goodness, occupied +the city with a strong hand, the aforesaid building appeared to them too +contracted, and by enlarging the church with most solid and excellent +work, and enclosing the old building within the new, they succeeded +wonderfully in putting together in one the aforementioned places." + +John of Würtzburg, who visited the Holy Land in the twelfth century, +when the Crusaders had already completed their works in the Church of +the Resurrection, has transmitted to us a valuable detailed description, +the principal passages of which I quote: "Whilst everything was in +preparing for the crucifixion," he says, "our Lord was kept bound in a +place at some distance from Calvary, which served as a prison: this +place is marked by a chapel, and is called to this day the prison of our +Lord, and is on the side opposite to Calvary, on the left of the +church.... To the right of the entrance in the greater church is a place +forming a portion of Calvary, in whose upper part is shewn a rent in the +rock. In the same is depicted in fine mosaic work the Passion of Christ, +and His burial, together with the testimony of the prophets, agreeing on +all sides with the fact. + +"In the middle of the choir, not far from the site of Calvary, is a spot +where an altar has been formed of raised slabs of marble, supported by a +trellis of iron. Beneath these slabs are some small circles traced in +the pavements, which, they say is the centre of the earth, according to +the saying, 'In the middle of the earth He hath wrought salvation.' + +"A building of large dimensions, erected in a circular form round the +monument, has at its further end a continuous wall adorned by different +statues, and lighted by several lamps. In the inner circle of this +larger building are eight round columns, on square bases, adorned on +the outside with the same number of square slabs of marble, and erected +all round the building, so as to sustain the weight of the building and +the roof, which, as we have said, is open in the middle. + +"We have said that the columns are placed round the building to the +number above mentioned, but towards the east their positions and number +have been altered, owing to the addition of a new building, which has +its entrance-door on that side. This new church, just added, contains a +wide and roomy choir, and a spacious chapel, in which is the high altar, +consecrated to the honour of the Anastasis, or Resurrection, as the +mosaic above it distinctly proves. For in it Christ is depicted as +having broken the bars of hell, and rising again from the dead, and as +bringing back thence our first father Adam. Without this chapel, and +within the cloisters, is a wide corridor leading round the new building +and also the older building of the monument aforesaid, suited for a +procession. At the head of the said new church, towards the east and +close to the choir-screen, is a well-lighted subterranean passage like a +crypt, in which Queen Helena is said to have found our Lord's cross. +Accordingly there is within an altar dedicated to the honour of the said +S. Helena. The greater part of the sacred wood she took with her to +Constantinople, the remainder however was left at Jerusalem, and is +carefully and reverently kept in a certain place on the other side of +the church opposite to Calvary." + +NOTE VII. The whole of the dome has been covered with sheet-lead, which +has disappeared on the south-west side (Plate XXXI.), where are the +Greek terrace-roofs. Consequently the damp is every day destroying the +wooden supports, and in the absence of such covering the ground below is +flooded in the rainy season. Throughout the rest of its circumference, +on the side of the Mohammedan terrace, the dome is in good condition, +and the lead is intact. Why then, it may be asked, is it thus damaged +only on the side belonging to the Greeks? We are told in reply, that the +wind detaches the sheets of lead, (which, be it observed, are fastened +by nails,) and carries them away; but it must be remarked that it is the +north wind only, and not the others, which blows with great force over +the city. It may be inferred from this how necessary it is that the +whole covering of the Holy Sepulchre should belong exclusively to the +church, and that no one should come near it or use it, in which case +disputes would diminish, and the interior of the building would be less +injured by damp. + +NOTE VIII. The two gates, the one on the west, the other on the east, +through which the square in front of the Church of the Resurrection is +reached, are very narrow and low, so that strangers are surprised to +find such a form used in places frequented by many visitors. This is not +the work of the Mohammedans, but was done by agreement of the different +religious bodies, in order to prevent beasts of burden from penetrating +into these sacred places. Without some such precaution their owners, and +especially the camel-drivers, would not fail to instal them there for +the night, simply because of the convenient situation of the square. +Besides this, these two gates form the barrier for the Jews of +Jerusalem, beyond which they cannot pass without exposing themselves to +insults, and perhaps to blows, or even worse, from the Christians of +Jerusalem, who imagine the place profaned by the passing of a Jew: +though they themselves think nothing of behaving irreverently while the +holy offices are being celebrated. If, however, a Jew is accompanied by +some one who can inspire them with fear or respect, these good +Christians will perhaps mutter and grumble, but venture no further. If a +slight _bakshish_ be administered, they will even salute him, and call +their correligionists a set of ignoramuses, though they themselves held +the same views before receiving _bakshish_. + +NOTE IX. The fact that there is only one entrance to the Church of the +Resurrection is the cause of many serious accidents at times when there +is any great gathering of people, particularly at Easter. This is +especially the case when the times of the celebration of this festival +by the different sects coincide. During the eight years which I spent at +Jerusalem, not an Easter passed without some such casualty. Some were +suffocated; some fainted in the crush, were trampled upon, and received +serious injuries; some had their limbs broken. These accidents are +constantly repeated, yet no one ever thinks of taking any means to avoid +them, though it would be so easy to open the other door. It is well +known how in 1836 Ibrahim Pasha attended the Greek service of the Holy +Fire, and a quarrel arose betwixt the Greeks and the Armenians: the +whole multitude sought some way of escape, and such was the crowding at +this the only single door, that the conqueror got out with much +difficulty by passing over thirty dead bodies that lay there, the +victims of the crush. (See Curzon's Monasteries of the Levant, chap. +16.) + +NOTE X. The following is Edrisi's account of the western gate. "The +church is entered by the western gate, and the traveller finds himself +under the cupola, which covers the whole of the enclosure, and which is +one of the most remarkable things in the world. The church is lower than +this door, and it is not possible to descend to the lower part on this +side of the building. Entrance is to be had on the north side by a door +which opens at the head of a staircase of thirty steps, which door is +called Bâb-Sitti Mariam." + +NOTE XI. The Abbé Mariti, who visited the Sepulchre before the fire of +1808, found in Adam's Chapel, on the right, the tomb of Godfrey de +Bouillon, and on the left, opposite the former, the tomb of Baldwin I., +his successor; they were of marble, or of a kind of stone which much +resembles it[900]. The following is the inscription on Godfrey's tomb: + + HIC JACET + INCLITUS DUX GODEFRIDUS DE BULLON + QUI TOTAM TERRAM AQUISIVIT + CULTUI KRANO CUI ANIMA REGNET CUM XRO + AMEN. + +_Here lies the illustrious Captain Godfrey de Bouillon, who won all this +land for the Christian faith. May his soul reign with Christ. Amen._ + +That engraved on Baldwin's tomb is as follows:-- + + REX BALDEWINUS + IUDAS ALTER MACHABEUS. SPES PATRIE VIGOR + ECCLIE VIRT' UTRIUSQ' QUEM FORMIDABANT + CUI DONA TRIBUTA FEREBANT CEDAR EGYPT' DAN. + AC HOMICIDA DAMASCUS + PROH DOLOR + IN MODICO CLAUDITUR HOC TUMULO. + +_King Baldwin, a second Judas Maccabæus, the hope of his country, the +strength of the Church, the mainstay of both, to whom Kedar, Egypt, Dan +and the murderous Damascus in fear brought gifts and tribute, is pent +up, alas! within this narrow tomb._ + +He also found in the same chapel an old tomb without any inscription, +fastened into the wall, which he was told was the _tomb of Melchizedek_. +It is known that the place was formerly intended to serve as a +burial-place for the Latin kings, and we are assured, says the Abbé, +that besides Godfrey and Baldwin I., there have since been buried there +Baldwin II., Baldwin III., Almericus I. (Amaury), Baldwin IV., and +Baldwin V. The tomb of the last-mentioned still exists amongst those +which are to be seen in the neighbourhood against the south side of the +choir of the Greeks, i.e. opposite to the Stone of Unction, on the +north side. On it is the following inscription:-- + + SEPTIM' IN TUMULO PUER ISTO REX TUMULAT' + EST BALDEVINI REGUM DE SANGUINE NAT'. + QUEM TULIT E MUNDO SORS PRIMÆ CONDITIONIS + UT PARADISIACÆ LOCA POSSIDEAT REGIONIS[901]. + +"_Within this tomb rests a youthful king, the seventh of a line of kings +sprung from Baldwin; whom the common lot has carried off from the world +to inhabit the regions of paradise._" Histoire de l'État présent de +Jérusalem, par l'Abbé Mariti, publiée par le R. P. Laorty Hadji, Paris, +1853, pp. 56, 57. + +NOTE XII. William of Tyre refers to a place where our Lord's body is +said to have been embalmed (Book VIII. Chap. 3. See Note VI.). + +Sanutus, who wrote in the fourteenth century, speaks of this place, but +puts it in the middle of the choir of the Greeks, far from that of which +we are now speaking. (Liber Secretorum fidelium Crucis, Lib. III. p. 14, +cap. 8.) + +Nicetas Choniata[902], a writer of the twelfth century, in his eighth +book, relates that the stone on which Christ's body was embalmed, was to +be seen in his time at Ephesus, whither the Emperor Manuel Comnenus had +carried it on his own shoulders from the gate of Bucoleon to the chapel +which was within the precincts of the palace, and that after the death +of that emperor it was removed thence and placed in his tomb. Nicetas +says that the stone is of a red hue; it seems more probable therefore +that it had formed part of Calvary itself, or of some smooth rock near +the sepulchre. + +NOTE XIII. I quote the most important passages relating to the Holy +Sepulchre, properly so called, which was carefully examined by the Abbé +Mariti, before it was all covered over as it is at present. + +"The Holy Sepulchre, placed at the centre of the building, is a block of +stone, which forms part of the soil, so hewn as to be quite separate +from the rest of the hill. + +"In the terrace-roof of the Sepulchre holes have been ingeniously formed +to let out the smoke from the lamps in the interior. + +"The sacred grotto is divided into two parts; the first is the Chapel of +the Angel; its eastern side, in which is the entrance-door, being built +of materials prepared by human hands, while the rest forms part of the +solid rock. There we saw a socle of stone, nearly square, embedded in +the rock, at the length of a cubit and a half from the gate of the Holy +Sepulchre, which is to the west of it: it served formerly as a support +to the stone which used to close the entrance of the Sepulchre. Inside +the Sepulchre is found a basin, hewn out with the chisel in the rock, of +three cubits and a sixth in length; its height four cubits five soldi, +in the middle; and on the sides, where it bends in forming a circular +arc, three cubits five soldi. Its breadth from north to south is not +equal throughout, being at the eastern end three cubits three soldi and +one-third, and at the west two cubits sixteen soldi and two-thirds. The +bench on which the Saviour's body was laid is three cubits and a third +long, and about two cubits and a third broad, raised one cubit and one +inch from the ground." (L'État présent de Jérusalem, p. 66.) + +NOTE XIV. Before I give the description of the way in which the festival +of the Holy Fire is celebrated, I will quote the account given of it in +Abulfaragii (or Barhebræi) Chronicum Syriacum, Lips. 1789, 2 Vols. 4to. +pp. 215-220. + +"The originator of this persecution (that is, the persecution of Hakem +when he destroyed the Sepulchre in 1010) was some enemy of the +Christians[a], who told Hakem: When the Christians meet in the Church +of the Holy Sepulchre to keep Easter, the ministers of the Church employ +a particular artifice, viz. they anoint with oil and with balsam the +iron chain by which the lamp above the Sepulchre is suspended; and when +the Arab official has fastened the door of the Sepulchre, they place the +fire at the end of the iron chain, reaching it from the roof; the chain +descends immediately with it till it reaches the match, and is ignited. +Then they break into tears and cry _Kyrie Eleison_ as they see the fire +falling from heaven upon the tomb, and so strengthen themselves in their +faith." + +Another account is transmitted to us by Aretas, of Cæsarea, who gives +certain information concerning it, under the name of Leo the Philosopher +to an Arab Vizir. He says: "To this day the sacred and much-worshipped +Sepulchre of Christ works a miracle every year on the day of the +Resurrection; when every fire in Jerusalem has been put out, the +Christians prepare a candle, and place it within the monument near the +Holy Sepulchre. The Emir of Jerusalem[b] closes the door, and while +the Christians stand outside crying _Kyrie Eleison_, a lamp appears, and +at once the candle is lighted by its flame. Then all the inhabitants +rekindle their fires in their houses by means of other candles lighted +at this one." + +_The Holy Fire of the Greeks and the Holy Sabbath of the Armenians at +Jerusalem._ + +In an age like the present, it is well that we should put on record +those acts and customs by which the name of civilization is profaned, +especially where they mask themselves under the name of religion. For +if this be done, those who have it in their power to stop and to +suppress them, cannot plead ignorance in excuse of the neglect of their +duty. + +The Holy Sabbath is a kind of festival or revel held round the Sepulchre +of our Lord, and continues from ten o'clock in the morning to three +o'clock in the afternoon. First of all, the Greek bishop takes his stand +inside the Sepulchre, while the pilgrims and the resident Greeks and +Armenians form a procession round the tomb, stamping and clapping their +hands, and shouting in a loud voice, _El Messiah atanah, u bidammu +astarana: Mahna el jom faratra u el jahudie hazana_. "The Messiah came +to us and redeemed us with His blood; to-day we rejoice, and the Jews +are sad." The excitement increases with the shouting, until the greater +part of the multitude appear to be intoxicated, and rush to and fro, as +in a state of frenzy, with the wildest cries and gesticulations. Some +throw their heads about violently, their hair floating in wild disorder, +and the foam streaming from their mouths, like men possessed. Some +mounting on each other's shoulders form themselves into living human +columns, and then suddenly fling themselves in the midst of the excited +throng. Others feign to be dead, and their companions carry them round +the building, singing funeral hymns and uttering their wonted cries of +mourning. Here is a party in high dispute, there a company fighting and +wrestling, while a third, and far the most numerous band, is madly +pressing towards the two oval holes through which the fire issues from +the Sepulchre, the one at the north, the other at the south end of the +monument. Meanwhile the government guards, or _Cavas_, attempt to +re-establish order by lashing out right and left with their tough whips +of hippopotamus hide. Everywhere is uproar and confusion, shouting and +stamping, as of madmen. When this has gone on for four or five hours, a +small flame at length makes its appearance at each of the holes above +mentioned. The bishop, concealed within the Sepulchre, having received +_from heaven_ the sacred fire, communicates it to the expectant +worshippers, who have awaited its coming with such devotion. The mind +cannot conceive, nor words describe the scene which then ensues; the +din, the crush, the struggling, each to be among the first to receive +the light. He who is nearest to the hole, and so the first to light his +candle, has probably paid dearly for the privilege; so high does the +competition run and such is the importance attached to gaining the +prize. Many pilgrims come from great distances, incurring all the +hardships and expense of a protracted journey merely to receive the Holy +Fire. As soon as they have received it, and carefully secured it in +their lanterns, they return home, having accomplished the sole purpose +of their pilgrimage, and caring nothing for the other festivities of +Easter-tide. + +Surraya Pasha, induced thereto by the urgent representations of M. de +Barrère, the French Consul in Palestine, has taken measures to prevent +any recurrence of the serious disorders which so frequently arose in +former times in connexion with this festival. Since he has been +governor, the time allowed for this desecration of the Holy Places has +been shortened, and the murderous quarrels which before prevailed are no +longer known. Would it not be more worthy of modern civilization to stop +it altogether? the Greek and Armenian pilgrimages to Jerusalem would +then, in all probability, cease. + +[Footnote a: See Silv. de Sacy, Exposé de la Réligion des Druses, Book +I. pp. cccxxxvi. and foll. The author mentions other details of the +origin and the motives of Hakem's fury against the Christians, given by +Severus. This Coptic Arab author attributes the origin of it to a monk +named John, who was ambitious of becoming bishop.] + +[Footnote b: In our time the door of the Sepulchre is closed, after a Greek +bishop, who is called _Bishop of the Fire_, has entered. We do not know +whether the miracle in present times is produced by a lamp concealed in +the walls of the Sepulchre, or by a preparation of phosphorus: but they +that wait for the appearance of the fire are as credulous, or pretend to +be so, as the Christians of the time of Aretas.] + +NOTE XV. I have as strong objections to the service celebrated by the +Franciscans on the evening of Good Friday, as to that of the Holy Fire. +Like the latter, it gives rise to disputes, tumults, and serious +disorders; and besides, there is in it an utter absence of decorum. +Generally speaking, it has none of the impressive effect of a religious +ceremony, but rather excites a feeling of the ridiculous, when it does +not result in mourning for some fatal accident. How it is that the +Franciscan fathers have not done away with it, or modified it, I cannot +understand. To hold a service in a church to which persons of all sects +are admitted, and to think that men's hearts can be reached by it, is an +utter mistake. When no one is carried out of the building dead or +wounded, they say with a satisfied air, "_The service has passed off +well;_" little thinking of the exertions that are required to make it +pass off well. A battalion of infantry is drawn up under arms in the +square of the Sepulchre, and supplies the guards in the interior of the +church; all the officers are employed to suppress any slight +disturbance; the Governor betakes himself to the church to be ready in +case of any serious outbreak: the French Consul is busy with +preparations two days before, and on the evening of the service he and +his employés are wearied out; the clergy are knocked about by the crowd; +and all this passes off well. + +They ought to remember the year in which human blood was shed on Mount +Calvary; and how in 1861, had it not been for the energy of the French +Consul, and the singular discretion and moderation of General Ducrot, of +the French Corps d'Expédition in Syria, and his forty officers, the +service certainly would not have passed off well. + +NOTE XVI. The short street which connects the two churches of S. Mary +the Great and S. Mary the Less was called, at the time of the Crusades, +_the street of Palms_, because palm-branches were there sold to +pilgrims. A similar traffic goes on at the present day, and on the same +spot, during the feast of Palms; but palms being scarcer than formerly, +olive-branches are generally substituted for them. + +NOTE XVII. The original firman exists in the archives of the Franciscan +Convent of S. Saviour at Jerusalem. Its exact date is not known, but may +be placed between 1014 and 1023. See Boré, Question des Lieux Saints, 5. + +NOTE XVIII. The direction of this street is clearly marked in a paper +published by Sebastian Paoli (Cod. Diplom. I. p. 243), and reproduced by +Schultz, Williams, and De Vogüé: "I, Amalric ... have given ... to the +sacred Hospital at Jerusalem, and to the Church of S. Mary the Great, a +certain street which was _between_ the Hospital aforesaid and the Church +of S. Mary the Great aforesaid, to which there is an _entrance on the +north from the Street of Palms_, opposite the front of the Church of the +Holy Sepulchre, and on the south between the two aforesaid houses of the +hospital and of St Mary the Less, which leads also _below the buildings +of the Hospital to the Street of the Patriarch's Baths_...." June, 1174. + + +NOTES TO CHAPTER V. + +NOTE I. See De Vogüé, p. 302. We first find it mentioned in La Citez de +Jhérusalem, under the name of 'Porte douloureuse.' "When you have gone a +little further on" (after crossing the Street of Jehoshaphat, on the way +from S. Stephen's Gate) "you come to a place where two streets cross: +that which comes from the left comes from the Temple and goes to the +Sepulchre. At the commencement of this street is a gate, on the Temple +side, which is called 'Porte douloureuse:' by it Jesus passed when he +was taken to Calvary to be crucified; and therefore it is called the +gate of mourning." + +NOTE II. "The Sultan, on his return to Jerusalem, increased the +endowment of the school which he had there founded. Before the +occupation by the Mohammedans it had been known as the Church of S. Ann, +the mother of S. Mary; whose tomb is said to have been found there. +Under the Mohammedans it had been turned into a school, before the +Franks made themselves masters of the city. They had restored the church +to its former position, but the Sultan, having conquered the Franks, +again changed it into a school, whose management and revenues he +entrusted to Bohaddin, son of Sieddad." Abulfeda, Annales Moslemici, +from Reiske's translation. + +NOTE III. The Church of the Holy Cross is superior to that of S. Ann in +the simplicity of its ornamentation, answering to the description of M. +de Vogüé (p. 241): "Some persons have thought they saw in the poverty +and simplicity of the ornamentation a proof of Byzantine influence. I +would rather attribute it partly to the want of sculptors, and partly to +the influence of the Cistercians, which seems to have been brought to +bear on the foundation and building of the monastery." The latter +statement he illustrates by a note which I will also quote: "S. Bernard +took a lively interest in all that occurred in the Holy Land, and +exercised much influence thereon by his letters. He was in constant +correspondence with Queen Milisendis (1130-1150), with the Patriarch, +and with the Templars--the rules of whose order he helped to draw up. It +was well known how sternly he had denounced the excessive adorning of +churches, and how rigorously the Cistercian order applied his +principles. The connexion of S. Bernard with Milisendis, who was the +chief benefactress of the Convent of S. Ann, _leads me to suppose_ that +his views may have been followed in the building of the Church of S. +Ann, and of the monastery. See in M. de Verneuil's L'Architecture +Byzantine en France (Plate XIII.), the design of the Cistercian Abbey at +Boschaud, built in 1154. The general form is not the same with that of +S. Ann, but the style is identical. Further there are also the pilasters +of the binding joists ending in corbelling." I would gladly assent to M. +de Vogüé's hypothesis--but I cannot; for in S. Bernard's correspondence +there is no mention at all of the building of the Church of S. Ann. I +allow that the style is identical with that of the Cistercian Abbey: but +certainly the form changes a good deal, because this is not a trapezium +like that of S. Ann. + +NOTE IV. Some idea may be formed of the position which the Franciscans +hold in respect of the local government, from the conditions to which +they were required to submit before they received permission to take up +a residence within the walls of Jerusalem. The following are some of +them: that they would give presents every year to the _Kadi_, the +governor, and to all the members of the Divan: that, when one of them +died, they should not be allowed to carry his body out to burial in the +sight of the Mohammedans, but that he should be wrapt in a carpet, and +carried outside the walls and buried there: that they should never buy +any property in Jerusalem, under pain of its being confiscated and given +to the Mosque of Omar: that the friars should not shew themselves too +frequently in the streets of the city: that the monastery occupied by +them should be inspected every three years by the _Kadi_, the governor, +and his architect, to see whether any changes had been made in the +building. These conditions were rigorously enforced every time that the +local governor was pleased to extort money from the brotherhood, who, of +course, were always in the wrong. (These facts are drawn from the papers +found in the Registry of the Convent of S. Saviour.) + +NOTE V. It is sometimes supposed that the Franciscans carry on a trade +in the articles that are made in the workroom of S. Saviour; but it is +quite a mistake. The friars have these articles made by poor workpeople, +and so give them the means of supporting themselves by their industry; +and any profits that may accrue from the sale are applied to the support +of widows and orphans, as in every other work of charity, which is +constantly carried on by the society. + +NOTE VI. The Greeks, who since the coming of the first Crusaders had +been unjustly robbed of all their other possessions in the Holy Land, +returned thither in 1348, in consequence of a treaty concluded between +the Emperor Cantacuzenus and Naser Eddin Hassan, Sultan of Egypt. They +established a hospice for pilgrims in the Monastery of S. Euthymius, +whilst their servants took up their abode in that of S. Michael the +Archangel. + + +NOTES TO CHAPTER VI. + +NOTE I. The eastern Christians call the Valley of Jehoshaphat in the +language of the country _Wady el-Nar_ (Valley of Fire); a name which is +also given to it by the Mohammedans, from the belief that the general +judgment will take place there. If we interpret the name _Jehoshaphat_ +according to the idea of the Jews, its meaning is _judgment of God_, for +the Chaldee in the passage in Joel (chap. iii. 2, 12, 15), instead of +saying "_in the valley of Jehoshaphat_," translates it thus, "_in the +valley of the division of judgment_." If we are to accept the opinion of +Calmet, that by the valley of Jehoshaphat we are to understand the +_valley of Jezreel_, we cannot believe that the final judgment is to +take place in this valley, which is close under the walls of Jerusalem, +but in that of Jezreel. + +Origen looks upon this general gathering of mankind in a more extended +view than that of Calmet: "Origen thinks that the nations will be +gathered together over the face of the whole earth; and that the +manifestation of Christ will be like to a blaze of light that covers at +once the whole world." S. Jerome expresses himself thus, "It is folly to +seek in a small or secret place for Him who is the light of the whole +world." (Calmet's Commentary on Joel.) Mariti, L'État présent, &c. p. +132. + +NOTE II. Those who made of the Hebrew word Kidron (Cedron) a Greek word, +fancy that the name may have been derived from some cedars planted in +the neighbourhood; they rely probably on the Greek text of the gospel of +S. John, where the word is written with +ô+ instead of +o+, which may be +simply an error of the copyists, as some commentators have remarked; +seeing that in other parts of the Bible it is called Kidron. + +The valley of Kidron begins, on the north, near or a little above the +Tombs of the Kings, at a height of about 2460 feet above the +Mediterranean; at first it is called the Valley of Kidron, or of +Jehoshaphat; then _Wady er-Nahib_ (Valley of the Monks), in the +neighbourhood of the monastery of S. Saba; and lastly, _Wady el-Nar_ +(Valley of Fire), in the last part of its course. The entire descent +from the head of the valley to the Dead Sea is about 3690 vertical feet. +I have traversed it several times on foot with Bedouins, for the sole +purpose of examining all the changes of its sides. Near S. Saba it is +very picturesque. + +NOTE III. Nicephorus Callistus expresses himself thus: "She also raised +another splendid temple in the garden of Gethsemane to the Mother of +God; and enclosed within it her life-giving tomb. Moreover the place +being on a hill-side she erected marble steps, for travellers to pass +from the city eastwards." (Ecclesiastical History, VIII. 30.) + +NOTE IV. These are the words of the empress: "We hear that there is a +noble and splendid church dedicated to Mary, Mother of God and perpetual +Virgin, on the ground called Gethsemane where her body was laid." +Johann. Damascen. Orat. II. de B. M. Assumptione, ap. Quaresm. E. T. S. +Lib. IV. pereg. 7, c. 2, Tom. II. p. 241. + +NOTE V. This is the account of Sebastiano Paoli: "That most venerable +Mount Sion also they have profaned and treated with no respect: the +Temple of the Lord, the church in the Valley of Jehoshaphat, where is +the Sepulchre of the Virgin, the church at Bethlehem, and the place of +our Lord's nativity, they have polluted by enormities too grievous to be +told, exceeding therein the wickedness of all the Saracens." (Seb. +Paoli, Cod. Diplom. del S. Mil. Ord. Gerusal. Said Ebn Batrik, II. 212.) + +NOTE VI. It was Godfrey de Bouillon who brought these monks to Jerusalem +and gave them for their abbey the whole of the Valley of Jehoshaphat. +"The same Godfrey aforesaid had also brought monks from well-disciplined +cloisters, religious men, and distinguished by their holy conversation, +who during the whole of the journey, day and night, celebrated the +divine offices according to ecclesiastical usage. And when he obtained +the kingdom, he settled them at their own request in the Valley of +Jehoshaphat, and gave them an ample endowment." (William of Tyre, IX. +9.) + +NOTE VII. In which place was a wonderful work built in the earliest +times of the Christian religion, as S. Jerome testifies in his writings. +It surpassed all the other buildings in size, workmanship, and design; +but was afterwards destroyed by the treacherous Gentiles: its ruins are +to be seen even to this day. Bongars, p. 574. De Vogüé says that the +author grounds his statement wrongly on an apocryphal letter of S. +Jerome. See Quaresmius, E. T. S. Tom. II. p. 244. + +NOTE VIII. Brocardus writes: "The Sepulchre of the Virgin is covered +with earth to such an extent that the church built upon its site, though +its walls were lofty, and it had a noble roof, is now entirely buried +underground.... There was built, however, on the same site, and _upon +the surface of the ground_, a church or a building like a chapel, after +the repairing of the city. Having entered this, you will descend by +several steps _underground_ to the aforementioned church and the Tomb +of the Virgin; if I am not mistaken there are sixty steps. The tomb is +in the middle of the choir and in front of a marble altar beautifully +decorated, which the Saracens too most devoutly worship, falling down +before it and kissing it, and in a loud voice, as is their custom, +praying for the intercession of the Holy Virgin. I have been inside the +Sepulchre itself." + +Willibrand (Leo Allat. Sym. p. 149) says, "We saw a church richly +adorned and in its midst a monument, covered on all sides with white, +i.e. virgin, marble." + +NOTE IX. Father Geraldo Calvetti, guardian and keeper of Mount Sion, +took possession of the Sepulchre. The document which proves this is +found in the archives of the convent of S. Saviour at Jerusalem, under +the letter C. Quaresmius, I. 181: "These things were done at Jerusalem +before the gate and entrance of the said church of Our Blessed Lady of +the Valley of Jehoshaphat." + +NOTE X. A firman, granted in 1852, allows the Latins to hold service in +the Sepulchre of the Virgin, after the Greeks and the Armenians, +enjoining upon them at the same time to take away on each occasion the +objects of worship. This firman, amongst the many false statements that +it makes, contains a few lines which are worth quoting: "it is just to +confirm the permission granted at all times to the Christians of the +Catholic rite to exercise their own form of worship in this place." In +spite of these previous concessions, &c. the Latins had been totally +driven out from it. Of what use are firmans when they are acquired at +will by presents of gold? + +NOTE XI. Father Morone[903], Guardian of the Holy Land, relates that +towards the middle of the seventeenth century some tombstones were found +near the entrance of the Grotto of the Agony; and on them were +inscriptions belonging to the Latin Christians; but that he himself, who +had the oversight of the work, did not let them be uncovered, from fear +lest the Turks should take possession of them. If he had only taken a +copy of these epitaphs, we might possibly know the resting-place of some +of the more distinguished Crusaders. However, I conclude, from the fact +that he relates, that the existing passage was made at that time. + +NOTE XII. In 1857 I obtained leave from the Superior of the Greek +convent to draw the ground-plan of the church. I set to work, and got as +far as the Armenian Chapel of S. Joseph, when the Armenian lay-keeper of +the chapel wished to hinder my continuing my work; I asked him as a +favour to let me go on, and offered him an acknowledgment, but he only +became more annoying still. At last I tried force, compelled him to +return to his sacristy, set a European servant to watch at the door, +and, regardless of his cries, persisted in my work. I mention this to +shew how great difficulties are met with, even amongst Christians of +other sects, in conducting any investigations respecting the monuments +that belong to them. + +NOTE XIII. The olive-trees of the Garden of Gethsemane, says +Chateaubriand (Itinéraire, Vol. II.), belong at any rate to the later +empire. In Turkey, every olive-tree found already planted when the Turks +invaded Asia, pays a tax of a medino; those that have been planted since +the conquest pay to the Sultan the half of their fruit. Now, the eight +olive-trees of Gethsemane are taxed at eight medini. + +NOTE XIV. The various elevations of the hills, and other special +localities of Jerusalem and its neighbourhood, are drawn in section. +(Plate IV.) + +NOTE XV. The Jews had derived the worship of Moloch from the Canaanites. +Moloch and Saturn appear to have been the same deity: the way in which +they were worshipped is the same. The Carthaginians, who were descended +from the Canaanites, offered human victims to Saturn. "There was in +their city," says Diodorus Siculus (Book XX. chap. 14), "a bronze statue +representing Cronos (Saturn): it had its hands spread out, and bent down +towards the ground, so that the child that was put in its hands, rolling +itself up, fell into a fiery furnace." These cruel sacrifices continued +to prevail in Africa till the time of the Emperor Tiberius (Tertullian, +Apol. IX.). From Syria the practice passed into Europe. Agathocles, king +of Sicily, sacrificed two hundred children of the noblest families to +his deity, believing him to be angry. (Pescennius Festus in Lactant. +Divin. Instit. I. 21.) + +The Rabbi Simon, in his commentary on Jeremiah (viii.), gives the +following description of the idol Moloch: "All the idol temples were in +the city of Jerusalem, except that of Moloch, which was in a place set +apart outside the city. It was a statue of bronze with the head of an +ox, and with the hands stretched out like those of a man who wishes to +receive something from another; within it was quite hollow. Before the +image were seven chapels; he who offered a dove, or any other bird, went +into the first; he who gave a lamb, or a sheep, into the second; into +the third for a wether; into the fourth for a calf; into the fifth for a +bull; into the sixth for an ox; while he who sacrificed his own son +entered the seventh chapel and embraced the idol, as it is said in Hosea +(xiii. 2), 'Let the men that sacrifice kiss the calves.' The child was +set before the idol, beneath which a fire was kindled, till the bronze +became red hot; then the priest took the child, and put it between the +burning hands of Moloch, while the parents were bound to witness the +sacrifice without any expression of feeling. To prevent the cries of the +victims reaching them, drums and gongs were sounded! from this comes the +name _Topheth_, which signifies a drum. It was also called _Hinnom_, +because of the cries of the children, from _naham_, to cry, or, +according to another interpretation from the words which the priest used +to address to the parents, _Jehenelach_--this will be of service to +thee. King Josiah, in order to render the place an object of horror, +'defiled Topheth, which is in the valley of the sons of Hinnom, that no +man might make his son or his daughter to pass through the fire to +Moloch' (2 Kings xxiii. 10)." + +NOTE XVI. So when Solomon is spoken of, it is said, "Solomon slept with +his fathers, and was buried in the city of David, his father" (1 Kings +xi. 43); and the same formula is used of the kings Rehoboam, Abijam, +Jehoshaphat, Ahaziah, Jehoiada, the priest (2 Chron. xxiv. 16), and the +kings Amaziah, Jotham, Josiah; while in the case of the rest different +expressions are used. Asa was buried "in his own sepulchres, which he +had made for himself in the city of David" (2 Chron. xvi. 14); therefore +he was not buried with his fathers. Jehoram was buried "in the city of +David, but not in the sepulchres of the kings" (2 Chron. xxi. 20). The +place of burial of the usurper Athaliah is not mentioned. Joash, in 2 +Kings xii. 21, is buried "with his fathers in the city of David," while +in 2 Chron. xxiv. 25, it is said that "they buried him not in the +sepulchres of the kings." Uzziah "they buried with his fathers in the +field of the burial which belonged to the kings; for they said, He is a +leper" (2 Chron. xxvi. 23). Ahaz they "buried in the city, _even_ at +Jerusalem: but they brought him not into the sepulchres of the kings of +Israel" (2 Chron. xxviii. 27). Hezekiah was buried "in the highest of +the sepulchres of the sons of David" (2 Chron. xxxii. 33). Manasseh "was +buried in the garden of his own house, in the garden of Uzza;" as also +was Amon, his successor (2 Kings xxi. 18, 26). Jehoahaz died in Egypt (2 +Kings xxiii. 34). Eliakim, or Jehoiachim, according to Jeremiah (xxii. +19), is to be "buried with the burial of an ass, drawn and cast forth +beyond the gates of Jerusalem;" and (xxxvi. 30), "his dead body shall be +cast out in the day to the heat, and in the night to the frost;" from +all which we may the more certainly conclude that the sepulchres of the +other kings were within the gates of Jerusalem. Lastly, we have +Jehoiachin and Zedekiah led captive to Babylon, where they died. + +NOTE XVII. Bede, who wrote in the eighth century (on the authority of +Arculf), calls the building of the Coenaculum a large church. In his +time there was in the neighbourhood a convent of monks. He says: "On the +upper part of Mount Sion there is a large church, surrounded by a great +number of monks' cells. The church was founded, it is said, by the +apostles, because it was there that they received the Holy Ghost, and +that Mary died. They shew there to this day the memorable place which +was the scene of our Lord's supper. In the middle of the church is a +column of marble, to which Jesus was bound when He was scourged." + + +FOOTNOTES: + +[900] Persons who have seen them have told me that they were of the +veined red breccia of Palestine. + +[901] These three inscriptions were traced in characters of the 12th +century. + +[902] Lib. VII. ad fin. p. 289, ed. Bonn. + +[903] Mariano Morone da Maleo, Terra Santa nuovamente illustrata. +Piacenza, 1669, 4to. + + + + +CHRONOLOGICAL SUMMARY + +OF THE HISTORY AND EVENTS OF JERUSALEM. + + + B.C. + + 1913 Melchizedek, king of Salem, receives Abram at the Valley of + Shaveh, which is the King's Dale Gen. xiv. 17, 18. + + 1872 Sacrifice of Isaac on Mount Moriah _Ib._ xxii. 2-14. + + 1451 Adonizedek king of Jerusalem Josh. x. 1. + + 1444 The descendants of Judah dwell among the Jebusites at + Jerusalem _Ib._ xv. 63. + + 1425 The descendants of Benjamin dwell among the Jebusites at + Jerusalem Judges i. 21. + + -- Jebus, the city of the Jebusites, is + Jerusalem _Ib._ xix. 10, 11. + + 1050 David reigns in Jerusalem over all Israel and Judah + 2 Sam. v. 5. + + 1023 Death of Absalom, and his Pillar in the King's Dale + _Ib._ xviii. 14, 18. + + 1017 The prophets, Nathan and Gad, at Jerusalem + _Ib._ xxiv. 11; 1 Kings i. 11. + + -- David buys the Threshing-floor of Araunah the Jebusite, and + builds there an Altar to God 2 Sam. xxiv. 24, 25. + + -- Solomon proclaimed king at Jerusalem 1 Kings i. 39. + + 1015 Death of David, after 40 years' reign _Ib._ ii. 10, 11. + + 1014 Solomon begins to build the Temple _Ib._ vi. 1. + + 1007 The Temple finished _Ib._ vi. 38. + + 1004 Dedication of Solomon's Temple _Ib._ viii. 63. + + 992 Solomon forsakes God, and builds a high place to Chemosh, &c. + _Ib._ xi. 7. + + 977 Death of Solomon, after 40 years' reign _Ib._ xi. 42, 43. + + -- Division of the Kingdom. Rehoboam, king of Judah, reigns 17 + years _Ib._ xii. 17; xiv. 21. + + 973 Shishak, king of Egypt, besieges and takes Jerusalem + _Ib._ xiv. 25, 26. + + 960 Abijam, king of Judah, reigns 3 years _Ib._ xv. 1, 2. + + 958 Asa, king of Judah, reigns 41 years _Ib._ xv. 9, 10. + + 917 Jehoshaphat, king of Judah, reigns 25 years _Ib._ xxii. 42. + + 896 The prophet Elijah taken up to heaven. Elisha the prophet + 2 Kings ii. 11, 12. + + 892 Joram, king of Judah, reigns 8 years _Ib._ viii. 16, 17. + + 887 The Philistines and Arabians pillage Judah + 2 Chron. xxi. 16, 17. + + 885 Ahaziah, king of Judah, reigns 1 year 2 Kings viii. 25, 26. + + 884 Usurpation of the throne by Athaliah; reigns 6 years + _Ib._ xi. 1, 3. + + 878 Jehoash, king of Judah, reigns 40 years _Ib._ xii. 1. + + 856 Repairs of the Temple _Ib._ xii. 11-14. + + 840 Hazael, king of Syria, threatens Jerusalem _Ib._ xii. 18. + + 839 Amaziah, king of Judah, reigns 29 years _Ib._ xiv. 1, 2. + + 838 Jehoash, king of Israel, comes to Jerusalem as a conqueror + _Ib._ xiv. 17. + + 811 Azariah, king of Judah, reigns 52 years _Ib._ xv. 2. + + 787 The Prophet Amos Amos i. 1. + + 785 The Prophet Hosea Hosea i. 1. + + 759 Jotham, king of Judah, reigns 16 years; fortifies Ophel + 2 Kings xv. 32; 2 Chr. xxvii. 3. + + 743 Ahaz, king of Judah, reigns 16 years _Ib._ xvi. 2. + + -- Isaiah the Prophet. Micah the Prophet, in the days of Jotham + Isai. i. 1; Micah i. 1. + + 727 Hezekiah, king of Judah, reigns 29 years 2 Kings xviii. 2. + + 714 Judah invaded by Sennacherib the Assyrian _Ib._ xviii. 13. + + 713 Destruction of Sennacherib's army 2 Kings xix. 35. + + 698 Manasseh, king of Judah, reigns 55 years; fortifies Ophel + _Ib._ xxi. 1; 2 Chr. xxxiii. 14. + + 643 Amon, king of Judah, reigns 2 years _Ib._ xxi. 19. + + 641 Josiah, king of Judah, reigns 31 years _Ib._ xxii. 1. + + 629 The prophet Jeremiah Jer. i. 2. + + -- The prophet Zephaniah Zephan. i. 1. + + 624 The Book of the Law found 2 Kings xxii. 8. + + 610-9 Josiah killed by Pharaoh-nechoh, king of Egypt + _Ib._ xxiii. 29. + + -- Jehoahaz, king of Judah, reigns 3 months _Ib._ xxiii. 31. + + -- Jehoiachim (Eliakim), king of Judah, reigns 11 years + _Ib._ xxiii. 34, 36. + + 606-5 Nebuchadnezzar, king of Babylon, subdues Judea. Epoch + generally used to indicate the commencement of the Seventy + years' Captivity in Babylon _Ib._ xxiv. 1. + + 599-8 Jehoiachin, king of Judah, reigns 3 months. Jerusalem taken by + Nebuchadnezzar. _Ib._ xxiv. 12. + + -- Zedekiah, king of Judah under the Chaldeans, reigns 11 years + _Ib._ xxiv. 18. + + 595 The Vision of the Prophet Ezekiel, in the thirtieth year after + the reformation of Josiah, by the river Chebar, in Babylon + Ezekiel i. 1. + + 589 The city of Jerusalem besieged by Nebuchadnezzar + 2 Kings xxv. 1, 2. + + 588 Jeremiah in prison Jer. xxxvii. 15. + + 587 Destruction of Jerusalem; Zedekiah taken prisoner; the people + carried captive to Babylon 2 Kings xxv. 6, 9-11. + + 536 Return of the Jews to Jerusalem with Zerubbabel in the 1st + year of the reign of Cyrus Ezra i. 1; ii. 2. + + 521 The building of the Temple interrupted by order of Smerdis, + called by Ezra, Artaxerxes _Ib._ iii. 8; iv. 1, 21, 24. + + 520 Recommencement of the building of the Temple in the 2nd year + of Darius, king of Persia _Ib._ iv. 24; vi. 7-14. + + 517 Completion and Dedication of the Temple _Ib._ vi. 15, 16. + + 457 Ezra goes to Judea with many of the Jews, by order of + Artaxerxes _Ib._ vii. 1-8. + + 444 Nehemiah returns to Jerusalem, rebuilds the walls, and governs + the city until 432 Nehem. i. 1; ii. 1; iii. + + 332 The great high-priest Jaddua receives Alexander the Great at + Jerusalem. + + -- Palestine under Greek and Roman Dominion. + + 323 Ptolemy, one of the generals of Alexander the Great, surprises + and takes Jerusalem. + + 320 Many Jews in captivity at Alexandria. + + 314 Antiochus the Great subdues Palestine. + + 301 Ptolemy Epiphanes recovers Palestine. + + 292 Death of Simon the Just. + + 170 Antiochus Epiphanes lays waste the city of Jerusalem, pillages + the Temple, and builds a fortress to command it. + + 167 Mattathias begins the war of Jewish Independence. + + 165 Judas Maccabeus delivers his Country, purifies and restores + the Temple at Jerusalem. + + 164 Antiochus Eupator besieges the Temple at Jerusalem. + + 160 Jonathan succeeds his brother, Judas Maccabeus. + + 144 Jonathan undertakes to fortify Jerusalem. + + 143 Simon Maccabeus, general of the Jews, delivers his Nation from + Macedonian servitude; takes the fortress commanding the + Temple, which he razes to the ground, and destroys the hill + upon which it was built. + + 135 Simon Maccabeus treacherously killed. + + 129 Antiochus Soter besieges Hyrcanus in Jerusalem. Hyrcanus + causes the Sepulchre of David to be opened, and takes from + it three thousand talents. + + 107 Aristobulus, the eldest son of Hyrcanus, prince of the Jews, + causes himself to be crowned king. Death of his brother + Antigonus in the subterranean passages of Strato's Tower at + Jerusalem. + + 79 Death of Alexander Janneus. + + 65 Aretas, king of Arabia, besieges Aristobulus in Jerusalem. + + 64-63 Pompey besieges the Temple of Jerusalem. + + 63 After a siege of three months Pompey carries the Temple by + assault. + + 54 Crassus pillages the Temple of Jerusalem. + + 47 Cæsar permits Hyrcanus to rebuild the Walls of Jerusalem. + + 44 Herod besieges Jerusalem. + + 43 Cassius in Judea. + + 40 Jerusalem taken by the Parthians; Phazaelus killed. + + -- Herod besieges Jerusalem; is proclaimed king at Rome. + + 38 Herod, assisted by Sosius, takes Jerusalem by storm. + + 17 Herod rebuilds the Temple and the fortress of Baris, which he + calls Antonia. In the upper town he builds the Cæsarean and + Agrippan palaces, and excavates a subterranean passage from + the Tower Antonia to the Eastern gate of the Temple. + + 12 Herod causes the Sepulchre of David to be opened. + + 7 Herod causes his sons, Alexander and Aristobulus, to be + condemned in a large assembly at Berytus. + + 5 Sabinus at Jerusalem seizes the treasures left by Herod. + + 4 Birth of Jesus Christ. The Vulgar Era commences four years + later. + + 4 Death of Herod, who is interred at Herodium, and succeeded by + Archelaus. + + * * * * * + + A.D. + + 26 Death of Augustus, succeeded by Tiberius. + + -- Pilate supplies Jerusalem with water by means of Aqueducts. + + 28 Jesus Christ keeps the second Passover at Jerusalem. + + 31 Death of Jesus Christ. + + 37 Birth of Flavius Josephus at Jerusalem. + + 38 Agrippa named king of the Jews by Caius Caligula. + + 42 Claudius confirms Agrippa's title as king. + + 44 King Agrippa begins to fortify Jerusalem, but is forbidden to + continue the work by the emperor Claudius. + + -- Izates, king of Adiabene, and queen Helena, his mother, + embrace Judaism. + + 46 Death of Herod, king of Chalcis. The emperor Claudius gives + his dominions to Agrippa, son of king Agrippa the Great. + + 47 The insolence of a Roman soldier causes the death of twenty + thousand Jews at Jerusalem. + + 52 Death of the emperor Claudius. Nero succeeds him. + + 60 King Agrippa builds an apartment whence he can see all that + goes on in the precincts of the Temple. + + 62 Ananias, the high-priest, puts S. James to death. + + 65 Albinus and Gessius Florus persecute the Jews. + + 66 Cestius Gallus enters Jerusalem, and would have taken the + Temple, had he not imprudently raised the siege. + + -- Cestius defeated at Gibeon by the Jews. + + -- The Christian Jews, guided by their bishop, Simon, retire + beyond the Jordan, to the town of Pella. (See Eusebius, + Hist. Eccles. III. 5.) + + -- The Jews prepare for war with the Romans. The emperor Nero + confers the command of his Syrian armies upon Vespasian, to + make war upon the Jews. + + 67 Vespasian and Titus proceed to Ptolemais with an army of + sixty thousand men. + + -- Flavius Josephus made prisoner by Vespasian. + + 68 Vespasian begins to blockade Jerusalem. + + -- Flavius Josephus set at liberty by Vespasian, who is now + become emperor. + + 69 Vespasian despatches Titus to Judea, to take Jerusalem. + + 70 Titus arrives at Jerusalem, in which place Simon had ten + thousand men, besides five thousand Idumeans. John had + eight thousand four hundred men. Total twenty-three + thousand four hundred. + + -- Titus takes the city of Jerusalem, and reduces it to ruins. + + -- Titus returns to view Jerusalem. + + 136-8 Hadrian rebuilds Jerusalem, and calls it Ælia Capitolina. + + 306 Constantine proclaimed emperor. + + 326 The emperor Constantine and his mother Helena build many + churches in Palestine. + + 335 The Church of the Holy Sepulchre completed. + + 363 Under the reign of Julian the Apostate the Jews attempt to + rebuild the Temple. + + 396 Palestine a province of the Eastern Empire. + + 420 Patriarchate of Tiberius came to an end under Theodosius II. + + 436 Under the reign of Marcian, the general Council of Chalcedon + raises the Church of Jerusalem to the Patriarchal dignity. + + 527-565 Justinian, emperor of the East, builds churches in Palestine. + + 614 Chosroes II. enters Palestine and destroys the Church of the + Holy Sepulchre at Jerusalem. + + 629 The emperor Heraclius carries back to Jerusalem the wood of + the Cross restored by Chosroes. + + -- The Greek monk, Modestus, afterwards Patriarch, determines to + rebuild the Church of the Sepulchre. + + 636 Omar becomes master of Jerusalem under a capitulation arranged + with Sophronius the patriarch. + + 637 Omar orders the construction of a Mosque upon the site of the + Jewish Temple, and converts the basilica of S. Mary of + Justinian into the Mosque el-Aksa. + + 687-690 The Caliph Abd-el-Melik Ibn-Merwan erects the Mosque of Omar. + + 748 and subsequently. The Christians inhabit a separate quarter + of Jerusalem, and pay tribute. + + 786-809 Haroun-er-Raschid presents the keys of the Holy Sepulchre to + Charlemagne, king of the French. + + 842 Under the Caliphate of Al-Motassim, Tamim, surnamed Abu-Harb, + marches to Jerusalem and threatens to burn the churches, + but retires after receiving a sum of money. + + 878 Syria and Palestine conquered by Ahmed-ben-Touloun. + + 929-950 Interruption of the pilgrimages to Mecca, owing to the + invasion of the Carmathians; the Mosque of Omar at Jerusalem + replaces the Caaba. + + 936 Abubeker-Mohammed, surnamed Ikshide, makes himself master of + Palestine. + + 945 The eunuch Cafour master of Palestine until his death in 968. + + 972 Palestine in the power of Moezz-Ledin-Allah, caliph of the + dynasty of the Fatimites. + + 996 The caliph Al-Hakem-Biamr-Allah ascends the throne of Egypt. + + 1010 Hakem-Biamr-Allah destroys the Church of the Sepulchre at + Jerusalem. + + 1046 The Church of the Sepulchre rebuilt under caliph + Al-Mostanser-Billah. The emperor Constantine Monomachus + gives large sums towards the work. + + 1071 Atsiz takes Jerusalem from caliph Al-Mostanser-Billah, and + pillages many of the churches. + + 1095 Al-Mastaali-Billah, caliph of Egypt, sends an army to + Palestine under the command of Al-Afdhal-ibn-Bedr; Jerusalem + capitulates after 40 days' siege. + + -- At the general Council of Clermont Peter the Hermit appears by + the side of Pope Urban II., and the Crusade is determined. + + 1099 The Crusaders, commanded by Godfrey of Bouillon, take + Jerusalem, Friday, July 15th. + + 1100 Death of Godfrey of Bouillon in the month of July. + + 1118 Death of Baldwin I. + + 1131 Death of Baldwin II. + + -- Under the reign of Baldwin II. the military and religious + orders of S. John, or Hospitalers and Knights of the Temple, + are approved by the Pope. + + 1142 Fulk, count of Anjou, dies at Ptolemais. + + 1146 The second Crusade decided upon in the Assembly of Vezelay, + March 31st. Undertaken by Louis VII., king of France, and + Conrad, emperor of Germany, under the pontificate of + Eugenius III. + + 1162 Baldwin III. dies at Beyrout. + + 1173 Death of Amaury. This king witnessed the birth and development + of the power of Saladin. + + 1185 Death of Baldwin IV. + + 1186 Death of Baldwin V. + + 1187 Saladin destroys the army of Guy of Lusignan, July 4. + + -- The Christians of Jerusalem capitulate to Saladin, October + 2nd. + + 1189 Third Crusade under the pontificate of Clement III., Philip + Augustus, king of France, Richard Coeur de Lion, king of + England, Frederic Barbarossa, emperor of Germany. + + 1190 Death of Frederic Barbarossa on the Cydnus. + + 1191 Siege and capture of S. Jean d'Acre by Richard Coeur de Lion + and Philip Augustus. + + 1193 Death of Saladin at Damascus, the night of March 3rd. + + 1203 Fourth Crusade under the pontificate of Innocent III. + + 1205 Amaury II. dies in the Spring. + + 1212 Crusade of the fifty thousand children. + + 1217 Fifth Crusade under the pontificate of Honorius III. + + 1219 Francis of Assisi in Palestine. + + 1229 Sixth Crusade under the pontificate of Gregory IX. The sultan, + Malek-Kamel, cedes Jerusalem to Frederic without combat. + + 1239 The Christians reconstruct the ramparts of Jerusalem, with + Thibaut, count of Champagne, and king of Navarre; but the + prince of Kerek enters the city and destroys the new + fortifications and the Tower of David. + + 1240 Richard of Cornwall, brother of Henry III., king of England, + arrives in Palestine with an army of English Crusaders. + + 1244 The Tartars under Gengis Khan take and destroy Jerusalem. + + -- Palestine remains in possession of the Egyptians. + + 1248 Louis IX. undertakes a Crusade under the pontificate of + Innocent IV. + + 1254 Louis IX. abandons Palestine upon the news of queen Blanche's + death. + + 1270 Louis IX. undertakes a fresh Crusade. + + -- Louis IX. dies at Tunis, August 25th. + + 1271 Prince Edward, son of Henry III. of England, in the East. He + is wounded with a dagger by an emissary of the Old Man of + the Mountain, but is saved by the princess Eleanor, his + wife. + + 1291 The Crusaders lose S. Jean d'Acre, their last possession in + Palestine. + + 1313 Robert of Anjou, king of Naples, causes the disciples of + S. Francis of Assisi to be admitted into Jerusalem. + + 1491 The Franciscans of Mount Sion dispersed in the reign of sultan + Malec-dhaher-djahmak. + + 1517-18 Selim I., sultan of Constantinople, conquers Syria and + Palestine. + + 1534 Sultan Solyman, son of Selim I., builds the wall of the city, + together with many edifices and fountains. + + 1799 Napoleon Bonaparte in Palestine. + + 1832 Conquest of Syria and Palestine by Ibrahim Pasha. + + 1841 Syria and Palestine restored to the Sultan. + + 1859 Surraya Pasha, governor of Palestine, subdues the chiefs of + the country, and restores tranquillity. + + 1860 Massacre of the Christians in the Lebanon and at Damascus. + Palestine remains tranquil under the good government of + Surraya Pasha. + + + + +PRINCIPAL PASSAGES FROM THE HOLY BIBLE + +BEARING UPON THE STATEMENTS IN THE TEXT. + + +GENESIS. + +[Sidenote: Valley of Shaveh, which is the king's dale.] + +"And the king of Sodom went out to meet him after his return from the +slaughter of Chedorlaomer, and of the kings that were with him, at the +valley of Shaveh, which is the king's dale." xiv. 17. (page 1.) + +[Sidenote: Salem.] + +"And Melchizedek king of Salem brought forth bread and wine." xiv. 18. +(p. 1.) + +[Sidenote: Moriah.] + +"And he said, Take now thy son, thine only son Isaac, whom thou lovest, +and get thee into the land of Moriah; and offer him there for a burnt +offering upon one of the mountains which I will tell thee of." xxii. 2. +(pp. 17, 46.) + +[Sidenote: Jehovah-jireh.] + +"And Abraham called the name of that place Jehovah-jireh: as it is said +to this day, In the mount of the Lord it shall be seen." xxii. 14. (pp. +17, 46.) + + +EXODUS. + +[Sidenote: Altar of stone.] + +"And if thou wilt make me an altar of stone, thou shalt not build it of +hewn stone: for if thou lift up thy tool upon it, thou hast polluted +it." xx. 25. (p. 54.) + +"Neither shalt thou go up by steps unto mine altar, that thy nakedness +be not discovered thereon." xx. 26. (p. 89.) + + +LEVITICUS. + +[Sidenote: Altar.] + +"And he shall kill it on the side of the altar northward before the +Lord: and the priests, Aaron's sons, shall sprinkle his blood round +about upon the altar." i. 11. (pp. 50, 89.) + +[Sidenote: Place of the ashes.] + +"And he shall pluck away his crop with his feathers, and cast it beside +the altar on the east part, by the place of the ashes." i. 16. (pp. 50, +92.) + + +DEUTERONOMY. + +[Sidenote: Altar of stones.] + +"And there shalt thou build an altar unto the Lord thy God, an altar of +stones: thou shalt not lift up any iron tool upon them." xxvii. 5. (p. +54.) + +[Sidenote: Of whole stones.] + +"Thou shalt build the altar of the Lord thy God of whole stones: and +thou shalt offer burnt offerings thereon unto the Lord thy God." xxvii. +6. (p. 54.) + + +JOSHUA. + +[Sidenote: Jerusalem.] + +"Now it came to pass, when Adoni-zedek king of Jerusalem had heard how +Joshua had taken Ai," &c. x. 1. (pp. 1, 2.) + +[Sidenote: Jebusites.] + +"As for the Jebusites the inhabitants of Jerusalem, the children of +Judah could not drive them out: but the Jebusites dwell with the +children of Judah at Jerusalem unto this day." xv. 63. (p. 2.) + +[Sidenote: Valley of the son of Hinnom.] + +[Sidenote: Valley of the giants. En-Rogel.] + +"And the border came down to the end of the mountain that lieth before +the valley of the son of Hinnom, and which is in the valley of the +giants on the north, and descended to the valley of Hinnom, to the side +of Jebusi on the south, and descended to En-rogel." xviii. 16. (pp. 17, +22, 188, 204, 290.) + + +JUDGES. + +[Sidenote: Jebusites that inhabited Jerusalem.] + +"And the children of Benjamin did not drive out the Jebusites that +inhabited Jerusalem; but the Jebusites dwell with the children of +Benjamin in Jerusalem unto this day." i. 21. (pp. 2, 22.) + +[Sidenote: Jebus, which is Jerusalem.] + +"But the man would not tarry that night, but he rose up and departed, +and came over against Jebus, which is Jerusalem; and there were with him +two asses saddled, his concubine also was with him." xix. 10. (p. 1.) + + +2 SAMUEL. + +[Sidenote: David went to Jerusalem.] + +"And the king and his men went to Jerusalem unto the Jebusites, the +inhabitants of the land: which spake unto David, saying, Except thou +take away the blind and the lame, thou shalt not come in hither: +thinking, David cannot come in hither." v. 6. (pp. 2, 16, 22.) + +[Sidenote: Stronghold of Zion. City of David.] + +"Nevertheless David took the stronghold of Zion: the same is the city of +David." v. 7. (pp. 2, 16, 22, 210.) + +[Sidenote: Millo.] + +"So David dwelt in the fort, and called it the city of David. And David +built round about from Millo and inward." v. 9. (pp. 2, 16, 22, 23, 24, +210.) + +[Sidenote: Hiram. Masons.] + +"And Hiram king of Tyre sent messengers to David, and cedar-trees, and +carpenters, and masons: and they built David an house." v. 11. (p. 22.) + +[Sidenote: Valley of Rephaim.] + +"The Philistines also came and spread themselves in the valley of +Rephaim." v. 18. (p. 194.) + +[Sidenote: Mount Olivet.] + +"And David went up by the ascent of mount Olivet, and wept as he went +up," &c. xv. 30. (p. 21.) + +[Sidenote: Absalom.] + +"And they took Absalom, and cast him into a great pit in the wood, and +laid a very great heap of stones upon him; and all Israel fled every one +to his tent." xviii. 17. (p. 182.) + +[Sidenote: His place.] + +"Now Absalom in his lifetime had taken and reared up for himself a +pillar, which is in the king's dale: for he said, I have no son to keep +my name in remembrance: and he called the pillar after his own name: and +it is called unto this day, Absalom's place." xviii. 18. (pp. 47, 182.) + +[Sidenote: Araunah the Jebusite.] + +"And when the angel stretched out his hand upon Jerusalem to destroy it, +the Lord repented him of the evil, and said to the angel that destroyed +the people, It is enough: stay now thine hand. And the angel of the Lord +was by the threshingplace of Araunah the Jebusite." xxiv. 16. (pp. 24, +46.) + +[Sidenote: Altar on his threshingfloor.] + +"And Gad came that day to David, and said unto him, Go up, rear an altar +unto the Lord in the threshingfloor of Araunah the Jebusite." xxiv. 18. +(pp. 24, 46.) + +"So David bought the threshingfloor and the oxen for fifty shekels of +silver." xxiv. 24. (pp. 24, 46.) + +"And David built there an altar unto the Lord, and offered burnt +offerings and peace offerings. So the Lord was intreated for the land, +and the plague was stayed from Israel." xxiv. 25. (pp. 24, 46.) + + +1 KINGS. + +[Sidenote: En-Rogel.] + +"And Adonijah slew sheep and oxen and fat cattle by the stone of +Zoheleth, which is by En-rogel, and called all his brethren the king's +sons, and all the men of Judah the king's servants." i. 9. (pp. 188, +290.) + +[Sidenote: Gihon.] + +"So Zadok the priest, and Nathan the prophet, and Benaiah the son of +Jehoiada, and the Cherethites, and the Pelethites, went down, and caused +Solomon to ride upon king David's mule, and brought him to Gihon." i. +38. (p. 21.) + +"And Adonijah and all the guests that were with him heard it as they had +made an end of eating. And when Joab heard the sound of the trumpet, he +said, Wherefore is this noise of the city being in an uproar?" i. 41. +(p. 290.) + +[Sidenote: David buried.] + +"So David slept with his fathers, and was buried in the city of David." +ii. 10. (p. 210.) + +[Sidenote: Solomon, and the wall of Jerusalem.] + +"And Solomon made affinity with Pharaoh king of Egypt, and took +Pharaoh's daughter, and brought her into the city of David, until he had +made an end of building his own house, and the house of the Lord, and +the wall of Jerusalem round about." iii. 1. (p. 24.) + +[Sidenote: Builders of Solomon and Hiram.] + +"And Solomon's builders and Hiram's builders did hew them, and the +stonesquarers: so they prepared timber and stones to build the house." +v. 18. (p. 48.) + +[Sidenote: House which king Solomon built for the Lord.] + +"And the house which king Solomon built for the Lord, the length thereof +was threescore cubits, and the breadth thereof twenty cubits, and the +height thereof thirty cubits." vi. 2. (p. 49.) + +[Sidenote: Stone.] + +"And the house, when it was in building, was built of stone made ready +before it was brought thither: so that there was neither hammer nor axe +nor any tool of iron heard in the house, while it was in building." vi. +7. (p. 48.) + +[Sidenote: Oracle.] + +"And the oracle he prepared in the house within, to set there the ark of +the covenant of the Lord." vi. 19. (p. 49.) + +[Sidenote: Altar.] + +"And the oracle in the forepart was twenty cubits in length, and twenty +cubits in breadth, and twenty cubits in the height thereof: and he +overlaid it with pure gold." vi. 20. (p. 49.) + +[Sidenote: Stones.] + +"All these were of costly stones, according to the measures of hewed +stones, sawed with saws, within and without, even from the foundation +unto the coping, and so on the outside toward the great court." vii. 9. +(p. 48.) + +"And the foundation was of costly stones, even great stones, stones of +ten cubits, and stones of eight cubits." vii. 10. (p. 48.) + +[Sidenote: Millo and the wall of Jerusalem.] + +"And this is the reason of the levy which king Solomon raised; for to +build the house of the Lord, and his own house, and Millo, and the wall +of Jerusalem." ix. 15. (pp. 24, 25.) + +"But Pharaoh's daughter came up out of the city of David unto her house +which Solomon had built for her: then did he build Millo." ix. 24. (p. +25.) + +[Sidenote: High places in the hill before Jerusalem.] + +"Then did Solomon build an high place for Chemosh, the abomination of +Moab, in the hill that is before Jerusalem, and for Molech, the +abomination of the children of Ammon." xi. 7. (p. 21, 204.) + +[Sidenote: Millo.] + +"And this was the cause that he lifted up his hand against the king: +Solomon built Millo, and repaired the breaches of the city of David his +father." xi. 27. (pp. 24, 25.) + +[Sidenote: Solomon buried.] + +"And Solomon slept with his fathers, and was buried in the city of David +his father." xi. 43. (p. 310.) + +[Sidenote: Shishak.] + +"And it came to pass in the fifth year of king Rehoboam, that Shishak +king of Egypt came up against Jerusalem." xiv. 25. (pp. 2, 50.) + +[Sidenote: Rehoboam buried.] + +"And Rehoboam slept with his fathers, and was buried with his fathers in +the city of David." xiv. 31. (p. 310.) + + +2 KINGS. + +[Sidenote: Ahaziah buried.] + +"And his servants carried him in a chariot to Jerusalem, and buried him +in his sepulchre with his fathers in the city of David." ix. 28. (p. +310.) + +[Sidenote: Joash, House of Millo, Silla.] + +"And his servants arose, and made a conspiracy, and slew Joash in the +house of Millo, which goeth down to Silla." xii. 20. (pp. 25, 253.) + +[Sidenote: Conduit of upper pool.] + +"And the king of Assyria sent Tartan and Rabsaris and Rab-shakeh from +Lachish to king Hezekiah with a great host against Jerusalem. And they +went up and came to Jerusalem. And when they were come up, they came and +stood by the conduit of the upper pool, which is in the highway of the +fuller's field." xviii. 17. (pp. 39, 241, 252.) + +[Sidenote: The people on the wall.] + +"Then said Eliakim the son of Hilkiah, and Shebna, and Joah, unto +Rab-shakeh, Speak, I pray thee, to thy servants in the Syrian language; +for we understand it: and talk not with us in the Jews' language in the +ears of the people that are on the wall." xviii. 26. (p. 252.) + +[Sidenote: Hezekiah.] + +[Sidenote: Pool. Conduit. Water into the city.] + +"And the rest of the acts of Hezekiah, and all his might, and how he +made a pool, and a conduit, and brought water into the city, are they +not written in the book of the chronicles of the kings of Judah?" xx. +20. (pp. 14, 24, 25, 32.) + +"And Hezekiah slept with his fathers." xx. 21. (p. 310.) + +[Sidenote: Manasseh buried in the garden of Uzza.] + +"And Manasseh slept with his fathers, and was buried in the garden of +his own house, in the garden of Uzza." xxi. 18. (pp. 184, 310.) + +[Sidenote: Amon buried in same place.] + +"And he was buried in his sepulchre in the garden of Uzza." xxi. 26. +(pp. 184, 310.) + +[Sidenote: Huldah.] + +"So Hilkiah the priest, and Ahikam, and Achbor, and Shaphan, and +Asahiah, went unto Huldah the prophetess, the wife of Shallum the son of +Tikvah, the son of Harhas, keeper of the wardrobe; (now she dwelt in +Jerusalem in the college;) and they communed with her." xxii. 14. (pp. +25, 70.) + +[Sidenote: Josiah. The graves of the children of the people.] + +"And he brought out the grove from the house of the Lord, without +Jerusalem, unto the brook Kidron, and burned it at the brook Kidron, and +stamped it small to powder, and cast the powder thereof upon the graves +of the children of the people." xxiii. 6. (pp. 39, 168.) + +[Sidenote: Topheth, Hinnom.] + +"And he defiled Topheth, which is in the valley of the children of +Hinnom, that no man might make his son or his daughter to pass through +the fire to Molech." xxiii. 10. (pp. 21, 310.) + +[Sidenote: Places before Jerusalem.] + +"And the high places that were before Jerusalem, which were on the right +hand of the mount of corruption, which Solomon," &c. xxiii. 13. (p. 21.) + +[Sidenote: Josiah buried.] + +"And his servants carried him in a chariot dead from Megiddo, and +brought him to Jerusalem, and buried him in his own sepulchre." xxiii. +30. (p. 310.) + +[Sidenote: Nebuchadnezzar.] + +"At that time the servants of Nebuchadnezzar king of Babylon came up +against Jerusalem, and the city was besieged." xxiv. 10. (pp. 2, 50.) + +"And he carried away all Jerusalem, and all the princes, and all the +mighty men of valour, even ten thousand captives, and all the craftsmen +and smiths: none remained, save the poorest sort of the people of the +land." xxiv. 14. (pp. 2, 50.) + +[Sidenote: Gate between two walls. King's garden.] + +"And the city was broken up, and all the men of war fled by night by the +way of the gate between two walls, which is by the king's garden: (now +the Chaldees were against the city round about:) and the king went the +way toward the plain." xxv. 4. (pp. 26, 182, 188.) + +[Sidenote: Nebuzar-adan came unto Jerusalem.] + +"And in the fifth month, on the seventh day of the month, which is the +nineteenth year of king Nebuchadnezzar king of Babylon, came +Nebuzar-adan, captain of the guard, a servant of the king of Babylon, +unto Jerusalem." xxv. 8. (p. 2.) + +[Sidenote: Burnt the house of the Lord, &c.] + +"And he burnt the house of the Lord, and the king's house, and all the +houses of Jerusalem, and every great man's house burnt he with fire." +xxv. 9. (pp. 2, 50.) + +[Sidenote: Walls of Jerusalem.] + +"And all the army of the Chaldees, that were with the captain of the +guard, brake down the walls of Jerusalem round about." xxv. 10. (p. 2.) + +[Sidenote: People that remained.] + +"But the captain of the guard left of the poor of the land to be +vinedressers and husbandmen." xxv. 12. (p. 50.) + + +1 CHRONICLES. + +[Sidenote: Castle of Zion. City of David.] + +"And the inhabitants of Jebus said to David, Thou shalt not come hither. +Nevertheless David took the castle of Zion, which is the city of David." +xi. 5. (pp. 2, 16.) + +"And David dwelt in the castle; therefore they called it the city of +David." xi. 7. (p. 22.) + +[Sidenote: Works of David and Joab.] + +"And he built the city round about, even from Millo round about: and +Joab repaired the rest of the city." xi. 8. (pp. 23, 24.) + +[Sidenote: Ornan the Jebusite.] + +"Then the angel of the Lord commanded Gad to say to David, that David +should go up, and set up an altar unto the Lord in the threshingfloor of +Ornan the Jebusite." xxi. 18. (pp. 24, 46.) + +"So David gave to Ornan for the place six hundred shekels of gold by +weight." xxi. 25. (p. 46.) + +[Sidenote: David built there an altar, &c.] + +"And David built there an altar unto the Lord, and offered burnt +offerings and peace offerings, and called upon the Lord; and he answered +him from heaven by fire upon the altar of burnt offering." xxi. 26. (p. +46.) + + +2 CHRONICLES. + +[Sidenote: Moriah.] + +"Then Solomon began to build the house of the Lord at Jerusalem in mount +Moriah, where the Lord appeared unto David his father, in the place that +David had prepared in the threshingfloor of Ornan the Jebusite." iii. 1. +(pp. 17, 24.) + +[Sidenote: House of God.] + +"Now these are the things wherein Solomon was instructed for the +building of the house of God. The length by cubits after the first +measure was threescore cubits, and the breadth twenty cubits." iii. 3. +(p. 48.) + +"And he made the most holy house, the length whereof was according to +the breadth of the house, twenty cubits, and the breadth thereof twenty +cubits." iii. 8. (p. 48.) + +[Sidenote: Altar of brass.] + +"Moreover he made an altar of brass, twenty cubits the length thereof, +and twenty cubits the breadth thereof, and ten cubits the height +thereof." iv. 1. (p. 49.) + +[Sidenote: Solomon buried.] + +"And Solomon slept with his fathers, and he was buried in the city of +David his father: and Rehoboam his son reigned in his stead." ix. 31. +(p. 310.) + +[Sidenote: Asa buried.] + +"And they buried him in his own sepulchres, which he had made for +himself in the city of David, and laid him in the bed which was filled +with sweet odours and divers kinds of spices prepared by the +apothecaries' art: and they made a very great burning for him." xvi. 14. +(p. 310.) + +[Sidenote: Jehoram buried.] + +"Thirty and two years old was he when he began to reign, and he reigned +in Jerusalem eight years, and departed without being desired. Howbeit +they buried him in the city of David, but not in the sepulchres of the +kings." xxi. 20. (p. 310.) + +[Sidenote: Athaliah.] + +"So they laid hands on her; and when she was come to the entering of the +horse gate by the king's house, they slew her there." xxiii. 15. (p. +26.) + +[Sidenote: Joash buried.] + +"And they buried him in the city of David, but they buried him not in +the sepulchres of the kings." xxiv. 25. (p. 310.) + +[Sidenote: Amaziah buried.] + +"And they brought him upon horses, and buried him with his fathers in +the city of Judah." xxv. 28. (p. 310.) + +[Sidenote: Uzziah built towers at the corner gate and valley gate.] + +"Moreover Uzziah built towers in Jerusalem at the corner gate, and at +the valley gate, and at the turning of the wall, and fortified them." +xxvi. 9. (p. 26.) + +[Sidenote: Uzziah buried.] + +"So Uzziah slept with his fathers, and they buried him with his fathers +in the field of the burial which belonged to the kings; for they said, +He is a leper: and Jotham his son reigned in his stead." xxvi. 23. (p. +310.) + +[Sidenote: Jotham. Ophel.] + +"He built the high gate of the house of the Lord, and on the wall of +Ophel he built much." xxvii. 3. (p. 25.) + +[Sidenote: Ahaz buried.] + +"And Ahaz slept with his fathers, and they buried him in the city, even +in Jerusalem: but they brought him not into the sepulchres of the kings +of Israel." xxviii. 27. (p. 310.) + +[Sidenote: Hezekiah stopped the waters of the fountains.] + +"He took counsel with his princes and his mighty men to stop the waters +of the fountains which were without the city: and they did help him." +xxxii. 3. (pp. 241, 252.) + +[Sidenote: The people stopped all the fountains.] + +"So there was gathered much people together, who stopped all the +fountains, and the brook that ran through the midst of the land, saying, +Why should the kings of Assyria come, and find much water?" xxxii. 4. +(pp. 241, 252.) + +[Sidenote: Hezekiah repaired Millo.] + +"Also he strengthened himself, and built up all the wall that was +broken, and raised it up to the towers, and another wall without, and +repaired Millo in the city of David, and made darts and shields in +abundance." xxxii. 5. (pp. 25, 252.) + +[Sidenote: Stopped the upper watercourse of Gihon.] + +"This same Hezekiah also stopped the upper watercourse of Gihon, and +brought it straight down to the west side of the city of David." xxxii. +30. (pp. 21, 241, 251, 252.) + +[Sidenote: Hezekiah buried.] + +"And Hezekiah slept with his fathers, and they buried him in the +chiefest of the sepulchres of the sons of David." xxxii. 33. (p. 310.) + +[Sidenote: Manasseh built on the west side of Gihon. Ophel.] + +"Now after this he built a wall without the city of David, on the west +side of Gihon, in the valley, even to the entering in at the fish gate, +and compassed about Ophel, and raised it up a very great height." +xxxiii. 14. (pp. 2, 17, 21, 26.) + +[Sidenote: Manasseh buried.] + +"So Manasseh slept with his fathers, and they buried him in his own +house: and Amon his son reigned in his stead." xxxiii. 20. (p. 310.) + +[Sidenote: Chaldees burnt the house of God, and brake down the wall of +Jerusalem.] + +"And they burnt the house of God, and brake down the wall of Jerusalem, +and burnt all the palaces thereof with fire, and destroyed all the +goodly vessels thereof." xxxvi. 19. (p. 50.) + + +EZRA. + +[Sidenote: House of God. Zerubbabel.] + +"But many of the priests and Levites and chief of the fathers, who were +ancient men, that had seen the first house, when the foundation of this +house was laid before their eyes, wept with a loud voice; and many +shouted aloud for joy." iii. 12. (p. 51.) + +[Sidenote: Zerubbabel builds the house of God.] + +"Then rose up Zerubbabel, ... and began to build the house of God which +is at Jerusalem: and with them were the prophets of God helping them." +v. 2. (p. 51.) + +[Sidenote: House of God. Cyrus.] + +"In the first year of Cyrus the king the same Cyrus the king made a +decree concerning the house of God at Jerusalem, Let the house be +builded, the place where they offered sacrifices, and let the +foundations thereof be strongly laid; the height thereof threescore +cubits, and the breadth thereof threescore cubits." vi. 3. (p. 51.) + + +NEHEMIAH. + +[Sidenote: Gate of the valley. Dragon well. Dung port.] + +"And I went out by night by the gate of the valley, even before the +dragon well, and to the dung port, and viewed the walls of Jerusalem, +which were broken down, and the gates thereof were consumed with fire." +ii. 13. (pp. 27, 286.) + +[Sidenote: Gate of the fountain. King's pool.] + +"Then I went on to the gate of the fountain, and to the king's pool: but +there was no place for the beast that was under me to pass." ii. 14. (p. +286.) + +[Sidenote: The sheep gate. Tower Meah. Tower Hananeel.] + +"Then Eliashib the high priest rose up with his brethren the priests, +and they builded the sheep gate; they sanctified it, and set up the +doors of it; even unto the tower of Meah they sanctified it, unto the +tower of Hananeel." iii. 1. (p. 27.) + +[Sidenote: Fish gate.] + +"But the fish gate did the sons of Hassenaah build." iii. 3. (p. 27.) + +[Sidenote: Old gate repaired.] + +"Moreover the old gate repaired Jehoiada the son of Paseah, and +Meshullam the son of Besodeiah." iii. 6. (p. 27.) + +[Sidenote: The broad wall.] + +"... and they fortified Jerusalem unto the broad wall." iii. 8. (p. 27.) + +[Sidenote: Tower of the furnaces.] + +"... repaired the other piece, and the tower of the furnaces." iii. 11. +(p. 27.) + +[Sidenote: The valley gate. The dung gate.] + +"The valley gate repaired Hanun, and the inhabitants of Zanoah; they +built it, and set up the doors thereof, the locks thereof, and the bars +thereof, and a thousand cubits on the wall unto the dung gate." iii. 13. +(pp. 27, 286.) + +[Sidenote: The dung gate.] + +"But the dung gate repaired Malchiah." iii. 14. (p. 27.) + +[Sidenote: Gate of the fountain. Pool of Siloah. King's garden. The +stairs, &c.] + +"But the gate of the fountain repaired Shallun ... he built it ... and +the wall of the pool of Siloah by the king's garden, and unto the stairs +that go down from the city of David." iii. 15. (pp. 27, 185, 210.) + +[Sidenote: Sepulchres of David. Pool that was made.] + +"After him repaired Nehemiah ... unto the place over against the +sepulchres of David, and to the pool that was made." iii. 16. (pp. 27, +210.) + +[Sidenote: Ophel. The water gate.] + +"Moreover the Nethinims dwelt in Ophel, unto the place over against the +water gate toward the east, and the tower that lieth out." iii. 26. (p. +27.) + +[Sidenote: Wall of Ophel.] + +"After them the Tekoites repaired another piece, over against the great +tower that lieth out, even unto the wall of Ophel." iii. 27. (p. 27.) + +[Sidenote: The east gate.] + +"... After him repaired also Shemaiah the son of Shechaniah, the keeper +of the east gate." iii. 29. (p. 27.) + +[Sidenote: Building of the wall.] + +"They which builded on the wall, and they that bare burdens, with those +that laded, every one with one of his hands wrought in the work, and +with the other hand held a weapon." iv. 17. (p. 285.) + +[Sidenote: Building of the wall.] + +"For the builders, every one had his sword girded by his side, and so +builded. And he that sounded the trumpet was by me." iv. 18. (p. 285.) + +[Sidenote: Wall finished.] + +"So the wall was finished in the twenty and fifth day of the month Elul, +in fifty and two days." vi. 15. (p. 285.) + +[Sidenote: Plain country round about Jerusalem.] + +"And the sons of the singers gathered themselves together, both out of +the plain country round about Jerusalem, and from the villages of +Netophathi." xii. 28. (p. 43.) + +[Sidenote: Villages round about Jerusalem.] + +"Also from the house of Gilgal, and out of the fields of Geba and +Azmaveth: for the singers had builded them villages round about +Jerusalem." xii. 29. (p. 43.) + +[Sidenote: Dung gate.] + +"Then I brought up the princes of Judah upon the wall, and appointed two +great companies of them that gave thanks, whereof one went on the right +hand upon the wall toward the dung gate." xii. 31. (p. 27.) + +[Sidenote: Fountain and Water gates, Stairs, &c.] + +"And at the fountain gate, which was over against them, they went up by +the stairs of the city of David, at the going up of the wall, above the +house of David, even unto the water gate eastward." xii. 37. (p. 27.) + +[Sidenote: Tower of the furnaces. Broad wall.] + +"And the other company of them that gave thanks went over against them, +and I after them, and the half of the people upon the wall, from beyond +the tower of the furnaces even unto the broad wall." xii. 38. (p. 27.) + +[Sidenote: Gates, and Tower of Hananeel.] + +"And from above the gate of Ephraim, and above the old gate, and above +the fish gate, and the tower of Hananeel, and the tower of Meah, even +unto the sheep gate: and they stood still in the prison gate." xii. 39. +(pp. 27, 144, 286.) + + +ECCLESIASTES. + +[Sidenote: Gardens.] + +"I made me gardens and orchards, and I planted trees in them of all kind +of fruits." ii. 5. (p. 246.) + +[Sidenote: Pools.] + +"I made me pools of water, to water therewith the wood that bringeth +forth trees." ii. 6. (p. 246.) + + +ISAIAH. + +[Sidenote: Upper pool. Fuller's field.] + +"Then said the Lord unto Isaiah, Go forth now to meet Ahaz, thou, and +Shear-jashub thy son, at the end of the conduit of the upper pool in the +highway of the fuller's field." vii. 3. (pp. 241, 251.) + +[Sidenote: Waters of Shiloah.] + +"Forasmuch as this people refuseth the waters of Shiloah that go softly, +and rejoice in Rezin and Remaliah's son." viii. 6. (p. 185.) + +[Sidenote: Lower pool.] + +"Ye have seen also the breaches of the city of David, that they are +many: and ye gathered together the waters of the lower pool." xxii. 9. +(p. 209.) + +[Sidenote: Of the old pool.] + +"Ye made also a ditch between the two walls for the water of the old +pool: but ye have not looked unto the maker thereof, neither had respect +unto him that fashioned it long ago." xxii. 11. (p. 31.) + +[Sidenote: Kings of Assyria. Conduit of upper pool. Fuller's field.] + +"And the king of Assyria sent Rab-shakeh from Lachish to Jerusalem unto +king Hezekiah with a great army. And he stood by the conduit of the +upper pool in the highway of the fuller's field." xxxvi. 2. (p. 39.) + +[Sidenote: People on the wall.] + +"Then said Eliakim and Shebna and Joah unto Rab-shakeh, Speak, I pray +thee, unto thy servants in the Syrian language; for we understand it: +and speak not to us in the Jews' language, in the ears of the people +that are on the wall." xxxvi. 11. (p. 252.) + +"Then the angel of the Lord went forth, and smote in the camp of the +Assyrians a hundred and fourscore and five thousand: and when they arose +early in the morning, behold, they were all dead corpses." xxxvii. 36. +(p. 241.) + + +JEREMIAH. + +[Sidenote: Tophet. Hinnom.] + +"Therefore, behold, the days come, saith the Lord, that it shall no more +be called Tophet, nor the valley of the son of Hinnom, but the valley of +slaughter: for they shall bury in Tophet, till there be no place." vii. +32. (pp. 21, 205.) + +[Sidenote: Hinnom. East gate.] + +"And go forth unto the valley of the son of Hinnom, which is by the +entry of the east gate, and proclaim there the words that I shall tell +thee." xix. 2. (p. 286.) + +[Sidenote: Tophet.] + +"And shalt say unto them, Thus saith the Lord of hosts; Even so will I +break this people and this city, as one breaketh a potter's vessel, +that cannot be made whole again: and they shall bury them in Tophet, +till there be no place to bury." xix. 11. (pp. 21, 205, 206.) + +[Sidenote: Gate of Benjamin.] + +"Then Pashur smote Jeremiah the prophet, and put him in the stocks that +were in the high gate of Benjamin, which was by the house of the Lord." +xx. 2. (p. 26.) + +[Sidenote: Jehoiakim's burial.] + +"He shall be buried with the burial of an ass, drawn and cast forth +beyond the gates of Jerusalem." xxii. 19. (p. 310.) + +[Sidenote: Graves of the common people.] + +"And they fetched forth Urijah out of Egypt, and brought him unto +Jehoiakim the king; who slew him with the sword, and cast his dead body +into the graves of the common people." xxvi. 23. (pp. 39, 168.) + +[Sidenote: Gate of the corner. Tower of Hananeel.] + +"Behold, the days come, saith the Lord, that the city shall be built to +the Lord from the tower of Hananeel unto the gate of the corner." xxxi. +38. (p. 26.) + +[Sidenote: Gareb. Goath.] + +"And the measuring line shall yet go forth over against it upon the hill +Gareb, and shall compass about to Goath." xxxi. 39. (p. 18.) + +[Sidenote: Valley of the dead bodies, &c.] + +[Sidenote: Horse gate.] + +"And the whole valley of the dead bodies, and of the ashes, and all the +fields unto the brook of Kidron, unto the corner of the horse gate +toward the east, shall be holy unto the Lord; it shall not be plucked +up, nor thrown down any more for ever." xxxi. 40. (p. 26.) + +[Sidenote: Jeremiah's dungeon.] + +"When Jeremiah was entered into the dungeon, and into the cabins, and +Jeremiah had remained there many days." xxxvii. 16. (p. 229.) + +[Sidenote: Bakers' street.] + +"Then Zedekiah the king commanded that they should commit Jeremiah into +the court of the prison, and that they should give him daily a piece of +bread out of the bakers' street, until all the bread in the city were +spent. Thus Jeremiah remained in the court of the prison." xxxvii. 21. +(p. 229.) + +[Sidenote: Gate between the two walls. King's garden.] + +"Then the city was broken up, and all the men of war fled, and went +forth out of the city by night by the way of the gate between the two +walls, which was by the king's garden; (now the Chaldeans were by the +city round about:) and they went by the way of the plain." lii. 7. (pp. +26, 188.) + +[Sidenote: People carried away captive.] + +"This is the people whom Nebuchadnezzar carried away captive: in the +seventh year three thousand Jews and three and twenty." lii. 28. (p. +50.) + +"In the eighteenth year of Nebuchadnezzar he carried away captive from +Jerusalem eight hundred thirty and two persons." lii. 29. (p. 50.) + +"In the three and twentieth year of Nebuchadnezzar Nebuzar-adan the +captain of the guard carried away captive of the Jews seven hundred +forty and five persons: all the persons were four thousand and six +hundred." lii. 30. (p. 50.) + + +EZEKIEL. + +[Sidenote: Cubits.] + +"And behold a wall on the outside of the house round about, and in the +man's hand a measuring reed of six cubits long by the cubit and an hand +breadth: so he measured the breadth of the building, one reed; and the +height, one reed." xl. 5. (p. 283.) + +[Sidenote: Tables of sin offering.] + +"And in the porch of the gate were two tables on this side, and two +tables on that side, to slay thereon the burnt offering and the sin +offering and the trespass offering." xl. 39. (pp. 55, 91.) + +[Sidenote: North gate, tables.] + +"And at the side without, as one goeth up to the entry of the north +gate, were two tables; and on the other side, which was at the porch of +the gate, were two tables." xl. 40. (p. 50, 55, 91.) + +[Sidenote: Cubits.] + +"I saw also the height of the house round about: the foundations of the +side chambers were a full reed of six great cubits." xli. 8. (p. 283.) + +[Sidenote: East Gate.] + +"And the glory of the Lord came into the house by the way of the gate +whose prospect is towards the east." xliii. 4. (p. 27.) + +[Sidenote: Carcases of the kings.] + +"... shall the house of Israel no more defile, neither they, nor their +kings, by their whoredom, nor by the carcases of their kings in their +high places." xliii. 7. + +"Now let them put away their whoredom, and the carcases of their kings, +far from me, and I will dwell in the midst of them for ever." xliii. 9. + +[Sidenote: Cubit.] + +"And these are the measures of the altar after the cubits: The cubit is +a cubit and an hand breadth." xliii. 13. (pp. 49, 283.) + +[Sidenote: Waters.] + +"Afterward he brought me again unto the door of the house; and, behold, +waters issued out from under the threshold of the house eastward: for +the forefront of the house stood toward the east, and the waters came +down from under from the right side of the house, at the south side of +the altar." xlvii. 1. (p. 256.) + + +JOEL. + +[Sidenote: Valley of Jehoshaphat.] + +"I will also gather all nations, and will bring them down into the +valley of Jehoshaphat, and will plead with them there for my people and +for my heritage Israel, whom they have scattered among the nations, and +parted my land." iii. 2. (pp. 168, 307.) + +[Sidenote: Valley of Jehoshaphat.] + +"Let the heathen be wakened, and come up to the valley of Jehoshaphat: +for there will I sit to judge all the heathen round about." iii. 12. +(pp. 168, 307.) + + +MICAH. + +[Sidenote: Zion a field.] + +"Therefore shall Zion for your sake be plowed as a field, and Jerusalem +shall become heaps, and the mountain of the house as the high places of +the forest." iii. 12. (pp. 3, 193.) + + +ZEPHANIAH. + +[Sidenote: Fish gate. Second gate.] + +"And it shall come to pass in that day, saith the Lord, that there shall +be the noise of a cry from the fish gate, and an howling from the +second, and a great crashing from the hills." i. 10. (pp. 25, 26.) + + +S. MATTHEW. + +[Sidenote: Fig tree.] + +"And when he saw a fig tree in the way, he came to it, and found nothing +thereon, but leaves only, and said unto it, Let no fruit grow on thee +henceforward for ever. And presently the fig tree withered away." xxi. +19. (p. 204.) + +[Sidenote: Gethsemane.] + +"Then cometh Jesus with them unto a place called Gethsemane, and saith +unto the disciples, Sit ye here, while I go and pray yonder." xxvi. 36. +(p. 177.) + +[Sidenote: Jesus prayed.] + +"And he went a little farther, and fell on his face, and prayed, saying, +O my Father, if it be possible, let this cup pass from me: nevertheless +not as I will, but as thou wilt." xxvi. 39. (p. 177.) + +[Sidenote: Disciples asleep.] + +"And he cometh unto the disciples, and findeth them asleep, and saith +unto Peter, What, could ye not watch with me one hour?" xxvi. 40. (p. +179.) + +[Sidenote: Judas.] + +"And while he yet spake, lo, Judas, one of the twelve, came, and with +him a great multitude with swords and staves, from the chief priests and +elders of the people." xxvi. 47. (p. 179.) + +[Sidenote: Betrayal.] + +"Now he that betrayed him gave them a sign, saying, Whomsoever I shall +kiss, that same is he: hold him fast." xxvi. 48. (p. 179.) + +[Sidenote: Caiaphas.] + +"And they that had laid hold on Jesus led him away to Caiaphas the high +priest, where the scribes and the elders were assembled." xxvi. 57. (p. +220.) + +[Sidenote: St. Peter.] + +"Now Peter sat without in the palace: and a damsel came unto him, +saying, Thou also wast with Jesus of Galilee." xxvi. 69. (p. 221.) + +[Sidenote: S. Peter's denial.] + +"But he denied before them all, saying, I know not what thou sayest." +xxvi. 70. (p. 221.) + +[Sidenote: S. Peter wept bitterly.] + +"And Peter remembered the word of Jesus, which said unto him, Before the +cock crow, thou shalt deny me thrice. And he went out, and wept +bitterly." xxvi. 75. (p. 221.) + +[Sidenote: Potter's field.] + +"And they took counsel, and bought with them the potter's field, to bury +strangers in." xxvii. 7. (p. 206.) + +[Sidenote: Field of Blood.] + +"Wherefore that field was called, The field of blood, unto this day." +xxvii. 8. (p. 206.) + +[Sidenote: Crown of thorns.] + +"And when they had platted a crown of thorns, they put it upon his head, +and a reed in his right hand: and they bowed the knee before him, and +mocked him, saying, Hail, King of the Jews!" xxvii. 29. (p. 138.) + +[Sidenote: Crucify him.] + +"And after that they had mocked him, they took the robe off from him, +and put his own raiment on him, and led him away to crucify him." xxvii. +31. (p. 138.) + +[Sidenote: Cyrenian, Simon by name.] + +"And as they came out, they found a man of Cyrene, Simon by name: him +they compelled to bear his cross." xxvii. 32. (p. 142.) + +[Sidenote: Golgotha.] + +"And when they were come unto a place called Golgotha, that is to say, a +place of a skull." xxvii. 33. (pp. 107, 122.) + +[Sidenote: Parting the garments.] + +"And they crucified him, and parted his garments, casting lots." xxvii. +35. + +[Sidenote: Rocks rent.] + +"And, behold, the veil of the temple was rent in twain from the top to +the bottom; and the earth did quake, and the rocks rent." xxvii. 51. + +[Sidenote: Joseph.] + +"And when Joseph had taken the body, he wrapped it in a clean linen +cloth," xxvii. 59. (p. 103.) + +[Sidenote: New tomb.] + +"And laid it in his own new tomb, which he had hewn out in the rock: and +he rolled a great stone to the door of the sepulchre, and departed." +xxvii. 60. (p. 103.) + +[S. Mary Magdalene.] + +"And there was Mary Magdalene, and the other Mary, sitting over against +the sepulchre." xxvii. 61. (p. 104.) + +[Sidenote: Angel rolled back the stone.] + +"And, behold, there was a great earthquake: for the angel of the Lord +descended from heaven, and came and rolled back the stone from the door, +and sat upon it." xxviii. 2. (pp. 116, 118.) + + +S. MARK. + +[Sidenote: Passover.] + +"And wheresoever he shall go in, say ye to the goodman of the house, The +Master saith, Where is the guest-chamber, where I shall eat the passover +with my disciples?" xiv. 14. (p. 216.) + +[Sidenote: Large upper room.] + +"And he will shew you a large upper room furnished and prepared: there +make ready for us." xiv. 15. (p. 216.) + +[Sidenote: Sepulchre.] + +"And entering into the sepulchre, they saw a young man sitting on the +right side, clothed in a long white garment; and they were affrighted." +xvi. 5. (p. 118.) + + +S. LUKE. + +[Sidenote: The rich man (Dives).] + +"There was a certain rich man, which was clothed in purple and fine +linen, and fared sumptuously every day." xvi. 19. (p. 142.) + +[Sidenote: Lazarus.] + +"And there was a certain beggar named Lazarus, which was laid at his +gate, full of sores." xvi. 20. (p. 142.) + +[Sidenote: Jesus wept over the city.] + +"And when he was come near, he beheld the city, and wept over it." xix. +41. (p. 190.) + +[Sidenote: Coenaculum.] + +"And he shall shew you a large upper room furnished: there make ready." +xxii. 12. (p. 216.) + +[Sidenote: Gethsemane.] + +"And being in an agony he prayed more earnestly: and his sweat was as it +were great drops of blood falling down to the ground." xxii. 44. (p. +177.) + +[Sidenote: Herod. Pilate.] + +"And Herod with his men of war set him at nought, and mocked him, and +arrayed him in a gorgeous robe, and sent him again to Pilate." xxiii. +11. (p. 141.) + +[Sidenote: Daughters of Jerusalem.] + +"But Jesus turning unto them said, Daughters of Jerusalem, weep not for +me, but weep for yourselves, and for your children." xxiii. 28. (p. +144.) + +[Sidenote: Sepulchre hewn in stone.] + +"And he took it down, and wrapped it in linen, and laid it in a +sepulchre that was hewn in stone, wherein never man before was laid." +xxiii. 53. (p. 103.) + +[Sidenote: Emmaus.] + +"And, behold, two of them went that same day to a village called Emmaus, +which was from Jerusalem about threescore furlongs." xxiv. 13. + +[Sidenote: Bethany.] + +"And he led them out as far as to Bethany, and he lifted up his hands, +and blessed them." xxiv. 50. (p. 191.) + + +S. JOHN. + +[Sidenote: Temple.] + +"Then said the Jews, Forty and six years was this temple in building, +and wilt thou rear it up in three days?" ii. 20. (pp. 53, 55.) + +[Sidenote: Bethesda.] + +"Now there is at Jerusalem by the sheep market a pool, which is called +in the Hebrew tongue Bethesda, having five porches." v. 2. (pp. 59, 66.) + +"And immediately the man was made whole, and took up his bed, and +walked: and on the same day was the sabbath." v. 9. (p. 66.) + +[Sidenote: Siloam.] + +"And said unto him, Go, wash in the pool of Siloam, (which is by +interpretation, Sent.) He went his way therefore, and washed, and came +seeing." ix. 7. (pp. 185, 187.) + +[Sidenote: Bethany.] + +"Now Bethany was nigh unto Jerusalem, about fifteen furlongs off." xi. +18. (p. 201.) + +[Sidenote: Cave of Lazarus.] + +"Jesus therefore again groaning in himself cometh to the grave. It was a +cave, and a stone lay upon it." xi. 38. (p. 201.) + +[Sidenote: Raising of Lazarus.] + +"And when he had thus spoken, he cried with a loud voice, Lazarus, come +forth." xi. 43. (p. 201.) + +[Sidenote: Cedron. Garden.] + +"When Jesus had spoken these words, he went forth with his disciples +over the brook Cedron, where was a garden, into the which he entered, +and his disciples." xviii. 1. (pp. 170, 177.) + +[Sidenote: Annas. Caiaphas.] + +"And led him away to Annas first; for he was father in law to Caiaphas, +which was the high priest that same year." xviii. 13. (p. 156.) + +[Sidenote: Pilate.] + +"Then Pilate entered into the judgment hall again, and called Jesus, and +said unto him, Art thou the King of the Jews?" xviii. 33. (pp. 135, 137, +295.) + +[Sidenote: Scourged by Pilate.] + +"Then Pilate therefore took Jesus, and scourged him." xix. 1. (p. 139.) + +[Sidenote: Pavement. Gabbatha.] + +"When Pilate therefore heard that saying, he brought Jesus forth, and +sat down in the judgment seat in a place that is called the Pavement, +but in the Hebrew, Gabbatha." xix. 13. (p. 295.) + +[Sidenote: Golgotha.] + +"And he bearing his cross went forth into a place called the place of a +skull, which is called in the Hebrew Golgotha." xix. 17. (pp. 107, 122.) + +[Sidenote: Place of Crucifixion.] + +"This title then read many of the Jews: for the place where Jesus was +crucified was nigh to the city: and it was Written in Hebrew, and Greek, +and Latin." xix. 20. (p. 103.) + +[Sidenote: Garments of Jesus.] + +"Then the soldiers, when they had crucified Jesus, took his garments, +and made four parts, to every soldier a part; and also his coat: now the +coat was without seam, woven from the top throughout." xix. 23. + +[Sidenote: Garden. New Sepulchre.] + +"Now in the place where he was crucified there was a garden; and in the +garden a new sepulchre, wherein was never man yet laid." xix. 41. (pp. +32, 103, 104.) + +[Sidenote: nigh at hand.] + +"There laid they Jesus therefore because of the Jews' preparation day; +for the sepulchre was nigh at hand." xix. 42. (p. 104.) + +[Sidenote: Gardener.] + +"Jesus saith unto her, Woman, why weepest thou? whom seekest thou? She, +supposing him to be the gardener, saith unto him, Sir, if thou have +borne him hence, tell me where thou hast laid him, and I will take him +away." xx. 15. + + +THE ACTS OF THE APOSTLES. + +[Sidenote: Ascension.] + +"And when he had spoken these things, while they beheld, he was taken +up; and a cloud received him out of their sight." i. 9. (p. 191.) + +[Sidenote: Ye men of Galilee.] + +"Which also said, Ye men of Galilee, why stand ye gazing up into heaven? +this same Jesus, which is taken up from you into heaven, shall so come +in like manner as ye have seen him go into heaven." i 11. (p. 191.) + +[Sidenote: Sabbath-day's journey.] + +"Then returned they unto Jerusalem from the mount called Olivet, which +is from Jerusalem a sabbath day's journey." i. 12. (pp. 21, 191, 284.) + +[Sidenote: Aceldama.] + +"And it was known unto all the dwellers at Jerusalem; insomuch as that +field is called in their proper tongue, Aceldama, that is to say, The +field of blood." i. 19. (p. 206.) + +[Sidenote: Pentecost.] + +"And when the day of Pentecost was fully come, they were all with one +accord in one place." ii. 1. (p. 217.) + +[Sidenote: Sepulchre of David.] + +"Men and brethren, let me freely speak unto you of the patriarch David, +that he is both dead and buried, and his sepulchre is with us unto this +day." ii. 29. (p. 211.) + +[Sidenote: Gate of the temple.] + +"And a certain man lame from his mother's womb was carried, whom they +laid daily at the gate of the temple which is called Beautiful, to ask +alms of them that entered into the temple." iii. 2. + +[Sidenote: S. Stephen stoned.] + +"And cast him out of the city, and stoned him: and the witnesses laid +down their clothes at a young man's feet, whose name was Saul." vii. 58. +(pp. 168, 223.) + +[Sidenote: S. James martyred.] + +"And he killed James the brother of John with the sword." xii. 2. (p. +157.) + + + + +PASSAGES FROM JOSEPHUS'S ANTIQUITIES OF THE JEWS, + +TAKEN FROM THE ENGLISH TRANSLATION OF + +WILLIAM WHISTON, A.M. + + +[Sidenote: King of Salem.] + +[Sidenote: King's Dale.] + +"So Abram, when he had saved the captive Sodomites, who had been taken +by the Assyrians, and Lot also, his kinsman, returned home in peace. Now +the king of Sodom met him at a certain place, which they called the +King's Dale, where Melchisedec, king of the city Salem, received him. +That name signifies the righteous king; and such he was, without +dispute, insomuch that, on this account, he was made the priest of God: +however, they afterwards called Salem Jerusalem." Book I. chap. X. par. +2. + +[Sidenote: King of Jerusalem.] + +"But the king of Jerusalem took it to heart, that the Gibeonites had +gone over to Joshua; so he called upon the kings of the neighbouring +nations to join together, and make war against them." V. I. 17. + +[Sidenote: The allies, that is, the tribes of Judah and Simeon. The +lower city.] + +"And when they had taken the greatest part of them [the cities], they +besieged Jerusalem; and when they had taken the lower city, which was +not under a considerable time, they slew all the inhabitants; but the +upper city was not to be taken without great difficulty, through the +strength of its walls, and the nature of the place." V. II. 2. + +[Sidenote: David takes the city by assault.] + +"Now the Jebusites, who were the inhabitants of Jerusalem, and were by +extraction Canaanites, shut their gates, and placed the blind, and the +lame, and all their maimed persons, upon the wall, in way of derision of +the king; and said, that the very lame themselves would hinder his +entrance into it. This they did out of contempt of his power, and as +depending on the strength of their walls. David was hereby enraged, and +began the siege of Jerusalem, and employed his utmost diligence and +alacrity therein, as intending by the taking of this place to +demonstrate his power, and to intimidate all others that might be of the +like [evil] disposition towards him; so he took the lower city by force, +but the citadel held out still; whence it was that the king, knowing +that the proposal of dignities and rewards would encourage the soldiers +to greater actions, promised that he who should first go over the +ditches that were beneath the citadel, and should ascend to the citadel +itself and take it, should have the command of the entire people +conferred upon him. So they all were ambitious to ascend, and thought no +pains too great in order to ascend thither; out of their desire of the +chief command. However, Joab, the son of Zeruiah, prevented the rest; +and as soon as he was got up to the citadel, cried out to the king, and +claimed the chief command." VII. III. 1. + +[Sidenote: City of David.] + +"When David had cast the Jebusites out of the citadel, he also rebuilt +Jerusalem, and named it, 'The City of David,' and abode there all the +time of his reign." VII. III. 2. + +[Sidenote: Hiram, king of Tyre.] + +[Sidenote: The lower city united with the upper.] + +"Hiram also, the king of the Tyrians, sent ambassadors to him, and made +a league of mutual friendship and assistance with him. He also sent him +presents, cedar-trees and mechanics, and men skilful in building and +architecture, that they might build him a royal palace at Jerusalem. Now +David made buildings round about the lower city: he also joined the +citadel to it, and made it one body; and when he had encompassed all +with walls, he appointed Joab to take care of them. It was David, +therefore, who first cast the Jebusites out of Jerusalem, and called it +by his own name, the City of David: for under our forefather, Abraham, +it was called [Salem or] Solyma." VII. III. 2. + +[Sidenote: Araunah the Jebusite is saved by David.] + +"I shall now make mention of Araunah, who was a wealthy man among the +Jebusites, but was not slain by David in the siege of Jerusalem, because +of the good-will he bore to the Hebrews, and a particular benignity and +affection which he had to the king himself, which I shall take a more +seasonable opportunity to speak a little of afterwards." VII. III. 3. + +[Sidenote: Tomb of Absalom.] + +"Joab's armour-bearers stood round about the tree, and pulled down his +dead body, and cast it into a great chasm that was out of sight, and +laid a heap of stones upon him till the cavity was filled up, and had +both the appearance and bigness of a grave." VII. X. 2. + +[Sidenote: Absalom's Pillar. King's Dale.] + +"Now Absalom had erected for himself a marble pillar in the king's dale, +two furlongs distant from Jerusalem, which he named Absalom's Hand." +VII. X. 3. + +[Sidenote: Gibeon forty furlongs from Jerusalem.] + +"And when he was come to Gibeon, which is a village forty furlongs +distant from Jerusalem." VII. XI. 7. + +[Sidenote: Altar in the threshing floor of Araunah.] + +"And sent Gad the prophet to him, and commanded him to go up immediately +to the threshing floor of Araunah, the Jebusite, and build an altar +there to God, and offer sacrifices." VII. XIII. 4. + +[Sidenote: Mount Moriah.] + +"Now it happened that Abraham came and offered his son Isaac for a +burnt-offering at that very place." VII. XIII. 4. + +[Sidenote: Place of the temple.] + +"Now when king David saw that God had heard his prayer, and had +graciously accepted of his sacrifice, he resolved to call that entire +place the altar of all the people, and to build a temple to God there." +VII. XIII. 4. + +[Sidenote: David buried at Jerusalem.] + +"He was buried by his son Solomon, in Jerusalem, with great +magnificence, and with all the other funeral pomp which kings used to be +buried with; moreover, he had great and immense wealth buried with him." +VII. XV. 3. + +[Sidenote: Solomon fortifies Jerusalem.] + +"He married the daughter of Pharaoh, king of Egypt, and built the walls +of Jerusalem, much larger and stronger than those that had been before, +and thenceforward he managed public affairs very peaceably." VIII. II. +1. + +[Sidenote: Foundations of the temple.] + +"Now, therefore, the king laid the foundations of the temple very deep +in the ground, and the materials were strong stones, and such as would +resist the force of time." VIII. III. 2. + +[Sidenote: Dimensions of the temple.] + +"Now when the king had divided the temple into two parts, he made the +inner house of twenty cubits [every way] to be the most secret chamber, +but he appointed that of forty cubits to be the sanctuary." VIII. III. +3. + +[Sidenote: Altar of burnt offerings.] + +"Solomon made the altar which he built for the burnt-offerings twenty +cubits long, twenty broad, and ten high." VIII. III. 7. + +[Sidenote: Size of the stones.] + +"Some of these [houses] Solomon built with stones of ten cubits." VIII. +V. 2. + +[Sidenote: Solomon increases the fortifications of Jerusalem.] + +"Now when the king saw that the walls of Jerusalem stood in need of +being better secured, and made stronger (for he thought the walls that +encompassed Jerusalem ought to correspond to the dignity of the city), +he both repaired them, and made them higher, with great towers upon +them." VIII. VI. 1. + +[Sidenote: Jeroboam.] + +"And when Solomon saw that he was of an active and bold disposition, he +made him the curator of the walls which he built round Jerusalem." VIII. +VII. 7. + +[Sidenote: Solomon interred at Jerusalem.] + +"So Solomon died when he was already an old man, having reigned eighty +years, and lived ninety-four. He was buried in Jerusalem." VIII. VII. 8. + +[Sidenote: The Egyptian king Shishak at Jerusalem.] + +"So when Shishak had taken the city without fighting, because Rehoboam +was afraid, and received him into it, yet did not Shishak stand to the +covenants he had made, but he spoiled the temple, and emptied the +treasures of God, and those of the king, and carried off innumerable ten +thousands of gold and silver, and left nothing at all behind him." VIII. +X. 3. + +[Sidenote: Destruction of Sennacherib's army.] + +"Now when Sennacherib was returning from his Egyptian war to Jerusalem, +he found his army, under Rabshakeh his general, in danger [by a plague, +for] God had sent a pestilential distemper upon his army; and on the +very first night of the siege a hundred fourscore and five thousand, +with their captains and generals, were destroyed." X. I. 5. + +[Sidenote: Nebuchadnezzar burns the temple.] + +"And when he had carried these off, he set fire to the temple in the +fifth month, the first day of the month, in the eleventh year of the +reign of Zedekiah, and in the eighteenth year of Nebuchadnezzar; he also +burnt the King's palace, and overthrew the city. Now the temple was +burnt four hundred and seventy years, six months, and ten days after it +was built." X. VIII. 5. + +[Sidenote: Alexander the Great at Jerusalem.] + +"Now Alexander, when he had taken Gaza, made haste to go up to +Jerusalem; and Jaddua, the high-priest, when he heard that, was in an +agony and under terror." XI. VIII. 4. + +[Sidenote: Sapha.] + +"It reached to a place called Sapha, which name, translated into Greek, +signifies a prospect; for you have thence a prospect both of Jerusalem +and of the temple." XI. VIII. 5. + +[Sidenote: Ptolemy, son of Lagus, at Jerusalem.] + +"Syria, by the means of Ptolemy, the son of Lagus, underwent the reverse +of that denomination of Saviour which he then had. He also seized upon +Jerusalem, and for that end made use of deceit and treachery; for he +came into the city on a sabbath-day, as if he would offer sacrifices." +XII. I. 1. + +[Sidenote: Antiochus Epiphanes at Jerusalem.] + +"King Antiochus returning out of Egypt, for fear of the Romans, made an +expedition against the city Jerusalem; and when he was there, in the +hundred forty and third year of the kingdom of the Seleucidæ, he took +the city without fighting, those of his own party opening the gates to +him. And when he had gotten possession of Jerusalem, he slew many of the +opposite party; and when he had plundered it of a great deal of money, +he returned to Antioch." XII. V. 3. + +[Sidenote: Cruelty of Antiochus, who builds the citadel in the lower +part of the city.] + +"And when he had pillaged the whole city, some of the inhabitants he +slew, and some he carried captive, together with their wives and +children, so that the multitude of those captives that were taken alive +amounted to about ten thousand. He also burnt down the finest buildings; +and when he had overthrown the city-walls, he built a citadel in the +lower part of the city; for the place was high, and overlooked the +temple, on which account he fortified it with high walls and towers; and +put into it a garrison of Macedonians." XII. V. 4. + +[Sidenote: Mattathias.] + +"Now this Mattathias lamented to his children the sad state of their +affairs, and the ravage made in the city, and the plundering of the +temple, and the calamities the multitude were under; and he told them +that it was better for them to die for the laws of their country than +to live so ingloriously as they then did." XII. VI. 1. + +[Sidenote: Judas repairs the walls of Jerusalem.] + +"Judas also rebuilt the walls round about the city, and reared towers of +great height against the incursions of enemies, and set guards therein." +XII. VII. 7. + +[Sidenote: Simon, master of the citadel of Jerusalem, razes it with the +ground.] + +"He also took the citadel of Jerusalem by siege, and cast it down to the +ground, that it might not be any more a place of refuge to their enemies +when they took it, to do them mischief, as it had been till now. And +when he had done this, he thought it their best way, and most for their +advantage, to level the very mountain itself upon which the citadel +happened to stand, that so the temple might be higher than it." XIII. +VI. 7. + +[Sidenote: Hyrcanus opens the tomb of David.] + +"But Hyrcanus opened the sepulchre of David, who excelled all other +kings in riches, and took out of it three thousand talents. He was also +the first of the Jews that, relying on his wealth, maintained foreign +troops." XIII. VIII. 4. + +[Sidenote: Aristobulus causes the death of Antigonus.] + +"Aristobulus yielded to these imputations, but took care both that his +brother should not suspect him, and that he himself might not run the +hazard of his own safety; so he ordered his guards to lie in a certain +place that was underground, and dark, (he himself then lying sick in the +tower which was called Antonia)." XIII. XI. 2. + +[Sidenote: Antigonus killed in the tower of Strato.] + +"So Antigonus, suspecting no treachery, but depending on the good-will +of his brother, came to Aristobulus armed, as he used to be, with his +entire armour, in order to show it to him; but when he was come to a +place which was called Strato's Tower, where the passage happened to be +exceeding dark, the guards slew him." XIII. XI. 2. + +[Sidenote: Pompeius approaches Jerusalem.] + +"At this Pompeius was very angry, and put Aristobulus into prison, and +came himself to the city, which was strong on every side, excepting the +north, which was not so well fortified, for there was a broad and deep +ditch that encompassed the city, and included within it the temple, +which was itself encompassed with a very strong stone wall." XIV. IV. 1. + +[Sidenote: Pompeius pitches his camp on the north side of the temple.] + +"Pompeius pitched his camp within [the wall], on the north part of the +temple, where it was most practicable; but even on that side there were +great towers, and a ditch had been dug, and a deep valley begirt it +round about, for on the parts towards the city were precipices, and the +bridge on which Pompeius had gotten in was broken down." XIV. IV. 2. + +[Sidenote: Aristobulus interred in the tomb of the kings.] + +"His dead body also lay, for a good while, embalmed in honey, till +Antonius afterward sent it to Judea, and caused him to be buried in the +royal sepulchre." XIV. VII. 4. + +[Sidenote: Troops of Herod and Sosius.] + +"And they all met together at the walls of Jerusalem, and encamped at +the north wall of the city, being now an army of eleven legions, armed +men on foot, and six thousand horsemen, with other auxiliaries out of +Syria." XIV. XVI. 1. + +[Sidenote: Herod's siege.] + +"The first wall was taken in forty days, and the second in fifteen more, +when some of the cloisters that were about the temple were burnt, which +Herod gave out to have been burnt by Antigonus, in order to expose him +to the hatred of the Jews. And when the outer court of the temple, and +the lower city, were taken, the Jews fled into the inner court of the +temple, and into the upper city." XIV. XVI. 2. + +[Sidenote: Herod's theatre, amphitheatre.] + +"He built a theatre at Jerusalem, as also a very great amphitheatre in +the plain." XV. VIII. 1. + +[Sidenote: Herod's two fortresses.] + +"He had now the city fortified by the palace in which he lived and by +the temple which had a strong fortress by it, called Antonia." XV. VIII. +5. + +[Sidenote: Dimensions of Herod's temple.] + +"So Herod took away the old foundations, and laid others, and erected +the temple upon them, being in length a hundred cubits, and in height +twenty additional cubits, which [twenty], upon the sinking of their +foundations, fell down; and this part it was that we resolved to raise +again in the days of Nero. Now the temple was built of stones that were +white and strong, and each of their length was twenty-five cubits, their +height was eight, and their breadth about twelve." XV. XI. 3. + +[Sidenote: Tower of Baris, afterwards called Antonia.] + +"Now on the north side [of the temple] was built a citadel, whose walls +were square, and strong, and of extraordinary firmness. This citadel was +built by the kings of the Asamonean race, who were also high-priests +before Herod, and they called it the Tower." XV. XI. 4. + +[Sidenote: Tower Antonia.] + +"... when Herod the king of the Jews had fortified it more firmly than +before, in order to secure and guard the temple, he gratified Antonius, +who was his friend and the Roman ruler, and then gave it the name of the +Tower of Antonia." XV. XI. 4. + +[Sidenote: Four gates to the north of the temple-enclosure.] + +"Now in the western quarters of the enclosure of the temple there were +four gates; the first led to the king's palace, and went to a passage +over the intermediate valley; two more led to the suburbs of the city; +and the last led to the other city, where the road descended down into +the valley by a great number of steps, and thence up again by the +ascent; for the city lay over against the temple in the manner of a +theatre, and was encompassed with a deep valley along the entire south +quarter." XV. XI. 5. + +[Sidenote: Herod's subterranean gallery from the Antonia tower to the +eastern gate.] + +"There was also an occult passage built for the king; it led from +Antonia to the inner temple, at its eastern gate; over which he also +erected for himself a tower, that he might have the opportunity of a +subterraneous ascent to the temple, in order to guard against any +sedition which might be made by the people against their kings." XV. XI. +7. + +[Sidenote: Herod opens the tomb of David.] + +"... he had a great while an intention to make the attempt; and at this +time he opened that sepulchre by night and went into it, and endeavoured +that it should not be at all known in the city, but took only his most +faithful friends with him. As for any money, he found none, as Hyrcanus +had done, but that furniture of gold, and those precious goods that were +laid up there; all which he took away. However, he had a great desire to +make a more diligent search, and to go farther in, even as far as the +very bodies of David and Solomon; where two of his guards were slain by +a flame that burst out upon those that went in, as the report was. So he +was terribly affrighted, and went out, and built a propitiatory monument +of that fright he had been in; and this of white stone, at the mouth of +the sepulchre, and at a great expense also." XVI. VII. 1. + +[Sidenote: Pilate constructs acqueducts.] + +"But Pilate undertook to bring a current of water to Jerusalem, and did +it with the sacred money, and derived the origin of the stream from the +distance of two hundred furlongs. However, the Jews were not pleased +with what had been done about this water; and many ten thousands of the +people got together and made a clamour against him, and insisted that he +should leave off that design." XVIII. III. 2. + +[Sidenote: Jesus Christ.] + +"Now, there was about this time Jesus, a wise man, if it be lawful to +call him a man, for he was a doer of wonderful works, a teacher of such +men as receive the truth with pleasure. He drew over to him both many of +the Jews, and many of the Gentiles. He was [the] Christ. And when +Pilate, at the suggestion of the principal men among us, had condemned +him to the cross, those that loved him at the first did not forsake him; +for he appeared to them alive again the third day; as the divine +prophets had foretold these and ten thousand other wonderful things +concerning him. And the tribe of Christians, so named from him, are not +extinct at this day." XVIII. III. 3. + +[Sidenote: King Agrippa begins to fortify Jerusalem, but is prevented +from proceeding by Claudius.] + +"As for the walls of Jerusalem, that were adjoining to the new city +[Bezetha], he repaired them at the expense of the public, and built them +wider in breadth, and higher in altitude; and he had made them too +strong for all human power to demolish, unless Marcus, the then +president of Syria, had by letter informed Claudius Cæsar of what he was +doing. And when Claudius had some suspicion of attempts for innovation, +he sent to Agrippa to leave off the building of those walls presently. +So he obeyed; as not thinking it proper to contradict Claudius." XIX. +VII. 2. + +[Sidenote: Pyramids of Helena three furlongs from the city.] + +"But Monobazus sent her bones, as well as those of Izates, his brother, +to Jerusalem, and gave order that they should be buried at the pyramids +which their mother had erected; they were three in number, and distant +no more than three furlongs from the city of Jerusalem." XX. IV. 3. + +[Sidenote: Agrippa's palace, whence could be seen all that passed in the +temple.] + +"About the same time king Agrippa built himself a very large dining-room +in the royal palace at Jerusalem, near to the portico. Now this palace +had been erected of old by the children of Asamoneus, and was situated +upon an elevation, and afforded a most delightful prospect to those that +had a mind to take a view of the city, which prospect was desired by the +king; and there he could lie down and eat, and thence observe what was +done in the temple: which thing, when the chief men of Jerusalem saw, +they were very much displeased at it; for it was not agreeable to the +institutions of our country or law, that what was done in the temple +should be viewed by others, especially what belonged to the sacrifices. +They therefore erected a wall upon the uppermost building which belonged +to the inner court of the temple towards the west, which wall, when it +was built, did not only intercept the prospect of the dining-room in the +palace, but also of the western cloisters that belonged to the outer +court of the temple also, where it was that the Romans kept guards for +the temple at the festivals." XX. VIII. 11. + +[Sidenote: The younger Ananus, high-priest, puts S. James to death.] + +"Festus was now dead, and Albinus was but upon the road; so he assembled +the Sanhedrim of judges, and brought before them the brother of Jesus, +who was called Christ, whose name was James, and some others [or some of +his companions] and when he had formed an accusation against them as +breakers of the law, he delivered them to be stoned." XX. IX. 1. + +[Sidenote: King Agrippa refuses to rebuild the eastern gate of the +temple.] + +"... so they [the people] persuaded him to rebuild the eastern +cloisters. These cloisters belonged to the outer court, and were +situated in a deep valley, and had walls that reached four hundred +cubits [in length], and were built of square and very white stones, the +length of each of which stones was twenty cubits, and their height six +cubits. This was the work of king Solomon, who first of all built the +entire temple." XX. IX. 7. + + + + +PASSAGES FROM JOSEPHUS'S HISTORY OF THE JEWISH WAR, + +TAKEN FROM THE ENGLISH TRANSLATION OF + +ROBERT TRAILL, D.D. M.R.I.A. + + +[Sidenote: Antiochus Epiphanes at Jerusalem.] + +"That monarch, long intent on the enterprise, was prevailed on; and, +pressing forward at the head of a formidable army, he took Jerusalem by +assault, put to the sword vast numbers of those attached to the +interests of Ptolemy, allowed his troops unrestricted pillage, despoiled +the temple in person, and, during three years and six months, +interrupted the course of the daily sacrifices." I. I. 1. + +[Sidenote: Judas attacks the garrison at Jerusalem. Purifies the +temple.] + +"In the ardour of victory Judas attacked the garrison in the city, which +had not yet been reduced, and having expelled the troops from the upper +town, drove them into the lower, a quarter of the city called Acra. +Being now master of the temple, he purified the place throughout, and +walled it round." I. I. 4. + +[Sidenote: Hyrcanus opens David's tomb.] + +"Antiochus, enraged by what he had endured at the hands of Simon, led an +army into Judæa, and sitting down before Jerusalem, besieged Hyrcanus; +who, opening the sepulchre of David, the richest of kings, and privately +taking out upwards of three thousand talents in money, both induced +Antiochus, by the payment of three hundred, to raise the siege; and +also, from the remaining surplus, maintained--the first of the Jews to +do so--a mercenary force." I. II. 5. + +[Sidenote: Aristobulus. Antigonus. Tower of Baris.] + +"Gradually, and with reluctance, Aristobulus credited these +insinuations. Yet careful, at once, to avoid the semblance of suspicion, +and to provide against any covert attempt, he stationed his body-guards +in a dark subterraneous passage--he was himself at the time confined to +bed, in a tower formerly called Baris, but subsequently named +Antonia--with orders to allow Antigonus, if unarmed, to pass; but to +despatch him, should he approach in arms." I. III. 3. + +[Sidenote: Strato's Tower.] + +"But, on reaching the dark passage, known by the name of Strato's Tower, +he [Antigonus] was killed by the body-guards." I. III. 4. + +[Sidenote: Pompeius reconnoitres the city of Jerusalem.] + +"Incensed at this, Pompeius committed Aristobulus to custody; and having +advanced to the city, he considered well on what point he should direct +his attack. He found the walls, from their height, of almost impregnable +strength, with a frightful ravine in front of them: while within this +the temple was so strongly fortified, that, even after the capture of +the town, it would afford a second refuge to the enemy." I. VII. 1. + +[Sidenote: The bridge broken down by Aristobulus' party.] + +"The adherents of Aristobulus, being discomfited in the contest, retired +into the temple, and, breaking down the bridge which connected it with +the city, prepared to hold out to the last." I. VII. 2. + +[Sidenote: Pompeius fills up the fosse of the town.] + +"The Roman commander now filled up the fosse, and the whole of the +ravine, which lay on the north quarter, the troops collecting materials. +This was an undertaking of difficulty, not only on account of the +prodigious depth of the ravine, but from the impediments of every kind +offered by the Jews from above." I. VII. 3. + +[Sidenote: Herod rebuilds the temple.] + +[Sidenote: Palaces of Cæsarium and Agrippium.] + +"Herod, accordingly, at an incalculable expense, and in a style of +unsurpassed magnificence, in the fifteenth year of his reign, restored +the Temple, and breasted up with a wall the area round it, so as to +enlarge it to twice its former extent. An evidence of its sumptuousness +were the ample colonnades around the holy place, and the fort on its +northern side. The colonnades he reared from the foundation; the fort, +in nothing inferior to a palace, he repaired at an immense cost; and +called it Antonia, in honour of Antonius. He also constructed a +residence for himself in the upper town, containing two very spacious, +and not less beautiful buildings, with which the Temple itself bore no +comparison. These he designated after his friends, the one Cæsarium, the +other Agrippium." I. XXI. 1. + +[Sidenote: Pilate constructs acqueducts.] + +"He subsequently occasioned another tumult, by expending the sacred +treasure, called Corban, in the construction of an aqueduct. He brought +the water from a distance of four hundred furlongs. Indignant at this +profanation, the populace, on his return to Jerusalem, collected with +loud clamours about his tribunal." II. IX. 4. + +[Sidenote: Cestius encamps on Mount Scopus.] + +"Cestius, seeing that these intestine dissensions afforded him a +favourable opportunity for attack, led out his entire force, routed the +Jews, and pursued them to the gates of Jerusalem. Encamping at a place +called The Scopus, distant seven furlongs from the city, he for three +days suspended his operations against it." II. XIX. 4. + +[Sidenote: Cestius encamps opposite the royal palace.] + +"Cestius, on entering, set fire to Bezetha, so named, the Coenopolis, +and the place called the Timber Market; and, proceeding to the upper +town, encamped opposite the royal residence." II. XIX. 4. + +[Sidenote: Number of the troops of Titus engaged in the siege of +Jerusalem.] + +"For Titus, having drawn together part of his troops to himself, and +sent orders to the others to meet him at Jerusalem, broke up from +Cæsarea. There were the three legions which, under the command of his +father, had before ravaged Judæa, and the twelfth, that had formerly +been defeated with Cestius, and which, remarkable at all times for its +valour, on this occasion, from a recollection of what had befallen it, +advanced with greater alacrity to revenge. Of these, he directed the +fifth to join him by the route of Ammaus, and the tenth to go up by that +of Jericho; while he himself moved forward with the remainder, attended, +beside these, by the contingents from the allied sovereigns, all in +increased force, and by a considerable body of Syrian auxiliaries. + +"Detachments having been drafted by Vespasian from the four legions, and +sent with Mucianus into Italy, their places were filled up from among +the troops that had come with Titus. For two thousand men, selected from +among the forces of Alexandria, and three thousand of the guards from +the Euphrates, accompanied him; and with them, Tiberius Alexander." V. +I. 6. + +[Sidenote: Titus with 600 cavalry reconnoitres Jerusalem.] + +"Leading on his forces in orderly array, according to Roman usage, Titus +marched through Samaria to Gophna, which had been previously taken by +his father, and was then garrisoned. Here he rested for the night, and, +setting forward early in the morning, advanced a day's march, and +encamped in the valley, which is called by the Jews, in their native +tongue, 'The Valley of Thorns,' adjacent to a village named Gabath-Saul, +which signifies 'Saul's Hill,' distant from Jerusalem about thirty +furlongs. From hence, accompanied by about six hundred picked horsemen, +he rode forward to reconnoitre the strength of the city, and ascertain +the disposition of the Jews, whether, on seeing him, they would be +terrified into a surrender previous to any actual conflict." V. II. 1. + +[Sidenote: Titus attacked by the Jews by the monument of Helena.] + +[Sidenote: The Women's Towers.] + +"While he continued to ride along the direct route which led to the +wall, no one appeared before the gates; but on his filing off from the +road towards the tower Psephinus, and taking an oblique direction with +his squadron, the Jews suddenly rushed out in immense numbers at a spot +called 'The Women's Towers,' through the gate opposite the monuments of +Helena. They broke through his ranks, and placing themselves in front of +the troops who were still advancing along the road, prevented them from +joining their comrades, who had filed off, and thus intercepted Titus +with only a handful of men. For him to move forward was impossible; as +the entire space was intersected by transverse walls and numerous +fences, and separated from the ramparts by dykes made for gardening +purposes." V. II. 2. + +[Sidenote: Titus encamps at Scopus, seven furlongs from Jerusalem.] + +[Sidenote: The tenth legion upon the Mount of Olives.] + +"Cæsar, being joined during the night by the legion from Ammaus, moved +the next day from thence, and advanced to Scopus, as it is called, the +place from which the city first became visible, and the stately pile of +the sanctuary shone forth; whence it is that this spot--a flat adjoining +the northern quarter of the town--is appropriately called Scopus (the +Prospect). When at the distance of seven furlongs from the city, Titus +ordered a camp to be formed for two of the legions together; the fifth +he stationed three furlongs in rear of them: thinking that, as they had +been fatigued with their march during the night, they required to be +covered, that they might throw up their entrenchments with less +apprehension. Scarcely had they commenced their operations, when the +tenth legion arrived. It had advanced through Jericho, where a party of +soldiers had lain to guard the pass formerly taken possession of by +Vespasian. These troops had received orders to encamp at the distance of +six furlongs from Jerusalem, at the Mount of Olives, so called, which +lies over against the city on the east, and is separated from it by a +deep intervening ravine, which bears the name of Kedron." V. II. 3. + +[Sidenote: Titus levels the ground between Scopus and Jerusalem.] + +[Sidenote: Tomb of Herod. Serpents' Pool.] + +"Titus intending to break up from Scopus, and encamp nearer to the city, +stationed a body of picked men, horse and foot, in such force as he +deemed sufficient to check the sallies of the enemy, and employed the +main body of his army in levelling the intervening ground as far as the +walls. All the fences and hedges, with which the inhabitants had +enclosed their gardens and orchards, being accordingly swept away, and +the fruit trees in the whole of the intermediate distance felled, the +hollows and chasms of the place were filled up, and the rocky eminences +removed with iron implements; and thus the whole space from Scopus to +the monuments of Herod, adjacent to what is called 'The Serpents' Pool,' +was reduced to a level." V. III. 2. + +[Sidenote: Tomb of Helena. Sortie of the Jews.] + +"Accordingly, after maintaining a long contest with their spears, and +receiving many wounds from their opponents, but inflicting not fewer in +return, they eventually drove back the party who had surrounded them. +The Jews, however, as soon as they began to retire, pursued them as far +as the monuments of Helena, annoying them with missiles." V. III. 3. + +[Sidenote: Titus encamps opposite the Tower of Psephinus.] + +[Sidenote: Another division opposite the Tower of Hippicus, and the +tenth legion upon the Mount of Olives.] + +"In four days, the interval between his post and the walls having been +levelled, Titus, anxious to forward in safety the baggage and the +followers of the army, ranged the flower of his troops opposite the wall +on the northern quarter of the city, and extending towards the west, the +phalanx being drawn up seven deep. The infantry were disposed in front, +and the cavalry in rear, each in three ranks; the archers, who formed +the seventh, being in the middle. + +"The sallies of the Jews being checked by such an array, the beasts of +burthen belonging to the three legions, with the camp followers, passed +on in safety. Titus himself encamped about two furlongs from the +ramparts, at the corner opposite the tower called Psephinus, where the +circuit of the wall, in its advance along the north side, bends with a +western aspect. The other division of the army was entrenched opposite +to the tower named Hippicus, distant, in like manner, two furlongs from +the city. The tenth legion continued to occupy its position on the Mount +of Olives, as it is called." V. III. 5. + + * * * * * + +_Description of the walls of Jerusalem._ + +"Jerusalem, fortified by three walls--except where it was encompassed by +its impassable ravines, for there it had but a single rampart--was +built, the one division fronting the other, on two hills, separated by +an intervening valley, at which the rows of houses terminated. Of these +hills, that on which the upper town was situated is much higher and +straighter in its length. Accordingly, on account of its strength, it +was styled the Fortress by king David, the father of Solomon, by whom +the temple was originally erected; but by us the Upper Market-place. The +other, which bears the name of Acra, and supports the lower town, is of +a gibbous form. Opposite to this was a third hill, naturally lower than +Acra, and formerly severed from it by another broad ravine. Afterwards, +however, the Asmonæans, during their reign, filled up the ravine, with +the intention of uniting the city to the temple; and, levelling the +summit of Acra, they reduced its elevation, so that the temple might be +conspicuous above other objects in this quarter also. The Valley of the +Cheese-makers, as it was designated, which divided, as we have said, the +hill of the upper town from that of the lower, extended as far as +Siloam, as we call it, a fountain whose waters are at once sweet and +copious. On the exterior, the two hills on which the city stood were +skirted by deep ravines, so precipitous on either side that the town was +nowhere accessible." V. IV. 1. + +"Of the three walls, the most ancient, as well from the ravines which +surrounded it, as from the hill above them on which it was erected, was +almost impregnable. But, besides the advantages of its situation, it was +also strongly built; David and Solomon, as well as their successors on +the throne, having devoted much attention to the work. + +[Sidenote: First Wall.] + +"Beginning on the north at the tower called Hippicus, and extending to +what was termed the Xystus, it then formed a junction with the +council-house, and terminated at the western colonnade of the temple. On +the other side, towards the west, beginning at the same tower, it +stretched through Bethso, as it was styled, to the gate of the Essenes. +It then turned, and advanced with a southern aspect above the fountain +of Siloam, whence it again inclined, facing the east, towards Solomon's +reservoir, and extending to a certain spot, designated Ophla, it joined +the eastern colonnade of the temple. + +[Sidenote: Second Wall.] + +[Sidenote: Third Wall.] + +[Sidenote: King Agrippa commences the third Wall.] + +"The second had its beginning at the gate which they called Gennath, +belonging to the first wall. It reached to the Antonia, and encircled +only the northern quarter of the town. The tower Hippicus formed the +commencement of the third wall, which stretched from thence towards the +northern quarter, as far as the tower Psephinus, and then passing +opposite the monuments of Helena, Queen of Adiabene, and mother of king +Izates, and extending through the royal caverns, was inflected at the +corner tower near to the spot known by the appellation of the Fuller's +Tomb; and, connecting itself with the old wall, terminated at the valley +called Kedron. This wall Agrippa had thrown round the new-built town, +which was quite unprotected; for the city, overflowing with inhabitants, +gradually crept beyond the ramparts; and the people, incorporating with +the city the quarter north of the temple close to the hill, made a +considerable advance, insomuch that a fourth hill, which is called +Bezetha, was also surrounded with habitations. It lay over against the +Antonia, from which it was separated by a deep fosse, purposely +excavated to cut off the communication between the foundations of the +Antonia and the hill, that they might be at once less easy of access and +more elevated. Thus the depth of the trench materially increased the +altitude of the towers. + +"The quarter most recently built was called, in our language, Bezetha, +which, if translated into the Greek tongue, would be Cænopolis +(New-town). Those who resided there requiring defence, the father of the +present sovereign, and of the same name, Agrippa, commenced the wall we +have mentioned. But, apprehending that Claudius Cæsar might suspect from +the magnitude of the structure that he entertained some designs of +innovation and insurrection, he desisted when he had merely laid the +foundations. For, indeed, had he completed that wall upon the scale on +which it was begun, the city would have been impregnable. It was +constructed of stones twenty cubits long and ten broad, fitted into each +other in such a manner that they could scarcely have been undermined +with iron, or shaken by engines. The wall itself was ten cubits in +breadth; and it would probably have attained a greater height than it +did, had not the enterprising spirit of its founder met with a check; +but, subsequently, though the work was carried on with ardour by the +Jews, it only rose to the height of twenty cubits; while, crowning this, +were battlements of two cubits, upon parapets of three cubits in +altitude, so that it attained in its entire elevation twenty-five +cubits." V. IV. 2. + +[Sidenote: Description of the third Wall.] + +[Sidenote: Ninety towers in the third Wall.] + +"On this wall were erected towers, twenty cubits in breadth, and the +same in height, square, and solid as the wall itself. In the joining and +beauty of the stones, they were nowise inferior to the temple. Over the +solid altitude of the towers, which was twenty cubits, were sumptuous +apartments; and above these, again, upper rooms, and numerous cisterns +therein to receive the rain-water, and to each room wide staircases. Of +such towers the third wall had ninety, disposed at intervals of two +hundred cubits. + +[Sidenote: The middle Wall had fourteen towers, the ancient sixty.] + +[Sidenote: The Psephinus tower.] + +"The middle wall was divided into fourteen towers, and the ancient one +into sixty. Of the city the entire circuit was thirty-three furlongs. +But admirable as was the third wall throughout, still more so was the +tower Psephinus, which rose up at the north-west angle, and opposite to +which Titus encamped. Being seventy cubits high, it afforded at sunrise +a prospect of Arabia, and of the limits of the Hebrew territories as far +as the sea; it was octagonal in form. + +[Sidenote: Hippicus.] + +"Over against this was the tower Hippicus, and near to it two others, +all erected by king Herod in the ancient wall, which in magnitude, +beauty and strength, exceeded all that the world could produce." V. IV. +3. + +[Sidenote: Hippicus' Tower.] + +"Hippicus, so called from his friend, was quadrangular, its length and +breadth being each twenty-five cubits, and to the height of thirty +cubits it was solid throughout. Above this solid part, which was +constructed of stones formed into one compact mass, was a reservoir to +receive the rain, twenty cubits deep, over which was a house of two +stories, twenty-five cubits high, and divided into various apartments. +Above this were battlements of two cubits in height, mounted upon +parapets of three; so that the entire altitude amounted to eighty +cubits. + +[Sidenote: Phasaëlus.] + +"The second tower, which he named Phasaëlus, from his brother, was of +equal length and breadth, forty cubits each, and the same in solid +height. Over this, and embracing the whole of the structure, was a +gallery, ten cubits high, defended by breast-work and battlements.... + +[Sidenote: Mariamne.] + +"The third tower, Mariamne--for such was the queen's name--was solid to +the height of twenty cubits; its breadth, also, being twenty cubits, and +its length the same." V. IV. 3. + +"Of this the entire elevation was fifty-five cubits." V. IV. 3. + +[Sidenote: Site of the three towers.] + +"But while such was the actual magnitude of these three towers, their +site added much to their apparent dimensions. For the ancient wall in +which they stood was itself built on a lofty hill; and higher still rose +up in front, to the height of thirty cubits, a kind of crest of the +hill; on this the towers rested, and thus acquired a much greater +altitude.... + +"To these towers, which lay northward, was attached on the inner side +the royal residence, which exceeded all description.... + +"The conflagration began at Antonia, passed onward to the palace, and +consumed the roofs of the three towers." V. IV. 4. + +[Sidenote: The Temple.] + +"The temple, as I have said, was seated on a strong hill. Originally, +the level space on its summit scarcely sufficed for the sanctuary and +the altar, the ground about being abrupt and steep. But king Solomon, +who built the sanctuary, having completely walled up the eastern side, a +colonnade was built upon the embankment. On the other sides, the +sanctuary remained exposed. In process of time, however, as the people +were constantly adding to the embankment, the hill became level and +broader. They also threw down the northern wall, and enclosed as much +ground as the circuit of the temple at large subsequently occupied." V. +V. 1. + +[Sidenote: Circuit of the Temple six furlongs.] + +"The colonnades were thirty cubits broad, and their entire circuit, +including the Antonia, measured six furlongs." V. V. 2. + +[Sidenote: Dimensions of the Temple.] + +"Advancing within, the lower story of the sanctuary received you. This +was sixty cubits in height, and the same in length, while its breadth +was twenty cubits. These sixty cubits of length were again divided. The +first part partitioned off at forty cubits." V. V. 5. + +[Sidenote: Dimensions relative to the Temple.] + +"The innermost recess of the temple measured twenty cubits, and was +separated in like manner from the outer by a veil. In this, nothing +whatever was deposited. Unapproachable, inviolable, and to be seen by +none, it was called the Holy of the Holy." V. V. 5. + +[Sidenote: Position of the Antonia Tower.] + +"The Antonia lay at the angle formed by two colonnades, the western and +the northern, of the first court of the temple. It was built upon a rock +fifty cubits high, and on every side precipitous. It was a work of king +Herod, in which he particularly evinced the natural greatness of his +mind. For, first, the rock was covered from the base upwards with smooth +stone flags, as well for ornament, as that any one who attempted to +ascend or descend might slip off. Next, and in front of the edifice +itself, there was a wall of three cubits; and within this the entire +space occupied by the Antonia rose to an altitude of forty cubits. + +[Sidenote: Citadel in the upper town. Bezetha, north of the Temple.] + +"... The upper town had its own fortress--Herod's palace. The hill +Bezetha was detached, as I have mentioned, from the Antonia. It was the +highest of the three, and was joined on to part of the new town forming +northward the only obstruction to the view of the temple." V. V. 8. + +[Sidenote: Forces of the besieged in Jerusalem.] + +"The whole number of fighting men and insurgents in the city was as +follows. Attached to Simon were ten thousand men, irrespective of the +Idumæans. Over these were fifty officers, Simon himself acting as +Commander-in-chief. The Idumæans who joined his ranks, five thousand in +number, had ten leaders, of whom James, the son of Sosas, and Simon, the +son of Cathlas, were reputed to be the foremost. John, who had seized on +the temple, had under his orders six thousand men-at-arms, commanded by +twenty officers. The Zealots, also, had now laid aside their differences +and gone over to him, to the number of two thousand four hundred, led by +Eleazar, their former general, and Simon, son of Ari." V. VI. 1. + +[Sidenote: Position occupied by Simon.] + +[Sidenote: Position occupied by John.] + +"Simon occupied the upper town and the great wall, as far as the Kedron, +with as much of the old wall as, bending eastward from Siloam, descended +to the palace of Monobazus, king of Adiabene, beyond the Euphrates. He +held, likewise, the fountain and the Acra, which was the lower town, +with the interval as far as the palace of Helena, the mother of +Monobazus. John occupied the temple, and the parts about it to a +considerable distance, with Ophla, and the valley called Kedron." V. VI. +1. + +[Sidenote: Titus examines the Walls.] + +[Sidenote: Monument of the high priest John.] + +"While affairs in the city were in this posture, Titus, with a select +detachment of horse, rode round the wall, in order to ascertain against +what quarter he should direct his attack. Utterly at a loss on what side +to assail them, there being no access at any point through the ravines, +while on the other side, the first wall appeared too firm for the +engines, he determined to make the assault opposite to the monument of +John, the high priest, for at this point the outer bulwark was lower, +and the second was not connected, the builders having neglected to +fortify those places where the new town was thinly inhabited; but there +was easy access to the third wall, through which he designed to capture +the upper town, and through the Antonia, the temple." V. VI. 2. + +[Sidenote: Suburbs.] + +"He at once gave the legions permission to lay waste the suburbs, and +ordered them to collect the timber together for the construction of +mounds." V. VI. 2. + +[Sidenote: Taking of the first Wall.] + +"... The Romans having mounted where Nico had effected a breach, they +all abandoned their posts, and retreated to the second wall; when those +who had scaled the ramparts opened the gates, and admitted the entire +army. The Romans having thus, on the fifteenth day, which was the +seventh of the month Artemisius, become masters of the first wall, laid +a great part of it in ruins, as they did the northern quarters of the +city, which Cestius had formerly demolished." V. VII. 2. + +[Sidenote: Titus occupies the space between the camp of the Assyrians +and the Kedron.] + +[Sidenote: Gate of the aqueducts.] + +"Titus now transferred his camp to a place within the wall, styled the +Camp of the Assyrians, occupying the entire interval as far as the +Kedron, but keeping at such a distance from the second rampart as to be +out of range of the missiles, and immediately commenced the attack. The +Jews, dividing their forces, made a vigorous defence from the wall; John +and his party fighting from the Antonia, from the north colonnade of the +temple, and in front of the monuments of king Alexander; while Simon's +band, intercepting the assault near John's monument, manned the +intervening space as far as the gate through which the water was +introduced to the tower Hippicus." V. VII. 3. + +[Sidenote: Titus makes himself master of the second Wall.] + +"On the fifth day after the reduction of the first wall Cæsar stormed +the second at this point; and as the Jews fled from it, he entered with +a thousand men, and the select band which he retained about his person, +at that part of the new town where were the wool-marts, the braziers' +shops, and the clothes market, and where the streets led obliquely to +the ramparts." V. VIII. 1. + +[Sidenote: Titus exhibits his troops.] + +"The cessation he employed for his own purposes. The stated day for +distributing pay among the troops having arrived, he directed the +officers to draw out the force, and count out the money to each man in +view of the enemy." V. IX. 1. + +[Sidenote: The Jews see the review of the troops Titus.] + +"And nothing could be more gratifying to the Romans, or more terrifying +to the enemy than that spectacle. The whole of the ancient wall and the +northern quarter of the temple were crowded with spectators, and the +houses were to be seen filled with people on the look-out; nor was there +a spot in the city which was not covered with multitudes." V. IX. 1. + +[Sidenote: The Idumæans.] + +"Those at work beside the monument, the Idumæans, and the troops of +Simon, impeded by repeated sallies; while those before the Antonia were +obstructed by John and his associates, in conjunction with the Zealots." +V. IX. 2. + +[Sidenote: Mounds and their positions. Struthios reservoir.] + +[Sidenote: Amygdalon.] + +"One of those at the Antonia was thrown up by the fifth legion, opposite +to the middle of the reservoir, called Struthios; and the other by the +twelfth legion at the distance of about twenty cubits. The tenth legion, +which was considerably apart from these, was occupied on the northern +quarter, and by the reservoir designated Amygdalon, and about thirty +cubits from thence the fifteenth legion, at the high-priest's monument." +V. XI. 4. + +[Sidenote: The assailants make the wall of circumvallation.] + +"Commencing at the camp of the Assyrians, where his own tent was +pitched, he drew the wall to the lower Cænopolis, and thence through the +Kedron to the Mount of Olives. Then bending back towards the south, he +encompassed the mount as far as the rock called Peristereon, and the +adjoining hill, which overhangs the ravine near Siloam. Thence inclining +towards the west, he went down into the valley of the Fountain, beyond +which he ascended by the monument of the high-priest Ananus, and, taking +in the mount where Pompey encamped, turned to the north, proceeding as +far as a hamlet, called 'The house of Erebinths:' passing which, he +enclosed Herod's monument, and on the east once more united it to his +own camp at the point whence it commenced. + +"The wall was in length forty furlongs, wanting one. Attached to it on +the outside were thirteen forts, whose united circumferences measured +ten furlongs." V. XII. 2. + +[Sidenote: Number of the dead.] + +"Mannæus, the son of Lazarus, who at this period took refuge with Titus, +declared that, from the fourteenth of the month of Xanthicus, the day on +which the Romans encamped before the walls, until the new moon of +Panemus, there were carried through that one gate which had been +entrusted to him, a hundred and fifteen thousand eight hundred and +eighty corpses." V. XIII. 7. + +[Sidenote: Number of the dead.] + +"After him many of the higher ranks escaped; and they brought word that +full six hundred thousand of the humbler classes had been thrown out +through the gates. Of the others it was impossible to ascertain the +number." V. XIII. 7. + +[Sidenote: Excavations in Jerusalem.] + +"The Jews fled into the temple; the Romans also making their way in +through the mine which John had excavated under their mounds." VI. I. 7. + +[Sidenote: Titus destroys the Tower Antonia.] + +"Titus now ordered his troops to raze the foundations of the Antonia, +and prepare an easy ascent for his whole force." VI. II. 1. + +[Sidenote: Titus enters the outer court of the Temple.] + +"In the meantime, the remainder of the Roman force, having in seven days +overturned the foundation of the Antonia, had prepared a wide ascent as +far as the temple. The legions now approached the first wall, and +commenced their mounds--one opposite the north-west angle of the inner +temple, a second at the northern chamber, which was between the two +gates, and of the remaining two, one at the western colonnade of the +outer court of the temple, the other without, at the northern." VI. II. +7. + +[Sidenote: Titus takes the Temple.] + +"Titus now withdrew into the Antonia, determined on the following +morning about daybreak to attack with his whole force and invest the +temple. That edifice God had, indeed, long since destined to the flames; +but now in revolving years had arrived the fated day, the tenth of the +month Lous, the very day on which the former temple had been burned by +the king of Babylon." VI. IV. 5. + +[Sidenote: Bridge of Xystus.] + +"Titus took his stand on the western side of the outer court of the +temple; there being a gate in that quarter beyond the Xystus, and a +bridge which connected the upper town with the temple, and which then +intervened between the tyrants and Cæsar." VI. VI. 2. + +[Sidenote: Titus gives up the city to pillage.] + +"Orders were then issued to the troops to plunder and burn the city. On +that day, however, nothing was done; but on the following day they set +fire to the residence of the magistrates, the Acra, the council chamber, +and the place called Ophla, the flames spreading as far as the palace of +queen Helena, which was in the centre of the Acra. The streets also were +consumed." VI. VI. 3. + +[Sidenote: The Romans in the lower town.] + +"On the ensuing day the Romans, having driven the brigands from the +lower town, burned all, as far as Siloam." VI. VII. 2. + +[Sidenote: Titus attacks the upper city.] + +"The works of the four legions were raised on the western side of the +city, opposite to the royal palace, while the auxiliaries and the rest +of the force laboured in the region of the Xystus, the bridge, and the +tower which Simon, during his contest with John, had built as a fortress +for himself." VI. VIII. 1. + +[Sidenote: Destruction of the city.] + +"And when, at a later period, he destroyed the remainder of the city, +and razed the walls, he allowed these towers to stand as a memorial of +the favour of fortune, by whose cooperation he had become master of +those strongholds, which could never have been reduced by force of +arms." VI. IX. 1. + +[Sidenote: Number of Jews killed and taken prisoners.] + +"The whole number of prisoners taken during the entire course of the war +was calculated at ninety-seven thousand; while those who perished in the +siege, from its commencement to its close, amounted to one million one +hundred thousand. Of these the greater part were of Jewish blood, though +not natives of the place. Having assembled from the whole country for +the feast of unleavened bread, they were suddenly hemmed in by the war; +so that their confined situation caused at first a pestilential disease, +and afterwards famine also, still more rapid in its effects." VI. IX. 3. + +[Sidenote: Final destruction of Jerusalem.] + +"Cæsar ordered the whole of the city and the sanctuary to be razed to +the foundations, leaving the three loftiest towers, Phasaëlus, Hippicus, +and Mariamne, and that portion of the wall which enclosed the town on +the west; the latter as an encampment for those who should remain there +in garrison; the towers, to indicate to future times how splendid and +how strong a city had yielded to Roman valour. All the rest of the wall +that encompassed the city was so completely levelled with the ground +that there was no longer anything to lead those who visited the spot to +believe that it had ever been inhabited. So fell Jerusalem, a victim of +revolutionary frenzy: a magnificent city, and celebrated throughout the +world." VII. I. 1. + + * * * * * + +[Sidenote: Population of Jerusalem indicated by Hecatæus of Abdera.] + +"There are many strong places and villages in the country of Judæa, but +one strong city there is, about fifty furlongs in circumference, which +is inhabited by a hundred and twenty thousand men or thereabout." +(Against Apion, I. 22.) + + + + +INDEX. + + + A. + + Abraham, Mount Moriah the scene of his sacrifice, 46, 47. + + Abraham, S., Greek Convent of, 111. + + Absalom, his tomb examined, 181. + + Abyssinians in Jerusalem, their number, 13. + + Aceldama, description of, 206; + its curious legend tested, 207. + + Acra, the hill of, identified, 17, 18, 20; + levelled under the Maccabees, 52. + + Adam, Chapel of, 106, 113. + + Adamnanus, his account of the Mosque of Omar, 58. + + Adoration of the Cross, Chapel of, in the Church of the + Resurrection, 122. + + Ælia Capitolina, Jerusalem so named by Hadrian, 2, 3, 6, 43. + + Agony, Chapel of the, 112; + Grotto of, 177, Note X. 309. + + Agrippa's Walls, 35, 37, 41. + + Altar in Chapel of the Crucifixion, 122. + + Altar of burnt-offerings, its position and dimensions, 54; + its site proved to be on the Sacred Rock, 89; + the cisterns beneath it examined, 97. + See Araunah. + + Americans, their wanton destruction of monuments, 233. + + Amygdalon pool, probably Hezekiah's, 32; + identified from the Bible, 252; + the cisterns filled from it, 259. + + Ananus, Monument of, its site, 40. + + Angel, Chapel of the, in Holy Sepulchre, 116. + + Angels, the Holy, Church of, 156. + + Annas, the High Priest, traditionary site of his house, 156. + + Ann, S., Church of, its present state, 144; + its history and vicissitudes, 145; Notes II. III. 306. + + Ann, S., pretended tomb of, 175. + + Antiochus Epiphanes despoils the second temple, 51. + + Antonia, tower of, 17, 18, 19, 55, 137; + its supposed site, 32; + its site in the N.W. angle of the Haram, 59, 64. + + Antoninus of Piacenza, his account of Justinian's Basilica, 79; Note + XXXIV. 295. + + Aqueduct from Etham, its skilful construction, 249; + subsequent history, 250. + + Arabs, the number of, in Jerusalem, 11; + their position, 273. + + Araunah, threshing-floor of, 24; + its history and description, 47; + cisterns beneath it, 47; + it survives the destruction of Solomon's temple, 50; + Mosque built over it by Omar, 57; + identical with the Sacred Rock, 88; + and the Altar of burnt-offerings, 89; + cisterns beneath it examined, 97; Notes IV. 291, and XVI. 292. + + Arch of the Ecce Homo investigated, 60, 140, Note I. 306. + + Arch, remarkable fragment of one, in S.W. angle of the Haram, 70. + + Arculf, his account of Christ's Tomb, 116; + his description of the Holy places, Note IV. 299. + + Armenians, their numbers and position in Jerusalem, 12; + their Convents, 16, 164; + their prospects, 162; + their charitable institutions, 278. + + Ascension, the Mount of, its site on the Mount of Olives, 191; + grand panorama from its summit, 193; + its traditionary spots examined, 194; + successive Churches built upon it, _ib._; + the present Mosque, 196; + Tomb of S. Pelagia, 197. + + + B. + + Babylas, S., ruins of Church of, 242. + + Baris Castle on Moriah, 52; + restored as Antonia Tower by Herod, 55; + pontifical robes kept in it, Note XI. 292. + + Barrack in the Haram, 20; + the rock near it the site of Antonia Tower, 59, 64. + + Bathsheba, traditionary pool of, 259. + + Bazaar of the Haram gate, 54. + + Bazaars of Jerusalem, 78. + + Benjamin, high gate of, its doubtful site, 26. + + Bethany, its site incontestable, 200; + proofs of this, 201; + Tomb and house of Lazarus there, 202. + + Bethesda, pool of, 15, 20, 59; + its history and present state, 65; + its connection with the temple sacrifices, 92; + its masonry examined, 260. + + Bethphage, site of, 199. + + Bethsura, fortress of, 22. + + Betrayal, the, traditionary site of, 179. + + Bezetha, position of, 18. + + Bible, the Holy, passages from it bearing upon the statements in this + work, 315. + + Bird of Solomon, 86; + legend of, Note XXXVII. 296. + + Bir Eyub, see Joab, well of. + + Birket es-Sultan (Prince's pool), 15; + account of, 96, 209. + + Bishops of Jerusalem, list of, Note II. 297. + + Bordeaux, Pilgrim of, his description of Jerusalem, Note XI. 287. + + Breydenbach, his account of Christ's Tomb, 117. + + Bridge between Moriah and Sion, 70; + supposed site of that mentioned by Josephus, 71, 74. + + Bridge (invisible), of Mohammed, its position and legend, 76. + + Broad wall, its supposed site, 27. + + Buildings, modern, in the neighbourhood of Jerusalem, 5. + + Buildings of Saracenic period in Jerusalem, 153. + + Burial-places of Kings of Judah, Note XVI. 310. + + + C. + + Cadytis of Herodotus, possibly Jerusalem, 2. + + Caiaphas, site of his house on Sion, 220. + + Calvary, Chapel of the, 105. + + Calvary, position of, 103; + its site questionable, 105; + its present appearance, 122. + + Camp of the Assyrians, its site, 40. + + Caverns, the Royal, account of, 226; + method of quarrying them, 227; + danger in exploring them, 228. + + Chamber of the Cradle of Jesus, 77. + + Chosroes II. destroys the Basilica of Constantine, 108. + + Christ, His Tomb described, 116. + + Christian quarter of Jerusalem, 9. + + Chronological summary of the history of Jerusalem, 311. + + Cistern beneath the supposed site of Eudoxia's Church, 169. + + Cisterns for water and grain described, 47; + their necessity for the Temple services, 49; + they survive the destruction of Solomon's temple, 50; + examination of those beneath the Haram, 90; + conclusions drawn from this, 100; + their number in Jerusalem, 261. + + Climate of Jerusalem, 10. + + Coenaculum, traditions connected with it, 216; + the buildings on its site, 217; + its present state, 219; Note XVII. 310. + + Coins found in the Kidron, 170. + + Column, gate of the, 6. + See Damascus gate. + + Columns of proof, 81. + + Commerce of Jerusalem, 265. + + Constantine the Great destroys the Temple of Jupiter on the site of + the Temple, 57; + his Basilica on the true site of the Holy Sepulchre, 105; + description of, by Eusebius, Note III. 297; + destruction of this by Chosroes II. 108. + + Constantine, S., Greek Convent of, 12, 111, 163. + + Copts, their numbers in Jerusalem, 13; + their Convent, 126, 165; + their charitable institutions, 269. + + Corner-gate, its supposed site, 21. + + Cotton Merchants' gate, 74. + + Court of the Gentiles in the Temple, 53. + + Court of the Israelites, or Priests, 54. + + Cradle of Jesus, Chamber containing it, 77. + + Crassus plunders the Second Temple, 52. + + Crosses on Calvary, their probable position, 106. + + Cross, Invention of the, Chapel of, in the Church of the + Resurrection, 121. + + Cross, S., Greek Convent of, its history and traditions, 242; + the Church described, 243, Note III. 306. + + Crucifixion, Chapel of, in the Church of the Resurrection, 122. + + Crusaders, their works at Jerusalem, 43; + they consecrate the Mosque of Omar as a Christian church, 59; + their various positions during the siege of Jerusalem, 241; + the architectural characteristics of their walls, Note V. 286. + + Cubit measure, its relative value, Note II. 282. + + Cyril, S., on the Tomb of Christ, 118. + + Cyrus permits the rebuilding of the Temple, 50. + + + D. + + Damascus Gate, 6, 8, 15, 36; + Cufic inscription on it, 223. + + Daughters of Sion, Convent of, excavations beneath it, 60; + discovery of a spring there, 63; + its course traced, 258; + the Convent described, 162. + + David, the Castle of, 6; + its present state, 159. + + David, the City of, identified from Josephus, 16; + its wall discovered, 23. + + David, King, his purchase of the threshing floor of Araunah, 46; + his hydraulic works at Jerusalem, 245; + the architectural characteristics of his walls, Note V. 285; + traditionary site of his judgement-seat, 86, Note XXXVI. 295. + + David, Millo of, its site discussed, 23-25. + + David, Sepulchres of, their site, 27. + + David, street of, 9, 15. + + David, street of the Castle of, 16. + + David, the Tomb of, the authenticity of its site proved, 210; + the sarcophagus fictitious, 214; + the vault near it the probable Sepulchre of the Jewish Kings, 215. + + Dead Sea, where visible from Jerusalem, 35. + + Dervishes, various orders of, at Jerusalem, 165. + + Dives, Palace of, fictitious site of, 142. + + Divisions of Jerusalem, 8. + + Dome of the Holy Sepulchre, 114. + + Dome of the Rock, its position on Moriah, 45; + date of its erection, 58; + detailed description of, 85; + the cisterns beneath it examined, 97; + see Omar, Mosque of, Rock, the Sacred. + + Dragon Well, its supposed site, 27. + + Drainage system of Jerusalem, its divisions, Note I. 281. + + Dung Gate, the, 7, 15, 27; + false tradition concerning it, 70, Note XXXI. 295. + + + E. + + East Gate, the, its supposed site, 27; + the site of the present Golden Gate, 69. + + Ecce Homo, the arch of, 60, 140, Note I. 306. + + El-Aksa Mosque, originally Justinian's Basilica, 57; + this proved by history, 59; + gateway beneath it, 69; + its architectural history, 78; + description of it, 80; + monolith in its vaults, 82; + this taken from the royal caverns, 227. + + England, Church of, cause of its unpopularity with the Jews, 158; + its mission houses at Jerusalem, 165. + + Environs of Jerusalem, account of, 5; + the numerous ancient remains there, Notes III. IV. 284-5. + + Ephraim, Gate of, its supposed site, 26; + its exact site, 143; + when so called, 144. + + Erebinthi, house of, its site, 41. + + Essenes, Gate of, its site unknown, 31. + + Etham, the source of the water supply of Jerusalem, 14, 50, 73, 91, + 95, 100; + its pools described, 246; + reasons for assigning them to Solomon, 249; + their advantages in supplying Jerusalem, 250; + ruins of the Castle there, 246. + + Eudoxia, Empress, supposed site of her Church, 169; + her Church dedicated to S. Stephen, 224. + + Evil Counsel, Hill of, 4; + its site identified, 21; + its legend and account of the tombs there, 205; + the ruins on its summit, 208. + + Extent of Jerusalem northward examined, 39. + + + F. + + Fish Gate, its supposed site, 26, 27. + + Flagellation, the, Chapel of, 139. + + Food, the supply of, at Jerusalem, 264. + + Fortress of the Jebusites, its probable position, 16, 22. + + Fountain Gate, its supposed site, 27. + + Fountain of the Virgin, 15, 91; + description of it, 184; + its water system examined, 254; + cause of its intermittent flow, 257. + + Franciscan Convent in the Church of the Resurrection, 120, 160, + Notes IV. V. 307; + the Good Friday service there, Note XV. 305. + + Fuller's Monument, its supposed site, 39. + + Fuller's Pool, 241. + + Furnaces, tower of the, supposed site, 27. + + + G. + + Gardens, Gate of, 7; + see Herod, Gate of. + + Gareb, Hill of, 18. + + Gate between two walls, its probable site, 26. + + Gates of Jerusalem at the present time, 6; + before the Captivity, 26; + as rebuilt by Nehemiah, 27; + as described by Josephus, 28; + M. Munk's enumeration of them, Note VII. 286; + Arabic inscriptions above them, Note IV. 281; + regulations for closing them, Note V. _ib._ + + Gennath Gate, its probable site, 32. + + Gethsemane, its site indubitable, 177; + its present state, 178. + + Gihon, Mount, 4; + its site identified, 21. + + Gihon, Upper Pool of, see Mamillah. + + Gihon, Valley of, 4, 17; + examination of it, 208. + + Giles, S., supposed Church of, 153. + + Golden Gate, the, 7, 27; + its architecture, and present condition, 67; + the view from its top, 76; + Mohammedan tradition concerning it, _ib._; + legends connected with it, Notes XXIX. XXX. 294, XXXIII. 295. + + Golgotha, its identity questionable, 107; + its present appearance, 122. + + Golgotha, the Cistern of, 260. + + Good Friday, Franciscan Service upon, Note XV. 305. + + Greeks, their number and position in Jerusalem, 12; + their chapel in the Church of the Resurrection, 120; + their convents in Jerusalem, 163, Note VI. 307; + their nunneries, 164; + their charitable institutions, 278; + the accommodation for their pilgrims, _ib._ + + Greek Catholics, their Convent at Jerusalem, 162. + + Grotto of the Agony, account of, 177, Note X. 309. + + + H. + + Hadrian rebuilds Jerusalem, 3, 6; + its form and size unaltered, 43; + builds a temple to Jupiter on the site of the Temple, 57. + + Hammam-es-Shefa, 15, 91, 257. + + Haram es-Sherîf, 18; + its history, 57; + proved to be Mount Moriah, 59; + north side examined, 63; + Antonia Tower in north-west angle, 64; + the east side, 65; + the foundation of the east wall the work of Solomon, 66; + the south wall examined, 69; + the west side, 70; + remarkable arch in south-west angle, _ib._; + its interior described, 75; + its three elevations examined, 88; + its water system and subterranean works investigated, 90; + conclusion arrived at, 100; + regulations and difficulties of admission to it, Notes I. II. 290. + + Hebron, Gate of, 8; + see Jaffa Gate. + + Helena of Adiabene, her monument, 223. + + Helena, S., Tomb of, its probable site, 37; + Chapel of, 111, 121; + throne of, 112; + Abyssinian Church of, 125; + the so-called cistern of, 126, 260; + her traditionary hospital, 150; + her churches on the Mount of Ascension, 194, 197; + her work at the Tomb of the Virgin, 170, Note IV. 308; + at Aceldama, 207; + her church near the Grotto of Jeremiah, 228; + Justinian's Basilica wrongly ascribed to her, Note XV. 292. + + Herod Antipas, site of his palace, 141. + + Herod, Gate of, 7, 39. + + Herod the Great, his splendid additions to Jerusalem, 3; + his monument, 41; + its suggested site, 242; + he builds the third Temple, 52; + description of his masonry, 67; + a portion of his wall described by De Saulcy, 72. + + Herodian Walls, their architectural characteristics, Note V. 286. + + Herods, the, Jerusalem under their sway, 28. + + Hezekiah, his pool, 14; + the supposed Millo of David, 24, 25, 32; + traces of his wall, 25. + + Hierosolyma, derivation of by Lysimachus, 2. + + Hinnom, Valley of, 4, 17, 22; + its course examined, 204; + origin of the name, Note XV. 309. + + Hippicus tower, its supposed site, 28. + + Holy Fire, Greek Festival of, account of, Note XIV. 304. + + Holy Sabbath, Armenian festival, account of, Note XIV. 305. + + Holy Sepulchre; the question of its site examined, 102; + its traditionary history traced, 103; + Eusebius's account of it, 105; + the monument described, 115; + its interior and the tomb examined, 116; + proofs of its genuineness, 117; + stones said to have closed it, 220; Notes XI. XII. 303-4; + Arculf's description of it, Note IV. 299. + + Horse Gate, its supposed site, 26. + + Hosea, supposed tomb of, 184. + + House of Erebinthi, its site, 41. + + House of the Prince, 126. + + Houses in Jerusalem, their present state, 266. + + Huldah, Gate of, 7, 70, 82. + + Huldah Prophetess, her tomb on Mount Ascension, 197. + + + I. + + Ibrahim, Mosque of, 127. + + Inhabitants of Jerusalem, 268. + + Inspector's Gate, 75; + legend connected with it, 295. + + Invention of the Cross, Chapel of, in the Church of the + Resurrection, 121. + + Iron Gate, 74. + + Isaiah, tradition as to his death and tomb, 187. + + Israel, minaret of, 75. + + + J. + + Jacob's Dream: Mount Moriah possibly the scene of it, 46. + + Jadagat el-Ahel, Grotto of the "store of food," 38; + tradition concerning it, 236. + + Jaffa Gate, 8, 26, 27; + regulations for closing it, Note V. 281. + + Jaffa, port of, its accommodation for travellers, 262. + + James, S., the Great, Church of, its history and description, 157; + tomb of described, 183. + + James, S., the Less, Church of, 158. + + Jebusites, their connection with Jerusalem, 1, 2; + situation of their fortress, 16, 22; + condition of Jerusalem in their time, 22; + the architectural characteristics of their walls, Note V. 285. + + Jehoshaphat, Gate of, 7. + + Jehoshaphat, Tomb of, explored, 180. + + Jehoshaphat, Valley of, explored, 167; + its dreary solemnity, 179; + its monuments examined, 180; + conclusions regarding them, 184; + belief connected with it, 168; Note V. 307. + + Jehovah-jireh, the probable equivalent of Moriah, 17. + + Jeremiah, Grotto of, described, 228; + its tradition examined, 229. + + Jerome, S., on the residence of Melchizedek, 1. + + Jesus, the chamber of His cradle, 77; + His tomb described, 116; + the spot where He was crowned with thorns, 138; + scourged, 139; + shewn by Pilate, 140; + the Station of His first fall in the Via Dolorosa, 141; + place of the meeting with His mother, _ib._; + with Simon the Cyrenian, 142; + His second fall, 143; + meeting with the Daughters of Jerusalem, 144; + His third fall, _ib._; + the tree to which He was bound, 156; + the site of His betrayal, 179; + spot where He wept over the city, 190; + the scene of His Ascension, 191, 193; + prints of His feet on Mount Ascension, 197. + + Jewish Quarter of Jerusalem, 9. + + Jews of Jerusalem, their social habits, 9; + their numbers and sectarian divisions, 10; + their objection to enter the Temple enclosure, 154; + their Synagogues, 155; + cause of their dislike to the Church of England, 158; + their cemetery in the Valley of Jehoshaphat, 180; + their hospice in the Valley of Gihon, 208; + their degraded condition in Jerusalem, 271; + their charitable institutions there, 277. + + Jews' Wailing place, 72, 154. + + Joab, the well of, visited, 188; + detailed account of, 253; + curious legend concerning it, 254. + + Joachim, S., pretended tomb of, 175. + + John, S., of Jerusalem, Hospital of, its history, 129; + state of its remains, 131; + its original position, 133; Notes XVI. XVIII. 306. + + Joseph of Arimathea, his tomb, 119. + + Joseph, S., his pretended tomb, 175. + + Joseph, S., sisters of, their convent, 162. + + Josephus, his account of the city of David verified, 16; + identification of his "New City," 18; + of the Tyropoeon, 19; + of Ophel and Mount Olivet, 21; + Mount Shafat, 22; + his account of the city of the Herods our sole authority, 28; + his exaggeration of the population of Jerusalem, 41; + the passages from his Antiquities of the Jews illustrating this + work, 323; + ditto from the Jewish War, 327. + + Jotham, his wall on Ophel, 25. + + Judah, kings of, their burial places, Note XVI. 310. + + Judgement Gate, legend of, 143. + + Judges, the tombs of, described, 239. + + Julian the Apostate attempts to rebuild the Temple, 57; + the so-called miracle which prevented this, Note XIV. 292. + + Jupiter, Temple to, on the site of the Temple built and destroyed, 57. + + Justinian, his Basilica near the site of the Temple, 57; + converted into a mosque, _ib._; + into a dwelling-house, 59; + its ruins, 70; + its history and description, 78; + Antoninus of Piacenza's account of it, Note XXXIV. 295. + + + K. + + Kerm es-Sheikh (ancient Arab house), curious tradition concerning + it, 230. + + Kidron torrent, its present state, 169; + coins found in its bed, 170; + the pool forming its source, 283. + + Kidron, pool of, 14; account of it, 256. + + Kidron Valley, 4, 5, 18; + exploration of it, 167; + the site of the King's dale, 182, Note II. 308. + + King's garden, the, identified, 27. + + Kings, Jewish, their Tombs on Mount Sion, 215; + their burial places as mentioned in the Bible, Note XVI. 310. + + Kings, Latin, their tombs, 113; + Inscriptions on them, Note XI. 303. + + Knights Hospitaler, account of, 129. + + Knights Templar, their stables in the vaults of the Haram, 78. + + Kubbet es-Sakharah, see Dome of the Rock; Omar, Mosque of. + + + L. + + Land proprietors at Jerusalem, 268. + + Latin Kings, their tombs, 113; + Inscriptions on them, Note XI. 303. + + Latin Patriarchate, the, 152. + + Latins, their chapel in the Church of the Resurrection, 120; + their charitable institutions at Jerusalem, 278. + + Lazarus (the beggar), fictitious site of his house, 142. + + Lazarus, his tomb in Bethany, 202; + ruins of his convent and house there, 203. + + Lepers, their houses and miserable appearance, 221. + + "Lower City" of the Jebusites, its position, 22. + + "Lower pool" of Isaiah, see Birket es-Sultan, Prince's Pool. + + Lysimachus, his derivation of Hierosolyma, 2. + + + M. + + Maccabees, the, recover the second Temple, 52. + + Magdalene, Church of the, its history and remains, 148. + + Mamillah, pool of, 5, 14; + identified as the "Upper pool," 241; + description of it, 251; + identified from the Bible, 252. + + Manasseh, traces of his wall, 26. + + Mariamne Tower, its supposed site, 28. + + Mariti (Abbé), on the position of the three Crosses, 106; + on the arch of the Ecce Homo, 140. + + Mark, S., traditional site of his house, 158. + + Mary, S., of Egypt, Oratory of, 112. + + Mary, S., the Virgin, tradition, &c. of her birth-place, 145, 6, 7; + Chapel of her Nativity, 150; + her tomb, 148; + erected by S. Helena, 170; + enquiries as to the Church built over it, 171; + its present state, 175; + site of her house on Sion, 219; Notes III. to XII. 308-9. + + Mary, S., the Great, ruins of Church of, 125; + its history, 128; + present state of its remains, 130. + + Mary, S., the Less, Church of, its history, 129; + its present state, 130. + + Mary, S., Gate of, 78. + + Mary, Lady, Pool of the bath of, 7, 14, 167. + + Masonry of east wall of Haram, 66; + Solomon's and Herod's compared, 67; Note V. 286. + + Meah, tower of, its site, 27. + + Measures, Hebrew, their relative value, Note II. 282. + + Mekhemeh, or Mohammedan Court of Justice, 73. + + Melchizedek, his residence according to S. Jerome, 1. + + Milisendis, Queen, her Convent of S. Lazarus at Bethany, 203. + + Millo of David, its probable site, 24. + + Millo of Solomon, 25. + + Mislin, M., his account of the so-called tomb of David, 212. + + Mogarabins, the, gate and wall of, 72; + Mosque of, 85. + + Mohammedan quarter of Jerusalem, 9. + + Mohammedans, they capture Jerusalem, 57; + their number and position there, 11; + their charitable institutions, 277. + + Mohammed's invisible bridge, its position and legend, 76. + + Moloch, account of the worship of, Note XV. 309. + + Monks dwelling in the Church of the Resurrection, remarks on, 122; + disputes among them, 124. + + Monolith in the vaults of El-Aksa, 82; + this taken from the royal caverns, 227. + + Montefiore, Sir M., his Hospice for Jews, 208. + + Moriah, Mount, identified, 17, 18; + added to the city by Solomon, 24; + its site unquestionable, 41; + the author's opportunities of exploring it, 46; + its history, _ib._; + its appearance changed by the Temple, 49; + fortified by Simon Maccabeus, 52; + proved to be the present Haram es-Sherîf, 59. + + Mosaic work in the Dome of the Rock, 87; Note XXXVIII. 296. + + Moses, chapel of, 99. + + Mountains round Jerusalem, 4, 21; + within the city, 16. + + Munk, on the Babylonish Captivity, Note VII. 291. + + + N. + + Name of Jerusalem, its origin and meaning, 1. + + Nebuchadnezzar destroys Jerusalem, 2, + and Solomon's Temple, 50. + + Neby Samwîl village, position of, 4; Note II. 281. + + Nehemiah completes the rebuilding of Jerusalem, 3; + aspect of the city in his time, 27; + characteristics of his masonry, Note V. 285; + tradition attached to his well, 188. + + "New City" of Josephus identified, 18. + + Nicanor's Gate in the Temple, 54; + tradition regarding its doors, Note X. 292. + + Nicodemus, his tomb, 119. + + Nicoforus, Archimandrite, his agricultural improvements in the + neighbourhood of Jerusalem, 5, 208, 244. + + Northern extent of Jerusalem examined, 39. + + North Gate of Josephus, its site, 36. + + + O. + + Offence, Mount of, its position indisputable, 21; + its present state, 189; + forms the third summit of Mount Olivet, 191. + + Old Gate, its supposed site, 27. + + Olivet, Mount, 4; + Panoramic view from its summit, 8, 16; + its position indisputable, 21; + its points of interest examined, 190; + its three summits, 191; + histories attached to these, 192. + + Olive-tree, traditionary, to which our Saviour was bound, 156; + those remaining in the garden of Gethsemane, 178; Note XIII. 309. + + Omar, Mosque of, built over the threshing-floor of Araunah, 57; + this proved by history, 58, 59; Notes XVI-XXIV. XXVI. 292-4; + see Dome of the Rock. + + Omar, Mosque of, the octagonal monument so called, 81, 130; + Note VI. 286. + + Omar, remains of his boys' school and hospital, 153. + + Onuphrius, chapel of, on the Hill of Evil Counsel, 206. + + Ophel, the hill of 18; + its site identified, 21; + works of defence on, 25, 26. + + Oratory near the Haram barrack, 75. + + + P. + + Palace of the Council, its supposed site, 30; + of Dives, its fictitious site, 142; + of Herod Antipas, its site, 141. + + Panorama of Jerusalem from Mount Olivet, 8. + + Passages from the Holy Bible bearing on the statements in this + work, 315. + + Patriarch's Pool, 241. + + Pelagia, S., her tomb on Mount Ascension, 197. + + Peristerion, the supposed site of, 40. + + Peter, S., Church of, 150. + + Peter's, S. prison, traditional site of, 158 + + Peter, S. at the Cock-crow, ruins of Church of, 221. + + Phasaëlus Tower, its supposed site, 28. + + Pilate, conduit of, 14. + + Pilgrims, the numbers of, visiting Jerusalem, 10; + their unseemly conduct at the Holy Sepulchre, 123; + the different communities of, at Jerusalem, 274. + + Pilgrim's Pool, 7, 14; + account of it, and its traditions, 229. + + Pisans, castle of the, 159; + Adrichomius' account of, Note VIII. 286. + + Place of the Ashes, 50; + its probable position, 89, 91, 100. + + Pompeius the Great captures the second Temple, 52. + + Pools of Jerusalem, 14, 27. + + "Pool that was made," the, (Birket es-Sultan), 27, 96. + + Population of Jerusalem, 10; + compared with its size, 14; + at the time of Alexander the Great, 41; + exaggerated by Josephus, _ib._ + + Postal system at Jerusalem, 264. + + Potter's field, the site of, 206. + + Prætorium, the, situated in the Antonia Tower, 55, 64; + its position identified, 137. + + Prince's Pool, (Birket es-Sultan), 15, 96, 209. + + Procopius, his account of the Basilica of Justinian, 78, 83. + + Prophets, the tombs of, 198; + their authenticity considered, 199. + + Proselytism at Jerusalem, its failure, 273, 4. + + Protestants, their number in Jerusalem, 13. + + Protestant Missions at Jerusalem, their ill success, 172; + their charitable institutions, 278. + + Provisions, supply of, at Jerusalem, 264. + + Prussian Mission-house at Jerusalem, 165. + + Psephinus tower, its supposed site, 35. + + + Q. + + Quarries used for the Temple and walls, 38; see Royal Caverns. + + Quarries of red breccia, 243. + + + R. + + Ramah identified with Neby Samwîl, Note II. 281. + + Ramleh, its accommodation for travellers, 262. + + Religious communities in Jerusalem, 10, 13. + + Resurrection, Church of the, its history, 108; + its present dangerous condition, 110; + its exterior described, _ib._; + its interior, 113; + the great Dome, 114; + state of the Monks living there, 122; + Pilgrims visiting it, 123; + account of its neighbourhood, 125; Notes III.-XIII. 299-304; + see Holy Sepulchre. + + Retreat of the Apostles, see James, S. tomb of. + + Road of the Capture, 182. + + Robinson, Dr, his opinion of the Tyropoeon disputed, 19. + + Rock near the Haram barrack, site of the Tower Antonia, 59, 64. + + Rock, the Sacred, description of, 87; + proved to be the site of the threshing-floor of Araunah, 88; + and the Altar of burnt-offerings, 89; + legends and traditions connected with it, Notes III. IV. XXXIX. + XL. 291, 296. + + Rogel, its supposed site, 188; + Fountain of, see Joab, Fountain of. + + Roman Catholics, their number and position in Jerusalem, 12. + + Roman inscription on El-Aksa gateway, 69. + + Roman Walls, the characteristics of their masonry, Note V. 286. + + Rossellane the Sultana, her munificence, 59; + description of her hospital, 151; + view from its roof, 152. + + Royal Caverns of Josephus, their supposed site, 38; + description of them, 226. + + Russia, her position in Jerusalem, 13. + + Russians, their conventual buildings in Jerusalem, 13, 240; + their charitable institutions, 279. + + + S. + + Sæwulf, his account of the Holy Places, Note V. 300. + + Saladin's school, fragment of, 74; + his hospice, 127; + his generosity to the Christians, Note XXV. 294. + + Salem and Jerusalem distinct places, 1. + + Sanhedrim, hall of, in the Temple, 54. + + Sanitary condition of Jerusalem, 9, 15, 261. + + Saracenic buildings in Jerusalem, 153; + the characteristics of their masonry, Note V. 286. + + Saviour, S. Church of, on Mount Sion, 220; + Convent of, 160. + + Scala Sancta, the, in Via Dolorosa, 138. + + Scopus, Mount, 4; + Note from Josephus upon, Note III. 281; + see Shafat. + + Sea of Bronze, its dimensions, 49; Note VI. 291. + + Sects, Christian, at Jerusalem, their animosity to each other, 269; + their property, &c. 270. + + Sennacherib, spot of his encampment, 241. + + Sepulchre, the Holy; see Holy Sepulchre. + + Sepulchre, vertical, near the Tombs of the Kings, 236. + + Sepulchres, Mount of the, 4, 205. + + Serai, the, Minaret of, 75. + + Serpents' pool, 241. + + Sewer discovered near the Convent of the daughters of Sion, 62. + + Sewers of Jerusalem, 15, 19. + + Shafat, mountain of, 4; + its site identified, 22. + + Shaveh, the valley of, 1. + + Sheep-gate, its supposed site, 27. + + Shefa, Bath of, 15, 16, 91. + + Sheikh Jerrah, Arab building, 236. + + Siloam, fountain of, its undoubted site, 31. + + Siloam, gardens of, 4, 5. + + Siloam, pool of, 8, 15; + its site identified, 8, 16; + reverence attached to it, 185; + its history, 186; + its present appearance, 187. + + Siloam, village of, described, 189; + ancient Egyptian monument there, 190. + + Simon the Cyrenian, spot of his meeting with Jesus in Via + Dolorosa, 142. + + Simon the Just, Tomb of, 237. + + Simon the Pharisee, traditionary site of his house, 148, 9. + + Sion gate, 7, 8. + + Sion, Mount, 6, 16, 17; + excavations there, 23; + examination of it, 209; + the tomb of David, 210; + Tombs of the Jewish Kings, 215; + the Coenaculum, 216; + the house of the Virgin, 219; + of Caiaphas, 220; + remains of antiquity found there, Note III. 284. + + Slaughter, valley of, 22. + + Society in Jerusalem, its present state, 268. + + Soil of the environs of Jerusalem, 5. + + Solomon, the Conduit of, 14; + his additions to the city of David, 24; + situation of his "Millo" and house, 25; + excavations in his pool, 31; + its present state, 187; + masonry of his wall described, 66; Note V. 285, XXVIII. 294; + traditional site of his throne, 76; + his hydraulic works at Jerusalem, 245, 6. + + Solomon's Temple; see Temple. + + Solyman the Magnificent restores the walls of Jerusalem, 6; + leaving their form unchanged, 44. + + Sources of water supply of Jerusalem, 14. + + Spring discovered near the Daughters of Sion Convent, 63; + great sensation caused by this, Note XXVII. 294. + + Springs in Jerusalem, 257. + + Stables of the Templars in the vaults of the Haram, 78. + + Stairs from the city of David, site of, 27. + + State of Jerusalem and its environs, 267. + + Station of the first fall in Via Dolorosa, 141; + of the second, 143; + of the third, 144. + + Stephen, S. gate of, 7. + + Stephen, S. pretended site of his martyrdom, 168; + the genuine site on the north of the city, 223; + the Empress Eudoxia's Church there, 224. + + Stone, the, of Unction, 114, 122. + + Stones of largest size in Solomon's walls, Note XXVIII. 294. + + Strato's Tower on Moriah, 52; + its site discovered, 62. + + Streets of Jerusalem, 8, 10; + their present state, 266; + the principal ones enumerated, Note VI. 282. + + Struthium pool, its supposed site, 64, 65. + + Syrian Convent, the, 164. + + Summary of the history of Jerusalem, 2. + + ---- chronological, of ditto, 311. + + + T. + + Tacitus, his description of Jerusalem, Note X. 287. + + Temple of Solomon, its site, 17; + stone quarries used for it, 38; + account of its building, 48; + its exact description impossible, _ib._; + its ground plan, 49; + water supply necessary for its services, _ib._; + its destruction by Nebuchadnezzar, 50; + its position fixed by the Sacred Rock, 88; + Rabbinical plan of, 90; + the principal modern accounts of it, Note V. 291. + + Temple, the Second, as rebuilt by Zerubbabel, 51; + its history, _ib._; + taken by Antiochus Epiphanes, _ib._; + recovered by the Maccabees, 52; + its subsequent history, _ib._; + its height according to Josephus, 51; Note VIII. 291. + + Temple, the third, as built by Herod the Great, 52; + its ground plan, _ib._; + dimensions, 54; + the scene of our Saviour's ministry, 55; + its destruction by Titus, 56; + subsequent history of its site, 57; + various writers upon it, Note IX. 292. + + Temple, dates of its burnings, Note XII. 292. + + Terrace roofs in the East, Note XLII. 297. + + Threshing-floors, ancient, description of, 47. + + Throne of Solomon, its traditional site, 76. + + Titus destroys Jerusalem and Herod's Temple, 3, 56; + the city at his time, 28; + his wall of circumvallation, 40; + the site of his head-quarters, 241. + + Tomb of the Lord's Body; see Holy Sepulchre. + + Tombs in the environs of Jerusalem, 5. + + Tombs in the Valley of Jehoshaphat examined, 180; + conclusions regarding them, 184. + + Tombs, Mount of the, 4, 205. + + Tombs of the Judges, account of, 239. + + Tombs of the Jewish Kings on Sion, 215. + + Tombs of the Kings examined; the vestibule, 232; + the sepulchral chambers, 233; + controversies as to their origin and use, 235. + + Tombs of the Latin Kings of Jerusalem, 113; + the inscriptions on them, Note XI. 303. + + Tombs of the Prophets, 198; + their authenticity considered, 199. + + Tophet in the Valley of Hinnom, 204; + probably the Hill of Evil Counsel, 21; + origin of the name, Note XV. 309. + + Tradesmen of Jerusalem, their extortion, 264. + + Traditions of the East, their unvarying character, Note IX. 286. + + Travellers at Jerusalem, advice to, 263, 266. + + Tree, traditionary, to which our Saviour was bound, 156. + + Turks in Jerusalem, their numbers, 11; + their extortion, 273. + + Tyre, William of, his account of the Mosque of Omar, 58; Note + XVII. 292; + of the Church of the Resurrection, Note VI. 301. + + Tyropoeon, the, identified with the central valley, 19. + + + U. + + "Upper Pool;" see Mamillah. + + Uzza, garden of, its supposed site, 184. + + + V. + + Valley Gate, its supposed site, 26, 27, 69. + + Valleys round Jerusalem, 4; + within the city, 16, 19, 20, 62. + + Vault, immense one discovered beneath the Convent of the Daughters of + Sion, 61; + the supposed site of Strato's Tower, 62; + its purpose and architectural history, 77; + converted into stables for the Templars, 78. + + Vaults under the site of Antonia Tower, 64; under El-Aksa, 81; + the mosque Abu Bekr, 84; + the tomb of David, the sepulchre of the Jewish Kings, 215. + + Veronica, S. house of, in the Via Dolorosa, 143. + + Via Dolorosa, 8, 9; + account of its fourteen stations, 135; + summary of the evidence of its identity, 144. + + Virgin, Fountain of the, see Fountain. + + Virgin, Tomb of, see Mary S. + + Virgin's swoon, the, chapel of, in Via Dolorosa, 141. + + Viri Galilæi, the north summit of Mount Olivet, 192. + + + W. + + Walls of Jerusalem, now surrounding it, 6; + remains of that built by the Jebusites, 22; + by David, 23; + by Solomon, 24; + by Jotham and Hezekiah, 25; + by Manasseh, 26; + under Nehemiah, 27; + the Herods and Titus, 28; + the Agrippas, 35, 37; + the course of the first wall explored, 28; + of the second, 31; + of the third, 34; + the wall of Titus, 40; + of Solyman the Magnificent, 44; + their different architectural characteristics, Note V. 285; + the largest stones remaining in that of Solomon, Note XXVIII. 294. + + Wandering Jew, the imaginary house of, in the Via Dolorosa, 143. + + Water Gate, its supposed site, 27. + + Water supply of Jerusalem, 14; + a good supply required for the Temple services, 49. + + Waters of the neighbourhood of Jerusalem, 245; + inside the city, 257. + + Wezn, or invisible balance, Mohammedan legend of, Note XLI. 296. + + Willibrand of Oldenburg, his account of Christ's Tomb, 117. + + Window of Judgment, its position and legend, 76. + + + X. + + Xystus, the, its supposed site, 30. + + + Z. + + Zacharias, Tomb of, 183. + + Zerubbabel rebuilds the Temple, 51. + + + + Cambridge: + PRINTED BY C. J. CLAY, M.A. + AT THE UNIVERSITY PRESS. + + + + + * * * * * + + + + +Transcriber's note: + +Obvious typesetting errors have been corrected. Questionable or archaic +spelling has been left as printed in the original publication. +Variations in spelling have been left as printed, unless otherwise noted +in the following. + +Corrections to printing errors supplied in the "CORRIGENDA ET ADDENDA", +immediately following the Table of Contents, have been applied in this +transcription. + +Inconsistencies in abbreviations frequently used have been regularized. +The formation of references to works frequently cited have +been regularized. E.g., for all instances like "Jewish War, V. 4, § 1." +commas have been inserted, if missing, after War and before the "§" +symbol. + +All instances of "Sherif" have been normalized to "Sherîf". + +Alternate spellings of Phasælus/Phasaelus/Phasaëlus Tower have been +regularized to Phasaëlus. + +Alternate spellings of Neby Samwil/Samwîl have been regularized to +Samwîl. + +Alternate spellings of Arimathæa/Arimathea have been regularized to +Arimathea. + +Varying formats of the abbreviation "A.D." have been regularized in this +transcription to appear in upper case letters. + +Page 26: Transcribed "fellahin" as "fellahîn". As originally printed: +"The answers given to me by the _fellahin_...." + +Page 38: Transcribed "them" as "they". As originally printed: "with the +old level of the north gate, and found them correspond". + +Page 48: Supplied the word "in" (shown in brackets here) to the +following phrase: "those found [in] 1 Kings vi. 7 and 2 Chron. iii. +and iv. are very incomplete, and often hard to reconcile". + +Page 49: Supplied the word "in" (shown in brackets here) to the +following phrase: "The inner is mentioned [in] 1 Kings vi. 36". + +Page 58: Supplied a quotation mark missing in the original publication, +as follows, immediately preceding "but": 'He says (speaking of the +mosque) "but on that celebrated spot...'. + +Page 58: Supplied a quotation mark missing in the original publication +at the close of the following: "May God render illustrious the great +king, son of Meruan, who enlarged this majestic temple, and grant him +mercy." + +Page 128: Transcribed "Harun er-Rashid" as "Harûn er-Rashîd". As +originally printed: "The amicable relations between Harun er-Rashid...." + +Page 138: Two footnote markers on this page in the original publication, +both numbered 1, reference one footnote. The markers have been numbered +470 and 471 and footnote 471 has been added as "Ibid." + +Page 140 (footnote 477): Corrected "Jérus" to "Jésus." + +Page 210: Footnote 4 on this page references non-existant Note "XXII." +Number was corrected to "Note XIV." + +Page 212: Supplied the word "it" (shown in brackets here) to the +following phrase: "some however less anxiously cautious, say that [it] +is on the site...". + +Page 229: Footnote 7 on this page was marked in the text, but the note +at the bottom of the page, referring internally to "Page 14", had no +note number associated with it. The footnote has been numbered and +appears in this transcription as footnote 826. + +Page 270 (footnote 898): Transcribed "pamplet" as "pamphlet". As +originally printed: "the following account published in a pamplet...." + +In the table showing Spanish Reals sent to the Holy Land, the individual +contributions by country in this transcription match the figures in +the original publication; however, the total Reals stated in the +original publication (239,737,060) does not match the sum of the +countries' contributions (239,927,060). + +Page 275: In the table showing pilgrims visits to Jerusalem and lengths +of stays, the annual totals in this transcription match the figures in +the original publication; however, the total of days stated in the +original publication (229,346) does not match the sum of the annual +totals (229,266). + +Pages 283-4: Endnotes marked in the original publication with numerical +references (1 to 7) have been transcribed as notes A to G and appear as +endnotes to Note II of Chapter II. + +Page 295: A reference to the Itinerary of Antoninus of Piacenza printed +as "Anton. Placent. Itin. Sect. 23" in the original publication has been +left as printed, a likely typesetting error in which an L was +substituted for the I in Piacen(t)za. + +Pages 304: Endnotes to Note XIV of Chapter IV., marked in the original +publication as (a) and (b), have been transcribed as footnotes that appear +at the end of the notes for Chapter IV. + +Page 311: Transcribed "Adonizedec" (king of Jerusalem) as "Adonizedek". +As originally printed: "1451 Adonizedec king of Jerusalem". + +Page 314: Alternate spellings of Al-Mostander-Billah/Al-Mostanser-Billah +have been regularized to Al-Mostanser-Billah. + +Page 331: Possibly incomplete phrase in sidenote has been left as +printed in the original publication: "The Jews see the review of the +troops Titus." + +*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 41569 *** |