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+*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 41516 ***
+
+Transcriber's Note:
+
+  Inconsistent hyphenation and spelling in the original document have
+  been preserved. Obvious typographical errors have been corrected.
+
+  Italic text is denoted by _underscores_.
+
+  On page 31, either 1660 or 1669 is a possible typo.
+
+  On page 131, "The 4th Edward IV." is possibly a typo.
+
+  On page 154, "Dan Rowlandson" should possibly be "Dan Rawlinson".
+
+  On page 262, "Belvidere" is a possible typo for "Belvedere".
+
+
+
+
+     CLUB LIFE OF LONDON
+
+     WITH
+
+     ANECDOTES OF THE CLUBS, COFFEE-HOUSES
+     AND TAVERNS OF THE METROPOLIS
+     DURING THE 17TH, 18TH, AND 19TH CENTURIES.
+
+     BY JOHN TIMBS, F.S.A.
+
+     [Illustration]
+
+     IN TWO VOLUMES.--VOL. II.
+
+     LONDON:
+     RICHARD BENTLEY, NEW BURLINGTON STREET
+
+     Publisher in Ordinary to Her Majesty.
+     1866.
+
+
+
+
+     PRINTED BY
+     JOHN EDWARD TAYLOR, LITTLE QUEEN STREET,
+     LINCOLN'S INN FIELDS.
+
+
+
+
+CONTENTS.
+
+
+     Coffee-houses.
+
+                                                                  Page
+     EARLY COFFEE-HOUSES                                             1
+
+     GARRAWAY'S COFFEE-HOUSE                                         6
+
+     JONATHAN'S COFFEE-HOUSE                                        11
+
+     RAINBOW COFFEE-HOUSE                                           14
+
+     NANDO'S COFFEE-HOUSE                                           18
+
+     DICK'S COFFEE-HOUSE                                            20
+
+     THE "LLOYD'S" OF THE TIME OF CHARLES II                        21
+
+     LLOYD'S COFFEE-HOUSE                                           24
+
+     THE JERUSALEM COFFEE-HOUSE                                     30
+
+     BAKER'S COFFEE-HOUSE                                           30
+
+     COFFEE-HOUSES OF THE EIGHTEENTH CENTURY                        31
+
+     COFFEE-HOUSE SHARPERS IN 1776                                  42
+
+     DON SALTERO'S COFFEE-HOUSE                                     44
+
+     SALOOP-HOUSES                                                  48
+
+     THE SMYRNA COFFEE-HOUSE                                        49
+
+     ST. JAMES'S COFFEE-HOUSE                                       50
+
+     THE BRITISH COFFEE-HOUSE                                       55
+
+     WILL'S COFFEE-HOUSE                                            56
+
+     BUTTON'S COFFEE-HOUSE                                          64
+
+     DEAN SWIFT AT BUTTON'S                                         73
+
+     TOM'S COFFEE-HOUSE                                             75
+
+     THE BEDFORD COFFEE-HOUSE, IN COVENT GARDEN                     76
+
+     MACKLIN'S COFFEE-HOUSE ORATORY                                 82
+
+     TOM KING'S COFFEE-HOUSE                                        84
+
+     PIAZZA COFFEE-HOUSE                                            87
+
+     THE CHAPTER COFFEE-HOUSE                                       88
+
+     CHILD'S COFFEE-HOUSE                                           90
+
+     LONDON COFFEE-HOUSE                                            92
+
+     TURK'S HEAD COFFEE-HOUSE, IN CHANGE ALLEY                      93
+
+     SQUIRE'S COFFEE-HOUSE                                          96
+
+     SLAUGHTER'S COFFEE-HOUSE                                       99
+
+     WILL'S AND SERLE'S COFFEE-HOUSES                              104
+
+     THE GRECIAN COFFEE-HOUSE                                      105
+
+     GEORGE'S COFFEE-HOUSE                                         107
+
+     THE PERCY COFFEE-HOUSE                                        108
+
+     PEELE'S COFFEE-HOUSE                                          109
+
+
+     Taverns.
+
+     THE TAVERNS OF OLD LONDON                                     110
+
+     THE BEAR AT THE BRIDGE-FOOT                                   122
+
+     MERMAID TAVERNS                                               124
+
+     THE BOAR'S HEAD TAVERN                                        124
+
+     THREE CRANES IN THE VINTRY                                    128
+
+     LONDON STONE TAVERN                                           128
+
+     THE ROBIN HOOD                                                129
+
+     PONTACK'S, ABCHURCH LANE                                      130
+
+     POPE'S HEAD TAVERN                                            131
+
+     THE OLD SWAN, THAMES-STREET                                   132
+
+     COCK TAVERN, THREADNEEDLE-STREET                              133
+
+     CROWN TAVERN, THREADNEEDLE-STREET                             134
+
+     THE KING'S HEAD TAVERN, IN THE POULTRY                        135
+
+     THE MITRE, IN WOOD-STREET                                     141
+
+     THE SALUTATION AND CAT TAVERN                                 142
+
+     "SALUTATION" TAVERNS                                          144
+
+     QUEEN'S ARMS, ST. PAUL'S CHURCHYARD                           145
+
+     DOLLY'S, PATERNOSTER ROW                                      146
+
+     ALDERSGATE TAVERNS                                            147
+
+     "THE MOURNING CROWN"                                          150
+
+     JERUSALEM TAVERNS, CLERKENWELL                                150
+
+     WHITE HART TAVERN, BISHOPSGATE WITHOUT                        152
+
+     THE MITRE, IN FENCHURCH-STREET                                154
+
+     THE KING'S HEAD, FENCHURCH-STREET                             155
+
+     THE ELEPHANT, FENCHURCH-STREET                                156
+
+     THE AFRICAN, ST. MICHAEL'S ALLEY                              157
+
+     THE GRAVE MAURICE TAVERN                                      159
+
+     MATHEMATICAL SOCIETY, SPITALFIELDS                            160
+
+     GLOBE TAVERN, FLEET-STREET                                    161
+
+     THE DEVIL TAVERN                                              162
+
+     THE YOUNG DEVIL TAVERN                                        169
+
+     COCK TAVERN, FLEET-STREET                                     170
+
+     THE HERCULES' PILLARS TAVERNS                                 171
+
+     HOLE-IN-THE-WALL TAVERNS                                      173
+
+     THE MITRE, IN FLEET-STREET                                    175
+
+     SHIP TAVERN, TEMPLE BAR                                       177
+
+     THE PALSGRAVE HEAD, TEMPLE BAR                                178
+
+     HEYCOCK'S, TEMPLE BAR                                         178
+
+     THE CROWN AND ANCHOR, STRAND                                  179
+
+     THE CANARY-HOUSE, IN THE STRAND                               180
+
+     THE FOUNTAIN TAVERN                                           181
+
+     TAVERN LIFE OF SIR RICHARD STEELE                             182
+
+     CLARE MARKET TAVERNS                                          184
+
+     THE CRAVEN HEAD, DRURY LANE                                   185
+
+     THE COCK TAVERN, IN BOW-STREET                                187
+
+     THE QUEEN'S HEAD, BOW-STREET                                  188
+
+     THE SHAKSPEARE TAVERN                                         189
+
+     SHUTER, AND HIS TAVERN PLACES                                 191
+
+     THE ROSE TAVERN, COVENT GARDEN                                192
+
+     EVANS'S, COVENT GARDEN                                        194
+
+     THE FLEECE, COVENT GARDEN                                     196
+
+     THE BEDFORD HEAD, COVENT GARDEN                               197
+
+     THE SALUTATION, TAVISTOCK STREET                              197
+
+     THE CONSTITUTION TAVERN, COVENT GARDEN                        199
+
+     THE CIDER CELLAR                                              199
+
+     OFFLEY'S, HENRIETTA-STREET                                    201
+
+     THE RUMMER TAVERN                                             202
+
+     SPRING GARDEN TAVERNS                                         204
+
+     "HEAVEN" AND "HELL" TAVERNS, WESTMINSTER                      206
+
+     "BELLAMY'S KITCHEN"                                           208
+
+     A COFFEE-HOUSE CANARY BIRD                                    210
+
+     STAR AND GARTER, PALL MALL                                    211
+
+     THATCHED HOUSE TAVERN                                         217
+
+     "THE RUNNING FOOTMAN," MAY FAIR                               219
+
+     PICCADILLY INNS AND TAVERNS                                   221
+
+     ISLINGTON TAVERNS                                             224
+
+     COPENHAGEN HOUSE                                              229
+
+     TOPHAM, THE STRONG MAN, AND HIS TAVERNS                       232
+
+     THE CASTLE TAVERN, HOLBORN                                    234
+
+     MARYLEBONE AND PADDINGTON TAVERNS                             236
+
+     KENSINGTON AND BROMPTON TAVERNS                               242
+
+     KNIGHTSBRIDGE TAVERNS                                         249
+
+     RANELAGH GARDENS                                              255
+
+     CREMORNE TAVERN AND GARDENS                                   257
+
+     THE MULBERRY GARDEN                                           258
+
+     PIMLICO TAVERNS                                               259
+
+     LAMBETH,--VAUXHALL TAVERNS AND GARDENS, ETC.                  260
+
+     FREEMASONS' LODGES                                            263
+
+     WHITEBAIT TAVERNS                                             267
+
+     THE LONDON TAVERN                                             274
+
+     THE CLARENDON HOTEL                                           279
+
+     FREEMASONS' TAVERN, GREAT QUEEN-STREET                        280
+
+     THE ALBION, ALDERSGATE-STREET                                 283
+
+     ST. JAMES'S HALL                                              284
+
+     THEATRICAL TAVERNS                                            285
+
+
+     APPENDIX.
+
+     BEEFSTEAK SOCIETY                                             286
+
+     WHITE'S CLUB                                                   287
+
+     THE ROYAL ACADEMY CLUB                                        289
+
+     DESTRUCTION OF TAVERNS BY FIRE                                290
+
+     THE TZAR OF MUSCOVY'S HEAD, TOWER-STREET                      291
+
+     ROSE TAVERN, TOWER-STREET                                     292
+
+     THE NAG'S HEAD TAVERN, CHEAPSIDE                              293
+
+     THE HUMMUMS, COVENT GARDEN                                    295
+
+     ORIGIN OF TAVERN SIGNS                                        296
+
+
+     INDEX TO THE FIRST VOLUME                                     305
+
+     INDEX TO THE SECOND VOLUME                                    313
+
+  [Illustration: "The Lion's Head," at Button's Coffee-House.]
+
+
+
+
+CLUB LIFE OF LONDON.
+
+
+
+
+Coffee-houses.
+
+
+EARLY COFFEE-HOUSES.
+
+Coffee is thus mentioned by Bacon, in his _Sylva Sylvarum_:--"They
+have in _Turkey_ a _drink_ called _Coffee_, made of a _Berry_ of the
+same name, as Black as _Soot_, and of a _Strong Sent_, but not
+_Aromatical_; which they take, beaten into Powder, in _Water_, as Hot
+as they can _Drink_ it; and they take it, and sit at it in their
+_Coffee Houses_, which are like our _Taverns_. The _Drink_ comforteth
+the _Brain_, and _Heart_, and helpeth _Digestion_."
+
+And in Burton's _Anatomy of Melancholy_, part i., sec. 2, occurs,
+"Turks in their coffee-houses, which much resemble our taverns." The
+date is 1621, several years before coffee-houses were introduced into
+England.
+
+In 1650, Wood tells us, was opened at Oxford, the first coffee-house,
+by Jacobs, a Jew, "at the Angel, in the parish of St. Peter in the
+East; and there it was, by some who delighted in novelty, drank."
+
+There was once an odd notion prevalent that coffee was unwholesome,
+and would bring its drinkers to an untimely end. Yet, Voltaire,
+Fontenelle, and Fourcroy, who were great coffee-drinkers, lived to a
+good old age. Laugh at Madame de Sévigné, who foretold that coffee and
+Racine would be forgotten together!
+
+A manuscript note, written by Oldys, the celebrated antiquary, states
+that "The use of coffee in England was first known in 1657. [It will
+be seen, as above, that Oldys is incorrect.] Mr. Edwards, a Turkey
+merchant, brought from Smyrna to London one Pasqua Rosee, a Ragusan
+youth, who prepared this drink for him every morning. But the novelty
+thereof drawing too much company to him, he allowed his said servant,
+with another of his son-in-law, to sell it publicly, and they set up
+the first coffee-house in London, in St. Michael's alley, in Cornhill.
+The sign was Pasqua Rosee's own head." Oldys is slightly in error
+here; Rosee commenced his coffee-house in 1652, and one Jacobs, a Jew,
+as we have just seen, had established a similar undertaking at Oxford,
+two years earlier. One of Rosee's original shop or hand-bills, the
+only mode of advertising in those days, is as follows:--
+
+    "THE VERTUE OF THE COFFEE DRINK,
+
+     "_First made and publickly sold in England by Pasqua Rosee._
+
+     "The grain or berry called coffee, groweth upon little trees
+     only in the deserts of Arabia. It is brought from thence,
+     and drunk generally throughout all the Grand Seignour's
+     dominions. It is a simple, innocent thing, composed into a
+     drink, by being dried in an oven, and ground to powder, and
+     boiled up with spring water, and about half a pint of it to
+     be drunk fasting an hour before, and not eating an hour
+     after, and to be taken as hot as possibly can be endured;
+     the which will never fetch the skin off the mouth, or raise
+     any blisters by reason of that heat.
+
+     "The Turks' drink at meals and other times is usually water,
+     and their diet consists much of fruit; the crudities whereof
+     are very much corrected by this drink.
+
+     "The quality of this drink is cold and dry; and though it be
+     a drier, yet it neither heats nor inflames more than hot
+     posset. It so incloseth the orifice of the stomach, and
+     fortifies the heat within, that it is very good to help
+     digestion; and therefore of great use to be taken about
+     three or four o'clock afternoon, as well as in the morning.
+     It much quickens the spirits, and makes the heart lightsome;
+     it is good against sore eyes, and the better if you hold
+     your head over it and take in the steam that way. It
+     suppresseth fumes exceedingly, and therefore is good against
+     the head-ache, and will very much stop any defluxion of
+     rheums, that distil from the head upon the stomach, and so
+     prevent and help consumptions and the cough of the lungs.
+
+     "It is excellent to prevent and cure the dropsy, gout,[1]
+     and scurvy. It is known by experience to be better than any
+     other drying drink for people in years, or children that
+     have any running humours upon them, as the king's evil, &c.
+     It is a most excellent remedy against the spleen,
+     hypochondriac winds, and the like. It will prevent
+     drowsiness, and make one fit for business, if one have
+     occasion to watch, and therefore you are not to drink of it
+     after supper, unless you intend to be watchful, for it will
+     hinder sleep for three or four hours.
+
+     "It is observed that in Turkey, where this is generally
+     drunk, that they are not troubled with the stone, gout,
+     dropsy, or scurvy, and that their skins are exceeding clear
+     and white. It is neither laxative nor restringent.
+
+     "_Made and sold in St. Michael's-alley, in Cornhill, by
+     Pasqua Rosee, at the sign of his own head._"
+
+The new beverage had its opponents, as well as its advocates. The
+following extracts from _An invective against Coffee_, published about
+the same period, informs us that Rosee's partner, the servant of Mr.
+Edwards's son-in-law, was a coachman; while it controverts the
+statement that hot coffee will not scald the mouth, and ridicules the
+broken English of the Ragusan:--
+
+       "A BROADSIDE AGAINST COFFEE.
+
+     "A coachman was the first (here) coffee made,
+     And ever since the rest drive on the trade:
+     '_Me no good Engalash!_' and sure enough,
+     He played the quack to salve his Stygian stuff;
+     '_Ver boon for de stomach, de cough, de phthisick._'
+     And I believe him, for it looks like physic.
+     Coffee a crust is charred into a coal,
+     The smell and taste of the mock china bowl;
+     Where huff and puff, they labour out their lungs,
+     Lest, Dives-like, they should bewail their tongues.
+     And yet they tell ye that it will not burn,
+     Though on the jury blisters you return;
+     Whose furious heat does make the water rise,
+     And still through the alembics of your eyes.
+     Dread and desire, you fall to 't snap by snap,
+     As hungry dogs do scalding porridge lap.
+     But to cure drunkards it has got great fame;
+     Posset or porridge, will 't not do the same?
+     Confusion hurries all into one scene,
+     Like Noah's ark, the clean and the unclean.
+     And now, alas! the drench has credit got,
+     And he's no gentleman that drinks it not;
+     That such a dwarf should rise to such a stature!
+     But custom is but a remove from nature.
+     A little dish and a large coffee-house,
+     What is it but a mountain and a mouse?"
+
+Notwithstanding this opposition, coffee soon became a favourite drink,
+and the shops, where it was sold, places of general resort.
+
+There appears to have been a great anxiety that the Coffee-house,
+while open to all ranks, should be conducted under such restraints as
+might prevent the better class of customers from being annoyed.
+Accordingly, the following regulations, printed on large sheets of
+paper, were hung up in conspicuous positions on the walls:--
+
+     "_Enter, Sirs, freely, but first, if you please,
+     Peruse our civil orders, which are these._
+
+     First, gentry, tradesmen, all are welcome hither,
+     And may without affront sit down together:
+     Pre-eminence of place none here should mind,
+     But take the next fit seat that he can find:
+     Nor need any, if finer persons come,
+     Rise up for to assign to them his room;
+     To limit men's expense, we think not fair,
+     But let him forfeit twelve-pence that shall swear:
+     He that shall any quarrel here begin,
+     Shall give each man a dish t' atone the sin;
+     And so shall he, whose compliments extend
+     So far to drink in coffee to his friend;
+     Let noise of loud disputes be quite forborne,
+     Nor maudlin lovers here in corners mourn,
+     But all be brisk and talk, but not too much;
+     On sacred things, let none presume to touch,
+     Nor profane Scripture, nor saucily wrong
+     Affairs of state with an irreverent tongue:
+     Let mirth be innocent, and each man see
+     That all his jests without reflection be;
+     To keep the house more quiet and from blame,
+     We banish hence cards, dice, and every game;
+     Nor can allow of wagers, that exceed
+     Five shillings, which ofttimes do troubles breed;
+     Let all that's lost or forfeited be spent
+     In such good liquor as the house doth vent.
+     And customers endeavour, to their powers,
+     For to observe still, seasonable hours.
+     Lastly, let each man what he calls for pay,
+     And so you're welcome to come every day."
+
+In a print of the period, five persons are shown in a coffee-house,
+one smoking, evidently, from their dresses, of different ranks of
+life; they are seated at a table, on which are small basins without
+saucers, and tobacco-pipes, while a waiter is serving the coffee.
+
+FOOTNOTE:
+
+[1] In the French colonies, where Coffee is more used than in the
+English, Gout is scarcely known.
+
+
+GARRAWAY'S COFFEE-HOUSE.
+
+This noted Coffee-house, situated in Change-alley, Cornhill, has a
+threefold celebrity: tea was first sold in England here; it was a
+place of great resort in the time of the South Sea Bubble; and has
+since been a place of great mercantile transactions. The original
+proprietor was Thomas Garway, tobacconist and coffee-man, the first
+who retailed tea, recommending for the cure of all disorders; the
+following is the substance of his shop bill:--"Tea in England hath
+been sold in the leaf for six pounds, and sometimes for ten pounds the
+pound weight, and in respect of its former scarceness and dearness,
+it hath been only used as a regalia in high treatments and
+entertainments, and presents made thereof to princes and grandees till
+the year 1651." The said Thomas Garway did purchase a quantity
+thereof, and first publicly sold the said tea in leaf and drink, made
+according to the directions of the most knowing merchants and
+travellers into those Eastern countries; and upon knowledge and
+experience of the said Garway's continued care and industry in
+obtaining the best tea, and making drink thereof, very many noblemen,
+physicians, merchants, and gentlemen of quality, have ever since sent
+to him for the said leaf, and daily resort to his house in
+Exchange-alley, aforesaid, to drink the drink thereof; and to the end
+that all persons of eminence and quality, gentlemen, and others, who
+have occasion for tea in leaf, may be supplied, these are to give
+notice that the said Thomas Garway hath tea to sell from "sixteen to
+fifty shillings per pound." (See the document entire in Ellis's
+_Letters_, series iv. 58.)
+
+Ogilby, the compiler of the _Britannia_, had his standing lottery of
+books at Mr. Garway's Coffee-house from April 7, 1673, till wholly
+drawn off. And, in the _Journey through England_, 1722, Garraway's,
+Robins's, and Joe's, are described as the three celebrated
+Coffee-houses: in the first, the People of Quality, who have business
+in the City, and the most considerable and wealthy citizens, frequent.
+In the second the Foreign Banquiers, and often even Foreign Ministers.
+And in the third, the Buyers and Sellers of Stock.
+
+Wines were sold at Garraway's in 1673, "by the candle," that is, by
+auction, while an inch of candle burns. In _The Tatler_, No. 147, we
+read: "Upon my coming home last night, I found a very handsome present
+of French wine left for me, as a taste of 216 hogsheads, which are to
+be put to sale at 20_l._ a hogshead, at Garraway's Coffee-house, in
+Exchange-alley," &c. The sale by candle is not, however, by
+candle-light, but during the day. At the commencement of the sale,
+when the auctioneer has read a description of the property, and the
+conditions on which it is to be disposed of, a piece of candle,
+usually an inch long, is lighted, and he who is the last bidder at the
+time the light goes out is declared the purchaser.
+
+Swift, in his "Ballad on the South Sea Scheme," 1721, did not forget
+Garraway's:--
+
+     "There is a gulf, where thousands fell,
+       Here all the bold adventurers came,
+     A narrow sound, though deep as hell,
+       'Change alley is the dreadful name.
+
+     "Subscribers here by thousands float,
+       And jostle one another down,
+     Each paddling in his leaky boat,
+       And here they fish for gold and drown.
+
+     "Now buried in the depths below,
+       Now mounted up to heaven again,
+     They reel and stagger to and fro,
+       At their wits' end, like drunken men.
+
+     "Meantime secure on Garway cliffs,
+       A savage race, by shipwrecks fed,
+     Lie waiting for the founder'd skiffs,
+       And strip the bodies of the dead."
+
+Dr. Radcliffe, who was a rash speculator in the South Sea Scheme, was
+usually planted at a table at Garraway's about Exchange time, to watch
+the turn of the market; and here he was seated when the footman of his
+powerful rival, Dr. Edward Hannes, came into Garraway's and inquired,
+by way of a puff, if Dr. H. was there. Dr. Radcliffe, who was
+surrounded with several apothecaries and chirurgeons that flocked
+about him, cried out, "Dr. Hannes was not there," and desired to know
+"who wanted him?" the fellow's reply was, "such a lord and such a
+lord;" but he was taken up with the dry rebuke, "No, no, friend, you
+are mistaken; the Doctor wants those lords." One of Radcliffe's
+ventures was five thousand guineas upon one South Sea project. When he
+was told at Garraway's that 'twas all lost, "Why," said he, "'tis but
+going up five thousand pair of stairs more." "This answer," says Tom
+Brown, "deserved a statue."
+
+As a Coffee-house, and one of the oldest class, which has withstood,
+by the well-acquired fame of its proprietors, the ravages of time, and
+the changes that economy and new generations produce, none can be
+compared to Garraway's. This name must be familiar with most people in
+and out of the City; and, notwithstanding our disposition to make
+allowance for the want of knowledge some of our neighbours of the
+West-end profess in relation to men and things east of Temple Bar, it
+must be supposed that the noble personage who said, when asked by a
+merchant to pay him a visit in one of these places, "that he willingly
+would, if his friend could tell him where to change horses," had
+forgotten this establishment, which fostered so great a quantity of
+dishonoured paper, when in other City coffee-houses it had gone
+begging at 1_s._ and 2_s._ in the pound.[2]
+
+Garraway's has long been famous as a sandwich and drinking room, for
+sherry, pale ale, and punch. Tea and coffee are still served. It is
+said that the sandwich-maker is occupied two hours in cutting and
+arranging the sandwiches before the day's consumption commences. The
+sale-room is an old fashioned first-floor apartment, with a small
+rostrum for the seller, and a few commonly grained settles for the
+buyers. Here sales of drugs, mahogany, and timber are periodically
+held. Twenty or thirty property and other sales sometimes take place
+in a day. The walls and windows of the lower room are covered with
+sale placards, which are unsentimental evidences of the mutability of
+human affairs.
+
+"In 1840 and 1841, when the tea speculation was at its height, and
+prices were fluctuating 6_d._ and 8_d._ per pound, on the arrival of
+every mail, Garraway's was frequented every night by a host of the
+smaller fry of dealers, when there was more excitement than ever
+occurred on 'Change when the most important intelligence arrived.
+Champagne and anchovy toasts were the order of the night; and every
+one came, ate and drank, and went, as he pleased without the least
+question concerning the score, yet the bills were discharged; and this
+plan continued for several months."--_The City._
+
+Here, likewise, we find this redeeming picture:--"The members of the
+little _coterie_, who take the dark corner under the clock, have for
+years visited this house; they number two or three old, steady
+merchants, a solicitor, and a gentleman who almost devotes the whole
+of his time and talents to philanthropic objects,--for instance, the
+getting up of a Ball for Shipwrecked Mariners and their families; or
+the organization of a Dinner for the benefit of the Distressed
+Needlewomen of the Metropolis; they are a very quiet party, and enjoy
+the privilege of their _séance_, uninterrupted by visitors."
+
+We may here mention a tavern of the South Sea time, where the "Globe
+_permits_" fraud was very successful. These were nothing more than
+square pieces of card on which was a wax seal of the sign of the Globe
+Tavern, situated in the neighbourhood of Change-alley, with the
+inscription, "Sail-cloth Permits." The possessors enjoyed no other
+advantage from them than permission to subscribe at some future time
+to a new sail-cloth manufactory projected by one who was known to be a
+man of fortune, but who was afterwards involved in the peculation and
+punishment of the South Sea Directors. These Permits sold for as much
+as sixty guineas in the Alley.
+
+FOOTNOTE:
+
+[2] _The City_, 2nd edition.
+
+
+JONATHAN'S COFFEE-HOUSE.
+
+This is another Change-alley Coffee-house, which is described in the
+_Tatler_, No. 38, as "the general mart of stock-jobbers;" and the
+_Spectator_, No. 1, tells us that he "sometimes passes for a Jew in
+the assembly of stock-jobbers at Jonathan's." This was the rendezvous,
+where gambling of all sorts was carried on; notwithstanding a formal
+prohibition against the assemblage of the jobbers, issued by the City
+of London, which prohibition continued unrepealed until 1825.
+
+In the _Anatomy of Exchange Alley_, 1719, we read:--"The centre of the
+jobbing is in the kingdom of Exchange-alley and its adjacencies. The
+limits are easily surrounded in about a minute and a half: viz.
+stepping out of Jonathan's into the Alley, you turn your face full
+south; moving on a few paces, and then turning due east, you advance
+to Garraway's; from thence going out at the other door, you go on
+still east into Birchin-lane; and then halting a little at the
+Sword-blade Bank, to do much mischief in fewest words, you immediately
+face to the north, enter Cornhill, visit two or three petty provinces
+there in your way west; and thus having boxed your compass, and sailed
+round the whole stock-jobbing globe, you turn into Jonathan's again;
+and so, as most of the great follies of life oblige us to do, you end
+just where you began."
+
+Mrs. Centlivre, in her comedy of _A Bold Stroke for a Wife_, has a
+scene from Jonathan's at the above period: while the stock-jobbers are
+talking, the coffee-boys are crying "Fresh coffee, gentlemen, fresh
+coffee! Bohea tea, gentlemen!"
+
+Here is another picture of Jonathan's, during the South Sea mania;
+though not by an eye-witness, it groups, from various authorities, the
+life of the place and the time:--"At a table a few yards off sat a
+couple of men engaged in the discussion of a newly-started scheme.
+Plunging his hand impatiently under the deep silver-buttoned flap of
+his frock-coat of cinnamon cloth and drawing out a paper, the more
+business-looking of the pair commenced eagerly to read out figures
+intended to convince the listener, who took a jewelled snuff-box from
+the deep pocket of the green brocade waistcoat which overflapped his
+thigh, and, tapping the lid, enjoyed a pinch of perfumed Turkish as he
+leaned back lazily in his chair. Somewhat further off, standing in the
+middle of the room, was a keen-eyed lawyer, counting on his fingers
+the probable results of a certain speculation in human hair, to which
+a fresh-coloured farmer from St. Albans, on whose boots the mud of the
+cattle market was not dry, listened with a face of stolid avarice,
+clutching the stag-horn handle of his thonged whip as vigorously as if
+it were the wealth he coveted. There strode a Nonconformist divine,
+with S. S. S. in every line of his face, greedy for the gold that
+perisheth; here a bishop, whose truer place was Garraway's, edged his
+cassock through the crowd; sturdy ship-captains, whose manners smack
+of blustering breezes, and who hailed their acquaintance as if through
+a speaking-trumpet in a storm--booksellers' hacks from Grub-street,
+who were wont to borrow ink-bottles and just one sheet of paper at the
+bar of the Black Swan in St. Martin's-lane, and whose tarnished lace,
+when not altogether torn away, showed a suspicious coppery redness
+underneath--Jews of every grade, from the thriving promoter of a
+company for importing ashes from Spain or extracting stearine from
+sunflower seeds to the seller of sailor slops from Wapping-in-the-Wose,
+come to look for a skipper who had bilked him--a sprinkling of
+well-to-do merchants--and a host of those flashy hangers-on to the
+skirts of commerce, who brighten up in days of maniacal speculation,
+and are always ready to dispose of shares in some unopened mine or
+some untried invention--passed and repassed with continuous change and
+murmur before the squire's eyes during the quarter of an hour that he
+sat there."--_Pictures of the Periods, by W. F. Collier LL.D._
+
+
+RAINBOW COFFEE-HOUSE.
+
+The Rainbow, in Fleet-street, appears to have been the second
+Coffee-house opened in the metropolis.
+
+"The first Coffee-house in London," says Aubrey (MS. in the Bodleian
+Library), "was in St. Michael's-alley, in Cornhill, opposite to the
+church, which was set up by one ---- Bowman (coachman to Mr. Hodges, a
+Turkey merchant, who putt him upon it), in or about the yeare 1652.
+'Twas about four yeares before any other was sett up, and that was by
+Mr. Farr." This was the Rainbow.
+
+Another account states that one Edwards, a Turkey merchant, on his
+return from the East, brought with him a Ragusian Greek servant, named
+Pasqua Rosee, who prepared coffee every morning for his master, and
+with the coachman above named set up the first Coffee-house in St.
+Michael's-alley; but they soon quarrelled and separated, the coachman
+establishing himself in St. Michael's churchyard.--(See pp. 2 and 4,
+_ante._)
+
+Aubrey wrote the above in 1680, and Mr. Farr had then become a person
+of consequence. In his _Lives_, Aubrey notes:--"When coffee first came
+in, Sir Henry Blount was a great upholder of it, and hath ever since
+been a great frequenter of coffee-houses, especially Mr. Farre's, at
+the Rainbowe, by Inner Temple Gate."
+
+Farr was originally a barber. His success as a coffee-man appears to
+have annoyed his neighbours; and at the inquest at St. Dunstan's, Dec.
+21st, 1657, among the presentments of nuisances were the
+following:--"We present James Farr, barber, for making and selling of
+a drink called coffee, whereby in making the same he annoyeth his
+neighbours by evill smells; and for keeping of fire for the most part
+night and day, whereby his chimney and chamber hath been set on fire,
+to the great danger and affrightment of his neighbours." However, Farr
+was not ousted; he probably promised reform, or amended the alleged
+annoyance: he remained at the Rainbow, and rose to be a person of
+eminence and repute in the parish. He issued a token, date 1666--an
+arched rainbow based on clouds, doubtless, from the Great Fire--to
+indicate that with him all was yet safe, and the Rainbow still
+radiant. There is one of his tokens in the Beaufoy collection, at
+Guildhall, and so far as is known to Mr. Burn, the rainbow does not
+occur on any other tradesman's token. The house was let off into
+tenements: books were printed here at this very time "for Samuel
+Speed, at the sign of the Rainbow, near the Inner Temple Gate, in
+Fleet-street." The Phoenix Fire Office was established here about
+1682. Hatton, in 1708, evidently attributed Farr's nuisance to the
+_coffee itself_ saying: "Who would have thought London would ever have
+had three thousand such nuisances, and that coffee would have been (as
+now) so much drank by the best of quality, and physicians?" The
+nuisance was in Farr's chimney and carelessness, not in the coffee.
+Yet, in our statute-book anno 1660 (12 Car. II. c. 24), a duty of
+4_d._ was laid upon every gallon of coffee made and sold. A statute of
+1663 directs that all Coffee-houses should be licensed at the Quarter
+Sessions. And in 1675, Charles II. issued a proclamation to shut up
+the Coffee-houses, charged with being seminaries of sedition; but in a
+few days he suspended this proclamation by a second.
+
+The _Spectator_, No. 16, notices some gay frequenters of the
+Rainbow:--"I have received a letter desiring me to be very satirical
+upon the little muff that is now in fashion; another informs me of a
+pair of silver garters buckled below the knee, that have been lately
+seen at the Rainbow Coffee-house in Fleet-street."
+
+Mr. Moncrieff, the dramatist, used to tell that about 1780, this house
+was kept by his grandfather, Alexander Moncrieff, when it retained its
+original title of "The Rainbow Coffee-house." The old Coffee-room had
+a lofty bay-window, at the south end, looking into the Temple: and the
+room was separated from the kitchen only by a glazed partition: in the
+bay was the table for the elders. The house has long been a tavern;
+all the old rooms have been swept away, and a large and lofty
+dining-room erected in their place.
+
+In a paper read to the British Archæological Association, by Mr. E. B.
+Price, we find coffee and canary thus brought into interesting
+comparison, illustrated by the exhibition of one of Farr's Rainbow
+tokens; and another inscribed "At the Canary House in the Strand,
+1_d_., 1665," bearing also the word "Canary" in the monogram. Having
+noticed the prosecution of Farr, and his triumph over his
+fellow-parishioners, Mr. Price says:--"The opposition to coffee
+continued; people viewed it with distrust, and even with alarm: and we
+can sympathize with them in their alarm: when we consider that they
+entertained a notion that coffee would eventually put an end to the
+species; that the _genus homo_ would some day or other be utterly
+extinguished. With our knowledge of the beneficial effect of this
+article on the community, and its almost universal adoption in the
+present day, we may smile, and wonder while we smile, at the bare
+possibility of such a notion ever having prevailed. That it did so, we
+have ample evidence in the "Women's Petition against Coffee," in the
+year 1674, cited by D'Israeli, _Curiosities of Literature_, vol. iv.,
+and in which they complain that coffee "made men as unfruitful as the
+deserts whence that unhappy berry is said to be brought: that the
+offspring of our mighty ancestors would dwindle into a succession of
+apes and pigmies," etc. The same authority gives us an extract from a
+very amusing poem of 1663, in which the writer wonders that any man
+should prefer Coffee to Canary, terming them English apes, and proudly
+referring them to the days of Beaumont and Fletcher and Ben Jonson.
+_They_, says he,
+
+         "Drank pure nectar as the gods drink too
+     Sublimed with rich _Canary_; say, shall then
+     These less than coffee's self, these coffee-men,
+     These sons of nothing, that can hardly make
+     Their broth for laughing how the jest does take,
+     Yet grin, and give ye for the vine's pure blood
+     A loathsome potion--not yet understood,
+     Syrup of soot, or essence of old shoes,
+     Dasht with diurnals or the book of news?"
+
+One of the weaknesses of "rare Ben" was his _penchant_ for Canary. And
+it would seem that the Mermaid, in Bread-street, was the house in
+which he enjoyed it most:
+
+     "But that which most doth take my muse and me,
+     Is a pure cup of rich _Canary wine_,
+     Which is the Mermaid's now, but shall be mine."
+
+Granger states that Charles I. raised Ben's pension from 100 marks to
+100 pounds, and added a tierce of canary, which salary and its
+appendage, he says, have ever since been continued to poets laureate.
+
+Reverting to the Rainbow (says Mr. Price), "it has been frequently
+remarked by 'tavern-goers,' that many of our snuggest and most
+comfortable taverns are hidden from vulgar gaze, and unapproachable
+except through courts, blind alleys, or but half-lighted passages." Of
+this description was the house in question. But few of its many
+nightly, or rather midnightly patrons and frequenters, knew aught of
+it beyond its famed "stewed cheeses," and its "stout," with the
+various "et ceteras" of good cheer. They little dreamed, and perhaps
+as little cared to know, that, more than two centuries back, the
+Rainbow flourished as a bookseller's shop; as appears by the
+title-page of Trussell's _History of England_, which states it to be
+"printed by M. D., for Ephraim Dawson, and are to bee sold in Fleet
+Street, at the signe of the Rainbowe, neere the Inner-Temple Gate,
+1636."
+
+
+NANDO'S COFFEE-HOUSE
+
+Was the house at the east corner of Inner Temple-lane, No. 17,
+Fleet-street, and next-door to the shop of Bernard Lintot, the
+bookseller; though it has been by some confused with Groom's house,
+No. 16. Nando's was the favourite haunt of Lord Thurlow, before he
+dashed into law practice. At this Coffee-house a large attendance of
+professional loungers was attracted by the fame of the punch and the
+charms of the landlady, which, with the small wits, were duly admired
+by and at the bar. One evening, the famous cause of Douglas _v._. the
+Duke of Hamilton was the topic of discussion, when Thurlow being
+present, it was suggested, half in earnest, to appoint him junior
+counsel, which was done. This employment brought him acquainted with
+the Duchess of Queensberry, who saw at once the value of a man like
+Thurlow, and recommended Lord Bute to secure him by a silk gown.
+
+The house, formerly Nando's, has been for many years a hair-dresser's.
+It is inscribed "Formerly the palace of Henry VIII. and Cardinal
+Wolsey." The structure is of the time of James I., and has an enriched
+ceiling inscribed P (triple plumed).
+
+This was the office in which the Council for the Management of the
+Duchy of Cornwall Estates held their sittings; for in the Calendar of
+State Papers, edited by Mrs. Green, is the following entry, of the
+time of Charles, created Prince of Wales four years after the death of
+Henry:--"1619, Feb. 25; Prince's _Council Chamber, Fleet-street_.
+--Council of the Prince of Wales to the Keepers of Brancepeth, Raby,
+and Barnard Castles: The trees blown down are only to be used for
+mending the pales, and no wood to be cut for firewood, nor browse for
+the deer."
+
+
+DICK'S COFFEE-HOUSE.
+
+This old Coffee-house, No. 8, Fleet-street (south side, near Temple
+Bar), was originally "Richard's," named from Richard Torner, or
+Turner, to whom the house was let in 1680. The Coffee-room retains
+its olden paneling, and the staircase its original balusters.
+
+The interior of Dick's Coffee-house is engraved as a frontispiece to a
+drama, called _The Coffee-house_, performed at Drury-lane Theatre in
+1737. The piece met with great opposition on its representation, owing
+to its being stated that the characters were intended for a particular
+family (that of Mrs. Yarrow and her daughter), who kept Dick's, the
+coffee-house which the artist had inadvertently selected as the
+frontispiece.
+
+It appears that the landlady and her daughter were the reigning toast
+of the Templars, who then frequented Dick's; and took the matter up so
+strongly that they united to condemn the farce on the night of its
+production; they succeeded, and even extended their resentment to
+every thing suspected to be this author's (the Rev. James Miller) for
+a considerable time after.
+
+Richard's, as it was then called, was frequented by Cowper, when he
+lived in the Temple. In his own account of his insanity, Cowper tells
+us: "At breakfast I read the newspaper, and in it a letter, which, the
+further I perused it, the more closely engaged my attention. I cannot
+now recollect the purport of it; but before I had finished it, it
+appeared demonstratively true to me that it was a libel or satire upon
+me. The author appeared to be acquainted with my purpose of
+self-destruction, and to have written that letter on purpose to secure
+and hasten the execution of it. My mind, probably, at this time began
+to be disordered; however it was, I was certainly given to a strong
+delusion. I said within myself, 'Your cruelty shall be gratified; you
+shall have your revenge,' and flinging down the paper in a fit of
+strong passion, I rushed hastily out of the room; directing my way
+towards the fields, where I intended to find some house to die in; or,
+if not, determined to poison myself in a ditch, where I could meet
+with one sufficiently retired."
+
+It is worth while to revert to the earlier tenancy of the
+Coffee-house, which was, wholly or in part, the original printing
+office of Richard Tottel, law-printer to Edward VI., Queens Mary and
+Elizabeth; the premises were attached to No. 7, Fleet-street, which
+bore the sign of "The Hand and Starre," where Tottel lived, and
+published the law and other works he printed. No. 7 was subsequently
+occupied by Jaggard and Joel Stephens, eminent law-printers, temp.
+Geo. I.-III.; and at the present day the house is most appropriately
+occupied by Messrs. Butterworth, who follow the occupation Tottel did
+in the days of Edward VI., being law-publishers to Queen Victoria; and
+they possess the original leases, from the earliest grant, in the
+reign of Henry VIII., the period of their own purchase.
+
+
+THE "LLOYD'S" OF THE TIME OF CHARLES II.
+
+During the reign of Charles II., Coffee-houses grew into such favour,
+that they quickly spread over the metropolis, and were the usual
+meeting-places of the roving cavaliers, who seldom visited home but to
+sleep. The following song, from Jordan's _Triumphs of London_, 1675,
+affords a very curious picture of the manners of the times, and the
+sort of conversation then usually met with in a well-frequented house
+of the sort,--the "Lloyd's" of the seventeenth century:--
+
+     "You that delight in wit and mirth,
+       And love to hear such news
+     That come from all parts of the earth,
+       Turks, Dutch, and Danes, and Jews:
+     I'll send ye to the rendezvous,
+       Where it is smoaking new;
+     Go hear it at a coffee-house,
+       It cannot but be true.
+
+     "There battails and sea-fights are fought,
+       And bloudy plots displaid;
+     They know more things than e'er was thought,
+       Or ever was bewray'd:
+     No money in the minting-house
+       Is half so bright and new;
+     And coming from the _Coffee-House_,
+       It cannot but be true.
+
+     "Before the navies fell to work,
+       They knew who should be winner;
+     They there can tell ye what the Turk
+       Last Sunday had to dinner.
+     Who last did cut Du Ruiter's[3] corns,
+       Amongst his jovial crew;
+     Or who first gave the devil horns,
+       Which cannot but be true.
+
+     "A fisherman did boldly tell,
+       And strongly did avouch,
+     He caught a shole of mackerell,
+       They parley'd all in Dutch;
+     And cry'd out _Yaw, yaw, yaw, mine hare_,
+       And as the draught they drew,
+     They stunk for fear that Monk[4] was there:
+       This sounds as if 'twere true.
+
+     "There's nothing done in all the world,
+       From monarch to the mouse;
+     But every day or night 'tis hurl'd
+       Into the coffee-house:
+     What Lilly[5] what Booker[6] cou'd
+       By art not bring about,
+     At Coffee-house you'll find a brood,
+       Can quickly find it out.
+
+     "They know who shall in times to come,
+       Be either made or undone,
+     From great St. Peter's-street in Rome,
+       To Turnbal-street[7] in London.
+
+     "They know all that is good or hurt,
+       To damn ye or to save ye;
+     There is the college and the court,
+       The country, camp, and navy.
+     So great an university,
+       I think there ne'er was any;
+     In which you may a scholar be,
+       For spending of a penny.
+
+     "Here men do talk of everything,
+       With large and liberal lungs,
+     Like women at a gossiping,
+       With double tire of tongues,
+     They'll give a broadside presently,
+       'Soon as you are in view:
+     With stories that you'll wonder at,
+       Which they will swear are true.
+
+     "You shall know there what fashions are,
+       How perriwigs are curl'd;
+     And for a penny you shall hear
+       All novels in the world;
+     Both old and young, and great and small,
+       And rich and poor you'll see;
+     Therefore let's to the Coffee all,
+       Come all away with me."
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[3] The Dutch admiral who, in June, 1667, dashed into the Downs with a
+fleet of eighty sail, and many fire-ships, blocked up the mouths of
+the Medway and Thames, destroyed the fortifications at Sheerness, cut
+away the paltry defences of booms and chains drawn across the rivers,
+and got to Chatham, on the one side, and nearly to Gravesend on the
+other; the king having spent in debauchery the money voted by
+Parliament for the proper support of the English navy.
+
+[4] General Monk and Prince Rupert were at this time commanders of the
+English fleet.
+
+[5] Lilly was the celebrated astrologer of the Protectorate, who
+earned great fame at that time by predicting, in June, 1645, "if now
+we fight, a victory stealeth upon us:" a lucky guess, signally
+verified in the King's defeat at Naseby. Lilly thenceforth always saw
+the stars favourable to the Puritans.
+
+[6] This man was originally a fishing-tackle-maker in Tower-street,
+during the reign of Charles I.; but turning enthusiast, he went about
+prognosticating "the downfall of the King and Popery;" and as he and
+his predictions were all on the popular side, he became a great man
+with the superstitious "godly brethren" of that day.
+
+[7] Turnbal, or Turnbull-street as it is still called, had been for a
+century previous of infamous repute. In Beaumont and Fletcher's play,
+the _Knight of the Burning Pestle_, one of the ladies who is
+undergoing penance at the barber's, has her character sufficiently
+pointed out to the audience, in her declaration, that she had been
+"stolen from her friends in Turnbal-street."
+
+
+LLOYD'S COFFEE-HOUSE.
+
+Lloyd's is one of the earliest establishments of the kind; it is
+referred to in a poem printed in the year 1700, called the _Wealthy
+Shopkeeper, or Charitable Christian_:
+
+     "Now to Lloyd's coffee-house he never fails,
+     To read the letters, and attend the sales."
+
+In 1710, Steele (_Tatler_, No. 246,) dates from Lloyd's his Petition
+on Coffee-house Orators and Newsvendors. And Addison, in _Spectator_,
+April 23, 1711, relates this droll incident:--"About a week since
+there happened to me a very odd accident, by reason of which one of
+these my papers of minutes which I had accidentally dropped at Lloyd's
+Coffee-house, where the auctions are usually kept. Before I missed it,
+there were a cluster of people who had found it, and were diverting
+themselves with it at one end of the coffee-house. It had raised so
+much laughter among them before I observed what they were about, that
+I had not the courage to own it. The boy of the coffee-house, when
+they had done with it, carried it about in his hand, asking everybody
+if they had dropped a written paper; but nobody challenging it, he was
+ordered by those merry gentlemen who had before perused it, to get up
+into the auction-pulpit, and read it to the whole room, that if
+anybody would own it, they might. The boy accordingly mounted the
+pulpit, and with a very audible voice read what proved to be minutes,
+which made the whole coffee-house very merry; some of them concluded
+it was written by a madman, and others by somebody that had been
+taking notes out of the _Spectator_. After it was read, and the boy
+was coming out of the pulpit, the Spectator reached his arm out, and
+desired the boy to give it him; which was done according. This drew
+the whole eyes of the company upon the Spectator; but after casting a
+cursory glance over it, he shook his head twice or thrice at the
+reading of it, twisted it into a kind of match, and lighted his pipe
+with it. 'My profound silence,' says the Spectator, 'together with the
+steadiness of my countenance, and the gravity of my behaviour during
+the whole transaction, raised a very loud laugh on all sides of me;
+but as I had escaped all suspicion of being the author, I was very
+well satisfied, and applying myself to my pipe and the _Postman_, took
+no further notice of anything that passed about me.'"
+
+Nothing is positively known of the original Lloyd; but in 1750, there
+was issued an Irregular Ode, entitled _A Summer's Farewell to the
+Gulph of Venice, in the Southwell Frigate_, Captain Manly, jun.,
+commanding, stated to be "printed for Lloyd, well-known for obliging
+the public with the Freshest and Most Authentic Ship News, and sold by
+A. More, near St. Paul's, and at the Pamphlet Shops in London and
+Westminster, MDCCL."
+
+In the _Gentleman's Magazine_, for 1740, we read:--"11 March, 1740,
+Mr. Baker, Master of Lloyd's Coffee-house, in Lombard-street, waited
+on Sir Robert Walpole with the news of Admiral Vernon's taking
+Portobello. This was the first account received thereof, and proving
+true, Sir Robert was pleased to order him a handsome present."
+
+Lloyd's is, perhaps, the oldest collective establishment in the City.
+It was first under the management of a single individual, who started
+it as a room where the underwriters and insurers of ships' cargoes
+could meet for refreshment and conversation. The Coffee-house was
+originally in Lombard-street, at the corner of Abchurch-lane;
+subsequently in Pope's-head-alley, where it was called "New Lloyd's
+Coffee-house;" but on February 14th, 1774, it was removed to the
+north-west corner of the Royal Exchange, where it remained until the
+destruction of that building by fire.
+
+In rebuilding the Exchange, a fine suite of apartments was provided
+for Lloyd's "Subscription Rooms," which are the rendezvous of the most
+eminent merchants, ship-owners, underwriters, insurance, stock, and
+exchange brokers. Here is obtained the earliest news of the arrival
+and sailing of vessels, losses at sea, captures, recaptures,
+engagements, and other shipping intelligence; and proprietors of ships
+and freights are insured by the underwriters. The rooms are in the
+Venetian style, with Roman enrichments. They are--1. The Subscribers'
+or Underwriters', the Merchants', and the Captains' Room. At the
+entrance of the room are exhibited the Shipping Lists, received from
+Lloyd's agents at home and abroad, and affording particulars of
+departures or arrivals of vessels, wrecks, salvage, or sale of
+property saved, etc. To the right and left are "Lloyd's Books," two
+enormous ledgers: right hand, ships "spoken with," or arrived at their
+destined ports; left hand: records of wrecks, fires, or severe
+collisions, written in a fine Roman hand, in "double lines." To assist
+the underwriters in their calculations, at the end of the room is an
+Anemometer, which registers the state of the wind day and night;
+attached is a rain-gauge.
+
+The life of the underwriter is one of great anxiety and speculation.
+"Among the old stagers of the room, there is often strong antipathy to
+the insurance of certain ships. In the case of one vessel it was
+strangely followed out. She was a steady trader, named after one of
+the most venerable members of the room; and it was a curious
+coincidence that he invariably refused to 'write her' for 'a single
+line.' Often he was joked upon the subject, and pressed to 'do a
+little' for his namesake; but he as often declined, shaking his head
+in a doubtful manner. One morning the subscribers were reading the
+'double lines,' or the losses, and among them was this identical ship,
+which had gone to pieces, and become a total wreck."--_The City_, _2nd
+edit._, 1848.
+
+The Merchants' Room is superintended by a master, who can speak
+several languages: here are duplicate copies of the books in the
+underwriters' room, and files of English and foreign newspapers.
+
+The Captains' Room is a kind of coffee-room, where merchants and
+ship-owners meet captains, and sales of ships, etc. take place.
+
+The members of Lloyd's have ever been distinguished by their loyalty
+and benevolent spirit. In 1802, they voted 2000_l._ to the Life-boat
+subscription. On July 20, 1803, at the invasion panic, they commenced
+the Patriotic Fund with 20,000_l._ 3-per-cent. Consols; besides
+70,312_l._ 7_s._ individual subscriptions, and 15,000_l._ additional
+donations. After the battle of the Nile, in 1798, they collected for
+the widows and wounded seamen 32,423_l._; and after Lord Howe's
+victory, June 1, 1794, for similar purposes, 21,281_l._ They have also
+contributed 5000_l._ to the London Hospital; 1000_.l_ for the
+suffering inhabitants of Russia in 1813; 1000_l._ for the relief of
+the militia in our North American colonies, 1813; and 10,000_l._ for
+the Waterloo subscription, in 1815. The Committee vote medals and
+rewards to those who distinguish themselves in saving life from
+shipwreck.
+
+Some years since, a member of Lloyd's drew from the books the
+following lines of names contained therein:--
+
+     "A Black and a White, with a Brown and a Green,
+     And also a Gray at Lloyd's room may be seen;
+     With Parson and Clark, then a Bishop and Pryor,
+     And Water, how Strange adding fuel to fire;
+     While, at the same time, 'twill sure pass belief,
+     There's a Winter, a Garland, Furze, Bud, and a Leaf;
+     With Freshfield, and Greenhill, Lovegrove, and a Dale;
+     Though there's never a Breeze, there's always a Gale.
+     No music is there, though a Whistler and Harper;
+     There's a Blunt and a Sharp, many flats, but no sharper.
+     There's a Danniell, a Samuel, a Sampson, an Abell;
+     The first and the last write at the same table.
+     Then there's Virtue and Faith there, with Wylie and Rasch,
+     Disagreeing elsewhere, yet at Lloyd's never clash,
+     There's a Long and a Short, Small, Little, and Fatt,
+     With one Robert Dewar, who ne'er wears his hat:
+     No drinking goes on, though there's Porter and Sack,
+     Lots of Scotchmen there are, beginning with Mac;
+     Macdonald, to wit, Macintosh and McGhie,
+     McFarquhar, McKenzie, McAndrew, Mackie.
+     An evangelized Jew, and an infidel Quaker;
+     There's a Bunn and a Pye, with a Cook and a Baker,
+     Though no Tradesmen or Shopmen are found, yet herewith
+     Is a Taylor, a Saddler, a Paynter, a Smyth;
+     Also Butler and Chapman, with Butter and Glover,
+     Come up to Lloyd's room their bad risks to cover.
+     Fox, Shepherd, Hart, Buck, likewise come every day;
+     And though many an ass, there is only one Bray.
+     There is a Mill and Miller, A-dam and a Poole,
+     A Constable, Sheriff, a Law, and a Rule.
+     There's a Newman, a Niemann, a Redman, a Pitman,
+     Now to rhyme with the last, there is no other fit man.
+     These, with Young, Cheap, and Lent, Luckie, Hastie, and Slow,
+     With dear Mr. Allnutt, Allfrey, and Auldjo,
+     Are all the queer names that at Lloyd's I can show."
+
+Many of these individuals are now deceased; but a frequenter of
+Lloyd's in former years will recognize the persons mentioned.
+
+
+THE JERUSALEM COFFEE-HOUSE,
+
+Cornhill, is one of the oldest of the City news-rooms, and is
+frequented by merchants and captains connected with the commerce of
+China, India, and Australia.
+
+"The subscription-room is well-furnished with files of the principal
+Canton, Hongkong, Macao, Penang, Singapore, Calcutta, Bombay, Madras,
+Sydney, Hobart Town, Launceston, Adelaide, and Port Phillip papers,
+and Prices Current: besides shipping lists and papers from the various
+intermediate stations or ports touched at, as St. Helena, the Cape of
+Good Hope, etc. The books of East India shipping include arrivals,
+departures, casualties, etc. The full business is between two and
+three o'clock, p.m. In 1845, John Tawell, the Slough murderer, was
+captured at [traced to] the Jerusalem, which he was in the habit of
+visiting, to ascertain information of the state of his property in
+Sydney."--_The City_, 2nd edit., 1848.
+
+
+BAKER'S COFFEE-HOUSE,
+
+Change-alley, is remembered as a tavern some forty years since. The
+landlord, after whom it is named, may possibly have been a descendant
+from "Baker," the master of Lloyd's Rooms. It has been, for many
+years, a chop-house, with direct service from the gridiron, and upon
+pewter; though on the first-floor, joint dinners are served: its
+post-prandial punch was formerly much drunk. In the lower room is a
+portrait of James, thirty-five years waiter here.
+
+
+COFFEE-HOUSES OF THE EIGHTEENTH CENTURY.
+
+Of Ward's _Secret History_ of the Clubs of his time we have already
+given several specimens. Little is known of him personally. He was,
+probably, born in 1660, and early in life he visited the West Indies.
+Sometime before 1669, he kept a tavern and punch-house, next door to
+Gray's Inn, of which we shall speak hereafter. His works are now
+rarely to be met with. His doggrel secured him a place in the
+_Dunciad_, where not only his elevation to the pillory is mentioned,
+but the fact is also alluded to that his productions were extensively
+shipped to the Plantations or Colonies of those days,--
+
+     "Nor sail with Ward to ape-and-monkey climes,
+     Where vile mundungus trucks for viler rhymes,"
+
+the only places, probably, where they were extensively read. In return
+for the doubtful celebrity thus conferred upon his rhymes, he attacked
+the satirist in a wretched production, intituled _Apollo's Maggot in
+his Cups_; his expiring effort, probably, for he died, as recorded in
+the pages of our first volume, on the 22nd of June, 1731. His remains
+were buried in the churchyard of Old St. Pancras, his body being
+followed to the grave solely by his wife and daughter, as directed by
+him in his poetical will, written some six years before. We learn
+from Noble that there are no less than four engraved portraits of Ned
+Ward. The structure of the _London Spy_, the only work of his that at
+present comes under our notice, is simple enough. The author is
+self-personified as a countryman, who, tired with his "tedious
+confinement to a country hutt," comes up to London; where he
+fortunately meets with a quondam school-fellow,--a "man about town,"
+in modern phrase,--who undertakes to introduce him to the various
+scenes, sights, and mysteries of the, even then, "great metropolis:"
+much like the visit, in fact, from Jerry Hawthorn to Corinthian Tom,
+only anticipated by some hundred and twenty years. "We should not be
+at all surprised (says the _Gentleman's Magazine_,) to find that the
+stirring scenes of Pierce Egan's _Life in London_ were first suggested
+by more homely pages of the _London Spy_."
+
+At the outset of the work we have a description--not a very flattering
+one, certainly--of a common coffee-house of the day, one of the many
+hundreds with which London then teemed. Although coffee had been only
+known in England some fifty years, coffee-houses were already among
+the most favourite institutions of the land; though they had not as
+yet attained the political importance which they acquired in the days
+of the _Tatler_ and _Spectator_, some ten or twelve years later:--
+
+"'Come,' says my friend, 'let us step into this coffee-house here; as
+you are a stranger in the town, it will afford you some diversion.'
+Accordingly in we went, where a parcel of muddling muckworms were as
+busy as so many rats in an old cheese-loft; some going, some coming,
+some scribbling, some talking, some drinking, some smoking, others
+jangling; and the whole room stinking of tobacco, like a Dutch scoot
+[schuyt], or a boatswain's cabin. The walls were hung round with gilt
+frames, as a farrier's shop with horse-shoes; which contained
+abundance of rarities, viz., Nectar and Ambrosia, May-dew, Golden
+Elixirs, Popular Pills, Liquid Snuff, Beautifying Waters, Dentifrices,
+Drops, and Lozenges; all as infallible as the Pope, 'Where every one
+(as the famous Saffolde has it) above the rest, Deservedly has gain'd
+the name of best:' every medicine being so catholic, it pretends to
+nothing less than universality. So that, had not my friend told me
+'twas a coffee-house, I should have taken it for Quacks' Hall, or the
+parlour of some eminent mountebank. We each of us stuck in our mouths
+a pipe of sotweed, and now began to look about us."
+
+A description of Man's Coffee-house, situate in Scotland-yard, near
+the water-side, is an excellent picture of a fashionable coffee-house
+of the day. It took its name from the proprietor, Alexander Man, and
+was sometimes known as Old Man's, or the Royal Coffee-house, to
+distinguish it from Young Man's and Little Man's minor establishments
+in the neighbourhood:--
+
+"We now ascended a pair of stairs, which brought us into an
+old-fashioned room, where a gaudy crowd of odoriferous _Tom-Essences_
+were walking backwards and forwards with their hats in their hands,
+not daring to convert them to their intended use, lest it should put
+the foretops of their wigs into some disorder. We squeezed through
+till we got to the end of the room, where, at a small table, we sat
+down, and observed that it was as great a rarity to hear anybody call
+for a dish of _Politician's porridge_, or any other liquor, as it is
+to hear a beau call for a pipe of tobacco; their whole exercise being
+to charge and discharge their nostrils, and keep the curls of their
+periwigs in their proper order. The clashing of their snush-box lids,
+in opening and shutting, made more noise than their tongues. Bows and
+cringes of the newest mode were here exchanged, 'twixt friend and
+friend, with wonderful exactness. They made a humming like so many
+hornets in a country chimney, not with their talking, but with their
+whispering over their new _Minuets_ and _Bories_, with their hands in
+their pockets, if only freed from their snush-box. We now began to be
+thoughtful of a pipe of tobacco; whereupon we ventured to call for
+some instruments of evaporation, which were accordingly brought us,
+but with such a kind of unwillingness, as if they would much rather
+have been rid of our company; for their tables were so very neat, and
+shined with rubbing, like the upper-leathers of an alderman's shoes,
+and as brown as the top of a country housewife's cupboard. The floor
+was as clean swept as a Sir Courtly's dining-room, which made us look
+round, to see if there were no orders hung up to impose the forfeiture
+of so much Mop-money upon any person that should spit out of the
+chimney-corner. Notwithstanding we wanted an example to encourage us
+in our porterly rudeness, we ordered them to light the wax-candle, by
+which we ignified our pipes and blew about our whiffs; at which
+several Sir Foplins drew their faces into as many peevish wrinkles, as
+the beaux at the Bow-street Coffee-house, near Covent-garden did, when
+the gentleman in masquerade came in amongst them, with his
+oyster-barrel muff and turnip-buttons, to ridicule their fopperies."
+
+
+A cabinet picture of the Coffee-house life of a century and a half
+since is thus given in the well-known _Journey through England_ in
+1714: "I am lodged," says the tourist, "in the street called Pall
+Mall, the ordinary residence of all strangers, because of its vicinity
+to the Queen's Palace, the Park, the Parliament House, the Theatres,
+and the Chocolate and Coffee-houses, where the best company frequent.
+If you would know our manner of living, 'tis thus: we rise by nine,
+and those that frequent great men's levees, find entertainment at them
+till eleven, or, as in Holland, go to tea-tables; about twelve the
+_beau monde_ assemble in several Coffee or Chocolate houses: the best
+of which are the Cocoa-tree and White's Chocolate-houses, St. James's,
+the Smyrna, Mrs. Rochford's, and the British Coffee-houses; and all
+these so near one another, that in less than an hour you see the
+company of them all. We are carried to these places in chairs (or
+sedans), which are here very cheap, a guinea a week, or a shilling per
+hour, and your chairmen serve you for porters to run on errands, as
+your gondoliers do at Venice.
+
+"If it be fine weather, we take a turn into the Park till two, when we
+go to dinner; and if it be dirty, you are entertained at piquet or
+basset at White's, or you may talk politics at the Smyrna or St.
+James's. I must not forget to tell you that the parties have their
+different places, where, however, a stranger is always well received;
+but a Whig will no more go to the Cocoa-tree or Ozinda's, than a Tory
+will be seen at the Coffee-house, St. James's.
+
+"The Scots go generally to the British, and a mixture of all sorts to
+the Smyrna. There are other little Coffee-houses much frequented in
+this neighbourhood,--Young Man's for officers, Old Man's for
+stock-jobbers, pay-masters, and courtiers, and Little Man's for
+sharpers. I never was so confounded in my life as when I entered into
+this last: I saw two or three tables full at faro, heard the box and
+dice rattling in the room above stairs, and was surrounded by a set of
+sharp faces, that I was afraid would have devoured me with their eyes.
+I was glad to drop two or three half crowns at faro to get off with a
+clear skin, and was overjoyed I so got rid of them.
+
+"At two, we generally go to dinner; ordinaries are not so common here
+as abroad, yet the French have set up two or three good ones for the
+convenience of foreigners in Suffolk-street, where one is tolerably
+well served; but the general way here is to make a party at the
+Coffee-house to go to dine at the tavern, where we sit till six, when
+we go to the play; except you are invited to the table of some great
+man, which strangers are always courted to, and nobly entertained."
+
+We may here group the leading Coffee-houses,[8] the principal of which
+will be more fully described hereafter:
+
+"Before 1715, the number of Coffee-houses in London was reckoned at
+two thousand. Every profession, trade, class, party, had its favourite
+Coffee-house. The lawyers discussed law or literature, criticized the
+last new play, or retailed the freshest Westminster Hall "bite" at
+Nando's or the Grecian, both close on the purlieus of the Temple. Here
+the young bloods of the Inns-of-Court paraded their Indian gowns and
+lace caps of a morning, and swaggered in their lace coats and Mechlin
+ruffles at night, after the theatre. The Cits met to discuss the rise
+and fall of stocks, and to settle the rate of insurance, at Garraway's
+or Jonathan's; the parsons exchanged university gossip, or commented
+on Dr. Sacheverel's last sermon at Truby's or at Child's in St. Paul's
+Churchyard; the soldiers mustered to grumble over their grievances at
+Old or Young Man's, near Charing Cross; the St. James's and the Smyrna
+were the head-quarters of the Whig politicians, while the Tories
+frequented the Cocoa-tree or Ozinda's, all in St. James's-street;
+Scotchmen had their house of call at Forrest's, Frenchmen at Giles's
+or Old Slaughter's, in St. Martin's-lane; the gamesters shook their
+elbows in White's and the Chocolate-houses round Covent Garden; the
+_virtuosi_ honoured the neighbourhood of Gresham College; and the
+leading wits gathered at Will's, Button's, or Tom's, in Great
+Russell-street, where after the theatre was playing at piquet and the
+best of conversation till midnight. At all these places, except a few
+of the most aristocratic Coffee or Chocolate-houses of the West-End,
+smoking was allowed. A penny was laid down at the bar on entering, and
+the price of a dish of tea or coffee seems to have been two-pence:
+this charge covered newspapers and lights. The established frequenters
+of the house had their regular seats, and special attention from the
+fair lady at the bar, and the tea or coffee boys.
+
+"To these Coffee-houses men of all classes, who had either leisure or
+money, resorted to spend both; and in them, politics, play, scandal,
+criticism, and business, went on hand-in-hand. The transition from
+Coffee-house to Club was easy. Thus Tom's, a Coffee-house till 1764,
+in that year, by a guinea subscription, among nearly seven hundred of
+the nobility, foreign ministers, gentry, and geniuses of the age,
+became the place of meeting for the subscribers exclusively.[9] In the
+same way, White's and the Cocoa-tree changed their character from
+Chocolate-house to Club. When once a house had customers enough of
+standing and good repute, and acquainted with each other, it was quite
+worth while--considering the characters who, on the strength of
+assurance, tolerable manners, and a laced coat, often got a footing in
+these houses while they continued open to the public, to purchase
+power of excluding all but subscribers."
+
+Thus, the chief places of resort were at this period Coffee and
+Chocolate-houses, in which some men almost lived, as they do at the
+present day, at their Clubs. Whoever wished to find a gentleman
+commonly asked, not where he resided, but which coffee-house he
+frequented. No decently attired idler was excluded, provided he laid
+down his penny at the bar; but this he could seldom do without
+struggling through the crowd of beaux who fluttered round the lovely
+bar-maid. Here the proud nobleman or country squire was not to be
+distinguished from the genteel thief and daring highwayman. "Pray,
+sir," says Aimwell to Gibbet, in Farquhar's _Beaux Stratagem_, "ha'n't
+I seen your face at Will's Coffee-house?" The robber's reply is: "Yes,
+Sir, and at White's too."
+
+Three of Addison's papers in the _Spectator_, (Nos. 402, 481, and
+568,) are humorously descriptive of the Coffee-houses of this period.
+No. 403 opens with the remark that "the courts of two countries do not
+so much differ from one another, as the Court and the City, in their
+peculiar ways of life and conversation. In short, the inhabitants of
+St. James's, notwithstanding they live under the same laws, and speak
+the same language, are a distinct people from those of Cheapside, who
+are likewise removed from those of the Temple on the one side, and
+those of Smithfield on the other, by several climates and degrees in
+their way of thinking and conversing together." For this reason, the
+author takes a ramble through London and Westminster, to gather the
+opinions of his ingenious countrymen upon a current report of the King
+of France's death. "I know the faces of all the principal politicians
+within the bills of mortality; and as every Coffee-house has some
+particular statesman belonging to it, who is the mouth of the street
+where he lives, I always take care to place myself near him, in order
+to know his judgment on the present posture of affairs. And, as I
+foresaw, the above report would produce a new face of things in
+Europe, and many curious speculations in our British Coffee-houses, I
+was very desirous to learn the thoughts of our most eminent
+politicians on that occasion.
+
+"That I might begin as near the fountain-head as possible, I first of
+all called in at St. James's, where I found the whole outward room in
+a buzz of politics; the speculations were but very indifferent towards
+the door, but grew finer as you advanced to the upper end of the room,
+and were so much improved by a knot of theorists, who sat in the inner
+room, within the steams of the coffee-pot, that I there heard the
+whole Spanish monarchy disposed of, and all the line of Bourbons
+provided for in less than a quarter of an hour.
+
+"I afterwards called in at Giles's, where I saw a board of French
+gentlemen sitting upon the life and death of their grand monarque.
+Those among them who had espoused the Whig interest very positively
+affirmed that he had departed this life about a week since, and
+therefore, proceeded without any further delay to the release of their
+friends in the galleys, and to their own re-establishment; but,
+finding they could not agree among themselves, I proceeded on my
+intended progress.
+
+"Upon my arrival at Jenny Man's I saw an alert young fellow that
+cocked his hat upon a friend of his, who entered just at the same time
+with myself, and accosted him after the following manner: 'Well, Jack,
+the old prig is dead at last. Sharp's the word. Now or never, boy. Up
+to the walls of Paris, directly;' with several other deep reflections
+of the same nature.
+
+"I met with very little variation in the politics between Charing
+Cross and Covent Garden. And, upon my going into Will's, I found their
+discourse was gone off, from the death of the French King, to that of
+Monsieur Boileau, Racine, Corneille, and several other poets, whom
+they regretted on this occasion as persons who would have obliged the
+world with very noble elegies on the death of so great a prince, and
+so eminent a patron of learning.
+
+"At a Coffee-house near the Temple, I found a couple of young
+gentlemen engaged very smartly in a dispute on the succession to the
+Spanish monarchy. One of them seemed to have been retained as advocate
+for the Duke of Anjou, the other for his Imperial Majesty. They were
+both for regarding the title to that kingdom by the statute laws of
+England: but finding them going out of my depth, I pressed forward to
+Paul's Churchyard, where I listened with great attention to a learned
+man, who gave the company an account of the deplorable state of France
+during the minority of the deceased King.
+
+"I then turned on my right hand into Fish-street, where the chief
+politician of that quarter, upon hearing the news, (after having taken
+a pipe of tobacco, and ruminated for some time,) 'If,' says he, 'the
+King of France is certainly dead, we shall have plenty of mackerel
+this season: our fishery will not be disturbed by privateers, as it
+has been for these ten years past.' He afterwards considered how the
+death of this great man would affect our pilchards, and by several
+other remarks infused a general joy into his whole audience.
+
+"I afterwards entered a by-coffee-house that stood at the upper end of
+a narrow lane, where I met with a conjuror, engaged very warmly with a
+laceman who was the great support of a neighbouring conventicle. The
+matter in debate was whether the late French King was most like
+Augustus Cæsar, or Nero. The controversy was carried on with great
+heat on both sides, and as each of them looked upon me very frequently
+during the course of their debate, I was under some apprehension that
+they would appeal to me, and therefore laid down my penny at the bar,
+and made the best of my way to Cheapside.
+
+"I here gazed upon the signs for some time before I found one to my
+purpose. The first object I met in the coffee-room was a person who
+expressed a great grief for the death of the French King; but upon his
+explaining himself, I found his sorrow did not arise from the loss of
+the monarch, but for his having sold out of the Bank about three days
+before he heard the news of it. Upon which a haberdasher, who was the
+oracle of the Coffee-house, and had his circle of admirers about him,
+called several to witness that he had declared his opinion, above a
+week before, that the French King was certainly dead; to which he
+added, that, considering the late advices we had received from France,
+it was impossible that it could be otherwise. As he was laying these
+together, and debating to his hearers with great authority, there came
+a gentleman from Garraway's, who told us that there were several
+letters from France just come in, with advice that the King was in
+good health, and was gone out a hunting the very morning the post came
+away; upon which the haberdasher stole off his hat that hung upon a
+wooden peg by him, and retired to his shop with great confusion. This
+intelligence put a stop to my travels, which I had prosecuted with so
+much satisfaction; not being a little pleased to hear so many
+different opinions upon so great an event, and to observe how
+naturally, upon such a piece of news, every one is apt to consider it
+to his particular interest and advantage."
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[8] From the National Review, No. 8.
+
+[9] We question whether the Coffee-house general business was entirely
+given up immediately after the transition.
+
+
+COFFEE-HOUSE SHARPERS IN 1776.
+
+The following remarks by Sir John Fielding[10] upon the dangerous
+classes to be found in our metropolitan Coffee-houses three-quarters
+of a century since, are described as "necessary Cautions to all
+Strangers resorting thereto."
+
+"A stranger or foreigner should particularly frequent the
+Coffee-houses in London. These are very numerous in every part of the
+town; will give him the best insight into the different characters of
+the people, and the justest notion of the inhabitants in general, of
+all the houses of public resort these are the least dangerous. Yet,
+some of these are not entirely free from sharpers. The deceivers of
+this denomination are generally descended from families of some
+repute, have had the groundwork of a genteel education, and are
+capable of making a tolerable appearance. Having been equally profuse
+of their own substance and character, and learned, by having been
+undone, the ways of undoing, they lie in wait for those who have more
+wealth and less knowledge of the town. By joining you in discourse, by
+admiring what you say, by an officiousness to wait upon you, and to
+assist you in anything you want to have or know, they insinuate
+themselves into the company and acquaintance of strangers, whom they
+watch every opportunity of fleecing. And if one finds in you the least
+inclination to cards, dice, the billiard-table, bowling-green, or any
+other sort of gaming, you are morally sure of being taken in. For this
+set of gentry are adepts in all the arts of knavery and tricking. If,
+therefore, you should observe a person, without any previous
+acquaintance, paying you extraordinary marks of civility; if he puts
+in for a share of your conversation with a pretended air of deference;
+if he tenders his assistance, courts your acquaintance, and would be
+suddenly thought your friend, avoid him as a pest; for these are the
+usual baits by which the unwary are caught."
+
+FOOTNOTE:
+
+[10] 'The Magistrate: Description of London and Westminster,' 1776.
+
+
+DON SALTERO'S COFFEE-HOUSE.
+
+Among the curiosities of Old Chelsea, almost as well known as its
+china, was the Coffee-house and Museum, No. 18, Cheyne Walk, opened by
+a barber, named Salter, in 1695. Sir Hans Sloane contributed some of
+the refuse gimcracks of his own collection; and Vice-Admiral Munden,
+who had been long on the coast of Spain, where he had acquired a
+fondness for Spanish titles, named the keeper of the house _Don
+Saltero_, and his coffee-house and museum, _Don Saltero's_.
+
+The place, however, would, in all probability, have enjoyed little
+beyond its local fame, had not Sir Richard Steele immortalized the Don
+and Don Saltero's in _The Tatler_, No. 34, June 28, 1700; wherein he
+tells us of the necessity of travelling to know the world by his
+journey for fresh air, no further than the village of Chelsea, of
+which he fancied that he could give an immediate description, from the
+five fields, where the robbers lie in wait, to the Coffee-house, where
+the literati sit in council. But he found, even in a place so near
+town as this, there were enormities and persons of eminence, whom he
+before knew nothing of.
+
+The Coffee-house was almost absorbed by the Museum. "When I came into
+the Coffee-house," says Steele, "I had not time to salute the company,
+before my eyes were diverted by ten thousand gimcracks round the room,
+and on the ceiling. When my first astonishment was over, comes to me a
+sage of thin and meagre countenance, which aspect made me doubt
+whether reading or fretting had made it so philosophic; but I very
+soon perceived him to be of that sort which the ancients call
+'gingivistee,' in our language 'tooth-drawers,' I immediately had a
+respect for the man; for these practical philosophers go upon a very
+practical hypothesis, not to cure, but to take away the part affected.
+My love of mankind made me very benevolent to Mr. Salter, for such is
+the name of this eminent barber and antiquary."
+
+The Don was famous for his punch and his skill on the fiddle; he also
+drew teeth, and wrote verses; he described his museum in several
+stanzas, one of which is--
+
+     "Monsters of all sorts are seen:
+       Strange things in nature as they grew so;
+     Some relicks of the Sheba Queen,
+       And fragments of the fam'd Bob Crusoe."
+
+Steele then plunges into a deep thought why barbers should go further
+in hitting the ridiculous than any other set of men; and maintains
+that Don Saltero is descended in a right line, not from John
+Tradescant, as he himself asserts, but from the memorable companion of
+the Knight of Mancha. Steele then certifies that all the worthy
+citizens who travel to see the Don's rarities, his double-barrelled
+pistols, targets, coats of mail, his sclopeta, and sword of Toledo,
+were left to his ancestor by the said Don Quixote, and by his ancestor
+to all his progeny down to Saltero. Though Steele thus goes far in
+favour of Don Saltero's great merit, he objects to his imposing
+several names (without his licence) on the collection he has made, to
+the abuse of the good people of England; one of which is particularly
+calculated to deceive religious persons, to the great scandal of the
+well-disposed, and may introduce heterodox opinions. [Among the
+curiosities presented by Admiral Munden was a coffin, containing the
+body or relics of a Spanish saint, who had wrought miracles.] "He
+shows you a straw hat, which," says Steele, "I know to be made by
+Madge Peskad, within three miles of Bedford; and tells you 'It is
+Pontius Pilate's wife's chambermaid's sister's hat.' To my knowledge
+of this very hat, it may be added that the covering of straw was never
+used among the Jews, since it was demanded of them to make bricks
+without it. Therefore, this is nothing but, under the specious
+pretence of learning and antiquities, to impose upon the world. There
+are other things which I cannot tolerate among his rarities, as, the
+china figure of the lady in the glass-case; the Italian engine, for
+the imprisonment of those who go abroad with it; both of which I
+hereby order to be taken down, or else he may expect to have his
+letters patent for making punch superseded, be debarred wearing his
+muff next winter, or ever coming to London without his wife."
+Babillard says that Salter had an old grey muff, and that, by wearing
+it up to his nose, he was distinguishable at the distance of a quarter
+of a mile. His wife was none of the best, being much addicted to
+scolding; and Salter, who liked his glass, if he could make a trip to
+London by himself, was in no haste to return.
+
+Don Saltero's proved very attractive as an exhibition, and drew crowds
+to the coffee-house. A catalogue was published, of which were printed
+more than forty editions. Smollett, the novelist, was among the
+donors. The catalogue, in 1760, comprehended the following
+rarities:--Tigers' tusks; the Pope's candle; the skeleton of a
+Guinea-pig; a fly-cap monkey; a piece of the true Cross; the Four
+Evangelists' heads cut on a cherry-stone; the King of Morocco's
+tobacco-pipe; Mary Queen of Scots' pincushion; Queen Elizabeth's
+prayer-book; a pair of Nun's stockings; Job's ears, which grew on a
+tree; a frog in a tobacco-stopper; and five hundred more odd relics!
+The Don had a rival, as appears by "A Catalogue of the Rarities to be
+seen at Adams's, at the Royal Swan, in Kingsland-road, leading from
+Shoreditch Church, 1756." Mr. Adams exhibited, for the entertainment
+of the curious, "Miss Jenny Cameron's shoes; Adam's eldest daughter's
+hat; the heart of the famous Bess Adams, that was hanged at Tyburn
+with Lawyer Carr, January 18, 1736-7; Sir Walter Raleigh's
+tobacco-pipe; Vicar of Bray's clogs; engine to shell green peas with;
+teeth that grew in a fish's belly; Black Jack's ribs; the very comb
+that Abraham combed his son Isaac and Jacob's head with; Wat Tyler's
+spurs; rope that cured Captain Lowry of the head-ach, ear-ach,
+tooth-ach, and belly-ach; Adam's key of the fore and back door of the
+Garden of Eden, &c., &c." These are only a few out of five hundred
+others equally marvellous.
+
+The Don, in 1723, issued a curious rhyming advertisement of his
+Curiosities, dated "Chelsea Knackatory," and in one line he calls it
+"My Museum Coffee-house."
+
+In Dr. Franklin's _Life_ we read:--"Some gentlemen from the country
+went by water to see the College, and Don Saltero's Curiosities, at
+Chelsea." They were shown in the coffee-room till August, 1799, when
+the collection was mostly sold or dispersed; a few gimcracks were left
+until about 1825, when we were informed on the premises, they were
+thrown away! The house is now a tavern, with the sign of "The Don
+Saltero's Coffee-house."
+
+The success of Don Saltero, in attracting visitors to his
+coffee-house, induced the proprietor of the Chelsea Bun-house to make
+a similar collection of rarities, to attract customers for the buns;
+and to some extent it was successful.
+
+
+SALOOP-HOUSES.
+
+What was, in our time, occasionally sold at stalls in the streets of
+London, with this name, was a decoction of sassafras; but it was
+originally made from Salep, the roots of _Orchis mascula_, a common
+plant of our meadows, the tubers of which, being cleaned and peeled,
+are lightly browned in an oven. Salep was much recommended in the last
+century by Dr. Percival, who stated that salep had the property of
+concealing the taste of salt water, which property it was thought
+might be turned to account in long sea-voyages. The root has been
+considered as containing the largest portion of nutritious matter in
+the smallest space; and when boiled, it was much used in this country
+before the introduction of tea and coffee, and their greatly reduced
+prices. Salep is now almost entirely disused in Great Britain; but we
+remember many saloop-stalls in our streets. We believe the last house
+in which it was sold, to have been Read's Coffee-house, in
+Fleet-street. The landlord of the noted Mug-house, in Salisbury-square,
+was one Read. (See CLUBS, p. 52.)
+
+
+THE SMYRNA COFFEE-HOUSE,
+
+In Pall Mall, was, in the reign of Queen Anne, famous for "that
+cluster of wise-heads" found sitting every evening, from the left side
+of the fire to the door. The following announcement in the _Tatler_,
+No. 78, is amusing: "This is to give notice to all ingenious gentlemen
+in and about the cities of London and Westminster, who have a mind to
+be instructed in the noble sciences of music, poetry, and politics,
+that they repair to the Smyrna Coffee-house, in Pall Mall, betwixt the
+hours of eight and ten at night, where they may be instructed gratis,
+with elaborate essays by word of mouth," on all or any of the
+above-mentioned arts. The disciples are to prepare their bodies with
+three dishes of bohea, and to purge their brains with two pinches of
+snuff. If any young student gives indication of parts, by listening
+attentively, or asking a pertinent question, one of the professors
+shall distinguish him, by taking snuff out of his box in the presence
+of the whole audience.
+
+"N.B. The seat of learning is now removed from the corner of the
+chimney, on the left hand towards the window, to the round table in
+the middle of the floor over against the fire; a revolution much
+lamented by the porters and chairmen, who were much edified through a
+pane of glass that remained broken all the last summer."
+
+Prior and Swift were much together at the Smyrna: we read of their
+sitting there two hours, "receiving acquaintance;" and one entry of
+Swift's tells us that he walked a little in the Park till Prior made
+him go with him to the Smyrna Coffee-house. It seemed to be the place
+to _talk politics_; but there is a more agreeable record of it in
+association with our "Poet of the Year," thus given by Cunningham: "In
+the printed copy of Thomson's proposals for publishing, by
+subscription, the Four Seasons, with a Hymn on their succession, the
+following note is appended:--'Subscriptions now taken in by the
+author, at the Smyrna Coffee-house, Pall Mall.'"[11] We find the
+Smyrna in a list of Coffee-Houses in 1810.
+
+FOOTNOTE:
+
+[11] The Dane Coffee-house, between the Upper and Lower Malls,
+Hammersmith, was frequented by Thomson, who wrote here a part of his
+_Winter_. On the Terrace resided, for many years, Arthur Murphy, and
+Loutherbourg, the painter. The latter died there, in 1812.
+
+
+ST. JAMES'S COFFEE-HOUSE.
+
+This was the famous Whig Coffee-house from the time of Queen Anne till
+late in the reign of George III. It was the last house but one on the
+south-west corner of St. James's-street, and is thus mentioned in No.
+1 of the _Tatler_: "Foreign and Domestic News you will have from St.
+James's Coffee-house." It occurs also in the passage quoted at page
+39, from the _Spectator_. The St. James's was much frequented by
+Swift; letters for him were left here. In his Journal to Stella he
+says: "I met Mr. Harley, and he asked me how long I had learnt the
+trick of writing to myself? He had seen your letter through the glass
+case at the Coffee-house, and would swear it was my hand." The letters
+from Stella were enclosed under cover to Addison.
+
+Elliot, who kept the coffee-house, was, on occasions, placed on a
+friendly footing with his guests. Swift, in his Journal to Stella,
+Nov. 19, 1710, records an odd instance of this familiarity: "This
+evening I christened our coffee-man Elliot's child; when the rogue had
+a most noble supper, and Steele and I sat amongst some scurvy company
+over a bowl of punch."
+
+In the first advertisement of Lady Mary Wortley Montagu's _Town
+Eclogues_, they are stated to have been read over at the St. James's
+Coffee-house, when they were considered by the general voice to be
+productions of a Lady of Quality. From the proximity of the house to
+St. James's Palace, it was much frequented by the Guards; and we read
+of its being no uncommon circumstance to see Dr. Joseph Warton at
+breakfast in the St. James's Coffee-house, surrounded by officers of
+the Guards, who listened with the utmost attention and pleasure to his
+remarks.
+
+To show the order and regularity observed at the St. James's, we may
+quote the following advertisement, appended to the _Tatler_, No.
+25:--"To prevent all mistakes that may happen among gentlemen of the
+other end of the town, who come but once a week to St. James's
+Coffee-house, either by miscalling the servants, or requiring such
+things from them as are not properly within their respective
+provinces; this is to give notice that Kidney, keeper of the
+book-debts of the outlying customers, and observer of those who go off
+without paying, having resigned that employment, is succeeded by John
+Sowton; to whose place of enterer of messages and first
+coffee-grinder, William Bird is promoted; and Samuel Burdock comes as
+shoe-cleaner in the room of the said Bird."
+
+But the St. James's is more memorable as the house where originated
+Goldsmith's celebrated poem, _Retaliation_. The poet belonged to a
+temporary association of men of talent, some of them members of the
+Club, who dined together occasionally here. At these dinners he was
+generally the last to arrive. On one occasion, when he was later than
+usual, a whim seized the company to write epitaphs on him as "the late
+Dr. Goldsmith," and several were thrown off in a playful vein. The
+only one extant was written by Garrick, and has been preserved, very
+probably, by its pungency:--
+
+     "Here lies poet Goldsmith, for shortness called Noll;
+     He wrote like an angel, but talked like poor Poll."
+
+Goldsmith did not relish the sarcasm, especially coming from such a
+quarter; and, by way of _retaliation_, he produced the famous poem, of
+which Cumberland has left a very interesting account, but which Mr.
+Forster, in his _Life of Goldsmith_, states to be "pure romance." The
+poem itself, however, with what was prefixed to it when published,
+sufficiently explains its own origin. What had formerly been abrupt
+and strange in Goldsmith's manners, had now so visibly increased, as
+to become matter of increased sport to such as were ignorant of its
+cause; and a proposition made at one of the dinners, when he was
+absent, to write a series of epitaphs upon him (his "country dialect"
+and his awkward person) was agreed to and put in practice by several
+of the guests. The active aggressors appear to have been Garrick,
+Doctor Bernard, Richard Burke, and Caleb Whitefoord. Cumberland says
+he, too, wrote an epitaph; but it was complimentary and grave, and
+hence the grateful return he received. Mr. Forster considers Garrick's
+epitaph to indicate the tone of all. This, with the rest, was read to
+Goldsmith when he next appeared at the St. James's Coffee-house, where
+Cumberland, however, says he never again met his friends. But "the
+Doctor was called on for Retaliation," says the friend who published
+the poem with that name, "and at their next meeting, produced the
+following, which I think adds one leaf to his immortal wreath."
+"_Retaliation_," says Sir Walter Scott, "had the effect of placing the
+author on a more equal footing with his Society than he had ever
+before assumed."
+
+Cumberland's account differs from the version formerly received, which
+intimates that the epitaphs were written before Goldsmith arrived:
+whereas the pun, "the late Dr. Goldsmith," appears to have suggested
+the writing of the epitaphs. In the _Retaliation_, Goldsmith has not
+spared the characters and failings of his associates, but has drawn
+them with satire, at once pungent and good-humoured. Garrick is
+smartly chastised; Burke, the Dinner-bell of the House of Commons, is
+not let off; and of all the more distinguished names of the Club,
+Thomson, Cumberland, and Reynolds alone escape the lash of the
+satirist. The former is not mentioned, and the two latter are even
+dismissed with unqualified and affectionate applause.
+
+Still, we quote Cumberland's account of the _Retaliation_, which is
+very amusing from the closely circumstantial manner in which the
+incidents are narrated, although they have so little relationship to
+truth:--"It was upon a proposal started by Edmund Burke, that a party
+of friends who had dined together at Sir Joshua Reynolds's and my
+house, should meet at the St. James's Coffee-house, which accordingly
+took place, and was repeated occasionally with much festivity and
+good fellowship. Dr. Bernard, Dean of Derry; a very amiable and old
+friend of mine, Dr. Douglas, since Bishop of Salisbury; Johnson, David
+Garrick, Sir Joshua Reynolds, Oliver Goldsmith, Edmund and Richard
+Burke, Hickey, with two or three others, constituted our party. At one
+of these meetings an idea was suggested of extemporary epitaphs upon
+the parties present: pen and ink were called for, and Garrick,
+off-hand, wrote an epitaph with a good deal of humour, upon poor
+Goldsmith, who was the first in jest, as he proved to be in reality,
+that we committed to the grave. The Dean also gave him an epitaph, and
+Sir Joshua illuminated the Dean's verses with a sketch of his bust in
+pen-and-ink, inimitably caricatured. Neither Johnson nor Burke wrote
+anything, and when I perceived that Oliver was rather sore, and seemed
+to watch me with that kind of attention which indicated his
+expectation of something in the same kind of burlesque with theirs; I
+thought it time to press the joke no further, and wrote a few couplets
+at a side-table, which, when I had finished, and was called upon by
+the company to exhibit, Goldsmith, with much agitation, besought me to
+spare him; and I was about to tear them, when Johnson wrested them out
+of my hand, and in a loud voice read them at the table. I have now
+lost recollection of them, and, in fact, they were little worth
+remembering; but as they were serious and complimentary, the effect
+upon Goldsmith was the more pleasing, for being so entirely
+unexpected. The concluding line, which was the only one I can call to
+mind, was:--
+
+     "'All mourn the poet, I lament the man.'
+
+This I recollect, because he repeated it several times, and seemed
+much gratified by it. At our next meeting he produced his epitaphs,
+as they stand in the little posthumous poem above mentioned, and this
+was the last time he ever enjoyed the company of his friends."[12]
+
+Mr. Cunningham tells us that the St. James's was closed about 1806;
+and a large pile of building looking down Pall Mall, erected on its
+site.
+
+The globular oil-lamp was first exhibited by its inventor, Michael
+Cole, at the door of the St. James's Coffee-house, in 1709; in the
+patent he obtained, it is mentioned as "a new kind of light."
+
+FOOTNOTE:
+
+[12] _Cumberland's Memoirs_, vol. i.
+
+
+THE BRITISH COFFEE-HOUSE,
+
+In Cockspur-street, "long a house of call for Scotchmen," has been
+fortunate in its landladies. In 1759, it was kept by the sister of
+Bishop Douglas, so well known for his works against Lauder and Bower,
+which may explain its Scottish fame. At another period it was kept by
+Mrs. Anderson, described in Mackenzie's _Life of Home_ as "a woman of
+uncommon talents, and the most agreeable conversation."[13]
+
+The British figures in a political faction of 1750, at which date
+Walpole writes to Sir Horace Mann: "The Argyll carried all the Scotch
+against the turnpike; they were willing to be carried, for the Duke of
+Bedford, in case it should have come into the Lords, had writ to the
+sixteen Peers, to solicit their votes; but with so little difference,
+that he enclosed all the letters under one cover directed to the
+British Coffee-house."
+
+FOOTNOTE:
+
+[13] _Cunningham's Walpole_, vol. ii. p. 196, note.
+
+
+WILL'S COFFEE-HOUSE.[14]
+
+Will's, the predecessor of Button's, and even more celebrated than
+that Coffee-house, was kept by William Urwin, and was the house on the
+north side of Russell-street at the end of Bow-street--the corner
+house--now occupied as a ham and beef shop, and numbered twenty-three.
+"It was Dryden who made Will's Coffee-house the great resort of the
+wits of his time." (_Pope_ and _Spence_). The room in which the poet
+was accustomed to sit was on the first floor; and his place was the
+place of honour by fire-side in the winter; and at the corner of the
+balcony, looking over the street, in fine weather; he called the two
+places his winter and his summer seat. This was called the dining-room
+floor in the last century. The company did not sit in boxes, as
+subsequently, but at various tables which were dispersed through the
+room. Smoking was permitted in the public room: it was then so much in
+vogue that it does not seem to have been considered a nuisance. Here,
+as in other similar places of meeting, the visitors divided themselves
+into parties; and we are told by Ward, that the young beaux and wits,
+who seldom approached the principal table, thought it a great honour
+to have a pinch out of Dryden's snuff-box.
+
+Dean Lockier has left this life-like picture of his interview with the
+presiding genius at Will's:--"I was about seventeen when I first came
+up to town," says the Dean, "an odd-looking boy, with short rough
+hair, and that sort of awkwardness which one always brings up at first
+out of the country with one. However, in spite of my bashfulness and
+appearance, I used, now and then, to thrust myself into Will's, to
+have the pleasure of seeing the most celebrated wits of that time, who
+then resorted thither. The second time that ever I was there, Mr.
+Dryden was speaking of his own things, as he frequently did,
+especially of such as had been lately published. 'If anything of mine
+is good,' says he, ''tis _Mac-Flecno_; and I value myself the more
+upon it, because it is the first piece of ridicule written in
+heroics.' On hearing this I plucked up my spirit so far as to say, in
+a voice but just loud enough to be heard, 'that _Mac-Flecno_ was a
+very fine poem, but that I had not imagined it to be the first that
+was ever writ that way.' On this, Dryden turned short upon me, as
+surprised at my interposing; asked me how long 'I had been a dealer in
+poetry;' and added, with a smile, 'Pray, Sir, what is it that you did
+imagine to have been writ so before?'--I named Boileau's _Lutrin_, and
+Tassoni's _Secchia Rapita_, which I had read, and knew Dryden had
+borrowed some strokes from each. ''Tis true,' said Dryden, 'I had
+forgot them.' A little after, Dryden went out, and in going, spoke to
+me again, and desired me to come and see him the next day. I was
+highly delighted with the invitation; went to see him accordingly; and
+was well acquainted with him after, as long as he lived."
+
+Will's Coffee-house was the open market for libels and lampoons, the
+latter named from the established burden formerly sung to them:--
+
+     "Lampone, lampone, camerada lampone."
+
+There was a drunken fellow, named Julian, who was a characterless
+frequenter of Will's, and Sir Walter Scott has given this account of
+him and his vocation:--
+
+"Upon the general practice of writing lampoons, and the necessity of
+finding some mode of dispersing them, which should diffuse the scandal
+widely while the authors remained concealed, was founded the
+self-erected office of Julian, Secretary, as he calls himself, to the
+Muses. This person attended Will's, the Wits' Coffee-house, as it was
+called; and dispersed among the crowds who frequented that place of
+gay resort copies of the lampoons which had been privately
+communicated to him by their authors. 'He is described,' says Mr.
+Malone, 'as a very drunken fellow, and at one time was confined for a
+liable.' Several satires were written, in the form of addresses to him
+as well as the following. There is one among the _State Poems_
+beginning--
+
+     "'Julian, in verse, to ease thy wants I write,
+     Not moved by envy, malice, or by spite,
+     Or pleased with the empty names of wit and sense,
+     But merely to supply thy want of pence:
+     This did inspire my muse, when out at heel,
+     She saw her needy secretary reel;
+     Grieved that a man, so useful to the age,
+     Should foot it in so mean an equipage;
+     A crying scandal that the fees of sense
+     Should not be able to support the expense
+     Of a poor scribe, who never thought of wants,
+     When able to procure a cup of Nantz.'
+
+"Another, called a 'Consoling Epistle to Julian,' is said to have been
+written by the Duke of Buckingham.
+
+"From a passage in one of the _Letters from the Dead to the Living_,
+we learn, that after Julian's death, and the madness of his successor,
+called Summerton, lampoon felt a sensible decay; and there was no more
+that brisk spirit of verse, that used to watch the follies and vices
+of the men and women of figure, that they could not start new ones
+faster than lampoons exposed them."
+
+How these lampoons were concocted we gather from Bays, in the _Hind
+and the Panther transversed_:--"'Tis a trifle hardly worth owning; I
+was 'tother day at Will's, throwing out something of that nature; and,
+i' gad, the hint was taken, and out came that picture; indeed, the
+poor fellow was so civil as to present me with a dozen of 'em for my
+friends; I think I have here one in my pocket.... Ay, ay, I can do it
+if I list, tho' you must not think I have been so dull as to mind
+these things myself; but 'tis the advantage of our Coffee-house, that
+from their talk, one may write a very good polemical discourse,
+without ever troubling one's head with the books of controversy."
+
+Tom Brown describes "a Wit and a Beau set up with little or no
+expense. A pair of red stockings and a sword-knot set up one, and
+peeping once a day in at Will's, and two or three second-hand sayings,
+the other."
+
+Pepys, one night, going to fetch home his wife, stopped in Covent
+Garden, at the Great Coffee-house there, as he called Will's, where he
+never was before: "Where," he adds, "Dryden, the poet (I knew at
+Cambridge), and all the Wits of the town, and Harris the player, and
+Mr. Hoole of our College. And had I had time then, or could at other
+times, it will be good coming thither, for there, I perceive, is very
+witty and pleasant discourse. But I could not tarry; and, as it was
+late, they were all ready to go away."
+
+Addison passed each day alike, and much in the manner that Dryden did.
+Dryden employed his mornings in writing, dined _en famille_, and then
+went to Will's, "only he came home earlier o' nights."
+
+Pope, when very young, was impressed with such veneration for Dryden,
+that he persuaded some friends to take him to Will's Coffee-house, and
+was delighted that he could say that he had seen Dryden. Sir Charles
+Wogan, too, brought up Pope from the Forest of Windsor, to dress _à la
+mode_, and introduce at Will's Coffee-house. Pope afterwards described
+Dryden as "a plump man with a down look, and not very conversible;"
+and Cibber could tell no more "but that he remembered him a decent old
+man, arbitor of critical disputes at Will's." Prior sings of--
+
+           "the younger Stiles,
+     Whom Dryden pedagogues at Will's!"
+
+Most of the hostile criticisms on his Plays, which Dryden has noticed
+in his various Prefaces, appear to have been made at his favourite
+haunt, Will's Coffee-house.
+
+Dryden is generally said to have been returning from Will's to his
+house in Gerard-street, when he was cudgelled in Rose-street by three
+persons hired for the purpose by Wilmot, Earl of Rochester, in the
+winter of 1679. The assault, or "the Rose-alley Ambuscade," certainly
+took place; but it is not so certain that Dryden was on his way from
+Will's, and he then lived in Long Acre, not Gerard-street.
+
+It is worthy of remark that Swift was accustomed to speak
+disparagingly of Will's, as in his _Rhapsody on Poetry_:--
+
+     "Be sure at Will's the following day
+     Lie snug, and hear what critics say;
+     And if you find the general vogue
+     Pronounces you a stupid rogue,
+     Damns all your thoughts as low and little;
+     Sit still, and swallow down your spittle."
+
+Swift thought little of the frequenters of Will's: he used to say,
+"the worst conversation he ever heard in his life was at Will's
+Coffee-house, where the wits (as they were called) used formerly to
+assemble; that is to say, five or six men, who had writ plays or at
+least prologues, or had a share in a miscellany, came thither, and
+entertained one another with their trifling composures, in so
+important an air as if they had been the noblest efforts of human
+nature, or that the fate of kingdoms depended on them."
+
+In the first number of the _Tatler_, Poetry is promised under the
+article of Will's Coffee-house. The place, however, changed after
+Dryden's time: "you used to see songs, epigrams, and satires in the
+hands of every man you met; you have now only a pack of cards; and
+instead of the cavils about the turn of the expression, the elegance
+of the style, and the like, the learned now dispute only about the
+truth of the game." "In old times, we used to sit upon a play here,
+after it was acted, but now the entertainment's turned another way."
+
+The _Spectator_ is sometimes seen "thrusting his head into a round of
+politicians at Will's, and listening with great attention to the
+narratives that are made in these little circular audiences." Then, we
+have as an instance of no one member of human society but that would
+have some little pretension for some degree in it, "like him who came
+to Will's Coffee-house upon the merit of having writ a posie of a
+ring." And, "Robin, the porter who waits at Will's, is the best man in
+town for carrying a billet: the fellow has a thin body, swift step,
+demure looks, sufficient sense, and knows the town."[15]
+
+After Dryden's death in 1701, Will's continued for about ten years to
+be still the Wits' Coffee-house, as we see by Ned Ward's account, and
+by that in the _Journey through England_ in 1722.
+
+Pope entered with keen relish into society, and courted the
+correspondence of the town wits and coffee-house critics. Among his
+early friends was Mr. Henry Cromwell, one of the _cousinry_ of the
+Protector's family: he was a bachelor, and spent most of his time in
+London; he had some pretensions to scholarship and literature, having
+translated several of Ovid's Elegies, for Tonson's Miscellany. With
+Wycherley, Gay, Dennis, the popular actors and actresses of the day,
+and with all the frequenters of Will's, Cromwell was familiar. He had
+done more than take a pinch out of Dryden's snuff-box, which was a
+point of high ambition and honour at Will's; he had quarrelled with
+him about a frail poetess, Mrs. Elizabeth Thomas, whom Dryden had
+christened Corinna, and who was also known as Sappho. Gay
+characterized this literary and eccentric beau as
+
+     "Honest, hatless Cromwell, with red breeches;"
+
+it being his custom to carry his hat in his hand when walking with
+ladies. What with ladies and literature, rehearsals and reviews, and
+critical attention to the quality of his coffee and Brazil snuff,
+Henry Cromwell's time was fully occupied in town. Cromwell was a
+dangerous acquaintance for Pope at the age of sixteen or seventeen,
+but he was a very agreeable one. Most of Pope's letters to his friend
+are addressed to him at the Blue Ball, in Great Wild-street, near
+Drury-lane; and others to "Widow Hambledon's Coffee-house at the end
+of Princes-street, near Drury-lane, London." Cromwell made one visit
+to Binfield; on his return to London, Pope wrote to him, "referring to
+the ladies in particular," and to his favourite coffee:
+
+     "As long as Mocha's happy tree shall grow,
+     While berries crackle, or while mills shall go;
+     While smoking streams from silver spouts shall glide
+     Or China's earth receive the sable tide,
+     While Coffee shall to British nymphs be dear,
+     While fragrant steams the bended head shall cheer,
+     Or grateful bitters shall delight the taste,
+     So long her honours, name, and praise shall last."
+
+Even at this early period Pope seems to have relied for relief from
+headache to the steam of coffee, which he inhaled for this purpose
+throughout the whole of his life.[16]
+
+The Taverns and Coffee-houses supplied the place of the Clubs we have
+since seen established. Although no exclusive subscription belonged to
+any of these, we find by the account which Colley Cibber gives of his
+first visit to Will's, in Covent Garden, that it required an
+introduction to this Society not to be considered as an impertinent
+intruder. There the veteran Dryden had long presided over all the
+acknowledged wits and poets of the day, and those who had the
+pretension to be reckoned among them. The politicians assembled at the
+St. James's Coffee-house, from whence all the articles of political
+news in the first _Tatlers_ are dated. The learned frequented the
+Grecian Coffee-house in Devereux-court. Locket's, in Gerard-street,
+Soho, and Pontac's, were the fashionable taverns where the young and
+gay met to dine: and White's and other chocolate houses seem to have
+been the resort of the same company in the morning. Three o'clock, or
+at latest four, was the dining-hour of the most fashionable persons in
+London, for in the country no such late hours had been adopted. In
+London, therefore, soon after six, the men began to assemble at the
+coffee-house they frequented if they were not setting in for hard
+drinking, which seems to have been much less indulged in private
+houses than in taverns. The ladies made visits to one another, which
+it must be owned was a much less waste of time when considered as an
+amusement for the evening, than now, as being a morning occupation.
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[14] Will's Coffee-house first had the title of the Red Cow, then of
+the Rose, and, we believe, is the same house alluded to in the
+pleasant story in the second number of the _Tatler_:--
+
+     "Supper and friends expect we at the Rose."
+
+The Rose, however, was a common sign for houses of public
+entertainment.
+
+[15] _The Spectator_, No. 398.
+
+[16] Carruthers: Life of Pope.
+
+
+BUTTON'S COFFEE-HOUSE.
+
+Will's was the great resort for the wits of Dryden's time, after whose
+death it was transferred to Button's. Pope describes the houses as
+"opposite each other, in Russell-street, Covent Garden," where Addison
+established Daniel Button, in a new house, about 1712; and his fame,
+after the production of _Cato_, drew many of the Whigs thither. Button
+had been servant to the Countess of Warwick. The house is more
+correctly described as "over against Tom's, near the middle of the
+south side of the street."
+
+Addison was the great patron of Button's; but it is said that when he
+suffered any vexation from his Countess, he withdrew the company from
+Button's house. His chief companions, before he married Lady Warwick,
+were Steele, Budgell, Philips, Carey, Davenant, and Colonel Brett. He
+used to breakfast with one or other of them in St. James's-place, dine
+at taverns with them, then to Button's, and then to some tavern again,
+for supper in the evening; and this was the usual round of his life,
+as Pope tells us, in Spence's _Anecdotes_; where Pope also says:
+"Addison usually studied all the morning, then met his party at
+Button's, dined there, and stayed five or six hours; and sometimes far
+into the night. I was of the company for about a year, but found it
+too much for me: it hurt my health, and so I quitted it." Again:
+"There had been a coldness between me and Mr. Addison for some time,
+and we had not been in company together for a good while anywhere but
+at Button's Coffee-house, where I used to see him almost every day."
+
+Here Pope is reported to have said of Patrick, the lexicographer, that
+"a dictionary-maker might know the meaning of one word, but not of two
+put together."
+
+Button's was the receiving-house for contributions to _The Guardian_,
+for which purpose was put up a lion's head letter-box, in imitation of
+the celebrated lion at Venice, as humorously announced. Thus:--
+
+"N.B.--Mr. Ironside has, within five weeks last past, muzzled three
+lions, gorged five, and killed one. On Monday next the skin of the
+dead one will be hung up, _in terrorem_, at Button's Coffee-house,
+over against Tom's in Covent Garden."[17]
+
+     "Button's Coffee-house,--
+
+"Mr. Ironside, I have observed that this day you make mention of
+Will's Coffee-house, as a place where people are too polite to hold a
+man in discourse by the button. Everybody knows your honour frequents
+this house, therefore they will take an advantage against me, and say
+if my company was as civil as that at Will's. You would say so.
+Therefore pray your honour do not be afraid of doing me justice,
+because people would think it may be a conceit below you on this
+occasion to name the name of your humble servant, Daniel Button.--The
+young poets are in the back room, and take their places as you
+directed."[18]
+
+"I intend to publish once every week the roarings of the Lion, and
+hope to make him roar so loud as to be heard over all the British
+nation.
+
+"I have, I know not how, been drawn into tattle of myself, _more
+majorum_, almost the length of a whole _Guardian_. I shall therefore
+fill up the remaining part of it with what still relates to my own
+person, and my correspondents. Now I would have them all know that on
+the 20th instant it is my intention to erect a Lion's Head, in
+imitation of those I have described in Venice, through which all the
+private commonwealth is said to pass. This head is to open a most wide
+and voracious mouth, which shall take in such letters and papers as
+are conveyed to me by my correspondents, it being my resolution to
+have a particular regard to all such matters as come to my hands
+through the mouth of the Lion. There will be under it a box, of which
+the key will be in my own custody, to receive such papers as are
+dropped into it. Whatever the Lion swallows I shall digest for the use
+of the publick. This head requires some time to finish, the workmen
+being resolved to give it several masterly touches, and to represent
+it as ravenous as possible. It will be set up in Button's
+Coffee-house, in Covent Garden, who is directed to shew the way to the
+Lion's Head, and to instruct any young author how to convey his works
+into the mouth of it with safety and secrecy."[19]
+
+"I think myself obliged to acquaint the publick, that the Lion's Head,
+of which I advertised them about a fortnight ago, is now erected at
+Button's Coffee-house, in Russell-street, Covent Garden, where it
+opens its mouth at all hours for the reception of such intelligence as
+shall be thrown into it. It is reckoned an excellent piece of
+workmanship, and was designed by a great hand in imitation of the
+antique Egyptian lion, the face of it being compounded out of that of
+a lion and a wizard. The features are strong and well furrowed. The
+whiskers are admired by all that have seen them. It is planted on the
+western side of the Coffee-house, holding its paws under the chin,
+upon a box, which contains everything that he swallows. He is, indeed,
+a proper emblem of knowledge and action, being all head and paws."[20]
+
+"Being obliged, at present, to attend a particular affair of my own, I
+do empower my printer to look into the arcana of the lion, and select
+out of them such as may be of publick utility; and Mr. Button is
+hereby authorized and commanded to give my said printer free ingress
+and egress to the lion, without any hindrance, lest, or molestation
+whatsoever, until such time as he shall receive orders to the
+contrary. And, for so doing, this shall be his warrant."[21]
+
+"My Lion, whose jaws are at all times open to intelligence, informs
+me that there are a few enormous weapons still in being; but that they
+are to be met with only in gaming-houses and some of the obscure
+retreats of lovers, in and about Drury-lane and Covent Garden."[22]
+
+This memorable Lion's Head was tolerably well carved: through the
+mouth the letters were dropped into a till at Button's; and beneath
+were inscribed these two lines from Martial:--
+
+     "Cervantur magnis isti Cervicibus ungues:
+       Non nisi delictâ pascitur ille ferâ."
+
+The head was designed by Hogarth, and is etched in Ireland's
+_Illustrations_. Lord Chesterfield is said to have once offered for
+the Head fifty guineas. From Button's it was removed to the
+Shakspeare's Head Tavern, under the Piazza, kept by a person named
+Tomkyns; and in 1751, was, for a short time, placed in the Bedford
+Coffee-house immediately adjoining the Shakspeare, and there employed
+as a letter-box by Dr. John Hill, for his _Inspector_. In 1769,
+Tomkyns was succeeded by his waiter, Campbell, as proprietor of the
+tavern and lion's head, and by him the latter was retained until Nov.
+8, 1804, when it was purchased by Mr. Charles Richardson, of
+Richardson's Hotel, for £17. 10_s._, who also possessed the original
+sign of the Shakspeare's Head. After Mr. Richardson's death in 1827,
+the Lion's Head devolved to his son, of whom it was bought by the Duke
+of Bedford, and deposited at Woburn Abbey, where it still remains.
+
+Pope was subjected to much annoyance and insult at Button's. Sir
+Samuel Garth wrote to Gay, that everybody was pleased with Pope's
+Translation, "but a few at Button's;" to which Gay adds, to Pope, "I
+am confirmed that at Button's your character is made very free with,
+as to morals, etc."
+
+Cibber, in a letter to Pope, says:--"When you used to pass your hours
+at Button's, you were even there remarkable for your satirical itch of
+provocation; scarce was there a gentleman of any pretension to wit,
+whom your unguarded temper had not fallen upon in some biting epigram,
+among which you once caught a pastoral Tartar, whose resentment, that
+your punishment might be proportionate to the smart of your poetry,
+had stuck up a birchen rod in the room, to be ready whenever you might
+come within reach of it; and at this rate you writ and rallied and
+writ on, till you rhymed yourself quite out of the coffee-house." The
+"pastoral Tartar" was Ambrose Philips, who, says Johnson, "hung up a
+rod at Button's, with which he threatened to chastise Pope."
+
+Pope, in a letter to Craggs, thus explains the affair:--"Mr. Philips
+did express himself with much indignation against me one evening at
+Button's Coffee-house, (as I was told,) saying that I was entered into
+a cabal with Dean Swift and others, to write against the Whig
+interest, and in particular to undermine his own reputation and that
+of his friends, Steele and Addison; but Mr. Philips never opened his
+lips to my face, on this or any like occasion, though I was almost
+every night in the same room with him, nor ever offered me any
+indecorum. Mr. Addison came to me a night or two after Philips had
+talked in this idle manner, and assured me of his disbelief of what
+had been said, of the friendship we should always maintain, and
+desired I would say nothing further of it. My Lord Halifax did me the
+honour to stir in this matter, by speaking to several people to
+obviate a false aspersion, which might have done me no small prejudice
+with one party. However, Philips did all he could secretly to continue
+the report with the Hanover Club, and kept in his hands the
+subscriptions paid for me to him, as secretary to that Club. The heads
+of it have since given him to understand, that they take it ill; but
+(upon the terms I ought to be with such a man,) I would not ask him
+for this money, but commissioned one of the players, his equals, to
+receive it. This is the whole matter; but as to the secret grounds of
+this malignity, they will make a very pleasant history when we meet."
+
+Another account says that the rod was hung up at the bar of Button's,
+and that Pope avoided it by remaining at home--"his usual custom."
+Philips was known for his courage and superior dexterity with the
+sword: he afterwards became justice of the peace, and used to mention
+Pope, whenever he could get a man in authority to listen to him, as an
+enemy to the Government.
+
+At Button's the leading company, particularly Addison and Steele, met
+in large flowing flaxen wigs. Sir Godfrey Kneller, too, was a
+frequenter.
+
+The master died in 1731, when in the _Daily Advertiser_, Oct. 5,
+appeared the following:--"On Sunday morning, died, after three days'
+illness, Mr. Button, who formerly kept Button's Coffee-house, in
+Russell-street, Covent Garden; a very noted house for wits, being the
+place where the Lyon produced the famous _Tatlers_ and _Spectators_,
+written by the late Mr. Secretary Addison and Sir Richard Steele,
+Knt., which works will transmit their names with honour to posterity."
+Mr. Cunningham found in the vestry-books of St. Paul's, Covent Garden:
+"1719, April 16. Received of Mr. Daniel Button, for two places in the
+pew No. 18, on the south side of the north Isle,--2_l._ 2_s._" J. T.
+Smith states that a few years after Button, the Coffee-house declined,
+and Button's name appeared in the books of St. Paul's, as receiving an
+allowance from the parish.
+
+Button's continued in vogue until Addison's death and Steele's
+retirement into Wales, after which the house was deserted; the
+coffee-drinkers went to the Bedford Coffee-house, the dinner-parties
+to the Shakspeare.
+
+Among other wits who frequented Button's were Swift, Arbuthnot,
+Savage, Budgell, Martin Folkes, and Drs. Garth and Armstrong. In 1720,
+Hogarth mentions "four drawings in Indian ink" of the characters at
+Button's Coffee-house. In these were sketches of Arbuthnot, Addison,
+Pope, (as it is conjectured,) and a certain Count Viviani, identified
+years afterwards by Horace Walpole, when the drawings came under his
+notice. They subsequently came into Ireland's possession.[23]
+
+Jemmy Maclaine, or M'Clean, the fashionable highwayman, was a frequent
+visitor at Button's. Mr. John Taylor, of the _Sun_ newspaper,
+describes Maclaine as a tall, showy, good-looking man. A Mr. Donaldson
+told Taylor that, observing Maclaine paid particular attention to the
+bar-maid of the Coffee-house, the daughter of the landlord, he gave a
+hint to the father of Maclaine's dubious character. The father
+cautioned the daughter against the highwayman's addresses, and
+imprudently told her by whose advice he put her on her guard; she as
+imprudently told Maclaine. The next time Donaldson visited the
+Coffee-room, and was sitting in one of the boxes, Maclaine entered,
+and in a loud tone said, "Mr. Donaldson, I wish to _spake_ to you in a
+private room." Mr. D. being unarmed, and naturally afraid of being
+alone with such a man, said, in answer, that as nothing could pass
+between them that he did not wish the whole world to know, he begged
+leave to decline the invitation. "Very well," said Maclaine, as he
+left the room, "we shall meet again." A day or two after, as Mr.
+Donaldson was walking near Richmond, in the evening, he saw Maclaine
+on horseback; but, fortunately, at that moment, a gentleman's carriage
+appeared in view, when Maclaine immediately turned his horse towards
+the carriage, and Donaldson hurried into the protection of Richmond as
+fast as he could. But for the appearance of the carriage, which
+presented better prey, it is probable that Maclaine would have shot
+Mr. Donaldson immediately.
+
+Maclaine's father was an Irish Dean; his brother was a Calvinist
+minister in great esteem at the Hague. Maclaine himself has been a
+grocer in Welbeck-street, but losing a wife that he loved extremely,
+and by whom he had one little girl, he quitted his business with two
+hundred pounds in his pocket, which he soon spent, and then took to
+the road with only one companion, Plunket, a journeyman apothecary.
+
+Maclaine was taken in the autumn of 1750, by selling a laced waistcoat
+to a pawnbroker in Monmouth-street, who happened to carry it to the
+very man who had just sold the lace. Maclaine impeached his companion,
+Plunket, but he was not taken. The former got into verse: Gray, in his
+_Long Story_, sings:
+
+     "A sudden fit of ague shook him;
+     He stood as mute as poor M'Lean."
+
+Button's subsequently became a private house, and here Mrs. Inchbald
+lodged, probably, after the death of her sister, for whose support she
+practised such noble and generous self-denial. Mrs. Inchbald's income
+was now 172_l._ a year, and we are told that she now went to reside in
+a boarding-house, where she enjoyed more of the comforts of life.
+Phillips, the publisher, offered her a thousand pounds for her
+Memoirs, which she declined. She died in a boarding-house at
+Kensington, on the 1st of August, 1821; leaving about 6000_l._
+judiciously divided amongst her relatives. Her simple and parsimonious
+habits were very strange. "Last Thursday," she writes, "I finished
+scouring my bedroom, while a coach with a coronet and two footmen
+waited at my door to take me an airing."
+
+"One of the most agreeable memories connected with Button's," says
+Leigh Hunt, "is that of Garth, a man whom, for the sprightliness and
+generosity of his nature, it is a pleasure to name. He was one of the
+most amiable and intelligent of a most amiable and intelligent class
+of men--the physicians."
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[17] _The Guardian_, No. 71.
+
+[18] _The Guardian_, No. 85.
+
+[19] _The Guardian_, No. 93.
+
+[20] _The Guardian_, No. 114.
+
+[21] _The Guardian_, No. 142.
+
+[22] _The Guardian_, No. 171.
+
+[23] From Mr. Sala's vivid "William Hogarth;" Cornhill Magazine, vol.
+i. p. 428.
+
+
+DEAN SWIFT AT BUTTON'S.
+
+It was just after Queen Anne's accession that Swift made acquaintance
+with the leaders of the wits at Button's. Ambrose Philips refers to
+him as the strange clergyman whom the frequenters of the Coffee-house
+had observed for some days. He knew no one, no one knew him. He would
+lay his hat down on a table, and walk up and down at a brisk pace for
+half an hour without speaking to any one, or seeming to pay attention
+to anything that was going forward. Then he would snatch up his hat,
+pay his money at the bar, and walk off, without having opened his
+lips. The frequenters of the room had christened him "the mad parson."
+One evening, as Mr. Addison and the rest were observing him, they saw
+him cast his eyes several times upon a gentleman in boots, who seemed
+to be just come out of the country. At last, Swift advanced towards
+this bucolic gentleman, as if intending to address him. They were all
+eager to hear what the dumb parson had to say, and immediately quitted
+their seats to get near him. Swift went up to the country gentleman,
+and in a very abrupt manner, without any previous salute, asked him,
+"Pray, Sir, do you know any good weather in the world?" After staring
+a little at the singularity of Swift's manner and the oddity of the
+question, the gentleman answered, "Yes, Sir, I thank God I remember a
+great deal of good weather in my time."--"That is more," replied
+Swift, "than I can say; I never remember any weather that was not too
+hot or too cold, too wet or too dry; but, however God Almighty
+contrives it, at the end of the year 'tis all very well."
+
+Sir Walter Scott gives, upon the authority of Dr. Wall, of Worcester,
+who had it from Dr. Arbuthnot himself, the following anecdote--less
+coarse than the version generally told. Swift was seated by the fire
+at Button's: there was sand on the floor of the coffee-room, and
+Arbuthnot, with a design to play upon this original figure, offered
+him a letter, which he had been just addressing, saying at the same
+time, "There--sand that."--"I have got no sand," answered Swift, "but
+I can help you to a little _gravel_." This he said so significantly,
+that Arbuthnot hastily snatched back his letter, to save it from the
+fate of the capital of Lilliput.
+
+
+TOM'S COFFEE-HOUSE,
+
+In Birchin-lane, Cornhill, though in the main a mercantile resort,
+acquired some celebrity from its having been frequented by Garrick,
+who, to keep up an interest in the City, appeared here about twice in
+a winter at 'Change time, when it was the rendezvous of young
+merchants. Hawkins says: "After all that has been said of Mr. Garrick,
+envy must own that he owed his celebrity to his merit; and yet, of
+that himself seemed so diffident, that he practised sundry little but
+innocent arts, to insure the favour of the public:" yet, he did more.
+When a rising actor complained to Mrs. Garrick that the newspapers
+abused him, the widow replied, "You should write your own criticisms;
+David always did."
+
+One evening, Murphy was at Tom's, when Colley Cibber was playing at
+whist, with an old general for his partner. As the cards were dealt to
+him, he took up every one in turn, and expressed his disappointment at
+each indifferent one. In the progress of the game he did not follow
+suit, and his partner said, "What! have you not a spade, Mr. Cibber?"
+The latter, looking at his cards, answered, "Oh yes, a thousand;"
+which drew a very peevish comment from the general. On which, Cibber,
+who was shockingly addicted to swearing, replied, "Don't be angry, for
+---- I can play ten times worse if I like."
+
+
+THE BEDFORD COFFEE-HOUSE, IN COVENT GARDEN.
+
+This celebrated resort once attracted so much attention as to have
+published, "Memoirs of the Bedford Coffee-house," two editions, 1751
+and 1763. It stood "under the Piazza, in Covent Garden," in the
+north-west corner, near the entrance to the theatre, and has long
+ceased to exist.
+
+In _The Connoisseur_, No. 1, 1754, we are assured that "this
+Coffee-house is every night crowded with men of parts. Almost every
+one you meet is a polite scholar and a wit. Jokes and bon-mots are
+echoed from box to box: every branch of literature is critically
+examined, and the merit of every production of the press, or
+performance of the theatres, weighed and determined."
+
+And in the above-named _Memoirs_, we read that "this spot has been
+signalized for many years as the emporium of wit, the seat of
+criticism, and the standard of taste.--Names of those who frequented
+the house:--Foote, Mr. Fielding, Mr. Woodward, Mr. Leone, Mr. Murphy,
+Mopsy, Dr. Arne. Dr. Arne was the only man in a suit of velvet in the
+dog-days."
+
+Stacie kept the Bedford when John and Henry Fielding, Hogarth,
+Churchill, Woodward, Lloyd, Dr. Goldsmith, and many others met there
+and held a gossiping shilling rubber club. Henry Fielding was a very
+merry fellow.
+
+The _Inspector_ appears to have given rise to this reign of the
+Bedford, when there was placed here the Lion from Button's, which
+proved so serviceable to Steele, and once more fixed the dominion of
+wit in Covent Garden.
+
+The reign of wit and pleasantry did not, however, cease at the Bedford
+at the demise of the _Inspector_. A race of punsters next succeeded. A
+particular box was allotted to this occasion, out of the hearing of
+the lady at the bar, that the _double entendres_, which were sometimes
+very indelicate, might not offend her.
+
+The Bedford was beset with scandalous nuisances, of which the
+following letter, from Arthur Murphy to Garrick, April 10, 1769,
+presents a pretty picture:
+
+"Tiger Roach (who used to bully at the Bedford Coffee-house because
+his name was Roach) is set up by Wilkes's friends to burlesque Luttrel
+and his pretensions. I own I do not know a more ridiculous
+circumstance than to be a joint candidate with the Tiger. O'Brien used
+to take him off very pleasantly, and perhaps you may, from his
+representation, have some idea of this important wight. He used to sit
+with a half-starved look, a black patch upon his cheek, pale with the
+idea of murder, or with rank cowardice, a quivering lip, and a
+downcast eye. In that manner he used to sit at a table all alone, and
+his soliloquy, interrupted now and then with faint attempts to throw
+off a little saliva, was to the following effect:--'Hut! hut! a
+mercer's 'prentice with a bag-wig;--d--n my s--l, if I would not
+skiver a dozen of them like larks! Hut! hut! I don't understand such
+airs!--I'd cudgel him back, breast, and belly, for three skips of a
+louse!--How do you do, Pat! Hut! hut! God's blood--Larry, I'm glad to
+see you;--'Prentices! a fine thing indeed!--Hut! hut! How do you,
+Dominick!--D--n my s--l, what's here to do!' These were the
+meditations of this agreeable youth. From one of these reveries he
+started up one night, when I was there, called a Mr. Bagnell out of
+the room, and most heroically stabbed him in the dark, the other
+having no weapon to defend himself with. In this career the Tiger
+persisted, till at length a Mr. Lennard brandished a whip over his
+head, and stood in a menacing attitude, commanding him to ask pardon
+directly. The Tiger shrank from the danger, and with a faint voice
+pronounced--'Hut! what signifies it between you and me? Well! well! I
+ask your pardon,' 'Speak louder, sir; I don't hear a word you say.'
+And indeed he was so very tall, that it seemed as if the sound, sent
+feebly from below, could not ascend to such a height. This is the hero
+who is to figure at Brentford."
+
+Foote's favourite Coffee-house was the Bedford. He was also a constant
+frequenter of Tom's, and took a lead in the Club held there, and
+already described.[24]
+
+Dr. Barrowby, the well-known newsmonger of the Bedford, and the
+satirical critic of the day, has left this whole-length sketch of
+Foote:--"One evening (he says), he saw a young man extravagantly
+dressed out in a frock suit of green and silver lace, bag-wig, sword,
+bouquet, and point-ruffles, enter the room (at the Bedford), and
+immediately join the critical circle at the upper end. Nobody
+recognised him; but such was the ease of his bearing, and the point of
+humour and remark with which he at once took up the conversation, that
+his presence seemed to disconcert no one, and a sort of pleased buzz
+of 'who is he?' was still going round the room unanswered, when a
+handsome carriage stopped at the door; he rose, and quitted the room,
+and the servants announced that his name was Foote, that he was a
+young gentleman of family and fortune, a student of the Inner Temple,
+and that the carriage had called for him on its way to the assembly of
+a lady of fashion." Dr. Barrowby once turned the laugh against Foote
+at the Bedford, when he was ostentatiously showing his gold repeater,
+with the remark--"Why, my watch does not go!" "It soon _will go_,"
+quietly remarked the Doctor. Young Collins, the poet, who came to town
+in 1744 to seek his fortune, made his way to the Bedford, where Foote
+was supreme among the wits and critics. Like Foote, Collins was fond
+of fine clothes, and walked about with a feather in his hat, very
+unlike a young man who had not a single guinea he could call his own.
+A letter of the time tells us that "Collins was an acceptable
+companion everywhere; and among the gentlemen who loved him for a
+genius, may be reckoned the Doctors Armstrong, Barrowby, Hill, Messrs.
+Quin, Garrick, and Foote, who frequently took his opinion upon their
+pieces before they were seen by the public. He was particularly
+noticed by the geniuses who frequented the Bedford and Slaughter's
+Coffee-houses."[25]
+
+Ten years later (1754) we find Foote again supreme in his critical
+corner at the Bedford. The regular frequenters of the room strove to
+get admitted to his party at supper; and others got as nearly as they
+could to the table, as the only humour flowed from Foote's tongue. The
+Bedford was now in its highest repute.
+
+Foote and Garrick often met at the Bedford, and many and sharp were
+their encounters. They were the two great rivals of the day. Foote
+usually attacked, and Garrick, who had many weak points, was mostly
+the sufferer. Garrick, in early life, had been in the wine trade, and
+had supplied the Bedford with wine; he was thus described by Foote as
+living in Durham-yard, with three quarts of vinegar in the cellar,
+calling himself a wine-merchant. How Foote must have abused the
+Bedford wine of this period!
+
+One night, Foote came into the Bedford, where Garrick was seated, and
+there gave him an account of a most wonderful actor he had just seen.
+Garrick was on the tenters of suspense, and there Foote kept him a
+full hour. At last Foote, compassionating the suffering listener,
+brought the attack to a close by asking Garrick what he thought of Mr.
+Pitt's histrionic talents, when Garrick, glad of the release, declared
+that if Pitt had chosen the stage, he might have been the first actor
+upon it.
+
+One night, Garrick and Foote were about to leave the Bedford together,
+when the latter, in paying the bill, dropped a guinea; and not finding
+it at once, said, "Where on earth can it be gone to?"--"Gone to the
+devil, I think," replied Garrick, who had assisted in the
+search.--"Well said, David!" was Foote's reply; "let you alone for
+making a guinea go further than anybody else."
+
+Churchill's quarrel with Hogarth began at the shilling rubber club, in
+the parlour of the Bedford; when Hogarth used some very insulting
+language towards Churchill, who resented it in the _Epistle_. This
+quarrel showed more venom than wit:--"Never," says Walpole, "did two
+angry men of their abilities throw mud with less dexterity."
+
+Woodward, the comedian, mostly lived at the Bedford, was intimate with
+Stacie, the landlord, and gave him his (W.'s) portrait, with a mask in
+his hand, one of the early pictures by Sir Joshua Reynolds. Stacie
+played an excellent game at whist. One morning, about two o'clock, one
+of his waiters awoke him to tell him that a nobleman had knocked him
+up, and had desired him to call his master to play a rubber with him
+for one hundred guineas. Stacie got up, dressed himself, won the
+money, and was in bed and asleep, all within an hour.
+
+Of two houses in the Piazza, built for Francis, Earl of Bedford, we
+obtain some minute information from the lease granted in 1634, to Sir
+Edmund Verney, Knight Marshal to King Charles I.; these two houses
+being just then erected as part of the Piazza. There are also included
+in the lease the "yardes, stables, coach-houses, and gardens now layd,
+or hereafter to be layd, to the said messuages," which description of
+the premises seems to identify them as the two houses at the southern
+end of the Piazza, adjoining to Great Russell-street, and now occupied
+as the Bedford Coffee-house and Hotel. They are either the same
+premises, or they immediately adjoin the premises, occupied a century
+later as the Bedford Coffee-house. (Mr. John Bruce, _Archæologia_,
+XXXV. 195.) The lease contains a minute specification of the
+landlord's fittings and customary accommodations of what were then
+some of the most fashionable residences in the metropolis. In the
+attached schedule is the use of the wainscot, enumerating separately
+every piece of wainscot on the premises. The tenant is bound to keep
+in repair the "Portico Walke" underneath the premises; he is at all
+times to have "ingresse, egresse and regresse" through the Portico
+Walk; and he may "expel, put, or drive away out of the said walke any
+youth or other person whatsoever which shall eyther play or be in the
+said Portico Walke in offence or disturbance to the said Sir Edmund
+Verney."
+
+     The inventory of the fixtures is curious. It enumerates
+     every apartment, from the beer-cellar, and the strong
+     beer-cellar, the scullery, the pantry, and the buttery, to
+     the dining and withdrawing-rooms. Most of the rooms had
+     casement windows, but the dining-room next Russell-street,
+     and other principal apartments, had "shutting windowes." The
+     principal rooms were also "double creasted round for
+     hangings," and were wainscoted round the chimney-pieces, and
+     doors and windows. In one case, a study, "south towards
+     Russell-street, the whole room was wainscoted, and the hall
+     in part." Most of the windows had "soil-boards" attached;
+     the room-doors had generally "stock locks," in some places
+     "spring plate locks" and spring bolts. There is not
+     mentioned anything approaching to a fire-grate in any of the
+     rooms, except perhaps in the kitchen, where occurs "a
+     travers barre for the chimney."
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[24] See "Club at Tom's Coffee-house," vol. i. pp. 159-164.
+
+[25] Memoir by Moy Thomas, prefixed to Collins's Poetical Works. Bell
+and Daldy, 1858.
+
+
+MACKLIN'S COFFEE-HOUSE ORATORY.
+
+After Macklin had retired from the stage, in 1754, he opened that
+portion of the Piazza-houses, in Covent Garden, which is now the
+Tavistock Hotel. Here he fitted up a large coffee-room, a theatre for
+oratory, and other apartments. To a three-shilling ordinary he added a
+shilling lecture, or "School of Oratory and Criticism;" he presided at
+the dinner-table, and carved for the company; after which he played a
+sort of "Oracle of Eloquence." Fielding has happily sketched him in
+his _Voyage to Lisbon_: "Unfortunately for the fishmongers of London,
+the Dory only resides in the Devonshire seas; for could any of this
+company only convey one to the Temple of luxury under the Piazza,
+where Macklin, the high priest, daily serves up his rich offerings,
+great would be the reward of that fishmonger."
+
+In the Lecture, Macklin undertook to make each of his audience an
+orator, by teaching him how to speak. He invited hints and
+discussions; the novelty of the scheme attracted the curiosity of
+numbers; and this curiosity he still further excited by a very
+uncommon controversy, which now subsisted either in imagination or
+reality, between him and Foote, who abused one another very
+openly--"Squire Sammy" having for his purpose engaged the Little
+Theatre in the Haymarket.
+
+Besides this personal attack, various subjects were debated here in
+the manner of the Robin Hood Society, which filled the orator's
+pocket, and proved his rhetoric of some value.
+
+Here is one of his combats with Foote. The subject was Duelling in
+Ireland, which Macklin had illustrated as far as the reign of
+Elizabeth. Foote cried "Order;" he had a question to put. "Well, Sir,"
+said Macklin, "what have you to say upon this subject?" "I think,
+Sir," said Foote, "this matter might be settled in a few words. What
+o'clock is it, Sir?" Macklin could not possibly see what the clock had
+to do with a dissertation upon Duelling, but gruffly reported the hour
+to be half-past nine. "Very well," said Foote, "about this time of the
+night every gentleman in Ireland that can possibly afford it is in his
+third bottle of claret, and therefore in a fair way of getting drunk;
+and from drunkenness proceeds quarrelling, and from quarrelling,
+duelling, and so there's an end of the chapter." The company were
+much obliged to Foote for his interference, the hour being considered;
+though Macklin did not relish the abridgment.
+
+The success of Foote's fun upon Macklin's Lectures, led him to
+establish a summer entertainment of his own at the Haymarket. He took
+up Macklin's notion of applying Greek Tragedy to modern subjects, and
+the squib was so successful that Foote cleared by it 500_l._, in five
+nights, while the great Piazza Coffee-room in Covent Garden was shut
+up, and Macklin in the _Gazette_ as a bankrupt.
+
+But when the great plan of Mr. Macklin proved abortive, when as he
+said in a former prologue, upon a nearly similar occasion--
+
+     "From scheming, fretting, famine, and despair,
+     We saw to grace restor'd an exiled player;"
+
+when the town was sated with the seemingly-concocted quarrel between
+the two theatrical geniuses, Macklin locked up his doors, all
+animosity was laid aside, and they came and shook hands at the
+Bedford; the group resumed their appearance, and, with a new master, a
+new set of customers was seen.
+
+
+TOM KING'S COFFEE-HOUSE.
+
+This was one of the old night-houses of Covent Garden Market: it was a
+rude shed immediately beneath the portico of St. Paul's Church, and
+was one "well known to all gentlemen to whom beds are unknown."
+Fielding in one of his Prologues says:
+
+     "What rake is ignorant of King's Coffee-house?"
+
+It is in the background of Hogarth's print of _Morning_, where the
+prim maiden lady, walking to church, is soured with seeing two fuddled
+_beaux_ from King's Coffee-house caressing two frail women. At the
+door there is a drunken row, in which swords and cudgels are the
+weapons.
+
+Harwood's _Alumni Etonenses_, p. 293, in the account of the Boys
+elected from Eton to King's College, contains this entry: "A.D. 1713,
+Thomas King, born at West Ashton, in Wiltshire, went away scholar in
+apprehension that his fellowship would be denied him; and afterwards
+kept that Coffee-house in Covent Garden, which was called by his own
+name."
+
+Moll King was landlady after Tom's death: she was witty, and her house
+was much frequented, though it was little better than a shed.
+"Noblemen and the first _beaux_," said Stacie, "after leaving Court,
+would go to her house in full dress, with swords and bags, and in rich
+brocaded silk coats, and walked and conversed with persons of every
+description. She would serve chimney-sweepers, gardeners, and the
+market-people in common with her lords of the highest rank. Mr.
+Apreece, a tall thin man in rich dress, was her constant customer. He
+was called Cadwallader by the frequenters of Moll's." It is not
+surprising that Moll was often fined for keeping a disorderly house.
+At length, she retired from business--and the pillory--to Hampstead,
+where she lived on her ill-earned gains, but paid for a pew in church,
+and was charitable at appointed seasons, and died in peace in 1747.
+
+It was at that period that Mother Needham, Mother Douglass (_alias_,
+according to Foote's _Minor_, Mother Cole), and Moll King, the
+tavern-keepers and the gamblers, took possession of premises abdicated
+by people of fashion. Upon the south side of the market-sheds was the
+noted "Finish," kept by Mrs. Butler, open all night, the last of the
+Garden taverns, and only cleared away in 1829. This house was
+originally the Queen's Head. Shuter was pot-boy here. Here was a
+picture of the Hazard Club, at the Bedford: it was painted by Hogarth,
+and filled a panel of the Coffee-room.
+
+Captain Laroon, an amateur painter of the time of Hogarth, who often
+witnessed the nocturnal revels at Moll King's, made a large and
+spirited drawing of the interior of her Coffee-house, which was at
+Strawberry Hill. It was bought for Walpole, by his printer, some
+seventy years since. There is also an engraving of the same room, in
+which is introduced a whole-length of Mr. Apreece, in a full
+court-dress: an impression of this plate is extremely rare.
+
+Justice Welsh used to say that Captain Laroon, his friend Captain
+Montague, and their constant companion, Little Casey, the Link-boy,
+were the three most troublesome of all his Bow-street visitors. The
+portraits of these three heroes are introduced in Boitard's rare print
+of "the Covent Garden Morning Frolic." Laroon is brandishing an
+artichoke. C. Montague is seated, drunk, on the top of Bet Careless's
+sedan, which is preceded by Little Casey, as a link-boy.
+
+Captain Laroon also painted a large folding-screen; the figures were
+full of broad humour, two representing a Quack Doctor and his Merry
+Andrew, before the gaping crowd.
+
+Laroon was deputy-chairman, under Sir Robert Walpole, of a Club,
+consisting of six gentlemen only, who met, at stated times, in the
+drawing-room of Scott, the marine painter, in Henrietta-street, Covent
+Garden; and it was unanimously agreed by the members, that they should
+be attended by Scott's wife only, who was a remarkable witty woman.
+Laroon made a beautiful conversation drawing of the Club, which is
+highly prized by J. T. Smith.
+
+
+PIAZZA COFFEE-HOUSE.
+
+This establishment, at the north-eastern angle of Covent Garden
+Piazza, appears to have originated with Macklin's; for we read in an
+advertisement in the _Public Advertiser_, March, 5, 1756: "the Great
+Piazza Coffee-room, in Covent-Garden."
+
+The Piazza was much frequented by Sheridan; and here is located the
+well-known anecdote told of his coolness during the burning of
+Drury-lane Theatre, in 1809. It is said that as he sat at the Piazza,
+during the fire, taking some refreshment, a friend of his having
+remarked on the philosophical calmness with which he bore his
+misfortune, Sheridan replied: "A man may surely be allowed to take a
+glass of wine _by his own fireside_."
+
+Sheridan and John Kemble often dined together at the Piazza, to be
+handy to the theatre. During Kemble's management, Sheridan had
+occasion to make a complaint, which brought a "nervous" letter from
+Kemble, to which Sheridan's reply is amusing enough. Thus, he writes:
+"that the management of a theatre is a situation capable of becoming
+_troublesome_, is information which I do not want, and a discovery
+which I thought you had made long ago." Sheridan then treats Kemble's
+letter as "a nervous flight," not to be noticed seriously, adding his
+anxiety for the interest of the theatre, and alluding to Kemble's
+touchiness and reserve; and thus concludes:
+
+"If there is anything amiss in your mind not arising from the
+_troublesomeness_ of your situation, it is childish and unmanly not to
+disclose it. The frankness with which I have dealt towards you
+entitles me to expect that you should have done so.
+
+"But I have no reason to believe this to be the case; and attributing
+your letter to a disorder which I know ought not to be indulged, I
+prescribe that thou shalt keep thine appointment at the Piazza
+Coffee-house, to-morrow at five, and, taking four bottles of claret
+instead of three, to which in sound health you might stint yourself,
+forget that you ever wrote the letter, as I shall that I ever received
+it.
+
+     "R. B. SHERIDAN."
+
+The Piazza façade, and interior, were of Gothic design. The house has
+been taken down, and in its place was built the Floral Hall, after the
+Crystal Palace model.
+
+
+THE CHAPTER COFFEE-HOUSE.
+
+In our first volume, pp. 179-186, we described this as a literary
+place of resort in Paternoster Row, more especially in connection
+with the Wittinagemot of the last century.
+
+A very interesting account of the Chapter, at a later period, (1848,)
+is given by Mrs. Gaskell. The Coffee-house is thus described:--
+
+"Paternoster Row was for many years sacred to publishers. It is a
+narrow flagged street, lying under the shadow of St. Paul's; at each
+end there are posts placed, so as to prevent the passage of carriages,
+and thus preserve a solemn silence for the deliberations of the
+'fathers of the Row.' The dull warehouses on each side are mostly
+occupied at present by wholesale stationers; if they be publishers'
+shops, they show no attractive front to the dark and narrow street.
+Halfway up on the left-hand side is the Chapter Coffee-house. I
+visited it last June. It was then unoccupied; it had the appearance of
+a dwelling-house two hundred years old or so, such as one sometimes
+sees in ancient country towns; the ceilings of the small rooms were
+low, and had heavy beams running across them; the walls were
+wainscoted breast-high; the staircase was shallow, broad, and dark,
+taking up much space in the centre of the house. This then was the
+Chapter Coffee-house, which, a century ago, was the resort of all the
+booksellers and publishers, and where the literary hacks, the critics,
+and even the wits used to go in search of ideas or employment. This
+was the place about which Chatterton wrote, in those delusive letters
+he sent to his mother at Bristol, while he was starving in London.
+
+"Years later it became the tavern frequented by university men, and
+country clergymen, who were up in London for a few days, and, having
+no private friends or access into society, were glad to learn what was
+going on in the world of letters, from the conversation which they
+were sure to hear in the coffee-room. It was a place solely frequented
+by men; I believe there was but one female servant in the house. Few
+people slept there: some of the stated meetings of the trade were held
+in it, as they had been for more than a century; and occasionally
+country booksellers, with now and then a clergyman, resorted to it. In
+the long, low, dingy room upstairs, the meetings of the trade were
+held. The high narrow windows looked into the gloomy Row; nothing of
+motion or of change could be seen in the grim dark houses opposite, so
+near and close, although the whole breadth of the Row was between. The
+mighty roar of London was round, like the sound of an unseen ocean,
+yet every foot-fall on the pavement below might be heard distinctly,
+in that unfrequented street."
+
+Goldsmith frequented the Chapter, and always occupied one place,
+which, for many years after was the seat of literary honour there.
+
+There are Leather Tokens of the Chapter Coffee-house in existence.
+
+
+CHILD'S COFFEE-HOUSE,
+
+In St. Paul's Churchyard, was one of the _Spectator's_ houses.
+"Sometimes," he says, "I smoke a pipe at Child's, and whilst I seem
+attentive to nothing but the _Postman_, overhear the conversation of
+every table in the room." It was much frequented by the clergy; for
+the _Spectator_, No. 609, notices the mistake of a country gentleman
+in taking all persons in scarfs for Doctors of Divinity, since only a
+scarf of the first magnitude entitles him to "the appellation of
+Doctor from his landlady and the _Boy at Child's_."
+
+Child's was the resort of Dr. Mead, and other professional men of
+eminence. The Fellows of the Royal Society came here. Whiston relates
+that Sir Hans Sloane, Dr. Halley, and he were once at Child's, when
+Dr. H., asked him, W., why he was not a member of the Royal Society?
+Whiston answered, because they durst not choose a heretic. Upon which
+Dr. H. said, if Sir Hans Sloane would propose him, W., he, Dr. H.,
+would second it, which was done accordingly.
+
+The propinquity of Child's to the Cathedral and Doctors' Commons, made
+it the resort of the clergy, and ecclesiastical loungers. In one
+respect, Child's was superseded by the Chapter, in Paternoster Row.
+
+
+LONDON COFFEE-HOUSE.
+
+This Coffee-house was established previous to the year 1731, for we
+find of it the following advertisement:--
+
+"May, 1731.
+
+"Whereas, it is customary for Coffee-houses and other Public-houses,
+to take 8_s._ for a quart of Arrack, and 6_s._ for a quart of Brandy
+or Rum, made into Punch:
+
+"This is to give Notice,
+
+"That James Ashley has opened, on Ludgate Hill, the London
+Coffee-house, Punch-house, Dorchester Beer and Welsh Ale Warehouse,
+where the finest and best old Arrack, Rum, and French Brandy is made
+into Punch, with the other of the finest ingredients--viz., A quart
+of Arrack made into Punch for six shillings; and so in proportion to
+the smallest quantity, which is half-a-quartern for fourpence
+halfpenny. A quart of Rum or Brandy made into Punch for four
+shillings; and so in proportion to the smallest quantity, which is
+half-a-quartern for fourpence halfpenny; and gentlemen may have it as
+soon made as a gill of Wine can be drawn."
+
+The premises occupy a Roman site; for, in 1800, in the rear of the
+house, in a bastion of the City Wall, was found a sepulchral monument,
+dedicated to Claudina Martina by her husband, a provincial Roman
+soldier; here also were found a fragment of a statue of Hercules, and
+a female head. In front of the Coffee-house, immediately west of St.
+Martin's church, stood Ludgate.
+
+The London Coffee-house (now a tavern) is noted for its publishers'
+sales of stock and copyrights. It was within the rules of the Fleet
+prison: and in the Coffee-house are "locked up" for the night such
+juries from the Old Bailey Sessions, as cannot agree upon verdicts.
+The house was long kept by the grandfather and father of Mr. John
+Leech, the celebrated artist.
+
+A singular incident occurred at the London Coffee-house, many years
+since: Mr. Brayley, the topographer, was present at a party here, when
+Mr. Broadhurst, the famous tenor, by singing a high note, caused a
+wine-glass on the table to break, the bowl being separated from the
+stem.
+
+At the bar of the London Coffee-house was sold Rowley's British
+Cephalic Snuff.
+
+
+TURK'S HEAD COFFEE HOUSE
+
+IN CHANGE ALLEY.
+
+From _The Kingdom's Intelligencer_, a weekly paper, published by
+authority, in 1662, we learn that there had just been opened a "new
+Coffee-house," with the sign of the Turk's Head, where was sold by
+retail "the right Coffee-powder," from 4_s._ to 6_s._ 8_d._ per pound;
+that pounded in a mortar, 2_s._; East India berry, 1_s._ 6_d._; and
+the right Turkie berry, well garbled, at 3_s._ "The ungarbled for
+lesse, with directions how to use the same." Also Chocolate at 2_s._
+6_d._ per pound; the perfumed from 4_s._ to 10_s._; "also, Sherbets
+made in Turkie, of lemons, roses, and violets perfumed; and Tea, or
+Chaa, according to its goodness. The house seal was Morat the Great.
+Gentlemen customers and acquaintances are (the next New Year's Day)
+invited to the sign of the Great Turk at this new Coffee-house, where
+Coffee will be on free cost." The sign was also Morat the Great. Morat
+figures as a tyrant in Dryden's _Aurung Zebe_. There is a token of
+this house, with the Sultan's head, in the Beaufoy collection.
+
+Another token, in the same collection, is of unusual excellence,
+probably by John Roettier. It has on the obverse, Morat ye Great Men
+did mee call,--Sultan's head; reverse, Where eare I came I conquered
+all.--In the field, Coffee, Tobacco, Sherbet, Tea, Chocolat, Retail in
+Exchange Alee. "The word Tea," says Mr. Burn, "occurs on no other
+tokens than those issued from 'the Great Turk' Coffee-house, in
+Exchange-Alley;" in one of its advertisements, 1662, tea is from
+6_s._ to 60_s._ a pound.
+
+Competition arose. One Constantine Jennings in Threadneedle-street,
+over against St. Christopher's Church, advertised that coffee,
+chocolate, sherbet, and tea, the right Turkey berry, may be had as
+cheap and as good of him as is any where to be had for money; and that
+people may there be taught to prepare the said liquors gratis.
+
+Pepys, in his _Diary_, tells, Sept. 25, 1669, of his sending for "a
+cup of Tea, a China Drink, he had not before tasted." Henry Bennet,
+Earl of Arlington, about 1666, introduced tea at Court. And, in his
+Sir Charles Sedley's _Mulberry Garden_, we are told that "he who
+wished to be considered a man of fashion always drank wine-and-water
+at dinner, and a dish of tea afterwards." These details are condensed
+from Mr. Burn's excellent _Beaufoy Catalogue_. 2nd edition, 1855.
+
+In Gerard-street, Soho, also, was another Turk's Head Coffee-house,
+where was held a Turk's Head Society; in 1777, we find Gibbon writing
+to Garrick: "At this time of year, (Aug. 14,) the Society of the
+Turk's Head can no longer be addressed as a corporate body, and most
+of the individual members are probably dispersed: Adam Smith in
+Scotland; Burke in the shades of Beaconsfield; Fox, the Lord or the
+devil knows where."
+
+This place was a kind of head-quarters for the Loyal Association
+during the Rebellion of 1745.
+
+Here was founded "The Literary Club," already described in Vol. I.,
+pp. 204-219.
+
+In 1753, several Artists met at the Turk's Head, and from thence,
+their Secretary, Mr. F. M. Newton, dated a printed letter to the
+Artists to form a select body for the Protection and Encouragement of
+Art. Another Society of Artists met in Peter's-court, St.
+Martin's-lane, from the year 1739 to 1769. After continued squabbles,
+which lasted for many years, the principal Artists met together at the
+Turk's Head, where many others having joined them, they petitioned the
+King (George III.) to become patron of a Royal Academy of Art. His
+Majesty consented; and the new Society took a room in Pall Mall,
+opposite to Market-lane, where they remained until the King, in the
+year 1771, granted them apartments in Old Somerset House.--_J. T.
+Smith._
+
+The Turk's Head Coffee-house, No. 142, in the Strand, was a favourite
+supping-house with Dr. Johnson and Boswell, in whose Life of Johnson
+are several entries, commencing with 1763--"At night, Mr. Johnson and
+I supped in a private room at the Turk's Head Coffee-house, in the
+Strand; 'I encourage this house,' said he, 'for the mistress of it is
+a good civil woman, and has not much business.'" Another entry is--"We
+concluded the day at the Turk's Head Coffee-house very socially." And,
+August 3, 1673--"We had our last social meeting at the Turk's Head
+Coffee-house, before my setting out for foreign parts."
+
+The name was afterwards changed to "The Turk's Head, Canada and Bath
+Coffee-house," and was a well frequented tavern and hotel: it was
+taken down, and a very handsome lofty house erected upon the site, at
+the cost of, we believe, eight thousand pounds; it was opened as a
+tavern and hotel, but did not long continue.
+
+At the Turk's Head, or Miles's Coffee-house, New Palace-yard,
+Westminster, the noted Rota Club met, founded by Harrington, in 1659:
+where was a large oval table, with a passage in the middle, for Miles
+to deliver his coffee. (See _Clubs_, Vol. I., pp. 15, 16).
+
+
+SQUIRE'S COFFEE-HOUSE.
+
+In Fulwood's (_vulgo_ Fuller's) Rents, in Holborn, nearly opposite
+Chancery-lane, in the reign of James I., lived Christopher Fulwood, in
+a mansion of some pretension, of which an existing house of the period
+is said to be the remains. "Some will have it," says Hatton, 1708,
+"that it is called from being a _woody_ place before there were
+buildings here; but its being called Fullwood's Rents (as it is in
+deeds and leases), shows it to be the rents of one called Fullwood,
+the owner or builder thereof." Strype describes the Rents, or court,
+as running up to Gray's-Inn, "into which it has an entrance through
+the gate; a place of good resort, and taken up by coffee-houses,
+ale-houses, and houses of entertainment, by reason of its vicinity to
+Gray's-Inn. On the east side is a handsome open place, with a handsome
+freestone pavement, and better built, and inhabited by private
+house-keepers. At the upper end of this court is a passage into the
+Castle Tavern, a house of considerable trade, as is the Golden Griffin
+Tavern, on the West side."
+
+Here was John's, one of the earliest Coffee-houses; and adjoining
+Gray's-Inn gate is a deep-coloured red-brick house, once Squire's
+Coffee-house, kept by Squire, "a noted man in Fuller's Rents," who
+died in 1717. The house is very roomy; it has been handsome, and has
+a wide staircase. Squire's was one of the receiving-houses of the
+_Spectator_: in No. 269, January 8, 1711-1712, he accepts Sir Roger de
+Coverley's invitation to "smoke a pipe with him over a dish of coffee
+at Squire's. As I love the old man, I take delight in complying with
+everything that is agreeable to him, and accordingly waited on him to
+the Coffee-house, where his venerable figure drew upon us the eyes of
+the whole room. He had no sooner seated himself at the upper end of
+the high table, but he called for a clean pipe, a paper of tobacco, a
+dish of coffee, a wax candle, and the _Supplement_ [a periodical paper
+of that time], with such an air of cheerfulness and good humour, that
+all the boys in the coffee-room, (who seemed to take pleasure in
+serving him,) were at once employed on his several errands, insomuch
+that nobody else could come at a dish of tea, until the Knight had got
+all his conveniences about him." Such was the coffee-room in the
+_Spectator's_ day.
+
+Gray's-Inn Walks, to which the Rents led, across Field-court, were
+then a fashionable promenade; and here Sir Roger could "clear his
+pipes in good air;" for scarcely a house intervened thence to
+Hampstead. Though Ned Ward, in his _London Spy_, says--"I found none
+but a parcel of superannuated debauchees, huddled up in cloaks, frieze
+coats, and wadded gowns, to protect their old carcases from the
+sharpness of Hampstead air; creeping up and down in pairs and leashes
+no faster than the hand of a dial, or a county convict going to
+execution: some talking of law, some of religion, and some of
+politics. After I had walked two or three times round, I sat myself
+down in the upper walk, where just before me, on a stone pedestal, we
+fixed an old rusty horizontal dial, with the gnomon broke short off."
+Round the sun-dial, seats were arranged in a semicircle.
+
+Gray's-Inn Gardens were resorted to by dangerous classes. Expert
+pickpockets and plausible ring-droppers found easy prey there on
+crowded days; and in old plays the Gardens are repeatedly mentioned as
+a place of negotiation for clandestine lovers, which led to the walks
+being closed, except at stated hours.
+
+Returning to Fulwood's Rents, we may here describe another of its
+attractions, the Tavern and punch-house, within one door of
+Gray's-Inn, apparently the King's Head. From some time before 1699,
+until his death in 1731, Ward kept this house, which he thus
+commemorates, or, in another word, puffs, in his _London Spy_: being a
+vintner himself, we may rest assured that he would have penned this in
+praise of no other than himself:
+
+     "To speak but the truth of my honest friend Ned,
+     The best of all vintners that ever God made;
+     He's free of the beef, and as free of his bread,
+     And washes both down with his glass of rare red,
+     That tops all the town, and commands a good trade;
+     Such wine as will cheer up the drooping King's head,
+     And brisk up the soul, though our body's half dead;
+     He scorns to draw bad, as he hopes to be paid;
+     And now his name's up, he may e'en lie abed;
+     For he'll get an estate--there's no more to be said."
+
+We ought to have remarked, that the ox was roasted, cut up, and
+distributed gratis; a piece of generosity which, by a poetic fiction,
+is supposed to have inspired the above limping balderdash.
+
+
+SLAUGHTER'S COFFEE-HOUSE.
+
+This Coffee-house, famous as the resort of painters and sculptors, in
+the last century, was situated at the upper end of the west side of
+St. Martin's-lane, three doors from Newport-street. Its first landlord
+was Thomas Slaughter, 1692. Mr. Cunningham tells us that a second
+Slaughter's (New Slaughter's), was established in the same street
+about 1760, when the original establishment adopted the name of "Old
+Slaughter's," by which designation it was known till within a few
+years of the final demolition of the house to make way for the new
+avenue between Long-acre and Leicester-square, formed 1843-44. For
+many years previous to the streets of London being completely paved,
+"Slaughter's" was called "The Coffee-house on the Pavement." In like
+manner, "The Pavement," Moor fields, received its distinctive name.
+Besides being the resort of artists, Old Slaughter's was the house of
+call for Frenchmen.
+
+St. Martin's-lane was long one of the head-quarters of the artists of
+the last century. "In the time of Benjamin West," says J. T. Smith,
+"and before the formation of the Royal Academy, Greek-street, St.
+Martin's-lane, and Gerard-street, was their colony. Old Slaughter's
+Coffee-house, in St. Martin's-lane, was their grand resort in the
+evenings, and Hogarth was a constant visitor." He lived at the Golden
+Head, on the eastern side of Leicester Fields, in the northern half
+of the Sabloniere Hotel. The head he cut out himself from pieces of
+cork, glued and bound together; it was placed over the street-door. At
+this time, young Benjamin West was living in chambers, in
+Bedford-street, Covent Garden, and had there set up his easel; he was
+married, in 1765, at St. Martin's Church. Roubiliac was often to be
+found at Slaughter's in early life; probably before he gained the
+patronage of Sir Edward Walpole, through finding and returning to the
+baronet the pocket-book of bank-notes, which the young maker of
+monuments had picked up in Vauxhall Gardens. Sir Edward, to remunerate
+his integrity, and his skill, of which he showed specimens, promised
+to patronize Roubiliac through life, and he faithfully performed this
+promise. Young Gainsborough, who spent three years amid the works of
+the painters in St. Martin's-lane, Hayman, and Cipriani, who were all
+eminently convivial, were, in all probability, frequenters of
+Slaughter's. Smith tells us that Quin and Hayman were inseparable
+friends, and so convivial, that they seldom parted till daylight.
+
+Mr. Cunningham relates that here, "in early life, Wilkie would enjoy a
+small dinner at a small cost. I have been told by an old frequenter of
+the house, that Wilkie was always the last dropper-in for a dinner,
+and that he was never seen to dine in the house by daylight. The truth
+is, he slaved at his art at home till the last glimpse of daylight had
+disappeared."
+
+Haydon was accustomed in the early days of his fitful career, to dine
+here with Wilkie. In his _Autobiography_, in the year 1808, Haydon
+writes: "This period of our lives was one of great happiness: painting
+all day, then dining at the Old Slaughter Chop-house, then going to
+the Academy until eight, to fill up the evening, then going home to
+tea--that blessing of a studious man--talking over our respective
+exploits, what he [Wilkie] had been doing, and what I had done, and
+then, frequently to relieve our minds fatigued by their eight and
+twelve hours' work, giving vent to the most extraordinary absurdities.
+Often have we made rhymes on odd names, and shouted with laughter at
+each new line that was added. Sometimes lazily inclined after a good
+dinner, we have lounged about, near Drury-lane or Covent Garden,
+hesitating whether to go in, and often have I (knowing first that
+there was nothing I wished to see) assumed a virtue I did not possess,
+and pretending moral superiority, preached to Wilkie on the weakness
+of not resisting such temptations for the sake of our art and our
+duty, and marched him off to his studies, when he was longing to see
+Mother Goose."
+
+J. T. Smith has narrated some fifteen pages of characteristic
+anecdotes of the artistic visitors of Old Slaughter's, which he refers
+to as "formerly the rendezvous of Pope, Dryden, and other wits, and
+much frequented by several eminently clever men of his day."
+
+Thither came Ware, the architect, who, when a little sickly boy, was
+apprenticed to a chimney-sweeper, and was seen chalking the
+street-front of Whitehall, by a gentleman, who purchased the remainder
+of the boy's time; gave him an excellent education; then sent him to
+Italy, and, upon his return, employed him, and introduced him to his
+friends as an architect. Ware was heard to tell this story, while he
+was sitting to Roubiliac for his bust. Ware built Chesterfield House
+and several other noble mansions, and compiled a Palladio, in folio:
+he retained the soot in his skin to the day of his death. He was very
+intimate with Roubiliac, who was an opposite eastern neighbour of Old
+Slaughter's. Another architect, Gwynn, who competed with Mylne for
+designing and building Blackfriars Bridge, was also a frequent visitor
+at Old Slaughter's, as was Gravelot, who kept a drawing-school in the
+Strand, nearly opposite to Southampton-street.
+
+Hudson, who painted the Dilettanti portraits; M'Ardell, the
+mezzotinto-scraper; and Luke Sullivan, the engraver of Hogarth's March
+to Finchley, also frequented Old Slaughter's; likewise Theodore
+Gardell, the portrait painter, who was executed for the murder of his
+landlady; and Old Moser, keeper of the Drawing Academy in
+Peter's-court. Richard Wilson, the landscape painter, was not a
+regular customer here: his favourite house was the Constitution,
+Bedford-street, Covent Garden, where he could indulge in a pot of
+porter more freely, and enjoy the fun of Mortimer, the painter.
+
+Parry, the Welsh harper, though totally blind, was one of the first
+draught-players in England, and occasionally played with the
+frequenters of Old Slaughter's; and here, in consequence of a bet,
+Roubiliac introduced Nathaniel Smith (father of John Thomas), to play
+at draughts with Parry; the game lasted about half an hour: Parry was
+much agitated, and Smith proposed to give in; but as there were bets
+depending, it was played out, and Smith won. This victory brought
+Smith numerous challenges; and the dons of the Barn, a public-house,
+in St. Martin's-lane, nearly opposite the church, invited him to
+become a member; but Smith declined. The Barn, for many years, was
+frequented by all the noted players of chess and draughts; and it was
+there that they often decided games of the first importance, played
+between persons of the highest rank, living in different parts of the
+world.
+
+T. Rawle,[26] the inseparable companion of Captain Grose, the
+antiquary, came often to Slaughter's.
+
+It was long asserted of Slaughter's Coffee-house that there never had
+been a person of that name as master of the house, but that it was
+named from its having been opened for the use of the men who
+slaughtered the cattle for the butchers of Newport Market, in an open
+space then adjoining. "This," says J. T. Smith, "may be the fact, if
+we believe that coffee was taken as refreshment by slaughtermen,
+instead of purl or porter; or that it was so called by the
+neighbouring butchers in derision of the numerous and fashionable
+Coffee-houses of the day; as, for instance, 'The Old Man's
+Coffee-house,' and 'The Young Man's Coffee-house.' Be that as it may,
+in my father's time, and also within memory of the most aged people,
+this Coffee-house was called '_Old_ Slaughter's,' and not The
+Slaughter, or The Slaughterer's Coffee-house."
+
+In 1827, there was sold by Stewart, Wheatley, and Adlard, in
+Piccadilly, a picture attributed to Hogarth, for 150 guineas; it was
+described A Conversation over a Bowl of Punch, at _Old_ Slaughter's
+Coffee-house, in St. Martin's-lane, and the figures were said to be
+portraits of the painter, Doctor Monsey, and the landlord, _Old_
+Slaughter. But this picture, as J. T. Smith shows, was painted by
+Highmore, for his father's godfather, Nathaniel Oldham, and one of the
+artist's patrons; "it is neither a scene at Old Slaughter's, nor are
+the portraits rightly described in the sale catalogue, but a scene at
+Oldham's house, at Ealing, with an old schoolmaster, a farmer, the
+artist Highmore, and Oldham himself."
+
+FOOTNOTE:
+
+[26] Rawle was one of his Majesty's accoutrement makers; and after his
+death, his effects were sold by Hutchins, in King-street, Covent
+Garden. Among the lots were a helmet, a sword, and several letters, of
+Oliver Cromwell; also the doublet in which Cromwell dissolved the Long
+Parliament. Another singular lot was a large black wig, with long
+flowing curls, stated to have been worn by King Charles II.: it was
+bought by Suett, the actor, who was a great collector of wigs. He
+continued to act in this wig for many years, in _Tom Thumb_, and other
+pieces, till it was burnt when the theatre at Birmingham was destroyed
+by fire. Next morning, Suett, meeting Mrs. Booth, the mother of the
+lively actress S. Booth, exclaimed, "Mrs. Booth, my wig's gone!"
+
+
+WILL'S AND SERLE'S COFFEE-HOUSES.
+
+At the corner of Serle-street and Portugal-street, most invitingly
+facing the passage to Lincoln's Inn New-square, was Will's, of old
+repute, and thus described in the _Epicure's Almanack_, 1815: "This
+is, indubitably, a house of the first class, which dresses very
+desirable turtle and venison, and broaches many a pipe of mature port,
+double voyaged Madeira, and princely claret; wherewithal to wash down
+the dust of making law-books, and take out the inky blots from rotten
+parchment bonds; or if we must quote and parodize Will's, 'hath a
+sweet oblivious antidote which clears the cranium of that perilous
+stuff that clouds the cerebellum.'" The Coffee-house has some time
+being given up.
+
+Serle's Coffee-house is one of those mentioned in No. 49, of the
+_Spectator_: "I do not know that I meet in any of my walks, objects
+which move both my spleen and laughter so effectually as those young
+fellows at the Grecian, Squire's, Serle's, and all other Coffee-houses
+adjacent to the Law, who rise for no other purpose but to publish
+their laziness."
+
+
+THE GRECIAN COFFEE-HOUSE,
+
+Devereux-court, Strand, (closed in 1843,) was named from Constantine,
+of Threadneedle-street, the _Grecian_ who kept it. In the _Tatler_
+announcement, all accounts of learning are to be "under the title of
+the Grecian;" and, in the _Tatler_, No. 6: "While other parts of the
+town are amused with the present actions, [Marlborough's,] we
+generally spend the evening at this table [at the Grecian], in
+inquiries into antiquity, and think anything new, which gives us new
+knowledge. Thus, we are making a very pleasant entertainment to
+ourselves in putting the actions of Homer's Iliad into an exact
+journal."
+
+The _Spectator's_ face was very well-known at the Grecian, a
+Coffee-house "adjacent to the law." Occasionally, it was the scene of
+learned discussion. Thus Dr. King relates that one evening, two
+gentlemen, who were constant companions, were disputing here,
+concerning the accent of a Greek word. This dispute was carried to
+such a length, that the two friends thought proper to determine it
+with their swords: for this purpose they stepped into Devereux-court,
+where one of them (Dr. King thinks his name was Fitzgerald) was run
+through the body, and died on the spot.
+
+The Grecian was Foote's morning lounge. It was handy, too, for the
+young Templar, Goldsmith, and often did it echo with Oliver's
+boisterous mirth; for "it had become the favourite resort of the Irish
+and Lancashire Templars, whom he delighted in collecting around him,
+in entertaining with a cordial and unostentatious hospitality, and in
+occasionally amusing with his flute, or with whist, neither of which
+he played very well!" Here Goldsmith occasionally wound up his
+"Shoemaker's Holiday" with supper.
+
+It was at the Grecian that Fleetwood Shephard told this memorable
+story to Dr. Tancred Robinson, who gave Richardson permission to
+repeat it. "The Earl of Dorset was in Little Britain, beating about
+for books to his taste: there was _Paradise Lost_. He was surprised
+with some passages he struck upon, dipping here and there and bought
+it; the bookseller begged him to speak in its favour, if he liked it,
+for they lay on his hands as waste paper. Jesus!--Shephard was
+present. My Lord took it home, read it, and sent it to Dryden, who in
+a short time returned it. 'This man,' says Dryden, 'cuts us all out,
+and the ancients too!'"
+
+The Grecian was also frequented by Fellows of the Royal Society.
+Thoresby, in his _Diary_, tells us, 22 May, 1712, that "having bought
+each a pair of black silk stockings in Westminster Hall, they returned
+by water, and then walked, to meet his friend, Dr. Sloane, the
+Secretary of the Royal Society, at the Grecian Coffee-house, by the
+Temple." And, on June 12th, same year, "Thoresby attended the Royal
+Society, where were present, the President, Sir Isaac Newton, both the
+Secretaries, the two Professors from Oxford, Dr. Halley and Kell, with
+others, whose company we after enjoyed at the Grecian Coffee-house."
+
+In Devereux-court, also, was Tom's Coffee-house, much resorted to by
+men of letters; among whom were Dr. Birch, who wrote the History of
+the Royal Society; also Akenside, the poet; and there is in print a
+letter of Pope's, addressed to Fortescue, his "counsel learned in the
+law," at this coffee-house.
+
+
+GEORGE'S COFFEE-HOUSE,
+
+No. 213, Strand, near Temple Bar, was a noted resort in the last and
+present century. When it was a coffee-house, one day, there came in
+Sir James Lowther, who after changing a piece of silver with the
+coffee-woman, and paying twopence for his dish of coffee, was helped
+into his chariot, for he was very lame and infirm, and went home: some
+little time afterwards, he returned to the same coffee-house, on
+purpose to acquaint the woman who kept it, that she had given him a
+bad half-penny, and demanded another in exchange for it. Sir James had
+about 40,000_l._ per annum, and was at a loss whom to appoint his
+heir.
+
+Shenstone, who found
+
+     "The warmest welcome at an inn,"
+
+found George's to be economical. "What do you think," he writes, "must
+be my expense, who love to pry into everything of the kind? Why, truly
+one shilling. My company goes to George's Coffee-house, where, for
+that small subscription I read all pamphlets under a three shillings'
+dimension; and indeed, any larger would not be fit for coffee-house
+perusal." Shenstone relates that Lord Orford was at George's, when
+the mob that were carrying his Lordship in effigy, came into the box
+where he was, to beg money of him, amongst others: this story Horace
+Walpole contradicts, adding that he supposes Shenstone thought that
+after Lord Orford quitted his place, he went to the coffee-house to
+learn news.
+
+Arthur Murphy frequented George's, "where the town wits met every
+evening." Lloyd, the law-student, sings:--
+
+     "By law let others toil to gain renown!
+     Florio's a gentleman, a man o' the town.
+     He nor courts clients, or the law regarding,
+     Hurries from Nando's down to Covent Garden,
+     Yet, he's a scholar; mark him in the pit,
+     With critic catcall sound the stops of wit!
+     Supreme at George's, he harangues the throng,
+     Censor of style, from tragedy to song."
+
+
+THE PERCY COFFEE-HOUSE,
+
+Rathbone-place, Oxford-street, no longer exists; but it will be kept
+in recollection for its having given name to one of the most popular
+publications, of its class, in our time, namely, the _Percy
+Anecdotes_, "by Sholto and Reuben Percy, Brothers of the Benedictine
+Monastery of Mont Benger," in 44 parts, commencing in 1820. So said
+the title pages, but the names and the locality were _supposé_. Reuben
+Percy was Thomas Byerley, who died in 1824; he was the brother of Sir
+John Byerley, and the first editor of the _Mirror_, commenced by John
+Limbird, in 1822. Sholto Percy was Joseph Clinton Robertson, who died
+in 1852; he was the projector of the _Mechanics' Magazine_, which he
+edited from its commencement to his death. The name of the collection
+of Anecdotes was not taken, as at the time supposed, from the
+popularity of the _Percy Reliques_, but from the Percy Coffee-house,
+where Byerley and Robertson were accustomed to meet to talk over their
+joint work. The _idea_ was, however, claimed by Sir Richard Phillips,
+who stoutly maintained that it originated in a suggestion made by him
+to Dr. Tilloch and Mr. Mayne, to cut the anecdotes from the many
+years' files of the _Star_ newspaper, of which Dr. Tilloch was the
+editor, and Mr. Byerley assistant editor; and to the latter
+overhearing the suggestion, Sir Richard contested, might the _Percy
+Anecdotes_ be traced. They were very successful, and a large sum was
+realized by the work.
+
+
+PEELE'S COFFEE-HOUSE,
+
+Nos. 177 and 178, Fleet-street, east corner of Fetter-lane, was one of
+the Coffee-houses of the Johnsonian period; and here was long
+preserved a portrait of Dr. Johnson, on the key-stone of a
+chimney-piece, stated to have been painted by Sir Joshua Reynolds.
+Peele's was noted for files of newspapers from these dates: _Gazette_,
+1759; _Times_, 1780; _Morning Chronicle_, 1773; _Morning Post_, 1773;
+_Morning Herald_, 1784; _Morning Advertiser_, 1794; and the evening
+papers from their commencement. The house is now a tavern.
+
+
+
+
+Taverns.
+
+
+THE TAVERNS OF OLD LONDON.
+
+The changes in the manners and customs of our metropolis may be
+agreeably gathered from such glimpses as we gain of the history of
+"houses of entertainment" in the long lapse of centuries. Their
+records present innumerable pictures in little of society and modes,
+the interest of which is increased by distance. They show us how the
+tavern was the great focus of news long before the newspaper fully
+supplied the intellectual want. Much of the business of early times
+was transacted in taverns, and it is to some extent in the present
+day. According to the age, the tavern reflects the manners, the social
+tastes, customs, and recreations; and there, in days when travelling
+was difficult and costly, and not unattended with danger, the
+traveller told his wondrous tale to many an eager listener; and the
+man who rarely strayed beyond his own parish, was thus made acquainted
+with the life of the world. Then, the old tavern combined, with much
+of the comfort of an English home, its luxuries, without the
+forethought of providing either. Its come-and-go life presented many a
+useful lesson to the man who looked beyond the cheer of the moment.
+The master, or taverner, was mostly a person of substance, often of
+ready wit and cheerful manners--to render his public home attractive.
+
+The "win-hous," or tavern, is enumerated among the houses of
+entertainment in the time of the Saxons; and no doubt existed in
+England much earlier. The peg-tankard, a specimen of which we see in
+the Ashmolean Collection at Oxford, originated with the Saxons; the
+pegs inside denoted how deep each guest was to drink: hence arose the
+saying, "he is a peg too low," when a man was out of spirits. The
+Danes were even more convivial in their habits than the Saxons, and
+may be presumed to have multiplied the number of "guest houses," as
+the early taverns were called. The Norman followers of the Conqueror
+soon fell into the good cheer of their predecessors in England.
+Although wine was made at this period in great abundance from
+vineyards in various parts of England, the trade of the taverns was
+principally supplied from France. The traffic for Bordeaux and the
+neighbouring provinces is said to have commenced about 1154, through
+the marriage of Henry II. with Eleanor of Aquitaine. The Normans were
+the great carriers, and Guienne the place whence most of our wines
+were brought; and which are described in this reign to have been sold
+in the ships and in the wine-cellars near the public place of cookery,
+on the banks of the Thames. We are now speaking of the customs of
+seven centuries since; of which the public wine-cellar, known to our
+time as _the Shades_, adjoining old London Bridge, was unquestionably
+a relic.
+
+The earliest dealers in wines were of two descriptions: the
+_vintners_, or importers; and the _taverners_, who kept taverns for
+them, and sold the wine by retail to such as came to the tavern to
+drink it, or fetched it to their own homes.
+
+In a document of the reign of Edward II., we find mentioned a
+tenement called Pin Tavern, situated in the Vintry, where the Bordeaux
+merchants _craned_ their wines out of lighters, and other vessels on
+the Thames; and here was the famous old tavern with the sign of the
+_Three Cranes_. Chaucer makes the apprentice of this period loving
+better the tavern than the shop:--
+
+     "A prentis whilom dwelt in our citee,--
+     At ev'ry bridale would he sing and hoppe;
+     He loved bet' the _tavern_ than the shoppe,
+     For when ther any riding was in Chepe,
+     Out of the shoppe thider would he lepe;
+     And til that he had all the sight ysein
+     And dancid wil, he wold not com agen."
+
+Thus, the idle City apprentice was a great tavern haunter, which was
+forbidden in his indenture; and to this day, the apprentice's
+indenture enacts that he shall not "haunt taverns."
+
+In a play of 1608, the apprentices of old Hobson, a rich citizen, in
+1560, frequent the _Rose and Crown_, in the Poultry, and the _Dagger_,
+in Cheapside.
+
+     "_Enter Hobson, Two Prentices, and a Boy._
+
+     "1 PREN. Prithee, fellow Goodman, set forth the ware, and
+     looke to the shop a little. I'll but drink a cup of wine
+     with a customer, at the Rose and Crown in the Poultry, and
+     come again presently.
+
+     "2 PREN. I must needs step to the _Dagger in Cheape_, to
+     send a letter into the country unto my father. Stay, boy,
+     you are the youngest prentice; look you to the shop."
+
+In the reign of Richard II., it was ordained by statute that "the
+wines of Gascoine, of Osey, and of Spain," as well as Rhenish wines,
+should not be sold above sixpence the gallon; and the taverners of
+this period frequently became very rich, and filled the highest civic
+offices, as sheriffs and mayors. The fraternity of vintners and
+taverners, anciently the Merchant Wine Tonners of Gascoyne, became the
+Craft of Vintners, incorporated by Henry VI. as the Vintners' Company.
+
+The curious old ballad of London Lyckpenny, written in the reign of
+Henry V., by Lydgate, a monk of Bury, confirms the statement of the
+prices in the reign of Richard II. He comes to Cornhill, when the
+wine-drawer of the Pope's Head tavern, standing without the
+street-door, it being the custom of drawers thus to waylay passengers,
+takes the man by the hand, and says,--"Will you drink a pint of wine?"
+whereunto the countryman answers, "A penny spend I may," and so drank
+his wine. "For bread nothing did he pay"--for that was given in. This
+is Stow's account: the ballad makes the taverner, not the drawer,
+invite the countryman; and the latter, instead of getting bread for
+nothing, complains of having to go away hungry:--
+
+     "The taverner took me by the sleeve,
+       'Sir,' saith he, 'will you our wine assay?'
+     I answered, 'That cannot much me grieve,
+       A penny can do no more than it may;'
+       I drank a pint, and for it did pay;
+     Yet, sore a-hungered from thence I yede,
+     And, wanting money, I could not speed," etc.
+
+There was no eating at taverns at this time, beyond a crust to relish
+the wine; and he who wished to dine before he drank, had to go to the
+cook's.
+
+The furnishing of the Boar's Head, in Eastcheap, with sack, in Henry
+IV., is an anachronism of Shakspeare's; for the vintners kept neither
+sacks, muscadels, malmseys, bastards, alicants, nor any other wines
+but white and claret, until 1543. All the other sweet wines before
+that time, were sold at the apothecaries' shops for no other use but
+for medicine.
+
+Taking it as the picture of a tavern a century later, we see the
+alterations which had taken place. The single drawer or taverner of
+Lydgate's day is now changed to a troop of waiters, besides the under
+skinker, or tapster. Eating was no longer confined to the cook's row,
+for we find in Falstaff's bill "a capon 2_s._ 2_d._; sack, two
+gallons, 5_s._ 8_d._; anchovies and sack, after supper, 2_s._ 6_d._;
+bread, one halfpenny." And there were evidently _different rooms_[27]
+for the guests, as Francis[28] bids a brother waiter "Look down in the
+Pomgranite;" for which purpose they had windows, or loopholes,
+affording a view from the upper to the lower apartments. The custom of
+naming the principal rooms in taverns and hotels is usual to the
+present day.
+
+Taverns and wine-bibbing had greatly increased in the reign of Edward
+VI., when it was enacted by statute that no more than 8_d._ a gallon
+should be taken for any French wines, and the consumption limited in
+private houses to ten gallons each person yearly; that there should
+not be "any more or great number of taverns in London of such tavernes
+or wine sellers by retaile, above the number of fouretye tavernes or
+wyne sellers," being less than two, upon an average to each parish.
+Nor did this number much increase afterwards; for in a return made to
+the Vintners' Company, late in Elizabeth's reign, there were only one
+hundred and sixty-eight taverns in the whole city and suburbs.
+
+It seems to have been the fashion among old ballad-mongers, street
+chroniclers, and journalists, to sing the praises of the taverns in
+rough-shod verse, and that lively rhyme which, in our day, is termed
+"patter." Here are a few specimens, of various periods.
+
+In a black-letter poem of Queen Elizabeth's reign, entitled _Newes
+from Bartholomew Fayre_, there is this curious enumeration:
+
+     "There hath been great sale and utterance of Wine,
+     Besides Beere, and Ale, and Ipocras fine,
+     In every country, region, and nation,
+     But chiefly in Billingsgate, at the _Salutation_;
+     And the _Bore's Head_, near London Stone;
+     The _Swan_ at Dowgate, a tavern well knowne;
+     The _Miter_ in Cheape, and then the _Bull Head_;
+     And many like places that make noses red;
+     The _Bore's Head_ in Old Fish-street; _Three Cranes_ in the Vintry;
+     And now, of late, St. Martins in the Sentree;
+     The _Windmill_ in Lothbury; the _Ship_ at th' Exchange;
+     _King's Head_ in New Fish-street, where roysterers do range;
+     The _Mermaid_ in Cornhill; _Red Lion_ in the Strand;
+     _Three Tuns_ in Newgate Market; Old Fish-street at the _Swan_."
+
+This enumeration omits the Mourning Bush, adjoining Aldersgate,
+containing divers large rooms and lodgings, and shown in Aggas's plan
+of London, in 1560. There are also omitted The Pope's Head, The London
+Stone, The Dagger, The Rose and Crown, etc. Several of the above
+_Signs_ have been continued to our time in the very places mentioned;
+but nearly all the original buildings were destroyed in the Great Fire
+of 1666; and the few which escaped have been re-built, or so altered,
+that their former appearance has altogether vanished.
+
+The following list of taverns is given by Thomas Heywood, the author
+of the fine old play of _A Woman killed with Kindness_. Heywood, who
+wrote in 1608, is telling us what particular houses are frequented by
+particular classes of people:--
+
+     "The Gentry to the King's Head,
+     The nobles to the Crown,
+     The Knights unto the Golden Fleece,
+     And to the Plough the Clown.
+     The churchman to the Mitre,
+     The shepherd to the Star,
+     The gardener hies him to the Rose,
+     To the Drum the man of war;
+     To the Feathers, ladies you; the Globe
+     The seaman doth not scorn;
+     The usurer to the Devil, and
+     The townsman to the Horn.
+     The huntsman to the White Hart,
+     To the Ship the merchants go,
+     But you who do the Muses love,
+     The sign called River Po.
+     The banquerout to the World's End,
+     The fool to the Fortune Pie,
+     Unto the Mouth the oyster-wife,
+     The fiddler to the Pie.
+     The punk unto the Cockatrice,
+     The Drunkard to the Vine,
+     The beggar to the Bush, then meet,
+     And with Duke Humphrey dine."
+
+In the _British Apollo_ of 1710, is the following doggrel:--
+
+     "I'm amused at the signs,
+       As I pass through the town,
+     To see the odd mixture--
+       A Magpie and Crown,
+     The Whale and the Crow,
+       The Razor and the Hen,
+     The Leg and Seven Stars,
+     The Axe and the Bottle,
+       The Tun and the Lute,
+     The Eagle and Child,
+       The Shovel and Boot."
+
+In _Look about You_, 1600, we read that "the drawers kept sugar folded
+up in paper, ready for those who called for _sack_;" and we further
+find in another old tract, that the custom existed of bringing two
+cups of _silver_ in case the wine should be wanted diluted; and this
+was done by rose-water and sugar, generally about a pennyworth. A
+sharper in the _Bellman of London_, described as having decoyed a
+countryman to a tavern, "calls for two pintes of sundry wines, the
+drawer setting the wine with _two cups_, as the custome is, the
+sharper tastes of one pinte, no matter which, and finds fault with the
+wine, saying, ''tis too hard, but rose-water and sugar would send it
+downe merrily'--and for that purpose takes up one of the cups, telling
+the stranger he is well acquainted with the boy at the barre, and can
+have two-pennyworth of rose-water for a penny of him; and so steps
+from his seate: the stranger suspects no harme, because the fawne
+guest leaves his cloake at the end of the table behind him,--but the
+other takes good care not to return, and it is then found that he
+hath stolen ground, and out-leaped the stranger more feet than he can
+recover in haste, for the cup is leaped with him, for which the
+wood-cock, that is taken in the springe, must pay fifty shillings, or
+three pounds, and hath nothing but an old threadbare cloake not worth
+two groats to make amends for his losses."
+
+Bishop Earle, who wrote in the first half of the seventeenth century,
+has left this "character" of a tavern of his time. "A tavern is a
+degree, or (if you will) a pair of stairs above an alehouse, where men
+are drunk with more credit and apology. If the vintner's nose be at
+the door, it is a sign sufficient, but the absence of this is supplied
+by the ivy-bush. It is a broacher of more news than hogsheads, and
+more jests than news, which are sucked up here by some spungy brain,
+and from thence squeezed into a comedy. Men come here to make merry,
+but indeed make a noise, and this music above is answered with a
+clinking below. The drawers are the civilest people in it, men of good
+bringing up, and howsoever we esteem them, none can boast more justly
+of their high calling. 'Tis the best theatre of natures, where they
+are truly acted, not played, and the business as in the rest of the
+world up and down, to wit, from the bottom of the cellar to the great
+chamber. A melancholy man would find here matter to work upon, to see
+heads, as brittle as glasses, and often broken; men come hither to
+quarrel, and come here to be made friends; and if Plutarch will lend
+me his simile, it is even Telephus's sword that makes wounds, and
+cures them. It is the common consumption of the afternoon, and the
+murderer or the maker away of a rainy day. It is the torrid zone that
+scorches the face, and tobacco the gunpowder that blows it up. Much
+harm would be done if the charitable vintner had not water ready for
+the flames. A house of sin you may call it, but not a house of
+darkness, for the candles are never out; and it is like those
+countries far in the north, where it is as clear at midnight as at
+mid-day. After a long sitting it becomes like a street in a dashing
+shower, where the spouts are flushing above, and the conduits running
+below, etc. To give you the total reckoning of it, it is the busy
+man's recreation, the idle man's business, the melancholy man's
+sanctuary, the stranger's welcome, the inns-of-court man's
+entertainment, the scholar's kindness, and the citizen's courtesy. It
+is the study of sparkling wits, and a cup of comedy their book, whence
+we leave them."
+
+The conjunction of vintner and victualler had now become common, and
+would require other accommodation than those mentioned by the Bishop,
+as is shown in Massinger's _New Way to pay Old Debts_, where Justice
+Greedy makes Tapwell's keeping no victuals in his house as an excuse
+for pulling down his sign:
+
+     "Thou never hadst in thy house to stay men's stomachs,
+     A piece of Suffolk cheese, or gammon of bacon,
+     Or any esculent as the learned call it,
+     For their emolument, but _sheer drink only_.
+     For which gross fault I here do damn thy licence,
+     Forbidding thee henceforth to tap or draw;
+     For instantly I will in mine own person,
+     Command the constable to pull down thy sign,
+     And do't before I eat."
+
+And the decayed vinter, who afterwards applies to Wellborn for payment
+of his tavern score, answers, on his inquiring who he is:
+
+     "A decay'd vintner, Sir;
+     That might have thriv'd, but that your worship broke me
+     With trusting you with muscadine and eggs,
+     And _five-pound suppers_, with your after-drinkings,
+     When you lodged upon the Bankside."
+
+Dekker tells us, near this time, of regular ordinaries of three kinds:
+1st. An ordinary of the longest reckoning, whither most of your
+courtly gallants do resort: 2nd. A twelvepenny ordinary, frequented by
+the justice of the peace, a young Knight; and a threepenny ordinary,
+to which your London usurer, your stale bachelor, and your thrifty
+attorney, doth resort. Then Dekker tells us of a custom, especially in
+the City, to send presents of wine from one room to another, as a
+complimentary mark of friendship. "Inquire," directs he, "what
+gallants sup in the next room; and if they be of your acquaintance, do
+not, after the City fashion, send them in a pottle of wine and your
+name." Then, we read of Master Brook sending to the Castle Inn at
+Windsor, a morning draught of sack.
+
+Ned Ward, in the _London Spy_, 1709, describes several famous taverns,
+and among them the Rose, anciently, the Rose and Crown, as famous for
+good wine. "There was no parting," he says, "without a glass; so we
+went into the Rose Tavern in the Poultry, where the wine, according to
+its merit, had justly gained a reputation; and there, in a snug room,
+warmed with brash and faggot, over a quart of good claret, we laughed
+over our night's adventure."
+
+"From hence, pursuant to my friend's inclination, we adjourned to the
+sign of the Angel, in Fenchurch-street, where the vintner, like a
+double-dealing citizen, condescended as well to draw carmen's comfort
+as the consolatory juice of the vine.
+
+"Having at the King's Head well freighted the hold of our vessels with
+excellent food and delicious wine, at a small expense, we scribbled
+the following lines with chalk upon the wall." (See page 98.)
+
+The tapster was a male vendor, not "a woman who had the care of the
+tap," as Tyrwhitt states. In the 17th century ballad, _The Times_,
+occurs:
+
+     "The bar-boyes and the tapsters
+       Leave drawing of their beere,
+     And running forth in haste they cry,
+       'See, where Mull'd Sack comes here!'"
+
+The ancient drawers and tapsters were now superseded by the barmaid,
+and a number of waiters: Ward describes the barmaid as "all ribbon,
+lace, and feathers, and making such a noise with her bell and her
+tongue together, that had half-a-dozen paper-mills been at work within
+three yards of her, they'd have signified no more to her clamorous
+voice than so many lutes to a drum, which alarmed two or three nimble
+fellows aloft, who shot themselves downstairs with as much celerity as
+a mountebank's mercury upon a rope from the top of a church-steeple,
+every one charged with a mouthful of coming, coming, coming." The
+barmaid (generally the vintner's daughter) is described as "bred at
+the dancing-school, becoming a bar well, stepping a minuet finely,
+playing sweetly on the virginals, 'John come kiss me now, now, now,'
+and as proud as she was handsome."
+
+Tom Brown sketches a flirting barmaid of the same time, "as a fine
+lady that stood pulling a rope, and screaming like a peacock against
+rainy weather, pinned up by herself in a little pew, all people bowing
+to her as they passed by, as if she was a goddess set up to be
+worshipped, armed with the chalk and sponge, (which are the principal
+badges that belong to that honourable station you beheld her in,) was
+the _barmaid_."
+
+Of the nimbleness of the waiters, Ward says in another place--"That
+the chief use he saw in the Monument was, for the improvement of
+vintners' boys and drawers, who came every week to exercise their
+supporters, and learn the tavern trip, by running up to the balcony
+and down again."
+
+Owen Swan, at the Black Swan tavern, Bartholomew Lane, is thus
+apostrophized by Tom Brown for the goodness of his wine:--
+
+     "Thee, _Owen_, since the God of wine has made
+     Thee steward of the gay carousing trade,
+     Whose art decaying nature still supplies,
+     Warms the faint pulse, and sparkles in our eyes.
+     Be bountiful like him, bring t'other _flask_,
+     Were the stairs wider we would have the _cask_.
+     This pow'r we from the God of wine derive,
+     Draw such as this, and I'll pronounce thou'lt live."
+
+
+THE BEAR AT THE BRIDGE FOOT.
+
+This celebrated tavern, situated in Southwark, on the west side of the
+foot of London Bridge, opposite the end of St. Olave's or
+Tooley-street, was a house of considerable antiquity. We read in the
+accounts of the Steward of Sir John Howard, March 6th, 1463-4 (Edward
+IV.), "Item, payd for red wyn at the Bere in Southwerke, iij_d._"
+Garrard, in a letter to Lord Strafford, dated 1633 intimates that
+"all back-doors to taverns on the Thames are commanded to be shut up,
+only the Bear at Bridge Foot is exempted, by reason of the passage to
+Greenwich," which Mr. Burn suspects to have been "the avenue or way
+called Bear Alley."
+
+The Cavaliers' Ballad on the funeral pageant of Admiral Deane, killed
+June 2nd, 1653, while passing by water to Henry the Seventh's Chapel,
+Westminster, has the following allusion:--
+
+     "From Greenwich towards the Bear at Bridge foot,
+     He was wafted with wind that had water to't,
+     But I think they brought the devil to boot,
+                             Which nobody can deny."
+
+Pepys was told by a waterman, going through the bridge, 24th Feb.
+1666-7, that the mistress of the Beare Tavern, at the Bridge foot,
+"did lately fling herself into the Thames, and drown herself."
+
+The Bear must have been a characterless house, for among its
+gallantries was the following, told by Wycherley to Major Pack, "just
+for the oddness of the thing." It was this: "There was a house at the
+Bridge Foot where persons of better condition used to resort for
+pleasure and privacy. The liquor the ladies and their lovers used to
+drink at these meetings was canary; and among other compliments the
+gentlemen paid their mistresses, this it seems was always one, to take
+hold of the bottom of their smocks, and pouring the wine through that
+filter, feast their imaginations with the thought of what gave the
+zesto, and so drink a health to the toast."
+
+The Bear Tavern was taken down in December, 1761, when the labourers
+found gold and silver coins, of the time of Elizabeth, to a
+considerable value. The wall that enclosed the tavern was not cleared
+away until 1764, when the ground was cleared and levelled quite up to
+Pepper Alley stairs. There is a Token of the Bear Tavern, in the
+Beaufoy cabinet, which, with other rare Southwark tokens, was found
+under the floors in taking down St. Olave's Grammar School in 1839.
+
+
+MERMAID TAVERNS.
+
+The celebrated Mermaid, in Bread-street, with the history of "the
+Mermaid Club," has been described in Vol. I. pp. 8-10; its interest
+centres in this famous company of Wits.
+
+There was another Mermaid, in Cheapside, next to Paul's Gate, and
+still another in Cornhill. Of the latter we find in Burn's Beaufoy
+Catalogue, that the vintner, buried in St. Peter's, Cornhill, in 1606,
+"gave forty shillings yearly to the parson for preaching four sermons
+every year, so long as the lease of the Mermaid, in Cornhill, (the
+tavern so called,) should endure. He also gave to the poor of the said
+parish thirteen penny loaves every Sunday, during the aforesaid
+lease." There are tokens of both these taverns in the Beaufoy
+Collection.
+
+
+THE BOAR'S HEAD TAVERN.
+
+This celebrated Shakspearean tavern was situated in Great Eastcheap,
+and is first mentioned in the time of Richard II.; the scene of the
+revels of Falstaff and Henry V., when Prince of Wales, in
+Shakspeare's Henry IV., Part 2. Stow relates a riot in "the cooks'
+dwellings" here on St. John's eve, 1410, by Princes John and Thomas.
+The tavern was destroyed in the Great Fire of 1666, but was rebuilt in
+two years, as attested by a boar's head cut in stone, with the
+initials of the landlord, I. T., and the date 1668, above the
+first-floor window. This sign-stone is now in the Guildhall library.
+The house stood between Small-alley and St. Michael's-lane, and in the
+rear looked upon St. Michael's churchyard, where was buried a
+_drawer_, or waiter, at the tavern, d. 1720: in the church was
+interred John Rhodoway, "Vintner at the Bore's Head," 1623.
+
+Maitland, in 1739, mentions the Boar's Head, as "the chief tavern in
+London" under the sign. Goldsmith (_Essays_), Boswell (_Life of Dr.
+Johnson_), and Washington Irving (_Sketch-book_), have idealized the
+house as the identical place which Falstaff frequented, forgetting its
+destruction in the Great Fire. The site of the Boar's Head is very
+nearly that of the statue of King William IV.
+
+In 1834, Mr. Kempe, F.S.A., exhibited to the Society of Antiquaries a
+carved oak figure of Sir John Falstaff, in the costume of the 16th
+century; it had supported an ornamental bracket over one side of the
+door of the Boar's Head, a figure of Prince Henry sustaining that on
+the other. The Falstaff was the property of one Shelton, a brazier,
+whose ancestors had lived in the shop he then occupied in Great
+Eastcheap, since the Great Fire. He well remembered the last
+Shakspearean grand dinner-party at the Boar's Head, about 1784: at an
+earlier party, Mr. Wilberforce was present. A boar's head, with tusks,
+which had been suspended in a room of the tavern, perhaps the
+Half-Moon or Pomegranate, (see Henry IV. act ii. sc. 4,) at the Great
+Fire, fell down with the ruins of the house, and was conveyed to
+Whitechapel Mount, where, many years after, it was recovered, and
+identified with its former locality. At a public house, No. 12,
+Miles-lane, was long preserved a tobacco-box, with a painting of the
+original Boar's Head Tavern on the lid.[29]
+
+In High-street, Southwark, in the rear of Nos. 25 and 26, was formerly
+the _Boar's Head Inn_, part of Sir John Falstolf's benefaction to
+Magdalen College, Oxford. Sir John was one of the bravest generals in
+the French wars, under the fourth, fifth, and sixth Henries; but he is
+not the Falstaff of Shakspeare. In the _Reliquiæ Hearnianæ_, edited by
+Dr. Bliss, is the following entry relative to this bequest:--
+
+     "1721. June 2.--The reason why they cannot give so good an
+     account of the benefaction of Sir John Fastolf to Magd.
+     Coll. is, because he gave it to the founder, and left it to
+     his management, so that 'tis suppos'd 'twas swallow'd up in
+     his own estate that he settled it upon the college. However,
+     the college knows this, that the _Boar's Head_ in Southwark,
+     which was then an inn, and still retains the name, tho'
+     divided into several tenements (which bring the college
+     about 150_l._ per ann.), was part of Sir John's gift."
+
+The above property was for many years sublet to the family of the
+author of the present Work, at the rent of 150_l._ per annum; the
+cellar, finely vaulted, and excellent for wine, extended beneath the
+entire court, consisting of two rows of tenements, and two end houses,
+with galleries, the entrance being from the High-street. The premises
+were taken down for the New London Bridge approaches. There was also
+a noted Boar's Head in Old Fish-street.
+
+Can he forget who has read Goldsmith's nineteenth Essay, his reverie
+at the Boar's Head?--when, having confabulated with the landlord till
+long after "the watchman had gone twelve," and suffused in the potency
+of his wine a mutation in his ideas, of the person of the host into
+that of Dame Quickly, mistress of the tavern in the days of Sir John,
+is promptly effected, and the liquor they were drinking seemed shortly
+converted into sack and sugar. Mrs. Quickly's recital of the history
+of herself and Doll Tearsheet, whose frailties in the flesh caused
+their being both sent to the house of correction, charged with having
+allowed the famed Boar's Head to become a low brothel; her speedy
+departure to the world of Spirits; and Falstaff's impertinences as
+affecting Madame Proserpine; are followed by an enumeration of persons
+who had held tenancy of the house since her time. The last hostess of
+note was, according to Goldsmith's account, Jane Rouse, who, having
+unfortunately quarrelled with one of her neighbours, a woman of high
+repute in the parish for sanctity, but as jealous as Chaucer's Wife of
+Bath, was by her accused of witchcraft, taken from her own bar,
+condemned, and executed accordingly!--These were times, indeed, when
+women could not scold in safety. These and other prudential
+apophthegms on the part of Dame Quickly, seem to have dissolved
+Goldsmith's stupor of ideality; on his awaking, the landlord is really
+the landlord, and not the hostess of a former day, when "Falstaff was
+in fact an agreeable old fellow, forgetting age, and showing the way
+to be young at sixty-five. Age, care, wisdom, reflection, begone! I
+give you to the winds. Let's have t'other bottle. Here's to the
+memory of Shakspeare, Falstaff, and all the merry men of
+Eastcheap."[30]
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[27] This negatives a belief common in our day that a Covent Garden
+tavern was the first divided into rooms for guests.
+
+[28] A successor of Francis, a waiter at the Boar's Head, in the last
+century, had a tablet with an inscription in St. Michael's
+Crooked-lane churchyard, just at the back of the tavern; setting forth
+that he died, "drawer at the Boar's Head Tavern, in Great Eastcheap,"
+and was noted for his honesty and sobriety; in that--
+
+     "Tho' nurs'd among full hogsheads he defied
+     The charms of wine, as well as others' pride."
+
+He also practised the singular virtue of drawing good wine and of
+taking care to "fill his pots," as appears by the closing lines of the
+inscription:--
+
+     "Ye that on Bacchus have a like dependance,
+     Pray copy Bob in measure and attendance.'"
+
+
+[29] _Curiosities of London_, p. 265.
+
+[30] _Burn's Catalogue of the Beaufoy Tokens._
+
+
+THREE CRANES IN THE VINTRY.
+
+This was one of Ben Jonson's taverns, and has already been
+incidentally mentioned. Strype describes it as situate in "New
+Queen-street, commonly called the Three Cranes in the Vintry, a good
+open street, especially that part next Cheapside, which is best built
+and inhabited. At the lowest end of the street, next the Thames, is a
+pair of stairs, the usual place for the Lord Mayor and Aldermen to
+take water at, to go to Westminster Hall, for the new Lord Mayor to be
+sworn before the Barons of the Exchequer. This place, with the Three
+Cranes, is now of some account for the costermongers, where they have
+their warehouse for their fruit." In Scott's _Kenilworth_ we hear much
+of this Tavern.
+
+
+LONDON STONE TAVERN.
+
+This tavern, situated in Cannon-street, near the Stone, is stated, but
+not correctly, to have been the oldest in London. Here was formed a
+society, afterwards the famous Robin Hood, of which the history was
+published in 1716, where it is stated to have originated in a meeting
+of the editor's grandfather with the great Sir Hugh Myddelton, of New
+River memory. King Charles II. was introduced to the society,
+disguised, by Sir Hugh, and the King liked it so well, that he came
+thrice afterwards. "He had," continues the narrative, "a piece of
+black silk over his left cheek, which almost covered it; and his
+eyebrows, which were quite black, he had, by some artifice or other,
+converted to a light brown, or rather flaxen colour; and had otherwise
+disguised himself so effectually in his apparel and his looks, that
+nobody knew him but Sir Hugh, by whom he was introduced." This is very
+circumstantial, but is very doubtful; since Sir Hugh Myddelton died
+when Charles was in his tenth year.
+
+
+THE ROBIN HOOD.
+
+Mr. Akerman describes a Token of the Robin Hood Tavern:--"IOHN
+THOMLINSON AT THE. An archer fitting an arrow to his bow; a small
+figure behind, holding an arrow.--Rx. IN CHISWELL STREET, 1667. In
+the centre, HIS HALFE PENNY, and I. S. T." Mr. Akerman continues:
+
+"It is easy to perceive what is intended by the representation on the
+obverse of this token. Though 'Little John,' we are told, stood
+upwards of six good English feet without his shoes, he is here
+depicted to suit the popular humour--a dwarf in size, compared with
+his friend and leader, the bold outlaw. The proximity of
+Chiswell-street to Finsbury-fields may have led to the adoption of the
+sign, which was doubtless at a time when archery was considered an
+elegant as well as an indispensable accomplishment of an English
+gentleman. It is far from obsolete now, as several low public-houses
+and beer-shops in the vicinity of London testify. One of them
+exhibits Robin Hood and his companion dressed in the most approved
+style of 'Astley's,' and underneath the group is the following
+irresistible invitation to slake your thirst:--
+
+     "Ye archers bold and yeomen good,
+     Stop and drink with Robin Hood:
+     If Robin Hood is not at home,
+     Stop and drink with little John.
+
+"Our London readers could doubtless supply the variorum copies of this
+elegant distich, which, as this is an age for 'Family Shakspeares,'
+modernized Chaucers, and new versions of 'Robin Hood's Garland,' we
+recommend to the notice of the next editor of the ballads in praise of
+the Sherwood freebooter."
+
+
+PONTACK'S, ABCHURCH LANE.
+
+After the destruction of the White Bear Tavern, in the Great Fire of
+1666, the proximity of the site for all purposes of business, induced
+M. Pontack, the son of the President of Bordeaux, owner of a famous
+claret district, to establish a tavern, with all the novelties of
+French cookery, with his father's head as a sign, whence it was
+popularly called "Pontack's Head." The dinners were from four or five
+shillings a head "to a guinea, or what sum you pleased."
+
+Swift frequented the tavern, and writes to Stella:--"Pontack told us,
+although his wine was so good, he sold it cheaper than others; he took
+but seven shillings a flask. Are not these pretty rates?" In the
+_Hind and Panther Transversed_, we read of drawers:--
+
+     "Sure these honest fellows have no knack
+     Of putting off stum'd claret for Pontack."
+
+The Fellows of the Royal Society dined at Pontack's until 1746, when
+they removed to the Devil Tavern. There is a Token of the White Bear
+in the Beaufoy collection; and Mr. Burn tells us, from _Metamorphoses
+of the Town_, a rare tract, 1731, of Pontack's "guinea ordinary,"
+"ragout of fatted snails," and "chickens not two hours from the
+shell." In January, 1735, Mrs. Susannah Austin, who lately kept
+Pontack's, and had acquired a considerable fortune, was married to
+William Pepys, banker, in Lombard-street.
+
+
+POPE'S HEAD TAVERN.
+
+This noted tavern, which gave name to Pope's Head Alley, leading from
+Cornhill to Lombard-street, is mentioned as early as the 4th Edward
+IV. (1464) in the account of a wager between an Alicant goldsmith and
+an English goldsmith; the Alicant stranger contending in the tavern
+that "Englishmen were not so cunning in workmanship of goldsmithry as
+Alicant strangers;" when work was produced by both, and the Englishman
+gained the wager. The tavern was left in 1615, by Sir William Craven
+to the Merchant Tailors' Company. Pepys refers to "the fine painted
+room" here in 1668-9. In the tavern, April 14, 1718, Quin, the actor,
+killed in self-defence, his fellow-comedian, Bowen, a clever but
+hot-headed Irishman, who was jealous of Quin's reputation: in a moment
+of great anger, he sent for Quin to the tavern, and as soon as he had
+entered the room, Bowen placed his back against the door, drew his
+sword, and bade Quin draw his. Quin, having mildly remonstrated to no
+purpose, drew in his own defence, and endeavoured to disarm his
+antagonist. Bowen received a wound, of which he died in three days,
+having acknowledged his folly and madness, when the loss of blood had
+reduced him to reason. Quin was tried and acquitted. (_Cunningham,
+abridged._) The Pope's Head Tavern was in existence in 1756.
+
+
+THE OLD SWAN, THAMES-STREET,
+
+Was more than five hundred years ago a house for public entertainment:
+for, in 1323, 16 Edw. II., Rose Wrytell bequeathed "the tenement of
+olde tyme called the Swanne on the Hope in Thames-street," in the
+parish of St. Mary-at-hill, to maintain a priest at the altar of St.
+Edmund, King and Martyr, "for her soul, and the souls of her husband,
+her father, and mother:" and the purposes of her bequest were
+established; for, in the parish book, in 1499, is entered a
+disbursement of fourpence, "for a cresset to Rose Wrytell's chantry."
+Eleanor Cobham, Duchess of Gloucester, in 1440, in her public penance
+for witchcraft and treason, landed at Old Swan, bearing a large taper,
+her feet bare, etc.
+
+Stow, in 1598, mentions the Old Swan as a great brew-house. Taylor,
+the Water-poet, advertised the professor and author of the Barmoodo
+and Vtopian tongues, dwelling "at the Old Swanne, neare London Bridge,
+who will teach them at are willing to learne, with agility and
+facility."
+
+In the scurrilous Cavalier ballad of Admiral Deane's Funeral, by
+water, from Greenwich to Westminster, in June, 1653, it is said:--
+
+     "The Old Swan, as he passed by,
+     Said she would sing him a dirge, lye down and die:
+     Wilt thou sing to a bit of a body? quoth I,
+                           Which nobody can deny."
+
+The Old Swan Tavern and its landing-stairs were destroyed in the Great
+Fire; but rebuilt. Its Token, in the Beaufoy Collection, is one of the
+rarest, of large size.
+
+
+COCK TAVERN, THREADNEEDLE-STREET.
+
+This noted house, which faced the north gate of the old Royal
+Exchange, was long celebrated for the excellence of its soups, which
+were served at an economical price, in silver. One of its proprietors
+was, it is believed, John Ellis, an eccentric character, and a writer
+of some reputation, who died in 1791. Eight stanzas addressed to him
+in praise of the tavern, commenced thus:--
+
+     "When to Ellis I write, I in verse must indite,
+       Come Phoebus, and give me a knock,
+     For on Fryday at eight, all behind 'the 'Change gate,'
+       Master Ellis will be at 'The Cock.'"
+
+After comparing it to other houses, the Pope's Head, the King's Arms,
+the Black Swan, and the Fountain, and declaring the Cock the best, it
+ends:
+
+     "'Tis time to be gone, for the 'Change has struck one:
+       O 'tis an impertinent clock!
+     For with Ellis I'd stay from December to May;
+       I'll stick to my Friend, and 'The Cock!'"
+
+This house was taken down in 1841; when, in a claim for compensation
+made by the proprietor, the trade in three years was proved to have
+been 344,720 basins of various soups--viz. 166,240 mock turtle, 3,920
+giblet, 59,360 ox-tail, 31,072 bouilli, 84,128 gravy and other soups:
+sometimes 500 basins of soup were sold in a day.
+
+
+CROWN TAVERN, THREADNEEDLE-STREET.
+
+Upon the site of the present chief entrance to the Bank of England, in
+Threadneedle-street, stood the Crown Tavern, "behind the 'Change:" it
+was frequented by the Fellows of the Royal Society, when they met at
+Gresham College hard by. The Crown was burnt in the Great Fire, but
+was rebuilt; and about a century since, at this tavern, "it was not
+unusual to draw a butt of mountain wine, containing 120 gallons, in
+gills, in a morning."--_Sir John Hawkins._
+
+Behind the Change, we read in the _Connoisseur_, 1754, a man worth a
+plum used to order a twopenny mess of broth with a boiled chop in it;
+placing the chop between the two crusts of a half-penny roll, he would
+wrap it up in his check handkerchief, and carry it away for the
+morrow's dinner.
+
+
+THE KING'S HEAD TAVERN, IN THE POULTRY.
+
+This Tavern, which stood at the western extremity of the Stocks'
+Market, was not first known by the sign of the King's Head, but the
+Rose: Machin, in his Diary, Jan. 5, 1560, thus mentions it: "A
+gentleman arrested for debt; Master Cobham, with divers gentlemen and
+serving-men, took him from the officers, and carried him to the Rose
+Tavern, where so great a fray, both the sheriffs were feign to come,
+and from the Rose Tavern took all the gentlemen and their servants,
+and carried them to the Compter."
+
+The house was distinguished by the device of a large, well-painted
+Rose, erected over a doorway, which was the only indication in the
+main street of such an establishment. In the superior houses of the
+metropolis in the sixteenth century, room was gained in the rear of
+the street-line, the space in front being economized, so that the line
+of shops might not be interrupted. Upon this plan, the larger taverns
+in the City were constructed, wherever the ground was sufficiently
+spacious behind: hence it was that the Poultry tavern of which we are
+speaking, was approached through a long, narrow, covered passage,
+opening into a well-lighted quadrangle, around which were the
+tavern-rooms. The sign of the Rose appears to have been a costly work,
+since there was the fragment of a leaf of an old account-book
+preserved, when the ruins of the house were cleared after the Great
+Fire, on which were written these entries:--"Pd. to Hoggestreete, the
+Duche Paynter, for ye Picture of a Rose, with a Standing-bowle and
+Glasses, for a Signe, xx_li._ besides Diners and Drinkings. Also for a
+large Table of Walnut-tree, for a Frame; and for Iron-worke and
+Hanging the Picture, v_li._" The artist who is referred to in this
+memorandum, could be no other than Samuel Van Hoogstraten, a painter
+of the middle of the seventeenth century, whose works in England are
+very rare. He was one of the many excellent artists of the period,
+who, as Walpole contemptuously says, "painted still-life, oranges and
+lemons, plate, damask curtains, cloth-of-gold, and that medley of
+familiar objects that strike the ignorant vulgar."
+
+But, beside the claims of the painter, the sign of the Rose cost the
+worthy tavern-keeper, a still further outlay, in the form of divers
+treatings and advances made to a certain rather loose man of letters
+of his acquaintance, possessed of more wit than money, and of more
+convivial loyalty than either discretion or principle. Master Roger
+Blythe frequently patronized the Rose Tavern as his favourite
+ordinary. Like Falstaff, he was "an infinite thing" upon his host's
+score; and, like his prototype also, there was no probability of his
+ever discharging the account. When the Tavern-sign was about to be
+erected, this Master Blythe contributed the poetry to it, after the
+fashion of the time, which he swore was the envy of all the Rose
+Taverns in London, and of all the poets who frequented them. "There's
+your Rose at Temple Bar, and your Rose in Covent-garden, and the Rose
+in Southwark: all of them indifferent good for wits, and for drawing
+neat wines too; but, smite me, Master King," he would say, "if I know
+one of them all fit to be set in the same hemisphere with yours! No!
+for a bountiful host, a most sweet mistress, unsophisticated wines,
+honest measures, a choicely-painted sign, and a witty verse to set it
+forth withal,--commend me to the Rose Tavern in the Poultry!"
+
+Even the tavern-door exhibited a joyous frontispiece; since the
+entrance was flanked by two columns twisted with vines carved in wood,
+which supported a small square gallery over the portico surrounded by
+handsome iron-work. On the front of this gallery was erected the sign,
+in a frame of similar ornaments. It consisted of a central compartment
+containing the Rose, behind which appeared a tall silver cup, called
+in the language of the time "a standing-bowl," with drinking-glasses.
+Beneath the painting was this inscription:--
+
+     "THIS IS
+     THE ROSE TAVERNE
+     IN THE POULTREY:
+     KEPT BY
+     WILLIAM KING,
+     CITIZEN AND VINTNER.
+
+     "This Taverne's like its Signe--a lustie Rose,
+     A sight of joy that sweetness doth enclose:
+     The daintie Flow're well-pictur'd here is seene,
+     But for its rarest sweetes--Come, Searche Within!"
+
+The authorities of St. Peter-upon-Cornhill soon determined, on the
+10th of May, 1660, in Vestry, "that the King's Arms, in painted-glass,
+should be refreshed, and forthwith be set up by the Churchwarden at
+the parish-charges; with whatsoever he giveth to the glazier as a
+gratuity, for his care in keeping of them all this while."
+
+The host of the Rose resolved at once to add a Crown to his sign, with
+the portrait of Charles, wearing it in the centre of the flower, and
+openly to name his tavern "The Royal Rose and King's Head." He
+effected his design, partly by the aid of one of the many excellent
+pencils which the time supplied, and partly by the inventive muse of
+Master Blythe, which soon furnished him with a new poesy. There is not
+any further information extant concerning the painting, but the
+following remains of an entry on another torn fragment of the old
+account-book already mentioned, seem to refer to the poetical
+inscription beneath the picture:-- ... "_on ye Night when he made ye
+Verses for my new Signe, a Soper, and v. Peeces_." The verses
+themselves were as follow:--
+
+     "Gallants, Rejoice!--This Flow're is now full-blowne;
+     'Tis a Rose--Noble better'd by a Crowne;
+     All you who love the Embleme and the Signe,
+     Enter, and prove our Loyaltie and Wine."
+
+Beside this inscription, Master King also recorded the auspicious
+event referred to, by causing his painter to introduce into the
+picture a broad-sheet, as if lying on the table with the cup and
+glasses--on which appeared the title "_A Kalendar for this Happy Yeare
+of Restauration 1660, now newly Imprinted_."
+
+As the time advanced when Charles was to make his entry into the
+metropolis, the streets were resounding with the voices of
+ballad-singers pouring forth loyal songs, and declaring, with the
+whole strength of their lungs, that
+
+     "The King shall enjoy his own again."
+
+Then, there were also to be heard, the ceaseless horns and
+proclamations of hawkers and flying-stationers, publishing the latest
+passages or rumours touching the royal progress; which, whether
+genuine or not, were bought and read, and circulated, by all parties.
+At length all the previous pamphlets and broad-sheets were swallowed
+up by a well-known tract, still extant, which the newsmen of the time
+thus proclaimed:--"Here is _A True Accompt and Narrative--of his
+Majestie's safe Arrival in England--as 'twas reported to the House of
+Commons, on Friday, the 25th day of this present May--with the
+Resolutions of both Houses thereupon:--Also a Letter very lately writ
+from Dover--relating divers remarkable Passages of His Majestie's
+Reception there_."
+
+On every side the signs and iron-work were either refreshed, or newly
+gilt and painted: tapestries and rich hangings, which had engendered
+moth and decay from long disuse, were flung abroad again, that they
+might be ready to grace the coming pageant. The paving of the streets
+was levelled and repaired for the expected cavalcade; and scaffolds
+for spectators were in the course of erection throughout all the line
+of march. Floods of all sorts of wines were consumed, as well in the
+streets as in the taverns; and endless healths were devotedly and
+energetically swallowed, at morning, noon, and night.
+
+At this time Mistress Rebecca King was about to add another member to
+Master King's household: she received from hour to hour accounts of
+the proceedings as they occurred, which so stimulated her curiosity,
+that she declared, first to her gossips, and then to her husband, that
+she "must see the King pass the tavern, or matters might go cross with
+her."
+
+A kind of arbour was made for Mistress Rebecca in the small iron
+gallery surmounting the entrance to the tavern. This arbour was of
+green boughs and flowers, hung round with tapestry and garnished with
+silver plate; and here, when the guns at the Tower announced that
+Charles had entered London, Mistress King took her seat, with her
+children and gossips around her. All the houses in the main streets
+from London-bridge to Whitehall, were decorated like the tavern with
+rich silks and tapestries, hung from every scaffold, balcony, and
+window; which, as Herrick says, turned the town into a park, "made
+green and trimmed with boughs." The road through London, so far as
+Temple-Bar, was lined on the north side by the City Companies, dressed
+in their liveries, and ranged in their respective stands, with their
+banners; and on the south by the soldiers of the trained-bands.
+
+One of the wine conduits stood on the south side of the Stocks'
+Market, over which Sir Robert Viner subsequently erected a triumphal
+statue of Charles II. About this spot, therefore, the crowd collected
+in the Market-place, aided by the fierce loyalty supplied from the
+conduit, appears for a time to have brought the procession to a full
+stop, at the moment when Charles, who rode between his brothers the
+Dukes of York and Gloucester, was nearly opposite to the newly-named
+King's Head Tavern. In this most favourable interval, Master Blythe,
+who stood upon a scaffold in the doorway, took the opportunity of
+elevating a silver cup of wine and shouting out a health to his
+Majesty. His energetical action, as he pointed upwards to the gallery,
+was not lost; and the Duke of Buckingham, who rode immediately before
+the King with General Monk, directed Charles's attention to Mistress
+Rebecca, saying, "Your Majesty's return is here welcomed even by a
+subject as yet unborn." As the procession passed by the door of the
+King's Head Tavern, the King turned towards it, raised himself in his
+stirrups, and gracefully kissed his hand to Mistress Rebecca.
+Immediately such a shout was raised from all who beheld it or heard of
+it, as startled the crowd up to Cheapside conduit; and threw the poor
+woman herself into such an ecstasy, that she was not conscious of
+anything more, until she was safe in her chamber and all danger
+happily over.[31]
+
+The Tavern was rebuilt after the Great Fire, and flourished many
+years. It was long a depôt in the metropolis for turtle; and in the
+quadrangle of the Tavern might be seen scores of turtle, large and
+lively, in huge tanks of water; or laid upward on the stone floor,
+ready for their destination. The Tavern was also noted for large
+dinners of the City Companies and other public bodies. The house was
+refitted in 1852, but has since been closed.
+
+Another noted Poultry Tavern was the Three Cranes, destroyed in the
+Great Fire, but rebuilt, and noticed in 1698, in one of the many paper
+controversies of that day. A fulminating pamphlet, entitled "_Ecclesia
+et Factio_: a Dialogue between Bow Church Steeple and the Exchange
+Grasshopper," elicited "An Answer to the Dragon and Grasshopper: in a
+Dialogue between an Old Monkey and a Young Weasel, at the Three Cranes
+Tavern, in the Poultry."
+
+FOOTNOTE:
+
+[31] Abridged from an Account of the Tavern, by an Antiquary.
+
+
+THE MITRE, IN WOOD STREET,
+
+Was a noted old Tavern. Pepys, in his _Diary_, Sept. 18, 1660, records
+his going "to the Mitre Tavern, in Wood-street, (a house of the
+greatest note in London,) where I met W. Symons, D. Scoball, and
+their wives. Here some of us fell to handicap, a sport I never knew
+before, which was very good." The tavern was destroyed in the Great
+Fire.
+
+
+THE SALUTATION AND CAT TAVERN,
+
+No. 17, Newgate-street (north side), was, according to the tradition
+of the house, the tavern where Sir Christopher Wren used to smoke his
+pipe, whilst St. Paul's was re-building. There is more positive
+evidence of its being a place well frequented by men of letters at the
+above period. Thus, there exists a poetical invitation to a social
+feast held here on June 19, 1735-6, issued by the two stewards, Edward
+Cave and William Bowyer:
+
+     "Saturday, Jan. 17, 1735-6.
+
+                  "Sir,
+
+                       "You're desir'd on Monday next to meet
+                       At Salutation Tavern, Newgate-street.
+                       Supper will be on table just at eight,
+     [_Stewards_] One of St. John's [Bowyer], 'tother of St. John's
+                       Gate [Cave]."
+
+This brought a poetical answer from Samuel Richardson, the novelist,
+printed _in extenso_ in Bowyer's _Anecdotes_:
+
+     "For me, I'm much concerned I cannot meet
+     'At Salutation Tavern, Newgate-street.'
+     Your notice, like your verse, so sweet and short!
+     If longer, I'd sincerely thank you for it.
+     Howe'er, receive my wishes, sons of verse!
+     May every man who meets, your praise rehearse!
+     May mirth, as plenty, crown your cheerful board,
+     And ev'ry one part happy--as a lord!
+     That when at home, (by such sweet verses fir'd)
+     Your families may think you all inspir'd.
+     So wishes he, who pre-engag'd, can't know
+     The pleasures that would from your meeting flow."
+
+The proper sign is the Salutation and Cat,--a curious combination, but
+one which is explained by a lithograph, which some years ago hung in
+the coffee-room. An aged dandy is saluting a friend whom he has met in
+the street, and offering him a pinch out of the snuff-box which forms
+the top of his wood-like cane. This box-nob was, it appears, called a
+"cat"--hence the connection of terms apparently so foreign to each
+other. Some, not aware of this explanation, have accounted for the
+sign by supposing that a tavern called "the Cat" was at some time
+pulled down, and its trade carried to the Salutation, which
+thenceforward joined the sign to its own; but this is improbable,
+seeing that we have never heard of _any_ tavern called "the Cat"
+(although we _do_ know of "the Barking Dogs") as a sign. Neither does
+the _Salutation_ take its name from any scriptural or sacred source,
+as the _Angel and Trumpets_, etc.
+
+More positive evidence there is to show of the "little smoky room at
+the _Salutation and Cat_," where Coleridge and Charles Lamb sat
+smoking Oronoko and drinking egg-hot; the first discoursing of his
+idol, Bowles, and the other rejoicing mildly in Cowper and Burns, or
+both dreaming of "Pantisocracy, and golden days to come on earth."
+
+
+"SALUTATION" TAVERNS.
+
+The sign Salutation, from scriptural or sacred source, remains to be
+explained. Mr. Akerman suspects the original sign to have really
+represented the Salutation of the Virgin by the Angel--"Ave Maria,
+gratia plena"--a well-known legend on the jettons of the Middle Ages.
+The change of representation was properly accommodated to the times.
+The taverns at that period were the "gossiping shops" of the
+neighbourhood; and both Puritan and Churchman frequented them for the
+sake of hearing the news. The Puritans loved the good things of this
+world, and relished a cup of Canary, or Noll's nose lied, holding the
+maxim--
+
+     "Though the devil trepan
+     The Adamical man,
+       The saint stands uninfected."
+
+Hence, perhaps, the Salutation of the Virgin was exchanged for the
+"booin' and scrapin'" scene (two men bowing and greeting), represented
+on a token which still exists, the tavern was celebrated in the days
+of Queen Elizabeth. In some old black-letter doggrel, entitled _News
+from Bartholemew Fayre_ it is mentioned for wine:--
+
+     "There hath been great sale and utterance of wine,
+     Besides beere, and ale, and Ipocras fine;
+     In every country, region, and nation,
+     But chiefly in Billingsgate, _at the Salutation_."
+
+_The Flower-pot_ was originally part of a symbol of the Annunciation
+to the Virgin.
+
+
+QUEEN'S ARMS, ST. PAUL'S CHURCHYARD.
+
+Garrick appears to have kept up his interest in the City by means of
+clubs, to which he paid periodical visits. We have already mentioned
+the Club of young merchants, at Tom's Coffee-house, in Cornhill.
+Another Club was held at the Queen's Arms Tavern, in St. Paul's
+Churchyard, where used to assemble: Mr. Samuel Sharpe, the surgeon;
+Mr. Paterson, the City solicitor; Mr. Draper, the bookseller; Mr.
+Clutterbuck, the mercer; and a few others.
+
+Sir John Hawkins tells us that "they were none of them drinkers, and
+in order to make a reckoning, called only for French wine." These were
+Garrick's standing council in theatrical affairs.
+
+At the Queen's Arms, after a thirty years' interval, Johnson renewed
+his intimacy with some of the members of his old Ivy-lane Club.
+
+Brasbridge, the old silversmith of Fleet-street, was a member of the
+Sixpenny Card-Club held at the Queen's Arms: among the members was
+Henry Baldwyn, who, under the auspices of Bonnel Thornton, Colman the
+elder, and Garrick, set up the _St. James's Chronicle_, which once had
+the largest circulation of any evening paper. This worthy
+newspaper-proprietor was considerate and generous to men of genius:
+"Often," says Brasbridge, "at his hospitable board I have seen needy
+authors, and others connected with his employment, whose abilities,
+ill-requited as they might have been by the world in general, were by
+him always appreciated." Among Brasbridge's acquaintance, also, were
+John Walker, shopman to a grocer and chandler in Well-street, Ragfair,
+who died worth 200,000_l._, most assuredly not gained by lending money
+on doubtful security; and Ben Kenton, brought up at a charity-school,
+and who realized 300,000_l._, partly at the Magpie and Crown, in
+Whitechapel.
+
+
+DOLLY'S, PATERNOSTER ROW.
+
+This noted tavern, established in the reign of Queen Anne, has for its
+sign, the cook Dolly, who is stated to have been painted by
+Gainsborough. It is still a well-appointed chop-house and tavern, and
+the coffee-room, with its projecting fireplaces, has an olden air.
+Nearly on the site of Dolly's, Tarlton, Queen Elizabeth's favourite
+stage-clown, kept an ordinary, with the sign of the Castle. The house,
+of which a token exists, was destroyed in the Great Fire, but was
+rebuilt; there the "Castle Society of Music" gave their performances.
+Part of the old premises were subsequently the Oxford Bible Warehouse,
+destroyed by fire in 1822, and rebuilt.
+
+The entrance to the Chop-house is in Queen's Head passage; and at
+Dolly's is a window-pane painted with the head of Queen Anne, which
+may explain the name of the court.
+
+At Dolly's and Horsman's beef-steaks were eaten with gill-ale.
+
+
+ALDERSGATE TAVERNS.
+
+Two early houses of entertainment in Aldersgate were the Taborer's Inn
+and the Crown. Of the former, stated to have been of the time of
+Edward II., we know nothing but the name. The Crown, more recent,
+stood at the End of Duck-lane, and is described in Ward's _London
+Spy_, as containing a noble room, painted by Fuller, with the Muses,
+the Judgment of Paris, the Contention of Ajax and Ulysses, etc. "We
+were conducted by the jolly master," says Ward, "a true kinsman of the
+bacchanalian family, into a large stately room, where at the first
+entrance, I discerned the master-strokes of the famed Fuller's pencil;
+the whole room painted by that commanding hand, that his dead figures
+appeared with such lively majesty that they begat reverence in the
+spectators towards the awful shadows. We accordingly bade the
+complaisant waiter oblige us with a quart of his richest claret, such
+as was fit only to be drank in the presence of such heroes, into whose
+company he had done us the honour to introduce us. He thereupon gave
+directions to his drawer, who returned with a quart of such inspiring
+juice, that we thought ourselves translated into one of the houses of
+the heavens, and were there drinking immortal nectar with the gods and
+goddesses:
+
+     "Who could such blessings when thus found resign?
+     An honest vintner faithful to the vine;
+     A spacious room, good paintings, and good wine."
+
+Far more celebrated was the Mourning Bush Tavern, in the cellars of
+which have been traced the massive foundations of Aldersgate, and the
+portion of the City Wall which adjoins them. This tavern, one of the
+largest and most ancient in London, has a curious history.
+
+The Bush Tavern, its original name, took for its sign the _Ivy-bush_
+hung up at the door. It is believed to have been the house referred to
+by Stowe, as follows:--"This gate (Aldersgate) hath been at sundry
+times increased with building; namely, on the south or _inner side_, a
+great frame of timber, (or house of wood lathed and plastered,) hath
+been added and set up containing divers large rooms and lodgings,"
+which were an enlargement of the Bush. Fosbroke mentions the Bush as
+the chief sign of taverns in the Middle Ages, (it being ready to
+hand,) and so it continued until superseded by "a thing to resemble
+one containing three or four tiers of hoops fastened one above another
+with vine leaves and grapes, richly carved and gilt." He adds: "the
+owner of the Mourning Bush, Aldersgate, was so affected at the
+decollation of Charles I., that he _painted his bush black_." From
+this period the house is scarcely mentioned until the year 1719, when
+we find its name changed to the Fountain, whether from political
+feeling against the then exiled House of Stuart, or the whim of the
+proprietor, we cannot learn; though it is thought to have reference to
+a spring on the east side of the gate. Tom Brown mentions the Fountain
+satirically, with four or five topping taverns of the day, whose
+landlords are charged with doctoring their wines, but whose trade was
+so great that they stood fair for the alderman's gown. And, in a
+letter from an old vintner in the City to one newly set up in Covent
+Garden, we find the following in the way of advice: "as all the world
+are wholly supported by hard and unintelligible names, you must take
+care to christen your wines by some hard name, the further fetched so
+much the better, and this policy will serve to recommend the most
+execrable scum in your cellar. I could name several of our brethren to
+you, who now stand fair to sit in the seat of justice, and sleep in
+their golden chain at churches, that had been forced to knock off long
+ago, if it had not been for this artifice. It saved the Sun from being
+eclipsed; the Crown from being abdicated; the Rose from decaying; and
+the Fountain from being dry; as well as both the Devils from being
+confined to utter darkness."
+
+Twenty years later, in a large plan of Aldersgate Ward, 1739-40, we
+find the Fountain changed to the original Bush. The Fire of London had
+evidently, at this time, curtailed the ancient extent of the tavern.
+The exterior is shown in a print of the south side of Aldersgate; it
+has the character of the larger houses, built after the Great Fire,
+and immediately adjoins the gate. The last notice of the Bush, as a
+place of entertainment, occurs in Maitland's _History of London_, ed.
+1722, where it is described as "the Fountain, commonly called the
+Mourning Bush, which has a back door into St. Anne's-lane, and is
+situated near unto Aldersgate." The house was refitted in 1830. In the
+basement are the original wine-vaults of the old Bush; many of the
+walls are six feet thick, and bonded throughout with Roman brick. A
+very agreeable account of the tavern and the antiquities of
+neighbourhood was published in 1830.
+
+
+"THE MOURNING CROWN."
+
+In Phoenix Alley, (now Hanover Court,) Long Acre, John Taylor, the
+Water Poet, kept a tavern, with the sign of "the Mourning Crown," but
+this being offensive to the Commonwealth (1652), he substituted for a
+sign his own head with this inscription--
+
+     "There's many a head stands for a sign;
+     Then, gentle reader, why not mine?"
+
+He died here in the following year; and his widow in 1658.
+
+
+JERUSALEM TAVERNS, CLERKENWELL.
+
+These houses took their name from the Knights of St. John of
+Jerusalem, around whose Priory, grew up the village of Clerkenwell.
+The Priory Gate remains. At the Suppression, the Priory was
+undermined, and blown up with gunpowder; the Gate also would probably
+have been destroyed, but for its serving to define the property. In
+1604, it was granted to Sir Roger Wilbraham for his life. At this time
+Clerkenwell was inhabited by people of condition. Forty years later,
+fashion had travelled westward; and the Gate became the
+printing-office of Edward Cave, who, in 1731, published here the first
+number of the _Gentleman's Magazine_, which to this day bears the Gate
+for its vignette. Dr. Johnson was first engaged upon the magazine
+here by Cave in 1737. At the Gate Johnson first met Richard Savage;
+and here in Cave's room, when visitors called, he ate his plate of
+victuals behind the screen, his dress being "so shabby that he durst
+not make his appearance." Garrick, when first he came to London,
+frequently called upon Johnson at the Gate. Goldsmith was also a
+visitor here. When Cave grew rich, he had St. John's Gate painted,
+instead of his arms, on his carriage, and engraven on his plate. After
+Cave's death in 1753, the premises became the "Jerusalem"
+public-house, and the "Jerusalem Tavern."
+
+There was likewise another Jerusalem Tavern, at the corner of Red
+Lion-street on Clerkenwell-green, which was the original; St. John's
+Gate public-house, having assumed the name of "Jerusalem Tavern" in
+consequence of the old house on the Green giving up the tavern
+business, and becoming the "merchants' house." In its dank and
+cobwebbed vaults John Britton served an apprenticeship to a
+wine-merchant; and in reading at intervals by candle-light, first
+evinced that love of literature which characterized his long life of
+industry and integrity. He remembered Clerkenwell in 1787, with St.
+John's Priory-church and cloisters; when Spafields were pasturage for
+cows; the old garden-mansions of the aristocracy remained in
+Clerkenwell-close; and Sadler's Wells, Islington Spa, Merlin's Cave,
+and Bagnigge Wells, were nightly crowded with gay company.
+
+In a friendly note, Sept. 11, 1852, Mr. Britton tells us: "Our house
+sold wines in _full_ quarts, _i.e._ twelve held three gallons, wine
+measure; and each bottle was marked with four lines cut by a diamond
+on the neck. Our wines were famed, and the character of the house was
+high, whence the Gate imitated the bottles and name."
+
+In 1845, by the aid of "the Freemasons of the Church," and Mr. W. P.
+Griffith, architect, the north and south fronts were restored. The
+gateway is a good specimen of groining of the 15th century, with
+moulded ribs, and bosses ornamented with shields of the arms of the
+Priory, Prior Docwra, etc. The east basement is the tavern-bar, with a
+beautifully moulded ceiling. The stairs are Elizabethan. The principal
+room over the arch has been despoiled of its window-mullions and
+groined roof. The foundation-wall of the Gate face is 10 feet 7 inches
+thick, and the upper walls are nearly 4 feet, hard red brick,
+stone-cased: the view from the top of the staircase-turret is
+extensive. In excavating there have been discovered the original
+pavement, three feet below the Gate; and the Priory walls, north,
+south, and west. In 1851, there was published, by B. Foster,
+proprietor of the Tavern, _Ye History of ye Priory and Gate of St.
+John_. In the principal room of the Gate, over the great arch, meet
+the Urban Club, a society, chiefly of authors and artists, with whom
+originated the proposition to celebrate the tercentenary of the birth
+of Shakespeare, in 1864.
+
+
+WHITE HART TAVERN, BISHOPSGATE WITHOUT.
+
+About forty years since there stood at a short distance north of St.
+Botolph's Church, a large old _hostelrie_, according to the date it
+bore (1480), towards the close of the reign of Edward IV. Stow, in
+1598, describes it as "a fair inn for receipt of travellers, next unto
+the Parish Church of St. Botolph without Bishopsgate." It preserved
+much of its original appearance, the main front consisting of three
+bays of two storeys, which, with the interspaces, had throughout
+casements; and above which was an overhanging storey or attic, and the
+roof rising in three points. Still, this was not the original front,
+which was altered in 1787: upon the old inn yard was built White Hart
+Court. In 1829, the Tavern was taken down, and rebuilt, in handsome
+modern style; when the entrance into Old Bedlam, and formerly called
+Bedlam Gate, was widened, and the street re-named Liverpool-street. A
+lithograph of the old Tavern was published in 1829.
+
+Somewhat lower down, is the residence of Sir Paul Pindar, now
+wine-vaults, with the sign of Paul Pindar's Head, corner of
+Half-moon-alley, No. 160, Bishopsgate-street Without. Sir Paul was a
+wealthy merchant, contemporary with Sir Thomas Gresham. The house was
+built towards the end of the 16th century, with a wood-framed front
+and caryatid brackets; and the principal windows bayed, their lower
+fronts enriched with panels of carved work. In the first-floor front
+room is a fine original ceiling in stucco, in which are the arms of
+Sir Paul Pindar. In the rear of these premises, within a garden, was
+formerly a lodge, of corresponding date, decorated with four
+medallions, containing figures in Italian taste. In Half-moon-alley,
+was the Half-moon Brewhouse, of which there is a token in the Beaufoy
+Collection.
+
+
+THE MITRE, IN FENCHURCH STREET,
+
+Was one of the political taverns of the Civil War, and was kept by
+Daniel Rawlinson, who appears to have been a staunch royalist: his
+Token is preserved in the Beaufoy collection. Dr. Richard Rawlinson,
+whose Jacobite principles are sufficiently on record, in a letter to
+Hearne, the nonjuring antiquary at Oxford, says of "Daniel Rawlinson,
+who kept the Mitre Tavern in Fenchurch-street, and of whose being
+suspected in the Rump time, I have heard much. The Whigs tell this,
+that upon the King's murder, January 30th, 1649, he hung his sign in
+mourning: he certainly judged right; the honour of the mitre was much
+eclipsed by the loss of so good a parent to the Church of England;
+these rogues [the Whigs] say, this endeared him so much to the
+Churchmen, that he strove amain, and got a good estate."
+
+Pepys, who expressed great personal fear of the Plague, in his Diary,
+August 6, 1666, notices that notwithstanding Dan Rowlandson's being
+all last year in the country, the sickness in a great measure past,
+one of his men was then dead at the Mitre of the pestilence; his wife
+and one of his maids both sick, and himself shut up, which, says
+Pepys, "troubles me mightily. God preserve us!"
+
+Rawlinson's tavern, the Mitre, appears to have been destroyed in the
+Great Fire, and immediately after, rebuilt; as Horace Walpole, from
+Vertue's notes, states that "Isaac Fuller was much employed to paint
+the great taverns in London; particularly the Mitre, in
+Fenchurch-street, where he adorned all the sides of a great room, in
+panels, as was then the fashion;" "the figures being as large as life;
+over the chimney, a Venus, Satyr, and sleeping Cupid; a boy riding a
+goat, and another fallen down:" this was, he adds, "the best part of
+the performance. Saturn devouring a child, the colouring raw, and the
+figure of Saturn too muscular; Mercury, Minerva, Diana, and Apollo;
+Bacchus, Venus, and Ceres, embracing; a young Silenus fallen down, and
+holding a goblet into which a boy was pouring wine. The Seasons
+between the windows, and on the ceiling, in a large circle, two angels
+supporting a mitre."
+
+Yet, Fuller was a wretched painter, as borne out by Elsum's _Epigram
+on a Drunken Sot_:--
+
+     "His head does on his shoulder lean,
+     His eyes are sunk, and hardly seen:
+     Who sees this sot in his own colour
+     Is apt to say, 'twas done by Fuller."
+
+     _Burn's Beaufoy Catalogue._
+
+
+THE KING'S HEAD, FENCHURCH STREET.
+
+No. 53 is a place of historic interest; for, the Princess Elizabeth,
+having attended service at the church of Allhallows Staining, in
+Langbourn Ward, on her release from the Tower, on the 19th of May,
+1554, dined off pork and peas afterwards, at the King's Head in
+Fenchurch Street, where the metal dish and cover she is said to have
+used are still preserved. The Tavern has been of late years enlarged
+and embellished, in taste accordant with its historical association;
+the ancient character of the building being preserved in the
+smoking-room, 60 feet in length, upon the walls of which are displayed
+corslets, shields, helmets, and knightly arms.
+
+
+THE ELEPHANT, FENCHURCH STREET.
+
+In the year 1826 was taken down the old Elephant Tavern, which was
+built before the Great Fire, and narrowly escaped its ravages. It
+stood on the north side of Fenchurch-street, and was originally the
+Elephant and Castle. Previous to the demolition of the premises there
+were removed from the wall two pictures, which Hogarth is said to have
+painted while a lodger there. About this time, a parochial
+entertainment which had hitherto been given at the Elephant, was
+removed to the King's Head (Henry VIII.) Tavern nearly opposite. At
+this Hogarth was annoyed, and he went over to the King's Head, when an
+altercation ensued, and he left, threatening to _stick them all up_ on
+the Elephant taproom; this he is said to have done, and on the
+opposite wall subsequently painted the Hudson's Bay Company's Porters
+going to dinner, representing Fenchurch-street a century and a half
+ago. The first picture was set down as Hogarth's first idea of his
+Modern Midnight Conversation, in which he is supposed to have
+represented the parochial party at the King's Head, though it differs
+from Hogarth's print. There was a third picture, Harlequin and
+Pierrot, and on the wall of the _Elephant_ first-floor was found a
+picture of Harlow Bush Fair, coated over with paint.
+
+Only two of the pictures were claimed as Hogarth's. The _Elephant_ has
+been engraved; and at the foot of the print, the information as to
+Hogarth having executed these paintings is rested upon the evidence of
+Mrs. Hibbert, who kept the house between thirty and forty years, and
+received her information from persons at that time well acquainted
+with Hogarth. Still, his biographers do not record his abode in
+Fenchurch-street. The Tavern has been rebuilt.
+
+
+THE AFRICAN, ST. MICHAEL'S ALLEY.
+
+Another of the Cornhill taverns, the African, or Cole's Coffee-house,
+is memorable as the last place at which Professor Porson appeared. He
+had, in some measure, recovered from the effects of the fit in which
+he had fallen on the 19th of September, 1808, when he was brought in a
+hackney-coach to the London Institution, in the Old Jewry. Next
+morning he had a long discussion with Dr. Adam Clarke, who took leave
+of him at its close; and this was the last conversation Porson was
+ever capable of holding on any subject.
+
+Porson is thought to have fancied himself under restraint, and to
+convince himself of the contrary, next morning, the 20th, he walked
+out, and soon after went to the African, in St. Michael's Alley, which
+was one of his City resorts. On entering the coffee-room, he was so
+exhausted that he must have fallen, had he not caught hold of the
+curtain-rod of one of the boxes, when he was recognized by Mr. J. P.
+Leigh, a gentleman with whom he had frequently dined at the house. A
+chair was given him; he sat down, and stared around, with a vacant and
+ghastly countenance, and he evidently did not recollect Mr. Leigh. He
+took a little wine, which revived him, but previously to this his head
+lay upon his breast, and he was continually muttering something, but
+in so low and indistinct a tone as scarcely to be audible. He then
+took a little jelly dissolved in warm brandy-and-water, which
+considerably roused him. Still he could make no answer to questions
+addressed to him, except these words, which he repeated, probably,
+twenty times:--"The gentleman said it was a lucrative piece of
+business, and _I_ think so too,"--but in a very low tone. A coach was
+now brought to take him to the London Institution, and he was helped
+in, and accompanied by the waiter; he appeared quite senseless all the
+way, and did not utter a word; and in reply to the question where they
+should stop, he put his head out of the window, and waved his hand
+when they came opposite the door of the Institution. Upon this Dr.
+Clarke touchingly observes: "How quick the transition from the highest
+degree of intellect to the lowest apprehensions of sense! On what a
+precarious tenure does frail humanity hold even its choicest and most
+necessary gifts."
+
+Porson expired on the night of Sunday, September 20, with a deep
+groan, exactly as the clock struck twelve, in the forty-ninth year of
+his age.
+
+
+THE GRAVE MAURICE TAVERN.
+
+There are two taverns with this name,--in St. Leonard's-road, and
+Whitechapel-road. The history of the sign is curious. Many years ago
+the latter house had a written sign, "The Grave Morris," but this has
+been amended.
+
+But the original was the famous Prince of Orange, Grave Maurice, of
+whom we read in Howel's _Familiar Letters_. In Junius's
+_Etymologicon_, Grave is explained to be Comes, or Count, as Palsgrave
+is Palatine Count; of which we have an instance in Palsgrave Count, or
+Elector Palatine, who married Princess Elizabeth, daughter of James I.
+Their issue were the Palsgrave Charles Louis, the Grave Count or
+Prince Palatine Rupert, and the Grave Count or Prince Maurice, who
+alike distinguished themselves in the Civil Wars.
+
+The two princes, Rupert and Maurice, for their loyalty and courage,
+were after the Restoration, very popular; which induced the author of
+the _Tavern Anecdotes_ to conjecture: "As we have an idea that the
+Mount at Whitechapel was raised to overawe the City, Maurice, before
+he proceeded to the west, might have the command of the work on the
+east side of the metropolis, and a temporary residence on the spot
+where his sign was so lately exhibited." At the close of the troubles
+of the reign, the two princes retired. In 1652, they were endeavouring
+to annoy the enemies of Charles II. in the West Indies; when the Grave
+Maurice lost his life in a hurricane.
+
+The sign of the Grave Maurice remained against the house in the
+Whitechapel-road till the year 1806, when it was taken down to be
+repainted. It represented a soldier in a hat and feather, and blue
+uniform. The tradition of the neighbourhood is, that it is the
+portrait of a prince of Hesse, who was a great warrior, but of so
+inflexible a countenance, that he was never seen to smile in his life;
+and that he was, therefore, most properly termed _Grave_.
+
+
+MATHEMATICAL SOCIETY, SPITALFIELDS.
+
+It is curious to find that a century and a half since, science found a
+home in Spitalfields, chiefly among the middle and working classes;
+they met at small taverns in that locality. It appears that a
+Mathematical Society, which also cultivated electricity, was
+established in 1717, and met at the Monmouth's Head in Monmouth-street,
+until 1725, when they removed to the White Horse Tavern, in
+Wheeler-street; from thence, in 1735, to Ben Jonson's Head in
+Pelham-street; and next to Crispin-street, Spitalfields. The members
+were chiefly tradesmen and artisans; among those of higher rank were
+Canton, Dollond, Thomas Simpson, and Crossley. The Society lent their
+instruments (air-pumps, reflecting telescopes, reflecting microscopes,
+electrical machines, surveying-instruments, etc.) with books for the
+use of them, on the borrowers giving a note of hand for the value
+thereof. The number of members was not to exceed the square of seven,
+except such as were abroad or in the country; but this was increased
+to the squares of eight and nine. The members met on Saturday
+evenings: each present was to employ himself in some mathematical
+exercise, or forfeit one penny; and if he refused to answer a question
+asked by another in mathematics, he was to forfeit twopence. The
+Society long cherished a taste for exact science among the residents
+in the neighbourhood of Spitalfields, and accumulated a library of
+nearly 3000 volumes; but in 1845, when on the point of dissolution,
+the few remaining members made over their books, records, and
+memorials to the Royal Astronomical Society, of which these members
+were elected Fellows.[32] This amalgamation was chiefly negotiated by
+Captain, afterwards Admiral Smyth.
+
+FOOTNOTE:
+
+[32] Curiosities of London, p. 678.
+
+
+GLOBE TAVERN, FLEET-STREET.
+
+In the last century, when public amusements were comparatively few,
+and citizens dwelt in town, the Globe in Fleet-street was noted for
+its little clubs and card-parties. Here was held, for a time, the
+Robin Hood Club, a Wednesday Club, and later, Oliver Goldsmith and his
+friends often finished their Shoemaker's Holiday by supping at the
+Globe. Among the company was a surgeon, who, living on the Surrey side
+of the Thames (Blackfriars Bridge was not then built), had to take a
+boat every night, at 3_s._ or 4_s._ expense, and the risk of his life;
+yet, when the bridge was built, he grumbled at having a penny to pay
+for crossing it. Other frequenters of the Globe were Archibald
+Hamilton, "with a mind fit for a lord chancellor;" Carnan, the
+bookseller, who defeated the Stationers' Company upon the almanac
+trial; Dunstall, the comedian; the veteran Macklin; Akerman, the
+keeper of Newgate, who always thought it most prudent not to venture
+home till daylight; and William Woodfall, the reporter of the
+parliamentary debates. Then there was one Glover, a surgeon, who
+restored to life a man who had been hung in Dublin, and who ever after
+was a plague to his deliverer. Brasbridge, the silversmith of
+Fleet-street, was a frequenter of the Globe. In his eightieth year he
+wrote his _Fruits of Experience_, full of pleasant gossip about the
+minor gaieties of St. Bride's. He was more fond of following the
+hounds than his business, and failure was the ill consequence: he
+tells of a sporting party of four--that he and his partner became
+bankrupt; the third, Mr. Smith, became Lord Mayor; and the fourth fell
+into poverty, and was glad to accept the situation of patrol before
+the house of his Lordship, whose associate he had been only a few
+years before. Smith had 100,000_l._ of bad debts on his books, yet
+died worth one-fourth of that sum. We remember the Globe, a
+handsomely-appointed tavern, some forty years since; but it has long
+ceased to be a tavern.
+
+
+THE DEVIL TAVERN.
+
+This celebrated Tavern is described in the present work, Vol. I., pp.
+10-15, as the meeting-place of the Apollo Club. Its later history is
+interesting.
+
+Mull Sack, _alias_ John Cottington, the noted highwayman of the time
+of the Commonwealth, is stated to have been a constant visitor at the
+Devil Tavern. In the garb and character of a man of fashion, he
+appears to have levied contributions on the public as a pick-pocket
+and highwayman, to a greater extent than perhaps any other individual
+of his fraternity on record. He not only had the honour of picking the
+pocket of Oliver Cromwell, when Lord Protector, but he afterwards
+robbed King Charles II., then living in exile at Cologne, of plate
+valued at £1500. Another of his feats was his robbing the wife of the
+Lord General Fairfax. "This lady," we are told, "used to go to a
+lecture on a weekday, to Ludgate Church, where one Mr. Jacomb
+preached, being much followed by the precisians. Mull Sack, observing
+this,--and that she constantly wore her watch hanging by a chain from
+her waist,--against the next time she came there, dressed himself like
+an officer in the army; and having his comrades attending him like
+troopers, one of them takes out the pin of a coach-wheel that was
+going upwards through the gate, by which means, it falling off, the
+passage was obstructed; so that the lady could not alight at the
+church-door, but was forced to leave her coach without. Mull Sack,
+taking advantage of this, readily presented himself to her ladyship;
+and having the impudence to take her from her gentleman usher, who
+attended her alighting, led her by the arm into the church; and by the
+way, with a pair of keen or sharp scissors for the purpose, cut the
+chain in two, and got the watch clear away: she not missing it till
+sermon was done, when she was going to see the time of the day." At
+the Devil Tavern Mull Sack could mix with the best society, whom he
+probably occasionally relieved of their watches and purses. There is
+extant a very rare print of him, in which he is represented partly in
+the garb of a chimney-sweep, his original avocation, and partly in the
+fashionable costume of the period.[33]
+
+In the Apollo chamber, at the Devil Tavern, were rehearsed, with
+music, the Court-day Odes of the Poets Laureate: hence Pope, in the
+_Dunciad_:
+
+     "Back to the Devil the loud echoes roll,
+     And 'Coll!' each butcher roars at Hockley Hole."
+
+The following epigram on the Odes rehearsals is by a wit of those
+times:
+
+     "When Laureates make Odes, do you ask of what sort?
+       Do you ask if they're good, or are evil?
+     You may judge--From the Devil they come to the Court,
+       And go from the Court to the Devil."
+
+St. Dunstan's, or the Devil Tavern, is mentioned as a house of old
+repute, in the interlude, _Jacke Jugeler_, 1563, where Jack, having
+persuaded his cousin Jenkin,
+
+             "As foolish a knave withall,
+     As any is now, within London wall,"
+
+that he was not himself, thrusts him from his master's door, and in
+answer to Jenkin's sorrowful question--where his master and he were to
+dwell, replies,
+
+     "At the Devyll yf you lust, I can not tell!"
+
+Ben Jonson being one night at the Devil Tavern, a country gentleman in
+the company was obtrusively loquacious touching his land and
+tenements; Ben, out of patience, exclaimed, "What signifies to us your
+dirt and your clods? Where you have an acre of land I have ten acres
+of wit!" "Have you so," retorted the countryman, "good Mr. Wise-acre?"
+"Why, how now, Ben?" said one of the party, "you seem to be quite
+stung!" "I was never so pricked by a hobnail before," grumbled Ben.
+
+There is a ludicrous reference to this old place in a song describing
+the visit of James I. to St. Paul's Cathedral on Sunday, 26th of
+March, 1620:
+
+     "The Maior layd downe his mace, and cry'd,
+             'God save your Grace,
+         And keepe our King from all evill!'
+     With all my hart I then wist, the good mace had been in my fist,
+     To ha' pawn'd it for supper at the _Devill_!"
+
+We have already given the famous Apollo "Welcome," but not immortal
+Ben's Rules, which have been thus happily translated by Alexander
+Brome, one of the wits who frequented the Devil, and who left _Poems
+and Songs_, 1661: he was an attorney in the Lord Mayor's Court:
+
+"_Ben Jonson's Sociable Rules for the Apollo._
+
+     "Let none but guests, or clubbers, hither come.
+     Let dunces, fools, sad sordid men keep home.
+     Let learned, civil, merry men, b' invited,
+     And modest too; nor be choice ladies slighted.
+     Let nothing in the treat offend the guests;
+     More for delight than cost, prepare the feast.
+     The cook and purvey'r must our palates know;
+     And none contend who shall sit high or low.
+     Our waiters must quick-sighted be, and dumb,
+     And let the drawers quickly hear and come.
+     Let not our wine be mix'd, but brisk and neat,
+     Or else the drinkers may the vintners beat.
+     And let our only emulation be,
+     Not drinking much, but talking wittily.
+     Let it be voted lawful to stir up
+     Each other with a moderate chirping cup;
+     Let not our company be, or talk too much;
+     On serious things, or sacred, let's not touch
+     With sated heads and bellies. Neither may
+     Fiddlers unask'd obtrude themselves to play.
+     With laughing, leaping, dancing, jests, and songs,
+     And whate'er else to grateful mirth belongs,
+     Let's celebrate our feasts; and let us see
+     That all our jests without reflection be.
+     Insipid poems let no man rehearse,
+     Nor any be compelled to write a verse.
+     All noise of vain disputes must be forborne,
+     And let no lover in a corner mourn.
+     To fight and brawl, like hectors, let none dare,
+     Glasses or windows break, or hangings tear.
+     Whoe'er shall publish what's here done or said
+     From our society must be banishèd;
+     Let none by drinking do or suffer harm,
+     And, while we stay, let us be always warm."
+
+We must now say something of the noted hosts. Simon Wadlow appears for
+the last time, as a licensed vintner, in the Wardmote return, of
+December, 1626; and the burial register of St. Dunstan's records:
+"March 30th, 1627, Symon Wadlowe, vintner, was buried out of
+Fleet-street." On St. Thomas's Day, in the last-named year, the name
+of "the widow Wadlowe" appears; and in the following year, 1628, of
+the eight licensed victuallers, five were widows. The widow Wadlowe's
+name is returned for the last time by the Wardmote on December 21st,
+1629.
+
+The name of John Wadlow, apparently the son of old Simon, appears
+first as a licensed victualler, in the Wardmote return, December 21,
+1646. He issued his token, showing on its obverse St. Dunstan holding
+the devil by his nose, his lower half being that of a satyr, the devil
+on the signboard was as usual, _sable_; the origin of the practice
+being thus satisfactorily explained by Dr. Jortin: "The devils used
+often to appear to the monks in the figure of Ethiopian boys or men;
+thence probably the painters learned to make the devil black."
+Hogarth, in his print of the Burning of the Rumps, represents the
+hanging of the effigy against the sign-board of the Devil Tavern.
+
+In a ludicrous and boasting ballad of 1650, we read:
+
+     "Not the Vintry Cranes, nor St. Clement's Danes,
+           Nor the Devill can put us down-a."
+
+John Wadlow's name occurs for the last time in the Wardmote return of
+December, 1660. After the Great Fire, he rebuilt the Sun Tavern,
+behind the Royal Exchange: he was a loyal man, and appears to have
+been sufficiently wealthy to have advanced money to the Crown; his
+autograph was attached to several receipts among the Exchequer
+documents lately destroyed.
+
+Hollar's Map of London, 1667, shows the site of the Devil Tavern, and
+its proximity to the barrier designated Temple Bar, when the house had
+become the resort of lawyers and physicians. In the rare volume of
+_Cambridge Merry Jests_, printed in the reign of Charles II., the will
+of a tavern-hunter has the bequeathment of "ten pounds to be drank by
+lawyers and physicians at the Devil's Tavern, by Temple Bar."
+
+_The Tatler_, October 11, 1709, contains Bickerstaff's account of the
+wedding entertainment at the Devil Tavern, in honour of his sister
+Jenny's marriage. He mentions "the Rules of Ben's Club in gold
+letters over the chimney;" and this is the latest notice of this
+celebrated ode. When, or by whom, the board was taken from "over the
+chimney," Mr. Burn has failed to discover.
+
+Swift tells Stella that Oct. 12, 1710, he dined at the Devil Tavern
+with Mr. Addison and Dr. Garth, when the doctor treated.
+
+In 1746, the Royal Society held here their Annual Dinner; and in 1752,
+concerts of vocal and instrumental music were given in the great room.
+
+A view of the exterior of the Devil Tavern, with its gable-pointed
+front, engraved from a drawing by Wale, was published in Dodsley's
+_London and its Environs_, 1761. The sign-iron bears its pendent
+sign--the Saint painted as a half-length, and the devil behind him
+grinning grimly over his shoulder. On the removal of projecting signs,
+by authority, in 1764, the Devil Tavern sign was placed flat against
+the front, and there remained till the demolition of the house.
+
+Brush Collins, in March, 1775, delivered for several evenings, in the
+great room, a satirical lecture on Modern Oratory. In the following
+year, a Pandemonium Club was held here; and, according to a notice in
+Mr. Burn's possession, "the first meeting was to be on Monday, the 4th
+of November, 1776. These devils were lawyers, who were about
+commencing term, to the annoyance of many a hitherto happy
+_bon-vivant_."
+
+From bad to worse, the Devil Tavern fell into disuse, and Messrs.
+Child, the bankers, purchased the freehold in 1787, for £2800. It was
+soon after demolished, and the site is now occupied by the houses
+called Child's-place.
+
+We have selected and condensed these details from Mr. Burn's
+exhaustive article on the Devil Tavern, in the Beaufoy Catalogue.
+
+There is a token of this tavern, which is very rare. The initials
+stand for Simon Wadloe, embalmed in Squire Western's favourite air
+"Old Sir Simon the King:"--"AT THE D. AND DVNSTANS. The representation
+of the saint standing at his anvil, and pulling the nose of the 'D.'
+with his pincers.--R. WITHIN TEMPLE BARRE. In the field, I. S. W."
+
+FOOTNOTE:
+
+[33] Jesse's 'London and its Celebrities.'
+
+
+THE YOUNG DEVIL TAVERN.
+
+The notoriety of the Devil Tavern, as common in such cases, created an
+opponent on the opposite side of Fleet-street, named "The Young
+Devil." The Society of Antiquaries, who had previously met at the Bear
+Tavern, in the Strand, changed their rendezvous Jan. 9, 1707-8, to the
+Young Devil Tavern; but the host failed, and as Browne Willis tells
+us, the Antiquaries, in or about 1709, "met at the Fountain Tavern, as
+we went down into the Inner Temple, against Chancery Lane."
+
+Later, a music-room, called the Apollo, was attempted, but with no
+success: an advertisement for a concert, December 19, 1737, intimated
+"tickets to be had at Will's Coffee-house, formerly the Apollo, in
+Bell Yard, near Temple Bar." This may explain the Apollo Court, in
+Fleet-street, unless it is found in the next page.
+
+
+COCK TAVERN, FLEET-STREET.
+
+The Apollo Club, at the Devil Tavern, is kept in remembrance by Apollo
+Court, in Fleet-street, nearly opposite; next door eastward of which
+is an old tavern nearly as well known. It is, perhaps, the most
+primitive place of its kind in the metropolis: it still possesses a
+fragment of decoration of the time of James I., and the writer
+remembers the tavern half a century ago, with considerably more of its
+original panelling. It is just two centuries since (1665), when the
+Plague was raging, the landlord shut up his house, and retired into
+the country; and there is preserved one of the farthings referred to
+in this advertisement:--"This is to certify that the master of the
+Cock and Bottle, commonly called the Cock Alehouse, at Temple Bar,
+hath dismissed his servants, and shut up his house, for this long
+vacation, intending (God willing) to return at Michaelmas next; so
+that all persons whatsoever who may have any accounts with the said
+master, or _farthings belonging to the said house_, are desired to
+repair thither before the 8th of this instant, and they shall receive
+satisfaction." Three years later, we find Pepys frequenting this
+tavern: "23rd April, 1668. Thence by water to the Temple, and there to
+the Cock Alehouse, and drank, and eat a lobster, and sang, and
+mightily merry. So almost night, I carried Mrs. Pierce home, and then
+Knipp and I to the Temple again, and took boat, it being now night."
+The tavern has a gilt signbird over the passage door, stated to have
+been carved by Gibbons. Over the mantelpiece is some carving, at
+least of the time of James I.; but we remember the entire room
+similarly carved, and a huge black-and-gilt clock, and settle. The
+head-waiter of our time lives in the verse of Laureate Tennyson--"O
+plump head-waiter of the Cock!" apostrophizes the "Will Water-proof"
+of the bard, in a reverie wherein he conceives William to have
+undergone a transition similar to that of Jove's cup-bearer:--
+
+     "And hence (says he) this halo lives about
+       The waiter's hands, that reach
+     To each his perfect pint of stout,
+       His proper chop to each.
+     He looks not with the common breed,
+       That with the napkin dally;
+     I think he came, like Ganymede,
+       From some delightful valley."
+
+And of the redoubtable bird, who is supposed to have performed the
+eagle's part in this abduction, he says:--
+
+     "The Cock was of a larger egg
+       Than modern poultry drop,
+     Stept forward on a firmer leg,
+       And cramm'd a plumper crop."
+
+
+THE HERCULES' PILLARS TAVERNS.
+
+Hercules Pillars Alley, on the south side of Fleet-street, near St.
+Dunstan's Church, is described by Strype as "altogether inhabited by
+such as keep Publick Houses for entertainment, for which it is of
+note."
+
+The token of the Hercules Pillars is thus described by Mr.
+Akerman:--"ED. OLDHAM AT Y HERCVLES. A crowned male figure standing
+erect, and grasping a pillar with each hand.--Rx. PILLERS IN FLEET
+STREET. In the field, HIS HALF PENNY, E. P. O." "From this example,"
+illustratively observes Mr. Akerman, "it would seem that the locality,
+called Hercules Pillars Alley, like other places in London, took its
+name from the tavern. The mode of representing the pillars of Hercules
+is somewhat novel; and, but for the inscription, we should have
+supposed the figure to represent Samson clutching the pillars of
+temple of Dagon. At the trial of Stephen Colledge, for high-treason,
+in 1681, an Irishman named Haynes, swore that he walked to the
+Hercules Pillars with the accused, and that in a room upstairs
+Colledge spoke of his treasonable designs and feeling. On another
+occasion the parties walked from Richard's coffee-house[34] to this
+tavern, where it was sworn they had a similar conference. Colledge, in
+his defence, denies the truth of the allegation, and declares that the
+walk from the coffee-house to the tavern is not more than a bow-shot,
+and that during such walk the witness had all the conversation to
+himself, though he had sworn that treasonable expressions had been
+made use of on their way thither.
+
+"Pepys frequented this tavern: in one part of his _Diary_ he says,
+'With Mr. Creed to Hercules Pillars, where we drank.' In another, 'In
+Fleet-street I met with Mr. Salisbury, who is now grown in less than
+two years' time so great a limner that he is become excellent and gets
+a great deal of money at it. I took him to Hercules Pillars to
+drink.'"
+
+Again: "After the play was done, we met with Mr. Bateller and W.
+Hewer, and Talbot Pepys, and they followed us in a hackney-coach; and
+we all supped at Hercules Pillars; and there I did give the best
+supper I could, and pretty merry; and so home between eleven and
+twelve at night." "At noon, my wife came to me at my tailor's, and I
+sent her home, and myself and Tom dined at Hercules Pillars."
+
+Another noted "Hercules Pillars" was at Hyde Park Corner, near
+Hamilton-place, on the site of what is now the pavement opposite Lord
+Willoughby's. "Here," says Cunningham, "Squire Western put his horses
+up when in pursuit of Tom Jones; and here Field Marshal the Marquis of
+Gransby was often found." And Wycherley, in his _Plain Dealer_, 1676,
+makes the spendthrift, Jerry Blackacre, talk of picking up his
+mortgaged silver "out of most of the ale-houses between Hercules
+Pillars and the Boatswain in Wapping."
+
+Hyde Park Corner was noted for its petty taverns, some of which
+remained as late as 1805. It was to one of these taverns that Steele
+took Savage to dine, and where Sir Richard dictated and Savage wrote a
+pamphlet, which he went out and sold for two guineas, with which the
+reckoning was paid. Steele then "returned home, having retired that
+day only to avoid his creditors, and composed the pamphlet only to
+discharge his reckoning."
+
+FOOTNOTE:
+
+[34] Subsequently "Dick's."
+
+
+HOLE-IN-THE-WALL TAVERNS.
+
+This odd sign exists in Chancery-lane, at a house on the east side,
+immediately opposite the old gate of Lincoln's-Inn; "and," says Mr.
+Burn, "being supported by the dependants on legal functionaries,
+appears to have undergone fewer changes than the law, retaining all
+the vigour of a new establishment." There is another "Hole in the
+Wall" in St. Dunstan's-court, Fleet-street, much frequented by
+printers.
+
+Mr. Akerman says:--"It was a popular sign, and several taverns bore
+the same designation, which probably originated in a certain tavern
+being situated in some umbrageous recess in the old City walls. Many
+of the most popular and most frequented taverns of the present day are
+located in twilight courts and alleys, into which Phoebus peeps at
+Midsummer-tide only when on the meridian. Such localities may have
+been selected on more than one account: they not only afforded good
+skulking 'holes' for those who loved drinking better than work; but
+beer and other liquors keep better in the shade. These haunts, like
+Lady Mary's farm, were--
+
+     'In summer shady, and in winter warm.'
+
+Rawlins, the engraver of the fine and much coveted Oxford Crown, with
+a view of the city under the horse, dates a quaint supplicatory letter
+to John Evelyn, 'from the Hole in the Wall, in St. Martin's;' no
+misnomer, we will be sworn, in that aggregation of debt and
+dissipation, when debtors were imprisoned with a very remote chance of
+redemption. In the days of Rye-house and Meal-Tub plots, philanthropy
+overlooked such little matters; and Small Debts Bills were not dreamt
+of in the philosophy of speculative legislators. Among other places
+which bore the designation of the Hole in the Wall, there was one in
+Chandos-street, in which the famous Duval, the highwayman, was
+apprehended after an attack on--two bottles of wine, probably drugged
+by a 'friend' or mistress."
+
+
+THE MITRE, IN FLEET-STREET.
+
+This was the true Johnsonian Mitre, so often referred to in _Boswell's
+Life_; but it has earlier fame. Here, in 1640, Lilly met Old Will
+Poole, the astrologer, then living in Ram-alley. The Royal Society
+Club dined at the Mitre from 1743 to 1750, the Society then meeting in
+Crane-court, nearly opposite. The Society of Antiquaries met some time
+at the Mitre. Dr. Macmichael, in _The Gold-headed Cane_, makes Dr.
+Radcliffe say:--"I never recollect to have spent a more delightful
+evening than that at the Mitre Tavern, in Fleet-street, where my good
+friend Billy Nutly, who was indeed the better half of me, had been
+prevailed upon to accept of a small temporary assistance, and joined
+our party, the Earl of Denbigh, Lords Colepeper and Stowel, and Mr.
+Blackmore."
+
+The house has a token:--WILLIAM PAGET AT THE. A mitre.--Rx. MITRE IN
+FLEET STREET. In the field, W. E. P.
+
+Johnson's Mitre is commonly thought to be the tavern with that sign,
+which still exists in Mitre-court, over against Fetter-lane; where is
+shown a cast of Nollekens' bust of Johnson, in confirmation of this
+house being his resort. Such was not the case; Boswell distinctly
+states it to have been the Mitre Tavern _in_ _Fleet-street_; and the
+records by Lilly and the Royal Society, alike specify "in
+Fleet-street," which Mr. Burn, in his excellent account of the Beaufoy
+Tokens, explains was the house, No. 39, Fleet-street, that Macklin
+opened, in 1788, as the Poet's Gallery; and lastly, Saunders's
+auction-rooms. It was taken down to enlarge the site for Messrs.
+Hoares' new banking-house. The now Mitre Tavern, in Mitre-court, was
+originally called Joe's Coffee-house; and on the shutting up of the
+old Mitre, in Fleet-street, took its name; this being four years after
+Johnson's death.
+
+The Mitre was Dr. Johnson's favourite supper-house, the parties
+including Goldsmith, Percy, Hawkesworth, and Boswell; there was
+planned the tour to the Hebrides. Johnson had a strange nervous
+feeling, which made him uneasy if he had not touched every post
+between the Mitre and his own lodgings. Johnson took Goldsmith to the
+Mitre, where Boswell and the Doctor had supped together in the
+previous month, when Boswell spoke of Goldsmith's "very loose, odd,
+scrambling kind of life," and Johnson defended him as one of our first
+men as an author, and a very worthy man;--adding, "he has been loose
+in his principles, but he is coming right." Boswell was impatient of
+Goldsmith from the first hour of their acquaintance. Chamberlain
+Clarke, who died in 1831, aged 92, was the last surviving of Dr.
+Johnson's Mitre friends. Mr. William Scott, Lord Stowell, also
+frequented the Mitre.
+
+Boswell has this remarkable passage respecting the house:--"We had a
+good supper, and port-wine, of which he (Johnson) sometimes drank a
+bottle. The orthodox high-church sound of THE MITRE--the figure and
+manner of the celebrated SAMUEL JOHNSON--the extraordinary power and
+precision of his conversation, and the pride arising from finding
+myself admitted as his companion, produced a variety of sensations,
+and a pleasing elevation of mind, beyond what I had ever experienced."
+
+
+SHIP TAVERN, TEMPLE BAR.
+
+This noted Tavern, the site of which is now denoted by Ship-yard, is
+mentioned among the grants to Sir Christopher Hatton, 1571. There is,
+in the Beaufoy Collection, a Ship token, dated 1649, which is evidence
+that the inner tavern of that sign was then extant. It was also called
+the Drake, from the ship painted as the sign being that in which Sir
+Francis Drake voyaged round the world. Faithorne, the celebrated
+engraver, kept shop, next door to the Drake. "The Ship Tavern, in the
+Butcher-row, near Temple Bar," occurs in an advertisement so late as
+June, 1756.
+
+The taverns about Temple Bar were formerly numerous; and the folly of
+disfiguring sign-boards was then, as at a later date, a street frolic.
+"Sir John Denham, the poet, when a student at Lincoln's-Inn, in 1635,
+though generally temperate as a drinker, having stayed late at a
+tavern with some fellow-students, induced them to join him in 'a
+frolic,' to obtain a pot of ink and a plasterer's brush, and blot out
+all the signs between Temple Bar and Charing Cross. Aubrey relates
+that R. Estcourt, Esq., carried the ink-pot: and that next day it
+caused great confusion; but it happened Sir John and his comrades were
+discovered, and it cost them some moneys."
+
+
+THE PALSGRAVE HEAD, TEMPLE BAR.
+
+This once celebrated Tavern, opposite the Ship, occupied the site of
+Palsgrave-place, on the south side of the Strand, near Temple Bar. The
+Palsgrave Frederick, afterwards King of Bohemia, was affianced to the
+Princess Elizabeth (only daughter of James I.), in the old banqueting
+house at Whitehall, December 27, 1612, when the sign was, doubtless,
+set up in compliment to him. There is a token of the house in the
+Beaufoy Collection. (See _Burn's Catalogue_, p. 225.)
+
+Here Prior and Montague, in _The Hind and Panther Transversed_, make
+the Country Mouse and the City Mouse bilk the Hackney Coachman:
+
+     "But now at Piccadilly they arrive,
+     And taking coach, t'wards Temple Bar they drive,
+     But at St. Clement's eat out the back;
+     And slipping through the Palsgrave, bilkt poor hack."
+
+
+HEYCOCK'S, TEMPLE BAR,
+
+Near the Palsgrave's Head tavern, was Heycock's Ordinary, much
+frequented by Parliament men and gallants. Andrew Marvell usually
+dined here: one day, having eaten heartily of boiled beef, with some
+roasted pigeons and asparagus, he drank his pint of port; and on the
+coming in of the reckoning, taking a piece of money out of his
+pocket, held it up, and addressing his associates, certain members of
+Parliament, known to be in the pay of the Crown, said, "Gentlemen, who
+would lett himself out for hire, while he can have such a dinner for
+half-a-crown?"
+
+
+THE CROWN AND ANCHOR, STRAND.
+
+This famous tavern extended from Arundel-street eastward to
+Milford-lane, in the rear of the south side of the Strand, and
+occupied the site of an older house with the same sign. Strype, in
+1729, described it as "the Crown Tavern; a large and curious house,
+with good rooms and other conveniences fit for entertainments." Here
+was instituted the Academy of Music in 1710; and here the Royal
+Society Club, who had previously met at the Mitre in Fleet-street,
+removed in 1780, and dined here for the first time on December 21, and
+here they continued until the tavern was converted into a club-house
+in 1847.
+
+The second tavern was built in 1790. Its first landlord was Thomas
+Simpkin, a very corpulent man, who, in superintending the serving of a
+large dinner, leaned over a balustrade, which broke, when he fell from
+a considerable height to the ground, and was killed. The sign appears
+to have been originally "The Crown," to which may have been added the
+Anchor, from its being the emblem of St. Clement's, opposite; or from
+the Lord High Admiral having once resided on the site. The tavern
+contained a ball-room, 84 feet by 35 feet 6 inches; in 1798, on the
+birthday of C. J. Fox, was given in this house, a banquet to 2000
+persons, when the Duke of Norfolk presided. The large room was noted
+for political meetings in the stormy Tory and Radical times; and the
+Crown and Anchor was long the rallying-point of the Westminster
+electors. The room would hold 2500 persons: one of the latest popular
+orators who spoke here was Daniel O'Connell, M.P. There was originally
+an entrance to the house from the Strand, by a long passage, such as
+was the usual approach to our old metropolitan taverns. The premises
+were entirely destroyed by fire, in 1854, but have been rebuilt.[35]
+
+Here Johnson and Boswell occasionally supped; and here Johnson
+quarrelled with Percy about old Dr. Monsey. Thither was brought the
+altar-piece (St. Cecilia), painted by Kent for St. Clement's Church,
+whence it was removed, in 1725, by order of Bishop Gibson, on the
+supposition that the picture contained portraits of the Pretender's
+wife and children.
+
+FOOTNOTE:
+
+[35] See Whittington Club, Vol. I. p. 313.
+
+
+THE CANARY-HOUSE, IN THE STRAND.
+
+There is a rare Token of this house, with the date, 1665. The locality
+of the "Canary House in the Strande," says Mr. E. B. Price, "is now,
+perhaps, impossible to trace; and it is, perhaps, as vain to attempt a
+description of the wine from which it took its name, and which was so
+celebrated in that and the preceding century. Some have erroneously
+identified it with sack. We find it mentioned among the various
+drinks which Gascoyne so virtuously inveighs against in his _Delicate
+Diet for daintie mouthde Droonkardes_, published in 1576: "_We_ must
+have March beere, dooble-dooble Beere, Dagger ale, Bragget, Renish
+wine, White wine, French wine, Gascoyne wine, Sack, Hollocke, Canaria
+wine, _Vino greco_, _Vinum amabile_, and al the wines that may be
+gotten. Yea, wine of its selfe is not sufficient; but Suger, Limons,
+and sundry sortes of Spices must be drowned therein." The bibbers of
+this famed wine were wont to be termed "Canary birds." Of its
+qualities we can perhaps form the best estimate from the colloquy
+between "mine hostess of the Boar's Head and Doll Tearsheet;" in which
+the former charges the latter with having "drunk too much _Canaries_;
+and that's a _marvellous searching wine, and it perfumes the blood ere
+one can say, What's this?_"[36]
+
+FOOTNOTE:
+
+[36] We learn from Collier's _Roxburghe Ballads_ (_Lit. Gaz._ No.
+1566) that in the reign of James I. "sparkling sack" was sold at 1_s._
+6_d._ per quart, and "Canary--pure French wine," at 7 pence.
+
+
+THE FOUNTAIN TAVERN,
+
+Strand, now the site of Nos. 101 and 102, Ries's Divan, gave the name
+to the Fountain Club, composed of political opponents of Sir Robert
+Walpole. Strype describes it as "a very fine Tavern, with excellent
+vaults, good rooms for entertainment, and a curious kitchen for
+dressing of meat, which, with the good wine there sold, make it well
+resorted to." Dennis, the Critic, describes his supping here with
+Loggan, the painter, and others, and that after supper they "drank Mr.
+Wycherley's health by name of Captain Wycherley."
+
+Here, Feb. 12, 1742, was held a great meeting, at which near 300
+members of both Houses of Parliament were present, to consider the
+ministerial crisis, when the Duke of Argyll observed to Mr. Pulteney,
+that a grain of honesty was worth a cart-load of gold. The meeting was
+held too late to be of any avail, to which Sir Charles Hanbury
+Williams alludes in one of his odes to Pulteney, invoking his Muse
+thus:--
+
+     "Then enlarge on his cunning and wit;
+       Say, how he harang'd at the Fountain;
+     Say, how the old patriots were bit,
+       And a mouse was produc'd by a mountain."
+
+Upon the Tavern site was a Drawing Academy, of which Cosway and
+Wheatley were pupils; here also was the lecture-room of John Thelwall,
+the political elocutionist. At No. 101, Ackermann, the printseller,
+illuminated his gallery with cannel coal, when gas-lighting was a
+novelty.
+
+In Fountain-court, named from the Tavern, is the Coal-hole Tavern,
+upon the site of a coal-yard; it was much resorted to by Edmund Kean,
+and was one of the earliest night taverns for singing.
+
+
+TAVERN LIFE OF SIR RICHARD STEELE.
+
+Among the four hundred letters of Steele's preserved in the British
+Museum, are some written from his tavern haunts, a few weeks after
+marriage, to his "Dearest being on earth:"
+
+     "_Eight o'clock, Fountain Tavern, Oct. 22, 1707._
+
+     "My dear,
+
+     "I beg of you not to be uneasy; for I have done a great deal
+     of business to-day very successfully, and wait an hour or
+     two about my _Gazette_."
+
+In the next, he does "not come home to dinner, being obliged to attend
+to some business abroad." Then he writes from the Devil Tavern, Temple
+Bar, January 3, 1707-8, as follows:--
+
+     "I have partly succeeded in my business, and enclose two
+     guineas as earnest of more. Dear Prue, I cannot come home to
+     dinner; I languish for your welfare, and will never be a
+     moment careless more.
+
+     "Your faithful husband," etc.
+
+Within a few days, he writes from a Pall Mall tavern:--
+
+     "Dear Wife,
+
+     "Mr. Edgecombe, Ned Ask, and Mr. Lumley, have desired me to
+     sit an hour with them at the George, in Pall Mall, for which
+     I desire your patience till twelve o'clock, and that you
+     will go to bed," etc.
+
+When money-matters were getting worse, Steele found it necessary to
+sleep away from home for a day or two, and he writes:--
+
+     "_Tennis-court Coffee-house, May 5, 1708._
+
+     "Dear Wife,
+
+     "I hope I have done this day what will be pleasing to you;
+     in the meantime shall lie this night at a baker's, one Leg,
+     over against the Devil Tavern, at Charing Cross. I shall be
+     able to confront the fools who wish me uneasy, and shall
+     have the satisfaction to see thee cheerful and at ease.
+
+     "If the printer's boy be at home, send him hither; and let
+     Mr. Todd send by the boy my night-gown, slippers, and clean
+     linen. You shall hear from me early in the morning," etc.
+
+He is found excusing his coming home, being "invited to supper at Mr.
+Boyle's." "Dear Prue," he says on this occasion, "do not send after
+me, for I shall be ridiculous." There were _Caudles_ in those
+days.[37]
+
+FOOTNOTE:
+
+[37] Lives of Wits and Humourists, vol. i. p. 134.
+
+
+CLARE MARKET TAVERNS.
+
+Clare Market lying between the two great theatres, its butchers were
+the arbiters of the galleries, the leaders of theatrical rows, the
+musicians at actresses' marriages, the chief mourners at players'
+funerals. In and around the market were the signs of the Sun; the Bull
+and Butcher, afterwards Spiller's Head; the Grange; the Bull's Head,
+where met "the Shepherd and his Flock Club," and where Dr. Radcliffe
+was carousing when he received news of the loss of his 5000_l._
+venture. Here met weekly a Club of Artists, of which society Hogarth
+was a member, and he engraved for them a silver tankard with a
+shepherd and his flock. Next is the Black Jack in Portsmouth-street,
+the haunt of Joe Miller, the comedian, and where he uttered his
+time-honoured "Jests:" the house remains, but the sign has
+disappeared. Miller died in 1738, and was buried in St. Clement's
+upper ground, in Portugal-street, where his gravestone was inscribed
+with the following epitaph, written by Stephen Duck: "Here lie the
+remains of honest Joe Miller, who was a tender husband, a sincere
+friend, a facetious companion, and an excellent comedian. He departed
+this life the 15th day of August, 1738, aged 54 years.
+
+     "If humour, wit, and honesty could save
+     The humorous, witty, honest, from the grave,
+     This grave had not so soon its tenant found,
+     With honesty, and wit, and humour crown'd.
+     Or could esteem and love preserve our health,
+     And guard us longer from the stroke of Death,
+     The stroke of Death on him had later fell,
+     Whom all mankind esteem'd and loved so well."
+
+The stone was restored by the parish grave-digger at the close of the
+last century; and in 1816, a new stone was set up by Mr. Jarvis Buck,
+churchwarden, who added S. Duck to the epitaph. The burial-ground has
+been cleared away, and the site has been added to the grounds of
+King's College Hospital.
+
+At the Black Jack, also called the Jump, (from Jack Sheppard having
+once jumped out of a first-floor window, to escape his pursuers, the
+thief-takers,) a Club known as "the Honourable Society of Jackers,"
+met until 1816. The roll of the fraternity "numbers many of the
+popular actors since the time of Joe Miller, and some of the wits;
+from John Kemble, Palmer, and Theodore Hook down to Kean, Liston, and
+the mercurial John Pritt Harley. Since the dissolution of this last
+relic of the sociality of the Joe Miller age, 'wit-combats' have been
+comparatively unknown at the Old Black Jack."[38]
+
+FOOTNOTE:
+
+[38] Jo. Miller; a Biography, 1848.
+
+
+THE CRAVEN HEAD, DRURY LANE.
+
+This modern Tavern was part of the offices of Craven House, and the
+adjoining stabling belonged to the mansion; the extensive cellars
+still remain, though blocked up.
+
+Craven House was built for William Lord Craven, the hero of
+Creutznach, upon part of the site of Drury House, and was a large
+square pile of brick, four storeys high, which occupied the site of
+the present Craven-buildings, built in 1723. That portion of the
+mansion abutting on Magpie-alley, now Newcastle-street, was called
+Bohemia House, and was early in the last century, converted into a
+tavern, with the sign of the head of its former mistress, the Queen of
+Bohemia. But a destructive fire happening in the neighbourhood, the
+tavern was shut up, and the building suffered to decay; till, at
+length, in 1802, what remained of the dilapidated mansion was pulled
+down, and the materials sold; and upon the ground, in 1803, Philip
+Astley erected his Olympic Pavilion, which was burnt down in 1849.
+
+The Craven Head was some time kept by William Oxberry, the comedian,
+who first appeared on the stage in 1807; he also edited a large
+collection of dramas. Another landlord of the Craven Head was Robert
+Hales, "the Norfolk Giant" (height 7 ft. 6 in.), who, after visiting
+the United States, where Barnum made a speculation of the giant, and
+28,000 persons flocked to see him in ten days,--in January, 1851,
+returned to England, and took the Craven Head Tavern. On April 11th
+Hales had the honour of being presented to the Queen and Royal Family,
+when Her Majesty gave him a gold watch and chain, which he wore to the
+day of his death. His health had been much impaired by the close
+confinement of the caravans in which he exhibited. He died in 1863, of
+consumption. Hales was cheerful and well-informed. He had visited
+several Continental capitals, and had been presented to Louis
+Philippe, King of the French.
+
+
+THE COCK TAVERN, IN BOW-STREET.
+
+This Tavern, of indecent notoriety, was situated about the middle of
+the east side of Bow-street, then consisting of very good houses, well
+inhabited, and resorted to by gentry for lodgings. Here Wycherley and
+his first wife, the Countess of Drogheda, lodged over against the
+Cock, "whither, if he at any time were with his friends, he was
+obliged to leave the windows open, that the lady might see there was
+no woman in the company, or she would be immediately in a downright
+raving condition." (_Dennis's Letters._)
+
+The Cock Tavern was the resort of the rakes and Mohocks of that day,
+when the house was kept by a woman called "Oxford Kate." Here took
+place the indecent exposure, which has been told by Johnson, in his
+life of Sackville, Lord Dorset. "Sackville, who was then Lord
+Buckhurst, with Sir Charles Sedley, and Sir Thomas Ogle, got drunk at
+the Cock, in Bow-street, by Covent-garden, and going into the balcony,
+exposed themselves to the company in very indecent postures. At last,
+as they grew warmer, Sedley stood forth naked, and harangued the
+populace in such profane language, that the public indignation was
+awakened; the crowd attempted to force the door, and being repulsed,
+drove in the performers with stones, and broke the windows of the
+house. For this misdemeanour they were indicted, and Sedley was fined
+five hundred pounds; what was the sentence of the others is not known.
+Sedley employed Killegrew and another to procure a remission of the
+King, but (mark the friendship of the dissolute!) they begged the fine
+for themselves, and exacted it to the last groat."
+
+Sir John Coventry had supped at the Cock Tavern, on the night when, in
+his way home, his nose was cut to the bone, at the corner of
+Suffolk-street, in the Haymarket, "for reflecting on the King, who,
+therefore, determined to _set a mark_ upon him:" he was watched; when
+attacked, he stood up to the wall, and snatched the flambeau out of
+the servant's hands, and with that in one hand, and the sword in the
+other, he defended himself, but was soon disarmed, and his nose was
+cut to the bone; it was so well sewed up, that the scar was scarce to
+be discerned. This attempt at assassination occasioned the Coventry
+Act, 22 and 23 Car. II. c. 1, by which specific provisions were made
+against the offence of maiming, cutting off, or disabling, a limb or
+member.
+
+
+THE QUEEN'S HEAD, BOW-STREET.
+
+This Tavern, in Duke's Court, was once kept by a facetious person,
+named Jupp, and is associated with a piece of humour, which may either
+be matter of fact, or interpreted as a pleasant satire upon
+etymological fancies. One evening, two well-known characters, Annesley
+Shay and Bob Todrington (the latter caricatured by Old Dighton), met
+at the Queen's Head, and at the bar asked for "half a quartern" each,
+with a little cold water. They continued to drink until they had
+swallowed four-and-twenty half-quarterns in water, when Shay said to
+the other, "Now, we'll go." "Oh, no," replied he, "we'll have another,
+and then go." This did not satisfy the Hibernians, and they continued
+drinking on till three in the morning, when they both agreed to go; so
+that under the idea of going they made a long stay, and this was the
+origin of drinking, or calling for, goes of liquor; but another,
+determined to eke out the measure his own way, used to call for a
+quartern at a time, and these, in the exercise of his humour, he
+called _stays_. We find the above in the very pleasant _Etymological
+Compendium_, third edition, revised and improved by Merton A. Thoms,
+1853.
+
+
+THE SHAKSPEARE TAVERN.
+
+Of this noted theatrical tavern, in the Piazza, Covent Garden, several
+details were received by Mr. John Green, in 1815, from Twigg, who was
+apprentice at the Shakspeare. They had generally fifty turtles at a
+time; and upon an average from ten to fifteen were dressed every week;
+and it was not unusual to send forty quarts of turtle soup a-week into
+the country, as far as Yorkshire.
+
+The sign of Shakspeare, painted by Wale, cost nearly 200_l._: it
+projected at the corner, over the street, with very rich iron-work.
+Dick Milton was once landlord; he was a great gamester, and once won
+40,000_l._ He would frequently start with his coach-and-six, which he
+would keep about six months, and then sell it. He was so much
+reduced, and his credit so bad, at times, as to send out for a dozen
+of wine for his customers; it was sold at 16s. a bottle. This is
+chronicled as the first tavern in London that had rooms; and from this
+house the other taverns were supplied with waiters. Here were held
+three clubs--the Madras, Bengal, and Bombay.
+
+Twigg was cook at the Shakspeare. The largest dinner ever dressed here
+consisted of 108 made-dishes, besides hams, etc., and vegetables; this
+was the dinner to Admiral Keppel, when he was made First Lord of the
+Admiralty. Twigg told of another dinner to Sir Richard Simmons, of
+Earl's Court, Mr. Small, and three other gentlemen; it consisted of
+the following dishes:--A turbot, of 40lb., a Thames salmon, a haunch
+of venison, French beans and cucumbers, a green goose, an apricot
+tart, and green peas. The dinner was dressed by Twigg, and it came to
+about seven guineas a head.
+
+The Shakspeare is stated to have been the first tavern in Covent
+Garden. Twigg relates of Tomkins, the landlord, that his father had
+been a man of opulence in the City, but failed for vast sums. Tomkins
+kept his coach and his country-house, but was no gambler, as has been
+reported. He died worth 40,000_l._ His daughter married Mr. Longman,
+the music-seller. Tomkins had never less than a hundred pipes of wine
+in his cellar; he kept seven waiters, one cellar-man, and a boy. Each
+waiter was smartly dressed in his ruffles, and thought it a bad week
+if he did not make 7_l._ Stacie, who partly served his apprenticeship
+to Tomkins, told Twigg, that he had betted nearly 3000_l._ upon one of
+his racehorses of the name of Goldfinder. Stacie won, and afterwards
+sold the horse for a large sum.
+
+There was likewise a Shakspeare Tavern in Little Russell-street,
+opposite Drury-lane Theatre; the sign was altered in 1828, to the
+Albion.
+
+
+SHUTER, AND HIS TAVERN-PLACES.
+
+Shuter, the actor, at the age of twelve, was pot-boy at the Queen's
+Head (afterwards Mrs. Butler's), in Covent Garden, where he was so
+kind to the rats in the cellar, by giving them sops from porter, (for,
+in his time, any person might have a toast in his beer,) that they
+would creep about him and upon him; he would carry them about between
+his shirt and his waistcoat, and even call them by their names. Shuter
+was next pot-boy at the Blue Posts, opposite Brydges-street, then kept
+by Ellidge, and afterwards by Carter, who played well at billiards, on
+account of the length of his arms. Shuter used to carry beer to the
+players, behind the scenes at Drury-lane Theatre, and elsewhere, and
+being noticed by Hippisley, was taken as his servant, and brought on
+the stage. He had also been at the house next the Blue Posts,--the
+Sun, in Russell-street, which was frequented by Hippisley. Mr.
+Theophilus Forrest, when he paid Shuter his money, allowed him in his
+latter days, two guineas per week, found him calling for gin, and his
+shirt was worn to half its original size. Latterly, he was hooted by
+the boys in the street: he became a Methodist, and died at King John's
+Palace, Tottenham Court Road.
+
+
+THE ROSE TAVERN, COVENT GARDEN.
+
+This noted Tavern, on the east side of Brydges-street, flourished in
+the seventeenth and eighteenth centuries, and from its contiguity to
+Drury-lane Theatre, and close connection with it, was frequented by
+courtiers and men of letters, of loose character, and other gentry of
+no character at all. The scenes of _The Morning Ramble, or the Town
+Humour_, 1672, are laid "at the Rose Tavern, in Covent Garden," which
+was constantly a scene of drunken broils, midnight orgies, and
+murderous assaults, by men of fashion, who were designated "Hectors,"
+and whose chief pleasure lay in frequenting taverns for the running
+through of some fuddled toper, whom wine had made valiant. Shadwell,
+in his comedy of the _Scowrers_, 1691, written at a time when
+obedience to the laws was enforced, and these excesses had in
+consequence declined, observes of these cowardly ruffians: "They were
+brave fellows, indeed! In those days a man could not go from the Rose
+Tavern to the Piazza once, but he must venture his life twice."
+
+Women of a certain freedom of character frequented taverns at the
+commencement of the last century, and the Rose, doubtless, resembled
+the box-lobby of a theatre. In the _Rake Reformed_, 1718, this tavern
+is thus noticed:
+
+     "Not far from thence appears a pendent sign,
+     Whose bush declares the product of the vine,
+     Whence to the traveller's sight the full-blown Rose
+     Its dazzling beauties doth in gold disclose;
+     And painted faces flock in tally'd clothes."
+
+Dramatists and poets resorted to the house, and about 1726, Gay and
+other wits, by clubbing verses, concocted the well-known love ditty,
+entitled _Molly Mogg of the Rose_, in compliment to the then barmaid
+or waitress. The Welsh ballad, _Gwinfrid Shones_, printed in 1733, has
+also this tribute to Molly Mogg, as a celebrated toast:
+
+     "Some sing Molly Mogg of the Rose,
+       And call her the Oakingham pelle;
+     Whilst others does farces compose,
+       On peautiful Molle Lepelle."
+
+Hogarth's third print of the Rake's Progress, published in 1735,
+exhibits a principal room in the Rose Tavern: Lethercoat, the fellow
+with a bright pewter dish and a candle, is a portrait; he was for many
+years a porter attached to the house.
+
+Garrick, when he enlarged Drury-lane Theatre, in 1776, raised the new
+front designed by Robert Adam, took in the whole of the tavern, as a
+convenience to the theatre, and retained the sign of the Rose in an
+oval compartment, as a conspicuous part of the decoration, which is
+shown in a popular engraving by J. T. Smith.
+
+In D'Urfey's Songs, 1719, we find these allusions to the Rose:
+
+       "_A Song in Praise of Chalk, by W. Pettis._
+
+         "We the lads at the Rose
+         A patron have chose,
+     Who's as void as the best is of thinking;
+         And without dedication,
+         Will assist in his station,
+     And maintains us in eating and drinking."
+
+       "_Song.--The Nose._
+
+     "Three merry lads met at the Rose,
+     To speak in the praises of the nose:
+     The flat, the sharp, the Roman snout,
+     The hawk's nose circled round about;
+     The crooked nose that stands awry,
+     The ruby nose of scarlet dye;
+     The brazen nose without a face,
+     That doth the learned college grace.
+     Invention often barren grows,
+     Yet still there's matter in the nose."
+
+
+EVANS'S, COVENT GARDEN.
+
+At the north-west corner of Covent Garden Market is a lofty edifice,
+which, with the building that preceded it, possesses a host of
+interesting associations. Sir Kenelm Digby came to live here after the
+Restoration of Charles II.: here he was much visited by the
+philosophers of his day, and built in the garden in the rear of the
+house a laboratory. The mansion was altered, if not rebuilt, for the
+Earl of Orford, better known as Admiral Russell, who, in 1692,
+defeated Admiral de Tourville, and ruined the French fleet. The façade
+of the house originally resembled the forecastle of a ship. The fine
+old staircase is formed of part of the vessel Admiral Russell
+commanded at La Hogue; it has handsomely carved anchors, ropes, and
+the coronet and initials of Lord Orford. The Earl died here in 1727;
+and the house was afterwards occupied by Thomas, Lord Archer, until
+1768; and by James West, the great collector of books, etc., and
+President of the Royal Society, who died in 1772.
+
+Mr. Twigg recollected Lord Archer's garden (now the site of the
+singing-room), at the back of the Grand Hotel, about 1765, well
+stocked; mushrooms and cucumbers were grown there in high perfection.
+
+In 1774, the house was opened by David Low as an hotel; the first
+family hotel, it is said, in London. Gold, silver, and copper medals
+were struck, and given by Low, as advertisements of his house; the
+gold to the princes, silver to the nobility, and copper to the public
+generally. About 1794, Mrs. Hudson, then proprietor, advertised her
+hotel, "with stabling for one hundred noblemen and horses." The next
+proprietors were Richardson and Joy.
+
+At the beginning of the present century, and some years afterwards,
+the hotel was famous for its large dinner- and coffee-room. This was
+called the "Star," from the number of men of rank who frequented it.
+One day a gentleman entered the dining-room, and ordered of the waiter
+two lamb-chops; at the same time inquiring, "John, have you a
+cucumber?" The waiter replied in the negative--it was so early in the
+season; but he would step into the market, and inquire if there were
+any. The waiter did so, and returned with--"There are a few, but they
+are half-a-guinea apiece." "Half-a-guinea apiece! are they small or
+large?" "Why, rather small." "Then buy two," was the reply. This
+incident has been related of various epicures; it occurred to Charles
+Duke of Norfolk, who died in 1815.
+
+Evans, of Covent-Garden Theatre, removed here from the Cider Cellar in
+Maiden-lane, and, using the large dining-room for a singing-room,
+prospered until 1844, when he resigned the property to Mr. John
+Green. Meanwhile, the character of the entertainment, by the selection
+of music of a higher class than hitherto, brought so great an
+accession of visitors, that Mr. Green built, in 1855, on the site of
+the old garden (Digby's garden) an extremely handsome hall, to which
+the former singing-room forms a sort of vestibule. The latter is hung
+with the collection of portraits of celebrated actors and actresses,
+mostly of our own time, which Mr. Green has been at great pains to
+collect.
+
+The _spécialité_ of this very agreeable place is the olden music,
+which is sung here with great intelligence and spirit; the visitors
+are of the better and more appreciative class, and often include
+amateurs of rank. The reserved gallery is said to occupy part of the
+site of the cottage in which the Kembles occasionally resided during
+the zenith of their fame at Covent-Garden Theatre; and here the gifted
+Fanny Kemble is said to have been born.
+
+
+THE FLEECE, COVENT GARDEN.
+
+The Restoration did not mend the morals of the taverns in Covent
+Garden, but increased their licentiousness, and made them the resort
+of bullies and other vicious persons. The Fleece, on the west side of
+Brydges-street, was notorious for its tavern broils; L'Estrange, in
+his translation of Quevedo's _Visions_, 1667, makes one of the Fleece
+hectors declare he was never well but either at the Fleece Tavern or
+Bear at Bridge-foot, stuffing himself "with food and tipple, till the
+hoops were ready to burst." According to Aubrey, the Fleece was "very
+unfortunate for homicides;" there were several killed there in his
+time; it was a private house till 1692. Aubrey places it in
+York-street, so that there must have been a back or second way to the
+tavern--a very convenient resource.
+
+
+THE BEDFORD HEAD, COVENT GARDEN.
+
+Was a luxurious refectory, in Southampton-street, whose epicurism is
+commemorated by Pope:--
+
+     "Let me extol a cat on oysters fed,
+     I'll have a party at the Bedford Head."
+
+     _2nd Sat. of Horace, 2nd Bk._
+
+     "When sharp with hunger, scorn you to be fed
+     Except on pea-chicks, at the Bedford Head?"
+
+     _Pope, Sober Advice.___
+
+Walpole refers to a great supper at the Bedford Head, ordered by Paul
+Whitehead, for a party of gentlemen dressed like sailors and masked,
+who, in 1741, on the night of Vernon's birthday, went round Covent
+Garden with a drum, beating up for a volunteer mob; but it did not
+take.
+
+
+THE SALUTATION, TAVISTOCK STREET.
+
+This was a noted tavern in the last century, at the corner of
+Tavistock-court, Covent Garden. Its original sign was taken down by
+Mr. Yerrel, the landlord, who informed J. T. Smith, that it consisted
+of two gentlemen saluting each other, dressed in flowing wigs, and
+coats with square pockets, large enough to hold folio books, and
+wearing swords, this being the dress of the time when the sign was put
+up, supposed to have been about 1707, the date on a stone at the
+Covent Garden end of the court.
+
+Richard Leveridge, the celebrated singer, kept the Salutation after
+his retirement from the stage; and here he brought out his _Collection
+of Songs_, with the music, engraved and printed for the author, 1727.
+
+Among the frequenters of the Salutation was William Cussans, or
+Cuzzons, a native of Barbadoes, and a most eccentric fellow, who lived
+upon an income allowed him by his family. He once hired himself as a
+potman, and then as a coal-heaver. He was never seen to smile. He
+personated a chimney-sweeper at the Pantheon and Opera-house
+masquerades, and wrote the popular song of Robinson Crusoe:
+
+         "He got all the wood
+         That ever he could,
+     And he stuck it together with glue so;
+         And made him a hut,
+         And in it he put
+     The carcase of Robinson Crusoe."
+
+He was a bacchanalian customer at the Salutation, and his nightly
+quantum of wine was liberal: he would sometimes take eight pints at a
+sitting, without being the least intoxicated.
+
+
+THE CONSTITUTION TAVERN, COVENT GARDEN.
+
+In Bedford-street, near St. Paul's church-gate, was an old tavern, the
+Constitution (now rebuilt), noted as the resort of working men of
+letters, and for its late hours; indeed, the sittings here were
+perennial. Among other eccentric persons we remember to have seen
+here, was an accomplished scholar named Churchill, who had travelled
+much in the East, smoked and ate opium to excess, and was full of
+information. Of another grade were two friends who lived in the same
+house, and had for many years "turned night into day;" rising at eight
+o'clock in the evening, and going to bed at eight next morning. They
+had in common some astrological, alchemical, and _spiritual_ notions,
+and often passed the whole night at the Constitution. This was the
+favourite haunt of Wilson, the landscape-painter, who then lived in
+the Garden; he could, at the Constitution, freely indulge in a pot of
+porter, and enjoy the fun of his brother-painter, Mortimer, who
+preferred this house, as it was near his own in Church-passage.
+
+
+THE CIDER CELLAR.
+
+This strange place, upon the south side of Maiden-lane, Covent Garden,
+was opened about 1730, and is described as a "Midnight Concert Room,"
+in _Adventures Underground_, 1750. Professor Porson was a great lover
+of cider, the patronymic drink for which the cellar was once famed; it
+became his nightly haunt, for wherever he spent the evening, he
+finished the night at the Cider Cellar. One night, in 1795, as he sat
+here smoking his pipe, with his friend George Gordon, he abruptly said,
+"Friend George, do you think the widow Lunan an agreeable sort of
+personage, as times go?" Gordon assented. "In that case," replied
+Porson, "you must meet me to-morrow morning at St. Martin's-in-the-Fields,
+at eight o'clock;" and without saying more, Porson paid his reckoning,
+and went home. Next morning, Gordon repaired to the church, and there
+found Porson with Mrs. Lunan and a female friend, and the parson
+waiting to begin the ceremony. The service being ended, the bride and
+her friend retired by one door of the church, and Porson and Gordon by
+another. The bride and bridegroom dined together with friends, but
+after dinner Porson contrived to slip away, and passed the rest of the
+day with a learned friend, and did not leave till the family were
+about to retire for the night, when Porson adjourned to the Cider
+Cellar, and there stayed till eight o'clock next morning. One of his
+companions here is said to have shouted before Porson, "Dick can beat
+us all: he can drink all night and spout all day," which greatly
+pleased the Professor.
+
+We remember the place not many years after Porson's death, when it
+was, as its name implied, _a cellar_, and the fittings were rude and
+rough: over the mantelpiece was a large mezzotint portrait of Porson,
+framed and glazed, which we take to be the missing portrait named by
+the Rev. Mr. Watson, in his Life of the Professor. The Cider Cellar
+was subsequently enlarged; but its exhibitions grew to be too
+sensational for long existence.
+
+
+OFFLEY'S, HENRIETTA-STREET.
+
+This noted tavern, of our day, enjoyed great and deserved celebrity,
+though short-lived. It was No. 23, on the south side of
+Henrietta-street, Covent Garden, and its fame rested upon Burton ale,
+and the largest supper-room in this theatrical neighbourhood; with no
+pictures, placards, paper-hangings, or vulgar coffee-room finery, to
+disturb one's relish of the good things there provided. Offley, the
+proprietor, was originally at Bellamy's, and "as such, was privileged
+to watch, and occasionally admitted to assist, the presiding priestess
+of the gridiron at the exercise of her mysteries." Offley's chop was
+thick and substantial; the House of Commons' chop was small and thin,
+and honourable Members sometimes ate a dozen at a sitting. Offley's
+chop was served with shalots shred, and warmed in gravy, and
+accompanied by nips of Burton ale, and was a delicious after-theatre
+supper. The large room at that hour was generally crowded with a
+higher class of men than are to be seen in taverns of the present day.
+There was excellent dining up-stairs, with wines really worth
+drinking--all with a sort of Quakerly plainness, but solid comfort.
+The fast men came to the great room, where the _spécialité_ was
+singing by amateurs upon one evening of the week; and to prevent the
+chorus waking the dead in their cerements in the adjoining churchyard,
+the coffee-room window was double. The "professionals" stayed away.
+Francis Crew sang Moore's melodies, then in their zenith; sometimes,
+in a spirit of waggery, an amateur would sing "Chevy Chase" in full;
+and now and then Offley himself trolled out one of Captain Morris's
+lyrics. Such was this right joyously convivial place some
+five-and-forty years since upon the singing night. Upon other
+evenings, there came to a large round table (a sort of privileged
+place) a few well-to-do, substantial tradesmen from the neighbourhood,
+among whom was the renowned surgical-instrument maker from the Strand,
+who had the sagacity to buy the iron from off the piles of old London
+Bridge, and convert it (after it had lain for centuries under water)
+into some of the finest surgical instruments of the day. Offley's,
+however, declined: the singing was discontinued; Time had thinned the
+ranks and groups of the bright and buoyant; the large room was mostly
+frequented by quiet, orderly persons, who kept good hours; the
+theatre-suppers grew few and far between; the merry old host
+departed,--when it was proposed to have his portrait painted--but in
+vain; success had ebbed away, and at length the house was closed.[39]
+
+Offley's was sketched with a free hand, in _Horæ Offleanæ, Bentley's
+Miscellany_, March, 1841.
+
+FOOTNOTE:
+
+[39] Walks and Talks about London, 1865, pp. 180-182.
+
+
+THE RUMMER TAVERN.
+
+The locality of this noted tavern is given by Cunningham, as "two
+doors from Locket's, between Whitehall and Charing Cross, removed to
+the water-side of Charing Cross, in 1710, and burnt down Nov. 7th,
+1750. It was kept in the reign of Charles II., by Samuel Prior, uncle
+of Matthew Prior, the poet, who thus wrote to Fleetwood Shephard:
+
+     "My uncle, rest his soul! when living,
+     Might have contriv'd me ways of thriving:
+     Taught me with cider to replenish
+     My vats, or ebbing tide of Rhenish.
+     So when for hock I drew prickt white-wine,
+     Swear't had the flavour, and was right wine."
+
+The Rummer is introduced by Hogarth into his picture of "Night." Here
+Jack Sheppard committed his first robbery by stealing two silver
+spoons.
+
+The Rummer, in Queen-street, was kept by Brawn, a celebrated cook, of
+whom Dr. King, in his _Art of Cookery_, speaks in the same way as
+Kit-Kat and Locket.
+
+King, also, in his _Analogy between Physicians, Cooks, and
+Playwrights_, thus describes a visit:--
+
+"Though I seldom go out of my own lodgings, I was prevailed on the
+other day to dine with some friends at the Rummer in Queen-street....
+Sam Trusty would needs have me go with him into the kitchen, and see
+how matters went there.... He assured me that Mr. Brawn had an art,
+etc. I was, indeed, very much pleased and surprised with the
+extraordinary splendour and economy I observed there; but above all
+with the great readiness and dexterity of the man himself. His motions
+were quick, but not precipitate; he in an instant applied himself from
+one stove to another, without the least appearance of hurry, and in
+the midst of smoke and fire preserved an incredible serenity of
+countenance."
+
+Beau Brummel, according to Mr. Jesse, spoke with a relish worthy a
+descendant of "the Rummer," of the savoury pies of his aunt Brawn, who
+then resided at Kilburn; she is said to have been the widow of a
+grandson of the celebrity of Queen-street, who had himself kept the
+public-house at the old Mews Gate, at Charing Cross.--See _Notes and
+Queries_, 2nd S., no. xxxvi.
+
+We remember an old tavern, "the Rummer," in 1825, which was taken down
+with the lower portion of St. Martin's-lane, to form Trafalgar-square.
+
+
+SPRING GARDEN TAVERNS.
+
+Spring Garden is named from its water-spring or fountain, set playing
+by the spectator treading upon its hidden machinery--an eccentricity
+of the Elizabethan garden. Spring Garden, by a patent which is extant,
+in 1630 was made a bowling-green by command of Charles I. "There was
+kept in it an ordinary of six shillings a meal (when the king's
+proclamation allows but two elsewhere); continual bibbing and drinking
+wine all day under the trees; two or three quarrels every week. It was
+grown scandalous and insufferable; besides, my Lord Digby being
+reprehended for striking in the king's garden, he said he took it for
+a common bowling-place, where all paid money for their coming
+in."--_Mr. Garrard to Lord Strafford._
+
+In 1634 Spring Garden was put down by the King's command, and ordered
+to be hereafter no common bowling-place. This led to the opening of "a
+New Spring Garden" (Shaver's Hall), by a gentleman-barber, a servant
+of the lord chamberlain's. The old garden was, however, re-opened; for
+13th June, 1649, says Evelyn, "I treated divers ladies of my
+relations in Spring Gardens;" but 10th May, 1654, he records that
+Cromwell and his partisans had shut up and seized on Spring Gardens,
+"w'ch till now had been ye usual rendezvous for the ladys and
+gallants at this season."
+
+Spring Garden was, however, once more re-opened; for, in _A Character
+of England_, 1659, it is described as "The inclosure not disagreeable,
+for the solemnness of the grove, the warbling of the birds, and as it
+opens into the spacious walks at St. James's.... It is usual to find
+some of the young company here till midnight; and the thickets of the
+garden seem to be contrived to all advantages of gallantry, after they
+have refreshed with the collation, which is here seldom omitted, at a
+certain cabaret in the middle of this paradise, where the forbidden
+fruits are certain trifling tarts, neats' tongues, salacious meats,
+and bad Rhenish."
+
+"The New Spring Garden" at Lambeth (afterwards Vauxhall) was
+flourishing in 1661-3; when the ground at Charing Cross was built
+upon, as "Inner Spring Garden" and "Outer Spring Garden."
+Buckingham-court is named from the Duke of Buckingham, one of the
+rakish frequenters of the Garden; and upon the site of Drummond's
+banking-house was "Locket's Ordinary, a house of entertainment much
+frequented by gentry," and a relic of the Spring Garden gaiety:
+
+     "For Locket's stands where gardens once did spring."
+
+     Dr. King's _Art of Cookery_, 1709.
+
+Here the witty and beautiful dramatist, Mrs. Centlivre, died, December
+1, 1723, at the house of her third husband, Joseph Centlivre, "Yeoman
+of the Mouth" (head cook) "to Queen Anne."[40] In her Prologue to
+_Love's Contrivances_, 1703, we have
+
+     "At Locket's, Brown's, and at Pontack's enquire
+     What modish kickshaws the nice beaux desire,
+     What famed ragouts, what new invented sallad,
+     Has best pretensions to regain the palate."
+
+Locket's was named from its first landlord:[41] its fame declined in
+the reign of Queen Anne, and expired early in the next reign.
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[40] Curiosities of London, pp. 678, 679.
+
+[41] Edward Locket, in 1693, took the Bowling-green House, on Putney
+Heath, where all gentlemen might be entertained. In a house built on
+the site of the above, died, Jan. 23, 1806, the Rt. Hon. William Pitt.
+
+
+"HEAVEN" AND "HELL" TAVERNS, WESTMINSTER.
+
+At the north end of Lindsay-lane, upon the site of the Committee-rooms
+of the House of Commons, was a tavern called "Heaven;" and under the
+old Exchequer Chamber were two subterraneous passages called "Hell"
+and "Purgatory." Butler, in _Hudibras_, mentions the first as
+
+     "False Heaven at the end of the Hell;"
+
+Gifford, in his notes on Ben Jonson, says: "Heaven and Hell were two
+common alehouses, abutting on Westminster Hall. Whalley says that they
+were standing in his remembrance. They are mentioned together with a
+third house, called Purgatory, in a grant which I have read, dated in
+the first year of Henry VII."
+
+Old Fuller quaintly says of Hell: "I could wish it had another name,
+seeing it is ill jesting with edged tools. I am informed that formerly
+this place was appointed a prison for the King's debtors, who never
+were freed thence until they had paid their uttermost due demanded of
+them. This proverb is since applied to moneys paid into the Exchequer,
+which thence are irrecoverable, upon what plea or pretence whatever."
+
+Peacham describes Hell as a place near Westminster Hall, "where very
+good meat is dressed all the term time;" and the Company of Parish
+Clerks add, it is "very much frequented by lawyers." According to Ben
+Jonson, Hell appears to have been frequented by lawyers' clerks; for,
+in his play of the _Alchemist_, Dapper is forbidden
+
+     "To break his fast in Heaven or Hell."
+
+Hugh Peters, on his Trial, tells us that he went to Westminster to
+find out some company to dinner with him, and having walked about an
+hour in Westminster Hall, and meeting none of his friends to dine with
+him, he went "to that place called Heaven, and dined there."
+
+When Pride "purged" the Parliament, on Dec. 6, 1648, the forty-one he
+excepted were shut up for the night in the Hell tavern, kept by a Mr.
+Duke (_Carlyle_); and which Dugdale calls "their great victualling-house
+near Westminster Hall, where they kept them all night without any
+beds."
+
+Pepys, in his _Diary_, thus notes his visit: "28 Jan. 1659-60. And so
+I returned and went to Heaven, where Ludlin and I dined." Six years
+later, at the time of the Restoration, four days before the King
+landed, in one of these taverns, Pepys spent the evening with Locke
+and Purcell, hearing a variety of brave Italian and Spanish songs, and
+a new canon of Locke's on the words, "Domine salvum fac Regem." "Here,
+out of the windows," he says, "it was a most pleasant sight to see the
+City, from one end to the other, with a glory about it, so high was
+the light of the bonfires, and thick round the City, and the bells
+rang everywhere."
+
+After all, "Hell" may have been so named from its being a prison of
+the King's debtors, most probably a very bad one: it was also called
+the Constabulary. Its Wardenship was valued yearly at the sum of
+11_s._, and Paradise at 4_l._
+
+Purgatory appears also to have been an ancient prison, the keys of
+which, attached to a leathern girdle, says Walcot's _Westminster_, are
+still preserved. Herein were kept the ducking-stools for scolds, who
+were placed in a chair fastened on an iron pivot to the end of a long
+pole, which was balanced at the middle upon a high trestle, thus
+allowing the culprit's body to be _ducked_ in the Thames.
+
+
+"BELLAMY'S KITCHEN."
+
+In a pleasantly written book, entitled _A Career in the Commons_, we
+find this sketch of the singular apartment, in the vicinity of the
+(Old) House of Commons called "the Kitchen." "Mr. Bellamy's beer may
+be unexceptionable, and his chops and steaks may be unrivalled, but
+the legislators of England delight in eating a dinner in the place
+where it is cooked, and in the presence of the very fire where the
+beef hisses and the gravy runs! Bellamy's kitchen seems, in fact, a
+portion of the British Constitution. A foreigner, be he a Frenchman,
+American, or Dutchman, if introduced to the 'kitchen,' would stare
+with astonishment if you told him that in this plain apartment, with
+its immense fire, meatscreen, gridirons, and a small tub under the
+window for washing the glasses, the statesmen of England very often
+dine, and men, possessed of wealth untold, and with palaces of their
+own, in which luxury and splendour are visible in every part, are
+willing to leave their stately dining-halls and powdered attendants,
+to be waited upon, while eating a chop in Bellamy's kitchen, by two
+unpretending old women. Bellamy's kitchen, I repeat, is part and
+parcel of the British Constitution. Baronets who date from the
+Conquest, and squires of every degree, care nothing for the unassuming
+character of the 'kitchen,' if the steak be hot and good, if it can be
+quickly and conveniently dispatched, and the tinkle of the
+division-bell can be heard while the dinner proceeds. Call England a
+proud nation, forsooth! Say that the House of Commons is aristocratic!
+Both the nation and its representatives must be, and are,
+unquestionable patterns of republican humility, if all the pomp and
+circumstance of dining can be forgotten in Bellamy's kitchen!"[42]
+
+FOOTNOTE:
+
+[42] At the noted Cat and Bagpipes tavern, at the south-west corner of
+Downing-street, George Rose used to eat his mutton-chop; he
+subsequently became Secretary to the Treasury.
+
+
+A COFFEE-HOUSE CANARY-BIRD.
+
+Of "a great Coffee-house" in Pall Mall we find the following amusing
+story, in the _Correspondence of Gray and Mason_, edited by Mitford:
+
+"In the year 1688, my Lord Peterborough had a great mind to be well
+with Lady Sandwich, Mrs. Bonfoy's old friend. There was a woman who
+kept a great Coffee-house in Pall Mall, and she had a miraculous
+canary-bird that piped twenty tunes. Lady Sandwich was fond of such
+things, had heard of and seen the bird. Lord Peterborough came to the
+woman, and offered her a large sum of money for it; but she was rich,
+and proud of it, and would not part with it for love or money.
+However, he watched the bird narrowly, observed all its marks and
+features, went and bought just such another, sauntered into the
+coffee-room, took his opportunity when no one was by, slipped the
+wrong bird into the cage and the right into his pocket, and went off
+undiscovered to make my Lady Sandwich happy. This was just about the
+time of the Revolution; and, a good while after, going into the same
+coffee-house again, he saw his bird there, and said, 'Well, I reckon
+you would give your ears now that you had taken my money.' 'Money!'
+says the woman, 'no, nor ten times that money now, dear little
+creature! for, if your lordship will believe me (as I am a Christian,
+it is true), it has moped and moped, and never once opened its pretty
+lips since the day that the poor king went away!"
+
+
+STAR AND GARTER, PALL MALL. FATAL DUEL.
+
+Pall Mall has long been noted for its taverns, as well as for its
+chocolate- and coffee-houses, and "houses for clubbing." They were
+resorted to by gay nobility and men of estate; and, in times when
+gaming and drinking were indulged in to frightful excess, these
+taverns often proved hot-beds of quarrel and fray. One of the most
+sanguinary duels on record--that between the Duke of Hamilton and Lord
+Mohun--was planned at the Queen's Arms, in Pall Mall, and the Rose in
+Covent Garden; at the former, Lord Mohun supped with his second on the
+two nights preceding the fatal conflict in Hyde Park.
+
+Still more closely associated with Pall Mall was the fatal duel
+between Lord Byron and Mr. Chaworth, which was _fought in a room_ of
+the Star and Garter, when the grand-uncle of the poet Lord killed in a
+duel, or rather scuffle, his relation and neighbour, "who was run
+through the body, and died next day." The duellists were neighbours in
+the country, and were members of the Nottinghamshire Club, which met
+at the Star and Garter once a month.
+
+The meeting at which arose the unfortunate dispute that produced the
+duel, was on the 26th of January, 1765, when were present Mr. John
+Hewet, who sat as chairman; the Hon. Thomas Willoughby; Frederick
+Montagu, John Sherwin, Francis Molyneux, Esqrs., and Lord Byron;
+William Chaworth, George Donston, and Charles Mellish, junior, Esq.;
+and Sir Robert Burdett; who were all the company. The usual hour of
+dining was soon after four, and the rule of the Club was to have the
+bill and a bottle brought in at seven. Till this hour all was jollity
+and good-humour; but Mr. Hewet, happening to start some conversation
+about the best method of preserving game, setting the laws for that
+purpose out of the question, Mr. Chaworth and Lord Byron were of
+different opinions; Mr. Chaworth insisting on severity against
+poachers and unqualified persons; and Lord Byron declaring that the
+way to have most game was to take no care of it at all. Mr. Chaworth,
+in confirmation of what he had said, insisted that Sir Charles Sedley
+and himself had more game on five acres than Lord Byron had on all his
+manors. Lord Byron, in reply, proposed a bet of 100 guineas, but this
+was not laid. Mr. Chaworth then said, that were it not for Sir Charles
+Sedley's care, and his own, Lord Byron would not have a hare on his
+estate; and his Lordship asking with a smile, what Sir Charles
+Sedley's manors were, was answered by Mr. Chaworth,--Nuttall and
+Bulwell. Lord Byron did not dispute Nuttall, but added, Bulwell was
+his; on which Mr. Chaworth, with some heat, replied: "If you want
+information as to Sir Charles Sedley's manors, he lives at Mr.
+Cooper's, in Dean Street, and, I doubt not, will be ready to give you
+satisfaction; and, as to myself, your Lordship knows where to find me,
+in Berkeley Row."
+
+The subject was now dropped; and little was said, when Mr. Chaworth
+called to settle the reckoning, in doing which the master of the
+tavern observed him to be flurried. In a few minutes, Mr. Chaworth
+having paid the bill, went out, and was followed by Mr. Donston, whom
+Mr. C. asked if he thought he had been short in what he had said; to
+which Mr. D. replied, "No; he had gone rather too far upon so trifling
+an occasion, but did not believe that Lord Byron or the company would
+think any more of it." Mr. Donston then returned to the club-room.
+Lord Byron now came out, and found Mr. Chaworth still on the stairs:
+it is doubtful whether his Lordship called upon Mr. Chaworth, or Mr.
+Chaworth called upon Lord Byron; but both went down to the first
+landing-place--having dined upon the second floor--and both called a
+waiter to show an empty room, which the waiter did, having first
+opened the door, and placed a small tallow-candle, which he had in his
+hand, on the table; he then retired, when the gentlemen entered, and
+shut the door after them.
+
+In a few minutes the affair was decided: the bell was rung, but by
+whom is uncertain: the waiter went up, and perceiving what had
+happened, ran down very frightened, told his master of the
+catastrophe, when he ran up to the room, and found the two antagonists
+standing close together: Mr. Chaworth had his sword in his left hand,
+and Lord Byron his sword in his right; Lord Byron's left hand was
+round Mr. Chaworth, and Mr. Chaworth's right hand was round Lord
+Byron's neck, and over his shoulder. Mr. C. desired Mr. Fynmore, the
+landlord, to take his sword, and Lord B. delivered up his sword at the
+same moment: a surgeon was sent for, and came immediately. In the
+meantime, six of the company entered the room; when Mr. Chaworth said
+that "he could not live many hours; that he forgave Lord Byron, and
+hoped the world would; that the affair had passed in the dark, only a
+small tallow-candle burning in the room; that Lord Byron asked him, if
+he addressed the observation on the game to Sir Charles Sedley, or to
+him?--to which he replied, 'If you have anything to say, we had better
+shut the door;' that while he was doing this, Lord Byron bid him draw,
+and in turning he saw his Lordship's sword half-drawn, on which he
+whipped out his own sword and made the first pass; that the sword
+being through my Lord's waistcoat, he thought that he had killed him;
+and, asking whether he was not mortally wounded, Lord Byron, while he
+was speaking, shortened his sword, and stabbed him in the belly."
+
+When Mr. Mawkins, the surgeon, arrived, he found Mr. Chaworth sitting
+by the fire, with the lower part of his waistcoat open, his shirt
+bloody, and his hand upon his belly. He inquired if he was in
+immediate danger, and being answered in the affirmative, he desired
+his uncle, Mr. Levinz, might be sent for. In the meantime, he stated
+to Mr. Hawkins, that Lord Byron and he (Mr. Chaworth) entered the room
+together; that his Lordship said something of the dispute, on which
+he, Mr. C., fastened the door, and turning round, perceived his
+Lordship with his sword either drawn or nearly so; on which he
+instantly drew his own and made a thrust at him, which he thought had
+wounded or killed him; that then perceiving his Lordship shorten his
+sword to return the thrust, he thought to have parried it with his
+left hand, at which he looked twice, imagining that he had cut it in
+the attempt; that he felt the sword enter his body, and go deep
+through his back; that he struggled, and being the stronger man,
+disarmed his Lordship, and expressed his apprehension that he had
+mortally wounded him; that Lord Byron replied by saying something to
+the like effect; adding that he hoped now he would allow him to be as
+brave a man as any in the kingdom.
+
+After a little while, Mr. Chaworth seemed to grow stronger, and was
+removed to his own house: additional medical advice arrived, but no
+relief could be given him: he continued sensible till his death. Mr.
+Levinz, his uncle, now arrived with an attorney, to whom Mr. Chaworth
+gave very sensible and distinct instructions for making his will. The
+will was then executed, and the attorney, Mr. Partington, committed to
+writing the last words Mr. Chaworth was heard to say. This writing was
+handed to Mr. Levinz, and gave rise to a report that a paper was
+written by the deceased, and sealed up, not to be opened till the time
+that Lord Byron should be tried; but no paper was written by Mr.
+Chaworth, and that written by Mr. Partington was as follows: "Sunday
+morning, the 27th of January, about three of the clock, Mr. Chaworth
+said, that my Lord's sword was half-drawn, and that he, knowing the
+man, immediately, or as quick as he could, whipped out his sword, and
+had the first thrust; that then my Lord wounded him, and he disarmed
+my Lord, who then said, 'By G--, I have as much courage as any man in
+England.'"
+
+Lord Byron was committed to the Tower, and was tried before the House
+of Peers, in Westminster Hall, on the 16th and 17th of April, 1765.
+Lord Byron's defence was reduced by him into writing, and read by the
+clerk. The Peers present, including the High Steward, declared Lord
+Byron, on their honour, to be not guilty of murder, but of
+manslaughter; with the exception of four Peers, who found him not
+guilty generally. On this verdict being given, Lord Byron was called
+upon to say why judgment of manslaughter should not be pronounced upon
+him. His Lordship immediately claimed the benefit of the 1st Edward
+VI. cap. 12, a statute, by which, whenever a Peer was convicted of
+any felony for which a commoner might have Benefit of Clergy, such
+Peer, on praying the benefit of that Act, was always to be discharged
+without burning in the hand, or any penal consequence whatever. The
+claim of Lord Byron being accordingly allowed, he was forthwith
+discharged on payment of his fees. This singular privilege was
+supposed to be abrogated by the 7 & 8 Geo. IV. cap. 28, s. 6, which
+abolished Benefit of Clergy; but some doubt arising on the subject, it
+was positively put an end to by the 4 & 5 Vict. cap. 22. (See
+_Celebrated Trials connected with the Aristocracy_, by Mr. Serjeant
+Burke.)
+
+Mr. Chaworth was the descendant of one of the oldest houses in
+England, a branch of which obtained an Irish peerage. His grand-niece,
+the eventual heiress of the family, was Mary Chaworth, the object of
+the early unrequited love of Lord Byron, the poet. Singularly enough,
+there was the same degree of relationship between that nobleman and
+the Lord Byron who killed Mr. Chaworth, as existed between the latter
+unfortunate gentleman and Mr. Chaworth.[43]
+
+Several stories are told of the high charges of the Star and Garter
+Tavern, even in the reign of Queen Anne. The Duke of Ormond, who gave
+here a dinner to a few friends, was charged twenty-one pounds, six
+shillings, and eight pence, for four, that is, first and second
+course, without wine or dessert.
+
+From the _Connoisseur_ of 1754, we learn that the fools of quality of
+that day "drove to the Star and Garter to regale on macaroni, or
+piddle with an ortolan at White's or Pontac's."
+
+At the Star and Garter, in 1774, was formed the first Cricket Club.
+Sir Horace Mann, who had promoted cricket in Kent, and the Duke of
+Dorset and Lord Tankerville, leaders of the Surrey and Hants Eleven,
+conjointly with other noblemen and gentlemen, formed a committee under
+the presidency of Sir William Draper. They met at the Star and Garter,
+and laid down the first rules of cricket, which very rules form the
+basis of the laws of cricket of this day.
+
+FOOTNOTE:
+
+[43] Abridged from the Romance of London, vol. i. pp. 225-232.
+
+
+THATCHED-HOUSE TAVERN, ST. JAMES'S-STREET.
+
+     "Come and once more together let us greet
+     The long-lost pleasures of St. James's-street."--_Tickell._
+
+Little more than a century and a half ago the parish of St. James was
+described as "all the houses and grounds comprehended in a place
+heretofore called 'St. James's Fields' and the confines thereof."
+Previously to this, the above tavern was most probably a _thatched
+house_. St. James's-street dates from 1670: the poets Waller and Pope
+lived here; Sir Christopher Wren died here, in 1723; as did Gibbon,
+the historian, in 1794, at Elmsley's, the bookseller's, at No. 76, at
+the corner of Little St. James's-street. Fox lived next to Brookes's
+in 1781; and Lord Byron lodged at No. 8, in 1811. At the south-west
+end was the St. James's Coffee-house, taken down in 1806; the foreign
+and domestic news house of the _Tatler_, and the "fountain-head" of
+the _Spectator_. Thus early, the street had a sort of literary
+fashion favourable to the growth of taverns and clubs.
+
+The Thatched House, which was taken down in 1844 and 1863, had been
+for nearly two centuries celebrated for its club meetings, its large
+public room, and its public dinners, especially those of our
+universities and great schools. It was one of Swift's favourite
+haunts: in some birthday verses he sings:--
+
+     "The Deanery-house may well be matched,
+     Under correction, with the Thatch'd."
+
+The histories of some of the principal Clubs which met here, will be
+found in Vol. I.; as the Brothers, Literary, Dilettanti, and others;
+(besides a list, page 318.)
+
+The Royal Naval Club held its meetings at the Thatched House, as did
+some art societies and kindred associations. The large club-room faced
+St. James's-street, and when lit in the evening with wax-candles in
+large old glass chandeliers, the Dilettanti pictures could be seen
+from the pavement of the street. Beneath the tavern front was a range
+of low-built shops, including that of Rowland, or Rouland, the
+fashionable coiffeur, who charged five shillings for cutting hair, and
+made a large fortune by his "incomparable _Huile_ Macassar." Through
+the tavern was a passage to Thatched House-court, in the rear; and
+here, in Catherine-Wheel-alley, in the last century, lived the good
+old widow Delany, after the Doctor's death, as noted in her
+Autobiography, edited by Lady Llanover. Some of Mrs. Delany's
+fashionable friends then resided in Dean-street, Soho.
+
+Thatched House-court and the alley have been swept away. Elmsley's was
+removed for the site of the Conservative Club, In an adjoining house
+lived the famous Betty, "the queen of apple-women," whom Mason has
+thus embalmed in his _Heroic Epistle_:--
+
+     "And patriot Betty fix her fruitshop here."
+
+It was a famous place for gossip. Walpole says of a story much about,
+"I should scruple repeating it, if Betty and the waiters at Arthur's
+did not talk of it publicly." Again, "Would you know what officer's on
+guard in Betty's fruitshop?"
+
+The Tavern, which has disappeared, was nearly the last relic of old
+St. James's-street, although its memories survive in various modern
+Club-houses, and the Thatched House will be kept in mind by the
+graceful sculpture of the Civil Service Clubhouse, erected upon a
+portion of the site.
+
+
+"THE RUNNING FOOTMAN," MAY FAIR.
+
+This sign, in Charles-street, Berkeley Square, carries us back to the
+days of bad roads, and journeying at snail's pace, when the travelling
+equipage of the nobility required that one or more men should run in
+front of the carriage, chiefly as a mark of the rank of the traveller;
+they were likewise sent on messages, and occasionally for great
+distances.
+
+The running footman required to be a healthy and active man; he wore a
+light black cap, a jockey-coat, and carried a pole with at the top a
+hollow ball, in which he kept a hard-boiled egg and a little white
+wine, to serve as refreshment on his journey; and this is supposed to
+be the origin of the footman's silver-mounted cane. The Duke of
+Queensberry, who died in 1810, kept a running footman longer than his
+compeers in London; and Mr. Thoms, in _Notes and Queries_, relates an
+amusing anecdote of a man who came to be hired for the duty by the
+Duke. His Grace was in the habit of trying their paces, by seeing how
+they could run up and down Piccadilly, he watching them and timing
+them from his balcony. The man put on a livery before the trial; on
+one occasion, a candidate, having run, stood before the balcony. "You
+will do very well for me," said the Duke. "And your livery will do
+very well for me," replied the man, and gave the Duke a last proof of
+his ability by running away with it.
+
+The sign in Charles-street represents a young man, dressed in a kind
+of livery, and a cap with a feather in it; he carries the usual pole,
+and is running; and beneath is "I am the only running Footman," which
+may relate to the superior speed of the runner, and this may be a
+portrait of a celebrity.
+
+Kindred to the above is the old sign of "The Two Chairmen," in
+Warwick-street, Charing Cross,[44] recalling the sedans or chairs of
+Pall Mall; and there is a similar sign on Hay Hill.
+
+FOOTNOTE:
+
+[44] The old Golden Cross Inn, Charing Cross, stood a short distance
+west of the present Golden Cross Hotel, No. 452, Strand. Of the former
+we read: "April 23, 1643. It was at this period, by order of the
+Committee or Commission appointed by the House, the sign of a tavern,
+the Golden Cross, at Charing Cross, was taken down, as superstitious
+and idolatrous."--In Suffolk-street, Haymarket, was the Tavern before
+which took place "the Calves' Head Club" riot.--See Vol. I., p. 27.
+
+
+PICCADILLY INNS AND TAVERNS.
+
+Piccadilly was long noticed for the variety and extent of its Inns and
+Taverns, although few remain. At the east end were formerly the Black
+Bear and White Bear (originally the Fleece), nearly opposite each
+other. The Black Bear was taken down 1820. The White Bear remains: it
+occurs in St. Martin's parish-books, 1685: here Chatelain and
+Sullivan, the engravers, died; and Benjamin West, the painter, lodged,
+the first night after his arrival from America. Strype mentions the
+White Horse Cellar in 1720; and the booking-office of the New White
+Horse Cellar is to this day in "the cellar." The Three Kings stables
+gateway, No. 75, had two Corinthian pilasters, stated by Disraeli to
+have belonged to Clarendon House: "the stable-yard at the back
+presents the features of an old galleried inn-yard, and it is noted as
+the place from which General Palmer started the first Bath
+mail-coach." (J. W. Archer: _Vestiges_, part vi.) The Hercules'
+Pillars (a sign which meant that no habitation was to be found beyond
+it) stood a few yards west of Hamilton-place, and has been mentioned.
+The Hercules' Pillars, and another roadside tavern, the Triumphant
+Car, were standing about 1797, and were mostly frequented by soldiers.
+Two other Piccadilly inns, the White Horse and Half Moon, both of
+considerable extent, have given names to streets.
+
+The older and more celebrated house of entertainment was Piccadilly
+Hall, which appears to have been built by one Robert Baker, in "the
+fields behind the Mews," leased to him by St. Martin's parish, and
+sold by his widow to Colonel Panton, who built Panton-square and
+Panton-street. Lord Clarendon, in his _History of the Rebellion_,
+speaks of "Mr. Hyde going to a house called Piccadilly for
+entertainment and gaming:" this house, with its gravel-walks and
+bowling-greens, extended from the corner of Windmill-street and the
+site of Panton-square, as shown in Porter and Faithorne's Map, 1658.
+Mr. Cunningham found (see _Handbook_, 2nd edit. p. 396), in the parish
+accounts of St. Martin's, "Robt Backer, of Pickadilley Halle;" and the
+receipts for Lammas money paid for the premises as late as 1670. Sir
+John Suckling, the poet, was one of the frequenters; and Aubrey
+remembered Suckling's "sisters coming to the Peccadillo bowling-green,
+crying, for the feare he should lose all their portions." The house
+was taken down about 1685: a tennis-court in the rear remained to our
+time, upon the site of the Argyll Rooms, Great Windmill-street. The
+Society of Antiquaries possess a printed proclamation (_temp._ Charles
+II. 1671) against the increase of buildings in Windmill-fields and the
+fields adjoining Soho; and in the Plan of 1658, Great Windmill-street
+consists of straggling houses, and a windmill in a field west.
+
+Colonel Panton, who is named above, was a celebrated gamester of the
+time of the Restoration, and in one night, it is said, he won as many
+thousands as purchased him an estate of above 1500_l._ a year. "After
+this good fortune," says Lucas, "he had such an aversion against all
+manner of games, that he would never handle cards or dice again; but
+lived very handsomely on his winnings to his dying day, which was in
+the year 1681." He was the last proprietor of Piccadilly Hall, and was
+in possession of land on the site of the streets and buildings which
+bear his name, as early as the year 1664. Yet we remember to have
+seen it stated that Panton-street was named from a particular kind of
+horse-shoe called a _panton_; and from its contiguity to the
+Haymarket, this origin was long credited.
+
+At the north-east end of the Haymarket stood the Gaming-house built by
+the barber of the Earl of Pembroke, and hence called Shaver's Hall: it
+is described by Garrard, in a letter to Lord Strafford in 1635, as "a
+new Spring Gardens, erected in the fields beyond the Mews:" its
+tennis-court remains in James-street.
+
+From a Survey of the Premises, made in 1650, we gather that Shaver's
+Hall was strongly built of brick, and covered with lead: its large
+"seller" was divided into six rooms; above these four rooms, and the
+same in the first storey, to which was a balcony, with a prospect
+southward to the bowling-alleys. In the second storey were six rooms;
+and over the same a walk, leaded, and enclosed with rails, "very
+curiously carved and wrought," as was also the staircase, throughout
+the house. On the west were large kitchens and coal-house, with lofts
+over, "as also one faire Tennis Court," of brick, tiled, "well
+accommodated with all things fitting for the same;" with upper rooms;
+and at the entrance gate to the upper bowling-green, a parlour-lodge;
+and a double flight of steps descending to the lower bowling alley;
+there was still another bowling alley, and an orchard-wall, planted
+with choice fruit-trees; "as also one pleasant banqueting house, and
+one other faire and pleasant Roome, called the Greene Roome, and one
+other Conduit-house, and 2 other Turrets adjoininge to the walls. The
+ground whereon the said buildings stand, together with 2 fayre Bowling
+Alleys, orchard gardens, gravily walks, and other green walks, and
+Courts and Courtyards, containinge, by estimacion, 3 acres and 3
+qrs., lying betweene a Roadway leading from Charinge Crosse to
+Knightsbridge west, now in the possession of Captayne Geeres, and is
+worth per ann. clli."[45]
+
+FOOTNOTE:
+
+[45] In Jermyn-street, Haymarket, was the One Tun Tavern, a haunt of
+Sheridan's; and, upon the site of "the Little Theatre," is the Café de
+l'Europe.
+
+
+ISLINGTON TAVERNS.
+
+If you look at a Map of London, in the reign of Queen Elizabeth, the
+openness of the northern suburbs is very remarkable. Cornhill was then
+a clear space, and the ground thence to Bishopsgate-street was
+occupied as gardens. The Spitalfields were entirely open, and
+Shoreditch church was nearly the last building of London in that
+direction. Moorfields were used for drying linen; while cattle grazed,
+and archers shot, in Finsbury Fields, at the verge of which were three
+windmills. On the western side of Smithfield was a row of trees.
+Goswell-street was a lonely road, and Islington church stood in the
+distance, with a few houses and gardens near it. St. Giles's was also
+a small village, with open country north and west.
+
+The ancient Islington continued to be a sort of dairy-farm for the
+metropolis. Like her father, Henry VIII., Elizabeth paid frequent
+visits to this neighbourhood, where some wealthy commoners dwelt; and
+her partiality to the place left many evidences in old houses, and
+spots traditionally said to have been visited by the Queen, whose
+delight it was to go among her people.
+
+Islington retained a few of its Elizabethan houses to our times; and
+its rich dairies were of like antiquity: in the entertainment given to
+Queen Elizabeth at Kenilworth Castle, in 1575, the Squier Minstrel of
+Middlesex glorifies Islington with the motto, "_Lac caseus infans_;"
+and it is still noted for its cow-keepers. It was once as famous for
+its cheese-cakes as Chelsea for its buns; and among its other
+notabilities were custards and stewed "pruans," its mineral spa and
+its ducking-ponds; Ball's Pond dates from the time of Charles I. At
+the lower end of Islington, in 1611, were eight inns, principally
+supported by summer visitors:
+
+     "Hogsdone, _Islington_, and Tothnam Court,
+     For cakes and creame had then no small resort."
+
+     Wither's _Britain's Remembrancer_, 1628.
+
+Among the old inns and public-houses were the Crown apparently of the
+reign of Henry VII., and the Old Queen's Head of about the same date:
+
+     "The Queen's Head and Crown in Islington town,
+     Bore, for its brewing, the brightest renown."
+
+Near the Green, the Duke's Head, was kept by Topham, "the strong man
+of Islington;" in Frog-lane, the Barley-mow, where George Morland
+painted; at the Old Parr's Head, in Upper-street, Henderson the
+tragedian first acted; the Three Hats, near the turnpike, was taken
+down in 1839; and of the Angel, originally a galleried inn, a drawing
+may be seen at the present inn. Timber gables and rudely-carved
+brackets are occasionally to be seen in house-fronts; also here and
+there an old "house of entertainment," which, with the little
+remaining of "the Green," remind one of Islington village.
+
+The Old Queen's Head was the finest specimen in the neighbourhood of
+the domestic architecture of the reign of Henry VII. It consisted of
+three storeys, projecting over each other in front, with bay-windows
+supported by brackets, and figures carved in wood. The entrance was by
+a central porch, supported by caryatides of oak, bearing Ionic
+scrolls. To the left was the Oak Parlour, with carved mantelpiece, of
+chest-like form; and caryatid jambs, supporting a slab sculptured with
+the story of Diana and Actæon. The ceiling was a shield, bearing J. M.
+in a glory, with cherubim, two heads of Roman emperors, with fish,
+flowers, and other figures, within wreathed borders, with bosses of
+acorns.
+
+White Conduit House was first built in the fields, in the reign of
+Charles I., and was named from a stone conduit, 1641, which supplied
+the Charterhouse with water by a leaden pipe. The tavern was
+originally a small ale and cake house: Sir William Davenant describes
+a City wife going to the fields to "sop her cake in milke;" and
+Goldsmith speaks of tea-drinking parties here with hot-rolls and
+butter. White Conduit rolls were nearly as famous as Chelsea buns. The
+Wheel Pond close by was a noted place for duck-hunting.
+
+In May, 1760, a poetical description of White Conduit House appeared
+in the _Gentleman's Magazine_. A description of the old place, in
+1774, presents a general picture of the tea-garden of that period: "It
+is formed into walks, prettily disposed. At the end of the principal
+one is a painting which seems to render it (the walk) in appearance
+longer than it really is. In the centre of the garden is a fish-pond.
+There are boxes for company, curiously cut into hedges, adorned with
+Flemish and other paintings. There are two handsome tea-rooms, and
+several inferior ones." To these were added a new dancing and
+tea-saloon, called the Apollo Room. In 1826, the gardens were opened
+as a minor Vauxhall; and here the charming vocalist, Mrs. Bland, last
+sang in public. In 1832, the original tavern was taken down, and
+rebuilt upon a much larger plan: in its principal room 2000 persons
+could dine. In 1849, these premises were also taken down, the tavern
+rebuilt upon a smaller scale, and the garden-ground let on building
+leases.
+
+Cricket was played here by the White Conduit Club, as early as 1799;
+and one of its attendants, Thomas Lord, subsequently established the
+Marylebone Club.
+
+White Conduit House was for some years kept by Mr. Christopher
+Bartholomew, at one time worth 50,000_l._ He had some fortunate hits
+in the State Lottery, and celebrated his good fortune by a public
+breakfast in his gardens. He was known to spend upwards of 2000
+guineas a day for insurance: fortune forsook him, and he passed the
+latter years of his life in great poverty, partly subsisting on
+charity. But his gambling propensity led him, in 1807, to purchase
+with a friend a sixteenth of a lottery-ticket, which was drawn a prize
+of 20,000_l._, with his moiety of which he purchased a small annuity,
+which he soon sold, and died in distress, in 1809.
+
+Bagnigge Wells, on the banks of the Fleet brook, between Clerkenwell
+and old St. Pancras church, was another tavern of this class. We
+remember its concert-room and organ, its grottoes, fountain and
+fishpond, its trim trees, its grotesque costumed figures, and its bust
+of Nell Gwynne to support the tradition that she had a house here.
+
+A comedy of the seventeenth century has its scene laid at the
+Saracen's Head, an old hostelrie, which in Queen Mary's reign had been
+hallowed by secret Protestant devotion, and stood between River Lane
+and the City Road.
+
+Highbury Barn, upon the site of the barn of the monks of Canonbury,
+was another noted tavern.[46] Nearly opposite Canonbury Tower are the
+remains of a last-century tea-garden; and in Barnsbury is a similar
+relic. And on the entrance of a coppice of trees is Hornsey Wood
+House, a tavern with a delightful prospect.
+
+Islington abounds in chalybeate springs, resembling the Tunbridge
+Wells water; one of which was rediscovered in 1683, in the garden of
+Sadler's music-house, subsequently Sadler's Wells Theatre; and at the
+Sir Hugh Myddelton's Head tavern was formerly a conversation-picture
+with twenty-eight portraits of the Sadler's Wells Club. In Spa Fields,
+was held "Gooseberry Fair," where the stalls of gooseberry-fool vied
+with the "threepenny tea-booths," and the beer at "my Lord Cobham's
+Head," which denotes the site of the mansion of Sir John Oldcastle,
+the Wickliffite, burnt in 1417.
+
+FOOTNOTE:
+
+[46] Canonbury Tavern was in the middle of the last century a small
+ale-house. It was taken by a Mr. Lane, who had been a private soldier:
+he improved the house, but its celebrity was gained by the widow
+Sutton, who kept the place from 1785 to 1808, and built new rooms, and
+laid out the bowling-green and tea-gardens. An Assembly was first
+established here in the year 1810. Nearly the entire premises, which
+then occupied about four acres, were situated within the old park wall
+of the Priory of St. Bartholomew; it formed, indeed, a part of the
+eastern side of the house; the ancient fish-pond was also connected
+with the grounds. The Tavern has been rebuilt.
+
+
+COPENHAGEN HOUSE.
+
+This old suburban tavern, which stood in Copenhagen Fields, Islington,
+was cleared away in forming the site of the New Cattle Market.
+
+The house had a curious history. In the time of Nelson, the historian
+of Islington (1811), it was a house of considerable resort, the
+situation affording a fine prospect over the western part of the
+metropolis. Adjoining the house was a small garden, furnished with
+seats and tables for the accommodation of company; and a fives ground.
+The principal part of Copenhagen House, although much altered, was
+probably as old as the time of James I., and is traditionally said to
+have derived its name from having been the residence of a Danish
+prince or ambassador during the Great Plague of 1665. Hone, in 1838,
+says: "It is certain that Copenhagen House has been licensed for the
+sale of beer, wine, and spirits, upwards of a century; and for
+refreshments, and as a tea-house, with garden and ground for skittles
+and Dutch pins, it has been greatly resorted to by Londoners." The
+date of this hostelry must be older than stated by Hone. Cunningham
+says: "A public-house or tavern in the parish of Islington, is called
+Coopenhagen in the map before Bishop Gibson's edition of Camden,
+1695."
+
+About the year 1770 this house was kept by a person named Harrington.
+At his decease the business was continued by his widow, wherein she
+was assisted for several years by a young woman from Shropshire. This
+female assistant afterwards married a person named Tomes, from whom
+Hone got much information respecting Copenhagen-house. In 1780--the
+time of the London Riots--a body of the rioters passed on their way to
+attack the seat of Lord Mansfield at Caen-wood; happily, they passed
+by without doing any damage, but Mrs. Harrington and her maid were so
+much alarmed that they dispatched a man to Justice Hyde, who sent a
+party of soldiers to garrison the place, where they remained until the
+riots were ended. From this spot the view of the nightly
+conflagrations in the metropolis must have been terrific. Mrs. Tomes
+says she saw nine fires at one time. On the New Year's-day previous to
+this, Mrs. Harrington was not so fortunate. After the family had
+retired to rest, a party of burglars forced the kitchen window, and
+mistaking the salt-box, in the chimney corner, for a man's head, fired
+a ball through it. They then ran upstairs with a dark lantern, tied
+the servants, burst the lower panel of Mrs. Harrington's room
+door--while she secreted 50_l._ between her bed and the
+mattresses--and three of them rushed to her bed-side, armed with a
+cutlass, crowbar, and a pistol, while a fourth kept watch outside.
+They demanded her money, and as she denied that she had any, they
+wrenched her drawers open with the crowbar, refusing to use the keys
+she offered to them. In these they found about 10_l._ belonging to her
+daughter, a little child, whom they threatened to murder unless she
+ceased crying; while they packed up all the plate, linen, and clothes,
+which they carried off. They then went into the cellar, set all the
+ale barrels running, broke the necks of the wine bottles, spilt the
+other liquors, and slashed a round of beef with their cutlasses. From
+this wanton destruction they returned to the kitchen, where they ate,
+drank, and sung; and eventually frightened Mrs. Harrington into
+delivering up the 50_l._ she had secreted, and it was with difficulty
+she escaped with her life. Rewards were offered by Government and the
+parish of Islington for the apprehension of the robbers; and in May
+following one of them, named Clarkson, was discovered, and hopes of
+mercy tendered to him if he would discover his accomplices. This man
+was a watchmaker of Clerkenwell; the other three were tradesmen. They
+were tried and executed, and Clarkson pardoned. He was, however,
+afterwards executed for another robbery. In a sense, this robbery was
+fortunate to Mrs. Harrington. A subscription was raised, which more
+than covered the loss, and the curiosity of the Londoners induced them
+to throng to the scene of the robbery. So great was the increase of
+business that it became necessary to enlarge the premises. Soon
+afterwards the house was celebrated for fives-playing. This game was
+our old _hand tennis_, and is a very ancient game. This last addition
+was almost accidental. "I made the first fives-ball," says Mrs. Tomes,
+"that was ever thrown up against Copenhagen House. One Hickman, a
+butcher at Highgate, a countryman of mine, called, and, seeing me
+counting, we talked about our country sports, and, amongst the rest,
+_fives_. I told him we'd have a game some day. I laid down the stone
+myself, and against he came again made a ball. I struck the ball the
+first blow, he gave it the second--and so we played--and as there was
+company, they liked the sport, and it got talked of." This was the
+beginning of fives-play which became so famous at Copenhagen House.
+
+
+TOPHAM, THE STRONG MAN, AND HIS TAVERNS.
+
+In Upper-street, Islington, was formerly a house with the sign of the
+Duke's Head, at the south-east corner of Gadd's Row, (now St. Alban's
+Place), which was remarkable, towards the middle of the last century,
+on account of its landlord, Thomas Topham, "the strong man of
+Islington." He was brought up to the trade of a carpenter, but
+abandoned it soon after his apprenticeship had expired; and about the
+age of twenty-four became the host of the Red Lion, near the old
+Hospital of St. Luke, in which house he failed. When he had attained
+his full growth, his stature was about five feet ten inches, and he
+soon began to give proof of his superior strength and muscular power.
+The first public exhibition of his extraordinary strength was that of
+pulling against a horse, lying upon his back, and placing his feet
+against the dwarf wall that divided Upper and Lower Moorfields.
+
+By the strength of his fingers, he rolled up a very strong and large
+pewter dish, which was placed among the curiosities of the British
+Museum, marked near the edge, "April, 3, 1737, Thomas Topham, of
+London, carpenter, rolled up this dish (made of the hardest pewter) by
+the strength of his hands, in the presence of Dr. John Desaguliers,"
+etc. He broke seven or eight pieces of a tobacco-pipe, by the force of
+his middle finger, having laid them on his first and third fingers.
+Having thrust the bowl of a strong tobacco-pipe under his garter, his
+legs being bent, he broke it to pieces by the tendons of his hams,
+without altering the position of his legs. Another bowl of this kind
+he broke between his first and second finger, by pressing them
+together sideways. He took an iron kitchen poker, about a yard long,
+and three inches round, and bent it nearly to a right angle, by
+striking upon his bare left arm between the elbow and the wrist.
+Holding the ends of a poker of like size in his hands, and the middle
+of it against the back of his neck, he brought both extremities of it
+together before him; and, what was yet more difficult, pulled it
+almost straight again. He broke a rope of two inches in circumference;
+though, from his awkward manner, he was obliged to exert four times
+more strength than was necessary. He lifted a rolling stone of eight
+hundred pounds' weight with his hands only, standing in a frame above
+it, and taking hold of a chain fastened thereto.
+
+But his grand feat was performed in Coldbath Fields, May 28, 1741, in
+commemoration of the taking of Porto Bello, by Admiral Vernon. At this
+time Topham was landlord of the Apple-tree, nearly facing the entrance
+to the House of Correction; here he exhibited the exploit of lifting
+three hogsheads of water, weighing one thousand eight hundred and
+thirty-one pounds: he also pulled against one horse, and would have
+succeeded against two, or even four, had he taken a proper position;
+but in pulling against two, he was jerked from his seat, and had one
+of his knees much hurt. Admiral Vernon was present at the above
+exhibition, in the presence of thousands of spectators; and there is a
+large print of the strange scene.
+
+Topham subsequently removed to Hog-lane, Shoreditch. His wife proved
+unfaithful to him, which so distressed him that he stabbed her, and so
+mutilated himself that he died, in the flower of his age.
+
+Many years since, there were several signs in the metropolis,
+illustrative of Topham's strength: the last was one in East
+Smithfield, where he was represented as "the Strong Man pulling
+against two Horses."
+
+
+THE CASTLE TAVERN, HOLBORN.
+
+This noted tavern, described by Strype, a century and a half ago, as a
+house of considerable trade, has been, in our time, the head-quarters
+of the Prize Ring, kept by two of its heroes, Tom Belcher and Tom
+Spring. Here was instituted the Daffy Club; and the long room was
+adorned with portraits of pugilistic heroes, including Jem Belcher,
+Burke, Jackson, Tom Belcher, old Joe Ward, Dutch Sam, Gregson,
+Humphreys, Mendoza, Cribb, Molyneux, Gulley, Randall, Turner, Martin,
+Harmer, Spring, Neat, Hickman, Painter, Scroggins, Tom Owen, etc.; and
+among other sporting prints, the famous dog, Trusty, the present of
+Lord Camelford to Jem Belcher, and the victor in fifty battles. In
+_Cribb's Memorial to Congress_ is this picture of the great room:--
+
+     "Lent Friday night a bang-up set
+     Of milling blades at Belcher's met,
+     All high-bred heroes of the Ring,
+       Whose very gammon would delight one;
+     Who, nurs'd beneath the Fancy's wing,
+       Show all her feathers but the white one.
+     Brave Tom, the Champion, with an air
+     Almost Corinthian, took the chair,
+     And kept the coves in quiet tune,
+       By showing such a fist of mutton
+     As on a point of order soon
+       Would take the shine from Speaker Sutton.
+     And all the lads look'd gay and bright,
+       And gin and genius flashed about;
+     And whosoe'er grew unpolite,
+       The well-bred Champion serv'd him out."
+
+In 1828, Belcher retired from the tavern and was succeeded by Tom
+Spring (Thomas Winter), the immediate successor of Cribb, as Champion
+of England. Spring prospered at the Castle many years. He died August
+17, 1851, in his fifty-sixth year; he was highly respected, and had
+received several testimonials of public and private esteem; among
+which were these pieces of plate:--1. The Manchester Cup, presented in
+1821. 2. The Hereford Cup, 1823. 3. A noble tankard and a purse, value
+upwards of five hundred pounds. 4. A silver goblet, from Spring's
+early patron, Mr. Sant.
+
+Spring's figure was an extremely fine one, and his face and forehead
+most remarkable. His brow had something of the Greek Jupiter in it,
+expressing command, energy, determination, and cool courage. Its
+severity was relieved by the lower part of his countenance, the
+features of which denoted mildness and playfulness. His actual height
+was five feet eleven inches and a half; but he could stretch his neck
+so as to make his admeasurement more than six feet.
+
+
+MARYLEBONE AND PADDINGTON TAVERNS.
+
+Smith, in his very amusing _Book for a Rainy Day_, tells us that in
+1772, beyond Portland Chapel, (now St. Paul's,) the highway was
+irregular, with here and there a bank of separation; and having
+crossed the New Road, there was a turnstile, at the entrance of a
+meadow leading to a little old public-house--the Queen's Head and
+Artichoke--an odd association: the sign was much weather-beaten,
+though perhaps once a tolerably good portrait of Queen Elizabeth: the
+house was reported to have been kept by one of Her Majesty's
+gardeners.
+
+A little beyond was another turnstile opening also into the fields,
+over which was a walk to the Jew's Harp Tavern and Tea Gardens. It
+consisted of a large upper room, ascended by an outside staircase for
+the accommodation of the company on ball-nights. There were a
+semicircular enclosure of boxes for tea and ale drinkers; and tables
+and seats for the smokers, guarded by deal-board soldiers between
+every box, painted in proper colours. There were trap-ball and tennis
+grounds, and skittle-grounds. South of the tea-gardens were
+summer-houses and gardens, where the tenant might be seen on Sunday
+evening, in a bright scarlet waistcoat, ruffled shirt, and silver
+shoe-buckles, comfortably taking his tea with his family, honouring a
+Seven Dials friend with a nod on his peregrination to the famed Wells
+of Kilburn. Such was the suburban rural enjoyment of a century since
+on the borders of Marylebone Park.
+
+There is a capital story told of Mr. Speaker Onslow, who, when he
+could escape from the heated atmosphere of the House of Commons, in
+his long service of thirty-three years, used to retire to the Jew's
+Harp. He dressed himself in plain attire, and preferred taking his
+seat in the chimney-corner of the kitchen, where he took part in the
+passing joke, and ordinary concerns of the landlord, his family and
+customers! He continued this practice for a year or two, and thus
+ingratiated himself with his host and his family, who, not knowing his
+name, called him "the gentleman," but from his familiar manners,
+treated him as one of themselves. It happened, however, one day, that
+the landlord of the Jew's Harp was walking along Parliament-street,
+when he met the Speaker, in his state-coach, going up with an address
+to the throne; and looking narrowly at the chief personage, he was
+astonished and confounded at recognising the features of the
+gentleman, his constant customer. He hurried home and communicated the
+extraordinary intelligence to his wife and family, all of whom were
+disconcerted at the liberties which, at different times, they had
+taken with so important a person. In the evening, Mr. Onslow came as
+usual to the Jew's Harp, with his holiday face and manners, and
+prepared to take his seat, but found everything in a state of peculiar
+preparation, and the manners of the landlord and his wife changed from
+indifference and familiarity to form and obsequiousness: the children
+were not allowed to climb upon him, and pull his wig as heretofore,
+and the servants were kept at a distance. He, however, took no notice
+of the change, but, finding that his name and rank had by some means
+been discovered, he paid his reckoning, civilly took his departure,
+and never visited the house afterwards.
+
+The celebrated Speaker is buried in the family vault of the Onslows,
+at Merrow; and in Trinity Church, Guildford, is a memorial of
+him--"the figure of the deceased in a _Roman habit_," and he is
+resting upon volumes of the Votes and Journals of the House of
+Commons. The monument is overloaded with inscriptions and armorial
+displays: we suspect that "the gentleman" of the Jews' Harp
+chimney-corner would rather that such indiscriminate ostentation had
+been spared, especially "the Roman habit." If we remember rightly,
+Speaker Onslow presented to the people of Merrow, for their church, a
+cedar-wood pulpit, which the Churchwardens ordered to be _painted
+white_!
+
+To return to the taverns. Wilson, our great landscape-painter, was
+fond of playing at skittles, and frequented the Green Man
+public-house, in the New-road, at the end of Norton-street, originally
+known under the appellation of the "Farthing Pye-house;" where bits of
+mutton were put into a crust shaped like a pie, and actually sold for
+a farthing. This house was kept by a facetious man named Price, of
+whom there is a mezzotinto portrait: he was an excellent salt-box
+player, and frequently accompanied the famous Abel, when playing on
+the violoncello. Wilkes was a frequenter of this house to procure
+votes for Middlesex, as it was visited by many opulent freeholders.
+
+The Mother Redcap, at Kentish Town, was a house of no small terror to
+travellers in former times. It has been stated that Mother Redcap was
+the "Mother Damnable" of Kentish Town; and that it was at her house
+that the notorious Moll Cutpurse, the highway-woman of the time of
+Oliver Cromwell, dismounted, and frequently lodged.
+
+Kentish Town has had some of its old taverns rebuilt. Here was the
+Castle Tavern, which had a Perpendicular stone chimney-piece; the
+house was taken down in 1849: close to its southern wall was a
+sycamore planted by Lord Nelson, when a boy, at the entrance to his
+uncle's cottage; the tree has been spared. Opposite were the old
+Assembly-rooms, taken down in 1852: here was a table with an
+inscription by an invalid, who recovered his health by walking to this
+spot every morning to take his breakfast in front of the house.
+
+Bowling-greens were also among the celebrities of Marylebone: where,
+says the grave John Locke (_Diary_, 1679), a curious stranger "may see
+several persons of quality bowling, two or three times a week, all the
+summer." The bowling-green of the Rose of Normandy Tavern and
+Gaming-house in High-street is supposed to be that referred to in Lady
+Mary Wortley Montagu's memorable line; and it is one of the scenes of
+Captain Macheath's debaucheries, in Gay's _Beggar's Opera_.
+
+The Rose was built some 230 years ago, and was the oldest house in
+Marylebone parish: it was originally a detached building, used as a
+house of entertainment in connection with the bowling-green at the
+back; and in 1659 the place was described as a square brick wall, set
+with fruit-trees, gravel walks, and the bowling-green; "all, except
+the first, double set with quickset hedges, full-grown, and kept in
+excellent order, and indented like town walls." In a map of the Duke
+of Portland's estate, of 1708, there are shown two bowling-greens, one
+near the top of High-street, and abutting on the grounds of the Old
+Manor House; the other at the back of this house: in connection with
+the latter was the Rose Tavern, once much frequented by persons of the
+first rank, but latterly in much disrepute, and supposed to be
+referred to by Pennant, who, when speaking of the Duke of Buckingham's
+minute description of the house afterwards the Queen's Palace, says:
+"He has omitted his constant visits to the noted Gaming-house at
+Marybone; the place of assemblage of all the infamous sharpers of the
+time;" to whom his Grace always gave a dinner at the conclusion of the
+season; and his parting toast was, "May as many of us as remain
+unhanged next spring meet here again."
+
+These Bowling-greens were afterwards incorporated with the well-known
+Marylebone Gardens, upon the site of which are now built
+Beaumont-street, part of Devonshire-street, and Devonshire-place. The
+principal entrance was in High-street. Pepys was here in 1688: "Then
+we abroad to Marrowbone, and there walked in the Gardens: the first
+time I was ever there, and a pretty place it is." In the _London
+Gazette_, 1691, we read of "Long's Bowling-green, at the Rose, at
+Marylebone, half a mile distant from London." The Gardens were at
+first opened gratis to all classes; after the addition of the
+bowling-greens, the company became more select, by one shilling
+entrance-money being charged, an equivalent being allowed in viands.
+
+An engraving of 1761 shows the Gardens in their fullest splendour: the
+centre walk had rows of trees, with irons for the lamps in the stems;
+on either side, latticed alcoves; and on the right, the bow-fronted
+orchestra with balustrades, supported by columns; with a projecting
+roof, to keep the musicians and singers free from rain; on the left
+is a room for balls and suppers. In 1763, the Gardens were taken by
+Lowe, the singer; he kept them until 1769, when he conveyed the
+property by assignment, to his creditors; the deed we remember to have
+seen in Mr. Sampson Hodgkinson's Collection at Acton Green: from it we
+learn that the premises of Rysbrack, the sculptor, were formerly part
+of the Gardens. Nan Cattley and Signor Storace were among the singers.
+James Hook, father of Theodore Hook, composed many songs for the
+Gardens; and Dr. Arne, catches and glees; and under his direction was
+played Handel's music, followed by fireworks; and in 1772, a
+model-picture of Mount Etna, in eruption. Burlettas from Shakspeare
+were recited here in 1774. In 1775, Baddeley, the comedian, gave here
+his Modern Magic Lantern, including Punch's Election; next, George
+Saville Carey his Lecture on Mimicry; and in 1776, fantoccini, sleight
+of hand, and representations of the Boulevards at Paris and Pyramids
+of Egypt.
+
+Chatterton wrote for the Gardens _The Revenge_, a burletta, the
+manuscript of which, together with Chatterton's receipt, given to
+Henslow, the proprietor of the Gardens, for the amount paid for the
+drama, was found by Mr. Upcott, at a cheesemonger's shop, in the City;
+it was published, but its authenticity was at the time doubted by many
+eminent critics. (_Crypt_, November, 1827.)
+
+Paddington was long noted for its old Taverns. The White Lion,
+Edgware-road, dates 1524, the year when hops were first imported. At
+the Red Lion, near the Harrow-road, tradition says, Shakspeare acted;
+and another Red Lion, formerly near the Harrow-road bridge over the
+Bourn, is described in an inquisition of Edward VI. In this road is
+also an ancient Pack-horse; and the Wheatsheaf, Edgware-road, was a
+favourite resort of Ben Jonson.[47]
+
+Kilburn Wells, a noted tea-drinking tavern and garden, sprang up from
+the fame of the spring of mineral water there.
+
+Bayswater had, within memory, its tea-garden taverns, the most
+extensive of which were the "physic gardens" of Sir John Hill, who
+here cultivated his medicinal plants, and prepared from them his
+tinctures, essences, etc. The ground is now the site of noble
+mansions. The Bayswater springs, reservoirs, and conduits, in olden
+times, brought here thousands of pleasure-seekers; as did Shepherd's
+Bush, with its rural name. Acton, with its wells of mineral water,
+about the middle of the last century, were in high repute; the
+assembly-room was then a place of great fashionable resort, but on its
+decline was converted into tenements. The two noted taverns, the Hats,
+at Ealing, were much resorted to in the last century, and early in the
+present.
+
+FOOTNOTE:
+
+[47] Robins's _Paddington, Past and Present_.
+
+
+KENSINGTON AND BROMPTON TAVERNS.
+
+Kensington, on the Great Western road, formerly had its large inns.
+The coffee-house west of the Palace Road was much resorted to as a
+tea-drinking place, handy to the gardens.
+
+Kensington, to this day, retains its memorial of the residence of
+Addison at Holland House, from the period of his marriage. The
+thoroughfare from the Kensington Road to Notting Hill is named Addison
+Road. At Holland House are shown the table upon which the Essayist
+wrote; his reputed portrait; and the chamber in which he died.
+
+It has been commonly stated and believed that Addison's marriage with
+the Countess of Warwick was a most unhappy match; and that, to drown
+his sorrow, and escape from his termagant wife, he would often slip
+away from Holland House to the White Horse Inn, which stood at the
+corner of Lord Holland's Lane, and on the site of the present Holland
+Arms Inn. Here Addison would enjoy his favourite dish of a fillet of
+veal, his bottle, and perhaps a friend. He is also stated to have had
+another way of showing his spite to the Countess, by withdrawing the
+company from Button's Coffee-house, set up by her Ladyship's old
+servant. Moreover, Addison is accused of having taught Dryden to
+drink, so as to hasten his end: how doubly "glorious" old John must
+have been in his cups. Pope also states that Addison kept such late
+hours that he was compelled to quit his company. But both these
+anecdotes are from Spence, and are doubted; and they have done much
+injury to Addison's character. Miss Aikin, in her _Life of Addison_,
+endeavours to invalidate these imputations, by reference to the
+sobriety of Addison's early life. He had a remarkably sound
+constitution, and could, probably, sit out his companions, and stop
+short of actual intoxication; indeed, it was said that he was only
+warmed into the utmost brilliancy of table conversation, by the time
+that Steele had rendered himself nearly unfit for it. Miss Aikin
+refers to the tone and temper, the correctness of taste and judgment
+of Addison's writings, in proof of his sobriety; and doubts whether a
+man, himself stained with the vice of intoxication, would have dared
+to stigmatize it as in his 569th _Spectator_. The idea that domestic
+unhappiness led him to contract this dreadful habit, is then
+repudiated; and the opposite conclusion supported by the bequest of
+his whole property to his lady. "Is it conceivable," asks Miss Aikin,
+"that any man would thus 'give and hazard all he had,' even to his
+precious only child, in compliment to a woman who should have rendered
+his last years miserable by her pride and petulance, and have driven
+him out from his home, to pass his comfortless evenings in the gross
+indulgence of a tavern." Our amiable biographer, therefore, equally
+discredits the stories of Addison's unhappy marriage, and of his
+intemperate habits.
+
+The White Horse was taken down many years since. The tradition of its
+being the tavern frequented by Addison, was common in Kensington when
+Faulkner printed his _History_, in 1820.
+
+There was a celebrated visitor at Holland House who, many years later,
+partook of "the gross indulgence." Sheridan was often at Holland House
+in his latter days; and Lady Holland told Moore that he used to take a
+bottle of wine and a book up to bed with him always; the _former_
+alone intended for use. In the morning, he breakfasted in bed, and had
+a little brandy or rum in his tea or coffee; made his appearance
+between one or two, and pretending important business, used to set out
+for town, but regularly stopped at the Adam and Eve public-house for a
+dram, and there ran up a long bill, which Lord Holland had to pay.
+This was the old roadside inn, long since taken down.
+
+When the building for the Great Exhibition of 1851 was in course of
+construction, Alexis Soyer, the celebrated cook from the Reform Club,
+hired for a term, Gore House, and converted Lady Blessington's
+well-appointed mansion and grounds into a sort of large _restaurant_,
+which our poetical cook named "the Symposium." The house was ill
+planned for the purpose, and underwent much grotesque decoration and
+_bizarre_ embellishment, to meet Soyer's somewhat unorthodox taste;
+for his chief aim was to show the public "something they had never
+seen before." The designation of the place--Symposium--led to a
+dangerous joke: "Ah! I understand," said a wag, "impose-on-'em." Soyer
+was horrified, and implored the joker not to name his witticism upon
+'Change in the City, but he disregarded the _restaurateur's_ request,
+and the pun was often repeated between Cornhill and Kensington.
+
+In the reconstruction and renovation of the place, Soyer was assisted
+by his friend Mr. George Augustus Sala, who, some years after, when he
+edited _Temple Bar_, described in his very clever manner, what he saw
+and thought, whilst for "many moons he slept, and ate, and drank, and
+walked, and talked, in Gore House, surrounded by the very strangest of
+company":--
+
+     "From February to mid-March a curious medley of carpenters,
+     scene-painters, plumbers, glaziers, gardeners,
+     town-travellers for ironmongers, wine-merchants, and
+     drapers, held high carnival in the place. By-and-by came
+     dukes and duchesses, warriors and statesmen, ambassadors,
+     actors, artists, authors, quack-doctors, ballet-dancers,
+     journalists, Indian princes, Irish members, nearly all that
+     was odd and all that was distinguished, native or foreign,
+     in London town. They wandered up and down the staircases,
+     and in and out of the saloons, quizzing, and talking, and
+     laughing, and flirting sometimes in sly corners. They
+     signed their names in a big book, blazing with gold and
+     morocco, which lay among shavings on a carpenter's bench in
+     the library. Where is that wondrous collection of
+     autographs, that _Libro d'Oro_, now? Mr. Keeley's signature
+     followed suit to that of Lord Carlisle. Fanny Cerito
+     inscribed her pretty name, with that of 'St. Leon' added,
+     next to the signature of the magnificent Duchess of
+     Sutherland. I was at work with the whitewashers on the
+     stairs, and saw Semiramis sweep past. Baron Brunnow met
+     Prof. Holloway on the neutral ground of a page of
+     autographs. Jules Janin's name came close to the laborious
+     _paraphe_ of an eminent pugilist. Members of the American
+     Congress found themselves in juxtaposition with Frederick
+     Douglas and the dark gentleman who came as ambassador from
+     Hayti. I remember one Sunday, during that strange time,
+     seeing Mr. Disraeli, Madame Doche, the Author of _Vanity
+     Fair_, a privy councillor, a Sardinian attaché, the Marquis
+     of Normanby, the late Mr. Flexmore the clown, the Editor of
+     _Punch_, and the Wizard of the North, all pressing to enter
+     the whilom boudoir of the Blessington.
+
+     "Meanwhile, I and the whitewashers were hard at work. We
+     summoned upholsterers, carvers and gilders to our aid.
+     Troops of men in white caps and jackets began to flit about
+     the lower regions. The gardeners were smothering themselves
+     with roses in the adjacent parterres. Marvellous erections
+     began to rear their heads in the grounds of Gore House. The
+     wilderness had become, not exactly a paradise, but a kind of
+     Garden of Epicurus, in which some of the features of that
+     classical bower of bliss were blended with those of the
+     kingdom of Cockaigne, where pigs are said to run about ready
+     roasted with silver knives and forks stuck in them, and
+     crying, 'Come, eat us; our crackling is delicious, and the
+     sage-and-onions with which we are stuffed distils an odour
+     as sweet as that of freshly gathered violets.' Vans laden
+     with wines, with groceries, with plates and dishes, with
+     glasses and candelabra, and with bales of calico, and still
+     more calico, were perpetually arriving at Gore House. The
+     carriages of the nobility and gentry were blocked up among
+     railway goods-vans and Parcels Delivery carts. The
+     authorities of the place were obliged to send for a
+     detective policeman to mount permanent guard at the Gore,
+     for the swell-mob had found us out, and flying squadrons of
+     felonry hung on the skirts of our distinguished visitors,
+     and harassed their fobs fearfully. Then we sent forth
+     advertisements to the daily papers, and legions of mothers,
+     grandmothers, and aunts brought myriads of newly-washed
+     boys; some chubby and curly-haired, some lanky and
+     straight-locked, from whom we selected the comelier youths,
+     and put them into picturesque garbs, confected for us by Mr.
+     Nicoll. Then we held a competitive examination of pretty
+     girls; and from those who obtained the largest number of
+     marks (of respect and admiration) we chose a bevy of Hebes,
+     whose rosy lips, black eyes and blue eyes, fair hair and
+     dark hair, very nearly drove me crazy in the spring days of
+     1851.
+
+     "And by the end of April we had completely metamorphosed
+     Gore House. I am sure that poor Lady Blessington would not
+     have known her coquettish villa again had she visited it;
+     and I am afraid she would not have been much gratified to
+     see that which the upholsterers, the whitewashers, the
+     hangers of calico, and your humble servant, had wrought. As
+     for the venerable Mr. Wilberforce, who, I believe, occupied
+     Gore House some years before Lady Blessington's tenancy, he
+     would have held up his hands in pious horror to see the
+     changes we had made. A madcap masquerade of bizarre taste
+     and queer fancies had turned Gore House completely inside
+     out. In honest truth, we had played the very dickens with
+     it. The gardens were certainly magnificent; and there was a
+     sloping terrace of flowers in the form of a gigantic shell,
+     and literally crammed with the choicest roses, which has
+     seldom, I believe, been rivalled in ornamental gardening.
+     But the house itself! The library had been kindly dealt by,
+     save that from the ceiling were suspended a crowd of
+     quicksilvered glass globes, which bobbed about like the
+     pendent ostrich-eggs in an Eastern mosque. There was a room
+     called the 'Floriana,' with walls and ceiling fluted with
+     blue and white calico, and stuck all over with spangles.
+     There was the 'Doriana,' also in calico, pink and white, and
+     approached by a portal called the 'door of the dungeon of
+     mystery,' which was studded with huge nails, and garnished
+     with fetters in the well-known Newgate fashion. Looking
+     towards the garden were the Alhambra Terrace and the
+     Venetian Bridge. The back drawing-room was the Night of
+     Stars, or the _Rêverie de l'Etoile polaire_; the night
+     being represented by a cerulean ceiling painted over with
+     fleecy clouds, and the firmament by hangings of blue gauze
+     spangled with stars cut out of silver-foil paper! Then there
+     was the vestibule of Jupiter Tonans, the walls covered with
+     a salmagundi of the architecture of all nations, from the
+     Acropolis to the Pyramids of Egypt, from Temple Bar to the
+     Tower of Babel. The dining-room became the Hall of Jewels,
+     or the _Salon des Larmes de Danaë_, and the 'Shower of
+     Gems,' with a grand arabesque perforated ceiling, gaudy in
+     gilding and distemper colours. Upstairs there was a room
+     fitted up as a Chinese pagoda, another as an Italian cottage
+     overlooking a vineyard and the Lake of Como; another as a
+     cavern of ice in the Arctic regions, with sham columns
+     imitating icebergs, and a stuffed white fox--bought cheap at
+     a sale--in the chimney. The grand staircase belonged to me,
+     and I painted its walls with a grotesque nightmare of
+     portraits of people I had never seen, and hundreds more upon
+     whom I had never set eyes save in the print-shops, till I
+     saw the originals grinning, or scowling, or planted in blank
+     amazement before the pictorial libels on the walls.
+
+     "In the gardens Sir Charles Fox built for us a huge barrack
+     of wood, glass, and iron, which we called the 'Baronial
+     Hall,' and which we filled with pictures and lithographs,
+     and flags and calico, in our own peculiar fashion. We hired
+     a large grazing-meadow at the back of the gardens, from a
+     worthy Kensington cowkeeper, and having fitted up another
+     barrack at one end of it, called it the 'Pré D'Orsay.' We
+     memorialized the Middlesex magistrates, and, after a great
+     deal of trouble, got a licence enabling us to sell wines and
+     spirits, and to have music and dancing if we so chose. We
+     sprinkled tents and alcoves all over our gardens, and built
+     a gipsies' cavern, and a stalactite pagoda with double
+     windows, in which gold and silver fish floated. And finally,
+     having engaged an army of pages, cooks, scullions, waiters,
+     barmaids, and clerks of the kitchen, we opened this
+     monstrous place on the first of May, 1851, and bade all the
+     world come and dine at SOYER'S SYMPOSIUM."
+
+However, the ungrateful public disregarded the invitation, and poor
+Alexis Soyer is believed to have lost 4000_l._ by this enterprise. He
+died a few years after, at the early age of fifty. His friend Mr.
+Sala has said of him with true pathos:--"He was a vain man; but he was
+good and kind and charitable. There are paupers and beggars _even
+among French cooks_, and Alexis always had his pensioners and his
+alms-duns, to whom his hand was ever open. He was but a cook, but he
+was my dear and good friend."
+
+We remember to have heard Soyer say of the writer of these truthful
+words, in reply to an inquiry as to the artist of the figures upon the
+staircase-walls, "He is a very clever fellow, of whom you will hear
+much,"--a prediction which has been fully verified.
+
+Brompton, with its two centuries of Nursery fame, lasted to our time;
+southward, among "the Groves," were the Florida, Hoop and Toy, and
+other tea-garden taverns; there remains the Swan, with its
+bowling-green.
+
+
+KNIGHTSBRIDGE TAVERNS.
+
+Knightsbridge was formerly a noted "Spring-Garden," with several
+taverns, of gay and questionable character. Some of the older houses
+have historical interest. The Rose and Crown, formerly the Oliver
+Cromwell, has been licensed above three hundred years. It is said to
+be the house which sheltered Wyat, while his unfortunate Kentish
+followers rested on the adjacent green. A tradition of the locality
+also is that Cromwell's body-guard was once quartered here, the
+probability of which is carefully examined in Davis's _Memorials of
+Knightsbridge_. The house has been much modernized of late years;
+"but," says Mr. Davis, "enough still remains in its peculiar chimneys,
+oval-shaped windows, the low rooms, large yard, and extensive
+stabling, with the galleries above, and office-like places beneath, to
+testify to its antiquity and former importance." The Rising Sun, hard
+by, is a seventeenth century red-brick house, which formerly had much
+carved work in the rooms, and a good staircase remains.
+
+The Fox and Bull is the third house that has existed under the same
+sign. The first was Elizabethan with carved and panelled rooms,
+ornamented ceiling; and it was not until 1799, that the immense
+fireplaces and dog-irons were removed for stove-grates. This house was
+pulled down about 1836, and the second immediately built upon its
+site; this stood till the Albert-gate improvements made the removal of
+the tavern business to its present situation.[48]
+
+The original Fox and Bull is traditionally said to have been used by
+Queen Elizabeth on her visits to Lord Burghley, at Brompton. Its
+curious sign is said to be the only one of the kind existing. Here for
+a long time was maintained that Queen Anne style of society, where
+persons of parts and reputation were to be met with in public rooms.
+Captain Corbet was for a long time its head; Mr. Shaw, of the War
+Office, supplied the _London Gazette_; and Mr. Harris, of Covent
+Garden, his play-bills. Sir Joshua Reynolds is said to have been
+occasionally a visitor; as also Sir W. Wynn, the patron of Ryland.
+George Morland, too, was frequently here. The sign was once painted by
+Sir Joshua, and hung till 1807, when it was blown down and destroyed
+in a storm. The house is referred to in the _Tatler_, No. 259.
+
+At about where William-street joins Lowndes-square was "an excellent
+Spring Garden." Among the entries of the Virtuosi, or St. Luke's Club,
+established by Vandyke, is the following: "Paid and spent at Spring
+Gardens, by Knightsbridge, forfeiture, 3_l._ 15_s._" Pepys being at
+Kensington, "on a frolic," June 16, 1664, "lay in his drawers, and
+stockings, and waistcoat, till five of the clock, and so up, walked to
+Knightsbridge, and there eat a mess of cream, and so to St. James's,"
+etc. And, April 24, 1665, the King being in the Park, and sly Pepys
+being doubtful of being seen in any pleasure, stepped out of the Park
+to Knightsbridge, and there ate and drank in the coach.
+
+Pepys also speaks of "the World's End," at Knightsbridge, which Mr.
+Davis thinks could only have been the sign adopted for the Garden; and
+Pepys, being too soon to go into Hyde Park, went on to Knightsbridge,
+and there ate and drank at the World's End; and elsewhere the road
+going "to the World's End, a drinking-house by the Park, and there
+merry, and so home late." Congreve, in his _Love for Love_, alludes,
+in a woman's quarrel, to the place, between Mrs. Frail and Mrs.
+Foresight, in which the former says: "I don't doubt but you have
+thought yourself happy in a hackney-coach before now. If I had gone to
+Knightsbridge, or to Chelsea, or to Spring Garden, or Barn Elms, with
+a man alone, something might have been said." The house belonging to
+this Garden stood till about 1826.
+
+Knightsbridge Grove, approached through a stately avenue of trees from
+the road, was a sporting-house. Here the noted Mrs. Cornelys
+endeavoured to retrieve her fortunes, after her failure at Carlisle
+House. In 1785, she gave up her precarious trade. "Ten years after,"
+says Davis's _Memorials of Knightsbridge_, "to the great surprise of
+the public, she re-appeared at Knightsbridge as Mrs. Smith, a retailer
+of asses' milk. A suite of breakfast-rooms was opened; but her former
+influence could not be recovered. The speculation utterly failed; and
+at length she was confined to the Fleet Prison. There she ended her
+shallow career, dying August 19, 1797."
+
+A once notorious house, the Swan, still exists on the
+Knightsbridge-road, a little beyond the Green. It is celebrated by Tom
+Brown. In Otway's _Soldier's Fortune_, 1681, Sir Davy Dunce says:--
+
+     "I have surely lost, and ne'er shall find her more. She
+     promised me strictly to stay at home till I came back again;
+     for ought I know, she may be up three pair of stairs in the
+     Temple now, or, it may be, taking the air as far as
+     Knightsbridge, with some smooth-faced rogue or another;
+     'tis a damned house that Swan,--that Swan at Knightsbridge
+     is a confounded house."
+
+To the Feathers, which stood to the south of Grosvenor-row, an odd
+anecdote is attached. A Lodge of Odd Fellows, or some similar society,
+was in the habit of holding its meetings in a room at the Feathers;
+and on one occasion, when a new member was being initiated in the
+mysteries thereof, in rushed two persons, whose abrupt and
+unauthorized entrance threw the whole assemblage into an uproar.
+Summary punishment was proposed by an expeditious kick into the
+street; but, just as it was about to be bestowed, the secretary
+recognized one of the intruders as George, Prince of Wales, afterwards
+George IV. Circumstances instantly changed: it indeed was he, out on a
+nocturnal excursion; and accordingly it was proposed and carried that
+the Prince and his companion should be admitted members. The Prince
+was chairman the remainder of the evening; and the chair in which he
+sat, ornamented, in consequence, with the plume, is still preserved in
+the parlour of the modern inn in Grosvenor-street West, and over it
+hangs a coarsely-executed portrait of the Prince in the robes of the
+order. The inn, the hospital, and various small tenements were removed
+in 1851, when the present stately erections were immediately
+commenced. On the ground being cleared away, various coins, old
+horse-shoes, a few implements of warfare, and some human remains were
+discovered.[49]
+
+Jenny's Whim, another celebrated place of entertainment, has only just
+entirely disappeared; it was on the site of St. George's-row. Mr.
+Davis thinks it to have been named from the fantastic way in which
+Jenny, the first landlady, laid out the garden. Angelo says, it was
+established by a firework-maker, in the reign of George I. There was a
+large breakfast-room, and the grounds comprised a bowling-green,
+alcoves, arbours, and flower-beds; a fish-pond, a cock-pit, and a pond
+for duck-hunting. In the _Connoisseur_, May 15, 1775, we read: "The
+lower sort of people had their Ranelaghs and their Vauxhalls as well
+as the quality. Perrot's inimitable grotto may be seen, for only
+calling for a pint of beer; and the royal diversion of duck-hunting
+may be had into the bargain, together with a decanter of Dorchester,
+for your sixpence, at Jenny's Whim." The large garden here had some
+amusing deceptions; as by treading on a spring--taking you by
+surprise--up started different figures, some ugly enough to frighten
+you--a harlequin, a Mother Shipton, or some terrific animal. In a
+large piece of water facing the tea-alcoves, large fish or mermaids
+were showing themselves above the surface. Horace Walpole, in his
+Letters, occasionally alludes to Jenny's Whim; in one to Montagu he
+spitefully says--"Here (at Vauxhall) we picked up Lord Granby, arrived
+very drunk from Jenny's Whim."
+
+Towards the close of the last century, Jenny's Whim began to decline;
+its morning visitors were not so numerous, and opposition was also
+powerful. It gradually became forgotten, and at last sank to the
+condition of a beer-house, and about 1804 the business altogether
+ceased.[50]
+
+Jenny's Whim has more than once served the novelist for an
+illustration; as in _Maids of Honour, a Tale of the Times of George
+the First_:--"There were gardens," says the writer, mentioning the
+place, "attached to it, and a bowling-green; and parties were
+frequently made, composed of ladies and gentlemen, to enjoy a day's
+amusement there in eating strawberries and cream, syllabubs, cake, and
+taking other refreshments, of which a great variety could be procured,
+with cider, perry, ale, wine, and other liquors in abundance. The
+gentlemen played at bowls--some employed themselves at skittles;
+whilst the ladies amused themselves at a swing, or walked about the
+garden, admiring the sunflowers, hollyhocks, the Duke of Marlborough
+cut out of a filbert-tree, and the roses and daisies, currants and
+gooseberries, that spread their alluring charms in every path.
+
+"This was a favourite rendezvous for lovers in courting time--a day's
+pleasure at Jenny's Whim being considered by the fair one the most
+enticing enjoyment that could be offered her; and often the hearts of
+the most obdurate have given way beneath the influence of its
+attractions. Jenny's Whim, therefore, had always, during the season,
+plenty of pleasant parties of young people of both sexes. Sometimes
+all its chambers were filled, and its gardens thronged by gay and
+sentimental visitors."[51]
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[48] Stolen Marriages were the source of the old Knightsbridge tavern
+success; and ten books of marriages and baptisms solemnized here, 1658
+to 1752, are preserved. Trinity Chapel, the old edifice, was one of
+the places where these irregular marriages were solemnized. Thus, in
+Shadwell's _Sullen Lovers_, Lovell is made to say, "Let's dally no
+longer; there is a person at Knightsbridge that yokes all stray people
+together; we'll to him, he'll dispatch us presently, and send us away
+as lovingly as any two fools that ever yet were condemned to
+marriage." Some of the entries in this marriage register are
+suspicious enough--"secrecy for life," or "great secrecy," or "secret
+for fourteen years" being appended to the names. Mr. Davis, in his
+_Memorials of Knightsbridge_, was the first to exhume from this
+document the name of the adventuress "Mrs. Mary Aylif," whom Sir
+Samuel Morland married as his fourth wife, in 1697. Readers of Pepys
+will remember how pathetically Morland wrote, eighteen days after the
+wedding, that when he had expected to marry an heiress, "I was, about
+a fortnight since, led as a fool to the stocks, and married a
+coachman's daughter not worth a shilling."
+
+[49] Davis's _Memorials of Knightsbridge_.
+
+[50] The last relic of "Jenny's Whim" was removed in November, 1865.
+
+[51] In 1755, a quarto satirical tract was published, entitled
+"Jenny's Whim; or, a Sure Guide to the Nobility, Gentry, and other
+Eminent Persons in this Metropolis."
+
+
+RANELAGH GARDENS.
+
+This famous place of entertainment was opened in 1742, on the site of
+the gardens of Ranelagh House, eastward of Chelsea Hospital. It was
+originally projected by Lacy, the patentee of Drury Lane Theatre, as
+a sort of Winter Vauxhall. There was a Rotunda, with a Doric portico,
+and arcade and gallery; a Venetian pavilion in a lake, to which the
+company were rowed in boats; and the grounds were planted with trees
+and _allées vertes_. The several buildings were designed by Capon, the
+eminent scene-painter. There were boxes for refreshments, and in each
+was a painting: in the centre was a heating apparatus, concealed by
+arches, porticoes and niches, paintings, etc.; and supporting the
+ceiling, which was decorated with celestial figures, festoons of
+flowers, and arabesques, and lighted by circles of chandeliers. The
+Rotunda was opened with a public breakfast, April 5, 1742. Walpole
+describes the high fashion of Ranelagh: "The prince, princess, duke,
+much nobility, and much mob besides, were there." "My Lord
+Chesterfield is so fond of it, that he says he has ordered all his
+letters to be directed thither." The admission was one shilling; but
+the ridottos, with supper and music, were one guinea. Concerts were
+also given here: Dr. Arne composed the music, Tenducci and Mara sang;
+and here were first publicly performed the compositions of the Catch
+Club. Fireworks and a mimic Etna were next introduced; and lastly
+masquerades, described in Fielding's _Amelia_, and satirized in the
+_Connoisseur_, No. 66, May 1, 1755; wherein the Sunday-evening's
+tea-drinkings at Ranelagh being laid aside, it is proposed to exhibit
+"the story of the Fall of Man in a Masquerade."
+
+But the promenade of the Rotunda, to the music of the orchestra and
+organ, soon declined. "There's your famous Ranelagh, that you make
+such a fuss about; why, what a dull place is that!" says Miss Burney's
+_Evelina_. In 1802, the Installation Ball of the Knights of the Bath
+was given here; and the Pic-nic Society gave here a breakfast to 2000
+persons, when Garnerin ascended in his balloon. After the Peace Fête,
+in 1803, for which allegorical scenes were painted by Capon, Ranelagh
+was deserted, and in 1804, the buildings were removed.
+
+There was subsequently opened in the neighbourhood a New Ranelagh.
+
+
+CREMORNE TAVERN AND GARDENS.
+
+This property was formerly known as Chelsea Farm, and in 1803,
+devolved to the Viscount Cremorne, after whom it was named, and who
+employed Wyatt to build the elegant and commodious mansion. In the
+early part of the present century, Cremorne was often visited by
+George III., and Queen Charlotte, and the Prince of Wales. In 1825,
+the house and grounds devolved to Mr. Granville Penn, by whom they
+were much improved. Next, the beauty of the spot, and its fitness for
+a pleasure-garden, led to its being opened to the public as "the
+Stadium." After this, the estate fell into other hands, and was
+appropriated to a very different object. At length, under the
+proprietorship of Mr. T. B. Simpson, the grounds were laid out with
+taste, and the tavern enlarged; and the place has prospered for many
+years as a sort of Vauxhall, with multitudinous amusements, in variety
+far outnumbering the old proto-gardens.
+
+
+THE MULBERRY GARDEN,
+
+Upon the site of which is built the northern portion of Buckingham
+Palace, was planted by order of James I., in 1609, and in the next two
+reigns became a public garden. Evelyn describes it in 1654 as "ye
+only place of refreshment about ye towne for persons of ye best
+quality to be exceedingly cheated at;" and Pepys refers to it as "a
+silly place," but with "a wilderness somewhat pretty." It is a
+favourite locality in the gay comedies of Charles II.'s reign.
+
+Dryden frequented the Mulberry Garden; and according to a
+contemporary, the poet ate tarts there with Mrs. Anne Reeve, his
+mistress. The company sat in arbours, and were regaled with
+cheesecakes, syllabubs, and sweetened wine; wine-and-water at dinner,
+and a dish of tea afterwards. Sometimes the ladies wore masks. "The
+country ladys, for the first month, take up their places in the
+Mulberry Garden as early as a citizen's wife at a new play."--Sir
+Charles Sedley's _Mulberry Garden_, 1668.
+
+     "A princely palace on that space does rise,
+     Where Sedley's noble muse found mulberries."--_Dr. King._
+
+Upon the above part of the garden site was built _Goring House_, let
+to the Earl of Arlington in 1666, and thence named _Arlington House_:
+in this year the Earl brought from Holland, for 60_s._, the first
+pound of tea received in England; so that, in all probability, _the
+first cup of tea made in England was drunk upon the site of Buckingham
+Palace_.
+
+
+PIMLICO TAVERNS.
+
+Pimlico is a name of gardens of public entertainment, often mentioned
+by our early dramatists, and in this respect resembles "Spring
+Garden." In a rare tract, _Newes from Hogsdon_, 1598, is: "Have at
+thee, then, my merrie boys, and hey for old Ben Pimlico's nut-browne!"
+and the place, in or near Hoxton, was afterwards named from him. Ben
+Jonson has:
+
+                 "A second Hogsden,
+     In days of Pimlico and eye-bright."--_The Alchemist._
+
+"Pimlico-path" is a gay resort of his _Bartholomew Fair_; and
+Meercraft, in _The Devil is an Ass_, says:
+
+     "I'll have thee, Captain Gilthead, and march up
+     And take in Pimlico, and kill the bush
+     At every tavern."
+
+In 1609, was printed a tract entitled _Pimlyco_, or _Prince Red Cap,
+'tis a Mad World at Hogsden_. Sir Lionel Hash, in Green's _Tu Quoque_,
+sends his daughter "as far as Pimlico for a draught of Derby ale, that
+it may bring colour into her cheeks." Massinger mentions,
+
+           "Eating pudding-pies on a Sunday,
+     At Pimlico or Islington."--_City Madam._
+
+Aubrey, in his _Surrey_, speaks of "a Pimlico Garden on Bankside."
+
+Pimlico, the district between Knightsbridge and the Thames, and St.
+James's Park and Chelsea, was noted for its public gardens: as the
+Mulberry Garden, now part of the site of Buckingham Palace; the Dwarf
+Tavern and Gardens, afterwards Spring Gardens, between Ebury-street
+and Belgrave-terrace; the Star and Garter, at the end of
+Five-Fields-row, famous for its equestrianism, fireworks, and dancing;
+and the Orange, upon the site of St. Barnabas' church. Here, too, were
+Ranelagh and New Ranelagh. But the largest garden in Pimlico was
+Jenny's Whim, already described. In later years it was frequented by
+crowds from bull-baiting in the adjoining fields. Among the existing
+old signs are, the Bag o' Nails, Arabella-row, from Ben Jonson's
+"Bacchanals;" the Compasses, of Cromwell's time (near Grosvenor-row);
+and the Gun Tavern and Tea-gardens, Queen's-row, with its harbours and
+costumed figures taken down for the Buckingham Gate improvements.
+Pimlico is still noted for its ale-breweries.
+
+
+LAMBETH,--VAUXHALL TAVERNS AND GARDENS, ETC.
+
+On the south bank of the Thames, at the time of the Restoration, were
+first laid out the New Spring Gardens, at Lambeth (Vauxhall), so
+called to distinguish them from Spring Garden, Charing Cross. Nearly
+two centuries of gay existence had Vauxhall Gardens, notwithstanding
+the proverbial fickleness of our climate, and its ill-adaptation for
+out-door amusements. The incidents of its history are better known
+than those of Marylebone or Ranelagh Gardens; so that we shall not
+here repeat the Vauxhall programmes. The gardens were finally closed
+in 1859, and the ground is now built upon: a church, of most beautiful
+design, and a school of art, being the principal edifices.
+
+"Though Vauxhall Gardens retained their plan to the last, the lamps
+had long fallen off in their golden fires; the punch got weaker, the
+admission-money less; and the company fell in a like ratio of
+respectability, and grew dingy, not to say raffish,--a sorry
+falling-off from the Vauxhall crowd of a century since, when it
+numbered princes and ambassadors; 'on its tide and torrent of fashion
+floated all the beauty of the time; and through its lighted avenues of
+trees glided cabinet ministers and their daughters, royal dukes and
+their wives, and all the red-heeled macaronies.' Even fifty years ago,
+the evening costume of the company was elegant: head-dresses of
+flowers and feathers were seen in the promenade, and the entire place
+sparkled as did no other place of public amusement. But low prices
+brought low company. The conventional wax-lights got fewer; the punch
+gave way to fiery brandy or doctored stout. The semblance of Vauxhall
+was still preserved in the orchestra printed upon the plates and mugs;
+and the old fire-work bell tinkled as gaily as ever. But matters grew
+more seedy; the place seemed literally worn out; the very trees were
+scrubby and singed; and it was high time to say, as well as see, in
+letters of lamps, 'Farewell for ever!'"[52]
+
+Several other taverns and gardens have existed at different times in
+this neighbourhood. Cumberland Gardens' site is now Vauxhall
+Bridge-road, and Cuper's Garden was laid out with walks and arbours by
+Boydell Cuper, gardener to Thomas, Earl of Arundel, who gave him some
+of the mutilated Arundelian marbles (statues), which Cuper set up in
+his ground: it was suppressed in 1753: the site is now crossed by
+Waterloo Bridge Road. Belvidere House and Gardens adjoined Cuper's
+Garden, in Queen Anne's reign.
+
+The Hercules Inn and Gardens occupied the site of the Asylum for
+Female Orphans, opened in 1758; and opposite were the Apollo Gardens
+and the Temple of Flora, Mount-row, opened 1788. A century earlier
+there existed, in King William's reign, Lambeth Wells, in Three Coney
+Walk, now Lambeth Walk; it was reputed for its mineral waters, sold at
+a penny a quart, "the same price paid by St. Thomas's Hospital." About
+1750 a Musical Society was held here, and lectures and experiments
+were given on natural philosophy by Erasmus King, who had been
+coachman to Dr. Desaguliers. In Stangate-lane, Carlisle-street, is the
+Bower Saloon, with its theatre and music-room, a pleasure-haunt of our
+own time. Next is Canterbury Hall, the first established of the great
+Music Halls of the metropolis.
+
+The Dog and Duck was a place of entertainment in St. George's Fields,
+where duck-hunting was one of its brutal amusements. The house was
+taken down upon the rebuilding of Bethlehem Hospital; and the
+sign-stone, representing a dog squatting upon his haunches, with a
+duck in his mouth, with the date 1617, is imbedded in the brick wall
+of the Hospital garden, upon the site of the entrance to the old
+tavern; and at the Hospital is a drawing of the Dog and Duck: it was a
+resort of Hannah More's "Cheapside Apprentice."
+
+Bermondsey Spa, a chalybeate spring, discovered about 1770, was
+opened, in 1780, as a minor Vauxhall, with fireworks, pictures of
+still life, and a picture-model of the Siege of Gibraltar, painted by
+Keyse, the entire apparatus occupying about four acres. He died in
+1800, and the garden was shut up about 1805. There are Tokens of the
+place extant, and the Spa-road is named from it.
+
+A few of the old Southwark taverns have been described. From its being
+the seat of our early Theatres, the houses of entertainment were here
+very numerous, in addition to the old historic Inns, which are fast
+disappearing. In the Beaufoy collection are several Southwark Tavern
+Tokens; as--The Bore's Head, 1649 (between Nos. 25 and 26
+High-street). Next also is a Dogg and Dvcke token, 1651 (St. George's
+Fields); the Greene Man, 1651 (which remains in Blackman-street); ye
+Bull Head Taverne, 1667, mentioned by Edward Alleyn, founder of
+Dulwich College, as one of his resorts; Duke of Suffolk's Head, 1669;
+and the Swan with Two Necks.
+
+FOOTNOTE:
+
+[52] See the Descriptions of Vauxhall Gardens in _Curiosities of
+London_, pp. 745-748. _Walks and Talks about London_, pp. 16-30.
+_Romance of London_, vol. iii. pp. 34-44.
+
+
+FREEMASONS' LODGES.
+
+Mr. Elmes, in his admirable work, _Sir Christopher Wren and his
+Times_, 1852, thus glances at the position of Freemasonry in the
+Metropolis two centuries since, or from the time of the Great Fire:
+
+"In 1666 Wren was nominated deputy Grand Master under Earl Rivers, and
+distinguished himself above all his predecessors in legislating for
+the body at large, and in promoting the interests of the lodges under
+his immediate care. He was Master of the St. Paul's Lodge, which,
+during the building of the Cathedral, assembled at the Goose and
+Gridiron in St. Paul's Churchyard, and is now the Lodge of Antiquity,
+acting by immemorial prescription, and regularly presided at its
+meetings for upwards of eighteen years. During his presidency he
+presented that Lodge with three mahogany candlesticks, beautifully
+carved, and the trowel and mallet which he used in laying the first
+stone of the Cathedral, June 21, 1675, which the brethren of that
+ancient and distinguished Lodge still possess and duly appreciate.
+
+"During the building of the City, Lodges were held by the fraternity
+in different places, and several new ones constituted, which were
+attended by the leading architects and the best builders of the day,
+and amateur brethren of the mystic craft. In 1674 Earl Rivers resigned
+his grand-mastership, and George Villiers, Duke of Buckingham, was
+elected to the dignified office. He left the care of the Grand Lodge
+and the brotherhood to the deputy Grand Master Wren and his Wardens.
+During the short reign of James II., who tolerated no secret societies
+but the Jesuits, the Lodges were but thinly attended; but in 1685, Sir
+Christopher Wren was elected Grand Master of the Order, and nominated
+Gabriel Cibber, the sculptor, and Edward Strong, the master mason at
+St. Paul's and other of the City churches, as Grand Wardens. The
+Society has continued with various degrees of success to the present
+day, particularly under the grand-masterships of the Prince of Wales,
+afterwards King George IV.,[53] and his brother, the late Duke of
+Sussex, and since the death of the latter, under that of the Earl of
+Zetland; and Lodges under the constitution of the Grand Lodge of
+England are held in every part of the habitable globe, as its
+numerically and annually-increasing lists abundantly show."
+
+Sir Francis Palgrave, in an elaborate paper in the _Edinburgh Review_,
+April, 1839, however, takes another view of the subject, telling us
+that "the connexion between the operative masons,[54] and those whom,
+without disrespect, we must term a convivial society of good fellows,
+met at the 'Goose and Gridiron, in St. Paul his Churchyard,' appears
+to have been finally dissolved about the beginning of the eighteenth
+century. The theoretical and mystic, for we dare not say ancient,
+Freemasons, separated from the Worshipful Company of Masons and
+Citizens of London about the period above mentioned. It appears from
+an inventory of the contents of the chest of the London Company, that
+not very long since, it contained 'a book wrote on parchment, and
+bound or stitched in parchment, containing 113 annals of the
+antiquity, rise, and progress of the art and mystery of Masonry.' But
+this document is not now to be found."
+
+There is in existence, and known to persons who take an interest in
+the History of Freemasonry, a copperplate List of Freemasons' Lodges
+in London in the reign of Queen Anne, with a representation of the
+Signs, and some Masonic ceremony, in which are eleven figures of
+well-dressed men, in the costume of the above period. There were then
+129 Lodges, of which 86 were in London, 36 in English cities, and
+seven abroad.
+
+Freemasonry evidently sprang up in London at the building of St.
+Paul's; and many of the oldest Lodges are in the neighbourhood. But
+the head-quarters of Freemasonry, are the Grand Hall, in the rear of
+Freemasons' Tavern, 62, Great Queen-street, Lincoln's Inn Fields: it
+was commenced May 1, 1775, from the designs of Thomas Sandby, R.A.,
+Professor of Architecture in the Royal Academy: 5000_l._ was raised by
+a Tontine towards the cost; and the Hall was opened and dedicated in
+solemn form, May 23, 1776; Lord Petre, Grand-Master. "It is the first
+house built in this country with the appropriate symbols of masonry,
+and with the suitable apartments for the holding of lodges, the
+initiating, passing, raising, and exalting of brethren." Here are held
+the Grand and other lodges, which hitherto assembled in the Halls of
+the City Companies.
+
+Freemasons' Hall, as originally decorated, is shown in a print of the
+annual procession of Freemasons' Orphans, by T. Stothard, R.A. It is a
+finely-proportioned room, 92 feet by 43 feet, and 60 feet high; and
+will hold 1500 persons: it was re-decorated in 1846: the ceiling and
+coving are richly decorated; above the principal entrance is a large
+gallery, with an organ; and at the opposite end is a coved recess,
+flanked by a pair of fluted Ionic columns, and Egyptian doorways; the
+sides are decorated with fluted Ionic pilasters; and throughout the
+room in the frieze are masonic emblems, gilt upon a transparent blue
+ground. In the intercolumniations are full-length royal and other
+masonic portraits, including that of the Duke of Sussex, as
+Grand-Master, by Sir W. Beechey, R.A. In the end recess is a marble
+statue of the Duke of Sussex, executed for the Grand Lodge, by E. H.
+Baily, R.A. The statue is seven feet six inches high, and the pedestal
+six feet; the Duke wears the robes of a Knight of the Garter, and the
+Guelphic insignia: at his side is a small altar, sculptured with
+masonic emblems.
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[53] The Prince was initiated in a Lodge at the Key and Garter, No.
+26, Pall Mall.
+
+[54] Hampton Court Palace was built by Freemasons, as appears from the
+very curious accounts of the expenses of the fabric, extant among the
+public records of London.
+
+
+WHITEBAIT TAVERNS.
+
+At what period the lovers of good living first went to eat Whitebait
+at "the taverns contiguous to the places where the fish is taken," is
+not very clear. At all events, the houses did not resemble the
+Brunswick, the West India Dock, the Ship, or the Trafalgar, of the
+present day, these having much of the architectural pretension of a
+modern club-house.
+
+Whitebait have long been numbered among the delicacies of our tables;
+for we find "six dishes of Whitebait" in the funeral feast of the
+munificent founder of the Charterhouse, given in the Hall of the
+Stationers' Company, on May 28, 1612--the year before the Globe
+Theatre was burnt down, and the New River completed. For aught we know
+these delicious fish may have been served up to Henry VIII. and Queen
+Elizabeth in their palace at Greenwich, off which place, and Blackwall
+opposite, Whitebait have been for ages taken in the Thames at
+flood-tide. To the river-side taverns we must go to enjoy a "Whitebait
+dinner," for, one of the conditions of success is that the fish should
+be directly netted out of the river into the cook's cauldron.
+
+About the end of March, or early in April, Whitebait make their
+appearance in the Thames, and are then small, apparently but just
+changed from the albuminous state of the young fry. During June, July,
+and August, immense quantities are consumed by visitors to the
+different taverns at Greenwich and Blackwall.
+
+Pennant says: Whitebait "are esteemed very delicious when fried with
+fine flour, and occasion during the season a vast resort of the _lower
+order of epicures_ to the taverns contiguous to the places where they
+are taken." If this account be correct, there must have been a strange
+change in the grade of the epicures frequenting Greenwich and
+Blackwall since Pennant's days; for at present, the fashion of eating
+Whitebait is sanctioned by the highest authorities, from the Court of
+St. James's Palace in the West, to the Lord Mayor and _his_ court in
+the East; besides the philosophers of the Royal Society, and her
+Majesty's Cabinet Ministers. Who, for example, does not recollect such
+a paragraph as the following, which appeared in the _Morning Post_ of
+the day on which Mr. Yarrell wrote his account of Whitebait, September
+10th, 1835?--
+
+"Yesterday, the Cabinet Ministers went down the river in the Ordnance
+barges to Lovegrove's West India Dock Tavern, Blackwall, to partake of
+their annual fish dinner. Covers were laid for thirty-five gentlemen."
+
+For our own part, we consider the Ministers did not evince their usual
+good policy in choosing so late a period as September; the Whitebait
+being finer eating in July or August; so that their "annual fish
+dinner" must rather be regarded as a sort of prandial wind-up of the
+parliamentary session than as a specimen of refined epicurism.
+
+We remember many changes in matters concerning Whitebait at Greenwich
+and Blackwall. Formerly, the taverns were mostly built with
+weather-board fronts, with bow-windows, so as to command a view of
+the river. The old Ship, and the Crown and Sceptre, taverns at
+Greenwich were built in this manner; and some of the Blackwall houses
+were of humble pretensions: these have disappeared, and handsome
+architectural piles have been erected in their places. Meanwhile,
+Whitebait have been sent to the metropolis, by railway, or steamer,
+where they figure in fishmongers' shops, and tavern _cartes_ of almost
+every degree.
+
+Perhaps the famed delicacy of Whitebait rests as much upon its skilful
+cookery as upon the freshness of the fish. Dr. Pereira has published
+the mode of cooking in one of Lovegrave's "bait-kitchens" at
+Blackwall. The fish should be dressed within an hour after being
+caught, or they are apt to cling together. They are kept in water,
+from which they are taken by a skimmer as required; they are then
+thrown upon a layer of flour, contained in a large napkin, in which
+they are shaken until completely enveloped in flour; they are then put
+into a colander, and all the superfluous flour is removed by sifting;
+the fish are next thrown into hot lard contained in a copper cauldron
+or stew-pan placed over a charcoal fire; in about two minutes they are
+removed by a tin skimmer, thrown into a colander to drain, and served
+up instantly, by placing them on a fish-drainer in a dish. The
+rapidity of the cooking process is of the utmost importance; and if it
+be not attended to, the fish will lose their crispness, and be
+worthless. At table, lemon juice is squeezed over them, and they are
+seasoned with Cayenne pepper; brown bread and butter is substituted
+for plain bread; and they are eaten with iced champagne, or punch.
+
+The origin of the Ministers' Fish Dinner, already mentioned, has been
+thus pleasantly narrated:
+
+Every year, the approach of the close of the Parliamentary Session is
+indicated by what is termed "the Ministerial Fish Dinner," in which
+Whitebait forms a prominent dish; and Cabinet Ministers are the
+company. The Dinner takes place at a principal tavern, usually at
+Greenwich, but sometimes at Blackwall: the dining-room is decorated
+for the occasion, which partakes of a state entertainment. Formerly,
+however, the Ministers went down the river from Whitehall in an
+Ordnance gilt barge: now, a government steamer is employed. The origin
+of this annual festivity is told as follows. On the banks of Dagenham
+Lake or Reach, in Essex, many years since, there stood a cottage,
+occupied by a princely merchant named Preston, a baronet of Scotland
+and Nova Scotia, and sometime M.P. for Dover. He called it his
+"fishing cottage," and often in the spring he went thither, with a
+friend or two, as a relief to the toils of parliamentary and
+mercantile duties. His most frequent guest was the Right Hon. George
+Rose, Secretary of the Treasury, and an Elder Brother of the Trinity
+House. Many a day did these two worthies enjoy at Dagenham Reach; and
+Mr. Rose once intimated to Sir Robert, that Mr. Pitt, of whose
+friendship they were both justly proud, would, no doubt, delight in
+the comfort of such a retreat. A day was named, and the Premier was
+invited; and he was so well pleased with his reception at the "fishing
+cottage"--they were all two if not three bottle men--that, on taking
+leave, Mr. Pitt readily accepted an invitation for the following year.
+
+For a few years, the Premier continued a visitor to Dagenham, and was
+always accompanied by Mr. George Rose. But the distance was
+considerable; the going and coming were somewhat inconvenient for the
+First Minister of the Crown. Sir Robert Preston, however, had his
+remedy, and he proposed that they should in future dine nearer London.
+Greenwich was suggested: we do not hear of Whitebait in the Dagenham
+dinners, and its introduction, probably, dates from the removal to
+Greenwich. The party of three was now increased to four; Mr. Pitt
+being permitted to bring Lord Camden. Soon after, a fifth guest was
+invited--Mr. Charles Long, afterwards Lord Farnborough. All were still
+the guests of Sir Robert Preston; but, one by one, other notables were
+invited,--all Tories--and, at last, Lord Camden considerately
+remarked, that, as they were all dining at a tavern, it was but fair
+that Sir Robert Preston should be relieved from the expense. It was
+then arranged that the dinner should be given, as usual, by Sir Robert
+Preston, that is to say, at his invitation; and he insisted on still
+contributing a buck and champagne: the rest of the charges were
+thenceforth defrayed by the several guests; and, on this plan, the
+meeting continued to take place annually till the death of Mr. Pitt.
+
+Sir Robert was requested, next year, to summon the several guests, the
+list of whom, by this time, included most of the Cabinet Ministers.
+The time for meeting was usually after Trinity Monday, a short period
+before the end of the Session. By degrees, the meeting, which was
+originally purely gastronomic, appears to have assumed, in consequence
+of the long reign of the Tories, a political, or semi-political
+character. Sir Robert Preston died; but Mr. Long, now Lord
+Farnborough, undertook to summon the several guests, the list of whom
+was furnished by Sir Robert Preston's private secretary. Hitherto, the
+invitations had been sent privately: now they were dispatched in
+Cabinet boxes, and the party was, certainly, for some time, limited to
+the Members of the Cabinet. A dinner lubricates ministerial as well as
+other business; so that the "Ministerial Fish Dinner" may "contribute
+to the grandeur and prosperity of our beloved country."
+
+The following Carte is from the last edition of the _Art of Dining_,
+in Murray's _Railway Reading_:--
+
+     _Fish Dinner at Blackwall or Greenwich._
+
+           La tortue à l'Anglaise.
+           La bisque d'écrevisses.
+           Le consommé aux quenelles de merlan.
+           De tortue claire.
+     Les casseroles de green fat feront le tour de la table.
+           Les tranches de saumon (crimped).
+           Le poisson de St. Pierre à la crême.
+           Le zoutchet de perches.
+               "   de truites.
+               "   de flottons.
+               "   de soles (crimped).
+               "   de saumon.
+               "   d'anguilles.
+           Les lamproies à la Worcester.
+           Les croques en bouches de laitances de maquereau.
+           Les boudins de merlans à la reine.
+     Garnis { Les soles menues frites.
+       de   { Les petits carrelets frites.
+     persil { Croquettes de homard.
+     frit.  { Les filets d'anguilles.
+           La truite saumonée à la Tartare.
+           Le whitebait: _id._ à la diable.
+
+     _Second Service._
+
+     Les petits poulets au cresson--le jambonneau aux épinards.
+
+     La Mayonnaise de filets de soles--les filets de merlans à
+     l'Arpin.
+
+     Les petits pois à l'Anglaise--les artichauts à la Barigoule.
+
+     La gelée de Marasquin aux fraises--les pets de nonnes.
+
+     Les tartelettes aux cerises--les célestines à la fleur
+     d'orange.
+
+     Le baba à la compôte d'abricots--le fromage Plombière.
+
+Mr. Walker, in his _Original_, gives an account of a dinner he
+ordered, at Lovegrove's, at Blackwall, where if you never dined, so
+much the worse for you:--
+
+     "The party will consist of seven men besides myself, and
+     every guest is asked for some reason--upon which good
+     fellowship mainly depends; for people brought together
+     unconnectedly had, in my opinion, better be kept separately.
+     Eight I hold the golden number, never to be exceeded without
+     weakening the efficacy of concentration. The dinner is to
+     consist of turtle, followed by no other fish but Whitebait,
+     which is to be followed by no other meat but grouse, which
+     are to be succeeded simply by apple-fritters and jelly,
+     pastry on such occasions being quite out of place. With the
+     turtle, of course, there will be punch; with the Whitebait,
+     champagne; and with the grouse, claret; the two former I
+     have ordered to be particularly well iced, and they will all
+     be placed in succession upon the table, so that we can help
+     ourselves as we please. I shall permit no other wines,
+     unless, perchance, a bottle or two of port, if particularly
+     wanted, as I hold variety of wines a great mistake. With
+     respect to the adjuncts, I shall take care that there is
+     cayenne, with lemons cut in halves, not in quarters, within
+     reach of every one, for the turtle, and that brown bread and
+     butter in abundance is set upon the table for the Whitebait.
+     It is no trouble to think of these little matters
+     beforehand, but they make a vast difference in convivial
+     contentment. The dinner will be followed by ices, and a good
+     dessert, after which coffee and one glass of liqueur each,
+     and no more; so that the present may be enjoyed without
+     inducing retrospective regrets. If the master of a feast
+     wish his party to succeed, he must know how to command; and
+     not let his guests run riot, each according to his own wild
+     fancy."
+
+
+THE LONDON TAVERN,
+
+Situated about the middle of the western side of Bishopsgate-street.
+Within, presents in its frontage a mezzanine-storey, and lofty
+Venetian windows, reminding one of the old-fashioned assembly-room
+façade. The site of the present tavern was previously occupied by the
+White Lion Tavern, which was destroyed in an extensive fire on the 7th
+of November, 1765; it broke out at a peruke-maker's opposite; the
+flames were carried by a high wind across the street, to the house
+immediately adjoining the tavern, the fire speedily reaching the
+corner; the other angles of Cornhill, Gracechurch-street, and
+Leadenhall-street, were all on fire at the same time, and fifty houses
+and buildings were destroyed and damaged, including the White Lion and
+Black Lion Taverns.
+
+Upon the site of the former was founded "The London Tavern," on the
+Tontine principle; it was commenced in 1767, and completed and opened
+in September, 1768; Richard B. Jupp, architect. The front is more than
+80 feet wide by nearly 70 feet in height.
+
+The Great Dining-room, or "Pillar-room," as it is called, is 40 feet
+by 33 feet, decorated with medallions and garlands, Corinthian columns
+and pilasters. At the top of the edifice is the ball-room, extending
+the whole length of the structure, by 33 feet in width and 30 feet in
+height, which may be laid out as a banqueting-room for 300 feasters;
+exclusively of accommodating 150 ladies as spectators in the galleries
+at each end. The walls are throughout hung with paintings; and the
+large room has an organ.
+
+The Turtle is kept in large tanks, which occupy a whole vault, where
+two tons of turtle may sometimes be seen swimming in one vat. We have
+to thank Mr. Cunningham for this information, which is noteworthy,
+independently of its epicurean association,--that "turtles will live
+in cellars for three months in excellent condition if kept in the same
+water in which they were brought to this country. To change the water
+is to lessen the weight and flavour of the turtle." Turtle does not
+appear in bills of fare of entertainments given by Lord Mayors and
+Sheriffs between the years 1761 and 1766; and it is not till 1768 that
+turtle appears by name, and then in the bill of the banquet at the
+Mansion House to the King of Denmark. The cellars, which consist of
+the whole basement storey, are filled with barrels of porter, pipes of
+port, butts of sherry, etc. Then there are a labyrinth of walls of
+bottle ends, and a region of bins, six bottles deep; the catacombs of
+Johannisberg, Tokay, and Burgundy. "Still we glide on through rivers
+of sawdust, through embankments of genial wine. There are twelve
+hundred of champagne down here; there are between six and seven
+hundred dozen of claret; corked up in these bins is a capital of from
+eleven to twelve thousand pounds; these bottles absorb, in simple
+interest at five per cent., an income amounting to some five or six
+hundred pounds per annum."[55] "It was not, however, solely for
+uncovering these floods of mighty wines, nor for luxurious feasting
+that the London Tavern was at first erected, nor for which it is still
+exclusively famous, since it was always designed to provide a
+spacious and convenient place for public meetings. One of the earliest
+printed notices concerning the establishment is of this character, it
+being the account of a meeting for promoting a public subscription for
+John Wilkes, on the 12th of February, 1769, at which 3000_l._ were
+raised, and local committees appointed for the provinces. In the
+Spring season such meetings and committees of all sorts are equally
+numerous and conflicting with each other, for they not unfrequently
+comprise an interesting charitable election or two; and in addition
+the day's entertainments are often concluded with more than one large
+dinner, and an evening party for the lady spectators.
+
+"Here, too, may be seen the hasty arrivals of persons for the meetings
+of the Mexican Bondholders on the second-floor; of a Railway assurance
+'up-stairs, and first to the left;' of an asylum election at the end
+of the passage; and of the party on the 'first-floor to the right,'
+who had to consider of 'the union of the Gibbleton line to the
+Great-Trunk-Due-Eastern-Junction.'
+
+"For these business meetings the rooms are arranged with benches, and
+sumptuously Turkey-carpeted; the end being provided with a long table
+for the directors, with an imposing array of papers and pens,
+
+"'The morn, the noon, the day is pass'd' in the reports, the speeches,
+the recriminations and defences of these parties, until it is nearly
+five o'clock. In the very same room the Hooping Cough Asylum Dinner is
+to take place at six; and the Mexican Bondholders are stamping and
+hooting above, on the same floor which in an hour is to support the
+feast of some Worshipful Company which makes it their hall. The feat
+appears to be altogether impossible; nevertheless, it must and will be
+most accurately performed."
+
+The Secretary has scarcely bound the last piece of red tape round his
+papers, when four men rush to the four corners of the Turkey carpet,
+and half of it is rolled up, dust and all. Four other men with the
+half of a clean carpet bowl it along in the wake of the one displaced.
+While you are watching the same performance with the remaining half of
+the floor, a battalion of waiters has fitted up, upon the new half
+carpet, a row of dining-tables and covered them with table-cloths.
+While in turn you watch them, the entire apartment is tabled and
+table-clothed. Thirty men are at this work upon a system, strictly
+departmental. Rinse and three of his followers lay the knives; Burrows
+and three more cause the glasses to sparkle on the board. You express
+your wonder at this magical celerity. Rinse moderately replies that
+the same game is going on in the other four rooms; and this happens
+six days out of the seven in the dining-room.
+
+When the Banquet was given to Mr. Macready in February, 1851, the
+London Tavern could not accommodate all the company, because there
+were seven hundred and odd; and the Hall of Commerce was taken for the
+dinner. The merchants and brokers were transacting business there at
+four o'clock; and in two hours, seats, tables, platforms, dinner,
+wine, gas, and company, were all in. By a quarter before six
+everything was ready, and a chair placed before each plate. Exactly at
+six, everything was placed upon the table, and most of the guests were
+seated.
+
+For effecting these wonderful evolutions, it will be no matter of
+surprise that we are told that an army of servants, sixty or seventy
+strong, is retained on the establishment; taking on auxiliary legions
+during the dining season.
+
+The business of this gigantic establishment is of such extent as to be
+only carried on by this systematic means. Among the more prominent
+displays of its resources which take place here are the annual
+Banquets of the officers of some twenty-eight different regiments, in
+the month of May. There are likewise given here a very large number of
+the annual entertainments of the different Charities of London.
+Twenty-four of the City Companies hold their Banquets here, and
+transact official business. Several Balls take place here annually.
+Masonic Lodges are held here; and almost innumerable Meetings, Sales,
+and Elections for Charities alternate with the more directly festive
+business of the London Tavern. Each of the departments of so vast an
+establishment has its special interest. We have glanced at its
+dining-halls, and its turtle and wine cellars.[56] To detail its
+kitchens and the management of its stores and supplies, and
+consumption, would extend beyond our limit, so that we shall end by
+remarking that upon no portion of our metropolis is more largely
+enjoyed the luxury of doing good, and the observance of the rights and
+duties of goodfellowship, than at the London Tavern.
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[55] _Household Words_, 1852.
+
+[56] The usual allowance at what is called a Turtle-Dinner, is 6 lb.
+live weight per head. At the Spanish-Dinner, at the City of London
+Tavern, in 1808, four hundred guests attended, and 2500lb. of turtle
+were consumed.
+
+For the Banquet at Guildhall, on Lord Mayor's Day, 250 tureens of
+turtle are provided.
+
+Turtle may be enjoyed in steaks, cutlets, or fins, and as soup, clear
+and _purée_, at the Albion, London, and Freemasons', and other large
+taverns. "The Ship and Turtle Tavern," Nos. 129 and 130,
+Leadenhall-street, is especially famous for its turtle; and from this
+establishment several of the West-end Club-houses are supplied.
+
+
+THE CLARENDON HOTEL.
+
+This sumptuous hotel, the reader need scarcely be informed, takes its
+name from its being built upon a portion of the gardens of Clarendon
+House gardens, between Albemarle and Bond streets, in each of which
+the hotel has a frontage. The house was, for a short term, let to the
+Earl of Chatham, for his town residence.
+
+The Clarendon contains series of apartments, fitted for the reception
+of princes and their suites, and for nobility. Here are likewise given
+official banquets on the most costly scale.
+
+Among the records of the house is the _menu_ of the dinner given to
+Lord Chesterfield, on his quitting the office of Master of the
+Buckhounds, at the Clarendon. The party consisted of thirty; the price
+was six guineas a head; and the dinner was ordered by Count D'Orsay,
+who stood almost without a rival amongst connoisseurs in this
+department of art:--
+
+       "_Premier Service._
+
+     "_Potages._--Printanier: à la reine: _turtle_.
+
+     "_Poissons._--Turbot (_lobster and Dutch sauces_): saumon à
+     la Tartare: rougets à la cardinal: friture de morue:
+     _whitebait_.
+
+     "_Relevés._--Filet de boeuf à la Napolitaine: dindon à la
+     chipolata: timballe de macaroni: _haunch of venison_.
+
+     "_Entrées._--Croquettes de volaille: petits pâtés aux
+     huîtres: côtelettes d'agneau: purée de champignons:
+     côtelettes d'agneau aux points d'asperge: fricandeau de veau
+     à l'oseille: ris de veau piqué aux tomates: côtelettes de
+     pigeons à la Dusselle: chartreuse de légumes aux faisans:
+     filets de cannetons à la Bigarrade: boudins à la Richelieu:
+     sauté de volaille aux truffes: pâté de mouton monté.
+
+     "_Côté._--Boeuf rôti: jambon: salade.
+
+     "_Second Service._
+
+     "_Rôts._--Chapons, quails, turkey poults, _green goose_.
+
+     "_Entremets._--Asperges: haricot à la Française: mayonnaise
+     de homard: gelée Macédoine: aspics d'oeufs de pluvier:
+     Charlotte Russe: gelée au Marasquin: crême marbre: corbeille
+     de pâtisserie: vol-au-vent de rhubarb: tourte d'abricots:
+     corbeille des meringues: dressed crab: salade au
+     gélantine.--Champignons aux fines herbes.
+
+     "_Relevés._--Soufflé à la vanille: Nesselrode pudding:
+     Adelaide sandwiches: fondus. Pièces montées," etc.
+
+The reader will not fail to observe how well the English
+dishes,--turtle, whitebait, and venison,--relieve the French in this
+dinner: and what a breadth, depth, solidity, and dignity they add to
+it. Green goose, also, may rank as English, the goose being held in
+little honour, with the exception of its liver, by the French; but we
+think Comte D'Orsay did quite right in inserting it. The execution is
+said to have been pretty nearly on a par with the conception, and the
+whole entertainment was crowned with the most inspiriting success. The
+price was not unusually large.[57]
+
+FOOTNOTE:
+
+[57] _The Art of Dining._ Murray, 1852.
+
+
+FREEMASONS' TAVERN, GREAT QUEEN-STREET.
+
+This well-appointed tavern, built by William Tyler, in 1786, and since
+considerably enlarged, in addition to the usual appointments,
+possesses the great advantage of Freemasons' Hall, wherein take place
+some of our leading public festivals and anniversary dinners, the
+latter mostly in May and June. Here was given the farewell dinner to
+John Philip Kemble, upon his retirement from the stage, in 1817; the
+public dinner, on his birthday, to James Hogg, the Ettrick Shepherd,
+in 1832; Mollard, who has published an excellent _Art of Cookery_, was
+many years _Maître d'Hôtel_, and proprietor of the Freemasons' Tavern.
+
+In the Hall meet the Madrigal Society, the Melodists' and other
+musical clubs: and the annual dinners of the Theatrical Fund, Artists'
+Societies, and other public institutions, are given here.
+
+Freemasons' Hall has obtained some notoriety as the arena in which
+were delivered and acted the Addresses at the Anniversary Dinners of
+the Literary Fund, upon whose eccentricities we find the following
+amusing note in the latest edition of the _Rejected Addresses_:--
+
+"The annotator's first personal knowledge of William Thomas
+Fitzgerald, was at Harry Greville's Pic-Nic Theatre, in
+Tottenham-street, where he personated Zanga in a wig too small for his
+head. The second time of seeing him was at the table of old Lord
+Dudley, who familiarly called him Fitz, but forgot to name him in his
+will. The Viscount's son, however, liberally supplied the omission by
+a donation of five thousand pounds. The third and last time of
+encountering him was at an anniversary dinner of the Literary Fund, at
+the Freemasons' Tavern. Both parties, as two of the stewards, met
+their brethren in a small room about half-an-hour before dinner. The
+lampooner, out of delicacy, kept aloof from the poet. The latter,
+however, made up to him, when the following dialogue took place:
+
+"Fitzgerald (with good humour). 'Mr. ----, I mean to recite after
+dinner,'
+
+"Mr. ----. 'Do you?'
+
+"Fitzgerald. 'Yes: you'll have more of God bless the Regent and the
+Duke of York!'
+
+"The whole of this imitation, (one of the Rejected Addresses,) after a
+lapse of twenty years, appears to the authors too personal and
+sarcastic; but they may shelter themselves under a very broad
+mantle:--
+
+               "Let hoarse Fitzgerald bawl
+     His creaking couplets in a tavern-hall."--_Byron._
+
+"Fitzgerald actually sent in an address to the Committee on the 31st
+of August, 1812. It was published among the other _Genuine Rejected
+Addresses_, in one volume, in that year. The following is an
+extract:--
+
+     "The troubled shade of Garrick, hovering near,
+     Dropt on the burning pile a pitying tear."
+
+"What a pity that, like Sterne's recording angel, it did not succeed
+in blotting the fire out for ever! That falling, why not adopt
+Gulliver's remedy?"
+
+Upon the "Rejected," the _Edinburgh Review_ notes:--"The first piece,
+under the name of the loyal Mr. Fitzgerald, though as good we suppose
+as the original, is not very interesting. Whether it be very like Mr.
+Fitzgerald or not, however, it must be allowed that the vulgarity,
+servility, and gross absurdity of the newspaper scribblers is well
+rendered."
+
+
+THE ALBION, ALDERSGATE-STREET.
+
+This extensive establishment has long been famed for its good dinners,
+and its excellent wines. Here take place the majority of the banquets
+of the Corporation of London, the Sheriffs' Inauguration Dinners, as
+well as those of Civic Companies and Committees, and such festivals,
+public and private, as are usually held at taverns of the highest
+class.
+
+The farewell Dinners given by the East India Company to the
+Governors-General of India, usually take place at the Albion. "Here
+likewise (after dinner) the annual trade sales of the principal London
+publishers take place," revivifying the olden printing and book
+glories of Aldersgate and Little Britain.
+
+The _cuisine_ of the Albion has long been celebrated for its
+_recherché_ character. Among the traditions of the tavern it is told
+that a dinner was once given here, under the auspices of the
+_gourmand_ Alderman Sir William Curtis, which cost the party between
+thirty and forty pounds apiece. It might well have cost twice as much,
+for amongst other acts of extravagance, they dispatched a special
+messenger to Westphalia to choose a ham. There is likewise told a bet
+as to the comparative merits of the Albion and York House (Bath)
+dinners, which was to have been formally decided by a dinner of
+unparalleled munificence, and nearly equal cost at each; but it became
+a drawn bet, the Albion beating in the first course, and the York
+House in the second. Still, these are reminiscences on which, we
+frankly own, no great reliance is to be placed.
+
+Lord Southampton once gave a dinner at the Albion, at ten guineas a
+head; and the ordinary price for the best dinner at this house
+(including wine) is three guineas.[58]
+
+FOOTNOTE:
+
+[58] _The Art of Dining._--Murray, 1852.
+
+
+ST. JAMES'S HALL.
+
+This new building which is externally concealed by houses, except the
+fronts, in Piccadilly and Regent-street, consists of a greater Hall
+and two minor Halls, which are let for Concerts, Lectures, etc., and
+also form part of the Tavern establishment, two of the Halls being
+used as public dining-rooms. The principal Hall, larger than St.
+Martin's, but smaller than Exeter Hall, is 140 feet long, 60 feet
+wide, and 60 feet high. At one end is a semicircular recess, in which
+stands the large organ. The noble room has been decorated by Mr. Owen
+Jones with singularly light, rich, and festive effect: the grand
+feature being the roof, which is blue and white, red and gold, in
+Alhambresque patterns. The lighting is quite novel, and consists of
+gas-stars, depending from the roof, which thus appears spangled.
+
+The superb decoration and effective lighting, render this a truly
+festive Hall, with abundant space to set off the banquet displays. The
+first Public Dinner was given here on June 2, 1858, when Mr. Robert
+Stephenson, the eminent engineer, presided, and a silver salver and
+claret-jug, with a sum of money--altogether in value 2678_l._--were
+presented to Mr. F. Petit Smith, in recognition of his bringing into
+general use the System of Screw Propulsion; the testimonial being
+purchased by 138 subscribers, chiefly eminent naval officers,
+ship-builders, ship-owners, and men of science.
+
+In the following month, (20th of July,) a banquet was given here to
+Mr. Charles Kean, F.S.A., in testimony of his having exalted the
+English theatre--of his public merits and private virtues. The Duke of
+Newcastle presided: there was a brilliant presence of guests, and
+nearly four hundred ladies were in the galleries. Subsequently, in the
+Hall was presented to Mr. Kean the magnificent service of plate,
+purchased by public subscription.
+
+The success of these intellectual banquets proved a most auspicious
+inauguration of St. James's Hall for--
+
+     "The feast of reason and the flow of soul."
+
+
+THEATRICAL TAVERNS.
+
+Among these establishments, the Eagle, in the City-road, deserves
+mention. It occupies the site of the Shepherd and Shepherdess, a
+tavern and tea-garden of some seventy-five years since. To the Eagle
+is annexed a large theatre.
+
+Sadler's Wells was, at one period, a tavern theatre, where the
+audience took their wine while they sat and witnessed the
+performances.
+
+
+
+
+APPENDIX.
+
+
+BEEFSTEAK SOCIETY.
+
+(Vol. I. page 149.)
+
+We find in Smith's _Book for a Rainy Day_ the following record
+respecting the Beefsteak Society, or, as he calls it, in an unorthodox
+way, Club:--
+
+"Mr. John Nixon, of Basinghall-street, gave me the following
+information. Mr. Nixon, as Secretary, had possession of the original
+book. Lambert's Club was first held in Covent Garden theatre [other
+accounts state, in the Lincoln's-Inn-Fields theatre,] in the upper
+room called the 'Thunder and Lightning;' then in one even with the
+two-shilling gallery; next in an apartment even with the boxes; and
+afterwards in a lower room, where they remained until the fire. After
+that time, Mr. Harris insisted upon it, as the playhouse was a new
+building, that the Club should not be held there. They then went to
+the Bedford Coffee-house, next-door. Upon the ceiling of the
+dining-room they placed Lambert's original gridiron, which had been
+saved from the fire. They had a kitchen, a cook, a wine-cellar, etc.,
+entirely independent of the Bedford Hotel.
+
+"There was also a Society held at Robins's room, called 'The Ad
+Libitum,' of which Mr. Nixon had the books; but it was a totally
+different Society, quite unconnected with the Beefsteak Club."
+
+
+WHITE'S CLUB.
+
+(Vol. I. page 121.)
+
+The following humorous Address was supposed to have been written by
+Colonel Lyttelton, brother to Sir George Lyttelton, in 1752, on His
+Majesty's return from Hanover, when numberless Addresses were
+presented. White's was then a Chocolate-house, near St. James's
+Palace, and was the famous gaming-house, where most of the nobility
+had meetings and a Society:--
+
+       "_The Gamesters' Address to the King._
+
+     "Most Righteous Sovereign,
+
+     "May it please your Majesty, we, the Lords, Knights, etc.,
+     of the Society of White's, beg leave to throw ourselves at
+     your Majesty's feet (our honours and consciences lying under
+     the _table_, and our fortunes being ever at stake), and
+     congratulate your Majesty's happy return to these kingdoms
+     which assemble us together, to the great advantage of some,
+     the ruin of others, and the unspeakable satisfaction of all,
+     both us, our wives, and children. We beg leave to
+     acknowledge your Majesty's great goodness and lenity, in
+     allowing us to break those laws, which we ourselves have
+     made, and you have sanctified and confirmed: while your
+     Majesty alone religiously observes and regards them. And we
+     beg leave to assure your Majesty of our most unfeigned
+     loyalty and attachment to your sacred person; and that next
+     to the Kings of Diamonds, Clubs, Spades, and Hearts, we
+     love, honour, and adore you."
+
+To which His Majesty was pleased to return this most gracious
+answer:--
+
+     "My Lords and Gentlemen,
+
+     "I return you my thanks for your loyal address; but while I
+     have such rivals in your affection, as you tell me of, I can
+     neither think it worth preserving or regarding. I look upon
+     you yourselves as a _pack_ of _cards_, and shall _deal_ with
+     you accordingly."--_Cole's MSS._ vol. xxxi. p. 171,--in the
+     British Museum.
+
+In _Richardsoniana_ we read: "Very often the taste of running
+perpetually after diversions is not a mark of any pleasure taken in
+them, but of none taken in ourselves. This sallying abroad is only
+from uneasiness at home, which is in every one's self. Like a
+gentleman who overlooking them at White's at piquet, till three or
+four in the morning: on a dispute they referred to him; when he
+protested he knew nothing of the game; 'Zounds,' say they, 'and sit
+here till this time?'--'Gentlemen, I'm married!'--'Oh! Sir, we beg
+pardon.'"
+
+
+THE ROYAL ACADEMY CLUB.
+
+This Club consisted exclusively of Members of the Royal Academy.
+Nollekens, the sculptor, for many years, made one at the table; and so
+strongly was he bent upon saving all he could privately conceal, that
+he did not mind paying two guineas a year for his admission-ticket, in
+order to indulge himself with a few nutmegs, which he contrived to
+pocket privately; for as red-wine negus was the principal beverage,
+nutmegs were used. Now, it generally happened, if another bowl was
+wanted, that the nutmegs were missing. Nollekens, who had frequently
+been seen to pocket them, was one day requested by Rossi the sculptor,
+to see if they had not fallen under the table; upon which Nollekens
+actually went crawling beneath, upon his hands and knees, pretending
+to look for them, though at that very time they were in his
+waistcoat-pocket. He was so old a stager at this monopoly of nutmegs,
+that he would sometimes engage the maker of the negus in conversation,
+looking him full in the face, whilst he, slyly and unobserved, as he
+thought, conveyed away the spice; like the fellow who is stealing the
+bank-note from the blind man, in Hogarth's admirable print of the
+Royal Cockpit.--_Smith's Nollekens and his Times_, vol. i. p. 225.
+
+
+DESTRUCTION OF TAVERNS BY FIRE.
+
+On the morning of the 25th of March, 1748, a most calamitous and
+destructive fire commenced at a peruke-maker's, named Eldridge, in
+Exchange Alley, Cornhill; and within twelve hours totally destroyed
+between 90 and 100 houses, besides damaging many others. The flames
+spread in three directions at once, and extending into Cornhill,
+consumed about twenty houses there, including the London Assurance
+Office; the Fleece and the Three Tuns Taverns; and Tom's and the
+Rainbow Coffee-houses. In Exchange Alley, the Swan Tavern, with
+Garraway's, Jonathan's and the Jerusalem Coffee-houses, were burnt
+down; and in the contiguous avenues and Birchin-lane, the George and
+Vulture Tavern, with several other coffee-houses, underwent a like
+fate. Mr. Eldridge, with his wife, children, and servants, all
+perished in the flames. The value of the effects and merchandise
+destroyed was computed at 200,000_l._, exclusive of that of the
+numerous buildings.
+
+In the above fire was consumed the house in which was born the poet
+Gray; and the injury which his property sustained on the occasion,
+induced him to sink a great part of the remainder in purchasing an
+annuity: his father had been an Exchange broker. The house was within
+a few doors of Birchin-lane.
+
+
+THE TZAR OF MUSCOVY'S HEAD, TOWER-STREET.
+
+Close to Tower-hill, and not far from the site of the Rose tavern, is
+a small tavern, or public-house, which received its sign in
+commemoration of the convivial eccentricities of an Emperor, one of
+the most extraordinary characters that ever appeared on the great
+theatre of the world--"who gave a polish to his nation and was himself
+a savage."
+
+Such was Peter the Great, who, with his suite, consisting of
+Menzikoff, and some others, came to London on the twenty-first of
+January, 1698, principally with the view of acquiring information on
+matters connected with naval architecture. We have little evidence
+that during his residence here Peter ever worked as a shipwright in
+Deptford Dockyard, as is generally believed. He was, however, very
+fond of sailing and managing boats and a yacht on the Thames; and his
+great delight was to get a small decked-boat, belonging to the
+Dockyard, and taking only Menzikoff, and three or four others of his
+suite, to work the vessel with them, he being the helmsman. Now, the
+great failing of Peter was his love of strong liquors. He and his
+companions having finished their day's work, used to resort to a
+public-house in Great Tower-street, close to Tower-hill, to smoke
+their pipes, and drink beer and brandy. The landlord, in gratitude for
+the imperial custom, had the Tzar of Muscovy's head painted, and put
+up for his sign, which continued till the year 1808, when a person of
+the name of Waxel took a fancy to the old sign, and offered the then
+occupier of the house to paint him a new one for it. A copy was
+accordingly made from the original, as the sign of "The Tzar of the
+Muscovy," looking like a Tartar. The house has, however, been rebuilt,
+and the sign removed, but the name remains.
+
+
+ROSE TAVERN, TOWER-STREET.
+
+In Tower-street, before the Great Fire, was the Rose tavern, which,
+upon the 4th of January, 1649, was the scene of a memorable explosion
+of gunpowder, and miraculous preservation. It appears that
+over-against the wall of Allhallows Barking churchyard, was the house
+of a ship-chandler, who, about seven o'clock at night, being busy in
+his shop, barreling up gunpowder, it took fire, and in the twinkling
+of an eye, blew up not only that, but all the houses thereabout, to
+the number (towards the street and in back alleys) of fifty or sixty.
+The number of persons destroyed by this blow could never be known, for
+the next house but one was the Rose tavern, a house never (at that
+time of night) but full of company; and that day the parish-dinner was
+at the house. And in three or four days, after digging, they
+continually found heads, arms, legs, and half bodies, miserably torn
+and scorched; besides many whole bodies, not so much as their clothes
+singed.
+
+In the course of this accident, says the narrator (Mr. Leybourne, in
+Strype), "I will instance two; the one a dead, the other a living
+monument. In the digging (strange to relate) they found the mistress
+of the house of the Rose tavern, sitting in her bar, and one of the
+drawers standing by the bar's side, with a pot in his hand, only
+stifled with dust and smoke; their bodies being preserved whole by
+means of great timbers falling across one another. This is one.
+Another is this:--The next morning there was found upon the upper
+leads of Barking church, a young child lying in a cradle, as newly
+laid in bed, neither the child nor the cradle having the least sign of
+any fire or other hurt. It was never known whose child it was, so that
+one of the parish kept it as a memorial; for in the year 1666 I saw
+the child, grown to be then a proper maiden, and came to the man that
+kept her at that time, where he was drinking at a tavern with some
+other company then present. And he told us she was the child so found
+in the cradle upon the church leads as aforesaid."
+
+According to a tablet which hangs beneath the organ gallery of the
+church, the quantity of gunpowder exploded in this catastrophe was
+twenty-seven barrels. Tower-street was wholly destroyed in the Great
+Fire of 1666.
+
+
+THE NAG'S HEAD TAVERN, CHEAPSIDE.
+
+As you pass through Cheapside, you may observe upon the front of the
+old house, No. 39, the sign-stone of a "Nag's Head:" this is presumed
+to have been the sign of the Nag's Head Tavern, which is described as
+at the Cheapside corner of Friday-street. This house obtained some
+notoriety from its having been the pretended scene of the consecration
+of Matthew Parker, Archbishop of Canterbury, in the reign of Queen
+Elizabeth, at that critical period when the English Protestant or
+Reformed Church was in its infancy. Pennant thus relates the
+scandalous story. "It was pretended by the adversaries of our
+religion, that a certain number of ecclesiastics, in their hurry to
+take possession of the vacant see, assembled here, where they were to
+undergo the ceremony from Anthony Kitchen, alias Dunstan, bishop of
+Landaff, a sort of occasional conformist who had taken the oaths of
+supremacy to Elizabeth. Bonner, Bishop of London, (then confined in
+the Tower,) hearing of it, sent his chaplain to Kitchen, threatening
+him with excommunication, in case he proceeded. The prelate therefore
+refused to perform the ceremony: on which, say the Roman Catholics,
+Parker and the other candidates, rather than defer possession of their
+dioceses, determined to consecrate one another; which, says the story,
+they did without any sort of scruple, and Scorey began with Parker,
+who instantly rose Archbishop of Canterbury. The refutation of this
+tale may be read in Strype's _Life of Archbishop Parker_, at p. 57. A
+view of the Nag's Head Tavern and its sign, is preserved in La Serre's
+prints, Entrée de la Reyne Mère du Roy, 1638, and is copied in
+Wilkinson's _Londina Illustrata_.
+
+The Roman Catholics laid the scene in the tavern: the real
+consecration took place in the adjoining church of St. Mary-le-Bow. As
+the form then adopted has been the subject of much controversy, the
+following note, from a letter of Dr. Pusey, dated Dec. 4, 1865, may be
+quoted here:
+
+     "The form adopted at the _confirmation_ of Archbishop
+     Parker was carefully framed on the old form used in the
+     _confirmations_ by Archbishop Chichele" (which was the point
+     for which I examined the registers in the Lambeth library).
+     The words used in the _consecrations_ of the bishops
+     confirmed by Chichele do not occur in the registers. The
+     words used by the consecrators of Parker, "_Accipe Spiritum
+     Sanctum_," were used in the later Pontificals, as in that of
+     Exeter, Lacy's (_Maskell, Monumenta Ritualia_, iii. 258).
+     Roman Catholic writers admit that _that_ only is essential
+     to consecration which the English service-book
+     retained--prayer during the service, which should have
+     reference to the office of bishops, and the imposition of
+     hands. And in fact Cardinal Pole engaged to retain in their
+     orders those who had been so ordained under Edward VI., and
+     his act was confirmed by Paul IV. (_Sanders de Schism.
+     Angl._, L. iii. 350).
+
+
+THE HUMMUMS, COVENT GARDEN.
+
+"Hammam" is the Arabic word for a bagnio, or bath, such as was
+originally "The Hummums," in Covent Garden, before it became an hotel.
+
+There is a marvellous ghost story connected with this house, where
+died Parson Ford, who makes so conspicuous a figure in Hogarth's
+_Midnight Modern Conversation_. The narrative is thus given in
+Boswell's _Johnson_ by Croker:--
+
+"_Boswell._ Was there not a story of Parson Ford's ghost having
+appeared?
+
+"_Johnson._ Sir, it was believed. A waiter at the Hummums, in which
+house Ford died, had been absent for some time, and returned, not
+knowing that Ford was dead. Going down to the cellar, according to the
+story, he met him; going down again, he met him a second time. When
+he came up, he asked some people of the house what Ford could be doing
+there. They told him Ford was dead. The waiter took a fever, in which
+he lay for some time. When he recovered, he said he had a message to
+deliver to some woman from Ford; but he was not to tell what or to
+whom. He walked out; he was followed; but somewhere about St. Paul's
+they lost him. He came back and said he had delivered it, and the
+women exclaimed, 'Then we are all undone.' Dr. Pallet, who was not a
+credulous man, inquired into the truth of this story, and he said the
+evidence was irresistible. My wife went to the Hummums; (it is a place
+where people get themselves cupped.) I believe she went with intention
+to hear about this story of Ford. At first they were unwilling to tell
+her; but after they had talked to her, she came away satisfied that it
+was true. To be sure, the man had a fever; and this vision may have
+been the beginning of it. But if the message to the women, and their
+behaviour upon it, were true, as related, there was something
+supernatural. That rests upon his word, and there it remains."
+
+
+ORIGIN OF TAVERN SIGNS.
+
+The cognisances of many illustrious persons connected with the Middle
+Ages are still preserved in the signs attached to our taverns and
+inns. Thus the White Hart with the golden chain was the badge of King
+Richard II.; the Antelope was that of King Henry IV.; the Feathers was
+the cognisance of Henry VI.; and the White Swan was the device of
+Edward of Lancaster, his ill-fated heir slain at the battle of
+Tewkesbury.
+
+Before the Great Fire of London, in 1666, almost all the liveries of
+the great feudal lords were preserved at these houses of public
+resort. Many of their heraldic signs were then unfortunately lost: but
+the Bear and Ragged Staff, the ensign of the famed Warwick, still
+exists as a sign: while the Star of the Lords of Oxford, the
+brilliancy of which decided the fate of the battle of Barnet; the Lion
+of Norfolk, which shone so conspicuously on Bosworth field; the Sun of
+the ill-omened house of York, together with the Red and White Rose,
+either simply or conjointly, carry the historian and the antiquary
+back to a distant period, although now disguised in the gaudy
+colouring of a freshly-painted sign-board.
+
+The White Horse was the standard of the Saxons before and after their
+coming into England. It was a proper emblem of victory and triumph, as
+we read in Ovid and elsewhere. The White Horse is to this day the
+ensign of the county of Kent, as we see upon hop-pockets and bags; and
+throughout the county it is a favourite inn-sign.
+
+The Saracen's Head inn-sign originated in the age of the Crusades. By
+some it is thought to have been adopted in memory of the father of St.
+Thomas à Becket, who was a Saracen. Selden thus explains it: "Do not
+undervalue an enemy by whom you have been worsted. When our countrymen
+came home from fighting with the Saracens, and were beaten by them,
+they pictured them with huge, big, terrible faces (as you still see
+the sign of the Saracen's Head is), when in truth they were like other
+men. But this they did to save their own credit." Still more direct is
+the explanation in Richard the Crusader causing a Saracen's head to be
+served up to the ambassadors of Saladin. May it not also have some
+reference to the Saracen's Head of the Quintain, a military exercise
+antecedent to jousts and tournaments?
+
+The custom of placing a Bush at Tavern doors has already been noticed;
+we add a few notes:--In the preface to the _Law of Drinking_, keeping
+a public-house is called the trade of the ivy-bush: the bush was a
+sign so very general, that probably from thence arose the proverb
+"good wine needs no bush," or indication as to where it was sold. In
+_Good Newes and Bad Newes_, 1622, a host says:--
+
+     "I rather will take down my bush and sign
+     Than live by means of riotous expense."
+
+The ancient method of putting a bough of a tree upon anything, to
+signify that it was for disposal, is still exemplified by an old besom
+(or birch broom) being placed at the mast-head of a vessel that is
+intended for sale. In Dekker's _Wonderful Yeare_, 1603, is the passage
+"Spied a bush at the end of a pole, the ancient badge of a countrey
+ale-house." And in Harris's _Drunkard's Cup_, p. 299, "Nay, if the
+house be not with an ivie bush, let him have his tooles about him,
+nutmegs, rosemary, tobacco, with other the appurtenances, and he knows
+how of puddle ale to make a cup of English wine." From a passage in
+_Whimzies, or a new Cast of Characters_, 1631, it would seem that
+signs in alehouses succeeded birch poles.
+
+It is usual in some counties, particularly Staffordshire, to hang a
+bush at the door of an ale-house, or mug-house. Sir Thomas Browne
+considers that the human faces depicted on sign-boards, for the sun
+and moon, are relics of paganism, and that they originally meant
+Apollo and Diana. This has been noticed in Hudibras--
+
+     "Tell me but what's the nat'ral cause
+     Why on a sign no painter draws
+     The full moon ever, but the half."
+
+A Bell sign-stone may be seen on the house-front, No. 26, Great
+Knight-Rider-street: it bears the date 1668, and is boldly carved;
+whether it is of tavern or other trade it is hard to say: the house
+appears to be of the above date.
+
+The Bell, in Great Carter-lane, in this neighbourhood, has been taken
+down: it was an interesting place, for, hence, October 25, 1598,
+Richard Quiney addressed to his "loveing good ffrend and countryman,
+Mr. Wm. Schackespere," (then living in Southwark, near the
+Bear-garden), a letter for a loan of thirty pounds; which letter we
+have seen in the possession of Mr. R. Bell Wheler, at Stratford-upon-Avon:
+it is believed to be the only existing letter addressed to Shakspere.
+
+The Bull, Bishopsgate, is noteworthy; for the yard of this inn
+supplied a stage to our early actors, before James Burbadge and his
+fellows obtained a patent from Queen Elizabeth for erecting a
+permanent building for theatrical entertainments. Tarleton often
+played here. Anthony Bacon, the brother of Francis, lived in a house
+in Bishopsgate-street, not far from the Bull Inn, to the great concern
+of his mother, who not only dreaded that the plays and interludes
+acted at the Bull might corrupt his servants, but on her own son's
+account objected to the parish as being without a godly clergyman.
+
+Gerard's Hall, Basing-lane, had the fine Norman crypt of the ancient
+hall of the Sisars for its wine-cellar; besides the tutelar effigies
+of "Gerard the gyant," a fair specimen of a London sign, _temp._
+Charles II. Here also was shown the staff used by Gerard in the wars,
+and a ladder to ascend to the top of the staff; and in the
+neighbouring church of St. Mildred, Bread-street, hangs a huge
+tilting-helmet, said to have been worn by the said giant. The staff,
+Stow thinks, may rather have been used as a May-pole, and to stand in
+the hall decked with evergreens at Christmas; the ladder serving for
+decking the pole and hall-roof.
+
+Fosbroke says, that the Bell Savage is a strange corruption of the
+Queen of Sheba; the Bell Savage, of which the device was a savage man
+standing by a bell, is supposed to be derived from the French, Belle
+Sauvage, on account of a beautiful savage having been once shown
+there; by others it is considered, with more probability, to have been
+so named in compliment to some ancient landlady of the celebrated inn
+upon Ludgate-hill, whose surname was Savage, as in the Close-rolls of
+the thirty-first year of the reign of Henry VI. is an entry of a grant
+of that inn to "John Frensch, gentilman," and called "Savage's Ynne,"
+_alias_ the "Bell on the Hoof."
+
+The token of the house is--"HENRY YOVNG AT YE. An Indian woman
+holding an arrow and a bow.--Rx ON LVDGATE HILL. In the field, H. M.
+Y."
+
+"There is a tradition [Mr. Akerman writes] that the origin of this
+sign, and not only of the inn, but also of the name of the court in
+which it is situate, was derived from that of Isabella Savage, whose
+property they once were, and who conveyed them by deed to the Cutlers'
+Company. This, we may observe, is a mistake. The name of the person
+who left the Bell Savage to the Cutlers' Company was Craythorne, not
+Savage."
+
+In Flecknoe's _Ænigmatical Characters_, 1665, in alluding to "your
+fanatick reformers," he says, "as for the signs, they have pretty well
+begun the reformation already, changing the sign of the Salutation of
+the Angel and our Lady into the Shouldier and Citizen, and the
+Catherine Wheel into the Cat and Wheel, so that there only wants their
+making the Dragon to kill St. George, and the Devil to tweak St.
+Dunstan by the nose, to make the reformation compleat. Such ridiculous
+work they make of their reformation, and so zealous are they against
+all mirth and jollity, as they would pluck down the sign of the Cat
+and Fiddle, too, if it durst but play so loud as they might hear it."
+
+The sign In God is our Hope is still to be seen at a public-house on
+the western road between Cranford and Slough. Coryatt mentions the Ave
+Maria, with verses, as the sign of an alehouse abroad, and a street
+where all the signs on one side were of birds. The Swan with Two
+Nicks, or Necks, as it is commonly called, was so termed from the two
+nicks or marks, to make known that it was a swan of the Vintners'
+Company; the swans of that company having two semicircular pieces cut
+from the upper mandible of the swan, one on each side, which are
+called nicks. The origin of the Bolt-in-Tun is thus explained. The
+bolt was the arrow shot from a cross-bow, and the tun or barrel was
+used as the target, and in this device the bolt is painted sticking in
+the bunghole. It appears not unreasonable to conclude, that hitting
+the bung was as great an object in crossbow-shooting as it is to a
+member of a Toxophilite Club to strike the target in the bull's eye.
+The sign of the Three Loggerheads is two grotesque wooden heads, with
+the inscription "Here we three Loggerheads be," the reader being the
+third. The Honest Lawyer is depicted at a beershop at Stepney; the
+device is a lawyer with his head under his arm, to prevent his telling
+lies.
+
+The Lamb and Lark has reference to a well-known proverb that we should
+go to bed with the lamb and rise with the lark. The Eagle and Child,
+_vulgo_ Bird and Baby, is by some persons imagined to allude to
+Jupiter taking Ganymede; others suppose that it merely commemorates
+the fact of a child having been carried off by an eagle; but this sign
+is from the arms of the Derby family (eagle and child) who had a house
+at Lambeth, where is the Bird and Baby.
+
+The Green Man and Still should be a green man (or man who deals in
+_green herbs_) with a bundle of peppermint or pennyroyal under his
+arm, which he brings to be distilled.
+
+Upon the modern building of the Bull and Mouth has been conferred the
+more elegant name of the Queen's Hotel. Now the former is a corruption
+of Boulogne Mouth, and the sign was put up to commemorate the
+destruction of the French flotilla at the mouth of Boulogne harbour in
+the reign of Henry VIII. This absurd corruption has been perpetuated
+by a carving in stone of a bull and a human face with an enormous
+mouth. The Bull and Gate, palpably, has the like origin; as at the
+_Gate_ of Boulogne the treaty of capitulation to the English was
+signed.
+
+The Spread Eagle, which constitutes the arms of Austria and Russia,
+originated with Charlemagne, and was in England introduced out of
+compliment to some German potentate.
+
+The oddest sign we know is now called The Mischief, in Oxford-street,
+and our remembrance of this dates over half a century, when the street
+was called Oxford-road, then unpaved, is truly Hogarthian. It was at
+that time called the Man loaded with Mischief, _i.e._ a wife, two
+squalling brats, a monkey, a cat, a jackdaw, etc. The perpetrator of
+this libel on the other sex, we suppose, was some poor henpecked
+individual.[59]
+
+On the subject of sign combinations, a writer in _Notes and Queries_
+says:--"This subject has been taken up by a literary contemporary, and
+some ingenious but farfetched attempts at explanation have been made,
+deduced from languages the publican is not likely to have heard of.
+The following seem at least to be undoubtedly English: The Sun and
+Whalebone, Cock and Bell, Ram and Teazle, Cow and Snuffers, Crow and
+Horseshoe, Hoop and Pie,--_cum multis aliis_. I have some remembrance
+of a very simple solution of the cause of the incongruity, which was
+this: The lease being out of (say) the sign of The Ram, or the tenant
+had left for some cause, and gone to the sign of The Teazle; wishing
+to be known, and followed by as many of his old connexion as possible,
+and also to secure the new, he took his old sign with him, and set it
+up beside the other, and the house soon became known as The Ram and
+Teazle. After some time the signs required repainting or renewing, and
+as one board was more convenient than two, the 'emblems,' as poor Dick
+Tinto calls them, were depicted together, and hence rose the puzzle."
+
+There have been some strange guesses. Some have thought the Goat and
+Compasses to be a corruption of "God encompasseth us," but it has
+been much more directly traced as follows, by Sir Edmund Head, who has
+communicated the same to Mr. P. Cunningham: "At Cologne, in the church
+of Santa Maria in Capitolio, is a flat stone on the floor, professing
+to be the Grabstein der Brüder und Schwester eines ehrbaren Wein- und
+Fass-Ampts, Anno 1693; that is, I suppose, a vault belonging to the
+Wine Coopers' Company. The arms exhibit a shield with a pair of
+compasses, an axe, and a dray, or truck, with goats for supporters. In
+a country, like England, dealing so much at one time in Rhenish wine,
+a more likely origin for such a sign could hardly be imagined."
+
+The Pig in the Pound might formerly be seen towards the east end of
+Oxford-street, not far from "The Mischief."
+
+The Magpie and Horseshoe may be seen in Fetter-lane: the ominous
+import attached to the bird and the shoe may account for this
+association in the sign: we can imagine ready bibbers going to houses
+with this sign "for luck."
+
+The George, Snow-hill, is a good specimen of a carved sign-stone of--
+
+     "St. George that swing'd the dragon,
+     And sits on horseback at mine hoste's door."
+
+FOOTNOTE:
+
+[59] Communicated to the _Builder_ by Mr. Rhodes.
+
+
+
+
+INDEX
+
+TO THE FIRST VOLUME.
+
+
+     Alfred Club, the, 237.
+
+     Allen, King, his play, 287.
+
+     Almack's Assembly Rooms, 86-89.
+
+     Almack's, by Capt. Gronow, 316.
+
+     Almack's Club, 83-86.
+
+     Almack's Rooms, 88.
+
+     Anacreontic _Ad Poculum_, by Morris, 150.
+
+     Angling Club Anecdotes, 301.
+
+     Antiquarian Club, 306.
+
+     Army and Navy Club, 278.
+
+     Apollo Club, 10.
+
+     Arms for White's, 115.
+
+     Arnold and the Steaks, 145, 146.
+
+     Arthur's Club, 107.
+
+     Athenæum established, 212.
+
+     Athenæum Club, the, 241-247.
+
+     Athenæum Club-house described, 242, 243.
+
+
+     Barry's Reform Club-house, 267.
+
+     Barry's Travellers' Club-house, 233, 234.
+
+     Beef-steak Club, the, 123.
+
+     Beef-steak Club, Ivy-lane, 159.
+
+     Beef-steak Clubs, various, 158.
+
+     Beef-steak Society, History of the, 123-149.
+
+     Beef-steaks, Ward's Address to, 129.
+
+     Bell Tavern Beef-steak Club, 159.
+
+     Betting, extraordinary, at White's, 111, 116, 117.
+
+     Bibliomania, what is it?, 192.
+
+     Bickerstaffe and his Club, 64, 65.
+
+     Bishops and Judges at the Alfred, 239.
+
+     Blasphemous Clubs, 44.
+
+     Blue-stocking Club, at Mrs. Montague's, 199.
+
+     Blue-stocking Clubs, ancient, 198.
+
+     Bolland at the Steaks, 146.
+
+     Boodle's Club, 121.
+
+     Boodle's Club-house and Pictures, 122.
+
+     Bowl, silver, presented by the Steaks to Morris, 154.
+
+     Box of the Past Overseers' Society, Westminster, 193-196.
+
+     Brookes's Club, 19, 20, 22, 23, 89-102.
+
+     Brookes, the Club-house proprietor, 89, 90.
+
+     Brougham, Lord, at the Steaks, 146.
+
+     Brummel and Alderman Combe at Brookes's, 101, 102.
+
+     Brummel and Bligh at Watier's, 168.
+
+     Buchan, Dr., at the Chapter, 181.
+
+     Burke and Johnson at the Literary Club, 208.
+
+     Burke at the Robin Hood, 197.
+
+     Busby, Dr., at the Chapter, 184.
+
+     Byron and Dudley, Lords, at the Alfred, 208.
+
+
+     Calves' Head Club, 25-34.
+
+     Calves' Head Club Laureat, 30,
+
+     Calves' Head Club, Origin of, 27, 28, 32.
+
+     Canning, Mr., at the Clifford-street Club, 169-171.
+
+     Carlton Club, the, 273.
+
+     Carlton Club-house, new, 273.
+
+     Cavendish and the Royal Society Club, 79.
+
+     Celebrities of the Alfred, 238.
+
+     Celebrities of Brookes's, 90.
+
+     Celebrities of the Literary Club, 214, 215.
+
+     Celebrities of the Royal Naval Club, 231.
+
+     Celebrities of the Royal Society Club, 75, 76.
+
+     Celebrities at the Steaks, 132, 133.
+
+     Celebrities of Tom's Coffee-house Club, 162, 163.
+
+     Celebrities of White's, early, 110.
+
+     Chapter Coffee-house Club, 179.
+
+     Chatterton at the Chapter, 180.
+
+     Chess Clubs, 313.
+
+     Child's Coffee-house and the Royal Society Club, 66.
+
+     Churchill at the Steaks, 133.
+
+     Cibber, Colley, at White's, 112.
+
+     Civil Club in the City, 5.
+
+     Clark, Alderman, at the Essex Head, 204.
+
+     Clifford-street Club, the, 169.
+
+     Club defined by Johnson, 6.
+
+     Club, the term, 2, 4.
+
+     Clubs of the Ancients, 2.
+
+     Clubs, influences of, 270-272, 274.
+
+     Club Life experiences, 252, 253.
+
+     Clubs, Origin of, 1.
+
+     Clubs of 1814, by Capt. Gronow, 321.
+
+     Club System, advantages of, 241.
+
+     Clubs at the Thatched House, 318.
+
+     Coachmanship, anecdotes of, 293, 294.
+
+     Cobb and Old Walsh at the Steaks, 139.
+
+     Cocoa-tree Club, the, 81-83.
+
+     Conservative Club, 275.
+
+     Colman at the Literary Club, 213.
+
+     Colman at the Steaks, 135.
+
+     Commons of the Royal Society Club, 74.
+
+     Covent Garden Celebrities, 256, 257.
+
+     Covent Garden old Taverns, 159.
+
+     Covent Garden, by Thackeray, 255.
+
+     Covent Garden Theatre and the Steaks, 296.
+
+     Coventry Club, the, 305.
+
+     Coverley, Sir Roger, and Mohocks, 42.
+
+     Crockford's start in life, 281.
+
+     Crockford's Club, 281-286.
+
+     Crockford's fishmonger's-shop, at Temple Bar, 286.
+
+     Crown and Anchor Club, and Royal Society Club, 69.
+
+     Curran and Capt. Morris, 157.
+
+     Curran at the King of Clubs, 166, 167.
+
+     Curran and Lord Norbury, 167.
+
+
+     Daniel, G., of Canonbury, his list of Clubs, 177.
+
+     Darty's Ham-pies at the Kit-kat, 319.
+
+     Davies, Scrope, play of, 288.
+
+     Devil Tavern and Royal Society Club, 68.
+
+     Dibdin, Dr., and the Roxburghe Club, 192.
+
+     Dilettanti between 1770 and 1790, 226.
+
+     Dilettanti, their object and name, 224, 225.
+
+     Dilettanti Portraits, 228, 229.
+
+     Dilettanti Society, the, 222-230.
+
+     Dilettanti Society's Journeys, 223.
+
+     Dilettanti Society's Publications, 227.
+
+     Dinner, memorable, at the Royal Society Club, 78.
+
+     Dinners of the Roxburghe Club, 186-191.
+
+     Dinners of the Royal Society Club, 70, 71, 73, 81.
+
+     Dunning, Lord Ashburton at Brookes's, 98.
+
+
+     Eccentric Club, 173-178.
+
+     Eccentrics, the, 307.
+
+     Economy of the Athenæum Club, 244, 245.
+
+     Economy of Clubs, 248.
+
+     Epicurism at White's, 120, 121.
+
+     Erectheum Club, 305.
+
+     Essex Head Club, the, 202.
+
+     Estcourt, and the Beef-Steak Club, 123, 124, 125.
+
+     Everlasting Club, the, 173-175.
+
+
+     Faro at White's, 113.
+
+     Fielding, Sir John, on Street Clubs, 38.
+
+     "Fighting Fitzgerald" at Brookes's, 102-107.
+
+     Fines of the Dilettanti, 226.
+
+     Fire at White's Chocolate House, 109.
+
+     Foote, at Tom's Coffee-house Club, 162.
+
+     Fordyce and Gower, Dr., at the Chapter, 182.
+
+     Forster, Mr., his account of the Literary Club, 206.
+
+     Four-in-hand Club, the, 289-294.
+
+     Fox at Brookes's, 93.
+
+     Fox's love of Play, 93, 94, 95, 96, 97.
+
+     Fox's play at White's, 114, 115.
+
+     Francis, Sir Philip, at Brookes's, 92.
+
+     Friday-Street Club, 3.
+
+
+     Gaming at Almack's, 84, 85.
+
+     Gaming at White's, 113.
+
+     Gaming-Houses kept by Ladies, 323.
+
+     Garrick and the Literary Club, 210.
+
+     Garrick Club-house, New, 258.
+
+     Garth and Steele, at the Kit-kat Club, 61.
+
+     Gibbon at Boodle's, 122.
+
+     Gibbon at the Cocoa-tree, 81, 82.
+
+     Giffard on the Mermaid Club, 9.
+
+     Gin Punch at the Garrick, 263.
+
+     Globe Tavern Clubs, 219, 220.
+
+     Glover the Poet, at White's, 111.
+
+     "Golden Ball," the, 287.
+
+     Golden Fleece Club, Cornhill, 172.
+
+     Goldsmith and Annet, at the Robin Hood, 197, 198.
+
+     Goldsmith, Beauclerk, and Langton, at the Literary Club, 209, 210.
+
+     Goldsmith's Clubs, 219.
+
+     Goldsmith at the Crown, Islington, 221.
+
+     Goosetree's, in Pall Mall, 85.
+
+     Gore, Mrs., on Clubs, 248.
+
+     Gourmands at Crockford's, 285.
+
+     Green Ribbon Club, 35, 36.
+
+     Gridiron of the Steaks Society, 140.
+
+     Gridiron, Silver, and the Steaks, 143.
+
+     Grub-street account of the Calves' Head Club, 29.
+
+     Guards' Club, the, 278.
+
+
+     Harrington's _Oceana_, 15.
+
+     Haslewood's account of the Roxburghe Club Dinners, 190.
+
+     Hawkins and Burke at the Literary Club, 207, 208.
+
+     Hazard at the Cocoa-tree, 82.
+
+     Hell-fire Club, 44.
+
+     Hill, Sir John, and the Royal Society, 76.
+
+     Hill, Thomas, at the Garrick, 263, 264, 265.
+
+     Hippisley, Sir John, at the Steaks, 143, 144.
+
+     Hoadly, Bishop, at the Kit-kat Club, 61, 62.
+
+     Hoax, Calves' Head Club, 34.
+
+     Hood, Thomas, on Clubs, 249.
+
+     Hook, Theodore, at the Athenæum, 245, 246, 247.
+
+     Hook, Theodore, at Crockford's, 286.
+
+     Hook, Theodore, at the Garrick, 263.
+
+     Hoyle's Treatise on Whist, 295.
+
+
+     Ionian Antiquities, Walpole on, 224.
+
+     Ivy-lane Club, the, 200.
+
+
+     Jacob and Waithman, Aldermen, at the Chapter, 185.
+
+     Jacobite Club, 178.
+
+     Jacobite and Loyal Mobs, 49.
+
+     Jerrold, Douglas, at his Clubs, 308-313.
+
+     Johnson Club, the, 216.
+
+     Johnson, Dr., and the Ivy-lane Club, 200.
+
+     Johnson, Dr., and Boswell at the Essex Head, 203, 204.
+
+     Johnson, Dr., founds the Literary Club, 205.
+
+     Johnson, Dr., last at the Literary Club, 213.
+
+     Jonson, Ben, his Club, 11, 13, 14.
+
+
+     Kemble, John, at the Steaks, 152.
+
+     King Club and Club of Kings, 35.
+
+     King of Clubs, the, 165-168.
+
+     King's Head Club, 35.
+
+     Kit-kat Club, 55-63.
+
+     Kit-kat, epigram on, 58.
+
+     Kit-kat, origin of, 56.
+
+     Kit-kat Pictures, 60.
+
+
+     Ladies' Club at Almack's, 87.
+
+     Ladies' Club, the farce, 251.
+
+     Lambert and the Beef-steak Society, 131.
+
+     Lawyers' Club, the, 175.
+
+     Lennox celebration at the Devil Tavern, 201.
+
+     Lewis, the bookseller, Covent Garden, 160.
+
+     Library of the Athenæum, 243.
+
+     "Life's a Fable," by Morris, 155.
+
+     Linley, William, at the Steaks, 137.
+
+     Literary Club, the, 204-218.
+
+     Literary Club dates, 205, 206.
+
+     Little Club, the, 176.
+
+     London Club Architecture, 234, 235.
+
+     Long Acre Mug-house Club, 45.
+
+     Loyal Society Club, 48, 49, 50.
+
+     Lyceum Theatre, the Steaks, at, 145.
+
+     Lying Club, Westminster, 173.
+
+     Lynedoch, Lord, at the United Service, 236.
+
+
+     Macaulay, Lord, his pictures of the Literary Club, 217.
+
+     Mackreth, and Arthur's Club, 107, 108.
+
+     M'Clean, the highwayman, at White's, 118.
+
+     March Club, 18.
+
+     Mathews, Charles, his collection of Pictures, 258, 261, 262.
+
+     Mermaid Club, 4, 8, 9.
+
+     Middlesex, Lord, and Calves' Head Club, 32.
+
+     Mitre Tavern and Royal Society Club, 67, 68.
+
+     Mohocks, history of the, 38-44.
+
+     Mohun, Lord, at the Kit-kat Club, 59, 60.
+
+     Morris, Capt., Bard of the Beef-steak Society, 142, 149, 157.
+
+     Morris's Farewell to the Steaks, 153.
+
+     Morris making Punch at the Steaks, 156, 157.
+
+     Morris, recollections of, 156.
+
+     Morris's _Songs_, Political and Convivial, 150.
+
+     Mountford, Lord, tragic end of, 113.
+
+     Mug-house Club, history of, 45-55.
+
+     Mug-house Riots, 52.
+
+     Mug-houses in London, 47.
+
+     Mug-house Politics, 48.
+
+     Mug-house Songs, 50, 55.
+
+     Mug-houses suppressed, 54.
+
+     Mulberry Club, the, 309.
+
+     Murphy and Kemble at the Steaks, 142.
+
+
+     Norfolk, Duke of, and Capt. Morris, 152.
+
+     Norfolk, Duke of, at the Steaks, 142.
+
+     Noviomagians, the, 306.
+
+
+     October Club, 17.
+
+     One of a Trade Club, 5.
+
+     Onslow, Lord, the celebrated whip, 291.
+
+     Onslow, Tommy, epigram on, 290.
+
+     Oriental Club, the, 239, 240.
+
+     Oxford and Cambridge Club, 277.
+
+
+     P. P., Clerk of the Parish, 24.
+
+     Pall Mall Tavern Clubs, 7.
+
+     Palmerston, Lord, at the Reform, 269.
+
+     Parthenon Club, 305.
+
+     Parliamentary Clubs, 17.
+
+     Past Overseers Society, Westminster, 193-196.
+
+     Peterborough, Lord, and the Beef-steak Society, 130.
+
+     Phillidor at St. James's Chess Club, 314.
+
+     Phillips and Chalmers, at the Chapter, 183.
+
+     Pictures at the United Service, 237.
+
+     Pictures at the Garrick Club, 258.
+
+     Pitt and Wilberforce at Goosetree's, 87.
+
+     Political Clubs, Early, 15.
+
+     Pontack's, Royal Society Club at, 68.
+
+     Pope-burning Processions, 37.
+
+     Presents to the Royal Society Club, 73.
+
+     Pretender, the, and Cocoa-tree Chocolate-house, 81.
+
+     Prince's Club Racquet Courts, 298-301.
+
+     Prince of Wales at Brookes's, 91.
+
+     Prince of Wales at the Steaks, 141.
+
+
+     Queen's Arms Club, St. Paul's Churchyard, 202.
+
+
+     Racquet Courts, Prince's Club, 298-301.
+
+     Read's Mug-house, Salisbury-square, 52, 53, 54.
+
+     Red Lions, the, 303.
+
+     Reform Club, the, 266-272.
+
+     Rich and the Beef-steak Society, 129.
+
+     Richards, Jack, at the Steaks, 136.
+
+     Rigby at White's, 119.
+
+     Robinson, "Long Sir Thomas," 161.
+
+     Robin Hood, the, in Essex-street, 196.
+
+     Rota Club, 4, 5, 15, 16.
+
+     Roxburghe Club Dinners, the, 186-193.
+
+     _Roxburghe Revels_, the, 187.
+
+     Royal Society Club, 65-81.
+
+     Royal Naval Club, 230.
+
+     Rumbold at White's, 119.
+
+     Rump-steak, or Liberty Club, 159.
+
+
+     St. James's Palace Clock, anecdote of, 276.
+
+     St. Leger at White's, 118.
+
+     Salisbury-square Mug-house, 47, 52, 53, 54.
+
+     Saturday Club, 19.
+
+     Scowrers, the, 39, 41.
+
+     Scriblerus Club, 23.
+
+     Sealed Knot, 16.
+
+     Secret History of the Calves' Head Club, 25, 26, 27.
+
+     Selwyn's account of Sheridan at Brookes's, 100.
+
+     Selwyn at White's, 117.
+
+     Sharp, Richard, at the King of Clubs, 165.
+
+     Sheridan and Whitbread at Brookes's, 99, 91, 92, 101.
+
+     Shilling Whist Club at the Devil Tavern, 219.
+
+     Shire-lane and the Kit-kat Club, 57.
+
+     Shire-lane and the Trumpet Tavern, 63, 65.
+
+     Short Whist, its origin, 298.
+
+     Smith, Albert, at the Garrick, 266.
+
+     Smith, Bobus, at the King of Clubs, 165.
+
+     Smith, James, at the Union, 254.
+
+     Smyth, Admiral, his History of the Royal Society Club, 79, 80.
+
+     Soyer at the Reform Club, 269.
+
+     Spectator Clubs, 7, 173.
+
+     _Spectator_ on the Mohocks, 43.
+
+     Steaks, early Members of, 147, 148.
+
+     Steaks' table-linen, and plate, 149.
+
+     Steele's tribute to Estcourt, 125.
+
+     Stephens, Alexander, at the Chapter, 180.
+
+     Stevenson, Rowland, at the Steaks, 140.
+
+     Stewart, Admiral, and Fighting Fitzgerald, 102.
+
+     Stillingfleet and the Blue-stocking Club, 199, 200.
+
+     Street Clubs, 38.
+
+     Sublime Society of Steaks, 129.
+
+     Sweaters and Tumblers, 40.
+
+     Swift at the Brothers Club, 20.
+
+     Swift and the Mohocks, 41.
+
+     Swift at the October, 8.
+
+     Swift's account of White's, 110, 111.
+
+
+     Talleyrand at the Travellers', 233.
+
+     Tatler's Club, in Shire-lane, 63-65.
+
+     Temperance Corner at the Athenæum, 247.
+
+     Tennis Courts in London, 299.
+
+     Thatched House, Dilettanti at, 228-230.
+
+     Thursday's Club of Royal Philosophers, 67.
+
+     Toasting-glasses, Verses written on, 58, 59.
+
+     Tom's Coffee-house, Club at, 159-164.
+
+     Tonson, Jacob, defended, 62.
+
+     Tonson, Jacob, at Kit-kat Club, 57.
+
+     Toasts at the Roxburghe Club Dinners, 191.
+
+     Travellers' Club, the, 233-236.
+
+     Treason Clubs, 6.
+
+     Turtle and Venison at the Royal Society Club, 70, 71.
+
+     Twaddlers, the, in Shire-lane, 63-64.
+
+
+     Ude at Crockford's, 284.
+
+     United Service Club, the, 236.
+
+     United Service Club, Junior, 280.
+
+     University Club, the, 247, 253.
+
+
+     Walker, Mr., his account of the Athenæum, 243.
+
+     Ward's account of the Beef-steaks, 126, 127, 128.
+
+     Ward, and Calves' Head Club, 25, 31.
+
+     Ward's account of the Kit-kat Club, 56, 128.
+
+     Ward's account of the Royal Society Club, 76.
+
+     Ward's _Secret History of Clubs_, 172.
+
+     Watier's Club, 168.
+
+     Watier's Club, by Capt. Gronow, 320.
+
+     Welcome, Ben Jonson's, 11, 12.
+
+     Wednesday Club, at the Globe, 6, 220.
+
+     Wet Paper Club, the, 180.
+
+     Whigs and Kit-kat Club, 55.
+
+     Whist Clubs, 295.
+
+     Whist, Laws of, 296.
+
+     White's Chocolate-house, 108, 109.
+
+     White's Club, 108-121.
+
+     White's and the _Tatler_, 110.
+
+     White's early Rules of, 112, 113.
+
+     White's present Club-house, 120.
+
+     Whittington Club, 315.
+
+     Wilberforce at Brookes's, 91.
+
+     Wilkes at the Steaks, 134.
+
+     Willis's Rooms, 81.
+
+     Wilson, Dick, at the Steaks, 138.
+
+     Wittinagemot of the Chapter Coffee-house, 179-186.
+
+     Woffington, Peg, and Beef-steak Club, 158.
+
+     World, the, 7.
+
+     Wyndham, Mr., Character of, 232.
+
+     Wyndham Club, the, 232.
+
+
+
+
+INDEX
+
+TO THE SECOND VOLUME.
+
+
+Coffee-houses.
+
+
+     Addison at Button's, 64, 73.
+
+     Artists' Meeting, at the Turks' Head, 94.
+
+     Artists at Slaughter's Coffee-house, 99.
+
+
+     Baker's Coffee-house, 30.
+
+     Barrowby, Dr., at the Bedford, 78, 79.
+
+     Bedford Coffee-house, 76-82.
+
+     British Coffee-house and the Scots, 56.
+
+     Broadside against Coffee, 4.
+
+     Button's Coffee-house, 64-73.
+
+
+     Celebrities at Button's, 71.
+
+     Chapter Coffee-house described by Mrs. Gaskell, 89.
+
+     Charles the Second's Wig, worn by Suett, 103.
+
+     Child's Coffee-house, 90.
+
+     Chocolate-houses and Coffee-houses, 1714, 35.
+
+     Churchill's quarrel with Hogarth, 80.
+
+     Cibber, Colley, at Will's, 63.
+
+     Club of Six Members, 87.
+
+     Coffee and Canary compared, 16.
+
+     Coffee, earliest mention of, 1.
+
+     Coffee first sold in London, 2.
+
+     Coffee-houses, early, 1.
+
+     Coffee-houses, 18th century, 31.
+
+     Coffee-house Politics, 41.
+
+     Coffee-house sharpers, 1776, 42.
+
+     Coffee-houses in 1714, 35.
+
+     Conversation Picture of Old Slaughter's, 104.
+
+     Covent Garden Piazza in 1634, 81, 82.
+
+     Curiosities, Saltero's, at Chelsea, 46, 47.
+
+
+     Dick's Coffee-house, 19.
+
+     Dryden at Will's, 57, 60.
+
+
+     Farr and the Rainbow Coffee-house, 15.
+
+     Foote at the Bedford, 78.
+
+     Foote at the Grecian, 105.
+
+     Fulwood's Rents, Holborn, 96.
+
+
+     Garraway's Coffee-house, 7-11.
+
+     Garrick at the Bedford, 80.
+
+     Garrick at Tom's, 75.
+
+     George's Coffee-house, 107.
+
+     Giles's and Jenny Man's Coffee-houses, 40.
+
+     Goldsmith at the Chapter, 90.
+
+     Goldsmith at the Grecian, 106.
+
+     Goldsmith's _Retaliation_ and the St. James's, 52-54.
+
+     Gray's Inn Walks described by Ward, 97.
+
+     Grecian Coffee-house, 105.
+
+     _Guardian_ Lion's Head, 65-68.
+
+
+     Haydon and Wilkie, anecdotes of, 100.
+
+     Hazard Club, painted by Hogarth, 86.
+
+     Hogarth designs Button's Lion's Head, 68.
+
+     Hogarth's drawings from Button's, 71.
+
+
+     Inchbald, Mrs., in Russell-street, Covent Garden, 72, 73.
+
+     _Inspector_ at the Bedford, 76.
+
+
+     Jerusalem Coffee-house, 30.
+
+     Jonathan's Coffee-house, 11-13.
+
+     Julian at Will's, 59.
+
+
+     King, Moll, some account of, 85, 86.
+
+     King, Tom, his Coffee-house, 84.
+
+
+     Laroon, Capt., and King's Coffee-house, 86, 87.
+
+     Lion's Head at Button's, 65-68.
+
+     Lloyd's Coffee-house, Royal Exchange, 24.
+
+     Lloyd's Members in verse, 28.
+
+     Lloyd's Subscription Rooms, 26.
+
+     Lloyd's, _temp._ Charles II., a Song, 23.
+
+     Lockier, Dean, at Will's, 57.
+
+     London Coffee-house and Punch-house, 91.
+
+
+     Macklin's Coffee-house Oratory, 82-84.
+
+     Macklin and Foote quarrel, 83.
+
+     Maclaine, the highwayman, at Button's, 71.
+
+     Man's Coffee-house, 33.
+
+     Murphy at George's, 108.
+
+     Murphy and Cibber at Tom's, 75.
+
+
+     Nando's Coffee-house, 18.
+
+
+     Parry the Welsh Harper, 102.
+
+     Pasqua Rosee's Coffee-house, 2.
+
+     Peele's Coffee-house, 109.
+
+     Pepys's first Cup of Tea, 94.
+
+     Pepys at Will's, 59.
+
+     Percy Coffee-house, and _Percy Anecdotes_, 108.
+
+     Philips, Ambrose, at Button's, 69.
+
+     Piazza Coffee-house, 87.
+
+     Pope on Coffee, 63.
+
+     Pope cudgelled in Rose-alley, 60, 62.
+
+     Pope at Will's, 60.
+
+     Prince's Council Chamber in Fleet-street, 19.
+
+     Prior and Swift at the Smyrna, 49
+
+
+     Rainbow Coffee-house, Fleet-street, 14-18.
+
+     Richard's Coffee-house, 20.
+
+     Rod hung up at Button's, 69, 70.
+
+
+     St. James's Coffee-house, 39, 50-55.
+
+     St. Martin's-lane, Artists in, 100.
+
+     Sail-cloth Permits, 11.
+
+     Sale by the Candle at Garraway's, 7.
+
+     Saloop Houses, 48.
+
+     Saltero's Coffee-house and Museum, at Chelsea, 44-48.
+
+     Scene at Jonathan's, 12.
+
+     Serle's Coffee-house, 104.
+
+     Shenstone at George's, 107.
+
+     Sheridan and Kemble at the Piazza, 87.
+
+     Slaughter's Coffee-house, 99-104.
+
+     Smyrna Coffee-house, 49.
+
+     South Sea Scheme, 8.
+
+     _Spectator_, Coffee-houses described in, 39.
+
+     _Spectator_ at Lloyd's, 25.
+
+     _Spectator_ at Squire's, 97.
+
+     _Spectator_ at Will's, 61.
+
+     Squire's Coffee-house, Fulwood's Rents, 96.
+
+     Swift at Button's, 73.
+
+     Swift at the St. James's, 51.
+
+     Swift and the wits at Will's, 61.
+
+
+     Tea, early sale of, 94, 95.
+
+     Tea first sold at Garway's, 6.
+
+     Thurlow at Nando's, 18.
+
+     Tiger Roach at the Bedford, 77.
+
+     Token of the Rainbow, 15.
+
+     Tom's Coffee-house, Cornhill, 75.
+
+     Tom's Coffee-house, Devereux-court, 107.
+
+     Tottel's Printing Office, 21.
+
+     Turk's Head Coffee-house, Change-alley, 93.
+
+     Turk's Head Coffee-house, Gerard-street, 94.
+
+     Turk's Head Coffee-house, Strand, 94.
+
+     Turk's Head Coffee-house, Westminster, 96.
+
+
+     Ward's account of early Coffee-houses, 32.
+
+     Ward's Punch-house, Fulwood's Rents, 98.
+
+     Ware, the architect, at Slaughter's, 101.
+
+     Will's Coffee-house, 56-64.
+
+     Will's Coffee-house, Lincoln's Inn, 104.
+
+     Woodward at the Bedford, 81.
+
+
+Taverns.
+
+     Adam and Eve, Kensington-road, 244.
+
+     African Tavern, St. Michael's Alley, 157.
+
+     Aikin, Miss, her defence of Addison, 243.
+
+     Albion Tavern, Aldersgate-street, 283.
+
+     Aldersgate Taverns, 147-149.
+
+     Apollo Chamber at the Devil Tavern, 164.
+
+     Apollo Sociable Rules, 165.
+
+     Apple-tree, Topham at the, 234.
+
+
+     Bagnigge Wells Tavern, 227.
+
+     Bayswater Taverns, 243.
+
+     Bear at the Bridge-foot Tavern, 122.
+
+     Bedford Head, Covent Garden, 197.
+
+     Beefsteak Society, 286.
+
+     Bellamy's Kitchen, 208.
+
+     Bermondsey Spa, 262.
+
+     Betty's Fruit-shop, St. James's-street, 219.
+
+     Black Jack, or Jump, Clare Market, 185.
+
+     Blackwall and Greenwich Whitebait Taverns, 267-269.
+
+     Boar's Head Tavern, Eastcheap, 124-128.
+
+     Boar's Head waiters, 114.
+
+     Boar's Head, Southwark, 126.
+
+     Brasbridge the Silversmith, at the Globe, 162.
+
+     Brompton Taverns, 249.
+
+     Brummel and the Rummer Tavern, 203.
+
+     Bush, the, Aldersgate-street, 147-149.
+
+     Byron, Lord, and Mr. Chaworth, Duel between, 211.
+
+
+     Canary House in the Strand, 180.
+
+     Canonbury Tavern, 228.
+
+     Castle Tavern, Holborn, 234.
+
+     Centlivre, Mrs., anecdote of, 205.
+
+     Chairmen, the Two, 220.
+
+     Chatterton and Marylebone Gardens, 241.
+
+     Cider Cellar, the, 199.
+
+     Clare Market Taverns, 183.
+
+     Clarendon Hotel, the, 278.
+
+     Clubs at the Queen's Arms, 145.
+
+     Coal-hole Tavern, Fountain-court, 182.
+
+     Cock Tavern, Bow-street, 187.
+
+     Cock Tavern, Fleet-street, 170.
+
+     Cock Tavern, Threadneedle-street, 133.
+
+     Coffee-house Canary-bird, 229.
+
+     Coleridge and Lamb, at the Salutation and Cat, 143.
+
+     Colledge, Stephen, and the Hercules Pillars, 172.
+
+     Constitution Tavern, Covent Garden, 199.
+
+     Copenhagen House Tavern, 210.
+
+     Cornelys, Mrs., last of, 252.
+
+     Coventry Act, origin of the, 188.
+
+     Craven Head Tavern, Drury-lane, 185.
+
+     Craven House, Drury-lane, 186.
+
+     Cremorne Tavern and Gardens, 257.
+
+     Cricket at White Conduit House, 225.
+
+     Crown, the, Aldersgate-street, 147.
+
+     Crown Tavern, Threadneedle-street, 134.
+
+     Crown and Anchor Tavern, Strand, 179.
+
+     Cumberland and Cuper's Gardens, 261.
+
+
+     Dagger in Cheapside, 112.
+
+     Devil Tavern, Fleet-street, 162-169.
+
+     Devil Tavern, Views of, 168.
+
+     Devil Tavern Token, rare, 169.
+
+     Dog and Duck, St. George's Fields, 262.
+
+     Dolly's, Paternoster-row, 146.
+
+     Drawers and tapsters, waiters, and barmaids, 121.
+
+     Dryden and Pepys at the Mulberry Garden, 258.
+
+     Duke's Head, Islington, 225.
+
+     D'Urfey's Songs of the Rose, 193.
+
+
+     Elephant Tavern, Fenchurch-street, 156.
+
+     Evans's, Covent Garden, 194.
+
+
+     Feathers Tavern, Grosvenor-road, 253.
+
+     Fish Dinner carte at Blackwall or Greenwich, 272.
+
+     Fitzgerald at Freemasons' Hall, 281.
+
+     Fives at Copenhagen House, 231.
+
+     Fleece, Covent Garden, 196.
+
+     Fountain Tavern, Strand, 181.
+
+     Fox and Bull, Knightsbridge, 250.
+
+     Freemasons' Hall, 266.
+
+     Freemasons' Lodges, 263.
+
+     Freemasons' Lodges in Queen Anne's reign, 265.
+
+     Freemasons' Tavern, 280.
+
+     French Wine-trade in 1154, 111.
+
+
+     Globe Tavern, Fleet-street, 161.
+
+     Golden Cross Sign, 220.
+
+     Goldsmith at the Boar's Head, 127.
+
+     Goldsmith at the Globe, 161.
+
+     Goose and Gridiron, 263, 265.
+
+     Grave Maurice Taverns, 159, 160.
+
+     Green Man Tavern, 238.
+
+
+     Hales, the giant, landlord of the Craven Head, 186.
+
+     "Heaven" and "Hell" Taverns, 206.
+
+     Hercules and Apollo Gardens, 262.
+
+     Hercules' Pillars Taverns, 171.
+
+     Hercules' Pillars, Hyde Park corner, 173.
+
+     Heycock's Ordinary, Temple Bar, 178.
+
+     Highbury Barn Tavern, 228.
+
+     Hole-in-the-Wall, Chandos-street, 174.
+
+     Hole-in-the-Wall, St. Martin's, 174.
+
+     Hole-in-the-Wall Taverns, 173.
+
+     Hummums, Covent Garden, 295.
+
+     Hyde Park Corner Taverns, 173.
+
+
+     Islington Taverns, 224.
+
+
+     Jackers, the Society of, 185.
+
+     Jerusalem Taverns, Clerkenwell, 150-152.
+
+     Jenny's Whim Tavern, 253, 254.
+
+     Jerusalem Tavern, Clerkenwell Green, 151.
+
+     Jew's Harp Tavern, 236.
+
+     Joe Miller, his Grave, 184, 185.
+
+
+     Kent's St. Cecilia picture, 180.
+
+     Kensington Taverns, 242.
+
+     Kentish Town Taverns, 239.
+
+     Kilburn Wells, 242.
+
+     King's Head Tavern, Fenchurch-street, 155.
+
+     King's Head Tavern, Poultry, 135-141.
+
+     Knightsbridge Taverns, 249.
+
+     Knightsbridge Grove Tavern, 252.
+
+
+     Leveridge's Songs, 198.
+
+     Locket's Tavern, 206.
+
+     London Stone Tavern, 148.
+
+     London Tavern, the, 276.
+
+     Lovegrove's, dinner at, 275.
+
+     Lowe's Hotel, 195.
+
+     Lydgate's Ballad on Taverns, 113.
+
+
+     Mathematical Society, Spitalfields, 160.
+
+     Marylebone Gardens, account of, 240, 241.
+
+     Marylebone Taverns, 236.
+
+     Mermaid Taverns, three, 124.
+
+     Ministerial Fish Dinner, origin of, 270.
+
+     Mitre, Dr. Johnson and his friends at, 176.
+
+     Mitre Painted Room, 154.
+
+     Mitre Tavern, Fenchurch-street, 154.
+
+     Mitre Tavern, Fleet-street, 175.
+
+     Mitre Tavern, Wood-street, 141.
+
+     Molly Mogg of the Rose, 193.
+
+     Mother Redcap Tavern, 239.
+
+     Mourning Bush Tavern, Aldersgate, 147-149.
+
+     Mourning Crown Tavern and Taylor, the Water-poet, 150.
+
+     Mulberry Garden, the, 257.
+
+     Mull Sack at the Devil Tavern, 163.
+
+     Myddelton's Head Tavern, 228.
+
+
+     Nag's Head Tavern, Cheapside, 293.
+
+
+     Offley's, Henrietta-street, 201.
+
+     Old Swan Tavern, Thames-street, 132.
+
+     One Tun Tavern, Jermyn-street, 224.
+
+     Onslow, Speaker, at the Jew's Harp, 237.
+
+     Oxford Kate, of the Cock Tavern, 187.
+
+
+     Paddington Taverns, 241.
+
+     Paintings at the Elephant, Fenchurch-street, 156.
+
+     Palsgrave Head Tavern, Temple Bar, 178.
+
+     Panton, Col., the gamester, 222.
+
+     Paul Pindar's Head Tavern, Bishopsgate, 153.
+
+     Pepys at the Cock Tavern, 170.
+
+     Pepys at the Hercules' Pillars, 172.
+
+     Piccadilly Hall, 221.
+
+     Piccadilly Inns and Taverns, 221.
+
+     Pimlico Taverns, 259.
+
+     Politics at the Crown and Anchor, 180.
+
+     Pontack's, Abchurch-lane, 130.
+
+     Pope's Head, Cornhill, 113, 131.
+
+     Porson at the Cider Cellar, 200.
+
+     Porson taken ill at the African, 157.
+
+     Portraits, Theatrical, 196.
+
+     Prince of Wales an Odd Fellow, 253.
+
+     Purgatory Tavern, 207.
+
+
+     Queen's Arms Tavern, St. Paul's Churchyard, 145.
+
+     Queen's Head, Islington, 226.
+
+     Queen's Head Tavern, Bow-street, 188.
+
+
+     Ranelagh Gardens described, 256.
+
+     Relics of the Boar's Head, 125.
+
+     Robin Hood Tavern, Chiswell-street, 129.
+
+     Rose Tavern and Drury-lane Theatre, 193.
+
+     Rose Tavern, Covent Garden, 192.
+
+     Rose Tavern, Marylebone, 239.
+
+     Rose Tavern, Poultry, 120, 135-141.
+
+     Rose Tavern, Tower-street, 292.
+
+     Royal Academy Club, 289.
+
+     Royal Naval Club, 218.
+
+     Rummer Tavern, Charing Cross, 202.
+
+     "Running Footman," May Fair, 219.
+
+
+     Sadler's Wells, 228.
+
+     St. John's Gate Tavern, 152.
+
+     St. John's Gate, Johnson at, 151.
+
+     Sala, Mr., his account of Soyer's Symposium, 245.
+
+     Salutation Taverns, 144.
+
+     Salutation and Cat, Newgate-street, 142.
+
+     Salutation, Tavistock-street, 197.
+
+     Shakspeare Tavern, Covent Garden, 189.
+
+     Shaver's Hall, Haymarket, 223.
+
+     Shepherd and his Flock Club, Clare Market, 184.
+
+     Ship Tavern, (Drake,) Temple Bar, 177.
+
+     Shuter, and his tavern places, 191.
+
+     Sign-boards, disfiguring, an old frolic, 177.
+
+     Southwark Tavern Tokens, 263.
+
+     Soyer's Symposium, Gore House, 245.
+
+     Spring Garden Taverns, 205.
+
+     Spring's Tavern, Holborn, 235.
+
+     Spring Garden, Knightsbridge, 251.
+
+     Star Dining-room, 195.
+
+     Star and Garter Tavern, Pall Mall, 211.
+
+     Stolen Marriages at Knightsbridge, 250.
+
+     St. James's Hall, 284.
+
+     Sugar and Sack, 117.
+
+     Swift at the Devil Tavern, 168.
+
+
+     Tavern, characterized by Bishop Earle, 118.
+
+     Tavern Life of Sir Richard Steele, 182.
+
+     Tavern Signs, Origin of, 296-304.
+
+     Taverns of Old London, 110-122.
+
+     Taverns in 1608 and 1710, 116.
+
+     Taverns, _temp._ Edward VI., 114.
+
+     Taverns, _temp._ Elizabeth, 115.
+
+     Taverns destroyed by fire, 290.
+
+     Thatched House Tavern, St. James's-street, 217.
+
+     Theatrical Taverns, 285.
+
+     Three Cranes Tavern, Poultry, 141.
+
+     Three Cranes in the Vintry, 112, 128.
+
+     Tom Brown on Taverns, 121, 122.
+
+     Topham, the Strong Man, his Taverns, 225, 232, 233.
+
+     Turtle at the London Tavern, 273.
+
+     Tzar of Muscovy's Head, 291.
+
+
+     Vauxhall Gardens, last of, 261.
+
+     Vintner, the, by Massinger, 119.
+
+
+     Wadlows, hosts of the Devil Tavern, 167, 168.
+
+     White Conduit House, 226, 227.
+
+     White Hart Tavern, Bishopsgate Without, 152.
+
+     Whitebait Taverns, 267-269.
+
+     White Horse, Kensington, 243.
+
+     White's Club, 287.
+
+     Win-hous, Saxon, 112.
+
+     Wines by old measure, 151.
+
+
+     Young Devil Tavern, 169.
+
+
+THE END.
+
+
+     JOHN EDWARD TAYLOR, PRINTER,
+     LITTLE QUEEN STREET, LINCOLN'S INN FIELDS.
+
+
+
+
+
+
+End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Club Life of London, Volume II (of 2), by 
+John Timbs
+
+*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 41516 ***