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+*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 41451 ***
+
+  THE SPELL OF THE
+  HAWAIIAN ISLANDS AND
+  THE PHILIPPINES
+
+
+
+
+  THE SPELL SERIES
+
+  _Each volume with one or more colored plates
+  and many illustrations from original drawings
+  or special photographs. Octavo, decorative
+  cover, gilt top, boxed._
+
+  _Per volume, net $2.50; carriage paid $2.70_
+
+
+  BY ISABEL ANDERSON
+    THE SPELL OF BELGIUM
+    THE SPELL OF JAPAN
+    THE SPELL OF THE HAWAIIAN ISLANDS AND THE PHILIPPINES
+
+  BY CAROLINE ATWATER MASON
+    THE SPELL OF ITALY
+    THE SPELL OF SOUTHERN SHORES
+    THE SPELL OF FRANCE
+
+  BY ARCHIE BELL
+    THE SPELL OF CHINA
+    THE SPELL OF EGYPT
+    THE SPELL OF THE HOLY LAND
+
+  BY KEITH CLARK
+    THE SPELL OF SPAIN
+    THE SPELL OF SCOTLAND
+
+  BY W. D. MCCRACKAN
+    THE SPELL OF TYROL
+    THE SPELL OF THE ITALIAN LAKES
+
+  BY EDWARD NEVILLE VOSE
+    THE SPELL OF FLANDERS
+
+  BY BURTON E. STEVENSON
+    THE SPELL OF HOLLAND
+
+  BY JULIA DE W. ADDISON
+    THE SPELL OF ENGLAND
+
+  BY NATHAN HASKELL DOLE
+    THE SPELL OF SWITZERLAND
+
+
+  THE PAGE COMPANY
+  53 Beacon Street
+  Boston, Mass.
+
+
+
+
+  [Illustration: _Mount Mayon_ (_See page 308_)]
+
+
+
+
+  The SPELL of
+  THE HAWAIIAN ISLANDS
+  AND THE PHILIPPINES
+
+  _Being an Account of the Historical and Political Conditions
+  of Our Pacific Possessions, together with Descriptions of the
+  natural Charm and Beauty of the Countries and the strange and
+  interesting Customs of their Peoples._
+
+
+  _BY_
+  _Isabel Anderson_
+
+  _Author of "The Spell of Japan," "The Spell of Belgium," etc._
+
+
+  ILLUSTRATED
+
+
+  BOSTON
+  THE PAGE COMPANY
+  PUBLISHERS
+
+
+
+
+  _Copyright, 1916, by_
+  THE PAGE COMPANY
+
+  _All rights reserved_
+
+
+  Published in November, 1916
+  Second Impression, June, 1917
+
+
+  THE COLONIAL PRESS
+  C. H. SIMONDS CO., BOSTON, U. S. A.
+
+
+
+
+  I DEDICATE THIS BOOK WITH LOVE
+  TO THE MEMORY OF MY GRANDFATHER
+
+  WILLIAM F. WELD
+
+  WHOSE SHIPS SAILED UPON THESE
+  TROPICAL SEAS
+
+
+
+
+FOREWORD
+
+
+It is my hope that this book about our islands in the Pacific ocean may
+be of some interest, if for no other reason than that there is at
+present so much discussion as to whether or not we should keep the
+Philippines.
+
+Soon after the close of the Civil War my father, who was a naval
+officer, was sent on a cruise on the Pacific and stopped for a time both
+at Honolulu and Manila. During this cruise he took part in the
+occupation and survey of Midway Island, as it is now called--_our first
+possession in Pacific waters_. Many years later, when my husband and I
+started on our first trip to the East, I asked my father if he would
+give us letters of introduction to his many friends there. He replied,
+"It is a long time since I visited the islands in the Pacific; if my
+friends have forgotten me letters would do no good, and if they remember
+me letters are not necessary." Needless to say, they did remember him
+and extended to us the most cordial hospitality.
+
+The charm of Hawaii will linger forever in our memory--those happy
+flower islands where the air is sweet with perfume and gay with the
+musical strains of the ukulele. We lived there for a time before the
+Islands were annexed to the United States and, on another visit, we had
+the privilege of accompanying the Secretary of War, Hon. J. M.
+Dickinson, so that we had exceptional opportunities of seeing both
+Hawaii and the Philippines, and of making the acquaintance of leaders
+among the Americans and the natives.
+
+We found the Philippines especially fascinating on account of the great
+variety they provide. The old world plazas, the flowering Spanish
+courtyards, and the pretty women in their distinctive costume of piña
+are all enchanting. Nowhere else in the Far East are the
+_mestizos_--those of mixed blood--socially above the natives. The
+Filipinos are unique in that they are the only Asiatics who are
+Christians. Among the hills, near civilization, live the savages who
+indulge in the exciting game of head-hunting. The Moros, the Mohammedans
+of the southern islands, stand quite by themselves. They are very
+picturesque and absolutely unlike their neighbours.
+
+Secretary Dickinson and Governor Forbes we can never thank enough for
+the thousand and one strange sights we saw, as enchanting as the tales
+which Scheherezade told during those far-off Arabian Nights. I only wish
+I could describe them in her delightful style! Of all the spells what is
+more puissant than the spell of the tropics--the singing of dripping
+water, the rustle of the palm in the breeze. In this land you forget all
+trouble and dream of love and happiness, while the Southern Cross gleams
+brightly in the sky.
+
+There it is indeed true that
+
+  "The flower of love has leisure for growing,
+      Music is heard in the evening breeze,
+  The mountain stream laughs loud in its flowing,
+      And poesy wakes by the Eastern Seas."
+
+I wish especially to say how grateful I am to those who have helped me
+in one way or another, with this book: Admiral George Dewey, General
+Thomas Anderson, Major J. R. M. Taylor, Major William Mitchell, Mr.
+William R. Castle, Jr., and Mr. C. P. Hatheway. Mr. R. K. Bonine was
+also very kind in allowing me to reprint some of his photographs of
+Hawaii. My thanks are also due to Miss Helen Kimball, Miss C. Gilman,
+Miss K. Crosby, and my husband, and to all the others who have been so
+good as to encourage me in writing the "Spell of the Hawaiian Islands
+and the Philippines."
+
+
+
+
+CONTENTS
+
+
+  FOREWORD                                       vii
+
+  THE HAWAIIAN ISLANDS
+
+  CHAPTER                                       PAGE
+     I THE BRIGHT LAND                             3
+    II MYTHS AND MELES                            29
+   III THE FIVE KAMEHAMEHAS                       48
+    IV SERVANT AND SOIL                           81
+     V IN AND OUT                                103
+
+  THE PHILIPPINES
+
+     I MANILA AS WE FOUND IT                     123
+    II THE PHILIPPINES OF THE PAST               148
+   III INSURRECTION                              180
+    IV FOLLOWING THE FLAG                        206
+     V HEALING A NATION                          224
+    VI DOG-EATERS AND OTHERS                     245
+   VII AMONG THE HEAD-HUNTERS                    270
+  VIII INSPECTING WITH THE SECRETARY OF WAR      296
+    IX THE MOROS                                 325
+     X JOURNEY'S END                             353
+
+  BIBLIOGRAPHY                                   363
+
+  INDEX                                          365
+
+
+
+
+LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS
+
+
+                                                                PAGE
+  MOUNT MAYON (_in full colour_) (_See page 308_)     _Frontispiece_
+  MAP OF THE HAWAIIAN ISLANDS                                      3
+  ROYAL HAWAIIAN HOTEL                                             6
+  HON. SANFORD B. DOLE                                             9
+  SURF-BOATING (_in full colour_)                                 17
+  MAKING POI (_in full colour_)                                   27
+  INTERIOR OF HAWAIIAN GRASS HOUSE                                33
+  ANCIENT TEMPLE INCLOSURE                                        37
+  A HULA DANCER (_in full colour_)                                40
+  QUEEN EMMA                                                      65
+  KING KALAKAUA AND STAFF                                         73
+  "THE TINY PLANTATION RAILWAY AMONG THE WAVING GREEN STALKS"     82
+  PINEAPPLE PLANTATION, ISLAND OF OAHU                            88
+  LEPER COLONY, ISLAND OF MOLOKAI                                105
+  SILVERSWORD IN BLOOM, IN THE CRATER OF HALEAKALA               108
+  FIRE HOLE, KILAUEA                                             110
+  ON THE SHORES OF KAUAI, THE "GARDEN ISLAND"                    115
+  MAP OF THE PHILIPPINES                                         121
+  GOVERNOR GENERAL CAMERON FORBES                                125
+  THE PASIG RIVER (_in full colour_)                             128
+  MALACAÑAN PALACE                                               136
+  MRS. ANDERSON IN FILIPINA COSTUME                              139
+  "UNDER THE BELLS"                                              155
+  JOSE RIZAL                                                     170
+  FORT SANTIAGO                                                  172
+  A GROUP OF FILIPINA LADIES                                     182
+  AGUINALDO'S PALACE AT MALOLOS                                  191
+  SAN JUAN BRIDGE                                                194
+  GENERAL LAWTON                                                 196
+  BENGUET ROAD                                                   212
+  FIRST PHILIPPINE ASSEMBLY                                      215
+  OSMEÑA, THE SPEAKER OF THE FIRST ASSEMBLY                      217
+  A CARABAO (_in full colour_)                                   225
+  PENAL COLONY ON THE ISLAND OF PALAWAN                          239
+  THE PARTY AT BAGUIO                                            246
+  IGOROT SCHOOL GIRL WEAVING                                     251
+  IGOROT OUTSIDE HIS HOUSE                                       253
+  ILONGOT IN RAIN-COAT AND HAT OF DEERSKIN                       258
+  ILONGOTS RETURNING FROM THE CHASE                              260
+  WOMAN OF THE BATAN ISLANDS WITH GRASS HOOD                     264
+  CONSTABULARY SOLDIERS                                          283
+  RICE TERRACES                                                  287
+  IFUGAO COUPLE                                                  289
+  IFUGAO HEAD DANCE                                              293
+  WEAPONS OF THE WILD TRIBES                                     295
+  LANDING AT TOBACO                                              309
+  A MORO _DATO_ AND HIS WIFE, WITH A RETINUE OF ATTENDANTS       325
+  A MORO GRAVE                                                   329
+  A MORO _DATO'S_ HOUSE                                          336
+  BAGOBO MAN WITH POINTED TEETH                                  339
+  BAGOBOS WITH MUSICAL INSTRUMENTS                               345
+  BAGOBO WITH NOSE FLUTE                                         348
+  MORO BOATS                                                     350
+  ONE DAY'S CATCH OF FISH                                        356
+  VIEW IN ILOILO, ILOILO, SHOWING HIGH SCHOOL GROUNDS            358
+  THE OLD AUGUSTINIAN CHURCH, MANILA                             361
+
+
+
+
+[Illustration]
+
+
+
+
+THE SPELL OF THE HAWAIIAN ISLANDS AND THE PHILIPPINES
+
+
+
+
+THE HAWAIIAN ISLANDS
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER I
+
+THE BRIGHT LAND
+
+
+On our first trip to Hawaii we sailed from San Francisco aboard the
+_Gaelic_ with good, jolly Captain Finch. He was a regular old tar, and
+we liked him. We little thought that in 1914 he would have the
+misfortune to be in command of the _Arabic_ when it was torpedoed in the
+Atlantic. He showed great gallantry, standing on the bridge and going
+down with his ship, but I take pleasure in adding that he was saved.
+
+We had an ideal ocean voyage: calm, blue seas, with a favouring trade
+wind, a glorious moon, and strange sights of huge turtles, tropic birds,
+and lunar rainbows. We had, too, an unusual company on board--Captain
+Gridley, of Manila Bay fame, then on his way to take command of the
+_Olympia_; Judge Widemann, a German who had lived for many years in
+Honolulu, and had married a Hawaiian princess; Mr. Irwin, a
+distinguished American with a Japanese wife--all old friends of my
+father, who, as a naval officer, made several cruises in the
+Pacific--Dr. Furness of Philadelphia, a classmate of my husband's at
+Harvard, who was going out to study the head-hunters of Borneo; and Mr.
+Castle, grandson of one of the early missionaries to Hawaii. He has
+since written a charming book on the Islands.
+
+After six days on the smooth Pacific, we caught sight of Oahu, the fairy
+island on which Honolulu is situated. Diamond Head stretches far out
+into the blue, like a huge lizard guarding its treasure--a land of
+fruits and flowers, of sugar-cane and palm. The first view across the
+bay of the town with its wreath of foliage down by the shore, just as
+the golden sun was setting over the mountain range, was a picture to be
+remembered. And in the distance, above Honolulu, the extinct crater
+called Punchbowl could be seen, out of which the gods of old no doubt
+drank and made merry.
+
+An ancient Hawaiian myth of the creation tells how Wakea, "the
+beginning," married Papa, "the earth," and they lived in darkness until
+Papa produced a gourd calabash. Wakea threw its cover into the air, and
+it became heaven. The pulp and seeds formed the sky, the sun, moon and
+stars. The juice was the rain, and out of the bowl the land and sea were
+created. This country they lived in and called it Hawaii, "the Bright
+Land." There are many legends told of Papa by the islanders of the
+Pacific. She traveled far, and had many husbands and children, among
+whom were "the father of winds and storms," and "the father of forests."
+
+As we approached the dock, we forgot to watch the frolicking porpoises
+and the silver flying fish, at sight of the daring natives on their
+boards riding the surf that broke over the coral reef. The only familiar
+face we saw on the wharf as we landed was Mr. George Carter, a friend of
+my husband's, who has since been Governor of the Islands.
+
+Oahu is a beautiful island, and the town of Honolulu at once casts its
+spell upon you, with the luxuriance of its tropical gardens. There is
+the spreading Poinciana regia, a tree gorgeous with flowers of flame
+colour, and the "pride of India," with delicate mauve blossoms; there
+are trees with streaming yellow clusters, called "golden showers," and
+superb date and cocoanut and royal palms, and various kinds of acacia.
+Bougainvilleas, passion-flowers, alamanders and bignonias drape verandas
+and cover walls. There are hedges of hibiscus and night-blooming cereus,
+and masses of flowering shrubs. Everywhere there is perfume, colour and
+profusion, the greatest wealth of vegetation, all kept in the most
+perfect freshness by constant little passing showers--"marvelous rain,
+that powders one without wetting him!" Honolulu is well named, the word
+meaning "abundance of peace," for we found the gardens of the town
+filled with cooing doves. It is said the place was called after a chief
+by that name in the time of Kakuhihewa, the only great king of Oahu who
+is mentioned before Kamehameha I.
+
+At the time of this visit, in 1897, the total isolation of the Islands
+was impressive, absolutely cut off, as they were, except for steamers.
+Sometimes, moreover, Hawaii was three weeks without an arrival, so that
+the coming of a steamer was a real event. To cable home, one had to send
+the message by a ship to Japan and so on around the world.
+
+After a night at the old Royal Hawaiian Hotel, big and rambling, in the
+center of a pretty garden, we started housekeeping for ourselves in a
+little bungalow on the hotel grounds, with a Chinaman for maid of all
+work. Here we lived as if in a dream, reveling in the beauty of land and
+sea, of trees and flowers, enjoying the hospitality for which the
+Islands are famous, and exploring as far as we could some of the
+enchanting spots of this heaven on earth.
+
+[Illustration: ROYAL HAWAIIAN HOTEL.]
+
+We were pleased with our little house, with its wide veranda, or
+_lanai_, as it is called there, which we made comfortable and pretty
+with long wicker chairs and Chinese lanterns. Mangoes falling with a
+thump to the ground outside, and lizards and all sorts of harmless
+creatures crawling or flying about the house, helped to carry out the
+tropical effect.
+
+In the four visits that we have made on different occasions we have
+found the climate perfect; the temperature averages about 73 degrees.
+The trade winds blowing from the northeast across the Pacific are
+refreshing as well as the tiny showers, which follow you up and down the
+streets. There is not a poisonous vine or a snake, or any other creature
+more harmful than the bee; but I must confess that the first night at
+the old hotel, the apparently black washstand turned white on my
+approach as the water bugs scuttled away. Nothing really troubled us but
+the mosquitoes, which, by the way, did not exist there in the early
+days, so must have been taken in on ships.
+
+The Islands have been well called "the Paradise of the Pacific" and "the
+playground of the world." The five largest in the group, and the only
+important ones, are Hawaii, about the size of Connecticut, Maui, Oahu,
+Kauai and Molokai. The small ones are not worth mentioning, as they have
+only cattle and sheep and a few herdsmen upon them. They are formed of
+lava--the product of numberless volcanic eruptions--and the action of
+the sea and the rain, combined with the warm climate and the moisture
+brought by the trade winds, has resulted in the most varied and
+fascinating scenery. Mark Twain, who spent many months there, said of
+them, "They are the loveliest group of islands that ever anchored in an
+ocean," and indeed we were of his opinion.
+
+At that time the Islands formed an independent republic, under Sanford
+B. Dole as President, the son of Rev. Daniel Dole, one of the early
+missionaries. He was educated at Punahou, meaning new spring, now called
+Oahu College, and at Williams College in the States. He came to Boston
+to study law, and was admitted to the bar. But Hawaii called him, as if
+with a forecast of the need she would have of his services in later
+days, and he went back to Oahu, where he took high rank among the
+lawyers in the land of his birth, and became judge of the Supreme Court.
+After the direct line of Kamehameha sovereigns became extinct, and the
+easy-going rule of their successors culminated in the high-handed
+attempt of Queen Liliuokalani to restore the ancient rites and also to
+turn the island into a Monte Carlo, Judge Dole was the one man who
+understood both parties and had the confidence of both, and he was the
+unanimous choice of the best element of the population for president.
+
+[Illustration: HON. SANFORD B. DOLE.]
+
+Of course we visited the buildings and localities in Honolulu that were
+of interest because of their connection with the existing government or
+their history in the past. The Executive Building--the old palace, built
+by King Kalakaua and finished in the finest native woods--and the Court
+House, which was the Government Building in the days of the kings; the
+big Kawaiahao Church, built of coral blocks in 1842, and the Queen's
+Hospital, all are in the city, but they have often been described, so I
+pass them by with only this mention. The first frame house ever erected
+in the Islands deserves a word, as it was sent out from Boston for the
+missionaries. It had two stories, and in the early days its tiny rooms
+were made to shelter four mission families and twenty-two native
+children, who were their pupils.
+
+Oahu College, too, interested us. It was built on the land given by
+Chief Boki to Hiram Bingham, one of the earliest missionaries, who
+donated it to his coworkers as a site for a school for missionary
+children. The buildings stand in a beautiful park of ninety acres, in
+which are superb royal palms and the finest algaroba trees in Honolulu.
+Long ago, in the days of the rush for gold to California, boys were sent
+there for an education from the Pacific Coast.
+
+The great aquarium at Waikiki, the bathing suburb of Honolulu, I found
+particularly fascinating. There does not exist in the world an aquarium
+with fishes more peculiar in form or colouring than those at Waikiki,
+unless the new one in the Philippines now surpasses it. About five
+hundred varieties of fish are to be found in the vicinity of the
+Islands. The fish are of many curious shapes and all the colours of the
+rainbow. Some have long, swordlike noses, and others have fins on their
+backs that look like feathers. One called the "bridal veil" has a lovely
+filmy appendage trailing through the water. The unusual shapes of the
+bodies, the extraordinary eyes and the fine colouring give many of them
+a lively and comical appearance. Even the octopus, the many-armed sea
+creature, seemed wide awake and gazed at the onlookers through his glass
+window.
+
+An afternoon was spent in the Bishop Museum, which is very fine and well
+equipped, its collection covering all the Pacific islands. I was chiefly
+interested in the Hawaiian curios,--the finely woven mats of grass work
+and the implements of the old days. Here, too, was the famous royal
+cloak of orange, made of feathers from the _mamo_ bird.[1] It was a work
+of prodigious labour, covering a hundred years. This robe is one of the
+most gorgeous things I have ever seen and is valued at a million
+dollars. There were others of lemon yellow and of reds, besides the
+plumed insignia of office, called _kahili_, which were carried before
+the king. Our guide through the museum was the curator, Professor
+Brigham, who had made it the greatest institution of its kind in the
+world.
+
+This museum is a memorial, created by her husband, to Bernice Pauahi
+Bishop, great-granddaughter of Kamehameha I and the last descendant of
+his line. Bernice Pauahi was the daughter of the high chief Paki and
+the high chieftainess Konia. She was born in 1831, and was adopted in
+native fashion by Kinau, sister of Kamehameha III, who at that time had
+no daughters of her own. Her foster sister, Queen Liliuokalani, said of
+her, "She was one of the most beautiful girls I ever saw."
+
+At nineteen she married an American, Hon. Charles R. Bishop, who was
+collector of customs in Honolulu at that time. She led a busy life, and
+used her ability and her wealth to help others. She understood not only
+her own race but also foreigners, and she used her influence in bringing
+about a good understanding between them.
+
+In 1883, the year before her death, she bequeathed her fortune to found
+the Kamehameha School for Hawaiian boys and girls. This school has now a
+fine group of stone buildings not far from Honolulu.
+
+The Lunalilo Home was founded by the king of that name for aged
+Hawaiians. When we visited it, we were particularly interested in one
+old native who was familiar with the use of the old-time musical
+instruments. This man, named Keanonako, was still alive two years ago.
+He was taught by his grandfather, who was retained by one of the old
+chiefs. He played on three primitive instruments--a conch shell, a
+jew's-harp and a nose flute. The last is made of bamboo, and is open at
+one end with three perforations; the thumb of the left hand is placed
+against the left nostril, closing it. The flute is held like a clarinet,
+and the fingers are used to operate it. Keanonako played the different
+notes of the birds of the forest, and really gave us a lovely imitation.
+The musical instruments in use to-day are the guitar, the mandolin, and
+the _ukulele_. The native Hawaiians are very musical and sing and play
+well, but the music is now greatly mixed with American and European
+airs.
+
+It was always entertaining to drive in the park, where we listened to
+the band and watched the women on horseback. In those days the native
+women rode astride wonderfully well and looked very dignified and
+stately, but one does not see this superb horsemanship and the old
+costumes any more. They did indeed make a fine appearance, with the
+_paus_, long flowing scarfs of gay colours, which some of them wore
+floating over their knees and almost reaching the ground, while their
+horses curvetted and pranced.
+
+One of the amusements was to go down to the dock to see a steamer off
+and watch the pretty custom of decorating those who went away with
+_leis_--wreaths of flowers--which were placed around the neck till the
+travelers looked like moving bouquets and the whole ship at last became
+a garden. When large steamers sailed the whole town went to the wharf,
+and the famous Royal Hawaiian Band--which Captain Berger, a German, led
+for forty years--played native airs for an hour before the time of
+sailing. It was an animated and pretty sight at the dock, for the
+natives are so fond of flowers that they, too, wear leis continually as
+bands around their hats, and they bring and send them as presents and in
+compliment. Steamers arriving at the port were welcomed in the same
+charming fashion.
+
+Judge Widemann kindly asked us to dine and view his wonderful hedge of
+night-blooming cereus. The good old Judge who had married the Princess
+had three daughters; two of the girls were married to two brothers, who
+were Americans. All the daughters were attractive, and the youngest, who
+was the wife of a German, was remarkably pretty. It was strange at first
+to see brown-skinned people in low-necked white satin dinner gowns, and
+to find them so cultured and charming.
+
+We dined with Mr. and Mrs. Castle, also with old Mrs. Macfarlane at
+Waikiki. We enjoyed our evening there immensely. Sam Parker, "the prince
+of the natives," and Paul Neumann, and Mrs. Wilder, too, all great
+characters in those days, were very kind to us. Many of them have passed
+away, but I shall always remember them as we knew them in those happy
+honeymoon months.
+
+All the mystic spell of those tropical evenings at Waikiki lives in
+these lines by Rupert Brooke:
+
+  "Warm perfumes like a breath from vine and tree
+    Drift down the darkness. Plangent, hidden from eyes,
+    Somewhere an eukaleli thrills and cries
+  And stabs with pain the night's brown savagery.
+  And dark scents whisper; and dim waves creep to me,
+    Gleam like a woman's hair, stretch out, and rise;
+    And new stars burn into the ancient skies,
+  Over the murmurous soft Hawaiian sea."
+
+I took great pleasure in going to Governor Cleghorn's place. He is a
+Scotchman who married a sister of the last king, and was at one time
+governor of this island. Many years ago, my father brought home a
+photograph of their beautiful daughter, then a girl of fourteen, who
+died not long after. Mr. Cleghorn's grounds were superb--old avenues of
+palms and flowering shrubs, and shady walks with Japanese bridges, and
+pools of water filled with lilies. A fine view of the valley opened out
+near the house. There were really two connected houses, which were large
+and built of wood, with verandas. One huge room was filled with
+portraits of the Hawaiian royal family and some prints of Queen Victoria
+and Prince Albert. There were knickknacks everywhere, and teak-wood
+tables and chairs, _poi_ bowls made by hand, and primitive stone tools.
+We were served with lemonade by two Japanese servants in the pretty
+costume of their land, while tea was served by a picturesque Chinese
+woman at a table on the veranda.
+
+Besides these informal entertainments, there were various official
+functions. One was a delightful musicale at President Dole's house, in
+the midst of his lovely tropical garden; also a dinner at the Consul
+General's, besides several parties on the naval vessels at the station.
+Captain Book gave us a dinner and dance on his ship, the _Marian_. We
+had breakfast one day on the flagship _Philadelphia_ with Admiral and
+Mrs. Beardsley--the Admiral was in command of the station. Captain
+Cotton of the _Philadelphia_ also gave us a boating party by moonlight,
+followed by a little dance aboard ship.
+
+[Illustration: _Surf-Boating_]
+
+After lunching with the American Minister, Mr. Sewall, one day, we sat
+on his lanai at Waikiki and watched the surf-boating, which was
+most exciting, even from a distance, as the canoes came in at racehorse
+speed on the crest of the breakers. That day L. and I put our bathing
+suits on, as we did indeed several times, got into an outrigger canoe
+with two native boys to handle it, and started for the reef. They
+skilfully paddled the boat out between the broken waves, waiting for the
+chance to move on without meeting a foaming crester, and then hurrying
+to catch a smooth place. At last we got out far enough and turned,
+watching over our shoulders for a big fellow to come rolling in. Then
+the boys paddled wildly and allowed the crest, as it broke, to catch and
+lift the boat and rush it along on top of the roaring foam, right up to
+the beach. On one of our trips our oarsmen were a little careless and we
+were upset. But instead of swimming in shore we swam out to sea and
+pushed the boat until we were well beyond the breakers, where we could
+right it again and get in--which, for those not used to it, is not a
+particularly easy thing to accomplish. The people on the shore became
+frightened about us and sent out another boat to pick us up, for we were
+quite far out and there were many sharks around.
+
+By the way, one hears it questioned even to-day whether sharks really
+do eat men, notwithstanding two men were bitten lately while bathing as
+far north as on the New Jersey coast. I will simply say I have seen a
+black diving boy at Aden with only one leg, as the other was bitten off
+by a shark, and have myself even worn black stockings when bathing in
+tropical seas because it is said sharks prefer white legs to black.
+
+An old friend of mine, an admiral in the navy, tells this extraordinary
+story--that a sailor was lost overboard from his ship, and that inside a
+shark caught the very same day was found the sailor's head. Here is
+another story even more remarkable than that, taken from Musick's book
+on Hawaii:
+
+"Why, sharks are the most tractable creatures in the world when you know
+how to handle them. It takes a great deal of experience and skill to
+handle a good-sized shark, one of the man-eating species, but the Kanaka
+boys know exactly how to master them. I used to have a fish pond over on
+the other side of Oahu, and at high tide sometimes as many as half a
+dozen full-grown sharks would come in the pond at a time, and when it
+was low tide it left them in the pond, which would be so shallow the
+sharks could not turn over. The native boys used to go to that pond,
+jump astride the sharks and ride them through the water. It was great
+amusement to see them riding races around the pond on the backs of the
+sharks.
+
+"Now, if you don't believe this story, if you will charter the ship I
+will take the whole party to the very pond in which the sharks are
+ridden for horses. If I can't show you the pond, I will pay the expense
+of the ship."
+
+A long drive up into the mountains back of the town one morning, took us
+to Mt. Tantalus, two thousand or more feet high, from which there are
+splendid views of the plain below and the sea beyond and mountain ranges
+on each side. To-day there are many pretty summer villas built on its
+slopes. While we were looking down on the town and harbour far below us,
+we saw little puffs of white smoke, and long after could just hear the
+booming of the guns of the warships, American, English, and Japanese,
+saluting in honour of the President of this little island republic, who
+was visiting one of the vessels. Then we climbed higher yet, through
+woods of _koa_ trees, bordered by thickets of the lantana, with its
+many-coloured flowers, up till we could look down into the dead crater
+of Punchbowl and over Diamond Head, and far off across the sparkling
+ocean, while the steeply ravined and ribbed mountains seemed to fall
+away suddenly beneath our feet.
+
+Punchbowl, where in the early days the natives offered human sacrifices,
+"is for the most part as red as clay, though a tinge of green in its
+rain-moistened chinks suggests those bronzes of uncertain antiquity." On
+this mountain top a myth tells us how a human being was first made--a
+man to rule over this island. The gods molded him from the clay of the
+crater, and as they were successful and he came to life, they made from
+his shadow a woman to keep him company. Indeed, many of the natives
+still believe in gods and fairies, in shark men, owls, and ghosts, and
+they will tell you stories of the goddess of the crater even to-day.
+
+When we last visited this island thirteen years later with our Secretary
+of War, Mr. Dickinson, we saw many changes. We were taken to the
+Alexander Young Hotel in the center of the town, and to the great hotel
+at Waikiki. The old hotel, where we stayed years before, had changed
+hands and was sadly run down. How pretty and green everything was, and
+how marvelous were the flowers! Many new and rare species had been
+planted.
+
+The changes have been gradual, but to-day Honolulu is a modern,
+up-to-date American town, with business blocks of brick. The Makapuu
+Point Light is one of the largest in the world, and Diamond Head crater
+has been made into one of the strongest fortifications of modern times.
+Great men-of-war are to be seen off Honolulu, and Pearl Harbour has been
+dredged. The army quarters on this island are quite fine. There are good
+golf links, and on the polo field you see excellent players; the field
+is also used for aviation. The finely equipped Children's Hospital, the
+Normal School, and the McKinley High School were interesting
+institutions that had sprung up since our first visit.
+
+To-day, out of a total population in all the Islands of 209,830,
+Honolulu has over 50,000. Many new houses and beautiful gardens are to
+be seen. The island now has, of course, cable and wireless communication
+with the mainland, electric cars and lights, telephones, the telegraph
+and numberless motors--in fact, every luxury is to be found. There are a
+number of clubs, of which the University is especially popular, and the
+Pacific, or British, Club is the oldest. The graduates of women's
+colleges have formed a club of their own. Schools and charitable
+institutions and missionary societies are numerous, and the Y. M. C. A.
+building is very prominent.
+
+The city now has many churches, which are well attended. The Episcopal
+cathedral, of stone brought from England, is especially fine. The
+Catholic cathedral and convent have long been established. It was a
+Catholic priest who first brought the algaroba tree from Central America
+sixty years ago and planted it in the city of Honolulu. The descendants
+of that one tree have reclaimed great sandy wastes and clothed them with
+fodder for cattle.
+
+Our motor trip to Pearl Harbour took us past Mr. S. M. Damon's charming
+new place with its delightful Japanese garden. We motored to the Pali, a
+precipice that drops one thousand feet to the plains which stretch to
+the sea, where in the old days we had gone so often. Now, a stone tablet
+on its summit bears the following inscription:
+
+"Erected by the Daughters of Hawaii in 1907 to commemorate the battle of
+Nuuanu, fought in this valley in 1795, when the invading Kamehameha I
+drove the forces of Kalanikupule, king of Oahu, to the Pali and hurled
+them over the precipice, thus establishing the Kamehameha dynasty."
+
+In these days of aeroplanes, I gather this myth of the Bird-man of the
+Pali from "Legends of old Honolulu," by Westervelt:
+
+Namaka was a noted man of Kauai, but he left that island to find some
+one whom he would like to call his lord. He excelled in spear-throwing,
+boxing, leaping and flying. He went first to Oahu, and in Nuuanu Valley
+he met Pakuanui, a very skilful boxer, and they prepared for a contest
+at the Pali. Pakuanui could not handle Namaka, who was a "whirlwind
+around a man," so he became angry and planned to kill him. Namaka was as
+"slimy as a fish." "The hill of the forehead he struck. The hill of the
+nose he caught." Like a rainbow bending over the _hau_-trees he was, as
+he circled around Pakuanui. At a narrow place Pakuanui gave him a kick
+that knocked him over the precipice, expecting him to be dashed to
+pieces. "But Namaka flew away from the edge.... The people who were
+watching said, ... He flew off from the Pali like an Io bird, leaping
+into the air ... spreading out his arms like wings!"
+
+This panorama is one of the wonders of the world; land and sea, coral
+reef and mountains, green meadow and shining sand, spread out before
+one's eyes at the Pali. As the road makes a sharp turn and begins to
+descend toward the valley, we encounter the full force of the trade
+winds, for through this pass a gale is always blowing. To quote from
+Charles W. Stoddard, "If you open your mouth too wide, you can't shut it
+again without getting under the lee of something--the wind blows so
+hard."
+
+From the Pali we went on to Pearl Harbour, where the United States
+Government is constructing a great naval station. This harbour, the
+finest in the Islands, is a deep lagoon, entered from the ocean by a
+narrow channel three miles in length. At the inner end it expands and
+divides into two "lochs," which are from thirty to sixty feet deep and
+with a shore line of some thirty miles. Algaroba forests cover the
+shores, and the fertile countryside, in which are rice, sugar and banana
+plantations, promises abundant supplies for the troops stationed here.
+
+Pearl Harbour has really been in our possession ever since the
+Reciprocity Treaty with Hawaii was signed in Harrison's
+administration.[2] As it covers ten square miles, the whole navy of this
+country could find anchorage there, and be in perfect safety. Not only
+has the bar that obstructed the entrance to the channel been removed,
+the long, narrow channel straightened, and a huge drydock constructed in
+which our largest ships of war could be repaired, but barracks, repair
+shops, a power house, hospitals, a powder magazine, and all the other
+buildings needed to make a complete station have been erected at a cost
+of more than ten millions of dollars. Before the drydock was finished it
+was partially destroyed by an upheaval. The natives' explanation was
+that the dock was built over the home of the Shark-god, and that he
+resented this invasion of his domain.
+
+The island of Oahu will soon be a second Gibraltar, we hope. The channel
+from the sea is guarded by Fort Kamehameha. Fort Ruger is at the foot of
+Diamond Head, Fort DeRussy near Waikiki Beach; at Moanalua is Fort
+Shafter, and at the entrance of Honolulu Harbour, Fort Armstrong. There
+are more than eleven thousand troops stationed there to-day, consisting
+of field artillery, cavalry, infantry, engineers, signal corps,
+telephone and telegraph corps, and it is said there will soon be fifteen
+thousand or more.[3]
+
+A Hawaiian feast, such as they had in the old days, was given in honour
+of the Secretary of War, so we were taken to the house of a member of
+the royal family. I was surprised to see how fine these residences were.
+This man was only part native, and really one would not have suspected
+from his appearance that he had any Hawaiian blood at all. His wife was
+a fat native in a _holoku_--a mother hubbard--who directed the feast,
+but did not receive.
+
+The bedroom in which we took off our wraps opened out of the big ball
+room. There was a bright-coloured quilt on the bed, and on the walls
+were many photographs and cheap prints. Here were also royal feather
+plumes in vases and more polished poi bowls.
+
+The inclosure where we feasted--or had the _luau_ or "bake"--which led
+out of the ball room, was half open with a cover of canvas and banana
+leaves. It contained a long table covered with flowers and fruit, bowls
+and small dishes. There were no forks nor spoons, nor anything but one's
+fingers to eat with. At the end of the meal a wooden dish was passed for
+us to wash our fingers. Some of the dishes contained raw fish with a
+sauce. A cocoanut shell held rock salt, the kind that is given to
+cattle, and a small bowl was filled with a mixture of sweet potato and
+cocoanut. That was the best dish of all. The roasted sweet potato was
+good, too, and pork, sewed up in _ti_ leaves and roasted with hot
+stones, was another delicacy. The drink was made of fruits and was very
+sweet. And, of course, we had poi.
+
+[Illustration: _Making Poi_]
+
+Poi is described as "one-finger" or "two-finger" poi--thick or thin.
+Native Hawaiians like it a few days old, when it is sour. Fortunately,
+as this was only one day old, I was able to put one finger-full of the
+pasty stuff in my mouth, and, on a dare, I ventured another. Poi is made
+from the taro root, which is boiled till soft, then pounded and mixed
+with water. Why I was not ill after this feast I don't know, as I tried
+mangoes, grapes, watermelon, and pineapple, as well as all the other
+things. Leis of pink carnations were put about our necks. Hawaiian music
+with singing went on during the meal, and afterward we danced.
+
+The company was certainly cosmopolitan. One of the people who interested
+me most was a Hawaiian princess, really very pretty, dressed in the
+height of fashion. Her father was English. Another interesting person
+was the daughter of a full-blooded Chinaman, her mother being half
+Hawaiian. Her husband was an American. She told me with great pride that
+her boys were both very blond. A wild Texan army man also roused my
+interest, from the point of view of character study; and I must not
+forget an Englishwoman, who said, on departure, "Us is going now." We
+found it all very diverting and the people so kind and hospitable that
+we enjoyed every minute of our stay.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER II
+
+MYTHS AND MELES
+
+
+Native Hawaiians--big, generous, happy, good-looking folk, athletic and
+fond of music--are in physical characteristics, in temperament, in
+language, traditions and customs, so closely related to the Samoans, the
+Maoris of New Zealand, and the other inhabitants of Polynesia, that it
+is clear they belong to the same race. Although Hawaii is two thousand
+miles from any other land, the people are so much like the natives of
+the South Sea Islands that I do not see how the relationship can be
+questioned. Distance, too, means little, for we hear that only lately a
+Japanese junk was caught in a storm and the mast destroyed, yet it was
+swept along by the Japan current and in an exceedingly short time was
+washed up on the shore near Vancouver, with most of the sailors still
+alive. The adventurous boatmen who first landed on the island of Hawaii,
+however, must not only have crossed two thousand miles of ocean in their
+canoes but crossed it in the face of opposing trade winds and ocean
+currents.
+
+The Polynesians of those early days, like the ancient Chaldeans, studied
+the heavenly bodies, and so, on their long voyages, were able to guide
+their course by the stars. Their vessels, which were double canoes, like
+those of the modern Samoans, were from fifty to one hundred feet long
+and carried a large company of people, with provisions, animals, idols,
+and everything that was needed for a long voyage or for colonizing a
+strange island.
+
+The legends of that earliest time tell of Hawaii-loa, who sailed from
+the west to the Islands, which he named for himself. The coming of Wakea
+and Papa also belonged to that period. While they are mentioned as the
+creators of the earth, they are said in another version of the story to
+have come from Savaii in Samoa. They brought with them the _tabu_, which
+is common to all Polynesia.
+
+Little is to be learned, however, of the history of Hawaii from the
+folklore of Pacific Islanders until about the year 1000 A. D. If we
+may believe their traditions, this was a time of great restlessness
+throughout all Polynesia, when Hawaii was again visited and held
+communication with other islands, peopled by the same race. It is
+interesting to remember that this was the century when the Norsemen were
+striking out across the Atlantic, showing that there were daring
+navigators on both sides of the globe.
+
+Paao, one of the heroes from Samoa, who settled in Hawaii, became high
+priest. He introduced the worship of new gods and increased the number
+of tabus. The great temple built by him was the first in the shape of a
+quadrangle--previously they had been three-sided. Afterward, he went
+back to Samoa and returned with Pili, whom he made ruler, and from whom
+the Kamehamehas were descended.
+
+From the Hawaiian _meles_, or songs, we may picture their life. The men
+were skilful fishermen, using hooks of shell, bone, or tortoise shell,
+nets of _olona_-fiber or long spears of hard wood. The bait used in
+shark fishing was human flesh. When it was thrown into the water and the
+shark was attracted to it, the fishermen sprang overboard and fought the
+fish with knives of stone and sharp shark's teeth. No doubt it was an
+extremely exciting sport.
+
+Along the shores of the Islands are the walls of many fish-ponds, some
+of which, though very old, are still in use and bid fair to last for
+centuries longer. Usually they were made by building a wall of lava rock
+across the entrance to a small bay, and the fish were kept in the
+inclosure. The wall was built loosely enough to allow the water to
+percolate through it, and sluice gates were added, which could be opened
+and closed. They were at first owned by kings and chiefs, and were
+probably built by the forced labour of the people. Tradition has it that
+the wall of Wekolo Pond at Pearl Harbour was built by natives who formed
+a line from shore to mountain and passed lava rock from hand to hand
+until it reached the shores over a mile away, without once touching the
+ground. Some of the ponds in the interior of the Islands have been
+turned into rice fields and taro patches, especially on Oahu.
+
+The sports and games of the Hawaiians, of which there were many, were
+nearly all associated with gambling. Indeed, it was the betting that
+furnished most of the excitement connected with them. At the end of a
+day of games, many of the people would have staked and lost everything
+they owned in the world.
+
+Boxing, surf-riding and hurling the _ulu_--a circular stone disk, three
+or four inches in diameter--were some of the favourite amusements, as
+well as tobogganing, which is interesting as a tropical adaptation of
+something that we consider a Northern sport. The slide was laid out on a
+steep hillside, that was made slippery with dry _pili_ grass. The
+sled, of two long, narrow strips of wood joined together by wicker work,
+was on runners from twelve to fourteen feet long, and was more like our
+sleds than modern toboggans. The native held the sled by the middle with
+both hands, and ran to get a start. Then, throwing himself face
+downward, he flew down the hill out upon the plain beyond, sometimes to
+a distance of half a mile or more.
+
+[Illustration: INTERIOR OF HAWAIIAN GRASS HOUSE.]
+
+The old Hawaiians were not bad farmers, indeed, I think we may call them
+very good farmers, when we consider that they had no metal tools of any
+description and most of their agricultural work was done with the _o-o_,
+which was only a stick of hard wood, either pointed at one end or shaped
+like a rude spade. With such primitive implements they terraced their
+fields, irrigated the soil, and raised crops of taro, bananas, yams,
+sweet potatoes, and sugar-cane.
+
+Most of the houses of primitive Hawaiians were small, but the grass
+houses of the chiefs were sometimes seventy feet long. They were all
+simply a framework of poles thatched with leaves or the long grass of
+the Islands. Inside, the few rude belongings--mats, calabashes, gourds,
+and baskets for fish--were all in strange contrast to the modern luxury
+which many of their descendants enjoy to-day. The cooking was done
+entirely by the men, in underground ovens. Stones were heated in these;
+the food, wrapped in ti leaves, was laid on the stones and covered with
+a layer of grass and dirt; then water was poured in through a small
+opening to steam the food.
+
+The mild climate of Hawaii makes very little clothing necessary for
+warmth, and before the advent of the missionaries the women wore only a
+short skirt of _tapa_ that reached just below the knees, and the men a
+loin-cloth, the _malo_. Tapa, a sort of papery cloth, is made from the
+bark of the paper mulberry.
+
+Hawaiians say that in the earliest days their forefathers had only
+coverings made of long leaves or braided strips of grass, until two of
+the great gods, Kane and Kanaloa, took pity upon them and taught them to
+make _kiheis_, or shoulder capes.
+
+Tapa making was an important part of the work of the women. It was
+sometimes brilliantly coloured with vegetable dyes and a pattern put on
+with a bamboo stamp. Unlike the patterns which our Indians wove into
+their baskets and blankets, each one of which had its meaning, these
+figures on the tapa had no special significance, so far as is known. By
+lapping strips of bark over each other and beating them together, the
+tapa could be made of any desired size or thickness.
+
+In the old legends, Hina, the mother of the demi-god Maui, figures as
+the chief tapa maker. The clouds are her tapas in the sky, on which she
+places stones to hold them down. When the winds drive the clouds before
+them, loud peals of thunder are the noise of the rolling stones. When
+Hina folds up her clouds the gleams of sunlight upon them are seen by
+men and called the lightning.
+
+The sound of the tapa beating was often heard in the Islands. The story
+is told, that the women scattered through the different valleys devised
+a code of signals in the strokes and rests of the mallets by which they
+sent all sorts of messages to one another--a sort of primitive
+telegraphy that must have been a great comfort and amusement to lonely
+women.
+
+In the early days, marriage and family associations fell lightly on
+their shoulders, and even to-day they are somewhat lax in their morals.
+The seamen who visited the Islands after their discovery by Captain Cook
+brought corruption with them, so that the condition of the natives when
+the first missionary arrived was indescribable. A great lack of family
+affection perhaps naturally followed from this light esteem of
+marriage. The adoption and even giving away of children was the
+commonest thing, even among the high chiefs and kings, and exists more
+or less to-day.
+
+There were three distinctly marked classes even among the ancient
+Hawaiians--chiefs, priests, and common people--proving that social
+distinctions do not entirely depend upon civilization. The chief was
+believed to be descended from the gods and after death was worshiped as
+a deity.
+
+The priestly class also included sorcerers and doctors, all called
+_kahuna_, and were much like the medicine men among the American
+Indians. As with most primitive peoples--for after all, when compared
+they have very similar tastes and customs--diseases were supposed to be
+caused by evil spirits, and the kahuna was credited with the power to
+expel them or even to install them in a human body. The masses had
+implicit belief in this power, and "praying to death" was often heard of
+in the old days.[4]
+
+Ancient Hawaiians wrapped their dead in tapa with fragrant herbs, such
+as the flowers of sugar-cane, which had the property of embalming
+them. They were sometimes buried in their houses or in grottoes dug in
+the solid rock, but more frequently in natural caves, where the bodies
+were dried and became like mummies. Sometimes the remains were thrown
+into the boiling lava of a volcano, as a sacrifice to Pele.
+
+[Illustration: ANCIENT TEMPLE INCLOSURE.]
+
+It is said no Hawaiians were ever cannibals, but in the early days
+man-eaters from the south visited these Islands and cooked their victims
+in the ovens of the natives. Human bones made into the shape of fish
+hooks were thought to bring luck, especially those of high chiefs, so,
+as only part of Captain Cook's body was found and he was considered a
+god, perhaps his bones were used in this way.
+
+The _heiaus_, or temples, developed from Paao's time into stone
+platforms inclosed by walls of stone. Within this inclosure were sacred
+houses for the king and the priests, an altar, the oracle, which was a
+tall tower of wicker work, in which the priest stood when giving the
+message of his god to the king, and the inner court--the shrine of the
+principal idol. One of the most important heiaus, which still exists,
+although in ruins, is the temple of Wahaula on the island of Hawaii.
+
+There was much that was hard and cruel about this religion. The idols
+were made hideous that they might strike terror to the worshipers. Human
+sacrifices were offered at times to the chief gods. The idols of the
+natives were much like those of the North American Indians, but the
+Kanakas are not like the Indians in character.
+
+The oppressive tabu was part of the religion, and the penalty for
+breaking it was death. The word means prohibited, and the system was a
+set of rules, made by the chiefs and high priests, which forbade certain
+things. For instance, it was tabu for women to eat with men or enter the
+men's eating house, or to eat pork, turtles, cocoanuts, bananas and some
+kinds of fish. There were many tabu periods when "no canoe could be
+launched, no fire lighted, no tapa beaten or poi pounded, and no sound
+could be uttered on pain of death, when even the dogs had to be muzzled,
+and the fowls were shut up in calabashes for twenty-four hours at a
+time." Besides the religious tabus there were civil ones, which could be
+imposed at any time at the caprice of king or chiefs, who would often
+forbid the people to have certain things because they wished to keep
+them for themselves.
+
+One is apt to think that in those early days the natives of these
+heavenly islands must have been happy and free-living, without laws and
+doing as they wished, with plenty of fruit and fish to eat; but it was
+not so at all, for they were obliged to crawl in the dust before their
+king; they were killed if they even crossed his shadow.
+
+As a pleasant contrast to all these grim features, the Hawaiians, like
+the ancient Israelites, had cities of refuge, of which there were two on
+the island of Hawaii. Here the murderer was safe from the avenger, the
+tabu-breaker was secure from the penalty of death, and in time of war,
+old men and women and children could dwell in peace within these walls.
+
+The curious belief in a second soul, or double, and in ghosts, the
+doctrines of a future state, and the peculiar funeral rites, all of
+which formed part of the native religion, seem strange to many
+present-day Christian Hawaiians.
+
+In all Polynesia the four great gods were Kane, "father of men and
+founder of the world,"[5] Kanaloa, his brother, Ku, the cruel one, and
+Lono, to whom the New Year games were sacred. These four were also the
+chief deities of Hawaiians.
+
+Besides the great gods there was a host of inferior deities, such as the
+god of the sea, the god of the fishermen, the shark god, the goddess of
+the tapa beaters, Laka, the goddess of song and dance, who was very
+popular, and Pele, the goddess of volcanoes. Still lower in the scale
+were the demi-gods and magicians of marvelous power, like Maui, for whom
+the island of Maui is said to be named, who pulled New Zealand out of
+the sea with his magic fish hook and stole the secret of making fire
+from the wise mud hens. His greatest achievement was that of lassoing
+the sun and forcing him to slacken his speed. He was a hero throughout
+Polynesia, and his hook is said to have been still preserved on the
+island of Tonga in the eighteenth century.
+
+Like most primitive peoples, the Hawaiians danced in order that their
+gods might smile upon them and bring them luck, or to appease the
+dreaded Pele and the other gods of evil. The much-talked of _hula_ began
+in this way as a sacred dance before the altar in a temple inclosure,
+while the girls, clad in skirts of grass and wreaths of flowers, chanted
+their songs. There was grace in some of the movements, but on the
+whole the dances are said to have been "indescribably lascivious." After
+the missionaries arrived, the hula was modified, and to-day it has
+almost died out.
+
+[Illustration: _A Hula Dancer_
+_With some concession in costume to Western conventions_]
+
+Many of the old chants were addressed to Laka, sometimes called the
+"goddess of the wildwood growths." These meles had neither rime nor
+meter and were more like chants or recitatives, as the singers used only
+two or three deep-throated tones. Curiously enough the verses suggest
+the modern _vers libre_. The chants include love songs, dirges and name
+songs--composed at the birth of a child to tell the story of his
+ancestors--besides prayers to the gods and historical traditions. As
+some of these early songs have real vigour and charm, I give a few
+examples.
+
+The following is a very old chant of Kane, Creator of the Universe:
+
+  "The rows of stars of Kane,
+  The stars in the firmament,
+  The stars that have been fastened up,
+  Fast, fast, on the surface of the heaven of Kane,
+  And the wandering stars,
+  The tabued stars of Kane,
+  The moving stars of Kane;
+  Innumerable are the stars;
+  The large stars,
+  The little stars,
+  The red stars of Kane. O infinite space!
+  The great Moon of Kane,
+  The great Sun of Kane
+  Moving, floating,
+  Set moving about in the great space of Kane.
+  The Great Earth of Kane,
+  The Earth squeezed dry by Kane,
+  The Earth that Kane set in motion.
+  Moving are the stars, moving is the Moon,
+  Moving is the great Earth of Kane."[6]
+
+I find the meles to Laka especially pretty, such as these, taken from
+Emerson's "Unwritten Literature of Hawaii":
+
+  "O goddess Laka!
+  O wildwood bouquet, O Laka!
+  O Laka, queen of the voice!
+  O Laka, giver of gifts!
+  O Laka, giver of bounty!
+  O Laka, giver of all things!"
+
+  "This is my wish, my burning desire,
+  That in the season of slumber,
+  Thy spirit my soul may inspire,
+              Altar dweller,
+              Heaven guest,
+              Soul awakener,
+  Bird from covert calling,
+  Where forest champions stand,
+  There roamed I too with Laka."
+
+This one from the same collection is interesting in its simplicity and
+strength:
+
+  "O Pele, god Pele!
+  Burst forth now! burst forth!
+  Launch a bolt from the sky!
+  Let thy lightnings fly!...
+  Fires of the goddess burn.
+  Now for the dance, the dance,
+  Bring out the dance made public;
+  Turn about back, turn about face;
+  Dance toward the sea, dance toward the land,
+  Toward the pit that is Pele,
+  Portentous consumer of rocks in Puna!"
+
+The Hawaiian myths, I find, are not nearly so original or so full of
+charm as the Japanese and Chinese stories, and the long names are
+tiresome. They have, moreover, lost their freshness, their individuality
+and their primitive quality in translation and through American
+influence. They had been handed down entirely by word of mouth until the
+missionaries arrived. Many of the myths bear some resemblance to Old
+Testament stories as well as to the traditions told by the head-hunters
+of the Philippines. The legends of the volcano seem more distinctly
+Hawaiian.
+
+There are many legends of Pele as well as chants in her honour, which
+generally represent her as wreaking her vengeance on mortals who have
+been so unfortunate as to offend her. I quote one that is told to
+account for the origin of a stream of unusually black lava, which long,
+long ago flowed down to the coast on Maui:
+
+"A withered old woman stopped to ask food and hospitality at the house
+of a dweller on this promontory, noted for his penuriousness. His _kalo_
+(taro) patches flourished, cocoanuts and bananas shaded his hut, nature
+was lavish of her wealth all around him. But the withered hag was sent
+away unfed, and as she turned her back on the man she said, 'I will
+return to-morrow.'
+
+"This was Pele, goddess of the volcano, and she kept her word, and came
+back the next day in earthquakes and thunderings, rent the mountain, and
+blotted out every trace of the man and his dwelling with a flood of
+fire."
+
+Another story goes that in the form of a maiden the goddess appeared to
+a young chief at the head of a toboggan slide and asked for a ride on
+his sled. He refused her, and started down without her. Soon, hearing a
+roar as of thunder and looking back, he saw a lava torrent chasing him
+and bearing on its highest wave the maiden, whom he then knew to be the
+goddess Pele. Down the hill and across the plain his toboggan shot,
+followed by the flaming river of molten rock. The chief, however,
+reached the ocean at last and found safety in the waters.
+
+This condensed story of the Shark King is also a typical Hawaiian tale:
+
+The King Shark, while sporting in the water, watched a beautiful maiden
+diving into a pool, and fell in love with her. As king sharks can
+evidently take whatever form they please, he turned himself into a
+handsome man and waited for her on the rocks. Here the maiden came one
+day to seek shellfish, which she was fond of eating. While she was
+gathering them a huge wave swept her off her feet, and the handsome
+shark man saved her life. As a matter of course, she straightway fell in
+love with him. So it happened that one day they were married; but it was
+only when her child was born that the shark man confided to her who he
+really was, and that he must now disappear. As he left, he cautioned her
+never to give their child any meat, or misfortune would follow.
+
+The child was a fine boy, and was quite like other children except that
+he bore on his back the mark of the great mouth of the shark. As he grew
+older he ate with the men instead of the women, as was the custom, and
+his grandfather, not heeding the warning but wishing to make his
+grandson strong, so that some day he might become a chief, gave him the
+forbidden meat. When in company, the boy wore a cape to cover the scar
+on his back, and he always went swimming alone, but when in the water he
+remembered his father, and it was then that he would turn into a shark
+himself. The more meat the boy ate the more he wanted, and in time it
+was noticed that children began to disappear. They would go in bathing
+and never return. The people became suspicious, and one day they tore
+the boy's mantle off him and saw the shark's mouth upon his back. There
+was great consternation, and at last he was ordered to be burned alive.
+He had been bound with ropes and was waiting for the end, but while the
+fire was kindling he called on his father, King Shark, for help, and so
+it was that he was able to burst the ropes and rush into the water,
+where he turned into a shark and escaped.
+
+The mother then confessed that she had married the Shark King. The
+chiefs and the high priests held a council and decided that it would be
+better to offer sacrifices to appease him rather than to kill the
+mother. This they did, and for that reason King Shark promised that his
+son should leave the shores of the island of Hawaii forever. It was
+true, he did leave this island, but he visited other islands and
+continued his bad habits, until one day he was really caught just as he
+was turning from a man into a shark on the beach in shallow water. He
+was bound and hauled up a canyon, where they built a fire from the
+bamboo of the sacred grove. But the shark was so large that they had to
+chop down one tree after another for his funeral pyre, until the sacred
+grove had almost disappeared. This so angered the god of the forest that
+he changed the variety of bamboo in this region; it is no longer
+sharp-edged like other bamboo on the Islands.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER III
+
+THE FIVE KAMEHAMEHAS
+
+
+Hawaiian myths and traditions are confused and unreliable, and we know
+little real history of the "Bright Land," the "Land of Rainbows," before
+the coming of Captain Cook, in 1778. We do know, however, that, in those
+early days, the different tribes continually carried on a savage warfare
+among themselves. Not until the latter part of the eighteenth century
+did there arise a native chieftain powerful enough to subdue all the
+islands under his sway and bring peace among the warring tribes. This
+chief was Kamehameha I, or Kamehameha the Great, often called the
+Napoleon of the Pacific. The authentic history of Hawaii really begins
+with his reign. His portrait in the Executive Building in Honolulu shows
+him as a stern warrior.
+
+The Japanese, as well as the Spaniards, had long known of the existence
+of islands in that part of the Pacific Ocean. Tradition tells of some
+shipwrecked Spanish sailors and some Japanese who settled there at a
+very early date. These Islands were, however, brought to the notice of
+the civilized world for the first time by Captain Cook.
+
+The Englishmen were received by the simple natives with awe and wonder,
+Captain Cook himself was declared by the priests to be an incarnation of
+Lono, god of the forest and husband of the goddess Laka, and abundant
+provisions were brought to the ship as an offering to this deity. Had
+the natives been even decently treated, there would have been no tragic
+sequel to the story, but Cook's crew were allowed complete and
+unrestrained license on shore. As it was, there was no serious trouble
+during their first visit, but when they returned in a few months and
+again exacted contributions the supplies were given grudgingly. The
+English vessel sailed away, but was unfortunately obliged to put back
+for repairs, and it was then that the fight occurred between the
+foreigners and the natives in which Captain Cook met his death. It was
+this famous voyager who gave the name of Sandwich Islands to the group,
+in honour of his patron, Lord Sandwich. They were known by that name for
+many years, but it was never the official designation, and is now seldom
+used.
+
+The discovery of the Islands by Englishmen and Americans was fraught
+with evil consequences to the natives, as they brought with them new
+diseases, and they also introduced intoxicating liquors, and it soon
+became the custom for whaling vessels in the Pacific to call there and
+make them the scene of debauchery and licentiousness. It has been said
+that at that time sea captains recognized no laws, either of God or man,
+west of Cape Horn. We must not fail to note, however, that even in those
+early days there were a few white men who really sought the good of the
+Hawaiians.
+
+Isaac Davis and John Young were two of these men. When the crew of an
+American vessel was massacred these two were spared, and they continued
+to live in the Islands until their death. They were a bright contrast to
+most seamen who visited Hawaii at that period. They accepted the
+responsibility imposed by their training in civilization, exerting a
+great influence for good, and were even advisers and teachers of King
+Kamehameha I.
+
+Captain George Vancouver, who visited the Islands three times in the
+last decade of the eighteenth century under commission from the British
+Government, was another white man whose work there was wholly good. He
+landed the first sheep and cattle ever seen there, and induced the king
+to proclaim them tabu for ten years so that they might have time to
+increase, after which women were to be allowed to eat them as well as
+men. He introduced some valuable plants, such as the grapevine, the
+orange and the almond, and brought the people seeds of garden
+vegetables. He refused them firearms. Under his direction the first
+sailing vessel was built there and called the _Britannia_. Vancouver so
+won over the natives by his kind treatment that the chiefs ceded the
+Islands to Great Britain and raised the British flag in February, 1794.
+He left them with a promise to come again and bring them teachers of
+Christianity and the industries of civilization. His death, however,
+prevented his return, and Great Britain never took formal possession.
+
+Kamehameha I, who, at the time of Cook's arrival, was only a chief on
+the island of Hawaii, joined in the tribal wars, conquered the other
+chiefs of that island, and became king. While this conquest was in
+progress, an eruption of Kilauea destroyed a large part of the opposing
+army and convinced Kamehameha that Pele was on his side.
+
+The subjugation of Maui and Oahu followed. At the great battle fought in
+the Nuuanu Valley, the king of Oahu was defeated and driven with his
+army over the Pali. Kamehameha was twice prevented from invading Kauai,
+but some years later it was ceded to him by its ruler.
+
+After the conquest of Oahu was completed, in 1795, it was Kamehameha's
+work to build up a strong central government. According to the feudal
+system that had existed in the Islands up to that time, all the land was
+considered to belong to the king, who divided it among the great chiefs,
+these in turn apportioning their shares among the lesser chiefs, of whom
+the people held their small plots of ground. All paid tribute to those
+above them in rank. Kamehameha I, in order to increase his own power and
+destroy that of the chiefs, distributed their lands to them in widely
+separated portions rather than in large, continuous tracts, as had been
+the custom previously.
+
+Kamehameha was elected by the chiefs as king of all the Hawaiian
+Islands, and founded the dynasty called by his name, under which his
+people had peace for nearly eighty years. He adroitly used the tabu to
+strengthen his power, and availing himself of the wise advice of the few
+benevolent foreigners whom he knew, he sought in every way to further
+the best interests of his people. He has been called "one of the
+notable men of the earth."
+
+The bronze statue of Kamehameha I stands in front of the Judiciary
+Building in Honolulu. The anniversary of the birthday of the great ruler
+occurs in June, and is celebrated by the natives far and near. His
+statue is dressed in his royal cape of bird feathers and decorated with
+leis of flowers by the sons and daughters of Hawaii.
+
+The strength of character of Kamehameha I is shown in many ways, but
+especially in the stand he took in regard to liquor, which was having a
+disastrous effect on his people. When he became convinced that alcoholic
+drinks were injurious, he decided never to taste them again.
+
+Before the close of his life, he made a noble effort to prevent the use
+of liquor by his people. All the chiefs on the island of Hawaii were
+summoned to meet in an immense grass house, which he had ordered built
+at Kailua, the ancient capital, solely for this council. When they were
+all assembled the King entered in his magnificent cape of mamo bird
+feathers, and drawing himself up to his full height, uttered this
+command:
+
+"Return to your homes, and destroy every distillery on the island! Make
+no more intoxicating liquors!"
+
+At the death of Kamehameha I, in 1819, his son Liholiho succeeded him as
+Kamehameha II. Unfortunately, he did not carry out his father's wishes.
+He was like his father in nothing but name, being weak and dissipated,
+and easily influenced by the unscrupulous foreigners who surrounded him.
+Many changes took place in his reign, but so strong had the government
+been made by his father that it survived them all. Fortunately, too, an
+able woman, one of the wives of the first Kamehameha, was associated
+with the King as Queen Regent.
+
+Before the end of the year 1819 the Hawaiians had burned their idols and
+abolished tabu. It was the influence of Europeans that had led to these
+radical changes. Early in the nineteenth century the trade in sandalwood
+sprang up, in return for which many manufactured articles were imported,
+especially rum, firearms and cheap ornaments. This trade brought
+increased numbers of foreigners to the Islands, and their sneers
+undermined the faith of the people in their old gods without offering
+them any other religion as a substitute.
+
+In this connection, we are told that twice Kamehameha I made an effort
+to learn something about Christianity. When he heard that the people of
+Tahiti had embraced the new faith, he inquired of a foreigner about it,
+but the man could tell him nothing. Again, just before his death, he
+asked an American trader to tell him about the white man's God, but, as
+a native afterward reported to the missionaries, "He no tell him." This
+greatest of the Hawaiians prepared the way, but he himself died without
+hearing of Christ.
+
+The Hawaiians had now swept their house clean, and they were ready for
+an entirely new set of furnishings. In a land far away beyond the
+Pacific these were preparing for them, and the short reign of this
+second Kamehameha was made memorable not only by the changes already
+mentioned but also by the coming of the missionaries, in 1820.
+
+Obookiah, whose real name was Opukahaia, was a young Hawaiian who
+shipped as seaman on a whaler about 1817, and was taken to New Haven,
+where he found people who befriended him and undertook to give him an
+education. They sent him to the Foreign Mission School which had been
+established at Cornwall, Connecticut, for young men from heathen lands.
+Among his mates were four others from his native islands. It had been
+his purpose to carry the Christian religion to his home, but he was
+taken seriously ill at the school and on his death-bed he pleaded with
+his new friends not to forget his country. His appeal led the first
+missionaries to embark for those far-away shores. Three young Hawaiians
+from the school went with them as assistants.
+
+When the Christian teachers arrived, it is said that the captain of the
+ship sent an officer ashore with the Hawaiian boys. After awhile they
+returned, shouting out their wonderful news:
+
+"Liholiho is king. The tabus are abolished. The idols are burnt. There
+has been war. Now there is peace."
+
+The missionaries received a cordial welcome from some of the natives of
+high station. The former high priest met them with the words,
+
+"I knew that the wooden images of gods carved by our own hands could not
+supply our wants, but I worshiped them because it was a custom of our
+fathers.... My thought has always been, there is only one great God,
+dwelling in the heavens."
+
+The chief Kalaimoku, neatly dressed in foreign clothes, boarded the
+ship, accompanied by the two queen dowagers, and welcomed each of the
+newcomers in turn with a warm hand clasp. One of the queens asked the
+American women to make her a white dress while they were sailing along
+the coast, to wear on meeting the King. When she went ashore in her new
+white mother hubbard, a shout greeted her from hundreds of throats!
+Because the gown was so loose that she could both run and stand in it,
+the natives called it a holoku, meaning "run-stand." It became the
+national dress. The queens afterward sent the missionaries sugar-cane,
+bananas, cocoanuts and other foods, as a token of their pleasure.
+
+The Americans were received kindly by the King after explaining their
+mission and were allowed to remain in the Islands. They had many trials
+and privations, but they were strong in their faith, and within twenty
+years they had the joy of baptizing thousands of converts.
+
+Kamehameha II, fearing the Russians--one trader had actually gone so far
+as to hoist the Russian flag over some forts that he had built--visited
+the United States with his queen and then went on to England to ask for
+protection, which was promised them by George IV. They both died there,
+in 1824, and their remains were sent home in a British man-of-war,
+commanded by Lord Byron, cousin of the poet.
+
+When Kamehameha III was made ruler, all the unprincipled white men in
+Oahu immediately set to work to lead him into every form of dissipation,
+but they were not to succeed with him as they had with his predecessor.
+There were men of ability in that band of missionaries, and they had
+great influence with him. These faithful advisers had a large share in
+framing the liberal constitution which he granted.
+
+It is of special interest to note that, the year before the constitution
+was adopted, a Bill of Rights was promulgated, which set forth the
+fundamental principles of government and is often called the Hawaiian
+Magna Charta. An eminent writer has given us the provisions of this
+document.
+
+It asserts the right of every man to "life, limb, liberty, freedom from
+oppression, the earnings of his hand, and the productions of his mind,
+not however, to those who act in violation of the laws. It gave natives
+for the first time the right to hold land in fee simple; before that the
+King had owned all the land, and no one could buy it. In this document
+it is also declared that 'protection is hereby secured to the persons of
+all the people, together with their lands, their building lots and all
+their property while they conform to the laws of the kingdom,' and that
+laws must be enacted for the protection of subjects as well as rulers."
+
+A commission was also formed to determine the ownership of the land. By
+this commission one-third of all the land was confirmed to the King,
+one-third to the chiefs, and one-third to the common people. As far as
+possible the people's share was so divided that each person received the
+piece of ground that he was living on. The King and many of the chiefs
+turned over one-half of their share to the Government, which soon held
+nearly one-third of all the landed property in the kingdom.
+
+The first constitution was framed in 1840. About ten years later an
+improved one was adopted. The legislature was to meet in two houses. The
+nobles were to be chosen by the King for life, and were not to be more
+than thirty in number. There were to be not less than twenty-four
+representatives, who were to be elected by the people. The Supreme Court
+was to be composed of three members--a chief justice and two associate
+justices. Four circuit courts were to be established, and besides the
+judges for these, each district was to have a judge who should settle
+petty cases.
+
+It was in 1825, early in the reign of Kamehameha III, that Kapiolani,
+daughter of the high chief Keawe-mauhili, of Hilo, defied the power of
+Pele. Having become a Christian, she determined to give her people an
+object lesson on the powerlessness of their gods. With a retinue of
+eighty persons she journeyed, most of the way on foot, one hundred miles
+to the crater of Kilauea. When near the crater, she was met by the
+priestess of Pele, who threatened her with death if she broke the tabus.
+But Kapiolani ate the sacred _ohelo_ berries without first offering some
+to the goddess, and undaunted, made her way with her followers down five
+hundred feet to the "Black Ledge." There, on the very margin of the
+fiery lake of Halemaumau, she addressed her followers in these ringing
+words:
+
+"Jehovah is my God. He kindled these fires.... I fear not Pele. If I
+perish by the anger of Pele, then you may fear the power of Pele; but if
+I trust in Jehovah, and he should save me from the wrath of Pele, then
+you must fear and serve the Lord Jehovah. All the gods of Hawaii are
+vain!" Then they sang a hymn of praise to Jehovah, and wended their way
+back to the crater's rim in safety.
+
+It was during the reign of Kamehameha III that the United States, France
+and Great Britain recognized the independence of the Hawaiian Islands.
+Before this news reached the Pacific, however, Lord George Paulet, a
+British naval officer, took possession and hoisted the British flag,
+because the King refused to yield to his demands. Five months later,
+Admiral Thomas, in command of Great Britain's fleet in the East,
+appeared at Honolulu and restored the country to the natives. In
+recognition, an attractive public park was named for him. At the
+thanksgiving service held on that day, the King uttered the words which
+were afterward adopted as the motto of the nation, the translation of
+which is: "In righteousness is the life of the land."
+
+The independence of Hawaii was only once again threatened by a foreign
+power, when a French admiral took possession of the fort and the
+government buildings at Honolulu for a few days. Indeed, that
+independence was not only recognized but guaranteed by France, England
+and the United States.
+
+Many of the missionaries settled in Hawaii, and their descendants have
+become rich and prominent citizens. Hawaii owes much to them. So far as
+lay in their power, they taught the people trades and introduced New
+England ideals of government and education. Two years after they arrived
+a spelling book was printed, and a few years later the printing office
+sent out a newspaper in the native language. The first boarding school
+for boys was started by Lorrin Andrews in 1831, on Maui, and it was not
+long after that one was established for girls. The Hilo boarding school,
+which came later, was the one that General Armstrong took many
+suggestions from for his work for the coloured people, at Hampton
+Institute in Virginia. Indeed, so eager were the Hawaiians to learn of
+their new teachers that whole villages came to the mission stations,
+gray-haired men and women becoming pupils, and the chiefs leading the
+way.
+
+As early as 1835, Hoapili, governor of Maui, made the rule that all
+children over four years of age should attend school, and no man or
+woman who was unable to read and write should hold office or receive a
+license to marry. Soon after that laws were passed making attendance at
+school compulsory. Any man who had a child under eight years of age, and
+did not send him to school, was to suffer various penalties, among them
+to forfeit the right to cut the kinds of timber that the king set apart
+for the use of the people. To make this provision emphatic, the
+following sentence was added: "All those kinds of timber are tabu to
+those parents who send not their children to school." An anecdote of
+this transition period is found in a book written by one who styled
+himself simply _Haole_ (a foreigner). In the valley of Halawa, on the
+island of Molokai, he was entertained at the house of the district
+judge, a full-blooded Hawaiian. Among the furnishings of the house were
+a table, a bedstead, some chairs, even a rocking chair. He gives an
+amusing description of his evening meal in this house.
+
+"First of all, the table was covered with a sheet just taken off the
+bed. The table service consisted of a knife, fork and spoon, procured
+from the foot of a long woolen stocking, a single plate, a tumbler, and
+a calabash of pure water from a neighbouring spring. The eatables were
+composed of fresh fish, baked in wrappers of the ti leaf, a couple of
+boiled fowls, a huge dish of sweet potatoes, and another of boiled tara
+(taro?).... The last thing served upon the table was something which the
+family had learned to designate by the name of 'tea' in English. This
+was emptied into large bowls, and was intended for the family group,
+myself included....
+
+"The cook was a strapping Kanaka, rather more than six feet in height,
+and would have weighed nearly three hundred pounds. While I was the only
+occupant of the table, the family had formed a circle on their mats,
+where they were discussing their supper with the utmost eagerness. _He_
+devoted his entire attention to me. He was a good specimen of a well
+poi-fed native. I could see his frame to advantage, for his sole dress
+consisted of a short woolen shirt and the malo; and his head of hair
+resembled that of the pictured Medusa. When I first sat down to the
+table, he took up my plate, and with a mouthful of breath, which was
+really a small breeze, he blew the dust from it.
+
+"This act occasioned me no small merriment. But when, in supplying me
+with 'tea,' he took up a bowl and wiped it out with the corner of his
+flannel shirt, I could refrain no longer. I laughed until my sides
+fairly ached and the tears streamed down my face.... For a moment the
+family were taken by surprise, and so was this presiding deity of
+culinary operations. But on a second outburst from myself, they felt
+reassured, and joined with me in my laughter. The cook, however, seemed
+to feel that I had laughed at some one of his blunders; so he dipped the
+bowl in a calabash of water, washed it out with his greasy fingers, and
+again wiped it out with that same shirt lap. This was done three times,
+in answer to the laughter it was impossible for me to restrain. And
+when he had filled the bowl with tea, and saw that it remained untasted,
+he put a large quantity of sugar into the huge tea-kettle, shook it up,
+placed it at my right elbow, and told me to drink _that_!
+
+"The evening was closed with solemn devotions. The best bed in the house
+was placed at my disposal; and upon it was replaced the sheet on which I
+had just before supped, and on which I slept during that night. The bed
+was carefully stuffed with a soft downy substance, resembling raw silk,
+but called by the natives _pulu_, and culled from the tree-fern. The
+pillows were stuffed with the same material."
+
+[Illustration: QUEEN EMMA.]
+
+
+Kamehameha III was succeeded by his nephew and adopted son Kamehameha
+IV. Although he had a violent temper, he had many good qualities. His
+wife was Queen Emma, granddaughter of John Young, who was very English
+in her tastes. It was in her honour that the King founded the Queen's
+Hospital, and it was probably due to her influence that he started the
+Anglican mission and made an excellent translation of the English prayer
+book into the Hawaiian language. The harbour of Honolulu was enlarged by
+him and other improvements were made, and the cultivation of rice was
+introduced. After his death, which occurred in San Francisco, Queen Emma
+made an attempt to obtain the crown, but was unsuccessful.
+
+It was about this time, thirty years before my first visit to Hawaii,
+that my father, Lieutenant Perkins of the U. S. S. _Lackawanna_, was
+ordered to the Pacific, and for two years was stationed at Honolulu. He
+spent much of his spare time in traveling over the Islands, even to
+their remotest corners. He enjoyed visiting the ranches and joining in
+the exciting though perilous occupation of driving wild cattle down from
+the mountains, where one's safety depended almost wholly on skilful
+horsemanship. He ascended to the great crater of Kilauea, went to every
+interesting locality, studied the natives, attended their feasts and
+learned their customs. These things were described in his letters, and
+such a newspaper bit as the following gives a glimpse of the duties of a
+naval officer.
+
+"The whaling bark, _Daniel Wood_, of New Bedford, was wrecked on the
+French Frigates Shoal, April 14th. Captain Richard and a portion of the
+crew arrived at Honolulu after a passage of 450 miles in an open boat.
+The U. S. S. _Lackawanna_ immediately sailed for the scene of the wreck
+to rescue the remainder of the crew."
+
+Another clipping records this amusing incident: "The Commander of the
+British war vessel _Chanticleer_, at Honolulu, set his band playing
+'Dixie,' alongside the United States steamer _Lackawanna_. The latter
+retorted with 'Wearing of the Green.'"
+
+While the _Lackawanna_ was at Honolulu, an event occurred which was
+referred to in the discussions of Congress with regard to Hawaiian
+matters in the session of 1892-1893, as illustrating the policy of our
+Government. The official record of the Government affords a very
+complete story of how the United States became the possessor of what is
+now called Midway Island. It was first known as Brooks Island, but was
+renamed by our navy department, principally on the unofficial suggestion
+of the Pacific Mail Steamship Company, in recognition of its
+geographical position on the route from Hawaii to Japan.
+
+The attention of Mr. Welles, then Secretary of the Navy, was called to
+this island as possibly destined to prove of early importance as a
+coaling station for United States vessels cruising in these waters.
+Secretary Welles issued an order to Rear Admiral Thatcher, commanding
+the _Lackawanna_ or some other suitable vessel to search for the island
+and having found it, to take possession in the name of the United
+States.
+
+My father's letters give an account of this trip. August 4th, 1867, he
+wrote:
+
+   "Just now we are sailing along quietly, although we have been
+   greatly startled and had a few moments of terrible anxiety. One of
+   the men, while furling the top-gallant sail, lost his hold and fell
+   overboard. Of course, falling from such a height, we all thought he
+   was killed. The life buoys were cut away, and the ship hove to, and
+   the boat sent for him, which picked him up and found him but little
+   hurt after all. It was such a narrow escape, we were all greatly
+   relieved when we got him aboard all right. Except this, we are
+   sailing along day after day in perfect monotony, and for two months
+   or more we shall not see a strange face or hear a word of news from
+   home. But the weather is delightful, and my health is good."
+
+
+                                                       "August 24th.
+
+   "Breakers have been reported from the masthead, and I hope it is
+   the island we are looking for."
+
+
+                                                       "August 27th.
+
+   "Yes, it proved to be the land we were seeking, and now we are
+   lying at anchor off Brooks Island, called after the captain who
+   discovered it a few years ago; and probably never before or since
+   has there been any one there. It is low and sandy, about six miles
+   long, and its inhabitants are only sea gulls and other sea birds,
+   seals and turtles. Never having seen human beings before, they are
+   not in the least afraid of us, and we can catch as many of them as
+   we wish. I have been fishing and caught a boatload of fish and
+   eleven turtles, each one of the latter weighing two hundred pounds
+   and over. We are going to remain here and survey the island, but
+   to-day it has come on to rain, and we are all cooped up on board
+   the ship."
+
+
+                                                       "August 28th.
+
+   "Pleasant weather has come again, and I have been out hunting and
+   fishing. Shot seventeen curlew, hauled the seine, caught a boatload
+   of fish and three large turtles; hunted for shells, but could not
+   find any.
+
+   "We are going to have quite a ceremony and take possession of the
+   islands for the United States."
+
+
+Captain William Reynolds, the officer in command of the _Lackawanna_,
+was very proud of having been concerned in taking possession of the
+first island beyond our own shores ever added to the dominion of the
+United States. In his report he well describes the somewhat dramatic and
+spectacular performance.
+
+"I have the honour to report that on Wednesday, the 28th of August,
+1867, in compliance with the orders of the Hon. Secretary of the Navy of
+May 28th, I took formal possession of Brooks Island and reefs for the
+United States. Having previously erected a suitable flagstaff I landed
+on that day, accompanied by all the officers who could be spared from
+the ship, with six boats armed and equipped, and under a salute of
+twenty-one guns, and with three cheers, hoisted the national ensign, and
+called on all hands to witness the act of taking possession in the name
+of the United States.
+
+"The ceremony of taking possession over, the howitzers and small-arm men
+and marines were exercised at target-firing. Having hauled the seine and
+procured an abundant supply of fish, the men cooked their dinner on
+shore, and the rest of the day was spent pleasantly, picnic fashion upon
+the island.... I sincerely hope that this will by no means be the last
+of our insular annexations. I venture to name the only harbour at this
+island after the present Hon. Secretary of the Navy, and to call its
+roadstead after the present Hon. Secretary of State (Seward)."
+
+"In 1869," writes C. S. Alden, in his life of Commodore Perkins,
+"Congress appropriated $50,000 for deepening the entrance of the
+harbour; the work was begun, but the amount proved insufficient for
+completing the plan. One hundred miles to the west, Lieutenant-Commander
+Sicard, of the U. S. S. _Saginaw_, who had the duties of inspecting and
+assisting in this work, had the misfortune to wreck his ship on a reef.
+The hazardous voyage of Lieutenant Talbot with three men in a small boat
+sailing over 1500 miles to Kauai, Hawaiian Islands, to gain succour, and
+the drowning of all but one of the men just as they reached their
+destination and were pushing through the surf to make a landing, is one
+of the thrilling tales of the sea. Nothing further seems to have been
+done by our Government until three or four decades later, when it sought
+to insure safety to navigation by establishing there a lighthouse and
+buoys. After the visits of the _Lackawanna_ and the _Saginaw_, the
+islands were deserted until the Pacific Commercial Cable Company placed
+there a station in the San Francisco-Manila line, maintaining about
+forty men. This is the intermediate station between Honolulu and
+Guam."[7]
+
+Kamehameha V was the older brother of the last King, and a man of
+autocratic temper, who promulgated a new constitution that increased the
+powers of the king and decreased those of the people. He was called
+Prince Lot before he came to the throne. During his reign the leper
+colony on Molokai was started, in an effort to stop the spread of
+leprosy. As every one knows, it was here that Father Damien, the
+Catholic priest, devoted his life to caring for the sufferers and
+finally succumbed to the disease. The King died in 1872, the last of his
+line. Just before his death, he turned to Mrs. Bishop and asked her to
+become queen. She refused, thinking she could serve her people better in
+some other way, and the King passed away without naming his successor.
+
+It was suggested that either the sister of Kamehameha V or one of the
+high chiefs should be placed on the throne, but Prince Lunalilo, the
+nearest male relative, was elected in 1874 by the people. He was thus
+the first Hawaiian monarch to be chosen by popular vote. His reign,
+however, lasted little more than a year.
+
+[Illustration: KING KALAKAUA AND STAFF.]
+
+David Kalakaua, a high chief, was the choice of the people to succeed
+Lunalilo. The Reciprocity Treaty with the United States was the great
+commercial event of this reign. By this sugar and some other products
+were admitted into America free of duty.
+
+This last of all the kings sought continually to regain the authority
+lost by the crown when the first constitution was granted, and his
+government kept growing more arbitrary and corrupt. Finally, so much
+feeling was roused that the foreign element compelled Kalakaua to
+proclaim a new constitution, by which he lost the power he had
+previously possessed and white men gained more control of the
+government. Two years later, the "Wilcox rebellion," headed by Robert W.
+Wilcox, a half-breed, was the unsuccessful attempt of the natives to
+assert themselves against the whites. It was, however, promptly put
+down.
+
+Kalakaua was kind-hearted, popular, and possessed a dignity and ease of
+manner that made him at home in any society, although he was dissipated
+and corrupt and could be "hail fellow well met" with carousers. Captain
+Lucien Young says of him in his book, "Real Hawaii":
+
+"Kalakaua was only a high chief, in no way related to the extinct royal
+family, and was reputed to be the illegitimate son of a negro cobbler,
+who had emigrated to the Islands from Boston."
+
+On the other hand, the sister of Kalakaua, Liliuokalani, who followed
+him, gives the following account of their pedigree:
+
+"My father's name was Kapaakea; my mother was Keohokalole; the latter
+was one of the fifteen counselors of the King, Kamehameha III. My
+great-grandfather Keawe-a-Heulu, the founder of the dynasty of the
+Kamehamehas, and Keona, father of Kamehameha I, were own cousins, and my
+great-grandaunt was the celebrated Queen Kapiolani, one of the first
+converts to Christianity."
+
+King Kalakaua was the author of the Hawaiian national hymn, which was
+set to music by Captain Berger, leader of the Royal Hawaiian Band. It
+certainly testifies to a firm belief in the "divine right of kings."
+
+  "Hawaii's very own,
+  Look to your sovran Lord,
+  Your chief that's heaven-born,
+  Who is your King;
+
+  "Men of Hawaii's land,
+  Look to your native chiefs,
+  Your sole, surviving lords,
+  The nation's pride.
+
+  "Men of Hawaiian stock,
+  My nation ever dear,
+  With loins begirt for work,
+  Strive with your might.
+
+  REFRAIN:
+
+  "Protector, heaven-sent,
+  Kamehameha great,
+  To vanquish every foe,
+  With conquering spear."
+
+Kalakaua died in San Francisco and his body was taken home in a United
+States man-of-war. His funeral was one of barbaric splendour with kahili
+bearers, superb feather cloaks, and as was the custom, with bearers who
+had shaved half their faces and heads.
+
+Under the kings the Hawaiians had a coat of arms. It had on the first
+and fourth quarters of the shields eight red, white and blue stripes,
+which represented the eight inhabited islands. On the yellow background
+of the second and third quarters were the tabu sticks--white balls with
+black staffs. These were a sign of protection, as well as of tabu. In
+the center of the shield is a triangular flag, the _puela_, lying
+across two spears. This also was a sign of tabu and protection. The
+background represents a royal mantle. At the sides are the supporters in
+feather cloaks and helmets, the one on the right carrying a spear, the
+one on the left a kahili, or staff used only on state occasions. Above
+the shield is the crown, ornamented with twelve taro leaves. Below is
+the national motto.
+
+Notwithstanding she had married an American, John C. Dominis of
+Massachusetts, Liliuokalani was even more determined than her brother
+had been to restore the ancient privileges of the monarch. She revived
+the old Hawaiian customs, and decided to proclaim a new constitution
+giving to herself increased power. The English Minister and his
+followers were on the Queen's side, but those who composed the American
+mission element were distinctly the best citizens, and this element
+conquered.
+
+A Citizen's Committee of Safety was formed, then a Provisional
+Government was established, and a delegation sent to Washington to
+request annexation to the United States. A treaty of annexation was
+drawn up, but it was not acted upon by the Senate before President
+Harrison's term of office ended and President Cleveland's began. In the
+meantime, Mr. Stevens, our Minister to Hawaii, had, at the request of
+the Provisional Government, put the Islands under the protection of the
+Government of the United States. Emissaries of the Queen told their
+story to President Cleveland, who sent a special Commissioner to the
+Islands to report on conditions there. After receiving his report, which
+was far from impartial, the President sent an urgent request--really a
+demand--to the Provisional Government to restore the Queen to power. It
+was impossible for free-born Americans to accede to such a demand, and
+they replied through Hon. S. B. Dole that the Government "respectfully
+and unhesitatingly declines to entertain the proposition of the
+President of the United States that it should surrender its authority to
+the ex-Queen." Then, in 1894, despairing of immediate annexation, they
+formed a republic with Mr. Dole as president.
+
+It was proposed by some of the people that Princess Kaiulani, Mr.
+Cleghorn's daughter and the Queen's niece, should be proclaimed queen,
+and a Regency with Mr. Dole at its head established until the Princess
+came of age. But the American element did not feel that an honest
+government would be insured by this means. Kaiulani, who was being
+educated in England, came here and issued an appeal to Americans, but
+was unable to awaken sympathy. She died soon after.
+
+The new Republic of Hawaii thus began its history under the leadership
+of the man of whom it is said that he "throughout his life had been
+identified with all that was least partizan and most upright in the
+Islands." It is interesting to note that a vast amount of political
+wire-pulling was guarded against in the constitution then adopted by the
+provision that the President at the close of his term of six years
+should be "ineligible to reëlection for the next succeeding term."
+
+The last native uprising, said to have been instigated by the ex-Queen,
+occurred in 1895, but was quickly put down. Among the few who lost their
+lives at this time was Charles L. Carter, brother of Governor Carter.
+Liliuokalani was tried for treason, with nearly two hundred of her
+followers, but having formally renounced all claim to the Hawaiian
+monarchy and taken the oath of allegiance to the republic, she was
+pardoned. None of the rebels were executed, their sentence being
+commuted in various ways.
+
+At this time, trouble arose over the large immigration from Japan; the
+Japanese contract labourers showed a bad spirit; a Japanese man-of-war
+appeared and also a British war vessel; and it was seen that only
+annexation to the United States could prevent the Islands from falling
+into the hands of some foreign power. They were formally annexed to the
+American republic in 1898. The Territory of Hawaii--this is now the
+official title of the Islands--has the same form of government as the
+other territories of the United States.[8]
+
+As was indeed fitting, the first governor of Hawaii was Hon. S. B. Dole.
+The governor and the secretary of the territory are appointed by the
+President. Of the fifty senators and thirty members of the House of
+Representatives about one-half are Hawaiians. There are two official
+delegates to Washington, one of whom is Prince Jonah Kuhio Kalanianaole,
+usually called Prince Cupid.
+
+A series of able men have succeeded Mr. Dole, who in 1903 was appointed
+to another office.[9] Hon. George R. Carter was the next governor until
+his resignation in 1907. Judge Walter F. Frear held the position from
+that time until 1913, when Governor Pinkham was appointed, who is still
+at the head of affairs in the territory.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER IV
+
+SERVANT AND SOIL
+
+
+As Americans have always been leaders in the Islands, so they were the
+first to begin the cultivation of sugar, which is the chief occupation.
+They commenced by using their own capital, and then gradually interested
+capitalists from the mainland. The Reciprocity Treaty between the United
+States and the Islands in 1876 gave a great impetus to the sugar
+industry. Capital, particularly from this country, was invested in the
+Islands, until at present crops of more than 600,000 tons are shipped
+away in a year.
+
+One of the largest sugar plantations in the world is that of the
+Hawaiian Commercial Sugar Company on the island of Maui. It was Mr.
+Claus Spreckles who bought crown land of the Hawaiian Princess Ruth and
+by his influence with King Kalakaua secured irrigation water for this
+tract at a nominal rental, then formed a stock company to carry on the
+plantation. The yearly product of these miles of cane fields alone is
+60,000 tons.
+
+On Maui, Kauai and Hawaii skilfully engineered tunnels have brought down
+the water needed for sugar raising. On Oahu artesian wells have reached
+"the water of magic power."
+
+We enjoyed an excursion to Judge Widemann's plantation of Waianae on
+Oahu. Here we saw a sugar-cane mill and wide meadows and brakes of the
+thick growth, and the whole process of the work--the crushing of the
+cane into molasses, the refining into sugar--and rode on the tiny
+plantation railway among the waving green stalks, while the blue sea
+sparkled on one side, and bare, gaily coloured mountains rose above us
+on the other.
+
+Sugar raising in Hawaii probably furnishes the most perfect example of
+scientific agriculture to be found under the flag of the United States.
+"Think of always plowing two feet deep," writes a friend, "and not
+having to wait for rain, but telephoning to the engineer to start the
+pumps--of knowing at the end of a crop just what elements and the amount
+of each have been taken from the soil--of searching the world for
+parasites to destroy the insect enemies of the cane--of collecting and
+recording the life history of all the insects found in countries
+bordering the Pacific and all the islands within its borders, so that
+when some new pest appears, its origin and characteristics will be
+known--of sending men out to wherever sugar-cane is grown, in order to
+study and record its diseases, and giving the planter coloured
+illustrations of symptoms, so that he may know them in advance of their
+arrival and be able to check the pest--of the skilful manipulation of
+the soil, so that there is a constant increase in the production."
+
+[Illustration: "THE TINY PLANTATION RAILWAY AMONG THE WAVING GREEN
+STALKS."]
+
+In harvesting the cane a path is first opened through the jungle, then
+the men, armed with knives like butchers' cleavers, go in among the
+dense growth to cut the stalks. After they have "stripped" a field in
+this way, the cane must be sent to the mill within twenty-four hours, or
+the juice will ferment.
+
+Here the Japanese women play their part--for, among the Japanese, the
+women as well as the men work on the plantations. They gather up the
+stalks, which are not very heavy but are decidedly unwieldy, and if the
+field is on high land take them to wooden flumes through which water is
+run from the irrigation ditches. The women toss the great twelve-foot
+stalks into the rapid stream which carries them down to a loading place
+for cane-cars. Here the flume branches into five "fingers," at the head
+of which stands a man who opens one finger after another, until the
+cars standing under them are filled in turn.
+
+Inside the cars are men who stack the cane as it tumbles in, so that
+each car carries a maximum load, laid in good order for the next process
+at the mill. Here, too, is an automatic "giant-hand" on an endless belt,
+the "fingers" of which, as it revolves, clutch the stalks of cane like
+jackstraws and pass them up to a wide belt that extracts every drop of
+juice so completely that the refuse is fit only for fuel for the
+furnaces. After the various processes of boiling down, evaporating,
+crystallizing and drying, the raw sugar is shoveled into gunny-sacks,
+which are filled to weigh exactly one hundred pounds each. Again the
+women take hold, and sew up the bags. The cost of raising and marketing
+sugar is from forty-five to seventy-five dollars a ton.
+
+Japanese women who work on the sugar plantations may be seen sometimes
+knee-deep in muddy-watery soil near the flumes, or again out in the
+driest, hottest part of a newly plowed field. They have discarded their
+usual Japanese dress for a mixed costume, consisting of a close-fitting
+waist of dark, figured, Japanese cotton crêpe, a scant skirt to the
+knee, khaki gaiters, and their own heavy cotton "bootees." To protect
+their hair from dust and their necks from the sun, they wear a piece of
+Japanese toweling, which is tied across the back of the head and hangs
+down on the shoulders. On top of this is perched a cheap American sailor
+hat. The effect is certainly startling. Some take their tiny babies in
+bright-figured swaddling clothes with them, and put up a little shelter
+tent of cloth and sticks, where the youngsters lie and sleep.
+
+Most of the women who do agricultural work are Japanese. A few years
+ago, when a ship-load of people came from Madeira, the women told the
+immigration authorities that they had come to work on the plantations.
+But, after a very short time, they retired from this sort of labour for
+the much pleasanter and more remunerative business of making Madeira
+embroidery. Among the Chinese the women rarely go out of their own homes
+to work, although Oriental servants prevail all over these Islands. Some
+of the younger generation of Portuguese girls go out as nursemaids in
+white families, but the majority of that race make sewing and
+dressmaking or "clerking" their means of support. It is surprising,
+indeed, to see how few of the employees in any store are "white";
+bookkeepers, clerks, etc., are usually young part-Hawaiians or
+part-Chinese.
+
+From the beginning, when sugar was ready for export, it was rarely
+shipped from the Hawaiian Islands in any but American bottoms. The
+American-Hawaiian Steamship Company--the largest fleet sailing under the
+Stars and Stripes and numbering twenty-eight vessels--the Oceanic
+Steamship Company, and the Matson Navigation Company, were all formed
+largely because of the favourable contracts they were able to make for
+carrying sugar, and the Pacific Mail Steamship Company, which plied
+between California and the Far East, stopped at Honolulu because of the
+profit to be made by carrying freight from the Islands. American
+shipping on the Pacific, however, has always been at a disadvantage,
+because foreign ships can be built more cheaply than ours and are
+usually subsidized.
+
+As if these drawbacks were not enough, during the present Congress the
+Seaman's Act, somewhat modified now to be sure, has had a disastrous
+effect on American shipping on the Pacific Ocean. The American boats
+used to carry crews of well trained Chinamen. Under this act the
+majority of the crew must be English-speaking sailors and they cannot be
+procured in sufficient numbers nor can such boats generally be run with
+sufficient economy to compete with foreign flags. So trans-Pacific trade
+has been given over almost entirely to the Japanese, who have especially
+fine passenger ships on that route to-day. As, according to our laws,
+these boats are not permitted to carry passengers or freight between
+American ports, the service between the Islands and the United States
+has been seriously crippled with consequent increase in rates of
+carriage. A resident in the Islands writes, "When the last Pacific Mail
+steamer sailed from Honolulu Harbour, all flags were at half mast and
+Hawaii was in mourning."
+
+Still, the planters are cheerful. For 1916, they look forward to an
+estimated production of 603,000 tons and a continuance of the present
+high prices, which will enable them not only to pay good dividends but
+also to install labour-saving machinery and to make other improvements,
+by which they will produce sugar more cheaply when the present era of
+high prices is over. The shipments of raw sugar from Hawaii for the year
+ending June 30, 1915, sold for more than $51,000,000.
+
+Next in importance to the sugar industry is the production of
+pineapples. These are raised only on the higher ground. The land is as
+carefully prepared as a garden, and the soil thoroughly pulverized. The
+plants are set in furrows, and there are sometimes as many as twelve
+thousand to the acre. They mature their fruit in about two years. When
+the pineapple ripens, from the lower part of the stump suckers appear,
+which bear fruit one year later. These in turn grow suckers that come
+into bearing the following year. Besides these there are slips, that
+spring from the upper part of the parent plant. New plants are grown not
+only from suckers and slips, but also from the crowns of the fruit, and
+growers consider them all about equally good. The plants almost never
+produce seeds, and when found, they are used for experimental purposes
+only.
+
+There are 24,000 acres of land in the pineapple plantations of the
+Islands, and most of them are on Oahu. There is never any frost, and as
+there are no serious insect pests which attack the fruit the crop is a
+very fine one. Nor is irrigation necessary, so that thousands of acres
+unavailable for sugar have brought in millions of dollars to those who
+own or rent these plantations.
+
+[Illustration: PINEAPPLE PLANTATION, ISLAND OF OAHU.]
+
+The fields are carefully picked over every day or two, and only
+perfectly ripe fruit is gathered. Hawaiian pineapples are rich in sugar
+when fully matured, but if picked green, they contain little sugar, and
+gain none after they are taken from the plant. Extensive experiments
+have shown that the Smooth Cayenne variety is far superior to all
+others, and it is now the only one grown in the Islands. In no instance
+are the fields more than a few miles from the cannery, and the fruit is
+put in the tins as soon as possible after it is picked. The Hawaiian
+canneries are equipped with labour-saving machinery. Aside from grading
+the slices and filling the cans, all the work is done by machines. The
+employees who handle the fruit wear rubber gloves with gauntlets, and
+the most modern sanitary methods are observed throughout. Every night
+everything in the factory is washed, steamed and scrubbed as clean as
+possible.
+
+When the fruit arrives at the cannery, it passes into a machine which
+first cuts off both ends, then takes out the core and removes the rind.
+It is then conveyed to another, which slices the whole pineapple in one
+operation. From here it passes on a moving belt in front of a line of
+workers, who select the perfect cylindrical pieces for the first grade.
+
+From the packing table the tins go to the syrup machine, where the fruit
+is covered with a syrup made of clear water and granulated sugar, thence
+to the exhaust box and double sealer, where it is heated and the cover
+sealed on the can. Then the can is conveyed to the cooker, where it is
+submerged in boiling water from twenty to thirty-five minutes, after
+which it is left in the cooling room about twelve hours, and then
+stacked in the warehouse until required for shipment.
+
+The history of this industry is interesting. Only small amounts were
+canned previous to the year 1901. There has been a steady increase ever
+since, with a total output in 1914 of over 2,000,000 cases from nine
+canneries. Nothing like this rapid increase in production and
+distribution has ever been known before in the canned-fruit trade.
+California, as every one knows, is the greatest fruit-producing section
+in the world, and her canned fruits are found in practically every
+market, yet her average total pack, of every variety except apples, from
+1901 to 1910, was only about one-third more than the pack of Hawaiian
+pineapples alone in 1914. The total value of those shipped to the United
+States for the year ending June 30, 1915, was nearly $6,000,000.
+
+Besides the other important staples raised by the planters for export,
+coffee and rice are produced in large quantities--over 3,000,000 pounds
+of each. The coffee grown in the district of Kona is famous. The Chinese
+are especially good at market gardening. The Hawaiians also plant taro
+for poi, which, although now manufactured by machinery, is still their
+favourite food, and is also eaten by the whites. Doctors pronounce it
+most digestible and strengthening. Duke Kahanamoku, a native who has
+always lived on poi, is the champion swimmer of the world. It is true
+that not only poi but also the climate is favourable to our race as
+well, for white boys brought up in Hawaii have proved themselves to be
+strong, all those who have gone into athletics in American colleges
+having made fine records.
+
+In addition to the products of the large plantations, wool, hides and
+skins from the ranches are exported to a considerable extent. The
+Shipman stock ranch, near Hilo, has been carried on for more than forty
+years. The Parker ranch, however, is the largest, having 18,000 head of
+cattle--Herefords and Holsteins. The long pods of the algaroba tree
+furnish a large part of the feed for cattle and horses. This is the
+carob tree of the New Testament, the pods of which were the husks that
+the Prodigal Son fed to the swine he tended. In the earlier days, guano
+from the bird islands was exported, for use as a fertilizer.
+
+While plantation life in the Islands may be monotonous for the resident,
+it is full of interest for the tourist who really takes time to see it.
+An effort is made by the planters to furnish recreation for their
+labourers. At Waialua on Oahu a large hall has been built, where
+moving-picture shows are given at intervals, political meetings are
+held, and there are dances for the white colony. The latter have tennis
+courts near their homes and hold tournaments, to which they invite
+players from other plantations. As work is over at four o'clock--the
+hours being from five to eleven in the morning and two to four in the
+afternoon--the men who work in mill, store or office can play every
+afternoon.
+
+The Portuguese, Japanese and Hawaiian boys have formed a baseball team,
+which represents the plantation in a league of such teams. There are
+match games by this league at different places every Sunday. The
+Japanese at Waialua have a theater, the occasional performances at which
+are announced during the day by a man who drives through all parts of
+the plantation in a hack covered with Japanese signs, beating a drum.
+
+The native Hawaiians in country districts often present "tableaux" for
+the benefit of their church or some charity fund. A friend of mine told
+me she had once gone to a representation of "Adam and Eve" which would
+have seemed either sacrilegious or ridiculous if done by any but these
+ingenuous, grown-up children. The minister of the church played the part
+of Satan, in a bright red union suit with a long tail; a large native,
+in flowing white robes, with a Santa Claus beard and mask, took the part
+of the Deity and banished Adam and Eve, in brown union suits the colour
+of their skin, from the Garden of Eden. Other tableaux gave very vivid
+portrayals of scenes from ancient days of royalty, with its attendant
+pomp and ceremony, and old Hawaiian legends. One of these was about
+Paahana, a young Hawaiian girl, who was afraid of the white settlers,
+and ran away to the mountains, building herself a shelter of grass among
+the bushes. Finally she was discovered by the white missionaries, who
+tried to approach her, but she was wild with fear, and vanished from
+sight into the forest. This story was told in verse, sung to the tune of
+"Mauna Kea," a hula dance.
+
+These entertainments are never complete without a dance for young and
+old, to music sung and played by a quintette of native boys. Besides the
+ukulele and the taro-patch, which is a large ukulele with five strings
+instead of four, they use the mandolin, violin, guitar and bass-viol.
+The Hawaiians, being naturally musical, have a keen sense of time and
+rhythm. The Filipinos are also fond of dancing, and in the Libby,
+McNiel and Libby pineapple cannery, where many of this nationality are
+employed, dances are held to make them more contented with their
+isolated life.
+
+Among the plantation labourers there is never the abject poverty that is
+known in the Far East for, in addition to steady wages, houses, water,
+fuel and doctor's services are all provided for them. Although the
+climate is semi-tropical sunstroke is unknown. The men who work around
+the machinery and the boiling sugar wear as few clothes as possible, and
+the women who sew up the bags of sugar as fast as they are filled, have
+adopted the cool and comfortable but hideous Hawaiian garb of the
+holoku. The heat from the great boilers in the mill is sometimes hard
+for the white men to bear, but I have never heard of a case of
+heat-prostration. As a large part of the school work must be done on
+the plantations I insert the following description, given me by one of
+the teachers of the school at Waialua, Oahu, the largest outside of
+Honolulu.
+
+"As the pupils are almost entirely foreign, the first grade has three
+divisions, to accommodate the number who enter it until they are able to
+speak enough English to be properly graded. Sometimes one finds here
+children of twelve to fourteen years who have just come to Hawaii. As a
+rule, they work hard to get out of the 'baby-grade,' and are quickly
+promoted.
+
+"I was the only white teacher in the school besides the principal. The
+other teachers were Hawaiian, half-white and Chinese Hawaiian girls who
+had gone through the Honolulu Normal School. They are good teachers,
+kind and patient, and can instruct children in the same slow manner in
+which they themselves learn. There was also a young Hawaiian man, a
+Normal graduate, who could help in many extra ways, such as map-drawing,
+chorus-leading, games, etc.
+
+"Fifteen nationalities were represented in the various grades--Hawaiian,
+Chinese, Japanese, Portuguese, Filipino, Spanish, Korean, Porto Rican,
+and a few Scotch, English, Canadians, Germans and Americans, as well as
+Russians and Italians. Besides the pure bloods there were many mixtures,
+such as American-Hawaiian, Chinese-Hawaiian, Japanese-Portuguese,
+German-Hawaiian, etc.
+
+"The Japanese and Chinese were the best pupils in every way. The
+Hawaiians were tractable, but stupid; Portuguese, smart but mischievous.
+School hours were from nine to twelve, and from half past twelve to two.
+Most of the children came from long distances, and after the plantation
+school was dismissed, the Japanese children went to a Japanese school
+for two hours.
+
+"In the first grade, I taught reading, writing and 'rithmetic; also
+nature-study, in simple form, story-work, folk songs and dances. These
+last helped them a great deal in the new vocabulary, as they loved that
+part of the day's program.
+
+"It was interesting to note the habits of the different nationalities at
+recess, especially in regard to their luncheon. The Japanese usually
+were together out in the yard. They each had their little tin pail with
+top and bottom section, in which they carried fish and cold rice. I
+never got a very close look at it, to know how the fish was cooked, but
+I could smell it afar off! They seemed very shy, and would try to hide
+their lunch as I walked past. The Chinese were even shyer about their
+lunch, for they never gathered together, as the other nationalities did,
+but went to some secluded spot and nibbled away at an orange or
+something else.
+
+"The Portuguese usually brought long rolls of bread, which had been cut
+open and a red jelly-like substance spread all along the inside. They
+also had fruit, and especially the mango in its season.
+
+"A little Japanese store nearby kept cakes and pastries, which were very
+popular when the children had money, but the greatest delicacy sold
+there seemed to be a rubbery substance, which looked like a piece of
+resin, but could be shaved in long strips. They called it dry squid, but
+it did not seem like the dry squid I've tried to masticate at native
+luaus, and I never did find out just what it was.
+
+"The schools are all supported by the territorial government, which in
+turn receives the plantation taxes, so the plantations themselves do not
+directly support the schools, although the children of the labourers
+comprise nine-tenths of the pupils outside Honolulu.
+
+"There is compulsory attendance until the age of fourteen, and at
+Waialua a school policeman--a Hawaiian--went all over the plantations
+on horseback and found out if any of the children were ill or playing
+truant."
+
+Each nationality is housed more or less by itself in small, one-story
+houses built in rows, each group called a camp. The white men employed
+as chemists, bookkeepers and clerks in the general store usually live in
+a group near the buildings where they are employed. They are German,
+Scotch, Norwegian, English and Danish. Few Americans go into this work
+now, although a number did in years past start out as time-keepers and
+have become managers. The Kanaka does not make a good manager, but if he
+has some one to direct him he works well, and he can learn almost any
+trade; of course he is at his best as a sailor, and he is such a
+wonderful rider that he makes an excellent cowboy.
+
+At Waialua there is a small hospital where the labourers are treated
+free, and in at least one of the outlying camps there is a small cottage
+that is used as a dispensary. The plantation doctor has charge of the
+school children, vaccinating all that need it at the opening of the
+school year and watching them for signs of trachoma or leprosy.
+
+Social work on plantations has not been carried on with a central
+organization as yet, and the welfare of the labourers depends on the
+attitude of the managers, who all belong to the Sugar Planters'
+Association. This holds yearly meetings of a week or more in Honolulu,
+when managers from all the Islands talk over questions pertaining to
+their interests.
+
+The agricultural situation in the Islands has been carefully studied by
+the Bureau of Agriculture and Forestry, which reports that there are no
+other crops than sugar and pineapples which can be recommended as a
+reliable industry for the territory. This is true for several important
+reasons.
+
+In the first place, from an agricultural point of view Hawaii is not a
+tropical country, and the strictly tropical crops do not find optimum
+climatic conditions. Neither has Hawaii a temperate climate, and the
+staple products of the temperate zone cannot be relied upon.
+
+The distance from the mainland markets imposes a serious handicap.
+Moreover, both inter-island and inter-community transportation is
+difficult and expensive, because Hawaii is a group of comparatively
+small, mountainous islands with very few harbours.
+
+It should be borne in mind, moreover, that the area of cultivated land
+in Hawaii is very small, the amount reclaimable still smaller, while
+the needs of a growing population must be met. This, of course, means
+intensive cultivation and a high average rate of wealth production per
+acre. In the ten-year period from 1900 to 1910, the population increased
+24.6 per cent and the area of tillable land 3.6 per cent. The census
+reports also show that Hawaii is already cultivating its land far more
+intensively than the mainland states; for example, it supports
+twenty-two times as many persons per acre of improved arable land as the
+agricultural state of North Dakota. Clearly, the problem in Hawaii is
+peculiarly difficult.
+
+It is true, also, that practically all tropical industries demand a
+plentiful supply of cheap labour. Labour in Hawaii is neither cheap nor
+plentiful. In this respect, the Islands are at a disadvantage compared
+with nearly all tropical countries, but much money has been spent on the
+industries, and the results are certainly encouraging.
+
+How to secure cheap labour has always been a serious question for the
+planters. The Bureau of Immigration was established in 1876. When the
+Reciprocity Treaty with the United States was signed, several thousand
+Portuguese were sent for by the government and the planters, and many
+of them have remained in the country and become good citizens. About the
+year 1888, however, it was decided that the Chinese and the Japanese
+should be encouraged to come, because the cost of transportation for
+them was so much less. For some years the larger part of the labourers
+were of these two nationalities. The Japanese are still far in excess of
+all others, numbering over 93,000. After annexation, when the Congress
+of the United States prohibited immigration by the yellow races, Hawaii
+was obliged to seek a supply from other sources. Filipinos, of whom
+there are only 8,000, are next in number to the Japanese; Portuguese,
+Chinese, Spaniards, and Porto Ricans stand next.
+
+After the expenses of the voyage were paid, the labourers did not always
+keep their agreement to work, so contract labour was introduced.
+Although some objections have been made to the contract system in
+Hawaii, it must have proved fairly satisfactory to both parties, for in
+those days a large number of labourers would sign a second contract on
+the same terms, showing at least that they were well treated and paid
+according to agreement.
+
+In some cases, Chinese and Japanese labourers remained in the Islands
+after their contract expired, and settled there permanently. Many of
+the Chinese became merchants. The Portuguese went into fruit raising,
+and the Japanese kept mostly to the coffee plantations. In those days,
+the Japanese had labour unions, and they were sometimes troublesome.
+
+Hawaii, owing to the lack of coal and iron and other minerals, can never
+be a manufacturing country, hence must always depend largely upon the
+United States for such goods. The Islands spend a large part of
+$60,000,000 yearly for imported articles, although, since Hawaii is a
+territory of the United States, goods received from the American
+mainland are not classified in census returns as imports.
+
+With the opening of the Panama Canal, the Hawaiian Islands are a
+necessary coaling station between the Atlantic Coast and the Far East.
+In anticipation of increased traffic, the harbours have been enlarged,
+new wharves built, a floating drydock installed, the channel widened and
+deepened in the harbour of Honolulu, breakwaters built at Hilo and
+Kahului, modern freight- and coal-handling apparatus provided, and fuel
+oil depots established.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER V
+
+IN AND OUT
+
+
+Honolulu itself the traveler may perhaps be able to see in a day, with
+American rush, while the steamer stops on the way to Japan. To take
+trips on Oahu, go surf-riding, indulge in a luau, visit the plantations,
+and make an excursion to the volcanoes in the other islands, you must
+stay at least a few weeks, so that you may really see it all and have
+time to dream of its wonderful beauties.
+
+Honolulu is the oldest, and so by far the most attractive, town in the
+Islands. Besides visits to Waikiki, the Pali, and Punchbowl, there are
+many delightful excursions on the island of Oahu. The Trail and Mountain
+Club has made excellent paths to the mountain tops, where you can get
+superb views. The lovely falls of Kaliuwaa are especially celebrated,
+while a trip to Hauula is pleasant. The coral gardens are entrancing,
+and near these one can see the largest wireless station in the Islands.
+In the great pineapple district, Wahiawa, there is a good hotel and
+fine bass fishing, and not far away is a big military camp.
+
+To-day the excursion to the other islands is made fairly comfortable on
+the steamers of the Inter-Island Navigation Company, and one can motor
+to the very brink of Kilauea. But at the time of our first visit the
+journey was something to be endured, for the sake of the wonders at the
+end. The story has been often told by travelers, yet it may be worth
+while to recount our own experiences.
+
+The trip certainly could not be recommended for pleasure in those days.
+The tiny boat was loaded down with pigs and cattle and sickly smelling
+sugar. The crossings were far worse than the English Channel, and our
+wretched little steamer reeled before the winds and tossed upon the
+waves. To add to our discomfort, the boat was by no means swift, and
+hours were consumed between the innumerable small landing-places. When
+we had the pleasure of stepping on solid earth once more, we found very
+poor hotels, if you could call them by that name, and finally, we were
+disappointed in the volcano itself, which was not active enough to suit
+us.
+
+[Illustration: LEPER COLONY, ISLAND OF MOLOKAI.]
+
+At our departure from Honolulu, we were quite covered with leis by the
+kind friends who gathered at the dock to see us off. Our boat plunged
+almost immediately into the high seas of the channel between Oahu and
+Molokai. As we passed the latter island, we had a distant view of the
+leper colony, on a triangle of level land, at the foot of a precipice
+three thousand feet high that effectually guards the patients from the
+landward side.
+
+At first the lepers resisted the attempt to banish them to the colony,
+and their relatives, who seemed to have no fear of the disease,
+concealed those who were afflicted, but this opposition decreased as the
+natives learned that the lepers were to be supported in comfort by the
+Government. They have a school, a library, newspapers, musical
+instruments, a theater, even moving-picture shows now, I am told--in
+short, everything is done to make their lives as pleasant and
+comfortable as possible.
+
+Mark Twain writes of a beautiful custom in the colony. "Would you
+expect," he says, "to find in that awful leper settlement a custom
+worthy of transplanting to your own country? When death sets open the
+prison door of life there the band salutes the very soul with a burst of
+golden music."
+
+On this island where the natives have retained their primitive habits
+and beliefs more than on the others of the group, the Poison God was
+saved at the time the idols were destroyed, a hundred years ago. It was
+kept here in charge of kahunas until near the end of the last century,
+and it is not definitely known whether it may not even now be in
+existence. This hideous image seems to have had the power to kill those
+who handled it. It has been suggested that it was made of some poisonous
+wood, and only the priests knew how to hold it without harm.
+
+The boat reeled on through another rough passage to the double island of
+Maui, consisting of two great mountain peaks joined by a low isthmus of
+lava, which by degrees filled up the channel between the two original
+islands. We made endless stops, and by means of small boats took on and
+off freight, cattle, and passengers--native, Chinese and Japanese.
+
+Our first landing was at Lahaina, once the capital of the group and the
+rendezvous for all the whaling ships in the Pacific. Now it is a
+dilapidated village, attractive only for its beautiful situation.
+
+At Wailuku, at the northern end of the isthmus, was the home of "Father
+Alexander," well known as one of the early missionaries. The name
+Wailuku means "Water of Destruction." A great battle was fought near
+here by Kamehameha the Great.
+
+Unfortunately we were unable to see the Ditch Trail, so well described
+by Jack London, or visit the famous Iao Valley, of which we had read
+such glowing descriptions. The entrance to this "gulch" is by a dark,
+wooded gorge that broadens out into an amphitheater surrounded by
+precipices as lofty as those of the Yosemite. These cliffs are covered
+with masses of trees, shrubs, and graceful, feathery ferns, which are
+veiled in turn by the mists from a thousand waterfalls. At the head of
+the valley stands the Needle, a natural watch-tower--of rock, but green
+with a luxuriant vegetation--to which the defeated army retreated in the
+battle of the Wailuku.
+
+East Maui consists entirely of the huge extinct volcano of Haleakala,
+"house built by the sun." This, the largest extinct volcano on the
+surface of the globe, lifts its enormous crater, twenty miles in
+circumference, to the height of ten thousand feet above the sea. Some
+titanic eruption blew off the top of the mountain and scooped it out to
+the depth of two thousand feet. From the bottom of this vast cavity rise
+many cones--the largest a hill of seven hundred feet--and there are two
+great gaps in the walls, through which lava flows once made their way
+down to the plain. Here and there on the desert that forms the floor of
+the crater are scattered clumps of silversword, with long leaves shining
+in the sun. This plant grows only at a high altitude. Hunting for it is
+like hunting for the edelweiss in Switzerland. Its nearest botanical
+relative is found in the Himalaya Mountains. From the highest point of
+the rim of Haleakala these plants are said to appear about the size and
+brightness of silver dollars.
+
+Glad enough we were to land at Hilo--Hawaiian for "new moon." It takes
+its name from the superb crescent of the bay, two miles in length,
+perhaps the most beautiful on the shores of the Pacific Ocean. At one
+end of the semicircle is Cocoanut Island, crowded with glorious palms
+that seem eager for the salt water, stretching their heads far out over
+it, as if they would drink it up. As it is on the windward side of the
+island, the trade winds bring Hilo a yearly rainfall of 150 inches, and
+the result is seen in the luxuriance of the vegetation, which nearly
+hides the buildings of the little city in its depths. With the bay in
+front, the dense forest belt in the rear, and the towering masses of
+Mauna Kea and Mauna Loa in the background, the situation of Hilo is
+glorious in its beauty.
+
+[Illustration: SILVERSWORD IN BLOOM, IN THE CRATER OF HALEAKALA.]
+
+On the thirty-mile trail to the crater we passed first between the
+brakes of cane plantations, then through a fine tropical forest. Among
+the trees we could see many gay and beautiful flowers, curious fruits
+and enormous tree ferns, while in the interior were lovely glades and
+the little bungalows of the coffee planters. But the island was only
+just being developed, so there were numbers of ranches in the first
+stages of raw newness.
+
+A search through the forests on some of the islands would disclose the
+beautifully coloured landshells. These exquisite little creatures grow
+on the leaves of the trees. Many of the native birds have become
+extinct; there were originally seventy varieties. Game birds, however,
+have been introduced from America and China, and from other countries
+both north and south, including wild turkeys, quail, pheasants and
+ducks.
+
+We arrived at the crater late at night, to find only a miserable hotel
+with a drunken proprietor. (Liars had told us it was good.) We were
+forced to pass the night there, but stayed the next day only long enough
+to visit the crater.
+
+Kilauea was for us a great disappointment. It is not imposing in its
+situation, lying low on the gradual slope of Mauna Loa. We had been
+thrilled by pictures of the great pit of Halemaumau, the "house of
+everlasting fire."[10] We had read of fountains of fire thrown a
+thousand feet into the air, of great fissures from which burst clouds of
+deadly sulphurous vapours, of indescribable terrors as huge billows of
+glowing lava surged against the rim of the pit, of changing colours,
+marvelous beauty, of ropes and serpents of cooling rock in a myriad
+writhing and contorted shapes, of raging floods pouring down to the
+plain in rivers of fire from one-half to two miles in width. But alas!
+none of these wonders were for us. We saw only a far-stretching lake of
+cold, black lava, over which we could walk for miles, as safe as if we
+were at home. Out of a pit in the center rose a column of white
+vapour--which did not even smell infernal. Pele was sleeping.
+
+We had three days to wait in Hilo until our steamer should be ready to
+return to Honolulu. The hotel was a funny little one, near the sea, but
+we were fairly comfortable, and amused ourselves in various ways. For
+one thing, we tried several of the delicious tropical fruits that were
+to be had here--water-lemons, mangoes, papayas, mountain apples and
+guavas. We went on a picnic, and some one was kind enough to lend me a
+riding habit and a pony that had won some races. I rode astride, in
+native fashion. This was my first but by no means my last experience of
+this most natural and comfortable mode of riding. Then I had an old
+native woman to _lomi-lomi_ me--Hawaiian for massage--as I was very lame
+from my long rides, and I was as much amused by her as benefited by her
+treatment.
+
+[Illustration: FIRE HOLE, KILAUEA.]
+
+We decided this was our opportunity to see a hula, and asked the
+coachman at the hotel to make arrangements for us at a native house. As
+part of the preparations, he gave the performers some wine, so the dance
+was in full swing when we arrived. They had made leis, which they put on
+us and also on themselves. A fat but good looking native woman in a
+holoku danced, while some others played. Another pretty native woman
+said she was dying to dance, but her husband, a white man, was not
+willing, and the last time she did it he beat her, so she did not dare
+to try again. It was a strange scene--the native house, the dim lights,
+and the wild, suggestive dance.
+
+The trip back to Honolulu, though only two hundred miles in length,
+occupied two nights and a day of rough and tumble sailing, after which
+we were happy to get to our bungalow and Chinaman once more.
+
+Now, the Inter-Island boats leave Honolulu twice a week for Hilo and
+once a week for Kona and Kau, on the lee side of the island. It is quite
+a different trip from that in the old days. On the way to Hilo the first
+landing is usually at Kawaihae, an insignificant village, of no interest
+except for the great heiau of Kamehameha I, the last heathen temple
+erected in the Islands, dating from 1791. It is over two hundred feet
+long and one hundred feet wide, and the walls are twelve feet thick at
+the base. When this temple was dedicated to the favourite war-god of the
+King, besides vast quantities of fruit and great numbers of hogs and
+dogs, eleven human beings were sacrificed on the altar.
+
+Hilo is to-day a modern city of 10,000 people, and the shipping point
+for all the sugar raised on the windward side of the island. A
+breakwater now in process of construction will make its harbour a
+perfectly safe anchorage for merchant ships.
+
+One may make the entire circuit of the island by motor from Hilo. On a
+branch road from the highway to Kilauea is Green Lake, an emerald-tinted
+sheet of water occupying an old crater. In the forest surrounding this
+lake the rare pink begonia, an exquisite plant, used to grow, but I am
+told by Mr. Castle it has become extinct.
+
+Continuing to the southwest, the road passes through the district of Kau
+to Kona. Here, indeed, is the "Paradise of the Pacific." Protected from
+the trade winds by the huge mountain masses of Mauna Loa and Hualalai,
+it enjoys mild breezes from the west, which blow in from the sea all day
+long but give place at sunset to a wind from the mountain that cools the
+night. The Hawaiians have a saying that in Kona "people never die; they
+dry up and blow away." Daily showers toward sunset and at night keep the
+vegetation ever fresh and green, and make this a rich agricultural
+region.
+
+Honaunau, in Kona, contains the largest of the "cities of refuge," in
+the walls of which are stones weighing several tons raised as high as
+six feet from the ground. Within these massive walls were three large
+heiaus, also houses for the priests and refugees. The gates were always
+open, and the fugitive who had crossed the threshold was absolutely
+safe. Old men, women, little children, defeated soldiers, all were
+received here, and when once the great gods had taken them under their
+protection, they were safe even, when they returned to their homes.
+
+It was on the coast of Kona, at Kaawaloa, that Captain Cook was killed
+by the natives. A monument has been erected there, which bears this
+inscription: "In Memory of the Great Circumnavigator Captain James Cook,
+R. N., who discovered these islands on the 18th of January, A. D. 1778,
+and fell near this spot on the 14th of February, A. D. 1779. This
+monument was erected in November, A. D. 1874, by some of his fellow
+countrymen."
+
+At Kailua, a seashore village further north, is the old palace of the
+kings of the islands. This is far from imposing in its appearance. At
+this place one may watch a primitive method of shipping cattle. With
+their horns tied to the side of a rowboat, the poor creatures are
+dragged through the water to the steamer, then are hoisted on board by
+pulleys.
+
+The road passes next through the Kohala district, in which the town of
+that name is of interest as the birthplace of Kamehameha the Great. The
+Kohala ditch, twenty-five miles long, brings water from the mountains to
+the sugar plantations, fifteen miles of the way through tunnels. One may
+leave the main road here and take a horseback ride along this ditch,
+from which one can enjoy the magnificent scenery of the Waipio and
+Waimanu valleys, enormous "gulches," separated by sheer precipices
+hundreds of feet in height.
+
+[Illustration: ON THE SHORES OF KAUAI, THE "GARDEN ISLAND."]
+
+The trip to Kauai, the "Garden Island," from Honolulu, requires but a
+single night, but is a rough passage. At Waimea Captain Cook made his
+first landing on the Islands. Here, too, is the ruined fort built by a
+Russian trader, and over which the Russian flag was raised.
+
+The trip through the Waimea Gulch, which is called a miniature Grand
+Canyon of the Colorado, rewards the traveler with magnificent scenery.
+At the deepest part the cliffs are 3,000 feet high and the valley is a
+mile in width. It is said that "in the decomposing rocks the colours are
+as vivid as though volcanic fires were still at work."
+
+On the shore, at the extreme western point of the island, are the
+Barking Sands, a row of sand dunes. "The wind on the sands makes them
+rustle like silk; to slide down them produces a sound like thunder; to
+stamp on them makes them cry out in different cadences." Not far away is
+an old bathing beach, where a bath was supposed to bring good luck.
+
+At Hanalei River is one of the most ancient of the deep-water fish
+ponds. According to an old tradition, this was built in a single night
+by Menehunes, a mythical race of dwarfs, who were noted for their
+industry and mechanical skill and their feats of engineering.
+
+Everywhere one is struck by the preponderance of Japanese among the
+inhabitants. Since this great war broke out, Japan has taken from
+Germany the Ladrone Islands, just north of Guam, on the way to the
+Philippines. She has also taken the Marshall Islands, which bring her
+outposts fifteen hundred miles nearer to the Pacific coast of America.
+If we are inclined to be a bit pessimistic over the future fate of
+Hawaii, perhaps a piece of recent news from Nippon may encourage us.
+
+Japan has just passed a law permitting Japanese to become American
+citizens. As nearly half the present inhabitants of the Islands are
+Japanese and 4,000 Japanese children are born there in a year, this is
+an interesting consideration when difficulties between Japan and America
+are talked of. The Japanese-American Citizens' Association was organized
+by a few Japanese who are citizens by right of birth, and has grown to a
+membership of more than fifteen hundred. It takes an interest in
+municipal affairs, discusses the questions of the day, and teaches young
+Hawaiian-born Japanese the principles and duties of good citizenship.
+Rev. S. Sokabe, of Honolulu, gives its members the following advice:
+
+"Hawaiian-born Japanese have a great mission to-day. The Japanese of
+Hawaii must become the pacificators should trouble come between Japan
+and America.... You owe it to yourselves to do this. Learn to be good
+American citizens, and then you will be able to help in case of trouble.
+You can do more to keep peace than ambassadors and ministers.... If
+trouble should come with Japan, you must remember that you are the sons
+of the President, not the sons of the Emperor."
+
+Under the old Japanese law Japanese born in Hawaii were still subjects
+of Japan. Under the law lately enacted by the Diet and House of Peers of
+Japan, which went into effect June 1, 1916, all Japanese born in a
+foreign country have the right at the age of fifteen to decide whether
+they will become subjects of Japan or of the country of their birth;
+they must, however, first get the consent of their parents before giving
+up their citizenship in Japan.
+
+Patriotic Americans should no longer think of Hawaii as she was eighteen
+years ago at the time of annexation. Then the Japanese labourer on the
+sugar plantations was an alien and un-American. Now he is a factor and
+his children a greater factor in the American civilization of the
+Pacific!
+
+Moreover, to show how American and patriotic most of the islanders are,
+I give an account of the celebration of Washington's Birthday, when a
+splendid parade took place. It included the military and naval forces of
+the Islands, as well as Hawaiians, Chinese and Japanese--all helping to
+make it a success.
+
+The native police led the procession on horseback. In quick succession
+the troops of the cavalry rode by, saluting the Governor as they passed
+the reviewing stand. The First Field Artillery followed, with their
+guns. Then the "Dough Boys"--as the infantry men are called--companies
+from the Second and the Twentieth United States Infantry; after these
+came the bluejackets from the four United States warships lying in the
+harbour, with their field pieces, each manned by a gun crew; then the
+marines and the Red Cross brigade. The cadets of the school for young
+Hawaiians and the National Guard of Hawaii presented a fine military
+appearance.
+
+One of King Kalakaua's descendants, Prince Kuhio, and his brother's son,
+little Prince Kalakaua, were among the leaders; also the so-called
+Island Princesses, all on horseback. They were chosen to represent the
+five large islands, and had escorts of young girls on horseback dressed
+in the pau, followed by some lively cowboys on ponies.
+
+Then came the floats, from which confetti were thrown. One float
+represented an elaborate tableau of a battle between the new Chinese
+republic and the old Manchu dynasty. Some took the part of the new army
+with their modern uniforms, and others in the old costumes lay very
+realistically dead behind their guns.
+
+As evening came on the Japanese people began to assemble in the park
+down in the Oriental quarter, and from there marched to the palace
+grounds, then past the four American battleships at the docks, where
+they gave their _banzai_ for the sailors, and were given in return a
+hearty American "three cheers," showing the good feeling between the two
+countries.
+
+In view of the strategic value of the Islands, which, for more than
+fifty years, American naval officers have endeavoured to impress upon
+our Government, it is pleasant to learn of the loyalty and whole-hearted
+Americanism of the people of Hawaii. If Oahu, Guam and the Panama Canal
+are well fortified and sufficient numbers of troops and warships are
+stationed at these posts they will protect our Pacific coast better
+than any number of harbour defenses.
+
+And now, with the banzai of these newest Americans ringing in our ears,
+we must say our "_Aloha_," to these dream Islands, almost too perfect to
+be real. We say farewell, but the Spell of Hawaii will always be upon
+us.
+
+
+
+
+[Illustration: PHILIPPINE ISLANDS]
+
+
+
+
+THE PHILIPPINES
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER I
+
+MANILA AS WE FOUND IT
+
+
+High on the bridge of the Pacific Mail Steamer _Siberia_ we stood as we
+passed through the Boca Chica--the narrow channel--into the historic
+waters of Manila Bay. On one side was the mountainous island of
+Corregidor, rising steeply out of the sea and masking in its tropic
+growth many batteries and guns, on the other was the splendid mountain,
+Mariveles, and in the distance fine ranges rising from the sparkling
+ocean. Far away on the horizon, across the huge bay, lay Manila, the
+capital of the Philippine Islands.
+
+Three weeks before we had left Hawaii, two days later we had steamed by
+Midway Island. Then we passed a few days in Japan, and coasted along the
+superb island of Formosa, rightly named "the beautiful"--where great
+mountains dipped down into the still sea--and now we were entering the
+Philippines, the real objective point of the official party--there were
+eight of us--in which we were so fortunate as to be included. We were
+at last going to see the interesting results of Spanish rule for three
+centuries, upon which were being grafted all the energy and scientific
+and social knowledge of the twentieth-century American.
+
+Although both Hawaii and the Philippines are under American rule, they
+are like different worlds. The Land of the Palm and Pine is a much
+bigger problem for the United States than Hawaii. The latter is nearer
+home, a smaller group of islands, and is quite Americanized. It is the
+commercial hub of the Pacific, an important coaling station, an outlying
+protection for the California coast. The natives are of Polynesian
+extraction and American education; they are quite unlike the Filipinos
+in character, who are Malaysian and have had centuries of Spanish
+influence. The Filipinos clamour for independence, the Moros and the
+wild tribes must be carefully handled, while the Hawaiian is contented
+with his lot. Besides the necessity of maintaining an army in the
+Philippines so far from home, one hundred and one other difficulties are
+to be considered. With these facts in mind, we looked forward to
+interesting experiences in the Islands, and we were not disappointed.
+
+[Illustration: GOVERNOR GENERAL CAMERON FORBES.]
+
+As we approached Manila, some small scout boats, all flag bedecked,
+came out and joined us, and fell in behind in procession, then larger
+boats, one bringing the excellent Constabulary Band, which played gaily.
+Another, which had officials on board, exchanged greetings with us
+across the water, and others with unofficial people added their welcome.
+Quarantine was made easy, and all difficulties with customs officials
+were spared us. When we reached the dock it was massed with the people
+who had landed from the boats and with crowds from the town.
+
+At once Governor General Cameron Forbes came on board to greet the
+Secretary of War, and then followed a reception, the guests ranging from
+the apostolic delegate in his robes, the consular officials and insular
+officers, and the army and navy in spotless gold-braided uniforms, to
+the leading citizens, very intelligent looking and well mannered, and
+members of the Assembly. The dock was lined with troops, who paid the
+military honours.
+
+After the reception on shipboard the Secretary and Mrs. Dickinson and
+the official members of the party were whirled off in autos, with a
+squadron of cavalry clattering along as escort. Another motor was
+waiting for us, and we soon joined the procession as it moved to the
+palace.
+
+We were much interested in the sights in the streets. There were
+numbers of _carromatos_, little covered two-wheeled carriages, drawn by
+stocky Filipino ponies. The streets in this part of the town are wide,
+and the houses have overhanging balconies, in Spanish style. In honour
+of the Secretary, the buildings were draped with flags. Near the wharf
+the land had lately been filled in, and great docks were in
+construction. There was a new boulevard near the old Luneta, and an
+avenue named after President Taft, besides a big hotel and a hospital
+that had then just been finished. The harbour was filled with vessels,
+electric cars were running, and autos were to be seen, so at first it
+all looked quite up to date, until you met a carabao slowly swaying down
+the street, hitched to a two-wheeled cart, with a brown boy in red
+trousers, _piña_ shirt and a big straw hat sitting on his back--"carry
+boy," as Secretary Dickinson named the animal. The "carry boys" do not
+like white people, and sometimes charge them, stamping and goring them
+with their horns, but a small Filipino boy seems to have perfect control
+of them, and if they are allowed occasionally to wade in a puddle, which
+cools them off, they do not "go _loco_," or crazy.
+
+It was in the palace of Malacañan, or Government House, as it is
+sometimes called, that Secretary and Mrs. Dickinson and ourselves
+stayed with the Governor General. This is a large, rambling structure in
+a garden by the Pasig River. Under the porte-cochère we entered a stone
+hall, off which were offices, then went up a long flight of stairs to a
+big hall looking into a court. This hall was hung with oil paintings of
+Spanish governors, quite well done by native artists, and in the center
+stood a huge one-piece table of superb _nara_ wood, covered with
+gleaming head-axes and spears, _bolos_, _krisses_, _campilans_, and
+_lantankas_, used by the wild tribes and Moros.
+
+Our rooms were large and empty, as was the entire palace--indeed, so are
+all the houses on account of the heat. The polished floors, too, are
+made of huge planks, sometimes of such valuable tropical woods as
+rosewood and mahogany, and are left bare. It took a little time to
+accustom ourselves to the hard beds with rattan bottoms, covered only by
+two sheets. They were carved and four-posted, and draped with mosquito
+netting. Two little brown lizards squeaked at us in a friendly manner,
+and crept down the walls, out of curiosity, no doubt, little ants kept
+busily crawling across the room in a line, and the mosquitoes that hid
+in my clothes in the rack during the daytime buzzed about at night. The
+heat was great, notwithstanding the electric fan, but the sliding
+screens that formed the sides of the room gave us some relief. These
+shutters are like Japanese _shoji_, made of small panes of an opalescent
+shell to soften the intensity of tropic sunlight, with green slit bamboo
+shades pulled halfway down.
+
+When I used to write or read I sat on my rattan bed under the mosquito
+netting; there I could look out of the parted sides of the house to the
+red hibiscus border of the garden stretching along the narrow Pasig.
+Boatmen, in conical straw hats, perched at the ends of their _bancas_,
+paddled the hollowed-out logs rapidly through the water, or floated idly
+by, smoking their cigarettes; these boats were loaded to the gunwale
+with green grasses, and had canopies of matted straw. Launches, too,
+came chugging past, towing the big high poops covered with
+straw-screened _cascos_. Over beyond the river was a flat all in a green
+tangle, with the thatched _nipa_ houses on their stilts. For the palace
+stands outside the more thickly settled parts of the city, which in turn
+surround the walled town.
+
+[Illustration: _The Pasig River_]
+
+Manila to-day is a curious mixture of native _nipa_ shacks and old
+Spanish churches and forts with the up-to-date American buildings and
+improvements. There are the different quarters, as in all cities of
+the Orient--Chinese, native and so on--and each has its own distinctive
+sights. The street smells, which are never lacking in a city, reminded
+us of India.
+
+The walled city has picturesque gates breaking through the old gray
+battlements--the massive wall was begun in 1590--and ancient sentry
+houses at the corners, while behind rise the white balconies of old
+convents and monasteries, and buildings now used for government
+purposes, and towers of churches. The old moats have been filled up for
+sanitary reasons and are being made into wide sweeps of lawn and flower
+gardens, and the famous Malecon, the drive beneath the city walls, which
+was once upon the sea front, has been removed too far inland by the
+filling of the harbour to retain its old charm.
+
+"Intramuros" (within the walls) more than half the land belongs to the
+Church, and church buildings abound. These are really inferior, compared
+with those we saw in Mexico, but some of them are very old. The
+Augustinian Church, finished in 1605, has enormously thick walls and a
+stone crypt of marvelous strength.
+
+In the center of the town is Plaza McKinley, but the main business
+street is the narrow Escolta, made to look still narrower by the
+overhanging second stories of the buildings.
+
+We visited the botanical gardens, a shaded park with winding paths
+beneath acacias and mango trees. We drove, too, through the narrow
+streets of the suburb of San Miguel, where we looked into tangled
+gardens of tropical plants, behind which were houses with broad verandas
+and wide-opening sides, covered by a wonderful screen of a sort of mauve
+morning glory, which blooms, however, all day long.
+
+The native houses are built of bamboo with braided grass walls and
+thatched roofs, and are raised on stilts because of the rainy season. We
+went to order some embroidery one day of a Tagalog woman. Climbing a
+ladder into a small house, we saw the whole family sitting on the floor,
+working over a long frame. In some of these shacks they have a small
+room for visitors, with chairs and a table, and cheap prints of the
+Virgin on the walls. Under the house are kept usually a pig and a pony.
+One woman was very successful--she not only had waist patterns to show
+and to sell, but had a standing order from Marshall Field, in Chicago.
+We also visited a still more prosperous embroidery house, built of
+stucco, with a courtyard. These people were Spanish _mestizos_.
+
+A visit to the cigarette factory to which we were taken by Mr. Legarda
+showed us one of the characteristic industries of the city and gave us
+an idea of the deftness and quickness of those who are employed in this
+work. The little women who pack the cigarettes can pick up a number of
+them and tell in a twinkle by the feeling just how many they hold, and
+the cigar wrappers work with greatest rapidity and sureness and make a
+perfect product. It was all very clean and fresh, with hundreds of
+employees in the large, airy rooms. A band played as we went through the
+building, and we had a generous luncheon and received innumerable
+presents from the managers.
+
+Opportunity was given us for sundry little exploring trips into the
+suburbs of Manila.[11] We rode on horseback, in company with Secretary
+Dickinson, Governor Forbes and General Edwards, among little native
+shacks, through overgrown lanes beyond the city, and along the beach,
+where we saw fishermen's huts and men mending their nets, to the Polo
+Club. The Governor, who was most generous in giving money of his own to
+benefit the Islands, not only built the clubhouse and laid out the field
+at his own expense, but even imported Arabian horses and good Western
+ponies. This club is a fine thing to keep army officers in good
+condition and give them exercise and amusement, as well as to bring good
+horses into the Islands. The clubhouse, of plaited grasses, bamboo and
+wood, is on the edge of the beach, from which one can see the beautiful
+sunsets across the bay and catch the faint line of the mountains in the
+distance. It all seemed very far-away and tropical and enchanting.
+
+The English-speaking residents of Manila have various other clubs, among
+which the Army and Navy, the English, and the University are perhaps the
+most important. The Officers' Club, at Fort McKinley (seven miles from
+Manila) has a superb situation, commanding a fine view of the mountains.
+
+As we landed in Manila early Sunday morning, we were in time for service
+in the Episcopal cathedral, which had just been built. This is a
+handsome building in the Spanish style, large and airy, with an
+effective altar. It was erected by an American friend of Bishop Brent,
+the Episcopal bishop, who has done fine work in the Islands. According
+to a story that is related of this good man, he made a journey at one
+time into the interior of Luzon, where he found the natives sadly in
+need of instruction in ways of personal cleanliness. As soon as he
+reached the mail service again, he wrote to America for a ton of soap,
+which was duly shipped to him and used for the purification of the
+aborigines.
+
+I was glad to visit also Bishop Brent's orphan school, consisting
+principally of American-mestizo children. The native women, when
+deserted by their white lovers, generally marry natives, who often
+ill-treat these half-white children, and sometimes sell them as slaves.
+Miss Sibley, of Detroit, was in charge of this school, which was in a
+big, comfortable house near the native shacks on the edge of the town,
+and had twelve pupils at that time.
+
+A convent of Spanish nuns on a small island in the river, interested me
+greatly. It was then under the supervision of the government, for it was
+at that time not only a convent but also a poorhouse, a school for
+orphans, an asylum for insane men and women, and a reformatory for bad
+boys. The embroidery done at the convent was better than that made by
+the natives in their houses, as the thread used was finer. The nuns
+charged more than the natives, but they would also cut and sew, thus
+finishing the garments. Articles embroidered by native women were never
+made up by them, but had to be taken to a Chinese tailor.
+
+The linen must first be bought, however, so I tried to do a little
+shopping in the city, but found it very unsatisfactory. The shops are
+poor, and, as one traveler has said, you can get nothing you want in
+them, but plenty of things you don't want, for which you can pay a very
+high price.
+
+One day I was taken to a cockpit, where a cockfight was to come off.
+This is one of the characteristic amusements of the Filipinos, which
+they have engaged in since the year 1500. It is so popular that it would
+be difficult to put a stop to it all at once, but it has been restricted
+by the government to Sundays and legal holidays, which is something of a
+victory. (They are also passionately fond of horse racing, in regard to
+which other restrictions have been made.) Outside, beggars, old and
+blind, were crawling over the ground; natives strolled around, petting
+their birds, which they carried under their arms; and vendors with dirty
+trays of sweetmeats wandered about. We bought our tickets and passed
+into the rickety amphitheater.
+
+Cocks were crowing, and such a howling as went on, the audience all
+looking toward us as we entered. It seemed as if they were angry with us
+for stepping into the arena, and yet there was no other way to reach the
+seats. Our guides pointed to a shaky ladder that led into a gallery, but
+we preferred to sit far back in the chairs about the pit. There were
+natives, Chinese, and mestizos present. We soon discovered that they
+were not angry with us, but we had entered at a moment when the betting
+was going on, and the cocks in the ring were so popular that there was
+great excitement.
+
+Each cock was allowed to peck the neck of the other and get a taste of
+blood, while they were still held under their owners' arms. The fighting
+cocks did not look quite like ours. They were armed for the fray with
+sharp "slashers" attached to their spurs. When the betting had subsided
+the cocks were left to themselves in the ring, and they generally went
+for each other at once. What a hopping and scuttling! Feathers flew, the
+crowd cheered, and the cocks went at each other again and again until
+they were hurt or killed. The referee then decided upon the victor.
+Sometimes the cocks did not seem to interest the crowd, and then their
+owners would take them out of the ring before fighting; at times the
+cocks refused to fight. It was not so exciting as I had expected, and
+when we considered that the birds were to be eaten anyway, it did not
+seem so cruel and terrible as I thought it would.
+
+Speaking of cocks being eaten, the principal foods of the Filipinos are
+fowls and eggs, as well as rice, fish and carabao meat, but as the
+"carry-boys" are good workers they are not often eaten. Pigs are kept by
+the Filipinos, and are put on a raised platform for about six weeks
+before killing, so as to keep them clean and fatten them with good food.
+Salads, crawfish and trout, as well as cocoanut milk, red wine and wild
+coffee, are among the things they live on. Army people in the Islands
+often have, in addition, wild deer and wild boar which are shot by the
+American officers, besides excellent game birds, such as the minor
+bustard, jungle fowl, wild chicken, quail, snipe and duck.
+
+[Illustration: MALACAÑAN PALACE.]
+
+I was asked to receive with the Secretary and Mrs. Dickinson and General
+and Mrs. Edwards, at the Governor General's reception at Malacañan,
+where we stood in line and shook hands with some seventeen hundred
+persons. It was a remarkable scene. The palace, which opens up
+handsomely, and the terrace overhanging the river, were outlined by a
+myriad electric lights, while launches came and went with guests, and
+the Philippine Constabulary Band played in the interior court. The papal
+delegate was there in his canonicals, with his accompanying monsignors,
+and barefooted friars in cowls. There were foreign consuls in their
+uniforms, and many Filipina women, with pretty manners and dainty ways,
+some in their native dress, which is so quaint and gaily coloured.
+Insurrecto generals came, too, who looked like young boys, and members
+of the high courts, very wise and dignified.
+
+After most of the guests had arrived, there was a _rigodon_ of honour,
+in which all took part. The rigodon is the dance of the Filipinos, and
+of so much importance to them that it was considered essential that the
+Secretary and his party should be able to join in it. Accordingly, we
+had all practised it on the ship before reaching Manila. It is said that
+ex-President Taft won much of his way into the hearts of these island
+people by his skill and evident delight in this dance, which is
+something like a graceful and dignified quadrille, with much movement
+and turning.
+
+To show that traveling in an official party is not "all play and no
+work," I may just note the program carried out by the men on the day
+following this reception. Rising at six o'clock and taking an early
+breakfast, they went on board the commanding general's yacht and cruised
+across Manila Bay to visit the new defenses on the island of Corregidor,
+which rises a sheer five hundred feet out of the water. For hours they
+moved from one place to another in the heat, inspecting huge guns and
+mortars and barracks and storehouses, all hidden away so as not to be
+seen from the sea, although great gashes in the cliffs showed where the
+trolley roads and the inclined planes ran. It is really the key to our
+possessions in the Far East. Thousands of men were working like ants all
+over the place. It was two o'clock before the party reached the tip-top,
+where they had a stand-up luncheon at the quarters of the commanding
+officer. Then they came back to the yacht, and fairly tumbled down just
+wherever they happened to be for a siesta. They were then taken to
+Cavite, ten miles away, which is one of the two naval stations. There
+they landed again and visited the picturesque old Spanish fortifications
+and the quarters.
+
+[Illustration: MRS. ANDERSON IN FILIPINA COSTUME.]
+
+A _baile_, or ball, was given in honour of the Secretary by the
+Philippine Assembly, at their official building, where all the ladies of
+our party wore the Filipina dress. This is ordinarily made of piña
+cloth, a cheap, gauzy material, manufactured from pineapple fiber. The
+waist, called _camisa_, is made with winglike sleeves and a stiff
+kerchief-like collar, named _panuela_. The skirt may be of any material,
+quite often a handsome brocade, and among the Tagalogs a black silk
+open-work apron finishes the costume. The white suits and uniforms of
+the men and the bright-coloured dresses made this ball a gay and lively
+scene. The band played incessantly, and after the Secretary and Mrs.
+Dickinson had stopped receiving at the head of the stairs, there was a
+rigodon, which we all danced in as stately a manner as we could. But my
+most vivid recollection of the ball is of the heat and the pink
+lemonade, which poisoned a hundred people and made me deadly ill all
+that night.
+
+The Governor General gave a big dinner for the Secretary of War at the
+palace one evening. We assisted also at the opening of the new
+theater--which is called the finest in the Far East--at which Marshall
+Darrach gave recitations from Shakespeare. I must not forget the gala
+performance at the new theater, too, which was arranged by the society
+people of the city. All the performers were amateurs, so we rather
+dreaded the evening, which promised to be interminable, but everything
+was so good that the time passed quickly. The little ladies sang quite
+acceptably, and played the violin and the piano; and a lot of tiny tots,
+children of the best people, gave an amusing vaudeville that really was
+exceedingly funny and was much applauded. We could hardly believe that
+it was all amateur.
+
+The Government Dormitory for Girls, which we visited, I found most
+interesting. There were one hundred and fifty, eight sleeping in each
+room. These girls came from different provinces all over the Islands. As
+there are so many distinct dialects, some of them could understand one
+another only in English, and no other language is allowed to be spoken.
+One of the girls made a speech in English welcoming the Secretary and
+did it extremely well. Having learned, among other things, to cook, they
+gave us delicious tea and cakes and candies on a half-open veranda among
+the vines and Japanese lanterns. Some were taking the nurses' course,
+which seemed to be the most popular. These pretty girls danced for us in
+their stiff, bright-coloured costumes, swaying and waving their hands,
+and turning and twirling in their languid but dignified manner. It
+appeared to be a mixture of a Spanish and a native dance, and was
+altogether quite charming.
+
+A morning with Mr. Worcester at the Bureau of Science was most
+delightful. This bureau is so much more than a museum of scientific
+specimens that I cannot begin to do justice to it in a single paragraph.
+It was started at first as a Bureau of Government Laboratories in charge
+of the chemical and biological work of the government, the departments
+of zoölogical and botanical research were subsequently added, and
+finally the Bureau of Ethnology and the Bureau of Mines were
+incorporated with it. Not only were all these departments coördinated
+under one head, preventing overlapping and securing economy and
+efficiency of administration, but this work was correlated with that of
+the Philippine General Hospital and the College of Medicine and Surgery.
+When this comprehensive plan was formed all the scientific work of the
+government was carried on in "a hot little shack," and the scheme was
+commonly referred to as "Worcester's Dream," but at the time of our
+visit the dream had come true. The departments were manned by thoroughly
+trained men from the States, and the Bureau of Science was one of the
+world's greatest scientific institutions.
+
+The Philippine Bureau of Science "is now dead." When the Democratic
+Administration took charge it was announced that all theoretical
+departments, such as ethnology, botany, ornithology, photography and
+entomology (!) were to be "reduced or eliminated." It was afterward made
+plain that all work which was considered practical would be continued,
+but the mischief had been done, the men who made the institution had
+left, and under present conditions it is impossible to secure others who
+are equally competent in their place. Our only consolation is to be
+derived, as Mr. Worcester himself says, "from contemplating the fact
+that pendulums swing."
+
+Though so recently established, the museum contained in 1910 a wonderful
+exhibit of the plants and animals of the Islands. We took a peep into
+the butterfly room, where we admired some rare and lovely ones with a
+feathery velvet sheen the colour of the sea. We saw also the huge brown
+Atlas moth touched with coral, like a cashmere shawl, with eyes of
+mother-of-pearl on his wings. We noticed that the females were larger
+than the males, and even those of the same variety often differed
+greatly in colour. In one case a female was big, and brown and violet
+in colour, while her mate was small, and blue and yellow.
+
+In the next room were beetles, some of which were like the matrix of
+turquoise, and others had shimmering, changeable shades of green and
+bronze. There were beetles like small turtles, and long, horned beetles
+like miniature carabaos.
+
+Afterward we visited the birds. Bright-coloured sun birds, with long
+beaks, which feed on the honey of flowers; clever tailor birds, small
+and brown, with green heads and gray breasts, which sew leaves together
+with vegetable fiber to make their nests; birds of whose nests the
+Chinese make their famous soup, and the blue kingfishers, of whose
+brilliant feathers these same Chinese make jewelry; fire-breasted birds,
+too, and five-coloured birds. There were birds that build their nest
+four feet or more under the ground, and hornbills, that wall up their
+wives in holes in the trees while they are hatching their eggs, the
+males bringing them food and dropping it through a small opening. There,
+too, I saw the fairy bluebird.
+
+Near by, we visited an orchid garden, and passed under gates and bamboo
+trellises dripping with every kind of orchid. The Philippines are the
+paradise of these remarkable plants, and many are the adventures that
+collectors of them have had in the interior of these Islands.
+
+Then we passed into the Jesuit chapel and museum. We were greeted at the
+door by several black-robed priests, who smiled and bowed and talked all
+at once. They escorted us first to the museum, where there were cases of
+shells--heart-shaped shells, trumpet shells, scalloped shells big enough
+for a bathtub--all kinds of shells, and the paper nautilus, which is not
+a shell but an egg case. Then there were land shells, polished red and
+green, Venus' flower baskets, exquisite glass sponges, corals of all
+kinds--fine branches of the red and the white--and an enormous turtle
+that weighed fifteen hundred pounds.
+
+In the cases at the side of the room were animals of the country--flying
+monkeys, with sucking pads on their toes to help them climb the trees,
+big, furry bats and flying lizards. A tiny buffalo, which was discovered
+only a few years ago up in the hills, and a small spotted deer were in
+the collection. A big monkey-catching eagle, white and brown, was here,
+and the paroquet that carries leaves for her nest in her red tail, as
+well as a pigeon with ruffs of green and blue about her neck, and a
+bald crown, which was caused, the natives say, by flying so high that
+her head hit the sky.
+
+Numerous entertainments and receptions were crowded into that too short
+visit to Manila. July 25th had been declared a national holiday. A
+musical program was given in honour of the Secretary by five thousand
+Manila school children. One afternoon Mrs. Dickinson received some of
+the Filipina ladies, who sang and played on the piano quite well.
+
+Another day the officers and ladies at Fort McKinley entertained the
+party at luncheon at the Officers' Club. Before luncheon there was a
+military review in which the troops from all over the islands
+participated, followed by some good shell firing out in the chaparral,
+as under war conditions, and a display of wireless work. A special drill
+was given by Captain Tom Anderson--the son of General Anderson--whose
+company was one of the best drilled in the army, and went through the
+manual and marching with only one order given, counting to themselves in
+silence the whole seventeen hundred counts, all in perfect unison.[12]
+
+In the Secretary of War's speech that afternoon he took occasion to say,
+"General Duvall, you have not said too much in favour of the Army. You
+have not overdrawn the picture, for a steadier moving column or brighter
+eyed men and a more soldierly set of men I have never seen anywhere."
+
+The reception by General and Mrs. Duvall was a brilliant affair, chiefly
+of the army and navy. The handsome house with its wide verandas stood in
+a garden overlooking Manila Bay.
+
+On the Luneta there was, one evening, the largest gathering that had
+assembled on that historic plaza since the days of the "Empire," for the
+Secretary of War was expected to be there. The people hoped that he
+brought with him a proclamation of immediate independence to be
+announced at that time. The Luneta had once been at the edge of the
+water, but a great space had been filled in beyond it, and buildings
+were going up--a large hotel, which would make all the difference in the
+world to tourist travel in the Philippines, and a huge Army and Navy
+Club--so that it was planned to remove the Luneta farther out some day,
+again to the water's edge. On this particular evening, the oval park was
+crowded with picturesque people, almost all the men in white, the
+soldiers in their trig khaki, and the women in their gaily coloured
+dresses and panuelas. Rows of carriages circled round and round, as the
+two bands played alternately. After a time we left our automobiles and
+walked in the throng. A magnificent sunset was followed by the gorgeous
+tints of the afterglow, and dusk came on and evening fell while we
+watched and were watched. Soon a thousand electric lights, that were
+carried in rows around the plaza and over the kiosks of the bands,
+sparkled out in the darkness. The beauty of the scene, the animation of
+the crowd, driving or walking in groups, and the refreshing coolness
+after the heat of the day, made this a lasting memory.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER II
+
+THE PHILIPPINES OF THE PAST
+
+
+How have the Philippines come to present such a unique combination of
+Spanish and Malay civilization? Let us look into their past. We find for
+the early days myths and legends, preserved by oral tradition. Two
+quaint stories told by the primitive mountain people, which show how
+they believe the Islands first came into being and how the first man and
+woman entered into this world, are worth transcribing for their naïve
+simplicity:
+
+"A long time ago there was no land. There were only the sea and the sky.
+A bird was flying in the sky. It grew tired flying. It wanted something
+to rest upon. The bird was very cunning. It set the sea and sky to
+quarreling. The sea threw water up at the sky. The sky turned very dark
+and angry. Then the angry sky showered down upon the sea all the
+Islands. That is how the Islands came."
+
+This second tale is even more child-like:
+
+"A great bamboo grew on one of the Islands. It was very large around,
+larger than any of the others. The bird lit on the ground and began to
+peck the bamboo. A voice inside said, 'Peck harder, peck harder.' The
+bird was frightened at first, but it wanted to know what was inside. So
+it pecked and pecked. Still the voice said, 'Peck harder, peck harder.'
+At last a great crack split the bamboo from the bottom to the top. Out
+stepped a man and a woman. The bird was so frightened that it flew away.
+The man bowed very low to the woman, for they had lived in different
+joints of the bamboo and had never seen each other before. They were the
+first man and woman in the world."
+
+These natives believe there are good and evil spirits, and they invoke
+the agency of the latter to explain the mystery of death. They say the
+first death occurred when the evil spirit lightning became angry with
+man and hurled a dangerous bolt to earth.
+
+The first suggestion of real history is found in the traditions that
+tell of Malays from the south who came and settled on these islands. It
+is said a race of small black people were already here--the
+Negritos--who resembled the African negroes, and who retired into the
+hills before the invaders.
+
+Next we hear of a Mohammedan priest who came to the southern
+Philippines and gave the people his religion. His followers have to this
+day been called Moros.
+
+It was more than two centuries before Captain Cook visited Hawaii, that
+white men discovered the Philippines. Magellan, the famous Portuguese
+navigator, while sailing in the service of Spain, landed on Mindanao and
+Cebu, and took possession of the group in the name of the Spanish king.
+Before starting from Seville on this voyage around the world, Magellan
+had already spent seven years in India and sailed as far as Sumatra, so
+he already knew this part of the world. This time he was in search of
+the Spice Islands and of a passage from the Atlantic to the Pacific
+Ocean. He had touched first at Teneriffe and then crossed the Atlantic
+to Brazil, making his way along the coast of South America. There were
+many hardships and difficulties to contend with, and mutiny in the fleet
+resulted in several deaths. But, as we all know, he persevered, and on
+the 15th of October, 1520, discovered the straits which were named after
+him.
+
+The Ladrones were reached after fourteen tedious weeks, and on St.
+Lazarus' day, in 1521, the Philippines were sighted and named by him for
+the saint. In the early times they were sometimes referred to by the
+Spaniards as the Eastern, and later as the Western, Islands. They were
+finally named the Philippines by Ruy Lopez de Villalobos, after his
+king, Philip the Second.
+
+Magellan was quite unlike Captain Cook, whose visit to Hawaii has been
+mentioned. He was a nobleman and full of the religious enthusiasm that
+fired the Spaniards of his day. He was accompanied by several friars,
+who at once began missionary work among the natives, and only a week
+after his arrival the Cebuan chief and his warriors were baptized into
+the Christian faith. Unfortunately, Magellan took sides with the Cebuans
+in their warfare against a neighbouring tribe, and in the battle he was
+killed. After his death, the same chieftain turned on Magellan's
+followers, but some escaped to their ships. Out of two hundred and fifty
+men who had set sail three years before, only eighteen, after suffering
+incredible hardships on the long journey by way of India and the Cape of
+Good Hope, returned safely to Spain.
+
+The next explorer who touched at the Islands was the Englishman, Sir
+Francis Drake, of Spanish Armada fame, who sailed in 1570 on a voyage
+round the world. We also hear of another Briton, William Dampier, a
+noted free-booter, who, in 1685, tried to cross the Isthmus of Panama
+with Captain Sharp. Three times he sailed round the world, and touched
+at the northern as well as the southern Philippine Islands.
+
+Magellan, Drake and Dampier gave the western world much knowledge of the
+Far East, but did not remain long enough in the Islands to have any
+great or lasting influence over the natives. The work of civilizing them
+was left to Legaspi and the Spanish friars, who were the first real
+settlers.
+
+In 1565, the Philippines were occupied by an expedition under Miguel
+Lopez de Legaspi, _alcalde_ of the City of Mexico, who was charged to
+open a new route to Java and the Southern Islands. On his return voyage
+he was to examine the ports of the Philippines, and, if expedient, to
+found a colony there. In any case he was to establish trade with the
+Islands. The viceroy of Mexico charged him that the friars with the
+expedition were to be treated with the utmost consideration, "since you
+are aware that the chief thing sought after by His Majesty is the
+increase of our holy Catholic faith and the salvation of the souls of
+those infidels."
+
+Cebu was occupied, and Manila was taken and made the seat of
+government. The occupation of the Islands was not exactly by force of
+arms, for there was no fighting, although they found the islands well
+populated and the people more or less armed. The natives seemed to
+recognize and submit to a better government and religion than they had
+ever known. The reports of the Spaniards of the time speak of the
+success of small expeditions of perhaps a hundred men, who took over
+whole provinces. These soldiers were accompanied by Spanish priests, who
+settled among the people, preaching Christianity in the native tongues.
+The friars persuaded them to give up their continual feuds and submit to
+the central authority which the friars represented.
+
+Legaspi brought with him from Mexico four hundred Spanish soldiers.
+Later eight hundred more arrived, and civilian Spaniards, both married
+and single, sailed to the Islands as settlers. In 1591, according to the
+records of Spanish grants, there were 667,612 natives under Spanish
+rule, and twenty-seven officials to enforce the laws and preserve order.
+It was reported that in a majority of the grants there was peace,
+justice and religious instruction. There were Augustinian, Dominican and
+Franciscan friars as well as secular clergy. These men were not only
+priests but also fighters and organizers, and did fine work for many
+years, until long-continued possession of power gradually made the
+orders corrupt and grasping.
+
+Upon their first arrival, the Spaniards found the people established in
+small villages, or _barangays_, where the chief lived surrounded by his
+slaves and followers. It was considered wise to continue this system,
+ruling the villages through the local chieftain, whom the Spaniards
+called _cabeza de barangay_. Churches were erected, convent houses were
+built about them, and the natives were urged to gather near by. It was
+ordered that "elementary schools should be established, in which the
+Indians will be taught not only Christian doctrine and reading and
+writing but also arts and trades, so that they may become not only good
+Christians but also useful citizens."
+
+So at the end of the sixteenth century the Philippines were at peace.
+The natives were allowed to move from one town to another, but they were
+required to obtain permission, in order to prevent them from wandering
+about without religious instruction. The tendency of the Malays is to
+separate into small groups, and they have never been dwellers in large
+towns. The Spanish priests, therefore, found a constant effort
+necessary to keep them concentrated about the churches "under the
+bells."
+
+[Illustration: "UNDER THE BELLS."]
+
+The fervour of religious reform which started in Germany was followed by
+an equal fervour within the Roman Catholic Church. The period of Julius
+II and Leo X was over; the Council of Trent had met. Ignatius Loyola had
+seen his visions and sent forth his company, and Spain was full of
+priests eager to serve God with the same stern energy which the previous
+generation had shown in the search for lands and gold and fabulous gems.
+No duty was so grave as that of conformity to the Church, no stigma so
+galling as that of heretic. To convert the heathen was an obligation
+binding upon all men. All Spanish colonies were missions; the
+Philippines were always rather a mission than a colony.
+
+Until the revolt of 1896, Spain never found it necessary to hold the
+Islands by armed force; her dominion there was based rather on her
+conquest of the minds and souls of men. There had been a few uprisings,
+however, and early in the eighteenth century a Spanish governor and his
+son were murdered by a mob. But notwithstanding occasional difficulties,
+in the main there was peace until the civil service of the Philippines
+was assimilated with that of Spain. Then officials became dependent upon
+their supporters at home, and were changed with every change of the
+ministry. Some Spaniard writing at the time said that with the opening
+of the Suez Canal Spanish office holders descended on the Islands like
+locusts.
+
+At the end of the nineteenth century, the Spanish army had grown to
+17,859 of all ranks, only 3,005 of whom were Spaniards, and there was a
+constabulary of over 3,000 officers and men, who were almost entirely
+natives. The rule of Spain was secured by a native army. There could
+have been no widespread discontent, or that army would not have remained
+true to its allegiance, especially as its recruits were obtained by
+conscription.
+
+The chronicles remind us, however, that the Spaniards did not have
+things all their own way. In the early days, they were at first friendly
+with the Chinese, and Mexico carried on a flourishing trade with China
+by way of Manila until the pirate Li Ma Hong raided the Islands. The
+Spaniards were on good terms with the Japanese until the latter
+massacred the Jesuit friars in Japan. When the Shogun Iyeyasu expelled
+the priests he sent away even those who were caring for the lepers, and
+as a final insult, he sent to Manila three junks loaded with lepers,
+with a letter to the governor general of the Philippines, in which he
+said that, as the Spanish friars were so anxious to provide for the poor
+and needy, he sent him a cargo of men who were in truth sore afflicted.
+Only the ardent appeals of the friars saved these unfortunates and their
+contaminated vessels from being sunk in Manila Bay. Finally the governor
+yielded, and these poor creatures were landed and housed in the leper
+hospital of San Lazaro, which was then established for their reception
+and which remains to-day.
+
+The Spanish governors were also hampered by the lack of effective
+support from the older colony of Mexico, which was so much nearer than
+the home land that they naturally turned to it for aid. One of them
+wrote pathetically to the King of Spain:
+
+"And for the future ... will your Majesty ordain that Mexico shall
+furnish what pertains to its part. For, if I ask for troops, they send
+me twenty men, who die before they arrive here, and none are born here.
+And if I ask for ammunition, they laugh at me and censure me, and say
+that I ask impossible things. They retain there the freight money and
+the duties; and if they should send to this state what is yours, your
+Majesty would have to spend but little from your royal patrimony."
+
+The Portuguese were a source of anxiety to the colonists until Portugal
+fell into the hands of Spain. The Dutch, too, who were growing powerful
+in the Far East, even took Formosa, which brought them altogether too
+near, but they were driven out of that island by the great Chinese
+pirate Koxinga.[13]
+
+From the time of Legaspi to the end of Spanish rule there were
+occasional attacks upon the Chinese residing in the archipelago, who
+were never allowed to live in the Islands without exciting protest and
+dislike, based partly upon religious, partly upon commercial grounds.
+During the last one hundred years of Spanish supremacy, the greatest
+danger to their power was the presence of the Chinese. Efforts to
+exclude them were never effective or long enduring, and yet it was felt
+that the men who came as labourers and traders were the advance guard of
+an innumerable host. In business the Malay has never been the equal of
+the shrewd Chinaman, and although the latter might be converted and take
+a Spanish name, yet it was always gravely suspected that a search would
+find joss sticks smoldering in front of the tutelary deity of commerce
+hidden behind the image of the Virgin in his chapel.
+
+So the Chinaman, like the Jew in medieval Europe, carried on his trade
+in constant danger of robbery and murder. This antipathy did not,
+however, extend to Filipina women, many of whom married the foreigners.
+Among the leaders in the Filipino insurrection against the United
+States, Aguinaldo, two of his cabinet, nine of his generals, and many of
+his more important financial agents were of Chinese descent.
+
+In 1762 the English swooped down upon Manila, but they held the capital
+only two years, for, by the Treaty of Paris, the lands they had taken
+were returned to Spain. It is said the English conquest, brief as it
+was, brought good results to the Islands.
+
+Before going on to the struggle against the friars, I wish to quote
+from my father's letters describing his experiences in the Philippines
+twenty years before American occupation.
+
+
+                                          "At Sea, December 2, 1878.
+
+"Yesterday I left Manila, where I have been since the 6th of last
+month.... Our first days there were spent in firing salutes and
+exchanging visits, and going through all the forms which are customary
+when a government vessel comes into a foreign port. Admiral Patterson
+sent me here to settle a stabbing affray on board the American barque
+_Masonic_, and that took up my attention at first. In the evenings I
+went to the opera, and visited the sights of the city. On account of
+earthquakes, all the buildings are but one story high. The customs,
+fashions, etc., are Spanish. Every one was polite and I found it very
+pleasant; but, as you might expect, after a little while I grew
+restless. I heard that there was some beautiful scenery in the interior,
+and I resolved to go on an investigating trip and see it. Our
+vice-consul, Mr. Yongs, and another gentleman went with me.
+
+"From Manila we went in a boat up a short river, which had its rise in a
+large lake, about twenty-five miles long, that we crossed in a steamer.
+I think I never saw such quantities of two things as were on that
+lake--namely, ducks and mosquitoes.
+
+"From the lake we continued our journey in two-horse vehicles, like the
+_volantes_ of Havana, and in these we went from village to village, on
+our way to the mountains. We were very well treated. The Spanish
+authorities at Manila provided us with whatever we required. The
+villages were clusters of thatched huts around a church, and the
+religion seemed to be a curious mixture of Roman Catholic Christianity
+and pagan superstition, as I concluded from the style of the pictures
+with which the churches were adorned. These were chiefly representations
+of hell and its torments. Devils, with the traditional tails and horns,
+and armed with pitchforks, were turning over sinners in lakes of burning
+brimstone....
+
+"We found the natives very musical; they sang and played on a variety of
+instruments, and they were rather handsome. The women had, without
+exception, the longest and most luxuriant hair I ever saw in all my
+travels. You know it is a rare thing among us for a woman to have hair
+that sweeps the ground, but here the exception is the other way; nearly
+every woman I saw had hair between five and six feet in length.
+
+"I was told that back among the mountains there existed tribes whom the
+Spaniards have never been able to conquer, and no one dares to venture
+among them, not even the priests. Our road was constantly ascending, and
+as we advanced toward the interior the scenery became beautiful. Peaks
+of mountains rose all about us; plains and valleys stretched out,
+covered with tropical vegetation; picturesque villages, clustering
+around their churches, were visible here and there; and in the distance
+were glimpses of the sea, sparkling and bright in the sun.
+
+"I was told of a wonderful ravine among the mountains that was worth
+seeing and I decided to visit it, especially as it was a favourable
+time; the river, by which it had to be approached, was then high, and
+its fifteen cascades, which usually had to be climbed past, dragging the
+canoe, were reduced to four. I took three natives with me, and we
+ascended successfully. I have called it a ravine, but a gorge would be a
+better term, for it is worn directly through the mountain by a large
+river, and the rock rises up on each side, as sheer and straight as if
+cut by machinery.
+
+"After I had ascended a certain distance, I stopped for a time to
+examine all the wild magnificence about me. The rocky wall on each side
+was so high that when I looked up I could see the stars shining in that
+bright noonday, as if it were night. Huge birds came flapping up the
+gorge far above my head; and yet they were far below the top of the
+mountain of rock. I do not know how many feet it rose, but I never saw
+any precipice where the impression of height was so effectually
+given--it seemed immense.
+
+"Beneath us was the deep, broad stream, looking very dark in the
+twilight that such a shadow made, and I could not help feeling
+awestruck. But the opening of the gorge framed as smiling and cheerful a
+landscape as could possibly be devised, to contrast with the inner
+gloom. It was a wide, varied and splendid view of the country beyond,
+sloping to the distant sea, and all of it as aglow with light and colour
+as sea and land could be, beneath a tropic sun.
+
+"Descending the river on our way out, I had a characteristic adventure,
+which will make me satisfied for a time. We had passed two of the rapids
+in safety, but as we approached the third, the canoe struck on a rock or
+something in the current, bow on, and swinging round, half filled with
+water. The natives in the end of the canoe nearest the rock sprang out
+and clung to the vines which hung over its sides, but the other man and
+I went over the fall in the half-swamped canoe, and were wholly at the
+mercy of the stream, with an unusually good prospect of getting a good
+deal more of it.
+
+"The fall once passed through, the current drove us toward the shore, if
+that is what you would call a precipice of rock, running straight down
+far below the surface of the water. I succeeded in grasping the vines
+and pulling the canoe after me by my feet. The water was quite close by
+the rock, and the other two men, crawling down to us, hung on with me,
+and bailed out the boat till it was safely afloat, and then we went down
+the rest of the way without accident."
+
+
+Before the middle of the last century, life in the Philippines must have
+been, for Spaniards and natives alike, one long period of siesta. The
+sound of the wars and the passing of governments and kings in Europe
+must have seemed to these loiterers in a summer garden like the drone of
+distant bees. After that period conditions changed rapidly. In 1852, the
+Jesuits returned to the Philippines; in 1868, the reactionary Queen
+Isabella II fled from Spain, because of the rise of republicanism; in
+1869, the Suez Canal was opened. All these events had their influence,
+but the return of the Jesuits was of dominating importance.
+
+Throughout the nineteenth century the sole idea of the Tagals was to get
+rid of the friars, and for several reasons, which I will explain as
+briefly as possible. The Roman Catholic clergy are divided into regular
+and secular. Members of the secular clergy are subordinate to the
+bishops and archbishops, through whom the decrees of the Holy See are
+promulgated. The regular clergy, monks and friars, are subordinate to
+provincials elected for comparatively short terms of office by members
+of their own order. The Jesuits form a group by themselves but belong
+rather to the regular than the secular.
+
+Over three hundred years after the conversion of the Filipinos, the
+Spanish monks and friars considered it still unsafe to admit natives
+into the hierarchy of the Catholic Church. _The secular clergy were
+mostly natives, the regular clergy were Spaniards._ Naturally this
+condition of affairs in time produced friction.
+
+To understand the case in regard to the Jesuits, it is necessary to go
+back nearly a century. In 1767, the King of Spain issued a decree
+expelling the Jesuits from his possessions. Their property was
+confiscated, their schools were closed, and they were treated as enemies
+of the state. They had been among the earliest missionaries in the
+Philippines, and were probably the wealthiest and most influential of
+all the clergy there. Their departure left no priests for the richest
+parishes in the provinces of Cavite and Manila, which had been their
+sphere of influence. The question at once arose as to who would succeed
+them, and as it happened, the Archbishop of Manila who had to answer it
+was a member of the secular clergy, a Spanish priest to be sure, but of
+liberal tendencies. Consequently, he filled the parishes with native
+priests, who continued to occupy them until the return of the Jesuits.
+
+Now the parish priest was the most influential man in the community. As
+native priests used this influence to build up the prestige of the
+seculars, the ecclesiastical feuds which arose became embittered by
+racial antagonism.
+
+When a royal order was received permitting the return of the Jesuits it
+became at once necessary to find places for them in the ecclesiastical
+government. Spain decided that the parishes of Cavite and Manila should
+be henceforth filled by members of the order of Recollets, who were to
+transfer their missions in Mindanao to the Jesuits. The Archbishop
+protested against this increase in the power of the regular clergy, and
+the Governor General assembled his council to act upon the protest. All
+the members of the council who were born in Spain voted against the
+Archbishop. All those born in the Philippines voted for him. The
+regulars gained another victory over the seculars; the native was
+publicly informed that he was not fit to administer the parishes of his
+own people, and he saw himself definitely assigned to the position of
+lay brother or of curate. Whatever threads of attachment there had been
+between the opposing factions broke on the day of that decision, and
+every native priest from that moment became a center of disaffection and
+of the propaganda of hatred of the friars. This was perhaps the real
+beginning of the movement which continued, now secretly, now openly,
+until it broke out in actual revolt in 1872. The Spaniards put down this
+uprising of the Tagalogs with such cruelty that they feared a later
+retaliation, and sought help from the friars. This the friars gave them,
+in return for added wealth and power, which was granted, of course, at
+the expense of the vanquished natives.
+
+Worcester writes in one of his earlier books, "During the years 1890-93,
+while traveling in the archipelago, I everywhere heard the mutterings
+that go before a storm. It was the old story: compulsory military
+service; taxes too heavy to be borne, and imprisonment or deportation
+with confiscation of property for those who could not pay them; no
+justice except for those who could afford to buy it; cruel extortion by
+the friars in the more secluded districts; wives and daughters ruined;
+the marriage ceremony too costly a luxury for the poor; the dead refused
+burial without payment of a substantial sum in advance; no opportunity
+for education; little encouragement for industry and economy, since to
+acquire wealth meant to become a target for officials and friars alike;
+these and a hundred other wrongs had goaded the natives and half-castes
+until they were stung to desperation."
+
+The dissensions in the Philippines which ended in the rebellion of
+1896-7 began with disagreements among the Spaniards themselves. A
+progressive party arose before which the clerical or conservative party
+slowly but steadily lost ground, and the legislation of modern Spain was
+by degrees introduced into the Islands. The country was not able to
+endure the taxation which would have been necessary to raise the
+revenues to carry out this legislation. Hence laws which were passed
+against the advice of the Spanish clergy in the Philippines were left
+largely in their hands for execution, not because they were loved or
+trusted, but because they were the only Spanish functionaries who knew
+the language and the people and whose residence in the Islands was a
+permanent one. If the friars had used their power wisely and
+unselfishly, there would have been no trouble, but they used it too
+often simply to keep the people down and extort money, for which they
+gave little return.
+
+By degrees the mestizos took sides. The Chinese mestizos soon grew
+restive under this priestly government, and aided the progressive
+Spanish party in Manila. As time passed they had it borne in upon them
+that revolution might pay.
+
+The insurrection of 1896-7 was planned and carried out under the
+auspices of a society local to the Philippines, called the "Katipunan,"
+the full title of which may be translated as "Supreme Select Association
+of the Sons of the People." According to Spanish writers on the subject,
+it was the outgrowth of a series of associations of Freemasons formed
+with the expressed purpose of securing reforms in the government of the
+Philippines, but whose unexpressed and ultimate object was to obtain
+the independence of the archipelago. As if to accomplish this purpose,
+a systematic attack was made on the monastic orders in the Philippines,
+to undermine their prestige and to destroy their influence upon the
+great mass of the population. The honorary president of the Katipunan
+was José Rizal, whose name was used, without his permission, to attract
+the masses to the movement.
+
+Rizal was born in 1861 not far from Manila. He came of intelligent
+stock. After his early training at the Jesuit school in Manila and the
+Dominican university, Rizal went to Spain, where he took high honors at
+the University of Madrid in medicine and philosophy. Post-graduate work
+in France and Germany followed.
+
+He was an ardent patriot, and in order to awaken his countrymen to the
+need of reform, although he was a Roman Catholic, he published while in
+Germany his book called "Noli Me Tangere,"--Touch Me Not--which dealt
+with the immoral life of the friars. An English translation has been
+issued with the title, "The Social Cancer." The circulation of the book
+in the Islands was forbidden, but it was read by most of the educated
+Filipinos. In reading it, one is again and again struck by the author's
+clear comprehension of the needs and the difficulties of the Filipinos,
+and the calm, unprejudiced way in which their problems are discussed.
+
+[Illustration: JOSE RIZAL.]
+
+In 1891, Rizal began the practice of medicine in Hongkong. Meanwhile,
+the Spanish authorities, in their desire to get him into their power,
+worked upon his feelings by persecuting his mother. The trick was
+successful, and he returned to Manila, where he was soon arrested, and
+banished to the island of Mindanao.
+
+The most powerful leader of the insurrection was Andres Bonifacio, a
+passionate and courageous man of little education. He sent an agent to
+Dr. Rizal to aid him in escaping from his place of exile and to request
+him to lead the Katipunan in open revolt. Rizal refused, believing that
+the Filipinos were not yet ready for independence. Bonifacio resolved to
+proceed without him.
+
+Bonifacio assured his audience that when he gave the signal the native
+troops would join them. It was of great importance to the success of his
+plan that the army, as in 1872, was engaged in operations against the
+Moros. There were available in Manila only some three hundred Spanish
+artillery, detachments amounting to four hundred men, including seamen,
+and two thousand native soldiers. The plot was discovered, but Bonifacio
+escaped from Manila, and sent out orders for an uprising in that part
+of Luzon which had been organized by the Katipunan. Manila was attacked,
+but the rebels were repulsed. Martial law was proclaimed in eight
+provinces of Luzon, followed by wholesale executions. Many of those
+arrested on suspicion "were confined in Fort Santiago, one batch being
+crowded into a dungeon for which the only ventilation was a grated
+opening at the top, and one night the sergeant of the guard carelessly
+spread his sleeping-mat over this, so the next morning some fifty-five
+asphyxiated corpses were hauled away."
+
+Just before the outbreak, Rizal received permission to join the army in
+Cuba as surgeon, but on the way there was arrested and brought back to
+Manila. His fate was now sealed. The trial by court-martial was a farce.
+On a December day in 1896 he was led to execution.
+
+Rizal was undoubtedly the noblest and most unselfish of the Filipino
+leaders, and his execution was not only a crime but a blunder on the
+part of the Spanish authorities. From his prison he issued an address to
+the Filipinos remarkable for its moderation and its condemnation of the
+"savage rebellion," stating that the education of the people must
+precede any truly beneficial reforms, and urging them to go back to
+their homes. The Spanish officials deemed this not sufficiently
+"patriotic" to be published, and sentenced its author to the death of a
+traitor by shooting in the back. To-day he is the national hero of the
+Filipinos.
+
+[Illustration: FORT SANTIAGO.]
+
+The seacoast towns were under the leadership of Emilio Aguinaldo, a
+young radical, who was already a recognized leader among the local
+disaffected. The Spaniards had not expected this outbreak in Cavite.
+Aguinaldo had personally assured the governor of the province of his
+devotion to Spain, but when fighting began isolated Spanish officers
+were killed and their families carried into captivity. The difficulties,
+of the Spaniards were increased by the fact that the defense of Manila
+and Cavite until reinforcements arrived, would be largely in the hands
+of native troops, among whom the Katipunan was known to have been at
+work. But the troops of the old native regiments--the men who for years
+had followed Spanish officers--were on the whole faithful, and it was
+largely due to them that Manila and Cavite were held.
+
+The leaders in the insurrection were of that class who called themselves
+_ilustrados_, enlightened, a class whose blood is, in almost every case,
+partly Spanish or partly Chinese. The supremacy of the friars was
+passing, and men of this class intended to be the heirs to their
+domain. The idea of forming a republic and even of adopting the titles
+appropriate to a republic to designate the functionaries of a Malay
+despotism was an afterthought.
+
+Reinforcements arrived from Spain, and by June 10, 1897, the
+insurrection was broken, and Aguinaldo with his remaining adherents had
+taken refuge at Biacnabato, some sixty miles from Manila. He was now
+without a rival, for Bonifacio had dared to attempt his life, had been
+brought before a court-martial, had been condemned to death and had
+disappeared.
+
+Aguinaldo, who now called himself not only Generalissimo of the Army of
+Liberation but President of the Revolutionary Government, had adopted
+guerilla warfare, and the Spanish commands were forced to follow an
+enemy who was never dangerous to large bodies, but who always was to
+small ones--an enemy who, wearing no uniform, upon the approach of a
+large body became peaceful labourers in the fields along the road, but
+were ready to pick up their rifles or bolos and use them against a small
+party or a straggler. Still, whatever they had fought for at first, the
+insurgent leaders were now fighting for their own safety.
+
+The governor general sought in various ways to gain the support of the
+country. He called for Filipino volunteers, and, curiously enough, they
+responded with enthusiasm. The rapidity with which they were recruited
+was probably largely due to the activity of the friars. This added to
+the hatred of them felt by the class of natives represented by
+Aguinaldo.
+
+Between June and December, 1897, the time was spent in an obscure
+bargaining, the outcome of which was the so-called Treaty of Biacnabato,
+which Primo de Rivera--the governor general--has stated was merely a
+promise to pay a money bribe to the insurgents if they would cease a
+combat in which they had lost hope of success but which they could still
+prolong to the detriment of the resources and the prestige of Spain.
+
+The result of the bargainings was that Spain agreed to pay eight hundred
+thousand Mexican dollars for the surrender of Aguinaldo and his
+principal leaders and the arms and ammunition in their possession. An
+amnesty was proclaimed. Aguinaldo and his leaders were sent to Hongkong
+under escort, where they declared themselves loyal Spanish subjects.
+Primo de Rivera returned to Spain. As he received in return for the
+money only about two hundred rifles and a little ammunition, it is not
+probable that he made any of the promises of changes in the government
+of the archipelago which the Filipinos have insistently stated since
+then were the real objects of the agreement.
+
+Whatever may have been the true motives which actuated the Spanish
+governor general in adopting this method of terminating a successful
+campaign, he succeeded in purchasing only an armistice and not a peace.
+On January 23, 1898, a Te Deum was sung in the cathedral of Manila to
+mark the reëstablishment of peace in the archipelago.
+
+The insurgent leaders had been bought off and their followers had
+surrendered their arms.
+
+As Spanish dominion in the Philippines was now about to close, let us
+stop a moment to inquire what it had brought to the Islands. It may have
+been hard and utterly unprogressive, but it turned the tribes of Luzon
+and the Visayas from tribal feuds and slave-raiding expeditions to
+agriculture.
+
+To accomplish these results required untiring energy and a high
+enthusiasm among the missionaries. They had lived among savages,
+speaking their tongue, until they had almost forgotten their own. Spain
+had ceased to be everything to them; their order was their country.
+Spanish officials came and went, but the ministers of the Church
+remained, and as they grew to be the interpreters of the wants of the
+people, in many cases their protectors against spoliation, power fell
+into their hands. It is rather interesting to learn that in 1619, in the
+reign of Philip III, it was proposed to abandon the Philippines on
+account of their useless expense to Spain, but a delegation of friars
+from the Islands implored him not to abandon the twenty thousand
+Christians they had converted, and the order was countermanded.
+
+Spanish dominion left the people Christians, whereas, if the Islands had
+not been occupied by Spain, their people would in all probability to-day
+be Mohammedan. The point of view of the Spanish friars may not be ours,
+but when their efforts are judged by the good rather than the evil
+results, it can still be said that Spain gave Christianity and a long
+term of peace to the Philippine archipelago. The Filipinos are the only
+Christian Asiatics.
+
+But Philippine history was to take an unexpected turn. The
+Spanish-American war broke out, and a new factor appeared upon the scene
+in the shape of Commodore Dewey and his fleet. We all know the story of
+the battle of Manila Bay, but we may just recall it briefly.
+
+It was the night of April 30, 1898, that the American Asiatic squadron,
+which had received its orders at Hongkong, arrived off the Philippines.
+They took a look first into Subig Bay, but seeing no enemy, they made
+their way into Manila Bay by the Boca Grande entrance. There were
+rumours of mines in the channel and big guns in the forts, but Dewey
+took the chance, and the fleet steamed in at night. The ships formed two
+columns, the fighting ships all in one line, and the auxiliary vessels
+about twelve hundred yards behind. They moved at the rate of their
+slowest vessel.
+
+Black thunder clouds at times obscured even the crescent moon that
+partially lighted their course, but occasional lightning flashes gave
+the bold Americans a glimpse of frowning Corregidor and the sentinel
+rock of El Fraile. The ships were dark except for one white light at the
+stern of each as a guide to the vessel next in line. As the _Olympia_
+turned toward El Fraile her light was seen by a Spanish sentry. A sheet
+of flame from the smokestack of the _McCulloch_, a revenue cutter
+attached to the fleet, also betrayed its presence to the enemy at the
+same moment. El Fraile and a battery on the south shore of the bay at
+once opened fire, which was returned by the ships to such good purpose
+that the battery was silenced in three minutes. Slowly, steadily,
+Dewey's ships steamed on, and at dawn discovered the gray Spanish
+vessels lying in front of the naval arsenal at Cavite, over on the
+distant shore to the right. Admiral Montojo's flagship, the _Reina
+Cristina_, and the _Castilla_, and a number of smaller vessels, formed a
+curved line of battle, which was protected in a measure by the shore
+batteries. The Spaniards had one more ship than the Americans, but the
+latter had bigger guns.
+
+Silently the American squadron advanced across the bay, with the Stars
+and Stripes flying from every ship. At quarter past five on the morning
+of May 1st, the Spanish ships fired their first shots. When less than
+six thousand yards from their line, Dewey gave the famous order to
+Captain Gridley, in command of the _Olympia_: "You may fire when you're
+ready, Gridley."
+
+Two hours later, the _Reina Cristina_ had been burned, the _Castilla_
+was on fire, and all but one of the other Spanish vessels were abandoned
+and sunk. Dewey gave his men time for breakfast and a little rest, then
+shelled and silenced the batteries at Cavite. Soon after noon the
+Spaniards surrendered, having lost 381 men and ten war vessels. Seven
+Americans were slightly wounded, but none were killed. So ended this
+famous battle.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER III
+
+INSURRECTION
+
+
+Admiral Dewey took a great liking to General Anderson, "Fighting Tom"
+(L.'s cousin), the first military officer to command the American forces
+in the Philippines. On one occasion the Admiral fired a salute well
+after sundown (contrary to naval regulations) to compliment him on his
+promotion to the rank of major general, and scared the wits out of some
+of the good people ashore. General Anderson has given me a few notes
+about his experiences at that time, which are of special interest.
+
+"When in the latter part of April, 1898, I received an order relieving
+me from duty in Alaska and ordering me to the Philippines, I was engaged
+in rescuing a lot of people who had been buried by an avalanche in the
+Chilcoot Pass. I took my regiment at once to San Francisco, and there
+received an order placing me in command of the first military expedition
+to the Philippines. This was the first American army that ever crossed
+an ocean. We were given only two days for preparation. We were not given
+a wagon, cart, ambulance, or a single army mule, nor boats with which to
+land our men. I received fifty thousand dollars in silver and was
+ordered to render what assistance I could. I had never heard of
+Aguinaldo at that time, and all I knew of the Philippines was that they
+were famous for hemp, earthquakes, tropical diseases and rebellion.
+
+"We stopped at Honolulu on the way over, although the Hawaiian Islands
+had not been annexed. The Kanakas received us with enthusiasm and
+assured us that the place was a paradise before the coming of the
+missionaries and mosquitoes. From there we went to Guam, where we found
+nude natives singing 'Lucy Long' and 'Old Dan Tucker,' songs they had
+learned from American sailors.
+
+"When we reached Cavite the last day of June, Admiral Dewey asked me to
+go ashore and call on Aguinaldo, who, he assured me, was a native chief
+of great influence. Our call was to have been entirely informal, but
+when we approached the house of the Dictator we found a barefooted band
+in full blare, the bass-drummer after the rule of the country being the
+leader. The stairway leading to Aguinaldo's apartment was lined on
+either side by a strange assortment of Filipino warriors. The Chief
+himself was a small man in a very long-tailed frock coat, and in his
+hand he held a collapsible opera hat. I saw him many times afterward and
+always thus provided. He asked me at once if I could recognize his
+assumption. This I could not do, so when a few days later I invited him
+to attend our first Fourth of July he declined. He further showed his
+displeasure by failing to be present at the first dinner to which we
+American officers were invited. There for the first time we met Filipina
+ladies. They were bare as to their shoulders, yet in some mysterious way
+their dresses remained well in place. In dancing there was a continuous
+shuffling on the floor because their slippers only half covered their
+light fantastics, rendering them more agile than graceful.
+
+"In returning from visiting the Tagalog Chief we saw a headless statue
+of Columbus. I asked a native to explain how Christopher had lost his
+head. The reply was that they beheaded him because they did not wish to
+be discovered.
+
+"Soon after I got to Cavite, I was invited with the officers of my staff
+to attend a dinner given in my honour. At the symposium I was asked
+to state the principles upon which the American government was founded.
+I answered, 'The consent of the governed, and majority rule.'
+Buencamino, the toastmaster, replied, 'We will baptize ourselves to that
+sentiment,' upon which he emptied his champagne glass on his head. The
+others likewise wasted their good wine.
+
+[Illustration: A GROUP OF FILIPINA LADIES.]
+
+"When General Merritt arrived he first came ashore at a village behind
+the line we had established where Aguinaldo was making his headquarters.
+Rain was falling in torrents at the time, but Aguinaldo, who must have
+known of the presence of the new Governor General, failed to ask him to
+take shelter in his headquarters. Naturally General Merritt was
+indignant and directed that thereafter any necessary business should be
+conducted through me. This placed me in a very disagreeable position. At
+first I thought I could conciliate and use the Filipinos against the
+Spaniards, but General Merritt brought an order from President McKinley
+directing that we should only recognize the Filipinos as rebellious
+subjects of Spain. Aguinaldo reproached me bitterly for my change of
+conduct toward him, but because of my orders I could not do otherwise,
+nor could I explain the cause.
+
+"We soon drifted into open hostility. I found but one man who appeared
+to understand the situation, and he was the much hated Archbishop
+Nozaleda. After we took Manila he invited me to come to see him. He
+remarked in the course of our conversation that when we took the city by
+storm he expected to see our soldiers kill the men and children and
+violate the women. But instead he praised us for having maintained
+perfect order. For reply I quoted the Latin, '_Parcere subjectis, et
+debellare superbos._' Which prompted him to say in Spanish to a Jesuit
+priest, 'Why, these people seem to be civilized.' To which the Jesuit
+replied, 'Yes, we have some colleges in their country.'
+
+"The statement that we seemed to be civilized calls for an explanation.
+I found many Filipinos feared American rule might prove more severe on
+them than the Spanish control. In a school book that I glanced at in a
+Spanish school was the enlightening statement that the Americans were a
+cruel people who had exterminated the entire Indian population of North
+America."
+
+The battle of Manila Bay was fought and won, as we well remember, on May
+Day. Through the kind offices of the British consul the Spanish admiral
+came to an understanding with Dewey. Surgeons were sent ashore to
+assist in the care of the wounded Spaniards, and sailors to act as
+police. The cable was cut, and the blockade was carried into effect at
+once. The foreign population was allowed to leave for China. German
+men-of-war kept arriving in the harbour, until there were five in all.
+It was known that Germany sympathized with Spain, and only the timely
+arrival of some friendly English ships, and the trenchant diplomacy of
+our admiral, prevented trouble.
+
+All the rest of that month, and the next, and still the next, the fleet
+lay at anchor, threatening the city with its guns, but making no effort
+to take it. The people lived in constant fear of bombardment from the
+ships which they could so plainly see from the Luneta on their evening
+promenades. But they could not escape, for Aguinaldo's forces lay
+encamped behind them in the suburbs. In fact, the refugees were seeking
+safety within the walls of the city, instead of fleeing from it, for
+while they had no love for the Spaniards, and were fellow countrymen of
+the rebel chieftain, they preferred to take their chances of bombardment
+rather than risk his method of "peaceful occupation."
+
+Of course there was no coöperation between the Americans and the
+Filipinos, although both wanted the same thing and each played somewhat
+into the other's hand. Admiral Dewey refused to give Aguinaldo any naval
+aid, and the _insurrectos_ on at least two occasions found it profitable
+to betray our plans to the common enemy.
+
+The delay in taking the city was caused by Dewey's shortage of troops.
+He could have taken it at any time, but could not have occupied it. The
+Spanish commander made little attempt at defense. A formal attack on one
+of the forts satisfied the demands of honour. When the city surrendered,
+on August 13th, the Americans were in the difficult position of guarding
+thirteen thousand Spanish soldiers, of keeping at bay some fourteen
+thousand plunder-mad Filipinos, and of policing a city of two hundred
+thousand people--all with some ten thousand men!
+
+The way in which it was accomplished is in effective contrast with
+European methods. When our troops broke the line of trenches encircling
+Manila they pressed quickly forward through the residence district to
+the old walled town, which housed the governmental departments of the
+city. Here they halted in long lines, resting calmly on their arms until
+the articles of capitulation were signed. It took but an hour or so to
+arrange for the disposition of our troops among the various barracks and
+for the removal of the disarmed Spanish garrison to the designated
+places of confinement. Then command was passed along by mounted officers
+for the several regiments to proceed to their quarters for the night. In
+columns of four they marched off with the easy swing and unconcern of
+troops on practice march. A thin cordon of sentinels appeared at easy
+hailing distance along the principal streets, and the task was
+accomplished.
+
+By noon next day they had a stability as great as though they had been
+there for years. Not a woman was molested, not a man insulted, and the
+children on the street were romping with added zest to show off before
+their new-found friends. The banks felt safe to open their vaults, and
+the merchants found a healthily rising market. The ships blockaded and
+idling at anchor in the harbour discharged their cargoes, the customs
+duties being assessed according to the Spanish tariff by bright young
+volunteers, aided by interpreters. The streets were cleaned of their
+accumulated filth, and the courts of law were opened. All this was done
+under General Anderson's command, and it seems to me is much to his
+credit.
+
+A daughter of General Anderson's, who was there at the time with her
+father, writes: "Days of intense anxiety followed the opening of
+hostilities. The Filipinos were pushed back more and more, but we feared
+treachery within the city. We heard that they were going to poison our
+water supply, that they were going to rise and bolo us all, that every
+servant had his secret instructions. Also, that Manila was to be burned.
+There proved to be something in this, for twice fires were started and
+gained some headway, and we women were banished to the transports
+again."
+
+Aguinaldo had demanded at least joint occupation of the city, and his
+full share of the loot as a reward for services rendered. We can imagine
+his disgust at being told that Americans did not loot, and that they
+intended to hold the city themselves. If there had been no other reason
+for refusing him, the conduct of his troops in the suburbs would have
+furnished a sufficient one, for they were utterly beyond control,
+assaulting and plundering their own brother Filipinos and neutral
+foreigners, as well as Spaniards, and torturing their prisoners. But
+this refusal, justifiable as it certainly was, marked the real beginning
+of the insurrection against American rule, though there was no
+immediate outbreak.
+
+Aguinaldo was a mestizo school teacher when, in 1896, he became leader
+of the insurrection against Spain. The money with which Spain hoped to
+purchase peace was to be paid in three instalments, the principal
+condition being that the Filipino leaders should leave the Islands. This
+they did, going to Hongkong, where the first instalment was promptly
+deposited in a bank. The second instalment, to Aguinaldo's great
+disgust, was paid over to Filipinos left in the Islands, and the last
+one was not paid at all. This was just as well for him, because his
+fellow insurrectionists were already demanding of him an accounting for
+the funds in Hongkong, and had him summoned to court for the purpose.
+This proceeding he wisely avoided by leaving for Europe in disguise.
+
+He got only as far as Singapore, however, for there--in April of '98--he
+heard of the probability of American interference in the Islands and
+interviewed our consul. The go-between for this interview was an
+unscrupulous interpreter, whose intrigues were destined to have
+far-reaching effects for us. It has been charged that both our consul at
+Singapore and the one at Hongkong committed this nation to a policy
+favouring Philippine independence, but the whole question of American
+pledges finally resolves itself into a choice between the word of an
+American admiral and a Chinese mestizo.
+
+When Spain had failed to pay over to Aguinaldo the balance of the peace
+money, he had promptly gone to work to organize another revolution from
+the safe harbourage of Hongkong. His flight to Singapore had interrupted
+this, but now, with the Americans so conspicuously there to "help," it
+was a simple matter to put his plans in operation.
+
+A month after the battle of Manila Bay Aguinaldo proclaimed himself
+"president" (in reality military dictator) of the "Filipino Republic."
+But this republic existed only on paper. Dewey accurately states the
+condition of affairs when he says, "Our fleet had destroyed the only
+government there was, and there was no other government; there was a
+reign of terror throughout the Philippines, looting, robbing,
+murdering." A form of municipal election was held, but if a candidate
+not favoured by the insurgents was elected, he was at once deposed. One
+candidate won his election by threatening to kill any one who got the
+office in his place. Persons "contrary minded" were not allowed to
+vote. These happenings hardly suggest a republican form of government,
+but they are typical of conditions at that time.
+
+[Illustration: AGUINALDO'S PALACE AT MALOLOS.]
+
+Naturally the self-styled president was not recognized by the American
+officials, and they were justified, as is shown by the fact that before
+the year was up Aguinaldo himself had come to realize that he could not
+maintain order among his people, and tried to resign from his office.
+
+Meanwhile his lack of recognition by the Americans, and his exclusion
+from the spoils of war, so far as Manila was concerned, showed him that
+his only hope of achieving his ambitions lay in driving these
+interlopers from the Islands. But for the time being, while awaiting a
+propitious moment for attack, he occupied himself and his men by
+conquering the Spaniards in the outlying provinces. Since there was no
+coöperation among the Spanish forces, he was quite successful. Having
+proclaimed the republic with himself at the head, he felt justified in
+maintaining, with the aid of his booty, a truly regal state in his
+palace at Malolos, aping the forms and ceremonies of the Spanish
+governors in Manila.
+
+As fast as Church property, or property belonging to Spaniards, fell
+into his hands, it was confiscated and turned over to the State--if
+Aguinaldo can be considered the State. His houses and those of his
+generals were furnished from Spanish possessions, all title deeds were
+systematically destroyed or hidden, and administrators were appointed
+for the property.
+
+At the beginning of the new year (1899), he turned his attention to the
+Americans, and Manila. Because our forces seemed reluctant to fight, the
+Filipinos, like the Mexicans to-day, believed that they must be cowards
+and afraid to meet them. A Mexican paper has recently told its readers
+what a simple matter it would be, if war were declared, for their troops
+to cross the border and crush such slight opposition as may be offered
+to the capture of Washington. So it is no wonder that the Filipinos felt
+confident of success, especially after their victories over the
+Spaniards in the outlying regions.
+
+By January, Admiral Dewey, General Anderson and General Merritt had left
+the Philippine Islands and General Otis was in command. He announced
+that the government of the United States would be extended over the
+islands of the archipelago. Next day Aguinaldo retorted with what was
+virtually a declaration of war. From then on he and his advisers
+hastened their preparations for the conflict. Members of the native
+militia who were living in Manila under the protection of the American
+garrison were warned to stand ready to receive the signal which should
+start the sack and pillage of the city and the massacre of its
+inhabitants. By the end of January there were about thirty thousand
+Filipinos under arms fronting the American lines outside the city, all
+keyed up for the moment when they should be let loose to drive the
+Americans into the sea. This time the spoils of Manila should not be
+snatched from them!
+
+The signal for the advance was to be a conflagration in Manila. Ten
+thousand militiamen were to rise, set fire to the city, free the Spanish
+prisoners of war, arm them with arms stored in the arsenal, and attack
+the Americans. They were to be promptly aided in this last detail by the
+thirty thousand Filipinos waiting outside, who, surrounding the city,
+would drive back the fourteen thousand American soldiers upon their
+burning citadel and upon the two hundred thousand Filipinos, who would
+by this time have joined their countrymen. If everything had worked out
+as he had planned, Aguinaldo might very probably have entered the city.
+
+He chose a night early in February, at a time when he knew the American
+reinforcements which had been ordered could not yet have arrived. Firing
+began about nine o'clock in the evening, near the San Juan bridge, and
+continued during the night. Meanwhile, the militia in the city tried to
+assemble, but the groups were promptly fired on and dispersed. In the
+morning the ships of Dewey's fleet opened fire from the flanks of the
+American line. A little later our troops sprang forward and swept their
+antagonists before their fierce attack. In this encounter the Filipinos
+lost about eight hundred, and the Americans two hundred and fifty.
+
+For a week the insurgents were quite demoralized, and no wonder, for
+this was not the way they had expected the "cowardly" Americans to act.
+But when they saw that our men did not follow up their advantage by
+pursuit, their courage revived and they began once more to believe those
+things which they wished to believe. Our troops had to stay where they
+were because they had not sufficient transportation to take them
+anywhere else, because the enemy within the city still needed their
+attention, and because their reinforcements had not arrived.
+
+When these came, General Otis divided his forces. General MacArthur
+began a movement from his right against the insurgents, who contested
+every village and locality capable of defense, and burned every train
+before abandoning it to American hands. The insurgent capital, Malolos,
+was occupied. In April, General Lawton took Santa Cruz. The American
+casualties during these operations were about ten thousand officers and
+men, but the sick report listed fifteen per cent of the expedition,
+mostly from heat prostration.
+
+[Illustration: SAN JUAN BRIDGE.]
+
+General Lawton, who went out early in 1899, and was killed in December
+of the same year at San Mateo, is believed to have been perhaps the most
+able of our commanders.
+
+Uniformly the Filipinos lost, but when their courage waned their
+officers would announce that they had won a big victory somewhere else.
+In one day, they reported, we had lost twenty-eight thousand men, in a
+region where in the entire month we had lost but fifty-six. On another
+occasion they announced that two thousand colonels had been killed. They
+must have thought our troops were all from Kentucky.
+
+All summer and into the fall this more or less formal and regular
+warfare continued. But by that time Aguinaldo had decided that while a
+concentrated field army might appear more impressive to foreigners and
+be better for advertising purposes, it was not effective for his
+purpose, and some change must be made. The discontent among the
+conservative men who still had anything to lose was increasing, while
+the labourers in the fields, the fishermen, and the great masses of the
+people were growing weary of the war and the exactions of the commanders
+of their troops. The spell which Aguinaldo had cast over Luzon was
+almost broken. The war was nearly over, it seemed--in a civilized
+country it would have been over.
+
+To the Americans it appeared that the insurrection had been destroyed,
+and that all they now had to do was to sweep up the remnants of the
+insurgent forces by a system of police administration not likely to be
+either difficult or dangerous. In November, MacArthur had his force
+ready to strike anything within reach, but there seemed to be nothing
+within reach to strike. He soon came to the conclusion that there was no
+organized resistance left, that the insurgent army had broken into
+fragments which would soon become banditti. The disbandment of the
+insurgent field forces, which the American authorities took to mean the
+coming of a general submission to our rule, was followed by a long
+period of inactivity. This, of course, strengthened the impression, but
+the time was being used by the Filipinos to prepare for a new method
+of warfare and to organize for resistance by means of a general banding
+of the people together in support of the guerillas in the field.
+
+[Illustration: GENERAL LAWTON.]
+
+To obtain this necessary coöperation the leaders announced the
+inflexible principle that every native residing within the limits of the
+archipelago owed active individual allegiance to the insurgent cause.
+This was enforced by severe penalties, including burial alive, which
+were systematically exacted. There was little resistance on the part of
+the victims, who accepted the new policy with a curious combination of
+loyalty, apathy, ignorance and timidity.
+
+In this way there arose a strange system of dual government, in many
+cases the town officials openly serving the Americans while they were
+secretly aiding the insurrection, and with apparently equal solicitude
+for both. Each town was the base for the neighbouring guerillas, and
+when a band was too hard pressed it would dissolve and take refuge in
+its own community. This was easy enough to accomplish, with the aid of
+the people, for it took very little to transform a Filipino soldier into
+a good imitation of a peaceful native.
+
+Several months before the formal declaration of guerilla warfare in
+November of 1899, the Filipino commanders had adopted a policy of
+occupying a succession of strong defensive positions and forcing our
+army to a never ending repetition of tactical deployments. This they did
+with such skill that they were for a time successful. The native force
+would hover within easy distance of the American camps, but would avoid
+close conflict and temporarily disband. This would not be regarded by
+them as a calamity, but simply as a change from one form of action to
+another, and even a positive advantage.
+
+By February of 1900, General Bates had succeeded in scattering the
+larger bodies in the south of Luzon, and while some of the Filipino
+leaders and their followers abandoned the cause, which they saw was
+hopeless, others returned to the life of bandits, which in many cases
+had probably been their profession before the war. When their guns were
+gone they took up the knife and the torch. They did not cease to call
+themselves soldiers of the republic, but they were not in reality.
+
+By September General MacArthur, who had succeeded General Otis in
+command of the American forces in the Islands, realized that the
+opposition to American control came from the towns, and that the
+guerilla bands could not exist without their support. At first he
+thought that on account of the efficiency of his troops, the natives
+would be actuated both by conviction and self-interest to support him.
+But four months later he saw that further pressure was needed to secure
+this. So he ordered that all persons suspected of contraband traffic
+with insurgent organizations should be arrested and sent to Manila. In
+January, 1901, he ordered the deportation to Guam of twenty-six Filipino
+leaders, sympathizers, and agents, who were to remain there until peace
+had been formally declared. Two months later, Aguinaldo was captured by
+the dare-devil Funston of "the Suicide Squad."
+
+The effect of this measure was to alarm the leaders, of course, who now
+realized that they could be held responsible for their acts. Orders were
+also issued that all men who surrendered should be disarmed but released
+at once, while those captured in the field or arrested in the towns
+should be held in custody till the end of the war. A letter was found,
+written by a bandit leader, in March, saying that he was ordered to
+"proceed more rapidly" with his operations, "as Bryan ordered Emilio
+(Aguinaldo) to keep the war going vigorously until April." However true
+that may have been, it is certain that the encouragement which the
+insurgents received from the country they were fighting much prolonged
+hostilities and caused the loss of many lives on both sides.
+
+It is hard to realize at this distance the lengths to which the
+anti-imperialists went, or were willing to go, in those days. Governor
+Pack told me of an experience he had with one of them--a New Englander
+of good family and American antecedents. Pack was on his way out to the
+Islands at the time, and on arriving at Hongkong received the tidings of
+McKinley's assassination. He was surprised to see this man, a
+fellow-passenger, rush up to a Filipino with the news and shake his
+hand, congratulating him on what had happened. The Governor, then a
+young civilian, could not forget the shocking incident and later, when
+they shared the same stateroom on the small boat for Manila, he
+discovered papers which proved that his companion intended to furnish
+aid and encouragement to any natives who wished to fight against
+American "tyranny." This discovery gave Pack his appointment as one of
+the seven lieutenant governors of the hill tribes. But the other man was
+punished only by being refused entrance to the Islands. It was the
+stupid and foolish fashion in America then--as indeed it still is--to
+call this particular form of treason Idealism, and be lenient with it.
+
+Our soldiers found it difficult to take seriously the bands of half
+naked men, who, they knew, had been pillaging the villages of their own
+race. It was true that these bands were difficult to pursue and capture,
+but an army which fought only from ambush, whose detachments fell only
+upon stragglers and carefully avoided the main body of its enemy, and
+which showed no regard for the sacredness of a flag of truce, could not
+inspire much respect. Plunder appeared to be the sole excuse for its
+existence, and the pompous titles assumed by its commanders were amusing
+for the leaders of robbers. The Americans followed the retreating
+bandits without hatred and without fear. But they became weary of the
+eternal pursuit, and felt a growing irritation.
+
+The Filipinos, however, felt very differently about their soldiers, and
+it is only fair to give their side too, especially as it may throw some
+light on the Mexican situation. Even the richest and most highly
+educated men found nothing to laugh at in these poor bands which were
+after all composed of their own people fighting and suffering for a
+cause which they could at least understand, whether or not they
+sympathized with it. They did not regard the pillaging, tortures, and
+murders to which the Filipinos subjected their own people as we did.
+They called the robbery "collecting contributions for the support of the
+war." As for the murders--in the Orient to kill is an immemorial right
+of the rulers of men. What if they did fight disguised as peaceful
+country folk? They were a weak people fighting against a strong. They
+were naked and they were hungry, and they were fighting for a cause.
+Their arms were often of little use, and they made powder out of match
+heads and cartridge shells out of the zinc roofs of parish buildings,
+and even then they had only ammunition enough to fire a few volleys and
+then run. But men so armed had forced the United States to send out
+nearly seventy thousand well equipped soldiers to subdue them. To the
+native Filipino, as perhaps to the Mexican to-day, the ragged and half
+savage figures of the guerillas stood for their vision of a united race.
+
+But it was natural that our troops could not understand this, and that
+they should gradually become embittered against their antagonists. The
+officers, by the necessary division of our forces, found themselves
+confronted with conditions utterly alien to their experience. They had
+to live in native houses or churches, in the midst of four or five
+thousand people whose language they did not speak, and whose thoughts
+were not their thoughts. Most of them were young men. They came from all
+over the United States, and were neither monsters nor saints, but good
+examples of their time and country.
+
+When these officers learned that the dignified Asiatics who called upon
+them daily, who drank with them, who talked with them, and who held
+offices under our government, were also spies of the guerilla leaders,
+secretly aiding those who were anxious to win the price set on their
+heads, they were hardly pleased. When they found that every movement of
+the guerillas was reported to them just too late to be of any use, while
+every movement of their own small forces was promptly made known to the
+enemy, and when they were present at the disinterment of the twisted
+bodies of the men who had been buried alive because they were loyal to
+us, they decided that stricter measures were necessary. This was a state
+of war. Within wide limits their will was law. Upon their judgment hung
+not merely their lives and those of their men, but the honour of their
+country and their regiment. Perhaps in some cases they met cruelty with
+cruelty, but they at least tried to be honest and just. And the people
+came to realize this, and also that they were not afraid, with the
+result that whole communities transferred their allegiance from their
+own guerilla leaders to a single young American, not because he
+understood them or sympathized with them, but because he was a man whom
+they could trust and respect.
+
+It was July of 1902, four years after our taking of Manila, before the
+Islands could be officially declared pacified. Let us hope that the
+lessons which we learned then may not be forgotten in our dealings with
+Mexico.[14]
+
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER IV
+
+FOLLOWING THE FLAG
+
+  They taught Filipinos the right way to work,
+    And they taught as if teaching were fun;
+  They taught them to spell and to build themselves roads,
+    And the best way to handle a gun.
+  Were their salaries so big that the task was worth while?
+    Did they save a centavo of pay?
+  Have the average men an account with the bank?
+    Never a cent--not they.
+
+  So we haven't a job and we haven't a cent,
+    And nobody cares a damn;
+  But we've done our work and we've done it well,
+    To the glory of Uncle Sam,
+  And we've seen a lot, and we've lived a lot
+    In these islands over the sea--
+  Would we change with our brothers grown rich at home?
+    Praise be to God--not we.
+
+                     _From "The Swan Song," in the Manila Bulletin._
+
+
+It is, strangely enough, to the influence of that arch anti-imperialist,
+William Jennings Bryan, that we owe the ratification of the Treaty of
+Paris, which not only ended the war with Spain but expressly provided
+for the purchase of the Philippine Islands. The Democrats were opposed
+to the treaty and were powerful enough in the Senate to have held it
+up, had not Bryan used his authority to secure the two-thirds vote
+needed for its ratification. It is amusing to note that a year later,
+after enabling us to acquire the islands, he used all his power to
+prevent our keeping them. He was at this time in need of a popular plank
+in his third presidential platform, and the sorrows of the Filipinos
+suited his purpose admirably.
+
+Soon after the Treaty of Paris, and long before the end of the
+insurrection, McKinley appointed a commission of experts to go out to
+the Islands and report to him on conditions there. They found a country
+whose civilization was, to put it hopefully, at a standstill. It was too
+big a problem to be straightened out by a few ambitious Filipinos. The
+Commission returned to America convinced of the necessity of our
+occupation.
+
+Congress soon passed a special organic act for the organization of a
+civil government in the Islands, to succeed the military rule then in
+force. In 1900, President McKinley appointed the second Commission,
+headed by Mr. Taft, which was instructed to assume control of the
+Islands, gradually relieving the army wherever conditions allowed of
+their doing so.
+
+This Commission had five members, three of them lawyers (two of whom
+had been on the bench), and two professors. Its functions were at first
+legislative and judicial, but in 1901, when the president of the
+Commission, Mr. Taft, became Governor General of the Islands, the other
+members were given the portfolios of the different departments and
+executive power in the pacified parts of the Islands. Dean C. Worcester,
+a member of the earlier Commission and already an authority on the
+Philippines, became the first Minister of the Interior; Luke E. Wright,
+the Vice Governor, had the Department of Commerce and Police; H. C. Ide,
+former Chief Justice of Samoa, had charge of Finance and Justice, while
+Professor Moses was put at the head of Public Instruction. Governor Taft
+became really the "Father of the Philippines," for when he left the
+Islands in 1904 to become Secretary of War he had even higher authority
+over them than he had had as governor, while still later, as President
+of the United States, he was able to see that the same high standard of
+appointments was maintained.[15]
+
+McKinley charged this Commission that their work was "_not to subjugate,
+but to emancipate_." We made many mistakes, for we were new to the
+business and dealing with a strange people, but until very lately even
+the selfishness which is supposed to be inherent in party politics has
+been absent in our dealings with this people, whom we considered our
+sacred charge. No one ever asked an American official in the Islands
+what his politics were. Even the governorship itself was out of the
+reach of the spoilsman. Of the five governors who were appointed by the
+Republican administrations, only one besides the first governor belonged
+to the dominant party, and he was in office but a few months.
+
+Since the Taft Commission first organized, several changes have taken
+place. Filipino members have been added, and it has acquired the
+character of an upper house, rather than a legislature. The work of a
+lower house is done by the Assembly, made up of eighty-one members
+chosen by the people of the Christian tribes. They have no authority
+over the Moro and other non-Christian tribes, which are legislated for
+by the Commission directly. To-day the Filipinos control their
+municipal and county governments, but their finances are kept under
+supervision.
+
+The problems which the Commissioners had to solve were many and varied.
+Trade was at a standstill. During the last normal year under Spain the
+exports from the Islands had amounted to about sixteen million dollars.
+By 1912 they had more than trebled. There was also a currency problem.
+Coins from everywhere--Mexico, China, America, India--were in common
+circulation, with almost daily fluctuations in value. The Islands now
+have their own money on a gold basis. Then, close on the heels of the
+insurrection, came a famine. Locusts swept over the land and destroyed
+what little grain the war had left. The natives in some parts of the
+archipelago ate the locusts, however, and liked them, making the work of
+the officials more difficult. Grain shipped from America decayed in the
+storehouses before it could be distributed, and, as if that were not
+enough, carabaos died by the thousand from rinderpest.
+
+But the most difficult of all was the problem of the friar lands.
+Thousands of acres of valuable land had been acquired during Spanish
+rule by the different orders of monks, and held by them with great
+profit. One of the chief causes of Aguinaldo's rebellion was the
+exactions of these wealthy churchmen, which galled a patient people into
+final revolt, and during the ascendancy of the insurgent government
+resulted in the confiscation of Church property and the flight of the
+friars. These men took refuge in Manila, and petitioned the new
+government for a settlement of their claims. Their legal rights were not
+to be disputed, but to return them to their property and protect them
+there would have brought on us the increased enmity of a people whose
+friendship we were trying to win. The friends of the friars were no
+friends of the people. It was decided to have the Philippine Government
+buy these lands from the Church, which was accordingly arranged. Even
+this was not a popular solution, but seems to have been the best that
+could be done under the circumstances. One-third of these lands are
+still vacant.
+
+Road building was one of the most baffling of the problems. The people
+had no appreciation of the necessity for good roads, and would not pay
+for them nor help keep them in repair when they were built. For years
+the Commission toiled at the seemingly hopeless task, and it was not
+until Governor Forbes went out there from Boston that anything definite
+was accomplished. His native city should be very proud of his
+brilliantly successful administration, the proofs of which met us at
+every turn during our stay in the archipelago, and convinced us of the
+fatal mistake it is to allow such a position as Governor of the
+Philippines to become the prize of politicians. To the native mind his
+name became inseparably connected with roads. _Caminero_ means a road
+man, and Cameron Forbes is of course known to the Filipino as "Caminero
+Forbays." He had been a commissioner five years when made governor
+general, which office he held for four more. When Mr. Wilson became
+president, Governor Forbes was advised not to tender his resignation,
+for it was believed the new administration would wish to keep the
+Islands clear of the spoil system.
+
+Suddenly out of a clear sky, the Governor General received this
+cablegram from the Insular Bureau:
+
+"Harrison confirmed August 21st. The President desires him to sail
+September 10th. Will it be convenient to have your resignation accepted
+September 1st. Harrison to accept and take the oath of office September
+2nd. The President desires to meet your convenience. Should Harrison
+take linen, silver, glass, china and automobiles? What else would you
+suggest? Wife and children will accompany him. Please engage for him
+servants you leave."
+
+[Illustration: BENGUET ROAD]
+
+Worst of all, it was given out to the papers before the Governor
+received it, so that certain anti-American sheets in Manila had the
+pleasure of flaunting the news on their front pages for him to read.
+Surely some more considerate and courteous method of retiring a fine
+administrator might have been devised than this abrupt and rude
+dismissal, and it would seem that petty household matters might have
+been kept separate.
+
+Secretary Worcester, also a native of New England, who is the greatest
+living authority on the Islands, and whose achievements with the wild,
+non-Christian tribes had been marvelous--to say nothing of his other
+excellent work--had also of course to resign. Forbes, by the way, is not
+a Republican, but neither is he a Democrat, and Independents are not
+politically useful.
+
+The work of the administration immediately preceding that of Governor
+Harrison is worth at least a partial summary. Besides building roads,
+establishing a good health resort at Baguio, systematizing the work of
+the government, reducing the number of bureaus, cutting down expenses
+and eliminating duplication of work, and numerous other public services,
+Governor Forbes succeeded in accomplishing the following:
+
+The reorganization of the merchant marine.
+
+The construction of aids to navigation--buoys, lighthouses and beacons,
+wharves and harbours.
+
+The removal of restrictions from shipping.
+
+The establishment of a policy for the exclusive use of permanent
+materials in construction, practically all the construction in the
+Islands being done of reinforced concrete and selected woods.
+
+The passage of a law providing for proper development of irrigation,
+laying aside an annual sum for that purpose.
+
+The establishment of a cadastral law for registering law titles. "Under
+this system it was possible to get land titles settled, one of the most
+difficult and important problems confronting any government and one
+bearing directly on the welfare of the people in various ways.
+
+"A general system was adopted of loaning to provinces and municipalities
+to encourage them in the construction of public works, particularly
+those of a revenue-bearing nature; most especially markets, which
+improved the sanitary condition of the food supply and proved both
+popular with the people and profitable for the municipalities; these
+markets usually paid for themselves in five years from the increased
+revenues.
+
+[Illustration: FIRST PHILIPPINE ASSEMBLY.]
+
+"The Governor's influence was used throughout to make the instruction in
+the schools practical in its nature; children were taught to make things
+that would prove to be salable and which would give them a living. The
+dignity of labour was emphasized. Encouragement was given to foster the
+construction of railroads.
+
+"The establishment of a postal savings bank encouraged the children to
+invest. Prizes were given for that child or school which showed the best
+record." (Governor Forbes took an especial interest in the latter.)
+
+The first general election was held in the Islands on the third of July,
+1907, to choose delegates for the Assembly. Before that the Philippine
+Commission had been the sole legislative body. The delegates were chosen
+from the thirty-five Christian provinces. At that time only a minute
+percentage of the population, even among the Filipinos, was qualified to
+meet the simple conditions which would enable them to vote, and to-day
+the percentage is far from large. The electorate consists mainly of two
+classes, the ilustrados, or educated natives and mestizos,[16] and the
+_taos_, or peasants. The latter are not only ignorant but indifferent,
+with no vision beyond what their eyes can see, and no interest in who
+governs them, so long as crops are good and taxes low. One of the tasks
+of our representatives is to educate and awaken these people to
+responsible citizenship. It is a task still far from accomplishment.
+
+It must be admitted that the work of the Assembly to-day, after eight
+years of fair trial, does not encourage Filipinization of the service.
+It is fortunate--at times--that the two legislative bodies have equal
+power not only to initiate legislation but to block the passage of each
+other's bills. In this way the Commission has been able to hold up some
+of the freak legislation sent up to it by the lower body. The Manila
+_Times_ has published a list of the laws which were wanted by the
+Filipino assemblymen recently. They spent the valuable time of the
+entire first session talking them over and the Commission refused to
+concur. One was to increase their own salaries, of course. Another
+was to erect monuments to all the ilustrados who had cried "_Bajo los
+Americanos_" most loudly. Others wanted to fly the Philippine flag above
+the American on all masts, to make a legal holiday of the birthday of
+Rizal's grandmother, and to free all prisoners, no matter what their
+crimes.
+
+[Illustration: OSMEÑA, THE SPEAKER OF THE FIRST ASSEMBLY.]
+
+As may be imagined, a body of men which can pass such bills is quite
+capable of blocking the sane legislation which comes to them for
+approval, and unfortunately they have the power to do this. The way in
+which the slavery question was handled illustrates their methods.
+
+Slavery was known to exist in the Islands, and to take two
+forms,--actual slavery, where one person was sold by another, and a sort
+of semi-slavery, or peonage, where a man sold his services for debt.
+
+The peon was given his keep, but the interest on his debt was added
+faster than he could earn. He was really a slave, except that he had
+sold himself rather than been sold by another. But his debts might be
+bought and sold, so that it amounted to the same thing in the end.
+Interest was sometimes as high as ten per cent a month, while fifty
+cents a month was allowed for his services. Worcester in his book tells
+of a man who borrowed $1.25, which he and his wife and children worked
+several years in the effort to repay; but by that time the amount had
+become $37.50!
+
+Spain had nominally abolished slavery long before, but it had continued
+in force in both the Christian and non-Christian provinces. The
+legislators themselves held peons. The law of Congress creating the
+Philippine Government prohibited slavery, but there are no penalties
+attached, so it could not be enforced.
+
+The Filipinos denied that slavery existed in the Islands. Worcester made
+a careful investigation, and an exhaustive report on both slavery and
+peonage. All but a few copies of this report were burned by a Filipino
+official. It was a subject which neither the Filipino politician nor
+their self-styled friends the anti-imperialists wished to see discussed
+in print. The Manila papers had been absolutely silent on the subject,
+and even the anti-slavery legislation which was finally forced through,
+after having been tabled again and again without so much as the briefest
+formality of discussion, passed unnoticed. It was a sore subject, and
+the Filipino method of treating a sore subject is not to heal it, but to
+refrain from discussing it.
+
+There is no question but we have given the Filipinos too much power for
+their own good. They now, under the Democratic Administration, have five
+members in the Commission, to America's four. They have to-day much
+power--only colonies such as Canada and Australia have more, while Egypt
+has been given less in a generation than the Filipinos have received in
+ten years.
+
+The present governor, Francis Burton Harrison, has been severely
+criticized. His party was pledged to a rapid Filipinization which has
+proved disastrous, for it was devised by men wholly ignorant of the
+situation. The destruction of the wonderful civil service system so
+carefully built up in the early days as an object lesson to Spanish-bred
+politicians, is only one of many changes which have been brought about.
+
+We have certainly lost prestige in the Islands under the Democratic
+Administration. Filipinos no longer remove their hats during the playing
+of the Star Spangled Banner on the Luneta, so Governor Harrison finally
+tried to discontinue the playing of the national anthem. The American
+community would not stand this, however, so it was resumed. In many
+other ways the Filipinos have become "cocky." This of course does not
+apply to the tao, who plods along regardless of politics.
+
+A friend wrote me recently, "I don't think I could give you a more
+accurate idea of what most Americans and British, and even intelligent
+natives, think of this Democratic administration than to repeat a
+conversation I overheard in the Fort McKinley cars one morning between
+two coloured American soldiers. They began by laughing at Harrison's
+'give them what they want' speech, and speaking of the Filipinos as
+'spoiled children.' 'Well,' said one dusky brave, 'we have one more year
+of this rotten administration, then, thank Gawd, we'll have a white
+man's government!'"
+
+Professor Thomas Lindsey Blayney writes in one of the magazines: "I
+talked with business men, native and foreign educators, clergymen, army
+and navy officers, editors American and British, and many Filipinos of
+undoubted patriotism and intelligence, and I do not hesitate to assure
+you that the demoralizing tendency of the policies of the present
+American administration in the Islands is deserving of the widest
+publicity." The situation, he says, "is bidding fair to become a
+national disgrace if we allow politics and sentiment to take the place
+of reason and justice." He goes on to say, "There is no phenomenon of
+our national life more passing strange than that which induces many of
+our good people to accept the statements of paid emissaries of the
+Filipino junto, or some of our new and inexperienced officials at
+Manila, rather than those of our fellow countrymen of long
+administrative experience in the Islands.... The loss of men like
+Governor Forbes, Mr. Worcester, Dr. Heiser, and others, is looked upon
+as a distinct setback in the development of better and more stable
+institutions in the entire Orient in the interest of humanity as a
+whole."
+
+All of which only bears out what Lord Cromer told Mr. Forbes--"If your
+personnel employed in the administration of dependencies at a distance
+becomes subject to change with changing political parties, you are
+doomed to failure in your effort to govern countries overseas."
+
+There has recently been a great financial depression in the Islands, due
+partly to hoarding against threatened independence, and partly to the
+difficulty the new Filipino officials of the Bureau of Internal Revenue
+find in collecting the usual amount. A slump in real estate followed
+quickly upon the news that we might shortly leave the Islands.
+Rinderpest, the cattle plague which had worked such havoc and which had
+finally been conquered after tremendous expenditure of money and energy,
+broke out again immediately upon the substitution of Filipinos for
+white men in the service. Some time the good people at home will learn
+that giving a child candy because it cries for candy is not always the
+best thing for the child. The Filipinos are in many ways children,
+delightful ones, with charming manners, but needing a firm and even rule
+till they come of age and take over their own affairs. Most Filipinos of
+intelligence realize this. In fact, they have of late been rushing in
+petitions signed by their best and most influential citizens urging the
+retention of the Islands in their present standing.
+
+What the Filipino wishes for himself depends upon the man. Only one in
+ten, among the civilized tribes, knows anything about the discussion of
+independence. The taos would like independence if they believe it to be
+what their politicians have told them--freedom to do as they please, and
+exemption from taxes. Otherwise they are not interested.
+
+When the Jones bill was being discussed a Moro elevator boy at the War
+Department in Washington was asked, "If the Filipinos are given their
+independence, how will you feel?" "I am an American now," he answered,
+"but if that happen--I go back, and with the Moros fight the
+Filipinos!"
+
+Most people fail to realize that the Islands are no financial burden to
+this country. They are, and have always been, wholly self-supporting.
+Their revenues pay their bills, and their taxes, incidentally, are the
+lowest in the civilized world. We keep soldiers there but only the cost
+of their transportation is extra.
+
+Our rule in the Philippines has been the greatest of all paradoxes, a
+benevolent despotism working ardently for its own destruction. This is
+very unusual, and rather fine. We ought to be proud of what we have
+done, and very anxious to see the work well finished. Good men have
+given their lives for it, and few of those who lived have come out after
+years of thankless toil in a tropical land, with as much as they had
+when they went into the service. We owe it to them and to our helpless
+wards, as well as to our national honour, to see the thing through.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER V
+
+HEALING A NATION
+
+
+The sanitary conditions which existed in the Islands twenty odd years
+ago would seem to us appalling, but perhaps they were no worse than
+those of some other tropical countries at that time. Even the most
+progressive colonizers, like the English, had given up trying radical
+reforms, contenting themselves with making passably healthful
+conditions, especially for the European part of the towns. The
+combination of climate and native inertia seemed to them one which it
+was difficult and almost hopeless to combat. So it remained for us to
+prove that the thing could be done--that a tropical country could be
+made sanitary and hygienic for all its inhabitants, whether they were
+white or brown or yellow, and whether they wanted it made so or not. If
+we had done nothing else for our restless dependency, that achievement
+would be a sufficient crown of glory.
+
+Manila was then, as it still is, the most highly civilized spot in the
+Islands. As I have said, much of the walled city was built of stone
+and plaster, but many of the natives in the suburbs lived in one-room
+houses made of wood and raised on stilts. No provision whatever was made
+for drainage or for the removal of garbage. Each house was a law unto
+itself and very often an offense unto its neighbours.
+
+[Illustration: _A Carabao_]
+
+A large part of the city drained, directly or indirectly, into the Pasig
+River. Here, also, the carabao, which is not a fastidious animal, went
+for his mud baths, and the women washed their clothes. This river
+furnished drinking water for all who lived near enough to share the
+privilege. It was said to have a flavour like the Ganges, which they
+sorely missed later on when a purer supply was substituted.
+
+The medieval wall, which allowed for many damp, unhealthy corners,
+interfered with municipal ventilation. No cleansing winds can sweep
+through a city whose every street ends in a high wall. Outside was a
+stagnant moat which made a convenient breeding place for the industrious
+mosquito.
+
+The local market used to be a community dwelling for all the vendors,
+who lived there, reveling in their filth. Their children were born
+there, also their dogs, pigs, cats, and chickens. It was so vile
+smelling that no American dared go into it. Never being cleaned, it was
+the center from which disease was spread to the city.
+
+These markets were the first places to be cleaned by the Americans. The
+first step was always to burn up the entire shed, and then build an iron
+and concrete structure, which could be washed down every night with a
+hose. Only the night watchman was allowed to live there.
+
+This is only typical of changes made in every department, from market to
+school, from custom house to palace. To tell a long story very shortly,
+gaps have been opened in the city walls to let in the air, the moat has
+been filled in with soil dredged from the bay to make a field for
+sports, nearby marshes have been reclaimed and old wells filled up,
+while a sewerage system and a method of collecting refuse have of course
+been established. The new water system has cut the death rate from
+water-borne diseases in half. To stop an epidemic whole districts of
+huts which could not be fumigated were burned and others were sprayed
+with strong disinfectants by fire engines. Slowly the people are being
+taught the rules of hygiene. The new and up-to-date medical school is
+turning out very good doctors, and the school of nursing, most excellent
+nurses, who are gentle, cheerful and dainty.
+
+The modern hospitals were at first regarded with suspicion by the
+natives, who went with the greatest reluctance for treatment. But to-day
+the difficulty is to keep them out. A toothache is excuse enough for a
+week's sojourn with free board. The native doctor often is a skilful
+grafter, and has to be watched, otherwise he may pass in all his poor
+relations, more to give them food and rest than for illness. A friend
+was much annoyed while sick in a Manila hospital by some Filipina girls
+in pink and lilac hospital gowns who were romping through the corridors.
+Her nurse explained that they were passed in by the native doctor. One
+of these physicians had every bed in his ward filled with patients who
+were not ill but just enjoying themselves. Some of these doctors abuse
+their authority in other ways. One of them, it was discovered, used to
+go to San Lazaro, the hospital for contagious diseases, and take friends
+who were detained there with leprosy to ride in public vehicles.
+
+But aside from occasional abuses by natives, the work which has been
+done for the public health in Manila is an example of what has been
+accomplished elsewhere. In many of the provincial towns the introduction
+of artesian wells has brought the death rate tumbling down to half its
+former size. The work was carried on under disadvantages at first, for
+it was the butt of much ridicule and abuse--the former from abroad, the
+latter from the native press. Medical authorities in other parts of the
+Far East laughed at our efforts to create better conditions for the
+Filipinos, and told us that Orientals were incapable of sanitary
+reforms. Before long, these same men were seeking to learn by what magic
+we had accomplished what they had hardly dared even attempt, and were
+sending delegates to Manila to study our methods.[17]
+
+When Americans went there they found the Filipinos a race of
+semi-invalids. Those who had managed to survive the various scourges
+which were constantly sweeping the Islands were often infected with
+hookworm or similar parasites which sapped their vitality. Many of them
+were tubercular, and most of them were under-fed. The laziness which
+made several Filipino workmen equal to one American was much of it due
+to actual physical weakness. As a people, they are showing a marked
+improvement in energy and activity. It was from changes of this sort
+that the would-be benevolent anti-imperialists laboured to save them.
+
+Of course, a great deal remains for us to do. Half the babies still die
+before they are a year old. Only a beginning has been made in stamping
+out tuberculosis. The people have not yet been educated out of that
+fatalism which makes them prefer acceptance of evil to fighting it. But
+as fast as they learn English they come under our educative influence
+more and more.
+
+Dr. Richard P. Strong, whom we knew when we were in the Islands and who
+is now at the Harvard Medical School lecturing on tropical diseases, has
+done many notable things in various parts of the world. We all know
+about his wonderful work in the northern part of China, when the
+pneumonic plague[18] was raging there a few years ago, and still later
+his heroism among the typhus-stricken soldiers of Serbia. But we do not
+all know that, among other things, he has discovered a cure for a
+dreadful skin disease called yaws, which has been prevalent in the
+Philippines. A doctor in Bontoc cured a case with a single injection of
+salvarsan. The "case" was so delighted that he escaped from the
+hospital before a second injection could be given him, rushed home to
+his native village, and returned a day or so later with a dozen or more
+of his neighbours who were suffering from the same trouble.
+
+We were fortunate in traveling through the Islands with Dr. Heiser, who
+had entire control of the health conditions there for many years--in
+fact, until the Democratic administration. To him is largely due the
+practical disappearance of smallpox from the Philippines. When the
+Americans took over the country there were sometimes over fifty thousand
+deaths a year from this one disease. The change is the direct result of
+the ten million vaccinations which were performed by American officials.
+An effort was made to entrust the vaccinating to Filipino officials, but
+epidemics kept breaking out, and it was discovered that their work was
+being done chiefly on paper.
+
+In a recent letter a friend writes, "The other day one of our servants,
+Crispin, was ill. I tried to get him to go to the hospital, but he
+insisted he was not sick. I did not enjoy having him wait on the table,
+for I thought he had measles. So I took him to the hospital myself and
+told him to do what the doctor said. When I returned home a telephone
+call summoned us to the hospital to be vaccinated at once, for Crispin
+had the smallpox! They sent him to San Lazaro, where he had a good time,
+and came home smiling, while we spent a miserable ten days waiting to
+see what was going to happen to us. The native _saindados_ came promptly
+to disinfect, but all they did was to put a bucket of something in the
+center of the room. I soon saw that they were not going to be thorough,
+so after ten minutes, just as they were going away, I called them back
+and telephoned to the board of health, asking if no American sanitary
+officer was coming. They said no, that Filipinos had been put in all the
+white men's places. So I went to work myself, burning bedding, clothes
+and hangings, and opening every trunk and closet. It was a revelation to
+those two little natives, who thought they had done enough before."
+
+Apparently the natives had the same aversion to the preventive method of
+vaccination that some of our own countryfolk have, for Dr. Heiser writes
+of the early work in the field: "Formerly ... the lives of the
+vaccinators were seriously threatened by persons who refused to be
+vaccinated. However, after much persuasion, a considerable number of the
+inhabitants were vaccinated. Shortly afterwards smallpox was introduced
+and the death rate among the unvaccinated became alarming; the people
+themselves then noted that in spite of the fact that the vaccinated
+persons frequently came in constant contact with the disease they did
+not contract it, while the unvaccinated died in large numbers. This led
+to urgent request being made for vaccination and the vaccinators who
+previously found their lives in constant danger were welcomed."
+
+But perhaps Dr. Heiser's greatest work has been done in freeing the
+Islands of the worst-feared disease of all times and nations--leprosy. I
+was walking along the street with him one day when he noticed the
+swollen ear lobes of a man near by. It was one of the first symptoms of
+leprosy. He stopped and spoke to the man and walked with him to the
+hospital. The disease is not really so much to be feared as people
+think, for it is seldom inherited and is not easily contagious.
+
+We had planned to go to Culion, the beautiful island where thousands of
+lepers have been taken to live or to die, and where they have every care
+and comfort that science and unselfish devotion can give them.
+Unfortunately for us, the Secretary of War was obliged to cut the trip
+short, owing to official business in Manila, so we did not go there. We
+heard so much about the place that this was a real disappointment.
+
+The island is a day's sail from Manila. It is well forested, and has
+hills and fertile valleys and a fine harbour. The more important
+buildings of the town which the authorities knew would be needed by the
+thousands of lepers then at large, were built from the foundations
+entirely of concrete, for sanitary reasons and economy. Besides hundreds
+of houses, one finds there to-day a theater, a town hall, a school,
+dining halls, hospitals, stores, docks and warehouses. Water, lighting
+and sewerage systems were also constructed, and a separate settlement
+was built for the non-leprous employees.
+
+Culion is really a leper's heaven. The people have perfect freedom, and
+live normal lives, farming or fishing when they are able, carrying on
+their own government, having their own police force, playing in the band
+if they are musical, giving theatrical performances. They have social
+distinctions, too--those better born take the place denied them in the
+outer world because of their affliction. Here they are again Somebody.
+
+When Americans took possession of the Islands there were six thousand
+lepers at large. Two things evidently had to be done--first, prevent a
+further spread of the disease; and second, cure those who already had
+it, if this were possible.
+
+Segregation of all known cases, as fast as accommodations could be
+provided for them, was the immediate necessity. The colony at Culion was
+opened in 1906 with five hundred patients. These went reluctantly to
+their new abode, but once settled there, found it so much to their
+liking that they wrote home enthusiastically, and after that the
+authorities had no difficulty in persuading others to go. Indeed, the
+plight of these poor outcasts had been pitiful enough. They were so
+neglected that in one of the larger cities they had been known to go
+into the markets and handle the produce, as a protest against their
+treatment.
+
+More than eight thousand have been transferred to Culion in all, and
+to-day every known leper in the Philippines is there. New cases are
+still occasionally found, but even the worst provinces are now
+practically free from the historic scourge. It was that remarkable man,
+Dr. Heiser, who not only organized and carried out this great
+undertaking, but who himself saw to the smallest details. Many times he
+is known to have carried the loathsome patients in his own arms.
+
+The second problem, that of finding a cure, was not so easily solved.
+But it has been found, and our nation had the credit of finding it--"the
+first definite cure ever established," Dr. Heiser says. Two methods were
+tried out very carefully, both with some success. The first was the
+x-ray, which brought a marked improvement in most of the cases where it
+was used, and an apparent cure in one case. The other method was the use
+of chaulmoogra oil. This remedy had been known and used in the Far East
+for some time, but it could rarely be given long enough to produce much
+effect, because it was so unpleasant to swallow. Our doctors, however,
+devised ways of injecting it, after mixing it with resorcin and
+camphorated oil, so that there were no ill effects. Already several
+cures have resulted.
+
+Ten years ago there were forty thousand users of opium in the Islands.
+In five years that number was reduced ninety-five per cent, and most of
+those still addicted to the drug are Chinese. In the last few years,
+moreover, cholera and bubonic plague have been practically wiped out,
+but, of course, a few other tropical diseases still exist.
+
+The Philippine Assembly recently conceived the brilliant idea of cutting
+down expenses by halving the health appropriation. Dr. Heiser got
+permission to speak before them, but instead of talking a few minutes,
+as they expected, he spoke for three days. He told them that if they did
+not give him the money he needed for the work, he would be forced to
+economize by setting free the criminally insane, who, he promised,
+should be given tags stating that they had been set free by order of the
+Assembly. Also, he said, he would have to send back many of the lepers
+to their friends. It proved to be the way to deal with the child-like
+legislators, who in the end gave him what he wanted. Since that,
+however, he has resigned, and his loss will be sadly felt. Indeed, there
+has already been an outbreak of cholera since he left.
+
+Regenerative work among the Filipinos has by no means been confined to
+their bodies, however, for besides the educational advance that has been
+made in their schools, which I have mentioned elsewhere, their prisons
+have become sources of light instead of darkness. It is true that
+penology in the Philippines has gone ahead with great strides.
+
+In Bontoc, for instance, there is a prison which the commissioner in
+charge of the province proudly called his "university." Its inmates are
+men of the mountains. In the old days they would have been sent to
+Bilibid prison in Manila, where few of them lived over two years. A
+longer term meant practically a death sentence. This provincial jail is
+situated in the high and healthy capital of the province, and is kept
+clean and sanitary by the prisoners themselves. The men are well fed and
+cared for, and they are taught trades, and made to work at them, too, so
+that they learn industry along with technical skill.
+
+Bilibid prison is a huge institution. It occupies several acres of land
+in the heart of the city of Manila, its buildings radiating from a
+common center, so that the guard in the high tower at the hub can
+overlook anything that occurs. High walls surround the whole, patrolled
+by watchful guards and mounted with gatling guns. It is an extraordinary
+institution, inherited from Spanish rule, but, like everything else,
+completely changed since then. The wives of men committed there were
+considered widowed in those days, since so few survived a long term, and
+were free to marry again. There has been some confusion of late years,
+because most of the prisoners not only come out alive, but healthier
+than when they went in. So prison "widows" who remarried found that
+they had not counted on American methods. Bilibid, though in many ways
+still rather experimental, is a great success.
+
+There are extensive shops, and the prisoners are kept at work all the
+time. Some make silverware, carriages, and furniture, while others do
+the cooking and washing for the prison, make their clothes, and run a
+laundry, not only for their own use, but for outside custom. Many are
+employed in road building and on fortifications. Each man learns a trade
+during his term of imprisonment, and so is better able to earn an honest
+livelihood than when he entered. I have been told that Bilibid
+"graduates" are in demand because of their honesty and industry. No
+better recommendation for a prison could be desired.
+
+Besides the shops, there is a school in which they are taught English.
+The day we visited the prison we saw a teacher there who had been a
+guest at the Governor's table, but as he had forged a check he was
+paying the penalty. Most of the attendants in the up-to-date prison
+hospital were Spaniards who were in for life sentences and who made very
+good nurses. Part of this institution is devoted to consumptives, of
+whom there are so many in the Islands, and they receive treatment
+according to the best and latest methods.
+
+[Illustration: PENAL COLONY ON THE ISLAND OF PALAWAN.]
+
+We were much interested in the kitchens, and the manner in which food
+was issued to several thousands in only six minutes. It was all
+wonderfully systematized.
+
+Late in the afternoon we went up into the central tower to watch the
+"retreat." The prisoners' band, which had played for us as we entered
+the prison gates, now took its place in the courtyard below and began to
+play. Out of the workrooms trooped hundreds of convicts, who were
+searched for hidden implements and then released to take their position
+in military formation. The different groups marched to their quarters
+and, standing outside, went through a series of exercises to the music
+of the band. They seemed to enjoy this very much, and later, still to
+the music, marched gaily off to get their rations.
+
+A long-term prisoner with two years of good conduct to his credit is
+given the privilege of going to the penal colony on the island of
+Palawan. This island is one of the more southern ones, and is the place
+where the Spanish sent their convicts in the old days. But the present
+colony, which was established by Governor Forbes, is very different from
+the former one. It was once a malarial jungle, but now is a healthy,
+thoroughly up-to-date and successful reform institution.
+
+Our visit to this place was one of the most interesting features of our
+whole trip. Palawan itself is a curiosity, for it has an underground
+river which has been explored for two miles beneath a mountain. But the
+penal settlement is unique.
+
+Leaving the steamer at Puerto Princessa, a quaint little town with
+charming old Spanish gardens, we were met by a launch which took us up
+the Iwahig River to the colony. This launch, which was gaily decked with
+flags, was manned by convicts, the engineer himself being under a
+sentence of nineteen years for murder. After an hour's sail up the
+tropical river, we reached our destination. At the wharf we were greeted
+by Mr. Lamb, superintendent of the colony, a Dominican priest, and a
+crowd of prisoners who were enjoying a holiday.
+
+We were driven to headquarters, near a pretty plaza with hedges and
+flowers, surrounded by several two-story barracks built of bamboo and
+nipa, where the prisoners live. As we walked about the plaza we visited
+the hospital and the chapel, as well as the main office and the
+superintendent's house.
+
+The penal settlement is located on a reservation of two hundred and
+seventy square miles. At the time of our visit there were in all eleven
+hundred convicts--Filipinos for the most part, with a few Moros--and
+only three white men to keep them in order. The prisoners had all come
+from Bilibid prison.
+
+In its management, the colony is somewhat like the George Junior
+Republic for boys in America. The prisoners elect their own judges and
+make some of their own laws, subject to the approval of the
+superintendent. A majority verdict will convict, but the superintendent
+has the right to veto any measures. Men who break the laws are locked
+up, but can be released on bail.
+
+The police force is composed of convicts, of course. The chief of police
+when we were there was a murderer who had earned his pardon but
+preferred to remain in the settlement. If a prisoner tries to escape he
+is followed, and occasionally one is shot. The attempt is seldom made,
+for it is difficult to get away, and the men are, moreover, quite
+content to live there. Once thirty-five convicts did make a break for
+liberty, but beyond the confines of the settlement they found themselves
+in the midst of the savage Mangyans, by whom some were killed. Of the
+rest, those who were not captured alive returned of their own free will
+and were consigned again to Bilibid, which is considered a great
+punishment.
+
+For good behaviour, convicts may earn the right to have a house of their
+own, with their family, one bull or carabao, and a little farm to
+cultivate. There were then a hundred and eighty of these farmers, who
+raised their crops on shares, the government receiving half. They had to
+report to headquarters by telephone every other day and undergo a weekly
+inspection as well. Every year they were obliged to plant cocoanuts,
+which in a few years were expected to bring in large returns. Already
+great quantities of yams were being shipped to Bilibid, and in a short
+time enough cattle would be delivered there to supply, in part at least,
+the meat demand of that prison. The colony suggests the possible
+solution of the meat question for the American army in the Philippines,
+as they were successfully raising calves from native cows by Indian
+bulls.
+
+Although the majority of the prisoners were engaged in farming, they
+were often given the privilege of selecting the kind of work that they
+preferred, and were divided accordingly, their hats and the signs on the
+sleeves of their prison clothes showing what grade of convict they
+belonged to and what work they did. They were paid in the money of the
+colony, which was good nowhere else.
+
+There were about forty women on the reservation. The men might marry if
+they earned the privilege, or if already married, they might have their
+wives and children come to live with them. There were six marriages the
+year we were there. After receiving their pardons, they could remain on
+the island if they wished, their work being credited toward the purchase
+of their farms, but they had to continue under the laws of the colony.
+
+At the main office we saw four prisoners who were about to be pardoned.
+Governor Forbes very kindly asked me to hand them their pardons and ask
+any questions I wished. One, a _bandolero_, or brigand, was small and
+wizened. Another, who looked much like him, when asked what crime he had
+committed, laughed and answered, "Bigamy!" A third, a stolid, thickset
+fellow, had the best face of them all, but showed no emotion whatever
+when I gave him his pardon. He also had been a brigand.
+
+The convicts gave an exhibition fire drill for us at the barracks. The
+natives are born climbers, and scramble down the poles with the agility
+of monkeys. They also play baseball, of course. They are remarkably
+musical and have a good band.
+
+We had luncheon with Mr. and Mrs. Lamb in their pretty bamboo and nipa
+cottage. Mrs. Lamb was a frail little woman, but strong in spirit, for
+she did not seem at all afraid to live in this land of evil men. She
+told us that the three murderers whom she had as servants were very
+efficient, and were devoted to her little four-year-old son.
+
+When our visit ended we were driven in a wagon to the river, accompanied
+by a troop of prisoners who ran alongside shouting good-bys. At the
+wharf they lined up while Mr. Lamb and the priest bowed us politely
+aboard the launch.
+
+These intrepid countrymen of ours, who are healing and uplifting a whole
+people, seem to me to be true missionaries. The time may come when the
+work which they are doing will set a standard for us stay-at-homes to
+follow, that is, if we send the right kind of men out there. As the song
+says,
+
+  "Ah, those were the days when the best men won,
+    The survival of those that were fit--
+  When the work to be done counted everything,
+    And politics nary a bit."
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER VI
+
+DOG-EATERS AND OTHERS
+
+
+The natives of the Philippines are Malays, as I have said, but they are
+sometimes classified as Christian, Pagan and Mohammedan Malays. The
+Christian and educated tribes live near the coast on the lowlands and
+are called Filipinos. They have intermarried greatly with the Spaniards
+and Chinese. There are twenty-seven non-Christian tribes in the
+Islands--about four hundred thousand in number in the Mountain Province
+of Luzon alone. These hill people are seldom seen, although during the
+last few years most of the tribes have come under government influence
+and head-hunting has been more or less given up. These dwellers in the
+mountains include the aborigines who were driven out of the valleys by
+the Malays, and also the Malays of the earlier migration, who refused to
+embrace the Mohammedanism of the Moros of the southern islands or the
+Christianity of the Spaniards.
+
+We were fortunate in having the opportunity to see some of the
+dog-eaters and other hill people. Our party was divided, and while
+several of the men went into the heart of the head-hunting country, the
+rest of us took the train to Baguio, the mountain capital. What a night
+it was! The heat was frightful, and swarms of mosquitoes added to the
+torture. But at sunrise, as I sat on the back platform while the train
+steamed through rows of cocoanut palms, past little huts and stations, I
+was reminded of this verse:
+
+  "Mighty, luminous and calm
+  Is the country of the palm,
+    Crowned with sunset and sunrise,
+    Under blue unbroken skies,
+  Waving from green zone to zone,
+  Over wonders of its own;
+  Trackless, untraversed, unknown,
+    Changeless through the centuries."
+
+Leaving the tropics behind, we climbed up, up among the glorious
+mountains. At last the train stopped at a little station, and we took
+the motors that were waiting and went on higher and higher into
+cloudland, where the tall pines grew and the mountains rose into the
+sky. We had indeed ascended "into Paradise from Purgatory." As one
+resident in Manila expressed it: "The heavenly coolness, the sweet
+pine air and the exquisite scenery give you new life after the years
+spent in the heat, glare, dust and smells of the lowlands."
+
+[Illustration: THE PARTY AT BAGUIO.]
+
+We were passing over the far-famed Benguet Road, one of the finest
+highways in the world, which wound in and out through the gorges of the
+mountains, repeatedly crossing the river that roared beneath. For twenty
+miles we zigzagged up the slopes, with widening views of great hills
+opening before us, and cascades bursting out from beneath the mountains,
+till we came out on the plateau of Baguio, five thousand feet above the
+sea.
+
+This road, which has been a favourite theme for discussion by
+politicians, was opened to traffic in 1905. It is true that the cost of
+the roadway was beyond what anybody had anticipated, on account of the
+many bridges that had to be repaired each year after the rainy season,
+and also after the destructive typhoons that sweep over the island--one
+in 1911 brought a rainfall of forty-six inches in twenty-four
+hours--which hurl avalanches of débris from the mountain slopes. For
+this reason a new road from Bauang to Baguio has been commenced, not
+nearly so direct but requiring only a few bridges, and it is to be hoped
+will prove successful and more economical than the other.
+
+Baguio, in the midst of glorious mountain scenery, where the temperature
+never goes above eighty and the nights are deliciously cool, really is
+an ideal health resort for a tropical country. The Philippines have Mr.
+Worcester and Mr. Forbes to thank for this blessing. Government
+buildings were erected, and the whole force of the government was moved
+up there for the hot season, with the rich return of the improved health
+and greater efficiency of the employees. A hospital for tuberculosis was
+built, and a much needed school for American children, the Jesuit
+observatory was established, and Camp John Hay was laid out as a
+permanent military post. Many people bought land and put up little
+bungalows. A teachers' camp was started by the Bureau of Education for
+American teachers from all over the Islands, where they had not only
+rest and recreation but the mental brushing up of good lectures after
+months in lonely stations.
+
+When the Democratic Administration began its changes in the Philippines,
+government offices were ordered to be kept in Manila throughout the
+year, consequently only the higher officials were able to go to Baguio,
+with a result patent to every one in the lessened efficiency of the
+force. But within the last two or three years, the Filipinos have come
+to appreciate the place, which was a revelation to them. Now rich and
+poor manage to go there, and they have taken possession. The benefits of
+Baguio and the Benguet Road are felt even in Manila, where Americans are
+beginning to get fresh garden peas, summer squash, wax beans and real
+strawberries(!). A friend writes, "If the time ever comes when we can
+have real cow's milk and cream, then our food will be as good as
+anywhere in the States."
+
+We had a glorious week at Topside, Governor Forbes's attractive
+bungalow, and speedily became as enthusiastic in our praises of Baguio
+as every one else who has ever been there. I rode all day long on Black
+Crook, the most perfect polo pony in the world, through the mists and
+the sunlight and into the rainbow shades of the setting sun, where the
+clouds turned the colour of cockatoos' wings and the tints of the fish
+from the China Sea.
+
+  "Cloud Maidens that float on forever,
+  Dew-sprinkled, fleet bodies, and fair,
+  Let us rise from our Sire's loud river,
+    Great Ocean, and soar through the air
+  To the peaks of pine-covered mountains
+    Where the pines hang as tresses of hair."
+
+I played my first polo game at Baguio on the club grounds. Squash Pie,
+Calico Pie and other delightful names were given to the native ponies,
+which are small but very strong.
+
+We went to the government stock farm, where they are trying experiments
+in breeding horses. They had a native pony there that had been well fed
+and taken care of for some time, in order to show the difference between
+it and the forlorn animals that one might see anywhere in the towns. The
+native Spanish pony has greatly degenerated. At this farm they had a
+beautiful Arabian stallion and a Morgan stallion from Vermont. It is
+said that the first generation of American horses does well in the
+Philippines, but after that the climate and the change in food cause
+them to deteriorate. Besides, they are rather too big for mountain
+cavalry. The Arabian stallion and the native mare are said to breed the
+best kind of horse for this country. Black Scotch cattle and Australian
+cattle, which are raised at the government farm, do well. Sheep do not
+pay, for, to begin with, there is no market for the wool. Goats do well,
+and goats' milk is in great demand. The natives use principally the
+carabao and the native cattle, which look like small Jersey cows but are
+not very good.
+
+Another day, Mrs. Whitmarsh, from Boston, gave us a tea in a little
+house hung with orchids and Japanese lanterns, and we visited Mr.
+Whitmarsh's gold mine. Some of us went on horseback down into the valley
+to see the tunnels. We washed a pan of ore in the brook and found at the
+bottom little fine gold specks. The Benguet Igorots have mined gold for
+centuries.
+
+[Illustration: IGOROT SCHOOL GIRL WEAVING.]
+
+At Baguio we visited missionary and government schools and Camp John
+Hay, where Captain Hilgard gave us a reception. At the government school
+the Igorot boys are taught, among other things, to make attractive
+mission furniture, while the girls learn to weave, and very pretty
+things they make. These girls wear short blue skirts and little jackets,
+and have their hair in two long black braids that hang on either side of
+their faces. A Turkish towel, worn as a turban, on which to rest
+burdens, seemed to be the fashion in head gear with them. Loads are also
+carried by the Igorots on their backs, hung by straps over the forehead.
+
+It was an Igorot child in this school who wrote the following article
+upon Mrs. Dickinson's visit at Baguio:
+
+"It was yesterday morning very early when we started from here to the
+Post Office to meet a lady named Mrs. Dickinson. So early we all went
+down the brook to take our bath. After we had taken our bath we had
+breakfast. I was late so Ina scolded me, but I am glad she did it so
+that some day I won't do it again. Then we were all line up in two by
+two. When we got up to the Post Office she was not there so we waited
+for her an hour or two. After waiting for them they arrived suddenly.
+There were some ladies who accompanied Mrs. Dickinson. We were very much
+pleased to see her and she was much pleased too. The first time that she
+came in the Philippine Islands from America and she is soprice
+(surprised). We sang three songs and the National Anthem and waving our
+flags on the road. When we finished singing they clapped their hands. I
+gave her a bouquet of pink flowers. This we did it for our honour of
+Mrs. Dickinson not because she is more kind or lovely lady but because
+she is the wife of Mr. Dickinson. This Secretary of War is the leader of
+those who have authorities. He is responsible of them. After that we
+came right back. Miss B. came for school. We cleaned the schoolroom and
+the yard so that they will be so tidy when they come to see the school
+at three o'clock. We fixed the two bridges and we trimmed the road
+little bit for their automobiles to dance on. But they left them on the
+road yonder because they afraid might the bridges will do them
+damage. So they walked from there to here, and when they went back, they
+walked from here to there again, making them a journey."
+
+[Illustration: IGOROT OUTSIDE HIS HOUSE.]
+
+Doctor White, the missionary at Baguio, and his sister took me one day
+to the tombs of the Igorots. High on the hills looking toward the sea
+are great natural rocks with cracks in them, one of which looked like
+the Sphinx. Here we got off our ponies, tied them, and entered on foot a
+tangled path leading to a cavern. In the faint light that sifted through
+we saw a coffin, some baskets and some hats, and farther on, concealed
+and yet overlooking a fine view, were more wooden coffins. Some of these
+had fallen apart so that we could see the remains of bones and clothes.
+When an Igorot dies the body is usually tied in a sitting position on
+the top of a pole in the house and smoked for several days over a fire
+built underneath it. Meanwhile, the family kill and cook all the pigs
+and carabaos and ponies, if the man owned any, and then gather around
+and have what they call a _cañao_, or feast. Afterward the bones and
+skulls of the carabaos are hung about the house to show their neighbours
+what a rich man he was.
+
+Some of us went one day to Mirador, the typhoon station, on a high hill
+overlooking the sea. It is in charge of a Jesuit priest, who predicts
+the approach of typhoons and puts up storm signals, in this way
+preventing great loss of life. We were shown the instruments, which give
+warning of earthquakes as well as typhoons, and given sherry that was
+fifty years old, delicious cake, and flowers from his garden, and we saw
+his goats climbing up the steep crags. He told us with a chuckle that he
+had traded his dog to an Igorot for a cow.
+
+On Sunday we visited the dog market, but alas! we saw no dogs, as on
+account of cholera in the vicinity, it was forbidden to sell any. A few
+days before we had seen several men leading a number of lean and lanky
+ones along the road, and these were all for sale, to be killed and
+eaten. Long-haired canines are not popular, the short-haired kind are
+preferred.
+
+Vice-Governor Gilbert had a cañao, or feast, in front of his house one
+morning. A line of partly dressed dog-eaters arrived, bowing as they
+passed. They proved to be the chiefs or head men, who had put on what
+clothes they possessed for this occasion. They were brown, bare-legged
+men with gee strings, as they call the woven cloth hanging about their
+waists. Some had coats on, but nothing underneath, and only an old hat
+to complete the costume.
+
+The Benguet Igorots, or dog-eaters, are small but strong, and remind one
+of our American Indians. They are peaceful farmers now, but in days gone
+by they fought their neighbours on the north, and so lances and shields
+are still to be found among them. "The first American civil provincial
+government established in the Philippines was in Benguet, and
+governmental control has been continuously exercised there since
+November 23, 1900. They are gladly availing themselves of the
+opportunity now afforded for the education of their children, but insist
+that this education be practical."
+
+In order to show the progress that had been made in the Philippines, a
+party of Igorots were brought to the St. Louis Exposition. Part of the
+exhibit was a model schoolroom. Visitors were amazed at the bright,
+eager little children, and at their keen interest in their lessons. But
+they were even more amazed one day to see these same model pupils when a
+dog suddenly barked outside. For the school simply went to pieces, the
+children making for the nearest door. The last seen of them, they were
+in full cry after the unfortunate dog.
+
+Although we found the dog-eaters interesting, there are other tribes of
+far greater interest, such as the Negritos, the warlike Ilongots and
+the Tingians, as well as the people of the Bashee rocks of the north,
+who are hardly ever seen.
+
+The Negritos are diminutive and uncivilized black people who live to-day
+in a few mountain areas. They are the aborigines of the islands in this
+part of the world, and are as primitive as the Australian blacks, having
+no social or political organization but that of the family. They live in
+hollow trees or under little lean-tos of grass and brush, and subsist
+principally by hunting and fishing, at which they are very expert. Their
+weapons are poisoned arrows and the blow gun. The poison, which is made
+either from the leaf of a tree or from decomposed meat, is placed in the
+arrow-head of hollow bone. On striking, it injects the poison into the
+flesh as a hypodermic needle would do, quickly resulting in death.
+
+The only agricultural implement of the Negritos is a pointed stick
+hardened in the fire. To prepare the ground for cultivation, on the
+space they wish to clear they girdle the trees, which will soon die.
+They are then set on fire and the ashes distributed over the soil.
+Later, holes are made with the pointed sticks, and _camotes_, sugar-cane
+and tobacco are planted.
+
+These people are very timid, and if their suspicions are aroused in the
+slightest manner, they immediately disappear into the forest. Very
+little success has attended any effort to civilize them. Their religion
+is nature worship with many local divinities and good and bad spirits of
+all sorts.
+
+They ornament their bodies with scar patterns, made by cutting the skin
+with sharp pieces of bamboo and then rubbing dirt into the wounds. In
+this respect they are like no other tribes in the Islands but resemble
+the most primitive of the native Africans, who also make scar patterns.
+The men often shave the crowns of their heads in order, they say, "to
+let the heat out." The Negritos, like the Bagobos of the south,
+sometimes point their front teeth, but not by filing them as one might
+suppose. They are chopped off with a bolo.
+
+Worcester says the Negritos "believe that each family must take at least
+one head per year or suffer misfortune in the form of sickness, wounds,
+starvation or death." Heads are buried in the ground under the "houses"
+of the men who take them.
+
+In regard to the Tingians of northern Luzon I also quote from Worcester,
+who has given us the most reliable account of them:
+
+"The women of this tribe ornament their arms with a series of bracelets
+and armlets, which often extend from wrist to shoulder. They constrict
+the middle of the forearm during early girlhood and continue to wear
+tight armlets on the constricted portion throughout life, so that their
+forearms become somewhat hourglass-shaped, this being considered a mark
+of great beauty in spite of the unsightly swelling of the wrists which
+results....
+
+"Their cooking utensils are taken to the river and scrubbed with sand
+after every meal. If a wife offers her husband dirty or soggy rice to
+eat, the offense is said to afford ground for divorce....
+
+"When a man dies, whether his death be natural or due to violence, the
+other members of his family repair by night to some village of their
+enemies, cut pieces from their turbans, and throw them down on the
+ground. This is interpreted as an intimation that they will return and
+take heads sometime within six months, and they believe that the dead
+man knows no peace until this is done."
+
+The Ilongots, who live in the province of Nueva Viscaya, are especially
+wild and great head-hunters. They are striking figures in their deerskin
+rain-coats. No young man can take to himself a bride until he has
+brought back a head to prove his prowess. The favourite time for
+these gruesome excursions of the tribe is when the blossoms of the fire
+tree show their red beacons on the mountain sides. As an especial mark
+of beauty and valour, because a good deal of pain has to be endured in
+the process, the men cut off the upper front teeth on a line with the
+gums.
+
+[Illustration: ILONGOT IN RAIN-COAT AND HAT OF DEERSKIN.]
+
+Woe betide the man who rides a white horse into the Ilongot country, for
+above all things white hair is desired, and unless he stands guard over
+it, he will find its mane missing and its tail cropped to the skin.
+
+Most of the mountain people still retain their ancient myths and
+traditions. Even among these Ilongots there are tales of the long ago
+when they came across a "great water" to their present abode. This, of
+course, merely explains the general migration of the Malay tribes. By
+the way, this Malay migration is still in progress, and is exemplified
+by the Samal boatmen who come from Borneo and further south in Malaysia
+to the southern Philippines.
+
+All the wild people have customs of their own, which distinguish them,
+especially the manner in which they cut their hair and wear their loin
+cloths. They have slightly different methods of fighting, some fighting
+singly with a kind of sword, others in pairs with spears and arrows,
+while the sword is used only to decapitate the fallen enemy. Others
+display considerable ability in organization and operate large bands,
+under especially designated chiefs. All are very fond of dancing and
+have different dances to represent war, love and the chase.
+
+They have their own explanations for everything, and their stories about
+the creation of the various birds and animals are quite interesting and
+not unlike those found among some tribes of aborigines in North America.
+One of them relates that one day the Creator was making the different
+birds. Before him lay bodies, wings, necks, heads and feet. He would
+begin with the body and build it up with appropriate parts, so that it
+could apply itself to the purpose for which it was intended. In every
+case, the Creator was particular not to put on the wings before the bird
+was complete, for fear that it would take flight in an imperfect
+condition. One day while he was engaged in making an especially fine
+specimen of the feathered world, the evil spirit approached and engaged
+the Good Spirit in conversation. Ordinarily he would have attacked the
+Evil One and quickly put him to flight, but as the bird was nearly
+finished and already imbued with the spark of life he wished to complete
+him. But the Creator's anger that the Evil One should overlook his work,
+became so great that, without thinking, he put on the wings before the
+legs had been fitted. Instantly the bird flew off. In haste the Creator
+grabbed the first pair of legs he could lay his hands on and threw them
+at it. They attached themselves exactly where they struck the bird, near
+the tail. This is the reason, so the story goes, that the loon's legs
+are so far back that he cannot walk in an upright position on land. His
+peculiarly sad cry is a lament because he must stay in the water
+practically all the time and cannot enjoy himself on land as other good
+birds do.
+
+[Illustration: ILONGOTS RETURNING FROM THE CHASE.]
+
+Many of the people who live along the foot of the mountain ranges,
+although Christianized sufficiently to contribute to the Roman Catholic
+churches, still retain many of their aboriginal customs, especially
+those pertaining to marriage, birth and death.
+
+Beyond the shores of Luzon, stretching northward for nearly two hundred
+miles, is an interesting archipelago of diminutive islands known as the
+Bashee Rocks, the Batan and the Babuyan Islands.[19] The natives still
+retain many of the characteristics which were observed by Dampier in his
+visit to these islands in the seventeenth century.
+
+The inhabitants of the Batan group are like those living on the Japanese
+island of Botel Tobago, which is only sixty miles north of our most
+northern possession.[20] No missionaries or other persons had been
+allowed by the natives to land on their shores until a few Japanese
+police arrived in 1909. They are mentioned in passing because they are a
+present-day example of what the people in the northern islands of the
+Philippine group were before the coming of the white men and the friars.
+Their dwellings are very peculiar. Each family has a stone-paved court
+surrounded by a low wall of stone. Within this enclosure they have three
+houses: one with its sides sunk down into the ground, in order to give
+protection from high winds; one with ordinary walls for use during
+normal weather; and a third built on poles about ten feet above the
+ground for use during the hot season. From these elevated houses a
+constant watch is maintained for schools of fish. The people are expert
+fishermen and make excellent nets, and they have beautiful boats with
+high bows and sterns.
+
+In Dampier's day the people were friendly and hospitable, as they are at
+the present time. They valued iron more than gold, and gladly exchanged
+it for iron. The ancient diggings are still to be seen, but the "pay
+dirt" is of such a low grade that it is not worth while to work it. The
+precious metal is washed out by the natives in cocoanut shells, which
+take the place of our prospectors' "gold pan." Many gold ornaments of
+attractive design are still to be found in these islands. Some of those
+taken from graves remind one strongly of Chaldean work.
+
+The graves of the ancient inhabitants were placed high upon the
+mountains, some near the smoking craters of the volcanoes, others on the
+crests of the non-volcanic hills. It is supposed that the graves near
+the smoking craters were those of persons who had a bad reputation in
+the community, while those on the tops of the ridges contained the
+bodies of the good, and that by this method of burial the ideas of
+heaven and hell were carried out in a practical manner. The bodies were
+placed in _ollas_, or earthenware jars, some of which had a high glaze
+and were profusely ornamented. The corpse was inserted into the jar in a
+sitting position, and the orifice was sealed by placing an inverted olla
+over the mouth of the first. These jars were then placed on end and a
+small pyramid of stones built around them, on the top of which a little
+tree was planted. A number of these graves ranged around the edge of a
+smoking sulphur crater are an uncanny sight, which the natives take good
+care to avoid.
+
+The women of the Batan Islands, when walking or working out of doors,
+wear a distinctive headdress, consisting of a long grass hood, which
+stretches from the forehead to below the hips. It protects the head and
+back from the sun, wind and rain, so that it is worn at all times and in
+all seasons. It is one of the most original and useful of all primitive
+garments.
+
+During the dry season but little rain falls in these islands, and as
+there are few streams or springs, every means is employed to catch
+the least drop. Even the trees in the yards have pieces of rattan
+twisted around their trunks and larger branches, to make the water drop
+off into earthen jars.
+
+[Illustration: WOMAN OF THE BATAN ISLANDS WITH GRASS HOOD.]
+
+During the autumn migration of hawks and eagles from the north, men are
+stationed on the thatched roofs of the high dwellings to seize the birds
+by the feet as soon as they alight. Great numbers are caught in this
+manner every year and form quite an element of the food supply.
+
+Many of the islands are excellent places for the production of cattle.
+Itbayat Island, unique because its shores are higher than the interior,
+has many thousand head of excellent cattle. The coast is so precipitous
+that when they are exported they have to be lowered to the water's edge
+by means of a block and tackle, as at Tangier. They then have to swim
+out to the waiting ship, where they are hoisted by their horns to the
+deck.
+
+Another of the cattle islands is called Dalupiri. This beautiful spot
+was given in its entirety to Aldecoa and Company of Manila by the
+Spanish government. In fact, when the United States first took
+possession of the Philippines, this company claimed sovereignty over the
+island, but this, of course, was not recognized by the United States
+Government. The cattle that are pastured here are a cross between the
+black Spanish bulls of fighting lineage and the humped cattle of India.
+Great care is taken that the stock be well kept up, and for this purpose
+there is a constant weeding out of undesirables. The method in which
+this is done is both interesting and very exciting. The cattle roam at
+will and are very wild and hard to approach; as a result they have to be
+hunted with great care. About twenty men are employed in their capture,
+all of whom are mounted on hardy little horses. Four of them are
+lassoers and the rest huntsmen. The lassos are nooses attached to the
+ends of bamboo poles about twelve feet long. The rope from the noose, to
+the length of about twenty-five feet, is coiled around the bamboo pole
+and tied to it four feet from the lower end. When the lasso is thrown
+over an animal's head the pole is dropped by the rider, the rope unwinds
+and drags the pole along the ground, until it catches on a rock or a
+bush and stops the mad career of the animal.
+
+"We started out early one morning," Major Mitchell writes me, "to cut
+several young bulls out of a herd of about five hundred cattle. Led by
+the manager of the island, we galloped over the rough surface of the
+coral-bound hilltops and through deep, waving grass until one of the
+huntsmen signaled that the herd was in sight. A careful inspection was
+made of the herd with a telescope, and the animals for capture were
+selected and carefully pointed out to the lassoers, who immediately took
+up their posts in concealment beside a little plain. The huntsmen then
+proceeded under cover to points around the herd which would enable them
+to drive the cattle on to the little plain where the lassoers could get
+in their work. After a wait of about a half hour, the horn of the chief
+huntsman pealed forth and was answered by the yells of his companions;
+the herd, unable to go in another direction, dashed for the little
+plain, followed by its pursuers. Crouching behind some low bushes the
+lassoers waited until the cattle, now in full stampede, had come within
+fifty yards, when in a twinkling they dashed into the midst of the
+galloping herd.
+
+"After a terrific race one lasso held true on a fine young bull, while
+the rest scampered off into the ravines and water courses. The dragging
+bamboo pole soon brought him to a stop, and after several charges at his
+captors, two more lassos were placed on him, and he was securely
+fastened and dragged to a tree, against which his head was tied. A
+little saw was produced from somewhere, and his gallant horns were cut
+off short. An old, sedate carabao, who seemed to be perfectly at home,
+made his appearance, the young bull was tied to the carabao's harness
+and towed off toward the corral. At first he tried frantically to gore
+the carabao, but as his horns had been removed no harm resulted. The
+carabao did not mind it in the least but continued tranquilly on his
+way. Three more bulls were captured on that day; each furnished
+exceedingly fast and interesting sport. I have seen mounted work of a
+great many kinds, such as pig sticking, stag hunting, and hunting of
+many kinds of game, including our own fox hunting and polo, but never
+have I seen any mounted work which required more dash, nerve, good
+judgment and endurance than that displayed by these herdsmen of the
+northern islands."
+
+Although these islands are bounded on the north by the Balintan Channel,
+through which some of the shipping passes from America to the southern
+part of China, they are seldom visited. This is because, as I have said
+before, there are no ports, not even good anchorages. During the typhoon
+season they are exposed to the full force of these great hurricanes,
+while the waters are infested with hidden rocks and coral ledges. The
+U. S. cruiser _Charleston_ ran aground on a coral reef east of the
+island of Camaguin in 1900 and sank immediately. During the
+Russo-Japanese war the fleet of the Russian Admiral Rojesvenski passed
+on either side of Batan Island. The Japanese had observers on the summit
+of Mt. Iraya on this island, who are supposed to have signaled by
+heliograph to Mt. Morrison in Formosa of the coming of the fleet. The
+great armada could be seen from this mountain for more than one hundred
+miles.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER VII
+
+AMONG THE HEAD-HUNTERS
+
+
+When the Americans first came to the Philippines, most of the mountain
+country could be reached only on foot over dangerous trails. Very large
+tracts were unexplored, and the head-hunting tribes, who are found
+nowhere but in this northern part of Luzon, pillaged the neighbouring
+towns. A state of order has now been established, except in parts of
+Kalinga and Apayao.
+
+The Mountain Province, the home of the head-hunters, includes the
+sub-provinces of Benguet, Lepanto, Amburayan, Bontoc, Ifugao, Kalinga
+and Apayao. The officers of the provinces are a governor, a
+secretary-treasurer, a supervisor in charge of the road and trail work
+and the construction of public buildings, and seven lieutenant
+governors. All these officers are appointed by the governor general.
+They live on horseback, undergo great hardships and also take great
+risks.
+
+The manners and customs of these head-hunting tribes differ somewhat.
+Each one, for instance, has a different mode of treating the captured
+head when it is brought in, but all celebrate a successful hunt with a
+cañao, or festival. The Ifugaos place the head upon a stake and hold
+weird ceremonial dances around it, followed by speech making and the
+drinking of _bubud_, as they call their wine; afterward the skull of the
+victim is utilized as a household ornament. Venison and chicken are
+served at such feasts and the large fruit-eating bats, which are
+considered delicacies. If one of the tribe has been so unfortunate as to
+have his head taken, they berate the spirit at the funeral, "asking him
+why he had been careless enough to get himself killed."
+
+The most picturesque of the head-hunting tribes that my husband saw were
+the Kalingas, who are different from all other natives of Luzon. It is
+said that the Spaniards took fifteen hundred Moros into this part of the
+country more than a hundred years ago, so they may have founded this
+tribe. At all events, the Kalingas are superbly developed, tall and
+slight, some of the men having handsome and almost classical features.
+
+Neither the men nor the women cut the hair, which, in the case of the
+men, is banged in front and tied up with rags behind, some wearing nets
+to keep it out of their eyes. Although the women have abundant hair they
+use "switches," into which they stick beautiful feathers. The men also
+decorate themselves in the same way. On the back of the head they often
+wear little caps woven of beautifully stained rattan and covered with
+agate beads, and these are used as pockets in which small articles are
+carried. Great holes are pierced in the lobes of their ears, into which
+are thrust wooden ear plugs, with tufts of red and yellow worsted.
+Almost every Kalinga woman wears a pair of heavy brass ear ornaments and
+sometimes a solid piece of mother-of-pearl cut like a figure eight.
+
+The Kalingas are particularly warlike, their very name meaning "enemy"
+or "stranger," and endeavours to bring them under government control
+were begun only a few years ago. There are still some _rancherias_ which
+the lieutenant governor has not yet visited, as it seemed best to wait
+and bring the people to terms by peaceful means.
+
+While we were enjoying ourselves at Baguio, the Secretary of War,
+Governor Forbes, Secretary Worcester, General Edwards, and my husband
+started north into the mountains to see some of the strange tribes that
+were gathering from far and wide to meet the great _Apo_, or chief, as
+they called Secretary Dickinson. I give the account of the trip in my
+husband's own words:
+
+On Saturday night, July 31st, after the Assembly baile, we motored to
+the docks and went aboard the transport _Crook_ for the trip northward.
+We were made very comfortable on this big transport, with deck cabins,
+but we all slept on the open deck by preference and had a pleasant run
+till in the morning we were entering Subig Bay, a splendid vast harbour
+between great mountains, the narrow entrance guarded by Isola Grande.
+Here we landed and visited the batteries, and although it was a small
+island it was a stewing hot walk about it--especially as the Secretary
+sets a great pace--till a torrential shower came up and drove us to the
+commanding officer's house, where we had a bite of breakfast--and all
+the breakfasts at the posts which we have visited have been so good!
+
+General Duvall had come up from Manila on his yacht _Aguila_, and on
+board of her we crossed the bay to Olongapo, where there is the present
+naval station. The great hulk of the famous floating dock _Dewey_ was
+looming up there, just floated again after her mysterious sinking
+which, even now, they do not seem to be able to explain.
+
+The guard was out with the band, and the honours were paid and the
+marines paraded, but soon another severe tropical storm broke, and drove
+some of us back to the ship while the others went on to another
+breakfast at the Officers' Club. This storm suggested a typhoon, but
+there had been no warning from the Jesuit observatory at Manila, and so
+we rejoined the _Crook_ out by Isola Grande and went to sea without
+fear.
+
+This is the rainy and typhoon season but the warnings of severe storms
+are so carefully given that they have lost their terrors now-a-days; and
+this year, so far, there hasn't been a disturbance, much to our comfort,
+as it has permitted the carrying out of all our plans. It is a most
+unusual thing for such good weather to continue. The hot season is over,
+and this is called the intermediate, but it is the time of rains on this
+coast, the seasons differing slightly on the different coasts and in the
+different islands. So all that night we cruised up the coast through
+showers of rain and lightning, passing by Bolinao Light, which we had
+first sighted as we approached the Philippines.
+
+Before daylight we stopped off Tagudin, and through the darkness could
+be seen the dim shadow of land and mountains, and a light burning on the
+beach as a beacon. With dawn we saw a wonderful tropical shore develop
+before us, of low land fringed with palm, surrounded by beautiful
+mountain ranges, a tiny village on the beach, and a crowd of people
+gathered together. Soon a surf-boat put out and brought aboard the
+governors of the nearby provinces--Early and Gallman, brave, ready men,
+who have taken these wild people in hand and become demi-gods among
+them--and after a bite of breakfast we were all taken ashore through the
+surf, very handily, and the Secretary was welcomed by a native band and
+the chief men of the neighbourhood and crowds of half naked natives.
+
+The Ilocanos of the northwest coast of Luzon are a fine, kindly race,
+but there had also come down from the interior a lot of small brown men
+to pack in our baggage, Bontoc Igorots, head-hunters and dog-eaters, of
+whom we were to see more in their own country. These little fellows at
+first seemed like dwarfs; but soon after, as we saw them better, they
+proved small but well formed and well nourished, strong, gentle little
+people. They ran forward and seized our packages and disappeared down
+the trail in a wild, willing manner. Off they trotted while we were
+packed into carromatos, dragged by weedy, diminutive native horses,
+which are wonderfully powerful for their size. We went, after greeting
+the people, off down the trail, through the outskirts of Tagudin (we
+didn't go into the town, which was somewhat to one side, as there had
+been some cholera there), with its nipa houses of plaited grass, perched
+up above the ground, many decorated in honour of the occasion. We
+rattled along an excellent road (for we have certainly done wonders in
+road-building here), past paddy fields, where the slow carabao grazed
+with little children perched on their backs, past troops of natives,
+with their loads, standing alongside.
+
+Governor General Forbes had made the most wonderful preparations for the
+trip. It was the first time that any American officials (only Insular
+officials previously) had gone in to these wild people, and of course
+the Secretary is the highest in rank that can visit the Islands since he
+is the one through whom the President governs the Philippines and the
+President can never come. The trip was unique and all the arrangements
+were extraordinary. For a new trail had been planned into the mountains
+but was not due to be done for eight months, and yet thousands of these
+wild men had been called in and helped to finish the road so much the
+more quickly (for we were the first party to pass over it, and some of
+the bridges had only been finished the night before we passed), eagerly
+and willingly, when they were told that the great Apo was coming in to
+visit them. Forbes had sent to Hongkong for some rick'shaws and had had
+men trained to pull and push them, but these had not stood the test well
+and we didn't have the need or the chance to use them; he also had had
+palanquin chairs brought over from China and men taught in a way to
+carry them, and these we did use on some of the steep descents. But we
+rode horses, excellent ones, from Forbes's own stable, almost all the
+way.
+
+Every three kilometers, companies of Igorots and Ifugaos were stationed
+to act as _cargadores_ and rush along the baggage by relays, and this
+they did with shouts and cheers as quickly as we traveled. Tiffin and
+breakfasts had been prepared all along the way. Every eventuality had
+been anticipated, and it was really too well done, for it made our
+traveling seem so easy that we had to think hard to realize into what
+out-of-the-way places we were going. A few days before it would have
+been necessary to work our way over the perpendicular old trails, with
+difficulty finding bearers for our packs, and we would have been
+compelled to carry our own food, a severe trip and a hard undertaking.
+We went in absolutely unarmed and without escort, and yet nearly every
+native that we saw, after we reached the hills, carried his spear and
+head ax; but there wasn't a suggestion of danger. People were brought
+together on this occasion from different tribes who two years ago would
+have killed each other at sight, and yet to-day were dancing with each
+other.
+
+We were accompanied by the governors of the sub-provinces as we passed
+through them, and an unarmed orderly and Sergeant Doyle, who had charge
+of Governor Forbes's horses, and generally by a shouting horde of
+natives. The Secretary proved a wonder; well mounted, as he was, he led
+on at a great pace, till it seemed a sort of endurance test. I was more
+than pleased to find that I stood it as I did, for we traveled four days
+out of the five for forty miles a day, and rode most of it a-horseback.
+I came out finally in much better form than when I went in.
+
+And so, from the beach where we landed, the carromatos carried us across
+the low coast plain, over new bridges on which the inscriptions stated
+that they had been finished for the passage of the Secretary and his
+party, and under triumphal arches made of bamboo which welcomed him; all
+the natives whom we passed saluted, and many wished to shake hands or
+only touch the hand as we passed, till we came into the foothills, and
+over them into a little village of nipa huts among the bamboo and
+tropical trees, where we found our horses waiting. Here we mounted and
+started off at a good pace over the well built road that trailed around
+cliff and crag as we worked into the mountains, a procession, a
+cavalcade, winding in and out. We traveled along the valley of a river,
+that later became a gorge with steep cliffs and precipitous sides; all
+the natives were out to greet the Secretary; and finally we came to a
+tiny village where we had a drink of refreshing cocoanut water, all the
+people standing about or hanging out of the windows of the simple
+houses, which looked very clean and neat. We trailed on along the narrow
+road, cut into the rock in many places, really a remarkable road, and up
+the gorge with the rushing river below us. The mountains rose high and
+opened up in lovely velvety greens, and shaded away into the blues of
+distance. We stopped at a little native rest house, above a ford in the
+river, where we found a luncheon prepared for us, but it was a hurried
+luncheon, and on we went climbing a winding trail that zigzagged up the
+steep mountainside, through tropical tangle of bamboo and fern and great
+overhanging trees with trailing parasites--the ghost tree, the hard
+woods, and some with a beautiful mauve flower at the top that even Mr.
+Worcester couldn't tell me the name of (he said he had been so busy
+inventing names for the birds that he hadn't had time yet to find names
+for trees). And below the views opened up wider and more splendid, and
+range on range of mountains rose above each other, while the precipices
+grew deeper and more terrifying.
+
+And suddenly, as we came to a turn in the trail, there appeared above us
+a most picturesque sight against the skyline, some Ifugao warriors,
+lithe, beautifully formed men, whose small size was lost in their
+symmetry, with spears in their hands, turbans of blue wrapped about
+their heads, and loin cloths of blue with touches of red and yellow in
+their streaming ends that hung like an apron before and like a tail
+behind; their handsome brown bodies like mahogany. They had belts made
+of round shells from which hung their bolos. These were the head men of
+a company of Ifugaos who had come this far to greet the party and they
+stood so gracefully on the point above us; and around the turn we found
+the rest of the band, stunning looking fellows, standing at attention in
+line behind their lances, which were stuck in a row in the ground. Here
+we had another tiffin, while these warriors seized and scampered off
+with our luggage.
+
+From this time on, as we traveled, we found reliefs of these picturesque
+people, waiting their turn at carrying, and then all would join in the
+procession, and shouting a cheer like American collegians, their war
+cry, they would rush on and frighten us to death with the risk of going
+over the steep places. Away off in the distance, reëchoing through the
+valleys, we could hear the cheers and cries, very musical, of others of
+our party as they traveled along. Soon we began to be greeted by the
+tom-toms of natives who had come out to honour the Secretary, and by
+their singing as we approached, and then they would dance round in a
+strange way as we passed on.
+
+The Ifugaos had come to meet the Secretary from several days' journey
+away, mostly through Bontoc Igorot country, all armed, and yet there
+hadn't been a sign of trouble. And these Ifugaos, who two years ago were
+wild head-hunters, have been brought into wonderful control by their
+governor, Gallman. There are some one hundred and twenty thousand of
+these picturesque people, among whom head-hunting is now nearly stamped
+out; though there are sporadic cases doubtless. These little savages,
+too, appear most gentle and tractable, most willing and laughing, in the
+rough tumbling of the trail; and they have proved very clever, for they
+were the builders of the roads over which we traveled (we were told that
+they could drill rock better than Americans, on a few months' practice,
+and that they have sat for a few days and watched Japanese bricklayers
+set brick, and then done it as well as the Japanese). But indeed their
+_sementeras_--their paddy fields--their terracing, which they have
+practised for hundreds of years, is the most wonderful in the world, and
+there is nothing even in Japan to compare with their work of this kind.
+Their great game of head-hunting has taught them cleverness, and they
+are full of snap and go.
+
+The Ifugao is a great talker and has all the gestures of an orator. When
+he begins a speech he first gives a long call to attract attention, then
+climbs a stand fifteen feet high by means of a ladder. He generally
+begins his remarks by stating that he is a very rich man, and goes on
+to praise himself and his tribe, and at the end of his harangue he often
+himself leads off in the applause by loudly clapping his hands. He has
+become a fine rifleman and is a fearless fighter. In clout, coat and
+cap, and a belt of ammunition, with legs bare, he travels incredible
+distances and makes a good constabulary soldier. The Governor General is
+anxious to form them into a militia, but they lose their grip, we were
+told, when they are taken down from the hills to the plain.
+
+[Illustration: CONSTABULARY SOLDIERS.]
+
+And so we went on up to over four thousand feet, to where the pass broke
+through the mountain, and there before us was a vast valley with a
+splendid plain beyond, and in the middle of it, on a prominence, we
+could see Cervantes, where we were to stop our first night. It seemed so
+near and yet proved many miles away as we traced our way down the steep
+coasts of the valley and the view of the plain below widened and the
+ranges of mountains beyond rose into finer heights. We twisted and
+trailed zigzag down the pine-clad slopes, for the change of vegetation
+(due to the mountain range, which divided a different climate on either
+side of it) in passing over the ridge had been remarkable, and though we
+had seen rare orchids and begonias as we mounted, we descended from the
+same height through pine and pasture.
+
+When finally we reached the plateau and had crossed a river bed we were
+met by the people of the village of Cervantes--many girls in gay dress
+riding astride on their midget ponies, and men and boys on their rugged
+little mounts. These escorted the party under the triumphal arches into
+the grass streets of the pretty village, where the simple public
+buildings were decorated, and the local band played, till we finally
+were taken to the houses where we were to spend the night, the Secretary
+and the Governor and Clark and myself going to the Lieutenant
+Governor's. He was married to a Filipina wife. And here I must say that
+we met several of these Filipina wives of white men, and they had most
+perfect manners and self possession and real grace (and this one was a
+good cook). The house was a best class native house and more comfortable
+than we had anticipated, though there were sounds and smells that rather
+disturbed us. There was a reception and baile at the municipal building
+in the evening, where we had to go and dance a rigodon, each partnered
+off with some dainty little Filipina lady. And then we did hurry home to
+rest, for we had been up since half after four that morning and were to
+start next morning a little after five.
+
+The next day's trail was very fine, for we started off over a river
+which we crossed on a flying bridge, a swinging car on a cable, while
+the horses were forded; and then we had splendid but slow climbing up
+the gorge of one river after another, coasting the mountainside, where
+we could see the mark of the trail many miles ahead above us and part of
+our procession trailing along in single file or rushing along with
+distant shout, as the little willing native cargadores carried their
+loads up and up. Above us rose Mount Data, with its mysterious waterfall
+that seems to come right out of its peak, and clouds circled about us,
+and below the valleys streaked away into the distance and the ranges
+rose higher and higher, and the play of light and shadow was beautiful
+on the greens and grays and browns and blues of the distances. We began
+to see rancherias, the native villages, perched up on the hills, the
+thatched roofs like haystacks, with blue smoke at times coming through;
+and paddy fields began to climb the upper valleys in their terraces,
+with the pale green rice, and fringes of the banana palm of which the
+hemp is made. In places the red croton was planted on the terraces for
+luck, and in the ravines which we crossed there were cascading falls
+and pools.
+
+We rose higher and higher over another range, and at the tip-top of the
+trail another group of Igorots were dancing and playing their tom-toms
+as we passed, and rushed alongside to touch fingers. Soon we passed
+through a village built in a stony gorge where a river ran down. The
+houses consisted of conical thatched roofs supported on four wooden
+piers with ladders leading up into the roofs where the people lived. The
+foundations were terraced in stone and the paths were stone-terrace, and
+it all looked very neat and clean. On our way back we stopped for tiffin
+at this same village and had the women come and show us how they weave,
+for it was a place famed for its weaving. This time our tiffin was
+farther on, at a rest-house with a splendid view, and it had been laid
+out so prettily with temporary flower beds and bamboo arches. The
+Belgian priest from a town nearby had come to join us at luncheon, and
+although he spoke no English I had a pleasant time with him in French,
+for he proved to be a sort of relative of our cousins the de Buisserets;
+his name was Padre Sepulchre, one of a band of Belgians belonging to no
+order but educated highly for missionary priesthood, who have been
+sent out, since our occupation, by the Pope, and many of whom are rich
+and gentlemen born. This one had already in two years spent some twenty
+thousand dollars gold of his own money in his town. Another such
+missionary we met at Bontoc, and several at other places, and all are
+said to do good work.
+
+[Illustration: RICE TERRACES.]
+
+We started off after tiffin on the long trail that wound down the gorge
+of El Chico de Cagayan River, on our way to Bontoc. Villages became more
+numerous and were very picturesque, on the spurs of mountain above the
+river, or embowered in coffee trees, where the mountain coasts were
+patched with pineapple plantations. And the paddy fields grew in terrace
+after terrace, most splendid engineering by these primitive people,
+rising above each other up into the clouds, fitting into the contours of
+the mountainsides, the terrace walls overgrown with green, and the pale
+green paddy within, and little cascades carrying the water down from
+terrace to terrace, most lovely, like some great hanging gardens; little
+brown people were stooping at work in them, all naked, but with their
+clothes covered by leaves and balanced on their heads, to be kept dry;
+for there were showers and cloud effects that added to the beauty of
+the panorama as we passed. The terraces add beauty and interest to the
+eye by their succession of levels, and as we traveled into the country
+they became more frequent and complete. Curiously enough, the Bontoc
+Igorots have forest laws and a forest service of their own. The
+mountainsides of their rough country are sparsely timbered with pine,
+which has grown very scarce near some of the larger settlements. Forests
+in the vicinity of such settlements are divided up into small private
+holdings claimed by individuals, whose right thereto is recognized by
+the other members of the tribe. In many places it is forbidden to cut
+trees until they have reached a large size, although the lower branches
+are constantly trimmed off and used for firewood. Forest fires are kept
+down to facilitate reforestation, and young trees are planted. Such
+foresight on the part of a primitive people is certainly unusual.
+
+So we trailed all day, till toward half after five we turned a point and
+came to Bontoc, after a procession of natives had come streaming out
+some miles up the gorge to meet the party. Bontoc is the capital of the
+Mountain Province and was the goal of our journey.
+
+The native town is very dirty and is acknowledged to be one of the worst
+of the native villages; in the more savage places the towns are said
+to be cleaner. We walked through it, where the terraced stone walks pass
+by stone pits where the pigs wallow, and by thatched houses which have
+no exit for the smoke and so are filthy and in dreadful condition. We
+saw the communal shacks in which the unmarried and widowed members live
+with their peculiar rights, and the sties where the old men resort to
+talk, and we stood outside the wretched place where the skulls are kept,
+and some heads, all black and smoked, were brought out in a basket from
+the secret recesses for us to see.
+
+[Illustration: IFUGAO COUPLE.]
+
+Some of these Bontoc Igorots are skilful smiths, and they make excellent
+earthen pots and clay pipes. They have interesting athletic sports of
+their own and take to those of the Americans. They are especially fond
+of beads, which are wound in their hair or hung about the neck, and
+greatly value large white stones, caring little for agates, so highly
+prized by the Kalingas.
+
+Into Bontoc for this great occasion had been brought warriors and women
+from the Kalingas and Ifugaos, with Igorots from about, some from a
+distance of several days' travel; and for the first time these warring
+tribes, who only two years before were taking each other's heads, came
+peacefully together, and watched each other with as much interest as
+they watched us.
+
+The adventures of the American lieutenant governors read like romances,
+and here they were before us with their following: the Kalingas more
+dangerous and warlike than the Ifugaos, and the Ifugaos more picturesque
+and interesting than the Igorots, and all together making a
+never-to-be-forgotten scene.
+
+There were, too, several small companies of native constabulary, for
+these hill men make splendid soldiers and take great pride in their arms
+and uniform, and have proved loyal to the death. All the different
+tribes and the constabulary had turned out to receive the Secretary, and
+it was a vociferous and noisy yelling crowd that streamed about in
+irregular procession. We were, some of us, taken to a government house
+that was comfortable, and took our meals at a club which the officials
+have built and which is quite pathetically complete, and that evening we
+did little before turning in--the first evening since we had landed in
+the Islands when we were able to turn in at a reasonable hour with the
+prospect of sleeping as late as we pleased next day.
+
+Next day was a day of festivities, a cañao, for from morning till night
+there was dancing by these fantastic peoples, whom so few white men
+have ever seen. We were waked early enough, alas! by the _ganzas_--the
+tom-toms--and there were parades of the different tribes through the
+town. A small grandstand had been erected in the plaza, and there we
+stood with the Secretary and the few white teachers and the missionaries
+from about, while the procession was reviewed.
+
+The constabulary came first, dressed only in loin cloths of different
+colours below the waist, but with the regulation khaki uniform blouse
+and cap above. They are officered by Americans and a few natives, and
+are most military, notwithstanding the strange appearance of their bare
+legs. Some companies were very well drilled, and they gave exhibitions
+of different manuals as well as any regular white soldiers might have
+done.
+
+The wild Kalingas came past next, most picturesque, with their feather
+headdresses of red and yellow, and spears and head axes, and their
+brightly coloured loin cloths, and the women in scant but gay garments,
+and not at all ashamed in their nakedness. And these gave their
+characteristic dances, with outstretched arms, hopping and prancing
+about in a circle, all the time looking down into the center of the
+circle about which they dance (where the head of the decapitated is
+supposed to be). There were innumerable tom-toms, which they play with
+variations, so as to make much rhythm and movement, and the women joined
+in the dancing, more moderately, some with big cigars in their mouths
+and looking extremely indifferent. Then, when they danced in a circle,
+some would prance into the center with shield and ax and pretend attacks
+upon each other, and leap about and grow excited; and this sort of thing
+they kept up all day (and part of the night, too) off and on.[21]
+
+[Illustration: IFUGAO HEAD DANCE.]
+
+The Ifugaos followed and passed by, and gave their dances, which are the
+same with a difference, but each was ended with a mighty shout, after
+which one of the head men would step forward and deliver a rattling
+speech, and they greeted the Secretary variously but cordially--for they
+like our American rule, indeed, they have never had any other, for the
+Spaniards never attempted to come in and control them.
+
+Then the Bontoc Igorots followed and gave exhibitions with noisy
+demonstrations, and two _presidentes_, or chiefs, who six months before
+were trying to kill each other, danced and pranced together, while the
+tom-toms beat and others hopped and circled round. Most of the men were
+tattooed, each tribe in its own peculiar manner, certain marks
+indicating that their bearer had killed his man and taken a head--some
+bore marks of many heads; one man dancing was known to have taken
+seventeen. Many of the women, too, were tattooed with a feather-like
+pattern.
+
+And so the dances went on. In some the participants postured fighting
+and then represented wounded men; in others all were head men together;
+some were rapid in motion, some slow, but all had real grace, that grace
+of the wild man; and all were finely formed and well-nourished and
+healthy looking. When the dancing was over, the groups of savages in
+their fantastic dress squatting around the plaza behind their spears
+stuck in the ground, with bolo and head-ax and tom-tom, and the women
+standing about, made a wonderful scene.
+
+After the dances and speeches the head men came up to the Secretary and
+handed him weapons as gifts, sometimes their own, with which they had
+often fought. Mr. Dickinson, of course, received the chiefs and the head
+men and women afterward, and presented them with shells and blankets and
+plumes in return. The bartering among them was rather amusing, as they
+tried to exchange what they had received and didn't want.
+
+[Illustration: WEAPONS OF THE WILD TRIBES.]
+
+At the club in the evening of the second day, they gave us a remarkable
+dinner; all the Americans in the district were present; and the few
+Filipinos entertained us at a baile, and so our day was finished.
+
+We started out at daylight next morning and hiked back by the same
+trail; but the views seemed finer in their repetition than even when we
+first passed through them. We had had most superb weather, although it
+was the rainy season, and had enjoyed the grand panoramas to the full;
+but the last afternoon it came on to pour down in torrents, which we
+enjoyed too as an experience, for we came safely to Tagudin, where the
+people and the band joined in sending us off, as they had received us,
+and we were safely taken out through quite a heavy surf and put on board
+the Coast Guard boat _Negros_, and had a glass with ice in it again.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER VIII
+
+INSPECTING WITH THE SECRETARY OF WAR
+
+
+August thirteenth is a holiday in the Philippine Islands, for it is
+"Occupation Day," the anniversary of the fall of Manila and its
+occupation by the American army. The special event is a "camp fire" in
+the evening at the theater, when the Philippine war veterans gather
+together and have addresses and refreshments. After a dinner with Tom
+Anderson at the Army and Navy Club, with its picturesque quarters in an
+old palace, intramuros, we attended this performance, sitting in the
+Governor's box and listening to the happy self-laudation of the
+"veterans," who all wore the blue shirt and khaki of war times.
+
+It was toward midnight when we finally left and went out to our vessel,
+for we were off for a trip among the southern islands on the cable
+steamer _Rizal_. We sailed by the light of a full moon, and for a while
+had a merry bobbery of it outside, after passing Corregidor. Soon,
+though, we turned a point and had the monsoon following. In the morning
+we woke to find ourselves steaming past the fine scenery of southern
+Luzon, with the volcano of Taal in the distance. Several times during
+the Spanish occupation this volcano dealt death and destruction, and as
+late as 1911 it claimed many victims.
+
+Our first landing place was at Kotta, on Luzon, where we started ashore
+in a small launch. It was a beautiful river of palms, but our boat got
+stuck in the mud and we were delayed. We finally reached the shore and
+were put into automobiles. Then it was that I began to feel as if I had
+joined a circus parade. Escorted by bands and soldiers, our motors moved
+slowly along the streets. Everywhere people lined the way, while the
+windows of the houses fairly dripped with heads.
+
+We passed many little villages that looked prosperous, and processions
+of carts, showing that the people were active and busy. The road ran
+over picturesque bridges, for part of it was an old Spanish trail
+rejuvenated. At all the villages they had made preparations to receive
+the Secretary, bands were out, the children stood by the roadside and
+waved, and the women stood in rows to greet us. The municipal buildings
+were decorated, the piazzas hung with festoons and lanterns. They all
+wanted to give us _comida_ and let off speeches, but it was impossible
+to live through such hospitalities, so we only halted at each place a
+few minutes to shake hands.
+
+The stop for the night was Lucena, the home of Mr. Quezon, Philippine
+Commissioner to the United States Congress. He traveled with us, and we
+found him very attractive. The general opinion was that Quezon, Legarda,
+and Osmeña were "playing to the gallery" for political capital, but at
+the same time they were supporting our administration. It is a good deal
+like some of our friends in Congress, who make speeches along lines that
+they know are absolutely untenable.
+
+After climbing into a bandstand, where we stood surrounded by people
+peering up at us, flowery speeches began, demanding independence. They
+were the first of the kind we had heard. The Filipinos are good speakers
+and keen politicians. Among other remarks, an orator said: "Many things
+occur to my mind, each of which is important, but among them there is
+one which constitutes a fundamental question for the Filipinos and the
+Americans. It is a question that interests equally the people of the
+United States and the people of the Philippine Islands. It is a question
+of life or death for our people, and it is a question also of justice,
+for the people of the United States. The fundamental question is
+evidently, gentlemen, the question of a political finality of my
+country....
+
+"We are very grateful for your visit, Mr. Secretary, and we hope that
+the joy that we felt on your arrival may not be clouded, that it may not
+be tempered, but rather that it shall be heightened, by seeing in you a
+true interpretation of the desires of the Philippine people, hoping that
+on your return to the United States after your visit to the Philippine
+Islands, you will tell the truth as regards the aspirations of the
+Philippine people."
+
+In answering, the Secretary talked about the different subjects of
+interest, such as the agricultural bank, land titles, etc. He continued:
+
+"It is very gratifying to me, coming from America, and representing the
+Government in the position in which I stand, to hear such testimonials
+as you have given in regard to the men that America has sent to assist
+you in advancing your interests.... America has been careful to send men
+in whom confidence can be reposed according to their previous character;
+and I want to say to you further, that America has given you here just
+as good government as she has given to her people at home.[22] In all
+established governments fair and just criticism is welcome and I shall
+not therefore bear any spirit that would be resentful of any just
+criticism.
+
+"I shall be very glad while I am here to meet those who have the real
+welfare of the Islands at heart and the development of this country. I
+have many things to do and the time is comparatively short, but I shall
+endeavour so to conduct affairs as to be able to give audience to all
+law-abiding people who may desire to make any representations to me. I
+shall be at convenient periods here where I shall be accessible, and any
+communications which are addressed to me personally will receive proper
+consideration. Now that states in a general way the object of my visit
+and the disposition that I propose to make of my time while here.
+General Edwards, who is with me, as you know, is the Chief of the
+Insular Bureau. Certainly he, more than any other man in America,
+understands conditions in the Philippines, and his whole time, thought
+and mind are concentrated upon the problems connected with your
+welfare, and he is working all the time to advance your interests. His
+familiarity with conditions from the time of America's occupation, the
+establishment of civil government, the settling of the various
+commercial questions that have arisen from time to time, make him the
+most effective champion for the Philippine interests in America, and he
+has not hesitated in Congress whenever your interests are at stake, to
+stand up and contend for your interests with vehemence that ought to
+make him eligible to all option as a Philippine citizen....
+
+"You have there a brilliant representative (Mr. Quezon), who is capable
+of presenting your views and aspirations, and of enforcing your wishes
+with the most cogent arguments of which your cause is susceptible....
+
+"Now as to immediate independence: we Americans understand by immediate,
+right away--to-day. Do you want us to get up and leave you now--to
+depart from your country? You would find yourselves surrounded by graver
+problems than have hitherto confronted you, if we should do so. I don't
+positively assert, but I suggest that you yourselves pause, and think
+whether you might not be reaching forth and grasping a fruit which, like
+the dead sea fruit, would turn to ashes upon your lips."[23]
+
+It was at Lucena that my husband and I went to Captain and Mrs. S.'s
+house for the night. We sat on the piazza by moonlight, among beautiful
+orchids, listening to the band playing in the distance, and gossiping. I
+was interested in the servant problem, and Mrs. S. had much to tell me
+that was new.
+
+"Our native servants would much rather have a pleasant 'thank you' than
+a tip," she said; "if a tip is offered, the chances are that it will be
+refused, for the boys feel that they would do wrong to accept it. They
+are very keen, though, about their _aguinaldos_--presents--at Christmas.
+Every native who has done a hand's turn for me during the year will turn
+up Christmas Day to wish me a _feliz Pasquas_, and I am expected to give
+him a present. My whole day is for my servants and their children, who
+seem to multiply at that time. When I asked my _cochero_, 'Lucio, how
+many _niños_ have you?' he answered, 'Eleven, señora.' 'But how many
+under fourteen, Lucio?' 'Eleven, señora!' He wanted all the presents
+that he could get," she laughed.
+
+"But if they don't take tips, do they get good wages?" I asked.
+
+"Not according to American ideas. A Filipino boy will work for small
+pay, and stay a long time, in a cheerful home atmosphere. They are good
+servants, too," she continued, "if you take the trouble to train them. I
+trained a green boy to be a good cook by taking an American cook book
+and translating it into Spanish. They have a great reverence for books,
+and that boy thought he was very scientific. I've had him many years. We
+loaned him money to build his hut near us. He was a year paying it off,
+but he paid off every cent. Now he has four children for Christmas
+gifts. When I went away on a visit, he asked me to bring him a gold
+watch from America. So many years with us gave him that privilege. As we
+were gone some time I think he feared we might not return, so he wrote
+us a letter." Seeing my interest, she got the letter and read it to me:
+
+   "My Dear Sir Capt.:
+
+   "In accompany the great respect to you would express at the bottom.
+   It is a long time since our separation and I'm hardly to forget you
+   because I have had recognized you as a best master of maine. So I
+   remit best regard to you and Mrs. and how you were getting along
+   both, and if you wish to known my condition, why, I'm well as
+   ever.
+
+   "Sir Capt. If you will need me to cook for Mrs. why I'll be with
+   you as soon as I can find some money.
+
+                        "Please Sir Capt.
+               "Will you answer this letter for me?
+                        "Very respectfully
+                               "Yours,                       PEDRO."
+
+"On returning from the United States I took Pedro back," Mrs. S. went
+on, "but I found I needed extra house boys. The first who presented
+himself was Antonio, aged seventeen. He was a very serious, hard-working
+boy, whose only other service had been a year on an inter-island
+merchant ship. I took him at once, for servants from boats are usually
+well trained. He turned out well, and in a few months asked if he could
+send for his little brother to be second boy to help him. I said he
+could, so in due time Crispin smilingly presented himself. No questions
+passed as to salary or work. He was installed on any terms that suited
+me. A few weeks later, Antonio asked if he could bring his cousin in
+just to learn the work, so that he could find a place. I consented, and
+in time came Sacarius, gentle and self-effacing, and apparently intent
+on learning, and always handy and useful. Again a favour was asked, this
+time that the father of Antonio might come as a visitor for a three
+weeks' stay. He was very old, would not eat in my house, only sleep in
+the servants' room, so again I consented. Father must have already been
+on his way, permission taken for granted, for his arrival was almost
+simultaneous. I found him sitting in my kitchen in very new and very
+clean white clothes, the saintliest old tao, with no teeth, white hair,
+and a perpetual smile. He rose and bowed low to me, but he couldn't
+speak Spanish or English, so called his son to him to salute me for him
+formally. I returned it and made him welcome to my house. He bade them
+tell me he had journeyed far to tell me of his gratitude for my goodness
+to his family and that he had such _confienza_ in me that he had
+instructed his sons never to leave me. The old fellow enjoyed himself
+thoroughly, and spent so much of his son's money that Antonio shipped
+him home in a week."
+
+"Are they spoiled by living with Americans?"
+
+"Yes, but it shows most in their clothes. Antonio dresses almost as well
+as his master," laughed Mrs. S. "But he does not attempt to work in his
+best clothes, wearing the regulation _muchacho_ costume without
+objection, even though some of the army officers' muchachos are allowed
+to dress like fashion plates, and clatter round the polished floors in
+their russet shoes. A muchacho will spend his whole month's pay for a
+single pair of American russet shoes. They love russet, and the shoe
+stores flourish in consequence."
+
+"How about their amusements?" I inquired.
+
+"Whenever they can get off they go to baseball games and the movies. The
+little girls wear American-made store dresses now, and great bunches of
+ribbon in their hair, white shoes, and silk stockings. Some families who
+in the early days had hardly a rag on their backs now own motors. I
+don't believe you could force independence on them! The señoritas trip
+home from normal school with their high-heeled American pumps, and paint
+enough on their faces to qualify for Broadway. The poor children have to
+swelter in knitted socks, knitted hoods, and knitted sweaters, just
+because they come from America. Filipino children are wonderful,
+though--they never cry unless they are ill. They are allowed absurd
+liberty, but they don't seem to get spoiled. The Filipina women love
+white children intensely; the fair skins seem to charm them, and they
+really can't resist kissing a blond child."
+
+We certainly enjoyed our stay at Lucena. Mrs. S.'s house was so clean
+and homelike, with its pretty dining room and its broad veranda, and the
+big shower bath which felt so refreshing. We went to sleep that night
+watching the palm leaves waving in the moonlight.
+
+In the early morning we all got into automobiles again and ran over fine
+roads built since the American occupation. We left the China Sea and
+crossed the island to the Pacific, climbing a wonderful tropical
+mountain, where, by the way, we nearly backed off a precipice because
+our brakes refused to work, and we frightened a horse as we whizzed on
+to Antimonan. The churches here had towers something like Chinese
+pagodas, and the big lamps inside were covered with Mexican silver. All
+these island towns have a presidente and a board of governors, called
+_consejales_, and each province has a governor.
+
+Manila hemp is one of the principal products of this prosperous
+province, and it is chiefly used to make rope. The plant from which this
+hemp is made looks very much like a banana plant. The stalk is stripped
+and only the tough fibers are used. They employ the cocoanut a good
+deal to make oil, which is obtained from the dried meat, called copra.
+They had a procession of their products here at Antimonan, which was
+very interesting.
+
+The hemp and cigar importations were first carried on by Salem captains
+in the fifties. The great American shipping firm in those days was
+Russell, Sturgis, Oliphant and Company. The Philippines were out of the
+line of travel, however, and few people went there except for trade. In
+fact, as far as I know, only one book was written by an American about
+the islands before the American occupation.
+
+On the _Rizal_ next morning, when I looked out of my porthole at dawn,
+it seemed to me as if I were gazing at an exquisite Turner painting.
+Mount Mayon[24] was standing there majestically, superb in its cloak of
+silver mist, which changed to fiery red. It is the most beautiful
+mountain in the world, more perfect in outline than Fuji. Mrs. Dickinson
+was so inspired by its beauty that she wrote a poem, a stanza of which I
+give:
+
+  "Mount Mayon, in lonely grandeur,
+  Rises from a sea of flame,
+  Type of bold, aggressive manhood,
+  Lifting high a famous name
+  'Bove the conflict of endeavour
+  Ranging round its earthly base,
+  Where heartache and failure ever
+  Stand hand-clasped face to face."
+
+[Illustration: LANDING AT TOBACO.]
+
+Our landing at Tobaco was made in the most novel way. As the water was
+shallow and the _Rizal_ could not get into the dock, three carabaos
+hitched to a wagon waded out till only their noses could be seen; we
+stepped on to the two-wheeled cart and sat in state on chairs while we
+wiggle-waggled through the water to the shore. There we went to the town
+hall and had a banquet with many brown men and a few little brown women.
+The governor of the province spoke, and General Bandholtz responded in
+Spanish for the Secretary, who had gone ahead to close a government coal
+mine that was not proving successful. After the banquet we had an
+enchanting automobile ride, through quaint villages at the foot of the
+great mountain to Albay, where a review of the scouts was held by the
+Secretary in the setting sun.
+
+When our party dispersed for dinner L. and I were "farmed out" to the
+superintendent of schools, Mr. Calkins. The houses built for Americans
+were all of wood with broad piazzas, much like summer cottages at home,
+with the hall in which we dined in the center and the bedrooms leading
+off it.
+
+So much has been written about the schools and the wonders in education
+in the Philippines that I shall not try to enlarge on this interesting
+theme, other than to add my tribute to the government and the teachers,
+and also to the people who are wise enough to take advantage of the
+opportunities offered. Each little Juan and Maria, with their desire to
+learn, may soon put to shame little John and Mary, if the latter are not
+careful.
+
+"It has not been a fad with them, as we feared it would be," one of the
+teachers told me; "they have stuck to it. Many grown-ups in the family
+make real sacrifices to keep their juniors in school. My little Filipina
+dressmaker is educating all her sister's children and sending her
+brother to the law school. At first, too, we feared there would only be
+a desire to learn English and the higher branches, but with a very
+little urging they are learning domestic science and the trades, showing
+that they have a mind for practical matters after all."
+
+I begged her to tell me more about the natives, since she understood the
+people so well, and what she said is worth repeating.
+
+"Even in his grief the Filipino is a cheerful creature," she began;
+"curiously enough, too, a death in the family is an occasion for general
+and prolonged festivities. An orchestra is hired for as many days as the
+wealth of the family permits, and a banquet is spread continuously at
+which all are welcome, even former enemies of the deceased. Strangers
+from the street can come; I've often wondered if the beggars imposed on
+this custom, but there are very few of them, and they seem to respect
+it. The music drones on day after day. Sometimes only one instrument
+will be left, the other players going out to smoke, or eat, or rest; but
+they reassemble from time to time and keep it going. There is always
+much dancing, for the natives are great dancers and were not the last to
+learn the one-step and hesitation. Even in their heel-less slippers they
+are very graceful. Of course masses are said, for they firmly believe
+that these will take their departed to heaven. With this belief they are
+so happy, knowing the dear one is better off in heaven than here, that
+Chopin's funeral march is quickly turned into waltz time, and the
+_fiesta_ waxes merry!
+
+"In Spanish times each district had its band, which always played at the
+church festivals. Each church had its patron saint, and there was
+always a saint's day fiesta going on in some district. In the churchyard
+booths were spread as at our country fairs. Everything from toys to all
+kinds of chance games, of which they are so fond, was sold. The band
+played continuously and the people came in crowds. The Americans have
+catered to this spirit in the yearly carnival which is given every
+February. This carnival is more than a fiesta, though, for it is also an
+exhibition of their produce and handiwork. Their hats have always been
+famous, as has their needlework, and under American encouragement the
+basket-work exhibit has become one of the finest in the world. Some hemp
+baskets, woven in colours, look as if they were made of lustrous silk. I
+can't say which I like best, the finest of our Alaskan Indian, or
+Apache, or Filipino baskets. Their shell work is lovely, too, and their
+buttons are coming into the world's market for the first time.
+
+"The Filipinos are also learning at the School of Arts and Trades to
+carve their magnificent woods most skilfully, and are making furniture
+which will soon be coming to the States. In the early days a few
+Chinamen had the monopoly of furniture carving and making. They copied
+the very ornate pieces brought to Manila by the Spaniards from Spain
+and France in the native mahogany called nara, and in a harder and very
+beautiful wood called _acle_, or in a still harder one known as
+_camagon_, a native ebony. American women soon began to search the
+second-hand stores and pawn shops for the originals, and had them
+polished and restored at Bilibid Prison. The expense, considering, was
+small. A single-piece-top dining table of solid mahogany is often nearly
+eight feet in diameter and two or three inches thick."
+
+Another of the teachers told me something of her experiences in the
+early days, when she went out with her father, who was one of the first
+American army officers there.
+
+"When we landed we lived in an old Spanish palace," she said, "which of
+course we proceeded to clean. That was the first thing all Americans did
+on landing. We took eleven army dump-cart loads from the palace of every
+kind of dirt conceivable. Then we began washing windows and mirrors and
+lamps, which I am sure had never been touched with water before. The
+servants were so amazed that they were of very little use. They were
+mostly Chinese, and had never seen white women work before. The sight of
+such energy staggered them. Just when we got things running smoothly,
+father was called home, and our cleaned house fell to his successor's
+wife, who wept and said she had never been put in such a dirty place.
+
+"It was after this that my real adventures began. Father McKimmon was
+opening public schools, and wanted English taught. So he went among the
+army girls and just begged us to give up a few of our good times and do
+some of this work. I didn't see how I could teach people when I didn't
+know their language, but he explained how simple it would be, and we
+could learn Spanish at the same time.
+
+"It was fun to work with the Spanish nuns. They were so interested in
+us, and their quaint, old-fashioned methods with the children amused me
+constantly. Arms were always folded when they rose to recite, and it was
+always 'Servidor de usted'--at your service--before they could sit down.
+The nuns soon became pupils of ours, too. When the Spanish prisoners
+liberated by our men from the Filipinos were brought to Manila they were
+quartered in our school for a hospital. I never saw such starved wrecks.
+Many of them--young men--had no teeth left.
+
+"More Americans were arriving on every transport, and a most delightful
+society was forming of army and navy people, government officials, and
+naval officers of every nation, in addition to the original Spanish
+population and the small colonies of many countries. There were parties
+of all kinds, and as we trained our cooks into our own ways we ventured
+on dinner parties. I shall never forget the first dinner I went to that
+was cooked in Spanish style. There was every kind of wine I ever heard
+of, but no water. I wanted some, but it was not to be had. My host
+apologized for not having provided any, but no one dared drink the city
+supply. We sat down to table at nine and rose at twelve, and when the
+men joined us at one they were all much amazed that I made the move to
+go home.
+
+"I left Manila to visit my brother in the provinces. Traveling in those
+days was very different from what it is now. After leaving the
+Manila-Dagupan Railroad there were no motors to go up the mountain;
+instead of that, I rode an ancient American horse till I was tired and
+burning with the sun. Then my brother put me in a bull cart, and I sat
+on the floor of that till the sun was preferable to the bumping. I
+arrived at four in the afternoon and was put down in an empty room with
+my trunk and a packing box. Being a good army girl, that packing box
+had all the elements of comfort, but first there was cleaning to be
+done. My brother was the commanding officer in that town, his house
+being at the corner of the Plaza, and an outpost. So he sent me a police
+party--that is, ten native prisoners and an American sentry; they were
+armed with brooms and buckets. I said, 'Sentry, this room is very dirty.
+The Captain sent these men here to clean it for me.' 'Yes, mam,' said
+the sentry. 'Well,' I told him, 'I want the ceiling cleaned first, even
+the corners!' He turned to his gentle prisoners with 'Here, _hombres_,
+you shinny up that pole and _limpia_ those corners!' He didn't know much
+Spanish, but limpia means clean, and is the one essential word. I soon
+unpacked my box and turned it into an organdie-draped dressing table,
+after out of it had come all that made the room livable.
+
+"That night I was sleeping the sleep of the very tired when I was
+awakened by a blood-curdling shout, a gun was thrown to the floor, and a
+man's voice yelled for help. I simply froze--I couldn't move hand or
+foot. The voice was in the outpost guard room, just under my own. Of
+course, I was sure the whole guard was overpowered and being boloed. I
+waited for them to come to me as I lay there. Then I heard a man's
+voice call from an upstairs window, 'What's the matter down there?' and
+the answer, 'Number Four had a nightmare, sir--thought there was a goat
+on his bunk.' Just as I was going to sleep again I threw out my hand in
+my restlessness, and to my horror, clasped it round a cold, shiny
+boa-constrictor. Every large house has one in the garret to keep down
+the rats. This time I gave the scream and sprang out of bed. But no
+snake was to be found, and I decided it must have been the bed post. But
+what a night that was!"
+
+We reëmbarked at Legaspi and sailed on to the island of Samar, which is
+in the typhoon belt. Catbalogan is a town which has been visited by very
+severe typhoons and terrible plagues, but by very few people. It is a
+small place, far away and forgotten, but the island of Samar is where
+the massacre of the Ninth Infantry occurred--the massacre at Balangiga
+by the natives in 1902. There were triumphal arches of bamboo and
+flowers, and speeches in the town hall, Governor Forbes speaking in both
+English and Spanish. Afterward eight small boys and girls dressed in
+red, white and blue danced for us enchantingly the Charcca and the Jota,
+clicking their little heels and snapping their little fingers in true
+Spanish style. Delicious sweetmeats were offered on the veranda, real
+native dishes, and we drank cocoanut milk and ate cocoanut candy,
+preserves, nuts and cakes. Two half-Chinese girls who spoke English took
+very good care of us.
+
+As we left we looked out over the sea to the setting sun and watched a
+lonely fisherman standing on a rock throwing his net.
+
+Next morning from the _Rizal_, we saw across a stretch of calm water the
+blue ranges of the mountains of Bohol. Native bancas glided silently
+about, and a straw-sailed boat drifted idly round the point, where the
+picturesque gray walls of the oldest Spanish fort in the Philippines
+stood guard. Its sentinel houses at the corners were all moss grown, and
+pretty pink flowers were breaking out of the crevices of the rocks.
+
+We landed at Cebu, which is the oldest town in the Islands, and passed
+down a street lined with ancient houses whose second stories arcaded the
+sidewalk. They were all in good condition, in spite of their age, for
+they were built of the wonderful hard woods that last forever. In fact,
+Cebu has the look of a new and prosperous place, for there have been
+fires which burnt up many of the ramshackle houses and gave a chance to
+widen the streets and replace the old structures with permanent looking
+buildings. The American government has done wonders in deepening the
+harbour and building a sea wall, behind which concrete warehouses are
+going up.
+
+There was a scramble to a review near the barracks, then another
+scramble to a reception at the house of the colonel commanding--a very
+nice but hot occasion--and then still another scramble to the dedication
+of a really excellent schoolhouse.
+
+A young priest took us to see the famous idol, the small black infant
+Christ. We went to the convent of the Dominicans near the church, and
+passed through its pretty, unkempt court, up a staircase with treads and
+handrail richly carved in a wood which was hard as iron, and black with
+age. It was handsome work, such as we had been looking for and hadn't
+seen before. In the sacristy, too, and the robing room, there were
+screens and paneling with richly detailed carvings. Passing down the
+galleries of the convent, where we could see some of the friars at work,
+we entered the special chapel where this holy image is kept. Several
+doors were taken off a rather gaudily gilded altar, until at last the
+little figure was revealed. Its back was toward the room and it had to
+be carefully turned--a small, brown, wooden doll, all dressed in cloth
+of gold, and bejeweled like the Bambino of Rome. It is considered a most
+sacred and wonderful heaven-sent idol.[25]
+
+As we had heard speeches by Filipinos and head hunters, I was curious to
+know what the Chinese would have to say, and that night there was an
+opportunity to find out, for we were invited to a dinner given by the
+Chinese merchants. I quote from the speech made by Mr. Alfonso Zarata Sy
+Cip, which was specially interesting:
+
+"The Chinese have traded with these Islands since long before Confucius
+and Mencius," said Mr. Sy Cip; "and for centuries we have been coming
+here and assimilating with the Filipinos, and to-day we are deeply
+interested in the welfare of the country. The Chinese have been called a
+nation of traders, the Jews of the East, but we are more than traders.
+We are labourers, artisans, farmers, manufacturers, and producers.
+
+"A very large percentage of the growth and development of the commerce
+and material interests of the Islands is due to the efforts of our
+countrymen.
+
+"The infusion of Chinese blood has strengthened and improved the
+Filipino people.
+
+"Chinese labour is recognized all over the world as the best cheap
+labour in existence. Since American occupation of these Islands you have
+excluded our labour from entering. Why? Not for the reason that it would
+tend to lower the standard of living among Filipino labourers, because
+the standard of living among Chinese labourers in the Philippines is
+higher than among the Filipino labourers. Hence the introduction of
+Chinese labourers would tend rather to improve conditions in this
+regard. You do not exclude him for the reason that he works for lower
+wages than the labourers of the country, because, on the contrary, the
+Chinese labourer in the Philippines receives higher wages than the
+native labourer, hence the introduction of Chinese labourers would tend
+rather to improve the condition of the native labourers as far as wages
+are concerned. You do not exclude him for the reason that he will not
+become assimilated with the natives of the country, because centuries of
+experience have shown that Filipinos and Chinese do assimilate and
+readily amalgamate, and the result, as I have already said, is an
+improvement of the Filipino people. If you are excluding Chinese
+labourers from the Philippines because of political reasons then I
+confess such reasons, if they exist, have been carefully guarded as
+secrets from the public.
+
+"Lack of room is not a reason for excluding Chinese labourers, nor is
+lack of need for their services. In the great island of Mindanao alone
+it is doubtful if five per cent of the tillable land is under
+cultivation, and in other places it is the same. A large part of the
+rice consumed in these Islands is imported from other countries, yet we
+have here the finest tropical climate in the world and the most
+productive soil. Let a sufficient number of Chinese labourers come into
+the Philippines and we will guarantee that in ten years we will be
+sending rice to the gates of Pekin and Tokyo."
+
+Toward night we sailed on the _Rizal_ from Cebu for the land of the
+Moros. Out in the Sulu Sea, one felt very near heaven when the sky
+turned hazy gray in the afterglow, and the distant islands mauve, only
+their peaks flaming like volcanoes from the hidden sun. Then the big
+stars came out, like Japanese lanterns, and left a comet-like trail
+upon the dancing waters.
+
+From their holes below the cabin boys, Ah Sing and Sing Song, would pop
+out like slim white mice with their long black pigtails, with little cot
+beds tucked under their arms which they would place in rows upon the
+deck. Ah Sing would say, "Cheih ko koe" (that will do), and Sing Song
+would answer, "Hsiao hsin" (be careful). Later, when the moon rose out
+of the sea and the Southern Cross appeared on the horizon, shadowy forms
+glided silently up the companionway. But the silence did not last. Some
+one would call to Sing Song in pidgin English:
+
+"Boy! go catchy whiskey, Tansan; top side, talky man little more fat!"
+And some one else would say to Ah Sing,
+
+"You fool boy, you catchy me one bath."
+
+Ah Sing seemed to understand. He would wag his head and answer, "You
+good man, no talky all the time, makey me sick." And he would disappear.
+
+At sight of a tall, genial man, the people in their cots would sing out,
+"Doctor Heiser's a friend of mine, a friend of mine, a friend of mine,"
+etc. American judges, and Filipino congressmen and generals were of the
+company. Occasionally a whisper, very often a giggle, sometimes a
+clinking of glasses, and good night kisses, were heard, and then the
+sand man closed our eyes.
+
+[Illustration: A MORO _DATO_ AND HIS WIFE, WITH A RETINUE OF
+ATTENDANTS.]
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER IX
+
+THE MOROS
+
+
+On reaching Mindanao, the land of the Moros, we went ashore at Camp
+Overton, where we were met by army officers and dougherties drawn by
+teams of six mules. After a hand-shake at the commanding officer's home,
+we were furnished with a big escort of cavalry and started climbing up,
+up, among the hills. Soldiers were hidden in the tall grass all along
+the way to make sure that nothing would happen to "the great White
+Sultan with the big Red Flag," as the Moros called the Secretary. Army
+men could not go out alone, even in those days, for they were attacked
+by bands and killed, principally to get their weapons, which the Moros
+were very keen to possess. The _datos_, the head men of the Moro tribes,
+were allowed to have guns, but none of the other natives. A storm came
+up, however, not long ago on Lake Lanao, at Camp Keithley, and for fear
+that his boat would upset, General Wood had a great deal of ammunition
+thrown overboard, which, it was discovered, was subsequently fished up
+by the natives.
+
+The Moros are Mohammedan Malays. They came in their boats from islands
+further south, and in 1380 were converted to Islam by an Arab wise man,
+Makadum,[26] who made his way to Sulu and Mindanao.
+
+One hears then of Raja Baginda, who came from Sumatra in 1450; his
+daughter married Abu Bahr, the law giver, who established the Mohammedan
+Church and, after his father-in-law's death, became sultan and founded a
+dynasty. In the old days the Moros were all pirates and slave traders.
+Both Spanish and American authorities have tried to suppress slavery,
+but it still exists. It is said a woman will bring about forty pesos.
+
+A dato's slaves to-day are well treated, and form part of the family. A
+slave, moreover, has a chance to rise in the social scale, for Piang,
+whom we met, was once a slave, but became a powerful chief and a friend
+of the Americans.
+
+The ruler of all the Moros is the Sultan of Sulu, whom we did not see
+because he was in Europe at the time we were in the Islands. It is said
+that a few years ago he would sometimes appear in the market on the
+back of a slave, with an umbrella held over his head. Here he would stay
+while the people kissed his hands and feet. He may have changed his
+customs since his trip.
+
+Dampier, who visited the northern islands of the Philippines, has also
+left us notes of his stay on Mindanao, which are still true in the main.
+He says:
+
+"The island of Mindanao is divided into small states, governed by
+hostile sultans, the governor of Mindanao being the most powerful. The
+city of Mindanao stood on the banks of the river, about two miles from
+the sea. It was about a mile in length, and winded with the curve of the
+river. The houses were built on posts from fourteen to twenty feet high,
+and in the rainy season looked as if built on a lake, the natives going
+their different ways in canoes. The houses are of one story, divided
+into several rooms, and entered by a ladder or stair placed outside. The
+roofing consists of palm or palmetto leaves.... The floors of the
+habitations are of wicker-work or bamboo.
+
+"A singular custom, but which facilitated intercourse with the natives
+and vice versa, was of exchanging names and forming comradeship with a
+native, whose house was thenceforth considered the home of the
+stranger."
+
+Alimund Din's name stands out in this meager Moro history beyond all
+others, for he was the first and only Christian ruler in this land. Even
+before he became a Christian he was a reformer, and suppressed piracy.
+He not only coined money but had both an army and a navy, and lived in
+such splendour as probably has not existed since those days, among the
+Moros.
+
+Alimund Din ruled about the middle of the eighteenth century, in the
+time of Philip V of Spain. In return for ammunition to enable the
+Spanish to keep down piracy, he allowed the Jesuit fathers to enter his
+country. In time, however, they caused trouble among the Moros, and
+civil war broke out, as Bautilan, a relative of Alimund Din's, preferred
+the Mohammedan religion to the new ideas of the Jesuits. Alimund Din and
+his followers took flight in boats, and in time reached Manila, where
+they interceded for Spanish protection. The Spaniards showered him with
+presents, gave him a royal entrance into the city, and finally converted
+him to Christianity. Later, he was sent back, escorted by Spanish ships,
+but Bautilan's fleet attacked them. As the Spaniards suspected Alimund
+Din of becoming a Christian not entirely for Christianity's sake,
+they threw him into prison. The throne was restored to him in 1763 by
+the English, who occupied this part of the island for a short time.
+
+[Illustration: A MORO GRAVE.]
+
+The Moros are not supposed to eat meat or drink wine, although they have
+been known to drink whiskey and soda with Americans, as well as eat pork
+and beans on occasions. There are no mosques in this region or holy
+dancing-girls (who can do no wrong) but there are Moro priests or
+_panditas_ who go from house to house. They have little education, but
+some of them have traveled. It is the custom for a relative of the
+deceased to watch and protect a Moro grave for many months. Such a
+mourner can sometimes be seen squatting near by under a yellow umbrella.
+The Moros have as many wives as they can afford, but not more than they
+can afford, for it is an insult to speak of a man's wife as "begging
+bread."
+
+The Moros are smaller than the East Indian Mohammedans, but are strong
+and slight, and have fine features. They appear especially cruel and
+determined because their teeth are black from _buyo_. In war time, many
+of the women fought beside the men, and it is supposed to be they who
+mutilated the Americans found dead on the field after battle. The
+people whom we met on the road with their ponies loaded with hemp
+seldom smiled and did not bow, but they looked us straight in the eye,
+and there was no touch of sulkiness about them.
+
+It is very difficult to distinguish the men from the women, as they
+dress much alike. But you see few of the latter on the road, for being
+Mohammedans, most of them are kept at home. They are not veiled like
+other Moslem women, except when first married.
+
+The costumes of the Moros differ to such a degree--and for no reason
+that I could discover--that it is difficult to describe them. Many wear
+tight trousers, which are something like those of the Spaniards--so
+tight that they are sewn on the men and never come off until worn
+out--and are often bright red or yellow in colour. On the other hand,
+some wear very loose, baggy trousers or skirts of different shades.
+Indeed, they are the most gaily dressed people I have ever seen, and
+their brown skins set off the vivid yellows and greens and reds and
+magentas and purples of which their trousers and jackets and turbans and
+handkerchiefs are made. The jackets have a Chinese appearance. The
+turbans might be old Aunt Dinah's of the South. The sashes, which are
+woven in the Moro houses, are of silk, bright green and dark red being
+the predominant colours. They are knotted on one side, generally a kriss
+or a bolo being held in the knot, and are tied about the waist so
+tightly that the men look almost laced, and perhaps that accounts for
+their womanish appearance.
+
+When the American army first occupied this region they treated the Moros
+well and found them friendly. Take for instance Zamboanga in the south,
+an especially interesting region. When the American soldiers entered,
+the Spanish guard left the garrison, and the Spanish population and the
+priests followed. The Americans found outside the town gates a large
+barbed wire bird cage, where the Moros had been compelled to leave their
+arms before entering the town at night, to avoid an uprising. The
+government of Zamboanga at this time was reorganized by the American
+officers. A Filipino presidente was appointed, a dato to head the Moros,
+and a Captain Chinese, as he was called, to manage his people, who were
+mostly merchants and pearl fishers.
+
+Mindanao was under a military-civil government that worked wonders, for
+in a few years many of the Moros were brought under control, and they
+became loyal Americans, although they had always been bitter enemies of
+the Filipinos and the Spaniards. They say they have found the Americans
+brave, and have not been lied to by them, and so they seek our
+protection. Although the Moro and the head-hunter are so different, they
+are alike in one respect--if they care for an official and have
+confidence in him they do not want him changed. It is the man they are
+willing to obey rather than the government. Of course, there are
+thousands of them, fierce as ever, back in the mountains, and they are
+still fanatic and wild. Even among those who are under control, the
+greatest care has to be exercised, for they have the hatred of the
+Christian deep in their hearts, and they may run amuck at any moment and
+kill till they are killed; but this is a part of their faith, they ask
+no quarter, and nothing stops them but death.
+
+Besides the danger of their attack by religious mania they have a great
+desire for rifles, as I have said, and they are always "jumping" the
+constabulary, attacking small parties suddenly from ambush and cutting
+them down with their knives, or killing sentries; so that constant care
+has to be used, and the sentinels walk at night in twos, almost back to
+back, so as to have eyes on all sides. A few weeks before we arrived
+there had been several cases of "jumping."
+
+An American army officer told me the fights with the Moros generally
+occurred on the trails among the hills; as the foliage is so thick, it
+is easy for the natives to conceal themselves on either side, sometimes
+in ditches, and give the Americans a surprise. For this reason, a drill
+was found necessary for single file fighting. Every other soldier was
+taught to respond to the order of one and two. When an attack was made,
+the "ones" shot to the right, the "twos" to the left. This proved
+successful. The same officer said the Moros would often use decoys to
+lead the troops astray. Seeing fresh tracks, they would hasten on in
+pursuit, and be led away from their supplies, while their enemy would be
+left behind to attack them in the rear. Walking on the mountain trails
+was very hard on the soldiers' shoes, and on one of these expeditions
+their boots gave out, so they were obliged to make soles for their shoes
+out of boxes and tie them on with leather straps.
+
+Up, up we drove; the clatter of the cavalry could be heard in front and
+behind, and the dougherty, how it did rattle! It was a pretty sight to
+see the party traveling through the tropical forests and winding across
+the green uplands, with their pennons and the Secretary's red flag
+(which made a great impression on the natives, we heard), and the wagons
+rumbling along, with a rearguard behind and the scouts in the distance.
+John, the coloured man, snapped his whip, and the mules trotted along,
+and the air became cooler, and we drove over a plain where real mountain
+rice was planted. Occasionally a Moro shack could be seen in the
+distance.
+
+At an outpost, where we stopped to change mules, we saw a beautiful
+waterfall, perhaps the loveliest that I had ever seen, called Santa
+Maria Cristina. From a greater height than Niagara it plunged down into
+a deep valley of giant trees. It reminded me of a superb waterfall near
+Seattle.
+
+At last we reached Camp Keithley, on the mountain plain, a forlorn lot
+of unpainted houses with tin roofs and piazzas, but beautifully
+situated, like some station in the Himalayas. There was splendid
+mountain scenery disappearing into the distances, and views of the ocean
+far away, and, on the other side, the great lake of Lanao, an inland sea
+more than two thousand feet above the ocean, with imposing ranges about.
+This lake, which has always been the center of Moro life, is surrounded
+by native villages, and the military post is important and much liked
+by the officers quartered there.
+
+The Secretary, my husband and I were billeted on Major Beacom, the
+commanding officer--Mrs. Dickinson had not felt quite equal to the trip.
+The Major's house was very attractive, and his little German housekeeper
+gave us excellent food and made the orderlies fly about for our comfort.
+
+We went almost at once to the market place, which was intensely
+interesting. The gorgeous colours and gold buttons of the costumes were
+magnificent. Brass bowls for chow were for sale, and betel-nut boxes
+inlaid with silver, and round silver ones with instruments attached to
+clean the ears and nose. There are four compartments in these betel-nut
+boxes--for lime, tobacco, the betel nut, and a leaf in which to wrap the
+mixture called buyo.
+
+Here we saw the spear and shield dance. The dancer had a headdress that
+covered his forehead and ears, making him look quite ridiculous,
+absolutely as though he were on the comic opera stage. With shield and
+spear he danced as swiftly and silently as a cat, creeping and springing
+until your blood ran cold, especially as you knew he had killed many a
+man.
+
+In the afternoon, after reviewing the troops and inspecting the
+quarters, we crossed a corner of the lake and landed at a Moro village.
+It was raining hard and the mud was deep. We waded through a street,
+followed by the people in their best clothes--one in a black velvet
+suit, another in a violet velvet jacket. I saw only two women in the
+streets; they were not veiled nor brilliantly dressed, but had red
+painted lips and henna on their nails. The Moro constabulary here wore
+red fezzes and khaki, and the officer in command at the time was of
+German birth.
+
+After we had passed through a bamboo trail, we came into a little open
+place with three fine Moro houses about, set up above the ground on
+great posts made of tree trunks. Unlike Filipino houses, they had
+façades all carved in a rough and handsome sort of arabesque, painted in
+bright reds and blues, and with pointed roofs and coloured cloths
+fluttering out of the open spaces, they made fine effects. The long
+cracks in the walls served as peepholes, where the snapping black eyes
+of the many wives of the datos were peering out at us. In front, in the
+little green space, pennons were planted and there was a huge
+Chinese-looking sea serpent, or dragon, on wheels, with a body of gaily
+coloured stuffs, and a rearing movable head. This cavorted about in
+time to the endless noise of the tom-toms. A crowd of natives stood
+round in their fanciful raiment.
+
+[Illustration: A MORO _DATO'S_ HOUSE.]
+
+Into one of these houses we were invited. We mounted the ladder to the
+one large room in the front, into which the sliding panel shutters
+admitted the air freely, so that it was cool and shaded. Here sat the
+wives and the slaves in a corner, playing on a long wooden instrument
+with brass pans, which they struck, producing high and low sounds, with
+a little more tune than the Igorots. The big room was bare, except for a
+long shelf on which was some woven cloth and a fine collection of the
+native brass work, for this is the center of the brass-workers.
+
+We moved on through the little town of nipa houses to visit old Dato
+Manilibang, whose house was not as fine as those we had seen before, but
+where we were admitted into two rooms. From the entrance we streaked
+muddy feet across the bamboo-slatted floor into his reception room,
+where a sort of divan occupied one side--on which the Secretary was
+asked to sit. Behind this cushioned seat were piled the boxes with the
+chief's possessions, and here he sits in state in the daytime and sleeps
+at night. The women, who were huddled together on one side of the room,
+wore bracelets and rings, and one was rather pretty.
+
+At dawn we were up and off again. What a day! We had two hours on a boat
+crossing a lovely lake, surrounded by mountains, on the shore of which
+some of the wildest Moros live. Our boat was a big launch, a sort of
+gunboat, which, strangely enough, the Spaniards had brought up here and
+sunk in the lake when the war came on, we were told, and which had been
+resurrected successfully. It was a steep climb up the opposite side of
+the lake, but most of us scrambled up on horses, till we topped the
+ridge and came to Camp Vickers, a station with fine air and outlook but
+rather small and pathetic.
+
+The picturesque Moros had gathered here to greet the Secretary, and
+their wail of welcome was something strange and weird. A dato would come
+swinging by, followed in single file by his betel-box carrier, chow
+bearer and slaves. Some of the chiefs rode scraggly ponies, on high
+saddles, with their big toes in stirrups of cord almost up under their
+chins, and with bells on the harness that rattled gaily. And, of course,
+the tom-toms kept up their endless music.
+
+We had two more hours of horseback riding--we hoped to see a boar hunt,
+but owing to some misunderstanding, it did not come off. Then, after
+a stand-up luncheon at Major Brown's, we started down the trail again in
+a dougherty.
+
+[Illustration: BAGOBO MAN WITH POINTED TEETH.]
+
+It was a beautiful drive through this forest on the island of Mindanao.
+We first crossed open grassy uplands, then dipped down through the great
+glades of the most tropical forest I have ever seen, with towering hard
+woods and tree ferns, with bamboos and clinging air plants and orchids,
+and there was mystery and wonder about the giant growths. The trees
+seemed taller than the elms of New England or the cedars of Oregon. They
+dripped with huge-leaved, clinging vines, which grew higgledy-piggledy,
+covering everything. The grass, too, with waving purple tassels, grew
+higher than a man's head, twice as high as the pigmy brown people who
+have their houses in these trees.
+
+The tree-dwellers just referred to are the Manobos and the Bagobos with
+pointed teeth--for Mindanao is not entirely inhabited by Moros; there
+are supposed to be no less than twenty-four tribes on this island alone.
+They build in trees, to escape the spear thrusts of their neighbours
+through the bamboo floors. We were to make their acquaintance later.
+
+A drenching rain came on that afternoon, through which the escort jogged
+along, while we clung in our dougherties, nearly shaken to pieces, and
+reached Malabang, on the other side of the island, as much fatigued as
+if we had been on horseback all the way. The military post here was most
+attractive, with the prettiest of nipa houses for the officers, and the
+parade lined with shading palms, and flower-bordered walks--a charming
+station. We were quartered with Lieutenant Barry and his wife, a
+delightful young couple, in their thatched house, and dined with Major
+Sargent, the commanding officer, who has written some good books on
+military topics.
+
+The Celebes Sea was calm and lovely when we left Malabang. We passed
+along the coast of Mindanao toward a long lowland that lay between the
+high mountains of the island. This was the plain of the Cotobato, a
+great river which overflows its banks annually like the Nile and has
+formed a fertile valley that could be turned to good account. The mouth
+of the river is shallow, so that we were transferred to a stern-wheel
+boat that was waiting, and began to work our way up, against the rapid
+current, past low, uninteresting banks that were proving rather
+monotonous, when suddenly we turned a point and saw the town of
+Cotobato.
+
+The Moros and the other tribes were in their full splendour here. Soon,
+down this tropical river, where crocodiles dozed and monkeys chattered
+and paroquets shrieked, there came a flotilla from the Arabian Nights,
+manned by galley slaves. On the masts and poles of one of the barges
+floated banners, and under the canopy of green sat a real Princess. Some
+of the boats were only dugouts with outriggers, but they were decorated,
+too, and all the tribes were dressed in silks and velvets of the
+brightest colours.
+
+There was great excitement and much cheering as we approached the
+landing stage, and the troops stood at attention, while the rest of the
+shore was alive with the throng of natives in all the colours of the
+rainbow. The Secretary inspected the troops, and we saw for the first
+time the Moro constabulary, wearing turbans and sashes, but with bare
+legs; nevertheless, they looked very dashing. Indeed, the Moros were so
+different in character and appearance from any people we had seen before
+that they might as well have come down from the stars.
+
+The Secretary was taken to meet the datos, as they stood in line
+beneath the great trees, with the motley crowds of retainers behind
+them, in such a medley of colours as I had never imagined before. The
+sunlight filtered through the trees upon the barbaric costumes, while
+the gaily dressed women stood behind the men and peered over them. The
+brown men looked dignified and very self-respecting, too, although the
+scene was like the setting of a comic opera, where the imagination had
+been allowed to run riot.
+
+There we saw Dato Piang and Gimbungen, a very fat dato--what a
+delightful bug-a-boo name--also Ynock, whose ear had been cut off in a
+fight, we were told; but strange as it may seem, he said he had clapped
+it onto his face again and tied it on, and it had grown there. So it
+hung attached somewhere down on his cheek, and gave him a very peculiar
+appearance. When the Moros conquered the Filipinos, this dato had the
+captured women stripped and made to walk before him, and then took them
+off to the mountains. When he was taken prisoner later by the Filipinos,
+he was compelled to work in chains in the streets.
+
+Under a canopy the Princess received us, a native woman whose descent
+was traced for many hundreds of years--said to be a pure Moro, although
+she looked rather Chinese--and who was recognized as of the highest
+social superiority, but had little political power. She herself was
+draped in varied colours, while her chamberlain wore a brocade coat of
+crimson and gold cloth. Behind her stood her maids bearing the gold
+betel-nut boxes and chow trays and umbrellas of her rank.
+
+Our luncheon with the commanding officer, Major Heiberg, and his wife,
+was eaten in delightful little kiosks of nipa and bamboo, which had been
+built in a small palm grove. The dancing girls of the Princess, who had
+long nails protected by silver covers, gave us a performance afterward.
+Curiously enough, their dance was very Japanese in character. Then some
+Manobos, picturesque in short, skin-tight trousers and bolero jackets,
+with bags and boxes beautifully worked in bright beads, danced a
+graceful, monotonous step. The women have a swaying, snake-like dance
+with waving arms and jingling of bracelets and "hiplets," if I may be
+allowed to coin the word.
+
+At last, after so many adventures, we found ourselves again on board the
+_Rizal_. An enchanting spot on this boat was a projection over the bow,
+on which one could sit curled up high above the water. On this perch we
+felt like the red-winged sea gulls that circled far above us. We passed
+over a sea of polished jade, which at night shone with phosphorescence
+like gleaming silver.
+
+Next morning, August 23d, we approached Zamboanga. Five American ships,
+all decorated, came steaming out to meet us and fell in behind in order,
+making a lovely sight on the bright, smooth seas. As we neared the town,
+we suddenly saw a large flotilla of native boats, with tom-toms beating
+and thousands of flags fluttering--such a gay sight! Banners of all
+shapes, streaming and flapping and waving, and such colours and
+combinations of colours--stripes of green and purple and orange in
+designs of lemon and red and magenta, serpentine flags and square ones,
+hung in all sorts of ways, and brightly coloured canopies under which
+sat the sultans, and green umbrellas and yellow and--bang! off went
+their small lantankas, tiny native-made cannon--a most exciting
+reception!
+
+We landed under triumphal arches and were driven in state carriages
+through lines of school children, who sang and threw us flowers from old
+Spanish gardens. The post was really beautiful, for it had much left
+from old Spanish times, and what had been done over had been done
+with taste. The green parade had a terraced canal passing through it,
+and avenues of palm; the officers' quarters, smothered in flowering
+plants and fronting out over the glittering blue sea, were large and
+airy and finer than any we had seen before. It is considered one of the
+best posts in the Philippines, and seemed cool and pleasant.
+
+[Illustration: BAGOBOS WITH MUSICAL INSTRUMENTS.]
+
+There was the usual procession--first, the troops of the garrison and
+the constabulary, then thousands of visiting Moros, Bagobos and Manobos,
+of every colour of skin and clothes, many of them whooping and leaping,
+and then a tiresome following of hundreds of Filipinos, who had joined
+in to make a political demonstration. It is said the Filipinos did not
+wish the Moros to take part in the procession.
+
+Exciting times followed at the meeting after this parade, where both
+Filipino and Moro speakers were heard. Said a Filipino, addressing the
+Secretary:
+
+"You have just visited our province and have just learned its
+conditions; at such places in it through which you have passed you must
+have seen quite a number of Moros, but I believe that a separation ...
+could very well be established, to the end that both people, the
+Christian Filipino and the Filipino Moro, might have the government
+that corresponds respectively to each of them, for it is a very
+regrettable thing that on account of the presence of the latter we
+Christians should be unable to enjoy the liberties that reason and right
+would grant us....
+
+"I think it is my duty to advise you that the Moros who filed past the
+grandstand were brought from remote and distant places with the
+exclusive purpose of giving greater éclat to your reception. Moreover,
+it must be borne in mind always, in dealing with the affairs of this
+province, that the Moros have no political influence, possess no
+property, nor help pay the expense of the government."
+
+Then Dato Mandi spoke:
+
+"I am here, El Raja Mura Mandi, representing the Moros. As I look about,
+I see far more Moros than the Filipino contingent, and if that is so,
+that is the reason it is called the Moro Province. (Tremendous applause
+from the Moros.)
+
+"When first the Americans came here, from the very beginning, whatever
+they asked me to do I did. I was loyal to them ever. Now I have heard a
+rumour that we Moros are in the hands of the Filipinos....
+
+"If the American Government does not want the Moro Province any more
+they should give it back to us. It is a Moro province. It belongs to
+us." (Tremendous applause by the Moros.)
+
+Dato Sacaluran threw down the Moro challenge:
+
+"I am an old man. I do not want any more trouble. But if it should come
+to that, that we shall be given over to the Filipinos, I still would
+fight." (Applause.)
+
+But Hadji Nangnui, who spoke of himself as "a Samal," made the clearest
+statement of the Moro position:
+
+"The Secretary of War must look the matter in the face. We are a
+different race; we have a different religion; we are Mohammedans. And if
+we should be given over to the Filipinos, how much more would they treat
+us badly, than they treated even the Spanish badly who were their own
+mothers and their own fathers in generations? How did they treat them?
+Think about it! Think twice! We far prefer to be in the hands of the
+Americans, who are father and mother to us now, than to be turned over
+to another people." (Applause.)
+
+In the evening we dined delightfully at the Pershings'. After dinner,
+the Moros danced in the garden the spear and shield dance, and the
+Bagobo women gave the scarf dance. The Bagobos still offer human
+sacrifices. Their caps, if tied in a certain way, show how many men they
+have killed. Their dress is made of cloth which they weave from
+carefully selected and dyed fibers of Manila hemp, and it is treated
+with wax in such a way as to make it very smooth and durable. In the
+glow of the red light from Chino Charlie's famous lanterns, their
+picturesque costumes, gleaming with bead work, added much to the
+brilliancy of the scene. They love music and make some large stringed
+instruments. They also play the flute from the nose, with one nostril
+stopped up, like the Hawaiians.
+
+The dancing under the palms in the garden, by the rippling seas, where
+the moonlight flooded down radiantly, was quite like a strange dream.
+
+At this dinner I was told the story given by Dean Worcester by which the
+Moros explain why they do not eat pork:
+
+"Mahamoud had a grandson and a granddaughter.... As he was king of the
+world, Christ came to his house to visit him. Mahamoud, jealous of him,
+told him to prove his power by 'divining' what he had in a certain room,
+where, in fact, were his grandchildren. Christ replied that he had no
+wish to prove his power, and would not 'divine.' Mahamoud then vowed
+that if he did not answer correctly, he should pay for it with his life.
+Christ responded, 'You have two animals in there, different from
+anything else in the world.' Mahamoud replied, 'No, you are wrong, and I
+will now kill you.' Christ said, 'Look first, and see for yourself.'
+Mahamoud opened the door, and out rushed two hogs, into which Christ had
+changed his grandchildren."
+
+[Illustration: BAGOBO WITH NOSE FLUTE.]
+
+Some verses recited at General Pershing's dinner showed the feeling of
+army officers about their life in the Philippines. A stanza runs:
+
+  "What is it makes us fret so hard
+    In this benighted land?
+  It isn't lack of courage
+  And it isn't lack of 'sand.'
+    It isn't fear of Moros
+  Or Bagobos from the hills--
+    It's the many great discomforts
+  And the many, many ills."
+
+It is interesting to read in a recent number of the Manila _Times_ that
+Zamboanga, which seemed so like a picture handed down from Spanish days,
+has absorbed a good share of American progressiveness and is said to
+stand in a class by itself among Philippine towns. Waterworks and a
+hydro-electric plant are under construction, the water for which is to
+be brought along the mountainside, a part of the way through tunnels. To
+dig these, "experienced Igorot tunnel makers from Benguet were
+imported," who are getting along amicably with the Moros.
+
+At Jolo, or Sulu, we were again greeted by a Moro fleet and some diving
+girls and boys.
+
+This seemed the culmination of the picturesque in our trip. The
+mountains of the island are not high but rather cone-shaped, and as we
+approached the town we could see behind it the forested slopes of steep
+Bud Dajo, where the great fight took place in 1906 and many Moros were
+killed in the crater top of the volcano, to which they had retreated,
+and from which they challenged and threatened the American forces. It is
+an island of fierce, piratical Moros, and even the Americans had not
+tried to do much there. It was dangerous to go outside the little walled
+town at all, and all the natives coming in were searched for their
+weapons, which were taken away at the gates. Only a few months before, a
+fanatic Moro tried to attack the gate guard, but fortunately was killed
+before fatally injuring any one.
+
+[Illustration: MORO BOATS.]
+
+The walled town is a most artistic little Spanish place, built once
+upon a time by the exiled Spanish Governor Asturia, who made it a gem of
+a town, with small balustraded plazas and a hanging-garden sea wall, and
+a miniature wall with battlements and gates, and streets set out with
+shading trees. The pretty Officers' Club and quarters overhung the wall.
+The gates of the town are closed at night, and all the natives must
+leave for their houses outside before the "retreat," but there is a
+native market and a town built out on piles over the water, which we
+visited. We drove out to a plain, palm-fringed and backed by mountains,
+that overlooked the sea, where there was a review of the cavalry and a
+large company of mounted Moros, who carried many American flags among
+their waving banners. Within the walls, in a grandstand in the little
+plaza, where the natives thronged, there was a meeting between the
+Secretary and the chief datos; and the Hadji, who had been Vizier of the
+Sultan, made a wise speech, full of promise of loyalty. Our Governor had
+won the good will of the people about him and the Hadji said that when
+his people were certain of our good intentions they would come in
+willingly and be loyal--but, for so many years, they had been misled by
+previous rulers.
+
+We amused ourselves by going to Chino Charlie's and buying lanterns,
+and lunched at the Officers' Club. Afterward we went out on the pier
+inhabited by the Chinese and looked for pearls--Jolo pearls are
+famous--but we saw none of real value. We watched the Chinamen drying
+copra, and went through their market, where water slugs were for sale.
+Finally, we sailed across the bay. Our visit to the Moros was full of
+colour to the end, for the sun was setting gorgeously as we put out to
+sea.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER X
+
+JOURNEY'S END
+
+
+The little coral island of Bancoran lies in the middle of the Sulu Sea,
+quite outside the usual routes of travel. It is inhabited only by birds,
+and people seldom or never go there. But we wanted to obtain, if we
+could, some new species of gulls or terns for the Bureau of Science at
+Manila, and also to enjoy the mysterious sea gardens which are found
+among the southern reefs. Just after tiffin the island was sighted,
+lying quite alone by itself in milky green water. The ship stopped and
+launches were dropped overboard, and a glass-bottomed boat which had
+been brought along for our use.
+
+The afternoon was ideal--the sky blue and fleeced with snowy clouds
+piled high, while the intense sun shining on the water flashed back a
+hundred shades of blue and green and mauve. On one side of the island,
+which floated like an emerald among sapphires, outstanding rocks chafed
+the seas into foaming surf, while on the other a long, narrow beach lay
+shimmering, pale yellow in the sunlight. The island itself was covered
+with a thick jungle of trees, which were dotted with thousands of
+resting birds. As we drew nearer they saw us and were afraid, rising and
+soaring and circling in the clear, pure air, and crying out at us. Flock
+after flock of sea fowl flew wonderingly over our small craft, their
+white breasts tinted green with the light reflected from the water.
+
+It was like a Robinson Crusoe island, lost out there in the lonely sea.
+But there were shells of huge turtles, and bones of birds, which
+suggested that sometime a feast must have been held there, so it was not
+wholly undiscovered and unexplored. Among the great roots of the trees
+the birds had built their nests from leaves. The eggs in some of them
+were white and about the size of hens' eggs. Several varieties of
+boobies and terns were found, some brown with green-blue eyes, others
+ivory-white. A few specimens were shot, and one or two were taken back
+alive to the _Rizal_ for the museum. Previous to this visit the
+ornithologists had never known to what islands the boobies and frigate
+birds came to nest, although the scientists had long been searching for
+the place, so the expedition was well worth while.
+
+But the sea gardens interested me more than the birds or even the
+island. If Alice could have had her choice in entering Wonderland, she
+would surely have selected a doorway leading through a glass-bottomed
+boat, instead of dropping down a rabbit's hole. Beneath the water, which
+was crystal clear, we could see a strange country with new flowers and
+peculiar creatures. Where it was sandy and shallow we saw below us
+fields of green sea grass, on which the fairies must surely have used
+lawn-mowers, it was so neatly kept.
+
+Interspersed among the fields were beds of feathery, lace-like
+vegetation unnamed in the language of our party. Passing one expanse
+after another of this submarine pasturage, we saw depressions in the
+coral, where tiny fishes played or unknown water creatures had
+established a little world for themselves and were living in its narrow
+confines quite unconscious of what went on in the surrounding vastness.
+
+Drifting on into deeper water, we came to a ghost-like gray world of
+curls and feathers, trembling with life, a forest of pale trees and
+swaying brown ones, of high hills and dark valleys, made by coral reefs.
+Pretty rock gardens came into view, where there were cabbages with blue
+edges, sea anemones and purple fans, a huge toadstool, a giant fungus,
+and a cactus plant--at least, that is what they looked like to us. There
+were rainbow shells, too, half hidden, and great blue starfish clinging
+to the rocks. In and out among the sponges and the brown coral branches,
+which were so much like antlers, swam curious fishes. Such gorgeous
+colours--so vivid and in such brilliant combinations! Some were big
+green fellows, with needle noses; others were electric blue and silver;
+there were black and yellow ones, too, and striped fishes that looked
+like sly prisoners dodging their keepers.[27]
+
+[Illustration: ONE DAY'S CATCH OF FISH.]
+
+We passed the greater part of the afternoon marooned on this far-away
+island, some of us going bathing off the shallow, sandy beaches in the
+clear water. As evening came on we regretfully left the fairy island of
+Bancoran, and sailed away by the rising moon.
+
+The Penal Colony on Palawan, which I have described in another chapter,
+was our next point of interest. We left there behind schedule and met a
+stronger current than we had expected, sweeping down the coast of Panay,
+so that it was no wonder that we were late in approaching Iloilo. This
+was especially unfortunate, for very generous preparations had been made
+there for the Secretary's reception and an interesting series of events
+arranged, all of which was upset by the delay.
+
+It was sunset when we finally sighted the town. As we cruised up the
+steeply palisaded coast, with the low-lying foreground of Panay on the
+other side, backed by its fine ranges of mountains, the effects were
+most beautiful. The old Spanish fort on its point looked mysterious in
+the afterglow, and the skies were magnificently alight. A fleet of much
+beflagged launches and steamers came out to meet the Secretary,
+whistling a welcome, and turning, escorted the _Rizal_.
+
+Next to Manila, Iloilo is the most important port in the Islands, and
+has a better climate than its rival. The people here are supposed to be
+wealthier and more aristocratic than elsewhere. The Payne bill, which
+had been in operation only a short time, had brought such a return of
+prosperity to the land, and especially to the planters of this fertile
+province, that they were all very enthusiastic about Americans, and did
+all they could to express their gratitude.
+
+We were invited for dinner at half after seven, but it was an hour later
+before we sat down to the long table in the large and rather empty room,
+with its handsome Venetian mirrors at either end, and its sliding
+shutters wide open to the night. There were no ladies present except
+those of our party. We could never tell how things would be
+arranged,--sometimes there would be Filipina ladies, and sometimes there
+would not; sometimes the ladies would all be placed together at one side
+of the table, and again they would be seated next to the men. While
+waiting for dinner to be announced, we sat about in an airy room, with
+half-dressed servants peeping in at us, and a phonograph playing
+Caruso records.
+
+[Illustration: VIEW IN ILOILO, ILOILO, SHOWING HIGH SCHOOL GROUNDS.]
+
+After dinner we had a long drive out through the town, which seemed
+quite business-like and prosperous. They had rebuilt some of the fine,
+large, wide-open houses, most of which had been destroyed by the
+insurrectos. (On the nearby island of Negros, we were told, there were
+many fine _haciendas_ with great houses full of carved work which I was
+sorry not to see.) Passing through suburbs of nipa houses standing up on
+their stilts in the moonlight, we came to a plaza gaily illuminated, and
+to our destination, a mansion approached by a triumphal arch. In the
+best houses the living rooms are on the second floor, just as in the
+poorer ones they are raised above the ground on stilts. So here we went
+upstairs to a great room hung with festoons of flags, where the little
+women in their bright and varied dresses passing and repassing made a
+gay scene. It was here, indeed, that we saw some of the prettiest and
+best dressed women whom we met on our trip.
+
+Most of the following day was spent cruising along the coast of Panay,
+passing between its fine outlying islands, which reminded us of the
+Inland Sea of Japan. In the afternoon we came to the entrance of the
+river on which Capiz is located. The Secretary crossed overland on the
+first train to run on the new railway, in order to drive in the silver
+spikes that completed the line.
+
+No dinners had been planned there for those of us who had come by ship,
+so we did not start up river until half after eight. Capiz is only four
+miles from the mouth, but they were the longest miles we had ever
+experienced, for by some mistake the pilot did not arrive, so we went in
+a _Rizal_ launch without one. We just struggled along as well as we
+could in the dark till the moon came up, which only mystified us the
+more with its deceptive shadows. Half a dozen times we ran deep into mud
+banks, and the sailormen were forced to jump overboard and shove us off.
+They did not appear to enjoy doing this, and no wonder, for it was a
+crocodile river.
+
+Swarms of fireflies, which gathered on favourite trees, made a very
+Christmas-like effect with their throbbing lights. They were lovely,
+too, in the dark shore shadows, and made sparkling reflections in the
+black river stream. Watching them we could almost forget our troubles.
+
+[Illustration: THE OLD AUGUSTINIAN CHURCH, MANILA.]
+
+Finally, after much winding round and backing off, we turned a bend and
+saw a line of little twinkling lights strung along the shore and on
+floating barges, giving quite a Venetian effect and showing us the town
+by their reflection. Landing, we walked across the grassy square to the
+provincial building, with its open courtyards, where there was to be a
+ball. We danced a rigodon as usual, and stopped late with the Governor
+General, who liked to show his interest in these functions, of which the
+Filipinos think so much. There were three bands, which vied with each
+other for applause.
+
+Next morning we got away early on our last leg for Manila and the end of
+our never-to-be-forgotten journey in the Land of Pine and Palm--that
+far-away, unfamiliar country where your head gets full of strange
+thoughts, your body of queer feelings, and your heart has great
+longings.
+
+We crowded everything we could into those few last days in Manila, for
+we were loath to think of leaving anything undone. Besides packing and
+shopping, there were teas and dinners, and the army and navy reception.
+This was lovely, for it was held in the courtyard filled with trees
+which were hung with dim lanterns. The good looking officers with their
+white duck uniforms and brass buttons added to the attractiveness of the
+scene. The men of our party were even busier than we, for they had
+several banquets to which we were not invited. In my husband's journal I
+find the chronicle of a typical day. After describing the events of a
+busy morning, he says: "In the afternoon, there was a reception to meet
+the constabulary, at four; the opening of the new hospital, a most
+complete and wonderful one, at half after four; the laying of the corner
+stone at five for the new hotel, which is a very ambitious project and
+will make all the difference in the world as far as touring in the
+Philippines is concerned; in the evening, a dinner, and after that a
+reception, and a dance."
+
+Manila seemed more picturesque, and to have even more atmosphere, as I
+came to know it better. The old walls and churches and plazas and
+corners and quarters; the Pasig with its cascos and bancas plying about;
+the narrow streets winding through the suburbs, with old moss-covered
+walls, and peeps of tangled gardens within, and balustraded terraces,
+and the bowers of the pink blossoming "chain of love." It is indeed
+well-named the Pearl of the Orient.
+
+
+
+
+BIBLIOGRAPHY
+
+
+ATKINSON, F. W.: The Philippine Islands
+
+ALEXANDER, MARY C.: The Story of Hawaii
+
+ALEXANDER, W. D.: Brief History of the Hawaiian People
+
+AMERICAN GIRL, AN: Seven Weeks in Hawaii
+
+BANCROFT, HUBERT H.: The New Pacific
+
+BRIGGS, CHARLES W.: Progressive Philippines
+
+BLAIR, EMMA H.: The Philippine Islands
+
+BARRON, DAVID: History of the Philippines
+
+BISHOP, ISABELLA L.: The Hawaiian Archipelago
+
+BLACKMAN, WILLIAM F.: The Making of Hawaii
+
+COAN, TITUS: Life in Hawaii
+
+COAN, T. M.: Climate of Hawaii
+
+---- Hawaiian Ethnography
+
+CASTLE, WILLIAM R., JR.: Hawaii Past and Present
+
+CHAMBERS, H. E.: Constitutional History of Hawaii
+
+CROW, CARL: America and the Philippines
+
+CHAMBERLIN, FREDERICK: The Philippine Problem
+
+DAUNCEY, MRS. CAMPBELL: The Philippines
+
+DEVENS, JOHN B.: An Observer in the Philippines
+
+DAY, MRS. E. F.: Princess of Manoa
+
+EMERSON, N. B.: Unwritten Literature of Hawaii
+
+FEE, MARY H.: A Woman's Impressions of the Philippines
+
+FOREMAN, J.: The Philippine Islands
+
+FORNANDER, ABRAHAM: The Polynesian Race
+
+HAWAIIAN ANNUAL for 1915
+
+HAWAIIAN ISLANDS, Report of Commission of Agriculture and Forestry
+
+HAWAII, a Primer--answers to queries
+
+HITCHCOCK, C. H.: Hawaii and its Volcanoes
+
+JERNEGAN, PRESCOTT F.: A Short History of the Philippines
+
+JORDAN AND EDERMANN: Aquatic Resources of Hawaii
+
+LIBRARY OF CONGRESS: List of books on Hawaii
+
+LINDSEY, FORBES: The Philippines
+
+LE ROY, JAMES A.: Philippine Life in Town and Country
+
+---- Americans in the Philippines
+
+LAWRENCE, MARY S.: Old Time Hawaiians and their Wok
+
+LYMAN, H. M.: Hawaiian Yesterdays
+
+MOSES, MRS. M. E. B.: Unofficial Letters of an Official's Wife
+
+MAUS, L. M.: An Army Officer on Leave in Japan
+
+MUSICK, JOHN R.: Hawaii: our New Possession
+
+MATHER, HELEN: One Summer in Hawaii
+
+ROBINSON, ALBERT G.: The War and the People
+
+STODDARD, C. W.: South-sea Idyls
+
+SAWYER, FREDERICK H.: The Inhabitants of the Philippines
+
+STEVENS, J. E.: Yesterdays in the Philippines
+
+TAFT, MRS. WILLIAM H.: Recollections of Full Years
+
+WESTERVELT, W. E.: Legends of Old Honolulu
+
+WORCESTER, DEAN C.: The Philippines, Past and Present
+
+WILLIAMS, D. R.: The Odyssey of the Philippine Commission
+
+YOUNG, LUCIEN: The Real Hawaii
+
+
+
+
+INDEX
+
+
+  A
+
+  Agriculture and Forestry, Bureau of, 99
+
+  Aguinaldo, Emilio, 159, 173-175, 181-183, 188-193, 195-196, 199, 204
+
+  Aldecoa and Company, 265
+
+  Alden, C. S. (quoted), 71
+
+  Alexander Young Hotel, 20
+
+  Amburayan, 270
+
+  Anderson, General Thomas, 72, 145, 180, 187, 192
+    Captain Tom, 145, 296
+
+  Andrews, Louis, 62
+
+  Antipolo, 320
+
+  Apayao, 270
+
+  Archbishop of Manila, 166
+
+  Armstrong, Fort, 25
+    General, 62
+
+  Army and Navy Club, 146, 296
+
+  Assembly, 125, 138, 209, 215-217, 236
+
+  Asturia, Governor, 351
+
+  Atimonan, 307, 308
+
+  Augustinian Church, 129
+
+
+  B
+
+  Babuyan Islands, the, 261
+
+  Baginda, Raja, 326
+
+  Bagobos, the, 257, 339, 345, 348
+
+  Baguio, 213, 246-249, 251, 253, 272
+
+  Bahr, Abu, 326
+
+  Balangiga, 317
+
+  Balintan Channel, 268
+
+  Bancoran, 353, 357
+
+  Bandholtz, General, 309
+
+  Barry, Lieutenant, 340
+
+  Bashee Rocks, 261, 262
+
+  Batan (islands), 261, 262, 264, 269
+
+  Bates, General, 198
+
+  Bauang, 247
+
+  Bautilan, 328
+
+  Bay, Lake of, 131
+
+  Beacom, Major, 335
+
+  Beardsley, Admiral and Mrs., 16
+
+  Benguet, 270
+    Road, 247, 249
+
+  Berger, Captain, 14, 74
+
+  Biacnabato, 174
+    Treaty of, 175
+
+  Bilibid Prison, 237-239, 241, 242, 313
+
+  Bill of Rights, 58
+
+  Bingham, Hiram, 10
+
+  Bishop, Bernice Pauahi, 11, 72
+    Hon. Charles R., 12
+    Museum, 11
+
+  Black Crook, 249
+
+  Blayney, Professor Thomas
+    Lindsey (quoted), 220
+
+  Boca Chica, 123
+
+  Boca Grande, 178
+
+  Bohol, 318
+
+  Boki, Chief, 10
+
+  Bolinao Light, 274
+
+  Bonifacio, Andres, 171, 174
+
+  Bontoc, 229, 236, 270, 287-289
+
+  Book, Captain, 16
+
+  Botel Tobago, 262
+
+  Brent, Bishop, 132
+
+  Brigham, Professor, 11
+
+  _Britannia_, the, 51
+
+  Bryan, William Jennings, 199, 206-207
+
+  Bud Dajo, 350
+
+  Buencamino, 183
+
+
+  C
+
+  Cagayan, 131
+
+  Calkins, Mr., 309
+
+  Capiz, 360
+
+  Carter, General W. H., 26
+    Charles L., 78
+    George R., 78, 79
+    Mr. George, 5
+
+  Castle, Mr., 4, 14, 112
+    Mrs., 14
+
+  _Castilla_, the, 179
+
+  Catbalogan, 317
+
+  Cavite, 138, 166, 173, 179, 181, 182, 204
+
+  Cebu, 150, 152, 318, 320, 322
+
+  Celebes Sea, 340
+
+  Cervantes, 283, 284
+
+  Charcca, the, 317
+
+  _Charleston_, the, 269
+
+  Chinese, the (in the Philippines), 159
+
+  Chino Charlie, 352
+
+  Cleghorn, Governor, 15
+
+  Cleveland, President, 77
+
+  College of Medicine and Surgery, 141
+
+  Commission, the (first), 207
+    Commission, the second (or Taft), 207, 209-211, 215, 216, 219
+
+  Constabulary Band, 125, 137
+
+  Cook, Captain (James), 35, 37, 48, 49, 114, 115, 150
+
+  Corregidor, 123, 138, 178, 296
+
+  Cotobato (river), 340
+    town, 341
+
+  Cotton, Captain, 16
+
+  Cromer, Lord, 221
+
+  _Crook_, the, 273, 274
+
+  Culion, 232-235
+
+
+  D
+
+  Dalupiri, 265
+
+  Damien, Father, 72
+
+  Dampier, William, 152, 262, 327
+
+  Darrach, Marshall, 139
+
+  Data, Mount, 285
+
+  Daughters of Hawaii, the, 22
+
+  Davis, Isaac, 50
+
+  DeRussy, Fort, 25
+
+  Dewey, Admiral, 177-181, 184, 186, 192
+    (quoted), 190
+
+  _Dewey_, the (dock), 273
+
+  Diamond Head, 4, 19, 25
+
+  Dickinson, Mr. (Secretary of War), 20, 125, 126, 127, 131, 136, 139,
+  145, 146, 232, 252, 272, 273, 277, 278, 279, 295, 299, 325, 337, 341
+    Mrs., 125, 127, 136, 139, 140, 145, 251, 252, 308, 336
+
+  Din, Alimund, 328
+
+  Ditch Trail, 107
+
+  Dole, Rev. Daniel, 8
+    Sanford B., 8, 9, 16, 77-79
+
+  Dominis, John C., 76
+
+  Doyle, Sergeant, 278
+
+  Drake, Sir Francis, 151
+
+  Duvall, General, 146, 273
+    Mrs., 146
+
+
+  E
+
+  Early, 275
+
+  Education, Bureau of, 248
+
+  Edwards, General, 131, 272, 300
+
+  El Chico de Cagayan River, 287
+
+  El Fraile, 178
+
+  Emerson (quoted), 42
+
+  Emma, Queen, 65, 66
+
+  Escolta, the, 130
+
+  Ethnology, Bureau of, 141
+
+
+  F
+
+  "Father Alexander," 106
+
+  "Filipino Republic," the, 190
+
+  Filipinos, 124, 136, 137, 171, 183, 185-189, 193, 195-196, 201, 215,
+  219, 222, 241, 245, 298, 342
+
+  Finch, Captain, 3
+
+  Forbes, Governor General Cameron, 125, 127, 131, 139, 212-215, 221,
+  239, 243, 248, 272, 276, 277, 283, 317, 361
+
+  Fornander, A. (quoted), 42
+
+  Frear, Judge Walter F., 80
+
+  French Frigatis Shoal, 66
+
+  Funston (General), 25, 199
+
+  Furness, Dr., 4
+
+
+  G
+
+  Gallman, 275, 280
+
+  Gilbert, Vice-Governor, 254
+
+  Gimbungen (dato), 342
+
+  Government Dormitory for Girls, 140
+
+  Government Laboratories, Bureau of, 141
+
+  Green Lake, 112
+
+  Gridley, Captain, 3, 179
+
+  Guam, 72, 119, 199, 262
+
+
+  H
+
+  Halawa, 63
+
+  Haleakala, 107
+
+  Halemaumau, 60, 110
+
+  Hanalei River, 115
+
+  Harrison, Governor General, 212, 213, 219
+
+  Hauula, 103
+
+  Hawaii (island of), 8, 39, 82
+    Republic of, 78
+
+  Hawaiian Commercial Sugar Company, 81
+
+  Hawaiians (ethnology of), 29
+
+  Heiberg, Major, 343
+
+  Heiser, Dr., 221, 230-232, 234-236, 323
+
+  Hilgard, Captain, 251
+
+  Hilo, 60, 62, 91, 102, 108, 110, 112
+
+  Hina, 35
+
+  Hoapili, 62
+
+  Honaunau, 113
+
+  Honolulu, 4, 5, 6, 9, 10, 21, 25, 65, 67, 72, 102, 103, 104, 181
+
+  Hualalai, 113
+
+
+  I
+
+  Iao Valley, 107
+
+  Ide, H. C., 208
+
+  Ifugao, 270
+    Ifugaos, the, 271, 277, 280-283, 289, 293
+
+  Igorots, the, 251, 253, 255, 277, 286, 288-290, 294, 337
+
+  Ilocanos, the, 275
+
+  Iloilo, 357-358
+
+  Ilongots, the, 255, 258-259
+
+  Immigration, Bureau of, 100
+
+  Inter-Island Navigation Company, 104
+    boats, 112
+
+  Internal Revenue, Bureau of, 221
+
+  Iraya, Mt., 269
+
+  Irwin, Mr., 4
+
+  Isabella II, Queen, 164
+
+  Isola Grande, 273, 274
+
+  Itbayat Island, 265
+
+  Iwahig River, 240
+
+  Iyeyasu, Shogun, 156
+
+
+  J
+
+  Japanese-American Citizens' Association, 116
+
+  Japanese (women laborers), 83-85
+    as Hawaiians, 116-118
+
+  Jesuits, the, 164, 165, 166
+
+  John Hay, Camp, 248, 251
+
+  Jones Bill, the, 222
+
+  Jota, the, 317
+
+
+  K
+
+  Kaawaloa, 114
+
+  Kahanamoku, Duke, 91
+
+  Kahului, 102
+
+  Kailua, 53, 114
+
+  Kaiulani, Princess, 77
+
+  Kakuhihewa, 6
+
+  Kalaimoku, 56
+
+  Kalakaua, King, 9, 73-75, 81, 118
+    Prince, 118
+
+  Kalamba, 131, 204
+
+  Kalanianaole, Prince Jonah Kuhio, 79
+
+  Kalanikupule, 22
+
+  Kalinga, 270
+
+  Kalingas, the, 271, 272, 289-292
+
+  Kaliuwaa, falls of, 103
+
+  Kamehameha I (the Great), 6, 11, 22, 48, 50-54, 106
+    heiau of, 112
+    birthplace of, 114
+
+  Kamehameha II, 54, 55, 57
+
+  Kamehameha III, 6, 12, 57, 59, 65
+
+  Kamehameha IV, 65
+
+  Kamehameha V, 72
+
+  Kamehameha, Fort, 25
+
+  Kamehameha School, 12
+
+  Kamehamehas, the, 31
+
+  Kanaloa, 34, 39
+
+  Kane, 34, 39, 41, 42
+
+  Kapiolani, 59, 60, 74
+
+  Katipunan, the, 169, 170-173
+
+  Kau, 112, 113
+
+  Kauai, 8, 71, 82, 115
+
+  Kawaiahao Church, 9
+
+  Kawaihae, 112
+
+  Keanonako, 12, 13
+
+  Keawe-Mauhili, 60
+
+  Keithley, Camp, 325, 334
+
+  Kilauea, 51, 60, 66, 104, 109, 112
+
+  Kinau, 12
+
+  Kohala, 114
+    ditch, 114
+
+  Kona, 91, 112, 113, 114
+
+  Konia, 12
+
+  Kotta, 297
+
+  Koxinga, 158
+
+  Ku, 39
+
+  Kuhio, Prince, 118
+
+
+  L
+
+  _Lackawanna_, the, 66, 67, 68, 70, 71
+
+  Ladrone Islands, the, 116, 150
+
+  Lahaina, 106
+
+  Laka, 40, 41, 42, 49
+
+  Lamb, Mr., 240, 244
+    Mrs., 244
+
+  Lanao, Lake, 325, 334
+
+  Lawton, General, 195
+
+  Legarda, Mr., 131, 298
+
+  Legaspi, Miguel Lopez de, 152, 153, 158
+    Legaspi, 317
+
+  Lepanto, 270
+
+  Liholiho, 56
+
+  Liliuokalani, Queen, 9, 12, 75-78
+
+  Li Ma Hong, 156
+
+  Lono, 39, 49
+
+  Los Banos, 131
+
+  Lucena, 298, 302, 307
+
+  Lunalilo Home, 12
+    Prince, 73
+
+  Luneta, the, 126, 146, 185
+
+  Luzon, 133, 172, 176, 196, 198, 245, 257, 261, 271, 275, 297
+
+
+  M
+
+  MacArthur, General, 194, 196, 198
+
+  Macfarlane, Mrs., 15
+
+  Macomb, General M. M., 25
+
+  Magellan, 150, 151
+
+  Makadum, 326
+
+  Makapuu Point Light, 21
+
+  Malabang, 340
+
+  Malacañan, Palace of, 126, 136
+
+  Malays, 149, 154, 245, 326
+
+  Malolos, 191, 195
+
+  Mandi, Dato, 346
+
+  Mangyans, 241
+
+  Manila, 123, 124, 128, 152, 156, 157, 159, 160, 166, 171, 173, 186,
+  193, 199, 222, 227, 249, 314, 315, 328
+    sight-seeing in, 128-147, 361-362
+
+  Manila Bay, 3, 123, 138, 157, 178
+    Battle of, 177, 184
+
+  Manila-Dagupan Railroad, 315
+
+  Manilibang, Dato, 337
+
+  Manobos, the, 339, 343, 345
+
+  _Marian_, the, 16
+
+  Mariveles, 123
+
+  Marshall Islands, 116
+
+  Maui Island, 8, 40, 44, 51, 62, 81, 82, 106
+    East, 107
+    demi-god, 35, 40
+
+  Mauna Kea, 108
+
+  Mauna Loa, 108, 109, 113
+
+  Mayon, Mount, 308
+
+  _McCulloch_, the, 178
+
+  McKimmon, Father, 314
+
+  McKinley, Fort, 132, 220
+    President, 183, 200, 207, 209
+
+  Menehunes, the, 116
+
+  Merritt, General, 183, 192
+
+  Mexico, 152, 153, 156, 157, 204
+    Mexicans, 192
+
+  Midway Island (Brooks), 67, 69, 70, 123
+
+  Mindanao, 150, 166, 171, 322, 325-327, 331, 339, 340
+
+  Mines, Bureau of, 141
+
+  Mirador, 253
+
+  Mitchell, Major, 266
+
+  Moanalua, 25
+
+  Molokai, 8, 63, 73, 105
+
+  Montojo, Admiral, 179
+
+  Moros, the, 124, 150, 171, 209, 222, 241, 245, 322, 325-339, 341, 342,
+  345-348, 350-352
+
+  Moro Province, 346
+
+  Moses, Professor, 208
+
+  Mountain Province, the, 270, 288
+
+  Musick (quoted), 18
+
+
+  N
+
+  Namaka, 23
+
+  Nangnui, Hadji, 347, 351
+
+  Negritos, 149, 253, 256-257
+
+  _Negros_, the, 295
+    island of, 359
+
+  Neumann, Paul, 15
+
+  "Noli Me Tangere" ("The Social Cancer"), 170
+
+  Nozaleda, Archbishop, 184
+
+  Nueva Viscaya, 258
+
+  Nuuanu, battle of, 22
+    valley, 23, 51
+
+
+  O
+
+  Oahu, 4, 5, 6, 8, 18, 25, 32, 51, 52, 82, 88, 103, 119
+    College, 8, 9
+
+  Obookiah (Opukahaia), 55
+
+  Ocampo, Pablo, 204
+
+  "Occupation Day," 296
+
+  Olongapo, 273
+
+  _Olympia_, the, 4, 178, 179
+
+  Osmeña, Mr., 298
+
+  Otis, General, 192, 194, 198
+
+  Overton, Camp, 325
+
+
+  P
+
+  Paahana, 93
+
+  Paao, 31, 37
+
+  Pack, Governor, 200
+
+  Pagsanjan, 131
+
+  Paki, 12
+
+  Pakuanui, 23
+
+  Palawan, 239, 240, 357
+
+  Pali, the, 22, 23, 24, 52, 103
+
+  Panama Canal, 100, 119
+
+  Panay, 357, 359
+
+  Papa, 5, 30
+
+  Parker, Sam, 15
+
+  Pasig River, 127, 128, 225
+
+  Patterson, Admiral, 160
+
+  Paulet, Lord George, 61
+
+  Payne Bill, 358
+
+  Pearl Harbour, 21, 22, 24, 32
+
+  Pele, 37, 40, 43, 44, 51, 60, 110
+
+  Perkins, Commodore, 71
+
+  Pershing, General, 349
+
+  _Philadelphia_, the, 16
+
+  Philip II, 151
+
+  Philip III, 177
+
+  Philip V, 328
+
+  Philippine General Hospital, 141
+
+  Piang, Dato, 326, 342
+
+  Pili, 31
+
+  Pinkham, Governor, 80
+
+  Plaza McKinley, 129
+
+  Poison God, the, 105
+
+  Polo Club, 131
+
+  Polynesia, 30, 39, 40
+
+  Polynesians, 29, 30
+
+  Puerto Princessa, 240
+
+  Punahou, 8
+
+  Punchbowl, 4, 19, 20, 103
+
+
+  Q
+
+  Queen's Hospital, 9, 65
+
+  Quezon, Mr., 298, 301
+
+
+  R
+
+  Reciprocity Treaty, 24, 73, 81, 100
+
+  _Reina Christina_, the, 179
+
+  Reynolds, Captain William, 69
+
+  Rivera, Primo de, 175
+
+  Rizal, 131, 170-172
+
+  Rizal, the, 296, 308, 309, 318, 322, 343, 354, 358
+
+  Rojesvenski, Admiral, 269
+
+  Root, Elihu, 300
+
+  Royal Hawaiian Band, 14, 74
+
+  Royal Hawaiian Hotel, the, 6
+
+  Ruger, Fort, 25
+
+  Russell, Sturgis, Oliphant and Company, 308
+
+  Ruth, Princess, 81
+
+
+  S
+
+  Sacaluran, Dato, 347
+
+  _Saginaw_, the, 71
+
+  Samar, 317
+
+  Sandwich Islands, 49
+
+  San Lazaro, 157, 227, 231
+
+  San Mateo, 195
+
+  San Miguel, 130
+
+  Santa Cruz, 195
+
+  Santa Maria Cristina, 334
+
+  Santiago, Fort, 172
+
+  Sargent, Major, 340
+
+  School of Arts and Trades, the, 312
+
+  Science, Bureau of, 141, 142, 353
+
+  Seaman's Act, 86
+
+  Sepulchre, Padre, 286
+
+  Sewall, Mr., 16
+
+  Shafter, Fort, 25
+
+  Shark King (story of), 45-47
+
+  Sibley, Miss, 133
+
+  Sicard, Lieutenant-Commander, 71
+
+  Sokabe, Rev. S. (quoted), 117
+
+  Spain, 155, 156, 158, 159, 167, 168, 175, 218
+
+  Spreckles, Mr. Claus, 81
+
+  Stevens, Mr. (Minister to Hawaii), 76
+
+  Stoddard, Charles W. (quoted), 24
+
+  Strong, Dr. Richard P., 229
+
+  Subig Bay, 178, 273
+
+  Suez Canal, the, 156, 164
+
+  Sugar Planters' Association, 99
+
+  Sulu, 326, 350
+    Sea, 322, 353
+    Sultan of, 326
+
+  Sy Cip, Mr. Alfonso Tarata, 320
+
+
+  T
+
+  Taft, President, 126, 137, 207-209
+
+  Tagalogs, the (Tagals), 139, 165, 167
+
+  Tagudin, 274, 276, 295
+
+  Talbot, Lieutenant, 71
+
+  Tantalus, Mt., 19
+
+  Thatcher, Rear Admiral, 67
+
+  Thomas, Admiral, 61
+
+  _Times_, the Manila, 216, 349
+
+  Tingians, the, 256, 257
+
+  Tobaco, 309
+
+  Topside, 249
+
+  Trail and Mountain Club, 103
+
+  Treaty of Paris, the (c. 1762), 159
+    1899, 206, 207
+
+  Twain, Mark (quoted), 8, 105
+
+
+  V
+
+  Vancouver, Captain George, 50, 51
+
+  Villaloboz, Ruy Lopez de, 151
+
+  Visayas, the, 176
+
+
+  W
+
+  Wahaula (temple of), 37
+
+  Wahiawa, 103
+
+  Waialua, 92, 95, 97, 98
+
+  Waianae, 82
+
+  Waikiki, 10, 15, 17, 20, 25, 103
+
+  Wailuku, 106
+
+  Waimanu (valley), 115
+
+  Waimea, 115
+    Gulch, 115
+
+  Waipio (valley), 115
+
+  Wakea, 4, 5, 30
+
+  Wekolo Pond, 32
+
+  Welles, Mr., 67
+
+  White, Dr., 253
+
+  Whitmarsh, Mrs., 250
+    Mr., 251
+
+  Widemann, Judge, 4, 14, 82
+
+  Wilcox, Robert W., 73
+    rebellion, 73
+
+  Wilder, Mrs., 15
+
+  Wilson, President, 79, 212
+
+  Wisser, General J. P., 26
+
+  Wood, General, 325
+
+  Worcester, Mr. Dean C., 141, 142, 208, 213, 218, 228, 248, 272, 286, 300
+    (quoted), 167, 217, 221, 257, 292, 348, 356
+
+  Wright, Luke E., 208
+
+
+  Y
+
+  Ynock, 342
+
+  Yongs, Mr., 160
+
+  Young, Captain Lucien, 74
+
+  Young, John, 50
+
+
+  Z
+
+  Zamboanga, 331, 343, 349
+
+
+
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+
+[1] When the mamo became rare the natives began to substitute the light
+yellow feathers growing under the wings of the _o-o_. This bird is now
+extinct.
+
+[2] In the first Reciprocity Treaty with Hawaii, which was signed in
+Grant's administration, there was no reference to Pearl Harbour. It was
+when the treaty was renewed in a revised form during the administration
+of President Harrison, that Hawaii ceded Pearl Harbour to the United
+States as a naval base.
+
+[3] General M. M. Macomb was in command from 1911 to 1913, General
+Frederick Funston during 1914, General W. H. Carter followed and General
+J. P. Wisser is there in command to-day.
+
+[4] Even to a late date this custom has been known in civilized
+countries. In France a figure of one's enemy was modeled in wax and was
+slowly melted before the fire while being "prayed to death."
+
+[5] The legend which ascribes the creation of man to Kane is only one of
+many Hawaiian creation myths, in which other gods figure as fathers of
+the human race.
+
+[6] A. Fornander, "The Polynesian Race."
+
+[7] Guam belonged to Spain until Colonel Thomas Anderson stopped there
+on his way to the Philippines with the first United States troops. The
+Spanish governor had not even heard that war was declared, and when the
+ships fired, he thought it was a salute in his honour. He surrendered
+the fifteen small islands; fourteen were given back to Spain in the
+Treaty of Paris and they were sold to Germany. Guam has an excellent
+harbour. It is under the control of the United States Navy at present.
+Marines are stationed there.
+
+[8] The party at present in power in the United States appears to have
+given very little attention to the Islands, except as a source of income
+for deserving Democrats, if we may judge from the latest Democratic
+platform. That document contains the promise, "as soon as practicable,
+to give a territorial form of government to Hawaii." For eighteen years
+they have had it!
+
+[9] When Mr. Dole's term as United States judge expired a few months
+ago, President Wilson refused to reappoint him, though all Hawaii
+petitioned for him. The position was given to a Democrat.
+
+[10] Castle says Halemaumau really means, "home of the _Maumau_ fern,"
+this fern having a leaf much like the curled and twisted lava in shape.
+
+[11] A trip to the Lake of Bay should be taken and to the fertile valley
+of the Cagayan. The gorge of Pagsanjan is very beautiful. Los Banos is
+an old bathing establishment not far from Kalamba, where Rizal was born.
+It is part of a day's trip from Manila to this hot mineral spring, which
+was a fashionable resort in days gone by. Now an American military
+hospital has been built there.
+
+[12] The American coloured troops in the Philippines certainly deserve
+mention. They were among the best fighters we sent out there.
+
+[13] Koxinga was really one of the most noted characters of the Orient
+at that time. He was the son of a Japanese mother and a Chinese father,
+and seldom has China had a man to compare with him in courage,
+enterprise and ability. At the age of twenty-two, he held one of the
+highest military commands in his country. With his courage and natural
+ability it was his purpose to carve out a kingdom for himself. Being as
+shrewd as he was bold, Koxinga made the acquaintance of a Dominican
+friar in Amoy, whom he converted into an ambassador and sent to Manila.
+Fortunately for the Spaniards, Koxinga's career was cut short by his
+early death, in 1662, while still under forty years of age, and just as
+he was making preparations to invade the Philippines.
+
+[14] To-day Aguinaldo seems to be a thoroughly "reconstructed rebel," as
+this incident told by General Anderson's daughter shows:
+
+"While spending the day with friends who have a sugar estate near
+Kalamba, our party was augmented by Aguinaldo, Pablo Ocampo and another
+ilustrado whose name I've forgotten. They had come over from Cavite,
+where Aguinaldo has his farm, to see this estate with its modern sugar
+machinery. After going over the farm very thoroughly with the party I
+found myself next the former General at lunch. Conversation was
+difficult, as he spoke no English and not very fluent Spanish. I timidly
+asked him in desperation of something to say, if he remembered my
+father. On learning that he was the first Americano General to fight
+him, over fifteen years before, he became most interested, and asked
+very warmly to be remembered. When I told him my father was also retired
+and settled on his little farm he was pleased and said it was the real
+life. I think he is sincerely a farmer and will not be lured back to the
+hazards of political life. He is a modest, quiet, diffident little
+native of the pure Filipino type. He assured me that his children were
+making good progress in English and were at school working hard."
+
+[15] After Mr. Taft had made his journey to Rome to arrange the friar
+land question, he received a remarkable ovation upon his return to the
+Philippines. When he was appointed Secretary of War, Manila was flooded
+with posters bearing the words, in various languages, "We want Taft,"
+and such a host of petitions from influential citizens was sent to
+Washington that Mr. Roosevelt canceled the appointment. It was not until
+some time later that it was renewed and Mr. Taft left the Philippines to
+take his seat in the Cabinet at Washington.
+
+[16] It is difficult to realize the importance of the mestizo class in
+the Philippines. There are about seventy-five thousand Spanish mestizos
+and half a million Chinese mestizos.
+
+[17] Any one who is inclined to regret American rule in the Islands is
+cordially invited to read chapter sixteen in Dean Worcester's book, "The
+Philippines, Past and Present."
+
+[18] The cause of the pneumonic plague is so little known that it may be
+interesting to mention it here. The disease, it is said, is carried by
+marmots. It had not broken out since the fourteenth century, because
+Manchu hunters had for generations been taught not to kill marmots for
+this very reason. But in late years, with the great demand for furs, new
+hunters who knew nothing of this, killed the diseased marmots and so
+caused an epidemic.
+
+[19] The name "Bashee," originally applied to the Batan Islands, was
+derived from an intoxicating drink of that name made from sugar-cane and
+berries. It is still used very liberally, especially on all festal
+occasions. When Dampier's ships first touched these shores the _Bashee_
+was highly regarded by these ancient mariners.
+
+[20] Although we think of Japanese territory as far away from ours, here
+it approaches within sixty miles, as I have said, and within twenty-four
+miles of Guam the Japanese have lately occupied the former German
+islands of the Mariana group. In Bering Straits we are within three
+miles of Russian territory. There are two islands, the Diomedes, in the
+center of the strait, one of which is owned by Russia and the other by
+the United States. We usually consider both Japan and Russia very far
+off, but their possessions are in fact almost as near ours as Canada and
+Mexico.
+
+[21] An interesting passage from Worcester describes this Kalinga dance
+with more detail:
+
+"Into the ring steps the hero of the occasion, dressed in his best
+clothes, decked with his gaudiest ornaments, and bearing the shield,
+lance and head-ax used in the recent fights. Behind him there creeps
+along the ground a strange, shrinking figure, clad in soiled garments,
+with a dirty cotton blanket pulled over its head. The hero attracts
+attention to himself by emitting a squall which resembles nothing so
+much as the yell of a puppy when its tail is heavily trodden upon. He
+then begins to speak in a monotonous and highly artificial voice, the
+tone and cadences of which are strongly suggestive of those of a
+Japanese actor. With word and gesture he describes his recent exploit,
+using the shrinking figure beside him as a dummy to represent his fallen
+foe. When he stops for breath the ganzas strike up again, and when their
+clangour ceases he resumes his narrative. After concluding his
+pantomimic discussion of his latest exploit, he describes and boasts of
+previous achievements. Incidentally he indulges in high stepping and
+high jumping and displays deadly skill in the manipulation of his
+weapons. The crowd grows even more excited and, during the intervals
+while the ganzas are playing, shrieks its approval and shrills its
+monotonous war cry. Finally when his voice has grown hoarse and his
+muscles are tired, the principal actor retires and another takes his
+place. As darkness comes on, a blazing fire is lighted within the cañao
+circle.
+
+"Ultimately the young and vigorous warriors who participated in the
+recent fight are succeeded by the old men, who have been kept at home by
+the burden of years and infirmities. Strong drink has caused the dying
+fire in their veins to flare up for the moment. Each of them has a
+history of warlike deeds, which he proceeds to recount. The crowd
+already knows his story by heart, and when the forgetfulness of age or
+that of intoxication causes him to falter, prompts him and shouts with
+laughter at the joke.
+
+"Gradually the _basi_ begins to exert its stupefying effect; but so long
+as the music and dancing, and the shouting continue every one manages to
+keep awake. At last, food is passed, and in the interval during which it
+is being consumed the liquor gets a fair chance to work. As the east
+begins to glow with the coming dawn, men and women fall asleep in their
+places, or hasten to their homes, and the cañao ends, for the time being
+at least."
+
+[22] It is not so well known in this country as in the Far East that the
+fine code of laws which we have given the Philippines was drafted by our
+great statesman, Elihu Root, with the aid of some suggestions from Mr.
+Worcester.
+
+[23] I have taken a few remarks from several speeches.
+
+[24] The ascent of Mt. Mayon is dangerous except for experienced
+mountain climbers. The vista from the summit is said to surpass even the
+famous view from Mt. Ætna.
+
+[25] The Santo Niño of Cebu has a famous rival in the village of
+Antipolo where "Our Lady of Peace and Prosperous Voyages" is found. This
+image was brought to the Islands in 1626 by the Spanish government. It
+is said the Virgin has crossed the Pacific eight times to and from
+Mexico and each time "calmed a tempest."
+
+[26] This great missionary is buried on the island of Sibutu.
+
+[27] Worcester writes in regard to fishing: "There are barracudas of
+seven different species, some of which attain a length of six feet and
+weigh a hundred pounds or more. Bonitos of four different species have
+been taken, and afford fine sport. Croakers and groupers (locally known
+as _lapu-lapu_) are found in great variety. Hardtails and leather-jacks,
+commonly called _dorados_, are also very abundant. They take the spoon
+freely and fight well. There are also several species of mackerel and
+_pampano_, which are excellent table fish; and snappers, of which we
+have thirty-four known species. The large red snappers fight well.
+Sea-bass of two distinct species are common. Specimens weighing fifty to
+seventy-five pounds are frequently seen in the markets. The largest
+specimen as yet recorded from the Islands weighed three hundred
+thirty-four and a fourth pounds.
+
+"Swordfish, nine feet or more in length, may be taken during the cooler
+months. Tarpons up to five feet in length may be taken at the proper
+season, off the mouths of large streams. The species are distinct from
+that found in Atlantic waters, and the young take the fly freely.
+
+"The great, or leaping, tunas are met with in large schools during the
+winter months. The natives call them _cachareta_."
+
+
+
+
+
+
+End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of The Spell of the Hawaiian Islands and
+the Philippines, by Isabel Anderson
+
+*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 41451 ***