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diff --git a/41270.txt b/41270.txt deleted file mode 100644 index d624dc3..0000000 --- a/41270.txt +++ /dev/null @@ -1,6563 +0,0 @@ -The Project Gutenberg EBook of The Australian Explorers, by George Grimm - -This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with -almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or -re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included -with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org - - -Title: The Australian Explorers - Their Labours, Perils, and Achievements - -Author: George Grimm - -Release Date: November 11, 2012 [EBook #41270] - -Language: English - -Character set encoding: ASCII - -*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE AUSTRALIAN EXPLORERS *** - - - - -Produced by Paul Mitchell, Greg Bergquist and the Online -Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This -file was produced from images generously made available -by The Internet Archive/American Libraries.) - - - - - - - - - -THE - -AUSTRALIAN EXPLORERS - -THEIR - -LABOURS, PERILS, AND ACHIEVEMENTS - -BEING A NARRATIVE OF DISCOVERY FROM THE LANDING OF CAPTAIN COOK TO THE -CENTENNIAL YEAR - -BY - -GEORGE GRIMM, M.A. - -MINISTER OF ST. PAUL'S, BALMAIN WEST, SYDNEY; AND TUTOR IN APOLOGETICS -AND SYSTEMATIC THEOLOGY TO THE PRESBYTERIAN CHURCH OF NEW SOUTH WALES - -GEORGE ROBERTSON & COMPANY MELBOURNE AND SYDNEY 1888 - - - - -TO THE MEMORY - -OF THE LATE - -JOHN DUNMORE LANG, D.D. - -IN GRATEFUL REMEMBRANCE - -OF MUCH PLEASANT INTERCOURSE - -THIS VOLUME IS AFFECTIONATELY INSCRIBED - - - - -PREFACE. - - -The story of the exploration of Australia is one which we cannot -willingly let die. There are many reasons for keeping alive the -remembrance of such heroic deeds. It is due to the memory of those men -who took their lives in their hands, and, in many cases, laid their -bones in the desert; it is an act of gratitude on our part, who have -entered on their labours; and it is a kind of information indispensable -to every Australian who desires to know the history of his country. And -yet there is great danger of their being practically forgotten. The time -when the harvest of discovery was reaped has faded into the past, and a -generation is growing up not well informed on these most interesting -adventures and achievements. Nor are the sources of information easily -obtainable by those who purposely put themselves on the search. The -journals of the explorers, never too plentiful, have now become scarce. -They are only occasionally met with in private hands, where they are, -for good reasons, held as a treasure. A considerable number of these -works are to be found in the Sydney School of Arts, but they have been -withdrawn from circulation, and are now kept for special reference only, -in a glass case, under lock and key. The Government Library contains -the best collection extant, but even there it has been deemed necessary -to adopt restrictive regulations, with the view of giving the books a -longer lease of existence. This scarcity of the sources of information, -and these restrictions which fence in the few that remain, may be -accepted as a sufficient plea for the effort here made to popularize the -knowledge they contain. But I would warn the reader not to expect from -this small volume what it does not profess to give. In no sense does it -pretend to be elaborate or exhaustive. I have had to study brevity for -another reason than its being the soul of wit. It would have been a -pleasant task to write long descriptions of Australian scenery, and to -follow the explorers even into the by-paths of their journeys; but the -result would have been just what I have had to avoid--a bulky volume. -Yet, such as it is, I hope the book will be found acceptable to the man -of business, who can neither afford to be ignorant of this subject nor -find time to enter into its minutiae; to the youth of our country, who -cannot obtain access to the original sources; and to the general reader, -who desires to be told in simple, artless language the main outlines of -this fascinating story. - -Having written on a subject in no way connected with my profession, I -may be allowed to say, in a word, how my thoughts came to be diverted -into this channel. Probably they would never have been so directed to -any great extent had it not happened that the path of duty led me into -the tracks of several of the most eminent explorers. In earlier days it -was my lot to travel, in the service of the Gospel, most extensively in -the interior of Queensland, principally on the lines of the Condamine, -the Dawson, the Balonne, the Maranoa, and the Warrego rivers. In these -situations it was natural to wish for information as to the way and -manner in which those pastoral regions had been opened up for -settlement. Not much was to be gleaned from the occupants themselves; -but it fortunately happened that Sir Thomas Mitchell's journal fell into -my hands when amidst the scenes of one of his most splendid discoveries, -the Fitzroy Downs, and almost under the shadow of his well-named Mount -Abundance. The taste then obtained was sufficient to whet the appetite -for more, and the prosecution of this favourite study has issued in what -I may be permitted to call a tolerable acquaintance with the exploration -of Australia. About seven or eight years ago I wrote a series of papers -on this subject for the _Sydney Mail_, bringing the history down to the -expedition of Burke and Wills. The proprietors of that journal have -kindly permitted me to make use of my former articles in the preparation -of this work; but of this permission, for which I would here record my -thanks, I have availed myself only to a moderate extent. The whole has -been rewritten, some inadvertencies have been corrected, and the history -in its main outlines brought down to the present time. Although my -principal concern has been with the land explorers, I have, in the -introduction, given a sketch of the discoveries made on our coasts by -the navigators. So much was necessary to the completeness of my plan, -and also because the achievements of both to some extent dovetail into -one another. In the arrangement of the succeeding chapters I have -followed the chronological order, except in a very few cases where a -more important principle of classification will be obvious to the -reader. - -As regards authorities, I have spared no pains to get at the original -sources of information, and have succeeded in all but a few unimportant -exceptions. In these cases I have derived some help from interviews with -surviving relatives of the explorers and several very old colonists. I -have also been indebted for further light to works of acknowledged merit -which have been for some time before the public--notably, to the Rev. J. -E. Tenison Woods's "Exploration of Australia," and to Mr. Howitt's -"Discoveries in Australia, Tasmania, and New Zealand." My best -acknowledgments are also due to the Honourable P. G. King, Esq., M.L.C., -for the excellent notes he has written on the discoveries made by his -distinguished father, Admiral King. - -That this small volume may be found to afford pleasant and profitable -reading is the earnest wish of - -THE AUTHOR. - -BALMAIN WEST, SYDNEY, _18th May, 1888_. - - - - -CONTENTS. - - -PAGE - -INTRODUCTION--THE AUSTRALIAN NAVIGATORS 1 - -CHAPTER I. - -THE PIONEERS OF THE BLUE MOUNTAINS 25 - -CHAPTER II. - -EVANS'S DISCOVERY OF THE LACHLAN AND MACQUARIE 34 - -CHAPTER III. - -OXLEY'S EXPEDITION TO THE LACHLAN AND MACQUARIE 37 - -CHAPTER IV. - -HUME AND HOVELL'S EXPEDITION FROM LAKE GEORGE TO PORT PHILLIP 45 - -CHAPTER V. - -ALLAN CUNNINGHAM'S EXPLORATIONS 53 - -CHAPTER VI. - -CAPTAIN STURT'S THREE EXPEDITIONS 66 - -CHAPTER VII. - -EYRE'S ADVENTUROUS JOURNEY ALONG THE GREAT AUSTRALIAN BIGHT 96 - -CHAPTER VIII. - -SIR THOMAS MITCHELL'S FOUR EXPEDITIONS 110 - -CHAPTER IX. - -KENNEDY'S DISASTROUS EXPEDITION TO CAPE YORK 144 - -CHAPTER X. - -LEICHHARDT'S EXPEDITIONS TO PORT ESSINGTON AND INTO THE INTERIOR 152 - -CHAPTER XI. - -MR. A. C. GREGORY'S EXPEDITION TO THE NORTH-WEST INTERIOR 163 - -CHAPTER XII. - -BURKE AND WILLS'S EXPEDITION ACROSS THE AUSTRALIAN CONTINENT 167 - -CHAPTER XIII. - -SEARCH EXPEDITIONS IN QUEST OF BURKE AND WILLS 182 - -CHAPTER XIV. - -JOHN M'DOUALL STUART'S EXPEDITIONS IN THE SOUTH, TO THE CENTRE, AND -ACROSS THE CONTINENT 194 - -CHAPTER XV. - -COLONEL WARBURTON'S JOURNEY ACROSS THE WESTERN INTERIOR 210 - -CHAPTER XVI. - -THE HON. JOHN FORREST'S EXPLORATIONS IN WESTERN AUSTRALIA 219 - -CHAPTER XVII. - -MR. ERNEST GILES'S EXPLORATIONS IN CENTRAL AND WESTERN AUSTRALIA 228 - -CHAPTER XVIII. - -OTHER EXPLORERS IN WESTERN AUSTRALIA--CONCLUSION 237 - - - - -THE AUSTRALIAN EXPLORERS. - - - - -INTRODUCTION: PIONEER NAVIGATORS. - - -The eastern coast of New Holland, as Australia was then called, was -discovered by Captain Cook, while engaged in the first of his voyages -round the world. Leaving Cape Farewell, in New Zealand, on the 13th of -March, 1770, and steering a north-westerly course, on the 18th of April -he found the new continent rise into view in one of its south-eastern -headlands, which was then named Point Hicks, but is now known as Cape -Conran, and reckoned within the territory of Victoria. Henceforward the -_Endeavour_ was navigated along the coast to its most northern limit. In -these southern waters no practicable landing-place was observed till -Botany Bay was reached. Here the good ship came to anchor, and nearly a -week was passed amidst the strangest sights and scenes. This brief -interlude being over, the northern voyage was resumed in quest of -further discoveries. Scarcely had the Botany Heads faded from the view -when another large inlet was sighted from the deck of the vessel, but, -unhappily, not visited. The point of observation being miserably -inadequate, the great navigator was all unconscious of his being abreast -of the finest harbour of the world, and having given it the name of Port -Jackson, in honour of a distinguished English friend, held on his course -without pause or delay. For a while all went well with the navigator, -but in an hour when no danger was expected a cry of "breakers ahead" -brought to everyone on board a sense of extreme peril. By dint of the -captain's superior seamanship, and his perfect command over the crew, -the ship was turned from the rocks in a critical moment, and the -expedition rescued from a disastrous termination. The locality of this -threatened calamity was marked by a projection of the land, overhung by -a conspicuous hill, to which Cook gave the respective names of Point -Danger and Mount Warning, positions which the reader will recognize as -now forming the coastal boundary between New South Wales and Queensland. -But the _Endeavour_ was not to finish her voyage without making a still -closer acquaintance with misfortune. Having unconsciously approached a -hidden danger in the far north, she landed bodily on a reef, and -sustained most serious damage. It was only after the sacrifice of much -valuable cargo that she could be floated, and then it taxed all the -skill of the captain and the utmost energies of his crew to bring her to -the nearest anchorage. The port of safety, reached with so much -difficulty, proved to be the mouth of a small river, which has since -borne the name of the Endeavour. The repair of the crazy vessel -occupied a period of six weeks, during which "Jack ashore" enjoyed -rather exciting holidays, making his first acquaintance with the -kangaroo and other grotesque oddities of the Australian fauna. Having -again put to sea, only one stage more remained, and this over, the great -navigator reached Cape York, the extreme northern limit of this new -territory. Cook succeeded in his object to a degree that must have -surpassed his most sanguine anticipations, and now took care that his -labours should not be in vain, but redound to the benefit of his -country. All that was wanting was a declaration of ownership, and this -he accordingly made on the spot: "As I am now about to quit the eastern -coast of New Holland, which I have coasted from 38 deg. latitude to this -place, and which I am confident no European has ever seen before, I once -more hoist the English colours (although I have already taken possession -of the whole eastern coast by the name of New South Wales, from its -great similarity to that part of the principality of Wales), in the -right of my sovereign, George III., King of Great Britain." - -This welcome gift fell into the hands of the nation in a time of need. -Transportation to Virginia having come to an end through the revolt of -the American colonies, the English gaols were being filled to overflow -with criminals, and a new outlet was imperatively required. Somewhere in -the world a place had to be found for a penal settlement. The -publication of Cook's discoveries came in the nick of time, and -delivered the Government from embarrassment. It was resolved accordingly -to establish a crown colony at Botany Bay, which had been fully and only -too favourably described by the circumnavigator. On the 18th of March, -1787, a fleet consisting of eleven ships, carrying 757 convicts and 200 -soldiers, was despatched under the command of Captain Phillip, a retired -military officer. The voyage being somewhat circuitous, its destination -was not reached till the 18th of January following. Less than a week -sufficed to show that Cook's picture of Botany had more of colour than -correctness. The shores were found to be shallow, the roadstead exposed, -and the adjacent land ill suited to the purpose in view. Without loss of -time, the Governor, with his assistants, proceeded to examine the -capabilities of Port Jackson, which had been cursorily seen at a -distance by Cook and dismissed in a single sentence of his otherwise -copious narrative. The exploration issued in unmeasured satisfaction and -surprise. The party returned to the encampment with the tidings of a -harbour with a hundred coves, on the ample bosom of which all the navies -of Europe might ride at anchor. Orders to decamp were issued forthwith, -and the removal of the nascent colony was the work of but a day or two. -The spot selected for the permanent home is contiguous to the modern -Circular Quay, and was recommended for acceptance by a clear and limpid -stream that glided on its course underneath the indigenous copse. The -infant colony had its baptism of hardship, but was able to survive the -struggle for existence. The inauguration took place on the 7th of -February, 1788, when the settlement was formally proclaimed a crown -colony, in circumstances of no small state and ceremony. - -The passion for discovery soon took possession of the new arrivals, and -the adventurous Governor placed himself in the front of this enterprise. -To us who live in times when Australia has ceased to be an unknown land, -their efforts in this direction may appear to have been small and the -results insignificant, but it should not be forgotten that the horizon -was at that time the limit of discovery, even in meagre outline, whilst -an accurate survey had scarcely proceeded a couple of miles beyond the -settlement. On the 2nd of May the Governor and party sailed off in the -long-boat for the purpose of exploring Broken Bay, which had been seen -and named by Captain Cook, but not entered. It proved to be the entrance -to a large river, expanding to an immense width, and abounding in -exquisite natural scenery. Having crossed the bar, three distinct -divisions of Broken Bay were explored, and to the last of which they -gave the name of Pitt Water, in honour of the far-famed English premier. -Next year this success was followed up with the exploration of the river -(the Hawkesbury) which here enters the sea. Large tracts of rich -alluvial land were found on both sides. In a short time hence these -fertile flats became the homes of an industrious agricultural -population, who frequently saved Sydney from the horrors of famine. This -voyage of discovery was continued as far as Richmond Hill (the -Kurrajong), from which position the chasm in the mountains was -distinctly seen, and the sentries which guard its entrance named the -Carmarthen and Lansdown Hills. - -It was the exploration of the coast-line, however, that principally -engaged the attention of the infant colony, and for this work two men of -rare ability stepped to the front. In 1795, just seven years after the -foundation of the colony, Captain Hunter, having been appointed Governor -in succession to Captain Phillip, arrived in Port Jackson with the -_Reliance_ and the _Supply_, bringing George Bass as surgeon and Matthew -Flinders in the capacity of midshipman. These adventurous and truly -kindred spirits lost no time in girding themselves up for the work of -discovery. They had been barely a month in the country when the -colonists saw them start on their first expedition. Taking only a boy -for general service, and embarking in a boat not more than eight feet -long--very suitably named the _Tom Thumb_--they sailed round to Botany -Bay, thence up George's River, which was now explored for 20 miles -beyond what was previously known. The results were, the opening up of -much available land and the commencement of a new settlement under the -name of Bankstown, which is still retained. But the success attending -this adventure was eclipsed by next year's discoveries, which were -achieved under similar difficulties. The tiny _Tom Thumb_, with its -crew of three all told, again left Port Jackson for the purpose of -examining a large river which was supposed to enter the ocean to the -south of Botany Bay. Having stood out to sea in order to catch the -current, the voyagers unwittingly passed the object of their search and -were carried far southward. Bad weather now supervened; the little craft -was tossed like a cork on the billows, and finally beached in a heavy -surf with the loss of many valuables on board. Being now in want of -water, the party were compelled to leave the rock-bound coast and steer -still further south, in the hope of finding a more favourable locality. -Eventually they cast anchor about two miles beyond the present town of -Wollongong, in an inlet which, in commemoration of this incident, still -bears the name of the Tom Thumb Lagoon. The blacks, it was ascertained, -called the district Allourie, which has, doubtless, been transformed -into the more euphonious Illawarra. On the homeward voyage Bass and -Flinders made a seasonable discovery of a snug little shelter, which -they called Providential Cove, but which is now generally known by the -native name, Wattamolla. About four miles further north they were -fortunate at last in hitting upon the real object of their search. It -proved to be a large sheet of water stretching several miles inland, and -presented the appearance of a port rather than a river. The natives -spoke of it as "Deeban," but it is now called Port Hacking, it is -believed in acknowledgment of the services of a pilot of that name. -Having accomplished far more than the object they had in view, the -daring seamen returned to Sydney Cove, after passing through a -succession of perils and privations which give to their narrative the -character, not of sober history, but of wild romance. - -The next important expedition was carried out under the sole conduct of -Bass. On his own petition the Governor furnished him with a whale-boat, -carrying a crew of six seamen and provided with supplies for six weeks -only. With so slender an equipment this born adventurer sailed from Port -Jackson on a voyage of 600 miles, along a little-known and possibly -perilous coast. One lovely summer evening, which happened to be the 3rd -of December, 1797, the little whaler with its stout-hearted crew bore -round the South Head, and bravely turned its prow towards its unknown -destination. Scarcely had the familiar landmarks dropped out of sight -when the elements engaged in tempestuous fury, and the storm drove the -adventurers to seek shelter first at Port Hacking, next at Wattamolla, -and again near Cook's Red Point, on the Illawarra coast. The headland, -under the lee of which the vessel took refuge, stands a little to the -south of Lake Illawarra, and still bears the name of Bass' Point. Not -long after the voyage was resumed he discovered the embouchure of a -river in an inferior harbour, which he called Shoalhaven, believing it -deserved no better name. Jervis Bay was next entered, but this was no -discovery, for it had been previously explored by Lieutenant Bowen, -whose name is still preserved in an island lying near the entrance. -Bass, however, had the good luck to discover Twofold Bay--a scene of -never-failing beauty, and a place of importance in our early history. -Passing rapidly southward he rounded Cape Howe, and first noticed the -Long Beach, but was unable to identify Point Hicks. He was now 300 miles -from Sydney, and whatever remained of the voyage was along an absolutely -unknown coast. Some important discoveries were made at various points, -but the most valuable portion of his labours was the exploration of -Western Port. Here he remained thirteen days, during which this -commodious harbour was carefully examined and fully described. A leading -object of the voyage had been to settle the question of the suspected -insularity of Van Diemen's Land. Bass had really solved the problem -without knowing it, for he had passed through the strait which now bears -his name. That it was detached from the continent his own bearings -rendered almost a certainty. To do more was impossible in the -circumstances. He had already been seven weeks from Sydney, which had -been left with only six weeks' provisions. These, though eked out by an -occasional supply of fish and fowl, were nearly exhausted, and the -homeward voyage was made on the shortest course. During an absence of -eleven weeks he had examined the coast for 600 miles south of Port -Jackson, the latter half of which had been utterly unknown up to the -time of this expedition. - -There still remains for review another memorable voyage of discovery, -undertaken by Bass and Flinders conjointly in the year 1798. The object -of this expedition was to demonstrate the existence of the probable -strait and the consequent insularity of Van Diemen's land; and the way -it was proposed to accomplish this double object was to sail through the -channel and circumnavigate the island. Bent on this adventure Bass and -Flinders left Sydney Cove on the 7th October, in the _Norfolk_, a good -sea-going sloop of 25 tons burthen. The run over the known waters was -made purposely in haste, because the time was limited. Their cruise in -the channel disclosed a large number of islands, the haunts of myriads -of sea-fowl, particularly the sooty petrel, which, though far from -savoury, served as an article of food. This strange bird was found, like -the rabbit, to burrow in the ground, where it was easily captured in the -evening. Flinders says it was simply necessary to thrust in the whole -length of the arm into the hole, whence one would be almost certain to -bring out a petrel--or a snake. The alternative was not a pleasant one, -but the commander had to husband up the provisions and the sailors were -not unwilling to run the risk. The circumnavigation of Van Diemen's Land -(Tasmania) commenced at the northern point, known as Cape Portland. -Nothing specially remarkable occurred till a point was reached which -they named Low Head, immediately after which the _Norfolk_ entered an -arm of the sea more than a mile in width. This appeared to be a -discovery of sufficient importance to devote sixteen days to its -exploration. It proved to be the embouchure of what is now known as the -River Tamar, on which Launceston, the second town of the island, is -built. The discoverers sailed up the estuary, following its course for -many miles inland. It was found to be alive with aquatic fowls, -particularly black swans, sometimes numbering 500 in a flock. This -unexpected diversion proved rich sport, and afforded a pleasant -interlude to the monotony of life at sea. But the expedition was not for -play, but work, and the ship was again upon her course. After a short -sail to the westward they found themselves rounding the north-west cape, -and with glad hearts could perceive the shore trending away for many a -league to the south. The problem was already virtually solved. -"Mr. Bass and myself," says Flinders, "hailed it with joy and mutual -congratulation, as announcing the completion of our long-wished-for -discovery of a passage into the southern Indian Ocean." This fortunate -issue of their labours marked an epoch both in the history of discovery -and the progress of international commerce. The circuitous route round -the south of Van Diemen's Land could henceforth be avoided, and in our -day the intervening strait has become the ordinary highway for the -Australian trade. It being still deemed advisable to carry out the -instructions to the letter, the circumnavigation of the island was -prosecuted with varying interest. In the southern parts some valuable -discoveries were made, and errors of previous observers corrected. In -consequence of unfavourable weather the run along the eastern coast was -made for the most part out of sight of land, but on the 6th of January -it was found they had completely rounded Van Diemen's Land, and so -brought their work to an end. The time allotted for the expedition -having also expired, the heroic navigators returned to Sydney, bringing -the welcome intelligence that doubt was no longer possible concerning -the insularity of Tasmania, and the practicability of the intervening -channel as a highway of commerce. The merit of this latter discovery is -almost equally due to both navigators, but with a generosity which -reflects credit, and is as noble as it is rare, Flinders prevailed on -Governor Hunter to call it Bass' Strait. - -What had now been done for the island of Van Diemen's Land by Bass and -Flinders conjointly was next to be achieved for the continent of -Australia by Flinders single-handed. Before his time much had been done -in enterprises of discovery on numerous and distant parts of the coast -by various commanders and by different nations; but as these efforts had -been conducted under no comprehensive plan, there was no continuous line -of exploration, and accordingly the discoveries hitherto made were known -only as _disjecta membra_, lying at wide intervals in the Southern -Ocean; but whether they were the extremities of one and the same -continent, or a cluster of sporadic islands, there was not yet -sufficient evidence to show. To settle this question was the true -mission of Matthew Flinders, and the method he adopted was to -circumnavigate the whole territory, keeping so near the land as to have -his eye on the raging surf, except when the darkness of the night and -the wildness of the weather rendered this purpose impracticable. On the -very day of his death the printing-press issued a record of his labours -in a couple of goodly quartos entitled "A Voyage to Terra Australis." -This name was proposed for the new country as a fair and likely means of -overcoming an acknowledged difficulty. The Dutch had long ago discovered -the western coast and called the country New Holland, whereas the -English, having performed a similar service for the eastern side, gave -the name of New South Wales to this and the parts adjacent. Herein lay -the difficulty; to call the whole continent New Holland seemed unfair to -the English, whilst it appeared equally unjust to the Dutch to give the -entire country the name of New South Wales. Flinders thought Terra -Australis would be a reasonable compromise, but added, in an -all-important footnote--"Had I permitted myself any innovation upon the -original term, it would have been to convert it into AUSTRALIA, as being -more agreeable to the ear and an assimilation to the other great -portions of the earth." The suggestion was a most fortunate one, in -spite of the innovation, and the remark shows that, among other and -greater obligations, we are indebted to this navigator for the name of -our country. - -On the 18th of July, 1801, Flinders sailed from Spithead in the -_Investigator_ for the circumnavigation of Australia. The continent was -first sighted on the 6th of December at the old landmark of the Leeuwin, -which had hitherto been believed to be an island, but was now found to -be connected with the mainland, and henceforth known as _Cape_ Leeuwin. -Having visited King George's Sound, the run was next made along the -Great Australian Bight to Fowler's Bay and Nuyt's Archipelago. Other -navigators had visited this part and examined it with more or less -attention. All the knowledge gained in the next stage had the merit of -original discoveries. Foremost among these were Spencer and St. Vincent -Gulfs, with Yorke Peninsula intervening, and a large island lying nearly -opposite. On the latter they found no human inhabitants, but marsupials -and seals were seen in prodigious numbers, and hence the explorers gave -it the name of Kangaroo Island. Having never met with any of Adam's -children till now, the denizens of the island showed no timidity in the -presence of the strangers, nor expected any harm; and this indifference -was observed to continue much longer with the kangaroos than with the -seals. Flinders was of opinion that the kangaroos mistook their visitors -for a variety of seals, but the seals soon became too knowing to -confound them with kangaroos. A little sharp experience led both classes -of animals to regard the intruders as deadly enemies. From that hour -confidence departed and fear took its place. Shortly after the -navigator left this island a very memorable incident occurred. A sailor -from the mast-head reported a white rock in sight. On a nearer view it -proved to be the sails of a ship--of all things surely the last to be -expected in this unknown quarter of the world. Both vessels met in these -strange waters, and then the apparition turned out to be the French ship -the _Geographe_, also on a voyage of discovery, under the command of -Captain Baudin. The jealous Frenchman ill concealed his vexation on -meeting with a rival who had reaped the harvest of discovery over so -many leagues of a coast-line which he believed himself to be the first -to visit. Nor was jealousy his only or his worst fault. This -unscrupulous navigator had the audacity to proceed as an explorer in -unknown waters, and lay claim to discoveries which the Englishman had -just made. Flinders, on the contrary, acted like the model of integrity -which he was. He maintained the right of prior discovery in respect to -all the places he had been the first to visit, leaving to Baudin an -undisputed claim on such as he had already examined. This is the reason -why the names of localities to the westward of this point are -predominantly English, while those lying to the east are French. To the -place of meeting, as being a sort of double discovery, Flinders gave the -name of Encounter Bay. A minute examination of the remaining portions of -this coast having been rendered unnecessary, in consequence of Baudin's -cruise, Flinders now pushed on to Bass' Strait and entered an inlet -which he supposed to be Western Port. This conjecture turned out to be -a mistake, for the place, so far as Flinders was concerned, proved to be -a new discovery. Subsequently, however, he ascertained that the inlet -had been visited about ten weeks earlier by Lieutenant Murray, who had -given it the name of Port Phillip. Perceiving the importance of the -place, Flinders wisely devoted one week to the examination of the bay -and the exploration of the immediate neighbourhood. Having seen so many -capabilities of land and water, he put on record his opinion that "a -settlement would probably be made at Port Phillip some time after." This -hesitating prophecy was uttered as late as the year 1802, and the -locality in question is the site on which the great city of Melbourne -now stands, with its population of 300,000 souls! Having again stood out -to sea, the _Investigator_ was soon abreast of Western Port, the utmost -limit of Bass's discoveries, and now the vessel was considered to be in -known waters. A direct run was accordingly made for Port Jackson, and -Sydney was reached on the 1st of May, 1802. - -Philip Gidley King was at that time governor of New South Wales, and -Flinders had the good fortune to find in him both the courtesy of a -gentleman and the kindness of a friend. Permission having been obtained -from the Admiralty, the Governor placed the _Lady Nelson_ at the service -of the indefatigable navigator, and in every possible way encouraged his -enterprise. Being thus supplied with all requisites which the young -settlement could furnish, the _Investigator_, accompanied by the _Lady -Nelson_ as tender, resumed the voyage of circumnavigation under -promising auspices. Since the time of Cook the north-eastern coast had -been visited in various parts by different navigators, but much yet -remained to be done before a correct map could be drawn up, and Flinders -had it among his instructions to supply the deficiencies of his -predecessors wherever that might be possible. Having taken the trouble -to find out what portions of the coast Cook had passed in the night, he -made it his business to keep a sharp look-out on such localities, and in -this way became the discoverer of Curtis Bay and other inlets of -considerable importance. He was able also to correct many of Cook's -observations, and being provided with better instruments, supplied, in -not a few cases, the shortcomings of several other predecessors. But his -most valuable services in this quarter were his observations on the -Great Barrier Reef, which for more than a thousand miles runs nearly -parallel with the northern coast, and had hitherto been viewed as the -terror of navigators. To pierce this obstruction and get out into the -open sea was an undertaking of so much intricacy that seamen were -accustomed to call it "threading the needle." Even Cook, prince of -navigators as he was, failed in the attempt. Flinders persevered till he -discovered a safe gap in the mighty rampart, and showed succeeding -navigators an easy escape from a grave difficulty. An outside course was -then followed to the extreme north. Having now passed through the -Endeavour Strait, Flinders came to anchor in the Gulf of Carpentaria, -where he found a new scene for his energies and a rich field of -discovery awaiting him. - -The Gulf of Carpentaria had been early visited by the Dutch navigators, -but its exploration--if this word could be applied at all--had been -conducted in a desultory and piecemeal fashion. Its turn had come at -last, and the same painstaking service was to be rendered here which had -made the south and eastern coasts so correctly known. Flinders found the -gulf defined on the chart by a vague and hesitating coast-line, which -turned out, in most cases, to be more imaginary than according to -nature, and he left it so accurately described that his successors have -been able to add little to his careful investigations. In this patient -research four months were consumed, during which period he examined the -whole coast from end to end, including Arnheim Bay. The three seaboards -of Australia, south, east, and north, had now been explored in the -_Investigator_. It need not, therefore, occasion surprise to hear of her -showing signs of decay. This matter had to be attended to before -commencing the survey of the western coast, which was meant to be as -thorough as that of the other three had been. After making a call at -Timor with despatches, a rapid run was made for Port Jackson by the -western coast, but out of sight of land. Cape Leeuwin, the point from -which the circumnavigation had started, was reached on the 13th of May, -1803, and thus the heroic undertaking was virtually accomplished. -Shipwreck, tragic sufferings, and diabolical treachery cut off the -possibility of any further exploration of the western coast by Matthew -Flinders. - -The work which was thus left imperfect through a long series of -misfortunes was afterwards resumed, and very satisfactorily completed, -by another distinguished navigator, Captain, and subsequently Admiral -King. He played a prominent part in this period of our history, and was -much beloved for his sterling qualities both of head and heart. He made -four voyages to the western coast, in every one of which excellent -service was rendered to the cause of exploration. The following -interesting abstract of his discoveries has been kindly furnished by his -son, the Hon. P. G. King, M.L.C.:-- - -"On the 4th of February, 1817, Lieutenant Philip Parker King, of the -Royal Navy, the only son of Captain Philip Gidley King, the third -Governor of New South Wales, was appointed by the Lords Commissioners of -the Admiralty to carry out a survey of the then unexplored parts of the -'coasts of New South Wales,' which comprised from Arnheim Bay, near the -western entrance of the Gulf of Carpentaria, westward, and southward as -far as the South-West Cape, including the opening or deep bay called Van -Diemen's Bay, and the cluster of islands called the Rosemary Islands, -and the inlets behind them. He was also to examine the coast between -Cape Leeuwin and Cape Gasselin in M. De Freycinet's chart, and to -complete the circumnavigation of the 'continent.' - -"The Governor of the colony was directed to place at his disposal any -suitable vessel for his purpose, and accordingly the _Mermaid_, a cutter -recently arrived from India, of 84 tons burden, was placed under his -charge. Mr. F. Bedwell and Mr. John Septimus Roe (afterwards -Surveyor-General of Western Australia) were his assistants, and Mr. -Allan Cunningham, the botanical collector, specially appointed by Sir -Joseph Banks, the botanist of Cook's expedition. The chief of the Broken -Bay tribe of aborigines, 'Boon-ga-ree,' accompanied the little -expedition, and much service was obtained from him in the various -interviews with the natives. - -"Taking advantage of the westerly monsoon, the _Mermaid_ commenced her -work, leaving Port Jackson on the 22nd of December, 1817, and, -proceeding by Bass' Strait, arrived off the North-West Cape on the 10th -of February. The favourable wind lasted till the beginning of March, -when the south-east monsoon obliged the vessel to be worked to the -eastward, for the purpose of running before it on her work. Having -examined the coast and islands as far as Depuch Bay, the survey was -resumed at the Goulburn Islands. Port Essington was examined; also, Van -Diemen's Gulf and the Alligator River. A survey was made of the northern -shore of Melville Island and Apsley Strait, till the 31st of May, when, -provisions drawing to an end and water failing, the little vessel -stretched across 'the Great Australian Strait' to Timor, and anchored -off the Dutch settlement of Coepang on the 4th of June. On the 19th -Montebelle and Barrow Islands were surveyed. Dysentery now attacked the -ship's company, and further work had to be given up for this, Lieutenant -King's first voyage, which, lasting 31-1/2 weeks, terminated in his -return to Port Jackson on the 29th of July. - -"The winds not proving favourable for the passage through Torres Strait -by the eastern coast till February in the following year, 1819, a voyage -was made in the interval to Van Diemen's Land, and a survey was made of -Macquarie Harbour, on the west coast, and a departure was taken for the -second voyage on the 8th of May, during which a running survey was made, -including an examination of the entrance of Port Macquarie, from the -entrance of the inner passage through the Barrier Reefs at Breaksea Spit -to the Endeavour River, thence northerly as far as Cape York. A stretch -was now made across the Gulf of Carpentaria, and various parts of the -coast to the westward were examined, and Cambridge Gulf and Admiralty -Gulf were discovered and surveyed. A second visit had to be made to -Coepang to obtain supplies, to enable the vessel to return to Port -Jackson, where they arrived on the 12th December, after an absence of 35 -weeks. During this voyage a survey had been made of 540 miles of the -northern coast, in addition to 500 on the previous expedition, as well -as on this occasion making a running survey on the eastern coast of 900 -miles. - -"The third expedition comprised a further survey of the 900 miles just -alluded to, and of the north-west coast in various parts. It may be -noteworthy that the cutter was rigged on this occasion with rope made in -New South Wales from New Zealand flax (_phormium tenax_). The third -voyage was completed on the 9th of December, 1820, having occupied a -period of 25-1/2 weeks. - -"For the fourth voyage it was found necessary to purchase a larger -vessel, and, accordingly, Captain King, who had now received his -promotion, found himself in command of a brig of 170 tons, which was -thereafter called the _Bathurst_. The coast northwards to Torres Strait -was further examined. The Mauritius was visited, and the west coast -examined from Rottnest Island to the Buccaneers' Archipelago. The -_Bathurst_ returned to Port Jackson on the 25th of April, 1822, after an -absence of 344 days. Captain King was then ordered by the Admiralty to -return to England, to prepare his charts and journals for publication. - -"It is impossible in such a short _resume_ of his voyages to allude to -the numerous and interesting interviews with the aborigines which he -fell in with, further than to state that they were always conducted with -a desire to establish friendly relations. Captain King's services were -approved by the Admiralty, as he was entrusted with another command of -two vessels, to survey the southern coasts of South America." - -From 1839 to 1845 the survey of the north-western coasts was continued -with the _Beagle_, first under the command of Captain Wickham, and -subsequently of Lieutenant Stokes. Soon after arriving from England, in -the close of 1837, the coast was examined from Roebuck Bay to King's -Sound, during which cruise the Fitzroy River was discovered and -navigated for 90 miles from its entrance. In another voyage to the north -the coast was explored in the vicinity of Port Essington, which was -found to be a spacious harbour. Whilst examining Clarence Strait they -made the important discovery of the Adelaide River, which was -subsequently described by Mr. J. M'Douall Stuart as one of the best -possible situations for a new settlement. Port Darwin was also -discovered during this voyage. The _Beagle_ now proceeded to Cambridge -Gulf, and discovered the Victoria and Fitzmaurice Rivers. The former was -navigated for 50 miles, and rather hastily described as one of the -finest rivers of Australia. The run was now made to Swan River, and -thence, after a cruise among the islands, to Port Jackson. In June, -1841, the _Beagle_ again left Sydney, to examine the southern coast of -the Gulf of Carpentaria. Some important discoveries were made during -this cruise. A fine river, which the explorers named the Flinders, was -found, and navigated for 30 miles. On the 1st of August they discovered -the Albert. Having ascended to a splendid sheet of water, which was -named Hope Reach, they found themselves in the midst of enchanting -scenery, which Captain Stokes thus describes:--"It was as glorious a -prospect as could greet the eye. A magnificent sheet of water lay before -us in one unbroken expanse, resembling a smooth translucent lake. Its -gentle repose harmonized exquisitely with the slender, motionless boughs -of the drooping gums, palms, and acacias that clustered on the banks, -and dipped their feathery foliage in the limpid stream that, like a -polished mirror, bore within its bosom the image of the graceful -vegetation by which it was bordered. The report of our guns, as they -dealt destruction among the quails that here abounded, rolled for the -first time along the waters of the Albert, breaking in on the hush of -stillness that appeared to reign over all like the presence of a spirit. -The country which stretched away from either bank was an extensive -plain, covered with long, coarse grass, above which was occasionally -seen the head of a kangaroo, listening with its acute ear to our -approach." It was not possible to ascend much higher than this reach, on -account of the fallen timber which blocked the channel. The explorers -then landed on immense plains, which, perhaps with too hasty judgment, -they named the Plains of Promise. During this voyage they had examined -the Gulf coast for 200 miles, making the discovery of twenty inlets and -two large rivers. - - - - -CHAPTER I. - -THE PIONEERS OF THE BLUE MOUNTAINS. - - -Persons who have yet to make their acquaintance with the early history -of New South Wales will learn with surprise that the colony had been -founded for almost a quarter of a century before the Blue Mountain -barrier was crossed. For so long a period it was scarcely possible to -proceed more than forty miles from Sydney in any direction. Many a -despairing look must those early settlers have cast on the frowning -ramparts of the range, which, leaving only a narrow margin between -itself and the sea, threatened to convert the cradle of the colony into -a Procrustes' bed, to which its dimensions would have to conform in the -future, as they had done in the past. This sense of confinement was the -harder to bear that it was met with in a land of freedom; and many a -time did the caged eagle dash itself with fruitless rage against the -bars of its prison. A record of the unsuccessful attempts to get beyond -the main range would form a heroic chapter of our history, and one, too, -of which we might well feel proud, if there is any truth in the saying -that in great undertakings it is glorious even to fail. Within four -months after the arrival of the "first fleet" our annals present a -picture of Governor Phillip and party struggling laboriously westward -to the gorges of the mountains. In 1793 Lieutenant Dawes, with Captains -Trench and Paterson, put forth equally persistent, but just as -unsuccessful, efforts to scale the sandstone cliffs and reach the -interior. During this year, also, H. Hacking, of the _Sirius_, with two -companions, penetrated twenty miles into the mountains, passing over -eighteen or nineteen ridges or gullies, and returned to the settlement -after an absence of seven days. Three years later George Bass, the -famous, though unprofessional, navigator and discoverer of the strait -which still bears his name, did all that marvels of perseverance could -accomplish in the hope of forcing a passage by way of the valley of the -Grose. Taking a party on whose courage he could rely, Bass had his feet -armed with iron hooks that he might scale the cliffs, after the manner -of a spider, and made his men lower him with ropes into the outlying -chasms. But it was all in vain. After fifteen days of heroic endeavour, -he returned to Sydney, bringing the cold comfort of impossibility of -transit. Bass assured his fellow-colonists that a passage over the Blue -Mountains did not exist, even for a person on foot. It is possible that -this strong statement was disproved almost immediately after. A -tradition, not too well authenticated, speaks of a convict of the name -of Wilson actually crossing the mountains in 1799. With another advance -we get better footing, and read of a Lieutenant Barrellier making a -similar attempt, but only to add another name to the list of failures. -Two years later an effort of a more promising character was made by a -botanist of the name of Cayley, who pushed his way into the heart of the -mountains as far as the present Numantia, where he erected a cairn of -stones to mark the furthest limit of exploration to the west. He left -his rude monument without a name, but Governor Macquarie, in a sportive -mood, called it "Cayley's Repulse," and by this brand it is still -remembered by old colonists. The late Dr. Lang thus refers to it in his -"History":--"The place was pointed out to me by a respectable settler of -the Bathurst district on crossing the mountains for the first time in -the year 1826. It is certainly a most remarkable locality, nothing being -visible in any direction but immense masses of weather-beaten sandstone -rocks, towering over each other in all the sublimity of desolation; -quite a deep chasm, intersecting a lofty ridge covered with blasted -trees, seems to present an insurmountable barrier to all further -progress." - -At this outpost discovery appears to have stood still for a considerable -period. If further attempts were entered on in the succeeding years very -little has been said about them. The settlers must have made up their -minds for the time being to submit to the inevitable and reconcile -themselves to the situation with the best consolation they could find. -But a pressing emergency assailed them before long which aroused the -slumbering energy and led to another assault on the western ramparts. A -continuous drought had succeeded equally disastrous floods in the -Hawkesbury. The live stock of the settlement had by this time increased -to 65,121 sheep, 21,343 horned cattle, and 1,891 horses, and all these -had to be kept during a season of drought on an area of 80 miles by 40, -the greater part of which in the best of times was hopelessly sterile. -In this trying situation it became very manifest that one of two -alternatives had to be faced--either the Blue Mountain barrier must be -forced at all hazards and a way found into the interior, or, should this -prove to be absolutely impossible, the surplus stock would have to be -removed from the colony, if they were not to perish from starvation. The -crisis was a serious one, but it happily called forth an effectual -remedy. Three most capable men now came to the front to scale the -mountain ramparts from which so many assailants had already been cast -down; and now, at last, fortune was pleased to smile on the enterprise. -The foremost of this memorable trio was Gregory Blaxland, a native of -Kent, and born of an old English family in 1779. The second on the -expedition was William Lawson, who was formerly lieutenant in the 102nd -regiment, but had latterly retired to "Veteran Hall," his own country -seat near Prospect. These two leaders, on whom the whole responsibility -devolved, were joined by a third person, then wholly unknown, but who -afterwards made for himself a name not to be forgotten in New South -Wales. This was the embryo patriot and statesman, William Charles -Wentworth. Blaxland was now in his 35th year, Lawson about the same -age, but Wentworth was barely out of his 'teens, and professedly joined -the expedition in a freak of youthful adventure. - -This memorable expedition, consisting of the three parties named, -together with four attendants, a few pack horses, and several hunting -dogs, left Blaxland's farm, at South Creek, on the 11th of May, 1813. -The same afternoon the Nepean was crossed at Emu Ford, and the first -encampment made the same evening at the foot of the mountains which had -so long marked the western boundary of the settlement. The plan they -resolved to follow was to adhere to the dividing ridge or watershed -between the Warragumby and Grose Rivers, being careful to head all the -tributaries departing to the right or to the left. This determination -proved the secret of their ultimate success, and put the explorers in -possession of the only key to the situation. Next morning the Emu Plains -were left behind and the ascent of the mountains commenced. The high -land of Grose Head is noted as being about seven miles to the -north-east, and the place where the ascent began must have been -considerably to the north of the present Zig-zag, and near the starting -point of the original Bathurst-road. Having scaled the steepest part of -the ridge, here about 800 feet high, the travellers were careful to head -all the watercourses on both sides, in the hope of finding that the -highest ground would also be continuous. The first day's progress -amounted to a little over three miles, generally in a south-western -direction, and the night's encampment was made at the head of a deep -gully, where a small supply of water was found in the rock. Next morning -a start was made about 9 o'clock. After proceeding about a mile they had -the good luck to hit upon a large tract of forest land. Here was -discovered the track of a European, who had marked the trees. This belt -of open country ceased about two miles ahead, at which point further -progress was obstructed by impenetrable brushwood. The remainder of the -day having been consumed in fruitless efforts to round this obstacle, -the night was spent in the former position. Next morning the axes were -early at work hewing a track through the scrub, which could neither be -avoided nor penetrated. This step-by-step progress had to be endured for -five miles, until a more open patch was reached. Nor was this an -exceptional case. A great part of the route over the mountains had in -like manner to be laid open by the axe, thus making it necessary to -travel three times over the same ground. First, the track had to be cut -out; next, they had to return for the horses; and then the real advance -was made for another stage. On the fifth day the brushwood proved so -formidable that their progress did not exceed two miles. The following -day was Sunday, and the explorers enjoyed the Sabbath rest as much as -any toil-worn slave that ever breathed. On the 17th the horses were -loaded with a supply of grass, as the country was becoming still more -inhospitable, and an advance of seven miles was made through a track -which the axe had laid open. But the windings of the watershed now -appeared interminable, and the real progress, if measured in a straight -line, was small indeed. Yet it was only by this tedious course that the -mountains could be crossed, if crossed at all. The locality of the next -encampment was destitute of water, and what could be obtained in the -vicinity had to be carried up a precipitous cliff 600 feet in height. -The horses had to shift as they best could for that evening. To -aggravate matters, if such a thing were possible, a more serious -obstacle now rose in front of the intrepid explorers. The ridge, which -was their only hope, contracted to a width of 20 feet, and appeared to -terminate in a huge rock rising 30 feet directly in front. But -perseverance, which overcomes all things, brought them safely over this -barrier too. Wednesday, the 19th, was a red-letter day, for they now -reached the summit of the second elevation of the main range. The site -also was suitable for a camp, and offered a good supply of grass and -water. Next day a five-mile stage was accomplished, and the camp formed -on the margin of a lagoon with a small stream of water running through -it. Here the horses were left till the men had cut another day's march -through the scrub. Soon after the ridge began to widen, but proved to be -more rocky than ever. From the 22nd to the 28th the advance was made at -much the same rate and without any incidents calling for particular -remark. At last the pioneers had the inexpressible satisfaction of -finding themselves on the western fall of the mountains. But the slopes -facing the interior were exceedingly rugged, and a practicable descent -was nearly despaired of. After much difficulty a barely feasible one was -discovered, by means of which the party got clear of the mountains and -found themselves in a lovely valley, afterwards called the Yale of -Clwydd, and now well known as the site of the town of Hartley. - -Now, at last, the Blue Mountains had been crossed, but the pioneers -continued their journey a short distance further, to make sure that -every obstacle had been overcome. After leaving the range they advanced -two miles to the westward on the same day, and encamped on the bank of a -fine stream, probably what was afterwards known as the Rivulet, and now, -by an absurd blunder in spelling, the River Lett. The last encampment -was made on another brook, since called Farmer's Creek, but not from any -connection with the farming interest. Here Sir Thomas Mitchell lost his -favourite horse "Farmer," and considered the event of sufficient -importance to have its remembrance preserved in the name of the creek. -From this outpost of the expedition Blaxland went forth on the last -afternoon of May, 1813, and ascended a neighbouring hill, from the top -of which he beheld a magnificent expanse of pastoral country, -sufficient, in his reckoning, to meet the wants of the colony for thirty -years to come. This being the extreme point reached in this enterprise, -Governor Macquarie paid the leader a well-merited compliment in -associating the name of Blaxland with this memorable peak. - -The object of the journey being now happily attained, it was judged -unnecessary to travel further. Twenty days had been spent in forcing a -passage through the formidable mountain barrier, and the progress had -been so slow that not much more than three miles per day had been -averaged. The actual distance travelled along this tortuous ridge was -reckoned at fifty miles, and eight more had been added on the other -side. The return journey calls for no detailed remarks. The explorers -were greatly fatigued, in very poor health, and their clothes had been -torn to rags. Their outward track had been too laboriously hewn through -the brushwood to be difficult to find on their return. The colonists at -Sydney hailed with welcome the tidings of this signal success, and lost -no time in turning the wished-for discovery to practical account. - - - - -CHAPTER II. - -SURVEYOR EVANS'S DISCOVERY OF THE LACHLAN AND MACQUARIE RIVERS AND THE -BATHURST PLAINS. - - -Delighted with the success which had rewarded the Blue Mountain -enterprise, Governor Macquarie took prompt action in following up this -conquest over nature's barrier. A new and very capable man was now ready -to enter the field. This was Mr. George W. Evans, who at that time -filled the office of Deputy-Surveyor. His name occupies an honourable -place in our early annals. It were to be wished we had fuller -particulars of this first effort of his in the exploration of the colony -than are now to hand. The following brief sketch embodies all that is -really known on this subject:--He was absent only seven weeks on his -first journey, and in 21 days had penetrated 98 miles beyond the most -advanced camp of his predecessors. This new explorer crossed the Nepean -at Emu Ford on the 20th of November, 1813, and, six days after, arrived -at the termination of the journey of the Blue Mountain pioneers. -Proceeding westward, he crossed a well-grassed but broken and rugged -country, which was subsequently called the Clarence Hilly Range. By the -30th he had reached the dividing ridge which forms the watershed between -the eastern and western streams. Soon after this he discovered, in a -well-grassed valley, the head waters of a stream that abounded in fish, -and hence received the name of the Fish River. He continued to trace it, -winding its course through a fine country, suitable for agricultural and -grazing purposes, till the 7th of December, when it was joined by -another stream, which he named the Campbell. To the river which was thus -formed by these tributaries he gave the name of the Macquarie, after the -Governor, but the natives called it the Wambool. Continuing on the lead -of the Macquarie, he followed it through rich alluvial land--the -Bathurst Plains--destitute of timber, but abounding in game. During the -whole journey Evans met with only six natives, but saw the smoke of -their encampments in many places. He returned to Sydney on the 8th of -January, 1814. After a short interval he was again sent out to the same -district, with a small party and one month's provisions. During this -second journey Limestone Creek was discovered and explored; but its -chief result was the discovery of another large river, which he called -the Lachlan, after the Christian name of the Governor. The Lachlan and -the Macquarie formed an enigma to the early geographers. Their sources -were in the same neighbourhood, but both flowed towards the interior and -kept diverging from one another during every mile of their known course. - -The proper sequel to Evans's discoveries was the formation of a road -over the mountains to Bathurst Plains. This was done in the same year by -gangs of convicts under the command of one Cox, in an incredibly short -space of time, as tradition reports. This road, 100 miles in length, was -formally opened in May, 1815, by the Governor and Mrs. Macquarie, who -rode the whole distance on horseback. Bathurst was then laid out, and -has ever since continued to be one of the most flourishing places in the -colony, as might well be expected from a town which commands 50,000 -acres of first-class land within a radius of ten miles. - - - - -CHAPTER III. - -OXLEY'S EXPEDITIONS TO THE LACHLAN AND MACQUARIE RIVERS. - - -The passion for exploration was not yet allowed to slumber. -Deputy-Surveyor Evans's discovery of the Bathurst Plains, with two -promising rivers, only whetted the desire for further knowledge. It was -presumed that the Lachlan and the Macquarie united their waters in some -part of their course and finally disembogued in an unknown part of the -eastern coast. But all this was mere conjecture, which required to be -cleared up by actual exploration. A new expedition was accordingly set -on foot by the Governor, and a fit person appointed to the post of -leader. This was the Surveyor-General, John Oxley, R.N., who appears to -have been both an able and amiable man, combining the _fortiter in re_ -with the _suaviter in modo_. Allan Cunningham, who was his close -associate, always spoke of Oxley in terms of admiration and endearment. -Among other meritorious services he had the credit of giving to New -South Wales the first map of her immense territories, a task for which -he was well qualified by extensive colonial travel in his official -capacity. - - -I. - -This expedition, as finally organized under the conduct of Oxley, -consisted of Allan Cunningham, as king's botanist, Charles Frazer, as -colonial botanist, William Parr, as mineralogist, and eight others. On -the 20th of April, 1817, all the members of the expedition met at a -store depot on the bank of the Lachlan River, which had been fixed as -the point of departure. The details of their weary wanderings have been -recorded only at too great length in Oxley's published journals. The -author in the commencement of his work apologized for the uneventful -character of the narrative, and if this was necessary when enthusiasm -for exploration was at fever heat, the reader of the present day is not -likely to consider it superfluous. The fault, however, did not lie with -the writer, but is to be attributed to the uninteresting materials which -form the staple of his bulky volumes. The country he had to traverse -soon turned out to be singularly tame and tedious. The sea coast, with -its never-ending scenes of beauty, had been left far behind; the -mountain ranges, with their vast and varied grandeur, had sunk below the -horizon, and in place of both were found only the dull and dreary plains -of the Australian bush. Were it not that the whole of the country was -new, this record of daily travel would read like the diary of a -conscientious but uneventful life. It will be desirable, therefore, to -touch only on the chief points of the narrative. - -Starting from the point previously indicated, the party proceeded on -their travels along the southern bank of the river. Wild fowl appeared -in large numbers, offering excellent sport. The natives also were met -with more frequently than would have been agreeable had they been -disposed to be troublesome, which, fortunately, they were not. The one -thing which surprised the explorers was the behaviour of the Lachlan, -which, after showing itself a goodly river of a hundred feet in width, -threatened to end its career in a most undignified fashion. This it very -soon did, as they believed, by resolving itself into a succession of -marshes, to which they gave the name of the Lachlan Swamps. Being unable -to trace the river any further, Oxley now resolved to abandon the -enterprise and return home by a different route. He made up his mind, -accordingly, to make for the southern coast, which he hoped to strike -about Cape Northumberland, and thence reach Sydney by sea. In this -direction the course was steered till the 4th of July, when further -progress became extremely difficult, from the sterility of the country -and almost interminable forests of mallee, which Oxley, in a play of the -imagination, named the Euryalean scrub. At last it became apparent to -all that they would have to return to the Lachlan, through the want of -water, if for no other cause, and this was now done. The retrograde -movement was singularly unfortunate. Had they proceeded only twenty -miles further the Murrumbidgee would have been discovered, with its -never-failing volume of water. But, in their ignorance, it was otherwise -determined, and a laurel lost to the wreath of this distinguished -explorer. Nineteen weary days were consumed on this return journey, at -the end of which the Lachlan was reached, a long distance below the -swamps from which it had emerged, and was flowing in a strong current -confined within high banks. Waterfowl were again seen and caught in -abundance. Fish also were plentiful, some of them--the "Murray -cod"--weighing sixty or seventy pounds. This good fortune induced the -explorers to continue their journey down the river, in the hope of -reaching some satisfactory result. This expectation was not realized. -They were again landed among swamps and marshes, which were now regarded -for certain as the termination of the Lachlan, and the exploration was -conducted no further in this direction. Here, for the second time, Oxley -narrowly missed discovering the Murrumbidgee, from which he was distant -not more than two days' journey. The Lachlan had now been followed for -about 500 miles from the place where the expedition had started, and it -was resolved to proceed no further. A return was now made to Bathurst in -an oblique direction, with the intention of striking the Macquarie at a -point considerably below the place where it had first been seen by -Evans. Some important discoveries were made during this cross-country -cut. The Elizabeth River, Bell's River, and the Rivulet were met with -and named. Most important of all was the discovery of Wellington Valley, -an extensive tract of the finest country, well suited to all the -purposes of civilized man, and diversified with scenery of great -beauty. After travelling 150 miles from the lower swamps of the Lachlan -the Macquarie was struck about 50 miles below the place where it had -been seen by Evans. It was a river of good promise, and Oxley was -strongly inclined to follow it, as he had done the Lachlan, but the -slender remnant of provisions forbade the attempt. The expedition, -therefore, made for Bathurst, which was reached on the 29th of August, -after an absence of nineteen weeks. The distance travelled from start to -finish amounted to 1,200 miles. - - -II. - -Undeterred by the difficulties incurred on the Lachlan, Oxley, during -the following year (1818), engaged in a similar expedition for the -exploration of the lower course of the Macquarie. Tracing the unknown -stream to the westward, he found himself led out of the region of hills -into a country presenting a dead and monotonous level. Here the river -began to lose its well-defined course and to spread its waters over the -dreary expanse. With great difficulty, he succeeded in distinguishing -the river from the lake for a short distance onward, after which further -effort in a wide waste of water was to no purpose. Now, at last, he lost -sight of land and trees altogether, though again able to discern the -current of the Macquarie in a stream three feet deep winding in and out -among thickets of reeds, which here grew to a gigantic height. Oxley -conjectured he had now reached the commencement of an inland sea--a -phantom which long played fast and loose with those who loved to -speculate on the mysterious regions of Central Australia. In this pet -fancy the explorer, like many other theorists, was quite mistaken, for -this delusive expanse of water was not even the termination of the -Macquarie River. Ten years later Captain Sturt succeeded in tracing it -for 66 miles further, and found it ending its dubious career in the -River Darling. - -Two courses were now open to the expedition--either to return home -disappointed, or strike out in a new direction and make fresh -discoveries. The latter alternative was adopted. During an earlier part -of the journey their attention had been drawn to a lofty range of dark -mountains lying athwart the northern horizon. The march was now towards -this prominent landmark of the unknown domain of nature. Before it was -reached, and after the expedition had been out for about two months, -progress was arrested by the discovery of a river running in high flood. -This was named the Castlereagh, and a safe passage was obtained after a -short delay. There remained a weary journey to the range which had so -long loomed in the distance, and was reached after much difficulty, -owing to the boggy character of the ground. One of the principal -elevations was ascended, from which a magnificent prospect was obtained, -and the height ascertained to be about 3,000 feet. Oxley gave to this -chain the name of the Arbuthnot Range, but it is still most generally -known as the Warrambungle Mountains. The course of the expedition was -now directed toward the east, in the hope of ultimately reaching the -coast somewhere northward of Sydney. This purpose was rewarded by the -discovery of the Liverpool Plains, the most valuable find that had -hitherto fallen to the lot of any explorer. This is a splendid area of -first-class land, consisting of level country embracing about 17,000 -square miles, supposed to have formed in past ages the bed of a small -inland sea. The next discovery was the Namoi River, called after Sir -Robert Peel by Oxley, but it is still best known under the native -designation. After traversing the Liverpool Plains the expedition -entered upon the very dissimilar New England country, and experienced -fatiguing travel in mountain ranges, which was rewarded by the discovery -of another river, named the Apsley. One of the loftiest peaks in this -region was ascended by Oxley, and found to be about 6,000 feet in -height. From the crown of this mountain giant he was gratified with a -glimpse of the Pacific Ocean, and very fittingly gave to his position -the name of Mount Seaview. Shortly after the descent from this monarch -of the mountains another important river was met with. Oxley called it -the Hastings, in memory of the notorious Governor-General of India, and -here, for once, the name has stuck. This river was now followed to the -sea and the entrance named Port Macquarie, hitherto unknown to -Europeans. The exploring party, having now done their work so well, -resolved to make for home by travelling along the coast. Difficulties -undreamt of were encountered in the indentation of the shore and the -estuaries of the rivers, one of which, the Manning, was now first -discovered. These obstacles might well have proved insuperable but for -their good luck in meeting with a boat, probably the relic of a wreck, -which was stranded and half-buried in the sand. The welcome treasure was -carried on their shoulders for 90 miles, and put to use in crossing -estuaries as they came in the way. With this unexpected help in time of -need the party were enabled to reach Port Stephens. This harbour had -been discovered by Surveyor Grimes and was now well known. Thence -conveyance was obtained by sea to Newcastle, where the toil-worn -adventurers found themselves once more within the pale of civilization. - - - - -CHAPTER IV. - -HUME AND HOVELL'S EXPEDITION FROM LAKE GEORGE TO PORT PHILLIP. - - -Sir Thomas Brisbane succeeded to the Government of New South Wales on -the 1st of December, 1821. The work of exploration, which had received -such extraordinary impulse under Macquarie, was taken up with -corresponding zeal by the new Governor. The southern limit of discovery -at this period stood somewhere about Lake George; and public attention -was largely directed to the unknown country lying beyond this outpost. -The passion for exploration in this quarter had been discouraged, but -not suppressed, by a rash and unwarranted statement made by Oxley in the -journal he had given to the world. "We had demonstrated beyond a doubt," -said he, "that no river could fall into the sea between Cape Otway and -Spencer's Gulf--at least, none deriving its waters from the eastern -coast--and that the country south of the parallel of 34 deg., and west -of the meridian 147 deg. 30 min. was uninhabitable and useless for all -the purposes of civilized man." This singularly unfortunate assertion -should have been affirmative instead of negative, for the principal -rivers of the continent enter the sea within the limits here specified, -and some of the largest tracts of good land in Australia are enclosed by -these lines of longitude and latitude. Governor Brisbane, fortunately, -was not convinced by this so-called demonstration, and felt disposed to -have the question practically tested. With this object in view, he -proposed to the late Alexander Berry, himself no mean explorer, to land -a small party of convicts at Cape Howe or Wilson's Promontory, with -instructions, under promise of reward, to find their way overland to -Lake George as they best could, and ultimately to Sydney. Mr. Berry -cordially fell in with the proposal, and recommended as leader of the -party a young man who had already made his mark as a bushman. The -latter, however, demurred to the plan of the expedition, wishing it to -start from Lake George and work its way overland to Western Port, in -Bass' Strait. This suggestion was adopted without scruple or delay, and -the offer of his services gladly accepted. - -This young man's name was Hamilton Hume. He was a native of the colony, -having been born at Parramatta in 1797. In those early days educational -facilities were few, and it fell out from this cause that Hume owed all -the learning he possessed to the instructions of his kind mother. In -after life he was more indebted to his instincts than to his education. -A bushman, like a poet, is born, not made; and Hume, before leaving his -'teens, proved that genius for exploration was part of his nature. In -company with his brother, and when but fifteen years of age, he -discovered the district of Berrima, and shortly after completely -explored that part of the country. In 1817 he passed the southern -boundary of the known territory, and, in conjunction with Surveyor -Meehan, made the discovery of Lake Bathurst and the Goulburn Plains. -Again, in the year 1821, he proceeded further out, along with several -mates, and came upon the Yass Plains. All these discoveries, however -valuable for stockholders, may be regarded as but tentative essays in -the work of exploration in comparison with what was to follow; yet they -must have been highly advantageous in qualifying Hume for the arduous -expedition on which his fame must chiefly rest. - -While the necessary preparations for this undertaking were afoot, Mr. -Berry intimated to the Governor that another person was desirous of -being associated with Hume in the position of leader. This was Captain -Hovell, of Minto, a retired shipmaster. Having been a professional -navigator, he was presumed to be able to reckon longitude and latitude, -an accomplishment which the defectively-educated Hume, with all his -bushmanship, did not possess. The two men being thus furnished with -complementary qualifications, their association in the conduct of the -expedition was counted as a certain advantage. This was surely a -reasonable expectation; but the event proved that a greater mistake -could not have been made. The two leaders, like jealous rivals, -quarrelled from the start, kept wrangling throughout the expedition, -and, after it was over, maintained a bitter feud, till death put an end -to their animosity. The principal share in this work, and credit for the -results, have been claimed by both, and it is not easy to satisfy -oneself as to the real merits of the case. All things considered, the -balance of evidence is in favour of Hume, and he shall have the more -prominent place in the following sketch of the expedition. - -However favourable the Government might be to the progress of discovery, -a poor provision was made for this long and perilous journey. The chief -burden of the equipment fell upon the explorers themselves, who were ill -able to bear the strain. Hume keenly felt the sacrifice of a favourite -iron plough in order to purchase supplies. One way or other, a tolerable -provision was forthcoming; and then the explorers, accompanied by six -servants, started on the pioneer journey on the 17th of October, 1824. -At the close of the first day's march they encamped on the bank of a -river near the site of the present town of Yass. From the 19th to the -22nd the expedition was detained in its progress by the Murrumbidgee. In -the preceding year this river had been first seen by Europeans in its -upper course in the Monaro country; but for all that Hume had virtually -the merit of being the discoverer. The Murrumbidgee was found to be in -high flood, and threatened an effectual bar to further progress. But -difficulty aroused this explorer to Herculean effort. Being supplied -with a provision-cart, Hume took off the wheels, and, with the help of a -tarpaulin, improvised it into a rough-and-ready punt, which, assisted by -one of the men, he dragged across the swollen river. Another day's -march brought them to the Narrengullen Meadows, where the party -encamped for two nights. Again proceeding southward, the Tumut River was -discovered, and crossed without difficulty. Soon after, the expedition -was saluted by a splendid surprise. From the summit of a ridge, a little -before noon on a clear and beautiful day, the magnificent amphitheatre -of the Australian Alps, robed in snow, burst upon the view, and was now -first seen by civilized men. About this time, or shortly before, it -became evident to Hume that it would be necessary to direct the line of -march more to the west, in order to avoid the Snowy Mountains. From this -proposal Hovell dissented. Both leaders continued obstinate, and each -persisted in following a different course with his respective adherents. -A division of property had now become inevitable, and the principle of -partition seems to have been that primitive one in virtue of which the -stronger gets the larger share. There being only one frying-pan -remaining, each of the stalwart leaders simultaneously caught hold of -this handy domestic article, and the poor pan went to pieces in the -struggle, the result being such as would have followed the adoption of -Solomon's advice to halve the living child. The separation of the -leaders was not so irremediable as the division of the frying-pan. -Hovell soon discovered the folly of schism, and, better thoughts -prevailing, returned to re-unite his party with Hume's. - -After this incident nothing calling for special mention occurred till -the 16th of November, which was signalled by the discovery of the -principal river of Australia. Here was an agreeable surprise, coming as -it did in defiance of the prediction of Oxley, who was reckoned the -highest authority of the period. Hume called this river after his -father; but, forgetful of this fact, Captain Sturt, having hit it in its -lower course, gave it the name of the Murray, by which it is now known -through its whole length. The party who thus found themselves brought to -a stand-still naturally looked upon the crossing of so large a river as -a formidable undertaking, and some even insisted on regarding it as the -limit of the expedition--perhaps homesickness also was beginning to -prevail over their ardour for exploration. Hume was inflexible, as -usual, threatening to throw one of the remonstrants into the river if he -would not cross over of his own free will. The menace was effectual, and -the heroic leader had the satisfaction of seeing the whole of the -expedition on the other side of the Murray, having escaped without a -hitch or accident. Soon after, a tributary, the Mitta Mitta, was -reached, and crossed by means of a float constructed of wattles, and -covered with a tarpaulin. Turning its course more to the westward, the -expedition continued to advance towards the attainment of its object. -Passing near the site of the present Beechworth, the Ovens and Goulburn -Rivers were crossed without serious difficulty. In fact, the whole -journey up to this point had been remarkably uneventful for an -Australian tour of exploration. But for the leaders' quarrels and -separations it might have sunk into a rather tame and monotonous affair. -Now at length, however, a Titanic obstacle had to be encountered. Mount -Disappointment (of which Mount Macedon is a continuation) stretched -across the track, as if to defy further progress. For a while they nobly -persevered in hewing their way through the dense, tangled, and -apparently interminable brushwood, being animated by the assurance of -Hume that the opposing barrier could be nothing else than the Dividing -Range, which betokened the near termination of their labours. -Unfortunately the life and soul of the expedition, now more than ever -indispensable to its success, here met with a disabling accident from a -stake. The way through the scrub had to be abandoned, and a more -circuitous route followed. The most serious difficulty on the march was -a boggy creek in the locality where the town of Kilmore now stands. Here -again an attempt was made to throw up the undertaking and return home. -Hume, feeling certain in his own mind that they could not have much -further to go, entered into a compact with the discontents, engaging to -turn back in the course of two or three days should the goal of the -journey fail to come in view within that period. On the same day, the -13th December, the Dividing Range, in this part known as the Big Hill, -was finally crossed, and all difficulties came to an end. Hume, having -proceeded a short way in advance, and keeping an anxious look-out, -observed an opening in the mountains and a falling of the land toward -the south. This was a clear token heralding the approach to the close -of their wanderings. Hume, alone as he was, gave way to an outburst of -gladness, and awoke the echoes of the ranges with his lusty cheers. His -men came speedily round him and shared his joy. Their fatigues and -disappointments were henceforth things to be remembered, but no longer -felt. The same evening they encamped on the splendid Iramoo Downs, -having the ramparts of the range at their backs, and in three days more -saw the long-desired billows of the ocean rolling at their feet. Having -reached the close of the journey, they formed the last encampment within -twelve miles of the present town of Geelong, after travelling, since -their start from Lake George, not less than 670 miles. - - - - -CHAPTER V. - -ALLAN CUNNINGHAM'S EXPLORATIONS. - - -Few visitors to the Sydney Botanic Gardens can fail to notice a memorial -obelisk standing on a shady islet in the lower grounds. This monument, -as the inscription declares, was erected in memory of Allan Cunningham, -an eminent botanist, and for some time curator of these Gardens. But -beyond the scanty information here given, very little is now generally -known of the life and work of this worthy man. Restrained by that -modesty which is so often a concomitant of real genius, he shrank from -publicity during his own brief and busy lifetime; and posterity, ever -too forgetful of the obligations of the past, have allowed his -achievements to lapse into unmerited oblivion. This is flagrant -ingratitude which should be brought to an end by a generous endeavour to -resuscitate a heroic and patriotic memory. - -Allan Cunningham was born at Wimbledon, England, on the 13th of July, -1791, and was of Scotch extraction on the father's side. Being -designated for the bar he entered in due time upon the legal profession, -but soon abandoned it as uncongenial to his tastes and habits. The study -of botany proved an irresistible fascination to young Allan, who soon -became a proficient in this science. Having been introduced to Sir -Joseph Banks, he obtained, through his influence, an appointment as -King's Botanist for Australia, with the view of furnishing the Royal -Gardens at Kew with a collection of new plants from the southern -hemisphere. He sailed, accordingly, for his destination; and, after -spending a short time in Brazil, landed in New South Wales, probably in -December, 1816. As noticed in a preceding chapter he was associated with -Oxley in his expeditions to the Lachlan and Macquarie rivers, and it was -during these wanderings that the young botanist conceived a passion for -exploration which did not leave him till the day of his death. This tour -being ended, Cunningham returned to Parramatta, where he fixed his home, -so far as he had one, during his life in Australia. - -In the close of 1817, the _Mermaid_, under the command of Captain, -afterwards Admiral, King, was preparing to leave Port Jackson on a -voyage of discovery on the western coast of Australia. Cunningham, to -his intense satisfaction, received a letter from Sir Joseph Banks, -directing him to join this expedition, in the interest of botanical -science. Sailing through Bass' Strait the _Mermaid_ came to anchor in -King George's Sound and other harbours, which proved to be well suited -for the botanist's purpose, and yielded 300 species of new plants. With -this spoil he came home fully satisfied. His next essay in this field -was an excursion to Illawarra, which was always a favourite district -with him. But this ramble was only an interlude. In 1819 he again -joined Captain King in an expedition to the Macquarie Harbour, on the -western coast of Van Diemen's Land (Tasmania), where also he collected -many valuable specimens for the Kew Gardens. Soon after he was again -associated with the same navigator on another voyage to the -north-western coast. Still two more expeditions to the same coast were -undertaken and successfully carried out within the next two years. The -results in every case were highly successful, and the boundaries of -science gained further extension from these enterprises. - -Having spent four years on these voyages with King, Cunningham became -inoculated with the spirit of adventure, and thirsted for an exploit on -his own account. The feat he proposed to himself was to open a practical -route from Bathurst to the Liverpool Plains. This splendid district, as -already narrated, had been discovered by Oxley three years previously; -but he had entered it from the western side--so to speak, by the back -door--on his journey from the marshes of the Macquarie. The discovery -had, consequently, been useless, and the Liverpool Plains were as yet -known only by name. Sir Thomas Brisbane, the Governor of the day, -entered heartily into Cunningham's scheme, having clearly understood the -importance of the object in view. Orders for an equipment were issued to -the full extent of the explorer's requirements. All things being ready -by the 31st of March, 1823, the party, consisting of the leader, with -five men, and five pack-horses, carrying provisions for ten weeks, left -Parramatta for Bathurst, which was reached on the 5th of April, and then -the northward journey commenced. After many weary stages, during which -the patience of the men and the strength of the horses were severely -tried, they reached the Warrambungle Mountains, which form the southern -boundary of the Liverpool Plains; but the difficulty in finding a -passage through this barrier appeared to be insuperable. The first -fortnight was spent to no purpose in attempting to discover an opening -on the south-eastern side. Almost in despair, the party retraced their -steps and fell back on a former encampment on the Goulburn River, the -principal tributary of the Hunter. Provisions were now getting short, -and the allowance had to be reduced; but, in spite of all these -dispiriting circumstances, Cunningham still resolved to prosecute his -enterprise by making another struggle to find an entrance from a -different point. Turning now to the north-west, and searching along the -front of the range, he succeeded at last, on the 5th of June, in -discovering a gap which afforded a good passage into the Liverpool -Plains. To this entrance he gave the name of Pandora's Pass, believing -it would become the chief if not the only means of communication between -the settlers at Bathurst and the Hunter River and the occupants of the -plains. The following memorandum was buried in a valley immediately -below the pass:-- - -"After a very laborious and harassing journey from Bathurst, a party, -consisting of five persons, under the direction of Allan Cunningham, -H.M. Botanist (making the sixth individual), having failed of finding a -route to the Liverpool Plains, whilst tracing the south base of the -barrier mountains (before us, north), so far as 50 miles to the eastward -of this spot, at length, upon prosecuting their research under this -great mountain belt, north by west from this tree, to the very extensive -levels connected with the above-mentioned plains, of which the -southernmost of the chain is distant about 11 or 12 miles N.N.W. from -this valley, and to which a line of trees has been carefully marked, -thus opening an unlimited, unbounded, and seemingly well-watered country -N.N.W. to call forth the exertions of the industrious agriculturist and -grazier, for whose benefit the present labours of the party have been -extended.... Buried for the information of the first farmers who may -venture to advance so far to the northward as this vale; of whom it is -requested that this document may not be destroyed, but carried to the -settlement at Bathurst, after opening the bottle." - -This memorandum was found a few years ago, and the explorer's directions -carried out. The object of the expedition being now accomplished, the -party returned on the homeward track, and Allan Cunningham reached -Parramatta on the 21st of July, 1823. - -In the next important enterprise he is found associated with Oxley, -exploring the country around Moreton Bay. They surveyed the Brisbane -River, pushing up the stream as far as was practicable in their boat. -It turned out to have but a short course, and they were disappointed in -their expectation of being carried for some distance into the interior. -Yet this labour had the negative value of satisfying the public that the -Brisbane was not one of the great rivers of Australia. The King's -Botanist again found rich spoil for the Royal Gardens at Kew. - -During the winter months of 1825, being again bent on travel, Cunningham -started for a northern tour. Leaving Parramatta, he crossed the -Hawkesbury and proceeded towards Wollombi, one of the tributaries of the -Hunter River. Still pushing ahead he reached Mount Danger, then -Pandora's Pass, and entered upon the Liverpool Plains. These he now -found to be a region of swamps and marshes as the consequence of a rainy -season. Having crossed this district as best he could, the ardent -traveller pressed on through Camden Valley and reached Dunlop's Head, at -no great distance from the River Darling, which, with a little -presentiment, he might soon have discovered and anticipated Captain -Sturt. But as the country was now beginning to dip perceptibly, being in -many places covered with water, which had accumulated during recent wet -weather, he deemed prudence the better part of valour, and abandoned a -hopeless enterprise. He was again in his own home by the 17th of June, -having travelled in all about 700 miles. - -After a short season of rest, during which New Zealand was visited, -this untiring scientist returned to the colony and offered himself for -further exploration with renewed zest and zeal. The time was opportune, -for the Governor had been anxiously looking about for a suitable leader -to conduct an expedition to the distant north. Cunningham's offer was -therefore eagerly accepted, and ample provision made for his -requirements. All things being ready, the start was made on the 30th of -April, 1827, with six picked men and eleven heavily-laden horsemen. The -route skirted the western flank of the Liverpool Plains, and by the 11th -of May the party entered upon ground hitherto untrodden by civilized -man. A fine valley now opened to view, and was named the Stoddart, in -remembrance of an old friend of the explorer's. The Namoi River was next -forded, and by the 25th the hilly country on the west had sunk into the -plain. The scene that now lay before them will be best described in the -words of the leader of the expedition. "A level open interior of vast -expanse, bounded on the north and north-west by a distant horizon, broke -suddenly on our view. At north-west, more particularly, it was evident -to all of us that the country had a decided dip, and in that bearing the -line of sight extended over a great extent of densely wooded or brushed -land, the monotonous aspect of which was here and there relieved by a -brown patch of plain; of these some were so remote as to appear a mere -speck on the _ocean_ of land before us, on which the eye sought -anxiously for a rising smoke as indicative of the presence of the -wandering aborigines, but in vain; for, excepting in the immediate -neighbourhood of a river of the larger magnitude, these vast solitudes -may be fairly said to be almost entirely without inhabitants. We had now -all the high grounds on our right, or to the east of us, and before us, -to the north, a level wooded country." These plains which ran out -towards the western interior, having turned out to be drier than was -expected, the line of route was now directed more to the north and -north-west, with the result of discovering and crossing the Dumaresq -River, within a few days. The course next lay for some time through a -poor and inhospitable country in which the jaded horses fared badly -enough. By the 5th of June, this sterile belt was left behind, and now -the eyes of the patient explorers rested on one of the finest regions -they had ever beheld. For many a league north, east, and west the field -of vision was filled with a panorama of boundless plains, rolling downs, -and azure mountain ranges. This magnificent territory, rivalling a -principality in size, was clad with luxuriant vegetation and generally -well watered. The name Darling Downs was subsequently bestowed on this -fine country in honour of Governor Darling, and it now forms one of the -most valued possessions in the colony of Queensland. The average -elevation of this table-land Cunningham found to be about 1,800 feet -above sea-level. Had this worthy man performed no other public service -during his lifetime, the discovery of the Darling Downs would have -given him a strong claim on the gratitude of posterity. - -Having now sufficiently realized the aim of the northern expedition, -Allan Cunningham ceased to push farther in that direction, and made -eastward for the coast. Here also was made an important discovery on a -smaller scale in the unexpected appearance of a fertile valley, with a -river of greater size than a mountain stream. To both the valley and the -river he gave the name of Logan, in compliment to the commander of the -penal settlement at Brisbane. The expedition tarried for some time in -this lovely vale, where both men and beasts of burden enjoyed -much-needed repose. Cunningham himself, who scarcely understood what -rest meant, botanized as usual, and examined the physical configuration -of the country. On a fine morning he scaled one of the impending peaks, -from the summit of which he obtained a comprehensive view of the -situation and its surroundings. To the south-east, at the distance of 60 -or 70 miles, the towering cone of Mount Warning, the sailor's beacon, -rose in impressive grandeur; while towards the north-east the environs -of Moreton Bay were plainly visible. This latter revelation made it -obvious that the proper route to the Darling Downs would be from Moreton -Bay, by the Brisbane River, and through the Main Range. Hence it became -a matter of the first importance to find a passage through the -mountains, if within the bounds of possibility. An effort was -accordingly made, and an opening, as he believed, discovered, but its -complete verification had to be deferred till another opportunity. The -homeward journey was resumed on the 16th of June. On the 30th, the -Dumaresq River was crossed 50 miles above the outward bound track of the -expedition. In ten days more a large river was reached, and is now -well-known under the native name Gwydir. They next came upon a wooded -tract, reached by a descent of 1,200 feet, a sore task for the weary -horses. On the 19th the party were again on the Liverpool Plains, and a -few days' more travelling brought them to their welcome homes. They had -journeyed over 800 miles, and been absent thirteen weeks. One noteworthy -incident connected with the tour was the paucity of native inhabitants -met with in any of the districts. Only five times, from first to last, -had the black-fellows put in an appearance, and even then the explorers -had seen nothing but the colour of their skin. - -Cunningham's health now began to give way, and he longed to return to -old England, to end his days in the land of his birth; but, before doing -so, he planned and executed another exploring excursion to Moreton Bay. -His principal object was to obtain certain evidence of the existence and -practicability of the pass, which he believed to have been already -discovered. After much rough work he had the good fortune to set this -question at rest and point out a passage into the Darling Downs, as he -had formerly done into the Liverpool Plains. This pass still retains -the name of Cunningham's Gap. The following succinct but sufficient -notice is found in the explorer's own notes:--"This pass, or door of -entrance from the sea-coast to a beautiful pastoral country of undefined -extent, seen from this point, was this day (25th August, 1828) visited -by Allan Cunningham and a convict servant, and the practicability of a -high road being constructed through it at some future day was most fully -ascertained. The pass is in latitude 23 deg. 3' S., and longitude 152 deg. 26' -E., and distant 54 statute miles from Brisbane Town." Four years later -he was able to carry out his purpose of returning to England; but his -heart was in Australia all the while, and he became impatient to get -back to its sunny skies and balmy air. On being offered the situation of -Colonial Botanist he accepted the appointment, and returned to the land -of so many of his labours; but his new office was not what he expected. -Besides keeping the Botanic Gardens, which would, alone, have been a -most congenial occupation, he was required to act as landscape gardener -for the upper classes and take charge of one hundred convicts, forty of -whom were lodged in the barracks within the Gardens, and for whose good -behaviour the curator was alone responsible. In addition to all this -drudgery he was compelled to grow vegetables for the Government -officials. Such servitude was breaking his heart, and it can surprise no -one to find him throwing up the appointment in disgust. This undignified -treatment of a man of shining merits is tartly alluded to in the -_Sydney Mail_ of the 29th January, 1838:-- - -"THE BOTANICAL, ALIAS THE KITCHEN GARDEN.--We have had frequently to -call the attention of the colonists to the fact that a kitchen garden, -under the pretence of a botanic garden, is supported in Sydney at an -expense of from L800 to L1,000 a year. We scarcely ever walk through -this garden without seeing some servant with a basket, carrying off -vegetables or fruit for Mrs. This or Mrs. That, the wife of some -official. Can't these people go to market and purchase their supplies as -independent persons do, instead of poaching on what is really public -property. Seriously we do say that such an impudent job should be done -away with. It is, in fact, so barefaced that Mr. Cunningham would no -longer consent to remain a mere cultivator of official turnips and -cabbages, and accordingly he has resigned the management of the Botanic -Garden in disgust." - -This valuable life was now fast hastening to its close. Twenty-five -years of incessant labour, often performed under the most trying -circumstances, broke down a constitution never particularly robust, and -feeling this to be the case, Allan Cunningham retired from public view -into his own hired house--but only to die. At the early age of 48 years, -perceiving the hand of death to be upon him, he calmly resigned himself -to the will of his Maker, and died as becomes a Christian. He expired on -the 27th of June, 1839. Admiral King, who had stood his firm friend -during the quarter of a century of Cunningham's active life, refers to -his own bereavement in these touching words:--"Alas, poor Allan! He was -a rare specimen, quite a genus of himself; an enthusiast in Australian -geography; devoted to his own science, botany; a warm friend, and an -honest man; and, to crown all, when the time came, he resigned himself -into the arms of his Saviour without a murmur." - - - - -CHAPTER VI. - -CAPTAIN STURT'S THREE EXPEDITIONS. - - -The next hero that steps to the front is Charles Sturt, captain of the -39th regiment, which was stationed at Sydney in the early days of our -history. He stands, beyond all question, in the first rank of Australian -explorers. His single compeer, Sir Thomas Mitchell, was more fortunate -in discovery, but it may be doubted whether he excelled Captain Sturt in -real capability for this work. The future historian will probably decide -the rival claims by bracketing the two names as holding a joint first in -Australian exploration. Naturally brave, resolute, and patient in -labour, Sturt was, moreover, a man of varied culture and extensive -scientific acquirements. As an officer in the army he had been -accustomed to command, and at no time did he experience any difficulty -in managing the several exploring parties under his charge, although -they were mostly drawn from the ordinary convict element at Port -Jackson. This influence over others may have been due to natural tact -even more than to acquired habit, but in either case it proved a -valuable qualification, and served him in good stead with the native -population as well as with his own men. His heroism often brought him -into situations of extreme peril, being sometimes environed with savages -well armed and out of all proportion to the number of his own men; but -his adroitness never failed to extricate himself and party from the most -imminent danger. Scarcely any of our explorers opened up so much of the -interior, or so frequently came into contact with savage tribes, and yet -his humane disposition preserved him all through his career from -shedding the blood of a single individual of that unhappy race which -others, with less excuse, have not scrupled to shoot down like dogs. -When stooping under the weight of years, with a constitution enfeebled -by heroic exertions, and so afflicted with blindness as to be unable to -finish his narrative without the aid of an amanuensis, the veteran -explorer devoutly thanked God that, amid all his critical encounters and -hair-breadth escapes, he had been saved from the necessity of shedding a -drop of blood from the veins of the Australian aborigines. - - -I. - -As early as the year 1818 the Macquarie River had been explored as far -as practicable by John Oxley, the Surveyor-General. This indefatigable -traveller had traced its course into the far interior till it seemed -lost and appeared to terminate in a series of swamps, overgrown with -dense reeds. All his efforts to proceed further westward proved -unavailing, and he turned aside to other work, being under the -impression that he had seen all that was visible of the Macquarie. Like -some others of his time, Oxley had taken up with the idea of a -mediterranean sea which was supposed to cover the interior of Australia; -and such being his opinion, it was natural to fancy he had reached its -margin in those swamps of seemingly indefinite extent into which the -Macquarie poured its flood. During the next ten years Cunningham had -pushed as far north as the Darling Downs, while Hume and Hovell had been -equally successful in forcing their way south to Port Phillip; but out -west no progress was made beyond the goal of Oxley's explorations. But -ignorance of the interior hung like a cloud over the settlement, a vague -feeling of mystery kept curiosity awake, and a general desire began to -be expressed for fresh explorations in that direction. The times, too, -which in other respects happened to be signally disastrous, appeared to -be just as favourable for such an enterprise. A drought of several -years' standing was then devastating the colony; but this misfortune, -which brought ruin to the doors of so many settlers, seemed, strangely -enough, to be a strong recommendation to start an exploring expedition. -It had been Oxley's misfortune to examine the country during an -exceptionally wet season, and it was conjectured that floods had laid -under water the low-lying country on the further reaches of the -Macquarie, and thus interposed a temporary obstruction to the westward -advance of exploration. But now, after a drought of long standing, it -was hoped that the swamps, if not dried up, would at least be so much -reduced as to render the much-desired object more likely to be -accomplished. - -Governor Darling, accordingly, determined on sending out another -expedition. In the all-important question of a leader, he was singularly -fortunate in selecting Captain Sturt. The latter took as his associates -Mr. Hamilton Hume, who had already gained his own laurels in -exploration, Staff-Surgeon M'Leod, two soldiers, and eight convicts. The -instructions received from headquarters were, generally, to follow up -the discoveries of Oxley, to endeavour to ascertain the "fate" of the -Macquarie, and to put forth the utmost effort to penetrate westward to -the furthest possible limit. - -All the material requisites for the expedition were forwarded to -Wellington Valley, which at that time was the outpost of civilization -toward the west, and Sturt was instructed to form his depot at Mount -Harris, which had been Oxley's most advanced encampment ten years -earlier. All preparations being made, the party left Sydney on the 10th -of September, 1828, under the command of Captain Sturt, who only a week -previously had followed the remains of Oxley to the grave. After a few -days of uneventful travelling through the settled territory, Wellington -Valley was reached, and, by the 10th of December, the explorers were -encamped at Mount Harris, the _ne plus ultra_ of their predecessors, and -near the supposed termination of the Macquarie River. Although ten years -had passed away, traces of the old camp were easily found. From the -summit of the mountain a good prospect towards the interior was -obtained, and a tolerably favourable impression left on the minds of -Sturt and Hume. The marshes were seen to be dried up in some places -altogether, and in others very much contracted, and, as the bed of the -river continued to be well defined, there did not appear to be much -difficulty in pushing the limit of discovery considerably beyond the -line at which it had stood for ten years past. - -Following the course of the Macquarie for some miles westward, it was -found to enter a swamp of considerable size. As the sluggish current was -the only clue to lead them through this ambiguous tract of land and -water, it was deemed indispensable to keep to the channel at all hazards -as it meandered through the marshes. For this purpose Sturt here turned -to account a good-sized boat which had, with a wise foresight, been -provided among the travelling requisites. But their progress by water -proved to be less expeditious than it had been on the land, for the -channel wriggled like a snake, and the navigation was provokingly -hindered by snags. Gradually the course of the river became better -defined, but only to lose itself again in a labyrinth of creeks and -marshes. Puzzled and bewildered, with no hope of further progress in the -boat, Sturt and Hume resolved to make separate excursions to the right -and left, each taking his own complement of followers. Many hardships -had to be endured from heat and drought, while the results were not very -considerable. Sturt rode over 200 miles of desert country and was much -fatigued. The principal discoveries made about this time were Oxley's -Table-land and New Year's Creek, mistaken by the explorers for a branch -of the Macquarie, but which was in reality the Bogan River. Eventually -both sections of the expedition reunited and bravely struck out for the -interior, giving defiance to thirst and fatigue, and devoutly wishing -for something to turn up. They had not far to go till this desire was -realized. At a moment when they were not thinking of it, the foremost of -the party found their progress stopped on the bank of one of the -principal rivers in Australia. Its ample channel extended to seventy or -eighty yards in breadth, and its bosom was covered with wild fowl of -every wing. Almost perishing with thirst, both man and beast rushed down -the shelving bank, and in a moment were gulping down the water of the -welcome stream. Never did travellers meet with so "bitter" a -disappointment. "I shall never forget," says Sturt, "the cry of -amazement or the look of terror with which they cried out to inform me -that the river was so salt as to be unfit to drink." The cup of relief -was dashed from their lips, and they were left to the most gloomy -reflections on the future supply of this element. They conjectured, not -unnaturally, that this saline quality must be derived from near contact -with the sea, and anxiously watched for the slightest indications of a -rising or a falling tide, but to no purpose. The cause was afterwards -traced to briny springs in the river's banks, which must have been a -temporary occurrence, for the same inconvenience is not met with now. -The discovery in all other respects was clearly perceived to be of the -utmost value, and went far to annihilate the pet theory of an inland -sea, which thus kept receding further and further from human ken. It was -already evident that this noble river must play a principal part in the -drainage of the western slope of the mountain ranges, and we now know -that it forms the backbone of the river system of eastern Australia and -the highway of intercolonial commerce. Sturt, therefore, paid Governor -Darling no mean compliment in associating his name with this grand -discovery and calling it the Darling River. - -The expedition now followed the lead of the River Darling for about -sixty-six miles. As the country continued to be inhospitable, the blacks -troublesome, and the supply of water precarious, it was resolved to -proceed no further in that direction. A return was accordingly made to -the depot at Mount Harris, which was reached partly by way of New Year's -Creek, or the Bogan River, without any serious mishap being encountered. - -Among the secondary instructions given to the expedition was a direction -to push northwards, if baffled and driven back from the western -interior. They had not failed in that quarter by any means, but as their -work there was finished, and a good supply of provisions left, it was -thought advisable to attempt a journey to the Castlereagh, which was -simply known to exist. In this effort they were again successful. -Having travelled by way of Morriset's Ponds, a sufficient supply of -water was obtained to help them on to the Castlereagh, where, of course, -it was expected to be abundant, seeing that Oxley had been able to cross -it after some delay and with much difficulty. But this anticipation was -doomed to disappointment. The bed of the river was found to be as dry as -dust. The explorers, after a long search, hit upon only one small pool -in the sand which yielded but a temporary supply. The Castlereagh was -now traced towards its supposed junction with the Darling for the -distance of 100 miles, 45 of which were destitute of water. But their -perseverance was rewarded with a second view of the Darling, which was -struck about 90 miles above the point where the original discovery had -been made. The stream here swarmed with fish, but was still salt and -unfit to drink. Having crossed over to the further side, a dash was made -by a short excursion into the interior, which proved, like the other -side, to be a parched wilderness. The state of the country as observed -throughout this journey is thus summed up in Sturt's narrative:--"So -long had the drought continued that the vegetable kingdom was almost -annihilated, and minor vegetation had almost disappeared. In the creeks -weeds had grown and withered and grown again, and young saplings were -now rising in their beds nourished by the moisture that still remained; -but the largest forest trees were drooping, and many were dead. The -emus, with outstretched necks, gasping for breath, searched the -channels of the river for water in vain; and the native dog, so thin -that it could hardly walk, seemed to implore some friendly hand to -despatch it. How the natives subsisted it was difficult to say, but -there was no doubt of the scarcity of food amongst them." Surely this -was no place to loiter in after the work was fairly accomplished. -Contenting themselves with the substantial discoveries already made, the -explorers resolved to return to the haunts of civilization. They soon -found themselves in the lovely Wellington Valley, from which the -expedition had been absent four months and a half. After another journey -through the settled districts, each of the weary wanderers reached his -home, no one having sustained any injury to life or limb during this -long and hazardous enterprise. - - -II. - -Captain Sturt enjoyed but a very limited repose after the fatigues of -the Macquarie expedition. He had returned to Sydney about the beginning -of May, 1829, and in September of the same year his undying enthusiasm -was once more gratified with instructions from headquarters to get ready -for a full exploration of the Murrumbidgee. The Macquarie and the -Lachlan, terminating their respective courses in miserable swamps, or -being believed to do so, had proved delusive guides to the interior of -the continent. But the colonists were resolved to know the heart of -Australia at all hazards. It was still believed that some river must -lead thither, all previous disappointments notwithstanding. The -Murrumbidgee alone remained as an untried experiment, and the little -that was yet known of this river gave hope of a successful result. It -had been first seen by two military officers, Currie and Ovens, on their -discovery of the Monaro country in 1823, and in the year following it -was crossed with difficulty by Hume and Hovell on their journey to Port -Phillip. Here, at last, was a stream something like those of other -countries, rising in the Alpine mountain-land, and flowing with a strong -and rapid current in that direction to which the eyes of explorers were -being so anxiously turned. It was determined, therefore, to equip -another expedition, under the command of Captain Sturt, to explore its -unknown course, for the purpose of ascertaining whether it emptied -itself into an inland sea or found its way to the southern or to the -eastern coast. The party, under Sturt's leadership, consisted of Mr. -George Macleay, son of the Colonial Treasurer, Mr. Frazer, botanist, and -six others. Among other requisites a whale-boat was provided, which -eventually proved of the utmost service to the purpose in view. - -The expedition left Sydney, in full force and high spirits, on the 3rd -November, 1829. Goulburn Plains were reached by the 15th, and on the -25th the Murrumbidgee was struck, not far from Jugiong. The appearance -of the stream was quite up to Sturt's expectations, but the rugged -country on its banks delayed the passage of the drays, and their -progress was not very rapid. In a little time they reached the junction -of the Dumot (Tumut) River, which considerably increased the volume of -the Murrumbidgee, and this addition was accepted as a good omen. In -their course along the river, sometimes on one side and sometimes on the -other, occasional plains were traversed, extending from 400 to 700 acres -in extent, and wholly devoid of timber. Lower down the river one of much -larger size was reached, and here the explorers were not sorry to make a -short break in the journey. The natives called this plain Pondebadgery. -Its size was three and a half by two miles, the soil being rich and the -scenery exquisite. On one side was the bend of the river, here 80 yards -wide, and abounding in fish, one of which was found to weigh 40 pounds. -Hamilton Plains were next discovered, and named after a favourite -staff-surgeon. The expedition, it was believed, had now come within 25 -miles of the most southern point attained by Oxley. This notable -explorer, having reached the swamps of the Lachlan, and being thus -driven to his wits' end, resolved to strike southward and make for the -coast, but want of water determined him to return to the Lachlan, after -weeks of toilsome travel; whereas, had he only pushed on another 25 -miles, the Murrumbidgee would have been discovered, and a new era opened -in Australian exploration. Sturt attempted to connect the surveys of -Oxley's expedition with his own, but was not successful. As travelling -continued to be slow and difficult, it was resolved to launch the boat -and build a skiff to convey the provisions. This was accordingly done, -some of the party being at the same time sent back to Goulburn with the -drays. Seven days having been consumed in these preparations, the -remainder of the party boldly committed themselves to the stream. Sturt -had a strong presentiment that the Murrumbidgee would join some other -river, and hoped to find it navigable for his boat during the remainder -of its course. On the following day a serious mishap occurred. The skiff -was sunk by a snag, and the provisions, after being much damaged, had to -be recovered by diving. The enterprise was a hazardous one at the best. -What with rapids at one time and snags at another, their lives on -several occasions were in real jeopardy. But the longest lane has its -turning, and this tortuous channel also had an end. On the seventh day -after taking to the boat the bed of the river became strangely -contracted, and the current so powerful that, in place of rowing, all -their strength was needed to steady the boat, which was borne along with -the swiftness of an arrow, and in another moment shot forth impetuously -into the broad reach of the finest river in Australia. "It is impossible -for me," says Sturt, "to describe the effect of so instantaneous a -change of circumstances upon us. The boats were allowed to drift along -at pleasure, and such was the force with which we had been shot out of -the Murrumbidgee that we were carried nearly to the bank opposite its -embouchure whilst we continued to gaze in silent astonishment on the -capacious channel we had entered, and when we looked for that by which -we had been led into it we could hardly believe that the insignificant -gap that presented itself to us was indeed the termination of the -beautiful stream whose course we had thus successfully followed. I can -only compare the relief we experienced to that which the seaman feels on -weathering the rock upon which he expected that his vessel would have -struck, to the calm which succeeds moments of feverish anxiety, when the -dread of danger is succeeded by the certainty of escape." This was -indeed a noble river. Its width was 350 feet, its depth not less than -12, and its current was running at the rate of two and a half knots an -hour. The discoverers believed they had now obtained ample reward for -all their toils and trials. This was the same river which had been -discovered and crossed by Hume and Hovell where the town of Albury now -stands, but between that point, where it had been first seen by -civilized man, and the part now visited by Sturt, it had received so -many tributaries as to make it a much larger and, in a sense, another -river. Sturt called it the Murray, after the Imperial Colonial -Secretary, but the original discoverer had named its upper course the -Hume in memory of his father. For a time these names were confined to -the respective parts of the river; and Dr. Lang censured Count -Strzelecki for departing from this usage in his published work. General -practice has now deserted the Doctor and followed the Count. - -The number and persistent hostility of the aborigines formed a serious -obstacle to the progress of this expedition. It was computed that no -fewer than 4,000 were met with on the Murray. They were a low type even -for Australian savages, and did not give evidence of a single redeeming -quality. Addicted to every vice, living in the deepest sink of -bestiality, with bodies in many cases rotting with disgusting diseases, -they presented a loathsome spectacle, and were avoided whenever -possible. Even when not disposed to be openly hostile, their presence at -the camp was a terrible nuisance, and they were generally persuaded to -leave, or hunted away. Sometimes they would rally their forces, and then -prove not only troublesome but really dangerous. Like all savages they -were adepts in deceit, and could wait their opportunity when a purpose -had to be served. By dint of numbers and strategy together, they nearly -succeeded on one occasion in annihilating the expedition. So long as the -river maintained its usual width the boat was tolerably safe in the -middle of the channel, for the spears of the savages were nearly -harmless when they reached the centre of the stream, but their progress -was rapidly approaching a spit which stretched far into the channel, and -this position was seen to be occupied by blacks numbering more than -fifty to one of Sturt's party. The situation was awfully critical, and -in a few minutes more appeared to be positively desperate, for the boat -grounded in shoal-water, and the explorers were at the mercy of the -savages. Happily at this juncture some other natives, who had -previously been friendly to the white men, arrived on the scene, and, -through a somewhat barbarous style of intercession, prevailed with their -sable fraternity in the interest of Sturt, and the murderous attack was -immediately abandoned. - -Travel through an unknown country is usually a series of surprises, and -it was no ordinary one that was now in store for the explorers. The spit -which had threatened to be so disastrous proved to be an embankment -silted up by the entrance of another large river into the Murray. Sturt -had already been looking out for the junction of the Darling, which he -had discovered on the previous expedition; and the question now to be -determined was whether this could be the embouchure of the same river. -He had struck the Darling at two points only a few months before, and at -both places its water had been found too salt to drink; here, however, -it was quite fresh; but in all other respects appearances were in favour -of this river, and the Darling Sturt maintained it to be. For years -after his decision was disputed, and even ridiculed by an authority of -no less weight than Sir Thomas Mitchell. Subsequent exploration finally -settled the question in Sturt's favour. The river was and could have -been no other but the Darling, and thus another important problem of -Australian geography was satisfactorily solved. - -Day after day the boat, with its adventurous crew, glided down the -united stream of the Murray and the Darling. Sometimes they passed over -wide and long reaches, stretching out for many miles, but occasionally, -too, much difficulty was experienced in clearing the rapids. For a -considerable part of the course the banks were high and steep, but -usually picturesque. The country, so far as could be judged from a -passing boat, was mostly of the poorest quality, offering scarcely a -patch likely to reward the labour of the farmer. In one respect Sturt -was the most unfortunate of the explorers. From first to last he hardly -ever had the good luck to hit upon a large tract of fine country, the -Alexandrina district excepted. His mission seemed to be the discovery of -deserts, and of these he made known more than enough to give Australia a -bad name. Such being Sturt's ill-fortune, it is not surprising to find -him indulging in gloomy views regarding the great interior; but even in -these forebodings he fell short of Oxley, who was quite a Cassandra in -his way. In the introduction to his narrative the Captain tries to -account for the predominance of poor land in this outlying region of the -world, and is inclined to attribute it to the want of decaying vegetable -matter, as the trees seldom shed their leaves, and the little that is -supplied from this or other sources being usually destroyed by bush -fires. But Australia is not the desert land which Sturt imagined, or -even portrayed, as will be seen further on. Its richest lands were yet -locked up, and this same explorer was unconsciously preparing the key by -which they were to be opened to private enterprise and the public -benefit. Between the entrance of the Darling and what is now known as -the Great Bend an important tributary was observed to fall in from -either side. The one from the north Sturt called the Rufus, in honour of -Mr. George Macleay, the second on the expedition. Probably the reader -fails to perceive the point of the compliment. It lies just here: Mr. -Macleay possessed a splendid head of red hair, and _rufus_ being the -Latin for red, down it went for the name of the river. The Captain, -notwithstanding his sombre tinge, must have had a quiet vein of humour -in his composition. The other tributary was called the Lindsay, after a -gentleman of that name who was then Acting-Governor of the colony. On -gaining the lower reaches of the Murray it was observed to widen -rapidly, and at the 35 deg. 15' of S. latitude expanded into a magnificent -lake 60 miles long and 50 in width, which was named Alexandrina, in -honour of the young princess, who soon after became Queen Victoria. When -the far end of the lake had been reached, persistent but unavailing -attempts were made to get the boat to sea. Before leaving Sydney it had -been arranged to send a small vessel to St. Vincent Gulf to wait for the -expedition, that being the most likely quarter for it to turn up if its -course should be directed towards the southern coast. The appointed -rendezvous was not far off, and the explorers had every reason to strive -to reach it; but it was to no purpose that they wearied themselves in -the effort. The narrow and tortuous channel which connected Lake -Alexandrina with Encounter Bay was impracticable even for a boat. It -was, therefore, necessary to return by the way they had come. This was -an awfully serious matter. They had now been 32 days in the boat, during -which one-half of the provisions had been consumed. If the depot on the -Murrumbidgee was to be reached on the remaining moiety, it could only be -by rowing up the river in the same period of time they had taken to -glide down the current. This appeared to be scarcely possible, but all -their strength was put forth, and they displayed such pluck and -perseverance as shed enduring lustre on the heroism of Australian -exploration. "Our journeys," writes Sturt, "were short, and the head we -made against the stream but trifling. The men had lost the proper and -muscular jerk with which they once made the waters foam and the oars -bend. Their whole bodies swung with an awkward and laboured motion. -Their arms appeared to be nerveless, and their faces became haggard, -their persons emaciated, their spirits wholly sank--nature was so -completely overcome that, from mere exhaustion, they frequently fell -asleep during their painful and almost unceasing exertions. I became -captious, and found fault where there was no occasion, and lost the -equilibrium of my temper in contemplating the condition of my -companions. No murmur, however, escaped them, nor did any complaint -reach me that was intended to indicate that they had done all they could -do. I frequently heard them in their tent, when they thought I had -dropped asleep, complaining of severe pains and of great exhaustion. 'I -must tell the Captain to-morrow,' some of them would say, 'that I can -pull no more!' To-morrow came, and they pulled on, as if reluctant to -yield to circumstances. Macnamee at last lost his senses. We first -observed this from his incoherent conversation, but eventually from his -manner. He related the most extraordinary tales, and fidgetted about -eternally in the boat." In such a plight did they reach the depot on the -Murrumbidgee. Altogether 88 days were spent in the boat, and the -distance travelled could not have been less than 4,000 miles. The rest -of the journey was performed by easy stages, the party arriving in -Sydney on the 25th of May, after an absence of almost seven months. - - -III. - -The discovery of a rich territory on Lake Alexandrina, was made in 1830, -and before another decade had passed away the settlement of South -Australia was established in this promising region. By a singular -fatality, Sturt, as an explorer, had the infelicity of stumbling -continually upon deserts, or on tracts only a shade better; but the -termination of the Murray, which he had navigated so courageously, -brought him to the borders of an ample area of the richest land in -Australia. In these circumstances it was natural for him to evince a -special fondness for the locality which had been the most fortunate, as -it was also the latest, of his discoveries. The retired explorer -accordingly settled down with his family in this chosen haunt, with the -intention of making his permanent home in the young colony of South -Australia. He received a civil appointment as Surveyor-General, which -enabled him to live in comparative quiet and comfort, and he was highly -respected for his great services to Australia in general. After so many -years of retirement, probably no one expected to hear anything further -of Charles Sturt as an explorer. It could not, therefore, fail to -produce a feeling of surprise when it became known that after fourteen -years' repose he had sought and obtained from Lord Stanley the necessary -requisites for another expedition into the interior. He had again become -fired with his old ambition, and was now covetous of the honour of being -the first European to plant his foot on the centre of Australia. All -things being in readiness for this heroic undertaking, Sturt left -Adelaide on the 15th of August, 1844, with a party of fourteen men, -amply provisioned. He chose the route of the Darling and Murray rivers, -which he proposed to follow till the outskirts of civilization were -reached. The Murray was struck at "Murrundi," the residence at that time -of another noted explorer, Mr. E. J. Eyre, who had recently accomplished -his adventurous journey round the Great Australian Bight, and the river -valley was thereafter traversed as far as the junction of the -Williorara, a locality better known now under the name of the Laidley -Ponds. This place was becoming known to overlanders, and it was hoped -it might prove a suitable site for the first depot; but this expectation -was hardly justified by personal inspection, and it became evident that -the expedition must proceed at once into the interior. Sturt accordingly -gathered his party around him, and, having engaged in appropriate -devotional exercises, in which he committed himself and his men to the -watchful care of Almighty God, launched bravely forth into the perils of -the wilderness. Some distance ahead a mountain chain was visible, to -which the name of Stanley, or Barrier Range, was afterwards given. The -march was at first directed towards these heights, in the hope that a -river might be discovered on the opposite fall which would lead into the -interior. Here again expectation was doomed to disappointment, and the -expedition was forced to proceed along the range, where water alone was -to be found. Gradually the mountains sank into the plains to the -northward, and it was resolved to strike out for the centre from this -point, taking the risk of obtaining a sufficient supply of water at -tolerable intervals. The country traversed in this direction proved to -be cheerless and sterile in the extreme, and the journey was tedious and -trying to a corresponding degree. Nevertheless, the party pressed -forward, doing their best to deserve success. But it was to no purpose. -The country became still more inhospitable, and water utterly failed. It -was evident that the object of the expedition could not be reached by -this route, and Sturt, wearied in body and chafed in spirit, was -compelled to retreat to the mountains on his outward track. This was his -first repulse from the centre of Australia. - -A return was made to the depot, which had fortunately been established -not far from the range, in a lovely oasis in the desert. No reader of -the narrative of the expedition can soon forget the strange incidents of -this depot in the Rocky Glen, which unexpectedly became the prison-house -of the whole party for six months. The supply of water here was good and -abundant, though not inexhaustible; and this advantage was of supreme -importance, as a drought of unparalleled severity was fast closing in -upon the expedition. Being wearied and worn out by the toilsome journey -to the northward, Sturt resolved to give his men a brief breathing time -in this favoured spot; and when this temporary repose was ended he -found, to his consternation, that his retreat was cut off, while it was -equally impossible to advance. Here is his own description of the heat -and misery they had to undergo:--"The tubes of the thermometer burst, -the bullocks pawed the ground to get a cooler footing, the men's shoes -were scorched as if by fire, their finger nails were brittle as glass; -the lead dropped from the pencil, the ink dried in the pen, as Sturt -wrote up his daily journal; the drays almost fell to pieces, the screws -loosened in their boxes, the horn handles of the instruments and their -combs split, the wool on the sheep and their own hair ceased to grow." -Many persistent efforts were made on every side to find a way of -escape; but all to no purpose, for the drought had closed them in as -effectually as a besieging army. There was no help for it but to make -the best of their misfortune until rain came to the rescue. Fortunately -they had sufficient feed and plenty of water for their live stock, and -for such mercies they were truly thankful. As the summer advanced it was -found necessary to seek a partial refuge from the scorching rays of the -sun in an underground chamber, which had been constructed for this -purpose. The imprisonment had, at the same time, a few negative -advantages. For one thing, the completeness of their isolation formed a -sufficient safeguard against the assaults of the barbarous tribes of the -interior; for the same calamity which prevented the one party from -getting away equally prohibited the other from approaching this oasis in -the desert. During the six months' detention only one blackfellow had -been able to put in an appearance, and not till reduced to the last -extremity of hunger and thirst. The poor emaciated creature was -prevailed upon to remain for the present; but, having free access to the -explorers' mutton, he grew tolerably fat in the course of a fortnight, -when, with the usual gratitude of the barbarian, he turned his back upon -his benefactors and took the way that pleased him best. The accounts of -the interior which Sturt received from this and other aborigines he had -previously encountered were disheartening in the extreme, and it was -impossible to abstain from gloomy forebodings during this period of -enforced incarceration. But whether they were to have any more -travelling or not was becoming more and more a matter of bare -probability. The herbage of the valley had become reduced to mere dust, -and the water had diminished so ominously as to make it apparent that, -unless rain fell within a month, the party would certainly find their -graves in the Rocky Glen, as one of them had already done. But the -future had better things in store, and did not longer withhold them. In -one of those sudden changes so characteristic of the Australian climate -the sky assumed its curtain of clouds and burst in a storm of rain, -which deluged the valley. The roar of the rushing water, Sturt avers, -was the sweetest music that ever fell upon his ear. That welcome -thunderstorm was the key which opened the door of the prison and gave -liberty to the captives. - -This happy release was followed by a period of successful -travelling--not, indeed, void of difficulty, but yet without much of -stirring incident. Another depot was formed, which is well known under -the name of the Park. Having enjoyed a short breathing time here, the -expedition again proceeded eastward, and touched on the northern -extremity of Lake Torrens. A survey of this part having been made, in -accordance with special instructions, they returned to the Park Depot, -which was reached just twelve months after Sturt had left Adelaide. As -time was thus rapidly passing away, he now resolved to put forth all his -strength in a bold effort to reach the summit of his ambition and place -his foot on the centre of Australia. Wishing to have as little -encumbrance as possible, he divided his party, and, having picked three -of the best men, started for the goal of his weary journeys, leaving the -remainder in the depot. Day after day this forlorn hope toiled on. Plain -succeeded plain over a dreary expanse of interminable country, redeemed -only by a series of parallel watercourses, which afforded a sufficient -supply of that indispensable element. One important creek was crossed, -but had to be abandoned, as it headed in a wrong direction. Happily, a -sufficient compensation was found in the discovery of another creek, -which they called the Eyre, after the adventurous explorer; and this -godsend in the wilderness they were able to follow for a long distance. -It was after they were compelled to leave it that they entered upon the -stern realities of travel in the untrodden interior. The country now -assumed an aspect so sterile and forbidding as to place it out of -comparison with anything which Sturt, the discoverer of deserts, had -previously witnessed. For a space of 20 miles nothing was found but a -series of sand-ridges succeeding one another with the monotonous -regularity of the waves of the sea. The fatigue which had to be endured -in crossing this inhospitable tract was indescribable. It greatly -weakened the strength of the party, and it was only the hope of soon -meeting a change of country which lured them on. Nor was this -expectation doomed to disappointment, for a change they met with at a -moment's notice. All of a sudden the jaded explorers found a stony -desert springing up beneath their feet and stretching away as far as the -eye could reach, while it included within its ghastly embrace more than -half the horizon. The suddenness of the appearance of this spectre of -desolation struck them mute with surprise and horror. One of Sturt's -attendants was the first to break the silence, which he did by raising -his hands and exclaiming--"Good heavens! did ever man see such country?" -Probably he never did. It is worse even than the African Sahara. It is -beyond the power of words to describe it as it stands in its lone and -dread reality. Sturt's Stony Desert is one unbroken expanse of -desolation, a wilderness of red ferruginous sandstone, undergoing -perpetual disintegration, constituting a natural ruin on a gigantic -scale, without a single redeeming feature. Barrenness has marked this -region for her own, and will ever hold it as a special possession. No -life can subsist within its borders; the foot of the savage is not upon -its wastes, and the whole region is still and silent as the grave. Such -is the dark picture as drawn by the explorer himself. Happily a better -acquaintance has led to a more favourable opinion; though the land of -spinifex, it produces other vegetation of nutritive and even fattening -properties. The Stony Desert proper consists of many patches, but -probably none will be found to be very extensive. The stout hearts of -the explorers quailed but for a moment. Be the consequence what it -might, they determined to go forward, and the first night found them -encamped in the desert without a drop of water. Their only hope of -safety consisted in expeditious travel out of this scene of desolation. -It was found to extend 50 miles, and when the party reached the other -side, they were in a condition which can be more easily conceived than -described. Here again they entered upon a similar belt of sand-ridges -such as they had found flanking the Stony Desert on the other side. -These, unhappily, were succeeded by another region of sand, utterly -destitute of water. Their sufferings, which had formerly been great, -were now intolerable. It became apparent that further progress was -impracticable, and it was just a question whether retreat was -possible--certainly it could not remain so much longer with such heat -and drought as were then prevailing. The necessity of retreat was thus -forced upon them, but it was a very painful one. They had now travelled -more than 400 miles from the depot (and such travelling!) and could they -only have advanced another 150 miles they would have pitched their camp -in the centre of Australia, the darling object of so many heroic -sacrifices. Their reluctance to yield to this last dictate of necessity -was extreme. A member of the expedition has pictured Sturt as he sat on -one of the sand dunes with his face buried in his hands for a whole -hour, while the struggle was going on in his own mind. It was not in -nature, indeed, to yield without a mighty conflict. But inexorable -necessity had to be obeyed notwithstanding, and thus valuable lives -were saved. This was his second repulse from the centre of Australia. -Nothing is more admirable in the character of Sturt than his magnanimity -under adversity. However keenly he may have felt his disappointment, his -mind retained its accustomed tranquillity, and during the retreat he -went on laying down the bearings of his route for the guidance of others -who might follow and obtain the palm he had been compelled to resign. He -reached the depot, where he had left the remainder of his party, on the -2nd October, 1845, having been absent seven weeks and travelled more -than 800 miles. - -After a short period of rest and refreshment this chivalrous explorer, -who amid all his heavy misfortunes was certainly _tenax propositi_, to -the surprise and regret of his party conceived the design of making one -more attempt to reach the centre of Australia. He now determined on -trying the line of the creek he had formerly discovered, and now called -after Strzelecki, in the hope of its giving him sufficient northing to -bring him within a practicable distance of the object for which the -expedition had been sent. Strzelecki's Creek was found to answer his -purpose so long as it lasted, and at its termination led to the -discovery of another of much greater importance. To this new river Sturt -gave the name of Cooper's Creek, after a distinguished South Australian -judge. Unfortunately it flowed nearly east and west, and, therefore, had -to be abandoned in the prosecution of a northern route. Leaving the -plains which extended for some distance from the banks of Cooper's -Creek, Sturt again encountered the ominous sand-ridges of which he had -had sufficient experience on the former journey, and these being -traversed, his hard fate again landed him on the edge of the Stony -Desert. His destiny seemed ever mocking him with deserts, but this was -the last he ever discovered. Having swept the unvarying horizon long and -patiently with his telescope, and finding no break in the terrible -monotony, he turned back for the third and last time from the effort to -accomplish the dream of his life. After so many magnanimous sacrifices, -he finally and for ever waived the palm of reaching the centre of the -continent, which, sixteen years later, was won by a member of the same -expedition, Mr. J. M'Douall Stuart, whose march to the coveted spot -reads in comparison like a holiday excursion. The party now fell back -upon Cooper's Creek, which was traced upwards for a considerable -distance. It is a remarkable circumstance that Sir Thomas Mitchell was -exploring its upper waters about the same time. But nothing could be -more diverse than the two descriptions of the same stream. Mitchell's is -quite _couleur de rose_, and Sturt's has probably been tinged with the -effect of his own misfortunes. While the one gave it the name of -Cooper's Creek, as already noticed, the other called it the Victoria, -after the Queen. This was most unfortunate, as there is another Victoria -River on the west coast. However, both designations are now generally -superseded by the native name of Barcoo. - -It is unnecessary to enter into details respecting the homeward -expedition. The outward track was followed as closely as possible to -Laidley Ponds, and thence to Adelaide. The water was rapidly drying up, -and the retreat had to be conducted like the forced marches of an army. -The men were nearly all ill, more or less, and some of them, being -unable to walk, had to be carried long distances. Latterly, the leader -of the expedition seems to have been the chief sufferer. Long exposure -to the glaring reflection of the sun on the sandy wastes had ruined his -eyesight, and not long afterwards he became permanently blind. Even now -his constitution was completely shattered, and he had to be laid on a -bed of leaves and conveyed from the interior in a cart, from which -sufferings he never fully recovered. Such was Charles Sturt, after -fifteen months' wanderings in the deserts of our country; and henceforth -this heroic and much-enduring man disappeared from the stage of -Australian history, of which he had been long a distinguished ornament. -He retired on a pension of L600 from the South Australian Legislature, -and died at Cheltenham in 1869. - - - - -CHAPTER VII. - -EYRE'S ADVENTUROUS JOURNEY ALONG THE GREAT AUSTRALIAN BIGHT. - - -Edward John Eyre, the son of a Yorkshire clergyman, was born in the year -1815. A youthful passion for the heroic led him to chose the military -profession; but, having failed to obtain a commission, he turned his -attention to the colonies, and came to Sydney in 1833, with the slender -capital of L400. Part of this sum was spent in obtaining colonial -experience, in which he graduated so high as to become the leader in a -new Australian enterprise. The newly founded settlements of Port Phillip -(subsequently Victoria) and South Australia had created a great demand -for stock, all of which had hitherto been carried by sea, and, on -reaching their destination, were sold at famine prices. Young Eyre -conceived the practicability of an overland route, and proceeded to -prove it to a demonstration. In the first of these journeys he took -1,000 sheep and 600 head of cattle from the Monaro district, in New -South Wales, to Adelaide, in South Australia, by way of the Murray -River, and reaped a handsome pecuniary reward in the sale of the stock. -Smaller men followed in the wake of this born adventurer, making -overlanding the most paying game in Australia, till a glut was produced -in the southern markets. Success having followed Eyre in the new path -his enterprise had struck out, he was soon in possession of sufficient -funds to begin squatting on his own account. He purchased the station -"Murrundi," on the Lower Murray, where he resided for several years, -acting also as magistrate and protector of the aborigines. Occasionally, -too, he varied the monotony of bush life by feats of exploration into -the unknown territory, thus keeping alive the spirit of adventure, and -unconsciously qualifying himself for the romantic enterprise which will -transmit his name to distant posterity. - -Up to the year 1840 Western Australia remained completely isolated from -the other colonies, and could be approached only by sea. But as that -country was now being extensively occupied, it was of great importance -also to the settlers in the south to find an overland route from -Adelaide, and it was believed the time had come when a successful effort -could be made. The obstacles which barred the way were enormous, and for -that epoch insuperable; but so little were they suspected by the South -Australians that the proposed journey was regarded as a pleasure -excursion, and it was considered advisable to lighten the expense of the -expedition by sending over a quantity of stock with the pioneer -explorers! The one man who could correct this public delusion was Mr. -Eyre, for he knew enough of the outlying country to feel safe in -predicting the failure of the proposed undertaking. By both speech and -pen he laboured to oppose the misguided enthusiasm, and succeeded in -preventing a certain waste of treasure and a very probable sacrifice of -human life. But it was far from his desire to see so much ardour for -exploration run to waste, and now that the colony was in high feather -for discovery, Eyre made a successful effort to divert it into what he -considered a more profitable channel. Very little was yet known of the -country to the north. Why not strike out in this direction now, and make -a bold attempt to reach the centre of Australia from the city of -Adelaide? One argument alone was sufficient, and with it Eyre prevailed. -He offered to be the leader of the expedition, providing one-third of -its expense from his own pocket. Nothing remained now but to get on with -the preparations. - -On the 20th of June, 1840, a well-provisioned party consisting of eight -persons, with Eyre in command, supported by two other Europeans, Scott -and Baxter, left Adelaide under favourable auspices, and in high hopes -of exploring a large portion of the interior if more cherished results -should prove unattainable; but, as the event proved, only to meet with -crushing disappointment. Lake Torrens was as yet very imperfectly known, -and Eyre, misled by refraction, conceived it to be an immense sheet of -water in the shape of a horse-shoe, within the bend of which he supposed -the expedition was being entrapped. The curve, in reality, was described -by a chain of mud lakes partly covered with water, and partly encrusted -with salt. Passages are now found, at intervals, between these mud -lagoons, but Eyre had not the good luck to hit on one of them. Aroused -by the energy of despair, he next determined to round this impenetrable -barrier, and struck out to the eastward, for an isolated peak which he -called Mount Hopeless. The name corresponded to the reality, for the -outlook from its summit revealed nothing but a barren and burning -desert, which forced the expedition to fall back by a western route to -the southern coast. - -Headquarters now remained for some time at Streaky Bay, on the eastern -shoulder of the Great Australian Bight. Taking a subdivision of the -party, he again and again endeavoured to round the head of the Bight in -the hope of finding better country, which would open a favourable route -towards the interior. Here, too, his expectations were baffled in this -latter respect, and even Eyre had to abandon his pet project in utter -despair. But he was of too dauntless a temperament to brook the idea of -returning to Adelaide without accomplishing something worthy of -remembrance. His next move was competent only to a madman or a hero. It -was a serious attempt to lead an expedition from the encampment on -Fowler's Bay to King George's Sound, along the Great Australian Bight, a -journey of more than 1,500 miles over the worst country under the sun. -He proposed to proceed with his present party unbroken, if Governor -Gawler would allow the government cutter to advance to Cape Arid, a sort -of half-way station, and there await the expedition, with a supply of -provisions. The Governor refused the use of the vessel in connection -with so romantic a proposal, except for the purpose of bringing the -entire party back to Adelaide, and so putting an end to what he must be -excused for regarding as a mad freak. But Eyre was a man born to lead, -not to be led, and determined to stick to his purpose, with help or -without it. Yet, being conscious of the extreme peril that lay on the -very face of the undertaking, he resolved to risk the sacrifice of no -European's life but his own, and made preparations to send home Scott -and Baxter in the cutter. Baxter, an old and faithful servant, who had -been overseer on Eyre's station, persisted in clinging to his master, -whether for life or death. And, alas! it was for the latter. The party, -as thus reduced, consisted of only two white men and three black boys, -one being an old favourite named Wylie. A few horses and sheep, together -with a limited supply of provisions, made up the sum total of the -expedition. - -Never before was an enterprise of such overwhelming difficulty engaged -in by reasonable men. This section of the southern coast was yet -scarcely known. The navigators Nuyts and Flinders had cruised over its -waters, gazing with mysterious awe on its weather-beaten cliffs, rising -to the precipitous height of 400 or even 600 feet above the water. At -intervals along the base the waves had undermined this Titanic sea-wall, -causing it to fall in many a yawning breach, the _debris_ of which -completely obstructed the passage between the rocks and the sea in the -few places where such a convenience might have been previously possible. -The crown of these cliffs had not yet been trodden by the white man's -foot, and the reports of the sparse aborigines were enough to freeze the -ardour of the most adventurous in the heroic age of Australian -exploration. On this border-land of earth and sea contending winds had -deposited the dust particles borne on their wings, and rolled them -together in heaps, to be met with at long and dreary intervals. These -sand-hills, resting on a limestone formation, retained at their base a -small supply of water, to be reached only by painstaking, and often -painful, digging. For the greater part of the way no other water was to -be found on this barren and inhospitable region of parched-up Australia. - -From Cape Adieu, where leave had been taken of the cutter and its -passengers, to the first stage at the head of the Bight, the -difficulties were manageable--for this part of the route had been -traversed and supplies hidden for future use--but, this over, they had -to be faced in all their appalling magnitude. The sand-hills were found -to be so far apart that it was impossible to bring the stock from the -one to the other without intermediate supply. When the sheep, and -sometimes the horses, could travel no further, one or two of the parties -had to be left in charge while others pushed forward in search of water, -and then returned with what supply they could bring, when the animals -were driven on to the station. The discouragements were infinite and the -labour superhuman. Eyre alone was equal to the strain, and he owed it -more to his indomitable spirit than to his natural strength. It was a -sore trial to perceive even Baxter to be giving way and wishing to -return; but as this seemed to threaten certain death, he kept to his -resolution, and persevered against all hope of a successful issue, so -desperate had the aspect of affairs now become. The few sheep having -dwindled away with ominous rapidity, it had become necessary to kill -several of the horses and eat them, although they furnished little but -skin and bone. Matters having come to extremities, the baggage had to be -reduced to the smallest proportions, and most of the valuables were -thrown away in the wilderness to lighten the burden of carriage. Their -sufferings from want of water now became indescribable. Man and beast -were compelled to travel three or four days without getting a mouthful. -With only one exception, none had been found but in the sand-hills for -the distance of 800 miles, and how hard it was to reach it there has -already been described. Even the dew on the sparse patches of grass was -put in requisition, as may be learned from the following extract from -the journal of the expedition:--"Leaving the overseer to search for the -horses, which had strayed, I took a sponge and went to try to collect -some of the dew which was hanging in spangles on the grass and shrubs. -Brushing these with the sponge, I squeezed it, when saturated, into a -quart-pot, which in an hour's time I filled with water. The native boys -were occupied in the same way, and, by using a handful of fine grass -instead of a sponge, they collected about a quart among them. Having -taken the water to the camp and made it into tea, we divided it amongst -the party, and never was a meal more truly relished, although we ate the -last morsel of bread we had with us, and none knew when we might again -enjoy either a drink of water or a mouthful of bread. We had now -demonstrated the practicability of collecting water from the dew. I had -often heard from the natives that they were in the habit of practising -this plan, but had never before actually witnessed its adoption." - -But the climax was yet to come. To privations and difficulties the crime -of treachery and murder was now to be added. Two of the blacks proved -unfaithful, and shot the overseer, Baxter, in cold blood, apparently for -the purpose of deserting with as much of the provisions as they could -lay hands on, perhaps after the murder of the leader himself. The words -in which Eyre describes the anguish of his situation exceed the highest -efforts of tragedy, and show how fact may become stranger than fiction. -"The night was cold, and the wind blowing hard from the south-west, -whilst scud and nimbus were passing very rapidly by the moon. The horses -fed tolerably well, but rambled a good deal, threading in and out among -the many belts of scrub which intersected the grassy openings, until I -scarcely knew exactly where our camp was, the fires having apparently -expired some time ago. It was now half-past ten, and I headed the horses -back in the direction in which I thought the camp lay, that I might be -ready to call the overseer to relieve me at eleven. Whilst thus engaged -and looking steadfastly around among the scrub to see if I could -anywhere detect the embers of our fires, I was startled by a sudden -flash, followed by the report of a gun, not a quarter of a mile away -from me. Imagining that the overseer had mistaken the hour of the night, -and not being able to find me or the horses had taken that method to -attract my attention, I immediately called out, but no answer was -returned. I got alarmed, and, leaving the horses, hurried up towards the -camp as rapidly as I could. About a hundred yards from it I met the King -George's Sound native (Wylie) running towards me, and in great haste and -alarm, crying out, 'Oh, Massa! oh, Massa, come here!' but could gain no -information from him as to what had occurred. Upon reaching the -encampment, which I did in about five minutes after the shot was fired, -I was horror-struck to find my poor overseer lying on the ground -weltering in his blood, and in the last agonies of death. Glancing -hastily around the camp, I found it deserted by the two younger native -boys, whilst the scattered fragments of our baggage, which I left -carefully piled under the oilskin, lay thrown about in wild disorder, -and at once revealed the cause of the harrowing scene before me. Upon -raising the body of my faithful but ill-fated follower, I found that he -was beyond all human aid; he had been shot through the left breast with -a ball; the last convulsions of death were upon him, and he expired -almost immediately after our arrival. The frightful, the appalling truth -now burst upon me that I was alone in the desert. He who had faithfully -served me for many years, who had followed my fortunes in adversity and -prosperity, who had accompanied me in all my wanderings, and whose -attachment to me had been his sole inducement to remain with me in this -last and, to him, alas! fatal journey, was now no more. For an instant, -I was almost tempted to wish that it had been my fate instead of his. -The horrors of my situation glared upon me in such startling reality as -for an instant almost to paralyze the mind. At the dead hour of night, -in the wildest and most inhospitable wastes of Australia, with the -fierce wind raging in unison with the scene of violence before me, I was -left with a single native, whose fidelity I could not rely upon, and who -for aught I knew might be in league with the other two, who were perhaps -even now lurking about with the view of taking away my life as they had -done that of the overseer. Three days had passed away since we left the -last water, and it was very doubtful when we might find any more. Six -hundred miles of country had to be traversed before I could hope to -obtain the slightest aid or assistance of any kind, whilst I knew not -that a single drop of water or an ounce of flour had been left by these -murderers from a stock that had previously been so small. Though years -have now passed away since the enactment of this tragedy, the dreadful -horrors of that time and scene are recalled before me with frightful -vividness, and make me shudder when I think of them. A lifetime was -crowded into those few short hours, and death alone may blot out the -impression they produced." - -To give decent burial to the body of a friend whom death only could -separate would have been a melancholy satisfaction, but even this slight -tribute of affection was denied by the situation. No grave could be dug, -for sheet-rock, stretching far and wide, formed the adamantine pavement -of this horrible place. Wrapt in a blanket for its winding-sheet, the -corpse was left in this lonely wilderness, where it lay undisturbed till -it was stumbled on quite recently by the district mailman. On a calmer -view of the position, Eyre discovered that the ruffians had left him -only forty pounds of flour, a little tea and sugar, and four gallons of -water. Such was the provision for two men against a journey of 600 -miles! Nothing, however, could be gained by delay in this awful scene, -and every consideration counselled an immediate departure--most of all, -the knowledge that the two murderers were skulking in the neighbourhood -with the probable design of taking Eyre's life. A start was made without -further loss of time. Another horse was killed for food, but the animal -having been poor and sickly, its flesh did not agree with them, and ill -health supervened. When thus brought face to face with the last -extremity, a sudden vision of deliverance nearly overwhelmed them with -joy. Coming unexpectedly on an opening in the Bight, first a boat and -then a ship at anchor rushed upon the view. A closer acquaintance proved -the apparition to be a French whaling-vessel, under the command of -Captain Rossiter, whose name is fittingly perpetuated in the same little -bay. The unlooked-for visitors were hospitably entertained and lodged -for twelve days in the ship, till they were sufficiently recruited for -the remainder of the journey. With renewed strength, and a fresh supply -of provisions, the march through the desert was once more resumed, for -the indomitable explorer would not even yet abandon the project. Though -hardship had now lost its sting, more difficulties had yet to be -encountered than might have been expected, but they were of a different -kind from the preceding. Water became only too plentiful, for a wet -season had set in, and the travellers had often to wade rather than to -walk. But the end of this terrible journey drew on apace. To their -unspeakable joy the mountains on the further side of King George's Sound -began to loom in the distance, and Wylie, who was a native of that -district, now for the first time showed some confidence in his leader, -whom he never expected to bring him back to his home. The welcome sight, -in truth, inspired both the black and the white man with fresh life; for -they had to make only one more effort, and, this over, their weary feet -found rest in the hospitable settlement of Albany. The heroic endurance -displayed during this journey stands without a parallel in history, but -it led to nothing but a barren triumph over stupendous difficulties. Had -Eyre kept further inland he would have found a better route and opened -up a more profitable country. This discovery had to wait for another and -more fortunate explorer. The present expedition, by hugging the shore, -travelled over a tract of country that was seen to be utterly useless -for the wants of civilization. So patent was this fact to Mr. Eyre -himself that he justified the publication of his narrative by the -strange argument that no one had traversed this wilderness before and he -was perfectly sure none would ever do it again. - -Henceforward Edward John Eyre was known to fame--but not to fortune. -Being subsequently appointed Governor of Jamaica, he fell heir to an -upheaval of disorder, which culminated in open rebellion. This -insurrection Eyre put down with an iron hand. Some accused him of -needless severity, while others justified his conduct as an act of -imperative necessity. The hero-worshipper, the late Thomas Carlyle, -defended him bravely, and was seconded by many sympathizers of less -note, who came to the rescue with pen and purse. This perilous journey -of former years was justly pleaded in Mr. Eyre's favour, but his friends -weakened their case by confounding the Great Australian Bight with the -Gulf of Carpentaria! Though exonerated by a commission of inquiry, the -Governor was recalled, and for four years thereafter harassed by a -bitter prosecution, which he probably found harder to endure than his -terrible journey on the Great Australian Bight. - - - - -CHAPTER VIII. - -SIR THOMAS MITCHELL'S FOUR EXPEDITIONS. - - -This eminent explorer was a native of Scotland, having been born at -Craigend, Stirlingshire, in 1792. He chose the army for his profession, -and served under Wellington, in the Peninsular war, from 1808 till its -close. His career appears to have been a most creditable one. He had a -hand in laying out the famous Torres Vedras lines, which gave a fatal -check to the ambition of Napoleon. Mitchell left the service with the -rank of Major, receiving also a medal and five clasps. Having emigrated -to New South Wales, he was appointed Surveyor-General, an office which -had fallen vacant by the death of Mr. John Oxley. Being an active and -adventurous man, he threw himself, heart and soul, into the cause of -exploration. Mitchell was the most successful of all the explorers, and -had the good fortune to open up the magnificent territory which now -forms the colony of Victoria. He was the leader of four great -expeditions, which shall now be briefly related in the order of their -occurrence. - - -I. - -Among the notabilities of the old convict days there are not many who -will be longer remembered than George Clarke, better known, in his own -time, as "George the Barber." This runaway convict having taken to -bushranging and cattle-stealing as naturally as the duck makes for the -water, had also shown himself an adept in the arts which elude the -detective. Passing beyond the bounds of settlement, which had now -extended 300 miles to the north of Sydney, he fixed his headquarters and -erected a stockyard for stolen cattle on the further side of the -Liverpool Plains. Here he abjured the last vestige of civilization and -associated himself with the aborigines, having become a conformist in -the first degree. He doffed every article of clothing, blackened his -skin, and even scarified his flesh, in order to appear a naked savage -pure and simple. But the compliment does not seem to have been -reciprocated. He was successful, indeed, in gaining the hearts of two -black gins, who followed him and his fortunes as far as fate would -permit; but the sable brotherhood did not take kindly to the intruder. -Hearing he was wanted by the police to answer for his cattle-stealing -propensities, they lent a hand to the progress of civilization, and -delivered up this spurious brother, who was forthwith lodged in Bathurst -gaol. Of all the men in the world this runaway convict, who had enjoyed -the sweets of liberty, both in the savage and the civilized life, would -be the last to brook the restraints of confinement, and it is no -surprise to find him casting about for the means of deliverance. The -most feasible way of accomplishing his object undoubtedly lay in the -plan which his native cunning led him to adopt. Popular excitement was -then at fever heat on the exploration of the unknown territory. Sturt -had recently returned from an expedition in which he had opened up more -than 2,000 miles of country on the lower Murrumbidgee and Murray rivers, -and had, consequently, given a great impulse to the exploring -enterprise. Now was the time for "George the Barber" to tell his secret -from Bathurst gaol. Having passed beyond a range of mountains to the -northward of the Liverpool Plains, so his story ran, he had discovered a -magnificent river which the natives called the "Kindur." It traversed a -splendid country, was itself navigable throughout, and having followed -its course on two different occasions, it led him through the heart of -Australia to the north coast, without ever turning to the south. Men -readily believe what they wish to be true, and such a river as here -described was the very thing wanted in order to open up a waterway to -Carpentaria. The story accordingly commanded general attention, and most -people believed it contained a sufficient degree of verisimilitude to -warrant the expense of a special exploring expedition to put it to the -proof. - -Major Mitchell was now in the place where he would feel the impulse for -exploration with all its force, and so fell in most heartily with the -popular excitement. Putting the most favourable construction upon the -"Barber's" story, and believing that it contained, at least, a -substratum of truth, he expressed his readiness to go in search of the -"Kindur," provided the Acting-Governor, Sir Patrick Lindsay, would -supply the necessary outfit. This request was readily granted, and Major -Mitchell left Sydney on the 24th November, 1831, to run a wild-goose -chase or make a great discovery. It was not necessary to organize the -expedition before starting, as the country was now settled so far to the -north, and final arrangements were accordingly postponed till a nearer -approach was made to the unknown land. The early part of the journey was -pretty much in the style of a pleasure excursion. The would-be explorer -of the "Kindur" passed northward to Parramatta, where he was shown, as a -great novelty, the first olive-tree planted in the colony. The -Hawkesbury was crossed at Wiseman's Ferry, and in due course the -Wollombi, a tributary of the Hunter, was reached. Soon after he -proceeded to make up his party, which, when completed, consisted of two -gentlemen volunteers, named White and Finch, and fifteen convicts, all -of whom, the leader avers, were ready to face fire and water in the hope -of regaining that liberty which they had forfeited by transgressing the -laws of their country. The expedition having been thus organized and -supplied with every requisite, moved northward, passing near -Muswellbrook, and crossing the Hunter without meeting with anything -particularly worthy of notice, until they came upon the burning hill of -Wingen, which attracted their attention as a remarkable curiosity. It is -not a volcano, but a mountain of coal or shale, on fire underneath, -which sends forth volumes of smoke through the rents in its surface. On -the 5th of December the ascent of the Liverpool Range was gained and a -commanding view of the plains obtained. This fine tract of country had -been discovered by Oxley, explored by Cunningham, and was now found to -be largely occupied by pioneer squatters. The Peel River was struck at -Wallamoul, about two miles above the spot where Oxley had first crossed -it, and here was found the last station, owned by a squatter of the name -of Brown, and containing 1,600 head of cattle. The route of the -expedition was now directed towards the lower course of the river, where -it becomes known under the native name of the Namoi. The euphonious -"Namoi" was music to the ear of Mitchell, for the bushranger had spoken -of a river of this name, and was the first to make it known under this -designation. The Major was gratified to find this slight confirmation of -the story that had brought him so far from home, and hastened to make it -known to the authorities in Sydney, that "George the Barber" might have -the benefit; and a real benefit it was, for it saved him from the -gallows. Having failed to obtain his liberty when his information was -acted on, this noted criminal, in his desperation, succeeded in sawing -the irons off his feet, and in this way made good his escape from -incarceration. But the law has long arms, and the "Barber," being again -clutched within their iron grasp, was condemned to suffer the last -penalty, from which doom he was saved by the timely arrival of -Mitchell's letter. - -The _terra incognita_ now was entered upon, and the first object that -drew the attention of the explorers was the old stockyard of the -bushranger, which, doubtless, was too near a neighbour of Brown's cattle -station. About two miles distant the Pic of Tangulda rose to a -conspicuous elevation. This was one of the landmarks of the prisoner's -tale. The "Kindur" was to be reached by proceeding north-east, over a -range of mountains which were visible from this position. Mitchell -directed his march accordingly; but, after several days of distressing -travel, found the mountains to be impracticable, and was compelled to -return to his former camp. Now, for the first time, grave doubts began -to fill his mind regarding the truth of the convict's story. No other -course being open, he determined on launching a canvas boat and making -an effort to sail down the Namoi, to see what fortune had in store for -him. The attempt was scarcely well made when it had to be abandoned, on -account of snags and shoals in the stream; but the change of position -was sufficient to make it apparent that the mountain-chain which could -not be crossed might now be turned. This achievement was next -successfully accomplished, and Mitchell at length found himself on their -northern flanks. These mountains bore the native name of "Nundawar," -and, in respect of their outward appearance, had been described -sufficiently well by the bushranger. But now came the crucial test of -his truth or falsehood. According to the same story the "Kindur" was the -first river to be reached beyond these mountains, and, one way or other, -the question could not now have long to wait for an answer. A river of -some kind was the very thing wanted by the explorers, for they had -passed through a rugged and waterless country. Were they now, at last, -to drop upon the "Kindur?" Such a discovery would have been doubly -welcome, for it would have relieved them from present distress, and -proved the goal of a journey which, it was hoped, would place the laurel -crown on the brow of the Major and sound the trumpet of freedom to his -fifteen convict attendants. The 9th of January arrived, and this day was -destined to feast the eyes of the weary travellers with the sudden -appearance of a noble river, broader and deeper than the Namoi, and one -of which Australia might well be proud. Was this the "Kindur" at last? -Not for a moment. It flowed in the wrong direction, and lost much of its -volume in its downward course; and Mitchell soon satisfied himself that -it was nothing else than one of the many tributaries of the Darling. In -fact, it had not the merit of an original discovery. This was the -Gwydir, which had been crossed long ago by Allan Cunningham. Mitchell -turned from it in disgust and made for the north, in the hope of hitting -upon some discovery really worthy of the expedition. He was rewarded, in -so far that he discovered an important river, called the Karaula by the -natives, but now better known as the Macintyre. Further exploration -proved this stream to be one of the head-waters of the Darling, and, -therefore, useless for the purpose of one who was seeking a -water-channel to the Gulf of Carpentaria. - -Mitchell's only hope of retrieving himself now lay in crossing the -Darling, and making an inroad upon the interior; but the feasibility of -this course was suspended on a doubtful contingency. Fearing his -provisions would not hold out so long as would be necessary, he had, -before leaving the Peel River, sent Finch back to the Hunter district -for fresh supplies, and the future of the expedition depended on this -forlorn hope. Finch returned about the time expected, but only to bring -a tale of disaster instead of a supply of provisions. All had gone well -till they had got beyond the Liverpool Plains, when water began to fail -them. Finch had gone on to search the country in advance, and on -returning found his party murdered and the camp sacked. This was a -crowning calamity. Mitchell, of course, now saw that it would be -impossible to proceed further, and it was even very doubtful whether -they could return in safety. A wet season was setting in, and 200 miles -of flooded country lay between them and their homes. Their return, -accordingly, was conducted after the manner of a retreating army, and -the similitude was all the more striking because they were harassed by -hostile tribes of aborigines. But the settled districts were soon -reached, and there was no further difficulty in making Port Jackson. It -was, indeed, a disappointment to the authorities, as it had been to -Mitchell, to find they had been duped by "George the Barber." Yet the -expedition had opened up a vast extent of pastoral country, and on the -whole was fairly successful as an exploring enterprise. - - -II. - -Major Mitchell, full of enterprise, was again in the field of discovery -in 1835. His failure in the affair of the "Kindur" had not discouraged -him, and the experience incidentally gained was an excellent preparation -for the more arduous work of the future. Public attention had again -turned from the north to the westward of the colony, and another attempt -was to be made to lift the veil which still shrouded so much of the -interior. At the request of the British Government, Mitchell willingly -undertook the conduct of an expedition to the Bogan and the Darling, in -order to set at rest some geographical problems which were still -attached to the course of these rivers. - -More than any of the other explorers, Mitchell believed in large and -liberally equipped expeditions, here probably erring by excess, and he -resolved that the present should not be deficient in either respect. The -party, all told, consisted of twenty-four persons--Major Mitchell as -leader, Richard Cunningham, brother to the more celebrated Allan -Cunningham, botanist and explorer, a young surveyor of the name of -Larmer, and twenty-one convict servants, nine of whom had been -connected with the "Kindur" search. The material resources consisted of -two boats, several drays, a good contingent of horses, bullocks, and -sheep, together with an ample supply of provisions. The start was made -from Parramatta on the 9th of March; but the work of exploration proper -did not commence till they reached Buree, a frontier station near Mount -Canobolas, about 170 miles from Sydney. - -Having taken his observations from the summit of this mountain, Mitchell -fixed his direction on the bearing of 60 deg. west of north, judging he -would thus find a practicable route, and strike the Bogan somewhere in -its upper course. The result answered his expectation. On the 13th of -April he crossed the Goobang, a tributary of the Lachlan, and in two -days more the Bogan was reached. Here a most lamentable event occurred, -which cast its dark shadow over the whole of their future wanderings. -Richard Cunningham, the botanist of the expedition, had been too much in -the practice of leaving the party for the "pursuit of flora," and now -failed to find his way back to the camp. For a long time no trace of the -missing man could be found; but after a most diligent search tracks both -of himself and of his horse were observed. These were followed for 70 -miles, but to no purpose; distressing suspicions also began to arise, -pointing to foul play on the part of the natives. But nothing definite -could be arrived at, and after a fortnight's fruitless searching and -tracking, the expedition was sorrowfully compelled to hold on its -course. Subsequently it was decisively ascertained that Cunningham, -ready to perish of hunger and thirst, had sought refuge with the blacks, -by four of whom he was savagely murdered in his sleep. A full -investigation was made by Captain Zouch, who had been despatched from -Sydney on this business. He succeeded in discovering the dead man's -bones, which were decently interred, and a suitable monument was erected -on the scene of this diabolical murder. Three of the perpetrators of the -crime were also arrested; but, through the remissness of the constable -in charge, two of them managed to escape. - -The explorers still kept the line of the Bogan, moving off and on to its -banks according as the want of water, or the desire to cut off an -observed elbow, more particularly directed their course. By the 20th of -May the expedition had arrived at the Pink Hills, where the best grazing -land was met with since the commencement of the journey. From this point -Oxley's Table-land, a well-known landmark with former explorers, was -plainly visible. On the 25th they were gratified by the discovery of the -junction of the Bogan and the Darling rivers. The former of these, -though only now brought into prominent notice, had been known to exist -for many years past. It was first discovered by Hamilton Hume in -connection with Sturt's expedition to the Macquarie, and was then called -New Year's Creek. Much later its upper course had been traced by a Mr. -Dixon for 67 miles, and the exploration of its whole length was thus -completed by Major Mitchell in 1835. The Bogan was found to head from -the Hervey Range, and this explorer had the good fortune to discover its -termination in the Darling River after a sinuous course of 250 miles. At -best it is only a third or fourth-class river; but, as it traverses a -tolerably good grazing country, its basin has become fully occupied for -squatting purposes. - -The junction of these two rivers now became an important landmark for -the remainder of the journey, and the place has ever since played a -conspicuous part in the opening up and settlement of the back country. -The position consists of an elevated plateau overlooking a reach of the -river a mile and a half in length, with a hill situated near a sharp -turn at the lower end of the reach. Having now travelled 500 miles from -Sydney, the whole party were in need of rest, and Mitchell wisely -resolved on fixing a permanent depot here. Intending to leave some of -his men while engaged in the exploration of the lower course of the -river, he considered it an act of prudence to enclose the depot with a -stockade, as he was not yet sufficiently acquainted with the natives of -the Darling to trust them with any degree of confidence. A stockade was -accordingly constructed of rough logs, and to this, his first attempt at -bush fortification, he gave the name of Fort Bourke, in compliment to -the Governor of the colony. Such was the beginning of Bourke, the now -famous centre of our back country settlement, and the present terminus -of the Great Western Railway of New South Wales. - -Two boats, as already noticed, had been brought all the way from Sydney -as part of the furniture of the expedition, and the time seemed to have -arrived for their being turned to account. Being found to be in perfect -order they were forthwith christened the _Discovery_ and the -_Resolution_, and launched on the feeble current of the Darling. But -hope was excited to no purpose. The stream was too low and the channel -too much impeded to permit of navigation even with the smallest craft, -and the undertaking was no sooner initiated than it had to be abandoned. -The former plan of the expedition had again to be adopted, and the -progress on the Darling was very similar to what it had been on the -Bogan. The country traversed was found to be inferior as a whole, only -moderately valuable for pastoral purposes, and nowhere adapted for -agriculture to any considerable extent. The incidents in this part of -the march were neither numerous nor striking. The usual privations -arising from want of water were hardly known, as the explorers were -never far from the banks of a running stream which takes rank among the -foremost in Australia. The saltness of the Darling, which proved such an -inconvenience to Sturt, was found by Mitchell to exist in a much less -degree, which shows that it must have arisen in part from temporary -causes. - -If Mitchell's narrative is not so rich in thrilling incidents as a -sensational reader could have wished, it is especially valuable as a -record of the manners and customs of the aborigines of those districts, -as they appeared to the eye of this intelligent and observant traveller. -Sometimes the description is so life-like that we are almost cheated -into the belief of a visible reality, and it is impossible to be -indifferent to the exhibition, although the whole race has now well-nigh -passed away. The account is very generally the reverse of Captain -Sturt's, notwithstanding that both of these eminent explorers must have -had in view substantially the same tribes. The judicious reader will -scarcely be disposed to agree unreservedly with the Captain when he -depicts them as the "most miserable wretches" under the sun; neither -will he care to subscribe to the unqualified language of the Major, who -describes them as "happy" savages. Truth seldom lies in extremes, and it -is to the utmost extreme that these authorities have gone, each in his -own way, as determined largely, perhaps, by his idiosyncrasies. But the -ethnologist, in particular, will be thankful for the literary photograph -of these vanishing tribes which has been preserved in the pages of this -journal. The general reader, too, will gladly observe some curious -incidents of aboriginal life in the interior of Australia. Mitchell -specially notices their adroitness in procuring the wild honey of the -bush. With great tact they first attached a piece of light down to the -bee, which, on being released, would be sure to make straight for its -nest. To discover this secret, the blackfellow engaged in hot pursuit; -and, as his eye must be constantly on the tiny insect, there would, of -course, be frequent tripping, and many an awkward fall on mother earth, -but the excitement was too great to permit of anything short of a -serious accident being noticed. Another characteristic of the untutored -savages was their unwillingness to recognize the right of a white man to -hold property--it was all _meum_ and no _tuum_ with them. For a while -Mitchell tried to satisfy them with liberal gifts, but giving only -increased the craving for more; and, what was worse, this liberality on -the part of the strangers began to be construed as an indication of -fear, and then the demands were more impudently pressed than ever, which -caused these gifts, very properly, to cease altogether. And now their -thieving propensities broke out beyond all bounds. Mitchell, like Apollo -when Mercury filched his bow, hardly knew whether to smile at the -adroitness of the thief or wax indignant at the loss of his property. -The cunning, craft, and success of these barbarians went almost beyond -credence. Not only their hands were busy, but their very feet and toes -picked up the strangers' tools as they walked over them. This latter -practice was considered a real accomplishment, and these savages seemed -to have a genuine contempt for the clumsy white-fellows who could not -use their "feet fingers." Barring this troublesome propensity, the -native tribes did not cause much inconvenience to the expedition until -it got as far down the Darling as the Menindie quarter, where a serious -embroglio occurred, which occasioned the shedding of aboriginal blood, -and compelled the explorers to desist from the further prosecution of -their journey. For this untoward event, however, Mitchell was not to -blame, and he regretted he had to deal with convicts who were so -difficult to control. The local tribes having thus become exasperated, a -somewhat hasty retreat had to be made to the central depot at Bourke, -after 300 miles of the Darling had been traversed, and little doubt -being left as to the remainder of the course till the junction with the -Murray. - - -III. - -The exploration and settlement of Victoria are quite recent events in -the history of Australia. Important discoveries had been made on the -seaboard by Bass and Flinders in the close of the last and the beginning -of the present century; but they had no effect in attracting population. -Hume and Hovell made an overland journey from Lake George to Port -Phillip in 1824, and brought to light an enormous extent of fine -territory near the southern coast; yet the country remained unvisited by -civilization for another ten or twelve years. The original settlers came -from Tasmania, and were crowded out of the old rather than attracted to -the new home. The first arrival seems to have been Edward Henty, who -effected a settlement at Portland Bay in 1834. Next year John Batman, a -native of Parramatta, who had latterly resided in Tasmania, crossed -Bass' Strait, and fixed his headquarters on Indented Head. He bargained -with the natives for 600,000 acres of the best land in exchange for a -few blankets, knives, and such-like commodities. He was followed in -three months' time by another of the name of Fawkner, who, leaving "King -John" in undisputed possession of Indented Head, pitched his tent on the -site of the present city of Melbourne. - -So much and nothing more was accomplished in the settlement of the -premier part of Australia, when Major Mitchell crossed the Murray, and -astonished the world by a series of splendid discoveries in what is now -the famous colony of Victoria. The surprise was the more telling on this -account, that the revelations resulted from a mere accident, and were -aside from the proper object of the expedition. The explorations of -Mitchell during the preceding year, which had so largely supplemented -the earlier discoveries of Sturt on the Darling, very naturally excited -public interest, and created a desire for another expedition. The River -Darling was now pretty well known, with the exception of about 200 miles -from Menindie to the junction with the Murray; but this latter river was -not yet explored higher up than its confluence with the Murrumbidgee. -These two objects being now to be prosecuted, instructions were given to -Major Mitchell to organize another expedition; and into this project, it -is needless to say, the gallant Major entered with his accustomed -enthusiasm. - -This expedition, numbering twenty-four persons, amply provisioned, and -destined to be the most fortunate in the annals of exploration, left the -rendezvous near Mount Canobolas, on the outskirts of settlement, on the -17th of March, 1836. The first movement was made towards the old -position at the station of Buree, and then the route was followed to the -Lachlan. This river, as well as the Murrumbidgee, which was reached on -its lower course, had previously been explored, and Mitchell had not -much to add that was new or striking. When he conceived he was -approaching the junction with the Murray, a depot was formed beside an -excellent sheet of water, to which the name of Lake Stapylton was given. -Mitchell now divided his party, and, taking an escort, struck out boldly -for the Darling, which was still 100 miles distant. The usual -difficulties of this kind of travelling were encountered; but no one -knew better how to overcome them than this intrepid explorer. The -junction of the two chief rivers of Australia was reached without loss -of time--a position which Mitchell says he recognized at once from a -drawing of Captain Sturt's. This compliment Sturt duly acknowledged, -remarking at the same time that it was the only praise he had ever -received from Sir Thomas Mitchell, and he was afraid in this case it was -not very well deserved, as the drawing had been made from a verbal -description, and by an Edinburgh clergyman who had never visited -Australia! The expedition was in great danger here from an exasperated -tribe of blacks who kept hanging upon the rear, and only waited for an -opportunity to strike a decisive blow. The aspect of matters was so -threatening that Mitchell resolved to abandon the Darling, and fall back -upon his alternative instructions, which directed him to explore the -upper courses of the Murray. But the hostile tribe was now between his -own party and the depot, which was 100 miles away. Their number was -rapidly increasing, and their attitude growing more menacing every day. -A conflict could not be much longer averted, and Mitchell, as a military -man, was not willing to allow the enemy to choose the most suitable time -for the attack. The men under his command appear to have understood his -intentions, and, without waiting for orders, fired upon the tribe. Seven -were killed, and the multitude dispersed. It was a severe remedy, but -also a very effectual one, for this tribe never attempted to cause them -further annoyance. - -On arriving at Lake Stapylton, Mitchell had the satisfaction of finding -that the depot had been unmolested, a circumstance which relieved his -mind from considerable anxiety. The situation of the depot was -ascertained to be about ten miles from the junction of the Murrumbidgee -with the Murray. The latter was crossed about a mile higher up, and the -united expedition started again with the intention of exploring this -interesting but unknown river. From this purpose they were soon diverted -by the discovery of an important tributary, which seemed to lead them -into a better country than the Murray was likely to do. After losing or -leaving this creek another was discovered, of still greater importance, -to which Mitchell gave the name of the Loddon, from the marked -resemblance he thought it possessed to its namesake in the old home. The -country consisted of open downs, and was the richest Mitchell had seen -since he had left Sydney. The plains were covered with anthistirium, or -kangaroo grass, which bent under the breeze like a field of oats. The -country was so lightly timbered that the explorers could scarcely find -fuel to make a fire at several of their places of encampment. This -district also yielded many new and beautiful plants, which greatly -enriched the botanical collection. Mitchell next ascended Mount Hope, a -peak which he so named because he expected to obtain a view of the -southern ocean from its summit. This anticipation was not realized, but -he enjoyed the prospect of an unlimited reach of the class of country he -had already discovered. Another hill, called the Pyramid, from its -peculiar form, afforded also an excellent view, and raised in Mitchell a -transport of joy. He could scarcely find words to describe the -magnificence of the scene, or express the delight he felt on account of -his own good fortune. "The scene," says he, "was different from anything -I had ever before witnessed, either in New South Wales, or elsewhere--a -land so inviting, and still without inhabitants. As I stood, the first -intruder on the sublime solitude of these verdant plains, as yet -untouched by flocks or herds, I felt conscious of being the harbinger of -many changes there; for our steps would soon be followed by the men and -the animals for which it seemed to be prepared." And again--"We had at -length discovered a country ready for the immediate reception of -civilized man, and fit to become eventually one of the great nations of -the earth. Unencumbered with too much wood, yet possessing enough for -all purposes; with an exuberant soil under a temperate climate; bounded -by the sea-coast and mighty rivers, and watered abundantly by streams -from lofty mountains, this highly interesting region lay before me, with -all its features new and untouched as they fell from the hands of the -Creator. Of this Eden it seemed I was the only Adam; and it was indeed a -sort of paradise to me, permitted thus to be the first to explore its -mountains and streams--to behold its scenery--to investigate its -geological character--and finally, by my survey, to develop those -natural advantages all still unknown to the civilized world, but yet -certain to become at no distant date of vast importance to a new -people." No prophet ever spoke truer words than these. - -Soon after the Loddon, the Avoca and the Avon Water were discovered. -These streams irrigated the same kind of country as that which had -lately been traversed. This tract was evidently an exception to a rule -which prevails throughout Australia. Good land is usually poorly -supplied with water, while well-watered country is generally of little -account in point of fertility; but here for once was a district which -was equally distinguished for the abundance of its streams and the -excellence of its soil. The explorers now took a direction more to the -eastward, to reach a lofty mountain-chain which appeared to be about 40 -miles distant. This range forms a division between the northern and the -southern waters, and is really the extremity of the coast range. -Mitchell called these the Grampians, from a supposed resemblance to a -chain of the same name in the Southern Highlands of Scotland. Taking two -of his best men, he next ascended Mount William, a peak which rises -4,500 feet above the sea and is the highest in the group. The weather -being unfavourable to the object in view, it was found necessary to -spend a miserably cold night upon its summit, and the exposure -permanently injured the health of his two companions, who had followed -the explorer on three expeditions. An excellent view was obtained at -last, and another great landmark, Mount Arapiles, was fixed upon as the -next object toward which they were to move. This was a bold and isolated -mountain lying westward of the range. Five streams had to be crossed in -passing over the intermediate tract, and these were subsequently found -to unite and form the Wimmera. It was hoped this important river would -lead them to the ocean, but it turned to the northward and flowed into -the interior. The tract of country next discovered presented a very -singular aspect. The surface, as far as the eye could reach, was studded -with lakes, which differed greatly in size, but were circular in form. -Their number must have been prodigious; from one point of view no fewer -than twenty-seven were counted. Most of these circular lakes were -brackish to the taste, and many too salt to be fit for use. - -The extremity of the Grampians had now been reached, and the range was -being successfully turned, when the explorers saw before them a fine -open country, trending away towards the Southern Ocean. The travelling -was often heavy on the soft soil, and they had to be satisfied with six -miles a day as the average rate of progress; nevertheless, the object in -view was being steadily accomplished, and no country was ever traversed -which was richer in the charming incidents of travel. July the 31st was -a red-letter day for Mitchell, for it brought the welcome discovery of a -fine river, which led the party to the breakers of the Southern Ocean. -Its width was 120 feet, with an average depth of 12 feet, and from first -to last it continued to flow through the most picturesque scenery. The -discoverer gave it the name of the Glenelg, in compliment to the -Secretary of State for the Colonies. The track of the expedition kept as -closely as possible to the left bank of the river, which with many -windings was found to be steadily making southward. One of the most -remarkable features of the Glenelg is the number of feeders which it -receives from both sides of its basin. These occasionally flowed through -deep ravines, which made travelling difficult for the drays. But the -scenery is described as being exquisite. Mitchell put the English -language on the rack to make it express his conception of the lovely -scenes which daily met his eye. Either of the valleys of the Wando or -the Wannon might well pass for a modern Tempe. On the 12th of August the -Rifle Range was reached, and from one of the heights Mount Gambier, near -Cape Northumberland, was plainly seen, and this was accepted as -sufficient evidence that the sea could not be very far distant. After -receiving another tributary, which was named the Stokes, the river, -affected also by the proximity to the ocean, became so much increased in -size as to induce Mitchell to launch the boat which had been brought -from Sydney. A depot was accordingly formed at this position which was -called Fort O'Hare. Mitchell took two-thirds of his men, and, after a -few days' pleasant sail, landed safely at the mouth of the Glenelg. - -Before returning to Sydney it was thought advisable to make a short -journey to Portland Bay, for the sake of examining the intervening -country. In this excursion various streams were discovered and crossed, -such as the Crawford, the Fitzroy, and the Surrey; and the prominent -peaks, Ellerslie, Clay, and Kincaid, were ascended or sighted. The -country generally was swampy in the flats, and poor in the higher -grounds, until Portland was reached, where the soil was found to be of -the best possible description. Here a great surprise was in store for -the explorers. They had stumbled by mere chance on the newly-formed -station of Edward Henty, from Tasmania, who generously supplied them -with provisions for the homeward journey. - -Going still forward, Mitchell kept for a considerable time on the -southern fall of the range, in the hope of finding a pass which would be -generally available. Such an opening he was fortunate enough to -discover, near the foot of Mount Byng, which he safely passed through, -barring an accident to his travelling gear. While this was being -repaired, he made an excursion to a prominent height about 30 miles to -the south, in the hope of being able to catch a glimpse of Port Phillip, -and thus enable him to connect his surveys with this important position. -To this height he gave the name of Mount Macedon, and from its summit -was able to observe some of the topographical features of what is now -the site, or the immediate neighbourhood, of Melbourne, and also white -sails or tents, which most likely were the encampments of Batman and -Fawkner, who had been in their new home only a few months. - -In returning, the Campaspe River was discovered, and other tributaries -of the Murray, made known by Hume and Hovell, were crossed without -difficulty. The most serious obstacle was the passage of the Murray; but -it was passed without accident or mishap, although it was 80 yards in -width. Some rugged country had to be encountered before the Murrumbidgee -was crossed. But this was the _ultimus labor_ of the expedition, for the -settled territory had now been reached. Mitchell accordingly reckoned -this outpost the termination of his journey; and it had not been a short -one. He had travelled over 2,400 miles of country, and was seven months -in the bush. But he had been more fortunate than any of his -predecessors; nor, indeed, has his success been eclipsed to this day. -For this splendid service he was worthily rewarded with the honour of -knighthood from the British Crown. - - -IV. - -The good fortune which had followed Sir Thomas Mitchell throughout his -three earlier expeditions did not forsake him during this one, which -proved to be the last and most arduous of the series. It was his -ambition this time to cross the continent and open an overland route to -the distant Carpentaria. Of all men living, he was the most likely to -accomplish this task. He did not, indeed, attain the desire of his -heart, but in all other respects his expedition was eminently -successful, and forms a memorable epoch in the history of exploration. -The party mustered at the old rendezvous of Buree, in the Western -District, which, though no longer the outpost of settlement, was yet a -convenient starting-point. Mitchell chose for his second in command Mr. -Edmund B. Kennedy, the unfortunate explorer who, several years later, -was killed by the blacks when leading a disastrous expedition in Cape -York Peninsula. The rest of the party were mostly convicts from Port -Jackson, who had volunteered their services in the hope of obtaining -their freedom. The little army, consisting of two dozen able-bodied men, -amply provisioned, left Buree on the 15th of December, 1845. The old -route was followed for a considerable way, and in a short time the -Hervey Range, containing the sources of the Bogan, was crossed without -serious difficulty. For a long distance westward the country was now -occupied by squatters, but many of the outsiders had already succumbed -to the hostility of the Darling blacks, who had speared their cattle and -otherwise harassed them beyond the limit of human endurance. Ten years -had now passed away since Mitchell led his preceding expedition through -these parts, and the abortive attempts at settlement were the principal -changes observable in the general aspect of the country. One very -remarkable minor feature was the appearance of couch-grass and -horehound, which had sprung up around the stockyards. Mitchell was quite -positive in asserting that no specimen of these plants could have been -found in the district before the white men settled there. - -The party suffered from want of water till Nyngan was reached, on the -16th January, and then one difficulty was quickly followed by another. -Most of the men were seized with eye-blight, and compelled to remain in -camp longer than was convenient for the object of the expedition. But -they were again on the move as soon as circumstances would permit, the -march being now directed towards the Macquarie. Meanwhile an encampment -was made on the Canonbar, a tributary of the Bogan. While resting here -the saltbush became an object of curiosity, and some interesting -experiments were made with this singular plant of the interior plains. -The tiny leaves were found to be a tolerable substitute for vegetables -after boiling, by which process a yield of pure salt was obtained in the -proportion of one ounce to the pound. The condition of the stock also -bore witness to the fattening quality of the same plant. - -After a few days of eventful travel by way of Sturt's Duck Ponds, the -Macquarie River was struck a few miles below Mount Harris, which had -been an important landmark for explorers since the time of Oxley. The -channel was dry, but the blacks reported a heavy flood as near at hand. -Mitchell had often heard of sudden inundations appearing in an arid part -of the country, and was anxious to witness so singular a visitation. -Late in the still evening there fell upon his ear a dull murmur as of -distant thunder, speedily followed by a cracking and crashing of trees, -and in a few minutes more the river was overflowing its banks in a -wide-spreading flood. The phenomenon is described as being grand in the -extreme, and of so improbable a character as scarcely to be credited -unless it had been witnessed. - -On the 27th the Castlereagh was reached, and the next day the party -found themselves on the banks of the Darling. For many miles in both -directions the river at this period was studded with pastoral -settlements. Having crossed at Warley, near one of the stations, -Mitchell now struck out for the Narran, the nearest point of which was -reckoned to be about 35 miles distant. The intervening space was found -to consist of choice pastoral country, covered with tall kangaroo grass. -Commissioner Mitchell, son of the explorer, had previously traversed -these parts, and this expedition soon "pulled up" his tracks. The line -of the Narran River having thus been already explored, it was traversed -as expeditiously as possible, and this part of the journey was over by -the beginning of April, when the Balonne (pronounced Baloon) was -sighted. Mitchell described it as the finest river he had seen in -Australia, with the exception of the Murray. The current was very -slight, but the water stretched out in long and beautiful reaches. The -march was once more resumed, and the party moved along the line of this -river till St. George's Bridge was reached, where the width expanded to -120 yards. At this point there is a chain of rocks stretching from bank -to bank, which has always the appearance, and sometimes the convenience, -of a natural bridge. It was this circumstance which led to its being -called St. George's Bridge, a name which it still retains in common with -the flourishing township that has sprung up in the vicinity. - -While enjoying a short interval of repose in this enchanting situation, -Mitchell had the pleasure of receiving a despatch from headquarters -containing a brief account of Leichhardt's successful journey to Port -Essington. Being somewhat jealous of his rival, and, it may be, -concerned for his own laurels, he determined on making a redoubled -effort to cross the continent and discover a more practicable route -than Leichhardt had been able to find. Leaving Kennedy in charge of the -depot at St. George, he took a light party and pushed forward, having -given instructions to the rest to follow his tracks when the stock -should be sufficiently recruited for travel. One day's march brought the -advance party to the junction of another important river, which was -afterwards found to be the Maranoa. But they still kept the line of the -Balonne as far as the Cogoon, a considerable tributary, which was now -followed. This led the explorers into a splendid district, known -afterwards as the Fitzroy Downs, near the centre of which the town of -Roma now stands. This fine region was studded with isolated -mountain-peaks, one of which Mitchell hastened to ascend. The prospect -obtained from its summit was magnificent, and the pasture so abundant on -this height as to suggest the name of Mount Abundance, which it has ever -since retained. At a short distance the three-peaked Bindango, standing -near its fellow, Bindeygo, formed most picturesque features in the -landscape. It was on Mount Abundance that the first bottle-tree was -discovered. This is the strangest product of the Australian forest, and -Sir Thomas was disposed to regard it as a _lusus naturae_ in the -vegetable kingdom. - -The telescope again brought into view a range of hills. Mitchell, bent -on reaching Carpentaria, had for some time been disappointed in not -finding the division of the northern waters, and fervently hoped this -distant range would prove to be the dividing line. This watershed was to -him, through the whole journey, what the horizon is to the -traveller--always appearing near and ever receding. Many a weary day did -he toil on, sustained by this expectation, but it kept mocking him to -the last, and he went to his grave without having crossed the coveted -watershed. But for the present he enjoyed the pleasures of hope. Leaving -Mount Abundance he soon discovered the Amby, which, being followed, led -on to the Maranoa, whose junction with the Balonne he had previously -discovered. Here he established another depot and waited for Kennedy, -making in the meantime several short excursions in various directions. -Not far from this depot a squatting station was subsequently formed, and -more recently an important town has been built, in both of which the -name of Mitchell has been perpetuated. Kennedy having brought up his -party in excellent condition, the experiment which had been so -successfully made at St. George's Bridge was repeated here--the leader -again setting out for the north with a small equipment and a four -months' supply of provisions. The natives in this quarter were not -disposed to stand on friendly terms with the strangers, and usually kept -at a safe distance. One inconvenience only Mitchell regretted. Many -interesting natural features were observed, especially mountain-peaks, -which he would gladly have made known under the aboriginal names. -Failing in this, his favourite custom, he called them after some of the -leading men of the time, as Owen, Faraday, Buckland, and P. P. King. As -an exception, he named one of the heights Mount Aquarius, in remembrance -of a very seasonable supply of water it had furnished for his party. -This difficulty now seemed to be overcome for some time by the discovery -of the Nive and the Nivelle, important tributaries of a large river. -This was the Warrego, which would have been followed had it not -persisted in taking a course which would have led them in the opposite -direction to Carpentaria. - -The country to the northward continued to rise till it reached an -elevation of something like 1,500 feet. Being also of a mountainous -character, it was fondly hoped that here, at least, would be found the -long-sought watershed. This anticipation was rather confirmed by the -discovery of a beautiful stream, now called Salvator Rosa, which flowed -northward with a clear and musical current. This pleasing delusion -lasted only one day, for on the morrow the lovely river ended its course -in a reedy lake, on the opposite side of which a channel was found, but -it contained no water at that time. This is one of the heads of the -Nogoa, a river trending too much to the east to suit Sir Thomas's -purpose. Other discoveries of streams or watercourses were made soon -afterwards, two of the principal being named the Claude and the Balmy -Creek. These designations are suggestive of pleasant associations, and, -while speaking well for the country, sufficiently prove that the -expedition had its share of enjoyment as well as the usual experience -of toil and fatigue. - -The 21st of July was rendered memorable by the discovery of the -Belyando, a fine river, heading towards the north, and offering a better -promise of leading to the Gulf. In this expectation, it was eagerly -followed, and in four days conducted the explorers across the Tropic of -Capricorn. In many parts the country was excellent, stretching out in -splendid downs, which squatters have long since applied to a lucrative -purpose, but in other places the axe had to be used to clear a path -through the brigalow scrubs. In common with other explorers, Mitchell -has noticed that "the Australian rivers have all distinguishing -characteristics, which they seem to possess from their source to their -termination." The Belyando was no exception. It was found throughout its -course to have an unfortunate propensity for splitting into channels, -which were often difficult to trace through the thick scrub; but, as a -compensation, these branches afforded excellent facilities for storage -of water against dry seasons. Many days of persevering travel gave the -party a good northing, but, after passing over three and a half degrees -of latitude, it began to be evident that the Belyando also was going to -deceive them. It had been steadily, and latterly very decisively, making -for the east, thus leaving no hope of conducting the expedition to -Carpentaria. Mitchell rightly conjectured that it must be the tributary -which Leichhardt had seen joining the Suttor, and, with a crushing -feeling of disappointment, determined to change his front and return -home. - -Having still a sufficient store of provisions, he was unwilling to -continue his homeward track, and resolved to follow up a river to the -westward, which took its rise in the high ground previously mentioned. -It was found to lead through first-class pasture land, and this -excursion resulted in opening up a large area of squatting country. Many -tributaries were noticed to fall in on either side, particularly the -Alice, which came from the north. The main river was followed till it, -too, left no hope of leading to the coveted north. Soon after Sir Thomas -gave up the search altogether, and set his face in earnest for the -settled districts, which he reached, after no long interval, by way of -the Mooni River and the Liverpool Plains. Having failed to enter into -communication with the aborigines, he was unable to ascertain the native -name of the river which had led him so far to the west. It was the last -of his great discoveries, and he called it after the name of the Queen, -an unfortunate designation, as there is another Victoria River on the -west coast. About the same period Captain Sturt was exploring on another -part of this river, and gave it the name of Cooper's Creek. The natives -called it the Barcoo, and by this name it is now generally known -throughout its whole course. - - - - -CHAPTER IX. - -KENNEDY'S DISASTROUS EXPEDITION TO CAPE YORK. - - -This chapter is from first to last a tale of woe. The history of -exploration, tragic as it has so often been, contains no parallel to the -expedition which is now to be described. Of the thirteen brave men who, -full of hope, set forth on this memorable journey, only three starved -and emaciated shadows of humanity returned to tell the story of their -miserable sufferings. The disaster produced in Sydney an impression -which was the more saddening as a successful issue had been confidently -expected. The leader, Mr. Edmund B. Kennedy, was supposed to be a -thoroughly capable person. He had formerly been taken from the Survey -Department and placed second in command of the northern expedition of -Sir Thomas Mitchell, whose discoveries on the Barcoo and the Warrego he -had subsequently followed up on his own account. So great care had been -taken in selecting the most promising leader, for this reason, simply, -that the colony was now passionately in earnest on this business. The -rising importance and threatening attitude of Port Phillip made it more -than ever necessary to discover, if possible, a practicable route to -some northern port which might serve as an _entrepot_ for the trade with -India. Mitchell, after doing his best, had failed to supply this want. -Leichhardt had, indeed, been more successful, for he had actually -reached Port Essington; but his track was too rough and circuitous to -serve the purpose of commerce. Another effort to reach the same object -was now to be made on a modified plan. To simplify the process, it was -proposed to land a party of explorers at Rockingham Bay, with -instructions to proceed overland to Port Albany, near Cape York, in the -extreme north. This was the primary object, and if it could be attained, -other advantages might follow in the opening up of new country, and the -eventual connection of the survey with those of Leichhardt and Mitchell. - -The enterprise commenced with unfavourable omens. The voyage to -Rockingham Bay was tempestuous, and extended over the unusual period of -twenty-one days. By the 1st day of June, 1848, the adventurers had -escaped from the perils of the sea, and committed themselves to the -guardianship of a land inhabited as yet only by savages. A hazardous -journey of six months lay between them and Port Albany, while their only -resource against starvation consisted of 1 ton of flour, 90 lbs. of tea, -and 600 lbs. of sugar, together with a few sheep, which were soon almost -wholly lost. It was arranged that a relief vessel should be waiting at -Cape York to receive the explorers at the end of their journey, and it -was promised also that an attempt would be made to communicate with them -at Princess Charlotte Bay, if they could engage to reach that place by -the month of August. With these arrangements and understandings the -_Tam o' Shanter_ spread sail, and left Kennedy with his heroic dozen to -battle with difficulties, known and unknown, as they best could. These -unhappily commenced at once, and never ceased till nearly all this brave -band found rest in the arms of death. The ground on which the landing -had been effected was covered with interminable swamps, and five -precious weeks were spent in turning these, before any northing could be -made. It was the misfortune of this ill-provisioned party to encounter -within a short compass nearly all the obstacles which have beset -Australian explorers, and these, truly, have been neither few nor small. -Scarcely had the maze of marshes been left behind when impenetrable -thickets threatened to bar further progress. These first visitors to -York Peninsula found the scrubs entangled and interlaced by a new -creeper which is now known under the name of _Calamus Australis_, and -this novelty proved to be a scourge of the first magnitude. For days in -succession the axe had to be used to cut a passage through this -exquisite specimen of nature's lattice-work, and then the severed -tendrils, furnished as they were with curved spines, and made the -plaything of the wind, kept hooking the flesh of the men at work, who -were thus subjected to perpetual annoyance. But a more serious enemy now -began to hang upon the rear. The blacks, having assumed a threatening -attitude for some time past, at last appeared in strong force, painted -and armed for the fight. Outward signs of friendship were still kept -up; but it was too evident that they were bent on mischief, and only -waited a fit opportunity for a decisive assault. When least expected a -spear was thrown into the camp, which Kennedy determined to accept as a -challenge, and gave battle. This decision was exceedingly unfortunate, -as it led to extremities at once. Men like Sturt would have tried every -conceivable shift before allowing matters to come to the _dernier -ressort_, and might have gained their object by the mere sound of a gun. -But Kennedy ordered his men to load and fire upon the savages at once. -Four or five of the ringleaders fell, and the rest retreated for the -present; but only to nurse their wrath and meditate revenge. Here was -the beginning of another train of sorrows, for the barbarians never -ceased to dog Kennedy's steps till their enmity was quenched in his -blood. - -The progress of the expedition was slow and unsatisfactory. Cases of -individual sickness occasioned irritating delays, and physical -hindrances became more frequent than ever. A considerable part of the -route lay between the spurs of the range which would have to be crossed -before Cape York was reached. It was with great difficulty that the -drays carrying the provisions had been brought over the rugged country, -and it had sometimes been necessary to lower them into the ravines by -means of ropes. As the journey ahead looked still more precipitous, it -was judged impracticable to take them much further, and with great -reluctance Kennedy resolved on exchanging this mode of conveyance for -pack-horses. Everything that could be spared was accordingly abandoned, -for the animals were now too poor to carry heavy loads. In this manner -and under such difficulties a fresh start was made. Amid so many -discouragements only one gleam of hope sustained the heroic adventurers. -They were now nearing Princess Charlotte Bay, the appointed rendezvous -for themselves and the succour which was promised from the sea. But they -had been delayed too long to admit of this assistance being confidently -relied on. August was fixed as the time of meeting, but October had now -come, and they began to be uneasy lest the vessel should have given them -up and returned. These fears, as the issue proved, were only too well -founded. The hapless wanderers, standing on the precipices of the range, -scanned the inhospitable coast for miles around this lonely -trysting-place; but instead of the wished-for help, now a question of -life and death, they were met by nothing but blank despair. With heavy -hearts the explorers again set their faces towards Cape York, now -knowing for certain that they must either reach this goal or lay their -bones in the wilderness. Unhappily, the difficulties of travel thickened -more and more, and it became painfully evident to Kennedy that he would -have to leave the greater part of his men and strike out with all speed, -in the hope of returning with assistance. Provisions, too, had become -alarmingly short, and under any circumstances starvation seemed all but -inevitable. The camp was now on Pudding-pan Hill, in the vicinity of -Weymouth Bay, and it was determined to leave eight men in this depot for -the present. All the provisions that could be spared were 28 lbs. of -flour and a couple of horses, which were only walking skeletons. Kennedy -reckoned on reaching Port Albany in about a fortnight, and started with -a light party of four men, including an aboriginal of tried fidelity -named Jacky Jacky. The remainder of this history is derived from the -barely intelligible language of poor Jacky. It appears that for the -first three weeks very unsatisfactory progress was made, much precious -time being lost in consequence of a gun accident. One of the men being -thus rendered unfit for travel, and another required to nurse him, -Kennedy resolved to divide his party a second time. He accordingly left -three men near Shelborne Bay, and, with only Jacky to accompany him, -determined to make a life-and-death struggle to bring succour from Port -Albany. But his own strength was rapidly failing, and the hostility of -the blacks, who had so long hung upon his rear, was daily assuming a -more deadly aspect. This misfortune was the more to be regretted as this -tedious and toilsome journey was almost at an end. From one of the -heights Kennedy caught a glimpse of Port Albany, with its neighbouring -island, and pointed them out to his dusky companion. But his life's -journey was still nearer its close. The blacks were gathering in -hundreds. An ineffectual attempt was tried to elude their vigilance by -camping in the scrub without a fire, but they again made their presence -known by hurling the deadly spear. Jacky made a rush to rally the -horses, which, frantic with their wounds, had begun to dash through the -scrub, and, on returning, found his master had been speared, surrounded, -and robbed. A feeble resistance was offered to the assault of the -savages, but it had little effect, and was soon over. Jacky thought -Kennedy was dying fast, and asked if he was now going to leave him. He -said he was fatally wounded, and, having given a brief order concerning -his papers, breathed his last in the arms of his faithful attendant. -Such was the end of Mr. E. B. Kennedy, a man who has left his mark on -our history, and will be honoured by posterity as one of the most -heroic, if not the most judicious, and certainly the least fortunate, of -the Australian explorers. - -Jacky, being now alone, and more dead than alive, made his way as best -he could to Port Albany. His progress was sometimes less than a mile per -day, but he struggled on in the hope of finding the promised vessel. -Almost six months had passed away since the party of thirteen -disembarked at Rockingham Bay. It was within two days of Christmas, and -those in charge of the ship were debating with themselves whether it was -worth while waiting any longer, when a poor emaciated creature was -observed to drag himself from the forest and make signs to the vessel. -Being conveyed on board, his tale of woe was soon told, in such words as -he could use. The gravity of the situation became apparent immediately, -and the order was given at once to hoist sail for Shelborne Bay, in the -hope of being able to rescue the three men who had been left at -Pudding-pan Hill. The search was unsuccessful. No trace of these -unfortunates could then, or has ever since been discovered. There still -remained the depot at Weymouth Bay, where the necessities of the eight -men left there could not be otherwise than urgent in the extreme, if -they were still alive. All haste was made to the rescue. The eight were -all found, but six of them were dead. The two survivors were more like -ghosts than human beings of flesh and blood. The tale of miseries which -they had to relate was heartrending. In addition to the lingering -horrors of starvation, they had to endure incessant attacks from the -blacks, who, knowing they had them in their power, enjoyed a savage -delight in prolonging the distress of their victims. Yet it appears that -the half-dozen eventually died of hunger, a fate which the survivors -must inevitably have shared if relief had been much longer delayed. -Having been too weak to bury their dead companions, this sacred duty was -performed by the ship's crew, who thereafter hastened homeward with the -miserable remains of Kennedy's heroic but ill-starred expedition. - - - - -CHAPTER X. - -LEICHHARDT'S EXPEDITIONS TO PORT ESSINGTON AND INTO THE INTERIOR. - - -Dr. Ludwig Leichhardt, who was born in Germany and educated in France, -came to Australia in the year 1840. He commenced his career in Sydney as -a lecturer on botany, his favourite science, and became immediately -popular. Naturally fond of travel, and being eager for enterprise, -Leichhardt took to the bush, where he earned his fame and lost his life. -His first essays in exploration were made in the country lying between -Brisbane and Wide Bay, which he traversed specially in the interests of -botanical and geological science. In these adventures he was associated -for the most part with the blacks, who welcomed him as a benefactor on -account of his medical skill, of which he gave them the full benefit -without fee or reward. - -Having accomplished his object in this part of the country, Leichhardt -returned to Sydney, where he found public opinion strongly excited on -the question of exploration. Sir Thomas Mitchell, having led three -expeditions into the interior with great success, was mainly -instrumental in creating this outburst of enthusiasm, which called for -other enterprises of a like nature and purpose. At this period, also, a -keen desire was manifested for an overland route to Carpentaria as a -highway, so far, to India, which was supposed to offer an unlimited -market for Australian horses. Already a settlement had come into -existence at Port Essington, which was reckoned a suitable _entrepot_ -for the prospective traffic. The one thing wanted was an overland route -to this place, and it was generally thought the time had come when an -attempt should be made to discover it. Sir Thomas Mitchell was again to -the front, expressing himself ready for the undertaking, with Dr. -Leichhardt as second in command. He had already arranged to proceed to -his old depot at Fort Bourke and to strike north for Carpentaria. But a -fatal obstacle was unexpectedly interposed. Sir George Gipps, being in a -bad humour with his advisers, refused to confirm the vote for supplies -which the Council had unanimously passed, and, as a natural consequence, -the whole project fell to the ground. This was a sore blow to -Leichhardt, but it did not unman him. Despairing of help or countenance -from the Governor, he volunteered to lead an expedition to Port -Essington on his own account if private liberality should prove itself -equal to the occasion. In a very short time sufficient resources were -forthcoming, and Leichhardt now set himself to redeem his promise. - - -I. - -In this expedition it was resolved to start from Moreton Bay and keep -the eastern fall of the main range, thus avoiding the parched-up -interior and following a route which was likely to furnish an adequate -supply of water. Leichhardt could never have been far beyond the reach -of the sea-breeze--a circumstance which caused Mitchell to speak of him, -rather contemptuously, as a "timid coaster." The party, consisting of -ten persons, with seven months' provisions, made an auspicious start -from Brisbane, and had reached the outskirts of settlement by the 1st of -October, 1844. Crossing the Darling Downs, the River Condamine was -followed as far as practicable, after which a dividing range was -traversed and the Dawson River discovered. It flowed through a -magnificent valley, which was soon after proved to be an excellent -pastoral district. When it turned too much to the east a more northerly -course was steered, which led to the discovery of Palm-Tree Creek, in a -splendid valley abounding in palms, and hence the name. The next stage -was much impeded by brigalow scrub, but a succession of lagoons supplied -the party with plenty of water and excellent game. Zamia Creek followed -in the line of discovery, bounded by the Expedition Range, which was -crossed, and Comet Creek discovered soon after. This latter led on to -the Mackenzie, which had to be abandoned in a short time, as it flowed -too much to the east. The picturesque Peak Range was now passed. The -mountains not only appeared magnificent in point of scenery, but were -believed also to contain precious stones. Leichhardt says:--"A profusion -of chalcedony and fine specimens of agate were observed in many places -along the basaltic ridges." On the 13th of February they discovered an -important river, which was named the Isaacs, but it was not followed, as -the course was again directed towards the mountains. Shortly after they -had the good fortune to come upon the Suttor, which brought them to the -Burdekin. This was the best discovery yet made, as it served them for a -guide over more than two degrees of latitude. When this river also left -them for the coast, their route was directed more inland, with a view of -reaching Carpentaria. In this cross-country journey a conspicuous -mountain observed in the distance received the name of Mount Lang, -"after Dr. Lang, the distinguished historiographer of New South Wales." -A few unimportant creeks having been crossed, they found themselves on -the western fall, and discovered one of the Gulf rivers, which was named -the Lynd. Here, and at several later camps, the explorers were treated -with a visit from some awfully pertinacious intruders. "We had scarcely -left our camp," says Leichhardt, "when swarms of crows and kites took -possession of it, after having given us a fair fight during the previous -days whilst we were drying the meat. Their boldness was, indeed, -remarkable; and if the natives had as much we should soon have to quit -our camps." In this district a botanical novelty, in the form of a -bread-fruit tree, was found, and used to some advantage. As the Lynd did -not lead in the most suitable direction, it was left, and a straight -line taken to the Gulf. This was the occasion of the discovery of -another river, which was called the Mitchell, in honour of the -distinguished explorer; but it, too, was given up for a shorter course. -In this quarter a deplorable accident occurred. The camp was attacked -during night by the blacks, when Gilbert, the naturalist to the -expedition, was killed. From this point the journey was continued round -the head of the Gulf. Numerous rivers were crossed, some of which had -been long before discovered by exploring navigators, and others were now -for the first time brought to light. Among the latter were the Gilbert -and the Roper, both receiving names in honour of members of the -expedition. The Roper River had many tributaries, one of which was -called Flying-Fox Creek, from the myriads of these creatures which had -chosen it for their haunt. Leichhardt says:--"I went with Charley and -Brown to the spot where we had seen the greatest number of flying-foxes, -and whilst I was examining the neighbouring tree, my companions shot 67, -of which 55 were brought to our camp, which served for dinner, supper, -and luncheon." By the 24th of November the expedition had crossed the -watershed between the streams flowing into the Gulf and those heading -for the Indian Ocean. After much toilsome travel, the South Alligator -River was reached, about 60 miles from its mouth and 140 from Port -Essington. In this locality the waterfowl are described as being seen, -not in crowds, but in "clouds." "Here," says Leichhardt, "we should -have been tolerably comfortable but for a large green-eyed fly, which -was extremely troublesome to us, and which scarcely allowed our poor -horses to feed." In order to avoid some bad, rocky ground, the party -turned to the south and struck the East Alligator River. The last stage -of the journey was travelled under the direction of a native guide, and -the goal of the expedition reached in safety. After a month's rest in -this settlement, Leichhardt found a schooner bound for Port Jackson, and -embraced this opportunity of returning to Sydney by sea. His unexpected -appearance there seemed like an apparition from the other world. For a -long time he had been given up for lost, and a search expedition had -already come back unsuccessful. The citizens of Sydney at once -instituted a public subscription for Leichhardt and his associates, who -had thus travelled over 3,000 miles in fifteen months. The amount -reached the figure of L1,500, which was supplemented by a Government -grant of L1,000. The Royal Geographical Societies, also, hastened to -show their appreciation of the explorer's labours by presenting him with -their gold medals. These rewards had been as honestly earned as they -were handsomely made. The route he had laid open was, indeed, useless -for the purpose intended, as being impracticable for traffic, and -inferior to others which have since been discovered, but the expedition -brought to the knowledge of the colonists an immense extent of excellent -country, which was speedily occupied by pastoral tenants. - - -II. - -A short period of repose sufficed to recruit the wearied explorer and -brace him up for future effort. Now more enthusiastic than ever, -Leichhardt conceived the heroic idea of traversing the entire continent -at its greatest width, starting from Moreton Bay and proceeding through -the deserts to Swan River in Western Australia. He was now in possession -of some private means, and his zeal was again supported by numerous -friends. This new expedition consisted of nine persons, and his -equipment, especially under the head of live stock, was provided on the -largest scale the colony had yet witnessed. These consisted of 108 -sheep, 270 goats, 40 bullocks, 15 horses, and 15 mules. His plan was to -follow his former route for a few hundred miles, and then bear off to -the westward. All went tolerably well till the Dawson country was -passed, after which wet weather became a serious hindrance. At Comet -Creek the party began to suffer from fever and ague, but still pushed on -to the Mackenzie, where they found themselves in a deplorable plight. -The resources had been wasted, not so much as a dose of medicine being -left for the sick. No one being able to attend to the sheep and cattle, -the whole were irretrievably lost. It now became evident to Leichhardt, -as it had been for some time to his companions, that it would be the -part of madness to attempt the unknown desert so ill-furnished with -supplies. Conquered by dire necessity, Leichhardt returned home with a -heavy heart, after a fruitless journey of seven months. The expedition -had proved a total failure, and, as the old track had been followed, the -journey added nothing to what was already known of the distant parts of -the country. - - -III. - -In the meantime Sir Thomas Mitchell had made a fourth exploring -expedition, and on this occasion had done his best to discover an -interior route to Carpentaria. He failed, however, in this object; but -in all other respects the undertaking had been eminently successful. In -one quarter the tracks of the two explorers had approached within a -short distance of one another, and Leichhardt, being in possession of a -considerable salvage from the wreck of his second expedition, proposed -to examine the intervening district--a fine territory, now known as the -Fitzroy Downs. This was a small undertaking for so great an explorer. -Nor was it a very necessary one either, for the squatters were already -in possession of the country, and the crack of the stockman's whip -suggested to Leichhardt the propriety of returning home and preparing -for an enterprise more worthy of his well-won reputation. - - -IV. - -Arrangements were again made in earnest for crossing the continent to -Swan River, all being ready to set out from Moreton Bay with a party of -only six men, provisioned for a journey which was calculated to extend -over two or three years. The second in command was one Classan, -brother-in-law to Leichhardt, who had just arrived from Germany to join -the expedition. The late Rev. W. B. Clarke, being surprised at so -peculiar an arrangement, asked the "new chum" what qualifications he -possessed for the most perilous enterprise hitherto attempted in -Australia? Classan replied that he was a seaman who had suffered -shipwreck, and was, therefore, well fitted to endure hardship! In this -expedition Leichhardt resolved to abandon his old route for that of Sir -Thomas Mitchell, which he proposed to follow as far as the bend of the -Victoria (Barcoo), and then turn westward. He seems to have fallen into -this track near Mount Abundance, in the neighbourhood of the present -town of Roma, in Queensland. It is not possible to trace the expedition -much further, nor is there any hope of the veil of mystery ever being -lifted. Here are Leichhardt's last words to the civilized world, as -written from M'Pherson's station, on the Cogoon, under date of 3rd -April, 1848:--"I take the last opportunity of giving you an account of -my progress. In eleven days we travelled from Mr. Burrell's station, on -the Condamine, to Mr. M'Pherson's, on the Fitzroy Downs. Though the -country was occasionally very difficult, yet everything went on very -well. My mules are in excellent order, my companions in excellent -spirits. Three of my cattle are footsore, but I shall kill one of them -to-night, to lay in our necessary stock of dried beef. The Fitzroy -Downs, on which we travelled for about 22 miles from east to west, is, -indeed, a splendid region, and Sir Thomas Mitchell has not exaggerated -their beauty in his account. The soil is pebbly and sound, richly -grassed, and, to judge from the myalls, of the most fattening quality. I -came right on to Mount Abundance and passed over a gap in it with my -whole train. My latitude agreed well with Mitchell's. I fear that the -absence of water in the Fitzroy Downs will render this fine country, to -a great degree, unavailable. I observe the thermometer daily at 6 a.m. -and 8 p.m., which are the only convenient hours. I have tried the wet -thermometer, but am afraid my observations will be very deficient. I -shall, however, improve on them as I proceed. The only serious accident -that has happened was the loss of a spade, but we were fortunate enough -to make it up at this station. Though the days are still very hot, the -beautiful clear nights are cool and benumb the mosquitoes, which have -ceased to trouble us. Myriads of flies are the only annoyance we have. -Seeing how much I have been favoured on my present progress, I am full -of hopes that our Almighty Protector will allow me to bring my darling -scheme to a successful termination." This last communication, -unfortunately, says nothing about the direction in which he intended to -travel, and his route henceforth is a matter of pure conjecture. After -years of weary waiting Mr. Hovenden Hely was sent to search for his -tracks, but without avail. Hely was played upon by the blacks, who -pretended to show him several of Leichhardt's camping grounds, and -finally the bones of the murdered party. They turned out, however, to be -mutton-bones, and the search ended in nothing. Mr. A. C. Gregory, -himself a distinguished explorer, led two expeditions with the same -object in view, and discovered a tree marked "L," which may or may not -have been made by Leichhardt. Walker, when searching for Burke and -Wills, believed he had found some traces of the missing expedition; but -these marks were again successfully contested by Landsborough. Still -later a Mr. Skuthorpe, in a most mercenary fashion, tried to persuade -the public, and especially the Government of New South Wales, that he -had discovered certain relics of the expedition, including Leichhardt's -journal in good preservation; but the affair was looked upon as an -imposition, and nothing further has transpired. It cannot be said with -certainty that a single trace of Leichhardt has been discovered since he -wrote his letter from the Fitzroy Downs. - - - - -CHAPTER XI. - -MR. A. C. GREGORY'S EXPEDITION TO THE NORTH-WEST INTERIOR. - - -The part of the continent which shall next engage our attention is the -north-west interior. Up to this period of our history very little had -been known of this quarter, except along the seaboard and, in sparse -places, for a few miles inland. The Victoria had been discovered in 1840 -by Captain Stokes, who described it as a rival to the Murray, and, -moreover, sailed up its channel for 50 miles without reaching the head -of the navigation. By this waterway it was thought possible to reach the -north-western interior, in which some traces of Leichhardt might be met -with. The conduct of this expedition was entrusted to Mr. A. C. Gregory, -a very capable explorer, and a man of scientific attainments. His party -numbered eighteen persons, including his brother, Mr. H. Gregory, Mr. -Wilson, geologist, and the now famous Baron Von Mueller as botanist. The -party took with them 50 horses and 200 sheep. The _Tom Tough_ and the -_Monarch_ landed the expedition on the Plains of Promise, near the head -of the Gulf of Carpentaria, on the 24th September, 1855. The _Monarch_ -then returned to Moreton Bay, while the _Tom Tough_ sailed round to the -Victoria, having received orders to wait for the rest of the party, who -were to proceed overland. In six days they made the Macadam Range, and -in eight more came on to the Fitzmaurice River. At this camp the horses, -which had already been greatly reduced in number, were bitten by -alligators, and three of them died. On reaching the Victoria the _Tom -Tough_ was not to be seen, as she had been driven ashore elsewhere and -had sustained severe injury. On the 3rd of January, 1856, Mr. Gregory -started with eight men and followed up the Victoria for 100 miles. In -latitude 16 deg. 26' S. it split into two branches, each of which was in -succession traced up to the vanishing point. The explorers then struck -forth into the desert, proceeding on a southerly course. A journey of -300 miles brought them, on the 22nd of February, to a promising creek, -to which they gave the name of Sturt, in memory of the eminent explorer. -To their intense disappointment, this clue also failed them, for Sturt's -Creek finally resolved itself into a sheet of salt water, to which they -gave the appropriate designation of Lake Termination. Two mountains in -this neighbourhood were called Mount Mueller and Mount Wilson, after the -botanist and the geologist of the expedition. Once more the terrible -salt desert lay before the baffled explorers. "Nothing," says the -leader, "could have been more forbidding than the long, straight lines -of drift-sand which, having nearly an east and west direction, rose -beyond each other like the waves of the sea; and though the red glare of -the sand was partially concealed by a scanty growth of spinifex, the -reflection from its surface caused the passing clouds to be coloured a -deep purple. We had long passed the limit to which the tropical rains of -the north-west coast extend, and the country south of 19 deg. seemed only to -be visited by occasional thunderstorms. Thus for a few miles the grass -would be fresh and green, then there would be a long interval of dry, -parched country, where no rain appeared to have fallen for a -twelve-month. The channel of the creek also decreased in size, and the -frequent occurrence of salicornia indicated the saline nature of the -soil; the water became brackish, then salt, and finally spread out and -terminated in the dry bed of a salt lake, a mile in diameter, which -communicated with a second, of larger size, nine miles long and five -wide. Though now quite dry, there were marks of water having stood for -considerable periods, of from 10 to 15 feet deep, as the shells of -mussels in their natural position were abundant more than a mile from -the ordinary bank of the lake, showing that a large tract of country is -sometimes inundated. As the mussels are a species which live in fresh -water, it is evident that at such times the lake is not salt, but it -would appear that as the waters evaporate and recede they become saline, -as the shells found within the limits of the lake were of other species -which affect brackish or salt water." One more attempt to make for the -south proved abortive, and, with many regrets, Gregory returned to the -depot, after having penetrated within 730 miles of Sturt's most -advanced camp towards the centre of Australia. - -Falling back upon alternative instructions, the leader now left the -Victoria, and, making his way across Arnheim's Land, reached the River -Roper. The track of Leichhardt round the southern shores of the Gulf was -followed for the most part. The Plains of Promise were crossed, but -Gregory scarcely agreed with Stokes in his unqualified praise of this -country. From the Albert River he resolved to seek for a better track to -Moreton Bay than Leichhardt's. The Flinders was reached on the 8th of -September, between which river and the Gilbert some good country was -discovered. The latter was traced for 180 miles of its course. The -Burdekin was reached by the 16th of October, and a fortnight later its -junction with the Suttor. Gregory traced the Belyando to 22 deg., thus -connecting the routes of Mitchell and Leichhardt with his own. Passing -the Mackenzie and the Comet, the Dawson River was reached by the 15th of -November. The course was then made to Brisbane through the Burnett -district, a journey of 400 miles. The parties in this expedition had -been absent sixteen months from the haunts of civilization. They had -travelled 2,000 miles by sea and 5,000 by land. - - - - -CHAPTER XII. - -BURKE AND WILLS'S EXPEDITION ACROSS THE AUSTRALIAN CONTINENT. - - -The golden age of Australian exploration dates from 1860. The preceding -half-century is rich in heroic efforts put forth in this direction, and -bears witness to many a conquest over the mysterious interior as the -fruit of much self-sacrifice. Yet these results, as a class, were of a -secondary character, only sometimes answering the hopes of the explorers -themselves, and not doing so at all when these expectations rose to the -ambition of crossing the continent. But those days of comparative -failure are now over, and 1860 marks the commencement of a bright and -glorious era for the explorers of this hitherto dark continent. Within -the space of the next two years Australia was crossed no fewer than six -times, by as many expeditions. The foremost place in time, as well as -interest, belongs to Burke and Wills, and for this reason the story of -their victory and sufferings will form the subject of the present -chapter. - -Victoria has the credit of this expedition. The movement originated in -the offer of L1,000 by Mr. Ambrose Kyte, on condition of this sum being -doubled by voluntary subscriptions. The terms were soon complied with, -after which the Government generously came to its aid by a vote of -L5,500. The arrangements were undertaken by a committee of the Royal -Society, and, as the funds were ample, it was determined to equip the -expedition on the most liberal scale. As a new feature in exploration, -two dozen camels were imported from India, and every provision was made -to secure the object on which the young colony had set its heart. The -only difficulty that remained was to find a competent leader. After much -delay had been occasioned through unsuccessful negotiation, the command -was finally given to an enthusiastic volunteer named Robert O'Hara -Burke. This remarkable man was a native of Ireland, but was educated in -Belgium, and had served as an officer in the Austrian cavalry. He -subsequently returned to the "Green Isle," and entered the constabulary -force. Having emigrated to Australia he received a similar appointment, -and held the position of inspector of police when this new honour was -conferred upon him. He was a brave and generous man--few, indeed, have -been more heroic and faithful--but, as he possessed little acquaintance -with Australian exploration, and was destitute of special qualifications -for the work, his appointment has generally been regarded as a mistake -on the part of the committee. The position of second in command, with -the office of astronomical observer, was conferred on William John -Wills, who had been born in Devonshire as late as 1834. He came out to -Australia while a mere youth, and for a time had to betake himself to -the humble occupation of shepherd, but being well educated and -possessing excellent gifts of head and heart, he soon rose to the -position of a government surveyor, and afterwards obtained the -honourable office of assistant astronomer in the Melbourne Observatory. - -The expedition, when fully organized, consisted of 15 men and 24 camels, -with twelve months' provisions, weighing in all 21 tons. The start was -made from Melbourne on the 20th of August, 1860--an imposing spectacle, -which has yet left its impression on the memories of many of the older -inhabitants of that city. By the committee's direction, they were to -march first to the Darling, next to the Lower Barcoo (Cooper's Creek), -and then strike northward for the Gulf of Carpentaria. Melbourne had -been left too late in the season, and this disadvantage was aggravated -by delays occasioned by the unwieldiness of the expedition and -insubordination on the part of some of the men. At length Menindie, on -the Darling, was reached. The name is new in the history of exploration, -but the locality is in the neighbourhood of Laidley Ponds, a quarter -which was then well known to the readers of Sturt and Mitchell. Burke -formed a depot here, in which he left the greater part of his men and -some beasts of burden to recruit from the fatigues of their toilsome -journey. Taking Wills, together with six men and 15 camels, he made his -arrangements for a quick journey across to the Barcoo. It had been his -intention to follow Sturt's old track, but he was dissuaded from his -purpose by a Mr. Wright, superintendent of a neighbouring pastoral -station, who told him of a better route further to the north, and -volunteered to conduct the party over it in person. Both the advice and -the offer were accepted; nor did experience fail to justify the change -of plan. Travelling was agreeable on this new route, and water found at -intervals of not more than 20 miles. The march from Menindie to -Torowotto was little short of a pleasure excursion, and Burke, with the -generosity which was part of his nature, now associated Wright -permanently with the expedition, giving him the position of third in -command. Being no longer needed as a guide, he was sent back from this -place to the depot on the Darling, with orders to bring forward the -heavy supplies with all convenient speed. The advance party continued -their progress into the interior, and, on the 11th of November, struck -the Barcoo, which was followed until a suitable place was found where -they might encamp till the arrival of Wright with the remainder of the -expedition. The delay proved to be longer than had been expected; and, -that the time might not be altogether lost, some explorations were made -in the surrounding country, and several promising routes to the Gulf -were examined with little satisfactory result. Worst of all, some of the -camels were lost, and although much time was consumed in the search, -they were never seen again by the explorers. Wright's delay was becoming -as vexatious as it seemed to be inexcusable. Six weeks had passed away -since he left Burke, and yet the whole distance from Menindie to the -encampment on the Barcoo had been traversed by the advance party in -twenty-two days. Chafed and irritated almost to madness under the -disappointment, Burke determined to endure it no longer, and resolved -"to dash into the interior, and cross the continent at all hazards." For -this purpose he again divided his party, taking with himself Wills and -two others, named King and Gray, together with six camels, one horse, -and twelve weeks' provisions. The camp was now transformed into a -permanent depot, in which were left four men, six camels, and four -horses. One of the party named Brahe was put in command, with -instructions to erect a stockade as a means of defence against the -natives, and to detain Wright after his arrival with supplies. Burke was -now entering upon the real difficulties of his gigantic undertaking, and -had at command only a mere fraction of the means which he had brought -out of Melbourne. But of hope and courage he had lost nothing. On the -16th of December he took leave of Brahe and his men, telling them, with -his wonted generosity, that if he were not back in three months, they -might consult for their own welfare as should appear to be necessary. - -Burke and Wills, together with their brave companions King and Gray, now -plunged into the unknown deserts and shaped their course for -Carpentaria. During the earlier stage the whole party rode on the camels -or the one horse that accompanied them, but the animals got weary, and -it became necessary to trudge it on foot. Burke and Wills walked ahead, -carrying a rifle and a revolver, while King and Gray followed with the -beasts of burden. Their progress was necessarily slow, even though they -had not encountered serious obstacles of a physical kind. Comfort, or -anything approaching to it, was utterly unknown. Night after night the -toil-worn wanderers encamped _sub Jove frigido_, without tents or -covering of any sort. Yet these hardships were endured without murmur or -regret. Burke is reported to have said he would not care though he had -only a shirt on his back, if so be that he could cross Australia. It is -impossible to give ample details of this northward journey, for the -materials are scanty. Burke was not much of a literary character, and -found it too irksome a task to keep a diary. Wills was vastly superior -in this respect, but yet his journal, otherwise so satisfactory, is -defective here. This much is certain, that they pursued a north-westerly -course through the interior, by way of what was afterwards known as -M'Kinlay Range, discovering and naming Gray and Wills creeks, Mount -Standish, and other topographical positions which have since become -prominent landmarks. By the 27th of January they had crossed the -northern watershed and come on to the Cloncurry, which led them to the -Flinders. This river was mistaken for the Albert, but was scrupulously -followed, in the hope that it would lead to the Gulf. After six weeks' -absence from the Barcoo signs of the neighbourhood of the ocean began to -appear. The waters of the Flinders became brackish, and gradually -widened into an estuary. A sight of the ocean would have gladdened the -eyes of the explorers beyond measure, but a forest of mangroves deprived -them of this gratification. Nevertheless, they had reached the mouth of -the Flinders, and were within the limits of the rise and fall of the -tide. The object which had cost so many sacrifices was accomplished at -last, _and the continent of Australia traversed from end to end_. - -The condition of the explorers was now pitiable in the extreme, and -never were men more in need of rest or had better deserved it; but to -rest here meant to perish, for only a fag-end of the rations was left, -and if they were to see the Barcoo depot again, it must be by subsisting -on the merest pittance for the next two months. For this reason no time -was lost at the Gulf, and the return journey was commenced on the 21st -February. The weather happened to set in wet, which was a real -misfortune, as it added immensely to the inconvenience of travel, seeing -their strength was almost spent. The camels broke down and had all to be -abandoned except two, which were also in a weakly state. The one horse -which had been brought from the depot was killed and eaten, to save the -provisions. In addition to all the other evils sickness began to affect -them, and Gray was so ill that he had to be strapped on the back of a -camel. The poor fellow, driven by starvation, had lately been caught -appropriating more than his share of the provisions, and was chastised -by Burke for the offence--an act of discipline which might have been -spared, for poor Gray was not to eat much more of the little store. Day -after day he was carried forward on the journey, but each night found -him getting weaker, and it was necessary to make a halt to let him die. -He breathed his last in a lonely wilderness, sacrificing his life -without a murmur to the cause which he loved not less than his master -did. His three surviving companions mournfully buried him in the desert -with such strength as was still left them, but were so exhausted with -the labour of digging his grave as to require a day's rest before -attempting to renew the journey. They, too, must have succumbed to their -troubles but for the sustaining power of hope, which told them the -longed-for depot could not now be far distant. Other indications also -pointed the same way, and in four days after leaving Gray's grave their -eyes were gladdened with the sight of the familiar landmarks of the old -camping ground on the Barcoo. Burke gathered up all his remaining -strength and made the desert ring with "cooeys" for his former comrades, -and listened for a reply; but, _horresco referens_, no response was -returned but the echo of his own voice. Could it be possible that the -depot was abandoned, and the miserable men left to perish in the -wilderness? The appalling thought was quickly succeeded by the -experience of the more terrible reality. The place of the encampment was -plainly visible, and the stockade still standing, but no human being to -break the solitude. Man could not suffer a more crushing disappointment; -and it is not surprising to hear that Burke now completely broke down. -But, after a short interval, one ray of hope sprang up from the depth of -despair. A marked tree happened to catch the eye of one of the -explorers, which contained the inscription, "Dig three feet westward." -Wills and King immediately began to excavate, but Burke was too much -unmanned to render any assistance. The hole was found to contain a chest -with some supplies and a letter of explanation. This unhappy day in the -experience of the explorers was the 21st of April, and the letter was -eagerly opened to ascertain what time Brahe and his men had left. The -date was also the 21st of April, at noon--in fact, the ink was scarcely -dry, for the letter had been written only seven hours before it fell -into the hands of Burke. It stated, in explanation, that they had -remained in the depot four months; that Wright had not come with the -supplies from Menindie; that the blacks were troublesome and their own -provisions exhausted. Moreover, as Burke had engaged to return in three -months, they considered, at the end of four, that he must have perished -or taken another route. - -What was to be done? To remain in the abandoned depot was to perish, for -the amount of provisions could only afford a very temporary relief. -Wills recommended an immediate move in the direction of Menindie, on the -track of Brahe and party; but Burke was strongly in favour of making for -South Australia, whose pastoral stations now reached as far as Mount -Hopeless. At first sight there seemed reason in this advice. Burke -argued that it was impossible to overtake Brahe in their emaciated -condition; that Menindie was 400 miles from the depot, whereas Mount -Hopeless was only 150; and that the Barcoo River might be expected to -supply them with water for the most of the route. The course to Mount -Hopeless was accordingly adopted. Thinking the depot might possibly be -visited by a relief party, they took the precaution of burying a letter -at the foot of the marked tree, stating the direction they had taken, -adding that their weak condition rendered it impossible to travel more -than four or five miles a day; but, by a strange oversight, left no -external indications which would lead such a relief party to conclude -that the place had been visited by the explorers. Having taken the -handful of provisions, Burke, Wills and King, together with the two -surviving camels, started for the most northern settlement of South -Australia, striving to make the shortest course, and coming on to the -river only when water failed them elsewhere. One of the camels, -unfortunately, got bogged, and had to be shot, after two days' labour -had been spent in trying to extricate it. As much of its flesh as could -be recovered was dried and added to the small and rapidly diminishing -store of provisions. They managed to save a little, also, through an -occasional present of fish from the native tribes, who, fortunately, -were very friendly. But a great and unexpected misfortune now befell the -unhappy explorers. The Barcoo, which had been reckoned on to supply them -with water, split up into several channels and lost itself in the -desert. One branch after another was followed for some distance, but -with no other result than the consumption of their provisions and the -loss of the one surviving camel. They were now reduced to dire extremity -through want of both food and water, and debated with themselves whether -they should continue the journey or return and encamp on the nearest -waterhole in the river, and endeavour to get subsistence from the -blacks. It was difficult to say how much ground had been travelled over, -but they supposed it must be somewhere about 45 miles. In reality it was -about double that distance; and if they could have made another good -day's journey to the south they would have seen Mount Hopeless raise its -friendly head above the horizon. But, by another of those fatal -decisions which haunted this expedition, they resolved to abandon their -journey and return to the banks of the river. Fighting against despair -even yet, they conceived a faint hope that the depot might have been -visited in the interim, and Wills, with the consent and advice of Burke -and King, walked back, as he was able, to see if any relief had arrived. -He reached the end of his journey on the 30th of May, but found no one -there, and saw no indications which could lead him to think the place -had been visited since his own party had left. Sorrowful at heart, but -brave in spirit to the last, Wills again retraced his steps, and -returned to his companions in a very exhausted condition; but he could -not have reached them at all without the help of the blacks. All three -were now destitute, and, with the exception of an occasional present of -fish, had nothing in the shape of provisions. But even yet there -appeared to be one resort which lay between them and death by -starvation. The country abounded with a plant called nardoo, the seeds -of which, when pounded and baked into a cake, were eaten by the natives. -The starving explorers adopted the same practice, in the hope of still -further prolonging their existence. But a little experience proved that -the nardoo cakes, although allaying the pangs of hunger, contained -little nourishment, and the heroic sufferers had now fallen into the -last stage of starvation. If they were to live at all, it was evident -they must cast themselves on the blacks, and trust to their charity. -Dreadful as the alternative was, they agreed to adopt it, for life is -sweet, even in the wilderness. But just here an insuperable difficulty -intervened, for the blacks were not at hand and had to be sought out. -Burke and King had yet strength to walk a mile, or perhaps two, in a -day. But poor Wills could walk no more, and yet he was willing that his -companions should go and save themselves, if too late to save him. They -put together a rude shelter, and left to seek the blacks, after taking -a sorrowful departure, which could hardly fail to be final, for his -life was visibly ebbing away. But they were not to go far. On the second -day Burke succumbed, and felt his end to be at hand. He was a brave man, -yet he shrank from the idea of dying alone, and entreated King to stay -with him until all was over. His dying request was religiously observed -by his trusty friend, who held him in his arms till he breathed his -last. Seeing he could render no more assistance there, King returned to -see how it was with Wills. It was all peace, for he, too, lay quietly -asleep in the arms of Death. Beside his dead body lay his journal, in -which he had made his last entry with his trembling hand, noting the -aspect of the weather, and added, with a stroke of pleasantry even yet, -that he was just like Mr. Micawber, waiting for something to turn up. -Such was the end of William John Wills, the most amiable and -noble-minded of Australia's explorers. His life was one of singular -promise, and great things might have been expected from him had he not, -unhappily, perished in his youth. He was only 27 years of age when he -fell a sacrifice to the incompetency of others whom he served or -trusted. The disconsolate King was now alone in the wilderness, with his -dead leaders on either side of him. Having performed his last duties to -the departed, as best he could, he sought and found his sable -benefactors, who received him as one of themselves, and proved by their -conduct that hospitality towards the distressed is a virtue which even -savages can exercise. - -Having seen the last of Burke and Wills, and left King safe for the -present in the hands of the friendly aborigines, let us return to the -Barcoo depot, in the hope of finding some explanation of the mystery -which enshrouds that most unlucky centre of operations. Brahe, as has -been already noticed, took his departure on the 21st of April, bound for -Menindie. He had travelled only eight days when Wright was met coming -on, _at last_, with the bulk of the supplies for the expedition. After a -brief consultation the two leaders resolved to come on to the Barcoo -depot, which they reached in another eight days. Burke and party had -been there during the interval, but as they left no external marks, -Wright and Brahe, after a few minutes' cursory examination, concluded -the depot had not been visited, and almost immediately took their -departure for Melbourne, without putting themselves to the trouble of -opening the hole at the foot of the marked tree, where the explorers' -letter was concealed. Again the place was left without any external -indications for the direction of their friends, who might return, and -when the depot was visited by Wills, about a fortnight later, he -concluded, in the absence of such indications, that no one had been -there since his own party left. - -Almost everyone connected with this expedition is to blame in some -degree for the disasters in which it ended. The committee at Melbourne -went to sleep, and were aroused to vigorous action when it was too late. -Burke and party were at fault in leaving the depot for Mount Hopeless -without making some external marks which might catch the eye of anyone -who should come with supplies. Brahe and Wright were guilty of -unpardonable neglect in finally leaving the Barcoo depot without opening -the _cache_, to see whether the depot chest of provisions had been taken -or not. But the real author of the disasters was Wright, who loitered -four months at Menindie, while the heroic explorers were slowly dying of -starvation. He alleged in his defence that Burke had asked him to remain -until his own appointment was confirmed by the Melbourne committee. But -this is extremely improbable, and is contradicted by Burke's own -despatches. For the shortcomings of the others a tolerable excuse may be -made, but for the cruel conduct of Wright there is neither justification -nor defence, for all the evidence saddles him with the responsibility of -the horrible tragedy in which this once splendid expedition closed its -career. - - - - -CHAPTER XIII. - -SEARCH EXPEDITIONS IN QUEST OF BURKE AND WILLS. - - -As time passed on and no trustworthy tidings of the missing explorers -could be obtained, anxiety on the part of the Melbourne public became -unbearable. An active search was demanded with an urgency which was not -to be resisted. A manifold effort was soon put forth on an unprecedented -scale, and in this enterprise Victoria was materially assisted by the -sister colonies. This combined action marks the meridian of Australian -exploration, which, when finished, left little more to be done in the -eastern half of the continent. Within the space of two years--from 1860 -to 1862--it was crossed no fewer than six times, in as many different -directions, by exploring parties. The search expeditions all took the -field about the same time. Alfred Howitt was despatched from Melbourne -on the footsteps of Burke and Wills; John M'Kinlay was sent from -Adelaide to search the Barcoo and surrounding districts; Frederick -Walker was commissioned to start from Rockhampton and proceed to the -north; while William Landsborough was instructed to begin at -Carpentaria, and examine the country to the southward as far as might be -necessary. With a view to the support of all these parties, as -opportunity might offer, Captain Norman was sent with the _Victoria_ to -form a relief depot on the Albert River, at the Gulf of Carpentaria. -There are thus four search expeditions which call for a brief review. - - -I. - -Mr. Alfred W. Howitt, son of William and Mary Howitt, so well known to -the literature of their country, was sent from Melbourne to the Barcoo -(Coopers Creek), by the route which had been taken by the missing -expedition. Near Swan Hill he met Brahe, returning with the intelligence -that Burke and Wills had not appeared at the depot. Proceeding by way of -Menindie and Poria Creek the Barcoo was reached on the 8th September, -1861, and the depot at Fort Wills on the 13th. The _cache_, on being -opened, was found to contain papers showing that the explorers had been -there since returning from Carpentaria. The members of the expedition -having thereafter dispersed in different directions in quest of -information, one of them soon came back with the welcome news that King -had been found. The sequel had better be given in Howitt's own -words:--"I immediately went across to the blacks' wurleys, where I found -King, sitting in a hut which the natives had made for him. He presented -a melancholy appearance, wasted as a shadow, and hardly to be -distinguished as a civilized being but by the remnant of clothes upon -him. He seemed exceedingly weak, and I found it occasionally difficult -to follow what he said. The natives were all gathered round, seated on -the ground, looking with a most gratified and delighted expression. I -camped where the party had halted, on a high bank, close to the water, -and shall probably remain here ten days, to recruit King before -returning." The story, as given by King, is soon told. From the time he -saw his companions dead to the day he was discovered by Howitt's party -he had been about two months and ten days in the wilderness. He remained -by himself some days before going to the blacks. Upwards of two months -had thus been spent with the aborigines. Though desiring to be quit of -him at first, they afterwards became very well reconciled to his -company. On the whole they behaved very well to the white stranger. As -soon as King was able to walk he proceeded seven miles down the creek -with the relief party, and showed them the remains of Wills, which he -had buried under the sand. At a distance of about eight miles further -they found also the body of Burke, which was now interred with due -solemnity. The object of the expedition having been thus accomplished, -preparation was made for the return to Melbourne, but before starting -the camp of the natives was again visited, and some presents -distributed, in acknowledgment of their humane treatment of the forlorn -King. - -Soon after this party returned home, a second expedition was organized, -under the same leader, to bring the bodies of Burke and Wills to -Melbourne. After reaching the Barcoo, a considerable time was spent in -the further exploration of the surrounding country. The Stony Desert -was visited, and a horse captured which had been lost by Captain Sturt -18 or 19 years before. Having at length taken possession of the bodies, -they first conveyed them to Adelaide, by the route which the explorers, -when living, had wished in vain to travel. This part of the journey was -traversed in seven days. The remains of the two men who had been the -first to cross Australia were thence conveyed to Melbourne, where they -were interred with every mark of respect for their noble characters, and -many a token of regret for the neglect which had left them to perish in -the wilderness. - - -II. - -Although the object which called forth all the search expeditions was -completely attained by the first alone, it is yet worth while to give -some attention to the other three, on account of their indirect services -in the work of exploration. We shall take next in order the South -Australian effort. On the 16th of August, 1861, Mr. John M'Kinlay was -despatched from Adelaide, with a party of 10 men, 4 camels, 24 horses, -12 bullocks, and 100 sheep. Blanchewater, 400 miles distant, was crossed -at Baker's station. The journey thence to Lake Hope was made through a -dry and stony country. From this part all the way to Sturt's Stony -Desert the country was poor, but contained an abundance of lakes and -creeks, which were well supplied with fish. Leaving a depot at Lake -Buchanan, M'Kinlay set out for the Barcoo, again passing through a -region of lakes. In the country now visited a number of natives were -found wearing pieces of European clothing. A white man's grave was -pointed out by the blacks and opened by the explorers. It was really -Gray's grave, but they were as yet in ignorance of the true facts of the -case, and were, moreover, grossly misled by the aborigines, who pointed -to a lake and told them they had killed and eaten white men there. -M'Kinlay, hastily concluding that this must have been the end of the -missing expedition, called the place Lake Massacre, and reported -accordingly to the authorities at Adelaide. Fearing that they intended -to make the like quick despatch with himself and party, M'Kinlay -commanded his men to fire upon them, which made the whole lot decamp. -This was an unfortunate misapprehension, for the blacks, instead of -meaning to be hostile, were only giving expression to their joy after a -fashion of their own. It was, in fact, the same tribe that had treated -King so well, and they must have been terribly surprised by such an -abrupt termination to friendly intercourse. But, in the presence of such -strangers as they had encountered, it was a risky thing to boast of -killing and eating white men. Having returned to the depot on Lake -Buchanan, and thence sent to Blanchewater for supplies, M'Kinlay -received correct information regarding the fate of the missing -expedition. There was, therefore, no need of doing anything more in this -connection; but, being well supplied with all necessaries, he wisely -resolved to continue his journey of exploration across the continent. On -the 17th of December they were again on the march, heading in a -north-easterly direction, which led them through a country barren in -soil, but abounding in lakes much frequented by waterfowl. These lakes -were quite as much a distinguishing feature of this region as the -springs had been of the country discovered by M'Douall Stuart to the -east of Lake Eyre--soon to be noticed. Further travelling was rendered -difficult, first by excessive rain, and next by intolerable heat. -Christmas Day was spent at a splendid lake, called Jeannie, which was -found to be the haunt of innumerable waterfowl. Here many natives were -observed pounding the nardoo seed between two stones, which was then -baked and roasted on the ashes. At this camping-ground good feed was -found for the stock, and the men also were supplied with abundance of -fish by the blacks. During the night their sable neighbours proved -rather too noisy, but when a rocket was sent up it had the effect of -causing a dead silence till morning. The next stage led on to another -lake, but it was through a country containing little vegetation except -polygonum, samphire, and saltbush. One journey more brought them to a -magnificent lake, which M'Kinlay called the Hodgkinson, after the second -leader of the expedition. A three-days' excursion from this centre ended -in the discovery of quite a number of lakes, abounding in excellent -fish. The expedition had now spent four months in a region of lakes, -full or dry, with many creeks and flooded hollows. This was a great -surprise in a country which bordered so closely on Sturt's Stony Desert, -and is still one of the enigmas of the physical geography of Australia. -On the 6th of January a fresh departure was made for the north, but, -after weeks of fruitless toil in the midst of a drought, a return had to -be made to Lake Hodgkinson, where it was resolved to remain in camp till -rain fell. During this enforced delay M'Kinlay, unable to brook -idleness, took a small party and made an assault on Sturt's Stony -Desert, intimating that he might be absent for three weeks. Four days -proved to be quite enough, as he met with nothing but dry lakes, red -sand-hills, and bare stones, although he had penetrated 57 miles into -this solitude. Having returned to the camp there was nothing but the -unpleasant experience of waiting for rain, while the provisions were -running down with an uncomfortable rapidity. Here, too, the blacks, -presenting themselves in companies of 400 or 500, were anything but -agreeable neighbours. The explorers also had to put up with heat, flies, -ill-health, and all manner of inconveniences, till the 10th of February, -when rain came and released them from confinement. They had now to -flounder in the mud through a country which is described as utterly bare -of grass, like a field which had been ploughed and harrowed, but not -sown. On the 13th an old camp of Burke's was passed, and by the 7th of -next month Sturt's Stony Desert was left behind their backs. Towards the -middle of March some tracts of well-grassed country were reached, and -named the Downs of Plenty. During the remainder of this month, also, -they traversed a tolerably good country, which seemed, however, to be -bordered by deserts. Tropical Australia was now entered upon, and during -the whole of April the course lay through the most luxuriant vegetation. -About the beginning of May the track of Burke on the Cloncurry was -crossed. The Leichhardt River was reached during the same month. Here -the country was simply magnificent, the grass being up to the horses' -necks. Another stage brought the expedition to Stokes's Plains of -Promise. Finally, on the 18th, they advanced to the tidal waters of the -Gulf of Carpentaria, but dense forests of mangrove forbade their -approach to the shore. Under date of the 19th of May, and while resting -in the 60th camp, M'Kinlay wrote as follows:--"I consider we are now -about four or five miles from the coast. There is a rise in the river -here of six and two-thirds feet to-day, but yesterday it was a foot -higher. Killed the three remaining sheep, and will retrace our steps on -the 21st." These were the last of the 100 sheep which were started with -the expedition. M'Kinlay had the credit of being the first to take sheep -across the continent of Australia. They now made for the coast of the -Pacific, which was struck at Port Denison, but not till a thousand -obstacles were overcome and nearly all the camels and horses eaten to -keep themselves alive. - - -III. - -On the same errand Mr. Frederick Walker, Commander of Native Police, was -sent from Rockhampton to the Albert River by the Queensland authorities. -Taking a party of mounted troopers, he proceeded to Bauhinia Downs, on -the Dawson, where the expedition was finally organized on the 7th -September, 1861. The River Nogoa was reached on the 16th, after which he -pushed on through Walker's Pass to the River Nivelle. By the 27th he had -made the Barcoo, which was followed down for three days, during which -traces both of Gregory and Leichhardt were discovered. From the Barcoo a -passage was made to the Alice through much spinifex country. After -crossing the watershed between the Alice and the Thomson, a fine -tributary of the latter, called the Coreenda, was met with. By the 16th -of October they had got into a country of high mountains, where the -natives were observed to be armed with iron axes and tomahawks. Some -traces of Leichhardt were also found in this quarter. The advance was -now continued through a hilly country in a north-west direction to lat. -21 deg., where they fell in with the head-waters of the Barkly, a large -tributary, or a main section, of the Flinders River, which led them -through splendid country. Another fine tributary of the Flinders was -soon after discovered, and called the Norman, in honour of the captain -of that name who was in command of the depot on the Albert. Nothing -further of special interest occurred till the 30th of October, when -they were attacked by a large party of armed natives. Walker commanded -his men to fire upon them, when a dozen of these unfortunate creatures -fell under his guns. There is reason to fear that the leader's -experience as an officer of black troopers had led him to hold the lives -of the aborigines too cheap and to forget that they were human beings, -of the same blood and brotherhood as ourselves. The explorers now -followed the Norman River, but had to dig in its channel for water. On -the 25th of November they reached the junction of the Norman and the -Flinders, the latter of which being a large and beautiful river. Here -the track of Burke and Wills was discovered, leading south, but could -not be followed till fresh supplies were obtained from the depot on the -Albert. Early in December the expedition came on to the Leichhardt, and -then to the Albert River, the latter flowing over plains and flooded low -flats, where the tracks of several other explorers were seen. On the 7th -the depot was reached and found to be under the superintendence of -Captain Norman. Walker had thus made the journey in three months and -twelve days from Rockhampton. In point of celerity, our annals of -exploration contain nothing to beat this record. After passing thirteen -days at the depot, Walker started anew to follow up the track of Burke -and Wills which he had been fortunate enough to discover. He succeeded -in running it southward to the ninth camp of the missing expedition, -when it ceased to be discernible, in consequence of the abundance of -vegetation and the obliterating action of floods. Thinking Burke had -turned off to make for the east coast, Walker altered his course to the -same quarter, and made a vain attempt to follow him up. After much -harassing travel he struck the Burdekin River, at Strathalbyn station, -where his troubles came to an end. Making next for Port Denison, he -proceeded thence to Rockhampton, which was reached on the 5th of June. -The journey had thus occupied five months and two weeks. Burke and Wills -were not found, of course, but much good country was discovered and the -geography of Northern Australia materially advanced. - - -IV. - -The last of these efforts to bring relief to the missing explorers was -Mr. William Landsborough's expedition. The honour of being a _search_ -party has frequently been denied to this enterprise. Landsborough was -plainly accused of having interested objects in view; and it must be -confessed that his journal contains little to refute this charge, for it -scarcely ever alludes to Burke and Wills, nor would any reader be likely -to suspect that its author was in search of anyone in particular. Be -this as it may, in cannot be doubted that, in all other respects, this -expedition was a most fortunate one, and excelled all the rest in the -extent of fine country which it brought to light. To the leader himself -it must have seemed more like a vacation tour than a perilous journey -through an unknown land. With a party of three white men and three -blacks, Landsborough sailed from Moreton Bay to Carpentaria on the 24th -of August, 1861. Starting from the shores of the Gulf, he explored the -Albert River, under different names, for about 120 miles. This tract of -country being exceedingly dry, and the blacks troublesome, he was -compelled to return to the depot on the Albert. Captain Norman told him -that Walker had been there reporting the discovery of Burke's track on -the Flinders. This route was accordingly followed from the Gulf to the -source of the river, but neither the tracks of Walker nor Burke were -found. After leaving the Flinders, the Thomson was followed, and then -Cooper's Creek (Barcoo) was reached on the 19th of April. From this -position to the settled districts a route was found without -difficulty--indeed, with great ease to Landsborough. On the 21st of May, -being 103 days from the start, Williams's station, on the Warrego, was -reached, where intelligence was first received regarding the fate of -Burke and Wills. The remainder of the journey across the continent was -made by the Darling River and Menindie to Melbourne. It proved of the -highest value to the squatting interest, and led to the occupation of an -immense extent of country for squatting purposes. After an experience of -twenty years in Australia, Landsborough testified that the best land he -had seen was in the district of Carpentaria. - - - - -CHAPTER XIV. - -JOHN M'DOUALL STUART'S EXPEDITIONS IN THE SOUTH, TO THE CENTRE, AND -ACROSS THE CONTINENT. - - -The brave adventurer who is next to engage our attention must be placed -in the front rank of explorers. John M'Douall Stuart was excelled by -none, and equalled by few, in the special qualities which command -success in the arduous enterprise to which he devoted his life. As a -practical bushman he probably stands without a rival. From first to last -he spent over twenty years in the exploration of Australia, during which -time he was the leader of six expeditions, in all of which he made -important discoveries, and never failed to bring home his men, who had -put their lives in his keeping. He first served under a great master, -Captain Sturt, whom he accompanied in the capacity of draughtsman to the -expedition which started for the centre of Australia in 1844. His own -responsible and eminently successful labours in the same field will be -sketched in the sequel. It is not too much to claim for M'Douall Stuart -the palm of martyrdom in the cause which lay so near his heart. It is -true that after his work was done he was not left without honours, and -also rewards, both in land and money, but by that time he had lost the -capacity for enjoying any of these things. From his last journey he -returned, or rather was carried, more dead than alive, racked with the -pains of scurvy, contracted in the centre of the continent, which he was -the first to discover. He subsequently rallied a little, but never -recovered his health, and died in England in 1869. - - -I. - -The first of Stuart's journeys was undertaken on the solicitation, and -also at the expense, of his friend Mr. Wm. Finke, and had for its object -the discovery of new pastoral country in the unknown territory to the -west and north-west of Lake Torrens. On the 10th of June, 1858, Stuart -started from Mount Eyre with only two men, a white man and a -blackfellow, taking with him a small complement of horses and a too -scanty allowance of provisions. The first section of the journey, which -was rugged and sterile, lay to the west of Lake Torrens, whose surface -was occasionally sighted. Water was found at moderate distances on this -part of the route, but the rough and stony country proved a serious -difficulty to the horses, which were imperfectly shod. This contingency -had been strangely overlooked, and no shoes had been provided for the -journey. The blackfellow, who was supposed to know this country -intimately, soon got bewildered, and proved of no service for the -purpose he was intended to forward. The leader, being thus thrown upon -his own resources, was also greatly inconvenienced in shaping his -course by the frequent and extraordinary illusions of the mirage of the -desert. Referring to one of these perplexing occasions he says:--"I -think we have now made the dip of the country toward the south, but the -mirage is so powerful that little bushes appear like great gum-trees, -which makes it very difficult to judge what is before us; it is almost -as bad as travelling in the dark. I never saw it so bright or so -continuous as it is now; one would think the whole country was under -water." Failing to obtain the object of his search in the north-west, -Stuart now directed his journey to the south and east, exploring the -central region between Lake Torrens and Lake Gairdner. In this quarter -some small patches of fairly good country were found, but the water, in -the few places where it was met with, proved to be as bitter as the sea. -The blackfellow now, thinking it time to shift for himself, took the way -that pleased him best, leaving only the white man, Foster, to assist -Stuart in the thick of his difficulties. Hope of a successful issue to -their labours was now fast ebbing from the breasts of these indomitable -adventurers. After journeying hither and thither for 1,000 miles, they -had failed in the prime object of the expedition, their provisions were -rapidly disappearing, and the horses were too footsore to travel an -ordinary day's march. At this stage the monotony of the scene was broken -by a high mountain coming into view, which Stuart named Mount Finke, and -from the summit of which he ventured to hope for a better prospect, or, -if not, to alter his course. "If I see nothing from the top of the mount -to-morrow," said he, "I must turn down to Fowler's Bay for water for the -horses.... As I could not remain quiet, I got on one of the lower spurs -of Mount Finke to see what was before me. The prospect is gloomy in the -extreme. I could see a long distance, but nothing met the eye but a -dense scrub, as black and dismal as midnight." From this mount, -accordingly, a straight course was steered to the sea-coast, during -which every camping-place is marked on the map by the name of "desert." -In the matter of provisions, they had for some time been reduced to one -meal a day, and toward the close of the journey it was found that only -two more remained to carry them a distance of 100 miles. In this dire -extremity they were glad to feed on kangaroo mice, which, happily, were -here to be found in great abundance. They are described as elegant -little creatures, about four inches in length, of the shape of a -kangaroo, with a tail terminating in a sort of brush. By means of this -resource against starvation the explorers were enabled to cross the -remaining stages of the desert, and so reached the habitations of -civilized men. - - -II. - -Mr. Stuart was the first explorer who reached the centre of Australia. -The journey which led to this memorable achievement is worthy of -detailed narration; but before entering upon this story it may be -proper to say a few words on two preliminary essays in exploration, -which, in some measure, opened the way to this much-desired result. - -About six months after his return from his first expedition, this -indefatigable explorer started on a new journey to examine the extensive -territory lying to the north of Lake Torrens and the east of Lake Eyre. -This country proved, in some respects, a surprise to Australian -discovery. It turned out to be unusually well watered, being furrowed at -moderate intervals by a series of creeks, some of which were entitled to -the name of rivers. But its most astonishing feature consisted in the -myriads of springs, in groups ranging from two or three to more than a -dozen in number. Some of these sent forth a stream of water which might -have turned a mill-wheel, and continued to run a mile from the source. -From this circumstance the whole territory has, not inaptly, been called -the "spring" country. Another dominant feature was seen in the -extraordinary abundance of quartz reefs, many of which bore plain -indications of being auriferous, but, of course, could not be fairly -tested by any appliances which were then to hand. Towards the close of -the same year (1859) another journey was made to this part of Australia, -when more accurate surveys were obtained, and the boundaries of a number -of squatting runs laid down. In both of these expeditions important -service was rendered to the better knowledge of this country, but they -were especially valuable as furnishing Stuart with an advanced -starting-point for his heroic project of crossing the continent from -south to north. This arduous, but happily successful, enterprise will -now be described in its main outlines. - -This expedition, which consisted of only three men and thirteen horses, -set out on the 2nd of March, 1860, from Chambers's Creek, a valuable -water supply which had been discovered by Stuart in 1858. For some time -his course lay through an extensive tract of country which, though yet -unoccupied, had become well known to this, its first explorer. Toward -the northern part they followed the River Neale, which furnished plenty -of water, and led them into the unknown country. The next important -creeks to be discovered and crossed were the Hamilton, the Stephenson, -and the Finke. After crossing the latter there began to heave into sight -a strange and striking mountain structure, which presented the -appearance of a locomotive engine with its funnel. "We proceeded," says -the journal, "towards this remarkable pillar through heavy sand-hills -covered with spinifex, and, at 12 miles from last night's camp, arrived -at it. It is a pillar of sandstone, standing on a hill upwards of 100 -feet high. From the base of the pillar to its top is about 150 feet, -quite perpendicular, and it is 20 feet wide by 10 feet deep, with two -small peaks on the top. I have named it Chambers's Pillar, in honour of -James Chambers, Esq., who has been my great supporter in all my -explorations." Much good country had been traversed before this point -was reached; indeed, the whole of this route was a surprise in this -respect, as it had been expected to land them in a great central desert. -Instead of finding a barren wilderness, the continuation of the journey -brought them into another splendid tract, watered by a creek named the -Hugh, which, after being followed for a long distance, terminated in a -high mountain-chain. To scale its rugged flanks and penetrate the dense -thickets of mulga proved to be a most formidable task, their clothes and -skin being torn in forcing a passage through the living and the dead -timber. This range--the James--was succeeded by two other chains, which -were named the Waterhouse and the M'Donnell Ranges, the latter of which -have since become a well-known landmark in the history of more recent -explorations. Stuart thus describes the view he obtained from the north -gorge of these mountains:--"From the foot of this for about five miles -is an open grassy country, with a few small patches of bushes. A number -of gum-tree creeks come from the ranges and seem to empty themselves in -the plains. The country in the ranges is as fine a pastoral hill-country -as a man could wish to possess--grass to the top of the hills, and -abundance of water through the whole of the ranges." Still heading -northward, the expedition reached a position, on the 22nd of April, -which is very memorable in the annals of Australia. The goal which had -proved the incitement to so many sacrifices during a long period of our -history was now reached at last. Mr. Stuart was standing in the centre -of the continent. This achievement, of which he might well have been -proud, is intimated by the following modest entry in his diary:--"To-day -I find by my observation of the sun--111 deg. 0' 30''--that I am now camped -in the centre of Australia. I have marked a tree and planted the British -flag there. There is a high mount about two miles and a half to -north-north-east. I wish it had been in the centre; but on it, -to-morrow, I will raise a cone of stones and plant the flag there and -name it Central Mount Stuart." This ceremony was performed on the day -following, when a fine view was obtained from the summit of this, high -mountain. The aspect of the central region of Australia must have been a -surprise to the first discoverer, for it falsified the prophecies of -half a century. The centre of Australia was as much a matter of -curiosity and conjecture in our early history as the North Pole is at -the present time. Oxley was first in the field, with his pet theory of -an inland sea. This conjecture received its quietus from Sturt, but it -was only to make room for the opposite fallacy of a stony desert. Now, -at last, when the veil was lifted and the reality disclosed, it turned -out to be just that which nobody had prophesied and few had ventured to -expect. It was simply a fine country, abounding in grass, and fairly -supplied with water. Both now and afterwards it was used by Stuart as a -recruiting-ground for his toil-worn expedition. Leaving part of his -little force here for the present, the leader made a tentative effort -to ascertain whether there was any practicable route out west to the -Victoria River. Finding none, he returned, and kept steering his former -course. As if the centre had been the natural goal of the journey, he -met with nothing but difficulties in the attempt to penetrate further to -the north. He himself had fallen a victim to scurvy, which was only -slightly relieved by the native cucumber, his only resource. Water -became even harder to find. The horses, also, which were too much of the -cart breed, did not well stand a hard pinch. Above all, the blacks, who -had never been friendly, became the more hostile the further the -expedition advanced. The crisis was reached when they made an encampment -on Attack Creek. Here the aborigines set fire to the grass, and tried -every stratagem to separate the explorers from their horses, after which -there would soon have been an end to the expedition. Failing in this -device, they next mustered their forces and attacked the strangers in -the proportion of ten to one. Even so, they had to come off second best -for the time being. Nevertheless, Stuart deemed it scarcely prudent to -oppose himself to a tribe of warlike blacks in the centre of Australia, -with an army consisting of two men, all told, himself being -commander-in-chief. Nothing further remained but to submit to the -inevitable, which he accordingly did, and returned to the most northern -settlements of South Australia. - - -III. - -Mr. Stuart reached Adelaide in October, 1860. When it became known that -he had encamped in the centre of Australia and pushed his way -considerably further north, the public enthusiasm again rose to fever -heat in the cause of exploration. The Parliament, which never failed in -its duty in this business, again came forward with a vote of L2,500 to -provide for another and a larger expedition, which was speedily -organized, with the old and well-tried explorer for its leader. He took -with him seven men, thirty horses, and thirty weeks' provisions. The -former route was followed, with a little deviation, as far as Attack -Creek, the scene of the previous repulse. In all his journeys Stuart had -the shrewdness to search out and follow up mountain-systems, as being -the physical conformation most likely to furnish the needful supply of -water. Still on the look-out for this good fortune, Attack Creek had not -been far left in the rear when an elevated chain--the Whittington -Range--was discovered, and followed for a long distance. It led them on -to Tomkinson's Creek, containing a large supply of water, which -served as a base for immediate operations, and was afterwards -turned to good account as a retreat in time of difficulty. Another -mountain-system--named the Warburton--was met with in the next stage of -the journey. Like the former, it was heading too much to the north to -suit Stuart's intention of making for the Victoria River, on the -western coast. Breaking away from the mountains, repeated attempts were -made to find a route in the required direction. The high lands soon -shaded away into an interminable, but very fertile champaign country, -which received the name of Sturt's Plains, in honour of the "father of -Australian exploration." But it proved to be absolutely arid, and -blocked on all sides by impenetrable scrubs, varied only by low red -sand-hills. Through these impervious scrubs, on the west, a passage -would have to be forced, or the expedition must end in failure. The -latter alternative was not to be thought of till every expedient had -been exhausted. Leaving a portion of his force in the depot, Stuart, -three several times, started with a light party to pierce his way -through the most forbidding obstacles he had ever experienced in his -journeys. It was with the greatest difficulty the horses could be -brought to face this formidable barrier; and when forced to do so, the -animals were injured and the explorers' clothes torn to shreds. It was -hard to persevere in the face of such sacrifices; yet it was done -manfully enough, and might have been crowned with success but for the -absolute failure of water. The furthest point reached in these assaults -on the impervious west was only a hundred miles distant from Gregory's -last camp on the Camfield; and if this short space could have been -bridged over the final aim of the expedition would have been easily -attained. To accomplish this object, Stuart did all that man could do in -such a situation. Nothing could be more admirable than the pluck and -perseverance displayed in this conflict with the impossible. But he, -too, like all mortals, had to yield to stern necessity. With a heavy -heart he turned his back on the coveted north-west and retreated to the -old camping-ground on the Tomkinson. Even yet unwilling to leave any -alternative untried, he now modified his plan, and proposed to strike -north for the Gulf of Carpentaria, if such a course might be possible. -This, unhappily, it proved not to be. His path was effectually barred in -this direction also. After the most desperate effort nothing remained -but to abandon the enterprise and return to the haunts of civilization. -The following entry in his journal shows with how much regret this -retreat was forced upon him:--"It certainly is a great disappointment to -me not to be able to get through, but I believe I have left nothing -untried that has been in my power. I have tried to make the Gulf and the -river (Victoria) both before rain fell and immediately after it had -fallen, but the results were the same--_unsuccessful_. I shall commence -my homeward journey to-morrow morning. The horses have had a severe -trial from the long journeys they have made, and the great hardships and -privations they have undergone. On my last journey they were one hundred -and six hours without water." So ended this second heroic effort to -cross the continent. Notwithstanding his defeat, Stuart had succeeded in -penetrating one hundred miles beyond the furthest point reached on the -previous journey. His most advanced position was lat. 17 deg. long. 133 deg. - - -IV. - -Now, at last, we are to see the reward of perseverance. If Fortune has -any favour for the brave, it was time to smile on John M'Douall Stuart. -Two noble efforts had ended in failure, but this third attempt was to be -crowned with complete success, and land the explorer on the much-coveted -shores of the Indian Ocean. A month had not elapsed since his return -from the second journey when the Government of South Australia -despatched him on his third and final expedition. Being provided with -reinforcements, he left the settled districts in January, 1862, and by -the 8th of April had reached Newcastle Water, the most northern -camping-ground of the former journey. Without loss of time he made a -renewed attempt to pierce the north-western scrub and carve his way to -the Victoria River. But again his Herculean struggles proved to be only -wasted effort. This route was accordingly abandoned, finally and for -ever, as being absolutely impracticable. The line of march was now -directed to the north, with a view of cutting the track of Leichhardt's -and Gregory's discoveries, and thus gaining the Roper River, which -enters the Gulf of Carpentaria. This new project proved more easy in the -accomplishment than he had ventured to expect. There were, of course, -stubborn obstacles to be overcome; but water, the great requirement, -was found at manageable intervals, bringing the party on, by a -succession of ponds, first to the Daly Waters, and thence to an -important river, which was named the Strangway. This bridge over the -wilderness conducted them to the much-desired Roper River. It is -described as a noble stream, draining a magnificent country, and -exceeding in volume any the explorers had hitherto seen. This clue -having been followed in the direction of its source, led the expedition -a long way towards its destination on the shores of the Indian Ocean. -After it failed them by turning too far to the north, only a short -intervening tract had to be crossed before the Adelaide River, one of -the known western streams, was reached. Again the route lay through some -of the finest country in Australia, containing much that was new both in -flora and fauna. The valley of this river was constantly revealing to -the eyes of the strangers some botanical surprise--giant bamboos, -fairy-like palms, and magnificent water-lilies on the placid bosom of -its longer reaches. There was only one drawback, and that a rather -serious one. It was the paradise of mosquitoes, which made a common prey -of the intruders, allowing them no rest by night, and leaving mementos -of their attachment that could not be forgotten during the day. But -through pleasure and pain the expedition pushed on towards the -attainment of its purpose. The leader so managed the last stage as to -make the conclusion of the journey a surprise to his men. He knew the -ocean to be near at hand, but kept the good news a secret till his party -should be in a position to behold it with their own eyes. "At eight -miles and a half," says he, "we came upon a broad valley of black -alluvial soil, covered with long grass. From this I can hear the wash of -the sea. On the other side of the valley, which is rather more than a -quarter of a mile wide, is growing a line of thick heavy bushes, very -dense, showing that to be the boundary of the beach. Crossed the valley -and entered the scrub, which was a complete network of vines. Stopped -the horses to clear a way, while I advanced a few yards on the beach, -and was gratified and delighted to behold the waters of the Indian -Ocean, in Van Diemen's Gulf, before the party with the horses knew -anything of its proximity. Thring, who rode in advance of me, called out -'The sea!' which so took them all by surprise, and they were so -astonished, that he had to repeat the call before they fully understood -what was meant. They then immediately gave three long and hearty -cheers.... I dipped my feet and washed my hands, as I had promised the -late Governor, Sir Richard McDonnell, I would do if I reached it. Thus I -have, through the instrumentality of Divine Providence, been led to -accomplish the great object of the expedition, and to take the whole -party safely as witnesses to the fact, and through one of the finest -countries man could wish to behold. From Newcastle Water to the -sea-beach the main body of the horses have been only one night without -water, and then got it the next day." The Union Jack was now hoisted, -and near the foot of a marked tree there was buried, in a tin, a paper -containing the following inscription:--"The exploring party under the -command of John M'Douall Stuart arrived at this spot on the 25th day of -July, 1862, having crossed the entire continent of Australia, from the -Southern to the Indian Ocean, passing through the centre. They left the -city of Adelaide on the 26th day of October, 1861, and the most northern -station of the colony on the 21st day of January, 1862. To commemorate -this happy event they have raised this flag, bearing his name. All well. -God save the Queen!" Burke and Wills had crossed the same continent to -the Gulf of Carpentaria nearly eighteen months earlier, but this -achievement in no way detracts from the merit of Stuart's success, for -his journey was entirely independent of their, or any other, expedition. -The felicitous termination of this splendid enterprise marks a principal -era in the history of Australian exploration. It led directly to three -important results--the annexation of the northern territory to South -Australia, the establishment of a colonial settlement at Port Darwin, -and the construction of the transcontinental telegraph along almost the -whole route of this expedition. - - - - -CHAPTER XV. - -COLONEL WARBURTON'S JOURNEY ACROSS THE WESTERN INTERIOR. - - -M'Douall Stuart's crowning feat in exploration was soon turned to good -account. The idea of a transcontinental telegraph now passed from the -realms of Utopia and became a realized fact. The commercial interests of -Australia had been urgently in need of communication with the -Indo-European lines already existing, but the great desert of the -interior was believed to interpose an impenetrable barrier. Now, at -last, this misconception, which had been founded on ignorance, was -removed by Stuart, who discovered a belt of good country stretching -across the interior and reaching to the Indian Ocean. Along this route, -with few deviations, the line runs from the Adelaide extension in the -south to Port Darwin in the north. In this most creditable enterprise, -which was completed in 1872, South Australia spent L370,000, and -rendered excellent service to the exploration, as well as to the -commercial interests, of Australia. Here was a new base-line for -explorers, intersecting the continent from end to end. This advantage -was not long in being put to practical use. In South Australia the -question of further exploration began to be agitated as soon as the line -was opened. The Government was importuned for means to provide for an -expedition to cut through the western interior, starting from the -telegraph line at the centre of the continent. No aid was obtained from -this quarter; nevertheless, the projected tour of discovery did not fall -through, for two private gentlemen, the Hon. Thomas Elder and Mr. W. W. -Hughes, now came forward and offered to bear the expense of the -expedition. The next important step was the choice of a leader, who was -happily found in Colonel P. E. Warburton. This brave man was born in -Cheshire, England, in 1813. He was early trained for the military -profession, and served in India from 1831 to 1853. About the latter date -he came out to South Australia, where he was appointed Commissioner of -Police, and subsequently held the position of Commandant of the -volunteer forces till 1874. During these later years he had been engaged -in several essays in exploration, in which he rendered good service to -his country and prepared himself for the perilous, but successful, -journey with which his name will ever be associated. - -The proper starting-point for the expedition was fixed for Alice -Springs, a station on the overland telegraph, situated almost in the -centre of Australia; and it was the leader's intention to make for the -city of Perth, in the west, by the most direct course that could be -found--a purpose which came to be considerably modified under the -pressure of a terrible necessity. The rendezvous, 1,120 miles distant -from Adelaide, was reached by way of Beltana, along a route now -beginning to be pretty well known, and all was prepared for the start by -the 15th of April, 1873. The expedition, now first in the line of march, -consisted of Colonel Warburton as leader, R. Warburton (his son), J. W. -Lewis, D. White, two Afghans, and a black boy. The only beasts of burden -were camels, which amounted to seventeen in number, and the supply of -provisions was calculated to last for six months. The route for a short -distance northward kept the line of the telegraph, till the Burt Creek -was reached, after which it deflected toward the west. The difficulties -which beset this journey began at the beginning and continued to its -close, only increasing in severity with terrible consistency. Want of -water compelled them again and again to retreat to former encampments, -thus causing a great part of the route to be travelled over two or three -times. From this cause the eastern boundary of South Australia had to be -crossed three times before permanent progress could be made in the -proper course. From first to last the country proved to be a barren -waste, without creek or river affording a supply of water. In the -earlier part of the journey an occasional oasis was met with containing -permanent lakelets, at which the explorers would gladly have lingered to -recruit themselves and rest the camels; but this delay meant consumption -of the provisions, which it soon became evident were too scanty from the -first. Warburton wisely resolved to feel his way as he proceeded through -the desert by sending scouts in advance to search for water. This was -seldom found, except in extremely sparse wells, which were used by the -aborigines, and sometimes indicated by the smoke of their camps, but in -hardly a single instance was direct information obtained from the -blacks. The native wells in the sand not unusually indicated, rather -than contained, water, and had often to be excavated to much greater -depth. In this way, for the most part, was the desert crossed. When -water was announced, an advance was made one stage further and a search -party again sent out. It often happened that no water could be found by -the scouts after the most exhausting search, further progress being thus -rendered impossible. In these cases there was no help for it but to -change the direction, as far as their object would permit, and seek -another tentative route. This was indescribably trying to their spirits, -but the other alternative was to perish in the sand. On some few -occasions the clouds came to their relief and burst in thunderstorms. -Even when only a slight shower fell, a few buckets of water were secured -by spreading a tarpaulin on the ground. On the 9th of May a deep glen -was found in a range of hills. Here was an excellent supply of water, -shaded by basalt rocks, rising to the height of 300 ft. Here, too, the -weary wanderers rested for a few days, as also at Waterloo Wells, a -little ahead, for which they had to pay a penalty in the permanent loss -of four camels, which suddenly decamped. They were tracked for a hundred -miles, but never recovered. Hitherto their progress had been slow and -discouraging. They had travelled 1,700 miles, but were yet at no great -distance from Alice Springs. Nor was the outlook any more encouraging. -Day after day it was the same weary journeying over spinifex ridges and -sandy valleys, without any indication of the fine country they had hoped -to discover; but, to their credit be it said, no one even hinted about -giving up the enterprise. By the 17th of August a notable stage in their -progress was reached. Warburton ascertained that he could not be more -than ten miles distant from the most southern point reached by Mr. A. C. -Gregory in 1856. The Colonel ascended a neighbouring hill to see if he -could catch a glimpse of Termination Lake, into which Sturt's Creek had -been found to empty itself. This salt lake was concealed by a range of -sand-hills; but Warburton verified his position, and thus had virtually -connected his own survey from the centre with the Gregory discoveries in -the north. Advancing slowly, but surely, towards the west, a fine -freshwater lake was discovered on the 30th. It abounded in waterfowl, -which were more easily shot than recovered, as they had no means of -reaching them in the water. From this point onward their troubles began -to thicken with ominous rapidity. Eight of the seventeen camels were -gone, while the stock of provisions, too, began to appear uncomfortably -small, and had to be dealt out with a niggardly hand. It now became -evident to the Colonel that the original plan of proceeding to Perth -was impracticable, and he resolved to head further to the north, so as -to strike the Oakover River and save the expedition. Their troubles were -truly most afflicting in this great and terrible wilderness. The heat -and toil of travelling wore them out by day, and myriads of black ants -deprived them of their sleep at night. They were now living on camels' -flesh, dried in the sun, the only sauce being an occasional bird which -fell to their guns. By the 2nd of November they had been reduced to dire -extremity, both of famine and thirst. The Oakover was estimated to be -about 150 miles distant, and it was resolved to make a rush for it, -taking their chance of an accidental discovery of water to keep them in -life, for it was now a question of mere life and death. Respecting this -latter and awfully perilous stage of the journey, it will be better to -let Colonel Warburton speak for himself. The following extracts are from -the entries in his journal as made during the crisis of his sufferings, -when hope was fast giving place to despair:--"We killed our last meat on -the 20th October; a large bull camel has, therefore, fed us for three -weeks. It must be remembered that we have had no flour, tea, or sugar, -neither have we an atom of salt, so we cannot salt our meat. We are -seven in all, and are living entirely upon sun-dried slips of meat which -are as tasteless and innutritious as a piece of dead bark.... We have -abandoned everything but our small supply of water and meat, and each -party has a gun.... We are hemmed in on every side: every trial we make -fails; and I can now only hope that some one or more of the party may -reach water sooner or later. As for myself, I can see no hope of life, -for I cannot hold up without food and water. I have given Lewis written -instructions to justify his leaving me, should I die, and have made such -arrangements as I can for the preservation of my journal and maps.... My -party, at least, are now in that state that, unless it please God to -save us, we cannot live more than 24 hours. We are at our last drop of -water, and the smallest bit of dried meat chokes me. I fear my son must -share my fate, as he refuses to leave me. God have mercy upon us, for we -are brought very low, and by the time death reaches us we shall not -regret exchanging our present misery for that state in which the weary -are at rest. We have tried to do our duty, and have been disappointed in -all our expectations. I have been in excellent health during the whole -journey, and am so still, being merely worn out from want of food and -water. Let no self-reproaches afflict any respecting me. I undertook -this journey for the benefit of my family, and I was quite equal to it -under all the circumstances that could be reasonably anticipated, but -difficulties and losses have come upon us so thickly for the last few -months that we have not been able to move. Thus, our provisions are -gone; but this would not have stopped us could we have found water -without such laborious search. The country is terrible. I do not -believe men ever traversed so vast an extent of continuous desert." They -were, indeed, brought to the last extreme of misery. But man's extremity -is God's opportunity. A search party found a good well about twelve -miles distant, which supplied all their necessities, and saved their -lives. Another fortnight brought the forlorn wanderers to a creek with a -good store of water at intervals. This proved to be a tributary of the -Oakover, to the banks of which they were thus led by such stages as -could be travelled in their deplorably emaciated condition. The -outskirts of civilization were all but reached. The pastoral station of -De Grey was believed to be only a few days' travelling down the river, -and a small detachment was sent to implore succour. The distance was -really 170 miles, and three weary weeks had to be spent in hoping -against hope till relief arrived. Help did come in abundance, and as -speedily as was possible in the circumstances. The toils of the -wilderness wanderings were now over; all that remained was a terrible -retrospect. It was reckoned they had not travelled less than 4,000 -miles, including deviations and retreats when further advance became -impracticable through want of water. The result, looked at from an -explorer's point of view, was, of course, a flat disappointment. Some -had confidently expected to hear of a good pastoral country being -discovered in the western interior which would prove a new home to the -enterprising squatter, and be depastured by myriads of flocks and -herds. Instead of this wished-for discovery, Colonel Warburton had to -follow in the wake of Captain Sturt, and tell yet another tale of an -arid desert with dreary ridges of sand succeeding each other like the -waves of the sea--a country of no use to civilized, and very little to -savage, man. Yet, even so, a good service had been rendered to the -knowledge of Australian geography. Where the truth has to be known it is -something even to reach a negative result. If the western interior is a -desert, it is a real gain to have this fact ascertained and placed on -record. Another question set at rest by this expedition is the -incomparable superiority of camels in Australian exploration, in point -of endurance and in making long stages without water. A horse requires -to be watered every twelve hours, but a camel will go without it for ten -or twelve days on a pinch. This was not the first time they had been -tried in Australia. Burke and Wills started with more "ships of the -desert" than Warburton; but the mismanagement which involved that -enterprise in fatal disaster deprived the experiment of a fair chance of -success. Warburton's was pre-eminently the camel expedition of -Australia. The result justified the means. With all the aid of these -invaluable beasts of burden the expedition, indeed, was brought to the -very brink of ruin; but without them everyone must inevitably have -perished. - - - - -CHAPTER XVI. - -THE HON. JOHN FORREST'S EXPLORATIONS IN WESTERN AUSTRALIA. - - -This distinguished explorer is a native of West Australia, and an honour -to his country. He is a man of ability, well educated, and thoroughly -competent for the work to which he has devoted so much of his time and -attention. In early life he entered the Survey Department, where his -services were appreciated and rewarded by an appointment, in 1876, to -the office of Deputy Surveyor-General. Mr. Forrest has gained -imperishable laurels in the field of exploration. His services in the -three following expeditions entitle him to a high position among the -Australian explorers. A short notice of each is all that our space -permits. - - -I. - -About the close of 1868 a report reached Perth to the effect that -natives in the eastern districts knew of a party of white men who had -been murdered some twenty years earlier. This rumour was strongly -confirmed by a gentleman who had penetrated into the interior in search -of sheep-runs. He reported that his native guide had assured him he had -been to the very spot where the murder had been committed, and had seen -the remains of white men. His story was very circumstantial, stating -that it was on the border of a large lake, and that the white men were -killed while making damper. He volunteered, moreover, to conduct any -party to the scene of the murder. The story possessed a sufficient -likeness to truth to impose on grave and sober-minded men. Among these -was Baron Von Mueller, of Melbourne, who organized a party to proceed to -the spot, in the hope of finding the remains of Leichhardt's expedition. -He intended to take the lead himself, but this purpose he had to change, -through business engagements, and the expedition accordingly was placed -under the command of Mr. John Forrest. The route lay to the north-east -from Perth. The party was able to penetrate 250 miles in advance of -former expeditions. This was, so far, another gain to the knowledge of -Australian geography; but the new country was found to be unsuitable for -pastoral or agricultural purposes. In regard to its principal object, -the expedition turned out a complete failure, adding only one other -proof of the utter worthlessness of aboriginal testimony. The -blackfellow who had led them out with such confidence made some -significant admissions as they proceeded on the journey. First, he had -not, properly speaking, been at the place himself, or seen the relics, -but had heard of them from others of the black fraternity; then, again, -he could not be sure whether they were the bones of men or horses--more -likely, perhaps, the latter. Finally, it was pretty clearly ascertained -that the whole story had originated from the remains of a number of -horses which had belonged to the explorer Austin, and were poisoned in -that neighbourhood. No traces of Leichhardt were found in that quarter, -nor is it at all probable that he had penetrated so far west. - - -II. - -Almost immediately after returning from the search after Leichhardt, Mr. -Forrest was put in command of a second expedition. Governor Weld was -anxious to obtain a more accurate survey of the southern coast between -Perth and Adelaide, with a view to telegraphic connection. The largest -and most difficult part of the route lay along the Great Australian -Bight, which had been traversed with terrible suffering by Mr. E. J. -Eyre thirty years previously. Since that time a little more information -had been gained, tending to lessen the horrors of travel in that -forbidding region; and Port Eucla, a valuable harbour, had been -discovered just within the eastern boundary of West Australia. But the -whole of the southern country from Perth to Adelaide required to be -examined afresh for the object which was now contemplated. Mr. John -Forrest was easily persuaded to lead this expedition, which consisted of -his brother, Mr. Alexander Forrest, as second in command, Police -Constable M'Larty, a farrier, and two aboriginals. A small schooner, the -_Adur_, was despatched, to wait with supplies at Esperance Bay, -Israelite Bay, and Port Eucla--an arrangement which greatly lessened -the difficulties and dangers of the expedition. After reaching the Great -Bight the party followed, in a reverse direction, the line of Eyre's -journey, keeping a little more inland, though they were never more than -thirty miles from the sea. So far as the old explorer's tracks were -followed, Forrest had the advantage of finding an occasional supply of -water as indicated on the chart, and when he deviated from this route he -was well rewarded by the discovery of better, and sometimes of really -first-class country. The season, though too dry, seems to have been less -so than when Eyre encountered the perils of this region, and for this -reason occasional surface water was found, in very limited quantities. -Yet on several of the long waterless stages both men and horses were -near their last gasp in the agonies of thirst. From Port Eucla an -attempt was made to penetrate for some distance to the north, in the -interest of discovery. The land appeared, and has since been proved, to -be of the best quality, but absolute want of water compelled the -explorers to beat a retreat when they had proceeded only about thirty -miles inland. The expedition again started on its proper course and -rounded the head of the Bight. Soon an escort was in readiness from -South Australia, which led them through the Gawler Ranges to the city of -Adelaide. The party had started on the 30th of March, 1870, and their -destination was reached on the 27th of August--not half the time Mr. -Eyre had required for a much shorter journey. This new adventure in -exploration was highly successful. A practicable route for the telegraph -having been found, the line was constructed in the course of another -year or two, thus connecting Perth with the intercolonial and also with -the European telegraphic systems. Fine reaches of the best pastoral -country were examined or indicated lying to the north of the wretched -seaboard, the only drawback being the absence of permanent water. This -difficulty is now being overcome by boring, by which means an ample -supply is obtained at a reasonable depth. The latest proposal is to run -a railway from Perth to Port Eucla, with probable extension to Adelaide. -A syndicate has offered to construct it on the land-grant system, -engineers are presently engaged on the survey, and its completion may be -accepted as one of the great events of the near future. - - -III. - -Mr. John Forrest's third expedition was much more arduous, as it was -also of greater geographical importance, than either of the preceding. -Before the transcontinental telegraph was fully completed, he proposed -to the authorities at Perth to lead an exploring party across the centre -of Western Australia from Champion Bay to the route of the new line, on -condition of a grant from the Treasury of L400 for expenses, himself -engaging to provide another L200. The proposal was gladly accepted, and -no time was lost in making the necessary preparations. His party, as -finally organized, consisted of Alexander Forrest, five whites, two -aboriginals, and twenty-one horses. It being resolved to keep the line -of the Murchison to its sources, the start was made from Geraldton, -Champion Bay, on the 1st of April, 1874. For some time the course lay to -the south of the river, which was not joined till the 23rd, after which -beautifully grassed country was travelled over. The Murchison in its -upper waters divided into several channels, causing some perplexity. One -of these was selected, and followed as far as it served their purpose, -and then the course was directed to the watershed. Now they found -themselves in a dry, barren land, which afforded the scantiest supply of -water, and only after laborious search--sometimes not even then. -Occasionally, but only at long intervals, a good native well was -reached, when the temptation to rest for several days was irresistible. -To the most noted of these Mr. Forrest gave the name of the Weld -Springs, in honour of the Governor, who ever did his utmost to forward -the exploration of the interior. The encampment at Weld Springs was not -an unbroken pleasure. The blacks were numerous in the neighbourhood, and -irreconcilably hostile. Finding his party assailed with murderous -intent, Forrest, seeing it had become a question of self-defence, fired -upon the natives, and some blood was shed. But for this act of stern -necessity, it is evident that the explorers must have perished. This -pleasant spot was but an oasis in a great desert, which became the more -inhospitable the further they penetrated into its secrets. For 600 -miles they had to thread their way through a wilderness of spinifex, -sometimes also approaching the verge of despair through want of water, -in search of which the scouts had always to scour the country. In this -desert the natives were seldom seen, and still more rarely could they be -induced to come within speaking distance. At one place they decamped on -the first appearance of the intruders on their desert home, leaving a -whole kangaroo roasting on the fire. This would have been quite a -godsend for Warburton and his party, but happily the present expedition -was never reduced to such dire necessity. In another respect, too, -Forrest seems to have had better luck than his brother explorers. During -the latter part of his journey a kind of fig-tree (_Ficus platypoda_) -was occasionally met with, producing an agreeable fruit about the size -of a bullet. Such a discovery in the wilds of Australia is nothing short -of a marvel. Nature has reserved few such favours for this country. Yet -still better fortune was at hand. It became evident, first by faint and -then by very plain indications, that they were coming on the tracks of -Europeans. Only a short time previously Mr. Giles and Mr. Gosse had -separately been out in these parts, but had to return for want of water. -Still, a marked tree or an old camping-ground was an inspiring object, -seeing they had been made by travellers who had started from the -opposite end of the journey. Much yet remained to be done, but the -ground was now got over with much better heart. The monotony of the -desert-wandering had been much relieved in a manner highly creditable to -Mr. Forrest. Here, as in all his explorations, he remembered the Sabbath -day to keep it holy. Regularly, as the Sunday came round, divine service -was read in the camp. Even the old habit of a good Sunday dinner was not -forgotten. People in different circumstances might not have thought the -cheer much to be envied; but hunger is the best sauce. If a pigeon or a -parrot could be secured at the seasonable time it was reserved as a -special treat for the Sunday dinner. But better things were in store. -Perseverance had not much longer to wait for its reward. Following the -tracks of the preceding explorers, they came on to the Marryat River, -which led them on to the Alberga, and this clue finally conducted the -weary wanderers to the long-desired telegraph line. The journal of the -expedition contains the following entry for the 27th August, -1874:--"Continued east for about twelve miles, and then E.N.E. for three -miles, and reached the telegraph line between Adelaide and Port Darwin, -and camped." [The 104th camp from the start.] "Long and continued cheers -came from our little band as they beheld at last the goal to which we -have been travelling for so long. I felt rejoiced and relieved from -anxiety; and in reflecting on the long time of travel we had performed -through an unknown country, almost a wilderness, felt very thankful to -that good Providence that had guarded and guided us so safely through -it." A well-beaten track had now been made along the telegraph line, -which the party followed, proceeding to the south. In a day or two the -Peak station was reached. From this point the journey to Adelaide was -made by easy stages. Forrest's track lay a long way south of -Warburton's, and threw a streak of light across another dark region of -the western half of Australia. The results of the journey are thus -summed up in the explorer's own words:--"The whole of the country, from -the settled districts near Champion Bay to the head of the Murchison, is -admirably suited for pastoral settlement, and in a very short time will -be taken up and stocked; indeed, some has already been occupied. From -the head of the Murchison to the 129th meridian, the boundary of our -colony, I do not think will ever be settled. Of course, there are many -grassy patches, such as at Windich Springs, the Weld Springs, all round -Mount Moore, and other places; but they are so isolated, and of such -extent, that it would never pay to take stock to them. The general -character of this immense tract is a gently undulating spinifex -desert--_Festuca (Triodia) irritans_, the spinifex of the desert -explorers, but not the spinifex of science. It is lightly wooded ... and -there is a great absence of any large timber." - - - - -CHAPTER XVII. - -MR. ERNEST GILE'S EXPLORATIONS IN CENTRAL AND WESTERN AUSTRALIA. - - -Mr. Ernest Giles is a native of Bristol, in England. As soon as his -education was finished he rejoined his father and family, who had -preceded him to Australia. He very early developed a passion for -exploration, and gained valuable experience in connection with various -expeditions which he served in a subordinate capacity. His own fame as -an explorer rests securely on the following enterprises:-- - - -I. - -Shortly after the construction of the Port Darwin telegraph, Mr. Giles -made a persevering attempt to lead a small party from Chambers's Pillar -to the sources of the Murchison River. The expenses were provided partly -by himself and partly by Baron Von Mueller, of Melbourne. The party -consisted of Messrs. Giles, Carmichael, and A. Robinson, with fifteen -horses and one dog. The start was made about the middle of August, 1872. -For the early part of the journey the River Finke was followed, but it -led them into a rugged, mountainous country, in which travelling was -difficult. The scenery was often charming, as one glen after another was -explored. Palm-Tree Glen, in particular, called forth unceasing -admiration on account of the multitude of wild flowers which were "born -to blush unseen and waste their sweetness on the desert air." "I -collected to-day," says Mr. Giles, "and during the other days since we -have been in this glen, a number of most beautiful flowers, which grow -in profusion in this otherwise desolate glen. I am literally surrounded -by fair flowers of many a changing hue. Why Nature should scatter such -floral gems in such a sterile region is difficult to understand; but -such a variety of lovely flowers of every colour and perfume I have -never met with previously. They alone would have induced me to name this -the Glen of Flowers, but having found in it also so many of the stately -palm-trees, I have called it the Glen of Palms." During a further -advance among the outlying spurs of the M'Donnell Ranges, the Finke was -left, or lost, and laborious search had often to be made for water. The -mountains were high, but no creek was found with a longer course than -twelve miles. The peaks often assumed strange and fantastic shapes, as -the explorers have indicated by such names as Mount Peculiar, Haast's -Bluff, &c. The following quotation from the journal shows how they were -straitened at this time through want of water. After finding a little in -the hollow of a rock, just sufficient to save life, Mr. Giles says:--"It -was necessary to try to discover more water if possible, so, after -breakfast, I walked away, but, after travelling up gullies and gorges, -hills and valleys, I had to return quite unsuccessful, and I can only -conclude that this water was permitted by a kind Providence to remain -here in this lovely spot for my especial benefit.... I have, in -gratitude, called it Mount Udor, as being the only one in this region -where a drop of that requisite element was to be obtained. And when I -left the udor had departed also." This incident occurred at the -twenty-first camp from Chambers's Pillar. From this point a persevering, -but unsuccessful, effort was made to strike out west in the direction of -a chain named Ehrenberg's Mountain. Want of water again forced the party -back on Mount Udor. A more southerly route led to the important -discovery of a great saltwater lake, which was called Amadeus, after the -then King of Spain, son of Victor Emanuel. Beyond this long, but -comparatively narrow, sheet of water, a conspicuous mountain, named -Olga, specially attracted the attention of Mr. Giles, who was anxious to -reach it by rounding the lake. But this labour was prevented by an -incident which, unhappily, caused the purpose of the expedition to -collapse. Robinson had been seized with homesickness, and the infection -reached Carmichael, who obstinately refused to proceed any further. -Giles tried the effect of moral suasion, which was the only weapon -available for a volunteer. He pleaded the large supply of provisions, -the importance of the enterprise, and the ignominy of turning back. But -it was to no purpose. Carmichael had made up his mind and would listen -to no arguments. Giles was now compelled to direct his march back to -the telegraph line, "a baffled and beaten man." During this inglorious -retreat the course lay by the Peterman, the Palmer, and the Finke -rivers, and by this route the original camp No. 1 was reached. Here is -the conclusion of the whole matter in Mr. Giles's own words:--"My -expedition was over. I had failed in my object (to penetrate to the -sources of the Murchison River) certainly, but not through any fault of -mine, as I think any impartial reader of my journal will admit.... We -travelled to the eastward along the course of the River Finke -(homeward), and passed a few miles to the south of Chambers's Pillar, -which had been my starting-point. I had left it but twelve weeks and -four days to the time I re-sighted it, and during that interval I had -traversed and laid down about a thousand miles of country. My expedition -thus early ends. Had I been fortunate enough to have fallen upon a good, -or even fair, line of country, the distance I actually travelled would -have taken me across the continent." - - -II. - -A second attempt was made by the same explorer shortly after his return -from the first. The funds being provided by the liberality of the -Victorian colonists, a light party, consisting of Messrs. Giles, -Tietkens, Gibson, and Andrews, with twenty-four horses, were despatched -for the purpose of crossing the western half of Australia. They left the -telegraph road at the junction of the Stevenson and Alberga creeks on -the 4th of August, 1873. The latter was followed for some distance -westward, after which, by a short cross-country route to the north, the -Hamilton River was reached, and taken as a guide so far as was -practicable. This journey led to the discovery of four remarkable -mountain-chains. The first of these was named Anthony Range. From one of -the summits they beheld a sea of mountains, countless in number, many of -which presented the most comically fantastic shapes and forms which the -imagination can conceive. Ayer's Range was next reached, and an equally -commanding view obtained from one of its heights. The next was the -Musgrave Range, occupying a central position in a far-reaching expanse -of good country. Here the natives were encountered in a hostile -attitude, but were beaten off by the superior arms of four white men. -After a journey of 400 miles they reached Mt. Olga, which had been -sighted on the former expedition. In this neighbourhood also, they found -the tracks of Mr. Gosse, a contemporary explorer, which led to a -deviation from the proposed route. In Cavanagh's Range a depot was -established, as a basis for tentative explorations in a forbidding tract -of country. About 110 miles from this centre they made a welcome -discovery of a waterfall of 150 feet, sending forth a musical roar as it -fell, and scattering around a plentiful shower of spray. This gladdening -apparition in the desert received the name of the Alice Falls. The -country in the immediate neighbourhood was also well grassed. This -place has doubtless a future in store for it. Turning more to the north, -in the direction of a broken country, another splendid range, named the -Rawlinson, was discovered. It extended to 60 miles in length, with a -breadth of five or six. The peaks were remarkably pointed and jagged. -From this position an attempt was made to strike out in a north-westerly -direction, but bad fortune compelled them to return after Mt. -Destruction had been reached. Four of the horses had been lost in a -journey of ninety miles; water was not to be found; the natives were -troublesome; and the eye could discern nothing ahead but spinifex desert -and rolling sand-hills. A return to the Rawlinson Range was, therefore, -imperative. Having again rested for a little, another determined effort -was made to force a passage due west across the interior and strike the -outposts of settlement in Western Australia. All was done that man could -do, but impossibilities are not to be accomplished. The western flanks -of the Rawlinson Range faded away into a barren and waterless desert. -Giles and Gibson had, as a gigantic effort of perseverance, penetrated -98 miles into this inhospitable waste. But no further could they go. -Here, on the 23rd of April, the utmost bourne of the expedition was -reached. One of the two horses here knocked up and died. This was the -last time Gibson was seen. Giles did his utmost to bring him help, but -he was never found. His bones lie somewhere in that awful wilderness, -which to this day bears his name. When the furthest point was reached -better fortune seemed to loom in the distance. Another range of lofty -mountains was descried athwart the western horizon, which he called the -Alfred and Marie, after the Duke and Duchess of Edinburgh. They might as -well have been in the moon so far as Mr. Giles was concerned in his now -pitiable plight. His own reflections were deplorably bitter:--"The hills -bounding the western horizon were between thirty and forty miles away, -and it was with extreme regret that I was compelled to relinquish a -further attempt to reach them. Oh, how ardently I longed for a camel; -how ardently I gazed upon the scene! At this moment I would even my -jewel eternal have sold for power to span that gulf that lay between. -But it could not be; situated as I was, I was compelled to retreat, and -the sooner the better." Such was his destiny. After almost twelve -months' wanderings in the wilderness, three of the four explorers -escaped with their lives, and reached the central telegraph line on the -13th of July. - - -III. - -Such battling with relentless fortune would have extinguished the spirit -of adventure in most men. In the case of Mr. Giles it fanned it into a -brighter flame. Refusing to be baffled, his noble perseverance was at -length rewarded with a double journey across the western half of the -continent. This expedition was fitted out by Sir Thomas Elder, of -Adelaide, who supplied him with nineteen camels and provisions for -eighteen months. The party consisted of Messrs. Giles, Tietkens, Young, -A. Ross, P. Nicholls, Selah (an Afghan), and a black boy. The route -proposed was from Youldah to Perth, and the start was made on the 27th -July, 1875. This, though a successful, was a very trying journey. They -crossed desert after desert for a distance of 1,500 miles. On one -occasion they were reduced to the last extremity of thirst, and saved -from perishing by the happy discovery of a spring in the Great Victoria -Desert, 600 miles from the out-settlements of Western Australia. They -reached Perth on the 10th November, having travelled a distance of 2,575 -miles in about five months. The following is Mr. Giles's summary of the -journey:--"The expedition has been successful, yet the country traversed -for more than a thousand miles in a straight line was simply an -undulating bed of dense scrub, except between the 125th and 127th -meridians, the latitude being nearly the 30th parallel. Here an arm of -the Great Southern Plain ran up and crossed our track, which, though -grassy, was quite waterless. The waters were, indeed, few and far -between throughout. On one occasion, a stretch of desert was encountered -in which no water was obtainable for 325 miles, which only the -marvellous sustaining powers of Mr. Elder's all-enduring beasts enabled -us to cross. The next desert was only 180 miles to a mass of granite, -where I saw natives for the first time on the expedition. They attacked -us there, but we managed to drive them off. Mount Churchman was now only -160 miles distant, and we found water again before reaching it. We -struck in at Toora, an out-station, where the shepherd was very -hospitable. At other homesteads we were most kindly welcomed." By -another journey, in a reverse direction, across the western interior, -Mr. Giles returned to the central telegraph, which for so long had -formed his base of operations. Leaving Perth on the 13th of January, -1876, he pushed north, and struck the Ashburton River, thence passed -through 150 miles of desert, and from the opposite side reached the -Alfred and Marie Range, from which he had been so piteously thrust back -in 1873. He soon after reached the Rawlinson Range, which he had -discovered on that same expedition. Being now in a known country, he -passed safely through it, and reached the Peak telegraph station on the -23rd of August, 1876. His journey thence to Adelaide was ordinary travel -in the Australian bush. - - - - -CHAPTER XVIII. - -OTHER EXPLORERS IN WESTERN AUSTRALIA.--CONCLUSION. - - -There still remain a considerable number of the explorers of Western -Australia, whose achievements, though inferior to the foregoing, would -have called for particular notice had this been an exhaustive work. A -very brief outline of the journeys of the most prominent is all that can -be attempted here. We shall begin with Captain, afterwards Sir George, -Grey, so well known in later times as a New Zealand statesman. From 1837 -to 1840 he was occupied with two expeditions for the exploration of the -country lying between the coast and the first range. Both journeys were -exceedingly hazardous--none more so in this department of history. -During the first Prince Regent's River was explored; but the most -important result was the discovery of the River Glenelg, which was -described as one of the finest in Australia. The second expedition was -directed to Shark's Bay, which was reached in February, 1839. The most -important discovery during this journey was the River Gascoyne. The -expedition was soon overtaken by terrible misfortunes, which compelled -the party to make for Swan River by the quickest route. The first -attempt was made in a small boat, which got no further than Gantheaume -Bay, where it was dashed to pieces on the beach. To save their lives -they had now to walk on foot along an inhospitable coast for 300 miles, -with no more provisions than twenty pounds of flour and one pound of -pork to each man. Grey struggled along and gave a heroic example to the -men under his charge. When he arrived at Perth he looked like a spectre, -and his most intimate friends did not know him. He has himself told us -what was the secret of his moral strength:--"It may be asked," he said, -"if, during such a trying period, I did not seek from religion that -consolation which it is sure to afford. My answer is, yes; and I further -feel assured that but for the support I derived from prayer and frequent -perusal of the Scriptures, I should never have been able to have borne -myself in such a manner as to have maintained discipline and confidence -among the rest of the party; nor in my sufferings did I ever lose the -consolation derived from a firm reliance upon the goodness of -Providence. It is only those who go forth into perils and dangers, -amidst which human foresight and strength can but little avail, and who -find themselves day after day protected by an unseen influence, and ever -and anon snatched from the very jaws of destruction by a power which is -not of this world, who can at all estimate the knowledge of one's own -weakness and littleness, and the firm reliance and trust upon the -goodness of the Creator which the human heart is capable of feeling." - -The next in order is Mr. J. S. Roe, Surveyor-General of Western -Australia. With a party of six men, eleven horses, and four months' -provisions, he started from York in September, 1848, for the southern -part of the colony. Leaving the last stations of the River Avon, he went -S. 1/2 S. in a direction which had not yet been explored. In a short -time he got into a poor country, which contained the heads of the Avon, -the Williams, the Arthur, and other rivers. In 45 miles further he came -to the Pallinup River, the last water which had been crossed by Eyre on -his journey along the Great Bight. He followed it to the neighbourhood -of Cape Riche, the latter part of this stage being through a -well-grassed country. Here a squatting station was found, and a -much-needed rest obtained. The next effort was to make the Bremer Range. -In the intervening part, a river, the Jeeramungup, was discovered in a -good tract of country, which was again succeeded by poor land. The -Bremer Range was reached by the 3rd November. There was a hard journey -thence to the Russell Range, which was near Eyre's country, and of the -same description. The coast was reached opposite the Recherche -Archipelago. Roe had now travelled 1,000 miles from Swan River, and -found it necessary to return, and in doing so kept very much to Eyre's -track as far as Cape Riche. The most important result of this journey -was the discovery of several seams of coal. The return to Perth was made -by way of the Pallinup River. The party had been absent 149 days, and -travelled 1,800 miles. - -The third explorer who shall be briefly noticed is Mr. R. Austin, who -was Assistant Surveyor-General. He was despatched by the Government to -search for gold in the country north and east of the settled districts. -The party consisted of ten men, twenty-seven horses, and 120 days' -provisions. By the 10th of July, 1854, they had left the head of Swan -River, and entered on a wretchedly poor country, in which all the bushes -were dead. Another fifty miles' travel brought them to a table-land with -some high mountains, the most conspicuous of which received the name of -Mt. Kenneth. Soon after a severe mishap befell the expedition. The -horses having eaten a poisonous plant, twenty-four died within a few -hours, leaving the explorers in a very helpless condition. They pushed -on, nevertheless, and displayed an admirable perseverance. On the 24th -of August they reached a magnetic hill, which was called Mt. Magnet, and -returned for rest to Recruit Flat. The country next traversed lay -between the Great Salt Lake and West Mt. Magnet, dry, rough, and stony -throughout. One curious discovery was a cave with life-like figures of -animals drawn by the aborigines. Some similar exhibitions of savage art -had previously been discovered by other explorers in the north and west. -The party came again to poisonous bushes, and the horses had to be -watched night and day. Thence, taking a westward course, they got within -fifty miles of Shark's Bay, when want of food compelled them to retreat -to the Geraldine mines on the Murchison River. Here the party broke up, -some returning to Perth by sea and the rest overland. The expedition -failed in its principal object; nor was it in other respects much of a -success. - -It would be unpardonable to close this list without mention of Mr. F. T. -Gregory's services in the exploration of West Australia. In April, 1858, -he led an expedition from the Geraldine mines to examine the country -between the Gascoyne River and Mt. Murchison. This effort was attended -with much success. At least a million acres of good land were -discovered--quite a Godsend for this colony, which is so rich in -deserts. The principal places discovered and named were Mt. Nairn, -Lockyer Range, Lyons River, the Alma, and Mt. Hall. - -* * * * * - -It is but right to add that the exploration of the interior has been -largely indebted to private enterprise, of which there is no particular -record. The pioneer squatters, in search of "fresh fields and pastures -new," have not been afraid to invade unknown territories, nor have they -gone without their reward. When a fine patch of country has been -discovered they have usually been quite willing to sacrifice their merit -as explorers to the caresses of private fortune, being mindful, perhaps, -of the old proverb which tells us "the crow would have more to eat if he -were less noisy over his food." The same cause has been helped on, also, -by the search for gold, than which nothing will entice man further from -home, or collect them in greater crowds. In this way much available -country has lately been opened up in the Kimberley district of Western -Australia, and the process is still going on, with many promising -prospects. It is extremely probable that this northern region will soon -be reckoned one of that colony's most valuable possessions, both in the -squatting and the mining interests. - -As the combined result of all the foregoing agencies, Australia has -virtually ceased to be an unknown land by the close of the first century -of our history. Even the great desert of Western Australia, real or -supposed, has been crossed again and again, while lesser enterprises, -issuing from all sides, have carried the fringe of the known territory -further and further inland. Even yet the spirit of exploration keeps -awake, and refuses to rest so long as a patch of the interior remains to -be examined. While these sheets are passing through the press an -exploring party, supported again by Adelaide, are preparing for the -interior, in order to wrest from its grasp such secrets as it may yet -retain. - -It is pleasing to observe how a better acquaintance with Australia, both -in the way of discovery and settlement, is surely leading on to the -belief that it will yet be the home of a numerous population. For a long -period it was reckoned unfit to be the habitation of civilized man, -except along the seaboards. The want of water, and continuous deserts, -were supposed to have placed the interior beyond the pale of -settlement. But experience has already revealed a system of -compensations by which this hasty judgment has come to be reversed, and -the back country settled by a thriving population. There are deserts, -indeed, in which one might search in vain for a blade of grass, but they -contain many patches of nutritious shrubs, which not only keep alive, -but even fatten, stock. Water, too, is scarce, but, by another of these -admirable compensations, it is capable of being stored in any quantity, -and for any length of time, without becoming putrid--an advantage -unknown to the home countries. The rainfall, moreover, is very scant ---perhaps not more than seven inches per annum in the far interior--but -then the recent borings with the diamond drill have shown that an -abundant supply may be obtained from subterranean sources. The latest -announcement made to us, now standing on the threshold of the centennial -year, is the most encouraging of all. By the ticking of the telegraph we -learn that an experiment at Barcaldine, in Queensland, has brought to -the surface of the bore a daily discharge of something approaching to -100,000 gallons of water fit for all purposes. Experience is ever -revealing new relations of material adaptability. There is a sympathy -between a country and its inhabitants, which may have a deeper -foundation than the fancy of the poet. The land and the people are the -complements of one another. "God made the earth to be inhabited," and -there is now no fear of Australia being an exception to the rule. - - - - -INDEX. - - -Aborigines, 67, 79, 88, 103, 106, 123, 125, 127, 128, 136, 140, 147, -149, 150, 162, 179, 186, 191 - -Abundance, Mt., 160, 161 - -Adelaide, 97 River, 23, 207 - -Albany, Port, 145, 149 - -Albert R., 23, 182, 193 - -Alexandrina, L., 82 - -Alice R., 143 - -Amadeus, L., 230 - -Arnheim B., 18 - -Austin, Mr. R., 240 - -Australia, why so called, 13 Western, 97 Crossing, 209, 210 Centre of, -197, 201 - -_Australis, Calamus_, 146 - - -Balonne R., 138 - -Barcoo R., 95, 143 - -Bass's Discoveries, 6-19 Strait, 11, 12 - -Bathurst, Plains of, 30, 67-70 Laid out, 36 - -Batman, John, 126 - -Baudin, 15 - -Belyando R., 142 - -Bight, Great Australian, 99-101, 221 - -Blacks--_see_ Aborigines - -Blaxland, Gregory, 28 - -Blue Mts., 25-33 Unsuccessful attempt to cross, 25-27 Crossed, 28-33 - -Bogan R., 71, 119-121 - -Botany B., 1 - -Bottle Trees, 139 - -Bourke, Fort, 121 - -Bridge, St. George's, 138 - -Brisbane R., 57 - -Broken B., 5 - -Burdekin R., 166 - -Burke, R. O'Hara, 168 and Wills, 169-181 - -Byng, Mt., 134 - - -Camels, 169, 213, 215, 218 - -Campaspe R., 134 - -Carpentaria, 135, 193 Gulf of, 18, 173, 189 - -Castlereagh R., 42, 73 - -Condamine R., 154 - -Clark, George, _alias_ "George the Barber," 111 - -Coal, Discovery of, 239 - -Cogoon R., 139 - -Convicts, 135 - -Cook, Capt., 1-3 - -Cooper's Ck., 93 - -Creek, Chambers's, 199 Attack, 202 - -Cunningham, Allan, 53-65 Richard, 119-120 Gap, 63 - -Curtis B., 17 - - -Danger Point, 2 - -Darling Downs, 60-61 R., 71, 72, 80, 122, 137 - -Darwin, Port, 209 - -Dawson R., 154 - -Depot Glen, 87 - -Desert, Gibson's, 233-234 - -Disappointment, Mt., 51 - -Droughts, 73, 74, 87 - - -Eden, a new, 130 - -Encounter Bay, 15 - -_Endeavour_, ship, 1, 2 R., 2 - -Essington, Port, 221 - -Eucla, Port, 221 - -Euryalean Scrub, 39 - -Evans, Surveyor, 34-36 - -Eyre, E. J., 85, 96-119 Creek, 90 - - -Falls, Alice, 232 - -Fawkner, J. P., 126 - -Farmer's Ck., 32 - -Finke, Mt., 196, 197 - -Fish R., 35 - -Fitzmaurice R., 23, 164 - -Fitzroy Downs, 139, 159 - -Fleet, First, 4 - -Flinders' Discoveries, 6-19 R., 22, 23, 191, 193 - -Floods, Sudden, 137 - -Forrest, Hon. John, 219-228 - -Foxes, Flying, 156 - - -Garden, Sydney Botanic, 63-64 - -George's R., 6 - -Giles, Ernest, 228-276 - -Gipps, Sir George, 153 - -Gosse, Mr., 225 - -Glenelg R., 132 - -Grampians, 132 - -Gregory, A. C., 163-166 - -Grey, Sir George, 237, 238 - - -Hacking, Port, 7 - -Harris, Mt., 69 - -Hawkesbury R., 5 - -Hely, Hovenden, 161, 162 - -Henty, Edward, 125, 133 - -Hicks, Point, 1 - -Hastings R., 43 - -Hopeless, Mt., 177 - -Horses Poisoned, 240 - -Hovell, Capt., 47-52 - -Howitt, Alfred, 183-185 - -Hume, Hamilton, 46-52 - - -Illawarra, 7 - -Iramoo Downs, 52 - -Isaacs, R., 155 - - -Jackson, Port, 2 - -Jervis B., 8 - - -Kangaroo Island, 14 Grass, 129 Rats, 155 - -Karaula R., 116 - -Kennedy, E. B., 135, 139, 144, 151 - -Kimberley, 242 - -Kindur R., 112 - -King, Governor, 16 Admiral, 19-23 Explorer, 171 Found with the blacks, -184 - -Kites, Plague of, 155 - -Kyte, Ambrose, 167 - - -Lachlan R., 35, 38-40 Swamps, 39 - -Lakes, 131, 132, 185, 186 - -Landsborough, 182, 192, 193 - -Lang, Mt., 155 - -Lawson, William, 28 - -Leeuwin, Cape, 14 - -Leichhardt, 152-162, 220, 221 - -Liverpool Plains, 43 - -Loddon R., 129 - -Logan R., 61 - -Lynd R., 155 - - -Macedon, Mt., 134 - -Mackenzie R., 154 - -Macquarie R., 35, 41, 42 Port, 43 Swamps, 41, 42, 70 - -Manning R., 44 - -Maranoa R., 139 - -Massacre, L., 186 - -M'Kinlay, John, 182, 185-189 - -Melbourne, 16 - -Menindie, 169 - -Mirage, 196 - -Mitchell, Sir Thomas, 80, 110-143 - -Moreton B., 154 - -Mosquitoes, 207 - -Murchison R., 224 - -Murrumbidgee R., 48, 75 - -Murray R., 50, 77-84, 128, 134 - - -Namoi R., 43, 115 - -Nardoo, 178, 186 - -New South Wales, why so called, 3 Foundation of, 4 - -Nive R., 141 - -Nivelle R., 141 - -Nogoa R., 141 - -Norman R., 190, 191 Captain, 182, 191 - - -Oakover R., 215 - -Overlanding, 96 - -Oxley, John, 37-44, 69 His Journal, 38 His unfortunate prediction, 45 - - -Palms, Glen of, 229 - -Pandora's Pass, 56 - -Petrel, Sooty, 10 - -Pillar, Chambers's, 199 - -Phillip, Port, 16 - -Plant, Poisonous, 240 - -Portland B., 133 - -Promise, Plains of, 23 - - -Rawlinson Range, 233 - -Reef, Great Barrier, 17 - -Religion, Powerful support of, 238 - -Roe, J. S., 238, 239 - -Roper R., 206, 207 - -Rossiter B., 107 - -Rufus R., why so called, 82 - - -Saltbush, 136, 137 - -Sea, Inland, supposed existence of, 42, 201 - -Seaview, Mt., 43 - -Shoalhaven, 8 - -Snowy Mts., 49 - -Soil, Poor, accounted for, 81 - -Sound, King George's, 107 - -"Spring" Country, 198 - -Squatters, Pioneer, 136, 159 - -Stapylton, L., 127 - -Stephens, Port, 44 - -Stokes, Capt., 23 - -Stony Desert, 90, 93, 94, 188 - -Strzelecki's Ck., 93 - -Stuart, John M'Douall, 194-209 Central Mt., 201 - -Sturt, Capt., 66-95, 166 Ck., 164 Plains, 204 - -Sunday Services, 226 Dinner, 226 - -Sydney Harbour, 4 - - -Telegraph, Transcontinental, 209 - -Termination, L., 164 - -Territory, Northern, 209 - -Torrens, L., 98, 99, 195 - -Transportation, 3 - -Tumut R., 49 - -Twofold B., 9 - - -Van Diemen's Land (Tasmania) circumnavigated, 10-12 - -Victoria, 125-135 R., 23, 143, 163, 164, 202 - - -Walker, Frederick, 182, 190-192 - -Warrego R., 141 - -Warburton, Colonel, 210-218 - -Warning, Mt., 2 - -Water, How found, 102, 103 Searching for, 213 Subterranean, 243 Caught -during shower by tarpaulin, 213 - -Weld, Governor, 224 Springs, 224 - -Wellington Valley, 40 - -Wells, Native, 213 - -Wentworth, W. C., 28 - -Western Port, 9 - -Wickham, Capt., 23 - -William, Mt., 131 - -Wills, W., 168, 169 - -Wimmera R., 131 - - -Yass Plains, 47 - -York, Cape, 145 - - -George Robertson and Co., Printers, Melbourne and Sydney. - - - - - -End of Project Gutenberg's The Australian Explorers, by George Grimm - -*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE AUSTRALIAN EXPLORERS *** - -***** This file should be named 41270.txt or 41270.zip ***** -This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: - http://www.gutenberg.org/4/1/2/7/41270/ - -Produced by Paul Mitchell, Greg Bergquist and the Online -Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This -file was produced from images generously made available -by The Internet Archive/American Libraries.) - - -Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions -will be renamed. - -Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no -one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation -(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without -permission and without paying copyright royalties. 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