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+*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 41270 ***
+
+THE
+
+AUSTRALIAN EXPLORERS
+
+THEIR
+
+LABOURS, PERILS, AND ACHIEVEMENTS
+
+BEING A NARRATIVE OF DISCOVERY FROM THE LANDING OF CAPTAIN COOK TO THE
+CENTENNIAL YEAR
+
+BY
+
+GEORGE GRIMM, M.A.
+
+MINISTER OF ST. PAUL'S, BALMAIN WEST, SYDNEY; AND TUTOR IN APOLOGETICS
+AND SYSTEMATIC THEOLOGY TO THE PRESBYTERIAN CHURCH OF NEW SOUTH WALES
+
+GEORGE ROBERTSON & COMPANY MELBOURNE AND SYDNEY 1888
+
+
+
+
+TO THE MEMORY
+
+OF THE LATE
+
+JOHN DUNMORE LANG, D.D.
+
+IN GRATEFUL REMEMBRANCE
+
+OF MUCH PLEASANT INTERCOURSE
+
+THIS VOLUME IS AFFECTIONATELY INSCRIBED
+
+
+
+
+PREFACE.
+
+
+The story of the exploration of Australia is one which we cannot
+willingly let die. There are many reasons for keeping alive the
+remembrance of such heroic deeds. It is due to the memory of those men
+who took their lives in their hands, and, in many cases, laid their
+bones in the desert; it is an act of gratitude on our part, who have
+entered on their labours; and it is a kind of information indispensable
+to every Australian who desires to know the history of his country. And
+yet there is great danger of their being practically forgotten. The time
+when the harvest of discovery was reaped has faded into the past, and a
+generation is growing up not well informed on these most interesting
+adventures and achievements. Nor are the sources of information easily
+obtainable by those who purposely put themselves on the search. The
+journals of the explorers, never too plentiful, have now become scarce.
+They are only occasionally met with in private hands, where they are,
+for good reasons, held as a treasure. A considerable number of these
+works are to be found in the Sydney School of Arts, but they have been
+withdrawn from circulation, and are now kept for special reference only,
+in a glass case, under lock and key. The Government Library contains
+the best collection extant, but even there it has been deemed necessary
+to adopt restrictive regulations, with the view of giving the books a
+longer lease of existence. This scarcity of the sources of information,
+and these restrictions which fence in the few that remain, may be
+accepted as a sufficient plea for the effort here made to popularize the
+knowledge they contain. But I would warn the reader not to expect from
+this small volume what it does not profess to give. In no sense does it
+pretend to be elaborate or exhaustive. I have had to study brevity for
+another reason than its being the soul of wit. It would have been a
+pleasant task to write long descriptions of Australian scenery, and to
+follow the explorers even into the by-paths of their journeys; but the
+result would have been just what I have had to avoid--a bulky volume.
+Yet, such as it is, I hope the book will be found acceptable to the man
+of business, who can neither afford to be ignorant of this subject nor
+find time to enter into its minutiæ; to the youth of our country, who
+cannot obtain access to the original sources; and to the general reader,
+who desires to be told in simple, artless language the main outlines of
+this fascinating story.
+
+Having written on a subject in no way connected with my profession, I
+may be allowed to say, in a word, how my thoughts came to be diverted
+into this channel. Probably they would never have been so directed to
+any great extent had it not happened that the path of duty led me into
+the tracks of several of the most eminent explorers. In earlier days it
+was my lot to travel, in the service of the Gospel, most extensively in
+the interior of Queensland, principally on the lines of the Condamine,
+the Dawson, the Balonne, the Maranoa, and the Warrego rivers. In these
+situations it was natural to wish for information as to the way and
+manner in which those pastoral regions had been opened up for
+settlement. Not much was to be gleaned from the occupants themselves;
+but it fortunately happened that Sir Thomas Mitchell's journal fell into
+my hands when amidst the scenes of one of his most splendid discoveries,
+the Fitzroy Downs, and almost under the shadow of his well-named Mount
+Abundance. The taste then obtained was sufficient to whet the appetite
+for more, and the prosecution of this favourite study has issued in what
+I may be permitted to call a tolerable acquaintance with the exploration
+of Australia. About seven or eight years ago I wrote a series of papers
+on this subject for the _Sydney Mail_, bringing the history down to the
+expedition of Burke and Wills. The proprietors of that journal have
+kindly permitted me to make use of my former articles in the preparation
+of this work; but of this permission, for which I would here record my
+thanks, I have availed myself only to a moderate extent. The whole has
+been rewritten, some inadvertencies have been corrected, and the history
+in its main outlines brought down to the present time. Although my
+principal concern has been with the land explorers, I have, in the
+introduction, given a sketch of the discoveries made on our coasts by
+the navigators. So much was necessary to the completeness of my plan,
+and also because the achievements of both to some extent dovetail into
+one another. In the arrangement of the succeeding chapters I have
+followed the chronological order, except in a very few cases where a
+more important principle of classification will be obvious to the
+reader.
+
+As regards authorities, I have spared no pains to get at the original
+sources of information, and have succeeded in all but a few unimportant
+exceptions. In these cases I have derived some help from interviews with
+surviving relatives of the explorers and several very old colonists. I
+have also been indebted for further light to works of acknowledged merit
+which have been for some time before the public--notably, to the Rev. J.
+E. Tenison Woods's "Exploration of Australia," and to Mr. Howitt's
+"Discoveries in Australia, Tasmania, and New Zealand." My best
+acknowledgments are also due to the Honourable P. G. King, Esq., M.L.C.,
+for the excellent notes he has written on the discoveries made by his
+distinguished father, Admiral King.
+
+That this small volume may be found to afford pleasant and profitable
+reading is the earnest wish of
+
+THE AUTHOR.
+
+BALMAIN WEST, SYDNEY, _18th May, 1888_.
+
+
+
+
+CONTENTS.
+
+
+PAGE
+
+INTRODUCTION--THE AUSTRALIAN NAVIGATORS 1
+
+CHAPTER I.
+
+THE PIONEERS OF THE BLUE MOUNTAINS 25
+
+CHAPTER II.
+
+EVANS'S DISCOVERY OF THE LACHLAN AND MACQUARIE 34
+
+CHAPTER III.
+
+OXLEY'S EXPEDITION TO THE LACHLAN AND MACQUARIE 37
+
+CHAPTER IV.
+
+HUME AND HOVELL'S EXPEDITION FROM LAKE GEORGE TO PORT PHILLIP 45
+
+CHAPTER V.
+
+ALLAN CUNNINGHAM'S EXPLORATIONS 53
+
+CHAPTER VI.
+
+CAPTAIN STURT'S THREE EXPEDITIONS 66
+
+CHAPTER VII.
+
+EYRE'S ADVENTUROUS JOURNEY ALONG THE GREAT AUSTRALIAN BIGHT 96
+
+CHAPTER VIII.
+
+SIR THOMAS MITCHELL'S FOUR EXPEDITIONS 110
+
+CHAPTER IX.
+
+KENNEDY'S DISASTROUS EXPEDITION TO CAPE YORK 144
+
+CHAPTER X.
+
+LEICHHARDT'S EXPEDITIONS TO PORT ESSINGTON AND INTO THE INTERIOR 152
+
+CHAPTER XI.
+
+MR. A. C. GREGORY'S EXPEDITION TO THE NORTH-WEST INTERIOR 163
+
+CHAPTER XII.
+
+BURKE AND WILLS'S EXPEDITION ACROSS THE AUSTRALIAN CONTINENT 167
+
+CHAPTER XIII.
+
+SEARCH EXPEDITIONS IN QUEST OF BURKE AND WILLS 182
+
+CHAPTER XIV.
+
+JOHN M'DOUALL STUART'S EXPEDITIONS IN THE SOUTH, TO THE CENTRE, AND
+ACROSS THE CONTINENT 194
+
+CHAPTER XV.
+
+COLONEL WARBURTON'S JOURNEY ACROSS THE WESTERN INTERIOR 210
+
+CHAPTER XVI.
+
+THE HON. JOHN FORREST'S EXPLORATIONS IN WESTERN AUSTRALIA 219
+
+CHAPTER XVII.
+
+MR. ERNEST GILES'S EXPLORATIONS IN CENTRAL AND WESTERN AUSTRALIA 228
+
+CHAPTER XVIII.
+
+OTHER EXPLORERS IN WESTERN AUSTRALIA--CONCLUSION 237
+
+
+
+
+THE AUSTRALIAN EXPLORERS.
+
+
+
+
+INTRODUCTION: PIONEER NAVIGATORS.
+
+
+The eastern coast of New Holland, as Australia was then called, was
+discovered by Captain Cook, while engaged in the first of his voyages
+round the world. Leaving Cape Farewell, in New Zealand, on the 13th of
+March, 1770, and steering a north-westerly course, on the 18th of April
+he found the new continent rise into view in one of its south-eastern
+headlands, which was then named Point Hicks, but is now known as Cape
+Conran, and reckoned within the territory of Victoria. Henceforward the
+_Endeavour_ was navigated along the coast to its most northern limit. In
+these southern waters no practicable landing-place was observed till
+Botany Bay was reached. Here the good ship came to anchor, and nearly a
+week was passed amidst the strangest sights and scenes. This brief
+interlude being over, the northern voyage was resumed in quest of
+further discoveries. Scarcely had the Botany Heads faded from the view
+when another large inlet was sighted from the deck of the vessel, but,
+unhappily, not visited. The point of observation being miserably
+inadequate, the great navigator was all unconscious of his being abreast
+of the finest harbour of the world, and having given it the name of Port
+Jackson, in honour of a distinguished English friend, held on his course
+without pause or delay. For a while all went well with the navigator,
+but in an hour when no danger was expected a cry of "breakers ahead"
+brought to everyone on board a sense of extreme peril. By dint of the
+captain's superior seamanship, and his perfect command over the crew,
+the ship was turned from the rocks in a critical moment, and the
+expedition rescued from a disastrous termination. The locality of this
+threatened calamity was marked by a projection of the land, overhung by
+a conspicuous hill, to which Cook gave the respective names of Point
+Danger and Mount Warning, positions which the reader will recognize as
+now forming the coastal boundary between New South Wales and Queensland.
+But the _Endeavour_ was not to finish her voyage without making a still
+closer acquaintance with misfortune. Having unconsciously approached a
+hidden danger in the far north, she landed bodily on a reef, and
+sustained most serious damage. It was only after the sacrifice of much
+valuable cargo that she could be floated, and then it taxed all the
+skill of the captain and the utmost energies of his crew to bring her to
+the nearest anchorage. The port of safety, reached with so much
+difficulty, proved to be the mouth of a small river, which has since
+borne the name of the Endeavour. The repair of the crazy vessel
+occupied a period of six weeks, during which "Jack ashore" enjoyed
+rather exciting holidays, making his first acquaintance with the
+kangaroo and other grotesque oddities of the Australian fauna. Having
+again put to sea, only one stage more remained, and this over, the great
+navigator reached Cape York, the extreme northern limit of this new
+territory. Cook succeeded in his object to a degree that must have
+surpassed his most sanguine anticipations, and now took care that his
+labours should not be in vain, but redound to the benefit of his
+country. All that was wanting was a declaration of ownership, and this
+he accordingly made on the spot: "As I am now about to quit the eastern
+coast of New Holland, which I have coasted from 38° latitude to this
+place, and which I am confident no European has ever seen before, I once
+more hoist the English colours (although I have already taken possession
+of the whole eastern coast by the name of New South Wales, from its
+great similarity to that part of the principality of Wales), in the
+right of my sovereign, George III., King of Great Britain."
+
+This welcome gift fell into the hands of the nation in a time of need.
+Transportation to Virginia having come to an end through the revolt of
+the American colonies, the English gaols were being filled to overflow
+with criminals, and a new outlet was imperatively required. Somewhere in
+the world a place had to be found for a penal settlement. The
+publication of Cook's discoveries came in the nick of time, and
+delivered the Government from embarrassment. It was resolved accordingly
+to establish a crown colony at Botany Bay, which had been fully and only
+too favourably described by the circumnavigator. On the 18th of March,
+1787, a fleet consisting of eleven ships, carrying 757 convicts and 200
+soldiers, was despatched under the command of Captain Phillip, a retired
+military officer. The voyage being somewhat circuitous, its destination
+was not reached till the 18th of January following. Less than a week
+sufficed to show that Cook's picture of Botany had more of colour than
+correctness. The shores were found to be shallow, the roadstead exposed,
+and the adjacent land ill suited to the purpose in view. Without loss of
+time, the Governor, with his assistants, proceeded to examine the
+capabilities of Port Jackson, which had been cursorily seen at a
+distance by Cook and dismissed in a single sentence of his otherwise
+copious narrative. The exploration issued in unmeasured satisfaction and
+surprise. The party returned to the encampment with the tidings of a
+harbour with a hundred coves, on the ample bosom of which all the navies
+of Europe might ride at anchor. Orders to decamp were issued forthwith,
+and the removal of the nascent colony was the work of but a day or two.
+The spot selected for the permanent home is contiguous to the modern
+Circular Quay, and was recommended for acceptance by a clear and limpid
+stream that glided on its course underneath the indigenous copse. The
+infant colony had its baptism of hardship, but was able to survive the
+struggle for existence. The inauguration took place on the 7th of
+February, 1788, when the settlement was formally proclaimed a crown
+colony, in circumstances of no small state and ceremony.
+
+The passion for discovery soon took possession of the new arrivals, and
+the adventurous Governor placed himself in the front of this enterprise.
+To us who live in times when Australia has ceased to be an unknown land,
+their efforts in this direction may appear to have been small and the
+results insignificant, but it should not be forgotten that the horizon
+was at that time the limit of discovery, even in meagre outline, whilst
+an accurate survey had scarcely proceeded a couple of miles beyond the
+settlement. On the 2nd of May the Governor and party sailed off in the
+long-boat for the purpose of exploring Broken Bay, which had been seen
+and named by Captain Cook, but not entered. It proved to be the entrance
+to a large river, expanding to an immense width, and abounding in
+exquisite natural scenery. Having crossed the bar, three distinct
+divisions of Broken Bay were explored, and to the last of which they
+gave the name of Pitt Water, in honour of the far-famed English premier.
+Next year this success was followed up with the exploration of the river
+(the Hawkesbury) which here enters the sea. Large tracts of rich
+alluvial land were found on both sides. In a short time hence these
+fertile flats became the homes of an industrious agricultural
+population, who frequently saved Sydney from the horrors of famine. This
+voyage of discovery was continued as far as Richmond Hill (the
+Kurrajong), from which position the chasm in the mountains was
+distinctly seen, and the sentries which guard its entrance named the
+Carmarthen and Lansdown Hills.
+
+It was the exploration of the coast-line, however, that principally
+engaged the attention of the infant colony, and for this work two men of
+rare ability stepped to the front. In 1795, just seven years after the
+foundation of the colony, Captain Hunter, having been appointed Governor
+in succession to Captain Phillip, arrived in Port Jackson with the
+_Reliance_ and the _Supply_, bringing George Bass as surgeon and Matthew
+Flinders in the capacity of midshipman. These adventurous and truly
+kindred spirits lost no time in girding themselves up for the work of
+discovery. They had been barely a month in the country when the
+colonists saw them start on their first expedition. Taking only a boy
+for general service, and embarking in a boat not more than eight feet
+long--very suitably named the _Tom Thumb_--they sailed round to Botany
+Bay, thence up George's River, which was now explored for 20 miles
+beyond what was previously known. The results were, the opening up of
+much available land and the commencement of a new settlement under the
+name of Bankstown, which is still retained. But the success attending
+this adventure was eclipsed by next year's discoveries, which were
+achieved under similar difficulties. The tiny _Tom Thumb_, with its
+crew of three all told, again left Port Jackson for the purpose of
+examining a large river which was supposed to enter the ocean to the
+south of Botany Bay. Having stood out to sea in order to catch the
+current, the voyagers unwittingly passed the object of their search and
+were carried far southward. Bad weather now supervened; the little craft
+was tossed like a cork on the billows, and finally beached in a heavy
+surf with the loss of many valuables on board. Being now in want of
+water, the party were compelled to leave the rock-bound coast and steer
+still further south, in the hope of finding a more favourable locality.
+Eventually they cast anchor about two miles beyond the present town of
+Wollongong, in an inlet which, in commemoration of this incident, still
+bears the name of the Tom Thumb Lagoon. The blacks, it was ascertained,
+called the district Allourie, which has, doubtless, been transformed
+into the more euphonious Illawarra. On the homeward voyage Bass and
+Flinders made a seasonable discovery of a snug little shelter, which
+they called Providential Cove, but which is now generally known by the
+native name, Wattamolla. About four miles further north they were
+fortunate at last in hitting upon the real object of their search. It
+proved to be a large sheet of water stretching several miles inland, and
+presented the appearance of a port rather than a river. The natives
+spoke of it as "Deeban," but it is now called Port Hacking, it is
+believed in acknowledgment of the services of a pilot of that name.
+Having accomplished far more than the object they had in view, the
+daring seamen returned to Sydney Cove, after passing through a
+succession of perils and privations which give to their narrative the
+character, not of sober history, but of wild romance.
+
+The next important expedition was carried out under the sole conduct of
+Bass. On his own petition the Governor furnished him with a whale-boat,
+carrying a crew of six seamen and provided with supplies for six weeks
+only. With so slender an equipment this born adventurer sailed from Port
+Jackson on a voyage of 600 miles, along a little-known and possibly
+perilous coast. One lovely summer evening, which happened to be the 3rd
+of December, 1797, the little whaler with its stout-hearted crew bore
+round the South Head, and bravely turned its prow towards its unknown
+destination. Scarcely had the familiar landmarks dropped out of sight
+when the elements engaged in tempestuous fury, and the storm drove the
+adventurers to seek shelter first at Port Hacking, next at Wattamolla,
+and again near Cook's Red Point, on the Illawarra coast. The headland,
+under the lee of which the vessel took refuge, stands a little to the
+south of Lake Illawarra, and still bears the name of Bass' Point. Not
+long after the voyage was resumed he discovered the embouchure of a
+river in an inferior harbour, which he called Shoalhaven, believing it
+deserved no better name. Jervis Bay was next entered, but this was no
+discovery, for it had been previously explored by Lieutenant Bowen,
+whose name is still preserved in an island lying near the entrance.
+Bass, however, had the good luck to discover Twofold Bay--a scene of
+never-failing beauty, and a place of importance in our early history.
+Passing rapidly southward he rounded Cape Howe, and first noticed the
+Long Beach, but was unable to identify Point Hicks. He was now 300 miles
+from Sydney, and whatever remained of the voyage was along an absolutely
+unknown coast. Some important discoveries were made at various points,
+but the most valuable portion of his labours was the exploration of
+Western Port. Here he remained thirteen days, during which this
+commodious harbour was carefully examined and fully described. A leading
+object of the voyage had been to settle the question of the suspected
+insularity of Van Diemen's Land. Bass had really solved the problem
+without knowing it, for he had passed through the strait which now bears
+his name. That it was detached from the continent his own bearings
+rendered almost a certainty. To do more was impossible in the
+circumstances. He had already been seven weeks from Sydney, which had
+been left with only six weeks' provisions. These, though eked out by an
+occasional supply of fish and fowl, were nearly exhausted, and the
+homeward voyage was made on the shortest course. During an absence of
+eleven weeks he had examined the coast for 600 miles south of Port
+Jackson, the latter half of which had been utterly unknown up to the
+time of this expedition.
+
+There still remains for review another memorable voyage of discovery,
+undertaken by Bass and Flinders conjointly in the year 1798. The object
+of this expedition was to demonstrate the existence of the probable
+strait and the consequent insularity of Van Diemen's land; and the way
+it was proposed to accomplish this double object was to sail through the
+channel and circumnavigate the island. Bent on this adventure Bass and
+Flinders left Sydney Cove on the 7th October, in the _Norfolk_, a good
+sea-going sloop of 25 tons burthen. The run over the known waters was
+made purposely in haste, because the time was limited. Their cruise in
+the channel disclosed a large number of islands, the haunts of myriads
+of sea-fowl, particularly the sooty petrel, which, though far from
+savoury, served as an article of food. This strange bird was found, like
+the rabbit, to burrow in the ground, where it was easily captured in the
+evening. Flinders says it was simply necessary to thrust in the whole
+length of the arm into the hole, whence one would be almost certain to
+bring out a petrel--or a snake. The alternative was not a pleasant one,
+but the commander had to husband up the provisions and the sailors were
+not unwilling to run the risk. The circumnavigation of Van Diemen's Land
+(Tasmania) commenced at the northern point, known as Cape Portland.
+Nothing specially remarkable occurred till a point was reached which
+they named Low Head, immediately after which the _Norfolk_ entered an
+arm of the sea more than a mile in width. This appeared to be a
+discovery of sufficient importance to devote sixteen days to its
+exploration. It proved to be the embouchure of what is now known as the
+River Tamar, on which Launceston, the second town of the island, is
+built. The discoverers sailed up the estuary, following its course for
+many miles inland. It was found to be alive with aquatic fowls,
+particularly black swans, sometimes numbering 500 in a flock. This
+unexpected diversion proved rich sport, and afforded a pleasant
+interlude to the monotony of life at sea. But the expedition was not for
+play, but work, and the ship was again upon her course. After a short
+sail to the westward they found themselves rounding the north-west cape,
+and with glad hearts could perceive the shore trending away for many a
+league to the south. The problem was already virtually solved.
+"Mr. Bass and myself," says Flinders, "hailed it with joy and mutual
+congratulation, as announcing the completion of our long-wished-for
+discovery of a passage into the southern Indian Ocean." This fortunate
+issue of their labours marked an epoch both in the history of discovery
+and the progress of international commerce. The circuitous route round
+the south of Van Diemen's Land could henceforth be avoided, and in our
+day the intervening strait has become the ordinary highway for the
+Australian trade. It being still deemed advisable to carry out the
+instructions to the letter, the circumnavigation of the island was
+prosecuted with varying interest. In the southern parts some valuable
+discoveries were made, and errors of previous observers corrected. In
+consequence of unfavourable weather the run along the eastern coast was
+made for the most part out of sight of land, but on the 6th of January
+it was found they had completely rounded Van Diemen's Land, and so
+brought their work to an end. The time allotted for the expedition
+having also expired, the heroic navigators returned to Sydney, bringing
+the welcome intelligence that doubt was no longer possible concerning
+the insularity of Tasmania, and the practicability of the intervening
+channel as a highway of commerce. The merit of this latter discovery is
+almost equally due to both navigators, but with a generosity which
+reflects credit, and is as noble as it is rare, Flinders prevailed on
+Governor Hunter to call it Bass' Strait.
+
+What had now been done for the island of Van Diemen's Land by Bass and
+Flinders conjointly was next to be achieved for the continent of
+Australia by Flinders single-handed. Before his time much had been done
+in enterprises of discovery on numerous and distant parts of the coast
+by various commanders and by different nations; but as these efforts had
+been conducted under no comprehensive plan, there was no continuous line
+of exploration, and accordingly the discoveries hitherto made were known
+only as _disjecta membra_, lying at wide intervals in the Southern
+Ocean; but whether they were the extremities of one and the same
+continent, or a cluster of sporadic islands, there was not yet
+sufficient evidence to show. To settle this question was the true
+mission of Matthew Flinders, and the method he adopted was to
+circumnavigate the whole territory, keeping so near the land as to have
+his eye on the raging surf, except when the darkness of the night and
+the wildness of the weather rendered this purpose impracticable. On the
+very day of his death the printing-press issued a record of his labours
+in a couple of goodly quartos entitled "A Voyage to Terra Australis."
+This name was proposed for the new country as a fair and likely means of
+overcoming an acknowledged difficulty. The Dutch had long ago discovered
+the western coast and called the country New Holland, whereas the
+English, having performed a similar service for the eastern side, gave
+the name of New South Wales to this and the parts adjacent. Herein lay
+the difficulty; to call the whole continent New Holland seemed unfair to
+the English, whilst it appeared equally unjust to the Dutch to give the
+entire country the name of New South Wales. Flinders thought Terra
+Australis would be a reasonable compromise, but added, in an
+all-important footnote--"Had I permitted myself any innovation upon the
+original term, it would have been to convert it into AUSTRALIA, as being
+more agreeable to the ear and an assimilation to the other great
+portions of the earth." The suggestion was a most fortunate one, in
+spite of the innovation, and the remark shows that, among other and
+greater obligations, we are indebted to this navigator for the name of
+our country.
+
+On the 18th of July, 1801, Flinders sailed from Spithead in the
+_Investigator_ for the circumnavigation of Australia. The continent was
+first sighted on the 6th of December at the old landmark of the Leeuwin,
+which had hitherto been believed to be an island, but was now found to
+be connected with the mainland, and henceforth known as _Cape_ Leeuwin.
+Having visited King George's Sound, the run was next made along the
+Great Australian Bight to Fowler's Bay and Nuyt's Archipelago. Other
+navigators had visited this part and examined it with more or less
+attention. All the knowledge gained in the next stage had the merit of
+original discoveries. Foremost among these were Spencer and St. Vincent
+Gulfs, with Yorke Peninsula intervening, and a large island lying nearly
+opposite. On the latter they found no human inhabitants, but marsupials
+and seals were seen in prodigious numbers, and hence the explorers gave
+it the name of Kangaroo Island. Having never met with any of Adam's
+children till now, the denizens of the island showed no timidity in the
+presence of the strangers, nor expected any harm; and this indifference
+was observed to continue much longer with the kangaroos than with the
+seals. Flinders was of opinion that the kangaroos mistook their visitors
+for a variety of seals, but the seals soon became too knowing to
+confound them with kangaroos. A little sharp experience led both classes
+of animals to regard the intruders as deadly enemies. From that hour
+confidence departed and fear took its place. Shortly after the
+navigator left this island a very memorable incident occurred. A sailor
+from the mast-head reported a white rock in sight. On a nearer view it
+proved to be the sails of a ship--of all things surely the last to be
+expected in this unknown quarter of the world. Both vessels met in these
+strange waters, and then the apparition turned out to be the French ship
+the _Geographe_, also on a voyage of discovery, under the command of
+Captain Baudin. The jealous Frenchman ill concealed his vexation on
+meeting with a rival who had reaped the harvest of discovery over so
+many leagues of a coast-line which he believed himself to be the first
+to visit. Nor was jealousy his only or his worst fault. This
+unscrupulous navigator had the audacity to proceed as an explorer in
+unknown waters, and lay claim to discoveries which the Englishman had
+just made. Flinders, on the contrary, acted like the model of integrity
+which he was. He maintained the right of prior discovery in respect to
+all the places he had been the first to visit, leaving to Baudin an
+undisputed claim on such as he had already examined. This is the reason
+why the names of localities to the westward of this point are
+predominantly English, while those lying to the east are French. To the
+place of meeting, as being a sort of double discovery, Flinders gave the
+name of Encounter Bay. A minute examination of the remaining portions of
+this coast having been rendered unnecessary, in consequence of Baudin's
+cruise, Flinders now pushed on to Bass' Strait and entered an inlet
+which he supposed to be Western Port. This conjecture turned out to be
+a mistake, for the place, so far as Flinders was concerned, proved to be
+a new discovery. Subsequently, however, he ascertained that the inlet
+had been visited about ten weeks earlier by Lieutenant Murray, who had
+given it the name of Port Phillip. Perceiving the importance of the
+place, Flinders wisely devoted one week to the examination of the bay
+and the exploration of the immediate neighbourhood. Having seen so many
+capabilities of land and water, he put on record his opinion that "a
+settlement would probably be made at Port Phillip some time after." This
+hesitating prophecy was uttered as late as the year 1802, and the
+locality in question is the site on which the great city of Melbourne
+now stands, with its population of 300,000 souls! Having again stood out
+to sea, the _Investigator_ was soon abreast of Western Port, the utmost
+limit of Bass's discoveries, and now the vessel was considered to be in
+known waters. A direct run was accordingly made for Port Jackson, and
+Sydney was reached on the 1st of May, 1802.
+
+Philip Gidley King was at that time governor of New South Wales, and
+Flinders had the good fortune to find in him both the courtesy of a
+gentleman and the kindness of a friend. Permission having been obtained
+from the Admiralty, the Governor placed the _Lady Nelson_ at the service
+of the indefatigable navigator, and in every possible way encouraged his
+enterprise. Being thus supplied with all requisites which the young
+settlement could furnish, the _Investigator_, accompanied by the _Lady
+Nelson_ as tender, resumed the voyage of circumnavigation under
+promising auspices. Since the time of Cook the north-eastern coast had
+been visited in various parts by different navigators, but much yet
+remained to be done before a correct map could be drawn up, and Flinders
+had it among his instructions to supply the deficiencies of his
+predecessors wherever that might be possible. Having taken the trouble
+to find out what portions of the coast Cook had passed in the night, he
+made it his business to keep a sharp look-out on such localities, and in
+this way became the discoverer of Curtis Bay and other inlets of
+considerable importance. He was able also to correct many of Cook's
+observations, and being provided with better instruments, supplied, in
+not a few cases, the shortcomings of several other predecessors. But his
+most valuable services in this quarter were his observations on the
+Great Barrier Reef, which for more than a thousand miles runs nearly
+parallel with the northern coast, and had hitherto been viewed as the
+terror of navigators. To pierce this obstruction and get out into the
+open sea was an undertaking of so much intricacy that seamen were
+accustomed to call it "threading the needle." Even Cook, prince of
+navigators as he was, failed in the attempt. Flinders persevered till he
+discovered a safe gap in the mighty rampart, and showed succeeding
+navigators an easy escape from a grave difficulty. An outside course was
+then followed to the extreme north. Having now passed through the
+Endeavour Strait, Flinders came to anchor in the Gulf of Carpentaria,
+where he found a new scene for his energies and a rich field of
+discovery awaiting him.
+
+The Gulf of Carpentaria had been early visited by the Dutch navigators,
+but its exploration--if this word could be applied at all--had been
+conducted in a desultory and piecemeal fashion. Its turn had come at
+last, and the same painstaking service was to be rendered here which had
+made the south and eastern coasts so correctly known. Flinders found the
+gulf defined on the chart by a vague and hesitating coast-line, which
+turned out, in most cases, to be more imaginary than according to
+nature, and he left it so accurately described that his successors have
+been able to add little to his careful investigations. In this patient
+research four months were consumed, during which period he examined the
+whole coast from end to end, including Arnheim Bay. The three seaboards
+of Australia, south, east, and north, had now been explored in the
+_Investigator_. It need not, therefore, occasion surprise to hear of her
+showing signs of decay. This matter had to be attended to before
+commencing the survey of the western coast, which was meant to be as
+thorough as that of the other three had been. After making a call at
+Timor with despatches, a rapid run was made for Port Jackson by the
+western coast, but out of sight of land. Cape Leeuwin, the point from
+which the circumnavigation had started, was reached on the 13th of May,
+1803, and thus the heroic undertaking was virtually accomplished.
+Shipwreck, tragic sufferings, and diabolical treachery cut off the
+possibility of any further exploration of the western coast by Matthew
+Flinders.
+
+The work which was thus left imperfect through a long series of
+misfortunes was afterwards resumed, and very satisfactorily completed,
+by another distinguished navigator, Captain, and subsequently Admiral
+King. He played a prominent part in this period of our history, and was
+much beloved for his sterling qualities both of head and heart. He made
+four voyages to the western coast, in every one of which excellent
+service was rendered to the cause of exploration. The following
+interesting abstract of his discoveries has been kindly furnished by his
+son, the Hon. P. G. King, M.L.C.:--
+
+"On the 4th of February, 1817, Lieutenant Philip Parker King, of the
+Royal Navy, the only son of Captain Philip Gidley King, the third
+Governor of New South Wales, was appointed by the Lords Commissioners of
+the Admiralty to carry out a survey of the then unexplored parts of the
+'coasts of New South Wales,' which comprised from Arnheim Bay, near the
+western entrance of the Gulf of Carpentaria, westward, and southward as
+far as the South-West Cape, including the opening or deep bay called Van
+Diemen's Bay, and the cluster of islands called the Rosemary Islands,
+and the inlets behind them. He was also to examine the coast between
+Cape Leeuwin and Cape Gasselin in M. De Freycinet's chart, and to
+complete the circumnavigation of the 'continent.'
+
+"The Governor of the colony was directed to place at his disposal any
+suitable vessel for his purpose, and accordingly the _Mermaid_, a cutter
+recently arrived from India, of 84 tons burden, was placed under his
+charge. Mr. F. Bedwell and Mr. John Septimus Roe (afterwards
+Surveyor-General of Western Australia) were his assistants, and Mr.
+Allan Cunningham, the botanical collector, specially appointed by Sir
+Joseph Banks, the botanist of Cook's expedition. The chief of the Broken
+Bay tribe of aborigines, 'Boon-ga-ree,' accompanied the little
+expedition, and much service was obtained from him in the various
+interviews with the natives.
+
+"Taking advantage of the westerly monsoon, the _Mermaid_ commenced her
+work, leaving Port Jackson on the 22nd of December, 1817, and,
+proceeding by Bass' Strait, arrived off the North-West Cape on the 10th
+of February. The favourable wind lasted till the beginning of March,
+when the south-east monsoon obliged the vessel to be worked to the
+eastward, for the purpose of running before it on her work. Having
+examined the coast and islands as far as Depuch Bay, the survey was
+resumed at the Goulburn Islands. Port Essington was examined; also, Van
+Diemen's Gulf and the Alligator River. A survey was made of the northern
+shore of Melville Island and Apsley Strait, till the 31st of May, when,
+provisions drawing to an end and water failing, the little vessel
+stretched across 'the Great Australian Strait' to Timor, and anchored
+off the Dutch settlement of Coepang on the 4th of June. On the 19th
+Montebelle and Barrow Islands were surveyed. Dysentery now attacked the
+ship's company, and further work had to be given up for this, Lieutenant
+King's first voyage, which, lasting 31-1/2 weeks, terminated in his
+return to Port Jackson on the 29th of July.
+
+"The winds not proving favourable for the passage through Torres Strait
+by the eastern coast till February in the following year, 1819, a voyage
+was made in the interval to Van Diemen's Land, and a survey was made of
+Macquarie Harbour, on the west coast, and a departure was taken for the
+second voyage on the 8th of May, during which a running survey was made,
+including an examination of the entrance of Port Macquarie, from the
+entrance of the inner passage through the Barrier Reefs at Breaksea Spit
+to the Endeavour River, thence northerly as far as Cape York. A stretch
+was now made across the Gulf of Carpentaria, and various parts of the
+coast to the westward were examined, and Cambridge Gulf and Admiralty
+Gulf were discovered and surveyed. A second visit had to be made to
+Coepang to obtain supplies, to enable the vessel to return to Port
+Jackson, where they arrived on the 12th December, after an absence of 35
+weeks. During this voyage a survey had been made of 540 miles of the
+northern coast, in addition to 500 on the previous expedition, as well
+as on this occasion making a running survey on the eastern coast of 900
+miles.
+
+"The third expedition comprised a further survey of the 900 miles just
+alluded to, and of the north-west coast in various parts. It may be
+noteworthy that the cutter was rigged on this occasion with rope made in
+New South Wales from New Zealand flax (_phormium tenax_). The third
+voyage was completed on the 9th of December, 1820, having occupied a
+period of 25-1/2 weeks.
+
+"For the fourth voyage it was found necessary to purchase a larger
+vessel, and, accordingly, Captain King, who had now received his
+promotion, found himself in command of a brig of 170 tons, which was
+thereafter called the _Bathurst_. The coast northwards to Torres Strait
+was further examined. The Mauritius was visited, and the west coast
+examined from Rottnest Island to the Buccaneers' Archipelago. The
+_Bathurst_ returned to Port Jackson on the 25th of April, 1822, after an
+absence of 344 days. Captain King was then ordered by the Admiralty to
+return to England, to prepare his charts and journals for publication.
+
+"It is impossible in such a short _résumé_ of his voyages to allude to
+the numerous and interesting interviews with the aborigines which he
+fell in with, further than to state that they were always conducted with
+a desire to establish friendly relations. Captain King's services were
+approved by the Admiralty, as he was entrusted with another command of
+two vessels, to survey the southern coasts of South America."
+
+From 1839 to 1845 the survey of the north-western coasts was continued
+with the _Beagle_, first under the command of Captain Wickham, and
+subsequently of Lieutenant Stokes. Soon after arriving from England, in
+the close of 1837, the coast was examined from Roebuck Bay to King's
+Sound, during which cruise the Fitzroy River was discovered and
+navigated for 90 miles from its entrance. In another voyage to the north
+the coast was explored in the vicinity of Port Essington, which was
+found to be a spacious harbour. Whilst examining Clarence Strait they
+made the important discovery of the Adelaide River, which was
+subsequently described by Mr. J. M'Douall Stuart as one of the best
+possible situations for a new settlement. Port Darwin was also
+discovered during this voyage. The _Beagle_ now proceeded to Cambridge
+Gulf, and discovered the Victoria and Fitzmaurice Rivers. The former was
+navigated for 50 miles, and rather hastily described as one of the
+finest rivers of Australia. The run was now made to Swan River, and
+thence, after a cruise among the islands, to Port Jackson. In June,
+1841, the _Beagle_ again left Sydney, to examine the southern coast of
+the Gulf of Carpentaria. Some important discoveries were made during
+this cruise. A fine river, which the explorers named the Flinders, was
+found, and navigated for 30 miles. On the 1st of August they discovered
+the Albert. Having ascended to a splendid sheet of water, which was
+named Hope Reach, they found themselves in the midst of enchanting
+scenery, which Captain Stokes thus describes:--"It was as glorious a
+prospect as could greet the eye. A magnificent sheet of water lay before
+us in one unbroken expanse, resembling a smooth translucent lake. Its
+gentle repose harmonized exquisitely with the slender, motionless boughs
+of the drooping gums, palms, and acacias that clustered on the banks,
+and dipped their feathery foliage in the limpid stream that, like a
+polished mirror, bore within its bosom the image of the graceful
+vegetation by which it was bordered. The report of our guns, as they
+dealt destruction among the quails that here abounded, rolled for the
+first time along the waters of the Albert, breaking in on the hush of
+stillness that appeared to reign over all like the presence of a spirit.
+The country which stretched away from either bank was an extensive
+plain, covered with long, coarse grass, above which was occasionally
+seen the head of a kangaroo, listening with its acute ear to our
+approach." It was not possible to ascend much higher than this reach, on
+account of the fallen timber which blocked the channel. The explorers
+then landed on immense plains, which, perhaps with too hasty judgment,
+they named the Plains of Promise. During this voyage they had examined
+the Gulf coast for 200 miles, making the discovery of twenty inlets and
+two large rivers.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER I.
+
+THE PIONEERS OF THE BLUE MOUNTAINS.
+
+
+Persons who have yet to make their acquaintance with the early history
+of New South Wales will learn with surprise that the colony had been
+founded for almost a quarter of a century before the Blue Mountain
+barrier was crossed. For so long a period it was scarcely possible to
+proceed more than forty miles from Sydney in any direction. Many a
+despairing look must those early settlers have cast on the frowning
+ramparts of the range, which, leaving only a narrow margin between
+itself and the sea, threatened to convert the cradle of the colony into
+a Procrustes' bed, to which its dimensions would have to conform in the
+future, as they had done in the past. This sense of confinement was the
+harder to bear that it was met with in a land of freedom; and many a
+time did the caged eagle dash itself with fruitless rage against the
+bars of its prison. A record of the unsuccessful attempts to get beyond
+the main range would form a heroic chapter of our history, and one, too,
+of which we might well feel proud, if there is any truth in the saying
+that in great undertakings it is glorious even to fail. Within four
+months after the arrival of the "first fleet" our annals present a
+picture of Governor Phillip and party struggling laboriously westward
+to the gorges of the mountains. In 1793 Lieutenant Dawes, with Captains
+Trench and Paterson, put forth equally persistent, but just as
+unsuccessful, efforts to scale the sandstone cliffs and reach the
+interior. During this year, also, H. Hacking, of the _Sirius_, with two
+companions, penetrated twenty miles into the mountains, passing over
+eighteen or nineteen ridges or gullies, and returned to the settlement
+after an absence of seven days. Three years later George Bass, the
+famous, though unprofessional, navigator and discoverer of the strait
+which still bears his name, did all that marvels of perseverance could
+accomplish in the hope of forcing a passage by way of the valley of the
+Grose. Taking a party on whose courage he could rely, Bass had his feet
+armed with iron hooks that he might scale the cliffs, after the manner
+of a spider, and made his men lower him with ropes into the outlying
+chasms. But it was all in vain. After fifteen days of heroic endeavour,
+he returned to Sydney, bringing the cold comfort of impossibility of
+transit. Bass assured his fellow-colonists that a passage over the Blue
+Mountains did not exist, even for a person on foot. It is possible that
+this strong statement was disproved almost immediately after. A
+tradition, not too well authenticated, speaks of a convict of the name
+of Wilson actually crossing the mountains in 1799. With another advance
+we get better footing, and read of a Lieutenant Barrellier making a
+similar attempt, but only to add another name to the list of failures.
+Two years later an effort of a more promising character was made by a
+botanist of the name of Cayley, who pushed his way into the heart of the
+mountains as far as the present Numantia, where he erected a cairn of
+stones to mark the furthest limit of exploration to the west. He left
+his rude monument without a name, but Governor Macquarie, in a sportive
+mood, called it "Cayley's Repulse," and by this brand it is still
+remembered by old colonists. The late Dr. Lang thus refers to it in his
+"History":--"The place was pointed out to me by a respectable settler of
+the Bathurst district on crossing the mountains for the first time in
+the year 1826. It is certainly a most remarkable locality, nothing being
+visible in any direction but immense masses of weather-beaten sandstone
+rocks, towering over each other in all the sublimity of desolation;
+quite a deep chasm, intersecting a lofty ridge covered with blasted
+trees, seems to present an insurmountable barrier to all further
+progress."
+
+At this outpost discovery appears to have stood still for a considerable
+period. If further attempts were entered on in the succeeding years very
+little has been said about them. The settlers must have made up their
+minds for the time being to submit to the inevitable and reconcile
+themselves to the situation with the best consolation they could find.
+But a pressing emergency assailed them before long which aroused the
+slumbering energy and led to another assault on the western ramparts. A
+continuous drought had succeeded equally disastrous floods in the
+Hawkesbury. The live stock of the settlement had by this time increased
+to 65,121 sheep, 21,343 horned cattle, and 1,891 horses, and all these
+had to be kept during a season of drought on an area of 80 miles by 40,
+the greater part of which in the best of times was hopelessly sterile.
+In this trying situation it became very manifest that one of two
+alternatives had to be faced--either the Blue Mountain barrier must be
+forced at all hazards and a way found into the interior, or, should this
+prove to be absolutely impossible, the surplus stock would have to be
+removed from the colony, if they were not to perish from starvation. The
+crisis was a serious one, but it happily called forth an effectual
+remedy. Three most capable men now came to the front to scale the
+mountain ramparts from which so many assailants had already been cast
+down; and now, at last, fortune was pleased to smile on the enterprise.
+The foremost of this memorable trio was Gregory Blaxland, a native of
+Kent, and born of an old English family in 1779. The second on the
+expedition was William Lawson, who was formerly lieutenant in the 102nd
+regiment, but had latterly retired to "Veteran Hall," his own country
+seat near Prospect. These two leaders, on whom the whole responsibility
+devolved, were joined by a third person, then wholly unknown, but who
+afterwards made for himself a name not to be forgotten in New South
+Wales. This was the embryo patriot and statesman, William Charles
+Wentworth. Blaxland was now in his 35th year, Lawson about the same
+age, but Wentworth was barely out of his 'teens, and professedly joined
+the expedition in a freak of youthful adventure.
+
+This memorable expedition, consisting of the three parties named,
+together with four attendants, a few pack horses, and several hunting
+dogs, left Blaxland's farm, at South Creek, on the 11th of May, 1813.
+The same afternoon the Nepean was crossed at Emu Ford, and the first
+encampment made the same evening at the foot of the mountains which had
+so long marked the western boundary of the settlement. The plan they
+resolved to follow was to adhere to the dividing ridge or watershed
+between the Warragumby and Grose Rivers, being careful to head all the
+tributaries departing to the right or to the left. This determination
+proved the secret of their ultimate success, and put the explorers in
+possession of the only key to the situation. Next morning the Emu Plains
+were left behind and the ascent of the mountains commenced. The high
+land of Grose Head is noted as being about seven miles to the
+north-east, and the place where the ascent began must have been
+considerably to the north of the present Zig-zag, and near the starting
+point of the original Bathurst-road. Having scaled the steepest part of
+the ridge, here about 800 feet high, the travellers were careful to head
+all the watercourses on both sides, in the hope of finding that the
+highest ground would also be continuous. The first day's progress
+amounted to a little over three miles, generally in a south-western
+direction, and the night's encampment was made at the head of a deep
+gully, where a small supply of water was found in the rock. Next morning
+a start was made about 9 o'clock. After proceeding about a mile they had
+the good luck to hit upon a large tract of forest land. Here was
+discovered the track of a European, who had marked the trees. This belt
+of open country ceased about two miles ahead, at which point further
+progress was obstructed by impenetrable brushwood. The remainder of the
+day having been consumed in fruitless efforts to round this obstacle,
+the night was spent in the former position. Next morning the axes were
+early at work hewing a track through the scrub, which could neither be
+avoided nor penetrated. This step-by-step progress had to be endured for
+five miles, until a more open patch was reached. Nor was this an
+exceptional case. A great part of the route over the mountains had in
+like manner to be laid open by the axe, thus making it necessary to
+travel three times over the same ground. First, the track had to be cut
+out; next, they had to return for the horses; and then the real advance
+was made for another stage. On the fifth day the brushwood proved so
+formidable that their progress did not exceed two miles. The following
+day was Sunday, and the explorers enjoyed the Sabbath rest as much as
+any toil-worn slave that ever breathed. On the 17th the horses were
+loaded with a supply of grass, as the country was becoming still more
+inhospitable, and an advance of seven miles was made through a track
+which the axe had laid open. But the windings of the watershed now
+appeared interminable, and the real progress, if measured in a straight
+line, was small indeed. Yet it was only by this tedious course that the
+mountains could be crossed, if crossed at all. The locality of the next
+encampment was destitute of water, and what could be obtained in the
+vicinity had to be carried up a precipitous cliff 600 feet in height.
+The horses had to shift as they best could for that evening. To
+aggravate matters, if such a thing were possible, a more serious
+obstacle now rose in front of the intrepid explorers. The ridge, which
+was their only hope, contracted to a width of 20 feet, and appeared to
+terminate in a huge rock rising 30 feet directly in front. But
+perseverance, which overcomes all things, brought them safely over this
+barrier too. Wednesday, the 19th, was a red-letter day, for they now
+reached the summit of the second elevation of the main range. The site
+also was suitable for a camp, and offered a good supply of grass and
+water. Next day a five-mile stage was accomplished, and the camp formed
+on the margin of a lagoon with a small stream of water running through
+it. Here the horses were left till the men had cut another day's march
+through the scrub. Soon after the ridge began to widen, but proved to be
+more rocky than ever. From the 22nd to the 28th the advance was made at
+much the same rate and without any incidents calling for particular
+remark. At last the pioneers had the inexpressible satisfaction of
+finding themselves on the western fall of the mountains. But the slopes
+facing the interior were exceedingly rugged, and a practicable descent
+was nearly despaired of. After much difficulty a barely feasible one was
+discovered, by means of which the party got clear of the mountains and
+found themselves in a lovely valley, afterwards called the Yale of
+Clwydd, and now well known as the site of the town of Hartley.
+
+Now, at last, the Blue Mountains had been crossed, but the pioneers
+continued their journey a short distance further, to make sure that
+every obstacle had been overcome. After leaving the range they advanced
+two miles to the westward on the same day, and encamped on the bank of a
+fine stream, probably what was afterwards known as the Rivulet, and now,
+by an absurd blunder in spelling, the River Lett. The last encampment
+was made on another brook, since called Farmer's Creek, but not from any
+connection with the farming interest. Here Sir Thomas Mitchell lost his
+favourite horse "Farmer," and considered the event of sufficient
+importance to have its remembrance preserved in the name of the creek.
+From this outpost of the expedition Blaxland went forth on the last
+afternoon of May, 1813, and ascended a neighbouring hill, from the top
+of which he beheld a magnificent expanse of pastoral country,
+sufficient, in his reckoning, to meet the wants of the colony for thirty
+years to come. This being the extreme point reached in this enterprise,
+Governor Macquarie paid the leader a well-merited compliment in
+associating the name of Blaxland with this memorable peak.
+
+The object of the journey being now happily attained, it was judged
+unnecessary to travel further. Twenty days had been spent in forcing a
+passage through the formidable mountain barrier, and the progress had
+been so slow that not much more than three miles per day had been
+averaged. The actual distance travelled along this tortuous ridge was
+reckoned at fifty miles, and eight more had been added on the other
+side. The return journey calls for no detailed remarks. The explorers
+were greatly fatigued, in very poor health, and their clothes had been
+torn to rags. Their outward track had been too laboriously hewn through
+the brushwood to be difficult to find on their return. The colonists at
+Sydney hailed with welcome the tidings of this signal success, and lost
+no time in turning the wished-for discovery to practical account.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER II.
+
+SURVEYOR EVANS'S DISCOVERY OF THE LACHLAN AND MACQUARIE RIVERS AND THE
+BATHURST PLAINS.
+
+
+Delighted with the success which had rewarded the Blue Mountain
+enterprise, Governor Macquarie took prompt action in following up this
+conquest over nature's barrier. A new and very capable man was now ready
+to enter the field. This was Mr. George W. Evans, who at that time
+filled the office of Deputy-Surveyor. His name occupies an honourable
+place in our early annals. It were to be wished we had fuller
+particulars of this first effort of his in the exploration of the colony
+than are now to hand. The following brief sketch embodies all that is
+really known on this subject:--He was absent only seven weeks on his
+first journey, and in 21 days had penetrated 98 miles beyond the most
+advanced camp of his predecessors. This new explorer crossed the Nepean
+at Emu Ford on the 20th of November, 1813, and, six days after, arrived
+at the termination of the journey of the Blue Mountain pioneers.
+Proceeding westward, he crossed a well-grassed but broken and rugged
+country, which was subsequently called the Clarence Hilly Range. By the
+30th he had reached the dividing ridge which forms the watershed between
+the eastern and western streams. Soon after this he discovered, in a
+well-grassed valley, the head waters of a stream that abounded in fish,
+and hence received the name of the Fish River. He continued to trace it,
+winding its course through a fine country, suitable for agricultural and
+grazing purposes, till the 7th of December, when it was joined by
+another stream, which he named the Campbell. To the river which was thus
+formed by these tributaries he gave the name of the Macquarie, after the
+Governor, but the natives called it the Wambool. Continuing on the lead
+of the Macquarie, he followed it through rich alluvial land--the
+Bathurst Plains--destitute of timber, but abounding in game. During the
+whole journey Evans met with only six natives, but saw the smoke of
+their encampments in many places. He returned to Sydney on the 8th of
+January, 1814. After a short interval he was again sent out to the same
+district, with a small party and one month's provisions. During this
+second journey Limestone Creek was discovered and explored; but its
+chief result was the discovery of another large river, which he called
+the Lachlan, after the Christian name of the Governor. The Lachlan and
+the Macquarie formed an enigma to the early geographers. Their sources
+were in the same neighbourhood, but both flowed towards the interior and
+kept diverging from one another during every mile of their known course.
+
+The proper sequel to Evans's discoveries was the formation of a road
+over the mountains to Bathurst Plains. This was done in the same year by
+gangs of convicts under the command of one Cox, in an incredibly short
+space of time, as tradition reports. This road, 100 miles in length, was
+formally opened in May, 1815, by the Governor and Mrs. Macquarie, who
+rode the whole distance on horseback. Bathurst was then laid out, and
+has ever since continued to be one of the most flourishing places in the
+colony, as might well be expected from a town which commands 50,000
+acres of first-class land within a radius of ten miles.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER III.
+
+OXLEY'S EXPEDITIONS TO THE LACHLAN AND MACQUARIE RIVERS.
+
+
+The passion for exploration was not yet allowed to slumber.
+Deputy-Surveyor Evans's discovery of the Bathurst Plains, with two
+promising rivers, only whetted the desire for further knowledge. It was
+presumed that the Lachlan and the Macquarie united their waters in some
+part of their course and finally disembogued in an unknown part of the
+eastern coast. But all this was mere conjecture, which required to be
+cleared up by actual exploration. A new expedition was accordingly set
+on foot by the Governor, and a fit person appointed to the post of
+leader. This was the Surveyor-General, John Oxley, R.N., who appears to
+have been both an able and amiable man, combining the _fortiter in re_
+with the _suaviter in modo_. Allan Cunningham, who was his close
+associate, always spoke of Oxley in terms of admiration and endearment.
+Among other meritorious services he had the credit of giving to New
+South Wales the first map of her immense territories, a task for which
+he was well qualified by extensive colonial travel in his official
+capacity.
+
+
+I.
+
+This expedition, as finally organized under the conduct of Oxley,
+consisted of Allan Cunningham, as king's botanist, Charles Frazer, as
+colonial botanist, William Parr, as mineralogist, and eight others. On
+the 20th of April, 1817, all the members of the expedition met at a
+store depôt on the bank of the Lachlan River, which had been fixed as
+the point of departure. The details of their weary wanderings have been
+recorded only at too great length in Oxley's published journals. The
+author in the commencement of his work apologized for the uneventful
+character of the narrative, and if this was necessary when enthusiasm
+for exploration was at fever heat, the reader of the present day is not
+likely to consider it superfluous. The fault, however, did not lie with
+the writer, but is to be attributed to the uninteresting materials which
+form the staple of his bulky volumes. The country he had to traverse
+soon turned out to be singularly tame and tedious. The sea coast, with
+its never-ending scenes of beauty, had been left far behind; the
+mountain ranges, with their vast and varied grandeur, had sunk below the
+horizon, and in place of both were found only the dull and dreary plains
+of the Australian bush. Were it not that the whole of the country was
+new, this record of daily travel would read like the diary of a
+conscientious but uneventful life. It will be desirable, therefore, to
+touch only on the chief points of the narrative.
+
+Starting from the point previously indicated, the party proceeded on
+their travels along the southern bank of the river. Wild fowl appeared
+in large numbers, offering excellent sport. The natives also were met
+with more frequently than would have been agreeable had they been
+disposed to be troublesome, which, fortunately, they were not. The one
+thing which surprised the explorers was the behaviour of the Lachlan,
+which, after showing itself a goodly river of a hundred feet in width,
+threatened to end its career in a most undignified fashion. This it very
+soon did, as they believed, by resolving itself into a succession of
+marshes, to which they gave the name of the Lachlan Swamps. Being unable
+to trace the river any further, Oxley now resolved to abandon the
+enterprise and return home by a different route. He made up his mind,
+accordingly, to make for the southern coast, which he hoped to strike
+about Cape Northumberland, and thence reach Sydney by sea. In this
+direction the course was steered till the 4th of July, when further
+progress became extremely difficult, from the sterility of the country
+and almost interminable forests of mallee, which Oxley, in a play of the
+imagination, named the Euryalean scrub. At last it became apparent to
+all that they would have to return to the Lachlan, through the want of
+water, if for no other cause, and this was now done. The retrograde
+movement was singularly unfortunate. Had they proceeded only twenty
+miles further the Murrumbidgee would have been discovered, with its
+never-failing volume of water. But, in their ignorance, it was otherwise
+determined, and a laurel lost to the wreath of this distinguished
+explorer. Nineteen weary days were consumed on this return journey, at
+the end of which the Lachlan was reached, a long distance below the
+swamps from which it had emerged, and was flowing in a strong current
+confined within high banks. Waterfowl were again seen and caught in
+abundance. Fish also were plentiful, some of them--the "Murray
+cod"--weighing sixty or seventy pounds. This good fortune induced the
+explorers to continue their journey down the river, in the hope of
+reaching some satisfactory result. This expectation was not realized.
+They were again landed among swamps and marshes, which were now regarded
+for certain as the termination of the Lachlan, and the exploration was
+conducted no further in this direction. Here, for the second time, Oxley
+narrowly missed discovering the Murrumbidgee, from which he was distant
+not more than two days' journey. The Lachlan had now been followed for
+about 500 miles from the place where the expedition had started, and it
+was resolved to proceed no further. A return was now made to Bathurst in
+an oblique direction, with the intention of striking the Macquarie at a
+point considerably below the place where it had first been seen by
+Evans. Some important discoveries were made during this cross-country
+cut. The Elizabeth River, Bell's River, and the Rivulet were met with
+and named. Most important of all was the discovery of Wellington Valley,
+an extensive tract of the finest country, well suited to all the
+purposes of civilized man, and diversified with scenery of great
+beauty. After travelling 150 miles from the lower swamps of the Lachlan
+the Macquarie was struck about 50 miles below the place where it had
+been seen by Evans. It was a river of good promise, and Oxley was
+strongly inclined to follow it, as he had done the Lachlan, but the
+slender remnant of provisions forbade the attempt. The expedition,
+therefore, made for Bathurst, which was reached on the 29th of August,
+after an absence of nineteen weeks. The distance travelled from start to
+finish amounted to 1,200 miles.
+
+
+II.
+
+Undeterred by the difficulties incurred on the Lachlan, Oxley, during
+the following year (1818), engaged in a similar expedition for the
+exploration of the lower course of the Macquarie. Tracing the unknown
+stream to the westward, he found himself led out of the region of hills
+into a country presenting a dead and monotonous level. Here the river
+began to lose its well-defined course and to spread its waters over the
+dreary expanse. With great difficulty, he succeeded in distinguishing
+the river from the lake for a short distance onward, after which further
+effort in a wide waste of water was to no purpose. Now, at last, he lost
+sight of land and trees altogether, though again able to discern the
+current of the Macquarie in a stream three feet deep winding in and out
+among thickets of reeds, which here grew to a gigantic height. Oxley
+conjectured he had now reached the commencement of an inland sea--a
+phantom which long played fast and loose with those who loved to
+speculate on the mysterious regions of Central Australia. In this pet
+fancy the explorer, like many other theorists, was quite mistaken, for
+this delusive expanse of water was not even the termination of the
+Macquarie River. Ten years later Captain Sturt succeeded in tracing it
+for 66 miles further, and found it ending its dubious career in the
+River Darling.
+
+Two courses were now open to the expedition--either to return home
+disappointed, or strike out in a new direction and make fresh
+discoveries. The latter alternative was adopted. During an earlier part
+of the journey their attention had been drawn to a lofty range of dark
+mountains lying athwart the northern horizon. The march was now towards
+this prominent landmark of the unknown domain of nature. Before it was
+reached, and after the expedition had been out for about two months,
+progress was arrested by the discovery of a river running in high flood.
+This was named the Castlereagh, and a safe passage was obtained after a
+short delay. There remained a weary journey to the range which had so
+long loomed in the distance, and was reached after much difficulty,
+owing to the boggy character of the ground. One of the principal
+elevations was ascended, from which a magnificent prospect was obtained,
+and the height ascertained to be about 3,000 feet. Oxley gave to this
+chain the name of the Arbuthnot Range, but it is still most generally
+known as the Warrambungle Mountains. The course of the expedition was
+now directed toward the east, in the hope of ultimately reaching the
+coast somewhere northward of Sydney. This purpose was rewarded by the
+discovery of the Liverpool Plains, the most valuable find that had
+hitherto fallen to the lot of any explorer. This is a splendid area of
+first-class land, consisting of level country embracing about 17,000
+square miles, supposed to have formed in past ages the bed of a small
+inland sea. The next discovery was the Namoi River, called after Sir
+Robert Peel by Oxley, but it is still best known under the native
+designation. After traversing the Liverpool Plains the expedition
+entered upon the very dissimilar New England country, and experienced
+fatiguing travel in mountain ranges, which was rewarded by the discovery
+of another river, named the Apsley. One of the loftiest peaks in this
+region was ascended by Oxley, and found to be about 6,000 feet in
+height. From the crown of this mountain giant he was gratified with a
+glimpse of the Pacific Ocean, and very fittingly gave to his position
+the name of Mount Seaview. Shortly after the descent from this monarch
+of the mountains another important river was met with. Oxley called it
+the Hastings, in memory of the notorious Governor-General of India, and
+here, for once, the name has stuck. This river was now followed to the
+sea and the entrance named Port Macquarie, hitherto unknown to
+Europeans. The exploring party, having now done their work so well,
+resolved to make for home by travelling along the coast. Difficulties
+undreamt of were encountered in the indentation of the shore and the
+estuaries of the rivers, one of which, the Manning, was now first
+discovered. These obstacles might well have proved insuperable but for
+their good luck in meeting with a boat, probably the relic of a wreck,
+which was stranded and half-buried in the sand. The welcome treasure was
+carried on their shoulders for 90 miles, and put to use in crossing
+estuaries as they came in the way. With this unexpected help in time of
+need the party were enabled to reach Port Stephens. This harbour had
+been discovered by Surveyor Grimes and was now well known. Thence
+conveyance was obtained by sea to Newcastle, where the toil-worn
+adventurers found themselves once more within the pale of civilization.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER IV.
+
+HUME AND HOVELL'S EXPEDITION FROM LAKE GEORGE TO PORT PHILLIP.
+
+
+Sir Thomas Brisbane succeeded to the Government of New South Wales on
+the 1st of December, 1821. The work of exploration, which had received
+such extraordinary impulse under Macquarie, was taken up with
+corresponding zeal by the new Governor. The southern limit of discovery
+at this period stood somewhere about Lake George; and public attention
+was largely directed to the unknown country lying beyond this outpost.
+The passion for exploration in this quarter had been discouraged, but
+not suppressed, by a rash and unwarranted statement made by Oxley in the
+journal he had given to the world. "We had demonstrated beyond a doubt,"
+said he, "that no river could fall into the sea between Cape Otway and
+Spencer's Gulf--at least, none deriving its waters from the eastern
+coast--and that the country south of the parallel of 34 deg., and west
+of the meridian 147 deg. 30 min. was uninhabitable and useless for all
+the purposes of civilized man." This singularly unfortunate assertion
+should have been affirmative instead of negative, for the principal
+rivers of the continent enter the sea within the limits here specified,
+and some of the largest tracts of good land in Australia are enclosed by
+these lines of longitude and latitude. Governor Brisbane, fortunately,
+was not convinced by this so-called demonstration, and felt disposed to
+have the question practically tested. With this object in view, he
+proposed to the late Alexander Berry, himself no mean explorer, to land
+a small party of convicts at Cape Howe or Wilson's Promontory, with
+instructions, under promise of reward, to find their way overland to
+Lake George as they best could, and ultimately to Sydney. Mr. Berry
+cordially fell in with the proposal, and recommended as leader of the
+party a young man who had already made his mark as a bushman. The
+latter, however, demurred to the plan of the expedition, wishing it to
+start from Lake George and work its way overland to Western Port, in
+Bass' Strait. This suggestion was adopted without scruple or delay, and
+the offer of his services gladly accepted.
+
+This young man's name was Hamilton Hume. He was a native of the colony,
+having been born at Parramatta in 1797. In those early days educational
+facilities were few, and it fell out from this cause that Hume owed all
+the learning he possessed to the instructions of his kind mother. In
+after life he was more indebted to his instincts than to his education.
+A bushman, like a poet, is born, not made; and Hume, before leaving his
+'teens, proved that genius for exploration was part of his nature. In
+company with his brother, and when but fifteen years of age, he
+discovered the district of Berrima, and shortly after completely
+explored that part of the country. In 1817 he passed the southern
+boundary of the known territory, and, in conjunction with Surveyor
+Meehan, made the discovery of Lake Bathurst and the Goulburn Plains.
+Again, in the year 1821, he proceeded further out, along with several
+mates, and came upon the Yass Plains. All these discoveries, however
+valuable for stockholders, may be regarded as but tentative essays in
+the work of exploration in comparison with what was to follow; yet they
+must have been highly advantageous in qualifying Hume for the arduous
+expedition on which his fame must chiefly rest.
+
+While the necessary preparations for this undertaking were afoot, Mr.
+Berry intimated to the Governor that another person was desirous of
+being associated with Hume in the position of leader. This was Captain
+Hovell, of Minto, a retired shipmaster. Having been a professional
+navigator, he was presumed to be able to reckon longitude and latitude,
+an accomplishment which the defectively-educated Hume, with all his
+bushmanship, did not possess. The two men being thus furnished with
+complementary qualifications, their association in the conduct of the
+expedition was counted as a certain advantage. This was surely a
+reasonable expectation; but the event proved that a greater mistake
+could not have been made. The two leaders, like jealous rivals,
+quarrelled from the start, kept wrangling throughout the expedition,
+and, after it was over, maintained a bitter feud, till death put an end
+to their animosity. The principal share in this work, and credit for the
+results, have been claimed by both, and it is not easy to satisfy
+oneself as to the real merits of the case. All things considered, the
+balance of evidence is in favour of Hume, and he shall have the more
+prominent place in the following sketch of the expedition.
+
+However favourable the Government might be to the progress of discovery,
+a poor provision was made for this long and perilous journey. The chief
+burden of the equipment fell upon the explorers themselves, who were ill
+able to bear the strain. Hume keenly felt the sacrifice of a favourite
+iron plough in order to purchase supplies. One way or other, a tolerable
+provision was forthcoming; and then the explorers, accompanied by six
+servants, started on the pioneer journey on the 17th of October, 1824.
+At the close of the first day's march they encamped on the bank of a
+river near the site of the present town of Yass. From the 19th to the
+22nd the expedition was detained in its progress by the Murrumbidgee. In
+the preceding year this river had been first seen by Europeans in its
+upper course in the Monaro country; but for all that Hume had virtually
+the merit of being the discoverer. The Murrumbidgee was found to be in
+high flood, and threatened an effectual bar to further progress. But
+difficulty aroused this explorer to Herculean effort. Being supplied
+with a provision-cart, Hume took off the wheels, and, with the help of a
+tarpaulin, improvised it into a rough-and-ready punt, which, assisted by
+one of the men, he dragged across the swollen river. Another day's
+march brought them to the Narrengullen Meadows, where the party
+encamped for two nights. Again proceeding southward, the Tumut River was
+discovered, and crossed without difficulty. Soon after, the expedition
+was saluted by a splendid surprise. From the summit of a ridge, a little
+before noon on a clear and beautiful day, the magnificent amphitheatre
+of the Australian Alps, robed in snow, burst upon the view, and was now
+first seen by civilized men. About this time, or shortly before, it
+became evident to Hume that it would be necessary to direct the line of
+march more to the west, in order to avoid the Snowy Mountains. From this
+proposal Hovell dissented. Both leaders continued obstinate, and each
+persisted in following a different course with his respective adherents.
+A division of property had now become inevitable, and the principle of
+partition seems to have been that primitive one in virtue of which the
+stronger gets the larger share. There being only one frying-pan
+remaining, each of the stalwart leaders simultaneously caught hold of
+this handy domestic article, and the poor pan went to pieces in the
+struggle, the result being such as would have followed the adoption of
+Solomon's advice to halve the living child. The separation of the
+leaders was not so irremediable as the division of the frying-pan.
+Hovell soon discovered the folly of schism, and, better thoughts
+prevailing, returned to re-unite his party with Hume's.
+
+After this incident nothing calling for special mention occurred till
+the 16th of November, which was signalled by the discovery of the
+principal river of Australia. Here was an agreeable surprise, coming as
+it did in defiance of the prediction of Oxley, who was reckoned the
+highest authority of the period. Hume called this river after his
+father; but, forgetful of this fact, Captain Sturt, having hit it in its
+lower course, gave it the name of the Murray, by which it is now known
+through its whole length. The party who thus found themselves brought to
+a stand-still naturally looked upon the crossing of so large a river as
+a formidable undertaking, and some even insisted on regarding it as the
+limit of the expedition--perhaps homesickness also was beginning to
+prevail over their ardour for exploration. Hume was inflexible, as
+usual, threatening to throw one of the remonstrants into the river if he
+would not cross over of his own free will. The menace was effectual, and
+the heroic leader had the satisfaction of seeing the whole of the
+expedition on the other side of the Murray, having escaped without a
+hitch or accident. Soon after, a tributary, the Mitta Mitta, was
+reached, and crossed by means of a float constructed of wattles, and
+covered with a tarpaulin. Turning its course more to the westward, the
+expedition continued to advance towards the attainment of its object.
+Passing near the site of the present Beechworth, the Ovens and Goulburn
+Rivers were crossed without serious difficulty. In fact, the whole
+journey up to this point had been remarkably uneventful for an
+Australian tour of exploration. But for the leaders' quarrels and
+separations it might have sunk into a rather tame and monotonous affair.
+Now at length, however, a Titanic obstacle had to be encountered. Mount
+Disappointment (of which Mount Macedon is a continuation) stretched
+across the track, as if to defy further progress. For a while they nobly
+persevered in hewing their way through the dense, tangled, and
+apparently interminable brushwood, being animated by the assurance of
+Hume that the opposing barrier could be nothing else than the Dividing
+Range, which betokened the near termination of their labours.
+Unfortunately the life and soul of the expedition, now more than ever
+indispensable to its success, here met with a disabling accident from a
+stake. The way through the scrub had to be abandoned, and a more
+circuitous route followed. The most serious difficulty on the march was
+a boggy creek in the locality where the town of Kilmore now stands. Here
+again an attempt was made to throw up the undertaking and return home.
+Hume, feeling certain in his own mind that they could not have much
+further to go, entered into a compact with the discontents, engaging to
+turn back in the course of two or three days should the goal of the
+journey fail to come in view within that period. On the same day, the
+13th December, the Dividing Range, in this part known as the Big Hill,
+was finally crossed, and all difficulties came to an end. Hume, having
+proceeded a short way in advance, and keeping an anxious look-out,
+observed an opening in the mountains and a falling of the land toward
+the south. This was a clear token heralding the approach to the close
+of their wanderings. Hume, alone as he was, gave way to an outburst of
+gladness, and awoke the echoes of the ranges with his lusty cheers. His
+men came speedily round him and shared his joy. Their fatigues and
+disappointments were henceforth things to be remembered, but no longer
+felt. The same evening they encamped on the splendid Iramoo Downs,
+having the ramparts of the range at their backs, and in three days more
+saw the long-desired billows of the ocean rolling at their feet. Having
+reached the close of the journey, they formed the last encampment within
+twelve miles of the present town of Geelong, after travelling, since
+their start from Lake George, not less than 670 miles.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER V.
+
+ALLAN CUNNINGHAM'S EXPLORATIONS.
+
+
+Few visitors to the Sydney Botanic Gardens can fail to notice a memorial
+obelisk standing on a shady islet in the lower grounds. This monument,
+as the inscription declares, was erected in memory of Allan Cunningham,
+an eminent botanist, and for some time curator of these Gardens. But
+beyond the scanty information here given, very little is now generally
+known of the life and work of this worthy man. Restrained by that
+modesty which is so often a concomitant of real genius, he shrank from
+publicity during his own brief and busy lifetime; and posterity, ever
+too forgetful of the obligations of the past, have allowed his
+achievements to lapse into unmerited oblivion. This is flagrant
+ingratitude which should be brought to an end by a generous endeavour to
+resuscitate a heroic and patriotic memory.
+
+Allan Cunningham was born at Wimbledon, England, on the 13th of July,
+1791, and was of Scotch extraction on the father's side. Being
+designated for the bar he entered in due time upon the legal profession,
+but soon abandoned it as uncongenial to his tastes and habits. The study
+of botany proved an irresistible fascination to young Allan, who soon
+became a proficient in this science. Having been introduced to Sir
+Joseph Banks, he obtained, through his influence, an appointment as
+King's Botanist for Australia, with the view of furnishing the Royal
+Gardens at Kew with a collection of new plants from the southern
+hemisphere. He sailed, accordingly, for his destination; and, after
+spending a short time in Brazil, landed in New South Wales, probably in
+December, 1816. As noticed in a preceding chapter he was associated with
+Oxley in his expeditions to the Lachlan and Macquarie rivers, and it was
+during these wanderings that the young botanist conceived a passion for
+exploration which did not leave him till the day of his death. This tour
+being ended, Cunningham returned to Parramatta, where he fixed his home,
+so far as he had one, during his life in Australia.
+
+In the close of 1817, the _Mermaid_, under the command of Captain,
+afterwards Admiral, King, was preparing to leave Port Jackson on a
+voyage of discovery on the western coast of Australia. Cunningham, to
+his intense satisfaction, received a letter from Sir Joseph Banks,
+directing him to join this expedition, in the interest of botanical
+science. Sailing through Bass' Strait the _Mermaid_ came to anchor in
+King George's Sound and other harbours, which proved to be well suited
+for the botanist's purpose, and yielded 300 species of new plants. With
+this spoil he came home fully satisfied. His next essay in this field
+was an excursion to Illawarra, which was always a favourite district
+with him. But this ramble was only an interlude. In 1819 he again
+joined Captain King in an expedition to the Macquarie Harbour, on the
+western coast of Van Diemen's Land (Tasmania), where also he collected
+many valuable specimens for the Kew Gardens. Soon after he was again
+associated with the same navigator on another voyage to the
+north-western coast. Still two more expeditions to the same coast were
+undertaken and successfully carried out within the next two years. The
+results in every case were highly successful, and the boundaries of
+science gained further extension from these enterprises.
+
+Having spent four years on these voyages with King, Cunningham became
+inoculated with the spirit of adventure, and thirsted for an exploit on
+his own account. The feat he proposed to himself was to open a practical
+route from Bathurst to the Liverpool Plains. This splendid district, as
+already narrated, had been discovered by Oxley three years previously;
+but he had entered it from the western side--so to speak, by the back
+door--on his journey from the marshes of the Macquarie. The discovery
+had, consequently, been useless, and the Liverpool Plains were as yet
+known only by name. Sir Thomas Brisbane, the Governor of the day,
+entered heartily into Cunningham's scheme, having clearly understood the
+importance of the object in view. Orders for an equipment were issued to
+the full extent of the explorer's requirements. All things being ready
+by the 31st of March, 1823, the party, consisting of the leader, with
+five men, and five pack-horses, carrying provisions for ten weeks, left
+Parramatta for Bathurst, which was reached on the 5th of April, and then
+the northward journey commenced. After many weary stages, during which
+the patience of the men and the strength of the horses were severely
+tried, they reached the Warrambungle Mountains, which form the southern
+boundary of the Liverpool Plains; but the difficulty in finding a
+passage through this barrier appeared to be insuperable. The first
+fortnight was spent to no purpose in attempting to discover an opening
+on the south-eastern side. Almost in despair, the party retraced their
+steps and fell back on a former encampment on the Goulburn River, the
+principal tributary of the Hunter. Provisions were now getting short,
+and the allowance had to be reduced; but, in spite of all these
+dispiriting circumstances, Cunningham still resolved to prosecute his
+enterprise by making another struggle to find an entrance from a
+different point. Turning now to the north-west, and searching along the
+front of the range, he succeeded at last, on the 5th of June, in
+discovering a gap which afforded a good passage into the Liverpool
+Plains. To this entrance he gave the name of Pandora's Pass, believing
+it would become the chief if not the only means of communication between
+the settlers at Bathurst and the Hunter River and the occupants of the
+plains. The following memorandum was buried in a valley immediately
+below the pass:--
+
+"After a very laborious and harassing journey from Bathurst, a party,
+consisting of five persons, under the direction of Allan Cunningham,
+H.M. Botanist (making the sixth individual), having failed of finding a
+route to the Liverpool Plains, whilst tracing the south base of the
+barrier mountains (before us, north), so far as 50 miles to the eastward
+of this spot, at length, upon prosecuting their research under this
+great mountain belt, north by west from this tree, to the very extensive
+levels connected with the above-mentioned plains, of which the
+southernmost of the chain is distant about 11 or 12 miles N.N.W. from
+this valley, and to which a line of trees has been carefully marked,
+thus opening an unlimited, unbounded, and seemingly well-watered country
+N.N.W. to call forth the exertions of the industrious agriculturist and
+grazier, for whose benefit the present labours of the party have been
+extended.... Buried for the information of the first farmers who may
+venture to advance so far to the northward as this vale; of whom it is
+requested that this document may not be destroyed, but carried to the
+settlement at Bathurst, after opening the bottle."
+
+This memorandum was found a few years ago, and the explorer's directions
+carried out. The object of the expedition being now accomplished, the
+party returned on the homeward track, and Allan Cunningham reached
+Parramatta on the 21st of July, 1823.
+
+In the next important enterprise he is found associated with Oxley,
+exploring the country around Moreton Bay. They surveyed the Brisbane
+River, pushing up the stream as far as was practicable in their boat.
+It turned out to have but a short course, and they were disappointed in
+their expectation of being carried for some distance into the interior.
+Yet this labour had the negative value of satisfying the public that the
+Brisbane was not one of the great rivers of Australia. The King's
+Botanist again found rich spoil for the Royal Gardens at Kew.
+
+During the winter months of 1825, being again bent on travel, Cunningham
+started for a northern tour. Leaving Parramatta, he crossed the
+Hawkesbury and proceeded towards Wollombi, one of the tributaries of the
+Hunter River. Still pushing ahead he reached Mount Danger, then
+Pandora's Pass, and entered upon the Liverpool Plains. These he now
+found to be a region of swamps and marshes as the consequence of a rainy
+season. Having crossed this district as best he could, the ardent
+traveller pressed on through Camden Valley and reached Dunlop's Head, at
+no great distance from the River Darling, which, with a little
+presentiment, he might soon have discovered and anticipated Captain
+Sturt. But as the country was now beginning to dip perceptibly, being in
+many places covered with water, which had accumulated during recent wet
+weather, he deemed prudence the better part of valour, and abandoned a
+hopeless enterprise. He was again in his own home by the 17th of June,
+having travelled in all about 700 miles.
+
+After a short season of rest, during which New Zealand was visited,
+this untiring scientist returned to the colony and offered himself for
+further exploration with renewed zest and zeal. The time was opportune,
+for the Governor had been anxiously looking about for a suitable leader
+to conduct an expedition to the distant north. Cunningham's offer was
+therefore eagerly accepted, and ample provision made for his
+requirements. All things being ready, the start was made on the 30th of
+April, 1827, with six picked men and eleven heavily-laden horsemen. The
+route skirted the western flank of the Liverpool Plains, and by the 11th
+of May the party entered upon ground hitherto untrodden by civilized
+man. A fine valley now opened to view, and was named the Stoddart, in
+remembrance of an old friend of the explorer's. The Namoi River was next
+forded, and by the 25th the hilly country on the west had sunk into the
+plain. The scene that now lay before them will be best described in the
+words of the leader of the expedition. "A level open interior of vast
+expanse, bounded on the north and north-west by a distant horizon, broke
+suddenly on our view. At north-west, more particularly, it was evident
+to all of us that the country had a decided dip, and in that bearing the
+line of sight extended over a great extent of densely wooded or brushed
+land, the monotonous aspect of which was here and there relieved by a
+brown patch of plain; of these some were so remote as to appear a mere
+speck on the _ocean_ of land before us, on which the eye sought
+anxiously for a rising smoke as indicative of the presence of the
+wandering aborigines, but in vain; for, excepting in the immediate
+neighbourhood of a river of the larger magnitude, these vast solitudes
+may be fairly said to be almost entirely without inhabitants. We had now
+all the high grounds on our right, or to the east of us, and before us,
+to the north, a level wooded country." These plains which ran out
+towards the western interior, having turned out to be drier than was
+expected, the line of route was now directed more to the north and
+north-west, with the result of discovering and crossing the Dumaresq
+River, within a few days. The course next lay for some time through a
+poor and inhospitable country in which the jaded horses fared badly
+enough. By the 5th of June, this sterile belt was left behind, and now
+the eyes of the patient explorers rested on one of the finest regions
+they had ever beheld. For many a league north, east, and west the field
+of vision was filled with a panorama of boundless plains, rolling downs,
+and azure mountain ranges. This magnificent territory, rivalling a
+principality in size, was clad with luxuriant vegetation and generally
+well watered. The name Darling Downs was subsequently bestowed on this
+fine country in honour of Governor Darling, and it now forms one of the
+most valued possessions in the colony of Queensland. The average
+elevation of this table-land Cunningham found to be about 1,800 feet
+above sea-level. Had this worthy man performed no other public service
+during his lifetime, the discovery of the Darling Downs would have
+given him a strong claim on the gratitude of posterity.
+
+Having now sufficiently realized the aim of the northern expedition,
+Allan Cunningham ceased to push farther in that direction, and made
+eastward for the coast. Here also was made an important discovery on a
+smaller scale in the unexpected appearance of a fertile valley, with a
+river of greater size than a mountain stream. To both the valley and the
+river he gave the name of Logan, in compliment to the commander of the
+penal settlement at Brisbane. The expedition tarried for some time in
+this lovely vale, where both men and beasts of burden enjoyed
+much-needed repose. Cunningham himself, who scarcely understood what
+rest meant, botanized as usual, and examined the physical configuration
+of the country. On a fine morning he scaled one of the impending peaks,
+from the summit of which he obtained a comprehensive view of the
+situation and its surroundings. To the south-east, at the distance of 60
+or 70 miles, the towering cone of Mount Warning, the sailor's beacon,
+rose in impressive grandeur; while towards the north-east the environs
+of Moreton Bay were plainly visible. This latter revelation made it
+obvious that the proper route to the Darling Downs would be from Moreton
+Bay, by the Brisbane River, and through the Main Range. Hence it became
+a matter of the first importance to find a passage through the
+mountains, if within the bounds of possibility. An effort was
+accordingly made, and an opening, as he believed, discovered, but its
+complete verification had to be deferred till another opportunity. The
+homeward journey was resumed on the 16th of June. On the 30th, the
+Dumaresq River was crossed 50 miles above the outward bound track of the
+expedition. In ten days more a large river was reached, and is now
+well-known under the native name Gwydir. They next came upon a wooded
+tract, reached by a descent of 1,200 feet, a sore task for the weary
+horses. On the 19th the party were again on the Liverpool Plains, and a
+few days' more travelling brought them to their welcome homes. They had
+journeyed over 800 miles, and been absent thirteen weeks. One noteworthy
+incident connected with the tour was the paucity of native inhabitants
+met with in any of the districts. Only five times, from first to last,
+had the black-fellows put in an appearance, and even then the explorers
+had seen nothing but the colour of their skin.
+
+Cunningham's health now began to give way, and he longed to return to
+old England, to end his days in the land of his birth; but, before doing
+so, he planned and executed another exploring excursion to Moreton Bay.
+His principal object was to obtain certain evidence of the existence and
+practicability of the pass, which he believed to have been already
+discovered. After much rough work he had the good fortune to set this
+question at rest and point out a passage into the Darling Downs, as he
+had formerly done into the Liverpool Plains. This pass still retains
+the name of Cunningham's Gap. The following succinct but sufficient
+notice is found in the explorer's own notes:--"This pass, or door of
+entrance from the sea-coast to a beautiful pastoral country of undefined
+extent, seen from this point, was this day (25th August, 1828) visited
+by Allan Cunningham and a convict servant, and the practicability of a
+high road being constructed through it at some future day was most fully
+ascertained. The pass is in latitude 23° 3' S., and longitude 152° 26'
+E., and distant 54 statute miles from Brisbane Town." Four years later
+he was able to carry out his purpose of returning to England; but his
+heart was in Australia all the while, and he became impatient to get
+back to its sunny skies and balmy air. On being offered the situation of
+Colonial Botanist he accepted the appointment, and returned to the land
+of so many of his labours; but his new office was not what he expected.
+Besides keeping the Botanic Gardens, which would, alone, have been a
+most congenial occupation, he was required to act as landscape gardener
+for the upper classes and take charge of one hundred convicts, forty of
+whom were lodged in the barracks within the Gardens, and for whose good
+behaviour the curator was alone responsible. In addition to all this
+drudgery he was compelled to grow vegetables for the Government
+officials. Such servitude was breaking his heart, and it can surprise no
+one to find him throwing up the appointment in disgust. This undignified
+treatment of a man of shining merits is tartly alluded to in the
+_Sydney Mail_ of the 29th January, 1838:--
+
+"THE BOTANICAL, ALIAS THE KITCHEN GARDEN.--We have had frequently to
+call the attention of the colonists to the fact that a kitchen garden,
+under the pretence of a botanic garden, is supported in Sydney at an
+expense of from £800 to £1,000 a year. We scarcely ever walk through
+this garden without seeing some servant with a basket, carrying off
+vegetables or fruit for Mrs. This or Mrs. That, the wife of some
+official. Can't these people go to market and purchase their supplies as
+independent persons do, instead of poaching on what is really public
+property. Seriously we do say that such an impudent job should be done
+away with. It is, in fact, so barefaced that Mr. Cunningham would no
+longer consent to remain a mere cultivator of official turnips and
+cabbages, and accordingly he has resigned the management of the Botanic
+Garden in disgust."
+
+This valuable life was now fast hastening to its close. Twenty-five
+years of incessant labour, often performed under the most trying
+circumstances, broke down a constitution never particularly robust, and
+feeling this to be the case, Allan Cunningham retired from public view
+into his own hired house--but only to die. At the early age of 48 years,
+perceiving the hand of death to be upon him, he calmly resigned himself
+to the will of his Maker, and died as becomes a Christian. He expired on
+the 27th of June, 1839. Admiral King, who had stood his firm friend
+during the quarter of a century of Cunningham's active life, refers to
+his own bereavement in these touching words:--"Alas, poor Allan! He was
+a rare specimen, quite a genus of himself; an enthusiast in Australian
+geography; devoted to his own science, botany; a warm friend, and an
+honest man; and, to crown all, when the time came, he resigned himself
+into the arms of his Saviour without a murmur."
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER VI.
+
+CAPTAIN STURT'S THREE EXPEDITIONS.
+
+
+The next hero that steps to the front is Charles Sturt, captain of the
+39th regiment, which was stationed at Sydney in the early days of our
+history. He stands, beyond all question, in the first rank of Australian
+explorers. His single compeer, Sir Thomas Mitchell, was more fortunate
+in discovery, but it may be doubted whether he excelled Captain Sturt in
+real capability for this work. The future historian will probably decide
+the rival claims by bracketing the two names as holding a joint first in
+Australian exploration. Naturally brave, resolute, and patient in
+labour, Sturt was, moreover, a man of varied culture and extensive
+scientific acquirements. As an officer in the army he had been
+accustomed to command, and at no time did he experience any difficulty
+in managing the several exploring parties under his charge, although
+they were mostly drawn from the ordinary convict element at Port
+Jackson. This influence over others may have been due to natural tact
+even more than to acquired habit, but in either case it proved a
+valuable qualification, and served him in good stead with the native
+population as well as with his own men. His heroism often brought him
+into situations of extreme peril, being sometimes environed with savages
+well armed and out of all proportion to the number of his own men; but
+his adroitness never failed to extricate himself and party from the most
+imminent danger. Scarcely any of our explorers opened up so much of the
+interior, or so frequently came into contact with savage tribes, and yet
+his humane disposition preserved him all through his career from
+shedding the blood of a single individual of that unhappy race which
+others, with less excuse, have not scrupled to shoot down like dogs.
+When stooping under the weight of years, with a constitution enfeebled
+by heroic exertions, and so afflicted with blindness as to be unable to
+finish his narrative without the aid of an amanuensis, the veteran
+explorer devoutly thanked God that, amid all his critical encounters and
+hair-breadth escapes, he had been saved from the necessity of shedding a
+drop of blood from the veins of the Australian aborigines.
+
+
+I.
+
+As early as the year 1818 the Macquarie River had been explored as far
+as practicable by John Oxley, the Surveyor-General. This indefatigable
+traveller had traced its course into the far interior till it seemed
+lost and appeared to terminate in a series of swamps, overgrown with
+dense reeds. All his efforts to proceed further westward proved
+unavailing, and he turned aside to other work, being under the
+impression that he had seen all that was visible of the Macquarie. Like
+some others of his time, Oxley had taken up with the idea of a
+mediterranean sea which was supposed to cover the interior of Australia;
+and such being his opinion, it was natural to fancy he had reached its
+margin in those swamps of seemingly indefinite extent into which the
+Macquarie poured its flood. During the next ten years Cunningham had
+pushed as far north as the Darling Downs, while Hume and Hovell had been
+equally successful in forcing their way south to Port Phillip; but out
+west no progress was made beyond the goal of Oxley's explorations. But
+ignorance of the interior hung like a cloud over the settlement, a vague
+feeling of mystery kept curiosity awake, and a general desire began to
+be expressed for fresh explorations in that direction. The times, too,
+which in other respects happened to be signally disastrous, appeared to
+be just as favourable for such an enterprise. A drought of several
+years' standing was then devastating the colony; but this misfortune,
+which brought ruin to the doors of so many settlers, seemed, strangely
+enough, to be a strong recommendation to start an exploring expedition.
+It had been Oxley's misfortune to examine the country during an
+exceptionally wet season, and it was conjectured that floods had laid
+under water the low-lying country on the further reaches of the
+Macquarie, and thus interposed a temporary obstruction to the westward
+advance of exploration. But now, after a drought of long standing, it
+was hoped that the swamps, if not dried up, would at least be so much
+reduced as to render the much-desired object more likely to be
+accomplished.
+
+Governor Darling, accordingly, determined on sending out another
+expedition. In the all-important question of a leader, he was singularly
+fortunate in selecting Captain Sturt. The latter took as his associates
+Mr. Hamilton Hume, who had already gained his own laurels in
+exploration, Staff-Surgeon M'Leod, two soldiers, and eight convicts. The
+instructions received from headquarters were, generally, to follow up
+the discoveries of Oxley, to endeavour to ascertain the "fate" of the
+Macquarie, and to put forth the utmost effort to penetrate westward to
+the furthest possible limit.
+
+All the material requisites for the expedition were forwarded to
+Wellington Valley, which at that time was the outpost of civilization
+toward the west, and Sturt was instructed to form his depôt at Mount
+Harris, which had been Oxley's most advanced encampment ten years
+earlier. All preparations being made, the party left Sydney on the 10th
+of September, 1828, under the command of Captain Sturt, who only a week
+previously had followed the remains of Oxley to the grave. After a few
+days of uneventful travelling through the settled territory, Wellington
+Valley was reached, and, by the 10th of December, the explorers were
+encamped at Mount Harris, the _ne plus ultra_ of their predecessors, and
+near the supposed termination of the Macquarie River. Although ten years
+had passed away, traces of the old camp were easily found. From the
+summit of the mountain a good prospect towards the interior was
+obtained, and a tolerably favourable impression left on the minds of
+Sturt and Hume. The marshes were seen to be dried up in some places
+altogether, and in others very much contracted, and, as the bed of the
+river continued to be well defined, there did not appear to be much
+difficulty in pushing the limit of discovery considerably beyond the
+line at which it had stood for ten years past.
+
+Following the course of the Macquarie for some miles westward, it was
+found to enter a swamp of considerable size. As the sluggish current was
+the only clue to lead them through this ambiguous tract of land and
+water, it was deemed indispensable to keep to the channel at all hazards
+as it meandered through the marshes. For this purpose Sturt here turned
+to account a good-sized boat which had, with a wise foresight, been
+provided among the travelling requisites. But their progress by water
+proved to be less expeditious than it had been on the land, for the
+channel wriggled like a snake, and the navigation was provokingly
+hindered by snags. Gradually the course of the river became better
+defined, but only to lose itself again in a labyrinth of creeks and
+marshes. Puzzled and bewildered, with no hope of further progress in the
+boat, Sturt and Hume resolved to make separate excursions to the right
+and left, each taking his own complement of followers. Many hardships
+had to be endured from heat and drought, while the results were not very
+considerable. Sturt rode over 200 miles of desert country and was much
+fatigued. The principal discoveries made about this time were Oxley's
+Table-land and New Year's Creek, mistaken by the explorers for a branch
+of the Macquarie, but which was in reality the Bogan River. Eventually
+both sections of the expedition reunited and bravely struck out for the
+interior, giving defiance to thirst and fatigue, and devoutly wishing
+for something to turn up. They had not far to go till this desire was
+realized. At a moment when they were not thinking of it, the foremost of
+the party found their progress stopped on the bank of one of the
+principal rivers in Australia. Its ample channel extended to seventy or
+eighty yards in breadth, and its bosom was covered with wild fowl of
+every wing. Almost perishing with thirst, both man and beast rushed down
+the shelving bank, and in a moment were gulping down the water of the
+welcome stream. Never did travellers meet with so "bitter" a
+disappointment. "I shall never forget," says Sturt, "the cry of
+amazement or the look of terror with which they cried out to inform me
+that the river was so salt as to be unfit to drink." The cup of relief
+was dashed from their lips, and they were left to the most gloomy
+reflections on the future supply of this element. They conjectured, not
+unnaturally, that this saline quality must be derived from near contact
+with the sea, and anxiously watched for the slightest indications of a
+rising or a falling tide, but to no purpose. The cause was afterwards
+traced to briny springs in the river's banks, which must have been a
+temporary occurrence, for the same inconvenience is not met with now.
+The discovery in all other respects was clearly perceived to be of the
+utmost value, and went far to annihilate the pet theory of an inland
+sea, which thus kept receding further and further from human ken. It was
+already evident that this noble river must play a principal part in the
+drainage of the western slope of the mountain ranges, and we now know
+that it forms the backbone of the river system of eastern Australia and
+the highway of intercolonial commerce. Sturt, therefore, paid Governor
+Darling no mean compliment in associating his name with this grand
+discovery and calling it the Darling River.
+
+The expedition now followed the lead of the River Darling for about
+sixty-six miles. As the country continued to be inhospitable, the blacks
+troublesome, and the supply of water precarious, it was resolved to
+proceed no further in that direction. A return was accordingly made to
+the depôt at Mount Harris, which was reached partly by way of New Year's
+Creek, or the Bogan River, without any serious mishap being encountered.
+
+Among the secondary instructions given to the expedition was a direction
+to push northwards, if baffled and driven back from the western
+interior. They had not failed in that quarter by any means, but as their
+work there was finished, and a good supply of provisions left, it was
+thought advisable to attempt a journey to the Castlereagh, which was
+simply known to exist. In this effort they were again successful.
+Having travelled by way of Morriset's Ponds, a sufficient supply of
+water was obtained to help them on to the Castlereagh, where, of course,
+it was expected to be abundant, seeing that Oxley had been able to cross
+it after some delay and with much difficulty. But this anticipation was
+doomed to disappointment. The bed of the river was found to be as dry as
+dust. The explorers, after a long search, hit upon only one small pool
+in the sand which yielded but a temporary supply. The Castlereagh was
+now traced towards its supposed junction with the Darling for the
+distance of 100 miles, 45 of which were destitute of water. But their
+perseverance was rewarded with a second view of the Darling, which was
+struck about 90 miles above the point where the original discovery had
+been made. The stream here swarmed with fish, but was still salt and
+unfit to drink. Having crossed over to the further side, a dash was made
+by a short excursion into the interior, which proved, like the other
+side, to be a parched wilderness. The state of the country as observed
+throughout this journey is thus summed up in Sturt's narrative:--"So
+long had the drought continued that the vegetable kingdom was almost
+annihilated, and minor vegetation had almost disappeared. In the creeks
+weeds had grown and withered and grown again, and young saplings were
+now rising in their beds nourished by the moisture that still remained;
+but the largest forest trees were drooping, and many were dead. The
+emus, with outstretched necks, gasping for breath, searched the
+channels of the river for water in vain; and the native dog, so thin
+that it could hardly walk, seemed to implore some friendly hand to
+despatch it. How the natives subsisted it was difficult to say, but
+there was no doubt of the scarcity of food amongst them." Surely this
+was no place to loiter in after the work was fairly accomplished.
+Contenting themselves with the substantial discoveries already made, the
+explorers resolved to return to the haunts of civilization. They soon
+found themselves in the lovely Wellington Valley, from which the
+expedition had been absent four months and a half. After another journey
+through the settled districts, each of the weary wanderers reached his
+home, no one having sustained any injury to life or limb during this
+long and hazardous enterprise.
+
+
+II.
+
+Captain Sturt enjoyed but a very limited repose after the fatigues of
+the Macquarie expedition. He had returned to Sydney about the beginning
+of May, 1829, and in September of the same year his undying enthusiasm
+was once more gratified with instructions from headquarters to get ready
+for a full exploration of the Murrumbidgee. The Macquarie and the
+Lachlan, terminating their respective courses in miserable swamps, or
+being believed to do so, had proved delusive guides to the interior of
+the continent. But the colonists were resolved to know the heart of
+Australia at all hazards. It was still believed that some river must
+lead thither, all previous disappointments notwithstanding. The
+Murrumbidgee alone remained as an untried experiment, and the little
+that was yet known of this river gave hope of a successful result. It
+had been first seen by two military officers, Currie and Ovens, on their
+discovery of the Monaro country in 1823, and in the year following it
+was crossed with difficulty by Hume and Hovell on their journey to Port
+Phillip. Here, at last, was a stream something like those of other
+countries, rising in the Alpine mountain-land, and flowing with a strong
+and rapid current in that direction to which the eyes of explorers were
+being so anxiously turned. It was determined, therefore, to equip
+another expedition, under the command of Captain Sturt, to explore its
+unknown course, for the purpose of ascertaining whether it emptied
+itself into an inland sea or found its way to the southern or to the
+eastern coast. The party, under Sturt's leadership, consisted of Mr.
+George Macleay, son of the Colonial Treasurer, Mr. Frazer, botanist, and
+six others. Among other requisites a whale-boat was provided, which
+eventually proved of the utmost service to the purpose in view.
+
+The expedition left Sydney, in full force and high spirits, on the 3rd
+November, 1829. Goulburn Plains were reached by the 15th, and on the
+25th the Murrumbidgee was struck, not far from Jugiong. The appearance
+of the stream was quite up to Sturt's expectations, but the rugged
+country on its banks delayed the passage of the drays, and their
+progress was not very rapid. In a little time they reached the junction
+of the Dumot (Tumut) River, which considerably increased the volume of
+the Murrumbidgee, and this addition was accepted as a good omen. In
+their course along the river, sometimes on one side and sometimes on the
+other, occasional plains were traversed, extending from 400 to 700 acres
+in extent, and wholly devoid of timber. Lower down the river one of much
+larger size was reached, and here the explorers were not sorry to make a
+short break in the journey. The natives called this plain Pondebadgery.
+Its size was three and a half by two miles, the soil being rich and the
+scenery exquisite. On one side was the bend of the river, here 80 yards
+wide, and abounding in fish, one of which was found to weigh 40 pounds.
+Hamilton Plains were next discovered, and named after a favourite
+staff-surgeon. The expedition, it was believed, had now come within 25
+miles of the most southern point attained by Oxley. This notable
+explorer, having reached the swamps of the Lachlan, and being thus
+driven to his wits' end, resolved to strike southward and make for the
+coast, but want of water determined him to return to the Lachlan, after
+weeks of toilsome travel; whereas, had he only pushed on another 25
+miles, the Murrumbidgee would have been discovered, and a new era opened
+in Australian exploration. Sturt attempted to connect the surveys of
+Oxley's expedition with his own, but was not successful. As travelling
+continued to be slow and difficult, it was resolved to launch the boat
+and build a skiff to convey the provisions. This was accordingly done,
+some of the party being at the same time sent back to Goulburn with the
+drays. Seven days having been consumed in these preparations, the
+remainder of the party boldly committed themselves to the stream. Sturt
+had a strong presentiment that the Murrumbidgee would join some other
+river, and hoped to find it navigable for his boat during the remainder
+of its course. On the following day a serious mishap occurred. The skiff
+was sunk by a snag, and the provisions, after being much damaged, had to
+be recovered by diving. The enterprise was a hazardous one at the best.
+What with rapids at one time and snags at another, their lives on
+several occasions were in real jeopardy. But the longest lane has its
+turning, and this tortuous channel also had an end. On the seventh day
+after taking to the boat the bed of the river became strangely
+contracted, and the current so powerful that, in place of rowing, all
+their strength was needed to steady the boat, which was borne along with
+the swiftness of an arrow, and in another moment shot forth impetuously
+into the broad reach of the finest river in Australia. "It is impossible
+for me," says Sturt, "to describe the effect of so instantaneous a
+change of circumstances upon us. The boats were allowed to drift along
+at pleasure, and such was the force with which we had been shot out of
+the Murrumbidgee that we were carried nearly to the bank opposite its
+embouchure whilst we continued to gaze in silent astonishment on the
+capacious channel we had entered, and when we looked for that by which
+we had been led into it we could hardly believe that the insignificant
+gap that presented itself to us was indeed the termination of the
+beautiful stream whose course we had thus successfully followed. I can
+only compare the relief we experienced to that which the seaman feels on
+weathering the rock upon which he expected that his vessel would have
+struck, to the calm which succeeds moments of feverish anxiety, when the
+dread of danger is succeeded by the certainty of escape." This was
+indeed a noble river. Its width was 350 feet, its depth not less than
+12, and its current was running at the rate of two and a half knots an
+hour. The discoverers believed they had now obtained ample reward for
+all their toils and trials. This was the same river which had been
+discovered and crossed by Hume and Hovell where the town of Albury now
+stands, but between that point, where it had been first seen by
+civilized man, and the part now visited by Sturt, it had received so
+many tributaries as to make it a much larger and, in a sense, another
+river. Sturt called it the Murray, after the Imperial Colonial
+Secretary, but the original discoverer had named its upper course the
+Hume in memory of his father. For a time these names were confined to
+the respective parts of the river; and Dr. Lang censured Count
+Strzelecki for departing from this usage in his published work. General
+practice has now deserted the Doctor and followed the Count.
+
+The number and persistent hostility of the aborigines formed a serious
+obstacle to the progress of this expedition. It was computed that no
+fewer than 4,000 were met with on the Murray. They were a low type even
+for Australian savages, and did not give evidence of a single redeeming
+quality. Addicted to every vice, living in the deepest sink of
+bestiality, with bodies in many cases rotting with disgusting diseases,
+they presented a loathsome spectacle, and were avoided whenever
+possible. Even when not disposed to be openly hostile, their presence at
+the camp was a terrible nuisance, and they were generally persuaded to
+leave, or hunted away. Sometimes they would rally their forces, and then
+prove not only troublesome but really dangerous. Like all savages they
+were adepts in deceit, and could wait their opportunity when a purpose
+had to be served. By dint of numbers and strategy together, they nearly
+succeeded on one occasion in annihilating the expedition. So long as the
+river maintained its usual width the boat was tolerably safe in the
+middle of the channel, for the spears of the savages were nearly
+harmless when they reached the centre of the stream, but their progress
+was rapidly approaching a spit which stretched far into the channel, and
+this position was seen to be occupied by blacks numbering more than
+fifty to one of Sturt's party. The situation was awfully critical, and
+in a few minutes more appeared to be positively desperate, for the boat
+grounded in shoal-water, and the explorers were at the mercy of the
+savages. Happily at this juncture some other natives, who had
+previously been friendly to the white men, arrived on the scene, and,
+through a somewhat barbarous style of intercession, prevailed with their
+sable fraternity in the interest of Sturt, and the murderous attack was
+immediately abandoned.
+
+Travel through an unknown country is usually a series of surprises, and
+it was no ordinary one that was now in store for the explorers. The spit
+which had threatened to be so disastrous proved to be an embankment
+silted up by the entrance of another large river into the Murray. Sturt
+had already been looking out for the junction of the Darling, which he
+had discovered on the previous expedition; and the question now to be
+determined was whether this could be the embouchure of the same river.
+He had struck the Darling at two points only a few months before, and at
+both places its water had been found too salt to drink; here, however,
+it was quite fresh; but in all other respects appearances were in favour
+of this river, and the Darling Sturt maintained it to be. For years
+after his decision was disputed, and even ridiculed by an authority of
+no less weight than Sir Thomas Mitchell. Subsequent exploration finally
+settled the question in Sturt's favour. The river was and could have
+been no other but the Darling, and thus another important problem of
+Australian geography was satisfactorily solved.
+
+Day after day the boat, with its adventurous crew, glided down the
+united stream of the Murray and the Darling. Sometimes they passed over
+wide and long reaches, stretching out for many miles, but occasionally,
+too, much difficulty was experienced in clearing the rapids. For a
+considerable part of the course the banks were high and steep, but
+usually picturesque. The country, so far as could be judged from a
+passing boat, was mostly of the poorest quality, offering scarcely a
+patch likely to reward the labour of the farmer. In one respect Sturt
+was the most unfortunate of the explorers. From first to last he hardly
+ever had the good luck to hit upon a large tract of fine country, the
+Alexandrina district excepted. His mission seemed to be the discovery of
+deserts, and of these he made known more than enough to give Australia a
+bad name. Such being Sturt's ill-fortune, it is not surprising to find
+him indulging in gloomy views regarding the great interior; but even in
+these forebodings he fell short of Oxley, who was quite a Cassandra in
+his way. In the introduction to his narrative the Captain tries to
+account for the predominance of poor land in this outlying region of the
+world, and is inclined to attribute it to the want of decaying vegetable
+matter, as the trees seldom shed their leaves, and the little that is
+supplied from this or other sources being usually destroyed by bush
+fires. But Australia is not the desert land which Sturt imagined, or
+even portrayed, as will be seen further on. Its richest lands were yet
+locked up, and this same explorer was unconsciously preparing the key by
+which they were to be opened to private enterprise and the public
+benefit. Between the entrance of the Darling and what is now known as
+the Great Bend an important tributary was observed to fall in from
+either side. The one from the north Sturt called the Rufus, in honour of
+Mr. George Macleay, the second on the expedition. Probably the reader
+fails to perceive the point of the compliment. It lies just here: Mr.
+Macleay possessed a splendid head of red hair, and _rufus_ being the
+Latin for red, down it went for the name of the river. The Captain,
+notwithstanding his sombre tinge, must have had a quiet vein of humour
+in his composition. The other tributary was called the Lindsay, after a
+gentleman of that name who was then Acting-Governor of the colony. On
+gaining the lower reaches of the Murray it was observed to widen
+rapidly, and at the 35° 15' of S. latitude expanded into a magnificent
+lake 60 miles long and 50 in width, which was named Alexandrina, in
+honour of the young princess, who soon after became Queen Victoria. When
+the far end of the lake had been reached, persistent but unavailing
+attempts were made to get the boat to sea. Before leaving Sydney it had
+been arranged to send a small vessel to St. Vincent Gulf to wait for the
+expedition, that being the most likely quarter for it to turn up if its
+course should be directed towards the southern coast. The appointed
+rendezvous was not far off, and the explorers had every reason to strive
+to reach it; but it was to no purpose that they wearied themselves in
+the effort. The narrow and tortuous channel which connected Lake
+Alexandrina with Encounter Bay was impracticable even for a boat. It
+was, therefore, necessary to return by the way they had come. This was
+an awfully serious matter. They had now been 32 days in the boat, during
+which one-half of the provisions had been consumed. If the depôt on the
+Murrumbidgee was to be reached on the remaining moiety, it could only be
+by rowing up the river in the same period of time they had taken to
+glide down the current. This appeared to be scarcely possible, but all
+their strength was put forth, and they displayed such pluck and
+perseverance as shed enduring lustre on the heroism of Australian
+exploration. "Our journeys," writes Sturt, "were short, and the head we
+made against the stream but trifling. The men had lost the proper and
+muscular jerk with which they once made the waters foam and the oars
+bend. Their whole bodies swung with an awkward and laboured motion.
+Their arms appeared to be nerveless, and their faces became haggard,
+their persons emaciated, their spirits wholly sank--nature was so
+completely overcome that, from mere exhaustion, they frequently fell
+asleep during their painful and almost unceasing exertions. I became
+captious, and found fault where there was no occasion, and lost the
+equilibrium of my temper in contemplating the condition of my
+companions. No murmur, however, escaped them, nor did any complaint
+reach me that was intended to indicate that they had done all they could
+do. I frequently heard them in their tent, when they thought I had
+dropped asleep, complaining of severe pains and of great exhaustion. 'I
+must tell the Captain to-morrow,' some of them would say, 'that I can
+pull no more!' To-morrow came, and they pulled on, as if reluctant to
+yield to circumstances. Macnamee at last lost his senses. We first
+observed this from his incoherent conversation, but eventually from his
+manner. He related the most extraordinary tales, and fidgetted about
+eternally in the boat." In such a plight did they reach the depôt on the
+Murrumbidgee. Altogether 88 days were spent in the boat, and the
+distance travelled could not have been less than 4,000 miles. The rest
+of the journey was performed by easy stages, the party arriving in
+Sydney on the 25th of May, after an absence of almost seven months.
+
+
+III.
+
+The discovery of a rich territory on Lake Alexandrina, was made in 1830,
+and before another decade had passed away the settlement of South
+Australia was established in this promising region. By a singular
+fatality, Sturt, as an explorer, had the infelicity of stumbling
+continually upon deserts, or on tracts only a shade better; but the
+termination of the Murray, which he had navigated so courageously,
+brought him to the borders of an ample area of the richest land in
+Australia. In these circumstances it was natural for him to evince a
+special fondness for the locality which had been the most fortunate, as
+it was also the latest, of his discoveries. The retired explorer
+accordingly settled down with his family in this chosen haunt, with the
+intention of making his permanent home in the young colony of South
+Australia. He received a civil appointment as Surveyor-General, which
+enabled him to live in comparative quiet and comfort, and he was highly
+respected for his great services to Australia in general. After so many
+years of retirement, probably no one expected to hear anything further
+of Charles Sturt as an explorer. It could not, therefore, fail to
+produce a feeling of surprise when it became known that after fourteen
+years' repose he had sought and obtained from Lord Stanley the necessary
+requisites for another expedition into the interior. He had again become
+fired with his old ambition, and was now covetous of the honour of being
+the first European to plant his foot on the centre of Australia. All
+things being in readiness for this heroic undertaking, Sturt left
+Adelaide on the 15th of August, 1844, with a party of fourteen men,
+amply provisioned. He chose the route of the Darling and Murray rivers,
+which he proposed to follow till the outskirts of civilization were
+reached. The Murray was struck at "Murrundi," the residence at that time
+of another noted explorer, Mr. E. J. Eyre, who had recently accomplished
+his adventurous journey round the Great Australian Bight, and the river
+valley was thereafter traversed as far as the junction of the
+Williorara, a locality better known now under the name of the Laidley
+Ponds. This place was becoming known to overlanders, and it was hoped
+it might prove a suitable site for the first depôt; but this expectation
+was hardly justified by personal inspection, and it became evident that
+the expedition must proceed at once into the interior. Sturt accordingly
+gathered his party around him, and, having engaged in appropriate
+devotional exercises, in which he committed himself and his men to the
+watchful care of Almighty God, launched bravely forth into the perils of
+the wilderness. Some distance ahead a mountain chain was visible, to
+which the name of Stanley, or Barrier Range, was afterwards given. The
+march was at first directed towards these heights, in the hope that a
+river might be discovered on the opposite fall which would lead into the
+interior. Here again expectation was doomed to disappointment, and the
+expedition was forced to proceed along the range, where water alone was
+to be found. Gradually the mountains sank into the plains to the
+northward, and it was resolved to strike out for the centre from this
+point, taking the risk of obtaining a sufficient supply of water at
+tolerable intervals. The country traversed in this direction proved to
+be cheerless and sterile in the extreme, and the journey was tedious and
+trying to a corresponding degree. Nevertheless, the party pressed
+forward, doing their best to deserve success. But it was to no purpose.
+The country became still more inhospitable, and water utterly failed. It
+was evident that the object of the expedition could not be reached by
+this route, and Sturt, wearied in body and chafed in spirit, was
+compelled to retreat to the mountains on his outward track. This was his
+first repulse from the centre of Australia.
+
+A return was made to the depôt, which had fortunately been established
+not far from the range, in a lovely oasis in the desert. No reader of
+the narrative of the expedition can soon forget the strange incidents of
+this depôt in the Rocky Glen, which unexpectedly became the prison-house
+of the whole party for six months. The supply of water here was good and
+abundant, though not inexhaustible; and this advantage was of supreme
+importance, as a drought of unparalleled severity was fast closing in
+upon the expedition. Being wearied and worn out by the toilsome journey
+to the northward, Sturt resolved to give his men a brief breathing time
+in this favoured spot; and when this temporary repose was ended he
+found, to his consternation, that his retreat was cut off, while it was
+equally impossible to advance. Here is his own description of the heat
+and misery they had to undergo:--"The tubes of the thermometer burst,
+the bullocks pawed the ground to get a cooler footing, the men's shoes
+were scorched as if by fire, their finger nails were brittle as glass;
+the lead dropped from the pencil, the ink dried in the pen, as Sturt
+wrote up his daily journal; the drays almost fell to pieces, the screws
+loosened in their boxes, the horn handles of the instruments and their
+combs split, the wool on the sheep and their own hair ceased to grow."
+Many persistent efforts were made on every side to find a way of
+escape; but all to no purpose, for the drought had closed them in as
+effectually as a besieging army. There was no help for it but to make
+the best of their misfortune until rain came to the rescue. Fortunately
+they had sufficient feed and plenty of water for their live stock, and
+for such mercies they were truly thankful. As the summer advanced it was
+found necessary to seek a partial refuge from the scorching rays of the
+sun in an underground chamber, which had been constructed for this
+purpose. The imprisonment had, at the same time, a few negative
+advantages. For one thing, the completeness of their isolation formed a
+sufficient safeguard against the assaults of the barbarous tribes of the
+interior; for the same calamity which prevented the one party from
+getting away equally prohibited the other from approaching this oasis in
+the desert. During the six months' detention only one blackfellow had
+been able to put in an appearance, and not till reduced to the last
+extremity of hunger and thirst. The poor emaciated creature was
+prevailed upon to remain for the present; but, having free access to the
+explorers' mutton, he grew tolerably fat in the course of a fortnight,
+when, with the usual gratitude of the barbarian, he turned his back upon
+his benefactors and took the way that pleased him best. The accounts of
+the interior which Sturt received from this and other aborigines he had
+previously encountered were disheartening in the extreme, and it was
+impossible to abstain from gloomy forebodings during this period of
+enforced incarceration. But whether they were to have any more
+travelling or not was becoming more and more a matter of bare
+probability. The herbage of the valley had become reduced to mere dust,
+and the water had diminished so ominously as to make it apparent that,
+unless rain fell within a month, the party would certainly find their
+graves in the Rocky Glen, as one of them had already done. But the
+future had better things in store, and did not longer withhold them. In
+one of those sudden changes so characteristic of the Australian climate
+the sky assumed its curtain of clouds and burst in a storm of rain,
+which deluged the valley. The roar of the rushing water, Sturt avers,
+was the sweetest music that ever fell upon his ear. That welcome
+thunderstorm was the key which opened the door of the prison and gave
+liberty to the captives.
+
+This happy release was followed by a period of successful
+travelling--not, indeed, void of difficulty, but yet without much of
+stirring incident. Another depôt was formed, which is well known under
+the name of the Park. Having enjoyed a short breathing time here, the
+expedition again proceeded eastward, and touched on the northern
+extremity of Lake Torrens. A survey of this part having been made, in
+accordance with special instructions, they returned to the Park Depôt,
+which was reached just twelve months after Sturt had left Adelaide. As
+time was thus rapidly passing away, he now resolved to put forth all his
+strength in a bold effort to reach the summit of his ambition and place
+his foot on the centre of Australia. Wishing to have as little
+encumbrance as possible, he divided his party, and, having picked three
+of the best men, started for the goal of his weary journeys, leaving the
+remainder in the depôt. Day after day this forlorn hope toiled on. Plain
+succeeded plain over a dreary expanse of interminable country, redeemed
+only by a series of parallel watercourses, which afforded a sufficient
+supply of that indispensable element. One important creek was crossed,
+but had to be abandoned, as it headed in a wrong direction. Happily, a
+sufficient compensation was found in the discovery of another creek,
+which they called the Eyre, after the adventurous explorer; and this
+godsend in the wilderness they were able to follow for a long distance.
+It was after they were compelled to leave it that they entered upon the
+stern realities of travel in the untrodden interior. The country now
+assumed an aspect so sterile and forbidding as to place it out of
+comparison with anything which Sturt, the discoverer of deserts, had
+previously witnessed. For a space of 20 miles nothing was found but a
+series of sand-ridges succeeding one another with the monotonous
+regularity of the waves of the sea. The fatigue which had to be endured
+in crossing this inhospitable tract was indescribable. It greatly
+weakened the strength of the party, and it was only the hope of soon
+meeting a change of country which lured them on. Nor was this
+expectation doomed to disappointment, for a change they met with at a
+moment's notice. All of a sudden the jaded explorers found a stony
+desert springing up beneath their feet and stretching away as far as the
+eye could reach, while it included within its ghastly embrace more than
+half the horizon. The suddenness of the appearance of this spectre of
+desolation struck them mute with surprise and horror. One of Sturt's
+attendants was the first to break the silence, which he did by raising
+his hands and exclaiming--"Good heavens! did ever man see such country?"
+Probably he never did. It is worse even than the African Sahara. It is
+beyond the power of words to describe it as it stands in its lone and
+dread reality. Sturt's Stony Desert is one unbroken expanse of
+desolation, a wilderness of red ferruginous sandstone, undergoing
+perpetual disintegration, constituting a natural ruin on a gigantic
+scale, without a single redeeming feature. Barrenness has marked this
+region for her own, and will ever hold it as a special possession. No
+life can subsist within its borders; the foot of the savage is not upon
+its wastes, and the whole region is still and silent as the grave. Such
+is the dark picture as drawn by the explorer himself. Happily a better
+acquaintance has led to a more favourable opinion; though the land of
+spinifex, it produces other vegetation of nutritive and even fattening
+properties. The Stony Desert proper consists of many patches, but
+probably none will be found to be very extensive. The stout hearts of
+the explorers quailed but for a moment. Be the consequence what it
+might, they determined to go forward, and the first night found them
+encamped in the desert without a drop of water. Their only hope of
+safety consisted in expeditious travel out of this scene of desolation.
+It was found to extend 50 miles, and when the party reached the other
+side, they were in a condition which can be more easily conceived than
+described. Here again they entered upon a similar belt of sand-ridges
+such as they had found flanking the Stony Desert on the other side.
+These, unhappily, were succeeded by another region of sand, utterly
+destitute of water. Their sufferings, which had formerly been great,
+were now intolerable. It became apparent that further progress was
+impracticable, and it was just a question whether retreat was
+possible--certainly it could not remain so much longer with such heat
+and drought as were then prevailing. The necessity of retreat was thus
+forced upon them, but it was a very painful one. They had now travelled
+more than 400 miles from the depôt (and such travelling!) and could they
+only have advanced another 150 miles they would have pitched their camp
+in the centre of Australia, the darling object of so many heroic
+sacrifices. Their reluctance to yield to this last dictate of necessity
+was extreme. A member of the expedition has pictured Sturt as he sat on
+one of the sand dunes with his face buried in his hands for a whole
+hour, while the struggle was going on in his own mind. It was not in
+nature, indeed, to yield without a mighty conflict. But inexorable
+necessity had to be obeyed notwithstanding, and thus valuable lives
+were saved. This was his second repulse from the centre of Australia.
+Nothing is more admirable in the character of Sturt than his magnanimity
+under adversity. However keenly he may have felt his disappointment, his
+mind retained its accustomed tranquillity, and during the retreat he
+went on laying down the bearings of his route for the guidance of others
+who might follow and obtain the palm he had been compelled to resign. He
+reached the depôt, where he had left the remainder of his party, on the
+2nd October, 1845, having been absent seven weeks and travelled more
+than 800 miles.
+
+After a short period of rest and refreshment this chivalrous explorer,
+who amid all his heavy misfortunes was certainly _tenax propositi_, to
+the surprise and regret of his party conceived the design of making one
+more attempt to reach the centre of Australia. He now determined on
+trying the line of the creek he had formerly discovered, and now called
+after Strzelecki, in the hope of its giving him sufficient northing to
+bring him within a practicable distance of the object for which the
+expedition had been sent. Strzelecki's Creek was found to answer his
+purpose so long as it lasted, and at its termination led to the
+discovery of another of much greater importance. To this new river Sturt
+gave the name of Cooper's Creek, after a distinguished South Australian
+judge. Unfortunately it flowed nearly east and west, and, therefore, had
+to be abandoned in the prosecution of a northern route. Leaving the
+plains which extended for some distance from the banks of Cooper's
+Creek, Sturt again encountered the ominous sand-ridges of which he had
+had sufficient experience on the former journey, and these being
+traversed, his hard fate again landed him on the edge of the Stony
+Desert. His destiny seemed ever mocking him with deserts, but this was
+the last he ever discovered. Having swept the unvarying horizon long and
+patiently with his telescope, and finding no break in the terrible
+monotony, he turned back for the third and last time from the effort to
+accomplish the dream of his life. After so many magnanimous sacrifices,
+he finally and for ever waived the palm of reaching the centre of the
+continent, which, sixteen years later, was won by a member of the same
+expedition, Mr. J. M'Douall Stuart, whose march to the coveted spot
+reads in comparison like a holiday excursion. The party now fell back
+upon Cooper's Creek, which was traced upwards for a considerable
+distance. It is a remarkable circumstance that Sir Thomas Mitchell was
+exploring its upper waters about the same time. But nothing could be
+more diverse than the two descriptions of the same stream. Mitchell's is
+quite _couleur de rose_, and Sturt's has probably been tinged with the
+effect of his own misfortunes. While the one gave it the name of
+Cooper's Creek, as already noticed, the other called it the Victoria,
+after the Queen. This was most unfortunate, as there is another Victoria
+River on the west coast. However, both designations are now generally
+superseded by the native name of Barcoo.
+
+It is unnecessary to enter into details respecting the homeward
+expedition. The outward track was followed as closely as possible to
+Laidley Ponds, and thence to Adelaide. The water was rapidly drying up,
+and the retreat had to be conducted like the forced marches of an army.
+The men were nearly all ill, more or less, and some of them, being
+unable to walk, had to be carried long distances. Latterly, the leader
+of the expedition seems to have been the chief sufferer. Long exposure
+to the glaring reflection of the sun on the sandy wastes had ruined his
+eyesight, and not long afterwards he became permanently blind. Even now
+his constitution was completely shattered, and he had to be laid on a
+bed of leaves and conveyed from the interior in a cart, from which
+sufferings he never fully recovered. Such was Charles Sturt, after
+fifteen months' wanderings in the deserts of our country; and henceforth
+this heroic and much-enduring man disappeared from the stage of
+Australian history, of which he had been long a distinguished ornament.
+He retired on a pension of £600 from the South Australian Legislature,
+and died at Cheltenham in 1869.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER VII.
+
+EYRE'S ADVENTUROUS JOURNEY ALONG THE GREAT AUSTRALIAN BIGHT.
+
+
+Edward John Eyre, the son of a Yorkshire clergyman, was born in the year
+1815. A youthful passion for the heroic led him to chose the military
+profession; but, having failed to obtain a commission, he turned his
+attention to the colonies, and came to Sydney in 1833, with the slender
+capital of £400. Part of this sum was spent in obtaining colonial
+experience, in which he graduated so high as to become the leader in a
+new Australian enterprise. The newly founded settlements of Port Phillip
+(subsequently Victoria) and South Australia had created a great demand
+for stock, all of which had hitherto been carried by sea, and, on
+reaching their destination, were sold at famine prices. Young Eyre
+conceived the practicability of an overland route, and proceeded to
+prove it to a demonstration. In the first of these journeys he took
+1,000 sheep and 600 head of cattle from the Monaro district, in New
+South Wales, to Adelaide, in South Australia, by way of the Murray
+River, and reaped a handsome pecuniary reward in the sale of the stock.
+Smaller men followed in the wake of this born adventurer, making
+overlanding the most paying game in Australia, till a glut was produced
+in the southern markets. Success having followed Eyre in the new path
+his enterprise had struck out, he was soon in possession of sufficient
+funds to begin squatting on his own account. He purchased the station
+"Murrundi," on the Lower Murray, where he resided for several years,
+acting also as magistrate and protector of the aborigines. Occasionally,
+too, he varied the monotony of bush life by feats of exploration into
+the unknown territory, thus keeping alive the spirit of adventure, and
+unconsciously qualifying himself for the romantic enterprise which will
+transmit his name to distant posterity.
+
+Up to the year 1840 Western Australia remained completely isolated from
+the other colonies, and could be approached only by sea. But as that
+country was now being extensively occupied, it was of great importance
+also to the settlers in the south to find an overland route from
+Adelaide, and it was believed the time had come when a successful effort
+could be made. The obstacles which barred the way were enormous, and for
+that epoch insuperable; but so little were they suspected by the South
+Australians that the proposed journey was regarded as a pleasure
+excursion, and it was considered advisable to lighten the expense of the
+expedition by sending over a quantity of stock with the pioneer
+explorers! The one man who could correct this public delusion was Mr.
+Eyre, for he knew enough of the outlying country to feel safe in
+predicting the failure of the proposed undertaking. By both speech and
+pen he laboured to oppose the misguided enthusiasm, and succeeded in
+preventing a certain waste of treasure and a very probable sacrifice of
+human life. But it was far from his desire to see so much ardour for
+exploration run to waste, and now that the colony was in high feather
+for discovery, Eyre made a successful effort to divert it into what he
+considered a more profitable channel. Very little was yet known of the
+country to the north. Why not strike out in this direction now, and make
+a bold attempt to reach the centre of Australia from the city of
+Adelaide? One argument alone was sufficient, and with it Eyre prevailed.
+He offered to be the leader of the expedition, providing one-third of
+its expense from his own pocket. Nothing remained now but to get on with
+the preparations.
+
+On the 20th of June, 1840, a well-provisioned party consisting of eight
+persons, with Eyre in command, supported by two other Europeans, Scott
+and Baxter, left Adelaide under favourable auspices, and in high hopes
+of exploring a large portion of the interior if more cherished results
+should prove unattainable; but, as the event proved, only to meet with
+crushing disappointment. Lake Torrens was as yet very imperfectly known,
+and Eyre, misled by refraction, conceived it to be an immense sheet of
+water in the shape of a horse-shoe, within the bend of which he supposed
+the expedition was being entrapped. The curve, in reality, was described
+by a chain of mud lakes partly covered with water, and partly encrusted
+with salt. Passages are now found, at intervals, between these mud
+lagoons, but Eyre had not the good luck to hit on one of them. Aroused
+by the energy of despair, he next determined to round this impenetrable
+barrier, and struck out to the eastward, for an isolated peak which he
+called Mount Hopeless. The name corresponded to the reality, for the
+outlook from its summit revealed nothing but a barren and burning
+desert, which forced the expedition to fall back by a western route to
+the southern coast.
+
+Headquarters now remained for some time at Streaky Bay, on the eastern
+shoulder of the Great Australian Bight. Taking a subdivision of the
+party, he again and again endeavoured to round the head of the Bight in
+the hope of finding better country, which would open a favourable route
+towards the interior. Here, too, his expectations were baffled in this
+latter respect, and even Eyre had to abandon his pet project in utter
+despair. But he was of too dauntless a temperament to brook the idea of
+returning to Adelaide without accomplishing something worthy of
+remembrance. His next move was competent only to a madman or a hero. It
+was a serious attempt to lead an expedition from the encampment on
+Fowler's Bay to King George's Sound, along the Great Australian Bight, a
+journey of more than 1,500 miles over the worst country under the sun.
+He proposed to proceed with his present party unbroken, if Governor
+Gawler would allow the government cutter to advance to Cape Arid, a sort
+of half-way station, and there await the expedition, with a supply of
+provisions. The Governor refused the use of the vessel in connection
+with so romantic a proposal, except for the purpose of bringing the
+entire party back to Adelaide, and so putting an end to what he must be
+excused for regarding as a mad freak. But Eyre was a man born to lead,
+not to be led, and determined to stick to his purpose, with help or
+without it. Yet, being conscious of the extreme peril that lay on the
+very face of the undertaking, he resolved to risk the sacrifice of no
+European's life but his own, and made preparations to send home Scott
+and Baxter in the cutter. Baxter, an old and faithful servant, who had
+been overseer on Eyre's station, persisted in clinging to his master,
+whether for life or death. And, alas! it was for the latter. The party,
+as thus reduced, consisted of only two white men and three black boys,
+one being an old favourite named Wylie. A few horses and sheep, together
+with a limited supply of provisions, made up the sum total of the
+expedition.
+
+Never before was an enterprise of such overwhelming difficulty engaged
+in by reasonable men. This section of the southern coast was yet
+scarcely known. The navigators Nuyts and Flinders had cruised over its
+waters, gazing with mysterious awe on its weather-beaten cliffs, rising
+to the precipitous height of 400 or even 600 feet above the water. At
+intervals along the base the waves had undermined this Titanic sea-wall,
+causing it to fall in many a yawning breach, the _debris_ of which
+completely obstructed the passage between the rocks and the sea in the
+few places where such a convenience might have been previously possible.
+The crown of these cliffs had not yet been trodden by the white man's
+foot, and the reports of the sparse aborigines were enough to freeze the
+ardour of the most adventurous in the heroic age of Australian
+exploration. On this border-land of earth and sea contending winds had
+deposited the dust particles borne on their wings, and rolled them
+together in heaps, to be met with at long and dreary intervals. These
+sand-hills, resting on a limestone formation, retained at their base a
+small supply of water, to be reached only by painstaking, and often
+painful, digging. For the greater part of the way no other water was to
+be found on this barren and inhospitable region of parched-up Australia.
+
+From Cape Adieu, where leave had been taken of the cutter and its
+passengers, to the first stage at the head of the Bight, the
+difficulties were manageable--for this part of the route had been
+traversed and supplies hidden for future use--but, this over, they had
+to be faced in all their appalling magnitude. The sand-hills were found
+to be so far apart that it was impossible to bring the stock from the
+one to the other without intermediate supply. When the sheep, and
+sometimes the horses, could travel no further, one or two of the parties
+had to be left in charge while others pushed forward in search of water,
+and then returned with what supply they could bring, when the animals
+were driven on to the station. The discouragements were infinite and the
+labour superhuman. Eyre alone was equal to the strain, and he owed it
+more to his indomitable spirit than to his natural strength. It was a
+sore trial to perceive even Baxter to be giving way and wishing to
+return; but as this seemed to threaten certain death, he kept to his
+resolution, and persevered against all hope of a successful issue, so
+desperate had the aspect of affairs now become. The few sheep having
+dwindled away with ominous rapidity, it had become necessary to kill
+several of the horses and eat them, although they furnished little but
+skin and bone. Matters having come to extremities, the baggage had to be
+reduced to the smallest proportions, and most of the valuables were
+thrown away in the wilderness to lighten the burden of carriage. Their
+sufferings from want of water now became indescribable. Man and beast
+were compelled to travel three or four days without getting a mouthful.
+With only one exception, none had been found but in the sand-hills for
+the distance of 800 miles, and how hard it was to reach it there has
+already been described. Even the dew on the sparse patches of grass was
+put in requisition, as may be learned from the following extract from
+the journal of the expedition:--"Leaving the overseer to search for the
+horses, which had strayed, I took a sponge and went to try to collect
+some of the dew which was hanging in spangles on the grass and shrubs.
+Brushing these with the sponge, I squeezed it, when saturated, into a
+quart-pot, which in an hour's time I filled with water. The native boys
+were occupied in the same way, and, by using a handful of fine grass
+instead of a sponge, they collected about a quart among them. Having
+taken the water to the camp and made it into tea, we divided it amongst
+the party, and never was a meal more truly relished, although we ate the
+last morsel of bread we had with us, and none knew when we might again
+enjoy either a drink of water or a mouthful of bread. We had now
+demonstrated the practicability of collecting water from the dew. I had
+often heard from the natives that they were in the habit of practising
+this plan, but had never before actually witnessed its adoption."
+
+But the climax was yet to come. To privations and difficulties the crime
+of treachery and murder was now to be added. Two of the blacks proved
+unfaithful, and shot the overseer, Baxter, in cold blood, apparently for
+the purpose of deserting with as much of the provisions as they could
+lay hands on, perhaps after the murder of the leader himself. The words
+in which Eyre describes the anguish of his situation exceed the highest
+efforts of tragedy, and show how fact may become stranger than fiction.
+"The night was cold, and the wind blowing hard from the south-west,
+whilst scud and nimbus were passing very rapidly by the moon. The horses
+fed tolerably well, but rambled a good deal, threading in and out among
+the many belts of scrub which intersected the grassy openings, until I
+scarcely knew exactly where our camp was, the fires having apparently
+expired some time ago. It was now half-past ten, and I headed the horses
+back in the direction in which I thought the camp lay, that I might be
+ready to call the overseer to relieve me at eleven. Whilst thus engaged
+and looking steadfastly around among the scrub to see if I could
+anywhere detect the embers of our fires, I was startled by a sudden
+flash, followed by the report of a gun, not a quarter of a mile away
+from me. Imagining that the overseer had mistaken the hour of the night,
+and not being able to find me or the horses had taken that method to
+attract my attention, I immediately called out, but no answer was
+returned. I got alarmed, and, leaving the horses, hurried up towards the
+camp as rapidly as I could. About a hundred yards from it I met the King
+George's Sound native (Wylie) running towards me, and in great haste and
+alarm, crying out, 'Oh, Massa! oh, Massa, come here!' but could gain no
+information from him as to what had occurred. Upon reaching the
+encampment, which I did in about five minutes after the shot was fired,
+I was horror-struck to find my poor overseer lying on the ground
+weltering in his blood, and in the last agonies of death. Glancing
+hastily around the camp, I found it deserted by the two younger native
+boys, whilst the scattered fragments of our baggage, which I left
+carefully piled under the oilskin, lay thrown about in wild disorder,
+and at once revealed the cause of the harrowing scene before me. Upon
+raising the body of my faithful but ill-fated follower, I found that he
+was beyond all human aid; he had been shot through the left breast with
+a ball; the last convulsions of death were upon him, and he expired
+almost immediately after our arrival. The frightful, the appalling truth
+now burst upon me that I was alone in the desert. He who had faithfully
+served me for many years, who had followed my fortunes in adversity and
+prosperity, who had accompanied me in all my wanderings, and whose
+attachment to me had been his sole inducement to remain with me in this
+last and, to him, alas! fatal journey, was now no more. For an instant,
+I was almost tempted to wish that it had been my fate instead of his.
+The horrors of my situation glared upon me in such startling reality as
+for an instant almost to paralyze the mind. At the dead hour of night,
+in the wildest and most inhospitable wastes of Australia, with the
+fierce wind raging in unison with the scene of violence before me, I was
+left with a single native, whose fidelity I could not rely upon, and who
+for aught I knew might be in league with the other two, who were perhaps
+even now lurking about with the view of taking away my life as they had
+done that of the overseer. Three days had passed away since we left the
+last water, and it was very doubtful when we might find any more. Six
+hundred miles of country had to be traversed before I could hope to
+obtain the slightest aid or assistance of any kind, whilst I knew not
+that a single drop of water or an ounce of flour had been left by these
+murderers from a stock that had previously been so small. Though years
+have now passed away since the enactment of this tragedy, the dreadful
+horrors of that time and scene are recalled before me with frightful
+vividness, and make me shudder when I think of them. A lifetime was
+crowded into those few short hours, and death alone may blot out the
+impression they produced."
+
+To give decent burial to the body of a friend whom death only could
+separate would have been a melancholy satisfaction, but even this slight
+tribute of affection was denied by the situation. No grave could be dug,
+for sheet-rock, stretching far and wide, formed the adamantine pavement
+of this horrible place. Wrapt in a blanket for its winding-sheet, the
+corpse was left in this lonely wilderness, where it lay undisturbed till
+it was stumbled on quite recently by the district mailman. On a calmer
+view of the position, Eyre discovered that the ruffians had left him
+only forty pounds of flour, a little tea and sugar, and four gallons of
+water. Such was the provision for two men against a journey of 600
+miles! Nothing, however, could be gained by delay in this awful scene,
+and every consideration counselled an immediate departure--most of all,
+the knowledge that the two murderers were skulking in the neighbourhood
+with the probable design of taking Eyre's life. A start was made without
+further loss of time. Another horse was killed for food, but the animal
+having been poor and sickly, its flesh did not agree with them, and ill
+health supervened. When thus brought face to face with the last
+extremity, a sudden vision of deliverance nearly overwhelmed them with
+joy. Coming unexpectedly on an opening in the Bight, first a boat and
+then a ship at anchor rushed upon the view. A closer acquaintance proved
+the apparition to be a French whaling-vessel, under the command of
+Captain Rossiter, whose name is fittingly perpetuated in the same little
+bay. The unlooked-for visitors were hospitably entertained and lodged
+for twelve days in the ship, till they were sufficiently recruited for
+the remainder of the journey. With renewed strength, and a fresh supply
+of provisions, the march through the desert was once more resumed, for
+the indomitable explorer would not even yet abandon the project. Though
+hardship had now lost its sting, more difficulties had yet to be
+encountered than might have been expected, but they were of a different
+kind from the preceding. Water became only too plentiful, for a wet
+season had set in, and the travellers had often to wade rather than to
+walk. But the end of this terrible journey drew on apace. To their
+unspeakable joy the mountains on the further side of King George's Sound
+began to loom in the distance, and Wylie, who was a native of that
+district, now for the first time showed some confidence in his leader,
+whom he never expected to bring him back to his home. The welcome sight,
+in truth, inspired both the black and the white man with fresh life; for
+they had to make only one more effort, and, this over, their weary feet
+found rest in the hospitable settlement of Albany. The heroic endurance
+displayed during this journey stands without a parallel in history, but
+it led to nothing but a barren triumph over stupendous difficulties. Had
+Eyre kept further inland he would have found a better route and opened
+up a more profitable country. This discovery had to wait for another and
+more fortunate explorer. The present expedition, by hugging the shore,
+travelled over a tract of country that was seen to be utterly useless
+for the wants of civilization. So patent was this fact to Mr. Eyre
+himself that he justified the publication of his narrative by the
+strange argument that no one had traversed this wilderness before and he
+was perfectly sure none would ever do it again.
+
+Henceforward Edward John Eyre was known to fame--but not to fortune.
+Being subsequently appointed Governor of Jamaica, he fell heir to an
+upheaval of disorder, which culminated in open rebellion. This
+insurrection Eyre put down with an iron hand. Some accused him of
+needless severity, while others justified his conduct as an act of
+imperative necessity. The hero-worshipper, the late Thomas Carlyle,
+defended him bravely, and was seconded by many sympathizers of less
+note, who came to the rescue with pen and purse. This perilous journey
+of former years was justly pleaded in Mr. Eyre's favour, but his friends
+weakened their case by confounding the Great Australian Bight with the
+Gulf of Carpentaria! Though exonerated by a commission of inquiry, the
+Governor was recalled, and for four years thereafter harassed by a
+bitter prosecution, which he probably found harder to endure than his
+terrible journey on the Great Australian Bight.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER VIII.
+
+SIR THOMAS MITCHELL'S FOUR EXPEDITIONS.
+
+
+This eminent explorer was a native of Scotland, having been born at
+Craigend, Stirlingshire, in 1792. He chose the army for his profession,
+and served under Wellington, in the Peninsular war, from 1808 till its
+close. His career appears to have been a most creditable one. He had a
+hand in laying out the famous Torres Vedras lines, which gave a fatal
+check to the ambition of Napoleon. Mitchell left the service with the
+rank of Major, receiving also a medal and five clasps. Having emigrated
+to New South Wales, he was appointed Surveyor-General, an office which
+had fallen vacant by the death of Mr. John Oxley. Being an active and
+adventurous man, he threw himself, heart and soul, into the cause of
+exploration. Mitchell was the most successful of all the explorers, and
+had the good fortune to open up the magnificent territory which now
+forms the colony of Victoria. He was the leader of four great
+expeditions, which shall now be briefly related in the order of their
+occurrence.
+
+
+I.
+
+Among the notabilities of the old convict days there are not many who
+will be longer remembered than George Clarke, better known, in his own
+time, as "George the Barber." This runaway convict having taken to
+bushranging and cattle-stealing as naturally as the duck makes for the
+water, had also shown himself an adept in the arts which elude the
+detective. Passing beyond the bounds of settlement, which had now
+extended 300 miles to the north of Sydney, he fixed his headquarters and
+erected a stockyard for stolen cattle on the further side of the
+Liverpool Plains. Here he abjured the last vestige of civilization and
+associated himself with the aborigines, having become a conformist in
+the first degree. He doffed every article of clothing, blackened his
+skin, and even scarified his flesh, in order to appear a naked savage
+pure and simple. But the compliment does not seem to have been
+reciprocated. He was successful, indeed, in gaining the hearts of two
+black gins, who followed him and his fortunes as far as fate would
+permit; but the sable brotherhood did not take kindly to the intruder.
+Hearing he was wanted by the police to answer for his cattle-stealing
+propensities, they lent a hand to the progress of civilization, and
+delivered up this spurious brother, who was forthwith lodged in Bathurst
+gaol. Of all the men in the world this runaway convict, who had enjoyed
+the sweets of liberty, both in the savage and the civilized life, would
+be the last to brook the restraints of confinement, and it is no
+surprise to find him casting about for the means of deliverance. The
+most feasible way of accomplishing his object undoubtedly lay in the
+plan which his native cunning led him to adopt. Popular excitement was
+then at fever heat on the exploration of the unknown territory. Sturt
+had recently returned from an expedition in which he had opened up more
+than 2,000 miles of country on the lower Murrumbidgee and Murray rivers,
+and had, consequently, given a great impulse to the exploring
+enterprise. Now was the time for "George the Barber" to tell his secret
+from Bathurst gaol. Having passed beyond a range of mountains to the
+northward of the Liverpool Plains, so his story ran, he had discovered a
+magnificent river which the natives called the "Kindur." It traversed a
+splendid country, was itself navigable throughout, and having followed
+its course on two different occasions, it led him through the heart of
+Australia to the north coast, without ever turning to the south. Men
+readily believe what they wish to be true, and such a river as here
+described was the very thing wanted in order to open up a waterway to
+Carpentaria. The story accordingly commanded general attention, and most
+people believed it contained a sufficient degree of verisimilitude to
+warrant the expense of a special exploring expedition to put it to the
+proof.
+
+Major Mitchell was now in the place where he would feel the impulse for
+exploration with all its force, and so fell in most heartily with the
+popular excitement. Putting the most favourable construction upon the
+"Barber's" story, and believing that it contained, at least, a
+substratum of truth, he expressed his readiness to go in search of the
+"Kindur," provided the Acting-Governor, Sir Patrick Lindsay, would
+supply the necessary outfit. This request was readily granted, and Major
+Mitchell left Sydney on the 24th November, 1831, to run a wild-goose
+chase or make a great discovery. It was not necessary to organize the
+expedition before starting, as the country was now settled so far to the
+north, and final arrangements were accordingly postponed till a nearer
+approach was made to the unknown land. The early part of the journey was
+pretty much in the style of a pleasure excursion. The would-be explorer
+of the "Kindur" passed northward to Parramatta, where he was shown, as a
+great novelty, the first olive-tree planted in the colony. The
+Hawkesbury was crossed at Wiseman's Ferry, and in due course the
+Wollombi, a tributary of the Hunter, was reached. Soon after he
+proceeded to make up his party, which, when completed, consisted of two
+gentlemen volunteers, named White and Finch, and fifteen convicts, all
+of whom, the leader avers, were ready to face fire and water in the hope
+of regaining that liberty which they had forfeited by transgressing the
+laws of their country. The expedition having been thus organized and
+supplied with every requisite, moved northward, passing near
+Muswellbrook, and crossing the Hunter without meeting with anything
+particularly worthy of notice, until they came upon the burning hill of
+Wingen, which attracted their attention as a remarkable curiosity. It is
+not a volcano, but a mountain of coal or shale, on fire underneath,
+which sends forth volumes of smoke through the rents in its surface. On
+the 5th of December the ascent of the Liverpool Range was gained and a
+commanding view of the plains obtained. This fine tract of country had
+been discovered by Oxley, explored by Cunningham, and was now found to
+be largely occupied by pioneer squatters. The Peel River was struck at
+Wallamoul, about two miles above the spot where Oxley had first crossed
+it, and here was found the last station, owned by a squatter of the name
+of Brown, and containing 1,600 head of cattle. The route of the
+expedition was now directed towards the lower course of the river, where
+it becomes known under the native name of the Namoi. The euphonious
+"Namoi" was music to the ear of Mitchell, for the bushranger had spoken
+of a river of this name, and was the first to make it known under this
+designation. The Major was gratified to find this slight confirmation of
+the story that had brought him so far from home, and hastened to make it
+known to the authorities in Sydney, that "George the Barber" might have
+the benefit; and a real benefit it was, for it saved him from the
+gallows. Having failed to obtain his liberty when his information was
+acted on, this noted criminal, in his desperation, succeeded in sawing
+the irons off his feet, and in this way made good his escape from
+incarceration. But the law has long arms, and the "Barber," being again
+clutched within their iron grasp, was condemned to suffer the last
+penalty, from which doom he was saved by the timely arrival of
+Mitchell's letter.
+
+The _terra incognita_ now was entered upon, and the first object that
+drew the attention of the explorers was the old stockyard of the
+bushranger, which, doubtless, was too near a neighbour of Brown's cattle
+station. About two miles distant the Pic of Tangulda rose to a
+conspicuous elevation. This was one of the landmarks of the prisoner's
+tale. The "Kindur" was to be reached by proceeding north-east, over a
+range of mountains which were visible from this position. Mitchell
+directed his march accordingly; but, after several days of distressing
+travel, found the mountains to be impracticable, and was compelled to
+return to his former camp. Now, for the first time, grave doubts began
+to fill his mind regarding the truth of the convict's story. No other
+course being open, he determined on launching a canvas boat and making
+an effort to sail down the Namoi, to see what fortune had in store for
+him. The attempt was scarcely well made when it had to be abandoned, on
+account of snags and shoals in the stream; but the change of position
+was sufficient to make it apparent that the mountain-chain which could
+not be crossed might now be turned. This achievement was next
+successfully accomplished, and Mitchell at length found himself on their
+northern flanks. These mountains bore the native name of "Nundawar,"
+and, in respect of their outward appearance, had been described
+sufficiently well by the bushranger. But now came the crucial test of
+his truth or falsehood. According to the same story the "Kindur" was the
+first river to be reached beyond these mountains, and, one way or other,
+the question could not now have long to wait for an answer. A river of
+some kind was the very thing wanted by the explorers, for they had
+passed through a rugged and waterless country. Were they now, at last,
+to drop upon the "Kindur?" Such a discovery would have been doubly
+welcome, for it would have relieved them from present distress, and
+proved the goal of a journey which, it was hoped, would place the laurel
+crown on the brow of the Major and sound the trumpet of freedom to his
+fifteen convict attendants. The 9th of January arrived, and this day was
+destined to feast the eyes of the weary travellers with the sudden
+appearance of a noble river, broader and deeper than the Namoi, and one
+of which Australia might well be proud. Was this the "Kindur" at last?
+Not for a moment. It flowed in the wrong direction, and lost much of its
+volume in its downward course; and Mitchell soon satisfied himself that
+it was nothing else than one of the many tributaries of the Darling. In
+fact, it had not the merit of an original discovery. This was the
+Gwydir, which had been crossed long ago by Allan Cunningham. Mitchell
+turned from it in disgust and made for the north, in the hope of hitting
+upon some discovery really worthy of the expedition. He was rewarded, in
+so far that he discovered an important river, called the Karaula by the
+natives, but now better known as the Macintyre. Further exploration
+proved this stream to be one of the head-waters of the Darling, and,
+therefore, useless for the purpose of one who was seeking a
+water-channel to the Gulf of Carpentaria.
+
+Mitchell's only hope of retrieving himself now lay in crossing the
+Darling, and making an inroad upon the interior; but the feasibility of
+this course was suspended on a doubtful contingency. Fearing his
+provisions would not hold out so long as would be necessary, he had,
+before leaving the Peel River, sent Finch back to the Hunter district
+for fresh supplies, and the future of the expedition depended on this
+forlorn hope. Finch returned about the time expected, but only to bring
+a tale of disaster instead of a supply of provisions. All had gone well
+till they had got beyond the Liverpool Plains, when water began to fail
+them. Finch had gone on to search the country in advance, and on
+returning found his party murdered and the camp sacked. This was a
+crowning calamity. Mitchell, of course, now saw that it would be
+impossible to proceed further, and it was even very doubtful whether
+they could return in safety. A wet season was setting in, and 200 miles
+of flooded country lay between them and their homes. Their return,
+accordingly, was conducted after the manner of a retreating army, and
+the similitude was all the more striking because they were harassed by
+hostile tribes of aborigines. But the settled districts were soon
+reached, and there was no further difficulty in making Port Jackson. It
+was, indeed, a disappointment to the authorities, as it had been to
+Mitchell, to find they had been duped by "George the Barber." Yet the
+expedition had opened up a vast extent of pastoral country, and on the
+whole was fairly successful as an exploring enterprise.
+
+
+II.
+
+Major Mitchell, full of enterprise, was again in the field of discovery
+in 1835. His failure in the affair of the "Kindur" had not discouraged
+him, and the experience incidentally gained was an excellent preparation
+for the more arduous work of the future. Public attention had again
+turned from the north to the westward of the colony, and another attempt
+was to be made to lift the veil which still shrouded so much of the
+interior. At the request of the British Government, Mitchell willingly
+undertook the conduct of an expedition to the Bogan and the Darling, in
+order to set at rest some geographical problems which were still
+attached to the course of these rivers.
+
+More than any of the other explorers, Mitchell believed in large and
+liberally equipped expeditions, here probably erring by excess, and he
+resolved that the present should not be deficient in either respect. The
+party, all told, consisted of twenty-four persons--Major Mitchell as
+leader, Richard Cunningham, brother to the more celebrated Allan
+Cunningham, botanist and explorer, a young surveyor of the name of
+Larmer, and twenty-one convict servants, nine of whom had been
+connected with the "Kindur" search. The material resources consisted of
+two boats, several drays, a good contingent of horses, bullocks, and
+sheep, together with an ample supply of provisions. The start was made
+from Parramatta on the 9th of March; but the work of exploration proper
+did not commence till they reached Buree, a frontier station near Mount
+Canobolas, about 170 miles from Sydney.
+
+Having taken his observations from the summit of this mountain, Mitchell
+fixed his direction on the bearing of 60° west of north, judging he
+would thus find a practicable route, and strike the Bogan somewhere in
+its upper course. The result answered his expectation. On the 13th of
+April he crossed the Goobang, a tributary of the Lachlan, and in two
+days more the Bogan was reached. Here a most lamentable event occurred,
+which cast its dark shadow over the whole of their future wanderings.
+Richard Cunningham, the botanist of the expedition, had been too much in
+the practice of leaving the party for the "pursuit of flora," and now
+failed to find his way back to the camp. For a long time no trace of the
+missing man could be found; but after a most diligent search tracks both
+of himself and of his horse were observed. These were followed for 70
+miles, but to no purpose; distressing suspicions also began to arise,
+pointing to foul play on the part of the natives. But nothing definite
+could be arrived at, and after a fortnight's fruitless searching and
+tracking, the expedition was sorrowfully compelled to hold on its
+course. Subsequently it was decisively ascertained that Cunningham,
+ready to perish of hunger and thirst, had sought refuge with the blacks,
+by four of whom he was savagely murdered in his sleep. A full
+investigation was made by Captain Zouch, who had been despatched from
+Sydney on this business. He succeeded in discovering the dead man's
+bones, which were decently interred, and a suitable monument was erected
+on the scene of this diabolical murder. Three of the perpetrators of the
+crime were also arrested; but, through the remissness of the constable
+in charge, two of them managed to escape.
+
+The explorers still kept the line of the Bogan, moving off and on to its
+banks according as the want of water, or the desire to cut off an
+observed elbow, more particularly directed their course. By the 20th of
+May the expedition had arrived at the Pink Hills, where the best grazing
+land was met with since the commencement of the journey. From this point
+Oxley's Table-land, a well-known landmark with former explorers, was
+plainly visible. On the 25th they were gratified by the discovery of the
+junction of the Bogan and the Darling rivers. The former of these,
+though only now brought into prominent notice, had been known to exist
+for many years past. It was first discovered by Hamilton Hume in
+connection with Sturt's expedition to the Macquarie, and was then called
+New Year's Creek. Much later its upper course had been traced by a Mr.
+Dixon for 67 miles, and the exploration of its whole length was thus
+completed by Major Mitchell in 1835. The Bogan was found to head from
+the Hervey Range, and this explorer had the good fortune to discover its
+termination in the Darling River after a sinuous course of 250 miles. At
+best it is only a third or fourth-class river; but, as it traverses a
+tolerably good grazing country, its basin has become fully occupied for
+squatting purposes.
+
+The junction of these two rivers now became an important landmark for
+the remainder of the journey, and the place has ever since played a
+conspicuous part in the opening up and settlement of the back country.
+The position consists of an elevated plateau overlooking a reach of the
+river a mile and a half in length, with a hill situated near a sharp
+turn at the lower end of the reach. Having now travelled 500 miles from
+Sydney, the whole party were in need of rest, and Mitchell wisely
+resolved on fixing a permanent depôt here. Intending to leave some of
+his men while engaged in the exploration of the lower course of the
+river, he considered it an act of prudence to enclose the depôt with a
+stockade, as he was not yet sufficiently acquainted with the natives of
+the Darling to trust them with any degree of confidence. A stockade was
+accordingly constructed of rough logs, and to this, his first attempt at
+bush fortification, he gave the name of Fort Bourke, in compliment to
+the Governor of the colony. Such was the beginning of Bourke, the now
+famous centre of our back country settlement, and the present terminus
+of the Great Western Railway of New South Wales.
+
+Two boats, as already noticed, had been brought all the way from Sydney
+as part of the furniture of the expedition, and the time seemed to have
+arrived for their being turned to account. Being found to be in perfect
+order they were forthwith christened the _Discovery_ and the
+_Resolution_, and launched on the feeble current of the Darling. But
+hope was excited to no purpose. The stream was too low and the channel
+too much impeded to permit of navigation even with the smallest craft,
+and the undertaking was no sooner initiated than it had to be abandoned.
+The former plan of the expedition had again to be adopted, and the
+progress on the Darling was very similar to what it had been on the
+Bogan. The country traversed was found to be inferior as a whole, only
+moderately valuable for pastoral purposes, and nowhere adapted for
+agriculture to any considerable extent. The incidents in this part of
+the march were neither numerous nor striking. The usual privations
+arising from want of water were hardly known, as the explorers were
+never far from the banks of a running stream which takes rank among the
+foremost in Australia. The saltness of the Darling, which proved such an
+inconvenience to Sturt, was found by Mitchell to exist in a much less
+degree, which shows that it must have arisen in part from temporary
+causes.
+
+If Mitchell's narrative is not so rich in thrilling incidents as a
+sensational reader could have wished, it is especially valuable as a
+record of the manners and customs of the aborigines of those districts,
+as they appeared to the eye of this intelligent and observant traveller.
+Sometimes the description is so life-like that we are almost cheated
+into the belief of a visible reality, and it is impossible to be
+indifferent to the exhibition, although the whole race has now well-nigh
+passed away. The account is very generally the reverse of Captain
+Sturt's, notwithstanding that both of these eminent explorers must have
+had in view substantially the same tribes. The judicious reader will
+scarcely be disposed to agree unreservedly with the Captain when he
+depicts them as the "most miserable wretches" under the sun; neither
+will he care to subscribe to the unqualified language of the Major, who
+describes them as "happy" savages. Truth seldom lies in extremes, and it
+is to the utmost extreme that these authorities have gone, each in his
+own way, as determined largely, perhaps, by his idiosyncrasies. But the
+ethnologist, in particular, will be thankful for the literary photograph
+of these vanishing tribes which has been preserved in the pages of this
+journal. The general reader, too, will gladly observe some curious
+incidents of aboriginal life in the interior of Australia. Mitchell
+specially notices their adroitness in procuring the wild honey of the
+bush. With great tact they first attached a piece of light down to the
+bee, which, on being released, would be sure to make straight for its
+nest. To discover this secret, the blackfellow engaged in hot pursuit;
+and, as his eye must be constantly on the tiny insect, there would, of
+course, be frequent tripping, and many an awkward fall on mother earth,
+but the excitement was too great to permit of anything short of a
+serious accident being noticed. Another characteristic of the untutored
+savages was their unwillingness to recognize the right of a white man to
+hold property--it was all _meum_ and no _tuum_ with them. For a while
+Mitchell tried to satisfy them with liberal gifts, but giving only
+increased the craving for more; and, what was worse, this liberality on
+the part of the strangers began to be construed as an indication of
+fear, and then the demands were more impudently pressed than ever, which
+caused these gifts, very properly, to cease altogether. And now their
+thieving propensities broke out beyond all bounds. Mitchell, like Apollo
+when Mercury filched his bow, hardly knew whether to smile at the
+adroitness of the thief or wax indignant at the loss of his property.
+The cunning, craft, and success of these barbarians went almost beyond
+credence. Not only their hands were busy, but their very feet and toes
+picked up the strangers' tools as they walked over them. This latter
+practice was considered a real accomplishment, and these savages seemed
+to have a genuine contempt for the clumsy white-fellows who could not
+use their "feet fingers." Barring this troublesome propensity, the
+native tribes did not cause much inconvenience to the expedition until
+it got as far down the Darling as the Menindie quarter, where a serious
+embroglio occurred, which occasioned the shedding of aboriginal blood,
+and compelled the explorers to desist from the further prosecution of
+their journey. For this untoward event, however, Mitchell was not to
+blame, and he regretted he had to deal with convicts who were so
+difficult to control. The local tribes having thus become exasperated, a
+somewhat hasty retreat had to be made to the central depôt at Bourke,
+after 300 miles of the Darling had been traversed, and little doubt
+being left as to the remainder of the course till the junction with the
+Murray.
+
+
+III.
+
+The exploration and settlement of Victoria are quite recent events in
+the history of Australia. Important discoveries had been made on the
+seaboard by Bass and Flinders in the close of the last and the beginning
+of the present century; but they had no effect in attracting population.
+Hume and Hovell made an overland journey from Lake George to Port
+Phillip in 1824, and brought to light an enormous extent of fine
+territory near the southern coast; yet the country remained unvisited by
+civilization for another ten or twelve years. The original settlers came
+from Tasmania, and were crowded out of the old rather than attracted to
+the new home. The first arrival seems to have been Edward Henty, who
+effected a settlement at Portland Bay in 1834. Next year John Batman, a
+native of Parramatta, who had latterly resided in Tasmania, crossed
+Bass' Strait, and fixed his headquarters on Indented Head. He bargained
+with the natives for 600,000 acres of the best land in exchange for a
+few blankets, knives, and such-like commodities. He was followed in
+three months' time by another of the name of Fawkner, who, leaving "King
+John" in undisputed possession of Indented Head, pitched his tent on the
+site of the present city of Melbourne.
+
+So much and nothing more was accomplished in the settlement of the
+premier part of Australia, when Major Mitchell crossed the Murray, and
+astonished the world by a series of splendid discoveries in what is now
+the famous colony of Victoria. The surprise was the more telling on this
+account, that the revelations resulted from a mere accident, and were
+aside from the proper object of the expedition. The explorations of
+Mitchell during the preceding year, which had so largely supplemented
+the earlier discoveries of Sturt on the Darling, very naturally excited
+public interest, and created a desire for another expedition. The River
+Darling was now pretty well known, with the exception of about 200 miles
+from Menindie to the junction with the Murray; but this latter river was
+not yet explored higher up than its confluence with the Murrumbidgee.
+These two objects being now to be prosecuted, instructions were given to
+Major Mitchell to organize another expedition; and into this project, it
+is needless to say, the gallant Major entered with his accustomed
+enthusiasm.
+
+This expedition, numbering twenty-four persons, amply provisioned, and
+destined to be the most fortunate in the annals of exploration, left the
+rendezvous near Mount Canobolas, on the outskirts of settlement, on the
+17th of March, 1836. The first movement was made towards the old
+position at the station of Buree, and then the route was followed to the
+Lachlan. This river, as well as the Murrumbidgee, which was reached on
+its lower course, had previously been explored, and Mitchell had not
+much to add that was new or striking. When he conceived he was
+approaching the junction with the Murray, a depôt was formed beside an
+excellent sheet of water, to which the name of Lake Stapylton was given.
+Mitchell now divided his party, and, taking an escort, struck out boldly
+for the Darling, which was still 100 miles distant. The usual
+difficulties of this kind of travelling were encountered; but no one
+knew better how to overcome them than this intrepid explorer. The
+junction of the two chief rivers of Australia was reached without loss
+of time--a position which Mitchell says he recognized at once from a
+drawing of Captain Sturt's. This compliment Sturt duly acknowledged,
+remarking at the same time that it was the only praise he had ever
+received from Sir Thomas Mitchell, and he was afraid in this case it was
+not very well deserved, as the drawing had been made from a verbal
+description, and by an Edinburgh clergyman who had never visited
+Australia! The expedition was in great danger here from an exasperated
+tribe of blacks who kept hanging upon the rear, and only waited for an
+opportunity to strike a decisive blow. The aspect of matters was so
+threatening that Mitchell resolved to abandon the Darling, and fall back
+upon his alternative instructions, which directed him to explore the
+upper courses of the Murray. But the hostile tribe was now between his
+own party and the depôt, which was 100 miles away. Their number was
+rapidly increasing, and their attitude growing more menacing every day.
+A conflict could not be much longer averted, and Mitchell, as a military
+man, was not willing to allow the enemy to choose the most suitable time
+for the attack. The men under his command appear to have understood his
+intentions, and, without waiting for orders, fired upon the tribe. Seven
+were killed, and the multitude dispersed. It was a severe remedy, but
+also a very effectual one, for this tribe never attempted to cause them
+further annoyance.
+
+On arriving at Lake Stapylton, Mitchell had the satisfaction of finding
+that the depôt had been unmolested, a circumstance which relieved his
+mind from considerable anxiety. The situation of the depôt was
+ascertained to be about ten miles from the junction of the Murrumbidgee
+with the Murray. The latter was crossed about a mile higher up, and the
+united expedition started again with the intention of exploring this
+interesting but unknown river. From this purpose they were soon diverted
+by the discovery of an important tributary, which seemed to lead them
+into a better country than the Murray was likely to do. After losing or
+leaving this creek another was discovered, of still greater importance,
+to which Mitchell gave the name of the Loddon, from the marked
+resemblance he thought it possessed to its namesake in the old home. The
+country consisted of open downs, and was the richest Mitchell had seen
+since he had left Sydney. The plains were covered with anthistirium, or
+kangaroo grass, which bent under the breeze like a field of oats. The
+country was so lightly timbered that the explorers could scarcely find
+fuel to make a fire at several of their places of encampment. This
+district also yielded many new and beautiful plants, which greatly
+enriched the botanical collection. Mitchell next ascended Mount Hope, a
+peak which he so named because he expected to obtain a view of the
+southern ocean from its summit. This anticipation was not realized, but
+he enjoyed the prospect of an unlimited reach of the class of country he
+had already discovered. Another hill, called the Pyramid, from its
+peculiar form, afforded also an excellent view, and raised in Mitchell a
+transport of joy. He could scarcely find words to describe the
+magnificence of the scene, or express the delight he felt on account of
+his own good fortune. "The scene," says he, "was different from anything
+I had ever before witnessed, either in New South Wales, or elsewhere--a
+land so inviting, and still without inhabitants. As I stood, the first
+intruder on the sublime solitude of these verdant plains, as yet
+untouched by flocks or herds, I felt conscious of being the harbinger of
+many changes there; for our steps would soon be followed by the men and
+the animals for which it seemed to be prepared." And again--"We had at
+length discovered a country ready for the immediate reception of
+civilized man, and fit to become eventually one of the great nations of
+the earth. Unencumbered with too much wood, yet possessing enough for
+all purposes; with an exuberant soil under a temperate climate; bounded
+by the sea-coast and mighty rivers, and watered abundantly by streams
+from lofty mountains, this highly interesting region lay before me, with
+all its features new and untouched as they fell from the hands of the
+Creator. Of this Eden it seemed I was the only Adam; and it was indeed a
+sort of paradise to me, permitted thus to be the first to explore its
+mountains and streams--to behold its scenery--to investigate its
+geological character--and finally, by my survey, to develop those
+natural advantages all still unknown to the civilized world, but yet
+certain to become at no distant date of vast importance to a new
+people." No prophet ever spoke truer words than these.
+
+Soon after the Loddon, the Avoca and the Avon Water were discovered.
+These streams irrigated the same kind of country as that which had
+lately been traversed. This tract was evidently an exception to a rule
+which prevails throughout Australia. Good land is usually poorly
+supplied with water, while well-watered country is generally of little
+account in point of fertility; but here for once was a district which
+was equally distinguished for the abundance of its streams and the
+excellence of its soil. The explorers now took a direction more to the
+eastward, to reach a lofty mountain-chain which appeared to be about 40
+miles distant. This range forms a division between the northern and the
+southern waters, and is really the extremity of the coast range.
+Mitchell called these the Grampians, from a supposed resemblance to a
+chain of the same name in the Southern Highlands of Scotland. Taking two
+of his best men, he next ascended Mount William, a peak which rises
+4,500 feet above the sea and is the highest in the group. The weather
+being unfavourable to the object in view, it was found necessary to
+spend a miserably cold night upon its summit, and the exposure
+permanently injured the health of his two companions, who had followed
+the explorer on three expeditions. An excellent view was obtained at
+last, and another great landmark, Mount Arapiles, was fixed upon as the
+next object toward which they were to move. This was a bold and isolated
+mountain lying westward of the range. Five streams had to be crossed in
+passing over the intermediate tract, and these were subsequently found
+to unite and form the Wimmera. It was hoped this important river would
+lead them to the ocean, but it turned to the northward and flowed into
+the interior. The tract of country next discovered presented a very
+singular aspect. The surface, as far as the eye could reach, was studded
+with lakes, which differed greatly in size, but were circular in form.
+Their number must have been prodigious; from one point of view no fewer
+than twenty-seven were counted. Most of these circular lakes were
+brackish to the taste, and many too salt to be fit for use.
+
+The extremity of the Grampians had now been reached, and the range was
+being successfully turned, when the explorers saw before them a fine
+open country, trending away towards the Southern Ocean. The travelling
+was often heavy on the soft soil, and they had to be satisfied with six
+miles a day as the average rate of progress; nevertheless, the object in
+view was being steadily accomplished, and no country was ever traversed
+which was richer in the charming incidents of travel. July the 31st was
+a red-letter day for Mitchell, for it brought the welcome discovery of a
+fine river, which led the party to the breakers of the Southern Ocean.
+Its width was 120 feet, with an average depth of 12 feet, and from first
+to last it continued to flow through the most picturesque scenery. The
+discoverer gave it the name of the Glenelg, in compliment to the
+Secretary of State for the Colonies. The track of the expedition kept as
+closely as possible to the left bank of the river, which with many
+windings was found to be steadily making southward. One of the most
+remarkable features of the Glenelg is the number of feeders which it
+receives from both sides of its basin. These occasionally flowed through
+deep ravines, which made travelling difficult for the drays. But the
+scenery is described as being exquisite. Mitchell put the English
+language on the rack to make it express his conception of the lovely
+scenes which daily met his eye. Either of the valleys of the Wando or
+the Wannon might well pass for a modern Tempe. On the 12th of August the
+Rifle Range was reached, and from one of the heights Mount Gambier, near
+Cape Northumberland, was plainly seen, and this was accepted as
+sufficient evidence that the sea could not be very far distant. After
+receiving another tributary, which was named the Stokes, the river,
+affected also by the proximity to the ocean, became so much increased in
+size as to induce Mitchell to launch the boat which had been brought
+from Sydney. A depôt was accordingly formed at this position which was
+called Fort O'Hare. Mitchell took two-thirds of his men, and, after a
+few days' pleasant sail, landed safely at the mouth of the Glenelg.
+
+Before returning to Sydney it was thought advisable to make a short
+journey to Portland Bay, for the sake of examining the intervening
+country. In this excursion various streams were discovered and crossed,
+such as the Crawford, the Fitzroy, and the Surrey; and the prominent
+peaks, Ellerslie, Clay, and Kincaid, were ascended or sighted. The
+country generally was swampy in the flats, and poor in the higher
+grounds, until Portland was reached, where the soil was found to be of
+the best possible description. Here a great surprise was in store for
+the explorers. They had stumbled by mere chance on the newly-formed
+station of Edward Henty, from Tasmania, who generously supplied them
+with provisions for the homeward journey.
+
+Going still forward, Mitchell kept for a considerable time on the
+southern fall of the range, in the hope of finding a pass which would be
+generally available. Such an opening he was fortunate enough to
+discover, near the foot of Mount Byng, which he safely passed through,
+barring an accident to his travelling gear. While this was being
+repaired, he made an excursion to a prominent height about 30 miles to
+the south, in the hope of being able to catch a glimpse of Port Phillip,
+and thus enable him to connect his surveys with this important position.
+To this height he gave the name of Mount Macedon, and from its summit
+was able to observe some of the topographical features of what is now
+the site, or the immediate neighbourhood, of Melbourne, and also white
+sails or tents, which most likely were the encampments of Batman and
+Fawkner, who had been in their new home only a few months.
+
+In returning, the Campaspe River was discovered, and other tributaries
+of the Murray, made known by Hume and Hovell, were crossed without
+difficulty. The most serious obstacle was the passage of the Murray; but
+it was passed without accident or mishap, although it was 80 yards in
+width. Some rugged country had to be encountered before the Murrumbidgee
+was crossed. But this was the _ultimus labor_ of the expedition, for the
+settled territory had now been reached. Mitchell accordingly reckoned
+this outpost the termination of his journey; and it had not been a short
+one. He had travelled over 2,400 miles of country, and was seven months
+in the bush. But he had been more fortunate than any of his
+predecessors; nor, indeed, has his success been eclipsed to this day.
+For this splendid service he was worthily rewarded with the honour of
+knighthood from the British Crown.
+
+
+IV.
+
+The good fortune which had followed Sir Thomas Mitchell throughout his
+three earlier expeditions did not forsake him during this one, which
+proved to be the last and most arduous of the series. It was his
+ambition this time to cross the continent and open an overland route to
+the distant Carpentaria. Of all men living, he was the most likely to
+accomplish this task. He did not, indeed, attain the desire of his
+heart, but in all other respects his expedition was eminently
+successful, and forms a memorable epoch in the history of exploration.
+The party mustered at the old rendezvous of Buree, in the Western
+District, which, though no longer the outpost of settlement, was yet a
+convenient starting-point. Mitchell chose for his second in command Mr.
+Edmund B. Kennedy, the unfortunate explorer who, several years later,
+was killed by the blacks when leading a disastrous expedition in Cape
+York Peninsula. The rest of the party were mostly convicts from Port
+Jackson, who had volunteered their services in the hope of obtaining
+their freedom. The little army, consisting of two dozen able-bodied men,
+amply provisioned, left Buree on the 15th of December, 1845. The old
+route was followed for a considerable way, and in a short time the
+Hervey Range, containing the sources of the Bogan, was crossed without
+serious difficulty. For a long distance westward the country was now
+occupied by squatters, but many of the outsiders had already succumbed
+to the hostility of the Darling blacks, who had speared their cattle and
+otherwise harassed them beyond the limit of human endurance. Ten years
+had now passed away since Mitchell led his preceding expedition through
+these parts, and the abortive attempts at settlement were the principal
+changes observable in the general aspect of the country. One very
+remarkable minor feature was the appearance of couch-grass and
+horehound, which had sprung up around the stockyards. Mitchell was quite
+positive in asserting that no specimen of these plants could have been
+found in the district before the white men settled there.
+
+The party suffered from want of water till Nyngan was reached, on the
+16th January, and then one difficulty was quickly followed by another.
+Most of the men were seized with eye-blight, and compelled to remain in
+camp longer than was convenient for the object of the expedition. But
+they were again on the move as soon as circumstances would permit, the
+march being now directed towards the Macquarie. Meanwhile an encampment
+was made on the Canonbar, a tributary of the Bogan. While resting here
+the saltbush became an object of curiosity, and some interesting
+experiments were made with this singular plant of the interior plains.
+The tiny leaves were found to be a tolerable substitute for vegetables
+after boiling, by which process a yield of pure salt was obtained in the
+proportion of one ounce to the pound. The condition of the stock also
+bore witness to the fattening quality of the same plant.
+
+After a few days of eventful travel by way of Sturt's Duck Ponds, the
+Macquarie River was struck a few miles below Mount Harris, which had
+been an important landmark for explorers since the time of Oxley. The
+channel was dry, but the blacks reported a heavy flood as near at hand.
+Mitchell had often heard of sudden inundations appearing in an arid part
+of the country, and was anxious to witness so singular a visitation.
+Late in the still evening there fell upon his ear a dull murmur as of
+distant thunder, speedily followed by a cracking and crashing of trees,
+and in a few minutes more the river was overflowing its banks in a
+wide-spreading flood. The phenomenon is described as being grand in the
+extreme, and of so improbable a character as scarcely to be credited
+unless it had been witnessed.
+
+On the 27th the Castlereagh was reached, and the next day the party
+found themselves on the banks of the Darling. For many miles in both
+directions the river at this period was studded with pastoral
+settlements. Having crossed at Warley, near one of the stations,
+Mitchell now struck out for the Narran, the nearest point of which was
+reckoned to be about 35 miles distant. The intervening space was found
+to consist of choice pastoral country, covered with tall kangaroo grass.
+Commissioner Mitchell, son of the explorer, had previously traversed
+these parts, and this expedition soon "pulled up" his tracks. The line
+of the Narran River having thus been already explored, it was traversed
+as expeditiously as possible, and this part of the journey was over by
+the beginning of April, when the Balonne (pronounced Baloon) was
+sighted. Mitchell described it as the finest river he had seen in
+Australia, with the exception of the Murray. The current was very
+slight, but the water stretched out in long and beautiful reaches. The
+march was once more resumed, and the party moved along the line of this
+river till St. George's Bridge was reached, where the width expanded to
+120 yards. At this point there is a chain of rocks stretching from bank
+to bank, which has always the appearance, and sometimes the convenience,
+of a natural bridge. It was this circumstance which led to its being
+called St. George's Bridge, a name which it still retains in common with
+the flourishing township that has sprung up in the vicinity.
+
+While enjoying a short interval of repose in this enchanting situation,
+Mitchell had the pleasure of receiving a despatch from headquarters
+containing a brief account of Leichhardt's successful journey to Port
+Essington. Being somewhat jealous of his rival, and, it may be,
+concerned for his own laurels, he determined on making a redoubled
+effort to cross the continent and discover a more practicable route
+than Leichhardt had been able to find. Leaving Kennedy in charge of the
+depôt at St. George, he took a light party and pushed forward, having
+given instructions to the rest to follow his tracks when the stock
+should be sufficiently recruited for travel. One day's march brought the
+advance party to the junction of another important river, which was
+afterwards found to be the Maranoa. But they still kept the line of the
+Balonne as far as the Cogoon, a considerable tributary, which was now
+followed. This led the explorers into a splendid district, known
+afterwards as the Fitzroy Downs, near the centre of which the town of
+Roma now stands. This fine region was studded with isolated
+mountain-peaks, one of which Mitchell hastened to ascend. The prospect
+obtained from its summit was magnificent, and the pasture so abundant on
+this height as to suggest the name of Mount Abundance, which it has ever
+since retained. At a short distance the three-peaked Bindango, standing
+near its fellow, Bindeygo, formed most picturesque features in the
+landscape. It was on Mount Abundance that the first bottle-tree was
+discovered. This is the strangest product of the Australian forest, and
+Sir Thomas was disposed to regard it as a _lusus naturæ_ in the
+vegetable kingdom.
+
+The telescope again brought into view a range of hills. Mitchell, bent
+on reaching Carpentaria, had for some time been disappointed in not
+finding the division of the northern waters, and fervently hoped this
+distant range would prove to be the dividing line. This watershed was to
+him, through the whole journey, what the horizon is to the
+traveller--always appearing near and ever receding. Many a weary day did
+he toil on, sustained by this expectation, but it kept mocking him to
+the last, and he went to his grave without having crossed the coveted
+watershed. But for the present he enjoyed the pleasures of hope. Leaving
+Mount Abundance he soon discovered the Amby, which, being followed, led
+on to the Maranoa, whose junction with the Balonne he had previously
+discovered. Here he established another depôt and waited for Kennedy,
+making in the meantime several short excursions in various directions.
+Not far from this depôt a squatting station was subsequently formed, and
+more recently an important town has been built, in both of which the
+name of Mitchell has been perpetuated. Kennedy having brought up his
+party in excellent condition, the experiment which had been so
+successfully made at St. George's Bridge was repeated here--the leader
+again setting out for the north with a small equipment and a four
+months' supply of provisions. The natives in this quarter were not
+disposed to stand on friendly terms with the strangers, and usually kept
+at a safe distance. One inconvenience only Mitchell regretted. Many
+interesting natural features were observed, especially mountain-peaks,
+which he would gladly have made known under the aboriginal names.
+Failing in this, his favourite custom, he called them after some of the
+leading men of the time, as Owen, Faraday, Buckland, and P. P. King. As
+an exception, he named one of the heights Mount Aquarius, in remembrance
+of a very seasonable supply of water it had furnished for his party.
+This difficulty now seemed to be overcome for some time by the discovery
+of the Nive and the Nivelle, important tributaries of a large river.
+This was the Warrego, which would have been followed had it not
+persisted in taking a course which would have led them in the opposite
+direction to Carpentaria.
+
+The country to the northward continued to rise till it reached an
+elevation of something like 1,500 feet. Being also of a mountainous
+character, it was fondly hoped that here, at least, would be found the
+long-sought watershed. This anticipation was rather confirmed by the
+discovery of a beautiful stream, now called Salvator Rosa, which flowed
+northward with a clear and musical current. This pleasing delusion
+lasted only one day, for on the morrow the lovely river ended its course
+in a reedy lake, on the opposite side of which a channel was found, but
+it contained no water at that time. This is one of the heads of the
+Nogoa, a river trending too much to the east to suit Sir Thomas's
+purpose. Other discoveries of streams or watercourses were made soon
+afterwards, two of the principal being named the Claude and the Balmy
+Creek. These designations are suggestive of pleasant associations, and,
+while speaking well for the country, sufficiently prove that the
+expedition had its share of enjoyment as well as the usual experience
+of toil and fatigue.
+
+The 21st of July was rendered memorable by the discovery of the
+Belyando, a fine river, heading towards the north, and offering a better
+promise of leading to the Gulf. In this expectation, it was eagerly
+followed, and in four days conducted the explorers across the Tropic of
+Capricorn. In many parts the country was excellent, stretching out in
+splendid downs, which squatters have long since applied to a lucrative
+purpose, but in other places the axe had to be used to clear a path
+through the brigalow scrubs. In common with other explorers, Mitchell
+has noticed that "the Australian rivers have all distinguishing
+characteristics, which they seem to possess from their source to their
+termination." The Belyando was no exception. It was found throughout its
+course to have an unfortunate propensity for splitting into channels,
+which were often difficult to trace through the thick scrub; but, as a
+compensation, these branches afforded excellent facilities for storage
+of water against dry seasons. Many days of persevering travel gave the
+party a good northing, but, after passing over three and a half degrees
+of latitude, it began to be evident that the Belyando also was going to
+deceive them. It had been steadily, and latterly very decisively, making
+for the east, thus leaving no hope of conducting the expedition to
+Carpentaria. Mitchell rightly conjectured that it must be the tributary
+which Leichhardt had seen joining the Suttor, and, with a crushing
+feeling of disappointment, determined to change his front and return
+home.
+
+Having still a sufficient store of provisions, he was unwilling to
+continue his homeward track, and resolved to follow up a river to the
+westward, which took its rise in the high ground previously mentioned.
+It was found to lead through first-class pasture land, and this
+excursion resulted in opening up a large area of squatting country. Many
+tributaries were noticed to fall in on either side, particularly the
+Alice, which came from the north. The main river was followed till it,
+too, left no hope of leading to the coveted north. Soon after Sir Thomas
+gave up the search altogether, and set his face in earnest for the
+settled districts, which he reached, after no long interval, by way of
+the Mooni River and the Liverpool Plains. Having failed to enter into
+communication with the aborigines, he was unable to ascertain the native
+name of the river which had led him so far to the west. It was the last
+of his great discoveries, and he called it after the name of the Queen,
+an unfortunate designation, as there is another Victoria River on the
+west coast. About the same period Captain Sturt was exploring on another
+part of this river, and gave it the name of Cooper's Creek. The natives
+called it the Barcoo, and by this name it is now generally known
+throughout its whole course.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER IX.
+
+KENNEDY'S DISASTROUS EXPEDITION TO CAPE YORK.
+
+
+This chapter is from first to last a tale of woe. The history of
+exploration, tragic as it has so often been, contains no parallel to the
+expedition which is now to be described. Of the thirteen brave men who,
+full of hope, set forth on this memorable journey, only three starved
+and emaciated shadows of humanity returned to tell the story of their
+miserable sufferings. The disaster produced in Sydney an impression
+which was the more saddening as a successful issue had been confidently
+expected. The leader, Mr. Edmund B. Kennedy, was supposed to be a
+thoroughly capable person. He had formerly been taken from the Survey
+Department and placed second in command of the northern expedition of
+Sir Thomas Mitchell, whose discoveries on the Barcoo and the Warrego he
+had subsequently followed up on his own account. So great care had been
+taken in selecting the most promising leader, for this reason, simply,
+that the colony was now passionately in earnest on this business. The
+rising importance and threatening attitude of Port Phillip made it more
+than ever necessary to discover, if possible, a practicable route to
+some northern port which might serve as an _entrepôt_ for the trade with
+India. Mitchell, after doing his best, had failed to supply this want.
+Leichhardt had, indeed, been more successful, for he had actually
+reached Port Essington; but his track was too rough and circuitous to
+serve the purpose of commerce. Another effort to reach the same object
+was now to be made on a modified plan. To simplify the process, it was
+proposed to land a party of explorers at Rockingham Bay, with
+instructions to proceed overland to Port Albany, near Cape York, in the
+extreme north. This was the primary object, and if it could be attained,
+other advantages might follow in the opening up of new country, and the
+eventual connection of the survey with those of Leichhardt and Mitchell.
+
+The enterprise commenced with unfavourable omens. The voyage to
+Rockingham Bay was tempestuous, and extended over the unusual period of
+twenty-one days. By the 1st day of June, 1848, the adventurers had
+escaped from the perils of the sea, and committed themselves to the
+guardianship of a land inhabited as yet only by savages. A hazardous
+journey of six months lay between them and Port Albany, while their only
+resource against starvation consisted of 1 ton of flour, 90 lbs. of tea,
+and 600 lbs. of sugar, together with a few sheep, which were soon almost
+wholly lost. It was arranged that a relief vessel should be waiting at
+Cape York to receive the explorers at the end of their journey, and it
+was promised also that an attempt would be made to communicate with them
+at Princess Charlotte Bay, if they could engage to reach that place by
+the month of August. With these arrangements and understandings the
+_Tam o' Shanter_ spread sail, and left Kennedy with his heroic dozen to
+battle with difficulties, known and unknown, as they best could. These
+unhappily commenced at once, and never ceased till nearly all this brave
+band found rest in the arms of death. The ground on which the landing
+had been effected was covered with interminable swamps, and five
+precious weeks were spent in turning these, before any northing could be
+made. It was the misfortune of this ill-provisioned party to encounter
+within a short compass nearly all the obstacles which have beset
+Australian explorers, and these, truly, have been neither few nor small.
+Scarcely had the maze of marshes been left behind when impenetrable
+thickets threatened to bar further progress. These first visitors to
+York Peninsula found the scrubs entangled and interlaced by a new
+creeper which is now known under the name of _Calamus Australis_, and
+this novelty proved to be a scourge of the first magnitude. For days in
+succession the axe had to be used to cut a passage through this
+exquisite specimen of nature's lattice-work, and then the severed
+tendrils, furnished as they were with curved spines, and made the
+plaything of the wind, kept hooking the flesh of the men at work, who
+were thus subjected to perpetual annoyance. But a more serious enemy now
+began to hang upon the rear. The blacks, having assumed a threatening
+attitude for some time past, at last appeared in strong force, painted
+and armed for the fight. Outward signs of friendship were still kept
+up; but it was too evident that they were bent on mischief, and only
+waited a fit opportunity for a decisive assault. When least expected a
+spear was thrown into the camp, which Kennedy determined to accept as a
+challenge, and gave battle. This decision was exceedingly unfortunate,
+as it led to extremities at once. Men like Sturt would have tried every
+conceivable shift before allowing matters to come to the _dernier
+ressort_, and might have gained their object by the mere sound of a gun.
+But Kennedy ordered his men to load and fire upon the savages at once.
+Four or five of the ringleaders fell, and the rest retreated for the
+present; but only to nurse their wrath and meditate revenge. Here was
+the beginning of another train of sorrows, for the barbarians never
+ceased to dog Kennedy's steps till their enmity was quenched in his
+blood.
+
+The progress of the expedition was slow and unsatisfactory. Cases of
+individual sickness occasioned irritating delays, and physical
+hindrances became more frequent than ever. A considerable part of the
+route lay between the spurs of the range which would have to be crossed
+before Cape York was reached. It was with great difficulty that the
+drays carrying the provisions had been brought over the rugged country,
+and it had sometimes been necessary to lower them into the ravines by
+means of ropes. As the journey ahead looked still more precipitous, it
+was judged impracticable to take them much further, and with great
+reluctance Kennedy resolved on exchanging this mode of conveyance for
+pack-horses. Everything that could be spared was accordingly abandoned,
+for the animals were now too poor to carry heavy loads. In this manner
+and under such difficulties a fresh start was made. Amid so many
+discouragements only one gleam of hope sustained the heroic adventurers.
+They were now nearing Princess Charlotte Bay, the appointed rendezvous
+for themselves and the succour which was promised from the sea. But they
+had been delayed too long to admit of this assistance being confidently
+relied on. August was fixed as the time of meeting, but October had now
+come, and they began to be uneasy lest the vessel should have given them
+up and returned. These fears, as the issue proved, were only too well
+founded. The hapless wanderers, standing on the precipices of the range,
+scanned the inhospitable coast for miles around this lonely
+trysting-place; but instead of the wished-for help, now a question of
+life and death, they were met by nothing but blank despair. With heavy
+hearts the explorers again set their faces towards Cape York, now
+knowing for certain that they must either reach this goal or lay their
+bones in the wilderness. Unhappily, the difficulties of travel thickened
+more and more, and it became painfully evident to Kennedy that he would
+have to leave the greater part of his men and strike out with all speed,
+in the hope of returning with assistance. Provisions, too, had become
+alarmingly short, and under any circumstances starvation seemed all but
+inevitable. The camp was now on Pudding-pan Hill, in the vicinity of
+Weymouth Bay, and it was determined to leave eight men in this depôt for
+the present. All the provisions that could be spared were 28 lbs. of
+flour and a couple of horses, which were only walking skeletons. Kennedy
+reckoned on reaching Port Albany in about a fortnight, and started with
+a light party of four men, including an aboriginal of tried fidelity
+named Jacky Jacky. The remainder of this history is derived from the
+barely intelligible language of poor Jacky. It appears that for the
+first three weeks very unsatisfactory progress was made, much precious
+time being lost in consequence of a gun accident. One of the men being
+thus rendered unfit for travel, and another required to nurse him,
+Kennedy resolved to divide his party a second time. He accordingly left
+three men near Shelborne Bay, and, with only Jacky to accompany him,
+determined to make a life-and-death struggle to bring succour from Port
+Albany. But his own strength was rapidly failing, and the hostility of
+the blacks, who had so long hung upon his rear, was daily assuming a
+more deadly aspect. This misfortune was the more to be regretted as this
+tedious and toilsome journey was almost at an end. From one of the
+heights Kennedy caught a glimpse of Port Albany, with its neighbouring
+island, and pointed them out to his dusky companion. But his life's
+journey was still nearer its close. The blacks were gathering in
+hundreds. An ineffectual attempt was tried to elude their vigilance by
+camping in the scrub without a fire, but they again made their presence
+known by hurling the deadly spear. Jacky made a rush to rally the
+horses, which, frantic with their wounds, had begun to dash through the
+scrub, and, on returning, found his master had been speared, surrounded,
+and robbed. A feeble resistance was offered to the assault of the
+savages, but it had little effect, and was soon over. Jacky thought
+Kennedy was dying fast, and asked if he was now going to leave him. He
+said he was fatally wounded, and, having given a brief order concerning
+his papers, breathed his last in the arms of his faithful attendant.
+Such was the end of Mr. E. B. Kennedy, a man who has left his mark on
+our history, and will be honoured by posterity as one of the most
+heroic, if not the most judicious, and certainly the least fortunate, of
+the Australian explorers.
+
+Jacky, being now alone, and more dead than alive, made his way as best
+he could to Port Albany. His progress was sometimes less than a mile per
+day, but he struggled on in the hope of finding the promised vessel.
+Almost six months had passed away since the party of thirteen
+disembarked at Rockingham Bay. It was within two days of Christmas, and
+those in charge of the ship were debating with themselves whether it was
+worth while waiting any longer, when a poor emaciated creature was
+observed to drag himself from the forest and make signs to the vessel.
+Being conveyed on board, his tale of woe was soon told, in such words as
+he could use. The gravity of the situation became apparent immediately,
+and the order was given at once to hoist sail for Shelborne Bay, in the
+hope of being able to rescue the three men who had been left at
+Pudding-pan Hill. The search was unsuccessful. No trace of these
+unfortunates could then, or has ever since been discovered. There still
+remained the depôt at Weymouth Bay, where the necessities of the eight
+men left there could not be otherwise than urgent in the extreme, if
+they were still alive. All haste was made to the rescue. The eight were
+all found, but six of them were dead. The two survivors were more like
+ghosts than human beings of flesh and blood. The tale of miseries which
+they had to relate was heartrending. In addition to the lingering
+horrors of starvation, they had to endure incessant attacks from the
+blacks, who, knowing they had them in their power, enjoyed a savage
+delight in prolonging the distress of their victims. Yet it appears that
+the half-dozen eventually died of hunger, a fate which the survivors
+must inevitably have shared if relief had been much longer delayed.
+Having been too weak to bury their dead companions, this sacred duty was
+performed by the ship's crew, who thereafter hastened homeward with the
+miserable remains of Kennedy's heroic but ill-starred expedition.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER X.
+
+LEICHHARDT'S EXPEDITIONS TO PORT ESSINGTON AND INTO THE INTERIOR.
+
+
+Dr. Ludwig Leichhardt, who was born in Germany and educated in France,
+came to Australia in the year 1840. He commenced his career in Sydney as
+a lecturer on botany, his favourite science, and became immediately
+popular. Naturally fond of travel, and being eager for enterprise,
+Leichhardt took to the bush, where he earned his fame and lost his life.
+His first essays in exploration were made in the country lying between
+Brisbane and Wide Bay, which he traversed specially in the interests of
+botanical and geological science. In these adventures he was associated
+for the most part with the blacks, who welcomed him as a benefactor on
+account of his medical skill, of which he gave them the full benefit
+without fee or reward.
+
+Having accomplished his object in this part of the country, Leichhardt
+returned to Sydney, where he found public opinion strongly excited on
+the question of exploration. Sir Thomas Mitchell, having led three
+expeditions into the interior with great success, was mainly
+instrumental in creating this outburst of enthusiasm, which called for
+other enterprises of a like nature and purpose. At this period, also, a
+keen desire was manifested for an overland route to Carpentaria as a
+highway, so far, to India, which was supposed to offer an unlimited
+market for Australian horses. Already a settlement had come into
+existence at Port Essington, which was reckoned a suitable _entrepôt_
+for the prospective traffic. The one thing wanted was an overland route
+to this place, and it was generally thought the time had come when an
+attempt should be made to discover it. Sir Thomas Mitchell was again to
+the front, expressing himself ready for the undertaking, with Dr.
+Leichhardt as second in command. He had already arranged to proceed to
+his old depôt at Fort Bourke and to strike north for Carpentaria. But a
+fatal obstacle was unexpectedly interposed. Sir George Gipps, being in a
+bad humour with his advisers, refused to confirm the vote for supplies
+which the Council had unanimously passed, and, as a natural consequence,
+the whole project fell to the ground. This was a sore blow to
+Leichhardt, but it did not unman him. Despairing of help or countenance
+from the Governor, he volunteered to lead an expedition to Port
+Essington on his own account if private liberality should prove itself
+equal to the occasion. In a very short time sufficient resources were
+forthcoming, and Leichhardt now set himself to redeem his promise.
+
+
+I.
+
+In this expedition it was resolved to start from Moreton Bay and keep
+the eastern fall of the main range, thus avoiding the parched-up
+interior and following a route which was likely to furnish an adequate
+supply of water. Leichhardt could never have been far beyond the reach
+of the sea-breeze--a circumstance which caused Mitchell to speak of him,
+rather contemptuously, as a "timid coaster." The party, consisting of
+ten persons, with seven months' provisions, made an auspicious start
+from Brisbane, and had reached the outskirts of settlement by the 1st of
+October, 1844. Crossing the Darling Downs, the River Condamine was
+followed as far as practicable, after which a dividing range was
+traversed and the Dawson River discovered. It flowed through a
+magnificent valley, which was soon after proved to be an excellent
+pastoral district. When it turned too much to the east a more northerly
+course was steered, which led to the discovery of Palm-Tree Creek, in a
+splendid valley abounding in palms, and hence the name. The next stage
+was much impeded by brigalow scrub, but a succession of lagoons supplied
+the party with plenty of water and excellent game. Zamia Creek followed
+in the line of discovery, bounded by the Expedition Range, which was
+crossed, and Comet Creek discovered soon after. This latter led on to
+the Mackenzie, which had to be abandoned in a short time, as it flowed
+too much to the east. The picturesque Peak Range was now passed. The
+mountains not only appeared magnificent in point of scenery, but were
+believed also to contain precious stones. Leichhardt says:--"A profusion
+of chalcedony and fine specimens of agate were observed in many places
+along the basaltic ridges." On the 13th of February they discovered an
+important river, which was named the Isaacs, but it was not followed, as
+the course was again directed towards the mountains. Shortly after they
+had the good fortune to come upon the Suttor, which brought them to the
+Burdekin. This was the best discovery yet made, as it served them for a
+guide over more than two degrees of latitude. When this river also left
+them for the coast, their route was directed more inland, with a view of
+reaching Carpentaria. In this cross-country journey a conspicuous
+mountain observed in the distance received the name of Mount Lang,
+"after Dr. Lang, the distinguished historiographer of New South Wales."
+A few unimportant creeks having been crossed, they found themselves on
+the western fall, and discovered one of the Gulf rivers, which was named
+the Lynd. Here, and at several later camps, the explorers were treated
+with a visit from some awfully pertinacious intruders. "We had scarcely
+left our camp," says Leichhardt, "when swarms of crows and kites took
+possession of it, after having given us a fair fight during the previous
+days whilst we were drying the meat. Their boldness was, indeed,
+remarkable; and if the natives had as much we should soon have to quit
+our camps." In this district a botanical novelty, in the form of a
+bread-fruit tree, was found, and used to some advantage. As the Lynd did
+not lead in the most suitable direction, it was left, and a straight
+line taken to the Gulf. This was the occasion of the discovery of
+another river, which was called the Mitchell, in honour of the
+distinguished explorer; but it, too, was given up for a shorter course.
+In this quarter a deplorable accident occurred. The camp was attacked
+during night by the blacks, when Gilbert, the naturalist to the
+expedition, was killed. From this point the journey was continued round
+the head of the Gulf. Numerous rivers were crossed, some of which had
+been long before discovered by exploring navigators, and others were now
+for the first time brought to light. Among the latter were the Gilbert
+and the Roper, both receiving names in honour of members of the
+expedition. The Roper River had many tributaries, one of which was
+called Flying-Fox Creek, from the myriads of these creatures which had
+chosen it for their haunt. Leichhardt says:--"I went with Charley and
+Brown to the spot where we had seen the greatest number of flying-foxes,
+and whilst I was examining the neighbouring tree, my companions shot 67,
+of which 55 were brought to our camp, which served for dinner, supper,
+and luncheon." By the 24th of November the expedition had crossed the
+watershed between the streams flowing into the Gulf and those heading
+for the Indian Ocean. After much toilsome travel, the South Alligator
+River was reached, about 60 miles from its mouth and 140 from Port
+Essington. In this locality the waterfowl are described as being seen,
+not in crowds, but in "clouds." "Here," says Leichhardt, "we should
+have been tolerably comfortable but for a large green-eyed fly, which
+was extremely troublesome to us, and which scarcely allowed our poor
+horses to feed." In order to avoid some bad, rocky ground, the party
+turned to the south and struck the East Alligator River. The last stage
+of the journey was travelled under the direction of a native guide, and
+the goal of the expedition reached in safety. After a month's rest in
+this settlement, Leichhardt found a schooner bound for Port Jackson, and
+embraced this opportunity of returning to Sydney by sea. His unexpected
+appearance there seemed like an apparition from the other world. For a
+long time he had been given up for lost, and a search expedition had
+already come back unsuccessful. The citizens of Sydney at once
+instituted a public subscription for Leichhardt and his associates, who
+had thus travelled over 3,000 miles in fifteen months. The amount
+reached the figure of £1,500, which was supplemented by a Government
+grant of £1,000. The Royal Geographical Societies, also, hastened to
+show their appreciation of the explorer's labours by presenting him with
+their gold medals. These rewards had been as honestly earned as they
+were handsomely made. The route he had laid open was, indeed, useless
+for the purpose intended, as being impracticable for traffic, and
+inferior to others which have since been discovered, but the expedition
+brought to the knowledge of the colonists an immense extent of excellent
+country, which was speedily occupied by pastoral tenants.
+
+
+II.
+
+A short period of repose sufficed to recruit the wearied explorer and
+brace him up for future effort. Now more enthusiastic than ever,
+Leichhardt conceived the heroic idea of traversing the entire continent
+at its greatest width, starting from Moreton Bay and proceeding through
+the deserts to Swan River in Western Australia. He was now in possession
+of some private means, and his zeal was again supported by numerous
+friends. This new expedition consisted of nine persons, and his
+equipment, especially under the head of live stock, was provided on the
+largest scale the colony had yet witnessed. These consisted of 108
+sheep, 270 goats, 40 bullocks, 15 horses, and 15 mules. His plan was to
+follow his former route for a few hundred miles, and then bear off to
+the westward. All went tolerably well till the Dawson country was
+passed, after which wet weather became a serious hindrance. At Comet
+Creek the party began to suffer from fever and ague, but still pushed on
+to the Mackenzie, where they found themselves in a deplorable plight.
+The resources had been wasted, not so much as a dose of medicine being
+left for the sick. No one being able to attend to the sheep and cattle,
+the whole were irretrievably lost. It now became evident to Leichhardt,
+as it had been for some time to his companions, that it would be the
+part of madness to attempt the unknown desert so ill-furnished with
+supplies. Conquered by dire necessity, Leichhardt returned home with a
+heavy heart, after a fruitless journey of seven months. The expedition
+had proved a total failure, and, as the old track had been followed, the
+journey added nothing to what was already known of the distant parts of
+the country.
+
+
+III.
+
+In the meantime Sir Thomas Mitchell had made a fourth exploring
+expedition, and on this occasion had done his best to discover an
+interior route to Carpentaria. He failed, however, in this object; but
+in all other respects the undertaking had been eminently successful. In
+one quarter the tracks of the two explorers had approached within a
+short distance of one another, and Leichhardt, being in possession of a
+considerable salvage from the wreck of his second expedition, proposed
+to examine the intervening district--a fine territory, now known as the
+Fitzroy Downs. This was a small undertaking for so great an explorer.
+Nor was it a very necessary one either, for the squatters were already
+in possession of the country, and the crack of the stockman's whip
+suggested to Leichhardt the propriety of returning home and preparing
+for an enterprise more worthy of his well-won reputation.
+
+
+IV.
+
+Arrangements were again made in earnest for crossing the continent to
+Swan River, all being ready to set out from Moreton Bay with a party of
+only six men, provisioned for a journey which was calculated to extend
+over two or three years. The second in command was one Classan,
+brother-in-law to Leichhardt, who had just arrived from Germany to join
+the expedition. The late Rev. W. B. Clarke, being surprised at so
+peculiar an arrangement, asked the "new chum" what qualifications he
+possessed for the most perilous enterprise hitherto attempted in
+Australia? Classan replied that he was a seaman who had suffered
+shipwreck, and was, therefore, well fitted to endure hardship! In this
+expedition Leichhardt resolved to abandon his old route for that of Sir
+Thomas Mitchell, which he proposed to follow as far as the bend of the
+Victoria (Barcoo), and then turn westward. He seems to have fallen into
+this track near Mount Abundance, in the neighbourhood of the present
+town of Roma, in Queensland. It is not possible to trace the expedition
+much further, nor is there any hope of the veil of mystery ever being
+lifted. Here are Leichhardt's last words to the civilized world, as
+written from M'Pherson's station, on the Cogoon, under date of 3rd
+April, 1848:--"I take the last opportunity of giving you an account of
+my progress. In eleven days we travelled from Mr. Burrell's station, on
+the Condamine, to Mr. M'Pherson's, on the Fitzroy Downs. Though the
+country was occasionally very difficult, yet everything went on very
+well. My mules are in excellent order, my companions in excellent
+spirits. Three of my cattle are footsore, but I shall kill one of them
+to-night, to lay in our necessary stock of dried beef. The Fitzroy
+Downs, on which we travelled for about 22 miles from east to west, is,
+indeed, a splendid region, and Sir Thomas Mitchell has not exaggerated
+their beauty in his account. The soil is pebbly and sound, richly
+grassed, and, to judge from the myalls, of the most fattening quality. I
+came right on to Mount Abundance and passed over a gap in it with my
+whole train. My latitude agreed well with Mitchell's. I fear that the
+absence of water in the Fitzroy Downs will render this fine country, to
+a great degree, unavailable. I observe the thermometer daily at 6 a.m.
+and 8 p.m., which are the only convenient hours. I have tried the wet
+thermometer, but am afraid my observations will be very deficient. I
+shall, however, improve on them as I proceed. The only serious accident
+that has happened was the loss of a spade, but we were fortunate enough
+to make it up at this station. Though the days are still very hot, the
+beautiful clear nights are cool and benumb the mosquitoes, which have
+ceased to trouble us. Myriads of flies are the only annoyance we have.
+Seeing how much I have been favoured on my present progress, I am full
+of hopes that our Almighty Protector will allow me to bring my darling
+scheme to a successful termination." This last communication,
+unfortunately, says nothing about the direction in which he intended to
+travel, and his route henceforth is a matter of pure conjecture. After
+years of weary waiting Mr. Hovenden Hely was sent to search for his
+tracks, but without avail. Hely was played upon by the blacks, who
+pretended to show him several of Leichhardt's camping grounds, and
+finally the bones of the murdered party. They turned out, however, to be
+mutton-bones, and the search ended in nothing. Mr. A. C. Gregory,
+himself a distinguished explorer, led two expeditions with the same
+object in view, and discovered a tree marked "L," which may or may not
+have been made by Leichhardt. Walker, when searching for Burke and
+Wills, believed he had found some traces of the missing expedition; but
+these marks were again successfully contested by Landsborough. Still
+later a Mr. Skuthorpe, in a most mercenary fashion, tried to persuade
+the public, and especially the Government of New South Wales, that he
+had discovered certain relics of the expedition, including Leichhardt's
+journal in good preservation; but the affair was looked upon as an
+imposition, and nothing further has transpired. It cannot be said with
+certainty that a single trace of Leichhardt has been discovered since he
+wrote his letter from the Fitzroy Downs.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XI.
+
+MR. A. C. GREGORY'S EXPEDITION TO THE NORTH-WEST INTERIOR.
+
+
+The part of the continent which shall next engage our attention is the
+north-west interior. Up to this period of our history very little had
+been known of this quarter, except along the seaboard and, in sparse
+places, for a few miles inland. The Victoria had been discovered in 1840
+by Captain Stokes, who described it as a rival to the Murray, and,
+moreover, sailed up its channel for 50 miles without reaching the head
+of the navigation. By this waterway it was thought possible to reach the
+north-western interior, in which some traces of Leichhardt might be met
+with. The conduct of this expedition was entrusted to Mr. A. C. Gregory,
+a very capable explorer, and a man of scientific attainments. His party
+numbered eighteen persons, including his brother, Mr. H. Gregory, Mr.
+Wilson, geologist, and the now famous Baron Von Mueller as botanist. The
+party took with them 50 horses and 200 sheep. The _Tom Tough_ and the
+_Monarch_ landed the expedition on the Plains of Promise, near the head
+of the Gulf of Carpentaria, on the 24th September, 1855. The _Monarch_
+then returned to Moreton Bay, while the _Tom Tough_ sailed round to the
+Victoria, having received orders to wait for the rest of the party, who
+were to proceed overland. In six days they made the Macadam Range, and
+in eight more came on to the Fitzmaurice River. At this camp the horses,
+which had already been greatly reduced in number, were bitten by
+alligators, and three of them died. On reaching the Victoria the _Tom
+Tough_ was not to be seen, as she had been driven ashore elsewhere and
+had sustained severe injury. On the 3rd of January, 1856, Mr. Gregory
+started with eight men and followed up the Victoria for 100 miles. In
+latitude 16° 26' S. it split into two branches, each of which was in
+succession traced up to the vanishing point. The explorers then struck
+forth into the desert, proceeding on a southerly course. A journey of
+300 miles brought them, on the 22nd of February, to a promising creek,
+to which they gave the name of Sturt, in memory of the eminent explorer.
+To their intense disappointment, this clue also failed them, for Sturt's
+Creek finally resolved itself into a sheet of salt water, to which they
+gave the appropriate designation of Lake Termination. Two mountains in
+this neighbourhood were called Mount Mueller and Mount Wilson, after the
+botanist and the geologist of the expedition. Once more the terrible
+salt desert lay before the baffled explorers. "Nothing," says the
+leader, "could have been more forbidding than the long, straight lines
+of drift-sand which, having nearly an east and west direction, rose
+beyond each other like the waves of the sea; and though the red glare of
+the sand was partially concealed by a scanty growth of spinifex, the
+reflection from its surface caused the passing clouds to be coloured a
+deep purple. We had long passed the limit to which the tropical rains of
+the north-west coast extend, and the country south of 19° seemed only to
+be visited by occasional thunderstorms. Thus for a few miles the grass
+would be fresh and green, then there would be a long interval of dry,
+parched country, where no rain appeared to have fallen for a
+twelve-month. The channel of the creek also decreased in size, and the
+frequent occurrence of salicornia indicated the saline nature of the
+soil; the water became brackish, then salt, and finally spread out and
+terminated in the dry bed of a salt lake, a mile in diameter, which
+communicated with a second, of larger size, nine miles long and five
+wide. Though now quite dry, there were marks of water having stood for
+considerable periods, of from 10 to 15 feet deep, as the shells of
+mussels in their natural position were abundant more than a mile from
+the ordinary bank of the lake, showing that a large tract of country is
+sometimes inundated. As the mussels are a species which live in fresh
+water, it is evident that at such times the lake is not salt, but it
+would appear that as the waters evaporate and recede they become saline,
+as the shells found within the limits of the lake were of other species
+which affect brackish or salt water." One more attempt to make for the
+south proved abortive, and, with many regrets, Gregory returned to the
+depôt, after having penetrated within 730 miles of Sturt's most
+advanced camp towards the centre of Australia.
+
+Falling back upon alternative instructions, the leader now left the
+Victoria, and, making his way across Arnheim's Land, reached the River
+Roper. The track of Leichhardt round the southern shores of the Gulf was
+followed for the most part. The Plains of Promise were crossed, but
+Gregory scarcely agreed with Stokes in his unqualified praise of this
+country. From the Albert River he resolved to seek for a better track to
+Moreton Bay than Leichhardt's. The Flinders was reached on the 8th of
+September, between which river and the Gilbert some good country was
+discovered. The latter was traced for 180 miles of its course. The
+Burdekin was reached by the 16th of October, and a fortnight later its
+junction with the Suttor. Gregory traced the Belyando to 22°, thus
+connecting the routes of Mitchell and Leichhardt with his own. Passing
+the Mackenzie and the Comet, the Dawson River was reached by the 15th of
+November. The course was then made to Brisbane through the Burnett
+district, a journey of 400 miles. The parties in this expedition had
+been absent sixteen months from the haunts of civilization. They had
+travelled 2,000 miles by sea and 5,000 by land.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XII.
+
+BURKE AND WILLS'S EXPEDITION ACROSS THE AUSTRALIAN CONTINENT.
+
+
+The golden age of Australian exploration dates from 1860. The preceding
+half-century is rich in heroic efforts put forth in this direction, and
+bears witness to many a conquest over the mysterious interior as the
+fruit of much self-sacrifice. Yet these results, as a class, were of a
+secondary character, only sometimes answering the hopes of the explorers
+themselves, and not doing so at all when these expectations rose to the
+ambition of crossing the continent. But those days of comparative
+failure are now over, and 1860 marks the commencement of a bright and
+glorious era for the explorers of this hitherto dark continent. Within
+the space of the next two years Australia was crossed no fewer than six
+times, by as many expeditions. The foremost place in time, as well as
+interest, belongs to Burke and Wills, and for this reason the story of
+their victory and sufferings will form the subject of the present
+chapter.
+
+Victoria has the credit of this expedition. The movement originated in
+the offer of £1,000 by Mr. Ambrose Kyte, on condition of this sum being
+doubled by voluntary subscriptions. The terms were soon complied with,
+after which the Government generously came to its aid by a vote of
+£5,500. The arrangements were undertaken by a committee of the Royal
+Society, and, as the funds were ample, it was determined to equip the
+expedition on the most liberal scale. As a new feature in exploration,
+two dozen camels were imported from India, and every provision was made
+to secure the object on which the young colony had set its heart. The
+only difficulty that remained was to find a competent leader. After much
+delay had been occasioned through unsuccessful negotiation, the command
+was finally given to an enthusiastic volunteer named Robert O'Hara
+Burke. This remarkable man was a native of Ireland, but was educated in
+Belgium, and had served as an officer in the Austrian cavalry. He
+subsequently returned to the "Green Isle," and entered the constabulary
+force. Having emigrated to Australia he received a similar appointment,
+and held the position of inspector of police when this new honour was
+conferred upon him. He was a brave and generous man--few, indeed, have
+been more heroic and faithful--but, as he possessed little acquaintance
+with Australian exploration, and was destitute of special qualifications
+for the work, his appointment has generally been regarded as a mistake
+on the part of the committee. The position of second in command, with
+the office of astronomical observer, was conferred on William John
+Wills, who had been born in Devonshire as late as 1834. He came out to
+Australia while a mere youth, and for a time had to betake himself to
+the humble occupation of shepherd, but being well educated and
+possessing excellent gifts of head and heart, he soon rose to the
+position of a government surveyor, and afterwards obtained the
+honourable office of assistant astronomer in the Melbourne Observatory.
+
+The expedition, when fully organized, consisted of 15 men and 24 camels,
+with twelve months' provisions, weighing in all 21 tons. The start was
+made from Melbourne on the 20th of August, 1860--an imposing spectacle,
+which has yet left its impression on the memories of many of the older
+inhabitants of that city. By the committee's direction, they were to
+march first to the Darling, next to the Lower Barcoo (Cooper's Creek),
+and then strike northward for the Gulf of Carpentaria. Melbourne had
+been left too late in the season, and this disadvantage was aggravated
+by delays occasioned by the unwieldiness of the expedition and
+insubordination on the part of some of the men. At length Menindie, on
+the Darling, was reached. The name is new in the history of exploration,
+but the locality is in the neighbourhood of Laidley Ponds, a quarter
+which was then well known to the readers of Sturt and Mitchell. Burke
+formed a depôt here, in which he left the greater part of his men and
+some beasts of burden to recruit from the fatigues of their toilsome
+journey. Taking Wills, together with six men and 15 camels, he made his
+arrangements for a quick journey across to the Barcoo. It had been his
+intention to follow Sturt's old track, but he was dissuaded from his
+purpose by a Mr. Wright, superintendent of a neighbouring pastoral
+station, who told him of a better route further to the north, and
+volunteered to conduct the party over it in person. Both the advice and
+the offer were accepted; nor did experience fail to justify the change
+of plan. Travelling was agreeable on this new route, and water found at
+intervals of not more than 20 miles. The march from Menindie to
+Torowotto was little short of a pleasure excursion, and Burke, with the
+generosity which was part of his nature, now associated Wright
+permanently with the expedition, giving him the position of third in
+command. Being no longer needed as a guide, he was sent back from this
+place to the depôt on the Darling, with orders to bring forward the
+heavy supplies with all convenient speed. The advance party continued
+their progress into the interior, and, on the 11th of November, struck
+the Barcoo, which was followed until a suitable place was found where
+they might encamp till the arrival of Wright with the remainder of the
+expedition. The delay proved to be longer than had been expected; and,
+that the time might not be altogether lost, some explorations were made
+in the surrounding country, and several promising routes to the Gulf
+were examined with little satisfactory result. Worst of all, some of the
+camels were lost, and although much time was consumed in the search,
+they were never seen again by the explorers. Wright's delay was becoming
+as vexatious as it seemed to be inexcusable. Six weeks had passed away
+since he left Burke, and yet the whole distance from Menindie to the
+encampment on the Barcoo had been traversed by the advance party in
+twenty-two days. Chafed and irritated almost to madness under the
+disappointment, Burke determined to endure it no longer, and resolved
+"to dash into the interior, and cross the continent at all hazards." For
+this purpose he again divided his party, taking with himself Wills and
+two others, named King and Gray, together with six camels, one horse,
+and twelve weeks' provisions. The camp was now transformed into a
+permanent depôt, in which were left four men, six camels, and four
+horses. One of the party named Brahe was put in command, with
+instructions to erect a stockade as a means of defence against the
+natives, and to detain Wright after his arrival with supplies. Burke was
+now entering upon the real difficulties of his gigantic undertaking, and
+had at command only a mere fraction of the means which he had brought
+out of Melbourne. But of hope and courage he had lost nothing. On the
+16th of December he took leave of Brahe and his men, telling them, with
+his wonted generosity, that if he were not back in three months, they
+might consult for their own welfare as should appear to be necessary.
+
+Burke and Wills, together with their brave companions King and Gray, now
+plunged into the unknown deserts and shaped their course for
+Carpentaria. During the earlier stage the whole party rode on the camels
+or the one horse that accompanied them, but the animals got weary, and
+it became necessary to trudge it on foot. Burke and Wills walked ahead,
+carrying a rifle and a revolver, while King and Gray followed with the
+beasts of burden. Their progress was necessarily slow, even though they
+had not encountered serious obstacles of a physical kind. Comfort, or
+anything approaching to it, was utterly unknown. Night after night the
+toil-worn wanderers encamped _sub Jove frigido_, without tents or
+covering of any sort. Yet these hardships were endured without murmur or
+regret. Burke is reported to have said he would not care though he had
+only a shirt on his back, if so be that he could cross Australia. It is
+impossible to give ample details of this northward journey, for the
+materials are scanty. Burke was not much of a literary character, and
+found it too irksome a task to keep a diary. Wills was vastly superior
+in this respect, but yet his journal, otherwise so satisfactory, is
+defective here. This much is certain, that they pursued a north-westerly
+course through the interior, by way of what was afterwards known as
+M'Kinlay Range, discovering and naming Gray and Wills creeks, Mount
+Standish, and other topographical positions which have since become
+prominent landmarks. By the 27th of January they had crossed the
+northern watershed and come on to the Cloncurry, which led them to the
+Flinders. This river was mistaken for the Albert, but was scrupulously
+followed, in the hope that it would lead to the Gulf. After six weeks'
+absence from the Barcoo signs of the neighbourhood of the ocean began to
+appear. The waters of the Flinders became brackish, and gradually
+widened into an estuary. A sight of the ocean would have gladdened the
+eyes of the explorers beyond measure, but a forest of mangroves deprived
+them of this gratification. Nevertheless, they had reached the mouth of
+the Flinders, and were within the limits of the rise and fall of the
+tide. The object which had cost so many sacrifices was accomplished at
+last, _and the continent of Australia traversed from end to end_.
+
+The condition of the explorers was now pitiable in the extreme, and
+never were men more in need of rest or had better deserved it; but to
+rest here meant to perish, for only a fag-end of the rations was left,
+and if they were to see the Barcoo depôt again, it must be by subsisting
+on the merest pittance for the next two months. For this reason no time
+was lost at the Gulf, and the return journey was commenced on the 21st
+February. The weather happened to set in wet, which was a real
+misfortune, as it added immensely to the inconvenience of travel, seeing
+their strength was almost spent. The camels broke down and had all to be
+abandoned except two, which were also in a weakly state. The one horse
+which had been brought from the depôt was killed and eaten, to save the
+provisions. In addition to all the other evils sickness began to affect
+them, and Gray was so ill that he had to be strapped on the back of a
+camel. The poor fellow, driven by starvation, had lately been caught
+appropriating more than his share of the provisions, and was chastised
+by Burke for the offence--an act of discipline which might have been
+spared, for poor Gray was not to eat much more of the little store. Day
+after day he was carried forward on the journey, but each night found
+him getting weaker, and it was necessary to make a halt to let him die.
+He breathed his last in a lonely wilderness, sacrificing his life
+without a murmur to the cause which he loved not less than his master
+did. His three surviving companions mournfully buried him in the desert
+with such strength as was still left them, but were so exhausted with
+the labour of digging his grave as to require a day's rest before
+attempting to renew the journey. They, too, must have succumbed to their
+troubles but for the sustaining power of hope, which told them the
+longed-for depôt could not now be far distant. Other indications also
+pointed the same way, and in four days after leaving Gray's grave their
+eyes were gladdened with the sight of the familiar landmarks of the old
+camping ground on the Barcoo. Burke gathered up all his remaining
+strength and made the desert ring with "cooeys" for his former comrades,
+and listened for a reply; but, _horresco referens_, no response was
+returned but the echo of his own voice. Could it be possible that the
+depôt was abandoned, and the miserable men left to perish in the
+wilderness? The appalling thought was quickly succeeded by the
+experience of the more terrible reality. The place of the encampment was
+plainly visible, and the stockade still standing, but no human being to
+break the solitude. Man could not suffer a more crushing disappointment;
+and it is not surprising to hear that Burke now completely broke down.
+But, after a short interval, one ray of hope sprang up from the depth of
+despair. A marked tree happened to catch the eye of one of the
+explorers, which contained the inscription, "Dig three feet westward."
+Wills and King immediately began to excavate, but Burke was too much
+unmanned to render any assistance. The hole was found to contain a chest
+with some supplies and a letter of explanation. This unhappy day in the
+experience of the explorers was the 21st of April, and the letter was
+eagerly opened to ascertain what time Brahe and his men had left. The
+date was also the 21st of April, at noon--in fact, the ink was scarcely
+dry, for the letter had been written only seven hours before it fell
+into the hands of Burke. It stated, in explanation, that they had
+remained in the depôt four months; that Wright had not come with the
+supplies from Menindie; that the blacks were troublesome and their own
+provisions exhausted. Moreover, as Burke had engaged to return in three
+months, they considered, at the end of four, that he must have perished
+or taken another route.
+
+What was to be done? To remain in the abandoned depôt was to perish, for
+the amount of provisions could only afford a very temporary relief.
+Wills recommended an immediate move in the direction of Menindie, on the
+track of Brahe and party; but Burke was strongly in favour of making for
+South Australia, whose pastoral stations now reached as far as Mount
+Hopeless. At first sight there seemed reason in this advice. Burke
+argued that it was impossible to overtake Brahe in their emaciated
+condition; that Menindie was 400 miles from the depôt, whereas Mount
+Hopeless was only 150; and that the Barcoo River might be expected to
+supply them with water for the most of the route. The course to Mount
+Hopeless was accordingly adopted. Thinking the depôt might possibly be
+visited by a relief party, they took the precaution of burying a letter
+at the foot of the marked tree, stating the direction they had taken,
+adding that their weak condition rendered it impossible to travel more
+than four or five miles a day; but, by a strange oversight, left no
+external indications which would lead such a relief party to conclude
+that the place had been visited by the explorers. Having taken the
+handful of provisions, Burke, Wills and King, together with the two
+surviving camels, started for the most northern settlement of South
+Australia, striving to make the shortest course, and coming on to the
+river only when water failed them elsewhere. One of the camels,
+unfortunately, got bogged, and had to be shot, after two days' labour
+had been spent in trying to extricate it. As much of its flesh as could
+be recovered was dried and added to the small and rapidly diminishing
+store of provisions. They managed to save a little, also, through an
+occasional present of fish from the native tribes, who, fortunately,
+were very friendly. But a great and unexpected misfortune now befell the
+unhappy explorers. The Barcoo, which had been reckoned on to supply them
+with water, split up into several channels and lost itself in the
+desert. One branch after another was followed for some distance, but
+with no other result than the consumption of their provisions and the
+loss of the one surviving camel. They were now reduced to dire extremity
+through want of both food and water, and debated with themselves whether
+they should continue the journey or return and encamp on the nearest
+waterhole in the river, and endeavour to get subsistence from the
+blacks. It was difficult to say how much ground had been travelled over,
+but they supposed it must be somewhere about 45 miles. In reality it was
+about double that distance; and if they could have made another good
+day's journey to the south they would have seen Mount Hopeless raise its
+friendly head above the horizon. But, by another of those fatal
+decisions which haunted this expedition, they resolved to abandon their
+journey and return to the banks of the river. Fighting against despair
+even yet, they conceived a faint hope that the depôt might have been
+visited in the interim, and Wills, with the consent and advice of Burke
+and King, walked back, as he was able, to see if any relief had arrived.
+He reached the end of his journey on the 30th of May, but found no one
+there, and saw no indications which could lead him to think the place
+had been visited since his own party had left. Sorrowful at heart, but
+brave in spirit to the last, Wills again retraced his steps, and
+returned to his companions in a very exhausted condition; but he could
+not have reached them at all without the help of the blacks. All three
+were now destitute, and, with the exception of an occasional present of
+fish, had nothing in the shape of provisions. But even yet there
+appeared to be one resort which lay between them and death by
+starvation. The country abounded with a plant called nardoo, the seeds
+of which, when pounded and baked into a cake, were eaten by the natives.
+The starving explorers adopted the same practice, in the hope of still
+further prolonging their existence. But a little experience proved that
+the nardoo cakes, although allaying the pangs of hunger, contained
+little nourishment, and the heroic sufferers had now fallen into the
+last stage of starvation. If they were to live at all, it was evident
+they must cast themselves on the blacks, and trust to their charity.
+Dreadful as the alternative was, they agreed to adopt it, for life is
+sweet, even in the wilderness. But just here an insuperable difficulty
+intervened, for the blacks were not at hand and had to be sought out.
+Burke and King had yet strength to walk a mile, or perhaps two, in a
+day. But poor Wills could walk no more, and yet he was willing that his
+companions should go and save themselves, if too late to save him. They
+put together a rude shelter, and left to seek the blacks, after taking
+a sorrowful departure, which could hardly fail to be final, for his
+life was visibly ebbing away. But they were not to go far. On the second
+day Burke succumbed, and felt his end to be at hand. He was a brave man,
+yet he shrank from the idea of dying alone, and entreated King to stay
+with him until all was over. His dying request was religiously observed
+by his trusty friend, who held him in his arms till he breathed his
+last. Seeing he could render no more assistance there, King returned to
+see how it was with Wills. It was all peace, for he, too, lay quietly
+asleep in the arms of Death. Beside his dead body lay his journal, in
+which he had made his last entry with his trembling hand, noting the
+aspect of the weather, and added, with a stroke of pleasantry even yet,
+that he was just like Mr. Micawber, waiting for something to turn up.
+Such was the end of William John Wills, the most amiable and
+noble-minded of Australia's explorers. His life was one of singular
+promise, and great things might have been expected from him had he not,
+unhappily, perished in his youth. He was only 27 years of age when he
+fell a sacrifice to the incompetency of others whom he served or
+trusted. The disconsolate King was now alone in the wilderness, with his
+dead leaders on either side of him. Having performed his last duties to
+the departed, as best he could, he sought and found his sable
+benefactors, who received him as one of themselves, and proved by their
+conduct that hospitality towards the distressed is a virtue which even
+savages can exercise.
+
+Having seen the last of Burke and Wills, and left King safe for the
+present in the hands of the friendly aborigines, let us return to the
+Barcoo depôt, in the hope of finding some explanation of the mystery
+which enshrouds that most unlucky centre of operations. Brahe, as has
+been already noticed, took his departure on the 21st of April, bound for
+Menindie. He had travelled only eight days when Wright was met coming
+on, _at last_, with the bulk of the supplies for the expedition. After a
+brief consultation the two leaders resolved to come on to the Barcoo
+depôt, which they reached in another eight days. Burke and party had
+been there during the interval, but as they left no external marks,
+Wright and Brahe, after a few minutes' cursory examination, concluded
+the depôt had not been visited, and almost immediately took their
+departure for Melbourne, without putting themselves to the trouble of
+opening the hole at the foot of the marked tree, where the explorers'
+letter was concealed. Again the place was left without any external
+indications for the direction of their friends, who might return, and
+when the depôt was visited by Wills, about a fortnight later, he
+concluded, in the absence of such indications, that no one had been
+there since his own party left.
+
+Almost everyone connected with this expedition is to blame in some
+degree for the disasters in which it ended. The committee at Melbourne
+went to sleep, and were aroused to vigorous action when it was too late.
+Burke and party were at fault in leaving the depôt for Mount Hopeless
+without making some external marks which might catch the eye of anyone
+who should come with supplies. Brahe and Wright were guilty of
+unpardonable neglect in finally leaving the Barcoo depôt without opening
+the _cache_, to see whether the depôt chest of provisions had been taken
+or not. But the real author of the disasters was Wright, who loitered
+four months at Menindie, while the heroic explorers were slowly dying of
+starvation. He alleged in his defence that Burke had asked him to remain
+until his own appointment was confirmed by the Melbourne committee. But
+this is extremely improbable, and is contradicted by Burke's own
+despatches. For the shortcomings of the others a tolerable excuse may be
+made, but for the cruel conduct of Wright there is neither justification
+nor defence, for all the evidence saddles him with the responsibility of
+the horrible tragedy in which this once splendid expedition closed its
+career.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XIII.
+
+SEARCH EXPEDITIONS IN QUEST OF BURKE AND WILLS.
+
+
+As time passed on and no trustworthy tidings of the missing explorers
+could be obtained, anxiety on the part of the Melbourne public became
+unbearable. An active search was demanded with an urgency which was not
+to be resisted. A manifold effort was soon put forth on an unprecedented
+scale, and in this enterprise Victoria was materially assisted by the
+sister colonies. This combined action marks the meridian of Australian
+exploration, which, when finished, left little more to be done in the
+eastern half of the continent. Within the space of two years--from 1860
+to 1862--it was crossed no fewer than six times, in as many different
+directions, by exploring parties. The search expeditions all took the
+field about the same time. Alfred Howitt was despatched from Melbourne
+on the footsteps of Burke and Wills; John M'Kinlay was sent from
+Adelaide to search the Barcoo and surrounding districts; Frederick
+Walker was commissioned to start from Rockhampton and proceed to the
+north; while William Landsborough was instructed to begin at
+Carpentaria, and examine the country to the southward as far as might be
+necessary. With a view to the support of all these parties, as
+opportunity might offer, Captain Norman was sent with the _Victoria_ to
+form a relief depôt on the Albert River, at the Gulf of Carpentaria.
+There are thus four search expeditions which call for a brief review.
+
+
+I.
+
+Mr. Alfred W. Howitt, son of William and Mary Howitt, so well known to
+the literature of their country, was sent from Melbourne to the Barcoo
+(Coopers Creek), by the route which had been taken by the missing
+expedition. Near Swan Hill he met Brahe, returning with the intelligence
+that Burke and Wills had not appeared at the depôt. Proceeding by way of
+Menindie and Poria Creek the Barcoo was reached on the 8th September,
+1861, and the depôt at Fort Wills on the 13th. The _cache_, on being
+opened, was found to contain papers showing that the explorers had been
+there since returning from Carpentaria. The members of the expedition
+having thereafter dispersed in different directions in quest of
+information, one of them soon came back with the welcome news that King
+had been found. The sequel had better be given in Howitt's own
+words:--"I immediately went across to the blacks' wurleys, where I found
+King, sitting in a hut which the natives had made for him. He presented
+a melancholy appearance, wasted as a shadow, and hardly to be
+distinguished as a civilized being but by the remnant of clothes upon
+him. He seemed exceedingly weak, and I found it occasionally difficult
+to follow what he said. The natives were all gathered round, seated on
+the ground, looking with a most gratified and delighted expression. I
+camped where the party had halted, on a high bank, close to the water,
+and shall probably remain here ten days, to recruit King before
+returning." The story, as given by King, is soon told. From the time he
+saw his companions dead to the day he was discovered by Howitt's party
+he had been about two months and ten days in the wilderness. He remained
+by himself some days before going to the blacks. Upwards of two months
+had thus been spent with the aborigines. Though desiring to be quit of
+him at first, they afterwards became very well reconciled to his
+company. On the whole they behaved very well to the white stranger. As
+soon as King was able to walk he proceeded seven miles down the creek
+with the relief party, and showed them the remains of Wills, which he
+had buried under the sand. At a distance of about eight miles further
+they found also the body of Burke, which was now interred with due
+solemnity. The object of the expedition having been thus accomplished,
+preparation was made for the return to Melbourne, but before starting
+the camp of the natives was again visited, and some presents
+distributed, in acknowledgment of their humane treatment of the forlorn
+King.
+
+Soon after this party returned home, a second expedition was organized,
+under the same leader, to bring the bodies of Burke and Wills to
+Melbourne. After reaching the Barcoo, a considerable time was spent in
+the further exploration of the surrounding country. The Stony Desert
+was visited, and a horse captured which had been lost by Captain Sturt
+18 or 19 years before. Having at length taken possession of the bodies,
+they first conveyed them to Adelaide, by the route which the explorers,
+when living, had wished in vain to travel. This part of the journey was
+traversed in seven days. The remains of the two men who had been the
+first to cross Australia were thence conveyed to Melbourne, where they
+were interred with every mark of respect for their noble characters, and
+many a token of regret for the neglect which had left them to perish in
+the wilderness.
+
+
+II.
+
+Although the object which called forth all the search expeditions was
+completely attained by the first alone, it is yet worth while to give
+some attention to the other three, on account of their indirect services
+in the work of exploration. We shall take next in order the South
+Australian effort. On the 16th of August, 1861, Mr. John M'Kinlay was
+despatched from Adelaide, with a party of 10 men, 4 camels, 24 horses,
+12 bullocks, and 100 sheep. Blanchewater, 400 miles distant, was crossed
+at Baker's station. The journey thence to Lake Hope was made through a
+dry and stony country. From this part all the way to Sturt's Stony
+Desert the country was poor, but contained an abundance of lakes and
+creeks, which were well supplied with fish. Leaving a depôt at Lake
+Buchanan, M'Kinlay set out for the Barcoo, again passing through a
+region of lakes. In the country now visited a number of natives were
+found wearing pieces of European clothing. A white man's grave was
+pointed out by the blacks and opened by the explorers. It was really
+Gray's grave, but they were as yet in ignorance of the true facts of the
+case, and were, moreover, grossly misled by the aborigines, who pointed
+to a lake and told them they had killed and eaten white men there.
+M'Kinlay, hastily concluding that this must have been the end of the
+missing expedition, called the place Lake Massacre, and reported
+accordingly to the authorities at Adelaide. Fearing that they intended
+to make the like quick despatch with himself and party, M'Kinlay
+commanded his men to fire upon them, which made the whole lot decamp.
+This was an unfortunate misapprehension, for the blacks, instead of
+meaning to be hostile, were only giving expression to their joy after a
+fashion of their own. It was, in fact, the same tribe that had treated
+King so well, and they must have been terribly surprised by such an
+abrupt termination to friendly intercourse. But, in the presence of such
+strangers as they had encountered, it was a risky thing to boast of
+killing and eating white men. Having returned to the depôt on Lake
+Buchanan, and thence sent to Blanchewater for supplies, M'Kinlay
+received correct information regarding the fate of the missing
+expedition. There was, therefore, no need of doing anything more in this
+connection; but, being well supplied with all necessaries, he wisely
+resolved to continue his journey of exploration across the continent. On
+the 17th of December they were again on the march, heading in a
+north-easterly direction, which led them through a country barren in
+soil, but abounding in lakes much frequented by waterfowl. These lakes
+were quite as much a distinguishing feature of this region as the
+springs had been of the country discovered by M'Douall Stuart to the
+east of Lake Eyre--soon to be noticed. Further travelling was rendered
+difficult, first by excessive rain, and next by intolerable heat.
+Christmas Day was spent at a splendid lake, called Jeannie, which was
+found to be the haunt of innumerable waterfowl. Here many natives were
+observed pounding the nardoo seed between two stones, which was then
+baked and roasted on the ashes. At this camping-ground good feed was
+found for the stock, and the men also were supplied with abundance of
+fish by the blacks. During the night their sable neighbours proved
+rather too noisy, but when a rocket was sent up it had the effect of
+causing a dead silence till morning. The next stage led on to another
+lake, but it was through a country containing little vegetation except
+polygonum, samphire, and saltbush. One journey more brought them to a
+magnificent lake, which M'Kinlay called the Hodgkinson, after the second
+leader of the expedition. A three-days' excursion from this centre ended
+in the discovery of quite a number of lakes, abounding in excellent
+fish. The expedition had now spent four months in a region of lakes,
+full or dry, with many creeks and flooded hollows. This was a great
+surprise in a country which bordered so closely on Sturt's Stony Desert,
+and is still one of the enigmas of the physical geography of Australia.
+On the 6th of January a fresh departure was made for the north, but,
+after weeks of fruitless toil in the midst of a drought, a return had to
+be made to Lake Hodgkinson, where it was resolved to remain in camp till
+rain fell. During this enforced delay M'Kinlay, unable to brook
+idleness, took a small party and made an assault on Sturt's Stony
+Desert, intimating that he might be absent for three weeks. Four days
+proved to be quite enough, as he met with nothing but dry lakes, red
+sand-hills, and bare stones, although he had penetrated 57 miles into
+this solitude. Having returned to the camp there was nothing but the
+unpleasant experience of waiting for rain, while the provisions were
+running down with an uncomfortable rapidity. Here, too, the blacks,
+presenting themselves in companies of 400 or 500, were anything but
+agreeable neighbours. The explorers also had to put up with heat, flies,
+ill-health, and all manner of inconveniences, till the 10th of February,
+when rain came and released them from confinement. They had now to
+flounder in the mud through a country which is described as utterly bare
+of grass, like a field which had been ploughed and harrowed, but not
+sown. On the 13th an old camp of Burke's was passed, and by the 7th of
+next month Sturt's Stony Desert was left behind their backs. Towards the
+middle of March some tracts of well-grassed country were reached, and
+named the Downs of Plenty. During the remainder of this month, also,
+they traversed a tolerably good country, which seemed, however, to be
+bordered by deserts. Tropical Australia was now entered upon, and during
+the whole of April the course lay through the most luxuriant vegetation.
+About the beginning of May the track of Burke on the Cloncurry was
+crossed. The Leichhardt River was reached during the same month. Here
+the country was simply magnificent, the grass being up to the horses'
+necks. Another stage brought the expedition to Stokes's Plains of
+Promise. Finally, on the 18th, they advanced to the tidal waters of the
+Gulf of Carpentaria, but dense forests of mangrove forbade their
+approach to the shore. Under date of the 19th of May, and while resting
+in the 60th camp, M'Kinlay wrote as follows:--"I consider we are now
+about four or five miles from the coast. There is a rise in the river
+here of six and two-thirds feet to-day, but yesterday it was a foot
+higher. Killed the three remaining sheep, and will retrace our steps on
+the 21st." These were the last of the 100 sheep which were started with
+the expedition. M'Kinlay had the credit of being the first to take sheep
+across the continent of Australia. They now made for the coast of the
+Pacific, which was struck at Port Denison, but not till a thousand
+obstacles were overcome and nearly all the camels and horses eaten to
+keep themselves alive.
+
+
+III.
+
+On the same errand Mr. Frederick Walker, Commander of Native Police, was
+sent from Rockhampton to the Albert River by the Queensland authorities.
+Taking a party of mounted troopers, he proceeded to Bauhinia Downs, on
+the Dawson, where the expedition was finally organized on the 7th
+September, 1861. The River Nogoa was reached on the 16th, after which he
+pushed on through Walker's Pass to the River Nivelle. By the 27th he had
+made the Barcoo, which was followed down for three days, during which
+traces both of Gregory and Leichhardt were discovered. From the Barcoo a
+passage was made to the Alice through much spinifex country. After
+crossing the watershed between the Alice and the Thomson, a fine
+tributary of the latter, called the Coreenda, was met with. By the 16th
+of October they had got into a country of high mountains, where the
+natives were observed to be armed with iron axes and tomahawks. Some
+traces of Leichhardt were also found in this quarter. The advance was
+now continued through a hilly country in a north-west direction to lat.
+21°, where they fell in with the head-waters of the Barkly, a large
+tributary, or a main section, of the Flinders River, which led them
+through splendid country. Another fine tributary of the Flinders was
+soon after discovered, and called the Norman, in honour of the captain
+of that name who was in command of the depôt on the Albert. Nothing
+further of special interest occurred till the 30th of October, when
+they were attacked by a large party of armed natives. Walker commanded
+his men to fire upon them, when a dozen of these unfortunate creatures
+fell under his guns. There is reason to fear that the leader's
+experience as an officer of black troopers had led him to hold the lives
+of the aborigines too cheap and to forget that they were human beings,
+of the same blood and brotherhood as ourselves. The explorers now
+followed the Norman River, but had to dig in its channel for water. On
+the 25th of November they reached the junction of the Norman and the
+Flinders, the latter of which being a large and beautiful river. Here
+the track of Burke and Wills was discovered, leading south, but could
+not be followed till fresh supplies were obtained from the depôt on the
+Albert. Early in December the expedition came on to the Leichhardt, and
+then to the Albert River, the latter flowing over plains and flooded low
+flats, where the tracks of several other explorers were seen. On the 7th
+the depôt was reached and found to be under the superintendence of
+Captain Norman. Walker had thus made the journey in three months and
+twelve days from Rockhampton. In point of celerity, our annals of
+exploration contain nothing to beat this record. After passing thirteen
+days at the depôt, Walker started anew to follow up the track of Burke
+and Wills which he had been fortunate enough to discover. He succeeded
+in running it southward to the ninth camp of the missing expedition,
+when it ceased to be discernible, in consequence of the abundance of
+vegetation and the obliterating action of floods. Thinking Burke had
+turned off to make for the east coast, Walker altered his course to the
+same quarter, and made a vain attempt to follow him up. After much
+harassing travel he struck the Burdekin River, at Strathalbyn station,
+where his troubles came to an end. Making next for Port Denison, he
+proceeded thence to Rockhampton, which was reached on the 5th of June.
+The journey had thus occupied five months and two weeks. Burke and Wills
+were not found, of course, but much good country was discovered and the
+geography of Northern Australia materially advanced.
+
+
+IV.
+
+The last of these efforts to bring relief to the missing explorers was
+Mr. William Landsborough's expedition. The honour of being a _search_
+party has frequently been denied to this enterprise. Landsborough was
+plainly accused of having interested objects in view; and it must be
+confessed that his journal contains little to refute this charge, for it
+scarcely ever alludes to Burke and Wills, nor would any reader be likely
+to suspect that its author was in search of anyone in particular. Be
+this as it may, in cannot be doubted that, in all other respects, this
+expedition was a most fortunate one, and excelled all the rest in the
+extent of fine country which it brought to light. To the leader himself
+it must have seemed more like a vacation tour than a perilous journey
+through an unknown land. With a party of three white men and three
+blacks, Landsborough sailed from Moreton Bay to Carpentaria on the 24th
+of August, 1861. Starting from the shores of the Gulf, he explored the
+Albert River, under different names, for about 120 miles. This tract of
+country being exceedingly dry, and the blacks troublesome, he was
+compelled to return to the depôt on the Albert. Captain Norman told him
+that Walker had been there reporting the discovery of Burke's track on
+the Flinders. This route was accordingly followed from the Gulf to the
+source of the river, but neither the tracks of Walker nor Burke were
+found. After leaving the Flinders, the Thomson was followed, and then
+Cooper's Creek (Barcoo) was reached on the 19th of April. From this
+position to the settled districts a route was found without
+difficulty--indeed, with great ease to Landsborough. On the 21st of May,
+being 103 days from the start, Williams's station, on the Warrego, was
+reached, where intelligence was first received regarding the fate of
+Burke and Wills. The remainder of the journey across the continent was
+made by the Darling River and Menindie to Melbourne. It proved of the
+highest value to the squatting interest, and led to the occupation of an
+immense extent of country for squatting purposes. After an experience of
+twenty years in Australia, Landsborough testified that the best land he
+had seen was in the district of Carpentaria.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XIV.
+
+JOHN M'DOUALL STUART'S EXPEDITIONS IN THE SOUTH, TO THE CENTRE, AND
+ACROSS THE CONTINENT.
+
+
+The brave adventurer who is next to engage our attention must be placed
+in the front rank of explorers. John M'Douall Stuart was excelled by
+none, and equalled by few, in the special qualities which command
+success in the arduous enterprise to which he devoted his life. As a
+practical bushman he probably stands without a rival. From first to last
+he spent over twenty years in the exploration of Australia, during which
+time he was the leader of six expeditions, in all of which he made
+important discoveries, and never failed to bring home his men, who had
+put their lives in his keeping. He first served under a great master,
+Captain Sturt, whom he accompanied in the capacity of draughtsman to the
+expedition which started for the centre of Australia in 1844. His own
+responsible and eminently successful labours in the same field will be
+sketched in the sequel. It is not too much to claim for M'Douall Stuart
+the palm of martyrdom in the cause which lay so near his heart. It is
+true that after his work was done he was not left without honours, and
+also rewards, both in land and money, but by that time he had lost the
+capacity for enjoying any of these things. From his last journey he
+returned, or rather was carried, more dead than alive, racked with the
+pains of scurvy, contracted in the centre of the continent, which he was
+the first to discover. He subsequently rallied a little, but never
+recovered his health, and died in England in 1869.
+
+
+I.
+
+The first of Stuart's journeys was undertaken on the solicitation, and
+also at the expense, of his friend Mr. Wm. Finke, and had for its object
+the discovery of new pastoral country in the unknown territory to the
+west and north-west of Lake Torrens. On the 10th of June, 1858, Stuart
+started from Mount Eyre with only two men, a white man and a
+blackfellow, taking with him a small complement of horses and a too
+scanty allowance of provisions. The first section of the journey, which
+was rugged and sterile, lay to the west of Lake Torrens, whose surface
+was occasionally sighted. Water was found at moderate distances on this
+part of the route, but the rough and stony country proved a serious
+difficulty to the horses, which were imperfectly shod. This contingency
+had been strangely overlooked, and no shoes had been provided for the
+journey. The blackfellow, who was supposed to know this country
+intimately, soon got bewildered, and proved of no service for the
+purpose he was intended to forward. The leader, being thus thrown upon
+his own resources, was also greatly inconvenienced in shaping his
+course by the frequent and extraordinary illusions of the mirage of the
+desert. Referring to one of these perplexing occasions he says:--"I
+think we have now made the dip of the country toward the south, but the
+mirage is so powerful that little bushes appear like great gum-trees,
+which makes it very difficult to judge what is before us; it is almost
+as bad as travelling in the dark. I never saw it so bright or so
+continuous as it is now; one would think the whole country was under
+water." Failing to obtain the object of his search in the north-west,
+Stuart now directed his journey to the south and east, exploring the
+central region between Lake Torrens and Lake Gairdner. In this quarter
+some small patches of fairly good country were found, but the water, in
+the few places where it was met with, proved to be as bitter as the sea.
+The blackfellow now, thinking it time to shift for himself, took the way
+that pleased him best, leaving only the white man, Foster, to assist
+Stuart in the thick of his difficulties. Hope of a successful issue to
+their labours was now fast ebbing from the breasts of these indomitable
+adventurers. After journeying hither and thither for 1,000 miles, they
+had failed in the prime object of the expedition, their provisions were
+rapidly disappearing, and the horses were too footsore to travel an
+ordinary day's march. At this stage the monotony of the scene was broken
+by a high mountain coming into view, which Stuart named Mount Finke, and
+from the summit of which he ventured to hope for a better prospect, or,
+if not, to alter his course. "If I see nothing from the top of the mount
+to-morrow," said he, "I must turn down to Fowler's Bay for water for the
+horses.... As I could not remain quiet, I got on one of the lower spurs
+of Mount Finke to see what was before me. The prospect is gloomy in the
+extreme. I could see a long distance, but nothing met the eye but a
+dense scrub, as black and dismal as midnight." From this mount,
+accordingly, a straight course was steered to the sea-coast, during
+which every camping-place is marked on the map by the name of "desert."
+In the matter of provisions, they had for some time been reduced to one
+meal a day, and toward the close of the journey it was found that only
+two more remained to carry them a distance of 100 miles. In this dire
+extremity they were glad to feed on kangaroo mice, which, happily, were
+here to be found in great abundance. They are described as elegant
+little creatures, about four inches in length, of the shape of a
+kangaroo, with a tail terminating in a sort of brush. By means of this
+resource against starvation the explorers were enabled to cross the
+remaining stages of the desert, and so reached the habitations of
+civilized men.
+
+
+II.
+
+Mr. Stuart was the first explorer who reached the centre of Australia.
+The journey which led to this memorable achievement is worthy of
+detailed narration; but before entering upon this story it may be
+proper to say a few words on two preliminary essays in exploration,
+which, in some measure, opened the way to this much-desired result.
+
+About six months after his return from his first expedition, this
+indefatigable explorer started on a new journey to examine the extensive
+territory lying to the north of Lake Torrens and the east of Lake Eyre.
+This country proved, in some respects, a surprise to Australian
+discovery. It turned out to be unusually well watered, being furrowed at
+moderate intervals by a series of creeks, some of which were entitled to
+the name of rivers. But its most astonishing feature consisted in the
+myriads of springs, in groups ranging from two or three to more than a
+dozen in number. Some of these sent forth a stream of water which might
+have turned a mill-wheel, and continued to run a mile from the source.
+From this circumstance the whole territory has, not inaptly, been called
+the "spring" country. Another dominant feature was seen in the
+extraordinary abundance of quartz reefs, many of which bore plain
+indications of being auriferous, but, of course, could not be fairly
+tested by any appliances which were then to hand. Towards the close of
+the same year (1859) another journey was made to this part of Australia,
+when more accurate surveys were obtained, and the boundaries of a number
+of squatting runs laid down. In both of these expeditions important
+service was rendered to the better knowledge of this country, but they
+were especially valuable as furnishing Stuart with an advanced
+starting-point for his heroic project of crossing the continent from
+south to north. This arduous, but happily successful, enterprise will
+now be described in its main outlines.
+
+This expedition, which consisted of only three men and thirteen horses,
+set out on the 2nd of March, 1860, from Chambers's Creek, a valuable
+water supply which had been discovered by Stuart in 1858. For some time
+his course lay through an extensive tract of country which, though yet
+unoccupied, had become well known to this, its first explorer. Toward
+the northern part they followed the River Neale, which furnished plenty
+of water, and led them into the unknown country. The next important
+creeks to be discovered and crossed were the Hamilton, the Stephenson,
+and the Finke. After crossing the latter there began to heave into sight
+a strange and striking mountain structure, which presented the
+appearance of a locomotive engine with its funnel. "We proceeded," says
+the journal, "towards this remarkable pillar through heavy sand-hills
+covered with spinifex, and, at 12 miles from last night's camp, arrived
+at it. It is a pillar of sandstone, standing on a hill upwards of 100
+feet high. From the base of the pillar to its top is about 150 feet,
+quite perpendicular, and it is 20 feet wide by 10 feet deep, with two
+small peaks on the top. I have named it Chambers's Pillar, in honour of
+James Chambers, Esq., who has been my great supporter in all my
+explorations." Much good country had been traversed before this point
+was reached; indeed, the whole of this route was a surprise in this
+respect, as it had been expected to land them in a great central desert.
+Instead of finding a barren wilderness, the continuation of the journey
+brought them into another splendid tract, watered by a creek named the
+Hugh, which, after being followed for a long distance, terminated in a
+high mountain-chain. To scale its rugged flanks and penetrate the dense
+thickets of mulga proved to be a most formidable task, their clothes and
+skin being torn in forcing a passage through the living and the dead
+timber. This range--the James--was succeeded by two other chains, which
+were named the Waterhouse and the M'Donnell Ranges, the latter of which
+have since become a well-known landmark in the history of more recent
+explorations. Stuart thus describes the view he obtained from the north
+gorge of these mountains:--"From the foot of this for about five miles
+is an open grassy country, with a few small patches of bushes. A number
+of gum-tree creeks come from the ranges and seem to empty themselves in
+the plains. The country in the ranges is as fine a pastoral hill-country
+as a man could wish to possess--grass to the top of the hills, and
+abundance of water through the whole of the ranges." Still heading
+northward, the expedition reached a position, on the 22nd of April,
+which is very memorable in the annals of Australia. The goal which had
+proved the incitement to so many sacrifices during a long period of our
+history was now reached at last. Mr. Stuart was standing in the centre
+of the continent. This achievement, of which he might well have been
+proud, is intimated by the following modest entry in his diary:--"To-day
+I find by my observation of the sun--111° 0' 30''--that I am now camped
+in the centre of Australia. I have marked a tree and planted the British
+flag there. There is a high mount about two miles and a half to
+north-north-east. I wish it had been in the centre; but on it,
+to-morrow, I will raise a cone of stones and plant the flag there and
+name it Central Mount Stuart." This ceremony was performed on the day
+following, when a fine view was obtained from the summit of this, high
+mountain. The aspect of the central region of Australia must have been a
+surprise to the first discoverer, for it falsified the prophecies of
+half a century. The centre of Australia was as much a matter of
+curiosity and conjecture in our early history as the North Pole is at
+the present time. Oxley was first in the field, with his pet theory of
+an inland sea. This conjecture received its quietus from Sturt, but it
+was only to make room for the opposite fallacy of a stony desert. Now,
+at last, when the veil was lifted and the reality disclosed, it turned
+out to be just that which nobody had prophesied and few had ventured to
+expect. It was simply a fine country, abounding in grass, and fairly
+supplied with water. Both now and afterwards it was used by Stuart as a
+recruiting-ground for his toil-worn expedition. Leaving part of his
+little force here for the present, the leader made a tentative effort
+to ascertain whether there was any practicable route out west to the
+Victoria River. Finding none, he returned, and kept steering his former
+course. As if the centre had been the natural goal of the journey, he
+met with nothing but difficulties in the attempt to penetrate further to
+the north. He himself had fallen a victim to scurvy, which was only
+slightly relieved by the native cucumber, his only resource. Water
+became even harder to find. The horses, also, which were too much of the
+cart breed, did not well stand a hard pinch. Above all, the blacks, who
+had never been friendly, became the more hostile the further the
+expedition advanced. The crisis was reached when they made an encampment
+on Attack Creek. Here the aborigines set fire to the grass, and tried
+every stratagem to separate the explorers from their horses, after which
+there would soon have been an end to the expedition. Failing in this
+device, they next mustered their forces and attacked the strangers in
+the proportion of ten to one. Even so, they had to come off second best
+for the time being. Nevertheless, Stuart deemed it scarcely prudent to
+oppose himself to a tribe of warlike blacks in the centre of Australia,
+with an army consisting of two men, all told, himself being
+commander-in-chief. Nothing further remained but to submit to the
+inevitable, which he accordingly did, and returned to the most northern
+settlements of South Australia.
+
+
+III.
+
+Mr. Stuart reached Adelaide in October, 1860. When it became known that
+he had encamped in the centre of Australia and pushed his way
+considerably further north, the public enthusiasm again rose to fever
+heat in the cause of exploration. The Parliament, which never failed in
+its duty in this business, again came forward with a vote of £2,500 to
+provide for another and a larger expedition, which was speedily
+organized, with the old and well-tried explorer for its leader. He took
+with him seven men, thirty horses, and thirty weeks' provisions. The
+former route was followed, with a little deviation, as far as Attack
+Creek, the scene of the previous repulse. In all his journeys Stuart had
+the shrewdness to search out and follow up mountain-systems, as being
+the physical conformation most likely to furnish the needful supply of
+water. Still on the look-out for this good fortune, Attack Creek had not
+been far left in the rear when an elevated chain--the Whittington
+Range--was discovered, and followed for a long distance. It led them on
+to Tomkinson's Creek, containing a large supply of water, which
+served as a base for immediate operations, and was afterwards
+turned to good account as a retreat in time of difficulty. Another
+mountain-system--named the Warburton--was met with in the next stage of
+the journey. Like the former, it was heading too much to the north to
+suit Stuart's intention of making for the Victoria River, on the
+western coast. Breaking away from the mountains, repeated attempts were
+made to find a route in the required direction. The high lands soon
+shaded away into an interminable, but very fertile champaign country,
+which received the name of Sturt's Plains, in honour of the "father of
+Australian exploration." But it proved to be absolutely arid, and
+blocked on all sides by impenetrable scrubs, varied only by low red
+sand-hills. Through these impervious scrubs, on the west, a passage
+would have to be forced, or the expedition must end in failure. The
+latter alternative was not to be thought of till every expedient had
+been exhausted. Leaving a portion of his force in the depôt, Stuart,
+three several times, started with a light party to pierce his way
+through the most forbidding obstacles he had ever experienced in his
+journeys. It was with the greatest difficulty the horses could be
+brought to face this formidable barrier; and when forced to do so, the
+animals were injured and the explorers' clothes torn to shreds. It was
+hard to persevere in the face of such sacrifices; yet it was done
+manfully enough, and might have been crowned with success but for the
+absolute failure of water. The furthest point reached in these assaults
+on the impervious west was only a hundred miles distant from Gregory's
+last camp on the Camfield; and if this short space could have been
+bridged over the final aim of the expedition would have been easily
+attained. To accomplish this object, Stuart did all that man could do in
+such a situation. Nothing could be more admirable than the pluck and
+perseverance displayed in this conflict with the impossible. But he,
+too, like all mortals, had to yield to stern necessity. With a heavy
+heart he turned his back on the coveted north-west and retreated to the
+old camping-ground on the Tomkinson. Even yet unwilling to leave any
+alternative untried, he now modified his plan, and proposed to strike
+north for the Gulf of Carpentaria, if such a course might be possible.
+This, unhappily, it proved not to be. His path was effectually barred in
+this direction also. After the most desperate effort nothing remained
+but to abandon the enterprise and return to the haunts of civilization.
+The following entry in his journal shows with how much regret this
+retreat was forced upon him:--"It certainly is a great disappointment to
+me not to be able to get through, but I believe I have left nothing
+untried that has been in my power. I have tried to make the Gulf and the
+river (Victoria) both before rain fell and immediately after it had
+fallen, but the results were the same--_unsuccessful_. I shall commence
+my homeward journey to-morrow morning. The horses have had a severe
+trial from the long journeys they have made, and the great hardships and
+privations they have undergone. On my last journey they were one hundred
+and six hours without water." So ended this second heroic effort to
+cross the continent. Notwithstanding his defeat, Stuart had succeeded in
+penetrating one hundred miles beyond the furthest point reached on the
+previous journey. His most advanced position was lat. 17° long. 133°.
+
+
+IV.
+
+Now, at last, we are to see the reward of perseverance. If Fortune has
+any favour for the brave, it was time to smile on John M'Douall Stuart.
+Two noble efforts had ended in failure, but this third attempt was to be
+crowned with complete success, and land the explorer on the much-coveted
+shores of the Indian Ocean. A month had not elapsed since his return
+from the second journey when the Government of South Australia
+despatched him on his third and final expedition. Being provided with
+reinforcements, he left the settled districts in January, 1862, and by
+the 8th of April had reached Newcastle Water, the most northern
+camping-ground of the former journey. Without loss of time he made a
+renewed attempt to pierce the north-western scrub and carve his way to
+the Victoria River. But again his Herculean struggles proved to be only
+wasted effort. This route was accordingly abandoned, finally and for
+ever, as being absolutely impracticable. The line of march was now
+directed to the north, with a view of cutting the track of Leichhardt's
+and Gregory's discoveries, and thus gaining the Roper River, which
+enters the Gulf of Carpentaria. This new project proved more easy in the
+accomplishment than he had ventured to expect. There were, of course,
+stubborn obstacles to be overcome; but water, the great requirement,
+was found at manageable intervals, bringing the party on, by a
+succession of ponds, first to the Daly Waters, and thence to an
+important river, which was named the Strangway. This bridge over the
+wilderness conducted them to the much-desired Roper River. It is
+described as a noble stream, draining a magnificent country, and
+exceeding in volume any the explorers had hitherto seen. This clue
+having been followed in the direction of its source, led the expedition
+a long way towards its destination on the shores of the Indian Ocean.
+After it failed them by turning too far to the north, only a short
+intervening tract had to be crossed before the Adelaide River, one of
+the known western streams, was reached. Again the route lay through some
+of the finest country in Australia, containing much that was new both in
+flora and fauna. The valley of this river was constantly revealing to
+the eyes of the strangers some botanical surprise--giant bamboos,
+fairy-like palms, and magnificent water-lilies on the placid bosom of
+its longer reaches. There was only one drawback, and that a rather
+serious one. It was the paradise of mosquitoes, which made a common prey
+of the intruders, allowing them no rest by night, and leaving mementos
+of their attachment that could not be forgotten during the day. But
+through pleasure and pain the expedition pushed on towards the
+attainment of its purpose. The leader so managed the last stage as to
+make the conclusion of the journey a surprise to his men. He knew the
+ocean to be near at hand, but kept the good news a secret till his party
+should be in a position to behold it with their own eyes. "At eight
+miles and a half," says he, "we came upon a broad valley of black
+alluvial soil, covered with long grass. From this I can hear the wash of
+the sea. On the other side of the valley, which is rather more than a
+quarter of a mile wide, is growing a line of thick heavy bushes, very
+dense, showing that to be the boundary of the beach. Crossed the valley
+and entered the scrub, which was a complete network of vines. Stopped
+the horses to clear a way, while I advanced a few yards on the beach,
+and was gratified and delighted to behold the waters of the Indian
+Ocean, in Van Diemen's Gulf, before the party with the horses knew
+anything of its proximity. Thring, who rode in advance of me, called out
+'The sea!' which so took them all by surprise, and they were so
+astonished, that he had to repeat the call before they fully understood
+what was meant. They then immediately gave three long and hearty
+cheers.... I dipped my feet and washed my hands, as I had promised the
+late Governor, Sir Richard McDonnell, I would do if I reached it. Thus I
+have, through the instrumentality of Divine Providence, been led to
+accomplish the great object of the expedition, and to take the whole
+party safely as witnesses to the fact, and through one of the finest
+countries man could wish to behold. From Newcastle Water to the
+sea-beach the main body of the horses have been only one night without
+water, and then got it the next day." The Union Jack was now hoisted,
+and near the foot of a marked tree there was buried, in a tin, a paper
+containing the following inscription:--"The exploring party under the
+command of John M'Douall Stuart arrived at this spot on the 25th day of
+July, 1862, having crossed the entire continent of Australia, from the
+Southern to the Indian Ocean, passing through the centre. They left the
+city of Adelaide on the 26th day of October, 1861, and the most northern
+station of the colony on the 21st day of January, 1862. To commemorate
+this happy event they have raised this flag, bearing his name. All well.
+God save the Queen!" Burke and Wills had crossed the same continent to
+the Gulf of Carpentaria nearly eighteen months earlier, but this
+achievement in no way detracts from the merit of Stuart's success, for
+his journey was entirely independent of their, or any other, expedition.
+The felicitous termination of this splendid enterprise marks a principal
+era in the history of Australian exploration. It led directly to three
+important results--the annexation of the northern territory to South
+Australia, the establishment of a colonial settlement at Port Darwin,
+and the construction of the transcontinental telegraph along almost the
+whole route of this expedition.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XV.
+
+COLONEL WARBURTON'S JOURNEY ACROSS THE WESTERN INTERIOR.
+
+
+M'Douall Stuart's crowning feat in exploration was soon turned to good
+account. The idea of a transcontinental telegraph now passed from the
+realms of Utopia and became a realized fact. The commercial interests of
+Australia had been urgently in need of communication with the
+Indo-European lines already existing, but the great desert of the
+interior was believed to interpose an impenetrable barrier. Now, at
+last, this misconception, which had been founded on ignorance, was
+removed by Stuart, who discovered a belt of good country stretching
+across the interior and reaching to the Indian Ocean. Along this route,
+with few deviations, the line runs from the Adelaide extension in the
+south to Port Darwin in the north. In this most creditable enterprise,
+which was completed in 1872, South Australia spent £370,000, and
+rendered excellent service to the exploration, as well as to the
+commercial interests, of Australia. Here was a new base-line for
+explorers, intersecting the continent from end to end. This advantage
+was not long in being put to practical use. In South Australia the
+question of further exploration began to be agitated as soon as the line
+was opened. The Government was importuned for means to provide for an
+expedition to cut through the western interior, starting from the
+telegraph line at the centre of the continent. No aid was obtained from
+this quarter; nevertheless, the projected tour of discovery did not fall
+through, for two private gentlemen, the Hon. Thomas Elder and Mr. W. W.
+Hughes, now came forward and offered to bear the expense of the
+expedition. The next important step was the choice of a leader, who was
+happily found in Colonel P. E. Warburton. This brave man was born in
+Cheshire, England, in 1813. He was early trained for the military
+profession, and served in India from 1831 to 1853. About the latter date
+he came out to South Australia, where he was appointed Commissioner of
+Police, and subsequently held the position of Commandant of the
+volunteer forces till 1874. During these later years he had been engaged
+in several essays in exploration, in which he rendered good service to
+his country and prepared himself for the perilous, but successful,
+journey with which his name will ever be associated.
+
+The proper starting-point for the expedition was fixed for Alice
+Springs, a station on the overland telegraph, situated almost in the
+centre of Australia; and it was the leader's intention to make for the
+city of Perth, in the west, by the most direct course that could be
+found--a purpose which came to be considerably modified under the
+pressure of a terrible necessity. The rendezvous, 1,120 miles distant
+from Adelaide, was reached by way of Beltana, along a route now
+beginning to be pretty well known, and all was prepared for the start by
+the 15th of April, 1873. The expedition, now first in the line of march,
+consisted of Colonel Warburton as leader, R. Warburton (his son), J. W.
+Lewis, D. White, two Afghans, and a black boy. The only beasts of burden
+were camels, which amounted to seventeen in number, and the supply of
+provisions was calculated to last for six months. The route for a short
+distance northward kept the line of the telegraph, till the Burt Creek
+was reached, after which it deflected toward the west. The difficulties
+which beset this journey began at the beginning and continued to its
+close, only increasing in severity with terrible consistency. Want of
+water compelled them again and again to retreat to former encampments,
+thus causing a great part of the route to be travelled over two or three
+times. From this cause the eastern boundary of South Australia had to be
+crossed three times before permanent progress could be made in the
+proper course. From first to last the country proved to be a barren
+waste, without creek or river affording a supply of water. In the
+earlier part of the journey an occasional oasis was met with containing
+permanent lakelets, at which the explorers would gladly have lingered to
+recruit themselves and rest the camels; but this delay meant consumption
+of the provisions, which it soon became evident were too scanty from the
+first. Warburton wisely resolved to feel his way as he proceeded through
+the desert by sending scouts in advance to search for water. This was
+seldom found, except in extremely sparse wells, which were used by the
+aborigines, and sometimes indicated by the smoke of their camps, but in
+hardly a single instance was direct information obtained from the
+blacks. The native wells in the sand not unusually indicated, rather
+than contained, water, and had often to be excavated to much greater
+depth. In this way, for the most part, was the desert crossed. When
+water was announced, an advance was made one stage further and a search
+party again sent out. It often happened that no water could be found by
+the scouts after the most exhausting search, further progress being thus
+rendered impossible. In these cases there was no help for it but to
+change the direction, as far as their object would permit, and seek
+another tentative route. This was indescribably trying to their spirits,
+but the other alternative was to perish in the sand. On some few
+occasions the clouds came to their relief and burst in thunderstorms.
+Even when only a slight shower fell, a few buckets of water were secured
+by spreading a tarpaulin on the ground. On the 9th of May a deep glen
+was found in a range of hills. Here was an excellent supply of water,
+shaded by basalt rocks, rising to the height of 300 ft. Here, too, the
+weary wanderers rested for a few days, as also at Waterloo Wells, a
+little ahead, for which they had to pay a penalty in the permanent loss
+of four camels, which suddenly decamped. They were tracked for a hundred
+miles, but never recovered. Hitherto their progress had been slow and
+discouraging. They had travelled 1,700 miles, but were yet at no great
+distance from Alice Springs. Nor was the outlook any more encouraging.
+Day after day it was the same weary journeying over spinifex ridges and
+sandy valleys, without any indication of the fine country they had hoped
+to discover; but, to their credit be it said, no one even hinted about
+giving up the enterprise. By the 17th of August a notable stage in their
+progress was reached. Warburton ascertained that he could not be more
+than ten miles distant from the most southern point reached by Mr. A. C.
+Gregory in 1856. The Colonel ascended a neighbouring hill to see if he
+could catch a glimpse of Termination Lake, into which Sturt's Creek had
+been found to empty itself. This salt lake was concealed by a range of
+sand-hills; but Warburton verified his position, and thus had virtually
+connected his own survey from the centre with the Gregory discoveries in
+the north. Advancing slowly, but surely, towards the west, a fine
+freshwater lake was discovered on the 30th. It abounded in waterfowl,
+which were more easily shot than recovered, as they had no means of
+reaching them in the water. From this point onward their troubles began
+to thicken with ominous rapidity. Eight of the seventeen camels were
+gone, while the stock of provisions, too, began to appear uncomfortably
+small, and had to be dealt out with a niggardly hand. It now became
+evident to the Colonel that the original plan of proceeding to Perth
+was impracticable, and he resolved to head further to the north, so as
+to strike the Oakover River and save the expedition. Their troubles were
+truly most afflicting in this great and terrible wilderness. The heat
+and toil of travelling wore them out by day, and myriads of black ants
+deprived them of their sleep at night. They were now living on camels'
+flesh, dried in the sun, the only sauce being an occasional bird which
+fell to their guns. By the 2nd of November they had been reduced to dire
+extremity, both of famine and thirst. The Oakover was estimated to be
+about 150 miles distant, and it was resolved to make a rush for it,
+taking their chance of an accidental discovery of water to keep them in
+life, for it was now a question of mere life and death. Respecting this
+latter and awfully perilous stage of the journey, it will be better to
+let Colonel Warburton speak for himself. The following extracts are from
+the entries in his journal as made during the crisis of his sufferings,
+when hope was fast giving place to despair:--"We killed our last meat on
+the 20th October; a large bull camel has, therefore, fed us for three
+weeks. It must be remembered that we have had no flour, tea, or sugar,
+neither have we an atom of salt, so we cannot salt our meat. We are
+seven in all, and are living entirely upon sun-dried slips of meat which
+are as tasteless and innutritious as a piece of dead bark.... We have
+abandoned everything but our small supply of water and meat, and each
+party has a gun.... We are hemmed in on every side: every trial we make
+fails; and I can now only hope that some one or more of the party may
+reach water sooner or later. As for myself, I can see no hope of life,
+for I cannot hold up without food and water. I have given Lewis written
+instructions to justify his leaving me, should I die, and have made such
+arrangements as I can for the preservation of my journal and maps.... My
+party, at least, are now in that state that, unless it please God to
+save us, we cannot live more than 24 hours. We are at our last drop of
+water, and the smallest bit of dried meat chokes me. I fear my son must
+share my fate, as he refuses to leave me. God have mercy upon us, for we
+are brought very low, and by the time death reaches us we shall not
+regret exchanging our present misery for that state in which the weary
+are at rest. We have tried to do our duty, and have been disappointed in
+all our expectations. I have been in excellent health during the whole
+journey, and am so still, being merely worn out from want of food and
+water. Let no self-reproaches afflict any respecting me. I undertook
+this journey for the benefit of my family, and I was quite equal to it
+under all the circumstances that could be reasonably anticipated, but
+difficulties and losses have come upon us so thickly for the last few
+months that we have not been able to move. Thus, our provisions are
+gone; but this would not have stopped us could we have found water
+without such laborious search. The country is terrible. I do not
+believe men ever traversed so vast an extent of continuous desert." They
+were, indeed, brought to the last extreme of misery. But man's extremity
+is God's opportunity. A search party found a good well about twelve
+miles distant, which supplied all their necessities, and saved their
+lives. Another fortnight brought the forlorn wanderers to a creek with a
+good store of water at intervals. This proved to be a tributary of the
+Oakover, to the banks of which they were thus led by such stages as
+could be travelled in their deplorably emaciated condition. The
+outskirts of civilization were all but reached. The pastoral station of
+De Grey was believed to be only a few days' travelling down the river,
+and a small detachment was sent to implore succour. The distance was
+really 170 miles, and three weary weeks had to be spent in hoping
+against hope till relief arrived. Help did come in abundance, and as
+speedily as was possible in the circumstances. The toils of the
+wilderness wanderings were now over; all that remained was a terrible
+retrospect. It was reckoned they had not travelled less than 4,000
+miles, including deviations and retreats when further advance became
+impracticable through want of water. The result, looked at from an
+explorer's point of view, was, of course, a flat disappointment. Some
+had confidently expected to hear of a good pastoral country being
+discovered in the western interior which would prove a new home to the
+enterprising squatter, and be depastured by myriads of flocks and
+herds. Instead of this wished-for discovery, Colonel Warburton had to
+follow in the wake of Captain Sturt, and tell yet another tale of an
+arid desert with dreary ridges of sand succeeding each other like the
+waves of the sea--a country of no use to civilized, and very little to
+savage, man. Yet, even so, a good service had been rendered to the
+knowledge of Australian geography. Where the truth has to be known it is
+something even to reach a negative result. If the western interior is a
+desert, it is a real gain to have this fact ascertained and placed on
+record. Another question set at rest by this expedition is the
+incomparable superiority of camels in Australian exploration, in point
+of endurance and in making long stages without water. A horse requires
+to be watered every twelve hours, but a camel will go without it for ten
+or twelve days on a pinch. This was not the first time they had been
+tried in Australia. Burke and Wills started with more "ships of the
+desert" than Warburton; but the mismanagement which involved that
+enterprise in fatal disaster deprived the experiment of a fair chance of
+success. Warburton's was pre-eminently the camel expedition of
+Australia. The result justified the means. With all the aid of these
+invaluable beasts of burden the expedition, indeed, was brought to the
+very brink of ruin; but without them everyone must inevitably have
+perished.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XVI.
+
+THE HON. JOHN FORREST'S EXPLORATIONS IN WESTERN AUSTRALIA.
+
+
+This distinguished explorer is a native of West Australia, and an honour
+to his country. He is a man of ability, well educated, and thoroughly
+competent for the work to which he has devoted so much of his time and
+attention. In early life he entered the Survey Department, where his
+services were appreciated and rewarded by an appointment, in 1876, to
+the office of Deputy Surveyor-General. Mr. Forrest has gained
+imperishable laurels in the field of exploration. His services in the
+three following expeditions entitle him to a high position among the
+Australian explorers. A short notice of each is all that our space
+permits.
+
+
+I.
+
+About the close of 1868 a report reached Perth to the effect that
+natives in the eastern districts knew of a party of white men who had
+been murdered some twenty years earlier. This rumour was strongly
+confirmed by a gentleman who had penetrated into the interior in search
+of sheep-runs. He reported that his native guide had assured him he had
+been to the very spot where the murder had been committed, and had seen
+the remains of white men. His story was very circumstantial, stating
+that it was on the border of a large lake, and that the white men were
+killed while making damper. He volunteered, moreover, to conduct any
+party to the scene of the murder. The story possessed a sufficient
+likeness to truth to impose on grave and sober-minded men. Among these
+was Baron Von Mueller, of Melbourne, who organized a party to proceed to
+the spot, in the hope of finding the remains of Leichhardt's expedition.
+He intended to take the lead himself, but this purpose he had to change,
+through business engagements, and the expedition accordingly was placed
+under the command of Mr. John Forrest. The route lay to the north-east
+from Perth. The party was able to penetrate 250 miles in advance of
+former expeditions. This was, so far, another gain to the knowledge of
+Australian geography; but the new country was found to be unsuitable for
+pastoral or agricultural purposes. In regard to its principal object,
+the expedition turned out a complete failure, adding only one other
+proof of the utter worthlessness of aboriginal testimony. The
+blackfellow who had led them out with such confidence made some
+significant admissions as they proceeded on the journey. First, he had
+not, properly speaking, been at the place himself, or seen the relics,
+but had heard of them from others of the black fraternity; then, again,
+he could not be sure whether they were the bones of men or horses--more
+likely, perhaps, the latter. Finally, it was pretty clearly ascertained
+that the whole story had originated from the remains of a number of
+horses which had belonged to the explorer Austin, and were poisoned in
+that neighbourhood. No traces of Leichhardt were found in that quarter,
+nor is it at all probable that he had penetrated so far west.
+
+
+II.
+
+Almost immediately after returning from the search after Leichhardt, Mr.
+Forrest was put in command of a second expedition. Governor Weld was
+anxious to obtain a more accurate survey of the southern coast between
+Perth and Adelaide, with a view to telegraphic connection. The largest
+and most difficult part of the route lay along the Great Australian
+Bight, which had been traversed with terrible suffering by Mr. E. J.
+Eyre thirty years previously. Since that time a little more information
+had been gained, tending to lessen the horrors of travel in that
+forbidding region; and Port Eucla, a valuable harbour, had been
+discovered just within the eastern boundary of West Australia. But the
+whole of the southern country from Perth to Adelaide required to be
+examined afresh for the object which was now contemplated. Mr. John
+Forrest was easily persuaded to lead this expedition, which consisted of
+his brother, Mr. Alexander Forrest, as second in command, Police
+Constable M'Larty, a farrier, and two aboriginals. A small schooner, the
+_Adur_, was despatched, to wait with supplies at Esperance Bay,
+Israelite Bay, and Port Eucla--an arrangement which greatly lessened
+the difficulties and dangers of the expedition. After reaching the Great
+Bight the party followed, in a reverse direction, the line of Eyre's
+journey, keeping a little more inland, though they were never more than
+thirty miles from the sea. So far as the old explorer's tracks were
+followed, Forrest had the advantage of finding an occasional supply of
+water as indicated on the chart, and when he deviated from this route he
+was well rewarded by the discovery of better, and sometimes of really
+first-class country. The season, though too dry, seems to have been less
+so than when Eyre encountered the perils of this region, and for this
+reason occasional surface water was found, in very limited quantities.
+Yet on several of the long waterless stages both men and horses were
+near their last gasp in the agonies of thirst. From Port Eucla an
+attempt was made to penetrate for some distance to the north, in the
+interest of discovery. The land appeared, and has since been proved, to
+be of the best quality, but absolute want of water compelled the
+explorers to beat a retreat when they had proceeded only about thirty
+miles inland. The expedition again started on its proper course and
+rounded the head of the Bight. Soon an escort was in readiness from
+South Australia, which led them through the Gawler Ranges to the city of
+Adelaide. The party had started on the 30th of March, 1870, and their
+destination was reached on the 27th of August--not half the time Mr.
+Eyre had required for a much shorter journey. This new adventure in
+exploration was highly successful. A practicable route for the telegraph
+having been found, the line was constructed in the course of another
+year or two, thus connecting Perth with the intercolonial and also with
+the European telegraphic systems. Fine reaches of the best pastoral
+country were examined or indicated lying to the north of the wretched
+seaboard, the only drawback being the absence of permanent water. This
+difficulty is now being overcome by boring, by which means an ample
+supply is obtained at a reasonable depth. The latest proposal is to run
+a railway from Perth to Port Eucla, with probable extension to Adelaide.
+A syndicate has offered to construct it on the land-grant system,
+engineers are presently engaged on the survey, and its completion may be
+accepted as one of the great events of the near future.
+
+
+III.
+
+Mr. John Forrest's third expedition was much more arduous, as it was
+also of greater geographical importance, than either of the preceding.
+Before the transcontinental telegraph was fully completed, he proposed
+to the authorities at Perth to lead an exploring party across the centre
+of Western Australia from Champion Bay to the route of the new line, on
+condition of a grant from the Treasury of £400 for expenses, himself
+engaging to provide another £200. The proposal was gladly accepted, and
+no time was lost in making the necessary preparations. His party, as
+finally organized, consisted of Alexander Forrest, five whites, two
+aboriginals, and twenty-one horses. It being resolved to keep the line
+of the Murchison to its sources, the start was made from Geraldton,
+Champion Bay, on the 1st of April, 1874. For some time the course lay to
+the south of the river, which was not joined till the 23rd, after which
+beautifully grassed country was travelled over. The Murchison in its
+upper waters divided into several channels, causing some perplexity. One
+of these was selected, and followed as far as it served their purpose,
+and then the course was directed to the watershed. Now they found
+themselves in a dry, barren land, which afforded the scantiest supply of
+water, and only after laborious search--sometimes not even then.
+Occasionally, but only at long intervals, a good native well was
+reached, when the temptation to rest for several days was irresistible.
+To the most noted of these Mr. Forrest gave the name of the Weld
+Springs, in honour of the Governor, who ever did his utmost to forward
+the exploration of the interior. The encampment at Weld Springs was not
+an unbroken pleasure. The blacks were numerous in the neighbourhood, and
+irreconcilably hostile. Finding his party assailed with murderous
+intent, Forrest, seeing it had become a question of self-defence, fired
+upon the natives, and some blood was shed. But for this act of stern
+necessity, it is evident that the explorers must have perished. This
+pleasant spot was but an oasis in a great desert, which became the more
+inhospitable the further they penetrated into its secrets. For 600
+miles they had to thread their way through a wilderness of spinifex,
+sometimes also approaching the verge of despair through want of water,
+in search of which the scouts had always to scour the country. In this
+desert the natives were seldom seen, and still more rarely could they be
+induced to come within speaking distance. At one place they decamped on
+the first appearance of the intruders on their desert home, leaving a
+whole kangaroo roasting on the fire. This would have been quite a
+godsend for Warburton and his party, but happily the present expedition
+was never reduced to such dire necessity. In another respect, too,
+Forrest seems to have had better luck than his brother explorers. During
+the latter part of his journey a kind of fig-tree (_Ficus platypoda_)
+was occasionally met with, producing an agreeable fruit about the size
+of a bullet. Such a discovery in the wilds of Australia is nothing short
+of a marvel. Nature has reserved few such favours for this country. Yet
+still better fortune was at hand. It became evident, first by faint and
+then by very plain indications, that they were coming on the tracks of
+Europeans. Only a short time previously Mr. Giles and Mr. Gosse had
+separately been out in these parts, but had to return for want of water.
+Still, a marked tree or an old camping-ground was an inspiring object,
+seeing they had been made by travellers who had started from the
+opposite end of the journey. Much yet remained to be done, but the
+ground was now got over with much better heart. The monotony of the
+desert-wandering had been much relieved in a manner highly creditable to
+Mr. Forrest. Here, as in all his explorations, he remembered the Sabbath
+day to keep it holy. Regularly, as the Sunday came round, divine service
+was read in the camp. Even the old habit of a good Sunday dinner was not
+forgotten. People in different circumstances might not have thought the
+cheer much to be envied; but hunger is the best sauce. If a pigeon or a
+parrot could be secured at the seasonable time it was reserved as a
+special treat for the Sunday dinner. But better things were in store.
+Perseverance had not much longer to wait for its reward. Following the
+tracks of the preceding explorers, they came on to the Marryat River,
+which led them on to the Alberga, and this clue finally conducted the
+weary wanderers to the long-desired telegraph line. The journal of the
+expedition contains the following entry for the 27th August,
+1874:--"Continued east for about twelve miles, and then E.N.E. for three
+miles, and reached the telegraph line between Adelaide and Port Darwin,
+and camped." [The 104th camp from the start.] "Long and continued cheers
+came from our little band as they beheld at last the goal to which we
+have been travelling for so long. I felt rejoiced and relieved from
+anxiety; and in reflecting on the long time of travel we had performed
+through an unknown country, almost a wilderness, felt very thankful to
+that good Providence that had guarded and guided us so safely through
+it." A well-beaten track had now been made along the telegraph line,
+which the party followed, proceeding to the south. In a day or two the
+Peak station was reached. From this point the journey to Adelaide was
+made by easy stages. Forrest's track lay a long way south of
+Warburton's, and threw a streak of light across another dark region of
+the western half of Australia. The results of the journey are thus
+summed up in the explorer's own words:--"The whole of the country, from
+the settled districts near Champion Bay to the head of the Murchison, is
+admirably suited for pastoral settlement, and in a very short time will
+be taken up and stocked; indeed, some has already been occupied. From
+the head of the Murchison to the 129th meridian, the boundary of our
+colony, I do not think will ever be settled. Of course, there are many
+grassy patches, such as at Windich Springs, the Weld Springs, all round
+Mount Moore, and other places; but they are so isolated, and of such
+extent, that it would never pay to take stock to them. The general
+character of this immense tract is a gently undulating spinifex
+desert--_Festuca (Triodia) irritans_, the spinifex of the desert
+explorers, but not the spinifex of science. It is lightly wooded ... and
+there is a great absence of any large timber."
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XVII.
+
+MR. ERNEST GILE'S EXPLORATIONS IN CENTRAL AND WESTERN AUSTRALIA.
+
+
+Mr. Ernest Giles is a native of Bristol, in England. As soon as his
+education was finished he rejoined his father and family, who had
+preceded him to Australia. He very early developed a passion for
+exploration, and gained valuable experience in connection with various
+expeditions which he served in a subordinate capacity. His own fame as
+an explorer rests securely on the following enterprises:--
+
+
+I.
+
+Shortly after the construction of the Port Darwin telegraph, Mr. Giles
+made a persevering attempt to lead a small party from Chambers's Pillar
+to the sources of the Murchison River. The expenses were provided partly
+by himself and partly by Baron Von Mueller, of Melbourne. The party
+consisted of Messrs. Giles, Carmichael, and A. Robinson, with fifteen
+horses and one dog. The start was made about the middle of August, 1872.
+For the early part of the journey the River Finke was followed, but it
+led them into a rugged, mountainous country, in which travelling was
+difficult. The scenery was often charming, as one glen after another was
+explored. Palm-Tree Glen, in particular, called forth unceasing
+admiration on account of the multitude of wild flowers which were "born
+to blush unseen and waste their sweetness on the desert air." "I
+collected to-day," says Mr. Giles, "and during the other days since we
+have been in this glen, a number of most beautiful flowers, which grow
+in profusion in this otherwise desolate glen. I am literally surrounded
+by fair flowers of many a changing hue. Why Nature should scatter such
+floral gems in such a sterile region is difficult to understand; but
+such a variety of lovely flowers of every colour and perfume I have
+never met with previously. They alone would have induced me to name this
+the Glen of Flowers, but having found in it also so many of the stately
+palm-trees, I have called it the Glen of Palms." During a further
+advance among the outlying spurs of the M'Donnell Ranges, the Finke was
+left, or lost, and laborious search had often to be made for water. The
+mountains were high, but no creek was found with a longer course than
+twelve miles. The peaks often assumed strange and fantastic shapes, as
+the explorers have indicated by such names as Mount Peculiar, Haast's
+Bluff, &c. The following quotation from the journal shows how they were
+straitened at this time through want of water. After finding a little in
+the hollow of a rock, just sufficient to save life, Mr. Giles says:--"It
+was necessary to try to discover more water if possible, so, after
+breakfast, I walked away, but, after travelling up gullies and gorges,
+hills and valleys, I had to return quite unsuccessful, and I can only
+conclude that this water was permitted by a kind Providence to remain
+here in this lovely spot for my especial benefit.... I have, in
+gratitude, called it Mount Udor, as being the only one in this region
+where a drop of that requisite element was to be obtained. And when I
+left the udor had departed also." This incident occurred at the
+twenty-first camp from Chambers's Pillar. From this point a persevering,
+but unsuccessful, effort was made to strike out west in the direction of
+a chain named Ehrenberg's Mountain. Want of water again forced the party
+back on Mount Udor. A more southerly route led to the important
+discovery of a great saltwater lake, which was called Amadeus, after the
+then King of Spain, son of Victor Emanuel. Beyond this long, but
+comparatively narrow, sheet of water, a conspicuous mountain, named
+Olga, specially attracted the attention of Mr. Giles, who was anxious to
+reach it by rounding the lake. But this labour was prevented by an
+incident which, unhappily, caused the purpose of the expedition to
+collapse. Robinson had been seized with homesickness, and the infection
+reached Carmichael, who obstinately refused to proceed any further.
+Giles tried the effect of moral suasion, which was the only weapon
+available for a volunteer. He pleaded the large supply of provisions,
+the importance of the enterprise, and the ignominy of turning back. But
+it was to no purpose. Carmichael had made up his mind and would listen
+to no arguments. Giles was now compelled to direct his march back to
+the telegraph line, "a baffled and beaten man." During this inglorious
+retreat the course lay by the Peterman, the Palmer, and the Finke
+rivers, and by this route the original camp No. 1 was reached. Here is
+the conclusion of the whole matter in Mr. Giles's own words:--"My
+expedition was over. I had failed in my object (to penetrate to the
+sources of the Murchison River) certainly, but not through any fault of
+mine, as I think any impartial reader of my journal will admit.... We
+travelled to the eastward along the course of the River Finke
+(homeward), and passed a few miles to the south of Chambers's Pillar,
+which had been my starting-point. I had left it but twelve weeks and
+four days to the time I re-sighted it, and during that interval I had
+traversed and laid down about a thousand miles of country. My expedition
+thus early ends. Had I been fortunate enough to have fallen upon a good,
+or even fair, line of country, the distance I actually travelled would
+have taken me across the continent."
+
+
+II.
+
+A second attempt was made by the same explorer shortly after his return
+from the first. The funds being provided by the liberality of the
+Victorian colonists, a light party, consisting of Messrs. Giles,
+Tietkens, Gibson, and Andrews, with twenty-four horses, were despatched
+for the purpose of crossing the western half of Australia. They left the
+telegraph road at the junction of the Stevenson and Alberga creeks on
+the 4th of August, 1873. The latter was followed for some distance
+westward, after which, by a short cross-country route to the north, the
+Hamilton River was reached, and taken as a guide so far as was
+practicable. This journey led to the discovery of four remarkable
+mountain-chains. The first of these was named Anthony Range. From one of
+the summits they beheld a sea of mountains, countless in number, many of
+which presented the most comically fantastic shapes and forms which the
+imagination can conceive. Ayer's Range was next reached, and an equally
+commanding view obtained from one of its heights. The next was the
+Musgrave Range, occupying a central position in a far-reaching expanse
+of good country. Here the natives were encountered in a hostile
+attitude, but were beaten off by the superior arms of four white men.
+After a journey of 400 miles they reached Mt. Olga, which had been
+sighted on the former expedition. In this neighbourhood also, they found
+the tracks of Mr. Gosse, a contemporary explorer, which led to a
+deviation from the proposed route. In Cavanagh's Range a depôt was
+established, as a basis for tentative explorations in a forbidding tract
+of country. About 110 miles from this centre they made a welcome
+discovery of a waterfall of 150 feet, sending forth a musical roar as it
+fell, and scattering around a plentiful shower of spray. This gladdening
+apparition in the desert received the name of the Alice Falls. The
+country in the immediate neighbourhood was also well grassed. This
+place has doubtless a future in store for it. Turning more to the north,
+in the direction of a broken country, another splendid range, named the
+Rawlinson, was discovered. It extended to 60 miles in length, with a
+breadth of five or six. The peaks were remarkably pointed and jagged.
+From this position an attempt was made to strike out in a north-westerly
+direction, but bad fortune compelled them to return after Mt.
+Destruction had been reached. Four of the horses had been lost in a
+journey of ninety miles; water was not to be found; the natives were
+troublesome; and the eye could discern nothing ahead but spinifex desert
+and rolling sand-hills. A return to the Rawlinson Range was, therefore,
+imperative. Having again rested for a little, another determined effort
+was made to force a passage due west across the interior and strike the
+outposts of settlement in Western Australia. All was done that man could
+do, but impossibilities are not to be accomplished. The western flanks
+of the Rawlinson Range faded away into a barren and waterless desert.
+Giles and Gibson had, as a gigantic effort of perseverance, penetrated
+98 miles into this inhospitable waste. But no further could they go.
+Here, on the 23rd of April, the utmost bourne of the expedition was
+reached. One of the two horses here knocked up and died. This was the
+last time Gibson was seen. Giles did his utmost to bring him help, but
+he was never found. His bones lie somewhere in that awful wilderness,
+which to this day bears his name. When the furthest point was reached
+better fortune seemed to loom in the distance. Another range of lofty
+mountains was descried athwart the western horizon, which he called the
+Alfred and Marie, after the Duke and Duchess of Edinburgh. They might as
+well have been in the moon so far as Mr. Giles was concerned in his now
+pitiable plight. His own reflections were deplorably bitter:--"The hills
+bounding the western horizon were between thirty and forty miles away,
+and it was with extreme regret that I was compelled to relinquish a
+further attempt to reach them. Oh, how ardently I longed for a camel;
+how ardently I gazed upon the scene! At this moment I would even my
+jewel eternal have sold for power to span that gulf that lay between.
+But it could not be; situated as I was, I was compelled to retreat, and
+the sooner the better." Such was his destiny. After almost twelve
+months' wanderings in the wilderness, three of the four explorers
+escaped with their lives, and reached the central telegraph line on the
+13th of July.
+
+
+III.
+
+Such battling with relentless fortune would have extinguished the spirit
+of adventure in most men. In the case of Mr. Giles it fanned it into a
+brighter flame. Refusing to be baffled, his noble perseverance was at
+length rewarded with a double journey across the western half of the
+continent. This expedition was fitted out by Sir Thomas Elder, of
+Adelaide, who supplied him with nineteen camels and provisions for
+eighteen months. The party consisted of Messrs. Giles, Tietkens, Young,
+A. Ross, P. Nicholls, Selah (an Afghan), and a black boy. The route
+proposed was from Youldah to Perth, and the start was made on the 27th
+July, 1875. This, though a successful, was a very trying journey. They
+crossed desert after desert for a distance of 1,500 miles. On one
+occasion they were reduced to the last extremity of thirst, and saved
+from perishing by the happy discovery of a spring in the Great Victoria
+Desert, 600 miles from the out-settlements of Western Australia. They
+reached Perth on the 10th November, having travelled a distance of 2,575
+miles in about five months. The following is Mr. Giles's summary of the
+journey:--"The expedition has been successful, yet the country traversed
+for more than a thousand miles in a straight line was simply an
+undulating bed of dense scrub, except between the 125th and 127th
+meridians, the latitude being nearly the 30th parallel. Here an arm of
+the Great Southern Plain ran up and crossed our track, which, though
+grassy, was quite waterless. The waters were, indeed, few and far
+between throughout. On one occasion, a stretch of desert was encountered
+in which no water was obtainable for 325 miles, which only the
+marvellous sustaining powers of Mr. Elder's all-enduring beasts enabled
+us to cross. The next desert was only 180 miles to a mass of granite,
+where I saw natives for the first time on the expedition. They attacked
+us there, but we managed to drive them off. Mount Churchman was now only
+160 miles distant, and we found water again before reaching it. We
+struck in at Toora, an out-station, where the shepherd was very
+hospitable. At other homesteads we were most kindly welcomed." By
+another journey, in a reverse direction, across the western interior,
+Mr. Giles returned to the central telegraph, which for so long had
+formed his base of operations. Leaving Perth on the 13th of January,
+1876, he pushed north, and struck the Ashburton River, thence passed
+through 150 miles of desert, and from the opposite side reached the
+Alfred and Marie Range, from which he had been so piteously thrust back
+in 1873. He soon after reached the Rawlinson Range, which he had
+discovered on that same expedition. Being now in a known country, he
+passed safely through it, and reached the Peak telegraph station on the
+23rd of August, 1876. His journey thence to Adelaide was ordinary travel
+in the Australian bush.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XVIII.
+
+OTHER EXPLORERS IN WESTERN AUSTRALIA.--CONCLUSION.
+
+
+There still remain a considerable number of the explorers of Western
+Australia, whose achievements, though inferior to the foregoing, would
+have called for particular notice had this been an exhaustive work. A
+very brief outline of the journeys of the most prominent is all that can
+be attempted here. We shall begin with Captain, afterwards Sir George,
+Grey, so well known in later times as a New Zealand statesman. From 1837
+to 1840 he was occupied with two expeditions for the exploration of the
+country lying between the coast and the first range. Both journeys were
+exceedingly hazardous--none more so in this department of history.
+During the first Prince Regent's River was explored; but the most
+important result was the discovery of the River Glenelg, which was
+described as one of the finest in Australia. The second expedition was
+directed to Shark's Bay, which was reached in February, 1839. The most
+important discovery during this journey was the River Gascoyne. The
+expedition was soon overtaken by terrible misfortunes, which compelled
+the party to make for Swan River by the quickest route. The first
+attempt was made in a small boat, which got no further than Gantheaume
+Bay, where it was dashed to pieces on the beach. To save their lives
+they had now to walk on foot along an inhospitable coast for 300 miles,
+with no more provisions than twenty pounds of flour and one pound of
+pork to each man. Grey struggled along and gave a heroic example to the
+men under his charge. When he arrived at Perth he looked like a spectre,
+and his most intimate friends did not know him. He has himself told us
+what was the secret of his moral strength:--"It may be asked," he said,
+"if, during such a trying period, I did not seek from religion that
+consolation which it is sure to afford. My answer is, yes; and I further
+feel assured that but for the support I derived from prayer and frequent
+perusal of the Scriptures, I should never have been able to have borne
+myself in such a manner as to have maintained discipline and confidence
+among the rest of the party; nor in my sufferings did I ever lose the
+consolation derived from a firm reliance upon the goodness of
+Providence. It is only those who go forth into perils and dangers,
+amidst which human foresight and strength can but little avail, and who
+find themselves day after day protected by an unseen influence, and ever
+and anon snatched from the very jaws of destruction by a power which is
+not of this world, who can at all estimate the knowledge of one's own
+weakness and littleness, and the firm reliance and trust upon the
+goodness of the Creator which the human heart is capable of feeling."
+
+The next in order is Mr. J. S. Roe, Surveyor-General of Western
+Australia. With a party of six men, eleven horses, and four months'
+provisions, he started from York in September, 1848, for the southern
+part of the colony. Leaving the last stations of the River Avon, he went
+S. 1/2 S. in a direction which had not yet been explored. In a short
+time he got into a poor country, which contained the heads of the Avon,
+the Williams, the Arthur, and other rivers. In 45 miles further he came
+to the Pallinup River, the last water which had been crossed by Eyre on
+his journey along the Great Bight. He followed it to the neighbourhood
+of Cape Riche, the latter part of this stage being through a
+well-grassed country. Here a squatting station was found, and a
+much-needed rest obtained. The next effort was to make the Bremer Range.
+In the intervening part, a river, the Jeeramungup, was discovered in a
+good tract of country, which was again succeeded by poor land. The
+Bremer Range was reached by the 3rd November. There was a hard journey
+thence to the Russell Range, which was near Eyre's country, and of the
+same description. The coast was reached opposite the Recherche
+Archipelago. Roe had now travelled 1,000 miles from Swan River, and
+found it necessary to return, and in doing so kept very much to Eyre's
+track as far as Cape Riche. The most important result of this journey
+was the discovery of several seams of coal. The return to Perth was made
+by way of the Pallinup River. The party had been absent 149 days, and
+travelled 1,800 miles.
+
+The third explorer who shall be briefly noticed is Mr. R. Austin, who
+was Assistant Surveyor-General. He was despatched by the Government to
+search for gold in the country north and east of the settled districts.
+The party consisted of ten men, twenty-seven horses, and 120 days'
+provisions. By the 10th of July, 1854, they had left the head of Swan
+River, and entered on a wretchedly poor country, in which all the bushes
+were dead. Another fifty miles' travel brought them to a table-land with
+some high mountains, the most conspicuous of which received the name of
+Mt. Kenneth. Soon after a severe mishap befell the expedition. The
+horses having eaten a poisonous plant, twenty-four died within a few
+hours, leaving the explorers in a very helpless condition. They pushed
+on, nevertheless, and displayed an admirable perseverance. On the 24th
+of August they reached a magnetic hill, which was called Mt. Magnet, and
+returned for rest to Recruit Flat. The country next traversed lay
+between the Great Salt Lake and West Mt. Magnet, dry, rough, and stony
+throughout. One curious discovery was a cave with life-like figures of
+animals drawn by the aborigines. Some similar exhibitions of savage art
+had previously been discovered by other explorers in the north and west.
+The party came again to poisonous bushes, and the horses had to be
+watched night and day. Thence, taking a westward course, they got within
+fifty miles of Shark's Bay, when want of food compelled them to retreat
+to the Geraldine mines on the Murchison River. Here the party broke up,
+some returning to Perth by sea and the rest overland. The expedition
+failed in its principal object; nor was it in other respects much of a
+success.
+
+It would be unpardonable to close this list without mention of Mr. F. T.
+Gregory's services in the exploration of West Australia. In April, 1858,
+he led an expedition from the Geraldine mines to examine the country
+between the Gascoyne River and Mt. Murchison. This effort was attended
+with much success. At least a million acres of good land were
+discovered--quite a Godsend for this colony, which is so rich in
+deserts. The principal places discovered and named were Mt. Nairn,
+Lockyer Range, Lyons River, the Alma, and Mt. Hall.
+
+*       *       *       *       *
+
+It is but right to add that the exploration of the interior has been
+largely indebted to private enterprise, of which there is no particular
+record. The pioneer squatters, in search of "fresh fields and pastures
+new," have not been afraid to invade unknown territories, nor have they
+gone without their reward. When a fine patch of country has been
+discovered they have usually been quite willing to sacrifice their merit
+as explorers to the caresses of private fortune, being mindful, perhaps,
+of the old proverb which tells us "the crow would have more to eat if he
+were less noisy over his food." The same cause has been helped on, also,
+by the search for gold, than which nothing will entice man further from
+home, or collect them in greater crowds. In this way much available
+country has lately been opened up in the Kimberley district of Western
+Australia, and the process is still going on, with many promising
+prospects. It is extremely probable that this northern region will soon
+be reckoned one of that colony's most valuable possessions, both in the
+squatting and the mining interests.
+
+As the combined result of all the foregoing agencies, Australia has
+virtually ceased to be an unknown land by the close of the first century
+of our history. Even the great desert of Western Australia, real or
+supposed, has been crossed again and again, while lesser enterprises,
+issuing from all sides, have carried the fringe of the known territory
+further and further inland. Even yet the spirit of exploration keeps
+awake, and refuses to rest so long as a patch of the interior remains to
+be examined. While these sheets are passing through the press an
+exploring party, supported again by Adelaide, are preparing for the
+interior, in order to wrest from its grasp such secrets as it may yet
+retain.
+
+It is pleasing to observe how a better acquaintance with Australia, both
+in the way of discovery and settlement, is surely leading on to the
+belief that it will yet be the home of a numerous population. For a long
+period it was reckoned unfit to be the habitation of civilized man,
+except along the seaboards. The want of water, and continuous deserts,
+were supposed to have placed the interior beyond the pale of
+settlement. But experience has already revealed a system of
+compensations by which this hasty judgment has come to be reversed, and
+the back country settled by a thriving population. There are deserts,
+indeed, in which one might search in vain for a blade of grass, but they
+contain many patches of nutritious shrubs, which not only keep alive,
+but even fatten, stock. Water, too, is scarce, but, by another of these
+admirable compensations, it is capable of being stored in any quantity,
+and for any length of time, without becoming putrid--an advantage
+unknown to the home countries. The rainfall, moreover, is very scant
+--perhaps not more than seven inches per annum in the far interior--but
+then the recent borings with the diamond drill have shown that an
+abundant supply may be obtained from subterranean sources. The latest
+announcement made to us, now standing on the threshold of the centennial
+year, is the most encouraging of all. By the ticking of the telegraph we
+learn that an experiment at Barcaldine, in Queensland, has brought to
+the surface of the bore a daily discharge of something approaching to
+100,000 gallons of water fit for all purposes. Experience is ever
+revealing new relations of material adaptability. There is a sympathy
+between a country and its inhabitants, which may have a deeper
+foundation than the fancy of the poet. The land and the people are the
+complements of one another. "God made the earth to be inhabited," and
+there is now no fear of Australia being an exception to the rule.
+
+
+
+
+INDEX.
+
+
+Aborigines, 67, 79, 88, 103, 106, 123, 125, 127, 128, 136, 140, 147,
+149, 150, 162, 179, 186, 191
+
+Abundance, Mt., 160, 161
+
+Adelaide, 97 River, 23, 207
+
+Albany, Port, 145, 149
+
+Albert R., 23, 182, 193
+
+Alexandrina, L., 82
+
+Alice R., 143
+
+Amadeus, L., 230
+
+Arnheim B., 18
+
+Austin, Mr. R., 240
+
+Australia, why so called, 13 Western, 97 Crossing, 209, 210 Centre of,
+197, 201
+
+_Australis, Calamus_, 146
+
+
+Balonne R., 138
+
+Barcoo R., 95, 143
+
+Bass's Discoveries, 6-19 Strait, 11, 12
+
+Bathurst, Plains of, 30, 67-70 Laid out, 36
+
+Batman, John, 126
+
+Baudin, 15
+
+Belyando R., 142
+
+Bight, Great Australian, 99-101, 221
+
+Blacks--_see_ Aborigines
+
+Blaxland, Gregory, 28
+
+Blue Mts., 25-33 Unsuccessful attempt to cross, 25-27 Crossed, 28-33
+
+Bogan R., 71, 119-121
+
+Botany B., 1
+
+Bottle Trees, 139
+
+Bourke, Fort, 121
+
+Bridge, St. George's, 138
+
+Brisbane R., 57
+
+Broken B., 5
+
+Burdekin R., 166
+
+Burke, R. O'Hara, 168 and Wills, 169-181
+
+Byng, Mt., 134
+
+
+Camels, 169, 213, 215, 218
+
+Campaspe R., 134
+
+Carpentaria, 135, 193 Gulf of, 18, 173, 189
+
+Castlereagh R., 42, 73
+
+Condamine R., 154
+
+Clark, George, _alias_ "George the Barber," 111
+
+Coal, Discovery of, 239
+
+Cogoon R., 139
+
+Convicts, 135
+
+Cook, Capt., 1-3
+
+Cooper's Ck., 93
+
+Creek, Chambers's, 199 Attack, 202
+
+Cunningham, Allan, 53-65 Richard, 119-120 Gap, 63
+
+Curtis B., 17
+
+
+Danger Point, 2
+
+Darling Downs, 60-61 R., 71, 72, 80, 122, 137
+
+Darwin, Port, 209
+
+Dawson R., 154
+
+Depôt Glen, 87
+
+Desert, Gibson's, 233-234
+
+Disappointment, Mt., 51
+
+Droughts, 73, 74, 87
+
+
+Eden, a new, 130
+
+Encounter Bay, 15
+
+_Endeavour_, ship, 1, 2 R., 2
+
+Essington, Port, 221
+
+Eucla, Port, 221
+
+Euryalean Scrub, 39
+
+Evans, Surveyor, 34-36
+
+Eyre, E. J., 85, 96-119 Creek, 90
+
+
+Falls, Alice, 232
+
+Fawkner, J. P., 126
+
+Farmer's Ck., 32
+
+Finke, Mt., 196, 197
+
+Fish R., 35
+
+Fitzmaurice R., 23, 164
+
+Fitzroy Downs, 139, 159
+
+Fleet, First, 4
+
+Flinders' Discoveries, 6-19 R., 22, 23, 191, 193
+
+Floods, Sudden, 137
+
+Forrest, Hon. John, 219-228
+
+Foxes, Flying, 156
+
+
+Garden, Sydney Botanic, 63-64
+
+George's R., 6
+
+Giles, Ernest, 228-276
+
+Gipps, Sir George, 153
+
+Gosse, Mr., 225
+
+Glenelg R., 132
+
+Grampians, 132
+
+Gregory, A. C., 163-166
+
+Grey, Sir George, 237, 238
+
+
+Hacking, Port, 7
+
+Harris, Mt., 69
+
+Hawkesbury R., 5
+
+Hely, Hovenden, 161, 162
+
+Henty, Edward, 125, 133
+
+Hicks, Point, 1
+
+Hastings R., 43
+
+Hopeless, Mt., 177
+
+Horses Poisoned, 240
+
+Hovell, Capt., 47-52
+
+Howitt, Alfred, 183-185
+
+Hume, Hamilton, 46-52
+
+
+Illawarra, 7
+
+Iramoo Downs, 52
+
+Isaacs, R., 155
+
+
+Jackson, Port, 2
+
+Jervis B., 8
+
+
+Kangaroo Island, 14 Grass, 129 Rats, 155
+
+Karaula R., 116
+
+Kennedy, E. B., 135, 139, 144, 151
+
+Kimberley, 242
+
+Kindur R., 112
+
+King, Governor, 16 Admiral, 19-23 Explorer, 171 Found with the blacks,
+184
+
+Kites, Plague of, 155
+
+Kyte, Ambrose, 167
+
+
+Lachlan R., 35, 38-40 Swamps, 39
+
+Lakes, 131, 132, 185, 186
+
+Landsborough, 182, 192, 193
+
+Lang, Mt., 155
+
+Lawson, William, 28
+
+Leeuwin, Cape, 14
+
+Leichhardt, 152-162, 220, 221
+
+Liverpool Plains, 43
+
+Loddon R., 129
+
+Logan R., 61
+
+Lynd R., 155
+
+
+Macedon, Mt., 134
+
+Mackenzie R., 154
+
+Macquarie R., 35, 41, 42 Port, 43 Swamps, 41, 42, 70
+
+Manning R., 44
+
+Maranoa R., 139
+
+Massacre, L., 186
+
+M'Kinlay, John, 182, 185-189
+
+Melbourne, 16
+
+Menindie, 169
+
+Mirage, 196
+
+Mitchell, Sir Thomas, 80, 110-143
+
+Moreton B., 154
+
+Mosquitoes, 207
+
+Murchison R., 224
+
+Murrumbidgee R., 48, 75
+
+Murray R., 50, 77-84, 128, 134
+
+
+Namoi R., 43, 115
+
+Nardoo, 178, 186
+
+New South Wales, why so called, 3 Foundation of, 4
+
+Nive R., 141
+
+Nivelle R., 141
+
+Nogoa R., 141
+
+Norman R., 190, 191 Captain, 182, 191
+
+
+Oakover R., 215
+
+Overlanding, 96
+
+Oxley, John, 37-44, 69 His Journal, 38 His unfortunate prediction, 45
+
+
+Palms, Glen of, 229
+
+Pandora's Pass, 56
+
+Petrel, Sooty, 10
+
+Pillar, Chambers's, 199
+
+Phillip, Port, 16
+
+Plant, Poisonous, 240
+
+Portland B., 133
+
+Promise, Plains of, 23
+
+
+Rawlinson Range, 233
+
+Reef, Great Barrier, 17
+
+Religion, Powerful support of, 238
+
+Roe, J. S., 238, 239
+
+Roper R., 206, 207
+
+Rossiter B., 107
+
+Rufus R., why so called, 82
+
+
+Saltbush, 136, 137
+
+Sea, Inland, supposed existence of, 42, 201
+
+Seaview, Mt., 43
+
+Shoalhaven, 8
+
+Snowy Mts., 49
+
+Soil, Poor, accounted for, 81
+
+Sound, King George's, 107
+
+"Spring" Country, 198
+
+Squatters, Pioneer, 136, 159
+
+Stapylton, L., 127
+
+Stephens, Port, 44
+
+Stokes, Capt., 23
+
+Stony Desert, 90, 93, 94, 188
+
+Strzelecki's Ck., 93
+
+Stuart, John M'Douall, 194-209 Central Mt., 201
+
+Sturt, Capt., 66-95, 166 Ck., 164 Plains, 204
+
+Sunday Services, 226 Dinner, 226
+
+Sydney Harbour, 4
+
+
+Telegraph, Transcontinental, 209
+
+Termination, L., 164
+
+Territory, Northern, 209
+
+Torrens, L., 98, 99, 195
+
+Transportation, 3
+
+Tumut R., 49
+
+Twofold B., 9
+
+
+Van Diemen's Land (Tasmania) circumnavigated, 10-12
+
+Victoria, 125-135 R., 23, 143, 163, 164, 202
+
+
+Walker, Frederick, 182, 190-192
+
+Warrego R., 141
+
+Warburton, Colonel, 210-218
+
+Warning, Mt., 2
+
+Water, How found, 102, 103 Searching for, 213 Subterranean, 243 Caught
+during shower by tarpaulin, 213
+
+Weld, Governor, 224 Springs, 224
+
+Wellington Valley, 40
+
+Wells, Native, 213
+
+Wentworth, W. C., 28
+
+Western Port, 9
+
+Wickham, Capt., 23
+
+William, Mt., 131
+
+Wills, W., 168, 169
+
+Wimmera R., 131
+
+
+Yass Plains, 47
+
+York, Cape, 145
+
+
+George Robertson and Co., Printers, Melbourne and Sydney.
+
+
+
+
+
+End of Project Gutenberg's The Australian Explorers, by George Grimm
+
+*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 41270 ***